.ucsg imm x-^-^3^c^ 
 
 KEY M A P ■ 
 to 
 
 ALPINE GUIDE 
 
 Eastern Alps. 
 
 The JVumercUs refer to the Seotums 
 The Letters To theHouXas 
 
 Edw'^WeUer
 
 Balls Alpine Guides 
 
 SOUTH TYEOL 
 
 AND 
 
 VENETIAN OE DOLOMITE ALPS 
 
 BY 
 
 JOHN BALL, F.RS., M.E.I.A., F.L.S., &c. 
 
 LATE PRESIDENT OF THE AIJ'IXE CLUB 
 
 LONDON 
 
 LONGMANS, GrKEEN, AND CO. 
 
 1873
 
 LIST OF MAPS. 
 
 Key Map . . . . To he pasted inside ike cover at the beginning 
 The Eastern Alps — General Map .... To face title-page 
 
 The Dolomite Alps of South Tyrol .... To face page 'ill 
 
 ABBREVIATIONS AND EXPLANATIONS. 
 
 The following are the chief ahbreyiations used in this -work : — 
 
 hrs.. m. — for hours and minutes. "When used as a measure of distance, one 
 hour is meant to indicate the distance which a tolerably good walker will traverse 
 in an hour, clear of halts, and having regard to the difficulty of the ground. 
 In cases where there is a considerable difference of height, the measure given is 
 intended as a mean between the time employed in ascending and descending, 
 being greater in the one case and less in the other. 
 
 ft., yds. — for feet and yards. The heights of mountains, &c., are given in 
 English feet above the level of the sea, and are generally indicated in the 
 manner usual in scientific books, by the figures being enclosed in brackets, 
 with a short stroke. 
 
 m. — for mile. Unless otherwise expressed, distances are given in English 
 statute miles. 
 
 rt., 1.— for right and left. The right side of a valley, stream, or glacier, is 
 that lying on the right hand of a person following the downward course of the 
 stream. 
 
 The points of the compass are indicated in the usual way. 
 
 Names of places are referred in the Index to the pages where some useful 
 information respecting them is to be found. 
 
 Throughout this work the reader is frequently referred for further information 
 to the Section and Route where this is to be found. ^Vhen the reference is 
 made to a passage occurring in the same Section, the Eoute alone is mentioned.
 
 399 
 
 CHAPTER XVL 
 SOUTH TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. 
 
 Sectiox 57. 
 
 rO-Wi:B VAXLET OF THE ADIGE. 
 
 Route A— Botzen to Verona, by the Valley 
 
 oftheAdige . . .402 
 
 Route B— Trent to Riva, on the Lake of 
 
 Garda 408 
 
 Route C— Roveredo to Riva, by ilori . 410 
 Route D— Riva to Desenzano, by the "W. 
 
 shore of the Lake of Garda . 412 
 Route E— Riva to Peschiera, by the E. 
 
 shore of the Lake of Garda . 414 
 Route F — Roveredo to Garda, by the 
 
 Monte Baldo . . .416 
 
 Section 58. 
 eecoaeo disteict. 
 
 Route A — Roveredo to Vicenza, by Val 
 
 Arsa and Schio . . . 420 
 
 Route B— Vicenza to Recoaro. Excur- 
 sions from Recoaro . . 422 
 
 Route C — Recoaro to Roveredo . . 42-5 
 
 Route D— Schio to Recoaro . . .426 
 
 Route E— Montebello to Recoaro, by Ar- 
 
 zignano and Crespadoro . 427 
 
 Route F— Caldiero to Ala, or Recoaro, by 
 
 the Val d'lllafli . . .429 
 
 Route G— Verona to Ala, by the ilonte 
 
 Lessini 430 
 
 Route H— Schio to Trent, by the Valley 
 
 oftheAstico . . .430 
 
 Route I — Vicenza to Bassano, by Asiago. 
 
 The Sette Comuni . . 432 
 
 Route K — Asiago to Trent . . . 434 
 
 Route L— Vicenza to Bassano, by Ma- 
 
 rostica 437 
 
 Section 59. 
 valley of the beekta. 
 
 Route A— Trent to Bassano, by Val Su- 
 
 gana 439 
 
 Route B — Roveredo to Levico . . . 447 
 
 Route C— Bassano to Feltre, byPossagno 448 
 
 Route D — Bassano to Feltre, by Monte 
 
 Grappa .... 450 
 
 Route E— Bassano to Primiero, by Primo- 
 
 lano and Fonzaso . .450 
 
 Roiite F— Primiero to Predazzo in Fi- 
 emme, by San Martino di 
 Castrozza .... 458 
 
 Route G — Borgo di Sal Suganato Primie- 
 ro, by Canale di San Bovo . 461 
 
 Route H — San Martino di Castrozza to 
 Borgo di Val Sugana. As- 
 cent of the Cima d" Asta . 463 
 
 Route I — Borgo di Val Sugana to Cava- 
 
 lese in Val di Fiemme . , 467 
 
 Route K — Agordo to Primiero by the 
 
 Passo della Cereda • . 468 
 
 Route L — San Martino di Castrozza to 
 
 Cencenighe . . . .469 
 
 Section 60. 
 
 Route A- 
 Route B 
 Route C- 
 Route D- 
 Route E- 
 
 FASSA DISTEICT. 
 
 -Trent to Caprile, by the Valley 
 
 of the Avisio 
 -Lavis to Cavalese, by Val 
 
 Cembra .... 
 
 ■Botzen to Vigo, by the Seisser 
 
 Alp. Ascent oi the Schleren 
 -Vigo to Botzen, by the Caressa 
 
 Route F- 
 Route G 
 Route H 
 
 479 
 
 485 
 
 -Predazzo to Cencenighe, by 
 Paneveggio, or San Pele- 
 grino 
 
 Caprile to Vigo, by the Forcella 
 di Ombretta .... 
 
 -Botzen to Bruneck, by the 
 Grodnerthal and Gaderthal . 
 
 -Brimeck to Cortina d'Ampezzo, 
 
 by passes at the head of the 
 
 Gaderthal .... 
 
 Route I— St. Llrich in Groden to Pieve di 
 
 Andraz 500 
 
 Section 61, 
 
 4S7 
 
 4£9 
 
 491 
 
 496 
 
 CADOEE DISTEICT. 
 
 by 
 
 Route A — Bruneck to Conegliano, 
 
 Cortina d' Ampezzo 
 Bonte B — Cortina d' Ampezzo to Schlu- 
 
 derbach, by the Monte Cri- 
 
 stallo 
 
 Route C— Cortina d' Ampezzo to Belluno, 
 
 by Agordo .... 
 Route D— Feltre to Forno Avoltri, in 
 
 FriuU 516 
 
 Route E — San Stefano to Cortina d'Am- 
 pezzo, by Auronzo. The 
 
 Croda Malcora 
 Route F— San Vito to Pieve di Cadore. 
 
 Monte Antelao 
 Route G— San Vito to Longarone, by Val 
 
 di Zoldo. Monte Pelmo. 
 
 Monte Civetta 
 Route H— San Stefano to Innichen, by 
 
 the Sextenthal 
 Route I— Welsberg to Cortina d'Ampezzo, 
 
 by Prags .... 
 
 503 
 
 509 
 
 511 
 
 518 
 
 522 
 
 523 
 
 527 
 
 i29
 
 400 
 
 SOUTH TYROL AND MENETIAN ALPS. 
 
 Ix the preceding chapters of this volume 
 the northern and the central ranges of 
 the Eastern Alps have been described. 
 There still remains an extensive moun- 
 tain region bounded to the W. by the 
 Adige and the Lake of Garda and ex- 
 tending eastward into Carniola and 
 Lower 8tyria. The limit between this 
 region and the central chain is sharply 
 defined by the valley of the Eisack and 
 that of the Drave. "Within the bounds 
 here indicated two distinct tendencies 
 are exhibited in the general aspect and 
 configuration of the surface. In the 
 eastern portion the chief masses are 
 arranged in continuous ranges after the 
 fashion usual elsewhere in mountain 
 regions, but in the western portion, 
 lying between the Adige and the head 
 waters of the Piave, there is an absence 
 of any approach to regularity in the 
 disposition of the mountains. High ! 
 peaks rise abruptly without any appa- I 
 rent miitual relation, and are almost I 
 isolated b}' valleys that are often con- [ 
 tracted to deep clefts. In the principal ; 
 valleys there is, indeed, a marked ten- 
 dency to assume a common direction 
 from NE. to SW., which can scarcely be 
 explained by mere accident. 
 
 Although dolomite limestone exists 
 in many parts of the Alpine chain, and 
 some idea of its characteristic scenery 
 may be formed in the east of Switzer- 
 land, and elsewhere in the Eastern 
 Alps, dolomite rocks are nowhere de- 
 veloped on so great a scale as in the 
 region lying between the Adige, the 
 Eisack, and the Piave which is included 
 in the present chapter. The larger 
 part of this region, though mainly in- 
 habited by people of Italian origin, and 
 speaking an Italian dialect, belongs to 
 Tyrol, but some considerable mountain 
 masses lie within the ancient territory 
 of the Venetian republic now united to 
 Italy. The line of frontier, which may 
 yet afford subject for dispute between 
 the neighbouring states, seems to have 
 been traced in defiance of all intelligible 
 principles, as thougli dictated by mere 
 accident or caprice. In default of any 
 Binglo appropriate designation the writer 
 
 is forced to entitle the region here de- 
 scribed as South T^Tol and Venetian 
 Alps ; but it is right to add that tech- 
 nically the term South T}'rol includes 
 the district of Giudicaria, lying W. of 
 the Lake of Garda, and described in § 
 40 ; while the Carnic chain, noticed in 
 the following chapter, may be considered 
 as forming part of the Venetian Alps, 
 inasmuch as it was included in the 
 territory of the republic. The limits of 
 the region here included are marked by 
 the Lake of Garda, and the road from 
 Riva by Trent to Botzen, on the W. ; by 
 the road through the valleys of the 
 Eisack and Eienz from Botzen to Inni- 
 chen on the N. ; by the track through 
 the Sextenthal to San Stefano on the 
 Piave, and the high road thence to 
 Conegliano on the E. ; and to the S. by 
 the plain of Venetia. Some portions of 
 this district, more especially the valley of 
 Fassa, have long been known to men of 
 science, for scarcely any other district in 
 the Alps has offered so many objects of 
 interest to the geologist and the natural- 
 ist ; but for a knowledge of its extra- 
 ordinary attractions, even to the un- 
 scientific traveller, the English public is 
 chiefly indebted to a well-known volume 
 by Messrs. Gilbert and Churchill, enti- 
 tled ' The Dolomite Alps.' Further 
 information, especially of a kind inte- 
 resting to the mountaineer, has still 
 more recently been given in the annual 
 volumes of the Austrian Alpine Club ; 
 and the consequence has been to attract 
 an annually increasing number of visi- 
 tors to places which till very lately were 
 unheard of beyond their own immediate 
 neighbourhood. The writer fears lest 
 his personal predilection for this region 
 should lead him into exaggeration ; but 
 it is certainly not too much to say that 
 a traveller who has ^-isited all the other 
 mountain regions of Europe, and remains 
 ignorant of the scenery of the Dolomite 
 Alps, has yet to make acquaintance with 
 Nature in one of her loveliest and most 
 fascinating aspects.
 
 § 5' 
 
 LOT^'ER VALLEY OF THE ADIGE. 
 
 401 
 
 SECTION 57. 
 
 LOWER VALLEY OF THE ADIGE. 
 
 Keferexce has been frequently made 
 in preceding portions of this work to 
 the great brr-ach in the continuity of 
 the Alpine chain -which is marked by 
 the valley of the Adige. The impor- 
 tance of this feature in the physical 
 geography of Northern Italy is forced 
 •upon the attention of the ethnologist, 
 the historian, and the politician by its 
 effects on the migration of races and 
 the limits of empires ; but there is some 
 reason to believe that the boundary 
 marked by this great valley between 
 tlie Lombard and Venetian Alps has in 
 some form subsisted throughout a cycle 
 of ages in which that of the hiiman race 
 is but the latest and the short est. 
 ZMany facts seem to show that the geo- 
 logical history of the districts on cither 
 gide of this boundary has been essen- 
 tially different, and there are not want- 
 ing indications of such an alternation of 
 elevation and subsidence, that the one 
 region may have formed dry land, while 
 sedimentary deposits were being accu- 
 mulated over the area corresponding to 
 the otlier. 
 
 In speaking of the valley of the 
 Adige, we include the broad basin filled 
 l)y tlie Lake of Garda, which orographi- 
 cally represents the soutliern portion of 
 that valley, although it is separated 
 from tlie actual bed of the river by the 
 long narrow ridge of Monte Baldo. It 
 is for those who believe that the actual 
 configuration of the surface is altogether 
 due to meteorologi :al agency to account 
 for the formation of the narrow trench 
 throiigh which the river flows from 
 I?overedo to Volargne by the side of 
 the vastly broader and easier outlet af- 
 forded by the ba-in of the lake. 
 
 The great importance of this line of 
 valley, and its slight relations to the 
 districts on either side, have induced 
 the writer to devote a separate section 
 of this work to the course of the Adige 
 and the basin of the Lake of Garda, in- 
 cluding of course the range of Monte 
 
 s. T. D 
 
 Baldo and the Monte Bondone which 
 separate them. 
 
 Althougli we here describe a line of 
 valley that has been marked by nature 
 as the main highway from the North of 
 Europe into Italy, it i.s but slightly 
 known to the majority of travellers. 
 For several years the line of railway 
 from Botzen to Verona has been open for 
 traffic, and this having been extended 
 across the Brenner Pass to Innsbruck, 
 it is nov.- linked to the railway system 
 of central Europe. Travellers pass 
 through it in increasing numbers, but, 
 beyond passing glimpses from the rail- 
 way carriage, few have any conception 
 of the beauty and grandeur of its 
 scenery. The absolute height of the 
 mountains is not great, for but few 
 points exceed the limit of 7,000 ft., but 
 they rise steeply from a valley that is 
 but little above the level of the sea, and 
 it is not easy to point to any other 
 of the greater valleys of the Alps that 
 surpasses it in attractions for the artist 
 and the lover of nature. 
 
 The Lake of Garda is far from having 
 attained the celebrity of itS two Lom- 
 bard rivals, Maggiore and Como ; yet 
 some lovers of nature give the pre- 
 ference to the stately and stern gran- 
 deur of this vaster basin. 
 
 The traveller must bear in mind that 
 although peace has been restored between 
 the contending governments of Italy 
 and Austria, a jealo"s feeling still sur- 
 vives among subordinate officials, which 
 makes some caution advisable in regard 
 to excursions close to the line of fron- 
 tier, and somewhat hampers the freedom 
 of navigation on the lake. He will do 
 well to have his passport at h;ind in 
 case of difficulty.
 
 RorTE A 
 
 
 ' 
 
 yrZEN TO YEROXA, BY THK 
 
 VALLEY i 
 
 OF THE ADIGE, 
 
 1 
 
 Kilo- 
 
 English 1 
 
 metres 
 
 miles 1 
 
 BranzoU ... 10 
 
 6i 
 
 Auer 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 3| 
 
 Neumarkt 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 H 
 
 Salurn . 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 6i 
 
 S. Michele 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 4i 
 
 Lavis . 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 41 
 
 Trient . 
 
 
 
 11 
 
 H 
 
 MatareUo 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 5 ! 
 
 CaUiano . 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 5 
 
 Eoveredo 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 4i 
 
 Mori . 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 2* 
 
 Ala 
 
 
 
 13 
 
 8 
 
 Avio 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 3 
 
 Peri 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 H 
 
 Ceraino . 
 
 
 
 11 
 
 ^n 
 
 Verona (Ports 
 
 iNuc 
 
 iva) 
 
 . 26 
 
 402 S. TYROL AND VENLTIAX ALPS. § 57. LOWER VALLEY OF THE ADIGE. 
 
 I and from that point the united stream, 
 now grown nearly to its full proportions, 
 creeps onward, a stately Lut sluggish 
 river, with a fall of but two or three ft. 
 per m., bordered on its 1. bank by a broad 
 belt of marshy land, partly cultivated 
 with maize, but in great part producing 
 merely reeds, sedges, and intermittent 
 fevers. "WTiere the soil is tolerably dry 
 the mulberr)^ predominates, while vines 
 are grown on the warm slopes at the 
 foot of the mountains. At 
 
 BranzoU, rly. and post-station, flat- 
 bottomed barges, usually laden with 
 timber, are launched upon the Adige, 
 which here becomes navigable. The next 
 station on the rly. is 
 
 Auer — Ital. Ora. Here the porphyry 
 formation is left behind, and thencefor- 
 ward the mountains on both sides of the 
 valley are composed of pale grey or 
 nearly white limestone, that readily re- 
 ceives the varying and delicate tints of 
 a southern atmosphere. The new road 
 to Cavalese (§ 60, Rte. A) may be joined 
 close to Auer, but there is a better pros- 
 pect of obtaining a vehicle at the next 
 station, 
 
 Neurnarkt — Ital. Egna. — (Inns : 
 
 Krone ; Engel). In this part of the 
 
 valley the remains of old castles, some 
 
 of them dating from a very remote age, 
 
 become frequent, especially on the slopes 
 
 of the comparatively low ridge that 
 
 separates the Adige from the Val di 
 
 i Cembra. Besides the new road leading 
 
 I to Cavalese, there are several paths 
 
 ' across the same ridge which are noticed 
 
 in § 60, Rte. A. The rly. is carried, 
 
 I chiefly along ' the rt. bank, through a 
 
 I swampy tract, almost uninhabitable in 
 
 I summer from heat and flies, from tha 
 
 Neumarkt to the 
 
 Salurn station (Ital. Sahmd). The 
 village of that name, standing at some 
 distance on the 1. bank of the river, is 
 I the last German place in the main valley. 
 It has two verj' fair inns (Adler ; Ca- 
 vallo Bianco). The valley here bends 
 to the SW., and the scenery becomes 
 more interesting. Precipitous lime- 
 stone mountains rise abruptly on either 
 side, and the valley is wide enough to 
 
 149 92i 
 
 Some small gtations near Verona are omitted. 
 Hallway trains three times dailj- each way. 
 Travellers bound for Verona, and intending to 
 halt there, should take their tickets for Porta 
 Xuova ; but if going on towards Venice should 
 ask for tickets for the Porta Vescovo station, 
 on the opposite side of the city. 
 
 The least interesting portion of the 
 valley of the Adige is that which lies 
 before the traveller who leaves Botzen 
 to follow southward the high-road, or 
 the rly. which now absorbs most of the 
 traffic. After crossing the Eisack, the 
 j>eaks of the Rosengarten, so conspicuous 
 in all the views from Botzen, are lost 
 to sight. On the E. side the valley is 
 bounded by a range of porphyritic rocks 
 of moderate height, whose rounded edges 
 .>5peak of the prolonged action of the 
 elements, and the passage of one of the 
 greatest of the ancient glaciers of the 
 Alps. On the W. side the background 
 is formed by the ridge of the Mendel, or 
 ilendola, which, though composed of 
 dolomite, shows little of the characteris- 
 tic forms vi that rock. Between the 
 river and the base of the Mendel rises 
 the undulating plateau of Eppan, along 
 whose eastern base lies the present bed 
 of the stream. 
 
 The junction of the Eisack with the 
 Adige lies nearly 2 m. W. of the rly. ;
 
 ROUTE A. TRENT. 
 
 403 
 
 allow of a full view of their bare faces 
 frum top to bottom. On the rt. bank, at 
 the very base of tlie sunbeaten cliffs, 
 nestles Aichholz, producing a wine of lo- 
 cal repute. Through a ravine that opens 
 above the latter village a track leading 
 to Val di Non mounts steeply, and 
 crosses the range which is the southern 
 extension of Mendola. A little farther 
 the Adige bends again nearly due S., and 
 presently the opening of the narrow de- 
 file of Rocchetta, through which the Nos 
 descends from Val di Sole and Val di Non 
 to join the Adige, comes fully into view. 
 On the slope above the 1. bank of the 
 Nos is seen the village of Mezzo Tedesco 
 or Beutschmetz (Inn : Mezza Corona), 
 ■while on the opposite bank of the same 
 stream, whose destructive torrent is con- 
 fined by a massive embankment, stands 
 Mezzo Lombardo, or Wehchmetz, which 
 also has a tolerable inn (Corona). These 
 names, which date from the time of the 
 Lombard kings, show that the junction 
 of the Nos has continued for many cen- 
 turies to form the boundary between the 
 German and Italian populations in the 
 valley of the Adige ; and those m ho de- 
 sire permanent peace and friendly rela- 
 tions between Austria and Italy must 
 wish for a final adjustment of the poli- 
 tical boundary between those States, 
 which shall at once satisfy the feelings 
 of the people and afford a sufficiently 
 defensible frontier to each of them. 
 
 Opposite the opening of the Rocchetta 
 defile the rly. crosses to the 1. bank of 
 the Adige, near the station of San Mi- 
 chele (Germ. Welsch Michael). This 
 part of the valley aboxmds in memorials 
 of warfare. The hamlet of Grumo marks 
 the site of a bloody engagement between 
 the Lombards and the Franks ; and in 
 more recent times this has always been 
 held to be one of the most defensible 
 positions in the valley. The scenery 
 constantly increases in interest, and the 
 trav^eller arriving from the North is 
 struck by the peculiar tints of the 
 southern landscape, undefinable and 
 evanescent, yet never to be forgotten by 
 those who have been familiar with them. 
 
 To the 1., on slightly rising ground, 
 
 is seen Lavis, a market town standing 
 close to the junction of the Avisio, the 
 last considerable affluent of the Adige 
 before it escapes into the plain of Ve- 
 netia. Its course, extending from hence 
 to the base of the Marmolata, is des- 
 cribed in § 60, Rte. A. From this point 
 the view is extremely grand. The 
 broad valley of the Adige stretches due 
 S. for about 14 miles, bright with fre- 
 quent villages, and richly cultivated 
 with maize, mulberries, vines and fruit 
 trees. In the background rise the 
 limestone cliffs of the Monte Scanupia 
 (7,027') to the 1., and those of the Orto 
 d'Abram (7,193') to the rt. Set in the 
 midst of this gorgeous frame stands the 
 capital of the Italian Tj'rol, whose 
 towers and belfries come into view as 
 the traveller approaches 
 
 Trent (Ital. Tre9?to— Germ. Trient)^ 
 This important and interesting town 
 contains numerous inns which are some- 
 times all crowded. First in rank is the 
 Europa, good, but foul smells, rather 
 dear; Corona, or Krone, frequented by 
 Austrian ofi&cers; H.dela Ville, formerly 
 Chiave d'Oro, new and good ; Rebec- 
 chino, newly fitted up, tolerably good 
 and reasonable. The aspect of the city 
 is thoroughly Italian, and the massive 
 houses, or palazzi, of several of the 
 principal families may vie with those of 
 ^lilan or Verona. Cafes abound in the 
 principal streets, and there are fairly 
 good shops. The prosperity of the silk 
 trade, and the circumstance that the 
 adjoining districts almost completely 
 escaped the vine disease which has been 
 peculiarly destructive in the Venetian 
 provinces, have made this city and 
 Roveredo amongst the most thriving 
 places on the S. side of the Alps ; but 
 that circumstance has in no degi-ee 
 tended to make the population satisfied 
 with their enforced connexion with the 
 German TjtoI. 
 
 The city contu ins several objects that 
 deserve the stranger's notice. Of its 1 5 
 churches the mo'Jt remarkable is the 
 Duomo, or cathedral, commenced in the 
 11th centun,', and not yet completed. 
 I The romanesque architecture will iu- 
 d2
 
 404 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 57. LOWEPw VALLEY OF THE ADIGE. 
 
 lerest tlie ecclesiastical antiquary. 
 Amongst other monuments is one to 
 Sauseverino, slain at Galliano when 
 i-onimandinp: the Venetian forces, which 
 were there defeated by the Tx'entines in 
 1487. The church of Santa Maria 
 Maggiore has not much of interest to 
 the sightseer beyond the fact that it 
 was the place wherein was assembled 
 the famous Council of Trent. It con- 
 tains a tine organ ornamented with 
 curious carving. The Castello del 
 Buon Consiglio, once the residence of 
 the Prince Bishops, is a vast and 
 curious building now converted into a 
 fortified barrack. Some of the rooms 
 contain curious fresco paintings of con- 
 siderable merit. Another ancient castle 
 stands outside the town. An interest- 
 ing collection of works of art and anti- 
 quity bequeathed by Count Giovanelli 
 is preserved in the public library of 
 the city. Within the last few years a 
 new channel has been excavated for the 
 bed of the Adige which formed a great 
 loop just outside the town, and the an- 
 cient bed is now nearly dry. This im- 
 portant work, which is partly seen from 
 the rly. carriage, has facilitated the 
 drainage of some land above Trent, but 
 is . said to have increased the danger 
 from floods in the lower part of the 
 valley. Trent is only 626 ft. above the 
 sea-level, and in the next 17 miles the 
 Adige falls but 90 ft. 
 
 After suffering from the varying for- 
 tunes or misfortunes of war during the 
 invasions of the Goths, Franks, and 
 Lombards, with intervals of prosperity 
 under Tlieodoric and Charlemagne, 
 Trent enjoyed for several centuries 
 almost unbroken quiet and indepen- 
 dence under the virtual sovereignty of 
 Bishops who held the city and the ad- 
 joining valleys as an immediate fief of 
 the Empire. The title of Prince 
 Bishops has survived to the present 
 time, although the temporal jurisdiction 
 was -finally lost in 1802. Besides the 
 main road throuarh the valley of the 
 Adige, two important roads meet at 
 Trent, That leading to Riva is des- 
 cribed in Rte. B, and the road to Padua 
 
 by Val Sugana and Bassano in § 69, 
 lite. A. Omnibuses for Riva and Bor^-^o 
 di Val Sugana start twice a day, from 
 the Rebecchino. 
 
 In the centre of the valley, close to 
 the city, risos a remarkable rock, known 
 as Bos Trento, and also called La Ver- 
 ruca, formerly frequented for the sake 
 of the beautiful view which it com- 
 mands. Since 18.57 it has been strongly 
 fortified, and permission to ascend to 
 the summit is not easily obtained. 
 
 The neighbourhood of Trent affords 
 excellent opportunities for the study of 
 most of the sedimentary rocks of the 
 Eastern Alps, which is facilitated by 
 j the cuttings made in constructing the 
 ! new roads to Riva and Val Sugana, and 
 I by the numerous quarries worked near 
 i the city. To the N. and NE., in the 
 ; neighbourhood of G-ardolo most of the 
 [ subdivisions of the Trias maybe identi- 
 ! fied, culminating in dolomite. The 
 : series of Jurassic and cretaceous rocks 
 j may be best studied on the E. side of 
 I the city, following the new road to Val 
 Sugana. Fossils are abundant at many 
 points. Nummulitic rocks also appear 
 in the same direction, but they are 
 more extensively developed near Sar- 
 dagna, S. of the road to Riva. A man 
 named Ferraresi is recommended as a 
 guide to geologists in this neighbour- 
 hood. He usually has a supply of fos- 
 sils for sale. 
 
 The botanist not already familiar 
 with this region may reap a rich har- 
 vest in the neighbourhood of Trent. 
 On the E. side Farsetia clypeata, and 
 Tragus racemosus are abundant. On 
 the rocks of Dos Trento grow Caps'Ua 
 pauciflora and Ephedra distachya, but 
 these cannot now be reached without a 
 special permission. 
 
 The most interesting mountain ex- 
 cursion is that to the M<mte Bondoiic 
 (7,412'), or the Orto d'Abram (7,193'). 
 These are the two highest summits of the 
 range SW. of Trent, which may be con- 
 sidered a northern prolongation of that 
 of Monte Baldo, though separated by 
 the deep trench through which runs the 
 road from Mori to Torbole (Rte. C),
 
 KOUTE A. — ROVEREDO. 
 
 405 
 
 Starting from the low level of the city 
 the ascent is somewhat luborious, and 
 it is well to be off some time before 
 daylight, to aA^oid heat and gain a 
 better view. The botanist will find in 
 this excursion many of the character- 
 istic plants of Monte Baldo. See Ete. 
 F. 
 
 Below Trent the high-road and, save 
 for a short distance, the rly. also, keep ! 
 to the 1. bank of the Adige, till it issues 
 into the plain near Verona. The first i 
 considerable village is j 
 
 Mataredo (6*7'), standing at the open- j 
 ing of Vol' Strrda, through which narrow \ 
 glen a country- road is carried to Levico i 
 in Val Sugana. Three or four miles : 
 below Matarello the main valley is con- \ 
 tracted between the bases of the Monte I 
 8canupia and Orto d'Abram, forming a j 
 defile, which commences at the hamlet i 
 of Aqua\-iva, and extends to Galliano. ! 
 i'rom Aquaviva, to the point where the 
 river issues from the mountains below 
 La Chiusa, the valley of the Adige is 
 locally called Val Lagarina (Germ. 
 Lager thai). For a long period Val 
 Lagarina formed a nearly independent 
 state, under the jurisdiction of the 
 powerful family of Castelbarco, whose 
 descendants still have large possessions 
 here. The castle from which they take 
 the family name may be seen on the I 
 rt., about 4 m. N. of Koveredo. After i 
 passing the village and station of j 
 
 Calliano, where a picture in the parish [ 
 church recalls the bloody victory gained j 
 by the people of Trent over the Vene- ; 
 tians under Sanseverino, the rly. leaves j 
 on the 1. the opening of Val Folgaria, a | 
 favourite summer resort of the people j 
 of Eoveredo. For a notice of the plea- 
 sant path leading that way to Val 
 vSugana see § 59, Ete. B. The mam 
 valley now bends to the W., but after I 
 passing Volano the Adige soon resumes 
 its southerly direction, and before long 
 the traveller reaches the town of 
 
 Roveredo (Inns : Corona ; Cavaletto ; 
 both very fair). The increasing popu- 
 lation, now approaching to 9,000 in 
 number, owes its prosperity to the silk 
 irade, which rose to importance after 
 
 I this part of the Val Lagarina passed 
 ■ from the Lord^hip of the Castelbarco 
 i family under Venetian rule, in the loth 
 I century. The first spinning-mill is said 
 I to have been erected by a Venetian in 
 I 1 548, There are now a number of large 
 Filande, where the cocoons are unwound, 
 and of FUatoje, where the raw silk is 
 spim into thread. In these establish- 
 ments nearly the entire population found 
 remunerative occupation until the dis- 
 ease in the silkworm seriously dimi- 
 nished the supply of raw material within 
 the last few years. The people of Eo- 
 veredo maintain a high character for 
 intelligence, aotivit}-, and probity, and 
 their undisguised s}-mp:ithy -n-ith the 
 national movement in Italy is doubtless 
 increased by traditions of former pros- 
 perity under Venetian rule. 
 
 The church of San Marco, and the 
 adjoining piazza, deserve a visit ; but 
 the general aspect of the town is not 
 nearly equal to that of Trent. 
 
 Close to Eoveredo the stream of the 
 Leno, used to work a large paper-mill 
 and other establishments, issues from 
 Val Arsa, tlu-ough which runs the inte- 
 resting road to Vicenza described Ih 
 § 58, Ete. A. Through an eastern 
 branch of the same valley ? called Val di 
 Terragnolo) a track crosses the steep 
 range that encloses the head waters of 
 the Astico. 
 
 Below Eoveredo the Adige runs SW. 
 for about 4 m. Numerous castles are 
 perched upon the slopes on either hand, 
 some of which date fi'om the time of the 
 Eomans. That of Lizzaiia, on the 1. of 
 the rly., is remembered as having been 
 the halting place of the Emperor Henry 
 11. on his return to Germany, and still 
 more for the visit which Dante here 
 made to one of the lords of Castelbarco. 
 On the rt. bank of the stream, opposite 
 Lizzana, is Iscra producing a wine of 
 ancient fame, said to be the best in S. 
 Tyrol. About 4 m. from Eoveredo is 
 the station of 
 
 Mori, close to a bridge over the 
 Adige. The village near at hand, on 
 the rt. bank, is Eavazzone, that of Mori 
 being more than a mile distant. Omni-
 
 406 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 57. LOWER VALLEY OF THE ADIGE. 
 
 Avio (447'). The village, connected 
 vrith the station by a fem', stands on 
 the rt. bank, at the opening of Val 
 Aviana, one of the glens that runs 
 deepest into the range of Monte Baldo. 
 The church contains a good picture of 
 St. Anthony, by Guercino. The last 
 Tyrol ese village is Borghetto ; a short 
 distance beyond it the traveller passes 
 the Italian frontier, and soon reaches 
 the station of 
 
 Peri. Here the traveller bound for 
 La Madonna dsUa Corona crosses the 
 ferr}^ over the Adige (Rte. F). That 
 remarkable sanctuary may be descried 
 by the passing traveller on the face of a 
 perpendicular precipice in a deep recess 
 of the Monte Baldo. On the E. side of 
 the main valley a path mounts from Peri 
 SE., through an opening in the range 
 which on that side hems in the course of 
 the Adige, and leads by Sta. Anna to 
 Val Pantena, noticed in § 58, Rte. G-. 
 This depression separates the plat-eau of 
 the Monti Lessini from the Monte Pas- 
 tello. This name is given collectively 
 to the ridge which extends for about 9 m. 
 SW. of Peri parallel to that of Monte 
 Baldo. Both mountains exhibit the 
 same geological structure ; with this dif- 
 ference, that the strata of Monte Baldo 
 dip at a considerable angle to the W.. 
 while those of Monte Pastello are in- 
 clined in rhe opposite direction. Hence 
 the rocks on either side present very 
 steep fractured faces to the valley of the 
 Adige, while the opposite slopes are 
 comparatively uniform and of moderate 
 steepness. It is difficult to resist the 
 conA'iction that the valley of the Adige. 
 in this part of its course at least, owes 
 its origin to a fracture which ran along 
 the line of anticlinal flexure, and this 
 belief is confirmed by the absence of 
 rolled pebbles or glacial drift from the 
 terraces on either side of the valley. 
 Had it owed its origin to erosion these 
 witnesses could scarcely have disap- 
 peared. The range of Monte Pastello 
 scarcely exceeds 3,700 ft. in height, 
 nevertheless some subalpine species of 
 plants inhabit the ridire, while several 
 other interesting species are found on its 
 
 buses start t\v-ice daily from this station 
 for Riva, which is reached in about '6 
 hrs. by a very interesting road. See 
 Rte. C. 
 
 The Mori station stands on the verge 
 of a vast mass of debris, that stretches 
 across from the mountain on the E. side 
 of the valley to the banks of the Adige. 
 Tiiis is locally known as Slavini di Sa?i 
 Marco, from the adjoining village of San 
 Marco. Huge blocks of stone, mingled 
 with smaller masses, lie piled iip in wild 
 confusion, and cover a space of nearly a 
 square mile. A little close examination 
 would have saved an able French geolo- 
 gist from describing this as a moraine 
 left during the retirement of the ancient 
 glacier of the Adige. The blocks are all 
 of the same material as the ad.joining 
 mountain, and they are not accompanied 
 by the quantity of finer matter, including 
 glacial mud, that always characterises a 
 trae moraine. The pile of ruin is un- 
 doubtedly caused by a bergfall or great 
 Itudslip, from the slope of the mountain 
 oa the 1. side of the valley. With great 
 probability this has been identified with 
 an event of that nature recorded in a.d. 
 883, whereby the bed of the Adige at 
 "\'erona was left dr\' for several days. 
 Nearly 3 m. below the Mori station is 
 
 Srrravalle, standing, as the name ex- 
 presses, at the entrance of a defile in 
 the main valley. Like most of the 
 strongholds in Yal Lagarina, the ruined 
 castle once belonged to the Castelbarco 
 family. For some miles the valley is 
 contracted, but it opens out somewhat 
 before reaching 
 
 Ala (Inns ; Vapore, tolerable ; Cervo), 
 a small town, once famous for its velvet 
 fabrics. It stands at the opening of a 
 narrow lateral glen called Fal di Ronchi, 
 through which lies a path to the Revelto 
 pass, leading either to Recoaro, or to 
 Badia in the Monti Lessini (§ 58, Rte. C). 
 The easiest and shortt'St way to the Pieve 
 di Val Arsa does not lie through Val di 
 Ronchi, as stated by Sehaubach, The 
 true path leaves the 'valley of the Adige 
 near the church of San Valentino, about 
 1^ m. N. of Ala. The next station is 
 that of
 
 ROUTE A. PERI — VERONA. 
 
 407 
 
 warm slopes. Among tlie former the 
 most interesting is Astragalus PasteUia- 
 nus, probably a variety of A. vesicarius, 
 confined to a very small area not far 
 from the summit. Besides this may be 
 found Cytisus purpureus, Campanula 
 Al'pini,P(ederotaBo7iarota, Allium ochro- 
 leucum, &c. Of the plants growing on the 
 middle and lower slopes Cqtlsus argcn- 
 teus, Leontodon iticamcs, Echinops sphce- 
 rocephalus, Hyssopus officinalis, and 
 Erythronum dens can is, deserve notice. 
 The northern botanist will see with in- 
 terest many southern bushes, such as 
 Pistacia Terebinfhus, Cercis Siliquas- 
 trum, and Quercus Ilex. 
 
 Below Peri tiie mountains on both 
 sides begin to subt^ide towards the plain, 
 but the scenery continues to be extremely 
 bold, worth}- of the historic interest at- 
 taching to this entrance into Italy. As 
 the traveller advances southward the 
 nearly vertical cliffs that rise on either 
 hand seem to close together, and in the 
 famous defile of La Chiusa the space re- 
 quired for the high road and the rly. 
 has been obtained only by blasting the 
 rock. At the narrowest part the cleft 
 through which the Adige pours its copious 
 waters becomes very tortuous, and the 
 rly. engineers have been forced to adopt 
 curves of small radius in order to follow 
 its windings. The traveller will not 
 forget that above the precipices on the 
 rt. bank of the river extends the famous 
 plateau of Rivoli, where contending 
 armies have so often fought for the key 
 of Verona, a city whose unique position 
 makes its possessors the masters of 
 Northern Italy. The strong forts erected 
 by the Austrians during tiie preceding 
 18 years for the purpose of commanding 
 the defile and the plateau of Rivoli, had 
 not their efficiency tested during the 
 campaign of 1866, and it may be hoped 
 that their present occupants will have 
 no occasion to defend the position against 
 new aggressors. At Fo/«r^we(420') the 
 traveller finally issues from the defile, 
 and presently gains the first view of the 
 line of low hills extending westward 
 from Verona, that fill so large a space in 
 military history. Near at hand, just 
 
 I beyond the Adige, is Paslrengo ; farther 
 south, Sornma Carnpagna; beyond that, 
 Custozza ; and, in the far distance, the 
 tower of Solferino. 
 
 For several niiles the rly. runs SE., 
 parallel with the high road, having on 
 the 1. hand the slopes which produce the 
 excellent wine of A"al Policella; but for 
 strategic reasons it was not carried di- 
 rectly to the walls of Verona. About 
 4 m. from the city the rly. turns«abruptly 
 to the S., and joins the main line from 
 Milan at Santa Lucia. This slight de- 
 tour is scarcely a matter of complaint to 
 the traveller, who gains beautiful and 
 varied views before he finally reaches 
 the gates of 
 
 Verona (Inns : Due Torri, good, dear; 
 Torre di Londra, good ; several other 
 second-rate houses, of which the best is 
 probably the Czara di Moscovia). A de- 
 scription of this city, whose attractions 
 are scarcely exaggerated in tlie glowing 
 pages of Kuskin, does not fall within the 
 scope of this work. 
 
 It may be well to remind the traveller 
 who should contemplate excursions in 
 the valley of the Adige that the biidges 
 over that impetuous stream are few in 
 number. Ferries, most of them of high 
 antiquity, are established at fixe<:l points, 
 at intervals of 2 or 3 m., and in regard 
 to these loca.1 information should be ob- 
 tained.
 
 408 S. TYROL AND \T:XETIAN ALPS. § 57. LOWER VALLEY OF THE ADIGE. 
 
 Route B. 
 
 TBEN'T TO RIVA, OS THE LAKE OF GAEUA. 
 
 Vezzano 
 Drd 
 Rira . 
 
 Italian geog. English 
 
 miles miles 
 
 . 6 7 
 
 . 10 Hi 
 
 . oi 6| 
 
 21i 
 
 242 
 
 Carriage-road, traversed by oranibixs twice 
 daily each way, in 4i or 5 hrs. 
 
 Though not quite equal in picturesque 
 beauty to the way from Eoveredo, de- 
 scribed in the next Ete., this is an ex- 
 tremely interesting road to the ordinary 
 tourist, and especially to the geologist. 
 Something of the scenery may be seen 
 from the coi'/pe of the omnibus, but a 
 more agreeable course is to engage a 
 small open carriage at Trent or Eiva, 
 or, in cool weather, to go on foot. 
 
 Passing close under the rock of Dos 
 Trento, the carriage-road ascends west- 
 ward from Trent to a narrow cleft in the 
 f^teep limestone range that encloses the 
 valley of the Adige. The pedestrian 
 traveller may make a slight detour from 
 the road to -visit the pretty Waterfa'l of 
 Sardogna. To reach the summit of the 
 pass, which is guarded by two forts, in- 
 volves an ascent of nearly 1,000 ft. from 
 the city, and the traveller, emerging 
 from the cleft through which the road 
 is carried, finds himself on a rather bare 
 limestone plateau, near the hamlet of 
 Ccid.ine (1,614'). To the rt.lies Terlago 
 (1,487'^ with a small lake scarcely seen 
 from the road. Descending westward 
 over undulating rocky slopes the road 
 leads the traveller to 
 
 Vezzano (1,250'), a rather large vil- 
 lage with a poor but tolerable inn in 
 the main street. From hence several 
 interesting excursions may be made. A 
 glance at a good map will show that the 
 adjoining mountains are disposed in 
 parallel ridges, with minor undulations 
 all running fr')m NNE. to SSW., of 
 which general type Monte Baldo is the 
 best known specimen. The range im- 
 mediately AV. of Vezzano is the Monte 
 Gazza (^6,518'), whose uppermost por- 
 
 tion forms a broad plateau, extending 
 
 soutliward to the opening of the .Sarca 
 
 defile, and northward to the opening of 
 
 ValdiNon. The traveller who makes 
 
 the ascent will be well rewarded for his 
 
 trouble, if he extend his walk far enough 
 
 I to reach the verge of the steep slope 
 
 i overlooking the bh;e waters of the Lake 
 
 ' ofMolveno, backed by the noble pinnacles 
 
 ' of the Brenta Alta. He may then turn 
 
 southward, and descend by Eanzo to 
 
 Castel Toblino. See § 40, Ete. H. A 
 
 I guide is scarcely needed for this walk. 
 
 I Another excursion may be made to Caci- 
 
 \ dine (1,734'), a village lying in a small 
 
 ' lateral glen (a fold in the limestone 
 
 I strata), parallel to the valley of the 
 
 Sarca. It is close to the foot of the 
 
 ! Orto d'Abram which may be more easily 
 
 ' ascended from hence than from Trent. 
 
 ' About half-way between Vezzano and 
 
 I Cavedine the ruined castle of Madrnzzo 
 
 (1, 797' j crowns a projecting rock. It was 
 
 ! once the seat of a powerful and wealthy 
 
 I family, and one of the finest castles in 
 
 i S. Tyrol. It is said that the present 
 
 owner, a Genoese nobleman, has not 
 
 I only allowed it to fall to ruin, but ae- 
 
 ! tually sold the carved stones remaining 
 
 ; in the building. The pedestrian, bound 
 
 ' to Eiva from the upper part of the 
 
 Adige valley, may avoid Trent, and 
 
 ' reach Vezzano by a path that mounts 
 
 I from Mezzo Lombardo to Zmnbana, a 
 
 I village overlooking the Adige opposite 
 
 j to Lavis (Ete. A). Thence the track, 
 
 passing some very small lakes, keeps to 
 
 the "W. of Terlago, and descends to V^z- 
 
 j zano. This walk would be of interest 
 
 I to the geologist as he passes over the 
 
 j course which (as is now believed) was 
 
 once followed by one branch of the great 
 
 glacier of the Adige. From Vezzano th? 
 
 road descends rapidly to the Lake of 
 
 I Toblino. This is an extremely pictur- 
 
 I esque little sheet of water, 786 ft. above 
 
 j the sea-level, with an ancient castle 
 
 I {Castel Toblino) now one of the numer- 
 
 ; ous possessi'^ns of Count Wolkenstein. 
 
 I The castle stands on a I'ttle rocky island 
 
 ' united to the shore by a causewaj'. A 
 
 j .strong, but rather sweet, white wine of 
 
 ■ good flavour is made in this neighboiir?
 
 ROUTE E. VEZZANO — ARCO. 
 
 •109 
 
 hood from grapes that are let to hang 
 on the vine till mid-winter. It costs on 
 the spot about 1 Horin a bottle. Close 
 to the castle mounts the path to Ranzo, 
 by which the traveller may reach the 
 beautiful Lake of Molveno (§ 40, Rte.. 
 H). Very soon after leaving theS. end 
 of the lake the road from Trent joins 
 the very remarkable road issuing from 
 the defile of the Sarca, which is desci'ibed 
 in § 40, Ete. J). The group of houses 
 •with a very poor ostcria, about 200 yds. 
 from the junction of the two roads, is 
 called Le Sarche. Here passes the 
 country' diligence which plies daily to 
 Tione in Giudicaria. Although it is 
 only at this point that the valley is 
 traversed by a considerable stream, it is 
 clear that the road from Vezzano to Le 
 Sarche, and thence to Riva, as well as 
 the above-mentioned path from Zam- 
 bano to Vezzano, lie in what is orogra- 
 phically the southern prolongation of 
 the valley of the Adige ; as the Monte 
 Gazza, and the mountain W. of Dro, are 
 thi: prolongation of the range of the 
 3Iendola. 
 
 For some miles below Le Sarche the 
 valley presents an alternation of rich 
 cultivation with scenes of barren ruin. 
 Several considerable bergfalls, one of 
 them on the grandest scale, appear to 
 have occurred in this valley; but the 
 present position of some huge blocks 
 may perhaps be better accounted for by 
 glacial agency. For a distance of seve- 
 ral miles the stream uniting the Lake 
 of Toblino with another small lake in 
 the main valley is divided from the 
 Sarca by a low rocky ridge parallel to 
 the stream. The ridge en the rt. pre- 
 sents a curious appearance as the strata 
 are tilted at a, high angle, with a steep 
 uniform slope towards the Sarca. At 
 one point the seemingly impracticable 
 slope is surmounted by a goat track. 
 After passing Drb (403'), a large village 
 with no decent inn, the valley, though 
 still narrow, is more richly cultivated, and 
 the olive, so rarely grown with success 
 in the north of Italy, becomes a prevail- 
 ing tree. Passing under the precipitous 
 castle-rock, the road, which has con- 
 
 stantly kept to the rt. bank of the Sarc^i, 
 reaches 
 
 Arco, a small town, only 301 ft. above 
 the sea, nestling at the foot of an ex- 
 tremely bold promontory that once rose 
 above the head of the"^ lake of Garda 
 before the space (about 3 m. in length) 
 extending hence to the present shore was 
 filled up by the deposits of the Sarca. 
 The rock, which rises 600 ft. above the 
 plain, is crowned by the towers of the 
 Castello di Arcn, the original seat of a 
 powerful fiimily that, throughout the 
 contests between the Emperors and the 
 Venetian Republic, always took the side 
 of Germany, and whose modern repre- 
 sentatives have large possessions in 
 Austria and Bavaria. 
 
 The level tract extending hence to the 
 shore of the lake is famous for its ex- 
 traordinary fertility, and the mildncfc^s 
 of its climate. In few places north of 
 the Apennines is the olive cultivated to 
 so much advantage, and many other 
 plants that do not bear the climate of 
 the plain here flourish luxuriantly. The 
 only scourge of the agriculturist here is 
 one unfortunately too common along the 
 southern base of the Alpine chain. 
 Hailstorms of short duration, but ex- 
 treme violence, are not unfrequent during 
 the summer months, and often effect an 
 incredible amount of damage in the 
 course of a few minutes. "With refer- 
 ence to recent controversies as to the 
 origin of Alpine lakes, the geologist will 
 not fail to note the position of the 
 Monte Brione (1,22-"/), a detached rocky 
 hill of nummulitic limestone, rising in 
 the middle of the broad valley close to 
 the present shore of the lake. The Sarca 
 flows into the lake through a broad 
 opening on the E. side of this eminence ; 
 while the Varrone, and two minor 
 streams from the mountains N. of Riva, 
 reach the lake on the opposite side. As 
 the maximum force of the advancing 
 glacier which once filled the basin of 
 the lake must have been exerted against 
 this obstacle, it may be asked how the 
 glacier failed to remove it altogether, if 
 it be true that we owe to this agent the 
 excavation of the entire lake-basin.
 
 4-10 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 57. LOWER VALLEY OF THE ADIGE. 
 
 At the E. foot of the Monte Oro, 
 whose grand crags of limestone, rising 
 tier over tier, defend it from the after- 
 noon sun, stands the town of 
 
 Riva (Inns; Sole, good and beauti- 
 fully situated ; Giardino, much im- 
 proved, comfortable and reasonable), 
 without question one of the most at- 
 tractive of the many beautiful places to 
 be found on the Italian lakes. Too hot 
 for most Englishmen in the height of 
 summer, it is a delightful stopping- 
 place in spring and autumn, and a 
 milder winter residence than most of 
 those frequented by foreigners in Italy. 
 In the writer's opinion the position is 
 superior to that of Como, Lecco, or Lo- 
 carno ; and, as a centre for interesting 
 excursions, it is at least equal to any of 
 those places. Most of these have been 
 described in § 40 (see Alpine Guide, 
 vol. ii), and it will be sufficient to say 
 here that no traveller should omit to 
 visit the charming Lake of Ledro, re- 
 turning, if possible, by moonlight — see 
 § 40, Rte. E. A longer excursion, also 
 practicable in a light carriage, is to go 
 to Tione by the vaUey of the Sarca, and 
 return by Condino, Storo, and Val di 
 Ledro. 
 
 It may be necessary to repeat the 
 caution given in a preceding volume 
 against the overcharges of the post- 
 master at Riva. Carriages may usually 
 be hired from other persons in the town. 
 The botanist may gather near the town 
 many southern species, rarely seen so 
 near the high Alps. Amongst those 
 may be named Reseda fhyteiima, Cy- 
 tisus argenteus, Onojiis ColumncB, Con- 
 volvulus cantahrica, l^l'ptatherum mxdti- 
 florum, and especially the evergreen oak 
 — Quercus Ilex — which extends as a 
 stunted bush as far north as the slopes 
 above Castel Toblino. Vallisneria spira- 
 lis is seen in the waters of the lake near 
 the town ; and among other local species 
 may be named Moehriiujia Voiice and 
 Euphorbia 7iiccsensis. 
 
 Route C. 
 
 eoveredo to elva, by moki. 
 
 Railway to ilori. Carriage-road thence to 
 Riva— about 14 English miles. 
 
 The traveller wishing to take advan- 
 tage of the omnibus, which plies twice 
 a day in connection with the rly. trains, 
 should take a ticket from Roveredo to 
 the Mori station, rather more than 3 m. 
 distant from the town; but, unless he 
 can secure a place in the coupe, he will 
 see little of the beautiful scenery. It is 
 a securer course to engage a small car- 
 riage at Roveredo, which will convey 
 him in about 3 hrs. to Riva. This road 
 traverses a deep cut in the range that 
 extends along the "VV. side of the Adige 
 from near Lavis to the plateau of Ri- 
 voli, the summit of the pass being only 
 about 300 ft. above the bridge over the 
 Adige near the rly. station of Mori. 
 After crossing this bridge, the road 
 leaA'es Bavazzone to the rt., and ascends 
 very slightly to the larger village of 
 Mori (658'). Here opens the compara- 
 tively A^nde valley that separates the 
 Monte Baldo on the 1. from the range 
 to the rt. that culminates in the Orto 
 d'Abram. Unlike most passes of the 
 same character, this is not a cleft be- 
 tween steep impending rocks. Com- 
 paratively gentle slopes, covered with 
 the richest verdure, vdih just enough of 
 crag to add picturesque effect to the 
 gcenery, rise on either hand ; and the 
 road is carried, nearlv at a dead level,
 
 ROUTE c. — ro\t;redo to riva. 
 
 411 
 
 through a succession erf gardens and 
 fields, where the mulberry, vine, and 
 maize are the prevailing crops. The 
 pedestrian who would wander from the 
 direct road will find paths leading to 
 numerous villages, nestling in sheltered 
 recesses of the mountains on the rt. 
 hand, and extending upwards to more 
 than 3,000 ft. above the sea. On the 
 opposite side a track leads to Bren- 
 tonico (Rte. F). 
 
 Following the carriage-road the tra- 
 veller before long reaches the charming 
 little Lakt of Lo^ypio, in a glen of minia- 
 ture dimensions, but exquisite in all its 
 details. The road passes along its 
 southern shore, fringed with reeds, 
 sedges, and Cladiicm Marhcus, and 
 mounts the low ridge that encloses it 
 on the "W. side, when the summit level 
 is reached about 200 ft. (' 77 ft.' Schau- 
 bach — but there must be some error) 
 above the level of the lake of Loppio. 
 The view towards the valley of the 
 Sarca and the lake of Grarda is not at 
 once gained in its full beauty. To en- 
 joy these to perfection the traveller 
 must pass the village of Nago, and 
 reach the verge of the slope immediately 
 overhanging the valley. At this point 
 the pass is guarded by an Austrian fort, 
 and the road is made to pass tlu'ough 
 one of its outworks. With surprise, 
 the traveller, w^ho has forgotten that 
 the level of the Adige is fully 300 ft. 
 above that of the Sarca, finds himself 
 at a relatively great height above the 
 latter stream, overlooking the point 
 where it is lost in the blue waters of 
 the lake of Grarda. The road turns 
 sharply to the 1., and descends diago- 
 nally the steep face of the rocky slope, 
 whose bare strata dip at a high angle 
 towards the lake and the valley of the 
 Sarca. At the foot of the descent is 
 Torbole, a poor fishing village, sur- 
 rounded by olive trees, and commanding 
 a beautiful view. Additional interest 
 is given to the road leading from the 
 Adige to this spot when we recollect the 
 extraordinary feat achieved in 1439 by 
 the Venetian engineers, who, in three 
 weeks, conveyed a flotilla, including 
 
 large galleys, and 25 smaller vessels, 
 from the Adige to the Lake of Garda, 
 across this pass, to contest the ma^^tery 
 of the lake with the Milanese under 
 Filippo Maria Visconti. Along a cause- 
 way constructed for the occasion, the 
 galleys were drawn to the lake of Lop- 
 pio, then fioated to its farther end, and 
 dragged up the steep incline to the 
 summit of the pass by harnessing from 
 200 to 300 oxen to each galley. Not 
 less difficult was the descent to Torbole ; 
 but all obstacles were overcome, and 
 the flotilla was launched upon the lake, 
 only to be almost completely destroyed 
 in the following November by the su- 
 perior daring of the Milanese com- 
 mander. The Venetians then learned, 
 however, the strategic imporUmce of 
 the possession of the Lake of Garda, 
 which seems to have been forgotten by 
 the Italians in their recent campaigns. 
 They constructed a new flotilla at Tor- 
 bole, and in the following spring gained 
 a decisive victor}' over their Milanese 
 antagonists, which secured the control 
 of the lake during the remainder of- the 
 war. 
 
 The road from Riva to Torbole runs 
 close to the lake shore, passing under 
 the Monte Brione, where the Austrians 
 have built a fort armed with heavy guns 
 that defend the approach to Riva from 
 the side of the lake. After crossing 
 the stream of the Varrone the road 
 reaches that town. See last Rte.
 
 412 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. 
 
 Route D. 
 
 jhta to desexzano, by the w. shore 
 of the lake of garda. 
 
 
 
 English 
 
 
 Kilometres 
 
 miles 
 
 Lim one (by water) 
 
 . 8 
 
 .5 
 
 Tremosine . 
 
 . 7 
 
 4i 
 
 Tignale 
 
 . 6 
 
 3; 
 
 Gargriaiio 
 
 . 6 
 
 3; 
 
 Mademo 
 
 . 9 
 
 3 
 
 ^^al5 
 
 . 7 
 
 Desenzano . 
 
 . 12 
 
 n 
 
 55 34J 
 
 These distances are mere approximations, 
 the lake shore being too irregular to allow of 
 accarate measm-ements. 
 
 The iinfriendly condition of the po- 
 litical relations between Austria and 
 Italy has been a chief cause of the 
 deficiency in means of communication 
 between the N. end of the Lake of 
 Garda, belonging to Tyrol, and the 
 southern shores, belonging partly to 
 Lombardy, partly to Veuetia. ^^^len 
 not altogether interru|)t<rd, the inter- 
 course by steamer has been inconveni- 
 ently arranged. The hours of sailing 
 of the steamers are fixed to suit the 
 markets in the towns and villages on 
 the shore, and vary from one day to 
 another. It may however be expected 
 that better provision for travellers will 
 now be made. To travel by land, es- 
 pecially along the western side of the 
 lake, is possible only for an active pe- 
 destrian, and would be a slow course, 
 owing to the roughness of the ground, 
 though doubtless an interesting walk. 
 
 The lake of Garda is the most con- 
 siderable of the Italian, and one of the 
 largest of the Alpine lakes, ranking in 
 extent next after those of Constance 
 and Geneva. The northern portion, 
 about 23 m. in length, is a deep trough 
 parallel to all the main valleys of this 
 region, lying between the range of 3Ionte 
 Baldo and that of the Brescian Alps. 
 It widens gradually from a breadth of 
 3 m. at its head to nearly 6 m. oppo- 
 site the point of S. Vigilio, which forms 
 the southernmost prolongation of the 
 range of Monte Baldo. South of that 
 
 § 57. LOWER VALLEY OF THE ADIGE. 
 
 j point the lake expands into a nearly 
 I circular basin, about 12 m. in diameter, 
 ! which is partly divided by the long low 
 promontory of Sermione, extending from 
 the S. shore between Peschiera and Dc- 
 senzano. This southern portion of the 
 i lake is not confined within barriers of 
 j rock as are most Alpine lakes. The 
 ; comparatively low hills that circle round 
 I its margin, and extend for many miles 
 I beyond it, are formed of disintegrated 
 I materials transported from the interior 
 ; valleys of the neighbouring Alps. There 
 I can be no doubt but that they are the 
 I remains of the vast moraines of a gla- 
 cier that once filled the bed of the lake, 
 ; possibly modified by the action of the 
 ; sea during a period of subsequent sub- 
 mergence. 
 
 The scenery of the lake of Garda has 
 
 not attained nearly so much celebrity 
 
 as that of its rivals (Como and ]Miig- 
 
 giore). This has arisen quite as much 
 
 from the fact that it lies out of the 
 
 j beaten track of travellers as from any 
 
 I real inferiority ; and according to the 
 
 I disposition and passing mood of the 
 
 ; traveller, he may be inclined to award 
 
 ! the palm to one or the other. 
 
 j If he should miss here the ceaseless 
 
 variety of exquisite pictures that he has 
 
 : found on the Como lake, and should 
 
 ' prefer some of those familiar, yet ever 
 
 fre?h, scenes that endear the Lago Mag- 
 
 giore to his memory, he cannot fail to 
 
 be impressed with the more stately 
 
 grandeur of this vaster basin. The 
 
 contrast of the rich vegetation of the 
 
 southern and western shores with the 
 
 stern, and almost menacing, aspect of 
 
 the grey ridge of Monte Baldo, is per- 
 
 j haps more impressive than any similar 
 
 j effect on any of the Alpine lakes. On 
 
 none of them does he find in such deli- 
 
 ; cate gradations the pale grey and brown 
 
 I tints so characteristic of the scenery of 
 
 I the South. 
 
 The mean height of the lake above the 
 j sea-level is but 201 ft., while its depth 
 j at some points exceeils 900 ft., and 
 j these, as well as other local conditions, 
 ! have combined to produce the mildest 
 '-. climate to be found anywhere near the
 
 ROUTE D. LAKE OF GARDA. 
 
 413 
 
 base of the Alpine chain. This remark ; 
 applies especially to the western shore, | 
 ■which, as it faces SE., receives the full i 
 force of the mid-day siin. Reference 
 was made in Rte. B to the presence of 
 several species of wild plants near Riva, : 
 that properly belong to the Plora of ; 
 central Italy, but the most significant 
 fact in regard to vegetation is the cul- ; 
 tivation of lemons and citrons on a i 
 large scale. This had already grown to ! 
 importance at the end of the sixteenth ; 
 century, and still supplies a local trade 
 of some extent. It is true that the cul- | 
 tivation requires special precautions. 
 The trees are grown in narrow plots of 
 ground, each of which is enclosed by a 
 high stone wall, except on the S. side. , 
 With the help of marble pillars, stand- I 
 ing at intervals, the whole space is co- I 
 vered over during three or four winter | 
 months with a light covering of matted ; 
 reeds ; and in case of severe frost, ■ 
 which is of rare occurrence, fires are 
 lighted to protect the plants. 
 
 In the present route we proceed to ; 
 notice the chief places on the "W. shore 
 of the lake. 
 
 Until the completion of the very 
 remarkable road from Riva to Val 
 di Lcdro. mentioned in § 40, Rte E, 
 the precipitous shore of the lake be- 
 tween that town and the waterfall of 
 Ponal was absolutely impassable ; and 
 visitors to the waterfall could approach 
 it only by boat. South of Ponal the 
 mountains still rise very steeply above 
 the lake, but there are several practi- 
 cable paths leading across the frontier 
 between Italy and TjtoI. The more 
 frequented of these is by Pregasena, a 
 village near to which, as the writer is 
 informed, there is a considerable de- 
 posit of erratic blocks, probably consist- 
 ing of the peculiar granite of the Ada- 
 mello group. The first considerable 
 village on the Lombard shore is 
 
 Lirnone, which derives its name from 
 the extensive cultivation of lemons, here 
 first seen on a large scale by the travel- 
 ler arriving from the N. As the steamer 
 coasts along the shore, many a village 
 and scattered villa is seen on the steep 
 
 slopes, adding life and variety to the 
 scenery. The village of 
 
 Treynosine stands conspicuous on a 
 shelf of rock, whence a steep path de- 
 scends to the beach. After passing the 
 mouth of the Campione torrent, which 
 has borne a pile of debris into the lake, 
 the shore becomes less steep, and a 
 tolerable path is carried along, at no 
 great distance from the lake, as far as 
 
 Gargvano, a village which suffered 
 rather severely from the fire of the 
 Austrian steamers diu'ing the last cam- 
 paign. The track extending hence to 
 Salo, being the warmest and most shel- 
 tered portion of the lake-shore, is locally 
 known as La Riviera. It is one con- 
 tinuous garden, in which lemons and 
 citrons give place at intervals to figs, 
 grapes, mulberries, olives, pomegra- 
 nates, and laurel trees, and to the 
 gardens and pleasure-grounds that sur- 
 round the villas of proprietors. A level 
 and tolerably good road extends along 
 this part of the shore. One of the 
 finest villas, seen some way S. of Garg- 
 nano, belongs to Count Bettoni. A low 
 promontory is now seen to stretch out 
 into the lake. This is a considerable 
 delta formed by the Toscolano torrsnt 
 which drains Val Yestino, Val Tosco- 
 lano, and some tributary glens. On thi^ 
 NE. side of the delta is the considerabla 
 village of 
 
 Toscolano, with a poor but bearable 
 inn. This is a place of great antiquity, 
 whose former importance as a mart for 
 the neighbouring district is attested by 
 many Roman remains. It possesses a 
 considerable paper-mill, which has been 
 worked for at least two centuries and a 
 half, besides some other industrial 
 establishments. On the opposite or 
 SW. side of the delta, about 1 m. from 
 Toscolano, is 
 
 Mader7io, at one time considered the 
 chief place on the lake. It still con- 
 tains many stately houses. Passing 
 Gardone, not to be confounded with 
 the place so named in Val Trompia 
 (§ 39, Rte. I), the traveller reaches 
 
 Sa b (Inn : Gambaro, very fair), a 
 beautifully situated town, which will
 
 414 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 57. LOWER VALLEY OF THE ADIGE. 
 
 doubtless be frequented when better 
 known to travellers. It lies at the W. 
 end of a deep bay, surrounded with 
 gardens and plantations of oranges and 
 lemons, and there are probably few 
 spots in the N. of Italy that enjoy so 
 mild a winter climate. The town is 
 screened from the northern winds by a 
 comparatively high mountain mass, of 
 which the chief summit is the Monte 
 PizzocoJo, so conspicuous in all distant 
 views of the lake, and even from the 
 neighbourhood of Verona. It is more 
 easily accessible from this side than 
 from Toscolano. A carriage-road leads 
 from Salo in little more than two miles 
 to the valley of the Chiese, through 
 which runs the road mentioned in § 40, 
 Rte. A, leading in one direction to 
 Brescia, and in the other to the Lake 
 of Idro, and to the chief scenes of G-ari- 
 baldi's late unsuccessful campaign. 
 
 On quitting Salo, the steamer is 
 steered due E. to round a promontory 
 that terminates in the rocky islet known 
 as Isola del Frafc. South of this head- 
 land it passes the opening of a second 
 bay, and leaves to the rt. the Isola di 
 San Biagio. The S. and SW. shores 
 of the lake abound in memorials of 
 the past. Pagan temples, Christian 
 churches, and modern villas, have in 
 succession occupied the most attractive 
 sites. On the last-named islet once 
 stood a temple to Jupiter ; and another, 
 dedicated to Minerva, adorned the 
 neighboiiring headland that has pre- 
 served the name Manerhr. Steering a 
 little W. of S., the traveller now enters 
 the broad basin that forms the south- 
 ern division of the lake. It is a nearly 
 circular sheet of water, partially divided 
 by the long low promontory of Scr- 
 mione. Few spots in the neighbour- 
 hood of the Alps are richer in histori- 
 cal associations. Sermif^ne, already in 
 Roman times a fivourite resort, was 
 visited by Julius Cfesar, and was the 
 chosen residence of Catullus ; some re- 
 mains of Roman buildings bHng still, 
 ■with little or no warrant, called the 
 poet's villa. A castle was erected here 
 in Uie time of Charlemagne ; and Ansa, 
 
 the wife of King Desiderius, built a 
 monastery, and the church of Ssm Sal- 
 vatore, part of which still exists. Early 
 in the fourteenth century arose the 
 church of San Pietro, said to contain 
 interesting frescoes, and about the same 
 time one of the Scaligers erected what 
 is still known as the Castello Nuovo, 
 and dug a trench, whereby to convert 
 the point of the peninsula into an 
 island. 
 
