\ 
 
T 
 
 YACHT YOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND 
 
 WILLIAM H. G. KINGSTON 
 
 - \\ 
 author of 
 
 ' captain cook ; his life, voyages, and discoveries : ' ' the voyage of the steadfast 
 
 'the golden grasshopper,' etc., etc. 
 
 -NEW EDITION, REVISED AND ENLARGED 
 
 THE EELIGIOUS TKACT SOCIETY 
 
 56 PATEKNOSTER EOW ; 65 ST. PAUL's CHUECHYAED 
 AND 164 PICCADILLY 
 
GIFT OF 
 
 PROFESSOR C.A. lOFOfO 
 
 1! OC«»o • 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 
 Chapter page 
 
 I. The Start 9 
 
 II. In the Solent 28 
 
 III. The South Coast 61 
 
 IV. The South Coast— continued 92 
 
 V. Land's End . . . • • • • • .118 
 
 VI. A Shipwreck . . . . • • • • . J41 
 
 VII. Out in the Lifeboat . . . • • . • 167 
 
 VIII. Liverpool and Glasgow 198 
 
 IX. The Caledonian Canal 222 
 
 X. Another Wreck . . . . • • • .240 
 
 XI. The North-east Coast 263 
 
 XII. Yarmouth . . . 286 
 
 XIII. Safe in Port .30? 
 
 iv)2i693i 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 West Cowes Frontispiece 
 
 Birth-place of Isaac Watts, Southampton . 13 
 
 St. Michael's Gaol, Southampton 14 
 
 In the New Forest 16 
 
 Netley Abbey and Hospital 19 
 
 The Forts at Spithead . . . • 23 
 
 The Minotaur : 37 
 
 The Undercliff 42 
 
 The Dolphin 46 
 
 Osborne House 4S 
 
 Cauisbrook Castle 55 
 
 The Needles 57 
 
 Scratchells Bay 59 
 
 SwANAGE Bay . 60 
 
 Christchurch and Neighbourhood 63 
 
 Bournemouth 65 
 
 Keep of Corfe Castle 67 
 
 The Isle of Portland 73 
 
 Teignmouth Pier 83 
 
 The Beach, Babbicombe 84 
 
 Torbay 86 
 
 Torquay 88 
 
 The Beach, Sidmouth 91 
 
 Dartmouth 93 
 
 Butter Row, Dartmouth 94 
 
 The Hiver Dart 95 
 
 Plymouth Sound, from Mount Edgecumbe 109 
 
 Mount Edgecumbe no 
 
 St. Michael's Mount, Cornwall 130 
 
 First and Last House, Land's End 133 
 
 Longships Lighthouse - 137 
 
8 ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 botallack mine, cornwall 1 39 
 
 Ruins of Perranzabuloe Church 155 
 
 Hugh Town, St. Mary's Scilly . 158 
 
 CONSTANTINE TOLMEN StONE, CORNWALL •. .l6l 
 
 Remnant of Tresco Abbey 166 
 
 TiNTAGEL Castle 169 
 
 Bideford 173 
 
 Clovelly 176 
 
 Ilfracombe 178 
 
 The Mumbles, Swansea 182 
 
 To the Rescue! 192 
 
 Caernarvon Castle 202 
 
 Tubular Bridge over the Menai Straits 204 
 
 Conway Castle 208 
 
 Sailor's Home, Liverpool 211 
 
 Strand Street, Liverpool 212 
 
 AiLSA Crag 216 
 
 Glasgow University 220 
 
 Old Liverpool 221 
 
 loNA 224 
 
 Fingal's Cave 225 
 
 DuNVEGAN Castle 230 
 
 Loch Leven . 233 
 
 The Breeches Buoy 244 
 
 King's College, Aberdeen 252 
 
 Bell Rock Lighthouse 256 
 
 Dundee • 259 
 
 The Bass Rock 262 
 
 Monument to Grace Darling 267 
 
 Warkworth Castle 271 
 
 Newcastle on Tyne 274 
 
 Scarborough Castle 277 
 
 Whitby 279 
 
 Cromer before the recent extensions 283 
 
 A Yarmouth Row 289 
 
 The Toll House, and Entrance to Yarmouth Gaol 291 
 
 The Beach, Yarmouth 294 
 
 Towing out Luggers from Yarmouth Harbour 299 
 
 Herring Fishing 300 
 
 The 'Short Blue' Fleet in the North Sea 304 
 
 A Shrimp Boat 306 
 
 Dover 314 
 
 Beachy Head -317 
 
A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 CHAPTEE I. 
 
 THE START. 
 
 !E had come home from school much earlier 
 
 than usual, on account of illness having 
 
 broken out there ; but, as none of the 
 
 boys were dangerously ill, and those in 
 
 the infirmary were very comfortable, we 
 
 were not excessively unhappy. I suspect 
 
 that some of us wished that fever or 
 
 some other sickness would appear two 
 
 or three weeks before all the holidays. 
 
 However, as we had nothing to complain 
 
 of at school, this, I confess, was a very 
 
 ^'' unreasonable wish. 
 
 The very day of our arrival home, when we were seated at dinner, 
 
 and my brother Oliver and I were discussing the important subject 
 
 of how we were to spend the next ten or twelve weeks, we heard 
 
> • • •• • • 
 
 10 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND, 
 
 our papa, who is a retired captain of the Koyal Navy — and who was 
 not attending to what we were talking about — say, as he looked 
 across the table to mamma : 
 
 ' Would you object to these boys of ours taking a cruise with me 
 round England this summer ? ' 
 
 We pricked up our ears, you may be sure, to listen eagerly to the 
 reply. Looking at Oliver, then at me, she said : 
 
 ' I should like to know what they think of it. As they have never 
 before taken so long a cruise, they may get tired, and wish themselves 
 home again or back at school.' 
 
 ' Oh no, no ! we should like it amazingly. We are sure not to get 
 tired, if papa will take us. We will work our passage ; will pull and 
 haul, and learn to reef and steer, and do everything we are told,' 
 said Oliver. 
 
 ' What do you say about the matter, Harry ? ' asked papa. 
 'I say ditto to Oliver,' I replied. ' W"e will at all events try to be 
 of use ; ' for I knew from previous experience that it was only when 
 the weather was fine, and we were really not wanted, that we were 
 likely to be able to do anything. 
 
 * Then I give my consent,' said mamma ; on which we both jumped 
 up and kissed her, as we had been accustomed to do when we were 
 little chaps ; we both felt so delighted. 
 
 ' Well, we shall be sorry to be away from you so long,' said Oliver, 
 when we again sat down, looking quite grave for a moment or two. 
 ' But then, you know, mamma, you will have the girls and the small 
 boys to look after ; and we shall have lots to tell you about when we 
 come back.' 
 
 ' I cannot trust to your remembering everything that happens,' 
 said mamma. ' When I gave my leave I intended to make it 
 provisional on your keeping a journal of all you see and do, and 
 everything interesting you hear about. I do not expect it to be 
 very long ; so you must make it terse and graphic. Oliver must keep 
 notes and help you, and one complete journal will be sufficient.' 
 
THE START. 11 
 
 'That's just the bargain I intended to make,' said papa. 'I'll look 
 out that Harry keeps to his intentions. It is the most difficult 
 matter to accomplish. Thousands of people intend to write journals, 
 and break down after the first five or six pages.' 
 
 On the morning appointed for the start a little longer time than 
 usual was spent in prayer together, a special petition being offered 
 that our Heavenly Father would keep us under His protection, and 
 bring us safely home again. Soon afterwards we were rattling away 
 to Waterloo Station, with our traps, including our still blank journals, 
 our sketch-books, fishing-rods, our guns, several works on natural 
 history, bottles and boxes for specimens, spy -glasses, and lots of other 
 things. 
 
 Papa laughed when he saw them. ' It would not do if we were 
 going to join a man-of-war ; but we have room to stow away a good 
 number of things on board the Lively, although she is little more than 
 thirty -five tons burden.' 
 
 In a quarter of an hour the train started for Southampton ; and 
 away we flew, the heat and the dust increasing our eagerness to feel 
 the fresh sea-breezes. 
 
 ' Although the Lively can show a fast pair of heels, we cannot go 
 quite so fast as this,' said papa, as he remarked the speed at which 
 we dashed by the telegraph posts. 
 
 On reaching the station at Southampton, we found Paul Truck, 
 the sailing-master of the cutter, or the captain, as he liked to be 
 called, waiting for us, with two of the crew, who had come up to 
 assist in carrying our traps down to the quay. There was the boat, 
 her crew in blue shirts, and hats on which was the name of the 
 yacht. The men, who had the oars upright in their hands while 
 waiting, when we embarked let the blades drop on the water in 
 smart man-of-war style ; and away we pulled for the yacht, which 
 lay some distance off the quay. 
 
 'I think I shall know her again,' cried Oliver; 'that's her, I'm 
 certain.' 
 
12 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND, 
 
 Paul, who was pulling the stroke oar, cast a glance over his 
 shoulder, and shaking his head with a knowing look, observed : 
 
 ' No, no. Master Oliver ; that's a good deal bigger craft than ours. 
 She's ninety ton at least. You must give another guess.' 
 
 ' That's the Lively, though,' I cried out ; ' I know her by her beauty 
 and the way she sits on the water.' 
 
 'You're right. Master Harry. Lively is her name, and lively is 
 her nature, and beautiful she is to look at. PJl be bound we shall 
 not fall in with a prettier craft — a finer boat for her size.' 
 
 Paul's encomiums were not undeserved by the yacht; she was 
 everything he said ; we thought so, at all events. It was with no 
 little pride that we stepped on deck. 
 
 Papa had the after-cabin fitted up for Oliver and me, and he 
 himself had a state cabin abaft the forecastle. There were besides 
 four open berths in which beds could be made up on both sides of 
 the main cabin. The forecastle was large and airy, with room for 
 the men to swing their hammocks, and it also held a brightly 
 polished copper kitchen range. 
 
 Everything looked as neat and clean 'as if the yacht had been 
 . kept in a glass case,' as Paul observed. 
 
 Papa, having looked over the stores, took us on shore to obtain a 
 number of things which he found we should require. We thus had 
 an opportunity of seeing something of the town. 
 
 The old walls of Southampton have been pulled down, or are 
 crumbling away, the most perfect portion being the gateway, or Bar 
 Gate, in the High Street. On either side of it stand two curious old 
 heraldic figures, and beside them are two blackened pictures — one 
 representing Sir Bevis of Hampton, and the other his companion, 
 Ascapart. Sir Bevis, who lived in the reign of Edgar, had a castle 
 in the neighbourhood. It is said he bestowed his love on a pagan 
 lady, Josian, who, having been converted to Christianity, gave him 
 a sword called Morglay, and a horse named Arundel. Thus equipped 
 he was wont to kill four or five men at one blow. Among his 
 
THE START. 
 
 13 
 
 renowned deeds were those he performed against the Saracens, and 
 also his slaughter of an enormous dragon. 
 
 The extensive docks at the mouth of the river Itchen, to the east 
 of the town, have, of course, greatly increased its wealth. We saw 
 
 BIRTH-PLACE OF ISAAC WATTS, SOUTHAMPTON. 
 
 a magnificent foreign-bound steamer coming out of the docks. The 
 West India ships start from here, as do other lines of steamers 
 running to the Cape, and to various parts of the world ; so that South- 
 ampton is a bustling seaport. There is another river to the west of 
 
14 
 
 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND, 
 
 the town, called the Test ; and that joining with the Itchen at the 
 point where the town is built, forms the beautiful Southampton 
 Water. 
 
 But perhaps the most interesting fact about Southampton is that 
 Isaac Watts, the Christian poet, was born here in 1671. The house 
 
 ST. MICHAELS GAOL, SOUTHAMPTON. 
 
 in French Street is still standing, and we went to look at it. There 
 he passed his play-days of childhood ; there the dreamy, studious boy 
 stored up his first spoils of knowledge ; there he wrote his first 
 hymns ; and thither he went to visit his parents, when he himself was 
 old and famous. We also went to see the remains of St. Michael's 
 Gaol, in which Watts* father had been confined for his nonconformity. 
 
From Phoio.] 
 
 IN THE NEW FOEEST. 
 
 [Bei'Un Photographic Co. 
 
THE START. \7 
 
 And as we looked on the old prison we thanked God that nowadays, 
 in England at least, religious persecution is unknown. 
 
 When we returned on board, we noticed with surprise on each side 
 of the river what had the appearance of green fields, over which the 
 water had just before flowed ; they were, however, in reality mud 
 flats covered by long sea-weed. 
 
 Soon after tea we turned into our berths, feeling very jolly and 
 quite at home, though Oliver did knock his head twice against the 
 deck above, forgetting the size of our bed-room. We lay awake lis- 
 tening to the water rippling by, and now and then hearing the step 
 of the man on watch overhead ; but generally there was perfect silence, 
 very different from the noise of London. 
 
 We were both dressed and on deck some time before papa next 
 morning, for as the tide was still flowing, and there was no wind, he 
 knew that we could not make way down the river. So we had time 
 for a dive and a swim round the vessel, climbing on board again by 
 means of a short ladder rigged over the side. 
 
 Soon after this we saw a few of the other vessels hoisting their 
 sails ; and then Captain Truck, Oliver, and I pulled and hauled until 
 we got our mainsail set. The men then washed down the decks, 
 though really there was no dirt to wash away, and we tried, as we 
 had promised, to make ourselves useful. 
 
 When papa appeared he looked pleased at our being so hard at 
 work. As there was just then a ripple on the water, he ordered the 
 anchor to be got up ; and it being now full tide, we began, almost im- 
 perceptibly, to glide away from among the other vessels. On the 
 right was the edge of the New Forest, in which William Rufus was 
 killed ; although I believe that took place a good way off", near Lynd- 
 hurst ; and very little of the eastern side of the forest now remains. 
 
 On the left we passed Netley Abbey, a very pretty, small ruin, and 
 near it a large military hospital and college, where medical officers 
 of the army study the complaints of the troops who have been in 
 tropical climates. On the opposite side, at the end of a point stretching 
 
 B 
 
18 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 partly across the mouth of the water, we saw the old grey, round 
 castle of Calshot, which was built to defend the entrance, but would 
 be of little use in stopping even an enemy's gun-boat at the present 
 day. However, papa said there are very strong fortifications at both 
 ends of the Solent, as the channel here is called. No enemy's gun- 
 boat could ever get through, much less an enemy's fleet ; at any rate, 
 if they did, he hoped they would never get out again. 
 
 Some way to the left of Calshot rose the tall tower of Eaglehurst 
 among the trees. The wind was from the west. We stood away 
 towards Portsmouth, as papa wished to visit an old friend there, and 
 to give us an opportunity of seeing that renowned seaport as well. 
 We caught a glimpse of Cowes, and Osborne to the east of it, where 
 the Queen frequently resides, and the town of Ryde, rising up 
 on a hill surrounded by woods, and then the shipping at Spithead, 
 with the curious cheese-shaped forts erected to guard the eastern 
 entrance to the Solent. 
 
 Papa told us that these curious round forts, rising out of the sea, 
 are built of granite ; that in time of war they are to be united by a 
 line of torpedoes and the wires of electric batteries. They are per- 
 fectly impregnable to shot, and they are armed with very heavy guns, 
 so that an enemy attempting to come in on that side would have a very 
 poor chance of success. 
 
 As we were anxious to see them, we had kept more in mid-channel 
 than we should otherwise have done. We now hauled up for Ports- 
 mouth Harbour. Far off, on the summit of the green heights of 
 Portsdown Hill, we could see the obelisk-shaped monument to Nelson, 
 an appropriate landmark in sight of the last spot of English ground 
 on which he stepped before sailing to fight the great battle of Tra- 
 falgar, where he fell. We could also trace the outline of a portion of 
 the cordon of forts — twenty miles in length — from Langston Harbour 
 on the east to Stokes' Bay on the west. Along the shores, on both 
 sides of the harbour, are two lines of fortifications ; so that even 
 should a hostile fleet manage to get by the cheese-like forts, they 
 
ii!!l!li!i!!!ll!!i;ii]!'lii!!l!iiO|i!|!ni 
 
 
 B 2 
 
THE START. 21 
 
 would still find it a hard matter to set fire to the dockyard or blow 
 up the Victory. That noble old ship met our sight as, passing be- 
 tween Point Battery and Block House Fort, we entered the harbour. 
 
 She did not look so big as I expected, for not far off was the Duke 
 of Wellington, which seemed almost large enough to hoist her on 
 board ; and nearer to us, at the entrance of Haslar Creek, was the 
 gallant old St. Vincent, on board which papa once served when he 
 was a midshipman. We looked at her with great respect, I can tell 
 you. Think how old she must be. She has done her duty well — 
 she has carried the flag of England many a year, and now still does 
 her duty by serving as a ship in which boys are trained for the 
 Koyal Navy. 
 
 Further up, in dim perspective, we saw ships with enormous 
 yellow-painted hulls; noble ships they were, with names allied to 
 England's naval glory. They were all, however, far younger than 
 the St. Vincent, as we discovered by seeing the apertures in their 
 stern-posts formed to admit screws. Some fought in the Black Sea, 
 others in the Baltic ; but papa said ' that their fighting days are now 
 done, though they are kept to be employed in a more peaceful manner, 
 either as hospital ships or training schools.' 
 
 Shortening sail, we came to an anchor not far from the St. Vincent, 
 among several other yachts. On the Gosport side we could see across 
 the harbour, away to the dockyard, off the quays of which were 
 clustered a number of black monsters of varied form and rig. Papa 
 said — though otherwise we could not have believed it — 'that there 
 were amongst them some of the finest ships of the present navy.' 
 I could hardly fancy that such ships could go to sea, for they are 
 more like gigantic coal barges with strong erections on their decks, 
 than anything else afloat. 
 
 Of course I cannot tell you all our adventures consecutively, so 
 shall describe only some of the most interesting. We first visited the 
 St. Vincent, which, as we had just left our little yacht, looked very 
 fine and grand. Papa was saying to one of the officers that he had 
 
22 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 served on board her, when a weather-beaten petty officer came up, 
 and with a smile on his countenance touched his hat, asking if papa 
 remembered Tom Trueman. Papa immediately exclaimed, ' Of course 
 I do,' and gave him such a hearty grip of the hand that it almost 
 made the tears come into the old man's eyes with pleasure, and they 
 had a long yarn about days of yore. After this papa met many old 
 shipmates. It was pleasant to see the way in which he greeted them 
 and they greeted him, showing how much he must have been beloved, 
 which, of course, he was ; and I '11 venture to say it will be a hard 
 matter to find a kinder or better man. I'm sure that he is a brave 
 sailor, from the things he has done, and the cool way in which he 
 manages the yacht, whatever is happening. 
 
 After we had finished with the St. Vincent we went on board the 
 Victory, which looks, outside, as sound as ever she did — a fine, bluff 
 old ship ; but when we stepped on her deck, even we were struck by 
 her ancient appearance, very unlike the St. Vincent, and still more 
 unlike the Duke of Wellington. There was wonderfully little orna- 
 mental or brass work of any sort ; and the stanchions, ladders, and 
 railings were all stout and heavy-looking. 
 
 Of course we looked with respect on the brass plate on her deck 
 which marks the spot where Nelson fell. We then went far down 
 into the midshipmen's berth, in the cockpit. How dark and gloomy 
 it seemed; and yet it was here Nelson, while the guns were thun- 
 dering overhead, lay dying. How very different from the mess-rooms 
 of young officers of the present day ! Here another inscription, fixed 
 on the ship's side, pointed out where the hero breathed his last. 
 Going into the cabin on the main deck, we saw one of the very 
 topsails — riddled with shot — which had been at Trafalgar. After 
 being shifted at Gibraltar, it had been for more than half a century 
 laid up in a store at Woolwich, no one guessing what a yarn that old 
 roll of canvas could tell. 
 
 We also saw an interesting picture of the ' Death of Nelson,' and 
 another of the battle itself. We felt almost awe-struck while seeing 
 
THE START. 25 
 
 these things, and thinking of the gallant men who once served on board 
 that noble ship. Papa said that he hoped, if the old ship is not 
 wanted for practical purposes, that she may be fitted up exactly as 
 she was at Trafalgar. 
 
 We afterwards called on an old lady — a friend of papa — who told 
 us that she clearly recollected going off from Ryde in a boat with her 
 father and mother, and pulling round the Victory when she arrived 
 from Gibraltar at Spithead, on the 4th of December, 1805, with the 
 body of Nelson on board. In many places the shot were still 
 sticking in her sides, her decks were scarcely freed from blood, and 
 other injuries showed the severity of the action. 
 
 After this, the Victory was constantly employed until the year 
 1 81 2, from which time she was never recommissioned for sea; 
 but from 1825 until within a few years ago, she bore the flags of 
 the port-admirals of Portsmouth. 
 
 Late in the evening we crossed the harbour to the dockyard, where 
 papa wanted to pay a visit. A curious steam ferry-boat runs back- 
 wards and forwards between Portsmouth and Gosport. We passed 
 a number of large ships coated with thick plates of iron ; but even 
 the thickest cannot withstand the shots sent from some of the guns 
 which have been! invented, and all might be destroyed by torpedoes. 
 We could hardly believe that some of the ships we saw were fit to go 
 to sea. The most remarkable was the Devastation. Her free-board — 
 that is, the upper part of her sides — is only a few feet above the 
 water. Amidships rises a round structure supporting what is called 
 ' a hurricane deck.' This is the only spot where the officers and men 
 can stand in a sea-way. At either end is a circular revolving turret 
 containing two thirty-five ton guns, constructed to throw shot of 
 seven hundred pounds. These guns are worked by means of 
 machinery. 
 
 Contrasting with the ironclads, we saw lying alongside the quays 
 several enormous, white-painted, richly-gilt troop-ships, also iron- 
 built, which run through the Suez Canal to India. The night was 
 
26 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 calm and still ; and as we pulled up the harbour a short distance 
 among the huge ships, I could not help fancying that I heard them 
 talking to each other, and telling of the deeds they had done. Papa 
 laughed at my poetical fancy, which was put to flight when he told 
 me that scarcely any of them, except those which were engaged in 
 the Baltic and Black Sea, had seen any service. 
 
 Pulling down the harbour on the Gosport side, to be out of the way 
 of passing vessels, we soon reached the yacht, feeling very tired, for 
 we had been wide awake for the last sixteen hours. As we sat in 
 our little cabin, it was difficult to realise that outside of us were so 
 many objects and scenes of interest connected with the naval history 
 of England. Papa told us a number of curious anecdotes. Not many 
 hundred yards from us, about a century ago, was to be seen a gibbet 
 on Block House Point, at the west entrance of the harbour, on which 
 hung the body of a man called Jack the Painter. Having taken it 
 into his very silly head that he should forward the cause of freedom 
 by burning the dockyard, he set fire to the rope-house, which was filled 
 with hemp, pitch, and tar. Jack, having performed this noble deed, 
 escaped from the yard, and was making his way along the Fareham 
 Road, when, having asked a carter to give him a lift, he pointed out 
 the cloud of smoke rising in the distance, observing that he ' guessed 
 where it came from.' The carter went his way; but shortly after- 
 wards, when a hue and cry was raised, he recollected his passenger, 
 who was traced, captured, tried, and executed. 
 
 Another story we heard was about the mad pranks played by naval 
 officers in days of yore. At that time, a sentry-box, having a seat 
 within, stood on the Hard, at Portsmouth, so that the sentry could 
 sit down and rest himself. It happened that a party of young 
 captains and commanders, coming down from dinner to embark, 
 found the sentry at his post, but drunk and sound asleep in his box ! 
 Punishment was his due. They bethought themselves of a mode of 
 astonishing him. Summoning their crews, box and sentry were 
 carried on board one of their boats and transported to Gosport, and 
 
THE START. 27 
 
 then placed in an upright position facing the water. When the relief 
 came to the spot where the sentry was originally stationed, what was 
 their astonishment and alarm to find neither sentry nor box! The 
 captain of the guard reported the circumstance to the fort-major. 
 * The enemy,' he averred, ' must be at hand.' 
 
 The garrison was aroused, the drawbridges were hauled up. 
 Daylight revealed the box and the position of the sentry, who 
 protested that, although as sober as a judge, he had no idea how he 
 had been conveyed across the harbour. 
 
 Numerous ' land-sharks ' used to be in waiting to tempt those who 
 were generally too ready to be tempted into scenes of debauchery and 
 vice. This state of things continued until a few years ago, when it 
 was put into the heart of a noble lady — Miss Robinson — to found an 
 institute for soldiers and sailors. There they may find a home when 
 coming on shore, and be warned of the dangers awaiting them. After 
 great exertion, and travelling about England to obtain funds, she 
 raised about thirteen thousand pounds, and succeeded in purchasing 
 the old Fountain Hotel, in the High Street, which, greatly enlarged, 
 was opened in 1874 as a Soldiers' and Sailors' Institute, by General 
 Sir James Hope Grant. 
 
 Dear me, I shall fill up my journal with the yarns we heard at 
 Portsmouth, and have no room for our adventures, if I write on at 
 this rate. After our devotions, we turned in, and were lulled to sleep, 
 as we were last night, by the ripple of the water against the sides of 
 the yacht. 
 
CHAPTER IL 
 
 IN THE SOLENT. 
 
 EXT moi'ning, soon after breakfast, we went on shore to pay 
 a visit to the dockyard. On entering, papa was desired to 
 put down his name ; and the man seeing that he was a 
 captain in the navy, we were allowed to go on without 
 a policeman in attendance, and nearly lost ourselves among 
 the storehouses and docks. As we walked past the lines 
 of lofty sheds, we heard from all directions the ringing dank of iron, 
 instead of, as in days of yore, the dull thud of the shipwright's mallet, 
 and saw the ground under each shed strewed with ribs and sheets of 
 iron ready to be fixed to the vast skeletons within. Papa could not 
 help sighing, and saying that he wished 'the days of honest sailing 
 ships could come back again.' However, he directly afterwards 
 observed, 'I should be sorry to get back, at the same time, the 
 abuses, the wild doings, and the profligacy which then prevailed. 
 Things have undoubtedly greatly improved, though they are bad 
 enough even now.' 
 
 Tramways and railways, with steam locomotives, run in all direc- 
 tions. Formerly, papa said, the work was done by yellow-coated 
 convicts with chains on their legs. They have happily been removed 
 from the dockyard itself, and free labourers only are employed. 
 
IN THE SOLENT. 29 
 
 Convicts, however, are still employed in various extensive public 
 works. 
 
 Of course we visited Brunei's block machinery, which shapes from 
 the rough mass of wood, with wonderful accuracy and speed, the 
 polished block fit for use. Huge lathes were at work, with circular 
 saws and drills, sending the chips of wood flying round them with 
 a whizzing and whirring sound. So perfect is the machinery that 
 skilled artisans are not required to use it. Four men only are 
 employed in making the shells, and these four can make with 
 machinery as many as fifty men could do by hand. On an average, 
 nineteen men make one hundred and fifty thousand blocks in the 
 course of the year. 
 
 Leaving the block- house, we went to the smithy, where w^e saw 
 Nasmyth's steam hammer, which does not strike like a hammer, 
 but comes down between two uprights. On one side is a huge 
 furnace for heating the material to be subjected to the hammer. 
 Papa asked the manager to place a nut under it, when down came 
 the hammer and just cracked the shell. He then asked for another 
 to be placed beneath the hammer, when it descended and made but a 
 slight dent in the nut. 
 
 Soon afterwards a huge mass of iron, to form an anchor, was 
 drawn out of the furnace ; then down came the hammer with 
 thundering strokes, beating and battering it until it was forced 
 into the required shape, while the sparks flying out on all sides 
 made us retreat to a safer distance. 
 
 One of the largest buildings in the dockyard is the foundry, which 
 is considered the most complete in the world. We looked into the 
 sheds, as they are called, where the boilers for the ships are con- 
 structed, and could scarcely hear ourselves speak, from the noise of 
 hammers driving in the rivets. Many of the boilers were large enough 
 to form good-sized rooms. We walked along the edge of the steam 
 basin. It is nine hundred feet long and four hundred broad. The 
 ships, I should have said^ are built on what are called the building 
 
30 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 slips, which are covered over with huge roofs of corrugated iron, so 
 that the ships and workmen are protected while the building is going 
 forward. 
 
 Before leaving we went into the mast-house, near the entrance to 
 the yard. Here we saw the enormous pieces of timber intended to 
 be built into masts — for masts of large ships are not single trees, but 
 composed of many pieces, which are bound together with stout iron 
 hoops. Here also were the masts of ships in ordinary. They would 
 be liable to decay if kept on board exposed to the weather. Each 
 mast and yard is marked with the name of the ship to which it 
 belongs. The masts of the old Victory are kept here, the same she 
 carried at Trafalgar. Not far off is the boat-house, where boats from 
 a large launch down to the smallest gig are kept ready for use. 
 
 We looked into the Naval College, where officers go to study a 
 variety of professional subjects. When papa was a boy the Naval 
 College was used as the Britannia now is— as a training-school for 
 naval cadets. Finding an officer going on board the Excellent — 
 gunnery ship — we accompanied him. We were amused to find that 
 the Excellent consists of three ships moored one astern of the other, 
 and that not one of them is the old Excellent, she having been 
 removed. Our friend invited us to accompany him on board an 
 old frigate moored a little way up the harbour, from which we could 
 see some interesting torpedo experiments. 
 
 As we pulled along he gave us an explanation of the fish torpedo — 
 a wonderful instrument of destruction which has been invented of 
 late years. It is a cylinder, which carries the explosive material at 
 one end and the machinery for working the screw which impels it at 
 the other. It can be discharged through a tube with such accuracy 
 that it can strike an object several hundred yards off. On getting on 
 board the old frigate, we found a large party of officers assembled. 
 We were to witness the explosion of two other sorts of torpedoes. 
 One was used by a steam launch, the fore part of which was entirely 
 covered over by an iron shield. The torpedo was fixed to the end of 
 
IN THE SOLENT. 31 
 
 a long pole, carried at the side of the launch. At some distance from 
 the ship a huge cask was moored, towards which the launch rapidly- 
 made her way. The pole, with the torpedo at the end, was then 
 thrust forward ; the concussion ignited it the instant it struck the 
 cask and blew it to fragments. 
 
 Another launch then approached a large cask floating with one end 
 out of the water, to represent a boat. An officer stood up with a little 
 ball of gun-cotton in his hand, smaller than an orange, to which was 
 attached a thin line of what is called lightning cotton, the other end 
 being fastened to a pistol. As the launch glided on he threw the ball 
 into the cask. The boat moved away as rapidly as possible, when 
 the pistol being fired, in an instant the cask was blown to atoms. 
 What a fearful effect would have been produced had the innocent- 
 looking little ball been thrown into a boat full of men instead of into 
 a cask ! 
 
 Another experiment with gun-cotton was then tried. A piece not 
 larger than a man's hand was fastened to an enormous iron chain 
 fixed on the deck of the ship. We were all ordered to go below, out 
 of harm's way. Soon afterwards, the gun-cotton having been ignited 
 by a train, we heard a loud report; and on returning on deck we 
 found that the chain had been cut completely in two, the fragments 
 having flown about in all directions. 
 
 The chain of a boat at anchor was cut by means of a piece of 
 gun-cotton fixed to it, and ignited by a line of lightning cotton fired 
 from one of the launches. This showed us how the chain-cable of a 
 ship at anchor might be cut ; while a torpedo boat might dash in, as 
 she was drifting away with the tide and the attention of her officers 
 was engaged, to blow her up. 
 
 The chief experiments of the day were still to come ofi*. We saw 
 a number of buoys floating in various directions some way up the 
 harbour. A launch advanced towards one, when the buoy being 
 struck by the pole, the charge of a torpedo some twenty yards away 
 was ignited, and the fearful engine exploding, lifted a huge mass of 
 
32 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 water some thirty or forty yards into the air. How terrible must be 
 the effects when such a machine explodes under a ship ! As soon as 
 the torpedoes had exploded^ the boats pulled up to the spot, and picked 
 up a large number of fish which had been killed or stunned by the 
 concussion — for many did not appear to be injured, and some even 
 recovered when in the boats. 
 
 Papa, though very much interested, could not help saying that he 
 was thankful these murderous engines of war had not been discovered 
 in his time. It is indeed sad to think that the ingenuity oi 
 people should be required to invent such dreadful engines for the 
 destruction of their fellow-creatures. When will the blessings of the 
 gospel of peace be universally spread abroad, and nations learn war 
 no more? 
 
 We next pulled over to the Gosport side, to visit the Eoyal 
 Clarence Victualling Establishment, which papa said was once called 
 Weovil. Here are stored beef and other salted meats, as well as 
 supplies and clothing; but what interested us most was the biscuit 
 manufactory. It seemed to us as if the corn entered at one end and 
 the biscuits came out at the other, baked, and all ready to eat. The 
 corn having been ground, the meal descends into a hollow cylinder, 
 where it is mixed with water. As the cylinder revolves a row of 
 knives within cut the paste into innumerable small pieces, kneading 
 them into dough. This dough is taken out of the cylinder and spread 
 on an iron table, over which enormous rollers pass until they have 
 pressed the mass into a sheet two inches thick. These are further 
 divided and passed under a second pair of rollers, when another 
 instrument cuts the sheets into hexagonal biscuits, not quite dividing 
 them, however, and at the same time stamping them with the Queen's 
 mark and the number of the oven in which they are baked. Still 
 joined together, they are passed into the ovens. One hundred- weight 
 of biscuits can be put into one oven. 
 
 On the Gosport side we went over some of the forts, which are 
 of great extent. The longest walk we took was to Portsdown 
 
IN THE SOLENT. 33 
 
 Hill, for the sake of visiting the Nelson Monument. On it is an 
 inscription : — 
 
 Co tf)c fHemorg of 
 
 LORD VISCOUNT NELSON. 
 
 BY THE ZEALOUS ATTACHMENT OP ALL THOSE WHO 
 
 FOUGHT AT TRAFALGAR — TO PERPETUATE 
 
 HIS TRIUMPH AiTD THEIR REGRET. 
 
 MDCCCV. 
 
 We had a magnificent view from the top of the monument, looking 
 completely over Gosport, Portsmouth, and Southsea, with the harbour 
 at our feet, and taking in nearly the whole line of the Isle of Wight, 
 with the Solent, and away to the south-east, St. Helen's and the 
 English Channel. Later on we pulled five miles up the harbour, 
 to Porchester Castle, built by William the Conqueror. For many 
 centuries it was the chief naval station of the kingdom, modern 
 Portsmouth having sprung up in the reign of Henry the First, in 
 consequence of Porchester Harbour filling with mud. 
 
 It was here, during the war with Napoleon, that several thousands 
 of French prisoners were confined, some in the castle, and others on 
 board the hulks. They, of course, did not like to be shut up, and 
 many attempting to escape were suffocated in the mud. They were 
 but scantily supplied with provisions, though they were not actually 
 starved; but a French colonel who broke his parole wrote a book, 
 affirming that on one occasion an officer who came to inspect the 
 castle, having left his horse in the court-yard, the famished prisoners 
 despatched the animal, devouring it on the spot ; and, by the time 
 the owner returned, the stirrup-irons and bit alone remained ! 
 
 Portsmouth is a very healthy place, although from its level position 
 it might be supposed to be otherwise. It has a wide and handsome 
 High Street, leading down to the harbour. 
 
 The Fountain, at the end of the High Street, no longer exists as 
 an inn, but has been converted by Miss Robinson into a Soldiers' and 
 
 ° 
 
34 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 Sailors' Institute. We went over the whole establishment. At the 
 entrance are rooms where soldiers and sailors can see their friends; 
 and then there is a large bar, where, although no intoxicating drinks 
 can be obtained, tea, coffee, and beverages of all sorts are served. 
 Near it is a large coffee-room. Passing through the house, we entered 
 a very nice garden, on the right of which there is a bowling-green and 
 a skittle-alley; and we then came to a very handsome hall which 
 serves for religious meetings, lectures, concerts, teas, and other social 
 gatherings. There were also rooms in which the men can fence or 
 box. A large reading-room (with a good library) and Bible- class- 
 room are on the second floor; and at the top of the house are 
 dormitories, making up a considerable number of beds for soldiers, as 
 also for their wives and families, who may be passing through 
 Portsmouth either to embark or have come from abroad. There is a 
 sewing-room for the employment of the soldiers' wives. A Children's 
 Band of Hope meets every week. There is even a smoking-room for 
 the men, and hot or cold baths. Indeed, a more perfect place for 
 the soldier can nowhere be found. Miss Robinson herself resides in 
 the house, and superintends the whole work, of which I have given but 
 a very slight description. I should say that this most energetic lady 
 has also secured several houses for the accommodation of soldiers' 
 families, who would otherwise be driven into dirty or disreputable 
 lodgings. 
 
 Another philanthropist of whom Portsmouth is justly proud is John 
 Pounds, who though only a poor shoemaker, originated and super- 
 intended the first ragged school in the kingdom. Near the Soldiers' 
 Institute is the John Pounds' Memorial Ragged School, where a large 
 number of poor children are cared for. It is very gratifying to know 
 that many of our brave soldiers and sailors are also serving under the 
 great Captain of our salvation, and fighting the good fight of faith, 
 helped in so doing by good servants of God. 
 
 The town of Portsmouth was until lately surrounded by what 
 were called very strong fortifications ; but the new works have 
 
IN THE SOLENT. 35 
 
 rendered them perfectly useless, and they are therefore being dis- 
 mantled — a great advantage to the town, as it will be thrown open to 
 the sea breezes. 
 
 A light breeze from the eastward enabled us to get under weigh just 
 at sunrise, and to stem the tide still making into the harbour. Some- 
 times, however, we scarcely seemed to go ahead, as we crept by Block 
 House Fort and Point Battery on the Portsmouth side. 
 
 Once upon a time, to prevent the ingress of an enemy's fleet, a chain 
 was stretched across the harbour's mouth. We had got just outside 
 the harbour when we saw a man-of-war brig under all sail standing 
 in. A beautiful sight she was, her canvas so white, her sides so 
 polished ! — on she stood, not a brace nor tack slackened. Papa looked 
 at her with the affection of an old sailor. It was an object which 
 reminded him of his younger days. 'You don't see many like her 
 now,' he observed. Presently, as she was starting by us, a shrill 
 whistle was heard. Like magic the sails were clewed up, the hands, 
 tine active lads — for she was a training vessel — flew aloft, and lay out 
 on the yards. While we were looking, the sails were furled ; and it 
 seemed scarcely a moment afterwards when we saw her round to and 
 come to an anchor not far from the St. Vincent. ' That's how I like to 
 see things done,' said papa. 'I wish we had a hundred such craft 
 afloat ; our lads would learn to be real seamen 1' 
 
 He and Paul were so interested in watching the brig, that for the 
 moment their attention was wholly absorbed. As we got off the 
 Southsea pier we began to feel the wind coming over the common ; 
 and being able to make better way, quickly glided by the yachts and 
 small vessels anchored off it, when we stood close to one of those round 
 towers I have described, and then on towards Spithead. 
 
 Spithead is so called because it is at the end of a spit or point of 
 sand which runs off from the mainland. We passed close over the 
 spot where the Royal George, with nine hundred gallant men on 
 board, foundered in August, 1782. She was the flag-ship of Admiral 
 Kempenfeldt. He was at the time writing in his cabin, where he was 
 
 c 1 
 
36 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 last seen by the captain of the ship, who managed to leap out of a 
 stern port and was saved, as was the late Sir Philip Durham, port- 
 admiral of Portsmouth, then one of the junior lieutenants. The 
 accident happened from the gross negligence and obstinacy of one of 
 the lieutenants. In order to get at a wa,ter-cock on the starboard side, 
 the ship had been heeled down on her larboard side, by running her 
 guns over until the lower deck port- sills were just level with the water. 
 Some casks of rum were being hoisted on board from a lighter, bring- 
 ing the ship still more over. The carpenter, seeing the danger, 
 reported it to the lieutenant of the watch, who at first obstinately 
 refused to listen to him, A second time he went to the officer, who, 
 when too late, turned the hands up to right ship, intending to run the 
 guns back into their former places. The weight of five or six hundred 
 men, however, going over to the larboard side completely turned the 
 hitherto critically balanced scale ; and the ship went right over, with 
 her masts in the water. The sea rushing through her ports quickly 
 filled her, when she righted and went down, those who had clambered 
 through the ports on her starboard side being swept off. Two 
 hundred out of nine hundred alone were saved. Among these was a 
 midshipman only nine years old, and a little child found fastened on 
 to the back of a sheep swimming from the wreck. He could not tell 
 the names of his parents, who must have perished, and only knew 
 that his name was Jack, so he was called John Lamb. None of 
 his relatives could be found, and a subscription was raised and people 
 took care of him, and having received a liberal education, he entered 
 an honourable profession. 
 
 Some years ago the remains of the ship were blown up by Sir C. 
 Pasley, and many of the guns recovered. Close to the spot, in the days 
 of bluflf King Harry, the Mary Rose, after an action with a French ship, 
 went down with her gallant captain. Sir George Carew, and all his 
 men, while his crew were attempting to get at the shot-holes she had 
 received. 
 
 In 1 70 1, the Edgar, 74 guns, which had just arrived from Canada, 
 
IN THE SOLENT. 
 
 37 
 
 blew up ; her crew and their friends were making merry when 
 they, to the number of eight hundred, miserably perished. 
 
 While at anchor here also, the Boyne, of 91 guns, caught fire. All 
 efforts to put out the flames were unavailing ; but the greater number 
 of her crew escaped in boats. As she drifted from Spithead towards 
 Southsea, her guns continued to go off*, until touching the shore, she 
 blew up with a tremendous explosion. 
 
 THE MINOTAUR. 
 
 The ships at Spithead now are of a very different appearance from 
 those formerly seen there. Among them was the Minotaur, which, in 
 consequence of her great length, is fitted with five masts. Just as we 
 were passing her she got under weigh, papa said, in very good style ; 
 and certainly, when all her canvas was set, she looked a fine powerful 
 sea-going craft. 
 
 The Devastation came out of the harbour, and stood on towards 
 St. Helen's. She certainly looked as unlike our notions of a man-of-war 
 
38 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 as anything could be, though, as Paul Truck observed, 'she would 
 crumple up the Minotaur in a few minutes with her four thirty-five 
 ton guns, powerful as the five-masted ship appears.' 
 
 Though she looked only fit for harbour work, Paul said that she 
 had been out in heavy weather, and proved a fair sea-boat. The only 
 place that people live on, when not below, is the hurricane- deck. In 
 this centre structure are doorways which can be closed at sea. 
 They lead down into the cabins below, as well as to the hurricane- 
 deck, out of which rise the two funnels and an iron signal-mast. This 
 is thick enough to enable a person to ascend through its inside to a 
 crow's-nest on the top, which serves as a look-out place. From it 
 also projects the davits for hoisting up the boats. On the hurricane- 
 deck stands the captain's fighting-box, cased with iron. Here also is 
 the steering apparatus and wheel. When in action, all the officers 
 and men would be sent below except the helmsmen, who are also 
 protected, with the captain and a lieutenant,, and the men inside the 
 turrets working the guns. These are so powerful that they can pene- 
 trate armour six inches thick at the distance of nearly three miles. 
 
 We brought-up for a short time at the end of Ryde Pier, as papa 
 wished to go on shore to the club. The pier-head was crowded with 
 people who had come there to enjoy the sea-breeze without the incon- 
 venience of being tossed about in a vessel. The tow^n rises on a 
 steep hill from the shore, with woods on both sides, and looks very 
 picturesque. To the west is the pretty village of Binstead, with its 
 church peeping out among the trees. 
 
 We were very glad, however, when papa came on board, and we 
 got under weigh to take a trip along the south coast of the island. 
 The wind and tide suiting, we ran along the edge of the sand-flats, 
 which extend off from the north shore, passing a buoy which Paul 
 Truck said was called ' No Man's Land. ' Thence onwards, close by 
 the Warner light-ship. 
 
 As we wanted to see a light-ship, the yacht was hove-to, and we 
 went alongside in the boat. She was a stout, tub-like, Dutch-built- 
 
IN THE SOLENT. 39 
 
 looking vessel, with bow and stern much alike, and rising high out 
 of the water, which is very necessary, considering the heavy seas to 
 which she is at times exposed. The master, who knew Paul Truck, was 
 very'glad to see us, and at once offered to show us all over the vessel. 
 
 The light was in a sort of huge lantern, now lowered on deck ; but 
 at night it is hoisted to the top of the mast, thirty-eight feet above 
 the water, so that it can be seen at a distance of eight miles. It is 
 what is called a reflecting light. I will try and describe it.. 
 
 Within the lantern are a certain number of lights and reflectors, 
 each suspended on gimbals, so that they always maintain their per- 
 pendicular position, notwithstanding the rolling of the vessel. Each 
 of these lights consists of a copper lamp, placed in front of a saucer- 
 shaped reflector. The lamp is fed by a cistern of oil at the back of 
 the reflector. This being a revolving light, a number of reflectors were 
 fixed to the iron sides of a quadrangular frame, and the whole caused 
 to revolve once every minute by means of clockwork. The reflectors 
 on each side of the revolving frame — eight in number — are thus suc- 
 cessively directed to every point in the horizon ; and the combined 
 result of their rays form a flash of greater or less duration, according 
 to the rapidity of their revolution. In the fixed lights eight lamps 
 and reflectors are used, and are arranged in an octagonal lantern ; 
 they do not difier much in appearance from the others. 
 
 The master told us that the invention was discovered very curiously. 
 A number of scientific gentlemen were dining together at Liverpool — 
 a hundred years ago — when one of the company wagered that 
 he would read a newspaper at the distance of two hundred feet by 
 the light of a farthing candle. The rest of the party said that he 
 would not. He perhaps had conceived the plan before. Taking a 
 wooden bowl, he lined it with putty, and into it embedded small 
 pieces of looking-glass, by which means a perfect reflector was 
 formed; he then placed his rushlight in front of it, and won his 
 wager. Among the company was Mr. William Hutchinson, dock- 
 master of Liverpool, who seizing the idea, made use of copper lamps, 
 
40 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 and formed reflectors much in the same way as the gentleman before 
 mentioned. 
 
 Everything about the ship was strong, kept beautifully clean, and 
 in the most admirable order. The crew consists of the captain and 
 mate, with twelve or fourteen men, a portion , of whom are on shore 
 off duty. The life is very monotonous ; and the only amusement 
 they have is fishing, with reading and a few games, such as draughts 
 and chess. They had only a small library of books, which did not 
 appear very interesting. Papa left them a few interesting tracts and 
 other small books, and gave them a short address, urging them to 
 trust to Christ, and follow His example in their lives. They listened 
 attentively, and seemed very grateful. They have a large roomy 
 cabin, and an airy place to sleep in. The captain has his cabin aft, 
 besides which there is a large space used as a lamp-room, where all 
 the extra lamps and oil and other things pertaining to them are kept. 
 They seemed happy and contented ; but when a heavy gale is blowing 
 they must be terribly tossed about. Of course there is a risk — al- 
 though such is not likely to occur — of the vessel being driven from 
 her moorings. In case this should happen, they have small storm 
 sails, and a rudder to steer the vessel. When this does happen it is 
 a serious matter, not only to those on board, but still more so to any 
 ships approaching the spot, and expecting to find guidance from the 
 light. 
 
 Standing on, we passed close to the Bembridge or Nab light- vessel. 
 This vessel carries two bright fixed lights, one hoisted on each of her 
 masts, which can be seen at night ten miles off", and of course it can 
 be distinguished from the revolving Warner light. Farther off* to the 
 west, at the end of a shoal extending off" Selsea Bill, is another light- 
 ship, called the Owers. 
 
 Having rounded Bembridge Ledge, we stood towards the white 
 Culver cliffs, forming the north side of Sandown Bay, with lofty 
 downs rising above Bembridge. Near their summits are lines of for- 
 tifications, extending westward to where once stood Sandown Castle, 
 
m 
 
 THE UNDERCLIFF. 
 
IN THE SOLENT, 43 
 
 near which there is now a large town, although papa said he remem- 
 bered when there was only a small inn there, with a few cottages. 
 On the very top of the downs is a monument erected to Lord Yar- 
 borough, the king of yachtsmen, who died some years ago on board 
 his yacht, the Kestrel, in the Mediterranean. He at one time had a 
 large ship as his yacht, on board which he maintained regular naval 
 discipline, with a commander, and officers who did duty as lieutenants. 
 It was said that he offered to build and fit out a frigate, and maintain 
 her at his own expense, if the government would make him a post- 
 captain off-hand, but this they declined to do. 
 
 Standing across the bay, we came off a very picturesque spot, 
 called Shanklin Chine, a deep cut or opening in the clifts with trees 
 on both sides. Dunnose was passed, and the village of Bonchurch 
 and Ventnor, climbing up the cliffs from its sandy beach. We now 
 sailed along what is considered the most beautiful part of the Isle of 
 Wight, — the Undercliff. This is a belt of broken, nearly level ground, 
 more or less narrow, beyond which the cliffs rise to a considerable 
 height, with valleys intervening ; the downs in some places appearing 
 above them. This belt, called the Undercliff, is covered with trees 
 and numerous villas. 
 
 At last we came off Rocken End Point, below St. Catherine's 
 Head. This is the most southern point of the island. On it stands 
 a handsome stone tower, 105 feet high, with a brilliant fixed light 
 upon it. The village of Niton stands high up away from the shore. 
 
 It now came on to blow very fresh. There was not much sea in 
 the offing ; but, owing to the way the tide ran and met the wind, the 
 bottom being rocky, the water nearer the shore was tossed about in 
 a most curious and somewhat dangerous fashion, for several 'lumps 
 of sea,' as Truck called them, came flop down on our deck; and it 
 was easy to see what might be the consequences if an open boat had 
 attempted to pass through the Race. Paul told us that good-sized 
 vessels had been seen to go down in similar places. One off Portland 
 is far worse than this in heavy weather. 
 
44 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 Farther on is a curious landslip, where a large portion of the cliiF 
 once came down, and beyond it is Blackgang Chine, a wild, savage - 
 looking break in the cliffs, formed by the giving way of the lower 
 strata. Farther to the w^est, towards Freshwater Gate, the cliffs are 
 perpendicular, and of a great height, the smooth downs coming to 
 .their very edge. 
 
 Some years ago a picnic party, who had come over from Lymington, 
 had assembled on that part of the downs, having come by different 
 conveyances. Among them was a boy, like one of us — a merry 
 fellow, I dare say. After the picnic the party separated in various 
 directions. When the time to return had arrived, so many went off 
 in one carriage, and so many in another. In the same way they 
 crossed to Lymington in different boats. Not until their arrival at 
 that place was their young companion missed, each party having 
 supposed that he was with the other. What could have become of 
 him % They hoped against hope that he had wandered far off to the 
 east, and had lost his way. Then some of the party recollected 
 having seen him going towards the edge of the cliff. He was a 
 stranger, and was not aware how abruptly the downs terminated in 
 a fearful precipice. It was too late to send back that night. They 
 still hoped that he might have slipped down, and have lodged on 
 some ledge. At daybreak boats were despatched to the island. At 
 length his mangled remains were found at the foot of the highest 
 part of the cliff, over which he must have fallen and been dashed to 
 pieces. Papa said he recollected seeing the party land, and all the 
 circumstances of the case. 
 
 Here, too, several sad shipwrecks have occurred, when many lives 
 have been lost. A few years ago, two ladies were walking together 
 during a heavy gale of wind, which sent huge foaming billows 
 rolling on towards the shore. One, the youngest, was nearer the 
 water than the other, when an immense wave suddenly broke on the 
 beach, and surrounding her, carried her ofi' in its deadly embrace. 
 Her companion, with a courage and nerve few ladies possess, rushed 
 
IN THE SOLENT. 45 
 
 into the seething water, and seizing her friend, dragged her back just 
 before the hungry surge bore her beyond her depth. 
 
 Papa gave us these anecdotes as we gazed on the shore. We had 
 intended going completely round the island ; but the wind changing, 
 we ran back the way we had come, thus getting a second sight of 
 many places of interest. 
 
 It was dark before we reached the Nab ; but steering by the 
 lights I have described, we easily found our way towards the 
 anchorage off Ryde. At length we sighted the bright light at the 
 end of the pier, and we kept it on our port bow until we saw 
 before us a number of twinkling lights hoisted on board the yachts 
 at anchor. It was necessary to keep a very sharp look-out, as we 
 steered our way between them, until we came to an anchorage off 
 the western end of the pier. 
 
 The next morning, soon after daybreak, when we turned out to 
 enjoy a swim overboard, we saw, lying close to us, a fine sea-going 
 little schooner, but with no one, excepting the man on watch, on 
 deck. We had had our dip, and were dressing, when we saw a boy 
 spring up through the companion hatch, and do just what we had 
 done — jump overboard. 
 
 ' I do declare that must be Cousin Jack ! ' cried Oliver. ' We will 
 surprise him.' 
 
 In half a minute we had again slipped out of our clothes, and were 
 in the water on the opposite side to that on which the schooner lay. 
 We then swam round together ; and there, sure enough, we saw 
 Jack's ruddy countenance as he puffed and blew and spluttered as he 
 came towards us. 
 
 ' How do you do, Brother Grampus 1 ' cried Oliver. 
 
 In another moment we were all treading water and shaking hands, 
 and laughing heartily at having thus met, like some strange fish out 
 in the ocean. Greatly to our delight, we learned that the schooner 
 we had admired was Uncle Tom Westerton's new yacht, the Dolphin ; 
 and Jack said he thought it was very likely that his father would 
 
46 
 
 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 accompany us, and he hoped that he would when he knew where we 
 were going. 
 
 This, of course, was jolly news. We could not talk much just 
 then, as we found it required some exertion to prevent ourselves 
 being drifted away with the tide. We therefore, having asked Jack 
 
 THE DOLPHIN. 
 
 to come and breakfast with us, climbed on board again. He said 
 that he would gladly do so, but did not wish to tell his father, as he 
 wanted to surprise him. 
 
 A short time afterwards^ Uncle Tom Westerton poked his head 
 (with a nightcap on the top of it) up the companion hatchway, 
 rubbing his eyes, yawning and stretching out his arms, while he 
 
IN THE SOLENT. 47 
 
 looked about him as if he had just awakened out of sleep. He was 
 dressed in a loose pair of trousers and a dressing-gown, with slippers 
 on his feet. 
 
 ' Good morning to you, Uncle Tom ! ' shouted Oliver and I. 
 
 ' Hullo ! where did you come from ? ' he exclaimed. 
 
 ' From Portsmouth last. This is papa's new yacht ; and we are 
 going to sail round England,' I answered. 
 
 Just then papa, who had no idea that the Dolphin was close to us, 
 came on deck. The surprise was mutual. 
 
 Uncle Tom and Jack were soon on board ; and during breakfast 
 it was settled that we should sail together round England, provided 
 papa would wait a day until uncle could get the necessary provisions 
 and stores on board ; and in the mean time we settled to visit 
 Beaulieu river and Cowes, and at the latter place the Dolphin was 
 to rejoin us next day. 
 
 We, as may be supposed, looked forward to having great fun. 
 We had little doubt, although the Lively was smaller than the 
 Dolphin, that we could sail as fast as she could, while we should 
 be able to get into places where she could not venture. 
 
