.M THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES ^ SIXTY YEARS' LIFE AND ADVENTURE IN THE FAR EAST 'Jkt^natu. Sixty Years: Life and Adventure in the Far East - - BY JOHN DILL ROSS With 25 Illustrations inaluding 3 Photogravure Plates and a Map VOLUME I. LONDON: HUTCHINSON & CO. PATERNOSTER ROW, E.C. 1911 1>S TO MY WIFE 14577S4 PREFACE It was my fate to remain perforce in Odessa during a perilous and miserable period, when the Port was a sea of flame and the scene of massacre and terror. Later, strikes on the rail- ways, in the post and telegraph services, and among the sailors and engineers of the steamship companies, accompanied by continued disorders, paralysed the trade of Southern Russia, I had practically nothing to do and found my enforced idleness weigh heavily on me. During this crisis my thoughts constantly reverted to my long and singularly adventurous career in the lands and seas of the Far East. I remembered those of my family who had preceded me in distant regions, and I finally set to work to write the story of men and things now vanished, and of a society of which no description yet exists. I beheve that I must be one of the few men now living who possess the material necessary to construct such a record as will be found in these volumes. John Dill Ross. Odessa, March 16/29^^, 1911. IX CONTENTS Introduction — The British in Borneo. Arrival of James Brooke in Borneo — Espouses Muda Hassim's cause — Becomes Rajah of Sarawak — Massacre at Brunei — Borneo pirates — Rajah Brooke knighted by Queen Victoria — His struggles and persecutions — His beneficial rule of Sarawak . . 1-15 Chapter I. — Captain Northwood. Captain Northwood's early career — Sails for Melbourne with his wife and child — Voyage to Singapore. Becomes the pioneer of British commerce with Borneo — The Royal pirate — Desperate combat with pirates ....... 16-33 Chapter II. — Labuan in the Olden Days. Success of the Don Pedro — Sir John Pope-Hennessy at Labuan — Northwood and the coal trade — His diplomatic feat . 34-46 Chapter III. — Singapore in the Olden Days. A miraculous voyage — Johnnie Northwood's birth and early life — The ambitious Parsee — Mutiny on board the Samson — Young Northwood sails for England ..... 47-59 Chapter IV. — Captain Northwood makes a Voyage to Saigon. Captain Northwood deceived by Captain Blewitt — The Blewitt system — Sale of the Don Pedro ..... 60-64 Chapter V. — Northwood, junior, becomes " Something in the City." Johnnie Northwood's education — His start in hfe — His adventures at a tea-broker's — Goes into the counting-house — His happy home- life — Return of Captain Northwood — Johnnie and his father 65-73 xi CONTENTS Chapter VI. — Singapore in Bayswater. The Northwoods take rooms in Bayswater — Seeing the sights — Young Northwood enters the firm of Brownlow and Co. — The fare- well dinner-party — Johnnie's impressions . . . 74-88 Chapter VII. — En route for Singapore. Sight-seeing in France — Johnnie Northwood makes a new friend on the voyage to Aden — His serious illness — The arrival at Singapore 89-93 Chapter VIII. — The Commencement of a Career, Convalescence at Greenbanks — 'John Grinston and the North- woods — The Attorney-General and the red ants — 'On board the Alastor — Young Northwood's ambitions — His first day with Brownlow and Co. — His physical education . . . 94-1 11 Chapter IX. — A " Faux-pas " and its Consequences. Northwood's differences with the Eurasian clerks — His flirtation at the wedding-party — His hasty proposal to a Eurasian girl and its consequences — His failure as a salesman — His dismissal — Em- ployed by Mr. Finlay in the chartering department . . 112-132 Chapter X. — Woodleigh. Sir Henry and Lady Neville leave for England — The Northwoods settle at Woodleigh — Society at Woodleigh — Hunting monkeys 133-145 Chapter XL — Ayer Manis, Captain Northwood buys a new estate — Entertaining at Ayer Manis — Its romantic surroundings .... 146-150 Chapter XII. — Johnny Northwood starts Business on His Own Account. Northwood's dismal prospects at Brownlow's — His first cheque- book — Captain Shelby's proposal — Northwood starts in business for himself — Captain Hardy's warning — The Northwoods' increased trade — Northwood goes to France and England — His return home 151-167 xii CONTENTS Chapter XIII. — About Politics in Borneo. The Sultan of Brunei — Baron Overbeck's schemes — Northwood's unfortunate poUtical letter — The Chartered Company of British North Borneo ........ 168-175 Chapter XIV. — Johnnie Northwood's First Expedition. Washington Clarke's defection — Captain Northwood's new plan of campaign — Northwood goes to Labuan — The Northwoods' rivals — Northwood and Government officials sail for Kudat — Hospitality on the Alastor — On short commons — Arrival at Ternate — Northwood discusses business with Ternate agent, Van Papen- drecht — -Sale of the Fairy Queen — Captain Hardy's auction sale — • Feminine society — The averted Shelby scandal — Captain Shelby's greed — -The deserters — The Papuans — Hunting birds — The King of Waigiou — A terrible storm — Captain Bird's wonderful navigation — Northwood attacked with fever — Ternate in eruption — Coralie Van SwoU's terrible death — Home at Singapore . . 176-275 Chapter XV. — The Firm of Northwood and Son. Northwood's recovery from fever — Captain Bird resigns — Cap- tain Northwood enters into partnership with his son . 276-278 Chapter XVI. — A little " Corner " in Sago-Flour. Lewis Wallis's scheme — 'Its success — •Handsome profits 279-284 Chapter XVII. — The Dewakan Reef. Captain Fletcher takes command of the yi /as^or— Disastrous effects of the earthquake — The new steamer — Captain Hardy's defeat — 'Affairs at Amboina — The possibiUties of whaUng — Northwood and Shelby in partnership — -The Dutch family — On the Dewakan reef — Hope deferred — Trouble with the natives — 'Safe at Singa- pore .......... 285-309 Chapter XVIII. — A Tug of War. Captain Northwood's approval — Captain Fletcher resigns — Captain Lewis offered command of the A lastor — -New rivals — Captain Hardy's death — Downfall of Fletcher and Bird . . 310-323 Chapter XIX. — -Of the News which awaited John Dillon Northwood on his Arrival at Singapore. A disastrous fire — A financial failure — The stabihty of North- wood and Son — The corner in sago-flour . . . 324-337 xiu CONTENTS Chapter XX. — Society Doings. Mrs. North wood entertains — Feminine spite — Governor of Labuan stays with the Northwoods — Mrs. Valberg's dinner-party — Fancy dress ball at Singapore ..... 328-339 Chapter XXI. — The Turn of the Tide. Burning of the Ceylon and her cargo — -Loss of the A Imaheira — More financial troubles ....... 340-350 Chapter XXII. — The Crisis. The Moluccas trade — Last dinner-party at Woodleigh — An unpleasant note — Scarcity of money — The Armenian's treachery ........ 351-364 XIV ILLUSTRATIONS John Dill Ross (photogravure) . . . Frontispiece Singapore in 1865 ..... Facing page 22 River and Town of Singapore in 1865 . ,, ,, 48 The Captain (photogravure) . . . . „ ,, 72 Views of Sulu ......,,,, 160 Brunei .......,,,, 168 The Chartered Company's Mounted Police ,, ,, 174 A View of Labuan . . . . . ,, ,, 180 A North Borneo Tobacco Plantation . ,, ,, 186 A Typical Scene in Borneo . . • „ „ 192 MAP Malay, or East Indian Archipelago with Burma and Siam .... XVI XV *1alay, or HAN Archipelago r^^/^RMA & SIAM NORTH ' P A C I F I C OCEAN CHINA J§1 . Malay, or m^U East Indi/\n Archipelago ■^ Si with BURMA & SIAM NORTH ft'^;^^ ^ P A C I F I C d 'sulij. ^ <^^^ I OCEAN Sixty Years' Life and Adventure In the Far East INTRODUCTION THE BRITISH IN BORNEO THE romance of British history in Borneo commences with the arrival of James Brooke, on board of his armed yacht the Royalist, in the Sarawak River, in the month of August, 1839. The country at that time was in a terribly disturbed and anarchical condition. The Sultan of Brunei had en- trusted the government of Sarawak to Pangeran Makota, a tj^e of native chief only too common then as now. The cruelties and exactions of this man ended by driving the people of Sarawak into open revolt. The rebellion was secretly nursed by the Sultan of Sambas from across the border, and also by the Dutch, who had the Sultan under their thumb. Had it not been for the arrival of James Brooke at this critical moment we should not now possess a single square foot of territory in Borneo. The whole of this magnificent island would have been under the Dutch flag. Omar Ali, Sultan of Brunei, sent his uncle, the Rajah Muda Hassim, to crush the insurrection. The Rajah was altogether of a different type from the hideous Pangeran Makota, but he possessed neither the deter- mination of the latter nor his ability to deal with a position VOL. I. I Sixty Years' Life and Adventure in the Far East of extreme danger and difficulty, and his affairs were in a very bad way when the Royalist anchored off his palace. The Rajah was an essentially humane man, and, at any rate, he had sufficient intelligence to recognize that in James Brooke he had found the one man living who could save him and his country. Rarely indeed have gifts of the highest and noblest order been so concentrated in any one man as in the person of James Brooke. From the day that Brooke espoused the cause of Muda Hassim his troubles commenced — ^troubles which flew upon him thick and fast, and never ceased until the day of his death in a remote Devonshire village. Brooke's first task was to subdue the rebellion, and none but those who have had to deal with native chiefs and their followers can conceive what a heart-breaking business it was. He had to consider Malays, Dyaks, Arabs, and a strong Chinese element, together with their diverse methods of thought and action. All the chiefs whom he commanded were lazy and inconsequent, while many of them were cowardly and treacherous. Brooke endeavoured to capture the enemy's principal position at Balidah, but although the guns landed from the Royalist were splendidly served by his crew and prac- tically wrecked the fort, nothing could induce Muda Hassim's forces to attack a place already tottering to its fall. Brooke was so disgusted with the cowardice of the Rajah's people, that he threatened to leave Sarawak altogether and abandon the country to its fate. The Rajah persuaded him to remain, and for the first time suggested that James Brooke should take over the govern- ment of the country. This offer was dechned, but Brooke consented once more to lead the Rajah's forces, and assault Balidah. Let us imagine a sultry, steaming day, a muddy river winding its course through a dense Bornean forest, \vith clearings here and there, in which were erected the forts 2 The British in Borneo and stockades of the contending forces. Brooke's men from the Royalist had dragged their six-pounders over a difficult country, so as to command the enemy's main position at BaUdah. Once more the roar of the British guns was heard, as they cut up the rebel works with great effect. Meanwhile numerous bodies of Muda Hassim's troops were silently creeping through the jungle paths, all con- verging on Balidah. They had reached the very verge of the forest unsuspected by the garrison, and a short rush across the open was all that was necessar}- to secure the victory and deal the enemy a shattering blow. At this precise moment one of the Rajah's chiefs started shouting his prayers at the top of his voice — a treacherous trick, which succeeded in its intention of warning the enemy. The rebels opened a spattering lire, which killed one solitary man of the attacking force. The latter thereupon made a general bolt for the depths of the jungle, and all was over. Brooke was furious, but the whole affair was t^'pical of fighting in Borneo. The rebels were encouraged by the failure of the operations against their stronghold to take the offensive. They assaulted the Rajah's positions at Sekundis, and were carrying everything before them, when Brooke appeared upon the scene with a force consisting of twelve English- men and two natives, and not only stopped their victorious advance, but converted it into a rout. The panic-stricken rebels fled in all directions, abandoning their weapons as they ran. The Rajah's army exhibited the greatest keenness in pursuing the beaten enemy and, hunting down the flying insurgents into the river, slaughtered them remorselessly. Shortly afterwards Balidah surrendered without another shot being fired against it, and from that moment the civil war was practically at an end. In September, 1841, Rajah Muda Hassim again pro- posed to Brooke that he should become the Rajah ol VOL. I. . 3 I* Sixty Years' Life and Adventure in the Far East Sarawak. This time Brooke accepted the offer in the interests of the country. In due course the Sultan confirmed the arrangement made between Muda Hassim and James Brooke, who thus became Rajah Brooke of Sarawak. The princes of Borneo, as will be seen in subsequent pages, have more than once offered the government of vast territories to other Europeans who enjoyed their confidence. Even such a humble personage as the man who is now writing this book has had his chance of becoming a reigning rajah. Many years ago the Sultan of Brunei proposed to him that he should become the Rajah of Palawan. This brilliant offer was coupled with certain conditions of a mercantile and somewhat sordid order. It is not given to every Briton, however, to wear the mantle of the first Rajah Brooke. There seemed to be various acute and imminent dangers connected with the sovereignty of Palawan, such as the slitting of a certain throat, or some equally painful end to a brief and troubled existence, however elevated, which caused the Sultan's proposal to be rejected with considerable enthusiasm. As soon as Rajah Brooke had taken over the govern- ment of Sarawak, Rajah Muda Hassim sailed for Brunei, with an endless retinue of wives, officials, retainers, and hangers-on of every kind. The Rajah was received with great honours at the Court, and appointed Prime Minister to the Sultan Omar Ali. At about this period, the Sultan offered to cede the Island of Labuan to Great Britain, and the beautiful harbour and valuable coal-mines of this new possession induced our Government to close with the offer. Rajah Muda Hassim's authority and influence at the Court of Brunei increased until the envy of his enemies was excited. They had small difficulty in persuading the weak and cruel Sultan that the Rajah was plotting his deposition. In 1846 the tyrant ordered the destruction of Muda Hassim and his entire family. Late one night, 4 The British in Borneo after a magnificent banquet offered by the Sultan to the Rajah and his relatives, the latter were allowed to retire to their homes. A few minutes later the Sultan gave the signal for the massacre to commence, and it was im- mediately carried out with the most horrid ferocity. The houses of the Rajah and his dependents were fired, and as the doomed people rushed out to save themselves from the flames, they were butchered, man, woman, and child. The unhappy Muda Hassim shot himself rather than fall into the hands of the assassins. The gallant Pangeran Budruddin, the Rajah's brother, after being desperately wounded, fired a barrel of gunpowder, and blew himself to pieces, together with two of his women who asked to share his death. Several other Brunei nobles of the royal blood were murdered during that night of horror. The dawn of day revealed the sickening sight of a bloody shambles amidst smoking ruins. The Rajah Muda Hassim, his wives and children, relatives, friends and dependents were all destroyed to the very last soul. In 1843 Captain Keppel arrived at Kuching in H.M.S. Dido, the first British man-of-war to visit Sarawak, an event which opened up a new era for Rajah Brooke and his country. Keppel was anxious to assist Brooke in suppressing the pirates who laid waste the coasts and rivers of Borneo and were the curse and scourge of the whole country. This was a very difficult and dangerous adventure. The powerful Arab slave-dealers were wealthy and well organized. The Sekarang Dyaks are a fighting race. But under such leaders as Keppel and Brooke all obstacles were overcome. Their British sailors found it to be terribly toilsome to drag their heavy boats, under a burning sun, up rivers obstructed by rafts and trunks of trees, while the jungle simply swarmed with their savage foes ; but nothing could daunt the cheery courage of these fine fellows, who inspired their native allies with unbounded confidence. Sixty Years' Life and Adventure in the Far East The expedition led by Keppel and Brooke made short work of the fortifications up the Batang Lupar river. The forts were rushed and captured after severe fighting. The pirates suffered heavily in killed and wounded. They lost no less than sixty-five brass guns, besides a number of iron cannons found in and about the forts. The head- quarters of five thousand pirates were burned to the ground. It was a severe blow to a formidable enemy. Proceeding up the Batang Lupar, the expedition was beset by all sorts of difficulties and dangers. Heavy rains added to the depressing surroundings of the attacking force, and then came another battle. The aspects of fighting Borneo pirates in their own rivers are best described by Keppel himself. " It is difficult to describe the scene as I found it," he says. " About twenty boats were jammed together, forming one confused mass, some bottom up, the bows and sterns of others only visible, mixed up pell-meU with huge rafts — and amongst which were nearly all our ad- vanced division. Headless trunks, as well as heads without bodies, were lying about ; parties hand-to-hand spearing and stabbing one another, others striving to swim for their lives ; and entangled in the common melee were our ad- vanced boats, while on both banks thousands of Dyaks were rushing down to join in the slaughter, hurling stones and spears on the boats below." Truly a stirring picture ! The operations of Keppel and Brooke in the Batang Lupar region were brought to a successful conclusion. The once powerful and ruffianly Arab slave-traders were either killed or fled across the border, broken men, without a single follower. The blow dealt to a very powerful confederation of the worst pirates in Borneo was terrible, and their extermination was of untold benefit to the people and the country at large. The ravages of the pirates were ruining Borneo, while their wanton cruelty is beyond description. 