UCLA MAP LIBRARY Vertical File G (fiZl-lti ....y,...i...it^^ii:r.. Subj Pub! L:li!i^ Scale 1:....^2. Year ' ^ T^ A: A; ■ 1 9 7 1 1 U.VELLEirS HANDBOOK NAPLES m ENVIRONS {^\ A«#c/4^ ^ COOK'S HANDBOOK TO NAPLES AND ENVIRONS. WITH MAP AND PLAN. LONDON : THOS. COOK & SON, LUDCiATE CIRCUS, E.C.4- SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, HAMILTON, KHNT & CO., LTD, FLORKNCK: lo. VIA TORNABUONI. VENICE: PIAZZA DEI LEONCINI, PIAZZA SAN MARCO. ,,^,.„, \ PIAZZA ESEDRA 5.1. R(nrK (22). KUMl-,: I jjj^ PIAZZA 1)1 Si>A(;XA. MILAN : 7, VIA A. .MANZONI. NAPLES: CALLERIA VITToRIA, VIA CHIATAMONE, N.4. STRESA : 28, VIALl'. UMliERTO I (Summer onlv). SAN REMO: VIA VITTORIO EMANUEl,!': (Winter only). C.ENOA: VIA AKSENALE DI TERRA (PIAZZA ACQUAVERDE). THOS. COOK & SON'S OFFICES IN ITALY. 2034/1^/21.11. T922 Cook's Travellers' Handbooks Ca/i be obtained Ihroitgh any oj their OJffu es and Ai^encies at the folloiving; net pi ■ices. 6 d. Algeria and Tunisia Bt'lgium and Ardennes . . 6 Egypt and the Sudan .., 20 Florence ^ Holland 2 6 Italy, Northern TO 6 Italy, Southern (including Rome and ' Sicily) . . / 10 6 London 2 6 Londres (in French) ... .... 2 Naples 2 6 Normandy and Brittany 6 Norway and Denmark 3 6 Palestine and Syria 10 6 do. (Lower Palestine Section) 3 6 do. (Cialilee and Syria Section) 2 6 P;u-is 2 6 Rhine and Black Forest 3 6 Riviera and Pyrenees ... 5 Rome ... 2 6 Spain ... 1 2 6 Sweden ... 3 6 Switzerland 6 X'enice ... ... ... ... 2 URL HOTELS IN NAPLES AM) ENVIRONS. Notice, — Oivinn to the unsettled conditions of hotel charges due to the general increase in the cost of everything pertaining to hotel life, the coupon rates formerly shoivn in these paftes have been temporarily withdraivn. Particulars of the rates ruling at the moment may be obtained at any of uur Offices. JCST as COOK'.S luteriiatioual Travelling Tickets enable tlie tourist to provide himself before starting with the necessary tickets for his round, and to know the exact cost of the transit portion of his tour, so Cook's Hotel Coupons enable him to estimate to within a fraction the hotel expenses of the journey. There are now si.x distinct series in operation on the Continent. The ('oupons are issued bound with a booklet giving a complete list of the hotels at which they are available, and also full details of any exceptional arrangements that may be in force. Series A provides for Bedroom, Lights and Attendance, Plain Breakfast and Dinner at Table d'Hote. Series B provides f(jr Meat Brcakja^t, Dinner at Table d'Hote, Bedroom, Lights and Attendance . Series C i)r()vides for Bedroom, Lights and Attendance, Plain Breakfast, Lnnch at Table d'Hote (where customarj) and Dinner at Table d'Hote. Series V ;incl W also provide for full board, but at a superior class of hotel to that of Series C. Series R also provides for full board, but at Hotels of the Second-class. Series A, B and C. Amalfi — Hotel Cappucini. An.acapri — Hotel Eden Mi^Iaro. Capri — Hotel (^uisisana. ,, Hotel Schweizerhof. „ Hotel Splendide. Cav.a DEI TikKKNi (near Salerno) — Hotel de l.ondres. N.Ai'i.KS - Parker Hotel. „ Hotel de Lend res. ,, Hotel Continental. ,, Central Station lUiffet .(meals only). Pompeii — Hotel Suisse. SoRR i:\TO — Hotel Tramontano. Series V. Naples — Bertolini's I'alace Hotel. Naples — {continued). Series W. Naples — Hotel Royal. „ Grand Hotel du \'esuve. Series R. Amalfi — Hotel de la Lune. „ Hotel Marine Riviere. Anacapri — Paradiso Hotel. Capri — Hotel Bristol. Caserta — Hotel Victoria. Naples — Hotel and Pension de la Rivieri. ,, Hotel Metropole. Sorrento — Hotel de la Syrene. „ Hotel de Londres. Valle di Pompei — Hotel du Sanctuaire. NAPLES. Population, about 900,000. Italian, Napoli. French, Naples. [Hotels — see p. iii.] Railway Stations. — For all the lines there is only one railway station, situated at the east end of the town, except The Cumana Railway, a short line starting from Monte Santo {see p. 3) for Bagiioli, Fozzuoli, Baia, Torregaveta, etc., in correspondence with the steamers for the islands of Pro(ida and Ischia ; (the first station in the Corso Vittorio Emanuele is very convenient) and the Ottaiano-Circum- vesuviana Railway, starting from the Corso Garibaldi, connecting at Pugliano with Thos. Cook & Son's Vesuvius electric railway and the line to Pompeii {see p. 85). Cook's Office. — Galleria Vittoria, Via Chiatamone. Post Office. — Palazzo Gravina, Strada di Monteoliveto {see p. 56) ; open 8 a.m to 8 p.m. Branch Office at Cook's Office {see above) and in other parts of the city. Telegraph Office. — Palazzo Gravina; open day and night. Branch office at Cook's Office (as above). British Consulate General. — Via dei Mille, 40. U.S. Consulate. — Via Cuma a S. Lucia. English Dentist. — Dr. Atkinson, Via Roma, 12. English Chemists. — Roberts & Co., Via Vittoria ; Watson, Via Domenico Morelli ; Kernot, Strada San Carlo, 2. English Church. — Strada San Pasquale a Chiaia, Services : On Sundays, 1 1 a.m. and 5 p.m. Scotch Presbyterian Church. — Vico Cappella Vecchia, 5. Service on Sundays, 11 a.m. and 3.30 p.m. Baptist Church. — Strada Foria, 175. Service on Sun- days, II a.m. Wesleyan Methodist Church. — Vico S. Anna dL Palazzo. Service on Sundays, 1 1 a.m. 2 NAPLES. Evangfelical Schools. — Vico Cappella Vecchia, 5. English and Foreign Booksellers. — Detken & Rocholl, l^iazza del Plebiscito, Michaelsen, opposite Cook's Office. Funicular Railways {see p. 3). Steamers. — The Orient Line Steamers call outward and homeward about twice monthly. The Cunard Line about once a month to and from Gibraltar to New York. The White Star Line about once monthly to and from Gibraltar to Boston. The Fabre Line about twice a month to and from Marseilles and to and from New York. Lloyd Sabaudo about once a month to and from New York and also some irregular sailings to the Black Sea. Navigazione Generale Italiana about three times a month to and from New York. Compania Tras- atlantica about once a month to and from New York. Cosulich Line about monthly to and from New York and to and from Trieste. Messageries Maritimes, irregular sailings to Con- stantinople. Roumanian Line fortnightly to and from the Black Sea. Adria Line fortnightly to and from the Black Sea. Societa Italiana dei Servizi Marittimi, twice a month to Egypt, Palestine and Syria ; once a month to the Black Sea. Marittima Italiana, once a month to Alexandria, Palestine and Syria ; once a month to Bombay and once to Durban. Union Castle Line about monthly to Durban and Cape Town. Navigazione Ferrovie dello Stato, daily at 8 p.m. for Palermo and weekly on Mondays at 8 p.m. for Tunis. The local steamers, now belonging to the Italian Govern- ment, start daily from S. Lucia for Sorrento, Capri and the Blue Grotto ; for Procida, Ischia and Casamicciola daily (from Immacolatella) ; for Vico, Meta, Sorrento, Massa and Capri daily (from Imfnacolatella) ; for Capri-Amalfi-Salerno twice a week (from Immacolatelhi). Boats. — Fare from the mail steamer to the Custom House, 2 fr. 50 c, including luggage ; to local steamers, i fr. There is no fixed tariff for pleasure boats. Prices vary according to the season ; a bargain must therefore be made beforehand. Electric Tramways (till midnight.) — Fare 50 c, any distance until 10 p.m., from which hour a supplement of 20 c. is charged. On holidays 70 c. plus 20 c. after 10 p.m. The cars stop regularly at the chief stations (^'' Sezione''), and also, when required, at the points indicated by signboards with the inscription " Fermata." Tramways run in all directions, and from one end of Naples ;to the other. TRAMWAY ROUTES. Routes. 1. Posilipo and Piazza Trinita Maggiore. 2. Capo di Posilipo and Piazza Trinita Maggiore. 3. Piazza Carlo, Terzo and Mergellina. 4. Piazza Bellini, Marina and La Torretta. 5. Rione Amedeo and Strada de Tribunali. 6. La Torretta, Corso Vittorio Emanuele and Piazza Dante. 7. Piazza Dante, Vomero and San Martino. 9. Piazza Dante, Strada Confalone and Arenella. 10. Piazza San Ferdinando and Strada Fontanelle. 11. Piazza San Ferdinando, Marina and Piazza Bellini. 12. Largo Montesanto, Post Office and Rione del Vasto. 14. Piazza Dante, Strada Foria and Ponti Rossi. 16. Piazza del Municipio, Rione del V^asto and Poggioreale. 17. Ponte delle Sanita and Granili. 18. Vittoria and Capodimonte (Tondo). 19. Rione Amedeo and Montesanto. 20. Santa Caterina and Via Tasso. 29. Largo Montesanto and Tribunali. There are also the Aversa-Cairano and the Nola-Baiano Railways. The stations of both these are close together near the Porta Capuana, not far from the Central Station. Funicolare al Vomero. — From the Parco Margherita, every 15 minutes, with station in the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, to the top of the Vomero. Fares :— ist cl., 60 c. up; 50 c. down. 2nd cl., 50 c. up ; 40 c. down. Another Funicolare has been made to the Vomero, the Upper Station of which is close by the Castle of S. Elmo ; the Lower Station is at Monte Santo next to the terminus of the Ciimana Railway^ and is reached from the centre of the Via Roma {^Toledo) through the populous Market of Pignasecca. Theatres. — The best are generally closed in summer. Prices moderate. Performances commence 8 to 9 p.m. S. Carlo, Via S. Carlo (p. 60) ... Opera. Mercadante (or Del Fondo) Strada del Molo (p. 61) ... ... ... Opera and Drama. Bellini, near the Museum (p. 61) ... Opera and Drama. Sannazaro, Via di Chiaia (p. 61) ... Comedy and Drama. Fiorentini, Strada Fiorentini (p. 61) ... Drama. Teatro Nuovo, Strada Nuova (p. 61) Comic Oi)era. B 4 NAPLES, Teatro Fenice, Via del Municipio (p. 6 1 ) ... ... ... ... Varieties. Teatro Rossini, Strada fuori Porta Medina (p. 6 1) ... ... ... Comedy & Operetta. Partenope, Piazza Cavour (p. 6i) ... Punch and Judy. Politeama, Strada Monte di Dio ... Dramas, Operettas, circus. S. Ferdinando, Strada Pontenuovo ... Popular pieces. Umberto I., Via Maio di Porto ... Drama and Operetta. Nuovo, Vico Lungo Teatro Nuovo ... Varieties. Eldorado, S. Lucia, Castel dell' Ovo... Varieties. Grand Eden, Via Guglielmo Sanfelice Varieties. Salone Margherita, Galleria Umberto I. Cinematograph. Kursaal, A^ia dei Mille ... ... Cinematograph. Restaurants, Cafes. — Restaurant Select, Via Santa Brigida. Gambrinus, Piazza San Ferdinando. Cafe and Restaurant Calzona, Galleria Umberto Primo (Concert). Restaurant Giardini d'ltalia, Via Roma. Restaurant Regina d'ltalia. Via Roma. At Posilipo, Restaurant Soglie de Frisio, where among other thing.s, good fish may be procured. Macaroni is the favourite dish of the country ; this and the celebrated Shell-fish Soup, if not served at the traveller's hotel, will be found at any of the various cafe-restaurants. Lava Ornaments, Coral Ornaments, Gloves, and Tortoise = shell are specialities of Naples, and good things to bring away as souvenirs. In making purchases in shops, it must be remembered that it is the custom of the country to ask considerably more than will be taken. It is by no means infra dig. to drive a hard bargain, and the traveller should never allow a tout to introduce him to a shop to make purchases. Festivals, Religious and National, have lost much of their former importance, but some of them are still very interesting and worth visiting. For a list of the principal Festivals, see p. 62. Cabs and Carriages are very numerous, the former on taximeter system ; prices moderate, as follows : — Private Carriages. In town — |)er day : landau or victoria, 80 fr. In country — per day: landau or victoria, 100 fr. ; plus a gratuity of 10 fr. to the driver. N.B. — Private arrangements by the week or month. TAXI-CAB PARKS. 5 Taxi = Cab Fares. One Horse, from 6 a.m. to ii p.m. within the limits of the city. Indicator starts with i 1. 20 c, and 30 c. is added to the final sum registered. Two Horses, during same hours and within same limits. Indicator starts with 2 1. 40 c, and 60 c. is added to the final sum registered. Passengers should see that the driver opens the lever at the moment of starting. Small gratuities also expected. Carriage Drives. — Visitors to Naples will do well to consult Thos. Cook & Son's Agent, Galleria Vittoria, Via Chiatamone, as to the best and most economical way of seeing Naples and its environs. Thos. Cook & Son have arranged programmes for Drives and Excursions, by which the chief attractions can be comfortably visited in seven days; or travellers with less time to spare have a choice of excursions ot one day or three days' duration. Tours in Sicily. — Cook's Conducted Tours. Visiting Messina, Taormina, Syracuse, Catania, Girgenti, and Palermo. Inclusive fares quoted on application. Private Parties of not .less than six can arrange with Thos. Cook & Son for a charming tour through Sicily, starting from and returning to Naples. On arrival at Naples, the luggage of every passenger, by land or by sea, is examined. It is best to disregard the solicitations of all touters, and proceed at once to the omnibus belonging to the hotel ; and if there is not an hotel omnibus, engage a cab (tariff sec above). In case of any misunderstand- ing, call a policeman, or if redress cannot be obtained in this way, take his and (he cabmaji's number, and then apply to the Central Bureau of the Corso Pubblico, Hotel de Ville, Piazza del Municipio (ist floor). Messrs. Thos. Cook & Son's Interpreter, in uniform, meets all trains and the principal steamers, to assist all travellers ])rovided with Cook's coupons. Climate. The climate of Naples varies from 100° Fahr. in July and August, to 32" between January and March, and is subject to extreme variations in the same day. The mean Winter 6 NAPLES. temperature (which mostly interests visitors) is about 50°, but in January, when the mountains are clad in snow, the thermo- meter at night often registers several degrees of frost. October and November are more or less rainy months ; December is generally fine ; January cold ; February milder but rainy ; March changeable ; April and part of May delightful months ; and the summer hot, with usually a morning sea breeze. There are about 120 rainy days throughout the year, a great deal of N.E. wind, and of S.E. wind called Scirocco, but snow and fogs are seldom seen. Taken altogether, the climate of Naples is healthy in winter, but visitors should be careful to wear warm clothing, to avoid chills, to observe moderation as to diet, and not to over-fatigue themselves sight-seeing, as the neglect of these precautions may induce an attack of Neapolitan fever, a mild form of typhus. The water supplied by the new waterworks, near the Palace of Capodimonte, is brought from the district of Serino, about 55 miles from Naples, and is excellent'. Historical Summary. B.C. 1000. Greek colonists founded Cumge, of which an off- shoot founded Parthenope — the older part called Palaeopolis ; the new part, Neapolis, was the origin of Naples. 480. Naples united to Rome. 29. Augustus Cccsar, Virgil, and other illustrious Romans resided here, followed by Tiberius. \.T). 54. (About.) Nero appeared on the Neapolitan stage as actor and singer. 79. Eruption of Vesuvius destroyed Pompeii. 500. Naples under Theodoric and the Goths. 536. Taken by Belisarius. 543. Reduced by famine and the walls levelled by Totila ; soon after reconquered by Narses for the Grecian emperor Justinian ; afterwards governed l)y exarchs of Ravenna, then inde- pendent till 967. Overrun by Germans under Otho. 1000. Occupied by Normans. io6i. Roger the Norman made king. 1 186. Norman Princess Constantia marries the Emperor Henry VI., and Naples is ruled by the Hohenstauffens. HISTORICAL SUMMARY. 7 1264 Ruled by the house of Anjou. 1382. Charles Durazzo. 1416. Alphonso of Arragon. Franco-Italian war for possession of Naples. Naples a province of Spain under Ferdinand the Catholic. Intolerable misery of the people. 1647. Insurrection of Masaniello. 1700. Naples passes to Austrian rule. 1735. Charles the Bourbon (Infanta of Spain) becomes King of Naples. Revival of prosperity. 175 1. Charles becomes King of Spain; his son Ferdinand, King of Naples, marries Maria Carolina. 1799. French Republican armies enter Naples. 1806. Joseph Buonaparte king. 1808. Joachim Murat king. 18 1 5. Restoration of Ferdinand. 1825. Francis I. 1830. Ferdinand II. 1858. Francis II. i860. Expulsion of the old dynasty. — Garibaldi enters Naples, which, by popular suffrage, is annexed to United Italy. 1 86 1. Victor Emmanuel II. 1878. Humbert I. 1900. Victor Emmanuel III. Naples is, perhaps, the loveliest spot in Europe. The beautiful bay, reflecting the buildings in its azure waters ; the picturesque amphitheatre formed by the verdant, villa-sprinkled hills that enclose the city ; mighty Vesuvius on the right ; the fair shores, sweeping round on the one hand by Portici and Castellamniare to Capri, and on the other by Pozzuoli and Misenum to romantic Ischia— of all this most travellers have some previous idea from description ; but the universal verdict of visitors is, that neither pen nor pencil ever gave any real conception of the surpassing loveliness of Naples and its Bay as seen from the sea. In the days of our forefathers a visit to Naples was the privilege of the few. Of those who ran through Europe for pleasure, or education, or even for business, a very small proportion ever got so far south as this. Now things are so changed that in the next generation he who has not seen Naples will hardly pretend to have travelled at all. 8 NAPLES. There are two ways of arriving at Naples — sea and land. " Land " now means railway ; and, except for a few short local lines, there is but one railway station, humorously called central. This, in accordance with the old super- stition, which regarded railways as a dangerous innovation, is situated as far as possible from the town it is supposed to serve. Moreover, it is outside the eastern boundary of the town, and most visitors take up their abode in the West End. In the front of the station a road, called Corso Garibaldi, runs right and left. The side of this road opposite the station coincides pretty nearly with the eastern boundary of the city proper. Until quite recently there were only two practicable entrances through this boundary ; and both of these led into streets so crowded and narrow that the cabmen themselves preferred to take the traveller round the outside of the town by one of two roads. The first and favourite of these is the lower road ; by this, following the Corso Garibaldi to the left, is soon seen the Porta del Carmine with its two heavy towers (one of the tw-o afore- said openings) and passing outside this, the seaside road which is the main thoroughfare between Naples and Portici is almost immediately reached. Here, turning to the right, the road lies between the sea and the old town. In the corner between the Corso Garibaldi and the seaside road is the Church of S. Maria del Carmine, the south-eastern extremity of the old Mercato, the chief scene of the revolt (1647) under Masaniello. Bulwer Lytton, in his "Zanoni," calls this the most Neapolitan quarter of the town, and this is still true, notwithstanding the trams, and the railway Une on the left which serves for goods traffic to the port. Proceeding westward, on the right, runs the long street of the Duomo. The opening at this end was cut, but a few years since, through the quarter of Pendino, an intricate nest of dens, whose gloom and squalor, especially in times of pestilence, were not less tragic in reality than in appearance. This opening was a very important detail in the great work of nisanamenio begun some years ago. The road next passes between the Port and the Custom House. The entrance, known as the Immacolatella, to the landing places for passenger ships, is followed by the large harbour for merchant ships ; a great part of the imported goods is conveyed in barges under this road into tlie pool of the Custom House, GENERAL SURVEY. 