\ OF THE U TICONDEROGA." SAN FRANCISCO : Francis, Valentine & Co., Printers and Engravers, 517 Clay St. 1880. to A » ^^^ ^Z? i>UA/*Ud£&. i/N« J University of California • Berkeley The Peter and Rosell Harvey Memorial Fund THE PILGRIMAGE OF THE TICONDEROGA BY GEORGE L. ALLEN. As a parting agony, I respectfully dedi- cate this book to my fellow - pilgrims. G. L. A. PREFACE- The following pages have been written with the sole' desire that at some future time they may bring to the memory of those who participated in the memorable cruise of the " Ticonderoga" some of the most pleasing incidents connected with it. To originality I lay no claim, for wherever I could steal there have I stolen. I have pilfered alike from ally high or low — yea, from Ingersoll to Beecher. To critics I have but to say " wade in;" if by so doing you can gain notoriety, you will attain more than was ever dreamed of by THE AUTHOR, ) INDEX. PAGE, CHAPTER I.— Outward Bound ...» 1 t* II.— Maderia . 5 " III. — Sierra Leone . . . > 9 ** IV.— Monrovia ..... 13 " V. — Down the Coast .... 19 ii VI.— St. Helena 28 " VII.— Cape Town ..... 32 II VIH.— East Coast of Africa. .... 34 » IX.— Searching for Commerce among the Arabs 37 « X.— Bombay ..... 43 " XL— Singapore ..... 48 M XII.— Hong Kong ..... 60 " XIII. — Japan ..... 52 M XIV.— Nagasaki 5? " XV.— The Japs ..... 60 " XVI.— Across the Pacific . ... . 67 II XVII. — Honolulu 70 (< XVIII. End Ho 75 Ports visited and distance run during cruise . 73 Description of the Ticonderoga ..... 81 Muster Roll ....... 82 Death's Muster Roll ...... 85 THE PILGRIMAGE of the TICONDEROGA. CHAPTER I. OUTWARD BOUND. " For the advancement of American commerce." Upon taking up the evening paper, my attention was attracted by the above announcement, under which heading it went on to state that the U. S. S. " Ticonderoga," now fitting- out at Portsmouth, New Hampshire, was about to set out on a cruise of about two years' duration, during which time she would visit all the ports of the world, known and unknown, for the purpose of encouraging and promoting our commercial intercourse with other nations. As it was there represented, this cruise was to annihi- late the tramp, revive all our industries, make the United States the great emporium of the world — one immense coffer, into which all nations would pour their wealth, and make the year 1878 ever memorable in the annals of American history. This glowing account of the country's future interested me. For the past month I had been working hard for " Butler and Reform," consequently, I had the country's prosperity at heart. I could, though faintly, imagine this great future. I could picture Boston ; her harbor a forest of masts, her wharves crowded, I could hear a £ THE PILGRIMAGE Babel of strange voices, hum of mills and factories. I could see the capitalist, who yesterday persecuted the tramp, to-day bowing before him and imploring him for his labor. But then came the thought, how is this great revolution to be brought about % Will it not require the risk and, perhaps, the lives of many brave men 1 Alas, yes ; and can I sit here and silently await its coming, without an effort 1 No. To his country every man owes a duty. I saw mine, and was at once resolved to do it. To-morrow I would cast the police and ninety cents per day to the winds, and seek a birth on the " Ticonderoga," and nobly assist in relieving the treasury of the burdens heaped upon it by a horde of cowardly tax-payers. The first morning train found me wending my way towards Portsmouth. On my arrival I lost no time in gaining the navy yard, where I found the " Ticonderoga " far ad- vanced towards completion. It is needless to say that my application met with a success worthy of the cause. On November 4th, 1878, the "Ticonderoga" was placed in commission under the command of Commander B. J. Cromwell, IT. S. N. In a few days, all the necessary preparations being completed, we dropped down the stream to await favorable weather. On the 20th, we sailed for Norfolk, Virginia. The day was fine, and a speedy run was anticipated, but before nightfall we dis- covered how " frail are human hopes and expectations," for before that time it was blowing a gale. . We sought Gloucester, Massachusetts, for shelter, but only remained a short time, when we again went forth to battle with the storm. Here, what came very nearly being a serious accident, befell us : On leaving the harbor we ran ashore, through the carelessness of the pilot it was said, and I doubt it not, for he is one of those who have grown care- OF THE TICONDEROGA. O less in office, but our commander proved himself equal to the occasion and we were soon again safely afloat. We had learned, and fortunately at a very early stage of the cruise, the valuable lesson, that success was not to be attained by the overland route. The remainder of the passage was so rough that we did not arrive at Norfolk until the 26th. Our accident necessitated our going upon the dry dock. As we received no serious injury, our stay was short, and on the 5th of December we dropped down to Hampton Roads, there to await the arrival of Commodore Shufeldt, who was to take charge of the expedition. The morning boat of the 7th from Washington which was expected to bring Commodore Shufeldt was eagerly watched for by all. Hardly had she been secured to the wharf when our small boat was seen to shove off bearing a stranger, and soon the news spread through the ship that the Commodore had come. Everything was at fever heat. We knew that at last our day of depart- ure had come. At 8 a. m. his broad blue pennant was hoisted at the main, and by 10 -o'clock we were steaming out of the Roads. The wind, that in the morning was blowing fresh from the Northwest, had now gone down, until there was hardly sufficient to cause a ripple upon the water. Our pilot left us about 2 p. m., and as he went over the side many an eager glance was cast after him ; his leaving seemed like severing the last link between ourselves and home. We knew now that all communication was cut off, at least, for a month. The sea around Cape Henry was perfectly smooth, and to one unacquainted with its history, appeared as if its waters could be traversed for ever with impunity ; but when the sea is commanded to offer "up her dead, what a 4 THE PILGRIMAGE dreadful offering will this place make ; how many who have anticipated the warm welcome of friends on the morrow, through the treacherous winds and tides, have awoke to find eternity. What a contrast it presents to the night where, only a few miles below, the " Huron " met her sad fate. Towards evening, the wind again began to freshen, and soon the " Ticonderoga," in addition to her steam, was under a cloud of sail plowing her way toward Maderia, at the rate of ten knots per hour. Our passage across was accomplished in seventeen days, which, taking the weather into consideration (almost a continuation of gales), was a moderately fair one. Ov THE TICONDEItOGA. CHAPTER II. MADERIA. Hardly had the clock of the citadel proclaimed the hour of midnight when the whole city seemed to burst forth into life. The booming of cannon, ringing of bells, pro- cessions and music, proclaimed the natal day of the " King of Men" — that Christmas had come. On board, the day was spent as pleasantly as circumstances would permit, as arriving late on the previous evening rendered our resources but very limited, and, though many missed the " good cheer " of Christmas at home, but few com- plained. Being myself a firm believer in all the Christ- mas virtues, of which self-denial is not the least, I will live in hopes that my gastronomic loss of that day may prove a future spiritual gain. As soon as convenient I paid a visit to the shore. As so much has been written about Madeira, it would be a waste of time for me to attempt to further describe it. Being accompanied on my visit by a friend, who wishing to play the part of the "American Abroad," which in his opinion could not be done with any degree of propriety, without paying a visit to the chapel on the top of a mountain. After a little persuasion, I consented to accompany him. Horses were procured, and the ascent commenced. The ride up was delightful, and I enjoyed it ; for several days I could not sit down without think- ing of it. 6 THE PILGRIMAGE At the chapel we dismounted and turned the horses over to the " Guide," who was to take them back to the city. He was a most excellent fellow, and very profuse in his attentions to our wants. After bidding him an affec- tionate farewell, he wished to know if the " Seniors " would not present him with a small donation, as he was entirely exhausted from walking up the hill, and wished to get a glass of wine to revive and strengthen him for the downward trip. "We politely informed him that we could take no notice of his request unless accompanied by medical advice, as we were opposed to the use of all intoxicating liquors. He pleaded again and again, even with tears. He informed us that he had a wife and eight children, an aged father and mother, all depending upon him for support ; that in all probability if he undertook the descent in his present weakened condition, he might be carried to a bed of sickness. We tendered the poor man our heartfelt sympathies, explain- ing to him, that though his cross was truly a heavy one, he should endeavor to meekly and uncomplainingly bear it, and that if he done so, the great spiritual harvest he would reap hereafter. I should have liked to assist this poor man had the request been made for any other purpose ; no doubt I would have done so. We found no difficulty in gaining admittance to the chapel, one of the Father's kindly volunteering to act as escort, and who took great pains to exhibit everything of interest. After becoming thoroughly tired of gazing upon the portraits of a multitude of saints of all sizes, ages and sexes, we were about to take our departure, when my attention was attracted by the charity box, which, by the way, is so conspicuously placed, that it is OK THE TI00NDEROGA. / almost impossible for a visitor to make his exit without noticing it. I was about to deposit a Yankee half-dollar, when remembering the strictness of those old churches in some matters, I thought it best to first request permis- sion. The Father had noticed my hesitation, and divined its cause, for before I had time to speak, he had nodded his assent, so I invested at forty-fold per cent. Before allowing us to depart, he bestowed hisblessing; this of course was not on account of our munificence, for this venerable prelate was a good man — one of true inward- ness — his avoirdupois was over two hundred, and above fifty cents. The descent was accomplished by means of sleighs, which run over those small and evenly laid pebbles with which the streets are paved, as smoothly as if they were ice. On again arriving in the city, I wished to engage a barouche, a vehicle, in shape between a police van and a hearse, mounted on runners, and drawn by oxen. To this my friend objected, saying that he was an '"American, and no foreigner was going to laugh at him driving around the street in a bull team." Persuasion was useless, he being fully determined that his dignity should not be compromised, so there was nothing left but to retrace our steps and return to the ship. Here, it might be said, our labors began, as everything was done to promote commercial intercourse by extensive purchases of " necessaries." Some say they were made on account of cheapness, but this I denounce as a base slander, for I feel they were made from purely patriotic motives. On December 30th we sailed for Sierra Leone. It 8 THE PILGRIMAGE was the intention on leaving to have stopped at Teneriffe, but wind and weather being favorable, it was thought advisable to continue on our journey. On our way, we sighted its peak rising 12,300 feet above the level of the sea and said to be visible at a distance of one hundred miles. This I give for what it is worth. I only know that we were not that distance off when we sighted it, but it might have been that the day was not sufficiently clear. I have no doubt but that some good man, by the aid of that article which "removeth mountains" has seen it at the above distance. During the whole passage we were blessed with beau- tiful weather, and on the 5th of January arrived at Porto Grande, where we remained only sufficient time to replenish our bunkers, sailing on the 8th for Porto Praya, where we arrived on the 9th, again sailing on the following evening* OF THE T1CONDEKOGA. CHAPTER III. SIERRA LEONE. After a passage of live days, we arrived, January 15th, at the English colony of Sierra Leone. Here we found one French and two English men-of-war, besides a num- ber of merchantmen, among which was a solitary Ameri- can, who by some mischance had strayed from the flock. After the regular exchange of salutes, the Commodore, accompanied by his staff, paid an official visit to the shore, where, on account of rank, and also being a special arbi- trator in the Anglo-Liberian boundary question, all mili- tary and civic honors were paid him. At the landing he was received by H. B. M's army, viz., two officers (white), seven soldiers (colored), and a string band (mixed). When he landed the officers bowed, soldiers presented arms, while the band played " Tommy make room for your aunty." It was quite a creditable reception, and well enjoyed by the horde of native mud-larks who has assem- bled to witness it. Freetown is populated by blacks, nearly all the offices are filled by them, and they miss but few opportunities of letting a white man know their power. The native tribes here are the Timmanee and Soo-Soo, who live principally by trading with the merchants of Freetown, bringing in cattle, ground-nuts, fruit, etc., and taking in exchange such articles as they may require ; those living on the sea coast do some fishing, but it is 10 THE PILGRIMAGE more a matter of necessity than a business. A man goes out with his canoe, drops his line, making one end fast to his big toe ; he then lies down and awaits a bite. If anything hooks on sufficiently large to give him pain from pulling on the toe, he hauls him in, returns home, gorges himself with it, and then lies down and sleeps un- til he is again hungry. If he should be fortunate, and make a big haul, he goes to the town and exchanges them for rum, and then enjoys, in addition to his " gorge," a big drunk, and is doubly envied by his neighbors, for among them drunkenness is considered rather an accom- plishment than a fault. It is quite common to hear the women with