CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE CIRCULAR 109 AUGUST, 1938 Woody Plants for Landscape Use in California HARRY W. SHEPHERD Cooperative Extension work in Agriculture and Home Economics, College of Agriculture, University of California, and United States Department of Agriculture cooperating. Distributed in furtherance of the Acts of Congress of May 8, and June 30, 1914. B. H. Crocheron, Director, California Agricultural Extension Service. THE COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA BERKELEY, CALIFORNIA CONTENTS PAGE Climate 3 Soils 4 Organic matter in soils 4 Lime in soils 4 Planting 4 Time of planting and early care 5 Pruning 5 Insect pest control 7 Disease control 8 Propagation 8 Vegetative propagation 10 Naturalized roadside planting 11 Grouping plants according to natural association 13 Facer, filler, and background planting 18 Use of natural plant associations 20 Selection of nursery stock 22 Plant grouping 23 Group 1 23 Group 2 24 Group 3 25 Group 4 25 Directions for use of the plant lists 26 Acknowledgments 48 LIST OF TABLES 1 . Trees, shrubs, and tropical plants for ornamental planting 28 2. Vines and climbers 43 3. Native shrubs for ornamental and roadside planting 45 WOODY PLANTS FOR LANDSCAPE USE IN CALIFORNIA HARRY W. SHEPHERD 1 The subject of woody plants for landscaping California homes is one of increasing interest. The choice of plant material is governed by many factors which must be considered in making selections for planting. The variable rainfall, the extremes of heat and cold, and the great difference in soil types, with other conditions, make the problem of selection in many cases a local one. The purpose of this circular is to direct attention to some of the more important factors influencing the choice of woody plants and to outline propagation methods. CLIMATE The United States Department of Agriculture Weather Bureau has divided the state of California geographically into four general sections according to rainfall : northeastern, northwestern, central, and southern. According to available records, the highest and the lowest average rainfall in the United States has been recorded within California. Usually high rainfall is recorded in the northwestern section of the state, whereas in certain parts of the southern section as low as 1.43 inches, for mean aver- age rainfall, has been noted. The rainfall is so variable that it is difficult to make definite plant selections based upon statistics. But even with the highest annual rainfall, such as 109.08 inches at Monumental, Del Norte County, irrigation will be found profitable during certain seasons. In this same region, as low an average rainfall as 14.63 inches has been recorded at Hornbrook, Siskiyou County. Obviously, less irrigation is necessary where rainfall is high ; nevertheless, many exotic plants will not grow successfully there. In most cases, also, drought-resistant plants are best adapted to sections of low average rainfall. Field observations indicate that there is a definite relation of rainfall to plant adaptation. The factors of low temperature and high temperature are also signifi- cant. Many evergreen shrubs will tolerate drought better at low tem- peratures, which are usually found at the higher elevations. Exotics introduced into these sections should, therefore, be tolerant of local con- ditions. Usually conifers tolerate low temperatures, but many species do not thrive well when exposed to high summer temperatures. Conifers may be successfully grown in interior valleys if sheltered by higher- growing and more heat-tolerant plants. Many evergreen shrubs will sur- vive a temperature as low as 16° Fahrenheit if the period of duration is 1 Associate Professor of Landscape Design. [3] 4 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cir. 109 not long or if it does not follow one of active growth. For this reason, plants should be "hardened off" by gradually lessening the amount of water before the period of probable freezing, and thereby preparing them to withstand low temperatures without serious damage. SOILS There are many complex problems arising from soil conditions. It is difficult to assign the cause of favorable growth in the case of many plants to a restricted soil class. There are a few general facts which may be helpful in the study of plant adaptation. Many plants seem to favor sandy soils, while others grow best in the heavier soils. Examples of the former class are acacias, heaths, and the Australian tea-tree, while in the latter class we have the rose as an outstanding example. General soil conditions should, therefore, be observed and plants selected for condi- tions which are naturally most favorable for growth. Organic Matter in Soils. — Organic matter is usually lacking in Cali- fornia soils and the quantity to maintain in soils may vary. Where the supply is sufficient, heavy soils are not likely to check, and light or sandy soils become more retentive of moisture. The supply may be maintained by the growing as green-manure crops of legumes, such as yellow clover, cowpeas, or vetch, which thrive under varying climatic conditions. Stable manure is also a source of organic material, of which 10 tons per acre is not excessive when the soil is being prepared for planting. The organic matter in soils may largely determine their fertility ; this may, however, be supplemented by fall and spring applications of commercial ferti- lizers, according to the requirements of the plants. Lime in Soils. — Many ornamental plants thrive best in lime soils and have been called "lime-loving" because of their behavior in the presence of this compound. On the other hand, heaths, azaleas, rhododendrons, and many of the conifers, grow best in acid soils. Where neutral soils are found, heath improves with an application of aluminum sulfate at the rate of ^ pound per square yard. Commercial aluminum sulfate may be