(p^-Lii^S^ -^♦ti I'fl ^0m^ Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2007 with funding from IVIicrosoft Corporation http://www.archive.org/details/adventuresinservOOwrigrich ADVENTURES IN SERVIA. ^ %ktntnn$ in ^^ma: OR THE EXPERIENCES OF A MEDICAL FREE LANCE AMONG THE BASHI-BAZOUKS, ETC. By dr. ALFRED WRIGHT. EDITED BY A. G. FARQUHAR -BERNARD, M.R.C.S., Late Sttrgeon of the Servian Artny. WITH SIXTEEN DRAWIJJG'S .m^ Tli]£ /iSPj^aRi LONDON : W. SWAN SONNENSCHEIN & CO., Paternoster Square. 1884. ^IGINALTOBE BTAINEl) UolS95 -^^-^^ •^'^ Printed by Hjuell, Watson, and Vipey, Limited, London and Aylesbury. PREFACE WHEN my esteemed friend Dr. Wright asked me to edit this work and also to write its preface, I agreed to do so, but not without a con- siderable amount of hesitation and diffidence, for I was loth to run the risk of marring what appeared to be a very excellent book by my own necessarily imperfect workmanship. The good doctor, however, placed the matter before me in such a light, that I felt constrained to comply with his wishes. I cannot lay claim to the "pen of a ready writer," therefore I trust the pubhc will excuse what may appear to them to be a halting style. And now to the real business of my preface. I have the author's word for it that at least three out of every four of the incidents herein narrated really took place, and that to the fourth only such proportion of romantic dressing and spicery has 'jari^fia PREFACE. been added as would enable it to harmonize with the rest. Moreover, I am desired to state that every cha- racter depicted in these pages had its living prototype. Thus Marie, Colonel Bragg, Savrimovitch, Colonel Philipovitch, the ruffian Pauloflf, Dr. Ibaum, etc., represent real personages, whose names even, in some cases, have been preserved. The quarrel with Von Tummy, the upsetting of the waggon, the fight for the bed, the pig incident, the occupation of the cottage, the description of the battle, are all fairly accurately described ; and the conversations with Russian officers about India and with the Nihilists are reported almost verbatim. Facts are stubborn and eloquent things, and I can say nothing stronger in behalf of these pages than that they treat, for the most part, of absolute facts. My duty to Dr. Wright prohibits me from draw- ing this preface to a close without making some reference to the painful circumstance that my dis- tinguished friend has as yet received no considerable token of the public favour. As he pathetically puts it, " Monarchs don't seek his medical advice, kings consult him not, and sovereigns neither summon him to their sick-bed sides, nor find their way, in another sense, into his coffers." PREFACE. The doctor says he occasionally sees a person clad in prints, but never any one ^*en prince," and he reminds me, moreover, that though Pope lays it down as an axiom, that " what ever is, is Wrights!^ yet he gets hardly any of it at all. Now this, I maintain, emphatically and without fear of contradiction, ought not to be, and I would respectfully intimate to the potentates of Europe, that unless they patronize the illustrious doctor more largely than they have hitherto done, there is some fear of his throwing physic to the dogs, and becoming, if not a Nihilist, at least a desperate Radical. I state this entirely on my own responsibility. May those whom it directly concerns take it seriously to heart. A. G. F. B. ADVENTURES IN SERVIA. CHAPTER I. LATE in July 1876, whilst the war between Turkey and Servia was at its height, I, at that time a medical student, resolved to pay a visit to the latter country with the double view of making myself useful, and of gaining experience in the profession I was striving to enter. I mentioned my project to my particular friend and chum, Henry Winter, of whom I shall speak for the future by the sobriquet he had received from the students at our classical hospital — viz., Hiems. Hiems fell in with the idea at once, and agreed to accompany me. As a preliminary step we wrote letters to several news- papers announcing our intention and our readiness to take charge of stores for the sick and wounded at the seat of the war. We were soon overwhelmed with packages of pills, jars of extract of beef, bales of cotton-wool, parcels of lint and bandages, and bottles of quinine, etc., etc. These, with a case of surgical instruments, a cutlass and I 10 ADVENTURES IN SERVIA, revolver apiece, and a somewhat scanty supply of cloth- ing, which included, nevertheless, our volunteer uniforms, each adorned with a Geneva cross on the arm, and our preparations were complete. The day of our departure arrived. We proudly donned our uniforms, which, though rather the worse for wear, still had the advantage of looking as if they had seen service, and took our places in the train. We intended to travel to Vienna by rail, and from thence to Belgrade by the Danube steamer. Our journey was uneventful, except that our uniforms attracted more attention than was altogether pleasant. The French mistook us for Germans, and scowled angrily at us, and the Germans took us for Frenchmen, and regarded us with cold hostility. In fact, wherever we went, people seemed to wonder who on earth we were, and what the dickens we wanted. At Salzburg we were accosted by a stately and elegantly-attired lady of middle age, who informed us that she was the Princess Woronzoff, and saying that she was delighted to see Englishmen espousing the Servian cause, jequested us to convey the sum of five Napoleons from her to the Servian sufferers by the war. This we promised to do, and she bade us farewell. We arrived at Vienna late on a Friday evening, and stayed there until Sunday morning, putting up for the time at the Goldenes Lamm Hotel ; and Hiems utilised the time by coaching me up in the broad-sword exercise, at which he was a proficient. He was particularly careful THE HANGING GUARD POSITION. ii to teach me the hanging guard position, and I flatter myself that I learnt it thoroughly. It certainly is a very striking attitude, and when my cap was cocked properly on one side, and I had my big boots on, I must have looked very killing. The next morning we repaired to the steamboat quay, full of eager anticipations of what we considered would be the most interesting and picturesque part of our journey, for Strauss's favourite waltz had led us to believe that the Danube was both beautiful and blue. We were, however, grievously sold. From Vienna to Belgrade, there is simply no scenery at all. The banks of the river are flat and dreary-looking, and the water itself is brown and dirty, so we soon turned our attention to our compagnons de voyage. In the boat with us were a dozen handsome lads, all clothed alike in dark-grey tourist suits, and who seemed to be under the charge of a tall, military-looking man. We ascertained that they were some of the King of Bavaria's pages. These lads appeared to be greatly impressed .by our romantic uniforms and martial appearance, and presently one or two of them, who spoke English fairly well, entered into conversation with us. They were particu- larly curious to see our cutlasses. We showed them the weapons ; and I believe that I made a profound impres- sion upon them, and convinced them of the invincibility of English seamen by frowning fiercely and trying to 12 ADVENTURES IN SERVIA. show, cutlass in hand, the hanging guard I had so recently acquired. The jealous Hiems endeavoured to dissuade me from flourishing my sword, by the remark that the young Germans would only laugh at me. I did not believe him, and am happy to say that my efforts extorted from one of my audience the acknowledgment that he thought Englishmen were very brave and hardy, and that he attributed their love of adventure to the rough nature of their sports, such as " the football and the cricket," and so forth. A corpulent little Hungarian doctor, too, watched our proceedings with great interest, and very politely proffered .us each a cigar. " Gentlemen," said he, when we had all three lit up, ** is it true that you are going on the Servian side?" " Quite true," responded Hiems, puffing vigorously at his cigar and nodding. **And you are Englishmen, born in England?" in- terrogated our new friend. ** We are Englishmen, but not born in England," responded Hiems. "I was born in Ireland." " And I in India," said I. " An Englishman, bom in India ! " replied the Hun- garian lifting up his eyes and hands with astonishment ; " and yet you are going on the Servian side ! It is amazing ! It is incredible ! Don't you know that the Russians are the enemies of your country, and that they want to get Constantinople ? " " I know that we fought them and beat them in the Crimea," replied I. HUNGARIAN CURIOSITY. " Yes, and England did very well ; she did right then. And what are you going on the Servian side now for? Don't you know they are the same as the Russians, and that the Russians have got up this war? Why are you not on the Turkish side ? " Hiems repHed that we went as medical men, and not as combatants. " That's worse," answered our little friend ; "for as fast as the Turks knock a man over, you set him on his legs again ! " " Then again," said I, " the Servians are short of medical men." "So much the better," said this bloodthirsty little Magyar, " the war will be over all the sooner then. No, no j you take my advice, and go over to the Turks ! " His Russo-phobism did not prevent him from chatting very pleasantly with us afterwards, and he proved a most agreeable and interesting companion. Dinner was served in the saloon at seven o'clock. Our Hungarian friend and a large party, however, did not dine then, but stationed themselves at the other end of the saloon, where I heard him telling the others that we were Englishmen. " They are EngUshmen, Englishmen ! " said he, with a graceful wave of his handkerchief towards us ; " and one of them was born in India. They eat a good dinner, you see. They have each had a plate of soup and a beefsteak with eggs, and some sweets, and now they will both have coffee. Ah, no ! One of them, you see, has 14 ADVENTURES IN SERVIA. tea " (here he stepped quietly up and looked over our shoulders), " and the other has coffee. Englishmen," he repeated, as he retired on tip-toe to his seat again ; "Englishmen — one of them born in India — and they have eaten a most excellent dinner ! " When the boat stopped at Pesth our eccentric little acquaintance went on shore; we remained some time longer to see our luggage transferred to the Belgrade boat, which lay alongside our own, and met him no more. *' Five o'clock ! Belgrade in half an hour ! " such were the sounds which, roared in a stentorian voice by the steward, roused me from a pleasant sleep, the sixth morning after we left Charing Cross. I was wide awake in an instant, and dressing quickly hastened on deck; but a thick mist hung on the river, and Belgrade was still invisible. The sun's rays soon, however, dissipated the haze, and there, within a few hundred yards of us, lay Belgrade, an imposing array of white-walled, green- roofed buildings and churches with glittering spires, rising terrace on terrace to a considerable height above the water's edge. It looked so bright and beautiful that Hiems and I were in ecstacies of delight, and congratu- lated each other again and again on having selected so charming a spot for the basis of our operations. The boat presently drew up alongside the jetty, and a tall Servian official in a smart blue uniform with very broad scarlet stripes down the sides of his pantaloons stepped on board and collected all the passengers' passports. THE HLTNGAKIAN GENTLEMAN TELLS HIS FKIENDS THAT WE ARE MAKING AN UNCOMMONLY GOOD DINNER. Tojace p. 14.] i BELGRADE. 15 Then came a number of drowsy-looking porters, who began to overhaul the luggage and solicit patronage for the different hotels. We selected one who seemed more active and was tidier than his fellows, and instructed him to convey our things to his hotel, the " Konigin von Griechenland." The man instantly summoned four or five assistants, each of whom, in an indolent and casual manner, commenced dragging one or two of our packages after him. We followed their chief up a steep flight of steps, cut in the hill or cliff on which Belgrade stands, and they followed us, droning a dismal and most unmelodious ditty in chorus. These steps were converted by a number of beggars into a kind of rag and deformity bazaar. On one of the lower steps sat a miserable creature, who, from some freak of nature, had been born without any arms ; at the other end of the same step sat a blind, toothless old man, who mumbled forth a request for a piastre, and who was clad in such unsavoury garments that we felt almost plague- stricken as we passed ; a little above was a frightful dwarf, a victim apparently of goitre ; above him again was a man whom accident or war had deprived of both legs ; then came a deaf and dumb woman ; and so on right away up to the top of the steps. The " Konigin von Griechenland " was not an im- posing-looking edifice ; however, it seemed as good as any of the other hotels, and was fairly comfortable. We were shown into a bright, clean-looking room with two beds in it. Here we had a glorious wash and changed i6 ADVENTURES IN SERVIA. our linen, and then went down into the coffee-room, where some dozen persons were smoking cigarettes, drinking coffee, and playing billiards. For breakfast they brought us excellent coffee, fresh eggs, and white bread-and-butter. Seated at the next table was a portly old priest with flowing locks and a rosy — a suspiciously rosy — face. For some time this reverend gentleman surveyed us minutely, carefully, and critically. Nothing from the top of our caps to the soles of our boots, and from our black cross- belts to the little red Geneva crosses embroidered on our arms, escaped his scrutiny. At length he rose with slow and dignified gravity, and bowed, and saying some words in a language which neither of us understood, seated himself opposite to us at our table. As he was a priest, we rose and returned his salute, and then shook our heads to betoken our ignorance of his language. Nodding to us again, the new-comer beckoned solemnly to one of the waiters, and gave him some instructions in an undertone. Then turning to us with a smile and another nod, he said, interrogatively, **Ingleski?" (English.) Hiems said "Ja" and I said "Oui" in our best German and French. The priestly face beamed with smiles, and then the waiter brought in three large glass flagons of foaming ale. The priest pushed one of these to Hiems, another to me, and taking the third himself, he motioned to us to drink. As we raised the glasses from the table he clinked his against ours with much cordiality and LINGUISTIC EFFORTS. 17 another series of smiles and nods. Then leaning back on his seat and folding his hands on his lap, he sur- veyed us again. At last it occurred to Hiems to try him with German ; so pulling himself together and pro- nouncing his words as carefully as possible, he said, — **Sprechen Sie Deutsch, mein Herr?" "Ne — nein," replied the priest, shaking his head once more. " I'm afraid it's no go," said Hiems, with a sigh ; " and it's a pity, too, for he seems an uncommonly nice old fellow. I wish we could have expressed our apprecia- tion of his kindness better than by grinning and nodding at him." " So do I," said I ; " but I don't see how we're to do it, except by getting him to drink with us." Hiems reflected for a moment, then suddenly brighten- ing up, said to me, " You know you used to be a swell at Latin at school, old chap. Try if you can't polish up some of it now. I have heard that all foreign priests talk Latin." " That's not at all a bad idea of yours, Hiems," said 1, not without a little pride. "What shall I say to him?" " Say — why say, ' How do you do ? ' to him, and ask him to have another drink." " Confound it, Hiems, ask me to say something sensible. How the dickens do you expect me to translate sentences like that ? " *' What ! can't you translate them? " asked Hiems. 1 8 ADVENTURES IN SERVIA. " No, of course not," replied I. " The Romans never said things of that sort to one another." " What dummies they must have been, then," replied my friend in disgust. For a few seconds we were silent. All at once Hiems brightened up again. " What is the Latin for ' This ' ? " said he. " What ? " said I, not knowing what he was alluding to. " This" said he again with considerable emphasis. " Which ? " said I, quite puzzled. " What a fellow you are ! Why This, the article, noun^ adjective, pronoun, or whatever you like to call it^ —This." " Oh ah ! Now I see," said I, perceiving that he meant the word this. The Latin for this is Hie." "Why could not you have said so before then?" replied he, tartly ; " and what is the Latin for is ? " " Est," rejoined I, without a moment's hesitation. " And for * beautiful ' ? " "Pulcher." " Now we are getting on," said Hiems ; " and for *beer'?" " I don't know. Call it wine, vinum." "All right; that will do, I suppose." Then to the priest, " Hie est pulcher vinum." For a moment our companion was puzzled. Then his face beamed with a smile of intelligence. He nodded, grasped Hiems by the hand, and said, — A FUNERAL CORTEGE. 