pride relating to one another the different stages of intoxication in which their husbands returned the previous evening. The woman whose husband hap- pened to be brought home on a shutter is truly envied. Among them you can procure a preventive or cure for all diseases and accidents. These Fetich, unlike Yankee patent medicines, are not warranted to cure all the ail- ments of the human family. One insures the possessor against the poisonous bites of reptiles. Another against insects, and so on. One herb, if carried about the person, defies the power of his Satanic Majesty. I was about to make an extensive purchase of this article, but discovered there was a prayer which on the approach of danger had to be repeated in the native tongue or the herb lost its efficacy. Upon consideration, I found the probability of my ever becoming a success at Soo-Soo praying too distant to entertain any further idea of the herb investment. Their favorite amusement is dancing, and their favor- ite dance it the " Palamarnih." This I was informed was introduced by the Europeans, and is of Celtic origin, OF THE T1C0NDER0GA. 11 'being formerly known as the " Conomarra " dance, but in this there seems to be a division of opinion. The leader in the dance is dressed in the most fantastic manner, and is styled the " devil," and makes a most orthodox impersonation of his Majesty. He twists and writhes his body and features into every possible shape, while the others imitate as far as possible these contor- tions, keeping time to tire discordant clanging of a vile substitute for music, executed by a more vile substitute for musicians. As the dance progresses the music becomes louder while the dancers get into a perfect frenzy, and their already scanty wardrobe becomes piece by piece beauti- fully less. The dance partakes a good deal of the can-can, and if less immoral, it, at the finish, leaves less to the imagination. Any one who is willing to purchase amuse- ment at the expense of his olfactory, I by all means recommend to him the u Palmarrah," The weather being overbearingly warm, and laying here nearly a month, began to tell on our patience. A certain amount of discontent began to make itself visible through the ship, and a letter addressed to the New York Graphic, which I happened accidently to pick up, only tended to make things worse. It read as follows ; " Dear Graphic : — I have so far kept you posted as to the movements of the ship, I will now let you into the secret, but don't give it away. As you already know, this expedition is supposed to be for the advancement of American commerce, and no doubt regular reports will be forwarded to show the extent of our labor, so as to keep the people hoodwinked, but our actual mission is a ■ Fenian ' one. We are now looking for some convenient 12 THE PILGRIMAGE place where we can get a foothold on the coast ; then we will penetrate into the interior as far as the head waters of the Nile, where we will build boats and float our munitions of war down to the sea, cross over to Russia, which we will cross, then re-embark for Spitzbergen, which place will be the base of operation. This can be done easily, and without the knowledge of the British Government. So be not surprised when the news is flashed over the wires, ' Ireland is free.' Yours, etc," The above I give for what it is worth, and patiently await events. * On February 18-th we took our departure for Mon- rovia, stopping on the way at Sulmah and Cape Mount, and arriving at Monrovia on the 21st. OF THE TICONDEaOGA. 13 CHAPTER IV. MONROVIA. This is the capital of the Liberian Republic, and con- tains about 600 inhabitants, nearly all of whom are those who have emigrated from the United States, or their children. They carry on all the affairs of the State, and possess about all the intelligence of the place. Those among them who have any energy whatsoever, enter the political arena; for, to be President, a Senator, or the head of a department, being their whole ambition. When "Congress" meets there is always an immense amount of business on hand. A stranger visiting one of their sessions might easily imagine them to be a first-rate power. Large amounts of money have to be yearly appropriated for the support of the army and navy, postal and telegraph routes to be kept up, etc. That these things as yet have no existence among them, and even if they did, the money required for their support would have to be taken from the already empty coffers of the State, are facts of too insignificant a nature to effect the deliberations of those ebony Senators. Yet they are in a manner ever vigilant, there being no such a thing as "pushing a bill;" the most important measure will at times occupy days of debate, as no Hon. Senator ever misses an opportunity of displaying his oratorical or argumentative abilities. As Civil Service reformers, the great Republic of the West might take a valuable lesson. 14 THE I'lLG III MAGE The following is an advertisement which appeared in the official organ of the State : "WANTED!— A young man as clerk in the State Department. The applicant must be of good moral char- acter, be able to write a fair, legible hand; well up in figures; not addicted to the use of intoxicating liquors, and be willing to enter upon the duties of his office at once. Apply to G. B. Gardner, Sac. of State." Here the Treasury is always empty ; the victors care not for the spoils, and Liberia is proud of the fact that her Congressmen are officially honest. The people are divided into about three classes; those who are in office, those who are seeking office, and the remainder preach- ing. The first, to work, is beneath their dignity ; the second have no time to work, and the third, their minds are continually pre-occupied with things which are not of this earth. Then comes the natives; well, they won't work, so the probability of her exchequer being improved is but distant. About the only labor I saw performed was by the "chain gang," which was composed of natives, sentenced for petty offences, and made to work on the public streets. The " gang " was out in charge of a jailor, who was just setting them to work to remove some obstruc- tion from the street. On my return a short time after- wards, I found the jailor reclining under a palm tree fast asleep, and his prisoners chained in twos, scattered around enjoying their afternoon nap. Why are they chained together or at all] I asked a jailor. He had no further knowledge than it was the law. Certainly it is not to keep them from running away, for that feat would OF THE ffCXWDEROGA. 15 require some exertion on their part, the unlikelihood of which is sufficient to render the precaution unnecessary. • The Monrovians make great professions of religion, and have carried them so far as to prohibit, by law, the natives from performing many of their ancient religious rites. Though a believer in religious freedom, I can pardon much on account of their enthusiasm to spread the true faith. A striking example of their sincerity came under my notice. I paid a visit to the shore on Sunday. The day being very warm, and I, not being altogether a true be- liever iu the efficacy of cold water as an antidote, sought something stronger. I made several inquiries as to where the "necessary" could be procured, and from all received but one answer; that it was "de Lord's day." I was about giving up in despair, when fortune favored me in the person of a Mr. W., who, after first making the above answer, added, that as we were Americans and strangers, he would oblige us, but under no other circum- stances would he so far transgress the laws of his creed and country. This last assertion I was inclined to doubt, but being afterwards informed that Mr. W. was a very upright man and an Elder of the church, my mind was relieved. To Kroo Town, which is just outside of Monrovia, 1 paid a visit, where I found very neat and comfortable looking huts erected with taste, and the village laid out in streets. At first I was rather surprised to discover such an air of cleanliness about the place, but this I after- wards accounted for from the fact that it takes such a large amount of dirt to fit out the person of a native, that there is none left to waste upon their household or streets. 16 THE PILGRIMAGE A crowd at the door of one of the huts attracted my attention. Upon entering I found that one of the natives had been guilty of a petty theft. An officer of the law was there to make an arrest, unless the accused was willing to pay for the article, expense of warrant, etc., amounting in all to about fifty cents. The poor man looked truly penitent. He had the appearance of one who at least tried to do right. His hut was clean and comfortable ; the only ornament that graced the walls, was a picture cut from one of the pages of Harper's Weekly — a portrait of W. M. Tweed in Island uniform. When I thought how easily those poor, untutored Africans were influenced by associations, I pitied him and paid his indebtedness. He came to me a short time afterwards, and to show me that he was not ungrateful, wanted to sell me a bottle of gin for a dollar. This offer I refused. Finally, as a further proof of his grati- tude, he agreed to give it for seventy-five cents and throw one of his wives into the bargain. This kindness I was also forced to decline. The village being directly under the eye of the Monro- vians, no pains are spared to bring the natives within the pale of the church. Many of them have already given up their old and unpronounceable tribe names and taken upon themselves such truly scriptural ones as Six- teen-string- Jack, John Morrisey, Seven up, High-low- Jack, Old Sledge, Keno, Whisky Poker, etc. Among the juvenile class can also be found evidences of decided improvement. In questioning one, you find he can repeat the ten commandments as readily as a Yankee Sunday School boy, and on the other hand, you will find he can lie, swear or steal with equal ease, plainly showing that the untiring labors of the Missionary has not been in OF THE TICONDEROGA. 17 vain, and that civilization is making mighty strides in Africa. While here, it came to our knowledge that the Liberian Government had found much trouble in collecting their revenue at Tabou, which place is situated on the southern boundary of the Republic. At different times they had sent down an armed force in hopes of correcting the evil, but so far without any definite results. ISTow, as this unpaid revenue materially affected the commercial inter- ests of the United States, it was plainly our duty to see them paid up. JSTo difficulty was anticipated ; the mere thought of one of those black savages having the audacity to question a mandate emanating from one duly clothed with power by the great United States, was too ridicu- lous to be entertained. All we had to do was to issue the order for them to pay, which would be sufficient ; so on March the 8th we anchored off Tabou. On the fol- lowing day King " Yumlah," accompanied by his Cabinet, came on board to know our mission. On being informed, he politely gave us to understand that he was capable of conducting his own affairs, and that he would stand no foreign interference. An attempt was made to compromise matters, but it was useless. He was then informed that if he still persisted in refusing to comply with our demands, we would be compelled to use force ; this caused a " Cabinet consultation," their unani- mous conclusion being, " No surrender ;" the King mak- ing known their decision,- said : "In the cause of humanity, and that a war might be averted, which he knew would be a long and bloody one, he would endeavor to come to some conciliatory understanding." As he approached, his advisers' anxiety was at fever heat, for with them, perhaps, rested the future of our country, 18 THE PILGRIMAGE and as he slowly raised that index diget to his nasal organ, and uttered those ominous number, "4 — 11 — 44, '' not a whisper could be heard nor can pen describe our humiliation as each slowly answered, " Keno, on the top row." We knew now that the jig was up ; that the nigger wouldn't scare ; so we were forced to retrace our steps, with the American flag trailing in the dust and American commerce still suffering. On our return, we stopped a few days at Cape Palmas, arriving at Monrovia on the 19th, leaving again on the 23d for Cape Mount and Sulymah, where the Anglo-Li- berian commission was in session. Our bunkers being low, we left for Sierra Leone, where we replenished them and again returned to Sulymah. A few days afterwards, the Joint Commission (after taking an immense amount of evidence,) came to the conclusion that the Northern boundary of the Republic of Liberia was " one of them things that no man can find out," and adjourned. Commodore Shufeldt was to have acted as special arbitrator in the case, but the English Commissioners, either for want of confidence in the superior judgment of the Commodore, or in the strength of their own case, objected to him acting ; so our mission being ended, we returned again to Monrovia. OF THE TICONDEROGA. 