6 The British in Borneo Take, for instance, the case of Captain James Ross, the owner of the British barque Regina, captured by Borneo pirates. The unhappy man was suspected of having a large sum in dollars on board. This was not the case, however, as he had invested his money in rattans, rubber, and other produce of no particular use to the pirates. In order to make Captain Ross confess where his non- existent treasure was hidden, the pirates commenced by lashing his son, a bright young lad, to one of the ship's anchors, which was then flung overboard. This being of no effect, they tortured James Ross for hours. They cut his fingers off, joint by joint, at long intervals, and inflicted other mutilations on him. He was finally left a bleeding but breathing mass on his quarter-deck, when the pirates, after killing his officers and taking the native crew for slaves, set the ship on fire and left it. Many a trading ship met with a similar fate, but the chief devastation wrought by the pirates was amongst the natives themselves. They not only ravaged the coasts, but penetrated far into the interior by means of the Borneo rivers. The natives were never safe. At any moment they might be attacked, and then the old story would be re-enacted of boats seized or destroyed, of vil- lages burned to the ground, of crops laid waste, and of women carried off by their savage captors. The cruelty of these people was incredible. To them the prolonged torturing of a helpless man or woman was an amusement of the most enjoyable order, and any expedient which could add to the agony of the victim was eagerly applauded. When Rajah Brooke became the ruler of Sarawak, it was inhabited by races of an apparently hopeless type. The leading men of the country, generally, were head- hunters, slave-traders and robbers. Sometimes they would fight very well, at other times they would bolt in abject fear from an inferior enemy. Their women were their slaves, and together with the captives taken in various 7 Sixty Years* Life and Adventure in the Far East forays did such work as could be done. The type being cruel, vicious and lazy to an incredible degree, it might be asked what could be done for such people. But Keppel and Brooke saw below the surface. Brooke had early arrived at a correct estimate of the real character of the native, while Keppel formed a high idea of the future of both the country and its people under good government. The amazing part of the whole history is that two men, the two white Rajahs of Sarawak, Sir James Brooke and Sir Charles Brooke, have in something like sixty years made a peaceful and highly progressive country out of these infernal regions. They seem to have eradicated the horrid vices of their subjects, and transformed them into a peaceable and pleasant population. There are few countries in which travel is to-day so safe as in Sarawak, and it is rare to meet with any white man who has had any experience of the people who does not speak appre- ciatively of their kindness and hospitality. From about 1844 the star of Rajah Brooke was in the ascendant, and everything prospered under his rule. In 1847 he visited England, where he was graciously received by Her Majesty the Queen at Windsor Castle, and was the recipient of many honours. By the time he returned in 1848 he was Sir James Brooke, K.C.B., Rajah of Sarawak and Governor of Labuan. The Rajah returned to Sarawak on board H.M.S. Mceander, under the command of his old friend Captain Keppel, and met with a magnificent reception from his subjects. The establishment of Labuan was attended by serious difficulties and calamities, chiefly due to the inexperience of certain officials from Singapore, who built the settle- ment on a grassy plain, which became a swamp in wet weather. Sir Spenser St. John describes the circum- stances of the colony in 1848 : " While the rain fell in torrents, the sea washed under 8 The British in Borneo the houses, luckily built on piles ; but the stores of the unhappy people were ruined, and, to crown all, the deadly Labuan fever made its appearance and claimed its victims. The marines and bluejackets were the first to suffer from this fever, which carried off several of them. The next to succumb were the Chinese and Indian servants. Sir James Brooke and nearly the whole of his staff, including the Colonial surgeon, fell ill of the fever, a most dangerous and depressing disease. A regular panic set in, and every- body who could possibly get away from the island left Labuan. At this juncture there were probably more inhabitants in the dismal cemetery of Labuan than in the settlement itself." Labuan suffered greatly from its unenviable reputation as a fever-haunted and deadly island. The Seribas Dyaks now became a source of great trouble and danger. They laid waste Sadong and other districts, and committed atrocities of every kind. To put down this. Rajah Brooke left, in July, 1849, for the Rejang River, at the head of a force of some three thousand men, supported by Her Majesty's ship Nemesis, and boats from the Albatross and Royalist. The Rajah surprised the pirate fleet of ninety-eight vessels at the mouth of the river, and brought them to action. The battle was so decisive that not more than twelve vessels out of the entire pirate fleet were able to make their escape up the river. Sir Spenser St. John gives the dimen- sions of one of the pirate ships : Length, eighty feet ; breadth, nine feet ; and seventy oars. He adds the following details of discoveries made after the battle : " The pirates murdered aU their girl captives, and after shocking mutilations, cut off their heads and escaped. Proofs of the piracies committed by the Seribas fleet were found on every side. The pirates had captured two vessels trading to Singapore, and had devastated numerous vil- lages on shore. Baskets full of the heads of their unhappy victims were found in every village." 9 Sixty Years' Life and Adventure in the Far East The results of the Rajah's remarkable expedition were hailed with delight by the native chiefs and their people, as it relieved them from the oppression of an abominable terror, and promised them something like safety for life and property. Rajah Brooke, having defeated in turn the Sekarang and Seribas pirates, ought at last to have been left in peace to develop his principality. But there was a storm brewing in England — of all places in the world — which was now to burst upon him in all its fury, and which menaced him with ruin and dishonour. The Rajah had selected for his agent in London a cer- tain Mr. Wise, who has been described as " a man of con- siderable ability, but no honour." Anxious to make a fortune for himself. Wise projected a kind of East Asiatic Archipelago Company, based on huge territorial con- cessions to be granted to this company by the Rajah. His Highness, however, decided to have nothing to do with Wise's great scheme, as he saw very clearly into the facts concerning it. The scheme was all right for Wise, but it would not be a good thing for the British investor, or for the native of the country. Sarawak was not yet prepared for operations on a great scale, even if they had been honestly conceived. The Brooke policy, which is actively in force to this day, has invariably been to protect the people, not only from the pirates of the coast, but also from the speculator who comes from afar. Let any man go to-day to Sarawak, with sufficient capital to open up some useful industry, and he will find that the Government will treat him well, and render him every assistance. But the company- promoting humbug, or the sort of person who acquires valuable property from the natives in exchange for cheap and showy articles, will find himself under due pressure, promptly applied, squeezed out of Sarawak. Wise, vindictive and astute, determined to destroy the Rajah and his government, an object he very nearly 10 The British in Borneo achieved by transforming the commercial question into a purely political movement, based on the strongly humani- tarian sentiments so popular with a section of the British public. Wise soon found a London newspaper willing to serve his ends, and succeeded in enlisting the sympathies of such prominent men as Hume, Cobden and Gladstone in his campaign against the Rajah of Sarawak. He now openly denounced his former master as "a murderer and a robber." Cobden declared that Sir James Brooke, having seized on a territory as large as York- shire, drove the natives out of it, and subsequently sent for British forces to massacre them. The " methods of barbarity " card was played for all it was worth. Sir James Brooke was held up to public execration as a rapacious and bloodthirsty monster, while his victim, the harmless, necessary pirate of Sekarang or Seribas, became the object of intense public sympathy. Rajah Brooke was overwhelmed by the skilfullj'-engi- neered storm of obloquy which broke upon him. The vigour and ability with which he defended his civilizing policy was of no avail. The agitation against him was so great, that in order to secure the support of the Free Trade Party, Lord Aberdeen consented to issue a Commission on the lines proposed by the enemies of the Rajah, who was there and then dismissed from Her Majesty's service, an un- merited disgrace, which was keenly felt. Sir James Brooke had ultimately to undergo the humilia- tion of appearing before a Commission at Singapore, which, however, was quite unable to find any fault with his pro- ceedings and acquitted him. The treatment of the Rajah led to the most disastrous results. It naturally weakened his authority, and broke down the pride and the health of the man. Keppel writes of him : " I found the great and good Rajah still under the persecution of his former agent, Mr. Wise. Sir James was a wreck of his former self." In 1857 y^t another disaster befell the Rajah, which II Sixty Years' Life and Adventure in the Far East was nothing less than the Chinese rebelhon led by the Gold Kongsi of Ban. It resulted in the capture and destruction of the capital of Sarawak. The Chinese miners from Bau pulled dowTi the river in barges and made their wholly unexpected attack in Kuching at midnight. A large body made for Government House, with the intention of killing the Rajah ; but his Highness had been roused by their shouts and cut his way through their midst, sword in hand, and swam across the river for assistance. In a short time Government House and various other large buildings went up in flames. The Chief of the Gold Kongsi assumed the administration of the city next day. Meanwhile, Chinese were killing and plundering in all directions, and had set the Malay town on fire. Rajah Brooke now appeared upon the scene with some hastily recruited levies, and sharp fighting ensued, with doubtful results, for the Chinese rebels having seized the arsenal were much better armed than the royalists. A very critical situation was ended by the sudden arrival of the Borneo Compan3''s steamer. Sir James Brooke, which at once opened fire on the rebels. The English guns were too much for the Chinese, who were seized by a panic and fled in all directions, closely pursued by the vengeful Malays and, Dj'aks. Tracked through the jungles, beaten at every staild they made, the wretched insurgents were all killed with the exception of those who managed to escape over the Sambas frontier. But Kuching was left a heap of smoulder- ing ruins, and the Rajah had to make his temporary head- quarters on board the Borneo Company's steamer. Kuching rapidly rose from its ruins, and the kingdom of Sarawak made steady progress. But the unfortunate Rajah was worn out by an unparalleled series of struggles and persecutions. He finally went home, where he found himself ""-poor and pressed for money. A fund for his benefit was privately raised by a few friends, which enabled him to buy a small property at Burrator, near Dartmoor, where he died on the nth of June, 1868. 12 The British in Borneo Such was the end of the strange and gifted man who was bom at Benares on the 29th of April, 1803. A more remarkable and useful career has seldom been lived. His whole life-story is one more illustration of how hard a thing it is to serve the interests of Great Britain from purely unselfish motives without being destroyed in the process. British public opinion is a very strange monster indeed. It will rend a man to pieces and then become inordinately proud of him. Is there not a statue to Sir Bartle Frere ? The fate of that magnificent man, Sir Stamford Raffles, was even more tragic than that of Sir James Brooke. Raffles, the man who gave us such priceless possessions as Java and the Spice Islands, and who was the founder of the splendid colony of Singapore, died in England at the age of forty-five in such obscurity that not a soul knows to-day where his body is buried. But Raffles has his statue also on the Singapore Esplanade, albeit it happens to be a particularly bad one, consisting largely of some- what scantily-attired legs — as if these were the chief things about a man of genius to be perpetuated in bronze ! Should there not be a statue of Sir James Brooke at Kuching, and a really good one ? The mere private person, toiling for others and doing his utmost for his masters, may also have his life embittered and cut short by the stabs of envy, malice and hatred. For him there wiU be no statue, good or bad. If he finaUy attains to the dignit}^ of a cheap coffin, he wiU end better than others equally disinterested and zealous. Sir James Brooke was fortunate in enjoying to the very last the devoted friendship of such men as Admiral Sir Henry Keppel and Sir Spenser St. John. It seems, also, to have been a fortunate circumstance for the Rajah and his country that the Borneo Company, Limited, was founded. It is not suitable to discuss the affairs of the Borneo Company in these pages, but it may be truly said that during an honourable existence of more than 13 Sixty Years' Life and Adventure in the Far East fifty years this company has rendered very great services in developing the agricultural, trading and mining re- sources of the country. The Borneo Company has also provided Sarawak with a regular and excellent steamship service, of which the value can hardly be over-estimated. But the crowning mercy of Sir James Brooke's closing days was that he had found in his own nephew a worthy successor to the throne of Sarawak. Under the sway of the present Rajah, Sir Charles Brooke, the borders of the country have been widely extended. Progress and prosperity have gone hand in hand under a wise and just Government. Both the white Rajahs of Sarawak have displaj^ed the great quality of knowing how- to choose their men. The officials of the Sarawak Govern- ment carry out their difficult duties admirably, and are always in touch and sympathy with the people whom they assist in governing. The remarkable success of Sarawak is doubtless due to the fact that it has been administered, according to their own ideas, by two rulers of remarkable ability and courage, two men who have lived their lives in the country itself. They have not been fettered and checked at every turn, or made to carry out acts of incredible folly, by ministers and permanent officials thousands of miles away. Nor when the Rajah of Sarawak is constructing public works is he compelled to get his men and materials through ''' Crown Agents." Another remarkable feature of the history of Sarawak is that the country has in some way been preserved for British commerce. The neighbouring territory of British North Borneo is overrun by Germans, who have driven every British steamer off the coast and secured all its communica- tions by sea for their own flag. The Chartered Company seems to be either unwilling or unable to subsidize a British steamship service. The phenomenal achievements of such men as Sir Stam- ford Raffles and the two white Rajahs of Sarawak and 14 The British in Borneo their lieutenants are without parallel in the modern history of any other nation, and can only be explained by their unflinching courage, their indomitable perseverance, and their perfect sense of justice. Many of us know how some son of the British Empire, living a life of incredible hardship, in a hut on the bank of a muddy stream in some forgotten jungle, really rules the people of a vast district. In some way the lost Briton con- quers the confidence of native chiefs, pacifies long-standing feuds, and charms the natives into raising crops and cattle, no longer regarding a human head as an object to be snatched from the shoulders of its owner. Most fortunately there will always be Englishmen, Scots, or Irishmen, as the case may be, eager to lead a dog's life in some tropical country, with the chance of a dog's death to end it, so long as their craving for an adventurous career and their desire to serve their country are satisfied. It is necessary to have at least some idea of the characters of such men, in order to understand the pages of this story. Quite the best book about Sarawak is that just published by Mr. Baring Gould and Mr. C. A. Bampfylde, a really excellent and much-needed work. Perhaps the finest thing it contains is the Preface, written by His Highness the Rajah in the true spirit of the Brookes.