 As soon as breakfast was over, while the Dolphin stood for 
 Portsmouth to obtain what she wanted, we got under weigh, and 
 steered for the mouth of Beaulieu river. On our way we passed 
 over the Mother Bank, a shoal off which vessels in quarantine 
 have to bring up ; and here are anchored two large mastless ships, — 
 one for the officers and men of the quarantine guard, the other 
 serving as a hospital ship. We next came off Osborne, where the 
 Queen lives during the spring, — a magnificent-looking place, with 
 trees round three sides, and a park-like lawn descending to the 
 water's edge. Before the Queen bought it, a good-sized private house 
 stood here, belonging to a Mr. Blackford^, whose widow. Lady Isabella, 
 sold it to Her Majesty. A small steam yacht lay off the land, ready 
 to carry despatches or guests. 
 
 Rounding Old Castle Point, we opened up the harbour, and 
 
48 
 
 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 came in sight of the West Cowes Castle, and the handsome club- 
 house, and a line of private residences, with a broad esplanade 
 facing the sea, and wooded heights rising above it; and beyond, 
 looking northward, a number of villas, with trees round them and a 
 
 OSBOKNE HOUSE. 
 
 green lawn extending to the water. The 
 harbour was full of vessels of all descrip- 
 tions, and a number of fine craft were also 
 anchored in the Roads. 
 We thought Cowes a very pleasant-looking place. It was here 
 that the first yacht club was established. The vessels composing 
 it are known par excellence as the ' Royal Yacht Squadron ; ' and 
 a regatta has taken place here annually for more than half a century. 
 
IN THE SOLENT. 49 
 
 Ryde, Southampton, and Portsmouth^ indeed nearly every seaport, 
 has now its club-house and regatta. The chief are Cowes, Ryde, 
 Torquay, Plymouth, Cork, Kingston, and the Thames. Each has 
 its respective signal flag or burgee. That of Cowes is white, of Ryde 
 red, and most of the others are blue, with various devices upon them. 
 At Cowes, some way up the harbour, on the west side, are some large 
 ship-building yards. Here a number of fine yachts and other vessels 
 are built. Mr. White, one of the chief shipbuilders, has constructed 
 some fine life-boats, which are capable of going through any amount 
 of sea without turning over ; and even if they do so, they have 
 the power of righting themselves. He has built a number also to 
 carry on board ships, and very useful they have proved on many 
 occasions. Ships from distant parts often bring up in the Roads 
 to wait for orders ; others, outward bound, come here to receive 
 some of their passengers. Very frequently, when intending to run 
 through the Needle passage, they wait here for a fair wind, so 
 that the Roads are seldom without a number of ships, besides the 
 yachts, whose owners have their head-quarters here, many of their 
 families living on shore. 
 
 We agreed, however, that we were better off* on board our tight 
 little yacht, able to get under weigh and to go anywhere without 
 having to wait for our friends on shore. 
 
 Leaving Cowes harbour on our port quarter, we stood for Leep 
 Euoy, off" the mouth of the Beaulieu River. Hence we steered for 
 the village of Leep, on the mainland. Truck knowing the river 
 well, we ran on until we came to an anchor off" the village of Exbury. 
 Here it was thought safer to bring up, and proceed the rest, of the 
 distance in the boat. The river above Exbury becomes very narrow, 
 and we might have got becalmed, or, what would have been worse, 
 we might have stuck on the mud. 
 
 We pulled up for some miles between thickly-wooded banks, — 
 indeed, we were now passing through a part of the New Forest. 
 Suddenly the river took a bend, and we found ourselves off a 
 
 D 
 
50 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 village called Buckler's Hard. The river here expands considerably, 
 and we saw two or three vessels at anchor. In the last great war 
 there was a dockyard here, where a number of frigates and other 
 small men-of-war were built from the wood which the neighbouring 
 forest produced. Now, the dockyard turns out only a few coasting 
 craft. How different must have been the place when the sound of 
 the shipwright's hammer was incessantly heard, to what it now is, 
 resting in the most perfect tranquillity, as if everybody in the 
 neighbourhood had gone to sleep ! No one was to be seen moving 
 on shore, no one even on board the little coasters. Not a bird 
 disturbed the calm surface of the river. 
 
 As it was important that we should be away again before the 
 tide fell we pulled on, that we might land close to Beaulieu itself. 
 The scenery was picturesque in the extreme, the trees in many 
 places coming down to the water's edge, into which they dipped their 
 long hanging boughs. About six miles off, the artist Gilpin had 
 the living of Boldre, and here he often came to sketch views of wood- 
 land and river scenery. We landed near the bridge j and walked 
 on to see Beaulieu Abbey. Passing through a gateway we observed 
 the massive walls, which exist here and there almost entire, in some 
 places mantled with ivy, and at one time enclosing an area of sixteen 
 acres or more. 
 
 A short way off was a venerable stone building, now called 
 the Palace House, once the residence of the abbot, who being 
 too great a man to live with the monks, had a house to himself. 
 When convents were abolished, this was turned into a residence 
 by the Duke of Montague, to whose family it had been granted. 
 He enlarged and beautified it, enclosing it in a quadrangle with 
 walls, having a low circular tower at each angle, encompassed by 
 a dry moat crossed by a bridge. The whole building is now fitted 
 up as a modern residence. 
 
 A short distance to the east stands a long edifice, with lofty 
 roomr which was undoubtedly the dormitory, with large cellars 
 
IN THE SOLENT. 51 
 
 beneath it. At the south end the ancient kitchen remains entire, 
 with its vaulted stone roof and capacious chimney, proving that 
 the monks were addicted to good cheer ; indeed, the remains of the 
 fish-ponds, or stews, not far off, show that this was the case. 
 
 They also took care to supply themselves with fresh water, from a 
 fine spring issuing from a cave in the forest about half a mile away, 
 which was conveyed to the abbey in earthen pipes. That they were 
 not total abstainers, however, is proved by the remains of a building 
 evidently once containing the means of manufacturing wines ; and 
 close to it, in some fields having a warm southern aspect, still called 
 the Vineyards, grew their grapes. 
 
 This abbey, indeed, stands on just such a spot as sagacious men, 
 considering how best they might enjoy this world's comforts, would 
 select ; — a gentle stream, an ample supply of water, a warm situation, 
 extensive meadow and pasture land, sheltered from keen blasts 
 by woods and rising hills. The monastery was built, we are told, 
 in the time of King John, by a number of Cistercian monks. A 
 monkish legend, which, like most other monkish legends, is probably 
 false, asserts that the abbots of that order being summoned by the 
 king to Lincoln, expected to receive some benefit, instead of which the 
 savage monarch ordered them to be trodden to death by horses. 
 None of his attendants were willing, however, to execute his cruel 
 command. That night the king dreamed that he was standing before 
 a judge, accompanied by these abbots, who were commanded to 
 scourge him with rods. On awakening he still felt the pain of his 
 flagellation ; and being advised by his father-confessor to make 
 amends for his intended cruelty, he immediately granted the abbots 
 a charter for the foundation of the abbey. 
 
 The monks, as usual, practising on the credulity of the people, 
 grew rich, and obtained privileges and further wealth from various 
 sovereigns ; while the Pope conferred on their monastery the rights 
 of a sanctuary, exemption from tithes, and the election of its abbot 
 without the interference of king or bishop. In 1539 there were 
 
52 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 within their walls thirty-two sanctuary men for debt, felony, and 
 mul-dcr. Unpleasant guests the monks must have found them, unless 
 a thorough reformation had taken place in their characters. 
 
 Here Margaret of Anjou took shelter after the fatal battle of 
 Barnet ; and Perkin Warbeck fled hither, but being lured away, 
 perished at Tyburn. On the abolition of monasteries, Beaulieu 
 Abbey was granted to the Earl of Southampton, whose heiress married 
 the Duke of Montague, from whom it descended to his sole heiress, who 
 married the Duke of Buccleuch. The family have carefully preserved 
 the ruins, and prevented their further destruction. 
 
 'The abbeys have had their day; but, after all, we cannot help 
 holding them in affectionate remembrance for the service they ren- 
 dered in their generation,' observed Oliver, in a somewhat sentimental 
 tone, which made me laugh. 
 
 ' They may have done some good ; but that good could have been 
 obtained in a far better way,' said papa ; ' they were abominations from 
 the first ; and the life led by the monks was utterly at variance with 
 that which Scripture teaches us is the right life to lead. We might 
 as well regret that Kobin Hood and Dick Turpin do not now exist, 
 because they occasionally behaved with generosity to the poor, and 
 showed courtesy to the ladies they robbed. The monasteries were 
 the result of the knavery of one class and the ignorance and super- 
 stition of another. Do not let the glamour of romance thrown over 
 them ever deceive or mislead you as to their real character. When 
 we hear of the good they did, remember that the monks were their 
 own chroniclers. We have only to see what Chaucer says of them, 
 and the utter detestation in which they were held by the great mass 
 of the people, not only in Henry the Eighth's time, but long before, to 
 judge them rightly. There are weak and foolish people, at present, 
 urged on by designing men, who wish for their restoration, and have 
 actually established not a few of these abominable institutions in our 
 free England, where girls are incarcerated and strictly kept from 
 communicating with their friends, and wheie foolish youths play 
 
IN THE SOLENT. 53 
 
 the part of the monks of the dark ages. I am not afraid of your 
 turning Romanists, my boys, but it is important to be guarded on all 
 points. Just bring the monastic system to the test of Scripture, and 
 then you will see how utterly at variance it is from the lessons we 
 learn therein.' 
 
 We felt very nervous going down the river, for fear we should stick 
 on the mud, as the tide had already begun to ebb, and we might have 
 been left high and dry in a few minutes ; but, through Paul's pilotage 
 and papa's seamanship, we managed to avoid so disagreeable an 
 occurrence, and once more passing the beacon at the mouth of 
 the river, we steered for Cowes Roads, where we brought up at dark. 
 
 Next morning we saw the Dolphin anchored not far from us. To 
 save sending on board, we got out our signals, and the instruction 
 book which enables us to make use of them. 
 
 We first hoisted flags to show the number of the yacht in the club, 
 and waited until it was answered from the Dolphin. We next 
 hoisted four numbers without any distinguishing flag, which showed 
 the part of the book to which we referred, and meant, ' Are you ready 
 to sail 'I ' This was answered by a signal flag which meant ' Yes ; ' 
 whereupon we ran up four other numbers signifying, ' We will sail 
 immediately.' 
 
 As the Dolphin, which was to the east of us, began to get under 
 weigh, we did so likewise; and she soon came close enough to 
 enable us to carry on a conversation as we stood together to the 
 westward. 
 
 The shores both of the mainland and of the Isle of Wight are 
 covered thickly with woods, the former being portions of the New 
 Forest, which at one time extended over the whole of this part of 
 Hampshire, from Southampton W^ater to the borders of Dorsetshire. 
 On our left side we could see high downs rising in the distance, the 
 southern side of which we had seen when going round the back of 
 the island. 
 
 In a short time we came off" Newton River, now almost filled up 
 
54 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 with mud. Some way up it is a village, which, once upon a time, 
 was a town and returned a member to parliament. The hull of a 
 small man-of-war is anchored, or rather beached, on the mud near the 
 mouth of the river, and serves as a coast-guard station. 
 
 The wind shifting, we had to make a tack towards the mouth of 
 Lymington Creek, which runs down between mud-banks from the 
 town of Lymington, which is situated on the west side of the river. 
 On a height, on the east side, we could distinguish an obelisk raised 
 to the memory of Admiral Sir Harry Burrard Neale. He was a 
 great favourite of George the Third, as he w^as with all his family, 
 including William the Fourth. He was a very excellent officer and 
 a good, kind man, and was looked upon as the father of his crew. At 
 the mouth of the river is a high post with a basket on the top of it 
 known as Jack-in-the-basket. Whether or not a sailor ever did get 
 in there when wrecked, or whether on some occasion a real Jack was 
 placed there to shout out to vessels coming into the river, I am not 
 certain. 
 
 Passing the pleasant little town of Yarmouth, the wind once more 
 shifting enabled us to lay our course direct for Hurst Castle. We 
 passed the village of Freshwater, with several very pretty villas 
 perched on the hill on the west side of it. Here also is the com- 
 mencement of a line of batteries which extend along the shore 
 towards the Needles. The ground is high and broken, and very 
 picturesque, with bays, and points, and headlands. On our starboard, 
 or northern side, appeared the long spit of sand at the end of which 
 Hurst Castle stands, with two high red lighthouses like two giant 
 skittles. Besides the old castle, a line of immensely strong fortifica- 
 tions extend along the beach, armed with the heaviest guns, so that 
 from the batteries of the two shores an enemy's ship attempting to 
 enter would be sunk, or would be so shattered as to be unable to cope 
 wdth any vessel of inferior force sent against her. 
 
 The old castle is a cheese-like structure of granite, and was 
 considered, even when it stood alone, of great strength. Its chief 
 
IN THE SOLENT, 
 
 55 
 
 historical interest is derived from its having been the prison of Charles 
 the First when he was removed from Carisbrook Castle. After the 
 failure of the treaty of Newport, Charles was brought from Carisbrook, 
 which is almost in the centre of the Isle of Wight, to a small fort 
 called Worsley Tower, which stood above Sconce Point, to the 
 
 CARISBROOK CASTLE. 
 
 westward of the village of Freshwater. Here a vessel was in waiting, 
 which carried him and a few attendants over to Hurst, where he was 
 received by the governor. Colonel Eure, and kept under strict guard, 
 though not treated unkindly. From thence he was removed to 
 Windsor, and afterwards to London, where his execution took place. 
 
56 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 As we were examining with our glasses the powerful line of 
 fortifications, both on the Hurst beach and along the shore of the Isle 
 of Wight, papa remarked that he wished people would be as careful 
 in guarding their religious and political liberties as they are in 
 throwing up forts to prevent an enemy from landing on our shores. 
 Many appear to be fast asleep with regard to the sacred heritage we 
 have received from our forefathers, and allow disturbers of our peace 
 and faith, under various disguises, to intrude upon and undermine 
 the safeguards of our sacred rights and liberties. 
 
 Presently we found ourselves in a beautiful little spot called Alum 
 Bay. The cliffs have not the usual glaring white hue, but are striped 
 with almost every imaginable colour, the various tints taking a 
 perpendicular form, ranging from the top of the cliff to the sea. If we 
 could have transferred the colours to our pallet, I am sure we should 
 have found them sufficient to produce a brilliant painting. West of 
 the coloured cliffs is a line of very high white cliffs, extending to the 
 extreme west point of the island, at the end of which appear the 
 ]N eedle Rocks, rising almost perpendicularly out of the sea. Once upon 
 a time two of them were joined with a hollow, or eye, between them, 
 but that portion gave way at the end of the last century. On the 
 outer rock, by scraping the side, a platform has been formed, on which 
 stands a high and beautifully-built lighthouse, erected some 3^ears 
 ago. Formerly there was one on the top of the cliff, but it was so 
 high that it was frequently obscured by mist, and was not to be seen 
 by vessels steering for the Needles passage. 
 
 As we stood close into the shore, and looked up at the lofty cliffs, 
 we agreed that it was the grandest and most picturesque scene we 
 had yet visited. 
 
 On the other side of the channel are the Shingles, a dangerous sand- 
 bank, on which many vessels have been lost. A ledge of rocks 
 below the water runs off from the Needles, known as the Needle 
 Ledge. When a strong south-westerly wind is blowing, and the tide 
 is running out, there is here a very heavy sea. Vessels have also 
 
IN THE SOLENT. 
 
 59 
 
 been wrecked on the Needles ; and Paul Truck told us how a pilot 
 he once knew well saved the crew of a vessel which drove in during 
 the night on one of those rocks, which they had managed to reach by 
 means of the top-gallant yard. Here they remained until the pilot 
 brought a stout rope, which was hauled up by a thin line to the top 
 of the rock, and by means of it they all descended in safety. The 
 pilot's name was John Long. 
 
 SCKATCHELLS BAY. 
 
 Years before this a transport, with a number of troops on board, 
 was wrecked just outside the Needles, in Scratchells Bay. Being 
 high water, she drove close in under the cliffs, and thus the sailors 
 and crew were able to escape; and the next morning the cliff 
 appeared as though covered with lady-birds, footprints of the poor 
 
eo 
 
 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 fellows who had been endeavouring to make their way up the 
 precipitous sides. 
 
 Further round is a large cavern, in which it is said a Lord Holmes 
 — a very convivial noble and Governor of Yarmouth Castle — used to 
 hold his revels with his boon companions. But were I to book all 
 the stories we heard, I should fill my journal with them. 
 
 When we were a short distance outside the Needles, a superb steam 
 frigate passed us with top-sails and top-gallant sails set, steering 
 down channel. Papa looked at her with a seaman's eye. ' Well — 
 well, though she is not as beautiful as an old frigate, she looks like a 
 fine sea boat^ and as well able to go round the world as any craft 
 afloat, and to hold her own against all foes.' 
 
 Just at sunset, a light wind blowing, we took the bearings of 
 the Needles and Hurst lights, and stood for Swanage Bay, on the 
 Dorsetshire coast. 
 
 SWANAGE BAY. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 THE SOUTH COAST. 
 
 HEN we turned in, the yacht was speeding along with 
 a gentle breeze towards Swanage. The Needle light 
 showed brightly astern, and the two lights on Hurst 
 Point were brought almost into one, rather more on our 
 quarter. Oliver and I wanted to keep watch, but papa 
 laughed at us, and said we had much better sleep 
 soundly at night, and be wide awake during the day; and that if 
 anything occurred he would have us called. 
 
 Though Oliver and I said we would get up once or twice, to show 
 that we were good sailors, we did not, but slept as soundly as tops 
 until daylight streamed through the small skylight overhead into our 
 berths. 
 
 We had now learned not to knock our skulls against the beams ; 
 and both of us turning out slipped into our clothes, and thanked God 
 for having kept us safely during the night. On going on deck, what 
 was our surprise to find the Needle Rocks still in sight, with a high 
 point of land on our starboard beam, which Paul Truck told us was 
 Christchurch Head. 
 
 It was a perfect calm, not a ripple played over the surface of the 
 water, the sails scarcely giving even a flap. Not far off lay the 
 
62 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 Dolphin, equally motionless. The sun had not yet risen, but the 
 atmosphere was perfectly clear, and we could see objects to a great 
 distance. To the west of the head we observed a tower, which Truck 
 told us was that of the Priory ; and from thence to Hurst we observed 
 a line of cliffs of considerable height, with several villages on their 
 summit. 
 
 We got out our mackerel lines, hoping to catch some fish for break- 
 fast ; but there was not way enough on the vessel to give the bait 
 play, and none would bite. Paul walked up and down whistling for 
 a breeze ; but it did not come a bit the faster for that, as you may 
 suppose. Sailors have a notion — derived from some heathen custom 
 — that by whistling the spirit of the wind will be propitiated. This 
 is not surprising, when we remember that people on shore have a still 
 greater number of foolish notions derived from the same source. 
 
 When papa came on deck, he told us that Sir Harry Burrard 
 Neale, who commanded the San Firenzo, was at school at Christ- 
 church before he went to sea, that on one occasion, when playing a 
 game of 'follow my leader,' he, being the leader, mounted to the 
 top of the tower, and managed to scramble down again outside, few, 
 if any, of the boys daring to follow him. 
 
 The whole of the coast along which we were now sailing was in the 
 days of restrictive duties the scene of numberless smuggling transac- 
 tions. The smugglers were a bold, daring race — one part accom- 
 plished seamen ; the other, though accustomed to go afloat, possessors 
 of small farms and holdings on shore. The goods, either spirits, 
 tobacco, or silks, were brought across generally in large powerful 
 luggers, many of them in war-time strongly armed ; and when inter- 
 fered with by the king's ships they often fought desperately, and 
 managed to get away. The spot on which a cargo was to be landed 
 was fixed on beforehand. Generally, several were chosen, so that 
 should the Coastguard be on the watch near one, the smugglers, 
 warned by signals from the shore, might run to another. There, a 
 party of armed men, numbering some hundreds, would be ready to 
 
THE SOUTH COAST. 
 
 63 
 
 receive them. As soon as the goods were landed, they were carried 
 up the cliffs on men's shoulders, and placed in light carts and wagons. 
 
 CHRIST CHURCH AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. 
 
 which drove off with a mounted escort, who seldom failed to give 
 battle to the Revenue men if an attempt was made to stop them. 
 
64 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 Often severe fighting took place, and — except when a strong force of 
 military were brought down upon them — the smugglers generally 
 made their escape. The goods were either stowed away in secret 
 places or farm-houses in the neighbourhood, or carried off to London, 
 where they were handed over to the wealthy firms which supplied 
 the means for the trade. 
 
 In later years the smuggling vessels were smaller and unarmed, the 
 smugglers trusting to their cunning for success. Sometimes only 
 large boats or galleys were eaiployed, which pulled across the 
 Channel, timing themselves so as to reach the English coast some 
 time after dark. If a Revenue cutter was seen approaching, the 
 casks of spirits were loaded with stones, and being thrown overboard, 
 were sunk, the smuggler having first taken the bearings of the land, 
 so as to be able to return to the spot and drag for them. Sometimes 
 the Revenue cutter saw what was done, and performed that operation 
 instead of the smuggler, the ofiicers and crew thus obtaining a rich 
 prize at slight cost. So enormous was the profit, that if two or three 
 cargoes out of seven were run, the smugglers were content. 
 
 Smuggling of any sort is of course illegal. The Government puts 
 duties on commodities for the good of the State, which duties must be 
 paid, and the smuggler is cheating not only the Government but his 
 countrymen; yet many people formerly did not see it in its true 
 light, and even some gentlemen, blind to its dishonourable character, 
 encouraged the smugglers by buying their goods. Papa said that he 
 remembered in his boyish days a person of excellent position, knowing 
 that a cargo was to be run near his house, having invited the Revenue 
 ofiicers to dinner, made them all tipsy, and not letting them go until 
 he was informed that the cargo was safe on shore. He received a 
 portion as a reward for the service he had rendered. The greatest 
 knaves, however, were the merchants whose capital bought the goods 
 and whose warehouses were supplied by them. At one time the 
 greater portion of the population of the sea-board of Hampshire and 
 Dorsetshire were engaged more or less in the trade. 
 
THE SOUTH COAST. 
 
 65 
 
 While we were at breakfast we heard the mainsail give a loud flap, 
 and soon afterwards a pleasant rippling sound told us that the yacht 
 was moving through the water. In a short time we were close in 
 with the shore, just off Bournemouth, a watering-place which has 
 gained considerable popularity during the last few years. 
 
 BOURNEMOUTH. 
 
 We clearly saw a large number of houses and villas, with two 
 churches standing on the side of the hill, backed by dark pine groves. 
 A few years ago there were only a few cottages on a sand-bank, a 
 small stream, and a decoy pond in the neighbourhood. By keeping 
 out of the tide we made some way, and now standing to the south- 
 
 E 
 
66 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 ward on the port tack we came off Poole Harbour, looking up which 
 we could see the woods and a house on Branksea Island, and the 
 tower of what was once a castle erected for the defence of the place. 
 
 We were told that this island was purchased several years ago by 
 a colonel who married a rich heiress. The place was believed to 
 contain valuable clay and other productions ; and a firm of bankers, 
 having begged the colonel to become one of their directors, allowed 
 him to draw whatever amount he chose. Believing himself to be 
 possessed of unbounded wealth, he built a superb house and laid out 
 the grounds in splendid style, giving all sorts of expensive entertain- 
 ments. At length the bank broke, the bubble burst, and the unhappy 
 man was reduced to the extreme of penury, while numbers of 
 unfortunate people who had invested their money in the bank were 
 ruined. 
 
 We did not sail up the harbour ; but Paul Truck told us that the 
 town is of considerable size, and that it sends out a large number of 
 trading vessels. 
 
 Passing two high white rocks rising out of the water, called Old 
 Harry and his Wife, we stood on into Swanage Bay, where we 
 brought-up just off the little town. The boat was lowered, and we 
 pulled to the end of the wooden pier, on which we landed ; although 
 Oliver said we could not call it landing, seeing that it was not 
 land. However, we soon got on to the shore. As we looked about we 
 agreed that it was one of the prettiest little places we had been in. 
 
 To the left was a bright lawn, with trees here and there, and villas 
 dotted about. Some houses extend along the shore to the right, 
 while an old-fashioned looking street runs up the hill. We observed 
 large quantities of slabs of stone, which are quarried from the hills in 
 the neighbourhood. The ground beyond the town is completely 
 burrowed, like a huge rabbit-warren, and near the mouth of each 
 quarry are huts and sheds, where the stone, which is brought up in 
 the rough, is worked into shape. The men, instead of being blackened 
 like coal-miners, are covered with white dust. 
 
THE SOUTH COAST. 
 
 67 
 
 This portion of the country is called the Isle of Purbeck, although 
 it is in reality a peninsula. It is bounded on the north by Poole 
 Harbour and the river which passes Wareham, while the sea is on the 
 
 KEEP OF COKFE CASTLE. 
 
 two other sides ; and a small river, called Luxford Lake, rises from 
 some hills not far from the south shore, so that the place is almost 
 surrounded by water. ~^ 
 
68 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 About six miles off is Corfe Castle, on a hill almost in the centre of 
 Purbeck Island. It is a picturesque ruin, and full of interesting 
 associations. It was here that Edward, the dupe of the w41y Dunstan, 
 was murdered in the year 979, at the instigation of Elfrida, the widow 
 of Edgar, and Edward's mother-in-law, who wished to have her own 
 son, poor 'Ethelred the Unready,' upon the throne. A far more 
 interesting event connected with it was the defence made by Lady 
 Bankes, the wife of the owner, in 1643, against the Parliamentary 
 forces. It must have been in those days a very strong place, for 
 Lady Bankes, with her daughter and her maid-servants, assisted 
 by five soldiers, successfully defended the middle ward against 
 the attack of one of the storming divisions, the whole defensive 
 force not exceeding eighty men, unprovided with cannon. It 
 would probably have fallen, however, had not Lord Carnarvon 
 raised the siege. 
 
 Near Swanage also, in the middle of an open heath, is the celebrated 
 Aggie Stone, or holy stone, though it is more generally known at 
 present as the Devil's Night-cap. It is a long stone poised on a single 
 point. We agreed that it was something like a giant mushroom. 
 The country people say it was thrown from the Isle of Wight, with 
 the intention of destroying Corfe Castle, but that, falling short, it 
 descended where we found it, on the top of the hill, eighty or ninety 
 feet high. We could not decide whether it was placed here by art or 
 Nature, for similar stones exist in other places where water and the 
 atmosphere have cleared away the surrounding earth. Papa was 
 of opinion that it was formed by natural causes. 
 
 Getting under weigh from Swanage, we stood round Peveril Point 
 and Durlestone Head. The wind being off shore, we kept close in 
 with the coast, which consists of high cliffs full of fossils, we were 
 told. As we were passing St. Alban's, or St. Aldhelm's Head, we got 
 out our mackerel lines. We had half a dozen each, about forty 
 fathoms long. To each line were fastened eight or ten snoods : a snood 
 is a short line with a hook at the end. At first we baited with pieces 
 
THE SOUTH COAST, 69 
 
 of white linen, as the mackerel is a greedy fish, and will bite at any 
 glittering object in the water. 
 
 ' Two lines overboard will be enough, or they will be fouhng each 
 other,' observed Truck. 
 
 Oliver took charge of one, I of the other. They had not been in the 
 water two minutes when Oliver cried out, 'Hurrah, I've hooked a 
 fish ! ' He was hauling in his line, when two more were seen skip- 
 ping along on the surface, glittering in the sunlight. At the same 
 time I felt several tugs at my line, and on hauling it in I found that 
 I had four fish on — long, elegantly shaped fish they were, with blue 
 grey backs and white bellies. In half an hour we had caught two 
 dozen — more than enough for all hands for supper and breakfast. 
 
 The next morning, the wind having been very light, we ran into a 
 little harbour of rare beauty called Lulworth Cove. The entrance 
 is very narrow, with rugged abrupt cliffs rising far above the mast- 
 head ; and when we were once in we appeared to be in a perfect basin, 
 the sides consisting of high white walls towering to the sky, with 
 cottages in an opening on one side ; while the sandy bottom could 
 almost be seen through the tranquil water, clear as crystal. The chffs 
 consist of Portland stone. The strata in some places have a curious 
 appearance, resembling huge twisted trees. In one side are caves 
 of various sizes, and here also fossils in great numbers are found. 
 Landing, we walked about two miles to Lulworth Castle, belonging to 
 Mr. Edward Weld, the son of the owner of the celebrated yachts the 
 Lulworth and Alarm. The castle is a square-shaped building, with a 
 tower at each corner ; it has long, narrow windows, and is handsomely 
 fitted up. Both James the First and Charles the Second at different 
 times inhabited it, as did several later sovereigns down to William the 
 Fourth. It formerly belonged to Cardinal Weld, who left it to his 
 brother, the late owner. 
 
 Though interested with what we saw on shore, we were always glad 
 to get on board and enjoy the open sea. Sailing on, we in a short time 
 reached Weymouth Roads, and hove to off" the mouth of the river Wey, 
 
70 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 on both sides of which the town is built, with a fine esplanade ex- 
 tending along the shore for a considerable distance. Good old King 
 George the Third used to reside here in a house built by his brother, 
 the Duke of Gloucester, now turned into the ' Gloucester Hotel.' One 
 object in his coming was to sail on board a frigate commanded by his 
 favourite captain, Sir Harry Neale. 
 
 The king frequently wanted to go much further out to sea than 
 was considered prudent. On such occasions the captain used to pro- 
 pose either whist or chess. As soon as His Majesty was observed to 
 be absorbed in the game, the ship was put about and headed back 
 towards the shore. When the king got tired of playing, and was 
 about to return on deck, the ship's head was put off shore again. 
 He either did not find out the trick played him, or was well aware 
 that it was done for his advantage, and said nothing. The king and 
 Sir Harry often played chess together, when the king, who played 
 very badly, was generally beaten. Sometimes His Majesty played 
 with some of the courtiers, on which occasions he was nearly always 
 successful ; when, however, the courtiers played with Sir Harry, they 
 beat him. The king observing this, remarked, one day, with a smile : 
 
 ' It does seem very odd, when I play with Sir Harry he beats me ; 
 when Lord So-and-So plays with him, he gets the worst of it ; but 
 when Lord So-and-So plays with me, I gain the day. Very strange — 
 very strange.' 
 
 On one occasion the frigate was going from Portsmouth to Wey- 
 mouth, when she was hailed by a boat which had come off from the 
 shore. The captain hove-to, and an old Scotch couple came up the 
 side. On the object of their visit being enquired, they stated that 
 they had come all the way from Scotland to look for their son, who 
 was on board a man-of-war ; and that they had been at Portsmouth, 
 and had searched for him in vain at a number of other seaports. 
 
 On asking the name, ' David Campbell,' was the answer. Sir Harry 
 enquired whether such a man was on board. ' Yes,' was the reply. 
 Davy Campbell being called, a fine youth made his appearance, who 
 
THE SOUTH COAST. 71 
 
 was immediately recognized by the old couple, and received a fond 
 embrace. 
 
 The captain carried them to Weymouth, where the king, hearing 
 their story, spoke to them kindly, and made them a handsome present ; 
 while Sir Harry promised to look after their boy ; and they went home 
 rejoicing in the success of their efforts to see him once more. I hope 
 he promised to write to them, in future, and to let them know of his 
 welfare, and that he got back to Scotland again to see them before 
 they died. 
 
 The king used to speak to the officers and men in the kindest way, 
 and frequently to call up the young midshipmen and give them 
 fatherly advice. Papa's father was a midshipman on board, so that he 
 had heard a great deal about the king and Queen Charlotte, 
 
 One day Sir Harry, who had months before received a present of 
 bottled green peas^ recollecting them, ordered them to be prepared for 
 dinner. On the queen being helped, Sir Harry, who had forgotten 
 when green peas were in season, observed to Her Majesty, ' These peas 
 have been in bottle a whole year.' 
 
 'So I did think,' answered the queen, pressing one of them with 
 her fork, and sending it flying out of her plate and hitting His Majesty 
 on the nose. They were almost as hard as swan-shot. In those days 
 the way of preserving vegetables was not so well understood as at 
 present. 
 
 The king was often sadly ill-treated, according to his own account, 
 by those in authority, and would complain amusingly about trifles. 
 One grievance was that he never had the satisfaction of wearing soft 
 linen, for that as soon as his shirts had worn smooth they were taken 
 away, and their places supplied with new harsh ones. So that, after 
 all, sovereigns are not more free from the discomforts of life than are 
 other people ! ^ 
 
 We heard these anecdotes as we were standing towards Portland 
 Harbour, formed by a magnificent breakwater of granite, which runs 
 out from the shore to the east, and then circles round with an 
 
72 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 opening about the centre. It was built to form a harbour of refuge, 
 as no other exists along the coast which can be entered at all times 
 between the Needles and Plymouth.y^ 
 
 We were struck by the enormous blocks of stone of which it is 
 constructed. They were all quarried from the Isle of Portland, which ' 
 forms one side of the harbour, by convicts who are confined in a 
 large stone prison at the top of the hill. Both on the breakwater 
 and on shore are strong stone forts for the defence of the harbour, 
 in which, in time of war, would also be stationed some heavy 
 ironclads ; so that a large squadron alone would venture to annoy 
 the shipping within. 
 
 The yachts brought-up, and we went on shore to walk along 
 the breakwater and to inspect some of the fortifications. Near 
 us were two enormous ironclads ; and as we pulled by them we 
 could not help remarking what magnificent-looking craft they 
 appeared, though Uncle Tom said that he would just as soon go 
 round the world in the Dolphin as he would in one of those huge 
 monsters. 
 
 A railway is laid along the top of the breakwater to carry stones 
 and guns to the further end. Papa told us that some years ago, 
 while it was in the course of construction, he came to see it ; that 
 as he was looking towards the end he perceived an engine coming 
 along. He stepped on one side to avoid it, when, as it drew near, 
 he observed the driver making a signal to him. He had just time 
 to spring on to a wooden platform at the edge, when another engine, 
 coming from the opposite direction, passed over the spot on which 
 he had been standing. In an instant he would have been crushed 
 to death. 'How grateful did I feel to God that I had been thus 
 mercifully preserved ! ' he said. 
 
 At the outer end of the breakwater there is a lighthouse, with a 
 single fixed red light, so that it cannot be mistaken for any other 
 of the neighbouring lights. At the end of the south pier-head of 
 Weymouth Harbour is also a single red fixed light; but it is far 
 
THE SOUTH COAST, 75 
 
 away to the northward of the breakwater light, and cannot be seen 
 at any great distance. 
 
 The Portland Breakwater is indeed a magnificent work. The plans 
 were designed by Mr. Rendel, and the estimated cost was six hundred 
 thousand pounds. The first stone was laid by Prince Albert, in July, 
 1849. The whole length is nearly a mile and a half. It first runs 
 out from the Isle of Portland for 1,800 feet, when it is finished by 
 a circular head of solid masonry. Then, for about four hundred 
 feet, there is an opening through which vessels may enter or run 
 to sea in case of necessity. Then comes another circular head similar 
 to the first, from which the principal part of the breakwater extends 
 in the same straight line for about three hundred feet, and then 
 curves round to the north for 5,400 ft. It was formed — in the first 
 instance — by extending stages in the direction required, on which 
 rails were laid down to support the stone- wagons pushed by loco- 
 motives to the outer end. The wagons, on reaching their destination, 
 were tilted up, and the stone dropped down to the bottom. Thus 
 the work was continued gradually until the outer end was reached. 
 The stones after they were thrown down were placed in the required 
 position by divers, who worked with crowbars. A dangerous em- 
 ployment it must have been. A man employed on the breakwater 
 who accompanied us told us that on one occasion the air-pipe burst, 
 and that, although the diver immediately gave the signal, when he 
 was hauled up he was nearly dead. Another poor fellow did not 
 answer the tug, which a man in a boat above gave every half-minute. 
 When he was hauled in it was found that the water had run under 
 the joints of his helmet and drowned him. There were ^ye lines 
 of rail laid down, each carrying trucks pushed by locomotives. We 
 were told that 2,500 tons of stone were by this means dropped every 
 day into the ocean ; and though thus actively working, it was long 
 before the artificial rock appeared above the surface. 
 
 Sometimes several weeks passed, load after load being dropped 
 in, before the mass was of sufficient size to rise above the water. 
 
76 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND, 
 
 After having been left some time to consolidate, the summit was 
 capped by blocks of hewn stone, rising from low-tide mark to many 
 feet above that of high water, so that the sea during the fiercest 
 gale could not force its way over it. The piles to support the stage 
 were what are called screw piles ; they were ninety feet in length, 
 and soaked in creosote to preserve them, the weight of each being 
 about seven tons. One of the most curious operations was that of 
 forcing the creosote into the piles. It was done by placing them 
 in an iron cylinder one hundred feet in length, and six feet in 
 diameter. Out of this the air was first pumped, and then the creosote 
 was pumped in. 
 
 All the stones were brought from the neighbouring hill, where they 
 were quarried by about eight hundred convicts. The trucks de- 
 scended from the hill down an incline, the full trucks dragging up 
 the empties by means of ropes and blocks. Upwards of five million 
 tons of stone were thus employed. 
 
 While visiting the prison we heard a number of anecdotes about 
 the convicts. Notwithstanding all the vigilance of the warders and 
 guards, several have contrived to make their escape. On a dark 
 night, during exceedingly thick weather, a daring fellow managed 
 to scale the walls and drop down outside unperceived. He at once 
 made his way to the shore, where he in vain searched for a boat. 
 Being no sailor, had he found one, he would have been unable to 
 manage her. He knew that should he attempt to make his way 
 over-land he would, to a certainty, be re-taken. Finding a piece 
 of wreck, with some broken oars, and other drift-wood, and a coil 
 of rope, he contrived to put together a raft, on which seating himself, 
 he shoved off*, expecting to be picked up by some passing vessel. 
 Instead of this, he was — fortunately for himself — discovered by the 
 active coastguardmen, and brought back to prison. Had he suc- 
 ceeded in getting to a distance, in all probability he would have 
 been drowned or starved to death. 
 
 Climbing to the top of the hill, we obtained a view to the north- 
 
THE SOUTH COAST, 77 
 
 ward of the crescent-shaped line of shingle, ten miles long, called 
 Chesil Bank, which joins Portland to the main land. At the Portland 
 end the pebbles are of the size of a hen's Qgg, gradually diminishing 
 to that of a bean at the other extremity. This enabled smugglers 
 to ascertain on the darkest night the part of the shore they had 
 reached. The west side of the bank is known as Dead Man's Bay, 
 from the number of persons who have perished there. The most 
 disastrous event occurred in 1794, when a fleet of transports, under 
 convoy of Admiral Christian, bound out for the West Indies, stranded 
 in the bay, and one thousand persons were drowned. In this century, 
 the Abergavenny and Alexander (Indiamen) were driven on this 
 treacherous shore, and upwards of two hundred persons perished; 
 and as late as 1838, the Columbine was wrecked on the bank, and 
 many of her crew lost. In those days there were no life-boats to 
 hasten to the rescue of the helpless seamen. 
 
 Passing amid quarries, we observed enormous square blocks of 
 stone hewn out and ready to be transported to the shore by carts, 
 with long teams of horses harnessed — often nine together. In the 
 upper layer of the quarries was discovered a fossil pine-tree, upwards 
 of thirty feet in length, and a foot in diameter, with two or three 
 branches. 
 
 Next morning we and the Dolphin again got under weigh, and 
 the wind being off* shore stood close round the Bill of Portland, 
 having the Shambles light vessel, which has a single fixed light, on 
 our port beam. The Shambles is a large shoal, so called from the 
 number of vessels lost on it with all hands. A fine Indiaman was 
 wrecked there many years ago, coming home full of passengers, not 
 one of whom was saved. In another day they expected to be re- 
 united to their friends, from whom they had long been absent. How 
 sad it seems ! We who were sailing over the comparatively tranquil 
 sea could scarcely believe it possible that so many of our fellow- 
 creatures had thus perished within sight of land. -^ 
 
 In former years many ships were lost in consequence of the masters 
 
78 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 not knowing their exact position. In the present day the coast is 
 much better lighted than formerly. The character of every part of 
 the bottom of the Channel is well known, so that a ship may grope 
 her way up with the lead going, the mud, sand, or shells, which 
 are brought up sticking to the grease in a little hollow at the end 
 of the lead, showing whereabouts she is. Then the quadrants, chrono- 
 meters, and other nautical instruments are of superior construction, 
 and their use better understood ; and, lastly, compasses indicate more 
 truly the direction in which the ship is sailing. Not that compasses 
 themselves are at fault, but that — as papa explained to us — every 
 compass of a ship is influenced by the iron on board the vessel. 
 Now, before a ship sails she is swung round in all directions, so 
 that the exact amount of the influence exercised by the iron is 
 ascertained, and allowance made accordingly. There are also a 
 large number of careful pilots on the look-out for ships coming 
 up Channel. However, after a long course of thick weather and con- 
 trary winds, the most experienced master is unable to be certain 
 of his true position ; and, notwithstanding all the precautions 
 taken, ships are sometimes carried out of their course, or caught 
 on a lee shore, and driven on the rocks and wrecked. I have been 
 speaking of sailing vessels. Steamers have an advantage ; but 
 even they, from the effects of currents and tides, sometimes get 
 out of their course, or an accident happens to the machinery, or a 
 gale comes on and drives them, in spite of all efforts of paddle or 
 screw, on shore. 
 
 We kept inside the Race, which in stormy weather, with the wind 
 meeting the tide, is excessively dangerous. The seas rise up as if 
 some power is moving the water from beneath, and letting it suddenly 
 fall down again. When it thus falls down on the deck of a small 
 vessel, all steerage- way being lost, she is drifted along, utterly 
 helpless, by the tide, and if heavily laden, possibly sent to the bottom. 
 Vessels, however, when passing the Bill of Portland, keep outside 
 the Race, or, when the wind is off" the land, close to the shore, as 
 
THE SOUTH COAST. 79 
 
 we were doing. When they are caught by a current in a calm, they 
 are drifted through it. 
 
 The men at the lighthouses have on several occasions seen a vessel 
 suddenly disappear beneath the foaming water, which, leaping up, 
 had carried her to the bottom exactly as if she had been dragged 
 down by the tentacula of some marine monster. 
 
 Near the end of the Bill are two white towers, of different heights, 
 one thirty-two and the other eighty-six feet high. They are the 
 lighthouses, and in each of them is a bright fixed light. They stand 
 over fifteen hundred feet apai-t, and both lights can be seen at a 
 great distance, — the highest being visible four miles further off than 
 the lowest. 
 
 Close to the summit of the cliffs stand two castles, overlooking 
 the wide expanse of the Channel. One, surrounded by embattled 
 walls, is Pennsylvania Castle. It was built by the grandson of the 
 great William Penn, the founder of Pennsylvania in America, and 
 was so called after it. Its large windows show that it was not 
 intended as a fortification, and, of course, a few shot from a modern 
 gun would knock it to pieces. On the further side of a dip or valley, 
 on the summit of a point of rock commanding a magnificent view 
 along the coast, stands a far more ancient edifice, a tower in the 
 shape of a pentagon, commonly said to have been built by William 
 Rufus, and called Bow and Arrow Castle from the small circular 
 apertures pierced in the walls for shooting arrows. There are large 
 brackets above them, from which were suspended planks for the 
 protection of the garrison when hurling their missiles at the foe. 
 
 We talked a good deal about the Quaker Penn, who, being the son 
 of the renowned Admiral Sir William Penn, sacrificed all the 
 advantages which his social position afforded him for the sake of the 
 gospel, and with the hope of spreading its benign truths among the 
 heathen of the New World, and of affording refuge to those driven 
 forth from their native land by persecution. 
 
 On getting round the Bill of Portland we saw a-head the sandy cliff 
 
80 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 of Bridport, two hundred feet in height, with dark and rugged 
 eminences beyond, the Golden Cap of brighter hue rising above them. 
 
 We now stood across West Bay, towards Torquay. Finding the 
 tide against us, we kept close enough in shore to be able to distinguish 
 places with our glasses. The first harbour off which we came was 
 Bridport, a town of considerable size. The port is formed by two 
 piers^ with a basin further in. A number of vessels for the Newfound- 
 land fishers are fitted out here. About a couple of miles from the 
 entrance is the Pollock Shoal ; but our craft drew so little water that 
 we might have passed over it without danger of striking. 
 
 To the west of Bridport we saw Charmouth, with its lovely wooded 
 heights, and next to it Lyme Regis, which has a breakwater running 
 out of it called the Cobb, within which there is shelter for vessels. 
 Once upon a time it was a place of considerable trade. During 
 Cromwell's days the town was strongly Eepublican, and held out 
 gallantly against Prince Maurice, who came to invest it, even the 
 women putting on red cloaks and men's hats, to look like soldiers. It 
 was here also that the unfortunate Duke of Monmouth landed, to try 
 and gain a kingdom, but ere long to lose his head. 
 
 Still further west, we came ofi* the white and lofty cliflF known as 
 Beer Head. Near to it is Beer, a fishing village possessing ' an 
 ancient and fish-like smell.' The inhabitants are primitive in their 
 habits, and were at one time as daring smugglers as any on the coast. 
 
 As the wind fell we dropped anchor, and pulled on shore, to visit a 
 curious cavern, partly natural and partly a stone quarry. We carried 
 with us all the lanterns we could muster from both vessels. We 
 could not at first see the mouth, owing to a cloud produced by the 
 difierent temperature of the outer air and that from within. The 
 entrance is under a rocky archway, over which hung in rich festoons 
 wreaths of green foliage. For some distance we had to grope our 
 way through a narrow low passage, with the water dripping down on 
 our heads. At last we found ourselves in a huge cavern supported by 
 substantial pillars. In the more ancient part, from which stone was. 
 
THE SOUTH COAST. 81 
 
 quarried by picks, the sides and roof were perfectly smooth. In one 
 place there was a dome, with four well-formed arches, not unlike the 
 interior of a cathedral crypt. From hence we were told the stone was 
 hewn for the building of Exeter Cathedral. The modern portions of 
 the cavern have been excavated by gunpowder, which has of course 
 torn off huge masses without any regard to symmetry. 
 
 When we returned on board, Paul Truck told us that in days of 
 yore a smuggler bold — Jack Rattenbury by name — took possession of 
 the cavern, in which to store his goods after he had safely landed them 
 from his lugger. For some time he carried on his trade undiscovered, 
 for, being a cautious man, he dug a vault, in which his cargoes of 
 brandy and bales of lace and silks were concealed, covering the floor 
 over again with heaps of stone. The Revenue officers, however, at 
 length got scent of Jack's doings, and came in strong force, hoping to 
 capture him and take possession of his property. But he had received 
 timely notice, and nothing could be found within the cavern. 
 
 Of course they did not fail to pay many a subsequent visit. Once 
 more Jack — hearing that they were coming when his vault was full of 
 goods, and that they had an inkling of the true state of the case — 
 managed to carry off a considerable portion. The remainder fell into 
 their hands as the reward of their perseverance. Shortly afterwards 
 Jack himself was captured by the Revenue officers^ who got possession 
 of all his contraband goods. In the larder of his house was a fat 
 goose, which they were' anxious to possess, in order to have a feast to 
 commemorate their success, but the goose not being contraband, they 
 dared not take possession of it, so they offered to purchase the bird at 
 a large price. Jack and his wife, however, were firm. Nothing 
 would induce them to sell the goose, though money might be useful to 
 Jack, who was to be carried off to prison ; and the officers were fain 
 to be content with the bread and cheese and cider with which he 
 supplied them. Jack used to tell the story with great glee, observing 
 that the goose was well stuffed with point lace, every yard of which 
 was worth ten times as much as the bird. 
 
 F 
 
82 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 The smuggler sometimes turned the tables on his pursuers. A 
 daring Revenue officer having suddenly come upon him, Jack and his 
 companions seized the unfortunate man, and kept him fast bound until 
 they had removed all their merchandise. Though supposed to be 
 unusually successful, and looked upon as the prince of smugglers in 
 those parts. Jack did not manage to save money, and ultimately died 
 a poor man. Papa said that such a clever, ingenious fellow must 
 have made his fortune in any honest business.;^ 
 
 We were becalmed off Sidmouth while attempting to reach Exmouth, 
 at the mouth of the river Exe, some way up which stands the large 
 town of Exeter. Though some distance from the shore, we could hear 
 plainly the rumble of the trains as they passed along the railway, the 
 water being a great conductor of sound. We had a lantern with a 
 bright light hanging from the forestay, to show .our position to any 
 passing steamer which might otherwise have run us down. This was 
 the only danger to be apprehended, for no sailing vessel could have 
 come near us, and at the distance Ave were from the land there was 
 no risk of being drifted on the rocks. 
 
 Uncle Tom hailed us, and we went on board the Dolphin to supper. 
 Of course we heard many anecdotes about that part of the country. 
 Uncle Tom, who had spent some time at Sidmouth, described it to 
 us. The surrounding scenery is highly picturesque. It was while 
 residing here, for the sake of his health, that the Duke of Kent died. 
 In the same house the Queen spent much of her childhood. 
 
 At a village near Beer, where the women are employed in manu- 
 facturing lace. Her Majesty's wedding dress was made. The country 
 people throughout the district are employed in the manufacture of 
 lace. 
 
 On the shore hereabouts, all sorts of marine curiosities can be 
 picked up, such as petrified wood, madrepores, jaspers, agates, and a 
 variety of shells. 
 
 Near Sidmouth is a very interesting house, which is thrown open 
 occasionally to public view by the proprietor. In [^the garden are 
 
THE SOUTH COAST. 
 
 83 
 
 glass houses, in which oranges, vines, pines, and the most beautiful 
 orchids grow, with pineries, and ferneries, and formerly there weie 
 aviaries, and a menagerie of curious animals, and in the cottage are 
 preserved a number of rare things. 
 
 Further inland is Budleigh Salterton, so named after its buddle, or 
 stream, which running through the village makes its way slowly down 
 to the sea. Near here is a homestead called Hayes Barton, at which 
 
 TEIGNMOUTH PIER. 
 
 Sir Walter Raleigh was born. The house remaiiis much as it was in 
 his days, and in the parlour the wide hearth is still to be seen at 
 which he used to sit and smoke his pipe. It was here that the 
 servant, coming in — never having before. seBn his master so employed 
 — threw a tankard of water over Sir Walter, fancying that he was on 
 fire. 
 
 As we returned on board the Lively, we observed two white fixed 
 lights, which marked the entrance to Teignmouth Harbour, showing 
 us clearly our position. 
 
 F 2 
 
84 
 
 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND, 
 
 When the morning broke we were stiil off the ruddy cliffs which 
 line the shore. A person first seeing this part of the coast would 
 consider that Albion was a misnomer for England, as no walls of 
 white chalk are to be seen rising from the blue ocean. As far as the 
 eye can reach, various tints of red prevail. 
 
 A light breeze carried us into Babbicombe Bay, and we were again 
 becalmed off some curiously-shaped rocks, which lie off a point called 
 
 THE BEACH, BABBICOMBE. 
 
 Bob's Nose. It was rather tantalising not to be able to get in to see 
 more of the scenery of that most picturesque bay. We could, however, 
 distinguish the houses among the rich groves on the top of the cliffs, 
 in which were openings, with pretty cottages perched on projecting 
 ledges, while others were built close down to the water. Two yachts 
 were at anchor in the bay, which we agreed must be a capital yachting 
 
THE SOUTH COAST. 85 
 
 place, as a vessel can get in or out at all times, and it is sheltered 
 from every wind except from the east. We had our mackerel lines 
 out whenever the vessel was moving through the water. Though, as 
 before, we at first baited with pieces of white linen, yet as soon as a 
 mackerel was caught, we put a bit of it on to our hooks, at which its 
 relatives eagerly bit. The ends of the lines were fastened either to 
 the backstay or the taffrail, allowing them to pass over our finger, so 
 that the moment a mackerel took the bait we could feel it. We then 
 hauled in, the fish appearing at the surface skipping and jumpiug like 
 a mass of silver. We caught a dozen fine fish before breakfast, and 
 they were immediately frizzing away on the fire. As we could not 
 move along, we amused ourselves with our spy-glasses, observing 
 what was going forward on shore. 
 
 While thus employed a party came off in a couple of boats to picnic 
 on one of the green islands off Bob's Nose. The first thing most of 
 the people did, as soon as they had deposited their baskets on a 
 comparatively level space at the bottom, was to try and climb up to 
 the summit, which is of considerable height. The sides are steep, 
 and present a surface of soft green grass. We saw one fat old lady, 
 evidently ambitious of vying with her younger companions, making 
 an attempt to reach the top with the aid of a boatman and one of the 
 gentlemen of the party. Up she went some distance, when she stopped, 
 though not for long, and panted for breath ; then on again she pro- 
 ceeded, though not so quickly. But the task was clearly beyond her 
 power. Again and again she stopped. In vain her two supporters 
 tugged. We saw her making gestures, as if imploring to be let alone. 
 At length down she plumped on the turf, signing to her friends to 
 leave her. For some time she appeared to be tolerably comfortable, 
 though we saw her fanning herself, and puffing and blowing, while her 
 companions quickly went on and joined the rest of the party, who had 
 gained the summit. It would have been prudent in her to remain 
 quiet, but unwisely she moved onwards. 
 
 ^ She's gathering way ! ' exclaimed Uncle Tom ; and, sure enough, 
 
86 
 
 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 down she began to slide, at first very slowly, but as an impetus was 
 gained, she went faster and faster. In vain she screamed for help. 
 The soft grass afforded no hold to the frantic grasps she made at it. 
 Her cries reached us. Her companions must have been very hard of 
 hearing, for it was not until she had slid two-thirds of the way down 
 that any of them seemed to attend to her, and then the whole party set 
 off rushing down the hill-side, at the bottom of which they stood ready 
 to receive her. Though much frightened, she was not, I think, much hurt. 
 
 Tom and Jack came on board to 
 luncheon, and we agreed to row in to 
 3^m!^^-^^^^^^^' " ~- Torquay, and to allow the yachts 
 
 to follow; but just as we were 
 shoving off a breeze sprang up, so we jumped on board again, and, 
 rounding Bob^s Nose, we were able with a few tacks to make our way 
 into the harbour. We brought-up in the inner harbour, but the 
 Dolphin remained at anchor outside. 
 
 Torquay is one of the prettiest sea-side places in England. From 
 the water we observed the houses on the hill-sides, with beautiful 
 villas scattered about in all directions amid groves of green trees. 
 
THE SOUTH COAST. 89 
 
 The shore along the north side of the bay is indented by numerous 
 little bays called coves ; the water is deep and clear, so that they are 
 much frequented by bathers. One is appropriated to ladies, another 
 to gentlemen. At the end of the last century Torquay consisted only 
 of a few fishermen's cottages scattered about the beach. 
 
