THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 *&. 
 
 THE GASTRONOMY COLLECTION OF 
 GEORGE HOLL 
 
 AGRIC. 
 LIBRARY 
 
 '. 
 
 
 
*w -w 
 
 
THE 
 
 NEW CYCLOPAEDIA 
 
 OF 
 
 DOMESTIC ECONOMY, 
 
 AND 
 
 PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 ADAPTED TO ALL CLASSES OF SOCIETY, 
 
 AND COMPRISING 
 
 SUBJECTS CONNECTED WITH THE INTERESTS OF EVERY FAMILY; 
 
 SUCH AS 
 
 DOMESTIC EDUCATION, HOUSES, FURNITURE, DUTIES OF MISTRESS, 
 
 DUTIES OF DOMESTICS, THE STOREROOM, MARKETING, TABLE 
 
 AND ATTENDANCE, CARE AND . TRAINING OF CHILDREN, 
 
 CARE OF THE SICK, PREPARATION OF FOOD FOR 
 
 CHILDREN AND INVALIDS, PRESERVATION OF 
 
 HEALTH, DOMESTIC MEDICINE, THE ART 
 
 OF COOKERY, PERFUMERY, THE 
 
 TOILET, COSMETICS, 
 
 FIVE THOUSAND PRACTICAL EECEIPTS AND IAIIMS. 
 
 FROM THE BEST ENGLISH, FRENCH, GERMAN, AND AMERICAN SOURCES. 
 ILLUSTRATED WITH 
 
 OVER TWO HUNDRED ENGRAVINGS. 
 
 * it 
 
 EDITED BY IKS, E. F, ELLET, 
 
 AUTHOR OF " THE WOMEN OF THE REVOLUTION," ETC., ETC. 
 
 NORWICH, CONN.: 
 PUBLISHED BY HENRY BILL. 
 
 0. A. BROWNING, TOLEDO, O.; C. C. HASKELL, LEWISTON, ME.; IRA A. SMITH, MILFORD, 
 MASS.; AND HUGH HERON, CHICAGO, ILL., GENERAL AGENTS. 
 
 1872/ 
 
Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1871, 
 
 BY HENRY BILL, 
 In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 
 
 RAND, AVERY; & Co., PRINTERS, 
 3 CORNHILL, BOSTON. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 THE importance of the subjects introduced, and their 
 influence upon the happiness of the household, consti- 
 tute a sufficient claim for a favorable reception of this 
 volume; for, though many books have been written on 
 domestic affairs, yet no treatise so complete in all its 
 parts, within the limits of a convenient manual, has 
 been given to the public before the appearance of this 
 work. In many matters beside cookery does the inex- 
 perienced housewife need instruction and guidance. It 
 has been a study, in this volume, to reduce to practical 
 rules the best theories concerning an extensive and varied 
 range of household duties, and to furnish simple and 
 useful directions in each branch of this most interesting of 
 sciences, that the work might be safely consulted in all mat- 
 ters relating to the manifold responsibilities of the house- 
 keeper. 
 
 The young housekeeper will appreciate the advantages 
 of a compendium which embraces rules and advice pertaining 
 to all the duties expected of her ; advice as to early house 
 training, the taking and furnishing of a house ; the different 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 departments filled by servants, and the superintendence of 
 the mistress ; the laying in of stores and purchases in mar- 
 ket; the art of making and arranging things used every 
 day, and of setting out a table to advantage ; the care of 
 children, and the best food for them ; the preparations most 
 useful for invalids; the attendance at meals, and various 
 matters in household management which no book before 
 this has ever taught in detail, but which are commonly left 
 to the slow teaching of individual experience. While en- 
 deavoring to make this manual or cyclopedia so complete as 
 to meet all the wants of those who lack knowledge, care 
 has been taken to arrange the various departments with 
 clearness and method. A carefully prepared and copious 
 index will at once direct the reader to any thing wanted. 
 
 In the department of Cookery, arranged under forty-five 
 heads, an unusually large variety of recipes is given for the 
 styles in every-day living soups, meats, sauces, <fec., because 
 it was desirable to include the latest improvements, and 
 because the want of variety in such preparations is usually 
 complained of in American cookery. The French having 
 so much the advantage of us, it is as well to learn something 
 more of their boasted art, that those who choose may avail 
 themselves of the knowledge. A number of choice recipes, 
 therefore, from very recent French and English works, have 
 been added to those contributed by American housekeepers 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 of long experience and tried skill. Several valuable recipes, 
 never before made public, have been furnished for this work 
 by Delmonico, Taylor, Wagner, Sneckner, and other pro- 
 prietors of celebrated establishments in New York. 
 
 The Toilet Department, and Perfumery, Cosmetics, <fec., 
 do not strictly belong to housekeeping; but every lady 
 must desire some knowledge of them, and it is convenient 
 to have a manual containing instructions as to the com- 
 pounding of articles required for the hair and complexion. 
 The fair reader will not object to the space and attention 
 devoted to these matters. 
 
 The Family Medical Guide is not designed to interfere 
 with the province of the physician, but to furnish simple 
 and approved recipes for use when medical advice cannot be 
 procured, and palliatives to promote the comfort of the sick. 
 All these recipes have been submitted to a prominent phy- 
 sician, and approved by him. 
 
 The section appropriated to the sick is unusually com- 
 prehensive, containing many new recipes. The Miscella- 
 neous Department is also enriched with several tried and 
 excellent ones, never before published. The numerous 
 illustrative cuts, which are found in no other volume, will 
 help to explain the method and use of various housekeeping 
 articles. E. F. E. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 PARTL 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 PA< 
 
 Thoughts and Maxims on Housekeeping, 15 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 The Dwelling House, &c., . . . .18 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 Furnishing a House, 21 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 Plate, Cutlery, House-linen, Ac., . . 24 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 Servants, 26 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 Duties of the Housewife. The Dinner, . 31 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 Duties of the Servants, . . . .41 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 The Care of Children, . . . .46 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 The Care of the Sick, . : . .50 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 The Store-room and Marketing, . . 53 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 Domestic Manipulation, . . . . 59 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 Decanting, Straining and Filtering Liquids, 65 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 The Manufacture and Use of Cements, . 69 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 Powdering, Grinding, &c., . . .72 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 PA61 
 
 Knots, Parcels, &c. 74 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 Adulteration of Food and Purity of Water, 78 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 Boiling, Stewing, &c., . .81 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 Economy of Heat, 84 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 Cleaning and Disinfecting, . . .88 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 Fermenting and Distilling, . . .. 91 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 Laying out Tables and Folding Napkins, . 94 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 Trussing and Carving, .... 103 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 Culinary Utensils, 116 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 Cookery as an Art, 124 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 Foreign Terms used in Cookery, . . 126 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 Condiments, 129 
 
 CHAPTER XXVH. 
 
 Rudiments of Cookery, .... 186 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 
 Hints and Maxims, 148 
 
 CHAPTER XXIX. 
 Articles in Season for each Month, . . 149 
 
12 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 PART IL 
 
 Receipts for Soups, . 
 
 Meat Soups, 
 
 Soups of Game, Poultry, Ac., 
 
 Vegetables, 
 
 Fish Soups, 
 
 Fish, 
 
 Shell Fish, . . . 
 Sauces for Fish, . . 
 Gravies, Sauces, Ac., 
 Ketchups, .... 
 Farces and Stuffings, 
 Receipts for Dressing Beef, 
 Receipts for Dressing Veal, 
 Receipts for Dressing Mutton, 
 Receipts for Dressing Lamb, 
 Receipts for Dressing Pork, 
 Sausages and Forcemeat, . 
 Curing Meat, Potting and Collaring, 
 Poultry and Game, 
 
 Venison, 
 
 Vegetables, * 
 
 Salads, 
 
 Pickles and Store Room Sauces, 
 Paste, Meat, Game and Fish Pies, 
 Fruit Pies, Puffs, Ac., 
 
 Puddings, 
 
 Sweet Puddings, . . . 
 Italian Pastes, .... 
 
 Rice 
 
 Cheese, 
 
 Pancakes, Fritters, . 
 
 Various Modes of Cooking Eggs, 
 
 To Make Bread, 
 
 Biscuits and Warm Cakes, . 
 
 Butter, 
 
 . 155 
 . 156 
 . 171 
 . 179 
 . 185 
 . 188 
 . 204 
 . 214 
 . 218 
 . 242 
 . 243 
 . 249 
 . 276 
 . 296 
 . 811 
 . 818 
 . 337 
 . 341 
 . 356 
 . 874 
 . 376 
 . 390 
 . 393 
 . 406 
 . 425 
 . 436 
 . 439 
 . 450 
 . 452 
 . 454 
 . 457 
 . 459 
 . 464 
 . 467 
 . 472 
 
 PAOH 
 
 . 473 
 . 486 
 . 494 
 . 498 
 . 510 
 . 514 
 . 517 
 . 526 
 . 529 
 Bills of Fare, 532 
 
 Cakes, Ac., .... 
 Custards, -Creams, Jellies, Ac., . 
 Coffee, Tea and Chocolate, 
 Preserves, &c., .... 
 Beverages, .... 
 Wines and Liqueurs, 
 Cookery for the Sick, 
 Food and Cookery for Children, 
 Savory Dishes for Breakfast, 
 
 PART HI 
 
 537 
 538 
 542 
 543 
 545 
 
 Perfumery, . 
 
 Essences and Extracts, . . 
 
 Compound Odors, or Bouquets, 
 
 Spirituous Infusions, 
 
 Oils for the Hair, 
 
 Cosmetics, ....... 546 
 
 Powders, 546 
 
 Soaps, 547 
 
 Cold Creams, 547 
 
 Pommades, 548 
 
 Salves and Balsams, 549 
 
 Vinegars, 549 
 
 Salts, . 551 
 
 Cassolettes, 551 
 
 Sachets, 552 
 
 Hair Washes 553 
 
 Fumigating Paper, 553 
 
 Pastilles for Necklaces, Bracelets, Ac., . 554 
 
 Hair Dyes, 554 
 
 Depilatory, 555 
 
 Shaving Pastes, ...... 555 
 
 The Family Medical Guide, . . .556 
 Miscellaneous Receipts, .... 567 
 
 Index, 588 
 
PART FIRST. 
 THOUGHTS AND MAXIMS ON HOUSEKEEPING. 
 
THE 
 
 PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 PART I. 
 
 THOUGHTS AND MAXIMS ON HOUSEKEEPING. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 DR. STARK says, " The only test of the 
 utility of knowledge is its promotion of 
 the happiness of mankind." Viewed 
 thus, the subject we are about to treat 
 presents claims superior to most others, 
 and is eminently worthy of study. The 
 superintendence of a house, and the man- 
 agement, forethought, domestic economy, 
 and good sterling sense requisite for the 
 discharge of this duty, demand applica- 
 tion and perseverance, and ought to re- 
 ceive as much, at least, as is bestowed 
 on the acquisition of music, painting, or 
 any of the ornamental accomplishments. 
 Young ladies are educated to shine in 
 society; would it not be well if they 
 were also sedulously taught by a sys- 
 tem of training to perform the homely 
 duties which make home the abode of 
 comfort ? 
 
 It has been said that Americans in 
 general have little attachment to home. 
 Often, indeed, is the domestic comfort, 
 so prized in England, absent from the 
 abodes even of the wealthy, in our land. 
 May not this undeniable fact, and the 
 roving propensity of young people in this 
 country, be attributable to the circum- 
 stance that girls, whose condition exempts 
 them from servitude, are brought up 
 wholly without reference to home du- 
 ties ? Even those who may depend on 
 
 their own labor for a subsistence, are 
 taught some trade, or superficially quali- 
 fied as teachers, or instructed in various 
 branches of needlework ; while they know 
 little or nothing of household matters ; 
 though such knowledge would enable 
 them to command an independence. It 
 is not alone the wife and mother who 
 should be skilled in domestic affairs; 
 every girl who has emerged from child- 
 hood, is liable to be called on to take 
 charge of a house. If the mother is 
 bedridden, or deceased, why should the 
 father of daughters sixteen or eighteen 
 years old be compelled to look elsewhere 
 for a housekeeper, and intrust the man- 
 agement to the hands of a stranger ? 
 
 The general cultivation of this valu- 
 able knowledge, too, would make the oc- 
 cupation of a " help," or servant, more 
 acceptable to thousands who now prefer 
 starvation in a garret, or the ruin of 
 health in sedentary employments. The 
 more attention is turned to this branch 
 of learning, the more will its importance 
 be recognized, and the higher place will 
 it assume in the list of useful arts ; and 
 a degree of respect being accorded to 
 those who excel, more will be found 
 ready to engage in it as a profession. 
 What an improvement would be made, 
 by such a result, in our social and do- 
 mestic life ! 
 
 We would not be understood to say 
 
16 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 that we would have a woman merely an 
 upper servant in the house it is her 
 province to guide, or that we undervalue 
 intellectual attainments and elegant oc- 
 cupations. But it will not detract from 
 the charm of these, nor from the dignity 
 of *the well-bred lady to be familiar 
 with the routine of domestic duties, well 
 acquainted with the minutiae of house- 
 hold economy, and competent to direct, 
 or if need be, teach her servants ; ay, 
 even, to do things herself in cases of 
 necessity. On the other hand, will it 
 not enhance admiration and strengthen 
 regard, to see that she possesses these 
 acquirements, and is willing to exercise 
 them to promote the comfort of others ? 
 Who can tell that she may not. at some 
 period of life, be thrown into circum- 
 stances where the mere fine lady would 
 be utterly helpless, or where intellectual 
 refinement and distinguished position 
 may prove less available than industry, 
 ingenuity, and practical common sense ? 
 
 What is a kingdom, a merchant's 
 counting-house, or a mechanic's workshop 
 without a head? We do not mean a 
 mere master, but a presiding intellect to 
 plan, contrive, direct, and guide. Not 
 less absolute or important is the rule 
 of & sensible woman in her own home. 
 She has full scope for the exercise of 
 good taste, prudence, and refinement. 
 She is invested with an amount of respon- 
 sibility she perhaps never dreamed of, 
 for her influence over the temper, habits, 
 actions, and dispositions of those about 
 her is very great, and great in proportion 
 should be her self-government for with 
 self the command must begin, if it is to 
 be worth having. 
 
 There is much talk, nowadays, about 
 the " rights " and " mission " of woman 
 Without entering into the merits of the 
 subject, we would only say, that if women 
 from the highest to the lowest, were 
 systematically educated to wield properly 
 the great power they indubitably possess 
 
 i power which can be made to move 
 the secret springs of action and the 
 machinery of business they would have 
 little reason to complain of the want of 
 influence; and were they so trained to 
 enter actively and energetically into do- 
 mestic employments and affairs, that none 
 could deem it a pursuit unworthy of them, 
 they would find ample scope for the 
 exercise of their faculties, and the acqui- 
 sition of means to live. 
 
 There is a medium, however, in all 
 things. A woman who worries all with- 
 in her reach by her ultra-housewifery, 
 who damps one down with soap and 
 water, poisons one with furniture polish, 
 takes away one's appetite by the trouble 
 there is about cooking the simplest 
 thing, and fidgets one by over-done tidi- 
 ness and cleanliness, is almost as much 
 to be avoided as a downright slut, or the 
 veriest simpleton who ever took counsel 
 with her stppid servant as to how long 
 a potato ought to be boiled ; she exercises 
 a pernicious influence on all, and is a 
 misery to herself and others. 
 
 Neither would we have domestic econ- 
 omy and home duties vaunted, or made 
 the constant theme of conversation ; 
 they are the private employments of a 
 woman ; she must study other things in 
 order to entertain her, relatives and 
 friends. Those who talk most of their 
 duties are generally those who perform 
 them most imperfectly. When a man 
 returns to his home, or enters his sitting- 
 room, fatigued and perhaps disappointed 
 by the business of the day, he does not 
 want to be annoyed by the detail of do- 
 mestic accidents, the misdemeanors of 
 servants, and the cheating of tradespeo- 
 ple ; he has had his worries during the 
 day, too, and, with that pride, or reserve, 
 or want of confidence which is peculiar 
 to most men, he perhaps keeps them to 
 himself. Let his example be followed in 
 'all cases where advice, or support, o* 
 assistance is not absolutely necessary, 
 
FEMALE EDUCATION. 
 
 17 
 
 and pleasant, cheerful themes be chosen, 
 or some amusement selected which shall 
 render the evening and leisure hours 
 those of relaxation and enjoyment, and 
 t tend to give a charm and zest to home 
 which no other place can possess. Men 
 are free to come and go as they list, they 
 have so much liberty of action, so many 
 out-door resources if wearied with in- 
 doors, that it is good policy, if nothing 
 else, to make home attractive as well as 
 comfortable. 
 
 An education in household matters 
 should be complete comprising the 
 knowledge requisite for use in all de- 
 partments. 
 
 Many a girl can make good pastry, 
 jellies, &c., for an evening party, and 
 being much complimented for her labors 
 by those who relish the produce, forth- 
 with fancies herself a capital housewife, 
 while, in all probability, she scarcely 
 knows how vegetables are cooked, is 
 profoundly ignorant of the prices of the 
 commonest articles of daily consumption, 
 and could not tell of what material a 
 housecloth ought to be made. And 
 how few there are who could, in case of 
 need, make a cup of good gruel, or a glass 
 of white-wine whey, or even a little 
 broth or barley-water ! We do not say 
 that they could not manage to produce 
 something resembling these things, but 
 the capricious appetite of the invalid 
 tfould reject the tasteless messes. Many 
 have suffered martyrdom from this one 
 neglected branch of female education. 
 
 Perhaps few branches of female educa- 
 tion are more useful than great readi- 
 ness in figures. Accounts should be 
 regularly kept, and not the smallest 
 article omitted to be entered. If balanc- 
 ed every week or month, the income and 
 outgoings will be ascertained with facil- 
 ity, and their proportions to each oth- 
 er duly observed. Some people fix on 
 stated sums to be appropriated to each 
 different article, as house, clothes, pocket, 
 
 education of children, &c. "Whatever 
 may be the amount of household expen- 
 diture, a certain mode should be adopted 
 and strictly adhered to. Besides the 
 regular account-book, in which the receipt 
 of money and every payment should be 
 regularly entered, a common-place book 
 should be always at hand for the entry 
 of observations regarding agreements 
 with servants, tradesmen, and various 
 other subjects, so as to enable the lady 
 at once to ascertain the exact state of 
 the affairs under her immediate manage- 
 ment. 
 
 A minute account of the annual income 
 and the times of payment should be 
 taken in writing; likewise an estimate 
 of the supposed amount of each article 
 of expense ; and those who are early ac- 
 customed to calculations on domestic 
 articles will acquire so accurate a knowl- 
 edge of what their establishment requires, 
 as will enable them to keep the happy 
 medium between prodigality and parsi- 
 mony. 
 
 Some aver that they have no capacity 
 for this matter, no taste for that. But 
 if the things referred to are duties, culti- 
 vate a taste persevere in endeavoring 
 to improve a capacity for them. This 
 world is a beautiful one, spite of what 
 grumblers say, and thousands would find 
 it a much happier one if they studied 
 more what they ought to do, and sought 
 their pleasure or indulged their fancies 
 less. Every human being exercises some 
 influence on the character, happiness 
 and destinies of others, and is account- 
 able for opportunities wasted, and bless- 
 ings neglected or transformed. This is 
 especially true of women. Every sensi- 
 ble, high-minded, right- hearted woman, 
 be she peeress or peasant is, or may be, 
 a blessing to many ; if not by great deeds 
 or achievements the world calls heroic, 
 by a simple, quiet, straightforward per- 
 formance of the duties which lie before 
 her, and are therefore given her to do. 
 
18 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 As it is the business of man to provide 
 the means of living comfortably, so it is 
 the province of woman to dispose judi- 
 ciously of those means, and maintain 
 order and harmony in all things. On 
 her due performance of her part rest the 
 comfort and social peace of home ; while 
 misery and ruin follow her neglect. 
 Some women, it is true, are placed in an 
 unnatural position by having the burden 
 of supporting the family thrown upon 
 them. They have double duties, and a 
 harder part to sustain; but their toils 
 may be materially lightened by care and 
 method in what they have to do. 
 
 So much by way of exordium. We 
 shall now proceed through the various 
 matters appertaining to a house, en- 
 deavoring to present a clear chart of the 
 necessary business, pointing out hidden 
 rocks, and showing how these may be 
 avoided, and the vessel sent to float in 
 calm waters. With much labor we have 
 collected information on all subjects that 
 fall within the proper scope of house- 
 keeping ; and multifarious as these are, 
 it is our belief that she who consults our 
 index will be sure to find whatever she 
 can wish to know. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 THAT sensible and oft-quoted old lady, 
 Mrs. Glasse, begins one of her recipes 
 thus : " First catch your hare." Follow- 
 ing so good an example, we will first take 
 a house and furnish it, before laying down 
 axioms for its management. 
 
 Before any steps are taken, the income 
 or pecuniary means of the parties about 
 to commence housekeeping, should be 
 well considered. It is not well to rush 
 into matrimony without due attention to 
 such sublunary matters as dollars and 
 cents ; for the notion that when once a 
 couple is married, all will go right, is a 
 
 foolish one. A young man with an in- 
 come of four or five hundred dollars, 
 every cent of which has been annually 
 swallowed up by his own expenses, falls 
 in love with a young lady who can sing 
 and play well, speak French and produce 
 marvels in the way of crochet or orna- 
 mental work, who loves sentimental po- 
 etry and romance, and can trim herself a 
 neat bonnet j but knows little of the re- 
 alities of life. Having never known what 
 it is to want any thing she has no idea 
 that any thing can be wanted. The 
 young man feels certain in his own mind 
 that a wife will be an actual saving to 
 him j and makes an eloquent declaration 
 of his aifection. The prospect for the fu- 
 ture is but slender; for he ignores the 
 fact that he has been accustomed to spend 
 half his income on clothes and amuse- 
 ments, which he does not think of doing 
 without ; and she forgets how much she 
 is in the habit of spending on gloves, rib- 
 bons, perfumes, et cetera. When they are 
 married the bridal dress and entertain- 
 ment not being reckoned among their ex- 
 penses they find themselves fettered by 
 a thousand inconveniences, and obliged 
 to deny themselves travelling and many 
 other kinds of recreation; more than 
 that, they discover that the etiquette of 
 this enlightened age, imperiously demands 
 reckless expenditure, when common sense 
 would advise more than usual economy ; 
 and without losing the social position 
 they aim to preserve, they can do nothing 
 but submit. What an eifect on the suc- 
 cess of after-life must be such a begin- 
 ning ! 
 
 However, we do not consider it our 
 mission to enter on Quixotic quarrels 
 with the ways of the world. It is, as 
 our young people soon find 
 
 " A very good world to live in, 
 To lend, to spend, or to give in; 
 But to beg, or borrow, or get one's own, 
 'Tis the very worst world that ever was known." 
 
 In taking a house, the first matters to 
 
THE DWELLING-HOUSE. 
 
 19 
 
 be considered, are the rent we can afford 
 to give, or the money that can be devoted 
 to its purchase, and the locality that suits 
 us best. 
 
 A dwelling in town affords many op- 
 portunities for social intercourse, amuse- 
 ment, and the acquisition of general 
 knowledge ; a suburban residence offers 
 some advantages in healthiness of loca- 
 tion and convenience. The remote coun- 
 try has a distinct class of enjoyments, 
 though want of society often makes time 
 pass slowly. Where locality is not speci- 
 fied, always choose one as open and airy 
 as may be, and where the soil, or at any 
 rate the subsoil, is not clay, where the 
 drainage is good, and there is an ample 
 supply of water, and no neighboring fac- 
 tories giving out noxious gases and poi- 
 sonous smoke and vapor. Too close a 
 vicinity to a churchyard is likewise to be 
 avoided. Of course, the house must be 
 capable of accommodating the family who 
 are to occupy it, and there should always 
 be a spare room or two which can be 
 used for bed-rooms, or other purposes in 
 case of emergency. There should be 
 closets, cellars, &c., and good ventilation 
 front and back. A fee to a well-qualified 
 surveyor is often well bestowed ; for he 
 may detect serious faults in a house 
 which, to an ordinary observer, seems 
 well built and comfortable. 
 
 The agreement with the landlord should 
 be clearly understood, and all liabilities 
 as to taxes, local rates, house repairs, 
 with charges for fixtures, &c., inquired 
 into, and definitely arranged, before the 
 agreement is signed. 
 
 It will be well for every house to have 
 some shelter at its entrance ; a porch or 
 portico, in a style regulated by that of 
 the rest of the building, will be found 
 useful. A hall, vestibule, or entry, is es 1 
 sential, and the size and location of the 
 staircases considerably affect the con- 
 venience of the dwelling. The dining- 
 room should be so placed that the way 
 
 ;o it from the kitchen is easy, and yet so 
 ;hat the noise or odors do not prove an- 
 noying. The general style of the draw- 
 ng-room should be light and cheerful; 
 that of the library plain and quiet. The 
 bed-chambers should be as lofty and 
 spacious as possible, and so contrived 
 that a thorough draught can be obtained, 
 to change the air completely. Each 
 should have a chimney fireplace. Small 
 closets and recesses are to be avoided as 
 sleeping apartments. The nursery should 
 be near the chamber of the mistress. 
 
 Dressing and bath-rooms should be as 
 uniformly attached to bed-rooms as the 
 size of the house and means of the owner 
 will permit ; the bath is an indispensable 
 convenience. Every house should be 
 provided with two water-closets at least. 
 In large establishments, a breakfast-room 
 looking eastward and with glass doors 
 opening on a garden or lawn, a billiard- 
 room for exercise within doors, a room 
 for hunting and fishing tackle, a gallery 
 for music, paintings, or statuary, a lady's 
 boudoir or sitting-room tastefully orna- 
 mented, a school-room, and domestic 
 laboratory, with a conservatory, are 
 convenient additions. A number of 
 rooms for domestic offices are connected 
 with the house, and various cellars, as 
 well as separate buildings, appropriated 
 to many different purposes which we 
 shall not describe particularly. The 
 kitchen will be examined under another 
 head. 
 
 In contriving the mode of warming a 
 house, attention should be paid not mere- 
 ly to economy of fuel, but to the preser- 
 vation of a salubrious atmosphere. A 
 chimney fireplace or grate is preferable 
 to a stove, which is apt to give the air a 
 close or disagreeable smell, and produce 
 headache and stupor. Count Rumford 
 imagined that the hot iron roasted the 
 dust that settled on it, which dust was 
 composed of all sorts of animal and 
 vegetable matters; others complain of 
 
20 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 the extreme dryness of the air. Stoves 
 of brick or earthenware, used in various 
 parts of Europe, are said to be better 
 than iron ; but all close stoves are liable 
 to the objection, that in using them it is 
 difficult to change the air continually, or 
 procure proper ventilation. The same 
 difficulties prevail, to some extent, in 
 warming a house by a furnace, and the 
 dryness of the air is often productive of 
 discomfort. Steam might afford an 
 agreeable and convenient method of 
 warming apartments. Of all the modes 
 usually adopted, the advantage seems to 
 lie with the open fire. The temperature 
 should be steady and not too high : say 
 60 or 62. Apartments in our cities 
 are generally kept at a dangerous degree 
 of heat. Bed-rooms should not be 
 warmed, more than to have the " outside 
 chill " taken off. 
 
 Ventilation is a very important con- 
 sideration. The atmospheric air in 
 breathing loses the constituent that sus- 
 tains life, and must be got rid of, and re- 
 placed by air that is fresh and pure. 
 This change of air should be continually 
 going on in our apartments. Windows 
 that open at the top are useful, the 
 vitiated air ascending to the ceiling. 
 The practice of sleeping in rooms not 
 sufficiently ventilated, is utterly destruc- 
 tive to health. It should be remem- 
 bered also that the vital part of air is 
 exhausted by a burning light. It would 
 be well to have a ventilator in the cen- 
 tre of the ceiling, which can be cpncealed 
 by ornamental work in plaster ; and in 
 the admission of fresh air, care should 
 be taken that it does not come in a di- 
 rect stream, so as to produce unpleasant 
 draughts. 
 
 It is often necessary to fumigate or 
 disinfect the air contaminated by noxious 
 effluvia. Muriatic acid and nitric acid 
 fumes have been employed for this pur- 
 pose, and chlorine, a most effectual agent 
 in destroying noxious qualities in the air, 
 
 generally employed. Chloride of lime 
 and chloride of soda are used as the most 
 convenient preparations. The latter is 
 called Labarraque's Disinfecting Liquid. 
 Vinegar is used in sick rooms, and quick 
 lime, alone or mixed with ashes, in sinks, 
 sewers, &c. 
 
 Having taken our house, it generally 
 wants a thorough cleaning and airing. 
 In spring, autumn, and winter, fires 
 should be kept for three or four days, 
 according to the time the" house has been 
 empty, and to the repairs it has under- 
 gone during that interval ; for of course 
 nobody ought to enter a house in the 
 state of dirt and disrepair in which it is 
 usually left by an out-going tenant, or if 
 they do so under the notion that the 
 landlord will set it all to rights after 
 they are in, they will find out their mis- 
 take, and repent their confidence. 
 
 It sometimes happens that the chief 
 rooms are not papered and painted until 
 the house is let. In such case the in-com- 
 ing tenant generally has the power of 
 choosing the papers, or panellings, and 
 paint. He will, of course, select such as 
 will best harmonize with the color which 
 the furniture and hangings should have. 
 
 We will now suppose the house taken, 
 cleaned thoroughly, and well aired, and 
 will proceed to furnish it. But first we 
 must pause to observe that young people 
 will do well carefully to consider matters 
 before they take upon themselves the 
 troubles and responsibilities of house- 
 keepers. Where their joint savings, or 
 some sum especially bestowed for the 
 purpose by friends or parents, will en- 
 able them to make the necessary outlay 
 for furniture, linen. &c., and yet have 
 something left to put by for " a wet day," 
 and the rent and taxes can be afforded 
 by the income of the husband, it is all 
 well and good. But if money must be 
 borrowed, or debts incurred, begin life in 
 the quietest way, rather than with these 
 incumbrances. Take board or apartments 
 
FTJENISHING A HOUSE. 
 
 21 
 
 for a time, until you see your way clear. 
 From $150 to $400 a year will pay for 
 part of a house in a city, and much less 
 in a village. Board can be obtained in 
 respectable houses at four or five dollars 
 a week and upwards in our largest towns. 
 There are some disadvantages in this 
 mode of living. It is customary to say 
 that boarders are victimized ; one is 
 sometimes brought into contact with 
 disagreeable individuals, who become 
 enemies if they find they are not re- 
 ceived in a sociable or friendly manner j 
 and on the whole, it is wiser to keep 
 house with three or four rooms. There 
 are always respectable families to be 
 found, who will let a set of apartments.' 
 Now to the business of furnishing a 
 house. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 HERE again the unsentimental consider- 
 ation of dollars and cents obtrudes itself. 
 The limit to which we can go is depend- 
 ent upon the funds in hand which may 
 be expended without incurring debt or 
 causing inconvenience. 
 
 It would be curious to trace the his- 
 tory of furniture in different ages* and 
 countries. But we have no space for 
 such a review. The taste has been re- 
 vived of late years, for pieces of ancient 
 furniture, and the skill of cabinetmakers 
 has been brought into requisition to pro- 
 duce imitations of the antique style, or 
 tasteful restorations, by the putting to- 
 gether of fragments, interesting from sin- 
 gular or historical associations. 
 
 Window curtains contribute much to 
 the comfort and elegance of. apartments, 
 tempering the light, an o* excluding the 
 cold air. They may be of various pat- 
 terns and materials. 
 
 The hall, or entry, should be furnished 
 with an umbrella Jand hat stand, and 
 
 chairs or hall seats. If there is a closet 
 for hanging up hats;, cloaks, &c., it should 
 be near the door. Door scrapers should 
 always be placed at the entrance. 
 
 PICTURES ON THE WALL. 
 
 Pictures, if well chosen, add much to 
 the appearance of a room, and impart 
 to it an air of completeness, and a 
 home look, which many people know how 
 to appreciate. To produce this effect, 
 the subjects of the pictures must be such 
 as we caii, truly sympathize with, some- 
 thing to awaken our admiration, rever- 
 ence, or love. All the feelings of our na- 
 ture may be illustrated by pictures. 
 There are some which we seem to make 
 bosom companions of; others have a mo- 
 ral effect, and at times prevent our going 
 astray by their silent monitions. It is, 
 therefore, worth while to take pains and 
 choose good subjects, whether in engrav- 
 ings or paintings, and to frame and hang 
 them suitably when chosen. Gilt frames 
 are most suitable for rather dark paint- 
 ings, and on a deep colored wall ; while 
 prints look well in a frame of composition, 
 oak, rose-wood, or bird's-eye maple, fin- 
 ished with a gilt moulding. Care should 
 be taken to hang them in a proper light, 
 so as best to bring out all the effects of 
 the pictures, and to place them so that 
 the light shall fall from the same side as 
 represented by the painter. In picture 
 galleries and great houses, brass rods are 
 fixed all around the room close to the 
 ceiling, from which the pictures are hung, 
 but in small rooms it is often best not to 
 show the lines or wires by which the pic- 
 tures hang. This is done by nailing a 
 strong cord across the back, about two 
 inches below the top, and then suspend- 
 ing it from two nails standing out but 
 a little way from the wall. When there 
 are several pictures in a room, the ordi- 
 nary rule is, to have either the upper or 
 lower edge of the framep in a line, on 
 whichever side they may be hung. 
 
22 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 For bed-room furniture, mahogany, 
 maple-wood, and oak, are the best and 
 prettiest ; there are also very serviceable, 
 well-polished, stained wood imitations of 
 all these three ; and there are, too, very 
 common and trumpery imitations, which 
 turn shabby in a few months, and are 
 generally badly put together, and do no 
 service ; two good chairs are worth a do- 
 zen of such rubbish. 
 
 As a general rule we should advise 
 avoidance of all cheap, showy furnishing 
 establishments : likewise, unless you are 
 wealthy, of all fashionable upholsterers. 
 Patronize good, old-established houses of 
 business. 
 
 Never buy second-hand bedsteads, bed- 
 ding, or hangings, unless you are well 
 convinced that no more than you bargain 
 for is included in the purchase. 
 
 Iron and brass bedsteads, which can 
 now be had of every size, form, and price, 
 are far preferable, both as regards health, 
 cleanliness, and lightness, to any others. 
 
 It can scarcely be necessary to repeat 
 how injurious to health are very small 
 bed-rooms, and the same rule will apply 
 to curtains which prevent the change of 
 air, compelling us to breathe over again 
 a portion of the air we have expired. 
 The curtains should never enclose the 
 bed. In low chambers, the bed should 
 be near the floor, and the best place for 
 it is at the middle of the side of the room, 
 not touching the wall. 
 
 Chintz or dimity are better for bed- 
 furniture than damask, moreen, or any 
 fabric containing wool ; they harbor less 
 dust and are less liable to hide vermin. 
 
 Three-ply carpets are best adapted for 
 bed-rooms. Never place carpet under a 
 bed, or you provide a resting-place for 
 all the dust and flock which daily falls 
 from the mattresses, and establish a nice 
 hot-bed for fleas. Let the carpet be made 
 in about three pieces, in order that it 
 may be frequently taken up and beaten 
 or shaken, and the floor scrubbed clean. 
 
 Soft feather beds cause an undue 
 warmth that weakens the action of the 
 skin, and makes one susceptible to cold. 
 A well stuffed feather bed, or a mattress, 
 should be used. Good mattresses of 
 wool, and wool and horsehair, iron bed- 
 steads, and as little bed-furniture, cur- 
 tains, &c., as may be, with a light quilt, 
 are the best preventives against rising 
 languid, inert, and unfit in the morning 
 for the duties of the day. The covering 
 should be light. A wide bed affords the 
 luxury Franklin recommends, of moving 
 from side to side, and a bed should have 
 but one occupant. 
 
 Bed-room and dressing-room chairs 
 should be light. Couches, tables, dress- 
 ing-glasses, wash-stands, &c., are necessa- 
 ry articles, and the couches may be made 
 of cheap materials, covered with chintz 
 or brown holland. Bureaus and ward- 
 robes will not be forgotten. Fireguards 
 of painted wire are a security against 
 accidents. Of the smaller articles in use 
 a host might be enumerated j but every- 
 day need will suggest them. 
 
 Never crowd a bed-room with furni- 
 ture ; have that which is really useful 
 and requisite, and no more ; and in fitting 
 it up, always remember that illness often 
 comes when we least expect it, and take 
 care that your room shall possess such 
 articles as will then be needful for com- 
 fort and ease. 
 
 A dining-room requires little furniture, 
 but that little should be good and hand- 
 some, and of mahogany. 
 
 About furnishing drawing-rooms we 
 can give no directions, so much depends 
 upon taste. We would only reiterate 
 our warning to beware of showy, veneer- 
 ed, vamped-up furniture, or, when the 
 room has had a fire in it some dozen times, 
 you will be startled occasionally by re- 
 ports as if small cannon were discharged, 
 and on rising to investigate such alarm- 
 ing noises, you will find, perhaps a crack 
 across one door of the beautiful rosewood 
 
KITCHEN FUKNITTTKE. 
 
 23 
 
 cabinet, or a gaping chasm in that lovely 
 centre table, or a piece of carved work 
 flown off the card table, showing only 
 pine beneath ! 
 
 Here, again, a little furniture tastefully 
 arranged is far better than a crowd of 
 articles ; besides, in one's course through 
 life, furniture accumulates gradually, and 
 if it is necessary to sell one thing in order 
 to make way for another, that is a very 
 losing business. 
 
 We now come to the kitchens, where 
 the wants are multifarious ; for here must 
 be accumulated means of feeding, and 
 cleaning, and keeping in order the whole 
 house. Of course we can give no detailed 
 account of what will be required, as all 
 depends upon the extent and style of the 
 household ; all we can do, therefore, is to 
 make one or two general remarks on the 
 durability of different wares. 
 
 As few copper cooking utensils as pos- 
 sible should be had, and those few should 
 be most thoroughly tinned in the inside, 
 and always carefully cleaned and dried be- 
 fore being put away. We prefer block tin 
 to anything else for saucepans, pots, and 
 kettles generally. Iron does not so quick- 
 ly or plainly tell any tale of dirt or neg- 
 lect ; cast iron is very brittle, and cannot 
 be repaired when broken ; and copper is 
 likely to harbor verdigris. A good dou- 
 ble block tin saucepan should always 
 have the cover, the handle, and the back, 
 kept bright as silver ; and the top, spout, 
 front, and handle of the kettle, should 
 also be kept bright ; for besides that a 
 polished surface maintains heat better 
 than an uneven, blackened one, it looks 
 wonderfully better ; and if the smoke is 
 never allowed to gather on these parts, 
 it is easy to keep the utensils as bright 
 as they were at first. 
 
 For stewpans, iron tinned on the inside 
 is most useful. 
 
 The ancients seem to have used lamps 
 of various forms ; an improvement on 
 torches, certainly, but a more simple con- 
 
 trivance than candles, which in the twelfth 
 century and afterwards, came into use 
 throughout Europe. Wax, spermaceti, 
 and tallow, with different kinds of oil for 
 lamps of an improved fashion, are still in 
 use. Spirit gas and camphene are cleanly 
 substitutes, but extremely dangerous. 
 The lighting of apartments by inflamma- 
 ble gas is one of the most useful results 
 of the investigations of modern science. 
 It is said that Murdoch, an engineer, was 
 the first to make this discovery available 
 on an extensive scale. He commenced 
 his experiments in 1792. 
 
 Candlesticks for common house or 
 kitchen use should be of tin or brass, and 
 large enough to save grease spots. There 
 is no wear in japan. 
 
 Wooden bowls for washing glass and 
 china, and block tin or zinc hand bowls 
 will be found most serviceable. 
 
 All utensils for the conveyance of wa- 
 ter about a house should be of metal, as 
 water-cans of different sizes, hot-water 
 ewers with covers, shaving mugs, &c., as 
 thereby much breakage will be saved, and 
 these, if bought good at first, will, with 
 ordinary care, last a very long time. The 
 same remark applies to foot-baths. Very 
 pretty toilet sets for the wash-stand are 
 also now made in zinc, and beautifully 
 painted or japanned. 
 
 Sarcophagus and other extraordinarily 
 shaped coal-scuttles, are to be avoided as 
 most troublesome and awkward affairs, 
 out of which it is next to impossible to 
 extract coal conveniently. 
 
 Soyer gives the following list of kitchen 
 articles for a family of six. 
 
 Eight copper stewpans, two larger ones, 
 holding one gallon and a half, and the 
 next one gallon, the others smaller by 
 degrees to one pint ; one oval fish-kettle, 
 holding about one gallon and a half; one 
 middle-sized braising-pan ; one preserv- 
 ing-pan; one round bowl for beating 
 whites of eggs ; two saute-pans ; one ome- 
 lette-pan ; one frying-pan ; one bain- ma- 
 
THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 rie ; six saucepans for sauces ; one middle- 
 sized tin pie-mould ; two tin jelly-moulds ; 
 one tin flanc mould for fruit ; one freezing- 
 pot, with every requisite; two baking- 
 sheets ; one gridiron ; one small salaman- 
 der; one colander-spoon ; one bottle-jack ; 
 two spits ; one dripping-pan ; one screen ; 
 one sugar-pan; two soup-ladles; eight 
 copper spoons, two of them colanders ; 
 two wire baskets ; one wire sieve ; two 
 hair sieves; twenty-four tartlet-pans; 
 two tammies; one jelly-bag; twelve 
 wooden spoons ; two paste-brushes ; one 
 pair of scissors; two kitchen knives; 
 six larding-needles ; one packing-needle ; 
 one box of vegetable-cutters ; one box of 
 paste-cutters ; one meat-saw ; one cutlet 
 chopper; one meat chopper; six meat- 
 hooks, tinned; one rolling-pin ; eight 
 kitchen basins ; six china pie-dishes ; six 
 earthen bowls for soups and gravies ; four 
 kitchen table-cloths; eighteen rubbers; 
 twelve fish-napkins ; six pudding-cloths ; 
 four round towels. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 WITH regard to all those articles 
 which fall under the general denomina- 
 tion of "plate," we should advise that 
 all imitations be avoided; let those 
 who cannot afford silver be content to 
 use simple metal, which does not pretend 
 to be more than it really is. All the im- 
 itations of silver will, even with the ut- 
 most care, betray themselves in a very 
 short time, and have a would-be-genteel- 
 if-I-could sort of air, which is ten thou- 
 sand times more ridiculous than the plain- 
 est of all materials ; besides, the money 
 they cost would purchase a few real arti- 
 cles, which are always worth their weight 
 in silver, whereas the imitations have 
 only a nominal value, and lose even that 
 as they become discolored and dull. 
 
 Metal tea and coffee pots may be had 
 very good, and in handsome patterns, 
 
 and are far more durable than china, 
 drawing better, and retaining heat longer. 
 The following is a list of the usual arti- 
 cles in silver required to furnish the 
 table. 
 
 Dishes and covers. Asparagus tongs. 
 
 Table knives and forks. Cheese scoops. 
 
 Dessert knives and forks. Knife rests. 
 
 Table spoons. Nut crackers. 
 
 Dessert spoons. Grape scissors. 
 
 Gravy spoons. Tea urns. 
 
 Soup ladles. Coffee urns. 
 
 Sauce ladles. Tea pots. 
 
 Salt spoons, with gilt Coffee filterers. 
 
 bowls. Sugar basin. 
 
 Fish slice. Cream ewers. ' 
 
 Trays and waiters. Sugar tongs. 
 
 Bread baskets. Tea spoons. 
 
 Cake baskets. Toast racks. 
 
 Decanter stands. Butter coolers. 
 
 Dt canter labels. Snuffer trays. 
 
 Liqueur and bottle stands. Snuffers. 
 
 Cruet frames. Candlesticks. 
 Egg frames. 
 
 Cheap cutlery is mistaken economy. 
 Good knives and forks will, with ordina- 
 ry care, last for years ; common ones have 
 no wear in them, and never can be made 
 to cut well. 
 
 Crockery, china, and glass, we need 
 say little about, for they may be had at 
 all prices and of all qualities. The mould 
 ed or cast glass looks as well as cut glass, 
 if not placed in contrast with it, and 
 wears as long, and costs considerably less. 
 For dishes, pitchers, butter-coolers, &c., 
 we should always use it ; decanters, wine- 
 glasses, and tumblers, do not look so well 
 in it. 
 
 As regards ornamental china, or glass, 
 or what not, little can be said, these things 
 being so much matters of taste ; but it is 
 better to have but one, and that one real- 
 ly handsome and good, than a crowd of 
 cheap, showy trifles ; besides, these are 
 things which gradually accumulate, and 
 therefore it is always better to devote 
 the money in hand to necessary articles, 
 and leave the more ornamental ones for 
 after consideration. A good clock for 
 the kitchen, and a handsome one for the 
 drawing-room, are useful and necessary 
 things, especially the former. 
 
 In household linen, again, it is false 
 
LINEN AND PLATE. 
 
 25 
 
 economy to buy common or cheap mate- 
 rials. For sheets, linen, cotton, and 
 Swiss twilled calico are used ; these sub- 
 stances are now woven wide enough to 
 render a seam unnecessary, and all we 
 have to do is to measure the width of 
 the beds and allow an extra half yard ; 
 the ordinary length of a sheet is three 
 yards and a half. The pillow cases must 
 be of the same material as the sheets. 
 Marseilles quilts are too heavy to be 
 beneficial to health. Any industrious 
 housewife may knit very serviceable and 
 pretty counterpanes in squares or shell- 
 shaped pieces, during those periods when 
 she is chatting, or between the lights, or 
 at hours when she would otherwise most 
 probably be doing nothing. It is for 
 such useful purposes as these we value 
 knitting, crochet, &c., for they can be 
 made the means of economy and useful- 
 ness, instead of being, as they too often 
 are, employed on useless expensive trifles. 
 
 The most durable sort of linen for 
 sheeting is the Russian, German, or Irish 
 fabric, a good stock of which should be 
 laid in to avoid the necessity of frequent 
 or irregular washing. 
 
 An inventory of furniture is given by 
 Soyer as follows : 
 
 Twelve pairs of sheets ; ten ditto pil- 
 low-cases; three dozen napkins; two 
 dozen and a half various-sized table- 
 cloths, including breakfast, dinner, &c. ; 
 six servants' table-cloths; three dozen 
 towels; six round towels; three dozen 
 kitchen rubbers ; two dozen napkins for 
 fish, vegetables, and fruits ; six pudding- 
 cloths ; two dozen damask d'oylies ; one 
 dozen Berlin wool ditto. I also have 
 occasionally in the wash the cover of 
 the carpet, the anti-macassars, which I 
 have knitted at my leisure, and the 
 netted window curtains. Of glass and 
 china, I have the following; they are 
 counted every month, and the broken 
 ones replaced : three dozen ^ ine-glass- 
 
 es ; two dozen champagne ditto: two doz- 
 en claret ditto ; three dozen goblets ; six 
 water caraffes ; six decanters ; one liqueur- 
 stand ; twelve liqueur-glasses ; two glass 
 pitchers; one celery-glass; one trifle- 
 bowl ; eight dessert-dishes. . China : one 
 full dinner service ; one common set for 
 kitchen ; one common tea service for 
 kitchen ; one good tea service ; one break- 
 fast service ; one good dessert service. 
 