19 CHAPTER V. DOWN THE COAST. After putting our mail on board of an American bark which was bound for the United States — for, though the assertion may seem incredible, we saw no less than three American vessels at this place and one at Sierra Leone, making four in all — we took our leave of Liberia, April 29th, for a cruise down the coast, and after a run of eight days arrived at Fernando Po, an island belonging to Spain. During the Cuban rebellion prisoners were sent here ; the Spaniards, either from feelings of humanity or through fear of the opinions of other nations, did not treat them as rebels found in arms against the supreme authority of the State, and take upon themselves the re- sponsibility of their deaths by decently executing them at home, but sent them out here, where the fever soon car- ried them off. Out of several thousand sent here, but few escaped. The native tribe here is the Bubis, who hold an invet- erate hatred for anything pertaining to civilization. They are said to be a quiet and inoffensive people. But little is known of their habits further than is learned by their coming to trade at Clarence, the capital of the island. The Bubis women are said to be the most ugly and most virtuous on the coast, the crime of adultery (the greatest in their code) being among them severely punished. For the first offense, the male offender loses his left hand, and 20 THE PILGRIMAGE for the second, his right. Either the crime is very rare, or the law is not rigidly enforced, for in " calling their hands " I always found they " held a pair." Here we found some coal belonging to the American Government that had been left on the island during our little unpleasantness, from which we filled, and proceeded on our way to the Gaboon River, arriving at Libreville, a French settlement, on the 16th. Here, as at other set- tlements, the laws of the country to which they belong are enforced only in the immediate vicinity of the post, outside of which the natives are governed by their own code, which is generally of a very primitive nature. The tribe here is the " Mpongwis," who are allowed to be the most accomplished one on the coast. A considerable oil trade is carried on, all of which has to pass through the hands of the " Mpongwi," he acting as middleman between the Bush tribe and the Europeans in the barter, always making a liberal percentage for himself, but which is soon wasted in trade rum. They are first-class rogues, but prefer robbing on purely "business principles" rather than by common pilfering. The greatest indignity that a Mpongwi can suffer is for another man to run away with his wife. In such a case he does not harness his fleetest horse and give chase, nor does he send out detectives on their track, but quietly takes down his gun, and goes out and shoots the first man he meets, and as an excuse merely states that he has done so because some man has run away with his wife. The friends of the murdered man do not seek to revenge his death on his murderer, for in their opinion he has com- mitted no crime, he having only conformed with the laws of the tribe ; they go out and " drop " the first man they meet belonging to an adjoining village. This goes on un- OF THE TICONDEROGA. 21 til they are all on their guard, then the affair is settled by a general palaver, the chief of the tribe having the last man killed demanding from the tribe to which the man belongs who has lost his wife the payment of a cer- tain amount in rum, cattle or slaves. In some cases of theft, a similar mode of " passing it along the line " is resorted to. In case of a person being committed of theft, he is either flogged or made a slave, and in some cases, both. After a stay here of four days, we left, May 20th, for the Congo River, stopping at Mayumba and Kabenda on our way (the latter place was the principal slave mart on the coast before its suppression), arriving at the German settlement of Banana on the 27th. At the Congo is the Mussarongo tribe, who bear the reputation of being the most hardened set of piratical villains on the coast, among whom lying and stealing, if not considered a virtue, is at least considered no fault. While here, we sent an expedition up the river for the purpose of making a correct survey of it as far as naviga- ble and amending our trading treaty with the natives. They succeeded in ascending the river about fifty miles, when the launch broke down and had to be towed back to the ship. As the repairs required would occupy too great a time, the survey was abandoned, and on June 2d we left for St. Paul de Loando, the capital of Angola, a penal colony belonging to Portugal. That country, hav- ing abolished capital punishment, has discovered in the malarial fevers of Angola an ample substitute for the halter. The Portuguese, having discovered that the negro is more easily convinced by the means of the lash than by words, have, by means of the striking arguments of this muscular Christianity/ made wonderful improvements .).) THE PILGRIMAGE in the character of the native. The Mucelis, though liv- ing under Portuguese rule, are allowed to enjoy their own laws, which, like the laws of other tribes, principally re- late to the native weakness of breaking the Seventh Commandment, the most petty offense being punished with slavery. This law is said to work charmingly; one by one they fall from grace, until but one is left pure; he then proclaims a general pardon and they commence over again. As the tribe is comparatively large and passably honest, this does not take place more than twice or three times a year. We have now visited the most important ports on the west coast, one abounding in wealth, but cursed with a malarial climate that is death to the European, and inhab- ited by a people too indolent to gather the riches that nature has placed at their hand. The principal trade is oil made from the palm kernel and ground-nut. The European erects his factorv on the sea coast and opens his store, the stock on hand comprising such articles as calicoes of the loudest patterns, trinkets, beads, powder, and an abundant supply of rum. The oil is collected in a crude state, and in small quantities, the native being satisfied if he has sufficient to supply his present want, which is generally rum. In former days, when to the eye of the savage " all was gold that glittered," the oil trade was a very lucrative business, but since the advent of the mis- sionary things have changed. The native is now able to compete in acts of roguery with the man at whose mercy he once was ; for, however laudable the cause, or earnest the labor of the missionary in trying to elevate him, the result is that he has not succeeded in implanting one Christian precept in his breast, and from this mission OF THE T1CONDEROGA. 2?) school, instead of ever remaining a bungling thief, he graduates an accomplished villain. In matters of dress, the native is very modest, their whole outfit consisting of a few inches of calico about the loins; among some, the only addition to that which nature has furnished is a simple string of beads. Though men and women dress alike, but little difficulty is experienced in distinguishing the sexes. In Sierra Leone and Liberia the law requires that they shall appear in public with a certain amount of clothing, but this cumpulsory addition 'to native taste would be hardly sufficient to support a Chinese laundry. Here, a man's worldly wealth can be estimated by the number of his wives ; for, before a young man can take upon himself the responsibility of making his wife sup- port him, he must first earn sufficient to purchase her. If then, by her thrift and his theft, he succeeds in accumu- lating riches, he takes unto himself wife No. 2. Should he be any way dilatory about making the addition, he is sure to be reminded of the fact by wife No. 1, who does not argue to herself that where there are divided affec- tions there can be no happiness ; for, of affections, she knows nothing, but takes a very practical view of the matter, and sees in No. 2 not a rival, but an assistant in the work of procuring a livelihood for her " lord." As much care and judgment is exercised here in selecting a wife as would be in purchasing a horse in America, as the man has to pay a round sum for her, which he only expects to recover either from the proceeds of her labor or from the sale of the children she may bear him. At the Gaboon, among the Mpongwis, a young woman has to appear before a female committee before marriage, who certify to her chastity, and if found u fair 24 THE PILGRIMAGE but frail," she is banished from the tribe ; but, at the Congo, virtue is not held in such esteem. It is said that here but few women have children ; so a maiden who has proved her power of propagating the race, does not long await suitors, and her " little experience " becomes to her parent a financial blessing. Among all the tribes adul- tery is considered a crime, punishable by death, flogging, slavery, or by fine ; generally, the matter is settled by the latter method, and makes blackmailing quite common in Africa. If one native becomes jealous of the rising afflu- ence of his neighbor he at once lays plans for his downfall, which he succeeds in accomplishing by means of one of his wives, and ere long the unsuspecting "Mil- lionaire " finds himself in the hands of the law, charged with the dread crime, to escape which he is only too will- ing to part with some of his riches. In these cases, whether pretended or real, the character of the woman is not affected, for here a man may sell or lease his wife, sister or mother for the vilest purposes, for his own per- sonal gain. A widow, among the Mpongwis is by law forbidden to re-marry, and compelled to degrade herself, the proceeds of which go toward the support of her male relatives ; this, however, does not affect her social stand- ing, and she still continues to mingle on terms of equality with the other women of the village. A personage who plays a very conspicuous part among the natives, is the Fetich man. In cases where they have suspicion of guilt, but no evidence, the suspected party has to submit to the test ordeal, for which purpose he is brought before the Fetich man (or, as he is called, Mumbo Jumbo), he being the gentleman who has charge of that " Department of Justice." Among them they have several tests, but their favorite ones are a strong OF THE TICONDEROGA. 25 poison made from the bark of the Sassa-wood tree, and the hot iron. In a case of the former, a large dose of the poison is administered to the accused ; should it sicken him and his stomach reject it he is considered in- nocent ; but if he succeeds in keeping it down and becomes affected by the poison he is considered guilty. In the iron test, the iron is applied to the flesh while red hot ; if it fails to burn it is a proof of innocence, but, on the contrary, if it burns, the guilt of the accused is established- During these performances (which always take place at night) the whole village is compelled to be present, and, on the first intimation of guilt, the accused M speedily dispatched with clubs. As, in these trials, the evidence of guilt or innoeence is always ocular there is aao appeal. One might think that to appear before the court was only to insure conviction, but such is not the case, for u Mumbo Jumbo," though he holds a powerful sway, is but mortal, and is said to possess a knowledge of herbs whicli counteract the effects of the poison or the action of the iron. The guilt or innocence of the .accused generally depends (as it sometimes does in more enlightened countries) upon how the accused is " fixed," or how far he will " come up." If willing to "see" the court, his case is made "solid," but should he prove unable, he is likely to discover that poverty is very inconvenient, even in Africa. How the medicine is prepared, that is warranted not to kill, is only known to " Jumbo." I only know that the dose one of their stomachs rejects must be truly a vile one. The native is but little, if anything, above the brute. He displays no inventive power; there is no such thing as a native industry ; his wealth is provided by nature, and even 26 THE PILGRIMAGE then be is too indolent to gather it, but compels that nearer approach to brute creation, his r/ife, to do it. Josh Billings says : " I never saw but one good injun y and that was a dead one," a term equally applicable to the nigger. This is the country we have been visiting. These are the people with whom we would form a com- mercial intercourse, and compete in a trade ab-eady more than monopolized by England, France, and Germany. The coast of Africa may become whitened by the sails of America, but it will be after the Thirteenth Amendment to the Constitution has been repealed, a probability not very encouraging to American ship-builders. Before the west coast of Africa can develop any com- mercial greatness the people will have to be brought within the bounds of civilization. To bring about this, two methods have been resorted to : First, a colony of American negroes has been established, in hopes of bringing the native within the fold, by holding up the better condition of the emigrant as an inducement to labor ; this has proved an utter failure, for no sooner were the colonists thoroughly established than they not only became equally as indolent, but began to consider themselves " Lords of the land," and their treatment of the natives soon brought them into dislike. In the second place, numerous missionaries have been distributed throughout the coast, in hopes that they might chris- tianize them. This, if anything, is a greater failure than the first, for, though their mission houses may be well attended on Sunday, and their schools thronged the week, they make no actual converts. A native will embrace Christianity just sojong as he is taken care of, and is willing to be baptised every day, if it were only to OF THE TICONDEBOGA. 27 have some one to wash him ; or he will refrain from eating meat on Friday if he is furnished with some other edible upon which he can gormandize ; but once throw him upon his own resources and he again becomes a " nigger," again a heathen. 28 THE PILGRIMAGE CHAPTER VI. ST. HELENA. After a stay of nine days at Loando, the coast fever broke out with great virulence among the crew, so our departure for St. Helena was hastened. It was thought that when once out in the cool, fresh sea air the disease would disappear, but such did not prove to be the case. Our long stay on the coast had so far emaciated the crew as to make them an easy prey for its ravages, and one by one had to succumb, until two-thirds of the crew were laid up at one time. Fortunately, our passage was a very pleasant one, otherwise some difficulty might have been experienced in working the ship. Early on the morning of the 21st the island was sighted. The cry of "Land ho ! " was welcome news to all except one, who at that time, let us hope, was gazing upon a brighter shore, for the same breeze that had wafted us so pleasantly on our way during the night, had sighed the eternal requiem of Francis Huxley, whose remains were consigned to the grave after coming to anchor. In a few days after, E. T. Fleck, who had been sick for some time, paid that debt which devolves alike upon all, and was laid by his side. They were both naval apprentices, promising men, and liked by all. The coast fever not being classed among contagious diseases, no restriction was placed upon our intercourse with the shore. So no sooner had the Medical Officer OV THE TICONDEROGA. 