* * "A History of Sarawak Under its Two White Rajahs," by S. Baring Gould and C. A. Bampfylde. Heniy Sotheran & Co. See also "Rajah Brooke," by Sir Spenser St. John. T. Fisher Unwin. "A Sailor's Life Under Four Sovereigns," by Admiral Sir Henry Keppel. Macmillan & Co., Ltd. 15 CHAPTER I CAPTAIN NORTH WOOD THE following lines appear in a little book printed in Singapore in 1898 :* " The real heroes of British history in this part of the world are such splendid men as Sir Stamford Raffles and the first Rajah Brooke of Sarawak. Their names will never be forgotten, but much useful work in preparing the way for our gigantic commerce of to-day has been done by brave men whom none will remember. The trading captains of the old days made their money very fast, and got as much of it as they wanted, but they seldom succeeded in keeping it. Their fortune was generally entrusted to some one or another who made away with it in the end. Many trading captains have been lost in uncharted seas, murdered by pirates, or stricken down by fever in the midst of their career. They led a stirring life of it, did useful work, and were altogether an interesting race of men." Of all these brave men probably none was more generally successful or had a wider experience than Captain John Dillon Northwood. The son of a sea-captain, he was born in Batavia, and when quite young he was sent to Aus- tralia, where he was educated under the care of the Rev. Mr. White, a worthy clergyman for whom his pupil had a great esteem and affection. Returning to Batavia, he * " The Capital of a Little Empire : A Descriptive Study of a British Crown Colony in the Far East." By John Dill Ross. Reprinted from the Singapore Free Press. 16 Captain Northwood made a voyage to Holland and back in a Dutch East Indiaman, and thus commenced his career as a sailor. For some time he acted as assistant and secretary to Mr. Ross, the o\Mier of the Cocos Islands. Young Northwood was singularly fortunate in gaining the confidence of his master, who probably had no small share in moulding the character of his youthful assistant. This Ross was a most remarkable man, a very fine character, whose life was a veritable romance in itself. Young Northwood made friendships amongst the little European colony on the Cocos Islands, which he kept up for long years afterward. At the age of twenty-seven he married a young lady of seventeen, the daughter of a captain who had arranged with his agent's wife to leave his little girl in her care for just one trip. However, it happened to be the last voyage ever made by Captain Bell. He sailed from Batavia, but neither he nor his ship were ever heard of again. Probably he was cut off by pirates, a fate which was by no means extraordinary in those days. The little girl's mother being already dead, Mr. and Mrs. Gray brought her up as one of their own children until the day when she married young North- wood. The newly wedded couple lived very happily at the Cocos until the death of their patron, Mr. Ross, when North- wood decided to quit the Cocos, and to try his luck in the Austrahan goldfields. The gold-fever was then at its height, and apparently he had caught it pretty badly. But it was an extraordinary project for a yoimg man living in the Cocos with his wife and a little son which she had recently presented to him, and it was carried out in an extraordinary way. Going to Batavia to realize his plans, Northwood came across a revenue cutter which, built to the order of the Dutch Government, had been rejected on account of certain defects. Northwood inspected the cutter, which was quite new, and, deciding that such defects as there were could VOL. I. 17 2 Sixty Years' Life and Adventure in the Far East be made good at small expense, he purchased the little packet. He christened her the Caroline, after his wife, and forthwith assumed his first command, and the title of captain, without troubling the Board of Trade or any- body else about such things as examinations or certificates. Many things were done in those days which would appear highly improper in the present generation. Northwood sailed his cutter to the Cocos, where he took his wife and child on board. As these islands do not produce much else but coco-nuts, it occurred to the enterprising owner to fill the hold of his little boat with them, and this turned out to be a lucky speculation in the end. The Caroline, with the traditional crew of " two men and a boy " — who happened to be Malays — left the Cocos on their adventurous cruise to far-off Australia. The voyage had its incidents, one of the most important of which was that during rough weather the captain's watch slipped out of his hand and fell with a crash on the deck. It was a clumsy but strong sort of watch, not to be easily stopped. It was going aU right when North- wood picked it up, but the glass face was smashed and the minute hand of the watch had disappeared. There was, of course, no such thing as a chronometer on board of the Caroline, and the only guide to time henceforward at the disposal of her captain was the stumpy hour-hand of a battered watch. Albeit Captain Northwood had passed no examinations, and possessed no certificate, he must have been something of a sailor, for in due time he brought the Caroline safely into Melbourne, where he got alongside a wharf which towered over the tiny cockboat. Presently quite a crowd collected about the wharf, and many were the doubts expressed that such a diminutive craft as the Caroline could possibly have sailed the thou- sands of miles which separate the Cocos from Melbourne. However, the hatch was taken off and showed the Caroline to be loaded to the utmost of her capacity with green coco-nuts, which could only come from some tropical i8 Captain Northwood island. Suddenly a man in the crowd flung a shilling on the deck below him, and shouted " Hand me up a coco-nut ! " He promptly had one of the nuts chucked up to him, and this deal fixed the price of coco-nuts for the day. Shilling after shilling pattered on the deck of the Caroline, while the crew was kept busy pitching up coco- nuts to eager buyers, until no more were left. As the coco-nuts cost Northwood absolutely nothing, this par- ticular adventure showed a handsome profit. In long years afterwards, when the Captain had been giving one of his big dinner-parties in his luxurious home in Singapore, he remarked confidentially to his son, as the guests were driving off in their carriages : " I don't mind telling you, Johnnie, that the cloth we had on our table this evening was many sizes larger than the Caroline's mainsail." Captain Northwood had trusty friends in Melbourne, who promised to look after his wife and child while he went off to seek for golden treasure. The Caroline was sold for what the gallant Uttle packet would fetch. The Dutch authorities, who thought she was not good enough to go " nosing " round the Java coast on preventive service, might have felt some mild surprise if they had been told that the condemned cutter had been sailed to Australia. Northwood's experiences in a mining camp need not be related, similar stories having often been told. His usual good fortune did not follow him to the camp. He made about enough to pay his expenses, but not much more, and having discovered that gold was not to be shovelled out of the ground in big nuggets except by a favoured few, he was cured of the gold-fever. Then the real fever of his life seized upon him — ^the sea-fever, which never quitted him until his last day. He got back to Mel- bourne, where he found his wife and child in the best of health, and began to make plans for the future. Ships were cheap in Melbourne in those days. As soon as a vessel got into the port, captain, officers and crew all raced off to the goldfields to make their fortunes. As for VOL. I. 19 2* Sixty Years' Life and Adventure in the Far East their ship, she could just take care of herself, and anybody who wanted could have her. Melbourne harbour was blocked with deserted shipping. Northwood had small difficulty in purchasing a beautiful brig named the Wild Irish Girl for a mere song. His difficulty was to get a crew to work the brig. He had still got his original two and a half Malays from the Caroline as a nucleus, and later recruited a sufficient number of awful vagabonds, who had their own reasons for wanting to quit Austraha, to make up his quota. The Wild Irish Girl was a real ship with some sort of a crew on board, so he could feel that he had some reason for calHng himself Captain Northwood. This seems to be an appropriate opportunity for de- scribing what manner of man John Dillon Northwood happened to be at this period of his history. He stood fully six feet high in his stocking-soles. A massive and powerful head was finely poised on a pair of immense shoulders. His physique was superb, and his general bearing denoted a man of unfailing and simple courage. A more kindly and genial creature never hved. He was given a great sense of humour, and his bronzed face was frequently lit up with smiles, which displayed his fine, white teeth. A pair of long dark moustaches and a short curly beard set off a singularly prepossessing countenance. As for his moral quahties, it need only be said that he was as honest as daylight, generous and open-handed, but impulsive and passionate when he was aroused. When occasion arose, he could hit a man between the eyes and fell him like an ox, without greatly bothering himself about the matter. He was naturally inclined to place confidence in anybody who could teU him a plausible story, and there- fore he fell an easy prey to various designing persons who wished to swindle him ; and their name was legion. He had an especial gift, very rare in sailors. He was not only exceedingly well-read, but he was also a fluent and graphic writer. It was a real pleasure to read the long, descriptive, and witty letters which he so frequently 20 Captain Northwood amused himself by writing to his friends, to relieve the monotony of his long sea- voyages. Unfortunately, it never occurred to Captain Northwood to write a book about his extraordinary experiences and the remarkable men whom he met in the course of his existence. So far from doing anything of the kind, he was extremely reticent, even in conversation with his most intimate friends, in alluding in any way to the main events of his personal history. Another marked feature in the character of a singularly daring and dogged man was that his ambition did not carry him beyond a certain point. He had unequalled opportunities during his career of making himself a power in Borneo, but he flung them aside as being beneath his consideration. But Northwood was essentially a " lucky man." As long as he trusted to his own inspiration and rejected the advice of outsiders, his success was extra- ordinary. His wife was a very pretty and charming young woman, wholly devoted to her husband. Apparently of no great strength of character, she abundantly proved in the hour of danger that her courage ran as high as that of her hus- band. She was a daring and accomplished horsewoman. The gentleness and charity of Mrs. Northwood's disposition made her Hked wherever she went. Captain Northwood had never been anywhere nearer to Singapore than Batavia, but yet he was attracted thither by the reports of the wonderful success of the colony founded by Sir Stamford Raffles — a port where trade was free from the shadow of a Custom House, and where aU could go and come as they pleased. So Northwood decided to sail for Singapore. In due course the Wild Irish Girl dropped her anchor in the Singapore roads, and it was not long before her captain saw that he had a future before him. Trade was booming, tonnage was scarce, and the conditions were such that any man possessing capacity and energy had every chance 21 Sixty Years' Life and Adventure in the Far East of making a fortune more or less rapidly. Sir Stamford Raffles was wise in his generation when he made Singapore a free port. It is a mere truism to repeat that Free Trade made the success of Singapore. What is equally simple of comprehension is that conditions which suited ad- mirably fifty years ago are producing disastrous results to-day. Fifty years ago Great Britain had practically a monopoly of the manufacturing and shipping interests of the world. This has since been shattered to pieces by mighty com- mercial forces which were yet unborn in the days of Raffles. It is within recent years that Germany, the United States, and Japan have suddenly developed with commercial and political portents adverse to British interests. Just as Sir James Brooke was the first to inaugurate a stable government in Sarawak, Captain Northwood, in his humbler sphere, was the pioneer of British com- merce on regular Unes with the Borneo ports north of Sarawak. He devoted his life successfully to an arduous task, the end of which it was fortunate for him that he could not foresee. He was spared the knowledge that the day would come when his son would be compelled by sheer force of circumstances to sell his ships and his trade to the Germans. When he arrived at Singapore, Captain Northwood had offers made to him by Germans (who even then were pushing their way into Siam) to trade between Singapore and Bangkok, on terms that assured him handsome profits. But he would have nothing to do with their proposals. Characteristically he preferred to take up the difficult and perilous Borneo trade entirely on his own account. This masterful man chose to be his own master. The Wild Irish Girl was refitted, and with her full complement of officers and a large native crew, was put on the run between Singapore, Labuan, and Brunei. Freights were high and expenses small, so that in spite of all sorts of difficulties Captain Northwood made the Wild Irish Girl pay hand- 22 Captain Northwood somely. His sole competitor at the time was a Captain Brown, who sailed a fine ship called the Black Diamond. It was a case of hammer and tongs between the two vessels, but Northwood was a keener sailor and a better diplomatist than Brown. The Wild Irish Girl made faster passages than the Black Diamond. The Sultan of Brunei took especial notice of Captain Northwood, and before long trusted in him as he trusted no other man. A British gunboat arrived at Labuan one day to inquire into piracies and various outrages in which one of the Sultan's brothers was concerned. Northwood knew all the facts of the case, and had warned the Sultan that his brother had better mend his ways, and that forays into the British colony of Labuan would result in certain disaster. Labuan, however, offered too many temptations, and the incursions into British territory continued, until the advent of the usual British gunboat. The commander of H.M.S. Bulldog found the Wild Irish Girl in Labuan harbour, sent for Captain Northwood, and requisitioned his services to pilot the gunboat up the Brunei River, rendered dangerous to navigation by sunken vessels and stone barriers placed there by the Brunei sultans so as to compel vessels entering the river to come right under the guns of the battery on Pulo Chermin. Northwood gladly undertook the duty demanded of him, and, piloting H.M.S. Bulldog up the Brunei River, an- chored the little man-of-war at a convenient distance for the bombardment of the Sultan's palace and the town of Brunei. The Sultan had already had some experience of the folly of fighting British warships, and not a shot was fired as the Bulldog passed deliberately under the muzzles of his battery. Armed boats from the gunboat were pulling for the Sultan's palace almost as soon as the ship was anchored, Northwood accompanying the commander as interpreter. The Sultan received his unwelcome visitors with the usual 23 Sixty Years' Life and Adventure in the Far East ceremony and with much dignity, but the commander of H.M.S. Bulldog was a business-like person with but httle sense of the picturesque, it would appear, and Northwood was bidden to hasten matters. It was his unpJeasing task to tell his Highness that his brother's crimes must now be expiated, and that the only punishment for piracy was death. Possibly no one but Northwood could have per- suaded the Sultan that it was useless to attempt any delay at such a crisis. Finally it was decided that the execution of the royal pirate should take place the next morning. When daylight broke, it was seen that one of the Sultan's largest war-prahus had been moored between the Bulldog and the Sultan's palace, and that a large platform had been erected on the deck of the prahu. Once more the Bulldog s boats were in the water and pulling off to the scene of the execution, but this time without Captain Northwood. The British commander urged him to accompany the expedition, but Northwood pleaded that the scene must necessarily be a horrid one, and that it was no business of his. He had discharged a dangerous and unpleasant duty, there was nothing further to be asked of him ; and he positively dechned to be present at the execution. The British boats, having arrived alongside the prahu, a good-looking native, dressed in the royal yellow of Brunei, was led to the platform, and placed in a kneeling position on the scaffold : a bowstring was passed round his neck by two of the Sultan's execu- tioners, and the next instant he was choking in his death- struggle. After having satisfied themselves that the sen- tence of death had really been carried into effect, the commander and officers of the Bulldog returned to their ship. Captain Northwood piloted the gunboat safely back to Labuan, and his task was completed. But was the man in the yellow robes really the Sultan's brother ? Only Northwood could have identified him, and he chose to absent himself from the scene of the execution. 