specified. Agricultural sulfur may be applied at the rate of 4 pounds per thousand square feet for the purpose of creating acid soil conditions. In most cases ground limestone or gypsum may be applied for the pur- pose of improving the physical condition of heavy clay soils, and the amount of application should be determined by local conditions. PLANTING Thorough preparation of the soil is essential to good growth. Plowing or spading, leveling, disking, harrowing, dragging, and the application of organic matter are practices which should be carefully planned. When the leveling is done after foundation excavations, only the top soil should Woody Plants for Landscape Use 5 be replaced on the surface. This is best done by moving the top soil to one side, and if insufficient in quantity, additional surface loam should be hauled from the nearest source. Digging holes for planting is an art which varies according to the methods practiced by different gardeners. Some gardeners maintain that square holes are best in soils that cannot be thoroughly worked, for the roots emerging from the ball of earth are more likely to strike root in the surrounding soil in the corners of the hole. This would apply, however, only to the very heavy clay soils. "When uniformly deep soils have been well prepared for planting, holes need be dug only large enough to in- clude the roots. The most important consideration in digging holes in poor soils is to provide for a layer of at least 18 inches of good soil be- tween the sides of the hole and the "balled" plant. In case holes are to be dug in rock, hardpan, or exceptionally heavy soils, drainage should be provided by the use of agricultural tile. Time of Planting and Early Care. — November and December are the best months for planting provided that the ground is in good physical condition. Plants established at this time have the advantage of natural rainfall ; they should not be planted, however, when the soil is very wet and sticky. Plants from Australia and New Zealand should be planted during April or May, after the danger of late frost is over. In the milder coastal sections, the length of the season for planting is considerably ex- tended. Woody plants set out during November or December should be irri- gated whenever the intervals between rainfall are too great to maintain the best moisture conditions. Such plants established at the end of the rainy season should be irrigated every two or three days until the volume of earth surrounding the plant is thoroughly wet. Later, the interval of application of water may be lengthened according to the climatic con- ditions. Washing the foliage during the late afternoon will aid the plant in surviving the shock of transplanting. The roots of all deciduous shrubs and trees should be protected by a covering of wet burlap when being distributed for planting in the field. PRUNING Many shrubs should have a third to a half of their growth removed at planting time. This applies usually to broad-leaved evergreens and de- ciduous shrubs but not to conifers. This practice is for the purpose of reducing the top growth in proportion to the root system, and thus forc- ing new bud development on the lower branches, and is especially ad- vantageous for ground-cover plants. In some cases, the pruning is for the 6 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cir. 109 purpose of thinning out or shaping the plants. Removal of weak or dead wood is essential for healthy, vigorous growth. For ornamental trees, it is just as essential to establish a structural framework as in the case of orchard fruits. It is usually best to permit the low buds along the main stem or trunk to develop during the first season of growth because the mature leaves nourish the adjacent bark. This will influence the strength and size of the trunk. The spacing of the scaffold branches should also be determined the second season. The vigor of plants during early growth may largely depend upon healthy leaf growth which, when maintained upon low branches, provides shade for trunk protection and sustenance for development. Pruning of flowering shrubs should usually follow the period of bloom. The type of flowering wood should be observed ; for example, if flowers are produced on old wood, thin out after the flowers fade. If quality is desired, prune severely; if quantity is required, prune lightly. For the fruiting and berried shrubs which are so attractive during the fall, pruning becomes a thinning-out process ; or it may be simply the removal of weakened growth and the balancing of the structure by cut- ting back strong-growing shoots to permit the smaller branches to de- velop normally without disturbing the terminal growth. The pruning practice should be modified according to the form, habit, and vigor of the plants. Berried shrubs should be thinned after the period of bloom. Shrubs and trees may be pruned for reduction of size ; the cut, however, should be made close to lateral branches to avoid unsightly stubs and distorted forms. In cases where propagation material is desired, pruning may be sched- uled to follow the flowering period so as to provide cuttings at the time when the tissue will be most apt to strike root. Cuttings taken after bloom in the fall are also well filled with nutrients supplied by matured leaves and are usually short-jointed and of good size. Tip cuttings, taken before fruit setting, should be strong and from fruit-bearing wood. Much cutting back may be avoided if shrubs are selected for locations demanding low growth. For example : Creeping cotoneaster {Cot oncost er adpressa) planted under a low window, should be preferred to the silver- leaf cotoneaster (Cotoneaster pannosa) which would require cutting back, with resultant loss of berried effect. When flowering shrubs are pruned for spring bloom, or in the case of those bearing their blossoms on terminal growth of new wood, as with