29 left us than we were besieged by " bum-boats," laden with every imaginable edible — fresh eggs, milk, fruits, and vegetables gathered upon the island, besides a large assortment of canned stuffs, such as preserves, meats, etc., among which could be found even that delicious Yankee gastronomic speciality, baked beans. Though our num- bers were small, our charge was so determined that in a short time the " bum-boats" were forced to retire in a de- moralized condition. The island of St. Helena is situated in the centre of the south-east trade winds. It was first discovered and taken possession of by the Portugese, afterwards owned alter- nately by the Dutch and English, until it finally became wholly an English colony. Its great historical interest is its being the island to which the Emperor Napoleon was exiled, and where he ended his days. Everyone visiting St. Helena is, as a matter of course, expected to make a pilgrimage to the tomb of Napoleon, and also pay a visit to Longwood, his residence. According to history, it seems the Emperor did not enjoy his sojourn on the island, and those who had charge of his safe keeping have been accused of heaping many unnecessary indignities upon him, while on the other hand it is stated that the then Governor, Sir Hudson Howe, did not find his charge of a very amiable disposition, but done everything in his power to make the exile of the Emperor as pleasant as possible. The main difficulty between them seems to have been in the manner of address. Napoleon could not or would not realize the idea that he was no longer an Emperor, and the Governor could only see in him plain Napoleon Bonaparte, and so styled him. No doubt he found it sufficiently galling to be continually under the surveillance of an English soldier, but when the last in- 30 THE PILGRIMAGE dignity was added, the burden became greater than human nature could bear, so under these real or imaginary grievances he succumbed, April, 1821, after an exile of a little over five years, he having arrived at St. Helena October, 1815. He was buried on the island, where he remained until 1840, when his body was conveyed with great pomp to Paris. This empty tomb is visited almost daily by persons calling at St. Helena, and the most trifling memento, such as a leaf, twig, flower, or pebble, gathered anywhere in the vicinity of this (to some) sacred spot, is held in the greatest veneration. Happily, a French officer in charge of the place keeps these man- worshippers within bounds, or the tomb itself would have disappeared ere this. In St. Helena eveiybody and everything is in some way, directly or indirectly, associated with the "illus- trious exile." It is a kind of mania, and the people have got it bad. One of our boys dropped into a drug store to purchase a tooth brush, when, by way of recommenda- tion, the owner of the establishment selected one from among the number as that used by His Majesty the Em- peror during his exile upon the island. The above is only a trifling illustration of the affliction under which the people labor. Here was spent the " Glorious Fourth" At daybreak, in addition to the usual bunting, the national ensign was displayed at each mast-head, which constitutes the present "regulation dress." At noon, a salute of twenty-one guns was fired, and as the ship had fired a salute on the 28th June, in commemoration of the day upon which the " Widow Guelph" had first donned her regal robes, the battery on shore returned the compliment by assisting us OF THE TICONDEROGA. 31 to commemorate the day upon which we had learned to do without them. The people of St. Helena, or, as they are termed, ** Yamstocks," are a mixture of all nationalities. They number about 5,000, independent of the military at the station. The wealth is confined to a few. Among the laboring class; a majority of the men follow a seafaring life, so in numbers the women predominate, and it is said of the rising generation " Smart is the child that knoweth its own father." Perhaps the greatest surprise accorded us here was a poem which appeared in the St. Helena Guardian, entitled "The Wanderer." At first we were electrified. Who was he % Under what bushel had his poetical light so long been hid 1 Upon elose inspection eould be discovered the name G K . The poem describes the ship in a terrific gale. A huge sea is about to engulf her. The crew, terror-stricken, have lost all hope, and are seeking aid from the Omnipotent. He alone rises above the common herd, and " when others pray," he only " smiles upon the storm." The sublime egotism he uses in depicting this scene, not only stamps him a genius, but one of the most modest of poets. The " Wan- derer" called forth a spicy little repartee, entitled " Hoop La." Since then nothing has been heard of our poet. After a stay of nearly a month, the health of the crew was sueh as to warrant our continuing our journey, so on •July 19th we bid the island farewell. 32 THE PILGRIMAGE CHAPTER VII. * CAJPE TOWN. Except, an occasional whpie" coming up to bio w r or a porpoise taking a quiet tranble t©> himself,, nothing occurred to mar the monotony of our passage- to the " Cape,," so on; August 4th r we arrived safe in Table Bay. The Cape Colony, of which Cape Town is the capital, was formerly owned by the Dutch;, many of whom still retain their nationality,, and between them and the English, the most amicable feeling does not exist. J have been informed that in the interior,, an Englishman, while traveling, finds it almost an impossibility to procure accommoda- tions for himself and horses, while persons of other nationalities have always reason to speak highly of their hospitality. The Dutch and English dislike each other; the Hot- tentot and Kaffir (the true aborigines) hate their white oppressors ; while tlie Mohammedan portion of the popu- lation look with contempt alike upon the Christian dog and pagan Kegro ; so it may be said that in Cape Town,, brotherly love reigns supreme. Among the industries of the coloaay r the principal are the vine culture, from which large quantities of wine is, manufactured and exported yearly,, wool raising and ostrich farming* Cape Town is situated in Table Bay, and sheltered by Table Mountain,, which rises 1,582 feet above the level OF THE T1CONDEROGA. 33 of the sea. It being the most accessible point to the diamond fields, a considerable number of strangers are continually passing through it, but this influx of visitors does not prevent it from being dreadfully dull ; in fact, the only amusement offered during our stay was a " cir- cus," which, though well patronized, and nightly applauded, was to those acquainted with " Barnum," sadly colonial. Here the ship was hauled alongside the wharf, where she was daily crowded by visitors anxious to look at the great " Yankee war ship," the one in whose wake the commercial greatness of all nations would wither, and who would convert the great ocean into a mere bay upon which alone the star-spangled banner would float. After a stay of about a month, during which time the ship had received some repairs, we took our departure for the East Coast. 34 THE PILGRIMAGE CHAPTER VIII. EAST COAST OP AFRICA. During the passage from Cape Town to Madagascar, one afternoon, a sail was sighted, and as quite a fresh breeze was blowing at the time, it was not long before the stranger was alongside. Upon our showing our colors he in answer also showed the "banner of the free." Of course the idea of an American ship being on this coast before we had opened it up to commerce, was too great a compliment to our power to be entertained any further than a capital joke. I suppose some jovial old sea captain found in this an excellent oppor- tunity to give vent to his feelings. The joke was a good one, though it was rather galling to know we were not the sole possessors of all the Ameri- can flags in existence. " We called at several ports along the southern portion of the Island of Madagascar, and while there, entered into a treaty with the King, in which he is to offer protection to all Americans who may wish to trade or who may l)e wrecked upon his coast. He received an American flag from the ship, which he hoisted to the breeze from the roof of his hen-coop, there to remain (when not used to gird the loins of some young sable lord) an everlasting beacon for the guidance of future American navigators. This King, though well advanced in years, is said to possess a considerable knowledge of the advantages of OF THE TICONDEfcOGA. 35 trade, and also of men, and always offers a warm reception to the merchant and missionary. Of the former class he prefers the American, as he considers them the most enterprising ; of the latter class he gives the Jesuits his preference, as they are generally more'fat and palatable than the Protestant. We at least found all his subjects anxious for trade. Everything they own, from their wives to their assageis, are for sale, the largest piece of money always procuring the largest amount, and it was astonish- ing after a little practice, the rapidity with which a penny could be converted (to the eye of the native) into a bona fide silver dollar. To some, this mode of traffic might seem objectionable, but then we wished to initiate them into the ways of the civilized man for their own personal benefit ; consequently the magnitude of the ends which we wished to attain justified the doubtfulness of the means. From Madagascar we went to the Island of Johanna, of the Comoro group, where we remained a few days, thence to Zanzibar, where we arrived October 9 th, During our stay the Sultan paid a visit to the ship, and was received with all the honors due his rank. He is said to be a man of more advanced and liberal ideas than most of his Mohammedan brethren, and has reformed many of the political and religious prejudices existing among his people. He is undoubtedly laboring hard for the elevation of his country. Though up hill work, the progress he has already made in addition, division and silence, and other difficult problems of political economy, are sufficient to instil hopes for the future. Here we remained two weeks, and after the exchange of a multitude of salutes, receptions, etc., and feeling 36 THE PILGRIMAGE confident that the superiority of the American eagle over all other birds, was thoroughly established on the East Coast, we bid farewell to Africa, and took our departure for Aden, OF THE TICONDEROGA. 37 CHAPTER IX. SEARCHING FOR COMMERCE AMONG THE ARABS', In Aden, an English port and mere stopping place for steamers bound to and from India, we did not expect to find much ; but, we had bid farewell to savage Africa, so this was the commencement of a new departure. After replenishing our bunkers, and purchasing a few ostrich feathers, at about twice their New York value, we pro- ceeded eastward to Muscat, a small fortified town on the coast of Arabia, whose forts the English have perforated from time to time in hopes of admitting a little of the light of the outer world upon their inmates. The place we found like most Arab towns, with narrow, filthy streets, which, though cleaner than some, were yet not sufficiently so to make their nationality a matter of doubt. Here it became known that we were to make a cruise tip the Persian G-ulf. I, for one, received the information with delight ; we would now have an opportunity of wit- nessing the splendor of the Orient. True, I had been disappointed in. Africa, my juvenile impression of that people (principally gathered from the illuminated cover of a Buchu bottle), had received a severe shock, but with the country we were now going to visit there was no discount ; it bordered on the land of Abraham, Isaac and Jacob. I had seen it illustrated in my Sunday- school book — there was no room for doubt. 38 THE PILGRIMAGE On the evening of November 2 2d, after taking a pilot on board, we proceeded on our way rejoicing. On the following evening we entered the Straits of Ormuz, and after wending our way through numerous small islands, arrived the next day at Bunder-el- Abbas, where we re- mained all night, proceeding the next morning to Ormuz, which place has the reputation of once being the wealthiest city of the East. It was taken possession of by the Portu- guese, and by them strongly fortified, but was afterwards bombarded by the English, and destroyed. Now, but a mass of ruins remain to mark the wealth of Ormuz — -the power of Portugal and the avarice of Great Britain. From here we went to Bushire, where we arrived, after laying two days wind-bound at Dayyer, on the 2d of December. Of this place, we saw but little, as our stay was short. Our journey so far had been along a country barren of vegetation ; the excuse that it had been subjected to the contaminating influences of the outer world, was not sufficient to keep our faith from wavering- For- tunately, on the evening of the 5th, we anchored in the mouth of the Euphrates River, and at a most opportune time — just as the dark verdure of the date groves caught the last rays of the setting sun. The scene was magnifi- cent ; our hopes were revived ; we were reassured. The next morning we ascended the river as far as Bassorah, In company with a friend, I paid the city (which is situated on the banks of a small creek, about three miles from the river), a visit. The tide being out, necessitated our procuring the assistance of a couple of asses, and to our lot fell two most antiquated specimens of that quad- ruped. The owner assured me that mine, though perhaps not very good looking, was extremely fleet. Had he assured me that it was the original ass that OF THE TICONDEROGA. 