9 on the right. Opposite is a row of houses called Piliero, occupied entirely by shipbrokers and agents, insurance and banking houses of various nationalities. At the end of Piliero, in front, is the entrance to the Arsenal, to the left lies the mole with its lighthouse at the end. Taking the road to the right, the spacious square called the Piazza del Municipio is entered. Here the bustle of commercial traffic begins to abate, the roads are wide and the buildings have some pretensions to architectural elegance. On the left lies the Castel Nuovo, concealed but a few years ago by an unseemly if picturesque assemblage of small theatrical booths. The approach to the castle from the Strada San Carlo will soon be finished and a fine old portico has already been uncovered. On the right is the modest facade of the Teatro del Fondo, now called Mercadante, rich in traditions of musical art. In the middle of the square is a bronze equestrian statue of Victor Emmanuel. The broad road to the right, called Piazza Medina, leads to the Post Office, but following that to the left, and ascending by an easy slope, the north front of the Castel Nuovo is passed, then the gardens of the Royal Palace, at the gate of which are the two bronze horses presented by the Czar Nicholas. The road now narrows, passing between the classic portico of the great S. Carlo Theatre on the left, and, on the right, the main front of the new Qalleria Umberto Primo. Emerging into the Piazza 5. Ferdinando, a central pc^nt (in the sense in which Charing Cross is central m London) marks the junction between the city, or old town, and the western or fashionable quarter, in which most visitors take up their residence Before investigating the latter it will be well to complete the survey of the old town. From the Piazza S. Ferdinando runs, in a northerly direction, the main street of the town, its familiar old name Toledo being gradually replaced by its official new name of Via Roma. The Church of S. Ferdinando, on the right, from its ass(x:ia- tions, and from the funereal and commemorative solemnities of which it has so long been the scene, resisted the innovations of 1889, when the labyrinth of disreputable vicoli, nests of crime and pestilence, which lay in its rear, were swept away to make room for the great (ialleria, which has also an opening in the Via Roma. This used to be called the " noisiest street in Europe," and it only enjoys a partial respite in the cessation of lO NAPLES. wlieel traffic on Good Fridays and the preceding Thursday evening. It was also the principal scene of the almost obsolete carnival processions ; and it is still chosen for the starting-i^oint of the four-in-hands and other carriages which attend the races. The right-hand side of the Via Roma, as we turn from S. Ferdinando, nearly coincides with the eastern boundary of the old town. About the middle of its length is the Largo della Carita, in which is the statue of Baron Carlo Poerio, the patriot. Here, on the left, is the crowded quarter of Pignasecca, rife with ])opular traditions, in which are situated the terminus of the Cuniana railway, the shrine of the black Madonna worshipped by the Camorra, and a noble hospital to which are brought sufferers from accidents of various kinds, including, alas ! the too numerous cases of stabbing and wounding among the populace. On the other side of the Via Roma is an entrance to the present market. The road here begins to ascend, presently running into the Piazza Dante with a statue of the poet in the centre. On the light is the facade of the great public school of Naples, the Liceo Vittorio Emanuele, occupying what was the north-west corner of the old Merca/ello, on which have been enacted many tragic scenes of Neapolitan history. Beyond is seen the Porta Alba. Following the main road, on the right are passed various buildings dedicated to fine art exhibitions ; also the small Galleria, called after the Prince of Naples ; and, beyond this, the Museum. The broad road to the right, called Piazza Cavour, skirts the northern boundary of the old city. On the left, at the end of the gardens, is a road leading to the school of the Miracoli, for girls of noble family. On the right is the Porta S. Qennaro. At this point the Piazza Cavour terminates, and there is a choice of roads. The road straight forward is called Strada Foria ; the first to the right is the Sirada del Diionio, leading to the Cathedral. The second to the right leads to the Church of S. Giovanni a Carbonara, to the Porta Capuana, and the Castel Capuano, and thence back to the railway station by the Corso Garibaldi. This completes the circuit of the old town, the greater part of which consisted of enormous palazzi of the nobles, where they lived with their families and dependents. The palazzi were divided from each other by very narrow streets, and usually contained in their own premises spacious courtyards, as well as chapels, and sometimes even large churches. It is GENERAL SURVEY. II obvious that this arrangement gave great advantage to the nobles who owned the palazzi in feudal times in case of popular tumults. Another consequence has survived those times. The families of the servants and dependents exercised their small industries on the ground floor, just as in ihe country the peasantry crowded for protection under the walls of the castle. When, under the Bourbons, the nobles quitted their castles for the pleasures of court life they thus reinforced the naturally gregarious habits of the poor ; and this explains that strange juxtaposition of splendour with squalor that distinguishes these regions^. Any old house falling into decay was soon occupied by the surplus of the poor, and thus were formed those numerous hives of disease and crime of which we have already mentioned two or three. After the cholera of 1884 the authorities recognised the pressing necessity of two things — -an improved water supply, and new thoroughfares in the old town • of the latter the most important is that called the Corso Umberto Primo (Rettifilo), opened in 1897, which has served the double purpose of clearing out some of the worst quarters, and affording a direct com- munication between the railway and the west central district. Entering this immediately opposite the station the route lies along a wide and straight road flanked with handsome new buildings, and (branching to the left from the Piazza della Borsa) terminating in the old street of S. Giuseppe, where a slight congestion of traffic shows that something remains to be done. The road to the right leads to the General Post Ofifice, and beyond that to several objects of interest — the Churches of Sant' Anna dei Lombardi or Monte Oliveto ; S. Chiara, the Gesu Nuovo ; S. Domenico Maggiore, etc. But turning to the left we pass through the Piazza Medina with the statue of Mercadante and the Church of the Incoronata running into the Piazza del Municipio, and so again to S. I'^erdinando. This completes tlie general topography of the old town. Hitherto little has been seen of the beauties of nature, but on the other hand much of the characteristics of the motley population of Naples, of which the busiest street is the Via Roma, formerly called the Toledo. The famous lazzarone of yore is no longer in evidence, happy and lialf naked, but more of family life in the open air is to be seen in Naples than in any other city in Europe. Hawkers, newspaper- sellers and itinerant vendors of eatal)les, such as fish, macaroni, etc., swarm in the streets. 12 NAPLES. The traveller will miss the traditional gaiety and light- heartedness that finds its spontaneous expression in dance and song. Those fragmentary buffooneries witnessed here and there in the streets are no longer the expression of exuberance, but mere catch-pennies. Notwithstanding the spread of education professional letter-writers are still to be found under the portico of S. Carlo. The older portion of Naples, of which we have just taken a survey, is divided from the western or modern quarter by a ridge of rock running from the heights of S. Elmo on the north of the town down to ihe Castel Nuovo, which is a conspicuous object in the coast line of the bay, dividing the latter into two distinct curves. Anciently there was but one way of passing this ridge without climbing up one side and down the other ; and that was the narrow cutting called the Strada di Lhiaia. Standing in the Piazza S. Ferdinando with the back to S. Carlo Theatre and looking westward, on the right is the Via Roma ; on the left the royal palace ; all round an intricate medley of trams, cabs, omnibuses and carts ; and immediately opposite is the entrance to the Strada di Chiaia. The steepness of the hill through which it is cut is disguised on this side by the buildings with which it is covered. At the top of it is the street called Monte di l)io, leading to the Pizzofalcone. By the Strada di Chiaia the street passes under the bridge which connects the two halves of the severed ridge. Further down is the Teatro Sannazaro ; the road then bears to the left. The first turning to the right leads to the new Via del Mille, where is the British Consulate General. Below this is the Piazza dei Martiri, so called in memory of the patriots whose names are inscribed on the column in the centre. In the left-hand upper corner is the Scottish Church. Thos. Cook and Son's Offices are in the Via Chiatamone (Galleria Vittoria) leading from the Piazza dei Martiri towards the sea. Straight on, through the short street Calabritto, is the Piazza Vittoria ; to the left towers the west front of Monte di Dio ; in front is the sea. To the right there are two parallel roads westward. The first of these, where the tramway runs, is called the Riviera di Chiaia. The other road, called the Via Caracciolo, runs close to the sea, and is used as the fashionable drive, about sunset. From this is obtained a beautiful view of the whole sweep of the western bay, with the promontory and hill of Posilipo. Between this drive and the Riviera lies the Villa Nazionale, or public garden, a delight- GENERAL SURVEY. I 3 ful pedestrian lounge. Among the trees are many fine statues, ancient and modern. Here is the granite basin brought from Paestum (it stands on the site formerly occupied by the Farnese bull, now in the museum). About half way along the garden is the Aquarium ; and opposite this an opening into the Riviera leads to the street of S. Pasquale, where is the English Church. At the end of the Villa the road emerges on a square called the Piazza Principe de Napoli, at the left-hand corner of which, by the sea, is the Grand Hotel. Beyond this, in front, is a district now occupied by elegant palazzi, which less than twenty years ago was a beach covered by fishermen's boats. To our right is the tram-line, following which, still westward, for a few yards is the tramways junction known as La Torretta. One line following the road to the left runs to Posilipo, the other line runs straight up the slope of Piedi = grotta; both lines served by electric traction. In front is a conspicuous object, the mouth of the new tunnel through which one branch of the line runs to Pozziwli. At Mergellina, the west-end of the town, there has been recently opened a large new station of the direct electric railway from Rome and a smaller one for the same line at Parco Margherita, a little to the north of the Villa Nazionale. In the middle of this tunnel is a lift leading to numerous villages on the hill top. Just at the entrance to this tunnel a turn to the left brings one to "Virgil's Tomb," and to the famous old grotto which is now used chiefly for carts and goats. In the street of Piedigrotta is the large church (see pp. 36, 60 and 62) dedicated to the Madonna, a pilgrimage to which in 1745 was the origin of a curious popular festa every 7th of September. Near this the tram-line divides, the right-hand branch follows the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, a road- begun in the last years of the Bourbons, and finished after the revolution ot i860. It runs along the slopes of the Vomero, which forms the back of the whole western amphitheatre, and gradually rises with many curves, the views of the sea to the right, and the hill to the left ever increasing in beauty. Presently is reached the station of the Cumana Railway, which serves the district of Pozzuoli and Baia, with boat traffic to Ischia. The Naples terminus of this line is at Monte Santo in the market of the Pignasecca to the left of the V^ia Roma. A little further up is a road to the right leading to the Via Amedeo, a fashionable neighbourhood, favoured by English residents, and 14 NAPLES. leading through the Via dei Mille, where is the British Consulate, to the Piazza dei Martiri. Proceeding up the Corso the International Hospital is passed on the left, then several hotels and the International School for Young Ladies, then the station of the Funicolare which leads from the Parco Margherita and Via Amedeo in the valley to the right, to the new village of the Vomero on the hill to the left. Be)ond this, is a district called Cariati, which is at the junction of the ridge that divides the town with the hill which lies at the back of it. Emerging from the houses and .still following the tram-line are unfolded a series of panoramic views of the old town, the port, the Campanian plains, the hills beyond, and, conspicuous above all, Vesuvius, with the villages of Portici and Resina at its base, and further to the right Castellammare and the Sorren- tine peninsula; the view being terminated by the island of Capri. Passing a second Funicolare which connects Monte Santo below with 5. Elmo and S. Martino above, the road reaches the Piazza Salvator Rosa, where the Corso Vittorio Emanuele ends. Here the hill of Infrascata to the left forms a quick communication by electric tramway between the city and the heights of S. Martino. The other branch of the tram- way from Salvator Rosa leads down to the Museum. The traveller has now taken a general survey of all Naples old and new. The following details should not be omitted : — Following the Via Roma straight up the hill past the Museum is crossed the bridge of the Sanita, made by the Bourbon kings over a swamp for the purpose of reaching the village of Capodimonte, the royal palace and park which will well repay the time of a visit {see p. 53). Secondly, proceeding along Foria, beyond the point where the road formerly turned into the old town on the left, is the Botanic Garden, after that the Reclusorio or Poor-house. Here the road divides ; that to the left leads up to the Campo di Marte. used chiefly for races and reviews, and formerly by the English colony for cricket. The lower, or right-hand road from Reclusorio, leads to the old and new English cemeteries and to the great Neapolitan burying-ground. Thirdly, from the Piazza S. Ferdinando the traveller who does not care to go through the crowded Strada di Chiaia can take the road to the left, following the tram-line in the direction of the sea. On the left is the west front of the royal palace ; CHURCHES. 15 the great square to the right is the Piazza Plebiscite, where, in i860, the popular vote annexed Naples to the kingdom of United Italy. I'he church (S. Francesco di PaoJa), with the colonnade, was built after the peace of 1815. In the left-hand further corner, in the Piazza Paggeria, is an Industrial Museum and school (open daily except Sundays, 10-4). Past the royal palace, on the left is seen the Arsenal, in the hollow ; and then comes the once famous region of 5anta Lucia, which has become a thing of the past, on account of the new quarter built on land recently reclaimed from the sea. At the bottom of the Strada Sta. Lucia (in which is a sulphurous spring) the road bears round to the right, passing under the south front of the hill of Monte di Dio. Anciently there was no road here, as the promontory ran straight down into the rock on which is built the Castel dell' Ovo. Following this road (where are situated the hotels Excelsior, Sta. Lucia, du Vesuve, Continental, and others), which, though roundabout, is more agreeable than the Strada di Chiaia, the visitor soon arrives at the Piazza Vittoria. The Duomo. The Cathedral (dedicated to St. Januarius) stands in the Strada del Duomo, on the site of a temple of Neptune, of which the columns of granite and ancient marble found in the present structure probably formed a portion. It was commenced by Masuccio, under Charles I. of Anjou, in 1272, and completed in 1323. In 1456 it was almost entirely destroyed by an earthquake, and was afterwards rebuilt by Alphonso I. Not- withstanding frequent alterations made during the 17th and 1 8th centuries, it still retains much of its original Franco- Gothic character. The Church is a Basilica, having a Gothic nave and two aisles separated by two ranges of pila.sters. The Holy Water Font, of green basalt, is evidently, by its Bacchanalian emblems, of pagan origin. Above the principal gate are (1.) the tomb of Charles I. d'Anjou, and (r.) tomb of Charles Martel, King of Hungary, and his wife, Clementina, daughter of Rudolph of Hapsburg. Over the side entrances are pictures by Vasari. The ceiling is adorned with paintings by Sa>ifafede (square), and Viiiceiizio da Forti (oval). The frescoes of Doctors of the Church, Patron Saints of the City, and the Twelve Apostles above the arches of the nave, are by 1 6 NAPLES. Luca Giorda/io. S. Cirillo and the S. Cri.sostomo are by Solitnetia. Passing along the left aisle we find in the .second chapel — Incredulity of S. Thomas . . . Marco da Siena. Bas-relief., the Entombment . . Giovanni da N'ola. In the fourth chapel (that of the Seripandi family) — The Assumption (much restored in parts) . Periigino. In the left transept — Tombs of Andrew, King of Hungary, and of Pope Innocent IV. The entrance to the Sacristy next presents itself. Within are numerous portraits of Archbishops of Naples. On the left of the high altar is the chapel of the Capece Galeota family ; over the altar is- — Our Saviour between SS. Januarius and Athanasius. lieneath the high altar, down a double flight of marble steps, is the Confessio (fee i 1.) or Shrine of 5an Qennaro, built l)y Cardinal Carafa in 1497. Ten Ionic columns support the marble roof. The saint's remains are beneath the altar, and close by is a kneeling statue of Cardinal Carafa. To the right of the choir is the Tocco Chapel. Tomb of S. Asprenas. Frescoes (scenes from his life). In the corner of the right transept (fee) the Minutolo Chapel (13th century), designed by Masnccio — Passion of our Lord (the upper paint- ings) ..... T'/niumso degli Stcfani. Members of Minutoli family (the low^ r paintings) . .... Unknown. The latter are curious for costume, but, unfortunately, have I)een painted over. Altar . . . . . . Pie fro degli Stefani. Tomb of Cardinal Minutolo, and Gothic Canopy ........ Baboccio. Tomb of Archbishops of the family. Readers of Boccaccio will call to mind the adventure of the Jockey of Perugia, who came by night to this chapel to steal a ring from the archbishop's corpse. CHURCHES. ly In the nave, notice the Archbishop's chair. The rich foHation of the columns and elegant tracery of the arch of the nave are considered almost unique. In the right aisle the Brancia Chapel. Tomb of Cardinal Carbone and Clothic Canop)- ...... Baboicio. The Caracciolo Chapel contains a wooden crucifix .... Alcm/ccio. .\ door out of the left aisle conducts to the Basilica of Santa Restituta (fee 2 1.), the ancient cathedral for the Greek ritual. The ancient Corinthian columns of the nave, and two white marble columns by the Tribune, are from the Temple of Apollo, which formerly occupied this site. This church dates from the 7th century; restored in the 17th; but some of the pointed arches in the nave and the Gothic chapels in the right aisle are part of the original structure. Near the entrance are Tomb of Mazzocchi (scholar). Tomb of Canonico Jorio (antiquarian). Observe on the roof of the nave, S. Restituta's body carried by angels in a boat to Ischia .... Li/ca Giordano. Behind the high altar in tlie choir, Virgin and Archangel Michael and S. Restituta ..... Silvcsfro de' Ihioiii. On the left of the chur(-h is the Chapel of Santa Maria del Principio. Ancient mosaic, Virgin and Child, called del Principio, as being the first picture of the Virgin venerated in Naples. " Bas-reliefs^ parts of 8th-century pulpits, representing scenes from lives of SS. Januarius, Eustatius, and Jose[)h. At the end of the right aisle is the Chapel of S. Giovanni in b'onte, once the Baptistery, the cupola of which is covered with early mosaics and paintings. From the right aisle of the church we enter the Chapel of St. Januarius (or Cappella del Tesoro). A vow made during the plague of 1527 was the origin of this edifice. It was conmienced in 1608, and completed at a cost of a million 1 8 NAPLES. ducats, in twenty-nine years. It is in the form of a Greek cross. Notice the splendid bronze grille, designed by Fansai^a, which occupied forty-five years of patient work. 7 altars and 42 marble columns. 19 bronze statues of saints. Sick waiting at Tomb of S. Gennaro . Domeuichifw. Martyrdom of S. Gennaro ... „ Dead man raised up at Tomb of b. Gennaro ..... „ Sick cured with Oil from Lamp at Tomb of S. Gennaro ... „ S. Gennaro curing a Demoniac . . ,, The latter was comi)leted by Spagnoletto. S. Gennaro leaving Fiery Furnace (in r. chapel) ..... Spagnotetto. Frescoes of roof, lunettes, etc. . . Doinenichino. Numerous Frescoes from life of S. Gennaro. In the Sacristy of the Tesoro, S. Gennaro curing a Demoniac . . Stanzioni. Several Paintings .... L. Giordano. Rich collection of Plate and Vestments. Silver bust of S. Gennaro, covered with valuable offerings from various monarchs. Notice rich parure of diamonds and emeralds from Joseph Buonaparte. 3 silver statues, and 45 bust of saints, etc. S. Gennaro's Martyrdom (pencil draw'ing) Domenichitio. High Altar, with silver relief — Arrival of Remains of S. Gennaro. Behind the altar is a taliernacle containing the two phials of the saint's blood. For times when the ceremony of lique- faction takes place, see next page. S. Januarius (S. Gennaro) was of ancient Roman descent, became a Christian in his early years, and was made first Bishop of Benevento m a.d. 304. Januarius and his friends, Socius and Proculus, seem to have passed unscathed through the fearful persecutions of Diocletian and Maximilian. But on the accession of Galerius, Timotheus, the pro-praetor of Campania, determined to stay the labours of the Christian bishop. He summoned Januarius and his deacons before him, ordered them to recant, and on their refusal condemned them CHURCHES. 19 to be burned. They were cast into a fiery furnace ; sweet music was heard in the midst of the flames ; and when, at the command of Timotheus, the furnace was opened, fire leaped forth and destroyed his soldiers, while the saints remained unhurt. Other miracles followed, but did not preserve the life of the saint, who perished by the sword at the Solfatara, on the morning of September 19, a.d. 305. Two phials full of the blood of S. Januarius were preserved, which, according to tradition, liquefies accordingly three times a year, on the I St Saturday in May, September 19th and December i6th. When the "miracle" takes place, the head is placed on the altar, in a magnificent shrine, together with the crystal vase containing the two phials. Only one phial is now exhibited, the contents of the other having been carried off to Madrid by Charles III., where, in the absence of the head, the miracle only takes place on the anniversary of the martyrdom. No special permission is required to inspect the Tesoro of San Gennaro — a small tip is all that is necessary. 5anta Chiara. (Strada Trinita Maggiore.) More like a long hall than a church — 270 feet long by 104 feet broad. Commenced in the Gothic style in the reign of Robert of Anjou; completed by Masuccio II., in Romanesque, circ. 1320. Overloaded with excessive orna- mentation in 1752. At this date the frescoes of Giotto, with one exception, were whitewashed to make the church look lighter. The only remnant is the Madonna delle Grazie (3rd pier on the left). On the left of the principal entrance — Tomb of Onofrio di Penna (Secretary of King Ladislaus). Now an altar .... Baboccio. „ AT 1 T- .L J [ Francesco, son of tresco, Madonna Enthroned . s ^r j c- ' |_ Maestro Simone. Queen of Sheba (on roof) .... Seb. Conca. David dancing before the Ark (on roof). ,, David sacrificing ...... Bonito S. Chiara puttmg Saracens to Flight at Assist (on roof) .... Francesco di Muro. Four Doctors of the Church .... Bonito. The Four Virtues ... . . Conca. 20 NAPLES. Holy Sacrament (on roof over high altar) Francesco di Muro. King Robert at the Building of the Church (over principal entrance) ..... Ibid. The 5an Felice Chapel (8th) — Crucifixion ....... Lanfranco. Ancient Sarcophagus, with bas-relief of the Marriage of Protesilaus and Laodamia, used as the tomb of Cesare San Felice, Duke of Rodi, The Balzo Chapel contains tombs of that family. The Cito Chapel, sculpture by San Alartino. The mediaeval tombs of Anjou Princes, etc., give the chief interest to this church. Gothic monument of Robert the Wise, Pancius and Johannes. The sitting figure represents Robert as a King, the recumbent one as a Franciscan friar. It is said that Petrarcli supplied the inscription. Tomb of Charles the Illustrious. „ Mary of Valois. „ Mary, Empress of Constantinople. „ Agnese and Clementina, daughters of fore- going. ,, Mary (child of Charles the Illustrious). Elegant Monument to Antonia Gaudino, Giovanni da JVola. This is near the door on the left of the Church. The epitaph is by the poet Antonio Epicuro, on the death of the young girl at the age of fourteen, on the day appointed for her wedding. In Chapel 2, on left, tomb of Raimondo Cabano, formerly a Moorish slave, afterwards High Seneschal to Joanna I., and one of the chief of those concerned in the murder of her husband. Chapel on right of high altar. Burial-place of the Bourbons. Tomb of Prince Philip . . . San Martino. Tombs of five other children of Charles III. The pulpit of this church, supported by four lions, has some remarkable 13th-century bas-reliefs on the martyrdom of SS. John and Catherine, CHURCHES. 