 The following is my list of plate: 
 three dozen prongs; two ditto table- 
 spoons; one and a half ditto dessert- 
 spoons; one and a half ditto dessert- 
 forks ; two ditto tea-spoons ; six salt- 
 spoons; one cheese-knife; four butter- 
 knives ; one asparagus-tongs ; two sugar- 
 tongs ; two soup-ladles ; four sauce-la- 
 dles; two gravy-spoons; two sugar-la- 
 dles; two salvers; one bread-basket; 
 four candlesticks ; one hot-water dish for 
 haunch of mutton. 
 
 Table-cloths, tray-cloths, and dinner 
 napkins will of course come under the 
 category of " linen," and can be obtained at 
 very reasonable prices compared with what 
 they were twenty years since. Towels, 
 too, are included in this list. In the case 
 of chamber towels, again, comes diversity 
 of opinion ; some preferring a soft, others 
 a hard, some a rough, and some a smooth 
 towel ; damask and diaper are not soft 
 enough for some delicate skins. For our 
 own part we like towels which administer 
 a certain amount of friction to the skin, 
 and all medical men agree that this is re- 
 quisite to health. For the kitchen, round 
 towels, tea-cloths, and glass-cloths, will 
 be required, as well as dusters, pudding- 
 cloths, knife-cloths, house-cloths, and 
 flannels for cleaning. These will have to 
 be purchased at the same time by young 
 housekeepers newly furnishing, who 
 " have no rags poor things," and there- 
 fore may as well be mentioned here. 
 Old sheets make good glass cloths; old 
 tabfe-cloths make nice soft towels; all 
 
26 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 dresses of cotton, or old dress-linings, will 
 serve for dusters, and old blankets for 
 house-flannels. 
 
 There are also needed toilet-covers for 
 chamber tables, and chests of drawers, 
 &c., carpet qovers, muslin for chamber 
 window-curtains, muslin for drapery for 
 the toilet-table, coarse sheeting for dust- 
 ing-sheets to cover the beds or drawing- 
 room furniture when sweeping and clean- 
 ing ; a yet coarser sheet to lay down in 
 front of the stoves when they are being 
 cleaned; chamois leathers for cleaning 
 the plate, brass, steel, and windows ; and 
 bags for the best brooms. 
 
 Then we come to brushes, and their 
 name is legion. Oh, this furnishing a 
 house is a serious affair ! a carpet-broom. 
 a short-handled one for the stair carpets, 
 a hair-broom for the bed-rooms, and 
 another for the passages and kitchens; 
 feather-brushes, dusting-brushes, stove- 
 brushes, hearth-brushes, shoe-brushes, 
 plate-brushes, paste-brushes, clothes- 
 brushes, a hat-brush, and a table-brush 
 to remove the crumbs from the table- 
 cloth, are all needed ; and these should 
 be bought at a good warehouse, and of 
 good quality, if we would have them do 
 us service, and not fall to pieces, or lose 
 their hair, as soon as they are fairly 
 brought into use. 
 
 There are many items yet unmention- 
 ed, but it will not be requisite for us to 
 waste our time, or that of our readers, by 
 enumerating them all seriatim ; we will 
 therefore proceed to other matters. 
 
 CHAPTER V 
 
 SUPPOSING now that we have our 
 house, and it is furnished, the next 
 thing to determine is how many ser- 
 vants can be afforded. Must we be con- 
 tent with one, a "general house-ser- 
 vant;" or can we afford a cook and 
 
 housemaid, or even aspire to the gen- 
 tility of a man-servant or a butler ? 
 
 The expenses must be determined by 
 the sum which can, without incurring 
 debts or living too closely up to one's in- 
 come, be devoted to " housekeeping," un- 
 der which head we include rent, taxes, 
 wages, and every outlay appertaining to 
 the house. Now, in reckoning the ex- 
 penses of a servant, the question of wages 
 is not the only one to be considered; 
 there is the board and washing; and 
 $100, exclusive of wages, is the lowest 
 at which the keep of each servant can be 
 estimated. 
 
 In hiring servants always be particular 
 in inquiring their character, and, if possi- 
 ble, learn something of the people with 
 whom they have lived; let all stipula- 
 tions as to wages, extras, holidays, and 
 such matters, be clearly specified and 
 rightly understood. 
 
 The greatest trouble in housekeeping 
 is the difficulty of procuring and retaining 
 good servants. In some parts of the 
 world this difficulty is not realized; 
 their servants having been trained for 
 the labor allotted to them, and being 
 contented and happy in their condition 
 without aspirations after change. But 
 in America, both in the city and 
 country, the case is different ; too often 
 men and women look upon service 
 as degrading to them, and will prefer 
 any hardship or privation to engaging 
 in it as a business. Those who do so for 
 a time, are usually tormented with jealous 
 fears that their dignity will be infringed 
 on, or are found neither qualified nor 
 trustworthy. Housekeepers are mainly 
 dependent on the Irish and German emi- 
 grants, who as a rule are utterly ignorant 
 of household service, and have to be 
 taught every thing ; often receiving wages 
 for months Itefore they begin to make 
 themselves useful. By the time they 
 can be trusted to do the work, they are 
 corrupted by intercourse with other ser- 
 
SERVANTS. 
 
 27 
 
 vants, or persons who prompt them to 
 make exactions on your time for visiting 
 their numerous relatives from the old 
 country, as well as to fill your kitchen 
 with strangers, till the annoyance be- 
 comes intolerable. A complaint on this 
 score from the employers is followed by 
 an outbreak of insolence, and the abrupt 
 departure of the servant you have taken 
 such pains to teach ; and so unusual is 
 it to find one who knows any thing 
 that she will readily get another place, 
 perhaps with one of your neighbors who 
 has envied you her possession. 
 
 An English lady gave this account of 
 the progress of a favorite " The first 
 year she was a good servant ; the second 
 an indulgent mistress j the third an in- 
 tolerable tyrant." 
 
 A good maxim is to select servants not 
 younger than thirty ; they are, as a rule, 
 less fond of change, and better satisfied 
 when really comfortable. But change is 
 the order of things in the United States. 
 Kespecting servants, there are a few 
 things which cannot be too strongly 
 urged ; one is, never to retain a cook who 
 is not fond of her occupation ; for unless 
 she take pleasure in her art, she cannot 
 be depended upon for accuracy in the 
 preparation of dishes with which she is 
 well acquainted, and will not easily be 
 induced to acquire any thing new. She 
 also must possess a natural regard for 
 cleanliness, or all the pains in the world 
 will never render her cleanly: where 
 dirty habits are manifested, dismissal 
 should follow, for in almost every in- 
 stance they will be found incurable. 
 Another point of main importance is her 
 temper ; for if that be not good, she will 
 be disinclined to receive instructions 
 and, if found fault with, may, out of 
 pique, spoil a dinner; whereas a good- 
 humored, intelligent servant, when made 
 acquainted with the habits of the house 
 and equal to her common duties, will 
 hardly fail of success when called upon 
 
 by her mistress to try any of those re- 
 ceipts which she has not already used. 
 
 The low character of servants heard of 
 ,t common intelligence offices has caused 
 such places to be held in small esteem ; 
 br their recommendations can in no case 
 je depended on. There are institutions 
 in Great Britain which have for their 
 object the security of housekeepers from 
 the evils of disreputable and dishonest 
 nmates. The officials are so minute in 
 their inquiries into character, as to pre- 
 clude the necessity of those who hire 
 from their office taking any trouble 
 themselves in the business. Servants 
 whose characters will not bear the strict- 
 est investigation will scarcely apply to 
 such institutions. They are sorely need- 
 ed in this country. 
 
 It may be curious to see the list of ser- 
 vants which form the household of a 
 British nobleman of high rank, or a 
 wealthy citizen, who keeps from twenty 
 to thirty domestics. 
 
 Women. 
 
 Housekeeper. 
 
 A lady's maid for each grown lady of the family. 
 
 Cook. 
 Upper housemaid. 
 
 Laundry maid. 
 
 Under housemaid. 
 
 Under laundry maid. 
 
 Still room maid. 
 
 Kitchen maid. 
 
 Scullion. 
 (To this establishment that of the nursery is added.) 
 
 Men. 
 
 House steward. 
 
 Groom of the chamber. 
 
 Valet to each gentleman in the family. 
 
 Man cook. 
 
 Butler. 
 
 Gentleman's footman. 
 
 Lady's footman. 
 
 Under butler. 
 
 Gentleman's coachman. 
 
 Lady's coachman. 
 
 Couriers. Outriders. 
 
 Grooms, in number according to the stud. 
 
 Under servants. Errand boys. 
 
 Steward's boy. 
 
 In the United States so many servants 
 are rarely kept in one family, even among 
 millionnaires, or in the Southern States j 
 
28 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 where formerly it was customary for each 
 member of the family to have a separate 
 attendant. An extensive establishment 
 would perhaps number a coachman, 
 groom, porter, footman, gardener, butler, 
 and perhaps a valet and French cook ; 
 the female servants consisting of a house- 
 keeper, cook, scullion, lady's maid, cham- 
 bermaid, laundrymaid, nurse, and one or 
 more maids-of-all-work. Indeed the 
 most wealthy families keep less than 
 half this number; and the average not 
 more than three women and one man- 
 servant. Those of slender income are 
 content with .one for "general house- 
 work." 
 
 In all large estabh'shments in England 
 the men and women servants, in the in- 
 tervals of their employments, are never 
 allowed to sit in the same room, but 
 have their separate places of resort, as- 
 sembling together only at dinner and 
 supper. It is the duty of the steward 
 and housekeeper to see this regulation 
 observed. 
 
 In servants generally we look for the 
 essential qualities of integrity, sobriety, 
 cleanliness, and general propriety in 
 manner, with knowledge of their duties 
 in the departments they profess to un- 
 derstand. A glance at some reprehen- 
 sible practices among them may be use- 
 ful, as every instance of pilfering and 
 trickery accumulates odium on the whole 
 class. One of the chief anxieties of 
 housekeeping is the apprehension of the 
 dishonesty of those who are under our 
 roof and receiving bread from our hands ; 
 and suspicion, for which there is often 
 just cause, injures both the employer 
 and the employed. Cooks have been 
 found to dispose of provisions in other 
 ways than for the use of the family 
 they serve. Presents are someti.-i.es 
 demanded by servants from the trades- 
 people dealt with by the master. The 
 so-called " honor," which prevents a ser- 
 vant from exposing the frauds and mis- 
 
 conduct going on among others, is but 
 another name for deception and dishon- 
 esty. The servant who knows of frauds 
 and is silent, becomes an accomplice. 
 
 Though it is very disagreeable to sus-. 
 pect any one's honesty, it is yet prudent 
 to weigh meat, sugar, &c., when brought 
 in, and to -compare the weight with the 
 charge. Scales should be placed in the 
 kitchen, near the door used by the 
 tradespeople. The knowledge of such 
 things as weights and scales being in 
 use, will operate as a check to any petty 
 fraud which might otherwise be contem- 
 plated. 
 
 In large establishments abroad the 
 servants have sometimes an allowance of 
 food, or are kept on board wages. The 
 former system prevails on plantations at 
 the South, among field laborers only; 
 the servants in families, as in the North- 
 ern States, taking their meals immediate- 
 ly after, and on the remains of the family 
 meals. 
 
 The perquisites of servants are, in 
 many cases, so many encroachments on 
 the property of their employers, who ta- 
 citly allow, while they in principle con- 
 demn the practice. There is no doubt 
 that perquisites tend to corrupt the 
 morals of domestics, placing their own 
 interests in opposition to those of others, 
 and offering temptation against which 
 their integrity is not always proof. 
 Among these objectionable customs, one 
 that particularly calls for attention as an 
 odious kind of taxation, is the practice of 
 servants receiving vails, or presents in 
 money, from visitors. It is a species of 
 bribery for services which ought to be 
 performed without it, and tends to make 
 servants less attentive to those who can- 
 not give them great pecuniary rewards. 
 This custom has grown into disuse in 
 England, and most highly respectable 
 families make it a condition in hiring 
 their servants, that they shall accept no 
 such gifts, but when they are offered 
 
PRESENTS TO SERVANTS. 
 
 shall inform the visitor that it is con- 
 trary to the rule of the house to take 
 them. It was formerly so usual in ho- 
 tels in the United States for the attend- 
 ants to expect gifts from the guests, 
 that one could not obtain any service 
 without it. I knew a party of travellers 
 visiting Niagara, to leave the dining- 
 room, unable to obtain any thing to eat, 
 the waiters not attending to them. One 
 who had been longer in the house, in- 
 formed them they would not be served 
 unless each person gave fifty cents to 
 one of the waiters who, in fact, were 
 paid no wages, but allowed to extract all 
 they could from travellers ! This is 
 downright swindling on the part of hotel 
 proprietors, and no respectable landlord 
 now permits such impositions. In all 
 the first-class hotels in our cities, per- 
 sons should be particularly requested to 
 give no fees to servants. The charges 
 per day at hotels certainly ought to 
 cover ordinary attendance ; extra ser- 
 vices may be paid' for. But as the cus- 
 tom still prevails more or less among 
 many travellers to give gratuities to ser- 
 vants, proprietors of public houses ought 
 to be the more resolute in abolishing a 
 practice tending to produce murmuring, 
 discontent, and neglect of duties among 
 their domestics. The caution should be 
 inserted among the printed rules of the 
 establishment, and the servant discharged 
 who is known to receive any thing in 
 this way. 
 
 Still more onerous and odious is the 
 custom that inflicts a tax upon visitors 
 in private families, in violation of the 
 sacred obligations of hospitality. Such 
 a burden is this felt to be, that many 
 are compelled to refuse invitations to the 
 houses of their friends on account of it. 
 A lady friend of ours informed us that 
 the expense of a short visit to one of her 
 neighbors was made, by this necessity, 
 to exceed what she would have paid at 
 the highest rate of hotel fare. We found 
 
 this the case on spending a day or so in a 
 very large establishment at the invitation 
 of the owner ; each servant on the premi- 
 ses expecting gratuities. They learn, of 
 course, to estimate the worth or standing 
 of a guest by the amount bestowed on 
 them, and frequently to treat with inso- 
 lence or contempt those who cannot give 
 so much. A '-help" in New Jersey, 
 was highly indignant at receiving a pres- 
 ent of a mousseline de laine dress instead 
 of a silk one, and declared she would not 
 have it made up. We knew of another 
 lady who efnptied her purse to give five 
 dollars each to several flaunting girls in 
 the house where she was staying ; though 
 she was obliged to deny herself many 
 things for want of the money. " If you 
 do not give them something very elegant, 
 they will make fun of you ; nothing sim- 
 ple will please them ; " said another lady 
 when consulted on the subject. What a 
 motive for liberality ! 
 
 There are very few who have moral 
 courage enough to be independent in such 
 things, even though their charities have 
 to be stinted in consequence ; especially 
 when it is known that the mistress fre 
 quently asks her servants what they re- 
 ceived from her guests, and even draws 
 conclusions founded on their information ! 
 So at the risk of inconvenience or impov- 
 erishment, the tax must be paid ; though 
 as a rule it is always paid with secret 
 dissatisfaction. What an insult to the 
 name of hospitality is this ! 
 
 The prevailing motive for this kind of 
 liberality is not the charity which delight- 
 eth in giving but a selfish fear of being 
 thought penurious by one's friends, or of 
 being ridiculed by saucy servants. We 
 do not remember a single instance in 
 which the custom, considered imperative, 
 when mentioned at all, has not been men- 
 tioned with condemnation. It should be 
 utterly and for ever abolished. The mis- 
 tress, in hiring a domestic, should make 
 known her invariable rule that such 
 
30 
 
 THE PEACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 things are not to be allowed, and should 
 let it be known among all her friends. 
 
 We do not object to the largest kind 
 of liberality in giving. The poor and 
 needy have claims that meet us at every 
 turn ; and the most rigid self-denial to 
 satisfy their just demands, is commenda- 
 ble. It is an excellent rule "My super- 
 fluity must give way to my neighbor's 
 convenience ; my convenience to his ne- 
 cessity ; my necessity to his destitution." 
 In instances where our regard is attract- 
 ed by a kind and faithful domestic in a 
 friend's family, or where circumstances 
 would render a gift peculiarly acceptable, 
 it is pleasant to give and right to receive. 
 We object to the system which makes 
 present- giving compulsory without re- 
 gard to the feelings or means of the do- 
 nor, or the necessities of the receiver. 
 And what well-bred lady who invites her 
 friends for the pleasure of their society, 
 would willingly have them feel under the 
 necessity of putting themselves to incon- 
 venience to give large fees to her servants, 
 already well paid for the trifling services 
 they render ? 
 
 The custom which we have understood 
 is actually prevalent in some places, of 
 visitors " making up in presents " the ex- 
 pense incurred by their friends in hospi- 
 tably entertaining them, is certainly 
 " better honored in the breach than the 
 observance." What hospitality can there 
 be, when an equivalent is offered and re- 
 ceived ? It would be more fair and open 
 to make the bargain regularly in dollars 
 and cents. The indirect exaction of com- 
 pensation in this way, frequently beyond 
 what could reasonably be charged, appears 
 to us to be speculation without the s. 
 Yet we occasionally hear of this as ex- 
 pected from visitors. A lady in the States 
 once said to her guest: "I know you 
 will want to make me some nice present 
 before you go away ; I will tell you what 
 I would like: &c." A lady from the 
 country who staid a fortnight with a 
 
 city friend, left money when she went 
 away to purchase " some sort of a present." 
 All we have to say of this and every oth- 
 er practice tending to make gifts (which 
 should be free as the love that ought alone 
 to prompt them) in the slightest degree 
 compulsory, is, that it is wrong, and en- 
 tirely subversive of true friendship. 
 
 To return to our subject. It is in vain 
 that societies are formed for the encour- 
 agement of faithful domestics, by giving 
 premiums and high testimonials to those 
 who serve a reasonable time in the same 
 family. These last are not valued, where 
 a choice of places can be had without 
 them, and the roving disposition is fos- 
 tered by the notion of independence and 
 the certainty of being well paid for doing 
 as one pleases. 
 
 The only protection to housekeepers 
 from this endless source of discomfort, is 
 to be found in correcting the mistaken 
 notion among American girls that a place 
 in domestic service is less honorable than 
 the severer toils of seamstresses, binders, 
 shopkeepers, or milliners' workwomen. 
 If they could be persuaded, instead of 
 wasting away their lives in health-de- 
 stroying needlework, miserably paid for 
 by speculators in female servitude, to 
 engage in the active and varied duties of 
 domestics, secure of a good home and 
 abundant wages a new era would com- 
 mence for American housewives. 
 
 Something might be done towards this 
 end by regulating the hours devoted to 
 household employments, in such a way 
 as to leave a portion of the day for the 
 girl's own time, which she is at liberty 
 to employ as she pleases; and by en- 
 couraging her to use it in the acquire- 
 ment of useful knowledge. " It requires 
 a refined mind to dust properly ; " and 
 the cultivation of intellect will not be 
 thrown away in any department. Let 
 the humiliation of servitude be thus 
 taken away, and persons who have seen 
 better days will engage in the occupa- 
 
DUTIES OF THE MISTRESS. 
 
 31 
 
 tion. We would recommend the estab- 
 lishment of an Association in our la] 
 cities to find suitable places for persons 
 of a respectable class, stipulate for suit- 
 able privileges, and persuade them to this 
 easy mode of earning a livelihood. The 
 gratitude of the community would be due 
 to such an institution. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 As a country cannot be governed with- 
 out laws, neither can a household ; and 
 the mistress should be as absolute in her 
 own house as a sovereign in her do- 
 minions. Order and regularity are the 
 key-stones to comfort, and our housewife 
 must carefully arrange and digest her 
 scheme of government in the first place, 
 and be always alive to any modifications 
 which emergencies, or prudence, or cir- 
 cumstances, may call for. And she must 
 understand what she is about, or her 
 scheme will be worthless ; she must be 
 able to teach, nay, to demonstrate upon 
 occasions; she must be regular in her 
 own habits if she would have those about 
 her regular, neat in all that concerns her- 
 self, attentive to the details of housekeep- 
 ing, economical, just, active, and consider- 
 ate. She must neither hold the reins 
 of government loosely and negligently, 
 nor too sternly, but must quietly exercise 
 a general and regular surveillance over 
 every part of her house and household ; 
 and this can be done without tyranny, 
 without vexatious interference, or exhi- 
 bitions of temper. Let the servants once 
 feel that this is her habit, and they will 
 act accordingly ; and if the place is good, 
 conduct themselves so as to endeavor to 
 please and keep it. And it is the inter- 
 est, as well as duty, of every mistress, to" 
 make her servants comfortable ; to see 
 that they have a sufficiency of good food, 
 that they are well lodged ; that they have 
 
 time to mend and wash their own clothes, 
 nay, that they know how to do so, and 
 doit. 
 
 " Do not send your clothes home to 
 your mother to wash and mend," said a 
 friend of ours to a new servant ; " you 
 will have plenty of time to arrange them 
 yourself." 
 
 " Please, mum, I don't know how ! " 
 replied the girl. 
 
 "Well, Mary, you shall be taught, 
 then, for it is time you did know how ! " 
 
 "But please, mum, I don't want to 
 learn!" said the girl; and learn she 
 would not, for the foolish indulgence 
 which leads mothers to spare their chil- 
 dren all occupations they do not like, is 
 as prevalent among the poorer as among 
 other classes. 
 
 To return : a mistress need never for- 
 get herself, nor weaken her authority, 
 nor show any false indulgence ; but in 
 numerous ways she will have the op- 
 portunity of endeavoring to guide, to 
 advise, and to benefit those dependent 
 upon her ; but she must be patient, if she 
 would really do good. She must remem- 
 ber what may have been the early edu- 
 cation, the trials and temptations, the 
 experiences of those girls, and must not 
 expect too much from them. As we 
 have before said, she must hold the reins 
 of government with a firm hand; she 
 must not overlook neglect of duties, ir- 
 regularities of conduct, want of order or 
 cleanliness, or inattention to her com- 
 mands ; but she can notice these things 
 quietly, without loss of temper, and 
 when alone with the offender ; and she 
 can also notice and praise neatness, at- 
 tention, obedience, and such like, and not 
 accept the good as mere matters of course, 
 and only mark the evil. She should like- 
 wise endeavor to induce her servant, by 
 example and precept, to be regular in at- 
 tendance on religious worship, and make 
 Sunday to them in some degree a day of 
 rest, instead of one of extra cooking and 
 
32 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 work, and should have a supply of those 
 excellent little works to lend them, which 
 are published by the religious societies 
 While she inculcates economy in things 
 relating to herself, she should try to in- 
 duce them to save ; to put by regularly a 
 certain portion of their wages, and not 
 be extravagant in clothes, but make and 
 mend their things properly. 
 
 There is little saved by giving paltry 
 wages ; a useful servant will not accept 
 them, and those who do, cannot clothe 
 themselves respectably, and will too often 
 eke out their means by peculation. It is 
 well to begin with moderate wages, and 
 promise an annual increase, which pro- 
 mise both induces a wish to , please, and 
 takes away one great excuse for leaving, 
 viz., a desire of "bettering herself." 
 Even in the present "degenerate age," 
 attached servants are to be found, and 
 may be created. We are all more or less 
 human, and human affections and home 
 ties act upon us ; we learn to love those 
 who are kind, courteous, and consider- 
 ate ; we value the notice and regard of 
 our superiors, and we take a certain 
 pride in deserving their good opinion. 
 The fault lies in that antagonism of 
 classes, that want of understanding each 
 other, that forgetfulness that all are fel- 
 low-creatures, that tendency to regard 
 each other as mutual enemies to be con- 
 quered or circumvented. 
 
 But we will pass to another topic. 
 The amount of the yicome will deter- 
 mine what sum can be allowed per an- 
 num for housekeeping ; for besides, there 
 will be clothing expenses to be provided 
 for, sundries of Various kinds, expenses 
 of illness, on which we must all reckon, 
 and there ought to be a reserve fund 
 regularly laid by to provide for any un- 
 foreseen emergency, or form the "nest 
 egg " of a provision for a rising family. 
 Well, suppose the sum determined ! the 
 next question is, how to apportion it so 
 as to combine economy with comfort, and 
 
 secure a regular and uniform style of 
 living j not luxuries to-day and parsimony 
 to-morrow. Now, how can our young 
 housekeeper do this, if she knows little 
 or nothing of the prices of provisions ; if 
 she scarcely remembers when things are 
 in season and may be purchased at a rea- 
 sonable rate, and when they are actual 
 extravagances ; if she has no idea what 
 quantity of this or that ought to be con- 
 sumed, by a family of a certain size, per 
 week or per month; and, above all, if 
 she has little aptitude for domestic man- 
 agement, and considerable contempt for, 
 all such vulgar details ? Few who have 
 read that truthful sketch of Dickens, the 
 " child-wife," will forget the pretty help- 
 lessness of Dora; but, although this 
 reads well in a novel, very few such girls, 
 and there are many of them, will meet 
 with husbands as indulgent; for men 
 like to see their home well ordered, and 
 to feel the comforts of good manage- 
 ment.. Every girl, or almost every girl, 
 looks upon marriage as the great aim 
 and end of her existence ; but unfortu- 
 nately, she regards it, as it is treated in 
 novels, as the concluding chapter, the en- 
 trance to that " and-lived-happily-ever- 
 after " state of bliss which we read of in 
 fairy tales. And certainly it is the en- 
 trance to a new life, though not one so 
 rose-colored as she dreamed; it takes 
 her from the home where she has been 
 nurtured, cared for, provided for, perhaps 
 petted and indulged, and places her where 
 she will have to be the presiding intelli- 
 gence ; where all will look to her for 
 guidance and instruction; where her 
 happiness and comfort, and that of her 
 husband, will depend upon how she is 
 qualified to fulfil the duties she has un- 
 dertaken. Mothers, wishing to have 
 your daughters well married, how have 
 you prepared them for the duties you 
 well know they will have to perform? 
 Perhaps you were domestically educated, 
 for our grandmothers were more careful 
 
HOUSEKEEPING ACCOUNTS. 
 
 33 
 
 in their generation, and thought it no de- 
 gradation to be good housewives ! Per- 
 haps you have had to fight your way 
 through a host of painful lessons, of an- 
 noyances, losses, and domestic worries. 
 Do you never look back upon that miser- 
 able time, and feel anxious to spare your 
 children a similar probation ? Life, even 
 at its best, has enough of painful experi- 
 ences, without our doubling them by 
 neglecting to teach each individual, in 
 proper time, the things she will be ex- 
 pected to know when she readies woman's 
 estate. 
 
 Every housekeeper should keep a strict 
 account of all her expenditures ; should 
 see that each bill is receipted when paid ; 
 should file all receipts, and keep them for a 
 year at least we should rather say two 
 or three. All housekeeping bills should 
 be paid every week, for it is easier to pay 
 small sums than large ones ; and besides, 
 the correctness of the bills can then be 
 ascertained. The mistress should look 
 over each one herself, and thus she will 
 detect, and can check, any inaccuracy on 
 the part of the tradesmen, or extrava- 
 gance on the part of her servants. Should 
 she be her own housekeeper, let her deal 
 regularly with respectable tradesmen, for 
 they will rarely risk losing a good 
 customer by sending bad goods. Bar- 
 gain-hunting is always perilous, even to 
 good judges. Cheap tea, coffee, sugar, 
 &c., are all adulterate^; cheap vegeta- 
 bles and fruit are generally stale ; cheap 
 meat is that which has been sent ready 
 killed to the market, and therefore is by 
 no means as fresh as might be wished ; 
 and cheap poultry and fish are to be re- 
 garded with very great suspicion. 
 
 Those who have store-closets will find 
 their advantage in purchasing some things 
 wholesale. Candles should be bought 
 in the latter part of summer, when they 
 are usually cheaper, and a store laid in, 
 for they improve by keeping. So does 
 
 soap. Coal, too, should be ordered in 
 July or August, and if there is cellarage, 
 a stock for the winter laid in. Many 
 groceries may be purchased in quantities 
 at considerable saving. The same remark 
 applies to bacon, butter, and cheese ; but 
 unless there are good dry storerooms, 
 these latter cannot be k*ept. It is use- 
 less to make pickles or preserves unless 
 the house is dry in damp localities these 
 things mildew and spoil ; nor are we sure 
 that in small families it is economical to 
 make them at all, they can be bought so 
 reasonably. All stores should be kept 
 by the mistress, and given out as re- 
 quired. 
 
 AH good homckeepers will provide 
 themselves with weights and scales, and 
 thus be prepared to check the quantities 
 of stores sent them by their tradespeople, 
 who are as liable to make errors in 
 weighing as in casting their bills. We 
 cannot too particularly impress this upon 
 the attention of our readers, as an essen- 
 tial means of protecting themselves against 
 errors in weight, whether arising from 
 accident or design. Many heads of fami- 
 lies are exceedingly particular about the 
 price of their purchases, who are utterly 
 regardless whether or not they have the 
 weight they paid for. Tradesmen are 
 aware of this trust reposed in them, and 
 too often take advantage of it. Unlike 
 the symbol of Justice, who. as she holds 
 the scales in her hands, is blind to all 
 partialities, some tradesmen (some es- 
 pecially amongst the class who are 
 purveyors to the poor) are too open-eyed 
 to see that they descend in their own 
 favor. 
 
 In the realm which our housewife is to 
 govern, order, cleanliness, punctuality, 
 and economy must be the fundamental 
 principles which, by precept and practice, 
 she endeavors to enforce. It matters 
 little whether her subjects are limited to 
 a single maid-of-all-work, or general 
 
34: 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 Work Table. 
 
 servant, as it is now the fashion to calf 
 this domestic, or whether she reign 
 over two, three, or more "helps," still 
 the principle must be the same ; a cer- 
 tain routine of daily and weekly duties 
 must be laid down, and it lies with the 
 mistress to see that not only these are 
 performed properly, but that all inciden- 
 tal matters are likewise attended to. 
 However wealthy a family may be, they 
 are not willing that their houses and fur- 
 niture should be injured by neglect or 
 mismanagement. Money can enable 
 man to hire more domestics, but it cannot 
 provide that these persons shall be clean 
 ly, diligent, trustworthy, and painstak 
 ing ; it cannot secure him from the conse- 
 quences of their ignorance, their careless 
 ness, their extravagance. Nothing bu 
 the supervision of the mistress, or a goo( 
 housekeeper, can do this. If, then, a rich 
 man, who can pay the best wages, anc 
 hire the most experienced servants, find 
 still that he lacks something, how muc 
 
 more will one of moderate income or 
 f limited means suffer, should he not 
 find in his wife a housewife ? 
 
 What I am now about to say, some of 
 ny readers may think perhaps out of 
 lace; nevertheless I shall say it. A 
 woman cannot really do her duty as a 
 wife, mother, or mistress of a family, 
 unless she is fully sensible of the impor- 
 ance of health, and gives to all sanitary 
 measures their due attention. ^Vith loss 
 f health come diminished powers of 
 usefulness. Languor and delicacy in a 
 wife may call forth the sympathies, but 
 do not increase the comforts or happiness 
 of a professional or business man ; neither 
 do they render a woman more inclined 
 for, or equal to, the performance of her 
 part in domestic life. And too many of 
 our young girls render themselves languid, 
 feeble, and delicate, by inattention to the 
 commonest requirements of human nature. 
 The crying evil of small towns is usually 
 the want of baths attached to houses, and 
 the small size of bed-rooms ; now these 
 are in general accepted as things which 
 must be endured, and little or no attempt 
 is made to palliate them. All medical 
 men, however, agree that plentiful ablu- 
 tions of the body with cold or tepid 
 water, and a good supply of fresh air in 
 every sleeping and sitting-room, do more 
 to preserve health than all the drugs in 
 the pharmacopoeia. And next to these 
 come early rising, avoidance of late hours 
 and crowded assemblies, regular exercise 
 in the open air, attention to diet, and 
 abstinence from pernicious viands, as 
 pastry, sweetmeats, rich gravies, unripe 
 fruit, &c. Pork, veal, and various kinds 
 of vegetables can only be eaten sparingly 
 and occasionally by some persons. Spir- 
 its should only be used medicinally, that 
 is to say, at times when common sense 
 tells us they might be of benefit. To 
 take them habitually is equivalent to 
 slow poison. 
 Besides the benefit a woman derives in 
 
IMPORTANCE OF HEALTH. 
 
 35 
 
 her health and person from attention to 
 all matters relative to personal care, she 
 will gain another in the effect of her 
 example upon her dependants ; for we are 
 all, to a certain extent, creatures of imita- 
 tion, and prone to follow example, be it 
 good or bad. Servants who see before 
 them one who consistently practises the 
 virtues of economy, regularity, personal 
 cleanliness, and general neatness, will 
 never run diametrically counter to all 
 this, but will in some degree shape their 
 conduct accordingly, while all the pre- 
 cepts in the world, without practice, will 
 but go in at one ear and out at the other. 
 Where only one or two servants are 
 kept, the mistress will do well not to 
 leave her chamber before she has opened 
 her windows, and laid the bed-clothes 
 ba^k over two chairs so as to insure the 
 sheets and blankets, heated by contact 
 with the body all night, being well aired 
 and cooled. No bed should be made, or 
 night-dress folded up, until it has been 
 aired, and suffered thoroughly to cool for 
 at least two hours. Nurseries should be 
 aired while the children are at breakfast, 
 and while they are taking their morning 
 walk. Dining and drawing-rooms re- 
 quire a current of fresh air passed through 
 them at least once every day, to dislodge 
 all the stale atmosphere tainted by the 
 smell of food, flowers, &c., and by having 
 been inhaled by those using the rooms. 
 Many of our readers have doubtless been 
 struck, on entering some houses, by the 
 close, faint, unwholesome smell they, 
 coming from the fresh air, at once per- 
 ceive. Those who dwell in it habitually 
 are not conscious of it. They dread the 
 chill of fresh air, or the dust it will bring 
 with it into their rooms ; and therefore 
 shut it carefully out, and cherish in its 
 stead a species of slow poison a heavy 
 atmosphere loaded with all sorts of per- 
 nicious gases. 
 
 Light, too, is another forbidden lux- 
 ury in some houses. Heavy Venetian 
 
 blinds jealously protect the delicate hues 
 of the curtains and carpets from its in- 
 fluence, and the inmates consequently 
 fade instead of their upholstery ; for a 
 human being can no more do without 
 light than can a flower, and we only 
 need place this latter in a cellar for a few 
 days, and we shall see how it will look. 
 It must not, however, be supposed that 
 we would recklessly suffer the noonday 
 sun to shine on our damask curtains or 
 tapestried carpets, or that we should 
 open our windows when rain, hail, or 
 snow beat full upon them ; all we wish 
 to do is v to advise such a use of the 
 choicest gifts of Providence, as health 
 requires and common sense would dic- 
 tate. 
 
 Nor is it only with a view to exercis- 
 ing a salutary influence upon her domes- 
 tics and strengthening herself, that we 
 would counsel our housewife to pay 
 strict attention to all matters of sanitary 
 importance. A female writer of some 
 celebrity has said, " If. before marriage, 
 a woman has been deluded into the no- 
 tion that a multiplicity of small ailments 
 invested her character with an interest- 
 ing kind of delicacy, the sooner she be- 
 comes well after marriage, the better for 
 herself and all around her." 
 
 Now we do not intend to assert that 
 there are not many men who are un- 
 wearied in their tenderness in time of 
 illness ; but this we must say. that there 
 are thousands more who " vote sickness 
 a bore ; " who have little sympathy with, 
 little tolerance for it ; who married to 
 have a cheerful companion, not a droop- 
 ing, languid invalid, to come home to ; 
 and who soon begin to seek elsewhere 
 that companionship and cheerfulness 
 they have failed to find at home. And 
 alas ! when a man's love has once been 
 dimmed, or alienated from his wife, it 
 never wholly recovers its lost lustre, but 
 remains a mere mechanical matter of 
 duty or honor, and too often not even 
 
36 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 that. Matrimony may bind a man to 
 his wife legally, but herself only can re- 
 tain her empire over his heart ; and to 
 do this, she will need even more than 
 her former charms and attractions and 
 fascinations, besides a vast variety of 
 other attributes which her new position 
 will require of her. 
 
 Women little dream what they peril 
 when, after marriage, they neglect the 
 accomplishments, the tasteful dress and 
 adornment, the charming coqnetlerie of 
 manner, which enthralled the lover. 
 They not only risk their happiness, for 
 it depends on him, but they neglect what 
 ought to be their highest ambition, that 
 of proving how much dearer is the wife 
 than the mistress, and of rendering his 
 home a refuge from cares, a scene of 
 tranquil happiness, of social enjoyment, 
 and of real comfort. Milton is not ut- 
 tering a merely poetical exclamation, but 
 a great truth, when he says 
 
 " For nothing lovelier can be found 
 In woman than to study household good, 
 And good works in her husband to promote ; " 
 
 for a woman who is true to herself will 
 inevitably be the better angel of her hus- 
 band. Contact with her true heart, her 
 gentle pursuance of all her duties, and 
 with her cheerful, rational, and earnest 
 spirit, will restore the tone of his mind, 
 defiled, saddened, rendered morbid, it 
 may be, by contact with the outer world 
 and all its chicanery, its worry and its 
 debasing influences. Wisely are all 
 things ordered, if we would hot, by our 
 follies, our impatience and self-seeking, 
 derange them. Beautiful is the mission 
 of woman, if she would but see it in all 
 its holiness and brightness. 
 
 Those who have a home which they 
 can make happy, will not sigh for con- 
 tact with the outer world, to be per- 
 mitted to wrestle and contend among its 
 fierce trials and the fiercer spirits that 
 struggle there for daily bread j or despise 
 
 the peaceful path of domestic duty, 
 which, although it has its trials, is yet 
 in a great degree sheltered ; or reject the 
 gentle ties of wife, mother, sister, to 
 study some learned profession, and rush 
 into those haunts and paths already too 
 crowded with the sterner sex. Such 
 must be the lot, nevertheless, of many 
 women, whom necessitous circumstances 
 have forced into an unnatural position. 
 
 Our " model housewife " believes with 
 us that we should endeavor a 
 
 ;t "Well ordered home, man's best delight, to make ; 
 And by submissive wisdom, modest skill, 
 With every gentle, care-eluding art, 
 To raise the virtues, animate the bliss, 
 And sweeten all the toils of human life ; 
 This is true female dignity and praise." 
 
 So turn we now again to more practical 
 matters. 
 
 There are few things more perplexing 
 at first to young housewives than the 
 momentous question of dinner. A social 
 dinner party, and a quiet family dinner, 
 require equal consideration. We once 
 heard of an old bachelor who, to save 
 himself the daily trouble of stating what 
 he would have for dinner, drew up a 
 programme of dinners for every day in 
 the year, and handed it over to his 
 housekeeper ; and a lady has lately pub- 
 lished a pamphlet, entitled, " What shall 
 we have for dinner, in order to save idle 
 folks the trouble of thinking." 
 
 Now, a good cookery book, a short 
 walk round the region where the market- 
 ing is done, and a knowledge of family 
 likes and dislikes, will generally enable 
 even a novice to arrange this important 
 matter, at least so far as the ordering 
 goes, the cooking being another consider- 
 ation. Joints should always, when 
 weather permits, be purchased fresh, and 
 then hung as long as is deemed requisite 
 to fit them for eating. A knowledge of 
 the sauces and condiments appropriate to 
 every dish, is a subject well worth atten- 
 tion. The cooking of vegetables is an 
 
DIRECTION OF THE TABLE. 
 
 37 
 
 important point, and one in which we 
 may derive much useful instruction from 
 the French. Vegetables cannot be too 
 fresh ; in large towns we can form no 
 idea how little we know of the real fla- 
 vor and delicacy of green vegetables, 
 accustomed as we are to have them at 
 least a day after they are cut. 
 
 Fish should be chosen by touch and 
 look. If it feels flabby, and looks pale 
 about the gills, and dull about ^the eyes, 
 it is to be avoided; firmness of body, 
 brightness and fulness of eyes, and ruddi- 
 ness of the gills, are signs of freshness. 
 Orabs and lobsters must be selected by 
 weight, not size, and the olfactory organs 
 employed to test their sweetness. 
 
 We have already spoken of the desira- 
 bleness of dealing regularly with respect- 
 able people, but no rule is without its 
 exception ; and those who are pretty 
 good judges of articles of provision, may 
 often obtain some variety by looking 
 about them. Practice and habitual at- 
 tention and observation, and the whole- 
 some annoyance of one or two blunders, 
 will soon give experience. 
 
 We would advise that our housewife 
 should see occasionally that all the cook- 
 ing utensils are kept clean ; that there is 
 no waste or extravagance, that the ends 
 of loaves, spare bits of cut brdkd, bones 
 of meat, cold vegetables, &c., are not 
 recklessly thrown about. There are in 
 every neighborhood only too many poor 
 to be found, who will most gratefully re- 
 ceive the scraps from the richer man's 
 table ; and a little inquiry will always 
 find some family on whom such odds and 
 ends may well be bestowed. The tea- 
 leaves should be regularly put by in some 
 vessel, to be used in sweeping. 
 
 Perhaps there are few things in which 
 the respectability of a man is more 
 immediately felt, than the style of din- 
 ner to which he may accidentally bring 
 home a visitor. Every one ought to live 
 according to his circumstances, and the 
 3 
 
 meal of the tradesman ought not to emu- 
 ate the entertainments of the higher 
 classes ; but if merely two or three dish- 
 es be well served, with the proper accom- 
 paniments, the table-linen, clean, the 
 small sideboard neatly laid, and all that 
 is necessary be at hand, the expectation 
 of both the husband and friend will be 
 gratified, because- no interruption of the 
 domestic arrangements will disturb their 
 social intercourse. 
 
 Hence the direction of a table is no 
 nconsiderable branch of a ladv's concern, 
 as it involves judgment in expenditure, 
 respectability of appearance, and the com- 
 fort of her husband, as well as of those 
 who partake of their hospitality. Inat- 
 tention to it 'is always inexcusable, and 
 should be avoided for the lady's own 
 sake, as it occasions a disagreeable degree 
 of bustle and evident annoyance to her- 
 self, which is^never observable in a well- 
 regulated establishment. In doing the 
 honors of her table, the mode of carving 
 is also of importance, and will be treated 
 of in a future chapter. 
 
 The mode of covering the table differs 
 in taste. It is not the multiplicity of 
 things, but the choice, the dressing, and 
 the neat, pleasing look of the whole, 
 which give respectability to her who pre- 
 sides. The table should be furnished 
 with more than the necessary quantity 
 of plate, or plated ware, and glass, to 
 afford a certain appearance of elegance ; 
 and if accompanied by a clean cloth and 
 a neatly dressed attendant, it will show 
 that the habits of the family are those of 
 gentility. For a small party, or a tite-a- 
 tcte, a dumb waiter is a convenient con- 
 trivance, as it partly saves the attendance 
 of servants. The cruets should be look- 
 ed to and filled every day an hour before 
 dinner ; and much trouble and irregular- 
 ity are saved when there is company, if 
 servants are accustomed to prepare the 
 table and sideboard in similar order daily. 
 Too many or too few dishes are extremes 
 
38 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 not uncommon :. the former encumbering 
 the dinner with a superfluity which par- 
 takes of vulgarity, whilst the latter has 
 the appearance of poverty or penurious- 
 
 Servants should always be accustomed 
 to lay the cloth and serve dinner as neat- 
 ly when the family is alone as when com- 
 pany is expected ; they should likewise 
 be taught to bring up and place on the 
 table or sideboard everything likely to 
 be required during the meal, and not 
 have to leave the room repeatedly on 
 trifling errands. The mistress should 
 glance around to see that all is there; 
 and if she perceives omissions, mention 
 them before dinner commences. Servants 
 should also be taught to wait at table 
 without bustle or noise ; to remove plates, 
 &c., without rattling them ; to open and 
 close the doors gently; to lift covers 
 from dishes so as not to let the drops of 
 condensed steam fail on the table or those 
 seated at it. If these things are ordina- 
 rily insisted upon, the mistress of the 
 house will not. when she gives a dinner 
 party, sit on thorns, trembling lest some 
 gaucherie be committed. 
 
 Those who would give dinner parties, 
 must, generally speaking, if their menage 
 is small, hire a professed cook. A small, 
 well cooked, well chosen dinner, is far 
 preferable to a table crowded with dishes. 
 Symmetrical arrangement of the dinner 
 table, too, is a powerful adjunct. The 
 silver should be bright, the glass spark- 
 ling, the table-linen pure and snowy, the 
 
 room well lighted, of comfortable tem- 
 perature, and well ventilated. The pleas- 
 ure of eating a good dinner is greatly en- 
 hanced when comfort is studied, and 
 taste gratified. 
 
 Vegetable Dish. 
 
 The wines, if you give any, should be 
 good ; it is better to give only one or two 
 kinds, and let those be good, even though 
 they be only old-fashioned port and sher- 
 
 ry, than to aim at greater things, and set 
 before the guest those " cheap and nasty " 
 imitations of other vintages. 
 
 Choose the company and arrange them 
 as carefully as the dishes. Ill assorted 
 guests are difficult to please, while per- 
 sons who assimilate find additional zest 
 hi their social enjoyment. 
 
THE DINNER TABLE. 
 
 39 
 
 Vegetable Warmer. 
 
 The .dessert should be well selected, 
 and more choice than plentiful. By choice, 
 
 Plate Warmer. 
 
 do not let us be understood to mean ex- 
 travagant, consisting of fruits not yet in 
 
 Cake Basket 
 
 season nor having their proper flavor, or 
 of preserved fruits, or fancy confectionery. 
 All these are prejudicial to health, and 
 we cannot understand why people who 
 dine out should be tempted to eat indigest- 
 ible things ; why what ought to be a 
 means of social enjoyment, should be 
 
 made a matter of form, ostentation, and 
 discomfort. Let the dessert consist of 
 fine specimens of the fruits hi season, 
 backed in winter by a few dried fruits 
 and biscuits. 
 
 Fruit Dish. 
 
 Soyer's housewife thus describes her 
 dinner : The first thing to be looked to 
 is the lights ; these ought to be so placed 
 as not to intercept the view of any per- 
 son at the table, but at the same tune they 
 ought to be enough to show everything 
 off to advantage. I prefer removing some 
 of the lights from the table to the side- 
 board when the cloth is removed, as the 
 light after dinner ought to be more sub- 
 dued. In laying the cloth, we place it 
 over the baize and remove it after dinner, 
 as Mr. B. says he likes to see the mahog- 
 any ; for when he asks a city friend to 
 come and put his feet under his mahoga- 
 ny, it looks gather foolish if he never sees 
 it. I have, as you know, my table rath- 
 er wide, that is, six feet, and I generally 
 place a vase of flowers in the centre, as I 
 think their freshness and odor add great- 
 ly to the appearance of the table, and ad- 
 mit a flanc on each side. We prefer the 
 
 Dish Cover. 
 
 old English plan of taking the top and 
 bottom of the table, instead of me and Mr. 
 B. together at the side. 
 
THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 " The cloth being laid with its proper 
 side uppermost, I order a napkin, two 
 knives, two prongs, two tablespoons, and 
 two wineglasses to be placed for each per- 
 son, a saltcellar between every other; 
 that being a condiment which every one 
 uses, though often wrongly ; the cruet- 
 frames and other requisites are kept on 
 the sideboards. I then have the fish and 
 soup served together ; the potatoes and 
 sauce on the sideboard; I serving the 
 soup, and Mr. B. the fish ; and often a lit- 
 tle dish of fried fish, such as smelts, &c., 
 to remove the soups. This gives me an 
 opportunity of seeing that my guests are 
 properly attended to, and also leisure to 
 take wine with any gentleman who 
 challenges me. During tjie time this 
 course has been progressing, the cook 
 has had time to dish up the removes nice 
 and hot, and get all up close to the door, 
 as I like as little time as possible to in- 
 tervene in changing the dishes ; and 
 these consist generally of variously 
 dressed chickens, which I have before me, 
 as this gives an opportunity for the gen- 
 tleman on my right to display his gal- 
 lantry ; Mr. B., who is a capital carver, 
 either has a saddle or a haunch of mut- 
 ton, or a quarter of lamb before him, the 
 rest of the dishes consisting of a tongue 
 and entrees. I select those most easy to 
 carve, and also easy for the cook to pre- 
 pare. Thi is u period of dinner where 
 a great deal depends upon the attendants ; 
 they should know almost by the look 
 what this lady or that gentleman requires, 
 and what kind of vegetables to hand 
 them ; a first-rate butler should be able 
 to judge by the physiognomy to whom 
 he should offer mint sauce with the 
 lamb, and who prefers cayenne ; on their 
 attention and hot plates depends the suc- 
 cess of the substantial part of the dinner. 
 u As soon as I see that all are served, 
 and words are few in consequence of the 
 or^an which utters them being employed 
 in another way, I give a look to the two 
 
 Silver Skewer, 
 servants which they understand, and im- 
 mediately two reports are heard they 
 are from two bottles of champagne, open- 
 jd at the same time by the attendants, 
 who have each a salver with six glasses 
 on it; this takes but a short time to 
 serve, and prepares the palate for the en- 
 trees, which generally get praised; in- 
 deed, my cook would think something 
 was wrong if two of the dishes did not 
 go down empty. By having the cham- 
 pagne thus, I find it goes much further 
 than if only one bottle was opened at the 
 time, there being sufficient left in tho 
 bottles for a gentleman to challenge a 
 Lady to take champagne with him. If I 
 
 have game I remove the top and bottom 
 dishes with them, and make the sweets 
 a separate course, taking care to have 
 cold plates for the jelly, and having the 
 
EVENING PARTIES. 
 
 liquors handed round when the sweeps 
 are on the table ; one cheese I place op- 
 posite Mr. B., and macaroni opposite my- 
 self. In the dessert I generally introduce 
 some new importation, such as bananas, 
 sugar-cane, American lady apples, prickly 
 pears, &c. ; these also give a subject for 
 the gentlemen to talk about when the 
 ladies have left, as free trade, colonial 
 policy, &c. About half an hour after the 
 dessert is on the table, and when I see 
 that the conversation is becoming less 
 general, I retire to the drawing-room; 
 the servants then remove the used glass 
 and plates, and Mr. B. introduces some 
 of his choice claret or Burgundy in ice 
 coolers." 
 
 Wine Cooler. 
 
 There are so many varieties of evening 
 parties that no directions can be given 
 respecting them. As a general rule, we 
 would advise that they should be as sim- 
 ple, unostentatious, and sociable, as pos- 
 sible. Tt is the extravagance which has 
 been introduced into these matters, the 
 insane desire of outvying each other fell 
 by individuals, which is the bar to real 
 social enjoyment, and prevents us from 
 being as lively a people as the French 
 "Why cannot we meet to converse, hav< 
 music, dance, or amuse ourselves in any 
 rational way, and be content with light 
 simple refreshments, and a sincere wel 
 come ? Surely such reunions are more 
 enjoyable than crowds, grand suppers 
 superb toilettes which are scarcely seen 
 in the crush, and suffocating heat or cur 
 rents of cold air. Such assemblies upse 
 the house of the party-giver for a week 
 
 t least, weary and worry her. and are 
 riticised most severely by all her " dear 
 riends " who did not enjoy themselves, 
 ior receive the attention they expected, 
 n them all is most certainly " vanity and 
 exation of spirit ; " there is no pleasant 
 onverse, no comfort, no intellectual en- 
 oyment; weariness, lassitude, headache, 
 and expense, are the only concomitants 
 f such parties. May our "model house- 
 wife " have courage to reject them alto- 
 gether. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 FEW persons would believe what a 
 waste of money and property arises sim- 
 ply from want of care. We cannot, of 
 course, expect this carefulness from ser 
 vants, from those who are often thought- 
 less, inexperienced girls, coming from a 
 home where there was little worthy of 
 care, perhaps from a place, where there 
 was no time to bestow due attention 01 
 the various duties. Few servants rtaj 
 long enough in a situation to become a 
 tached to, and, as it were, identified with 
 
THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 it and its belongings ; they are ever striv- 
 ing to " better themselves," or, in other 
 words, obtain higher wages. It matters 
 not that they are comfortable, that they 
 like their employers ; that they are well- 
 treated, and not over-worked ; should 
 some acquaintance or relative be receiv- 
 ing higher wages than they are getting, 
 they will sacrifice all to " go and do like- 
 wise ; " and too often not in order that 
 they may contribute more to lay up a 
 fund in case of illness or misfortune, but 
 to be able to dress more smartly, or in- 
 dulge in some favorite pleasure. All this 
 is much to be regretted, as it too often 
 entails loss of health, comfort, and res- 
 pectability on the young woman. But 
 it is not this point from which we now 
 have to regard it. It is the mistress, not 
 the servant, whom we are addressing, and 
 whom we would guard from the troubles 
 which must befall her, if she, too, be care- 
 less, if she does not know and see that 
 her property is well managed and regu- 
 larly and properly attended to. 
 
 We have before said that no household 
 knowledge can be deemed superfluous, or 
 ought to come amiss to a woman, who is 
 to be at the head of a house. Surely she 
 is not the less a lady because she under- 
 stands how her house should be managed 
 and cleaned, and kept tidy ? because 
 she can teach her servants when they are 
 ignorant, put method into their proceed- 
 ings when they are careless, and quietly 
 but attentively look on and superintend 
 when they are tolerably efficient ? We 
 are all made of the same clay, though 
 differently tempered by education and 
 position; we are all subject to vicissi- 
 tudes, and cannot tell what a day, or 
 even an hour, may bring forth ; is it not, 
 then, wiser to be armed at all points, pre- 
 pared for all circumstances, equal to any 
 emergency ? 
 
 These preliminary remarks have been 
 made to preface the directions we are 
 a^out to give for the daily routine of a 
 
 servant's duties, which else might have 
 seemed out of place here, had it not been 
 our opinion that, in order to manage ser- 
 vants well, a mistress should fully under- 
 stand what their actual duties are. 
 
 Early rising is indispensable if a ser- 
 vant would do her duty ; it is not possi- 
 ble that the rooms can be dusted, the 
 fires lit, tfre breakfast got ready, and all 
 the little incidental jobs done, unless a 
 servant is down stairs at least two hours 
 before breakfast-time. We should fix six 
 o'clock as the proper hour at which work 
 should begin all the year round ; for in 
 winter even more has to be done than in 
 summer, and few things are more un- 
 pleasant than to have servants pottering 
 about their work all day, instead of get- 
 ting through the chief and dirtiest part of 
 it in the morning hours. If we make a 
 call, which gives us the most favorable 
 impression of the family, to see a tidy- 
 looking, clean servant, answer the door ; 
 or to have it opened by one who looks 
 as if she had deemed it necessary when 
 blacking the stoves to black her own per 
 son also ? 
 
 A servant should be trained to rise 
 about half-past five, throw open her bed, 
 and her window, too, when the weather 
 permits j unclose the shutters of the 
 staircase and dining-room, open the win- 
 dows of this latter to air it ; pass into 
 the kitchen, and open the shutters and 
 windows there ; light the kitchen fire ; 
 well rinse the kettle, and fill it with 
 fresh water ; see that the boiler is well 
 supplied with water, and then proceed to 
 prepare the room required for breakfast. 
 
 The rug must be folded up and removed, 
 and the proper cloth laid down in front of 
 the fire-place before the grate is touched 
 (we are supposing that it is winter) ; the 
 box containing the black-lead and brush- 
 es for a black stove, or the emery paste, 
 and leather, brushes, cloth, &c., for a 
 polished stove, and the scuttle containing 
 coal, wood, &c., must be brought up. 
 
DAILY WOEK. 
 
 Once a week, at least, the soot should be 
 gently swept down from the chimney 
 into a shovel, as it otherwise gathers all 
 round the lower ledges, and is very apt 
 to take fire. The stove must be polished 
 with a brush, or a cloth, according to its 
 nature, every morning, and thoroughly 
 cleaned at least once a week. The fire 
 may then be laid and lighted, and in doing 
 this there is some art. Where one girl 
 will light and re-light the same fire three 
 or four times over, consuming in each 
 attempt a quantity of wood, and paper, 
 another will, with less wood, kindle a 
 brisk fire at once. The mystery lies in 
 obtaining a perfect draught of air through 
 the pile of materials, and placing those in 
 juxtaposition which are most combusti- 
 ble in nature. Where this is properly 
 done there will be little smoke, and great 
 saving of fuel ; but fire-lighting requires 
 the use of one's senses and some skill, 
 commonplace a matter as we may think 
 it. 
 
 This much having been done, the 
 sweeping comes next. Now, it will not 
 be requisite thoroughly to sweep the car- 
 pet all over above >nce a week ; on the 
 other six days those parts of the room 
 chiefly used, alone require sweeping, and 
 this may be done with a dust-pan and a 
 soft hand-brush. Then comes the dust- 
 ing, and in doing this a feather brush 
 should be used for the frames and chair 
 covers, and a duster for the furniture. 
 On the cleaning day the carpet must be 
 well swept with a carpet-broom and tea- 
 leaves, the furniture well cleaned and 
 rubbed, the mantel-piece and ledges wash- 
 ed, the inside of the windows cleaned, 
 and every ornament well dusted. 
 
 Window Brush. 
 
 The street-door steps should be clean- 
 
 ed, the mats shaken, the passage swept, 
 and the brasses polished before the fami- 
 ly come down. 
 
 Feather Duster. 
 
 The breakfast is then to be prepared ; 
 the cloth laid, the breakfast service pro- 
 perly arranged, the ham or eggs, or what- 
 ever it may be, cooked, the toast. made, 
 the butter set in clear, fresh water, the 
 coffee prepared and the milk boiled. 
 
 Brushes for Cleaning. 
 
 The servant next proceeds to the bed- 
 rooms, opens the windows, lays the bed- 
 clothes back to air, and turns up the mat- 
 tresses or feather-beds in each room; then 
 empties the slops, cleanses and rinses all 
 basins, ewers, bottles, &c., wipes up all 
 slops, and brings fre^h water to supply 
 all wants in each room. The beds are 
 then to be made, and the rooms dusted. 
 On cleaning day, which should come for 
 each room once a- week, the chamber 
 utensils must all be well washed in warm 
 water, the carpets taken up and shaken, 
 the floor scrubbed, the curtains shaken, 
 and* the furniture cleaned. During the 
 summer the floor under the bed should 
 be washed over three times a- week at 
 least, to remove all dust and flue. 
 
 Before all this can be finished, the 
 breakfast will have had to be removed, 
 and this should be methodically done; 
 the china being gathered on a tray with- 
 
THE PEACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 out either fuss or rattle, the crumbs 
 brushed from the cloth, and this latter 
 doubled up in its original folds, and any 
 crumbs which may have fallen on the 
 floor swept up into a dust-pan. 
 
 The servant will now get her own 
 breakfast, and then wash up and put 
 away all the breakfast things, having first 
 set aside all the eatables, giving the scraps 
 to the cat, and taking care that nothing 
 is wasted. 
 
 The up-stairs work having been done, 
 the candlesticks and lamps should be 
 cleaned and trimmed; and then the 
 knives cleaned. Where only one servant 
 is kept, she will ere this have had to 
 think about dinner, and manage so as to 
 make the earlier preparations for that 
 important matter between whiles. A 
 mistress should always inform her domes- 
 tic charged with such duties, what she 
 intends having for dinner, when the girl 
 is removing the breakfast things, other- 
 wise she cannot possibly arrange her dai- 
 ly duties so as to attend to the cooking 
 without neglecting them ; and the mis- 
 tress should, as far as possible, endeavor 
 to arrange her dinner so as to suit the 
 household duties of the particular day 
 for wUich she is catering. For each day 
 should have its special duties ; as, Mon- 
 day, the wash for towels, dusters, servants' 
 clothes, &c., and looking up the clothes for 
 the laundress ; Tuesday, cleaning the at- 
 tics; Wednesday, the best bed-rooms; 
 Thursday, the drawing-room ; Friday, the 
 dining-room and plate ; and Saturday, the 
 hall, staircase, and kitchen, covers, &c. 
 Such regulations once laid down, the ser- 
 vant will know what duties each day re- 
 quires of her; and the mistress, being 
 aware what has to be done, will be able 
 to give her orders accordingly, for noth- 
 ing can be done without good manage- 
 ment in a small household. Both mis- 
 tress and servant must exercise fore- 
 thought, or the whole day will be one 
 scene of hurry, scurry, and discomfort. 
 
 The next thing, then, is dinner, and 
 this meal having been served and removed, 
 the servant must, if the family are in the 
 habit of retiring |to the drawing-room, 
 run up and see that all is right there ; 
 the fires burning and curtains let down, 
 if in winter, or any little customary 
 summer arrangements made. Then comes 
 washing up the dinner things, and pre- 
 paring for tea, and serving that at the 
 proper hour. 
 
 While the family are at tea is the best 
 time for the servant to go up to the bed- 
 rooms, turn down the beds, close win- 
 dows, light fires, or perform any other 
 customary or necessary duty. 
 
 The tray has to be removed, and cups 
 used at that meal, washed and put away. 
 The tea leaves should be squeezed tolera- 
 bly dry. and put away in an old dish or 
 3asin, for sweeping. All window shut- 
 ters should be closed and doors bolted at 
 dusk, both in winter and summer. If 
 upper is taken, it is usually carried up 
 on a tray covered with a cloth ; after that ' 
 comes the putting out of all fires and 
 amps, the fastening the hall door, and 
 then to rest. 
 
 Any one who takes^the trouble to re- 
 lect upon the multifarious occupations of 
 a female domestic, in a family where but 
 one is kept, cannot but perceive the abso- 
 ute necessity of a regular plan of pro- 
 ceedings, and also of the need there is 
 or consideration, patience, and kindness. 
 With all the activity and good-will in the 
 world, it is physically impossible that a 
 j;irl can be in two places at once ; and 
 yet she may be just performing soms 
 nice operation in cookery while a visitor 
 may be knocking at the door, and her 
 mistress ringing impatiently to have some- 
 hing done towards tidying herself or the 
 ipartment. How is this to be managed ? 
 t can only be settled quietly by the mis- 
 ress bestirring herself, and aiding in 
 moothing the difficulty. Where two or 
 more servants are kept, one should always 
 
ORDER AND METHOD. 
 
 be tidy and ready to answer the door, 
 and the lady of the house and her apart- 
 ments should always be mis a quatre 
 epingleS) or, in other words, in such or- 
 der that a visit from royalty itself would 
 scarcely create any bustle. Indeed, the 
 test of a well-arranged establishment is 
 the absence of all fuss. The advent of 
 relatives from the country bent on find- 
 ing a home and a bed there, the arrival 
 of unexpected guests to dinner, or any 
 such unexpected events, will, of course, 
 slightly derange the economy of a house- 
 hold, especially if it be a small one ; but 
 our housewife will not allow this to be 
 visible. Quietly and without confusion 
 she will take opportunities of giving the 
 necessary orders ; and if her servants are 
 regularly trained, they will comprehend 
 and second her at once. In every house 
 spare sheets, blankets, and bed-clothes 
 should always be kept aired, in case of 
 their being required on any sudden 
 emergency, and this can be done by lay- 
 ing them between the palliasse and mat- 
 tress of any bed in regular use. We have 
 before spoken of the advantage of always 
 having the store- closet well supplied. It 
 is a great mistake to fancy that anything 
 is saved by purchasing articles that will 
 keep, in small quantities, and certainly 
 the loss of time incurred by having con- 
 stantly to send out for trifles, is both a 
 great waste and a great inconvenience. 
 No servant can get through her work 
 properly if she has repeatedly to run out 
 on errands, or if she is called off frequent- 
 ly on frivolous pretexts. A mistress is 
 quite right in exacting from her servants 
 a regular and proper fulfilment of all 
 their duties ; but on her part she must 
 give them time and opportunity to do 
 this. If she sees they want method, she 
 must try to teach them ; and through all 
 must remember how defective their early 
 education* has too often been, how little 
 preparation they Lave received for the 
 
 path of life they have to follow, and be 
 patient with them. The great social 
 evil of the present age is, that females are 
 rarely trained with reference to their 
 probable duties. This evil pervades all 
 classes, from the lowest to the highest 
 The daughter of the millionnaire is seldom 
 taught to consider how great are the 
 social responsibilities her wealth and po- 
 sition impose upon her, to regard her- 
 self as a steward of the Almighty, a 
 medium through which His blessings may 
 flow to those poor and unfortunate ones,- 
 whose lot is cast so far apart from hers. 
 If she learns at all that " to whom much 
 is given, much will be required," she 
 probably imagines that much to be in 
 the way of style, dress, and accomplish- 
 ments ; which, to a certain extent, is not 
 far wrong, for the circulation of money 
 is a commercial advantage, and those 
 elevated in position should also be eleva- 
 ted in mental and moral attributes ; but 
 this is not all required of them. There 
 is a duty to the poor, the duty of kind- 
 ness, charity, and mercy. If all who 
 have it in their power would but attend 
 to this a little, how much good might be 
 done! and what sits so gracefully on 
 woman as such gentle deeds and holy 
 virtues ? 
 
 Then, as we have before said, the daugh- 
 ters of the working class are hardly pre- 
 pared for their position as wives, mothers, 
 and housewives ; and the children of the 
 poor have too often a still worse bringing 
 up, being reared amid misery, poverty, 
 dirt, and vice, if not in their own fami- 
 lies, at least in many of those around 
 them. 
 
 Vast as has been the general spirit of 
 progression in this age, it is marvellous 
 that these every-day matters have been, 
 practically speaking, so totally overlook- 
 ed. There is much theory, but the greater 
 part of it is speculative and Utopian. We 
 are not advocates of systems, but would 
 
THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 recommend good common sense instead ; 
 for systems can only be applied to cer- 
 tain parties and in certain ways, whereas 
 common sense will cull the best parts of 
 many systems, and adapt them to suit 
 the peculiar position or character it has 
 to deal with, and thus give to that 
 character a firmness and freedom from 
 conventional prejudices which will, when 
 strengthened by right principles, make it 
 good and useful 
 
 CHAPTER Vin. 
 
 AMONG the many duties a woman is 
 called upon to fulfil, surely none can be 
 deemed of such paramount importance as 
 those she owes to her children. Now it 
 is by no means our intention to write a 
 chapter of " advice to mothers," or enter 
 upon the subject of the education and 
 general management of little people ; all 
 we have to do with the matter here is to 
 notice it as forming a branch of our sub- 
 ject; for the nursery is an important 
 part of a house, and upon its good man- 
 agement much of the comfort, as well as 
 the health and well-being of every mem- 
 ber of the family, will depend. 
 
 Sitz Bath. 
 
 If ever a woman has need of thought 
 care, and patience, it is when she becomes 
 a mother. Who can look upon that mos 
 helpless of all created beings a new-born 
 infant and not feel pity for it, interes 
 
 n it ; and surely no mother can bestow 
 her first kiss on the little unconscious 
 nnocent without feeling some sense of 
 he responsibilities which now rest upon 
 ier f or it is not only a human being, 
 Dut an immortal soul which is committed 
 ;o her charge. 
 
 Wherever such an arrangement can be 
 made, a good-sized airy room should be 
 et apart for the nursery, and always 
 Lept scrupulously clean, well ventilated, 
 and of an even wholesome temperature. 
 Warmth is highly necessary to the health 
 of infants and young children but not 
 the warmth of a close, over-heated room, 
 for that oppresses their lungs, and makes 
 them delicate and very susceptible of 
 cold. Let the child be comfortably clad, 
 and a natural temperature of body thus 
 maintained. The health of very many 
 infants is impaired by the foolish custom 
 of exposing their little chests and arms 
 by finely-worked low bodies and very 
 short sleeves, tied up so as effectually to 
 prevent their being of any use in the way 
 of covering. Very young children have 
 so little natural heat, that they absolute- 
 ly require that the temperature of their 
 bodies should be kept up, by means of 
 clothing, to a proper standard. 
 
 The furniture of the nursery ought to 
 be very simple, and to consist of no more 
 things than are absolutely necessary. The 
 " bassinet," a wicker basket stuffed very 
 soft and lined within, two and a-half or 
 three feet long r and one and a-half wide, 
 has been used in England for very young 
 infants, and may be carried about. Cra- 
 dles and swinging cots are condemned by 
 medical men, and are now less used than 
 cribs. Children's chairs of various sizes, 
 a washstand, shower bath, a child's bath, 
 or a large earthernware basin fixed in a 
 stand of wood, various vessels of earthen- 
 ware, a nursery lamp for warming liquids 
 when there is no fire, sponges and linen 
 baskets comprise the requisite articles 
 of furniture. A wire guard for the fire, and 
 
THE NURSERY. 
 
 bars for the windows should never I 
 
 omitted. 
 
 French Folding Fender. 
 Next to warmth, in the category o 
 matters indispensable to health is clean 
 lines?. Morning and night, an infant or 
 a child under three years of age, should 
 be bathed in tepid water in winter, ani 
 cold water in summer. This operation 
 
 Can, Bath and Pail, 
 should be performed both thoroughly and 
 quickly, and then the whole body wiped 
 quite dry with a soft towel, and the limbs 
 and back gently rubbed with the hand. 
 The skin of an infant is so delicate that a 
 little dirt, a slight accumulation of pow- 
 der, any dampness, any rough handling 
 
 Infants' Bath. 
 
 or friction with a coarse cloth, will break 
 or crack it, and often produce a humor 
 which is not easily got rid of. The 
 clothes of an infant, and especially those 
 in immediate contact with its body, 
 should be soft and clean. Its bed-clothes 
 must likewise be kept well aired, and 
 free from damp and unpleasant smells. 
 Very young children should be kept, 
 
 as much as possible, in a recumbent pos- 
 ture j the less a child is allowed to sit 
 upright for the first six months the 
 stronger will be its back afterwards. 
 Too strong a light is prejudicial to youn~ 
 children; neither within nor out cf doors 
 should their eyes be exposed to anything 
 like glare; they ought likewise to be 
 shielded from high winds. Sleep is a 
 great strengthener of children, when it is 
 
 Leg Bath. 
 
 Foot Bath. 
 
 natural, and care should be taken that 
 
 hey lie comfortably as regards position, 
 
 are warm, and sheltered from all draughts 
 
 and from light, though allowed sufficient 
 
 air. In all things endeavor to establish 
 
 regular habits from the very first ; regu- 
 
 ar hours for feeding, sleeping, dressing, 
 
 and undressing, should be observed. Few 
 
 people can form an idea how much their 
 
 wn comfort and the child's well-being 
 
 will be promoted by this. Of course, 
 
 very now and then illness, or some un- 
 
 oreseen event, will interfere with this 
 
 ystem, but it must be resumed again as 
 
 oon as possible. We are aware that 
 
 many people will deem this regularity 
 
 unnecessary, but from the cradle to the 
 
 rave, we are all more or less the creatures 
 
 f habit ; and from the time a child first 
 
 egins to notice anything, its habits may 
 
 e said to commence. 
 
 When a child is fed, it should be from 
 
 proper bottle, and with light, thin food, 
 
 ot given too hot or in large quantities. 
 
 'arinaceous substances of various kinds 
 
 re best adapted for children of tender age. 
 
 or the first twelvemonth these may be 
 
 iven in a fluid, and semi-fluid state, and 
 
 afterwards in the shape of puddings either 
 
THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 baked or boiled. Many children will 
 not take meat, and they do not appear to 
 thrive less than others; nature at this 
 early age is generally the best pilot, and 
 we shall seldom err if we follow her lead. 
 
 The period of teething is always one 
 of anxiety, and requires additional care 
 and watchfulness; but plenty of fresh 
 air, good and sufficient, but not over-feed- 
 ing, and an occasional warm bath or gen- 
 tle aperient when there appears to be 
 tendency to fever, will in most cases ward 
 off serious evils. The less pfiysic a child 
 takes the better in a general way not 
 that we would advise mothers ever to 
 slight any actual premonitory symptoms 
 of illness; infantile diseases being fre- 
 quently very rapid in their course. 
 
 There is no occasion to teach children 
 to walk ; when they are strong enough, 
 they will invariably find out the proper 
 use of their feet ; let them lie on the floor, 
 and then sit, and then crawl ; and by-and- 
 by they will stand up, and then walk 
 along, holding by something ; and then, 
 when they appear capable of doing yet 
 more, encourage them to venture alone, 
 but watch carefully that they do not fall, 
 or they may be frightened, and thrown 
 back some weeks. After a child is a 
 year old, it must cease to be regarded as 
 an irrational being by those about it ; a 
 quick, lively baby is always taking no- 
 tice; its intelligence is becoming daily 
 and hourly developed ; in a word, the 
 first rudiments of education are entering 
 its little mind. This may sound extrav- 
 agant and fanciful, but what says prover- 
 bial philosophy? "With his mother's 
 milk the child drinketh education ; " and 
 let any one take three children of from a 
 year-and-a-half to two years old, one of 
 the three shall have been brought up by 
 a quiet or. ignorant nurse, one by an 
 affectionate and sensible mother, and the 
 * other among a family of children ; the 
 first, unless it be a prodigy, will be far 
 behind the second in quickness, and the 
 
 third will be as much before the second. 
 We would punish any one who mispro- 
 nounced words before babies, or taught 
 them to call things or animals by ridicu- 
 lous names ; and we would doubly pun- 
 ish any one who instilled fear into the 
 hearts of young children by threats of 
 "bogies/ 5 "black men," and such like 
 nursery monsters. Many a grown man 
 and woman has found it difficult to over- 
 come the dislike to darkness implanted 
 in them when young children by some 
 nursery bug-bears. Teach a child rather 
 to believe that angels watch over it, in- 
 duce it to be good from a fear of grieving 
 its ^parents, but never destroy or sully 
 that sweet confidence which is the most 
 blessed part of childhood. Never tell a 
 child a falsehood either ; if you promise 
 a thing, do it ; if you say a thing, act up 
 to it. Empty threats and vain promises 
 made to quiet a child, teach it afterwards, 
 in its turn, to disregard truth, and make 
 it distrust those whom, next to God, it 
 should love and honor ; whereas " exam- 
 ple is a constant monitor." 
 
 We are not advocates for " cramming " 
 children too early with crude, dry learn- 
 ing; but much may be taught without 
 effort. "Line upon line" may be in- 
 stilled by such simple stories, such plea- 
 sant gossip as children love to listen to, 
 such bright pictures as they delight to 
 look upon and have explained to them. 
 There is in the present age a royal road 
 to all the fundamental instruction needed 
 by children for the first eight or ten 
 years of their lives ; 'the dull, uninterest- 
 ing paths we had to tread are now decked 
 with so many flowers that they have be- 
 come attractive and pleasant. Even the 
 very toys and games are made means of 
 improvement; and history, arithmetic, 
 and geography may now be learned as 
 actual amusements. 
 
 The physical wants of growing children 
 are a sufficiency of good, plain food at 
 regular hours, exercise in the open air, 
 
TRAINING OF CHILDREN. 
 
 49 
 
 well-ventilated rooms, clothing warm 
 enough to promote health, and sufficient- 
 ly easy in fit not to impede growth or a 
 free use of the limbs : strong shoes or 
 boots to protect the feet from damp, and 
 a proper allowance of sleep taken at regu- 
 lar hours, no child under six years of 
 age being suffered to sit up after eight 
 o'clock, and all under twelve being safe- 
 ly in bed by nine. 
 
 Late hours, hot, crowded places, as 
 theatres, &c., and children's parties, are 
 all very destructive of health ; irregulari- 
 ties of all kinds are to be avoided, such 
 as too long walks, any great excitement 
 or over-fatigue ; for growing children 
 require all their strength and energies for 
 natural purposes; and being more ex- 
 citable than grown persons, exhaust 
 themselves the sooner. 
 
 It may be thought by some that we 
 are diverging from our subject, but " our 
 housewife," if she be now single, may 
 have younger sisters and brothers, and 
 may probably one day have children of 
 her own, when she will learn 
 
 " How infinite the wealth of love and hope, 
 Garnered in those same tiny treasure houses ! % 
 And oh 1 what bankrupts in the world we feel, 
 When death, like some remorseless creditor, 
 Seizes on all we fondly thought our own." 
 
 At all events, the care of children is 
 one of woman's most solemn responsi- 
 bilities one of the most sacred of all 
 the trusts committed to her care; for 
 has not a child an immortal soul ? 
 
 Those who live much among children 
 should carefully purify their every 
 thought, word, and action, for the duc- 
 tile and impressionable nature of a child, 
 chameleon-like, takes its hue from that of 
 the characters which surround it. " The 
 seeds of first instructions are dropped 
 into the deepest furrows;" therefore 
 we cannot omit this chapter of our 
 ; Thoughts and Maxims." 
 
 If we would cultivate a flower with 
 
 success, we plant it in a fitting soil, we 
 water it at proper times, we give to it its 
 due proportion of air and sun ; shall we 
 not equally study the constitution and 
 physical requirements of a child, in order 
 to bestow upon H the requisite nurture ? 
 'or children, like flowers, require study 
 all are not equally hardy, equally vigor- 
 ous, equally beautiful. Some resemble 
 tiot^house plants, and are frail and deli- 
 cate; others, like the hardy evergreen, 
 can bear and brave change of temperature 
 and hardship. The system which would 
 be suitable for one of "these natures would 
 be injurious to the other hence, judg- 
 ment is needful. 
 
 Again, if we would train a vine so as 
 to render it luxuriant and productive of 
 fine fruit, we bestow much pains, on the 
 arrangement of each branch ; we do not 
 neglect the smallest shoot, or wantonly 
 injure or twist the least branch; if we 
 prune, we do so but to remove that 
 which might militate against the health 
 or produce of the teee. Shall we bestow 
 less culture upon the moral education 
 of a child? Shall we not, with equal 
 care, endeavor to remove each evil pro- 
 pensity, and foster each good disposition ? 
 Is not the fruit of tenfold more import- 
 ance ? Pure and innocent is the mind 
 of a child ; let no care be spared to pre- 
 serve it so. Those who would govern 
 children by harshness greatly err; a 
 child never loves the person it fears; 
 besides, all fear is more or less slavish 
 and degrading. Rather teach them to 
 act rightly from a sense of what is right 
 and what is wrong ; found their obedi- 
 ence on affection; give tuem principles 
 of action, and teach them to reason and , 
 think, and, above all, make religion their 
 guiding star. 
 
 A child who fears God and honors hi? 
 parents is armed for the world's warfare 
 with a breast-plate, which, if not invul- 
 nerable, at least will turn aside many an 
 
50 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 arrow. Our favorite Tupper quaintly 
 but truly says: "When his reason 
 yieldeth fruit, make thy child thy friend, 
 for a filial friend is double gain, a diamond 
 set in gold. As an infant thy mandate 
 was enough ; as he grows in years, let 
 him hear thy reasons." Believe me, we 
 wantonly trifle not only with our own 
 happiness, but with that of those little 
 ones committed to our charge, when we 
 neglect to watch over the treasures we 
 ought so dearly to prize, when we trifle 
 with the hearts, minds, and souls of our 
 children, ignoring their value, our re- 
 sponsibility, and the awful reckoning 
 which will be required of us. We are 
 all too apt to treat children as dolls, to 
 dress and caress them one hour, and 
 send them out of our way the next, 
 not deeming that beneath the seeming 
 thoughtless gaiety of those little ones 
 there lurks a world of feeling and sensi- 
 bility. Kindness is as necessary to 
 them as daily food. We do not mean 
 false indulgence, but considerate kind- 
 ness. An unjust, a cold or harsh word 
 or action, especially if undeserved, pene- 
 trates the heart of a child with as keen a 
 sting as it does ours ; and who shall say 
 how many have grown up callous and 
 reckless from having their first affections 
 blunted, their feelings and wishes disre- 
 garded ? Consistent practice is worth a 
 whole world of precept, and example 
 will influence while words or coercion 
 are fruitless. 
 
 Once more, then, we would beg " our 
 housewife " to study what are her duties 
 towards children. We would entreat 
 mothers so to train their daughters that 
 they may never have cause to blush and 
 tremble for their grandchildren. It is 
 no figure of speech to say that " the child 
 is father to the man ; " study diligently, 
 therefore, how best 
 
 " to rear the tender thought, 
 To tench the young idea how to eboot ; 
 ' To pour fresh instruction o'er the mind, 
 
 To breathe the enlivening spirit, and to fix 
 The generous purpose in the glorying breast." 
 
 Nor let children, who should be oui 
 blessings, become our torments 
 
 " "While young our folly, and when old our fear." 
 
 Lastly, but not of the least importance 
 in the good training of children it should 
 be rigidly observed by parents, never to 
 show any difference of opinion in their 
 treatment before them. Nothing can be 
 more pernicious to their moral culture, 
 engendering in them habits of disobedi- 
 ence, for they cannot obey one parent 
 without disobeying the other. We ear- 
 nestly recommend attention to this ob- 
 servance ; for, besides the evilof disobedi- 
 ence that is almost sure to follow a dif- 
 ference in opinion from those in authority 
 over the child, the latter is sometimes 
 prone to disregard the instructions and 
 admonitions of both, and set up princi- 
 ples of his own, more in accordance with 
 his inclinations, however erroneous they 
 may be. 
 
 A chapter is devoted to cookery for 
 children. 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 ANOTHER duty, of great importance, 
 devolves on woman ; namely the care of 
 the sick. From the highest to the low- 
 est none are, properly speaking, exempt 
 from this charge. 'Tis true that those 
 who are rich can hire experienced nurses, 
 but still the responsibility, the anxiety, 
 rests with the mistress, for she cannot 
 hire affection, thoughtful care, and all 
 those little attentions which make the 
 sole comfort of an invalid ; she can 
 merely secure a species of human ma- 
 chine which mechanically performs its 
 duties, and between whiles eats, drinks, 
 sleeps, and comforts itself. There are 
 many excellent and kind-hearted profes- 
 
CARE OF THE SICK. 
 
 51 
 
 eional nurses, but there are also more 
 who" become, as it were, petrified by the 
 habitual contemplation of suffering, and 
 who merely regard the patient with an 
 eye to business. 
 
 In a sick room the kindness and atten- 
 tion of the nurse often work far greater 
 marvels than the skill of the doctor, for she 
 is there every hour, she sees every change, 
 and can minister to many little wants. 
 Those trifles which make up the events 
 of an invalid, those minor details, so un- 
 important to a person in health, those 
 whims, and desires, and nervous suscep- 
 tibilities which appear almost childish to 
 lookers-on, will be studied by a good, 
 conscientious nurse, and overlooked or 
 disregarded by one who either does not 
 feel interested in the patient, or has not 
 sufficient sympathy to induce her to study 
 these matters. In the former case, the 
 invalid will be soothed and cheered ; in 
 the latter, irritated and depressed. Sure- 
 ly it is not difficult to conceive which 
 influence must act most beneficially upon 
 the system. 
 
 Gentleness, watchfulness, firmness, 
 judgment, some delicacy of feeling and 
 savoir faire, and a truly Christian spirit, 
 are the distinguishing characteristics 
 which will best adapt a woman for fulfil- 
 ling this phase of her duties. There are 
 many who, from intense solicitude or 
 romantic devotion, will give way to those 
 impulses of feeling which lead them to 
 devote themselves so entirely to the nurs- 
 ing of some beloved relative, that all 
 other duties, and even self, are wholly 
 forgotten. What is the consequence of 
 this error of judgment? Their own 
 health succumbs, and they become not 
 only useless, but render themselves 
 sources of trouble and anxiety. How 
 much better to have husbanded their 
 strength so as to be able to remain use- 
 ful! That despised article, common 
 sense, would teach us all so much if we 
 would but stop to listen ; if we would not 
 
 mount, each one, our own peculiar hobby, 
 and gallop off at a tremendous rate, heed- 
 less of all sign-posts, and often regardless 
 of even hedges and ditches. Affection ! 
 feeling ! sentiment ! nerves ! how much 
 has been done and left undone in these 
 names ! while poor dear common sense 
 has been decried as a most unfeeling per- 
 son, and rudely ejected when she strove 
 to make herself heard. 
 
 Yet in few places is common sense a 
 more valuable assistant than in the sick 
 room ; aided by self-command and good 
 feeling, she will transform the most un- 
 initiated person into an excellent and effi- 
 cient nurse. Let us hear a few of her 
 fundamental principles. 
 
 Speak in a low but perfectly distinct 
 voice, both to the invalid and to any one 
 who enters the room, in order that, al- 
 though no unnecessary sound may be 
 heard, the patient's ear may not be fa- 
 tigued by striving to catch the words, 
 or excited by mutterings or whispers ad- 
 dressed to some one else. 
 
 Let your countenance be calm and 
 cheerful, your manners soothing and 
 hopeful, and your words such as may 
 cheer or comfort the mind. 
 
 Avoid all fuss, all hasty movements, 
 all noises that may startle or disturb ; let 
 even your dress and shoes be chosen with 
 reference to quiet. 
 
 Keep everything in its place, so that in 
 an instant you can put your hand on it 
 when required; have hot water, clean 
 cups, spoons, glasses, and well-aired body 
 and bed linen always handy ; let the air 
 of the room be changed frequently ; avoid 
 all bad smells, or remove them as soon as 
 possible ; pay strict attention to the tem- 
 perature of the chamber, and keep it as 
 even as may be ; and regulate the light 
 with equal care. 
 
 The furniture of a sick room should be 
 adapted to the wants of the invalid. A 
 reciining-chair will be found convenient : 
 and a rocking-chair for exercise, with a 
 
52 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPEK. 
 
 movable one for those who cannot walk. 
 The bedstead should be contrived to af- 
 ford ease by change of position. Dr. 
 Arnott's hydrostatic bed has been men- 
 tioned as particularly useful for invalids. 
 
 All food offered to invalids should be 
 daintily prepared, and presented in the 
 most careful manner. How often, when 
 one has been longing for food, has he 
 turned from it with disgust, because he 
 has seen the nurse cool it with her breath, 
 or taste it, and then drt>p the spoon back 
 into it, and present it. Nor is it well to 
 inquire of invalids what shall be got for 
 them. If they express a wish foi some 
 particular thing, well and good, let it be 
 got for them, if reasonable ; but a trifling 
 delicacy unexpectedly brought will often 
 tempt the appetite ; besides, a sick per- 
 son, or even a convalescent, is often too 
 languid to be at the trouble of thinking 
 about eating, and would sooner go with- 
 out ; or if he or she chooses something, 
 it may be the very thing which would be 
 improper or prejudicial, and then comes 
 "disappointment, and a species of disgust 
 for all else, for in illness the appetite is 
 ever capricious. 
 
 Nowhere is cleanliness of such para- 
 mount importance as in the sick room. 
 Do not let us be misunderstood here. 
 We do not mean that an immensity of 
 sweeping, scouring, and dusting is to be 
 done, but simply that the chamber must 
 be kept clean and ventilated, that the bed 
 and body linen must be changed often 
 enough to refresh without fatiguing the 
 patient, and that the air must be purified 
 by means of vinegar, or other disinfect- 
 ants. 
 
 As there are so many kinds of illness, 
 no general rules can be 'laid down, and 
 our friend, common sense, must be allow- 
 ed to be the special adviser. In one case 
 body and mind may be paralyzed by 
 weakness or languor ; in another the body 
 may be agonized, and yet the mind clear 
 
 and active; while in a third the body 
 may be sane, the mind insane. IRnce 
 no one who is a mere machine, guided by 
 certain rules, can be a good and efficient 
 nurse j no one who does not study how 
 to minister to the mind as well as the 
 body, who will not endeavor, to a certain 
 extent, to identify herself with the tastes, 
 feelings, and even prejudices of the pa- 
 tient, can be really useful. 
 
 What we have hitherto said applies 
 chiefly to adult patients ; to nurse a sick 
 child may seem a far easier task, but is 
 not so. What gentleness, firmness, play- 
 fulness, and, above all, what patience is 
 needed in the sick chamber of a child ! 
 for in time of illness, a child is doubly a 
 child, almost a baby again. 
 
 Every housekeeper should always have 
 a store of old linen, cambric, and calico 
 rags, and old pieces of flannel ; these are 
 easily obtained by saving worn-out linen, 
 flannel, and other garments, or at least 
 the useful portions of them, and treasur- 
 ing old silk and cambric handkerchiefs. 
 Such things are invaluable in time of 
 sickness for poultices, fomentations, 
 leeches, &c. Those who have them not 
 will do well to visit a pawnshop, or the 
 emporium of one of those purchasers of 
 wardrobes ; and having there found one 
 or two articles of no value but to be torn 
 up, to buy these, bring^them home, have 
 them thoroughly washed, and then put 
 them away for use. 
 
 It may seem to some that we dwell too 
 long on a sad and painful subject, but it 
 is good for us at times to be serious, to 
 turn from the contemplation of life's 
 pleasures and enjoyments, and look upon 
 its darker pages ; for it has been beauti- 
 fully said by an eminent writer, that 
 " suffering is not a slender, dark thread, 
 winding every now and then through a 
 warp of dazzling brightness, but it is in- 
 terwoven with the whole texture. It is 
 not incidental, but designed for us; it 
 
CARE OF THE SICK. 
 
 53 
 
 enters into God's'-fmrposes ; it has a great 
 work to do, and we know nothing of life 
 until we comprehend its purposes." 
 Again : " Suffering nourishes the tender- 
 est sympathies of our nature ; it raises 
 us to energy and a consciousness of our 
 own powers, and at the same time in- 
 fuses the meekest dependence on God; 
 it stimulates us to cherish and prize the 
 blessings of this world, and at the same 
 time weans us from and lifts us above 
 mere earthly things." 
 
 There is no home into which sickness 
 may not come at any hour ; and as it is 
 to woman that the office of nurse is in- 
 variably delegated, surely every woman 
 ought to learn betimes all that will best 
 qualify her to become the ministering 
 angel, whose presence shall bless thejong 
 hours of pain and confinement. False 
 delicacy, foolish weakness, and all that 
 can militate against usefulness, should be 
 early overcome. We have seen a daugh- 
 ter scream, and weep, and wring her 
 hands, while her mother lay fainting be- 
 fore her ; we have seen a mother shriek 
 and fall on her knees, and utter words of 
 agony, when some accident happened to 
 her child. But how did all this unavail- 
 ing grief benefit the sufferers? How 
 much better she does, who, controlling 
 her feelings, thinks only how she can ad- 
 minister relief. Some might deem her 
 callous, but others know what real feel- 
 ing is concealed behind the pale face 
 white compressed lips, and quivering eye- 
 lids ; to utter it might weaken her, anc 
 incapacitate her from rendering tha 
 prompt assistance which may even be 
 requisite to preserve life. It is our pri 
 vate opinion, that every woman shoulc 
 have a general knowledge of the anatorm 
 of the human frame, and of the function 
 of its various organs; also, that she 
 should be acquainted with chemistry t 
 a sufficient extent to prevent her from 
 committing absurd errors in cookery, o 
 in the making of perfumes, cosmetics 
 4 
 
 and pomades, or pickles and confection- 
 iry ; and to this we would add, that she 
 will find it useful to understand the qual- 
 ties and action of the drugs and medica- 
 ments in most common use, in order that 
 he may not administer them to herself, 
 >r any members of her family " promiscu- 
 >usly," but with some slight notion of 
 what she is about. We do not, however, 
 mean to advise " our housewife " to prac- 
 ise quackery on herself or those belong- 
 ng to her ; for many a constitution has 
 )een ruined by injudicious physicking; 
 )ut there are cases in which some house- 
 lold remedy, promptly applied, will often 
 prevent a long illness, and then every 
 one should know how to act. 
 
 Women should understand the making 
 and applying of poultices, leeches, fomen- 
 tations, warm baths, and similar things ; 
 but how few do ! They may fancy them- 
 selves clever in such matters. We have 
 known a young person who rushed head- 
 long on in everything of the kind she un- 
 dertook ; made a poultice in the kitchen, 
 and wondered that it was cold as ice by 
 the time she had carried it up to the 
 second floor ; applied fomentations, and 
 damped the bed and night-clothes, so that 
 a chill, instead of heat, was produced. 
 
 In another portion of our book is given 
 a large list of articles of food for invalids, 
 with directions for cooking ; and also a 
 chapter containing remarks on diseases 
 common in families. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 THE STORE-ROOM AND MARKETING. 
 
 IT must be borne in mind that an in- 
 ventory of furniture, linen, and china 
 should be kept, and the things examined 
 by it twice a year, or oftener if there be 
 a change of servants ; the articles used 
 by servants should be intrusted to their 
 
THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 care, with a list, as is done with plate 
 In articles not in common use, such as 
 spare bedding, tickets of parchment, num- 
 bered and specifying to what they belong 
 should be sewed on each; and minor 
 artielco in ddly use, such as household 
 cloths and kitchen requisites, should be 
 occasionally looked to. The best means 
 to preserve blankets from moths is to 
 fold and lay them under the feather-beds 
 that are in use, and shake them occasion- 
 ally ; when soiled, they should be wash- 
 ed, not scoured. 
 
 A proper quantity of household arti- 
 cles should always be allowed for daily 
 use. Each should also be kept in its proper 
 place, and applied io its proper use. Let 
 all repairs be done as soon as wanted, 
 remembering the old ada^e of " a stitch 
 in time ; " and never if possible, defer any 
 necessary household duty a moment 
 beyond the time when it ought to be at- 
 tended to. 
 
 Refrigerator. 
 
 A Store-room is essential for the cus- 
 t3(ly of articles in constant use, as well 
 as for others which are only occasionally 
 
 called for. These should be at hand 
 when wanted, each in separate drawers, 
 or on shelves and pegs, all under the lock 
 and key of the mistress, and never given 
 out to the servants but under her inspec- 
 tion. 
 