roses, the plants should be pruned just before the buds swell ; wounds heal or callus more rapidly at this time of year. There are many deciduous shrubs, flowering in the early spring, which should not be pruned reg- ularly. An example is the bridal wreath (Spiraea prunifolia). No gen- Woody Plants for Landscape Use 7 eral rule for pruning plants may be applied in all cases. Those who know plants and study the habits of growth will prune cautiously and note the results; it is better not to prune if in doubt. Vines may be pruned during the fall after the maturity of the leaves. Vines, such as wisteria, may be pruned and trained as is done with the grape. Pruning the vigorous growth back to three or four bud spurs develops new growth for spring bloom. During the growing season, ex- cessive growth may be cut back to buds or lateral shoots. Frequently the vegetative vigor stimulated by excessive application of manure may re- sult in loss of bloom. Excessive irrigation may cause similar results. The checking of the sap flow by twisting a wire around the base of a wisteria plant may promote bloom. The wire should later be removed. INSECT PEST CONTROL The control of insects and diseases affecting woody ornamentals is im- portant. However, it is the purpose here only to emphasize the impor- tance of pest control ; other circulars and bulletins treat the subject more fully, describing and illustrating the pests and advising means of con- trol. 2 Woody ornamentals which are hosts to particularly injurious in- sects or diseases should be avoided. For the control of sucking insects such as aphids, scales, mealybugs, and thrips, a so-called "contact spray" is necessary. Many soft-bodied and exposed sucking insects may be destroyed or washed from their place of feeding by applying a stiff spray of water during the shade of the day. For many partially hidden insects, such as thrips and red spider, usually found on the undersides of leaves, light oils or summer sprays may be applied according to the directions listed by the manufacturers. A com- monly used spray for aphids and other small sucking insects is nicotine sulfate. In applying sprays one should be thorough and comply with every precaution so as to avoid damage to the tender growth of the plant. A spraying program must be arranged according to the proper interval, for too frequent spraying may cause damage to the plants. Sprays are applied either in solution or as dusts. Usually solution sprays are more desirable because the spread may be immediately observed. For all suck- ing insects, it is important to spray the body of the insect, whether found above or beneath the leaf. Chewing insects may usually be readily detected in either their larval or adult forms and they should be controlled in the early stages of de- velopment, when less poison is required. One of the most dependable stomach poisons for this class of insects is basic arsenate of lead. There 2 More detailed information on control of insect pests will be found in: Essig, E. 0., and W. M. Hoskins. Insects and other pests attacking agricultural crops. California Agr. Ext. Cir. 87:1-156. 1934. 8 California Agricultural Extension Service [ Cir - 109 are other satisfactory poisons on the market which are sold under vari- ous trade names. Basic arsenate of lead is usually applied at the rate of 4 pounds per 100 gallons of water ; or for a small quantity, a level tea- spoonful to a quart of water. For the night-feeding pests such as snails, slugs, sowbugs, or cutworms, specially prepared poison baits are spread over the ground and should be used according to directions. Failure of satisfactory control may usually be attributed to the distribution of insufficient bait. Snails and slugs may also be combated by seeking them at night with the aid of a flashlight. Alum sprinkled in light barriers around plants is detrimental to the activities of slugs and snails. DISEASE CONTROL Plant diseases are difficult to identify and therefore hard to control. Ac- cording to determination, the disease may be of either bacterial or fungus origin. A commonly known fungus is "rose mildew," which is controlled by summer-oil application once every 10 days throughout the growing season. A bacterial disease common to some plants of the rose family is fire blight. This is now controlled by cutting back well beyond the in- fected parts and with each cut, disinfecting the shears by swabbing them with a 1-1,000 solution of cyanide of mercury. There are many diseases common to ornamentals and those most injurious in certain localities should be avoided by selecting plants which are not susceptible or by planting resistant varieties. Disease may be indicated by discoloration of bark or foliage. In some cases, the yellow foliage may indicate the lack of some mineral, as iron. Discoloration of foliage may also indicate a root trouble of insect or disease origin, or may indicate unbalanced soil nutri- ents or unsatisfactory moisture conditions. Careful plant husbandry in maintaining cultural conditions essential to normal growth will prevent or overcome many pests and diseases. PROPAGATION 3 There are two general methods practiced in the propagation of woody plants: namely, by seeds and by cuttings. Seeds should be harvested when mature, but before they have had opportunity to shatter. In only 3 Some references useful in the study of plant propagation are: Hansen, C. J., and E. R. Eggers. Propagation of fruit plants. California Agr. Ext. Cir. 96:1-52. 1936. Hartley, Carl. Damping-off in forest nurseries. U. S. Dept. Agr. Dept. Bui. 934: 1-99. 1921. Laurie, Alex, and L. C. Chadwick. The modern nursery. 494 p. The Macmillan Com- pany, New York, N. Y. 1931. Mirov, N. T., and C. J. Kraebel. Collecting and handling of the seeds of Califor- nia wild plants. California Forest and Range Exp. Sta. Forest Research Note No. 18. 