 At the SW. corner of the lake the 
 traveller lands at 
 
 Besenzano (Inns •: Vittoria ; Albergo 
 Mayer ; both on the lake, and com- 
 manding a fine view ; Aquila), a small 
 town whereat travellers often stopped 
 when the frontier between Austria and 
 Italy lay between this and Peschiera. 
 From the railway station, on the main 
 line between Milan and Venice, a wider 
 view of the lake is gained than from 
 the town itself. 
 
 Route E. 
 
 EIVA TO PESCHIERA, BY THE E. SSORE 09 
 THE LAKE OF GARDA. 
 
 
 Kilo- 
 
 English 
 
 
 metres 
 
 miles 
 
 Malcesine (by water) 
 
 . 12 
 
 ^ 
 
 Castelletto . 
 
 . 10 
 
 6| 
 
 Torri . 
 
 . 10 
 
 6i 
 
 Garda . 
 
 . 8 
 
 
 Bardolino 
 
 . 4 
 
 h 
 
 Lasize . 
 
 . 5 
 
 3 
 
 Peschiera . 
 
 . 8 
 
 :> 
 
 67 
 
 35i 
 
 It is impossible to conceive a more 
 marked crmtrast than that afforded by 
 the opposite shores of the Lake of
 
 ROUTE E. — MALCESINE TORRI. 
 
 415 
 
 Garda throughout the distance of about 
 23 m. from Eiva to the point of San 
 Vigilio. On the one side nothing can 
 be more varied than the form of the 
 ground; and the union of rich cultiva- 
 tion with a hixuriant growth of wild 
 flowers and shrubs gives softness to the 
 aceuery. On the E. shore the peculiar 
 structure of the range of Xonte Baldo 
 produces the eifect of stern monotony. 
 As seen from a distance this is some- 
 what drearj' and uninteresting ; but a 
 nearer view, such as may be gained 
 from the steamer follo-n-ing this shore, 
 rewards the traveller by its quite pecu- 
 liar characteristics. Tlie mountain 
 range may be described as mainly 
 formed of enormous superposed flags of 
 limestone which have been tilted up 
 at a high angle, with little or no lateral 
 disturbance. In many places the strata, 
 lying in unbroken beds, dip down from 
 a height of several thousand feet to the 
 water's edge without visible break or 
 interruption. Making allowance for the 
 slight irregularities of the topmost 
 ridge, the mountain may be likened to a 
 long range of mediaeval roofing covered 
 with slates or flags, each of which 
 measures a quarter, or even half the 
 height of the roof. On these bare sur- 
 faces little or no vegetable soil has been 
 able to cling, and it is only at intervals, 
 where some torrent has cut a ravine, 
 and borne down some detritus to the 
 shore, that a little ground available for 
 cultivation has been obtained. 
 
 For several miles no habitations are 
 seen on these stern slopes, and but one 
 small hamlet is passed until the tra- 
 veller reaches 
 
 Malcesine, a rather large village built 
 on soil brought down by one of the 
 most considerable torrents that drain 
 this face of Monte Baldo. It was long 
 the head-quarters of the Venetians, and 
 has a high square tower erected for the 
 defence of its little harbour. Several 
 small villages, each surrounded by an 
 oasis of rich vegetation contrasting with 
 the barren rock around, are seen at 
 intervals of two or three miles, and the 
 rocky islet of Trcmelone is passed before 
 
 j the steamer touches Castelletto. Here 
 the range begins to subside towards the 
 south. The slopes are less steep, and 
 , vegetation begins to assert its predomi- 
 I nance over the barren rock. The tra- 
 I veller intending an excursion in the 
 : Baldo range, who has shunned the long 
 i and steep ascent from Malcesine, may 
 j land at 
 
 Torri, whence it is an easy walk to 
 i Caprino, and the Madonna della Corona, 
 I (See next Rte.). About 3 m. S. of Torri 
 the rocks forming the farthest prolonga- 
 tion of the Baldo range subside into the 
 I lake at the point of San VkiUio. The 
 i view from hence is justly celebrated as 
 I one of the finest on the lake, command- 
 i ing the entire southern basin, and a 
 great part of the northern and more 
 Alpine portion of its shores. A stately 
 villa and several gardens nestle on the 
 sheltered side of the promontory. Here, 
 as well as at some other points of th.e 
 shore, the Oleander {Ney^unn Oleander) 
 has become wild upon the rocks ar.d 
 steep slopes. After rounding the point, 
 the steamer follows the shore due E. to 
 Garda, a small village, though it has 
 given its name to the lake. It rivals 
 Salo for the wannth of its climate, and 
 the luxuriance of the gardens that, at 
 frequent intervals, are seen along the 
 shore. The ancient towers and battle- 
 ments that surround the rather larger 
 village of Bardolino give it an air of 
 importance to which the interior scarcely 
 corresponds. Still more picturesque is 
 the aspect of Lasizc. Its castle, erected 
 by one of the later Scaligers, is still in 
 tolerable preservation, and the camca- 
 nile of the principal church is a good 
 specimen of Italian Gothic. Near to 
 this village have been gathered Anemojie 
 coronaria and Bryj^is spinosa, two spe- 
 cies of southern plants not seen else- 
 where in the neighbourhood of the Alps. 
 3Iany villas of the Veronese aristocracy 
 are seen along this part of the lake 
 shore. One of the largest is that of 
 Cola, some way from the lake to the S. 
 of Lasize, belonging to Count Minis- 
 calchi, well known as an Arabic scholar, 
 and as a distinguished member of the
 
 Italian Senate. From Lasize the steamer 
 runs direct to 
 
 Peschiera (no good inn, but a tolerable 
 restaurant near the landing place), a 
 small town, at the extreme S. end of 
 the lake, where the Mincio commences 
 its sluggisli course thi'ough the plain 
 that extends hence to the banks of the 
 Po. Before 1849 this aths the smallest 
 and weakest of the fortresses of the 
 famous quadrilateral ; but since that 
 date all the surrounding eminences were 
 crowned by detached forts built at a 
 heavy cost by the Austrian government. 
 The botanist who has a few minntes to 
 spare before proceeding to the railway 
 station may gather JS'aia-s major, Senrcio 
 paludosv.s, and some other interesting 
 plants close to the landing place of the 
 steamers. 
 
 416 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 57. LOWER VALLEY OF THE ADIGE. 
 
 di Kaqo (6 815'), Cima delle Fincstre 
 (6,866'), Monfc Magqiore, also called 
 la Colraa (7.212'), and Costahdla (about 
 7,000'). The second and third of these 
 summits may be scaled directly from 
 the lake shore at Malcesine ; but the 
 ! finest -s-iews are gained from the Altis- 
 j simo di Nago, which is most conveni- 
 '■■ ently reached from Brentonico, or from 
 Costabella, best visited from Spiazzi. 
 The ordinary tourist may well be satis- 
 fied with one of these excursions, but 
 the naturalist will do well to devote 
 ! at least two or three days to making a 
 : fuller acquaintance with this famous 
 ■ mountain. 
 
 1 It has long been celebrated as a 
 i sort of natural botanic garden, where 
 i may be found many of the rarest 
 plants of the Eastern Alps ; and since 
 Pona published in 1617 his 'Monte 
 Baldo Descritto,' successive giner-a- 
 tions of botanists have resort^^-d hither. 
 It appears, however, that within the 
 present century several of the rarer 
 species have been nearly extirpated, 
 in consequence of the increase of sheep 
 and goats, but the traveller who visits 
 the mountain in the early summer is 
 still sure of an abundant harvest. The 
 following list, including only the rarer 
 species, may interest the botanical tra- 
 veller. Banu'iiculvs tutfefolius and B. 
 Thora, Isopyrian thalictroidcs, Delphi- 
 nium datum, Paonia officinalis, Pap- 
 aver pyrenaicnnn, Arabis saxatilis and 
 A. pumila, PetrocaUis pyrenaica, Alidne 
 austriaca, Moehringia PoTice, Linum vis- 
 cosum and L. Narboncnse. GeranUnn 
 argentevm, Acer monspessvlannrn, Cy- 
 tuus radiahis and G. fAt^p^'-'reus, Vicia 
 orohoides, Potentilla oiitida, Aremonia 
 acjrinwnioidcs. Saxifrage^ elatior, S. se- 
 doides and <S. petrcea. Ptychotis hetero- 
 fhylla, Atharnanta Matthioli (?), Ligns- 
 iicum Segiiuri, Heradeuvi polUniantnn^ 
 ISlolopospermum ciciitariura, Homcgyve 
 discolor, Ptarmica ClavencB and P(f. oxy- 
 loha, Doronici'.ra austriacum, Serrahi^a 
 lihapontinrm, Phyieiima comosum, Ca'in- 
 panv.la alpina and C. petrcea [Madoyiva 
 ddla Corona), Pa-dcrota Eonarota, Pedi- 
 cularis fascicidata, P. acaulis and P. 
 
 EorxE P. 
 
 BOVBREDO TO GAEDA, BY THE MOXTE 
 BALDO. 
 
 The name Mo'/ite Baldo is applied 
 collectively to the mountainous range 
 that divides the Lake of Garda from 
 the valley of the Adige. This fitly re- 
 ceives a common appellation, for al- 
 though the higher summits lie in a 
 ridge about 12 m. in length, ihey are 
 not separated by any considerable de- 
 pression, and the entire mass shoAvs 
 remarkable uniformity of sti-ucture. The 
 four most conspicuous summit- reckon- 
 ing from N. to S. are the Altissimo
 
 ROUTE F. MONTE BALDO. 
 
 417 
 
 eomosa, Horminum'pyrenaicum, Lamium 
 Orvala, Fri7mda spedahilis, Plantago 
 Victorialis, Euphorbia carniolica and E. 
 nicceensis, Salix Pojitederana, Limodo- 
 rumaho7-tivum,E')'ythronium Dens canis, 
 Veratrum nigrum, Carex baldensis and 
 C. ^gnobasis, Avena sempervirens, and 
 Asplenium Halleri. 
 
 The geologist will also find ample 
 occupation in examining the structure 
 of this mountain. Reference has been 
 made in the last Rte, to the remarkable 
 regularity with which the strata on the 
 W. side dip towards the Lake of Garda. 
 The opposite side of the range, facing 
 the valley of the Adige, presents a re- 
 markable contrast. The iipturned edges 
 of the strata on this side have been 
 carved into the most varied forms by 
 erosive agency, and perpendicular faces 
 of rock alternate, with richly wooded 
 slopes or green pasture. Speaking ge- 
 nerally, the outer range of heights that 
 rises immediately above the rt. bank of 
 the Adige is separated from the main 
 ridge by an undulating broken plateau. 
 The waters of the plateau, and the sur- 
 rounding heights, flow at first in depres- 
 sions parallel to the general direction i 
 of the ridge, and finally make their 
 way to the Adige through deep ravines 
 at rt. angles to that direction. At 
 several points on the E. side igneous 
 rocks (basalt?) are .«een to protrude 
 through the overlying strata. A deposit 
 of lignite is found at the N. end of the 
 ridge near the hamlet of Soma. 
 
 •A visit to the chief objects of in- 
 terest on the mountain may easily be 
 made by a traveller, bound from Eo- j 
 veredo to Verona or Brescia, or vice 
 versa, but the traveller who does not 
 follow the course here suggested may 
 visit the Madonna della Corona from 
 the Peri station on the rly. between 
 Botzen and Verona (Rte. A), or 
 ascend one or other of the highest 
 summits from Malcesine on the Lake 
 of Garda (Rte. E). Probably the most 
 interesting route for approaching the 
 mountain, at least in point of sce- 
 nery, is to ascend from Avio (Rte. A) 
 along the Aviana torrent, but tho tra- 
 
 s. T. 
 
 veller taking that cotirse must prepare 
 to pass the night in a chalet. 
 
 The most convenient way for the tra- 
 veller willing to devote two or three 
 days to the mountain is to leave the 
 rly. at the Moi^i station, a short way S. 
 of Roveredo, and quit the carriage-road 
 at the village of that name. A slight 
 ascent leads to 
 
 Ticrno (793'), whence a mule path 
 mounts to 
 
 Brentonico (2,261'). A village pictu- 
 resquely placed on a spur of the moun- 
 tain, reached in 2 hrs. from Mori. Ac- 
 commodation for the night (yerj poor?) 
 and guides may be found here ; and if 
 weather be favourable, the traveller will 
 do well to ascend on the same day the 
 northernmost summit of the moxmtain 
 — AHissi'ino di Nago (6,815'). The view 
 is of a very high order, though it does not 
 overlook so large a part of the lake as 
 Costabella, the southernmost peak. 
 From the summit the frontier between 
 Italy and Tyrol runs down to the liike, 
 crosses to the west shore, and thence 
 extends westward to the Monte Tre- 
 malzo. Li the opposite direction it 
 is carried along the topmost ridge of 
 Monte Baldo as far as the summit of 
 Monte Maggiore, leaving the W. slope 
 to Italy, and the E. slope to Tyrol. 
 From Monte Maggiore it again turns 
 eastward, and descends to the Adig^ 
 with no apparent regard to the con- 
 formation of the ground. From the 
 peak of the Altissimo it is quite prac' 
 ticable to follow the water.shed, and on 
 the same day reach the summit of the 
 Cima ddle Finesire (6,866'). From 
 the latter a steep goat-path leads down 
 to Malcesine. Most travellers will pre- 
 fer to return from the Altissimo to 
 Brentonico, and on the following day 
 ascend the Monte Maggiore (7,21 2' \ or' 
 else follow a track that coasts along the 
 higher ridge of the mountain, and will 
 lead him by Ferra'-a to the Madonna 
 della Corona and Spiazzi. The writor 
 has ascended only one of the higher 
 ■peaks — Costabella — but has retained it 
 "^trorg impression, that besides the f(rjr 
 summits here named, there is a fifth.
 
 418 S. "n-ROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 57. LOWER VALLEY OF THE ADIGE 
 
 which approaches very near the height 
 of the Monte Maggiore. AVhatever 
 coiu'se the traveller may take, he should 
 not omit a visit to the sanctuary of the 
 Madonna della Corona (2,547'j, one of 
 the most famous and most cvirious of 
 its kind. It is, however, best seen by 
 those who ascend from Brentino, a 
 small village on the rt. bank of the 
 Adige, a little below Peri. Here a 
 torrent descends into the main valley 
 from a deep hollow in the mountain. 
 According to the legend, immediately 
 after the taking of Rhodes by the 
 Turks in 1522, a bright light was re- 
 peatedly seen by night on the face of 
 the perpendicular wall of rock that 
 rises on the AV. side of this hollow. 
 When the spot was at length reached 
 by shepherds, who, by ropes, were let 
 down the face of the precipice, a mi- 
 raculous image of the Madonna, pre- 
 viously preserved in a church at Ehodes, 
 was found on an inaccessible ledge of 
 rock. After being more than once re- 
 moved to a neighbouring church, it as 
 often disappeared, and was again found 
 at the same spot. Yielding to the in- 
 timation thus plainly given, the people 
 hewed a hollow opening in the face of 
 the precipice, which was consecrated as 
 a chapel; and constructed a pathway 
 partly cut into the rock, partly sup- , 
 ported on props, which has ever since 
 been the frequent resort of pilgrims, es- 
 pecially on the 1 5th August, and on other 
 anniversaries. The pathway is carried 
 by 676 steps hewn in the rock to the 
 summit of the precipice above the 
 sanctuary, and on reaching the top, the 
 traveller sets foot on the plateau of 
 Monte Baldo, where it begins to slope 
 downwards towards the plain country. 
 At this spot, called Spiazzi, are a few 
 houses, of which the largest is an inn, 
 where the traveller finds veiy tolerable 
 quarters, except at times when it is 
 overcrowded with pilgrims. He enjoys 
 a striking scene when, on opening his 
 eyes with the earliest light of day, he 
 Gees the blue outline of the Apennine, 
 at least 90 m. distant, rising beyond 
 the V£Lst expanse of the valley cf the 
 
 Po. On the face of the rocks near the 
 sanctuary, the botanist wiU not fail to 
 remark a very singular species of Cam- 
 panula {C. petrcea), for which this was 
 long the only known habitat. It has 
 since been detected in two or three 
 stations of the same character, in the 
 neighbouring valleys N. of Verona, and 
 in the Basses Alpes near Draguignan. 
 
 A road, recently much improved, 
 descends from Spiazzi to Cap?-t/2o(883'), 
 — several inns, best is Colomba d'Oro — 
 whence it is easy to reach Garda or 
 Torri. See last Ete. On certain fixed 
 days the lake-steamer touches at both 
 places, but if bound for the W. shore 
 the traveller may best hire a boat at 
 Torri to convey him to Toscolano, Ma- 
 derno, or Salo. If bound for Verona, 
 the most interesting course is to go 
 from Spiazzi to the plateau of Rivoli, 
 and thence descend to the rly. station 
 at Ceraino (Ete. A). The complete 
 semicircle of low hills that surrounds 
 the plateau of Eivoli is formed by the 
 moraines of the former glacier of the 
 Adige, which did not extend nearly so 
 far southward as that of the Lake of 
 Grarda, but rose to a greater height on 
 the E. flank of Monte Baldo than did 
 the greater ice-stream on the opposite 
 slope of the same mountain.
 
 §58. 
 
 RECOARO DISTRICT. 
 
 419 
 
 SECTION 58. 
 
 RECOARO DISTRICT. 
 
 In the last section the reader has fol- 
 lowed the course of the Adige from its 
 junction with the Eisack at Botzen to 
 its entrance into the plain of Venetia 
 near Verona. With slight irregulari- 
 ties its course is parallel to that of the 
 Monte Baldo, the Lake of Garda, and 
 the main valleys of Lombardy. To the 
 E. of the Adige no such parallelism is 
 to be found ; and whether the traveller 
 follow the course of the chief rivers — 
 such as the Brenta, Piave, Tagliamento, 
 and Isonzo — or of the minor streams 
 that descend into the plain, he finds 
 little if any trace of the relation be- 
 tween the direction of the main valleys 
 and that of the mountain ranges which 
 is elsewhere traceable in the Alps. It 
 will be seen, for instance, that the lakes 
 which form the principal sources of the 
 Brenta lie ver}' near to the city of 
 Trent ; but as the course of the stream 
 is at first eastward, gradually turning 
 towards the S., and after some consider- 
 able zigzags finally entering the plain 
 at Bassano, an extensive tract of moun- 
 tain country is included between the 
 Brenta and the Adige. It is this tract 
 ■which is to be described in the present 
 section. A few short valleys carry in- 
 considerable torrents to join the Adige 
 and the Brenta, and the larger portion 
 of the drainage of the district flows into 
 the plain of Venetia through the Astico, 
 the Timonchio, and the Agno, with other 
 less important torrents. Nothing can 
 be more irregular than the disposition 
 of the mountain masses and the direc- 
 tion of the valleys, and in regard to the 
 views of those geologists who are in- 
 clined to refer the modelling of moun- 
 tain countries almost exclusively to 
 erosive action, it is instructive to com- 
 pare a region like this, where such in- 
 fluences have been predominant, with 
 the more common condition where com- 
 parative order prevails in the arrange- 
 ment of ridge and valley. 
 
 Although the mountains do not rise 
 
 to a great height (Cima delle Dodici 
 (7,651'), Monte Pasubio (7,326'), Cima 
 di Posta (7,0-17')), their forms are usu- 
 ally very bold, and the scenery of most 
 of the valleys offers great beauty and 
 variety. Some of the latter are very 
 deep, but there is a marked tendency 
 to the plateau formation throughout this 
 district, and this is exhibited on a largo 
 scale in the singular tract known as the 
 Sette Comuni. The district is moBt 
 easily approached from the N., by the 
 carriage-road from Eoveredo to Vicenza, 
 which divides it into two nearly equal 
 portions ; but the other paths leading 
 this way from S. TjTol into Italy are 
 rough, and for the most part fit only 
 for pedestrians. The natural centre of 
 this district for tourists is found at Ee- 
 coaro, a watering-place that requires 
 only to be more generally known, and 
 rather better accommodation, to become 
 a favourite resort for strangers, as it 
 now is for the upper classes in the ad- 
 joining provinces. Fair accommoda- 
 tion is also to be found at Asiago, and 
 bearable, though rough, quarters may 
 be had at Pieve di Val Arsa, Val dei 
 Signori, and other villages where the 
 naturalist may be tempted to halt. 
 The road from Trent to Bassano through 
 Val Sugana, and the passes leading 
 from the head of that valley to the 
 Adige, are not described here, being 
 more conveniently reserved for the next 
 section. 
 
 Few portions of the Alps offer so 
 many objects of interest to the geologist 
 as are to be found in this district. In 
 many places the triassic and overlying 
 secondary strata abound in fossils, while 
 the eocene deposits of Monte Bolca have 
 supplied the richest and most various 
 materials for fossil ichthyology. To 
 other deposits of the same age may be 
 referred the magnificent vegetable re- 
 mains described by the late Prof. Mas- 
 solengo. and by Prof. E. de Visiani of 
 the University of Padua. The entire 
 district is remarkable for the intrusion 
 of igneous rocks in the form of lava, por- 
 phyry, and columnar basalt, the latter 
 
 I being especially developed in the neigh- 
 
 b2
 
 420 S. TYROL AXD VENETIAN ALPS. § 58. RECOARO DISTRICT. 
 
 IfOiirhood of Monte Eolca. The impor- 
 lant memoir by Sir E. Murchison, ' On 
 rlie Geological Structure of the Alps, 
 the Apennines, and the Carpathians,' 
 already referred to in the introduction 
 to this work, is not so easily procured 
 as the Italian version also mentioned. 
 The i-eader will there find much raluable 
 information respecting the structure of 
 the Vicentine Alps, with instructive 
 sections, some of which were originally 
 published by the same eminent geolo- 
 gist in 1829. A more detailed account 
 of the district is found in a work by Ma- 
 raschini, entitled ' Saggio s\illa Forma- 
 zione delle Eoccie Vicentine,' Padova, 
 1824 ; and the traveller will find more 
 complete and more recent information 
 on the neighbourhood of Eecoaro in a 
 memoir by Herr Schauroth, the title of 
 which is given in the Introduction. The 
 region is classic ground to the geologist, 
 having been illustrated in the last cen- 
 tury by the writings of Arduini, Fortis, 
 and Strange, and in more modern times 
 by the writers already cited, and by Mar- 
 i^ari Pencati, Massalongo, and Lodovico 
 Pasini. The last-named em'inent geolo- 
 gist may probably give to the world a 
 more complete account of this interest- 
 ing region than any which has yet 
 appeared. The scientific traveller is 
 further referred to Count Caspar v. 
 Sternberg's * Eeise durch Tyrol in die 
 Oesterreichischen Provinzen Italiens.' 
 Eegensburg, 1806, a work containing 
 much curious information. 
 
 The continued search for fossils by 
 resident geologists, and the visits of 
 eminent foreigners, have developed the 
 liabit of observing such objects among 
 natives of himibler position, and there 
 are several men in this district whose 
 minute acquaintance with the spots 
 where fossils are most easily found is 
 of much value to a geological visitor. 
 One of these guides, by name Giovanni 
 Meneguzzi, is far superior to his col- 
 leagues, and from frequent association 
 with eminent geologists, has acquired a 
 considerable acquaintance with the geo- 
 logj' of his native province. He lives 
 at Montecchio Maggiore, near Vicenza, 
 
 and keeps collections of minerals and 
 fossils for sale. An older man, named 
 Catalan, lives at Schio ; he has less 
 education, and his local knowledge does 
 not seem to extend far from that place. 
 
 EOUTE A. 
 
 EOVEREDO TO VICEXZA, BY VAX ATiSA 
 AND SCHIO. 
 
 
 Italian 
 
 Eng. 
 
 
 geo. miles 
 
 miles 
 
 Pieve di Val Arsa 
 
 . 10 
 
 "i 
 
 Yal dei Signori . 
 
 7 
 
 8 
 
 Schio . 
 
 . 5 
 
 6| 
 
 Vicenza 
 
 . 16 
 
 18i 
 
 38 43| 
 
 Carriage-road fit for light vehicles. An 
 omnibus plies in summer as far as La Pieve di 
 Yal Arsa. 
 
 The stream of the Leno, which falls 
 into the Adige close to Eoveredo, is formed ■ 
 by the union of two torrents that meet 
 about H ni. above the town. The road 
 ascends above the rt. bank of the main 
 stream, overlooking some extensive 
 paper-mills and other factories, crosses 
 the Leno di Terragnolo (as the torrent 
 is called that issues from the eastern 
 branch of the valley), and then turns 
 nearly due S. along the rt. bank of the 
 Leno di Val Arsa. 
 
 The scenery of Val Arsa, which is 
 traversed in all its length by a road 
 completed by th*^ Austriuns about 1823,
 
 ROUTE A. SC. 
 
 421 
 
 of Val di Canale, a short glen of the 
 wildest character, enclosed between bare 
 limestone rocks, above which towers the 
 bold projecting point to which the name 
 Monte Pasubio is specially applied by 
 the inhabitants. Along the face of the 
 ery steep rocks forming the head of 
 
 is very pleasing, especially towards the . 
 
 upper end, where it is enclosed between j 
 
 6ome of the highest summits of the '• 
 
 Yicentine Alps. The road being rough 
 
 and rather steep, it is necessary to allow i 
 
 3 hours from Eoveredo to reach the 1 
 
 principal village —Pk-I's di Val Arsa i 
 
 (2,653') — often called in the valley j Yafdi Canale the traveller may some- 
 
 merely La Chiesa. There is here a i times descry moving objects, and will 
 
 rough but tolerable inn, where mules I ascertain with surprise that laden mules 
 
 may be had by travellers bound for Re- j and horses are driven that way from 
 
 coaro (Rte. C). From hence the moun- j Posina (Rte. H). After reaching the 
 
 taineer may ascend the Cima di Posta j upper plateau of the Monte Pasubio, 
 
 (7,547'), the hiohest summit in the | they descend towards XW. by a tole- 
 
 rauge dividing Val Arsa from Val di j rably easy track along the ridge of the 
 
 Eonchi. In the opposite direction, NE. 
 of the village, rises the Monte Pasubio 
 (7,326'), which is accessible by a very 
 steep goat-track, but much more easily 
 from the side of Terragnolo. It is well 
 to observe that the name Pasubio is 
 locally given to a projecting point of 
 rock, conspicuous from the neighbour- 
 hood of Vicenza, which is attainable by 
 a steep scramble along the ridge dividing 
 Val Arsa from Val dei Signori ; but the 
 true summit of the mountain, higher by 
 some 200 ft., lies some way to XXW., 
 and is here called Covelalto, sometimes 
 also L' Incudine. All the surrounding 
 heights are rich in rare plants. Andro- 
 sace Hausnianniana has been found on 
 the Cima di Posta ; Malabaila Hacquetii 
 and Cirsium Caniiolicum on Monte 
 Campogrosso, not far from the track to 
 Eecoaro ; Silene Alpestris and Primula 
 spectabilis on Monte Pasubio. 
 
 mountain called Col Santo (6.927'), 
 finally attaining the village of Trem- 
 beleno, lying in the fork between the 
 two branches of the Leno. 
 
 Through very agreeable scenery the 
 road descends from the head of Val dei 
 Signori to the principal village, which 
 bears the same name. It has a tolerable 
 inn. The traveller bound for Recoaro, 
 who wishes to reach that place by a still 
 easier walk than that from Pieve di Val 
 Arsa over the pass of Campo Grosso, 
 may follow the frequented mule-path 
 that leads in 2 hrs. to that gay water- 
 ing-place from the village of 'Val dei 
 Signori. 
 
 Following the road along the torrent, 
 here called Lcogra, which, after uniting 
 with the lesser stream called Timon- 
 chiello, assumes the name Timonchio^ 
 the traveller reaches 
 
 Schio (Inns: Stella, very fair; and 
 
 The road to Vicenza avoids Campo ! several of less note), a town 685 ft, 
 Silvano (Rte. C), the highest village j above the sea-level, whose neat appear- 
 in the valley, and passes on the N. side | ance indicates the presence of an indus- 
 of a bold peak, called O-ngio Alto to ; trious and thriving population. The 
 reach a comparatively low col — the j large factory of cloth and other woollen 
 Piano ddleFvgazze{\,\\T) — which here '■ fabrics belonging to Signor Rossi is one 
 marks the boundary between Tyrol and j of the most important m Italy. Signor 
 Italy, and between the waters of the j Lodovico Pasini, an eminent member of 
 Leno and those of the Timonchio. | the Italian Senate, best known abroad as 
 
 The bare limestone peaks that sur- j a geologist, resides here, and his valuable 
 round the head of Val dei Signori have j collection of minerals and fossils, chiefly 
 a very wild aspect ; but the scenery | from the Alps of this district, well de- 
 rapidly assumes a milder character as ; serves the attention of the scientific tra- 
 the traveller descends into the valley. | veller. NE. of the town rises the Monte 
 On the 1. hand, a short way below the j Sumano (about 4,300^, known to na- 
 Bummit of the pass, is seen the opening I turalists as a locality for rare plants
 
 4'22 S. TTROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 58. RECOARO DISTRICT. 
 
 and insects. It forms theSE. extromity 
 of the range diverging from the Monte 
 I'asubio -which divides Val dei Signori 
 from the valley of the Astico. The 
 traveller intending to visit the Sette 
 Oomuni may ascend the Monte Snmano 
 from this side, and then, after descend- 
 ing to Piovene (Etc. H), reach Asiago 
 1)V the new carriage-road. 
 
 The road from Schio to Vicenza crosses 
 the torrent from Val dei Signori. which 
 here receives the name Timonchio, and 
 is carried over a richly cultivated pl-ain 
 country to Malo (Ete. D), and thence 
 along the base of the hills to 
 
 Vicenza (Inns : Albergo Torresani, 
 near the gate leading to the rly. station, 
 an old house with a few large and hand- 
 some rooms, the rest veiy indifferent ; 
 .Stella, of less pretensions and cheaper ; 
 several others of less repute). A city 
 of the second order in point of size and 
 wealth, whose buildings may challenge 
 comparison with those of the greatest 
 towns of Eui'ope north of the Alps. 
 Whether the traveller regards the an- 
 cient palaces in the Venetian style, or 
 the more modern, but equally stately, 
 buildings with which Palladio adorned 
 this, his native city, he cannot but feel 
 admiration for a people that has left 
 such memorials of the epoch of its 
 former prosperity. Omnibuses run twice 
 a day from Vicenza to Schio, and also 
 to Bassano ; and once daily to Tiene. 
 
 EOUTE B. 
 
 VICENZA TO RECOARO. EXCITESIONS 
 FROM RECOARO. 
 
 Nature has done much to make Ke- 
 coaro one of the most attractive watering- 
 places in the Alps ; and the concourse of 
 visitors from Venice, Verona, and other 
 cities of Northern Italy, affords to the 
 stranger a glimpse of native society, 
 widely differing in its easy simplicity 
 and slight regard for conventional forms, 
 from that of the upper classes in En- 
 gland or France, The drawbacks on 
 these advantages, of which the most 
 serious is the insufficiency of accommo- 
 dation during the crowded season, may 
 probably be gradually removed, but 
 meantime the place well deserves at 
 least a passing visit, and will afford 
 interesting occupation to the geologist 
 who may be tempted to a longer stay. 
 
 The valley of the Agno, at the head 
 of which stands Eecoaro, is accessible 
 by carriage-road from three stations on 
 the railway from Verona to Venice — - 
 Vicenza, TaverneUe, and Montehello. 
 
 The last is most convenient for 
 travellers arriving from Verona ; but 
 it is not always provided with car- 
 riages, and the road from the Ta- 
 verneUe station is somewhat shorter. 
 The distance from Tavernelle is about 
 23 English m.— from Montebello or 
 Vicenza about 26 m. 
 
 Diligences ply to and fro, twice a day 
 in summer, from Vicenza and Taver- 
 nelle to Eecoaro, but a party travelling 
 together do better to engage a carriage. 
 The tariff, probably not altered since 
 the union of Venetia with Italy, was 
 as follows, in Austrian florins — equal 
 to 2i^ francs. 
 
 For 2-horse carriages. 
 
 fl. 
 
 Tavernelle to Eecoaro .... 7 
 
 Montebello or Vicenza to Eecoaro . . 8 
 
 Eecoaro to Tavernelle . . . . &J 
 
 Eecoaro to Montebello or Yicenza . . 6 
 
 Eor l-horse carriages. 
 
 Tavernelle to Eecoaro . . . 4i 
 
 Montebello or Vicenza to Eecoaro . . -'" 
 
 Recoai-o t-o Tavernelle . . . . '^h. 
 
 Pkecoaro to Montebello or Vicenza . . 4 *
 
 ROUTE B.— BECOARO. 
 
 42^ 
 
 For these charges the travellers are 
 entitled to the entire vehicle, and the 
 driver is not allowed to claim the 
 buonaman-o which he usually receives. 
 
 The roads leading from the three 
 places already mentioned unite a short 
 way below Castel Gomberto, where the 
 hills begin to close together on either 
 side of the Agno. Numerous large 
 ■villas belonging to the Vicentiue aristo- 
 cracy are seen on the heights on either 
 hand, and about 6 m. farther the tra- 
 veller reaches 
 
 Valdagno (885'), a small town, the 
 chief place in the valley of the Agno, 
 with a very fair inn. The chapel of 
 Sta. Maria in Panisacco, standing on 
 an eminence about ] m. from the town, 
 commands a fine view, but the path is 
 rather rough and steep for ladies. Lig- 
 nite of fair quality is worked at a spot 
 called La Cava dei Pulli, about 2 m. 
 from Valdagno, and petroleum is ex- 
 tracted from the overlying strata of 
 bituminous slate. 
 
 Above Valdagno the valley begins to 
 assume a more Alpine character, as the 
 stream of the Agno is contracted be- 
 tween the bases of the mountains on 
 either hand. The old rough road, con- 
 structed in 1817, on the line of the 
 ancient mule-track, has been improved, 
 and is now good. About half-way to 
 Recoaro is a spot called Nogara, a 
 favourite resort of idle visitors, who 
 find means for whiling away the after- 
 noon at two neat inns, where coffee and 
 other refreshments are served in green 
 arbours. The valley now turns nearly 
 due W,, and about 6 m. above Valdagno 
 the road crosses to the 1. bank of the 
 stream, and presently enters the village 
 of Recoaro. 
 
 This is built in straggling fashion, 
 along the northern slope of the valley, 
 there being scarcely any houses on the 
 opposite bank, but the chief mineral 
 spring issues from the mountain at a 
 considerable height on the S. side of 
 the stream, and the group of hotels 
 and other buildings round it is scarcely j 
 seen from the \-illag8. Hence visitors 
 to Eecoaro have to choose between the 
 
 hotels in the village and those at th« 
 mineral spring, or Fu7ite Leila. 
 
 Owing to the shape of the ground, 
 space in both places is restricted, the 
 rooms in all the hotels are small, and 
 lodging comparatively dear. The hotel 
 most frequented by the upper class of 
 visitors is the Vecchio Albergo Gior- 
 getti, close to the Fonte Lelia. Its de- 
 ficiencies are numerous, especially as 
 regards attendance ; but it is generally 
 full throughout the season, and the 
 evening is passed agreeably in a large 
 saloon, where the guests are often 
 amused by music and dancing. The 
 Nuovo Albergo Giorgetti serves to ac- 
 commodate guests who do not find room 
 in the older house. The Casino Gotico, 
 kept by F. Marzotto, is also close to the 
 Fonte Lelia. It is a small house, but 
 perhaps offers better accommodation and 
 attendance than its rivals. Of the 
 hotels in the village the best are Eu- 
 ropa. Due Mori, Trettenero, and La 
 Posta. Visitors who intend drinking 
 the waters usually prefer to lodge near 
 the spring, while those who resort hither 
 as a centre for excursions will find it 
 more convenient to remain in the vil- 
 lage. It must be remembered that the 
 place is very full during the months of 
 July and August, when it is prudent to 
 order rooms in advance. 
 
 The height of the parish chtireh is 
 1,502 ft. above the sea, and that of 
 the Fonte Lelia 1,678 ft. After cross- 
 ing the bridge near the Europa hotel 
 the carriage-road and several foot- 
 paths begin to ascend the well-planted 
 slope, which leads to the principal 
 source which has made the fortune of 
 Eecoaro. Donkeys are constantly 
 standing in the village for the benefit 
 of those too delicate or too indolent to 
 make the ascent on foot, as well as for 
 the longer excursions which form the 
 afternoon occupation of visitors. The 
 charges for hire aire regulated by tariff. 
 Besides the Fonte Lelia there are seve- 
 ral other mineral springs in the imme- 
 diate neighbourhood of Recoaro. The 
 most notable of these are th& Fonte 
 Amara, which is close to the first, and
 
 424 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. S 58. RECOAKO DISTRICT. 
 
 the Fonte del Capitello, and Fonte del 
 I'ranco, both on the slope of the valley 
 above the 1. bank of the Ango. All are 
 chalybeate springs, containing carbon- 
 ate of iron and free carbonic acid. In 
 some cases the waters of Fonte Lelia, 
 which contain a relatively large pro- 
 portion of the sulphates of lime 
 and magnesia, are less suitable than 
 those of the Capitello or Franco. 
 The number of water-drinkers at Ee- 
 coaro has been constantly increasing, 
 and of late years has sometimes ex- 
 ceeded 7,000. The beauty of the 
 scenery, the agreeable climate, cooler 
 by 6° or 7° Fahr. than that of the 
 towns iu the plain, and the many plea- 
 sant excursions to be made in the 
 Deighbourhood, combine to make this 
 a pleasant summer retreat ; but English 
 visitors will be apt to complain of the 
 accommodation, and especially of the 
 arrangements as to meals. Breakfast 
 is almost unknown, being reduced to a 
 cup of black coffee, or a bowl of light 
 broth; a heavy dinner is eaten at 2 p.m., 
 and a supper at 9 p.m. An English 
 family, wishing to remain some time 
 here, would do v/ell to engage lodgings 
 in a private house, of which there are 
 many available, and arrange meals to 
 suit their own taste. Of many excur- 
 sions, the only one practicable in a 
 carriage is by the road already de- 
 scribed to Nogara and Valdagno. 
 About i hr. distant from La N^gara is 
 a deep cleft in the mountain, called La 
 Spaocata, often visited by strangers : 
 numerous paths lead in various direc- 
 tions from the village, and the donkeys 
 of the place are used to carry strangers 
 up and down the steepest hills. Of the 
 shorter excursions, that to the sanctuary 
 of Santa Giuliana, returning by the 
 mineral spring of the same name, and 
 the paths leading westward along the 
 Agno towards the head of the valley, 
 are most to be recommended. A some- 
 what longer promenade is that to the 
 village of Val dei Signori (Rte. A), also 
 called Le Valli, about 2 hrs. distant. 
 
 A very agreeable walk, especially in- 
 teresting to the geologist, is that to the 
 
 Fonte Catulliana, passing the village of 
 liovegliava. This village stands on the 
 ridge that divides the valley of the 
 Agno from that of the Timonchio (Rte. 
 A). An unauthenticated tradition affirms 
 the former existence of a temple of Diana 
 on the site of the present parish church. 
 A tolerable path, frequented by donkeys 
 and their riders, leads to the top of the 
 ridge (about 2,300'?), whence the tra- 
 veller overlooks both valleys. To the 
 E. rises a summit called iV/onife Cwillina, 
 Hereabouts fossils of triassic age are 
 very abundant, and in tolerably good 
 condition. The path to the Fonte Ca- 
 Udliana (2,316') lies eastward, along 
 the flank of the Monte Civillina, at 
 first descending, then remounting to a 
 point on the N. side of the mountain, 
 where a spring, strongly impregnated 
 with sulphate of iron and other vitriolic 
 salts, is received in a reservoir, pre- 
 paratory to being bottled and sent to a 
 distance. A very few drops suffice for 
 most visitors, the taste being nearly 
 intolerable. From a point near at 
 hand there is a fine view of Schio, 
 Tiene, and the plain extending eastward 
 to the city of the lagoons. 3 hrs. suffico 
 for this excursion, going and returning, 
 exclusive of halts. (See Ete. D.) 
 
 The visitors to Eecoaro usually limit 
 their efforts in mountaineering to the 
 ascent of a projecting point in the ridge 
 on the S. side of the village called 
 Monte Spitz. The ascent (about 1,000 
 ft.) usually occupies 1 hr. After ad- 
 miring the view, most visitors descend 
 by Fongara, and thence follow a path 
 that leads in ^ hr. to the Spaccata. 
 The high-road from Valdagno to Ee- 
 coaro is rejoined at Nogara. 
 
 The mountaineer who may be led to 
 spend a few days at this pleasant water- 
 ing-place will necessarily be attracted 
 by tlae range of grey craggy peaks that 
 close the head of the valley of the 
 Agno, and form the most striking ob- 
 ject in all the views near Eecoaro. The 
 highest summit — Cima di Posta (7,547') 
 — is not (?) visible from this side, and 
 is far more conveniently accessible 
 from Val Arsa (Ete. A) than from Ke»
 
 ROUTE C— PASSO DELLA LORA. 
 
 425 
 
 coaro. Ladies -who can ride should not ! 
 fail to make the excursion to Campo 
 Grosso f next Rte.). The beauty of the 
 vegetation in the early summer season 
 ^ylll amply reward the effort. The bota- 
 nist will enjoy a pleasant excursion by 
 effecting a rather steep and rough ascent 
 to the ridge immediately N. of the pre- 
 cipitous crags conspicuous from Eecoaro. ; 
 There is here an unfrequented pass 
 leading to Yal Arsa— called Passo delle 
 Buse Sciire. The more frequented way 
 is noticed in the next Rte., where there 
 is also a notice of the Passo di Lora, 
 which affords the most direct course to 
 the traveller who would ascend the Cima 
 di Posta from Eecoaro. 
 
 EOITTE C. 
 
 EECOARO TO EOVEREDO. 
 
 1. By Campo Grosso. About 19 m. 
 
 Of the many visitors who come from 
 Tyrol to drink the Eecoaro waters, 
 nearly all arrive by way of Val Arsa. 
 Having reached the village of La Pieve 
 (Rte. A), they commonly engage mules 
 or donkeys for the remainder of the 
 way. This is an easy and agreeable 
 walk of about 3 hrs. over the ridge of 
 Campo Grosso. The ascent on the Val 
 Arsa side is gradual — passing Campo 
 SUvano, with a tolerable country inn, 
 the highest village in that valley — and 
 there would be little difficulty in carry- 
 ing a road to the summit of the ridge 
 (about 4-,500'?); but the descent to- 
 wards Eecoaro is comparatively steep, 
 ofTeiiag at the same time fine views of 
 
 the head of the Valley of the Agno. 
 The traveller intending to put up in the 
 village should follow the track on the 1. 
 bauk of the stream ; but if bound for 
 the hotels near the Fonte Lelia, he 
 should. choose the path on the rt. bank 
 and follow a new track leading to his 
 destination by an easy and gradual as- 
 cent. The pedestrian having time to 
 spare may diverge from the ridge to- 
 wards the Passo delle Buse Scure, 
 mentioned among the excursions from 
 Eecoaro, and reach his destination by 
 a much steeper path. 
 
 2. By the Passo della Lora. 7 hrs. 
 to Ala — Eailway thence to Eoveredo. 
 
 Viewing from Eecoaro the high dolo- 
 mite crags that close the head of the 
 valley of the Agno, the traveller will 
 observe, a little to the 1. of the higher 
 summits, where the ridge subsides in 
 height by fully 1,000 ft., a long slope 
 of limestone debris extending from top 
 to bottom of the moxintain, and will be 
 surprised to learn that this uninviting 
 slope is traversed by a frequented path, 
 and is even used at times by beasts of 
 burden. Though steep, it is less so 
 than it appears to be from a distance ; 
 and a well-worn track is carried in 
 zigzags up the declivity. It is less dis- 
 agreeable to the feet than might be 
 expected, but an early start is advisable, 
 as the heat of the sun beating on the 
 stony surface is oppressive, and trying 
 to the eyes. The summit of the pass is 
 5,720 ft. in height, according to ]\I.*H. 
 "VVolff. Having attained this point, the 
 traveller supposes that he is about to 
 descend into one of the tributary valleys 
 of the Adige, but if he were unwarily 
 to take the path to the 1. that leads 
 downwards into the head of the valley 
 below him, he would be carried due S. 
 along the Hlasi torrent, through the 
 district described in Ete. F. The way 
 to Eoveredo keeps to the rt. along the 
 flank of the mountain, descending slightly 
 to reach a poor mountain osteria, and 
 then reascends by a short but steep 
 climb to the Passo di Revelio that sepa- 
 rates the head of Val d' Hlasi from that 
 of Val di Eonchi. Through this lattar
 
 426 S. Ti'ROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 58. 
 
 ralley lies the way to Ala on the Adige. 
 The village of Ronchi (2,275') lies on 
 the slope high above the rt. bank of the 
 torrent, but the shortest way to Ala is 
 by the opposite bank. A very steep 
 stony track, extremely trying to beasts 
 of bnrden. leads down to the head of 
 this picturesque glen, and thenceforward 
 follows thel. bank of the torrent, partly 
 through forest, partly over stony ground 
 overgrown by straggling bushes. This 
 way is very little frequented, but is on 
 the whole more interesting to the pe- 
 destrian than that by Val Arsa. 
 
 On the way between the Passo della 
 Lora and that of E-evelto. the traveller 
 leaves on the rt. a sort of gap in the 
 mass of dolomitic crags, whose highest 
 summit is the Cima di Posta. If the 
 writer was not misinformed, this affords 
 the most direct way of attaining that 
 summit from Eecoaro; but it is diffi- 
 cult to rely on the information given at 
 that place as to the higher peaks, which 
 fail to attract the attention of visitors 
 or of the inhabitants. 
 
 KECOARO DISTRICT. 
 
 EOTJTE D. 
 SCHIO TO EECOAEO. 
 
 The distance between these places is 
 trifling, but the district is so interesting 
 to geologists that it seems desirable to 
 call attention to it by noticing the paths 
 here pointed out under a separate head- 
 ing. 
 
 I 1, Carriage-road by Malo and Vol' 
 I dagno. 22 m. The traveller arriving 
 j from the N., and wishing to reach Re- 
 ! coaro by carriage-road, may best take 
 I the way from Eoveredo to Schio, de- 
 I scribed in Et«. A, and there hire an- 
 : other vehicle for Eecoaro. The road to 
 j Viconza is followed as far as Malo. A 
 ! fairly good country road there turns 
 SW., and ascends gently between the 
 hills. The direct way to Valdagno lies 
 about due W., but the road following the 
 sinuosities of the ground winds nearly 
 due S. till it approaches near to Castd 
 Go'oiberto, when it again turns west- 
 ward, and joins the post-road to Ee- 
 coaro, described in Ete. B. 
 
 2. By Magre and Novale. 5 or 6 hrs. 
 walking, exclusive of halts. In the im- 
 portant memoir mentioned in the intro- 
 duction to this section, Sir Eoderick 
 Murchison has given an instructive sec- 
 tion of the mountain rising W. of Magre, 
 a village lying olf the high-road, less 
 than a mile from Schio. The lower 
 part of the mountain near the village is 
 formed of grey scaglia — the equivalent 
 of our chalk — and in ascending from 
 that side the traveller comes in succes- 
 sion on the outcrop of the overlying 
 strata, which dip gently to the west- 
 ward. The upper beds of red and white 
 scaglia, containing characteristic fossils, 
 are traversed by trap-dykes. These 
 alternate with volcanic grit or tufa, and 
 as he ascends he finds the latter deposit 
 containing nummulites, and overlaid by 
 the nummulitic limestone which is de- 
 veloped so extensively in this part of 
 the Alps. It seems evident that the 
 tufa beds have been formed from vol- 
 canic ejections in many successive periods 
 of eruption during the latter portion of 
 the cretaceous epoch, and the commence- 
 ment of the eocene epoch. Striking 
 across the hills to S\V., several spots 
 may be seen where eruptive rocks have 
 been forced at a still later period 
 through the nummulitic limestone. 
 Keeping in the same direction, vrith 
 the help of a guide acquainted with the 
 locality, the traveller may visit the very 
 interesting tertiary beds of the Vol
 
 ROUTE E. — MONTEBELLO TO RECOARO. 
 
 427 
 
 ddle Fosse, nearly 1 m. from Novale in 
 the valley of the Agno. These produce 
 a great variety of vegetable remains, of 
 which 74 species have been described 
 and figured by Professors Visiani and 
 Massalongo. The place whence these 
 fossils have been extracted is of small 
 extent, and is so much covered by vege- 
 table soil that it is not easily found. 
 Thence it is best to descend to Novale, 
 a village on the 1. bank of the Agno, 
 about 1 ra. N. of Yaldagno (Kte. B), 
 whence the post-road leads to Eecoaro. 
 3. Bi/ the Val dcgli Z^iccanti. About 
 3^ hrs. At some period subsequent to 
 the deposition of the scaglia limestone, 
 which is the geological equivalent of 
 our chalk, a vast mass of igneous rock, 
 of that variety of porphyry called py- 
 roxene, issued from a crater near the 
 present -village of Fongara, S. of Re- 
 coaro, and flowed NE. across the exist- 
 ing valley of the Agno and that of the 
 Leogra, tei-minating against a barrier 
 of Jurassic limestone near Tretto. The 
 course of this ancient lava-stream, and 
 its action on the surrounding rocks, may 
 best be studied in the Val degli Zuccanti, 
 through which a path descends towards 
 the Leogra from the ridge above Rove- 
 glimia, mentioned in Ete. B among 
 the excursions from Recoaro. The most 
 direct course is to follow the high-road 
 to a point about 2 m. W. of Schio, and 
 then with a local guide follow a path 
 leading to the Val degli Zuccanti. This 
 excursion may, however, be combined 
 with a visit to Magre, and the section 
 of the adjoining mountain above de- 
 scribed. An examination of the strati- 
 fied rocks in the neighbourhood of the 
 porphyry will tend to modify the views 
 of those geologists who have attributed 
 to the outburst of igneous rock at Fon- 
 gara the conversion into dolomite of the 
 adjoining range of Jurassic limestone. 
 It will be seen that the porphyry does 
 exert some metamorphic action on the 
 scaglia and the underlying grit, which 
 corresponds to our greensand, and fur- 
 ther that it has in places upheaved and 
 fractured the adjoining beds; but its 
 action in both respects, and especially 
 
 the former, is limited to a very short 
 distance from the actual line of contact. 
 As mentioned in Rte. B, triassic fossils 
 are found in abundance near the summit 
 of the ridge overlooking the valley of 
 the Agno, whence the traveller descends 
 to Recoaro by Rovegliana. 
 
 ROTJTB E. 
 
 MONTEBKLrO TO EECOAKO, BY A£ZI6NA- 
 NO AND CRESPADOEO. 
 
 The mountain region lying between 
 the Agno and the Adige is drained by 
 torrents, often nearly dry in summer, 
 that flow southward into the plain of 
 Venetia. The most important of these, 
 and the only streams that penetrate 
 deeply into the mass, are the ChUonpo, 
 the lllasi, the Sqnaranto, and the Fan- 
 tena. Of these the first named is that 
 lying immediately W. of the Agno, and 
 the valley which it drains is perhaps 
 the most interesting to geologists of any 
 in this part of the Alps. The moun- 
 tains, which increase gradually in height 
 as the traveller goes northward, exhibit 
 in varied phases the traces of past ig- 
 neous action. The most interesting of 
 these are the masses of columnar ba- 
 salt that probalily owe their origin to 
 subaqueous volcanic action, the basalt 
 having perhaps been ejecttd in the 
 state of highly heated semi-liquid mud. 
 To the sudden destruction of the fislv
 
 428 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 58. HECOARO DLSTRICT. 
 
 in a shallow sea, caused by such erup- 
 tions, •we probably owe the extraordi- 
 nary abundance of fossil fish for which 
 the quarries of Monte Bolca have long 
 been famous, and which have been so 
 completely illustrated in the classical 
 work of Prof. Agassiz. The fossil 
 plants found in adjacent beds of the 
 same eocene formation, nearly as re- 
 markable and as well preserved as the 
 fish, have been chiefly brought to light 
 and illustrated by the late Signor Mas- 
 salongo of Verona, whose early death 
 has been a serious loss to natural 
 science. 
 
 Arzignano, the first considerable vil- 
 lage in the valley of the Cliiampo, is 
 about 6 m. from the Montebello station 
 on the railway from Vicenza to Verona, 
 and about 1 m. more distant from the 
 Tavernelle station, which, in summer, 
 is better supplied- with vehicles. From 
 Arzignano the road follows the 1. bank 
 of the torrent to Chiampo. Lignite has 
 been worked in open quarries on either 
 side of the valley. At Chiampo the 
 geologist will leave the line of the main 
 valley, and follow the track to Vestena. 
 Tiie latter village stands near the head 
 of a glen traversed by a torrent from 
 Monte Bolca. Columnar basalt is here 
 developed on a large scale, especially 
 at a place where the torrent, hemmed 
 in between a serried mass of prismatic 
 columns on either hand, falls over a 
 ridge of the same formation. This spot, 
 which is figured in Sternberg's 'Eeise' 
 (see introduction to this section'), ex- 
 hibits one of the finest examples of 
 columnar basalt on the continent of 
 Europe. 
 
 From Vestena the geological traveller 
 will ascend to the famous quarries of 
 Monte Boka. The church of the vil- 
 lage of Bolca is seen from a distance, 
 but the ascent is rather long. It will 
 be weU. to get some slight refreshment 
 at the village inn before continuing the 
 ascent to the quarries. It is not easy 
 to obtain good specimens of fossils on 
 the spot, as the quarrymen are accus- 
 tomed to reserve them for regular cus- 
 tomers. Apart iroiQ. its fossils the 
 
 Monte Bolca is a singular mountain', 
 well deserving a visit. On the NE. 
 side is a large crater, whence streams of 
 lava have fiowed in various directions. 
 Above this crater is a projecting mass 
 of rock, which, on a nearer approach, 
 is found to be formed of columnar ba- 
 salt. On the western slope the surface 
 stratum is formed of pozzolana. On 
 the SW. side, at about two-thirds of 
 the height of the mountain, are the fa- 
 mous quarries. The rock is a marly 
 limestone with slaty cleavage, of eocene 
 age, and the remains of fishes and 
 plants, separated by a comparatively 
 thin layer of stone, are found in tho 
 lowermost beds. 
 
 Returning towards the valley of the 
 Chiampo by the village of 13olca, a 
 steep descent leads thence in less than 
 1 hr. to Crespadoro (1,109'). Here the 
 traveller bound for Recoaro has a choice 
 of routes. The mountaineer will pre- 
 fer to follow the valley northward for 
 some distance, and, on reaching the 
 hamlet of Langri, may follow a direc- 
 tion nearly due N. across the moimtain 
 ridge that divides him from Recoaro. 
 The distance is not great, but the ascent 
 is considerable, and o or 6 hrs. shoidd 
 be allowed for the walk from Crespa- 
 doro. 
 
 To the geologist it is probably a more 
 interesting course to go from Crespa- 
 doro to Valdagno. The direct track, 
 crossing a low pass (2,4o8'\ leads to 
 that place in about 2 hrs. It is, how- 
 ever, advisable to make a slight detour 
 in order to visit the ancient crater of 
 Marano on the ridge between Crespa- 
 doro and Castelvecchio. This is one of 
 the largest of the ancient craters of 
 this district. Two considerable lava- 
 streams have flowed from it, one 
 towards each of the above-named vil- 
 lages, through depressions that must 
 have existed at the time of the erup- 
 tions. The eminences immediately sur- 
 rounding the crater are composed of 
 pozzolana, but in the crater itself is 
 found a singular volcanic conglomerate 
 enclosing bivalve shells. As a general 
 rule, the volcanic rocks of this district!
 
 KOUTE F. VAL D ILLASI. 
 
 429 
 
 .1X9 singularly bare of vegetation, and 
 the Lofanist will find less to interest 
 him than in the valleys next to be no- 
 ticed. 
 
 RorTE F. 
 
 CAI.D1ERO TO ALA, OR RECOARO, BY THE 
 VAL d' ILLASI. 
 
 To the traveller wishing to stndy the 
 geological structure of this district, and 
 its singular volcanic phenomena, the 
 valley of Illasi offers as many advan- 
 tages as that of Chiampo, and the two 
 main objects of interest — the basalt 
 columns of Vestena and Monte Bolca 
 — may be visited as well from Badia 
 Calavena as from Crespadoro, while 
 better accommodation is probably avail- 
 able at the former village. 
 
 Illasi is most conveniently reached 
 from the railway station of Caldiero, 
 whence it is about 4 m. distant. Seve- 
 ral stately buildings were erected here 
 in the last century- by a member of the 
 Pompei family, who united ample 
 means with a professional study of 
 architectiu-e. The largest of these 
 buildings — an immense villa in pala- 
 tial style — is the residence of the pre- 
 sent Count Pompei. Strangers are 
 readily permitted to walk through the 
 extensive grounds, laid out after the 
 fashion of an English park ; and those 
 who have half an hour to spare will do 
 
 well to ascend the hill included within 
 the park, crowned by the ancient castle 
 of tlae same family, which commands 
 an extensive view of the suirounding 
 i country. 
 
 A good road is carried along the 
 eastern side of the Illasi. passing Trc- 
 gnago (1,091'), where there is a tole- 
 'rable inn. 
 
 On the slopes on either side of this 
 valley, and in the neighbouring valleys 
 nearer to Verona, the botanist may 
 gather many southern species of plants, 
 rarely seen so near to the Alps. 
 Among these raa}-^ be mentioned Coro- 
 niUa scorpioides, Bupleurii/n rotundi- 
 foliiim, AsptruJa arven-sis, Valerianella 
 echmata, and Koeleria phlcoides. 
 
 The chief place in the valley is Badla 
 Calavena, about 7 m. X. of Illasi. As 
 already mentioned, this is a convenient 
 starting-point for a visit to the basaltic 
 rocks of Vestena, or to Monte Bolca. 
 The walk is longer than from Crespa- 
 doro, but the ascent rather less con- 
 siderable. Those who wish to visit the 
 Monti Lessini (see next Pte.) may 
 ascend from Badia to the village of 
 Saline (2,903'), on the ridge dividing 
 this valley from Val Squaranto, and 
 cross that valley to reach the larger 
 village of Cerro, where they may pro- 
 bably find be-tter quarters. If bound 
 for the valley of the Adige, or for 
 Recoaro, the traveller will do best to 
 follow the stream of the Illasi to its 
 source. A few miles beyond Badia the 
 valley assumes a more Alpine charac- 
 ter, being enclosed between the Monte 
 Porto (5,115') on the E., and Monte 
 Fnrga (4,199') on the W. side. 
 
 Tiie head of the valley, reached in 3i- 
 hrs. from Badia, is closed by the high 
 dolomite crags of the group culminat- 
 ing in the Cima di Posta. The pass of 
 Revelto leads on the 1. hand to Ala ou 
 the Adige, and that of La Lora, on the 
 rt., to Recoaro. See Rte. C.
 
 430 S. TTROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 58. RECOARO DISTRICT. 
 
 pctrcea, lonj; supposed to be confinpcl to 
 Monte Baldo. The chief place in Po- 
 destaria is Chicsa Nova, where it is said 
 that a stranger may find tolerable quar- 
 ters. From the summit of the plateau 
 a path descends through a short steep 
 glen to Ala on the Adige (§ o7, Rte. A). 
 For the traveller who may approach 
 this district through Val Sqicaranto, the 
 best chance of finding accommodation 
 is at Cerro, a village on an eminence 
 above the W. side of that valley. 
 
 EOTJTR Q. 
 "VBaONA TO AlA, BY THE MOXTI 
 
 IJBSSI>^. 
 
 The mountain district lying between 
 the upper valley of Illasi and the 
 Adige is collectively known as the 
 Monti Lessini. It is chiefly drained by 
 the torrents Pantena and Squaranto, 
 which fall into the Adige near Verona, 
 and is most conveniently accessible 
 through the valleys which bear the 
 same names. The northern portion, 
 towards the Tyrolese frontier, exhibits 
 the peculiar plateau character which on 
 a larger scale is found in the Sette 
 Comuni (Etc. I). This is, however, 
 more exclusively a pastoral district, 
 having but a small population distri- 
 buted in a few scattered hamlets. The 
 highest summit of the district is the 
 Mcmte To/nba (6,484')- Probably ow- 
 ing to its vicinity to so many places 
 of special interest, this tract has been 
 strangely neglected by all travellers, 
 including the present writer, and he is 
 able to give but scanty information re- 
 specting it. The larger portion of the 
 plateau, lying within the province of 
 Verona, is locally named Podestaria, 
 and belongs to a few Veronese proprie- 
 tors. The most interesting route for 
 anyone disposed to explore this neg- 
 lected tract is doubtless that through I 
 Vol Pantena. The first considerable j 
 village is Grezzana (597')- Oii the 
 limestone N. of that -village the botanist ] 
 xnaj gather the very rare Campanula \ 
 
 ROTTTB H. 
 
 SCHIO TO TRENT, BY THK VALLEY OF 
 THE ASTICO. 
 
 Of the numerous streams that flow 
 southward into the plain of Venetia, 
 between the Brenta and the Adige, the 
 most considerable, and that which pene- 
 trates most deeply into the mountains, 
 is the Astico. This divides the group 
 of peaks NW. of Schio, that culminates 
 in the Pasubio, from the plateau of the 
 Sette Comuni, described in the next 
 Ete. This valley ofifers an agreeable 
 and convenient way for a pedestrian 
 going from Schio (or Vicenza) to the 
 head of Val Sugana, or to Galliano in 
 the valley of the Adige, either route 
 being a tolerably direct course for 
 Trent. 
 
 The traveller starting from Vicenza, 
 who has no occasion to visit Schio, may
 
 ROUTE H. — VALLEY OF THE ASTICO. 
 
 431 
 
 fake a more divect coiu-se for the valley 
 of tlie Astico, passing through Tv7ie, a 
 thriving country town, and Piovene, a 
 village picturesquely situated at the foot 
 of Monte Sumano. 
 
 Starting from Schio, the easiest 
 course is likewise by the road leading 
 by S. Orso to Piovene ; but the tra- 
 veller who would escape from the heat 
 of the alluvial plain that stretches E. 
 and S. of Schio, will prefer a path that 
 crosses the ridge between the Monte 
 Valpiana and Monte Sumano. The way 
 lies due N. from Schio, and the height 
 of the pass is 3,112 ft. The geologist 
 or the botanist will, however, prefer to 
 either alternative the ascent of the 
 Monte Sumano. This mountain is a 
 sort of promontory, extending south- 
 eastward from the range of the Pasubio, ! 
 and, though only about 4,300 ft. in ! 
 height, is conspicuous from the neigh- j 
 bourhood of Vicenza by its bold conical i 
 form. It has long been kno-mi to i 
 botanists for the many rare plants for- 
 merly found there. Some of these have 
 disappeared, or become very scarce 
 under the teeth of cattle and goats, but 
 it still will reward careful examination, 
 especially if visited in the early sum- 
 mer. 
 
 In the memoir already frequently re- 
 fen-ed to, Sir R. Murchison has given a 
 section of the rocks to NNW. of Sant' 
 Orso— a village about 2 m. from Schio, 
 close to the foot of the Monte Sumano, 
 wherein the strata, from the lower 
 neocomian to the newer tertiary are 
 shown to have been folded over, so as 
 to lie in reversed order, by the intrusion 
 of a considerable mass of porphyry. 
 The upper part of the mountain is 
 formed of Jiirassic limestone. Accord- 
 ing to local tradition, an altar to Pluto 
 once stood on the summit of the moun- 
 tain, and on the same site a monastery 
 was afterwards raised, of which scarcely 
 any traces are now visible. The view 
 from the top will reward even those 
 travellers who may make the ascent 
 without any scientific object. 
 
 The NE. face of Monte Sumano, over- 
 looking the valley of the Astico, is very 
 
 steep, and those wlio do not desire a 
 stiff scramble, will either descend by 
 the rough path leading to Picvene, or 
 follow the ridge to NW., until they 
 reach the col, above mentioned, be- 
 tween this and Monte Valpiana, whence 
 a tolerable path leads by Velo to the 
 hamlet of Seghe. This place, which 
 may be reached by a country road from 
 Piovene, about 5 m. distant, stands at 
 the junction of the Posina torrent with 
 the Astico. A track goes eastward by 
 Arsicro to the village of Posina, whence 
 Eoveredo may be reached by a fine 
 mountain walk over the Monte Pasubio, 
 and along the ridge of Col Santo (see 
 Rte. A), or by an easier track, that 
 leads NNW. from Posina over a pass 
 but 4,004 ft. in height, to the head of 
 the Val di Terragnolo. 
 
 For about 9 m. above the junction 
 the valley of the Astico extends due N. 
 Near the junction of the Assa torrent, 
 descending from the Sette Comuni (Rt^. 
 K), the track crosses to the 1. bank, 
 and, after passing several poor hamlets, 
 resumes its NW. direction a little be- 
 yond Zacolo. A walk of about 9 m. 
 more will caiTy the traveller to the 
 height of land near the village of San 
 Sebastiano, whence the drainage flows 
 partly to the Astico, partly westward to 
 the Adige through Val Folgaria, and 
 partly NE. through Val Centa to Val 
 Sugana. The track through Val Eol- 
 garia leads to the Galliano station be- 
 tween Poveredo and Trent, and that 
 through Val C^nta, passing Lavarone 
 (3,619'), will conduct the traveller to 
 Pergine, and by the high-road to Trent. 
 See § 69, Rtes. A and B.
 
 432 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 58. RECOARO DISTRICT. 
 