 Pickles and preserves, prepared and 
 purchased sauces, and all sorts of groce- 
 ries, should be there stored ; the spices 
 pounded and corked up in small bottles, 
 sugar broken, and everything in readiness 
 for use. Lemon-peel, thyme, parsley, 
 and all sorts cf sweet herbs, should be 
 dried and grated fcr use in seasons of 
 plenty; the tcps of tongues saved, and 
 dried for grating into omelets, &c. ; and 
 care taken that nothing be wasted that 
 can be turned to good account. 
 
 Bread is so heavy an article of expense 
 that all waste should be guarded against, 
 and having it cut in the room will tend 
 much to prevent it ; but, for company, * 
 small rolls, placed in or on the napkin of 
 each guest, are the most convenient, as 
 well as the most elegant. Bread should 
 kept in earthern pans with covers. 
 Sugar being also an article of consider- 
 able expense in all families, the purchase 
 demands particular attention. The cheap- 
 est does not go so far as that better re- 
 ined, and there is a difference even in 
 he degree of sweetness. The close, 
 icavy, and shining white, or loaf-sugar, 
 hould be chosen. The best sort of brown 
 las a bright, crystalline appearance, as if 
 mixed with salt, and if feeling coarse when 
 rubbed between the fingers, is better than 
 when more powdery. East India sugars 
 ire finer for the price, but not so strong; 
 onsequently, unfit for wines and sweet- 
 meats, they do well for common purposes. 
 To pound white sugar, rolling it with a 
 )ottle, and sifting, wastes it less than a 
 mortar. 
 
 Both soap and tallow candles are im- 
 
 roved by keeping, and are best when 
 
 made in cool weather ; at which time it 
 
 will be prudent to lay in a stock of both. 
 
 They are, indeed, better for being kept 
 
THE STORE-ROOM. 
 
 55 
 
 eight or ten months, nor will they spoil 
 for two years if kept in a cool place ; and 
 there are few articles that better deserve 
 care in buying, and allowing a regulated 
 quantity of, according to the size of the 
 family. 
 
 Wax, spermaceti, and Composite can- 
 dles ought to be always purchased in 
 quantities of not less than a dozen pounds, 
 on which an allowance is usually made. 
 
 Soap should be cut in pieces that will 
 make a long square, when first brought 
 in ; and kept out of the air two or three 
 weeks ; for, if it dries quickly, it will 
 crack, and, when wet, break. Put it on 
 a shelf, leaving a space between each 
 piece, and let it grow hard gradually ; 
 thus it will save a full third in the con- 
 sumption ; but, for coarse washing, soft 
 soap will go further than the hard. 
 
 Soda, by softening the water, saves a 
 great deal of soap. It shoul^ be melted 
 in a large ewer of water, some of which 
 pour into the tubs and boiler ; and when 
 the latter becomes weak add more. 
 
 Self-Heating Flat Iron. 
 
 Many good laundresses advise soaping 
 linen in warm water the night previous 
 to washing, as facilitating the operation 
 with less friction. This should always 
 be done with fine muslins and laces. 
 
 The ^rice of starch depends upon that 
 of flour ; the best will keep good in a dry 
 warm room for some years. 
 
 Everything should be kept in the place 
 best suited to it, as much waste may 
 thereby be avoided. 
 
 Great care should be taken of jelly- 
 bags, tapes for collared things, &c., which, 
 if not perfectly scalded and kept dry, give 
 an unpleasant flavor when next used. 
 
 Vegetables will keep best on a stone 
 floor, if the air be excluded ; meat in a 
 cold dry place, where the air is freely 
 admitted ; sugar and sweetmeats require 
 a dry place, so does salt ; candles, cold, 
 but not damp ; dried meats, hams, bacon, 
 and tongues, the same. All sorts of seed 
 for puddings, such as rice, &c., should be 
 covered close to preserve them from in- 
 sects ; but if kept long that will not be 
 sufficient, unless they be occasionally 
 sifted. Apples and pears should be laid 
 upon very clean and dry straw, to pre- 
 vent a musty taste ; nor should they be 
 exposed to either light or air. The 
 floor of a dark garret is a good place in 
 which to deposit them ; or, which is still 
 better, shelves made by strips of wood 
 about two inches wide, placed an inch 
 and a half apart, and the apples laid be- 
 tween them. They should be ranged 
 singly in rows, without touching each 
 other, and should be often inspected, both 
 to wipe them, if damp, and to reject those 
 which may appear to be getting rotten ; 
 but the larger sort of pears should be tied 
 up by the stalk. Apples may also be 
 preserved in excellent condition for a long 
 period by being packed in large barrels 
 with dry sand, but require to be used 
 immediately when they are taken out. 
 
 Coarse nets suspended in the store- 
 room are very useful in preserving the 
 finer kinds of fruit, lemons, &c., which 
 are spoiled if allowed to touch. When 
 lemons and oranges are cheap, a proper 
 quantity should be bought and prepared, 
 both for preserving the juice, and keeping 
 the peel for sweetmeats and grating; 
 especially by those who live in the coun- 
 try, where they cannot always be had. 
 
56 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 They are perpetually wanted in cook- 
 ery. 
 
 The best way of scalding fruits, or 
 boiling vinegar, is in a stone jar, on a hot 
 iron hearth, or by putting the vessel into 
 a saucepan of boiling water, called a wa- 
 ter-bath, after its having been closely 
 corked, but not quite filled, as the heat 
 may occasion the fruits to swell ; but if 
 they diminish after this is done, the 
 vessel must then be filled. 
 
 Onions, shallots, and garlic should be 
 hung up for winter use in ropes from the 
 ceiling; as should dried parsley, basil, 
 savory, and knotted-marjoram, or Lon- 
 don-thyme, and tarragon, to be used 
 when herbs are ordered, but with discre- 
 tion, as they are very pungent. 
 
 Hams should be well covered in paper 
 bags, and put in a chest or barrel, with 
 layers of charcoal or ashes between. 
 When you take one out to cut for use, 
 put it away in a dark place, well covered. 
 
 Herbs should be kept from the air. 
 Herb tea, to do any good, should be made 
 very strong. Herbs must be gathered 
 while in blossom. Those who have a 
 little ground will do well to raise the 
 most useful herbs; apothecaries make 
 large profits on them. 
 
 Suet and lard keep better in tin than 
 earthen-ware. Suet keeps good a year, 
 if chopped, packed in a stone jar, and 
 covered, with molasses. Or, pick suet 
 free from veins and skin, melt it in water 
 before a moderate fire, let it cool till it 
 forms a hard cake, then wipe it dry and 
 put it in clean paper, in linen bags. 
 
 MAEKETING. 
 
 Although respectable butchers may, 
 in most cases, be relied upon for the good- 
 ness of the meat which they sell to regu- 
 lar customers, yet many persons (both 
 ladies and gentlemen) go to market and 
 choose for themselves, when, if not com- 
 petent judges, the inferior sorts generally 
 fall to their lot. In country towns, also, 
 
 there are frequently but one or two mar- 
 ket-days in the week; and the meat 
 being brought from a distance, it is an 
 essential point of good housekeeping to 
 be so well acquainted with the quality as 
 not to be easily imposed upon. 
 
 BEEF. Well-fed beef may be known 
 by the texture and color ; the lean will 
 exhibit an open grain of deep coral-red, 
 and the fat will appear of a healthy, oily 
 smoothness, rather inclining to white 
 than yellow. The suet firm and white. 
 Yellow fat is a test of meat of an inferior 
 quality. Heifer beefMs but little inferior 
 to ox beef; the lean is of a closer grain, the 
 red paler, and the fat whiter. Cow beef may 
 be detected by the same signs, save that 
 the older the beast the texture of the 
 meat will appear closer, and the flesh 
 coarser to the sight, as well as harder to 
 the touch. The grain of bull beef is 
 coarser and closer still, the fat hard and 
 skinny, the lean of a deep red, and it has 
 a stronger scent. Ox beef is the richest 
 and largest; but in small families, and 
 to some tastes, heifer beef is preferred, 
 if finely fed. In old meat, a streak of 
 horn runs between the fat and lean of 
 the sirloin and ribs ; the harder this is, 
 the older, and the flesh is not finely fla- 
 vored; that is to say, the horn has 
 become so firm as to appear like bone; 
 but oxen are always the better if kept 
 until five or*ix years old. 
 
 Ox TONGUE. To choose a neat's 
 tongue, it should be of moderate size, 
 plump, firm, and smooth to the touch ; 
 for if the skin appears rough and shriv- 
 elled, it will be found hard and flavor- 
 less. 
 
 VEAL. When you observe the kidney 
 well surrounded with fat, you may be 
 sure the meat is of good quality. The 
 whitest is not the best ..veal; but the 
 flesh of the bull-calf is of a brighter color 
 than that of the cow-calf. The fillet of 
 the latter is generally preferred on ac- 
 count of the udder. There is a vein in 
 
MARKETING. 
 
 57 
 
 the shoulder very perceptible ; and its 
 color indicates the freshness of the meat ; 
 if a bright red or blue, it is recently kill- 
 ed ; if any green or yellow spots are visi- 
 ble, it is stale. The suet will be flabby, 
 and the kidney will smell. The other 
 parts should be dry and white ; if clam- 
 my or spotted, the meat is stale and bad. 
 If more than eight or ten weeks old, the 
 flesh becomes coarse. You will, of course, 
 get it somewhat cheaper, and it may, to 
 some palates, be found equally good in 
 flavor, but not so delicate in either the 
 color or the texture of the flesh. 
 
 MUTTON. The best is of a fine grain, 
 a bright color, the fat firm and white. 
 It is better for being full-grown. The 
 ram mutton may be known by the red- 
 ness of the flesh, and the sponginess of 
 the fat. The flesh of the ewe is paler, 
 and the texture finer, but neither the 
 meat nor gravy so well flavored, though 
 a " maiden ewe," when it can be got, is 
 considered particularly fine. If you wish 
 to have a good haunch, choose one of 
 small size and moderately fat, looking at 
 the same time to- the closeness of the 
 grain and the whiteness of the fat ; but 
 more particularly see that the flesh is 
 dark-colored, that being a proof of age, 
 and the older the better. In boiled mut- 
 ton this is not of so much importance as 
 in roasted. 
 
 LAMB should be eaten very fresh. In 
 the fore-quarter, the vein in the neck 
 being any other color than blue betrays 
 it to be stale. In the hind-quarter, try 
 the kidney with your nose ; the faintness 
 of its smell will prove it to be stale. It 
 loses much of its nicety of flavor after it 
 reaches four months old. It ought, there- 
 fore, to be small and white in appear- 
 ance, and well covered with fat; the 
 younger the more delicate. 
 
 PORK. The rind should be thin, the 
 fat very firm, and the lean white; the 
 principal point to be observed is the firm- 
 
 ness of the fat. If the rind is tough, 
 thick, and cannot easily be impressed by 
 the finger, it is old. Pigs that are short 
 in the legs and bodies, and have thick 
 necks, and not long heads and ears, 
 are always to be preferred. When fresh| 
 the flesh will be smooth and dry; if 
 clammy, it is tainted. What is called 
 "measly pork" is very unwholesome, 
 and may be known by the fat being full 
 of kernels. Pork fed at still-houses does 
 not answer for curing in any way, the 
 fat being spongy. Dairy pork is the 
 best. 
 
 Porkers from three to four months 
 old are the most delicate, and six months 
 is the latest age at which they should be 
 killed as such. 
 
 BACON. If the rind be thin, the fat 
 firm and of a reddish tinge, the lean ten- 
 der, of a good color, and adhering to the 
 bone, you may conclude it is good and 
 not old. If there are yellow streaks in 
 it, it is rusty. 
 
 For hams, stick a sharp knife under 
 the bone, and also up to the knuckle. If 
 it comes out with a pleasant smell, the 
 ham is good ; but do not buy it if the 
 knife has a bad scent. Hams short in 
 the hock are best; nor should long-legged 
 pigs be chosen for any purpose. 
 
 BRAWN. The horny part of the young 
 brawn will feel moderately tender, and 
 the flavor will be better than the old, the 
 rind of which will be hard. 
 
 VENISON. The fat should be clear, 
 bright, and thick ; and if the cleft of the 
 haunch be smooth and close, it is younr^ ; 
 but if the cleft is close and tough, it is 
 old. To judge of its sweetness, run a very 
 sharp narrow knife into the shoulder or 
 haunch, and you will know by the scent. 
 Few people like it when it has much of 
 the haut-gout ; but it bears keeping bet- 
 ter than any sort of meat, and if eaten 
 fresh killed it is not so good as mutton. 
 Observe the neck of a fore-quarter ; if the 
 
58 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 vein be bluish, it is fresh ; if it have a 
 green or yellow cast, it is stale. In the 
 hind-quarter, if there is a faint smell un- 
 der the kidney, and the knuckle is limp, 
 the meat is stale. If the eyes be sunk, 
 the head is not fresh. When you can 
 learn where it has been reared, choose 
 forest- venison, as that is the best; for 
 some of the dealers stall-feed the cleer, 
 and fatten them with oil-cake. It should 
 be full five years old. 
 
 In every sort of provisions the best 
 of the kind goes furthest, cuts up to 
 greatest advantage, and affords most 
 nourishment. Round of beef, fillet of veal, 
 and leg of mutton, are joints that bear a 
 higher price ; but as they have more solid 
 meat, they deserve the preference. It is 
 worth notice, however, that those joints 
 which are inferior may be dressed as pala- 
 tably, and, being cheaper, they ought to 
 be bought hi turn. 
 
 In loins of meat, the long pipe that 
 runs by the bone should be taken out, as 
 it is apt to taint ; as also the kernels of 
 beef. Rumps and aitchbones of beef are 
 often bruised by the blows the drovers 
 give the beasts, and the part that has 
 been struck always taints ; therefore, do 
 not purchase these joints if bruised. 
 
 All meat should be carefully examined, 
 and wiped with a dry cloth as soon as it 
 comes in ; and if flies have blown upon 
 it, the part must be cut off. This should 
 be daily observed until it is dressed, as it 
 not only tends to preserve the meat long 
 in peifection, but prevents that musty 
 flavor too often perceived in the outer 
 slice when brought to table. 
 
 In the country, where meat is often 
 carried a great distance, it should be well 
 covered up with a cloth, over which fresh 
 cabbag-e-leaves would keep it cool. These 
 cautions are more needful, as in some 
 families great loss is sustained by the 
 spoiling of meat. The fly may in some 
 measure be prevented by dusting upon 
 the parts most likely to be attacked, pep- 
 
 per and ginger mixed, after wiping 
 which should never be omitted; but a 
 more easy and effectual* mode is to ex- 
 clude the fly by using a wire meat-safe, 
 or to cover the joints with a long loose 
 gauze or thin cloth, and hang them up 
 from the ceiling of an airy chamber. 
 
 In summer meat should be wiped every 
 day, or sprinkled with popper to keep off 
 the flies ; and should it wear any appear- 
 ance of becoming tainted, it should be 
 brushed over with pyroligneous acid ; or 
 even if already slightly infected, either 
 the acid or roughly-pounded charcoal, if 
 well rubbed into the meat, will restore 
 it. The meat should also be brought in 
 early in the morning, as, if mr.ch ex- 
 posed to the sun, the heat will render it 
 flabby. In frosty weather, meat is some- 
 times in a congealed state, and should be 
 thawed by soaking it in cold water before 
 putting it to the fire. 
 
 Meats become more tender, and conse- 
 quently more digestible, as well as better 
 flavored, by hanging ; but veal and lamb 
 will not bear it so long as the flesh of 
 older animals. In summer, two days is 
 long enough for lamb and veal, and from 
 three to four for beef and mutton ; in 
 cold weather, these latter may be kept 
 for more than double that time without 
 risk of being tainted. 
 
 POULTET AND GAME. 
 
 Turkey. The cock bird when young 
 has a smooth black leg with a short spur. 
 The eyes bright and full, and moist sup- 
 ple feet when fresh ; the absence of these 
 signs denotes age and staleness ; the hen 
 may be judged by the same rules. 
 
 Fowls like a turkey ; the young cock 
 has a smooth leg and a short spur ; when 
 fresh the vent is close and dark. Hens 
 when young have smooth legs and combs 5 
 when old these will be rough. 
 
 Geese. In young geese the feet and 
 bills will be yellow and free from hair 
 
TO CHOOSE FISH. 
 
 50 
 
 When fresh the feet are pliable; they 
 are stiff when stale. 
 
 Ducks may be selected by the same 
 rule. 
 
 Pigeons, when fresh, have supple feet, 
 and the vent will be firm ; if it be dis- 
 colored and supple they are stale. 
 
 Plovers, when fat, have hard vents; 
 but, like almost all other birds, may be 
 chosen by the -same rules. 
 
 Other game birds may be chosen by 
 the above rules. 
 
 TO CHOOSE FISH. 
 
 Pish. In every sort of fish, stiffness, 
 redness of the gills, and brightness of the 
 eyes, are invariable signs of freshness ; 
 thickness of the flesh generally marks 
 the good condition of all fifch, and its 
 firmness is an essential requisite. Fish, 
 when quite fresh, curl round, but are par- 
 ticularly elastic, rising immediately upon 
 the pressure of the fingers; and their 
 staleness or freshness may be measured 
 by the possibility of making an impres- 
 sion. If stale, the impression will re- 
 main ; but, if fresh, it will rise again on 
 removal of the pressure. 
 
 Salmon. The fish stiff, the scales very 
 bright, the belly thick, the gills a bril- 
 liant color, and the flesh when cut, a 
 beautiful red, will prove it to be a fine 
 fresh fish.. It cannot be too fresh. 
 
 Cod. The best fish are thick at the 
 neck, very red gills, firm white flesh 
 bright and blood-shot eyes, and smal 
 head. The liver should be of an opaqu< 
 white ; the whiter, the better the fish 
 when out oi season the liver becomes 
 red. It is improved by being crimped 
 as this increases its firmness, and then 
 it requires keeping one day before using 
 Whitings. A clear color and firm 
 bodies, indicate a superior quality. 
 
 Mackerel Bright eyes, thick bodies 
 stripes black on the back, the prismati 
 colors very predominant on the belly 
 
 lenote freshness and goodness. The 
 male is the best ; his stripes are straight ; 
 hose of the female, wavy. 
 
 Pike. Carp, I'erclt, Smelts, Gudgeons, 
 re", may be judged by the above rules. 
 
 Eels. The bright silver-hued belly 
 .nd thickness of back, are the guides in 
 heir selection. 
 
 Lobsters. To be had in perfection 
 ihould be boiled at horn*; choose the 
 leaviest. When they are boiled the tail 
 should have a good spring ; the cock lob- 
 ster has a narrow tail in which the two 
 uppermost fins are stiff and hard ; the 
 len has a broad tail, and these fins are 
 softer. The male has the best flavor; 
 ;he flesh is firmer ; and the color when 
 soiled is brighter than the hen. 
 
 Oysters. There are many sorts of 
 oysters ; when the oyster is alive the 
 shell will close upon the knife ; the com- 
 mon oyster should be used for sauce, and 
 the natives, of which there are several 
 kinds, should be sent to table. 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 UNDER the head of Domestic Manipu- 
 lation, we propose giving a series of arti- 
 cles on the numerous and essential 
 manual operations that are constantly 
 required in every family, and which, 
 whether they are well or ill done, must 
 of necessity be performed. The term 
 Domestic Manipulation, employed in the 
 widest sense, would include all the man- 
 ual operations required in a house, but 
 we propose to limit it to such as partake 
 in a slight degree of a scientISc charac- 
 ter ; thus the operations of Filtering, De- 
 canting, Weighing. Measuring, Bottling, 
 Corking, Unstoppering. Pounding, Heat- 
 ing, Boiling, Distilling. Cementing, &c 
 &c. will be included; whilst Dusting. 
 Washing, and Scrubbing, though no less 
 
60 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 in strictness, manipulations, will be 
 passed over in silence. 
 
 We propose treating of the manipula- 
 tions connected with BOTTLES AND DE- 
 CANTERS, &c., under the following heads : 
 Cleaning, Drying, Corking. Tying down, 
 Stoppering, and Unstoppering. 
 
 Cleaning. Perhaps no more effectual 
 and easy mode of cleaning wine and beer 
 bottles can be recommended than that 
 commonly adopted, viz., the use of small 
 shot and water; in the case of old port 
 wine bottles, however, it often occurs 
 that the mechanical action of the shot 
 does not remove the hardened crust from 
 the interior ; a small quantity of pearl- 
 ash or soda, or still better, washing 
 liquids, added to the water, will soften 
 the crust sufficiently to permit its easy 
 removal. There is, however, one objec- 
 tion to the use of shot for the purpose 
 of cleaning bottles ; unless due care be 
 taken, by the violence of the shaking it 
 often happens that several become firmly 
 wedged between the bottom and sides of 
 the bottles, and are not removed by the 
 subsequent rinsings of clean water, and 
 if the bottles are used for acid wines or 
 other liquids, (almost all home-made 
 wines contain a considerable portion of 
 free acid,) the shots are slowly dissolved ; 
 and from the metallic arsenic which they 
 contajn, as well as from the lead itself, 
 the liquid is rendered poisonous. This 
 effect may be readily guarded against by 
 removing any shots which may have be- 
 come fixed, by a stiff wire slightly 
 hooked at the end. 
 
 Decanters are formed of flint glass 
 which is much softer and more readily 
 scratched than the common kinds ; they 
 require therefore a less rough treatment ; 
 in general, warm (not boiling) water, 
 with the addition of 1 a few pieces of coarse 
 brown paper, and if requisite a little soda, 
 will be found effectual ; should greater 
 force be required, a small portion of tow 
 
 wrapped round the notched end of a 
 moderately stiff wire, and used with a 
 little strong soda, will be found sufficient. 
 Sand or ashes should never be employed 
 in cleaning decanters, as they roughen 
 and totally disfigure the brilliant surface 
 of the glass. 
 
 Drying. It is scarcely necessary to 
 speak of the advantages of being able to 
 dry thoroughly both decanters and com- 
 mon bottles ; if the former, after having 
 been cleaned, are put away wet, they be- 
 come musty ; and many liquids are much 
 injured by being put into wet bottles. 
 Some of our readers have doubtless ex- 
 perienced the inefficiency of the ordinary 
 means of drying decanters, &c. j after 
 draining for some days they still remain 
 damp, and if placed near a fire the 
 warmth merely drives the vapor to the 
 colder part of the vessel ; they may, how- 
 ever, be readily and quickly dried after 
 draining, by making them slightly warm 
 and blowing in fresh air with a pair 
 f bellows, which rapidly carries out the 
 damp vapor, and leaves the vessel per- 
 "ectly dry. If bellows are not at h and, the 
 damp air may be drawn out (not blown) 
 with the mouth, assisted by a tube suffi- 
 ciently long to reach nearly to the bot- 
 tom of the decanter ; in the laboratory a 
 piece of glass tube is usually taken, being 
 always at hand, but for domestic use a 
 Diece of paper may be rolled up so as to 
 orm an extemporaneous and effectual 
 substitute. 
 
 M Little can be said with re- 
 gard to the corking of bottles, beyond 
 stating the fact that cheap bad corks are 
 always dear; the best corks are soft, 
 velvety, and free from large pores ; if 
 squeezed they become more elastic and 
 fit more closely. If good corks are used 
 of sufficiently large size to be extracted 
 without the corkscrew, they may be em- 
 ployed many times in succession, especi- 
 ally if they are soaked in boiling water 
 
DOMESTIC MANIPULATION. 
 
 61 
 
 afterwards, which restores them to their 
 original shape, and renews their elas- 
 ticity. 
 
 Tying down. The operation of tying 
 down corks merits a longer notice, as 
 without it many effervescent liquids could 
 not he preserved. The most common 
 mode of fastening down corks, is with 
 the ginger-beer knot, which is thus made : 
 First the loop is formed as in Fig. 1 
 
 Fig. 1. 
 
 then that part of the string which passes 
 across the loop is placed on the top of 
 the cork, and the loop itself passed down 
 around the neck of the bottle, and by 
 pulling the ends of the 
 cord is made tight beneath 
 the rim ; the ends of the 
 string are finally brought 
 up, and tied either in a 
 double knot, or in a bow on F . 2 
 the top of the cork. When ginger-beer is 
 made at home, it will be found most ad- 
 vantageous to use the best corks, and to tie 
 them down with a bow, when both corks 
 and strings may be made use of re- 
 peatedly. 
 
 For effervescent wines, such as cham- 
 pagne, gooseberry, &c., which require to 
 be kept a longer time, and are more valu- 
 able, a securer knot is desirable, which 
 may be made thus : A loop as in Fig. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 2 is first formed, and the lower end is 
 then turned upwards and carried behind 
 the loop as shown at Fig. 3 ; it is then 
 pulled through the loop as in Fiq. 4, and 
 in this state is put over the neck of the 
 
 bottle ; the part a being on one side, and 
 the two parts of the loop on the other 
 
 Fig. 4. 
 
 on pulling the two ends the whole be- 
 comes tight round the neck, and the ends, 
 which should be quite opposite, are to 
 be brought up over the cork, twice twist- 
 
 Fig. 5. 
 
 ed, as in Fig. 5, and then tied in a single 
 knot. 
 
 Stoppering. The stoppering of bottles 
 is an operation usually performed by the 
 makers ; it may, however, be useful to 
 know that badly fitting stoppers may be 
 readily fitted by regrinding ; this is done 
 by dipping the stopper in a mixture of 
 fine sand, or still better, emery and wa- 
 ter, replacing it, and turning it backwards 
 and forwards with a slight pressure; 
 fresh sand must be applied from time to 
 time. When the fitting is exact, so that 
 the stopper turns freely without shaking, 
 the whole may be finished off by using a 
 little fine emery and oil. 
 
 Unstoppering. This operation is much 
 more likely to be required than the last 
 one described, for the stoppers of decan- 
 ters, smelling-bottles, &c., from various 
 causes, frequently become fixed, and 
 many are the fractures both of bottles 
 and stoppers, caused by the misdirected 
 efforts to remove them. In treating of 
 the various means that may be employed 
 
62 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 we will mention them in the order in 
 which they should be tried, beginning 
 with the simpler and more easy. a:il pass- 
 ing on to those which are more effectual, 
 and at the same time, unfortunately, more 
 dangerous. The first method, then, that 
 should be tried, is to press the stopper 
 upwards with the fore-finger and thumb 
 of the left hand (the other fingers hold- 
 ing the neck of the bottle), and at the 
 same time giving the stopper a succession 
 of short, sharp, light taps, with the wood- 
 en handle of a chisel, knife, or small ham- 
 mer ; care must be taken not to strike 
 the stopper with suificient force to break 
 it, and it should be borne in mind that 
 it is not the force of the blo^r, but the 
 vibration, or jar, which is effectual in 
 loosening it; should this plan be found 
 ineffectual after a short trial, it may 
 probably be from the Stopper being 
 cemented by some substance, such as the 
 dried sugar of a sweet wine. In such 
 cases we should endeavor to dissolve the 
 cement by a suitable solvent, which 
 should be placed in the groove between 
 the stopper and the bottle ; thus if the 
 stopper is cemented with sugar, gum. or 
 salt, water may be used ; in many circum- 
 stances, oil is advantageous, or spirit, or 
 even strong acid may be used ; whatever 
 liquid is employed it should be allowed 
 to remain some days, being renewed if 
 requisite, and the tapping, &c., should be 
 aguin had recourse to. 
 
 Should these methods fail, a piece of 
 cloth may be dipped in very hot water 
 an- 1 wrapped round the neck of the bot- 
 tle, when the heat causes the expansion 
 of the glass, and if the stopper be tapped 
 or tvvisted before the heat has had Jtime 
 to enlarge it, its removal may be effected ; 
 tins operation must necessarily be a quick 
 one. for if the stopper is heated and en- 
 larged, as well as the bottle, it is obvious 
 that no benefit will result. In the labo- 
 ratory it is often 'customary to heat the 
 bottle, not by a strip of cloth* dipped in 
 
 hot water, but by turning it rapidly ovei 
 the flame of a lamp ; in this way there is 
 more danger of cracking the bottle, and 
 the plan is not to be recommended in 
 general, although employed with consid- 
 erable success by those who, like opera- 
 tive chemists, are constantly in the habit 
 of applying heat to glass vessels. It will 
 at once be seen that the plan is fraught 
 with great danger if applied to bottles 
 containing inflammable liquids, as spirits, 
 &c. 
 
 The most effectual mode of removing 
 stoppers, especially those of small bottles, 
 such as smelling-bottles, remains to be 
 described. Take a piece of strong cord, 
 about a yard or four feet in length, dou- 
 ble it at the middle, and tie a knot (Fig. 
 6, 5) so as to form a loop (a) of about 
 I 
 
 Fig. 6. 
 
 four inches in length at the doubled end, 
 bring the knot close to one side of the 
 stopper, and tie the ends tightly together 
 on the opposite side, as at Fig. 7, e, so as to 
 
 Fig. T. 
 
 fasten the string securely round the neck 
 of the stopper ; now pass one of the ends 
 through the loop (), and then tie it firm- 
 ly .to the other end; tin doubled cord is 
 then to be placed over a bar or other 
 support,. then if the bottle is surrounded 
 by a cloth to prevent accidents in case 
 of fracture, arid pulled downwards with 
 a jerk, the fores of which is gradually in- 
 creased, it will be found that in a snort 
 time the stopper is liberated. Two pre- 
 
DOMESTIC MANIPULATION. 
 
 63 
 
 cautions are requisite ; one is, that the 
 strain on both sides of the stopper is 
 equal ; the other, that care be taken that 
 when the stopper is liberated, it is not 
 dashed by the rebound against any hard 
 substance, which would cause its fracture. 
 
 CUTTING, GRINDING, AND WRITING ON 
 GLASS. , 
 
 We have described the most advanta- 
 geous modes of extracting fixed stoppers 
 from decanters, &c. It is possible that 
 some of our readers may have followed 
 our advice sufficiently well to have suc- 
 ceeded, in cracking the necks of their 
 decanters. In case any should have been 
 so unfortunate, or rather we would say, 
 if we were quite sure we were not ad- 
 dressing ladies so clumsy, let them not 
 despair ; dexterity in manipulation comes 
 by practice ; and as no evil is without a 
 remedy, we will next consider what can 
 be done with the broken decanter. Un- 
 less it is cracked down to the bottom, it 
 may be cut off and converted into a hand- 
 some sugar basin ; or if not high enough 
 for that purpose, will serve for a pickle- 
 dish, or a flower-stand, &c. ; and in the 
 same way, a tumbler broken at the upper 
 part will furnish an elegant salt-cellar, 
 or serviceable soap-dish; and even com- 
 mon bottles, if sufficiently stout, may be 
 made into useful jars, instead of being 
 consigned to the dust-heap. 
 
 The operation of cutting glass, con- 
 sists in leading a crack in the required 
 direction ; this is readily done by a hot 
 iron rod, a piece of pointed burning char- 
 coal, or, what is still better, a burning 
 pastile which is somewhat similar in 
 its composition to those used for fumi- 
 gation ; and which latter, although rather 
 expensive, and inconvenient from their 
 shape, may be applied for the purpose 
 When the' operation of cutting up glass 
 vessels into useful forms is much had re- 
 
 ourse to, pastiles are prepared for the - 
 mrpose, being superior to a heated iron 
 od, as they continue to burn and retain 
 heir heat, whilst the latter requires to be 
 e- heated, if the crack has to be led any 
 considerable distance. Pastiles are read- 
 ly made t>y rubbing up half an ounce 
 f powdered gum tragacanth with water, 
 so as to form a mucilage about as thick 
 as ordinary starch; this should be al- 
 owed to remain a few hours, and then 
 mixed with a quarter of an ounce of ben- 
 zoin, previously dissolved in the smallest 
 >ossible quantity of proof spirit ; after 
 mixing them together in a mortar, as 
 much powdered charcoal should be added 
 as will form .a stifl' paste, and the whole 
 well worked together, rolled into sticks 
 ;he size of a common black-lead pencil, 
 and dried. As thus prepared, they 
 should be free from cracks, and solid 
 throughout ; and on being ignited at the 
 nd, they will burn steadily away to a 
 point. If an iron rod is used, it should 
 be nearly as stout as the little finger, 
 and taper at the end. for an inch and a 
 half to a blunt point. Before commen- 
 ing the line along which it is wished to 
 divide the glass, it should be marked 
 with a pen and ink, and allowed to dry, 
 when the iron, heated to dull redness, 
 on the lighted extremity of the pastile, 
 should be brought to the end of a crack, 
 being held in a slanting direction with 
 regard to the glass, as shown in the cut, 
 and slowly moved in an oblique direc- 
 tion towards the line ; the crack will be 
 found to follow the heated point, and 
 may thus be led as required, even pass- 
 ing over parts Varying very considerably 
 in thickness, as in the case of the flut- 
 ings on a cut decanter; but it cannot, 
 with certainty, be made to pass suddenly 
 from a very thin to a very stout part, or 
 the reverse : thus it may be led around 
 the sides of a tumbler, but could hardly 
 be made to pass down one side, across 
 
64: 
 
 THE PEACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 the bottom and up the other. The ra- 
 pidity with which the operation is per- 
 formed, depends upon the heat of the 
 iron or pastile ; if the former is very hot, 
 or the latter made to burn more viv- 
 idly by blowing upon it, the operation is 
 quickened, but it is not performed with 
 so much certainty, as the crack may pass 
 on further than is desirable : care should 
 be taken not to lead the crack too near 
 
 the edge of the vessel, or to another 
 crack, as in that case it is apt to leave 
 the proper course, and fly suddenly to 
 the edge, to which an inexperienced op- 
 erator should not attempt to go nearer 
 than half an inch. 
 
 It sometimes occurs that a piece is 
 broken out of a glass, without leaving 
 any crack to commence from; in this 
 case, one must be made, by heating the 
 edge (one formed by the fracture, if pos- 
 sible) with the iron or pastile, and in- 
 stantly applying the moistened finger. 
 When a crack is formed, which may be 
 used as described above, care must be 
 taken not to cause an extensive fracture, 
 which may run across the intended line 
 ( of division ; this may be avoided by com- 
 n.encing the crack at some distance from 
 the line, and by applying the heated point 
 for a very short time, preferring to make 
 two or three unsuccessful attempts rather 
 than to hasten the operation, and risk 
 the destruction of the glass. When a 
 glass vessel has been thus divided, the 
 edges are sufficiently sharp to cut the 
 fingers in handling, and are usually 
 
 wavy ; it is therefore necessary to make 
 them smooth and even. The most ready 
 way of doing this is, by grinding them 
 down on a flat sandstone, or ordinary 
 paving-stone, with a little sharp sand or 
 emery, and water, taking care to move 
 the glass in a circular direction, and not 
 merely backwards and forwards; the 
 smoothness of the whole will depend en- 
 tirely on that of the stone, and on the 
 fineness of the sand or emery employed. 
 If, from any irregularity, there is much 
 glass to grind away, it is preferable to 
 commence with sand, and finish with 
 emery on a smooth stone ; if the edges 
 are not thus ground down, they should 
 have the sharp angles, which are really 
 dangerous, removed by a fine file, which 
 should be moistened with oil of turpen- 
 tine or camphene, as this liquid has an 
 extraordinary effect in increasing the 
 action of the file upon the glass, and at 
 the same time protecting the steel instru- 
 ment from wear. 
 
 Advantageous as cracks are in glass 
 vessels whenever we wish to separate 
 them into two parts, they are by no 
 means desirable under other circumstan- 
 ces ; and it is as important to know how 
 to stop their progress, as to lead them 
 forward. This is readily done in stout 
 glass, by drilling a hole about half an 
 inch in advance of the crack, which 
 gradually passes on into it, and then its 
 farther progress is arrested. Holes may 
 be drilled in glass with a common drill 
 and bow, the place being first marked 
 with a file or flint, and the drill point 
 kept wet with oil of turpentine. It is 
 hardly necessary to state, that a crack 
 existing in the neck of a decanter, and 
 liable to be forced apart with the stopper, 
 could not be arrested in its progress by 
 such means. If necessary, a little emery 
 powder may be used with oil of tur- 
 pentine ; and after the operation, the hole 
 must be filled up with some cement ; it 
 
DOMESTIC MANIPULATION. 
 
 65 
 
 the vessel is to be used for holding liquids, 
 a little fresh slacked lime, moistened 
 with equal parts of white of egg and 
 water, may be used for this purpose. 
 
 The grinding of glass on a flat stone 
 with sand or emery, and water, is often 
 useful in making a bottle stand steadily ; 
 and by its means a wineglass with a 
 broken foot may be turned to good ac- 
 count ; for if as much of the stem as pos- 
 sible is knocked off, by striking it with 
 the back of a knife, the remainder may 
 be ground away so that the vessel will 
 stand. 
 
 One of the most important Domestic 
 Manipulations, although one of the most 
 simple and easy, is the labelling of glass 
 vessels. It is not too much to affirm, 
 that scores of lives might have been 
 saved if this had been attended to. In 
 cases of accidental poisoning, we usually 
 find that the victim has drunk from some 
 bottle which has been put away without 
 a label ; and thus some corrosive liquid 
 used for cleaning, or some poisonous 
 lotion, has been inadvertently swallowed. 
 One of the most ready modes of label- 
 ting glass, and other objects, consists in 
 having at 'hand a sheet of paper, which 
 has had spread on one side some gum 
 water, mixed with half its weight of 
 coarse brown sugar, and allowed to dry ; 
 this may be cut into labels, written on, 
 and readily attached to glass by moisten- 
 ing with the tongue ; the white margin 
 of a sheet of postage stamps answers 
 the purpose very well. If, however, acid 
 liquids are used, or the vessel is placed 
 in a damp situation, as a cellar, other 
 means must be had recourse to. With 
 a little practice, it is easy to write in a 
 legible, though not very conspicuous man- 
 ner, on glass, with a gun-flint, or with 
 the sharp-edged fragments of common 
 flint. In the laboratory what is called a 
 writing diamond is used for this purpose ; 
 this should not be confounded with a 
 
 lazier's diamond, which is used for di- 
 viding, and not scratching glass. We 
 would here caution our readers against 
 writing on glass with a diamond ring, 
 &c., as the practice injures the jewel con- 
 siderably ; in the glazier's diamond, the 
 natural edges of the crystal are used, 
 which are not liable to injury as are the 
 cut angles of a brilliant. 
 
 When glass vessels are exposed to 
 damp, the best mode of writing on them 
 is to prepare an ink for the purpose, by 
 mixing the common cheap varnish, called 
 Brunswick black, with half its weight of 
 oil of turpentine, or what is the same 
 thing, in a purer state, camphene ; this 
 should be kept in a closely corked bottle, 
 and used with a broad nibbed quill pen ; 
 it soon dries, and though pale, is very 
 distinct, and almost imperishable. If it 
 is required much darker, about a quarter 
 of an hour after it has been done, a little 
 lampblack should be rubbed over it, 
 with cotton or wadding, when it imme- 
 diately becomes as black as common ink, 
 and resists damp, and rubbing or wiping 
 with either wet or dry cloths for a very 
 long time. The same ink is equally 
 advantageous for use with white earthen- 
 ware ; and although we have never had 
 occasion to use such a mixture, there is 
 no doubt that a little whiting mixed thin 
 with any common varnish, would furnish 
 an equally useful ink for writing on black 
 bottles. 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 DECANTING, STEAINING, AND FILTER- 
 ING OF LIQUIDS. 
 
 The decanting of liquids is, under or- 
 dinary circumstances, an operation suffi- 
 ciently simple to require no explanation j 
 but the ease and certainty with which it 
 can be performed, depend entirely upon 
 the form of the vessel from which the 
 liquid is poured; the adhesion , existing 
 between liquids and solids giving rise to 
 
66 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 a tendency in the former to run down 
 the outside of the vessel; and if the 
 latter is nearly full, or very large in cir- 
 cumference, or the sides approach the 
 perpendicular direction, this accident 
 almost always occurs. The difficulty of 
 returning a glass of wine to the decanter, 
 or of pouring from one full tumbler into 
 another, are well known examples of this 
 inconvenience. 
 
 Advantage may, however, be taken of 
 the adhesion of liquids to solids, and by 
 it the former ma}' be led into the re- 
 quired direction. This cannot be better 
 illustrated than by a description of the 
 means by which a glass of wine may be 
 returned, without spilling, to the decan- 
 ter. If a teaspoon is dipped into the 
 wine, so as to become wetted with it, and 
 then held perpendicularly with the bowl 
 downwards, and the point over, but not 
 touching, the entrance into the decanter, 
 and the edge of the glass be made to 
 touch the back of the spoon, it will be 
 found, on inclining the former, that the 
 wine, kaving a perpendicular solid body 
 to adhere to and run down, v/ill do so in 
 preference to trickling along the oblique 
 outer surface of the wineglass ; and in 
 this mode a liquid may be poured steadily 
 out of any similar vessel with so little 
 disturbance as not to agitate any sedi- 
 ment that may exist in it. In the lab- 
 oratory of the chemist, a piece of glass 
 rod is usually employed for this purpose ; 
 but a spoon, or pencil, or any similar sub- 
 stance having a surface capable of being 
 wetted/by the liquid, answers equally 
 well/ 
 
 1% however, the vessel out of which it 
 is wished to decant is large, very full, or 
 the sides, on pouring, are nearly perpen- 
 dicular, the plan is not successful ; thus, 
 it could not be employed in aiding the 
 transfer of the liquid from one full tum- 
 bler to another. Even this may be ac- 
 complished without the aid of a funnel, 
 or without spilling, by preventing the 
 
 adhesion of the liquid to the edge or side 
 of the vessel out of which it is poured, 
 which may be readily done by greasing 
 the rim, when it will be found, quite prac- 
 ticable to pour out of a nearly full tum- 
 bler without spilling. 
 
 In many instances, the employment of 
 a syphon in decanting will be found very 
 advantageous, particularly when the con- 
 taining vessel is large, and cannot be read- 
 ily moved, or when there is any sediment 
 which it is desirable not to disturb. The 
 most simple form ofthis instrument con- 
 sists of a tube, bent as in Fig. 1, with 
 one leg shorter than the other ; this may 
 be made of glass, pewter, or, in fact, of 
 any kind of stiff tubing that will retain 
 its form a piece of gutta percha pipe, 
 carefully bent by a moderate warmth, 
 whilst a piece of stout cord is in the in- 
 terior to prevent the sides closing togeth- 
 er, answers very well. Before use. the 
 syphon must be filled with liquor; this 
 is best accomplished Joy turning it upside 
 down, with the opening to the short leg 
 raised on a level with that of the long 
 one, when the liquid should be poure^d 
 into the former. When both legs are 
 filled, they should be closed with the fin- 
 gers ; the shorter leg introduced into the 
 liquid it is wished to draw off; and the 
 opening of the longer leg brought to a 
 lower level than that of the shorter, and 
 
 Fig. I. 
 
 on removing the fingers the liquid will 
 flow as in Fig. 1, until it is below the 
 level of the short leg. If the syphon is 
 made of small tubing, or is lessened at 
 
DOMESTIC MANIPULATION. 
 
 67 
 
 the opening so as not to exceed one quar- 
 ter of an inch in diameter, there will be 
 no occasion to close the end of more than 
 one leg with the finger, as the liquid will 
 not flow when it is brought to the proper 
 position unless .both orifices are open ; 
 and thus the necessity of plunging the 
 finger into the liquid is obviated, and the 
 syphon can also be used with a narrow- 
 necked bottle, into which the hand could 
 not be passed. 
 
 To do away with 
 the necessity of filling 
 the syphon before use, 
 the instrument is usu- 
 ally made with a suck- 
 ing tube, as in Fig. 2 ; 
 in this case, all that is 
 requisite is, to intro- 
 duce the short leg, 
 close the opening to 
 the long one, and by 
 the action of the mouth, draw up the 
 liquid until both legs are full, when on 
 removing the finger, the stream will flow. 
 A very ingenious syphon of this kind is 
 described by the German chemist Mohr ; 
 it is thus constructed : Take a long Eau 
 de Cologne bottle, and, with a file and 
 turpentine, make a deep notch across, 
 about an inch and a half from the bottom ; 
 then, with a charcoal point or pastile, or 
 hot iron, produce a crack, and cut off the 
 bottom, grinding it smoothly ; then take 
 a tube -bent at an angle of forty-five de- 
 grees, and, by means of a good cork, per- 
 forated with a rat-tail rasp, fit it tightly 
 in the bottom of the bottle, and add also 
 
 Fig. 2. 
 
 Fig. 8. 
 
 another piece of tubing for a suction tube ; 
 the whole will then have the appearance 
 represented in Fig. 3, and will form an 
 exceedingly useful, and very convenient 
 syphon. 
 
 .In emptying large stone bottles or 
 carboys, the following plan may be had 
 recourse to: Perforate a sound cork 
 with two openings by a rat-tail rasp, and 
 
 Fig. 4. 
 
 fit, air-tight, two tubes bent as in F><i. 4. 
 On blowing .through the upper, the liquid 
 will be forced to ascend and run over the 
 bend of the other, which will then act as 
 a syphon. This plan is exceedingly use- 
 ful in emptying carboys of corrosive 
 liquids, as oil of vitriol, &c. ; and if all the 
 joints are as they should be air-tight, 
 the flow may be arrested by closing the 
 upper tube with the finger. In the fig- 
 ure the outer leg of the syphon is short- 
 ened to save space ; in practice it must 
 be of sufficient length to be lower than 
 the inner leg within the vessel. 
 
 If a syphon is required frequently for 
 decanting the same kind of liquid, it is 
 found troublesome to be constantly filling 
 it before each time of using ; this trouble 
 is obviated by the use of an instrument 
 
68 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 formed with legs of equal length, which 
 are turned up at the ends, as in Fig. 5 ; 
 this having been filled, may be hung up 
 in the erect position, and the liquid will 
 
 A not escape, but on plung- 
 ing one end into a liquid, 
 it will be found immedi- 
 ately to flow from the 
 other, provided that the 
 latter is below the level 
 of the surface of the liquid. 
 The operations of 
 straining and filtering are frequently re- 
 quired in domestic manipulations, and 
 the apparatus employed usually consists 
 of sieves and a jelly-bag. As, in many 
 other instances, it will be found advanta- 
 geous to import several contrivances from 
 the laboratory to the kitchen, one of the 
 most useful (because most simple) strain- 
 ers consists of a square frame, formed of 
 four pieces of wood nailed together at the 
 corners, with a piece of calico, linen, or 
 canvas, of suitable fineness, tacked to the 
 four sides ; this strainer is particularly 
 useful in separating any solid substance 
 as the residue in making wines or if 
 grated potatoes are put on one made of 
 coarse cloth, the starch can be readily 
 washed through, leaving the useless por- 
 tion on the strainer; the cloth should 
 not be tacked very loosely, as it bags 
 down when any substance is put on it, 
 and the liquid runs away below from the 
 centre. This strainer is a most useful 
 one ; it is readily made, of any degree of 
 fineness, and of any size ; and it also pos- 
 sesses the great advantage, that, if necessa- 
 ry, the tacks fastening the cloth can easi- 
 ly be withdrawn, when the substance 
 remaining can be rolled up in the cloth, 
 and tightly squeezed, to express the last 
 portions of liquid. 
 