27 p. 1937. (Mimeo.) Woody Plants for Landscape Use 9 a few cases are special methods of storage necessary, as for example pack- ing in ground charcoal. Most propagators are familiar with the common methods of sowing seeds. The method of sowing seeds used will depend somewhat upon the con- ditions necessary for germination. Some seeds are protected by a hard bony covering and their germination is hastened by stratification in moist sand or loose soil. This consists in placing a layer of seed and a layer of soil alternately, and watering the mass occasionally for the purpose of softening the seed coat. Germination may sometimes be hastened by placing the seed in cold storage at 40° Fahrenheit for two or three months. Rose seeds, for example, have responded to this treatment. The germination of certain hard-coated and oily seeds such as those of the acacia maybe hastened by soaking in hot water, at 150°-160° Fahrenheit for an hour or more. Many common seeds do not have a hard coat and therefore no special treatment may be required. A general rule for sowing seeds is : "Do not plant seeds deeper than three times their own diameter. "A good seedbed soil consists of equal quantities of leaf mold, sand, and garden loam. The product of a compost pile with a little sand added is equally good. A compost pile may be made by accumulating organic matter such as weeds, grass clippings, and leaves, over which a layer of soil is placed. Sprinkling 2 or 3 pounds of ammonium sulfate over the pile hastens decomposition and increases the fertilizing value. When the compost is formed, the various layers should be thoroughly mixed and screened for use. Seeds may be broadcasted or sown in rows. The care given seeds after sowing will affect germination. Very small seeds should be lightly cov- ered with a uniform layer of finely screened soil. Not all large seeds are sown to the depth stated in the preceding paragraph; exceptions are seeds of avocados and oaks. In the case of the former, the seed is placed with one-half its length above the surface of the soil. Acorns are covered with a burlap sack, or moist leaf mold, until sprouted and then sown one per pot with the acorns adjusted according to the direction of the pri- mary root. For some seeds, such as cactus, screened German or Holland peat fur- nishes a good medium for germination when compressed in a flat. The fine seed may be sown broadcast and lightly covered with clean, sharp sand. Rooted seedlings may be readily "lifted" from such a medium and they are less liable to damping-off diseases. Damping-off may be prevented in many cases by applying fungicides at the time of sowing. For pines, the organic mercuric compounds have given good results. Eight grams of zinc sulfate in 250 cubic centimeters of water applied to each square foot ( f soil has controlled the fungi on 10 California Agricultural Extension Service [ Cir - 109 pine seedlings ; this control measure is cited as an example to show the possibility of control if practiced at the time of sowing. Vegetative Propagation. — Growing plants by vegetative methods is known as cuttage. Leaves, buds, or layers may be used. These are general methods of growing a definitely selected strain true to type. Leaf cuttings are made only of succulent plants such as begonias, sedums, and cactuses. The medium usually used is clean, sharp sand, or a mixture of sand and Holland or German peat. Bottom heat hastens the development of roots and the small growing plants should be early "pricked out" for transplanting. By "pricking out" is meant the lifting of the rooted cuttings in such a way as to prevent damage to the root system. Budding is the method of selecting a dormant bud which is inserted into a stock by means of various cuts as, for example, a "T" cut. This method is usually practiced during the growing season. Roses are often propagated in this manner. Seedlings of a resistant stock, such as the wild single roses, are used and the budding operation is performed dur- ing the month of June. Inarching is recommended only as a means of saving a tree when it has been damaged to such an extent that its life is endangered. It con- sists in planting a seedling near the tree or in some cases several seedlings, and inserting the tapered upper portion into the living tissues of the stock as in bridge grafting. Large natural inarches have been observed under forest conditions. The propagation of ornamentals by cuttings is a method resorted to when quick results at little expense are desired. The chief medium for rooting cuttings is clean, sharp, river sand. It is important to have washed sand to insure the removal of all organic material. Bottom heat, provided by hotbeds, hot water pipes, or electric coils will hasten the development of roots. Cuttings should be made from fresh material and always by means of a sharp knife. Some cuttings may be made, as grape cuttings, by means of sharp pruning shears. The cuttings should be so made that the least surface is exposed for callusing. Softwood cuttings are prepared from the succulent new wood. These cuttings should always be placed in clean, sharp sand and usually root best with bottom heat. Tip cuttings are the growing tips of the new growth, and are classed as softwood. Hardwood or firm-wood cuttings are made from the more mature wood, which should be selected from the lower part of a twig which has many leaves or nodes. Some propagators insist that the best results are obtained when the cutting is of a limited size, as the size of a common lead pencil. There are exceptions to this practice, as in the case of cuttings Woody Plants for Landscape Use 11 made of the London planetree (Platanus acerifolia) and the evergreen tamarix (Tamarix articulata) ; with these, cuttings 1 inch in diameter and 1 foot long have developed into the strongest plants. The cuttings should usually be made soon after the leaves are mature ; this applies to deciduous trees and some deciduous shrubs. For