 The district distinguished by these 
 singxdar physical features has, from a 
 pei-iod of remote antiquity, been in- 
 habited by a peculiar population, un- 
 doubtedly of German origin, as to whose 
 ethnic affin^ies writers have advanced 
 various speculative opinions. That 
 commonly held among the inhabitants, 
 but unsupported by any vestige of evi- 
 dence, refers their origin to a tribe of 
 Cimbri defeated by Marius in the neigh- 
 bourhood of Verona. Better supported 
 by some degree of historical warrant is 
 the belief which identifies these people 
 with a tribe of Allemanni, who settled 
 iu this region, under Theodoric, King of 
 the Groths, about the end of the 5th 
 century. Count Sternberg, in the work 
 mentioned in the introduction to this 
 section, has given several specimens of 
 the dialect which at the time of his 
 visit, in 1803, was commonly spoken by 
 the people. Though marked by some 
 peculiar words and phrases, and con- 
 taining a good many others derived 
 from the Italian, it is nearly allied to 
 those of S. Bavaria and of the northern 
 Cantons of Switzerland. During the 
 last 20 or 30 years Italian has to a 
 
 EOUTE I. 
 
 VICENZA TO BASSANO, BY ASIAGO. THE 
 SETTE COMUNI. 
 
 The mountain district bounded on 
 the N. and E. by the Brenta, on the W. 
 by the Astico, and on the S. by the 
 plain of Venetia, is in many respects 
 unique in the Alps. The first striking 
 peculiarity to be noticed is the fact that, 
 with a single exception, no streams flow 
 from it. Saving the torrent of the Assa, 
 which carries off the rainfall of a small 
 corner of this district, we have here an 
 are;i of about 300 square miles, of which 
 it is literally true to say that in ordi- 
 nary weather it has no visible drainage. 
 Elsewhere, iu limestone countries, the 
 course of streams is subject to interrup- 
 
 tion, as the water sinks into cavities | great extent supplanted^ the ancient 
 and reappears at intervals ; but here, 
 except a few thirsty springs, and small 
 muddy pools that insufficiently supply 
 the wants of men and cattle, the sur- 
 face-water sinks at once into profound 
 crevices and subterranean channels, 
 through which it finally issues to day- 
 light on the outer verge of the district. 
 This peculiarity in the structure of the 
 country, by removing the chief agent 
 that niodifi"es the surface, has doubtless 
 largely contributed to maintain its phy 
 
 dialect, which is now spoken only by a 
 few of the older inhabitants. 
 
 The district has been known, from 
 time immemorial, by the designation 
 Sette Comurd, from the seven principal 
 villages— ^6/0^0 ( 3. 300'). G^fi^^w ( 3,609'), 
 Roana (3,288'), Enego, Foza, Lnsiana, 
 and Botzo (3,128'). 
 
 In addition to these there are 13 
 hamlets (contrade), and some smaller 
 clusters of houses. 
 
 From a very early period the people 
 
 sical features unaltered. The greater ! of this district enjoyed local self-govern 
 
 portion may be described as an undu- 
 lating plateau, varying in height from 
 about 3,200 to 4,500 It. above the sea- 
 level. At its northern side, however, 
 the plateau rises considerably into a 
 range of lofty summits that present a 
 very bold face towards Val Sngana. 
 The highest of these is the Cima delle 
 Dodici (7,651'), further mentioned in the 
 next Kte. 
 
 ment, and virtual independence, while 
 passing in succession under the nominal 
 protectorate of the city of Vicenza, the 
 Scaligers of Verona, the Dukes of Milan, 
 and finally, in 1404, of the Venetian 
 Kepublic. The first French invasion in 
 1796 seems to have spared this secluded 
 district, and when Venetia was ceded to 
 Austria by the treaty of Campo Fonnio 
 i the local privileges of the Sette Comuni
 
 ROUTE I. THE SETTE COMDNI. 
 
 433 
 
 were maintained, while the merely no- 
 minal annual tribute of 500 Venetian 
 lire, preyiouslj paid to the Venetian 
 Government, was increased to 25,000 
 lire, or about 500^. sterling. The local 
 poHce, maintained by watchmen appro- 
 priately called 'Fazio'iiidelquieto vivere,^ 
 and the supreme control of public affairs, 
 were vested, in a '■ Begenzd' composed of 
 two representatives sent by each Comune. 
 Their privileges included exemption 
 from taxation, tolls, and customs duties, 
 together ■nith the right of pasturing 
 cattle in the plain country in the pro- 
 vinces of Vicenza and Padua. 
 
 These privileges, together with the 
 6till more valuable rights of self-govern- 
 ment, were swept away in 1805, when 
 French rule was established over the 
 former territory of the Republic. 
 
 Until lately the plateau of the Sette 
 Comuni was accessible only by rough 
 tracks, impracticable for carriages. A 
 few years ago, direct communication 
 with Vicenza was established by a tole- 
 rably good road which ascends, by many 
 zigzags, the steep slope of the mountain 
 above Cogolo in the valley of the Astico. 
 The traveller who has reached that vil- 
 lage from Vicenza, by a good road 
 passing through Tiene (Rte. H), may 
 probably prefer to walk the remainder 
 of the way, a distance of about 10 m., 
 to Asiago. After surmounting the first 
 long and steep ascent, the road follows 
 for a time the channel of a stream which, 
 like most of those in this I'egion, is dry 
 except immediately after rain. But 
 before long the road attains the plateau, 
 and after some slight ascents and de- 
 scent seaches 
 
 A.iiago (Inns : Aquila d' Oro, and 
 two or three others, not bad for so 
 remote a place), the capital of the 
 Sette Comuni, deserving by its popu- 
 lation and the size of its buildings 
 the designation of a town. A new 
 church, unwisely commenced on a scale 
 worthy of a wealthier community, re- 
 mains unfinished. As may be expected 
 from its position, the climate of the i 
 plateau surrounding Asiago is imfriendly | 
 to vegetation. The winter and spring 
 
 6. T. F 
 
 climate is severe, and the sterility due 
 to the deficiency of water has been in- 
 creased by the felling of timber which 
 once covered much of the surface. Eye, 
 barley, and potatoes are the chief pro- 
 duce, but the main reliance of the 
 population is on their live-stock and 
 wool, for which there is an active de- 
 mand. Instead of following the line of 
 the new road to Asiago, the geologist 
 may well take a somewhat longer route, 
 which will give more insight into the 
 structure of the country, and is at the 
 same time more interesting in point of 
 scenery. This is by the old horse-track, 
 which quitted the valley of the Astico 
 ; just above the junction of the Assa, 
 and after a rapid ascent to Botzo 
 ; (3,12S'), is carried at a great height 
 i above the N. bank of the last-named 
 I torrent to Roana. Here a steep descent, 
 followed by an equally steep ascent, 
 carries the track to the opposite side of 
 the Assa, and in about 2 m. more the 
 j traveller reaches Asiago, The series of 
 ; formations exposed may be thus enu- 
 i merated in ascending order. 1. Dolo- 
 ' mitic limestone probably belonging to 
 : the lias. 2. Oolite of variable mineral 
 structure, the more compact beds con- 
 taining Diceras, GryphcEO, Nf:rincEa, and 
 j other shells. 3. An arenaceous lime- 
 j stone, with impressions of Xeuropterits, 
 : followed by a grey marly limestone 
 : with imperfect traces of large bivalves. 
 1 4. Oxfordian limestone, known to 
 Italian geologists as ' Ammonitico 
 I Eosso,' containing many characteristic 
 ; species of Amrnonites, Terebratida, &c. 
 5. Neocomian, or 'Biancone,' M-ith 
 i several species of Crioceras, Bdemnites, 
 Amr^'onites, and Apfychus. 6. Lower 
 Chalk, or 'Scaglia inferiore,' with im- 
 pressions of fi'.ci. 7. Upper Chalk, or 
 ! • Scaglia si;periore,' with flints in regu- 
 ' lar courses. 8. Nummulitic limestone, 
 ; with Cerithium gigoMieum, of eocene 
 I age, identical with beds seen on the rt. 
 bank of the Brenta near Bassano. The 
 I two last formations are better seen on 
 i the eastern side of the plateau than in 
 I the part N. of the Assa. 
 
 The most interesting excursions from
 
 434 
 
 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. 
 
 RECOARO DISTRICT. 
 
 Asiago are those in the direction of Val 
 Sugana, noticed in the next Ete. 
 
 A now road, which will probably be 
 completed before the end of 1868, will 
 lead from Asiago to Bassano in a SW. 
 direction across the plateau, descending 
 by Cojico to join the high-road between 
 Marostica and Bassano (Ete. L). For 
 the pedestrian there is a rather shorter 
 ■way by Bubbio. The chief temptation 
 to choose either of these courses is the 
 extensive view over the plain of Venetia 
 which the traveller gains on reaching 
 the southern verge of the plateau. 
 Padua, and many smaller towns and 
 villages, are laid out as on a map, and 
 in very clear weather the towers of 
 Venice are distinctly seen in the eastern 
 horizon. Sometimes, even, the range 
 of the Bolognese Apennine, rising in 
 the far distance beyond the Enganean 
 hills, closes the view southward. 
 
 On the whole, the most interesting 
 way to Bassano is by Yalstagna. A 
 track passable for country carts is car- 
 ried over the undulating plateau, and 
 connects the chief villages together. 
 The way to Val Stagna lies somewhat 
 N. of E. to Gallio (3,609'), whence, 
 after passing a cross that stands on a 
 slight eminence, the track descends to 
 Eonchi. To the 1. is the bed of a 
 stream wherein little or no water is 
 seen except during wet weather, when 
 it is sometimes swollen to a furious 
 torrent. This leads to the narrow 
 gorge which affords the only passage 
 in this direction from the plateau to the 
 valley of the Brenta. The descent is 
 not rapid until, after passing a wayside 
 osteria, where bread and tolerable wine 
 are found, the track plunges into the 
 narrowest part of the gorge, where the 
 rocks on either hand almost overhang 
 the passage, which serves as a bridle-path 
 in clry weather, Imt after heav;)'rain be- 
 comes the channel of a furious torrent. 
 The cleft is locally known as II Buso 
 della Frenzena, and among other rare 
 plants the botanist may here gather 
 Cortitsa Matthioli and Philadelphus co- 
 ronarius. In the same spot the first- 
 named plant was discovered by Cortuso 
 
 in the 16th century. Throughout the 
 descent the path is extremely rough, 
 and quite impassable when the waters 
 take their course by this, instead of 
 their usual subterranean route. Acci- 
 dents have sometimes occurred to 
 travellers unable to retreat in time from 
 the track of the descending torrent. 
 2^ hrs. fully suffice for the descent, but 
 4 hrs. may well be allowed for the as- 
 cent from Valstagna to Asiago, especially 
 if the traveller has not made a very early 
 start, as the heat is often oppressive. 
 
 Valstagna is within 1 m. of Oliero, 
 which is described in § 59, Ete. A. 
 
 EOUTE K. 
 
 ASIAGO TO TEENT. 
 
 It has been already observed that the 
 plateau of the Sette Comuni rises at its 
 northern verge into a range of mode- 
 rately high summits, which in the oppo- 
 site direction overlook Val Sugana. The 
 crest of this mountain range forms the 
 frontier between that Tyrolese valley 
 and the Italian province of Vicenza. 
 Various paths lead across it to Val 
 Sugana ; and the traveller bound for 
 Trent may easily reach that city in one 
 day from Asiago. 
 
 1. By far the easiest course is that 
 by J'al cTAssa. As already observed, the 
 Assa is the only permanent torrent that 
 issues from the highland district of th^
 
 ROUTE K. — VAL DI PORTOLE. 
 
 435 
 
 Sette Comuui, of which it drains but a 
 small corner. The stream has excavated 
 a comparatively deep channel, which 
 must be traversed in going from Asiago 
 to the neighboxiriiig village of Roana. 
 The pedestrian who follows the opposite 
 bank will save some time by striking 
 across the imdulating plateau about due 
 WNW. from Asiago. After passing 
 above the small hamlet of Camporovere 
 over a rounded eminence, he descends 
 towards the Assa, and will find a beaten 
 track that leads along the E. slope at 
 some height above the stream. For 
 fully 5 m. the valley is nearly straight, 
 mounting gently a little W. of N. On 
 the rt. hand is passed the opening of 
 Val di Portole (see below), and about 
 1 hr. farther is a poor osteria called 
 Ghertele. Here the Assa is formed by 
 the junction of two minor torrents. The 
 more direct, but more laborious, way to 
 Val Sugana is by a track along the 
 branch that flows from NW. In about 
 1^ hr. from Ghertele another poor place 
 of refreshment, called Osteria delle 
 Porte, is found near the summit of the 
 pass, which, from the name of the ad- 
 joining summit, is known as Passo di 
 Manazzo. A rapid descent leads down 
 on the N. side, and takes the traveller 
 to the W. end of Val di Sella, about 
 f hr. from Levico. The more frequented 
 way from Ghertele is by the track fol- 
 lowing the western branch of the torrent. 
 In f hr. this leads to the Osteria del 
 Termine, a rough inn, somewhat supe- 
 rior to those already mentioned. Al- 
 though the watershed towards Val 
 Sugana lies considerably farther W., the 
 frontier of Tyrol here crosses the valley 
 from N. to S., following a zigzag course 
 to the head of the valley of the Astieo. 
 The way now lies through a broad up« 
 land valley, green with Alpine pastures, 
 and woods yet spared by the woodcutter. 
 To the hamlet of Veseva, which stands 
 in the midst, many inhabitants of the 
 neighbouring warm valleys resort in the 
 summer, putting up with rough fare 
 for the sake of the pure and fresh 
 mountain air. There is a tolerable inn, 
 but many visitors hire rooms in the few I 
 
 houses hereabouts, and carry with them 
 necessaries not to be had on the spot. 
 Due X. of the hamlet is the C'lTna V'sena 
 (6,237'), commanding a fine view of A'al 
 Sugana and the surrounding mountains. 
 The walk from Vesena to Levico is very 
 agreeable, and the path fit for riding, 
 which cannot be said of the other tracks 
 from Asiago to Val Sugana. The highest 
 point attained by the path is 4,662 ft. 
 above the sea. 
 
 About 5 hrs., exclusive of halts, 
 should be allowed for the walk from 
 Asiago to Levico,, whence the high-road 
 leads to Trent (§ 59, Ete. A). The 
 pedestrian who would reach Pergine by 
 the W. side of the lake of Caldonazzo 
 should engage a local guide at Vesena, 
 who will put him on a track which 
 much shortens the route to the village 
 of Caldonazzo. 
 
 2. By the Fal di Portole. After 
 entering the Val d' Assa from Asiago by 
 the course abeady described, the tra- 
 veller, taking the upper path above the 
 1. bank of the torrent, will reach the 
 opening of Val di Portole at a mode- 
 rate height above the streamlet that 
 descends through the latter glen. After 
 midsummer this is usually quite cby, 
 and in autumn the few springs that 
 exist at the head of the valley are also 
 liable to disappear. After turning ENE. 
 for a short distance, the ill-marked path 
 through Val di Portole resumes its 
 northerly direction, parallel to that of 
 Val d' Assa. The ascent is very gra- 
 dual, there being three successive steps, 
 each with a casera, or chalet. The 
 highest of these is but a short way 
 below a depression in the ridge closing 
 the head of the valley by which the 
 track crosses to Val Sugana. 
 
 The pass is called Porta di Portole. 
 The descent on the N. side towards 
 Val di Sella is steeper than the ascent, 
 but perfectly easy, and 1 hr. or less 
 suffices to reach the road that leads 
 through that valley to Borgo. 
 
 On several maps, the mountain W. 
 of the Porta is marked as Ciina di Por- 
 tole, but, according to local information, 
 that name properly belongs to the 
 2
 
 436 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 58. RECOAKO DISTRICT. 
 
 higher summit NE. of the pass, -which 
 is easily reached by keeping along the 
 ridge. The summit (about 7,300' ?) com- 
 mands a fine view ; but as it is over- 
 topped by the adjoining Cima delle Do- 
 dici, the latter is to be preferred. Many 
 I'are plants are found on the Cima di 
 Portole ; but the vegetation is less 
 Alpine in character than might be ex- 
 pected, doubtless owing to the dryness 
 of the surface. During the ascent, many 
 curious clefts and holes may be seen in 
 the limestone rocks, and at intervals 
 large circular depressions, from 20 to 
 30 ft. in diameter, and 10 or 12 ft. 
 deep. If he intend to return to Asiago, 
 the traveller may best descend from 
 the E. side of the Cima di Portole into 
 the head of Val Galmerara, an unin- 
 habited glen, parallel to Val di Portole, 
 whose stream (when it flows) joins that 
 from the latter valley, a short way above 
 its junction with the Assa. The shorter 
 way is to return by that way to Asiago ; 
 but it is easy to traverse the ridge E. 
 of Val G-almerara, and return by Val di 
 OaUio. 
 
 3. By Val di Gallio. The mountaineer 
 will prefer to both the above routes a 
 rather more circuitoiis coiirse, that ■will 
 include the ascent of the Ci/na delle Do- 
 dici (7,651'), the highest summit of 
 this district. This may be approached 
 by the Val G-almerara, mentioned above, 
 but more conveniently by the Val di 
 Gallio, which is reached from Asiago 
 by a p-Ath running somewhat E. of X., 
 without traversing the village of Gallio. 
 It is advisable to take a local guide, 
 althousrh the writer believes that there 
 is no difficulty in the ascent. Though 
 the aspect of this and the neighbouring 
 summits towards Val Sugana portends 
 a stiff scramble, it appears that in 
 reality the descent on the N. side is 
 easy. Instead of going directly down 
 into Val di Sella, the lover of caverns 
 may without much detour visit the 
 Grotto of Costalta, but it is necessary 
 to be provided with torches or other 
 means for lighting it. A narrow and 
 low entrance leads into an outer cavern 
 or antechamber, whence another narrow 
 
 j passage ushers the visitor into the prin- 
 I cipal cavern, said to be 70 ft. wide, 93 
 j ft. high, and 1,1 40 ft. long. Descending 
 into Val di Sella, the traveller may 
 1 either bear to the rt., to reach Borgo 
 ; di Val Sugana (§ 59, Ete. A), or, keep- 
 ing to the 1., follow the road to Levico. 
 I Those who wish to see more of the 
 I Sette Comimi than is included in the 
 routes already described, are recom- 
 mended to follow a track that leads NE. 
 from Gallio to Grigno in Val Sugana, 
 passing Marcesina. This district is well 
 known to the sportsmen of the neigh- 
 I bourhood, as ptarmigan, and other birds 
 I not often seen so near the plain of N. 
 I Italy, are found there. Owing, no doubt, 
 to the more compact nature of the rock, 
 j the ground is in places swampy, pro- 
 ducing marsh plants, and among others 
 the little northern shrub, Andromeda 
 ; poUfoUa, which has not been seen else- 
 i where in Italy. 
 
 I The inn at Marcesina may be reached 
 
 ' in about 6 hrs. from the summit of the 
 
 j Cima delle Dodici, and an active walker 
 
 I may on his way ascend the Cima ddle 
 
 I Uiidici, the adjoining peak, to NE., 
 
 [ only a few feet lower than its rival, 
 
 I Instead of following the mule-track, 
 
 which leads in about three hrs. fi-om 
 
 Marcesina to Grigno, the traveller may 
 
 follow a path somewhat S. of E. from 
 
 Marcesina to Enego, on the easternmost 
 
 extremity of the plateau of the Sette 
 
 Comuni, and immediately above the 
 
 Gorge of Primolano, into which he may 
 
 descend by a steep path. See § 59, 
 
 Ete. A. 
 
 The names Cima delle Dodici and C. 
 delle Undici have evidently originated 
 at Borgo di Val Sugana, where these 
 peaks mark the position of the sun at 
 noon and 11 a.m. respectively.
 
 ROUTE L. — MAROSTICA. 
 
 437 
 
 EorTE L, 
 
 TICENZA TO BASSANO, BY MAEOSTICA. 
 
 Carriage-road — 22 English miles. 
 
 Though not strictly speaking an 
 Alpine road, this deserves a brief notice 
 here, as it connects the district of which 
 Recoaro is the centre with those de- 
 scribed in the following sections. Al- 
 though the road is confined to the plain, 
 and runs nearly the entire way at a dead 
 level, there are few that offer more 
 beautiful Alpine views, especially in the 
 early spring, when the snow still lies 
 deep on the higher summits, and the 
 foliage of the mulberry and vine do not 
 so far screen the view as they commonly 
 do in the plains of Northern Italy. 
 There is another road, fully a mile 
 shorter — by Le Nove — but that by 
 Marostica is more interesting, and is 
 also that taken by the omnibuses that 
 ply twice daily between Vicenza and 
 Bassano. These vehicles travel tolera- 
 bly fast, and have a cabriolet, or opsa 
 coupe, from which a limited view of the 
 country is obtained. For several miles 
 from Vicenza the view of the Vicentine 
 Alps includes all the principal summits 
 mentioned in the preceding routes, ex- 
 cepting those forming the northern 
 boundary of the Sette Comuni. A 
 little N. of due W. is seen the great 
 mass of dolomite crags above Kecoaro, 
 that enclose the head of the valley of the 
 Agno, with the lower ranges that stretch 
 far to the S. till they subside into the 
 plain at Montebello, and San Bonifazio. 
 To the rt. of the Cima di Posta is a 
 very bold craggy peak — the Cengio Alto 
 — and beyond it a deep deprission, over 
 which is carried the road from Eoveredo, 
 described in Ete. A. Farther to the rt. 
 
 is another high mountain mass, nearly 
 flat at the top, but presenting a very 
 bold front, with projecting jagged teeth 
 of limestone rock. This is the mass 
 whose highest summit is the Pasubio ; 
 thence extends due E., a range connect- 
 ing the latter with Monte Valpiana, 
 and nearer still the Monte Sumano, 
 here showing a double peak, but easily 
 recognised by its regular conical form. 
 The opening to the rt. of Monte Sumano 
 marks the Valley of the Astico, and the 
 new road to Asiago, mounting in long 
 zigzags the steep slope on the NE. side 
 of the valley, is conspicuous from a dis- 
 tance. The outline of the great plateau 
 of the Sette Comuni presents no marked 
 features, and until the traveller ap- 
 proaches within a few miles of Bassano, 
 he will find it difficult to distinguish the 
 deep narrow clett through which the 
 Brenta issues into the plain. The 
 plateau formation extends to the E. of 
 that river, but the outline rises much 
 above the general level into the flattened 
 cone of Mte. Grappa, which is so con- 
 spicuous a landmark throughout the 
 provinces of Vicenza, Padua, and Treviso. 
 East of the Grappa is seen a vista of 
 distant summits terminating, when the 
 air is clear, with the bold outline of 
 Monte Cavallo in Friuli. 
 
 About 7 m. from Vicenza the road 
 crosses the Astico, here much reduced in 
 volume, as the larger part of the stream 
 is diverted from its course to supply 
 canals of irrigation. After passing San- 
 drigo and Schiavon, at a distance rather 
 exceeding 17 m, from Vicenza, the road 
 reaches 
 
 Marostica, whose battlements, crown- 
 ing the rock behind it, are seen at a 
 distance of several miles. The little 
 town stands on level ground at the base 
 of a steep rocky hill ; and the high walls, 
 which are said to date from the rule of 
 the Scaligers, are carried up the steep 
 slope to the summit of the hill, so as to 
 enclose its southern face along with the 
 town. The effect is extremely pic- 
 turesque. 
 
 From Marostica to Bassano the road 
 is carried along the skirts of a range of
 
 438 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 59. VALLEY OF THE BRENTA. 
 
 tertiary hills, detached from the main 
 muss of moimtain which rises into the 
 plateau of the Sette Comuni. Volcanic 
 rocks protrude in many places and 
 Lasaltic columns were formerly found 
 near Marostica, but the spot is now con- 
 cealed by rubbish. About 4 m. from 
 Marostica the road enters Angarano — 
 the suburb of Bassano lying on the W. 
 side of the Brenta. See § 59, Ete. A. 
 
 SECTION 59. 
 
 VALLEY OF THE BRENTA. 
 
 The absence of apparent regularity in 
 the disposition of the mountain masses 
 tliroughout South Tyrol makes it a some- 
 what arbitrary matter to divide this 
 region into districts. In default of other 
 criterion, the drainage of the country 
 affords a guide to what is. to some ex- 
 tent, a natural division of the surface. 
 Valleys whose torrents run together in 
 a common channel are almost always 
 more closely connected together than 
 those separated even by comparatively 
 low ridges. Although one of the chief 
 valleys described in the present section 
 ofiers Cat this time) an exception to that 
 
 rule, it has yet seemed most convenient 
 to include within the same district all 
 the mountain region whose drainage is 
 united in the Brenta. 
 
 The main branch of that river origi- 
 nates in two lakes a few miles E. of 
 Trent. For a distance of about 26 m. 
 it flows through Val Sugana, a broad 
 fertile valley, enclosed on the S. side 
 by the range of the Cima delle Dodici, 
 forming the N. boundary of the Sette 
 Comuni, while on theN. side it receives 
 several considerable torrents issuing 
 from as many tributary valleys. After 
 describing a considerable curve, convex 
 to the N., the Brenta passes the Italian 
 frontier at a point nearly due E. of its 
 source. Henceforth its course, for nearly 
 20 m., is through a narrow defile, cleft 
 through a once continuotis range of 
 limestone mountains. From the Italian 
 frontier to the neighbourhood of Bas- 
 sano, where the river finally issues from 
 the mountains, its sinuous channel keeps 
 a general direction to S. About 4 m. S. 
 of the frontier the Brenta is united with 
 the Cismone, a tributary which often 
 carries down more water than the main 
 stream. The Cismone rises in the 
 beautiful valley of Primiero, and drains 
 a great portion of the gi-and group of 
 dolomite peaks that enclose it on the 
 N. and E. sides. At the point where it 
 reaches the Italian frontier it receives 
 the Vanoi, another considerable torrent, 
 flowing from the Canal di S. Bovo, whose 
 waters are fed by the snow-fields of the 
 Cima d' Asta, and the porphyritic range 
 that divide this district from the Val di 
 Fiemme. It appears convenient to in- 
 clude in this district the town of Feltre, 
 with the fine group of rugged peaks, 
 collectively known as Le Vette, rising 
 to the N., as well as the lower mass to 
 the 8W., lying between the Brenta and 
 the Piave, and culminating in the Monte 
 Gi-appa. The valley of the Cordevole 
 forms the eastern boundary of this dis- 
 trict, but the description of that singular 
 and beautiful valley may more con- 
 veniently be reserved for § 61. 
 
 Although calcareous rocks of Jurassic 
 and cretaceous age prevail in this dis-
 
 ROUTE A. — TRENT TO BASSANO. 
 
 439 
 
 trict, there has been extensive intrusion 
 of porphyritic rock, especially on its N. 
 border. Nearly isolated from the ad- 
 joining ridges, the granitic mass of the 
 Cima d' Asta (9,193') rears its rugged 
 summit between the head of the Vauoi 
 glen and some of the tributary glens of 
 Val Sugana. Popular prejudice through- 
 out this district assigns the first rank in 
 height to the Cima d' Asta. How this 
 can have existed among people able to 
 see that mountain and the Primiero 
 peaks at the same moment, it is hard to 
 imagine. Several of the latter are 
 higher by fully 1,400 ft., and all con- 
 siderably overtop it. 
 
 The scenery of this district is almost 
 everywhere beautiful, and in many 
 places rises to grandeur. Primiero. 
 with its adjacent glens, can be reckoned 
 inferior to none of the adjoining valleys 
 for the weird beauty of its dolomite 
 peaks. The village of Primiero will, 
 when better known, be the most at- 
 tractive spot for travellers in this dis- 
 trict ; unless the accommodation at San 
 3Iartino di Castrozza be improved, when 
 that place would offer the inducements 
 of scenery even grander than that of | 
 Primiero, and considerably greater ele- | 
 vation. Excellent quarters are found at j 
 Levico, but it is too hot for most Eng- ! 
 lish travellers. The good inn at Caoria 
 offers a convenient halting-place for a 
 geologist wishing to study the granitic 
 region of the Cima d' Asta. 
 
 Route A. 
 
 TEEXT TO BASSANO, BY VAX SUGAKA, 
 
 Pergine 
 
 Levico , . 
 
 Borgo di Val Sugana 
 
 Primolano . . 
 
 Carpend 
 
 Posts 
 
 1 
 
 ]n 
 
 If 
 
 :r 
 
 Eng. miles 
 
 n 
 
 61 55i 
 
 Post-road, traversed by several public con- 
 veyances. 
 
 It is somewhat remarkable that the 
 road from Trent to Bassano, leading 
 directly to Padua and Venice, should 
 have been so rarely selected by tourists, 
 even before the opening of the railway 
 from Trent to Verona. The haste which 
 generally characterises the British tra- 
 veller now naturally inclines him to 
 prefer the rte. by Verona, since it offers 
 him an economy of 4 or 5 hrs. Yet it 
 is undoubted that the rte. here described 
 is one of the most interesting and beau- 
 tiful that can be chosen by a traveller 
 entering Italy from the north. Several 
 public conveyances ply in summer be- 
 tween Trent and Val Sugana. One of 
 these, which goes to Borgo, corresponds 
 with another vehicle between Trent and 
 Primolano, and by a second change of 
 carriage the traveller may continue his 
 rte. to Bassano, but not without con- 
 siderable delay. This inconvenient ar- 
 rangement has existed since the last 
 political changes, which have divided 
 this and other neighbouring valleys 
 between two rival nations. There is, 
 however, a direct conveyance both ways, 
 travelling slowly, but without change of 
 carriage. In 1867, it left Trent at 
 2*30 P.M., and reached Bassano rather 
 before 3 a.m. Travelling the opposite 
 way, travellers left Bassano at 9 p.m. 
 and reached Trent about 8-30 a.m. 
 
 For some years the project of a rail- 
 way from Trent direct to Venice by this 
 route has been much discussed. The 
 difficulties are not very serious, and tha
 
 440 
 
 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. 
 
 59. VALLEY OF THE BRENTA. 
 
 new line would shorten the way from 
 Northern Europe to all the Italian 
 ports on the Adriatic by nearly 50 m. ; 
 hut the present time is unfavourable to 
 enterprises of this nature. 
 
 The road begins to ascend immedi- 
 ately on leaving Trent by its eastern 
 gate, and very soon enters the gorge of 
 the F(er.sw?a, which leads to the low pass 
 dividing the waters of the Brenta from 
 those of the Adige. The old road was 
 inconvenient, and scarcely safe for 
 heavy carriages ; but as this formed 
 part of the network of military roads 
 by which Austria sought to ensure her 
 hold on Veuetia, an excellent new road 
 was completed some years ago. Of 
 convenient width, and nowhere steep, it 
 is carried through the narrow part of 
 the gorge on a shelf obtained by blast- 
 ing beneath overhanging rocks. 
 
 About 4 ra. from Trent the valley of 
 the Fersina opens out into a charming 
 circular basin, enclosed by mountains 
 of moderate height. Numerous villages 
 with tall campaniles lie on the slopes, 
 which bear evidence of rich cultivation ; 
 and the appearance of the population 
 and of their dwellings speaks of general 
 industry and consequent well-beino;. 
 
 [The Silla torrent, which flows south- 
 ward out of the narrow glen, called Val 
 di Pine, passed on the 1. hand, offers a 
 short way to the Val Cembra (§ 60, 
 Ete. B), which may be reached from 
 hence in 4 hrs. After passing BaseJga 
 (3,157') the track lies by the little lakes 
 of Seraja and Piazze, N. of which is the 
 lonely Osteria di Varda. One path 
 turning sharply to the 1. through an 
 opening in the porphyritic mountains, 
 leads in f hr. from Piazze to Spiazzo on 
 the Avisio, while another track goes 
 SE. over the ridge dividing Pine from 
 Palu.] 
 
 About 1^ m. beyond the bridge over 
 the Silla the road crosses the Fersina 
 for the last time. The mountain glen 
 from which it flows is called Val Ca- 
 nezza, or Val di Palu, and by that way 
 a path runs to cross the Kofeljoch, divid- 
 ing this from Valdi Calamen to (Ete.I). 
 At the foot of a rock of mica schist 
 
 ! crowned by a picturesque ancient castle, 
 
 j stands the thriving town of 
 
 [ Fergme{lmiii : Al Cavaletto, and several 
 
 i other clean-looking houses), 1,583 ft. 
 
 ! above the sea. Just before the conclu- 
 sion of the armistice between Italy and 
 Austria, in 1866, the corps of General 
 Medici, after having forced the Austrian 
 
 I positions at Primolano and Levico, had 
 advanced to this place, and was about 
 to attack Trent. The road from hence 
 
 , to Levico ascends gently to cross a de- 
 pression in the rocky ridge that extends 
 
 1 about 4 m. SSE. from Pergine and 
 divides the Lake of Levico from that of 
 Caldonazzo. After descending from the 
 pass the high-road passes close to the 
 small Lake of Levico (1,634'), amidst 
 very agreeable scenery, but the tra- 
 veller who does not object to a walk of 
 2 hrs. has a choice between two other 
 more attractive routes. That most fre- 
 quently taken by travellers goes due S. 
 from Pergine along the "W. shore of the 
 larger Lake of Caldonazzo (1,411'), the 
 principal source of the Brenta. This 
 lies considerably lower than the Fersina 
 near Pergine, and also than the Lake 
 of Levico, and the more obvious course 
 for the high-road would have been along 
 either shore ; but the actual line was 
 doubtless preferred on account of the 
 marshy nature of the soil, of late years 
 corrected by draining. There is a plea- 
 sant track, keeping near the lake shore, 
 to Calcera7iica, said to possess the most 
 ancient chxvrch in the valley. A Roman 
 inscription proves the former existence 
 here of a temple to Diana. If bound 
 for Levico, the traveller should keep 
 along the southern shore ; if he ascend 
 to Caldonazzo (Rte. B), he wiU rejoin 
 the high-road a little below Levico. 
 There is another way by the W. side 
 of the lake, somewhat longer, but com- 
 manding wider views of the surround- 
 ing scenery. This ascends somewhat 
 from Pergine to Svsa (1,744'), and 
 thence keeps alongs the ridge, well 
 planted with chestnut-trees, about 700 
 ft. above the level of the 1. To his rt. 
 the traveller has the pj^ramidal summit 
 called Terrarossa (5,668'), which com-
 
 ROUTE A. VAL SUGANA. 
 
 441 
 
 mands a fine view, Lut not equal to that 
 from the Monte Scanupia (Kte. B). 
 
 On the whole, the most interesting 
 •way from Pergine to Levico is that by 
 the £. shore of the L. of Caldouazzo. 
 The lover of antiquities should visit the 
 church of San Cristoforo, standing on 
 a rock at the X. end of the lake, built, 
 it would appear, on the foundations of a 
 Koman temple dedicated to Keptune 
 and Diana. Thence the track ascends, 
 and keeps along the W. slope of the 
 ridge already mentioned, that di\'ides 
 the Lake of Levico from that of Cal- 
 donazzo. The views of the latter fine 
 sheet of water, backed by the Terrarossa, 
 and the still bolder crags of Monte 
 Scanupia, are charming. The lake 
 contains much fish, and was formerly 
 the haunt of wild swans ; but the local 
 sportsmen have extirpated the species. 
 After passing the villaojes of Ischia 
 and Tenna (1,861'), the traveller should 
 not fail to follow the summit of the 
 ridge, whence he will look down alter- 
 nately upon the lakes that lie on either 
 hand. At its southern end are seen 
 the ruins of the castle oi Brenta, which 
 was destroyed first by Eccelino da Eo- 
 mano, and again, after being rebuilt, 
 in some of the local wars constantly 
 waged by the petty n.;lers of the ad- 
 joining valleys. The Eoman road to 
 Trent was carried along this ridge, and 
 was defended by forts that stood on 
 the sites of the Castles of Pergine and 
 Brenta. 
 
 All the roads and paths here men- 
 tioned meet at the small town of Levico 
 (1,657'). recently become a place of 
 some resort on account of its mineral 
 waters. There is an untidy inn, where 
 the omnibuses from Trent put up ; but 
 immediately outside the town, on the 
 W. side, is a large and well-built esta- 
 blishment, much frequented in summer 
 by visitors who drink the acidulous 
 waters, containing sulphates of iron, 
 lime, and magnesia, with a minute 
 portion of arsenic, or take baths whose 
 water, derived from a different source, 
 contains sulphate of copper in addition 
 to the other substances above mentioned. 
 
 The waters are said to have very power- 
 ful tonic effects, but should not be taken 
 without competent medical advice. 
 
 When the house is not full, no dif- 
 ficiilty is made in accommodating tra- 
 vellers who intend to make but a short 
 stay. A moderate charge, regulated by 
 printed tariff, is made for rooms ; and 
 meals, supplied by a Trattore in the 
 establishment, are paid for separately. 
 Allowing for defects of attendance when 
 the house is full, the accommodation 
 is good — certainly superior to that at 
 Eecoaro. The waters issue from the 
 slope of Monte Selva (4,463'), which 
 rises immediately on the N. side of 
 Levico. In the writer's opinion, the 
 position of Levico is too hot to be agree- 
 able in July and August; but in June 
 and September, when there is less con- 
 course of visitors, it offers agreeable 
 and convenient head-quarters for many 
 excursions, and especially for a geologist. 
 Within a moderate walk he may examine 
 the granite of the Cima d' Asta group 
 (see Introduction, Art. G-eology), the 
 porph}-ry of the valleys of Palu and 
 Pine, the mica slate which is the pre- 
 vailing rock close at hand, and the 
 series of stratified rocks extending 
 from the Trias to the Eocene, many of 
 them well marked by characteristic 
 fossils. The disturbances to which the 
 stratified rocks have been subjected 
 at many successive epochs, render the 
 connexion of the strata obsciu-e at many 
 points, and require for their elucidation 
 the eye of an experienced geologist. 
 
 After descending a gentle slope im- 
 mediately outside Levico, the road is 
 carried along the broad level floor of 
 the main valley. It passes a hamlet 
 called Masi di Novaledo (l,3oo'), but 
 leaves on the 1. the large village of 
 Boncegno {1,12^), lying on the lower 
 slope of a mountain, chiefly composed of 
 Cima d' Asta granite. 
 
 [A cattle-track leads from Eoncegno 
 to the valley of Palu. Eemains of an- 
 cient paA'ement are supposed to prove 
 its Eoman origin. From the summit of 
 Monte Fravort, lying to the rt. of the 
 track, a fine view is gained, including
 
 442 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 59. VALLEY OF THE BRENTA. 
 
 the whole of Val Sugana. Fravort is 
 also easily accessible from Levico.] 
 
 The mountain population above Ron- 
 cegno are of German origin, and speak, 
 or rather did until late years speak, a 
 dialect very similar to that of the Sette 
 Coinuui. 
 
 The upper part of Val Sugana de- 
 serves the notice of those geologists who 
 refer the present form of the surface 
 exclusively to meteorological agencies. 
 In the first place the breadth of the 
 valley is out of all proportion to the 
 trifling streams which flow — or can at 
 any time have flowed — through it. But 
 especial attention should be given to the 
 ridge (formed by the mountains Roc- 
 chetta and Armentara) which runs 
 parallel to the Brenta in the middle of 
 the main valley, although appearing 
 from the road to enclose it on the S. 
 side. The minor valley, lying between 
 this and the main range of the Sette 
 Comuni, is called Val di Sella. Its 
 drainage flows mainly to NE., through 
 the Moggio torrent, to join the Brenta 
 just below Borgo ; but the Moggio is 
 separated only by a low, ill-defined 
 ridge from the opening at the W. end 
 of the valley, towards Levico. Hence 
 this way may be easily taken by a pedes- 
 trian going from the latter place to 
 Borgo, and as the level is considerably 
 higher than that of the main valley, the 
 temperature is sensibly cooler. There 
 is a mineral spring in Val di Sella, 
 2,723 ft. above the sea, about 2 hrs. 
 from Borgo, accessible for light car- 
 riages, with an inn near at hand, and 
 several houses that are let in summer to 
 visitors seeking fresh air. It is a con- 
 venient centre for some excursions, in- 
 cluding the ascent of the Cima delle 
 Dodici, and a visit to the Grotto of 
 Costalta (§ 58, Rte. K). 
 
 Val Sugana abounds in ruined castles, 
 each of which has been a witness to the 
 centuries of border warfare, and ruth- 
 less violence between neighbom-s, that 
 make up the mediaeval history of the 
 north-eastern frontier of Italy. Some i 
 of the most picturesque of these ancient ] 
 buildings are seen as the traveller ap- i 
 
 proaches Borgo. Immediately above the 
 town, on the NE. side, is Telvana, once 
 a stronghold of the powerful Counts of 
 Caldonazzo, still partially inhabited. It 
 is said to contain some curious frescoes. 
 Looking down on Telvana from a com- 
 manding eminence are the more pic- 
 turesque ruins of the castle of San 
 Pietro, taken by the Vicentines in the 
 14th century. The view from it is ad- 
 mirable. There is a striking contrast 
 between these remains of feudal power 
 and the aspect of the flourishing town of 
 
 Borgo di Val Sugana (Inns : Aquila ; 
 Post ; both very fair, better than they 
 seem). Although more than half the 
 town was destroyed by fire a few years 
 ago, the damage has been effectually 
 repaired, and the new buildings give it 
 a cheerful aspect. In the centre of a 
 broad fertile valley, producing much 
 wine, silk, fruit, wheat, and maize, and 
 inhabited by an industrious population, 
 this place shows many marks of pros- 
 perity. Much tolerably good wine is 
 sent hence by mountain tracks to the 
 higher valleys of S. Tyrol, and a good 
 deal is exported across the Italian fron- 
 tier. There are several mills for wind- 
 ing and spinning silk. Although 1,230 
 ft. above the sea, the climate is very 
 warm in summer, and the character of 
 the place completely Italian. 
 
 At the close of the campaign of 1866, 
 General Medici — having on the previous 
 day forced the seemingly impregnable 
 position of the Austrians at Primolano — 
 took Borgo after a sharp, but not very 
 obstinate encounter with the enemy. 
 Evening closed on this success of the 
 Italians ; but, without giving his troops 
 time to rest, he pushed them on to Le- 
 vico, and before midnight was master of 
 that important military position, which 
 was taken without firing a shot by a 
 decisive bayonet charge. The merits of 
 the Italian commander, and of his troops, 
 in the operations which, two days later, 
 were interrupted by the armistice, do 
 not seem to have been adequately re- 
 cognised. 
 
 Following the main road eastwards 
 from Borgo, the traveller crosses in sue-
 
 ROUTE A. — PRIMOLANO. 
 
 443 
 
 cession three torrents that descend to \ 
 join the Brenta from as many converging ! 
 valleys. The first of these is the Z'ggio, i 
 flowing from Val Zeggio. This torrent 
 originates on the NE. side of Monte } 
 !Fravort, and flows eastward, till after , 
 passing round the rock on which stands ^ 
 the castle of S. Pietro, it turns south- ' 
 ward to join the Brenta. The principal 
 village is Torcegno (2,563'). Those of | 
 Telvc di sopra (2,084') and Telvc di sotto 
 (1,771') stand on the slope close to the 
 opening of the glen. \ 
 
 About 1 m. beyond the bridge over 
 the Zeggio, the road, after passing the 
 village of Castelnuovo, crosses the more 
 considerable torrent Maso, issuing from 
 the Val Calamento (Ete. I), and very 
 soon after the CAz^^^wa, descending from 
 Strigno (Ete. G). The new road which 
 here joins our route leads to Strigno and 
 Tesin (Ete. F). About 200 yards beyond 
 the junction is a fair country inn, at a 
 spot called Le Barricate, convenient for 
 a pedestrian awaiting the passage of 
 some vehicle to take him up or down 
 the main valley. 
 
 On an eminence above the Barricate 
 stands the ancient castle of Ivano, which 
 gave its name in the 12th century to a 
 powerful family long since extinct. It 
 is now one of the numerous Tyrolese 
 castles belonging to Count Wolkenstein, 
 who sometimes inhabits it in summer. 
 The scenerj' now begins to assume a 
 sterner and grander character as the 
 mountains on either side approach the 
 naiTOwed bed of the Brenta. The Cima 
 Laste, rising precipitously above Ospe- 
 daletto, is a particularly striking object. 
 The soil being reduced to mere gravel, 
 or piles of debris, lying at the base of 
 the rocks, cultivation almost completely 
 disappears before the traveller reaches 
 Grigno (857'), the last Tyrolese -villnge, 
 about 11m. from Borgo, a poor place 
 standing close to the opening of a narrow 
 gorge through which the Grigno torrent 
 descends due southward from the Cima 
 d' Asta through the valley of Tesin. A 
 steep mule-track ascends through the 
 gorge (Ete. G). 
 
 At Grigno the Brenta fairly enters the 
 
 great cleft in which it remains impri- 
 soned for a space of 20 m., flowing SSE. 
 as far as the junction of the Cismon, 
 thence SSW. to Valstagna, and again 
 SSE. to Bassano. For some miles, how- 
 ever, the scenery is of mediocre interest. 
 A hot sun blazes down into an arid 
 trench, where, except the high-road, there 
 is little trace of liuman presence. At 
 Le Tezze, a small hamlet, the Austrian 
 custom-house is passed, and about | m. 
 farther the driver will point out a stone 
 by the roadside which marks the ancient 
 limit of the territory of the Venetian 
 republic, now become the frontier ot 
 Italy. Immediately beyond it is the 
 Italian customs frontier station. Goods 
 are liable to further examination at the 
 ' customs-office in Primolano ; but little 
 trouble is usually given to travellers. 
 About H m. from the frontier is the 
 first Italian post-station. 
 j PW//<o/fl7zo (730'?— 701' Wolf). The 
 poor little village, crowded into a narrow 
 space between the impending rocks and 
 the river, consists almost entirely of 
 rough inns and trattorias. At the Post 
 the traveller will find much civility and 
 poor fare. The position of this village 
 is remarkable. The Brenta runs south- 
 ward through the narrowest part of the 
 great gorge leading to Bassano, while 
 on the E. side of the village a broad 
 opening is seen in the mountain range, 
 at a height of about 400 ft. above the 
 river. This affords a passage for the 
 ! road to Feltre, which ascends the short 
 ^ but steep slope in several long zigzags. 
 j The traveller who follows that road 
 (Ete. D) will perceive that the depres- 
 ! sion E. of Primolano is orographically 
 j the western continuation of the valley 
 ; of the Piave, though not traversed by 
 ; any considerable stream. 
 I On the W. side of Primolano, beyond 
 the Brenta, a rough track ascends to 
 I Enego, one of the villages of the Sette 
 Comuni. 
 
 The scenery of the defile through 
 
 which the Brenta flows for lorn, below 
 
 Primolano, will be judged differently, 
 
 acconling to the disposition of different 
 
 i travellers ; but it is undoubtedly amongst
 
 444 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 59. VALLEY OF THE BRENTA. 
 
 thp most singular and striking of the 
 kind in Europe. It may be said to want 
 variety, for the rocks on either side, 
 rising from 3,000 to 3,500 ft. above the 
 stream, nowhere admit a view of more 
 distant summits, and the meagre soil 
 does not produce luxuriant vegetation ; 
 but, such as it is, it would be hard to 
 cite another instance of a defile so long, 
 so rugged, and seemingly so hopeless. 
 Cattle-tracks lead up to the high plateau 
 of the Collalti at Cismone and Solagna, 
 but, for a distance of 11 m. between 
 those places, the rocks are accessible in 
 but three or four places to a goat, or a 
 practised mountaineer. On the opposite 
 side of the river the Sette Comuni can 
 be reached only by the precarious path 
 up the bed of the torrent of Val Stagna, 
 mentioned in § 58, Rte. I. 
 
 About a mile below Primolano the 
 traveller should not fail to observe in 
 the face of the vertical rock on his 1., at 
 a height of about 80 ft. from the ground, 
 the entrance to a large cavern. Smoke- 
 stains on the rocks, and the remains of 
 masonry, at once show that it has served 
 for human habitation ; but he will be 
 surprised to find that this is the famous 
 rock fortress of Covolo (from the Grer- 
 nian Kofel), which at times has sheltered I 
 a garrison of 500 men. It appears to 
 have been used as a stronghold at a very 
 early period, probably before the descent 
 of the Longobards into Italy. An in- 
 ternal spring of fresh water, and secure 
 magazines for stores, seemed to make it 
 impregnable, as access was obtained 
 only by means of a rope let down from 
 the mouth of the cavern. Yet it has 
 been repeatedly taken in time of war. 
 After the valley had passed into the 
 hands of the Venetians, the right of 
 garrisoning the cavern was still conceded 
 to the Emperor of G-ermany, and was 
 held by the Austrians until 1798, when 
 the stronghold was for the last time 
 taken by the French under Augereau. 
 
 About 1 m. farther the road reaches 
 the junction with the Brenta of its most 
 considerable affluent — the Cismon — 
 which issues from a gorge still more con- 
 tracted than that of the Brenta. Vast 
 
 quantities of timber are annually sent 
 this way from the valleys of Primiero 
 and San Bovo, and here formed into rafts 
 that are floated down to Bassano, and 
 thence to Venice. About ^ ra. S. of the 
 junction is the village of Cismone (590'), 
 standing a little to the 1. of the road. 
 The pedestrian, already acquainted with 
 the scenery of the main valley, may en- 
 joy a mountain walk with little loss of 
 time, by following the cattle-track that 
 mounts from Cismone to the plateau 
 above the E. side of the valley, and 
 taking a course nearly due S., till he 
 descends to Pove, about 2^ m. N. of 
 Bassano ; or, if he start early enough, 
 he may take the ascent of the Grappa 
 (Ete. C) in his day's walk. The plateau 
 over which his route lies is called the 
 Collalti, and is similar in character to 
 the Sette Comuni, described in the last 
 §, but far less extensive. It further 
 differs in having no permanent popula- 
 tion ; as the herdsmen who resort 
 thither in summer descend in winter to 
 the villages of the main valley. 
 
 About Cismone the traveller will ob- 
 serve the first patches of tobacco-ground. 
 The privilege of cultivating this plant, 
 subject to rigid excise regulations, was 
 first granted to the inhabitants by the 
 Venetian republic, and has been con- 
 tinued under successive governments. 
 Throughout the distance of 8 m. between 
 Cismone and Carpene there is scarcely 
 a house or trace of cultivation to be seen. 
 The floor of the valley is abandoned to 
 the Brenta, which though low in summer 
 pours down a vast mass of water in the 
 full season, v.-hile on either side the 
 rocks rise in mural precipices of vast 
 height. The finest scenery is near Val 
 Stagna, ■where the vallev bends from 
 SSW. to SSE. Though sfill very steep, 
 the mountains here present a more 
 broken outline. Projecting masses are 
 crowned by narrow terraces, above 
 which other towers and ramparts of 
 rock are seen to rise; while here and 
 there some tree finds space to fijx its 
 roots. In approaching Carpene and Val 
 Stagna the traveller will be puzzled to 
 account for the appearance of numerous
 
 ROUTE A. BASSANO. 
 
 445 
 
 lines of masonry, rising in places to a 
 height of many hundred ft. above the 
 stream, sometimes appearing to adhere 
 to the face of the precipices, sometimes 
 earned along slopes of the steepest 
 debris. These give evidence of the in- 
 dustry and enterprise of the inhabitants. 
 Each of these constructions has been 
 raised in order to prociire a plot of 
 ground, often measuinug but a few square 
 yards, whereon to grow tobacco. The 
 •walls of rough masoniy enclose narrow 
 terraces, whither earth is borne on the 
 backs of men and women. To each 
 plot, often accessible only by a ladder, 
 the cultivator resorts frequently, and in 
 dry weather carries up buckets where- 
 ■o'ith to water each individual plant. In 
 favourable seasons the leaves grow to a 
 prodigious size. 
 
 Yal Stagna (522') is a considerable 
 village, the first that has been seen on 
 the rt. bank of the Brenta, and opposite 
 to it, connected by a handsome stone 
 bridge, is Carpene, where the omnibuses 
 usually halt for a few minutes. Here 
 the traveller may cross to the rt. bank i 
 of the river, if he wish to visit on his 
 way the Grotto of Oliero. The road to 
 Bassano along that bank, though very 
 narrow, between Val Stagna and Oliero. 
 is easily passable for light carriages. 
 
 The road from Carpene is somewhat 
 hilly for 2 or 3 miles, as it crosses 
 the bases of several buttresses that de- 
 scend from the Collalti to the Brenta. 
 After passing several smaller places, 
 the road traverses Solagiia, a large and 
 thriving village that stretches someway 
 along the bank of the Brenta. Here the I 
 defile at length begins to open out, and ! 
 it is evident that we are approaching the j 
 point where the moimtains finally sub- i 
 side into a plain. Passing under a , 
 steep rock the road leaves the banks of j 
 the Brenta, and ascends a little to gain j 
 the level ground, some 80 ft. above ihe | 
 bed of the river. For nearly 2 m. the , 
 road is confined between stone walls, en- : 
 closing olive gardens and vineyards, I 
 when a sudden turn presents to the eye ; 
 an extremely picturesque view of Bas- j 
 Banc. The city is still guarded on the N. i 
 
 side by the ancient ivy-grown wall which 
 in winter screens it from the cold winds. 
 At intervals rise the towers that recall 
 the rule of Eccelino da Eomano, and at 
 the foot of the wall the ground slopes 
 steeply towards a flat alluvial basin of 
 richly cultivated ground. The road 
 passes round the eastern verge of tiiis 
 basin, and finally enters 
 
 Bassano (Inns : Mondo ; Sant Anto- 
 nio, both very fair and better than they 
 seem). Though ill-built, and not boast- 
 ing a sing'e handsome street, the interior 
 of the town is quaint and picturesque ; 
 while the view from the promenade 
 along the city wall, and the adjoining 
 Caife dei Fossi, exactly facing the open- 
 ing of the defile of the Brenta, should 
 on no account be omitted. It may be 
 remarked here that the Venetians, carry- 
 ing into their provinces of terra firma 
 the peculiar phraseology of their city, 
 called the principal valleys of the Vene- 
 tian Alps canals! Thus the valley of 
 the Brenta, as far as the Venetian 
 frontier, is commonly known as Canal di 
 Brenta, and the same nomenclature pre- 
 vails through the greater part of Eriuli. 
 
 Bassano boasts of a Museum more 
 rich and complete than that of many 
 more important cities, which it owes to 
 the liberality of private donors. The 
 Picture Gallery includes many works of 
 the Da Ponte family, natives of the 
 town from which they took their com- 
 mon designation, and of others of the 
 Venetian school. The library contains 
 nearly 60,000 volumes. The collection 
 of prints is especially rich, containing 
 many valuable and rare engravings. A 
 complete set of casts of the works of 
 Canova, along with the drawings, works 
 on art, and MSS. of that celebrated 
 sculptor, was presented by his brother 
 the late Bishop of Mindo. A very 
 valuable collection of minerals and fos- 
 sils was given to the Institution by the 
 late Cav. Parolini. In addition to the 
 specimens collected by the founder in 
 Italy, Greece, and Asia Minor, or pur- 
 chased in various parts of Europe, it 
 includes a large series of rocks collected 
 by G. B. Brocchi, also a native of Bas-
 
 4^16 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 59. VALLEY OF THE BRENTA. 
 
 eano, and the series of Subapennine 
 fossils on which was founded the clas- 
 eical work of the same eminent geolo- 
 gist. 
 
 The botanist will be interested in 
 examining the Herbarium of Parolini, 
 and another, not in such good condition, 
 but very rich in the plants of this part 
 of the Alps, formed by Gr. Montini, a 
 good local botanist. 
 
 The castle built by Eccelino da Ro- 
 mano, now partly in ruins and partly 
 inhabited by the arciprete, or rector, 
 stands by the NW. gate of the town, 
 and is a very picturesque object. 
 
 The covered wooden bridge connect- 
 ing Bassano with the suburb of Anga- 
 rano on the W. bank of the Brenta is 
 deservedly a favourite object with ar- 
 tists, who seldom fail to introduce it 
 into views of the town. A similar 
 structure built by Palladio was carried 
 away in the last century by a flood of 
 the Brenta, and the next bridge on the 
 same site was blown up by the French. 
 The readers of military history are fa- 
 miliar with the masterly but audacious 
 operations by which the first Napoleon 
 in 1796 here completed the destruction 
 of Wurmser's army, already defeated at 
 Lonato and Castiglione, and forced that 
 veteran general to seek shelter for the 
 remains of his force within the walls of 
 Mantua. Few visitors to Bassano omit 
 to visit the garden formed by the late 
 Cav. Parolini. The entrance is in the 
 suburb called Borgo Leon, and admission 
 is readily given on application to the 
 gardener. It includes a very numerous 
 collection of herbaceous plants, partly 
 arranged as a botanical garden, but 
 most nsitors are more attracted by the 
 grounds, very well laid out, and "com- 
 manding picturesque views of the ancient 
 walls, and the range of the Collalti. 
 The collection of conifer <s includes many 
 fine specimens of trees that do not 
 flourish in Britain, and amongst others 
 the botanists will observe with interest 
 a knoll planted with Pinus parol iniana, 
 a curious tree, with contorted trunk, dis- 
 covered by the late owner of the garden 
 on the Trojan Mt. Ida. 
 
 The principal piazza of Bassano is 
 470 ft. above the sea, while the mean 
 i height of the Brenta at the bridge is 
 but 397 feet. 
 
 Many interesting excursions may be 
 made from Bassano. Of these the more 
 considerable — such as that to the Sette 
 Comuni, to Possagno, and the ascent of 
 the Grappa — are noticed elsewhere. 
 One, which should on no account be 
 omitted, is that to the Grotto of Oliero, 
 on the rt. bank of the Brenta, about 7 m. 
 from Bassano. A few hundred yards 
 from the village of Oliero is a recess in 
 the mountain, enclosed by precipitous 
 rocks, where copious streams of beauti- 
 fully clear water issue from two caverns. 
 It appears certain that by far the largest 
 portion of the drainage of the Sette 
 Comuni finds ils way to this outlet. No 
 other stream of any importance flows 
 from the extensive plateau, and the 
 volume of water here issuing, having 
 ! been protected from evaporation, is much 
 ; greater than it would have been if it 
 i had flowed above ground. From a re- 
 I mote period the waters of the Oliero 
 : were used to work several paper-mills. 
 ' One of these, till very lately belonging 
 to the Eemondini family, supplied paper 
 , to the printing-office which for fully 80 
 years made the name of that Bassanes'^ 
 i family familiar to the literary world, 
 I while the prints issuing from the same 
 ; establishment were spread throughout 
 I Europe, and beyond its bounds. No 
 I serious attempt seems to have been 
 ' made to explore the grottoes until their 
 : late proprietor, Cav. Parolini, pene- 
 j trated in 1832 into the outer one. He 
 I also planted the environs with much 
 taste, made winding walks up the steep 
 side of the mountain above the grotto, 
 and rendered the spot more accessible 
 and more attractive. After entering the 
 cavern on flags laid in the bed of the 
 stream, visitors enter a small boat whii^h 
 can carr}' 5 or 6 persons, and passing 
 over a small subterranean lake of con- 
 siderable depth, land at the farther end. 
 The guides climb up with torches, and 
 illuminate the stalactites that hang from 
 the roof. On the whole, though not of
 
 ROUTE B. — ROVEREDO TO LEVICO. 
 
 447 
 
 large dimensions, this is one of the most 
 interesting caverns known to the writer. 
 It does not appear possible to penetrate 
 into the farther cavern, but it is well 
 worth while to approach close to the 
 entrance by a path along the S. side of 
 the stream. 
 
 An excursion of especial interest to the 
 botanist and the geologist may be made 
 from Bassano to the hills of San Mi- 
 chele, lying within a short distance of 
 Angarano, on the W. side of the Brenta,. 
 They are composed of tertiary strata, 
 which have undergone considerable dis- 
 turbance, in part owing to the intrusion 
 of igneous rocks since their deposition. 
 
 The neighbourhood of Bassano pos- 
 sesses an extremely rich flora, and the 
 botanist may here reap an ample har- 
 vest. The hills of Angarano, the 
 neighbourhood of Oliero, the Collalti, 
 but most of all, the rocks above the 
 1. bank of the Brenta between Cismone 
 and Solagna, produce many rare species, 
 a few of which are noted in the follow- 
 ing list : — Ayiemone trifolia, Isopyriim 
 tkalictroides, Eranthis hyemalis, Epi- 
 medium alpinum, Mcehringia PoncB, 
 C(rastium sylvatmim, Linum narhon- 
 ense, Genista sericea, G. radiata, Medi- 
 cago carsciensis, Saxifraga petraa, 
 Eryngium aynethystimim, Seseli glau- 
 cum, Feridago galhanifera, Carpcsium 
 ccrnuum, Centaurea alpina, C.rupestris, 
 Leontodon crispus, L. incamis, Chon- 
 drilla prenavthoides, Phyteuma conio- 
 sum, Campamda carnica, C. Alpini, C. 
 sibirica, Lithospemum graminifolium, 
 Lamium orvala, Euphorbia camiolica, 
 Limodorum ahortivum, Iris graminea, 
 Veratnim nigrum, Care^ Mickelii, Hie- 
 rochloa anstralis, Festuca spectabilis. 
 
 RonTE B. 
 
 EOTEREDO TO LEVICO. 
 
 The traveller approaching Val Su- 
 gana from the Lake of Garda, or from 
 Verona, wiU probably pass through 
 Koveredo, and will have a choice be- 
 tween two easy and agreeable routes to 
 Levico — one practicable in a light car- 
 riage, the other on foot or horseback. 
 If he should have no occasion to halt 
 at Koveredo, he should take his railway- 
 ticket to either of the stations men- 
 tioned below. 
 
 1. By Vigolo. Char-road — about 12 
 m. It will be prudent to order a car- 
 riage from Levico to meet the traveller 
 at the rly. station. From the Afatarr Ho 
 station, on the rly. between Eoveredo 
 and Verona, a char-road is carried due 
 E. through a deep depression between 
 the bold summit of 3Ionte Scanupia, so 
 conspicuous from Trent, and the sum- 
 mit called Terrarossa, which overlooks 
 the Lake of Caldonazzo. A very short 
 glen leads up to the summit of the 
 pass, very near which, but on the Val 
 Siigana side, is Vigolo (1,902'? but Mr. 
 Holzmann found 2,287')- 0" a neigh- 
 bouring height stands the castle of 
 Vigolo, an ancient stronghold, which 
 passed into the possession of the 
 Bishops of Trent, and afterwards into 
 private hands. This is a convenient 
 point for the ascent of Monte Scanupia 
 (7,027'), which oflFers the attractions of 
 a very fine view, with many rare plants. 
 The little valley through which the 
 road descends to Calccranica is called 
 Val Vattaro. For the way thence to 
 Levico, see Ete. A. 
 
 2. By Val Folgaria. Val Folgaria, a 
 favourite summer retreat of the people
 
 ! BA.SSAXO TO FEXTEE, BY POSSAGNO. 
 
 Possagno 
 
 Fener 
 
 Feltre 
 
 Italian 
 geog. miles 
 
 H 
 
 English 
 milea 
 
 448 S. TYROL AKD rPNETIAN ALPS. § 59. VALLEY OF THE BRENTA. 
 
 of Eoveredo, pours its torrent into the 
 
 Adige at Galliano (§ 57, Ete. A). From Eoute C 
 
 the rly. station, the traveller will be 
 directed to the track which mounts 
 steeply the narrow part of the rallev, 
 passing the ancient castle of Beseno, 
 and it is not till he has ascended to a 
 lieight of nearly 3,000 ft. above the 
 Adige that the valley widens into an 
 upland basin, with swelling downs of 
 meadow and Alpine pastures. There 
 are many scattered dwellings, chiefly 
 belonging to wealthy inhabitants of Eo- 
 veredo. The traveller may choose among 
 various pleasant paths, one of which 
 passes by La Villa di Folgaria (3,760'). 
 The ascent of Monte Scanupia may be 
 easily made from this side. A gentle 
 ascent leads to the summit of the pass 
 (4,476'? probably less) that separates 
 this from the head of the Valley of the 
 Astico. The watershed is ill defined, 
 and mere undulations of the ground, 
 rather than definite ridges, separate the 
 head of this valley from Val di Terra- 
 gnolo on the S., and Val Sugana to the 
 E. A track, passing San Selastiano, 
 leads the traveller to the head of Val 
 Cent a, a little glen through which a plea- 
 sant path descends to Caldonazzo less 
 than 2 m. from Levico. The distance 
 from Galliano to that place is about 
 20 m. 
 
 24| 28f 
 
 Although this road offers much agree- 
 able scenery, its attractions cannot be 
 compared with those of the defile of 
 the Brenta from Bassano to Primolano, 
 and the road from the latter village to 
 Feltre by Arsie. That is the course 
 taken by the slow country diligence or 
 omnibus that plies daily, leaving Bas- 
 sano at 4 A.M. ; and the road by Pos- 
 sagno is chiefly taken by those who are 
 drawn to that village by its association 
 with the name of Ganova. Most tra- 
 vellers will prefer to engage a carriage 
 from Possagno and back, and then pro- 
 ceed to Feltre by Primolano. 
 
 On the E. side of Bassano the outer 
 range of the Alps, including the Collalti, 
 and the more lofty mass of the Grappa, 
 subsides into the low country so ab- 
 ruptly that there is scarcely an undxila- 
 tion of the ground between the plain of 
 Venetia and the base of the steep con- 
 tinuous slopes that vary from 3,000 to 
 5,000 ft. in absolute height. Farther 
 E. the base of the range is, as usual in 
 mountain countries, defended by out- 
 works, formed by the tertiary hills of 
 Asolo, whose structure has been illus- 
 trated by Sir E. Murchison in the me- 
 moir here frequently referred to. Eather 
 more than 2 m. from Bassano a square 
 campanile, on a swelling knoll to the 
 rt., marks the church of Eornano, the 
 birthplace of the redoubted Eccelino. 
 On the 1. hand, opposite Eomano, is the 
 opening of a short glen of the wildest 
 and most rugged character, called Val 
 di Santa Fila (Felicita). About 2 m. 
 farther the road leaves to the 1. the vil- 
 lage of Borso (Ete. D), whence the 
 ascent of the Grappa is usually made. 
 Crossing some rather deep trenches 
 cut by the autumn and spring torrents,
 
 ROUTE C. BASSAKO TO l-ELTRE. 
 