39 Joseph and Maiy to escape the wrath of Herod had used in their flight to Egypt, I should have had much less grounds for doubt ; however, they answered the purpose, and with the assistance of two Arabs, one pulling and the other pushing, we succeeded in accomplishing the distance of three miles in two hours. We had now seen the Arab steed — had experienced his fleetness. What next ] We had not long to wait, for upon entering the gates of the city we were assailed, to use the flowery language of the country, by one of those spice-laden breezes. In America, this article of perfume is called "sewer gas," but here the term would be inap- propriate, as sewers are unknown. Once inside the city, we began to prospect it, and after wandering among a people blessed with every degree of poverty, misery and affliction, through narrow, filthy streets, filled with animal matter in all stages of decom- position, inhabited by mendicant Arabs and mangy curs, we bethought ourselves of a hotel where we might enjoy a luxurious repast — delicate viands, golden platter, black slaves, etc. Upon making inquiry we were shown and ushered into a building about the size of an ordinary Saratoga trunk, which contained but one room, answering for sleeping, eating and cooking apartment. We were informed by " mine host " that the only edible the estab- lishment afforded was beefsteak, to which we consented. In a few minutes a sable dame made her appearance and commenced to revive some dying embers in one corner of the room ; this done, she dived into the coal box and yanked out a hunk of what was supposed to be beef, and cut from it two transparent slices. Now began a hunt for the cooking utensils. At last she was compelled to go out and borrow. During her absence the flies began 40 THK PILGRIMAGE to build on the steak ; she returned armed with a frying- pan ; she then went for the flies, and after leaving about twenty of their quivering bodies glued to eaoh piece, pro- ceeded to deposit them on the fire. Steak No. 1 landed safe, No. 2 fell short — the dog grabbed it. Now commenced a genuine struggle for its possession ; sometimes gal up, sometimes dog up. The chances were so even that we could not resist making a bet on the issue, but as our time was limited and the battle likely to be a lasting one, we had to draw and take our leave, but not before expressing an earnest wish that the best man might win. Upon regaining the banks of the river and awaiting the boat to convey me to the ship, the thoughts that prompted themselves were : can this be the beautiful land of which I have dreamed, the land upon which the first man, my noble ancestor, trod % Can that piratical- looking villian, sitting astride of an ass, be the noble Arab of whom I read, who, disdaining the white man's gold, mounts his steed and flees o'er his native desert] Is that black-and-taii damsel, with a Holman liver-pad sus- pended over her mouth, the one I learned to love — a maiden, the effulgence of whose beauty outshone the radi- ance of the sun '? If so, then farewell my boyhood dreams, farewell idols of my youth, you must now be torn down and cast under foot. To part with these was like bidding adieu to a dearest friend I was like Rachel weeping for her children ; I would not be comforted because they were not. At last relief came, the floodgates of my heart were opened, I found consolation in tears. The people are followers of Mohamet. In the observ- ance of the forms of their religion they are very strict; but like the wayfarers on other celestial routes, they do OF THE TICONDEROGA. 41 not follow its precepts. In the Mohammedan belief the wicked, on the final day of judgment, will assume the forms of hogs ; whether they will outnumber the Christian goats upon that day is doubtful, yet it is probable that their combined numbers will be sufficient to give his Satanic Majesty a " corner " in the market. In matters of dress the sexes dress much alike, though easily distinguished by the covering worn over the face by the woman. It is asserted that this covering is worn for the purpose of hiding their beauty, but I have been informed that the custom originated from an injunction in the Koran, in which all good Mohammedans are guarded against being led astray by the babbling of women. So, to insure themselves against this danger, they compel their women to wear this muzzle. I refrain from com- menting upon the usefulness of this article of female attire father than that "caudle" lectures and family broils are said to be things unknown to an Arab house- hold. The main riches of the gulf is its pearl fishery, an industry which affords employment for many and wealth to a few. The divers can only go down at certain and short periods of the year; the remainder of the time they are idle, aid at the mercy of the merchant to whom they sell their pearls, and who furnishes them with the neces- saries of life at such exorbitant prices that even after a good season they find themselves in debt, which continues to accumulate from year to year, during which time the merchant becomes wealthy, while the man who risks the dangers of the deep in recovering riches from its depths, lives a serf and dies wealthy only in what he owes. In speaking of wealth, I may say that here, to be rich, is dangerous. I have heard of an instance in which an 42 THE PILGRIMAGE Arab had succeeded in accumulating a goodly portion of worldly goods, build himself a mansion and began to en- joy all the etceteras of a merchant prince ; this excited the jealousy of the pasha, and from that day he was a shadowed man. As nothing could be brought against his character as a citizen, the pasha was compelled to seek assistance in that which never yet failed human being — his bible — and soon the intended victim was brought be- fore the court charged with neglect in religious observ- ances, when he was informed that in addition to being made a porker in the next world he would be made a pauper in this. The dread of the authorities in this mat- ter is so great that in walking the street it is difficult to distinguish the mendicant from the millionaire. Our mission here was about ended ; we came, we saw, it was now time to leave. On the morning of the 15th we departed for Bombay. OF THE TICONDEROGA. 43 CHAPTER X. BOMBAY. The morning of the 27th found us, after disentangling ourselves from among an innumerable number of fish poles, entering the harbor of Bombay, which is one of, if not the principal port of India. The city, though large, is not handsome. Outside of the public buildings she has no structure of which to boast. The event of note after our arrival was the opening of the " Princess Dock," which took place January 1st. It had been ready for some time, but was delayed that the day that marks the advent of a new year might also mark the new era in the commercial history of Bombay. Independent of this, January 1st ranks among the holidays of India, for, upon that day, a year prior, Queen Victoria, to better the condition of her Indian subjects, consented to the title of " Empress of India " being coupled with the proud one of " Queen of Britain." Since then the people have been happy. Here, not being acquainted with the city and not having the most distant idea of the Hindoo language, necessitated the assistance of a guide in the labor of procuring a sight of the " elephant." If a person visiting a foreign country has fears of being cheated he can easily remove them by engaging a guide, and thus make them a certainty. As a rule they are smart and shrewd, and can arrive at the moral and financial status of their 44 THE PILGRIMAGE victim in a comparatively short time. If you succeed in procuring a first-class guide your troubles are ended ; he can anticipate your wants, and will never tire in showing you places where articles are almost given away. Should you conclude to make a purchase you are invariably shown into an establishment where the only language spoken is that with which you are the least acquainted. This necessitates the guide doing all the talking. He informs the merchant of what you desire, how you are fixed and about the value of your experience, all of which you understand not a single word. He then, addressing you in your native tongue, informs you of the price, but adds that it is entirely too much, and that they are trying to take advantage of you on account of being a stranger, every word of which the merchant understands. Finally, after much talking, assumed anger, etc., you become the happy possessor of an article at about one- quarter of what was first asked, and at about twice its actual value, and go forth feeling as if under a debt of eternal gratitude to your guide for so thoroughly guarding your interests. One evening my attention was attracted by a torch- light procession. At first I took but little notice of it, as, in my native ignorance, I supposed it to be a political parade, a hose company, or something of that kind, until it began to pass, when I noticed that the sexes were about evenly divided in the ranks, and in addition to a gutter-snipe band and Chinese lanterns the people had their go-to-meeting clothes on. I was satisfied that its complexion was not political, for the Hindoos are above such follies as woman's rights, so I chalked it down Sunday School. The following day, in referring to the missionary labor among the Hindoos to a gentleman in OF THE TICONDEROGA. 45 Bombay, I mentioned the gratification I had experienced in witnessing a Sunday School procession on the previous evening, when he informed me that that which I had seen was a wedding festival, which, among the wealthy, are kept up for weeks, also, that the poorer classes in attempting to emulate the manners of their more fortu- nate brethren carry it to such an excess that it takes the remainder of their lives to defray the expense. Turning to his native clerk, who had been newly married, he asked him how long did he think it would take him to pay for his wedding, to which he coolly answered: At my present salary about fifty-four years. Just fifty-four years in debt for the pleasure of having a mother-in-law. If a Hindoo, when he takes upon himself the great responsibility of life, enjoys having the fact made known by all ostentations and show, he is none the less particular when he forever shakes them off. When he has cast his last die, handed in his last chip, his friends do not consign him to a tomb, there to remain in ignorance until the final day, nor do they erect a costly stone and publish upon its face that all the veracity of the family lies buried with him. No ! they have more respect for the feelings of their dead; they prepare them for the change. A pile of wood is erected, varying from one to two and a half cords, according to rank. Upon this the corpse is laid, after which the match is applied. Oil is poured upon it by a priest who has charge of the culinary department. But even death does not level all distinc- tions, for side by side may be seen two brothers, one wafted on his way by the odors of costly woods and oils, while the other is taking his foretaste of a blissful hereafter upon the dilapidated remains of an ash-barrel. While here, was granted forty -eight hours liberty, and 46 THE PILGRIMAGE it was, at times, astonishing as well as amusing to see how easily and quickly the sailors of " Uncle Sam " became initiated into the ways and manners of the oriental. One instance in which a young man (I omit his name, though not on account of his being a Jersey- man) had engaged a barouche, coachman, footman, etc., all made to order, and, while driving along one of the principal streets, I noticed his making many stoppages without any seeming cause. I at first supposed that he was experiencing some little difficulty with his servants, but upon the approach of the carriage I found both the very personification of obedience. It was only upon questioning the occupant that my fears~were put to rest ; he informing me that toj test their fidelity he caused a halt every four blocks, made them descend, kneel and kiss his feet. This I could hardly believe, until he gave me ocular proof of his statement. Here four of our men were sent to the hospital, among whom was the executive officer, Mr. Neilds. One case, that of John Kenzel, proved fatal. On the 12th of January we sailed for the Island of Ceylon, and arrived at Point-de-Galle on the 23d. This Island belongs to the English. Its main wealth is its pearl fisheries ; there are also considerable precious stones and ivory. Our stay was only for a few hours, but this was sufficient to allow any who so desired to become the happy possessor of an immense diamond, ruby, sapphire, or emerald, for the small sum of about twenty-five cents. Ofj course they were guaranteed genuine, simon pure, but should any of the happy victims ever become pecuniarily embarrassed they may find it difficult to OF THE T1CONDEROGA. 47 impress the immense value of those gems upon the mind of their practical " Uncle." Having received our mail we proceeded on our way toward Penang, where we arrived February 4th, re- maining four days, when we sailed for Singapore. 48 THE PILGRIMAGE CHAPTER XI. SINGAPORE. At Singapore, which is situated on an island of the same name at the end of the Malacca, and owned by the English, we arrived on the 12th of February. Here was spent Washington's birthday, but as it fell upon Sunday no display was made. Generally, upon such an occasion, the ceremonies attending them are postponed until the following -day, but our early sailing on the 23d forbade even this, so the natal day of Wash- ington passed without public recognitioD. From here we went to Borneo, an island on the equator, and one of great reputed wealth, producing along its coast a first-class article of malarial fever, which is only equaled by the cholera of the interior. Our first port of entry was Bruni, a town of about half a dozen huts, built on piles on the banks of a creek, which cannot be approached nearer than ten miles by ordinary draft vessels. It was the intention, upon leaving Singapore, to circumnavigate the island, but the present and prospective commercial greatness of this place afforded so much encouragement that it was thought advisable, instead of taking a turn around the island, to take a turn towards Manilla, where we arrived March 9th. Manilla is on the island of Luzon, the capital of the Phillipine group, and one of the possessions of Spain. One of the principal industries of the place is the manu- OF THE TICONDEROGA. 49 facture of cigars, which is wholly under the control of the Government. The population is composed principally of Spaniards, Malays, negroes, and Chinamen. During six days of the week the city presents quite a lively appear- ance ; on the seventh, it being a Christian country, no labor is allowed, that day being religiously set apart for cock-fighting and prayer — a moral and religious obligation rigidly observed by the people. Manilla also boasts of some very fine chapels and an ancient cathedral ; a new one, now far advanced towards completion, when finished, will be all that is costly and gorgeous. All that the country wants is a fair chance and her energies property directed, and in a short time she will vie with the mother country in the production of cathedrals and paupers. That part of the city known as " Old Manilla" is for- tified, but the usefulness of the walls is gone, and only remain relics of the past, for now the greater part of the city is outside of them, yet they are still kept garrisoned. As a fighter the Spanish soldier has some weak points, but as a sentry he is a success — nothing outside of an earthquake will move him. One day I had need to pass eleven of them in and about the city, and only nine of them were asleep. This imparts to the people a feeling of safety. They know that when they retire at night the ever vigilant eye of the military watches o'er them. Our mission being ended, we took our departure for the land of the " Celestial " on March 22d. 50 THE PILGRIMAGE CHAPTER XIL HONG KONG. On the morning of March 26th we anchored in the harbor of Hong Kong. To attempt description would be a waste of time, as everyone is more or less acquaints ed with it, and as to John Chinaman, alas, we know him too much. For its size and pretensions, Hong Kong offers but little encouragement to pleasure seekers to repeat their visits. I wandered about the city the greater part of a day trying to encounter something of sufficient interest to glue my gaze upon, but in vain. Towards evening I came across another of the boys who had been on the same errand as myself, and with about the same success. After finding a little consolation in each other's misery, we concluded to throw ourselves upon the tender mercies of a manipulator of one of the most heathenish modes of locomotion ever devised by man — a sedan chair — as perhaps he was better acquainted with the town than we. We informed "John " that we were " Mayor Kalloch " and " Denis Kearney " from San Francisco, and that we were out on a of a time and wanted to be trotted around — take in everything — big tent and side shows, that with us money was no object; in fact, we wanted to pay more than any other man, as our mission was to raise the pay on this side, and change the tide of emigra- tion. He informed us that our fame had gone before us, OF THE TICONDEROGA. 