 We took an interesting walk on shore, which we greatly enjoyed. 
 We visited a curious natural cavern called Kent's Cavern. The 
 scenery round the entrance is thickly wooded and wild in the extreme, 
 probably just as it has been for centuries. We were told that it runs 
 for upwards of six hundred feet into the bowels of the earth, and has 
 numerous branches and ramifications. We had brought a guide and 
 lights with us, so that we could explore it without risk. We could 
 see, imbedded in the rock, bones of animals which at some remote 
 period made it their abode ; and naturalists, who dig them out, say 
 that they belong to tribes which are only found in tropical climates. 
 Our guide showed us that there are three distinct layers or floors of 
 earth in the cavern. In the topmost are found beads and various 
 instruments manufactured by the Saxons, as well as the bones of foxes 
 and badgers. In the next strata are the bones of elephants, of rhino- 
 ceroses, of lions and hyenas, of wolves and elks. In the third layer 
 are the bones of bears, which must have been of great size, as also of 
 a nondescript animal said to be between a lion and a bear. Curiously 
 enough, judging from the remains found in them, the branches on one 
 side indicate the favourite habitation of elephants, while on the other, 
 packs of wolves were in the habit of taking up their abode. Probably 
 the more savage beasts of prey dragged in the carcases of tlie creatures 
 they had killed ; and they in their turn dying, left their bones mingled 
 with the others. We were told that flint knives were found along 
 with the bones of animals which for ages have become extinct, pointing 
 to a period when the country must have been inhabited by races of 
 men as uncivilised as the South Sea Islanders. Possibly it might 
 have been at a period antecedent to the flood, when our island was 
 joined to the Continent. 
 
90 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 The next morning we got under weigh, and stood across to Brixham, 
 on the south side of Torbay. There is a wide beach all the way along 
 the whole sweep of the bay, except near Brixham, where the cliffs 
 again rise, and extend to the southern point called Bury Head. 
 Brixham is one of the largest fishing villages on the coast. The 
 inhabitants own a number of vessels. At few places is a greater 
 quantity of shells to be picked up of all descriptions, of which we 
 collected a number in a few minutes, when we pulled ashore. Some 
 of the shells were four or five inches loDg. The occupant has the 
 power of working itself rapidly into the soft sand, to get out of 
 harm's way. We saw some, but they suddenly popped down, and 
 were far out of our reach when we attempted to dig them up. 
 
 Brixham will ever be memorable as the place where the Prince of 
 Orange landed. We looked at the stone on which he placed his foot 
 when he first stepped on shore. It was a glorious day for liberty 
 when his fleet of seventy ships, carrying fourteen thousand men, stood 
 in the bay. The inhabitants were inclined to look askance at the 
 invaders when they landed, recollecting the horrors they had endured 
 at the hands of Judge Jeffreys after the death of Monmouth ; but 
 when they saw the banner of the prince unfurled, bearing the inscrip- 
 tion of ' God and the Protestant religion,' and he addressed them, 
 saying, with a Dutch accent, ' Mein people, mein goot people ! Be 
 not afraid I I am come for your goot, and for all your goots ; ' and 
 when they saw the gallant array by which he was surrounded, their 
 courage revived, and loud acclamations rent the air. It was the dawn 
 of a new era; and England owes a deep debt of gratitude to the 
 memory of the gallant prince by whose means our civil and religious 
 liberties have been secured on a basis which can never be undermined 
 unless by our own folly and supineness, although treacherous enemies 
 within are insidiously making the attempt. 
 
 Papa made these remarks, and we all heartily agreed with him. 
 Torbay affords excellent anchorage except when the wind is to the 
 east, towards which direction it is perfectly open ; and fearful acci- 
 
THE SOUTH COAST. 
 
 91 
 
 dents have occurred when gales have suddenly sprung up from 
 that quarter. Some years ago upwards of sixty vessels — some of 
 large size — had stood into the bay during a strong westerly wind. 
 During the night it suddenly veered round to the east, and blew a 
 tremendous gale, the rain pouring in torrents. Having brought-up 
 close to one another, they were unable to beat out, and some breaking 
 loose drove against others. One large vessel drove against the pier 
 with a tremendous crash, which awakened the inhabitants from their 
 slumbers. The brave fishermen — knowing what had occurred — 
 rushed out to render assistance, and were the means of saving many 
 of the crew. A little boy was thrown by a seaman from the ship, and 
 caught in the arms of a fisherman. Several vessels went down at 
 their anchors, others were cast on shore. When morning broke many 
 others were seen to founder with all hands, there being no possibility 
 of rendering their crews any assistance. The whole shore was strewn 
 with dead bodies thrown up by the foaming seas, r^ 
 
 THE BEACH, SIDMOUTH. 
 
CHAPTEE IV. 
 
 THE SOUTH COAST — coiitiuued. 
 
 T an early hour the next morning, the Dolphin and we got 
 under weigh, with a northerly breeze, and rounding Berry 
 Head stood for Froward Point, at the eastern side of 
 Dartmouth Harbour. We had to keep at a distance from 
 it, to avoid a reef of rocks which runs off that part of the 
 coast. The entrance of Dartmouth Harbour is picturesque, 
 with high rocks on both sides. It is, or rather once was, guarded by 
 a castle on either hand. That on Dartmouth is still held as a 
 military post. The castle on the King's Wear side is now fitted up 
 as a private residence. In the days of Edward the Fourth the men 
 of Dartmouth received thirty pounds a year on condition of their 
 building a mighty defensive tower, and extending a long chain to 
 reach across to King's Wear. Running up the Dart, we came to an 
 anchor opposite the town, which stands on a level space. Few rivers 
 in England have so picturesque an entrance as the Dart, the scenery 
 of which, though less bold as we proceeded higher up, is very pretty. 
 From the Dart sailed the fleet of Coeur de Lion, when he led the 
 Crusaders to the Holy Land. In this neighbourhood also was born 
 John Davis, the Arctic explorer, whose name is given to the strait at 
 the entrance of Baffin's Bay, which he discovered when on his 
 
THE SOUTH COAST— continued. 
 
 93 
 
 expedition in his two small vessels, the Sunshine and the Moonshine. 
 — the one of fifty tons, and the other of thirty-five tons burden, 
 carrying respectively twenty- three and nineteen men. 
 
 A few miles up the Dart another Arctic navigator — Sir Humphrey 
 Gilbert — was born. Here also Sir Walter Raleigh resided ; and from 
 the Dart he led forth those expeditions against the Spaniards, in his 
 
 DARTMOUTH. 
 
 ship the Roebuck, in which the Madi-e de Dios and other argosies 
 laden with treasure, rich spices, and jewels rewarded the valour of 
 his followers. 
 
 The most interesting person connected with Dartmouth of late 
 yeai's is Newcomen, the inventor of the steam engine. He carried on 
 business in the town as an irtnmonger. All honour is due to his 
 memory, although others perfected the work which he commenced. 
 
94 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 Dartmouth contains many picturesque, highly ornamented old 
 houses, although a large number have been pulled down to make 
 room for modern residences. Amongst the most interesting of the 
 former is the curious old Butter Row. Some little way up the 
 
 
 BUTTER ROW, DARTMOUTH. 
 
 harbour, on the west side, is King's Wear, where the Dart Yacht Club 
 have their headquarters. Near the mouth of the harbour is the 
 Britannia school and training ship for Eoyal Naval Cadets. Here 
 they remain until they have attained a sufficient knowledge of 
 navigation and seamanship to become midshipmen, and make them- 
 
THE SOUTH COAST— continued. 
 
 95 
 
 selves really useful. Their regular schooling goes on all the time. 
 Officers in the navy are far more highly educated than they used to 
 be in days of yore, when a knowledge of navigation and seamanship 
 was all that was required. y 
 
 THE KIVER DART. 
 
 Papa knew one of the officers, so we went on board the ship. It^is 
 fitted up with a large school-room, class-rooms, and dormitories. 
 
96 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 She has only the few guns necessary for exercising. Though once a 
 line-of-battle ship — being built of wood— she would be unable to 
 compete with ironclads, and of course her fighting days are over. ^ 
 
 The wind being fair, we stood out of the Dart in the afternoon, and 
 steered for the Start. At the end of the Start is a lofty tower. It 
 was visible at sunset, when the wind fell almost calm. The tide was 
 favourable, however, and we made some way. In a short time a 
 brilliant revolving light flashed across the waters. It can be seen 
 nineteen miles off, the tower being two hundred and four feet above 
 high water. In the tower is a bell, which is rung during fogs, to warn 
 ships from approaching too near. The light is a dioptric or lens-light 
 of the first order. The apparatus consists of a central powerful 
 lamp ; round this is placed an arrangement of glass, so formed as to 
 refract these b)eams into parallel rays in the required directions. 
 
 Lenses were employed in lighthouses at a very early period. 
 When they were first made they were used for burning instruments, 
 by collecting the rays of the sun. It was seen, however, that they 
 would equally collect the rays of a lamp. They have of late years 
 been very greatly improved by a celebrated glass manufacturer. 
 Great indeed has been the improvement in lighthouses. Once upon a 
 time they were simply high towers, which had on their summits open 
 fireplaces, in which either wood or coal fires were burned. They were 
 often unserviceable at the very time their services were most required. 
 During a heavy gale, for instance, when the wind was blowing 
 towards the land, it drove the flames of an open fire away from the 
 direction in which they were most wanted to be seen. Sometimes, in 
 fog or rain, the glare of the fire was visible by refraction in the 
 atmosphere, although the fire itself could not be seen. Such was the 
 tower of the North Foreland. This lighthouse existed in 1636, and 
 merely had a large glass lantern fixed on the top of a timber erection, 
 which, however, was burnt in 1683. Towards the end of the same 
 century a portion of the present structure was raised, having an iron 
 grate on the summit. It being found difficult to keep a proper flame 
 
THE SOUTH COAST— continued. 97 
 
 in windy or rainy weather, about 1782 it was covered in with a roof 
 and large sash windows, and a coal fire was kept alight by means 
 of enormous bellows, which the attendants worked throughout the 
 night. 
 
 This very primitive means of maintaining a light was exchanged in 
 1790 for a lantern, with lamps and other apparatus. The Eddystone 
 lighthouse was from the first illuminated by means of a chandelier, 
 containing twenty-four wax candles, five of which weighed two 
 pounds. The Liverpool lighthouses had oil lamps, with rude reflec- 
 tors. Down to the year 1823 coal fires were used in several light- 
 houses. Really good lights have come into universal use only during 
 the last few years ; and it is said that on the west coast of Sweden 
 a coal fire is still used at an important lighthouse. 
 
 The Argand lamp is generally employed in lighthouses. It was the 
 greatest advance in artificial lighting until the introduction of gas. 
 It was discovered by Monsieur Argand, a citizen of Geneva. He was 
 trying experiments with a common lamp he had invented. A 
 younger brother describes its accidental discovery. He says: 'My 
 brother had long been trying to bring his lamp to perfection. The 
 neck of a broken flask was lying on the chimney-piece. I happened 
 to reach across the table, and to place it over the circular flame of the 
 lamp. Immediately it rose with brilliancy. My brother started from 
 his seat in ecstasy, rushed upon me in a transport of joy, and 
 embraced me with rapture.' Thus was the new form of lamp dis- 
 covered. 
 
 Various forms of cylindrical wick lamps are employed for illu- 
 minating lighthouses. For reflectors the wick is nearly an inch in 
 diameter. For the lens light a more powerful and complicated lamp 
 is used. The oil is made to flow into the burners by various means. . 
 \ The most simple is by placing the reservoir higher than the lamp, the 
 oil thus flowing by its own gravity to the level required. Mineral 
 oil is now generally used, as being superior to rape-seed or sperm oil. 
 Olive oil is used in some foreign lighthouses ; and at the Cape of 
 
 G 
 
98 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND, 
 
 Good Hope oil produced from the tails of Cape sheep is employed. 
 It is said to be far superior to all other oils for its brilliancy in 
 burning - 
 
 Attempts have been made to introduce the limelight, that being 
 of far greater brilliancy than any other. We read of a curious ex- 
 periment connected with it. A limelight was placed on the summit 
 of a hill, called Slievesnaught, in Ireland, which was always en- 
 veloped in haze by day. Between it and the observing station was 
 a church tower, twelve miles distant, and on this station an ordinary 
 reflector was fixed, while the hill itself was seventy miles distant. 
 Notwithstanding the great difference in the distances, the limelight 
 was apparently much nearer and brighter than the light twelve miles 
 off*. 
 
 Great as are the difficulties of keeping up a continuous flame, they 
 have been almost overcome by an arrangement introduced by Mr. 
 Eenton, which preserves the cylinder of lime from cracking. Gas has 
 lately been introduced in the lighthouse at Hartlepool. Hopes were 
 entertained that electric lights might be introduced, but the great 
 difficulty is to maintain an equable force, as the battery gradually 
 declines in power. There are also other difficulties to be mastered. 
 The most successful experiments have been carried on in the South 
 Foreland lighthouse, by an arrangement of powerful magnets. The 
 current thus produced passing through the carbon pillars, produces a 
 splendid light, entirely eclipsing all other modes of illumination. 
 Years ago a limelight was so arranged as to be used on board ship for 
 illuminating objects at a great distance. By its means, an intended 
 attack of torpedo vessels could be detected. It was employed also 
 in the Abyssinian expedition, for illuminating the advance camp 
 when there was a possibility of it being attacked by Theodore's 
 troops. Now, however, electric lights are used on board all the first- 
 class men-of-war, incandescent lamps being fitted for internal use, 
 and arc lights for signalling and searching purposes. 
 
 All this information we obtained while slowly gliding by the 
 
THE SOUTH COAST— continued. 99 
 
 Start. The Start light, from its height and brilliancy, can be seen 
 much further off than the Eddystone light, which we sighted just 
 before morning. A head wind springing up, and the tide being 
 against us, we ran back past Bolt Head into Salcombe Kange. The 
 sun had not risen as we entered the harbour. The scenery of the 
 entrance is wild and romantic. High and rugged rocks appeared 
 above our mast-head. We brought-up on the eastern side of the 
 harbour. As soon as the anchor was down we piped to breakfast. 
 
 Just beneath Bolt Head we observed the ruins of an old castle, once 
 a stronghold of importance, which held out bravely for the Koyalists 
 under the governor. Sir Edward Fortescue. For four months he and 
 his gallant followers withstood the numberless cannon-shot poured in 
 from the heights above, and at length only yielded on honourable 
 terms to the leader of the Parliamentary forces, who allowed them to 
 walk out with their arms and colours flying. 
 
 "^ Uncle Tom and Jack came on board to breakfast, and we spent a 
 jolly morning, in spite of the pouring rain. I could never fancy 
 taking a cruise alone in a yacht, especially without a crew, as two or 
 three gentlemen have done ; but nothing is more pleasant than sailing 
 in company with another yacht, with a merry party on board each 
 vessel, and exchanging visits, sometimes 'mealing' — as Uncle Tom 
 called it — on board the one, sometimes on board the other, as we 
 always did when in harbour. At sea this, of course, could not be 
 done, except in calm weather. Although Salcombe Range is rugged 
 and wild in the extreme at its mouth, there are some beautiful 
 country houses higher up the harbour; one belongs to the Earl of 
 Devon, and another to Lord Kinsale. So genial is the climate, that 
 myrtles, magnolias, oleanders, and aloes grow in profusion, and fill 
 the air with their fragrance. Vines and all sorts of fruit-trees also 
 flourish — the apple-tree especially yielding a rich crop. We agreed 
 that for a winter residence there could not be a more delightful spot 
 in England. 
 
 The following evening, the weather clearing, we made [sail, the 
 
 G Q. 
 
100 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 Dolphin leading. As we stood out, we passed a fine large schooner 
 — a fruit vessel, I believe — which had put in here. Paul Truck 
 hailed her as we passed slowly by, and he found that he knew 
 her master, who said that she had put in to land her owner and 
 his family, and that she was bound up the Straits of Gibraltar. The 
 very next night she was driven on shore near the Lizard — either on 
 the Stags or some other rocks — and was dashed to pieces, all hands 
 perishing. 
 
 The wind, though light, was sufficiently to the southward to enable 
 us to stand for Plymouth ; but we kept close-hauled, that we might 
 have a good ofiing, should the wind shift to the westward, when it 
 would be in our teeth. Darkness was creeping over the face of the 
 water. The Dolphin was about two cables length ahead of us. We 
 had just gone down to tea, and Oliver was pouring out a cup for 
 papa, when we were startled by a loud shout uttered by Truck : 
 
 ' A man overboard from the Dolphin ! ' 
 
 Oliver, in his agitation, let go the teapot, which was capsized. We 
 all rushed on deck, papa leading, and Oliver butting me with his head 
 behind. 
 
 ' Where is he ? ' asked papa, running forward to look out. ' Keep 
 her as she goes,' he shouted. 
 
 The Dolphin was in stays, coming about, an operation she took 
 some time to perform. It was evident we should be up to the spot 
 where the man — whoever he was — had fallen into the water before 
 she could reach it. We peered through the gloom, but could perceive 
 nothing amid the leaden seas flecked over with snowy foam. 
 
 ' Stand by to lower the boat ; trice up the main tack ! ' cried 
 papa. 
 
 ' I see him, sir ! ' cried Ned and Ben, in one voice, pointing to a 
 black spot which appeared now in the hollow of the sea, now with 
 the foam curling round it. 
 
 ' If it's a man, he's swimming well,' cried papa. 
 
 ' I do believe it's Jack ! ' exclaimed Oliver. 
 
THE SOUTH COAST— continued, 101 
 
 ' Haul up the foresail, down with the helm, let fly the jib sheet ! ' 
 shouted papa. 
 
 At that moment a cry reached our ears, ' Help ! help ! ' 
 
 The cutter was now hove to. While papa had been giving his orders 
 he had been throwing oflT his coat and waistcoat. No sooner did he 
 hear Jack's voice than overboard he sprang, striking out towards our 
 cousin, who was on the point of sinking, being seized with cramp. 
 He was a good swimmer, and but for this might have kept up until 
 he had reached the Lively, for the Dolphin was much further oflf from 
 him than we were. We saw papa making his way towards Jack. I 
 felt inclined to jump overboard ; but Truck sang out to Oliver and 
 me to assist in getting the boat in the water, when the two men, 
 Ned and Ben, jumped into her. 
 
 ' Pull away in the wake of the captain,' shouted Truck ; ' he'll hand 
 Master Jack to you when he gets hold of him. Take care you don't 
 capsize the boat. The captain will look after himself ; but listen, and 
 do as he tells you.' 
 
 There was a good deal of sea on, and the boat tossed about 
 fearfully. There seemed a great risk of her bows striking Jack, had 
 the men attempted to pull directly towards him. They soon overtook 
 papa, but wisely kept at an oar's length on one side of him. My 
 heart beat as if it would jump into my throat. It seemed to me that 
 at any moment papa himself might sink. I could barely distinguish 
 Jack's head, and sometimes I thought it was only a lump of sea-weed. 
 He had prudently not attempted to swim, but thrown himself on his 
 back. The Dolphin's boat was by this time in the water, and was 
 also making its way towards the spot ; but papa was very much 
 nearer. I almost shouted with joy when I saw that he had got hold 
 of Jack, and was keeping his head, which I could now more clearly 
 distinguish, above the white foam. 
 
 ' Pull round, lads,' I heard him shout, ' and back in towards me ! ' 
 
 The men obeyed the order. 
 
 ' Now, one of you come aft, and catch hold of the boy.' 
 
102 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 With intense relief we saw Jack hauled on board over the stern ; 
 but papa was still in the water. For a moment I thought of sharks, 
 remembering how often those horrible monsters had carried off people 
 just about to get into a boat. Then I recollected that they were seldom 
 if ever seen so far north. Papa just held on to the stern until Jack had 
 been carried by Ben a little way forward, and then we saw him climb 
 in, Ben just lending him a hand, which was all he required. Doubly 
 thankful we were when we saw him also safe in the stern-sheets. 
 
 ' Praise God ! ' exclaimed old Truck. ' If the captain had gone it 
 would have broken my heart.' 
 
 The boat, instead of returning to us, pulled on to the Dolphin, and 
 there was just light sufficient for us to see Jack lifted on board, both 
 vessels remaining hove-to. Presently the Dolphin's boat came along- 
 side with a message from papa, desiring us to go back in her. We 
 jumped in at once, and were quickly on board. Papa had gone below 
 to change his wet clothes, when we found that Jack had been placed 
 on a mattress on deck, wrapped up in a blanket. Uncle Tom was 
 kneeling by his side, exposing his face and chest to the breeze, while 
 one of the men stood by with a lantern. Jack was as pale as death 
 — indeed, as we watched him with intense grief, he appeared to be 
 dead. 
 
 ' He's got too much water in his throat,' said the captain of the 
 Dolphin ; ' better place him on his face, and let it run out.' 
 
 This was done, with our assistance, and Uncle Tom placed one of 
 Jack's wrists under his forehead ; but still he showed no sign of life. 
 While we were attempting thus to restore him, papa came on deck. 
 He at once placed Jack on his back, and putting a cloak under his 
 shoulders, slightly raised his chest, while he told me to hold his feet 
 covered up in the blanket. He then wiped his mouth and nostrils, 
 and drew his tongue out, keeping it projecting beyond the lips. By 
 slightly raising the lower jaw the tongue was held in the required 
 position by his teeth. He then raised his arms upwards by the sides of 
 his head, and kept them steadily but gently stretched out, moving them 
 
THE SOUTH COAST— continued. 103 
 
 forwards for a few moments. He then turned them down, and 
 pressed them gently and firmly for the same period of time against 
 the sides of the chest. He continued repeating these movements 
 alternately about fifteen times in a minute. By papa's directions, we 
 rubbed both his arms and his legs, from the feet and hands towards 
 the heart ; and another blanket having been heated at the galley, he 
 was wrapped up in it. In the meantime, papa having called for a 
 bucket of cold water, dashed it with considerable force over Jack's 
 face. How thankful we felt when, after this operation had twice 
 been performed, we heard a slight sigh escape our cousin's lips ! 
 
 ' Thank God, all is well ! ' exclaimed papa. ' Cheer up, Tom ; Jack 
 is coming to.' 
 
 Again the patient sighed, and we observed that he was beginning 
 to breathe. Papa placed his hand oil Jack's heart. ' It beats faintly,' 
 he said ; ' but the pulsations are becoming stronger and stronger. 
 We may carry him below now without fear,' he added, in cheerful 
 voice ; ' he will soon come round.' 
 
 Jack now cried out faintly, as if suffering from pain. 
 
 ' That's a good sign,' said papa. 
 
 All this time we had continued rubbing his feet and hands. Papa 
 and Uncle Tom lifted him up, carried him below, nnd placed him 
 in his berth, having complete^ dried his head, and wrapped him in a 
 warm blanket. On this the steward brought some broth, which he 
 had been warming up, and a few teaspoonfuls were poured down 
 Jack's throat. 
 
 Papa said he had adopted Doctor Sylvester's mode of proceeding, 
 which is that advocated by the Royal Humane Society. The 
 advantages of it are that inspiration may be made to precede 
 expiration. The expansion of the throat is artificially ensured. The 
 patient is not likely to be injured by the manipulation, and the 
 contents of the stomach cannot pass into the wind-pipe, while the 
 tongue is prevented from obstructing inspiration. Both sides of the 
 chest are thus equally inflated, and a larger amount of air is inspired 
 
 I 
 
104 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 than by other methods. Of course, where medical men with apparatus 
 are at hand, other plans may be adopted ; but papa said he had seen 
 several persons treated as Jack had been, apparently much farther 
 gone, but who yet had completely recovered. 
 
 We watched over our cousin for some time, when as both Uncle 
 Tom and papa thought he was quite out of danger, we returned on 
 board the cutter. How he had fallen into the sea no one could 
 positively say, but we knew we should hear all about it on the 
 following day. 
 
 The wind had greatly fallen, and the yacht had all this time remained 
 hqve-to. As soon as we had got on board, the boat was hoisted up. 
 Papa shouted, ' Let go the fore-sheet ; ' and the cutter moving through 
 the water, the yacht quickly passed the Dolphin. She, however, 
 immediately followed our example, and together we sailed on towards 
 the brilliant light of the Eddystone. We watched it for some time, 
 and at length turned in ; but before getting into our berths we 
 heartily thanked God that by His great mercy our poor cousin had 
 been delivered from a terrible death. When we went on deck again, 
 at early dawn, the Dolphin was astern of us. We hove to, and 
 allowing her to come up with us, enquired after Jack. 
 
 ' He's going on well, and is fast asleep,' was the answer. We were 
 by this time near enough to the Eddystone lighthouse to distinguish 
 its form and colour. At high water, the rock on which it stands is 
 covered to the depth of fourteen feet, so that it then literally rises 
 out of the sea. Its predecessor was erected by Smeaton in 1759, 
 about fourteen miles south of Plymouth Breakwater; but the rocks 
 on which it was built were gradually undermined by the waves, and 
 it had to be replaced by a new building on a firmer foundation. 
 
 We made but very little way during the night. The sky at this 
 time had assumed a most extraordinary appearance. It appeared to 
 be sprinkled over with flocks of wool of the most brilliant colours — 
 red, yellow, green, pink and gold, indeed, all the hues of the rainbow, 
 with scarcely any blue spaces. 
 
THE SOUTH COAST— continued. 105 
 
 ' What a magnificent day we shall have ! ' I exclaimed. 
 
 ' I'm not so sure of that, sir,' answered Truck. ' If I mistake not, 
 before we get into Plymouth Sound we shall have a sneeze from the 
 south-west. Fortunately we've got a harbour under our lee. We 
 won't rouse up the captain, though, because he is tired after his swim 
 and his anxiety about Master Jack, but I'll take leave to shorten sail 
 in good time.' 
 
 ' Four reefs down in the mainsail, lads,' he sang out. ' Be smart 
 about it. Get out the storm jib. In with the big jib.' 
 
 ' Before many minutes are over the gale will be down upon us ! ' 
 Paul shouted out to the Dolphin, making signs to show what he 
 expected. We saw her immediately afterwards shortening sail. 
 Scarcely had we set the storm jib than the wind struck it, and away 
 we flew over the now fast-rising seas. In a few seconds the wind 
 was howling and shrieking, and the whole ocean was covered with 
 foam. 
 
 A short distance off, on the starboard quarter, was the Dolphin. 
 In an instant, as the squall struck her, she heeled over until the 
 water rushed through the lee scuppers ; but the foresail was speedily 
 brailed up, and under a storm jib and closely-reefed mainsail she 
 staggered on, keeping about the same distance from us as at first. 
 Afar off were numberless vessels standing for the harbour; some 
 perhaps had sailed the previous evening, others were standing up 
 Channel, or had previously been making for Plymouth. We dashed 
 on over the now foaming billows. The number of vessels appeared 
 to increase as they approached either the east or the west end of the 
 breakwater : we kept to the former entrance. Some of the outward- 
 bound vessels ran back into Cawsand Bay, on the west side of the 
 harbour, just abreast of the end of the breakwater on which the 
 lighthouse stands. Every moment the wind increased, until it blew 
 a tremendous gale ; and thankful we were when we had passed the 
 Newstone and Shagstone, two dangerous rocks at the eastern entrance 
 of the Sound, and had got safe inside the breakwater. This is about 
 
106 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 a mile up the Sound, running east and west, the two ends inclining 
 to the northward. 
 
 We passed by so quickly that we had but little time to examine 
 it ; but we could see what a magnificent structure it was, being- 
 composed entirely of huge masses of granite. Papa told us that it 
 was commenced in 1812, 'a few years before he was born.' In the 
 first instance enormous blocks of stone were thrown down, such as 
 the tides could not move, until the foundation was formed in the 
 required shape, and nearly a mile in length. When this artificial reef 
 rose almost on a level with the water, after it had had time to settle, 
 blocks of hewn stone were cemented on to it, so that it now has the 
 appearance of a long broad wall with a lighthouse at the western 
 end. 
 
 It has stood so many severe gales that there is no probability of 
 its giving way, unless some unexpected movement of the ground 
 below should occur. Until the Portland Breakwater was built, that 
 at Plymouth was considered the finest structure of the sort in the 
 world. In those days engineering skill had not advanced as far as 
 it has at present. The stones were conveyed from the quarries in 
 boats, so contrived that they could be dropped through the bottom, 
 over the spot where it was desired to place them. The whole cost 
 of the work was a million and a half of money, although a third less 
 in length than the Portland Breakwater. Just inside this ocean 
 barrier several large ships were at anchor, perfectly secure from the 
 gale raging outside it ; but we continued our course up the Sound, 
 with the tack triced up and the peak dropped, and even then we had 
 as much sail as we could stagger under. We were very glad after 
 rounding the Cobbler Kock to bring up in Catwater, which is the 
 eastern harbour of Plymouth. Passing beneath the citadel, which 
 completely commands the Sound, as soon as we had stowed sails, 
 we went on board the Dolphin. We found our cousin sitting up in 
 bed. 
 
 ' How are you. Jack % ' I asked. 
 
THE SOUTH COAST— continued. 107 
 
 ' Somewhat weak, and very queer/ he answered. ' I want to thank 
 you, Uncle Westerton, for saving me ; for if you hadn't come when 
 you did, I believe that I should have gone to the bottom/ 
 
 ' Don't talk about it, Jack,' said papa ; * you are not the first 
 fellow — I'm thankful to say — I've picked out of the water ; and for 
 your father's sake, as well as your own, we should have been sorry 
 to lose you. Praise God for His mercy that you are still alive, and 
 are able to serve Him in the way He desires ! ' 
 
 ' What did it feel like when you were drowning % ' asked Oliver ; 
 ' I've heard say that the sensation is very pleasant.' 
 
 ' I can't say that I found it so, and I doubt if anybody else does. 
 All I remember is that I felt in a horrible fright, and that the water 
 came rushing into my mouth much faster than I liked. I had a 
 terrible pain in one of my legs, which prevented me from swimming 
 a stroke; then I heard a loud roaring noise, while all seemed con- 
 fusion, except that I felt a most disagreeable choking sensation. I 
 really do not know what else happened ; but I would advise you not 
 to follow my example if you can help it.' 
 
 ' But I say, Jack, how did you manage to tumble into the water ? ' 
 inquired Oliver. 
 
 ' That's a puzzle to me,' answered Jack. ' I believe that I had 
 jumped up on the taffrail when the vessel gave a kick, and over I 
 went. I must have sunk, I think, before I knew where I was ; and 
 when I came to the surface I instinctively struck out towards the 
 Lively, for I could not see the schooner, as my eyes happened to be 
 turned away from her. I should have been alongside you in a few 
 minutes, had not that dreadful cramp come on. Beyond that I really 
 don't know much more.' 
 
 After Jack had had his breakfast he declared that he was well 
 enough to go on shore ; but the rain coming down in torrents we 
 remained on board the Dolphin, and amused ourselves by forming 
 plans for the next day, should it clear up. I should have said that 
 we had brought-up among an enormous number of coasters and small 
 
108 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 trading vessels, as Catwater is the mercantile harbour of Plymouth ; 
 while yachts generally betake themselves to Hamoaze, at the mouth 
 of the Tamar, on the west side of Devonport. 
 
 All day long the rain continued ; but I got on board the cutter, 
 and spent some time in writing up my journal. It was very pro- 
 voking to be kept prisoners ; but such is often the fate of yachtsmen. 
 We might, to be sure, have gone on shore in our waterproofs and 
 south-westers ; but we agreed that there would be no fun in paddling 
 about a strange place after the fashion of young ducks ; so sum- 
 moning all the patience we could muster, we made ourselves as 
 happy as we could on board. We had reason to be thankful that 
 we had got into a snug harbour. Vessels were continually arriving 
 with spars carried away and otherwise damaged, and during the 
 night it blew a perfect hurricane. 
 
 Before the breakwater was built the sea used to come rolling right 
 up the Sound, and vessels have even been wrecked close under 
 Plymouth, and the town itself often suffered. Even as it was, we 
 could not get across to Drake's Island, on which a fort is situated 
 guarding the entrance to the Tamar. In the afternoon of the next 
 day the weather became bright and beautiful, and we walked through 
 Plymouth to Devonport, which contains the dockyard, and is sur- 
 rounded by fortifications. We visited the dockyard, which is very 
 similar to that of Portsmouth, We were much interested in going 
 into the rope manufactories, where ropes and hempen cables are spun 
 in rooms twelve hundred feet long. Several ships were building on 
 the slips, and saw-mills and forges were busily at work. We after- 
 wards went to Stonehouse, where the Royal William Victualling 
 Establishment is situated. It covers fourteen acres ; and here beer 
 is brewed, wheat is ground, biscuits baked, and cattle and pigs are 
 turned into beef and pickled pork. . 
 
 Next day was Sunday, when we went to church. y 
 
 On Monday morning we pulled in the Dolphin's boat across to 
 Mount Edgecumbe, having a good view of the south side of Plymouth 
 
THE SOUTH COAST— continued. 
 
 109 
 
 and the green slopes of the Hoe, which extend down to the water's 
 edge on the west of the citadel. 
 
 From Mount Edgecumbe the noble owner of the estate takes his 
 title. It is indeed a beautiful spot, the hill-side facing the water 
 
 's^^-'^^^^i 
 
 PLYMOUTH SOUND, FROM MOUNT EDGECUMBE. 
 
 covered with trees, and walks cut amid them. From the hills at 
 the north end we enjoyed beautiful views up the Hamoaze, and 
 looked down into Mill Bay, and watched the fierce tide as the ebb 
 made, rushing out of the Tamar, past the Devil's Point, having a 
 good view also over the whole shore, thickly sprinkled with houses 
 and fortifications. 
 
130 
 
 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 The inhabitants of few towns in England have a finer place of 
 recreation than the Hoe affords on a summer's evening, where the 
 people of Plymouth can walk up and down enjoying the view of its 
 picturesque shores, and at the same time getting the sea-breeze, which 
 blows up the Sound. 
 
 MOUNT EDGECUMBE. 
 
 We were just on the point of leaving Mount Edgecumbe when we 
 saw several people ahead of us ; and Oliver, who was in front, turned 
 round and said, ' I do believe there's Dick Pepper ; ' and running on 
 he gave him a slap on the shoulder, when we saw that it was really 
 Dick himself 
 
THE SOUTH COAST— C07itinued. Ill 
 
 Dick stopped till I got up to him. 
 
 ' I am staying with an old uncle and aunt at Plymouth ; but they 
 don't know what to do with me, and, to say the truth, I don't know 
 what to do with myself,' he said. 
 
 ' Wouldn't it be fun if you could come with us % ' exclaimed Oliver. 
 
 ' That it would ! ' answered Dick ; ' and I'm sure Aunt Deborah 
 will be delighted to get rid of me.' 
 
 We introduced him as our schoolfellow to papa, who, guessing 
 what was in our minds, invited him to come and sail with us, as he 
 knew we should like it. 
 
 Dick replied that if his uncle and aunt would let him he would 
 come fast enough ; and as they were strolling on before, we three 
 ran after them. Dick told them of the invitation he had received. 
 I guessed by the faces of the old lady and gentleman that they 
 would not refuse. I was right ; and it was at once settled that Dick 
 should return home and pack up a few traps, and come on board that 
 very evening. 
 
 Dropping a little way behind, we were joined by Jack, when we 
 set up a shout, which somewhat astonished Aunt Deborah and her 
 husband. We saw the latter, who was somewhat deaf, enquiring 
 what the noise was about. When Dick joined them he got a scolding 
 for being so improperly hilarious. 
 
 While he and his relatives returned across the ferry to Stonehouse, 
 we went to see the steam floating bridge, similar to that used 
 between Portsmouth and Gosport. We much wished that we had 
 had time to pull up the Tamar, the scenery of which is highly 
 picturesque. Small steamboats run up it a considerable distance, 
 and carry excursionists. We went some distance up, to see the 
 beautiful iron bridge which spans it, as also to have a look at the 
 Oreston quarries, from which the material for forming the breakwater 
 was principally procured. 
 
 On getting back to Catwater we found Dick and his traps waiting 
 for us, so we quickly transferred him and them on board the Lively ; 
 
 I 
 
112 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 while Oliver took up his quarters, by Uncle Tom's invitation, on 
 board the Dolphin. As vs^e had still daylight, and the tide suited, 
 we got up our anchors and sailed down the Sound, steering for the 
 western entrance, when we saw a white light burst forth from the 
 lighthouse at the end of the breakwater. 
 
 ' Why, I thought it was a red light,' I observed. 
 
 ' So it is when turned seaward ; but by having a white light 
 looking up the harbour, vessels know when they are well inside,' 
 answered papa. 
 
 As we ran out we passed a large fleet of fishing-boats also coming 
 out of Cawsand Bay, which, before the breakwater was built, was 
 the most secure anchorage during south-westerly gales. These boats 
 were engaged in the whiting fishery. The fish are not only sold in 
 Plymouth and the neighbouring towns, but are sent up in large 
 quantities to the London market. 
 
 Returning on board, we stood northward, that we might obtain a 
 view of the coast as we sailed along. Dick and I remained on deck 
 all the morning. At last we sighted Looe, the first town we had 
 seen on the Cornish coast. Looe stands at the mouth of a valley, 
 at the bottom of which runs a stream. It consists of East and West 
 Looe — romantic foreign-looking places. The houses are grouped to- 
 gether irregularly, with whitewashed walls, stairs outside, green 
 roofs and grey gables, with myrtles, geraniums, and other plants of 
 a warm climate flourishing in their midst. West Looe is inhabited 
 chiefly by fishermen, their humble cottages being scattered about 
 without any respect to order. However, we obtained but a distant 
 view of it. 
 
 As the wind freshened up a little we stood on towards Fowey, 
 passing Looe Island and Talland Point. Fowey is a place of far 
 more importance than Looe, although much of its ancient glory has 
 departed. The town rises above the quay, and consists of a number 
 of narrow, crooked streets ; and it has a quiet old market-house, a 
 fine tower, and a building called the Place House. The town owes 
 
THE SOUTH COAST— contimied. 113 
 
 much to a patriotic gentleman, Joseph Treffry, by whose means it 
 has of late years been greatly improved. 
 
 Once upon a time, when Liverpool was a mere fishing village, 
 Fowey sent forth a large fleet to aid King Edward — no less than 
 forty-seven ships, with seven hundred and seventy mariners, swelled 
 the king's fleet. Often, too, the men of Fowey beat back their 
 French invaders ; indeed, the Place House was built as a fortress. 
 
 On going out of Fowey we passed a number of coasters loaded 
 with china clay, which is found in large quantities near this town. 
 Arsenic also is found in many of the Cornish mines. Persons em- 
 ployed in obtaining it suffer greatly from its poisonous fumes. 
 
 The flashing light of St. Anthony's Point burst forth when we were 
 about three miles from the entrance of Falmouth Harbour, and enabled 
 us, with the assistance of the green fixed light on the breakwater, to 
 take up a safe berth inside. We had heard much of the beauty of Fal- 
 mouth, and expected next morning to be delighted with its appearance. 
 
 ' Well, I really think I shall make a very good sailor,' said Dick, 
 as we sat at supper, while the vessel lay at anchor in the calm 
 harbour. ' I feel as well as I ever did in my life.' 
 
 ' You must take care not to pitch head foremost overboard, as you 
 were nearly doing this morning,' observed Jack; 'you might not be 
 as fortunate as I was — to be picked up again.' 
 
 'Why, I forgot that there was the water between you and me; 
 and when you shouted out I was going to run up and shake hands,' 
 was the answer. 
 
 The fact was that Dick, while we were near the Dolphin, was 
 as nearly as possible walking overboard, with the intention of 
 getting on her deck, and would have done so had not Truck 
 hauled him back. Dick had no notion of which was the stem 
 and which the stern of the vessel, or how the wind acted on the 
 sails; nor could he make out why we tacked; and several times 
 he asked how it was that we did not sail directly towards the point 
 to which we wished to go. 
 
114 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 'I say, what do you call that stick in the middle of the boat?' 
 he asked, after he had been on board some hours; 'and that 
 other one running out at one end ; and why has your uncle's 
 vessel got two sticks and you only one ; if one is enough, why should 
 he have two ? ' 
 
 I explained that our vessel was a cutter, and that the Dolphin 
 was a schooner, and that the stick running out at one end was 
 the bowsprit, on which the jib was set to turn the head of the vessel 
 either one way or the other. 
 
 'Nothing like asking questions,' observed papa, when we laughed 
 at Dick. ' Stick to the custom, my boy, and you'll soon know as 
 much as these youngsters. A person who is afraid of asking questions 
 remains in ignorance.' 
 
 As may be supposed, Dick hit his head pretty hard against the 
 beam above him several times before he learned to roll into his berth 
 after the most approved fashion. 
 
 Soon after daybreak we were on deck in our shirts, intending 
 to jump overboard and take a swim. Jack and Oliver made their 
 appearance at the same moment on board the Dolphin, and shouting 
 to us, overboard they went, and came swimming up. I, pulling 
 my shirt over my head, followed their example. Dick, forgetting 
 to pull off his shirt, with wonderful courage — which arose, however, 
 from ignorance — plunged after me, when to our dismay we discovered 
 that he had no notion of swimming. I was already some distance 
 from the side of the vessel. 
 
 Poor Dick began splashing about, and striking out as he had 
 seen me do ; but, beginning to sink, he shouted out, ' Help, help ! ' 
 
 Fortunately, Captain Truck saw him, and hove a grating close to 
 him with a rope attached to it. 
 
 'Hold on to this, young gentleman, until Master Harry comes to 
 help you. Don't be afraid, and you'll be all right.' 
 
 Dick caught hold of the grating, and wisely did as he was advised. 
 I, hearing his cries, had in the meantime turned round, and getting 
 
THE SOUTH COAST— contimied^ 115 
 
 up to him, took a rope which Truck hove to me, and fastened it round 
 his waist. 
 
 ' You are all right now,' 1 said ; ' but before you attempt to do 
 anything else, learn to strike out with your feet with regular strokes. 
 Pull your knees up, and then shove them out horizontally even with 
 the surface of the water. There, that will do capitally ; you see how 
 fast you shove the grating ahead.' 
 
 Truck on this slackened out more rope ; and Dick, delighted, 
 soon carried the rope out as far as it would go. Then, turning 
 the grating round, I made him push it back again towards the 
 vessel. 
 
 ' Now rest a bit — just as I am doing,' I said ; ' don't move, 
 but let your legs and body float up ; just touch the grating with 
 your arms stretched out, and as much of your body as possible 
 under the water. There, you see, you float like a cork. Now you 
 observe that, if you remain perfectly quiet, the water will float 
 your body. All the grating now does is to support your head ; but 
 if you were to turn on your back, and let your head sink down 
 into the water, with only your face above, the water would support 
 your head.' 
 
 Dick did as I suggested, and was quite surprised to find how 
 perfectly he floated. 
 
 'Now, you see, when swimming, you require only the movement 
 of your arms to keep your head above water, although they also assist 
 you to progress and to guide yourself; but the feet make most of the 
 onward movement. Just try without the grating, and the rope will 
 bring you up if you sink.' 
 
 Dick, who was quite rested again, did as I advised, and managed 
 to get from one end of the vessel to the other, although it must 
 be confessed that more water ran down his throat than he found 
 pleasant. I then showed him how he could tread water, by keeping 
 his body perfectly upright with his arms folded ; here was a still 
 greater surprise to him, and he was thus able to keep his chin well out 
 
 H % 
 
116 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 of the water, and sometimes, by striking hard, to raise his shoulders 
 even above the surface. 
 
 ' This is capital ! ' he exclaimed. ' Though I had read about 
 swimming, I had no notion how it was done ; and I could not 
 have supposed it possible that water could float me so easily. I had 
 tried several times in the ponds, and nearly drowned myself.' 
 
 ' Ah, but we have got the salt water of the Atlantic here, which is 
 far more buoyant than the fresh water,' I observed. 
 
 Dick was so delighted that it was with difficulty we could get him 
 to come on board again and dress for breakfast. 
 
 'You'll make a first-rate swimmer in a few days, sir,' said Paul 
 Truck, as he assisted him up the side. ' I'll tell you why — you have 
 no more fear than a Newfoundland dog. The reason people can't 
 swim is that they fancy that they can't ; whereas, the Newfoundland 
 dog knows that he can, and goes in and does it.' 
 
 Having dried myself, I ran down and brought up a clean shirt 
 for Dick, who asked Truck to fasten his up in the rigging. 
 
 'Better souse it out with fresh water first, or you wouldn't find 
 it pleasant to put on again,' answered the captain, laughing; 'the 
 salt would tickle your skin, I've a notion.' 
 
 ' Not if it is dry, surely ? ' asked Dick. 
 
 ' Yes ; you see the salt would remain. Why, you'd have as much 
 salt in that shirt as would serve you for dinner for a week if I was to 
 dry it in the sun without rinsing it out. Haven't you ever seen salt 
 in the holes of the rocks ? ' 
 
 Dick had not, but I very frequently had. 
 
 ' How do you think that salt comes there ? ' asked Truck. 
 
 Dick could not tell. 
 
 'Why, it's just this: the sun draws up the fresh water, and 
 doesn't draw up the salt, but leaves that behind. If it wasn't for 
 that, we should have salt rain ; and a pretty go that would be ; for 
 all the trees, and plants, and grass would be killed, and vessels, when 
 away from land and hard up for water, would not be able to get any." 
 
\ 
 
 THE SOUTH COAST— contimied. 117 
 
 We had been so busy dressing that we had not had time to admire 
 the harbour. We now agreed that it looked a very beautiful spot, 
 with bright green fields and the white houses of the town, with 
 Pendennis Castle on the western point and St. Mawes opposite to it. 
 Facing Falmouth we could see Flushing, and church towers and villas 
 on the shores of the river Fal away to the northward. 
 
 On going on shore, however, the place did not appear quite 
 so attractive, and the streets and alleys had a Wapping look about 
 them, and were redolent of the odours of a seaport. But as we 
 got out of the more commercial part, the town improved greatly. 
 One of the most interesting buildings we visited was that of the 
 Cornwall Sailors' Home, though there were many other fine public 
 buildings. 
 
 Pendennis Castle chiefly occupied our attention. It is of con- 
 siderable size. At one part is a round tower — the most ancient 
 portion of the building — erected in the time of Henry the Eighth. 
 The works extend seaward, so that they guard the entrance to the 
 harbour. We wandered from bastion to bastion, gazing over the 
 ocean two hundred feet below us. The paved platforms, the heavy 
 guns, and the magazines for ammunition showed that the fortress was 
 prepared for an enemy. Should one appear, may its garrison hold 
 out as bravely as did that under the command of old John Arundel, 
 a partisan of the Stuarts, when besieged by the Parliamentary 
 army, until the defenders and their brave captain were starved 
 into submission. 
 
 We walked on along the shore until stopped by the Helford river — 
 really an arm of the sea — which we crossed in a ferry boat. We 
 caught sight, in the far distance to the southward, of the Manacles, 
 a group of isolated rocks, on which more than one stout ship has 
 been knocked to pieces. All along were fine romantic cliffs, the 
 views rewarding us for our exertions. We returned on board soon 
 after sunset, and I employed the rest of the evening in writing up 
 my journal. 
 
CHAPTER y. 
 
 LAND S END. 
 
 FINE, bright morning found us outside the harbour, with 
 the Manacles on our starboard bow, steering for the Lizard, 
 which we hoped to round before noon, so as to reach 
 Penzance that evening. We passed sutiSciently near the 
 Manacles to distinguish their black heads standing with 
 threatening aspect high out of the water. 
 'It was there, sir, a few years ago, a large ship — The John — was 
 lost during thick weather when making for Plymouth, and upwards 
 of one hundred of her passengers and crew perished,* observed Truck, 
 as he pointed out the rocks to us. ' She had no business to be so 
 close in shore, and that is all I can say. It is sad to think how many 
 stout ships have been cast away on the rocks about here. When 
 we get to the Lizard we shall see the Stags.' 
 
 After passing the Lizard we kept the land close on board. As 
 the wind was south-west, we sailed straight for Penzance. We 
 could distinguish high and broken cliffs of a reddish hue extend- 
 ing the whole way to the Lizard ; when they disappeared we could 
 perceive a low rocky point running out towards the Stags. On 
 the summit of the cliffs which form the Lizard Head stand two 
 lighthouses, two hundred and twenty-three feet apart. A covered 
 
LAND'S END. 119 
 
 passage runs between them, in the centre of which are the residence 
 and offices attached to the towers, so that the keepers can communi- 
 cate without being exposed to the fierce gales of winter. Each of 
 the white towers is sixty- one feet high, and contains a brilliant fixed 
 catoptric or reflecting light. 
 
 The Lizard is the most southerly point of England, and although 
 it is exposed to heavy gales the climate is very healthy. Just as we 
 were about to round the Stags the wind shifted, and compelled us to 
 stand away to the southward, by doing which we hoped, aided by the 
 next ebb, to be able to steer direct for Penzance. 
 
 Had we gone about at that time, we should have run the risk 
 of being driven on the Stags, both wind and tide setting in that 
 direction. The w^ind became very light, and we made but slow 
 progress. 
 
 Our hopes of reaching Penzance gradually decreased as the day 
 wore on, and yet, while the flood was making, it would have been 
 folly to stand towards the shore. At length papa calculated that the 
 tide had turned. We were on the point of putting the vessel's head 
 to the northward when a thick mist, driving up from the chops of the 
 Channel, completely enveloped us, while the wind rapidly increased, 
 as of course did the sea. 
 
 Dick, who had been walking about w^ith his hands in his pockets, 
 now suddenly found himself jerked here and there, and was compelled 
 .to pull them out to catch hold of anything which came in his way ; 
 bometimes a stanchion, sometimes the side of the vessel, now and then 
 Truck, or me, or the man at the helm. 
 
 'Take care, my lad, you don't go overboard,' sang out papa. 'You'd 
 better turn in and keep out of harm's way.' 
 
 Dick, however, was too proud to do this. ' No, thank you ; I'd 
 rather stay on deck/ he answered, ' I'll pull and haul, and help the 
 jailors in any way you like.' 
 
 I won't ask you to do that; only sit down on the skylight, 
 id should a sea strike us hold on with your eyelids.' 
 
120 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 Dick did as he was advised; at first he sat up, and looked 
 very bold ; but gradually he became paler and paler, and yellower 
 and yellower^ while his lip curled, and a groan every now and then 
 escaped his breast. 
 
 'Hulloa! what's become of the Dolphin?' I exclaimed, looking 
 round, and not seeing her anywhere. 
 
 ' She was away to leeward of us when I went down to tea,' observed 
 Truck, who had just then returned on deck, ' Where did you last see 
 her % ' he asked of the man at the helm. 
 
 'Maybe a couple of hundred fathoms astern, sir; but I don't think 
 more,' was the answer. 
 
 We hailed the Dolphin, but there was no reply. 
 ' She was further off than you supposed,' said papa, who had 
 himself gone below for a few minutes. 
 
 We could not understand why they did not answer our hail, for 
 they must, we thought, have heard us. As it was important to keep 
 as close to the wind as possible, that we might be sure of weathering 
 the Stags, we could not run down to speak the Dolphin. Papa, 
 however, felt sure that Uncle Tom would also keep as close to the 
 wind as he could, with the same object in view. 
 
 We had by this time gone about, and were heading up towards the 
 port we wished to reach. Papa judged that we were already near 
 Mount's Bay. Dick had thrown himself down on deck, completely 
 overcome. I was standing by him, urging him to get up and go 
 below, when what was my dismay to see towering above us the dark 
 hull and wide-spreading canvas of a large ship. 
 
 ' Steady ! keep her as she goes ! ' papa shouted out. 
 Had we attempted to keep away, the stranger must have struck us 
 on our quarter. Had we luffed up, she would have run completely 
 over us, and we should have been carried to the bottom. I fully 
 expected even then that such would be the case. 
 
 ' Run forward, my lads ! ' he shouted out to Dick and me and the 
 crew, while he himself seized the helm, making the helmsman throw 
 
I 
 
 LAND'S END. 121 
 
 himself flat on his back. All was the work of a moment. In 
 another instant I heard a crashing and rending. Our boat was 
 knocked to fragments, and the davits carried away. I saw the 
 bowsprit sweeping across our deck, tearing the mainsail as it did so, 
 and carrying away back- stays and other rigging. 
 
 Dick was shouting out, ' What has happened ? What are we going 
 to dor 
 
 ' I hope to get rid of this craft ! ' cried Captain Truck, who having 
 seized an axe, followed by the rest of the crew, was cutting away at 
 the stranger's bowsprit rigging. 
 
 Happily, our gaff stood, although our topmast was carried away 
 by her foreyard-arm, and came down with a crash on deck, papa 
 narrowly escaping being struck. The next instant we were free. 
 
 ' You'll be on shore in a quarter of an hour if you steer your 
 present course ! ' shouted papa. ' Steer to the south-east.' 
 
 ' Ay, ay ! Thank you/ came from the ship ; ' sorry to have run you 
 down, but you've returned good for evil.' 
 
 ' I pray that I may always do so ! ' answered papa ; and the next 
 instant the stranger was lost to sight in the thick mist. 
 
 We immediately hove to, to get in the wreck of the topmast, and 
 to repair damages. A piece of planking was nailed over the side 
 which had been stove in, and the fragments of the boat were stowed 
 on deck. 
 
 'I hope the Dolphin will escape that fellow,' observed Captain 
 Truck. ' If he doesn't alter his course he may run her down, and 
 then, maybe, wreck himself on the Stags.' 
 
 ' I am thankful to believe he has altered his course,' observed papa. 
 ' I heard the order given ; but I should like to fall in with the 
 Dolphin^, for we must run back to Falmouth and repair damages. 
 She, probably, not knowing what has happened to us, will stand on to 
 Penzance. We can reach Falmouth, however, much sooner than we 
 can get there, and have the work done more rapidly.' 
 
 We accordingly kept away, and in a short time the Lizard Lights 
 
122 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 appeared through the mist at such a height that papa knew we were 
 clear of the Stags. After this we steered for St. Anthony's Light, 
 and soon came in sight of a green fixed light on the Prince of Wales' 
 Breakwater, passing which before midnight we brought] up in safety 
 in the harbour. 
 
 ' We have good reason to be thankful at having escaped the danger 
 to which we were exposed this evening,' observed papa, as we were 
 taking some supper in the cabin before turning in. ' It is one to 
 which yachts as well as other vessels must always be exposed, 
 especially at the present time, when so many steamers are running 
 up and down. I should have been happier had the Dolphin been 
 with us ; but I hope we ma}^ find her the day after to-morroW;, as she 
 is sure to wait at Penzance for us.' 
 
 The first thing in the morning we went on shore to get carpenters 
 off to repair the bulwarks and make a new topmast. Papa found a 
 boat exactly the size we required, and purchased her, for it would 
 have taken too much time to repair the damaged one. 
 
 The carpenters made quick work. By daybreak the next morning, 
 having all again ataut, we sailed for Penzance. W^hen we were well 
 round the Lizard, we fell in with a fleet of boats which had come off 
 shore. On looking in the direction towards which they were pulling, 
 we saw the water curiously agitated. 
 
 ' They are after a school of pilchards,' said Captain Truck. ' See 
 how the water glitters with them ; if you look through your glasses 
 at the top of the cliffs, you will see a number of people with boughs 
 in their hands waving them. They have been on the look-out to give 
 notice as soon as they caught sight of the school. When they see the 
 first, they sing out " Heva ; " but what it means I don't know, except 
 to give notice to the men in the boats.' 
 
 Meantime, the rowers were straining their muscular arms to the 
 utmost, until they reached the school, when they immediately united 
 the nets they had on board ; and thus starting from the same point, 
 quickly began to cast them out, until they formed a circle not less 
 
I 
 
 LAND'S END. 123 
 
 than two thousand feet in circumference, in the midst of which we 
 could see the shining fish leaping and struggling in a mass together. 
 
 Truck told us that the seine was about twelve fathoms deep, that it 
 thus formed a wall, the upper part being supported by corks, and the 
 lower weighted by lead. 
 
 While the circle was being formed, a third boat was employed in 
 driving the fish toward the centre of the enclosure, as there was a 
 risk that they might otherwise escape before it was completed. The 
 wind was very lio:ht, and the sea calm, so that we could watch the 
 operation at our leisure. The other boats, now fastened with long 
 ropes to the seine, began slowly dragging it towards the shore, the 
 fish, meantime, mostly keeping in its centre. Now and then a few 
 would make their escape by leaping over it, but the greater number 
 did not appear to have the sense to do this. 
 