example, when the cuttings are made of the London planetree, the wood of the present season's growth should be used, and selected in the fall. These cuttings of mature wood, 12 to 14 inches long, may then be tied in bun- dles and inverted in sand for the purpose of callusing. During February or March, they may be placed in the nursery 18 inches apart in rows 3 feet apart. Each cutting should be set with two-thirds of its length in the ground and immediately irrigated. No cutting should be planted which is not callused. "When cuttings are planted, they should be well firmed in sandy loam. Experience at the State Forestry Nursery, Davis, California, shows that planetree cuttings die readily from heat or dry winds. The application of water each week or every two weeks later in the sea- son will develop well-rooted stock. The same general method applies to the cuttings of the evergreen tamarix except that these cuttings need not be callused and should be planted directly where desired, for they do not stand transplanting. Irrigation at regular intervals is required. For flowering shrubs, propagation by cuttings, if done during the period following bloom, usually gives satisfactory results. In most cases the leaves should be retained when the cutting is made. Only when the leaves wilt soon after the twig is severed should the cutting be stripped of foliage. The leaves in this case should be cut off, not pulled off. The cutting should be packed in the sand or soil at least two-thirds its length. In some cases other media than sand may be used to advantage. Screened German peat moss mixed with sand in the proportion of 1 :3 by volume, is an excellent medium for rooting tip and softwood cuttings. Heaths are most readily grown from tip cuttings placed in a medium composed of % sand and % German peat moss. The flat in which the cut- tings are placed (one-half their length) should be covered with a plate of glass; this protection prevents excessive transpiration of moisture. Cuttings of oleander are readily rooted in jars of water in which is placed ground charcoal to keep the water pure. The cuttings of many species may be rooted in water. NATURALIZED ROADSIDE PLANTING Valuable lessons in shrubbery and tree grouping may be gained from nature. Many native woodland tree and shrubbery groups clearly demon- strate unity of plant composition. Unity is realized when an analysis of these groups reveals one predominant species, as, for example, the live 12 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cir. 109 oak (Quercus agrifolia) . The restful and pleasing quality of naturalistic planting arises from simplicity of grouping and the relation of trees to harmonious masses of shrubbery. With so many fine examples of natural plant association on every hand, one may wonder why the natural method of planting rural highways is not more generally adopted. There seems to be little justification, aesthetic or practical, for the avenue method of tree planting throughout rural districts. Fig. 1. — A beautiful tree of native madrono (Arbutus Menziesii) , adapted to park and home grounds. This specimen is on the Capital grounds at Sacramento. The framing of rural landscapes by naturally arranged and adapted trees, is most effective from the point of view of design. However, what about the practical considerations ? Formally planted highway trees necessitate periodic pruning to main- tain uniform shape and size and also to prevent the hazard of overhang- ing limbs. Roadside trees in regions of scant rainfall also require more water as they develop. On the other hand, these same trees arranged in groups reduce pruning to a minimum, for there is no need to maintain each tree as an individual specimen and irrigation is also provided at less expense. Owing to mutual protection, groups are less liable to damage from winds. There may also be less economic loss from shade and tree competition to adjacent agricultural fields and orchards. Naturally grouped trees add to the safety and comfort of the operator of an automobile. On north and south rural highways, the distraction caused by flickering shadows due to trees closely planted at regular in- tervals, is very noticeable to car operators. This distraction, which is annoying and hazardous, would be eliminated by natural tree grouping. Woody Plants for Landscape Use 13 Natural grouping reveals the rural landscape most effectively from a scenic point of view and sufficient practical considerations have been out- lined to indicate the economy of natural composition and association in roadside planting. i%. ■BBf r - *; -»*•- --.^j V M iffr ?' « .« - aaawsi pw§"*'' —PI ™ . ,, .., Fig. 2. — A pink-flowering horsechestnut (Aesculus carnea) for a deciduous street or accent tree. The width of parking shown here, which is 5 feet, should be the minimum used with street trees for satisfactory development. GROUPING PLANTS ACCORDING TO NATURAL ASSOCIATION The proper grouping of plant materials is an art that few gardeners master. Everywhere you will find the hit-and-miss method, the purpose of which seems to be the display of as large a variety as possible, with little or no thought for the effect as a whole. The study of the essential principles of plant composition should result in good taste in the group- ing of shrubs. It should be understood, however, that many plants are selected for specimens or for individual planting to serve some special purpose in planting composition. Examples of such are given in figures 1-5. In grouping use those plants which thrive well in similar soil condi- 14 California Agricultural Extension Service [ Cir - 109 tions. Combine shrubs and trees which produce harmony in leaf texture and structure of branch. Generally speaking, select those plants which belong to the same genus or botanical group (fig. 6). Arrange shrubs which in habit of growth merge together, appearing as a single large specimen. Variety