51 and that he appreciated the honor we were conferring upon him, so we each entered an "instrument of torture," and after half an hour of agony was deposited in Happy Valley graveyard. I shall never forget the withering look " Denis " cast upon that poor Chinaman as he made a grab for him, at the same time exclaiming, " Who do you think I. am 1 Do you take me for a graveyard poet 1 Do you think I came from Philadelphia 1 Oh ! I'll annihilate you, you lecherous almond-eyed " here 1 had to interpose, telling him he should make some allowance for the man's indefinite knowledge of the English language, and that perhaps he was only influenced by kindly and patriotic motives in bringing us out to this place. After his pas- sion had subsided we returned to town, but as his dignity had been insulted, nothing would prevail upon him to renew the search, so we wended our way shipward, mutually agreeing, that the more you know a Chinaman, the less you like him. Perhaps one exception is " Bumboat Sam." Sam has been in the business all his life. In fact, it became his by inheritance. He does all the trade among American ships and has become quite Americanized. On Wash- ington's Birthday, Fourth of July and other national holidays, he never fails to trot out his " war junk " and fire a salute. Besides this, Sam is smart and has an eye to business, and the rapidity he will run over 6 and 7 makes 14 and 5 makes 20 in adding up your bill, would put to shame a graduate of Bryant & Stratton's. At last the day came (April 6,) when we could bid good-bye to Hong Kong, her painters, tailors and shoemakers, and her \ r endors of every civilized, barba- rian, christian or pagan article imaginable. 52 THE PILGRIMAGE CHAPTER XIII. JAPAN. On leaving Hong Kong our destination was the Loo Choo Islands, but adverse weather drove us on towards Nagasaki, where we arrived April 11th. To foreign commerce, Nagasaki is the oldest port in Japan. Formerly all communications from and to the capital were here received and delivered, until Commo- dore Perry, of the U. S. Navy, broke the spell by an- choring his fleet off the capital and demanding an inter- view. At first the " Japs " were unwilling to digress from established customs, but Perry remained firm. At last success crowned his efforts. Negotiations were com- menced, and four ports in Japan were thrown open to commerce. Since then the Japanese have profited by the treaty they were so unwilling to make, and will soon be able to demand a place among the nations of the earth. Her old war and trading "junks" have given way to a fleet of fast steamers and ironclads, and instead of an un- paid, undisciplined mob, she can now boast of a well or- ganized army, quite a respectable national debt, and a depreciated currency. Nagasaki is quite a flourishing town, with a consider- able commerce, principally coal, it being within a few miles of the Takasima mines. Outside of the foreign concession, it has no particular claims to beauty > as the Japanese style of architecture is not of an imposing char- OV THE TICONDEROGA. 53 acter. Yet it is pleasantly situated, and the several Consulate residences, with a church spire raising here and there, tend to relieve the scene. The first Sunday after our arrival the Rev. Mr. preached on board. He was accompanied by several of his male and female co-laborers in the good work of re- claiming the heathen Japanese. The service opened with the " Sweet bye and bye," then, after a fervent prayer for the safety and salvation of all on board (the common sailor excepted, "Fiddler's Green" being especially set apart as his future elysium). " Hold the fort" was com- menced. This without rehearse was too much. The choir found themselves unequal to the occasion. Our cornet-player pointed his instrument seaward and heaven- ward, and belched forth discordant strain after strain, but to no avail. Slowly but surely the strains became weaker ; failure was imminent. No ! our Rev. friend girded his armor about him, and with a desperate spurt went five notes to the front, held his lead to the finish, and saved the " fort." During the succeeding services the recording angel had to submit to the additional agony of a string band, yet it was considered an improvement ; but alas, not so the congregation. The savage breast of the average sailor might be soothed by music, but it was evident that he would not " Sankeyize." Finally the sonorous voice of the Rev. gentleman became a thing of the past. After a short stay, we left (May 3d) for Corea, and arrived on the 4th at Fusan, a port lately opened to the Japanese. Several attempts were made to communicate with the Government ; but once our nationality was made known, it was simply impossible to make any headway. The Governor was willing to listen, but would forward no 54 THE PILGRIMAGE letter to the Emperor, and whether his ear was filled with threats or " taffy/' it elicited but one reply, which was always accompanied by the act of drawing his hand across his throat, first, by way of giving his negative a little emphasis, and in the second, to give us to under- stand that the " Melican man" was at a discount in Corea. Late on the evening of the second day we took our departure, and the news flashed over the wires that the " Ticonderoga" had visited Corea. Vent, Vidi, not much Vidf We did not return to Nagasaki, but proceeded to Yo- kohama by way of the Inland Sea. The empire of Japan is composed of some thirty-five hundred islands, great and small. This archipelago is known as the Inland Sea. I had heard considerable of the picturesque beauties that would be presented on this passage, and as we wended our way through innumerable islands many were the ad- mirers of the scenery. Everywhere there was evidence of industry. No piece of ground that was capable of cultivation but was made to yield. Other places present- ed excellent sites for farms — only requiring the intro- duction of a little soil. What interested me most was the enthusiasm a bleak barren rock, or a few hovels here and there could create. Once I thought I would be in fashion. We were passing one of those wild " romantic" scenes — a rocky island, without sufficient vegetation to support a goat, and with about as much romance about it as a telegraph-pole or a cord-wood pile. For a victim upon whom I could shower all the little choice and appropriate phrases I had been able to borrow, I chose an ancient mariner who was leaning over the rail, watching the descent of the mouthful after mouthful of tobacco juice he ejected. Upon him I hurled those little phrases, be- OF THE TICONDEROGA. 55 sides expending a private little store of adjectives, and watched the effect. After a time he got up, and with a " Say, let go my ear J" walked off. I was satisfied that that man wouldn't " enthuse," but I would not give up. I encountered another, and made him submit to the same ordeal. He took me to one side and advised me to see the doctor, that I " had it bad." I gave up. I was satisfied I was a failure. On the 11th of May we arrived at Yokohama, where, to our surprise, we found an American steamer, the " City of Tokio," one of the Pacific Mail line, to us quite a curiosity, she being the first we had seen since leaving home. In fact, we had begun to doubt whether such things as American steamers had a real or only an imaginary existence ; but wonders were not to rest here. In a few days the U. S. S. " Alert" made her appearance. We had now traveled over a distance of 30,000 miles, and this was the only representative of our most beauti- ful navy we had yet met. Yokohama, I believe, is the principal commercial port of Japan. In the European concession it has a substan- tial appearance, but outside of that it differs little from other Japan towns. A railroad connects it with Tokio, the capital. This latter city is most curiously laid out, it being intersected by several deep moats. For- merly .the different princes of the realm were compelled to reside at Tokio a certain period of the year. When paying the capital a visit, it was customary to bring with them numerous followers. They occupied separate sec- tions of the eity, and were entrenehed about by a deep moat, and as their followers would generally number several thousands, these sections were of considerable 56 THE PILGRIMAGE size, and Tokio became, as it is called, a city composed of cities. With the exception of the Government buildings, which are on the European plan and of an extensive character, that eternal Japanese style everywhere meets the eye. Before evening I found myself sufficiently surfeited with moats, walls, tea gardens, and Josh houses, to be glad to return. After laying nearly a month in Yokohama, we left (May 31st) for Kobe, where we arrived June 3d. On arriving at Kobe (formerly called Hiogo) I heard con- siderable of its great waterfall. Nothing would do but I should pay a visit ; so after submitting for two hours to a broiling sun, and climbing up a road that was calculated to erase every Christian precept from the heart of man, we arrived at the top of the hill, where we could look upon the " waters rushing madly down." I think that is the way a friend of mine has got it down, and he is one that can " enthuse" whenever he likes. Now, I don't like walking, especially along a bad road, up hill, and in a hot sun ; but then, if Kobe could trot out anything to eclipse Niagara, I was willing to suffer a little incon- venience to see it. Nevei was man doomed to suffer greater disappointment. There lay the falls before us. A Yankee fire engine could throw water all around it — throw it on the hands of a Chinese laundryman and it would bankrupt him. It was a fraud — an imposture. When Japan can put a more respectable article in the market, I'll take it in ; until then I'll take mine without water. Here we only remained a few days, leaving on the 8th and arriving on the 11th at Nagasaki. OF THE T1CONDEROGA. 57 CHAPTER XIV. NAGASAKI. July 4th found us the only representative of the nation, but we succeeded in playing a good lone hand. The fourth falling upon Sunday, the display was postponed until the fifth. At sunrise the ship was dressed from stem to stern with bunting, the foreign men-of-war also dressing. At noon a salute of twenty-one guns was fired. At sundown the flags were replaced by Chinese lanterns. Fore and aft, along each yard-arm, at the rail and water line, the ship was gaily illuminated. A procession of thirteen sampans, typical of the thirteen original States, was formed, which, also decorated with lanterns, discharged salvos of fireworks as they made a circuit of the harbor. It was acknowledged to be the greatest display ever witnessed in Nagasaki, if not in Japan. The next event of interest was the appearance of the " Swatara," fresh from the States. It being reported that she had a fast boat, the " boys " determined to bring her out. One of our cutters, which was supposed to possess some imaginary racing qualities, was chosen to be the "Conquering Hero." The "Swatara" at first did not seem anxious, but at last consented, and July 20th was set down as the date of the " aquatic battle," course two miles straight away. Our boat was painted white, while that of the " Swatara " was black ; as these were more 58 VMM TILGRIMAGE easy than the ships' names the boats were known as the " black " and " white." As the time drew nearer excite- ment grew proportionately greater. On board, the "white" was the favorite, more, perhaps, through sympathy than judgment, yet the adherents of the respective colors were willing to back their opinions, and betting became interesting, At 6 p. m. the boats were placed in line. At the word "go" they got well off together, with a little in favor of the " white," but before many strokes the " black " got down to fine work, and soon had things her own way, crossing the line winner by over a minute. Since then the sound of " white boat " no longer grates upon the ear. Let us hope for those who went their u pile " on the " white " that what they lost in riches they may have gained in wisdom. "While here two base ball clubs were organized, one composed wholly of men from deck, who were styled the " Ticons," while the other, principally made up of men from the fire-room, wielded the willow under the title of the " Novelty Works." Several bitter and determined contests took place for the mastership of the diamond, but without any decided results, dame Fortune dividing her smiles about equally upon the respective banners, yet good feeling always prevailed, the rivalry was never carried off the field, and, like the ancient Greeks, both clubs were always willing to combine on the approach of a common enemy. With the Japanese base ball will probably be some time before it numbers among their popular games. It requires too much exertion for the average native taste, yet whenever a game was played it brought out a number of spectators. In justice be it said, that as an audience the Japs are a success, in fact the greater part OF THE TICONDEROGA. 