19 " Bibamus alterum poculum." Then he began to speak Latin so fast and fluently that I could not catch a single word. But before the waiter could be called I was relieved from my embarrass- ment by the sound of martial music in the street. Every one — priest, billiard players, and ourselves — hastened to the window and looked out. A long and solemn pro- cession was approaching — the funeral cortege of an officer who had been mortally wounded in the recent fighting. At the head of the column marched a military band play ing the Servian Dead March, then twelve priests with banners and flags, a regiment with arms reversed, and last of all the coffin borne on the shoulders of eight men. The lid of the coffin, as is the custom in Servia, was removed, so that the pale face of the dead man was visible. His breast was covered with flowers; two soldiers marched behind, one bearing his sword and the other his cap. The procession slowly filed past, and when we looked round — lo ! our jolly friend the priest had disappeared. CHAPTER II. LEFT to ourselves, we held a consultation as to what our next step should be. We both fancied that Servia was a very small country, and imagined that we were but a moderate distance from the front. This illusion was quickly dispelled by the maitre d'hStel. From him we learned that the scene of action was at least one hundred miles away, also that an English officer, Colonel Bragg, who commanded a newly-raised squadron of cavalry, was then in Belgrade. This was indeed acceptable news. His camp, we were told, was only about two miles away, at a place called Topchidere, on the other side of the town, and we determined to offer our services at once. It was now about half-past ten o'clock, and intensely hot. There was not a cloud in the bright blue sky, and the sun's rays beat down with fierce and dazzling power on the white and dusty streets. We, therefore, fortified our muffin-shaped forage caps with puggarees, after the Indian fashion. Amongst other things I had brought out with me were a pair of india-rubber half Wellington boots, very loose about the uppers, and shiny like goloshes. I was rather proud of these, and being COLONEL BRAGG. 2i anxious to make a favourable impression on my dis- tinguished fellow-countryman, I determined, in spite of Hiems' protest that they were " ridiculous," to wear them. After a dusty walk we arrived at Topchidere. The cavalry camp, which contained only a score or two of tents, was in a large field. We had no difficulty in find- ing Colonel Bragg's quarters, being directed thither by a good-natured little doctor, who introduced himself to us as Dr. Ibaum, and offered us each a pinch of snuff. Our reception by the colonel was not encouraging. He was talking to a tall, good-looking young fellow, who turned out to be the special artist of an English illustrated paper, and as he approached we heard him say,— " Who the are these beggars, and what the do they want here, I wonder? " The artist looked towards us, and burst out laughing. Nothing daunted, however, we walked up to the tent, and Hiems, saluting politely," said, — '' Colonel Bragg, I believe ? " '*Hulloh!" said the colonel to his friend, "they're English!" (Then to us.) "Yes, Bragg's my name. What can I do for you?" " We are medical students, just arrived from England* and hearing that you were organising a body of cavalry, we have come to offer you our services," said Hiems. "D d good of you," said the colonel, "but I don't think we want any surgeons. What stores have you got with you?" ADVENTURES IN SEE VIA. We replied that we had a good supply of quinine, Ipecacuanha, Condy's fluid, opium, strapping, bandages, cotton-wool, prepared oakum, lint, etc. " Hum — well, you can send them over here, if you like, and I'll just think the matter over; but — you were never going to the front in those idiotical boots, were you, sir?" said he to me. " Indeed I was, sir," said I, rather angrily, for his contemptuous tone and manner of speaking nettled me. " More fool you, then," said the colonel. I was so incensed at his rudeness that I turned on my heel and would have left him there and then, had he not sung out in a kinder tone, — " Come, come, my lad, don't be riled. I'm a blunt soldier, and always speak my mind. Shake hands ; there ! " and he held out his hand with a rough good- nature that almost made amends. " By the way, though, my lad," said he, " if you can't take a joke in good part, you'll hardly do for a cam- paigner ; blows are harder to bear than jokes." "Not when you can return them, sir," replied I, haughtily. "Well spoken," said the colonel. "So you are really anxious to go to the front?" "Yes," we both replied in a breath, "and we don't mind if we get a Httle fighting as well as doctoring," added Hiems. "Well," said the colonel, with a fierce twirl of his moustache, " I guess you'll get a good chance of both DR. IBAUM. 23 if you come with me. I shall not forget you, only bear in mind that it will probably be two or three weeks before we shall leave for the front, for my men beat creation for stupidity at drill, and will want a lot of licking into shape before they'll be fit to face the Turks. What's your hotel ? " We told him. " Very well, then ; you'll hear from me before we leave. Good morning ; " and lighting another cigarette, the colonel turned away from us and resumed his conversa- tion with the artist. We left the camp, not over well pleased with our reception, and were walking moodily homewards, when we were hailed by a loud *' Yai ! Gospodina ! " and, looking back, we beheld a soldier running after us, with a piece of paper in his hand. On taking the paper we found the following words written on it, " Dr. Ibaum make to the English gentlemen his esteem, and will say to them a few words." The soldier pointed to our right, and there was the doctor, snuff-box in one hand and hat in the other, beaming on us with the kindliest of smiles. '*Eh !" said he, "my dear friend, you have seen the Inglis camp, eh ? And how love you Kol-o-nel Bragg, eh?" We replied that we thought Colonel Bragg a first-rate soldier, but that we were disappointed to learn that he was not going to the front for two or three weeks, as we were anxious to get to work immediately. 24 ADVENTURES IM SERVIA. " You will to work now, aha ! Then I will say what I will do," said the little doctor, puckering up his face into a look of the most unfathomable profundity. " The Minister of the Health here, Dr. Savar Petrovitch, is great friend to me." Here he drew himself up and looked very important. '' I will speak to him for you, and he shall make you some work very soon — quick — aha — eh ? " We made an effort to thank him, but he stopped us at once. "For what," said he, "will you thank me? All Inglismen my friend ; I love him. But you, you will to work for my country ; why will you then to thank me ? No, no, I thank you ! I will now," continued he, " to walk with you some way. Will you let — eh, my Inglis friend?" We were only too glad of his company, and the kind- hearted little man was good enough to walk back with us as far as our hotel, and when he left us, it was with a promise to call for us the next morning, and accompany us to the offices of Dr. Savar Petrovitch, the Minister of Health. CHAPTER III. TRUE to his promise, Dr. Ibaum called for us at ten o'clock the next morning, and accompanied us to the War Office, where we were introduced to Dr. Petrovitch. Dr. Petrovitch received us kindly. He was a small, slightly made, but good-looking man, with dark eyes, whiskers, and moustache, and spoke French very fluently. We informed him that we were anxious to go to the front, but he replied with a smile that they had plenty of medical men there, but were greatly in want of them at Semendria and Belgrade. *' You can choose between the two places," he said. ** Belgrade is the more agreeable ; there is more society there, and you won't be so dull. On the other hand. Dr. Ibaum works at Semendria, and will look after you if you go there. I have promised Baron Von Tummey, our inspector of hospitals, not to send any more surgeons to Deligrad, but to keep them for our hospitals at Semen- dria and Belgrade." This was terribly disappointing, and we should pro- bably have declined the offer, in the hope of getting to Deligrad with Colonel Bragg, but for Dr. Ibaum. 26 ADVENTURES IN SERVIA. "Come you with me," he said, coaxingly. "You shall be glad all the tay long. You shall eat— ah ! very much and good — and you shall drink — oh ! you shall drink wine and beer and cafe ; you shall have horse and you shall have dog ; you shall have money, — oh ! much money, — and you shall not work." " That won't do for us," said I. " We want to work. We have come here for the sake of working." " Aha ! " said the little man, his eyes gleaming with satisfaction ; " you will to work, you shall work then — plenty work — as much as you will to do, and you shall have money. How much money will you to have ? " We replied that we would be content with £,2 per week and board and lodging. " Yes, yes ; you will to have two pound Inglis per the week — yes, that is vier ducaten " (four ducats). " Yes, 1 will speak with Dr. Petrovitch. Will you so good to wait one minute ? Aha ! I come quick back." And, taking Dr. Petrovitch by the arm, he left the room with him for a moment When they returned, Ibaum bore in his hand a couple of papers. " Gentlemen," said Dr. Petrovitch, in French, " we are quite willing to engage you as assistant surgeons at a salary of four ducats a week ; we will provide you, more- over, with board and lodging. I cannot promise that you shall go to the front, but you shall not be forgotten should an opportunity offer. Will you allow me to see your passports and certificates ? " THE CONTRACT SIGNED. 27 We complied with his wish, and finding the documents satisfactory, the papers before mentioned were handed to us to sign, apd we were informed that our engagement was completed. No one perhaps was better able to revive drooping spirits than cheerful, chatty, little Dr. Ibaum. After the arrangements were made, out came the inevitable snuff- box. He insisted on our taking a pinch, then linked his arms in ours, and led us out of the room. " Now, my dear friends," said he, looking from one to the other of us, and giving us both a gentle pat on the back, " we shall be no more grievous. If you will be sad, I will, too, to be sad, but we will not be grievous. After our work we have done, we will sing Inglis song and Servian song, and we will dance ; " and suiting his actions to his words, he adopted a dancing step and broke out into a merry tra-la-la ! That evening we dined with the doctor at his hotel. He was an excellent host, and gave us a first-rate dinner a la serbe. We began with papricash, a kind of tomato soup. Then came caviare, fried schill, and cray-fish, then pork cutlets and beefsteaks served with potatoes and poached eggs. Portions of roast goose and roast turkey figured most conspicuously in the meat course. Then we had sweet omelettes and pancakes called palachinkas, and wound up with dessert and coffee. For drinks we had a native wine called Vaslauer, which resembled Burgundy in colour and flavour; champagne, and a spirit made from plums, called sligievitch, which had an 28 ADVENTURES IN SERVIA. agreeable odour, but, to my mind, a most horrible taste. After dinner the doctor waxed very jovial and communi- cative, " I lof," he said, " ze Englis charactaire. Ze Englismans lof horses and togs ; all Englismans lof horses and togs, and will hunt much. When I have knowed ze excellent good Englis charactaire, then have I self taught mine self ze Englis tongue, and speaks him not fine, but so also too not wicked. Shortly afterwards our papers arrived from the War Office, and Dr. Ibaum informed us that we were to start for Semendria at six in the morning. CHAPTER IV. NEXT morning the doctor made his appearance with mihtary punctuaUty. We breakfasted to- gether and paid our reckoning, and left the hotel, much to the disappointment of the landlord, who doubtless had hoped that we should stay a week or two with him. Nevertheless the good man was overwhelmingly polite, and accompanied us to the top of the steps leading to the landing-place, where he remained bowing and rubbing his hands as long as we could see him. Before embarking we had to run the gauntlet of the beggars, who displayed their deformities and mumbled for piastres with redoubled vigour as we approached. Dr. Ibaum looked at them kindly with a complacent satisfaction. He evidently regarded them as pathological curiosities, and appeared to be as proud of them as a cockney of the most famous lions of London. He stopped and spoke to a great many of them, and gave a copper or two to all. A dirty little steamer was waiting at the quay. We went straight on board with our baggage, and as soon as we had stowed it away made ourselves comfortable in the fore part of the boat. The scenery became rather .30 ADVENTURES IN SEE VIA. more picturesque as we left Belgrade. On the Servian side of the Danube the ground undulates, and forms a succession of slight eminences, upon one of which Belgrade is built. Just opposite to us, on the flat Hungarian shore, was an Austrian block house, in front of which paced a sen- tinel, whose bayonet glittered brightly in the sun. At some distance off we saw a large town, which Dr. Ibaum told us was Semlin. The water here was anything but clear, still it was not so muddy as we had seen it higher up. The Danube is so shallow in the greater part of its course that vessels drawing more than three or four feet of water have to proceed with the greatest caution. We were going with the stream, which was very strong, yet I don't think the boat throughout the journey ever went at a greater rate than seven or eight knots an hour, so that we were afloat nearly three hours, although the distance between Belgrade and Semendria is barely twenty miles. However, the weather was lovely, and the air fresh and pleasant, the sun not having as yet attained its full strength. The arrival of a steamboat was evidently a remarkable event at Semendria, for the landing-place was crowded with people. The majority of them were dressed d la Turque^ in baggy knickerbockers, jackets, and fezzes ; only a few wore European costume. Our uniforms at once made us objects of such interest, that we were followed about by a crowd, much to the delight of A DIRTY HOSPITAL, 31 Dr. Ibaum, who astonished the multitude by speaking in English. The hospital at which we were to work was a tumble-down wooden building of two stories. It stood some twenty yards back from the roadway, and the ground in front was fenced with a rough, irregular wooden paling. In one corner of this enclosure stood a disused pig-stye, which gave forth a very disagreeable and piggish odour. The hospital was built on a most irregular plan. It jutted out here and went in there in the oddest fashion. The upper storey was reached from the outside by a rickety wooden flight of steps, which sloped into the yard. We were met as we entered the latter by Dr. Ibaum's colleague. Dr. Lazar Stephanovitch, a short, thick-set, coarse-looking man, who conducted us into one of the wards on the ground floor. This was a room some thirty feet long by fifteen wide, paved with tiles, and lighted by eight small windows, four on each side. The windows did not open, and there being no other means of ventilation than the door, the stench was terrible. The floor, too, was in a very dirty condition. In this delightful place some twenty wounded men were lying on as many beds. Every now and then one of them would utter an exclamation of pain, but the majority of them bore their suff"erings patiently, and some were even chatting cheerily. There were no female nurses in the establishment, their places being taken by soldiers chosen for the duty by lot. These men did not strike me at first sight as being suited to the work. Like most of the Servian peasantry, they were clumsy, good- 32 ADVENTURES IN SERVIA. natured simpletons. I saw directly that there would be plenty for us to do, and wished to set to work at once ; but Dr. Stephanovitch informed me that their patients' wounds had all been dressed for the day. I pointed to the windows, and expressed my dissatisfaction at the ventilation. He replied that the building was a make- shift for a hospital, and that they were compelled to make the best they could of it. Then, after addressing a kind word or two to each patient, the doctors invited us to accompany them through the other wards, of which there were three. Throughout the hospital I found the condition of things much the same. The men had fairly comfortable beds, and were well fed, but there was an utter want of ventilation, of cleanliness, and, as I have already stated, of properly qualified nurses. Dr. Ibaum also told me that they were very short of splints, bandages, and disinfectants, and that our supplies would be most acceptable, so we arranged to send them into the hospital that evening. Neither he nor Dr. Stephanovitch would accept the money we had collected in London, so we enclosed it in a letter, and sent it off to Dr. Petro- vitch at the War Office. The two doctors informed us that they began work at the hospital at six in the morning — and usually completed their rounds by ten o'clock, after which they took it in turns to remain on duty for the rest of the day. We were requested to be there at six also, and they expected to receive in a day or two a large batch of wounded men from the front, so that SEMENDRIA. 