 In cases where a finer filtration is re- 
 quired than can be obtained by means of 
 a cloth, as in cleaning turbid wine or 
 spirit, the use of filtering-paper is recom- 
 
 mended. This paper is merely a stouter 
 kind of blotting-paper, thick varieties of 
 which answer very well for domestic pur- 
 poses ; it is most simply used by taking 
 a square piece, folding it into half by 
 bringing the two opposite edges together 
 and then folding the oblong so obtain- 
 ed across its length; by this means a 
 small square is obtained, one quarter the 
 original size, which may be opened into 
 a hollow cup, having three thicknesses of 
 paper on one side, and one on the other ; 
 this is to be placed with the point down- 
 wards, in a funnel, and the liquid poured 
 in ; and as soon as the pores of the paper 
 are expanded by the moisture, it will be 
 found to flow through perfectly clear; 
 care must be taken in making the filter, 
 not to finger it much where the two fold- 
 ings cross each other, as a hole is readily 
 made at that part, and the filter spoiled. 
 The objection to this simple contrivance 
 is, that from its fiat sides applj'ing them- 
 selves closely to those of the funnel, the 
 flow of the liquid is impeded, and is, 
 therefore, slow. This effect may be obvi- 
 ated by the use of the plaited filter, the 
 construction of which we will endeavor 
 to describe. A square piece of filtering, 
 or stout blotting-paper is to be doubled, 
 and the oblong so obtained is to be again 
 folded in half, when if the last fold is 
 opened, it will have the appearance of 
 Fig. 6. From the corners b &, folds are 
 to be creased in the direction towards a, 
 but not reaching it for half an inch ; these 
 are indicated by the dotted lines, which 
 & d 6 
 
 c a c 
 
 Fig. 6. 
 
 divide the double paper into four trian- 
 gles, each of which is to be again folded 
 into eighths, and care must be taken that 
 
DOMESTIC MANIPULATION". 
 
 69 
 
 all the folds are made the same way, that 
 is, projecting to the same side of the pa- 
 per. When complete, the doubled and 
 creased paper will appear as Fig. T. Now 
 
 Fig. 7. 
 
 divide each eighth into half, by a fold in 
 the opposite direction to those previously 
 made, when it will be found that the 
 whole will readily fold up like a paper 
 fan ; the projecting loose ends which are 
 formed by the corners 5, should be cut 
 off, and the double sides separated for the 
 first time by blowing them apart, when 
 the whole may be readily opened out as 
 in Fig. 8. In making 
 this filter, which takes 
 a much less time than 
 to follow the descrip- 
 tion, two precautions 
 are requisite. The 
 folds should be made 
 at once with one firm 
 pressure, and not with 
 Fig. 8. a series of rubbings ; 
 
 and all the creases should stop short of 
 the middle, otherwise a hole will be made 
 at that point, long before the filter is 
 coiqtpleted. The advantages of this filter 
 are that it exposes a large surface for the 
 liquid to pass through ; and from its only 
 being in contact with the funnel where 
 the angles project, the current flows 
 away readily. 
 
 The best means for filtration of water, 
 and the construction of water niters, will 
 be treated of when we speak of the " do- 
 mestic manipulation" connected with 
 that liquid. 
 
 CHAPTER Xin. 
 
 THE MANUFACTURE AND USE OF CEMENTS. 
 
 THE term cement, includes all those 
 substances employed for the purpose of 
 
 causing the adhesion of two or more 
 bodies, whether originally separate, or 
 divided by an accidental fracture. As 
 the substances that are required to be 
 connected together are exceedingly vari- 
 ous, and differ very much in their proper- 
 ties as to texture, &c., &c., and as the 
 conditions under which they are placed, 
 with regard to heat and moisture, are 
 also exceedingly variable, a number of 
 cements, possessed of very different 
 properties, are required; for a cement 
 that answers admirably under one set of 
 circumstances, may be perfectly useless 
 in others. A vast number of cements 
 are known and used in the various arts ; 
 but they may all be referred to a few 
 classes, and our object in this paper will 
 be to describe the manufacture and use 
 of the best of each class, and also to state 
 what are the general principles upon 
 which the success or failure of cement- 
 ing usually depends. 
 
 The different parts of a solid are held 
 together by an attraction between their 
 several particles, which is termed the at- 
 traction of cohesion, or cohesive attrac- 
 tion. The amount of this varies with 
 the substances ; thus, the cohesion of the 
 particles of iron to one another is enor- 
 mously great, whilst that between those 
 of chalk is but smalk This attraction 
 acts only when the particles are in the 
 closest possible contact; even air must 
 not be between them. The attraction 
 of cohesion which takes place between 
 the parts of the same substance, must 
 not be confounded with that of adhesion, 
 which is the attraction of different sub- 
 stances to one another ; for example, the 
 particles of a piece of wood are united by 
 cohesive attraction, whilst the union of 
 lue and wood to each other depends on 
 adhesive attraction. And it is important 
 ;hat this distinction be borne in mind, 
 for, in almost all cases, the cohesion be- 
 tween the^particles of the cement is very 
 much less than the adhesion of thn 
 
70 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 cement to other bodies; and if torn 
 apart, the connected joint gives way 
 not by the loosening of the adhesion 
 but by the layer of cement splitting 
 down the centre. Hence the important 
 rule, that the less cement in a joint, the 
 stronger it is. Domestic manipulators 
 usually reverse this, by letting as much 
 cement as possible remain in the joint, 
 which is, therefore, necessarily a weak 
 one. A thick, nearly solid cement, which 
 cannot be pressed out of the joint, is al- 
 ways inferior to a thinner one, of which 
 merely a connecting film remains between 
 the united surfaces. 
 
 Having thus mentioned the general 
 principles that ought always to be borne 
 in mind, we will now proceed to describe 
 the manufacture of some of the more use- 
 ful cements, and their mode of use. 
 
 Mouth Glue affords a very convenient 
 means of uniting papers, and other small 
 light objects; it is made by dissolving 
 by the aid of heat, pure glue, or gelatine, 
 with about one quarter or one-third of 
 its weight of coarse brown sugar, in as 
 small a quantity of boiling water as pos- 
 sible ; this, when perfectly liquid, should 
 be cast into thin cakes on a flat surface 
 very slightly oiled, and as it cools cut up 
 into pieces of a convenient size. When 
 required for use one -end may be moist- 
 ened by the moutn, and is then ready to 
 be rubbed on any substances it may be 
 wished to join ; a piece kept in the desk 
 or work-box is very convenient. 
 
 Paste is usually made by rubbing up 
 flour with cold water and boiling ; if a lit- 
 tle alum is mixed before boiling it is 
 much improved, being less clammy, 
 working more freely in the brush and 
 thinner ; a less quantity is required, and 
 it is therefore stronger. If required in 
 large quantity, as for papering rooms, it 
 may be made by mixing one quartern of 
 flour, one quarter pound of alum and a 
 little warm water ; when mixed, the re- 
 
 quisite quantity of boiling water should 
 be poured on whilst the mixture is 
 being stirred. Paste is only adapted to 
 cementing paper; when used it should 
 be spread on one side of the paper, which 
 should then be folded with the pasted 
 side inwards, and allowed to remain a few 
 minutes before being opened and used; 
 this swells the paper, and permits its 
 being more smoothly and securely at 
 tached. Kept for a few days, paste be- 
 comes mouldy, and after a short time 
 putrid ; this inconvenience may be ob- 
 viated by the use of 
 
 Permanent Paste, made by adding to 
 each half-pint of flour paste without 
 alum, fifteen grains of corrosive sublimate, 
 previously rubbed to powder in a mortar, 
 the whole to be well mixed ; this, if pre- 
 vented from drying, by being kept in a 
 covered pot, remains good any length of 
 time, and is therefore convenient; but 
 unfortunately it is extremely poisonous, 
 though its excessively nauseous taste 
 would prevent its being swallowed ac- 
 cidentally; it possesses the great ad- 
 vantage of not being liable to the attacks 
 of insects. 
 
 Liquid Glue is made by dissolving 
 shell-lac in water, by boiling it with 
 borax, which possesses the peculiar 
 property of causing the solution of the 
 resinous lac. This preparation is con- 
 venient for its cheapness and freedom 
 from smell, but it gives way if exposed 
 to long-continued damp, which that made 
 with naphtha resists. 
 
 Of the use of common glue, very little 
 need be said ; it should also be prepared 
 in a glue -pot or double vessel to prevent 
 its being burned, which injures it very 
 materially. The objection to the use of 
 this contrivance is, that it renders it im- 
 possible to heat the glue in the inner 
 vessel to the boiling point ; this incon- 
 venience can be obviated by employing 
 in the outer vessel soirie liquid, which 
 
DOMESTIC MANIPULATION. 
 
 71 
 
 boils at a higher temperature t than pure 
 water, such as saturated solution of salt. 
 This boils at 224 Fahr., 12 above the 
 heat of boiling water, and enables the 
 glue in the inner vessel to be heated to 
 a much higher temperature than when 
 pure water is employed. If a saturated 
 solution of nitre is used, the temperature 
 rises still higher. 
 
 Waterproof Cements are very numer- 
 ous ; a very good one for uniting china 
 and glass will .be found elsewhere. It 
 should be stated, however, that the gum 
 ammoniac should be alsx) dissolved in a 
 small quantity of spirit. Mastic, used 
 instead of ammoniac, makes a clearer 
 cement. This mixture, under various 
 fanciful titles, is usually sold at a most 
 exorbitant rate. 
 
 Lime and Egg Cement is frequently 
 made by moistening the edges to be 
 united, with white of egg, dusting on 
 some lime from a piece of muslin, and 
 bringing the edges into contact. A much 
 better mode is to slake some freshly 
 burned lime with a small quantity of 
 loiling water ; this occasions it to fall 
 into a very fine dry powder, if excess of 
 water has not been added. The white 
 of egg used should be intimately and 
 thoroughly mixed, by beating, with an 
 equal bulk of water, and the slaked 
 lime added to the mixture, so as to form 
 a thin paste which should be used 
 speedily, as it soon sets. This is a valu- 
 able cement, possessed of great strength, 
 and capable of withstanding boiling 
 water. Cements made with lime and 
 blood, scraped cheese, or curd, may be 
 regarded as inferior varieties of it. 
 Cracked vessels, of earthenware and 
 glass, may often be usefully, though not 
 ornamentally repaired by white lead 
 spread on strips of calico, and secured 
 with bands of twine. But in point of 
 strength, all ordinary cements yield .the 
 palm to Jeffery's Patented Marine Glue, a 
 
 compound of India-rubber, shell-lac, and 
 coal-tar naphtha. When applied to china 
 or glass, the substances should be cau- 
 tiously made hot enough to melt the 
 glue, which should then be rubbed on the 
 edges so as to become fluid, and the parts 
 brought into contact immediately. When 
 well applied, the mended stem of a com- 
 mon tobacco-pipe will breafc at any other 
 part, in preference to the junction. The 
 color of the glue unfortunately prevents 
 its being used. 
 
 The Red Cement^ which is employed 
 by instrument- makers for cementing 
 glass to metals, and which is very cheap, 
 and exceedingly useful for a variety of 
 purposes v is made by melting five parts 
 of black resin, one part of yellow wax, 
 and then stirring in, gradually, one part 
 of red ochre or Venetian red, in fine 
 powder, and previously well dried. This 
 cement requires to be melted before use, 
 and it adheres better if the objects to 
 which it is applied are warmed. A soft 
 cement, of a somewhat similar character, 
 may be found useful for covering the 
 corks of preserved fruit, and other bot- 
 tles, and it is made by melting yellow 
 wax with an equal quantity of resin, or of 
 cojnmon turpentine, (not oil of turpen- 
 tine, but the resin), using the latter for 
 a very soft cement, and stirring in, as 
 before, some dried Venetian red. Bear- 
 ing in mind our introductory remarks, 
 it will be seen that the uniting broken 
 substances with a thick cement is disad- 
 vantageous, the object being to bring the 
 surfaces as closely together as possible. 
 As an illustration of a right and a wrong 
 way of mending, we will suppose a plaster 
 of Paris figure broken ; the wrong way 
 to mend it is by a thick paste of plaster, 
 which makes, not a joint, but a botch. 
 The right way to mend it, is by means of 
 some well-made carpenter's glue, which, 
 being absorbed into the porous plaster, 
 leaves merely a film covering the two 
 
THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 surfaces. If well done, the figure 
 stronger there than elsewhere. 
 
 One useful substance is termed mastic 
 cement, which is used for making a supe- 
 rior coating to inside walls, and which 
 must not be confounded with the resin 
 mastic. It is made by mixing twenty 
 parts of well-washed and sifted sharp 
 sand, with two parts of litharge, and one 
 of freshly burned and slaked quick-lime, 
 in fine dry powder. This is made into a 
 putty, by mixing with linseed oil ; it sets 
 in a few hours, having the appearance of 
 light stone ; and we mention it as it may 
 be frequently employed with advantage 
 in repairing broken stone-work (as stairs) 
 by filling up the missing parts. fc The em- 
 ployment of Roman cement, plaster, &c., 
 for masonry work, hardly <comes within 
 the limits of Domestic Manipulation. 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 DIVIDING, POWDERING, GRINDING, ETC. 
 
 THE operations of chopping, powder- 
 ing, grinding, &c., are so frequently re- 
 quired in cooking, and the other branches 
 of domestic economy, as to render apy 
 description of their utility wholly unne- 
 cessary; and we may therefore confine 
 ourselves to describing the best means 
 of accomplishing the object desired. 
 Powdering is usually performed by the 
 aid of the pestle and mortar. Most of 
 the works on Cookery recommend the 
 use of a marble mortar ; this material 
 is about one of the worst that could be 
 selected for the purpose. In the first 
 place, it is expensive ; secondly, it is ra- 
 pidly corroded, even by the weak acids 
 used for food; thirdly, it is readily 
 stained by oily substances ; fourthly, it 
 is absorptive of strong flavors, impart- 
 ing them readily to the next substance 
 pounded; and lastly, it is brittle, and 
 
 even if not broken, is not calculated to 
 withstand much wear. By far the best 
 material for the purpose is the Wedge- 
 wood ware; mortars made of it are 
 cheaper, cleaner in use, and stronger than 
 those of marble, and are not corroded by 
 acids or alkalies their pre-eminence is 
 so great, that they are invariably used 
 by druggists. 
 
 The act of powdering requires great 
 tact and practice to perform it neatly and 
 rapidly. After the object has been bro- 
 ken into small pieces by blows from the 
 pestle, a grinding action is required ; this 
 should at first be given by striking the 
 fragments, not in the centre of the mor- 
 tar, but towards the side furthest from 
 the operator ; the pestle, by this means, 
 grinds over them in its descent to the 
 centre, and much more rapidly accom- 
 plishes their division than if mere blows 
 are given. After the object has been di- 
 vided to a certain extent, blows are en- 
 tirely useless, and a grinding in circles 
 becomes requisite; if the circle is con- 
 fined to one part of the mortar, the same 
 portions get rubbed over and over again, 
 the others escaping ; this is avoided by 
 constantly and regularly altering the 
 size of the circles. If they are com- 
 menced in the centre, they should grad- 
 ually increase in size until the sides are 
 reached, and then contract again, and so 
 on. By this means the whole of the 
 powder is brought un- 
 der the action of the 
 pestle, and the operation 
 
 / \i l iiir\ is much < i uicker than tf 
 
 / 1 1 1 111 \ performed at random. 
 One great fault usually 
 committed in powder- 
 ing, is the endeavor to 
 operate on too large a 
 quantity of material at 
 one time. The opera- 
 Fig. 9. tion is much more ra- 
 
 pidly conducted if small' portions are ta- 
 
DOMESTIC MANIPULATION. 
 
 73 
 
 ken ; and if the material, is tough, and 
 contains much fibrous matter, the process 
 may be very much shortened by remov- 
 ing those parts which are sufficiently 
 powdered, by sifting from time to time 
 through a sieve. This may be objection- 
 able, however, from the fine powder es- 
 caping into the air ; in this case, the fol- 
 lowing contrivance will be found useful : 
 A cylindrical tea-canister of the requi- 
 site size is taken, with a loosely fitting 
 lid (or if tight, the lid may be enlarged 
 by four slits being made partly up the 
 sides ) ; a bag of lawn is dropped into 
 the canister, the top being turned over 
 the edge ; the powder to be sifted is put 
 in a bag, the lid put on, and, by tapping 
 and shaking, the finest portions pass into 
 the canister without any escaping into 
 the air a point of very considerable im- 
 portance where the powder is irritating 
 or expensive. 
 
 All vegetable, and many mineral sub- 
 stances, are much more readily pow- 
 dered after having been thoroughly dried ; 
 so far is this process carried, that many 
 drugs are dried so as to lose fifteen per 
 cent, of their weight before powdering. 
 After drying, substances should not be 
 exposed to the air, but, unless they are 
 of such a nature as to be softened by 
 heat, are better operated on whilst still 
 warm. Flints are more readily powdered 
 by being heated to redness and quenched 
 in cold water ; charcoal, for tooth pow- 
 der, whilst still warm from drying. 
 Gum can only be powdered Vhilst per- 
 fectly dry. Camphor, which is with 
 great difficulty powdered alone, yields 
 readily if a drop or two of spirit is 
 poured on it. Substances which clog 
 together and cake under the pestle, are 
 not uncommon ; to these it is sometimes 
 requisite to add sand, which may after- 
 wards be separated this prevents the 
 clogging ; but its use is often impractica- 
 ble. Lime, if required in very fine pow- 
 
 der, for dusting over plants to kill slugs, 
 &c., is readily obtained by slaking it, 
 when fresh burned, with 'boiling water ; 
 when, if too much water is not used, it 
 falls into an exceedingly fine powder. 
 
 Sal-ammoniac, and some other saline 
 bodies, are most readily powdered by dis- 
 solving them in as small a quantity of 
 boiling water as possible, and stirring the 
 solution rapidly as the water is boiled 
 away, or as the solution cools. Before 
 dismissing the pestle and mortar, we may 
 allude to its use in mixing powders to- 
 gether, although a much more ready mode 
 of doing this is with a sieve. Two or 
 more" powders stirred together and passed 
 two or three times through a sieve, are 
 much more intimately mixed, than if 
 rubbed for a long time in a mortar. 
 Metals cannot be divided in the mortar ; 
 the most convenient mode of proceeding, 
 if they are fusible under a white heat, is 
 to melt them, and pour them whilst 
 liquid into a pail of water, which should 
 be full to avoid any spluttering, and the 
 hotter the metal, the more filmy the par- 
 ticles. It is scarcely requisite to state, 
 that the metal should be poured in a cir- 
 cle, so as not to collect at one place. 
 
 Chopping is usually performed in the 
 kitchen, with a large common knife ; but 
 is more speedily done by some of the 
 improved contrivances similar to the fol- 
 lowing : The chopping-board should be 
 
 Fig. 10. Mff. 11. 
 
 made of hard wood, with the grain at 
 right angles to the surface of the board, 
 
THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 by which it is rendered much more dura- 
 ble, than if they are parallel to it. The 
 chopping-knives should be fixed at right 
 angles to the handles, and may be either 
 of the preceding patterns. If a large 
 quantity of material has to be acted on, 
 we would recommend a board as above, 
 not less than three inches thick, and 
 smooth on both sides, so that either may 
 be used, of the requisite size say eigh- 
 teen inches or two feet in diameter. On 
 this should stand a loose bottomless tub, 
 to confine the materials, and. the whole 
 resting on the floor, should be used with 
 a knife, sufficiently long in the handle to 
 be employed by a person standing erect, 
 and it should have a small cross-bar for 
 the hands, as shown in Fig. 12. 
 
 Small chopping-knives are sold, con- 
 sisting of three blades riveted together ; 
 and a very convenient one is made by 
 fastening, at convenient distances, a num- 
 ber of flat circular disks, sharpened at 
 the edges, to a central axis with a han- 
 dle at each end. 
 
 Many substances, such as stale bread, 
 dried herbs, &c., may be very conven- 
 iently powdered by rubbing them through 
 
 fig. 12. 
 
 a wire sieve, of the requisite degree of 
 fineness. Herbs intended for use in this 
 way, should be dried as rapidly as possi- 
 ble, without being scorched, in small 
 heaps, before the fire ; parsley and others 
 done in this way, may be powdered, re- 
 
 taining their bright green color and fla- 
 vor, both of which are preserved if they 
 are corked tightly in bottles, and kept in 
 a dry, dark cupboard. The use of waxed 
 naper to preserve dried powders in, or for 
 tying them down in jars, or generally as 
 a very good substitute for bladder, will 
 often be found convenient. It is readily 
 made by laying a sheet of smooth stout 
 paper on a warm iron plate, as the top of 
 a kitchen oven ; on this place the thin 
 tissue or other paper to be waxed ; put 
 a piece of wax on it, and as it melts, rub 
 it over, spreading it evenly. One end of 
 a cork, covered with two thicknesses of 
 linen, answers very well for a rubber. 
 If a hot plate is not at hand, the sheet 
 of paper may be held before the fire, and 
 rubbed over, as it warms, with the cut 
 edge of a cake of white wax ; but this 
 requires the co-operation of two persons. 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 KNOTS, PACKAGES, PARCELS, ETC. 
 
 THE poet Crabbe, speaking of the writ- 
 ing of the rustics, signing his parish reg- 
 isters, says 
 
 " 'Tis strange that men 
 
 Who guide the plough should fail to guide the pen ! 
 For half, a mile the furrows even lie ; 
 For half an inch the letters stand awry." 
 
 A parallel remark might with equal 
 justice be made on the gentler sex, who, 
 after exercising a degree of tact, neat- 
 ness, and tasteful invention, that the self- 
 styled " lords of the creation " might in 
 vain hope to rival, in the formation of a 
 piece of needlework, knitting, netting, or 
 crochet, are, for the most part, totally 
 unable, when it is finished, to tie it up so 
 as to make a decent parcel ; ladies' pack- 
 ages are, in fact, the opprobrium of the 
 sex the annoyance of all carriers, who 
 
DOMESTIC MANIPULATION. 
 
 75 
 
 have any thing to do with their convey- 
 ance, and the torment of their owners ; 
 the cords are certain to become loose, the 
 knots are sure to slip, except when a 
 slip-knot is requisite, and then it is a fix- 
 ture ! It is in the hope that we may be 
 instrumental in improving this state of 
 things, that we are induced to devote this 
 chapter to Knots, Packages, Parcels, &c., 
 and we shall at once lay before our fair 
 readers a method of tying a parcel neatly 
 and securely, and at the same time afford- 
 ing facilities for releasing the contents 
 without destroying the string by cutting 
 it away a too ordinary practice-, espe- 
 cially where tune is an object. 
 
 The most simpje purpose for which a 
 knot is required, is the fastening togeth- 
 
 Fig. 13. 
 
 er of two pieces of string or cord : the 
 knot selected for this purpose should pos- 
 sess two important properties ; it should 
 be secure from slipping, and of small size. 
 Nothing is more common than to see two 
 cords attached together in a manner sim- 
 ilar to that shown in Fig. 13. It is 
 scarcely possible to imagine a worse knot ; 
 it is large and clumsy, and as the cords 
 do not mutually press each other, it is 
 certain to slip if pulled with any great 
 force. In striking contrast to this the 
 worst of all, we place one of the best ; 
 namely, the knot usually employed by 
 netters, and which is called by sailors 
 " the sheet-bend." It is readily made 
 by bending one of the pieces of cord into 
 a loop (a 5, Fig. 14), which is to be 
 held between the finger and thumb of the 
 left hand; the other cord c is passed 
 through the loop from the farther side 
 then round behind the two legs of the 
 loop, and lastly, under itself, the loose 
 end coming out at d. In the smallness 
 
 of its size, and the firmness with which 
 the various parts grip together, this knot 
 surpasses every other: it 
 can, moreover, be tied read- 
 ily when one of the pieces, 
 J, is exceedingly 
 
 viz. a 
 short j 
 
 hi 
 
 common stout 
 twine, less than an inch 
 being sufficient to form the 
 loop. The above method 
 'of forming it is the sim- 
 plest to describe, although 
 not the most rapid in prac- 
 tice ; as it may be made in 
 much less time by crossing 
 the two ends of cord (a 
 5, Fig. 15) on the tip of 
 \\ the fore-finger of the left 
 Mff ' 14 hand, and holding them 
 firmly by the left thumb, which covers 
 the crossing ; then the part c is to be 
 b 
 
 Fig. 15. 
 
 wound round the thumb in a loop as 
 shown in the figure, and passed between 
 the two ends, behind a and before 5 ; the 
 knot is completed by turning the end 5 
 downwards in front of d, passing it through 
 the loop, securing it under the left thumb, 
 and tightening the whole by pulling d. 
 As formed in this mode, it is more rapidly 
 made than almost any other knot ; and, 
 as before stated, it excels all in security 
 
76 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 and compactness, so firmly do the various 
 turns grip each other, that after having 
 been tightly pulled, it is very difficult to 
 untie ; this the only drawback to its use- 
 fulness, and in this respect it is inferior 
 to the reef-knot, Fig. 16, which is made 
 in precisely the same manner that a shoe- 
 string is tied, only pulling out the ends 
 instead of leaving them as 
 bows. The only precaution 
 necessary in making* a reef- 
 knot is, to observe that the 
 two parts of each string are 
 on the same side of the loop ; 
 if they are not, the ends (and 
 the bows if any are formed) 
 are at right angles to the 
 cords; the knot is less se- 
 cure, and is termed by sailors 
 a granny-knot. Other knots 
 are occasionally used to con- /, 
 nect two cords, but it is un- A 
 necessary to describe them,| 
 as every useful purpose may I 
 be answered by those above- 
 mentioned. Pig, 16. 
 
 The binding knot (Figs. 17 and 18) is 
 
 Fig. 17. 
 
 exceedingly useful in connecting broken 
 sticks, rods, &c., but - some difficulty is 
 often experienced in fastening it at the 
 finish ; if, however, the string is placed 
 over the part to be united, as shown in 
 Fig. 17, and the long end 5, used to bind 
 around the rod, and finally passed 
 through the loop , as shown in Fig. 18, 
 it is readily secured by pulling d, when 
 the loop is drawn in, and fastens the end 
 of the cord. 
 
 For fastening a cord to any cylindrical 
 object, one of the most useful knots is 
 the clove hitch, which, although exceed- 
 ingly simple and most easily made, is one 
 of the most puzzling knots to the unin- 
 itiated. There are several modes of form- 
 ing it, the most simple being perhaps as 
 follows : make two loops, precisely simi- 
 
 Fig. 19. 
 
 lar in every respect as a and 5, Fig. 19, 
 then bring b in front of a, so as to make 
 both loops correspond, and pass them 
 over the object to be tied, tightening the 
 ends ; if this is properly done, the knot 
 will not slip, although surrounding a tol- 
 erably smooth cylindrical object, as a pil- 
 lar, pole, &c. This knot is employed by 
 surgeons in reducing dislocations of the 
 last joint of the thumb, and by sailors in 
 ?reat part of the standing rigging. The 
 loop which is formed when a cable is 
 passed around a post or tree to secure a 
 vessel near shore, is fastened by what 
 sailors term two half hitches, which is 
 simply a clove hitch made by the end of 
 the rope which is passed around the post 
 or tree, and then made to describe the 
 clove hitch around that part of itself 
 which is tightly strained. 
 
 From the tying of knots we may pass 
 on to the tying over of bottles, preserves, 
 jars, &c.j the object with which this 
 
DOMESTIC MANIPULATION. 
 
 77 
 
 operation is performed is either to pre- 
 vent the excess of air or the, escape or 
 entrance of moisture ; the act itself is so 
 very simple as to require no explanation ; 
 but a few words may be said on the 
 choice of material, which should be varied 
 so as to suit the exigencies of each particu- 
 lar case. When a vessel of spirit is to 
 be tied over, leather is frequently select- 
 ed a very erroneous practice, as the va- 
 por of spirit passes readily through that 
 substance, but cannot penetrate bladder, 
 which should be invariably used for the 
 purpose. So effectually is spirit con- 
 fined by bladder, that when weak spirits 
 are put into bladders or into vessels tied 
 over with bladder, and allowed to remain 
 some time, they are strengthened, as the 
 vapor of the water passes away, that of 
 the spirit being retained. 
 
 Bladder or other animal membranes of 
 the same nature, in a moist and flaccid 
 state, are usually selected for tying over 
 preserves and jams, for which they are 
 well adapted. Many persons place a thin 
 piece of brandied paper in the jar resting 
 on the jam, in addition to tying it down ; 
 this assists in excluding air and prevent- 
 ing mouldiness, but we have found a piece 
 of very thin paper moistened with white 
 of egg much more efficacious. The thin 
 sheet-lead used for lining the interior of 
 tea-chests, or stout tin-foil, is very advan- 
 tageously used in tying down vessels con- 
 taining specimens of natural history pre- 
 served in spirits, as they effectually pre- 
 vent the escape of the latter for a long 
 series of years. The plan usually pursued 
 is to tie the cork over first with a single 
 bladder, then with the metal, and finally 
 with a second piece of bladder, which is 
 afterwards covered with a coat of black 
 paint. 
 
 The tying up of parcels in paper is an 
 operation which is seldom neatly per- 
 formed by persons whose occupations 
 have not given them great facilities for 
 constant practice. Whether the paper be 
 
 wrapped round the objects, as is the case 
 usually when it is much larger than suffi- 
 cient to enclose them, or merely folded 
 over itself, as is done by druggists, who 
 cut the paper to the required size, it is im- 
 portant that the breadth of the paper 
 should be no longer than sufficient to 
 enable it to be folded over the ends of 
 the object enclosed, without passing over 
 the opposite side; it is impossible to 
 make a neat or close parcel with paper 
 which is too broad ; excess in length may 
 be readily disposed of by wrapping it 
 round ; but excess of breadth should be 
 cut away. With regard to turning in the 
 ends the mode adopted by grocers is the 
 best. The most common cause of failure 
 in parcels is their being badly corded ; 
 we will, therefore, (however unnecessary 
 the description of so simple a perform- 
 ance may appear to those already ac- 
 quainted with it), describe the most 
 readily acquired mode of cording. 
 
 Let a single knot be made in the end 
 of the cord, which is then passed round 
 the box or parcel. This knotted end is 
 now tied by a single hitch round the mid- 
 dle of the cord (Fig. 20), and the whole 
 pulled tight. The cord itself is then car- 
 ried at right angles round the end of the 
 parcel, and where it crosses the transverse 
 cord on the bottom of the box (Fig. 21), 
 it should (if the parcel is heavy, and re- 
 j quilts to be firmly secured) be passed 
 over the cross cord, then back underneath 
 it, and pulled tightly, then over itself; 
 lastly, under the cross cord, and on 
 around the other end of the box. When 
 
 Fiff. 20. 
 
 it reaches the top it musi be secured by 
 
THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 passing it under at that part of the cord 
 which runs lengthways (a, Fig. 20), pull- 
 ing it very tight, and fastening it by two 
 half hitches round itself The great cause 
 
 Fig. 21. 
 
 of parcels becoming loose is the fact of 
 the cord being often fastened to one of 
 the transverse parts (as 5, Fig. 20), in- 
 stead of the piece running lengthways, 
 and in this case it invariably becomes 
 loose. The description may perhaps be 
 rendered clearer by the aid of the figures, 
 which exhibit the top and bottom of a 
 box corded as described. The cords, how- 
 ever, are shown in a loose state to allow 
 their arrangements to be perceived more 
 easily. 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 IN spite of our receipts and our phi- 
 losophy, the briskness of the fire, the 
 skill of our cook, the excellence of the 
 oven, the bright array of pots, kettles, 
 pans, moulds, griddles and gridirons, and 
 the presiding genius of even a half For- 
 tunatus sort of a purse, or the most 
 rigid scale and measure of economy, one 
 grand puzzle besets alike all kitchens 
 the difficulty of really getting the ingredi- 
 ents on which the mystery of food manu- 
 facture is to be exercised. 
 
 The very water we have to cook with 
 is crowded with millions of monsters 
 things with two heads and no heads, 
 with countless legs and no legs, with 
 jaws and pincers and claws, and most 
 
 wonderful springy tails ; in some water 
 well nigh^nough of them to make a sort 
 of soup, to say nothing of the chalk, 
 lime, iron, and a host of other impuri 
 ties. 
 
 The sugar, if it be brown, without tak- 
 ing note of such items as a little lead, a 
 good deal of sand, some clay and flour, 
 is pretty nearly as thick as it can hold 
 of chips of cane and swarms of mites. 
 
 Our tea, if green, is painted and pol- 
 ished with Prussian blue, turmeric pow- 
 der, and China clay, and is a mixture of 
 all the leaves that the wonderful industry 
 and ingenuity of the Chinese, can accom- 
 plish ; we have old tea-leaves dried and 
 twisted up, and colored and glazed, and 
 sold for black and green ; we have even 
 gunpowder made up of dust and sand, 
 and gum, faced as they call it with plum- 
 bago. 
 
 Coffee, fragrant, and refreshing, has 
 almost become a myth; we may have 
 pneumatic coffee-pots that will not let 
 the finest dust pass through their strain- 
 ers, French coffee-pots, German coffee- 
 pots, and all kinds of traditional direc- 
 tions for the manufacture : but not one 
 of them can -help us to make coffee, un- 
 less as good old Mrs. Glass would say, 
 " we have first got our coffee ; " and what 
 with foreign roguery and home roguery 
 the chances are twenty to one against 
 us, that the brown powder we are at so 
 much pains with, once flourished at the 
 end of a blue flower, on a long stalk 
 under our own hedges, being known 
 where it grew under the name of wild 
 endive, christened in trade chicory, and 
 being in reality a tall and aristocratic 
 sort of dandelion, possessing too the me- 
 dicinal properties of dandelion, and none 
 whatever of the properties of coffee. 
 But even if people be taken with a liking 
 for this dandelion tea instead of coffee, 
 they cannot have it pure. The chicory 
 itself is far top costly to content the 
 avaricious roguery of a number of deal- 
 
WHAT WE EAT. 
 
 ers, and so it is adulterated with roasted 
 corn, parsnips, manglewurzel, beans, 
 Egyptian lupin seed, biscuit powder, 
 burnt sugar, roasted carrots., oak bark, 
 tan, acorns, mahogany sawdust, and no 
 little sand, the result of the original dirt 
 judiciously left as a make-weight upon 
 the root of the chicory itself. 
 
 Mustard can scarcely be said to have 
 even the color of mustard, for it is colored 
 with turmeric, and what passes for mus- 
 tard is in many a case little more than 
 mere husks and flour. 
 
 Pepper is messed up with wheat flour, 
 mustard-seed husks, sago-meal, pea -flour, 
 and ware-house sweepings ; nor does it 
 fare better with food for invalids, oat- 
 meal being mingled with far less diges- 
 tive barley-meal at half the price. Ar- 
 row-root (which it should be understood 
 is the produce of under-ground branches 
 or bulbs of the maranta plant, growing 
 in the West and East Indies, having 
 gained its name of arrow-root from the 
 belief that it was a remedy against poi- 
 soned arrows,) is to the utmost econo- 
 mized ; and though its purity is often of 
 great importance to the invalid, there is 
 for the most part sold instead, sago-flour, 
 tapioca-flour, and most commonjy of all, 
 potato-starch. 
 
 Milk and bread are not so much adul- 
 terated. But the milk, partly by the 
 kind of keep of the cows, partly by a 
 little careful skimming, and in a multi- 
 tude of cases by the liberal aid of the 
 pump, is duly thinned. Flour and breacfcj* 
 of old mixed with plaster of Paris, 
 ground bones, and potato-starch thanks 
 to the cheapening of pure materials, has 
 come to content itself with alum only. 
 But this running account of roguery, 
 except for its curiousness, would be of 
 little use without a few hints, as to par- 
 tial detection and prevention. 
 
 As to tea, it is best to be content with 
 black tea alone. 
 
 For sugar, the best advice is if you 
 
 like to pay for dirt, and to mix it with 
 your preserves, puddings, and pastry, and 
 choose to believe that sugar which' mois- 
 tens even the thick paper they place it in, 
 and which looks dark, smells strong, and 
 sticks to your fingers, is richer in sweet- 
 ening than clear sparkling white sugar, 
 out of which notfe of the sweetening but 
 all of the dirt has been washed then 
 buy brown sugar. 
 
 " Please tell the people over the way," 
 said a gentleman, " that I would take it 
 as a particular favor, if in future they 
 will send me the cow's hairs on one 
 plate, and the butter on another, and I 
 can mix them myself as I want them." 
 Such is our advice as to coffee. It seems 
 beyond the reach of average human hon- 
 esty to sell it pure. The chicory is so 
 fra*grant so wholesome such an im- 
 provement on the flavor of the Arabian 
 berry, and withal so much cheaper, that 
 mixed it must be. We say, therefore, 
 Buy your coffee in the berry, raw ; your 
 chances are at all events fifty to one bet- 
 ter of having cofiee only. Roast and 
 grind it for yourselves, and, if you like 
 chicory or dandelion, endive, or any other 
 weed with it, why, buy the roots, scorch 
 them anjjl grate them, and, like the man 
 with the hairs in his butter, mix them 
 to your taste. But do not, unless you 
 choose to cheat your stomachs, buy 
 ground coffee. A mill will soon pay for 
 itself; and at all events never purchase 
 canisiered or bottled coffee, for in ninety- 
 nine cases out of a hundred an additional 
 dose of dust is made to. pay for the tin 
 or glass.* 
 
 * It may not be amiss to show how tea is made 
 in China, and coffee amongst the Turks. 
 
 The art of making tea consists in pouring the 
 water on and off immediately, so as to get the 
 flavor. 
 
 Coffee-making is a more intricate affair, and can- 
 not be fully conveyed in a receipt. The coffee must 
 be slowly roasted, not burnt, and brought only to 
 an amber brown ; it must be roasted day by day, and 
 reduced by pounding to an impalpable powder. In 
 making it, two opposite and apparently incompati- 
 
80 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 As to water every one knows that 
 plumbers make the bottoms of the cis- 
 terns thicker than the sides, because the 
 water eats the lead away; hard water 
 does so more than soft, and water from 
 the sante source more at some times 
 than others. Lead, as the phrase is, ac- 
 cumulates in the system, so that ev.er so 
 little, taken day by day, at length sums 
 up to a poisonous dose sufficient to mar 
 the health. The remedy for this mis- 
 chief is simply to have the pipes made 
 of gutta percha. Many spring waters, 
 though of course free from the animal 
 impurities, abound still more in the 
 medicinal. To render such waters fit for 
 healthful use, some process of purifica- 
 tion is absolutely essential, and such 
 purification very perceptively improves 
 both their cooking and washing proper- 
 ties. 
 
 Ordinary filters certainly free water 
 from a considerable quantity of dirt, but 
 not from the medicinal ingredients, nor 
 even from all the animalculae, some of 
 which, though quite visible as monsters 
 with a microscope, nevertheless find 
 their way through the filter. One of the 
 simplest processes of purification, if peo- 
 ple will only take the trouble t$ perform 
 it and it is surely worth it for the in- 
 crease of comfort and the advantage to 
 health is for every forty gallons that 
 the cistern holds to pour in one gallon of 
 lime-water j this has the effect of throw- 
 
 ble ends are to be secured strength and flavor. To 
 obtain the first, it must be boiled ; by boiling, the 
 second is lost. The difficulty is surmounted by a 
 double process, one thorough cooking, one slight 
 one ; by the first a strong infusion is obtained, by 
 the second that infusion is flavored. Thus a large 
 pot with coffee-lees stands simmering by the fire ; 
 this is the sherbet. When a cup is wanted, the 
 pounded coffee is put in the little tin or copper pan, 
 and placed on the embers ; it fumes for a moment, 
 then the sherbet is poured on ; in a few seconds the 
 Troth (cairnah) rises; presently an indication that 
 It is about to boil is made manifest, when the coffee 
 Is instantly taken from the fire, carried into the 
 apartment, turned into the cup, and drunk." Ur- 
 Qufu/rfs Pillars of Hercvle*. 
 
 ing down from the water a large propor- 
 tion of the chemical ingredients, and no 
 small multitude of. the animalculae. 
 Another method of purification is by 
 long slow boiling, then allowing the 
 water to cool, and filtering it. Some 
 trouble no doubt there is in any such 
 course ; but pure water, like pure air, is 
 essential to a life of health, and those 
 who will not be at the trouble, must 
 make up their minds to some degree of 
 infirmity and unhappiness. 
 
 The subject of the Water-supply to 
 large towns is one of the highest impor- 
 tance to the well-being of the commu- 
 nity. > 
 
 The quality of water for domestic pur- 
 poses depends mainly upon its degree of 
 hardness or softness ; and this in its turn 
 depends almost entirely upon the quan- 
 tity of lime dissolved in some form or 
 other in the water. It is found, upon 
 experiment, that one gallon (weighing 
 70,000 grains) of pure water will not 
 dissolve more than two grains of chalk, 
 and so acquire two degrees of hardness ; 
 and that whenever more is contained in 
 water, the excess is always owing to the 
 presence of carbonic acid gas, which ena- 
 bles it to dissolve a much larger quantity. 
 The practical part of our subject depends 
 on this fact ; for if by any means we can 
 get rid of the carbonic acid, the dissolved 
 chalk is necessarily precipitated, and the 
 hard water, unfit for culinary and domes- 
 tic purposes, becomes soft, and well 
 adapted to both these uses. Carbonic 
 acid is in part expelled from water by 
 heating it to the boiling point: a still 
 larger quantity is got rid of after boiling 
 for some few minutes, and nearly every 
 trace disappears at the end of half an 
 hour ; and just in proportion as the car- 
 bonic acid gas is expelled, so does the 
 chalk fall, rendering the water in the first 
 instance turbid, and becoming deposit- 
 ed .on the interior surface of kettles, 
 
PURITY OF WATER. 
 
 51 
 
 where it forms the well-known rock of 
 fur. 
 
 It has been found that water of 14 de- 
 grees of hardness lost two degrees when 
 merely made to boil; boiling for five 
 minutes reduced the hardness to 6 de- 
 grees ; and for a quarter of an hour, to 
 little more than 4 degrees. The practi- 
 cal application of this knowledge needs 
 scarcely to be pointed out. Whenever a 
 soft water is required, boil for several 
 minutes before using. In making tea, for 
 instance, the economy and general supe- 
 riority of a soft water is well known. 
 How many a young gentleman, with a 
 smattering of science just enough to in- 
 form him that water gets no hotter how- 
 ever long or violently it is boiled, has 
 laughed at his grandmother's antiquated 
 notions, because she requested that the 
 water might be made to boil thoroughly 
 before the te.a was made : the old lady 
 could give no very satisfactory explana- 
 tion of her prejudice, yet it was not the 
 less a correct one. 
 
 Before going further in this matter, it 
 may be stated that there are some waters 
 in wtiich the lime is dissolved in the form 
 of gypsum (sulphate of lime) : in these, 
 the hardness is of a permanent character, 
 and cannot be lessened by boiling. Tea 
 made under such circumstances may be 
 improved, either by the addition of a 
 very small quantity of carbonate of soda 
 or the tea should be kept soaking for half 
 an hour, under such circumstances as 
 will retain the heat. 
 
 In washing, the use of hard water is 
 as is well known, extremely prejudicial 
 The explanation is exceedingly simple 
 every degree of hardness in a gallon o 
 water destroys 10 grains of soap. 
 
 There is one practical matter of grea 
 importance, to which we wish to draw 
 the attention of all concerned : it is th 
 effect of boiling linen in hard water. I 
 clothes are put into cold water, and the 
 boiled the precipitation of chalk take 
 
 lace on the clothes, and whatever color- 
 ng matter exists in the water goes down 
 rith the chalk, and also becomes attached 
 ) tlte linen, rendering it of that disa- 
 reeable and unremovable dirty hue 
 vhich is so characteristic of certain laun- 
 ries. If boiling is absolutely requisite 
 or white fabrics, it should be done in 
 water which has been boiled half an hour, 
 llowed to stand, and then poured off 
 rom the sediment ; otherwise, from the 
 mmediate precipitation of the chalk, the 
 irt is boiled in and thoroughly fixed to 
 he fabric. A moment's consideration 
 ill convince any one, that a deposit 
 imilar to the fur in a tea-kettle cannot 
 >e expected to improve the appearance 
 )f white linen. Where clean rain water 
 can be obtained, there is no objection to 
 he boiling of clothes in it ; as, being ab- 
 solutely free from lime, no precipitation 
 :an take place. The use of soda in soft- 
 jning water employed in washing, is well 
 inown ; but the remedy is not without 
 ts own evil : it weakens the fibre of the 
 ;loth, and unless it is much more thor- 
 oughly removed by rinsing than is 
 usually the case, it occasions a very per- 
 manent yellow tinge when the cloth is 
 heated. 
 
 CHAPTER XVH. 
 
 BOILING, STEWING, ETC. 
 
 FROM considering the properties of 
 hard and soft water, we pass by a natural 
 transition to the employment of that 
 liquid in culinary operations. In prac- 
 tice, nothing can at first sight appear 
 more simple than the operation, of boil- 
 ing, whether it be confined to the .mere 
 heating of a liquid, or extended to the 
 preparation of an article of food ; yet it 
 is one which involves chemical principles 
 of a very high order, and which is by nc 
 
82 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 means so simple a matter as it may be 
 regarded at a cursory glance. 
 
 To trace the steps of the process from 
 its commencement, let us imagine 4 ves- 
 sel of water placed over the fire, and re- 
 ceiving constantly a supply of heat from 
 that source ; the effect is, that its tem- 
 perature gradually rises from about 50 
 or 60, the usual warmth of ordinary 
 water, to 212, the point at which boiling 
 takes place; but before it reaches that 
 height, a number of bubbles may be ob- 
 served foaming on the sides of the ves- 
 sel ; these gradually increase in size, and 
 when they become sufficiently buoyant, 
 quit their position, rise to the surface, 
 and escape; they consist of air previ- 
 ously dissolved in thewater, and which 
 is expelled by the increased heat. Water 
 which has been boiled and allowed to 
 become cold, without much exposure to 
 the air, fails to reabsorb the quantity it 
 previously contained, and consequently 
 hr.s its character somewhat altered. 
 Thus, it freezes more readily than water 
 which has not been boiled, in consequence 
 of the air not having to be expelled in 
 the act of solidifying, as is usually the 
 case : hence, the ice from boiled water is 
 free from those numerous air bubbles 
 which are always to be observed in com- 
 mon ice. It possesses also a mawkish, 
 unpleasant taste, and is totally unable to 
 preserve the life of any aquatic animal. 
 The presence of this minute quantity of 
 air in ordinary water, is very essential to 
 its utility. Faraday found that water, 
 totally destitute of air, does not boil in 
 the usual mode, but when heated to the 
 boiling point, it at once, with an instan- 
 taneous and violent explosion, passes into 
 the form of steam. This strange fact, ' 
 which shows upon what small, and. ap- ! 
 parently* trivial circumstances, the com- 
 fortnay, we may truly say the exist- 
 ence of man depends, is strikingly shown 
 by a very ingenious experiment, devised ' 
 by that celebrated chemist. He took a i 
 
 piece of Wenham Lake ice, (which, from 
 peculiar local causes, such as being formed 
 from spring water, is totally destitute of 
 air,) and melted it under a covering of 
 sweet oil ; this prevented the absorption 
 of any air during the liquefaction; on 
 continuing the heat, the water rose in 
 temperature, and on reaching the boiling 
 point, suddenly burst into steam, with 
 an explosive power sufficiently great to 
 scatter the glass vessel in which the ex- 
 periment was made into fragments ; and 
 had it not been for a protecting covering 
 of wire gauze, very serious effects might 
 have ensued. 
 