24 Captain Northwood Be that as it may, the salutary lesson inflicted achieved the intended result. From the day of the execution the raids on Labuan ceased. The Sultan's guilty brother may have sent an innocent man to suffer in his place, but he was never seen again in Brunei. Perchance he may have got into the interior by the rivers, or to some more distant destination, such as the islands of Palawan or Sulu. Not a word ever passed between the Sultan and Captain Northwood about the execution. Although the Sultan had small reason to thank him for piloting the British gun- boat up the Brunei River, or for putting on the pressure which enabled the whole affair to be settled in twenty-four hours, apparently Northwood's absence from the execution had a great effect. He became a greater favourite at the palace than ever. Brunei at this period of its history was a much more important place than it is to-day. The Sultan Abdul Mumein reigned over territories which have since been taken from him by diplomacy or by force. The trade of Brunei was valuable, and was chiefly managed by a Chinese com- munity, whose acknowledged representative, the " Capitan China," was always in close touch with the Sultan. By this time Captain Northwood had run the Black Diamond off the coast, and had a monopoly of the sea-trade. He found it necessary in consequence to replace the Wild Irish Girl by a larger brig, the Lizzie Webber, to be suc- ceeded in her turn by a very handsome and beautifully appointed barque called the Don Pedro. While the Don Pedro was being refitted at Singapore, the captain started for a final cruise in the Lizzie Webber. Leaving Singapore with a full cargo, the vessel arrived at Brunei after a fine passage and an uneventful voyage. The Brunei River was crowded with native craft from Mindanao, Sulu, and many another distant island. The nakodahs (captains) of these native craft frequently paid friendly visits on board the Lizzie Webber, and were always cordially received by Northwood, who often purchased their cargoes of produce, 25 Sixty Years' Life and Adventure in the Far East There was a certain native captain who came on board repeatedly, under the pretext of doing a trade, which somehow never came to actual business. Northwood's chief native officer, a Javanese Malay named Cassim, got suspicious of this particular visitor, Si Rahman, whom he declared to be an lUanun. (The Illanuns were at that time the fiercest pirates known in these waters.) North- wood, although he noticed that his Illanun friend was especially curious about the armament of the Lizzie Webber, and her battery of twelve-pounders, thought nothing of Cassim's warnings. This Cassim proved to be a faithful and lifelong friend to Captain Northwood, and one who served him literally to the day of his death. His fidelity was put to a severe test when Northwood was compelled to put steamers on the Borneo run, instead of the fine old sailing ships. Whether master or man was more disgusted at the in- evitable change, it is hard to say ; but they both adapted themselves from sail to steam, and stuck to each other through thick and thin. Cassim understood native ways even better than his master, and grew more and more suspicious of the Illanun chief. The report had got about that Captain Northwood was taking a large sum of money to Singapore, as indeed happened to be the case. The Lizzie Webber dropped down the river and got across to Labuan, where she com- pleted her cargo, and also took on board a Mr. Meldrum, one of Northwood's friends, as his only passenger that trip. The brig sailed one fine afternoon, with a light and fitful breeze. During the night the current set her over towards the Brunei coast. At daylight, as she slowly rounded a point, her captain saw, to his horror, a fleet of eight Illanun vessels lying in wait for him in a little bay. The wind died away altogether and left the brig without so much as steerage-way on her. All was hurr}^ and bustle on board the Lizzie Webber. The men beat to quarters, the guns were run out, and 26 Captain Northwood rifles and cutlasses served to the crew. Captain North- wood went below for a few moments, during which he handed his wife a revolver, with strict injunctions to keep in her cabin during the fight, and to shoot her son and herself if the pirates carried the ship. This son was little John Dillon Northwood, born in Singapore some four years before. Northwood then took up his post on the quarter-deck while events developed rapidly. The pirate squadron came sweeping do\\Ti on their prey, each prahu pulling some forty oars or more at a great rate. The pirates were several hundreds strong, and had they gone straight to work, the fate of the Lizzie Webber would have been settled within the next half hour. That, fortunately, is not the native way of doing things. The pirate vessels pulled right round the motionless brig and then the leading prahu swept towards her until both vessels were within easy hail of each other. An exposed platform had been erected right amidships of the pirate vessel, on which stood, conspicuous in a scarlet jacket. Si Rahman himself. The pirate chief hailed Northwood by name and explained that he had come as a friend and, being short of tobacco, proposed to come on board the Lizzie Webber to purchase a supply of it. To this Northwood 's reply was that he knew pirates when he saw them, and that if the vessels which surrounded him did not sheer off, he would open fire on them at once. The Illanun adjured Northwood to give up his ship without a useless struggle, especialh'' as he himself wore a magic charm which rendered him invulnerable to shot or steel. Cassim, on the main-deck, was anxiously watching his master's movements, and thinking that a certain wave of the hand gave him liberty to do so, immediately fired the gun of which he was in charge at the pirate prahu, and thus commenced the action on his own responsibility, much to the anger of Mr. Simpson, the chief officer. The Lizzie Webber carried a battery of six twelve - 27 Sixty Years' Life and Adventure in the Ear East pounders, and Northwood, having purchased some time previously a few cases of American muskets from a Yankee captain whom he had met at sea, had half a dozen muskets for every sailor on board. These had all been carefully loaded before the fighting commenced. Thus the Lizzie Webber's crew had only to throw down an empty musket to pick up a loaded one, and kept up a rapid fire which greatly disconcerted the pirates. The brig, like other ships on that coast, carried a very large crew to work her cargo as well as to sail her. Her twelve-pounders were each loaded with a round shot and a canvas bag of bullets rammed home on top of it, which made a very effective charge at short ranges. From the moment that Cassim fired the first shot, the Lizzie Webber kept up a hot fire with her guns and musketry, while the pirates, who mounted a number of light guns, replied vigorously. Their prahus were strengthened by breastworks of Borneo ironwood strong enough to with- stand the impact of a round shot. The roar of the guns and the constant rattle of the musketry made a terrific din, above which rose the yells of the pirates. Mr. Simpson was carried below badly wounded, with three native sailors in the same condition, within a few minutes after the action commenced. In the absence of any surgeon, Mrs. Northwood had to attend as best she could to the wounded. Poor lady ! she had trouble enough on her hands. Her son Johnnie, so far from being frightened by the din of battle, made frantic attempts to escape to the upper deck to see what " papa was doing." He had finally to be carried off by his mother, kicking and screaming with rage, to be locked up in a spare cabin. Mrs. Northwood's presence of mind saved a disaster, which would have put any further resistance out of the question. The Lizzie Webber's magazine was right aft, and was got at through a scuttle in a store-room. As powder was running short for the guns, Mr. Jenkins, the 28 Captain Northwood second mate, sent a couple of native sailors to bring up some kegs for the magazine. With the usual thoughtless- ness of Malays, the sailors were actually going into the magazine with a naked light, when Mrs. Northwood rushed in time to seize the flaring lamp and throw it through an open port-hole into the sea. She then went into the magazine herself to see the powder handed up, and found the whole floor of the place covered thickly with loose gunpowder. In those stirring days a captain's wife needed to have her wits about her ! In the meantime Captain Northwood himself was fight- ing his ship for aU he was worth. His great object was to bring down Si Rahman, who exhibited the most extra- ordinary daring — possessed as he was of the idea that his magic charm would preserve him from aU danger. There he stood on his platform, like a scarlet demon, directing the attack, and constantly exposed to a rattling fire, and somehow nothing could touch him. " For goodness sake, Meldrum, do bowl over that ruffian in the scarlet dress ! " roared Northwood. Meldrum quietly loaded a new American rifle of which he was very proud, though it would be considered a very queer weapon nowadays. The " rifhng " consisted of two broad straight grooves right down the barrel without the slightest twist. Into these grooves there then fitted a " belted bullet," wrapped in a leather patch to prevent windage. In the massive stock of the rifle was a solid brass flap, operated by a spring, which revealed two cavities, in which the leather patches and per- cussion-caps were kept. Such was the rifle of those early days, the progenitor of the modem small-bore with a tremendous twist in its rifling. Meldrum methodically loaded his pet rifle and system- atically potted at the scarlet Si Rahman — without the slightest effect. Northwood himself fired a few shots at him from his own favourite American smooth-bore carbine with the same result. From the main-deck and forecastle scores of shots were directed at Si Rahman without hurting 29 Sixty Years' Life and Adventure in the Far East him. The man was perfectly aware of the unavaihng attempts to bring him down, and openly rejoiced in the strength of his magic charm. It really seemed as if the charm was working to some purpose. Cassim, especially, tried the united effects of round shot and bags of bullets on his hated enemy, but while they took full effect on the crew of the prahu, nothing could touch the scarlet Si Rahman. After three hours of desperate struggle there came a lull. At a signal from Si Rahman all firing from the pirate squadron ceased, and they pulled away from the Lizzie Webber. For a brief moment, Captain Northwood hoped that they had enough of it, and that the attack was definitely repulsed. Nevertheless, he went round his decks, saw that the heated twelve-pounders were sponged out and ready for further service, and that all the small arms were reloaded. Barely had he completed his round when he saw the pirate vessels sweeping down upon him again under the full pressure of their swift oars. Si Rah- man's plan of battle was now evident. Having at first hoped to make an easy prey of the Lizzie Webber, when he found himself baulked by the deadly firing from the brig, he had tried to wear down Northwood's resistance by picking off his men, and exhausting his ammunition. Now, dis- appointed with the results of his tactics, he decided to do what he should have done some hours before, and, throwing his hundreds of men on the deck of the Lizzie Webber, leave cold steel to do the rest. The eight prahus made a dash for the starboard side of the brig, thus leaving her port battery idle. Northwood saw the coming onrush with the blackest despair. How could he hope with his scanty crew to withstand the onslaught of some hundreds of desperate Illanun pirates ? He had half a mind to throw up the sponge, to rush below, and after despatching his wife and child to blow up the magazine. However, the fighting instinct is hard to quell in such a man, and for another 30 Captain Northwood minute he watched the occasional shots from his star- board guns flying harmlessly over the approaching prahus, which lay so low in the water that it was impossible to depress the muzzles of the Lizzie Webber's guns sufficiently to hit them. Si Rahman's own prahu, which was by far the best manned of the pirate fleet, drew rapidly ahead of the rest, and was almost alongside the brig when North- wood saw Cassim about to fire his twelve-pounder, with a result which must be necessarily harmless. Leaping down to the main-deck, Northwood restrained the Malay's hand and shouted : " Don't fire over the prahu ! Train the gun straight on the platform and kill Sidi Rahman ! " Cassim showed that he had driven the wedge beneath the gun's breech as far as it would go and that he could depress the gun's muzzle no further. Looking round with a hunted desperation in his eyes, Northwood happened to see a spare spar lying on the deck. Suddenly bending down he put forth the whole of his great strength, and lifting the gun-carriage bodily, he got Cassim and another sailor to roll the spar beneath it. Then taking a hasty look along the sights he fired the gun. Before the smoke had cleared away, dire yells arose from the pirate prahu, while shouts of joy rang along the decks of the Lizzie Webber. What Captain Northwood saw when he looked over his bulwarks was a pile of wreckage in place of the famous platform on which Sidi Rahman had so recklessly displayed his scarlet coat. As for Sidi Rahman himself, a scarlet patch in the water swirling around the sinking prahu sufficiently accounted for the fiery Illanun chief. His magic charm had failed him at the critical moment. The other pirate vessels rescued as many as they could from the sinking boat, under a hot fire from the Lizzie Webber, and then pulled away from her. And now, a gentle breeze at last springing up, the Lizzie Webber began to get way on her. Captain Northwood thought once more that he had escaped from the toils of his enemies. Still he availed himself of this respite to put bis ship 31 Sixty Years' Life and Adventure in the Far East in fighting trim. Guns and small arms were all loaded, and the tired crew given their first meal during this terrible day. But the pirate fleet still hung round the brig, their boats could still pull much faster than she could sail, and it was clear that the foe was only waiting for darkness to deliver his final attack. It was a grim and hopeless prospect. However, the breeze was freshening all the time, and as the Lizzie Webber began to slip through the water, the pirates, thirsting for revenge as weU as plunder, closed on her under the rays of an evening sun. Once more the firing raged hotly on both sides, when suddenly in the midst of the fighting Mrs. Northwood appeared on the quarter-deck to tell her husband that there were only six more kegs of powder left in the maga- zine. It was not a message she could trust to other lips than her own. " Very well ! " said Northwood. " Send up the six kegs and leave the rest to me. Obey my orders and go to your cabin." The pirates were rapidly approaching the Lizzie Webber. The six kegs of powder would just enable her guns to fire one round apiece, with something to spare for the muskets. The situation this time seemed perfectly desperate. North- wood recalled the lines : And in our hearts a dread despair Too deep for words, too dark for prayer ! But an inspiration came at the right moment. Sud- denly he altered his tactics, and instead of flying from his pursuers, he attacked them. Down went his helm, he spilled his sails, and before the pirates could comprehend his new move, he was sailing through their fleet, firing his last broadside. One of the prahus was caught at a dis- advantage. Springing to the wheel, Northwood altered the Lizzie Webber's course by a few points. Next minute there was a tremendous crash as the keel of the brig rode over the wreck of the prahu. Some of the pirates were 3^ Captain Northwood shot as they swam in the water. Others, with the usual agility of natives, actually managed to climb up the ship's chains in an endeavour to reach the deck, but were promptly cut down. Then came the sudden darkness of the tropics, and in its welcome obscurity the Lizzie Webber's sails filled and bore her into safety. The Illanun pirates had sustained a bloody defeat in an attack which lasted eight mortal hours on a mere brig manned by three white men and some forty natives. This affair of the Lizzie Webber had a very salutary effect. Pirates conceived a horror of the very name of Northwood and carefully refrained from molesting him again. Indeed, they got something of a dislike against attacking British ships in general after the death of Si Rahman and the closing catastrophe which marked the fight. That Si Rahman's magic charm should have failed when victory was smiling on him must have impressed the superstitious Illanuns much more deeply than Europeans would think probable. In due course the Lizzie Webber reached Singapore, where her arrival made some sensation. Singapore merchants were deeply interested in the suppression of piracy in those days, and a few of them presented Northwood with a piece of plate, while a good many people came off to see the brig out of curiosity. Amongst others was that gallant officer. Major Browning. The major intended sailing to Labuan in the Lizzie Webber to inspect the batteries of the island, but on visiting the brig, he was so horrified at Captain Northwood's unprofessional conduct in rolling a spare spar under a gun-carriage that he said he would be eternally condemned if he sailed in the same ship with such a fellow. Major Browning kept his word and ultimately reached Labuan in a gunboat. VOL. I. 33 CHAPTER II LABUAN IN THE OLDEN DAYS CAPTAIN NORTHWOOD bought the Don Pedro as a mere speculation. To all appearance a finer ship never floated ; but the barque had a bad character. Nothing could make her sail ; her passages were the longest on record, and in the hands of successive masters she had proved to be a regular " pig " of a ship, capable of doing anything but making a fast run from port to port. Now, in the Borneo trade a fast sailer was essential. The Don Pedro was going absurdly cheap, it was true, but then the handsome barque, more than twice the size of the Lizzie Webber, would be dear at a gift, if she sailed like a haystack. " Why the deuce can't the Don Pedro