33 we must be prepared for hard work. We had some little difficulty in finding any lodgings within a conve- nient distance of the hospital, and were compelled to be content with a large room in a pretty one-storied house, the front of which was overgrown with flowering creepers. The room looked clean, and had a large window which opened on to a little piece of front garden. The bed linen, we were glad to observe, was snow-white. We asked Dr. Ibaum to settle the terms, and after a little chaflering with the landlord, he arranged that we were to pay one ducat a week lor board and lodging — terms which we considered astoundingly moderate, although Dr. Ibaum informed us they were very high, and explained that he had not been able to manage better for us, because the war had forced up the price of everything. When we had secured the room, the kind little doctor invited us to accompany him to the house of a relative who was overseer of the extensive vineyard belonging to Prince Milan in the neighbourhood of Semendria, from which he acquires a considerable portion of his revenue. After a delightful walk through an undulating and beautifully wooded country we reached the vineyard. The house of the overseer, M. Ristovitch, stood on a little eminence in the centre of the vineyard, com- manding a view over a great part of the estate. Our approach, therefore, was soon perceived, and with true Servian hospitality M. Ristovitch came forth to meet us, and invited us to join his family. The party con- sisted of M. Ristovitch and his wife,— a comely middle- 34 ADVENTURES IN SERVIA. aged lady, — Mademoisell'e Ristovitch, — a pretty brunette with beautiful dark eyes and luxuriant black hair, — and a Bulgarian girl, Mademoiselle Miloikovitch, taller and slighter than her companion. There was a restlessness and self-possession in the manner of this fair Bulgarian which reminded me considerably of Miss , the popular EngHsh burlesque actress, whose voice, too, hers much resembled. We were soon on the most friendly terms, and odd as it may seem, our quickly-formed intimacy was in some measure attributable to the mosquitoes with which the house and vineyard swarmed. The Servian name for mosquitoes is Kamaratz, and we excited not a little amusement by calling them Karamatz, which, I believe, means elephant, or some other huge animal. From the attacks of these pests our entertainers, both ladies and gentlemen, defended us in a manner at once original and simple. While I was speaking, a mosquito settled upon my face. M. Ristovitch perceived it, and promptly succoured me by crushing the insect between his finger and my skin ; and this proceeding, which was frequently repeated, was as amusing to us as our mis-pronunciation of Kamaratz was to them — nay, more, the younger ladies especially came to our assistance so frequently, and with such bewitching grace, that they made a very deep impression upon our too susceptible hearts. Hiems was captivated by the beautiful Servian, and I was led in chains by the lovely Bulgarian. After dinner tobacco and cigarette papers were produced, and we all — ladies A FRIGHTFUL COLD! 35 as well as gentlemen — fell to smoking and drinking coffee. Before leaving England I entertained a narrow-minded and bigoted objection to ladies smoking, but the charm- ing grace with which these fair Sclav damsels put a cigarette to their pretty lips, took a little whiff, and then with an elegant turn of the wrist and play of the hand, removed it, breathing forth small puffs and wreaths of fragrant smoke, caused my prejudices to melt away. Presently the young ladies sat down to the piano and discoursed excellent music, and Mademoiselle Miloikovitch sang a Bulgarian love song, of which I did not under- stand a single word, — more's the pity, — to a quaint and plaintive melody. Then, to our dismay, we were called upon to contribute to the entertainment. Hiems, who could play a little, strummed forth his stock waltz, "The Beautiful Blue Danube." This our entertainers seemed to regard as a special compliment to them and their muddy river, and they applauded enthusiastically. Then came my turn. My treacherous friend declared that I had a superb voice, and sang exquisitely. This absolutely false statement filled me with confusion and despair. In vain did I cough and use my handkerchief, and protest that I had a frightful cold. My villainous comrade told them not to believe me, so the two ladies, particularly Mademoiselle Miloikovitch, led me firmly but gently to the piano, and fixing their lovely eyes upon me, alternately coaxed and commanded me to sing an English song. My repertoire at that time was very limited, consisting only of " God 36 ADVENTURES IN SERVIA. save the Queen," and the " Perfect Cure ! " I selected the former, and sang it as well as I could to a one-finger accompaniment, played by myself. They recognised the air immediately, and joined us in the chorus most harmoniously, and after it was over, were pleased to greet my humble and discordant effort with prolonged applause. Emboldened by this success I was tempted to sing the "Cure," much to their delight and amusement Dr. Ibaum seemed more pleased than any one else, for he clapped his hands and shouted *' Bravo ! Bravissimo ! " until he was hoarse, and then went about informing every one that these were real English songs. When he had somewhat recovered from his excitement, he sat down to the piano himself, and shouting out, " Dance, dance!" he commenced playing in admirable style the " Soldaten Lieder " waltz. At this the girls signalled to us to help them, and we wheeled the furniture from the centre of the room, and then . . . Alas ! the pleasantest meeting comes to an end. When we had had a few most delicious waltzes, Dr. Ibaum informed us that it was time to set our faces homeward again, so we thanked our new acquaintances for their hospitality, and prepared to bid them adieu. All insisted, however, on accompanying us to the vineyard boundary. Presently our revolvers became objects of interest. Ristovitch and Ibaum expressed a desire to see their effect upon the stump of an old tree. We readily com- plied with their request, but our revolvers being " Bull- A SUDDEN CHANGE. 37 dogs," weapons that make a tremendous report, and with which it is almost impossible to hit anything, the shooting was very indifferent. Mademoiselle Ristovitch put her fingers in her ears, and gave a pretty little scream every time we fired, but Mademoiselle Miloikovitch seemed greatly interested, and presently, to my surprise, asked me to load the weapon for her, and to allow her to have a shot. I did so after some remonstrance. As I handed the pistol to her, a singular change came over her face ; the fresh colour died away from her cheeks, the amiable light in her eyes was replaced by a fierce sparkle, and her lips were sternly compressed together. Taking a steady aim, she fired three successive shots at the tree, and the third time succeeded in hitting it. Dr. Ibaum subsequently informed me that several of her relations had been massacred by the Turks in 1875, and that she herself had shot two Bashi-Bazouks in making her escape. CHAPTER V. BESIDES the Servian hospital to which we were attached, there was another in Semendria, supported by the Russian Red Cross Society, and of which all the staff were Russians. On our return we found awaiting us an invitation to spend the evening with the Russian doctors, and as Ibaum was going, too, we accompanied him. We were received with hearty courtesy, and as we expressed a wish to see their hospital, they very kindly took us over it. The arrangements there were as excel- lent as those at our place were faulty. The ventilation was first-rate, the wards were beautifully clean, and the air in them smelt fresh and pure. Venetian blinds to the windows tempered the heat of the sun. There were four wards, each of which contained about twenty wounded men, and to each ward was a trained nurse. These nurses, indeed, were lady medical students. When we entered, one of these ladies was applying a bandage to a man's arm with a skill that I have never seen surpassed. Adjoining the hospital was the house in which Dr. Cutemoff and the rest of the staff resided, — a long one- storied building, with rooms of considerable size. The evening being cool and pleasant, a table had been taken LIBERAL CONSERVATIVE. 39 in the garden and spread with a substantial meal. Tea, coffee, beer, wine, spirits, sardines, preserves, caviare, soda- water in syphons, jars of tobacco, books of cigarette- papers, grapes, and jugs of milk were displayed in tempting profusion. After we had all partaken of this good cheer, the tobacco and cigarette papers were handed round, and a general and cosmopolitan conversation began. Only three of the lady medicals were present, the other one remaining on duty at the hospital ; but the three who honoured us with their presence were really shining lights in their way. None of them could be called beautiful, but they all had clever and intelligent faces. The plainest of the trio, indeed, a Mademoiselle Dinah Mitykoff, struck me as being the cleverest. The conversation was carried on by different members of the company in French, German, Russian, and English, amid the clattering of glasses and clouds of tobacco smoke. This Mademoiselle Dinah Mitykoff, next to whom I was sitting, began by abruptly asking me if I was a radical. **No," replied I, "I am a liberal conservative." She fixed her eyes upon me (they were blue eyes, not very large, but uncommonly sharp and bright) with a somewhat contemptuous expression, and then after a short pause blew forth from her lips a cloud of cigarette smoke, which completely concealed her face for a moment, and asked me " why I was not a radical." ** Because I appreciate law and order, and dislike extreme views and measures," replied I, somewhat 40 ADVENTURES IN SERVIA. nettled at her contemptuous manner; ''and radicalism means the subversion of order, and consists of nothing but extreme views and measures." Again she looked at me with the same aggravating expression; then she said, "When you are older and wiser, sir, you will know that radicalism means pro- gress." Considering that she did not seem more than a year or two older than myself, her rebuke amused me greatly. I replied, however, that I did not admit that radicalism was synonymous with progress ; on the contrary, I thought it tended to disorder and chaos, and consequently retrogression, and I added that most eminent radicals were either furious fanatics or unpractical dreamers. " You are wrong, monsieur," said she. " We radicals are the most practical people in the world, and, for ray part, unless I believed in the progress of mankind in this real and tangible world towards greater liberty, happi- ness, and knowledge, I should discard all faith in religion. Mark my words, the time is not far distant — nay, it is almost at hand — when kings and emperors will be swept aside, and even distinctions of nationality will cease to exist. The whole human race will live together in har- mony and brotherly love, and though my country seems one of the most backward now, she will be foremost in leading to the change." '* Amen," said Dr. Knifem, one of the surgeons, in a deep voice, moving his chair closer to us. " The changes Mademoiselle Dinah ?*litykoff foresees will assuredlycome RADICALISM. soon, but they will be preceded by a universal and terrible revolution — a tornado which will blow away the tyrannies and abuses that now infest and poison the world. Then, woe betide the enemies of human progress ! " "What will you do to them? Will you cut their throats ? " said I, with a smile. *'Yes, like rats," said he, a fierce gleam shooting across his face. " You are a radical, I presume ? " said I. " I am an enemy to tyrants and a friend of liberty. Call me what you like, — radical, socialist, or nihilist, — anything you please," replied he. " But, my good sir," said I, " there are great numbers of persons who, like myself, believe themselves to be really greater friends of progress than you radicals, but who are strongly opposed to extreme measures and revolu- tion. Are we, too, to be knocked on the head ? " "You must decide for yourself, sir, which side you take when the critical time comes, and if you choose the wrong side, you will have only yourself to thank if you suffer for it." " And you are so convinced that your views are right, that you would make war on other nations to promulgate them." "Yes, we would make war on tyrants," replied he. " What ! " said I, " and kill thousands of your fellow- creatures, bombard towns, and bring ruin and desolation on hundreds of happy homes ? " "I have told you already, sir, that we would even 3 ADVENTURES IN SERVIA. make war in support of our views. I know as well as you that war is a horrible and atrocious thing, but at the very worst, it can only affect a fractional part of one generation, whereas untold generations would reap per- manent advantage by the triumph of our glorious cause." ** Come, come, ladies and gentlemen," said Dr. Cutem- off, "that is enough of politics for the evening. You'll never make converts of each other by argument. I never yet came across any one who was argued out of his convictions. Let us have a game of cards." CHAPTER VI. THE next morning we were up betimes. The Ser- vians are early risers, and the landlord and servants of the hotel were up and about before five o'clock. Dr. Ibaum called for us, — gay and festive as ever^ — and brought his English dog, Bee-lee, with him, a pretty little black-and-tan terrier. " Aha ! my friends, my friends," said he, " how you to do this early morning ? Have you slip well, eh ? Are you slippy steel? (Sleepy still.) No! good-good! Will you to snuff? No ? So, so. Here, Bee-lee, my Inglis tog ! Bee-lee I Inglis name ! Ah ! he come to see my Inglis friend. Inglis tog will to see Inglis man. Eh — ha ! ha ! ha ! Beelee, say you how do now — good tog ! " Bee-lee sat up on his hind legs and held out a paw. "Bee-lee good beggar, jolly good beggar — eh?" said the doctor complacently to us. We were amused by the doctor's droll language and loquacity, and Hiems replied that the dog was a first-rate beggar. "Yes," said the doctor, "I have teached him all myself, when he was small pup-dog. But come, my dear friends, now must we to the hospital go. Bee-lee 44 ADVENTURES IN SERVIA. shall to carry my stick, and I will take your arm." So saying, he threw his cane into the garden, when Billy rushed after it with a shrill yelp, seized it, shook it, after the manner of dogs, and finally trotted off with it — wagging his tail rejoicingly, and looking round every now and then to see if we were following him. A few minutes^ walking brought us to the hospital, where we found Dr. Stephanovitch already at work. We lost no time in following his example. I was requested to attend to the out-patients. These consisted, for the most part, of men who had received slight wounds about the face or arms, also a good many malingerers, who to avoid going to the front had mutilated themselves by placing a finger over the muzzle of a rifle and pulling the trigger with the other hand. Some of these fellows had punished themselves much more severely than they had intended, and in one or two instances their hands were completely shattered, and, as might have been expected, they displayed very little fortitude whilst having their wounds dressed. As there was no special out-patients' department, I attended my cases in one of the wards, in which, at the same time. Dr. Ibaum was engaged with the in-patients, some of whose wounds were of a very painful nature. To my surprise, those who were waiting their turn laughed at the contortions of their suffering comrades as a capital joke, whilst a few minutes after, these, in their turn, would be laughing at the grimaces of the other unfortunates. The Servians are naturally a kind-hearted race, and this apparent INSUBORDINATION. 45 heartlessness was due, evidently, to a keen sense of the ludicrous. I have seen Servians roll over one another in fits of laughter at a very feeble joke. The Servian doctors prized our Condy's fluid very highly. After its introduction, the mortality, so they said, was dis- tinctly diminished, and wounds to which it was applied certainly healed up with great rapidity. The rest of our supplies also were of considerable service, parti- cularly a large case of Liebig's Extractum Carnis. The Servians make excellent soup, but do not understand beef-tea, and many of the patients who could not take the soup on account of its greasiness, were able both to take and enjoy the former. With the consent of Drs. Ibaum and Stephanovitch, one of the uppermost panes in each of the windows was knocked out and replaced by a small Venetian blind; and to impress our soldier nurses with the importance of cleanliness and set them an example, Hiems and I sprinkled the floor over with diluted Condy's fluid, and swept the ward out ourselves. The soldiers looked on with approving smiles, and we thought we had made a great hit. We were, however, mistaken. The next morning I found the floor of my ward untouched. Putting on a stern expression, I beckoned one of the soldiers up, handed him the broom, and motioned him to set to work with it. The man, however, impudently, amid the laughter of his comrades, returned the broom to me, and motioned to me to sweep. I was so in- dignant that I seized him by the collar and turned him 46 ADVENTURES IN SERVIA. out of the ward, bestowing a kick upon him as soon as I had got him outside the door.. The fellow did not mind being turned out of the ward, but objected to the kick, and aimed a blow at me in return, whereupon I was compelled, in self-defence, to knock him down. I then handed him the broom once more, but he sulkily refused to take it. I was puzzled what to do for the moment. Suddenly a happy thought struck me. I took the commission I had received from the War Office out of my pocket and showed it to him. On it was the State seal. This seemed to make a great impression upon him. I then mentioned in succession the names of Prince Milan, M. Ristic, and Dr. Sava Petrovitch, looked verj' grave and determined, and once more handed him the broom. The soldier took it without a word, and set to work immediately. I then showed the commission to the other men, and repeated the talismanic names to them, with — I am happy to say — the same success. After this they always behaved with the greatest civility, and I never had occasion to complain again of the untidiness of the ward. Hiems had some trouble also, but Dr. Stephanovitch interfered, and compelled the soldiers to obey him. We were very short of splints at this hospital, and had to improvise them out of old boxes or anything that came to hand. We showed some of the most intelligent of the men how to dress wounds, and in a short time they became really zealous and useful assistants. Stephanovitch and Ibaum worked hard and unre- ROUGH TRAVELLING. 