21 Bas-reliefs under organ, History of St. Catherine of Alexandria. In Refectory of Franciscan Convent attached to the church — Saviour with Virgin and Saints King Robert and Family . . . School of Giotto. Close by is the large Monastery of 5. Chiara, once containing four hundred nuns ; area now occupied by shops ; at extremity of No. 23, see — Miracle of Loaves and Fishes (fresco) . . . Giotto. The Campanile of Sta. Chiara is a fine specimen of decorative art. It was erected to illustrate the five orders of architecture. The Tuscan portion was executed under King Robert ; the Doric was completed in the T5th, and the Ionic early in the 17th century, leaving the Campanile still unfinished. San Domenico Maggiore. (Vico S. Domenico.) A Gothic building, founded in 1285, from designs by MaSHCcio the eldei'. Altered at various times, now one of the most richly-adorned churches in Naples. Fine nave, 2 aisles, 27 chapels, and 12 altars. Gothic arches stuccoed and re gilt. Conimencing on the right — Chapel I (St. Martin), with arabesques on arch over entrance. Virgin with SvS. Dominico and Martin ..... Andrea da Salerno. Chajjel 2. Tomb of .'\rchbishop Brancaccio. The Madonna . . . (attrib.) Ai^nolo Fratico. S. Dominic and Magdalen . (attrib.) Stefanone. Chapel 3. Frescoes (much repainted) (attrib.) Agnolo Franco. Chapel 7 (of the Crucifix) is a church in itself. Picture of the Crucifix that spoke to S. Thomas Aquinas . Tommaso degli Stefxni. Bas-relief o{ a.hovG incident in front of altar. Carrying of the Cross and Deposition, on the sides of the altar, in Flemish style. c 2 22 NAPLES. Tomb of Francesco Carafa . Agnello del Fiore. Toml:) opposite Agnello del Fiore 6^ Giovanni da No/a. Small chapel left of principal altar. Tomb of Ettore Carafa. Chapel by entrance to nave contains — Madonna della Rosa .... Maestro Simone. Tomb of Conte Bucchianico and wife Agnello del Fiore. Chapel 8 (S. Thomas Aquinas), entrance to Sacristy. Altar-piece ...... Luca Giordano. Gothic tombs of Aquino family. Virgin and Child (on a gold ground) . . Simone {?). The Sacristy has a rich marble pavement. Presses made of roots of trees Frescoes (roof) ...... Solimena. The Annunciation . . . Andrea da Salerno. Forty-five mortuary chests covered with velvet, ten of which are of Arragonese Princes or Princesses. From the adjoining Tesoro the heart of Charles II. of Anjou, in its silver casket, was stolen during the French occupation. In the right transept — Bas-relief of S. Jerome. Several tombs, beautiful arabesques, etc. The Madonna delle Grazie . . . Agnolo Franco. The latter painting is in one of the chapels in the i)assage opening out of the transept. In this passage are various tombs, etc. In the chapel of S. Bonito, a triptych of the Virgin, Child, and Saints, etc., and some 16th-century monuments. Monument in Zingarelli (in transept) — o' ., -„K J , r"in small chapel . Bros. Donzello. S. Mary Magdalene J ^ The High Altar (1652). Splendid specimen of Florentine mosaic work ; notice the verd antique columns for candelabra. Four chapels in left transept. In the Pignatelli Chapel see The Annunciation (after Titian) . Z. Giordano. In the left aisle are eight chapels. CHURCHES. 23 Chapel 8 (from entrance), dedicated to S. Maria della Neve. Alto-relievo over the altar, with statues of Virgin and SS. Matthew and John, perhaps the chef cTa'itvre of Giovafini da No la. Monument of Poet Marini. ,> Bartolomeo Pipi. Bust of Marini (alluded to by Milton) Bartolomeo Visamti. Chapel 7. (Ruffo Bagnara) — • Martyrdom of S. Catherine . Leonardo da Pistoja Tomb of Leonardo Tomacella (1529). Chapel 6. Tombs of Carafa family — A Saint dressing wounds of S. Sebastian. Chapel 5. Tombs of Andrea family — Picture of S. Antoninus. Chapel 4. (Rota family) — S. John the Baptist (statue) . Giovanni da N'ola. Monument of Bernardino Rota (poet), with figures of the Arno and Tiber . Domenico d Aiiria. Chapel 3. Martyrdom of S. John the Evangelist Scipione Gaetano. Tomb of Antonio Carafa (Malizia). Chapel 2. (The Rosary) — Madonna di Sant' Andrea. A picture said to be endowed with marvellous miracle-working powers. Chapel I. (St. Giuseppe) — Infant Christ crowning St. Joseph . Luca Giordano. Adoration of the Magi . (attrib.) Albrecht Dilrer. Holy family .... Andrea da Salerno. The adjacent monastery contains many memorials of S. Thomas Aquinas, university professor here in 1272. His cell (now a chapel), his lecture room, and part of his chair are still shown. The Accademia Pontaniana used to hold its meetings here but is now transferred to the Palazzo Tarsia, near the foot of Sant' Elmo. In the Piazza outside is the obelisk of S. Domenico by Fansaga and Vaccuro. 24 NAPLES. S. Filippo Neri (Piazza Geiolomini), or the Church ol the Geroloniini, near the Duomo constructed by the Fathers of the Oratory in 1592-1619, from designs of Dionisio di Bartolomeo. Facade by Lazzari, altered later to match the church by Fi/ga, and covered with marble. Statues by San Martino. Cupola by Lazzari. Interior — a nave and two aisles, divided by Corinthian granite columns. Heavy architrave and flat roof, with gilt bas-reliefs ; the whole building excessively ornamented. Frescoes over columns .... Benasca. Fresco over entrance, Christ driving dealers from the Temple . . Lvca Giordano. The architectural details by . . Moscatiello. Picture over high altar Giovan. Bernardino Siciliano. The pictures on side walls .... Corenzio. Chapel of S. Fihppo Neri, left of choir, designed by ... . Giacomo Lazzari. Painting on Cupola. S. Filippo in Glory . So/iinena. Chapel della Concezione, right of choir — Cupola, Judith and Head of Holofernes . . Simonelli. The Conception .... Cesare J^racanzano. Chapel of Ruffo Scilla family, left transept, wnth fluted Corinthian columns. Six Statues . . . . . . Fietro Bernini. The Nativity Koncalli. Annunciation ...... Santafede. Chapel of S. Francis (5th on left) — S. Francis in prayer ..... Guido Reni. Near this chapel, in the nave, is the inscription to Giam- battista Vico, author of the " Scienzia Nuova," died 1744. Chapel of S. Agnese — Pictures . . . Roncalli and L. Giordano. In chapels in opposite aisle— S. Jerome awed by the last trumpet . . . Gessi. Adoration of the Magi ..... Corenzio. S. Alexis dying .... .Fietro da Cortona. CHURCHES. 25 Tlie picture in the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament is the last work of Scifitajede, unfinished at the time of his decease. The Sacristy contains many fine paintings — S. Filippo Neri in Glory . . . L. Giordano. Baptism of Jesus ....... Guide. Flight into Egypt Ibid. Mother of Zebedee and Saviour . . . Santafede. Ecce Homo. ...... Spagnoktto. S. Andrew ....... Spagjwletto. Crucifixion ...... Marco da Siena. S. Francis ....... Tintoretto. Heads of the Apostles .... Domenichino. Christ bearing the Cross (2 pictures) . . Bassano. Nativity ..... Andrea da Salerno. Adoration of the Magi ...... Ibid. Jacob and the Angel . . . Palma Vecchio. S. Sebastian ..... Cav. Ar(>ino. 5. Giovanni a Carbonara. (Strada Foria.) Built in 1344. Designed by Masjiccio the younger. King Ladislaus enlarged and restored the church in 1400. The Cappella dei Mirobelli, opposite the entrance, contains the Tomb of Trojano Mirobello. Statues of S. Augustin and S. John the Baptist in the pilasters by the high altar. Tomb of King Ladislaus .... Andrea Ciccione. This lofty tomb is in three storeys ; the first behind the altar, four statues of Virtues; the second, Ladislaus and Joanna enthroned, with attendant Virtues, etc. ; the third, the sarco- phagus containing the body, with attendant figures, recumbent effigy of Ladislaus, angels drawing aside curtain of the canopy, etc. On the summit is an equestrian statue of the young king. Frescoes, near the tomb, by Besozzo. \w the chapel beliind tliis tomb (Caracciolo del Sole family) — • Tomb of Ser Gianni Caracciolo, favourite of Joanna IL, assassinated 1432, through the influence of Corello Rufo, Duchess of Sessa. Frescoes of Life of the Madonna (note especially the Coronation) . . Leonardo da Besozzo. 26 NAPLES. The circular Chapel of the Caracciolo di Vico family, left of high altar, designed by Girolavio Santacroce. Statue of S. Peter ...... Merlicmo. ,, S. Paul ...... Santacroce. „ S. Andrew ..... Caccavello. „ S. James .... Pedro della Piatta. These four statues were executed as a trial of skill by the sculptors named. The Epiphany (mezzo-relievo) . . . Della Piatta. Bas-reliefs on altar ....... Ibid. Two Evangelists and small statues of SS. John and Sebastian ...... Santacroce. Tomb of Galeazzo ....... Scilla. ,, Nicolantonio Caracciolo . Domenico cTAuria. In the Sacristy (formerly Somma chapel) — Small picture ...... Bassano. Bas-reliefs on altar ..... Caccarello. 15 Frescoes (Old Testament History and Life of S. John) ..... Fasari and Doceno. Walnut-wood presses, from . . . Vasari's designs. The Chapter = house, a handsome room covered with rescoes. Prom the court enter Chapel of the Crucifixion, belonging to the Seripandis. The Crucifixion ...... Fasari. Chapels of S. Monica and Madonna Consolatrice. Monte Oliveto, or Sant' Anna dei Lombard! (Piazza di Monteoliveto), once a Benedictine Monastery, erected in 141 1, from designs of Ciccione. The Monastery buildings where Tasso was so kindly cared for by the monks in 1588 are now Municipal Offices. The church is full of sculpture, but its architecture is spoilt by restorations. Monument of Generjil Giuseppe Trivulzio (1757), Domenico Fontana, architect (d. 1607). CHURCHES. 27 Chap. I, 1. — (Pezzo) Statues and bas-reliefs. Chap. 2, 1. — (Piccolomini). The Nativity (relief) .... Donatello (?) Singing Angels ..... Rossellino Tomb of Maria of Arragon . . . Ibid. The Ascension (picture) . . . Silvestro Buono. Chap, r, r. — (Liguori), Virgin and Child Giovanni da Nola. „ Bas-reliefs . . Ibid. Chap. 2, r. — (Marini). The Annunciation (relief) Benedetto da Mariano. Chap. 5, 1. — S. John Baptist . . . Giov. da Nola. Chapel of the Holy Sepulchre contains a life-coloured group in terra-cotta of figures kneeling before our Saviour, being portraits of contemporaries of the sculptor, by Modanino. In the choir, frescoes by Siffione Fapa, and numerous monuments by JVola and others. Organ considered one of the best in Italy for tone. Incoronata. (Strada Medina.) Nave and left aisle of this church built by Queen Joanna in commemoration of her marriage with her cousin Louis of Taranto in 13-17 ; she included the Cappella di Giustizia in which the ceremony had been performed. From the gallery (entrance from the tower 30 c.) can be seen a series of admirable frescoes, considered good specimens of the School of Giotto. I'he compartments of the Gothic roof are filled with the following subjects :— Baptism. Christening of infant son of Duke of Calabria. Two half figures in this picture, one crowned with laurel, said to be Petrarch and Laura. Confirmation. Three children of Joanna. Holy Communion. Joanna and others receiving the Host. Holy Orders. Boniface VIII. consecrating Bishop Louis of Anjou. Confession. Joanna confessing, penitents being scourged, etc. Marriage. Nuptials of Louis and Joanna. Highly admired as a picture of court life, costume, manners, etc., in the 28 NAPLES. 14th century. A portrait of Dante, said to be discernible. Extreme Unction. A dying prince. Triumph of the Church. Cappelia del Crocifisso, end of left aisle. Carthusians doing homage to Joanna, and other paintings .... Ge/i/iaro di Cola. Frescoes, SS. Martin and George, etc. San Lorenzo. (Strada San Paolo.) This church was built on the site of the ancient Basilica Augustalis, the meeting-place of the Senate of Naples ; originally Gothic (1324), little of that style now remains except the marble doorway, and the ambulatory with chapels, etc. Our Saviour and St. Francis, etc. (over chief entrance) .... Vmcenzo Cor so. Sepulchral slab of Giambattista della Porta, the first encyclopaedist. Statues of SS. Francis, Lawrence, and Antony ...... Giov. da Nola (?) Bas-reliefs on high altar .... • Ibid. St. Anthony, on a gold ground (in cha[ el) Maestro Simone. Coronation of King Robert ... Ibid. In the choir are monuments of — Catherine of Austria (1323) . . . Masuccio. Joanna Durazzo, Countess of Eu, and her husband, both poisoned on the same day, July 20, 1387. Princess Mary of Durazzo . . . Masuccio II. Charles I., Duke of Durazzo . . . Ibid. In the Cloisters will be found the tomb of Ludovico Aldemoresco (14 14), Baboccio. Petrarch resided for some time in the adjoining monastery ; and in this church Boccaccio saw the charming lady whom he has immortalised as Fiammetta. CHURCHES. 29 Santissima Annunziata. (Strada dell' Annunziata.) Founded by Queen Sancia ; destroyed, with the exception of the sacristy and treasury, by fire in 1757 ; rebuilt (1782) by Vanvitelli, now one of the finest examples of classical archi- tecture in Naples ; forty-four marble columns support the grand cornice. Paintings over high altar and in transept . Francesco di Miira. Bas-j-elief^ Nativity and Deposition. ,, Descent from the Cross . . Giov. da No la. The Caraffa Chapel is very much decorated. The Treasury is a large hall containing an altar and the Tomb of Alfonso Sancia ...... Domenico cT Aiiria. Frescoes of roof (also in sacristy) . . Corenzio. Bas-reliefs on sacristy presses . . . Giov. da N'ola. In front of the high altar is the sepulchral slab of the profligate Joanna II. Adjoining the Church is the large Foundlings' Home (shown by special permission). Sta. Maria la Nuova. (Strada San Giuseppe.) Erected in 1258, on the site of ancient Torre Mastri ; rebuilt 1599, by Franco; consists of a nave and transept and fourteen chapels. Among the paintings on the flat, gilt ceiling are — Coronation of the Virgin. . . . Saiitafede. Paintings on the Dome .... Corenzio. Frescoes on roof of choir . Simone Papa the Younger. Chapel I, right. The Archangel Michael Amato il Vecchio. Chapel 3 „ Crucifixion, etc. . . Marco da Siena. Chapel of the Crucifix. Frescoes by Corenzio. In the right transept is a fine 15th century work with bas- reliefs, the monument of Galeazzo Sanseverino. In the adjacent chapel, beautiful wooden crucifix by Giov. da Not a. 30 NAPLES. Over the high altar (very much repainted) — Madonna (in wood) . . . To>iiinaso degli Stefani. In the Nave. Two figures of children . Luca Giordano. Chapel (2, left) of 5an Qiacomo della Marca is really a church, having seven altars, erected by " il gran capitano " Gonsalvo da Cordova, whose nephew, Ferdinand, in the chival- rous spirit of the age, raised the two monuments to his chief enemies, Pietro Navarro and Lautrec. The chapel on the right of high altar contains — A picture ...... Spagnoletii (?). Frescoes on vault ..... Stanzioni. On left of high altar a lofty monument to three of the Counts Sangro. In the refectory of the adjacent suppressed convent are frescoes from Scripture history, attributed to the Brothers Donzelli. San Martino. The suppressed Carthusian monastery and church of San Martino is beautifully situated, with splendid views, within the fortifications of the Castle of S. Elmo (see p. 57). Founded in 1325, by Charles the Illustrious, Duke of Calabria, son of Robert of Anjou, King of Naples, it was rebuilt in the 17th century. Since the suppression of the Carthusian Con- vent the church has been shown by Government custodians, as an adjunct of the Museum. (10 to 4, 2 1., including Belvedere and Museum ; free on Sundays, 9 to i ; closed on public holidays.) In the vestibule are some rude frescoes by Micco Spadaro and Bellisario. The interior of the church is perhaps unequalled in Europe for decoration ; coloured marbles, forming a long mosaic work, encase the floors, piers, walls, etc. ; an open-w^ork screen of marble parts off the choir. The Ascension (frescoes on roof) . . Lanfranco. Twelve Apostles (between the windows). . Ibid. Descent from the Cross (over chief en- trance), enviously damaged by Spagno- letto, under pretence of cleaning it . Stanzioni. Moses and Elias ..... Kibera, Twelve figures of Prophets over arches of the chapels . . . . Ibid. CHURCHES. 31 In the Choir many works of art will be found. Frescoes of the Vault. .... Cav. d'Arpino. Supper at Emmaus . . . Coinpleied by Bernardino. The Nativity ...... Guido Reni. (This was one of his finest productions ; it was incomplete at his death.) Fresco, over the Nativity .... Lanfranco. On the side walls of the choir- Communion of the Apostles Washing of the Feet . Last Supper Institution of the Eucharist Ribera. Caracciolo. Stanzioni. School ot P. Veronese. The two statues in the choir are by Domeiiko Bernini and Finelii. The marble ornaments and sculptured rosettes on the pilasters are by Fansaga of Carrara. The marble pave- ment by the Carthusian monk Presti. The high altar is from a design by Solimefia. There are five chapels on the right, viz Chapel I. Chnpcl 2. A (Madonna del Rosario.) painting by . . Domenico Vaccaro. Madonna ..... Sfanzioni. Rebuilding of Lincoln Cathedral, and another picture . . Andrea Vaccaro. Frescoes on Roof . . . Corenzio. Chapel 3. S. John baptizing our Saviour . Carlo Maratta. Lateral paintings . . . De Matteis. Our Saviour among the Blessed (Frescoes on ceiling). . Stanzioni. Grace and Providence (marble statues) .... Vaccaro. Chapel 4. S. Martin .... An}iibale Caracci. Two lateral paintings . . . Solimena. Painted Ceiling .... Finoglia. Charity and Constancy (two statues) . . . San Martino {ciitrib.). Chapel 5. (The Choir of the lay brethren.) Altar Painting .... Vaccaro. Landscapes (wall frescoes) . . Micco Spadaro. 32 NAPLES. Returning from the high altar along the opposite side of the church, we reach successively — Chapel I. S. Nicholas . . . Pachecco di Rosa. Chapel 2. Paintings ..... La Mura. Chapel 3. (S, Bruno) painted throughout by Statizioni. Chapel 4. S. Gennaro and Virgin {l>as- relief) .... Vaccaro. Torture and Death of S. Gennaro Caracciolo. Frescoes on ceiling (life of S. Gennaro) .... Corenzio. Chapel 5. Painted by De Matteis. In the Sacristy — Painted compartment of Roof . . . Cav. cTArphw. Ecce Homo ...... Stanziom. Peter's Denial . . . Michael An^^elo da Caravagi^io. Crucifixion ...... Cav. d'Arpino. Tarsia-work Presses, with reliefs. In the Treasury — Deposition from the Cross Triumph of Judith (on the vault). Said to have been executed in forty-eight hours. in the artist's seventy-second year . History of the Brazen Serpent . Numerous well-arranged relics in presses. Ribera. L. Giordano. Ibid. In the Chapterhouse — Frescoes on Roof ..... Corenzio. Founders of religious Orders (on the walls) Finoi^iia. St. John in the Desert .... Sianziont. Flagellation ..... Ippolito Roro/iest. In the Sala del Colloquio — Paintings (the life of S. Bruno) Avanzini. In the Cloisters — 60 White marble Doric columns, forming quadrangle. Statues of Saints Faiisai^a Vaccaro. Adjoining the cloisters are several rooms in which an historical museum has been formed, under the care of the CHURCHES. 33 director of the National Museum. Collections of silver vessels, ivories, porcelain, faience from Capodimonte, Majoliche di Castelli, Neapolitan civil and military costumes, Venetian glass and furniture, silk and arras, modern pictures, plans and maps. Beyond the court of the church is the Monastery Court, with sarcophagi and marble ornaments, leading to the former laboratory of the Convent, containing i6th-i7th century pictures of Neapolitan artists, battle-pieces, etc., and local curiosities : — - Gala carriage of Naples Municipality (used by Victor Emmanuel and Garibaldi in i860). Flags vowed to S. Lorenzo in the plague of 1656. Hat of Cardinal Ruffo. Chair of President of Parliament in 1848. Various MSS., newspapers, etc. The view from the Belvedere at the end of the Convent Garden is justly celebrated, and should not be missed. " One of the two loveliest views of the kind in Europe, the other being from the top of the Doge's Palace in Venice." Santi Severino e Sosio. (Piazza S. Marcellino.) Formerly attached to a Benedictine monastery. Enlarged and modernised in 1490. Cupola, painted by ..... Schefer. Frescoes of the vaults of Choir and Transept Coreiizio. In retouching these works Corenzio fell from the scaffold and was killed. He was buried in this church. Chapel T. r. Nativity of the Virgin . . Marco da Siena. Chapel 2. r. Sculptured Altar-piece . . N'accariiii. Chapel 3. r. Assumption of the X^irgin . Marco da Siena. Chapel 5. r. Annunciation . . . Criscuola. Frescoes on side walls . . Corenzio. Chapel 6. r. (Cimitile Family) lately restored. Adoration of the Magi . . Marco da Siena. In passage leading to Sacristy see — The graceful tomb of Andrea Bonifacio Cicara (a cliild) Giov. da Nola or Pedro della Piatta. Tomb of Giambattista Cicara . Giov. da Nola. 34 NAPLES. In right transept — Nailing Christ to the Cross. . . Afidrea da Salerno. Tombs of Mormile Family (Dukes of Campochiaro). Chapel of the Sanseverini^ Tomb of the three brothers Sanseverini (poisoned for sake of their property, in 15 16, by their uncle Ascanio) ...... Giov. da N^ola. In 1. transept, Qesualdo Chapel — A Pieta by .... . Domenico d'Auria. Statue over Tomb of Vincenzo Carafa . Naccarmi. The Crucifixion .... In recess of 1. aisle. Baptism of Christ Adoration of the Madonna, etc. S. Michael and other Archangel Marco da Sietia. Periigmo (?). G. Imperato. G. d Amato. The High Altar, beautiful Florentine mosaic. Choir Stalls, best wood-carving in Naples. In Crypt, over high altar, picture by Zingaro (?). In Monastery Court, an ancient plane-tree, whose planting is ascribed to St. Benedict. In the Cloisters (admission 25c.) are the twenty frescoes, scenes from the life of S. Benedict, attri- buted, though with some doubts, to Zingaro and his pupils. The immense variety of life-like figures and striking landscapes of these frescoes have long been celebrated. Since 18 18 the Archives of the Kingdom have been kept in the Monastery (see also p. 53). Other Churches in Naples. There are upwards of 505 churches in Naples, forming, in fact, so many museums of architecture, sculpture, and painting — the innumerable tombs and monuments not only interesting to lovers of art, but also profusely illustrating mediaeval history. (They are generally open free until about mid-day ; after that hour application must be made to the sacristan.) To describe all these churches would occupy volumes. We have noted, in some detail, those most worthy of attention, and now briefly mention some of the remainder, which the tourist can visit if inclination prompts and time allows. S. Gesu Nuovo. Frescoes by Solimena, Corenzio ; Stanzioiii and Vaccaro ; Cupola, etc., by Lan franco ; CHURCHES. 