59 of the native talent seems directed toward the cultivation of the art of sitting down, During our stay the " Richmond," ** Swatara," " Palos" and " Ashuelot " visited the port, besides the Russian fleet, several English, French, German and a Brazilian man-of-war. At last came the stern mandate, " move on," our cruise was not of pleasure j we had still more work before us ; we had to delve further into the unexplored regions of commerce. So farewell, Nagasaki. No more will thy junrikisha men whirl us through thy odoriferous streets ; no more will thy oderiferous sampan man scull us over the placid waters of thy bay. A pleasant run of five days brought us to Chefoo, China. Our stay here was but short, leaving on the 29th of August and again arriving at Nagasaki on the 2d of September, where, after replenishing bunkers, we left for Kobe on the 4th, 60 THE PILGRIMAGE CHAPTER XV. THE JAPS. Our long stay at Nagasaki and visits to other ports of the empire gave an opportunity of becoming to some extent acquainted with the Japs. In dress, each class has a separate costume, that of the* poorer consisting of loin-cloth, over which is worn a loose gown tied around the middle. This increases in quantity and quality as you ascend the social scale. The hair which is allowed to grow long is tied at the back, the " queue " being brought over the top to the forehead, the part upon which it rests being shave, but now it is not uncommon to see the gown giving place to a " Chester- field" and the queue to a short crop and plug hat, " all same as melican man." Shoes are rarely worn, necessity rather than antipathy to shoes compel them to adhere to the sandal, they being more easily removed from the feet, an act never neglected by the Jap upon entering a dwell- ing. Women all dress alike, the quality of her garment denotes her status. They, unlike the men, seem to have rigidly set their faces against all foreign innovations, for I have never seen one of them attempt to emulate the costume of her European sisters. A striking feature of a Japanese town is the absence of noise and confusion. This is to some extent due to the absence of carriages. You scarcely ever see a Jap loung- ing along the street, he generally moves as if he intended OF THE TICONDEROGA. 61 to go somewhere, and he does it quietly so that in a crowded thoroughfare about the only noise you hear is the clatter of sandals. At all times a Jap is polite, in fact with him politeness is almost a failing. Their rapid motion through the streets and low bow to one another at passing, would at a distance convey the idea to a stranger that the whole town was playing " leap frog." In strolling through a town you are rarely importuned by venders soliciting you to purchase their goods, and if it should be necessary to ask a question, an answer will always be tendered with every politeness. With so large a population to feed, every inch of soil is compelled to yield, so that industry is a necessity. There is nothing progressive about a Japanese farmer, his ideas are like his implements, primitive, and judging from workmen that I have seen about cities, I know few who can work longer and accomplish less. Among the amusements of Japan of which there are quite a number, the theatre is perhaps the place of great- est attraction, and is generally well attended. I had the pleasure of visiting one at Nagasaki. The piece on the board was a love story in which the hero who was about to start off to the war, was represented pouring tales of love and constancy into the ear of his adored one, in tones that would make the most credulous audience believe his agony to be real, that his disease partook more of colic than love. A host of actors were introduced indiscrimi- nately, and their howling was something terriflic, while the band, which also occupied a place on the stage, did noble work in adding to the general confusion. In religion the Japs are Shintos and Bhuddists, some have adopted Christianity, but they are in a fearful minority. The deities of the Shintos are, with one ex- 62 THE PILGRIMAGE ception, historical personages who have been deified. They number 13,730, and of these 3,700 are known to have shrines erected to them at which the devout offer up their petitions. The Bhuddists, of which there are numerous sects, have also many objects of adoration. Some sects devote themselves to some more than others, and temples of the same sect may have special favorite idols, which may be seen well worn by devotees rubbing the figure and then the corresponding parts of their own bodies. The founders of sects are also represented by idols and adored principally by the sects they founded. In these figures the same deity may be represented in several attitudes and at various ages. As each posture has a separate signification the idols are numerous. When a Bhuddist is about to u shake off this mortal coil," he makes every preparation for the event by fre- quent visits to his favorite shrine; besides, the services of a priest are called into requisition that his road to para- dise may be thoroughly paved. When he has departed, the corpse is placed with the head toward the North. At he head a new writing desk, rice cakes and josh stickst are placed, while the tray, cups, chopsticks, etc., used by the deceased, are placed at the side of the corpse. Thus he remains forty-eight hours, when he is prepared for the coffin or tub, by being first washed, and then, unless he has otherwise wished, his head is shaved, after which he is placed in the coffin in a sitting position. These coffins or tubs are made either of wood or earthenware and vary from a pickle jar to a mackerel keg, so that each can get a " send-off " according to his means. The corpse is first conveyed with great pomp to the temple where a certain amount of^prayer is recited; thence to the graveyard, where, while being planted, it receives another edition of OF THE TICONDEROGA. 63 prayer. All these little preparations before and after death do not insure the celestial felicity of the departed) the relations have to go into deep mourning, abstain from certain diets, recite the necessary and proscribed prayers, besides paying fifty daily visits to the grave. In Bhuddism there are ten states of future existence, five of good and five of evil. Of the five good, from life on earth to that of absolute nihilification, the prayers of the living are not required; but if the deceased was not a devout liver, his soul then goes to purgatory where the devil takes his papers and passes judgment in accordance* The friends of the departed are not aware of this sen- tence, so they must draw their own conclusions as to about where he is located and his condition. These can only be improved through the medium of dearly bought prayers. If the departed has been a most hardened wretch, so as to have become too bad even for hell, he is punished by being transformed into a beast and sent on earth to suffer. Qhildren's spirits are said to go to the " pebble plain," where upon certain conditions they can enter an unborn child and have another chance. The unmarried, should they escape perdition, can only hope to join the children, as their neglected duties on earth precludes them from paradise. But whatever may be the condition of the departed, it can always be improved and eventually reach paradise through the medium of money and prayer. In the Shinto prayer, there is nothing indicative of a belief in a future existence, or of the possession of a soul by the petitioner, so that when one is dying, no prayers are said by himself or friends. In arranging the corpse, the " lay out " is similar to that of the Bhuddists. Twenty-four hours after death, he is placed in a long coffin in a reclining position, when he is 64 THE PILGRIMAGE conveyed to the grave where a burial service is recited. A post is erected over the centre of the grave, on which is recorded the date of death, age, name and virtues of the departed. After one hundred days have elapsed, this wooden post is replaced by a pillar of stone. Until within the last few years, the priests drew large revenues from the government, but now they are thrown upon their own resources. By this the treasury gains and the priests do not suffer, for when their government allowance was cut off they had nothing to do but raise the "fare" over the different celestial routes of which they were the agents. The people are very superstitious. The most intelli- gent Jap is capable of swallowing the hardest kind of a ghost story, while evil omens, witchcraft, charms and fortune telling are considered Simeon pure gospel. Besides the fear of damnation, a Jap has another strong reason why he should walk in the ways of the righteous, in that of the law of the land^ for it may be said, that if a crime is committed in Japan, some one has to suffer. In a Japanese court, the principal dignitaries are the magistrate, constable and torturer. The prisoner is brought into court securely bound, when the magistrate proceeds to question him. Should he be any way dila- tory about answering these questions, or refuse to answer such as might tend to criminate himself, the torturer, armed with a heavy whip, steps up and administers a gentle reminder, that the majesty of the law must be respected, that the court will stand no fooling. The examination is only preliminary, and should it fail to elicit any eviddnce of guilt, the accused is taken to prison where a further examination is conducted, when he is informed that in order that the ends of justice may OF THE TICONDEROGA. 65 be attained, torture will be resorted to, of which there are several modes, among which are the " oil tor- ture," in which the prisoner gets a clean wash in boiling oil ; next, the " fire torture," in which the prisoner is suspended by the heels in a bamboo cage which is made to revolve in a circle over charcoal fires. Another is the "ladder torture. " The accused, bound to a horizontal ladder, is made to drink large quantities of water. When he is incapable of holding any more, the water is drove towards the head by means of a heavy stick and forced out of the ears, eyes and nostrils. Boiling water is another. Here the prisoner is bound to a frame with his back exposed, into which incissions are cut and washed out with boiling water. Should the prisoner remain obdurate and still refuse to confess, and there be any accomplices, to strike fear into them, the water is exchanged for molten lead, and the terrible example is made of the gentleman under judicial treatment. Another model mode of arriving at truth is a copper kettle with a hole in the top sufficiently large to allow the head to protrude. Into this the victim is placed, spirits are added, and venomous snakes introduced, after which fire is added, which soon makes it too hot for the snakes, and they in turn make it too hot for their companion. This test is generally applied to women. In all these tortures the only chances of escape are upon the conditions of a confession, after which the prisoner is taken to receive sentence. Bad as these tortures were, the punishments fol- lowing them, especially in capital cases, were marked with equal cruelty. One mode of execution was that of " crucifixion." The prisoner was suspended from a rude cross, after which two spears were driven through the body from the lower part of the abdomen until they pro- 66 THE PILGRIMAGE traded at the shoulder, one on the right side and one on the left. Much care was taken not to touch the vitals. In this position other tortures were added until death released their victim. "When it was particularly desirous to inflict a torturous death, burning at the stake was resorted to, and any one guilty of parricide was bound to a stake and exposed in the street for such a time as the sentence might state, after which his head was hacked off with a bamboo saw. Now, the only capital punishments in Japan are decapitation, to which may be added expos- ure of the head and hanging, the latter being considered the least ignominious. Any offence committed by foreigners are tried before a consular court. This clause in the treaty the Japanese are laboring to have removed so as to make all residents amenable to the laws of the country. Though these old tortures are now officially discountenanced, foreigners have not sufficient faith in her amended laws to be will- ing to come under their yoke. OF THE TICONDEROGA. "7 CHAPTER XYI. ACROSS THE PACIFIC. As we were to bid farewell to the Eastern world from Kobe, every preparation was made for a long passage. Besides an abundance of fresh provisions, in addition to our full bunkers, a deck load of coal was taken on board. Early on the morning of the 11th resounded through the ship the welcome sound of " all hands up anchor for home." Soon we were on our way, blessed with pleasant weather, our customary head wind, and a long and monotonous passage before us. To some this might not appear such a dreadful fate, their impression of a sailor being that the shore has no attraction for him, that the very acme of his happiness is to be out upon the sea, in terrific gales, driven about at the mercy of the waves, etc.; that he is a kind of amphibious animal, capable of existing for a limited time on land, but that the water is his true element ; that to'^be rocked to sleep on the bosom of the deep with a wet swab under his ear, is a comfort unknown to those who are forced to lay on beds of down, while to him theatres, operas, etc., are dry and insipid amusements when compared with the luxury of wallowing in a lee scupper knee deep in salt water, when, in fact, there are no class of men who can more thoroughly appreciate the comforts afforded by terra Jirma than the sailor. His principal 68 THE PILGRIMAGE misfortune is that he generally appreciates them too much. As for gales and " heavy weather," from them he is always willing to be excused, for he knows exactly what one means, and has no desire to become further acquainted with their attending discomforts, labors and dangers. There are many good people who, having the interests and welfare of the sailor at heart, try to make the shore attractive for him, but when he arrives they surround him with such a halo of romance that they fail to discover his real character, and in their attempts to do good either hasten him off to sea or drive him somewhere worse. They then accuse "Jack" of being ungrateful, while he consoles himself with the idea that his would-be bene- factors are either " land sharks " or fools. If these good Samaritans would only banish from . their minds the ancient mariner of the picture book and remember that they are dealing with the unromantic but practical seaman of the nineteenth century, then posibly their labors may be crowned with a deserving success. On this occasion I know of none who were not anxious for our arrival, and day by day that anxiety became greater. To while away our leisure hours, the base ball match which was played the day before our departure between a nine composed of officers and men of the " Pal os " and " Ticonderoga" and a Kobe club, in which they were taught that the sailors of " Uncle Sam," if invincible on the sea, were no less an enemy on the " diamond." If in this match the Kobeites imagined they had a " soft thing," or that the " sea legs " of the naval invincibles would in any way impede their progress between bases they were doomed to be disappointed, for the score showed that " Uncle Sammy's " returns had OF THE TICONDEROGA. 