 449 
 
 and passing the village of Crespano, the 
 road traverses a fine bridge whose cost 
 was defrayed by a legacy left by Canova, 
 and then ascends to a sort of low pass 
 between the tertiary hills of Asolo on 
 the rt, and the stern range of the Grappa 
 and Boccaor on the 1. Before long the 
 so-called Temple of Possagno comes 
 into view. It stands in a commanding 
 position on the N. side of the little Val. 
 (T Urgana, which extends eastward from 
 hence to the Piave, collecting into a 
 single bed a number of minor torrents. 
 Ca-nova's house, the principal building 
 in the village, now the property of a 
 lady, niece of the great sculptor, is 
 freely shown to strangers. It has been 
 in great part converted into a museum, 
 wherein, besides casts of most of his 
 works, there are several unfinished 
 statues, and a fine monument to the 
 daughter of a Spanish nobleman who 
 was unable or unwilling to pay for the 
 work when completed. It is known 
 that Canova. like many other eminent 
 men, mistook his real vocation, and took 
 more satisfaction in the productions of 
 his easel than those of the chisel. The 
 pictures preserved here, and others 
 which may be seen at the Villa Rezgo- 
 nico, near Bassano, do not give any 
 countenance to this delusion. Not 
 content with the sister arts of painting 
 and sculpture, Canova wished to distin- 
 guish himself also in architecture, and 
 at the same time to leave to posterity a 
 monument of his piety and attachment 
 to his birthplace. With this view he 
 designed a great church of circular form, 
 in which he sought to combine thedoric 
 portico of a Greek temple with the 
 cupola of the Pantheon at Rome. The 
 work was commenced in his lifetime, 
 the superintendence of details being en- 
 trusted to a local architect, who com- 
 pleted the building after the sculptor's 
 death. It stands on the slope, at some 
 height above the village, and 928 ft. 
 above the sea level. Opinions may 
 differ as to the fitness of the buildinga 
 for a church, but apart from its destina- 
 tion it must be regarded as a fine struc- 
 ture. The road to Feltre keeps along 
 
 S.T. G 
 
 the base of the mountains, not follow- 
 ing the torrent of Val Urgan s and ou 
 reaching the Piave turns northward to 
 the village oiFuier. The height of the 
 
 ! bed of the Piave is here 626 ft., or 22^ 
 ft. more than that of the Brenta at Bas- 
 sano. In the dry jS^ravelly bed of the 
 river the botanist may gather Leontodon 
 Birinii, which is known only in similar 
 stations between this river and the 
 Isonzo. After following the rt. bank 
 
 I of the Piave for about 8 m., the road 
 leaves the river-bank to ascend, at first, 
 by the rt., afterwards by the 1., bank of 
 the Sonna torrent, which leads to 
 
 Feltre (Inns : Vapore, very fair ; 
 Aquila d' Oro), a small town, claiming 
 to be reckoned among the most ancient 
 in Europe. It stands ou a rather steep 
 slope, above the junction of the Cunntdn 
 torrent with the Sonna, the ancient 
 castle called La Rocca (1,085'), and the 
 cathedral (1,051'), being much above 
 the level of the main street. Among 
 
 I other citizens of note. Feltre has pro- 
 
 ; dueed Panfilo Castaldi, who has been 
 claimed, on very slender grounds, as the 
 
 ' inventor of printing with movable types, 
 and Frate Bernardino, a monk who es- 
 tablished the first Mont de Fiete, an 
 institution which still exists in the 
 town. 
 
 Althoiigh at no great distance from 
 the peaks of the so-called Vette di 
 Feltre, it is not conveniently situated 
 for excursions. Those summits are 
 better reached from Primiero. (Sea 
 Rte. E.)
 
 450 S. TYROL AND A'ENETIAN ALPS. § 59. VALLEY OF THE BRENTA. 
 
 RoTJTE D. 
 
 BASSAKO TO FELTEE, BY MONTE GEAPPA. 
 
 9 to 10 hrs. walking, ezclasiye of halts. 
 
 The traveller who does not object to 
 a moderately long day's walk, may en- 
 joy some varied scenery, and a very 
 fine view, by taking a nearly direct line 
 from Bassano to Feltre across the sum- 
 mit of Monte Grappa (5,817'), the 
 highest summit of the outer range of 
 the Alps -rising immediately above the 
 plain of Venetia, Additional interest 
 will be felt by the botanist, who may 
 collect many rare plants, characteristic 
 of this region. If the excursion be 
 made from Bassano, a very early start 
 is advisable, as the ascent of the long 
 unbroken treeless slopes of the Grappa, 
 after the sun has acquired power, is a 
 trying process. The easiest way is to 
 ascend from Borso, a village a little to 
 the 1. of the road to Pussagno, nearly 
 5 m. from Bassano ; but the botanist 
 and the mountaineer will prefer a rather 
 more arduous sheep-track that ascends 
 the steep S. face of the mountain from 
 Crespano. The summit commands a 
 considerable Alpine panorama to the N., 
 but the chief interest of the \-iew is in 
 the opposite direction, as this summit 
 overlooks the greater part of the plain 
 of Venetia, and there is no other point 
 so well situated for a general view of 
 the lagoons, which in clear weather are 
 seen as though laid out upon a map. 
 The Monte Cesen, rising on the E. side 
 of the Piave, is at about the same dis- 
 tance from Venice ; but it is lower by at 
 least 700 ft. 
 
 The shortest way from the summit 
 of the Grappa to Peltre is to keep 
 nearly due N. until you descend into 
 the head of the Val di Seren, a long 
 glen running a little E. of N., and 
 drained by the Stizzone torrent. Thence- 
 forward a track leads along that stream. 
 The Stiszone is the chief of the torrents 
 which, tmiting near Feltre, form the 
 Sonna. On reaching the village of 
 
 Seren (1,268'), near the opening of the 
 glen, where the stream turns eastward 
 towards Feltre, the traveller may follow 
 a track by the rt. bank, but it is a 
 shorter course to cross to the opposite 
 bank, and there join the high-road, at a 
 point nearly 5 m. from Feltre. 
 
 A notice of the road from Primolano 
 to Feltre is found in the next Eoute. 
 
 EorTE E. 
 
 BASSANO TO PRIMIEEO, BY PEQIOLANO 
 AND FONZASO, 
 
 Carriage-road to Fonzaao, mule-track to 
 Pontetto, carriage-road thence to Primiero. 
 
 £ng. milea 
 
 Primolano 18i 
 
 Fonzaso lOJ 
 
 Pontetto 10 
 
 Primiero 7 
 
 46 
 
 The beautiful valley of Primiero must 
 long since have acquired celebrity, were 
 it not for the fact that it lies out of the 
 track of ordinary tourists, and is com- 
 paratively diflScult of access, especially 
 } from the S. side. The Austrian Govern- 
 ' ment has recently achieved the con- 
 struction of a military road from Pre- 
 , dazzo in Val di Fiemme, which has 
 opened the valley to travellers of every 
 class ; but even before this inducement 
 had been offered, many English tourists 
 had during the last few years been at-
 
 ROUTE E. — PRIMOLANO TO PUIMIERO. 
 
 451 
 
 trncted towards one of the finest — in ' 
 the ^yrite^'s orinion the finest — valley 
 of the Dolomite Alps. For the first 
 introduction to Priraiero, English tra- 
 vellers are indebted to the very interest- j 
 ing work of Messrs. Gilbert and ! 
 Churchill, often referred to in the fol- i 
 lowing sections. The mountaineer will | 
 desiderate further information as to the ! 
 higher summits than he will find in that : 
 volume. It should be understood that 
 although the most direct for travellers j 
 from the S. side, the route here de- ; 
 scribed is the most difficult for nervous 
 persons, unable to walk a few miles, } 
 owing to the steepness and roughness of j 
 the bridle-track between Fonzaso and the 
 Tyrolese frontier. The way by Agordo, 
 noticed in Rte. K, is doubtless easier. I 
 At Primolano, where the road to | 
 Feltre leaves the main line for Val i 
 
 deposits, either of marine or freshwater 
 origin. Against the supposition of some 
 geologists that the valley of the Piave 
 from hence to Belluno was at one time 
 a lake, it may be objected that the de- 
 posits of gravel which cover the surface, 
 or remain in the form of terraces on the 
 flanks of the valley, though sensibly 
 level to the eye, are not truly horizontal. 
 [From the point where the road to Fon- 
 zaso leaves the main line the distance 
 to Feltre is about 8 m. A little way 
 beyond Arte7i the Stizzone descends from 
 the Grappa into the valley, and turns 
 eastward. After receiving several minor 
 torrents it assumes below Feltre the 
 name Sonna, and finally joins the Piave 
 near Sanzan (737')-] 
 
 The diligence from Primolano to Fel- 
 tre usually makes the detour of about 
 U m. by FumasoHM'i'), a large and 
 
 Sugana (Rte. A), the new road ascends | thriving village, with a poor cotmtryinn 
 
 by several long zigzags the very steep 
 but short, slope that leads up to the 
 level of the broad valley which extends 
 hence to Feltre, being the orographic 
 prolongation of the valley of the Piave. 
 The geologist will find it difficult, to 
 reconcile the actual course of the rivers 
 here, as in many other parts of the 
 Eastern Alps, with the views of those 
 who refer the existing valleys and ridges 
 mainly to subaerial erosive action. The 
 new road is known as La Scala di Pri- 
 molano, but the name La Scala was 
 anciently given to an adjoining castle 
 erected by the Scaligers, and now in 
 ruins. Having attained the summit 
 level at Fastro (1,160'), the road tra- 
 verses undulating rocky ground, without 
 any running stream in either direction, 
 passes the village of Arsie (1,076'), and 
 descends about 150 ft. to cross the 
 Cismone. This river, after issuing from 
 the defile above Fonzaso, mentioned 
 below, traverses the broad valley, and 
 escapes southward through the still nar- 
 rower defile from which it flows out at 
 Cismone (Ete. A). The road to Feltre 
 is carried NE. for a short distance, and 
 then turns due E., over the nearly level 
 floor of the valley, which seems to be 
 partly filled up by recent sedimentary 
 
 QG 2 
 
 (Sant' Antonio), and another (Angelo), 
 which perhaps deserves a preference. 
 Fonzaso stands at the very base of the 
 steep stony slopes of the Monte d' Avena, 
 which produce a strong, rather rough, 
 wine, for which there is much demand. 
 
 There is a road, passable for a light 
 carrettina, from Fonzaso to Larnon 
 (2,060'), a -tillage above the rt. bank of 
 the Cismone, only 6 m. from the Ty- 
 rolese frontier. By writing, or sending 
 beforehand to Primiero, a vehicle may 
 be found in readiness at the frontier to 
 carry travellers to that place. But the 
 track from Lamon crosses the ravine of 
 the Cismone, thereby involving a long 
 descent and ascent, and besides this 
 the Italian customs authorities require 
 that luggage should pass by the fron- 
 tier station at Zorzoi. The consequence 
 is that nearly all the traffic passes by 
 the 1. bank of the Cismone, and the so- 
 called Via dello Schener from Zorzoi to 
 Pontett. It is not easy to find mules 
 suitable for ladies at Fonzaso, and the 
 way is in part so rough that they do 
 better to walk if possible. The best 
 course for those who cannot do so, is to 
 write beforehand to Primiero to order 
 one or more horses from the landlord of 
 the Acjuila Nera. Each horse may go
 
 452 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 59. VALLEY OF THE BRENTA. 
 
 in harness -vrith a carrettina (a small 
 vehicle carrying two passengers and the 
 driver; as far as the frontier, and be 
 used with a saddle between that place 
 and Fonzaso. Bonetti, the landlord 
 above mentioned, promises to have in 
 future at least one side-saddle for lady 
 visitors. On leaving Fonzaso, the pe- 
 destrian should not attempt to take the 
 triick close by the 1. bank of the Cis- 
 ]none, but follow the narrow and rough 
 i-!iar-road along the slope of the hill, 
 till in less than 1 m. he enters a gorge 
 enclosed between steep rocks, whereon 
 Thyteuma comosiim grows abundantly. 
 The gorge soon opens out, and before 
 long the road descends towards a new 
 bridge over the Cismone, whence it 
 ascends to Lam on. The way to Zorzoi 
 keeps to the E. side of the valley, and 
 moimts from near the bridge to a point 
 about 1,800 ft. in elevation, whence the 
 travelJer gains for the first time a 
 general view of the surrounding moun- 
 tains. It is seen that the basin extend- 
 ing northward for 3 or 4 m., was at a 
 comparatively recent period filled to a 
 great depth (at least 500 ft.) with drift 
 and alluvial gravel, and that since that 
 period the Cismone, and other minor 
 streams, have cut deep ravines through 
 this incoherent deposit. The presence 
 of erratic blocks from the head of the 
 valleys of the Cismone and Yanoi on 
 the surface of the plateau shows that 
 the glacier, which must have once filled 
 the lower valley, failed to clear away, 
 or to excavate deeply, the deposit over 
 which it had advanced. 
 
 The traveller very soon has practical 
 experience of the results of the geologi- 
 cal operations here referred to. The 
 Ausore torrent, descending from the 
 Vette di Feltre, crosses his route, and 
 necessitates a steep descent by a vile 
 stony path, and an ascent of nearly 700 
 ft. to reach the village of Sorriva 
 (1,982'). This is particularly trying to 
 beasts of burthen, and the greater part 
 of an hour is here consumed in per- 
 forming a distance not exceeding ^ m. 
 in a straight Jine. From Sorriva to 
 ZcfTzoi is a very pleasant walk over the 
 
 level plateau, with fine views of ths 
 surrounding mountains, and occasional 
 glimpses of the deep trench excavated 
 by the Cismone. The mountain on the 
 opposite side of the valley, rising N. of 
 Lamon is Monte Cop-polo, sometimes 
 visited by botanists, but its flora is not 
 comparable for variety to that of the 
 Vette di Feltre, of which some snmmits 
 are seen at no great distance on the rt. 
 Zorzoi is the last village on the Italian 
 side of the frontier, and therefore the 
 customs station. It has a very poor 
 osteria. The diluvial plateau, over 
 which the track has passed for some 
 distance, has been excavated by torrents,, 
 and disappears as the valley north of 
 Zorzoi gradually contracts to a defile. 
 The track mounts gently along the 
 slope of the mountain, and is then 
 can-ied nearly at a level for a consider- 
 able distance. Nearly at the highest 
 point reached by the path it passes the 
 ruined tower of Schener, once used for 
 levying toll from passengers, which has 
 given its name to this road. The path 
 is not bad, but as it is rather narrow, 
 and" often carried along precipitous 
 ro3ks, almost overhanging the bed of 
 the Cismone, nervous persons are not 
 comfortable in riding over it. Near 
 Schener the track from Lamon mounts 
 to join our route. A stream descend- 
 ing from the rt. has cut a deep trench in 
 the side of the mountain, and the path is 
 forced to make a considerable circuit, 
 and thenceforward with some undula- 
 tions descends towards the level of the 
 Cismone. The scenery is throughout 
 charming. For some tjme the traveller 
 has before him the Monte Tatoga, shaped 
 like a gigantic wedge, and cut off fi'om 
 the mountains on either side by a deep 
 cleft. Through that on its W. side 
 flows the Vanoi, descending from Caoria 
 (Rte. H), while the Cismone washes its 
 eastern base. About ^ m. above the 
 junction of the two streams the path, 
 keeping always to the 1. bank of the 
 Cismone, reaches the frontier, called 
 Pontetto, from a small stone bridge over 
 a torrent descending through a ravine 
 on the rt. hand. There is a wretched
 
 ROUTE E. — PRIMIEKO. 
 
 453 
 
 osieria on the Italian side ; but, on cross- 
 ing the bridge, the traveller finds a well- 
 built house kept by a guardaboschi. Since 
 the separation of Yenetia from Austria 
 the house was occupied by custom-house 
 officers, but in 1868 they are removed 
 to another house, and a stranger may 
 count on finding tolerable accommoda- 
 tion, and much civility from the landlord. 
 On reaching the Tyrolese frontier the 
 traveller is surprised to find an excellent 
 road, completed in 1866, leading from 
 this point to Primiero. Unfortunately 
 there is little prospect of the road being 
 continued along the much more difficult 
 ground, intervening between this and 
 Fonzaso. With the passage of the in- 
 ternational boundary ensues a change in 
 the character of the scenery. The defile 
 opens out somewhat, and allows space 
 for the road along the 1. bank of the 
 stream. Huge erratic blocks of por- 
 phyry are perched on the steep slopes, 
 composed of fine angular fragments of 
 dolomitic limestone, and when dttached 
 from their resting-places by rain or 
 frost, roll down into the bed of the Cis- 
 mone. For about 2 m. the road follows 
 the 1. bank, about due N., a small church 
 on a lofty pinnacle of Monte Tatoga 
 being here a conspicuous object. After 
 crossing the Cismone by a new stone 
 bridge the road turns to NE., and the 
 valley of Primiero opens out before the 
 traveller. The principal group of do- 
 lomite peaks is not immediately seen ; 
 but the summits enclosing the head of 
 Val Noana, rising above the intervening 
 range of Monte Tase, are already attrac- 
 tive objects. Passing the first group of 
 houses, called Taiiferi, whence the 
 beaten track to Canal di San Bovo 
 (Rte. G) ascends to cross the ridge of 
 the Gobera, the road soon reaches IrTier, 
 the first of the group of villages that 
 make up the district of Primiero. This 
 stands opposite the opening of Val 
 Noana, a remarkable glen, further 
 noticed among the excursions in this 
 neighbourhood. It should be observed 
 that among the people of the valley the 
 name Primiero is employed collectively 
 for the entire district, and that the ap- 
 
 plication of that name to the chief 
 village, though general among strangers, 
 is not sanctioned by local usage. 
 
 A short way beyond Imer is the 
 second village, called Mezzano. Here, 
 and throughout the valley, the stranger 
 is struck by the appearance of comfort 
 and prosperity which seems universal 
 among the population. Though sur- 
 rounded by barren mountains, there is 
 a moderate breadth of good land in the 
 bottom of the valley, whereon heavy 
 crops of maize are annually raised. Of 
 course the chief reliance of the popula- 
 tion is on their dairy stock ; and Primiero 
 butter is advantageously known in 
 Venice, and other Italian cities. The 
 road winds round the base of the moun- 
 tain on the 1. hand, and then approaches 
 1 the banks of the rushing Cismone; but 
 it is only when within a few hundred 
 yards' distance that the traveller gains 
 a view of the slender pointed spire that 
 marks the chief village of the valley, 
 locally known as 
 
 La Fiera (2,349'). The traveller will 
 find good quarters and attention at the 
 Aquila, kept by Bonetti, surnamed Moro 
 — charges not unreasonable, but not so 
 cheap as a few years ago. He must 
 not expect in this remote place all the 
 appliances of advanced civilisation, but 
 will find several clean and comfortable 
 rooms, and tolerably good and abundant 
 food. 
 
 A party intending to remain here 
 some weeks might probabJy arrange 
 for board and lodging on economical 
 terms. There is another inn on the 
 opposite or W. side of the main street, 
 kept by a family, also named Bonetti, 
 whose delinquencies are chronicled in 
 Messrs. Gilbert and Churchill's book. 
 As they have since suffered by seeing all 
 English visitors go to the rival house, 
 the writer is inclined to believe in the 
 sincerity of their repentance, and p:fo- 
 mises of amendment. 
 I Primiero was celebrated in the 15th 
 I and ] 6th centuries for its silver mine, 
 long since exhausted. The only evi- 
 dence remaining of its former wealth is 
 a missive silver remonstrance, 2 ft. ia.
 
 454 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 51). VALLEY OF THE BRENTA. 
 
 heijiht, presented by the miners to the 
 parish church. This is worth a visit, 
 being a characteristic specimen of early 
 <icrTn?n- pointed architecture. Opposite 
 to La Fiera, on the E. side of the Cis- 
 moue, is the N-iihige of 
 
 Transacqua, with the adjoininghamlet 
 of Ormcnico. The parish church con- 
 tains a picture of St. Mark, of which the 
 head has been attributed to Titian, 
 
 Iron mines are still worked at Pri- 
 miero ; but tlie increasing cost of fuel, 
 and the expense of carriage in a valley 
 not accessible by wheel vehicles, has 
 interfered with their prosperity. 
 
 A short description of the valley, and 
 a notice of some excursions not included 
 among the following routes, may be ac- 
 ceptable. Further information will be 
 found in a lively article by Mr. Leslie 
 Stephen in the 4th vol. of the ' Alpine 
 Journal.' 
 
 The Valley of Primiero, from the base 
 of Monte Tatoga to Siror and Tonadico, 
 the highest villages, is enclosed on either 
 side by comparatively low, rounded, 
 pine-covered ridges. That on the X\V. 
 side is formed of crystalline slate, and 
 at one point, not far from the track to 
 Canale, granite makes its appearance 
 on the surface. The opposite ridge, 
 collectively called Monte Tase, is partly 
 formed of limestone, and partly of red 
 porphyry, which forms the rugged mass 
 rising E. of Transacqua. Immediately 
 above the village of La Fiera the valley 
 divides. The main branch of the Cis- 
 mone, descending from nearly due N., 
 receives a torrent from the NE., issuing 
 from Val di Canale. In the fork be- 
 tween these two branches rises the won- 
 derful group of dolomite peaks, which 
 must ever make this one of the most 
 extraordinary of mountain valleys. 
 Whatever fantastic forms that rock may 
 assume elsewhere, they are here sur- 
 passed in boldness and strangeness. Of 
 the five or six highest, all much exceed- 
 ing 10,000 ft. in height, there is but 
 one at all easy of access. The others 
 are either mere towers or obelisks of 
 rock, with sheer vertical faces, or else, 
 as the highest peak, fashioned like a 
 
 ruinous wall, abruptly broken away at 
 one end, and cleft at frequent intervals 
 along the ridge by chasms that appear 
 perfectly impassable. In rock-climbing 
 it is never safe to declare any place im- 
 practicable without actual trial. Narrow 
 ledges and clefts often give footing on a 
 seemingly impracticable declivity. The 
 writer's impression as to the inaccessi- 
 bility of the Primiero peaks, though con- 
 firmed by several of the most experienced 
 mountaineers, has been falsified by the 
 successful ascent of two of the highest. 
 As most of the higher summits lie nearly 
 in a line from N. to S., they are not seen 
 to advantage from Primiero. One alone 
 — the Sas Maor, the southernmost of the 
 group — suffices to rivet the attention of 
 the beholder. A much lower summit, 
 the Cima Cimedo, which may be likened 
 to a massive buttress, adorned by hun- 
 dreds of pinnacles, stands between the 
 spectator and the Sas Maor ; but as the 
 latter towers above it to a vast height, 
 the general effect is rather increased 
 than otherwise. There is no satisfac- 
 tory information, or at least none 
 published, respecting the height of these 
 summits. There can be no doubt what- 
 ever that the 
 
 Cimon dell a Pal a, partly seen from 
 Primiero, at the head of the main valley 
 on the rt. hand, is the highest peak. 
 The measurement of the Austrian 
 'Ivataster' is 10,643 ft.; while the 
 height attributed on the same authority 
 to the Palle di San Martino, not visible 
 from Primiero, is 10,969 ft. It is pos- 
 sible that the error here arises from a 
 transposition of names, as on that sup- 
 position the figures correspond pretty 
 well with the relative height of those 
 summits. The Cima di Fradtista, SE, 
 of the Palle di S. Martino, is about the 
 same height, while a broad topped 
 summit farther E., seen from Primiero 
 above the Val di Canale, may be a few 
 feet higher. The summit E. of the head 
 of Val di Canale, is the Croda Grande 
 (Sasso di Campo of some maps), 9.091 
 ft. in height, accordiner to the Kataster, 
 but higher by 700 or 800 ft. The .S'a.s 
 Maor falls somewhat below the highest
 
 ROUTE E. — EXCURSIONS FROM PRIMIERO. 
 
 455 
 
 of its companions, but the height of 
 8,323 ft., given in the second edition of 
 Schaubach, is ludicrously below the 
 mark, as it cannot fall much below the 
 limit of 10,000 ft. Some dolomite peaks 
 which elsewhere would attract attention 
 rise above the head of Val Noana, lo- 
 cally called Val Asinozza. The highest 
 is apparently that called, par excellence, 
 II JPiz. In the opposite direction, about 
 due W. of Primiero, rises the granitic 
 mass of the Cima d'Asta (Rte. H), which 
 comes into view whenever the traveller 
 rises high enough to overlook the ridge 
 bounding the vaUey on that side. It is 
 strange that the popular belief in the 
 supremacy of that peak extends even to 
 the people who live at the foot of much 
 loftier summits. 
 
 Few places offer a greater variety of 
 interesting excursions than Primiero. 
 Strangers must not expect to find here 
 professional guides. Travellers con- 
 templating ambitious excursions must 
 bring competent guides with them. Of 
 the local men the best is probably Giu- 
 seppe Brentel. Au old man, nicknamed 
 Moidele, who is sometimes recommended 
 to strangers, knows th«i country, but is 
 unable to keep up with even the most 
 moderate pace. Two hunters, both 
 named Coicscl, also deserve mention. 
 One of them, designated Colesel Rosso, 
 is very useful as a porter. He is stunted 
 and unprepossessing in appearance, but 
 honest, and very strong, and will carry 
 50 or 60 lbs. of luggage, day after 
 day, over rough ground, not expecting 
 more than 2 florins daily. The men 
 hereabouts are used to carry heavy 
 weights, and an older man who acts as 
 carrier between Primiero and Fonzaso 
 may be trusted to carry the same burden 
 between those places. 
 
 The inevitable excursion from Pri- 
 miero, a mere etrolL is that to the castle 
 of La Pietra, noticed in Rte. K. A 
 slight detour to a plain square shooting- 
 lodge standing near the entrance to Val 
 di Canale, will give some idea of the 
 scenery of that singular glen. This is 
 the residence of Count Welsberg, the 
 present representative of a very ancient 
 
 Tyrolese family, once lords of the entire 
 valley. 
 
 An excursion highly to be recom- 
 mended, which is within reach of very 
 moderate walkers, is that to Val Noana. 
 The lower part, for a distance of about 
 
 1 hr. from its opening opposite Imer, is 
 a defile of the grandest character. About 
 
 2 hrs. farther the Noana torrent receives 
 an affluent descending from the ^llpe di 
 Neva, where there is a large dairy esta- 
 blishment. This lies but a short way 
 from the Passo della Finestra, over which 
 a circuitous track leads to Feltre. The 
 main glen, above the junction of the 
 Neva, is called Val Asmozza a wild 
 recess, enclosed at its head by the bare 
 dolomite rocks of II Piz and Monte 
 Asinozza, The best way to visit Val 
 Noana is to enter it by a rough cart- 
 
 ', track recently made for the carriage of 
 timber and charcoal, connected with the 
 ; main road through the valley of Pri- 
 miero by a bridge near Mezzano. The 
 I track is carried for some way close to 
 I the Noana torrent, in the jaws of the 
 defile. This begins to open out when 
 , Val Noana turns to NE., parallel to 
 I that of Primiero. If not anxious to 
 reach the Neva Alp, and the Passo della 
 Finestra, the traveller will do well to 
 take the first track to the 1., and mount 
 the ridge of Monte Tase, keeping, how- 
 ever, to the Noana s.de of that ridge, 
 till he has passed the junction of its two 
 upper branches. Rather beyond the 
 point where it would appear expedient 
 to strike NNW. across the ridge of Monte 
 Tase. in order to return to Primiero, he 
 will find a well-made track, carried 
 nearly at a level for a considerable dis- 
 tance up Val Asinozza, at a great height 
 above the torrent. The alp at the head 
 of that glen is- devoted exclusively to 
 sheep, and the mountaineer s mid-day 
 luxuries, milk and butter, are not to be 
 found. Returning over the ridge of 
 Monte Tase fine views are gained of the 
 Cima d'Asta, and part of the Primiero 
 dolomites. A guide is almost necessary 
 for this exctiTsion, as most of the paths 
 on Monte Tase are very faintly traced, 
 excepting one leading to Mezzano.
 
 456 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 59. VALLEY OF THE BRENTA. 
 
 Another excursion, recommended to \ 
 moderate walkers, is to ascend west- : 
 ward from Siror (the last village on the | 
 Cismono, less than 1 m. from La Fiera) j 
 to the little Lake of Calaita (about \ 
 6,000' ?). Tliis rests on a small pla- j 
 teau, drained by a torrent that runs j 
 SW. through the Val di Lozem to join j 
 the Vanoi near the village of Canale j 
 (Rte. G). The traveller may follow the 
 track aiong the torrent to Prade, re- i 
 turning to Primiero by the Gobera ; but 
 he will gain finer views by following 
 the ridge dividing Primiero from Lozem, 
 and thence descending to Mezzano, The 
 interest of this excursion will be much 
 increased by ascending from the Lake 
 of Calaita to the summit of Monte 
 Arzon (about 8,700'?), a mountain 
 nearly due W. of Primiero, equidistant 
 between the great dolomite peaks, the 
 Cima d' Asta, and the porphyry range 
 forming the boundary of the Fiemme 
 district. 
 
 An excursion of the highest interest, 
 strongly recommended to all tourists, 
 but especially to the botanist, is the 
 ascent of the Favione, or Col di Luna * 
 (7,877'), the highest summit of the 
 Vette di Feltre. This, which is the 
 summit seen to the rt. in viewing the 
 Vette from Primiero, may be reached 
 from Feltre or Fonzaso ; but the inte- 
 rest of the expedition is much increased 
 by following the course here suggested. 
 It is rather a long day's walk for mode- 
 rate pedestrians, but fair quarters for 
 the night are found at the Agnerola 
 Malga, of which the botanist will not 
 fail to avail himself, if he would gain 
 necessary time for gathering the many 
 rare plants found on the mountain. 
 
 * The name Col di Lnna has been supposed 
 to indicate a pass, from the word Col being 
 taken in the sense it commonly hears, derived 
 from the local dialects of the Western Alps. 
 In this region it must be understood to be the 
 Venetian form of the Italian word Colle—\i\l\ 
 or mountain. It recurs frequently in the Ve- 
 netian Alps, and the Italian Tyrol ; and if it 
 has anywhere got into use to indicate a pass, 
 it is only in the same sense as many passes in 
 Switzerland and Savoy are designated by the 
 •word Mont: e.g. Mont Cenis, Mont Gen^vre. 
 Mont St. Gothard. 
 
 From the SW. end of the craggy range 
 of the Vette di Feltre extends to NW. 
 a broad rounded ridge, partly covered 
 with pine forest, partly green with Alpine 
 pasture and mountain meadows, cut off 
 on three sides by deep valleys, above 
 which it rises in steep cliffs. This is 
 the Monte Vederne, under whose W. 
 and N. faces the new road is carried 
 from Pontetto to Imer. Its eastern 
 face overlooks the deep gorge of the 
 Noana mentioned above. The direct 
 M'ay from Primiero is by a track through 
 the fields from Mezzano, leading to a 
 bridge over the Cismone immediately 
 below the junction of the Noana torrent. 
 A beaten track, known as Strada della 
 Vederne, begins to ascend through pine 
 forest close to the bridge, and after 
 reaching an oratory about 1,000 ft. 
 above the torrent, is carried southward 
 above the gorge of the Noana. The 
 way is throughout very beautiful, and 
 there seems to be no reason why ladies 
 should not ride as far as the Agnerola 
 Alp, dismounting at one or two awkward 
 places. Rather more than 1 hr. from 
 the foot of the mountain the track is 
 joined by a goat-track which mounts 
 ' directly from the goi^e of the Noana, 
 I and that course is recommended to ac- 
 } tive pedestrians not already acquainted 
 I with the grand scenery of the defile 
 I below. A little farther a point is reached 
 where the wall of rock overhead forms 
 a semicircular enclosure and a little 
 streamlet springing over the edge falls 
 I into a basin. The obstacle is sur- 
 mounted by a wooden gallery supported 
 on beams driven into the rock : for a 
 few minutes the way lies through a 
 rocky cleft, and then emerges on a slope 
 of fine mountain meadow. Echinosper- 
 mum dejiexum grows near the gallery, 
 and many other rare plants are seen by 
 the way. A short ascent through pine 
 forest now leads to the green pastures 
 1 that cover the ridge of the mountain, 
 i A little to the rt. is the casera oi Ague- 
 I rola (5,147'). This offers better accom- 
 1 modation than usual in such places, 
 I having a bedstead full of clean dry hay, 
 1 separated from the common room by a
 
 ROUTE E. ASCENT OF THE PAVIOXE. 
 
 457 
 
 partition. When not required by the ] 
 owner, who sometimes comes to visit 
 the establishment, this is at the dispo- 
 sal of strangers. About 150 cows are 
 pastured here, and the services of six 
 or eight men are required ; yet there is 
 no drinkable water near at hand, and 
 one of the men daily descends a dis- 
 tance of 1 hr., and remounts laden with ; 
 a small barrel of the precious liquid. J 
 The position of the Agnerola Alp is i 
 charming, and an evening is pleasantly , 
 spent in breathing the pure air and en- i 
 joying the view, unless the traveller i 
 prefer to seek rare plants at the base of ] 
 the rocks of the Pavione. This rises | 
 SE. of the alp in the form of a pyra- ' 
 mid, girdled by two steep rooky belts 
 that from a distance seem difficult of 
 access. Below the lower range of rocks 
 is a declivity clothed with pine forest, 
 and in part with PiniLs mvghus. 
 
 The ascent of the peak, though suf- 
 ficiently steep, does not offer the slightest 
 difficulty. There is no need to make a 
 considerable detour to the rt., as coun- 
 selled by the herdsmen. Keeping but 
 a little to the left of the straight coui'se, 
 any one used to mountain climbing will 
 reach the summit in about 2 hrs. from 
 the case r a. 
 
 The view is at once varied and ex- 
 tensive. The coast of the Adriatic from 
 Chioggia beyond Venice to the mouth 
 of the Isonzo, is better seen than from 
 any other Alpine summit, excepting, 
 perhaps, the 3Ionte Cavallo (§ 63, Ete. 
 I). The dolomite peaks of Primiero 
 are not seen to the best advantage, but 
 the supremacy of the Cimon deiia Pala 
 over his nearer rivals here admits of no 
 doubt. Most of the higher summits 
 of Cadore may be distinguished, along 
 with many a minor peak not to be 
 identified without minute local know- 
 ledge. 
 
 This mountain is known to botanists 
 as one of those in the range of the Alps 
 that produces the richest harvest of 
 rare plants. A few of these only can 
 be enumerated here : — Anemone baldensis 
 and A. narcissiflora, Ranunculus Se- 
 guieH and E, Thora, Bel^phinium mon- 
 
 tanum, Fapaver jyyrenaicum, Arahis 
 pumila, A!yssum Wu/fenianum, Coch- 
 Icaria brevicaulis, Alsine lanceolata and 
 A. graralnijolia, Cerastium tomeniosum 
 (this and the last on the rocks above 
 Aune), Phaca frigida (highest peak), 
 Potentilla nitida, Saadfroga jpetr^a, 
 Valeriana elmigata, Ft ar mica oxyloha, 
 Scorzonera 'purpurea, Pcederota Ageria 
 and P. Bonarota, Pcdicida.is ro.<eUf 
 Prinnda Facchinii, Cortusa Maithioli 
 (abundant), and Avtna Hostii. On 
 rocks at the base of Monte Vedeme 
 may be gathered the rare Asplenium 
 Seelosii. 
 I In descending from the summit, va- 
 rious courses are offered to the traveller's 
 choice. He may turn ENE. to the 
 col (7,185'), between the Pavione and 
 Monte Pietina (the next peak in the 
 \ range of the Vette), and by a circuitous 
 I but agreeable track, known to the 
 j herdsmen, finally get down to the 
 I middle part of Yal Xoana. If bound 
 for Feltre, the shortest and easiest "way 
 is to bear at first SE., then S., along 
 the slopes of Monte Lamen, and finally, 
 : by going down steep grassy slopes, 
 i reach the col (3,472') between Aune 
 I and Pedevena (1,206'). A beaten track 
 leads from the col to the latter village, 
 ■which is only 2 m. from Feltre. What- 
 I ever the traveller's destination may be, 
 if he be a lover of extraordinary scenery, 
 j or a botanist, he should prefer to every 
 j other course the path to Aune, a small 
 village lying in a recess at the SSW. 
 side of tlae mountain, imless he choose 
 to reverse the route here suggested, and 
 ascend from that side. A little below 
 the top, he should descend a rather 
 long slope of steep debris (producing 
 some of the rarest plants above enume- 
 rated), which leads to a stony hollow 
 where there is one of the few springs of 
 water to be foimd on the mountain. 
 Thence the course lies westward, nearly 
 at a level, and even ascending slightly 
 above the rim of the formidable preci- 
 pices, whose existence is not suspected 
 till they are seen from below. The 
 track leads to a casera, whence an easy- 
 path leads to the Agnerola Alp. If hd
 
 45S S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 59. VALLEY OF THE BRENTA. 
 
 be not accompanied by a local guide, 
 one of the iierdsmen should be engaged 
 to put the traveller on the path leading 
 down the precipices to Aune, When 
 once found, it is impossible for him to 
 lose it, and further guidance is not 
 needed. It will be some time before 
 he will be aware of the formidable 
 character of the precipices amongst 
 which ne is engaged. The path is 
 carried to and fro along ledges and 
 under overhanging rocks, so that it is 
 impossible to guess what its ultimate 
 direction may be. With many another 
 scene of the kind present to his memory, 
 the writer does not recollect any fre- 
 quented path that surmounts such hope- 
 less-looking precipices. Difficulty there 
 is none ; but at one point, unavoidable, 
 though slight, danger is incurred for a 
 few moments. The track passes at one 
 place along the foot of a precipice, 
 about 1,800 ft. in height, which actually 
 overhangs its base. The cattle feeding 
 on the slope above, sometimes set 
 stones in motion that fall on, or close, 
 to the path.* 
 
 If returning from Aune to Primiero, 
 the traveller may take the beaten track 
 by Servo to Zorzoi, or avoid the village 
 of Aune, and follow a rough path along 
 the N. side of the valley, till after many 
 ups and downs, he descends in about 3 
 hxs from the summit to Zorzoi to rejoin 
 the Schener track to Primiero. 
 
 Practised mountaineers who may 
 halt for awhile at Primiero will natu- 
 rally give some attention to the great 
 dolomite peaks, which are its chief at- 
 traction. Such travellers usually select 
 their own route, but it may be well 
 to point out that the broken plateau, 
 which on the NE. side seems to connect 
 together the mass of the dolomite peaks, 
 is accessible through the main branch 
 of the Val di Canale (mentioned above), 
 and Irom that side the Cima di Fradusta 
 is accessible as well as from the side of 
 Pravitali. There is no difficulty in pass- 
 
 1 
 
 * The writer is accustomed to believe that 
 in such places the risk of injury is much di- 
 minished by carrying an open umbrella over 
 lUBhead. 
 
 ing along the plateau by the N. side of 
 the Palle di San Martino to the Passo 
 delle Cornelle (Rte. L), and so descend- 
 ing to San Martino di Castrozza and 
 Primiero. 
 
 On the whole, the finest expedition 
 for a moderate mountaineer, anxious to 
 make acquaintance with the highest 
 peaks of this district, is to ascend 
 through the Val di Pravitali (mis- 
 printed Travitali in Mr. Stephen's paper 
 in the ' Alpine Guide '). This is a sin- 
 gular gorge narrowed above to a mere 
 cleft that is passed on the 1. hand in 
 ascending the Val di Canale. In about 
 4j hrs. from Primiero the climber issues 
 from the cleft upon a little grassy plain 
 almost completely enclosed by lofty 
 peaks. In one direction a small glacier 
 leads up to the Cima di Fraditsfa, the 
 most easily accessible of the Primiero 
 peaks; to the S. rises another summit, 
 hitherto nameless, now called Cima di 
 Ball (probably about 10,000'), climbed 
 by Mr. Stephen, separated by a deep 
 trench from the Sas Maor. N. of the 
 same spot is the Palle di Scm Martino, 
 the third in height of this group, which 
 has hitherto resisted all attempts to scale 
 it. Mr. Stephen made a rather difficult 
 descent from the col between the last- 
 named and the Cima <!ii Ball into the 
 main branch of the valley above Siror ; 
 but on a subsequent occasion took a 
 more interesting way over the rough 
 plateau that stretches from the Fradusta 
 to the Cimon della Pala, descending by 
 the Passo delle Cornelle (Ste. L), to 
 which he was led by the stcne-man 
 erected by Mr. Tuckett's guides.
 
 ROUTE F. — SAN MARTIXO DI CASTROZZA. 
 
 459 
 
 Route F. 
 
 peimiero to predazzo ix fiemme, by 
 
 sax marti xo di castp.dzza. 
 
 A new char-road now open for traffic. 
 
 Hrs. walking 
 Fan Martino di Castrozza . . 3i 
 
 Paneveggio 3" 
 
 Predazzo 3 
 
 9J 
 Since the opening of the road to 
 Primioro from the Val cli Fiemme, that 
 ■nay is naturally chosen Ly travellers 
 arriving from the N. side. Although 
 the whale distance is easily accomplished 
 in one day, it is a Letter plan to halt at 
 Paneveggio and enjoy the charming 
 walks that are found in the neighhour- 
 bood. If the accommodation at San 
 Martino di Castrozza were improved, all 
 mountaineers \\ould select that place as 
 head-quarters for expeditions among 
 the higher peaks. 
 
 As mentioned in the last Rte., the 
 upper end of the valley of the Cismoue, 
 sometimes called Val di Castrozza, 
 stretches for about 12 m. nearly due N. 
 from its junction with the Val di Canale. 
 Beyond the 's-illage of Siror, standing at 
 the lower end, less than 1 m. above La 
 Fiera, there are scarcely any permanent 
 dwellings in the valley. On the east 
 side the steep slopes at the base of the 
 great range of dolomite peaks are mostly 
 covered with forest, save where land- 
 slips, avalanches, or torrents, have torn 
 away the surface, and exposed the soil, 
 composed of comminuted fragments of 
 dolomite. On the opposite side the slope 
 is rather less steep, but is also to a great 
 extent covered with forest. The shortest 
 way to Siroris by the path that is carried 
 along the 1. bank of the Cismone from 
 the bridge at La Fiera. The path above 
 Siror by the E. side of the valley leads 
 directly to San Martino, but the new 
 road ascends along the opposite side 
 above the rt. bank of the torrent. This 
 way is rather longer, but rewards 
 the traveller by noble views of the 
 great peaks that tower above the 
 valley. 
 
 { San Martino di Castrozza (4,912') is 
 i an ancient hospice, fornierly belonging 
 I to a religious community, now leased to 
 : a farmer, whose numeroxis family and 
 farm-.'^ervants occupy a large part of the 
 building. Another part is reserved for 
 a priest, who officiates here in siimmer, 
 so that the space available for travellers 
 is very limited. There is but a single 
 separate bed-room, comfortless and ill- 
 lighted, and meals are taken in the 
 common close and crowded room which 
 serves for the inmates and passing way- 
 farers. A single woman, one of the 
 family, cooks for and waits upon all. 
 and though she does all in her power 
 for strangers, the result is discomfort 
 and privation. This is the more un- 
 fortunate as there are few spots in the 
 Alps more thoroughly enjoyable in fine 
 weather, or where a few days might be 
 passed so agreeably, if a moderate share 
 of creature-comforts were to be found. 
 The new road passes about KSO yards 
 from the hospice, and the drivers halt 
 there. Of the many excursions that ' 
 might be made fram San Martino, we 
 may here mention the Passo delle Cor- 
 nelle, noticed in Ete. L, and those to 
 I the Lakes of Colbricon, and to the 
 '. Monte Castellazzo, mentioned below. 
 j On no account should the traveller fail 
 ■■ to gain the wonderful view of the dolo- 
 : mite peaks which is obtained from the 
 j heights on the W. side of the valley. 
 The most favourable point is probably 
 a summit (Monte Tognazzo) which may 
 be reached in ^ hr. from the Tognola 
 Alp. (Ete. H.)" 
 
 The valley of the Cismone extends 
 for about 1 hr. above San Martino 
 to the base of a massive wall of rock 
 that bars the valley across. At its E. 
 end this abuts against the base of 
 the Cimon della Pala, while on the 
 1. hand it is divided by a narrow gap 
 from the Monte Cavalazzo. The road 
 winds up the E. slope of the latter 
 mountain to the plateau that lies be- 
 tween it and the head of Val Tra- 
 vignolo. This highland tract is locally 
 known as La Costonzella, which name 
 is given to the pass. As the ground
 
 460 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 59. VALLEY OF THE BRENTA. 
 
 is perfectly easy, the pedestrian need 
 not keep near to the road. If pressed 
 for time he may take a path passing by 
 the Casera di Rolle, or else bear to the rt. 
 over swelling pastures. The views are 
 already very fine, but no traveller having 
 an hour to spare should omit to make 
 a slight detour in order to approach the 
 base of the Cimon della Pala. This may 
 best be described as a shattered wall of 
 dolomite, about 11,000 ft. in height. 
 When seen from the S. and SW., the 
 crest shows as a broken ridge, cut into 
 teeth by deep chasms, surmounting a 
 broad and nearly vertical face of rock. 
 But from the NE. side scarcely any- 
 thing is in view save the extremity of 
 the wall, surmounted by two enormous 
 coping-stones, in the shape of masses of 
 •unshatterr-d rock, each several hundred 
 ft. in height. The uppermost is pyra- 
 mid-shaped at the top ; but the point 
 visible from this side is certainly not 
 the highest. To see it to full advantage 
 the traveller should bear to the rt. from 
 the track to Paneveggio, and ascend to 
 the upper part of the plateau, above the 
 wall of rock that bars the head of Val 
 di Castrozza, overlooking a savage hol- 
 low through which the drainage of the 
 enow-beds, and of two small glaciers, 
 descends to Val Travignolo. Involun- 
 tarily the Alpine traveller will compare 
 this with the most sublime scenes of a 
 similar character to be found elsewhere 
 in the Alps, and especially with the 
 view of the Matterhorn from the ridge 
 of the Hornli. The height of the two 
 peaks from the apparent base is about 
 equal, but the Cimon is undeniably the 
 more slender, and, so to say, the more 
 incredible of the two. Daring as is the 
 form of the Matterhorn, it suggests the 
 idea of stability ; whereas it is easy to 
 conceive that a trifling accident, the 
 yielding of a single stone in its masonry, 
 might set this gigantic fabric toppling 
 over into utter ruin. It is needless to say 
 that the absence of great glaciers, and 
 extensive snow-fields, makes the general 
 character of the view very diflferent. 
 
 The mountaineer who does not object 
 to rough ground may follow the stream 
 
 through the above-mentioned hollow till 
 he strikes the path leading from the 
 Yenigia Pass to Paneveggio (§ 60, Rte. 
 El. The shorter and easier way is to 
 return to the track which was left near 
 the summit-level, 6,657 fl. in height. 
 
 The scenerv' of Val Travignolo, to- 
 wards which the track now descends, 
 ofl'ers a striking contrast to that which 
 has been so recently left behind. The 
 easily disintegrated porphyry rock, 
 which here prevails, forms mountains 
 with rounded outlines, whose slopes are 
 covered with extensive pine forests. In 
 3 hrs. from San Martino the traveller 
 will easily reach Paneveggio (5,160'). 
 A large building here, originally con- 
 structed as a hospice on the same plan 
 as that of San Martino, has, like it, 
 passed into the hands of a family of 
 peasants. The house has of lat.- been 
 partly rebuilt, and supplies very fair 
 accommodation for a few travellers. 
 
 Val Travignolo — one of the chief 
 lateral valleys of Val di Fiemme — is 
 farther noticed in § 60, Ete. E. An 
 easy walk of 3 hrs. leads from Pane- 
 veggio to Predazzo in Fiemme. 
 
 There is another route, a little shorter, 
 but much rougher, than that above de- 
 scribed, between San Martino di Cas- 
 trozza and Paneveggio. Turning west- 
 ward from the hospice along the S. side 
 of a large meadow, the traveller will 
 easily find a broad track that mounts 
 gradually to NW. through pine-forest 
 till it reaches a large casera, lying in 
 a hollow traversed by a slender rivulet. 
 This leads up to another higher and much 
 wilder stony basin, partly filled by frag- 
 ments of rock fallen from the surround- 
 ing heigths. The track keeps the bottom 
 of the hoUow, and then mounts the 
 ridge at its upper end, forming the 
 water-shed between the Cismone and 
 the Travignolo. This is the Passo di 
 Colbncon. Several small lakes or Al- 
 pine tarns lie in hollows of the mountain 
 on the right of the pass. This is incor- 
 rectly represented in all the ordinary 
 maps, where the track is made to pass 
 by the lakes. To reach the lowest and 
 largest of these it is necessary to turn
 
 ROUTE G. VALLEY OF TESIN. 
 
 461 
 
 sharply to the rt. from the summit of the 
 pass, and cross some rough ground. 
 Keeping onward through the forest 
 below, and E. of the lake — a haunt of 
 the cock of the woods, now rare in this 
 district — it is easy to reach the Casera 
 di EoUe, and return that way to San 
 Martino. The beaten track from the 
 Colbricon pass leads by Paneveggio to 
 Predazzo, but there is a rather shorter 
 way, avoiding Paneveggio, and following 
 for some distance the 1. bank of the Tra- 
 vignolo. 
 
 Travellers bound for the Val di Fassa 
 may follow a mountain track from Pane- 
 veggio to Moena, and enjoy glorious 
 views by the way, 
 
 For excursions from Paneveggio see 
 § 60, Rte. E. 
 
 Route G. 
 
 boego dl val sugana to primiero, by 
 canale di san bovo. 
 
 Carriagc-road to Pieve di Tesin, about 9 m. ; 
 thence to rrimiero TJ hrs. 
 
 Although this involves a longer ride, 
 or walk, than the route to Primiero by 
 Eonzaso (Rte. E), it is perhaps to be 
 preferred by nervous persons, as the 
 track is throughout safe and tolerably 
 easy. In spile of the necessity of cross- 
 ing three ridges, one of them being of 
 considerable height, much traffic passes 
 this way, especially since the separation 
 of Venetia from Tyrol. It is not un- 
 common to meet trains of mides laden 
 with wine, and other produce of the 
 warm region, bound for the Canal di 
 S. Bovo and Primiero. In approaching 
 Primiero by this way from Bassano, it 
 
 is expedient to engage a vehicle at 
 Primolano for La Pieve di Tesin (4 to 5 
 fl. with one horse) ; unless the traveller 
 prefer to mount on foot through the 
 gorge of the Gvigno. 
 
 Starting from Borgo there is a direct 
 road from Castelnovo to Strigno, but in 
 approaching from the south side the 
 high-road is left at the Barricate. 
 (Rte. A.) 
 
 /SYr/^wo (1 ,491') is a well-built village, 
 with every appearance of comparative 
 wealth and comfort. It has lately been 
 connected by a new and tolerably good 
 road with the valley of Tesin. This 
 winds up the hill above Strigno, leaving 
 to tKe N. the old steep track, and finally 
 gains the ridge "(about 3,000') that 
 divides the valley of Tesin from Val 
 Sugana. A gentle descent leads to the 
 principal village of the former valley, 
 called 
 
 La Pieve di Tesin (2,S62'). The inn (al 
 Sole) is of humble and unprepossessing 
 appearance, but there is a pretty good 
 room on the second floor, and the tra- 
 veller will find tolerable food, civility, 
 and very moderate charges. 
 
 The population of Tesin is concentrated 
 
 in three villages, La Pieve, Castello (on 
 
 the 1. bank of the Grigno torrent"), and 
 
 Cinte, a little below La Pieve, on the rt, 
 
 bank. In the last century, when the Re- 
 
 mondini printing-office in Bassano was 
 
 one of the most considerable in Europe, 
 
 some natives of this valley undertook 
 
 the business of selling books and 
 
 j coloured prints in foreign countries. 
 
 I Starting as hawkers, they spread them- 
 
 j selves over Europe, and many of them 
 
 I established shops in Germany, Russia, 
 
 ! and elsewhere. In course of time other 
 
 j branches of trade were added, and al- 
 
 I though this sort of adventure is less 
 
 } fortunate in the present day, it has not 
 
 ; ceased. Many people of Tesin still seek 
 
 to gain a living in distant countries, 
 
 and some return with an independence 
 
 to close their days in their native valley, 
 
 or in the milder climate of the adjoining 
 
 Val Sugana. The name Tesin properly 
 
 belongs only to the open basin at the 
 
 lower end, where the above-named
 
 462 
 
 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. 
 
 § 59. 
 
 VALLEY OF THE BRENTA. 
 
 villages stand on the scaglia (indiinated 
 marl of the chalk period), with some 
 traces of overlying eocene beds. It will 
 be observed that the depression over 
 which the road from Strigno reaches 
 Tesin extends in the opposite direc- 
 tion (or ESE.) to Lamon, in the valley 
 of the Cismone, and thence to Fonzaso ; 
 while the Grigno torrent, which drains 
 the valley, runs due S. through a narrow 
 cleft in a lofty mass of dolomite rock 
 to Grigno in Val Sugana (Rte. A). By 
 that way, but at a great height above 
 the stream, runs the mule-track to 
 Primolano. 
 
 Above La Pieve the Grigno soon 
 enters the granitic region, whose centre 
 is the Cima d' Asta, and the valley is 
 called Val Malene, until, a i^vi miles 
 farther N., it divides into the two glens 
 of Tolva and Sorgazzo (Rte. H). 
 
 The way to Canal di S. Bovo and 
 Primiero is known as La Strada del 
 Brecon. It is necessary to descend from 
 La Pieve to the rather deep trough 
 which the torrent has excavated in the 
 scaglia, and then follow a rough cart- 
 road along the opposite or 1. bank of 
 the stream, gradually ascending i;ntil, 
 nearly 1 hr. from La Pieve, the track 
 turns NE., away from the valley, and 
 commences the long ascent leading to 
 the pass. The path winds in snake-like 
 fashion along the slopes some vray N. of 
 the summit of Monte Ac/aro, crossing 
 eeveral minor ridges. Not far from the 
 summit refreshments may be found at 
 the Osteria del Brocon. From the sum- 
 mit level of the Brocon (5,994') a great 
 part of the Primiero valley is seen over 
 tlie ridge of the Gobera. The first vil- 
 lage reached is Eonco, whence the track 
 descends to cross the Vanoi ; then 
 mounting the opposite bank, in the fork 
 between that stream and the torrent 
 from Val di Lozem — in 5^ hrs. from La 
 Pieve — the traveller reaches 
 
 Canale (about 2,340'), the principal 
 village in the valley of the Vanoi, locally 
 known as Canal di San Bovo. The inn 
 here has been improved and enlarged. 
 
 If Primiero may be truly called a 
 secluded valley because of the badness 
 
 of the track leading from Zorzoi, the 
 f-ame epithet may still more justly be 
 applied to that of San Bovo. The por- 
 tion extending from Canale to the junc- 
 tion of the Vanoi with the Cismone 
 may be said to be practically impassable. 
 I A wood-cutter's track along the steep 
 I flank of Monte Tatoga is considered to 
 j be dangerous, and there is not, or was 
 j not lately, any bridge whereby to cross 
 either stream near their junction. There 
 is a track by the rt. bank of the Vanoi ; 
 but it is crossed by several unbridged 
 torrents, impassable after rain, and is 
 besides so rough and bad that it is 
 never used save by the inhabitants of 
 two or three scattered houses, or by an 
 occasional smuggler. Communication 
 with Feltre, and with Primiero, is car- 
 ' ried on exclusively by the track crossing 
 i the ridge of La Gobera, while the only 
 j moderately easy way from the W. is 
 I that of the Brocon. For several months 
 in each year these passes lie deep in 
 snow, and exposed to the severity of 
 winter blasts. 
 
 The upper part of the Canale di San 
 Bovo is described in Rte. H. 
 
 The track from Canale to Primiero 
 passes by Trade, only \ m. from the 
 former villages, at the opening of Val di 
 Lozem. Here commences the ascent of 
 the Gobera (3,340'). This is a depres- 
 sion in the range that bounds the valley 
 of the Cismone on the W. side, cor- 
 responding nearly to the junction of the 
 dolomite of Monte Tatoga with the crys- 
 talline slates. The top of the pass is 
 only about 1,000 ft. above the valley on 
 either side. In H hr. from Canale the 
 traveller reaches Tauferi, also called 
 Masi di Imer, and may descend directly 
 to Imer, following a terrace path to the 
 1. that with a slight descent leads to La 
 Fiera, the chief village of Primiero. 
 
 The pedestrian, who can afford a 
 detour of 2 or 3 hrs., instead of keep- 
 ing the ordinary track, should follow 
 the torrent from Prade through Val di 
 Lozem to its source in the Lago di Ca- 
 laita ; and in descending to Siror will 
 enjoy a grand view of the opposite range 
 of dolomite peaks. (See Rte. E.)
 
 BOUTE E. — PASSO DI TOGXOLA. 
 
 46a 
 
 EOUTB H. 
 
 SAN MARTINO DI CASTEOZZA TO BOEGO 
 DI TAL SUGASA. ASCEXT OF THE CIMA 
 d' ASTA. 
 
 The shortest way in time, if not in 
 distance, from the head of the Cismone 
 valley to Borgo di Val Sugana is no 
 doubt that by Primiero, and by the 
 beaten track passing Canale and Tesin, 
 described in the last Ete. The moun- 
 taineer will, however, prefer to take on 
 his way the ascent of the Cima d'Asta, 
 the crowning svmimit of the granitic 
 region on the N. side of Val Sugana. 
 If the height and importance of this 
 mountain have been exaggerated in 
 popular estimation, it yet undoubtedly 
 offers one of the finest panoramic views 
 in this part of the Alps, some fine 
 rugged scenery in its middle region, 
 and some special interest to the geolo- 
 gist and mineralogist. 
 
 The glen leading to the Passo di 
 Tognola (6,654: ?), over which a mode- 
 rately frequented track goes from San 
 Martino di Costrozza to Canale di San 
 Bovo, is well seen to the SW. from the 
 neighbourhood of the hospice, and is 
 marked by a large casera, standing on 
 the summit of the pass. The only pre- 
 caution necessary to find the way is to 
 be careful to cross from the 1. to the rt. 
 bank of the torrent descending from the 
 
 pass by a bridge wliieh will be found a 
 little below the junction of another 
 stream issuing from a more northerly 
 branch of the glen. This latter glen 
 leads also to Caoria, but involves a cir- 
 cuit of 1^ m. In the damp wood through 
 which the torrent brawls, the botanist 
 will notice some British plants not 
 common in the Southern Alps, such as 
 Comarum palustre and Pedicularis pa- 
 histris, with others less rare here, but 
 prized by the British collector, e. g. 
 Moneses grandiflora, Goodyera repens, 
 Care^c capillaris, and Poh/podium rhcB- 
 ticum. Soon after the forest comes to 
 an end the traveller reaches the pass, 
 whereon stands the large Casera di 
 Tognola. The views of the dolomite 
 range are very limited if the pedestrian 
 has kept to the path, but a summit 
 easily reached in ^ h. from the casera 
 (Cima di Tognazzo?) offers a magni- 
 ficent view when the peaks are un- 
 covered. The descent on the SW. side 
 lies through Val Sorda, a glen inha- 
 bited only by a few herdsmen in summer. 
 The upper end is rather dreary, but 
 some fine scenery is traversed during the 
 descent. On reaching the base of the 
 slopes on the 1. side of the valley it is 
 advisable to cross to the rt. bank, where 
 the torrent is swollen by the drainage 
 of a boggy tract. After a considerable 
 i de cent the track passes a casera, de- 
 serted during the hot season, and soon 
 after seems to come to an end on the rt. 
 j bank, in a place where farther progress 
 . is impossible. A wooden bridge has 
 j been swept away, and (in 1867) its 
 \ place was supplied merely by a single 
 ; trunk thrown across the stream, with 
 the untrimmed stumps of the branches 
 sticking out in all directions. A good 
 track is now carried along the 1. bank, 
 I but soon rises to a great height above 
 j the stream. At one place, in the midst 
 ; of a pine-wood, a path descends steeply 
 towards the torrent, and leads to Caoria 
 by the bottom of the valley. The upper 
 track is, on the whole, to be preferred ; 
 it mounts gradually above a wide slope 
 ^ of mountain meadow, and then runs 
 I, nearly at a level along the brow of the
 
 464 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 59. TALLEf OF THE BRENTA, 
 
 mountain, till the traveller finds him- 
 self on a considerable eminence above 
 the Canale di San Bovo, immediately 
 above its highest village. 
 
 Caoria (2,7 11'). The traveller, whose 
 expectations should be slender on reach- 
 ing a spot so completely out of the way 
 of all traffic, will be surprised to find at 
 the house of Lorenzo Pezza, a pros- 
 perous inhabitant of the valley, a clean 
 and comfortable inn, a hospitable re- 
 ception from the host and his daugh- 
 ters, with extremely moderate charges. 
 Butcher's meat is not common in such 
 a place ; but fowls, eggs, fresh butter, 
 and potatoes, ought to satisfy his wants. 
 Trout from the neighbouring lake some- 
 times complete the entertainment. Cao- 
 ria is connected with Canale (see last 
 Kte.), about 5 m. distant, by a narrow 
 but tolerable road, which is continued 
 some way up the valley, in the opposite 
 direction, for the conveyance of timber. 
 charcoal, butter, and other produce of 
 the neighbouring mountains. 
 
 At the head of the valley, the prin- 
 cipal source of the Vanoi, rising on the 
 W. side of the Cima d'Asta, flows to NE., 
 and curves gradually so as to describe 
 a semicircle round the N. side of that 
 mountain. The uppermost segment is 
 called Vol da ; the next portion, for 
 about 5 m. above Caoria, is called Val 
 Caoria ; and it is only below that village, 
 where it takes a nearly direct course to 
 SSE., that the valley assumes the name 
 Ca?ial di San Bovo. The traveller will 
 be surprised to behold a large lake, more 
 than a mile in length, lying half-way 
 in the valley between Caoria and Canale, 
 which is not to be found (so far as the 
 writer knows) on any map, and is not 
 mentioned in guide-books, even so recent 
 and so complete as the second edition of 
 Schaubach.* It owes its origin to a 
 series of great landslips, which com- 
 menced in 1819, reached a climax in 
 1823, and continued with diminished 
 force during several subsequent years. 
 The debris borne down from the flanks 
 
 « It is referred to by Messrs. Gilbert and 
 Churcliiil.— ' The Dolomite Mountains,' p. 461. 
 
 of the valley dammed the stream of the 
 Vanoi, and formed the lake. A flood, 
 accompanying the berg- fall of 1823 
 quite destroyed Canale di Sopra, enu- 
 merated by Schaubach among the ex- 
 isting villages of the valley. 
 
 A chamois hunter of Caoria (name 
 forgotten), well acquainted with the Cima 
 d'Asta, acts as guide, and his services 
 would be almost essential to anyone 
 wishing to ascend the mountain by one 
 side, and descend by the other; but, 
 with fine weather, a moderate moun- 
 taineer will have no difficulty in com- 
 bining the ascent with his day's walk to 
 Tesin, in case (as happened to the 
 writer) the aid of a guide should not be 
 available. For about 3 m. from Caoria 
 the way lies up the main valley ; at first 
 by the rt. bank, afterwards by the op- 
 posite side. Near the second bridge 
 over the Vanoi the writer found two 
 specimens of the rare little fern Botry- 
 chmm matricarioides. Avoiding a track 
 laid down on several maps, the traveller 
 should not quit the main valley till he 
 reaches a wooden bridge just ahove the 
 junction of the torrent from Val Ecgann. 
 A tolerable path mounts a rather steep 
 declivity, partly grown over with pine 
 and beech-wood, till it attains the first 
 step in the wild and picturesque glen of 
 Eegana. A first casera, empty in sum- 
 mer, is passed, and then another ascent 
 leads to the upper alp, with a small 
 casera, about 2\ hrs. from Caoria. 
 
 Val Regana mounts nearly due S. to 
 the Passo di Eegana, a depression on the 
 E. side of the Cima d'Asta, at the head 
 of Val Tolva, the eastern branch of Val 
 Malene. The great granite ribs of the 
 Cima d'Asta descend steeply into the 
 head of Val Regana, but between them 
 are two lateral openings, the first of 
 which, though tempting, is to be avoided. 
 The true course for the ascent of the 
 mountain is to follow the rough and 
 faintly marked track leading up towards 
 the pass, as far as the foot of the last 
 slope, where the head of the valley is 
 completely covered by the debris fallen 
 from the surrounding heights. A Icvr 
 face of granite rock, like the wall of a
 
 ROUTE H. — CIMA D ASTA. 
 
 4^5 
 
 email houve, marlcs the most convenient 
 *;pot for commencing the as-cent. On 
 the rt. side of it is a faintly marked 
 gojit-track, for goats here monopolise 
 the higher pastures. The ascent is now 
 straight forwai-d, steep throughout, but 
 nowhere difficult ; and aftfr a climb of 
 about 2,o00 ft., the traveller reaches the 
 verge of the basin whicli occupies the 
 upper level of the mountain on this side. 
 It presents a scene of the wildest cha- 
 racter. Bare rock, and large patches of 
 snow, occupy the surface, and around 
 the Imsin rise the topmost ridges of the 
 mountain. At the first moment a stran- 
 ger may hesitate in his choice between 
 3 peaks, of nearly equal apparent 
 height ; but before long he will ascer- 
 tain that the centre one of the three 
 •considerably overtops its rivals. Its 
 surface is covered from the top to its 
 base with large granite blocks lying at 
 a high angle, but with moderate caution 
 there is no difficulty in the ascent, and 
 in 4 hrs.' moderate walking from the 
 casera, the traveller will reach the 
 summit. 
 