47 mittingly, and we also did our best, but in spite of our utmost efforts, mortality amongst the severely wounded was very high. The Servians have an invincible repug- nance to amputation, and many lives which might have been saved were lost through obstinate refusal of the men to submit to the operation. At the front the soldier's consent was not asked, but in our hospitals no operation was permitted without it. The Servian transport system — for the wounded — at that time also was extremely defective. Semendria was more than eighty miles from the scene of action, the roads were, in many parts, extremely rough, and yet scarcely any of the waggons in which the wounded were conveyed had springs. Travelling, even for those in sound health, was far from pleasant, whilst the sufferings of wounded men — with, in many instances, unset, fractured limbs, and exposed to the fierce heat of the Servian sun — must have been something almost too shocking to contemplate. The journey from Deligrad to Semendria in these waggons occupied from two to three days. It is not surprising, then, that many of the severe cases were moribund when they reached us, whilst not a few actually died en route. The work of the day at the hospital over, we used to spend our evenings in various ways. The most agreeable, perhaps, were passed with the Ristovitch family, whom we occasionally entertained at our quarters. Our landlord, a genial old Serv, on these occasions placed his whole house at our disposal, and his wife— a kind- 48 ADVENTURES IN SERVIA. hearted, buxom, but withal active dame — would bustle about the house making the necessary _jreparations. After tea the young ladies gave us lessons in Servian, whilst M. Ristovitch smoked his cigarette and looked on, and his wife knitted, and every now and then offered a suggestion. How we enjoyed ourselves ! We generally had two lessons every week — one at M. Ristovitch's house, and one at our own, and at one of the latter we had quite a little adventure. Hiems and I had been out for a walk. We had gone as far as the old fort at Semendria, — a ruined castle built by the Turks about the middle of the fifteenth century, and a very favourite resort of ours, for we used to wander amongst the ruins and hunt for snakes. A species of adder abounds there which attains a considerable size, and which the Servians hold in great dread. I have killed them quite four feet in length. The Servians say that the bite is fatal. On the day in question we turned over a huge stone in our search, and in so doing dis- closed a very fine snake. The creature gave a fierce hiss, and endeavoured to escape, but we belaboured it with our sticks until it appeared to be dead, and then we took it back with us in triumph. At home it was placed in a basin of water to cleanse it from the blood and dust, and left in one of the rooms whilst we prepared to receive our visitors. They did not arrive quite punctually, and we went a little way to meet them, and brought them back with us. As usual, tea was OUR LANDLORD AND LANDLADY AT SEMENDRIA BRINGING OUR BREAKFAST. To face p. 48. 1 FIGHT WITH A SNAKE. 49 served in the garden, and our lesson begun there as well ; but during the course of the latter the sky became darkened with storm clouds, and ere long a flash of lightning, followed by a terrific peal of thunder and a shower of hail, drove us indoors. We repaired to a room adjoining that in which we had left our snake. The storm was so fierce whilst it lasted, the lightning so vivid, the crashes of thunder so deafening, and the down- pour of hail and rain so heavy, that for a few minutes all remained silent. Gradually, however, as the storm abated, we resumed our conversation, and were very soon busy at our lessons. For some reason or other I was rather more backward than usual on this occasion, and my teacher was on the point of administering a lecture to me, when a loud hiss, followed by a scream from Mademoiselle Ristovitch, startled us all. There, in the twilight, for it was now getting dark, we discerned our captive gliding across the floor. For one second Hiems and I stared at one another in blank dismay ; all was commotion and panic. The three ladies, tucking up their dresses after the manner of the sex when crossing a muddy road, perched themselves on chairs. M. Ristovitch armed himself with the hearth brush, Hiems seized a stick, and I a wooden stool, and we advanced to attack the reptile, which retreated into a corner, and with erect head and fierce hisses stood at bay. The contest was short and sharp. The snake made a sudden dart at me, which, luckily, I succeeded in receiving on my stool, and the next minute my friends had struck it down, and I had 50 ADVENTURES IN SERVIA. crushed its head. This affair made Madame Risto- vitch so nervous and uncomfortable that her husband decided on returning home at once. The storm had now completely passed away. The western sky was still bright and flushed with gold and crimson by the setting sun, the moon had risen, and the stars were beginning to twinkle. Altogether it was a beautiful evening. M. Ristovitch took the lead on their homeward journey with his wife, Hiems followed with Mademoiselle Ristovitch, and I brought up the rear with Mademoiselle Miloiko- vitch. Now whether it was due to the storm or to the fine weather which followed, or to the influence of the planet Venus, which certainly was twinkling very brightly just then, or to the pale moonbeams, or to the lively manner in which Mademoiselle Miloikovitch had mounted a chair and maintained herself there during our combat with the snake, I cannot say, but I felt at that moment desperately in love with her. For several minutes we walked on in silence, but although I did not actually speak, I was several times on the verge of doing so. What I wanted to ask her was, " What is the Servian name for love ? " At last I did venture to speak, but the sound of my voice frightened me. 1 could get no further than "what." Three desperate efforts I made to get out the phrase, but each time my voice and courage failed me. Fortune, however, favours the brave, and at last she had compassion, and helped me. The part of the road THE SERVIAN FOR LOVE. 51 we were now traversing was rather rough, and in the silvery moonlight I saw that Mademoiselle Ristovitch had taken Hiems' arm. I therefore ventured to offer my arm to my partner, and, to my great joy, she at once took it. What a thrill of delight I experienced when I felt her fingers resting on it ! The contact, light as it was, inspired me with fresh courage, and clearing my throat I dashed at the sentence once more, and this time succeeded in getting it all out. " If you please, mademoiselle, what is the Servian word for love?" Mademoiselle Miloikovitch fixed her large dark eyes on me for a moment with an expression in which sur- prise and amusement were equally blended, and then, to my great disappointment and discomfiture, replied, " I have given one lesson to-day already, M. Alfred, and I certainly am not going to give you another now. Besides, there are lots of things I want to talk about. For instance, I want to know if you have ever been a soldier?" "I have been a volunteer," replied I, proudly. " Can you shoot well ? '' said she, looking at me approvingly. " Not well for an English rifleman, who are the best shots in the world, still I could hit a man at two hundred yards," I replied. " I wish I were a man instead of a woman," said she, with sudden energy, " I would enlist in our army imme- diately." 52 ADVENTURES IN SERVIA. "What a singular wish," said I, considerably surprised. " A singular wish, M. Alfred ! Do you not know that my relatives have been murdered and my dear country overrun and rendered desolate by those hate- ful wretches — the Turks? What would you think if your own land were invaded by hordes of cruel barbarians, smiling villages and happy homes turned into blackened heaps of ruins, and innocent, defenceless men, women, and children shot down and hacked to pieces ? It has been my cruel lot to see all this take place before my very eyes, and I care not what any one thinks, and I repeat it, — I long for vengeance, and I often think of going — woman as J am — to the front and firing a shot at our accursed enemies." Mademoiselle Miloikovitch spoke with such fierce emphasis and excitement, that for a moment I was thunderstruck. At last I said, "Mademoiselle, I sympathise most deeply with you, and I am very certain that were I in your place, I should feel precisely as you do now." "What," said she, eagerly, "would you recommend me to go to the front?" " Heaven forbid, mademoiselle ! " said I, " unless you went as a nurse ; and even then I don't think it would be a wise step on your part, as you have had no training." " What aggravating things you men are ! You are all alike ; you all say the same thing ; and there's not a bit A PLEASANT TALK. 53 of sense in a single word you utter ! " said she petu- lantly ; then with a laugh she added, '' I expect you think me very strange. All the same, soldiering apart, I wish I were a man ! Your greedy sex monopolised all the sensible occupations, and left us poor women nothing but nursing and needlework." " Pardon me, mademoiselle, but I do not think you quite do justice to our unfortunate sex. In my humble opinion, the ladies— who in the long run always have their own way — have allotted all the really disagreeable work to us men. Who works harder and gets worse paid than the doctor? Who gets more abuse than the lawyer, or more sneered at than the parson, or more hard blows than the soldier, or is more hated than the politician ? On the other hand, what can be more delightful than looking after a number of merry, innocent children, or more profitable than needlework, which provides you with new dresses, etc. ? " " M. Wright," said Mademoiselle Miloikovitch sternly, at the same time withdrawing her hand from my arm, " you are talking nonsense, and you know it. I shall not walk with you if you continue to do so ! " " My dear mademoiselle," said I, in considerable alarm, " pray forgive me ; I most humbly apologise. Ah, mademoiselle ! can you think I would presume intention- ally to offend you ? " and I contritely tendered her my arm again. "I cannot say whether I will forgive you or not," replied the young lady, still walking apart from me. 54 ADVENTURES IN SEE VI A. "that will depend entirely upon your behaviour for the rest of the evening. Now I want you to tell me, if you can, why the professions should not be as open to women as they are to men ? " " At the present time, mademoiselle," replied I, " there is, in my humble opinion, no good objection, speaking theoretically, to women, who are fitted by taste and in- clination, and have been suitably educated, entering the professions. Practically, I scarcely think the world suffi- ciently advanced for such a step. Women are, speaking generally, purer and more refined than men, and they exercise an immense influence over our sex for good, which may be termed a home influence. Take women away from home, and send them into the world as it now stands, what would happen ? They might gain in intel- lect, but I believe they would suffer morally by the change, and their influence for good be converted into an influence for evil. With the spread, however, of real thoughtful religion and knowledge, and the mental eleva- tion that will accompany them, men and women will be able to work indiscriminately together, and then their so doing will have a good eff*ect rather than other- wise." ** And how long, oh ! most profound philosopher," said Mademoiselle Miloikovitch, " do you think it will be before this will happen ? " ** I cannot say," replied I. '* I don't believe the world is ripe for it just yet. It rests very much with you ladies when it will take place. You have an instrument at your A PLEASANT TALK. 55 disposal more powerful for moving the world than Archi- medes' lever." " What is that, M. le Philosophe ? " said she. " The force of your example, mademoiselle. When the ladies make up their minds to do a thing, it is said they always do it. Now there are 500,000,000 ladies, young and old, in the world. Let these 500,000,000 irresistible beings resolve that the world shall take a decided step in the direction of goodness, progress, and enlightenment ; and let them, with that end in view, one and all, give us poor men the benefit of their powerful example, and heigh-presto ! the change would be effected at once." " Do you mean to insinuate then, sir," said Made- moiselle Miloikovitch, with an air of mock gravity, " that we ladies are not setting you a good example now ? " " Far be it from me, mademoiselle, to insinuate any- thing so utterly false," replied I ; " but I thought it might be possible for your sex, as a whole, to undertake the measure more vigorously." " Hum, M. Alfred, you are a provoking prevaricator. I will wait for six months to see if the world profits by my good example, and takes a step in the right direction ; but if it shows no signs of improvement then, I will become a professional woman at once. But here we are at home, will you come in? No? Then adieu! and many thanks for your instructive and philosophical dis- course." " Adieu, mademoiselle," replied I, attempting to give 56 ADVENTURES IN SERVIA. her hand a tender little squeeze ; " will you tell me next time the Servian for that litde word ? " " You must wait until next time, M. le Philosophe," said she, withdrawing her hand, " and see. Adieu again." CHAPTER VII. CLOSE to the old fort was a secluded spot by the river side. Here, morning and evening, Hiems and I were wont to bathe. The Servians tried to dis- suade us, declaring that the river abounded in poisonous water-snakes. The weather was so intensely hot, and we were so fond of the water, that in spite of the alarm occasioned by this information, we bathed regularly, at least once a day. Neither of us ever saw a water- snake nor anything like one, but it is not impossible that some of the adders, of which there are great numbers close to the water's edge, may, for divers reasons known only to themselves, occasionally indulge in a swim in the river, and that this was the origin of the Semendrian belief in water-snakes. The night after my stroll with Mademoiselle Miloiko- vitch, I was singularly sleepless. I lay thinking a long time of our conversation. I felt vexed at having been so timorous, and kept conjuring up in my mind's eye some bolder suitor stepping in before me and winning her affections. " Surely," I thought, " so beautiful and interesting a young lady must have shoals of admirers ; " and tos^ng about on my bed, I resolved that next time 4 58 ADVENTURES IN SERVIA. I would make a formal proposal, and secure her for myself at once. This notable resolution calmed me a little, and I presently dozed off, but my sleep was fitful and broken by all kinds of senseless dreams. At five o'clock I rose, determined to refresh myself for my day's work by a swim in the river. I tried hard to persuade Hiems to accompany me, but the only response elicited from him by my eloquent appeal was an inarticulate mumbling, followed by a loud snore, so I set off by myself. Arrived at the bathing place I quickly undressed and plunged into the river, which here was very deep, and about one-fourth of a mile in width. I was a very indifferent swimmer, but the water was so pleasant that I struck out boldly, and was soon far out in the stream. The strong current carried me along for some distance, so that when I turned to swim back, I discovered, to my consternation, that I was a long way from the place where I had left my clothes, and was drifting towards a small row of huts which lies a little beyond the old fort. I did not wish to land in front of these huts, as people were already moving about on the shore, and I foolishly endeavoured to swim against the stream to the point from which I had started. By exerting myself violently I succeeded in making a little progress at first, but I was quite two hundred yards from the shore, and beginning to feel dreadfully tired. Still I struggled on, and succeeded in diminishing this distance by another fifty yards. By this time, however. A NARROW ESCAPE. 59. I was nearly exhausted. A kind of numbness began to creep over my limbs, and I could scarcely strike out at all Recognising my danger, I endeavoured to make straight for the shore, but the numbness continued to increase, and I soon saw that unless someone came to my assistance, I would be quite unable to get to land at all. Cursing the folly which induced me to venture out so far alone, I shouted again and again for help. No one seemed to hear me, and I despairingly renewed my struggles. I thought of Mademoiselle Miloikovitch and of Hiems, of dear old England, and the friends and relatives whom I might never see again. Then drowsi- ness came over me — with the dim, vague idea of how comfortable the cottages on the shore looked, and how bright and green were the trees behind them, then I lost all consciousness. Luckily for me, a fisherman on the other side of the river had seen me turn in the water, and noticing the little progress I made, started to my assistance just as my strength was beginning to fail me. I had a very narrow escape, for he saw me sink twice before he could reach me, and just caught me by the hair as I was going down for the third time. It was a long time before I recovered my consciousness. My first sensations were those of extreme misery and dis- comfort. There was a choking sensation at my throat, and I felt most horribly sick and faint. Then I was made to swallow some strong spirits, and on opening my eyes I saw, as it were, in a mist, Ibaum, Stephanovitch, Cutemoff, and my dear friend Hiems, the latter — 6o ADVENTURES IN SERVIA. God bless him ! — sobbing as if his heart would break, and swearing at himself for not having gone with me to bathe, and praying for my recovery, in one and the same breath. Dr. Ibaum seemed scarcely less agitated, and when I opened my eyes, he flung away the glass of cordial he held in his hand, and rushed into my friend's arms, and the two hugged and jerked each other about — I can't say danced — in such a comical manner, that, ill as I was, I could not help laughing. ** Hurrah! hurrah! hurrah!" shouted Hiems; "he's coming round fast ! Look there ; he's laughing ; hip, hip, hurrah I " " Yes, yes ; he have smile wit his mouth. I have seen so mine self, eep ! eep ! oorah ! " and the two danced round again. Meanwhile Stephanovitch and Cutemoff had been working indefatigably (and, indeed, so had the others, until I opened my eyes and their feelings over- came them), trying different methods of artificial respira- tion upon me. chafing my limbs, and putting hot applications to my chest, etc. ; and at last they had succeeded in completely restoring my temporarily suspended animation. " By Jove, doctor ! " said Hiems, extricating himself from Ibaum's embrace, " he's coming round grandly. Let us make his bed comfortable for him, and he will have a good sleep." By this time I was able to breathe very well, and with a heart overflowing with gratitude I tried hard to thank wy kind friends for their goodness, but they refused to DELIRIOUS FANCIES. 