35 Paintings by Giordano^ Spiii^noletto^ etc. San (jennaro (St. Januarius), founded in the 8th century, but now modernised. The history of the Saint is depicted in frescoes. Behind the church is the entrance to the Catacombs of the same name. Admission, i 1. ; apply to the porter of the adjoining Albergo de' Poveri {see page 64). San Paolo Maggiore. Some remains of earlier Temple ; Marbles and Paintings by Corenzio, Stanziom\ etc. San Giacomo degli Spagnuoli. Tomb of Don Pedro de Toledo (its founder), by Giov. da Nola : Pictures by Marco da Siena, etc. San Francesco di Paola (181 7-31). Inlaid Altar, etc. ; modern paintings and sculptures. Santa Maria del Carmine. Statue of Conradin hy Schopf, after Thoiivaldseii. Sant' Angelo a Nilo. Monu- ment of Cardinal Brancaccio, founder. San Pietro a Maiella. Closed and to be pulled down. Chiesa del Sannazaro. St. Michael overcoming Satan, by Leonardo da Pistoja ; Monument of the Poet Sannazaro. Sant' Agnello Maggiore. Statuary, Giov. da Nola ; paintings, Santacroce, Domeiiico d'Auria, etc. SS. Apostoli (said to have been founded on ruins of Temple of Mercury, by Constantine). Frescoes, paintings, mosaics, etc. ; tomb of Poet Marini. Ascencione. S. Anna and S. Michael, both by Z. Giordano. Santa Brigida. Some of the best works of L. Giordano, whose tomb is also here. S. Carlo all' Arena. S. Charles giving the Sacrament to the dying during the plague at Milan^, a celebrated painting by Giuseppe Mancinelli ; fine marble crucifix by Michael Angelo A^accarino. Santa Caterina a Formello. Later Renaissance. The Crocelle. Tomb of Rev. J. C. Eustace. San Giovanni Evangelista. Built by the Poet Pontanus (1492), who covered interior with Greek inscriptions. San Giovanni Maggiore (recently rebuilt). Baptism of the Saviour, one of the best works of Alerliano. San Giovanni de' Pappacoda. Remarkable Gothic i)ortal, by Antonio Baboccio. San Giuseppe a Chiaia. Monument to Lord Holland (1859) ; Sta. Restituta, by Molmari ; sculptures by Solari. San Gregorio on site of Temple of ('eres. Paintings by L. Giordano. Santa Maria degli Angeli. Holy Family, Andrea Vaccaro ; other [)aintings by De Matteis, etc. Santa Maria della Catena. Grave of Admiral Caracciolo {see " Life of Nelson "). Santa Maria Donna Regina. Paintings on Altar, Criscuolo : paintings and frescoes, Z. Giordano; Tomb of Queen Maria of Hungary. Museum in old church behind ; gratuity. Santa Maria delle 7,6 NAPLKS. Grazie a capo Napoli. Embellished with works of Beinaschi. Giov. da Ao/a, Saiitacroce, Domenico cCAuria, Andrea da Saiertio, Caaavello, etc. Santa Maria del Pianto, over victims of plague of 1656. \'irgin restraining thunderbolts, Andrea Jdcearo : two pictures relating to the plague, Giordano. Santa Maria di Piedigrotta, 1353, but restored 1850, the scene of an annual festival {see pp. 13 and 62). S. Maria della Pieta dei Sangri, or La Cappella Sansevero, Remarkable allegorical statues, proof of manual dexterity rather than high art — Modesty, form and features shown through a veil ; Vice Undeceived, a man struggling from a net; Dead Christ, covered with a sheet. Bas-relief oi the Passion by Cerebrano. Santa Maria della Sanita has an underground church attached. Pictures by Giordano, Vaccaro, etc. Monte della Misericordia. Altar-piece, Caravaggio ; Samaritan and S. Peter, Saiitafede ; S. Paolino, Corenzio : the Redeemer, Giordano. San Pietro ad Aram. Descent of the Cross, Santacroce : Virgin and Saints (curious), Protasio C7-ivello ; Tomb of Sta. Campeda, and Miraculous Well. San Pietro Martire, altar-piece in twelve compartment.s, ascribed to Simon Marmion of Valenciennes, illustrating the life of S. Vincent. Assumption and Madonna, Silvestro de" Buoni ; several royal and other tombs, 15th and i6th centuries. SS. Pietro e Paolo, Greek liturgy used here ; frescoes by Corenzio. Santa Teresa (in Strada di Capodi- monte). The Visitation, by Santafede ; Sta. Teresa, by De Matteis ; Flight out of Egypt and other pictures, by Giacomo del Fo ; two pictures in style of Guidd), L. Giordano ; some paintings by Stanzioni. Santa Teresa (in Largo S. Teresella a Chiaia), built in 1650, by Fansaga ; Repose in Egypt, and other pictures, by Z. Giordano. The National Museum (Museo Nazionale). Between the Piazza Cavour and the Via Roma (Toledo). Open daily, from 10 to 4 in Winter; 9 to 3, Summer except on certain Festivals or Holy days.' Admission, 2 1. ; children, i 1. Free on Sunday, from 9 a.m. to i p.m. (or 10-2). The entrance is opposite the Galleria Principe di Napoli (p. 59). Tickets are issued on the right side of the gate. * The Museum is closed on Jan. i, 6 and 8 (Queen's Birthday), F^aster Day, Ascension Day, Whitsunday, first Sunday in June, Aug. 15, 19, 20, Nov. I and 11 (King's Birthday), Dec. 25. THE NATIONAL MUSEUM. 37 The Museum Building was originally intended for a Cavalry Barracks. It was commenced in 1586 by the Duke of Ossuna from the plans of Dom. Fontana ; and the build- ing was left incomplete till 1610; it was then assigned to the University, and inaugurated in 16 16 as the Regii Studii. After various vicissitudes, it was arranged for a public museum towards the close of the i8th century. It was enlarged at various times by the Bourbons, who named it in 1816 the Museo Reale Borbonico. In i860 General Garibaldi declared the Museum, etc., to be national property. Victor Emmanuel had the whole establishment reorganised, and extensive collections were added during his reign, more especially those known as the Cumaean, Santangelo, and the Farnese collection from Rome and Parma. The Museum contains the treasures excavated at Hercu- laneum, Paestum, Stabige, Cumae, and Pompeii. The bronzes and statues from Herculaneum, and the vast number of antiquities from Pompeii, are unique and unrivalled, rendering the collections in the Naples Museum the first of their kind in the world. The present Director is Professor Vittorio Spinazzola. English or French illustrated catalogues 2 1. Permission for copying must be obtained at the secretary's office. The following abbreviations are occasionally used in the synopsis of the contents of the Museum, to indicate the localities from whence the objects exhibited have come : — B. Borgia Museum. Noc. Nocera. Pae. Paestum. C. Cumae. N. Naples. Pou. Pozzuoli. F. Farnese Collections. No. Nola. R. Ruvi. H. Herculaneum. P. Pompeii. S. Stabiae. The rearrangement of the entire contents of the Museum has now been completed, with the exception of the inscriptions, and a few special collections. On the Ground Floor the Statuary is divided into — I. In the Vestibule, Decorative Municipal Art. II. In the East Wing-, Marble sculpture of the Archaic and Hellenistic period. 111. In the West Wing-, (ireek and Roman Portraits, Inscriptions and Large Bronzes, Egyptian and Terra- cotta Collections. D 2 36 NAPLES. In the Entresol, on the left are the Offices of the Directors ; and on the right, Mural Paintings and the Reserved Cabinet. On the First Floor, on the left is the Picture Gallery and the Museum of Mediaeval Art ; and on the right articles of food from Pompeii, the Antiquities, including small Bronzes, and the Library which extends also into the centre. On the Second Floor (by a winding staircase) is a new Gallery, containing the collections of Glass, Gold, Silver, Arms, Medals, Vases, Papyri. (A portion of the mural paintings, Pompeian statuettes, and small bronzes are scattered in various collections from mere decorative motives.) The Vestibule, divided into three aisles, contains the principal decorative Statues of the Forums of Pompeii and Herculaneum, with some important memorial monu- ments of Rome, such as the columns of Herodes Atticus in cipollino marble on each side of the entrance found at Rome on the Via Appia; the marble vases dedicated to Victory, and Fortuna Augusta ; the four colossal Farnese Statues, the Genius of Rome, Urania, Flora, and Alexander Severus. Chief among the municipal statues of Herculaneum are the equestrian statues of the Balbi, father and son ; statues of the wnfe and daughters of Balbus found in the Basilica in 1759. Among those of Pompeii are Eumachia as a priestess ; Cleonia Augustale, and Marcus Rufus. Under the four great windows are No. 6,705, the _S arcophagus_o f Prometheus, and three others. To complete the tour of the rooms on the Ground Floor, according to the new arrangement it is necessary to begin at the eastern wing of the first room to the right of the entrance. First Section. Corridor of the Tyrannicides. — Hall of Victory ; of the Temple of Locri ; of Athene Parthenos ; of the Doryphoros ; of the Palestrite. Corridor of Flora. — Hall of the Farnese Bull, and other masterpieces ; of the Venus Callypj^gus. Corridor of the Candelabra. — Hall of the Fragments ; Egyptian Museum ; Terra-cottas from Aleiapontum, Taren- tii/nt, and Pompeii. Second Section. — Greek and Roman Portraits. Corridor of the Orators. Corridor of the Emperors. — Hall of the Temples ol Isis, Apollo, and Jove. THE NATIONAL MUSEUM. 39 Corridor of the large Bronzes. — Hall of the bronze figures of Pompeii and Herculaneutn. An official Catalogue of the rearranged Museum has not yet been published. We are indebted to the good offices of Messrs. Detken and Rocholl, English and Foreign Booksellers, Piazza Plebiscite, Naples, for the following description of the various collections. First Section (East Wing). History of Art. With a view of giving the visitor a general idea of the evolution of Art in ancient times, the statues have been arranged from the most Archaic period, ascending by degrees to the art of Polycletus and Phidias, and from thence to that of Praxiteles, and the decadent schools. This in respect to Greek Art. The same system of arrangement could not be followed for Roman Art, but an attempt has been made to group the objects according to the various copies. First Corridor (or Portico).- — (Archaic Statues and Objects.) 6,556. Funeral tablet. 6,007. Athena Pronachos (copy). F. 6,006. Orestes and Electra. H. 6,008. Artemis of Thespia, antique statue of the 5th century B.C., found at Pompeii in the house of Holconius, and has preserved some traces of colour. In__ the centre,__ 6,0 09, 6^oio^^__ Harmodius _iLDil Aristogejton^_ihe_sl ayers of the tyrant jjipparchug- This is a copy of the group in bronze at Athens, carved B.C. 450, to replace the original by Antenor, which was carried off by Xerxes. Room I. — 5,998. Venus Genetrix, the work of Alcamenes, found in Naples during the demolition of the old quarter. Room II. — Remains of a Greek Temple of the 5th century B.C. 1 ^0,119. Group of the Dioscuri, allies of the Locrians. Facade of the temple in memory of the battle of the Sagra. Reproductions in i)laster of the columns and capitals of the temple. Wall-case containing figures and fragments oi ex voto. Room III. — 6,024. Athena (Minerva), copy of a statue by 'Phidias. 6 ,393. Ver}^fin^_head_of__Ji4)ong. F. 6,727. ^H-TTnrmp Q . se has- relirf^ represent ing Orpheus and Eurydi ce, guided by Hermes to the infernal regions. F. 40 NAl'LES. Room IV. — 6,oii. Statue of Doryphoros, antique copy of the celebrated statue by Polycletus found in the Palustra of Pompeii in 1797. 6 ,00c;. Juno Farne se (work believed to be by Polycletus about 420 B.C.) Room V. (Mosaics). — Including some of the very finest Mosaics from Herculaneum and Pompeii. 9,991. Genius of Autumn riding on a lion. 9,985 and 9,987. Comic scenes, signed by Dioscurides of Samos. P. 9994. Garland and masks. 9993. Cat, bird, etc. Re-entering the First Corridor, pass to the end division of it. 119,917. Statue of a Palestrita found at Sorrento. 6,411. Wounded fighting warrior. Second Corridor (of the Flora). — Containing works of Roman Sculpture, and Greek reproductions. 6,409. The ':ijc>F arnese Flo ra, found in the Baths of Caracalla (a large graceful \vOTk). F. 5^999. Neoptelem us. 6,276. Artemis. 6358. Paris. Hall of the Farnese Bull. — 6027. Farnese Juno. 6353. Eros. 6017. Aphrodite. 6019. Psyche. 6318. Farnese Bacchus. 6307. Dionysius and Eros. 6,002. The_Farnese Bull, a Roman copy of a large group by ApoUonius and Tmiriscus, Rhodesian sculptors (pupils of Phidias), found in the Baths of Caracalla in 1546, much mutilated, and restored by Giambattista Biondi of Milan, and again later. The mythological legend of the group is as follows : Lycus, the King of Thebes, having married Uirce after repudiating Antiope, her rival, the former caused Antiope to be imprisoned and exposed to wild beasts on Mt. Cithaeron, where she was avenged by her sons, Zethus and Amphion. Meanwhile, Lycus and Dirce came to Mt. Cithaeron for the festival of Bacchus, intending to kill Antiope, but the sons slew Lycus, and tied Dirce, their mother's persecutor, by her long hair to the horns of a bull, to be dragged to death over the rocks of Cithaeron. The original is supposed to have been in bronze. 6,001. The Farnese Hercules, found in the baths of Caracalla in 1840. The simple and majestic attitude of the statue is very striking, and according to the inscription it is the work of Glycon of Athens. Both the Farnese Bull and the Farnese Hercules were presented to the Bourbon King of Naples by the Farnese family. 124,325. Sarcophagus, with inscriptions. 6726. Bacchus. 6673. Birth of Bacchus (one of three marble vases). THE NATIONAL MUSEUM. 4I Hall of the Amazons. — A short passage leads to two small rooms containing reproductions of groups erected by King Attains I. on the Acropolis at Athens as votive offer- ings. 6,012. Dead Amazon. 6,013. Dead Giant. 6,014. Dead Persian. 6^01 q. W^ounded_ _Gaul. J Hall of Venus.- — A collection of Venuses and Cupids. v^ 6,339. Cupid asleep. 6,293. Crouching Venus. 6,284. 5 Venus. 6j2^3^__Venus_Anadyomene. 6j^2^,__yenus_Calligy = i gus, found in the ruins of Nero's Golden House at Rome ; remarkable for the softness of the flesh, and the graceful attitude. At the end of the Second Corridor is the Egyptian Museum which belonged to the Borgian Collection. It contains copies in plaster of Egyptian and Assyrian monuments, statuettes in basalt, bas-reliefs, inscriptions, and mummies. At the foot of the staircase are male and female mummies, among them a priest and a princess. In the glass cases are necklaces, amulets, and animals sacred to Egyptian worshij). In one of the four rooms is a Collection of Terra = Cottas principally from the Tem]jle of Apollo at Metapontum, also polychrome tablets, ex voto statuettes from Pompeii, Tarentiini, and Cumcc. Returning pass into the Third C'orridor (right) where are a number of coloured scul[)tures, including (centre) 6278 Diana, of Ephesus. Parallel to the corridor are five rooms with various sculptures and reliefs. From the Third Corridor pass straight forward into the Second Section (West Wing). First Corridor ((keek Portraits) — 6,023. Homer, a splendid bust. 6,133. .Sophocles. 6,129. Socrates. 6,135. Euripides. 6,140. Apollonius. (?). 6,150. Pyrrhus. 6, 130. Lysias. 6,018. .'lischines. From this Corridor a door leads to the Gallery of the Inscriptions, containing in five rooms 2,000 Latin inscriptions, which are a mine of information to the scholar ; but we can, of course, barely allude to them. \st Room. Wall cases of small inscriptions. 42 NAPLES. 2nd Room. The celebrated Tables of Heradra found at Pis fieri in t 735. T,rd Room. Oscan inscriptions. 4//z Room, (jraffiti from Pompeii. ^th Room. Miscellaneous inscriptions. In the Second Corridor (of the Emperors) and in five adjacent rooms, have been placed the Busrs AND Statues of the Emperors, of which the following are most noteworthy : 6,040. Colossal statue of . ^ Augustus Cffisar, seated. 6,029. A Matron. 6,062. Julia, daughter of Titus. 6,033. Caracalla. 6,058. Titus. 6,060. ^. Claudius. 6,079. Marcus Aurelius. 6,075. Hadrian. 6,046. ^'*^ Caligula. 6,052. Tiberius. 1 i_oJ^92^_ColQsaaU ^st of Titus . 6,102. Maximinius, 6,078. Antoninus Pius. 6,098. Helio- gabalus. 6,291. Venus Faustina. 6,299. Venus Marciana. 6_^pi8_Colossal bust of Caesar. ^ itu ^ n+-,- . — x> In the miidle of the central room is ^ iQ^2o ^ The famous Mo saic of the Battle ofAl exander, found in 1831 in the House of the FauiTlit Pompeii. It represents the battle of Issus at the moment when Alexander, having lost his helmet, charges Darius with his cavalry, and kills the Persian General. Darius, in his chariot, is preparing for retreat. Also parallel with the above corridor are three rooms with bronzes. Room I. — QTJ^tatu ette of Isi s. Room II. — Statues and vases from the Pompeian Temples. 5,629. Apollo Sagittarius. 4,895. Diana. 6,266. Colossal bust of Jupiter. Room III. — In the centre (110,127) remains of a bust of Gall>a in silver. Third Corridor Large Bronzes. 5,595. Augustus as Jupiter. In centre. Horse from a quadriga from Herculaneum. 5^^5(23.:__QaiKiius__Drus.us. 5,612. Li via. In the five i^arallel rooms are Bronzes from Pompeii and Herculaneum : ist. Hall of Narcissus. Animals for ornaments of fountains, etc. 4,994- Siatuet'e of Fishermen. 5^00^. NarcissuSj_Jbujid_jiL_£b/^4^^/i^^ (A charming statuette, THE NATIONAL MUSEUM. 43 often reproduced.) 5,002. I )aiicing Faun. 5^,^0 2. Drunke n Silenus. 2nd Hall of the Archaic Apollo. 5,630. Archaic Apollo. 4,995 Two nude statuettes, one of them repre- senting a youthful Faun. 4,998. Venus. 4.QQ2:_ 3^ictory . 5,613. Apollo pla\'ing the Cithaera. In the centre, 125,348. Ephebos. by Polxcletus. (Found at Pompeii in 1899.) 3rd. Hall of Mercury. The bronzes in this and the two following rooms were found in the V^illa of Fiso/u\ at Hercula>ieiim. 5,625. Mercury R e]j£sing^__a^__j3eauti£ul representation of youth, probably by Lysippus. Si6i8. lli e Bearde d-Uionysi us. foriT ierfvcalled Plato. 5 ,604, 5,620 , 5, 60^. , ^621, q,6lQ. Archaic Sf.ltllfS, formprly tlmilght tn b^ dancing girls, now id ei itified -as-water heareig. 5,624. Sleeping Satyr. 4th. Hall of the Drunken Faun. 5j^628^_^)runk en Faun dancing, found July 13, 1754, in a Villa in Hemilaneinn. .-, 5,626. Discobulus. 5,627. Discobulus. J ^kUi^^ "^ "^"^^-^.^iVTa. 5th. Hall of the Paintings from Boscoreale. Various r«om the reign of Augustus to that of Titus, the Harbour of Misenum, constructed from Agrippa's plans, was the station of the Mediterranean fleet. It had three basins ; the marsh known as the Mare Morto w^as the inner one. A causeway now separates the Mare Morto from the harbour. Beyond the causeway rises abruptly the pyramidal Capo Miseno (268 feet), said to have been so named on account of its being the burial-place of Missenus, trumpeter of ALnea.s (JEn. vi, 232). The somewhat fatiguing ascent (three-quarters of an hour from Bacoli) should be undertaken on account of the fine view from the summit. Observe, in passing, reservoirs for obtaining salt by evaporation. The village of Miseno, or Casaluce, perhaps marks the ancient city (never very large) and naval arsenal of Misenum. Ruins of a Theatre still exist on the promontory called II Forno. Of the Villa of Lucullus nothing remains but some scanty ruins on the heights ; the Grotto Dragonara, another Roman relic, is a long subter- ranean passage, with columns supporting a vaulted roof, whether reservoir or magazine is uncertain. Near this point two mediaeval watch-towers are seen. A lighthouse marks the extreme end of the promontory. Westward from C. Miseno lies a strip of beach, separating the Mare Morto from the sea, once the Militum Schola, or parade-ground of the Roman soldiers. Modern name Miniscola. Krom this beach boats cross the (^anale di Procida to Procida or Tschia. ^\'est from this beach rises the volcanic rock known as Monte di Procida, covered witli vineyards yielding excellent wine ; numerous fragments of Roman villas remain. The south-west point of this promontory is the Punta di Fumo. Off the west point lies the rock of San Martino. North of the Mare Morto, and stretching to the Lago del Fusaro, lies a well-cultivated plain, which antiquaries consider 8o NAIT.ES. to 1)6 the Campi Elyssii of the sixtli hook of the .'Eneid. Amongst the vineyards and gardens arc numerous tombs, chiefly of sailors from the fleet at Misenum, as the inscriptions show. 'I'he ancient road across these fields to Cumae leads by the Lago del Fusaro. (Train from Baife, rather more than half a mile.) This was the Acherusian Lake of the poets. It was probably once the port of Cumai. A Roman canal, the Foce del Fusaro, connects it with the sea. It is still, as of old, famous for its oysters. Numerous remains of villas, tombs, etc., are in the neighbourhood. In the centre of the lake is a pavilion, built by Ferdinand I. The lake is supposed to be an extinct crater. On the north side, on a projecting piece of land called the Torregaveta, are the remains of the villa of Servilius Vatia, who retired to this place when Nero's cruelty and follv made life at Rome unbearable. Some ruined arches on the hills between Fusaro and Avernus are supposed to mark the site of Cicero's Villa Cumana. The Naples-Cumana Railway ends at Torregaveta {see p. i ). Steamers for Procida daily. CUM/C. Two miles and a half by the Via Domitiana from the Lago del Fusaro brings the traveller to Cum;i3. The direct road from Naples and Pozzuoli (the Via Cumana) passes north of L. Avernus, and by the Arco Felice. Cumae stands on an isolated hill, forming one of the ranges of " sea-girt cliffs " spoken of by Pindar. It was the most ancient Greek colony in Italy. Hence the Romans obtained the Sibylline Books long preserved in the Capitol. After becoming absorbed in the Roman dominions, Cumge long remained an important city, till, under the emperors, it decHned. It was restored by the Goths, burnt by the Saracens in the 9th century, and completely destroyed by the inhabitants of Naples, as being a mere harbour for pirates and robbers. The huge walls of the lofty Acropolis afford an exten--ive prospect of the sea as far as Gaeta and the Ponza Islands, with L. Fusaro and Ischia on the left. Notice remnants of the ancient fortifications at the south and west entrance. Numerous caverns are excavated in all directions in the rock on which the Acropolis stands. One ot these should be visited, viz., that known as the THE ENVIRONS OF NAPLES. 8 1 Grotto of the Sibyl, from its supjjosed identity with that mentioned by Virgil (.