 We followed them, as we knew where there was water for the nets 
 there must be water for us. At length, we saw them approach a 
 sandy beach. Here the rowers ceased exerting themselves ; but they 
 did not attempt to drag the net on to the beach, for it would 
 inevitably have been broken through by the vast quantity of fish 
 inside. ' Several smaller boats had put oflT, the men in them carrying- 
 small nets and baskets. They now commenced what is called 
 ' tucking.' 
 
 The small nets were thrown out, each forming a circle, and the fish 
 caught in them were hauled on board in the ordinary way. The 
 other boats ladled out the pilchards with baskets. Each boat as she 
 was laden pulled back to the shore by a passage left open for her to 
 pass through, which was immediately closed again. 
 
 A number of women and lads, with creels on their backs, were 
 collected on the beach to carry the fish up to the curing-house, 
 situated some little way oflf on the top of the downs. 
 
 A considerable time was occupied in emptying the seine, for though 
 no fish appeared on the surface of the water, the tucking nets brought 
 up a considerable quantity which were swimming lower down. The 
 
124 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND, 
 
 whole of the vast net was then dragged up on the beach, when the 
 fish which had been caught in the meshes, or had before escaped 
 capture, were secured. 
 
 As the calm continued, papa took us on shore in the boat to visit 
 the curing-house ; and we heard a great deal more about the pilchard 
 fishery from the men on the beach. We were surprised to find that 
 the value of the fish caught in that single seine was estimated at fully 
 six hundred pounds. Sometimes a thousand pounds' worth of fish 
 is caught in one seine. If the fishermen were always thus successful 
 they would soon grow rich ; but they often meet with misadventures. 
 On one occasion a large net full of fish was caught by the tide before 
 it could be dragged on shore, and carried away against the rocks, 
 when not only did the fish get free, but the net itself was almost 
 destroyed. At another time, when a large school had been encircled, 
 the fish making a dash together at one point, capsized the net and got 
 clear over the top, not a quarter of the number remaining. Just 
 before this, a seine had been securely moored, when a ground swell 
 setting in from the westward before the fish could be taken out, the 
 net was rolled over and over, and every fish escaped, while the net 
 was utterly destroyed. 
 
 The fishing boats we met with in Mount's Bay are not only 
 very picturesque, with their brown-tanned sails, but are amongst the 
 finest to be found anywhere ; and they often ride out gales in which 
 larger vessels might founder. Their plan is, when caught in a heavy sea, 
 to form a sort of breakwater of planks and spars, under the lee of 
 which they ride with sufficient scope of cable. We were told of one, 
 with a crew of five men, which performed a journey to Australia, having 
 touched at the Cape of Good Hope for water and fresh provisions. 
 Since then, several small craft, with only a couple of men on board, 
 have crossed to America. On one occasion, a man, with his wife, 
 came from the United States to England ; but they both suffered 
 severely from the privations to which they were exposed. 
 
 In the spring fishery the nets are shot near shore, off' some sandy 
 
LAND'S END. 125 
 
 inlet, at sunset ; and it is curious to note that the fish thus meshed 
 are all on the inside of the net, but when they are meshed in the 
 morning they are found on the opposite side. This proves that they 
 come into shallow water during daylight, and go off again into deep 
 water at night. 
 
 The people in this part of the country were at one time greatly 
 addicted to smuggling, and many of their vessels were commanded by 
 daring fellows, on whose heads a price had been set. Among the most 
 desperate of these outlaws was Captain Wellard, who commanded the 
 Happy-go-Lucky, carrying fourteen guns. For years he had carried 
 on his trade with impunity, and it was said he had vowed that he 
 would never be caught. When, however, Samuel Pellew, a brother of 
 Lord Exmouth, became collector of customs at Falmouth, he de- 
 termined to put a stop to this illicit traffic. Wellard had the 
 audacity to issue notices, promising a reward to any one who would 
 kill the collector. Captain PeUew was not to be daunted, and sent 
 out his cruisers in every direction to look for the smugglers. At 
 length two of the king's vessels, early one morning, found the Happy- 
 go-Lucky at anchor, not far from St. Michael's Mount. On seeing the 
 royal cruisers, the outlaws cut their cables, and making sail, stood 
 out to sea. Undaunted by the vastly superior odds against them, the 
 daring smugglers stood to their guns, and fought with a bravery 
 worthy of a better cause. For a whole hour — entertaining to the last 
 the hope of escape — they maintained the unequal contest. They knew, 
 indeed, that if taken alive, they would to a certainty be hanged. 
 At last Wellard fell, mortally wounded ; but he held out as long as 
 life lasted. His mate was then killed, and twelve of his crew wounded, 
 when the survivors were compelled to surrender, and the smuggling 
 craft was carried in triumph into Falmouth Harbour. Here the 
 prisoners were shut up in Pendennis Castle ; but their friends outside 
 were not idle. A large body of armed smugglers soon collected, and 
 breaking into the castle, rescued the imprisoned outlaws, and at the 
 same time carried off some of the wounded who were lodged in the 
 
]26 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 town. One man was too much hurt to be moved, so he was left 
 behind, and eventually sent to London, tried, and — having been cap- 
 tured red-handed — was hanged. This happened only at the end of 
 the last century. 
 
 We walked as far as the curious hollow in the eai*th called ' The 
 Devil's Frying-pan.' It is like a vast crater, two acres in extent, two 
 hundred feet deep, and converging to an oriiice at the bottom, some 
 sixty feet in diameter. Kound the upper edge we observed furze, 
 gorse^ and a variety of grasses growing in great profusion, but below 
 was the bare rock. Carefully creeping down, we noticed through the 
 hole the shine of the water in the cavern beneath. We were won- 
 dering how this curious aperture could have been formed, when papa 
 explained that the ground was once level, but that there had been a 
 cavern below it, which was gradually increased by the roof crumbling 
 away, and the debris being washed out by the sea, until the rock 
 became too thin to bear the superincumbent weight of earth, when 
 the centre gave way, and sinking down, the -surrounding earth 
 followed, until it was formed into its present shape. The sea con- 
 tinually rushing in, again cleared out the cavern. As we were anxious 
 to look up it, we hurried back to the boat, and the tide being suitable, 
 we pulled in, and were able to look up through the hole down which 
 we had before gazed. 
 
 We afterwards visited two other extraordinary caverns, known as 
 'Dolor Hugo,' and ' Raven's Hugo,' up one of which we pulled for a con- 
 siderable distance. Grand and picturesque in the extreme were the cliffs 
 above us, which in every variety of shape extend along the whole of 
 the Lizard peninsula.'^^ . 
 
 The curing establishment we found was much more extensive than 
 we had expected it to be. It consists of a circular court, called a 
 cellar, inside which the fish are piled up on the slabs running round 
 the court. First, a layer of salt is spread, then a layer of pilchards, 
 and so on — layers of pilchards and salt alternating until a vast 
 mound is raised. Below the slabs are gutters whi'ch convey the 
 
LAND'S END. 127 
 
 brine and oil oozing out of the fish into a large pit in the centre of the 
 court. Upwards of three hundred-weight of salt are used for each 
 hogshead. After the pilchards have remained about a month, they 
 are cleansed from the salt, and packed in hogsheads, each of which 
 contains two thousand four hundred fish, weighing four hundred and 
 seventy-six pounds. Pilchards when thus cured are called -fair 
 maids ' — a corruption oifiiniado — the Spanish for smoked. Originally 
 they were cured by smoking, but salt preserves them much better. 
 
 The fish are not always caught near the shore, for the school 
 frequently keep out at sea, where the fishermen go in search of them. 
 For this purpose tw^o descriptions of boats are employed ; the largest 
 measures about thirty tons, the other is much smaller. The fishermen 
 use a number of nets — about twenty in all — called a set, which are then 
 joined together ; each is about forty feet deep, and one hundred and 
 seventy feet long. When united they form a wall three quarters of a 
 mile in length, though sometimes they are much longer. The fish are 
 not caught by being encii'cled, but by running their heads through 
 the meshes, where they are held by the gills, which open in the 
 water like the barbs of an arrow, and consequently cannot be with- 
 drawn ; their bodies being larger than the meshes, they thus remain 
 hanging, unable to extricate themselves. 
 
 At one end of this wall of nets a boat is secured, and di*ifts with the 
 tide. Here she remains until it is supposed that all the fish coming 
 in that direction have either passed by or been caught. The fisher- 
 men then begin hauling in the net. The operation of hauling in nearly 
 a mile of net, perhaps full of fish, is no easy task, especially when 
 there is a ' loppy ' sea and the night is dark. This is, however, the 
 most easy way of catching pilchards, which can be pursued at nearly 
 all times of the year, for the fish swim about in small schools away 
 from the shore, from May until winter is well advanced, when the 
 water becoming cool, they return westwards to a warmer climate in 
 the depths of the Atlantic. The fishermen told us that the most 
 propitious time for fishing is when there is a loppy sea during a thick 
 
128 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 fog at night, as the pilchards do not then perceive the nets in their 
 way, and swimming against them, are caught. When the water is 
 transparent, the fish, perceiving the luminous meshes, swim aside and 
 escape. This appearance is called brimming. As it rarely occurs 
 during twilight, the fishermen choose that time for shooting their nets, 
 and wait until dawn before hauling them again into their boats. 
 
 We could learn nothing about the natural history of pilchards ; 
 the fishermen did not appear to trouble their heads on the matter. 
 Some said that they went away to far-off* regions during February, 
 March, and April, to deposit their spawn ; others, that they went in 
 search of food ; but where they went to, none of them could venture 
 to suggest. 
 
 As we wished to get to Penzance before dark, should a breeze 
 spring up, we returned on board. Sailing along very close to 
 the coast, we came off" Helston, situated on the inner side of a curious 
 lagoon, separated from the sea by a narrow spit of sand. Occasionally, 
 in rainy seasons, when the streams which run into the lagoon cause 
 the water to rise to an inconvenient height, so as to flood the shores, a 
 narrow channel is cut in the spit ; and the water rushing through it 
 at tremendous speed forms a broad and deep passage, until the lake 
 speedily sinks to its usual level. 
 
 The breeze now freshening, we ran across the bay past Marazion, 
 until we sighted Mousehole, on the western side. Near it was a 
 large cavern in the side of the cliff*, from which the village is said by 
 some to take its name. Mousehole, though a small place, contained 
 some gallant men, who, in the time of Queen Elizabeth, defended it 
 bravely, under Sir Francis Godolphin, against an attack of four 
 hundred Spaniards, who came in four galleys, and landing, did 
 considerable damage to the neighbouring places. In its harbour we 
 now saw a large fleet of boats, engaged in the pilchard and mackerel 
 fishery. Not far off*, on the summit of a cliff*, we observed two 
 batteries, with guns mounted, to keep any enemy who might venture 
 near at bay. 
 
LAND'S END. 129 
 
 Mackerel are caught much in the same manner as pilchards ; but 
 as they will not keep, and are not so suitable for pickling, they are 
 sent off immediately to market. 
 
 All along this coast are caverns, which we much wished to explore. 
 In this neighbourhood also, up a valley which extends from a prett}^ 
 little place called Lamorna Cove, is a place where a large amount of 
 the finest granite is quarried. 
 
 Tacking when off Mousehole, we stood directly for Penzance. 
 Approaching the north shore, we had a fine view of St. Michael's 
 Mount, rising out of the blue water washing its base, crowned by its 
 far-famed and ancient monastery. 
 
 Sailing on, we passed the white lighthouse at the end of the pier, 
 and dropped our anchor in the sheltered harbour, where, to our great 
 delight, we found the Dolphin. 
 
 Uncle Tom, and Jack, and Oliver at once came on board, very 
 thankful to find that we had escaped all dangers. Uncle Tom said 
 that he was on the point of sailing to look for us. We had just time 
 to see the outline of the tower, its domed hall rising in its midst, with 
 pretty villas surrounded by woods beyond, before the fast-gathering 
 darkness shut them out of our view, while the twinkling lights from 
 the old town and a number of stone-vessels and other coasters and 
 fishing-boats cast their glimmer on the surface of the water. 
 
 Penzance is a pretty and pictui^esque place, and is now an im- 
 portant fishing-town. It is also celebrated as being the birthplace of 
 Sir Humphrey Davy. It has greatly improved since the last century, 
 when it is said that the people refused to allow a mail coach road to 
 be extended to their town, that they possessed but one carpet and one 
 cart, and had not heard of silver forks ; while the Sherborne Mercury 
 was the only newspaper which circulated among them. When a 
 stranger approached, the boys in the town invariably armed them- 
 selves with stones to fling at him, shouting out, ' Whar do you come 
 from ? Be off, now ! ' John Wesley did much to introduce the pure 
 gospel among the inhabitants ; and we saw several fine churches, in 
 
 I 
 
130 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND JiNGLAND. 
 
 addition to a number of houses in which the floors were undoubtedly 
 carpeted. 
 
 Next morning we put ofi* in our two boats to visit St. Michael's 
 Mount, on which we landed on a stone pier, with a few houses near 
 it. As we gazed upwards at the pile of buildings which crowns the 
 summit of the mount, we expected to find much interest in exploring 
 its ancient halls and passages. We were somewhat disappointed 
 
 ST. MICHAEL S MOUNT, CORNWALL. 
 
 when, having made our way up to the top, we found that it had been 
 so greatly renovated as to be deprived of much of its antique look. 
 But it is a grand old pile, — the tower, which rises in the centre, and is 
 the most ancient portion, having been built in the fifteenth century. 
 Although used as a monastery, it was strongly fortified ; and guns 
 round the walls still remain, notwithstanding that they would be of 
 little use in the present day. We saw, just above the edge of a cliff, 
 a curious and ancient cross, richly carved. The monks' refectory was, 
 after the Reformation, turned into a banqueting hall ; and the cornice 
 
LAND'S END. 131 
 
 which runs round it represents hunting scenes of boars, stags, wolves, 
 and bulls. Obtaining a light, we descended by a flight of stairs, 
 through a small door in the side of the wall, down to a low, dark 
 vault, in w^hich it was said the bones of a man were discovered when 
 the vault was found, some years ago. Whether he had been shut up 
 there by the monks, or had been a prisoner of war, it was difficult 
 to determine. The vault was evidently used for the purpose of 
 concealing the treasure of the monastery. 
 
 We afterwards climbed up by a narrow spiral staircase to the top 
 of the tower, from whence we had a fine view over the whole of the 
 bay and the surrounding shores. On the summit are the remnants of 
 a lantern which was formerly used as a beacon for the benefit of 
 mariners entering the bay. This monastic castle, for such it should 
 be called, has frequently been besieged. On the last occasion it was 
 held by Sir Francis Eassett, for Charles the First, when it was 
 besieged by the Parliamentary forces ; but he was at last compelled to 
 capitulate, though as a reward for his bravery he and his followers 
 were allowed to retire to the Scilly Islands. Altogether, we agreed 
 that it was one of the most interesting spots we had hitherto visited 
 during our voyage. 
 
 As we were anxious to see the Land's End, and could not approach 
 the point in the yachts without risk, we determined to visit the 
 famous promontory by land. Engaging a carriage, we set oflT, making 
 a circuit to see several curiosities on our way. First we stopped at a 
 cave, apparently part of a fortification. Near it are two upright 
 granite rocks, fifty yards apart, said to form the head and foot-stones 
 of a Cornish giant. 
 
 ' He must have been a tall fellow ! ' exclaimed Oliver, as he paced 
 the distance between the two stones. The site is called the Giant's 
 Grave ; and a countryman who met us declared that ' Once upon a 
 time, two giants fought hei'e, — for I don't know how many days, — 
 until one had his skull knocked in by a club formed out of an 
 enormous oak.' 
 
 I 2 
 
132 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 Another legend assigns the name of ' The Pipers ' to them, because 
 not far off is a circle of nineteen stones, said to be the petrified bodies 
 of a number of damsels who spent the Sabbath in dancing instead of 
 going to church. These stones were therefore called the Dancing Stones, 
 or the ' Merry Maidens.' Some time ago a farmer, to whom the field 
 on which they stand belongs, wishing to get rid of them, commenced 
 operations by harnessing a yoke of oxen to one of the damsels ; but 
 he was warned to desist, in consequence of one of the animals falling 
 down dead. Since then they have remained unmolested, except by 
 the hammers of amateur geologists. 
 
 Farther on we reached a fine headland called Castle Treryn, an 
 ancient entrenchment having occupied the whole area. On the 
 summit stands the famous Logan rocking-stone, which is said to weigh 
 eighty tons. Putting our shoulders under it, by some exertion we 
 made it rock or move. Once upon a time a Lieutenant Goldsmith 
 of the Royal Navy — a nephew of the author of the Vicar of Wake- 
 field — happening to land here, took it into his head to try to dislodge 
 the stone ; and, somewhat to his dismay, probably, he succeeded in 
 doing so completely. Over it fell, but did not go rattling down the 
 cliifs, as I had heard asserted, for it would then have inevitably been 
 broken to pieces. Still, as the stone w^as on the ground, and could no 
 longer rock, the people in the neighbourhood were highly incensed 
 against the lieutenant, especially as visitors were not likely to come 
 as heretofore to the spot. They accordingly memorialized the 
 Admiralty, complaining of what had happened, and Lieutenant 
 Goldsmith was ordered to replace it. He thereupon erected over it " 
 some vast shears, and by means of tackles ingeniously contrived, lifted 
 back the stone on to the pivot on which it had before rested. He, 
 however, found it impossible to poise it as nicely as before, and 
 consequently it is necessary to exert more strength to make it move 
 than was required before it had been tumbled over. To make some 
 amends to the people, the gallant lieutenant replaced another stone of 
 a similar character which had fallen from its position. 
 
LAND'S END. 
 
 133 
 
 We passed numerous very small cottages built with enormous stones. 
 They have diminutive windows, which will not open — this style of 
 architecture being necessary to resist cold and the fierce gales which 
 blow across the narrow peninsula. As we proceeded, trees grew 
 
 FIRST AND LAST HOUSE, LAND S END. 
 
 scarcer and scarcer. At last we came to a tavern with a sign-board, 
 on the east side of which was painted ' The last refreshment house in 
 England ; ' and on the other, facing the Atlantic, ' The first refresh- 
 ment house in England.' 
 
 Among the many pretty coves we saw was one called Vellan Dreath, 
 or the Mill in the Sand ; but not a vestige of the mill remains. Once 
 upon a time it was inhabited by a bold miller and his stout son. One 
 morning, as he was looking seawards, just as he was about to turn on 
 
134 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 the water to move his mill, he observed above the sea-mists the masts 
 of a tall ship. What object she had in coming so near the coast he 
 could not divine ; but it was as well to be cautious, lest she should 
 prove an enemy. Going down to the edge of the water, he listened, 
 when he heard the sound of oars^ indicating the approach of a boat, 
 and voices which sounded strange to his ears. Calling to his son, he 
 summoned him back into the mill, the door of which he closed. A hole 
 formed for lifting the latch enabled him to look out, when he saw a 
 party of Spaniards with long guns coming towards the mill. On this, 
 running the muzzle of his piece through the hole, he ordered the 
 enemy to keep off; but as they — regardless of his warning — still came 
 on, he fired, and knocked one of them over. After he had fired, the 
 Dons retired to a distance ; but it was pretty evident that they 
 intended to attack the mill. On this, being certain that the small 
 garrison could not hold out, and seeing the enemy again approaching, 
 he set fire to a rick of furze, and while the wind blew the smoke in 
 the faces of the Spaniards, he and his son, each taking a sack of flour 
 on their shoulders, issued out through a back door and made their way 
 up the hill. They had got some distance up the steep ascent before 
 they were discovered by the Spaniards, who then began firing at 
 them. The gallant millers made their escape, but the old man received 
 a wound of which he ultimately died. The son declared that his sack, 
 from the number of bullets in it, was far heavier than when he set 
 out. 
 
 Near it is Sennen Cove, where there is a fishing village and a 
 Coastguard station. Some way off the shore, rising from amid the 
 foaming waves, is a high rock, denominated ' The Irish Lady,' from 
 the peculiarity of its form, which is that of a female figure, with a 
 long robe, advancing into the sea. We were told that many years ago 
 an Irish vessel was driven on the rocks ; but that one female alone 
 was seen clinging to the wreck until the waves washed her away, and 
 that it is her figure which now appears still surrounded by the foam- 
 ing billows. 
 
LAND'S END. 135 
 
 ' I wonder she hasn't got tired of standing out there all by herself! ' 
 exclaimed Dick. 
 
 Another rock in the same neighbourhood, far out in the sea, is 
 called ' The Armed Knight.' It is a magnificent pile, two hundred 
 feet in height. The summit, from the point we saw it^ assumes the 
 profile of a man's head, while the regular way in which the blocks of 
 granite join each other has much the appearance of armour. As 
 Dick observed, he must have been related to the giant whose grave 
 we had visited. 
 
 Later in the day we reached what we were assured was the Land's 
 End, although other rocks appeared to project as far westward into 
 the ocean. It was a grand scene. In all directions were headlands, 
 crowned by what appeared to be ruined castles and towers, rocks 
 scattered around, piled up into a variety of fantastic shapes ; while 
 afar off we could distinguish the faint outline of the Scilly Islands. 
 Imagination might picture them as some fairy land, likely at any 
 moment to vanish, though we had little doubt that they would 
 remain to let us pay them a visit. A few hundred yards off is a 
 headland called ' Doctor Johnson's Head,' because the rocks at the 
 extremity present somewhat the appearance of a human face with 
 massive features, like those of the great lexicographer. The point 
 is surmounted by an oval boulder, which is so easily poised on 
 one point that it rocks far more easily than the better known Logan 
 Rock. 
 
 Land^s End itself consists of a mass of granite which extends in 
 a lofty ridge far into the sea, the summit crowned by rocks which 
 have the appearance of some vast castle. Indeed, so curiously shaped 
 are the rocks in this neighbourhood, that they have generally an 
 artificial appearance. 
 
 Many years ago, a party of officers had come to Land's End on a 
 visit of inspection. Two of them proposed riding down the slope 
 towards the extreme point, which has perpendicular precipices on 
 both sides. A third officer — Captain, afterwards General, Arbuthnot 
 
136 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 — dismounted, and led his horse after his companions, considering 
 that the place was too dangerous to ride down. After enjoying 
 the view for some time, the party proposed returning, when Captain 
 Arbuthnot, believing that there would be no danger in riding up, 
 mounted to follow his companions. Scarcely, however, was he in 
 his saddle, than his horse, a spirited animal, became restive, and 
 began to kick and plunge, inclining to the precipice on the right 
 side. In vain its rider tried to show the animal her danger ; to his 
 horror, he found that her feet were close to the precipice. He had 
 just time to throw himself off, and clear his feet from the stirrups, 
 when over she went down the cliff, and was dashed to pieces, leaving 
 him on the slippery sward close to the edge of the precipice. The 
 spot where the accident occurred is still shown. 
 
 Two miles off Land's End, on a mass of rocks which rise some 
 seventy feet above the surface at low water, stands the Longships 
 Lighthouse, the summit of which is fifty-six feet above the rock. 
 The tower is divided into three stories. In the lower is kept provisions, 
 with water and coal; the second is a cooking-room and oil-store: 
 while the third is a sleeping-room. The lantern consists of a brilliant 
 catoptric fixed light, produced by nineteen Argand lamps. It was 
 built in 1793 ^y ^ -^^- Smith. Before the granite blocks of which itj 
 is composed were brought to the rock, they were hewn out and pul 
 together at Sennen Cove. The stones are dovetailed one into th( 
 other, and are secured by oak trennels strongly cemented. Oftei 
 when a storm is raging, the waves beat completely over the structure 
 indeed, when any wind is blowing, it is surrounded by masses of 
 foam. Four men belong to the lighthouse, three always remain in it,^ 
 and one goes on leave every twenty-eight days, when the weather 
 permits ; but this, during the winter season, is very often impossible ; 
 and sometimes for weeks together the man on shore cannot get off. 
 
 During a storm, some years ago, so furious were the waves, that 
 the lantern was broken in, and the keepers fully believed that the 
 whole structure would be washed away. We heard of an inspector 
 
LAND S END. 
 
 137 
 
 who had visited the rock during fine weather, and who had begun to 
 find great fault with the large stock of provisions kept in the store- 
 house. Before the cutter which brought him could return, a heavy 
 
 LONGSHIPS LIGHTHOUSE. 
 
 gale sprang up, and he himself was kept a prisoner for nine weeks, 
 after which the lighthouse-keepers heard no more complaints as to 
 the quantity of food kept in store. 
 
138 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 The bright light, which burst forth from the top of the white tower, 
 warned us to beat a retreat 
 
 Not far from Land's End we found another inn, which looked much 
 out of place in that wild region. Dick declared that it should be 
 called ' The firster and laster inn in England,' it having been built 
 some time after the one we had previously passed. As it was too 
 late to return to Penzance that evening, we took advantage of it, and 
 put up there for the night, that we might visit some mines and other 
 interesting spots in the neighbourhood. 
 
 The first thing in the morning we set oft to visit the Botallack 
 mine, the machinery of which we could see perched among crags 
 that looked almost inaccessible. We had not time to go into the 
 mine, which is carried far under the ocean. In some places there 
 is not more than six or eight feet between the roof of the galleries and 
 the water. Once the sea broke into it ; but the hole was plugged, and 
 the water pumped out. On another occaston, a party of miners 
 discovered a magnificent piece of ore little more than three feet below 
 the ocean. The treasure tempted them to risk their lives to obtain it. 
 They cut it out, and successfully filled up the hole. It is said that 
 so terrific is the noise during heavy weather, when the waves dash in 
 on the shore, and roll the pebbles backwards and forwards, that even 
 the bold miners are compelled to rush out, unable to endure the 
 uproar. The scene was most extraordinary. Vast pumps appeared 
 amid the cliflfs, unceasingly drawing up water, which rushed in a red 
 torrent into the sea. Steam and smoke were spitting out in all 
 directions ; and men, women, and boys were employed in sorting 
 the ore as the kib})le brought it to the surface. This was only 
 one of many similar mines along the coast. Having satisfied our 
 curiosity, we drove back to Penzance ; and at once repaired on board 
 the yachts, as papa and Uncle Tom were unwilling to lose more of 
 the fine weather. 
 
 Without a moment's delay, the anchors were got up, and we made 
 sail out of Mount's Bay. 7 
 
CHAPTER VL 
 
 A SHIPWKECK. 
 
 N passing Rundlestone, a hidden rock upwards of a mile from 
 the southern shore of the Land's End peninsula, we came in 
 sight of the Wolf Rock, about ten miles off the coast. It was 
 one of the greatest dangers in the English Channel, for the 
 beacon placed on it was not visible at night or during thick 
 weather. Attempts were made to fix bells on the rock, 
 which might be rung by the waves dashing against them ; but the 
 first gale quickly carried away the well-intentioned contrivance. 
 Now, however, a lighthouse has been erected of great strength and 
 massiveness, to endure the fierce battering it must encounter from the 
 angry billows.. The wind shifting against us, we had a good view 
 of the Wolf Rock, and afterwards of the Longships Lighthouse, the 
 white tow^er of which, rising above its black base, can be Seen afar off". 
 It was with difficulty that we could distinguish Land's End from the 
 neighbouring headlands. Cape Cornw^all, to the northward, apparently 
 approaching fu;"ther into the ocean. 
 
 As we looked at that fearful Wolf Rock, we thought of the number 
 of vessels, out of their reckoning, homeward-bound, or coming round 
 from the North Sea, intending to proceed up the Irish Channel, which 
 must have run against it in days gone by. But now the red and 
 
142 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 white 'flashes' which follow each other at half-minute intervals all 
 through the night, enable mariners to steer clear of the danger. 
 
 Papa remarked : ' I wish that every Christian man would remember 
 that he is bound to be a lighthouse, and to warn his fellows of the 
 peril into which they are running. How many human beings would 
 thus be saved from shipwreck, if all thus understood their duty and 
 acted accordingly! Remember the text — "Let your light so shine 
 before men, that they may see your good works, and glorify your 
 Father which is in heaven." ' 
 
 Papa told us it was the opinion of geologists that the surrounding 
 rocks, as well as the Scilly Isles, were once connected with England. 
 Indeed, of that there can be no doubt. Tradition declares that 
 articles have been fished up proving that cities once stood on spots 
 over which the tides now ebb and flow ; but then tradition is the 
 most uncertain of all uncertain things. Although an iron kettle 
 may have been fished up from the bottom of the sea, it might only 
 show that it had been thrown overboard, or washed out of a sunken 
 vessel. 
 
 As we had determined not to be defeated, we continued beating 
 backwards and forwards until we saw the coast of Cornwall, and 
 the bright beams of St. Agnes^ Lighthouse appeared on our port bow ; 
 while those from the light-vessel moored off" the Seven Stones were 
 seen on the other. 
 
 We hailed the Dolphin, which passed us on the opposite tack ; and 
 papa agreed to lead in 
 
 ' The sooner we are in the harbour the better,' he observed ; 
 'I don't quite like the look of the weather.' 
 
 Clouds had, indeed, been thickly gathering in the south-west ; and 
 the stars, which had hitherto shone brightly, were totally obscured. 
 The wind also, which had been steady, now began to blow in strong 
 squalls, compelling us to shorten sail. First, two reefs were taken 
 down in the mainsail ; it was then closely reefed, while the foresail 
 was hauled down, and the storm jib set. Still, it was as much as 
 
A SHIPWRECK. 143 
 
 the cutter could do to look up to it. Heavy seas now began to 
 roll in from the Atlantic, tumbling the cutter about. Now she rose 
 to the summit of a foam-crested wave, now she sank down into the 
 hollow. 
 
 ' Will she ever come up again ? ' exclaimed Dick, who was clinging 
 on to the companion hatch. • Oh, dear — oh, dear ! I thought the 
 sea was always going to remain as smooth as it has been since we 
 sailed.' 
 
 Presently, up we rose again, and Dick drew a long breath. Papa, 
 however, advised him to go below. 
 
 ' We will look after the craft in the meantime, my boy,' he said. 
 ' There is nothing to fear, though it is possible that one of these seas 
 may break on board, and, if you are not on the look-out, may carry 
 you away.' 
 
 A flash of lightning which now burst forth from a dark cloud, 
 accompanied by a heavy squall, causing the cutter to heel over until 
 her lee bulwarks were almost under water, revealed Dick's terrified 
 countenance. As may be supposed, he clung on the harder to the 
 companion hatch ; and papa had to repeat his advice and help him 
 down the ladder. 
 
 ' You'd better go too, Harry,' he said. ' I can't answer for a 
 sea not coming on board ; and it might tear even you from your 
 hold. Those who remain on deck will secure themselves with 
 lashings ; and as the craft is as light as a cork, we shall weather 
 out the gale, even should it come on to blow twice as hard as it now 
 does.' 
 
 I begged to be allowed to remain. 
 
 ' Well, it will be but a summer gale. You may stay on deck ; but 
 here, make yourself fast with this rope ; ' and papa secured one round 
 my body, which he fastened to the companion hatch. 
 
 He now gave the word to set the trysail ; and the mainsail being 
 stowed, it was hoisted in its stead. Still we had as much sail as the 
 cutter could carry. The night had become very dark, except when 
 
144 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 the flashes of lightning dashed from the black clouds. Papa had 
 resolved to heave the vessel to, when we caught sight of a white sail 
 a short distance ahead of us. 
 
 ' That must be the schooner,' shouted Truck ; ' she is taking a wise 
 course, and is intending to run under Cape Cornwall, or maybe to get 
 into St. Ives Bay, in case the gale should continue.' 
 
 ' We may as well do the same,' observed papa ; and the helm being 
 put up, away we ran before the wind. 
 
 Though the cutter behaved very well, still there was a chance of 
 our being pooped. A strong current was setting us in the direction 
 of the Longships light, which now appeared broad on the starboard 
 bow. We ran on, following, as we supposed, the Dolphin ; but she 
 was going faster than we were, and we soon lost sight of her. We 
 knew our exact position, for, although we had got beyond the gleam 
 of St. Agnes' Lighthouse, we could still see on our port-bow the two 
 lights on board the light- vessel off the Seven Stones. I own I wished 
 that we were safe back in port, though papa appeared so cool that I 
 could not suppose there was any real danger ; still, as the seas came 
 rolling up on either quarter, high above our deck, it seemed impossible 
 that the vessel could escape being swamped. 
 
 At last papa peremptorily ordered me to go below, and coming to 
 where I was standing, lifted up the hatch and literally pushed me 
 down, closing it again over me. I groped my way into the cabin, 
 where I found Dick holding on to one of the sofas. The cabin lampj 
 had not been lighted, so that we were in perfect darkness. 
 
 * Oh ! where are we ? Where are we going ? What's about to] 
 happen?' he exclaimed, in a weak voice, which I could barely hear] 
 amid the uproar caused by the seas dashing against the vessel's sides! 
 and deck, the creaking of the bulk-heads, the whistling of the wind,] 
 and other sounds. 
 
 ' Papa says there is no danger ; so you need not be alarmed, Dick,'] 
 I observed. At the same time I confess that I felt far from comfort- 
 able myself. Poor Dick was dreadfully sick. I had to assist him aal 
 
A SHIPWRECK. 145 
 
 best I could ; but I need not enter into particulars. . His sickness 
 overcame his terror. Every now and then, however, he cried out, 
 ' Oh, I wish I was on shore ! couldn't your papa land me % If he 
 cannot, please ask him to throw me overboard. Oh, how miserable 
 I am ! Oh dear, oh dear ! ' and then for certain reasons he could not 
 utter a word. 
 
 Having to attend to him made me think perhaps less of our situa- 
 tion ; but I know that I was not at all happy. All sorts of dreadful 
 thoughts came into my mind. Every instant I expected to hear a 
 tremendous sea come rushing over our deck, and perhaps to find that 
 papa or some of the men had been washed away. I was most anxious 
 about papa. If he was lost, I believed that the vessel would be lost 
 too ; but then I remembered what a good sailor he was ; and as he had 
 been to sea all his life, he was sure to manage the vessel properly; 
 and, as he had often said, she was such a tight little sea-boat she 
 would go through anything. Still, we were in a part of the ocean 
 where the tide runs with great force, and when meeting the wind a 
 very awkward sea is beaten up. This made the cutter tumble about 
 in a way I had never known her do before. Everything in the cabin 
 had been securely lashed except a few books and charts. First one 
 came flying out as the vessel rolled over, and hit poor Dick on the 
 head. 
 
 ' What a shame of you to be heaving books at me, Harry ! ' he cried 
 out. 
 
 I assured him that I was innocent of anything of the sort ; and 
 presently another flew out, and nearly knocked me over. I tried to 
 reach the books, to secure the remainder; but the whole lot came 
 tumbling out, and sent me sprawling on the cabin~floor. I picked 
 myself up, and crawled back to assist Dick, who just then greatly 
 required my support. 
 
 I cannot describe more of that fearful night. Finding that Dick 
 was tolerably quiet, advising him to hold fast to the sofa, I lay down 
 at the opposite end, where I clung on like grim death and, in spite 
 
 K 
 
146 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 of the tossing and tumbling the vessel was undergoing, I at length fell 
 asleep. I cannot say I was very fast asleep, for I was conscious all 
 the time that something very unpleasant was taking place. 
 
 Occasionally I fancied that I was being tossed in a blanket by my 
 schoolfellows, who were jeering round me as I entreated to be let 
 down ; then that a wild bull was throwing me up in the air, and was 
 about to catch me on his horns. Then that I was on a raft danced up 
 and down by the foaming waters. Now, that I was on deck, and was 
 pitched overboard, and left to struggle alone amid the raging seas. 
 My voice — as I shouted out for help — awoke me ; and to my infinite 
 satisfaction I found that the vessel was much steadier than she 
 had hitherto been. In a short time daylight gleamed through the 
 bull's eyes on deck, and getting up, I made my way to the companion 
 hatch. Just before I reached it, it was lifted up, and papa put his 
 head down. 
 
 ' All right, my lads,' he said ; ' we are under the lee of the land, and 
 the wind has greatly moderated. In a short time, if it continues to 
 he fine, we shall be able to haul up and beat back to Scilly. How is 
 Dickr 
 
 ' He has been very ill ; but he is now fast asleep ; and it would be 
 a pity to awaken him,' I answered as I got up on deck. 
 
 I looked rounds and could see the land on the starboard side bear- 
 ing south and east. The Longships Lighthouse was no longer in view. 
 I could make out a cape, which papa said was Cape Cornwall, to the 
 southward. I looked out for the Dolphin, but she was nowhere to be 
 seen. 
 
 * I am rather puzzled about her,' said papa ; ' she could scarcely 
 have run us out of sight. Perhaps the vessel we saw last night was 
 a stranger bound up the Bristol Channel ; still, she was closer in shore 
 than was advisable. Possibly the Dolphin remained hove-to, or if 
 not, perhaps she bore up before we did, and is already safe at anchor 
 in St. Ives Bay. We must make the best of our way there. Hand 
 me the glass.' 
 
 i 
 
A SHIPWRECK. 147 
 
 I took the telescope from the bracket on which it hung inside the 
 companion hatch, and gave it to him. He looked earnestly for a 
 minute towards some high rocks which were at some distance from 
 the land. 
 
 ' I feared so,' he observed ; ' there's a vessel on the rocks, with her 
 masts gone ; but she's much too high for the Dolphin, or I should have 
 supposed it was that. We will stand in closer and have a look at 
 her ; we shall find less sea there, and the wind has gone down so much 
 and the weather is so evidently improving, that we shall run no 
 unnecessary danger. What do you think. Truck 1 ' 
 
 Papa had handed the glass to Truck, who was looking through it. 
 
 ' If anybody is left alive, we may have a chance of taking them 
 off,' answered Truck. 'As the wreck lies, she is not likely to be seen 
 from the shore, and the people may perish before they can receive 
 assistance.' 
 
 As soon as it was settled that we should do so, the trysail was 
 lowered, and the mainsail, with a couple of reefs down, was set, with 
 a bigger jib and foresail. We now stood in towards the rocks. As 
 we drew nearer, we saw that the wreck was that of a large vessel, 
 and that she so lay as to be partially sheltered from the heavier seas, 
 which must have been raging when she struck. The depth of water, 
 however, would prevent us anchoring. Papa proposed to heave the 
 cutter to while the boat pulled in under the lee side of the rock, 
 whence he hoped to be able to communicate by means of lines with 
 the people on board, should any still remain alive. 
 
 As we drew still nearer, I took the glass, and turning it towards the 
 wreck, I could distinguish a number of people on the fore part, which 
 was the least battered, from having been more protected than the 
 stern. I spied out a man who had climbed to the upper part of the 
 bulwarks, and was waving a handkerchief or towel. 
 
 ' She went on shore at high water, and the tide left her where she 
 is. When it returns it will wellnigh cover her; and as those poor 
 people will be washed off, there is no time to be lost,' observed Truck. 
 
 K 2 
 
148 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 Papa agreed with him. We had a long way to beat back to where 
 the wreck w^as lying. Those on board probably knew their danger. 
 How anxiously must they have looked out for our coming ! 
 
 It w^as a question whether we could get near the vessel. Papa 
 ordered all the spare rope we possessed to be coiled away in the boat, 
 and he had one of our round life-buoys, slung by four ropes, fastened 
 to a block — the largest we had on board. This formed a cradle, by 
 which, if necessary, we could haul the people from the wreck to the 
 boat, could we once get close enough to pass a rope on board. 
 
 At length, getting sufficiently near to leeward of the rock, we hove 
 to, when, greatly to my satisfaction, papa allowed me to go and steer, 
 while he, with two hands, went in the boat, leaving Truck and Dick 
 to manage the vessel. We first pulled round to where the wreck lay; 
 but papa was soon convinced that we could not approach her on the 
 weather side w^ithout great risk of being swamped. Papa hailed, and 
 made signs that we were going round on the lee side of the rock ; we 
 there found a little cove, or bay, into which we could pull and remain 
 without risk by securing the boat with a grapnel. 
 
 Carrying the line and the cradle, we made our way over the rock 
 until we got abreast of where the vessel lay. The distance was con- 
 siderable, and the water whirled and surged round and round in a 
 way whicn would make swimming difficult; still I had often swum 
 much further. 
 
 'Let me carry a line,' I said to papa. 'I think I can do it, if no one 
 on board will undertake to swim to the rock.' 
 
 We shouted to the people, who, strange to say, did not hear us ; nor 
 had they seen us come over the rock, for they had all been looking 
 seaward. Two or three of the men at length appeared on the side 
 nearest us ; but w^hen we called on them to swim on shore, they shook 
 their heads, evidently not liking to make the attempt. The tide was 
 now flowing fast, and their position was every instant becoming more 
 perilous. It, however, made the passage less dangerous, as even in a 
 few minutes the water became smoother than it had hitherto been. 
 
A SHIPWRECK, 149 
 
 The people on board threw an oar^, with a line fastened to it, into 
 the water ; but it was carried sometimes on one side, sometimes on the 
 other, and did not approach the rock. 
 
 'I am sure I can do it, papa,' I said, at length. 'Just fasten a line 
 round me, and I shall be able to get hold of that oar. You can soon 
 haul me back.' 
 
 Papa no longer refused my request, and having stripped, and 
 fastened a rope round my waist, I plunged in, and struggled hard to 
 make way through the hissing water. Sometimes I found myself 
 carried onwards towards the stern of the vessel, but another sea 
 brought me back again ; and in a few minutes, greatly to my satis- 
 faction^ I clutched hold of the oar. when, securing the end of the rope 
 which held me round it, I sung out to papa and the men to haul away. 
 In a short time I was brought back close to the rock. My chief 
 danger was in landing, as the sea at times beat violently against it ; 
 but papa, quickly seizing me, hauled me up. 
 
 ' You have acted bravely, Harry,' he said. ' Now put on your clothes, 
 and we shall soon have a communication with the vessel.' 
 
 While I was dressing, the rope with the cradle was hauled up to the 
 side of the vessel, and secured to a stanchion ; when the crew, getting 
 up a stouter warp, shouted out to us to haul it in, they having secured 
 the cradle to it. We thus had a safe communication established with 
 the wreck, and a stout line to draw the cradle backwards and forwards. 
 
 Greatly to our surprise, a female was the first person we drew 
 ashore ; she burst into tears as we lifted her out of the cradle. 
 Another and another followed ; two had infants in their arms ; and 
 then came two little boys secured to the cradle. Three men followed, 
 each with a child. 
 
 ' Have all the women and children landed 1 ' asked papa. 
 
 ' All who have escaped/ was the answer. ' Several were washed 
 away with the master and two mates.' 
 
 Six more men now came, the sole survivors of the crew. 
 
 ' Are all hands out of the ship 1 ' asked papa. 
 
150 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 ' Every soul, sir,' answered one of the men. 
 
 There was no time to make inquiries as to how the vessel was 
 wrecked. We heard that she was a homeward-bound barque from the 
 United States, and that the passengers on board were returning to see 
 their friends. We hurried over to the leeside of the rock, and at once 
 embarked the two women with the infant, who seemed to be totally 
 exhausted. 
 
 As soon as we got alongside, we lifted them on board, where papa 
 and I remained, he sending the boat back with our two men. Truck 
 had lighted the galley fire, and we soon had some hot broth for the 
 poor creatures, who, having taken off their wet clothes, got into our 
 beds. Papa then looked out all the blankets, and we made up as 
 many beds as we could on the sofa and cabin deck. 
 
 By this time the boat had returned with the remaining women and 
 children. She made no less than seven trips before all were brought 
 oft'; and, as may be supposed, our little vessel was pretty well crowded. 
 Even the men were in a greatly exhausted state, and could not do 
 much for themselves. Papa, however, seemed to think and act for 
 everybody. 
 
 As soon as all were on board, we hoisted in the boat, and the wind 
 being fair, having shaken out the reefs in the mainsail, we steered for 
 St. Ives. Dick, who was not fit for much when we first left the vessel, 
 had now recovered, and assisted in getting off the wet clothes from our 
 young passengers, and in carrying round food. 
 
 The cabin presented a curious appearance, with the people stowed 
 as thickly as herrings in a cask, all wrapped up in blankets and pea- 
 coats. Fortunately, the water was smooth under the lee of the land ; 
 but the number of people on board brought the vessel much below her 
 usual bearings. 
 
 ' I am thankful we have not a long voyage to make, or we should 
 soon be short of provisions,' said papa, as we got out tin after tin of 
 soup and meat. 
 
 The soft bread and fresh beef we had taken on board at Penzance 
 
A SHIPWRECK. 151 
 
 were soon consumed by the women and children, who speedily rallied 
 from their exhaustion. 
 
 The wind, however, fell very light, and there appeared to be a 
 prospect of our not being able to get in that night. 
 
 On inquiry, papa found that the master and first mate of the wrecked 
 ship had been tipsy for some days, and had quan'elled desperately 
 with each other, and the second mate, interfering, had been nearly 
 killed. They had got completely out of their course, and none of them 
 knew where they were. They had been bound for the Thames. The 
 men said that when they saw the Lougships they fancied that it was 
 the Eddystone, and that when they struck they supposed that they 
 were not far off Plymouth Breakwater, though they were wondering 
 why they did not see the light. 
 
 ' It is one of the many sad examples we have had of the effects of 
 drinking,' observed papa. ' If I had to make a voj^age, I should choose 
 a temperance vessel. Though a master may appear sober enough in 
 port under the eyes of his owners, unless he is a temperate man, one 
 can never tell w^hat he may do at sea.' 
 
 On further inquiries we found that nearly half the crew were as 
 tipsy as their officers, and that they, with the cabin passengers who 
 had remained aft, had been washed away. The people saved were 
 steerage passengers, with the exception of one little boy, whose parents 
 and friends had perished. However, the satisfaction of having been 
 the means of saving the lives of these poor people was to us very 
 great. We were of course greatly interested in the boy, Nat Harvey, 
 who was about six years old. Poor little fellow, he had been so 
 frightened that he was not fully aware of what had occurred, and did 
 not appear fully to realise his loss. He seemed to think that his papa 
 and mamma, and his Aunt Fanny and brother and sister, had gone off 
 in a boat, and that he should see them again before long. He kept 
 continually asking why they were not with us. When he heard that we 
 were going to St. Ives, he said that he hoped we should find them 
 there. One of the women, with a kind heart, had taken him under 
 
152 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND, 
 
 her charge, and she sat on the cabin floor holding him in her arms 
 with his head resting on her lap, every now and then speaking words 
 of comfort, and endeavouring to get him to go to sleep. Papa inquired 
 from the passengers and crew if they knew anything of his family, or 
 where they were going. No one could say what part of the States 
 Mr. and Mrs. Harvey^ with three children and a young lady, who was 
 sister either to Mr. or Mrs. Harvey — these were their names — had 
 come from. 
 
 'We can't turn the poor child adrift among strangers,' observed 
 papa. ' We must take him with us, and try to find out his friends.' 
 
 ' Oh pray do ! ' Dick and I exclaimed. ' I'll look after him, and 
 keep him out of mischief/ added Dick. 
 
 At last papa agreed that the best thing he could do for the child was 
 to keep him on board, unless some kind person of influence at St. Ives 
 would take charge of him, and endeavour to find out his friends. 
 
 When speaking of- the way the wreck occurred, papa said he was 
 not surprised, as he had known an instance of the master of a vessel 
 who with his mate had got drunk, and who had managed to take his 
 vessel to the south of Jersey, while all the time he fancied that he was 
 among the Scilly Islands. 
 
 The wind had fallen, and we feared that a calm would come on and 
 keep us all nighty which would have been a great trial to our poor 
 passengers. It was therefore with much satisfaction that, the wind 
 holding fair, we came in sight of the peninsula on which part of 
 St. Ives is situated, the remainder being on the mainland on the south 
 side of St. Ives Bay. 
 
 The water was smooth, the sky bright, and as papa looked at the 
 town he exclaimed — ' Why, I could almost fancy myself among the 
 Greek islands, so exactly does the place, in its form and picturesque 
 beauty, remind me of a Greek village."* 
 
 We stood on until, running under a battery which defends the town 
 on the sea side, we anchored off a pier. The view was indeed highly 
 picturesque. The town has an ancient appearance, the houses being 
 
 I 
 
A SHIPWRECK, 153 
 
 built without any regard to order, many of them looking as if destined 
 ere long to tumble down. Then our eyes wandered round the deep 
 bay, on the surrounding broken ground, and the commanding cliffs, 
 lighted up by the rays of the setting sun, which cast a dark shadow 
 over the town itself on the western side. 
 
 Papa, hastening on shore, immediately applied to the authorities, 
 who received the shipwrecked crew. The poor people expressed their 
 gratitude for the service we had rendered them; and papa, to assist 
 them still further, headed a subscription which was raised in the town 
 for their relief. 
 
 We were very thankful when we got them all on shore. We looked 
 out on entering the bay for the Dolphin; but among the various 
 vessels which had brought up there, she was not to be seen ; and on 
 inquiring on shore we could gain no tidings of her. Papa now thought, 
 or hoped, as he had at first supposed, that she had got safely into 
 St. Mary's. 
 
 Of course our cabins had not been improved by being occupied by 
 so many passengers. We therefore slept on shore, that our bedclothes 
 might be washed and the cabin cleaned ; and we had also to replenish 
 our stock of provisions, which had been almost exhausted. Papa's 
 first care was to arrange an outfit for little Nat, as he had only the 
 garments he wore. We soon had him rigged out in a regular sailor's 
 suit, with a piece of crape round his arm, for we could find no black 
 clothes ready. He frequently asked for his papa and mamma, as well 
 as for his Aunt Fanny. 
 
 'You must not expect to see them, my boy,' answered papa; 'but 
 Ave will take care of you ; and Harry here will give you your lessons, 
 as I dare say you do not wish to be idle.' 
 
 ' Oh yes, I like lessons. Aunt Fanny used to teach me,' answered 
 Nat ; ' but if she doesn't come back soon I should like to learn of 
 Harry.' 
 
 I gladly promised to be his tutor while he remained on board, and 
 felt not a little proud of the position. I at times fancied that he had 
 
154 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 a suspicion of what had happened to his friends. The first time we 
 were alone together he looked up into my face, while the tears sprang 
 into his eyes, as he said, ' Do you know, Harry, that I am afraid that 
 the sea washed papa and mamma and Aunt Fanny and dear Reuben 
 and Mary away ? I don't like to ask, because I am afraid of anybody 
 telling me that I shall never see them again.' 
 
 I had not the heart to say that his suspicions were correct, so I at 
 once got out a book and said, ' Come, Nat, you shall read to me, then 
 I will read to you, and then we will talk about what we have read.' 
 I did the same whenever he again mentioned the subject. 
 
 St. Ives itself was soon seen. There is a church standing so close 
 to the sea, that when there is a strong wind it is almost covered with 
 spray. Most of the inhabitants are engaged in the pilchard and 
 herring fishery. %^ 
 
 We made an excursion along the coast to visit the ruins of the 
 church of Perranzabuloe^ supposed to be the most ancient in Britain. 
 It had for centuries been covered up by the sand. We had left Nat 
 under the charge of the landlady, and engaged a boat to carry us 
 round to visit these interesting ruins. After a long pull we landed 
 up a little creek, near which stand two rocks, known as 'The Old 
 Man and his Wife.' Near at hand was a small fishing- village, in the 
 neighbourhood of which we visited an ancient amphitheatre, still 
 wonderfully perfect. We here obtained a guide to conduct us to the 
 church. It must be understood that the whole shore is covered with 
 fine sand, which is moved in a wonderful manner by northerly winds. 
 It has gradually swept over the country, destroying vegetation and 
 covering up buildings as effectually as has been done by ashes from 
 burning mountains. The progress of the sand is sometimes gradual 
 and almost imperceptible ; at other times, in the course of a gale, 
 whole villages have been overwhelmed, allowing the inhabitants 
 scarcely time to escape. Such was the case with this ancient church 
 and the surrounding habitations. So completely had the sand swept 
 over it, that it had quite disappeared ; and it was only, after the lapse 
 
A SHIPWRECK. 
 
 00 
 
 of centuries, discovered about forty years ago, though a tradition 
 existed in the neighbourhood that a church had once stood there. It 
 was discovered by a Mr. Mitchell, who, undeterred by difficulties, 
 
 exposing 
 
 succeeded in removing a mass of sand and 
 
 the building 
 
 ^ _- <ii$>i»',-. 
 
 KCl^s or PLKKANZ\BrLor: church. 
 
 which had so long been covered up. The masonry is rude, but the 
 walls are solid and complete. The interior was perfectly free from 
 the modern accompaniments of Roman Catholic places of worship. 
 There was no roodloft, no confessional, no pictures of the Virgin and 
 saints, nothing to indicate the unscriptural adoration of the wafer, or 
 masses for the dead. The most diliofent search was made for beads 
 
156 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 and pyxes, censers and crucifixes ; not a fragment of either could be 
 discovered. At the eastern end we saw a plain, unornamental chancel ; 
 in the nave are stone seats attached to the walls. 
 
 Near the church were discovered three skeletons, one of gigantic 
 dimensions, the second of moderate size, and the third apparently that 
 of a female ; and the wind blowing off the sand, the ground around 
 was found covered with human bones. 
 
 We were deeply interested with our visit to this ancient church, 
 which tends to prove that our ancestors worshipped God in simplicity 
 and truth, and that they knew nothing of the forms and ceremonies 
 of Rome. 
 
 With regard to these sand-dunes we heard a curious circumstance, 
 that even a narrow stream will stop the advance of the sand, which 
 will accumulate on its banks, but has not the power to cross to the 
 opposite side. 
 
 On returning on board, we found that our stock of provisions had 
 arrived, that our blankets were dried, and the cabin cleaned out. 
 We therefore immediately got under weigh, and stood out for the 
 bay. 
 
 ' What ! ' exclaimed Dick, ' is this the St. Ives I've heard of all my 
 life ? ' and he repeated — 
 
 * As I was going to St. Ives 
 I met a man with seven wives; 
 Seven wives Lad seven sacks, 
 Seven sacks had seven cats, 
 Seven- cats had seven kits, — 
 Kits, cats, sacks, and wives, 
 How many were going to St. Ives ? ' 
 
 Papa laughed, and said he believed that the honour was also claimed 
 by a little town in Huntingdonshire of the same name. ' The two,' he 
 said, ' may fight it out. It is not very important.' 
 
 The wind now blew from the northward, and in a short time we 
 opened the Longships, bearing due south-west. It had hitherto been 
 
A SHIPWRECK. 157 
 
 hidden by the land, so that we knew perfectly well where we were. 
 We then kept away until we came in sight of the two lights of the 
 Seven Stones Lightship, until we brought them on our starboard 
 beam, when we were within the radius of St. Agnes Lighthouse just 
 before daybreak. 
 
 We were hoping to get in or off St. Mar^^'s in the morniug, when it 
 fell calm ; and there we lay, with our sails flapping idly, and rolling 
 in the swell of the Atlantic, which came in from the southward. We 
 could see through our glasses the Longships Lighthouse on one side 
 a4d the light-vessel on the other, while the Scilly Islands rose blue 
 and indistinct out of the ocean. One tide carried us to the north- 
 ward ; but in the next we regained our lost ground. It was, however, 
 very tantalising, as we were anxious to ascertain what had become 
 of the Dolphin. 
 