6t let me speak, and tucking me up in dry and warm blankets, bade me go to sleep. As I felt very heavy and sleepy and weary, I was not long in following their advice. My last recollection of that memorable morn- ing was seeing my dear old Hiems seated by my bedside, looking anxiously into my face, and good Dr. Ibaum stealing noiselessly about the room, now darken- ing the windows, and now chasing a noisy little mosquito from my bed. But my troubles were not over yet. On waking from my sleep I had a violent shivering fit, followed by a sharp pain in my side, great difficulty in breathing, and high fever.' The water I had drawn into my lungs caused a severe attack of pneumonia. For some days I was in furious delirium, and whilst in this condition the wildest and most extravagant fancies filled my brain. Now I thought I was on the battle-field, sur- rounded by Bashi-Bazouks, who, in spite of my furious resistance, bore me to the ground, and thrust their weapons into my chest and side. Then again I would fancy I was walking about in a beautiful meadow with Mademoiselle Miloikovitch, plucking gorgeous flowers and offering them to her. Suddenly a hollow moaning sound filled my ears, and a vague and indefinable feeling of dread came over me. Then, instead of Mademoiselle Miloikovitch, appeared a terrible and menacing figure, and the hollow moaning sound changed to a loud roar of advancing water, from which I would try to escape ; but the figure by my side held me fast, and the waters overtook and overwhelmed 62 ADVENTURES IN SERVIA. me. This form of delirium was followed by a complete unconsciousness, during which time I believe I must have been asleep, for I awoke one morning to find the pain in my chest and difficulty of breathing nearly gone, and feeling comparatively comfortable. Hiems and Dr. Cutemoflf were in the room, standing near the window, and talking in whispers. I had a vague idea that some- thing had happened, but I could not recollect what, so I called out in a voice so weak and strange that it surprised me — " HuUoh ! Hiems, where am I, and what is the matter ? " In a moment the two were at my bedside. " Thank God, my dear boy," said Hiems fervently, '* for your recovery. You have been desperately ill. Once or twice we actually gave you up. At one time you were fighting, raging, and raving like a demon, so that it took three or four of us to hold you down, and you called me an in- fernal Bashi-Bazouk, Dr. Cutemoff a vile Circassian, and told Ibaum and Stephanovitch they were a couple of Turkish devils, and that if we would let you get up and try your hanging guard, you would take us all single- handed. You told us fifty times over you were a British subject, and dared us to touch you, on pain of incurring the wrath of the British empire." " What a trouble and nuisance I must have been to you all ! " said I, pressing Hiems' hand. " I am sure I can never, never repay you for all your kindness." " Shut up, old chap," said Hiems ; " you've nothing KIND FRIENDS. 63 whatever to thank me for. The little I have been able to do I would have done for anybody who was as ill as you have been, much more then for an old friend. I'm sure, under similar circumstances, you would do the same for me." " That I would, a thousand times over," replied I, gratefully. " Very well then, you see we are quits. But now hold your tongue, old boy ; you have done quite enough talk- ing for the present. Hulloh ! where's Cutemoff? Ah! here he comes with some beef-tea and jelly. What a regular trump he is, isn't he ? Don't answer. So are they all." And indeed nothing could have exceeded the kindness I received from all quarters, and 1 owe the kind friends who attended me during my illness a debt of gratitude I can never repay. CHAPTER VIII. THANKS to a sound constitution, I was soon up and about again, so that three weeks afterwards I was able to set to work at the hospital, and this, moreover, in spite of a severe disappointment which befell me in the temporary annihilation of any amatory designs upon Mademoiselle Miloikovitch. M. Ristovitch received a summons from the Skuptchine, or Servian Parliament, to proceed at once on business of importance to Paratchin, a town some sixty miles from Semendria, and not very far from Deligrad, which was at that time the headquarters of General Tchernaieffs army. As Mademoiselle Miloi- kovitch had relatives there, he decided upon taking her with him. Consequently, when I recovered, I found that my fair lady had gone, and that for the present I could hope for no opportunity of informing her of the state of my feelings. A personage made his appearance at Semendria a day or two after I resumed work, who drove all thoughts of love-making out of my head. This was Baron von Tummy, the celebrated Austrian surgeon, who was acting at the time as Inspector-General of all the Servian hospitals. His advent was preceded by the arrival of a BARON VON TUMMY. 65 large batch of wounded and invalided soldiers from the front. They were so numerous that every available corner in both hospitals was occupied. Most of the invalids were suffering from dysentery, and were as ill as they could be, and many of them emaciated to skeletons. Many of the wounded soldiers, too, were dangerously hurt, so that, as might be imagined, we all had our hands pretty full. Baron Von Tummy was a very remarkable man, both for intellect and personal appearance. He was very short, very stout, and very clever ; in fact, weighty both in mind and body. In height he was perhaps five feet two inches, but he must have been nearly two yards in circumference. He might have been fifty years of age, and he had iron-gray hair, beard, moustache, and whiskers, and a stern and resolute expression. The day he arrived all the doctors mustered at the hospital to receive him. Everything was as neat and shipshape as possible, but though the wards were clean, two things were painfully evident — the defective ventilation and the overcrowding. Our first impression of Baron Von Tummy was decidedly agree- able. Considering his great size he was remarkably active, and waddled along at an astonishing rate. He was dressed in the uniform of a colonel in the Servian army — viz., a brown tunic with red facings, a row of gilt buttons down the centre, and three gold stars on either side of the collar, blue pantaloons, with a very broad red stripe down the sides, and a naval officer's peaked cap. He carried no sabre, but bore in his right hand a huge 66 ADVENTURES IN SERVIA. white cotton umbrella, lined with blue, with which he shaded himself from the sun. The first thing the Baron did on entering the hospital was to shut up his umbrella, pull a very wry face, stop his nose with his fingers, and charge at the windows with the point of his gingham. Smash, crash, and crinnel ! and a shower of glass de- scended on to the floor. Then, turning to me with startling abruptness, he said, in excellent English, — ** Phew, that's a d d sight better, Mr. Englishman, isn't it ? " ** A great improvement, sir," said I. The Baron's grimace and whimsical energy excited the risibility of the servants and soldiers present, and they all began to chuckle and grin. Von Tummy stopped short and glared around him with a fierce growl, and the alarmed bystanders checked their hilarity directly, all except one unhappy man, who did his best to restrain his mirth, but ineffectually, and broke every now and then into a smothered guffaw. In an instant the redoubtable umbrella descended on his head with a sounding thwack, and as the man turned to flee, his departure was expedited by the forcible appli- cation of the Baron's foot to his back. As soon as order was restored again, the Baron com- pleted his inspection of the wards, formally presented Dr. Stephanovitch with a copy of a book he had published on hospital management, shook hands very affably with Hiems and myself, and took his leave. On my expressing surprise to one of the doctors at the THE DOCTORS' SECRET. baron's familiarity with the EngHsh language, he told me that he (the baron) could converse fluently in twelve European languages, and that curiously enough he paid especial attention to oaths and expletives, so that when annoyed he would sometimes swear in half a score of different tongues. Some days after I received a despatch signed "Ludwig Von Tummy." It informed me that I was selected to take charge of a batch of forty wounded men who were to be sent from Semendria to Belgrade ; that I should have two Servian medical students as assistants, and that I must be in readiness to start by steamboat the next morning. Poor Hiems looked round to see if there was a despatch for him, and was sorely disappointed not to find one. However, he consoled himself with the reflection, that, had he been sent, he would have been deprived of the society of the charming Mademoiselle Ristovitch. Presently Ibaum and Stephanovitch looked in. They also had received orders from Von Tummy to get the wounded men in readiness. They congratu- lated me heartily on my good fortune in being selected for the service, but there was, at the same time, something mysterious in their manner. They nodded and winked and whispered to one another in a way that puzzled both Hiems and myself. It was evident that both wished to say something to me, but that neither liked to begin. At length Stephanovitch asked me in German whether I preferred the charge of sick men or wounded. I replied that it was immaterial to me, but that other 68 ADVENTURES IN SEE VIA. things being equal, sick men required less looking after. " Ha," said little Ibaum, with an air of great satisfac^ tion, " you will like bester to take ill people ? " "No, I don't say that," I replied. "I merely say that sick men will probably require less looking after." "So — so— good — most good," said Ibaum, nodding his head. Then they smiled and winked at one another,, and shook hands with me over and over again, and departed, leaving the mystery unsolved. The next morning we were up at six o'clock, and at the hospital by half-past. There all was noise and masterly inactivity. Several of the soldier servants were lounging about, chattering away at the top of their voices. A few were engaged in the removal of the wounded, but were doing it in the most casual manner — ^joining in the general conversation and exchanging repartees with the loungers with the most perfect indifference to the groans of their unhappy burdens. These unfortunate creatures were deposited by twos in little catts littered with straw and hay, and driven slowly to the landing- place, there to await embarkation. Early as it was, Drs. Ibaum and Stephanovitch were already there, superintend- ing operations. As soon as the former saw me he came forward, and greeting me cordially pressed me to have some breakfast with him in the hospital. Believing there was a lot of work to be done, I declined. " My so good friend," said Ibaum, "there is not more wounded men to go. They have all early this morning gone ; there is the laster two ! " VON TUMMY AGAIN. 69 " Goodness me ! " said I ; " you must have been up very early this morning." " My dear friend," replied he, " I was very early to rise this morning. The Baron Von Tummy is a very punctual man, — oh, most punctuallest ! So come in, you, and the dear Hiems, and have a few breakfast here ! " It was quite true, — all the invalids who were to be re- moved had gone, so we yielded to Dr. Ibaum's hospi- table importunity, and had a "few breakfast" with him. During the progress of the meal I noticed our host once or twice exchanging signals with Stephanovitch, and wondered thereat, but reflecting that their idiosyn- cracies were no concern of mine, I went on with my breakfast, and said nothing. As soon as the meal was concluded, we went to the river side, where the wounded men were awaiting the arrival of the steamboat, which was to convey them away. The latter was now within half a mile of us, and rapidly approaching. As soon as Ibaum saw the boat, he produced a field-glass, and adjusting its focus some- what pompously, scanned the steamer with a haughty and commanding air. Suddenly he turned very white, dropped the glass out of his hands, and uttering a hollow groan, literally staggered against Stephanovitch. The countenance of the latter, too, underwent a sudden and ghastly change, like that of a man who is seized with an attack of cramp in the stomach, and both of them uttered simultaneously the name Von Tummy ! Following the direction of their glances, I saw on board the vessel, 70 ADVENTURES IN SEE VIA. and looking over its side, the fierce, resolute counte- nance of the illustrious Von Tummy ! But though the great man's expression was ferocious, yet, as he was not looking at either of the terror-stricken Servian doctors, I was quite at a loss to account for their panic. Mean- while the steamer glided up to the landing-place, and the object of their dread waddled ashore, and, strange to say, saluted us all with gracious cordiality, and then gave orders that a stack of hay, which stood in a field close by, should be demolished, and the hay spread over the deck for the wounded men to lie on. Now it so happened that the hay belonged to a farmer who in- tended consigning it to Belgrade for sale to the military authorities, and who hoped to reap a large profit by the transaction. The consternation of this individual, who happened to be standing by when the hospital servants began to carry out the baron's injunctions, was piteous. With anguish depicted on every feature, he hastened to Von Tummy's side and energetically remonstrated against this summary proceeding. The baron's reply was a terrific scowl and a savage ejaculation, which evidently meant " Shut up ! " The foolhardy farmer, however, per- sisted in pleading for his goods. The baron gave him another black look, and then, as lightning flashes fall from a storm-cloud, leaped upon him, and inflicted, first a heavy blow upon his nose, then a second on his stomach, which doubled him up, and finaUy put him to flight by a volley of kicks. Meanwhile the soldiers, AN UNACCOUNTABLE FANiC. 71 with the usual Servian indolence, were very slowly pulling down the stack and trailing small bundles of hay towards the ship. The lazy spectacle exasperated the irascible and energetic Von Tummy beyond measure. Seizing a long carter's whip from a bystander, he rushed amongst them and lashed into them furiously, shouting with every stroke " Heite ! " (make haste !), followed by a string of untranslatable and unsavoury Servian and German oaths. The effect of this well-timed onslaught was excellent. The demolition of the haystack was greatly accelerated, and the hay was promptly conveyed on board and arranged on the deck. Hiems, with his hateful love of punning, remarked, with a grin, " That it was but natural that a whipping should make the Servians smart," a joke which, in spite of my respect for the baron, nearly made me ill. Apparently satisfied and restored to good humour by the results of his severity, the baron linked his arm in mine, and leaning on me, said that he would now inspect the wounded men. As we approached the convoy of invalids Ibaum and Stephanovitch were once more seized with the same unaccountable panic — especially Ibaum, who hurriedly muttering something about an operation which must be immediately performed, fairly turned tail and bolted. Stephanovitch, though pale as death, stood his ground. Arrived beside one of the patients. Von Tummy, apparently not noticing the singular conduct of the two 72 ADVEMVRES IN SERVIA. Servian doctors, asked the man what was the matter with him. *' Dysentery, sir." " What ! " roared the baron, *' aren't you wounded, then?" " Oh, wretched fool ! " interposed Stephanovitch, " what are you talking about ? Your Excellency," turning to Von Tummy, " the man has a severe wound in the head, and does not know what he is saying." " I see no wound in his head, sir," replied the baron, giving Stephanovitch a keen glance. "Why " (here Von Tummy thundered forth a string of expletives in half-a-dozen different languages), "the man isn't wounded at all ! Get out of that " (tearing off the sick man's coverlet) ; " be off ! " (giving him a kick, and then to next soldier), " What's the matter with you ? " "Dysentery." "Oh, indeed " (oaths), "take that, and that ! " and with a kick and a thump he sent him about his business as well, and so on, right through the convoy, until he had weeded out all the sick, leaving only the wounded there. The spectacle, in spite of its cruelty, was ludicrous enough. There was the corpulent Von Tummy, rushing furiously hither and thither amongst the half-clad, emaciated Servians, whilst they stalked away in all directions, holding their garments about them, as fast as their wasted legs would carry them. It seems that both Ibaum and Stephanovitch greatly preferred surgery to medicine, and when they received instructions to send away forty of their wounded, con- DR. YERMAYLAFF GIGGLEIVITCH. 