^n. vi, 43), which had a hundred entrances, etc., whence resounded "as many voices, echoing the oracles of the prophetess." Many of the passages are blocked up. We find from Justin Martyr that the Sibyl was still consulted in a.d. 150. Several ruins of interest are found in and near Cumje, among them the following : — Temple of Apollo, conspicuous on highest point of the Acropolis. Only one Doric column remains. Temple of the Giants, from which was taken the colossal Jupiter Stator in the Naples Museum. Temple of Serapis, where colossal Egyptian statues were discovered in 1839. Temple of Diana, excavated by the Count of Syracuse in 1852. Beautiful Corinthian columns of cipilino with cornices, statuary, etc., now removed to Naples. The Necropolis of Cumse has yielded a vast store of vase.s, ornaments, etc. {See Naples Museum, p. 37.) The traveller may return by the Via Cumana to Pozzuoli and Naples, or by the Cumana Railway from Torregaveta. [The more resolule antiquary, if willing to devote a separate day to the Northern Craters and CuniK, may continue north to Liternum, though there is little of general interest. The road follows the Via Domitiana (6 miles), passing numerous tombs, etc In this direction will be SL-en : — Lake of Licola, a source of malaria on this coast ; Monte Gamdo, mentioned by Pliny; Forest of Hamae (Triva; Lucus of Virgil) ; Liternum, ancient Roman colony. Here Scipio Africanus died in exile. Lago di Patria, River Volturno, etc] On leaving Cuma^ to return to Naples, a long vaulted tunnel, known as the Grotta della Pace, can be seen from the carriage. It is about half a mile in length, lighted by vertical shafts at intervals, and was ])robably a portion of the engineering works of Agrippa. Pedestrians can reach the north-west bank of Lake Avernus by this excavation. About 500 yards past the lava-paved road leading down to tlie tunnel is the Arco Felice, 60 feet high and 18 feet wide, spanning a deep gulley. It was probably a bridge, and also part of an a(iueduct. The traveller now reaches the road (at the railway station of Arco Felice) between Baiaj and Pozzuoli, already traversed. 82 NAI'LES. THE ISLANDS OF PROCIDA AND ISCHIA. This excursion can be made from Naples in two days, but three or four days may be well spent by those who have time to spare. Those who wish to visit Casamicciola Esculapius. Whether it was dedicated to ^sculapius or not is uncertain, but in the cella his statue was discovered, together with that of Hygeia and Priapus. By some it has been called the Theatre of Jupiter and Juno. It is a small building — the smallest temple, in fact, in Pompeii ; and the most interesting object it contains is a large altar, which stands in the open court. It is built of tufa, and closely resembles the sarco- phagus in the Vatican, known as the Tomb of the Scipios. Close to this temple may be seen, through an aperture in the arch, the Aqueduct built by Domenico Fontana in 1592, to supply Torre dell' Annunziata with water from the Sarno. (See p. 96.) * The Temple of Isis was destroyed by the earthquake of a.d. 63, and the present building had been only just restored at the time of the great eruption. Over the entrance is the copy of an inscrip- tion discovered there. It runs thus: " Numerinus Popidius Celsinus, son of Numerinus, restored from the foundation, at his own expense, the Aides of Isis, overthrown by an earth- quake. The Decurii, on account of his liberality, elected him, when sixty years of age, to be one of their order, without paying fees." The Temple is on a slightly elevated basement in the centre of a court surrounded by a portico of painted Corinthian columns, between which are several altars. In the inner temple was found an image of Isis, which is preserved in the Museum. On the south side are the chambers used by the priests. Several skeletons were found here, one being that of a man who had endeavoured to cleave his way through a wall, the door having been blocked up by the ashes. The axe lay by his side, and traces of his frantic efforts were seen upon ihe wall. On the fireplace remnants of food were discovered. 108 NAPLES. There are many interesting things to trace in this temple — the Purgatorium, containing the Sacred Well, where the wor- shippers performed their ablutions ; the halls, embellished w'ith elegant reliefs in stucco ; an adjoining wall, still bearing the traces of smoke from the sacrificial fire. Leaving the Temple of Isis, the building on the left, just before reaching the portico of the Triangular Forum, should next be visited. It has been variously called the Curia Isiaca, the School, and the Tribunal ; but these are mere conjectures, no satisfactory evidence of its purpose having yet been discovered. It is an oblong court, 80 feet long by 60 feet broad, surrounded with Doric columns, with two chambers at one end, supposed to be the crypt, and a piilpitum, raised about seven feet high. An inscription was found in the Great Theatre, which has been translated as follows : " Marcus Holconius Rufus, son of Marcus, built the Crypt, Tribunal, and Theatre for the honour of the city {colonia)." Proceeding (to the north) up the Strada dei Teatri and turning right the first building on the right hand, in the Strada deir Abbondanza, is the House of Holconius, numbered 4. It was an elegant mansion, with a handsome peristyle, and the embellishments usual in the houses of noble Pompeians. In this house lived a lover of the fine arts, and a man of good taste. Paintings may be still traced here, though some are fading, and the best have vanished. Groups of Bacchus and Ariadne, Diana and Endymion, Leda and Children, Silenus supporting a Hermaphrodite, and others yet remain. The most remarkable, perhaps, is that of Bacchus and Ariadne, of which Dr. Dyer has given a lengthened description. Many of the decorations in this house are very rich. Several skeletons were discovered here, among them one of a female, in w-hose hand was found a casket of treasures, who was arrested by the fatal vapour while endeavouring to escape. A short distance further on, in the same street, is the House of Cornelius Rufus. The spacious atrium contains two handsome pedestals carved in the form of lions, on which probably stood a table. A marble bust of the owner of the house, inscribed with his name, was discovered here, and still stands in the atrium. POMPEII. 109 Between, and in a line with, the Strada dell' Abbondanza and the Amphitheatre {see p. 121), is a Thermopolium, a kind of public-house where hot drinks were sold. This is in a state of perfect preservation, and an exact idea of a Roman place of refreshment can be obtained from it. In the Strada dell'Abbondanza and close to the House of Cornelius Rufus (p. 108) are the Stabian Thermae, so called, to distinguish them from the smaller and less magni- ficent baths in the neighbourhood of the Forum. The Stabian Therms are entered by a wide portal, opening into a spacious court or Palaestra, where gymnastic exercises were performed ; this court has a portico with fluted Doric columns and orna- mented capitals. On the walls are stucco ornaments, arabesques and paintings, some in good preservation. The court is 44 yards long and 27 broad, and in it were found two large stone balls, which were evidently used in some game of skill or strength. Opposite the entrance a door opens en a Tepidarium, and a corridor, where single baths are situated. On the other side is a Spoliatorium, with small dressing rooms. A passage leads into the Calidarium, and another to the Tepidarium, which contained, l)esides the usual square ir.arble bath, an elegant fountain. The side of the Thermee parallel with the Strada Stabiana is full of various apartments, where may be traced the places occupied by the furnaces of the two Tepidaria, with hollow walls for circulating the hot vapour. A magnificent Apody- terium, with circular arches, surrounded by marble seats, and rich with reliefs in stucco ; a richly-decorated atrium, etc. A short description of the process of bathing may not be uninteresting. Those who took the cold bath only, entered the Apodyterium, where they undressed, then donned a loose robe, and passed to the bath. The processes for the hot bath were more complicated, and resembled in some degree the modern Turkish bath. Passing into the Tepidarium, where they unrobed, they entered the Sudatorium or vapour bath. 'I hen followed the use of the strigil, an instrument of bone, iron or silver, for scraping the body, and corresponding in its purpose to the rough glove used in the Turkish l)ath. Then came the no NAPLES. peirumed hot-water bath, and after this luxury the bathers returned to the Tepidarium, where their bodies were anointed with unguents rich and rare, then, after leisurely dressing, they would enter the Palaestria to engage in various exercises to create an api)etite for the next meal, or otherwise kill time. At the back of the baths, in the Strada del Lupanare, there is a small lane called Vicolo del Balcone Pensile, on the right of which is the House with the Hanging Balcony {Casa del Balcone Pensile) (closed). This is the only case in which a successful attempt has been made to restore a house with a balcony to its pristine state. It is evident that such dwellings were not uncommon in Pompeii. Signor Fiorelli has succeeded in this instance with great skill ; three rooms of the upper floor, from which the balcony projects several feet into the street, being preserved. In the Strada del Lupanare, at the corner of the Vicolo del Balcone Pensile, is the Lupanar, Pompeian brothel. This place is kept locked up. The street derives its name from it. On the other side of the street is the House of Siricus (closed), so named from an inscription on the outer wall, containing the name of Siricus, and from a seal found in one of the rooms with the letters " Sirici " in relief. On the threshold there is an inscription in mosaic, " Salve Lucru." On the left is a room in which are symbolical representations of the deities. In an adjoining apartment there are some good pictures, namely, Neptune and Apollo presiding at the building of Troy ; Vulcan presenting the Arms of Achilles to Thetis ; Hercules Intoxicated, with Bacchus in the background, " for grace, grandeur of composition, and delicacy and freshness of colouring, among the best discovered at Pompeii." There are various other paintings in this house, and traces of many elegant embellishments. Close to this house were two taverns, one having the sign of an elephant, and the other serpents. Above the latter is an inscription, " Lingerer depart ; this is no place for idlers," a motto one would like to see over taverns nowadays. Entering again the Street of Stabiae, and proceeding north, the tourist will fmd on the right the House of Marcus Lucretius (closed), in which was found a painting and an inscription, indicating that the house belonged to Marcus Lucretius, a Flamen of Mars and Decurio of Pompeii. The inscription was as follows : POMPEII. Ill M. Lucretio Flam. Martis decurio?ii Pompei. The construction of this house is very curious ; the garden laid out in terraces, being considerably higher than the atrium. In it is a fountain and various statues. Only a few of the paintings are retained here, the best having been removed to the Museum. The fountain deserves special attention ; it is elaborately ornamented with shell-work and mosaics. In the Street of Stabiae are several shops. The turning to the right is the street of Nola, and in this street in 191 1 was discovered a house, named after the Count of Turin {Cam del Conte di Torino) belonging to Marcus Obbellius Firmus. There were 6 skeletons in it, which have been temporarily covered over with glass, but will probably be removed to the Museum at Naples. A walk of five to ten minutes will bring the tourist to the Gate of Nola, which lies within a passage or covered way built of stout masonry. An Oscan inscription, stating by whom the gate was erected, is on the keystone of the arch. The tourist whose time is limited need not visit this gate, as he will see others of greater interest. Turning to the left, he will enter the Street of Fortune, and find on his right the Casa degli Scienziata, named, as so many of the houses in Pompeii are, from the presence of those who witnessed its excavation. On the left hand, just opposite the narrow lane called Vicolo degla Scienziata, is the House of the Chase, so named from a large painting in the peristyle of a combat with wild beasts. Adjoining this house is the House of Ariadne, which extends from the Street of Fortune to the Street of the Augustales. The atrium, entered from the Street of Fortune, is remarkably fine, being 80 feet long by 43 feet broad, and adorned with 24 columns. The peristyle is composed of 16 columns, the capitals painted with brilliant colours. In the centre was a fountain. The con- struction of the house is such that, from whichever of the two streets the visitor entered, he had before him exactly the same view, and around him an identical arrangement of rooms. Continuing to explore tlic Street of Fortune, notice, on the left, the 112 NAPLES. House of the Grand Duke of Tuscany. It is small ijut elegant, and has a mosaic fountain and a representation of Amphion and Dirce. Close to it is the House of the Figured Capitals, so named from the capitals at the entrance doorway being sculptured with fauns and bacchantes. Next to this is the House of the Black Walls {Casa della Parete Nero), in one of the rooms of which are various graceful representations on a black ground. Adjoining is the Temple of Fortune. On the architrave of the shrine is an inscription, which has been translated as follows : " Marcus TuUius, son of Marcus, three times Duumvir for the administra- tion of justice, Quinquennalis, Augur, and Tribune of the Soldiers, by election of the people, erected this temple of Fortuna Augusta on his own ground and at his own expense." It is approached by a flight of steps. Traces of an iron railing which enclosed the temple are visible. The building was 80 feet long by 31 feet broad, and the whole was encased in marble. Two statues were foimd here, one of them resembling Cicero, the illustrious ancestor of the Tullion family. In the street leading to the Forum is a small Museum, which contains objects found in a Roman Villa excavated at Boscoreale, 2^ miles from Pompeii {see p. 125), in 1895, such as the bath with leaden pipes, and taps for hot and cold water, various earthenware vessels, an olive press, and a hand-mill. The frescoes and busts are in the Naples Museum (P- 43)- Ninety silver vessels ot Greek and Roman workmanship found in the Villa are now in the Louvre, Paris. Close to the Temple of Fortune are the Old Public Baths or Thermae. Entering the spacious court, bounded on two sides by a Doric portico, and on the third by a crypt, there will be seen arranged round the walls the seats where servants sat awaiting the pleasure of their masters, who sometimes bathed as often as seven times a day. Under the portico the bathers waited their turn, and here were exposed public placards of the amusements of the city. It is curious to read an inscription which was found on a wall, but has been effaced, and which has been translated as follows : — POMPEII. 113 " At the dedication of the Baths, at the expense of Caucus Alleius Nigidius Mains, there will be a venatio, athletic contests, sprinkling of perfumes, and awning. Prosperity to Mains, chief of the colony." Beyond this room is the Frigidarium (or cold bath), a circular chamber, with niches, in which were seats for the bathers. Two marble steps surround the basin, which is only 12 feet 10 inches in diameter, and about 3 feet deep — rather a poor swimming bath, and one that would find but little patronage among hardy northerners. However, in this the Pompeian reposed, and, after strengthening his frame with cold water, passed through folding doors into the Tepidarium (or warm bath), a chamber heated by air-pipes and a brazier of bronze. The embellishments in this room are of a very rich character, the vaulting being in stucco relief ; the cornice supported by small figures of Atlas, made of terra-cotta; recesses for the clothes of the bathers. Beyond this room is the Calidarium (or hot-air bath), its walls being so constructed that a column of hot air enclosed it on every side ; the floor also was hollow, so that the steam may be distributed from it. The mouldings in the vault are very rich. At one end of the room there is a semi-circular niche, in which is a vase of white marble for washing the face and hands. An inscription states that it was made at the public expense, by order of the Decurions, and cost 750 sestertia (or a sum equal to about ^6). Some read the inscription differently, and make the cost much more considerable. At the other end of the room was the hot sitting-bath. These baths occupied a considerable space, and contained many other chambers, now inaccessible to the public. The tourist will get a better idea of the old Roman baths from the Stabian Thermae, described on p. 109, although these are but insignificant in comparison with the Thermae of Caracalla at Rome. Returning to the Street of Fortune, and retracing his steps past the Temple of Fortune, the tourist will find on the left the House of the Faun (closed), so named from an elegant bronze statuette of a dancing faun. This house occupies an entire insula-— that is, the whole space between four streets — and is one of the largest in Pompeii. It measures 280 feet long and 120 feet broad. It was discovered in 1830, in the presence of Goethe's son. On the pavement in front of the entrance is inscribed the word of greeting, " Havk," in coloured marble. It has two atria, a peristyle, with twenty-eight 1 )oric columns, and 114 NAPLES. a large quadrangular garden with a portico, in which may be seen a great number of amphorae, or wine jars. Some of the finest mosaics were discovered here, amongst them the Battle of Issus and Acratus on the Panther, both of which are in the Museum at Naples. In this house was found the skeleton of a woman, and by her side gold rmgs, bracelets, and jewels, which she was endeavouring to carry off when the roof gave way. Near here is the House of the Anchor, so named from a mosaic on the threshold. It is a large house, but inferior to many already described. At the top of the Strada di Mercurio is a Triumphal Arch, once surmounted by a statue of Nero or Caligula. The traveller is now in the neighbourhood of some very remarkable houses, which may be visited in the following order : — - The House of the Tragic Poet (entrance by a side door), nearly facing the Thermae, is so named for two pictures discovered in the tablinum, one representing a poet reading, and another the rehearsal of his tragedy. Every reader of Bulwer Lytton w411 take pleasure in examining the elegant details of this mansion, which, according to his novel, "The Last Days of Pompeii," was the house of Glaucus. Its chief treasures have been removed to the Museum of Naples. In the vestibule was a dog, in mosaic, about to spring upon any intruder ; and below the inscription, " Cave Canem." In the tablinum are mosaics and remarkable ornaments. The peristyle of seven Doric columns encloses a small court, probably used as a garden. On the left of the peristyle is the library, and a small chamber, with Venus and Cupid fishing, and Ariadne Abandoned. In the triclinium (or chamber of Leda) is a • representation of Leda and Tyndareus. An admirable description of this house and its valuable contents has been given by Sir W. Gell, in his " Pompeiana." The Pullonica (or establishment of the fullers) comes next in order. In it were found, illustrated on the walls, the various processes in the fuller's trade, which was an important one, as wool was the only material used for dresses in those days. The atrium was probably used as a storehouse, the roof being supported by square pillars. The process of cleansing the garments was performed by the feet, the water being mixed with fuller's earth. Four large square vats or tanks occupy the entire end of the court, and in these the clothes were cleansed. POMPEII. 