 Though papa always hoped for the best, he could not help acknow- 
 ledging that he feared that she might have met with some accident. 
 At length a breeze sprang up, but it was against us ; still, that was 
 better than a calm, as we could gain ground by tacking. Dick and 
 Nat asked more than once why we were sailing away from the land 
 when we wanted to get there. 
 
 At last we came in sight of a lofty tower on the top of a hill in 
 St. Martin's Island, with the long low outline of St. Mary's beyond. 
 Still, we had several tacks more to make before we gained the entrance 
 to Crow Sound, between St. Mary's and St. Martin's. By this time 
 it was dark. A bright look-out was kept for rocks and shoals in the 
 channel. Suddenly rounding a point, the light from St. Agnes shone 
 brilliantly down on us, and further to our right we saw the little 
 twinkling lights from the windows of the houses in Hugh Town, the 
 capital of the Scilly Islands. 
 
 Having come safely to an anchor among several other vessels, we 
 shouted out, ' Dolphin, ahoy ! "* hoping that she was among them^ 
 though in the dark night we could not distinguish her. We had 
 shouted out several times, and papa was on the point of putting oft' in 
 
158 
 
 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 the boat to make inquiries on shore, when a hail came down from the 
 
 other side of the harbour, ' Is that the Lively % ' 
 ' Ay — ay ! ' we answered. ' Is that the Dolphin ? ' 
 * Ay — ay ! ' w^as the reply. ' I'll be aboard you presently.' 
 
 HUGH TOWN, ST. MARY S, SCILLY. 
 
 In a short time we heard the splash of oars, and, much to our relief. 
 Uncle Tom, folio w,ed by Oliver and Jack, sprang on deck. 
 
 Our first inquiries were as to how they had weathered the gale. 
 'Famously,' answered Uncle Tom. 'We kept hove to till the 
 
A SHIPWRECK. 159 
 
 morning, when, as the wind moderated, we stood in here, a pilot 
 having boarded us and showed us the way.' 
 
 ^Who have you got here?' exclaimed Oliver, as he looked into 
 Nat's little berth. 
 
 Great was the astonishment of all the party when we described the 
 adventures we had met with. We talked over various plans for 
 finding out Nat's relatives, and what should be done with him, should 
 we not succeed. 
 
 Next morning we went on shore to inspect the town and to make 
 the tour of the island, which is easily^ done, as it is only two and a 
 half miles long and one and a half broad. The town had a somewhat 
 sombre^ look until we got on shore when the neat gardens full of 
 flowers, and the clean appearance of the streets, made us think better 
 of the place. Most of the houses are low, few of them having more 
 than two stories. 
 
 On the hill, about one hundred feet above the town, is the castle, 
 which has seen a good many stirring events in its time ; but its only 
 garjison now consists of a single individual, who, I suppose, is placed 
 there to prevent the rats from taking possession. It was built in the 
 time of Queen Elizabeth, b}^ Sir Francis Godolphin ; but its chief 
 interest arises from its being the last spot on British soil which held 
 out for the Koyalists in the days of Cromwell, when Sir John Grenville 
 was governor. Prince Charles fled here, and remained until he took 
 his departure for Jersey. For six years the stout Sir John retained 
 his post, and having collected a number of vessels, fitted them out as 
 cruisers, for the purpose of crippling the forces of the Parliamentary 
 party. These cruisers had,, in truth, very much the character of 
 pirates, and were not particular what vessels they robbed. Having 
 plundered some Dutchmen, they were very nearly being severely 
 punished by old Van Tromp, who appeared with a squadron. When 
 summoned to surrender, Sir John refused, and Van Tromp sailed 
 away. At length, so urgent became the representations of the mer- 
 chants whose vessels had been captured, that Parliament sent an 
 
160 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND, 
 
 expedition, under Admiral Blake and Sir George Askew, when Sir 
 John was compelled to surrender ; and he, with the eight hundred 
 men forming his garrison, received honourable terms. 
 
 Though at one time the inhabitants of the Scilly Islands were noted 
 for their barbarous customs, they have now become as peaceably 
 disposed and civilised as any of Her Majesty's subjecfej^^ 
 
 St. Mary's is divided into two parts by a narrow Ufeck of land, on 
 which Hugh Town stands. It is very possible that some day it will 
 be washed away. We passed over a well-laid-out piece of ground 
 covered with soft turf, on which sheep and deer were feeding, called 
 the Park ; and from it we could see the tall lighthouse and the few 
 cottages on St. Agnes Island. 
 
 We then proceeded to Buzza Hill, whence we could look down on 
 the harbour, which had the appearance of a large lake. Sometimes, 
 we were told, several hundred vessels take shelter within it. Opposite 
 to Hugh Town was Tresco, the residence of Mr. Smith, the lord 
 proprietor, surrounded by gardens containing avenues of geraniums 
 and plantations of the rarest exotics. 
 
 Some of the heights we reached were grand and picturesque in the 
 extreme — one of them, Penninis, especially so. Rocks seemed piled 
 on rocks ; beneath, vaults and caverns, abounding with lichens and 
 ferns, with crystal pools in the hollows of granite. Climbing to the 
 summit, our eyes ranged over the ocean, rolling in sublime magnificence, 
 its voice never silent. 
 
 On Tolmen Point is a Druidical monument — a perforated stone, 
 which we examined. Papa said that no one knew for what purpose 
 this monument, and others like it, were intended. He told us of one 
 especially, which he had seen at Constantine Penryn, of which he had 
 a photograph. It had lately, he said, been thrown down for the sake 
 of getting at the granite underneath. I think such destruction of old 
 monuments ought to be forbidden by law ! 
 
 Then we went to Porthhellick Cove, with wild rocks seen beyond 
 it, on which, in the year 1707, Sir Cloudesley Shovel, with four of 
 
 I 
 
A SHIPWRECK. 
 
 161 
 
 his ships and two thousand men, were cast away. Tlie body of the 
 admiral, known by a valuable ring on his finger, was buried on 
 the shore of the cove. It was afterwards removed to Westminster 
 Abbey. 
 
 Papa remarked that the strong current produced by the indraught 
 of the Irish Channel drifted these ships out of their course, and was 
 the cause of the catastrophe. 
 
 The inhabitants of the islands were once known for their smuggling 
 
 CONSTANTINE TOLMEN STONE. CORNWALL. 
 
 and wrecking propensities. A fisherman whom we fell in with — a 
 venerable-looking man, with white hair streaming under his cap — 
 pointed out several spots on which ships with rich cargoes had run on 
 shore, and assured us that Coin was still to be picked up in the sand, 
 if people would but take the trouble to look for it. In former days 
 everybody was engaged in smuggling, or trusting to salvage from 
 wrecks. There was but little farming. No potatoes were grown, and 
 there were no gardens, while their huts were as low and damp as 
 
 L 
 
162 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 those in the Hebrides. But when Mr. Smith came he chanored all 
 that ; and now the people live in comfortable houses, have gardens 
 full of flowers, and the productions of the islands afford them ample 
 support. Wheat and rye, and every description of vegetable, aie grown ; 
 scarlet geraniums flourish, while fuchsias, and a variety of other 
 niagnificent flowers, not only grow in the gardens, but form hedges 
 several feet in height. 
 
 Next morning we got under ^weigh to take a cruise among the 
 islands. Passing round on the other side of Hugh Town, we perceived 
 the narrowness of the strip on which it stands, and sincerely hoped 
 that the sea would not again — as it once did — break across and 
 inundate the place. I cannot attempt to describe the numerous rocks 
 and islands we sighted in our course, there being altogether upwards 
 of three hundred, large and small. Steering to the south-west, we 
 passed Gorregan and Kosevean, where our pilot told us that many a 
 stout ship had been lost ; some, striking on the rocks, having gone 
 down and left no sign of their fate, except some articles thrown up on 
 the shore. Coming to an anchor, we pulled off" in the boat to catch fish, 
 with which the sea literally swarmed. We could see them swimming 
 about through the clear water. We were amused by the way in 
 which our pilot, who was a great fisherman, caught them. Throwing 
 the bait always before their noses, and singing out, ' Come along, Dick, 
 come along, Tom ; bite, my boy ; ' and_, sure enough, the fish bit, and 
 were caught. 
 
 We afterwards passed several ruins of ancient chapels, when we 
 arrived off" St. Agnes, on which the magnificent lighthouse stands. 
 On the island were a few cottages ; and here the scarlet geranium was 
 almost a tree. 
 
 From this point we steered for the Bishop's Lighthouse, the most 
 western part of Scilly. It is a magnificent stone tower, one hundred 
 and forty-seven feet high, with one fixed bright light. This pan be 
 distinguished from that of St. Agnes, which revolves every minute. 
 
 Passing up Broad Sound we came off a fine headland, the proper 
 
A SHIPWRECK. 163 
 
 name of which is the ' Menavawr ' ; but our pilot called it the ^ Man 
 o' war.' 
 
 In our cruise we passed Bryher and Sampson, the two largest 
 islands in the group. The latter island is called after a saint of that 
 name. It consists of two hills, the outlines of which present the form 
 of the back of a camel. Landing on the shore, we made a collection 
 of beautiful shells, which accumulate in large quantities on the beach. 
 Our pilot told us that, until lately, the isle of Sampson was thickly 
 peopled; but the inhabitants, being addicted to certain illegal prac- 
 tices, such as wrecking and smuggling, and illicit distillation of 
 spirits, it was found necessary, as the only means of weaning them 
 from their bad habits, to disperse them, either on the mainland, or 
 through the other islands, where they could be better wa,tched. 
 
 We again got out our fishing-lines, which we baited with flies 
 formed out of untwisted pieces of rope. In a short time we had 
 caught a dozen fine whiting-pollock. We, however, had a still 
 greater catch shortly afterwards. 
 
 As we were sailing along through the Sound, a herd of porpoises 
 came gambolling by, their black bodies and fins now appearing, now 
 sinking beneath the surface. Captain Truck had a harpoon ready, 
 and he placed himself in the forechains, with a rope round his waist. 
 He stood with his weapon high poised in the air, ready to strike. We 
 I were all on the watch. In a few moments his harpoon flew from his 
 i hand. 
 
 ' Pay away, lads ! ' he shouted out ; ' the fellow's fast.' 
 
 The porpoise dived, and the line ran out at a rapid rate. Truck 
 '' sprang in board, and quickly checked it. We then got two running 
 bowlines ready, one in the fore part of the vessel, and the other aft. 
 ■There was great excitement. 
 
 \ 'Now haul away,' he sang out ; and the porpoise was dragged, in 
 f spite of its struggles, close alongside, when the running bowlines were 
 passed. one over its head, and the other round its tail; and all hands 
 Ijoining, including Nat, who took the end of a rope — although, as may 
 
 L % 
 
164 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 be supposed, he was not of much use — we hoisted the huge fish on 
 board. It was at once killed and scientifically cut up by Truck and 
 the pilot. So eager was the latter, that he very nearly let us strike 
 on a rock. We had some pieces of the porpoise beef for dinner, 
 which were pronounced very good. We supplied the Dolphin with a 
 portion of our catch, and our united crews lived on it for the next 
 two days. 
 
 Next day we had another similar cruise, during which we visited 
 the beautiful Sound called New Grimsby. On one side stands the 
 tower, known as Cromwell's Castle — not that he was ever in the 
 island, but he ordered it to be built. On the opposite side are the 
 ruins of another fort. It was here that the forces under Blake and 
 Askew landed, and attacked the fortifications, though they met with 
 a stout resistance from the Royalists, who at length took to flight. 
 
 Farther on we came off" vast masses of rock piled one upon 
 another. The two yachts having hove-to, we pulled on shore, and, 
 under the guidance of the pilot, managed to land ; when, climbing up 
 some distance, we reached a cone, from the bottom of which we could 
 hear the sea roaring fearfully. We then arrived lower down at a 
 small opening, when a guide, who had joined us, lighted some candles, 
 that we might find our way into a celebrated cavern, called ' Piper's 
 Hole.' For some distance we had to crawl along on our hands and 
 knees. At length we reached a narrow but high vault; this we 
 followed until we arrived at the head of a ladder. ' You will find a 
 boat at the bottom, gentlemen,' said the guide. 
 
 Jack and I, with Uncle Tom, descended, as we were told that the 
 boat could not carry a larger fare. After looking down for a few 
 seconds, we distinguished a light; and going down the ladder, we 
 stepped into a boat, in which a man, whom we of course denominated 
 Charon, was seated. Instead of oars, he used a long pole to urge on 
 the boat. We noticed the dark appearance of the water as we made 
 our way through the vaulted chambers. We now found ourselves 
 floating on a lake, the water black as ink, but perfectly smooth.: 
 
A SHIPWRECK. 165 
 
 Above our heads was a lofty and extensive dome; but the sides were 
 invisible. Charon ferried us across, and landed us on a smooth sandy 
 shore, along which we proceeded for a considerable distance through 
 a succession of caverns, until we arrived at a small circular chamber 
 where they appeared to terminate. 
 
 On putting my hand into the water on my return^ to my surprise I 
 found it perfectly fresh, although so close to the sea. Here any 
 number of outlaws might take refuge, with small chance of being 
 discovered, or defend themselves against any force sent in pursuit, 
 provided they had food to hoid out until their enemies had grown 
 weary of looking for them. Charon — unlike his namesake — had no 
 objection to ferry us back across the Styx ; and having made our way 
 into the upper air, we regained the boat. 
 
 Our next visit was to Rock Island, the resort of countless numbers 
 of sea-birds. It is at the extreme northern end of the group, and 
 consists of a high table-land, surrounded by precipitous cliffs. As we 
 approached, the gulls rose in masses so thick as positively to darken 
 the air, while all around the sea was speckled with the white feathers 
 of innumerable puffins.'^ On the cliffs were ranged numerous clusters 
 of black cormorants, who seemed to be watching us eagerly. Their 
 plumage was very fine, being of a lustrous invisible green, while their 
 eyes were of the brightest emerald hue. The boats which went in 
 pursuit brought back a number of gulls and puffins and cormorants, 
 some of which Oliver begged might be preserved for stuffing. 
 
 We paid a visit on the last day of our stay to the residence of 
 Mr. Smith, in the island of Tresco. On landing, we proceeded across a 
 park, and approached the large, many-gabled house, in front of which 
 the rocky ground was completely concealed by masses of blooming 
 creepers. We passed between beautiful flower-beds, among which 
 grew magnificent aloes, twenty feet in height, covered with bloom. 
 We wellnigh lost ourselves in the labyrinth of walks, literally shaded 
 by scarlet geraniums of giant growth, and shrubs, such as grow 
 nowhere in the open air on the mainland, many of them of extreme 
 
166 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 beauty, brought from all parts of the world. In the midst of the 
 gardens we came upon the ivy-mantled arches of the ruined abbey of 
 Tresco, which has reared its head in these far-off islands for the last 
 eight centuries. We all of us agreed that we had never before been 
 in so perfect a garden, so rich with a profusion of flowers. Mr. 
 Smith, in making this ' Paradise/ had an object in view — to set an 
 example to the inhabitants of these lonely islands, to show them what 
 
 Nature will do for them, when they put their shoulder to the wheel ; 
 and in few parts of the world are the climate and soil so suited to the 
 production of floral wonders. 
 
 I must not venture to give a further description of the place, but I 
 must say that Scilly is well worth a visit ; and I am sure that any of 
 my friends who may go there will not be disappointed. We were 
 quite sorry when papa and Uncle Tom determined to sail, reminding 
 us that, if we remained longer, we should have no time to see the 
 other places of interest it was our intention to visit on our voyage 
 
 round England. 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 OUT IN THE LIFEBOAT. 
 
 NCE more we were steering to the north-east, intending to 
 visit several places on the Cornish and Devonshire coast, 
 before standing across the Bristol Channel. The sea was 
 calm, and the wind, coming off shore, was light, as we 
 slowly sailed past the Cow-and-Calf Rocks. 
 
 ' Dear me, what a strange creature ! Why, there's a 
 black calf!' exclaimed little Nat, who was looking over the side of 
 the vessel as we glided on. 
 
 Captain Truck turned his eyes in the direction of the rocks, where, 
 sure enough, there was a strange-looking creature lying perfectly 
 still, and gazing up at us with large lustrous orbs. 
 
 ' That's a seal, Master Nat. If you could just look into one of the 
 caverns on this coast, you'd find lots of them creatures. Though they 
 are without feet or hands, they can manage to make their way along 
 the beach at a pretty fast rate with their flappers and tails. If you 
 were to see one, you would laugh.' 
 ' Couldn't we catch it ? ' asked Nat. 
 
 ' Maybe if he was to come near enough I might with my harpoon ; 
 but he is too big to be a passenger on board our small craft.' 
 
 Truck got his harpoon in readiness, but, fortunately for itself, the 
 seal did not come within reach of his deadly weapon. 
 
168 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 Rounding Stepper Pointy we stood up the broad estuary which 
 forms the mouth of the river Camel, on the southern shore of which 
 stands Padstow. The town is situated in a valley, with pretty 
 gardens on every side, while in front is a lake-like expanse of water 
 apparently surrounded by granite cliffs, the entrance being completely 
 shut out from view. Vessels of considerable size were at anchor, 
 showing that the water was deep. We observed many ancient- 
 looking buildings in the old part of the town near the quays, from 
 which a fine pier projected. Higher up were more modern-looking 
 buildings. 
 
 Having replenished our stores, which was our chief object in 
 coming in, though the place itself was well worth seeing, we again 
 sailed, and the same evening came off Tintagel Head. 
 
 Here both yachts were hove to. We all pulled on shore in the 
 boats, taking Nat with us. The place where we landed was near the 
 village of Trevena. Over an inn door was painted the name of 
 ' Charity Bray,' which we found to be the appellation of the landlady. 
 As we promised to take tea at her hostelry before returning on board, 
 she undertook to procure us a guide, who would lead us by the 
 shortest cut to the far-famed ancient castle of Tintagel. Hurrying on, 
 for we had no time to spare, we descended by a steep path along the 
 side of the cliff until we reached a lofty rock, on which one part of 
 the castle stands, while on the mainland another portion is built. 
 W^e were now standing at the bottom of a chasm looking up two 
 hundred feet or more to the castle walls, which were originally joined 
 by a drawbridge. The castle was anciently called Dunchine, or the 
 Fort of the Chasm. A zigzag path enabled us to gain the summit of 
 the cliffs. The entrance to the castle was through a gateway, a 
 ruined archway which still stands. Passing through it, we entered 
 a court, called King Arthur s Garden, immediately beyond which rose 
 a precipitous rock, crowned by a tower and wall — evidently the keep. 
 At the further side the cliff descends perpendicularly to the sea, while 
 on the other is the chasm I have mentioned as dividing the two 
 
OUT IN THE LIFEBOAT. 171 
 
 portions of the castle. The walls altogether encircled the larger part 
 of the promontory, and in some places can hardly be distinguished 
 from the cliffs, out of which they seem, as it were, to grow. The 
 headland, I was told, contains about forty acres. We remarked that 
 the walls were pierced with a number of small square orifices, probably 
 intended for the use of bowmen. In the rock overlooking the ocean 
 is a recess, which our guide told us was called ' King Arthur^s 
 Chair ' ; and in another part is a subterranean passage called ' King 
 Arthur's Hiding-place.' It is undoubtedly one of the most ancient 
 castles in the kingdom, though it was greatly enlarged in later j^ears, 
 and was kept up until the reign of Elizabeth, when it was abandoned 
 as a stronghold, and allowed to fall into decay. As it was King 
 Arthur's birth-place, so it was the spot where he lost his life. 
 I found some lines by the poet Wharton, describing the battle : 
 
 ' O'er Cornvvairs cliffs the tempest roared ; 
 High the screaming sea-mew soared ; 
 On Tintagel's topmost tower 
 Darksome fell the sleety shower, 
 Wheu Arthur ranged his red-cross ranks 
 On conscious Camlan's crimson banks, 
 By Modred's faithless guile decreed 
 Beneath a Saxon spear to bleed.' 
 
 Once upon a time the Corpish men were noted for being heartless 
 wreckers. There is a story current of a wicked man, who, having 
 tied up a donkey by the leg, fastened a lantern round its neck and 
 drove it along the summit of the cliffs ; the halting movement of the 
 creature, resembling the plunging of a ship, being calculated to tempt 
 vessels to their destruction, from the belief that there was ample sea 
 room. Happily, at the present time the Cornish men are as prompt to 
 save as they were in their savage days to lure hapless barques on 
 shore. This part of the coast is indeed a fearful one for any un- 
 fortunate ship driven upon it, though, by means of the rocket 
 apparatus and the lifeboats, the crew have a better chance of escape 
 than formerly. 
 
172 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 Soon after leaving Tintagel we came in sight of the higher light, 
 which beamed forth from Lundy Island, revolving every two minutes. 
 We stood on across Bade Bay, steering for Hartland Point, at the 
 southern side of Barnstaple Bay. The wind heading us, we stood off 
 the shore until we caught sight of the lower fixed light on Lundy 
 Island, where, from the distance we were from it, papa calculated that 
 the next tack would carry us into the bay. 
 
 I always enjoy sailing at night when finding our way by the lights, 
 with the chart spread out on the cabin table. The lighthouse of 
 Lundy Island — which is at the very entrance of the Bristol Channel 
 — is a great blessing to mariners ; while the island itself, which runs 
 north and south, and is long and narrow, affords shelter in a westerly 
 gale to the storm-tossed vessels bound along the coasts. 
 
 I was quite sorry when papa ordered me to turn in ; but I was on 
 deck again before daybreak, and found that we were standing towards 
 the two bright fixed lights at the entrance of Bideford Harbour, while 
 we could still see the lights of Lundy Island astern ; so that we knew 
 where we were as well as we should have done in broad daylight. 
 By keeping the two lights in one, we knew that we were standing for 
 the passage over the bar into the harbour. 
 
 It was just daylight as we entered the broad estuary where the 
 rivers Taw and Torridge flow into the ocean. We came off" Applc- 
 dore, at the mouth of the Torridge, on which Bideford is situated. 
 Bideford has an ancient school-house, where many a naval hero 
 acquired such education as was considered necessary to prepare him 
 for a life on the ocean. Another interesting object is its bridge, six 
 hundred and seventy-seven feet in length, supported by twenty-four 
 small arches, and carrying iron buttresses on its side to widen the 
 roadway; very ugly, I thought. 
 
 From Bideford also sailed many an exploring expedition ; while its 
 gallant mariners were well known on the Spanish main, where they 
 filled their pockets with doubloons, won at the point of their swords 
 from the haughty Dons. A new school has lately been established in 
 
ii^ililill' -'.^"^ 
 
OUT IN THE LIFEBOAT. 175 
 
 this neighbourhood for the sons of naval and military officers ; and 
 Dick and I agreed that we should like to go there. 
 
 ReturniDg down the river, we pulled up the northern arm of the 
 estuary. Barnstaple is a place of considerable importance, which has 
 existed since the reign of the Saxon kings : Athelstan having built a 
 castle here, made the town into a borough. It is a handsome-looking 
 place, but the harbour is much blocked up, so that only small vessels 
 can enter. The river is spanned by an ancient stone bridge, the width 
 of which is increased, as at Eideford, by iron projections for foot 
 passengers ; there is. also a railway on either side. We saw a number of 
 vessels building, and passed some large woollen and lace manufactories. 
 As we had all read Weduard Ho ! we were anxious to see Clovelly, 
 which lies at the south side of the bay. So, early the next morning, 
 getting under weigh, the tide being favourable, we ran out of the 
 harbour, and stood across to that most picturesque of villages. 
 Bringing up, we went on shore. We might almost have fancied 
 ourselves in some Chinese place, as we climbed up the High Street, 
 which is built in a hollow, with cliffs on either side, a rapid stream 
 rushing down it towards the sea. The streets are very narrow, 
 running in a zigzag fashion ; but the little gardens full of flowers at 
 the side of each doorway give it a most attractive appearance. It is 
 also clean and neat in the extreme; while the romantic scenery 
 around, and the views over Eideford Bay, covered as it was then by 
 the dark red sails of numberless trawling-boats, made us very glad 
 that we had landed. 
 
 As we had not much time to spare, we again put off, and sailed to 
 Ilfracombe. We passed on our way Morte Point, a dangerous head- 
 land, so called on account of the number of vessels that have been 
 shipwrecked there. There is a lighthouse on the cliff, to show the 
 position of this dangerous place, and a red buoy also floats over the 
 sunken rocks. 
 
 We had with us a chart, showing the position of the wrecks round 
 the English coasts. There were a considerable number around this 
 
176 
 
 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 headland ; but many more up the Bristol Channel, especially at the 
 mouth of the Severn, where the river appears crowded with black 
 dots. Off Plymouth, long rows of dots show where vessels have gone 
 
 CLOVELLY. 
 
 down. Between Lundy Island and the Welsh coast they are numerous ; 
 while they are equally dense between the Eddystone and Falmouth. 
 
M 
 
ILFRACOMBE. 
 
OUT IN THE LIFEBOAT. 179 
 
 They cluster thickly in the neighbourhood of all the headlands round 
 Cornwall. Though more sprinkled, they are almost within hail of 
 each other across St. George^s Channel, — from the entrance, to the 
 north of the Isle of Anglesea, — and still thicker at the mouth of the 
 Mersey. There are not a few off Portland. Between that and 
 Beachy Head they lie very close ; but from Dungeness to the North 
 Foreland they almost touch each other, every part of the Goodwin 
 Sands being covered by them. All along the shore at the mouth of 
 the Severn they can be counted by dozens ; but the sandbanks off 
 Great Yarmouth have proved the destruction of more vessels than 
 the rocks of any other part of the coast. There is scarcely twenty 
 miles of shore anywhere which could be passed over without those 
 dark spots which show that some vessel has been wrecked. 
 
 It was gratifying, however, to see painted on the map a number of 
 little red dots, which mark the lifeboat stations. Where wrecks have 
 more frequently occurred in past years, there they appear thickest. 
 On the Norfolk coast there are close upon thirty lifeboats, so that 
 they are in most places not more than five miles apart. , , ^ 
 
 We got into the snug little harbour of Ilfracombe, and the next 
 morning enjoyed a ramble among the picturesque rocks of that 
 romantic watering-place. In winter people come from a distance to 
 it, for it is one of the most attractive sea-side places on the English 
 coast, with rocks and sands, and comfortable lodging-houses. 
 
 As the wind was from the southward and the tide favourable, we 
 did not stay long, but stood across to Lundy Island, a rock at the 
 southern end of which is called Rat Island. We had seen the re- 
 volving light of the island before entering Barnstaple Bay. The east 
 coast is bold and precipitous, with numerous deep ravines running 
 into the cliffs. The south end is even more ruofged than the northern. 
 Near the landing-place is a cave hollowed out of a black rock, called 
 the Devil's Kitchen ; and beyond it is a narrow opening filled with 
 dangerous rocks, known as Hell's Gate. Indeed, from their character 
 many spots hereabouts are called after Satan or his imps. As papa 
 
 M % 
 
180 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 observed, people are ready enough to give Satan credit for the 
 physical ills they suffer, but too often forget the fearful moral power 
 he exerts, and yield themselves his willing slaves. Curiously enough, 
 the chief proprietor of the island, who lives in a substantial house, 
 rejoices in the name of ^Heaven.' 
 
 So narrow is the landing-place, that we had to follow each other 
 in single file. We had a glorious scramble among the rocks. On 
 the top of a height appeared Marisco's Castle, with low walls and 
 four towers, reminding us of the Tower of London. 
 
 Lundy Island has been the refuge of persons of high and low 
 degree. No small number of smugglers have made it their abode, 
 as from thence formerly they could carry on their lawless trade with 
 impunity. The most noted of them was a man named Benson, at 
 one time a member of Parliament, who had ultimately to escape to 
 ' foreign lands ' to avoid punishment. The pirates also in days of 
 yore used to make it their head-quarters ; indeed, Marisco, who built 
 the castle, may be included in the category of outlaws. He, with 
 a daring band of followers, long carried on their depredations on 
 foreign and mercantile shipping, until they were all captured and 
 hanged. 
 
 We met with vast numbers of puffins, cormorants, and sea-gulls, 
 which inhabit the cliffs of the island; and we obtained some good 
 specimens of their eggs. The most curious were those of the 
 guillemot, which, though little larger than the puffin, have eggs as 
 large as those of geese. They are white, chocolate, or verdigris green, 
 covered with curious figures and dashes; and it is said that, not- 
 withstanding the number collected, no two have ever been found 
 exactly alike. We took on board a number of eggs to eat. The 
 yolk is a deep red, and the white transparent. The Qgg of the 
 cormorant is but little larger than that of a pigeon. All these eggs 
 are laid on ledges of the rocks. Being small at one end and large 
 at the other, the wind rolls them round, but does not blow them 
 over the edge. 
 
OUT IN THE LIFEBOAT. 181 
 
 It did not take us long to inspect Lundy Island, for it is only 
 about two and a half miles long, and less than a mile wide. It 
 consists of a mass of granite rising about two hundred feet above 
 the sea. 
 
 We regretted being unable to visit Swansea, away to the north- 
 east, and Carmarthen ; but the coast between them is dangerous, 
 and the passage would have occupied a considerable time. We should 
 also have liked to look into the very pretty little seaside place of 
 Tenby, on the west of Carmarthen Bay. 
 
 Swansea is a town of very considerable importance. It has a large 
 foreign and home trade, and contains a number of furnaces for the 
 smelting of copper, the ore being imported from Cornwall and Devon- 
 shire, and even from Australia and other foreign places. Five or six 
 thousand ships visit it every year. Several canals and railways 
 connect it with other parts of the country. It is not surprising 
 that the wreck chart should show a number of black dots off its 
 harbour. 
 
 A fresh breeze from the south-east soon brought us in sight of 
 St. Ann's lights, forming the south-west entrance of Milford Haven ; 
 and guided by them we stood on towards the mouth of that magni- 
 ficent estuary, which we entered by the first dawn of day. Running 
 up it, we steered due east until we came ofi* the town of Milford, 
 where we brought-up, and sent on shore for fresh provisions. 
 
 Milford Haven is a wide estuary, in some places four and five 
 miles across. We went on shore, but there was not much to see 
 in the town. A naval dockyard, which once existed here, was 
 removed in 1814 to Pembroke, on the southern side of the estuary. 
 Having obtained what we wanted, Ave stood across to the latter place. 
 We anchored off the dockyard, which is even larger than that of 
 Portsmouth. We went through it, visiting several ships of various 
 sizes. We saw also buildings and manufactories similar to those at 
 Portsmouth. Everything is on a large scale. We were much inter- 
 ested in all we saw; but as I have already described Portsmouth, 
 
182 
 
 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND, 
 
 I need not give an account of Pembroke. From the width of Milford 
 Haven, and being open to the south-west gales, it does not, when 
 
 -Vv 
 
 THE MUMBLES, SWANSEA. 
 
 they are blowing, afford secure anchorage ; and the wreck chart shows 
 that a number of vessels have been lost within it. 
 
OUT IX THE LIFEBOAT. 183 
 
 Papa and Uncle Tom had a consultation on board the Lively, and 
 agreed that they would stand on up the Irish Channel, and touch at 
 no other place until we arrived at Caernarvon, at the entrance of 
 the Menai Straits, through which they intended to pass on our way 
 to Liverpool. 
 
 We accordingly sailed early in the morning, and steered across 
 for the SmalJs Lighthouse, to the westward of which they intended 
 to keep before standing up St. George's Channel. Though we had 
 a brisk breeze, it took us nearly three hours after we passed St. Ann's 
 Lighthouse, the distance being eighteen miles, to reach the Smalls 
 rocks. Before the lighthouse was erected many vessels were lost 
 on them, or on others between them and the coast of Wales. To 
 the northward are the Tuskar rocks, on the Irish coast, on which 
 also stands a fine lighthouse ; and the two may be considered the 
 guardian angels of the Channel. Those keeping to the east can see 
 the Smalls light, while those a short distance off more to the west 
 are in sight of the Tuskar light, which revolves every two minutes. 
 
 The tides run with great fierceness between the Smalls and the 
 mainland, amid the dangerous reefs which extend out from the 
 island of Skomer. As it was nearly slack tide when we got up to 
 the lighthouse, and as the water was smooth, papa and Uncle Tom 
 agreed to land. The yachts were hove-to, the boats lowered, and 
 we pulled in on the northern side, where we had no difficulty in 
 landing. 
 
 Two of the light-keepers, seeing us coming, descended to our assist- 
 ance, — for, as may be supposed, they are ever happy to receive 
 visitors, especially those bringing newspapers and periodicals. Before 
 ascending, our guides took us to the site of the old tower, and a 
 curious store-room, which was cut into the rock to serve as a coal- 
 cellar to the former edifice, of which one of them gave us an inter- 
 esting account. 
 
 Centuries had passed by, and numberless wrecks had occurred on 
 the Smalls and neighbouring rocks, when, about a hundred years ago, 
 
184 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 a ship belonging to Liverpool was lost on them. She was commanded 
 by a Captain Phillips, who, with his crew, escaped ; and from a feeling 
 of gratitude for his providential deliverance he determined that he 
 would do his utmost to get a lighthouse built on the rock. He 
 shortly afterwards became a shipowner and merchant in Liverpool ; 
 and, being successful in business, he forthwith put his intention into 
 execution. His fii-st plan was to fit long cast-iron pillars deep into 
 the rock, and to place upon them a circular room, as the habitation of 
 the light-keepers, with a lantern at the top. He had already raised 
 the pillars to a considerable height, when a heavy, gale came on, and 
 they were overthrown. Undaunted by his failure, Captain Phillips 
 again set to work, and engaged a Mr. Whiteside — an ingenious 
 mechanic and a native of Liverpool. Curiously enough, Mr. White- 
 side, who was about twenty-six years of age, had hitherto employed 
 his talents in making musical instruments, though, having means of 
 his own, he did not depend upon his labour for his subsistence. He 
 had never been to sea, and was ignorant of the power of the ocean. 
 Accompanied by half-a-dozen Cornish miners, he arrived in the 
 harbour of Solva, a small town near St. David's Head, on the north 
 side of St. Bride's Bay, about twenty -two miles from the Smalls rock. 
 He began the work by again using iron pillars, the task of the miners 
 being to bore holes in the rock in wdiich to fix them. Before they 
 had been long at work a gale arose, which compelled their vessel to 
 seek for safety in harbour, while they were left clinging to one of the 
 iron pillars. During that fearful night several of them were nearly 
 carried away. The gale abating on the third day, they were rescued 
 in a very exhausted state by the crew of their vessel. Still Mr. 
 Whiteside continued the work. After the iron pillars were fixed, and 
 already carried to some height, another gale so bent them as to 
 convince him that another material must be used. He accordingly 
 obtained the longest and stoutest oak trees to be procured in the 
 kingdom. After undergoing many hardships, dangers, and disap- 
 pointments, he ultimately erected five wooden and three iron pillars. 
 
OUT IN THE LIFEBOAT. 185 
 
 On the summit an octagonal room was formed, with a lamp above. 
 Afterwards the three iron pillars were removed, and oak placed in 
 their stead, with another in the centre, the whole supported by 
 diagonal stays, the lower ends of which were fixed in the rock. 
 
 A rope ladder leading from the rock to a trap in the floor of the 
 room enabled the light-keepers to ascend ; and in this room was 
 stored oil, coal, provisions, and other necessities, with spare bunks for 
 any mechanics employed, on the work or shipwrecked mariners who 
 might reach the rock. Thus but little space was left for the regular 
 inhabitants, two of whom, however, generally remained at a time in 
 the lighthouse. 
 
 During a severe gale, which lasted for many weeks, one of the men 
 died ; and the other, fearing that he might be accused of murdering 
 his companion, kept the body, placed in a coffin hanging under the 
 floor of the room, until he was relieved. In consequence of this event, 
 three keepers were always stationed at the lighthouse. The room 
 was only just of sufficient height for a man of ordinary stature to 
 stand upright ; indeed, one of the keepers, measuring six feet, was 
 unable to do so, and had to bend his head, lest he should strike it 
 against the beams. 
 
 Often, during even ordinary gales of wind, the whole structure 
 was completely covered by the water, so that when the waves rose 
 the light could not be seen. Having inspected the holes in which 
 the towers stood, we examined the cellar. It was cut out of the 
 solid rock, and is twenty feet long by eight wide, and four feet deep, 
 and has a covering of granite eight inches thick, the entrance being 
 by two gun-metal doors, or rather man-holes, perfectly impervious to 
 water when closed ; it was formed to hold the tools and stores of the 
 labourers. The rock itself is twelve feet above the level of the sea at 
 high water, and the lantern of the old lighthouse stood seventy feet 
 above the water. 
 
 For eighty years this curious pigeon-hole of a dwelling-house 
 towered in mid air, surrounded by the furious waves which dashed 
 
]86 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 wildly against it, until at length the Trinity Corporation, who had 
 purchased it from the heirs of the original possessor, resolved on 
 building a stone lighthouse, similar to that of the Eddystone ; and 
 Mr. James Douglas was entrusted with its construction. The first 
 stone was laid in 1857 ; and the light on the new tower was exhibited 
 on the 1st of August, 1861, the old structure being immediately after- 
 wards removed. 
 
 We made our way to the new lighthouse, which is of granite. 
 Twenty -nine feet above high-water mark, it is of solid masonry ; in 
 the next eighteen feet there is a well- staircase seven feet in diameter, 
 all the courses being secured in the most perfect manner. Having 
 climbed up by thirteen gun-metal steps, wedged into the solid granite, 
 we reached the entrance port. As may be supposed, we had to stretch 
 our legs to get up to it. We ascended the staircase by twenty-eight 
 steps to a room containing three iron water-tanks, holding a thousand 
 gallons, with a coal-cellar below it. Here a crane is fixed for hoisting 
 in stores. Seventeen more steps led us to the oil room. The arched 
 granite floors are composed of twelve radiating blocks of granite, 
 dovetailed to a centre stone nine inches thick in the centre, and one 
 foot seven inches in circumference. A slated floor is cemented on 
 to the surface of the granite. Another seventeen steps took us up 
 to the store-room, in which the meat and bread casks are kept. 
 Ascending a third series of seventeen steps, we arrived at the living 
 room, the walls of which are two feet six inches thick. Here is a 
 cooking-range with an oven, a bookcase, tables, &c. A fourth series 
 took us to the bedroom, in which there are five berths ; and by a 
 fifth staircase of seventeen steps we reach the watch-room, immediately 
 below the lantern ; but there is no seat, as the keeper is not allowed 
 to sit down during his watch. Sixteen more steps we mounted, 
 making altogether one hundred and twenty-nine, when we arrived at 
 the lantern. The apparatus is of the first catadioptric order, lighted 
 by a first-class pressure lamp. By it stands the machine for striking 
 the fog-bell, which weighs three hundredweight, and sounds about 
 
OUT IN THE LIFEBOAT. 187 
 
 every two seconds by means of a double clapper. There is also a 
 flagstaff, by means of which the light-keepers can hoist signals to 
 passing vessels. The total height of masonry above high-water mark 
 is one hundred and fifteen feet six inches ; and the diameter of the 
 tower over the outside of the cornice is twenty-one feet. Although 
 not so lofty, this magnificent lighthouse is a far stronger structure 
 than that of the Eddystone. 
 
 There are four light-keepers belonging to the lighthouse, one — as 
 is customary — being on shore. They seemed perfectly happy and 
 contented, liking the regularity of their lives, feeling, as they said, 
 fully as safe as they would miles inland. They were very glad of 
 a packet of newspapers and a couple of magazines we gave them, 
 which we obtained at Milford ; and the men begged us to give them 
 another look in, should we come that way again. This we promised 
 to do if Ave could. 
 
 The weather had hitherto been very fine, and we hoped to have 
 a pleasant run. We were gliding smoothly on, and had got very 
 nearly half across Cardigan Bay, when the weather gave signs of 
 changing. 
 
 ' We shall have a dirty night of it, sir, if I don't mistake,' observed 
 Truck to papa ; ' if the wind comes from the westward, it will be all 
 we can do to weather Bardsey Island.' 
 
 ' If we once round it, we shall have a clear run for Caernarvon,' 
 said papa ; ' and I should be sorry to delay by making for another 
 port.' 
 
 ' If you please, sir,' answered Truck, ' to my mind it would be as 
 well to get into port as soon as we can.' 
 
 ' We will see what the glass says,' observed papa. 
 
 He sent me below to look. It had fallen greatly within the last 
 half-hour. As we looked westward we saw heavy clouds banking 
 up in that direction, and rapidly approaching. Papa, on this, ordered 
 the gaff* topsail to be taken in, and the jib shifted. Presently after- 
 wards we had two reefs down in the mainsail, and a still smaller jib 
 
188 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 set. The wind rapidly increased. We went below and examined the 
 chart. The nearest port was Aberystwyth. 
 
 ' At all times there is sufficient water over the bar for small 
 craft like ours,' observed papa. ' We will run for it, and shall be 
 in before dark ; but if not, there are two lights to guide us into the 
 harbour.' 
 
 On going on deck, we made a signal to the Dolphin, and Uncle 
 Tom bore down to speak to us. Papa told him what he proposed 
 doing, and immediately altering our course, we stood into the bay. 
 Having a good chart, we had no difficulty in making out the land- 
 marking. In about an hour we came in sight of the ruined walls 
 of an ancient castle above the harbour. A number of fishing-boats 
 were making for the harbour, to find shelter from the expected gale ; 
 and, following them, we ran over the bar — it being high water — and 
 brought-up before the old-fashioned town. 
 
 The old town has not a very attractive appearance, as the streets 
 are narrow, and the houses covered with black slate, which give 
 them a sombre look, but there are also a number of large good- 
 looking houses, inhabited by visitors, who come here to bathe and 
 enjoy the sea-breezes, and we saw several churches and other public 
 buildings ; so that Aberystwyth may be considered a place of some 
 importance. 
 
 We were thankful to be in harbour, for we had scarcely dropped 
 our anchors before the gale broke with fearful violence. The sun had 
 already set, and the rain came down in torrents. We remained on 
 board, hoping to be able to see something of the old town and its 
 ruins the following morning, before sailing. 
 
 All night long we could hear the wind howling and whistling, and 
 the sea dashing against the rocks outside the harbour. When 
 morning broke, the storm was raging as fiercely as ever ; but as the 
 rain had ceased, as soon as we had had breakfast we went on shore 
 and walked down to the beach. 
 
 We met several people, who looked eager and excited, and inquiring 
 
OUT IN THE LIFEBOAT. 189 
 
 of thera the cause, they pointed seaward to the north-west, where, 
 amid the spray, we made out a large vessel on shore. 
 
 Presently we saw a carriage dragged by four horses, coming along 
 at a great rate, and as it came up we discovered that it contained the 
 lifeboat. Reaching the shore, it was turned round, with the back of 
 the carriage, on which the bow of the lifeboat rested, towards the sea. 
 The horses were now made to back it nearer and nearer the water. I 
 felt so eager to witness the proceedings that I would have given 
 anything to go off with the gallant crew. 
 
 ' Now, lads ! on board ! ' cried the coxswain. 
 
 As he uttered the words, not only the crew but a number of other 
 persons rushed down to the side of the boat. I found myself among 
 them. In one instant the crew leapt on board, and, seized by a 
 sudden impulse, I too sprang up the side, and slid down into the 
 bottom of the boat. The coxswain was standing up, watching the 
 seas as they rolled in. That moment was a favourable one for 
 launching the boat, and, crying out to the men on the beach to haul 
 away on the detaching lines, the boat, ere two seconds had passed, 
 began to glide towards the raging billows. The crew had seized 
 their oars, and were already giving way. Bravely the boat rolled 
 over the first sea she encountered; and in less than a minute — before 
 I was discovered — she was far from the beach, and pulling swiftly 
 away out to sea. Now, for the first time, the coxswain, casting his 
 eyes down, beheld me. 
 
 * Where do you come from, my lad?' he exclaimed; 'you have no 
 business here.' 
 
 ' I was on board before I had time to think about that,' I answered. 
 ' I beg your pardon ; but now that I am here I hope that you will let 
 me remain.' 
 
 'Provided you are not washed out of the boat,' he replied. 'Here, 
 take one of these cork -jackets and put it on, and then sit quiet. 
 Whatever happens, hold fast,— or, stay, lash yourself down ; remember 
 your life depends upon it.' 
 
190 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 I did as he directed, and had now time to reflect on the folly of my 
 proceeding — not that I feared for myself, but I knew papa and the 
 rest of our party would be dreadfully anxious when they missed me. 
 
 The coxswain took no further notice of me. He had enough to do 
 to attend to the steerage of the boat. I confess that before many 
 minuter? were over I wished myself back safe on shore. Still, I kept 
 up my spirits ; my only regret was that I had got on board without 
 papa's leave, and that he, and Oliver and Uncle Tom, and the rest, 
 would be made unhappy on my account. 
 
 In spite of the coxswain's orders, I stood up, holding the rope with 
 my left hand, waving my handkerchief with the other, hoping that 
 papa would see it, and at once know what I was doing. 
 
 I quickly sat down again, for I heard the coxswain cry out, ' Hold 
 fast, my lads ! ' and, turning my head for an instant over my shoulder, 
 I saw a tremendous wave come rushing on with a crest of foam curling 
 over it as if about to overwhelm the boat. On the crew pulled, 
 however ; when in an instant the sea broke, a large portion coming 
 right down into the boat, wetting us through fore and aft. But the 
 men seemed to think nothing of it, and on they pulled. Several other 
 seas broke over us in the same way. half filling the boat ; but she was 
 so constructed that the water ran out again, and directly afterwards she 
 was as buoyant as ever. We were pulling away to windward, to get a 
 sufticient offing from the land to set sail. It was a long business, for 
 although the men pulled hard, the wind was in our teeth, and the seas 
 seemed to be sending us back as fast as we advanced. Such, however, 
 was not the case, for on looking towards the shore I saw that we 
 were gradually increasing our distance from it. 
 
 Thus some hours were passed ; they appeared to me the longest I 
 had ever known, and I again and again wished myself on shore. Had 
 I been one of the crew, and felt that by my exertions I might have 
 contributed to the saving of the shipwrecked sailors, the case would 
 have been very different ; but I had to sit quiet. 
 
 At last the coxswain shouted out, ' Make sail ! ' The mast was 
 
OVT IN THE LIFEBOAT. 
 
 191 
 
 stepped, and a double-reefed foresail and mizen were set. The boat 
 could scarcely carry a smaller sail out ; even with that she heeled 
 over. Her head was now pointed towards the wreck, which seemed 
 farther and farther off; indeed, we could only occasionally get a glimpse 
 of her as we rose on the summits of the seas. How fearful must have 
 
 TO THE KESCUE 
 
 been the anxiety of those on board the wreck ! They might possibly 
 have seen the boat ; but if they did they might have feared that she 
 would not reach them, or that they w^ould not be r.ble to get on board 
 her before their ship went to pieces. At length the bank was reached 
 
192 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 which must be crossed before the wreck could be gained. The sea 
 here was breaking tremendously; the waves leaping and clashing 
 together, gave the water the appearance of a huge boiling cauldron. 
 The boat seemed literally struggling for life ; now the water poured in 
 on one side, now on the other, as she rolled to starboard or port. ^^^ 
 
 ' Hold on, hold on, my lads, for your lives ! ' cried the coxswain ; 
 and a tremendous sea broke bodily over her, threatening to sweep every 
 man on board away. I held on, as may be supposed, like grim death. 
 The men, slipping from their seats, placed their breasts on the thwart, 
 thrust their legs under them, and clasped them with both their arms, 
 while the water rushed over their backs and heads, so completely 
 burying us that I fully believed the boat was going down ; indeed, it 
 seemed as if we were gone. Suddenly regaining its buoyancy, up it 
 sprang again, throwing out most of the water through the side, while 
 the rest sank to the bottom of the boat, and once more she floated 
 bravely. 
 
 The men looked round, as did I, expecting that some of their 
 number would have been washed away ; but they had all instantly 
 regained their seats, and on she sped amid the hissing foam. 
 
 The wind, instead of lessening, appeared to increase, and the clouds 
 came down close above our heads, seeming almost to meet the dancing 
 crests of foam. With the masses of spray which continually broke 
 over her and the thick clouds above us, it was almost as dark as 
 night; and even the coxswain, with his sharp eyes, could with 
 difficulty distinguish the wreck. At last, the sands were crossed, and 
 the boat was once more ploughing her way through the seas, which 
 rolled in towards the shore with greater regularity than those we had 
 just passed. 
 
 'I see her! I see her!' cried the coxswain, who was standing up 
 peering ahead. ' She is little better than half a mile to leeward.' 
 
 The direction of the boat was slightly altered, and we stood down 
 towards the wreck. As we approached her we saw that her mainmast 
 was gone, that her foremast and yards were still ^standing, with their 
 
OUT IN THE LIFEBOAT. 193 
 
 sails fluttering wildly from them. The lifeboat crew now looked 
 anxiously towards the wreck, to ascertain if any men were still left 
 in the rigging or on the forepart of the hull, which alone remained 
 above the water. 
 
 ' I see one ! I see tv:o I ' exclaimed the men, in rapid succession. 
 ' They are waving to us.' 
 
 As we got still nearer, we could count no less than eight men in the 
 rigging ; but how to get to them was the difficulty. 
 
 ' The mainmast has not been cut adrift ; it will be a dangerous 
 task,' said the coxswain. ' Lads, we shall have to board her on the 
 weather-side, I fear.' 
 
 From the position we had gained we could now see to leeward; 
 and there, sure enough, hung the mainmast, which the sea was tossing 
 up and down in a way which would speedily have destroyed our boat. 
 The coxswain's resolution was taken. Running to windward, he 
 ordered the anchor to be let go and the sails lowered. His object was 
 to get sufficiently near the wreck to receive the people on board 
 without actually touching her. This was a dangerous undertaking ; 
 but it had to be performed, if any of the shipwrecked crew were to be 
 saved. Six hands went to the bow, and gradually the cable was paid 
 out, the huge rolling seas carrying us nearer and nearer the wreck. 
 Several broke over us, and, rising against the side of the vessel, 
 concealed her and the crew hanging on to the rigging from our sight. 
 I remained seated, clinging on to the thwart, for I knew that I 
 could do nothing. The brave coxswain, standing up, watched for an 
 advantageous moment to approach the wreck. It seemed to me that 
 it would never come. 
 
 ' Slacken the cable,' he shouted out ; ' three fathoms, a little more, 
 a little more ! ' 
 
 And now the stern of the boat got close up to the wreck. With a 
 wild cry of ' Now, lads, now ! ' four men sprang into the lifeboat. 
 They were active seamen, or they could not have done it. Scarcely 
 were they on board, than, looking forward, I saw a tremendous sea 
 
194 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND, 
 
 come rushing down on the boat. The coxswain shouted, ' Haul in, 
 lads! haul in! ' The crew, with two of the men who had just joined 
 us, hauled away from the wreck, only just in time ; for the sea would 
 otherwise have carried us right up on her deck, and either have 
 dashed the boat to pieces or upset her, and sent us all struggling into 
 the water. The huge wave having broken, again the boat was allowed 
 to approach, and six more of the crew, having unlashed themselves, 
 sprang into her one after the other. Neither they nor we were in 
 safety. ' Are there any more of you *? ' asked the coxswain, who was 
 compelled to keep his eye to wind\Yard to watch the approaching waves. 
 
 'Yes, five more,' was the answer. 
 
 ' Haul away I haul away, lads ! ' shouted the coxswain, for at that 
 instant he saw another huge wave rolling in. 
 
 The lifeboat crew saw it too, and knew full well that it would 
 prove our destruction, should we not get to a safe distance. Still, the 
 remainder of the crew were not to be deserted. Three were men, the 
 other two boys. I could see the poor fellows, as I looked back, 
 lashed to the rigging, holding up their hands in dumb show, implor- 
 ing us not to desert them. Neither the coxswain nor his crew were 
 men to do that ; but already the boat was crowded, and should the 
 sea break on board, some of those saved might be washed out of her. 
 Sea after sea rolled in on the wreck ; every moment I expected to see 
 the masts go, with the helpless men clinging to the shrouds, when all 
 must be lost. 
 
 'Pay out, pay out, my lads ! ' exclaimed the coxswain, just as a huge 
 sea was breaking astern of us, and three or four smaller ones of less 
 consequence were approaching. 
 
 Again the boat got close up to the wreck. Two more men sprang 
 into her. Another made the attempt, but his foot slipped, or he let go 
 his hold of the rope too soon, and, falling between the boat and the 
 vessel's side, disappeared. One shriek only escaped him ; it reached 
 the ears of the two poor boys, who seemed paralyzed with fear and 
 unable to help themselves. 
 
OUT IN THE LIFEBOAT. 195 
 
 The coxswain shouted to them to let go, and spring towards him. 
 One did as directed, and was caught by the strong arm of one of the 
 crew. The other appeared to be entangled in the rigging. The 
 brave man who had saved the other lad, seeing that the boy would be 
 lost, regardless of the danger he himself was incurring, sprang on 
 board, cutting the lashings with his knife, which he then threw from 
 him. He seized the boy round the waist. At that instant I heard 
 the cry, 'Haul off, haul off! ' 
 
 'Hold fast for a moment!' shouted the gallant man who had gone 
 to rescue the boy. 
 
 By the delay of that moment the lives of all of us were fearfully 
 imperilled. The man sprang with the rescued boy on board; but 
 scarcely had his feet touched the boat when the sea which had just before 
 been observed surrounded her and carried her right up high above 
 the deck of the wreck. The crew forward were hauling away with all 
 their might, although the bow of the boat was pointed downwards, 
 and must, I thought, be dragged under water. Every instant I 
 expected to hear the fatal crash. Had our mizenmast been caught in 
 any of the rigging, our destruction would have been certain ; but ere 
 the boat actually struck the wreck she was hauled oif ; and now the 
 crew, labouring with all their strength, drew her up to her anchor. 
 To weigh the anchor with the sea that was running was impossible. 
 Should the boat drift down on the wreck before sail could be made 
 she must be dashed to pieces. 
 
 ^ Hoist away ! ' cried the coxswain. 
 
 A few strokes with an axe severed the cable, the foresail filled, and 
 away we dashed through the foaming seas, passing so close to the 
 wreck that I thought our mast-head must have struck her bowsprit. 
 
 Fourteen human beings had been saved ; and with our rescued 
 freight on board we stood towards the harbour. Scarcely had we got 
 clear of the wreck than the remaining mast and the bowsprit went. 
 Had any delay occurred, all those fourteen of our fellow creatures 
 would have lost their lives. How long we had been away 
 
 N 2 
 
196 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 I could not tell, but it appeared like a lifetime to me. I saw that the 
 day was waning, and it would be long still before we could get back 
 safe to land. The gale blew as fiercely as at first, and the seas which 
 occasionally washed over us seemed to threaten our destruction. We 
 could dimly see the land ; but the lifeboat crew knew well where they 
 were going; and they now did what they could to relieve the 
 sufierings of the shipwrecked seamen by handing them the flasks of 
 restoratives, with which they had come provided. 
 
 Had I gone out with papa's leave, I should have been delighted to 
 see the gallant deed I had witnessed. As it was, I could not help 
 being secretly pleased, though now, str9,nge to say, as the danger 
 decreased, and I had time to think again of my friends, I earnestly 
 longed to be safe on shore. 
 