75 ceived the idea of getting rid of several of their sick at the same time. They were under the impression that Von Tummy was on his way to the front, where he would probably stay some time, and hence their terror when they recognised him on board the steamboat. Stephanovitch received a terrible lecture from the baron, but as for Dr. Ibaum, I believe he got off scot- free. Nothing happened after this to hinder the em- barkation of the remaining wounded, and with a kindly word of advice from Von Tummy I went on board, and we started. The voyage was quite uneventful and very pleasant. The wounded enjoyed the fresh air immensely after their long confinement in the close wards of the hospital. Thanks to Von Tummy's influence, a large awning was spread over the deck, which shielded them from the rays of the sun. They had grapes from the Prince's vineyard, and tobacco, supplied by the Russian com- mittee, and were fairly comfortable on the whole. The boat stopped at Topchidere, a place about a mile beyond Belgrade. A large concourse of people were awaiting our arrival, for it happened that my convoy was the first that had been sent by water, consequently a good deal of fuss was made about it. Amongst the lookers-on I noticed a slovenly little personage in a dingy white hoUand tunic. He wore spectacles and a shabby beard and moustache, and seemed to me to be very seedy and poverty stricken. Thinking that he was probably looking out for a job, 5 74 ADVENTURES IN SERVIA, I motioned to him to lend a hand to the men who were carrying out the wounded soldiers, and tendered him a franc. Never shall I forget the look of disgust and offended pride with which he declined my well-meant offer. " Sir," said he to me in French, ** do you know who lam?" I shook my head. ** I am Dr. Yermaylaff Giggleivitch, Chevalier of the Order of St. Michael and St. George, and chief surgeon to His Imperial Majesty the Czar of all the Russias." So saying, he gave me another withering glance, and turned away. When I had delivered my charges into the hands of those appointed to receive them, I proceeded, under the guidance of my two assistants, to an hotel, — yclept the Hotel London, — remarkable, as I learnt to my dis- comfort, for the extraordinary number of unsavoury insects which infested its bedrooms. Von Tummy's in- structions to me were to return by the boat, which would leave Belgrade at seven the following morning. So after strolling about and amusing myself in various ways for the rest of the day, I turned in about nine o'clock in the evening. My two assistants had left me early in the day, and gone to visit their sweethearts, under promise to return early and to be up in time for the boat, and I had arranged with the landlord to call us all at five the next morning. I was somewhat tired when I went to bed, and threw myself on the mattress with that THE HOTEL LONDON. 75 satisfaction which one feels after a long and fatiguing day. But I was doomed to get no sleep that night. Just as I was dozing off, a burning bite on the face aroused me, followed by another on the hand, and another on the foot. Springing up and striking a light, I dis- covered that I was assailed by legions of insects that crawled and insects that hopped ; in fact, in imminent danger of being devoured alive. They came marching down the walls in battalions, and they dropped on to me from the ceiling. I spent the whole night in doing battle with my adversaries — destroying them by scores on the wall, on the coverlet, and on the floor; nor did the carnage cease until four o'clock in the morning. Then I began to dress, and whilst sitting down for a moment, had the misfortune to fall fast asleep. Now had the landlord done his duty and called me, as he promised, at five, all would have been well. As it was, I slept on until eight o'clock, and of course lost the boat. My two assistants, who might have called me, and did not do so, alleged in excuse that their respect for me prevented them from disturbing my repose. In reality, the scamps wanted another day's holiday at Belgrade. There was nothing for it but to wait until the next day, as any other kind of conveyance to Semendria was unprocurable. From what I had seen of Von Tummy's disposition, I expected that this unfortunate mischance would get me into a scrape, and so it proved ; but I anticipate. Whilst I was at breakfast, a party of twelve or fourteen 76 ADVENTURES IN SERVIA. Russian officers came into the coffee-room, making a prodigious clanking with their sabres, and occupied most of the vacant tables. I looked at them with considerable interest. They were of all ages and sizes, — from six feet two inches to five feet nothing, — and apparently of every rank, from the polished noble to the unlettered boor. One group, in particular, attracted my attention. It con- sisted of three persons. The senior member of the party was a well-made man of medium height, with finely-cut features, blue eyes, and a heavy, blonde moustache, and completely bald. His air was com- manding, and by the respect shown him by his com- panions, he was evidently a personage of some importance. Of his companions one was a very tall, fair-haired young man, with one of the handsomest faces I have ever seen, and the other was a slightly-made, pleasant-looking man of average height, and about twenty-eight years of age. They drank champagne freely, and seemed in a very jovial mood. Whilst gazing at the group, I became aware that some one was dodging about me in a very odd manner, and looking up, I saw a little Russian officer, with a face like a monkey, dancing backwards and forwards behind me. He had a heavy scimitar at his side and a revolver in his belt, and was pointing with an expression of intense contempt at the red cross on my coat sleeve. By-and-by I saw that this singular de- monstration meant to indicate to me his opinion that men with the cross on their arms were cowards ; for, after pointing to the cross with a grimace and a sniff, he THE RUSSIAN OFFICERS. 77 pretended to run away in a great fright. Presently he advanced boldly up to me with a menacing air, and drew his revolver. Not understanding his object, and not liking his rudeness, I drew mine, and watched him closely, fully determined to use it if necessary. What might have happened I do not know. Fortu- nately the bald-headed gentleman with the big moustache said something to him in a sharp, authoritative tone of voice, and he slunk away, when the tall, handsome young fellow came forward, and making me a polite bow, said in French, — " Permit me, sir, to apologise in the name of the Russians here present for that fellow's rudeness ! " I replied that no apology was necessary ; whereupon he made me another polite bow, and we shook hands cordially. The Russian courteously invited me to drink a glass of wine with him and his friends. I accepted the invitation, and as I approached their table, both the bald-headed officer and the slim young man with the agreeable countenance rose and treated me to a friendly shake of the hand. They informed me that they were officers of the Russian Imperial Guard, and were going as volunteers to the front, and would leave Belgrade next morning for Semendria, by boat, en route for Deligrad. I told them we should be fellow-passengers as far as Semendria, at which they seemed very pleased. After the wine we had coffee and cigarettes, and all became very sociable. Several of the other Russians joined in the conversation. I observed, howeveij that 78 ADVENTURES IN SERVIA. they always treated the bald-headed individual with great deference, and I noticed also, with some pride, that my gutta-percha boots attracted considerable atten- tion and several approving smiles ; at least, they appeared to me to be so. Two of the Russians, however, took exception to them. One of them told me that my boots, though possibly good in theory, were not prac- tical ; the other, a rough-looking fellow of gigantic stature, with a shock head of yellow hair and a shaggy moustache, offered me, through the medium of an in- terpreter (for he could speak no language but his own), another pair of boots, expressing at the same time the utmost disgust for my favourite gutta-perchas. I was a litde bit hurt at his apparent inability to appreciate their merit, so I requested the interpreter (one of the Imperial Guard officers) politely 'to decline his kind offer for me. My refusal apparently offended this singular person very much, for he frowned fiercely, and said something in an angry tone. " Sir," said the interpreter to me, " he is much dis- appointed at your declining his offer, and trusts you will reconsider the matter." I replied that I thanked him very much, but having plenty of boots of my own, it was quite unnecessary for me to deprive him of a pair of his. At this the shock- headed gentleman waxed exceedingly wrath, and darting a fierce look at me, struck the table a blow with his clenched fist. "Sir," said the Imperial Guardsman, "I think that " I NOTICED ALSO, WITH SOME PRIDE, THAT MY GUTTA-PERCHA BOOTS ATTRACTED CONSIDERABLE ATTENTION." To face p. 78.] / RECEIVE A PRESENT, 79 perhaps it would be prudent of you to accept his offer, otherwise he may want to fight you." ** Bless my soul ! " said I, laughing ; ** if he looks at it in that light, I'll accept his offer at once;" and walking up to him, I nodded my head at him, and extended my hand in token of friendship. Before taking my hand, this susceptible giant appealed to the guardsman, and then seizing my hand in his enormous paw, squeezed it almost into a jelly, pushed me inta a chair, and dashed out of the room. In a minute or two he returned with a pair of top boots under his arm, and kneeling down, whipped off my beloved india- rubbers, and put his own on my feet in their stead. Then sitting down and leaning his elbows on the table he supported his chin on his hands, and taking a good look at me, told me that I was very like a dear friend of his, who had been killed in battle, i propos of which he said he would like to ask me a question. " Some time ago, I was engaged in a battle with the Turkomans. We were greatly outnumbered, and for five hours were exposed to a terrible fire. For the first four hours I felt calm and cool, as a soldier ought to feel under fire, but after that I became, all at once, terribly frightened. I want to know how it was that I should all at once lose my presence of mind. Having delivered himself of this question, the burly dragoon officer — for such he proved to be — rested his chin on his hands again, and looked at me with a So ADVENTURES IN SERVIA. wistful earnestness of expression that indicated the anxiety with which he awaited my answer. For the moment I was fairly puzzled. Then I asked him if he had a wife and children. He replied with ecstatic energy, " Yes, yes, yes ! " and kissing his hand fervently, placed it first about two feet from the ground, then he kissed it again and placed it a foot higher, then again, raising it a foot higher still, which I understood to mean that he had a wife and three children of the sizes indicated. "Well then, sir," said I, " I think your conduct on that battle field can be easily explained. During the first four hours you thought only of your duty, and con- sequently feared nothing, but in the fifth hour you remembered your wife and children, and that thought unnerved you ! " No sooner had my reply been explained to the dragoon, than he sprang up with much energy, up- setting his chair and nearly capsizing the table, and then folding me in his arms, smothered my face with kisses, exclaiming that I had taken a great load off his mind, for he had fretted about his conduct on that occasion ever since. Then, summoning the waiter, he ordered a bottle of champagne, and filled a glass tankard up to the brim for me, and one for himself, and clashing his glass against mine, tossed off his wine at a single draught. I had already had one tumblerful of champagne, and consequently could drink very little of the wine, which greatly astonished and disappointed him, but he COLONEL BRAGG AGAIN. 8i was pacified when I explained that I scarcely ever took wine at home. " Why," said he, in a tone of surprise, " in Russia I drink a bottle of brandy and five bottles of wine every day." In the afternoon, the young officer who had remarked that my boots were unpractical, and whose name was Mouravioff, proposed that we should go for a walk, and a party, consisting of five or six of the Russians and myself, went in the direction of the arsenal. On our way we happened to pass the palace. Princess Natalie was at the time lying ill there, and an edict had been issued forbidding people either to drive or ride past. The princess was exceedingly popular, and the good people of Belgrade, in their anxiety for her recovery, carried out the edict to the letter, and when passing the palace used to speak in whispers and walk on tip- toe. I was not aware of this at first, and consequently was somewhat surprised and amused to see scores of people — soldiers, civilians, and women — whispering together and walking about as lightly as possible, like nurses in a sick-room, but when I knew the cause, this popular demonstration of sympathy touched me considerably, and heightened my respect for the Servian character. Suddenly the silence was broken by the clattering of a horse's hoofs and the yelping of a cur ! Who should appear upcn the scene, mounted upon a large chestnut horse, but Colonel Bragg! He sat his horse pretty well, but from his fiery complexion, and the way he 82 ADVENTURES IN SERVIA. swore at the dog, which bayed furiously at his horse's heels, I fancy he must have been intoxicated. That, at least, is a charitable supposition ! The cur yelped and snapped at the horse, making it rear and plunge in a way that threatened to unseat the gallant colonel, who, livid with rage, cursed until he was hoarse. For fully five minutes a frightful war of sounds con- tinued — the dog growling and barking, the colonel roar- ing and swearing, and the horse kicking and striking sparks from the rough pavement with his hoofs. Sud- denly the terrible Bragg changed his tactics, and drawing his sabre made a vigorous down cut at the dog. The blow was well aimed; the dog's head rolled on the stones. Then sheathing his weapon, the colonel trotted along, twirling his moustache with an air of triumphant ferocity on his truculent face. Undeterred, however, by the awful fate of the cur, a presumptuous gendarme took upon himself the enforcement of the edict in the colonel's case, and fearlessly confronting him, forbade him to ride further in that direction. **Get out of my way, you idiot! What's the matter with you?" said the colonel, contemptuously, putting on a tremendous expression, and endeavouring to spur his horse past the bold gendarme. The " bold gendarme," however, laid hold of the bridle. " Will you take your hand off my bridle ? " shouted the colonel. The gendarme stood firm, whereupon, uttering one To face p. 82.] COLONEL BRAGG. ENGLAND VERSUS RUSSIA. 83 of his choicest oaths, the colonel struck him on the face, and making his horse rear at the same time, suc- ceeded in shaking him off. Then invoking a lot of the most bizarre and recherche maledictions I ever heard on his discomfited adversary, the twice triumphant Bragg rode off. " Do English officers usually behave like that ? " asked Mouravioff, sarcastically. " Never," replied I, indignantly ; " they are gentlemen. As for this Colonel Bragg, I believe he is an American adventurer. I am quite certain he is not an English officer." When we got out into the open country we threw ourselves on the grass beneath a shady tree, and re- freshed ourselves with a nip from our flasks and a whiff of tobacco smoke. " M. Wright," said the irrepressible Mouravioff, "what will England do when Russia declares war against her ? " *' She will probably fight," said I. " How can she fight us ? She has only 100,000 men, we have 3,000,000. Moreover, her soldiers, though they are brave, cannot stand extremes of cold and heat like ours." " Why, sir," replied I, " they did very well in the Crimea, where it was cold enough, and they contrive to get on in India, where it is rather warm." "Still, sir, the fact remains that you have only 100,000 men." 84 ADVENTURES IN SERVIA. " On the contrary, we have a great m^ny more : 120,000 regulars, 150,000 miUtia, and 200,000 volun- teers ; besides," said I, " there are all our sailors, num- bering 180,000. These sailors," I continued, waxing warm in defence of our national prowess, " are all armed with pistols and cutlasses like this " (pointing to the one I wore) ; " and they have a peculiar kind of guard, called the hanging guard, which I will show you, which renders them invincible as swordsmen. This," said I, drawing my cutlass, and putting myself into my very best hanging- guard position, "is how British sailors fight!" and I looked round to see what effect my formidable attitude produced upon the Muscovites. They were all smiling, doubtless with admiration. '' If English soldiers fight like that," said Mouravioff, in an altered tone, " they must indeed be invincible ! " ***** On our return to the Hotel London we separated for the night, under promise to meet again at five o'clock the next morning, and I retired to bed — but, alas ! not to sleep, for fresh swarms of insects, as if to avenge their deceased comrades, kept me awake until three in the morning, when having slaughtered the greater part of my tormentors, I at last managed to snatch some repose. CHAPTER IX. BANG ! bang ! bang ! Thump ! thump ! thump ! Bang ! thump ! bang ! thump ! bang ! These were the sounds which aroused me the next morning; the landlord and the Russians were hammering at the door. " Hulloh, Mr. Englishman ! " said one of the Rus- sians, when at length I appeared, "you sleep pretty soundly." "I daresay," said I, rubbing my eyes. *'I am very tired ; I have hardly slept a wink through insects." "Bah, monsieur," said another, "you will not make a good campaigner if you cannot put up with a few fleas." " I suppose one can get used to all things in time," replied I, a little bit nettled; *'but at present I must say I am not quite used to the disgusting vermin one meets with in this place." "Certainly, certainly," replied the Russian; "but meanwhile breakfast is ready, and the steamboat starts at seven o'clock." I dressed in a trice, and went down into the coffee- room, where my assistants and the Russians were 86 ADVENTURES