 The measures of the height given 
 on different authorities differ widely. 
 That of the Austrian 'Kataster' is 
 9,337 Eng. ft.; but Herr Trinker, the 
 most competent authority, prefers the 
 result found by Weiss— 9,132 ft. The 
 view is at once very extensive and inte- 
 resting ; nearly all the higher peaks of 
 the dolomite region aie well seen. 
 Among the more distant summits, the 
 Sorapis — more commonly known as 
 Crodn Malcora — is consyjicuous, and be- 
 yond the limits of S. Tyrol some peaks 
 of the High Tauern range, especially 
 the Gross Venediger. Of the nearer 
 mountains the most remarkable is the 
 j-(icrrr,'d range of porphyritic summits 
 dividing the V.-^l di Fiemme from the 
 tributaries of the Brenta. Immediately 
 round the base of the mountain the 
 spectator looks down upon several com- 
 paratively broad and open valleys, partly 
 covered vrith forest, with wide patches 
 of open pasture. Here and th^re some 
 distant casera may be descried, but it 
 \rill appear strange that no village or 
 
 6. T, H 
 
 hamlet is in sight nearer than Casteilo 
 di Tesin, fully 10 m. distant as the bird 
 flies. There is scarcely another instance 
 in the Alps of a district at least 20 m. 
 in length, by 15 m. in breadth, tra- 
 versed by many comparatively deep and 
 not unproductive valleys, wherein there 
 is not a single hamlet, and scarcely a 
 permanent dwelling. The thinness of 
 the population has tended to the preser- 
 vation of bears, and many other wild 
 animals, and has favoured the growth of 
 legendary stories, and fanciful tales. 
 wherein this mountain has played a 
 similar part to that of the Untersberg 
 in the Salzburg countiy. 
 
 In viewing the mountain from its 
 highest peak the horse- shoe form attri- 
 buted to it by a writer in the new edition 
 of Schaubach is seen to be an illusion. 
 The summit lies at about the meeting- 
 point of many ridges that converge to- 
 wards this as a centre. Those who 
 approach it from one or the other side 
 are apt to leave out of account the por- 
 tion that remains unseen. From the 
 topmost ridge the traveller looks down 
 on two small lakes or tarns, which re- 
 main half frozen and partly covered 
 with unmelted snow late in July. It is 
 obvious that a slight fall in the mean 
 temperature, which would permit the 
 accumulation of neve in the basin on 
 the side of Val Regana, would soon give 
 rise to a considerable glacier. The W. 
 face of the peak seems to be the steepest, 
 and though a descent may probably be 
 effected, the prospect did not appear 
 certain. If accompanied by a guide, the 
 traveller will naturally descend towards 
 Tesin by Val Sorgazza, the W. branch 
 of Val Malene ; but if alone, he might 
 lose much precious time in seeking the 
 way. 
 
 Tlie beautiful Primula glutinosa ig 
 extremely abundant, but the flora of the 
 mountain is singularly poor. Scarcely 
 a dozen species of flowering plants are 
 to be found on the peak. 
 
 The granite of Cima d' Asta is fine 
 grained, and very unlike that of western 
 Tyrol. In some places it is traversed 
 by veins of dark rock resembling ser-
 
 466 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 59. VALLEY OF THE BRENTA. 
 
 pontine (?). Fine cn-stals of quarts and , 
 garnets are found here. j 
 
 About 2|- lirs. suffice to descend from | 
 the summit to the Pas.w di Regana. \ 
 This commands a fine, though limited, ^ 
 view. The valley of the Grigno stretches ' 
 southward in a straight line, backed by \ 
 the mountains of the Sette Comuni. 
 
 Little more than h hr. suffices to reach 
 the Malga di Tolva, where a crust of 
 bread preserved in the traveller's pocket 
 is converted into a delicate luxury by | 
 excellent milk and butter. Thencefor- 
 ward for many miles the path lies by | 
 the E. or 1. hand bank of the upper 
 valley — locally called Val Tolva — usu- | 
 ally at some distance from the torrent. I 
 The scenery is agreeable, and the path \ 
 pleasant, being unusually free from | 
 stones. At about frds of the way to | 
 Tesin the stream from Yal Sorgazza 
 joins that from Val Tolva, and the val- 
 ley is thenceforward called Val Malene. 
 A new cart-road is being carried along 
 the 1. bank of the stream. At a place 
 where this road is connected by a 
 wooden bridge with a similar road along 
 the opposite bank, the traveller, if bound 
 for La Pieve. should cross to the rt. 
 bank. The road now gradually rises 
 above the bed of the stream, and, having 
 entered the zone of secondary rocks, 
 winds round several ravines cut by tor- 
 rents in the yielding strata. The villages 
 of Castello and Cinte are seen from a 
 distance, but it is only after crossing a 
 tract of level cultivated ground, and 
 turning sharply to the rt., behind a spur 
 of the mountain which screens the vil- 
 lai^e from the N., that the traveller, in 
 3 hrs.' steady walking from the Pass of 
 Eegana, reaches La Pieve di Tesin 
 (Rte. G). 
 
 In case clouds, that too often hang 
 roimd the mountain tops, should dis- 
 suade the traveller from undertaking the 
 ascent of the Cima d'Asta, he may enjoy 
 a very agreeable walk from Caoria to 
 Borgo di Yal Sugana, or to Tesin, by 
 following the stream of the Vanoi to its 
 head in Val Cia. This route to Borgo 
 may easily be taken on horseback by a 
 iady who does not object to a ride of 8 
 
 or 9 hrs. As already mentioned, the 
 Vanoi, in its course from the head of Val 
 Cia to Caoria, describes a semicircle 
 round the Cima d' Asta as its centre. 
 This form of the valley gives much 
 variety to the views that are gained on 
 the way. Starting in a NW. direction, 
 the traveller finds himself facing nearly 
 due S. when, after a long but gradual 
 ascent, he attains the head of the valley, 
 between the stern granitic rocks of tho" 
 Cima d' Asta and the rugged porph\Titic 
 mass of the Cvna di Lagorei (8,574'). 
 Here he has a choice between two paths, 
 one lying to the rt., and the other to the 
 1., of the granitic summit named Centello, 
 which rises directly in front. The more 
 frequented, and by far the easier way, 
 is that to the rt., leading over an easy 
 pass to the glen of Conseria. The track 
 lies over crystalline slate, which is here 
 interposed between the granite mass of 
 Cima d' Asta and the porphyry range of 
 Lagorei and Montalon. 
 
 Val Conseria is one of several minor 
 glens whose waters unite to form the 
 Maso torrent, which joins the Brenta 
 about 2 m. E. of Borgo. The first tor- 
 rent which joins that of Conseria issues 
 from a short glen (named Val Sorda) 
 that drains the S. side of Cima di 
 Lagorei, and the E. side of the neigh- 
 bouring summit of Montalon, a moun- 
 tain which has yielded many rare plants 
 to the diligent investigation of Dr. 
 Ambrosi of Trent. The next affluent on 
 the E. side descends from the mountain 
 named Ciolara. Below the junction the 
 valley takes the name Val di Campelle, 
 which it retains only till, about 4 m. 
 lower down, it joins tlie considerable 
 torrent that descends to SE. from Val 
 Calamento (Rte. I ), and the track from 
 that valley joins our path. A humble 
 mountain inn stands at Pont ar so, the 
 spot where the paths meet. Thence a 
 beaten track runs along the rt. bank of 
 the Maso torrent. The shortest way to 
 Borgo is by Ttive, a village mentioned 
 in Rte. A. 
 
 The track that mounts SE. from the 
 head of the Val Cia to a pass between 
 the Centello and Cima d' Asta descends
 
 ROUTE I. — MONTALON. 
 
 467 
 
 to Tesin through Val Sorgazza, the E. 
 branch of Val Malene. The scenery is 
 fine, but the path is rough, and said to 
 be fie only for practised mountaineers. 
 
 Route I. 
 
 BOEGO DI VAL SUGANA TO CAVALESE 
 IN VAL DI FIEMME. 
 
 Most travellers who unite a visit to 
 the valleys of Fiemme and Fassa (de- 
 scribed in the next §) with Val Sugana 
 and the Sette Coniuni, follow the new 
 road from Cavelese to Neumarkt, and 
 thence go by rail to Trent, and by the 
 high-road to Borgo, described in Ete. 
 A. There are, however, several easy 
 passes which enable the pedestrian to 
 go in one day from Borgo to Cavalese, 
 and others connecting that place, or 
 Predazzo, with Caoria. The attrac- 
 tions of agreeable scenery are increased 
 in the case of those who may take an 
 interest in the geological structure of 
 the country, or in its rich and varied 
 flora. 
 
 We give here a brief notice of the 
 more frequented paths. 
 
 1. Bi/ the Forcella di Cadino. This, 
 the most direct way from Borgo to 
 Cavalese, is reached through the Val di 
 Calamento. The way to it is by Telve, 
 and thence by the track along the rt. 
 bank of the Maso, mentioned in the last 
 Ete., to the Osteria di Pontarso. The 
 
 I path there leaves the northern branch 
 j (or Val Campelle) to the rt., and for 
 about 2 hrs. follows a direction near 
 due NW. through Val di Calamento. 
 On the way is the Osteria di Pupille 
 (4,087')) another humble mountain inn, 
 opened in summer to supply refresh- 
 ment to wayfarers. At its head the 
 glen bends round to AV., and ultimately 
 to WSW. If he were to follow the 
 track over the ridge in that direction 
 the traveller would reach the head of 
 the valley of the Fersina (Ete. A), lo- 
 cally named Palu, The way to Fiemme 
 is by a path that mounts NW. to the 
 Forcella di Cadino (6,712'), a depression 
 in the range connecting the Cima di 
 Ciolara on the rt., with the Pizzo Croce 
 to the 1. From the summit the Val di 
 Cadino extends nearly due N. to its 
 junction with the Val di Fiemme. An- 
 other osteria, at a spot named Tabiai, 
 is found about half'way down the Val 
 di Cadino. The path is on the rt. side 
 of the torrent, and on reaching the 
 junction of the latter with the Avisio, 
 it turns to the rt. and keeps to the S. 
 side of the main valley till, after pass- 
 ing the opening of Val di Moena, it 
 descends to a bridge over the Avisio 
 just below Cavalese, which is reached 
 in 10 hrs. from Borgo. 
 
 2. B^ Montalon. As mentioned in 
 the last Ete., Montalon is a porphyritic 
 summit, rising SW. of the Cima di 
 Lagorei, remarkable for its rich, and 
 varied flora. The botanist will not 
 find time to examine it carefully in the 
 course of a long day's walk, but will be 
 tempted to seek night-quarters in some 
 neighbouring casera. The ordinary 
 traveller may choose this way for the 
 sake of a route, somewhat more labo- 
 rious than that by Cadino, but certainly 
 more interesting. 
 
 The way follows the northern branch 
 of the Maso torrent through Val Cam- 
 pelle (see last Etc.), and instead of 
 turning to NE. through Val Conseria, 
 to reach the pass leading to Caoria, 
 mounts through Val Sorda (not to be 
 I confused with the more important glen 
 I of that name NE. of Caoria). The 
 h2
 
 '468 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. i> 59. VALLEY OF THE BBENTA. 
 
 summit of Montalon (about 8,300'?) ) 
 lies to the 1. in ascending the glen. On j 
 attaining it the traveller may choose be- 
 tween a longer, but rather easier, way, 
 which descends through Val di Shiato 
 to join Val di Cadino about 2 hrs. 
 above its junction with Val di Fiemme, 
 or a rougher, but shorter way, through 
 l^al di Mohia. This glen may be 
 reached directly by the track which 
 mounts through Val Sorda, leaving to 
 the 1. hand the summit of Montalon. 
 
 3. By the Passo di Sadole. The tra- 
 veller who is willing to give two days 
 for the walk from Borgo to Predazzo in 
 Val di Fiemme may best proceed on the 
 first day to Caoria, by some one of the 
 paths mentioned in Rtes. G- and H. 
 From that place he may reach Predazzo 
 in 6 hrs. by the Passo di Sadole (6,785'). 
 He follows the track along the Vanoi 
 for about l^- hr. above Caoria, till he 
 reaches the opening of Val Fossemico, 
 a lateral glen through which a torrent 
 descends from the Pizso di Val Maor. 
 From hence the path to Sadole ascends 
 in a northerly direction, and is said to 
 be practicable for beasts of burthen. 
 Instead of descending directly to Pre- 
 dazzo, a path may be taken which winds 
 round to the westward, and descends 
 into Val CavUlonte, one of the tributary 
 glens of Val di Fiemme, which opens 
 into that valley about half-way between 
 Cavalese and Predazzo. A mineral 
 spring in Val Cavillonte has of late ac- 
 quired local reputation, and is much 
 visited by people from the neighbouring 
 valleys. The accommodation is said to 
 be rough, but it may be found conveni- 
 ent head-quarters for a naturalist wish- 
 ing to explore the neighbouring range 
 of porphyry mountains. 
 
 The winter has no information re- 
 specting another pass from Caoria to 
 Fiemme which lies on the E. side of the 
 Pizzo di A'"al Maor. It is considerably 
 longer than the path by Sadole, and ap- 
 pears to be rarely used. 
 
 Route K. 
 
 pbimiero to agoej>0, by the pass© 
 bella cereda, 
 
 In theprecedingroTit®stheebiefroad» 
 and paths leading intothis district from 
 the N., W., and S. sides have been de- 
 scribed. It now remains ta notice th» 
 passes connecting it with the beautiful 
 valley of the Cordevole, described in 
 §61. The account of this -jroite in the 
 earlier editions of this work was based 
 on erroneous information, which has 
 been corrected by obliging correspon- 
 dents. 
 
 For about 20 minutes, the track fpcm 
 Primiero follows the branch of the- 
 Cismone that descends from Val di 
 Canale — passing Tonadtgo, with two or 
 three poor-looking inns. A short vay 
 beyond that village the remarkable 
 castle of La Pietra, already visible 
 from Primiero, is seen near at hand. 
 It is diiScult by description to give Xhj» 
 effect of this singular pile, perched on 
 the summit of a rock, and so completely 
 isolated that it has long ceased to be 
 accessible. The object sought by castle- 
 builders in general has here, with the 
 assistance of the natural decay of the 
 rock, been attained too completely. 
 Some 30 years ago. Count Welsberg, 
 the owner of the castle, succeeded with 
 the help of ladders in effecting an en- 
 trance ; but since that date it has been 
 finally abandoned. Just under the crag 
 on which the castle is built, the very 
 stony track leading to the pass turns 
 away nearly due W. from the Val di 
 Canale. The ascent is not long, but 
 rather uninteresting ; and it is with 
 satisfaction that the traveller finds 
 himself at the top of the Passo della 
 Cereda (4,503'). Near the summit there 
 is a choice between two paths both lead- 
 ing to Agordo. The way to the 1. goes 
 by Sagron, and is somewhat shorter ; 
 that to the rt. passes by Grosaldo, and is 
 the more interesting. The undulating 
 ground over which the winding track is 
 carried does not slope towards Agordo, 
 as might be expected ; and the drainage
 
 ROUTE L. PASSO DELLE CORNELLE. 
 
 469 
 
 is carried southward through the Mis 
 torrent to join the Piave near Bribano. 
 Jt is cha^acte^l!^tic of the structure of 
 the Dolomite Alps that so low a pass 
 should be found in the immediate neigh- 
 bourhood of sucli lofty peaks ; for the 
 Sasso di Campo on the N., and II Piz on 
 the S., must both approach near to the 
 limit of 10,000 ft. After passing Go- 
 saldo the path begins to mount toNNE., 
 lo pass a second low col between the 
 Monte Luna and the Gardellon, two 
 prominent points in the ridge projecting 
 from the Sasso di Campo and thence 
 descends into the glen of the Sarzana 
 torrent to reach Frasstne (3,612'). The 
 walnut extends up to the level of the 
 latter village. The track then keeps to 
 the I. bank of the Sarzana, passes Vol- 
 tago and descends to a bridge over the 
 Cordevole abnut | m. from Agordo. 
 
 The other track descends gently from 
 the Passo del la Cereda to Sagron, and 
 then by a steep and rough path (not 
 good fur ladies to ride) down to the 
 quicksilver mines. For about I5 m. 
 below the mines the track descends 
 along the Mis till that torrent turns 
 abruptly to ESE. to join the Cordevole 
 near the opening of the Canal di Agordo 
 (§ 61, Rte. C). At this point a short 
 tributary glen descends from the NE. to 
 join the main valley of the Mis. The 
 name Val hnperina is sometimes given 
 to this glen, and sumetimes, more cor- 
 rectly, to that which on the opposite side 
 of the ridge descends (^.Iso due NE.) 
 towards the Cordevole. The path lies 
 above the rt. bank of the first-mentioned 
 torrent to the ridge dividing it from 
 Val Imperina, and then descends by the 
 hamlet of Piiva, and bearing nearly due 
 N., takes the traveller down to the high 
 road close to the Ponte Alto about 1 m. 
 from Agordo. The way by Sagron is 
 reckoned 7 hrs. walking, and that by 
 Gosaldo from \ hr. to 1 hr. more. 
 
 [By far the most interesting way for 
 a mountaineer going from Primiero to 
 Agordo is by the Val di Canale, and the 
 pass at its head — called by Mr. Tuckett, 
 Passo di Canale. It was first crossed by 
 Mr. Tuckett, who was benighted on the 
 
 S. side, and recently (1872) by Mr. 
 Holzmann, whose accurate notes are 
 here used. In 1| hr. from Pi-imiero the 
 last sennhutten in Val di Canale are 
 reached. Keeping first for ^ hr. close to 
 the 1. bank, and then for 1 hr. chiefly 
 by the E. slope of the glen, the travel- 
 ler attains the highest shepherd's hut. 
 A steep ascent of 40 min. nearly dueN. 
 and then for 25 min. more neariy NW. 
 leads to the summit of the pass, lying 
 between the Sasso di Campo (or Croda 
 Grande) and the Cima di Canale. This 
 overlooks the head of the Val d'Angoraz, 
 the uppermost southern tributary of the 
 Val di San Lucano. As the direct de- 
 scent appears impracticable the way now 
 bears to the W., and then turns towards 
 the N. to reach a depression in a ridjre 
 projecting from the Coston di Miel — 
 150 ft. higher than the actual pass. 
 Erom this point the last-named peak, 
 commanding a very wide view, may be 
 climbed in less than 1 hr., going and 
 returning. The descent from the de- 
 pression above mentioned is at first N., 
 then bearing towards E., and in 1^ hr. 
 from the summit attains a small green 
 plain, below which is a faintly trace<i 
 path. H hr. more suffices to reach the 
 opening of Val d'Angoraz, and to meet 
 the track descending from the Forcella 
 Gesiirette leading to the Val delle Cor- 
 nelle. The Val di San Lucano is 
 entered a little above Pra. A beaten 
 track then leads in 1 7 hr. to Taibon, in 
 the valley of the Cordevole, 25 min. 
 above Agordo. See § 61, Rte. C] 
 
 EOUTE L. 
 
 SAN MARTINO DI CASTROZZA TO CEN'- 
 
 CENIGHE. 
 
 The hunters of Primiero have long 
 been aware of the possibility of attain- 
 ing the ridge connecting the Cimon della 
 Pala with the Cima della Rosetta, at a 
 point ENE. of S. Martino di Castrozza. 
 They now and then eff ct a passage from 
 thence to the head of Val di Canale, by 
 the N. side of the Palle di San Martino, 
 and so return to Primiero. The prac- 
 ticability of effecting a pass over the
 
 470 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 59. VALLEY OF THE BRENTA. 
 
 game ridge from San Martino to Gares 
 and Cencenighe was first established, as 
 the writer believes, in 1865, by Mr. 
 Tuckett, who then crossed with several 
 companions, and recrossed from the Cen- 
 cenighe side in 1867. The writer has 
 been on the snmmit of the ridge in un- 
 favourable weather, but saw enough to 
 make him agree with Mr. Tuckett's de- 
 81 g nation of this as a ' most romantic 
 pa.^sj The name Passo delle Cornelle was 
 suggested by the name of the glen lead- 
 ing thence to Gares, which the writer 
 willingly adopts in the absence of any 
 recognised local name. Mr. Tuckett 
 estimates the height at 9,150 ft., but 
 the writer ventures to think this esti- 
 mate too high by 150 or 200 ft. This 
 excursion, though it involves some rough 
 walking, is quite free from difficulty to 
 any practised mountaineer, and requires 
 Ijut a moderate day's walk. The dis- 
 tances may be reckoned 3^ hrs. from 
 San Martino to the summit ; 3 hrs. 
 thence to Gares ; and 2\ hrs. from 
 Gares to Cencenighe— all exclusive of 
 halts. The way from San Martino to 
 the summit is sufficiently obvious to any 
 mountaineer, and the only hint required 
 is to keep well to Ihe 1. close to the pre- 
 cipitous rocks that extend nearly to the 
 summit of the pass. A sort of track 
 will be found, except towards the top, 
 as sheep climb up to seek shelter from 
 the noon-day sun. The summit is a 
 comparatively broad ridge marked by a 
 stone-man raised by Mr. Tuckett's party. 
 Jt produces a considerable number of 
 Alpine plants, all reduced to the most 
 stunted proportions. With regard to 
 the NE. side of the pass, the reader will 
 be glad to have the following note, with 
 which the writer was favoured by Mr. 
 Tuckett, who describes the ascent from 
 Cencenighe by Forvo di Canale, in Val 
 di Biois (§ 60, Kte. E). In case of need, 
 a decent country inn is found at Forno. 
 ' A good broad track leads gently up, 
 in about 1^ hr., from Forno di Canale 
 to Gat-es. A little farther up, after 
 traversing some broken ground and a 
 wood, the stream (which is seen in front 
 pouring in a fine cascade from the 
 
 narrow gorge giving admittance to this 
 Val delle Cornelle) is crossed to its rt. 
 bank by a bridge. The path (improved 
 in 1867) zigzags up the face of the 
 mountain till it reaches the level of a 
 ledge, and then, turning to the rt., 
 passes along the latter till the moxtth of 
 the ravine is reached (| hr. from Gares), 
 immediately above the point where the 
 torrent takes its final leap. Crossing 
 the stream, the way lies by a new path 
 along the 1. bank of Val delle Cornelle, 
 among masses of debris which in some 
 places almost choke the gorge, to a level, 
 torrent-ravaged, and desolate-looking 
 plain (1^ hr. above Gares). An excel- 
 lent spring on the W. side of this hollow, 
 at the foot of the slopes of the Plan di 
 Camp'ulo (a mountain NE. of the Cimon 
 della Pala), affl)rds a good halting-place 
 for lunch. Looking back, the valley of 
 Gares, set as in a frame between the 
 frowning portals of the Val delle Cor- 
 nelle, forms a striking and beautiful 
 picture. To the plain succeeds a series 
 of steep gorges alternating with small 
 terraces, until, in 1^- hr., the valley 
 widens out considerably somewhat be- 
 low the junction of its two uppermost 
 branches, separated by a spur from the 
 Palle di San Martino, which mount re- 
 spectively to SE. and SW. By traversing 
 the open space diagonally to its W. side 
 and following the latter branch, which 
 is very narrow, and bounded by cliffs of 
 moderate height, the broad plateau 
 forming the watershed is gained with- 
 out difficulty.' [F.F.T.] 
 
 In descending towards Gares it is best 
 to keep as near as possible to the bed of 
 thegorge. Avoid a cattle-track that bears 
 to the 1. a little above the desolate plain 
 mentioned by Mr. Tuckett. The Cima di 
 Rosetta, a prominent point in the range 
 S. of the Passo delle Cornelle, and com- 
 manding a very fine view, is easily acces- 
 sible in 20 min. from the top of the pass. 
 
 A traveller bound for Agordo need 
 not descend to Cencenighe. A little 
 above Gares a path mounts to SE. lead- 
 ing to a pass called Forcella Gesurette, 
 at the head of the Val di Sanbucano, 
 which opens at Taibon near Agordo. ■■
 
 THE DOLOMITE ALPS OF SOUTH TYROL. 
 
 -Ml 
 
 mffmv^
 
 §60. 
 
 FASSA DISTRICT. 
 
 471 
 
 SECTION 60. 
 
 FASSA DISTRICT. 
 
 While the district surrounding Pri- 
 miero, described in the last section, and 
 many of the most beautiful tributary 
 valleys of the Piave, noticed in § 61, 
 are even now known to but few travel- 
 lers, it has been the fortune of the region 
 whose centre is the valley of Fassa, to 
 have attracted at an early period the 
 attention of men of science, and of not 
 a, few other visitors. Although the latter 
 includes some amongst the grandest and 
 most impressive scenes of the Dolomite 
 Alps, it certainly does not in this respect 
 surpass the adjoining districts men- 
 tioned above. Yet (so imperfectly were 
 the Alps known until very recently) it 
 was supposed that the dolomite scenery 
 deserving a travellers attention was 
 confined to a small portion of the dis- 
 trict now to be described. The key to 
 its topography is to be found in the 
 course of the Avisio torrent, fully 60 m. 
 in length from its chief source N. of the 
 Marmolata to its confluence ^vith the 
 Adige near Lavis. Within that space 
 the valley is known by three different 
 names, and is spoken of as if di"\nded I 
 into three distinct valleys. The upper- I 
 most is Val di Fassa, or Fassatkaf, the 
 middle part is Val di Fiemme, or F7eim- ' 
 
 I Val Cembra it is about SSW., or nearly 
 l)arallel to the adjoining track of the 
 i Adige, until it approaches Lavis, when 
 J it turns WSW. to join the latter river. 
 In its long course the A\nsio receives 
 but two considerable torrents through 
 the lateral valleys of Travignolo and 
 San Pelegrino, the other tributaries issue 
 from short lateral glens, or hollows, iu 
 the mountains that enclose the main 
 valley. 
 
 Westwaixl and northward of the val- 
 leys of Fiemme and Fassa, a rather 
 extensive mountain district, including 
 some of the most interesting scenery of 
 this region, extends towards the Adige 
 and the Eisack. This tract also is 
 drained by short and inconsiderable 
 streams, there being but two lateral 
 valleys of any consequence — the Kar- 
 neidthal and Grrodneilhal — on the way 
 from Lavis to Brixen, a distance of 
 nearly 70 ra. Besides the basin of the 
 Avisio, and the country lying between 
 it and the Adige and Eisack, we also 
 include in this section the Gaderthal, or 
 Abteithal, with the tract lying iu the rt. 
 angle formed by that valley and the 
 Grrodnerthal. The boundaries of this 
 district are therefore easily traced. It 
 includes the basin of the Avisio and the 
 adjoining region drained by the Rienz, 
 Eisack, and Adige, between Bruneek 
 and Lavis, and on the E. is limited by 
 the valley of the Cordevole, 
 
 It wordd exceed the bounds of this 
 work, even though the writer should 
 feel himself competent to the t<isk, to 
 discuss the many intricate questions that 
 have been suggested by the singular geo- 
 logical structure of this region. In ad- 
 joining districts reference has been fre- 
 quently made to the appearance here 
 and there of eruptive igneous rocks, but 
 there is no part of the Alps where the 
 phenomena connected with ancient vol- 
 canic action can be studied on so great 
 a scale as here. It is clear that this 
 continued for a long period (even long 
 in geological language) to be a centre of 
 
 serthal, and the lower end is called Val \ volcanic action ; and some progress has 
 CemJ)ra, or Zimmcrtlial . The course of j been made towards establishing the 
 the Avisio is mainly SW. or W,, but in i sequence of igneous rocks originating at
 
 472 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § (.0. FASSA DLSTPJCT. 
 
 fcuccessive periods of eruptive activity 
 The labours of two generations of geo- 
 logists have resulted in the overthrow 
 of the theoretic views of one of the 
 earliest, and the ablest, of the writers 
 in tliis district — the late Leopold von 
 Buoh, The most complete account of 
 the geologj- of this region is found in 
 the important work by Kichthofen, men- 
 tioned in the introduction to this work. 
 The writer may venture to say here 
 that the important part attributed by 
 many modem writers to the granitic 
 mass of the Cima d' Asta in regard to 
 the orography and geologica,! history 
 of this and the adjoining district of Val 
 Sugana, appears to rest upon very ques- 
 tionable theoretic views ; and that the 
 existence of two defined axes of elevation 
 — one running from N. to S., the other 
 from E^iE. to WSW. — and supposed 
 to intersect in the, so-called, Sella Pla- 
 teau, is by no means clearly established. 
 The writer has throughout this work 
 pointed out those broad features in the 
 orography of the Alpine region, that 
 appear to him to prove irrefragably the 
 existence of forces acting on a great 
 scale upon the earth's crust; but in the 
 region now described the indications of 
 such action seem to him to be com- 
 pletely masked by local phenomena, ex- 
 hibited on a gigantic scale. Besides the 
 prodigious mass of eruptive rocks, pro- 
 perly so called, of which the red por- 
 phyry forms the larger portion — con- 
 stituting the ranges that enclose the 
 lower part of the valley of the Avisio, 
 and extending in one direction beyond 
 Botzen, on the other to the head of Val 
 Sugana — the part played by so sub- 
 ordinate a constituent as mere volcanic 
 ashes and scoriae excites wonder by the 
 vastness of its volume. The greater 
 part has been more or less consolidated 
 by aqueous action into tufa beds which 
 are often 2,000 ft. in thickness. But 
 in the more elevated positions, where 
 the materials have not undergone the 
 prolonged action of water, the eifect of 
 weathering is to bring back the surface 
 to its original condition. There are spots 
 where the traveller, fixing his eyes only 
 
 I on the objects immediately surrounding 
 I him, can scarcely believe that he is not 
 I ascending the cone of a modern volcano, 
 i Several of the highest dolomite peaks of 
 i this region stand round the head of the 
 I Val di Fassa, yet the traveller, whose 
 ; curiosity and interest are mainly di- 
 j rected to these, will be disappointed to 
 find that they are visible only from 
 ^ comparatively few spots in the main 
 valley. Although scenery of the highest 
 order is close at hand, there is no place 
 in the valley offering views at all equal 
 to those found at many places more 
 easy of access in the adjoining districts. 
 An active traveller will, however, not 
 object to gain the most varied enjoy- 
 ment of grand scenery at the cost of" a 
 little labour, but it must be owned that 
 the chief attractions of the valleys of 
 Fassa and Fiemme are for the lover uf 
 natural science. If this be to the geo- 
 logist a battle-ground, rendered classical 
 by the importance of the questions dis- 
 puted, and of the combatants, it is the 
 Eldorado of the mineralogist, the bo- 
 tanist, and the entomologist. Of thcj 
 many rare minerals it is usually pos- 
 sible to purchase fine specimens atPre- 
 dazzo and elsewhere. 
 
 The flora of this and the neighbour- 
 ing valleys has been investigated by an 
 indefatigable native botanist, the late 
 Dr. Facchini, and by many scientific 
 visitors. Dr. Ambrosi, of Trent, the 
 possessor of the herbarium of Facchini, 
 will, it is hoped, complete our know- 
 ledge of it, by terminating his Flora 
 del Tirolo Meridionale, of which two 
 volumes have already appeared, unfor- 
 tunately in a form too bulky to be con- 
 venient to the traveller. 
 
 The comparatively frequent visits of 
 strangers have led the inn-keepers in 
 Fassa and Fiemme to adapt their prices* 
 to the supposed means of visitors, rather 
 than to the ordinary rates of South 
 T}Tol. A traveller remaining some 
 days should make a distinct agreement 
 as to prices. 
 
 Lying along or near to the frontier, 
 between the* German and Italian races, 
 the population here is of mixed origia» 
 
 1
 
 ROUTE A. — VALLEYS OF FIEMME AND FASSA. 
 
 478 
 
 In the main valley the Italian tongue 
 prevails, even among people of German 
 descent. In most of the short glens 
 that fall towards the Adige, and all 
 those that are drained into the Eisack 
 and the Eienz, the German element 
 prevails. To this there is a remarkable 
 exception in the Grodnerthal (Kte. G), 
 and the adjoining parts of the Gaderthal, 
 ■where a population of southern origin 
 has retained a dialect having much 
 affinity with the Eomantsch of the E. 
 of Switzerland, being based upon Latin, 
 though very unlike any existing Italian 
 dialect. 
 
 The best head -quarters in the main 
 valley are found at Predazzo, \ igo, and 
 Campidello — the latter being superior 
 in point of scenery, quite sufficiently 
 comfortable. Tolerably good quarters, 
 though rather rough, are found at 
 Ratzes and Seiss. Accommodation of 
 a humble kind is also found in several 
 villages in the Grodnerthal and Gader-» 
 thai, but St. Cassian, which is as 
 attractive a place to the paleontologist 
 as Predazzo is to the mineralogist, is 
 yery ill provided. 
 
 It is now pretty generally known that 
 the crowning summit of the Dolomite 
 Alps is the Marmolata, but its height 
 is far from being exactly determineci. 
 (See the ascent of that mountain in Rte. 
 A.) The other dolomite peaks belong- 
 ing to this district are surpassed by 
 many of those of Primiero and the 
 Ampezzo district. The most noticeable 
 are the Langkofel (10,392') and the 
 Rosengarten (10,163'). 
 
 The map prefixed to this section is 
 founded on imperfect materials ; none 
 other being available for some portions 
 of the district included in it. The 
 portion N. and W. of Primiero is espe- 
 cially defective. 
 
 RorxE A. 
 
 TRENT TO CAPRI LE, BY THE VAIXEYS OF 
 FIEMIIE AND FASSA. ASCEXT OF THB 
 MARMOLATA. 
 
 Hrs. Eng. 
 
 walking miles 
 
 Nenmarkt (by railway) . 22 
 
 Cavalese (by road) . .6 18 
 Predazzo . . . . L'| 8J 
 
 Vigo . . . . 3| 10^ 
 Campidello . . . 2^ 6^ 
 
 Fedaya (by foot-path) . 3 S 
 
 Caprile .... 3 8 
 
 Total from Xemnarkt 20^ 59 J 
 
 A post-stellwagen plies between Nenmarkt 
 and Cavalese, and another lighter vehicle be- 
 tween Caralese and Vigo. The road from Vigo 
 to Campidello is very rough. Ladies might 
 ride nearly all the way from Campidello to 
 Caprile, but will not easily find animals that 
 can b^ trusted. 
 
 It must appear strange to anyone 
 viewing the map of this district, that 
 the way from Lavis to the upper val- 
 ley of the Avisio should not follow the 
 course of that stream. In point of 
 fact, however, not one person in a 
 hundred bound for that destination 
 ever passes through the Val Cembra 
 (noticed in Rte, B) ; and this holds 
 true more especially since a good road 
 has been opened from the valley of the 
 Adige to Cavalese, the chief place in 
 Fiemme. The Ai<er (Ital. Ora) station 
 on the rly from Trent to Botzen is 
 nearer to Cavalese by 2 m. than that of 
 Keumarki (Ital. Egna), but most tra- 
 vellers prefer the latter because it is 
 much better supplied with vehicles, and 
 is the starting-place for the post-omni- 
 bus, which takes 3i or 4 hrs. to reach 
 Cavalese. The traveller who reaches 
 Auer or Neumarkt late in the day 
 should on no account sleep at either of 
 those places in the hot valley of the 
 Adige, but at the hamlet of Kaldisch, 
 about half-way to Cavalese. Beauti- 
 ful position ; good and cheap inn.' 
 [F, L, L,] On one side of the road is
 
 474 
 
 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § GO. FASSA DISTRICT. 
 
 passed the village of Truden (Ital. 
 Trodcna), 3,671 ft. above the sea, a 
 favourite soramerfrisch resort of the 
 natives of the adjoining places in the 
 Adige valley. After a long ascent, the 
 road reaches the summit-level, whence 
 a comparatively slight descent leals to 
 the Val di Fiemrae. The road passes 
 Caratio, where there is a sulphureous 
 spring used for baths, and Ij m. far- 
 ther reaches 
 
 Cavnlese (3,292'), a small but well- 
 built and apparently thriviug town 
 (Inns: Ancora, good and reasonable; 
 Uva, not recommended). The lover of 
 art should not fail to visit the ancient 
 gothic church, standing on rising 
 ground, with a marble portal that ap- 
 pears to be still older than the existing 
 church. The paintings and statues, of 
 various dates, are all by natives of the 
 valley, many of whom have attained to 
 eminence as artists. The most interest- 
 ing is a fresco representing the battle of 
 Lepanto, by Francesco Furlanell of 
 Tesero. The picture over the altar in 
 the chapel of the Rosary is by Antonio 
 Longo, a former parish-priest, who was 
 distinguished as a painter and architect. 
 Under the shadow of lime-trees above 
 the church is a stone table, with stone 
 seats around it, which was long the 
 meeting-place of the notables of the 
 valley. 
 
 German writers claim the population 
 of the valley of the Avisio as mainly 
 belonging to the Teutonic stock, al- 
 though an Italian dialect, not much 
 differing from that of Venetia, has pre- 
 vailed here for many centuries. It is 
 certain that from a remote period they 
 maintained virtual independence, paying 
 a small annual tribute to the Bishops 
 of Trent. "Whether from sympathy 
 with their German neighbours, or dread 
 of the encroachments of the Venetians, 
 they sided with the empire in the many 
 local conflicts with the troops of the re- 
 public, and in later times fought vigo- 
 rously against the French. The local 
 annals record that when, about the year 
 1300, the people of Feltre attempted 
 to take by force some tracts of Alpine 
 
 pasture on the confines towards Pri- 
 miero, the sturdy men of Fiemme as- 
 serted their rights by sacking and 
 burning the offending city. 
 
 In Val Cembra, and the portion of 
 Fiemme below Cavalese, cultivation is 
 limited by the narrowness of the valley 
 and the steepness of the slopes, and Val 
 di Fassa is an Alpine valley with a 
 severe climate. The intermediate tract 
 between Cavalese and Moena is com- 
 paratively fruitful, and maintains a 
 numerous population, scattered among 
 frequent villages. On the S. side the 
 range dividing this from the valleys of 
 the Brenta and the Vanoi is formed ex- 
 clusively of red porphyry, which there 
 attains its greatest elevation in the Alps 
 —the Cirna di Lagorei vesiching 8,67 5 ft. 
 (For the passes leading to Val Sugana, 
 see § 59, Rte. I.) On the opposite side 
 of the ralley the dolomite begins to 
 show itself. The westernmost point (?) 
 m the dolomite range is the insignificant 
 Monte Cvcal (5,579'), N. of Cavalese, 
 separated on the NE. side by the por- 
 phyritic summit of the Zangenherg 
 (8,198') from the steep dolomitic ridge 
 of Late^mar (8,983'). The road from 
 Cavalese runs nearly at a level along 
 the N. side of Val di Fiemme by Tesero 
 (3,267') and Zia7w, and then crosses 
 the Avisio to reach 
 
 'Predazzo (3,277'), the chief place in 
 Fiemme, after Cavalese. This is the 
 most attractive spot in the valley to the 
 geologist and mineralogist, and in the 
 stranger's book at the Nave d' Oro, a 
 very fair inn, the names of many of the 
 most eminent scientific m^n of Europe 
 were, and perhaps are still, to be seen. 
 Already, in the last centui-y, the Vi- 
 centine geologist, Count Marzari Pen- 
 cati, called attention to the fact that 
 granite was here to be seen overlying 
 secondary limestone. It is impossible 
 within the space here available to ex- 
 plain the grounds upon which geologists 
 have based the conclusion that the 
 present site of Predazzo stands about 
 the centre of an ancient crater, from 
 which six well-marked species of igneous 
 rocks were ejected during successixe
 
 ROUTE A. — EXCURSIONS FROM VIGO. 
 
 475 
 
 i^eriods of activity. The earliest of them 
 vraa syenite, to which followed a variety 
 of granite, in which tourmaline takes 
 the place of mica, and then fo\ir varieties 
 of porphyry, the latest of which ap- 
 proaches in structure and appearance to 
 syenite, and contains large crystals of 
 orthoclase. The traveller who feels 
 interest in the subject will doubtless 
 provide himself with Richthofen's im- 
 portant work, already referred to, and 
 t-hould also refer to the writings of 
 Cotta and other German geologists who 
 dissent from some of the conclusions 
 there announced. The valby seen 
 above Predazzo in approaching that 
 place from Cavalese is Val Travignolo, 
 through which lies the way to Cence- 
 nighe, described in Eto. E, and to Pri- 
 miero, noticed in § 59, Ete. F. The 
 valley of the Avisio here turns aside 
 from its previous course ; and the road, 
 which returns to the rt. bank, hence- 
 forth runs NNE. as far as Campidello. 
 Nearly opposite Predazzo a track 
 mounts NW. to the Battel Jbchl (7,520'), 
 on the E. side of the Zangenberg, and 
 leads either to Deutschenofen, or to the 
 Karneidthal (Ete. D). The valley above 
 Predazzo is enclosed between masses of 
 Igneous rock which screen from view 
 the much higher dolomite range of 
 Latemar. At Forno (3,703'), a coarse 
 limestone, apparently belonging to the 
 Muschelkalk, is for the first time seen 
 in the bed of the valley, separated by a 
 mass of porph}Ty {mela'phyre) from 
 sandstone beds which are referred to the 
 Lower Trias. The boundary between 
 Piemme and Fassa is reached at 
 
 Moena (3,873'), a large village with 
 two tolerably decent-looking inns. Col- 
 lections of minerals for sale are, or were, 
 kept here by Felicetti Medil, and J. B. 
 Zachia. A line of depression, which 
 seems to have some orographic impor- 
 tance, here traverses the valley of the 
 Avisio. To the east the Val di San 
 Pelegrino stretches about 9 m. between 
 ranges mainly composed of igneous 
 rock, and leads over a comparatively 
 low pass, connecting this with the valley 
 of the Cordfcvole (Ete. E). In the op- 
 
 posite direction a short and steep ascent 
 leads to the Caressa Pass (Ete. D), 
 which marks a wide gap between the 
 dolomitic rang^-s of Latemar and Eosen- 
 garten. After passing Moena the road 
 ascends continuously along the rt. bank 
 of the Avisio. Those who do not intend 
 to halt follow the lower road near the 
 river, which passes by San Giovanni 
 (4,362'). Another road, bearing to the 
 1., and ascending the swelling slope 
 above the stream, is the way to 
 
 Vigo (about 4,550'), the chief place in 
 Val di Fassa. Outside the village is the 
 inn kept by Antonio Eizzi, which affords 
 good rooms, very fair food, and the 
 attention of the host and his family; 
 but native simplicity has been corrupted 
 by intercourse with strangers, and the 
 host is grasping, and not very reliable. 
 Those who remain some days should make 
 an agreement with the landlord. Among 
 other things he is apt to charge too high for 
 horses and vehicles. The proper price for 
 a one-horse vehicle to Predazzo is 3 fl., 
 and to Cavalese 6 fl. This is the best 
 head-quarters for excursions in Val di 
 Fassa; but strange to say, all the higher 
 summits are concealed from view, and 
 the scenery of this part of the valley, as 
 compared with the adjoining region, may 
 be pronounced tame. The nearest point 
 from which a stranger can form any 
 conception of the grand objects close at 
 hand is the Sasso dei Mugoni, rising 
 W. of Eizzi's inn. Passing the church 
 of Sta. Giuliana, and ascending through 
 a larch wood, a path bears to the rt. on 
 approaching some cliffs, behind w^hich 
 is the desired summit. A far more com- 
 plete panoramic view, including all the 
 higher peaks of this district, is gained 
 from the Sasso di Dam, a summit rising 
 above the N. side of the Monzoni glen, 
 mentioned below. It is most conve- 
 niently reached from Pozza, the village 
 standing at the opening of that glen. 
 The height is probably about 8,600 ft. In 
 the writer's opinion, the most impressive 
 scenery in this district is enjoyed by 
 mounting from Vigo into a hollow, or 
 cirque, called Vajolet, which penetrates 
 deeply into the mass of the Bosengarten.
 
 476 
 
 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 60. FASSA DLSTRICT. 
 
 (10,163'). The stream issuing from it 
 passes fully l.^ m. to the X. of Vigo, but 
 by following it along a very roiigh path, 
 the traveller cannot miss his way to the 
 centre oi the cirque. Itisnot so regular in 
 form as some spots to which that desig- 
 nation is given, but for grandeur and 
 variety of rock-scenery it has scarcely 
 a superior. To enjoy it fully, and to 
 measure the vast scale of the fabric, the 
 traveller should by a stiff climb reach 
 the ridge at the E. end, which is acces- 
 sible (seemingly only at one point), and 
 gives a view in the direction of Botzen, 
 looking down a wall of precipice fully 
 3,000 ft. in height. 
 
 The naturalist will not fail to make 
 at least one excursion into the Monzoni 
 glen, which opens about 1 m. above Vigo. 
 Crossing the Avisio to Pozza (4,270'), 
 where the parish-priest,Sig. Pescota, has, 
 or had, a fine collection of minerals for 
 Bale, the traveller follows a good path 
 which for some distance mounts very 
 gently, somewhat S. of due E. After about 
 3 m.' the valley forks. Through the 
 longer branch runs a path leading to 
 the head of Contrin (Ete. F), Much 
 more interesting to the naturalist is that 
 which lies to the right in ascending the 
 valley. The traveller will have already 
 observed large erratic blocks of a pecu- 
 liar syenite, scattered over the limestone 
 deposits of the lower part of the glen. 
 This syenite comes from a high mass 
 culminating in the Eiccobetta (8,634') — 
 known to German writers as Monzo?ii- 
 herg — which lies between the SE. branch 
 of Monzoni and the Val di San Pele- 
 grino. Between the Riccobetta and the 
 valley of the Avisio is a dolomite peak, 
 best known as Sasso di Loch (8,658'), 
 which conceals the Eiccobetta from view 
 in the main valley. The rarest minerals 
 of this district, such as Vesuvian, gehlen- 
 ite, fassaite, zeylanite, &c., are found 
 near the junction of the Monzoni syenite 
 with the dolomite. The mountaineer 
 who climbs the ridge of the Eiccobetta, 
 a little E. of the summit, may descend 
 into Val di San Pelegrino by a very 
 long slope of grass beginning a short 
 Way below the ridge of the mountain, 
 
 and so steep that caution is advisable. 
 Here is found Cirsium flavescens, one 
 of those permanent hybrids charac- 
 teristic of that genus. 
 
 There are many men at or near Vigo 
 who are ready to act as guides — expect- 
 ing 3 fl. a day — but beyond a knowledge 
 of the paths, they are of little vise. The 
 writer does not know of any man in the 
 valley who has the least claim to be 
 counted as a mountaineer, unless it be 
 a, guardahoschi, at or near Campidello, 
 whose character did not stand high in the 
 estimation of his neighbours. Few dis- 
 tricts in the Alps can boast of so rich a 
 flora as that of the valleys of Eiemme 
 and Fassa ; but several species, once 
 supposed to be nearly confined to this 
 valley, are now known to be widely 
 spread throughout the Dolomite Alps. 
 The following very rare plants may be 
 noted among those of the dolomite 
 mountains, especially of the Eosen- 
 garten : — Saxifraga Facchinii, Valeriana 
 elongata, and V. s?ipina, Artemisia la- 
 nata, Campanula Morettiana, and An- 
 drosace Hausmanniana. Among the 
 plants confined to syenite, or porphyry, 
 may be enumerated Silene Pumilio, Saxi' 
 fraga cernua, Pedicular is asplenifolia, 
 Androsace helvetica, Prvnula longiflora, 
 Juncus arcticus, and Sesleria tenella. 
 
 Above Vigo and San Giovanni, the 
 road leading to the head of the valley 
 is narrow and rough, so that little time 
 is gained by taking a vehicle to Campi- 
 dello, where it comes to an end. After 
 passing the small village of Pera 
 (4,316'), with a small inn kept by 
 Eicci, the road crosses the torrent from 
 Vajolet (see above), and about 2 m. 
 farther reaches Mazin (4,488'), in a 
 very picturesque situation, at the open- 
 ing of a short glen (called Vajol ?) 
 which runs into the mass of the E^osen- 
 garten, and must be well worth explor- 
 ing. Bearing to the rt. from that glen, 
 a path mounts to the Anterynoja Pass, 
 leading to the upper end of the Duron- 
 thai (Ete. C). This is a short cut in 
 distance, but scarcely in time, for a 
 traveller going from Vigo to the Seisaer 
 Alps. About 2^ m. beyond Mazin is
 
 ROUTE A. — FEDAYA PASS. 
 
 477 
 
 Campidello (4,814'), standing at the 
 opening of the Duronthal, through 
 ■which descends the frequented track 
 from the Seisser Alp (Rte. C). This 
 place has the finest position in the 
 valley of the Avisio as a centre for 
 excursions in the adjoining valleys. 
 From the village and its immediate 
 neighbourhood, fine glimpses are gained 
 of the surrounding peaks, and it stands 
 at the meeting-place of the paths lead- 
 ing to several passes. With ampler 
 accommodation, it would, doubtless, 
 become a place of frequent resort. Of 
 two small inns, that (Al Mulino) kept 
 by Gr. Bernard is well managed and fairly 
 comfortable — the best head-quarters for 
 mountaineers in this valley. 
 
 Among other excursions the traveller 
 may well follow the path by Gries lead- 
 ing to the Pordoi Pass (see Rte. I). 
 Before reaching the summit he should 
 bear to the right till he attains the 
 western ridge of Monte Padon, which 
 commands a noble view of the Marmo- 
 lata. (jio. Batt. Bernard is the best 
 guide here, and might be taken as porter 
 even on an arduous expedition. 
 
 Above Campidello the scenery of the 
 head of the Fassathal constantly in- 
 creases in beauty and grandeur, and 
 occasional glimpses of the Marmolata 
 keep the traveller's attention constantly 
 on the alert. Leaving on the 1. hand 
 the hamlet of Gries, the track passes 
 Canazei, and for a short distance pur- 
 sues a SSE. course, till after passing 
 Alba (5,080'), at the opening of Val di 
 Contrin (sometimes called Val Predda), 
 the easterly direction is resumed 
 throughout the head of the valley. A 
 short way beyond Alba is Penia, the 
 highest hamlet. The track soon after 
 crosses to the rt. bank of the torrent, 
 and a rather steep ascent leads up to 
 the broad green basin which lies imme- 
 diately on the N. side of the Marmolata, 
 and receives the torrents from two of 
 its glaciers, here uniting to form the 
 stream of the Avisio. The scenery of 
 the Fedaya Pass may be truly called 
 unique in the Alps. Its nearest coun- 
 terpart will be sought among those 
 
 famous passes in the Bernese Oberland 
 that approach the bases of the great 
 peaks. But, if it must be owned that 
 the Wetterhorn and the Eiger. as seen 
 from the tracks of the Scheidegjr and 
 Wengem Alps, are still grandtr ol je.ts 
 than the Marmolata, there is som«'lhing 
 in the contrast between the idyllic re- 
 i pose and seclusion of the Fedaya b;isin, 
 ard the intense sternness of the M:irmo- 
 lata, for which the writer is unable to 
 suggest a parallel. A further notice of 
 the mountain is given below. Leaving 
 on one side a small cluster of cosere, 
 where tolerable night-quarters are found 
 by a traveller intending the ascent of 
 the Marmolata, and passing a very small 
 tarn, the track reaches the summit of 
 the Fedoya Pass (6,884') at the E. ei,d 
 of the basin, and rising but little above 
 its level. The frontier between Italy 
 and Tyrol is here passed, as the valley 
 of the Cordevole, except at its extreme 
 N. end, belongs to the Italian province 
 of Belluuo. The path (steep in places) 
 descends to SE. amid very beautiful 
 scenery, through a short glen called 
 Val Pettorina ; and as the traveller 
 passes round the E. side of the Marmo- 
 lata range, hitherto unseen portions of 
 that peak come into view. After join- 
 ing a cattle-track that descends from Val 
 Ombretta (Rte. F), the path descends 
 to enter the Serai or gorge of Sottoguda, 
 one of the most remarkable in the Alps, 
 which, by some strange chance, has re- 
 mained almost unknown to travellers, 
 and is not even named in the last 
 edition of ' Schaubach,' usually very 
 complete and well informed as to this 
 district. For more than half a mile 
 the torrent rushes through a cleft, varj-- 
 ing from 12 ft. to about double that 
 width, and the walls on either side rise 
 so vertically, that but a narrow strip of 
 sky is visible, and is in places almost 
 completely concealed by bushes clinging 
 to the rocks. Through this the path is 
 carried, partly along the stream, but 
 mainly on a stage suspended above it, 
 crossing from side to side ten or twelve 
 times. After issuing from this extra- 
 ordinary defile, the path passes Sotto-
 
 478 
 
 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 60. FASSA DISTRICT. 
 
 guda (4,254'), a small group of houses 
 ■vrith a miserable inn, and descends 
 thence to Rocca (3,881'). In 1 m. far- 
 tlier it reaches 
 
 Caprile, described in § 61, Rte. C. 
 
 The ascent of the Marmolata is an 
 expedition which will be attractive to 
 all practised mountaineers who may 
 visit this district. Although the writer, 
 in company with Mr. J. Birkbeck and 
 Victor Tairraz of Chamouni, arrived 
 within a few feet of the summit of the 
 second peak of the mountain in 1860, 
 the weather was so utterly unfavourable 
 that his acquaintance with the moun- 
 tain is mainly derived from the nar- 
 ratives of Dr. Grohmann, who reached 
 the same peak in 1862, and made the 
 first ascent of the highest summit in 
 1864, and from notes kindly commu- 
 nicated by Mr. Tuckett, who effected 
 the second ascent in 1865. The name 
 Vedretta Marmolata, often given to the 
 mountain because its northern declivity 
 is covered with neve, or glacier, should 
 be rejected. 
 
 The description given by Mr. Church- 
 ill, who likens the form of the moun- 
 tain to a wooden case for stationery, 
 vertical on one side, and sloping at a 
 high angle on the other, conveys very 
 well the impression gained when the 
 mountain is viewed in profile from the 
 W. or E. side. To speak more accu- 
 rately, the mountain may be described 
 as a ridge extending from E. to W. 
 with two central peaks, divided by a 
 comparatively slight depression, and 
 flanked by two attendant summits, one 
 on the E. the other on the W. side. On 
 the S. side the ridge falls in a range of 
 precipices, in great part nearly vertical, 
 and averaging about 3,000 ft. in height. 
 On the N. side four massive buttresses 
 project fromthe main mass, and between 
 these three tongues of glacier, fed by 
 the continuous slope of nev6 that covers 
 the range on this side, descend towards 
 the basin of Fedaya. Viewing the moun- 
 tain from theN. side— the most favour- 
 able point being the Forcella di Padon 
 (Rte. I) — the eastern flanking peak, 
 called Saranta (9,947'), is seen to the 1. ; 
 
 1 
 
 thence the snow-ridge rises continuously 
 to the Marmolata di Rocca, or second 
 peak, which, according to the ' Kataster' 
 measurement, is 402 ft. lower than the 
 W. peak. Separated from the latter by 
 a well-marked depression in the ridge, 
 is the westernmost summit near Penia, 
 called by Dr. Grohmann, Vernel; but 
 the writer doubts whether that name is 
 known in the Val di Fassa. The most 
 direct and easiest course for the ascent 
 seems to be that taken by Mr. Tuckett. 
 Approaching the base of the peak by 
 the central tongue of glacier, which is 
 that nearest to the Fedaya chalets, he 
 ascended thus until the rock-buttress 
 on his rt. hand disappeared beneath 
 the neve, and then bore to the rt. until 
 he reached the lower part of the trough 
 or couloir which divides the two main 
 peaks. Finding the rocks on his rt. hand 
 to be unexpectedly easy, he climbed up 
 them, and so reached the topmost ^a/o^^« 
 of neve, when the actual summit was 
 easily attained. Under favourable cir- 
 cumstances, the expedition seems to ba 
 free from all serious difficulty, but it 
 would be unwise to attempt the ascent 
 without at least one guide well used to 
 ice-work, a qualification not possessed 
 by any of the natives of Fassa, The 
 ' Kataster ' measurement of the highest 
 peak is 11,466 ft., while a careful ba- 
 rometric determination by Dr. Groh- 
 mann gives only 11,045 ft. As the 
 ' Kataster ' measurements do not inspire 
 complete confidence, and a single baro- 
 metric measurement is subject to many 
 chances of error, it is allowable to infer 
 that the height of this crowning summit 
 of the Fassa Alps is not yet satisfac- 
 torily determined. In a second ascent, 
 accomplished in 1869, Mr. Tuckett, who 
 reached the summit in 6j hrs. from 
 Caprile, ascertained beyond a doubt 
 that this peak surpasses the Cimon della 
 Pala, and the other Primiero peaks, a 
 point on which doubt had been thrown 
 by Dr. Grohmann.
 
 KOUTE B. — VAL CEilBRA. 
 
 479 
 
 EOXTTB B. 
 
 LAVIS TO CAVAXESE, BY VAX CE3IBEA. 
 
 Pally 10 hrs. steady walking. At least 30 m. 
 
 The Vol Cembra, or Zimmerthal, is 
 BO difficult of access that it is rarely- 
 traversed, except by the inhabitants of 
 the villages that are perched on the 
 heights above the river, which has cut 
 a deep trench through the porph}-Ty 
 rock that prevails throughout this lower 
 part of the valley of the Avisio. It is 
 not, however, without attractions in 
 point of scenery, and cannot fail to 
 afford objects of interest to the natu- 
 ralist. Those who would avoid the most 
 laborious and hottest part of the way 
 may take the path leading from the 
 high-road between Trent and Pergine 
 by Baselga and the Lake of Pine (§ 59, 
 Ete. A), and so reach Spiazso, on the 1. 
 bank of the Avisio. That is one of the 
 few places where it is possible to cross 
 the river without great delay, and the 
 traveller may join the main track on 
 the rt. side of the valley near Valda. 
 Another course is to start from Salurn 
 and take a mountain-path that leads 
 across the porphyry ridge dividing that 
 place from Valda. There is a char-road 
 from La vis as far as Valda, and a 
 bridle-track thence to Cavalese. Little 
 or no time is saved by taking a vehicle, 
 especially in ascending the valley. The 
 distances are much greater than they 
 appear on the map, owing to the many 
 
 ravines cut by torrents in the porphyry 
 slopes, each of which involves a detour. 
 
 Prom Lavis the road at once begins 
 to ascend above the rt. bank of the 
 Avisio, winding along the slopes with 
 a general direction but little N. of E. 
 After passing Lisignano, which com- 
 mands a fine view, the road, in 3 lirs. 
 from Lavis, reaches 
 
 Cemhra (2,186'), the chief place in 
 the valley, with a tolerably good inn 
 (bei Lanziger), and a church, which 
 does credit to so remote a place. Hence- 
 forward the valley ascends towards NE., 
 but the road winds in every direction, 
 owing to the roughness of the ground. 
 Passing Faver, the road (in about 1^ 
 hr. more) comes to an end at Valda 
 (2,562'). Between these two villages 
 Spiazzo is seen at a much lower level 
 on the opposite bank, at the junction of 
 the torrent from 'Val Regnana with the 
 main stream. G-rumes, Gra\mo, and 
 some small hamlets are passed before 
 reaching Capriana. At this village, and 
 at Fal Floriana, on the opposite bank, 
 Val Cembra comes to an end, and the 
 traveller enters Val di Fiemme. As far 
 as Predazzo (see last Ete.) the direction 
 henceforward is but little N. of E. Pass- 
 ing Altrey, the track for the first time 
 approaches the Avisio at Molina (3,312'). 
 This place, where there is said to be a 
 good country inn, stands at the point 
 where the Pradajathal pours its torrent 
 into the Avisio from the N., and the 
 more considerable stream from Val di 
 Cadino joins the river from the S. By 
 that way the most direct path from 
 Borgo di Val Sugana reaches Cavalese 
 (§ 59, Ete. I). From Molina the direct 
 way to Cavalese is by Castello, but, by 
 a slight detour, the carriage-road from 
 Neumarkt (Ete. A) may be joined at 
 Carano.
 
 EOUTE C. 
 
 EOTZEX TO CAJyrPIDELLO IN FASS4l, BY 
 THE SEISSEE AT.P. 
 
 Hrs. Eug. 
 
 ■walking miles 
 
 Atzwang (high-road) . 2J 
 
 Vols (hridle-track) . . IJ 
 
 Campidello (by Seisser 1 
 
 Alp) . . . j- 
 
 <^ 
 
 20 
 
 480 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 60. FASSA DISTRICT 
 
 on his rt. hand, and joins the main track 
 about ^ ni. from that village. Ladies 
 can obtain horses (? as to side-saddles) 
 at Atzwang, or, if they prefer it, may be 
 drawn in a sort of sledge which slides 
 along the blocks of stone with which the 
 track is paved. Guides are generally 
 found ready to proiFer their services 
 both at Atzwang and Sttg. They are 
 content with 2 fl. a day, and generally 
 ask no more than ^ fl. for showing the 
 way to Seiss or Ratzes. Anton Bergler 
 is recommended to botanists, as he 
 knows the habitats of a good many rare 
 plants, and is an agreeable companion, 
 Josef von Metz, of Seiss, is also well 
 recommended- Although a guide may 
 not be absolutely necessary, it is judi- 
 cious to take one ; there are many paths, 
 and it is easy to miss the direct way, 
 especially in going to Ratzes. The 
 wx-iter knows of no guide here who can 
 be relied on for difficult expeditions. 
 
 Nothing can be more charming than 
 the track from Vols to the Seisser Alp. 
 It winds along the gentle slopes that 
 stretch up to the base of the Schleren, 
 amid alternations of patches of pine 
 forest with clumps of deciduous trees, 
 and occasional openings of the greenest 
 mountain meadow. After going some 
 way XE. the track bears to the E., and 
 the pinnacles of the Schleren become 
 more and more dominant as the tra- 
 veller approaches their base. When 
 the defile of the Eisack between Klausen 
 and Botzen was impassable to travellers, 
 a frequented track was carried along 
 this side of the valley. It is not sur- 
 prising that at the time when vague 
 popular traditions of heroic adventure 
 were consolidated in the earliest German 
 ' Helde-nlieder,' the marvellous scenery of 
 this district should have become asso- 
 ciated with legends that do not seem 
 more marvellous. The 'crv^stal castle' 
 of ' King Laurin the dwarf' was in the 
 interior of the Schleren, and the ' Griine 
 Tan,' commemorated in those poems, was 
 the forest of Hauenstein, that once ex- 
 tended from the base of the mountain 
 to the verge of the defile of the Eisack. 
 Before long the ruined castle of Hauen- 
 
 iii 30J 
 
 The favourite way to approach the 
 Dolomite Alps from the N. is that here 
 described, and desen-edly so, as it offers 
 the attractions of scenery as singular as 
 it is charming. Fine weather is, how- 
 ever, an essential condition. A walk or 
 ride across the Seisser Alp in rain or 
 snow, with the surrounding peaks veiled 
 in cloud, is as little tempting as any 
 expedition that can be suggested. As 
 will be seen below, the way from Vols 
 to Campidello admits of many varia- 
 tions ; but, supposing the traveller not 
 to diverge widely from the direct course, 
 the time allowed is enough for a steady 
 walker, clear of halts, except fur the 
 way across the summit of the Schleren. 
 
 The easiest course for reaching Vols 
 from Botzen is to hire a carriage, and 
 follow the road to Steg, whence a rather 
 steep path mounts direct to VlJIs (2,862'), 
 a village perched on a mountain terrace 
 nearly 1,5'')0 ft. above the Eisack. It 
 has a very fair inn (Weisses Kreuz) 
 which may serve as starting-point for 
 the ascent of the Schleren (see below). 
 Those who wish to avail themselves of 
 -the railway will take their places from 
 Botzen to Atzwang (§ 49, Rte. A). In 
 mounting from that place, the traveller 
 bound for Seiss or Ratzes leaves Vols
 
 ROUTE C — THE SEISSER ALP. 
 
 481 
 
 stein, the home of Oswald von Wolken- 
 stein, the warrior and minnesdnger, is 
 seen rising above the forest. 
 
 The traveller here has to choose his 
 course. To the E. and SE. he sees be- 
 fore him an undulating ridge of mode- 
 rate height, locally called Puflatsch, 
 which is merely the outer declivity of 
 the great plateau of the Seisser Alp. 
 Due E. on undulating ground N. of the 
 Puflatsch is the village of Seiss (3,264'), 
 with two very fair country inns, of about 
 equal pretensions. To the rt., or SE., 
 is a hollow recess, 2 or 3 miles deep, 
 ■almost completely overgrown by forest, 
 at the head of which stand the Baths of 
 Batzes (4,172'). The place consists of 
 three small houses nestling at the very 
 base of the pinnacles of the Schleren, 
 almost lost in the forest, so that visitors 
 who stray from the beaten track are 
 sometimes hard set to find their way 
 ■when within a few hundred yards of the 
 establishment. It is fair to warn the 
 stranger, who may be tempted by the 
 more than Arcadian beauty of the posi- 
 tion, that he must expect more than 
 Arcadian simplicity, and some defi- 
 ciencies from the standard of modern 
 civilisation. The baths are resorted to 
 by farmers and small shopkeepers from 
 the adjoining towns and villages, who 
 willingly put up with the roughest sleep- 
 ing accommodation. The food supplies 
 are uncertain ; but a traveller with 
 mountain appetite will generally find 
 sufficient nourishment. The people of 
 the house are civil and obliging ; but 
 when it is full, as happens not rarely 
 in sunimi-r, their good intentions cannot 
 do much for the traveller's comfort. He 
 who would spend some days in the im- 
 mediate neighbourhood of the Seisser 
 Alp and the Schleren, must choose 
 between Katzes and the neat village inns 
 of Seiss ; but, if merely on his way from 
 Vols to the Fassathal, he need not halt 
 at either place. His shortest way is by 
 an intermediate path that joins the cart- 
 track from Seiss half-way in the ascent ; 
 but tuc writer recommends him to pass 
 by Ratzes, if he does not fear a slight 
 detour, or else a steep and rough ascent 
 
 8. T. I 
 
 from that place, which leads up to the 
 Seisser Alp near the point where the 
 cart-track reaches the summit. 
 