 From the precipitation of the dissolved 
 chalk present in most kinds of water^ a 
 cloudiness or slight turbidity is always 
 to be observed in boiled water. 
 
 After the escape of the air, bubbles of 
 steam, at first very small in size, - are 
 formed at the bottom of the vessel, those 
 formed at first are at once cooled from 
 the whole water not being of an equal 
 temperature, and are condensed before 
 they reach the surface : this very rapid 
 and successive condensation of numerous 
 small bubbles gives rise to that peculiar 
 vibration which occasions what is termed 
 the singing of the teakettle, and which, as 
 is well known, is indicative of its approach 
 to the boiling point ; when the whole 
 water is uniformly heated, this effect no 
 longer occurs, but the bubbles of stean? 
 rise to the surface and escape. After hav- 
 ing been heated to 212, the temperature 
 of water no longer rises ; it is not possible, 
 under ordinary circumstances, to increase 
 the temperature in the slightest degree ; 
 for all the extra heat that is given to 
 boiling water merely produces increased 
 quantity of steam, by which it is carried 
 off, without affecting the heat of the re- 
 maining' water. This is a matter of con- 
 siderable practical importance in cookery; 
 and it should be always borne in mind, 
 that the most gentle simmer is as effica- 
 cious in cooking as the most violent boil- 
 
BOILING. THE BAIN MARIE. 
 
 83 
 
 ing ; for the degree of heat in both cases 
 is precisely the same, so that after hav- 
 ing once raised the water to the boiling 
 point, the most moderate fire is sufficient 
 in ordinary cases to keep it there; by 
 attention to this point, a mo*st enormous 
 saving may often be effected in the con- 
 sumption of fuel, although this is a con- 
 sideration that will be more fully entered 
 into in a subsequent chapter. 
 
 Thick liquids, which do not readily 
 permit the escape of steam or the rapid 
 motion between the particles of fluid, 
 may, however, be readily heated at the 
 part exposed to the fire to a much higher 
 degree, while those portions not imme- 
 diately in contact with the heat are much 
 colder ; from this cause they are very apt 
 to be charred, and if articles of food, 
 they are totally spoiled. To avoid this 
 effect, recourse may be had to the "bain 
 marie, which is simply the same contri- 
 vance that may be observed in a carpen- 
 ter's glue-pot, applied to the preparation 
 of articles of food, being merely an inner 
 vessel to contain the substance to be 
 heated; this is placed in an outer one, 
 the space between the two containing 
 water. O.n placing this contrivance on 
 the fire, it is obvious that the substance 
 in the inner vessel being heated solely 
 by the boiling water, cannot possibly be- 
 come burnt. This most useful contrivance 
 is adopted in all first-class kitchens, and 
 is equally indispensable in the chemist's 
 laboratory ; by its aid, soups, gravies, &c., 
 can be kept hot any length of time with- 
 out; risk, preserves made without burning, 
 &c. The chief precautions required in its 
 use are, that the inner vessel should be 
 thin and formed of metal, so as to allow 
 the rapid transmission of heat from boil- 
 ing water, and care should be taken that 
 the outer vessel does not boil dry. One 
 serious disadvantage attends its use as or- 
 dinarily employed : it is, that it is impos- 
 sible to heat substances in it to the boil- 
 ing point, for the water itself is only at 
 
 that temperature : and the substance in 
 the inner vessel is always a few degrees 
 below. This evil, however, may be en- 
 tirely obviated, by using a solution in the 
 outer vessel, which boils at a higher tem- 
 perature than 212, and which will there- 
 fore raise the inner vessel and its con- 
 tents to that point ; thus, if the water be 
 made to dissolve as much common salt 
 as it is capable of doing, it will not boil 
 until it is heated to 224 ; or if it is satu- 
 rated with sal-ammoniac or nitre, the 
 heat will rise 12 or 14 higher. We 
 need scarcely say that the first of these 
 substances will be found a very useful 
 and economical addition to the bain 
 mane. When chemists require a still 
 higher temperature, they have recourse 
 to a bath of olive oil, which is capable of 
 bearing a degree of heat as high as 500 ; 
 but its extreme danger over an open fire 
 entirely precludes its use in any culinary 
 operation. 
 
 The mode of conducting the operation 
 of boiling should not be uniform, but 
 vary with the different purposes required. 
 Thus, in the case of meat, a temperature 
 of 212 hardens, instead of softening, 
 two of the substances which it contains ; 
 namely, the fibrine, or material forming 
 the chief part of the muscular fibre, and 
 the albumen, or portion which is analo- 
 gous to white of egg ; if, on the contrary, 
 meat is cooked by means of water at a 
 lower temperature, the most nutritious 
 parts are dissolved out, and the solid 
 food left comparatively innutritions. The 
 celebrated German chemist, Liebig, pro- 
 poses the following plan : he recom- 
 mends that a piece of meat of considera- 
 ble size should be taken and plunged into 
 perfectly boiling water, over a good fire ; 
 that the water should be kept boiling for 
 a few minutes, and then a portion of cold 
 water, eqjial in quantity to about one-half 
 of the boiling water, should be thrown 
 in : this will reduce the temperature to 
 about 160, at which point the meat 
 
THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 should be kept until thoroughly done ; 
 which, however, takes a mueh longer 
 time than the ordinary mode. 
 
 The object of this mode of proceeding 
 is, in the first instance, to harden the ex- 
 terior of the meat, converting it into a 
 sort of crust, which prevents the escape 
 of the nutritious juices into the water, 
 while the long continuance of the gentle 
 heat afterwards cooks the interior with- 
 out hardening either the albumen or the 
 fibrine. Of course, where the object of 
 boiling is to make soup, the opposite plan 
 must be had recourse to; the meat 
 should be in small instead of large pieces, 
 put on in cold water and very slowly 
 heated, so that all the soluble parts may 
 be dissolved before the fibre is hardened 
 by the action of boiling water. 
 
 In boiling eggs, the effect of heat in 
 hardening the albumen is well known ; 
 by being suddenly plunged into boiling 
 water, the outside is hardened to the 
 greatest degree of which it is capable, 
 and is thereby rendered exceedingly dif- 
 ficult of digestion, while the inside is 
 barely warmed ; if, on the contrary, they 
 are placed in cold water, which is then 
 raised to the boiling point, removed from 
 the fire, and allowed* to stand about a 
 minute (or two, if required to be well 
 done,) it will be found that, instead of 
 having an almost leathery consistence, 
 the white will be uniformly partially 
 hardened, and will furnish a much more 
 pleasant and digestible article of diet; 
 the improvement, in fact, is so great, that 
 common eggs cooked in this manner very 
 nearly approach new laid ones in quality. 
 If the operation of boiling has to be 
 performed on any substance containing 
 starchy matters as potatoes, rice, flour, 
 &c., then the heat must, on the contrary, 
 be raised to a sufficient degree to burst 
 the little grains of which the starch con- 
 sists, and liberate the interior nutritious 
 portions, before it can become fit food 
 
 for man; uncooked starch not being 
 readily or easily digested. And even in 
 the case of those 'Vegetable-fee ding ani- 
 mals whose power of digesting such sub- 
 stances surpasses that of man, there is 
 the greatest advantage to be derived from 
 the use of cooked,food, as the most intelli- 
 gent and scientific farmers at the present 
 day well know ; and we would strongly 
 urge on those of our readers who keep 
 pigs to try the experiment of baking the 
 potatoes they give them ; for this process, 
 like boiling, has the effect of bursting the 
 starch grains; they will find the effect 
 to be, that the food will go much further, 
 all of it being digested, and that the 
 quality of the flesh will be very materi- 
 ally improved. 
 
 CHAPTER XVm. 
 
 ECONOMY OF HEAT. 
 
 PERHAPS few of our readers are aware 
 of the extraordinary wastefulness of our 
 usual processes for obtaining artificial 
 heat ; at the most moderate computation, 
 seven-eighths of the warmth produced 
 by an open fire, pass up the chimney, 
 and are entirely useless ; and according 
 to other estimates, which we regard as 
 being nearer the truth, fourteen parts out 
 of every fifteen are uselessly wasted. 
 It may be asked what are the defects of 
 a common fireplace that render it so 
 wasteful, and in what way is the heat 
 carried off? In reply it may be stated, 
 that one half the heat produced passes 
 away with the smoke ajnd heated air 
 arising from the fire, a quarter is carried 
 up by the draught of cold air from the 
 room, which, flowing around the fire and 
 between it and the mantel-piece, rises 
 with the smoke. Again, the soot which 
 passes away is unburned fuel, and is 
 therefore useless ; and a large portion of 
 
ECONOMY OF HEAT. 
 
 85 
 
 heat is thrown downwards upon the ash- 
 es and is wasted ; while the iron of 
 which the ranges are generally made, 
 conveys away a considerable quantity. 
 On the continent of Europe t;he produc- 
 tion of heat is more economically man- 
 aged stoves of very admirable construc- 
 tion being constantly had recourse to, 
 both for the purpose of producing warmth 
 and for cookery. It is to the latter ap- 
 plication of heat that we must mainly 
 confine ourselves, having been at some 
 considerable pains in examining the 
 various stoves and ranges now to be ob- 
 tained. 
 
 The cooking-stove common in Europe, 
 consists of an enclosed fire-pan, with a 
 grating below and a lid at the top for the 
 supply of fuel ; this is enclosed in an 
 oven, supported on the floor of the room 
 by feet, and which is heated by the 
 warmth thrown out by the sides of the 
 fire-pan, and also by a flue spreading over 
 the top, which is thus heated; while the 
 upper surface of the flue forms a hot 
 plate, on which many saucepans, &c., can 
 be kept boiling, and any vessel can also 
 be placed over the fire by the removal ol 
 the lid. As the draught is under perfed 
 control, the fuel is slowly consumed, anc 
 the stove affords means of baking, boiling, 
 frying, and stewing, at a very small ex- 
 pense. 
 
 Those of our readers who visited Prince 
 Albert's Model Cottages opposite the Ex 
 hibition in London, may have noticed a 
 stove looking very much like a long ob- 
 long box, standing on four legs, having 
 two doors in the front, one opening intc 
 a large sized oven, the other disclosing 
 the fire-grate, which was fed by the re 
 moval of a lid at the top ; the draugh 
 from the fire passed over the oven, heat 
 ing it, and the hot plate above. Thi 
 stove combines all the advantages of th 
 continental cooking- stove, with the cheer 
 ful appearance of an open fire; at th 
 same time, by closing up the fire-plac 
 6 
 
 oor, it is converted into a close stovei 
 with an excessively small consumption 
 f fuel. It bakes admirably, either large 
 oints, or bread, at the same time it boils 
 saucepan and steamer over the fire-hole, 
 nd also four large, or six smaller sauce- 
 ans on the top of the hot plate. It fries 
 well, and broilw before the fire, and this 
 with less than one half the fuel that was 
 mployed to do a portion of the work in 
 he range. The Bain Marie, which is so 
 xcellentameans of keeping soups, gravies, 
 auces, &c., hot without burning or dry- 
 ng them up, is readily used with it ; and 
 he saute pan. or deep frying-pan, which 
 s employed as a preliminary operation in 
 most French made dishes, is conveniently 
 used ; this contrivance derives its name 
 rom the verb sauter, to jump the meat 
 3eing rapidly turned over and browned 
 previous to stewing. 
 
 An apparatus may be connected with 
 this or any other stove by which many of 
 the articles for the table or sick-room 
 may be kept fresh and warm. The fol- 
 lowing cut represents a Patent Adjusta- 
 ble Shelf for this purpose, manufactured 
 by Gorton Brothers, New London, Conn. 
 
 Stove Pipe Shelf. 
 
 Those who object to a stove, preferring 
 a range, even at a greater sacrifice of 
 economy, should still be somewhat guidec 
 by correct principles in their selection; 
 
86 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 a range surrounded by iron is an absurdi- 
 ty, as the metal conducts away the heat 
 rapidly ; it should be backed and lined 
 with fire-brick, or Welsh lumps, which 
 throw out the heat with great power. 
 In an open fire-place, the active combus- 
 tion is wanted in front for roasting, and 
 there only should air enter the fire ; in 
 most ranges the air enters below, causing 
 the greatest heat to be thrown upon the 
 ashes. It may be thought that closing 
 up the bottom would produce the same 
 effect as allowing it to be choked up with 
 ashes in a common grate, deadening the 
 fire ; this is not the case with a properly 
 constructed range. Backed with a slant- 
 ing back of fire clay, the ashes can be read- 
 ily removed at the bottom, and all the 
 draught being in front, there is a bright 
 fire at the place where it is required. 
 
 In situations where gas is to be ob- 
 tained, it forms a ready, and for some 
 purposes, very economical means of ob- 
 taining heat ; its economy does not arise 
 from its cheapness com- 
 pared with other means, 
 but from the fact that it 
 need not be lighted till 
 the instant it is required, 
 and can be as quickly ex- 
 tinguished when it has 
 done its required duty; 
 Fig. 2. for heating any vessels 
 containing liquids, especially if the heat 
 is required to be only of short continu- 
 ance, gas will be found extremely advan- 
 tageous. A ring burner, constructed as 
 shown in Fig. 2, less than three inches 
 in diameter, will quickly boil a gallon of 
 water in a metallic vessel; burners of 
 this description are usually used in the 
 laboratory, surrounded by a case made 
 of sheet iron or tinned plate, as in Fig. 3 ; 
 this serves to support the vessel to be 
 heated, to steady the jets of flame, and to 
 conduct every portion of hot air against 
 the bottom ; the door also gives a ready 
 access to the burner for the purposes of 
 jghting the gas. 
 
 For the domestic use of gas in heating 
 we believe there is no contrivance so use- 
 ful as the following: A circular hole, 
 from two to four or more inches in diame- 
 ter, is cut in the dresser, through which 
 is passed a sheet-iron tube, supported by 
 three little elbows ; this tube projects a 
 few inches above the table, and about a 
 foot and a half below ; its lower end is 
 open, and into it projects a gas-pipe, fur- 
 nished with a stop -cock ; the upper ex- 
 tremity is covered with a sheet of wire 
 gauze, similar to that used for blinds, on 
 which, as shown in Fig. 4, may be placed 
 some pieces of pumice-stone, surrounded 
 
 Fig. 8. 
 
 and kept together by a broad ring ; nei- 
 ther the pumice-stone nor the ring, how- 
 ever, are essential parts of the contriv- 
 ance. The action of this arrangement is 
 as follows : When the gas is turned on 
 
 Fig. 4 
 
 it escapes from the pipe, rising through 
 the tube, and mixing with the air contain- 
 ed within it ; this mixture then escapes 
 through the wire gauze, and may be 
 lighted on its upper side, without pass- 
 
ECONOMY OF HEAT. 
 
 8T 
 
 ing through it to the gas below; the 
 flame should be perfectly free from 
 smoke, which indicates too much gas 
 should be pale, colorless, and not soil any 
 bright metal placed in it ; if the flame is 
 in the slightest degree yellow it will do 
 this, and then the gas should be partly 
 turned off on the contrary, if there is 
 not enough gas, the flame will be extin- 
 guished. When lighted, the pumice be- 
 comes red-hot, and throws out a great 
 heak; when used in boiling, the vessel 
 should be supported a short distance 
 over the flame by a trivet ; if it is made 
 to rest on the top of the ring, and is suf- 
 ficiently large to close it entirely, the 
 current is stopped and the flame extin- 
 guished, whilst the unburned gas still 
 escapes below. This contrivance is most 
 useful ; it is lighted in an instant, is per- 
 fectly free from smoke, no unburned gas 
 escapes, it throws out great heat, and 
 may be employed to heat bright tools 
 with much more convenience than a char- 
 coal fire. The objections to its use are, 
 that in burning it produces, as all gas 
 does, a quantity of carbonic acid gas, de- 
 teriorating the air, and that the flame can- 
 not be very much enlarged or diminished, 
 so that if fires of different power are re- 
 quired, two or more of the contrivances 
 must be put in order. Otherwise, the 
 instantaneous action, small cost, great 
 heating power, and cleanliness of the 
 plan, strongly recommend it. In sum- 
 mer weather, in many small families, it 
 can be made to dispense altogether with 
 the use of a fire. By a little variation, 
 the whole contrivance may be made to 
 stand on the table, like Fig. 2 ; in this 
 and other cases, vulcanized India-rubber 
 will be found to form by far the best 
 kind of flexible tube, being quite imper- 
 vious, very durable, and excessively pli- 
 ant. Those who wish to try the experi- 
 ment of heating on this plan, may readily 
 do so by covering the top of the glass 
 
 chimney of any common burner with a 
 piece of wire gauze, folding it over the 
 sides ; the gas may then be turned on, 
 and lighted above the gauze, after it has 
 mingled with the air in the chimney : a 
 small burner, however, does not afford 
 sufficient gas for the purpose, and there 
 is consequently too much air, and the 
 flame is weak and liable to go out. 
 
 We cannot conclude this chapter with- 
 out entering our most earnest protest 
 against all those injurious contrivances 
 for burning charcoal without a flue. The 
 use of charcoal-braziers in a large kitchen 
 is not to be recommended, but a char- 
 coal stove in a dwelling-room is most ob- 
 jectionable. Charcoal, in burning, pro- 
 duces carbonic acid gas, an invisible and 
 therefore insidious poison, which is so 
 deadly in its effects, that if the air of a 
 room contains but one-tenth of its bulk, 
 the breathing of it for any time is fatal. 
 Every pound of charcoal, in burning, pro- 
 duces more than three pounds and a half 
 of this deadly gas. 
 
 In Paris, in the years 1834 and 1835, 
 there were 360 cases resulting from the 
 fumes of charcoal, of which more than 
 260 were fatal. In order to test the 
 effects of these stoves, Mr. Coathupe, of 
 Wraxall, shut himself up in a close room 
 containing eighty cubic yards of air, with 
 one of them in action. In four hours he 
 was seized with giddiness, which, in an 
 hour's time, became most intense ; he 
 then had the desire to vomit, but not the 
 power; this was followed by an utter 
 loss of strength, throbbing at the tem- 
 ples, and agonizing headache, but no 
 sense of suffocation ; finding that the ex- 
 periment was becoming dangerous, he 
 essayed to open the window, but had the 
 greatest difiiculty in so doing ; and when 
 his wife came in ! o the room, he was found 
 in a speechless state, in which he re- 
 mained for some time. 
 
 In a fatal case, which happened in St. 
 
88 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 John's Wood, where two girls were 
 killed by the use of these stoves, it was 
 found, that the quantity of carbonic acid 
 produced was capable of rendering poi- 
 sonous the air of a room ten times the 
 size of -the one in which it was used. 
 Men who, knowing the poisonous effects 
 of these stoves, still sell them, recom- 
 mending them as wholesome, with the 
 deliberate assertion that their prepared 
 fuel, which is merely charcoal disguised, 
 is not deleterious, evince a much more 
 lively interest in the state of their own 
 pockets, than in the lives of their cus- 
 tomers. 
 
 Let it not be imagined that the case of 
 Mr. Coathupe is but a solitary one ; the 
 action of burning charcoal is of the same 
 deleterious nature on all persons. In 
 January 1836, seventy people suffered 
 the same symptoms, though in a milder 
 degree, in the church at Downham, hi 
 Norfolk, England, where two of these 
 dangerous contrivances had been intro- 
 duced: and in the Annales cPHygeine, 
 torn, xi., will be found an account of the 
 suicides hi the department of the Seine 
 in ten years ; these were 4595 in num- 
 ber, of whict 1426 deaths were produced 
 by burning charcoal. We would again 
 recommend our readers undejr no circum- 
 stances, however much they may be re- 
 commended by false assertions, to admit 
 stoves without flues into their houses. 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 CLEANING AND DISINFECTING. 
 
 WE have elsewhere given directions as 
 to the best mode of cleaning various arti- 
 cles, such as bottles, glass, &c. What 
 remains, therefore, under this head, is to 
 furnish hints for cleaning miscellaneous 
 articles, which have not been included 
 
 under previous accounts ; and the very 
 important process of disinfecting, which 
 may be regarded as a medical cleaning, 
 fulls, naturally, into the same chapter. 
 As the substances to be submitted to the 
 process of cleaning vary greatly from one 
 another, we shall find it more convenient 
 to throw our remarks into the form of 
 miscellaneous hints, than to arrange them 
 in a chapter for 'consecutive reading. 
 
 Iron-work which is exposed to wet, 
 rusts rapidly ; it is usually preserved 
 from the action of moisture either by 
 covering it with two pr three coatings of 
 paint, as is customary in large out-door 
 works, or by brushing it over with a 
 varnish termed Brunswick black; this 
 plan is usually followed in the case of 
 smaller substances used iu-doors. A 
 very superior plan for protecting small 
 iron goods from the injurious action of 
 wet, is to heat them a little below red- 
 ness, and whilst hot to brush them over 
 with common linseed oil, which is de- 
 composed by the heat, and forms a thin, 
 very firm coating of varnish, which is 
 quite impervious to water, and unlike 
 paint or Japan-black, does not chip off. 
 It is evident that this plan can only be 
 adopted in few cases, but where it is 
 available we very strongly recommend it. 
 
 Floor Hoarding and other wood work 
 is exceedingly apt to be stained by vari- 
 ous substances spilt upon it. Ink stains, 
 for instance, are extremely obstinate; 
 they withstand washing many times, and 
 at last turn to a rusty iron color, from 
 the application of the alkali of the soap. 
 But the black stain of recent ink and the 
 rusty iron-mould may be removed by the 
 action of oxalic or muriatic acid. As 
 wood is not likely to be injured like cloth 
 or linen, the latter may be used, being 
 the cheaper, and it should be diluted 
 with two or three times its bulk of 
 water, and applied until the stain is re- 
 moved. Grease which has been trodden 
 
CLEANING AND DISINFECTING. 
 
 89 
 
 in, or has remained a long time, should 
 be first softened by the application of a 
 little turpentine, and then it will be 
 found to yield much more readily than it 
 otherwise would to the action of fuller's 
 earth and pearlash or soda. Fruit stains 
 are quickly removed by the action of a 
 little chloride of lime, mixed with water, 
 and applied until the desired effect is 
 produced. It should be borne in mind 
 that all vegetable colors are utterly de- 
 stroyed beyond any restoration, by the 
 energetic action of this agent. 
 
 Paint, when soiled, is readily cleaned 
 by soap and water ; soda and pearlash 
 are frequently employed, but they act by 
 removing a portion of the paint, and if 
 not thoroughly washed off with clean 
 water afterwards, they will be found to 
 soften the whole. Caustic alkalies, such 
 as the solution for washing on the new 
 plan, will rapidly dissolve paint, and are 
 therefore inapplicable for cleaning; they 
 may, however, be usefully employed in 
 removing paint from wood, where such 
 an operation is requisite. 
 
 late may be cleaned by rouge, or if 
 this is not readily obtained, by washed 
 whiting ; this is readily made by stirring 
 some whiting up with water, then allow- 
 ing the larger particles and the grit to 
 subside, and pouring off the water charged 
 with the finer powder, which is allowed 
 to settle, and dried for use. When plate 
 is very much stained, it may be cleaned 
 with putty powder, but this preparation 
 would soon wear away the silver if used 
 frequently or unnecessarily. It may be 
 mentioned, that this substance is not 
 made from putty, as its name might seem 
 to imply, but is a rust or oxide of tin, 
 obtained by heating the metal. 
 
 Japanned Goods, such as tea-boards, 
 should not have boiling water poured 
 upon them, but should be washed with 
 warm water, and polished with a piece 
 of wash-leather and fine flour. 
 
 Knives. The common wooden knife- 
 
 board wears out the knives very rapidly, 
 it is therefore much better to employ a 
 piece of buff-leather to cover the board ; 
 for very superior cutlery emery powder 
 should be used instead of Bath-brick. 
 Whatever, the material of the board, it 
 will be rapidly spoiled by cleaning the 
 backs of knives upon the edge of the 
 board ; to prevent this evil, a small piece 
 of leather should be fixed on one end to 
 clean the backs upon. 
 
 Steel Forks are readily cleaned by 
 having a pot of damp moss or hay, with 
 some sand intermixed, into which they 
 may be repeatedly thrust. If knives or 
 forks get an unpleasant taint which can- 
 not be removed readily, they may be 
 plunged into the mould of the garden, 
 which has much absorptive power, and 
 rapidly removes such odors. 
 
 Bedsteads may be freed from vermin 
 by brushing them over in the cracks with 
 a mixture formed of one ounce of corro- 
 sive sublimate, dissolved in half a pint of 
 oil of turpentine, and the same quantity 
 of any spirit, such as strong gin or 
 whiskey ; this effectually prevents their 
 harboring. But when first applied, it 
 has a disagreeable odor from the tur- 
 pentine, and great care must be taken 
 with it, as it is excessively poisonous. It 
 has been found that the presence of the 
 odor of creosote has effectually driven 
 away these enemies to our nocturnal 
 peace. On the whole, constant and un- 
 remitting cleanliness, and the employ- 
 ment of iron bedsteads, which are now 
 manufactured of the most elegant forms, 
 are the best means of getting rid of these 
 pests. 
 
 We pass on to the important opera- 
 tions of disinfecting. Various means 
 have been proposed of lessening or utter* 
 ly destroying the infectious emanations 
 that proceed from persons in certain 
 diseases, and which frequently have the 
 power of attaching themselves with great- 
 er or less tenacity to articles of wearing 
 
90 
 
 THE PKACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 apparel, furniture, &c. Generally speak- 
 ing, a good system of ventilation is suffi- 
 cient to prevent infection. When rooms 
 are properly aired, a disease can seldom 
 be caught more than a few feet from the 
 patient ; or even in the case, of those 
 most infectious disorders, scarlet-fever, 
 and small-pox, it seldom spreads more 
 than a few yards; but if the air of a 
 room is confined, the infection is concen- 
 trated, and becomes much more certain in 
 its action. 
 
 Downy and fibrous materials readily 
 receive infection ; it may, in fact, in many 
 instances, be folded up in them, and so 
 retained almost any length of time ; but if 
 they are thoroughly exposed to a free cur- 
 rent of air, it is dissipated in a short time. 
 It should be mentioned, that infectious dis- 
 eases are more readily received in certain 
 states of the body ; thus,, fear, timidity, 
 mental anxiety, and such states of mind, 
 by lowering the general tone of the sys- 
 tem, render it much more liable to con- 
 tract infectious or contagious diseases; 
 a state of exhaustion from bodily fatigue, 
 or from hunger, has the same tendency. 
 Infection is also more readily received 
 through the lungs than through the skin ; 
 therefore, it is important never to re- 
 ceive the breath of a patient, and, as a 
 sailor would say, always to keep to the 
 windward side of him. Amongst the do- 
 mestic disinfectants, vinegar has a great 
 reputation, but undeservedly so ; its only 
 action is to overpower, by its odor, the 
 smell of a sick room as a destroyer of 
 the peculiar influences that engender dis- 
 ease, it has no power. Burning substances 
 act hi the same manner. Burnt brown 
 paper, fumigating pastiles, tobacco, only 
 act by substituting one smell for another. 
 The ridiculous practice of carrying about 
 a piece of camphor is very common, and 
 is perfectly inefficacious. If it has any 
 action at all, it must be an injurious one ; 
 for camphor is a stimulant, and its con- 
 stant inhalation must tend to lower the 
 
 system, and so produce the very evil it is 
 supposed to remedy. 
 
 The best means of preventing infection^ 
 are ventilation and cleanliness in every 
 particular. The best means of destroy- 
 ing it are those powerful chemical agents 
 which have the power of uniting with 
 the hydrogen which is supposed to form 
 part of the infectious substances. 
 
 The most powerful, easily controlled, 
 and in every sense the best disinfectant, 
 is chlorine gas. This agent at once des- 
 troys every trace of infection in all sub- 
 stances submitted to its action. Its for- 
 mation is perfectly under control, and 
 goes on in a gentle manner for da} T s to- 
 gether, without requiring care or attend- 
 ance. We consider that the slow libera- 
 tion of chlorine is far superior to the 
 employment of chloride of lime, which 
 gives forth the gas in a modified form. 
 
 In one case of a school where scarlet- 
 fever had returned after several attempts 
 at purification, chlorine effected the com- 
 plete removal of every trace of the dis- 
 ease. Various modes of liberating chlo- 
 rine are known to chemists ; but, for such 
 purposes as the present, where a slow, 
 uniform, and constant action is required, 
 there are none equal to the following 
 plan : One pound of common table-salt 
 is to be intimately mixed by stirring 
 with an equal weight of a substance call- 
 ed manganese, which may be readily ob- 
 tained from any good chemist. Small 
 portions of this mixture should be placed 
 in shallow pans (the saucers of common 
 flower-pots answer the purpose) ; and 
 upon them should be poured a mixture 
 of oil of vitriol (sulphuric acid) and wa- 
 ter, the quantity required for the above 
 weights, viz., for one pound of each in- 
 gredient, being two pounds of oil of vitriol 
 and one of water, both by weight. These 
 should have been previously mixed in a 
 wooden vessel, being stirred by a wooden 
 lath, and allowed to become cool before 
 being poured on the salt and manganese. 
 
DISINFECTING. FERMENTING. 
 
 91 
 
 as*he mixing of the acid and water gen- 
 erates great heat. Too much care can- 
 not be taken with the acid, as it is ex- 
 cessively corrosive in its nature, and 
 destroys most substances with which it 
 comes in contact. When these materials 
 are all mixed, chlorine is slowly evolved 
 for a period of three or four days, and in 
 so gentle a manner, that not the slightest 
 irritating or unpleasant effect is produced. 
 If it is wished to cause the more rapid 
 production of gas, the saucer may be 
 placed over a basin of boiling water, or 
 upon a hot brick ; but the slow genera- 
 tion for a considerable length of time is 
 what should be more especially aimed at. 
 It is needless to say, that all substances 
 supposed to have been contaminated, 
 should be spread out so as to receive the 
 influence of the gas ; the bed-linen, and 
 all woollen garments, being exposed by 
 being spread out on chairs, lines, &c. ; 
 the drawers and cupboards opened ; and 
 while the disinfecting is in actual opera- 
 tion, the windows and doors should be 
 kept shut, to prevent the dissipation of 
 the chlorine. It is found that two ounces 
 of manganese, with a proportionate quan- 
 tity of the other materials, is sufficient for 
 a room twenty feet wide, forty feet long, 
 and twelve feet high, which contains 20 
 X40xl2=9600 cubic feet. 
 
 It may be mentioned, that breathing 
 chlorine in this highly diluted state, is 
 not injurious to the general health ; al- 
 though, in a concentrated form, or unless 
 very much diluted with air, it is irrita- 
 ting in the highest degree. In the very 
 dilute state, it is occasionally prescribed 
 for the inhalation of consumptive patients. 
 
 For the satisfaction of those who rely 
 on the authority of a great name, it may 
 be stated, that chlorine used in the man- 
 ner here recommended, was employed by 
 one of the most illustrious of English 
 chemists, in the case of the Penitentiary, 
 when a violent and fatal disease broke 
 
 out there, and with complete success. 
 The operator in this case was FARADAY. 
 It may occasionally be found more 
 convenient to use another mixture for 
 the liberation of chlorine gas, in which 
 
 case the following may be employed : 
 
 One part of manganese is to be drenched 
 with four parts by weight of muriatic 
 acid (spirits of salts), mixed with one 
 part of water. The gas is evolved slowly 
 in the cold, and rapidly if assisted by a 
 gentle heat. This process is rather more 
 expensive, and possesses no advantage 
 over the one previously described. 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 FERMENTING AND DISTILLING. 
 
 IN ordinary language, the term fermen- 
 tation is employed to signify the peculiar 
 changes which take place when a solu- 
 tion of sugar, or any vegetable substance 
 containing saccharine matter, is converted 
 into spirit this, however, is only one of 
 many of such kinds of action, which are 
 well known to chemists. The most im- 
 portant fermentations are the saccharine 
 fermentation, when sugar is formed by a 
 change taking place in starch ; the vinous, 
 when spirit is formed from sugar; and 
 the acetous, in which vinegar or acetic 
 acid is formed from spirit. 
 
 The saccharine fermentation, or the 
 formation of sugar from starch, is inter- 
 esting, though it does not influence such 
 operations as are included in our Domes- 
 tic Manipulations. If starch is dissolved 
 in water, a little wheat flour added, and 
 the whole exposed to a moderately warm 
 temperature, it will be found that after a 
 few days, varying in number with the 
 degree of warmth, the starch has disap- 
 peared, and the liquid has become sweet 
 from the formation of sugar. The same 
 change takes place with much greater 
 
92 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 rapidity if starch is boiled with a solution 
 of malt, which contains an active princi 
 pie called diastase, capable of bringing 
 about this fermentation in a short time 
 The formation of sugar from starch is an 
 operation which constantly occurs in al 
 growing seeds, the effect being to change 
 ' an insoluble substance, such as starch 
 into one which is capable of being dis- 
 solved in the juices of the young plant 
 and nourishing it during the early stages of 
 its growth. In the operation of malting 
 barley, the change is induced artificially, 
 for the purpose of producing sugar in the 
 malt, which is afterwards made to 
 dergo the second kind of fermentation, 
 namely, the vinous, or that in which 
 spirit is produced. 
 
 When sugar, either that which natu- 
 rally exists, in many plants, or as formed 
 from starch as just mentioned, is dis- 
 solved in water, so as to form a moder- 
 ately weak solution, and the * whole ex- 
 posed to a degree of warmth varying 
 from seventy to eighty degrees, it rapidly 
 undergoes a remarkable change, provided 
 a small quantity of any vegetable fer- 
 ment is present such as yeast, or the 
 juice of the grape, or of many other fruits. 
 The sugar wholly disappears, and is re- 
 solved into two substances one a gas, 
 termed carbonic acid," which escapes, giv- 
 ing rise to a slow effervescence ; and the 
 other, a portion of spirit, which remains 
 in the liquid. This kind of fermentation 
 is much more difficult to prevent than to 
 establish ; in making syrups, it is found 
 especially annoying ; for if the quantity 
 of sugar used is too small, the syrup is 
 certain to ferment and spoil ; and if too 
 much is "added, it crystallizes cut hi the 
 solid form ; as a general rule, however, 
 it is found that two parts, by weight, of 
 sugar, to one part, by weight, of water, 
 or other liquid such as the juice of 
 fruits, made into a syrup by boiling for a 
 short time neither ferments nor crys- 
 tallizes. 
 
 In the act of fermentation the spirit 
 produced by the process last described is 
 changed into acetic acid, or vinegar. 
 Here, also, the presence of some sub- 
 stance capable of commencing the fer- 
 mentation is requisite, for pure spirit and 
 water will not undergo the change. The 
 ferment employed may be the vinegar- 
 plant or it may be a little vinegar, 
 which may have been previously formed. 
 
 For the rapid progress of the acetous 
 fermentation, a high temperature is re- 
 quisite even as great as about eighty- 
 six degrees and free exposure to air is 
 essential. The best vinegar is that made 
 from weak wine, at Orleans; the plan 
 followed is to introduce a portion of vine- 
 gar into the vessels, adding the wine at 
 intervals, and never quite emptying them. 
 In this country, a weak beer is brewed, 
 without hops, for the purpose of making 
 vinegar, and a small quantity of dilute 
 oil of vitriol is added, after the vinegar is 
 formed, to destroy the mouldiness that 
 is otherwise apt to be present. Vinegar 
 may be formed from any weak spirituous 
 iquid \ but it should be borne in mind 
 that two circumstances are essential to 
 success namely, a high summer tem- 
 Derature, either natural or artificial, and 
 ree exposure to air. 
 
 The process of distillation is one which 
 s used for separating liquids from each 
 other that boil at different degrees of 
 heat. In domestic economy, it is most 
 requently employed to obtain spirit, 
 more or less flavored, or scented, with 
 :ome volatile essential oil. The appara- 
 ,us commonly used is the Still, for boil- 
 ng the liquid to generate the vapor, and 
 a long spirally twisted tube termed the 
 worm, which is placed in a tub of cold 
 vater, and through which the steam 
 )asses to be condensed. The worm is 
 he most objectionable part of the mod- 
 rn still ; its great evil is the difficulty 
 with which it is cleaned, so as to prevent 
 ne strong-flavored substance spoiling 
 
DISTILLATION. 
 
 93 
 
 those which are distilled afterwards. I 
 the coils of the worm are not very nu 
 merous, a bullet, with a string attached 
 may be passed through it, and a sponge or 
 small bottle-brush, fastened to the string 
 may be worked backwards and forwards 
 but if there are several coils, it will be 
 found impossible to do this, from the re- 
 sistance caused by friction. In this case 
 the only plan is to close one end of the 
 
 Fig. 1. 
 
 worm with a cork, and fill it with a solu- 
 tion of caustic alkali, allowing it to re- 
 main for some hours, and repeating the 
 application with fresh liquid, if it be re- 
 quired. 
 
 In Germany, the worm is being super- 
 seded by an excellent condenser, which 
 is. so superior that we are induced to 
 give a sketch of it, hoping that it may 
 lead to its adoption in this country. The 
 vapors from the still pass into the tube 
 A (Fig 1), by which they are conducted 
 into B, a hollow globe, made to unscrew 
 at its centre. The vapors, passing along 
 the tubes 0. -are condensed, and the dis- 
 tilled liquid drops from D. The pipe E 
 should convey a constant stream of cold 
 water to the bottom of the tub, and this, 
 rising as it is warmed by abstracting heat 
 from the tubes and globe, should escape by 
 F. All the tubes being straight, it is 
 obvious that they can be readily cleaned 
 from their ends. 
 
 In the laboratory, distilling is most 
 frequently performed with vessels term- 
 
 ed retorts, or even from flasks; but as 
 these are not very applicable to domes- 
 tic purposes, we pass them over. 
 
 In cloirestic practice, the still is usual- 
 ly employed to" obtain son e water or 
 spirit flavored with essential oil, or the 
 oil itself, and the process should be 
 slight'y modified so as to suit each case. 
 The vegetable substance should not be 
 placed on the bottom of the still itself, as 
 in that case it might become burnt, and 
 so give an unpleasant flavor to the 
 whole; but a bottom of wicker-work 
 should be placed in the still in the first 
 instance for it to rest upon, or a perfora- 
 ted board. The substance to be distilled 
 should be placed in the still, covered with 
 water, for some hours before the fire is 
 lighted ; no more water being added than 
 ufficient to cover it, if the preparation of 
 oil is the object. 
 
 Herbs, for distilling, should be collect- 
 ed on a dry day, andunless the oil re- 
 sides in the seeds, as in the case of cara- 
 way, anise, &c., or in the flowers, as in 
 the rose, lavender, &c. just before the 
 flowers have opened, as at that period 
 there is the greatest quantity of essential 
 oil in the plant. All plants cultivated 
 for distillation, should be grown in a 
 situation where they can receive a full 
 amount of sun-light, as shade or darkness 
 very much tends to prevent the formation 
 of essential oil. 
 
 The liquid which comes out of the 
 worm, is a mixture of water highly fla- 
 vored with the substance, and some un- 
 dissolved oil this latter is sometimes 
 heavier and sometimes lighter 
 M than water, either sinking or 
 [.fj floating ; in the latter c"ase the 
 oil may be readily separated by 
 filling a bottle with the mix- 
 ture, and when the oil has col- 
 lected at the top. carrying it 
 1 off by a few threads of cotton 
 Fig - 2 - placed as in the figure (fig. 2) 
 
THE PRACTICAL HOTJSEKEEPEK. 
 
 taking care that they are moistened with 
 oil before arranging them; the cotton 
 acts as a syphon, and removes the whole 
 of the oil. If the object of the operation 
 is to obtain the oil and not the distilled 
 water, the latter should be preserved, 
 and used again and again with fresh 
 herbs, because having in the first opera- 
 tion dissolved as much oil as it is capa- 
 ble of doing, it causes no loss in the sub- 
 sequent distillations. 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 LAYING OUT TABLES AND FOLDING 
 
 NAPKINS. 
 
 THE art of laying out a table, whether 
 for breakfast, luncheon, dinner, tea or 
 supper, consists in arranging the various 
 dishes, plate, glass, &c., methodically, and 
 adhering to the rules we are about to 
 make known. 
 
 Much trouble, irregularity, and con- 
 fusion will be avoided in a house when 
 there is company, if servants are instruct- 
 ed to prepare the table, sideboard, or 
 dinner-wagon, in a similar manner and 
 order daily. 
 
 All tables are usually laid out accord- 
 ing to the following rules, yet there are 
 local peculiarities which will necessarily 
 present themselves, and should be adopt- 
 ed or rejected, as may appear proper to 
 the good housewife : 
 
 BREAKFASTS. The table should be 
 covered with a clean white cloth; the 
 cups and saucers arranged at one end, on 
 a tray if desirable ; or the coffee-cups 
 and saucers may be arranged at the 
 right-hand side of one end of the table, 
 and the tea-cups and saucers at the left : 
 the tea-pot and coffee-pot occupying the 
 space between in front, and the urn that 
 at the back. Some persons substitute 
 
 cocoa or chocolate for coffee, in which 
 case they are to be placed the same. The 
 slop-basin and milk-pitcher should be 
 placed to the left ; and the cream, and 
 hot milk-pitchers, with the sugar basin, 
 to the right. 
 
 The remainder of the table should be 
 occupied in the centre by the various 
 dishes to be partaken of ; while at the 
 sides must be ranged a large plate for 
 meat, eggs, &c., and a small one for toast, 
 rolls, &c., with a small knife and fork for 
 each person ; the carving knife and fork 
 being placed point to handle ; the butter 
 and bread knives to the right of their 
 respective dishes, which occupy the cen- 
 tre part, and spoons in front of the hot 
 dishes with gravy. Salt-cellars should 
 occupy the four corners, and, if required, 
 the cruets should be placed in the centre 
 of the table. 
 
 Dry toast should never be prepared 
 longer than five minutes before serving, 
 as it becomes tough, and the buttered, 
 soppy and greasy, if too long prepared. 
 Hot rolls should be brought to table 
 covered with a napkin. 
 
 Every dish should be garnished appro- 
 priately, either with sippets, ornamental 
 butter, water-cresses, parsley, or some 
 one of the garnishes we shall point out 
 in a future page. 
 
 The dishes usually set upon the table 
 are selected from hot, cold, and cured 
 meats ; hot, cold, cured, and potted fish ; 
 game; poultry, cold or devilled; fruit, 
 ripe, preserved, or candied ; dressed and 
 undressed vegetables ; meat-pies and 
 patties, cold ; eggs ; honey-comb ; and 
 savory morsels as grilled kidneys, 
 aam-toast, devils, &c. 
 
 Dejeuners a la fourcJiette are laid the 
 same as suppers, except that tea and 
 coffee are introduced; but in sporting 
 circles not until the solids are removed. 
 
 When laid for a marriage or christen- 
 ng breakfast, a bride's or christening cake 
 
LAYING THE TABLE. NAPKINS. 
 
 should occupy the centre instead of the 
 epergne or plateau. 
 
 LUNCHEONS, OR KOONINGS. The lun- 
 cheon is laid in two ways ; one waj r is to 
 bring in a butler's tray with let-down 
 sides, on which it is previously arranged 
 upon a tray cloth, and letting down the 
 sides and spreading the cloth upon the 
 dining table, to distribute the things as 
 required. The other is to lay the cloth 
 as for dinner, with the pickle-stand and 
 cruets opposite each other ; and, if in 
 season, a small vase of flowers in the cen- 
 tre ; if not, a water-pitcher and tumblers, 
 which may be placed on a side-table at 
 other times. The sides of the table are 
 occupied by the requisites for each guest, 
 viz., two plates, a large and small fork 
 and knives, and dessert-spoon. A folded 
 napkin, and the bread under, is placed 
 upon the plate of each guest. 
 
 Carafes, with the tumblers belonging 
 to and placed over them, are laid at 
 the four corners, with the salt-cellars in 
 front of them, between two table-spoons 
 laid bowl to handle. 
 
 If French or light wines are served, 
 they may be placed in the original bot- 
 tles in ornamental wine vases, between 
 the top and bottom dishes and the vase 
 of flowers, with the corks drawn and 
 partially replaced. 
 
 The dishes generally served for lun- 
 cheons are the remains of cold meat 
 neatly trimmed and garnished : cold game 
 hashed or plain ; hashes of all de- 
 scriptions ; curries ; minced meats ; cold 
 pies, savory, fruit, or plain ; plainly 
 cooked cutlets, steaks, and chops; ome- 
 lettes ; bacon ; eggs ; devils and grilled 
 bones ; potatoes ; sweetmeats ; butter ; 
 cheese ; salad and pickles. In fact al- 
 most anything does for lunch, whether 
 of fish, flesh, fowl, pastry, vegetables, or 
 fruit. 
 
 Ale and porter are generally served, 
 but occasionally sherry, marsalla. port, 
 
 or home-made wines, are introduced, 
 with biscuit and ripe fruit. 
 
 A good housewife should always have 
 something in the house ready to convert 
 into a neat little luncheon, in case a few 
 friends drop in, and it is astonishing 
 how a really nice looking affair may be 
 made out of the remains of the dinner 
 served the day before: some glass, a 
 sprinkle of plate, a few flowers, some 
 good ale, or a little wine, and above all, 
 a hearty welcome. 
 
 NAPKINS. Dinner napkins should be 
 about twenty-eight inches broad, and 
 thirty inches long. They may be folded 
 in a variety of wa}s, which impart a 
 style to a table, without adding much to 
 the expense, and may be readily accom- 
 plished with a little practice and atten- 
 tion to the following directions and dia- 
 grams. 
 
 1. THE MITRE. {Fig. ].) 
 
 Fold the napkin into three parts 
 longways, then turn down the right-hand 
 corner, and turn up the left-hand one. as 
 in Fig. 2, A and B. Turn back the 
 point A towards the right, so that it 
 shall lie behind C ; and B to the left, 
 so as to be behind D. Double the nap- 
 kin back at the line E, then turn up F 
 from before and G from behind, when 
 they will appear as in Fig 3. Bend the 
 corner H towards the right, and tuck it 
 behind I, and turn back the corner K to- 
 wards the left, at the dotted line, and 
 tuck it into a corresponding part at the 
 back. The bread is placed under the 
 mitre, or in the centre at the top. 
 