IN SERVIA. assembled at the breakfast table. I sat down, and soon had occasion to ask the Russian next me to pass me the salt. To my surprise, however, he absolutely refused, and I had to rise and get it for myself. The young officer who had apologized to me on the pre- ceding day for his countryman's rudeness explained, that amongst Russians of a certain class a superstition exists, that passing salt to comparative strangers leads to a quarrel. After breakfast the Russians called for champagne, and concluded their last meal at Belgrade, before going to the front, by toasting the Czar and singing their national anthem. We then all proceeded to the river- side, and embarked in good time. We were favoured again with the most lovely weather. After a pleasant voyage of a few hours the boat drew up at the Semendria landing-place. I was so charmed with the companion- ship and courtesy of the Russians that I invited them to the rooms that Hiems and I held in common. Ten of them, including the tall young officer who first spoke to me, his bold friend Mouravioff, and the dragoon who gave me the boots, accepted my invitation, and I was pre- paring to leave with them, when the terrible Von Tummy planted his substantial corporation in front of me, and fixing his piercing eyes upon me, said, with a dark frown, " Well, sir!" So sharply did he speak and so stern were his looks, that for the moment I was dumbfoundered. The Russians, however, were standing round looking on. VON TUMMY BLOWS ME UP. 87 With a bland smile, therefore, I extended my right hand, and said in accents of hearty cordiality, — " Ah, baron ! How d'ye do ? " My impudence surprised the baron ; for a moment he looked at me in speechless indignation. Then stamping one of his ponderous feet on the deck he asked me what the I meant by not returning yesterday. " It was an accident, sir," replied I. " I had the mis- fortune to lose the boat." " It's a lie, sir ! You wanted to lose the boat ! " roared the angry baron. " Be off to your quarters, sir. I'll talk to you by-and-by ! " "I am not in the habit of telling lies," I replied, imprudently. "How dare you answer me, you impudent English jackanapes ! " thundered Von Tummy, shaking his fist in my face. "And how dare you call me jackanapes, you two- penny-halfpenny Austrian baron ! " screamed I, beside myself with passion. Just then Hiems, who had heard this dialogue with much alarm, came to my rescue, and putting his hand over my mouth, attempted to drag me away, saying, — " Don't be a fool, old fellow ; you're spoiling all your chances ! " " I'll dismiss you from the service," roared Von Tummy. " Dismiss me, and be hanged ! " shouted I, succeed- ing, after a desperate struggle, in tearing Hiems' hand from my mouth j but this was all I could say, for the 88 ADVENTURES IN SERVIA. next moment my friend carried me bodily away. Once removed from the baron's irritating presence, I recovered my equanimity. The Russians were full of sympathy for me, and when I told them the baron had called me a jackanapes, which I explained to them meant a conceited, insignificant, monkey-like fellow, their friendly indignation knew no bounds. "Resign your post as surgeon at this hospital, monsieur," said the bald-headed gentleman. *' and come with us to the front." " Yes, yes, come with us to the front ! " cried the other Russians in chorus. Matters had gone so far, that in spite of Hiems' remonstrances and disappointment, I decided to accept their invitation, and told them that I would be glad to cast in my lot with theirs, and accompany them as a volunteer. My decision was hailed with great applause. Even Hiems reluctantly admitted that after what had taken place it would be impossible for me to remain under Von Tummy; so I wrote the latter a letter, regretting my hasty conduct, and sending him, at the same time, my resignation as assistant surgeon at Semendria. To this I received no response. We spent the rest of the afternoon in the most festive manner, — drinking success and rapid promotion to one another; and all separated for the night in the highest spirits, except poor Hiems, who took my approaching departure very much to heart, and would not be com- forted, in spite of all my efforts to console him. CHAPTER X. THE next morning, as I was sitting at breakfast with Hiems, Mouravioff and another Russian came to the door and told me that the waggons that were to convey us to DeUgrad were waiting at the Lion Hotel. I had already packed up my small stock of wearing apparel in my knapsack and a large travelling bag. The former I strapped on to my shoulders, the latter my good-natured landlord assisted me to carry. Hiems accompanied me to the hotel, and we walked there in silence, for now that the moment for parting had come we both felt heavy-hearted. I noticed that the bald- headed officer — instead of sharing a waggon with two or three others, like the rest of us — had a well-appointed carriage, and started a few minutes before us. Our waggons were of the very roughest description, more like large hencoops with the tops off, on wheels, than travelling conveyances. They boasted of neither springs nor seats, the place of the latter being supplied by bundles of rushes. Three of us were stowed in each of these vehicles, mine being the last of the train. A large crowd assembled by the hotel to witness our departure. Just before we started, Drs. Ibaum and 6 90 ADVENTURES IN SERVIA. Stephanovitch appeared upon the scene, and wished me " God speed " with much heartiness and fervour ; then Hiems gave me a last squeeze of the hand and " God bless you," and we were off, amidst a waving of hand- kerchiefs and fezzes, and a shout of " Jivio " from the crowd. My companions in the car were Mouravioff and the handsome young officer who first spoke to me, and whose name I learned was Savrimovitch. Both were officers of the Russian Imperial Guard. We were rather silent for the first half-hour or so. Probably we were all of us thinking of home and home friends \ at least I know I was. But the broiling heat of the sun and the terrific jolting of the car were fatal to sentimental contemplation. Our coachman was a tall, narrow- chested, round-shouldered individual, who sat in front of us with his head on a level with his knees, and taking no notice of anything or anybody, devoted all his energies to humming a wearisomely monotonous ditty in an utterly disagreeable falsetto. Our horse's appear- ance was strangely in keeping with that of his driver. He was, without exception, the very scraggiest and most dejected looking specimen that I ever saw^ and his pace was the slowest of slow jog trots. The road along which we were driving was crossed every few hundred yards by a drain about a foot deep and eighteen inches wide, into which the trunk of a tree had been rolled to enable vehicles to pass. The casual Servian wayside authorities apparently made no effort to select trees of the same size as the trenches ; some were AN UNPLEASANT RIDE. 91 too big, and projected six inches above the level of the roadway, others were too small. Our coachman's method of getting over these trenches was peculiar. When within twenty or thirty yards of one of them, he would shout out something, which I suppose meant "Hold on," urge his horse into a gallop, and go straight at it. The result, as may be conceived, was extremely shocking to the occupants. Our first experience of one of these trenches may be better imagined than described. The waggon struck the obstacle with a crash, and bounded over it with a smash and a bump, shooting me a foot or so into the air, and bringing the back of my head into such violent contact with the side of the car, that for the moment I was stunned. My companions fared no better. When I came to they were lying — one on the top of the other — at the bottom of the car, and struggling to get up. The only one of us who seemed not to have suffered was the coachman. He was sitting just as before, humming precisely the same ditty, and our Rosinante had relapsed into the same jog-trot again. We requested this musical Jehu to be more careful the next time he took us over one of these trenches. He stopped his humming for a moment, and without turning his head, replied that he would, and then droned away again at his ditty as mono- tonously as ever. His idea of being more careful, however, was to go over the next trench with a little extra spurt, so that we got as badly shaken as before. This was too much for our equanimity, so as soon as we 92 ADVENTURES IN SERVIA. had got over this second bruising, we held a brief council of war, which ended in our pulling coachee off his seat, and bundling him into a comer of the car with one or two gentle thumps, by way of reprisal for the knocking about he had inflicted on us. My two companions then desired me to drive, remarking that all Englishmen could ride and drive. Now it unfortunately happened that I could do neither, having been brought up in London with no opportunity of learning. However, I had seen people drive often enough to know something about the ?nodus operandi, and being most desirous of maintaining the honour of my country, I, with many secret misgivings, but with much outward show of cheerfulness, took the reins. For some time, fortune favoured me. Savrimo- vitch and Mouravioff, thinking all was right, entered into a little tete-a-tete conversation, without troubling them- selves about me. The next few trenches, too, were provided with trunks of about the right size, and the road was nearly straight. True, I failed to keep the cart in the middle of the road, still, by constantly working at the reins, I succeeded in keeping the horse out of the hedge on either side. At last we came to a sharp turn. By pulling strongly at the near side rein I got the horse round the corner in grand style, but unluckily forgot to loosen the rein, so the stupid old creature ran right into the hedge. The wheel ran up the bank, the waggon turned over, pitching us all into the road, and upsetting the horse as well. For a minute we all lay in the dust without attempting to move — I, because I was so much A SPILL. 93 astonished at what had taken place, the Russians because they were a good deal shaken, and because our crafty- Servian coachman, with an eye to saving himself, had contrived to fall on the top of them. Then we were suddenly roused to action by our venerable steed, which, possessed with an unwonted spirit of friskiness, began to kick so vigorously that it threatened soon to make matchwood of the waggon. I was on my feet in a moment, and running to the horse's head forced it to the ground again and sat on it, after the manner of London cabmen in similar emergencies. Neither Mouravioff nor Savrimovitch were much hurt, and shak- ing off the coachman, who was reclining comfortably on the top of them, they came to my assistance. The coachman did not offer to help us, but sat down in the middle of the road, sobbing and wringing his hands in a most dismal and lackadaisical manner, and praying his "dear Gospodin" horse not to kick his cart quite into little bits. However, we managed to right the cart and set the horse on its legs again, and I resigned the reins to Savrimovitch, who proved an excellent driver, and we soon found ourselves in Jagodina — a large straggling town of about 10,000 inhabitants. Here we joined the rest of our party. Jagodina has acquired some local celebrity from its manufacture of wooden flasks and water-bottles. Some of these are very quaint and pretty. I became the possessor of one, under rather singular circumstances. We had started again, and were driving through the 94 ADVENTURES IN SERVIA. outskirts of the town, when an old peasant came running after us in great distress, and asked if any of our party was a doctor. He was referred to me, and I ascertained that his grandchild was in a fit. On following him into a cottage hard by, I saw an old woman, holding on her lap a fine boy, about a year old, in strong convulsions. I lanced the child's gums, which were much swollen, and putting him into a warm bath, had the satisfaction of seeing him come round. Before I left, the old couple blessed me with touching fervour, and begged me so hard to accept a wooden bottle that they had made themselves, that I felt constrained to take it. The road between Jagodina and Paratchin, the next large town that we stopped at, is very good. It runs through a beautiful and fertile tract of country, covered with vast groves of plum trees, apple orchards, and vine- yards. The scenery, moreover, became more picturesque as we went on. The ground undulated considerably, whilst the horizon was bounded by a lofty range of blue mountains. Between us and them, and at a considerably lower level than the road, was a beautifully wooded and well-watered plain. As the evening advanced the weather became very close and sultry, and a severe thunder- storm broke upon us before we reached Paratchin. It was about half-past ten and pitch dark when we arrived, and we were all wet and very uncomfortable. The two or three hotels in the place were full, for a body of cavalry and two battalions of infantry had entered the town earlier in the evening, and they seemed to have A WET NIGHT. 95 taken up all the available accommodation. To add to our misery, the rain began to fall again in torrents. As a last resource we went to the Commissary of Police, and requested him to find us quarters. That worthy, however, shook his head, and said he was afraid it was impossible, but he would do the best he could, and sent a gendarme to take us to all the likely places. The gendarme proved a humbug. He walked us about fruitlessly for half an hour, and then quietly gave us the slip, leaving us more wet and miserable than ever. Under these circumstances we began to make up our minds to pass the night as well as we could in our cart, and with that object we made tracks for the market-place, where we had left it in charge of our Servian coachman. But lo ! when we got there, both cart and driver had vanished ! We now became desperate, and going into the coffee-room of the nearest hotel, we ordered some supper, intending to remain in the room all night. The place was crowded with Servian officers and soldiers talking, eating, drinking, singing, smoking, gambling, and sleeping. The uproar was tre- mendous, and the atmosphere, composed of steam from their wet clothing and tobacco smoke, particularly dense. We succeeded, however, in getting a corner to ourselves and making a first-rate supper. Then we strolled out- side, to smoke a cigarette before going to sleep. On the way out, I noticed a door which had been left ajar. Curiosity impelled me to push it wide open, and I beheld a large, well-lit room with — oh, rapturous spectacle ! — twenty comfortable-looking beds ranged round it. None 96 ADVENTURES IN SERVIA. of them were tenanted. My mind was made up at once, and I resolved at all hazards to sleep in one of them. True, they were engaged, as was evident from caps, swords, cloaks, and revolver cases laid on them, but that was a minor consideration. Running after Mouraviofif and Sarvimovitch, I led them back to this room. They also went into ecstacies and appropriated beds. I tore off my sopping wet and clinging garments in the twinkling of an eye, and clapped on some dry things out of my knap- sack, and jumping into the bed I had selected, removed the late owner's sword, revolver, etc., tucked myself under the coverlet, and wishing my comrades good-night, was asleep in no time. How long I had been asleep I don't know, but I was roused by some one giving me a thump and dragging me on to the floor. Looking up, I became aware that the hideous little Russian who had insulted me in Belgrade was standing over me, grinning with rage, and cursing me in his guttural language with fierce volubility. Infuri- ated at this treatment, which was not perhaps altogether unjustifiable under the circumstances, I sprang to my feet and hit the Muscovite a blow on the nose that sent him reeling to the opposite side of the room. In a second his sabre flashed out of its sheath, and I had just time to put my eyeglass in my eye and raise my cutlass, when he aimed a desperate cut at my head. In my hurry, I quite forgot the hanging guard, and put up my weapon anyhow, and such was the force of his blow that it nearly struck it out of my hand, and made my fingers A FIGHT FOR A BED. 97 tingle for some minutes afterwards. I could see from the way the fellow handled his sword that he knew more about fencing than I did, still the blow on his nose had made his eyes water, and interfered with his sword play so much, that he had to stop every now and -then to wipe away the tears. By nimbly jumping about, and by the lucky interposition every now and then of my cutlass between myself and the enemy, I contrived to avoid his cuts and thrusts ; and, indeed, if my eyeglass would have stopped in my eye, I think I should soon have vanquished him, but each time I made up my mind to try to disarm him, the eyeglass fell out. Nevertheless, I managed to strike several vigorous blows at him, which I flatter myself he had some difficulty in parrying. At length, by a lucky chance, I snatched up my knapsack with my left hand, hurled it with such skill and dexterity at my adversary, that it struck him full in the chest, momentarily deprived him of breath, and jerked his sword out of his grasp. Then, without giving him time to recover himself, I closed with him, and we rolled over on the floor together. Meanwhile the noise of the combat brought a crowd of armed men out of the coffee-room, and also awoke Savrimovitch and Mouravioif, who hurried to my assistance. <' Hulloh ! " said Mouravioff, rather sarcastically, " do English sailors fight with knapsacks as well as cutlasses?" "Yes," replied I, triumphantly; "they always knock their enemies over, and are not very particular how they do it ! " 98 ADVENTURES IN SEE VIA. Savrimovitch strode up to my late opponent, -whose name, by the way, was Pauloff, and gave him a sharp reprimand for molesting me. Pauloff replied by a defiant