may not always produce interest. Intricacy tends to develop interest by a disposition of objects which, by partial conceal- ment, excites curiosity. Fig. 3. — Sweetgum (Liquidambar styraciflua) , a tree deserving more general planting. The tree shown has been properly trained, with the lower branches maintained for the purpose of invigorat- ing and protecting the trunk. The color of foliage is striking in the fall. We should define texture as the size of leaf ; structure as the arrange- ment of branch. Fineness of leaf texture may be utilized to give the illusion of distance. The shrubs or trees with large leaves planted near a point of view with those bearing smaller leaves farther away, tends to increase the distance effect by the general reduction of the scale of the leaves. The structure or arrangement of the branches is important since regularity will give a plant a certain symmetrical form (fig. 7). The conifers of regular shape do not group well because each possesses an Woody Plants for Landscape Use 15 individual form ; and shrubs of stiff regular form are not usually adapted for natural groups for the same reason. Habit of growth is another important factor to be considered in group- ing ornamentals. By habit of growth we mean that a plant is prostrate, Fig. 4. — Chinese wisteria (Wisteria sinensis) and strawberry tree (Arbutus Unedo), a vine and a tall shrub widely adapted for planting in California. trailing, upright, horizontally branched, twining, or climbing. Form has already been referred to and concerns the shape of the growth, whether it is round-headed, vase form, conical, or columnar. Round-headed and vase-form trees group better than others. Columnar or conical specimens may be used for contrast but do not group or mass well. 16 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cir. 109 The term "foundation planting" has often been wrongly interpreted. The practice of surrounding small buildings by "close-formation" shrub- bery planting is the result of an often-taught principle of filling in the angle formed by the vertical line of the building and the horizontal ground line. This mass planting too frequently includes several popular varieties of disassociated plants. Each home-grounds plan is an indi- vidual problem and planting arrangement should be determined by Fig. 5. — An evergeen vine, winter wisteria, (Millettia megasperma) , and California privet hedge (Ligustrum ovali folium) , planted at the back door of a California home in an interior val- ley. In mild, protected places this evergreen vine thrives, though it is listed as somewhat tender. careful study and the application of good taste in design. One cannot state definitely that all structures of similar style should have mass plant- ing at the foundation, for there are other factors such as topography, adjacent development, outlook, background, and personal wishes of the dweller to take into consideration. The important idea should be attrac- tive and useful home surroundings. The registration of tracery shadows against a blank wall, the vista of distant hill through windows shaded by foliage supported by gnarled or twisted and curved colorful tree limbs, Woody Plants for Landscape Use 17 S . '^-f ," Fig. 6. — Natural composition. Species of Ceanotlius are well adapted to road- side planting and natural shrubbery groups. The species shown here is divari- catus; it has white flowers. Fig. 7. — Pleasing effect produced by planting coniferous shrubs as fore- ground. In the left foreground is Juniperus sdbina var. tamariscifolia and back of it, Juniperus chinensis var. pfitzeriana. The plants in the vases are Thuja occidentalis var. pumila. Any other species of the same genus would be equally satisfactory. The tall specimens for accent effects are Thuja occidentalis var. pyramidalis, although T. orientalis var. pyramidalis could be substituted for the same purpose. 18 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cir. iop Fig. 8. — A well-planted small home. The planting scheme includes foundation shrubs, porch vines, background trees, screening or border shrubbery, and open lawn. Fig. 9. — Attractive foundation planting for a southern California home, composed of the following: olive tree; Cotoneaster microphylla, under the window, and Arbutus Unedo and kumquat serving as shrubbery. seasonal bloom along garden pathways — these and other effects may en- able the home owner to realize his objective in planting composition (figs. 8 and 9). Facer, Filler, and Background Planting. — The accepted terms em- ployed to describe the position of a shrub in a naturalistic border are facer, filler, and background. A facer shrub may be one which is ever- Woody Plants for Landscape Use 19 green and is diffused and interlocked with other specimens to form a mass effect, and is the shrub nearest the observer from the lawn (fig. 10) . The requirements for the facer shrub are neatness, adaptability, and ever- greenness. The filler shrub may be one which is deciduous and is there- fore partially hidden during periods of unattractive display by the Fig. 10. — Border shrubbery. Australian tea-tree (Leptospermum laevigatum) and Abelia grandi- flora, the lower shrub with white bloom, are two fine shrubs for the California home grounds. The foreground shows a planting of Indian straw- berry (Duchesnea indica) . foreground facer shrubbery. So-called "leggy" shrubs may be utilized for accent purposes. By "accent" is meant an element which will attract attention to itself because of form, texture, bloom, fruit, or position. Sup- porting the two groups described is the background shrub, which may be tall, evergreen, and of dark foliage. The variation of skyline depends somewhat upon the selection of the shrubs. The background shrub should 20 California Agricultural Extension Service C Cir - 109 also be one which is somewhat more drought-tolerant since it occupies a more remote