sail ? " anxiously thought Northwood. Anyhow, he bought the handsome sluggard for a mere song, much less than he got for the fast-sailing Lizzie Webber, though she was not in the pink of condition after her eight hours' fight with the lUanun pirates. Having bought the Don Pedro, Northwood seriously tackled the problem before him. He spent many an hour figuring out a new sail plan for his new ship, and finally made up his mind that amongst other things the foremast was too near the mainmast. He went to the expense of havmg the foremast taken out and stepped a little distance forward — not more than three or four feet. It seems a trifle, but it made all the difference. With altered spars and a new set of sails made to her captain's own plans, the Don Pedro looked a different ship. When Northwood took her out for a trial spin after he had made all his alterations, he found to his delight that 34 Labuan in the Olden Days she sailed like a witch, and was as handy as a top. The man who sold the Don Pedro for a song began to say harsh things about various wooden-headed skippers in his employ, who had unanimously certified that the ship was fit only to be broken up, but he readily recognized that Northwood had paid his money, had run his risks, and was fully entitled to the reward of his superior science as a sailor. The Don Pedro was a lucky ship for Northwood from the very start. On her maiden voyage for Labuan and Brunei, she loaded a full cargo and, moreover, Northwood was paid a handsome sum to carry a detachment of Indian troops for Labuan. His cabins were taken at excellent rates by the officers and their wives, and Major Barclay, the officer in command of the detachment, proved to be a nice genial fellow. The Don Pedro was a very comfortable and even a luxurious ship. There was a fine piano in her spacious saloon, and the after-cabins were large and airy. They were fitted up most comfortably, and had actual large bedsteads in them, instead of the miserable bunks of the modern mail steamer. Northwood kept an excellent table, and possessed an agreeable manner, which did much to keep his passengers happy and amused during a long voyage. The first trip of the Don Pedro commenced under the best of circumstances, and Northwood, after going over his supercargo's freight-list, found that he should, with average luck, clear the cost of his ship in three or four voyages. The Don Pedro made a very fine run to Labuan. The time had passed away most agreeably for everybody on board. Reading, chess, whist, music, and chatting and lounging about in long chairs, with an occasional brandy and soda and a Manila cheroot, sufficed to fill up spare hours in various ways for various tastes. Major Barclay and Captain Northwood had a real regard and liking for one another before the voyage was ended, while their wives swore eternal friendship after the manner of women. VOL. I. 35 3* Sixty Years' Life and Adventure in the Far East The Don Pedro made fast at the rambling, rickety wharf in Labuan harbour, to which Northwood always brought his ship, and landed his passengers, who were more than half sorry to finish such a pleasant cruise. Labuan harbour consists of a splendid bay for com- mercial purposes. It possesses a very wide expanse of deep, tranquil water, so that in places a ship can anchor at a very short distance from the shore. Nature has very kindly placed a group of small islands off the entrance to the harbour, which act as natural breakwaters. The island itself is on a fine trade-route ; and, as a beautiful harbour with a coal-field within ten miles of it is a thing rarely to be found, it undoubtedly has its attractions. Of natiural beauties Labuan has very few, but considering the island from a purely business point of view, there is perhaps no other harbour in the whole Far East offering so many facilities for the development of a mercantile port of the first order. It seems regrettable, therefore, that Labuan, after an existence of so many years, should stiU remain a comparatively obscure and little frequented island. At the time when Captain Northwood sailed the Don Pedro into harbour, Labuan had reached the height of a somewhat artificial prosperity. A native regim.ent, and a battery or two of artillery, formed the garrison, and gave a considerable amount of business and animation to the place. Then the Scottish Oriental Coal Company had taken the mines in hand on a grand scale. The con- veniences offered by Labuan brought a great deal of trade from the mainland and the other islands. Rajah Brooke's successful expeditions against the Seribas and Sekarang pirates had created a sense of security along the Borneo coast for many a hundred miles beyond the Sarawak territory. AU seemed to be progressing favourably, and with ordinary good fortune the place should have become a colony of great importance and one of our most valued possessions in the Far East. At this period of our story Labuan was a Crown Colony, 36 Labuan in the Olden Days under the rule of Mr, John Pope Hennessey, fated to be better known in various parts of the world as Sir John Pope Hennessey, G.C.M.G., etc., etc., etc. Northwood took a great interest in Pope Hennessey, whom, by the way, he used to call " The Pope," for short. John Pope Hennessey was a very extraordinary man, who had a long and picturesque public career. This, according to North- wood, he commenced as a very young man, representing an Irish constituency in the House of Commons. Gifted with much ability and possessing an inordinate flow of speech, he speedily became a rankling thorn in the side of the Government of the day. Pope Hennessey was not only " agin the Government," to which he had sworn allegiance, but against any kind of government anywhere. To suit his ends, he espoused the cause of Polish Freedom in the House to such an extent that he probably encouraged certain Polish patriots to get themselves killed in the foolish belief that Great Britain would rise in arms to deliver them from the Oppressor ! A number of Polish patriots, wending their way to the end of all things earthly, managed in the brief span of life yet accorded to them to subscribe in their own gallant and generous way to present a massive silver cup to their Irish saviour, into which was let a vastly interesting collection of gold coins, displaying the heads of ancient Polish kings. From a certain point of view, the cup was priceless, but, according to Northwood, Pope Hennessey's necessities at the moment were such that he sold it for what it would fetch. A phenomenon of much import to unhappy Labuan occurred at this time. The penniless, eloquent and horribly troublesome member for some remote Irish constituency was suddenly offered a post in the very Far East. The appointment in question was that of Governor of Labuan, worth in hard cash some two thousand pounds per annum, what with pay and allowances. The British Government put up the job, and Mr. Pope Hennessey took it. Wherever Pope Hennessey went he wrought mischief to British 37 Sixty Years' Life and Adventure in the Far East interests. The British Government gave him a handle to his name and one or more decorations, plus salaries rising to five thousand pounds ; but, to do him justice, Pope Hennessey remained to his last official moment the man who was " agin the Government " and took its pay. In the course of his career he set the blacks against the whites in the West Indies, the French element against the British element in the Mauritius, and, finally, he tried to make some trouble in Hong-Kong. But perhaps Pope Hen- nessey did his deadliest work in Labuan. The budding colony wanted all the encouragement it could get. It was not yet strong enough to stand a drastic system of taxation. As there were no racial hatreds handy, Pope Hennessey had a good look at Labuan, and declared that " the place must pay its way." That is to say, he saddled it with the cost of the garrison and put taxes on everything that could be taxed, so that the life was practically choked out of the little island. In those days colonial governors were not hooked on to a telegraph cable, and could do a vast deal in carrying out any parti- cular policy before the Colonial Office could have any say in the matter. The Coal Company, which was to have been the glory of the island, was merely spending money in various un- profitable directions. There were frequent changes in the management, and each manager's first care appeared to be to reverse his predecessor's policy, and, above aU, to order out a new cargo of machinery. One genius got out a very expensive plant for distilling shale-oil. This was landed on the beach and never got any further. The next manager said that there was shale in the island, but that it would be necessary to wait at least a million years before any- body could get any oil out of it, as it was quite a new formation of shale, and so it appears the other man's geology was all wrong. As much of the oil-plant as the Don Pedro could load without shutting out too much oi other people's cargo was shipped to Singapore, where the 38 Labuan in the Olden Days company's agents sold it for considerably less than the freight which they paid to Northwood for bringing it back to Singapore. Meanwhile, the manager devoted his energies to building an expensive wharf in the wTong place. During all this time Northwood was making money fa.st, and investing his profits in promoting his direct in- terests. He bought up house property in Labuan to such an extent that in the end practically the whole of the little town belonged to him. Again, if a Chinaman who was in any way a decent sort of fellow wanted money to open a sago-flour factory, or to buy jungle produce, Northwood was always ready to advance him money, at what was then the phenomenally cheap rate of twelve per cent, per annum, always provided that the borrower signed a three- years' contract to confine his freights solely to Northwood's ships. He, on his side, guaranteed to find sufficient tonnage for all requirements. Northwood had no sort of material guarantee for the large sums he thus advanced to open up the Borneo trade, but he was a shrewd man, who made but few mistakes, and his personal popularity was of the greatest assistance to him. Almost everybody, whether white, yellow, or brown, liked the captain. The Chinese and natives had the most abso- lute trust in him. Northwood's sagacious and far-sighted policy stood him in good stead in the hour of stress. The Scottish Oriental Coal Company, which did things on a great scale, sent out a fleet of four fine steamers to carry the coals from the Labuan mines to Singapore, and other ports in the Far East. Unluckily for Northwood and all concerned, there were hardly any coals to be exported from Labuan ; some- thing, as usual, had gone wrong with the mines, and the output was very small indeed. In these unfortunate cir- cumstances the local manager decided to employ his steamers as freighters, and incidentally to break up Northwood's trade. To his vast amazement, he found that the thing 39 Sixty Years' Life and Adventure in the Far East could not be done. The coal company's steamers were built for carrying coal, and were quite unsuited for the very mixed cargoes from the Borneo coast. Nor had they any accommodation for either cabin or deck passengers. No- body would have anything to do with the company's steamers, and it was only then that it came to light what a tremendous grip Northwood had got of the trade. The shippers either could not or would not ship by the steamers. Finally, in despair, the manager sent for Northwood and offered him terms. He pointed out to the sailing ship cap- tain that with " a rotten wooden barque " he had no chance against four steamers owned by a wealthy com- pany. The manager offered Northwood a very handsome salary to run the company's steamers and the freight trade on their behalf, subject, of course, to his becoming their paid servant, and ceasing all operations on his account. The offer was tempting enough, but Northwood would have none of it. The Don Pedro sailed for Singapore loaded as deep as it was safe to load the ship. There was not a single cabin to let, and her decks simply swarmed with native passengers. The company's steamer left at the same time for Singapore, with a few hundred tons of surface-coal dug up in a hurry. Their engineer in charge of the pumps, having " gone Fantee " with a case of brandy and a couple of native women, had left the main-shaft to fill up with water. The engineer in charge of the railway line was down with Labuan fever, and so things went from bad to worse, while a distracted manager wondered at Northwood's folly in rushing to his own ruin. On arriving at Singapore Northwood looked about for a larger vessel than the Don Pedro, and finally bought for a handsome price the Samson, a beautiful full-rigged ship, in every way suited for his trade. He did not hke the idea of parting with the Don Pedro, so he decided to put the barque on the Saigon trade, under the command of his chief officer, Simpson, who had been badly wounded during 40 Labuan in the Olden Days the Lizzie Webber affair. Captain Simpson was very grateful to Northwood for his promotion, but, unfortunately, did not live very long to enjoy it. The Samson proved to be a very successful and popular ship. The only thing which bothered Northwood was the dead calms which are to be encountered in those waters, and which sometimes last for a long time. On some voyages he had known what it was to take six weeks to drift the eight hundred miles which separate Labuan from Singapore, whereas ^^ith a fair wind he would run the distance in the same number of days. One fine evening the Samson was lying alongside the wharf at Labuan, quite ready for sea, and was to sail at daybreak the following morning. Captain Northwood was giving a farewell bachelor dinner on board. Captain Barkspur and a couple of the officers from H.M.S. Sharp- shooter were amongst the guests. Then there were also present. Major Barclay and two of his officers, while Dr. McPhun and three or four civiUans made up the party. Northwood made it an iron rule to be a strict teetotaller at sea, but once he was in port he used to enjoy his bottle of wine as much as any man. The dinners given on board of the Samson were always very excellent, but those were days when gentlemen sometimes drank just a little too much wine. When poor Dr. McPhun thought it about time to retiurn to the bosom of his family, he saw two gangways instead of one, and choosing the imaginary instead of the wooden one, fell incontinently into the sea with a loud splash. Major Barclay looked over the side and said, philo- sophically enough : " The old Doctor has gone overboard, but he's much too fat to sink. He's floatin' about all right ! " Northwood, in his turn, had a look at the Doctor, and exclaimed in horrified tones : " But he's floating wrong side up ! " He was a very strong and expert swimmer, so, kicking off 41 Sixty Years' Life and Adventure in the Far East his shoes he went overboard to the rescue. Without too much effort the half -drowned doctor was got on board, carefully dried, and put to bed until next morning. North- wood having got into a fresh set of white ducks, came on deck again, and sat down to have a final chat with his other guests. Now H.M.S. Sharpshooter was a surve3ang-ship, and Captain Barkspur was indebted to Northwood for much valuable assistance in making his new chart of Borneo waters. In any event, Barkspur had a great liking for the hospitable and genial skipper of the Samson, and men- tioning that the Sharpshooter was about to steam for Singa- pore, asked if he could take any letters for his host. " Well," said Northwood, " I wish you would take me with you instead ! " " What ! take you as a passenger ? " " No, not quite that ; but it's nothing .but dead calms all round just now ; the sea is just like a sheet of glass. Good- ness knows when the Samson will ever get to Singapore ! Now, if you would only give my ship a friendly tow across, it would mean a small fortune for me ! " Barkspur said the thing was absurd ; then somehow the idea seemed less ridiculous than at first, and he finally consented to the proposal. Shortly after this the festive gathering broke up, and Northwood's guests reached their respective destinations without any further incident. Very early next morning Captain Barkspur was awakened from his brief slumbers by an unusual trampling and bustle overhead. Then he realized that he was suffer- ing from what is vulgarly known in the Far East as " a stiff head." The captain of H.M.S. Sharpshooter soxro^wiv^y admitted to himself that this was the result of topping off a quantity of champagne with a few brandies and sodas. Too many cheroots also, beyond a doubt ! Meanwhile, he rang a bell and sent a marine on deck to find out the cause of the unseemly noises overhead, and to bid them to cease instantly. 