scowl, and began haranguing the soldiers and detailing his grievances to them, and some seemed half disposed to take his part. Savrimovitch, however, soon put an end to the quarrel. Speaking in a loud, authoritative tone, he ordered the soldiers to arrest that "drunken fellow" (pointing to Pauloff) " for assaulting this good English doctor." My friend's fine presence and commanding manner acted like magic on the Servians. The infuriated Pauloff was collared, and in spite of his frantic struggles and remonstrances, marched off to the guard-room. Peace being thus restored, the soldiers cleared out of the room again, we returned to our beds, and slept tranquilly the rest of the night. CHAPTER XL THE first thing next morning, we went to the market- place in quest of our lost conveyance. To our great delight we found it, but just on the point of start- ing without us. Our friends welcomed us with a cheer, and the caravan pulled up whilst we took our places. Then we bid good-bye to Paratchin, and trundled off towards the front again. It was a lovely morning, and we were all in excellent spirits, for we expected to reach Deligrad early in the evening. We whiled away the time in planning all sorts of desperate expeditions and adventures. Savrimovitch proposed that we i^should provide our- selves with horses, and act as mounted scouts — for the army — whenever an opportunity offered. I suggested that we should imitate the example of Athos, Porthos, and D'Arlagnan of the Mousquetaires, provision a cot- tage in the midst of the Turkish lines, and defend it for six months against the whole of the hostile army. My suggestion was received with shouts of approving laugh- ter. Mouravioff patted me on the back, and said I was undoubtedly a military genius of the highest order. loo ADVENTURES IN SERVIA. The handsome Savrimovitch said, with a smile, " But supposing they bring cannon against your cottage ! " to which I replied, that our defence then would be all the more creditable. He smiled again, and shaking me warmly by the hand, said that I was a " brave ! " When we were still some distance from Deligrad, we heard the distant booming of cannon for the first time. This excited us all so much, that we gave a loud cheer, which was caught up by our friends in the other waggons, and the drivers whipped up their tired horses, and we bounded along in fine style. Soon after this a party of horsemen approached us, led by an officer in whom I recognised, to my surprise, the bald-headed Russian I had met at the restaurant with Savrimovitch. " See," said Mouravioff, " here comes the prince ! " "The prince!" said I, in astonishment, "what prince ? " " Why, Prince Obolenski, of course." " You don't mean to say," said I, " that that gentle- man is a prince ? " " Certainly I do ! " " Goodness me !" I exclaimed in dismay; " I trust he was not offended at the cool way in which I spoke to him." " Not he," replied Savrimovitch, " he is very good- natured." Meanwhile the cortege had come up to the leading waggon, which stopped, and its occupants stood up and saluted the prince. PRINCE OBOLENSKL loi As he approached us, we did the same. The prince reined up at our waggon, and shook hands very kindly with all three of us. " Ah, M. Wright," said he, " I am very pleased to see you. I have been talking about you to Dr. Gigglei- vitch." " Dr. Giggleivitch ? " repeated I, in alarm. " Yes," rejoined the Prince, " Yermaylaff Giggleivitch. We travelled from Semendria together. Do you know him? " '*Well," said I, "I cannot exactly say that I know him, but I met him once under rather embarrassing circumstances ; " and I narrated my little adventure with him at Belgrade. , The prince laughed heartily, and then said, "That explains it all. Yermaylaff Giggleivitch looked anything but pleased when I told him you were coming, and absolutely refused to give you a surgeon's commission as surgeon under him " (I looked very blank at this), *'but you need not let that trouble you. I can offer you, if you like, the rank of lieutenant in one of our best brigades here, — the Medvedovski's Brigade, — where you will have plenty of opportunities both of practising your profession and of fighting." I was overwhelmed with joy and gratitude at this. Even had he given me the chance, I doubt whether I could have found words in which to thank him ; but without waiting, he shook hands with us again, and trotted off with his followers. 102 ADVENTURES IN SERVIA. When we reached the camp we were directed to head- quarters, which were held at a large cottage close to the road. We left our waggons and formed into line. Presently three or four officers came out ; we all stood at attention. I was particularly anxious to create a good impression, and threw my shoulders well back and held myself as rigidly as possible. " That officer with the imperial moustache and beard is General Tchemaieff," said Savrimovitch to me in a whisper. Without turning my head, I looked at this renowned soldier out of the corners of my eyes with greater interest. Before coming to us, the general spoke to two or three men who were standing near in a group. " By Jove," continued Savrimovitch, still whispering, " the general's in a great rage about something ! Do you notice the way in which he puffs out his cheeks and sucks them in again? He always does that when he's angry. I expect these men are asking for leave of absence, a thing he hates." The general, who was a sallow-faced man of medium height, and nowise remarkable in personal appearance, was indeed puffing out his cheeks in a very odd manner. Presently, and without returning their salute, he turned his back on the unfortunates who had excited his wrath, and came towards us. "If he is pleased with us," said Savrimovitch, *'he will beat a kind of devil's tattoo with his finger against the side of his leg." GENERAL TCHERNAIEFF, FROM A PHOTOGRAPH BY YOVANOVITCH OF BELGRADE. To face p. 102.] GENERAL TCHERNAIEFF. 103 I watched him carefully as he walked deliberately up to our line, and noticed, first, the angry shade fade away from his face. As he passed from man to man and asked each one where he came from and what service he had seen, his fingers began to play at first slowly, then more quickly, and finally, when he spoke to Savrimovitch, his satisfaction appeared to reach its climax. He looked rather doubtfully at me, and I thought I could discern just the suspicion of an inflation of the cheeks when he heard I was an Englishman ; but as I answered all his questions satisfactorily, this indication of displeasure passed away, and before he left me, I had the satisfaction of seeing his fingers gently ambling up and down his continuations. Four of us — namely Savrimovitch, MouraviofF, the big dragoon officer who gave me the boots, and whose name was Nicolaitch, and myself — were told that we were to join the Medvedovski Brigade, so without losing time we set out for its headquarters. Deligrad itself is — or rather was at that time — an insignificant hamlet, numbering a normal population of perhaps a couple of hundred, but the camp, which surrounded it on all sides, contained from thirty to forty thousand men. The position was naturally strong, and had been fortified by trenches, rifle pits, and earth- works, mounting upwards of one hundred guns of every calibre and of all kinds. There were old smooth bores and new Krupps, little six pounders and huge sixty pounders. The plain in front of the camp was, moreover, I04 ADVENTURES IN SERVIA. Studded with little pits containing sharp stakes for the benefit of the enem)''s cavalry. The trees, too, in the vicinity had been felled, stripped of their leaves and twigs, and, with their branches sharpened, disposed as an abattis to further hamper the movements of an attacking force. The position of the Medvedovski Brigade lay about half a mile to the right and rear of the general's head- quarters. The Medvedovski Brigade — so called from its com- mander, Colonel Medvedovski, an officer of the Russian Imperial Guard — was also known as the Russian Brigade, from the nationality of many of its officers. Colonel Medvedovski, a dark, stern-looking man, with a short, well-trimmed moustache and beard, bade us welcome to his brigade in a short, and doubtless pithy, oration in Russian, of which, unfortunately, I failed to understand a single word. " You are a medical student ! " said the colonel to me in French, at the end of his harangue. " I am, sir," replied I. " May I ask why you elect to serve as a combatant instead of following up your own profession ? " " Because I wish to see some fighting, sir." The colonel gave me a keen glance, and said, with a smile, — " You are evidently an original, sir. May I trouble you to hand me your passport and other papers ? Thank you ; you must entrust them to my keeping until you leave COUNT RENE. 105 the camp. Do not think, sir, that we suspect your bona fides in any way ; we adopt the same precaution with all volunteers coming here. Meantime, I am very glad to receive an Englishman into my brigade, and if I can be of any service to you whilst you are with us, you have but to speak to me, and I will do what I can for you." Standing behind the colonel was a singular-looking individual, apparently about thirty-five years of age. His hair was of an extremely light colour, his com- plexion florid and weather-beaten. He had a feeble white moustache, and a little tuft of hair on either side of his chin, one of which was bright red, the other of a pale straw-colour. His features were flat, his right eye grey, and his left blue. In spite of the peculiarity of his appearance, his expression was pleasing. This was Count Rene, who had the reputation of being one of the bravest of all the gallant Russians then in Servia. I had just thanked Colonel Medvedovski for his kindness, and was turning to leave the tent with my companions, when Count R^ne came up to me and shook me by the hand. •' You are to join my battalion — the fourth. Permit me to offer you a hearty welcome to it. You are the only Englishman in the whole brigade, therefore I shall expect great things of you, for I have heard much of English courage ! " The count's words set my ambition in a blaze ; my 7 io6 ADVENTURES IN. SERVIA. heart beat wildly, and I felt the blood mount to my face. I, however, restrained my feelings until I had bid him adieu, and merely replied that I should be proud and happy to do the best I could for the honour of the battalion. I inwardly resolved, however, to do some- thing desperately valiant to maintain my reputation as a brave Englishman. The idea that occurred to me at the moment was to send a challenge to the officers of the Turkish army, defying any of them to meet me in single combat. With a feeling of proud elation, I ima- gined myself posing in the hanging-guard attitude before the assembled Servian and Turkish hosts, and after a terrible encounter vanquishing the hostile champion, and then saving his life by a brilliant surgical opera- tion. The fame of my glorious deeds, I rapturously thought, would not be confined to Servia, but would extend all over Europe to England — and then, who knows what might happen ? Many a man has passed along a less creditable avenue to Royal patronage \ I rubbed my hands, and laughed with glee at the thought ! " Why, how now, M. Wright," said Savrimovitch, banteringly, " what are you laughing at ? Have you been drinking champagne on the sly ? " " No," replied I, somewhat vexed that my elation should be deemed of the vinous sort ; " I am simply very glad that we shall so soon have an opportunity of distinguishing ourselves." " Pooh, is that all ? " said Savrimovitch. " I thought A GROSS MISCONSTRUCTION. 107 you were a little bit screwed, and was hoping you had brought a bottle or two of Heidsick with you." " I daresay, M. Wright, that you will nojt feel quite so festive when you really have seen some fighting," said Mouravioff, dryly. CHAPTER XII. THE brigade of which I was now a member was about 2,000 strong, and was encamped on what had once been a field of maize. Here and there lines of stiff, stubbly stumps still stuck out of the ground. The camp was very picturesque. It was composed of hundreds of booths, arranged in rows, and intersected at regular intervals by broad thoroughfares. These booths were ingeniously constructed of green boughs, interlaced, and supported by one or two stout upright pieces of timber. Some of them were like little huts, and afforded very complete shelter, and others were entirely opened on one side, like arbours, and to one of these latter we were directed. It already contained two occupants, — Count Tiesenhausen and Baron Kleist — both of them Courlanders. They proved to be old acquaintances of Savrimovitch and Mouravioff, to whom they gave a very warm and hearty welcome. They also received Nicolaitch and myself very politely, and we were soon all on the very best of terms. Count Tiesenhausen was a handsome, blonde little man, who encased his legs in a huge pair of cavalry boots, and smothered his face under a Servian military cap, which was many sizes KLEIS7 AND TIESENHAUSEN. 109 too large for him, and came down to his eyes and brows. Baron Kleist, a tall, gaunt man, with very strongly- marked aquiline features, and a sandy-coloured beard and moustache, suffered a good deal from ague, and always wore an overcoat with its collar turned up. He divided his spare time between sleeping and smoking, and for the greater part of it I think he was to be seen squatted on his heels puffing at a cigarette. But both Kleist and Tiesenhausen were brave soldiers, and ami- able and accomplished gentlemen. It was now late in the afternoon. We had eaten nothing but a biscuit or two and a few grapes since we left Paratchin. We were glad, therefore, when the count summoned our mess servant, who was quite a character in his way, to prepare supper. Imagine a funny mannikin, with a pair of very roguish-looking, twinkling black eyes, the smallest and snubbiest of small snub noses, and a gigantic pair of moustaches. The creature, whose name was Jenko, at once cut some thick slices from a large piece of mutton, put them on a long spit, and proceeded to grill them over a large wood fire which smouldered in front of our hut. We all lent a willing hand in one way or another. Tiesenhausen and Mouravioff walked over to Deligrad, and bought some wine and spirits at one of the nume- rous provision stalls which had sprung up round the camp; Nicolaitch occupied himself in superintending the baking of some potatoes ; Kleist roasted coffee- berries in a frying-pan ; and Savrimovitch and I pounded no ADVENTURES IN SERVIA. the same, he with the butt end of his revolver, and I with the heel of a drinking horn. When we had finished breaking up the coffee-berries, we put the fragments into a pot containing about half a gallon of water. The resulting fluid was of a pale straw colour, and tasted very strongly of wood and smoke, and feebly, very feebly, of coffee. The meat was terribly tough, having been killed that morning, and the black commissariat bread of the consistency of putty, and about as diges- tible. Still, in spite of these little drawbacks, we all ate very heartily, and formed an exceedingly merry little party. As the evening advanced and the stars began to twinkle overhead, hundreds of huge fires were lit through- out the camp, round which groups of armed men sat or recHned, their faces and accoutrements, illumined with vivid distinctness by the leaping flames. I looked with delight on the scene, and said to myself, "Yes, this is real warfare, and no mistake about it ! " Whilst indulging in warlike musing, a voice struck my ear so singularly like that of Marie Miloikovitch that it sent a thrill right through me. It came from a group of three officers who were walking towards our hut. I could not make out their faces in the gloom, until the light of the fire fell on them. Then I saw with amaze- ment that one bore so astonishing a resemblance to the charming Bulgarian who had captivated my heart at Semendria, that I started and exclaimed, " HuUoh ! " All three turned their faces towards me, and I fancied that the young officer who was so like Marie changed K 'c* "^'i' I \ / A MYSTERIOUS RESEMBLANCE. colour when he saw me. But it might have been only my fancy, or a fitful shadow cast by the flickering flames. Anyway, they resumed their conversation, and passed on without taking further notice. The likeness was most amazing. " Still," thought I, *' I must be mistaken. It is all but impossible that the beautiful and accomplished Marie should have cast aside the feelings of her sex and donned a soldier's uniform." Then I recalled her strange conduct during our memorable walk at Semendria when she discharged my revolver, and I came to the conclusion that it might be she after all. 1 was agitated and perplexed, and resolved to follow the cause of my mental confusion and ask if he was Marie, and had actually started off, when the absurdity of putting such a question to a man brought me back to my senses — and — our fireside. "Why! what's the matter with you, M. Wright?" said Savrimovitch, slapping me on the back. *' You're not ill, I hope ? " " 111," replied I, looking at him vacantly ; " no, I'm not ill ! " " I'm glad to hear that," said my friend, " for you've been muttering to yourself, starting and staring about you, like a man with deUrium tremens, for the last fifteen minutes. Come to the hut, and be a little more sociable." At ten o'clock we all turned in for the night j i.e., we lay down on the ground in the clothes we wore. I had lit AhVnN'nfNtS IN •j-ri /,/. no ovrrronf, no H«vrJirioviM h y,iHH\ nftiiircdly Inniitfd on K|»h< i h,, ,i, ,.,,^,1,1. •xigoncloN or < ..in|,.>i m,;,^ i,, i m,i . 1 ,,. 1 i<. . 1... >, v«ry thankfiii n,, , . ,,.,.,,.1, Unnh.' **And [V '.-1 .1. .1 in, I ., (nii.i.M. ' • ...mI I, with A groAn. *U)h, "'^•11'" I'lii-I.'wl Cofiril 'I'ir l,,M.i.. -1.0 Jtmt tllMi • ^n,. i.|, h, M I, ,M h,.,|. .1, •■ III, 1,1 , |.,|, I I . IMmI. I III . .11)11, " I (I M' I , |. mI ., . 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