1 1 5 Near here are the houses of the Great and Little Fountains, in both of which are richly-ornamented fountains of variegated mosaic. The House of Pansa (so called from the words " Pansam asd," found near the principal entrance) occupies an entire insula in the centre of the city, and probably belonged to one of the richest and most distinguished residents in Pompeii. Including the garden, which occupies a third of the whole length, its area is about 300 feet by 100 feet. Part of this, however, was appropriated for shops, as was the custom of the place. No better idea can be obtained of a handsome mansion of that period than that afforded by the House of Pansa. It contains a vestibule, an atrium, with impluvium, the usual wings, open tablinum, peristyle, visitors' rooms on each side of the atrium, triclinium for winter use, a large triclinium ; open court, cubicula ; a large summer triclinium, opening on to the garden ; kitchen, servants' hall, and two-storeyed portico. The peristyle, spacious and elegant, had an arcade of sixteen Ionic columns around it. In the kitchen were found various utensils, including a frying-pan specially made for cooking eggs. There was also found a painting illustrating the art of cookery. On the threshold of this house, as of others, was found a mosaic with the word "Salve." At the back of the four insulje in which are the houses of Pansa and the Faun are four other insulse, which the traveller should next ins])ect, and will commence at the House of the Labyrinth, at the back (N.) of the House of the Faun, which derives its name from the subject of a mosaic in one of its rooms. The mosaic represents the slaughter of the Minotaur by Theseus, in the Cretan labyrinth. The virgins of Athens, who were about to become the prey of the monster, are depicted in attitudes expressive of horror and trepidation while the ground is strewn with bones, the remnants of the former ravages of the Minotaur. The house has two atria, one Tuscan, the other tetrastyle, with columns of the Corinthian order of architecture. In the corridor which leads to the peristyle is a window with six small apertures or loop- holes. It is constructed of terra-cotta. Among the other objects of interest found in this house may be mentioned a bronze bath, which as yet stands unifjue among the remains of Pompeii; also a large bakehouse. In the gardrii, the skeleton I Il6 NAPLES. of a woman with her jewels was found at a height of six feet from the original level of the house. The House of the Gilded Cupids {Casa degli Amoriiii Dorati), excavated close to the above-mentioned House of the Labyrinth. It is a large private residence, richly decorated. Beyond the spacious vestibule the beautifully- decorated atrium contains a money chest, and the adjoining rooms have some remarkable mural paintings. The peristyle, charmingly painted, contains marble and bronze figures, and the walls of some of the adjoining rooms are decorated with skilfully-drawn gilded Cupids. The House of Castor and Pollux (closed) is so called from paintings of the Dioscuri, or Sons of Jupiter, named Castor and Pollux, which decorate the vestibule. The house has also been called the house of the Quaestor, two large and handsome chests, which were supposed to have contained the revenues, having been found in it. A peristyle connects it with the neighbouring house. At its end are a fountain and garden. The peristyle is adorned throughout with pictures. The atrium is about 40 feet square, and painted throughout in red and yellow. Among the figures on the walls are those of Jupiter, Fortune, and Bacchus. The Court of the Piscina, which is entered from the other house, is one of the finest parts of this remarkably preserved building. The subjects of the pictures are Ceres, Apollo, and Saturn. Eight columns of stucco form the colonnade. In the centre is a piscina, or remains of a fountain. Two of the most beautiful paintings in Pompeii — Perseus and Andromeda, and Meda meditating the Destruction of her Children— were depicted on the alse. The triclinium is the only other noteworthy portion of the house. It opens on the court. The pavements of this house consist of a peculiar compound of tile clay and marble, called opus sig)iinum. The adjoining house is called the House of the Centaur. It contains little to attract attention, though the paintings of the legends of Hercules and Meleager were found there, and subsequently removed to the Museum at Naples. The house itself is in a very dilapidated condition, owing to the falling in of the roofs of a number of vaults under the peristyle. The House of Meleager, or the Nereids (closed), contains one of the finest peristyles in Pompeii. The freshness of the decorations and the presence of vessels filled with lime in several of the rooms indicate that the house was undergoing POMPEII, 117 repairs when it was entombed. It is paved with opus sigiiinum, and contains twenty-four fine pillars, somewhat of the Doric style of architecture ; in the centre is a fountain. The apartment is painted red all round, as are the pillars, to the height of about four feet. The peristyle is at the side of the atrium, and not, as is general, at the back. The atrium is also painted red, and agrees with the general character of the house, by bearing upon its red walls a number of designs, of which the principal figures are Nereids and sea monsters. Hence one of the names of the house. The House of Adonis (closed) contains a representation of Adonis wounded, and tended by Venus, as also the Toilet of Hermaphroditus, attended by two women, one of whom liolds a casket of jewels and the other a mirror before the face of Hermaphroditus. The House of Apollo (closed) derives its name from the numerous representations of that deity found on the walls and inside the house ; one in particular, a bronze statue, has since been removed to the Museum at Naples. The walls are painted with Bacchanalian and other figures. In the cystus is a large painting of Ulysses finding Achilles at the court of Lycomedes. This house is remarkable for its peculiarly formed fountain. Passing on to the Strada Consolare, we find the House of Julius Polybius, whose name has been found in several inscriptions. It is paved with mosaic, and is supposed to have been very highly decorated, from the remains of gilt stucco-work found on it. Leaving the house of Julius Polybius, the traveller will observe a small building on the opposite side of the Strada Consolare, which has been called the House of the Musician, or Academy of Music, so named from a representation on the walls of musical instruments, including the trumpet, flute, and various others. There is nothing else of interest in this house, and adjoining it is the Baker's Shop and Bakehouse, the most comi)lete of any of the shops of this descri[)ti()n yet discovered in l^ompeii. It contains a mill for grinding the corn, made of rough stone and of the shape of a dice-box. In one room a number of bowls were found, which appear to have been used as kneading- troughs. The oven itself adjoins this room. On either side I 2 Il8 NAPLES. of the oven is a hole ; one was for placing the dough in the oven, the other for withdrawing it ; above is an aperture for the escape of smoke, and below an ash-pit. The House of Sallust (closed). The atrium of this house is curiously painted with different shades of the same colour ; the panels are also stuccoed in a curious style. Passing through the tablinum from the atrium, the cystus, or garden, is entered. In this there is a summer triclinium of the kind described by the younger Pliny as being attached to his villa. Among the other objects of interest in the house were found a furnace and a machine for heating water, which latter has been removed to Naples. The House of the Female Dancers is very beautifully painted with female figures in the act of dancing. The Soap = shop contained beautifully-constructed scales, and was stored with lime of a very pure consistency, for the use of the soap manufacturers. The soap vats are placed in an inner room. The Custom House adjoins the soap manufactory, and possesses little of interest to the traveller, except from the facts that in it many curious scales and an ancient steelyard were discovered. House of the Surgeon. Here were found a number of surgical instruments of all kinds, showing that the former inhabitants of this unfortunate town must have been well versed in this art, as some of the instruments — the probe and forceps, for instance — have not been surpassed by the best of modern inventions. The pictures with which the house is adorned are remarkable for their generally studious subjects, showing the way by which their owner had obtained his skill in his pro- fession. One of these figures is peculiarly interesting, as giving us an idea of the way in which the papyrus rolls of manuscript were read— that is, from side to side, the columns running down the roll from top to bottom of its breadth. The House of the Vestals is remarkable by reason of a number of cabinets ranged round its atrium ; these were used as work-boxes by the occupants. The House of the Three Floors more nearly resembles our modern dwellings, except that the top storey is the ground floor, and on a level with the street, which contains the atrium, peristyle, and triclinium. The lower storey is reached either by a stair from the peristyle or a sloping passage from the street, and contains a triclinium and baths ; behind is a court, POMPEII. 119 with piscina. The lowest floor of all seems, from its wretched architectural arrangements, to have been the apartment of the slaves. The House of Albino, or of the Musician, is so called from the numerous paintings of musical instruments on the walls. It seems to have been a double-storeyed house, but is now in a very dilapidated state. The House of the Vettii (closed) is one of the most important recent discoveries (1895). It is almost unique in the beauty and variety of its decorations, and the authorities are to be congratulated on the great care taken to avoid any injury in the process of excavation and in the great success of restoring the house so as to present to the visitor a faithful representation of its original condition. The atrium, the peristyle, the two dining-rooms, the large room to the right of the peristyle, and the bedrooms abound with beautiful paintings, statuettes, marble tables and fountain- basins. The kitchen and the cooking utensils are just as they were nearly two thousand years ago. Inside the city, the walls and ramparts were reached by a staircase, wide enough to admit of several men ascending abreast. The ramparts are formed by two walls, the outer from 27 to 34 feet high, and the inner about 7 feet higher. The space between the two walls is filled with earth, and formed a plateau whereon the defenders of the city were marshalled. The wall is 2,925 yards in circumference. One of these stair- cases is situated next the Porta di Ercolano, or Gate of Herculaneum, which was made with a centre and two small side entrances. The principal entrance had a space between the portcullis and the inner gate, forming a double defence ; if the first were forced by assailants, a second still remained, and the aperture was used for throwing missiles on the heads of the foes. In this manner the defenders were enabled to do much damage in comparative safety. Passing out of the city by the Gate of Herculaneum, we enter the Street of the Tombs. To the left is a recess containing seats. The inscription proves it to have been the Tomb of Cerrinius Restitutus. Next, and on the same side, is the Tomb of Mamiae, a public priestess, as the inscription tells us. First, there is an alcove, which is reached by a step. Behind this is the actual tomb, 120 NAPLES. which contains niches for cinerary urns. From this point a lovely view of the surrounding country may be obtained. Farther to the right is a large square pedestal, which probably supported a bronze statue, for pieces of bronze were found at its base. Beyond this, and still on the same side, is a large semicircular seat, called an exedra. It is beautifully decorated and well preserved. The Tomb of the Garlands, so called from the nature of its decoration, is the next object of interest, and is close at hand. On the opposite side of the way a number of broken columns may be seen. These mark the site of what is known as the Villa of Cicero. To the right are some shops. The most pretentious of these is supposed to have been a hostelry or inn. The tombs on the left side of the street are those of Servilia and Scaurus, which latter had upon it a number of bas-reliejs in stucco ; these have now, however, disappeared. Next is the Round Tomb, so called from its peculiar structure. The Tomb of Quintus bears an inscription on it telling that the honour of the bisellium (or seat of honour) was conferred upon Caius Calventius Quintus for his munificence. The tomb is an extraordinary structure, and one of the most complete and beautiful in the whole street. That of Naevoleia Tyche is adjacent, and presents bas-reliefs of Naevoleia, of the dedication of the tomb, and of a Roman vessel ; the latter is represented as on a calm ocean, with all sails set, and is supposed to represent the journey of the soul. Lastly, the Funeral Triclinium is reached. This is the place where feasts were given to the friends of the deceased, on the day of their burial, by their heirs or survivors. To the right is a cluster of tombs, none of which have any special interest, except, perhaps, that of the marble door. It stands at the junction of two roads, and contains a small apartment, with numerous niches for the reception of urns. The Tomb of Lucius Libella has a very pretty appearance, being built somewhat in the form of an altar. It has no columbaria, and is rather singular in this respect. The inscription tells that the tomb was erected by a public priestess of the name of alleiadecimilla on ground given by the commonw^ealth, in memory of her husband, Lucius Libella, and her son Alleius Libella. AUeius seems to have been a very distinguished young man, as it is recorded that he was a Decurion of Pompeii at the age of seventeen years. POMPEII. 121 The distinction thus conferred on so young a man seems almost to contradict Cicero's reply to the friend who solicited his interest to obtain a similar position, " That it was easier to become a senator of Rome than a Decurion of Pompeii," but it was doubtless a tribute of public gratitude to his family. The Tomb of Cenis and Labeo shows very little of its former grandeur, and is, indeed, so very much deteriorated that very little of the ornamentation is to be seen at all. The Children's Tombs is a merely complimentary title, as no tombs exist. One of the so-called tombs is an urn bearing an inscription, which informs us that it contained the ashes of Gratus, who died at the age of twelve, and in another place near, one that says Salvius, a boy, died at the age of six. The Tombs of the Arria Family record the deaths and descriptions of Marcus, Arrius, Diomedes, and their families, Romans, to whom the adjoining villa belonged from time to time. The Villa of Diomedes (closed) seems to have been the only dwelling-house of any one of note in the street devoted to the emblems and receptacles of the dead. Diomedes also had his mausoleum very close to him ; the tomb on the opposite side of the way bears his name. Below the villa is a curious vaulted chamber, wherein a number of dead bodies were found. The ill-fated inhabitants, in their last extremity, must have rushed below for protection. But the openings of the roof admitted the fine dust and cinders, and Diomedes and his family were overwhelmed with the rest of Pompeii. Eighteen bodies of women and children who had provided themselves with food were found in the vault with their heads covered up, buried in the ashes. About 200 yards west of the Villa of Diomedes, a magnifi- cent Roman Villa, containing more than 20 rooms, was dis- covered in 1909. Some of the rooms are adorned with ancient fresco paintings imitating sculpture in high and low relief, also the precise effect of architectonic perspective. The Amphitheatre. — This building may be reached by following the Strada dell' Anfitcatro running eastwards out of the Strada Stabiana or from the high-road by a path diverging opposite the Albergo del Sole, nearly a mile from the railway station. The Amphitheatre (see p. 98) at Pompeii, although not equal in appearance to the Colosseum at Rome, was large enough to accommodate 20,000 spectators. Like all similar erections, it is elliptical in shape, and measures 122 NAPLES. 433 feet by 335. At either end of the eUipse may be seen the entrances for the combatants into the arena. The spectators were admitted by tickets, some of which are preserved in the Museum ; and the seats were arranged very much in the same manner as those in theatres. The lirst series of seats, having five tiers, was devoted to the use of the wealthy, senators, magistrates, etc. ; the second series had twelve tiers, and the third eighteen ; and above all ran a gallery, in which attendants, servants, and a promiscuous multitude assembled. The construction of the seats should be observed, as they are cut with places for the feet, so that the persons in the tier below should not be inconvenienced. When the Amphitheatre was first laid bare many interesting frescoes and inscriptions relating to the usages of the arena were discovered, but soon perished from exposure to the air. Several important sketches have, however, been preserved, and may be found, together with an elaborate account of amphitheatres in general, and this amphitheatre in particular, in Dr. Dyer's " Ruins of Pompeii." It will be remembered that on the day. of the eruption, the Pompeians had assembled in this building to witness a gladiatorial show, and to this fact, which Lord Lytton has worked out with such thrilling interest in his " Last Days of Pompeii," is to be attributed the comparative scarcity of skeletons discovered in the city, as it is supposed, upon the first burst of the eruption, the spectators fled into the open country and so were saved. The Amphitheatre was built a few years before the birth of Christ ; it suffered from the earthquake of 63, and was not completely restored at the time of its destruction. In the Street of the Tombs is a curious inscription, giving the names of certain combatants who took part in the gladiatorial shows, and from this source Lord Lytton was able to introduce the names of actual characters into his story_ Gates, Streets, and Walls. The Gates of Pompeii are eight in number, and some of them of peculiar construction. The Gate of Herculaneum, or Porta di Ercolano, faces the road leading from Pompeii to Herculaneum ; the Porta della Marina, or sea gate, spans the road which leads to the sea. The other gates are of less note, both topographically and architecturally ; they are the Porta di Nola at the end of the street of Nola, the Porta di Sarno in the part of the town least touched by excavators, and the Porta del POMPEII. 123 Vesuvio, leading in tlie direction of Vesuvius, a gate on the way to Capua, and one towards Stabias, with the gate of the theatres. The gates which are most perfect are the iirst three, namely, those of Herculaneum, Nola and the sea ; all the rest have suffered more or less from the ravages of time. In 1913 excavations outside the gate led to the discovery of the ruins of the seaport of Pompeii seven hundred metres beyond, and at a distance of 1250 metres from the sea. The jetty and other remains of the harbour were buried under about seven metres of earth. Outside the Porta di Sarno, on the north-eastern side of the city, recent (192 1) excavations have brought to light, at a " Compitum ' or street-crossing, a fresco divided into three sections, one of which consists of a large painting of the twelve Penates or custodians of the city, namely, Jupiter, Juno, Mars, Minerva, Hercules, Venus, Mercury, Proserpine, Vulcan, Ceres, Apollo and Diana. Close by is a house with the remains of a balcony on the first floor. A bar has also been unearthed with many terra-cotta amphorae still fixed in the ground, and at the end of the counter a small furnace. xA.bove the furnace is a cauldron with a lid in which was found some liquid that had been placed there on the day of the great catastrophe. Other important discoveries consist of two porticoes, almost intact, of a pergola above four shops and a well preserved building containing a crypto-portico composed of three large corridors looking on to a garden. A few yards outside the Porta Vesuvio along the Publia Road, Pompeii, three sepulchral monuments have been brought to light, and hopes are entertained that this is the beginning of the unearthing of the long-sought Pompeian suburban necropolis spoken of by Pliny. The Streets of Pompeii are for the most part narrow and irregular, although there are a few better constructed than the rest, which form the main arteries for traffic. It would not be possible for more than one vehicle of the narrowest kind to drive along them, and this would seem to indicate that the commercial activity of Pompeii was never very great. The marks of chariot wheels are still to be seen on the rough blocks of lava which form the pavement of the roadway ; in some streets there are regular ruts, while in others the marks cross and recross in various ways. On either side of most of the 124 NAPLES. streets are footways, in some instances raised so higli above the road as almost to suggest that streets were used as channels for the rain, etc. But so far from this being the case, it has been discovered that the sewage system of Pompeii was perfect, many of its ramifications under different streets having been unearthed. The water of Pompeii was brought from the Sarno by an aqueduct. Men of ancient times would seem to have been quite as much moved by public elections as men of the present. For in many of the streets inscriptions, in the red paint so common to Pompeii, call upon the citizens to vote for such and such a person, as ^dile for his native town, and the contest seems very often to have been keen, for the inscriptions tabulate all the virtues of the candidate, and the deeds which should entitle him to the suffrages of the citizens. In one respect the ancients were superior to the burgesses of the present day ; they did not think it necessary to call attention in their election placards to the weaknesses, fancied or real, of their opponents. The chief streets are — ■ The Do7nitiana^ or Consoiare, leading from the Forum to the Gate of Herculaneum, receiving smaller streets on either side. The Strada deW Abbo/ida?iza, ox Street of Abundance, which leads from the Forum to the Gate of Sarno. The Street of Nola extends into the Street of Fortune, and of the Baths, and leads in a direct line from the Gate of Nola to the Forum. The Street of the Forum, in a line with the Street of Mercury, leading from the Forum to the city walls. The Walls were the chief fortification of Pompeii, and were well and carefully built ; although the stones were not cemented in any way. Their construction was peculiar, and consisted of two parts — -the outer wall was about 25 feet high, and the inner about 30 betw^een these two walls ran a rampart, about 15 feet in width, upon which the defenders stood. On the city side the walls were strengthened by an agger, or inclined buttress, which was carved in some parts into steps, wide enough to admit the passage of large bodies of men. At different stages along the walls are traces of towers. In the Museums — near the Porta della Marina and near the Temple of Fortuna — -will be found a variety of articles taken from the houses at different times during the excavations. Among them are jewellery, carvings, household utensils, surgical instruments, tools, vases, cups, masks, clocks, pastry-moulds, CASTELLAMMARE. 