 At last we caught sight of the lights at the mouth of the river, 
 towards which the boat was making her way, although we had to go 
 a long distance round to reach it. I was, of course, wet through, and 
 cold and faint from want of food, though I felt no hunger. The 
 light grew higher and nearer. The wind was at last brought on the 
 quarter, and on the lifeboat flew. I felt her lifted by a monster sea, 
 then down she came, and was the next instant in comparatively 
 quiet' water. 
 
 Loud cheers greeted us from the shore, which were heartily answered 
 by our crew. 
 
 We rushed on, the sails were lowered, and we were alongside the 
 wharf. I was so numbed and cold that I could not stand or spring out 
 of the boat ; but I heard a voice, which I knew to be that of papa, 
 shouting out : 
 
 ' Did you take off" a boy with you 1 ' 
 
 ' Yes, sir ; all right ; here he is ; ' and the coxswain, lifting me up in 
 his arms, handed me to papa and Uncle Tom. 
 
 They neither of them said anything, but carried me to the boat, 
 which pulled off at once to the yacht. My teeth chattered with cold, 
 so that I could scarcely speak. I was very thankful that they did not 
 
our IN THE LIFEBOAT, 
 
 197 
 
 ask me questions. I was immediately put into my berth, and Truck 
 soon brought a basin of hot soup, while a stone bottle of hot water was 
 placed at my feet. In ten minutes I felt wonderfully better. Hearing 
 papa in the cabin, I at once acknowledged that I had acted very wrongly. 
 
 * The impulse seized me, and I could not resist it,' I said. 
 
 'You should not allow yourself to be influenced by a sudden 
 impulse ; but I am too thankful that you escaped destruction to be 
 angry with you. Let us thank God that you are preserved.' 
 
 After offering our sincere thanks to God for His merciful deliver- 
 ance, papa said no more ; and a very short time afterwards I fell 
 asleep. The next morning, when I awoke we were at sea with the 
 wind off shore, the sun shining brightly, and the water comparatively 
 smooth. There was still a swell from the westward, the only signs 
 of the recent storm. 
 
CHAPTER YIIL 
 
 LIVERPOOL AND GLASGOW. 
 
 FTER passing Aberdovey and Barmouth, in Cardigan Bay, 
 we sighted St. Tudwell's Island ; and then rounding Bard- 
 sey Island, on which stands a square white tower, ninety- 
 nine feet in height, with one bright fixed light shining far 
 out over St. George's Channel, we ran north past Porth- 
 dinlleyn, steering for Caernarvon, at the southern entrance 
 of the Menai Straits. 
 
 As we sailed along we had a great deal of conversation about life- 
 boats. They have been in existence since 1789, when the first boat 
 built expressly for saving life was launched by Mr. H. Greathead, 
 a boat-builder at South Shields ; but some years before that a London 
 coach-builder — Mr. Lionel Lukin — designed a boat which he called 
 ' an unimmergible boat ; ' and, for the purpose of carrying out his 
 experiments, he purchased a Norway yawl, which he tried in the 
 Thames. His plans were entirely successful. He soon afterwards 
 fitted a coble, sent from Bamborough, in Northumberland. The 
 Duke of Northumberland, approving of Mr. Greathead's invention, 
 ordered him to build a boat, which was afterwards stationed at North 
 Shields. For a long time his plan was considered the best, and there 
 are several of his lifeboats, which are impelled exclusively by oars, 
 still in existence. 
 
LIVERPOOL AND GLASGOW. 199 
 
 For years after their invention, the greater part of the coast was 
 without lifeboats, until Sir William Hillary, who, while residing in 
 the Isle of Man, had seen numerous vessels cast away, and lives lost, 
 expressed his wishes to Mr. Thomas Wilson, M.P. for the City of 
 London ; and the two gentlemen called a meeting in 1824, the result 
 of which was the establishment of the 'Koyal National Institution 
 for the Preservation of Life from Shipwreck.' From that time for- 
 ward great encouragement was given to the building of lifeboats ; 
 and there are few parts of the coast now without them. Of course, 
 a lifeboat must differ greatly from a common open boat, for even the 
 best of them is easily filled with water, or upset. 
 
 A lifeboat must be buoyant, and firmly ballasted, self-righting, 
 containing plenty of space for the rescued, strength to battle with 
 the heavy seas, and power to resist the many strikings against rocks 
 and wrecks. The buoyancy is obtained by having air chambers 
 formed along the sides of the boat, and a water-tight deck, the space 
 between which and the boat's floor is filled by air chambers. Beside 
 this, at each end there are air cases built across, and reaching to the 
 high gunwales of the bow and stern. The power of discharging 
 water is obtained by forming a watertight deck at the load-water 
 line. In this deck there are several large open tubes, having their 
 upper openings on the surface of the deck, and the lower ones in the 
 boat's floor, thus passing through the space between the deck and 
 the floor, and, of course, hermetically closed to it. In some boats 
 the tubes are kept open, but in the self-righting boats they are fitted 
 with self-acting valves, which open downwards only, so that they 
 will allow any water shipped to pass through them, whilst none can 
 pass upwards. Papa explained that, as the deck is placed above the 
 water-line, any water resting on it will be above the outside level of 
 the sea, and will run out through the valves and tubes into the sea. 
 As fluids always gain their level by specific gravity, the water passes 
 through the valves until none remains above the surface of the deck. 
 In the smaller lifeboats, which have no decks, the only way to relieve 
 
200 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 the boat is by bailing. It is important that a lifeboat should be well 
 ballasted, especially the larger sailing-boats. These are now ballasted 
 with water, which is let in after the boat is off the beach, and is 
 allowed to fill every available space to a certain height. By being 
 thus heavily ballasted, they can make their way through the most 
 tremendous seas, which would drive back any ordinary boat. Only 
 once has a boat of this description been upset. 
 
 A very important feature is that of self-righting. This is obtained 
 by having air chambers of large size, both at the bow and stern, 
 placed high above the centre of gravity. As the boat must be well 
 ballasted, she must have limited breadth of beam, as also limited 
 side buoyancy. By being properly ballasted, a boat can pass either 
 through or over a sea without being driven astern. The raised air 
 chambers prevent the sea breaking over her at the bow or stern; 
 while, if she dips into the sea, she instantly rises again. By having 
 a limited beam, she gains in speed, although she loses in stability ; 
 but, at the same time, if upset, she is much more speedily righted ; 
 while shorter oars are required, and fewer men to work them. 
 
 Papa was strongly in favour of the self-righting principle. The 
 best boats are diagonally built, and copper-fastened. The planks are 
 of mahogany, two thicknesses of half-inch board, with painted calico 
 between them. The keel is of American elm, and the false keel is 
 one piece of cast iron, two and a half inches in width, by four and 
 a half in depth, weighing nine hundredweight. The stem is of 
 English oak, and the gunwale of American elm. The floors are of 
 ash or oak. The deck is of mahogany, well caulked, and seven- 
 eighths of an inch in thickness. These boats are about thirty -three 
 feet in length over all, eight feet in breadth, four feet in depth. 
 They pull, when double-banked, ten oars, which are made of ash, or 
 sometimes fir; and they carry five or six pairs of spare oars, to 
 replace any which may be broken. They are fitted with life-lines 
 outside, by which the men, if thrown out of the boat, can hold on to 
 her, or people swimming can haul themselves on board. No other 
 
LIVERPOOL AND GLASGOW. 201 
 
 boats are built so strongly. The principle adopted for planking — 
 that of placing the planks diagonally — gives the greatest possible 
 strength and elasticity, while the mahogany used is of the best. 
 
 The lifeboats themselves are liable to disaster. They may be 
 crushed by falling masts, or driven right on board a wreck, or against 
 rocks, where, in spite of the efforts of their crews, they may be 
 dashed to pieces. It is now very rarely the case that lifeboats are 
 lost. In some places steamers are used to tow the lifeboat out to 
 sea ; but in most instances she alone can approach a wreck sufficiently 
 near to take off the crew. The cost of establishing a lifeboat on a 
 station is estimated at eight hundred pounds, five hundred and fifty 
 being the price of the boat, her stores, and carriage, and two hundred 
 and fifty pounds that of a substantial boat-house, while the annual 
 cost is about seventy pounds. 
 
 The weather was remarkably fine, and the sea smooth, as the wind 
 was off shore. We were generally in sight of the cliffs, which extend 
 along the coast, and had occasional glimpses of blue mountains 
 beyond, Snowdon towering above them all, with the Isle of Anglesea 
 on our port side, and the county of Caernarvon on the starboard. 
 After passing the entrance, the Straits widen out into a lake-like 
 expanse ; but the shores again close in where the town of Caernarvon 
 is situated. 
 
 Except its far-famed castle, there is nothing very particular to see 
 in the town itself, which is not so picturesque as many we have 
 visited. A small river, the Seiont, passes close to it. The whole 
 town is surrounded by walks united to the castle. The streets, 
 though rather narrow, are laid out at right angles to each other, and 
 are well paved and lighted. We landed, and traversed the town. 
 We presently made our way to the castle. The external walls are 
 ten feet thick, are nearly entire, and enclose a space of three acres. 
 Within them is a gallery running right round, with loop-holes for 
 the discharge of arrows. We clambered up two or three of the 
 towers, which had turrets on their summits ; the most important of 
 
202 
 
 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 them is called the Eagle Tower. We were shown a dark chamber, 
 twelve feet by eight ; and our guide declared that it was the room 
 in which the first Prince of Wales was born ; but, as papa observed, 
 that could not have been the case, as the tower was not built at the 
 
 CAERNARVON CASTLE. 
 
 time; besides, it was not at all the sort of place the queen would 
 have selected as her bed-chamber; it was far more likely to have 
 been a prison or guard-room. The castle was built by Edward the 
 First, soon after his conquest of Wales ; and it was finished about 
 
LIVERPOOL AND GLASGOW. 203 
 
 the year 1293. ^® ^ considered it the finest ruin we had yet seen. 
 About the time it was finished, the Welsh, led by Prince Madoc, 
 attacked and captured the castle ; when, according to the customs of 
 the times, they put its garrison to death, and burnt the town. 
 
 Rather more than a century after, Owen Glendower attempted to 
 take the castle, which was so gallantly defended by the governor 
 placed in it by Henry the Fourth, that he was compelled to raise the 
 siege. During the Civil Wars it was captured by the Parliamentary 
 forces, under General Mytton. Such are the chief historical events I 
 recollect connected with the fine old ruin. 
 
 A considerable number of trading vessels were alongside the quays, 
 taking in slate and copper ore, the chief products of the district. 
 Enormous quantities of slate are exported from Wales. 
 
 We remained a night here, as it was too late to run through the 
 Straits to Bangor. Early the following morning, however, the wind 
 was fair, and we continued on the same course. The tide also 
 favoured us. Had it been against us, as it runs at the rate of 
 between five and six miles an hour, we should have made but little 
 progress. The shores are high and picturesque, with villages here 
 and there, and some handsome residences, the finest belonging to the 
 Marquis of Anglesea. 
 
 We soon came in sight of the tubular bridge carrying the railway 
 across the Straits. The distance between the cliffs on either shore 
 is eleven hundred feet. It was curious, as we sailed under it, to 
 look up to a height of one hundred and four feet, and to see these 
 two enormous tubes above our heads. Their total length is one 
 thousand eight hundred and thirty-three feet, which includes two 
 hundred and thirty feet at either end resting on the land. The tubes 
 are composed of wrought-iron plates, three quarters of an inch thick, 
 tightly riveted together, the one carrying the up, and the other the 
 down line. The bridge is supported by three vast piers, measuring 
 sixty-two feet by fifty-three feet at their base. This wonderful work 
 is considered to surpass that of the Menai Bridge. It may be asked 
 
204 
 
 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND, 
 
 how these tubes could ever have been got up to their present 
 positions. This was accomplished by means of hydraulic presses of 
 the most powerful description ; indeed, it is asserted that one of them 
 could throw a stream of water twenty thousand feet into the air, — 
 above five times higher than Snowdon, and five thousand feet higher 
 
 TUBULAR BRIDGE OVER THE MENAI STRAITS. 
 
 than the summit of Mont Blanc. The bridge was commenced in 1846 
 by Robert Stephenson, and the first train passed through it on the 
 1st of March, 1850; since which time no accident has happened 
 to it. 
 
 A little further on we saw above us the celebrated Menai Bridge. 
 The piers are each one hundred and fifty three feet high, and five 
 hundred and fifty three feet apart. Sixteen iron chains, one thousand 
 
LIVERPOOL AND GLASGOW, 205 
 
 seven hundi-ed and fifteen feet in length, pass from pier to pier, and 
 support the bridge. The chains have a dip in the centre of forty-four 
 feet, thus allowing the roadway to have a clear elevation of a hun- 
 dred feet above high water at spring tide. These sixteen chains are 
 carried through sixty feet of solid rock. The whole length of the bridge 
 is about one-third of a mile, including four arches at one end, and three 
 at the other, which carry the road out to the two suspending piers. 
 The bridge was opened in January, 1826. It was designed by Thomas 
 Telford, the engineer. The work occupied six years, and cost £\iopoo^ 
 — much less than an ironclad, and infinitely more useful and durable. 
 Before it was built people had to cross by a dangerous ferry. We 
 were surprised to hear that the compensation given to the owners of the 
 ferry for the surrender of their right amounted to ;^26,577 — the 
 annual income of the ferry being computed at £^\^ i8s. 
 
 We sailed on to Bangor, before which we brought-up in the Bay of 
 Beaumaris. There is not much to see in the town itself, except that 
 it is pleasantly situated. By climbing the hill above it we obtained a 
 fine view over the island of Anglesea. J^ 
 
 Our chief object in coming here was to see the slate quarries at 
 Penrhyn. They are of enormous extent, and not less than three 
 thousand men and boys are employed in them, whose wages amount 
 to upwards of i^2ooo per week ; and it is calculated that upwards of 
 11,000 people, including wives and children, find subsistence from 
 working these quarries. A railway conveys the slate about six miles, 
 to the shores of the Menai Straits ; and upwards of 70,000 tons of 
 slate are annually exported, the income derived from them being 
 ;^25o,ooo per annum. They are the property of the noble owner 
 of the magnificent Penrhyn Castle. 
 
 We passed through the village of Llandegai — a model of beauty and 
 neatness — situated at the chief entrance of the castle grounds. We 
 crossed over by the ferry to Beaumaris, in the island of Anglesea. It is 
 a very picturesque place, on the north-western side of the bay called 
 after it. The distance across the bay is about eight miles. From the 
 
206 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 shore we could distinguish Penmaenmawr, Puffin Island, Great Orme's 
 Head, Conway Bay, and other interesting spots. The distance round 
 the whole island is about eighty miles. On the western shore lies the 
 island of Holyhead, joined to Anglesea by a bridge. This little island 
 is made the chief port of departure for the Irish coast. 
 
 The appearance of Anglesea is not picturesque, as the country is level, 
 and there are few trees ; but it is surrounded by rocks on the 
 northern shore. The most rugged portion is Moelfre Bay, where the 
 unfortunate Eoyal Charter was wrecked, when so many people lost 
 their lives. 
 
 Anglesea was the last part of England in which the Druids 
 practised their rites. Many of the Druidical remains still exist, the 
 most remarkable of which are called cromlechs — flat stones resting 
 upon others, probably serving as altars. Anglesea was governed by 
 its native princes until the reign of Edward the First, when it became 
 subject to England. We made our way to the ivy-covered castle, 
 which stands a short distance from the town. It is nearly square, 
 has a round tower at each angle, and another at each side, and is 
 surrounded by low massive walls. The inner court is about one 
 hundred and ninety feet square. To the north-west of it stands the 
 banqueting hall, seventy feet long. On the east side is a chapel, in 
 the Early English style of architecture. The castle was built by 
 Edward the First, soon after those of Conway and Caernarvon. It 
 was surrounded by a deep fosse, which could be filled by water from 
 the sea. It held out like that of Caernarvon, but was captured by 
 the Parliamentary forces under General Mytton. 
 
 We got back late, and did not sail until next morning, when we 
 stood for the entrance of Conway harbour, but had to pull up to the 
 town in a boat. 
 
 We have seen, many interesting places ; but as we gazed up at the 
 great walls of the ancient castle of Conway, we agreed it is the most 
 beautiful and picturesque of them all. 
 
 I can give only a brief description of the town. It is surrounded 
 
LIVERPOOL AND GLASGOW. 207 
 
 by a wall twelve feet thick, and a mile and a quarter in length, 
 having twenty-seven towers and battlements. One of them is called 
 Llewellyn's. It is entered by five gates, three principal, and one 
 postern ; and another has been formed to admit a suspension-bridge 
 across the river, similar to that constructed by Mr. Telford across the 
 Menai Straits. Mr. Stephenson also designed the tubular bridge 
 through which the Holyhead railway passes. The town contains 
 some very picturesque houses, built in the time of Elizabeth. 
 
 The castle stands on the verge of a precipitous rock on the south- 
 east corner of the town. Its walls are triangular in shape, being said 
 to resemble a Welsh harp ; they are fifteen feet thick, and are 
 strengthened by twenty-one towers. The most striking portion is 
 Queen Eleanor's Tower ; the most curious is the Fragment Tower. 
 Two centuries ago some of the inhabitants, searching for slate, 
 undermined it, when a portion fell, leaving a perfect arch, since which 
 period not a stone has fallen away, and it is still as firm as ever. We 
 wandered round and round the castle, wondering at the massive- 
 ness of the masonry. It would have still been perfect — for it was 
 spared by the Parliamentary forces who captured it — had not a Lord 
 Conway, in Charles the Second's reign, stripped ofi* the timber, lead, 
 and other materials to sell. The vessels, however, conveying the 
 materials to Ireland, were lost, and the greedy baron gained nothing 
 by the barbarous proceeding. 
 
 Pulling down the river, we returned on board, and immediately 
 getting under weigh, beat out of Beaumaris Bay. Having taken a 
 look at Puffin's Island, and rounded the lofty promontory of Great 
 Orme's Head, with a fair wind, we stood for the mouth of the Mersey. 
 
 By keeping very close in shore for some distance we got a view of 
 Llandudno, now become a fashionable watering-place, and sighted 
 Abergele, where the fearful railway accident happened some years ago, 
 when so many people were crushed or burnt to death. We also 
 passed over the spot where the Ocean Monarch was burnt, almost close 
 to the land ; yet out of nearly four hundred passengers, nearly half 
 
208 
 
 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 were lost. The ship was so near the beach that good swimmers could 
 easily have reached the shore. The survivors were rescued by the 
 boats of various vessels which came to their assistance. 
 
 CONWAY CASTLE. 
 
 It was getting dusk when we sighted the bright light on Ayr Point, 
 at the mouth of the river Dee. As the navigation of the Mersey is 
 
LIVERPOOL AND GLASGOW. 209 
 
 difficult during the dark, we ran up the river a short distance, and 
 came to an anchor off the town of Mostyn. 
 
 The Dee is a most picturesque river, from its source in Merioneth- 
 shire to Chester ; but its navigation at the mouth is somewhat 
 difficult, owing to the large deposits of sand, which have to a great 
 extent blocked up the channel. Between Chester and the mouth 
 are two flourishing towns, Holywell and Flint. The chief wealth 
 of Flintshire consists in its lead mines, which are very produc- 
 tive ; and not only is lead dug up, but silver, of which about ten 
 ounces is found in every ton of ore. Flint has a castle ; but it is not 
 equal in picturesque beauty, we are told, to those we had already 
 seen. 
 
 Eefore daylight we were again under weigh, as we had numerous 
 lighthouses and light-ships to guide us ; indeed, no river is more 
 perfectly lighted than the Mersey, for numerous shoals lie at its 
 entrance, and few rivers have so many vessels standing in and out at 
 all hours. We counted no less than eight lights as we sailed along. 
 
 Daylight broke as we came off the mouth of the river ; and the 
 wind being fair and moderate, we stood up without fear of getting on 
 shore. We followed a homeward-bound clipper fruit vessel, passing 
 the entrance to numerous fine docks, and shipping of all descriptions. 
 We picked up a tolerably safe berth among several other yachts. It 
 was well we got up when we did, for soon afterwards the whole river 
 seemed covered with spluttering, hissing, smoking, panting, busy little 
 steam vessels, crossing to Birkenhead, on the Chester shore, or 
 running up the river or down the river, or visiting vessels at anchor 
 in the stream. The tide also had just turned. The wind being light 
 and fair, numbers of outward-bound ships got under weigh, carried on 
 their course by steamers lashed alongside. As soon as we had dressed 
 and breakfasted, we pulled to a landing-stage outside the docks. 
 
 Giving a description of Liverpool is out of the question. We made 
 our way over bridges until we reached the quays, and then through 
 streets with enormously high warehouses, many of them constructed 
 
 o 
 
210 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 entirely of iron. We passed the Custom House, which stands on the 
 very site of Lyrpul, the old pool from which Liverpool derives its 
 name having been long since filled up. It is said to be one of the 
 most magnificent pieces of architecture that our age has produced. 
 Near the Custom House is the Exchange, with a wide square in front ; 
 and further to the left the parish church of St. Nicholas, interesting 
 from its antiquity. Passing along a fine street, we reached St. 
 George's Hall, a sumptuous Corinthian building, upwards of four 
 hundred feet in length. As within it the judicial proceedings of 
 Liverpool are conducted, it is known as the Assize Court. The most 
 interesting place we visited near the water was the Sailors' Home, a 
 fine building, opened in 1 850. At each corner is a square tower, sur- 
 mounted by a dome, the summit of which is one hundred feet from the 
 ground. Passing through the Canning Place entrance, we entered a 
 lofty hall, surrounded by galleries communicating with rooms on the 
 several floors. The building contains a large dining-hall, a lecture- 
 room, reading-room, savings bank, and nautical school. Both officers 
 and men are received, and a seaman may lodge there a day, or for as 
 long a time as he remains in port, during which time he is provided 
 with board and medical attendance at a very moderate rate. 
 
 After walking through the streets of Liverpool, we crossed by a 
 ferry to Birkenhead, and made our way to a spot of high ground, 
 from whence we could obtain a complete panoramic view of the town 
 and river. Looking to our right, we saw the Mersey flowing from the 
 south in a northerly direction towards the Irish Sea. Below us, in 
 the midst of the stream, we could distinguish, extending in a long 
 line from right to left, some of the largest merchant ships in the 
 world. There were also smaller craft of every description, with the 
 flags of nearly all nations flying from their mast-heads, either ready to 
 sail, waiting for orders, or preparing to go into dock ; while others, 
 with wide-spread canvas, or with steam tugs alongside, were coming 
 up or down the river. Before us we made out a huge tobacco ware- 
 house, and behind it, dock beyond dock, far away to the south, and 
 
LIVERPOOL AND GLASGOW, 
 
 211 
 
 still further towards the sea and the north. On one side was the 
 King's Dock, the Queen's Basin and Dock, the Coburg Dock, the 
 
 SAILORS HOME, LIVERPOOL. 
 
 Union Dock, and the Brunswick Dock — 'their names showing,' as 
 papa observed, 'the periods at which they were formed.* To the 
 
 o % 
 
212 
 
 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 north of King's Dock we saw the Albert Dock, with the Marine Parade 
 in front of it ; also Salthouse Dock, Canning Dock, George's Dock, with 
 its landing-stage towards the river ; and the enormous Prince's Dock 
 still further to the south, and a hne of basins and docks beyond. These 
 docks are not small pools, but large rectangular lakes, crowded thickly 
 with magnificent shipping loaded with the produce of numberless 
 countries, their tall masts rising towards the sky in dense groves, their 
 
 STRAND STREET, LIVERPOOL. 
 
 yards so interlocked that it seemed impossible that they could ever be 
 extricated. The sight gave us some idea of the number of vessels 
 which belong to Liverpool, or annually visit this port. "^J — \ 
 
LIVERPOOL AND GLASGOW. 213 
 
 Beyond this double row of docks we saw the vast city rising 
 <yradually from the water, with winding streets extending from 
 the Custom House in all directions, the larger running eastward, 
 with numerous churches and other public buildings scattered amid 
 them ; and far beyond, squares and parks, with streets of handsome 
 private residences. 
 
 Little more than a century ago Liverpool possessed only three 
 small docks, and the shipping belonging to the port amounted to 
 only 236 vessels. At present upwards of 10,000 vessels belong 
 to the port ; while the ships entered outwards and inwards number 
 upwards of 30,000, with a burden of more than four million tons. 
 We went on board a training-ship for poor boys taken from the 
 streets, to fit them for becoming seamen in the merchant service. 
 There is also another ship to prepare officers, conducted on the same 
 principle as that of the Worcester in the Thames. We then pulled 
 on board a large Australian emigrant ship about to sail. She carried 
 three classes of passengers. The first had very handsome cabins 
 surrounding the saloon, which was fitted up in a luxurious style. 
 On the deck below there were the second-class passengers, whose 
 cabins were comfortable, but confined, and their mess-cabin was 
 rather small for the number of people to occupy it. The larger part 
 of the lower deck was fitted with rough wooden berths, partitioned 
 off for each family, one sleeping-place being above the other, and a 
 small space in front for the people to dress in. There was an after 
 division occupied by the single women, who had a matron to 
 superintend them ; while the single men were also in a division by 
 themselves. They were all under the care of a surgeon. There 
 was a schoolmaster, to teach those who wished to learn during the 
 voyage, and to act as chaplain. Constables were selected from 
 amongst the most respectable of the married men, whose duty it was 
 to keep order, and to see that the rules and regulations were properly 
 observed. Of course, with so many people crowded together, it is 
 highly necessary that cleanhness should be attended to. The ship 
 
214 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 was getting under weigh, and the people who had come to see their 
 relatives and friends off were ordered into their boats. We witnessed 
 many pathetic scenes. There was much fluttering of handkerchiefs 
 as the boats pulled away, while the women crowded the sides, and 
 the men climbed up into the shrouds and waved their hats. The 
 moorings were slipped, the tug began puffing and snorting, and 
 the stout ship commenced her voyage half round the world, bearing 
 away many who were never again to see their native shores. Many 
 thousands of people thus leave Liverpool for Australia, New Zealand, 
 or the Cape, as well as for Canada, the United States, and South 
 America, every year. 
 
 It took us four days to obtain even a cursory view of Liverpool 
 and Birkenhead. We were very glad to be at sea again. The 
 weather was hot, and running about all day was tiring work. 
 Leaving the river, we steered along the Lancashire coast, but did 
 not put into any of its numerous harbours, contenting ourselves 
 with looking at the chart and reading a description of each place 
 as we came off it. Our course was for the Mull of Galloway, the 
 most southern point of Scotland ; but we could not steer directly 
 for it, as we should have run down the Isle of Man, 'and sunk it^ 
 for what we could tell,' as Dick observed. We had therefore to keep 
 to the eastward of that island. Among the places we passed were 
 Lytham, Blackpool, and Fleetwood ; and then, crossing Morecambe 
 Bay, we passed Walney, to the south of the river Duddon. From 
 Fleetwood a number of vessels run across to the Isle of Man. We 
 were much amused on coming on deck in the morning to hear Dick 
 Pepper remark : 
 
 ' Hullo ! what's become of the land ? ' 
 
 It was the first time that we had been actually out of sight 
 of land. 
 
 ' How shall we manage to find our way now 1 ' he asked. 
 
 I pointed to the compass. 
 
 ' That will take us there,' I answered. 
 
LIVERPOOL AND GLASGOW. 215 
 
 ' Oh, yes ; but suppose it made a mistake ? We should be running 
 on to some coast or other before we knew where we were.' 
 
 ' We crossed the big sea/ observed Nat, ' and for days and days 
 together we did not see any land.' 
 
 I got out the chart, and showed Dick the point of Ayr, the most 
 northern part of the Isle of Man, towards which we were now directing 
 our course. 
 
 ' We shall see it in the course of the morning. If you were to 
 go to the mast-head, you would probably make out the land to the 
 south of it.' 
 
 ' Are we to touch at the Isle of Man ? ' asked Dick. ' I should 
 very much like to see some of the places described by Sir Walter 
 Scott.' 
 
 'Papa says that we have no time,' I replied. 'If we don't 
 make more speed than we have hitherto done, we shall not get round 
 England before the summer is over ; and the east coast is not to 
 be trifled with. Although he says that we shall be unable to see 
 many of the places he would like to visit, we shall nevertheless obtain 
 a general view of the country.' 
 
 I have not said much about Nat. Poor little fellow! He was 
 quite reconciled to his lot, and had become completely one of us. 
 We had as much affection for him as if he had been our brother. 
 I took a special interest in him, as he was my pupil ; and I devoted 
 a part of every day to teaching him. He was very obedient, and 
 always did his best to learn his lessons ; so that it was quite a 
 pleasure for me to instruct him. 
 
 Dick was greatly astonished when papa came on deck with the 
 sextant in his hand, and ' shot ' the sun, as it is called ; that is to 
 say, he ascertained our exact latitude by observing through the 
 instrument the height of the sun at noon. Placing it to his eye, 
 he watched it until it ceased to rise, the indicator showing the 
 number of degrees it was above the horizon. The Nautical Almanack 
 gives the height it would be at noon on that day along every parallel 
 
216 
 
 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 so that a few figures enabled him to ascertain how far north we had 
 sailed. The way to find the longitude, he explained to us, was by 
 means of the chronometer. An observation is then taken of the sun, 
 moon, or a star, which would appear at a certain height above the 
 horizon at that particular hour. 
 
 AILSA CKAG. 
 
 The wind fell before we reached the Isle of Man. In the eveninof 
 we saw several bright lights burst forth — some on the Isle of Man, 
 others on the mainland. On the right we saw a fixed light, which 
 the chart showed us was St. Bees' Head ; while another shone from 
 the point of Ayr. Leaving St. Bees' Head astern, with the light 
 on the point of Ayr on our port beam, we came in sight of the 
 
LIVERPOOL AND GLASGOW. 217 
 
 intermittent light of the Mull of Galloway. Most of these lights 
 were visible at the same time ; and as we sailed up the channel 
 we could see those on the Iiish coast, as well as those on the coast of 
 Scotland. 
 
 When we came on deck the next morning, we were passing 
 along the coast of Ayrshire, within sight of Ailsa Crag, a fine rock, 
 which stands out of the sea to a great height. It is a mass of columnar 
 trap of a grey colour. We steered so as to pass it on our starboard 
 side. We had come in sight of the southern face, where we could 
 distinguish a square tower, perched on a terrace^ about two hundred 
 feet above the sea. The ascent to the summit must be no easy 
 matter. ' As we sailed on, we came off the north-west side, which 
 is almost perpendicular, and composed of successive tiers of enormous 
 columns. Here we made out a cave, above which was a grassy 
 declivity sloping upwards towards the summit. Though it is at the 
 very mouth of the Clyde, its great height causes it to be seen at 
 a distance, preventing it being dangerous to vessels bound to Glasgow. 
 Any person inclined to solitude might take up his abode there, 
 and live without leaving it, as it is inhabited by numerous flocks of 
 sea-fowl, with goats and rabbits ; while nettles, and a variety of hardy 
 plants, grow in the interstices of the rocks. I asked Dick if he would 
 like to remain there, saying that I would get papa to put him on 
 shore, if he wished it ; but he declined the offer, preferring rather to 
 go back to school at the end of the holidays. 
 
 Passing Ayr and Troon, we came off Ardrossan, then stood on 
 to Port-in-cross, close to Fairlie Head, which forms the south-eastern 
 point at the entrance of the Firth of Clyde. Opposite, in the distance, 
 rose the Isle of Arran, with its lofty picturesque hills. We brought 
 up off Port-in-cross for the night, as we wished to have daylight for 
 ascending the Clyde, so as to enjoy the scenery. 
 
 Next morning, the wind being fair, we made good progress. The 
 country on our right, though very smiling and pretty, was not so 
 grand as we expected ; but we saw, far away over the port bow, blue 
 
218 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 mountains rising one beyond the other. Directly after getting under 
 weigh, we passed two islands, the Lesser Cumbrae, at the entrance of 
 the Firth, and the Greater Cumbrae, a little higher up. 
 
 To our right we saw the village of Largs, celebrated as the scene of 
 a great battle, won by the Scottish army, under Alexander the Third, 
 over Haco, King of Norway. To our left was the Island of Bute. We 
 sailed on nearly due north, until the channel gave a sudden bend, 
 just after we had passed the town of Greenock, a busy-looking place, 
 with ship-building yards, and smoking chimneys, interesting to us 
 because Watt was born here ; near it we had seen on the opposite 
 shore the village of Dunoon, a pretty wateriug-place. The wind being 
 from the southward, we were able, close-hauled, to stand up the 
 Clyde. We passed Port Glasgow, which was at one time really the 
 port of Glasgow ; but the river having been deepened by dredges, 
 vessels of large size can now run up to Glasgow itself. 
 
 We appeared to be in quite a labyrinth of lochs, Holy Loch running 
 up in one direction, Loch Long in another, and Gare Loch in a third, 
 all joining the Clyde on the north. We were eagerly looking out 
 for Dumbarton, which stands on a lofty projecting point of rock 
 where the river Leven runs into the Clyde. The scenery round us 
 was the finest we had yet beheld. The summit is crowned by 
 bristling batteries pointing down the Firth. Bringing up, that we 
 might pay it a visit, we at once pulled towards the Governor's house, 
 which stands on a platform at the base of the rock. We ascended 
 a flight of steep steps to a space between two summits, where are 
 erected some barracks and the armoury. The most interesting object 
 we saw was Wallace's great double-handed sword, which he wielded 
 with such terrific power against his southern foes. Of course, as 
 we looked at it, we sang — 
 
 'Scots wa' hae wi' Wallace bled.' 
 
 When the unfortunate Mary was Queen of Scots, in the year 157 1, 
 and the place was in possession of her partisans, it was captured in 
 an extraordinary manner by Crawford, of Jordan Hill, an officer of 
 
LIVERPOOL AND GLASGOW. 219 
 
 the Lennox. He and a few followers, landing there during the night 
 with ladders, climbed the cliffs. During the ascent one of the party 
 was seized with a paralytic fit. As any sound would have aroused 
 the garrison, the man was lashed by his companions to the ladder. It 
 was then turned round, and they all ascended, leaving him hanging 
 there until they had gained the fortress, when he was released. 
 
 From this eminence we obtained a magrnificent view over the Vale 
 of Leven, with lofty Ben Lomond in the distance ; while the views 
 down and up the Clyde were such as we had never seen surpassed 
 in beauty. 
 
 As papa and Uncle Tom did not wish to take the yachts further, 
 we got on board one of the steamers running up to Glasgow. During 
 the passage we passed numbers of steamers, large and small, rushing 
 up and down the stream at a rapid rate; and sailing vessels of all 
 sizes outward-bound, or returning home ; the former laden with the 
 cotton and woollen manufactures produced in Glasgow and the neigh- 
 bourhood, giving us some idea of the vast amount of trade carried on 
 in the city. Curious-looking steam dredges were also at work, with 
 wheels ever revolving, ladling up the mud from the bottom of the 
 river — an endless task, for fresh mud is constantly being washed down 
 from the upper parts of the stream. Clouds of smoke and increasing 
 signs of activity showed us that we were approaching Glasgow. 
 
 We took a hurried view of that famed city, wandered through its 
 broad streets, with stone-built houses and fine edifices, people bustling 
 about, and numberless tall factory chimneys smoking ; drays and 
 carts carrying merchandise from the quays, and everything wearing 
 an air of prosperity. We looked into the ancient sombre Cathedral, 
 with its beautiful modern stained-glass windows, and visited the 
 University, with its museum and library, — the museum bequeathed 
 by William Hunter, the great surgeon, who gave at the same time 
 jf 8,000 to erect a building for its reception. 
 
 Uncle Tom told us a story of Hunter's first lecture. Being unknown 
 to fame, no one had come to hear him. On entering the hall, he 
 
220 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 found only Sandy M'Tavish, the old custos. He was not daunted, 
 however. Bidding the old man sit down, he brought a skeleton from 
 a cupboard, and having placed it in front of him, he began to lecture 
 to it and Sandy. First one student by chance looked in, and, seeing 
 what was going forward, beckoned to another. In the course of a few 
 
 GLASGOW UNIVERSITY. 
 
 minutes another dropped in, and soon discovered that no ordinary 
 lecturer was speaking. The whole audience could not have amounted 
 to a dozen ; but they soon made a noise about what they had heard, 
 and the next day the hall was crowded. 
 
 Our next visit was to a fine cemetery across a valley above the 
 town ; and Dick declared that it would be quite a pleasure to be 
 buried there. It was crowded with fine monuments to celebrated 
 persons. 
 
 Glasgow owes much of its prosperity to its situation in the midst of 
 a country producing coal and minerals, and having water communica- 
 
LIVERPOOL AND GLASGOW. 
 
 221 
 
 tion down the Clyde towards the west into the Atlantic, and through 
 the great canal which connects that river with the Forth and German 
 Ocean. We got back to Dumbarton, where the Dolphin's boat was 
 on ihe look-out for us, just at nightfall. 
 
 It being moonlight, we sailed down the Clyde, and enjoyed the 
 beautiful scenery under a different aspect. Had we possessed steam, 
 we could have run through the channel of Bute, and then up Loch 
 Fyne, passing through the Crinan Canal into Loch Linnhe ; but as 
 that could not be done, we had to sail round Arran and the Mull of 
 Can tyre, and then up the Sound of Jura. We thus lost the enjoyment 
 of much magnificent scenery ; but the shorter route would probably 
 have taken us a far longer time to perform, as in those narrow waters 
 we could only sail during daylight, and might be detained by a 
 contrary wind, "^jy^ 
 
 OLD LIVERPOOL. 
 
CHAPTEE IX. 
 
 THE CALEDONIAN CANAL. 
 
 'HE clay after leaving the Clyde, we were coasting along the 
 not very attractive-looking island of Islay, inhabited by the 
 Macdonalds. It was often the scene of forays, which one 
 clan was wont to make on another, in the good old days, 
 as people delight to call them, when the ancestors of the 
 present race were scarcely more civilised than the South Sea 
 islanders. Though rock-girt, Islay is fertile, and a large portion has 
 been brought under a state of cultivation. 
 
 A fair breeze, with the tide in our favour, carried us through the 
 sound between the islands of Islay and Jura, the broadest part of 
 which is about a mile in width, and is lined by abrupt but not very 
 high cliffs. More than a century ago, Islay received a visit from the 
 French Admiral Thurot ; and a few years later Paul Jones made a 
 descent on the island, and captured a packet which had on board a 
 Major Campbell, a native gentleman, who had just returned with an 
 independence from India, the larger portion of which he unfortunately 
 had with him in gold and jewels, of which, as may be supposed, the 
 American privateer relieved him. In later years another American 
 privateer, ' the true-blooded Yankee,' captured a considerable number 
 of merchant vessels at anchor in Port Charlotte. 
 
THE CALEDONIAN CANAL. 223 
 
 We anchored at nightfall in a deep bay at the southern end of Col- 
 onsay, called Toulgoram. A narrow strait divides that little island 
 from the still smaller one of Oronsay. 
 
 Next morning, before sailing, we pulled across the strait, which is 
 dry at low water, and visited a ruined priory of considerable extent 
 and tolerably entire. We saw also many other ruins of abbeys or 
 monasteries ; indeed, the monks must have been almost as numerous 
 as the rabbits, which we saw running about in all directions. The 
 wind still favouring us, we steered for the western end of Mull, and 
 in a short time came in sight of its lofty cliffs ; while we could see in 
 the distance astern the peaked mountains of Jura and the island of 
 Scarba, between which lies the whirlpool of Corryvrechan, a place we 
 had no desire to visit. In stormy weather, when the tides rush through 
 the passage, a regular whirlpool is formed, which would prove the de- 
 struction of any vessels attempting to pass that way. Standing on a 
 height above it, the waters are seen to leap, and bound, and tumble, 
 then whirling along as over a precipice, then dashed together with 
 inconceivable impetuosity, sometimes rising in a foaming mass to a 
 prodigious height, and then opening and forming a vast abyss, while 
 the roar of troubled waters as they strike against the rocky shore is 
 heard far and wide. 
 
 We reached lona in ample time to take a walk around the island. 
 This was the island on which the so-called St. Columba lived. It is 
 about three miles long, and one wide, and the most lofty hill is not 
 more than four hundred feet in height. The remains show that the 
 nunneries and monasteries Columba established were of a very rude 
 kind. It was looked upon as a holy island, and many kings and chiefs 
 were buried there. Macbeth was the last king of Scotland who had 
 that honour paid him. Opposite the cathedral we saw a beautiful 
 cross, carved in high relief. It had fallen down, but had been replaced 
 on a basement of granite. 
 
 The next place of interest before which we brought-up was the 
 island of Staffa. We could see in the distance the islands of Coll and 
 
224 
 
 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 Tiree. The latter, only about a mile and a half in circumference, rises 
 out of the ocean to the height of about one hundred and forty-four 
 feet. Before landing we sailed along the eastern shore, examining the 
 
 lONA. 
 
 wonderful caves and the fine colonnades which form its sides. One 
 might suppose that it was rather a work of art than thrown up by 
 Nature. The yachts were hove-to, and we pulled off to examine the 
 caves in the boats. One is known as the Clam Shell Cave, another 
 as the Herdsman's Cave, and a third is denominated the Great Colon- 
 nade and Causeway. Then there comes the Boat Cave, and Mackin- 
 
THE CALEDONIAN CANAL. 225 
 
 non's Cave, and lastly, the most magnificent of all, FiDgal's Cave. 
 Into this we at once rowed. I scarcely know how to describe it. On 
 either side are lofty columns, mostly perpendicular, and remarkably 
 
 FINGAL S CAVE. 
 
 regular, varying from two to four feet in diameter. The height of 
 this wonderful cavern is sixty- six feet near the entrance, but it de- 
 creases to twenty-two feet at the further end ; it is two hundred and 
 
 p 
 
226 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 twenty-seven feet long, and forty-two wide. At one side is a causeway 
 formed of the remains of broken columns, upon which people can walk 
 to the very end. We next pulled into what is called the Boat Cave^ 
 where columns are even more regular than in Fingal's Cave, but it is 
 much smaller. Our last visit was to Mackinnon's Cave ; its sides are 
 perfectly smooth, it is about fifty feet high, and forty-eight broad, the 
 roof being almost flat. We pulled on for two hundred and twenty- 
 four feet, until we reached a beach of pebbles at the further end, when 
 we appeared to be in a vast hall. Several places, where the tops of 
 the columns crop up, have the appearance of a tesselated pavement. 
 
 A steady breeze carried us in sight of Ardnamurchan, when, steering 
 to the east^ standing close to the sea-coast, we passed Castle Mingary, 
 the battlemented walls of which presented no opening. A few miles 
 further on we came to an anchor in the snug harbour of Tobermory. 
 It is a very picturesque village, situated at the foot of hills which 
 run round the bay. We were told that one of the ships of the In- 
 vincible Armada, the Florida, was sunk in the bay by something 
 resembling a torpedo, manufactured by a renowned witch who lived in 
 those days on Mull. She was instigated to the deed by the wife of 
 MacLean of Duart. The lady had become jealous of a fair princess, 
 who was voyaging on board the Florida, and had fallen in love with 
 her lord. It is asserted that the Spanish damsel was a daughter of 
 the King of Spain ; and having dreamed that a young gentleman of 
 engaging appearance had invited her to become his bride, was sailing 
 round the world in search of him, when, on seeing MacLean, he 
 seemed to be the creature of her fancy. 
 
 Sailing from Tobermory, bound for the western coast of Skye, we 
 passed the island of Muck, an unpleasant-sounding name. To the 
 north is the curious island of Eig, the southern side of which is per- 
 fectly flat, but in the north rises a lofty perpendicular rock, called the 
 Scuir of Eig. W^ithin it is a large cavern, which was the scene of one 
 of those atrocious acts in ' the good old days ' when might made right. 
 Two hundred Macdonalds, fugitives from a superior number of Mac- 
 
THE CALEDONIAN CANAL. 227 
 
 leods, had taken refuge in the cavern, when, unfortunately for them, 
 one of their party, having left the mark of his footsteps in the snow, 
 their place of concealment was betrayed. The Macleods filled up the 
 mouth of the cavern with wood and dried sea-weed, and setting it on 
 fire, literally smoked them to death. One of the Macdonalds being 
 connected by marriage with the Macleods, was offered permission to 
 crawl out on his hands and knees, and to brinof out four others alono: 
 with him in safety ; but having selected a friend hated by the Macleods, 
 who refused to spare the man's life, he preferred to suffer death with 
 his clansmen than to live on without them. Until quite a late period, 
 the bones of the ill-fated Macdonalds were still to be seen lying near 
 the entrance. Say what we will in favour of the Highlanders, they 
 were a fearfully savage people in those days. 
 
 The part of the Highlands amid which we were sailing was the 
 scene of many of the Pretender's adventures. Had not Prince Charles 
 been an excellent climber, he would not have escaped his enemies, 
 when they were hunting him like a hare. They nearly entrapped him 
 in one of the many rock fastnesses in which he took shelter. 
 
 We passed along these coasts a continual succession of caves and 
 wild rocks, presenting the appearance of ruined castles, Gothic arches, 
 buttresses, towers, and gateways ; others again having a curious 
 resemblance to faces, profiles, even ships under sail. 
 
 Passing the Point of Sleat, at the southern end of Skye, we sailed 
 up the wild and grand Loch Scavaig. Rising up abruptly from the 
 water are rugged mountains of a dark and gloomy aspect, — the bare 
 rocks alone are seen without a particle of vegetation. Their metallic 
 appearance arises from their being composed of a mineral called hyper- 
 sthene. On either side rose sharp peaks, one called the Shouting 
 Mountain, another the Notched Peak ; while a small island at the foot 
 of another height, called the Hill of Dispute, goes by the name of the 
 Island of the Slippery-Step. From its appearance no one would wish 
 to land there. Not a tree was to be seen. 
 
 ' The essence of savagedom ! ' cried Uncle Tom. 
 
 p 2 
 
228 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 ' Well, grand ; yes, very grand ! ' exclaimed Oliver ; ' but I'd rather 
 not live here.' 
 
 ' I shouldn't like to be on shore there during an earthquake ! ' cried 
 Dick. 'A fellow would chance to have his head broken if those 
 mountains should begin to tumble about.' 
 
 An artist who came here is said to have thrown away his pencil in 
 despair ; but it is still more difficult to give a description of the place 
 in words. Having selected a spot for anchoring, with the help of a 
 fisherman who acted as our pilot, we pulled on shore, and making our 
 way over about four hundred yards of rock by the side of a small 
 stream, we reached the dark fresh-water Loch Coruisk, round which 
 rose a circle of gigantic barren mountains of purple hue. On this side 
 the sun was shining brightly, lighting up the pointed crags, while the 
 other was thrown into the deepest shade. 
 
 ' I shouldn't like to find myself here in the evening, without know- 
 ing my way out ! ' exclaimed Dick. ' I wonder how the clouds manage 
 to get over those tall peaks.' 
 
 Dick might have wondered, for several of them are nearly three 
 thousand feet in height ; and on the topmost, called the Black Peak, 
 probably no human foot has ever trod. 
 
 ' Just give a shout, sir,' said the fisherman, who, having been on board 
 a man-of-war in his youth, spoke English. As he uttered the words 
 he gave a loud hail, the echo coming back with wonderful distinct- 
 ness. We all followed his example, and it seemed as if a thousand 
 people were all shouting together in chorus, — the sound at length 
 dying away, apparently many a mile off*. Dick then began to laugh, 
 and immediately a laugh came back, which set us all laughing, and a 
 curious chorus we had, till our jaws began to ache from over-exertion. 
 
 We then made our way out of this wild region, not sorry to get on 
 board, and to dive down into the comfortable cabin of the Dolphin, 
 where dinner was waiting us. Still, although everything was familiar 
 round us in the confined space of the yacht's cabin, so deeply im- 
 pressed on my vision was the grand wild scene outside, that I could 
 
THE CALEDONIAN CANAL. 229 
 
 not help viewing it over the sides and back of the vessel, and I never 
 for one moment lost the consciousness of where we were. 
 
 We remembered that it was at Coruisk that Bruce encountered 
 Cormack Doil. Sir Walter Scott makes him say : 
 
 ' A scene so wild, so rude as this, 
 Yet so sublime in barrenness, 
 Ne'er did my wandering footsteps press, 
 Where'er I happ'd to roam.' 
 
 At dawn next morning we left this wild bay, not without regret, 
 though Dick declared that he felt much happier when he was once 
 more on the open sea. We then sailed along the western coast of 
 Skye, looking into many other places (which, if not so wild and grand, 
 were highly picturesque), until we reached Dunvegan Loch ; and 
 making our way amid several small islands, we came to an anchor a 
 short distance from the castle, and took to the boat. The castle stands 
 on a rock projecting into the water, protected by a stream on one side 
 and a moat on the other, and before conical shot were invented must 
 have been a very strong place. Though it retains much of its ancient 
 and imposing appearance, it is still in perfect repair, and is of great 
 extent. It belongs to Macleod of Macleod, whose father and grand- 
 father expended large sums in making it one of the most comfortable 
 residences in the Western Highlands. On the side next the sea is 
 a low wall, pierced with embrasures, while a handsome centre build- 
 ing is also surmounted by battlements. There are two towers, one of 
 which the steward, who politely showed us over the castle, said was 
 built in the ninth century, and the other was added in the thirteenth. 
 Doctor Johnson paid this castle a visit, and was hospitably received 
 by the laird. 
 
 We were shown the drinking-horn of Sir Roderick Macleod, an 
 ancestor of the family, and the remains of a ' fairy flag,' made of stout 
 yellow silk, which used to be unfurled when the tide of battle was 
 turning against the Macleods, and which always had the effect of again 
 turning it in their favour. 
 
230 
 
 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 Again getting under weigh, we sailed round the northern end of 
 Skye, up the Sound of Raasay, between the small island of that name 
 and Skye, to Portree. It stands on the end of a point of land, far up 
 a deep harbour, and is a picturesque-looking place. 
 
 DUNVEGAN CASTLE. 
 
 Here we had a long discussion as to our future proceedings. It was 
 finally settled that Uncle Tom should sail round the north of Scotland 
 in the Dolphin, while we were to go south again, and through the 
 Caledonian Canal, waiting for him off Fort George, at the mouth of 
 the Moray Firth. 
 
THE CALEDONIAN CANAL, 231 
 
 Early in the morning we sailed with the Dolphin, to accompany her 
 as far as the Island of Rona, to the north of Raasay, where we looked 
 into a curious little loch, at the head of which is a farm-house. The 
 owner — as is the case with most people residing on that shore — had 
 been a seafaring man. He had gone away to Skye, and was expected 
 back by his loving wife, when a furious gale arose. To light him on 
 his way, she had been accustomed to place a large lamp in the window 
 of the cottage, which looked down on the loch. On that night she 
 trimmed it with double care. In vain, however, she sat and watched ; 
 hour after hour passed by as she waited, expecting to hear her husband's 
 cheerful voice as he came on shore, calling out to her amid the howling 
 storm ; but in vain she watched. Day dawned, and the little vessel 
 had not reached her accustomed moorings. The next night her lamp 
 was lighted as usual. When the storm abated, tidings came that 
 portions of a wrecked vessel had been picked up on the shore ; but she 
 hoped against hope that it might not be her husband's craft. Still, 
 though he came not, she lighted the lamp. Night after night, and 
 month after month, that bright light streamed forth from the solitary 
 cottage on the beach ; and many a storm-tossed vessel owed its safety 
 to that unpretending beacon. At length the Scottish Commissioners 
 of Lighthouses heard of this volunteer liojhthouse. An annual sum of 
 money was voted for its support, and the widow received a lamp with 
 reflectors, with a supply of oil to keep her lamp burning. The com- 
 missioners paid her and her family a visit ; and, though years have 
 passed, that lamp burns as brightly as ever. 
 
 As papa wished Oliver to see the Caledonian Canal, he had returned 
 on board the Lively. We now parted from the Dolphin, saluting each 
 other with loud cheers ; and while she sailed northward, with the 
 wind on the beam, we steered south through the broad passage which 
 separates Raasay from the mainland. 
 
 ' I'll tell you all about the northern coast and John o' Groat's House ; 
 and you shall give me an account of the canal, though I don't envy 
 you,' shouted Jack, as we parted. 
 
232 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 The wind sometimes headed us, but we saw more of the coast until, 
 passing Applecross, we reached the Island of Seal pa. We then had 
 a fair wind past Loch Carron to Loch Alsh, which lies between one 
 end of Skye and the mainland. Steering due east, we ran through it, 
 and then again had to haul up to pass through the narrow channel 
 which separates the south end of Skye from the main. 
 
 Hauling our wind, we stood through a very narrow passage, and 
 entered Sleat Sound, a broad expanse, when once more we had Eig in 
 sight on our starboard bow, and passed the entrance to numerous 
 lochs, many of them, like Loch Hourn and Loch Nevish, between lofty 
 mountains. Passing Muck and then Ardnamurchan on our port side, 
 we entered Loch Sunart. Running by Tobermory with the wind 
 nearly aft, we entered the Sound of Mull, which carried us into Loch 
 Linnhe, opposite the Island of Lismore. Just opposite to us, on the 
 south end of the island, we saw Auchindown Castle, a lofty square 
 building on the top of a rock rising out of the sea, which was once in 
 possession of the Bishops of Argyle and the Isles, but which is much 
 more like a castle than an episcopal residence. 
 
 Standing on, with the wind on our port beam, we ran up Loch 
 Linnhe, passing the entrance to Loch Leven, near to which is the 
 Pass of Glencoe, where, as every one knows, Mac Ian, the chief of the 
 Macdonalds of Glencoe, with a number of his family and followers, 
 was treacherously murdered by Campbell of Glen Lyon, and a party 
 of military under his command. 
 
 It was dark when we reached Fort William, at the head of Loch 
 Linnhe, though the water still ran a long way, turning to the left, 
 and forming Loch Eil. This loch gives its name to a branch of the 
 Camerons, to which belonged one of the most redoubtable opponents 
 of Cromwell in the Highlands — Sir Ewan Cameron. In consequence, 
 the Protector built a fort at Inverloch, which in King William's reign 
 was greatly enlarged, receiving the name of Fort William. 
 
 Beyond the fort to the eastward we saw Ben Nevis, while to the 
 north was the entrance to the Caledonian Canal. Not far off from 
 
THE CALEDONIAN CANAL. 233 
 
 Loch^Eil is Loch Shiel, at the head of which is the spot where, on the 
 19th of August, 1745, Prince Charles Edward unfurled his standard, 
 when he made the audacious attempt to win the crown which his 
 
 LOCH LEVEN. 
 
 ancestor had forfeited. On that occasion the then Lord of Lochiel 
 headed seven hundred of the clan Camerons, who with three hundred 
 of the Macdonnells formed the chief part of the hapless band. Of 
 course, they thought themselves very fine fellows, and were so, in one 
 
234 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 sense, though terribly mistaken ; and had they succeeded they would 
 have brought ruin and misery on the country. A monument was 
 erected on the spot, some years ago, by one of the Macdonnells, and a 
 bronze tablet on it records what took place. 
 
 As soon as daylight broke we went on shore, and walked to the old 
 castle of Inverlochy. It stands above the river, and consists of four 
 large round towers connected by high walls, forming an extensive 
 quadrangle. The greater part is entire ; indeed, the walls being ten 
 feet thick are calculated to stand for ages. A moat surrounds the 
 walls. The principal entrance is on the south-east side, and directly 
 opposite it is a sally-port. Above the gateway was a guard-room, 
 defended by iron gates and a heavy portcullis. 
 