 2. THE EXQUISITE. (Fig. 4.) 
 Fold the napkin into three parts long- 
 ways, then fold down two-fifths of the 
 length from each side, as in Fig. 5, at A ; 
 roll up the part B towards the back, re- 
 peat on the other side, then turn up the 
 corner towards the corner A. and it will 
 appear as D. The centre part E is now 
 
96 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 to be turned up at the bottom, and down 
 at the top, and the two rolls brought 
 under the centre piece, as in Fig. 4. The 
 bread is placed under the centre band, K, 
 Fig. 4. 
 
 3. THE COLLEGIAN. (Fig. 6.) 
 
 Fold the napkin into three parts long- 
 ways, then turn down the two sides to- 
 wards you. so that they shall appear as 
 in Fig. 7 .; then roll up the part A under- 
 neath until it looks like B, Fig. 8. Now 
 take the corner B and turn it up towards 
 C, so that the edge of the rolled part 
 shall be even with the central line ; re- 
 peat the same on the other side, and turn 
 the whole over, when it will appear as 
 in Fig. 6. The bread is placed under- 
 neath the part K. 
 
 4. THE CINDERELLA. (Fig. 9.) 
 
 Fold the napkin into three parts long- 
 ways, then turn down the two sides as 
 in Fig. 7 ; turn the napkin over, and roll 
 up the lower part as in Fig. 10, A, B. 
 Now turn the corner B upwards towards 
 C, so that it shall appear as in D ; re- 
 peat on the other side, and then bring 
 the two parts E together so that they 
 shall bend at the dotted line j and the 
 appearance will now be as Fig. 9. The 
 bread is placed under the apron part, K, 
 
 Fig. 9. 
 
 i 
 
 5. THE FLIRT. (Fig. 11.) 
 
 Fold the napkin into three parts long- 
 ways, then fold across the breadth, com- 
 mencing at one extremity, and continu- 
 ing to fold from and to yourself in folds 
 about two inches broad, until the whole 
 is done ; then place in a tumbler, and it 
 will appear as in the illustration. 
 
 C. THE NEAPOLITAN. (Fig. 12.) 
 
 Fold the napkin into three parts long- 
 ways, then fold one of the upper parts 
 upon itself from you ; turn over the cloth 
 with the part having four folds from you, 
 
 and fold down the two sides so as to ap- 
 pear as in Fig. 7 ; then roll up the part 
 A underneath, until it appears as in the 
 dotted lines in Fig. 13, at B. Now turn 
 up the corner B towards C, so that the 
 edge of the rolled part shall be even 
 with the central line: repeat the same 
 upon the opposite side, and turn the 
 whole over, when it will appear as in 
 Fig..l2: the bread being placed under- 
 neath the part K, as represented in the 
 illustration. 
 
 7. THE " FAVORITE^' OR OUR OWN. 
 
 (Fig. 14.) 
 
 Fold the napkin into three parts long- 
 ways, then turn down the two edges as 
 in Fig. 7, and roll up the part A on both 
 sides, until as represented on the right- 
 hand side in Fig. 14; then turn it back- 
 wards (as A B) on both sides ; now fold 
 down the point C towards you, turn over 
 the napkin, and fold the two other parts 
 from you so that they shall appear as in 
 Fig. 15. Turn the napkin over, thus 
 folded, and raising the .centre part with 
 the two thumbs, draw the two ends (A 
 and B) together, and pull out the parts 
 (C and D) until they appear as in Fig. 
 14. The bread is to be placed as repre- 
 sented in K 3 Fig. 14. 
 
 DINNERS. 
 
 Dinners. The appearance a dinner- 
 table presents does not depend so much 
 upon a profuseness of viands, as upon 
 the neatness, cleanliness, and well-studied 
 arrangement of the whole. Taste, if 
 well directed, may produce a handsome 
 dinner ; whereas three times the amount 
 of money rr.ay be expended upon another, 
 and yet not make even a respectable ap- 
 pearance. 
 
 We cannot too strongly urge the ne- 
 cessity of having things done in the same 
 manner every day as when there is. com- 
 pany. The servants become accustomed 
 
FOLDING NAPKINS. 
 
 97 
 
 Jiff. 
 
 Jig.*, 
 o 
 
 Jig. IB. 
 
98 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 to waiting properly, things are always 
 at hand, and they do not appear awk- 
 ward when visitors drop in ; then every 
 thing is regular, and goes on smoothly. 
 
 To Lay the Cloth. The table should 
 he well polished, and then covered with 
 a cloth, over which a fine white damask 
 one should be spread. If the white cloth 
 is to be kept on after dinner, it is cus- 
 tomary to spread a small cloth at either 
 end of the table where the large dishes 
 are placed, to protect the long cloth from 
 accidental spots arising from gravy, &c. ; 
 these slips are removed after dinner, and 
 the cloth cleaned with crumVbrushes. 
 In some houses an entire upper cloth is 
 placed upon the table instead of slips, 
 and this being removed after dinner, does 
 not require the tedious process of brush- 
 Ing the table-cloth. 
 
 When the cloth has been spread, place 
 carafes, with the tumblers belonging to 
 and placed over them, between every 
 four persons, a salt-cellar between every 
 third person, and a large and small knife, 
 fork, and spoon, to each guest, with two 
 wine-glasses, a champagne-glass, and a 
 tumbler, to the right of each, and the 
 bread placed in or under folded napkins 
 between the knives, forks, and spoons ; 
 and at large entertainments or public 
 dinners, the name of each guest neatly 
 
 written on a card in front of the napkin, so 
 as to prevent confusion. The centre or- 
 nament, usually a candelabrum, plateau, 
 an epergne, or a vase of artificial flowers, 
 must now be set on, and the mats for the 
 various dishes arranged ; then the wine- 
 coolers or ornamental vases placed be- 
 tween the centre piece and the top and 
 bottom dishes, with the wines in the 
 original bottles, loosely corked ; the 
 spoons for helping the various dishes, 
 asparagus tongs, fish knife and fork or 
 slice, and carving knives and forks, are 
 placed in front of the respective dishes 
 to which they belong; and knife-rests 
 opposite to those who have to carve ; 
 with a bill of fare, and a pile of soup- 
 plates before those that have to help 
 the soup. 
 
 In arranging or laying out a table, 
 several things require particular atten- 
 tion, and especially the following : 
 
 Plate should be well cleaned, and have 
 a bright polish ; few things look worse 
 than to see a greasy -looking epergne and 
 streaky spoons. Glass should be well 
 rubbed with a wash-leather, dipped in a 
 solution of fine whiting and stone-blue, 
 and then dried ; afterwards it should be 
 polished with an old silk handkerchief. 
 Plates and dishes should be hot, other- 
 wise the guests will be disgusted by see- 
 ing flakes of fat floating about in the 
 gravy. Bread should be cut in pieces 
 about an inch thick, and each round of a 
 loaf into six parts, or if for a dinner 
 party, dinner rolls should be ordered. 
 The bread is placed under the napkins, 
 or on the left of each guest, if dinner 
 napkins are not used ; some of the bread 
 being placed in a bread-tray covered with 
 a crochet cloth upon the sideboard. 
 Lights, either at or after the dinner, 
 should be subdued, and above the guests, 
 if possible, so as to be shed upon the 
 table, without intercepting the view, 
 Sauces, either bottle, sweet, or boat 
 vegetables, and sliced cucumber, or glazed 
 
THE DINNER. 
 
 99 
 
 onions for stubble goose, should be placed 
 upon the sideboard; a plate basket for 
 removing the soiled plates is usually 
 placed under the sideboard, or some other 
 convenient part of the room ; and two 
 knife-trays^ covered with napkins, are 
 placed upon a butler's tray; these are 
 used for removing soiled carvers and 
 forks, and the soiled silver. Ifc is useful 
 to have a large-sized brad-awl, a cork- 
 screw, and funnel, with strainer; the 
 former to break the wire of the cham- 
 pagne bottles, and the latter to strain 
 port wine, if required to be opened dur- 
 ing dinner. 
 
 To lay out thp sideboard or tray. Lit- 
 tle requires to be done, except to arrange 
 
 the silver, knives, 
 
 cruets, and various 
 
 dishes to be placed there. The silver 
 should be arranged on one end of the 
 sideboard, as m Figs. 1 and 2, the gravy 
 spoons being placed bowl to handle, and 
 the cheese-scoop, marrow-spoon, and salad 
 spoons or scissors, where most conven- 
 ient. The knives are placed as in Fig. 3, 
 for the convenience of removal, because 
 by this means a single knife can be ab- 
 
 Figs. l <fe 2. 
 Ktracted without disturbing the others ; 
 
 Figs. 3 <fe 4 
 carving knives and forks should be placed 
 
 above the others, point to handle. The 
 wine-glasses, tumblers, and finger-glasses, 
 for dessert, are placed where most con- 
 venient, but usually in the centre of the 
 back, with ice-plates near to them, and 
 the wine-glasses placed in the finger- 
 glasses, as in Fig. 4= ; but when only one 
 glass is used, that is placed in the centre, 
 mouth downwards. At very large or 
 fashionable dinners, the finger-glasses 
 are sometimes placed on the dinner-table 
 with the plain and colored wine-glasses 
 in them, and the same, refilled, are placed 
 on again at dessert. The cruets, sauces, 
 &c., are placed at one end, and the vege- 
 tables, &c., in the centre front of the side- 
 board. 
 
 To place the dishes on the table. Each 
 servant should be provided, at large din- 
 ders, with a bill of fare, and instructed at 
 small ones, where the dishes are to be 
 placed. No two dishes resembling each 
 other should be near the same part of 
 the table. Soups or broth should always 
 be placed at the head of the table ; if 
 there are two, top and bottom; if four, 
 top, bottom, and two sides, opposite each 
 other, or alternately with fish. Fish 
 should be placed at the head of the table ; 
 if there are two sorts, have fried at the 
 bottom and boiled at the top ; if four, 
 arrange the same as the soup. We may 
 observe, that a white and a brown, or a 
 mild and a high- seasoned soup, should 
 occupy either side of the centre piece, 
 and that it looks handsomer to have fried 
 and boiled fish opposite each other, but 
 they should never be placed upon the 
 same dish. Fish is generally served up- 
 on a napkin, the corners of which are 
 either turned in or thrown over the fish, 
 or upon a piece of simple netting, which 
 is turned in all round ; but we recommend 
 our readers to use the elegant serviette, 
 as being more stylish. 
 
 The first course generally consists of 
 soups and fish, which are removed by the 
 roasts, stews, &c., of the second course. 
 
100 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 The second course, when there are three, 
 consists of roasts and stews for the top 
 and bottom ; turkey or fowls, ham gar- 
 nished, tongue, or fricandeau, for the 
 sides ; with small made dishes for corners, 
 served in covered dishes, as curries, ra- 
 gouts, fricassees, stews, &c. 
 
 When there are two roasts, one should 
 be white, and the other brown. Removes 
 are generally placed upon large dishes, 
 for, as they supply the place of the fish 
 and soups, they constitute the princi- 
 pal part of the dinner. What are termed 
 flancs are not so large as the removes, 
 nor so small as the entrees, or made dish- 
 es, and are generally served in a different- 
 ly formed dish. They are seldom used 
 except when there are eighteen or twen- 
 ty persons. 
 
 Entrees, or made dishes, require great 
 care in placing them upon the table, other- 
 wise the gravy slops over and soils the 
 dish ; they are, therefore, usually served 
 with a wall of mashed potatoes, rice, or 
 other vegetables, to keep them in their 
 proper place. They should also be served 
 as hot as possible. 
 
 When there is but one principal dish, 
 it should be placed at the head of the ta- 
 ble. If three dishes, the principal to the 
 head, and the others opposite each other, 
 near the bottom ; if four, the largest to 
 the head, the next size to the foot, and 
 the other two at the sides ; if five, place 
 the same as for four, with the smallest in 
 the centre ; if six^ place the same as for 
 four, with two small dishes on each side ; 
 if seven, put three dishes down the cen- 
 tre of the table, and two on each side ; if 
 eight, four dishes down the middle, and 
 two on each side, at equal distances ; if 
 nine, place them in three equal lines, but 
 with the proper dishes at the top and 
 bottom'of the table ; if ten, put four down 
 the centre, one at each corner, and one 
 on each side, opposite the vacancy be- 
 tween the two central dishes; or four 
 down the middle and three on each side, 
 
 opposite the vacancies of the centre dish- 
 es ; if twelve, place them in three rows 
 of four each, or six down the middle, and 
 three at equal distances on each side. If 
 more than twelve, they must be arranged 
 dn the same principles, but varying ac- 
 cording to number. 
 
 Oval or circular dining-tables require 
 to have the dishes arranged in a shape 
 corresponding to the table. 
 
 The third course consists of game, deli- 
 cate vegetables, dressed in the French 
 style, then puddings, creams, jellies, &c. 
 
 When there are only two courses, the 
 first generally consists of soups and 
 fish, removed by boiled poultry, ham, 
 tongue, stews, roasts, ragouts, curries, or 
 made dishes generally, with vegetables. 
 The second consists of roasted poultry or 
 game at the top and bottom, with dressed 
 vegetables, maccaroni, &c., succeeded by 
 jellies, creams, preserved fruit, pastry and 
 general confectionery. It is generalty con- 
 trived to give as great a variety as possi- 
 ble in these dinners: thus a jelly, a 
 cream, a comp6te, an ornamental cake; a 
 dish of preserved fruit, fritters, a blanc- 
 mange, a pudding, &c. 
 
 Salads and celery are usually served 
 before the puddings and pastry are in- 
 troduced. In Great Britain, after the 
 third course, cheese, ornamented butter, 
 salad, radishes, celery in a glass bowl or 
 on a dish, sliced cucumber (and at small 
 parties, marrow-bones), are served. A 
 marrow-spoon, cheese-scoop, and butter- 
 knife, being required upon the table, are 
 to be placed near the dishes, a knife 
 and fork near the celery, and a pair of 
 salad-scissors or a fork and spoon in the 
 bowl with the salad. 
 
 The cheese may be served in a glass 
 bowl, and handed round from right to 
 left; or surrounded with the elegant 
 serviette, and placed upon the cheese- 
 cloth. The bread may be served as 
 usual, piled up on a crochet cloth in a 
 plated bread-basket placed in the centre. 
 
ATTENDANCE AT TABLE. 
 
 101 
 
 Waiting at Table. Much confusion is 
 avoided by having an attendant upon 
 each side of the table ; or, if the party is 
 large, more than one, according to the 
 number. The usual number required 
 for parties is given below ; and if the in- 
 come admit of it, the scale may be in- 
 creased according to the second column, 
 which will materially add to the comfort 
 of the guests. 
 
 Guests. 
 
 12 
 15 
 20 
 30 
 40 
 
 Servants. 
 . 1 2 
 
 2 3 
 
 3 4 
 
 4 6 
 6 8 
 9 12 
 
 50 12 20 &c. 
 
 Every attendant should be neatly attired, 
 have a white neckcloth and white gloves 
 on, should know where all the articles 
 reqired are, where the cashes are to be 
 placed, and, in fact, be acquainted with 
 the whole routine of 'the party; and 
 therefore it is better to provide each one 
 with a bill of fare. 
 
 When every guest is seated, a servant 
 appointed for that purpose should stand 
 by the side of each dish, with the right 
 hand upon the cover; and as soon as 
 grace is said, the cover is to be removed, 
 and placed in some convenient part of the 
 room. The plates for soup should then 
 be taken singly from the pile opposite 
 the person serving it, and carried to those 
 guests who desire that particular soup, 
 observing that ladies are to be attended 
 to before gentlemen, and that these 
 should commence from the head of the 
 table, continuing until both sides are 
 helped. 
 
 Soon after the soup has been served, 
 the servants may pass down each side of 
 the table, and ask each guest what they 
 will take, helping them to the dish de- 
 sired as soon as it can be procured. 
 When champagne is given, it is handed 
 7 
 
 round upon a waiter or salver at small 
 parties, commencing at the right-hand 
 side of the table from the top and bottom 
 simultaneously, without any distinction 
 as regards ladies or gentlemen. In large 
 parties and we prefer the arrangement 
 ourselves even in small ones the bottle 
 being enveloped as far as the neck with 
 a clean dinner-napkin, the wine is helped 
 in the same order as before; but in- 
 stead of being handed round on a salver, 
 the servants pour the wine into the glass, 
 at the right-hand side of each guest. By 
 these means there is less danger of the 
 glasses being broken by any awkward 
 collision. The champagne is generally 
 iced in summer, and cool in winter, and 
 is served as soon as the soup is finished, 
 or just after the guests have been helped 
 to the second course of removes. 
 
 Liqueurs are handed round when sweets 
 are on the table. Sauces are handed 
 round in the sauce-boat, and when served 
 placed on the side-board or dinner 
 
 J 
 
 wagon ; if only a family party, they are 
 
102 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOTTSEKEEPEK. 
 
 returned to the table. Sweet sauces are 
 handed round in glass dishes, and bottle 
 sauces in a stand or basket made for that 
 purpose. 
 
 In removing the dinner things, one 
 servant goes round the table with a 
 butler's tray, and the other removes and 
 places the things upon it. The cloth is 
 then brushed with a crumb-brush; or 
 the two sides are turned in, and then the 
 cloth dexterously jerked off the table, 
 the lights replaced, and the dessert set 
 on. 
 
 When knives, forks, and spoons are re- 
 moved from dishes or plates, they should 
 be placed in proper trays covered with 
 napkins ; one being used for the silver, the 
 other for the steel articles. 
 
 When plates or dishes are removed from 
 the table, great care is to be observed 
 with respect to holding them horizontally, 
 otherwise the gravy, syrup, or liquid, 
 may injure the dresses of the guests. 
 
 In some circles, the fashion prevails of 
 placing finger-glasses on table imme- 
 diately preceding dessert ; but in others, 
 cut-glass bowls, partially filled with rose 
 or orange flower water, iced in summer 
 and lukewarm in winter, are handed down 
 each side of the table, upon salvers ; into 
 these the guest dips the corner of the 
 dinner napkin, and just touches the lips 
 and the tips of the fingers. 
 
 DESSERTS, TEAS, AND SUPPERS. 
 
 THE DESSERT. The dessert may con- 
 sist of merely two dishes of fruit for the 
 top and bottom; dried fruits, biscuits, 
 filberts, &c., for the sides and corners ; 
 and & cake for the centre. 
 
 When the party is large, and ices are 
 served, the ice- plates are placed round 
 the table, the ice-pails at both ends of 
 the table, and dishes with wafer-biscuits, 
 at the sides. Some persons have the ices 
 served in glass dishes, which, together with 
 the wafer biscuits, are handed round be 1 
 fore the usual dessert. 
 
 When there is preserved ginger, it 
 follows the ices, as it serves to stimulate 
 the palate, so that the delicious coolness 
 of the wines may be better appreciated. 
 
 The side and corner dishes usually put 
 on for dessert, consist of : Competes 
 in glass dishes ; frosted fruit served on 
 lace-paper, in small glass dishes ; pre- 
 served and dried fruits, in glass dishes ; 
 biscuits, plain and fancy; fresh fruit, 
 served in dishes surrounded with leaves 
 or moss ; olives, wafer biscuits, brandy- 
 scrolls, &c. 
 
 The centre dish may consist either 
 of a savoy or an ornamental cake, on an 
 elevated stand a group of waxen fruit, 
 surrounded with moss a melon a pine 
 apple grapes or a vase of flowers. 
 
 Each plate should contain a knife, fork, 
 and spoon, with two wine-glasses, ar- 
 ranged upon a d'oyley, as in Fig. 5. 
 These are to be placed before each guest, 
 and a finger-glass, with cold water in 
 
 Fig. 5. 
 
 summer, andluke-warm water in "winter, 
 on the right of each plate ; with grape- 
 scissors, and melon knife and fork, before 
 their respective dishes. Glass bowls 
 containing sifted sugar, with pierced 
 ladles, or others filled with cream, are to 
 be placed near the centre dish, if they 
 are required. A cut glass pitcher with 
 tumbler on either side should be 
 
SUPPERS. TRUSSING. 
 
 103 
 
 placed in a convenient part of the centre 
 of the table. 
 
 The wine, either cooled or not, should 
 be placed at both ends of the table, or at 
 the bottom, if only a small party, the 
 decanters being placed in castors, 
 though this fashion is now nearly abol- 
 ished. 
 
 Zests are put down after the dessert is 
 removed, and consist chiefly of anchovy 
 toasts, devilled poultry and game, and 
 biscuits, gravy toast, grills, &c. 
 
 Coffee is the last thing served, and is 
 generally handed round upon a salver ; 
 after this, the gentlemen withdraw to the 
 drawing-r&om. 
 
 Tea. After a dinner party, the tea is 
 generally handed round by two servants, 
 the one having tea and coffee, with hot 
 milk, cream, and sugar upon one tray; 
 the other having thinly cut and rolled 
 bread and butter, biscuits and cake, upon 
 another tray. . 
 
 If served at an evening party or dance, 
 a servant helps the guests to tea or cof- 
 fee, which is arranged upon a side-table 
 in a small room. The tea and coffee oc- 
 cupy the two ends of the table, on either 
 side of the urn, which is placed in the 
 centre and back. In front of the urn 
 are ranged the sugar-candy for coffee, 
 sugar, hot milk, cream, bread and butter, 
 cake, and biscuits. 
 
 Tea, when only for a small party, may 
 be brought in upon a tray, the tea and 
 coffee-pots occupying the centre of the 
 tray; the cups and saucers the front; 
 and the hot milk, cream, slop-basin, and 
 sugar, the ends. The urn is placed at 
 the back of the tray ; and the bread and 
 butter, cut or not, with cake, biscuits, 
 muffins, crumpets, or toast, at the sides. 
 
 Suppers. The great secret of laying 
 out a supper consists in arranging the 
 china, glass, silver, linen, lights, confec- 
 tionery, substantials, trifles, flowers, and 
 other articles, with a due regard to form, 
 color, size, and material. 
 
 A supper table should neither be too 
 much crowded, nor too scanty, nor scat- 
 tered and broken up with small dishes. 
 Two dishes of the same description 
 should not be placed near each other: 
 dishes should not be heaped up as if for 
 a ploughman's repast, but contain suffi- 
 cient to make them look well, without 
 being over or under-done as regards 
 quantity. 
 
 Hot suppers are now seldom served ; 
 for people dine later than they did for- 
 merly ; and besides being more expen- 
 sive than cold ones, they also give more 
 trouble. 
 
 The centre of the table is generally oc- 
 cupied by an 6pergne, vase of flowers, 
 globe of fish upon an elevated stand, a 
 plateau, or small fountain ; around which 
 are arranged : Dried, preserved, frosted, 
 or candied fruits ; custards, jellies, and 
 trifles, in glasses ; and small biscuits. 
 The top and bottom of the table are fur- 
 nished with game, fowls, or meat; the 
 sides have dishes of ham sliced ; tongue ; 
 collared, potted, hung, and grated beef; 
 brawn, mock or real ; savory pies ; lob- 
 sters ; oysters ; dressed crab or cray-fish ; 
 prawn pyramids ; sandwiches of ham, 
 beef, tongue, anchovy, or other savory 
 morsels ; tarts, tartlets ; cake, biscuits ; 
 whipped and other creams ; jellies, blanc- 
 mange ; caramel baskets j patties, &c. 
 
 CHAPTER 
 
 TRUSSING AND OAEVING. 
 
 Poultry. The feathers must be pluck- 
 ed as soon as possible after killing and 
 the down singed off with lighted paper, 
 the crop emptied by a slit cut in the back 
 of the neck, the vent opened to clean out 
 the entrails, the gall-bag carefully remov- 
 ed, and the liver and gizzard cleansed in 
 cold water. The necks are to be cut off 
 close to the body, the skin being pushed 
 
104 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 up above the part where it is cut, and 
 afterwards drawn down and wrapped 
 over the end of the neck. Before fasten- 
 ing it down, pour cold water through the 
 body of the fowl. The back-bone and 
 two bones leading to the pinions may be 
 broken, and then the bird is to be trussed. 
 
 Carving. The carving-knife for poul- 
 try and game is smaller and lighter than 
 that for meat ; the point is more peaked, 
 and the handle longer. 
 
 In cutting up wild-fowl, duck, goose, 
 or turkey, more prime pieces may be ob- 
 tained by carving slices from pinion to 
 pinion without making wings, which is 
 a material advantage in distributing the 
 bird when the party is large. 
 
 To Truss a Goose. Pick and stub it 
 clean, cut the feet off at the joint, and 
 the pinion off at the first joint. Then 
 cut off the neck close to the back, leav- 
 ing the skin of the neck long enough to 
 turn over the back. Pull out the throat, 
 and tie a knot at the end. Loosen the 
 liver and other matters at the breast end 
 with the middle finger, and cut it open 
 between the vent and the rump. Draw 
 out the entrails, wipe the body out clean 
 with a cloth, beat the breast-bone flat 
 with a rolling pin, put a skewer into the 
 wing, and draw the legs up close ; put 
 the skewer through the middle of the 
 leg, and through the body, and the same 
 on the other side. Put another skewer 
 in the small of the leg, tuck it close 
 down to the sidesman, run it through, 
 and do the same on the other side. Cut 
 off the end of the vent, and make a hole 
 large enough for the passage of the rump, 
 as by that means it will keep in the sea- 
 soning much better. The best parts are 
 the breast slices ; the fleshy part of the 
 wing, which may be divided from the 
 pinion; the thigh-bone, which may be 
 easily divided in the joint from the leg- 
 bone ; the pinion ; and next, the side- 
 bones. The rump is a nice piece to those 
 
 who like it ; and the carcass is preferred 
 by some to other parts. 
 
 To Truss a Turley. When the bird is 
 picked carefully, break the leg bone close 
 to the foot, hang on a hook, and draw out 
 the strings from the thigh ; cut the neck 
 close off to the back, taking care to leave 
 the crop-skin long enough to turn over 
 the back. Remove the crop, and loosen 
 the liver and gut at the throat end with 
 the middle finger. Cut off the vent, re- 
 move the gut, pull out the gizzard with 
 a crooked wire, and the liver will soon 
 follow ; but be careful not to break the 
 gall. Wipe the inside perfectly clean 
 with a wet cloth, then cut the breast-bone 
 through on each side close to the back, 
 and draw the legs close to the crop, then 
 put a cloth on the breast, and beat the 
 thigh bone down with a rolling-pin till it 
 lies flat. 
 
 If the turkey is to be- trussed for foil- 
 ing , cut the first joint of the legs off; 
 pass the middle finger into the in- 
 side, raise the skin of the legs and put 
 them under the apron of the bird. Put 
 a skewer into the joint of the wing and 
 the middle joint of the leg, and run it 
 through the body and the other leg and 
 wing. The liver and gizzard must be 
 put in the pinions, care being taken to 
 open and previously remove the contents 
 of the latter ; the gall bladder must also 
 be detached from the liver. Then turn 
 the small end of the pinion on the back, 
 and tie a packthread over the ends of the 
 legs to keep them in their places. 
 
 If the turkey is to be roasted, leave 
 the legs on, put a skewer in the joint of 
 the wing, tuck the legs close up, and put 
 the skewer through the middle of the 
 legs and body ; on the other side put an- 
 other skewer in at the small part of the 
 I6g. Put it close on the outside of the 
 sidesman, and push the skewer through, 
 and the same on the other side. Put the 
 liver and gizzard between the pinions, 
 
TRUSSING. 
 
 105 
 
 and turn the point of the pinion on the 
 back. Then put, close above the pinions, 
 another skewer through the body of the 
 bird. 
 
 To Truss Fowls. Fowls must be picked 
 very clean, and the neck cut off close to 
 the back. Take out the crop, and, with the 
 middle finger, loosen the liver and other 
 parts. Cut off the vent, draw it clean, 
 and beat the breast-bone flat with a roll- 
 ing pin. 
 
 If the fowl is to be lolled, cut off the 
 nails of the feet, and tuck them down 
 close to the legs. Put your finger into 
 the inside, and raise the skin of the legs; 
 then cut a hole in the top of the skin, 
 and put the legs under. Put a skewer 
 \n the first joint of the pinion, and bring 
 the middle of the leg close to it ; put a 
 skewer through the middle of the leg, 
 and through the body, and then do the 
 same on the other side. Open the giz- 
 zard, remove the contents, and wash it 
 well ; remove the gall-bladder from the 
 liver. Put the gizzard and the liver in 
 the, pinions, turn the points on the back, 
 and tie a string over the tops of the legs 
 to keep them in their proper places. 
 
 If the fowl is to be roasted, put a 
 skewer in the first joint of the pinion 
 and bring the middle of the leg close tc 
 it. Put the skewer through the middle 
 of the leg, and through the body, and do 
 the same on the other side. Put another 
 skewer in the small of the leg, and 
 through the sidesman ; do the same on 
 the other side, and then put another 
 through the skin of the feet, which 
 should have the nails cut off. 
 
 The prime parts of a fowl, whethe 
 roasted or boiled, are the wings, breas 
 and merry-thought ; and next to these 
 the' neck-bones and side-bones; the leg 
 are rather coarse of a boiled fowl, how 
 ever, the legs are rather more tender tha 
 a roasted one ; of the leg of a fowl th 
 thigh is the better part, and therefor 
 
 hen given to any one should be sepa- 
 ated from the drum-stick, which is done 
 y passing the knife underneath, in the 
 
 ollow, and turning the thigh-bone back 
 
 om the leg-bone. 
 
 To Truss ChicJcens.'Pick and draw them 
 n the same manner as you would fowls ; 
 ut, as their skins are very tender, plunge 
 hem into scalding water, and remove, 
 when the feathers will come off readily. 
 
 If they are to be boiled, cut off the nails, 
 otch the sinews on each side of the joint } 
 ut the feet in at the vent, and then peel 
 he rump. Draw the skin tight over 
 le legs, put a skewer in the first joint 
 f the pinion, and bring the middle of 
 he legs close. Put the skewer through 
 he middle of the legs, and through the 
 X)dy; and do the same on the other 
 ide. Clean the gizzard, and remove the 
 gall from the liver ; put them into the 
 linions, and turn the points on the back. 
 
 If for roasting, cut off the feet, put a 
 skewer in the first joint of the pinions, 
 and bring the middle of the legs close. 
 Run the skewer through the middle of $ie 
 legs and body, and do the same on the 
 
 ther side. Put another skewer into the 
 sidesman, put the legs between the apron 
 and the sidesman, and run the skewer 
 through. Having cleaned the liver and 
 ^izzardj put them under the pinions, turn 
 the points on the back, and pull the breast- 
 skin over the neck. 
 
 To Truss Pheasants. Pick them clean, 
 cut a slit at the back of the neck, take 
 out the crop, loosen the liver, and gut the 
 breast with the fore-finger; then cut off the 
 vent, and draw them. Cut off the pinion 
 at the first joint, and wipe out the in- 
 side with the pinion. Beat the breast- 
 bone flat with a rolling-pin, put a skewer 
 in the pinion, and bring the middle of 
 the legs close. Then run the skewer 
 through the legs, body, and the other 
 pinion, twist the head, and put it on the 
 
106 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 end of the skewer, with the bill fronting 
 the breast. Put another skewer into 
 the sidesman, and put the legs close on 
 each side of the apron, and then run the 
 skewer through all. If you wish the 
 cock-pheasant to look well, leave the beau- 
 tiful feathers on the head, and cover with 
 paper to protect them from the fire. 
 Save the long feathers from the tail; 
 and when cooked, stick them into the 
 rump before sending to table. 
 
 If the pheasants are for lolling, put 
 the legs in the same manner as in truss- 
 ing a fowl. 
 
 To Truss Pigeons. Pick clean, take off 
 the neck close to the back ; then remove 
 the crop, cut off the vent, and draw out the 
 entrails and gizzard, but leave the liver, 
 as a pigeon has no gall-bladder. 
 
 If for roasting, cut off the toes, cut a 
 slit hi one of the legs, and put the other 
 through it. Draw the leg tight to the 
 pinion, put a skewer through the pinion, 
 legs, and body, and with the handle of 
 the knife break the breast flat. Clean 
 the gizzard, and put it under one of the 
 pinions, and turn the points on the back. 
 
 If for boiling or stewing, cut the feet 
 off at the joint, turn the legs, and stick 
 them in the sides, close to the pinions. 
 If for a pie, they must be done in the 
 same manner. 
 
 To Truss Wild Fowl Pick clean, cut 
 off the neck close to the back, and, with 
 the middle finger, loosen the liver and 
 other parts. Cut off the pinions at the 
 first joint ; then cut a slit between the 
 vent and the rump, and draw them clean. 
 Clean them properly with the long feath- 
 ers on the wing, cut off the nails, and turn 
 the feet close to the legs. Put a skewer 
 in the pinion, pull the legs close to the 
 breast, and run the* skewer through the 
 legs, body, and the other pinion. Cut off 
 the end of the vent, and put the rump 
 through it. 
 
 All kinds of wild-fowl are to be truss- 
 ed thus : 
 
 To Truss Woodcock, Plover and Snipe. 
 If these birds are not very fresh, great 
 care must be taken in picking them, as 
 they are very tender to pick at any time ; 
 for even the heat of the hand will some- 
 times take off the skin, which will de- 
 stroy the beauty of the bird. When 
 picked clean, cut the pinions in the first 
 joint, and with the handle 
 of a knife beat the breast- 
 bone flat. Turn the legs 
 close to the thighs, and tie them together 
 at the joints. Put the thighs close to 
 the pinions, put a skewer into the pin- 
 ions, and run it through the thighs, body, 
 and other pinions. Skin the head, turn 
 it, take out the eyes, and put the head on 
 the point of the skewer, with the bill 
 close to the breast. These birds must 
 never be drawn. 
 
 To Truss small Birds. Pick well, cut 
 off their heads, and the pinions of the 
 first joint. Beat the breast-bone flat, and 
 turn the feet close to the legs, and put 
 one into the other. Draw out the gizzard, 
 and run a skewer through the middle of 
 the bodies. Tie the skewer fast to the 
 spit when you put them down to roast. 
 
 To Truss Hare or Rabbit. A hare or 
 rabbit should be pauncTied, or cleaned, as 
 soon as it is killed. The inside should be 
 kept dry and peppered. "When trussed, 
 the sinews of the hind-legs must be cut, 
 and the legs turned towards the head and 
 fastened to the sides. The fore-legs must 
 be turned to meet the hind-legs, and fas- 
 tened, with slight skewers to the body. 
 The head is thrown back and kept in 
 place by a skewer passed through it. 
 The stuffing is put in, and the skin sew- 
 ed up. A string fastens all compactly 
 together. The ears of a rabbit are to be 
 cut off when roasted or boiled. 
 
CARVING. 
 
 107 
 
 CAKVINGk 
 
 Ladies ought especially to make carv- 
 ing a study ; at their own houses, they 
 grace the table, and should be enabled to 
 perform the task allotted to them with 
 sufficient skill to prevent remark or the 
 calling forth of eager proffers of assist 1 
 ance from good-natured visitors near, 
 who probably would not present any bet- 
 ter claim to a neat performance. 
 
 Carving presents no difficulties ; it re- 
 quires simply knowledge. All display 
 of exertion or violence are in very bad 
 taste; for, if not an evidence of the 
 want of ability on the part of the car- 
 ver, they present a very strong testi- 
 mony of the toughness of a joint or the 
 more than full age of a bird : in both 
 cases they should be avoided. A good 
 knife of moderate size, sufficient length 
 of handle, and very sharp, is requisite ; 
 for a lady it should be light, and smaller 
 than that used by gentlemen. Fowls are 
 very easily carved, and joints, such as 
 loins, breasts, fore-quarters, &c. The 
 butcher should have strict injunctions to 
 separate the joints well. 
 
 The dish upon which the article to be 
 carved is placed should be conveniently 
 near to the carver, so that he has ful 
 control over it ; for if far off, nothing 
 can prevent an ungraceful appearance 
 nor a difficulty in performing that which 
 in its proper place could be achieved wit! 
 
 In serving fish, some nicety and car* 
 must be exercised ; here lightness of ham 
 and dexterity of management is neces 
 sary, and can only be acquired by prac 
 tice. ^The flakes which, in such fish a 
 salmon and cod are large, should not b 
 broken in serving, for the beauty of th 
 fish is then destroyed, and the appetit 
 for it injured. In addition to '.he skil 
 * in the use of the knife, there is also re 
 quired another description of knowledge 
 and that is an acquaintance with the bes 
 parts of the joint, fowl, or fish bein 
 
 arved. Thus, in a haunch of venison, 
 le fat, which is a favorite, must be serv- 
 d with each slice ; hi the shoulder of 
 .utton there are some delicate cuts in 
 
 e under part. The breast and wings 
 re the best parts of a fowl, the trail of ' 
 
 woodcock on a toast is the choicest 
 art of the bird. In fish a part of the 
 oe, melt, or liver should accompany the 
 iece of fish served ; the list, however, 
 3 too numerous to mention here ; and, 
 ndeed, the knowledge can only be ac- 
 uired by experience. In large establish- 
 ments the gross dishes are carved at the 
 >uffet by the butler, but in general they 
 ire placed upon the table. 
 
 Fish is served with a fish-slice, or the 
 new fish-knife and fork, and requires 
 
 ery little carving, care being required, 
 lowever, not to break the flakes, which, 
 from their size, add much to the beauty 
 of cod and salmon. Serve part of the 
 roe, melt, or liver, to each person. The 
 heads of carp, part of those of ctfd and 
 salmon, sounds of cod, and fins of turbot, 
 are likewise considered delicacies. 
 
 Mackerel 
 
 Should be deprived of the head and tail 
 by passing the slice across in the direc- 
 tion of lines 1 and 2 ; they should then 
 be divided down the back, so as to assist 
 each person to a slice ; but if less is re- 
 quired, the thicker end should be given, 
 as it is more esteemed. If the roe is 
 asked for, it will be found between 1 and 
 
 2. 
 
 ' Barbel, Carp, Haddock, Herring, Perch, 
 Whiting, &c., should be helped the same 
 
108 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 as Mackerel ; remembering that the head 
 of the Carp is esteemed a delicacy. 
 
 Cod's Head and Shoulders. 
 
 Pass the fish-slice or knife from 1 to 6 
 down to the bone ; then help pieces from 
 between 1 2, and 3 4, and with each 
 slice give a piece of the sojmd, which 
 lies under the back-bone, and is procured 
 by passing the knife in the direction 4 
 5. There are many delicate parts about 
 the head, particularly the oyster, which 
 is the cheek, below the eye ; and a great 
 deal of the jelly kind, which lies about 
 the jaws. The tongue aud palate are 
 considered delicacies, and are obtained 
 by passing the slice or a spoon into the 
 mouth. 
 
 Salmon. 
 
 Give a portion of the back and belly 
 to each person, or as desired. If a whole 
 salmon is served, remember that the 
 choice parts are next the head, the thin 
 part is the next best, and the tail the 
 least esteemed. Make an incision along 
 the back, 9 to 10, and another from 1 to 
 2, and 3 to 4; cut the thickest part, bc- 
 tween 56. 102, for the lean j and 
 78 for the fat. When the fish is very 
 thick, do not help too near the bone, as 
 the flavor and color are not so good. . 
 
 Although carving with ease and ele- 
 gance is a very necessary accomplish- 
 ment, yet most people are lamentably 
 
 deficient not only in the art of dissecting 
 winged game and poultry, but also in 
 the important point of knowing the parts 
 most generally esteemed. Practice only 
 can make good carvers ; but the direc- 
 tions here given, with accompanying 
 plates, will enable any one to disjoint a 
 fowl, and avoid the awkwardness of dis- 
 figuring a joint. 
 
 In the first place, whatever is to be 
 carved should be set in a dish sufficiently 
 large for turning it if necessary ; but the 
 dish itself should not be moved from its 
 position, which should be so close before 
 the carver as only to leave room for the 
 plates. The carving-knife should be 
 light, sharp, well-tempered, and of a size 
 proportioned to the joint, strength being 
 less required than address in the manner 
 of using it. Large solid joints, such as 
 ham, fillet of veal, and salt beef, cannot 
 be cut too thin ; but mutton, roast pork, 
 and the other joints of veal, should never 
 DC served in very slender slices. 
 
 A Sound (buttock) or Aitch-bone of 
 Beef. Pare off from the upper part, of 
 
 Aitch-bone of Beet 
 
 ither, a slice from the whole surface, of 
 about half an inch thick, and put it aside ; 
 
 ;hen cut thin slices of both lean and fat, 
 
 n the direction from a to 5. Tne soft 
 
 f at, which resembles marrow, lies at the 
 back of the aitch-bone, below c, but the 
 firm fat must be cut in slender horizon- 
 
 al slices at #, and is much better than 
 
 he soft when eaten cold. 
 Ribs of Beef. Cut along the whole 
 
 length of the bone, from end to end, a to 
 
CARVING. 
 
 109 
 
 Z>, either commencing in the centre or at 
 one side, having the thin end towards 
 you ; but if cut from the bone and form- 
 ed into a round, with the fat end doubled 
 into the centre, it must then be cut in 
 the same manner as the round of beef. 
 
 Brisket of Beef. 
 
 Brisket of Beef must be carved in the 
 direction 1 and 2, quite down to the bone, 
 after cutting off the outside, which should 
 be about three-quarters of an inch thick. 
 
 Sirloin of Beef . Cut in the same man- 
 
 Sirloin of Beef. 
 
 ner as the ribs, commencing either at the 
 centre or the side, as from a to 5. The 
 under part should be cut across the bone, 
 as at c for the lean, and d for the rich fat ; 
 many persons prefer the under to the 
 upper part, the meat being more tender. 
 Fillet of Veal. Carve it in the same 
 
 Fillet of Veal. 
 
 manner as the round of beef; but the up- 
 
 per slice should be cut somewhat thinner, 
 as most persons like a little of the brown, 
 and a portion of it should be served along 
 with each slice, together with a slice of 
 the fat and stuffing, which is skewered 
 within the flap. 
 
 Neck of Veal. Cut across the ribs, as 
 
 Neck of Teal 
 at a to & : the small bones, as at c to d, 
 being cut off, divided, and served separate- 
 ly, for it is not only a tedious, but a vul- 
 gar operation to attempt to disjoint the 
 ribs. 
 
 Loin of Veal. The joint is placed in 
 the dish in the same manner as a sirloin 
 of beef, but should be turnsd up, and the 
 whole of the kidney and fat cut out ; the 
 fat being usually put upon a dry toast 
 and served as marrow. The loin is then 
 returned to its former position, and the 
 meat should be cut across the ribs as in 
 the neck, serving it with a slice of kid- 
 ney. 
 
 Knuckle of VeaL 
 
 Knuckle of Veal is to be carved in the 
 direction 12. The most delicate fat 
 lies about the part 4, and if cut* in the 
 line 34, the two bones, between which 
 the marrowy fat lies, will be divided. 
 
 Breast of Veal, being very gristly, is 
 
110 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 not easily divided into pieces. In order, 
 therefore, to avoid this difficulty, put 
 your knife at a about four inches from 
 
 Breast of VeaL 
 
 the edge of the thickest part (which is 
 called " the brisket"), and cut through 
 it to 5, to separate it from the long ribs : 
 cut the short bones across, as at d, d, d, 
 and the long ones as at c, c, c ; ask which is 
 chosen, and help accordingly. The re- 
 maining scrag part is seldom served at 
 table, but forms an excellent stew when 
 dressed in the French mode. 
 
 Shoulder of Veal Cut in the same 
 manner as a shoulder of mutton, begin- 
 ning on the under side. 
 
 Calf s Head. Cut slices from a to I in 
 
 Calf s Head. 
 
 the figure, which describes only half 
 the head, letting the knife go close to the 
 bono. Many like the eye at c, which 
 you roust cut out with the point of your 
 knife, and divide hi two, along with some 
 of the glutinous bits which surround it. 
 If the jaw-bone be taken off, there will 
 be found some fine lean, and under the 
 head is the palate, which is reckoned a 
 delicacy. 
 
 The tongue and brains are dished sep- 
 arately, but served in small portions 
 along with the head. 
 
 Leg of Mutton. The best part of a leg 
 :f 
 
 d < 
 Leg of Mutton. 
 
 of mutton, whether boiled or roasted, is 
 midway between the knuckle and the 
 broad end. Begin to help there from the 
 roundest and thickest part, by cutting 
 slices, not too thin, from 5 down to c. 
 This part is the most juicy ; but many 
 prefer the knuckle, which, in fine mutton, 
 will be very tender, though dry. There 
 are very fine slices in the back of the leg ; 
 therefore, if the party be large, turn it up 
 and cut the broad end ; not across in the 
 direction you did the other side, ~but long- 
 wise, from the thick end to the knuckle- 
 bone. To cut out the cramp-bone, which 
 some persons look upon as a delicacy, 
 pass your knife under in the direction of 
 e, and it will be found between that and d. 
 
 Shoulder of Mutton, though commonly 
 looked upon as a very homely joint, is 
 by many preferred to the leg, as there is 
 much variety of flavor, as well as texture, 
 in both the upper and under parts. 
 
 The figure represents it laid in the dish 
 as always served, with its lack upper- 
 most. Cut through it from a down to 
 
 Shoulder of Mutton. 
 
 the blade-bone at & ; afterwards slice it 
 along each side of the blade-bone from c 
 
CAKV1NG. 
 
 Ill 
 
 c 5. The prime part of the fat lies on 
 the outer edge, and is to be cut in thin 
 slices in the direction of d. 
 The under part, as here represented, 
 
 contains many favorite pieces of different 
 sorts, as, crosswise, in slices, near the 
 shank-bone at &; and, lengthwise, in 
 broad pieces, at the further end a; as 
 well as in the middle and sides in the 
 manner designated at c and d. 
 
 Should it be intended to reserve a por- 
 tion of the joint to be eaten cold, all this 
 undermost part should be first cut away 
 and served separately, both as it eats bet- 
 ter hot than cold, and as the upper re- 
 maining part will appear more sightly in 
 the table. 
 
 Loin of Mutton. Cut the joints into 
 chops and serve them separately ; or cut 
 slices the whole length of the loin ; or 
 run the knife along the chine-bone, and 
 then slice it, the fat and lean together, 
 as shown in the cut of the saddle, hi 
 the next column. 
 
 Neck of Mutton. It should be prepar- 
 ed for table as follows: Cut off the 
 scrag; have the chine-bone carefully 
 sawn off, and also the top of the long 
 bones (about an inch and a half,) and th< 
 thin part turned under ; carve in the di 
 rection of the bones. 
 
 The scrag of mutton, when roasted, i 
 very frequently separated from the ribi 
 of the neck, and in that case the mea 
 and bones may be helped together. 
 
 Saddle of Mutton. Gut in long anc 
 rather thin slices from the tail to th 
 end, beginning at each side close to th 
 
 back-bone, from a to &, with slices of fat 
 
 Saddle of Mutton. 
 
 Tom c to d; or along the bone which 
 divides the two loins, so as to loosen 
 from it the whole of the meat from that 
 side which you then cut crosswise, thus 
 giving with each slice both fat and lean. 
 The tail end is usually divided and partly 
 turned up. Some butchers also skewer 
 the kidneys across the incision, but it is 
 not usual at genteel tables, and the inci 
 sion is better omitted. 
 