position in respect to the watered lawn area. The chief func- tion of background planting is effective display of foreground color in bloom and fruit. This classification of plant composition may lead one into the practice of planting shrubbery groups according to the "row" system and a series of facer, filler, and background rows may result in an obviously artificial planting. To avoid this regularity a single variety may be massed, with the inclusion of an occasional accent plant, to develop a pleasing compo- sition. Sloping ground may be used to advantage in proper arrangement. Regularity in arrangement may be prevented by occasionally bringing Fig. 11. — Natural composition. A restful, naturally arranged private garden, the species for which would grow anywhere in California except in districts of high rainfall or killing frosts. Pleasing shadows of vigorous shrubbery growth, an open lawn, and fine balance mark this composition. In the remote background is eucalyptus; immediately in front is Acacia longifolia; and in the right fore- ground is Abelia grandiflora. background shrubs out into the "facer" position (fig. 11). Naturalistic composition of shrubbery borders may be accomplished by planting fewer varieties, and thereby providing some dominating element and achieving greater unity. Use of Natural Plant Associations. — Natural plant association implies the use of shrubs, as along rural roadsides, which are related to native types found in the region. Attractive group planting for rural homes may also follow native composition. There are many advantages in estab- lishing plants related to native groups : The first important advantage may be that there is less danger of introducing injurious insect and dis- Woody Plants for Landscape Use 21 ease pests; another advantage is the little care necessary to maintain satisfactory growth, provided the most suitable forms characteristic of the region are selected. As has been stated previously, harmony of plant composition may be provided by selecting one dominant plant for the mass effects. Rural roadside planting (fig. 12) is a special problem demanding care and planning. Natives should constitute the major planting in regions Fig. 12. — Natural composition. The charm of the rural roadside shall not pass. Native syca- mores, oaks, and fine clumps of toyon (Photinia arbutifolia) are here shown in pleasing effect. which support attractive vegetation; the additional planting should merely supplement that found successfully growing in the region. This work of supplementing and establishing these roadside mass effects may be done prior to the period of rainfall. During drought periods the plants should be sufficiently irrigated to assure growth. Naturally occurring shrubbery and tree groups should be studied with respect to soils, drain- age, topography, and vistas to determine the spacing and ultimate com- 22 California Agricultural Extension Service t ClR - 109 position. It is difficult to list plants for roadside planting because of the wide variation in local conditions. A general rule for guidance is to follow the natural trend for any given locality. SELECTION OF NURSERY STOCK In case nursery plant material is purchased, the best stock should be selected and from reliable and long-established firms. Plants come from the nursery as "balled," bare-root, boxed, flatted, potted, or in cans. Some Fig. 13. — Pot-bound roots of a rosy riceflower (Pimulea ferruginea), two years after planting. The condition of the root system indicates that the plant was pot-bound at the time of purchase. plants are purchased as budded or grafted stock. Most deciduous trees and shrubs may be secured during the late fall and winter or during the dormant period in a bare-root condition. The roots should be examined ; usually the best plants will have the most roots. Evergreen shrubs and trees should be in pots, boxes, cans, or balled, with soil mass secured by tightly wrapped burlap. Large specimens may be purchased in boxes. Select plants that are not pot-bound. If you ask the nurseryman to do so, he will demonstrate the rooted condition of the potted plant. All balled stock should be established — that is, dug long enough to indicate that it will continue to grow when planted. Plants should be specified that have Woody Plants for Landscape Use 23 been recently balled, and not those which have been held over two years, which necessitates re wrapping with burlap. Some hints on selection of nursery stock are given in figures 13-15. *<-«■> * j % J ^^^M ' W ^/^^^V^iiPC ^i^ * /l \f "^T ,^k*t J*^H#^lTx/7 JF K . Fig. 14. — Brown-eyed rockrose (Cistus ladaniferus var. macula- tus), showing the result of the original pot-bound condition two years after planting. Note the limited root system in relation to the top growth. PLANT GROUPING A few suggested groupings, by way of example, are given below. One should keep in mind texture or fineness of leaf, structure or arrangement of branches, habit of growth, and form as the chief considerations in grouping. The following-named shrubs and trees may compose pleasing groups if appropriately placed. Group One plants Malwnia aquifolium (Oregon hollygrape) 15 Photinia arbutifolia (toyon) 5 Ceanothus arboreus (tree lilac) 1 Quercus agrifolia (live oak) 1 Arbutus Unedo (strawberry tree) 1 24 California Agricultural Extension Service [ Cir - 109 It will be noted that in most cases odd numbers of each variety are selected; this is done to avoid regularity so that when planting, the ama- teur gardener can more readily plant naturally. All plants in this group are evergreen, with the foliage bright in Mahonia and toyon, moderately bright in Ceanothus, and dark in Arbutus. The Ceanothus has the most regular habit, and it develops a skyline effect and attractive blue bloom in the spring. For planting near the Quercus agrifolia or oak, all the plants are tolerant of shade. All of the shrubs make