 Below its frowning towers, the Marquis of Montrose defeated the 
 Duke of Argyle, in the year 1645. It w^as just when the first rays of 
 the sun shot athwart Ben Nevis, that, having led his men across 
 pathless wilds covered deep with snow, he pounced down on the 
 astonished Campbells, who were driven back in confusion, when 
 numbers were slaughtered or drowned in ^the waters of Loch Eil. 
 Of the latter, fifteen hundred men fell ; while only three of Montrose's 
 soldiers were killed, and one officer wounded. 
 
 As soon as we got back we made sail ; and no other vessel im- 
 peding us, we entered the basin of Bannavie, from which a series 
 of eight locks, called Neptune's Staircase, raised us to the level of 
 Loch Lochy. It was rather tiresome, though at the same time 
 interesting work, to see the yacht lifted gradually up step by step, 
 while the water rushed down from the lock above to raise that on 
 which we floated to its own level. Whoever first thought of such a 
 contrivance deserves great credit. 
 
 As the wind was perfectly fair, we sailed along the canal for about 
 eight miles without any impediment. It is deep and broad, and 
 would allow a very much larger vessel than our little yacht to pass 
 through it. It was on the banks of the river Lochy that a body of 
 King George^s soldiers first encountered the Macdonnells of Glen- 
 
THE CALEDONIAN CANAL. 235 
 
 garry, who were up in arms for Charles Edward, when the former, 
 being greatly overpowered, had to yield themselves prisoners. 
 
 Soon after entering the lake, we came off the house of Achnacarry, 
 the mansion of Lochiel, on the northern side. The mountains on the 
 south side extended nearly the whole distance of the lake without 
 any break, while those on the other are rent by numerous gullies. 
 The ground, though covered with heather, had few trees to ornament 
 it. We were quite sorry when, in about an hour and a half, we had 
 again to enter the canal, which quickly carried us into the small, 
 pretty Loch Oich. We passed two or three islets decked with trees, 
 which greatly embellish them. On the north side the mountains of 
 Glengarry shot up in a succession of high and bold peaks. Below 
 them is the castle of Invergarry, standing on a rock overlooking the 
 waters of the loch. 
 
 The last Glengarry who claimed to be the Lord of the Isles, instead 
 of Lord Macdonald of Sleat, resided here, and did his utmost to keep 
 up the recollection of former days by his mode of life. On his death 
 his property was bought by Lord Ward. 
 
 We passed a curious monument raised by the last Glengarry over 
 what is known as the 'W^ell of the Seven Heads.' It consists of a 
 pyramid, with seven human heads carved in stone placed on the 
 summit. The story is that two sons of Keppoch, a branch of the 
 Macdonalds, having been sent to be educated in France, their affairs 
 were managed by seven brothers, who, on the return of the young 
 men, murdered them, in order that they might continue in possession 
 of their property. The old family bard, discovering the bloody act, 
 applied to the Glengarry of those days for assistance; and having 
 been furnished with a body of men, caught the assassins, and cut off 
 their heads, which, after having washed in the spring, he presented to 
 the noble chief in Glengarry Castle. 
 
 Just before leaving Loch Oich we passed Aberchalder, an un- 
 pretending-looking house, where the forces of Prince Charles assembled 
 before crossing Corryarrick. We soon reached Fort Augustus, when 
 
236 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 we descended by some locks into Loch Ness, where, on account of the 
 depth of water, we had to anchor close to the shore, with warps made 
 fast to some trees, to prevent our drifting away. As there was 
 nothing to see at Fort Augustus, the garrison having been removed, 
 we did not go on shore. 
 
 At an early hour the next morning we got under weigh, and glided 
 down Loch Ness, which is twenty-four miles long, and about a mile 
 and a quarter broad, although it is narrower in some places. The 
 depth is very great, in some parts one hundred and thirty fathoms. 
 In consequence of this the water seldom freezes in the loch. The 
 rugged and heath-covered mountains rise on either side to the height 
 of about a thousand feet; and frequently we saw growing on them 
 forests of oak, ash, elm, and other trees, with a thick underwood of 
 hazel and holly intermingled with a profusion of wild roses. 
 
 About midway we passed the lofty dome of Mealfourvournie, rising 
 in solitary grandeur to the height of upwards of four thousand feet. 
 Here there were tracts of cultivated ground ; and in the openings of 
 Glen Urquhart and Glenmoriston we came in sight of fields and 
 substantial-looking houses. A few miles further we passed under a 
 magnificent precipice crowned by pines. Not far distant we came to 
 the House of Foyers, where we landed and hurried up the glen to the 
 falls. We got down to the bottom of the perpendicular cliffs, over 
 which we could see a large volume of water rushing with headlong 
 force and speed, bubbling, foaming, and roaring into the channel 
 which leads to the loch. Above us was a bridge thrown across the 
 chasm, while the mountain sides were clothed with graceful birch and 
 other trees. We had brought a cop}^ of Burns, whose lines on the 
 subject begin: 
 
 ' Among the heathy hills and ragged woods 
 The roaring Foyers pours his mossy floods; 
 Till full he dashes on the rocky mounds, 
 Where through a shapeless breach his stream resounds,' 
 
 which describe the falls far better than I can do. 
 
THE CALEDONIAN CANAL. 237 
 
 Hurrying back, we continued our voyage. We passed the mouth 
 of the deep defiled Inverfarigaig, with the black rock resembling a 
 ruin above it, and further on Urquhart Castle, built on a detached 
 rock overlooking the loch, the most conspicuous object being a strong 
 square keep, surmounted by four turrets. The banks of the loch now 
 appeared far more cultivated than at the other end. Sailing through 
 little Loch Dochfour, we again entered the canal, which runs down 
 into Loch Beauly ; while the river Ness, which we had on our right 
 side, falls into the Moray Firth, close to Inverness, which stands on a 
 plain about a mile off. 
 
 It was curious to be looking from the deck of our yacht down on 
 the loch so far below us, while we could see on either side of the 
 town the far-famed battlefield of Culloden, where Prince Charles and 
 his hapless followers were so signally defeated by the Duke of 
 Cumberland. 
 
 Descending the locks at Muirtown, we could see in the far distance, 
 guarding the entrance to the upper part of the mouth of the Moray 
 Firth, the walls of Fort George extending out into the blue water. 
 On reaching the ocean level, we at once made sail, standing for 
 Inverness. By the time we dropped our anchor it was dark, so that 
 we did not go on shore until the following morning. We then took a 
 ramble round the town. 
 
 It stands on both sides of the river, across which a handsome stone 
 bridge is thrown, but the finer portion is on the east side. The 
 monasteries and churches were mostly knocked to pieces by Oliver 
 Cromwell ; but a good many fine buildings have been erected of late 
 years, one of the most important of which is the Academy. 
 
 Inverness has always been a place of importance, and from its 
 situation has a considerable trade. It was looked upon also as the 
 capital of the north of Scotland. The inhabitants were staunch 
 Jacobites, and very much inclined to be lawless, though at the present 
 day they are as peaceably disposed as any in the country. Expecting 
 to encounter stalwart Highlanders in kilts, with dirks by their sides^ 
 
238 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 we were disappointed to meet only staid-looking burghers and 
 labouring men, in the ordinary dress of the present day. 
 
 There was a castle, built by Cromwell to overawe the turbulent 
 inhabitants, but it was pulled down, and the inhabitants had erected 
 many of their houses with the materials. We, however, took a walk 
 over the ramparts, which still remain. Here Queen Mary had her 
 quarters for some time, protected by the clansmen of Frazer, Mackenzie, 
 Munroe, and others, who kept the garrison of the castle in awe. 
 
 Far more interesting is an account we obtained of the Caledonian 
 Canal, which may truly be said to make an island of Sutherland, 
 Caithness, Cromart}^ Rosshire, and a part of Inverness. The canal 
 was designed by Watt, as far back as 1773; but the present work 
 was not commenced until the year 1804, when Telford was directed 
 to make a report on the subject. By his plan the canal was to be 
 one hundred and ten feet wide at the surface and fifty feet at the 
 bottom, and the depth of water twenty feet ; so that a thii*ty-two gun 
 frigate of that day, fully equipped and laden with stores, could pass 
 through it. The works, however, were carried out on more moderate 
 proportions. There are twenty-eight locks, each one hundred and 
 seventy feet long and forty feet wide, with an average lift of eight 
 feet. Some of the lock gates are of timber, and others are of cast- 
 iron, sheathed with pine planking. The summit level is in Loch 
 Oich, into which pour a number of streams, supplying an abundance 
 of water for both sides. It stands exactly one hundred feet above 
 high-water mark at Inverness. The extreme length from sea to sea 
 is sixty and a half miles ; and so direct is the continuity of the lakes 
 that a line drawn across from point to point would only exceed the 
 distance by rather more than three miles. There are twenty -two 
 miles of canal cutting, and thirty-eight and a half miles of lake water 
 is made available for the canal. 
 
 We found passing through the lakes the pleasantest part of the 
 voyage. We might have been many days doing the distance, had we 
 not had a favourable breeze. The wind changed directly after we 
 
THE CALEDONIAN CANAL. 239 
 
 reached Inverness, of which we were very glad, as it gave us some 
 hopes of soon meeting the Dolphin, which we feared must have been 
 detained off John o'Groat's House. 
 
 We made several trips down to Fort George, to look out for the 
 Dolphin. At length one evening, having stood further down the 
 Firth and looking into Cromarty, made classic by having been the 
 scene of many of Hugh Miller's rambles, we caught sight of a small 
 white sail, shining brightly in the rays of the setting sun. Papa, 
 taking the glass, looked steadily at her, and then, to our great 
 satisfaction, declared his belief that she was the Dolphin. We 
 immediately tacked towards her, and in a short time heard Uncle 
 Tom's cheerful hail across the water. We immediately hove to, and 
 the Dolphin doing the same, papa and I pulled on board her. They 
 were in good spirits, although they had begun to think that they 
 should never get round Duncansby Head, which is close to John 
 o'Groat's House, until the wind drawing once more from the west- 
 ward, they had reached Wick, the great resort of fishing vessels. 
 After this they had a dead beat until they sighted Tarbet-ness 
 Lighthouse, on the northern side of the Moray Firth. Their further 
 adventures they kept for another day. 
 
 'I am glad to get back again to you,' exclaimed Dick; 'it's dull 
 work sailing all alone. I confess that I sometimes thought you 
 would never get through overland ; for by no other way, it seems to 
 me, could you have come, except along those little trout ponds I saw 
 marked on the map.' 
 
 Dick was not a little astonished when we told him the size of the 
 canal and its locks, and that a vessel very much larger than the 
 Dolphin could have got' through with equal ease. 
 
 W^e had brought an abundance of fresh provisions for both yachts, 
 and were glad to find that Uncle Tom did not wish to go to Inverness ; 
 and we accordingly shaped our course for Kinnaird's Head, not 
 intending to touch at any place on the Scotch coast until we reached 
 Aberdeen. 
 
CHAPTEK X. 
 
 ANOTHER WRECK. 
 
 S we sailed down the Moray Firth with a northerly wind, 
 which enabled us to stand close in shore, the water being 
 perfectly smooth, we passed numerous headlands, the names 
 of which we learned from the chart. After the mountainous 
 scenery amid which we had been sailing, the shore looked 
 flat and uninteresting. 
 I had thus plenty of time to attend to little Nat, who was fast 
 becoming very dear to all of us. We looked forward with regret to 
 the time when he might be sent away to join his friends, should they 
 be found. He had learned to walk the deck in true nautical style ; 
 and in his sailor's suit, with his broad-brimmed straw hat, he looked 
 every inch a young seaman. He was generally in capital spirits, 
 apparently forgetting his loss ; but if any allusion brought back to his 
 remembrance his father, mother, or Aunt Fanny, his brothers and 
 sisters, the tears sprang to his eyes, and he looked grave and sad. 
 Happily, however, a cheerful word brought him back to his usual 
 mood, and he became as merry as ever. 
 
 'Do you know, Harry,' he said to me one day, 'I intend to be a 
 sailor. I should like to have just such a vessel as this, and cruise 
 about the world that you tell me is round, though I cannot make it 
 out ; still, as you say so, I am sure it is.' 
 
ANOTHER WRECK, 241 
 
 I pointed to the top-gallant sails of a vessel on which the sun was 
 shining brightly, — 'ISow, watch that sail, and in a short time you 
 will see her topsails, and then her courses, and then the hull. If the 
 world was not round, we should see them all at once, just as clearly 
 as we now see the top-gallant sails.' 
 
 As I spoke I took up a large ball of spun yarn, and placing a 
 splinter on it, I advanced the piece of wood gradually until he saw the 
 whole of it. ' Now, this splinter represents that ship,' I said, pointing 
 to it. ' As we also are moving towards her, we shall soon see all her 
 sails and her hull.' 
 
 !Nat kept watching the ship with intense interest ; and although 
 summoned to luncheon, he begged that he might have something 
 brought up to him, so that he could watch her hull come in sight. 
 This in a short time happened, when he clapped his hands and 
 shouted, — 
 
 Now I know that the world is round ; but I thought it was so 
 very big it could make no difference.' 
 
 ' Well,' exclaimed Dick, who had been listening to my remark, 
 ' I never knew before how it was people guessed that the world was 
 round. I saw ships' sails popping up out of the ocean, but had not 
 any idea how it was, and did not like to ask.' 
 
 ' There you showed your want of wisdom,' observed papa ; ' you 
 should have tried to think the matter out, or inquired.' 
 
 The wind continued to favour us, drawing gradually to the west- 
 ward. We sighted a red light on Kinnaird's Head, which, as we got 
 more to the eastward, changed to a bright colour. Beyond it was 
 Fraserburgh. By hauling our wind we were able to steer for Rathay 
 Head. Near it we caught sight of Inverugie Castle. We gave a 
 wide berth to the head, from which a dangerous reef of rocks run 
 out ; for though the ocean was tolerably calm, we could see the water 
 breaking over them. 
 
 We were now hoping, as the wind was off shore, to stand due 
 south for Aberdeen, which we were all anxious to see. We had 
 
 Q 
 
242 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 sighted Slaines Castle, standing out solitary and grand on the very 
 edge of the crag, when the wind suddenly backed round to the 
 southward, and in a short time began to blow very hard. Dark 
 clouds, which had been gathering thickly in the horizon to the 
 south-east, came careering on over the blue sky. In spite of the 
 heavy sea which was getting up, we held our course, standing away 
 from the land, intending to tack again when we could to fetch 
 Aberdeen. By the way the Dolphin was tumbling about I could 
 readily understand how we must have appeared to her. Dick began 
 to show signs of being far from happy, and Nat's cheerfulness 
 entirely left him. Papa sent him down below, and told him to 
 turn in. Dick, however, braved it out, but grew more and more 
 yellow and woebegone. 
 
 ' This won^t do,' observed papa ; ' it's fortunate that we have a port 
 under our lee. Up helm, ease away the main sheet. We'll let the 
 Dolphin know that we are running for Peterhead." 
 
 The Dolphin followed our example ; and away we went, careering 
 on before the fast-rising seas. Very glad we were that we had so 
 fine a harbour to run for. The gale blew harder and harder, and 
 the waves looked as if every instant they would engulf us ; for we 
 were now exposed to the whole roll of the German Ocean. On sailing 
 in we were struck by the remarkable appearance of the flesh-coloured 
 pinkish rocks, whose needle-shaped points rose up out of the water. 
 We had, however, little time to notice them, ere rushing by we 
 brought up in the harbour of Peterhead. Most thankfully we 
 dropped our anchor and furled our sails. 
 
 Peterhead appeared to be a bustling place. A number of merchant 
 vessels, coasters, and fishing-boats were at anchor. As the days were 
 long, we hoped the gale would blow itself out before the next morning. 
 Directly we had dined we set off on foot to visit a curious cavern 
 called the ' Bullers of Buchan.' After walking for about two hours 
 we found ourselves on the top of a cliff", from whence we looked down 
 into an immense cauldron some fifty feet in diameter, open at the 
 
ANOTHER WRECK. 243 
 
 bottom to the sea, which was rushinor in, and whirlings round and 
 round in foaming masses. We went round it, between the cauldron 
 and the sea, where the ledge, with the foaming whirlpool on one side 
 and the perpendicular cliffs on the other, was sufficiently narrow to 
 make us feel the necessity of keeping our eyes open. On the west 
 side, or the furthest from the ocean, we observed that the water 
 rushed under an arch. A person told us that in fine weather a boat 
 could pass under this arch, though at present one would have been 
 immediately dashed to pieces. The whole cliff was completely per- 
 forated by caverns. ' BuUer,' I should have said, means the ' boiler.' 
 Having watched it until our ears were wellnigh deafened by the 
 roar, and our eyes dizzy from gazing at the seething whirlpool, we 
 hastened on to get a sight of Slaines Castle, which we had seen from 
 the sea. As we viewed it from a distance, the walls appeared to be 
 a continuation of the cliff on the summit of which it stands. It is a 
 large quadrangular building, without a tree in the neighbourhood. 
 It had a somewhat gloomy aspect under the dark sky. when we saw it. 
 The property belonged, till lately, to the Earl of Errol, whose nearest 
 neighbour to the eastward was, as Dick said, ' Hamlet's Ghost,' or the 
 Castle of Elsinore, which stands on the shores of the Skagerack. 
 
 We had spent a longer time in visiting the castle than we had 
 intended, and had only got a short distance back when we were 
 overtaken by the gloom of evening. The wind was blowing dead 
 on shore, and a tremendous sea running. We were casting our eyes 
 over the German Ocean, when we saw what we took to be a brig, 
 with her mainmast gone, and several of her sails blown away, 
 evidently steering for Peterhead. Unable to keep close to the wind, 
 she was drifting every instant nearer and nearer the shore. 
 
 ' I fear she^U not weather that point,' observed papa ; ' and if she 
 comes on shore, there'll be little cha-nce for any of her people, as no 
 lifeboat could get near her.' 
 
 We had passed a Coastguard station a little way to the northward. 
 Uncle Tom volunteered to hurry on, and I accompanied him — in case 
 
 Q 1 
 
244 
 
 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 the people there should not have observed the brig — to give them 
 notice of the danger she was in ; that, should she strike, they might 
 be ready to render assistance with their rocket apparatus. 
 
 It was now quite dark, and we had great difficulty in making our 
 way ; there was a risk of finding ourselves at the edge of some chasm, 
 down which we might fall. The distance seemed very long, and I 
 thought we must have missed the Coastguard station, which was 
 situated at the edge of the cliffs. At length, however, we saw a light 
 gleaming from a window, and arrived at the wall which enclosed the 
 house where the lieutenant and his men lived. We found them on 
 the alert. Two had just gone off for some horses to drag the waggon 
 
 in which the rocket apparatus was to 
 be carried, as one of the men stationed 
 to the southward had seen the brig and 
 reported her danger. 
 
 In the waggon were already placed 
 the rocket tube, with three rocket lines, 
 several rockets, three spars to form a 
 triangle, an anchor, lantern, spades, and 
 pickaxes, some signal rockets, a rope 
 ladder, and a sling life-buoy, with what 
 are called ' petticoat breeches ' fastened 
 to it, in which a person can be placed. 
 There were also a strong hawser and a 
 whip or fine rope, by which the sling 
 life-buoy was to be drawn backwards 
 and forwards from the wreck to the 
 shore. By the time these were got into the waggon a couple of horses 
 had arrived, and a party of men immediately set off with the waggon. 
 The lieutenant conducted us back by the way we had come ; as he 
 knew every inch of the ground, we had no fear now of falling over 
 the cliff. We had not gone far before we saw a rocket thrown up 
 about a mile to the southward. 
 
 THE BREECHES BUOY. 
 
ANOTHER WRECK. 245 
 
 ' It is as I feared,' said the lieutenant ; ' the brig has gone ashore, 
 and that rocket, fired by one of my men, shows the spot where she 
 has struck. There is no time to lose, for in all probability she will 
 not hold together long.' 
 
 The signal made us hasten on even faster than before. 
 
 ' There she is ! there she is ! ' cried the lieutenant, just as we 
 reached the summit of a cliff. 
 
 We could see the brig about a hundred fathoms off on the rocks, 
 the sea making a fearful breach over her. There was light sufficient 
 to enable us to see that the foremast was still standing:. 
 
 We found that papa and the rest of our party had arrived at the 
 spot, and were watching her, but of course utterly unable to afford 
 any assistance. It would have been a sad thing to watch her, had 
 we not known that we should soon have the means of saving the 
 poor people. Scarcely a minute had passed when a shout gave us 
 notice that the waggon had arrived. We all instantly hurried to, her 
 to assist. While the men handled the heavier articles, we carried 
 the lighter ones. Each man knew exactly what he was to do. The 
 lines, I should have said, were in boxes, two of which were carried 
 to the cliff; the tube was then fixed, and the line fastened to it. It 
 was an anxious moment. Would the line pass over the vessel? 
 would the crew be able to secure it ? I could not help fearing that the 
 rocket might strike the vessel, and perhaps kill some one on board ; 
 but the lieutenant took very good care to avoid that, by giving the 
 tube sufficient elevation. 
 
 ' Now, lads, stand by ! ' he sang out. 
 
 The men tilted the box in which the line was secured, so that it 
 might run out freely. The officer now fired ; and the rocket, rising 
 in the air, made a grand curve of light, which we watched with 
 intense interest until we saw it fall completely over the vessel. We 
 had now to ascertain whether the men on board had secured it. No 
 signal came, and of course we could not venture to haul in on the 
 line, lest we might draw it back. 
 
246 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 ' They probably have no blue light or gun on board, or any other 
 means of making a signal,' observed the lieutenant. 
 
 Scarcely, however, had he spoken, before a faint light from a 
 lantern was shown in the rigging. 
 
 ' All right,' he exclaimed : ' they have secured the line ; make it 
 fast to the warp.' 
 
 Upon this, one of the Coastguards, going a short distance from the 
 rest of us, exhibited a lantern with a red light, and presently we 
 found that the whip — or double line — with a tailed block was being 
 hauled off by the men on the wreck. 
 
 We had now to wait again until once more the lantern was shown 
 on board. This was a signal to the Coastguard to secure the end of 
 the hawser to one part of the double line or whip, when all hands 
 taking hold of the latter, we hauled off the hawser to the wreck. 
 The tailed block had probably been secured to the mast ; and as long 
 as that held we had every hope of establishing a communication. 
 
 If we felt anxious, how much more so must the poor fellows on the 
 brig, which might at any moment be knocked to pieces, and they be 
 sent struggling hopelessly in the foaming seas ! We knew from the 
 length of the whip that we must haul out the hawser almost to its 
 end. Soon after we had done so another signal was made, which 
 implied that the men had secured it round the mast. We then 
 immediately hauled away on the hawser until we had got it stretched 
 and secured to the anchor, which had been imbedded in the earth 
 some way back from the cliff. It was necessary, however, not to get 
 it too taut, as the vessel was moved by the seas, and might either 
 break it, or tear the anchor out of the ground. This done, the ' buoy 
 with the breeches' was secured to a block, adjusted to the hawser, 
 and was immediately hauled off. 
 
 I should have said that a triangle, formed of three small spars, over 
 which the hawser passed, was fixed in the ground nearest to the edge 
 of the cliff; and now, to our infinite satisfaction, we had a perfect 
 communication with the wreck. Still we had to watch for another 
 
ANOTHER WRECK, .247 
 
 signal, to give us notice that a person had bean placed in it. Again 
 the light appeared. We hauled away on the warp. 
 
 ' Handsomely, handsomely ! ' sung out the lieutenant, as the men 
 were hauling in rather fast on the line. 
 
 We eagerly watched ; when at last through the gloom we saw the 
 life-buoy appear, and discovered that a person was in it. With 
 anxious haste the lieutenant and two of his men stepped forward, 
 and grasping the buoy and its burden, gently lifted out the occupant. 
 
 ' My arm is broken, sir ; take care, please.' 
 
 We found that it was the mate of the vessel who spoke ; he was 
 the first sent on shore. We carried him up to the waggon, where he 
 could be sheltered from the wind by the awning which covered it. 
 While Uncle Tom remained with him, we hastened back to the cliff. 
 
 By this time another person had arrived — a young boy — who was 
 also somewhat hurt. He was almost fainting from pain and terror ; 
 his state was such that he could only utter the words, ' Make haste ! 
 make haste ! ' 
 
 There was good reason for this, for we could judge by the way the 
 hawser was moved that the vessel was rolling more and more ; and 
 the men were compelled to slacken it out every now and then. It 
 may be supposed no time was lost. Three men were now successfully 
 brought on shore. 
 
 We were going to carry the boy to the waggon, but he intreated 
 to remain. The first of the men who arrived told us the reason. He 
 was the captain's son. The captain himself would not leave the 
 vessel until the last. Two of their number had been washed over- 
 board, the captain alone now remained. We could hear the boy 
 crying out every now and then, ' Make haste ! make haste ! ' 
 
 Once more the life-buoy was hauled off; every possible speed was 
 made. I don't think I ever before felt so intensely anxious ; for I 
 could sympathise with the poor boy whose father was still in fearful 
 danger. Each moment it seemed as if the hawser would be carried 
 away. Again the light was shown, and seemed to be advancing 
 
248 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 towards us. The Coastguard hauled away with all their might, 
 helped by two of the rescued crew, while the lieutenant and the rest 
 stood by ready to take hold of the captain. The light drew nearer 
 and nearer. ' Make haste ! make haste ! ' again cried the boy. When 
 at length he saw his father safe, in spite of his hurts, rising up from 
 the ground, he rushed forward and threw his arms round his neck. 
 
 Scarcely had the captain's feet touched the ground than the hawser 
 slackened, a loud rending sound was borne to our ears by the wind, 
 and we knew that some huge billow had dashed the brig to pieces. 
 Indeed, I fancied I saw fragments tossing about in the seething waves 
 which dashed up against the cliffs. 
 
 All felt that they had done their duty, and that the lives of their 
 fellow- creatures had been saved by their promptitude, and the skill 
 with which the operations had been carried out. The Coastguard 
 men, having hauled in the hawser until the mast was brought close 
 under the cliff, the rocket apparatus was returned to the waggon, in 
 which also the mate and the captain's son were placed, and we then 
 all set off to the Coastguard station. 
 
 The lieutenant invited us to remain at his cottage until the 
 morning. We gladly accepted his offer ; and his wife, who was a 
 very nice person, treated us in the kindest manner, and produced a 
 variety of garments, which we put on while our wet clothes were 
 drying. Uncle Tom had a lady's cloak over his shoulders. Dick 
 was dressed in an old uniform coat, and papa got into a pea-jacket. 
 
 The shipwrecked crew were looked after by the Coastguard men, 
 and the lieutenant and his wife attended to the mate and the boy ; 
 while the master of the vessel had a room to himself, beinof com- 
 pletely knocked up, and as soon as he had had some supper went 
 to bed, and happily was soon fast asleep. 
 
 Papa and the lieutenant found that they had many mutual acquaint- 
 ances, and they sat spinning yarns before the fire — for, although 
 summer, a fire was very pleasant — until late in the night. The 
 lieutenant described to us the gallant way in which the lifeboats of 
 
ANOTHER WRECK. 249 
 
 two neighbouring stations had gone out on several occasions to rescue 
 the crews of vessels either on the rocks or sand-banks at the mouth 
 of the Moray Frith. 
 
 One hears but little of the wreck of coasters ; but were it not for 
 the assistance of lifeboats, in most instances the crews, consisting of 
 three to six men, would be lost; as the vessels, being often old and 
 rotten, quickly break up, and being low, the seas wash completely 
 over them. Not long ago a boat was discovered by one of the Coast- 
 guard men on the beach ; and on hurrying towards her, he found a 
 poor fellow lying on the sand almost exhausted. On carrying him to 
 a neighbouring fisherman's cottage, he recovered ; and he then stated 
 that he belonged to a large barque which had gone on the sands ; that 
 he and twelve other men had taken to their boat, but that she had 
 capsized, and that all hands, with the exception of himself, had been 
 drowned ; that he had swum on shore, though he could scarcely tell 
 how he had managed to reach it. He said that there were four men 
 still on board. On this the Coastguard men hastened to the nearest 
 lifeboat station, when the boat was immediately manned and pushed 
 off for the wreck, the position of which the seaman had described, 
 though as it was night she could not be seen. Away the gallant crew 
 pulled through tremendous seas, which were rolling in on the coast. 
 Having gained an offing, they made sail, and steered for the wreck, 
 which at length was discovered with two of her masts gone, while the 
 crew were clinging to the rigging of the remaining mast, which 
 threatened every instant to follow the others. The lifeboat, showing 
 a light, indicated to the poor fellows on the wreck that help was near. 
 After considerable difficulty they got up under her lee, and were able 
 to heave a rope on board. Getting a stronger warp, they hauled up 
 near enough to enable two of the men to jump on board. The third 
 slipped, and fell into the water, running a fearful risk of being 
 crushed ; but, happily, he also was got into the boat. As is often the 
 case, the cabin-boy was the last left. It was a trying thing to see the 
 poor little fellow clinging to the rigging, but unable to help himself. 
 
250 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 ' We can't let him perish ! ' cried one of the lifeboat men ; and at the 
 risk of his own life, the boat being hauled up to the wreck, he sprang 
 into the rigging, and with his knife cut the lashings by which the 
 poor boy was held. A crashing sound was heard, the weather 
 shrouds and stays were giving way. In another instant the mast 
 would fall, and not only the gallant fellow and his charge, but all in 
 the lifeboat, would perish. 
 
 ' Leap, man ! leap ! ' shouted the crew, ready to shove off, and 
 watching the tottering mast with anxious gaze ; but even though 
 they all knew the fearful risk they incurred by remaining, they 
 would not desert their companion or the lad he had gone to save. 
 The gallant boatman, seizing the boy in his arms, slid down the 
 rigging and sprang from the chains into the boat, where he was 
 caught by the outstretched arms of his companions. The next 
 moment the boat was many fathoms from the wreck, when down 
 came the mast on the very spot where she had been floating, the cap 
 of her topmast almost striking her bow. Still the crew had a heavy 
 struggle to reach the shore, for the gale came down with greater force 
 than ever, and the hungry seas seemed ready to engulf her ; but the 
 shipwrecked men were landed in safety. Not until they met their 
 companion did they learn that he and they were the sole survivors 
 of the crew. 
 
 The lieutenant told the tale so graphically that I have tried to put 
 it down in his own words. He related many other similar anecdotes ; 
 and it was not until the night was far spent that we dropped off to 
 sleep in our chairs. 
 
 At daybreak, as the rain had ceased, and the wind had somewhat 
 gone down, we started for Peterhead, papa promising to send a 
 conveyance for the mate and the boy, that they might be carried to 
 the hospital. 
 
 Peterhead is a substantial-looking seaport town, the houses being 
 mostly built of granite from quarries near. It stands on the south 
 side of the mouth of the river Ugie, and has two harbours^ one on 
 
ANOTHER WRECK, 253 
 
 the north and the other on the south side of the peninsula. The 
 latter, which is the oldest, was formed in the year 1773, from plans 
 by Mr. Smeaton^ the great engineer of those days ; and the north 
 harbour in 1818, from those by Mr. Telford. Piers run out from the 
 shore, which is lined by fine quays. 
 
 We had to wait the whole day before proceeding on our voyage, 
 so we had time to see a great deal of the town, and something of the 
 neighbourhood. We paid a visit to the hospital, and were glad to 
 find that the poor mate and the captain's son were going on very 
 well. 
 
 Next morning broke bright and beautiful, with a fine northerly 
 breeze, which raised our spii-its; and sailing out of the harbour, we 
 stood towards Buchan Ness, on the summit of which stands a stone 
 tower, with a light flashing from it at night, to show the approach to 
 Peterhead. We sighted Slaines Castle, from which we steered a 
 direct course for Aberdeen. About ten o'clock, the distance run 
 being about thirty miles, we sighted the Girdlestone Lighthouse, on 
 the southern side of the river Don, on which Aberdeen stands. 
 Crossing the bar, we found ourselves in a wide bay. Several vessels 
 and a number of boats were standing towards the spacious quays, 
 backed by the fine granite-built houses of New Aberdeen, 
 
 On landing, we noticed the massive appearance imparted to the 
 houses by the granite of which they are composed. 
 
 Our first visit was to Marischal College, the great seat of learning 
 in the north, where Captain Dalgetty, that redoubted soldier of 
 fortune, according to Scott, obtained his education. We went through 
 the museum, library, and observatory, saw a good collection of 
 paintings, and were especially struck by the handsome way in which 
 the whole building is furnished. 
 
 Hurrying on, however, to the old town, on the south bank of 
 the Don, we visited the parish church of Old Machar, a grand and 
 venerable building. The pillars in the transept have their capitals 
 beautifully carved in oak. We then went to King's College, a 
 
254 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 large quadrangular edifice, including the chapel, built of granite. 
 The examination hall contains a collection of the portraits of the 
 old Scottish kings and the early principals of the college, — a Bishop 
 Elphinstone, the founder, being among them. We were amused 
 by seeing the students, of whom there were between two and three 
 hundred, walking about dressed in red gowns. They belong to all 
 ranks of society, many labouring during the summer to obtain the 
 means of educating themselves in the winter. We heard a pleasant 
 anecdote of the late Duke of Gordon, who used to send out a carriage 
 when he knew that the young men were on their way to college, 
 in order to give them a lift for a stage or two. Many, we were 
 told, had worked at the Caledonian Canal before thus arriving in the 
 ducal carriage. 
 
 We saw many evidences of the prosperity of Aberdeen ; and 
 while we lay in the harbour two or three steamers came in and 
 out ; one on its way to the islands of Orkney and Shetland, and 
 others to Leith and the Thames. Our few hours at Aberdeen 
 were among the most interesting we spent on shore during our 
 voyage. 
 
 Sailing again in the afternoon, with a fine northerly breeze, we 
 passed the neat town of Stonehaven, about fifteen miles to the south, 
 and soon afterwards the grand ruins of^ Dunnottar Castle, a large 
 square tower rising from amid the ruins of other buildings on the 
 very edge of the cliff. We could judge of its size by the extent of 
 the remaining walls. It was here that the crown and sceptre of King 
 Charles were kept during the Civil Wars. The castle was besieged, 
 and the garrison was about to capitulate, when Mrs. Ogilvie, the 
 governor's wife, put them in charge of Mrs. Grainger, the wife of 
 the minister of Kinneff, who had paid her a visit by permission of the 
 Republican General Lambert. Mrs. Ogilvie managed, with wonderful 
 boldness, to smuggle out the crown, fastened under her cloak, while 
 her servant hid the sceptre and sword in a bag of flax which she 
 carried on her back. It was here, also, that many of the Covenanters 
 
I 
 
ANOTHER WRECK. 257 
 
 were imprisoned, and, according to an ancient chronicler, Wallace 
 put to death four thousand Englishmen, who had fled for safety 
 into the church. The approaching night hid the gloomy walls from 
 our view. 
 
 As we passed the towns of Montrose and Arbroath during the night, 
 we saw nothing of them. The wind fell light when off the latter 
 place, and then blew fi'om the south-west, bringing up a thick fog, 
 which shrouded the whole surface of the water. Papa being told of it, 
 he went on deck, and Dick and I followed him ; when he at once 
 hauled the yacht on the wind, and stood off the coast. After running 
 on for about an hour, the peculiar mournful sound of a bell reached 
 us. As we stood on, it sounded every half-minute, louder and louder. 
 
 ' Where does that come from % ' inquired Dick. 
 
 ' From the Bell Kock,' answered Truck. ' If it wasn't for the 
 fog we should see a light from the tall tower which now stands 
 on the rock, bright and red alternately. Once upon a time there was 
 no tower there ; but there was a bell fixed on a buoy, and as the 
 waves beat against it, it tolled without ceasing ; but I have heard say 
 that there was a pirate, who used to cruise in those seas, who cut the 
 bell off; but not long after, when making for Dundee, during a dark 
 night and a heavy gale, he ran his ship on it, and was lost with 
 all his men — a judgment on him for his evil deeds.' 
 
 The wind dropping altogether, we lay becalmed, within the sound 
 of the bell, until morning broke and the fog lifted, when we saw the 
 tower just ahead of us. The centre part of the building was coloured 
 white, and could scarcely be seen against the sky ; but the lower part, 
 which was dark, and the lantern, which was in shadow, were perfectly 
 visible. We pulled towards it; and as we approached we saw 
 the rocks on which the lighthouse stands rising ten feet or more 
 above the water. Iron ladders were fixed for landing, and by a 
 gun-metal ladder we were able to reach the entrance port. The 
 head keeper came down and received us cordially. As in other light- 
 houses, the first story is used for storing coal ; the second for water ; 
 
258 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 the next for oil; and the next for bedrooms, with berths for six 
 persons. Above it is the kitchen, and above that the sitting-room, 
 in which we saw a bust of Stevenson, the engineer. The light is 
 revolving, and has five reflectors, on each of which are two faces, 
 one red and one white. The red colour is produced by chimneys 
 of red glass. The keeper told us that four men belonged to the light- 
 house, that they are all married, but that three only were on duty. 
 As at the other lighthouses, birds are occasionally killed by flying 
 against the glasses. 
 
 Soon after we left the Bell Rock, the wind freshening from the 
 southward, we stood on for Dundee, from which it is about five 
 and twenty miles distant. We passed through the narrow entrance 
 of the Firth of Tay, with Broughty Castle on our right, beyond which 
 we came off Dundee, standing on the northern shore, and rising on 
 a gentle declivity from the water's edge, towa-rds a high hill called 
 the Law. The estuary here is nearly two miles wide. A number 
 of vessels were at anchor, while the docks seen beyond the quays 
 were full of shipping. Dundee has a handsome appearance, with 
 its broad streets and fine stone houses. About the centre of the town, 
 we passed what looked like one enormous church, with a lofty tower 
 at the western end ; but we found that it consisted of four parish 
 churches, which are built side by side, so as to form one edifice. 
 
 'I wish that all Christian communities could thus live in unity,' 
 observed papa. 
 
 These churches were, as may be supposed, all Presbyterian. There 
 are several others in the town. We were told that there were nearly 
 ninety schools in Dundee, at which upwards of four thousand children 
 are educated. One of the most interesting places which claimed 
 our attention was the Watt Institution, established in honour of 
 James Watt, for the instruction of young men in science. There 
 are also nearly forty mills for spinning flax, weaving linen, sail-cloth, 
 sacking, and cordage. On the quay stands a handsome arch, built 
 after a Flemish model. Besides the patent slip and graving dock, 
 
■ If i ' lii'' ;f 
 
 R 2 
 
ANOTHER WRECK. 261 
 
 there are three wet docks and two tidal harbours, while other im- 
 provements are being carried on ; so that Dundee is a most flourishing 
 place. 
 
 Not far off is Camperdown, once the residence of Lord Duncan, 
 who called it after the famous victory he won over the Dutch ; 
 and a little distance further is Rossie Prior}-, belonging to the Kinnaird 
 family. 
 
 As we were anxious to look into St. Andrews, we sailed aorain 
 next morning, in the hope that the wind would continue in the 
 north, or at all events that we should be able to boat down thus 
 far. It is situated on the south shore of St. Andrew's Bay, some 
 little way outside the entrance to the Firth of Tay. The wind 
 favoured us more than we expected ; and a pilot-boat showing us the 
 way, we stood into the harbour, passing close under the peninsula 
 on which the town stands. Above us were the ruins of the cathedral 
 and the chapel of St. Rule, who was supposed to have founded the 
 place, with several other buildings. St. Andrews presented a very 
 ({uiet aspect, forming a great contrast to the bustling town of Dundee ; 
 but I must say it is a far more picturesque place. Of course we 
 visited the university, the most ancient in Scotland. It consists of 
 the colleges of St. Salvator, St. Leonard, and St. Mary. There is also 
 a school called the Madras College, founded by Dr. Bell, the originator 
 of the Madras system of education. By means of these colleges, at 
 which an almost free education can be obtained, young Scotchmen 
 without means are able to enjoy advantages which they could not do 
 in England. The town is certainly more alive than it was when 
 Dr. Johnson visited it in the last century ; he declared that one of the 
 streets was lost, and that in those that remained there was ' the silence 
 and solitude of inactive indigence and gloomy depopulation.' We 
 thought it a very picturesque-looking place, and should have remained 
 there longer had the wind not changed and induced us to put to sea. 
 
 Having passed round Fifeness, the eastern point, of the peninsula, 
 and opened the Isle of May lights — for there are two en the summit 
 
262 
 
 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 of the island — we stood across the Firth of Forth, intending to visit 
 Edinburgh. The wind being light the whole night, we made no way. 
 
 When morning broke, we were in sight of Fenton Law, which 
 rose beyond North Berwick, and the Bass Rock, at no great distance 
 off, standing high up above the blue sea. We passed close to it, 
 and got a view of the almost inaccessible castle perched on its 
 cliffs. It is now in ruins, but at one time was used as a state 
 prison, in which several of the most distinguished Covenanters were 
 confined. Wild flocks of sea-fowl rose above our heads from off the 
 rock, and among others were numbers of gannets or Solan geese. 
 
 As we had lost so much time, and had still the whole English coast 
 to run down, papa and Uncle Tom, after a consultation, agreed to 
 give up their visit to Edinburgh, and to continue their cruise across 
 to the southward. 
 
 THE BASS KOCK 
 
CHAPTEE XL 
 
 THE NOETH-EAST COAST. 
 
 E got a view of North Berwick, which stands on the 
 extreme northern point of Haddington ; and about three 
 miles to the eastward of it we came off the far-famed 
 Tantallon Castle, in days of yore the stronghold of the 
 Douglases. Of course, we got out Marmion, and read 
 the description of this celebrated fortress, which by the 
 extent of its ruins must have been of great size and strength. 
 
 ' I said, Tantallon's dizzy steep 
 Hung o'er the margin of the deep. 
 Many a rude tower and rampart there 
 Repelled the insult of the air, 
 Which, when the tempest vexed the sky, 
 Half breeze, half spray, came whistling by. . . 
 A parapet's embattled row 
 Did seaward round the castle go. 
 Sometimes in dizzy steps descending. 
 Sometimes in narrow circuit bending. 
 Sometimes in platform broad extending, 
 Its varying circle did combine 
 Bulwark, and bartizan, and line, 
 And bastion, tower, and vantage-coign. 
 Above the booming ocean leant 
 The far-projecting battlement; 
 The billows burst, in ceaseless flow, 
 Upon the precipice below.' 
 
264 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 We passed the mouth of the river Tyne, south of which stands 
 Dunbar. The next place of interest we came off was Fast Castle, of 
 which two tall towers remain close to the cliffs, — in former days the 
 stronghold of the Homes. It is supposed to be the original of Wolfs 
 Crag in The Bride of Lartinierimoor, We looked through our glasses 
 at the spot where the unhappy Master of Ravenswood sank with his 
 steed into the treacherous quicksand. 
 
 About fifteen miles farther on, we passed the bluff promontory 
 St. Abb's Head, and soon afterwards arrived off Berwick, which, I need 
 hardly say, stands at the mouth of the Tweed, the river dividing 
 England from Scotland. So close does the railway run to the cliffs, 
 that we could hear the trains passing as clearly as if we were on 
 shore, and could see them shooting by at a speed which made us 
 jealous. As the wind was fair, we did not put into the Tweed, but 
 stood close enough to Berwick to have a cursory view of it. As all 
 the world knows, Berwick is not within any county, for although 
 really in Berwickshire, it belongs to England. It is a county in 
 itself. A portion is still surrounded by walls erected in the time of 
 Elizabeth ; and it is defended by several bastions, with batteries 
 commanding the entrance to the harbour. We could see the remains 
 of an ancient castle, which is now a heap of ruins, but above it stands 
 the Bell Tower, still almost perfect. A number of vessels passed 
 in and out of the harbour while we were off it, showing that the 
 place has a good deal of trade. As we looked through our glasses, 
 we saw a number of churches and public buildings. A long stone 
 pier runs out on the north side of the Tweed, with a lighthouse at 
 its end. 
 
 We now stood on towards Holy Island, a few miles south of 
 Berwick, off the Northumbrian coast ; and as we had still several 
 hours of daylight, we hove to off the island. Here, in the early days 
 of Christianity, was a college of evangelists, who went forth to preach 
 the simple gospel through the northern portions of the country, to its 
 heathen kings, as well as to the people over whom they held sway. 
 
THE NORTH-EAST COAST. 265 
 
 Ultimately, monasteries were built here, famous for the supposed 
 piety of their inmates. 
 
 We pulled on shore to visit the ruins of the celebrated Abbey of 
 Lindisfarne. If the pilgrim visitors arrived at low water, they could 
 get across by following the sandbank which connects it with the main- 
 land ; but they had to make haste, to escape being caught by the 
 flood. 
 
 Besides the monastery, there was a castle of great strength, which 
 often resisted the invader's hostile attacks ; and heathen Danes had 
 again and again been driven back to their ships by its stalwart 
 garrison. Its glories, however, are departed. We could find only 
 a few low walls, over which we could leap, and the remains of a 
 staircase of eight or ten steps in a tower but little higher than the 
 wall. A board warning off trespassers took away what little romance 
 we had conjured up. 
 
 Eeturning on board, we again stood to the southward, sighting 
 Bamborough Castle, elevated on a green mound above the village. 
 Off it lies the Longstone Rock and the Fame Islands. I'he coast 
 looked bleak and desolate, with here and there dark rocks running 
 into the sea. The wind was very light as we came off the Longstone 
 Lighthouse. 
 
 While the yachts hove to, the boats were lowered, and we pulled 
 up to it, in order to pay a visit to the scene of Grace Darling's 
 heroism. For upwards of fifty years the lighthouse was under the 
 charge of William Darling, the father of Grace. We understood that 
 the present head keeper was a member of the family. The tower 
 stands on a rock, is painted red, and the light revolves every half- 
 minute. We were much interested with the memorials of Grace 
 Darling which embellished the sitting-room. The light-keeper on 
 duty pointed out the various localities connected with the wreck of 
 the Forfarshire. 
 
 Before daylight, on the 6th of September, 1838, a furious gale 
 blowing, Grace Darling, who acted as W^illiam Darling's assistant and 
 
266 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND, 
 
 was on watch, heard, as she thought, the cries of people coming from 
 the direction of some rocks a mile away. She awoke her father, and 
 together they stood listening to the appeals for help ; but in the dark, 
 with the furious sea there was running, it was impossible to put off 
 to their assistance. When day broke, however, the old man launched 
 his boat, and was about to shove off, when, observing the state of the 
 tide and weather, he hesitated to make the attempt. As the light 
 increased, Grace, who had been anxiously watching the wreck, 
 declared that she saw some people still clinging to it. 
 
 'We must save them!' she exclaimed; and seizing an oar, she 
 stepped into the boat. 
 
 The old man, aroused by her example, followed her. Through the 
 foaming seas, which threatened every moment to overwhelm the little 
 coble, they pulled off to the wreck. The fore part of the vessel, to 
 which nine people were clinging, alone remained ; to reach them 
 it was necessary to land on the lee side of the rock. This, after 
 considerable difficulty, William Darling succeeded in doing, when 
 immediately Grace rowed off in the coble, to prevent it being dashed 
 to pieces. One by one, five of the crew and four passengers were 
 drawn by the lighthouse-keeper off the wreck, and placed on the 
 rock, from whence they were transferred to the boat, and conveyed, 
 a few at a time, to the lighthouse. 
 
 Owing to the state of the weather, no communication could be held 
 with the mainland for two days, during which time the nine ship- 
 wrecked persons were treated with the utmost kindness by Mr. 
 Darling and his daughter. The calm bravery of Grace, who was at 
 that time only twenty-two years of age, excited the admiration of all 
 who heard it. Testimonials and suitable presents, together with 
 seven hundred pounds sterling raised by subscription, showed how 
 highly the public appreciated her conduct. The Forfarshire steamer, j 
 of three hundred tons, had sailed the previous evening from Hull, ' 
 bound for Dundee ; but her boilers becoming defective, the engines 
 could no longer work, and at three o'clock the following morning she 
 
THE NORTH-EAST COAST, 
 
 267 
 
 struck on the Longstone, the outermost of the Fame Islands, between 
 which the master was endeavouring to run the vessel. The mate, 
 with seven seamen, lowered a boat, and were escaping, when one of 
 the passengers leaped on board, others in vain attempting to follow 
 his example. The nine occupants of this boat were the following 
 
 MONUMENT TO GRACE DARLING. 
 
 morning picked up by a coaster and carried into Shields,— they, with 
 those rescued by the Darlings, being the only persons who escaped 
 out of sixty souls. 
 
 Four years after this heroic deed, Grace Darling lay upon her 
 dying bed. The grief of the family was very great, for Grace was 
 endeared to them all. ' Do not mourn for me,' she said ; ' I am only 
 
268 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 exchanging this life for one far better. If I remained here, I should 
 be subject to trouble and sickness; but in dying I go to be with 
 Christ my Saviour.' Two beautiful memorials of Grace have been 
 erected: one in Bamborough Churchyard, and the other in St. 
 Cuthbert's Chapel, on the Fame Island. Our picture represents that 
 in Bamborough Churchyard. Her sleeping figure lies under a Gothic 
 canopy, backed by the blue waves, and within sight of the scene of 
 her heroism. 
 
 * She is lying and sleeping now 
 Uniler the verdant turf. 
 Ah, there were breakers she might not ride ! 
 And her hair grew damp in that strong, dark tide, 
 But not with the briny surf. 
 
 And out of her lonely grave 
 
 She bids us this lesson prove, 
 That the weakest may wipe some tears that flow, 
 And the strongest power for good below 
 
 Is the might of unselfish love.' 
 
 In i860, the Iris, of Arbroath, struck on the rocks close to where 
 the Forfarshire was lost. The wind was so terrific, and the sea ran 
 so high, that the crew were afraid to take to their boat. They 
 accordingly leaped into the water, and were washed on to tlie rock, 
 though it was with the greatest difficulty that they managed to reach 
 it. Here they remained twelve hours, the sea being so rough that no 
 boat could come to them. Towards evening, the wind having slightly 
 fallen, William Darling, who was then seventy-five years of age, and 
 had been watching the wreck all day, put off" with several hands from 
 the lighthouse, and rescued the poor fellows from their perilous 
 position. 
 
 We had a scramble over a portion of the Fame Islands, on which 
 there are two lighthouses at a considerable distance from each other. 
 There are three keepers belonging to the two, but only one remains on 
 watch at a time ; he has to attend to both lights, and has to walk 
 from house to house. The keeper showed us a curious contrivance by 
 
THE NORTH-EAST COAST. 269 
 
 which he can at once rouse the sleeping keeper without leaving his 
 own post. It consists of a hand-bellows attached to a tube which 
 rings a bell at the ear of the sleeper. He told us that occasionally 
 blackbirds and thrushes are killed by striking against the lantern. 
 We saw a number of rabbits running in and out of their burrows. 
 There is an old chapel which has been restored, and another building, 
 converted into a dwelling-house for the clergyman, who at times 
 comes across from Durham. 
 
 Nat, who had landed with us, wag very anxious to keep a young 
 cormorant which he had picked up. He took it under his arm, in- 
 tending to carry off his prize ; but the mother bird attacked him so 
 I'uriously with its lono* beak, that it nearly put out one of his eyes, and 
 succeeded in severely biting his lip. On this. Nat very naturally let 
 go the youngster, which scuttled off, determined not to be caught 
 again, and, taking to the water, swam away at a great rate. The 
 odour produced by the birds was anything but pleasant. We saw a 
 number of cormorants diving in search of prey, and they came up with 
 eels in their mouths. One had caugfht a bio: eel, which it battered 
 against the rock until it had killed it ; but others gobbled down small 
 eels without the slightest hesitation. The young birds were the oddest- 
 looking creatures imaginable. Their covering was a hard black skin, 
 with here and there black woolly down upon it. The old birds' heads 
 and necks were black, speckled with white feathers, while the upper 
 part of the body was brown mingled with black. They had also white 
 patches on their thighs, and yellow pouches under the throat edged 
 with white. They were fully three feet long; so that, with their 
 strong beaks, they were formidable antagonists. 
 
 The gulls were even more numerous than the cormorants. Though 
 they kept out of our way, they did not appear otherwise to fear us. 
 They looked very large on the wing, as their white feathers glanced 
 in the rays of the setting sun ; but they are not more than half the 
 size of the cormorant. They act the useful part of scavengers on the 
 coast^ and eagerly pick up all the offal thrown on the shore.^ 
 
270 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 We returned to the yachts, and once more made sail. We got a 
 good view through our glasses of the old towers of Dunstanborough 
 Castle. As the wind fell light, we pulled in to have a look at it, papa 
 being anxious to do so, as he had visited it in his younger days. The 
 weather-beaten ruin stands on the summit of a black cliff, rising sheer 
 out of the ocean. Three towers, one square, and the others semi- 
 circular, remain, with the greater portion of the outer wall, enclosing 
 several acres of green turf, over which, instead of mail-clad warriors, 
 peaceable sheep now wander. The principal tower overlooks a deep 
 gully or gap in the rocks, up which the sea, during easterly gales, 
 rushes with tremendous force and terrific noise, lashed into masses of 
 foam, which leap high over the crumbling walls. This gully is known 
 by the significant name of the Rumble Churn. This ocean-circled 
 fortress was erected — so say the chroniclers — in the fourteenth century, 
 by Thomas, Earl of Lancaster. Many a tale of siege and border war- 
 fare its stones could tell ; for the Cheviot hills — the boundary between 
 Scotland and England — can be seen from the summit of its battlements. 
 Having bravely held out for Queen Margaret of Anjou, it was com- 
 pletely dismantled in the reign of Edward the Fourth, and has ever 
 since remained like a lion deprived of its claws, crouching over the 
 ocean, a sad memento of its former power. Had it remained until 
 gunpowder was in general use, it would probably have been entirely 
 overthrown. 
 
 Papa described to us Warkworth Castle, which stands further south, 
 above the banks of the Coquet river, on a high wood-covered hill. 
 The greater portion of the ruins remain ; indeed, the woodwork alone 
 has disappeared, and the masonry is in so good a state of preservation, 
 that the late Duke of Northumberland proposed to restore it, and 
 make it his residence, instead of Alnwick Castle. Near it a hermit 
 dwelt in a cavern; he became a hermit in consequence of having 
 killed the brother of his betrothed, whom he mistook for a rival, after 
 his return from the Crusades. 
 
 We sighted Coquet Island, with its square white lighthouse, from 
 
THE NORTH-EAST COAST. 
 
 271 
 
 which a light burst forth as we approached. Near it were the castel- 
 lated dwellings of the keepers, painted different colours. In its 
 neighbourhood are dangerous rocks, and over each a red ray is shown, 
 to warn vessels which might otherwise run upon them. We were 
 now almost constantly in sight of some light, which enabled us to 
 
 WAKKWOKTH CASTLE. 
 
 know our exact position. Dick and I turned in while Coquet Island 
 light still shon3 brightly. 
 
 We expected the next morning to be off Hartlepool, at the mouth 
 of the Tees ; but when day broke we found ourselves in sight of a 
 
272 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 picturesque castle standing on a point of land, with a broad river 
 flowing below it, and a town at its foot. When we asked Truck what 
 it was, he answered: 
 
 ' That's Tynemouth, at the mouth of the Tyne ; and the captain says 
 he intends to run in there to have a look at the place. It's as well 
 worth seeing as any place we have been to. Beyond it you see North 
 Shields, and South Shields on the southern bank ; and higher up is 
 Newcastle, where coals come from, as you've heard tell of.' 
 