42 Labuan in the Olden Days The marine returned to say that it was only Captain Northwood bending his cables. The horrified Barkspur simply jumped into a uniform and hastened on deck, where he found Northwood, looking as fresh as paint, contemplating with a beatific smile a couple of fine Manila hawsers, artistically made fast to the Sharpshooter's bitts. " What's the meaning of all this ? " roared Barkspur. " Well ! " calmly responded Northwood, " Mr. Shovells, your chief engineer, said you might be getting under way very shortly, so I thought I would get everything ready in good time for the tow. ..." '' Tow! ! !" " Why, yes ! You're going to tow the Samson to Singa- pore, aren't you ? At least, you promised to do so last night. I say, Simpson, I think you heard Captain Barkspur say he would do so ! " Lieutenant Simpson, one of Northwood's guests at his dinner, had been an amazed listener to the conversation about towing the Samson. He turned rather red in the face, and said that he beheved that Captain Northwood was stating facts correctly. " Then that settles the matter," quoth Northwood. Barkspur promptly retorted that he wanted certain condemned Manila hawsers taken off his quarter-deck at once, as he intended to leave for Singapore without any further delay. " Do you mean to say that you actually think that I am going to tow that outrageous old East Indiaman of yours all the way to Singapore ? " he asked. Here Barkspur looked angrily at the towering masts and spars of the Samson just astern of him. Northwood simply expressed his undying confidence in Captain Bark- spur's word, and taking out a spotless white handkerchief, blew some imaginary tears down his nose. " This comes of dining with a merchant skipper," growled Barkspur. " I've got a head on me Hke a toyshop, and 43 Sixty Years' Life and Adventure in the Far East find I'm expected to tow a monstrous wind-jammer from here to Jerusalem ! " " If you wiU invite me to your cabin, I daresay I can relieve you of that little headache in a brace of shakes, and we can talk over other things afterwards." So the two captains went below, and once they were comfortably seated in Barkspur's cabin, it turned out that Northwood's prescription was " a hair of the dog," in other words, just a little champagne with a few drops of Angos- tura bitters in it. So a " small bottle " with the attendant Angostura was put on the table, and when the champagne was finished, Barkspur's headache had somehow disap- peared, whilst Northwood feelingly observed that he had never felt better in his life. " Mind you ! " said Barkspur, as they rose from the table, " I cast you off at the Horsburgh Light. I'm not going to tow your Samson right into Singapore harbour. And you are not to say a word about it to anybody." To these conditions Captain Northwood wiUingly con- sented, and forthwith went on board his ship. A couple of hours later the good folks of Labuan were more than a httle surprised to see H.M.S. Sharpshooter steaming at full speed out of the harbour, whilst astern of her the Samson strained gallantly at her tow-ropes, and glided gaily through a crystal sea, without so much as a stitch of canvas set. Life in Labuan was very unconventional in those distant days, when all sorts of odd things used to happen with- out causing any great surprise to anybody. Some of the men sent out to the island on good salaries seemed to make it their object to do as little as possible in return for the money which they received ; and as Labuan has an enervating climate, and is but a poor place for sport or other healthy forms of amusement, they naturally took to drinking and dissipation. A few who got ambitious, or simply could not help it, would overwork themselves and go down under the Labuan fever. The men who got 44 Labuan in the Olden Days on best were those who were moderate in their work, as in everything else. Even His Excellency the Governor, in his very fine residence standing in a beautiful park, could get bored and find time passing all too slowly. One of the successors of Mr. Pope Hennessey, who was a very economical Governor, took to keeping cows as a hobby. As he could get as many native convicts as he required to look after his cows, it was not a costly amuse- ment. Then he started making butter, in quantities considerably in excess of the requirements of his house- hold. Nothing would induce His Excellency to give away any of his surplus butter while it was sweet and fresh. It was all carefully potted and stored. By and by, when the butter got so strong that either the Governor or It would have to quit the house, then would His Excellency pen a few of the polite notes which he knew so well how to write, and during the same day aU the prominent citizens of Labuan were afflicted with a present of the Governor's butter. It was a painful sight to see a prominent citizen's wife writing a slavish and palpably insincere letter of thanks to His Excellency, for his " wel- come and delightful gift," while her husband was standing over the gardener to see that he dug a certain hole deep enough. As for the Governor, he would go through his little pile of grateful and appreciative letters with much gratification, and then go ahead making some more butter. Another Governor, Mr. Hugh Low, took up the study of fruit and flowers. In due course he produced what was probably the most delicious fruit in the world, the Labuan pomelo, the result of grafting oranges on pomelo trees. For fragrance, flavour and juiciness, the Labuan pomelo was without its equal. When this fruit was in season, Northwood never sailed from Labuan without a good supply of pomeloes, which were the delight of his friends in Singapore. As Resident of Perak, in later years, Sir Hugh Low rose to great distinction, but the island of 45 Sixty Years' Life and Adventure in the Far East Labuan never appeared to give him the scope necessary for his abilities. Indeed, a horrid blight settled on the unfortunate colony and its affairs. The great Coal Company, after an extravagant expenditure of capital, went into liquida- tion. Its steamers were transferred to the China coast, and formed into a separate concern, which as the Scottish Oriental Steam Navigation Company had a long and, pre- sumably, a fairly prosperous career, with a considerable increase in the number of its steamers. But in the end the Germans bought up the whole fleet and transferred it to their own flag. Perhaps one of the most striking features in the story of the Labuan trade is that, while the neighbouring State of Sarawak, some four hundred miles away from Labuan, had a regular and efficient steamship service between Kuching and Singapore ever since 1856, it was nearly twenty years later before Captain Northwood put his first steamer on the line between Singapore, Labuan and Brunei. At this day Sarawak is progressive and prosperous, while Labuan, in spite of its unequalled advantages, is by no means appreciated at its real value. 46 CHAPTER III SINGAPORE IN THE OLDEN DAYS AS agreed, H.M.S. Sharpshooter cast off the Samson when the two vessels had reached the Horsburgh Lighthouse, and the same afternoon Captain Bark- spur was at his moorings at the man-of-war anchorage of Singapore harbour. The Samson drifted in next morning, and Northwood dropped his anchor in the roads and went ashore to look after his affairs. In due course he worked round to McAlister's, the ship-chandler's, the rendezvous of all the skippers in the port, where they would smoke and swap yarns about themselves and their ships, all to the ultimate benefit of the worthy McAlister, with whom they ran up long biUs at very taU prices. Somehow it got round that the Samson had made a wonderful passage from Labuan, apparently in a dead calm. The skippers rubbed their eyes, and when North- wood entered the shop, he was hailed with a shower of questions. Captain Shelback, of the Flying Cloud, was the first to tackle him. " I say, Northwood, how long d'ye say you took from Labuan to here ? " he cried. " Six days and a half, sir." " Nonsense ! Rot ! D'ye think you're talking to idiots ? " " Well," intervened Captain Speker, of the Spindrift, " I've just come from the Harbour Master's office and seen the Samson's papers, and she's sailed the voyage all right in a little over six days." 47 Sixty Years' Life and Adventure in the Far East Shelback was completely taken aback, and after a while asked how the devil he did it ? " By good navigation, my dear sir, just good naviga- tion ! " replied North wood in a careless tone as he left the shop to avoid any more awkward questions. He never said a word about his passage himself, but in the course of a day or two the truth inevitably leaked out through other sources. Captain Shelback never liked Northwood before, but now he hated him, and held out angrily and at length about Northwood's " cheek." How the man escaped being kicked over the ship's side, instead of getting a tow from H.M.S. Sharpshooter, was an impenetrable mystery to the envious master of the Flying Cloud. The other captains said it was like Northwood's luck, and took it out of him by chaffing him unmercifully about his smart passage. For all this Northwood cared nothing ; but, happening to run across Captain Barkspur in Raffles Square, he met with the briefest recognition from the captain of H.M.S. Sharpshooter. With his usual sagacity Northwood recog- nized that he was one man to Barkspur in Labuan and quite another in Singapore, so he simply passed by with a touch of his hat. Yet it so happened that long years afterwards, Barkspur and Northwood met each other in a London club and talked over old times in Labuan with a zest which can be imagined. The old-time merchant skipper of Singapore put on a good deal of style. For instance, there was Captain Bangs, of the Zephyr, who never went forth without three of his sailors in his train. One held a green-lined umbrella over his sacred head, another carried a smaU coil of smouldering rope in his hand, in case Captain Bangs might want to light a cigar, while yet a third ^^'as in charge of a japanned deed-box, supposed to contain papers of con- siderable value. Bangs and his satellites used to take up a good deal of room as they sauntered up the Battery Road ; but occasionally he would take the Zephyr to some 48 Singapore in the Olden Days mysterious cruising-ground of his own, somewhere in Dutch Borneo, and then the population of Singapore was able to breathe freely and have some elbow-room until Bangs came back again with bags of Dutch guilders, Dutch spices, and other ill-gotten gains, to the general confusion of the traffic of Singapore. It is now necessary to return for a while to the purely domestic affairs of the Northwoods. They lost their first-born in the waters of Melbourne harbour. In after days they had a son and a daughter, both of whom died of Labuan fever. About a year after the death of their third child, their fourth and last was born at Singapore, the boy of whom we have already heard in the story of the fight with the lUanun pirates. Christened John Dillon, after his father, this youngster was affectionately known as " Johnnie," not only to his parents, but soon to all and sundry. Johnnie was born in a fine, handsome house in Beach Road. It is not given to everyone to know the exact moment of his birth, but Mrs. Northwood often told her son in later days that he was born on the 15th December, 1856, exactly as the morning-gun was fired from Fort Canning — ^that is to say, at five a.m. While the preceding Northwood children had been fine strapping kiddies, poor little Johnnie was a weakling, who gave endless anxiety to his parents, and was only saved from a premature grave by his mother's constant care. However, Johnnie grew up to manhood. It would have been much better for his father's financial position in later life if his feeble existence had flickered out, but this is anticipating the course of history. After the birth of Johnnie, Mrs. Northwood remained on shore a good deal, instead of constantly accompanying her husband on his voyages as hitherto. She went with him every second or third trip wdth Master Johnnie, but the Northwoods were terribly afraid of his being carried off by the Labuan fever. On one voyage, indeed, the VOL. 1. 49 4 Sixty Years' Life and Adventure in the Far East Captain's ship was taken up the Sarawak river to Kuching, because httle Johnnie's teething was giving trouble. That brave and worthy man, Bishop Macdougal, performed some such kindly office as lancing the baby's gums, where- upon the ship dropped down the river and resumed her interrupted voyage. Johnnie, in spite of his feeble health, grew up to be a very bright and daring lad. He loved his father's ship, just as he loved the fine old rambling mansion on the Beach Road, which had formerly been the American Consulate. The house was surrounded by a great garden, full of flowering bushes and lovely trees, and there then was a charming colonnade — a playground for the youngster of which he was never tired. Johnnie was always in trouble. His father, who had great ideas of a robust life for a young child and of the necessity of "hardening him," bought a donkey for his son. Johnnie and his donkey were, like Captain Bangs and his tail of retainers, a sore trial to the Singapore public. It was Johnnie's delight to career round the esplanade on his steed, regardless of collisions with quite important people, or bruises and contusions to himself. As for the donkey, it bore a charmed life, and never turned a hair. If Caroline Northwood spoilt her son, it was otherwise with the lad's father, who had a sailor's ideas about " molly- coddling." His theory of education was very simple indeed. Lying and cow^ardice were to him scarlet sins, and he believed that if his son grew up to be truthful and manly, his feet would be set on the right road. More he did not demand of him. Johnnie was naturally a very simple and honest lad, free from the vice of lying, which is so closely allied to cowardice. But Northwood would go so far as to whip his son if he cried when he fell down and hurt himself. A few whippings taught Johnnie at a very earl}^ age the secret of suffering in silence ; and it is a valuable secret ! As the boy reached to his sixth year of age, his parents 50 Singapore in the Olden Days could no longer blink the fact that he was getting feebler and dwindling away. It was absolutely necessary to send him home. Mrs. Northwood refused point-blank to leave her husband in order to take Johnnie to England. But, she said, Matthew Small was taking his wife and family home next spring. Why should not Johnnie go with them ? So next day Northwood had a talk with his friend Matthew, and he very kindly consented to take the child to England, where the Captain had made arrangements that he should be taken care of in an old friend's family until he should be ready to go to school. John Small's store was then the one indispensable feature of life in Singapore. It seemed so refreshing to step from the heat and glare of the Square into the cool shades of John Small's spacious premises. On one side was the watch-making and jewellery department, glitter- ing with trinkets. Behind it the book department was a great attraction. There was a large section given up to Chinese and Japanese porcelains and lacquers, and always full of pretty things. There were other depart- ments for laces and ribbons ; rifles, guns and saddles for young sportsmen ; yet another for the best brands of brandy, pale ale, and various comestibles. In fact, there was always some excuse for looking in at John Small's. One met such nice people there, anyway. Nobody dreamed of paying cash for anything. Everything was put down in the bill, which was punctually sent in at the end of the month, and sometimes paid. In those days John Small's buildings had an entrance facing the sea. The sea then rolled over where CoUyer Quay and great blocks of solid buildings now stand, and John Small was able to unload cargo-boats at his own door. Northwood kept a very large account with John Small, because so many people in Labuan commissioned him to execute their orders for them, and the Samson was always wanting something or other. Northwood was a particularly VOL. I. 51 4* Sixty Years' Life and Adventure in the Far East desirable customer, because he always paid for everything he bought whether it was for his own or anybody else's account. In a secluded corner of John Small's, North- wood had a big safe, which generally contained very con- siderable sums of money, and when Small's wanted a settlement they had merely to suggest a visit to the safe and the thing was done. Originally the firm had been Banner] ee. Small and Co., the Parsee finding the money, and the Englishman the ability and energy to work the business. Banner] ee was a very agreeable kind of Parsee, who kept open house and spent a great deal of money in various ways. He was one of the few people in Singapore at the time who kept a carriage and pair. It was a gorgeous affair — a big barouche hung on Cee springs, lined with white silk, and drawn by a pair of big Calcutta horses. The syces' liveries were a blaze of colour. Nothing could match the soft complacency of Banner jee being driven round the Esplanade in his chariot. He was far too busy about other things to attend to business, which he left to Matthew Small. He had heaps of money, and was inordinately vain of his accomplishments. He devoted long hours to the study of the British poets, and being gifted with a remarkable memory he never lost a chance of spouting columns of Shakespeare, Milton, Byron, and various stray poets who need not be mentioned. He was a keen Freemason. His speeches, which were always of inordinate length whenever he got on his legs at the banquets of that mystic fraternity, were the terror of Zetland in the East. In an evil hour. Banner] ee made the acquaintance of Colonel Shendall, commanding the 99th Bombay In- vincibles, at that time stationed at Singapore. The Colonel was a fine, handsome, irresponsible soldier, through whose fingers money slipped like melted butter. The Colonel's wife had died young. Mere gossips said she had been worried into an early grave, because she had never been able to see the colour of a rupee, while all sorts of persons 52 Singapore in the Olden Days wanted to be paid. But before departing this life poor Mrs. Shendall gave birth to a daughter, who at the time of our story had grown up to be a splendid brunette. She was of the type of beauty which Singapore ladies called " bold," but it was most effective. Miss Julia Shendall was a finished coquette, who had learned a great deal of worldly wisdom from her graceless but fascinating father. Exactly how an intimacy sprang up between Colonel Shendall and Banner] ee the Parsee, it is hard to say. The Colonel found it pleasant in the first place that he was never asked to pay his bills, and then Banner] ee was such a civil chap, who knew his own place. He was rather more than surprised when one fine afternoon Banner] ee, very timidly