1 25 theatre tickets, etc. A strange interest will attach to the examination of these articles, as they bring vividly to mind the dwellers in the houses which have been examined by the visitors. And a mournful interest will attach to the few ghastly figures, casts of skeletons and bodies, found among the ruins. Further interesting excavations were opened to the public in 1915- Boscoreale. About 2\ miles north of Pompeii is the Roman Villa referred to on page 112, which can be visited by special permission of the proprietor, Signor de Prisco. Most of the contents of the Villa have been removed, but it is interesting to see the oil and wine presses, and the large earthenware vessels sunk in the floor into which the wine flowed direct from the presses. Valle di Pompei. [Hotel, see p. iii.] Before or after visiting Pompeii the traveller should go by train or carriage a short distance {\ mile) to see the new church of the Virgine del Rosario, erected by subscriptions from all parts of the world, within the last few years. It contains a miraculous image of the Virgin, and is visited yearly by 100,000 pilgrims. There is a remarkably fine organ, which may be heard every morning after the arrival of the first train from Naples. It has 60 stops, and is the first built in South Italy on the German system with latest improvements. NAPLES TO CASTELLAMMARE, SORRENTO & CAPRI. From Torre Annunziata {see p. 89) a short railway journey conducts to Castellammare, crossing the mouth of the Sarno, and passing on the right the rocky island of Revigliano, with its ancient fort. CASTELLAMMARE DI STABIA. [Hotel — see p. iii.] British Vice=Consul. Castellammare (population about 34,000), a busy trading and fishing town, is built on a slope of the Monte d'Auro, a 126 naplp:s. spur of the range known as Monte S. Angelo. It stands on the site of the ancient Stabise, which was destroyed in the eruption of a.d. 79, wherein Phny the Elder was suffocated. The town offers a cool and delightful retreat in hot weather ; it is sheltered from the east winds in winter ; abounds in mineral waters efficacious in gout, rheumatism, and paralysis ; is surrounded with suburbs of unrivalled beauty, and com- mands views which generations of artists have in vain striven to reproduce on canvas. The town consists of two main streets running parallel with the coast for about a mile. On a hill to the south is the ruined castle which gives its name to the town. This fort, built by the Emperor Frederick II. (13th century), was afterwards strengthened by Charles I. and Alphonso I. The quay and the port are generally thronged by busy traders and workmen. The port has an arsenal and dockyard, where some of the ships of the Italian navy are built. Castellammare owes its chief reputation to its chalybeate springs, which flow from the base of Monte d'Auro, and have been for centuries regarded as valuable remedies in cases of gout, rheumatism, and paralysis. Analyses of twelve different springs have been made, and their various properties are recorded for the benefit of visitors. The neighbourhood is extremely beautiful, and affords delightful excursions either on foot or on donkey-back. The following are the most interesting : — To the Villa, or Casino, Quisisana, which is now the property of the municipality, built in the 14th century by Charles II. of Anjou. The view from the terrace (fee 25c.) is fine, and the gardens are well worth seeing. The Bosco, or Park, is open free to the public. Beauti- ful wooded walk to Monte Coppola (990 feet) ; return to Castellammare by the Monastery (converted into a naval hospital) of S. Maria a Puzzaiio, founded by Gonsalvo da Cordova. To Qragnano, 3 miles by train (or drive), a town of about 12,000 inhabitants, noted for its wine and for its manufactory of macaroni. To Lettere, a village about 3 miles north-east of Gragnano, beautifully situated on a slope of the mountains, and com- manding splendid views. SORRENTO. 127 To Monte Faito (3,620 feet). An easy and enjoyable excursion, part of which can be made by carriage. Extensive and delightful prospect from the summit. To Monte Sant' Angelo, a journey of 4-5 hours. The highest point, 4,722 feet above the sea, commands magnifi- cent views of the bays of Naples, Gaeta, and Salerno, and of the Apennines. A guide is necessary, and can be hired, with donkey. The tourist should ask to be conducted to the peak crowned by the chapel, or he will be taken to another point where the view is interrupted. For carriages with one, two, or three horses, arrangements should be made beforehand. The road from Castellammare to Sorrento (11 miles) is one of the most picturesque in the district. It passes Vice Cquense, Meta, the village of Carotto, Pozzopiano, sur- rounded by orange gardens, and Saiif Agnello. Electric trams every \ hour (12 miles in about \\ hours). The novelist, F. Marion Crawford, who died April 9, 1909, lived at Sant' Agnello for many years. Sorrento [Hotels — see p. iii.] (population, about 7,000) has attractions similar to those of Castellammare, and some peculiarly its own. Deep ravines border it on three sides, and on the fourth a deep precipice rising out of the sea. The walks in these ravines are charming, especially in the evening. In the Hotel Traino/ihiiio, from November to May, Church Service is held by an English chaplain. The church itself is one of the most comfortable and handsomely decorated English churches on the continent. The Tarantella, or National Dana, may be seen at the Hotel Tramontano. Sorrento is a good stopping-place, either in summer or in winter. (Steamers, see p. 1 28) In summer it is frequented chiefly by Italians for the bathing season, and for its cool northern aspect. All the hotels are situated in gardens, and have private roads and stairs descending to their bathing establishments. In winter visitors of every nationality frequent Sorrento, especially English and Americans. Hotels and lodging-houses are numerous ; fish, fruit, wine, dairy produce, 128 NAPLES. etc., plentiful and good ; the neighbourhood replete with delightful excursions. Carriages, horses, donkeys, boats, etc., are provided for visitors, according to specified tariffs. Sorrento possesses in itself few antiquities or objects of interest. It was the birthplace of the poet Tasso, and the Hotel Tasso contains the room in which he laboured. His statue stands in the Piazza del Castello. The Cathedral is on the site of an ancient temple, of which two marble pillars support a canopy in the nave. La Sedile is a Museum, with Greek and Roman bas-reliefs, etc. Amongst the excursions which may be made from Sorrento may be noted the following : To Capo di Sorrento {\\ mile), with Roman remains, etc. ; Deserto, with monastery (fine views from the roof) ; Sant' Agata ; the Telegrafo ; Soprala Vaccina, to the Piccolo Sant' Angelo, descending on the east of Sorrento, six hours in all. Donkeys may be hired {see above). Santa Maria a Castello is visited by many on August 1 5th, to see the magical effect of Positano lit up for its fete. Numerous other walks and excursions will easily be discovered by enquiry. The road to Massa Lubrense, beyond the Capo di Sorrento, is a favourite evening drive or walk {2\ miles), commanding as it does delightful points of view. From Massa excursions to Termini and to the Punta di Campanella. A new road has been made from Sorrento to Amalfi (p. 134), passing Meta, Positano, Praiano, and Conca — a magnificent drive of 15 miles. Splendid inland views between Meta and Positano, whence the beautiful coast is skirted all the way to Amalfi. At Sorrento the steamer calls from Naples en route for Capri and the Blue Grotto about 10.10 a.m.; in good wenther the voyage occupies about one hour ; but when there is any force of wind from the north or east, the Blue Grotto is not accessible. Capri. [Hotels — see p. iii.J Weather permitting, steamers leave Naples daily for Capri. One steamer leaves the harbour at S. Lucia and the Castel deir Ovo daily at 9 a.m. for Sorrcfito, the Blue Grotto and Capri — returning 4 p.m. same day to Naples. The mail steamers of the Neapolitan S. N. Co. (Governmental) leave the CAPRI. 129 Immacolatella at 4.30 p.m. daily, calling at Vuo, Equa, Meta, Sorrento^ Afassa, and Capri, returning from Capri at 6.30 p.m. The island of Capri consists of little else than a picturesque and rugged mass of rock standing in the sea, of stern and forbidding aspect, containing the two small towns of Capri and Anacapri. The town of Capri is like a village of Syria, the roofs of the houses being flat or domed, and essentially Oriental. The inhabitants wear the most picturesque of costumes, and are the pleasantest of village folks. Artists flock here every year, and find fresh scenes in abundance. The wild, precipitous cliffs remind one of Norway ; the village reminds one of Egypt and Syria ; the patches of luxuriant vegetation in the midst of rugged rocks remind one of the Isles of Greece ; and yet Capri is unlike all other places — it is Capri. Holy Week is observed with much ceremony in all the churches on the island. Following the celebration of Mass in the cathedral on the morning of Holy Thursday, there is the washing of the feet of the twelve oldest and poorest men on the island by the priests. On Good P>i(lay the entire popula- tion joins in a procession headed by the priests and members of the Misericordia. The chief landing-place is at the Marina Grande, on the north side of the island ; there is another landing-place at the Marina Piccola on the south side, which is used when the north wind is blowing hard. The distance to the town of Capri is about the same from either Marina, namely 30 minutes. At the Marina Grande (where there is good sea-bathing, as also at the Ragni di Tiberio) are several hotels and restaurants ; others on the road to Capri ; and others again in the towns of Capri and Anacapri, Many of these are full during the winter and spring, and visitors intending to make a stay in the island are recommended to secure rooms in advance. Pensions, and fairly comfortable furnished apartments can be obtained at reasonable rates. Physicians speaking a little English will be found at Capri ; also a British Consular A^rent, a U.S. Consular Aji;'ent, and an International Club with English newspapers, billiard, and concert rooms. English Church Service (All Saints) in winter. The ascent from the landing-places is very steep, and is generally made in the saddle or in a carriage ; donkeys and 130 NAPLES. carriages can be obtained on the beach. There is now a funicular railway from the Marina Grande to Capri. Fare I 1. 90 c. Capri in recent years has become one of the most favourite spots in the Bay of Naples, frequented by some 40,000 visitors annually in autumn, winter, and spring, and by many Italian families during the summer. The climate is healthy, being sunny and free from moisture, but inconvenience is often experienced from the excess of dust, and the absence of shade. The mean winter temperature is 50° Fahr. The student will be interested in Capri, from its associations with Augustus and Tiberius. With the latter, this island w\is a constant and favourite retreat ; here he ruled the great Roman Empire ; " here he committed, or ordered, some of the most atrocious of his cruelties ; here he wrote the ' verbose and grand epistle ' to the Senate at Rome, immortalised in its infamy by Juvenal ; here the arbiter of the fate of millions trembled in his old age at what might be his own destiny, and sat on the ' august rock of Capreas,' with a Chaldean band, to consult the stars." From Capri town many interesting walks and excursions, most of them steep and fatiguing, can be made. The easiest of all is to the Punta Trag-ara (Cafe-Restaurant), a promontory com- manding a fine view of the south coast and of the precipitous cliffs called the Faraolioni. Small path down to the sea-shore. Another path leading at some considerable distance to the Arco Naturale, whence good view of the east coast. Another walk of about an hour to the north-east promontory leads to the ruins of the Villa di Tiberio, built byjTiberius, and dedicated to the twelve deities, some of the \aulted rooms being now used as cow-houses. The visitor will enjoy from this point the glorious views around, the deep blue sea below, the islands in the distance across the bay, and the mountains on the right. The return journey may be made by the Via Matermania to the gorge leading to the Arco Naturale, turning aside to visit the Qrotto di Matromania (Roman Remains), and regaining the road to the Punta Tragdra previously mentioned. The hills commanding Capri are San Michele (804 feet) with ancient ruins and a Stalactite Grotto (private property;, and the Castiglione (820 feet), with a dilapidated castle on the top (gratuity). For any of these excursions guides may be dispensed CAPRI. 131 with, and boys to show the way can be had for a Hra during a whole morning or afternoon. From Capri town a visit may be made to Anacapri, 2\ miles, by a road cut in the rock, commanding beautiful views, the second town of the island; pop., 2,500. There are Roman ruins in the neighbourhood. [Hotels, see p. iii.] From Anacapri good walkers should make the ascent of Monte Salaro (1,920), on the south side of the island, rising abruptly from the sea. The view, or, rather, two views from the summit are superb, taking in the Bay and suburbs of Naples, with the Apennines, Vesuvius, Salerno, Prestum, Sorrento, etc., on one side, and the long land and sea view to Calabria. The greatest attraction of all is a visit to the Blue Grotto ( Grotta Azzurrd) This is made from the steamer in small boats, by travellers who are not making a stay on shore. Fare to the Grotto and back, \\ fr. For resident visitors on the island a boat may be hired at the Marina Grande, changing into a smaller boat at the Grotto. Time required, 2 hours — a most delightful excursion along the rocky shore. This natural curiosity is alone worth the journey to the island. It can only, however, be entered when the sea is calm, and even then the visitor must bend his head low in the boat, as the low rocky arch is entered. On rising, he finds himself in fairyland. "The walls and roof are all radiant with precious stones of a clear, rich blue, not seen to perfection until nearly half an hour has passed, but every moment becoming more radiant." The hand, or any object, placed in the water seems as if silvered over. " Throw a stone into the water," says a writer, " and a myriad of tiny bubbles that are created flash out a brilliant glare like blue theatrical fires. Dip an oar and its blade turns to a splendid, frosted silver, tinted with blue. Let a man jump in, and he is instantly cased in an armour more gorgeous than ever knightly Crusader wore." An official tariff fixes the charges for boats and admission to Grotto, but gratuities are expected. On the south side of the island may be seen the Passagio e Grotta Verde (Green Passage and Grotto), from the colour refracted by the sea, but they are greatly inferior in beauty to the Blue Grotto. In perfectly calm weather a voyage round the island may well be made in a l)oat with four rowers at a cost of 40-50 1. 132 NAPLES. in about 4 hours ; or a shorter excursion can be recommended from the Marina Grande round the east side of the island, which is the most attractive, passing the Grotta del Bove Marino, curious-shaped rocks, the Grotta Bianca, the Faraglioni, and the Grotta del Arsenale to the Marina Piccola, and return to Capri. From Capri the traveller can return direct to Naples by steamer or sailing boat (15 miles), and enjoy the exquisite panorama of the shores of the bay, or proceed to Sorrento. NAPLES TO SALERNO, AMALFI (BATTIPAQLIA), P/ESTUM. Naples to Pompeii {see p. 89). On leaving Pompeii, the line crosses the plain of the Sarno to VaUe di Po7npei {see p. 125) ; Scafati (festival of Santa Maria dei Bagni, August 15th); Angri, near which the Goths were finally vanquished by Narses, a.d. 553 ; Fagant, with Church of S. Michele, and body of S. Alphonso de' Ligucri (founder of the Redemptorists) under a glass case. Nocera Inferiore (population 12,000) was the birthplace of Hugo de Pagani (founder of the Templars) and of the painter Solimena. The chief feature of interest is the Castello in Parco, or citadel, where Helena, widow of Manfred, and her son Manfredetto, died in prison, after the battle of Benevento. Many historical events are connected with this edifice. Leaving Nocera, we soon pass on the right the ancient church of Santa Maria Mag'giore, with antique columns, etc., and 14th-century frescoes. It was originally a temple. After passing Nocera Siiperiore we reach Cava dei Tirreni [Hotels — see p. iii.], a justly cele- brated summer and autumn retreat (population 25,000) with delightful neighbourhood, whose charms are said to have often inspired the pencil of Salvator Rosa. A lovely walk through the wood, or a drive by the carriage road, conducts to Corpo di Cava, where may be visited the renowned Benedictine Abbey, La Trinita della Cava, founded in 1025. The church, the tombs, and the library, especially the archives, and the small picture gallery, are all worthy of careful notice. Admission daily, 9 till sunset, except on festivals. The return journey may be made by the Grotta Bonea. SALERNO. 133 From Cava the line passes through a charming district of which the author of "Pictures in Italy " says : "The railroad as far as Vietri winds along a valley, from which the mountains rise in grand and massive forms. A rapid stream, having innumerable water-mills, gives vivacity to the scene. A rich semi-tropical vegetation extends far up the mountain sides. The inhabitants, as yet little affected by the tide of tourists which the railway brings, retain their old usages and old customs almost unchanged. Here, as throughout the Mar- emma, labourers from the Abruzzi may be seen celebrating the ingathering of the harvest, wnth songs and dances which have come down from a remote antiquity, and bear unmistakable traces of the Pagan festivities in honour of Bacchus and Ceres." Pleasant walk or carriage drive io Salerno /ro?n Vietri ^ hour ; to Amalfi, 2\ hours. After passing Vietri (station Vietri sul inare)^ a picturesque town, charmingly situated, the railway descends to Salerno. British Vice=Consul. Salerno (pop. about 32,000) is beautifully situated on a'lovely bay, its principal streets running parallel to its crescent-shaped beach. The old town gradually rises on the slopes of a spur of the Apennines, from the summit of which frown the ruins of the ancient Citadel, besieged for eight months by Robert Guiscard. Salerno (anc. Saler/imu) was celebrated by the Latin poets for the charms of its situation. In the Middle Ages it was an important town, and experienced varied fortunes as successive Lombard, Norman, Suabian, or other princes possessed it. Its chief mediaeval fame rests on its noted university, which for centuries was the headquarters of the medical knowledge of the period. In Longfellow's "Golden Legend" some graphic pictures are given of the Salernian Schools. The Cathedral (San Matteo) was built by Robert Guiscard in 1084, and Paestum {see p. 136) was rifled of works of art to embellish it. It was restored in 1768, greatly to the detri- ment of its original simple grandeur. The' quadranjfle in front contains 28 ancient columns, and 14 toml)s, formed of ancient sarcophagi. The Bronze doors (1099), executed K 2 134 NAPLES. at Constantinople, and presented by Landolfo Butromile, were originally inlaid with silver. Inthe Nave are two amhones or lecterns, anarchbishop's chair, richly decorated with mosaics. Marble columns from Psestum. Tomb of Margaret of Anjou (Queen of Charles of Durazzo). In the chapel to the right of the high altar is the Tomb of liildebrand (Gregory VII.), who died in exile at Salerno in 1085. Various Pagan sarcophagi have been placed in this church and used for Christian interment. On the altar of the Sacristy is a curious piece of work, comprising fifty-four Bible subjects, carved in ivory, about a.d. 1200. The Crypt contains interesting tombs, and is richly decorated with mosaics, etc. The Campanile has two storeys left, dating from a.d. 1130. the rest more modern. In the churches of San Giorgio and San Lorenzo are paintings and frescoes by the celebrated Andrea Sabbatini of Salerno. The Corso Garibaldi, on which is the Grand Theatre, is a delightful promenade of a mile and a half leading to the harbour. From Salerno a pleasant carriage drive of 15 miles (2^ to 3 hours) leads to Amalfi [Hotels — see p. iii], a bright busy town of 5,000 inhabitants. It can also be reached from Sorrento, about 20 miles, in four hours, by a new carriage road; from Vietri, 12 miles; from Castellammare 6 hours by the little Piccolo Sant' Angelo, rough and picturesque. Steam- boat services by the Neapolitan S.N. Co. twice a week from Salerno or Capri. The most frequented route is by carriage or boat from Salerno. The cliff-road from Salerno by Maiori, Minori, and Atrani offers great attractions ; the landscapes and the sea views are charming. Amalfi stands on a rocky eminence, at the entrance of a wild ravine, in the midst of the most picturesque scenery. Wild precipices form a striking background to the romantic-looking town. Amalfi is the traditional birth-place of Flavio Gioja, the alleged inventor of the Mariner's Compass. The town is of mediaeval origin ; it was long an independent state under its AMALFI. 135 own doge. It now numbers little more than a tithe of its ancient population. The following are the chief features of interest : — Cattedrale Sant' Andrea, nth century. Byzantine bronze doors. Interior, with marble columns, mosaics, etc. Font, an ancient porphyry vase. Ancient columns, sarcophagi, etc. In the Crypt is the body of St. Andrew, from which the celebrated Manna di Sant' Andrea is said to exude. The centenary of the translation (1208) of the relics of the saint from Constantinople to Amalfi was celebrated by a pageant in 1908. Bronze doors executed at Constantinople, bearing inscriptions in silver letters, dated 1066. Colossal bronze Statue of St. Andrew Michael Angela N'accherino. Altar, designed by ... . Dojnetiico Fojitana. Handsome Bell-tower (1276). Monastery of the Cappuccini, now the Hotel Cappuccini. Cloisters, arcades, and adjacent grotto are interesting. Many very pleasant excursions may be made from Amalfi, either with boats or donkeys, or on foot, the most attractive being to Ravello, with its Cathedral, which can be reached by carriage in about i hour, or donkeys can be hired for 2 fr. for the journey. Ravello [Hotels — see p. iii], which now contains less than 2,000 inhabitants, was a very prosperous town in the 13th century, with a population of 35-40,000, thirty churches, many palaces, and several monasteries. The Cathedral (Romanesque) was founded in 1086, em- bellished in 11 79 and 1272, is now greatly modernised. The interior shows a splendid marble pulpit, and a marble lectern, both inlaid with mosaics, as is also the Episcopal Throne in the choir. The bronze doors are by Barisanus of Trani. Other churches can be visited if time allows, but a visit should certainly be paid to the Palazzo Rufolo, one of the most ancient and best preserved palaces in Italy, dating from the nth century. By permission of the proprietor visitors are admitted to the palace, also to the gardens, from the terrace of which, 1,200 feet above sea- level, there is a superb view (small fee to the gardener). 