 We laughed at Truck's description. ' If they don't come from 
 Newcastle, I don't know where else they come from,' remarked Dick. 
 
 'A good many other places, young gentleman. There's no small 
 quantity shipped from Sunderland and Swansea ; and also from some 
 of the Scotch ports. If we go up to Newcastle, we shall see the curious 
 way they are put on board the colliers.' 
 
 ' But why haven't we got further ? ' I asked. 
 
 ' Because we have had light winds, and the tides have been against 
 us most of the night,' answered Truck. 
 
 As not only the tide, but the wind also was against us, papa, on 
 coming on deck, agreed to run up the Tyne. Hauling our wind, we 
 stood in for North Shields, passing close under the lighthouse, which 
 stands amid the ruins of the castle. 
 
 North Shields was evidently an active commercial place. Ship- 
 building was going on in the yards, and vessels were loading with 
 coals, bound to all parts of the world, each with a number of keels, or 
 oval boats, alongside, which had brought down the coal from the 
 upper part of the river. On board the vessels cranes were at work 
 lifting up tubs of coal from out of the keels, and depositing them in 
 their holds. Of these keels I shall have more to say by-and-by. 
 Steamers emitting black wreaths of smoke were coming and going, — 
 some towing vessels out to sea, others taking them up the harbour ; 
 while several were conveying passengers. After breakfast we went 
 on board one of the passenger vessels, for papa and Uncle Tom did 
 not wish to carry the yachts higher up. 
 
THE NORTH-EAST COAST. 275 
 
 We had clear evidence that we were in a region of coal. The 
 greater number of vessels we met were colliers, their crews be- 
 grimed with coal dust. ' Everybody,' as Dick remarked, ' had a coaly 
 look.' People were heard conversing in a broad Northumbrian accent, 
 with a burr in most of their words = They were broad-shouldered 
 men, capable of doing any amount of hard work. We came in sight 
 of a fine stone bridge with nine elliptical arches, which connects 
 Newcastle with Gateshead, on the opposite bank. Above it is another 
 magnificent bridge ; it is double, the lower roadway, ninety feet above 
 the river, being used for carriages and foot passengers, while the upper 
 carries the railway. It has two piers at the margin of the river, and 
 four others in the stream itself, besides smaller piers. It was curious 
 to walk under it, and to hear the trains rumbling by overhead. 
 
 Newcastle stands on the north bank of the river. At first we 
 thought it a ver}^ smoky town, but on emerging from the narrow old 
 streets we reached some fine broad thoroughfares with large houses 
 and magnificent public buildings. At the quays were a vast number 
 of vessels, some of considerable size. Formerly coals used to be put 
 on board vessels from the oval boats I have before mentioned, called 
 keels, of which a considerable number are still employed. Each keel 
 carries about twenty tons of coal, the larger masses being piled up in 
 the vessel, but smaller coal is carried in tubs, each keel having about 
 eight tubs. The keels are antique-looking craft, such as were pro- 
 bably used in the earliest days of our history. They are propelled by 
 large oars. The keel man, commencing at the bow, presses the oar 
 before him, until he reaches the after part of the boat ; he then hurries 
 back to the bow, and again puts down his oar. The keel men are a 
 fine hardy race. Formerty they were spoken of as ' bullies ' ; but this, 
 among the colliers, means ' brothers,' or is derived from ' boolie,' that 
 is, 'beloved.' Though their manners are rough, their character is 
 good, and they are remarkably friendly to each other. Being all 
 'keel bullies' or 'keel brothers,' they support an extensive establish- 
 ment in Newcastle called the ' Keelmen's Hospital.' We met a whole 
 
 S 2 
 
276 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 fleet of these keels as we came up, working their way down with their 
 ' puys ' or oars. A considerable quantity of coal is scattered over the 
 sides when hoisting it on board, and this is brought back by the flood 
 tide into shallow water, where a number of people are seen in their 
 little cobles dredging for it. 
 
 The larger number of vessels are, however, loaded from the 'straiths.' 
 These are platforms placed over the river and connected with tram- 
 ways, joined to the various pits. The waggons, each containing two 
 and a half tons of coal, come down for many miles until they reach 
 the ' straith,' when they are brought to a stand. In the ' straith ' is a 
 hatchway, which opens by machinery, through which the waggon 
 descends with a man in it, who, when it arrives over the hold, 
 unfastens a catch which secures the bottom of the waggon ; this being 
 made to turn upon hinges, like a trap door when opened, the whole 
 of the coal is poured into the hold. Attached to the suspending 
 machinery are two counterpoising weights, which being less heavy than 
 the waggon laden with coal, do not impede its descent. The moment 
 it is discharged of its coal it is drawn up again by these weights. 
 
 As we descended the river we were much amused by seeing these 
 coal waggons running swiftly on the ' straith, stop a moment, then go 
 down with the descending men ; and having got rid of their coal with 
 a loud rushing noise, rise up again, as if perfectly aware of what they 
 were about. 
 
 We returned in the afternoon to the yachts, and stood out to sea, 
 hoping to obtain a slant of wind which might carry us further down 
 the coast. 
 
 Having seen the largest coal-shipping place, we had no particular wish 
 to visit Sunderland, the chief port of Durham. Beyond it is Seaham, 
 which has of late years sprung into existence. The mines in the 
 neighbourhood belonged to the late Marquis of Londonderry, who wisely 
 formed a fine harbour here by constructing two piers running out 
 from the land ; and his heir has been richly rewarded by his enterprise. 
 
 Further south is the seaport of Hartlepool, jutting out into the sea, 
 
THE NORTH-EAST COAST. 
 
 277 
 
 a short distance from the river Tees. It was once a place of great 
 strength, and contained one of the most ancient monasteries in the 
 
 SCARBOROUGH CASTLE. 
 
 kingdom. A portion of the walls which defended the old haven still 
 remains ; and the new harbour has been formed by a pier run out 
 from the south side of the town. It will not, however, hold vessels 
 of large tonnage. The inhabitants are mostly engaged in fishing. 
 
 The next day we were in sight of the Yorkshire coast. Passing 
 Whitby and Scarborough, after rounding Flamborough Head, opening 
 up Bridlington Bay, we stood for Spurn Head, on the top of which are 
 two lighthouses, y 
 
278 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 As we had still sufficient daylight, we ran up the Humber to visit 
 Hull, which stands on its northern bank. A large number of coasters 
 were at anchor before its extensive quays ; it has also docks of great 
 size. Numbers of steam-vessels were gliding in and out of the 
 harbour. It is properly called Kingston-upon-HuU. It took its name 
 when it was purchased by Edward the First, who, seeing the great 
 natural advantages of its position, formed here a fortified town and 
 port. There is nothing very attractive in the appearance of the 
 place ; but we were interested by a visit to a fine column on a square 
 pedestal, erected to the memory of the great Wilberforce, whose statue 
 adorns the summit. The town contains two colleges, several hospitals, 
 and numerous other public institutions. We went on board the 
 guardship stationed here, with some of the officers, with whom papa 
 was acquainted, and were interested in hearing an account of the 
 Coastguard system. Ships are stationed at different ports round the 
 coast, and are called ' Coastguard ' or district ships, for Coastguard 
 and Royal Naval Coast Volunteer duties. The English coast is 
 divided into six districts ; namely, the Hull district, which extends 
 from Berwick to Cromer ; the Harwich, from North Yarmouth to 
 Eamsgate ; the Newhaven district, from Folkestone, including South- 
 ampton Water, the Isle of Wight, and Lymington ; the Falmouth and 
 Weymouth district, including Bournemouth, Land's End, and taking 
 in Penzance and the Scilly Isles. The rest of the coast is divided 
 between Milford and Liverpool. Scotland has two ' Coastguard ' 
 districts, the east and the west coasts. Ireland has also two districts. 
 The services on which the ships are employed are numerous. First, 
 for the protection of the revenue ; to keep up a reserve of seamen, and 
 as a depot for stores and clothing. The captain of the ship takes the 
 duties of the old inspecting commanders, and the officers — of whom 
 there are a large number appointed to each ship for that especial 
 purpose — have command of the different stations. Each ship has 
 four or five tenders attached to her, employed in protecting either the 
 revenue or the fisheries. The ships generally go to sea for a month or 
 
THE NORTH-EAST COAST. 281 
 
 so in the course of the year, and are kept ready to proceed to any part 
 of the world. They do not keep up their usual complement of men, 
 but when required the crew are drawn from the Coastguard. Besides 
 these ships, there are six in England and two in Scotland, called ' drill 
 ships.' They, however, never go to sea. They are employed in 
 receiving on board the Royal Naval Reserve Force, — seamen as well 
 as officers, — who go through a periodical drill. The Royal Naval 
 Coast Volunteers also drill on board these ships. These volunteers 
 are seafaring men, and they rank with ordinary seamen, and not, like 
 the men of the Naval Reserve, with able-bodied seamen. 
 
 Both the men of the Reserve and Coast Volunteers are expected to 
 drill twenty- eight days in the year, either on board a district ship, a 
 drill ship, or at the shore battery. By these means an efficient body 
 of men is kept up, ready for immediate service in case of war. The 
 men quarrel at times among themselves, the result frequently being a 
 black eye ; but they will never tell upon each other ; and sometimes 
 a very curious cause is assigned as the reason of having a black eye. 
 A man once said 'that he had slipped and kicked himself,' though 
 how he managed to kick his own eye it is difficult to say ! Another 
 reason often given is, ' that they have run up against a pump-handle.'' 
 The man-of-war hats are very unpopular, for they are particularly 
 heavy. Good straw hats having lately been scarce, an armourer was 
 found constructing one of tin ; but that must have been not only 
 heavier, but much hotter. The men usually make their own hats, 
 and as usually manage to lose them. As soon as the hat is found, 
 the man is placed before it, and compelled to look steadily at it for a 
 certain time. 
 
 We got under weigh again in the afternoon of the next day, and 
 stood down the Humber, until we came in sight once more of the 
 Spurn lights. During the next night, while we were steering for the 
 Dudgeon floating light-vessel, one of the men on the look-out 
 shouted, — 
 
 ' A light on the starboard bow ! Starboard the helm ! Hard a 
 
282 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 starboard ! ' and I saw a screw steamer rapidly approaching us. Had 
 the night been thick, and the look-out not been on the alert, we 
 should certainly have been run down. 
 
 It was two hours before we sighted Dudgeon light, and from thence 
 we steered for Cromer, which we knew by its having a bright light 
 revolving every minute. Outside of it was the Hasborough floating- 
 light, and beyond that another light-vessel. We came oft' Cromer in 
 the forenoon, when the vessels were hove to ; and we pulled in for the 
 shore to visit some friends of Uncle Tom. 
 
 We landed among a number of fishing boats, the place itself being 
 a large and flourishing village, though there were a number of nice 
 residences for people who visit it during the summer. In the middle 
 rises a remarkably handsome church, its tower rising high above the 
 surrounding buildings. 
 
 Along the coast are several round towers, which were built during 
 the last war to defend the shore from invasion, though at present they 
 would be of very little use. Papa was so pleased with the appearance 
 of the place, that he said he should come there some summer with the 
 rest of the family. 
 
 Leaving Cromer, we stood on for Great Yarmouth, inside a long 
 line of sandbanks, which are known by the light- vessels stationed at 
 their different ends. 
 
 Great Yarmouth is situated on the seashore, at the southern end of 
 Norfolk. The river Yare follows a serpentine course, and falls into 
 the sea at the village of Gorleston, a short distance from Yarmouth to 
 the southward. 
 
 We waited until a pilot came on board to take us in, as the entrance 
 is very narrow, between two long wooden piers, one projecting a 
 considerable way into the sea. Further along the shore to the south 
 rises a high sandy cliff*, on the top of which we saw a good-sized vessel 
 building. We asked the pilot how she could ever be launched, and 
 he told us that she would be eased down the cliffs by ropes at high 
 tide, when the water, rushing close up to the base, would float her. 
 
THE NORTH-EAST COAST. 
 
 285 
 
 We brought-up at^'some little distance from the entrance, opposite a 
 line of neat-looking cottages, forming the village of Gorleston, and 
 inhabited chiefly by pilots. As it was getting late, we settled not to 
 go on shore until the following morning. 
 
 
CHAPTEE XII. 
 
 YAEMOUTH. 
 
 FTER an early breakfast, we landed on the north side of the 
 river, and made our way over a level sandy plain towards 
 a tall column which rose in the midst of it. The plain is 
 called the Denes, and extends from the mouth of the river 
 to the town. It is scantily covered with grass and sea 
 plants, round which the sand collects in little hillocks. 
 We had to steer our way among a vast number of tanned nets spread 
 out to dry. Here and there fishermen and their wives and daughters 
 were employed in mending those which had received damage. There 
 must have been acres upon acres of these nets. We soon reached 
 the column, which we found was erected by the inhabitants of the 
 county to the memory of Lord Nelson, who was a Norfolk man. At 
 the top of each side of the pedestal were the names of the hero's chief 
 victories. At the summit is a ball, on which stands the figure of 
 Britannia holding a trident and a laurel wreath. The keeper 
 invited us to enter ; and we ascended by a flight of two hundred and 
 seventeen steps to a gallery at the top of the column, the total height 
 being one hundred and forty-four feet. From the platform we got a 
 good bird's-eye view of the town below us, and the countrj^ as far as 
 Norwich, and a wide extent of ocean. 
 
YARMOUTH. 287 
 
 ' Have you been here long % ' I asked the keeper. 
 
 ' Not so long as the man who had charge before me,' he answered ; 
 ' he came here when the column was first put up. and here he stayed 
 for wellnigh forty years.' 
 
 ' What was his name % ' I enquired, finding that the old custos was 
 more inclined to speak of his predecessor than himself. 
 
 ' James Sharman. He was with Lord Nelson at Trafalgar. It was 
 he who helped to carry the admiral from the upper deck to the 
 cockpit. He came home in the Victory, and afterwards joined several 
 other ships, until he bore up for Greenwich Hospital ; but not liking 
 to be shut up there. Sir Thomas Hardy — who, you mind, was Lord 
 Nelson's flag-captain — got him appointed to look after this column ; 
 and a good berth it is. He entered the navy as far back as 1 799, and 
 was afloat wellnigh twenty years. He came here, as near as I can 
 remember, in 18 19. He was as brave a seaman as ever stepped. I 
 mind hearing of a gallant act of his, after he had been here about ten 
 years. It was at the end of November ; and the day was fast closing 
 in, when the Hammond, a brig bound from Newcastle to London, 
 drove on shore during a heavy gale, just a little way to the south of 
 where we are standing. As she was heavily laden, and the water is 
 shallow thereabout, she grounded more than a hundred fathoms from 
 the beach. In a short time the wreck parted, and both her masts fell, 
 carrying away, as was supposed, the whole of the crew. A short time 
 after dark, however, one of the preventive men, named Smith, brought 
 word to Sharman that he heard groans upon the wreck. 
 
 ' " The groans must come from some poor fellow, and we will do our 
 best to save him," cried Sharman ; " come along, Smith." 
 
 ' Taking a long rope, they hurried back to the beach. 
 
 ' " Now you hold on to the rope, and I'll make the other end fast 
 round my waist ; and I'll see what I can do," cried Sharman. 
 
 ' Without a moment's delay he plunged unto the surf, which three 
 times carried him off his legs and sent him back on shore. Again he 
 tried, and this time the sea drove him right against the wreck. The 
 
288 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 night was so dark that he had a hard matter to find out where the 
 poor fellow was. At length he found a man clinging to the breast- 
 work. The poor fellow told him that just before three men who had 
 clung on until then had been washed away, and if he had come a few 
 minutes sooner they might have been saved. As to swimming to shore, 
 that he was certain was more than he could do. On this Sharman, 
 taking the rope off himself, made it fast round the seaman's waist, and 
 shouted to Smith to haul in, while he himself trusted to his strong 
 arms to hold on to the rope. They thus mercifully got safe to shore.' 
 
 A more appropriate spot than this could not have been fixed on for 
 a monument to Nelson, who was born at Burnham Thorpe, of which 
 his father, the Rev. Edmund Nelson, was rector. His mother was 
 Catherine, daughter of Dr. Suckling, Prebendary of Westminster, 
 with one of whose sons. Captain Maurice Suckling, he first went to 
 sea, on board the Eaisonnable, of sixty-four guns. His education was 
 obtained, first at the High School at Sanwich, and afterwards at North 
 Walsham. After the misunderstanding with Spain had been settled, 
 he left the Raisonnable, and was sent in a West Indian ship, 
 commanded by a Captain Eathbone, who had been in the navy with 
 his uncle. So great a dislike for the Royal Navy was instilled into 
 him by the merchant seamen, that it was many weeks after he had 
 joined the Triumph — to which on his return he had been appointed 
 — before he became at all reconciled to remaining in it. How 
 different might have been his lot had he not got over his prejudices ! 
 though, wherever he might have been, he would have contrived to 
 make his name known. 
 
 On leaving Nelson's column, we proceeded along a road parallel 
 with the river, having on our right the new barracks and on our left 
 the Naval Hospital^ which is placed in a fine airy situation, with the 
 Denes in front and the sea beyond. It was here that Nelson, when 
 the fleet came into Yarmouth, visited the poor wounded seamen, and 
 going along the wards, spoke a kind word to each. It was by acts 
 such as these that the admiral won the affection of his men, who 
 
YARMOUTH, 
 
 289 
 
 used to say of him, 'Our Nel is as brave as a lion, and as gentle as 
 a lamb.' 
 
 We presently found ourselves on the quays, running for a mile along 
 the bank of the river, and which are considered equal to any in the 
 kingdom. Opposite to us, on the south shore, a modern town has 
 
 A YARMOUTH ROW. 
 
 sprung up ; and we here saw a number of vessels building, the chief of 
 them, judging from their size^ intended for the deep-sea fishery. 
 
 We had heard that Yarmouth was likened to a gridiron, and we 
 now saw the reason. Comparatively few broad streets run north and 
 south ; they are, however, joined by one hundred and fifty or more 
 narrow passages, called rows, which run east and west, like the bars of 
 
 T 
 
290 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 a gridiron. In many of them the houses project beyond their founda- 
 tions, so that the inhabitants can almost shake hands with their 
 opposite neighbours. Most of the rows are paved with pebbles 
 brought up from the beach. Uncle Tom observed that the word 'row' 
 is probably derived from the French rue, a street. In many of them 
 we observed curious pieces of old architecture. They are now 
 numbered, but used to be called after the names of some of the 
 principal inhabitants. One is called George and Dragon Row ; and 
 in it we noticed a somewhat tumbledown cottage, built in what is 
 denominated the ' herring-bone pattern ' ; the bones or frame being of 
 wood placed in a zig-zag fashion, filled up with masonry. Another 
 row is Kitty Witches Row. One end is scarcely three feet wide. It 
 is supposed that this row was inhabited by women, who used to go about 
 at certain seasons of the year, dressed in fantastic fashions, to collect 
 contributions. Yarmouth carts are formed probably after the model 
 of the most ancient vehicles in the kingdom. They are long, narrow, 
 and low, the wheels being placed under the seat, so as to occupy as 
 little space as possible. The shafts are fastened to the axles, and two 
 or three perpendicular pieces of wood — the hinder most being the 
 longest — support the seat, on which a person can recline at his ease. 
 It will thus be seen that wherever the horses can go, the cart can 
 follow. 
 
 Passing a very fine Town Hall we reached the end of a remarkably 
 handsome bridge, which unites Southtown to Yarmouth. We then 
 turned to our right through some narrow roads ; and having crossed 
 a broad street, we found ourselves in an open space in front of the 
 Church of St. Nicholas, one of the largest parish churches in the 
 kingdom. Turning back and passing the fine Fisherman's Hospital, 
 we entered the market-place, which occupies nearly three acres of 
 land. About the centre of the market-place there are some smooth 
 stones in the form of a cross, which mark the spot where the town 
 cross once stood. It was formerly adorned with the pillory and 
 stocks, but they have long disappeared. The freemen of the town 
 
YARMOUTH. 
 
 291 
 
 have the right of selling here free, with one stall. At the north end 
 of the market is an avenue of lime-trees, which adds to its pleasant 
 foreign appearance. In the yard of the Fisherman's Hospital we saw 
 a figure of Charity ; and the cupola above is adorned by a statue of 
 the Apostle Peter, who, in former days, was looked upon as the patron 
 of fishermen. 
 
 THE TOLL HOUSE, AND ENTRANCE TO YARMOUTH GAOL. 
 
 We went to see the Toll House and Gaol, which are the oldest 
 buildings in the town. We entered a hall by an external staircase, 
 leading to an Early English doorway, which has the tooth ornament 
 on the jambs. Opposite to it is an enclosed Early English window, 
 with cinquefoil heads and shafts in the jambs. 
 
292 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 We were shown an ancient iron chest, called a hatch, in which the 
 Corporation of Yarmouth kept their charters and valuable documents. 
 Among the contents are the tallies or cleft sticks upon which the 
 accounts were formerly kept, the stick being notched according to the 
 amount of money advanced, one part being given to the creditor, and 
 the other to the debtor. The same plan is used in the present day by 
 the hop-pickers in Kent, the overseer having one stick, while the 
 picker keeps the other, and notches it each time a basket is emptied. 
 Beneath this Toll House is the ancient Gaol or House of Correction. 
 Up to the present century this gaol was as defective as that of prisons 
 generally. Under the ground is an apartment called the hold, with 
 iron rings fixed to a heavy beam of wood crossing the floor. To this 
 beam — in olden times — prisoners were wont to be chained. The 
 sufferings of these unfortunate persons stirred up the heart of a 
 Christian woman, Sarah Martin, residing in Yarmouth. Though 
 compelled to support herself as a dressmaker, she devoted much of her 
 time, as did John Howard and Elizabeth Fry, to visiting her suffering 
 fellow-creatures. For twenty-four years she thus laboured, visiting 
 day after day the prisoners and malefactors in the town gaol. There 
 was no one on earth to reward her, no one to thank her; but she 
 trusted in God, and gave Him the praise that she was thus able to 
 labour in His service. By her instrumentality many who were looked 
 upon as hardened wretches by their fellow-men were brought to the 
 foot of the cross as penitent sinners. When she lay dying, a friend 
 asked, ' What shall I read ? ' her answer was one word, ' Praise.' To 
 the question, ' Are there any clouds % ' she answered, ' None : He never 
 hides His face ; it is our sins which form the cloud between us and 
 Him. He is all love, all light.' And when the hour of her departure 
 was come, her exclamation was, ' Thank God ! thank God ! ' 
 
 We read this account of the humble dressmaker near the spot where 
 she laboured, and from whence her spirit took its flight to be with 
 Him whom she had served on earth. 
 
 Between the old walls and the sea a new town has sprung up, with 
 
YARMOUTH. 295 
 
 fine terraces facing the water, and a battery at either end ; running 
 out from it, over a narrow part of the Dene, into the ocean are 
 three piers. The one known as 'the Jetty,' from its jutting out 
 into the sea, is between the others. It is composed of strong 
 oaken piles driven into the soil and braced together with wooden 
 beams, further secured by iron fastenings. During heavy weather, at 
 high tide, the sea breaks completely over the end, while at low tide 
 it is left almost completely dry. Of late it has been considerably 
 extended. We walked to the end, to have a look at the town, with 
 its towers and windmills rising from amid the smaller houses. Near 
 the beach we visited the Fishermen's Chapel, to which an Institute 
 is attached, containing a library, reading-room, &c. 
 
 Along the shore are several high wooden structures with platforms 
 on the top. They are built to enable the pilots or boatmen to take 
 a survey of the roadstead and the sands beyond, that they may see 
 any vessel requiring their assistance. 
 
 Near these structures were two or more handsome boats drawn 
 up on the beach, which are called yawls. They can be launched 
 when no ordinary boat can put to sea, and they are principally used 
 for rendering assistance to vessels in distress. They are from fifty to 
 seventy feet in length, and each carries from ten to twenty men. ; 
 
 An old boatman told us of a very disastrous accident which 
 occurred some years ago to the Increase, to which a man named Samuel 
 Brock belonged. A signal of distress was seen flying on board a 
 Spanish brig in the offing, when the Increase, with a crew of ten men 
 and a London pilot, put off to her assistance. 
 
 The yawl, having reached the brig, put three hands on board to 
 navigate her into Yarmouth Harbour. She stood back for the shore. 
 On passing the Newarp Floating Light, a signal was made requesting 
 them to take a sick man on board, which they did, and then continued 
 their cruise with a strong breeze, under three lugs. They were taking 
 a snack of food, when, having imprudently trimmed the ballast to 
 windward — a most dangerous practice — a tremendous squall took the 
 
296 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 sails aback, and in a moment capsized her. Brock being a good 
 swimmer, struck out to get clear of his companions, his ears assailed 
 by their cries, mingled with the hissing of water and the howling of 
 the storm. After a moment or so he swam back to help an old man 
 to get hold of a spar ; he then himself got on the boat, and stood upon 
 its side ; but finding that she was gradually settling down, he again 
 struck off. By this time he supposed that all his companions were 
 lost ; and he began to think of the awful position in which he was 
 placed, the nearest land being fully six miles distant. He remembered 
 that it was half-past six just before the boat went over, and that as it 
 was now low water, the tide would be setting off the shore, making to 
 the southward, and that, therefore, he must swim fifteen miles before 
 the ebb would assist him. Just then, a rush horse-collar, which had 
 served as a fender to the boat, floated by. He got hold of it, and 
 putting his left arm through it, was supported until he had cut the 
 waistband of his cloth trousers, which then fell off. He in a similar 
 way got rid of his frock, his waistcoat, and neckcloth ; but he dared 
 not free himself from his oilskin trousers, fearing that his legs might 
 become entangled. He now put the collar over his head^ but although 
 it assisted him in floating, it retarded his swimming, and he had to 
 abandon it. He had gone some little distance, when he discovered 
 one of his messmates swimming ahead of him. The wind having gone 
 down, no cries were heard, and the moon shone calmly on the water. 
 Ere long he beheld the last of his companions sink without struggle 
 or cry. Should he give in also ? Not for a moment would he yield to 
 such a thought ; and he prepared himself for the desperate struggle. 
 
 For some time Winterton Light, to the north of Yarmouth, served 
 to direct his course ; when the tide carried him out of sight of it, a 
 star served to guide him. At length this was obscured by the clouds, 
 from which flashes of lightning, with crackliug peals of thunder, 
 burst forth. Still he swam on, until again the moon shone forth. 
 Having cut off his heavy boots, he swam more easily. And now 
 Lowestoft Light came in sight, and he saw the checkered buoy of 
 
YARMOUTH. 297 
 
 St. JSicholas Gat, opposite his own door, but still four miles away from 
 land. He had been five hours in the water. Here was something to 
 hold on by ; but he reflected that his limbs might become numbed 
 from exposure to the night air, and that it would be more prudent to 
 swim on. So abandoning the buoy, he steered for the land. Not 
 long afterwards he heard a whizzing sound overhead. It was 
 a huge gull which had made a dash at him, mistaking him for a 
 corpse ; a number followed, but by shouting and splashing he drove 
 them otf. He was now approaching Gorton Sands, over which the 
 sea was breaking, and he much doubted whether he could live through 
 it ; but in a short time he was driven over them into smooth water, 
 and the wind and swell coming from the eastward, he regained his 
 strength. Some distance to the southward, he saw a brig at anchor. 
 He was in doubt whether he should make towards her or continue 
 his course to the shore. There was a great deal of surf breaking on 
 the beach, and he might not have strength to climb up out of its reach. 
 Also, if he swam to the brig, he might fail to make himself heard by 
 the crew. However, on reflection, he determined to make for the brig. 
 He got within two hundred yards, but nearer it was impossible to get. 
 He now sang out with all his might. Happily, his voice was heard 
 by the watch, a boat was lowered, and at half-past one, having swum 
 seven and a half hours, he was on board the Betsey, at anchor in 
 Gorton Roads, nearly fifteen miles from the spot where the yawl was 
 capsized. On being lifted on deck he fainted ; and it was not until 
 long afterwards, by careful attention from the captain and crew, that 
 he was brought round. He suffered great pain in several parts of his 
 body, and it was with difliculty that he swallowed some warm beer. 
 He was landed at Lowestoft, and five days afterwards was able to 
 walk back to Yarmouth. We were shown the knife with which he 
 was enabled to cut off" his clothes and boots. A piece of silver was 
 fixed to it, on which were engraved the names of the crew of the yawl, 
 and the words, ' Brock, aided by this knife, was saved, after being 
 seven and a half hours in the sea. 6th October, 1835.' 
 
298 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 It was a remarkable thing that for some time previous he had been 
 without a knife, and only purchased this two days before. Nearly 
 half the time he was exposed to the full sweep of the North Sea ; the 
 other half he was partly sheltered by the Newarp and Cross Sands. 
 
 Between this and Yarmouth Roads is another long sandbank, at 
 the south end of which is the Nicholas Gat ; then comes the Gorton 
 Sandbank, over the end of which he was driven. He was described 
 to us as a strongly-built man of five feet five. Though Gaptain 
 Webb and others have swum far greater distances, few Englishmen 
 have ever performed such a feat as this under similar circumstances. 
 
 Afterwards we inspected the lifeboats, which are kept in houses 
 built to shelter them from the weather. They belong to an insti- 
 tution called the Norfolk Association for Saving Life from Shipwreck, 
 and are similar in construction to those already described. They are 
 fitted to carriages to convey them along the beach or down to the 
 harbour. 
 
 We went through a number of sheds where were some fine luggers, 
 used for the herring and mackerel fishery. Their crews were getting 
 them ready for sea. Each vessel is from forty to fifty tons burden, and 
 carries a crew of ten men. 
 
 The herring usually arrives on the Norfolk coast about the last 
 week in September, for the purpose of spawning, and they are then 
 in the best condition to become the food of man. The name ' herring ' 
 is derived from the German lieer^ an army, to which they are likened 
 in consequence of the vast nuin'ber which keep together. They are 
 mostly caught at a considerable distance from the coast; but they 
 do not always appear in the same place. Formerly it was supposed 
 that they were migratory ; but it is now believed that they keep 
 within the deeper parts of the ocean until they rise nearer the surface 
 in the autumn to deposit their eggs. For some years they have 
 appeared near the surface as early as the last week in August. A 
 herring seldom measures more than fourteen inches in length ; but 
 we were told that one was caught some years ago seventeen and 
 
YARMOUTH. 
 
 299 
 
 a half inches in length, seven and a half in girth, and that it weighed 
 thirteen ounces ! Each lugger carries from sixty to a hundred nets ; 
 
 TOWING OUT LUGGERS FROM YARMOUTH HARBOUR. 
 
 each not is about fifteen yards long, and is floated by corks placed 
 a few feet apart. The united nets form what is called a train fleet. 
 
300 
 
 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND, 
 
 or drift of nets. The depth to which they are sunk is regulated 
 by ropes seven or eight yards long, called seizings, of which there 
 are two to each net. They are made fast to a stout warp, running 
 along the whole of the train, which is upwards of a mile in length, 
 and supported near the surface by kegs, called ' bowls.' The warp 
 is useful in taking the strain off the nets, and in preventing their 
 loss, in case the nets should be fouled, or cut by a vessel passing 
 over them. The meshes are about an inch square. 
 
 HERRING FISHING. 
 
 Drift fishing is carried on at night. The nets are ' shot ' a little 
 before sunset, the vessel keeping before the wind, with only enough 
 sail set to take her clear of the nets as they are thrown overboard. 
 When all the nets are out, about fifteen more fathoms of warp are paid 
 out ; and by this the vessel is swung round, and then rides head 
 to the wind, a small mizen being set to keap her in that position. 
 
 One of the masters of a lugger showed us the way the nets hang 
 in the water ; the whole train being extended in nearly a straight 
 
YARMOUTH. 301 
 
 line, the big rope to which the corks are fastened being uppermost, 
 and the body of the net hanging perpendicularly in the water, 
 forming a wall of netting more than two thousand yards long and 
 about eight yards deep. The strain from the vessel serves to keep 
 the net extended, and the whole — vessel and nets together — drifts 
 along with the tide. 
 
 During the day the fish keep near the bottom ; but as night closes 
 in, should the weather be fine, they swim nearer the surface, and 
 attempting to swim through the barriers of net on each side of them, 
 a large number become entangled or meshed, their gills preventing 
 their return when once their heads have passed through the meshes. 
 
 After waiting two or three hours, the first net is hauled on board, 
 when, if it is found that a number of fish have been caught, the 
 whole of the net is hauled in by means of a capstan and the warp 
 to which the nets are fastened. The fish are then shaken out, and 
 the vessel beats up again to the spot from which the net was first 
 shot, and the process is repeated. 
 
 Mackerel nets have larger meshes, being twenty-four or twenty- 
 five to the yard. They are not so deep as the herring nets, but 
 they are twice as long, often extending to a distance of nearly two 
 miles and a half. Occasionally in one night a single boat has taken 
 from tw^elve to fourteen lasts of herrings, each last numbering ten 
 thousand fish; but of course the catch is uncertain. One boat, 
 however, has been known to bring in the enormous quantity of 
 twenty lasts. Some few years ago upw^ards of nine thousand lasts, 
 or nearly one hundred and twenty millions of fish, were caught by 
 the Yarmouth luggers. Several vessels bring in one hundred lasts 
 each. 
 
 As is well known, immediately the herring leaves the water it dies ; 
 hence the phrase, 'dead as a herring.' To preserve the fish, salt is 
 immediately thrown upon them in the boats ; they are carried to 
 the fish-house in open wicker baskets, called swills, where they are 
 delivered over to a man called a ' tower,' when they are placed on the 
 
303 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 salting floor. If they are to be used at home, they remain for only 
 twenty-four hours ; but if for the foreign markets, for several days. 
 They are afterwards washed in fresh water, and strung up by splits 
 passed through their gills, one tier below another, to about seven 
 feet from the ground. Oak-wood fires are then kindled under them 
 for fourteen days, if intended for the foreign market; but if for 
 home use, only twenty-four hours. The first are called red-herrings, 
 and the latter are known as bloaters. When suflSciently cured, they 
 are packed in barrels, each containing about seven hundred fish. 
 Between thirty and forty thousand barrels are sent to the Mediter- 
 ranean, but a far larger quantit}^ is used at home. Upwards of 
 two hundred boats, carrying two thousand men, are employed in 
 the herring fishery ; but many more are engaged on shore in curing 
 the fish. 
 
 Hearing that the deep-sea fishing was going on, papa and Uncle 
 Tom agreed to accompany one of the cutters which was about to 
 rejoin the fleet ; and as we had seen more of Yarmouth than of most 
 places we had visited, we returned on board to get ready to sail with 
 our friend. 
 
 Before long the cutter appeared, and we stood out of the harbour 
 after her. We sailed in company for two days, when on Sunday 
 morning, shortly after breakfast, we made out the fleet, with most 
 of the vessels near us hove to, a steamer being among them, stationary, 
 like the rest. In the distance were many other vessels, some standing 
 towards the fleet, others sailing in difierent directions, and a few 
 ships passing by. On getting near enough to distinguish their flags, 
 we found that several of them carried the 'Bethel' flag, a notice 
 that service was to be held on board. Both the yachts therefore 
 hove to, and under the guidance of our friend we pulled on board 
 one of the vessels. We were gladly received by the master, who 
 was going to conduct the service. The crews of several other vessels 
 having come on board, he invited us to join them, which we willingly 
 did, although the space was somewhat confined. Several hymns were 
 
YARMOUTH. 305 
 
 sung, the fine manly voices of the fishermen producing a good effect. 
 A chapter of God's Word was read, and a gospel address was given. 
 After service, the men returned on board their vessels with books and 
 tracts, which had been distributed among them. 
 
 We remained until the following day, that we might see the fish 
 caught. Our friend the skipper gave us a great deal of information 
 about trawlers. The Yarmouth fleet consists of several hundred 
 vessels, ranging from fifty to seventy tons. They have increased 
 rapidly. Fifty years ago, there were none belonging to Great 
 Yarmouth. They only form a small portion of English and Lish 
 trawling vessels. Many hundred sail leave the Thames, the Humber, 
 Scarborough, and Lowestoft, to fish in the North Sea ; while several 
 other places send out fifty or sixt^^ vessels to the English or Irish 
 Channels, manned by some thousands of fishermen. It is calculated 
 that they supply the English markets daily with three or four 
 hundred tons of fish. 
 
 The beam trawl consists of a triangular purse-shaped net, about 
 seventy feet long, forty wide at the mouth, gradually diminishing 
 to four or five at the commencement of the cod, as the smaller end 
 is called. This part of the trawl, about ten feet long, is of a uniform 
 breadth to the extremity, which is closed by a draw-rope, like the 
 string of a purse. The upper part of the mouth is made fast to a 
 beam about forty feet in length, which keeps the net open. This 
 beam is supported by two upright iron frames, three feet in height, 
 known as the trawl heads, or irons; the lower being flattened, to 
 rest on the ground. The under side of the net is made with a curved 
 margin. The outside is guarded from chafing, when the trawl is 
 being worked over the bottom, by pieces of old net. The meshes 
 vary in size according to the part of the trawl. Near the mouth, 
 they are four inches square, and in the cod, an inch and a quarter. 
 The trawl is hauled along by a bridle, that is to say, by two ropes 
 of about fifteen fathoms each, which are fastened to the ends of the 
 trawl heads, and unite at a warp, one hundred and fifty fathoms 
 
 u 
 
306 
 
 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 long, which serves to haul the net along. Trawling, as a^ rule, is 
 carried on in the direction of the tide^ although sometimes across 
 it, but never against a stream. It is usually kept down for one 
 tide, and its rate of progress is generally from half a mile to two 
 miles an hour faster than that of the stream. The fish caught are 
 turbot, skate, soles, though others are occasionally taken in the net. 
 The trawl can only be used with advantage on smooth ground ; and, 
 of course, a sandy bottom is preferred, not only from that being 
 the usual resort of several valuable kinds of ground fish, but from 
 the less danger there is on such a surface of tearing the net to 
 pieces. 
 
 Formerly, the fish as soon as they were caught, were sent to market 
 in fast-sailing cutters, but now steamers are generally employed ; the 
 fish, as soon as collected, being packed in ice. The trawlers them- 
 selves stay out for six weeks at a time, in all seasons of the year. 
 They are remarkably fine vessels, and capable of standing a great 
 deal of rough work ; and a hardier set of men than their crews can 
 scarcely anywhere be found. Steam trawlers are gradually coming 
 into use, being independent of wind and weather, and one boat is 
 capable of doing the work of several ordinary vessels. 
 
CHAPTEE XIIL 
 
 SAFE IN POET. 
 
 TEERING for Harwich after we had left the fleet, we passed, 
 at a distance, the handsome town of Lowestoft, from which 
 a considerable fishing-fleet sails, and then Aldborough, an 
 ancient seaport, with a number of new houses near it. 
 When off Orford, on the Suffolk coast, papa told us that 
 we were crossing the submarine telegraph line which runs 
 from thence to the Hague. We had also passed another, which extends 
 from Cromer to Emden. 
 
 Catching sight of the pretty httle village of Felixstowe — the houses 
 facing the sea on the north side — and of the neat watering-place of 
 Dovercourt on the left, we stood in between Landguard Fort, on the 
 north shore, and the long breakwater which runs out from the south, 
 when we crossed the mouth of the Orwell at the point where the Stour 
 falls into it, and came to an anchor off" Harwich, among a considerable 
 number of vessels, the guard-ship rising like a giant in their midst. 
 
 Though the town is small, the port has long been famous. We saw 
 several steamers start for different parts of the Continent. If I was 
 asked what was the chief article of sale in the town, I should say, 
 Shrimps. 
 
 We made a short excursion up the Stour, the banks of which are 
 
 U 2 
 
308 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 richly wooded ; and we also pulled up to Ipswich, where the Orwell 
 may be said to commence, for the river above the town is confined in 
 a narrow canal-like channel. On our return, while at anchor in the 
 harbour, an oyster-dredging vessel brought up close to us, and papa, 
 who was always on the look-out for information, invited the skipper 
 to come on board. 
 
 He gave us a good deal of curious information about the oyster. 
 They are obtained by means of a dredge, which consists of a flat bag, 
 the under part made of strong iron rings looped together by stout 
 wire. The upper side is merely a strong netting, as it is not exposed 
 to so much wear as the part which is drawn along the ground. The 
 mouth of this bag is fastened to an iron frame, with an opening about 
 four inches deep, extending the whole breadth of the bag. The lower 
 part of this frame is flattened and turned forward at such an angle as 
 to enable it to scrape the surface of the ground. To the ends of the 
 scraper two stout iron rods are firmly welded ; these, after curving 
 upwards, form the narrow sides of the mouth, and extend forward 
 four or five feet, when they unite at a handle, to which a stout warp 
 is made fast. The free end of the bag is secured to a stout stick, 
 which forms a convenient hold when the contents of the dredge are 
 being turned out. The weight of the dredge keeps it at the bottom, 
 and but little skill is required in working it. A good-sized boat can 
 work two dredges at one time, one from each quarter. 
 
 Oyster beds are often valuable property, and they are rented by 
 various companies. Rules have been made for the preservation of 
 oysters, and to allow of new beds being formed. Oysters require 
 nursing, and unless the beds were carefully preserved and recon- 
 structed, they would disappear. The beds are level banks of no great 
 depth, which are seldom or never uncovered by the tide. The first 
 important business, when preparing a bed on which the oyster may 
 spawn, or spat, as it is called, is to sprinkle over it broken plates and 
 pans and tiles, with empty shells and such like substances, to which 
 the embryo oyster immediately attaches itself This broken stuff is 
 
SAFE IN PORT. 309 
 
 called ' skultch.' The oyster deposits its spawn in July ; and a month 
 afterwards the young oysters can be seen sticking fast to the skultch 
 in confused clusters. Here they remain for two or three years, until 
 they become about the size of a shilling ; they are then taken up and 
 spread evenly over the surface. After another year they are once 
 more dredged up and scattered on the beds, where they are to remain 
 until full-grown. Seven years are required to bring an oyster to 
 maturity ; but many are dredged up and sold when only five years 
 old. The muddy shores of Essex are highly favourable to the breed- 
 ing of oysters ; and those are considered very fine which are dredged 
 from the beds at the mouth of the river Colne. 
 
 ' You see, sir,' said the skipper ; ' oysters ain't fit to eat except in 
 certain months. They are only prime from October to March. In 
 April they begin to sicken, they are of a milky white colour, though 
 fit enough to look at ; then they become of a dirty grey colour, and 
 then change to black by July, when they cast their spawn. After this 
 it takes them two months to get well again, and they ought to have 
 another month to fatten up, which brings us to October. It always 
 makes me angry-like when I see people eating oysters in August ; but 
 there are poachers at all times ready to fish them up ; and there 
 would be many more if they were not sharply looked after. It is 
 a curious fact, that while the beds on the coast of Kent make very 
 good nurseries for oysters, they do not grow as large and fat as they 
 do on the Essex coast. A little fresh water don't hurt them ; but 
 snow water kills them, as it does other fish, outright. To most people, 
 one oyster is just like another; but there are many different sorts, 
 and each sort has a fancy for a particular place. The oyster gives 
 us work for most months in the year; for when not fishing to sell, 
 we are either dredging up the young oysters or laying them down 
 again.' 
 
 It is calculated that one spawn oyster produces eight hundred 
 thousand young ; and if we suppose that of every five hundred oysters, 
 only one hundred breed during the season, and if the spat of only one 
 
310 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 of this latter number is shed, notwithstanding the great loss, the yield 
 will be ten thousand young oysters. 
 
 The oyster has many enemies besides man. There are creatures in 
 the sea which are very fond of them ; among these are the sea urchin, 
 the ' five finger,' and the ' whelk-tingle.' This creature sticks to the 
 shell, through which it pierces a small hole, and sucks out the delicate 
 morsel. One thing, however, is very certain — that the supply of 
 oysters has very greatly fallen ofi" of late years ; but whether the 
 fishermen are answerable for this, it is difficult to say. 
 
 Besides the numerous oyster-beds in shallow waters, there are deep- 
 sea beds both off" the English and Irish coasts. Upwards of three 
 hundred vessels, each of about twenty-five tons, and carrying six men, 
 hail from Colchester, Rochester, and Jersey, engaged specially on these 
 deep-sea beds. One is ten or twelve miles off" Great Grimsby, and 
 others exist in the English Channel. Most of the owners of the beds 
 of the shallow estuaries have a large capital invested. One company 
 alone spends three hundred pounds a month in wages, besides rent 
 and other expenses, and six hundred a year in w^atching against 
 poachers. It sends fourteen hundred bushels to a single dealer in 
 London, seven thousand to Kent, and ten thousand to Ostend and 
 Dunkirk. 
 
 This gave us some notion of the vast trade carried on in oysters 
 alone. We were told that they sell retail for the sum of twopence 
 each. I wonder people can venture to eat them. 
 
 We had a look at Dovercourt, filled with visitors, and with a bran- 
 new aspect, contrasting with venerable Harwich. We also managed 
 to pull up a narrow creek to Felixstowe, which I should describe as 
 consisting of a long row of Swiss-like cottages, with a few more 
 substantial-looking residences perched on the cliffs above. 
 
 Our stay at Harwich was short, though we had no longer any fear 
 of not getting round to the Isle of Wight before the equinoctial gales 
 commenced. We sailed early in the morning, papa being anxious to 
 get across the mouth of the Thames, either as far as Ramsgate or Deal, 
 
SAFE IN PORT. 311 
 
 to avoid the risk of being run down by vessels standing up or down 
 the river during the night. 
 
 ' But would they dare to do it ? ' asked Dick, when papa made the 
 remark. 
 
 ' They would not intend to do so ; but should the wind fall light, 
 we might not be able to get out of their way. I shall not forget the 
 remark made by a skipper on board a large steamer, when I was on 
 my way to pay a visit to some friends in Edinburgh. We ran stem 
 on into a schooner, which sank immediately ; and although I hurried 
 forward I was only in time to see her masts disappear. " Serves them 
 right ! " exclaimed the skipper, who was like myself a passenger. 
 "Serves them right; they should have kept a brighter look out!" 
 The poor fellows managed to scramble on board and to save their 
 lives.' 
 
 A short distance further we came off Walton-on-the-Naze, the 
 ' Naze ' being a nose or promontory, with the sea on one side and a 
 shallow backwater on the other. We had to keep a bright look out 
 while standing across the mouth of the Thames, having nearly a dozen 
 steamers in sight gliding swiftly along, and sailing vessels of all sizes, 
 from the magnificent Indiaman, or Australian merchant-ship, of a 
 thousand or more tons, down to the little coaster, measuring no more 
 than forty or fifty ; while yachts with sails white as snow were 
 darting hither and thither. Besides these, there were not a few 
 barges with yellow or tanned sails, coming out of the numerous 
 estuaries to the north of the river, some even bound round the North 
 Foreland, their deep weather-boards enabling them to beat to 
 windward in a way which, considering their build, at first looks 
 surprising. We agreed that we should not like to go to sea on board 
 one of them, laden almost to the gunwale, sothat the water must 
 wash over their decks ; but the fact is, they are completely battened 
 down, and are like casks ; so that the only place the sea can get into 
 is the little cabin aft, or the forepeak, in w^hich the crew, consisting of 
 a couple of men arid a boy, are compelled to live. The wind holding 
 
312 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 fair, we passed the North Foreland, standing out boldly into the sea ; 
 then sighted Broadstairs and Ramsgate. We ran inside of the 
 ill-famed Goodwin Sands, and came to an anchor in the Downs off 
 the low sandy beach of Deal. 
 
 The town extends a considerable way along the shore, and a fine 
 pier runs off from it. At the south end is a castle in a good state of 
 repair, although it would be more picturesque if it were a ruin. 
 About a mile further to the south we saw Walmer Castle, where the 
 Lord Warden of the Cinqj^ue Ports resides. It was here that the Duke 
 of Wellington spent the latter days of his life. We went on shorC;, 
 and had a good deal of talk with some of those magnificent fellows, 
 the Deal boatmen, who are probably the most daring seamen and 
 skilful pilots of any along the coast of England. 
 
 Deal has a thoroughly salt-water smack about it. ' Boys and even 
 girls seemed to be born seamen,' as Dick observed ; taking their part, 
 if not in navigating the boats, in launching or hauling them up on the 
 beach, and attending to them ; while the older part of the community 
 are resting from their labours. We were amused at a scene we 
 witnessed on the beach. Two old men_, aided by a big girl and a boy, 
 were engaged in hauling up a lugger by means of a windlass, which 
 they worked round and round with wonderful energy, putting to 
 shame a young fellow who sat on a coil of rope idly smoking his 
 pipe. 
 
 We were satisfied with a few hours spent at Deal. When once 
 more under weigh, we passed the South Foreland, towering up high 
 above our heads ; then rounding the cliffs on which Dover Castle 
 stands, three hundred and twenty feet above the sea, we stood into 
 the hurbour. 
 
 To the south of us, sheer out of the water, rose the Shakespeare 
 Cliff, where samphire was wont to grow; while between it and the 
 castle appeared the old town on either side of a steep valley, the 
 heights, as far as we could see them, covered with modern houses, 
 churches, and other public buildings. 
 
SAFE IN PORT. 315 
 
 On landing we went over the castle, which resembles, in some 
 respects, that of Gibraltar, as the fortifications are of an irregular 
 form^ to suit the nature of the ground. Excavated far below in the 
 chalk rock are numerous galleries, from which heavy guns would 
 thunder forth an unmistakeable warning to any foes attempting to 
 enter the harbour, or to flaunt their flags within range. Until a few 
 years ago both the inner and outer harbours were dry at low water 
 but now a fine new harbour has been formed. 
 
 Dover, papa reminded us, is one of the original Cinque Ports, so called 
 from their number — %nq. They consisted, in the time of William the 
 Conqueror, of Dover, Sandwich, Hythe, Eomney, and Hastings. To 
 these were afterwards added Winchelsea and Rye. These ports had 
 peculiar privileges giveli to them, on condition that they should 
 furnish the shipping required for the purposes of state. When ships 
 were wanted, the king issued to each of the ports a summons to 
 provide its quota. In Edward the First's time, the number they were 
 bound to supply was fifty-seven fully equipped ships. The period 
 of gratuitous service was fifteen days, after which they received 
 payment.- The chief ofi^icer of the Cinque Ports was called the Lord 
 Warden. It was considered a high dignity, and was long held by the 
 Duke of Wellington. 
 
 Many of their privileges have now been abrogated, as the ports 
 have long been relieved of their responsibilities. It would certainly 
 astonish the inhabitants of Winchelsea or Dover if the Queen should 
 inform them that they must send half a dozen ironclads to complete 
 the fleet off" Spithead ! 
 
 Sailing as close as we could under Shakespeare's Cliff*, we passed 
 Folkestone, standing partly in a hollow between two cliffs, and partly 
 up the side of that on the west. Then we rounded the headland of 
 Dungeness ; and sailing by Rye and Winchelsea, we passed Hastings, 
 renowned in history, a portion, looking old and venerable, joined to 
 the spic-and-span new town of St. Leonard's. 
 
 Running past Eastbourne, we arrived off" the bold, wild-looking 
 
316 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 point of Beachy Head. The weather becoming threatening, the wind, 
 which had hitherto been off shore, began to shift, and drew more and 
 more to the westward, the sky having anything but a pleasant 
 appearance. Dark clouds gathered in dense masses on the horizon, 
 and there was every indication of a heavy ?gale. Although so near 
 the end of our voyage, there appeared a probability of its being 
 continued for several days longer. 
 
 Papa having hailed Uncle Tom, it was agreed that we should stand 
 close-hauled on the starboard tack away from the land, and endeavour 
 to fetch Spithead. 
 
 We sighted two small places, Seaford and Newhaven, and could 
 make out Brighton, covering a wide extent of ground along the sea- 
 shore, and reaching the slopes of the hills and downs beyond. 
 
 ' By standing on we shall have Shoreham under our lee ; and we 
 can but run in there, if we find it impossible to beat to the westward 
 against the gale,' observed papa. ' It is not exactly the port in which 
 one would choose to be weather-bound, but we may be thankful if we 
 get there.' 
 
 The bright revolving light at Beachy Head shone forth astern. 
 We were gradually sinking it lower and lower ; at length we lost 
 sight of it altogether. , It might be our last night at sea, and I begged 
 papa to let us remain on deck. 
 
 He laughed. ' You may, as long as you like to keep awake ; but 
 you must take care not to topple overboard.' 
 
 Dick and I for some time walked the deck', believing that we were 
 keeping watch, and, of course, looking out on every side. 
 
 ' The wind's drawing more round to the south'ard/ I heard Truck 
 remark. ' If we go about, we shall soon catch sight of the Owers, 
 and one more tack will take us into St. Helen's.' 
 
 I was very anxious to see the light, because we had seen it before 
 starting to the westward, and it would show us really and truly 
 that we had gone right round England. I continued pacing up and 
 down, in spite of the pitching of our little craft, for I knew if I were 
 
BEACHY HEAD. 
 
SAFE IN PORT. 319 
 
 to stop for a moment, I should fall asleep. Of course we kept a sharp 
 look out, not only for the light, but for any vessels which might be 
 running up Channel or beating down it. At last I heard Truck say : 
 
 ' There's the light, sir ; ' and I made out, a little on our starboard 
 bow, the Owers Light. 
 
 ' Hurrah ! ' I exclaimed ; ' we have been right round England ! ' 
 
 ' I can't make it out,' said Dick, in a drowsy voice. ' We've been 
 sailing over the plain sea all the time, except when we mounted the 
 locks at the Caledonian Canal. I suppose it is all right though.' 
 
 Dick could say no more. I had to take him by the shoulders and 
 help him down the companion ladder. So sleepy was he, that he 
 could scarcely pull off his clothes, and would have turned in fully 
 dressed if I had not helped him. 
 
 Next morning, when we awoke and turned out on deck, we were in 
 sight of many a well-known scene. Ryde astern, Cowes on our port 
 quarter ; while with a fresh breeze, running past Calshot Castle, we 
 stood up the Southampton Water, and our voyage was over. 
 
 After breakfast, Uncle Tom, Jack, and Oliver,, came on board ; and 
 together we thanked God for having preserved us from the dangers, 
 seen and unseen, to which we had been exposed. We had indeed had 
 a pleasant time of it, and very naturally did not think of any of the 
 anxious moments we had occasionally gone through. 
 
 Uncle Tom and Jack had to return home at once; and they took 
 Dick with them, to. send him to his aunt and uncle. 
 
 ' The next few days won't be so pleasant,' he said, making a Jong 
 face. 'However, we shall meet at the end of them; and won't we 
 spin long yarns to the fellows at school ! ' 
 
 Papa, leaving us on boardj went at once to his agents, to whom he 
 had written, requesting them to make inquiries about Nat's friends. 
 After some time he returned, saying that no information had been 
 received, and that he would take Nat home with us. 
 
 Of this we were very glad. It made some amends to us for having 
 to go on shore and quit the pleasant life we had so long been leading 
 
320 
 
 A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND. 
 
 on board. We shook hands with Truck and all the crew, and in a 
 short time were seated in the railway-carriage rattling up to London. 
 We have ever since been expecting to hear of some of our little 
 guest's relatives coming to look for him ; but, as yet, no one has 
 appeared ; and as papa would never think of turning him adrift, we 
 believe that he will become one of us ; and, after he has been some 
 years at school, perhaps go into the navy, for which, strange to say, 
 he has a wonderful fancy. 
 
 OXFOBD: HORACE HART, PRINTER TO THE UNIVERSITY