69 " heeled the plate " to the tune of 29 to 6. This game was not only food for the garrulous, but gave the " knights of the willow" an opportunity of introducing and com- menting upon the technicalities of the game. Our arrival at the 180th parallel of longitude, and all the why's and wherefore's of having two Tuesdays in one week, beside the one hundred and one side issues it gave rise to, were ground up beyond resuscitation; then exploits in strange lands and among stranger people were hashed and rehashed. When on the evening of the thirty-third day out a venerable mariner (who, as I don't want to give him away, I will style Jerry) was relating a thrilling and continued story of his hairbreadth escapes and experiences among ship-wrecks and savages, not a word of which anyone believed, except it was himself, for one yarn in particular that he never tires in relating is, " how he got his pension papers out for sea service in the ark ;" this, as others he has related so often, that he has finally brought himself to believe that he has been shipmates with the ancient navigator, Captain Noah. Just as we were beginning to get interested in the tale, the man at the mast-head broke in very abruptly with the cry of " Land, ho." This was a signal for a general rush, so " Jerry's yarn" was indefinitely postponed. On the following morning the Island of Woahoo was in sight, and by noon we were safely at anchor in the harbor of Honolulu. 70 THE PILGRIMAGE CHAPTER XVII. HONOLULU. The Hawaiian Kingdom, of which Honolulu is the capital, is ruled by a king (native), a cabinet (forefgn), and a house of representatives (mixed) ; but I am not going to enter into a description of the country, its gov- ernment, people, or its resources. My mission here is one of pleasure. I have forty-eight hour's leave, and I intend to make the most of it. On first landing in Honolulu, one is likely to be favor- ably impressed with the place ; but should the day be Sunday, and the visitor not a believer in the doctrines of " Father Matthew," or " John B. Gough," those impres- sions soon " grow beautifully less." In company with a couple of the boys, it was my fate to visit Honolulu upon that day. We amused ourselves the greater part of a forenoon wandering about the streets in a boiling sun, encountering clouds of dust at every corner, a consider- able portion of which we succeeded in inhaling upon our lungs ; but for that we did not care ; we started to see the town and were going to see it, even if we had to swallow a little loose dust. Occasionally we would accost a native with such questions as, What building is this 1 or that 1 or that 1 and receive, in reply, " Oh, that's a school ; it belongs to the Missionaries." " That other is a church ; that's Missionary, too ;" " and that large build- ing, that's the palace ; the Missionaries allow the king to OF THE T1CONDEROGA. 71 live there." Here, one of the boys interposed with a — " Say, boss, we are much obliged for all this information, only it is a little too much Missionary. Now, if you want to do a real favor, and put us under a debt of eternal gratitude, or if you want us to pray night and morning for your moral, physical, and spiritual welfare, just direct us where we can procure a drink." " Gentle- men, I can assure you that a drink to-day is out of the question ; the Missionaries do not allow it to be sold." This last assertion we pronounced as "taffy," and deter- mined to prosecute an independent search. We could *gaze upon sign after sign that denoted where the " neces- sary " could be procured during the six days, but that seventh day elasticity of conscience, so peculiar to the American " dispenser of the ardent," was nowhere fco be found. Earnestly we searched for " Family Entrance/' those words which are such balm to the troubled soul of " he that thirsteth after the spirits," but in vain. Our fate seemed hard, yet we could not blame those good men. They were laboring in a noble cause, and for their success we prayed — yes, prayed as only men with a portion of an extinct volcano upon their lungs can pray. After partaking of a good dinner, we concluded to spend the afternoon riding in the country. As the Mis • sionaries had not put the " taboo " on horseflesh, no trouble was experienced in procuring it. The owner of an establishment placed before me one of his specimens . one that he would guarantee as of the most safe and amiable disposition. I informed him that I had no doubt as to the great value of the horse, but to me, on this occasion, he would be altogether useless, as I was merely ashore for recreation, and had no desire at present to enter into the study of equine anatomy, He excused 72 THE PILGRIMAGE himself on the grounds that his choice had been governed by the impression that I was a Missionary. I gave him to understand that he was mistaken ; that in fact I was anti-Missionary, and was at present engaged in preparing an explosive before which nitro-glycerine and giant pow- der would fade into insignificance, and when completed I was going to call a grand convocation of Missionaries upon some remote island, and test its power. As I opened out this dire plot, I imagine he looked upon me as the great benefactor of the human race ; for with a "Hi yah! ana sokar wipero ken" (i, e., then Kanaka man will drink plenty whisky), he dashed into the stable and in a few minutes he trotted out the noblest animal of which his place could boast. As this latest arrival suited my taste exactly, I endeavored to mount, but this I found to be no easy matter. The horse was perfectly docile : the great peculiarity in him was that just as I was about to place my hand upon him, he would remem- ber that his ear wanted scratching, and by the time I was again ready to make an attempt, a fly on his tail would attract his attention. At last I succeeded in reaching the saddle, but no sooner had I gained the coveted place than I was overcome with a sudden desire to sit upon the grass and contemplate the increasing momentum of fall- ing bodies, attraction of gravitation, and the probable cohesive properties of the human frame. In a few min- utes I concluded to continue the ride, which, along such excellent roads, would have been quite enjoyable, had not this most noble of quadrupeds taken such a determined resolve to economize labor by only using two of his legs at a time. As his efforts only tended to throw me more and more into the contemplative mood, I concluded to OF TIIK TICONDEROGA. 7'.\ turn my charge over to 3 1 is rightful owner, as these con- tinued dismount ings were becoming monotonous. Before leaving, a baseball match Avas played between the "Honolulu" and " Ticonderoga " nines. A majority of the boys had only returned from forty-eight hours liberty, and through a little over-indulgence in walking and horse-riding, were pretty well "broken up." At the start they went to the front ; but as they were out of order, and the " Honolulus " a little M fresh," they were soon compelled to take a place in the rear. As it was late when the game commenced, time was only afforded to play six innings, so that by the time the " Ticons " had their stiffness worked off and were commencing to cut down the big lead of their opponents, darkness -closed upon them, and they had, for the first time, to taste the bitterness of defeat, with a score of 8 to 18. The first matter of interest, after our arrival, was the receipt of the mail. This, after it is received, is first assorted, and that portion of it addressed to the crew is handed over to the master-at-arms (or as he is more com- monly called, "Jimmy Legs ''), for distribution. Noth- ing creates a greater sensation than its arrival, and the cry of " Mail ho," is potent to destroy all interest in other matters, whether terrestrial or celestial. "Jimmy Legs "is the Chief of Police, and one who draws considerable water, the avoirdupois of his official responsibility varying between the Capitol and Mount Vesuvius. After the mail has been confided to his care, and he lias found some convenient position and assumed a befitting gravity, lie commences to call off the names. First comes a cream -colored envelope upon which is in- scribed, in the most delicate feminine hand, the name of George Washington Johnson •• Mo, sah !" answers a 74 THE PILGRIMAGE young gentleman of Ethiopian extraction, when the mis- sive of constancy is handed over to him, while the boys amuse themselves with such comments as, " It's from his gal." " No, it's a wash-bill." " Smell it, Georgie, and see if she put goose-goose on it." Next comes the name of " Rudolph Bumblestein," and before Rudolph has an opportunity to answer, half a dozen voices are singing out, "That's the Dutch mail." "Cheese it, Jimmy." " Put it on the bottom." " Give us something from New^ York." " Open a down-east bag." William Smith, cries " Jimmy," in stentorian voice, and even this venerable tar, as he answers "here," and reaches forward, is not al- lowed to escape, but is greeted with, " It's from his board- ing master." "They know his time is out." "Look out, Bill, she wants half pay," etc. This continues until the last letter has been claimed ; then those who have been fortunate enough to draw a prize in the epistolary lottery retire to some quiet place that they may fully enjoy the contents, while the unfortunate soothe their wounded expectations with a few " cuss words," among which fa mixed up the mail regulations of the United States in general. After a pleasant stay of eleven days we bid Honolulu farewell, and by the aid of steam and sail, wended our way homeward. The great topic of interest during this passage was, who would be elected President. Both parties were confident, and their party allegiance never abated until the pilot informed us that Jas. A. Garfield was the fortunate candi- date. On the 8th of November, after a passage of fourteen days, the chain rattling through our hawse pipe told that the mission of the " Ticonderoga " had ended. OF THE TICONDEBOGA. 75 CHAPTER XVIII. END HO ! The cruise of the " Ticonderago " has at last happily terminated, after having traveled over two-thirds around the globe, and over a distance of twice its circumference. Besides visiting numberless ports that rank as civilized and navigating the great oceans, our prow has clove the mighty waters of the Gaboon and Congo. We have visited the savage African at his home, taught him our power, gave him to understand that if at any time he dares to molest any vessel trading under our banner, swift retribution will surely follow • that in ten or fifteen years another great war-ship will come and present him more tobacco and flannel, and compel him to promise not to do so again. We have visited and for the first time given to the Persians ocular proof of our national existence. Among the Turks we have left a faint impression that there exists in a far-off country a people who are called Americans, though that they should look like and speak like Englishmen, and not be Englishmen, is something beyond their comprehension. [f the mere fact of making our nationality known was the only good attending our cruise, it would be, even then, far from being in vain. But we have learned that these out-of-the-way places should be often visited. A very good example of this was given us while at 76 THE PILGRIMAGE Madagascar, where, after much talking, one of the dusky monarchs of the island was made to understand that such a place as America did exist, but to impress him with her place among the nations of the earth was simply an im- possibility, for after delivering a eulogy upon our great- ness and resources that might have passed for a number one Fourth of July spread-eagle speech, the king merely replied, " Yes, big nation ; no got much money ; only one ship have got !" He could only judge us from what he had seen of us — a nation of one ship. England keeps a fleet of gunboats continually scouring the coast, ready to pounce upon him on the first intimation of bad faith. Her power he both understands and fears, for he well knows that the same " broadside arguments'' that have been used upon him before will be used again on the first overt act on his part. England parades her power daily before his eyes, and is by him respected, while America and her centennial visits, if not held in contempt, they are soon both forgotten. In writing, as I have had neither the opportunity or desire of peeping behind the official curtain, I have only been able to record events as they have appeared to me. If I have erred, it is but human. As I have before stated, this little book was only in- tended for my fellow-pilgrims, but for fear that it should fall into the hands of others, and perhaps one who is already contemplating a voyage to sea, my humble advice is — young man, save your money and buy a railroad. In the commencement of life you may find it galling to be encumbered with stock, but they will present a greater consolation in your declining years than can ever be derived from the high sounding title of " common sailor." A young man, and a particular friend of mine, who O^ THE TICONDEROGA. 77 essayed forth on this cruise, filled with yellow-covered nautical lore, has for the last two years been purchasing every style of savage war-club. He says now that the cruise is finished he intends to sacrifice the remainder of his life hunting up the man who wrote the " Life on the ocean wave." Our mission is now ended. The remainder of the work we hand over to legislators, merchants, and ship- builders. It rests with them whether the seed sown by he pioneer ship will bring forth good fruit or not. The road to greatness is now open. It rests with them whether in the future America shall cany on the ocean what she buys or sells, or whether she shall pay others to do it for her. Let the two latter only by patriotic mo- tives be guided in their labor for America's greatness, let the former loosen the purse-strings of the nation, then let us all prey. 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