and with an extraordinary amount of circumlo- cution, begged the honour of his presence at a little dinner which he was giving at his humble residence, picturesquely named Elysium. The Colonel was a bit nonplussed, but said he would accept the invitation. Banner] ee sent his famous barouche to bring his honoured guest from his bungalow to Elysium. The Colonel found quite a good lot of men invited to meet him ; the dinner was about perfect, the wines were really good, and Banner] ee's vast rooms were cool and comfortable. After dinnner, there was a nice game of cards on the verandah, from which the Colonel rose the winner of a considerable pile. As the Colonel drove back to his quarters in the big barouche, he thought that he had not spent such a pleasant evening for a long time. He particularly admired the agreeable way in which his Parsee host lost his money at cards. " Wish they were all like Banner] ee ! " he mused. After this, the intimacy ripened like Jonah's gourd. The lovely Miss Shendall graced Elysium with her presence if other ladies were invited, and as the fascinated Parsee offered her the use of his carriage whenever she wanted it, she took him at his word. Julia found a carriage and pair a convenient substitute for a hack-gharry, and besides, it cost nothing. She was always driving about 53 tsi Sixty Years' Life and Adventure in the Far East in Banner] ee's equipage, and if spiteful people talked about the " Shendall barouche," what did it matter to her ? And she rather liked the gay evenings at Elysium ; they were such a contrast to the dull times in her father's little bit of a bungalow at the Tanglin Barracks. True, Banner] ee rather bored her at times by reciting yards of " Lalla Rookh " and other poems at her, but this he partly made up for, by his quaint and laboriously acquired little bits of slang with which he enlivened his conversa- tion. Banner] ee set up to be a past master of the English language. If Julia had no scruples, her father had his qualms. In India, the Colonel would not condescend to associate with the whitest of white civilians unless he happened to be in the service of the H. E. I. C. As for dining with " a nigger," he would as soon have thought of saying his prayers ! However, it was only a little place like Singapore, where there was no military society, so what was the harm ? And, again, when Shendall had made a bad book at the races, and was really in a deuce of a hole, who was it but the ever- obliging Banner] ee who begged him as a favour to borrow a little money, which was nothing but a burden and anxiety to his humble friend ? It was the Colonel himself who, with his usual heedlessness, let out that it was Banner] ee who had come to the rescue at the critical moment. The idea that the Parsee had any designs on his daughter never so much as entered his mind. Colonel Shendall was, therefore, rather mystified when one fine morning he received a long letter filled with clouds of compliments, from which it appeared that Banner] ee desired an interview on private and urgent business. " What is the beggar up to ? " growled the Colonel. " If he wants to get some money out of me, what's all this rot about me and Wellington, Lord Clive, Warren Hastings, and the velvet eyes of beauty ? Hanged if I can make it out ! It may be Banner] ee's way of putting on the screw, but I've never seen it done this way before ! " 54 Singapore in the Olden Days The perplexed soldier was pacing up and down his verandah, when Banner] ee drove up in his barouche. A long and bewildering conversation took place on that little verandah, in the course of which the unhappy Colonel lost himself in the midst of very jungles of poetry and prose. Spurred by the Colonel to come to the point, the luckless Banner] ee gasped : "If the peerless and incomparable fair Julia will have me, my hand, my heart, my fortune and the barouche, they are all hers, straight from the word Go ! My intentions are strictly Honnerable, and no blooming error ! " " What ! " roared the Colonel, in a towering rage. " D'ye mean to say " But here he choked. Then he called his visitor " a damned nigger," and being a man of violence all round, both in word and deed, he seized the poor Parsee by the nape of his neck and literally kicked him downstairs ! Banner] ee crawled into his carriage, a crushed and in- sulted man, and drove home to Elysium in a sort of Oriental delirium. Next day he sent for Mr. Angus, the estate agent, to find a buyer for Elysium, and sold out his interest in the firm to Matthew Small ; while the coach and horses, which had so often whirled Julia along the Singapore roads, were disposed of at the next Saturday's auction to the highest bidder. The broken-hearted Banner] ee, having settled his affairs, embarked for his native land, where, if the stern truth must be told, a number of wives were anxiously waiting for him. He also took with him a couple of helpmeets, who were relegated to very secluded corners of Elysium what time the gallant Parsee entertained Julia and the Colonel in its marble halls. For a few days, Colonel Shendall felt a bit uncomfort- able at times concerning his summary ejectment of Banner] ee, but when it transpired that the magnanimous Parsee had no desire to trouble him about certain matters 55 Sixty Years' Life and Adventure in the Far East of account between them, still less to take a revenge on the man who kicked him downstairs, why, what could be better ? Of course, poor Julia knew nothing of the Parsee's aspirations, and congratulated her father on having got rid of the man so cheap. Two years later, Julia made a brilliant marriage in Calcutta society, in which she became the " glass of fashion and the mould of form," as Ban- ner] ee would have said. The Parsee partner having gone his ways, the now purely British firm of John Small and Co. started on a career of increasing usefulness and prosperity. To return to our story, as Small was not leaving until three months later, the Captain decided to take his son for a last cruise on the Samson. The loading of the Samson being completed, Captain Northwood, with his wife and son on board, set sail for Labuan. It was destined to be the last voyage which Master Johnnie ever made in the fine old ship, and came perilously near to being his father's last trip in that or any other vessel. The}' had not been more than two or three days at sea, when Captain Northwood found to his annoy- ance that the new crew, which he had just signed on at Singapore, was largely composed of very undesirable elements. No doubt the ghaut serang had run in some bad characters amongst his men. The ordinar}- discipline of the ship was nowhere, and she was being sailed almost anyhow. Then there was trouble over thefts and dis- reputable fights amongst the sailors. To a man like Northwood this sort of thing was in- tolerable, so the next time that trouble arose he had half a dozen of his " wasters " soundly flogged. The procedure was very simple. The culprits were made fast to the rigging by their wrists, Mhen Cassim and his two mates flogged them in turn, with a thing called a " colt " — a short length of rope, tightly wound round with twine and beeswax and terminating in a pointed end. This " colt " could hurt a good deal without causing much 56 Singapore in the Olden Days real damage to the sufferer. The necessary number of lashes having been inflicted by Cassim and his tindals, the men were cast off and sent below. Northwood hoped that such a lesson would have the desired effect. That night, when he took his watch on deck, the weather was fine, with a moderate breeze, and the Samson was doing her five or six knots. The Captain, unsuspecting and unarmed, was pacing up and dowTi his quarter-deck, when suddenly a band of native sailors made a rush at him. He promptly knocked down two of them. Then a knife flashed through the air, and he sank, bleeding profusely, on the deck. The mutineers, in a hurry to carry out the rest of their plan, which was to throw their captain overboard, had some difficulty in lift- ing such a heav>' man. But they had got him nearly to the level of the rail when Mrs. Northwood, rushing through the crowd, flung herself on her husband's body and caused him to fall back on the deck. By this time Cassim arrived on the scene, closely fol- lowed by Mr. Jenkins, who, without any further ado, fired his revolver and shot one of the mutineers dead. That shot cowed the other ruf&ans, who allowed themselves to be put in irons. The Captain was carried to his cabin, where it was discovered that his wound consisted of a great gash right across the forehead, which had cut to the bone. He carried a big scar on his forehead to the end of his days, but though there had been a considerable loss of blood, the wound in itself was not particularly dangerous. At any rate. Captain Northwood stood on his main- deck next afternoon, with a bandaged head, while Cassim and his mates were at work on the mutineers. This time they laid in with a will, and had not Captain Northwood stopped them in time they would have literally flogged the treacherous scoundrels to death. As it was, they were not worth much when they were cut down from their seizings and carried below. On the arrival of the Samson at 57 Sixty Years' Life and Adventure in the Far East Labuan they were handed over to the police, and after a brief trial were sent to work for several years in the chain- gangs on the roads of the colony. Captain Northwood never again experienced any trouble of the kind, but he had had a very narrow escape. But for the devotion of his wife he certainly would have been thrown overboard by the mutineers. The rest of the voyage passed pleasantly and quietly enough. At times " Baba Johnnie " was allowed to go with his ayah to have a talk with Cassim and his friends. Won- derful tales they were which Cassim told him, of pirates, of wizards, and of treasures guarded by fabulous monsters. The little boy took a deep interest in these stories and was never tired of hearing them. In the natural course of events the Samson sailed into Singapore harbour again, and on one sorrowful afternoon a few days later (it was in April, 1864), Johnnie Northwood was handed over to the kind care of Mr. and Mrs. Matthew Small, on board of the P. & O. steamer Emu. The boy was heartbroken at finding himself at sea without his parents, and would not at first be comforted ; but child- like it was not very long before he was running about the decks of the Emu. It pleased him greatly to explain to the Smalls' children what a vastly inferior packet the P. &■ O. liner was, compared to his father's ship the Samson. It was some twelve years later before Johnnie saw Singapore again, and during that time the place had changed as much as he had himself. The fine old houses on the Beach Road had disappeared, to make way for a foul-smelling and howling Chinese quarter. Many other notable developments were in progress, consequent on the increasing trade and importance of the place, and the opening of the Suez Canal. But the old Singapore was the best. The society of the olden days was hospitable, informal, and truly pleasant ; while the colonists all round enjoyed a good measure of 58 Singapore in the Olden Days prosperity. People then thought nothing of dropping in unexpectedly on their neighbours at dinner-time, and if they brought a friend or two with them, why, so much the better. Impromptu dances were got up at half an hour's notice, and young people got married without thinking that the equilibrium of the earth would be dis- turbed in consequence. The Singaporeans of those times had no submarine telegraph-cables or telephones, no trains, tramways, or rickshaws, and scarcely any Germans in their midst. How the benighted beings of that distant day got on without these and many other blessings which have since been lavished on Singapore it is hard to say. But somehow they seemed to enjoy life in their lovely island, and though it must seem almost incredible, these primitive people made quite a lot of money by selling British manufactures imported in British bottoms, and by shipping Straits produce to the United Kingdom under their own flag. Nous avons change tout cela I 59 CHAPTER IV CAPTAIN NORTHWOOD MAKES A VOYAGE TO SAIGON CAPTAIN SIMPSON sailed the Don Pedro on the Saigon trade with considerable success, and made the ship pay very nicely ; but the poor fellow caught a fever and died of it. By rights the command of the Don Pedro ought to have gone to Mr. Jenkins ; but when it was offered to him, Jenkins preferred to remain as chief officer of the Samson. Northwood was then got at by a certain Captain Blewitt, who had lost his ship near the Natunas, and had not since been able to get another command. There seemed to be nothing discreditable about the loss of Blewitt's ship. Misfortunes will happen to master mariners — though it may be noted that, throughout his long career as a seaman, Northwood himself never lost a ship. North- wood, however, had an expensive taste for helping lame dogs over all sorts of stiles, and as Blewitt was out of a job he gave him the command of the Don Pedro. There was something about Captain Blewitt which Northwood did not quite like, yet the new commander of the Don Pedro was a taking sort of man, a good-looking fellow of some forty years of age, well educated, and well- connected, as it afterwards appeared. There was nothing unsatisfactory about the new captain for several voyages. Indeed, he showed himself to be a smart sailor, who could make quick passages. But after a certain time. North- wood had occasion to remark that, once the Don Pedro got into harbour, the barque rode at her anchors until she threatened to " ground on her beef bones," and that the captain himself seemed to be a man much given up to his pleasures when in port. 60 Captain Northwood makes a YoysLge to Saigon So Northwood talked very seriously to Blewitt about his methods of transacting business for owner's account ; for in those days the master of a ship acted as agent and everything else. But the plausible Blewitt had always a story with which to explain away unpleasant details. One day he greatly astonished Northwood by making inquiries about the son at home, his age, etc. It appeared that one of Blewitt's uncles was a governor of Christ's Hospital. A " presentation," that is to say a gift amount- ing to a free education of the Northwood boy in the Blue Coat School, could be arranged without much difficulty, he said. Northwood had a pretty fair idea of what the Blue Coat School really was at that time. It meant a rough and hardy life for a lad, which would " knock the nonsense out of him." As for the educational side of the system, there was no reason why Johnnie should not become a " Grecian " and rise to distinction by his own unaided efforts. Northwood's unwillingness to cadge a free edu- cation for his son was easily got over by his subscribing to the funds of Christ's Hospital. The whole thing chimed in with the father's plans for Johnnie's upbringing. Mrs. Northwood, who, with a woman's insight into character, hated Captain Blewitt and all his works most heartily, protested in vain against her son being sent to the Blue Coat School. Her objections were met with remarks about " mollycoddling " and " making a man of him " and other pronouncements equally wise, until she was crushed beneath their weight, and reduced to despairing silence on the subject which was nearest her heart. So, thanks to Captain Blewitt, Johnnie Northwood was sent to the Blue Coat School. Henceforward, Blewitt did just as he pleased with the Don Pedro. Once he got the barque to Saigon, there seemed to be no end to her stay at that picturesque port. In time Northwood got to hear that the captain's dinners and dances on board the Don Pedro were the delight of a 6i Sixty Years' Life and Adventure in the Far East certain section of Saigon society. Finally, he wrote to a friend in Saigon, requesting him to interview the skipper of the Do7i Pedro, and ask him why he did not sail for Singa- pore. The answer was quite crisp. It appeared that Blewitt had not sailed for Singapore because he hadn't spent his freight yet ! Northwood sent the Samson away in charge of Mr. Jen- kins, and remained at Singapore until such time as the Don Pedro should arrive. One fine morning Captain Blewitt actually did get with his ship to Singapore, and was promptly invited by his owner to settle up his accounts. These were simple enough — practically there were none ! All the mone}^ that could be advanced on account of freights had been drawn and spent to the last dollar. So Captain Blewitt 's valuable services were no longer required. Northwood decided to sail the Don Pedro to Saigon himself, just to see how things really looked in that quarter. Blewitt went about saying that Northwood was a most ungrateful person, oblivious of services rendered to his son, and altogether a man with whom it was not safe to do business. Captain Shelback, happening to meet Northwood in the Square, put the matter to him in a dis- tinctly vulgar way : " So you've given Blewitt the dirty kick out, have yer ? " he asked. Northwood simply had to grin and bear it. The situation was one which left him at a very con- siderable loss. Whatever Shelback and one or two others might say, Blewitt knew perfectly well that he would never be able to get command of another ship as long as he remained in Singapore. The captain who would not sail until he spent his freight got to be more famous than was quite comfortable, so he took a passage on the first ship bound for Calcutta, after which nobody troubled themselves any further about him. Captain Northwood made a fast passage in the Don Pedro to Saigon, and rounding Cape St. James, slowly drifted down the snake-like curves of the mud-coloured 62 Captain Northwood makes a Voyage to Saigon river, and finally anchored in the stream off the town. Saigon in those days was a poor and squalid place, but it was already the