 Postponing a notice of the Schleren, 
 which is par excellence the mountain of 
 this neighbourhood, it is necessary to 
 say something of the Seisser Alp, so 
 frequently referred to by all travellers 
 who have visited this region. As the 
 name denotes, it is an afp, or mountain 
 pasture, but of extraordinary dimen- 
 sions, measuring about 36 m. in circuit. 
 The surface is an undulating plateau, 
 with a mean elevation of from 5,500 to 
 6,000 ft., rising on its N. side towards 
 the Grrodnerthal, and on the NW. to- 
 wards Ratzes, into a range of hills, 
 chiefly formed of augite porphjTy, that 
 reach or surpass the level of 7,000 ft. 
 On the SW. side the plateau is bounded 
 by the dolomite range of the Schleren 
 and Rosengarten, and to the SE. rises 
 the still loftier mass of the Langkofel 
 and Plattkofel. Between the latter and 
 the Rosengarten, the S. limit of the 
 plateau, marking the watershed between 
 the Eisach and the Avisio, is formed of 
 volcanic rocks, rising to a height of 
 between 7,000 and 7,600 ft. The pla- 
 teau, which is lower in the centre than 
 towards the verge, would be converted 
 into a lake if there were not an opening 
 in the rim on the side of the Grodnerthal, 
 through which passes the greater part 
 of the drainage. The corner near the 
 base of the Schleren is drained by a tor- 
 rent, called Tschippitbach, that passes 
 close to the Baths of Ratzes. One of 
 the first facts that strike the traveller 
 in a region where the strata are almost 
 uniformly permeable, is the marshy 
 character of the vegetation on the moro 
 level parts of the plateau. On further 
 examination he will find that this arises 
 from the nature of the superficial de- 
 posit. It is a tufa formed of volcanic 
 ashes, that have been subjected to ma- 
 rine action, either at the time, or sub-- 
 sequent to the date of their original 
 ejection. When the traveller in this 
 district finds a tenacious soil, causing 
 p;iludose vegetation, he may usually, 
 though not invariably, attribute the
 
 482 
 
 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 60. FASSA DISTRICT. 
 
 effect to the presence of the same deposit. 
 When he finds this deposit covering the 
 greater part of the space lying between 
 the Schleren and the head of the Ga- 
 derthal, and in many plaoes appearing 
 to be 2,000 ft. in thjckn^ss, he will 
 infer the vastness of the scale of the 
 ancient volcanic action of which one 
 centre was probably at the Seisser Alp 
 itself. 
 
 The great ' alp ' supports in summer 
 & large population, partly engaged in 
 tending 1,200 or 1,300 head of horned 
 cattle, and partly in making hay on 
 portions of the plateau reserved for that 
 purpose. It is said that there are 300 
 sennhiitten and 400 hay-sheds. The 
 former number is probably an exagge- 
 ration, and the more so as only a portion 
 of the stock consists of dairy cows. The 
 surface of the plateau is not altogether 
 bare. There are many clumps of pine 
 timber on the slopes, which help to 
 diversify its aspect. 
 
 Nothing can be more charming than 
 the walk over the Seisser Alp when 
 favoured by weather. The Langkofel 
 (10,392'), and Flattkofel (9,702'), which 
 rise in front as the traveller steers to- 
 wards the pass leading to Campidello, 
 are unfailing objects of interest. The 
 latter is accessible without serious dif- 
 ficulty from Seiss, or, more conve- 
 niently, from Sta. Christina in the 
 Grodnerthal (Ete. G-). The Langkofel 
 looks as if it might long continue to 
 defy aU attempts at an escalade. 
 
 The rough cart-track, used for carry- 
 ing down cheese, hay, &c., mounts from 
 Seiss along the W. face of the Pufiatsch 
 (7,127')> and is joined on the way by a 
 beaten path from Ratzes. But there is 
 no dif&culty in mounting through the 
 forest from that place and joining the 
 track about ^ hr. below the point where 
 it reaches the level of the plateau. 
 AMien this has been attained there is no 
 need to follow paths, as the traveller 
 may take his own course, provided ho 
 keeps the tine direction. The botanii^t 
 will find many interesting plants, of 
 which the following are seen in marshy 
 ground : — Tkalicirum alpinum, Knautla 
 
 I longifolia, Kohresia caricina, Eriopho- 
 I rum alpinum, Canx capitata, and C 
 microglochin. On drier spots, rising 
 above the general level, several of the 
 species given below in the Schleren list 
 may aiso be found. In about 6 hrs. from 
 Vols the summit of the pass leading to 
 Fassa is attained. It is at the SW. side 
 of the broad gap between the Plattkogel 
 and the Rosengarten range, near to a 
 N W. outlier from the latter. It is called 
 Mahlknecht Pass on the German (Seiss) 
 side, and Molignon in Fassa, and is 
 7,016 ft. above the sea. The name 
 3Iahlknecht properly belongs to a house, 
 a sort of chalet inn, nearly ^ hr. below 
 the summit on the Seisser Alp side, 
 where the traveller willingly halts to 
 enjoy a mountain luncheon, ennobled by 
 the surrounding scenery. The way to- 
 wards the Val di Fassa lies through the 
 Duronihal, and though quite free from 
 difficulty, is considerably steeper than 
 on the other side. The glen makes a 
 bend a little S. of due E., soon reaching 
 a group of Pinus cenibra. Scdum vilLo- 
 sum, Lomatogonium carinthiacum, and 
 other rare plants may be gathered by 
 the way, and many species usually con- 
 fined to the high Alpine region descend 
 to the lower end of the glen. In 1 ^ hr. 
 from the Mahlknecht the traveller 
 reaches Campidello, and if he has not 
 halted too long by the way, may easily 
 go on to Vigo, or even Predazzo, on the 
 same evening. (See Ete. A.) 
 
 Few travellers will take this route 
 without accomplishing the ascent of 
 the Schleren (8,406'). The panoramic 
 view from the Eittnerhorn (on the op- 
 posite side of the Eisack defile) is 
 more complete; but this is in many 
 respects more interesting, and by as- 
 cending this, which is perhaps the most 
 easily accessible dolomite summit in 
 this region, the stranger gains the op- 
 portunity of making a nearer acquaint- 
 ance with the singular structure of 
 these mountains. The name is often 
 applied to the entire range, which ei- 
 I tends from WNW. to ESE., nearly at 
 I rt. angles to that cf the Eosengarten; 
 1 but is locally confined to the
 
 ROUTE C. ASCENT OF THE SCHLEREN. 
 
 483 
 
 forming its western extremity, and im- 
 mediately overhanging Ratzes. This 
 is separated by a sh'ght depression 
 from the E. end of the range, appro- 
 priately named Eosszdhne, as its shat- 
 tered towers of rock seen from a dis- 
 tance bear some resemblance to a 
 row of horse's teeth, of unequal size, 
 loosely set in a jaw-lx)ne of rock. 
 
 On its N. and NW. sides, the Schle- 
 rea shows precipitous faces of rock, 
 broken here and there into detached 
 pinnacles and towers that are charac- 
 teristic of the dolomite formation ; and 
 the Mtng« extending thence to the Eoss- 
 zahne falls everywhere steeply towards 
 the Seisser Alp, On the S. side, the 
 range is far more easy of access, and 
 the centred portion subsides in com- 
 paratively gentle slopes towards the 
 Tierserthal (Rte. D). The geologist 
 cannot fail to be struck by the regular 
 order in which the sedimentary strata 
 have been deposited in a district where 
 there is such complete evidence of vol- 
 canic action on the largest scale, and 
 where the forms of the mountains sug- 
 gest the belief in violent disturbances 
 ■of the earth's crust. In ascending the 
 mountain from Vols, or Seiss, or Tiers 
 — by three different sides — he will pass 
 overthe same series of formations, includ- 
 ing nearly all the subdivisions of the trias, 
 ■beginning with the Groden sandstone 
 at the base, and terminating with the 
 Baibl beds which form a small patch at 
 the 6\immit. However extensive the 
 changes that have supervened in the 
 mineral character of these beds, their 
 nearly horizontal stratification, and uni- 
 form thickness, show that since the 
 period of their original deposition they 
 have suffered no considerable disturb- 
 ance. The same conclusion is enforced 
 elsewhere in this district, but is no- 
 where better seen than here. 
 
 The easiest way to the summit of the 
 Schleren is that from Vols. There is 
 a tolerably good path, and ladies may 
 ride nearly all the way. In 1864, a 
 hut was erected to supply refreshments j 
 by the way, but the writer has not heard j 
 whether it has been kept open in sub 
 
 xj 2 
 
 sequent years. There is another easy, 
 but rather circuitous, way from Tiers 
 (Rte. D). Having gained the ridge 
 between the Schleren and the Roes- 
 ziihne, the latter way turns to the 1, 
 and follows the ridge to the summit. 
 
 The way from Seiss is to follow the 
 beaten track to the Seisser Alp, and then 
 turn sharply to the rt. It is necessary 
 to cross the Tschippitbach before reach- 
 ing the base of the slope, immediately 
 to the 1. of the crags of the Schleren. 
 Here a beaten track is found, fre- 
 quented by native visitors, who often 
 pass the night in an adjoining senn 
 hiiite, in order to reach the summit, 
 earlier. On reaching the ridge of the 
 mountain, a little chapel or oratorj- is 
 seen, erected for the shepherds who 
 pass the summer on the mountain, and 
 turning to the rt., a short ascent leads 
 to the top. From Ratzes, the ordinary 
 course, involving a wide detour, is to 
 join the track from Sei<s to the Seisser 
 Alp. The mountaineer will much prefer 
 a steep scramble through the forest by 
 the N. side of the impassable cleft of the 
 Tschippitbach. The path has beencarried 
 away in places, and, unless improved, 
 can scarcely be recommended to ordi- 
 nary travellers. There was a more diffi- 
 cult, and rather shorter, way from Ratzes, 
 by the very steep slopes above the S. 
 side of the gorge of the Tschippitbach. 
 Bearing to the 1., the ordinary track 
 above mentioned was joined about half- 
 way in the ascent. Still more arduouB, 
 and fit only for a practised and steady 
 cragsman, was a way that led nearly 
 directly from Ratzes to the upper pla- 
 teau of the Schleren by narrow lp.'lg»-s 
 on the face of the seemingly hopeless pr<- 
 cipices. It was discovered by noticing 
 the passage of chamois, and calie<i 
 Gams-steig — here pronounced Gaui- 
 mets-steig. In 1864, the writer was 
 assured that this way, and that by the 
 slopes S, of the Tschippitkich, had 
 both been rendered unapproachable by 
 landslips that had been caused by a 
 storm in that year. Another cotirge, 
 also reserved for practised cragsmen, 
 is through the Klamm. This ia seen
 
 484 
 
 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 60. FASSA DISTRICT. 
 
 from the track between Vols and Seiss 
 as a deep gash, cleft, as though by 
 Roland's sword, into the centre of the 
 mountain. The climb is said not to be 
 very diflEicult, but the fall of a rock or 
 other slight accident might easily make 
 it impracticable. The summit of the 
 .Schleren shows distinctly the plateau 
 character, though it is deeply excavated 
 by the Klamm and other lesser fissures. 
 The highest point is rather far from 
 the edge of xhe plateau, so that the 
 view does not extend to the nearer 
 valleys. The outline of the Eittner- 
 liorn panorama, given in this volume, 
 ■will assist the traveller in identifying 
 many of the distant summits. The 
 Gross Glockner is not seen, being ap- 
 parently masked by the Antholzer Alps. 
 Nor did the writer notice the Pelmo 
 (counted in the panorama by Schaubach), 
 which is yevj finely seen from the Ross- 
 zahne. The Adamello, Ortler, and 
 Oetzthal Alps are all well seen, but the 
 SE. horizon is concealed by the Rosen- 
 garten range. Besides admiring the 
 view from the summit, the traveller 
 should not omit to approach the verge 
 of the Klamm, and that of the pre- 
 cipices facing towards Ratzes and the 
 Seisser Alp. An active walker may 
 easily take the Schleren on his way 
 fi'om Vols to Campidello in a day's 
 walk of about 10 hrs., excluding halts. 
 Those who have time ma)^ combine the 
 Bosszdhne with the Schleren in the 
 same excursion. The height attributed 
 (on what authority ?) to the eastern 
 tooth — 9.172 ft. — appears to the writer 
 eon.siderably above the truth, and he 
 estimates the difference between this 
 and the Schleren at between 300 and 
 400 ft. For the greater part of the 
 way, the ridge is quite easily followed ; 
 but at the E. end there are some awk- 
 ward places. The face of the Ross- 
 zahne towards the Seisser Alp is 
 fluted into a series of furrows by the 
 action of the weather. There are 
 several places where the ascent is suf- 
 ficiently easy, but caution should be 
 used in descending. It is not a place I 
 where any but a very experienced I 
 
 climber should go alone j especially 
 when the rocks are covered with ice, a» 
 the writer found it at his last visit, on 
 Aug. 13, 1864. Though a part of the 
 panorama is lost, the writer prefers the 
 view from the Rosszahne to that from 
 the Schleren. Especially striking is 
 the view into the gorge of the Tscha- 
 minbach, and that of the Rosengarten 
 range, here near at hand. It would 
 doubtless be possible for a mountaineer 
 to reach the Rosszahne by the Tsehamin- 
 bach from Tiers (Rte.D), and theexcur- 
 sion would be full of interest. 
 
 There is no mountain in the Alps 
 that has acquired so great a reputation 
 among botanists for the richness of its 
 flora, and the number of rare plants it 
 produces, as the Schleren, and there is,, 
 perhaps, none that deserves its reputa- 
 tion so well. At the same time it may 
 be here remarked that many species- 
 once supposed to be peculiar to this 
 and a few other spots, are now known 
 to be spread throughout the Dolomite 
 Alps, extending hence to the sources of 
 the Isonzo, and even beyond those 
 limits. The following list includes the 
 more interesting plants of the Schleren 
 range (including the Rosszahne). An 
 asterisk is prefixed to those charac- 
 teristic species found on nearly all the 
 dolomite peaks of this and the adjoin- 
 ing districts : — Eanuncidus hyhridus, 
 R. Seguieri, *AquiIegia Bertolo7iii, * Pa- 
 paver 'pyrenaicum, Arahis carulea, * A. 
 pumiJa, Draha tomeniosa, D. incana, 
 Cochharia hrevkaulis, Capsella pauci- 
 flora, Diantkus glacialis, *Alsine au- 
 'Striaca, A. lanceo^ata, '^Cherhria imhri- 
 cata, Phaca alpina, Oxytropis Halleri, 
 Astragalus pur2mreus, * PotentUIa ni- 
 fida, * Saxifraga squarrosa, * 8. Se- 
 doidcs, S. Facchinii (Rosszahne), Vale- 
 riana supina, * V. elongata, Gnapkaliu/n 
 carpiathicum, * Achillea clavena, *Ptar- 
 mica oxyloha, Artemisia spicata, * Se- 
 nccio ahrotanifolius, Saussurea discolor, 
 Lenntodon Taraxaci, * Crepis incamata, 
 ^Phyteuma eo7nosum,*P. Sieheri, Cam- 
 pamda Morettiana, Lomatogonium ca- 
 rinthmcnim, Gentiana prostrata, G. 
 tenella, * G. irnbricata, *Pc£derota Bo-
 
 ROUTE D. CARESSA PASS. 
 
 485 
 
 narota, Tozzia alpina, Fediculuris 
 rosea. Andro!<ace heUeiica, A. Haus- 
 ma'iiniana, * Primula minima, Juncus 
 arcticus. Carex rupesfris, C. incurva, C. 
 reclinata, * Sesleria spJuerorephala, As- 
 plenium Seelosii (aLove Ilauenstein), 
 Woodsia hyperborea, W. glabella (?) 
 
 Besides the localities for fossils men- 
 tioned by Eichtliofen and others, the 
 writer has observed that the steep rocks 
 of the Eosszahne, on the side facing 
 the Seisser Alp, are in some places ex- 
 tremely rich in marine testacba. 
 
 RotlTE D. 
 
 TIGO TO BOTZEN, BY THE CARESSA 
 PASS. 
 
 Within the last few years a road has 
 been opened through the Karneidthal 
 from Botzen to Welschenofen, which de- 
 serves to be generally known. In many 
 parts of the Alps it would of itself 
 suffice to draw tourists from a distance, 
 but it has been almost overlooked amid 
 the manifold attractions of this beauti- 
 ful district. It has the further recom- 
 mendation that it supplies a deficient 
 link in the most direct and easiest route 
 between Vigo, the favourite head- 
 quarters of tourists in the Fassathal, 
 and Botzen. Before the completion of 
 that road, travellers followed a cir- 
 cuitous course, either by Deutschen- 
 ofen or by Tiers, to avoid the diffi- 
 
 culties of the Karneidthal, As tlie 
 walk by either of those places offers 
 agreeable alternatives to the pedestrian, 
 they are further noticed below. 
 
 1. By the Karneidthal, 4 hrs. on 
 foot (or rather less) to Welscheuofen. 
 About 15 m., by road, thence to Botzen. 
 The Caressa Pass (5,966') is a broad 
 opening in the irregular range of dolo- 
 mite peaks that extend along the NW. 
 side of the Avisio from near Predazzo to 
 Campidello. It is especially remark- 
 able in descending through the Val di 
 San Pelegrino (Rte. E) ; and this broad 
 opening, between the great peaks on 
 either side, seems to point this out as 
 one of the main portals between the 
 secluded VaUey of Fassa and the 
 outer world. Mohia (Ete. A) stands 
 immediately below the opening of the 
 pass, and close to the junction of the 
 little torrent that descends from it to 
 the Avisio. There is, however, a good 
 path from Vigo, mounting diagonally 
 along arid slopes composed in part of 
 Groden sandstone ; and as the latter 
 place stands higher than Moena, the 
 pass is reached in about the same time. 
 At the top is an opening, fully | m. 
 broad, between the X. extremity of the 
 Latemar range and the Kdlbleck fabout 
 8,600'), a rugged point, not very difficult 
 of access, wnich forms the southern ex- 
 tremity of the Eoseugarten range, 
 being followed to the N. by the Eothe- 
 wand. The view from it is not very 
 extensive ; but the Primiero dolomites 
 and the Cima d' Asta are well seen. 
 A broad track that runs NW. from 
 the summit of the Caressa Pass, leads 
 to Tiers (see below). The way to 
 AVelschenofen lies only a little N. of 
 true W., and presently enters a depres- 
 sion, soon converted by the action of the 
 torrent into a deep cleft. The rough 
 path descends steeply on the W. side of 
 the cleft. In 4 hrs.' easy walking the 
 traveller reaches 
 
 Wtlsch^nofen (3,868'), standing in 
 an open basin where several mountain 
 streams unite to form the Karneidhach. 
 Of three or four rough inns the Krone 
 is said to be the best. From this place,
 
 486 
 
 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 60. FASSA DISTRICT. 
 
 or from Tiers, the naturalist may best 
 explore the great western face of the 
 Rosengarten and Rothewand, so con- 
 spicuous from Botzen, which for com- 
 bined height and length may be counted 
 one of the greatest walls of rock in the 
 Alps. Johann Plauk, of this place, 
 is recommended as a guide. At Wel- 
 schenofen commences the remarkable 
 road spoken of above. The traveller, 
 by paying high, may generally procure 
 a horse and light country vehicle here, 
 but if pressed for time may do well to 
 accept the terms offered by Rizzi, the { 
 landlord of Vigo, who sends a horse 
 across the pass with the traveller's lug- 
 gage, and after a rest at Welschenofen | 
 forwards him in an einspann to Botzen, | 
 at the rather high rate of 15 fl. The 
 road, which is throughout narrow, and 
 in places very steep, is fit only for the 
 lightest vehicles. For the first hour the 
 scenery, thoiigh pleasing, is not very 
 remarkable. The red porphyry moun- 
 tains that enclose the valley offer the 
 accustomed contrast between masses of 
 parched rock and a luxuriant vegetation 
 which finds nourishment in the fissures. 
 After passing Birchbriicke, about 3 m. 
 below Welschenc.fen (inn seems better 
 than any at that place), where a torrent 
 that descends partly from the Latemar 
 range, partly from the Schwarzhorn 
 (see below), joins the Karneidbach, 
 the valley narrows gradually, and 
 before long the road enters the defile 
 which, until pierced by the new road, 
 opposed an absolute barrier to all direct 
 communication between the upper part 
 of the valley and its mouth. In its 
 own way this is as remarkable as the 
 gorge of Sottoguda (mentioned in Rte. 
 A), with the difference that the rock 
 here sustains a far more vigorous vege- 
 tation. This is not nearly so narrow a 
 cleft, but it is on a greater scale, and the 
 fact of its being traversed by a carriage- 
 road increases the effect. A short tunnel 
 is driven through an angle of the por- 
 phyry wall of the defile in one place, and 
 there are many picturesque bridges over 
 the torrent. The defile terminates ab- 
 ruptly under the wa.Us of the castle of 
 
 Karneid that stands on a rocky pro- 
 montory above the point where the Kar- 
 neidbach issues into the valley of the 
 Eisack, about 2 ra. above Botzen. 
 
 2. Bj/ Deutschenofen. This way in- 
 volves a considerable detour for a tra- 
 veller whose object is to reach Botzen ; 
 but if his aim be merely the nearest 
 station on the rly., he -will follow the 
 course noticed below to Branzoll on the 
 Adige (7m.S. of Botzen), which is easily 
 reached in 5 hrs. from Welschenofen. 
 
 Deutschenofen (4,447') is a large and 
 thriving village with an inn (beim Rossl- 
 wirth), standing on the ridge thatdivides 
 the Karneidthal from the valley of the 
 Adige. Having reached "Welschenofen 
 by the Caressa Pass, the traveller fol- 
 lows the new road for fully 3 m. to the 
 Birchbriicke, and then mounts by a 
 track that bears at first SW., then 
 nearly due W., and without any con- 
 siderable ascent reaches Deutschenofen. 
 It lies W. of the watershed, and the 
 direct course to the valley of the Adige 
 is along the Brantenbach, through a 
 glen running due W., and overlooked 
 from the village. This opens into the 
 main valley of the Adige at Leifers, 
 more than 5 m. S. of Botzen, and nearly 
 2 m. N. of Branzoll. A far more agree- 
 able way to Botzen is by a path that 
 winds among the porphyry hills between 
 Karneid and the Adige. In 4 hrs., or 
 less, the traveller reaches Botzen. To 
 avoid the unpleasant walk along the 
 hot and dusty road between Leifers and 
 Branzoll the pedestrian bound for the 
 latter place should cross the Branten- 
 bach below Deutschenofen, and follow 
 a path over a low ridge to Petersberg, 
 leaving on his 1. hand the mountain 
 monastery of Weissenstein (4,983'). A 
 path descends rapidly in 1^ hr. from 
 Petersberg to Branzoll (§ 57, Rte. A). 
 
 Deutschenofen was originally a colony 
 of German, probably Suabian, settlers, 
 who have preserved in their speech many 
 words of the early dialect of that part 
 of Germany, familiar t/3 students of the 
 Nibelunge Noth and the early Minne- 
 singers. Welschenofen, on the contrary, 
 as the name denotes, was originally
 
 ROUTE E. — PREDAZZO TO CENCENIGHE. 
 
 487 
 
 inhabited by Italian settlers, though 
 they have long since adopted the lan- 
 guage of their Grerman neighbours. 
 
 From Deutschenofen, or from a coun- 
 try inn in the hamlet adjoining the 
 monastery of Weissenstein, the traveller 
 may ascend Joeh Grimm, a mountain 
 producing many rare plants, command- 
 ing a fine view, and immediately over- 
 looking a singular crater-like hollow on 
 its W. side. By the E. slope of that moun- 
 tain he may reach the Schwarzenbach, 
 which is the SE. branch of the Karneid- 
 bach, and with a local guide, may follow 
 the torrent to the Birclibriicke. There 
 is a decent-looking country inn at that 
 place, where a belated traveller may 
 geek night-quarters. Another way from 
 Joch Grrimm is to go southward to Cava- 
 lese, only a few miles distant, either over 
 the summit of the Sckwarzkorn {7 ,986'), 
 or by either side of that mountain. 
 
 3. Bi/ Tiers. Though rarely visited 
 by strangers, Tiers (3,323') is very well 
 situated for mountain excursions, and a 
 mountaineer may well make it his head- 
 quarters for two or three days. As men- 
 tioned above, there is a track leading to 
 it from the summit of the Caressa Pass. 
 It traverses open undulating country, 
 covered with mountain pastures ; and, 
 as it passes near the W. base of the 
 range of the Rosengarten, must com- 
 mand very fine views. At its upper 
 end the Tierserthal divides into two 
 branches. One of these, called Purga- 
 metsch, descends about due W. from 
 the W. base of the Rosengarten. The 
 northern branch,the Tschaminbach, flows 
 SW. from the savage hollow between the 
 Rosszahne and the Rosengarten, men- 
 tioned in Rte. C. The track from the 
 Caressa Pass descends into the Purga- 
 metsch glen, about 1 lir. above the vil- 
 lage of Tiers. This stands rather more 
 than 1 m. below the fork of the valley. 
 The inn (beim Rosenwirth) is said to 
 afford fair accommodation, and G-eorg 
 Villgrattner is recommended as a good 
 guide. It is a short walk of 2 hrs. from 
 Tiers to Bhanau, the rly. station, 5 m. 
 above Botzen. 
 
 As mentioned in Rte. C, the Schleren 
 
 may be easily ascended from Tiers, so 
 that an active traveller, starting early 
 from Vols or Ratzes, might reach Vigo 
 on the same day by the Caressa Pass ; 
 but if not pressed for time he should 
 give a day to the exploration of one or 
 other of the upper branches of the Tiers 
 valley. On this side of the Rosengarten 
 the German popiilation has preserved 
 some vague recollection of the mythic 
 origin of the name of that mountain, 
 and often call it the ' Rosengarten of 
 King Laurin.' 
 
 ROUTB E. 
 
 PEEDAZZO TO CENCENIGHE, BY PANB- 
 VEGGIO, OE SiLN PELEGEINO. 
 
 In the last Rte. the more frequented 
 paths leading westward from the upper 
 part of the Avisio valley to that of the 
 Adige have been described. We now 
 give a brief notice of the only frequented 
 passes leading to Cencenighe, the chief 
 place in the upper part of the valley of 
 the Cordevole. These passages are 
 rarely traversed by strangers. The 
 writer is but partially acquainted with 
 either of them, and none but the briefest 
 allusions are found in any published 
 work. Yet both passes, or at least that 
 first noticed, offer very grand scenery-, 
 and, in good weather, they are quite frei 
 from difficulty, 
 
 1. By Baneveggio. In § 59, Rte. F,
 
 488 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 60. FASSA DISTRICT. 
 
 the way from Primiero to Predazzo by | 
 San Marti no di Castroz/a is described. 
 The valley descending to Predazzo is 
 rightly called Val Travignolo, but is 
 more commonly known in Fiemme as 
 Paneveggio, that name properly belong- 
 ing only to the mountain-inn, or hospice, 
 at the upper end of the valley, now 
 accessible by a good road. This mounts 
 from Predazzo along the slopes on the 
 N. side of the valley, which are covered 
 with forest, save where occasional clear- 
 ings leave space for Alpine pasture. 
 Rather more than 3 hrs. are required in 
 ascending the valley to reach 
 
 Paneveggio (6,160'), noticed in § 59, 
 Rte. B. This is a tempting spot for a 
 mountaineer, as, though more distant 
 than S. Martino di Castrozza, it is better 
 placed for several fine excursions. It 
 was from this starting-point that Mr. 
 Whitwell, with Christian Lauener, and 
 Santo Siorpaes made the first ascent of 
 the Cimon della Pala in 1870, to be re- 
 peated only by such first-rate climbers 
 as the three above named. A much 
 easier expedition — though not advisa- 
 ble for novices — is the ascent of the 
 Cima di Vezzana, the second in height 
 of the Primiero ppaks. It was reached 
 in 1872 by Messrs. D. W. Freshfield and 
 Tucker, without guides, by way of the 
 short and steep glacier lying between 
 this and the Cimon della Pala. 2 hrs. 
 climb up steep ice-slopes, requiring 
 much step -cutting, lead to the col 
 between the two peaks, whence the 
 former is easily attained. Prom the 
 col — which they named Passo di Tra- 
 vignolo — there seems to be no difficulty 
 in descending to Gares, or by bearing 
 to the rt. the plateau near the Passo 
 delle Cornelle (§ 59, Rte. L) may be 
 reached, and the descent made to S. 
 Martino and Primiero. 
 
 The ordinary way from Paneveggio 
 to Cencenighe mouuts gently for some 
 distance by a broad wood-cutter"s track, 
 passing below the alp of Guiribello, a 
 beautiful pasture with a model cascra, 
 belonging- to one of the members of the 
 Austrian Imperial family. 
 
 The way to Cencenighe soon begins 
 
 to mount to NE., above the rt. bank of 
 the Travignolo, and before long the w'ld 
 hollow through which that torrent de- 
 scends from the buse of the Cimon della 
 Pala is seen to ESE., on the rt. hand. 
 The view of that wonderful peak — the 
 Matterhom of the Dolomites — is nearly 
 equal to that from the Monte Castel- 
 lazzo. The highest alp is called Gui- 
 rihrutt, contrasting in its stony barren- 
 ness, as in name, with Guiribello. The 
 Passo di Valks (6,877') is traversed by 
 a well-traced, though not much fre- 
 quented path. Itis sometimes called For^ 
 cella di Venigia, but that name properly 
 belongs to a hunter's pass lying some- 
 what farther south, and rather higher 
 than the ordinary way. In less than 
 an hour from the summit the traveller 
 reaches Falcade (4,287'), where Indian 
 corn is grown at a very nnusual height. 
 The head of the valley of the Biois lies 
 amidst rocks of red porphyry and other 
 igneous rocks which are conveyed by 
 that torrent to the valley of the Corde- 
 vole. The most direct track from Pal- 
 cade to Cencenighe keeps to the 1. bank 
 of the Biois, leaving on the opposite 
 side the village of Forno di Canale 
 (3,204'), standing at the opening of the 
 glt-n of Gares (§ 59, Rte. L), and pos- 
 sessing a fair country inn, probably as 
 good as that at Cencenighe (§ 61, 
 Rte. C). 8 hrs. ought to suffice for 
 reaching the latter place from Predazzo. 
 2. Bg the Passo di San Pdegrino 
 (6,619'). By road to Moena, 6 m. ; 
 thence to Cencenighe, 6 hrs. on foot, 
 exclusive of halts. This way, which is 
 that commonly adopted by the natives, 
 isfar from rivalling that above described 
 in scenic beauty, but is not wanting in 
 attractions of a less wild and fantastic 
 character. The Val di San Pelegrino is 
 parallel in its course to Val Travignolo, 
 but shorter and more open. Th« forests 
 leave wider gaps of mountain pasture, 
 and the slope of the Riceobetta (Rte. A), 
 formed of Monzoni syenite, is in great 
 part bare of timber. On the ascent to 
 the Passo di San Pelegrino, at the head 
 of the valley, the traveller passes a 
 chapel, and a rude mountain inD» or
 
 ROUTE F. — VAL OMBRETTA. 
 
 489 
 
 refuge, where refreshments may be ob- 
 tained. According . to the accurate 
 Trinker, the height of the pass is 6,619 
 ft. ; but the new edition of Schaubach 
 (usually very correct in this district) 
 gives 6,269 ft. In fine weather a guide 
 is scarcely necessary to find the way to 
 the summit, nor to follow the somewhat 
 beaten track that descends to Faicade. 
 
 ROUTB F. 
 
 CAPRILE TO VIGO, BY THE FOECEI-LA 
 DI OMBRETTA. 
 
 About 10 hrs.' moderate walking, exclusive 
 of halts. 
 
 This may be considered as a mere 
 variation on the ordinary course from 
 Vigo to Caprile by the Fedaya Pass, 
 but it is so little known, and so full of 
 attractions of the highest order, that it 
 is here described under a separate 
 heading, in the hope of attracting to it 
 the attention of travellers. It involves 
 the passage of a good deal of rough 
 ground, and is for moderate walkers a 
 full day's work, but there is no real 
 difficulty in the way. Taking into ac- 
 count the wonderful variety of grand 
 and beautiful scenes that follow iu 
 
 constant succession throughout the way, 
 the writer is inclined to reckon this 
 amongst the very finest excursions in 
 this region of the Alps. It will gene- 
 rally be best enjoyed by starting very 
 early from Caprile, as the Marmolata 
 is more frequently clear in the early 
 part of the day. In clear weather a 
 practised mountaineer does not require 
 the aid of a local guide, and it would 
 not be easy to find at Caprile a man 
 acquainted with the entire route here 
 described. 
 
 The way to the Fedaya Pass (Ete. 
 A) is followed through the gorge 
 of the Serai, but scon after emer- 
 ging from that singular cleft the ordi- 
 nary track is left to ascend through the 
 branch of the valley called Val Pet- 
 torina, and a cattle-track is followed 
 that mounts nearly due W. through 
 Val Ombretta. As to another track, 
 which goes SW., by the S. side of the 
 Sasso Vernale (9,8'lo'\ and leads to the 
 head of the Val di San Pelegrino, the 
 writer has obtained no reliable informa- 
 tion. 
 
 l''al Ombretta is a hollow trough ly- 
 ing immediately at the base of the vast 
 mural precipices on the S. side of the 
 Marmolata, which rise above it to a 
 height averaging about 3,000 ft. Pass- 
 ing at first along the S. base of the 
 Saranta, it is necessary to climb a high 
 step that separates the upper basin of 
 Val Ombretta from the lower part, into 
 which the traA'eller has entered. There 
 is a circuitous track for cattle, but the 
 direct way is up a rocky declivity, 
 where progress is made less difi&cult 
 at the steepest part, by some pine 
 trunks laid diagonally against the face 
 of the wall, at a point where the bota- 
 nist may gather fine specimens of Ar- 
 ternism lanata. Above this is the high- 
 est shepherd's hut, and then the tra- 
 veller enters the upper basin or trough, 
 over which the majestic precipices of 
 the Marmolata rise in surpassing gran- 
 deur. 
 
 In approaching the "W. end of the 
 trough, where it is barred across by a 
 ridge connecting the Marmolata with
 
 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § GO. FASSA DISTRICT. 
 
 490 
 
 the Sasso Vernale that rises on the rt. 
 hand, the traveller is struck by the 
 contrast of the black colour of this 
 ridge with the light grey and pink of 
 the dolomite masses that surround him. 
 The ridge is formed of decomposed 
 melaphyre, or black porphyry, or per- 
 haps\as the writer suspects), of a rock 
 formed by the imperfect consolidation 
 of masses of volcanic sand and scoriae, 
 ejected contemporaneously with that 
 ancient lava. Be that as it may, this 
 is one of thove places where, in toiling 
 up the rat^her steep slope, with the feet 
 sinking in soft black sand, the recollec- 
 tion of the final cone of Etna and 
 Vesuvius is forcibly brought back to 
 the traveller. The Forcella di Val Om- 
 bretta (9,052' Grohmann) has been 
 vaguely known by various names. Val 
 Ombretta, and the highest part of the 
 Contrin valley on the W. side of the 
 pass having both been known as Val 
 Fredda, the pass has been called ' Passo 
 di Val Fredda ' ; and German travellers 
 have also named it Contrin Joch. On 
 quitting the volcanic formation, which 
 extends but a short way, the traveller 
 descends into a wild hollow filled with 
 masses of dolomite fallen from the crags 
 of the Marmolata, and patches of un- 
 melted snow forming little pools of 
 half-frozen water. The easiest way 
 lies to the rt., close under the ridge of 
 the Marmolata. Finally, after passing 
 over a good deal of rough ground, the 
 traveller reaches a point where he must 
 choose between two different courses in 
 order to attain his destination. He 
 here overlooks the glen of Contrin, 
 through which a torrent flows NW., to 
 join the Avisio near the head of Val di 
 Fassa, between Alba and Penia. That 
 is the easiest way for reaching the main 
 valley ; but in going to Vigo it involves 
 a considerable detour, and the walk 
 between Campidello and that place is 
 not very interesting. The other course 
 is to traverse the ridge that divides 
 Contrin from the Monzoni valley, and 
 descend through the latter to Pozza 
 near Vigo. By bearing to the 1. as 
 Boon as the nature of the ground makes 
 
 it advisable to do so, and crossing the 
 Contrin torrent high up, the ascent to 
 the second ridge is reduced within very 
 moderate limits. In the ascent, a group 
 of arollas {Pimis cembra) is seen at 
 the unusual height of about 7,570 ft. 
 In Val Ombretta, the larch reaches to 
 7,500 ft. ; and a single stunted tree was 
 noticed 150 ft. higher. Throughout the 
 ascent the view looking back at the Mar- 
 molata is extremely grand. The writer 
 thinks it not impossible that the ascent 
 may be achieved from this side. A slight 
 ledge indicating a crack or fault in the 
 strata runs diagonally upwards to a 
 notch in the ridge some way below, and 
 W., of the highest peak. There is a 
 path, slightly traced, that leads to the 
 summit of the ridge over Contrin, about 
 6,000 ft. in height, and it there joins a 
 broad deserted track that seems to havo 
 been made for the passage of carts with 
 timber, cheese, &c., from the sennhutten 
 of Contrin to the lower part of Val di 
 Fassa. This zigzags down the long, 
 steep, and uniform slope that leads to 
 the main branch of the Monzoni valley. 
 The pedestrian should descend these 
 slopes in a direct line for the bottom of 
 the valley, without attempting to cross 
 a projecting buttress on the rt. hand. 
 Walking steadily, the writer reached 
 Vigo in 2 hrs. 20 min. from the summit 
 of the pass. The Monzoni valley, full 
 of interest to the naturalist, is further 
 noticed in Rte. A. 
 
 [It is probably by the way noticed 
 above that jMr. Tuckett early in the 
 season made his third ascent of the 
 Marmolata. He found little difficulty 
 in following the ridge, then covered 
 with snow. Another party going at a 
 later season found the rocks bare of 
 snow, decidedly difficult and somewhat 
 unsafe.]
 
 ROUTE G. THE GRODNERTHAL. 
 
 491 
 
 Route G. 
 
 botzbk to bet7xeck, by the grobxeb- 
 t ttat. and gaderthal. 
 
 The formation of the mountains in 
 this district makes it very difficult to 
 describe it in an intelligible manner. 
 Instead of being distributed in definite 
 ridges, they form isolated peaks, or 
 larger blocks of high land, divided by 
 comparatirely deep depressions from 
 the adjoining masses. Hence passes, 
 for the most part easy of access, are 
 very numerous, and the traveller may 
 here vary his routes to an indefinite ex- 
 tent. This observation holds especially 
 as to the district north of the head of 
 Yal di Fassa, where the drainage is ir- 
 regularly distributed between the.Avisio 
 and the Cordevole on the S. side, and 
 the torrents which flow to the Eisack 
 through the G-rodnerthal, or to the 
 Eienz through the G-aderthal. The four 
 valleys, whose highest sources diverge 
 from a single huge block of mountain 
 including the Sella-Spitz, and Monte 
 Pordoi, are connected by many passes, 
 most of which are noticed in the fol- 
 lowing Etps. ; while in the present Rte. 
 we give a short description of the two 
 chief valleys that drain the northern 
 part of this district, as they may be 
 visited by a traveller pressed for time, 
 ■who takes them on his way between 
 Botzen and Bruneck in Pusterthal. 
 
 The Grodnerthal is a comparatively 
 short valley, about 18 m. in length, that 
 pours its torrent into the Eisack at 
 Waidbruck, opposite Kollmann, on the 
 Eisack, where there is now a rly. sta- 
 tion (§ 49, Ete. B). The lower part of 
 the valley is a narrow and hot defile, 
 the scenery of which scarcely rises to 
 grandeur. It is slow work to walk, and 
 quite equally so to mount in a carriage 
 along the new road that is carried along 
 
 the N. slope of the valley to Plan at ita 
 upper end, so that most travellers prefer 
 either of the alternative courses men- 
 tioned below. The upper part of the 
 valley being at a great height above the 
 Eisack, a very long ascent is required 
 to reach St. Peter, the first village, after 
 which a gentler ascent leads to St. 
 Ulrich (4,058'), the chief place in the 
 valley, with two inns (zum Goldenen 
 Adler; zum Weissen Eoss), both sup- 
 plying ver}- fair accommodation. By 
 the new road, St. Ulrich is 8 m. from 
 Waidbruck, and 6 m. from Plan, where 
 the road comes to an end at the upper 
 end of the valley. 
 
 The appearance of comfort and well- 
 being in a relatively numerous popula- 
 tion that inhabit the upper part of this 
 valley indicates the existence of a special 
 branch of industry. The art of carving 
 figures of men and animals in the wood 
 of the Hnus cembra (Germ. Zirbenholz) 
 was introduced here early in the last 
 century, and has maintained itself ever 
 since. Children's toys, and the figures 
 of saints, are objects chiefly represented ; 
 and a considerable trade, extending to 
 the most distant parts of Europe, has 
 held its ground amidst changes of 
 fashion. Many natives wander abroad 
 retailing these articles in distant places, 
 but after gaining a competence, usually 
 return to settle in their native valley. 
 The fabrication of lace has also been of 
 late years introduced here. 
 
 It has been said in the introduction 
 to this section that the people of this 
 valley and those of the adjoining Ga- 
 derthal speak a dialect (locally called 
 Ladin) which has considerable affinity 
 with the Eomantsch of the E. of Switz^- 
 erland, and especially the form of that 
 language spoken in the Engadine, It 
 is a singular fact that there are well- 
 marked differences, both grammatical 
 and lexicographical, between the dia- 
 lects of these two adjoining valleys, 
 indicating kinship rather than identity 
 of stock. This fact lends colour to the 
 belief that these vallevs were colonised 
 during the period of Eoman rule. But 
 I a previously established Ehaetian popu-
 
 492 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § CO. FASSA DISTRICT. 
 
 lation must have been driven out to 
 make way for the Southern settlers. 
 Supposed Ehaetian antiquities have been 
 discovered at many places in S. Tyrol, 
 and amongst otliers close to the village 
 of St. Ulrich. Since 1848, a large num- 
 ber of ancient graves have been found 
 scattered over a level tract, about 40 
 acres in extent, less than 1 m. above 
 St. Ulrich. Those who are interested 
 in the subject should apply to Herr 
 Purger, an intelligent native of the 
 valley, the largest dealer in carved wood 
 articles, who has collected many of the 
 objects extracted from these graves. 
 
 In the Grodnerthal, all the men, and 
 most of the younger women, now speak 
 some German, but it is best to use the 
 local names for places. In the native 
 dialect the valley is called Gardena, and 
 St. Ulrich is known as Ortiseit. This 
 place supplies convenient head-quar- 
 ters for many excursions, and the Seisser 
 Alp, or even the Schleren, may be visited 
 from hence. But most travellers will 
 prefer to take Eatzes and the Sohleren 
 on their way from Botzen to the Grod- 
 nerthal. Those who have already as- 
 cended the Schleren may take an in- 
 termediate and very agreeable course 
 from Botzen to St, Ulrich, by Cas- 
 telruth (Castelrotto),* a large and pro- 
 sperous village, much resorted to in 
 the soymnerfrisch season by persons 
 who seek more comfortable houses than 
 are found in most of the mountain vil- 
 lages of this district. It has two inns 
 (Lamm ; Goldene Rossi), both above 
 the average of country inns in this dis- 
 trict. It is only 2 m. distant from Seiss, 
 and being within easy reach of the 
 plateau of the Seisser Alp, would be a 
 pleasant place for a retreat during hot 
 weather. The easiest way from Castel- 
 ruth to St. Ulrich keeps along the base 
 of the northern escarpment of the 
 Seisser Alp, and by that way the dis- 
 tance is accomplished in less than 3 hrs. 
 Those who are not pressed for time 
 should make a detour by the Seisser Alp, 
 
 • In this and the following Rtes. the Ladin 
 names, as far as known to the writer, are 
 added within brackets. 
 
 reaching one of the prominent points 
 that commands a magnificent view, and 
 then descend by Pujls, and through a 
 ravine that leads to the Grodner torrent, 
 beyond which stands St. Ulrich. 
 
 Another variation on the common 
 way to St. Ulrich is suited for those 
 approaching the valley from the side of 
 Brixen, who wish to explore an iinfre- 
 quented valley. At Klausen (see § 49, 
 Rte. A), in the valley of the Eisack, 
 the traveller passing in the rly. carriage 
 scarcely perceives the opening of the 
 Villnosthcd. Though rarely traversed 
 by a stranger, this valley, once pre- 
 served as a deer-forest by the Counts of 
 Tyrol, sustains a thriving and indus- 
 trious population. There is a tolerable 
 road from Klausen to St. Peter, the 
 chief village, said to have a good inn. 
 This way is interesting to the geologist, 
 and those who have time may gain a 
 remarkably fine panoramic view from 
 the Easchetz AJp (7,476'), whence St. 
 Ulrich is reached in 2^ hrs, 
 
 In visiting the upper part of the 
 Grodnerthal, and the passes connecting 
 it with the neighbouring valleys, the 
 traveller will encounter even more than 
 the usual diificulty in identifying the 
 names of the surrounding mountains, 
 glens, and even the well-known passes. 
 No doubt the confusion of dialects has 
 aggravated this inconvenience. It may 
 be right to say here that Mayr's map of 
 Tyrol, which is in the hands of many 
 travellers, is generally less correct in 
 this region than in the central range of 
 Tyrol. In some places, and especially 
 at the head of the valley of the Corde - 
 vole, it is hopelessly wrong, and can do 
 nothing but mislead those who trust to it. 
 About 2h ra. above St. Ulrich is St. 
 Christina (with a fair country inn, kept 
 by Dossis). Here the La7i(/l-of el (10,392'), 
 always a striking object from wliatever 
 side it be seen, assumes an aspe<;t of 
 extreme grandeur, which impressed the 
 minds of the earliest travellers who 
 visited this region, and who little sus- 
 pected that this is but one among a 
 large number of dolomite peaks of equal 
 or greater height that rival it in th«
 
 ROUTE G. — ABTF.ITHAL. 
 
 493 
 
 fantastic beauty and "wildness of its 
 aspect. The last hamlet in the valley 
 is Sfa. Maria (5,129'), 2 hrs. from St. 
 Ulrich, \nth a small and poor inn, 
 standing at the junction of the Lang- 
 enthal with the main branch of the 
 Grodnerthal. Sta. Maria is sometimes 
 called Wolkenstein, and the Langenthal 
 Wolkensteinerthal, from the neighbour- 
 ing castle of Wolkenstein, further noticed 
 below. The ordinary way to the Gader- 
 thal follows the road ESE. through the 
 proper head of the Grodnerthal; and this 
 comes to an end little more than 1 m. 
 above Sta. Maria at P/a??, where there 
 is a poor inn, in which the writer long 
 ago found a hospitable reception when 
 the present occupants were children. 
 A short and easy ascent of little more 
 than 1 hr. leads to the Colfosco Pass 
 (7,042'), or Grbdner Joch^ the easiest 
 pass between the Grodnerthal and Gti- 
 derthal, commanding a noble view of 
 the peaks near the Ampezzo Pass, seen 
 above the intermediate ranges. Here- 
 abouts, in addition to many of the cha- 
 racteristic plants of this region, the bota- 
 nist may find the rare Soyeria montana 
 The pass lies between two remarkable 
 mountain masses, to which the student 
 of Richthofen's geological writings on 
 this district will find frequent reference. 
 The northern mass, lying in the angle 
 between the valleys named above, is 
 called by Richthofen the Guerdenazza 
 Plateau. It is the more extensive, but 
 being cleft by several deep glens, and 
 very irregular in its contour, it does 
 not exhibit such characteristic features 
 as the so-called Sella Plateau on the S. 
 side of the pass. From most points of 
 view this shows as a vast fortress, built 
 on a Titanic scale, with ramparts rising 
 from 2,000 to 3,000 ft. above the curtain 
 of pine forest that encompasses their 
 base. But one of the higher summits 
 seems to have been measured. The Monte 
 Pordoi attains 10,333 ft. according to 
 the Kataster. This is apparently the 
 Bame peak which is called Boe at the 
 head of the Gaderthal, and was ascended 
 by Dr. Grohmann, who makes the height 
 10,341 ft. 
 
 The descent towards the Gaderthal 
 is rather steeper than the western slope 
 of the pass, but the sadly thinned pine- 
 forest is soon reached, and traversed ; 
 and the way lies between fields of barley 
 and rye, here grown at an unusual ele- 
 vation, before reaching Colfosco (5,421'), 
 or Colfuschk, the highest village in this 
 branch of the Gaderthal, about 8 hrs. 
 from the "Waidbruck station. There is 
 no tolerable inn here, and those who 
 seek night-quarters must go to Corfara, 
 scarcely half an hour's walk, though 
 lying in a separate branch of the valley. 
 At a small group of honses called Pes- 
 costa, a short distance below Colfosco, 
 I the torrent from that place joins that 
 fr.jm Corfara (see next Rte.), and the 
 united stream flows NE. through the 
 Corfarathal. In 1 hr., descending along 
 the 1. bank of the torrent, the traveller 
 reaches Stern, where this unites with 
 the main branch of the Gader, which 
 henceforward, to near its junction with 
 the Rienz, follows a course little di- 
 verging from due N. There is much 
 confusion as to the nomenclature of the 
 main valley and its tributaries. The 
 names Gaderthal, Abteithal, and Enne- 
 berg are indiscriminately applied by 
 strangers, and sometimes even by na- 
 tives, to the entire valley. Correctly, 
 however, the names Enneherg should be 
 reserved for the SE. branch of the valley, 
 also known as Vigilthal, or Mareo in the 
 Ladin dialect. Above Zwischenwassern, 
 where that joins the main S. branch, 
 the latter is called Abteithal, though 
 this designation is specially reserved 
 for the upper end above St. Leonhard. 
 The name Gaderthal in its restricted 
 sense applies only to the lower valley 
 below the junction of its two main 
 branches, but we only follow common 
 usage in applying it collectively to the 
 entire district drained by the stream 
 of the Gader. Less than 1 hr. below 
 Stern the traveller, after crossing to the 
 rt. bank of the torrent, reaches 
 
 St. Levahard (4,456'), where a few 
 houses are gathered round the church and 
 the inn. The latter supplies fair accom- 
 modation. The name of the commune,
 
 4^4 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS, § 60. FASSA DISTRICT. 
 
 including many scattered hamlets, of 
 which this is the centre, is Ahtei {Badia). 
 This gives its name to the upper valley, 
 and to its inhabitants, often called 
 Badiotes. This neighbourhood has suf- 
 fered much from landslips on a large 
 scale, differing from Berg falls in the 
 more gradual nature of the process. The 
 traces, on a small scale, of a recent event 
 of this kind, are seen near Pescosta, and 
 a much more considerable catastrophe, 
 involving the destruction of many houses 
 and more than 100 acres of land, occurred 
 in 1821 between Stern and St.Leonhard. 
 To the traveller descending the valley 
 who has left behind him the striking 
 scenery of the higher dolomite peaks, 
 the route from St. Leonhard to St. 
 Lorenzen will appear somewhat tame. 
 The short lateral glens on either side 
 offer many interesting scenes whose 
 existence is not suspected by one who 
 merely keeps to the regular track. As a 
 general rule, rough country inns are 
 found at all the villages and hamlets by 
 the way. The best quarters, after St. 
 lieonhard, are at Zwischenwassern and 
 Saalen. The distance to St. Lorenzen 
 (which is about 2 m. from Bruneck on 
 the high-road from Brixen) is counted 
 6^ hrs. The remarkable church, ' zum 
 Heiligen Kreuz,' often visited from St. 
 Leonhard, is noticed below. 
 
 The frequented track from St. Leon- 
 hard to the lower part of the Gaderthal 
 keeps to the E. side of the valley, often 
 at a great height above the torrent, but 
 at times descending close to the stream. 
 A short way below the village begins a 
 steep descent over a mass of black por- 
 phyry (melaphyre) that sustains the 
 upper basin of the Abteithal, at the base 
 of which the Pontalg torrent runs west- 
 ward through a deep cleft to join the 
 G-ader. Then a short reach of level 
 ground leads to Pederowa, where there 
 are a few houses and an inn. The in- 
 teresting way fi'om thence to St. Vigil, 
 by Wengen, is noticed in the next Ete. 
 The next place is Pre Romang, nearly 
 opposite the opening of the Campiler- 
 thal, further noticed below. Above it is 
 seen the peak of the 
 
 PeitlerJcofel (9,422'), the northernmost 
 of the dolomite peaks of the Gaderthal. 
 A short distance farther the traveller 
 reaches Picolein (3,662'). On the op- 
 posite side of the valley is the hamlet of 
 St. Martin, the chief place in this part 
 of the valley. It .stands below the ruined 
 castle of Thurn (whose records are full 
 of grim memories of mediaeval ferocity), 
 on the site of a church which, with the 
 adjoining houses, was destroyed by a 
 landslip. The track keeps to the rt. 
 bank, passing opposite the opening of 
 the lateral glen of Untermoi. 
 
 [From the little village of Untermoi, 
 about 1 hr. above the opening of this 
 glen, a path mounts over the ridge of 
 the Cartazerherg (7,208') to the upper 
 end of the Lusenthal. Through that 
 secluded valley, which descends west- 
 ward with a ciirve convex to the N., the 
 Lasankabach flows to join the Rienz 
 in the remarkable cleft near Brixen, 
 noticed in § 52, Ete. A. On the way 
 from Untermoi to Brixen, a walk of 7 
 or 8 hrs., is the village of Lilsen (3,040'), 
 with an inn, and a fine church contain- 
 ing a curious ancient chapel. Below 
 the village the valley is narrowed to a 
 deep impassable cleft between rocks of 
 mica-schist, and the best way to Brixen 
 is by the heights on the S. side. Easy 
 passes connect the head of the Liisen- 
 thal with that of the Vilnosthal, men- 
 tioned above, and by that way Klausen 
 may be reached from Untermoi in about 
 the same time as Brixen. There are 
 paths leading to Liisen from Welschel- 
 len and Onach ; but they are said to be 
 more laborious than that from Unter- 
 moi.] After passing opposite Untermoi 
 the track from PicoJein, practicable for 
 country veliicles, keeps along the slopes 
 at a great height above the Gader, which 
 has cut a deep cleft in the bottom of the 
 valley. At one point the torrent, form- 
 ing a loop, has almost isolated a steep 
 rock on which stands a solitary house, 
 called Klein-Venedig. On a terrace of 
 the mountain above the 1. bank, oppo- 
 site to the road, stands Welschellen 
 (4,659'), surrounded with cornfields. 
 The road now approaches the junction
 
 ROUTE G. — GUERDENAZZA PLATEAU. 
 
 495 
 
 of the two main branches of the valley, 
 and descends rather steeply to 
 
 Zwischcnv-assern (Limghiega), a-hamlet 
 where there is annually a large cattle- 
 fair and a tolerable inn. It is often 
 called Flaiken {Friisckia), but that is 
 the name of the chief place of the com- 
 mune, standing high above the valley, 
 on the slope of the mountain dividing 
 the Enneberg from the Abteithal. Below 
 the junction the main branch of the 
 Graderthal preserves the character of a 
 cleft ; and the road again ascends, after 
 traversing the Vigilbach, and runs along 
 the slopes E. of the valley. At Saalen 
 is an inn praised by German writers, 
 either for its intrinsic qualities, or be- 
 cause this is the first hamlet where the 
 native idiom gives place to German. 
 The latter prevails in the lower part of 
 the valley. On the opposite slope is 
 Onach (3,795'), whence runs the path, 
 already noticed, by the Liisenthal to 
 Brixen. On approaching the junction 
 of the Gaderthal with the Pusterthal, 
 the road keeps high up on the slope 
 above the rt. bank of the stream. On 
 the opposite side a transverse ridge, 
 parallel to the Pusterthal, seems to bar 
 the course of the valley, forcing the 
 Gader to turn abruptly to the- rt. at 
 Monthal (2.851'), and to follow a course 
 little N. of E., till it reaches the Rienz 
 a short way from St. Lorenzen {% 52, 
 Ete. A), whither the road descends in 
 about 6^ hrs. from St. Leonhard. 
 
 A traveller bound fcrUntervintl should 
 follow the 1. bank of the Gader, and 
 take an agreeable path from Monthal 
 by the castle of Ehrrnhu.rg, one of the 
 most famous in this district. The foun- 
 dations are believed to be Roman, and 
 the masonry shows the work of many 
 succeeding centuries. 
 
 There are at least two passes besides 
 that described above, by which the Ga- 
 derthal may be reached from Groden, 
 without much lengthening the way. 
 The most interesting of these is that 
 called Cresfcna Jock by Messrs. Gilbert 
 and Churchill. The way to it is by 
 the Langenthal, which joins the main 
 branch of the Grodnerthal at Sta. Maria. 
 
 This is an extremely picturesque glen, 
 wherein smooth .slopes of Alpine pas- 
 ture are enclosed between walls and 
 towers of rock, forming a sort of 
 giant street leading to the interior 
 recesses of the dolomite region. The 
 castle of Wolkensteln, the cradle of 
 a still exifctiug noble family, whose 
 name was made famous in mediaeval 
 literature as well as in arms by the 
 minnesanger, Oswald v. Wolkenstein, is 
 built up against the face of a vertical 
 cliff, and was accessible only by steps 
 hewn in the rock. Beyond the castle is 
 a chapel, but the glen appears to be 
 uninhabited. At its head it is gra- 
 dually contracted to a ravine, or couloir, 
 through which a faintly marked path 
 mounts over white debris of splintered 
 dolomite. At the summit the traveller 
 reaches a narrow ridge whence another 
 ravine of the same character descends 
 on the opposite side, but, by bearing to 
 the 1., he presently reaches the high 
 table-land of bare rock to which Richt- 
 hofen has given the name Guerdenazza 
 Plateau. The dolomite of this and the 
 upper part of the Sella plateau belongs 
 to the lias formation, and is of much 
 later origin than that prevailing in the 
 Fassa valley. The bare rock of the 
 plateau retains no indications of a path, 
 and the assistance of a guide is indis- 
 pensable in order to hit the spots whence 
 it is possible to descend. By bearing a 
 little N. of due E., a very steep way 
 down broken crags takes the traveller 
 to St. Leonhard, where he joins the 
 main track through the Gaderthal. 
 
 A rather more varied and interesting 
 way lies across the plateau towards NE., 
 whereby the traveller reaches the head 
 of the Campilerthal, one of the finest 
 lateral glens of that valley. It con- 
 tains the rather considerable village of 
 Campil {Lungiaru) — 4,587ft. above the 
 sea — with a country inn. NAV. of the 
 village rises the Pe-iY/e?7t-fi/'g/( 9,4*22'), the 
 summit of which is reached in 5 hrs. 
 from the inn. The last climb is said to 
 be difficult, and fit only for practised 
 mountaineers. There is a direct and 
 easy way from Campil to Klausen, on
 
 496 
 
 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 60. FASSA DISTRICT. 
 
 the Eisack, by the Vilnosthal, and also 
 a pass to the Liisenthal. From the 
 lower part of the Langentlial there is 
 a -way to Colfosco by the Puetz Alp, 
 Bcarcely longer than that of Colfosco 
 Pass already described. 
 
 There are numerous mineral springs 
 in the main branch of the G-aderthal 
 and its tributary glens. The utter M-ant 
 of decent accommodation makes most 
 of them impracticable for foreigners. 
 The most frequented is that of Eam- 
 wald, near the opening of the valley, and 
 not far from Onach. 
 
 EOUTE H. 
 
 BETTKECK TO CORTINA d' AMPEZZO, BY 
 PASSES AT THE HEAD OF THE GADEE- 
 THAL, 
 
 Although it involves some trespass 
 over the limits of the district described 
 in the next section, it seems convenient 
 to bring together under one heading 
 several passes that lead from Bruneck 
 to Cortina, which is the natural head- 
 quarters of that district. Besides their 
 intrinsic interest they are convenient 
 for travellers who after descending from 
 the High Tauern Alps to Bruneck, would 
 commence from that place a tour of the 
 Dolomite Alps. 
 
 1. By Cor far a, and Ute Tre Sassi. 12 
 hrs. to Pieve di Andraz, 5^ hrs. thence, 
 to Cortina. This is a two days' joxirney, 
 
 which is best divided at Corfara ; but the 
 accommodation is better at Pieve di 
 Andraz, and that place is easily reached 
 in one day by a traveller who takes a 
 light vehicle from Bruneck as far ns 
 Saalen or Picolein. The way lies through 
 the main branch of the Graderthal as 
 far as Stern, and thence by the western 
 branch, called Corfarathal, following 
 exactly the line described in the last 
 Kte. Leaving to the rt. the path to 
 Colfosco, a track mounts from Pee- 
 costa to Corfara (5,095'), standing in 
 a green basin a little above the junction 
 of the stream from the Colfosco Pass. 
 The inn contains one or two tolerable 
 bedrooms, but it is often ill supplied 
 with provisions. At Corfara we reach 
 the N. base of the block of high land 
 that separates the head of the Gader- 
 thal from the two uppermost branches 
 of the Cordevole. A few words on the 
 topography of this neighbourhood are 
 the more requisite as it has been much 
 confused, partly through errors in maps, 
 partly through the want of fixed usage 
 as to the names of places. 
 
 From its junction with the Piave to 
 the village of Caprile, the valley of the 
 Cordevole (described in the next sedi- 
 tion) 'belongs to Italy, and forms part 
 of the province of Belluno. Above Ca- 
 prile, the boundary between Venetia 
 and Tyrol runs for a short distance 
 along the stream of the Cordevole, 
 giving the rt. bank to Italy, and the 
 opposite side to Tyrol ; but before 
 reaching a point where the valley forks, 
 the boundary line turns first west- 
 ward, then SW. and S., following pretty 
 closely the watershed between the Cor- 
 devole on the one side, and the Avisio 
 and Cismone on the other. The Ty- 
 rolese district, at the head of the Cor- 
 devole, is called LimnaUon<io, and in- 
 cludes two branches. The longer branch 
 originates at the base of Monte Pordoi 
 (see nextRte.), and descends eastward, 
 passing Araba and Pieve di Andraz. In 
 the bottom of the deep trench which 
 the torrent has excavated below the 
 latter village it is joined by the stream 
 from the other much shorter branch of
 
 ROUTE H. — LIVINALLONGO. 
 
 497 
 
 the valley. This originates at the Val- 
 parola Alp, and descends by the castle 
 of Buchenstein, and the hamlet of the 
 same name, in a direction little W. of 
 S., to the junction -snth the main branch 
 of Livinallongo. By the German-speak- 
 ing inhabitants, the name Buchenstein 
 is given not only to the castle and the 
 hamlet below it, but often also to Pieve 
 di Andraz in the other branch of the 
 valley. In the same way the name 
 Andraz is given to all these places, by 
 the people who retain the Ladin or 
 Italian idioms. Since strangers have 
 attempted to fix the nomenclature, the 
 name Buchenstein is commonly given 
 to the NNE. branch of the valley, 
 and to the castle and hamlet. The 
 longer (western) branch is called Livin 
 
 Pordoi Pass (Rte. I) ; but it is a 
 circuitous way for one going to Pieve 
 di Andraz, and the views are infe- 
 rior to those gained by the more 
 direct path which leads to that place 
 in 3 hrs. by the Anzisa Alp. When 
 time is an object, it is well to take a 
 guide over this and the other passes 
 here referred to, as it is easy to miss 
 the shortest way. Corte, Cherz, and 
 other small groups of houses are passed 
 in descending to 
 
 Pieve di Andraz (4,842'), the chief 
 place in Livinallongo, and the only one 
 above Caprile where a traveller fijids 
 tolerable accommodation. Two, if not 
 three, country inns are all kept by one 
 of thename Finazzer. The best (veryto- 
 
 1 . - 
 
 :lerable) is that of Luigi F. with a sign 
 
 allongo, and its chief village Pieve di ; (bunch of grapes) in the little piazza. The 
 
 Andraz, and sometimes Pieve di Li- | situation of the little village is singular. 
 
 vinallongo. The mountain mass over iThe available space being very limited, 
 
 which the traveller passes from the ' many of the houses, including the inn, 
 
 Gaderthal to Livinallongo rises into I are built on the very verge of the 
 
 several summits, of which the most ! precipitous slope overlooking the bed 
 
 prominent are the Set Sass (8,396'), j of the torrent. Being near the fork of 
 
 also called Monte Zissa, and the Col di the valley, the village overlooks the 
 
 Lana (8,176'), the latter rising in the 
 angle between the valleys of Livinal- 
 longo and Buchenstein. The greater 
 part of the mass in question is, how- 
 ever, a rolling plateau of green Alpine 
 pasture furrowed in places by ravines. 
 Lying in a central position, surrounded 
 by many of the highest summits of the 
 Dolomite Alps, this plateau commands 
 exquisite views. 
 
 In a waking or sleeping dream of 
 peaks of wonder and beauty, the moun- 
 taineer can scarcely surpass the circle 
 that includes the Tofana, Malcora, An- 
 telao, Pelmo, and Civetta, which rise 
 on the E. side of the Cordevole valley. 
 Above the nearer range the snow-clad 
 Marmolata asserts its pre-eminence, 
 while, nearer at hand, the Pordoi, and 
 many others, complete the panorama. 
 The shortest way from Corfara to Li- 
 vinallongo is by a pass called Cavipo- 
 Zz<n^o(6,200'),leadingin2^hrs.toAraba. 
 This is the most direct for a traveller 
 going to Campidello in Fassa, as he 
 joins at Araba the path over the 
 
 deep cleft through which the Cordevole 
 flows to the Italian frontier at Caprile. 
 
 The traveller who may halt at this 
 place should ascend the Col di Lana 
 (8,176'), rising NXE. of the village. It 
 must command a very remarkable view. 
 Not less interesting would be the ascent 
 of the Padon (8,878'). the highest sum- 
 mit of the range dividing Livinallongo 
 from Fedaya, It is the best spot for 
 viewing the Marmolata, but many tra- 
 vellers will be satisfied -Rith the view 
 from the Forcella di Padon, noticed ij> 
 Ete. I. 
 
 A new char-road, very rough on this 
 side, has been opened from Pieve to 
 Cortina. At first it winds round the 
 slope above the junction of the torrent 
 from Buchenstein with the main source 
 of the Cordevole. The poor hamlet of 
 Buchenstein, or Andraz, with an un- 
 promising inn kept by G. Finazzer, is 
 nearly 3 m. from La Pieve. Here the 
 road crosses to the I. bank of the stream 
 and ascends for H m. to the ruined 
 Castle of Buchenstein (5,892'). The
 
 498 
 
 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 60. FASSA DISTRICT. 
 
 building is ugly, but the position wild 
 and striking. Soon after passing the 
 castle, the road to Cortina turns aside 
 to ascend eastward over the pass known 
 as the Tre Sassi (7,073'), There are, 
 however, many paths, made by wood- 
 cutters or herdsmen, which shorten the 
 way, and the solitary traveller should 
 beware of short-cuts except by local 
 advice. If he begin the ascent too soon, 
 he will lose much time. The way lies 
 by the S. side of Monte Tofana (see § 61, 
 Ete. C), and conducts the traveller near 
 to the base of some of the grand crags of 
 that mountain, but its higher peaks are 
 not seen from the path. The ascent 
 to the Tre Sassi from the castle of 
 Buchenstein is short and easy ; but the 
 descent on the opposite side, though 
 still easier, is rather long. When clouds 
 do not cover the surrounding peaks, 
 beautiful views are gained by the way, 
 and though 4 hrs. from Buchenstein 
 are more than sufficient, most travellers 
 will linger by the way. The route is, 
 however, more interesting when the 
 traveller goes this way from Cortina to 
 La Pieve. On a fine evening the views 
 of the Pelmo, Civetta, and Marmolata 
 are not likely ever to be forgotten. 
 