good ground covers, Fig. 15. — At the left is a cull budded rose, which should not be planted be- cause of a poor root system. At the right is a two-year-old, field-grown, budded rose of No. 1 stock, with top pruned and roots cut, ready to plant. and have similar requirements with respect to soil and moisture condi- tions. The Mahonia should be spaced 4 feet apart in the foreground ; the toyon, planted 7 feet apart, is massed with the Ceanothus in the back- ground. Group Two plants (1) Cotoneaster pannosa (silverleaf cotoneaster) 5 (2) Cotoneaster Franchetii (Franchet cotoneaster) 9 (3) Cotoneaster Earroviana 3 (4) Cotoneaster adpressa (creeping cotoneaster) 10 (5) Cotoneaster rotundifolia (roundleaf cotoneaster) 3 (6) Cotoneaster microphylla (rockspray) 35 (7) Cotoneaster horizontaMs (rock cotoneaster) 7 Woody Plants for Landscape Use 25 This is a group for a gently sloping bank ; the grayness of foliage en- hances distance. All shrubs in the group belong to the same genus, though certain of them predominate. The taller shrubs, Nos. 1, 2, and 3, should be placed in the background ; Nos. 4, 5, 6, and 7 are suggested as fore- ground plants and make a good ground cover. All are berried shrubs for fall effects and tolerate similar soil conditions. No. 2 can be permitted to "drift" to the foreground in one place, thus creating a "bay" in the plant- ing. No. 4 is excellent for "flowing" over a low wall. Nos. 4, 6, and 7 should be planted 5 feet apart and the others 9 feet apart. Group Three plants (1) Acacia pravissima (screwpod acacia) 1 (2) Acacia Baileyana (Bailey acacia) 2 (3) Acacia verticillata (whorl-leaved acacia) 15 (4) Acacia decurrens var. dealbata (silver wattle) 1 (5) Leptospermum laevigatum (Australian tea-tree) 7 This evergreen group is primarily for quick results ; the plants are adapted to well-drained, sandy soils, limited water supply, and coastal conditions as in the San Francisco Bay region. Nos. 1, 2, and 4 will pro- vide a succession of spring bloom. No. 4, a 50-foot tree, is for variation in skyline. The dominant group is the darker foliage of No. 3. No. 5 lends interest in variety and is gray-green. One of species No. 1 could be placed as a highlight among No. 3. All these plants should be spaced 9 to 12 feet Group Four plants (1) Fraxinus velutina (Arizona ash) 1 (2) Pyracantha coccinea var. Lalandii (Laland firethorn) . . 3 (3) Pyracantha Gibbsi var. yunnanensis (Yunnan firethorn) 15 (4) Spiraea prunifolia (bridal wreath) 7 (5) Weigela florida (pink weigela) 1 No. 1 is a deciduous tree for shade and skyline effect ; No. 2 is a tall, orange-berried shrub, tolerant of interior- valley conditions ; No. 3 is the dominant planting, of spreading habit and bearing orange-scarlet ber- ries. No. 4 is for white spring bloom and a highlight to the group ; No. 5 is for the purpose of contrast and for pink spring bloom. It may be the end shrub of the group among a few of the spiraeas. This group has spring bloom and fall color of fruits. The shrubs are well massed with regard to the texture of the leaves, and the habit of the individual shrubs adapt them for grouping. No. 1 should be planted 30 feet away from the general group; No. 2, spaced 10 feet apart; No. 3, "drifting" in among and separating one of No. 2 species from the other two plants ; No. 3, planted 9 feet apart; No. 4, 7 feet apart; and No. 5 at one end of this group. The plants in this group are hardy and well adapted to interior- valley conditions where frost prevails. 26 California Agricultural Extension Service [ Cir - 109 DIRECTIONS FOR USE OF THE PLANT LISTS The plant lists have been arranged in three tables according to the char- acter of growth, or use. Table 1 includes broad-leaved evergreen trees, de- ciduous trees, coniferous trees and shrubs, deciduous shrubs, evergreen shrubs, and tropical plants ; table 2 lists the evergreen climbers and de- ciduous vines ; and table 3 indicates the native plants suitable for road- side and ornamental planting. In addition to name, plant family, and origin, the tables give some data on height of plant, use and adaptation, and, in the case of the horticul- tural forms, the method of propagation. There has been no attempt to make the lists complete, but most of the commonly used forms have been included. Many California nurseries publish excellent catalogs which list new horticultural varieties adapted to various regions.* The definitions of some of the terms as used in the lists are as follows : Accent : A plant noticeably different in size, form, texture, color, or habit and char- acter of growth from those composing its setting, or one which by position emphasizes a garden or architectural feature. Avenue: A large, vigorous tree adapted to parkings for major traffic ways. Background : A tree or shrub of vigorous growth, often drought-resistant, for the skyline effect at the rear of the house. Border: A tree more or less drought-resistant adapted for planting adjacent to the lawn. Lawn specimen : A tree of neat and attractive growth, tolerant of lawn conditions. Shade : A tree which is spreading and provides shade with the minimum of litter. Street: A tree of restricted but vigorous growth, adapted to city street planting. Tub specimen : A tree or shrub adapted to planting in ornamental tubs or boxes. Windbreak: A tall, vigorous, drought-resistant tree adapted to windy regions, for garden or crop protection. * Some references useful in the study of native or ornamental plants are : Jepson, W. L. Manual of the flowering plants of California. 1238 p. Associated Students Store, Berkeley, California. 1925. McMinn, H. E., and E. Maino. Pacific Coast trees. 409 p. University of California Press, Berkeley. 1937. Bailey, L. H. Hortus. 755 p. The Macmillan Co., New York, N. Y. 1935. Bailey, L. H. Standard cyclopedia of horticulture. 1200 p. The Macmillan Co., New York, N. Y. 1935. 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