centre of a very important rice-trade. The cathedral, the splendid palace of the Governor-General, the palatial post office, the handsome boulevards lined with fine shops and cafes, which make the modem Saigon like a little Paris built in Indo-China, were not as yet in existence. Saigon, as Northwood saw it, consisted of a few plain whitewashed buildings, a rice-mill or two, and a shabby perspective of thousands of paillotes, the huts in which the native population swarmed. The best buUdings were inhabited by the Chinese merchants. On every side, as far as the eye could see, Saigon was surrounded by endless miles of swampy paddy-fields. Nothing relieved the flat monotony of the dreary scene. The Europeans who lived in this sweltering climate all looked pallid and unhealthy. There were lots of soldiers to be seen about, but the poor fellows looked even worse than the civilians, and numbers of them found their graves in the wretched place. When Northwood started to work, he came across more results of the Blewitt system. A merchant said to him : " So you are the new skipper of the Don Pedro ! Well, I thought Blewitt was going it too strong altogether. Now I'll tell you what I'll do with you. Captain. You know perfectly well that the market-rate for Singapore is fifty cents per picul, but if you'll sign a charter-party at thirty-five cents, I'll give you five cents on the whole freight for yourself. How does that strike you ? " Northwood said it struck him very forcibly indeed ; but that as he happened to be the owner of the Don Pedro Here the merchant whistled, and remarked, d propos de bottes, that Saigon was a damned hole anyway ! How- ever, he wanted the ship, and signed the charter-party at the fuU rate. 63 Sixty Years' Life and Adventure in the Far East Northwood began to wonder how much Blewitt had really cost him from first to last, but of course that was a thing now beyond calculation. The Don Pedro loaded in a few days, and making a good run to Singapore, brought to an end a really profitable voyage. But Northwood felt that he had had enough of the Saigon trade, and as he had a very fair offer for the Don Pedro he sold the barque. Mr. Jenkins now reverted to his old position as chief officer, with a handsome bonus as an acknowledgment of his efficiency while acting as master of the Samson. So business once more went back to the old lines, and Captain Northwood sailed his favourite ship the Samson to the Borneo coast, which he knew and loved so well. 64 CHAPTER V NORTHWOOD, JUNIOR, BECOMES " SOMETHING IN THE CITY " THE education of Johnnie Northwood was a sad mixture. At the Hertford branch of the Blue Coat School, bullying, fagging and flogging went on uninterruptedly, and the two years spent by the boy in that institution were mostly spent in learning to take lickings without flinching, and in fighting bigger boys than himself. Incidentally he learned some Latin. When his mother arrived in England, she was much displeased with his surroundings and promptly transferred him to a horribly expensive and fearfully suburban " Collegiate School for Young Gentlemen." At this establishment he acquired a thorough knowledge of French, thanks to his aptitude for languages, and a liking for Moliere and other French classics. Of anything else likely to be of the slightest use to him he had not the faintest knowledge. The dream of the lad's life was to enter the Navy. But his father decided to make him a Merchant Prince. It was the mistake of Captain Northwood's life. First of all, the Captain wished his son, after leaving school, to serve for a couple of years in a shipbroker's ofiice in Liverpool ; but as the lad's mother, who was for the present residing in London, seemed to think that one office was just Uke another, and strongly objected to leaving town, a place was found for him by Mr. Leigh — the same old friend of the Captain's with whose family Johnnie had stayed when he first reached England — in the offices of Messrs. George Gray and Co., a highly re- spectable firm of tea-brokers in one of the " Lanes " of VOL. I. 65 5 Sixty Years* Life and Adventure in the Far East the City. In 1873 tea-brokers thought a great deal of themselves and made a lot of money. It was usual to pay a premium of four hundred and twenty pounds in order to get a young fellow into George Gray and Co.'s office in Rood Lane ; but, thanks to Mr. Leigh's influence, this fee was waived in Johnnie Northwood's case. Still, it was considered a very great favour that he was allowed to serve for nothing. Johnnie was equipped for his commercial duties with a new outfit, comprising a top-hat, a tail-coat, and a pair of stiff, shiny gloves, aU of which were horrid abominations to him, and thus attired was taken by Mr. Leigh into a large room fitted with a skylight, and lined with canisters of tea from top to bottom. Wide dressers provided with drawers ran round the room. In front of one of these dressers a group of men were busily employed sipping tea out of little white china bowls, which tea they promptly spat out again into a huge tin affair, shaped like a dice-box. Mr. Leigh was very cordially greeted by these gentlemen, and having introduced " Mr. Northwood " to Mr. George Gray, Mr. Wooler and Mr. Dixon, he also started sipping and spitting tea like the rest of them. After an animated discussion, he said he would buy a " break " of two hundred half -chests of Panyongs at one and ninepence three-farthings. Johnnie anxiously inquired of Mr. Leigh what he was going to do with such a lot of tea, whereupon everybody laughed. Mr. George Gray, a stout, good-looking gentleman, with a pleasant face, now assured Mr. Leigh that he would take a special interest in his young friend ; and, Leigh having taken his departure, Johnnie was left in Gray's sale room. He stood about uncomfortably, feehng a guy in his new clothes, until Mr. Wooler peremptorily ordered him to wash up some pots and cups. " What ? " Johnnie ejaculated in blank amazement. But Mr. Wooler put a tray of pots and cups in his hands and told him to wash them at the sink. The boy did as he was ordered, broke the handle of a 66 Northwood Junior becomes "Somethings in the City" pot, chipped two cups, and brought the tray back to Mr. Wooler, who seemed much put out because some of the old tea-leaves had been left sticking to the crockery. " You'll never make a tea-taster until you learn to wash pots and cups ! " he growled. He took the tray back to the sink himself, and washed and polished them until they shone again. Then he put his beloved pots and cups on a dresser and started in again at his old game of sipping and spitting tea. It all seemed very strange to Johnnie, who was greatly surprised to see a lot of grown-up men amusing themselves with such a childish and messy occupation. Presently Mr. George Gray shouted to him : " Put the kettle on the fire." Johnnie obediently picked up a small copper kettle, which had a marble inside to prevent " fur- ring," and put it on a flaming gas-ring. In five minutes Mr. Gray said : " Bring me the kettle." As Johnnie picked the kettle off the gas-ring, the bottom of the thing dropped out, and a red-hot marble rolling up against Mr. Gray's boot made that gentleman skip. " WeU, I'm blest ! D'ye mean to say you never put any water in the kettle ? " ejaculated Gray. No, it had never occurred to Johnnie to do any such thing ; he had never boiled kettles before. " He's broken a pot and chipped two cups already," growled Wooler, as he picked up the ruined kettle. Mr. Dixon, for his part, calmly expressed the opinion that Northwood was a nice young man, but that he would compel George Gray and Co. to close their doors before the week was out. At one o'clock Johnnie was told he might go to lunch, and that the " Oriental " across the way was as good a place as any other. So he went to the " Oriental," and greatly enjoyed a steak and potatoes, washed down with half a pint of bitter. It seemed to him the only sensible business of the day. During the afternoon he cleaned some more pots and VOL. I. 67 5* Sixty Years' Life and Adventure in the Far East cups, and at six p.m. walked across London Bridge to catch his train. His mother was overjoyed to see him back safely, and had prepared a lovely Httle dinner for him in honour of his first day's career as a business man. She was now quite sure that her son had done with all stupid ideas of being a soldier or a sailor, and was on his road to success and wealth. She was more than surprised, however, at his revelations concerning his first day's work in the City. In Singapore, she said, merchants made fortunes in ship- ping thousands of tons of gambler and pepper and things, but Chinese compradores and coolies handled the actual stuff, which was rarely so much as seen by the merchants themselves. They sat in large offices, where they wrote clever letters, and made up accounts in large books. That was how money was made ! There was Mr. Jasper Mackenzie, of the famous firm of Brownlow and Co., who made a fortune before he was thirty, and who was now a Member of Council and so rich that he actually did not know what to do with all his money. As for Mr. Brown- low himself, now managing the London house, he began life as a poor boy in a shop, and now he could only manage to keep himself from becoming indecently wealthy by giving away to charities all that he made over three hundred thousand pounds per annum. Both Brownlow and Jasper Mackenzie were celebrated for writing clever letters, and being awfully smart at accounts. She would speak to Mr. Leigh about it at once. Washing pots and cups indeed ! Next day Johnnie was sent round with a bear-leader, in the shape of Mr. Leslie, to deliver samples to different dealers. The samples were neatly put up in paper packets, inscribed with cabalistic heart- and diamond-shaped designs with numbers, and weighed a few pounds. These were put in a coarse blue bag, which Johnnie had to sling over his shoulder as he tramped with Mr. Leslie to all sorts of different tea-dealers' offices. Young Leslie was the son of a wealthy hop-grower in 68 Northwood Junior becomes "Something in the City" Kent, who had paid four hundred guineas to get his boy into George Gray and Co.'s office, and being senior in its service by a couple of months, made Johnnie carry the bag. The two young fellows had lunch together and soon became excellent friends. During the day Johnnie slipped round to see Mr. Leigh, and astonished him by urgently requesting that he might be allowed to wear a cap instead of the top-hat, which hurt his head. Mr. Leigh represented that such a thing was impossible, because tea-brokers were gentlemen, and had to dress accordingly. Johnnie retorted that he did not know that " pot -washers " and errand-boys were gentle- men, and gave vent to alarming threats about going to sea. Mr. Leigh very kindly pacified him as best he could, and said he would try to have his duties altered. That evening he and Mrs. Northwood had a long conversation about her son. Leigh pointed out that the Sale Room was the executive branch of the business, and the most highly esteemed department. Still, as Johnnie was not actually going into the tea-trade, it might be better to get him transferred to the counting house. About this there was no difficulty. Mr. Gray was always glad to have a vacancy in the sale room worth four hundred guineas to him, while Mr. Wooler hailed Johnnie's departure with indecent exultation. Johnnie was promptly sent into the counting house, a dingy sort of place, under the charge of an elderly and morose person named Jones, who had half a dozen clerks in his department. The whole lot of them spent their time in writing things in big books and on sheets of paper. East by, the senior clerk, tossed over to Johnnie a pile of printed documents, which he discovered were weight -notes relating to certain quantities of tea stored at Hay's Wharf. Blank spaces were left at the bottom of the weight -notes to be filled in with the price and total cost of so many pounds of tea, less so much discount at a given rate. 69 Sixty Years' Life and Adventure in the Far East Johnnie read one or two of the documents very carefully without in the least understanding their purport. Eastby then " cast out " a few of these weight -notes with amazing rapidity, and explained that that was how the thing was done. Johnnie tried very hard to tackle his problem, but produced no other result than some unseemly blots on the top weight -note, and a scramble of very untidy figures on a sheet of foolscap. When Mr. Jones himself took his new assistant in hand, he discovered that he was quite unable to calculate an easy sum ; also, that he wrote a hand which nobody but himself could read. Mr. Jones thereon had something to say about rich men's sons being a useless lot, and the curse of George Gray and Co. So this was the result of Johnnie's education when it was put to its first practical test ! His seemed to be an abso- lutely hopeless case. After a time he was utilized to take round cheques, buy postage stamps, draw tea-warrants from the bank, and clear odd lots of tea at the customs in cases when the duty to be paid amounted to a few shillings. At best he was an unprofitable servant even on no pay, and his cool impudence failed to recommend him either to Mr. Jones or to Mr. Chandler, the junior partner in George Gray and Co. Chandler was a very precise and natty gentleman, to whom young Northwood's free manners were a great offence. A few months after he had joined, Johnnie got skylarking with young Leslie and flung the petty cash book at his head. The missile missed Leslie and went crashing through a glass door into the partners' room, where it fell on Chandler's desk amidst a lot of splintered glass. Chandler, who was dreadfully upset by this unseemly occurrence, sent for Johimie and summarily dismissed him on the spot. Johnnie's feelings on " getting the sack " were varied, but, on the whole, he was glad. He had no taste for a business life, and was thankful that his mercantile career 70 Northwood Junior becomes "Something in the City" had come to a close. He went round, of course, to tell Mr, Leigh of his dismissal, only to find that his wise and kind friend took a very different view of the matter. Dis- missal was a disgraceful thing, which would grieve his father and mother very much. Somehow the matter would have to be arranged. So Mr. Leigh went off to see George Gray. It was observed that he bought another " break " of tea, which happened to be Oolongs this time, but in the end Johnnie got reinstated after being severely reprimanded. As time went on, Johnnie got somewhat ashamed of his inefficiency, and said as much to Mr. Leigh, who, with his inexhaustible good nature, took the lad in hand, and in the course of a few private lessons showed him how to overcome the simple mystery of calculating weight -notes, and other details of office work. Great was the astonish- ment of East by when one fine morning Johnnie resolutely tackled a pile of weight -notes, and having cast them out correctly, handed them over to him. Mr. Jones was some- what sour over this unexpected display of business ability, and said something about a young humbug who could work fast enough if he chose to do so. Johnnie's home-life at this time was exceedingly happy. His love for his mother dominated everything else, and the delightful family circle of the Leighs was always open to the Northwoods. If he was dull about business, he took a precocious interest in everything else, and devoured books and publications of every kind with voracity. Parti- cularly did he keep up his studies in French, which turned out to be in after life not merely an useful, but an indis- pensable acquisition. Johnnie, having entered George Gray's service at the commencement of the year, was called into the partners' room at Christmas-time and handed a cheque for five poimds, with the gracious remark that it was a vast deal more than he was worth to the firm. Johnnie was over- joyed, however, and having got East by to give him five 71 Sixty Years' Life and Adventure in the Far East sovereigns for his cheque, hurried off to a well-known shop, where he invested the bulk of the money in an elaborate, but futile wTiting-desk, with mother-of-pearl fittings and inlayings, which he carried home with him. He had always had an abundance of pocket-money, but out of the first five pounds actually earned by him his most urgent idea was to buy a present for his mother. Had he presented her with a golden casket fuU of the most precious jewels she could not have been more delighted. She nearly hugged him to death, and wrote a long letter to her husband to explain what a splendid boy their son really was. The succeeding Christmas, Johnnie, who was actually becoming of some use at No. loi. Rood Lane, was once more called into the partners' room, and handed a cheque for ten pounds, without any remarks from either Mr. Gray or Mr. Chandler, other than the compliments of the season. It is true, however, that Mr. Dixon, who happened to be present at the time, muttered that he always knew that young Northwood would ultimately ruin George Gray and Co., and that he was on the eve of accomplishing his object. But Johnnie was now about finished with George Gray and Co. Captain Northwood was on his way to England to take his wife and son back to Singapore, and Johnnie was not to go back to loi. Rood Lane after the 31st December. At last one fine morning. Captain Northwood arrived in the London Docks on board the Blue Funnel steamer Agamemnon. Johnnie scrambled on board the vessel directly the gangway was made fast, and had no difficulty in picking out the towering form of his father, although he had not seen him for so many years. Both were delighted with each other. Johnnie thought his father the grandest man he had ever beheld, while the captain was evidently proud of his son, who was, indeed, a fine- grown lad, with a bright, intelligent face. There was a 72 '.5a. 'i-^ LPa/i^^