 The commune of Cortina has under- 
 taken to build an inn near the summit 
 of the pass, which is to be opened in 1873. 
 
 2. Bt/ Sf. Cassian and the Valparola 
 Alp. 8^ liTS. to St. Cassian ; about 
 6j hrs. thence to Cortina. This way is 
 considerably shorter than that by Pieve 
 di i\_ndraz, and the scenery decidedly 
 less interesting; but for the geologist 
 St. Cassian is a place of extreme inte- 
 rest, and it is easy to take it on the way 
 to La Pievo by a course noticed below, 
 no longer than that by Corfara. 
 
 As mentioned in the last Ete., the 
 Abteithal, or main branch of the Gader- 
 thal, forks at Stern about 1 hr. above 
 St. Leonhard. The two branches are 
 about equal, but the SE. branch is con- 
 sidered to be the continuation of the 
 main valley, and tlie torrent preserves 
 the name Gader. 
 
 St. Cassian (5,087') stands about h hr. 
 above the fork of the valley. Though a 
 
 small place, the massive houses are well 
 built, and have a stately air unusual 
 in a remote Alpine village. The inn, 
 however, is a poor place, and travellers 
 find, or formerly did find, accommoda- 
 tion at the priest's house. St. Cassian 
 is celebrated for the variety and beauty 
 of the marine fossils which occiir abun- 
 dantly in the marly deposit forming 
 the slopes surrounding the village. This 
 apprars to be a portion of those beds of 
 marine origin in which volcanic ashes 
 enter as a large component, and which 
 are extensively developed in this dis- 
 trict. The fossils are apparently the 
 remains of animals inhabiting a shallow 
 sea which were destroyed during periods 
 of violent eruption, and partially buried 
 in the deposits of ashes that fell at the 
 same time. The fossils are found most 
 abundantly on the slopes towards the 
 head of the valley after a heavy fall of 
 rain, when the lighter parts of the 
 superficial stratum are washed away, 
 leaving the fossils on the surface. Spe- 
 cimens are usually to be purchased at a 
 reasonable rate from people in or near 
 the village. 
 
 There is a very agreeable way from 
 St. Cassian to Pieve di Andraz by the 
 pass of Stuore, or Prelungei (7,061'), 
 about 3| hrs. The path joins that from 
 Corfara, noticed above, in the descent to 
 La Pieve. In the ascent from St. Cas- 
 sian, the traveller passes over some of 
 the best ground for fossil-hunting. 
 
 The direct way to Cortina follows the 
 torrent to the head of the valley, and 
 ascends gently to the ridge of the Val- 
 parola Alp overlooking the head of the 
 Buchenstein valley. Descending but 
 little, the path passes round the upper 
 end of that glen, and joins the Tre Sassi 
 track not far from the summit. 
 
 There is a track, as to which the 
 writer has no details, which turns east- 
 ward from the valley above St. Cassian, 
 and reaches Peutelstein by the N. side 
 of the Sas de Lagatscho, a rugged peak 
 rising W. of the Tofana. Another way 
 from Buchenstein to Peutelstein, by Val 
 Travernanze, is noticed among the ex- 
 cursions from Cortina (§ 61, Ete. A).
 
 ROUTE H.— EiVXEBERG. 
 
 499 
 
 3. By St. Vigil and Peutel stein. About 
 1 1 ^ his. to Peutelsteiu — 5^ m. thence to 
 Cortina. In Kte. G-, reference was 
 made to the SE. branch of the Gader- 
 thal, whose torrent joins the Gader at 
 Zwischenwassern, and to which the 
 name Enneberg is properly restricted. 
 Being the least frequented division of 
 the valley, the Ladin dialect is better 
 preserved here than in the main branch. 
 Besides the name Enneberg, the valley 
 is knov\rii to the German neighbours as 
 Vigilthal, while the natives call it Mareo 
 or Marebbe. In addition to these names, 
 the upper part above St. Vigil is known 
 as Raichthal or Vallon di Rudo. The 
 way from Bruneck does not cross the 
 Vigilbach to Zwischenwassern, but 
 keeps along the rt. bank of that torrent 
 to Tfarre (Pieve da Maro), with a fine old 
 church. Several hamlets, of which the 
 chief are Hof (La Court), and Mann- 
 than (Manteria),are passed on the way to 
 
 St. Vigil, or Plmig da Maro, the chief 
 place in the valley, 3,968 ft, above the 
 sea, about 4 hrs. from Bruneck. It has 
 a very fair country inn, without a sign, 
 and may afford head-quarters for some 
 interesting excursions. Tlu-ee brothers, 
 named Willert, Jakob Karneider, and 
 Antonio Trebo, are named as competent 
 guides. There is a mineral spring at a 
 place called Cortina, near the village, 
 which might become a place of much 
 resort, if tolerable accommodation for 
 strangers were provided. 
 
 The most interesting of the shorter 
 excursions to be made here is that to 
 Wengen (4,985'), a comparatively large 
 and thriving village, lying in a short 
 glen, or hollow, in the moimtains, on the 
 E. side of the Abteithal. The way 
 from St. Vigil lies by the Pfannes Alp. 
 From Wengen the traveller may visit 
 the pilgrimage church of Heiligen Kreuz 
 (6,695'), standing in a very commanding 
 situation, and overlooking a great part 
 of the Gaderthal. 
 
 The way from St. Vigil to the Am- 
 pezzo valley follows the upper part of 
 the valley (Vallon di Kudo), nearly to 
 its head, and passes by the Eodara 
 Vedla AJp. 
 
 The only information respecting this 
 pass that has reached the editor is con- 
 tained in a note kindly communicated by 
 the Rev. T. G. Bonney, who made the ex- 
 cursion from Cortina to Bruneck. He em- 
 ployed about 6^ hrs. from Peutelstein to 
 St. Vigil, but moderate walkers may 
 allow nearly 1 hr. more, excluding halts. 
 
 ' A little above Peutelstein, a rough 
 cart-road turns aside to the 1. from the 
 post-road. This ascends through an 
 upland valley [Val Antruilles ? — Ed.], 
 commanding fine views of the north- 
 ern peak of the Tofana. After cross- 
 ing to the rt. bank of the stream, the 
 track, henceforward a roughly paved 
 bridle-path, twists and winds up the 
 hill-side, and over sinuous depressions 
 in the dreary and desolate limestone 
 mountains between the Tofana and 
 Seekofel. The actual summit is not 
 marked, probably it is near a hut which 
 stands in a small grassy basin ; hut 
 commands little view — parts of the Cri- 
 stallo and Geiselsteiu being seen. A 
 few minutes' more winding and slight 
 descent bring you to a group of chalets, 
 called Rudo di Sotto, 3 hrs. 35 min. 
 from Peutelstein, at the head of the 
 Enneberg valley, and looking right 
 down it across the Pusterthal to the 
 Stubayerferner [? — Ed.]. Hence fol- 
 lows a good path on the 1. bank of the 
 stream, which in a few minutes plunges 
 into a deep gorge in the dolomite rock. 
 The scenery is now very fine ; th« 
 path winds down a very steep descent 
 into the Vigilthal, -nith a magnificent 
 cliff rising on the 1., and the deep gorge 
 on the rt. The head of the valley, of 
 which glimpses are now gained, is 
 barren and dreary, the floor very level, 
 and covered with forest. The bottom 
 of the descent was reached in 1 hr. 
 15 min. There I found a fair char- 
 road, which runs along the level bed of 
 the valley through woods, in which, 
 first legfoliren, then Scotch fir, predomi- 
 nate, with magnificent cliffs of fawn- 
 coloured dolomite on the rt. A clear- 
 ing, with chalets is reached in 35 min. 
 more, after which the valley begins to 
 open. As the mountains become leea 
 2
 
 500 
 
 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 60. FASSA DISTRICT. 
 
 precipitous, cornfields, meadows, and 
 little villages, are seen on their sides. 
 After 1 hr. 20 min. more, I reached the 
 white houses and church of Enneberg 
 or St. Vigil (Auberge near church to 
 SW., no sign). Hence a short cut 
 across meadows leads to the char-road 
 by rt. bank of the stream ; after 20 
 min. it comes to 1. bank, and then soon 
 returns. (N.B. Eecross on first occa- 
 sion, and take the unpromising road up 
 the hill on the rt. bank. I took the 
 promising one by the stream on 1. bank, 
 and had to cross lower down, and 
 climb a steep path to regain it).' 
 
 4. By the Galselbergerthal. The way 
 here noticed would be circuitous for 
 a traveller starting from Bruneck, but 
 it is inserted here in order to remind 
 those who may approach that place 
 from the E. side that there is an easy 
 and agreeable way for entering the 
 Gaderthal from the high-road between 
 Bruneck and Welsberg. On the S. 
 side of the Eienz are three villages, all 
 belonging to the commune of Olang. 
 That called Mittel-OIang (3,418')— said 
 to have a good country inn — stands ex- 
 actly at the opening of the 
 
 Gaiselhergerthal, a short lateral glen of 
 the valley of the Eienz, approached by 
 a bridge over that river. In this gkn, 
 about 2 hrs. from the bridge, is a place 
 called Schartl, with a mineral spring, 
 resorted to for baths, and for fresh air 
 in summer. From Schartl it is an eat-y 
 walk of 3 hrs. to St. Vigil, passing 
 below the summit of the Plang cle Co- 
 rones (7,535'), also called Spitzhornl, 
 said to command a fine view. From 
 St. Vigil, taking the way by "VVengen, 
 mentioned above, the traveller may 
 reach St. Leonhard, in the Abteithal, 
 by a course much more interesting than 
 the common way from Bruneck, de- 
 Scribed in tho last Ete. 
 
 EOUTE I, 
 
 ST. TILEICH m GRODEIf TO FIEVE DI 
 ANDRAZ. 
 
 Eeference has already been made to 
 a lofty mass of mountain, often desig- 
 nated the Sella Plateau, which sends ita 
 drainage in opposite directions through 
 the four principal streams of this dis- 
 trict — the Avisio, Cordevole, Gader, 
 and Grodnerbach. Although very steep 
 on all sides, there are several clefts in 
 the great ramparts of the Sella through 
 which it is possible to reach the sum- 
 mit of the plateau, but the writer is not 
 aware that any passes — in the ordinaiy 
 sense of the term — have been effected 
 across the central part of the mass. 
 Failing such passes, it becomes necessary 
 to make a circuit by two sides of the 
 mountain when a traveller seeks to pass 
 from the head of one of the above- 
 named valleys to that lying on the op- 
 posite side of the mountain. In going 
 from the Grodnerthal to Livinallongo, 
 the easiest way is to follow the Colfosco 
 Pass (Ete. G), from Plan to Colfosco, 
 and go thence to Pieve di Andraz by 
 either of the paths mentioned in the 
 last Ete. Another way, equally inte- 
 resting and agreeable, passes by the W. 
 and S. sides of the same moimtain 
 mass, traversing two low ridges. From 
 Sta. Maria or Plan (Ete. G), the path 
 to the Colfosco Pass is followed for a 
 short way, when the traveller turns due 
 S., and mounts to the 
 
 Sella Joch (7,406'), reached in 2 hrs. 
 from Plau. A rapid descent leads to-
 
 §61. CADORE DISTRICT. 
 
 501 
 
 wards the head of the Fassathal, which 
 is reached in about I5 hr. from the pass 
 at the hamlet of Gries, little more than 
 1 m. from Campidello. If bound for 
 Livinallongo by the shortest path, the 
 traveller does not descend far towards 
 Gries. He will perceive that on his 1. 
 liand there is a wide opening in the 
 mountains S. of the Monte Pordoi, 
 (10,333' I, tlie southernmost, and proba- 
 bly the highest part of the Sella mass. 
 Through that opening an easy path 
 ascends to the Pordoi Pass (7,396'). 
 This is frequented by travellers going 
 from Fassa to Livinallongo and thence 
 txj Ampezzo. The path to it from Gries 
 turns off to the rt. from the way to the 
 Sella Joch, but the traveller, coming 
 from the Grodnerthal with a competent 
 guide, may go from one pass to the 
 other without any long descent. The 
 gigantic ramparts of Mo7ite Pordoi 
 (10,333') produce a fine effect when seen 
 from the neighbourhood of the pass, but 
 the descent thence to Araba is rather 
 uninteresting. The inn at that place is 
 very poor, but supplies tolerable re- 
 freshments. It is a walk of fully 2 hrs. 
 thence to Pieve di Andraz. 
 
 A far more interesting but longer 
 •N/ay is to descend from the Sella Joch 
 ■:o Canazei (Rte. A), and follow the head 
 of the Fassathal to Fedaya. The basin 
 of Fedaya is divided from Livinallongo 
 by a ridge that culminates in the Mte. 
 Padon (8,878'). A track passing on 
 one side of that summit goes from Fe- 
 daya to Livinallongo over the Forcella 
 di Padon (7, 800'). This commands an 
 admirable view of the ]\Iarmolata, and 
 also of many of the Ampezzo peaks. 
 On the N. side the path descends to 
 Ornella, a hamlet some way above Pieve 
 di Andraz, which place is reached in 
 about 4 hrs. from Fedaya, or 6| hrs. 
 from Canazei, excluding halts. 
 
 SECTION 61. 
 
 CADORE DISTRICT. 
 
 I>- undertaking to give some account of 
 one of the most beautiful portions of 
 the Alps, the writer is struck with the 
 singularity of the fact that it should 
 have so long remained almost unknown, 
 even by name, to English travellers. 
 Unusually easy of access, for its three 
 principal valleys are traversed by good 
 roads, better supplied with inns than 
 many favourite haunts of tourists, con- 
 taining scenery of the most fantastic 
 wildness and beauty, and offering as 
 prizes many peaks diiflcidt enough to 
 be exciting to the climber, it may fairly 
 be said to have been unknown to all but 
 a very few Englishmen, until the appear- 
 ance of ]!»Iessrs. Gilbert and Churchill's 
 volume, so often referred to in the pre- 
 ceding sections. Only about the same 
 time did German travellers systemati- 
 cally undertake the exploration of the 
 district, and to one of them in parti- 
 cular — Dr. P. Grohmann — we owe a 
 very accurate acquaintance with most of 
 the highest peaks, several of which he 
 has been the first to ascend. The 
 writer's acquaintance with this district 
 precedes that of the writers here named, 
 but his visits have been brief, and, with 
 one exception, accompanied by heavy 
 and almost constant rain. The facts
 
 502 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 61. CADORE DISTRICT. 
 
 are not numerous enough to warrant a 
 broad inference ; but there is some 
 reason to think that in rainy seasons 
 the quantity which falls here much sur- 
 passes that of the adjoining region to 
 the west. 
 
 The district here described may be 
 briefly defined as including the basin of 
 the Piave, with its two principal tribu- 
 taries the Boita and the Cordevole, along 
 with the range dividing the sources of 
 those streams from the Pusterthal, and 
 the less lofty, but rather extensive, tract 
 dividing the Piave from the plain of 
 Venetia. Although the mean height of 
 the motmtains considerably surpasses 
 that of most of the exterior ranges of the 
 Alps, it may be safely said that except i 
 on the NW. side, where it touches the j 
 backbone of the Carnie Alps, there is 
 not in this district any appearance of 
 the existence of definite mountain 
 ranges. The general level of. the cen- 
 tral part of the district is high, and from 
 that level the peaks rise very abruptly, 
 without any appearance of mutual con- 
 nection. That fact, together with the 
 near approach to equality in the heights 
 of the loftier summits, tends to confirm 
 Kichthofen's views as to the dolomite 
 mountains of this region. Although his 
 hypothesis as to the coral-reef origin of 
 the masses that rear themselves so 
 abruptly above the surrounding country 
 is not free from difficulties of its own, it 
 ifi one which presents itself naturally to 
 the mind in endeavouring to account for 
 the singular aspect of the mountains of 
 this district. Until lately, there were 
 no trustworthy measurements of the 
 heights of any of the principal peaks, 
 and of those named below three are un- 
 doubtedly under-estimated. The Ante- 
 lao is almost certainly the highest, and 
 reaches about 10,850 ft. The Pelmo is 
 probably between 10,500 and 10,600 
 ft., and the Civetta can differ only by a 
 few ft. The chief peaks of fhis district 
 — all except the last, overlooking the 
 upper valley of the Boita— are the 
 Sorapis (10,798'), Tofana (10,724'), 
 Mtelao (10,679'?), Monte Cristallo 
 
 (10,644'), Pelmo (10,377'?) and CivettA 
 (10,440' ?). 
 
 If the geologists who were led by the 
 structure of the mountains of Fassa to 
 suppose that the conversion of carbonate 
 of lime into dolomite was due to action 
 of igneous rocks in a state of fusion, had 
 studied this district at the same time, 
 their views would probably have been 
 modified. Nowhere are dolomite rocks 
 developed on a larger scale than here, 
 yet, with a trifling exception near Ca- 
 prile, no trace of igneous rocks has been 
 found in the district lying E. of the 
 Cordevole and the Gaderthal. 
 
 The natural centre of this district is 
 Cortina d' Ampezzo, where the traveller 
 finds good quarters and the convenience 
 of a high-road. Prom that centre the 
 active mountaineer may accomplish the 
 ascent of mo'st of the highest peaks 
 enumerated below, while the moderate 
 walker may devise a great variety of 
 interesting and easy excursions. It is 
 not equally well suited for those who 
 prefer short walks, and wish to have the 
 more striking scenes brought nearer to 
 hand. There are, however, many other 
 places that combine fairly good accom- 
 modation with beautiful scenery. Fore- 
 most among these must be reckoned 
 Schluderbach ; but the lover of nature 
 will find attractions in almost every one 
 of the secondary valleys of this district 
 that may induce him to tarry on his 
 way, and an entire season may be spent 
 here ■with profit and satisfaction. It is 
 right to say that there are persons, not 
 insensible to the beauty of great movm- 
 tain countries, upon whom the utter 
 sternness and savageness of some of the 
 wilder scenery of this district produces 
 an almost painful effect. It would be 
 difficult to find elsewhere in the Alps 
 scenes so awe-inspiring as those sur- 
 rounding the DiiiTen See, or the cirque 
 of the Croda Malcora.
 
 BOUTE A. AMPEZZO ROAD. 
 
 503 
 
 EOUTE A. 
 
 
 BBUNECK TO CONEGLIAXO, BY 
 
 COETES'A 
 
 D' AMPEZZO. 
 
 
 
 Austrian 
 
 Eng. 
 
 
 miles 
 
 miles 
 
 Niederndorf . 
 
 3 
 
 14 
 
 Landro . 
 
 2 
 
 9i 
 
 Cortina d'Ampezzo 
 
 2i 
 
 Hi 
 
 Venas . 
 
 3 
 
 14 
 
 PeraroUo 
 
 2 
 
 9i 
 
 Longarone . 
 
 2i 
 
 III 
 
 Santa Croce . 
 
 H 
 
 Ceneda . 
 
 2 
 
 9\ 
 
 Conegliano . 
 
 2 
 
 9| 
 
 22J 104J 
 Post-road. No public conveyance between 
 Cortina and Conegliano since the separation of 
 Venetia from Austria. A steUwagen plies be- 
 tween Niederndorf and Cortina. 
 
 The way from Bruneck to the point 
 where the high-road to Venice turns 
 southward from the Pusterthal is de- 
 ficribed in §51, Ete. A. That point is 
 very near the summit-level parting the 
 waters of the Drave from those of the 
 Eienz, but it lies a short way W. of the 
 watershed, and the stream issuing from 
 tlie short valley followed by the road to 
 Cortina is the chief source of the Kienz. 
 A pedestrian taking this way from 
 Kiederndorf should follow a foot-path 
 that turns to the rt. from the road by 
 the second bridge above that village, and 
 after passing a brewery, rejoins the road 
 near the Toblacher See (4,165'). This 
 stands in the opening of the narrow glen 
 (sometimes called HoUensteinerthal) 
 that serves as a portal between the Ger- 
 snaaPusterthal and the Italian population 
 
 of Ampezzo. As the traveller advances 
 the defile becomes narrower, and the me- 
 nacing-looking crags of the Drri Zinnen 
 (9,833') rise to a vast height in a glen 
 that opens to SE., as he reaches the 
 post-house of Latidro, or Hdllenstein, 
 4,749 ft above the sea. Very fair ac- 
 commodation is foimd here, but those 
 who halt for more than a single night 
 should prefer Schluderbach. There is 
 no village at Landro, but merely three 
 or four buildings that seem to bs con- 
 nected with the post-house. Close at 
 hand, though not seen from the house, 
 is the Durren See. This sheet of shal- 
 low pale-green water is surrounded by 
 a flat tract of white barren dolomitfc 
 gravel, which supports only stunted fir- 
 trees. In the background is a groiip 
 of inaccessible-looking rocks, broken 
 into massive towers, whose highest peak, 
 the Monte Cristallo, is one of the giants 
 of this region. Below the vertical walls 
 that sustain its summit a glacier hangs 
 suspended from the rifts of themounta,in, 
 and extends on one side up to a deep 
 cleft that divides the Cristallo from a 
 solitary tower, quite 10,000 ft. in height 
 — the Monte Popena. A sombre band 
 of Kruramholz (Pinus mughus) sur- 
 rounds the base of these peaks. Even 
 the traveller who loves Nature in her 
 wilder moods feels the chilling influence 
 of this savagely gloomy spot, whose 
 ghastly grandeur seems the fitting ac- 
 companiment for some unheard-of crime. 
 The aspect of the scene might lead the 
 traveller to suppose himself utterly shut 
 in by impassable rocks, and in truth 
 none but active mountaineers can follow 
 the southward direction to which the 
 road has adhered since leaving the 
 Pusterthal. But a deep cleft opens 
 westward, through which the road is 
 carried nearly at a level for a distance of 
 about 6 m. About 2 m. from Landro, near 
 the opening of Val Popena and Val 
 Cristallo (Ete. B), is the solitary house 
 of 
 
 Schluderbach (4,822'), where the tra- 
 veller, to his surprise, finds in the midst 
 of the most savage scenery a capital 
 country inn, kept by Giorgio Ploiier, an
 
 504 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 61. CADORE DISTRICT. 
 
 obliging host, and (whfn disengaged) an 
 efficient guide. Anton Mulins, some- 
 times sent in his place, is incompetent. 
 Though less central than Cortina, this 
 is an excellent centre for many excur- 
 sions, most of which are noticed in 
 Rte. B. At Schluderbach the Monte 
 Cristallo is concealed by the projecting 
 mass of the Eauhkofel, ^nd the much 
 lower mass of the Cristallin (9,238') is 
 the only considerable summit in view on 
 that side. But the loss of view on the 
 S. side is compensated by the apparition 
 of the very singular peak of the 
 
 Croda Bossa (10,262'), or Hoke Gaisl, 
 fi.'rmed of massive rock, showing large 
 patches of a Ijright red on its impending 
 precipices, 'streaked as with the red 
 drip of a mighty sacrifice.' [G-. and C] 
 The ascent has been effected three or 
 four times, and is steep, and fit only for 
 practised cragsmen. Ploner and .Santo 
 Siorpaes know the way. From the base 
 of this tutelary nunien of the spot a 
 slender streamlet flows by the road to- 
 wards the Eienz ; but it requires close 
 attention to detect the point where the 
 ground begins to subside in the opposite 
 direction towards the valley of Ampezzo. 
 The exact height of the summit level is 
 not known to the writer, but it is cer- 
 tainly not much above or below 5,000 
 fc. The inconsiderable stream of the 
 liuffredo begins to flow westward, and 
 another solitary house, called pedale, 
 originally built as a refuge for poor tra- 
 vellers, at the opening of a glen called 
 Val Grande (Rte. B), is left behind. 
 The Euflfredo, on the 1. of the high-road, 
 soon begins to cut a deeper channel, 
 through which it descends to meet the 
 more considerable torrent, in which is 
 united the drainage of three valleys — 
 Val Travernanze, Val Fanis, and Val 
 Antruilles — through the latter of which 
 lies a pathway to Enneberg (§ 60, 
 Rte. H) — and form the Boita. In the 
 angle between them stands the castle 
 of Peutelstein, which, after surviving 
 centuries of border warfare until 1867, 
 was levelled with a view to the erection 
 of a modern fort to guard this entrance 
 into Tyrol. According to the latest 
 
 information, it is ro longer possible to 
 ! pass by an interesting path above the 
 1 1. bank of the Ruffredo, through the 
 i defile below the castle, which was fre- 
 iquently traversed by passing tourists 
 I who left their carriages to follow the 
 ]road on the opposite side of the tor- 
 rent. 
 
 Immediately after -^dissing Peutelstein 
 (Ital. Fodestagno) the road turns sharply 
 to the 1., and begins to descend towards 
 the valley of the Boita which stretches 
 far away to the SSE. The noble peaks 
 of the Tofana, Pelmo, Antelao, and 
 Sorapis come successively into view. 
 The road descends rather rapidly along 
 the slopes above the 1. bank of the 
 Boita, and in about 5^ m. from Peutel- 
 stein reaches 
 
 Cortina d'Ampezzo (4,048'), the chief 
 village of the large and wealthy com- 
 mune of Ampezzo, which includes the 
 portion of tlie valley of the Boita, Ung 
 N. of the frontier of Italy. Of" the 
 numerous inns three deserve favourable 
 mention (Stella d' Oro, managed by the 
 Sisters Barbaria, remarkably clean, 
 quiet, and comfortable 4 Aquila Nera, 
 kept by Ghedina, father of a distin- 
 guished Venetian painter, who is often 
 here in summer ; Kreuz, also well spoken 
 of). The Aquila Nera, is much improved 
 by the addition of a separate house for 
 tourists ; the writer has hitherto found 
 the Stella preferable. 
 
 The appearance of the buildings and 
 the people in the village of Cortina and 
 the neighbouring hamlets announce 
 general prosperity, which partly arises 
 from the vast extent of valuable forests 
 [ and pastxires belonging to the commune 
 1 in its corporate capacity. The greatly 
 increased price of timber has, however, 
 I tempted the natives to cut down forest 
 I to an extent that may affect their future 
 I prosperity. In the pride of momentary 
 1 wealth they have erected a cajnpanile 
 250 ft. high, on a scale befitting a 
 great city. Near the village is an esta- 
 blishment for mineral baths, standing 
 I near the banks of the Boita. The 
 waters are said to be similar to those 
 1 of Prags in the Pusterthal (Rte, I).
 
 ROUTE A. — EXCURSIONS FROM CORilXA D AMPEZZO. 
 
 505 
 
 ■The establisliment belongs to Gr. Ghe- 
 dina, landlord of the Aquihi Ncra. 
 
 Cortina is better supplied with guides 
 than most places in the Italian Tyrol. 
 Santo Siorpaes is first-rate, and knows 
 most parts of this region, Alessandro 
 Lacedelli is a bold climber, but has little 
 judgment. Angelo Dimaj is also good, 
 and his brother, Fulgenzio. less efficient. 
 A tariff of chai-ges has been established. 
 Ghedina has two or three side-saddles 
 for ladies. 
 
 Most of the excursions from Cortina 
 are described in the following Etes., 
 but it may be convenient to enumerate 
 them here, adding a brief notice of 
 some which do not conveniently fall 
 under other headings. 
 
 The paths to Schluderbach by Val 
 Grande and the Lake of Misurina, and 
 the ascent of Mte. Cristallo, are given 
 in Ete. B. The tour of the Croda 
 Malcora by the Tre Croci and Forcella 
 Grande, and the ascent of the Sorapis, 
 are noticed in Ete. E. For the ascent 
 of the Antelao see Ete. F, and for that 
 of the Pelmo, Ete. G. 
 
 Among short excursions deserving 
 notice is that through a short glen (Val 
 Ambriciola ?) that mounts somewhat 
 W. of S. from Cortina, and leads to a 
 depression on the NW. side of the Becco 
 di Mezzodi, a remarkable projecting 
 ' carious tooth ' of dolomite rock, acces- 
 sible from the S. side by a stiff scramble. 
 It is possible to scramble round the base 
 of the Becco, enjoying on the way some 
 noble views of the Civetta, Pelmo, and 
 Antelao. Eeturning by a slightly dif- 
 ferent course to Cortina, this makes a 
 very interesting excursion of 5 or 6 hrs. 
 
 To the botanist the ascent of Monte 
 Giisella and a visit to the crags of the 
 Monte Kuvolau may be recommended. 
 The former is the only Italian station 
 for Crepis hyoserid {folia. 
 
 The ascent of J/orai'e Tofana (10,724') 
 is for the practised mountaineer one of 
 the most attractive expeditions to be 
 made in this district. Starting in good 
 time, an active walker will easily return 
 to Cortina in time for dinner, and with 
 favourable weather will have enjoyed 
 
 one of the finest views in Tyrol. The 
 mountain has 3 .summits, all visible 
 from Cortina, of which the central one 
 is certainly the highest. The .SW. peak 
 — seen on the 1. from Cortina — is said 
 to have been several times reached by 
 natives of the valley ; the middle peak 
 was attained in 1863 by Dr. Grohmann 
 with the elder Lacedelli ; and the N. 
 peak was climbed by Mr. Bonney in 
 1867, with Angelo Dimaj as guide. Dr. 
 Grohmann, having gained the crest of 
 the ridge connecting the SW. summit 
 with the highest, turned to the rt. and 
 followed the ridge chiefly by the side 
 overlooking Val Travernanze, finally 
 attaining the summit by a rather steep 
 ice-slope. Mr. Bonney took a course 
 that seems to be full of interest even ir- 
 respective of the special object in view. 
 Mounting rapidly and nearly straight 
 from Cortina, he attained in 1 hr. 50 
 min. a gap, called ForceUa della Cesta, 
 overlooking the head of a small upland 
 glen, or hollow, that descends in pre- 
 cipices towards Peutelstein. Passing 
 above the head of this glen another 
 gap, reached in 10 mm. from the first, 
 enables the traveller to overlook a much 
 vaster hollow, once filled by glacier, 
 above which rise the central and north- 
 ern peaks of the mountain, in crags 
 which are in most places impracticably 
 steep. Without descending low, Mr. 
 B(mney circled round this hollow, pass- 
 ing on the way below a small glacier. 
 Having gone some way beyond the 
 base of the northern peak, he found a 
 cleft through which water trickles, and 
 which afforded a practicable way to the 
 ridge of the mountain. Turning to the 
 1. along the ridge, the N. peak was 
 attained in 5^ hrs. from Cortina. The 
 return, being hurried by bad weather, 
 was effected in 3 hrs. 25 min. Mr. 
 Bonney rates this view as among the 
 finest in this part of the Alps. 
 
 The mountain mass that culminates 
 in the three peaks of the Tofana nearly 
 fills an equilateral triangle, one side of 
 which is the road from Cortina to Peu- 
 telstein, another, the path over the Tre 
 Sassi from Cortina to Buchenstein,
 
 50G S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 61. CADORE DISTRICT. 
 
 while tlie third, or NW. side, is marked 
 by Val I'ravernanze. This divides the 
 Tofima from a more westerly and lower 
 mass which is crowned by the peak of 
 Lagazoi. A very interesting day's walk 
 is the tour of Monte Tofana by Val 
 Travernanze, returning by the Tre Sassi. 
 Leaving the high road at the toll-bar 
 about 1 hr. N. of Cortina, a cart-track 
 nr. the 1. bank of the Boita leads under 
 the castle rock of Peutelstein to a bridge, 
 and by choosing always the road most 
 to the 1. the way cannot be missed. On 
 the N. side of the Tofana, the torrent 
 of Val Travernanze, after passing 
 through a very singular gorge, meets 
 that of Val Funis, which flows westward 
 from the mountains near St. Cassian. 
 As the united stream approaches the 
 main valley, it receives the waters of a 
 third torrent, named Val Antrtnlles, 
 doubtless the same mentioned in § 60, 
 Kte. H, through which the path runs to 
 Enneberg. A beaten cattle-track leads 
 amid very grand rock scenery to the 
 upper part of Val Travernanze, and a 
 fsiintly marked path goes from the 
 highest huts to the ridge overlooking 
 the road over the Tre Sassi. The name 
 Lagazoi is given only to the southern 
 and highest part of the ridge on the rt., 
 dividing Travernanze from Fanis. In- 
 stead of descending towards the Tre 
 Sassi, the traveller may keep close under 
 the precipices of the Tofana, and on his 
 ■way visit a cavern which is easy of 
 access when snow is plentiful, otherwise 
 hard to get at. 
 
 No moderate walker should miss the 
 excursion to the Lago Sorapis in the great 
 hollow, or cirque, of the Croda Malcora, 
 that being the collective name here given 
 to the vast range of crags whose highest 
 summit is the Sorapis, (See Ete. E.) 
 
 The frontier between Italy and Tyrol 
 crosses the valley of the Boita about 
 6 m. below Cortina. Before long the 
 road passes the hamlet of Chiapuzzo, 
 whence a path mounts to the Eorcella 
 Grande (Ete, E), and soon after reaches 
 
 San Vito (3,417'), the Italian cus- 
 toms-station. Neither the writer nor 
 his friendfl can confirm the sweeping, 
 
 condemnatory statement applied to the 
 loM-er part of the Boita vaUey, and 
 the adjoining district of Cadore — 'inns 
 grow nasty, and postmasters begin to 
 cheat.' The village inn of San Vito 
 was fairly clean, the landlord attentive, 
 and charges reasonable, but in 1867 
 the Italian douaniers had taken posses- 
 sion of the best rooms, and the house 
 was not a pleasant stopping-place. Gio, 
 Batt. Giacin is recommended as a guide. 
 For some time before reaching San 
 Vito two giants of this region, hither- 
 to imperfectly seen, have come ftdly 
 into view — the Pelmo and Antelao. 
 The first cannot fail to fix the traveller's 
 attention. An isolated, massive, bas- 
 tion ed tower of bare rock, rising ab- 
 ruptly to a height of 5,000 ft. above its 
 base, its form is unique in the Alps. 
 For a notice of the ascent see Ete. G. 
 San Vito may serve as starting-point 
 for the ascent of both peaks. 
 
 The general character of the valley 
 of the Boita remains unchanged. Even 
 where the stream has excavated for 
 itself a deep bed, the road keeps along 
 the broad gently-sloping shelf that 
 extends to the very base of the great 
 moimtain wall that encloses the vaUey 
 on the E. side. As it approaches its 
 confluence with the Piave, the Boita 
 gradually deepens the trench which it 
 has cut in the superficial strata, and 
 the road avoids this altogether by turn- 
 ing aside in a direction somewhat N. of 
 E., so as to approach the Piave some 
 way above the junction. Passing Borca 
 (3,200'), and Vodo (3,120'), where a 
 great bergfall from a projecting but- 
 tress of the Antelao overwhelmed two 
 villages in 1816, the road reaches Ve- 
 nas (2,898'), a post station with a 
 decent inn. Here a torrent from the 
 Antelao descends through a ravine to 
 join the Boita, and the road takes leave 
 of that stream, which is lost to view at 
 the bottom of an impassable cleft. Be- 
 fore rejoining that stream at its junction 
 with the Piave, the road makes the 
 circuit of the Munte Zucco (3,985'), 
 which on this side shows as a mere 
 rocky hill, but in the opposite direction
 
 ROUTE A. — LONGARONE. 
 
 507 
 
 towards the Plave, appears a high and 
 steep ridge. At Tai di Cadore, where 
 there is a very fair country inn, the 
 road, which mounts to the head of the 
 valley of the Piave (Rte, D), turns 
 aside from the post-road. This here be- 
 gins a steep and long descent of the 
 slopes above the rt. bank of the Piave, 
 and along the E. side of Monte Zucco, 
 which terminates only ,at the post- 
 station of PeraroUo. 
 
 [Pieve di Cadore, the birth-place of 
 Titian, scarcely 1 m. from Tai, on the 
 road to Comelico, is noticed in Rte. D. 
 The nam-e Cadore belongs not to any 
 particular village, but to the district 
 surrounding the junction of the valleys 
 of the Piave and Boita. In an ex- 
 tended sense the mountains enclosing 
 both valleys are often styled Cadore 
 Alps, and the name being widely known, 
 has been chosen by the writer as the 
 most convenient for this entire dis- 
 trict.] 
 
 PeraroUo {1, 7 il'), fully 1,200 ft. below 
 Tai, stands at the junction of the Piave 
 with the Boita. There is a good inn at 
 the post, and a large number of men are 
 employed in the neighbourhood in con- 
 nection with the timber trade, vast 
 quantities of wood being floated hither 
 from the valleys of the neighbouring 
 Alps, and forwarded to Venice by the 
 Piave. About 2 m. below Perarollo is 
 the opening of Val Montina, above 
 which are the steep crags of Monte 
 Duranno. Mr. HolzmanneffV-cteda pass 
 —Forcella di Duranno (about 6,650') — 
 by the N. side of that peak by which 
 Cimolais may be reached in 7 hrs. 
 
 Lo7igaro7ie {1, 4:7 S'), a rather large vil- 
 lage, with two pretty good inns (Post ; 
 Leone d' Oro), standing at the conflu- 
 ence of the Mae, issuing from Val di 
 Zoldo (Rte. G), with the Piave. On the 
 opposite side of the main valley the 
 short glen of Vajont runs up to a pas.s 
 leading to the upper valley of the Zel- 
 line (§ 62, Rte. I). The post-road keeps 
 to the rt. bank of the Piave until it 
 reaches Capo di Ponie (Inn : Stella 
 Bianca'', whence the road to Belluno 
 and Peltro (Rte. D) extends SW. along 
 
 the Piave, while the direct way to Co- 
 negliano and Venice turns southwards 
 through a broad and deep opening in 
 the mountains. Within sight of the 
 towers of Be]luno, scarcely 5 m. distant, 
 the latter road crosses the Piave by a 
 massive wooden bridge, 82 ft. above the 
 stream, and 1,270 ft. above the sea- 
 level. The road from Capo di Poate to 
 Ceneda is interesting to the geologist as 
 exhibiting the scene of a comparatively 
 recent geological event. It is consi- 
 dered certain that the course of the 
 Piave once lay through the valley that 
 extends from Capo di Ponte to Sta. 
 Croce, and thence to Serravalle. A berg- 
 fal], which occurred at some uncertain 
 period, perhaps previous to the historic 
 epoch, barred the course of the stream 
 below Sta. Croce, whereupon a Jake was 
 formed above that village, and the river 
 found a new channel through the broad 
 valley, extending from Capo di Ponte 
 to Lputiai near Feltre. The change in 
 the channel of so considerable a stream 
 might have been expected to effect con- 
 siderable modifications in the valleys 
 which it has passed, but these are not 
 apparent. The Lago di Sta. Croce has 
 an average lieiglit of 28 ft. above the 
 surface of tlie Piave at Capo di Ponte, 
 and the sluggish stream of the Eai now 
 flows from the lake exactly in the oppo- 
 site direction to the former course of 
 the Piave through the same vaUey. Tho 
 lake is a pretty sheet of water, and ihn 
 traveller might be tempted to halt, if 
 there were a decent inn, at 
 
 Sta. Croce (1,336'), a poor place, more 
 than 100 ft. above the level of the lake. 
 A short way beyond the village com- 
 mences the ascent of the barrier formed 
 by the great bergfall mentioned above. 
 The summit of this great dam is 
 marked by a police-barrack, 1,610 ft. 
 above the sea-level. The descent on 
 the S. side is much steeper than the 
 ascent, and the village of Fadalto lies 
 fully 600 ft. below the top of the ridge. 
 It is surrounded by rugged walls of 
 limestone with scrubby beeches in the 
 hollows. Below the village is the Lago 
 Morto (893'). The rocky defile extends
 
 508 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. 
 
 61. CADORE DISTRICT. 
 
 hence to Serravalle, singular and pic- 
 turesque, but so hot in summer that 
 few travellers are tempted to traverse it 
 on foot. The Mcschio, a mere rivulet 
 draining the Lago Morto, descends over 
 two steep steps in the floor of the 
 valley, where the vine and chestnut are 
 the prevailing plants. After passing 
 another very small lake, the traveller 
 reaches 
 
 Serravalle (512'), a small town in a 
 very singular position, standing in a 
 gap in the line of hills that up to this 
 point have enclosed the valley of the 
 Me^^chio. The first houses are in the 
 defile, and for a moment the rocks close 
 together and there is barely space for 
 the road and the torrent. This turns 
 abruptly to SSE., and the view opens 
 out suddenly over the low country 
 towards Ceneda and Conegliano, while 
 the full wealth of southern vegetation, 
 wide-spreading fig-trees, pomegranates 
 all ablaze with their scarlet blossoms, 
 trellised vines creeping up walls and 
 trees, and the contrast of sombre cy- 
 presses, assure the traveller that he 
 has left the precincts of the Alps. In | 
 spring or autumn, when the heat is 
 bearable, some pleasant excursions may 
 be made from Serravalle into the range 
 separating the present valley of the 
 Piave from what is believed to have 
 been its ancientcourse. These are chiefly 
 formed of cretaceous rocks, partly over- 
 laid by eocene strata. The highest sum- 
 mit is apparently the Col Vicentino 
 (5,789'), due N, of Serravalle. It might 
 lie taken on the way from that place to 
 J>elluno. The orographer should also 
 visit a short valley that originates a few 
 m. W. of Serravalle, from which it is 
 si-parated by a low ridge. It contains a 
 lake — merely called Lago (775'), whence 
 the Soliffo torrent flows SW. for about 
 5 m., and then turns abruptly to SSE. 
 to descend into the plain. The upper 
 valley lies exactly in the prolongation 
 of that of the Meschio, and seems to 
 rppoat exactly the peculiarities observed 
 in the course of that stream. Some 
 furth(^r examination may perhaps be 
 usefully given to the supposed change 
 
 in the channel of the Piave, which has 
 been described above in accordance with 
 the views prevalent among geologists. 
 The main evidence is derived from the 
 nature of the gravel and detritus found 
 in the valley of the Meschio ; but this 
 admits of much discussion before it can 
 be held to be conclusive. Reference is 
 made by Schaubach to early Roman 
 authors whose text seems to indicate 
 that the Piave, as known to them, fol- 
 lowed the supposed ancient channel ; 
 but the writer has never learned what 
 writers are referred to, and what texts 
 are forthcoming. It is certain that 
 Venantius Portunatus, who died early 
 in the 7th century, and who, though 
 a Prench bishop, was a native of this 
 region, knew the river as it flows in the 
 existing channel. 
 
 It is a distance of little more than 2 m. 
 from Serravalle to Ceneda (468'), an an- 
 cient town believed to be of Roman 
 origin. This is overlooked by a castle 
 on a rock, one of the last outlying 
 spurs from the neighbouring Alps. 
 There are here several inns (Post ; 
 Rosa ; Aquila Nera). The low hills on 
 either side of the road subside towards 
 the plain as the traveller reaches 
 
 Conegliano (196'), a well-built and 
 thriving town on the railway between 
 Venice and Trieste. It has several 
 fairly good hotels (Post; and another, at 
 least equally good, the name of which has 
 been mislaid), frequented in summer and 
 autumn by persons seeking air a little 
 cooler than that of the cities of the plain. 
 A traveller having a few hours to spare 
 should take a carriage to San Salvatore, 
 the ancient castle of the Colalto family, 
 and one of the finest in this part of 
 Italy. It commands a noble view over 
 the plain, extending in clear weather to 
 the towers of the City of the Lagoons.
 
 EOUTE B. — MONTE CRISTALLO. 
 
 509 
 
 ROTJTE B. 
 
 COETIKA d' AMPEZZO TO SCHLUDEEBACH, 
 BY THE MO>TE CfilSTALLO. 
 
 The post-road between Schluderbach 
 and Cortiua, described in the last Ete., 
 passes along the X. and "W. sides of a 
 small mountain mass culminating in the 
 Monte Cristallo. It is characteristic of 
 the structure of this region of the Alps, 
 •where the masonry of the mountains is 
 as full of variety and richness of detail 
 as a gothic cathedral, that there should 
 be scope for four or five quite distinct 
 and very interesting expeditious within 
 so small an area. Unfortunately, the 
 want of any accurate map of this part 
 of the present district makes it impossi- 
 ble to render descriptions intelligible 
 without entering into great detail. Tlie 
 writer is forced to refer those who would 
 explore this neighbourhood thoroughly 
 to a paper by Dr. Grohmann, in the 
 Jahrbuch of the Austrian Alpine Club 
 for 1866, wherein that active and perse- 
 vering mountaineer describes the mass 
 here spoken of in some detail, yet 
 scarcely so as to dispense with the need 
 of a map. On the S. side, towards the 
 head of the Auronzo valley, and the Tre 
 Croci Pass, the main mass of the Cri- 
 stallo shows a rather uniform front, with- 
 out those projecting towers and but- 
 tresses that are characteristic of most 
 of the peaks of this district. On the N. 
 side the case is very different, and not 
 less than 6 short valleys or glens radiate 
 from the central peaks. We shall here 
 briefly notice the more interesting ex- 
 cursions which may all be taken on the 
 ■way between Cortina and Schluderbach. 
 
 1. By the Lake of M<isurina. — 4^ hrs. 
 moderate walking. A little N. of E. from 
 Cortina every traveller notices the deep 
 and broad opening that separates two of 
 the chief rock masses of this district — 
 
 those of the Croda Malcora and the 
 Cristallo. This is the pass connecting 
 Cortina with Auronzo and the upper 
 valley of the Piave (Kte. E). A rough 
 cart-track giX'S as tar as the top, ard in 
 places the way may be short ^■ned by 
 striking across the pastures. \\\\x of 
 moderate walking suffices lo reach the 
 summit of the Tre Cron Pas-i (5.970'), 
 marked, as the name implies, by three 
 wooden crosses. ITo wevnr oft en the tra- 
 veller may pnss here en his way to ex- 
 cursions from Cnrtiiia, he must rejoice in 
 the noble view that opens westward over 
 the green basin of Ampezzo, guarded on 
 the N. by thi savage crags of the To- 
 fana. Near at hand to the N. rise the 
 ! Monte Cristallo and Piz Popena. The 
 j Croda Malcora is, however, not seen in 
 I full grandeur. SE. the view extends 
 down Val Baona, whicli name is given 
 to the upper end of the Aurmzo valley, 
 and in the background rises the grand 
 range of the Marmarolo, with small 
 glaciers lying in the clefts between its 
 giant towers. To E'^E., nearly in the 
 direction followed during the ascent from 
 Cortina, is an opening similar in charac- 
 ter to that of the Tre Croci, and about 
 the same height, between the Monte 
 Cristallo mass and the summits called 
 Cadine or Cadinspitzen. In the hollow 
 between them lies the Mesurina Alp. 
 After descending a very short way from 
 the Tre Croci, a track on the 1. leads 
 nearly at a level along the slope chiefly 
 amid forest, but after some 2 m. it 
 divides, and is gradually lost. It is 
 perfectly easy to pursue the same direc- 
 tion, rising very little, and so reach the 
 extensive pastures of the Mesurina 
 Alp surrounding a charming little lake, 
 Lago di Mesurina, famed for its delicious 
 trout. [The regular track from Val 
 Buona mounts from near the forester's 
 hut (Ete. E) along the streamlet from 
 the lake.] The way henceforward, 
 after passing the low ridge beyond the 
 lake, only 0,930 ft. in height, lies 
 through Val Popena, the easternmost 
 of the valleys lying on the N. side of the 
 Cristallo mass. The summit of Piz 
 ' Popena is not seen from the valley, and
 
 510 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 61. CADORE DISTRICT. 
 
 the dominant mountain is the Drei 
 Zinnen (9,833'), whose triple peak is seen 
 from the post-house at Landro. Passing 
 bet'A-een tlie rid_^e extending N. from 
 Monte Popena and the Monte Plan, the 
 traveller descends to the level of the 
 barren plain S. of the Diirren See, and 
 reaches Schluderbach in 1 hr. from the 
 Mesurina Alp. This is the more interest- 
 ing and agreeable way for a traveller going 
 from Cortina to Schluderbach. That 
 next described is to be preferred by one 
 travelling in the opposite direction. 
 
 2. Schluderbach to Cortina hy Vol 
 Grande. — About 45- hrs. The high- 
 road is followed as far as Ospedale. 
 There, as mentioned in Ete. A, the glen 
 called Vol Grande opens somewhat E. 
 of due S. This almost divides the higher 
 part of the Cristallo group from the 
 lower western portion. This shows 
 above the high-road between Peutel- 
 stein and Cortina as a st^ep and rug- 
 ged, but not very high, ridge, called 
 Poviagognon. Adjoining this, at the 
 head of Val Grande, is the some- , 
 wiiat higher Croda Cerdellis. An easy j 
 ascent of 2 hrs. from Ospedale leads to 
 the summit of the pass — locally called 
 La torca — between the latter summit 
 and the main mass of the Cristallo. To 
 enjoy the view it is necessary to ascend 
 a slight eminence beside the pass. A 
 rather stepp, but not difficult, descent, 
 leads in \ hr., or less, from La Forca to 
 the summit of the Tre Croei Pass, 
 whence Cortina is reached in another hr. j 
 There is another pass, called Zuynmelles, \ 
 lying farther W. than La Forca (between j 
 the Croda Cerdellis and Pomagognon ?), j 
 which is a rather more direct way to 
 Cortina ; but it is a little higher, and 
 tha descent rather steeper. 
 
 A traveller starting from Schluder- 
 bach, and having no occasion to descend 
 to Cortina, may traverse the Forca, then | 
 bear to the 1. below the great cliffs of j 
 Monte Cristallo, and return by the 1 
 Lake of Mesurina and Val Popena, in ( 
 little more than 6 hrs., exclusive of I 
 halts — an easy and charming expedition. | 
 
 3. By the Cristall-Pass. — About 6 hrs. | 
 Unlike those above described, this must i 
 
 be cotmted a rather difficult pass, very 
 attractive to practised mountaineers, 
 but requiring rope and ice-axe, and a 
 steady head. The pass had been very 
 rarely traversed by chamois-hunters, 
 until Dr. Grrohmann first crossed it in 
 1864. He has named it, and deter- 
 mined its height by careful barometrical 
 measurement. The Cristall-Fass {9,282') 
 is a deep cleft between the two highest 
 peaks of this mass, the Monte Cristallo 
 (10,644'), and Piz Fopena (10,389'), 
 resembling in many respects the Bocca 
 di Brenta, described in § 40, Ete. H. 
 On the N. side a rather considerable 
 glacier descends towards Val Fonda, 
 one of the recesses of the Cristallo, the 
 opening of which is reached in \ hi. 
 from Schluderbach. Val Fonda is a 
 hollow floored over by dolomite debris, 
 and enclosed between walls of the same 
 rock. It terminates, about H hr. from 
 Schluderbach, in a ravine through which 
 the water from the Cristallo glacier 
 descends between steep rocks. There 
 are t"no passages, known to a few of 
 the Ampezzo guides, and to Ploner, the 
 landlord at Schluderbach, by which the 
 rocks are surmounted. On attaining 
 the rock terrace above the ravine, the 
 glacier, with a small terminal moraine, 
 is seen near at hand. In order to 
 avoid the steepest part of the glacier, 
 it is best to ascend for nearly ^ hr. by 
 the rt. lateral moraine (on the tra- 
 veller's 1. hand ascending), till he 
 reaches a point where the slope of the 
 glacier is gentle, and the crevasses few. 
 Only at one point, near the middle of 
 the glacier. Dr. G-rohmann found any 
 difficulty from the crevassed condition 
 of the ice. In approaching the summit, 
 which is reached in .3^ hrs. from Schlu- 
 derbach, the slope is very gentle. But 
 little distant view is gained from the 
 pass, and the interest of the excursion 
 lies in the grand rock scenery. There 
 is scarcely another spot in the Alps so 
 wild and so strange that can be ap- 
 proached with so slight an outlay of 
 time and labour. The descent, though 
 steep, is easy and not fatiguing. It 
 lies through a cleft, or furrow, the
 
 ROUTE C— AGOr.DO. 
 
 511 
 
 channel of which is full of fine debris, 
 ■which is here called grava (gravel). In 
 the descent the views of Sorapis, Pelmo, 
 Civetta, and other peaks of this region 
 are very fine. The ground being fa- 
 vourable for a rapid descent, an active 
 mountaineer may easily reach Cortina 
 in 2 hrs. from the summit. In the 
 early summer, the cleft through which 
 the descent lies would probably be the 
 channel for water from the melting 
 snow of the upper part of the pass, and 
 might be found difficult and disagree- 
 able. 
 
 The ascent of Monte Cristallo was 
 accomplished for the first time from 
 the Cristall-Pass, in September, 1865, 
 by Dr. Grohmann with two local guides. 
 Mounting a short ice-slope, they accom- 
 plished the greater part of the ascent 
 by ledges that run along the face of the 
 mountain overlooking the Tre Croci 
 Pass. Though looking very slender 
 from below, these ledges generally af- 
 ford fair footing. At a height of about 
 10,000 ft.. Dr. Grohmann attained a 
 little shelf on the verge of the precipice, 
 whence a rather deep cleft leads up to 
 the topmost part of the mountain. The 
 summit is reached in 2^ hrs. from the 
 pass, not reckoning halts, and the 
 greater part of the way is sheer climb- 
 ing ; but it would appear that there are 
 only one or two ' bad places.' The 
 view is naturally very extensive, \>\\t it 
 must be owned that the chief induce- 
 ment to the ascent of the peaks of this 
 region is in the climb itself. When 
 the cragsman has acquired a little fa- 
 miliarity with the rock, so as not to 
 feel uneasy in places where the surface 
 is rotten, and pieces are detached by 
 the hand, he gets to prefer dolomite 
 climbing to all other rock-work, finding 
 it afford far more of excitement and 
 variety than the crystalline slates, or 
 even granite. Mr. Tuckett has reached 
 the summit with Santo Siorpaes in 5 hrs. 
 from Cortina, and descended to Schlu- 
 dernbach in ^^ hrs., not counting halts. 
 The Crisiallino (9,238'), one of the 
 secondary ridges of the Cristallo, rising 
 between Val Popena and Val Banche, 
 
 was ascended by Dr. Grohmann, Mr. 
 
 Sowerby, who attempted to go that way 
 to the Lake of Mcsurina, was led into 
 many difficulties by the guide above 
 named — A. Molins — and forced to de- 
 scend Val Popena and so return to 
 Schludernbach. 
 
 EOUTE C. 
 
 COETINA d' AMPEZZO TO BELLUNO, BT 
 AGOEDO. 
 
 Various bridle-paths and foot-paths lead 
 from Cortina to C'aprile in from 5 to 7 hrs. 
 Eough track thence to Cencenighe 8 m. Road 
 from Cencenighe to Agordo, 6 m. ; thence to 
 Belluno, by Mas, about 18 m.— in all about 
 46 m. 
 
 Reference has frequently been made 
 in preceding sections to the valley of 
 the Cordevole, the longest affluent of 
 the Piave, though the Boita has pro- 
 bably a more abundant stream. The 
 former, flowing from the valleys conter- 
 minous with the Passathal and Gader- 
 thal, joins the Piave midway between 
 Belluno and Feltre. An active traveller 
 may easily reach Belluno in one day 
 from Cortina ; but it is a far better 
 plan to give one or two extra days to the 
 journey, and to see something of the 
 fine scenery of the lateral valleys of the 
 Cordevole. There is good accommoda- 
 tion at Agordo, the chief place in the 
 main valley. 
 
 As mentioned in § 60, Rte. H, the 
 upper end of the Cordevole valley, N. 
 of the Tyrolese frontier, is collectively 
 called Livinallongo. This is divided 
 from the district of Ampezzo, at the 
 head of the Boita valley, by a ridge 
 rather higher and more continuous than 
 most of those in this district that lie 
 between the main peaks. The most 
 conspicuous summits in the ridge in 
 question, which serves to connect the 
 Monte Tofana with the Pelmo, are the 
 Isuvolau, Monte Gusella, Monte Car-
 
 612 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 61. CADORE DISTRICT. 
 
 nera, Punfa di Formin (8,858'), and 
 Becco cU Me-zodi (8,789'). This range 
 is traversed by many cattle-tracks, and 
 the way to Caprile may be much varied ; 
 but it suffices here to mention those 
 most convenient to travellers. 
 
 1. Cortina to Caprile hy Monte Giau. 
 This is sometimes called Pass of Monte 
 Gusella, hut Monte Gusella (8,499') is the 
 name of a projecting summit between the 
 pass and the Nuvolau. There are several 
 possi ble tracks, of which two are frequent- 
 ed, both commonly called Monte Giau, 
 but that described first is also known as 
 Passo di Palzarego. Excepting over a 
 portion of the descent to Caprile, ladies 
 may ride without inconvenience ; but it 
 is not easy to find suitable animals in 
 this district. The way from Cortina, 
 after crossing the Boita, and passing 
 the hamlet of Meleres, ascends gently 
 through the wooded glen of the Rio 
 Torto, till it reaches the extensive pas- 
 tures of the Monte Giau, which extend 
 some way on either side of the summit. 
 Before reaching it the track divides, 
 as there are two points of about 
 equal height, separated by a craggy 
 knoll, where it is usual to pass the 
 ridge. Either is reached from Cortina 
 in from 2^ to 3 hrs. Prom the summit 
 the Marniolata is conspicuous; but the 
 Pel mo is best seen lower down from Col 
 di Sta. Lucia. The two passes men- 
 tioned above correspond to two short 
 green glens locally called Val Zonia 
 and Val Piezza, which unite lower down 
 in Val Piorentina. The height of the 
 pass leading to Val Zonia is 7,511 ft. 
 The torrent of this valley, which flows 
 to join the Cordevole at Caprile, forms 
 for some distance the frontier between 
 Tyrol and Venetia, leaving to the former 
 the village of Col di Sta. Lucia (4,858'), 
 (often called Colle) above the rt. bank, 
 ■while Selva (4,482'), at a lower level on 
 the opposite side, belongs to Italy. There 
 are many tracks ; and it is possible to 
 avoid both villages. The ground is very 
 nneven, and in one place it is necessary 
 to reascend along the slope above the rt. 
 bank before the final descent to Caprile 
 is reached' The traveller is, however. 
 
 well rewarded for the extra labour hjr 
 an exquisite view, in which the Pelmo 
 and Civetta rival each other in grandeur. 
 The writer, although he has passed this 
 way twice, can throw no light on the 
 current story which, in varied forms, 
 affirms the existence of a picture by 
 Titian in the village of Sta. Lucia. Ac- 
 cording to Schaubach, it was painted in 
 fresco on the outer wall of the Viduin, 
 or parsonage. Covered with whitewash 
 by some subsequent occupant, it was, he 
 says, uncovered with difficulty. A steep 
 and rough descent leads in about 2^ 
 hrs. from the top to 
 
 Caprile (3,376'). The Lion of St. 
 Mark, on a marble tablet at the upper 
 end of the village, shows that this ha.9 
 long been a frontier village of Venetia. 
 The inn kept by Madame Pezze i* 
 praised by all travellers, and a favourite 
 place of resort. By a delicate attention 
 to English feeling, the Pall Mall Gczeite 
 is supplied in summer by the- Agordo 
 branch of the Italian Alpine Club. The 
 I statutes of the Cadore republic, dating 
 before 1600, are preserved in the house. 
 This village is so near the base of the 
 Marniolata, Pelmo, and Civetta, that 
 although most travellers making the 
 ascent of those peaks will prefer to 
 start from some spot nearer to the 
 summit, they can easily return to 
 dinner at Caprile. Very many shnrt 
 excursions of great interest are avail- 
 able for less ambitious travellers, and 
 the good inn attracts frequent visitors. 
 The guide for excursions of any diffi- 
 culty is Pellegrini, of the neighbouring 
 hamlet of Eocca. He is a fairly Ciood 
 mountaineer, and a pleasant companion. 
 2. Cortina to Caprile by the. Tre Sassi. 
 The road of the Tre Sassi has been no- 
 ticed in § 60, Ete. H, as being in the 
 direct line from the Gaderthal to Cor- 
 tina. It may be taken on the way to 
 Caprile, being only a little longer than 
 the pass of Monte Giau, and much 
 easier for ladies, as they may go in a 
 light carriage as far as the bridge over 
 the Cordevole belowBuehenstein, whence 
 it is a walk of little more than 1 hr. to 
 Caprile. The road from Cortina keeps
 
 ROUTE C. — LAKE OF ALLKGHL. 
 
 518 
 
 to the N. side of Val Falzarego, which ' 
 runs eastward from the pass along the \ 
 southera base of the Tofana. The ' 
 summit (7,073 ft. in height) lies between ' 
 the Tofana and a gix)up of ruinous-' 
 looking celumns and towers of dolomite 
 belonging to the range of Monte Nuvo- 
 lau. Bescending by the castle of Buch- 
 enstein t?o the kamlet of Buchenstein, | 
 or Andraz, the traveller bound forCaprile : 
 Eiust quit the new road which follows '■ 
 the rt. side of the valley to Pieve di 
 Andraz {% 60, Rte. H), and take the I 
 rougJier road by the 1. bank. This 
 passes m part through pine-forest, gain- 
 ing at intervals a noble view of the : 
 Civetta, rising behind the lake of | 
 Alleghe. The descent, to Caprile is j 
 6teep. but the track has been made j 
 passaleip for light vehicles. 3 hrs. i 
 should be allowed for reaching the Tre 
 Sassi from Cortina, and about 3 hrs. 
 for the descent to Caprile. On the 
 whole, the scenery of this route is 
 superior to that first described, but 
 there is no single object so grand as the 
 Pelmo seen from rear Col di Sta. Lucia. 
 
 3. By Monte Val. In Rte. A, refer- 
 ence is made among the excursions from 
 Cortina to a glen (named by Dr. Grroh- 
 niann Val Ambriciola) that mounts from 
 near that village in the direction of the 
 Becco di Mezzodi, By that way the 
 traveller may reach one of the upper 
 branches of Val Fiorentina, whose exten- 
 sive pastures are known by the name 
 Monte Val. A good path descends 
 thence to Selva (4,482') the chief village 
 of Val Fiorentina, and so to Caprile. 
 The writer has no acquaintance with 
 this route beyond the head of Val Am- 
 briciola. It appears to be rather intri- 
 cate, and it would not be wise to under- 
 take it -B-ithout a guide. 
 
 Caprile to Belluno. A rough cart- 
 track nms along the valley of the Corde- 
 vole below Caprile. At first the scenery 
 is not very interesting, but within little 
 more than two miles from Caprile, the 
 traveller reaches the charming little 
 Lake of Alleghe (3.220'), the gem of this 
 valley. The one defect of the Dolomite j 
 Alps is the absence of lakes — for the ' 
 
 s. T. t 
 
 tarns lying here and there in mountain- 
 hollov.-s do not deserve that name — and 
 the accident that produced this sheet 
 of blue water gives to the Civetta, whose 
 form is mirrored in its surface, a charm 
 not possessed by any of its rivals. The 
 lake originated in a great bergfall from 
 the Monte Pizzo, on the W. side of the 
 valley, that fell in January 1772, crushing 
 three hamlets and drowning a fourth in 
 the lake, which rapidly rose behind the 
 barrier so formed. A second fall, four 
 months after the first, caused even 
 greater destruction by driving the water 
 of the lake in formidable waves that 
 utterly destroyed the greater part of the 
 houses in the valley. The track, which 
 on leaving Caprile kept the 1. bank of 
 the stream, crosses to the opposite side, 
 and passes along the slopes above the W. 
 shore of the lake. Most travellers will 
 prefer to traverse the lake in a boat, 
 which may be ordered overnight by those 
 who sleep at Caprile. The village of 
 Alleghe, with a pretty spire to its church, 
 lies some way from the E. shore at the 
 opening of a glen, or recess, that seems 
 to penetrate to the very base of the 
 Civetta. This shows as a cleft mass of 
 not very bold outline, but with a vast 
 face of precipice, adorned with the most 
 delicate fretted work of spire and crag. 
 For a notice of the ascent see Ete, G. 
 
 At the S. end of the lake the track 
 makes a steep descent over the great 
 pile of rocks and debris that serves to 
 dam up the waters. Though partly 
 overgro^vTi with trees, this mound still 
 shows the appearance of its origin. The 
 valley bears to SSW., and is contracted 
 almost to a defile in passing round the 
 W. base of the Civetta. The cart-track 
 keeps the rt. bank of the Cordevole, 
 and about 4 m. below the end of the 
 lake, or 8 m. from Caprile, reaches 
 
 Cencenighe (2,544'), a village standing 
 at the junction of the Biois with the 
 Cordevole. The former torrent issues 
 from Val di Canale, through which lie 
 the routes to Val di Fiemme described 
 in § 60, and the remarkable way to San 
 Martino di Castrozza by Gares (§ 59, 
 Ete. L). There is a humble but decent
 
 514 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 61. C ADORE DISTRICT. 
 
 inn at Cencenighe, and thence the tra- 
 veller may ascend the Cima di Pape 
 (8,239'), a peak SW. of the village, 
 mainly formed of consolidated volcanic 
 ashes and scoriae. The ascent is said 
 not to be difficult. The view is pro- 
 bably finer from Mte. Pelsa (7,943'), on 
 the opposite side of the main valley. 
 This may be considered as a SW. outlier 
 from the dolomitic mass of the Civetta. It 
 is best reached from Listohide (see be- 
 low), but is more difficult of access than 
 the Cima di Pape. 
 