136 NAPLES. From Amalfi to Sorrento a new carriage road was opened in 1895 — a lovely coast drive passing Praiano, Positano and Met a {see p. 128). Leaving Salerno by rail, fine sea and mountain views are seen, and passing stations Ponteca^nano and Alontecorvino, visitors to Passtum change at Battipa^lia (buffet), the junction (45^ miles from Naples) for Paestum {see below), and Reggio. The train passes through a marshy uninteresting country (13 miles), in about | of an hour, to Paestum. (Special excursions are arranged from Cook's Office, Galleria Vittoria, Via Chiatamone, Naples {see p. 66). Paestum (anc. Poseido/iia), in Italian Pesto, was founded by the Greeks about 600 B.C., and became a Roman colony 273 B.C. It was devastated by the Saracens in the 9th century, and despoiled of its sculptures, etc., by Robert Guiscard, in the nth. The majestic ruins are now the sole attraction of the place. Wild vegetation, stagnant water, and malaria charac- terise the district, which is, moreover, infested by lizards and small snakes. The ruins consist of ancient travertine Town Walls, three miles in circumference ; remains of Aqueduct and Gates ; Tombs, from which many objects have been transferred to the Naples iVEuseum ; a Temple of Neptune (66|- yards by 26| yards), with 36 columns ; the so-called Basilica, 50 columns ; a Temple of Ceres, with 38 columns ; a few fragments of a Theatre, Amphitheatre, and Roman Temple. A walk along the town walls presents fine views of these imposing ruins. The roses of Paestum, that flowered twice a year, as Latin poets sing, are no more ; in their place a luxuriant growth of fern and acanthus surrounds these massive memorials of Greek art. Many travellers have written enthusiastically of the ruins of Paestum. Admission to the temples, 2 1. ; Sunday free. "Taking into view their immemorial antiquity, their astonishing preservation, their grandeur, their bold columnar elevation, at once massive and open, their severe simplicity of design— their simplicity in which art generally begins, and to which, after a thousand revolutions of ornament, it again returns — taking, I say, all into one view, I do not hesitate to call these the most impressive monuments that I ever beheld on earth." — Forsyth. INDEX. A I'AOK P.\GE Campo Santo Nuovo ... ... 64 Accademia Pontaniana ... 23 Campo Santo Vecchio ... 64 Albergo de' Poveri 35. 64 Cangiani ... 66 Amalfi ... 66 , 128, 134 Capo Coroglio ... 68 Anacapri ... 131 Capodimonte ... 6, 14 Angri ... 132 Capo di Sorrento ... 128 Antignano ... 66 Capri ... 66, 128 Aquaiium 13, 60, 62 . Cariati District ... 14 Archives 34. 53 Caiotto ... ... 127 Arco Felice .. 81 Carriage Drives 5, 65, 66 Armoury • •• 57 Casamicciola ... 66, 82, 83 Arrival at Naples ••• 5 Caserta ... ... 65 Arsenal 9. 15.57 Castles — Astroni ... 69 Capuano 10, 56 del Carmine ... ... 56 B dell' Ovo 15, 56, 128 Nuovo 9, 12, 56 Bagni di Tritoli Bagnoli ... 77 60, 67, 68 .Sant' Elmo ... Castellammare ... 30, 57 65, 125 Baise 13, 65. 67, 77 Catacombs ■ •• 35 Battipaglia ... 136 Cathedral 10, 15 Biblioteca Brancacciana ... 52 Cava dei Tirreni 66, 132 dei (ierolomini •• 53 Cemeteries 14, 64, 65 del Municipio • •• 53 Charitable Institutions ... 63 deir Universita ... 52 Chemists I Blue Grotto ... 131 Churches — Boats ... Booksellers 2 2 S. Agnello Maggiore S. Angelo a Nilo ... S. Anna dei Lombardi .. 35 ... 35 Boscoreale 112, 125 II, 26 Botanic Garden 14, 61 S. Antonio Abate ... ... 63 Bridges — Ponte dell' Immacolat ilia ... 58 SS. Apostoli... Ascencione ... ... 35 ... 35 della Maddalena ... ... 57 S. Barbara ... ... 57 della .Sanita 14, 57 ... 58 S. Brigida ... ... 35 di Chiaia ... S. Carlo all' Arena ... ... 35 S. Caterina a FormelU ... 35 c S. Chiara II, 19, 63 Cab Fares 4 Crocelle, The ... 35 Cafes Chantants ... 61 S. Domenico Maggiore 11, 21 Cafes ... 4 Duomo (si:e Cathedral) Calabritto ... 12 .S. Ferdinando 9, n Camaldoli Monastery ... 65, 66, 88 S. Filippo Neri ... 24 Campo di Marte ... 14 S. Francesco di Paola 15.35 138 INDEX. Churches [coiitiiiiied) — S. Gennaro ... ... 35, 69 S. Gesvi Nuovo ... 11, 34 S. Giacomo degli Spagnuoli 35 S. Giovanni a Carbonara 10, 25 S. Giovanni de' Pappacoda 35 S. Giovanni Evangelista ... 35 S. Giovanni Maggiore ... 35 S. Giuseppe a Chiaia ... 35 S. Gregorio ... ... ... 35 Incoronata ... ... Ii, 27 Madonna di Monte Vergine 67 S. Lorenzo ... ... ... 28 S. Maria degli Angeli ... 35 S. Maria del Carmine 8, 35 S. Maria della Catena ... 35 S. Maria delle Grazie ... 35 S. Maria della Pieta dei Sangri ... ... ... 36 S. Maria della Sanita ... 36 S. Maria del Pianto ... 36 S. Maria di Piedigrotta ... 36 S. Maria donna Regina ... 35 S. Maria la Nuova ... ... 29 S. Martino 14, 30, 57 Monte della Misericordia ... 36 Monte Oliveto ... 11, 26 S. Paolo Maggiore ... ... 35 S. Pietro ad Aram ... ... 36 S. Pietro a Maiella 35 SS. Pietro e Paolo ... ... 36 S. Pietro Martire ... ... 36 del Sannazaro ... ... 35 Santissima Annunziata ... 29 SS. Severino e Sosio ... 33 S. Teresa (Strada di Capodi- monte ... ... ... 36 S. Teresa ( Largo S. Teresella a Chiaia) ... ... ... 36 Cimitero della Pieta ... ... 65 Climate ... ... ... 5 College of Music ... ... 52 Colles Leucogei ... ... 74 Colonna dei Martiri ... ... 59 Conca ... ... ... ... 128 Conducted Tours in Sicily 5 Consuls ... ... 1, 12, 14 Cook's Offices 1,12, 66, 67, 74, 77, 84, 89, 136 Cook's Carriage Drives 5, 65, 66, 67 Interpreters ... ... 5 Corpo di Cava ... 66, 132 Corso Garibaldi Corso Umberto Primo Corso Viltorio Emanuele Cumce Cumana Railway Custom House PAGE 8 10 II 13, 14, 60 65, 67, 80 I 13 67 8 D Dentists Deserto Dockyard English Churches Environs of Naples ... Equa Excursions from Naples Festivals and Fetes Filangieri Museum Fontana Funicular Railways Fuorigrotta Galleria Principe di Napoli Galleria Umberto Primo Galleria Vittoria Gragnano Grotla Nuova di Posilipo Grotta della Sibilla ... Grotta del Morto Grotta della Pace Grotto di Sejano Grotto del Cane H Herculaneum History of Naples Hospitals I Immacolatella ... Industrial Museum Infrascata I 128 57 .1, 13 . 66 . 129 65 4, 62 - 55 ... 84 3. 14 60, 68 10, 59 9> 59 59 60 126 68 76 69 81 69 69 65 89 6 14, 64 , 8 58 15 14 INDEX. 139 PAGE N Interpreters (Cook's) 5 PAGE Ischia 13, 66, 82 Naples to Castellammare, Sorrento, &c. 125 L to Pompeii ... 65, 66, 89 to Salerno, Amalfi, Lago d'Agnano 69 Pffistum 132 Lake Avernus 76 to Vesuvius ... . 66, 84 Lake Lucrinus 75 National Archives 34. 53 Largo del Castello 59 Library, The 45 della Carita 10 Nazaret 66 Lava Ornaments, etc 4 Nisida Island 68 Lazzarone, The II Nocera Inferiore 132 Lettere 126 Nocera Superiore 132 Libraries ... ..-45 52, 62 Libraries, Private 53 Liceo Vittorio Emanuele 10, 59 Life of S. Januarius ... 18 Obelisk 23 Lighthouse on Molo ... 60 Observatory ... 55,61,86 M P Madonna deir Arco 63 Passtum ... 66, 136 Map of Naples and Pagani '32 Environs facir gP 66 Palaces — Marinella, The 60 Angri 55 Massa Lubrense ... i 28, 129 Arcivescovile 55 Mercadante Theatre ... 9 Capodimonte ... 6, 14, 54 Mercatello 10 Cuomo 55 Mercato 8 Uonn' Anna 55 Mergellina 13 ,69 Fondi 55 Meta ... 127, 128, 129 Gravina 55 Misenum ... ■•■65, 67, 79 Maddaloni ... 56 Molo Angioinoe .,, 60 Ministeri 55 Molo Piccolo 58 Reale 9. 53 Monastery of S. Chiara 21 Tarsia 23 Monastery of S. Domen ico Parco Margherita 13. 14 Maggiore 23 Parco Savoia 68 Monte Barbaro 75 Piazza Cavour 10, 59 Montecorvino 136 Dante 10, 59 Monte di Dio 12 . 15 S. Domenico 59 Monte d'Auro 125 dei Martiri ... 12, 14, 59 Monte Epomeo 84 del Municipio ... 9, II, 59 Monte Faito 127 Paggeria 15 Monte Nuovo 70 . 75 Medina ... 9,11,59 Monte Oliveto II del Mercato 8, 59 Monte Sant'Angelo ... 127 Plebiscito 15. 59 Monte Santo ... I . 13 , 14 Principe de Napoli 13, 60 Monte Somma 63 Salvator Rosa 14 Museums — ■ S. Ferdinando ... 9, 12, 14 Egyptian 41 Vittoria 12, 15 Filangieri 55 Picture Gallery in the National 10, 36 National Museum ... 46 San Martino 30 Piedigrotta 13, 36, 60, 62 140 INDEX. PAGE P.\GE Pignasecca, The ... 3, 10, 13 Pompeii {continued)— Piliero ... 9 House of Holconius 108 Pizzofalcone .. 12 Julius Polybius... 117 Plan of Naples facing titl 2 page. Marcus Lucretius no Pompeii 65, 89, 90, 98, 132 Meleager 116 Academy of Music ... .. 117 Pansa "5 Admission ... .. 98 Sallust 118 Albergo del Sole .. 121 Siricus ... no .(^rarium .. 102 the Anchor 114 Amphitheatre ... 98, 121 the Augustales ... 100 Aqueduct of Fontana .. 107 the Black Walls 112 Bakehouse ... .. 117 the Boar Hunt 103 Baker's Shop .. 117 the Centaur 116 Basilica, The .. 103 the Chase in Baths, Old Public ... .. 112 the Faun ... 113 "S Stabian... .. 109 the Female Dancers ... 118 Before the Eruption... .. 90 the Figured Capitals ... 112 Casa degli Scienziata .. Ill the Gilded Cupids 116 Casa del Balcone Pensile .. no the Grand Duke of Chalcidicum ... .. 102 Tuscany 112 Children's Tombs ... .. 121 the Great Fountain 115 Church of the Virgine del the Labyrinth ... 115 Rosario .. 125 the Little Fountain "5 Circular Temple .. 104 the Musician 117 City Walls .. 124 the Nereids 116 Crypto Porticus, The ... 102 the Sculptor 107 Curiae .. 102 the Surgeon 118 Curia Isiaca ... .. 108 the Three Floors 118 Custom House .. 118 the Tragic Poet 114 Domitiana ... .. 124 the Vestals 118 Early History of .. 90 the Vettii 119 Eruption, The •• 93 with the Hanging Excavations at .. 96 Balcony no Forum Nundinarium .. 106 How the Cities were Buried 94 Forum, The ... •• 99 Lupanar, The no . Forum, Triangular 104, 108 Macellum no Fullonica, The .. 114 Measures, Standard 100 Funeral Triclinium ... .. 120 Museums ... 97,98,112, 124 Gate of Ilerculaneum 119, 122 Old Public Baths 112 Nola II I, 122 Pantheon JOO Stabise .. 106 Plan of Description ... 98 Gates, Streets, and Walls .. 122 Pompeii Vale 125 Granary, Public .. 100 Porta della Marina . . .97, 98, 122 Greek Temple .. 104 Porta di Ercolano ... 119, 122 Guides .. 98 Porta del Vesuvio ... 122, 123 House of Adonis .. 117 Porta di Nola 122 Albino .. 119 ,, ,, Sarno ... 122, 123 Apollo .. 117 Prison, The 100 Ariadne... ...• .. Ill Public Granary 100 Castor and Pollux .. 116 Ramparts 124 Championnet ... •• 103 Round Tomb 120 Cornelius Rufus .. 108 School of the Gladiators ... 106 Glaucus .. 114 School of Verna 102 INDEX. 141 PAGE Pompeii {contiuued) — Senaculum .. ... ... loi Soap Shop ... ... ... 118 Soldiers' Barracks ... ... 106 Stabian Therma; ... ... 109 Strada dell' Abbondanza 102, 103, 104, 108, 124 deir Anfiteatro ... 121 Consolare ... 117, 1 24 del Lupanare ... ... no di Mercurio ... ... 1 14 Nola ... ... Ill, 124 Stabiana 106, no, III, 121 Street of the Forum... ... 124 Augustales ... ... in Mercury ... ... 124 Theatre ... 104, 108 Tombs ... 98, 119 Street of Fortune in, 113, 124 Streets ... ... ■.123 Temple of yEsculapius ... 107 Apollo ... ... ... 99 Augustus ... ... 100 Fortune 1 12, 113 Hercules ... ... 104 Isis ... ... ... 107 Jupiter 99 Mercury loi Quirinus ... ... loi Theatre, Great ... ... 104 Small ... ... ... 105 of Jupiter and Juno ... 107 Theimopolium ... ... 109 Tombs of the Arria Family 121 Tomb of Cenis and Labeo... 121 Cerinius Restitutus ... 119 Lucius Libella ... ... 120 Mamiffi... ... ... 119 Nasvoleia Tyche ... 120 Quintus... ... ... 120 Scaurus... ... ... 120 Servilia . ... ... 120 the Children ... ... 121 the (iarlands ... ... 1 20 Treasury, The ... ... 103 Triangular Forum ... ... 104 Triumphal Arches ... lOO, 114 Valle di I'ompei ... 125, 132 Via Marina ... ... ... 98 Vicolo del Balcone Pensile 1 10 dei Dodici Dei... ... 103 Villa of Cicero ... ... 120 Diomedes ... ... 121 PAGE Pompeii (continued) — Virgine del Rosario Church 125 Walls ... ... ... 124 Porta Alba 10, 58 Capuana ... ... 10, 58 del Carmine ... ... 8, 58 Nolana ... ... .... 58 Piccolo .' ant'Angelo ... 128 Pontecagnani> ... ... 136 S. Gennaro ... ... 10 Portici ... ... ... 89 Porto d'lschia ... ... 83 Mercantile ... ... 58 Militare 58 Piccolo 58 Posilipo ... 12, 13, 65, 67 Positano 128 Post Offices ... -..1,9, 11,56 Pozzo Piano .. ... ... 127 Pozzuoli ... I, 13, 60, 65, 67, 69 Pozzuoli I, 13, 65, 67, 69, 82 Amphitheatre ... .. 73 Armstrong P'actory ... ... 72 Cathedral ... ... ... 70 History ... ... ... 69 Mineral Springs ... ... 72 Mole, The 72 Piazza Vittorio Emanuele ... 70 Piscina Grande ... ... 73 S. Gennaro Monastery 69, 74 S. Paul's Visit 70 Stadium ... ... ... 74 Statues 70 Temple of Anlinous ... 73 Diana ... ... ... 73 Jupiter Serapis ... ... 70 Neptune ... ... 72 Nymphs ... ... 72 Theatre ... ... ... 74 Tombs ... ... ... 74 Villa Cardiff) 73 of Cicero ... ... T}, Licastro ... ... 73 Lusciano ... ... 73 Praiano ... ... ... 12S Private Parties (Sicily) . 5 Procida 66, 82 Protestant Cemeteries ... 65 Protestant Churches ... I, 12, 13 Pugliano ... ... ... 1 Public Places ... ... ... 59 Pulcinella ... ... 61 Punta di Campanalla ... ... 128 142 INDEX. Railways Ramparts Ravello Reclusorio, The Resina Restaurants Rettifilo Revigliano Riviera di Chiaia pa(;e . 2, 3, 13 - 57 66, 135 14, 64 ... 89 ... 4 ... II ... 125 12, 60 S. Januarius, Life of . Salerno Sanita Bridge ... San Martino Museum. Sant'Agata Sant'Agnello ... Santa Lucia Santa Maria Maggiore Santa Maria a Castello Scafati Schools ... 2, 10 Sebeto River ... Situation of Naples Society for the Protection Animals Solfatara, The... Sopra la Vaccine Sorrento Stabiiie Starsa, La Statues Steamers Strada del Duomo Strada di Chiaia Strada Foria ... Strada San Carlo Streets Stufi di Nerone 05, 127, 9, 10, II, 52 • 2, ... 18 ••• 133 ... 14 ... 30 ... 128 ... 127 15, 128 ... 132 ... 128 ... 132 . 14, 15 ... 60 ... 7 of ... 64 ... 74 ... 128 28, 129 ... 1 26 ••• 75 . 54, 57 82, 128 10, 15 , 14, 15 10, 14 ... 9 ■•• 59 ... 77 Taxi-cabs Telegraph Offices Telegrafo Termini Theatres Toledo, The ... Tomb of Virgil Tombola, The ... Torre Annunziata Torre del Greco Torregaveta Torretta, La Tours from Naples Tramways ... 3. 9, 1,56 128 ... 128 12, 60 I 9, II 3,67 63 88 88 I 13 5,65 u L^niversity 52 Vesuvius ... ... 66, 87 Vesuvius Railway (Coolc's) 66,85 Via Amedeo Via Caracciolo Via del Mille Via Partenope Via Roma Vietri Vico Equense Villa Nazionale.. Villa Pausilypon Villa Quisisana Villa Reale Villa Sarno Vomero, The .. Zoological Station 9, II I3> 14 12, 60 12, 14 .. 60 12, 1.3 ••• 133 127, 129 n, 60, 62 ... 69 ... 126 ... 60 ... 69 i3> 14 62 ADVISETISEMENTS. 143 r H. Roberts & Co., ENGLISH and AMERICAN iil.llllllll[|lill:llillllllllill>llllllllillllll Prescriptions accurately prepared. Complete stock of Proprietary Medicines. Perfumery and Toilet Articles. Invalid Requisites. NAPLES: FLORENCE Via Vittoria 21-22. Via Tornabuoni 17. Telephone 19 62. Telephone 5.28. ROME: Corso Umberto 417.418. Telephone 11.98. ESTABLISHED 1843. I4i ADVERTISEMENTS. Algiers (North Africa). Hotel Continental. Beautiful View. Full South. Modern Comfort. □ n ■ PENSION from 35 frs. No Taxes. AMALFI. HOTEL CAPPUCCINl CONVENTO. ONE OF THE BEST WINTER RESORTS IN EUROPE. This IS an enchanted land ! Paestum with its ruins lies, Round the headlands I at away And its roses all in bloom Sweeps the blue Salernian bay Seem to tinge the fatal skies With its sickle of white sand ; Of that lonely land of doom. Further sUll and furthermost On the dim discovered coast H. W. LONGFELLOW. For a number of years the favourite resort of H.M. The Queen of Sweden. Is the ancient monastery famous for its mcomparably beautiful situation above the south end of Amalfi, ten minutes' walk from the mam carriage road along the sea coast. The hotel has extensive grounds, with a wealth of flowers and fruit trees. Here is the Monk's embowered walk of world-wide fame where Longfellow wrote his poem of Amalfi. Unique as a restful health resort. NO DUST— NO NOISE. Open all the year round. !\'o branch house. A. VOZZI, Proprietor. N.B.-Proprietor of the HOTEL DE L0NDRE3-LA CAVA. A I) I 'J'J R T I SEME NTS. 1 45 r BISKRA, ALGERIA. ROYAL HOTEL (On the Fringe of the Desert). THE ONLY UP-TO-DATE HOTEL. Apartments with private bath,W.C., etc. Latest desirable comfort. CAPRI. Hotel Grotte Bleue MARINA GRANDE. This Hotel IS specially recommended to Travellers for its comfort and good management. Luncheon is served according to arrival cf steamers from Naples. Garden and Terrace overlooking the sea, facing Vesuvius. Luncheon and Dinner served on the Terrace. Charges from 30 to 35 Lire. (i. E. MERCEDI. Proprietor. /46 A I) J 'J': R T si: men ts. CAPRI. The Best Hotels. QUISISANA & GRAND HOTEL, TIBERIO PALACE HOTEL, HOTEL LA PALMA. LA CAVA. HOTEL DE LONDRES Open all the year round— HOTEL ERSTEN RANGES. SKATING-RINK - LAWN-TENNIS. Teleolione N. 10. A favourite summer resort Steam Heating and Electric Light throughout* This town lies about half way between the eastern shore of the in i of Naples and the City of Salerno, in a wonderfully picturesque regioBi, which is also historically most interesting. This Hotel has b:en very favourably known since it was established in 1850, and is in the most convenient locality for the excursions to Paestum, Amalfi and Pompei. There are many charming drives over the hills. One of the most attractive is to the famous old abbey of Cava, which can be visited any day. A. VOZZI, Proprietor. N.B.— Proprietor of the HOTEL CAPPUCCINI, AMALFI. A h I 'E U TIS KM EX TS. 147 NAPLES. GRAND HOTEL SITUATED IN THE FINEST AND MOST SELECT PART OF NAPLES, WITH MAGNIFICENT VIEWS OF THE TOWN, VESUVIUS AND THE BAY. Re-opened January, 1922, entirely renovated. Most up-to-date. New and perfect Sanitary arrangements throughout. 300 beds, 125 private bathrooms. Hot and cold runnmg water m every room. Restaurant Frangais with terrace on the Sea. American Bar. Billiards. Orchestra. Steam Heating throughout. Telegraphic address: "C f^ Ti^m. T\ /f Granotel Naples. '^ ' ^' -Kota, Manager. T. Dombre, Cen. Inspect. BRANCH HOUSES. ^ ("Grand Hotel Quisisana. Capri < Tiherio Palace Hotel. (.HotellaPalma. ij„ /Grand Hotel de Russie. Home -^ ^^,^1 f^3,^3,i^ Lake of Coino Grand Hotel Villa d'Este. Sestri Levaote Grand Hotel. / Hotel B'i lol I Grand Hotel Save Genoa -! iVajeslic. I Hotel Londres and V Conti Continental 'enegal. PassoMendo'al Grand Hotel iVendola. e _• f Grand Hotel Panhons. Semmenng \ ^^^^j E^her^oR Jol ann. Tyrol J Grand Hotel Penegal. 148 ADVE R TfSEMEy TS. NAPLES. BERTOLINI'S PALACE HOTEL AND RESTAURANT. Leading Firsl-Glass Establishment, with every modern improvement. A " Home from Home " for American and English Families. Suites and Bedrooms with Bath and W.C. Quietest, highest and healthiest situation. The best panoramic view in the world. Open all the year round. Tel. Address : BERTOLINIS-NAPLES. Lieber's Code Used' NAPLES. HOTEL CONTINENTAL. QUAI PARTENOPE NEW EMBANKMENT. First-Class : Every modern comfort combined with moderate charges. Rooms with private bath and W.C. Opposite the Pier for Sorrento and Capri Steamers, and two minutes from Cook's Offices. Renovated and enlarged 1 92 1 . A. GARBRECHT, Managing Proprietor. .4 1) 1 "ys" R T/S KM /■■ N 7'.s-. 1 4;t EXCELSIOR HOTELS. ROME and NAPLES. Ihe Smartest Hotels i in Italy. 1 1 (OF THE RITZ-CARLTON GROUP OF HOTELS) ^. ^ -^J loO ABVEH TISEME^^TS. NAPLES. ^ PARKER'S HOTEL . . . Situated on the High . , . CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE. THE MOST ATTRACTIVE PART OF THE CITY. World Known for its Comfort and Good Cuisine. .Va,./cs C5 SKI fmm Harl^tr s /.o.c/. NAPLES. Grand Hotel du Vesuve. FIRST CLASS. Central Situation. Full south on the Bay. Splendid View. 140 Rooms. 70 Bath Rooms. O. G. FIORENTINO, Proprietor. Branch House : GRAND HOTEL VITTORIA. WORLD RENOWNED. SORRENTO. ADVEPTf-^F^MESTS. 151 MICHAELSEN'S ART SHOP & BOOK-STORE No. 2 Via Chiatamone, Naples (not just opposite Cook's Office, but across to the left). A Speciality is made in Beautiful Water- Colour Sketches by Local Artists. (Guaranteed despatch al! over the world.) BAEDEKER'S AND OTHER GUIDE BOOKS. TAUCHNITZ EDITION. NELSON'S CONTINENTAL LIBRARY. KODAKS, FILMS DEVELOPED. STATIONERY, PHOTOGRAPHS, POSTCARDS, SORRENTO-WOODWORK, MOSAICS, FLORENTINE LEATHERWORK. BOOKS OF VIEWS, ETC. " There is in Naples a Danish bookseller, who will tell any travelling Englishman all he wants to know about modern English books. Whether the Dane knows very much about books himself is another matter, but he knows quite enough to act as guide, philosopher, and friend — and long practice has made him a master of these parts — to the tourist. He has another quality, more valuable, and one which enables him to sustam the others, that of being thankful for and eager to profit by such information about books as the traveller may give him in passing. Thus, what he has learnt from the man who left yesterday he hands on to the man who arrives to-day. And what he knows about English books, he knows equally ab )ut French, Italian, and German books, not to mention those produc"d by his own particular nation. Among other nations, I have not followed but I am sure he ould prattle pleasantly abiut them all. Where shall we find such sn English book-seller as this?" — Academy, \U-i 18. 1907. Any General Information giaaiy giv«n. 152 AnVERTTSJCMK V TS. GIORGIO SOMMER, ^ NAPLES. Photographer to H.R.H. the King of Italy and H.R.H. the Duchess of Aosta. Sale Saloons and Exhibition : VIA CALABRITTO 2 & 3. Telephone : 51-48. Established 1857. Largest Photograph Establishment The best and most extensive collection of Photographs, Views, Architectures, Sculptures, Paintings of the important Places and (. alleries in Italy, Sicily, Tunis, Malta, Sw.tzerland and Tyrol. K^nHilVf Eastman's Kodaks, Films. Development, Printing, Dark JVUUctlV.. Rooms. Enlarging, etc. ¥ otll'O'nn QlirlfiG °^ ^'^ Views and the celebrated collection l-n Sea and the Valley of Mount Etna. TENNIS COURT. Steam Healing. Apartments with Bath and Toilet. M. & V MARCUCCI & PAGGIARIN & CO.. Managing Proprietors. A I) I K li TISEMKNTS. 15?> TUNIS. MAJESTIC HOTEL. VEDRINE FRERES, Proprietors. FIRST CLASS IN EVERY RESPECT. American Bar. Restaurant. Orchestra. Apartments. Private Bathrooms. Toilet, W.C. TUNIS. Tunisia Palace Hotel NEWLY OPENED. THIS magnificent newly built Hotel is the finest and largest in town. Central situation. 150 Rooms and Saloons. Apart- ments with Baths and Douches. Hot and Cold running water in all rooms. Every possible comfort. Lift. Electric Light. Readmg and Smokmg Rooms. Large Hall. American Bar. Superior Cooking. Restaurant of the highest order. Prospectus with terms and full partxulars on application to F. TUOR, Proprietor. In Summer, DISENTISERHOF-DISENTIS Ct. des Crisons, Switzerland. 1st CLASS CLIMATIC STATION. 1150 M. above Sea Level BEAUTIFUL SPRING SEASON FROM ISt'i JUNE. IGO A I) I Kli TH^EMKNTS. THE OCEAN Accident and Guarantee Corporation, LIMITED. DIRECTORSc E. Roger Owen, Esq., C/iairnian. Arthur M. Asquith, Esq., D.S.O. Jkrkmiah Colman, Esq., J. P. The Right Hon. the Eakl of Dunmore, V.C. Richard J. Palll, Esq. The Hon. Jasi'EK N. Ridley. Sir Clarence Smith, J. P. W. SINGLETON HOOPER, Alanager and Secirtary. Assets - £7,472,880 Claims paid - £25,000,000 Accidents and Illness. Employers' Liability. Fidelity Guarantees. Fire and Burglary. Motor Cars. Public Liability. Inspection and Insurance of Boilers, Engines, Electrical Plant and Lifts. Executorships and Trusteeships. ibcaD ©ttice: MOORGATE, LONDON, E.C.2. V Harrison & Sons, Ltd., I'rinters in Orcinary to His Majesty, St. >hirtin s Lane, W.C. 2 y University of California SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 305 De Neve Drive - Parking Lot 17 • Box 951388 LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA 90095-1388 Return this material to the library from which it was borrowed. AA 001 090 711 1