 [A traveller wishing to see some- 
 thing of the grand dolomite peaks that 
 rise between the Cordevole and San 
 Martino di Castrozza should start from 
 Cencenighe, or the rather better inn at 
 Forno di Canale, and ascend thence to 
 Grares (§ 59, Ete. L). From that place 
 a cattle-track leads by the Malgonera 
 Alp to the summit of the ridge dividing 
 Gares from the Valle di San Lucano. 
 From the pass called Caos la Forcella 
 ("6,355'), a beaten path leads down the 
 last-named glen to its junction with 
 the Cordevole valley.] At Cencenighe 
 begins the carriage-road that extends 
 to Belluno. At the hamlet of Fae 
 the road crosses to the 1. bank, and 
 soon after reaches Listolade, a hamlet 
 standing at the opening of Vcd Cor- 
 passa, an extremely wild and savage 
 glen by which the ascent of Monte Pelsa 
 is sometimes effected. The writer be- 
 lieves that it is possible to cross the 
 ridge connecting that summit with the 
 Civetta ; descending to the Cordevole 
 above Cencenighe. This must be a very 
 fine excursion. 
 
 On the opposite side of the Cordevole, 
 about 1 m. below Listolade, is Taibon, 
 at the opening of Fal di San Lucaiio, 
 through which lies the interesting way 
 to Primiero, noticed in § 59, Ete. K. 
 Little more than 1 m. farther is 
 
 Agordo (2,060'), the chief place in the 
 valley of the Cordevole. It is a small 
 town of nearly 3,000 inhabitants, with a 
 large piazza, one side of which is occu- 
 pied by the palazzo of Count Manzoni, 
 a resident proprietor. The best inn, of 
 which recent accounts are very favour- 
 
 able, is in the piazza. Nothing can be 
 finer than the position of "Agordo. It 
 stands near the opening of several lateral 
 valleys, in the midst of a small tract of 
 level or gently sloping ground, but en- 
 compassed by rock-scenery of the grand- 
 est character. Especially striking is the 
 Palle di San Lucano, rising in a sheer 
 precipice in the fork between the main 
 stream and the Valle di San Lucano. 
 Many mountain paths converge at 
 Agordo. The most frequented are 
 those leading to Primiero, either by the 
 quicksilver mine in Val Imperina, or 
 the shorter way by Grosaldo (§ 59, Ete. 
 K). In the opposite direction, or ENE., 
 two passes (noticed in Ete. G) lead to 
 Forno di Zoldo. Through the Val di 
 San Lucano is the way to Gares men- 
 tioned above, and the circuitous but 
 highly interesting way to Primiero by 
 Val di Canale (§ 59, Ete. K). The vege- 
 tation of the valley about Agordo is 
 very singular. Under the shade of the 
 surrounding crags many Alpine species 
 descend into the valley, and flourish on 
 the same level with the peach-tree, 
 chestnut, and even the vine. The draw- 
 back on the attractions of Agordo is the 
 neighbourhood of the mines in the ad- 
 joining Val Imperina. The copper-mine, 
 a government establishment, has been 
 long in operation, and a few years ago 
 produced about 200 tons of copper yearly. 
 Farther from Agordo, in the same val- 
 ley, is the more important quicksilver- 
 mine worked by a private company. The 
 process adopted to obtain the mercury 
 in the metallic state is said to be ef- 
 fective, and to spare the health of the 
 workmen. The fumes felt at Agordo 
 when the wind blows from the S. are 
 sulphureous exhalations from the copper- 
 mine, and have no relation to the quick • 
 silver-mine. 
 
 An omnibus plies between Belluno 
 and Agordo, starting from the former 
 city early in the morning, and returning; 
 in the afternoon. After passing close 
 to the copper-mine, and below a rock 
 which retains the name Castello di 
 Agordo, although the castle has utterly 
 disappeared, the road enters a defile of
 
 ROUTE C. — BELLUXO. 
 
 515 
 
 the grandest character. It is narro-wer, 
 wilder, and more savage than the defile 
 of the Breuta, described in § 59, Ete. A, 
 but "wanting in the contrasts that make 
 that so imposing an entrance into Italy. 
 As that is called Canal di Brenta, so 
 this retains the Venetian denomination, 
 Canal di Agordo. Near a roadside inn, 
 called La Stanga, the traveller passes a 
 lateral cleft, which is all that is seen of 
 the opening of Val di Piero. As far 
 back as local memory went, the torrent 
 that descends through the cleft had left 
 no room for human foot, and it "was not 
 till 1862 that the accidental fall of large 
 quantities of sand and gravel, during a 
 fit of "wet -weather, opened a "way into it. 
 It "Was found to be possible to penetrate 
 a considerable distance through the 
 cleft, so narrow that in places the sky 
 is completely lost to view, and finally to 
 reach a fine "waterfall, in an extremely 
 picturesque spot— an Oread's bath, never 
 before profaned by human presence. 
 Floods in the stream interriTpted the 
 access to this singular spot, but it is 
 believed that by means of planks it is 
 now made permanently accessible. In- 
 quiry should be made at the inn at La 
 Stanga, or from the official authorities 
 in Agordo. The defile comes abruptly 
 to an end in a very wild spot, near a 
 large road-side inn called El Peron 
 (1,311'). The road now passes close to 
 the site of one of the most formidable 
 bergfalls of which the traces are pre- 
 served in the Alps. At some period, 
 not extremely remote, the Cordevole 
 flowed SW. from the opening of the 
 defile to join the Mis torrent, which de- 
 scends from NNW., until an enormous 
 mass of mountain was detached from the 
 Spizzo di Vedana that rises between the 
 two streams. The ruins cover a space 
 nearly 4 m. long by 3 m. "wide. The 
 Cordevole was driven to make a circuit 
 to the E., and the Mis towards the W., 
 and they now meet at the S. end of the 
 ruins. A town called Comia, spoken of 
 in early documents relating to this 
 region, but no longer known to exist, is 
 supposed to lie beneath the hills of 
 debris on which has arisen the hamlet 
 
 L 
 
 of Vedana. A small lake is formed 
 near at hand, in a depression of the 
 surface. On reaching Mas (1,215'), a 
 short way below Peron, the ranges that 
 have hitherto confined the channel of 
 the Cordevole subside towards the broad 
 open valley of the Piave. The road to 
 Belluno quits the Cordevole, which joins 
 the Piave half-way between that town 
 and Feltre, and goes over a tract of un- 
 dulating tertiary hills, till it joins the 
 road from Feltre close to 
 
 Belluno (1,256'), a picturesque city, 
 with nearly 12,000 inhabitants. It has 
 numerous inns, of which the best are 
 Due Torri (very fair), and Leone d' Oro. 
 The cathedral by Palladio has a cain- 
 fanile, which commands a very fine 
 "dew of the surrounding coujitry. The 
 broad trough of the Pieve valley is over- 
 laid by a tertiary sandstone, through 
 which the Piave and its tributaries have 
 cut deep channels. The height given 
 above is that of the floor of the cathe- 
 dral, but at its ordinary level the river is 
 lower by 179 ft. The valley of the 
 Piave is further noticed in the next 
 Ete. 
 
 A siiccursale, or district branch, of 
 the Italian Alpine Club has been opened 
 at Agordo ; and mountaineers planning 
 excursions in the neighbourhood may 
 count on a courteous reception, and on 
 recei"vdng any available information. 
 
 L 2
 
 Eou 
 
 TE D. 
 
 
 LTRE TO FOKNO 
 
 AVOLTRI IN 
 
 FEin 
 
 
 Italian 
 
 Eng. 
 
 
 geog. miles 
 
 miles 
 
 Belluno 
 
 :% 
 
 18| 
 
 Longarone • 
 
 n 
 
 Pieve di Cadore . 
 
 . 16 
 
 m 
 
 San Stef ano . 
 
 . 14 
 
 m 
 
 Forno Avoltri 
 
 . Hi 
 
 m 
 
 516 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 61. CADORE DISTRICT. 
 
 wide bed of the Cordevole, in which ate 
 seen rolled blocks of porphyry and other 
 igneous rocks, brought down from the 
 mountains that surround the sources of 
 the stream. The valley loses something 
 of its breadth in ap^jroaching Belkino. 
 (See last Ete.) 
 
 In the space betweea that city 
 and Capo di Ponte, the most con- 
 spicuous object is the Monte Serva 
 (6,968'). The summit, rising WNW. of 
 the latter village, commands an ex- 
 tremely interesting view, as, in addition 
 to most of the higher peaks of the Ca- 
 dore Alps, it overlooks the finest part of 
 the valley of the Piave, as well as the 
 ancient channel of that river between 
 Capo di Ponte and Serravalle. The 
 blue lake of Santa Croce, and in the far 
 distance the lagoons of Venice and the 
 Adriatic, complete the panorama. The 
 view from Monte Cavallo (§ 62, Ete. I) 
 includes a larger portion of the coast 
 and of the low country ; but the moun- 
 tain view is inferior to this. The as- 
 cent of Monte Serv-a is best made from 
 the glen of the Ardo, which torrent joins 
 the Piave at Belluno. An active walker 
 may take the summit on the way to 
 Longarone, descending to rejoin the road 
 about 2 m. N. of Capo di Ponte ; but 
 the ascent is more laborious than might 
 be expected by a mountaineer who for- 
 gets that his starting-point is a low and 
 hot valley. The road from Capo di 
 Ponte to Tai di Cadore is described in 
 Ete. A. Above Longarone the botanist 
 will observe Sjnrsa decvmbens, fre- 
 quently occurring on rocks by the road- 
 side. It is confined to the upper valley 
 of the Piave, and the adjacent valleys of 
 Friuli. At Tai di Cadore the high-road 
 to Cortina turns sharply to the 1., while 
 a short piece of road to the rt. leads to 
 
 Pieve di Cadore {2,907'), a picturesque 
 little town with a fair country inn (kept 
 by Toscani ?), cheaper and quieter than 
 that at Tai. It stands on a sort of 
 saddle connecting the "W. side of the 
 valley with a bold projecting rock that 
 stands out as a promontory above the 
 deep gorge of the Piave. This was 
 crowned by an ancient castle, long held 
 
 66i 76i 
 
 Within the last few years the road 
 through the valley of the Piave, which 
 was not practicable for carriages over 
 the pass connecting the head of that 
 valley with Friuli, has been completed 
 to Forno Avoltri, the highest village 
 on the northern branch of the Taglia- 
 mento. This is in itself a very inte- 
 resting route, and it aiFords an easy way 
 of connecting a tour in the Cadore Alps 
 with a visit to the upper valleys of the 
 Tagliamento. Very fair accommoda- 
 tion is found at San Stefano, and at 
 Sappada. 
 
 The lower part of the valley of the 
 Piave was noticed in § 59, Ete. C, in 
 describing the road from Bassano to 
 Feltre. The latter town stands on a 
 terrace some 300 ft. above the Piave, 
 and 2 or 3 m. distance from the 
 river. Thence to Capo di Ponte, above 
 Belluno, the valley is a broad trough 
 gently sloping between mountains, 
 whose undulating floor is covered by 
 sandy deposits of tertiary age. Without 
 pretensions to grandeur, for only at in- 
 tervals are the higher peaks of the 
 Cadore Alps in view, the scenery is 
 extremely pleasing. Many of the large 
 villas belonging to the proprietors are 
 surrounded by meadow land, with scat- 
 tered plantations, more resembling Eng- 
 lish parks than anything commonly seen 
 in the S. of Europe, There is a road 
 by the 1. bank of the Piave, by Lentiai 
 and Mel, which probably commands fine 
 views of the high mountains NW. of the 
 valley ; but the post-road keeps near the 
 base of the hills,usually at a considerable 
 distance from the rt. bank of the river. 
 Eather more than half-way from Feltre 
 a long bridge at JJribano crosses the
 
 ROUTE D.— DISTRICT OF COMELICO. 
 
 517 
 
 by the Venetians to protect this en- 
 trance into their territory till it was 
 blown up by the French in 1796. 
 
 The name of the little town has been 
 made known afar as the birthplace of 
 Titian — Tiziano Vecellio. One (the 
 last?) of the great painter's collateral 
 descendants — Alessandro Vecellio, died 
 here within the last few years. The 
 paternal home of the painter (an ordi- 
 nary village house) is marked by an 
 inscription ; and a large figvire of him, 
 some 14 ft. in height, is painted on a 
 campanile adjacent to the pretura, or 
 court-house. The great man did not 
 leave much evidence of his genius in 
 his native place. There are two pic- 
 tuP3s here attributed to him. That 
 formerly in Casa Jacobi, now in the 
 church, was probably in part executed by 
 the master. The other, known as the 
 ' Genova ' picture, has been so much re- 
 touched or repainted, that it is hard to 
 decide on its claims. 
 
 The traveller who may halt here 
 should not lose the view from the 
 castle rock, and should make a some- 
 what longer stroll along the ridge of 
 Monte Zucco (Rte. A). From the far- 
 ther end of the ridge there is a striking 
 view into the gorge of the Eoita, and 
 the Pelmo is seen in full grandeur a 
 little N. of W. A rather longer walk, 
 recommended by Messrs. Gilbert and 
 Churchill, is the ascent of a point NW. 
 of Tai, marked by a little chapel of San 
 Dionigi. 3 hrs. are required for the 
 ascent. The Forcella Piccola, leading 
 to San Vito, is described in Rte. F. 
 
 Horses and vehicles are more often to 
 be had at Pieve di Cadore than at Tai, 
 but it is sometimes necessary to send to 
 Venas. 
 
 The scenery of the upper valley of 
 the Piave is extremely line, and as the 
 traveller passes the opening of suc- 
 cessive lateral glens, he usually receives 
 the promise of scenes still more wild 
 and striking. The first considerable 
 \'illage, towards which the road descends 
 from La Pieve, is Lomegge, between 3 
 and 4 m. distant. There are here pic- 
 tTires of doubtful authenticity, attri- 
 
 buted to Titian, in the chapels of San 
 Barnaba and San Eocco. The road 
 now passes along the E. end of the 
 range of the Marmarolo, which deserves 
 to rank among the dolomite giants. 
 The summits of some of the extra- 
 ordinary towers of rock that form the 
 range are seen from Pieve di Cadore, 
 and from other spots on the road, but 
 to appreciate the grandeur of the 
 group, the traveller must visit the Au- 
 ronzo valley (Ete. E). After passing 
 Lozzo (2,482'), with an inn kept by an. 
 apothecary, the road begins to ascend 
 more steadily towards the opening of 
 that beautiful valley, wherein the dome 
 of the new church of Auronzo is seen 
 for a moment. The skill of the engineer 
 is shown at the TrfPow^'i (2,401'), erected 
 at the junction of the Piave of the 
 Anziei from the Auronzo valley. Arches 
 thrown 90 ft. above the three streams are 
 made to abut upon a single central pier, 
 thus allowing communication with ei- 
 ther bank of either stream. Above the 
 junction the Monte Cornon, towering 
 over the 1. bank of the Piave, becomes 
 the dominant object in the valley. The 
 scenery is as wild as the mountaineer 
 can desire, but the defile opens out be- 
 fore reaching 
 
 San Stefano (3,127'), the chief place 
 in the uppermost branch of the vaUey, 
 which forms the district of Cc/melico. 
 The inn ( Aquila d' Oro ?) is very good 
 for so remote a place. A good guide, 
 by najne Felice Pomare, formerly lived 
 near the village. He knows the coun- 
 try well, and could tell many curious 
 tales of bears, who appear to be more 
 common here than in any other part 
 of the Alps. On the Alpine pastures 
 the traveller may often hear a boy 
 sounding a horn, intended to warn off 
 these mischievous visitors. 
 
 At San Stefano the valley forks. 
 Hitherto the prevailing direction has 
 varied between NNE. and NE. Hence- 
 forward the traveller mounts about 
 due E. towards the head of the main 
 valley; while the Padola torrent de- 
 scends from NXW. through an equally 
 considerable branch. That way runs
 
 518 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 61. CADORE DISTRICT. 
 
 the road to Innichen, noticed in Rte. 
 H. 
 
 Above San Stefano the valley has a 
 pastoral air, and the eye, almost fa- 
 tigued by the stern grandeur of grey 
 precipices, rests with pleasure on the 
 green meadows and deciduous trees of 
 Comelico. Passing the opening of Val 
 Visdende, a beautiful glen that in one 
 direction runs up to the peak of Mont© 
 Paralba (§ 62, Rte. D), and leads north- 
 ward by another branch to the upper 
 end of the Gailthal, the new road 
 ascends to Sappada, known to its Ger- 
 man inhabitants as Flon, and also 
 called Grandvilla. It includes two 
 principal groups of houses, of which 
 the farther, on a level with the top of 
 the pass, is locally known as Cima. 
 The commune is inhabited by a Ger- 
 man colony that appears at some re- 
 mote period to have migrated from 
 the Pusterthal. There is a fair coun- 
 try inn, and the position is agree- 
 able, and may serve as centre for seve- 
 ral excursions. A little below the 
 largest hamlet (4,026 ft. above the sea), 
 a glen opens to SW. that runs up 
 towards the Terza Grande (8,474'). On 
 the opposite or N. side of the valley is 
 the Monte Rinaldo, but at Cima (about 
 1^ m. above the chief village) a short 
 glen opens to the N. and leads straight 
 up to the noble peak of Monte Paralba, 
 further noticed in § 62, Ete. D. It 
 is not directly accessible from the S. 
 Bide. A short but rather steep descent 
 leads from Cima to Forno Avoltri 
 (3,492'), the highest village on the 
 Degano, or N. branch of the Taglia- 
 mento. Standing in the immediate 
 neighbourhood of magnificent scenery, 
 this place might be much resorted to 
 by travellers if provided with a good 
 inn. That found by the writer in 1857 
 was dirty and disagreeable, but subse- 
 quent travellers have given a rather 
 more favourable report of the Cavallo 
 Bianco. Maize grows lux\iriantly about 
 Forno Avoltri, while no grain but oats 
 seems to grow round Sappada. The 
 valley of the Degano, or Canal di i 
 Q-orto, is described in the next §. 
 
 EOUTE E. 
 
 SAN STEFANO TO COBTINA d' AiTPEZZO, 
 BY ATJBONZO. THE CEODA iLAXCOEA. 
 
 The exquisitely beautiful valley of 
 Auronzo lies in the direct way for 
 a traveller approaching Cortina from 
 the head of the valley of the Piave ; but 
 it has such powerful attractions, and is 
 so easy of access, that no traveller will 
 regret making the slight detour neces- 
 sary to reach Cortina this way from the 
 high-road at Tai di Cadore, the excur- 
 sion being easily completed in a single 
 day. Many travellers, besides the pre- 
 sent writer, have experienced the diffi- 
 culty of avoiding the use of superlatives 
 in describing this region ; but it is not 
 too much to say, with the images of 
 many other glorious scenes present to 
 his memory, that he seeks in vain for 
 any valley offering more exquisite com- 
 binations of the grand, the beautiful, 
 and the fantastic, than are here found 
 in favourable weather. A good road for 
 light vehicles is carried up the valley for 
 a distance of 9 m. above the village of 
 Auronzo ; and though rough is practi- 
 cable all the way to Cortina. The 
 traveller who would become thoroughly 
 acquainted with the valley will also 
 cross the Forcella Grande, even if he be 
 not tempted to undertake the difficult 
 ascent of the Sorapis.
 
 BOUTE E. — VALLET OF ACKONZO. 
 
 619 
 
 StartingfromSanStefanoina carriage, 
 it is necessary to descend thevalle) o/tho 
 Piave for a distance of 5 or 6 m. to reach 
 the opening of the Auronzo valley, and 
 then to ascend to the village, nearly 4 m. 
 from the Tre Ponti, mentioned in the last 
 Kte. The pedestrian with a local guide, 
 crossing a low hill, may in 2 hre. from 
 San Stefano reach 
 
 Auronzo. It includes two separate 
 villages, of wliich the lower, called Villa 
 Piccola (2,911'), has a large new church. 
 Farther on is Villa Grande. The 
 accounts of the accommodation here are 
 discordant, but there are now at least 
 two very fair inns. The best is that of 
 Pampanini, half-way between the two 
 villages. Another, kept by Beppe Bom- 
 basei, at the Villa Grande, is clean, and 
 gives tolerable food. Piero Orsolina, a 
 famous chamois-hunter, is the best 
 guide here ; he knows well most of the 
 Cortina country. The great variety of 
 scenery enjoyed by a traveller passing 
 through the valley of Auronzo arises in 
 great part from the sinuous course pur- 
 sued by the stream. The head of the 
 main valley is bounded by the low Tre 
 Croci Pass, noticed in Ete. B, lying 
 between the masses of the Croda Mal- 
 cora and the Cristallo. On the S. side 
 of the valley, divided from the Malcora 
 by the Forcella Grande, and extending 
 to the slopes above Auronzo, is the range 
 of the Marvmrolo. This probably ex- 
 ceeds the limit of 10,000ft., but falls short 
 of tlie height of the chief peaks of this 
 district. In Oct. 1867 the Cav. Somano, 
 with Giuseppe Toflfoli of Calalzo as 
 guide, reached one of the higher sum- 
 mits, but the highest was not attained 
 until 1 872, by Messrs. Utterson, Kelso, 
 and Trueman, with Santo Siorpaes and 
 Luigi Orsolina of Auronzo. The moun- 
 tain shows, from whatever side it is 
 viewed, a group of high towers and 
 pinnacles, and many small patches of 
 glacier hang from the rifts that separate 
 them. The western end of the Mar-, 
 marolo range, nearest to the Forcella'' 
 Grande, is locally called Meduze. The 
 mass of mountains lying N. and W. of 
 Auronzo i^ still imperfectly known and 
 
 very ill kid down on maps ; but much 
 information as to the passes leading 
 that way to Sexten will be found in Rte, 
 H, in which it will be seen that the 
 mountaineer has a choice among several 
 very grand routes to Landro as well as 
 to Sexten. Besides those there mentioned 
 should be noted a pass which Mr. 
 Holzmann has named Forcella di Marson 
 leading from the head of Val Marson ti) 
 that of Val Rimbianco by the S. side 
 of the peaks of the Drei Zinnen. 
 
 A verj- fine view of aU the mountains 
 enclosing the valley, besides several of 
 the more western peaks, is gained from, 
 a rather steep grassy ridge (Monte Me- 
 lone?) rising W. of the village, which 
 may be considered a NE. spur of the 
 Marmarolo. The scenery of the lower 
 part of the valley of Auronzo is far less 
 striking than at the upper end, but 
 beautiful throughout, The peculiarity 
 of the valley is the contrast of charming 
 park scenery — open spaces of green 
 smooth sward, and masses of noble pine- 
 trees — with the shattered pale grey 
 peaks that rise on every side. The 
 general direction, in ascending the 
 valley, is at first about NW. ; it then 
 bends to SW., winding back to NW., 
 after rounding the base of a projecting 
 summit called Campoduro. Only two 
 or three small clusters of houses are seen 
 on the way. The road keeps to the 1. bank 
 of the Anziei, but at a bridge about 
 half-way up the valley the pedestrian 
 seeking shade may with advantage 
 cross to the rt. bank, and follow a 
 pleasant path through the forest. In 
 fully 4 hrs. from the Villa Grande the 
 traveller reaches the lonely forester's 
 house in Val Buona, as the upper end 
 of the Auronzo valley is locally called. 
 From an open green space of meagre 
 sheep-pasture the traveller obtains a 
 view which, under moderately favoura- 
 ble conditions, leaves an ineffaceable 
 impression. Nearly due S., through 
 dense pine-forest, lies the way to the 
 Forcella Grande (see below), while to 
 SW. the eye penetrates through Val 
 Sorapis into the innermost recesses of 
 the Croda Malcora, culminating in tha
 
 520 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 61. CADORE DISTRICT. 
 
 peaks of the Sorapis and Foppa di 
 Mathia. Above a first high barrier, 
 down which hangs a slender waterfall, 
 the rocks rise, seamed with transverse 
 bands of ice, till they become one vast 
 mass of shattered wall. Even an expe- 
 rienced mountaineer may doubt whether 
 there be any other outlet to this rock- 
 prison. It is a cirque, less complete and 
 regular in form than that of Gavarnie, 
 but even surpassing the latter in the 
 grandeur of the rock-scenery. The 
 passes connecting the head of Val 
 Sorapis with Ampezzo are fit only for 
 practised cragsmen, but an excursion to 
 the lake, which lies concealed behind the 
 first high step of rock, is easily made in 
 \^ hr. from the forester's house. The 
 owner, named Bastian. is thoroughly 
 acquainted with the surrounding forests, 
 through which a stranger cannot easily 
 find his way. 
 
 His house (4,557 ft. above the sea) 
 is a convenient starting-point for se- 
 veral Alpine expeditions, and he re- 
 ceives strangers hospitably ; but the re- 
 sources of the place are very limited, often 
 failing even in milk, and the house is at 
 night sometimes unpleasantly crowded 
 by country people. Soon after passing 
 Bastian' s house the view of the Val 
 Sorapis is shut out by one of the spurs 
 from the N. end of the Malcora mass 
 which Dr. G-rohmann has called the 
 Cesta ridge. To the rt., however, the 
 crags of Monte Cristallo rise very 
 grandly, and the interest of the walk is 
 renewed when the traveller gains the 
 summit of the Tre Croci Pass (5,970'), 
 and looks out westward over the green 
 basin of Ampezzo, guarded by the To- 
 fana and many another rugged peak. 
 The distance from Bastian's house to 
 Cortina is about 2^ hrs.' steady walking. 
 The track though rough and steep is 
 passable for light vehicles, but there 
 are one or two places where a stranger 
 might confound the woodcutters' roads 
 through the forest with the true way to 
 Cortina. The descent from the Tre 
 Croci to Cortina is perfectly easy, and 
 it is impossible to miss the way. 
 
 A traveller who has made the excur- 
 
 1 sion from the forester's house to the 
 1 Lago Sorapis need not return thither if 
 ! bound for Cortina. There is a path by 
 the Alpe di Malcora, and by a little 
 , stream called Potamei, that rejoins the 
 } ordinary track over the Tre Croci on 
 j the E. side, at no great distance below 
 the summit. 
 
 The Forcella Grande. Eeference has 
 been already made to the Forcella 
 Grande, the depression which divides 
 the Marmarolo range from the Croda 
 Malcora. By that way the traveller 
 may reach the Ampezzo road at San 
 Vito or Chiapuzzo, choosing the latter 
 if he be bound for Cortina. The scenery 
 is wild and strange, rather than beauti- 
 ful, and there is no distant view until 
 he has descended some way on the E. 
 side. From the forester's hut, men- 
 tioned above, the way lies through 
 dense forest, and then up very steep 
 slopes, in great part covered with 
 krummholz, on the rt., or Marmarolo 
 side of the torrent. A good local guide 
 is here necessary; there is only a faintly 
 marked path, which quite disappears at 
 intervals. On attaining the upper end 
 of this long and dark ravine, locally 
 called Valie di San Vito, the practised 
 mountaineer may send back his guide. 
 The highest point of the Forcella Grande 
 (7,536') is shut in on either side between 
 great rock-walls. A steep but not dif- 
 ficult couloir filled with fine debris 
 leads rapidly down to a ridge that 
 projects somewhat from the main mass 
 towards the Ampezzo road. This ridge, 
 called Col del Prato di Mason, com- 
 mands an extremely fine view over the 
 valley of the Boita, and its colossal 
 guardian peaks. A track by the 1. side 
 of the ridge leads to San Vito (Rte. A), 
 but those bound for Cortina keep to the 
 rt., and reach the road at Chiapuzzo. 
 On the way to Cortina is a spring of 
 cold water, well known as Acqua Buona, 
 which always tempts the mountaineer 
 to an agreeable halt. This pass is best 
 fitted for a traveller who wishes to 
 make the circuit of the Croda Malcora 
 from Cortina, a fine day's walk. He 
 should start early, and endeavour to
 
 ROUTE E. — ASCENT OF THE SORAPIS. 
 
 621 
 
 Bectire beforehand the assistance of 
 Bastian the forester to guide him as far 
 as the summit of the Forcella Grande. 
 The distances may he reckoned — Cortina 
 to Bastian's house, 2^ hrs.; thence to 
 Forcella Grrande, nearly 4 hrs. ; descent 
 tx) Col di Prato da Mason, ^ hr. ; 
 thence to Cortina, 2:^ hrs.; in all rather 
 more than 9 hrs. 
 
 Bi/ the Croda Makora. Ascent of 
 the Sorapis. The writer has in this 
 district very generally followed the 
 authority of Dr. Grohmaun, who has 
 been its most persevering and successful 
 explorer, but he is unable to abandon 
 the generally-adopted name Croda Mai- 
 cora, as the collective designation of 
 that vast mass of crag that rises on the 
 E. side of the valley of the Boita below 
 Cortina. He willingly adopts the 
 names Sorapis and Foppa di Mathia 
 for the two highest peaks, of which the 
 former was first reached in 1864 by Dr. 
 Grohmann with two Ampezzo guides 
 (F. Lacedelli and Angelo Diraaj) after 
 two exploring excursions, and two pre- 
 vious unsuccessful attempts to reach 
 the top. Those who wish for full in- 
 formation are referred to the Jahrbuch 
 of the Austrian Alpine Club for 1865. 
 In the course of his explorations. Dr. 
 Grohmann traversed two singular passes 
 across the ridge of the Malcora connect- 
 ing Val Sorapis with the Ampezzo road. 
 Such passages in the most hopeless- 
 looking spots are found from time to 
 time by chamois-hunters ; but the most 
 experienced mountaineer has little 
 chance of hitting upon them without a 
 guide. 
 
 The principal part of the Croda Mal- 
 cora consists in the long ridge of preci- 
 pice extending from the Forcella Grande 
 towards Cortina, and culminating in the 
 Foppa di Mathia (10,763'). From that 
 peak a shorter but higher ridge diverges 
 to NE. It includes the Sorapis (10,798') 
 — the highest peak of the entire mass — 
 and falls away in a descending series of 
 pinnacles and towers towards the valley 
 of Auronzo. In the angle between these 
 two ranges lies Val Sorapis, and through 
 that wild glen the traveller will ap- 
 
 proach the heart of the moimtain. Start- 
 ing from Cortina, the traveller reaches 
 j the Loffo Sorapis (6.334') in about 3^ 
 j hrs., by the Alpe di Malcora (see above), 
 i or fully 4 hrs. if he should make the 
 ' detour by Bastian's house. Nothing can 
 : be vrilder than the lake and its sur- 
 roundings, and the gnarled trunks of 
 : the creeping pine {krummholz) scarcely 
 , relieve the sternness of the scene. Near 
 j at hand is a cave, in the local dialect 
 ; landro, with a spring of fresh water, 
 j which gives lodging to a herdsman for 
 a few weeks in summer. Above the 
 lake a second step in the ascent has to 
 be surmounted, a small glacier is passed, 
 and the head of the glen is a hollow 
 called I Fondi. Here the traveller has 
 on his 1. hand the walls of rock that run 
 up to the two highest peaks and the ridge 
 connecting them. To the rt. is the steep 
 slope leading to the Selletta Pass, while 
 straight forward a steep ascent leads to 
 the pass known to a few chamois- 
 hunters as Sora la Cengia del Banco 
 (8,493'). It hes to the 1. of the lowest 
 point in the ridge connecting the Foppa 
 di Mathia with the Cima Negra. Here 
 the traveller stands on the crest of that 
 formidable range of precipices that over- 
 looks the valley of the Boita, and mar- 
 vels how the descent is to be effected. 
 He follows for some 100 yards a hori- 
 zontal ledge along the face of the Foppa 
 di Mathia, and then reaches a point 
 where the rocks become comparatively 
 easy, and give good hold for feet and 
 hands. Lower down short zigzag slopes 
 of debris render the way stdl easier, 
 and the high-road is reached about 1^ 
 m. below the Acqua Buona. An active 
 walker will reach the summit of the 
 pass in less than 2 hrs. from the lake, 
 and may descend to Cortina in 3 hrs. ; of 
 course excluding halts. There is a more 
 direct, but scarcely so interesting a way, 
 from I Fondi at the head of Val So- 
 rapis, to Cortina, by the Selletta Pass 
 (8,697')- This is a slight depression 
 that separates the northern end of the 
 Malcora range (called by Dr. Groh- 
 mann, Cesta range) from the main mass. 
 The summit is reached in about 1 hr. of
 
 522 S. TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § Gl. CADOPE DISTRICT. 
 
 Bteep, but not difficult, ascent from I 
 Fondi (2:^ hrs. from Lago Sorapis). The 
 descent lies in part through a steep 
 ravine called Yal Faloria, that falls some 
 way towards the Boita, and then comes 
 to an abrupt end. To the rt. are the 
 pastures of Morite Casadio, whence a 
 broad easy track leads to join the 
 ordinary "way from the Tre Croci to 
 Cortina. 
 
 The ascent of the Sorapis (10,798') 
 appears to be the most difficult of those 
 hitherto accomplished in this district, 
 as is shown by the fact that so practised 
 a mountaineer as Dr. 'jrohmann em- 
 ployed Tj hrs. in reaching the summit 
 from I Fondi. A stiff scramble leads 
 thence to a sort of shelf on the face of 
 the Foppa, called by Dr. Grohmann Pian 
 della Foppa. Still steeper was the climb 
 from that point to the topmost ridge. 
 Much time was consumed in following 
 this ridge, which seems to have been the 
 most difficult part of the expedition. In 
 returning. Dr. G-rohmann and his guides 
 effected, though "with difficulty, the de- 
 scent on the opposite side of the highest 
 ridge through an excessively steep rocky 
 ravine, called by him Sorapiskar. This 
 opens on the Auronzo side of the pass 
 of the Forcella Grande ; and Dr. Groh- 
 mann draws the just conclusion that 
 future ascents should be attempted from 
 San Vito rather than from Cortina, which 
 is too distant, and involves a circuitous 
 route. The only alternative is to pass 
 the night in the cavern near the Lago 
 Sorapis. 
 
 EOUTB F. 
 
 BAN VITO TO PIEVE DI CADOEE. MOKTB 
 AKTELAO. 
 
 About 6 hrs.' steady walking from San Vito 
 to La Pieve. ■ 
 
 The Forcella Piccola, a much deeper | 
 and wider depression than the Forcella : 
 Grande, described in the last Rte., di- 
 vides the range of the Marmarolo from j 
 the Antelao, which, though the fact is 
 not yet positively ascertained, is most , 
 probably the highest of the Cadore Alps. [ 
 
 Like the Marmolata,this affects a form 
 not common among the dolomite peaks, 
 the declivity on the N. and NE. sides 
 being that of a moderately steep house- 
 roof. This allows of the accumulation 
 of sufficient snow to form a rather ex- 
 tensive glacier, and makes the ascent, 
 save at one point near the top, easier 
 than that of any of its lofty neighbours. 
 An active mountaineer may combine 
 the ascent with the pass of the Forcella 
 Piccola in one long day. This is an easy 
 and somewhat frequented pass, as it 
 much shortens the way from San Vito 
 to Domegge and Calalzo, and offers to 
 the tourist a more agreeable and inte- 
 resting way than that by the high-road. 
 A guide appears to be scarcely neces- 
 sary. In 2^ hrs., or even less, the sum- 
 mit of the Forcella is reached from San 
 Vito. It does not appear to have been 
 measured, but cannot, in the writer's 
 opinion, much surpass 6,000 ft. The 
 most conspicuous and striking object in 
 the view is the Pelmo, which shows 
 grandly. The ridge of the Antelao close 
 at hand on the rt. is also well seen. 
 The pass is broad, and nearly levtl for 
 some way. and then the track begins to 
 slope rapidly towards Val Oien. It lies 
 for a considerable distance in a couloir 
 or channel wherein water runs in rainy 
 weather, while in the hot season it is 
 unpleasantly exposed to the unshaded 
 force of the sun. When possible, it is 
 best to pass this way in the afternoon, 
 when the sun begins to sink behind the 
 mass of the Antelao. In 3 hrs. from 
 the top the traveller reaches the thriving 
 village of Calalzo (2,684'), near the open- 
 ing of Val Oten, but some way above 
 the road from Pieve di Cadore to Do- 
 megge. It is necessary to descend some 
 300 ft. to the road, and remount at least 
 twice that height, in order to reach the 
 former place, for which see Rte. D. 
 
 The first ascent of the highest peak 
 of the Antelao was made by Dr. Groh- 
 mann in 1863, and the next by the late 
 Lord F. Douglas and Mr. F. L. Latham 
 in 1864. Both were accompanied \>y 
 Matteo Ossi of Besinego, of whom the 
 English travellers gave a good account.
 
 ROUTE G. — VAL DI ZOLDO. 
 
 523 
 
 Dr. Grohmann reports less favourably 
 of his qualifications, and found his de- 
 mands unreasonable. 
 
 On reaching the summit of the For- 
 eella Piccola, the NW. ridge of the 
 Antelao is seen to descend towards the 
 pass, but is separated from it by a deep 
 hollow that runs into the mass of the 
 mountain, and is enclosed by steep walls 
 of rock. To gain the ridge it is best to 
 follow the 1. hand side of this hollow 
 for about half its length, and thus reach 
 a point whence the rocky wall is climbed 
 without difficulty, and the traveller sets 
 foot on the ridge, "which is long, but 
 of moderate steepness and quite easy. 
 Late in the summer it is not necessary 
 to touch the snow-slopes, which, as seen 
 from Cortina, partially cover this side of 
 the peak. On reaching the summit of 
 this long ascent, the traveller is con- 
 fronted by a pinnacle or horn of rock, 
 the highest summit of the mountain, 
 which rises with formidable steepness 
 to a height of 200 or 300 ft. This had 
 always passed for inaccessible until one 
 of Dr. G-rohmann's companions, a man 
 from Cortina, detected a cleft by which 
 the ascent is effected without real diffi- 
 culty, except at one point, "where a tra- 
 veller not used to steep rock-climbing 
 should adopt the rope as a security. 
 About 11 hrs., exclusive of halts, should 
 be allowed for going and returning 
 from San Vito, and 13 hrs., if the peak 
 be climbed on the way from that place 
 to Pieve di Cadore. 
 
 EorxE G-. 
 
 SAN VITO TO LONGAEONE, BY VAI, DI 
 ZOLDO. MONTE PELMO. MONTE CIVETTA. 
 
 In the preceding Etes. it has been 
 seen that San Vito is the best starting- 
 point for the ascent of the Antelao and 
 the Sorapis, and also for the passes of 
 the Forcella Grande and Forcella Pic- 
 cola. From the same place it is also 
 possible to ascend the Pelmo, or to pass 
 round the base of that mountain in 
 order to visit a retired but beautiful! 
 
 . valley which remains to be noticed. 
 This is Val di Zoldo, which originates 
 between the peaks of the Pelmo and 
 Civetta, and descends between the 
 nearly parallel valleys of the Boita and 
 Cordevole to join the Piave at Longa- 
 rone. Another track, noticed below, 
 goes from San Vito by the N. side of 
 the Pelmo, and leads directly to Caprile, 
 or, by a circuitous but beautiful way, to 
 the head of Val di Zoldo. 
 
 It is obvious that San Vito is des- 
 tined to be a favourite resort of tourists 
 whenever this district shall be more 
 fully known, and when adequate accom- 
 modation shall be provided there. See 
 Rte. A. 
 
 Thp most direct way from San Vito 
 to Val di Zoldo is to follo-w the post- 
 road as far as J3orca, and there cross the 
 Boita, and ascend over undulating, 
 hilly, partially wooded country to the 
 rounded ridge that forms the E. bound- 
 ary of a branch of Val di Zoldo, iu 
 which stands the village of 
 j Zopj^e (4,850'). Admirable views of 
 I the near mass of the Pelmo and of the 
 ! Antelao, here seen to the best advan- 
 tage, are gained in the course of this 
 pleasant walk. The traveller approach- 
 ing Zoppe from Pieve di Cadore shoidd 
 leave the high-road at Vodo, instead of 
 Borca, but it is there necessary to de- 
 scend about 400 ft, to reach the bridge 
 over the Boita. 
 
 The summit of the ridge is easily 
 reached in less than 2 hrs. from Borca, 
 and in rather less time from Vodo. 
 The parish-priest of Zoppe was an active 
 chamois-hunter, and is said to have dis- 
 covered one of the possible routes for the 
 ascent of the Pelmo. It is not, however, 
 necessary to take Zoppe on the way ; 
 and in follo"wing the path from Vodo, 
 which crosses the summit of the ridge 
 at a place called La Chiandolada 
 (5,237')> that village lies considerably 
 to the rt. of the direct course. This 
 follows the stream down the Zopp^ 
 branch of the valley, and in less than 
 2 hrs. from the summit reaches its 
 junction with the Mae, which is the 
 main torrent of Val di Zoldo. A few
 
 524 
 
 S, TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 61. CADORE DISTRICT. 
 
 minutPsi' walk above the junction, in the 
 main AV. branch of the valley, is 
 
 Fnrno di Zoldo ('2,8o4r'j, the chief 
 village, with comfortable quarters in 
 Cercena's inn. As the name indicates, 
 there are forges here, and the occupa- 
 tion of a large part of the population is 
 making nails, which are sent on mule- 
 back to the high-road at Longarone. 
 The scenery of both branches of Val di 
 Zoldo is extremely fine. The Pelmo 
 towers grandly over Zoppe, which lies 
 close to its base, while the Civetta is 
 the presiding genius of the main branch 
 above For no. 
 
 There is a way, shorter in distance, 
 though not in time, than that by Vodo, 
 from Pieve di Cadore to Forno di Zoldo. 
 Quitting the high-road at Valle, a ham« 
 let standing little more than a mile \V. 
 of Tai di Cadore, a track descends 
 about 400 ft. into the deep gorge of the 
 Eoita, where a bridge is thrown across 
 the stream at a height of 193 ft. above 
 its bed, and 2,824 ft. above the sea. 
 A rather steep ascent leads thence to 
 Cihiana (3,408'), and then the track 
 winds somewhat S. of W. through the 
 hills till it reaches the summit of the 
 dividing ridge (called Cima Copada ?), 
 5,101 ft. above the sea. In the descent 
 the most conspicuous object is the 
 Monte Pramper, dividing the valleys of 
 Zoldo and Agordo. 
 
 Of two passes leading from Porno to 
 the Cordevole the writer has little in- 
 formation. The easier of these is ap- 
 proached from Dont (3,126'), a village 
 where a lead-mine was formerly worked, 
 a short distance above Forno. It stands 
 by the junction with the Mae of a tor- 
 rent from a tributary glen called Val 
 Durayn. Along the N. side of this glen 
 a track mounts nearly due W. to San 
 Tiziajio di Goima (4,177'). At the 
 latter village the track turns SSW., de- 
 scends to cross the Duram torrent, and 
 then mounts to the Duram Pass (5,365'). 
 The descent to Agordo lies through the 
 Dugonthal. 
 
 The other pass, probably more inte- 
 resting to the mountaineer, lies between 
 the Monte Pramper and Cima Vescova, 
 
 1 and is known as Passo Pra/rqMr (7,558'). 
 ! The valley of the Cordevole is reached 
 ' about 1 m. below Agordo. From both 
 j these passes, but especially the latter, 
 I there should be very fine views of the 
 I great dolomite range of Primiero. 
 [ Below the junction of its two prin- 
 cipal branches Val di Zoldo is con- 
 ! tracted to a narrow gorge, and for a 
 distance of nearly 10 m. intervening 
 between Forno and Longarone there is 
 no space for a village or hamlet, and 
 none but a few scattered houses. At 
 Longarone the traveller reaches the 
 high-road through the valley of the 
 Piave (Rte. A). If he has followed the 
 direct course from San Vito, without 
 the very slight detour to Forno, he will 
 easily accomplish the entire distance 
 ' within 8 hre. 
 
 A longer, but, on the whole, a more 
 interesting way from San Vito to Val di 
 Zoldo passes round the N. side of the 
 Pelmo, by the pass called Forcella Fo- 
 rada (6,896'), over the ridge connecting 
 the Pelmo with the Rocchetta (7,793') 
 — a minor peak laid down on all maps, 
 while its much higher neighbours the 
 Punta di Formin and Becco di Mezzodi 
 are omitted. The Forcella Forada 
 offers a direct way from San Vito to 
 Caprile, a walk of about 5^ hrs. The 
 descent is through Val Fiorentina, by 
 the hamlet of Pescul (4,764'), where 
 1 there is a rough inn, not worse than 
 that of Selva, which must also be passed 
 on the way to Caprile. (See Rte. C.) 
 From Pescul, or from a point above 
 that place in descending from the For- 
 cella Forada, the traveller bound for 
 Val di Zoldo turns off southward over 
 the low ridge of Monte Grotto, which 
 divides tlie head of Val Fiorentina from 
 that of Zoldo. The first hamlet is 
 Pecol, with a rough but bearable inn. 
 The landlord's son is a good moun- 
 taineer, and would probably make a 
 serviceable guide. The next hamlet is 
 Maresson (4,485'), to which soon follows 
 San Nicolb, where the traveller finds with 
 surprise a clean and comfortable inn in 
 a spot very rarely visited by strangers. 
 It is an easy walk of If hr. hence to
 
 ROUTE G. — MONTE PELMO. 
 
 525 
 
 Fomo. The valley must be pc.pulous, 
 as numerous hamlets occur at short in- 
 tervals. 
 
 San Nicolo has many inducements 
 for the mountaineer, being very finely 
 situated, and within convenient distance 
 for the ascent of two of the great moun- 
 tains of this region— the Pelmo and the 
 Civetta. From this side the former 
 appears by far the more remarkable 
 mountain, and the ascent is most con- 
 veniently made from hence. 
 
 Monte Fdmo (10,377' ?i, from what- 
 ever side it be seen, but especially from 
 the E. and S., shows as a gigantic for- 
 tress of the most massive architecture, 
 not fretted into minarets and pinnacles, 
 like most of its rivals, but merely de- 
 fended by huge bastioned outworks, 
 whose walls in many places fall in sheer 
 precipices more than 2,000 ft. The 
 likeness to masonry is much increased 
 by the fact that, in great part, the 
 strata lie in nearly horizontal courses, 
 and hence it happens that many of the 
 steepest faces of the mountain are tra- 
 versed by ledges wide enough to give 
 passage to chamois and to their pursuers. 
 As chamois-hunting seems to be a fa- 
 vourite pastime in Val di Zoldo, the 
 hunters gradually become well ac- 
 quainted with the network of narrow 
 ledges that cover the greater part of 
 the mountain, and thus in time they 
 have found out not merely one, but four 
 different ways to reach the topmost 
 plateau. As the most practised moun- 
 taineer is not likely to hit upon any of 
 these without a guide, it suthces to say 
 that the two best routes are commenced 
 from the S. side of the mountain, either 
 from above San Nicolo, or from Zoppe. 
 The writer ascended from Borca by 
 the E. face of the mountain, with a 
 chamois-hunter who professed to have 
 discovered the course which they fol- 
 lowed. At a comparatively low level, 
 (less than 7,000 ft. ?) a ledge was gained 
 which had to be followed horizontally 
 along the face of the precipices that 
 show so boldly on the side facing the 
 Ampezzo road. Three deep recesses 
 were rounded in succession. In two 
 
 places the ledge had been broken away, 
 but it was found possible to clear the 
 gap thus created. The most eccentric 
 olistacle was encountered at a place 
 where the overhanging rock came down 
 so low as to leave a space of only about 
 18 inches; far too little to make it 
 possible to creep on hands and knees. 
 The guide, who had hitherto gone lijst, 
 declared that the breaking away of <i 
 projection of rock that overhung the 
 precipice on the 1. hand, had. made the 
 passage impossible. Unwilling to be 
 baulkea, the writer contrived to crawl 
 along the naiTow ledge in reptile fashion, 
 and was followed by his guide. Soon 
 after a place was reached from which 
 the ascent to the topmost plateau is 
 merely a long and steep, but not dirti- 
 cult, scramble. 
 
 In addition to the characteristic spe- 
 cies of the Dolomite Alps, Vcdiriana 
 repens, Campanula Morettiana, SluA An- 
 chosace Haiismanniana were gathered 
 on this side of the mountain. "What- 
 ever course the traveller may take, he 
 finds with surprise a not inconsiderable 
 glacier lying on the broken plateau 
 which is surrounded by the topmost 
 ridges of the mountain. On a small 
 rock-terrace above the upper end of the 
 glacier, the writer was told that they 
 had reached the top, and on his pointing 
 to the shattered ridge above, was as- 
 sured by the guide that this being all 
 ' croda morta ' — disaggregated rock 
 loosened by weathering — the further 
 ascent was entirely impracticable. It 
 required some time and some caution 
 to loosen with the Alpenstock consi- 
 derable masses of rock, still hanging 
 together, but detached by a slight 
 effort, before the real topmost ridge 
 was reached by the writer, without his 
 guide. No token of a stone-man was 
 seen, and it is not unlikely that the 
 barometer observation recorded by 
 Fuchs was made some way below the 
 trae summit. The height must be 
 about the same as that of the Civetta, 
 and can scarcely be 200 ft. below that 
 of the Antelao. Melchior and Luigi 
 Zugliani of Selva, near Caprile, are re*
 
 526 S. TYROL AKD VENETIAN ALPS. § 61. CADORE DISTRICT. 
 
 commended as guides for the Pelrao; 
 but. there must be several competent 
 men in Val di Zoldo. 
 
 None of the giants of this region pro- 
 duces a more imposing effect than does 
 the Mo7ite Ci"ctM (10,iW?) from the 
 neighbourhood of Caprile and Alleghe. 
 The grand wall of rock, massive in its 
 central and loftiest section, and flanked 
 by a serrated ridge with many pinnacles 
 and slender teeth, that descends towards 
 NE., is shown in the frontispiece of 
 Messrs. Gilbert and Churchill's book. 
 The first traveller to reach the summit 
 was Mr. F. F. Tuckett, with Melchior 
 and Jakob Anderegg. Serious and un- 
 avoidable risk from avalanches was in- 
 curred by making the asi^ent so early as 
 the Slat May, and in the descent the 
 party had a narrow escape from inevi- 
 table destruction. Apart from this risk, 
 which would not be incurred later in the 
 year, Mr. Tuckett does not seem to con- 
 sider the ascent as very difficult for a 
 moderately practised cragsman. The 
 view from the highest point, which is on 
 the brink of the great wall overlooking 
 Alleghe, is probably one of the most 
 remarkable in this remarkable region of 
 the Alps. The son of the innkeeper at 
 Pecol informed Mr. Tuckett that, with 
 one or two companions, he had twice 
 reached the summit of the Civetta ; and 
 as he satisfied that gentleman that he 
 had attained a point above all the main 
 difficulties of the ascent, there seems to 
 be no reason to doubt his assertion. 
 
 The easily accessible summit NE. 
 of the Civetta, and near to Pecol, is 
 called Coldai, and by its N. side is an 
 easy pass from Pecol to Alleghe and 
 Caprile, locally called Passo (T Alleghe 
 (6,103'), or quite as often Alleghe Cima. 
 By that way, Alleghe, where there is only 
 an 'osteria' of the poorest class, is easily 
 reached in 3 hrs. from Pecol. Between 
 the Coldai and the Civetta is a small 
 tarn ; and from the ridge close above it, 
 overlooking Alleghe and its blue lake, 
 a view is gained which is declared by 
 those who have reached that point to be 
 one of the very finest in this district. It 
 is within reach of all moderate walkers, 
 
 and the excursion involves no difficulty 
 of any kind. Still easier of access is a 
 point of view N. of the Passo d' Alleghe, 
 and attainable in 10 minutes from the 
 summit. In connection with the names 
 of several places in this neighbourhood, 
 it may be observed that English tra- 
 vellers get confused by forgetting that 
 in South Tyrol and Venetia, Col does 
 not mean a pass, but does mean a hill 
 or mountain. Thus the village in Val 
 Eiorentina above Caprile is called Col 
 ii Santa Lucia, because, as seen from 
 below, it appears to crown the summit 
 of the ridge on which it stands. 
 
 KOTJTE H. 
 
 INNICHEN TO SAN STEFANO BY THB 
 SEXTENTHAX. 
 
 In the foregoing Etes. it has been 
 seen that nearly ail the valleys of this 
 district are tributaries of the Piave. We 
 have now to notice one very fine valley, 
 a tributary of the Pusterthal, whose co- 
 pious torrent, after descending WNW. 
 to Innichen, joins the infant stream of 
 the Drave, and flows eastward towards 
 Carinthia, in a direction nearly exactly 
 opposite to its previous course. This 
 valley is the Sextenthal, noticed in § 51, 
 Ete. A. A road, practicable for light 
 country carriages, goes from Innichen 
 through the valley, and over the low 
 pass dividing it from the district of 
 Comelico at the upper end of the valley 
 of the Piave. The passes leading from 
 Sexten to Auronzo lie through scenery 
 of the grandest character, and one of 
 them at least is not difficult. 
 
 1. By the Kreuzberg, or Monte Croce 
 Pass. About 7 hrs. in a light carriage, 
 and fully 8 hrs. on foot. 
 
 The opening of the Sextenthal is not 
 seen from Innichen, being shut out by 
 the low hill on which stood the Eoman 
 city of Aguntum ; but the traveller fol- 
 lowing the road into the valley, which 
 passes round the W. base of the hill, 
 soon comes in sight of the noble mass of 
 rugged summits that bound it on the
 
 KOUTE H. — SEXTENTHAL. 
 
 527 
 
 SW. side. Foremost among: them is the 
 Dn^i Schuster spitz (10,368'), which rises 
 in the fork between the n)ain valley and 
 a western branch called Innerfeld, 
 by w-hich lies a choice between several 
 rough but not difficult passes leading to 
 Landro. Another fine pass called the 
 Innicher Rudel connects the head of 
 Innerfeld with that of the W. branch of 
 the Altlasteiner Thai. The most promi- 
 nent summit on the W. side of Inner- 
 feld is the Burkenkogel (9,520^). In a 
 wood on the rt. of the road, near the 
 opening of the valley, is the Innichner 
 Wildhad (4,330'). with a rustic establish- 
 ment frequented for the sake of three 
 mineral springs, one of which is chaly- 
 beate, the others saline. Farther on 
 the pedestrian may slightly shorten his 
 way by pleasant foot-paths. The lower 
 part of the valley is finely wooded ; but 
 as the road ascends the clearings are 
 wider; and on reaching (in \\ hr. from 
 Innichen) the chief village of 
 
 Sexten (4,374), locally known as St. 
 Veit, the valley stretches upward in an 
 open basin backed by a magnificent 
 group of dolomite peaks. There are 
 two or three inns at Sexten, one of 
 which, at least, affords very fair accom- 
 modation. Owing to frequent inter- 
 course with Italy, most of the people 
 here speak or understand Italian. Herr 
 Gander, the curate (co-operator) of 
 Sexten, is a botanist, well acquainted 
 with the flora of the district. Above 
 St. Veit is Moos or St. Josef, the second 
 hamlet of the valley, near to which, at 
 the opening of the Fischleinthal, is the 
 Sextnerbad (4,476'), a small establish- 
 ment for mineral baths, affording rough 
 ])ut tolerable accommodation amid 
 scenery far superior to that of Sexten. 
 The mineral springs are strongly im- 
 pregnated with earthy salts. 
 
 "The Fisehleinthal runs deep into the 
 mass of dolomite peaks that enclose the 
 valley of Auronzo on the N. side, and i 
 present forms that for variety and ! 
 strangeness of outline are not surpassed 
 elsewhere in this district. The topo- 
 graphy of this mass is yet ill under- 
 stood : all the published maps are in- I 
 
 ' correct, and there is much confusion as 
 to the names of the peaks, each having 
 i at least a German as well as Italian 
 \ designation. No mountaineer who visits 
 \ Sexten will fail to make some excursions 
 I into the upper branches of the Fischlein- 
 thal ; but it belongs to the native mem- 
 1 bers of the Austrian and Italian Alpine 
 i Clubs, rather than to strangers, to fix the 
 j nomenclature of the peaks of this Tyro- 
 ; lese valle}'. 
 
 I A rough road mounts very gently from 
 : Sexten through the main (SW.) branch 
 ; of the valley to the Kreuzhcrg (5,361'), 
 \ the scarcely perceptible ridge between 
 \ the waters of the Drave and those of 
 ' the Piave, now marking the frontier 
 , between Austria and Italy. The an- 
 ^ cient Mauthhaus, standing at the sum- 
 mit, had been converted into an inn, 
 , but since the separation of Venetia from 
 Austria may probably have reverted to 
 . its original destination as a customs- 
 : station. The pass is known in Comelico 
 j as Monte Croce; but it is desirable to 
 I suppress that name in order to avoid 
 I confusion with the better-known pass 
 I described in § 62, Rte. E. The road 
 descends thence into the northern branch 
 of the Comelico valley (Ete. D), which 
 is drained by the Pddola torrent. The 
 lower part is populous, but the upper 
 end has a deserted air, the pastures being 
 owned by the people of Sexten, and re- 
 served for horses and oxen, so that no 
 sennhutten enliven the scene. San 8te- 
 fano (Rte. D) is reached in about 5^ 
 hrs. by carriage from Sexten, or in 1 hr. 
 more on foot, excluding halts. There 
 is here a tolerable country inn kept by 
 Girardis. 
 
 Mr. Tuckett was the first traveller 
 who crossed the high range between 
 Sexten and Auronzo, and he has been 
 followed by several others ; but it is to 
 Mr. Holzmann that the vrriter is in- 
 debted for the fullest account of this 
 group of peaks, not surpassed else- 
 where for the grandeur and wildness of 
 their forms. The passes will be best 
 understood by supposing the traveller 
 to approach them from the side of 
 Auronzo. About 1 hr. abov& the ViUa
 
 528 S, TYROL AND VENETIAN ALPS. § 01. CADORE DISTRICT. 
 
 Grande (Rte. E) is the opening of Vol 
 Giralba. A path mounts for about 
 40 m. by the 1. bank, then crosses to 
 the rt. bank, and follows that for | hr. 
 till it begins to bear to the 1. or about 
 KW., and finally after a steep but not 
 difficult ascent, chiefly over fine debris, 
 or grava, reaches the summit of the 
 Forcella di Giralba, lying between the 
 Col Agnello and the Monte Popera. 
 The summit is formed of large slabs, 
 with ^rrrti'a on either side, and a small 
 tarn below. In descending it is neces- 
 sary to bear to the 1., between NW. and 
 WNW., first over grava, then among 
 blocks of dolomite. The way lies under 
 the precipitous W. face of the Hohe 
 Leisten, a great promontory from the 
 mass of Monte Popera. The Oher- 
 bacher Thai, which mounts nearly due 
 W., is passed on the 1. hand, and the 
 way lies nearly due N. through the 
 lower part of the same glen, locally 
 called Unterbacher Thai. The way is 
 first by the 1. bank, then by the oppo- 
 site side for about \ hr.. till at the 
 junction of the Altlasteiner Thai, de- 
 scending from the W., the traveller 
 enters the head of the Fischleinthal, 
 where a beaten track leads to the Sext- 
 nerbad. This way is the most direct 
 and easiest, requiring less than 6 hrs. 
 moderate walking, from Auronzo to 
 Sexten. The scenery is imsurpassed by 
 that of any other pass in this region. 
 
 The other passes next to be mentioned 
 are rarely used, and known only to the 
 smugglers who here carry on a perilous 
 trade between Tyrol and Italy. They 
 are approached through the Val Mar- 
 son, which opens into the main valley, 
 ■^ hr. above the junction of Val Giralba. 
 A path mounts along the 1. bank of the 
 stream about W^W., and after passing 
 two or three narrow glens on the rt. 
 hand, reaches in nearly 1 hr. the open- 
 ing of Val Cengia, through which a 
 considerable torrent descends from the 
 N. A faintly-marked track mounts 
 along the rt. bank, and after nearly 
 ^ hr. crosses to the 1, side, and before 
 long passes a deserted hut. Here the 
 ascent lies for a short distance NW., 
 
 along the "W. face of a projecting rock, 
 
 whose N. shoulder is climbed. Above 
 
 this the path crosses the torrent where 
 
 it falls in cascades through a ravine, 
 
 and mounts in zigzags nearly due N., till 
 
 it reaches an Alpine pasture. Thence 
 
 the way lies at first E. for 25 min., 
 
 passing a small tarn, and then N. for 
 
 15 min., till it attains another higher 
 
 shelf of pasture. Facing E. an ascent 
 
 of ^ hr. leads to the Oberbacher Jack, 
 
 \ between the Col Agnello and the craggy 
 
 ' mass, locally known as Oberbacher 
 
 , "Wand, that lies between the Oberbacher 
 
 '' Thai and Altlasteiner Thai mentioned 
 
 I above. Amidst rock scenery of the 
 
 \ grandest character the traveller descends 
 
 : eastward through the Oberbacher Thai 
 
 I till he meets the track from the Giralba 
 
 j Pass. Fully 7 j hrs., exclusive of h;ilts, 
 
 } should be allowed for this way from 
 
 I Auronzo to Sexten. 
 
 ! From the uppermost pastu^p Inst 
 ' mentioned an ascent of \ hr. to WNW. 
 leads to the Santebu-chl. a pass lying 
 between ihePatern Kogel -dm] the Ober- 
 bacher Wand. Descending thence to a 
 small bright blue tarn, and then bearing 
 nearly due N., the traveller may reach 
 the head of the Altlasteiner Thai, which 
 runs about ENE. into the head of the 
 Fischleinthal, 
 
 The native hunters speak of a fourth 
 pass between Auronzo and Sexten called 
 Ldm77i£rbicchl, which seems to lie be- 
 tween the pinnacles of the Col Agnello, 
 but Mr, Holzmann failed in repeated 
 attempts to find it, and no other traveller 
 has been more fortunate. 
 
 From the head of the Altlasteiner 
 Thai a very fine pass to Landro may be 
 made by the N, side of the Patem 
 Kogel, passing two small tarns near the 
 summit of the pass, which is called at 
 Sexten Toblacher Riedel, whence, keeping 
 to the 1, at the upper part, it is easy to 
 descend into the eastern branch of the 
 Rienz valley that descends to Landro. 
 A still finer course is to bear S,W, from 
 a little way below the pass to another 
 pass, Brei Zivnen Joch (M, H,), close to 
 the wonderful peaks of the Drei Zinnen. 
 This leads into the head of Val Rim-
 
 ROUTE I, — VALLEY OF PRAGS. 
 
 529 
 
 bianco, the S. branch of the Kienz 
 Valley. This \ray takes fully 8 hrs. 
 from Sextcn to Landro, or 1 hr. more 
 than the more direct course. 
 
 The Drei Zi7inc7i, or Cima di Lavarcdo, 
 is one of the most singular of the 
 dolomite peaks, the highest tower 
 actually overhanging its base. It is 
 counted by Siorpaes as the most 
 difficult of ascent of all the peaks of 
 this district. The height must be con- 
 siderably greater than that commonly 
 quoted — 9,833 ft. On the other hand, the 
 height of the passes al3ove enumerated 
 has apparently been exaggerated. There 
 is no -wide difference between them, and 
 none of them much exceeds 8,000 ft. 
 
 From the blue tarn on the NW. side 
 of the Santebiichl, bearing about due 
 W., it is easy to join the path over the 
 Toblacher Eiedel near the summit, and 
 in that way a \e.vy fine route may be 
 taken from Auronzo to Landro. Perhaps 
 a Btill finer way is to quic the path to 
 the Oberbacher Joch at the lower shelf 
 of Alpine piisture mentioned above, and 
 to ascend thence in a WNW. direction 
 to the Foreella di Lavaredo, a pass 
 between the Drei Zinnen and the Patern 
 Kogel, whence the path from the 
 Toblacher Eiedel is joined near the head 
 of the Eienz Valley. 
 
 [The ValRimbianco mentioned above 
 is connected by low and easy passes with 
 the head of Val Popena, and the lake 
 of Misurina, see Rte. B.] 
 
 EOUTE I. 
 
 WELSBERG TO COBTINA d' A.1IPEZZ0, BY 
 
 PRAGS. 
 
 The mass of mountains lying in the 
 rt. angle formed by the high-road to 
 Cortina, between the Toblacherfeld and 
 Peutelstein, are in great part drained 
 by a torrent that joins the Eienz about 
 half-way between Welsberg and Nie- 
 derndorf (§31, Ete. A). Those ap- 
 proaching the valley from the eastw^ard 
 will take a vehicle from the latter place, 
 but travellers coming from the N. and 
 W. -will make Welsberg their starting- 
 point. The valley iu question is col- 
 
 s. T. M 
 
 lectively called Prfl'^s( sometimes written 
 Brags), but includes two diverging 
 branches that join at Saag, about Ij m. 
 above its opening into the Pusterthal. 
 The S. branch of the valley, which is 
 the shorter, is called Inner Frags, while 
 the SW, branch, called Ausser Frags, 
 extends more deeply into the mountain 
 range that encloses the head of Enne- 
 berg. In Inner Prags, little more than 
 a mile above Saag, stands the mountain 
 bath-house of Alt-Frags (4,624'). The 
 name is appropriate, as a part of the 
 building is very ancient. A modern 
 woodpn hoiise has been added. The ac- 
 commodation is rude but tolerable, and 
 the charges very cheap. It may bo 
 reached in a light carriage from the 
 main valley of the Eienz. From the 
 head of Inner Prags a path leads 
 southward to the Ampezzo road, which 
 is reached not far from Schluderbach, 
 over a pass between the Croda Eossa 
 and the Diirrenstein. If the former 
 peak — 10,262 ft. in height — can be as- 
 cended, the attempt may be best made 
 from the side of Inner Prags. 
 
 Ausser Prags, the SW. branch of the 
 valley, extends for some way above Saag 
 nearly at a level. It includes two small 
 villages — Schmieden and St. Veit. Near 
 the former place are the baths of Neu- 
 Frags (4,313'), intended apparently for 
 guests of the humbler class. 
 
 At the upper end of Ausser Prags is 
 a picturesque little lake called Wildsee 
 (5,563'). Here an uppermost branch of 
 the valley, locally called Innerste Alp, 
 leads to a pass connecting this with the 
 Enneberg. St. Vigil (§ 60, Ete. G) is 
 said to be 5 lire, distant. Another path 
 leads southward to Cortina by the E. side 
 of the Seekofel (9,214')— a mountain 
 whose outline, as seen from the S. side, 
 resembles that of an elephant. The 
 summit of the pass to Cortina is called 
 Welscher Boden (6,499'). 
 
 A traveller may well approach Cor- 
 tina from the side of Bruneck by this 
 route, but not unless he be already ac- 
 quainted with the more striking scenery 
 of the ordinary route by the Dlirren See, 
 and the road thence to Peutelstein.
 
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