 Fore-Quarter of Lamb. Haunch of Venison, 
 
112 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 Haunch of Mutton. A haunch is the 
 leg and part of the loin, and is cut in the 
 same manner as a haunch of venison. 
 
 Fore-Quarter of Lamb. Pass the 
 knife under the shoulder in the direction 
 of /z, c, 5, d, so as to separate it from the 
 ribs without cutting the meat too much 
 off the bones. A Seville orange or 
 lemon should then be divided, the halves 
 sprinkled with salt and pepper, and the 
 juice squeezed over the under part. A 
 little cold or melted butter is then put 
 between both parts, after which the 
 shoulder is placed in a separate dish to 
 be helped by some other person. Divide 
 the ribs from d to e : and then serve the 
 neck/, and breast g-, as may be chosen. 
 
 Haunch of Venison. Have the joint 
 lengthwise before you, the knuckle being 
 the farthest point. Cut from a to &, but 
 be careful not to let out the gravy ; then 
 cut along the whole length from a down 
 to d. The knife should slope in making 
 the first cut, and then the whole of the 
 gravy will be received in the well. The 
 greater part of the fat, which is the fa- 
 vorite portion, will be found at the left 
 side, and care must be taken to serve 
 some with each slice. 
 
 Neck of Venison. Cut across the ribs 
 diagonally ; or it may be cut in slices 
 the whole length of the neck. The first 
 method is equally good, and much more 
 economical. 
 
 Leg of Pork. 
 
 A leg of Por\ whether boiled or roast- 
 ed, is carved the same. Commence about 
 midway, between the knuckle and the 
 thick end, and cut thin deep slices from 
 cither side of the line 1 to 2. 
 
 PorJc. In helping the roast loin and 
 leg, your knife must follow the direction 
 of the scores cut by the oook upon the 
 skin which forms the crackling, as it is 
 too crisp for being conveniently divided, 
 and cannot therefore be cut across the 
 bones of the ribs, as in loin of mutton. 
 The scores upon the roasted leg are, how- 
 ever, always marked too broadly for 
 single cuts ; the crackling must therefore 
 be lifted up from the back to allow of 
 thin slices being cut from the meat ; the 
 seasoning is under the skin at the larger 
 end. 
 
 Ham. 
 
 Ham. Serve it with the back upwards, 
 sometime^ ornamented, and generally 
 having, as in France, the shank-bone 
 covered with cut paper. Begin in the 
 middle by cutting long and very thin 
 slices from a to 5, continuing down to 
 the thick fat at the broad end. The first 
 slice should be wedge-shaped, that all the 
 others may be cut slanting, which gives 
 a handsome appearance to them. Many 
 persons, however, prefer the hock at d 
 as having more flavor ; it is then carved 
 lengthwise from c to d. 
 
 A Tongue. 
 
 A Tongue should be cut across, nearly 
 
CARVING. 
 
 113 
 
 through the middle, at the line 1, and thin 
 slices taken from each side ; a portion of 
 the fat, which is situated at the root of the 
 tongue, being helped with each. 
 
 Boast Pig. 
 
 Sucking-pig. The cook usually divides 
 the body before it is sent to table as 
 thus and garnishes the dish with the 
 jaws and ears. 
 
 Separate a shoulder from one side, and 
 then the leg, according to the direction 
 given by the line along the carcass. The 
 ribs are then to be divided ; and an ear 
 or jaw presented with them, and plenty 
 of sauce and stuffing. The joints may 
 either be divided into two each, or pieces 
 may be cut from them. The ribs are 
 reckoned the finest part ; but some peo- 
 ple prefer the neck end, between the 
 shoulders. 
 
 ,nd back, and give it a little turn in- 
 wards at the joint, which you must en- 
 deavor to hit, and not to break by force. 
 The shoulders may be removed by a 
 ircular cut around them. The back is 
 he most delicate part, and next to that 
 he thighs. A portion of the stuffing 
 should be served with each slice. The 
 brains and ears of sucking-pig and rabbit 
 ire also considered epicurean titbits, 
 which must not be neglected ; wherefore, 
 when every one is helped, cut off' the 
 lead, put your knife between the upper 
 and lower jaw and divide them, which 
 will enable you to lay the upper fiat on 
 your plate ; then put the point of the 
 inife into the centre, and cut the head 
 nto two. 
 
 Babbit. 
 
 Rabbits Put the point of the knife 
 under the shoulder at 6, and so cut all 
 the way down to the rump, along the 
 sides of the backbone, in the limb &, a 
 cutting it in moderately thick slices ; or 
 after removing the shoulders and legs 
 cut the back crosswise in four or five 
 pieces; but this can only be done when 
 the rabbit is very young, or when it is 
 boned. To separate the' legs, and 
 shoulders, put the knife between the leg 
 
 Boiled Babbit 
 
 Boiled Rabbits. The legs and shoul- 
 ders should be first taken oft^ and then 
 the back cut across into two parts, 
 which is easily done by a bend of the 
 knife in the joint underneath, about the 
 middle of the back. The back is the 
 best, and some of the liver should al- 
 ways accompany it. 
 
 The carving of both WINGED GAME 
 and POULTRY requires more delicacy of 
 hand and nicety in hitting the joints 
 than the cutting of large pieces of meat, 
 and, to be neatly done, requires consider- 
 able practice. 
 
 Koast Turkey. 
 Roast Turkey. Cut long slices from 
 
114 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPEB. 
 
 each side of the breast down to the ribs, 
 beginning at a I from the wing to the 
 breastbone. Then turn the turkey upon 
 the side nearest you, and cut off the leg 
 and wing ; when the knife is passed be- 
 tween the limbs and the body, and press- 
 ed outward, the joint will be easily per- 
 ceived. Then turn the turkey on the 
 other side, and cut off the leg and wing. 
 Separate the drumsticks from the leg 
 bones, and the pinions from the wings ; 
 it is hardly possible to mistake the joint. 
 Cut the stuffing in thin slices, length- 
 wise. Take off the neck-bones, which 
 are two triangular bones on each side of 
 the breast ; this % is done by passing the 
 knife from the back under the blade part 
 of each neck-bone, until it reaches the 
 end: by raising the knife the other 
 branch will easily crack off. Separate 
 the carcass from the back by passing the 
 knife lengthwise from the neck down- 
 ward. Turn the back upwards and lay 
 the edge of the knife across the back- 
 bone about midway between the legs 
 and wings ; at the same moment, place 
 the fork within the lower part of the 
 turkey, and lift it up ; this will make the 
 back-bone crack at the knife. The croup, 
 or lower part of the back, being cut off, 
 put it on the plate with the rump from 
 you, and split off the side-bones by forc- 
 ing the knife through from the rump to 
 the other end. 
 
 The choicest parts of a turkey are the 
 side-bones, the breast and the thigh-bones. 
 The breast and wings are called light 
 meat; the thigh-bones and side-bones 
 dark meat. When a person declines ex- 
 pressing a preference, it is polite to help 
 to both kinds. 
 
 Boiled Turkey. 
 
 Soiled Turkey is carved in the same 
 way as the roast, the only difference 
 being in the trussing; the legs in the 
 boiled being, as here shown, drawn into 
 the body, and in the roast skewered. 
 
 Roa%t Fowl. Slip the knife between 
 the leg and body, and cut to the bone ; 
 then with the fork turn the leg back, and 
 the joint will give way if the bird is not 
 old. Take the wing off in the direction 
 of a to 5, only dividing the joint with 
 your knife. When the four quarters are 
 thus removed, take off the merry-thought 
 from c, and the neck bones ; these last, 
 by putting in the knife at d, and press- 
 ing it, will break off from the part that 
 sticks to the breast. The next thing is 
 to divide the breast from the carcass, by 
 
 Eoast FowL 
 
 cutting through the tender ribs close to 
 the breast, quite down to the tail. Then 
 
 Boiled Fowl, breast. Boiled Fowl, back. 
 
 ay the back upwards, put your knife into 
 the bone half way from the neck to the 
 
CARVING. 
 
 115 
 
 rump, and on raising the lower end tt I neck, and cut all the other parts as in a 
 will separate readily. Turn the rump fowl. The breast, wings, and merry- 
 from you, take off the two sidesmen, and thought are the most esteemed: but the 
 the whole will be done. To separate the! thigh has a high flavor. 
 
 thigh from the drumstick of the leg in- 
 sert the knife into the joint as above. It 
 requires practice to hit the joint at the 
 first trial. The breast and wings are 
 considered the best parts. 
 
 If the bird be a capon, or large, and 
 roasted, the breast may be cut into slices 
 in the same way as a pheasant. 
 
 Partridge. It may be cut up in the 
 same manner as a fowl ; 
 but the bird being small, 
 it is unusual to divide it 
 into more than three 
 portions the leg and 
 wing being left togeth- 
 Partridge. e r, and the breast help- 
 
 The difference in the carving of boiled 1 e( j entire ; the back, being only served 
 and roast fowls consists only in the along with some of the other parts. If 
 breast of the latter being always served | the birds are very young, and the party 
 
 not over large, the whole body is not un- 
 frequently only separated into two 
 pieces, by one cut of the knife from head 
 to tail. 
 
 Quails. Generally helped whole. 
 Grouse, Snipe, and Woodcock. Pro- 
 ceed as for partridge, except that the trail 
 Eoast Goose. I Qr entra j lg of the two latter i s gcrve d U p 
 
 whole, and the thigh-bone being generally on toastt ^ s re gards these different 
 preferred to the wing. sor t s of game, the thigh of the pheasant 
 
 .. Cut thin slices from the breast an( j t he woo dcock is the best, and the 
 at a to & ; the wing is generally separated ^ reas t an d wing of the partridge and 
 as in turkeys, but the leg is almost con- g rouse ; but the most epicurean morsel 
 stantly reserved for broiling. Serve a of all j s t he tra il O f the woodcock serv- 
 little of the seasoning from the inside by ed up on toast. Smaller birds should 
 cutting a circular slice in the apron at c. a i wa y g be helped as they are roasted, 
 Pheasant. Slip the knife between the | w hole. 
 
 Wild-Duck, Widgeon, and most sorts 
 of water-fowl. Make two or three in- 
 cisions, as long slices, into the breast, on 
 which a glass of hot port-wine is poured ; 
 have ready a lemon cut in half, on one 
 , side covered with salt, and on the other 
 
 Pheasant. 
 
 leg and the breast : cut off a wing small 
 
 from a to I ; then slice the breast, and , Pige0 n, breast, 
 
 you will have two or three handsome Aether 
 
 cuts Cut off the merry-thought by with cayenne P ep F r Put both together 
 passmg the knife under il towards the | theu squeeze the juice over the breast, 
 
116 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 after which the slices and limbs may "D< 
 served round. 
 
 Pigeons. Cut them in half, through 
 both back and breast ; the lower part is 
 generally thought the best. 
 
 Fish requires very little carving; it 
 should be carefully helped with a fish- 
 slice, which, not being sharp, prevents 
 the flakes from being broken, and in sal- 
 mon and cod these are large and add 
 much to their beauty. 
 
 NAMES OF THE VARIOUS JOINTS IN 
 ANIMALS. 
 
 I. Beef. 
 
 mnd Quarter. 
 1. Sirloin. 
 2. Rump. 
 8. Aitch-Bone. 
 4. Buttock. 
 5. Mouse-Buttock. 
 6. Veiny Piece. 
 7. Thick Flank. 
 8. Thin Flank. 
 9. Leg. 
 10. Fore-ribs; 5 ribs. 
 
 Fore Quarter. 
 11. Middle-rib ; 4 ribs. 
 12. Chuck ; 8 ribs. 
 18. Shoulder, or Leg of 
 Mutton Piece. 
 14. Brisket 
 15. Clod. 
 16. Neck or Sticking 
 Piece. 
 IT. Shin. 
 18. Cheek. 
 
 2. Mutton or Lamb. 
 
 1. Les. 
 
 2. Li in, best end. 
 
 8. Loin, chump end. 
 
 4. Neck, best end. 
 
 5. Neck, scrag end. 
 
 6. Shoulder. 
 
 7. Breast. 
 
 8. Head. 
 
 A Chine is two Neckjs. 
 A Saddle is two Loins. 
 
 3. Porlc. 
 
 1. The Spare-rib. 
 
 2. The Hand. 
 
 3. The Belly or Spring. 
 
 4. Fore-loin. 
 
 5. Hind-loin. 
 
 6. Leg. 
 
 7. Head. 
 
 4. Veal. 
 
 1. Loin, best -end. 
 
 2. Loin, chump end. 
 8, Fillet. 
 
 4. Hind-knuckle. 
 ). Fore-knuckle. 
 6. Neck, best end. 
 
 7. Neck, scrag end. 
 
 8. Blade-bone. 
 
 9. Breast, best end. 
 
 10. Breast, Brisket end. 
 
 11. Head. 
 
 5. Venison. 
 
 . Haunch. 
 Neck. 
 
 8. Shoulder. 
 4. Breast. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 CULrNAEY UTENSILS.* 
 
 THE various utensils used for the pre 
 >aration and keeping of food are made 
 
 * For the cuts in this chapter, and for the engrav- 
 ngs of house-keeping utensils throughout the book 
 
CULINAKY UTENSILS. 
 
 nr 
 
 either of metal, glass, pottery ware, or 
 wood ; each of which is better suited to 
 some particular purposes than the others. 
 Metallic utensils are quite unfit for many 
 uses, and the knowledge of this is neces- 
 sary to the preservation of health in 
 general, and sometimes to the prevention 
 of immediate dangerous consequences. 
 
 "Waffle Iron to revolve over hole In Eange or Stove. 
 
 The metals commonly used in the 
 construction of these vessels are silver, 
 copper, brass, tin, iron, and lead. Silver 
 is preferable to all others, because it can- 
 not be dissolved by any of the substan- 
 ces used as food. Brimstone unites with 
 silver, and forms a thin brittle crust over 
 it that gives it the appearance of being 
 tarnished. The discoloring of silver 
 spoons used with eggs arises from th 
 brimstone contained in eggs. Nitre or 
 saltpetre has also a slight effect upon 
 
 Egg Trier or Fancy Cake Baker. 
 
 silver, but nitre and silver seldom remai 
 
 the Publisher is indebted to the courtesy of sev 
 
 eral dealers in New York, whose kind approval 
 
 of the work has greatly encouraged its issue 
 
 8 
 
 ong enough together in domestic uses to 
 equire any particular caution. 
 
 Copper and brass are both liable to be 
 issolved by vinegar, acid fruits, and 
 >earlash. Such solutions are highly poi- 
 onous. and great caution should be used 
 o prevent accidents of the kind. Ves- 
 els made of these metals are generally 
 inned, that is, lined with a thin coating 
 f a mixed metal, containing both tin 
 nd lead. Neither acids, nor any thing 
 ontaining pearlash, should ever be suf- 
 ered to remain above an hour in vessels 
 )f this kind, as the tinning is dissolvable 
 y acids, and the coating is seldom per- 
 ect over the surface of the copper or 
 rass. 
 
 Muffin Baker. 
 
 The utensils made of what is called 
 Dlock tin are constructed of iron plates 
 coated with tin. This is as liable to be 
 dissolved as the tinning of copper or brass 
 vessels, but iron is not an unwholesome 
 substance, if even a portion of it should 
 be dissolved and mixed in the food. Iron 
 is therefore one of the safest metals for 
 the construction of culinary utensils ; 
 and the objection to its more extensive 
 use only rests upon its liability to rust, 
 so that it requires more cleaning and 
 soon decays. Some articles of food, such 
 as quinces, orange-peel, artichokes, &c., 
 are blackened by remaining hi iron ves- 
 sels, which therefore must not be used 
 for them. 
 
 Leaden vessels are very unwholesome, 
 and should never be used for milk and 
 cream if it be ever likely to stand till it 
 become sour. They are unsafe also for 
 the purpose of keeping salted meats. 
 
 The best kind of pottery ware is ori- 
 ental china, because the glazing is a per- 
 
118 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 feet glass, which cannot be dissolved, and 
 the whole substance is so compact that 
 liquid cannot penetrate it. Many of the 
 English pottery wares are badly glazed,, 
 and as the glazing is made principally 
 of lead, it is necessary to avoid putting- 
 vinegar and other acids into them. Acids 
 and greasy substances penetrate into un- 
 glazed wares, excepting the strong stone 
 ware ; or into those of which the glaz- 
 ing is cracked, and hence give a bad fla- 
 vor to any thing they are used for after- 
 wards. They are quite unfit, therefore, 
 for keeping pickles or salted meats. 
 Glass vessels are infinitely preferable to 
 any pottery ware but oriental china, and 
 should be used whenever the occasion 
 admits of it. 
 
 Wooden vessels are very proper for 
 keeping many articles of food, and should 
 always be preferred to those lined with 
 lead. If any substance has fermented 
 or become putrid in a wooden cask or 
 tub, it is sure to taint the vessel so as to 
 produce a similar effect upon any thing 
 that may be put into it in future. It is 
 useful to char the msides of these wood- 
 en vessels before they are used, by burn- 
 ing wooden shavings, so as to coat the 
 insides with a crust of charcoal. 
 
 As whatever contaminates food in any 
 way must be sure, from the repetition of 
 its baneful effects, to injure the health, a 
 due precaution with respect to all culi- 
 nary vessels is necessary for its more 
 certain preservation. There is a kind 
 of hollow iron ware lined with enamel, 
 which is superior to every other utensil 
 for sauces or preserves ; indeed it is pre- 
 ferable for every purpose. 
 
 A kitchen should always be well fur- 
 nished ; there is no necessity that it should 
 be profusely so, but there should be a suffi- 
 ciency of every thing which can aid in 
 producing the dishes preparing, with the 
 success which is so essential to the grati- 
 fication of the palate. A good workman 
 cannot work well with bad tools, neither 
 
 can good cooks do justice to their profi- 
 ciency, if they possess not the necessary 
 utensils suitable to the various modes of 
 cooking. And when this important 
 point has been realized, cleanliness in 
 every article used should be scrupulously 
 observed ; no utensil should be suffered 
 to be put away dirty ; it not only injures 
 the article itself materially, to say nothing 
 of the impropriety of the habit, but pre- 
 vents its readiness for use on any sudden 
 occasion. No good cook or servant 
 would be guilty of such an act ; those 
 who are. do so either from laziness or 
 want of system, or a nature naturally 
 dirty; if a very strong hint will not 
 suffice, it is of little use speaking out. 
 A servant who is inherently dirty or 
 slovenly, should never be retained ; it is 
 better and easier to change frequently 
 until the mistress is suited, however un- 
 pleasant frequent changes may prove, 
 than Quixotically attempt to cure a per- 
 son of this description. Cleanliness is 
 the most essential ingredient in the art 
 of cooking, and at any personal sacrifice 
 should be maintained in the kitchen. 
 
 The fixtures or fittings of a kitchen de- 
 pend upon the builder, and in modern 
 houses sufficient attention is paid to the 
 situations of the range, dresser, larder, 
 &c., to embody convenience. 
 
 In furnishing a kitchen, there should 
 be every thing likely to be required, but 
 not one article more than is wanted. 
 Unnecessary profusion creates a litter j 
 
CTTLINAUY UTENSILS. 
 
 119 
 
 and a deficiency too often sacrifices the 
 perfection of a dish. The following arti- 
 cles, of which we give engravings, are 
 requisite. 
 
 gets hot or cold gradually, retains the 
 eat longer, cooks better, and smokes less 
 mn ordinary griddles. 
 
 The Nursery Milk Wanner. 
 
 This is a very useful apparatus, on the 
 principle of the Bam Marie, or Water 
 Bath. 
 
 It consists of a block-tin saucepan to 
 hold water, and a smaller one, with cover 
 of the same material to fit within, but 
 not to reach to the bottom of the exter- 
 nal saucepan. This effectually prevents 
 the common accident of burning what is 
 intended to be boiled; for the reason 
 that the heat cannot be increased beyonc 
 boiling or 212 ; a represents the inner 
 . and & the external saucepan ; the cover 
 seen at the top will fit both saucepans. 
 A Double Floored Griddle, the bes 
 
 Double Floored Griddlo. 
 
 fron Griddle in use. Very thick j therefor 
 
 Beefeteak Maul. 
 
 A Beefsteak Pounder for making beef- 
 teak tender. 
 
 Beefsteak Pounder. 
 
 Wooden Moulds for moulding butter. 
 
 Butter Moulds. 
 
 For working butter into form, similar 
 to Butter Hands, the 
 
 Butter Board and Knife. 
 
120 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 Biscuit Mould or Block. 
 
 The pastry is rolled into this and forms 
 half the biscuit j others are made and fas- 
 tened together, either before or after 
 being baked. 
 
 Tea Bread Knife. 
 
 Tor cutting bread; it can be regula- 
 ted by screws at the ends to cut any thick- 
 
 Butter Pats. 
 
 A mould and stamp for butter by 
 which you can have the full size of the 
 stamp, and the butter any thickness. 
 
 Apple Boaster. 
 
 Tin Apple Roasters are often made with 
 a shelf, making two divisions, roasting 
 double the quantity. 
 
 Potato Masher 
 
 Knife Washer. 
 
 To wash Ivory, Pearl, or other han- 
 dled knives thoroughly, without allowing 
 the greasy water to come in contact with 
 and thereby soil or stain the handles. 
 
CULINARY UTENSILS. 
 
 121 
 
 Cheese Toaster. 
 
 Preserve Pan Enamelled. 
 
 Etna. 
 
 It will boil a pint of water in three 
 minutes. 
 
 #1 
 fi'l 
 
 oi 
 
 Biscuit, Cake aud Tartlet Cutters. 
 
 Cake and Vegetable Cutters. 
 
 Sponge Cake Pans. 
 
 Queen Cake, or Pound Cake Pans. 
 
 Jelly and Vegetable Moulds. 
 
 Oblong and Bound Jelly Moulds. 
 
 Jelly and Cake Moulds with Cylinder. 
 
 Sardine Opener. 
 
122 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOTTSEKEEPEK. 
 
 Smoked Beef and Cabbage Cutter, 
 
 Champalgne Opener. 
 
 Enamelled Porringer. 
 
 Enamelled Saucepan. 
 
 Bain Marie. 
 
 Enamelled Preserving Kettle. 
 
 Oyster Knife, for Opening Boasted Oysters. 
 
 Oyster Broiler, or Toast Gridiron. 
 
 Corkscrews. 
 
CULINARY UTENSILS. 
 
 123 
 
 Cucumber and Vegetable Slicer. 
 
 Saucepan Digester. The great impor- 
 tance of the digester, not only to poor 
 families, but to the public in general, in 
 producing a larger quantity of wholesome 
 and nourishing food, by a much cheaper 
 method than has ever been hitherto ob- 
 tained, is a matter of such serious and 
 interesting consideration, that it cannot 
 be too earnestly recommended to those 
 who make economy in the support of 
 their families an object of their attention. 
 The chief, and indeed the only thing 
 necessary to be done, is to direct a proper 
 mode of using it to advantage ; and this 
 mode is both simple and easy. Care 
 must be taken in filling the digester, to 
 leave room enough for the steam to pass 
 off through the valve at the top of the 
 cover. This may be done by filling the 
 digester only three parts full of water 
 and bruised bones or meat, which it is 
 to be noticed are all to be put in to- 
 gether. It must then be placed near a 
 slow fire, so as only to simmer, and this 
 it must do for the space of eight or ten 
 hours. After this has been done, the 
 soup is to be strained through a hair 
 sieve or cullender, in order to separate 
 any bits of bones. The soup is then to 
 be put into the digester again, and after 
 whatever vegetables, spices, &c., are 
 thought necessary are added, the whole 
 is to be well boiled together for an hour 
 or two, and it will then be filt for imme- 
 diate use. 
 
 Any thing that is to be warmed and 
 sent to table a second time should be put 
 into a basin or jar, placed in hot water, 
 which is not permitted to come to the 
 boiling point. If allowed to boil, the 
 meat will harden, or the sauce will be 
 
 reduced and become thick : by avoiding 
 these chances the flavor will be preserved, 
 and the viands may be warmed up more* 
 than once without injury. The steam- 
 apparatus now employed in most kitchens 
 is admirably adapted to this purpose, 
 since the heat can be regulated to the 
 required temperature. 
 
 A spacious movable screen, large 
 enough to completely cover the fire^ lined 
 throughout with* tin, and having shelves 
 for the warming of plates and dishes, 
 should also be an appendage ; and there 
 should be an abundance of kitchen uten- 
 sils of the best kind, kept in their pro- 
 per places and strictly clean. Cleanli- 
 ness is, indeed, of the first importance, 
 and no kitchen-maid should ever put 
 away a metal saucepan which has been 
 used for any other purpose than merely 
 boiling pure water, without scalding it 
 thoroughly and then drying it. 
 
 Every kitchen should be provided with 
 a clock to keep the cook to her time ; 
 also with a large and a small marble mor- 
 tar for the pounding of meat, with chop- 
 per, meat-saw, various-sized scoops for 
 vegetables, .when required for haricos 
 &c., paste-cutters, steak-tongs, &c., and 
 those insignificant, though useful little 
 articles, minute-glasses, to regulate the 
 boiling of an egg ; nor should a epice- 
 box, containing whole pepper, mace, nut- 
 megs, and cinnamon, be forgotten; to- 
 gether with various dried sweet herbs. 
 Scales, with weights from i oz. to 2 Ibs., 
 should be placed on the dresser, and the 
 weights carefully kept in regular order. 
 A set of tin measures with small spouts 
 or lips, and with the contents distinctly 
 marked upon them, from a gallon down 
 to half a gill, will also be found very con- 
 venient. It is likewise well to have a 
 set of wooden measures, from a bushel 
 to a quarter of a peck. 
 
 Let it be remembered, that, of liquid 
 
 measure 
 
124: 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 Two gills are half a pint. 
 Two pints are one quart. 
 Four quarts are one gallon. 
 
 
 
 Of dry measure 
 
 Half a gallon Is a quarter of a peck. 
 One gallon is half a peck. 
 Two gallons are one peek. 
 Four gallons are half a bushel. 
 Eight gallons are one bushel. 
 
 About twenty-five drops of any thin liquid will fill 
 a common-sized teaspoon. 
 
 A common tumbler holds half a pint. 
 
 Four tablespoonfuls, or hall' a gill, will fill a com- 
 mon wine-glass. * 
 
 Four wine-glasses will fill a half-pint or common 
 tumbler, or a large coffee-cup. 
 
 A quart black bottle holds in reality about a pint 
 and a half. 
 
 Of flour, butter, sugar, and most articles used in 
 cakes and pastry, a quart is generally about equal 
 in quantity to a pound avoirdupois (sixteen 
 'ounces). Avoirdupois is the weight designated 
 throughout this book. 
 
 Ten eggs generally weigh one pound before they 
 are broken. 
 
 A tablespoonful of salt or brown sugar is generally 
 about one ounce.* 
 
 Sieves, of various descriptions, are 
 very essential. Every utensil for cook- 
 ery should be of various sizes, so as to 
 suit the quantity of which the dishes 
 may be composed ; -and each should be 
 kept in a fixed place, as well as washed 
 nnd dried immediately after using. The 
 cook should also be charged to take care 
 of jelly-bags, tapes for the collared 
 
 * Mrs. Hale gives the 'following table, by which 
 persons not having scales and weights at hand may 
 readily measure the articles wanted to form any re- 
 ceipt, without the trouble of ^weighing. Allowance 
 to be made for an extraordinary dryncss or moisture 
 of the article weighed or measured. 
 
 WEIGHT AND MEASURE. 
 
 "Wheat flour .... 1 pound is 
 
 Indian meal .... 1 pound, 2 oz., 
 
 Butter, when soft . . 1 pound is . 
 
 Loaf sugar broken . . 1 pound is 
 
 "White sugar, powdered 1 pound, 1 oz., 
 
 Best brown sugar . . 1 pound, 2 oz.. i 
 
 E?ga 10 eggs are . 
 
 Flour ...... 8 quarts are . 
 
 Flourl ...... 4 pecks are . , 
 
 . 1 quart. 
 js 1 quart. 
 . 1 quart. 
 
 . 1 quart, 
 is 1 quart, 
 s 1 quart. 
 . 1 pound 
 
 . Ipeck. 
 . 1 bushel. 
 
 things, &c., which, if not perfectly scald- 
 ed and kept dry, give an unpleasant fla- 
 vor when next used. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 LIEBIG, in his work on ' : The Chemistry 
 of Food," says: "Among all the arts 
 known to man, there is none that enjoys 
 a juster appreciation, and the products 
 of which are more universally admired, 
 than that concerned in the preparation 
 of our food. Led by an instinct which 
 has almost reached the dignity of con- 
 scious knowledge, and by the sense of 
 taste which protects the health, the ex- 
 perienced cook, with respect to the 
 choice, admixture, and preparation of 
 food, has made acquisitions surpassing all 
 that chemical and physiological science 
 has done in regard to the doctrine or 
 theory of nutrition." 
 
 " I do not yet despair," says another 
 writer, "of seeing the day when the 
 culinary science, like others, will have 
 its qualified professors." **"The art of 
 cookery," another observes, " is the 
 analeptic part of the art of physic." Dr. 
 Mandeville says, " Physicians should be 
 good cooks, at least in theory." 
 
 Dr. Arbuthnot says " The choice 
 and measure of the materials of which 
 our body is composed of what we take 
 daily by pounds, is, at least, of as much 
 mportance as what we take seldom aftd 
 only by grains' and spoonfuls. Count 
 Rumford remarks : " In what 'art or 
 cience coiHd improvements be made 
 that would more powerfully contribute 
 :o increase the comforts and enjoyments 
 of mankind ? 
 
 A quaint writer says truly : " The 
 stomach is every man's master ; " and 
 Armstrong attributes to the good cook 
 the useful knowledge : 
 
COOKERY. 
 
 125 
 
 "How best the fickle fabric to support 
 Of mortal man ; in healthful body, how 
 A healthful mind the longest to maintain." 
 
 To prevent diseases is surely better 
 than to cure them. The French enjoy a 
 happy equilibrium of spirits more con- 
 stantly than any other nation ; Dr. 
 Kitchiner says, it is because " their elas- 
 tic stomachs, unimpaired by spirituous 
 liquors, digest vigorously the food they 
 render easily assimilable by cooking it 
 sufficiently; doing half the work of 
 digestion by fire and water, till 
 
 " The tender morsels on the palate melt, 
 And all the force of cookery is felt." 
 
 The cardinal virtues of cookery are 
 cleanliness, frugality, nourishment, and 
 palatableness. 
 
 The term " gourmand " or " epicure," 
 says a distinguished writer on the sub- 
 ject, is not synonymous with " glutton," 
 who eats as long as he can sit, like the 
 great eater of Kent, whom Fuller places 
 among his worthies ; telling us " he ate 
 thirty dozen pigeons at one meal ; at an- 
 other, four score rabbits, and eighteen 
 yards of black pudding, London meas- 
 ure :" nor does the term epicure suit a 
 fastidious appetite only excited by dain- 
 ties, such as the brains of peacocks or 
 parrots, the tongues of thrushes or 
 nightingales, &c. It mean's one who 
 has good sense and good taste enough to 
 relish food cooked according to scientific 
 principles ; so prepared that the palate 
 be not offended, and that it be rendered 
 easy of digestion. Thus the temperate 
 man is the greatest epicure ; for the per- 
 fection of enjoyment depends on the per- 
 fection of the faculties of mind and body. 
 
 The philosopher, Descartes, when a 
 cavilling Marquis said : " What, do you 
 philosophers eat dainties ?" replied, " Do 
 you think Providence made good things 
 only for fools !" Boswell says, Dr. John- 
 son had nice discernment in the science 
 of cookery, and talked of good eating 
 with uncommon satisfaction. 
 
 Boileau says, the Norman conqueror 
 William, bestowed portions of land on 
 lis favorite chief cook. The Doomsday 
 Book records a grant to Kobert Argyl- 
 .on. for the service of {t making in an 
 earthen pot, in the kitchen of our lord 
 the king, a mess called ' De la groute,' " 
 
 i kind of plum-porriclge on the day 
 of the coronation. This dish was served 
 to king George IV., at his coronation. 
 
 The luxury of different ages has fur- 
 nished many curiosities in cookery. 
 Among the ancients, a porpus and wild 
 boar were highly esteemed, and the swan 
 was a dish of state ; the crane was a 
 dainty in William the Conqueror's time ; 
 and seals, curlews, herons, bitterns, and 
 the peacock this last, 4 ' the food of lovers 
 and the meat of lords " were fashionable 
 at baronial entertainments. The peacock 
 was stuffed with spices and sweet herbs, 
 roasted and served whole ; after it was 
 dressed, being covered with the skin and 
 feathers, the tail spread, and the beak 
 and comb gilt. Some were covered with 
 leaf-gold. These birds adorned English 
 tables till the beginning of the seven- 
 teenth century. 
 
 The pie, full of living birds, was a fa- 
 vorite dish, and a common joke at old 
 English feasts. The dwarf, Jeffrey Hud- 
 son, was served up in a cold pie about 
 1630. before King Charles, at the Duke 
 of Buckingham's table. The baron of 
 beef was a favorite of old English hos- 
 pitality. Don Anthony, of Guevara, 
 chronicler to Charles V., says, he saw at 
 a feast, " a horse roasted, a cat in jelly, 
 lyzard in hot broth, and frogges fried, &c." 
 
 The Roman sauces described by Coelus 
 Apicius, a celebrated Roman . epicure, 
 who wrote a curious cookery book in 
 Latin, and invented a soup made of the 
 livers of a peculiar fish which sometimes 
 sold at the rate of sixty dollars the 
 pound would be hardly more palatable 
 to us than the black broth of the Spar- 
 tans which caused the citizens of Sybaris 
 
126 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 to wonder no longer why the Spartans 
 were so fearless of death. Yet one of 
 the receipts of Apicius required the death 
 of three or four dozen animals. The Es- 
 quimaux eat raw fish, and melted fat is 
 a delicacy among Arctic natives. Many 
 of the northern Indians *eat the intes- 
 tines and blood. Tartars feed on dogs, 
 and some of the natives of Australia, 
 New Holland, and other countries, were 
 wont to regale themselves upon ants and 
 worms, while mice were an African deli- 
 cacy. Norwegians mixed the powdered 
 bark of trees with meal to bake in cakes. 
 
 La Chapelle's Nouveau Cuisinier, pub- 
 lished in 1748, mentions the cooking of 
 a turkey in the shape of a football or a 
 hedgehog ; a shoulder of mutton in that 
 of a beehive ; an entree of pigeons in the 
 form of a spider or a frog. Such whim- 
 sical harlequinade has now become old- 
 fashioned, though the taste for decora- 
 tion remains. 
 
 By a strange misconception, cookery 
 has in all ages been intrusted to ignorant 
 persons, who practise it without refer- 
 ence to those general principles which 
 connect it with chemistry as much as- 
 other arts are allied to that science. Yet 
 in the days of the patriarchs, the prov- 
 ince of the cook, it seems, was not a ser- 
 vile one. A princess would not disdain to 
 dress the lamb her lord had killed and 
 brought from the flock. In Homer's 
 time kings and princes killed their own 
 cattle and cooked the flesh. 
 
 Perhaps the march of improvement 
 may induce professors of gastronomy to 
 elevate their calling by connecting its 
 practice with the principles of science. 
 The brewers and distillers of the present 
 day are philosophical chemists, under- 
 standing the principles on which they 
 act, and their processes are more certain, 
 economical, and manageable than for- 
 merly ; why may not cooks be philoso- 
 phers ? Why may not equal advantages 
 be derived from the application of sci- 
 
 ence to those arts which relate to the 
 management of solid sustenance ? 
 
 It has been said that the best books 
 on cookery have been written by medi- 
 cal men. 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 A GL08SAET OF FOREIGN TERMS USED 
 IN COOKERY. 
 
 FRENCH cookery is of so diverse a na- 
 ture that many volumes have already 
 been written upon the subject ; and new 
 modes of dressing the same things are so 
 constantly being invented, that we must 
 content ourselves with merely giving a 
 few explanations of the terms adopted by 
 most of our professed cooks. 
 
 Atelets. Small silver skewers. 
 
 Baba. A French sweet yeast cake. 
 
 Bain Marie. A flat vessel containing 
 boiling water, intended to hold also other 
 saucepans for the purpose either of cook- 
 ing or keeping their contents hot. The 
 Bain Marie is called in the English kitch- 
 en Beau Mere Pan. This term is old, 
 having its origin with the alchymists, 
 who, finding that sea- water boiled at a 
 high temperature, and did not evaporate so 
 quickly, used a pan containing sea-water ; 
 hence the term : Bain Marie ; or, Sea- 
 Water Bath. 
 
 Bard. A slice of thin bacon fat, used 
 for covering the breasts of birds, the 
 back of a hare, or any substance that re- 
 quires the assistance of fat where larding 
 is not preferred. 
 
 Beignet) or Fritter. Anything that 
 is enveloped in a casing of batter or 
 egg, and fried. Thus we have fritters of 
 fruit, vegetables, cream, &c. 
 
 Blanc. A white broth used to im- 
 prove the color of chickens, lamb, &c. 
 
 Blanch. To set anything on the fire in 
 
FOREIGN TERMS. 
 
 127 
 
 cold water, and when it boils strain it 
 off and plunge it into cold water. 
 
 Blanquettes. A kind of fricassee, 
 made of slices of white meat cut thin, 
 and warmed in white sauce thickened 
 with the yolk of eggs. 
 
 Bouilli. Beef very much boiled and 
 served with sauce. 
 
 Bouillon. The common soup of 
 France. 
 
 Bouquet. A bunch of parsley and 
 scallions tied up to put in soups, &c. 
 
 Bouquet garni, or Assaisonne. The 
 same, with the addition of cloves or aro- 
 matic herbs. 
 
 Bourguignote. A ragout of truffles. 
 Braise. This is a method of dress- 
 ing meat, poultry. &c., without evapora- 
 tion. It is done by lining a braising pan 
 with thin slices of bacon, beef, or veal ; 
 upon which place whatever you may in 
 tend to braise; and also add carrots, 
 onions, lemons, bay leaf, herbs, pepper, 
 and salt. 
 
 Brioche. A French yeast cake. 
 Buisson (en). A fanciful mode of 
 dressing up pastry, &c. 
 
 Callipanh. The glutinous meat of the 
 upper shell of a turtle. 
 
 Callipee. The glutinous meat of th< 
 under shell of a turtle. 
 
 Caramel. Sugar boiled down untl 
 the water is evaporated, and then formed 
 in ornamental devices for decorating 
 gateaux-baskets, &c. ' It is also used fo 
 coloring gravies when reduced almost t( 
 the burning point, and then dissolved in 
 water. Its use is not much to the credi 
 of the cook. 
 
 Capilotade. A hash of poultry. 
 Civet. A hash of game or wild fowl. 
 Compeigne. A French sweet yeas 
 cake, with fruit, &c. 
 
 Compotier. A dish in the dessert ser 
 vice purposely for the compote. 
 
 Couronne (en). To serve any pre- 
 scribed articles on a dish in the form of 
 crown. 
 
 Court or short, to stew. The reduction 
 f a sauce until it becomes very thick. 
 
 Croutons. Bread cut in various shapes 
 nd fried lightly in butter or oil. 
 
 Casserole. A rice-crust moulded in 
 he form of a pie; when baked, filled 
 with a mince or puree of game, or witt 
 llanquette of white meat. Also a 
 tewpan. 
 
 Compote. Stewed fruits served with 
 yrup. There are also compotes of 
 igeons and other small birds. 
 
 Consomme is a strong clear gravy, 
 Irawn from the long stewing of any 
 tind of meat, to be either used as broth, 
 >r made into soups and sauces. 
 
 Coulis, or cullis, is a rich brown gravy *. 
 commonly used for the purpose of color- 
 ng as well as thickening and flavoring 
 many sorts of soups and sauces. It is 
 made 'in various ways, chiefly upon a 
 bundation of ham and veal, slices of 
 which are put into* a closely covered 
 stewpan, with only a small quantity of 
 water, and boiled over a brisk fire until 
 the whole becomes brown and thick. See 
 Sauces. 
 
 Croquettes. A mince of either fish, 
 meat, or poultry, made very savory, with 
 
 small quantity of sauce, formed into 
 shapes of any kind, rolled in egg and 
 bread-crumbs, and fried crisp. 
 
 Croustades, or Dresden patties, made 
 of paste or bread baked in small moulds, 
 and filled with mince of any kind. 
 
 Dorez.To wash pastry, &c., with 
 yolk of egg well beaten. 
 
 Dorure. Yolks of eggs well beaten. 
 
 u En papillate. " White paper is 
 greased with oil or butter, and then 
 folded over a cutlet or small fish, fasten- 
 ing it by screwing the paper at the 
 
 Entremets. Small ornamental dishes 
 served in the second and third courses. 
 
 Entree. A corner dish for the first 
 course. In large dinners the side dishes 
 are called Jlancs. 
 
128 
 
 THE PRACTICAL .HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 . An expensive, highly 
 flavored, mixed ragout. 
 
 Flan. A French custard. 
 
 Farce. Forcemeat. 
 
 Faggot. A small bunch of parsley 
 and thyme and a bay-leaf tied up. 
 
 Fricandeaux may be made of any 
 boned piece of veal, in pieces of not more 
 than two or three Ibs. weight, chiefly cut 
 from that portion of the fillet which 
 we have described as the thick part. 
 It is a frequent dish as an entree at 
 good tables, and requires great care to 
 serve in perfection. 
 
 Gateau. A cake or pudding. 
 
 Glaze (to). To reduce sauces to a 
 jelly, that they will adhere to the meal. 
 
 Glace or Glaze. Stock boiled down 
 to a consistency, and used to improve 
 the appearance of all braised dishes ; it 
 should be warmed hi the bain-marie, and 
 applied with a brush. 
 
 Glaze, Glace Ice, is composed of white 
 of egg beaten with powdered sugar. 
 
 Godiveau. A common veal forcemeat. 
 
 Gras (an), means that the article 
 is dressed with meat gravy. 
 
 Gratin. A layer of any article in- 
 tended for this purpose is spread over a 
 dish that will bear the fire, and is placed 
 on a stove or hot ashes until it burns. 
 
 Hors d'auvre. A small dish served 
 during the first course. 
 s Lard (to). To stick bacon, or what- 
 ever meat may be named, into poultry, 
 meat, &c. It is accomplished with a lard- 
 ing pin, one end of which is square and. 
 one hollow. The lardon is put into this 
 hollow, the point is then inserted in the 
 meat, and on being drawn through leaves 
 the bacon or lardon standing in its pro- 
 per place. 'It requires practice to do 
 this well. 
 
 Lardon. The pieces into which bacon 
 or other meats are cut for the purpose 
 of lardir.g. 
 
 Liaison. A finish with yolks of eggs 
 and cream for ragouts and sauces. 
 
 Madeleines. Cakes made of the samo 
 composition as pound cakes. 
 
 Maigre (au). Soups, &c., dressed 
 without meat. 
 
 Mask. To cover completely. 
 
 Marinade. A liquor prepared foi 
 boiling or stewing fish or meat in : it ia 
 sometimes used cold. 
 
 Meringue. A very light preparation, 
 made of sugar and whites of eggs beaten 
 to snow. 
 
 Matelote. A rich stew of fish with 
 wine. 
 
 Miroton consists of small slices of meat 
 cut thin, and not larger than a crown- 
 piece, and made into various sorts of 
 ragouts ; and dished up in a circular form. 
 
 Nouilles. An Italian paste resembling 
 macaroni, but flat instead of being in pipes. 
 
 Panada. Bread soaked in milk, used 
 principally for quenelles and fine farces. 
 
 Passer. To fry lightly. 
 
 Pate. A raised crust pie. 
 
 Poelee. A light braise for white meats ; 
 the difference between this and the braise 
 is that in the former, the meat, or what- 
 ever it may be, need not be so much dona 
 as the latter. 
 
 Potane. A term for soup. 
 
 The Pot-au-feu is truly the foundation 
 of all good cookery, and of that we shall 
 treat rather largely in our chapters on 
 soups and sauces. 
 
 Puree. A culinary operation which 
 should be carefully attended to, and 
 which, although known for preparing 
 potted meats and fish, is seldom employ- 
 ed by common cooks in any thing but 
 pea-soup. It consists in either pounding 
 the meat or fish in a mortar until it be- 
 comes a paste, or in stewing roots or 
 pulse in boiling water until they are 
 softened into a thick pulp, when they 
 are passed, first through a colander, or 
 through a puree presser, and afterwards 
 through a wire or hair sieve, and 
 being thinned with broth, may be form- 
 ed into soups of various sorts. 
 
FOREIGN TERMS. CONDIMENTS. 
 
 129 
 
 Quenelles and Godiveaux are different 
 sorts of forcemeat, composed of meat or 
 fish, with bread and yolk of egg, and fat 
 of some kind ; seasoned in various ways, 
 and either spread upon rolled meat, or 
 formed into balls and fried as garnish to 
 entrees, or served separately as entrees. 
 
 To make Quenelles. When the force- 
 meat is made, take two tablespoons, fill 
 one with the meat, dip a knife in hot water, 
 with which smooth it over ; then dip the 
 other spoon into boiling water, and with 
 it remove the meat from the first spoon, 
 and slip it into a buttered stewpan ; so 
 on until you have the number you want : 
 then cover them with stock, and boil 
 them about ten minutes, or until firm, 
 and they are fit for use. For small 
 quenelles use teaspoons. 
 
 Rissole. A mince of meat or fish, en- 
 closed in paste, or made up into shapes 
 or balls in the manner of minced collops, 
 and used either as side-dishes, or as a 
 garnish for stews or hashes, now more 
 elegantly termed fricassees and ragouts. 
 
 Roux. A thickening for white soups 
 or gravy, made of flour and butter. 
 
 Salmis. A hash made of game, which 
 is cut up when only half roasted ; where- 
 as a hash is made from dressed game. 
 Sauter. To fry very lightly. 
 Sabotiere or Saubetiire. A pewter or 
 tin vessel in which are placed the moulds 
 containing whatever is intended to be 
 frozen. 
 
 Tourner or turn. To stir a sauce 
 also to pare and cut roots, vegetables 
 and fruits very neatly. 
 
 Tamfa, or u tammy," a strainer of thin 
 woollen canvas, or silk, used for straining 
 soups and sauces. 
 
 Tourte.K kind of tart baked in a 
 shallow tin. 
 
 Vanner. To take up sauce or am 
 other liquid in a spoon and turn it ove: 
 very quickly. 
 
 Veloute. For heightening the flavor 
 of soups, made dishes, &c. 
 
 Vol-au-vent. An extremely light puff 
 raste, in which are enclosed minces of 
 weetbread, poultry, game, &c. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 CONDIMENTS. 
 
 THERE is one class of materials in con- 
 tant use in the kitchen: the condi- 
 ments ; without these, soups, sauces, and 
 ,11 made dishes, would be insipid ; and 
 the judicious application of them is es- 
 sential. 
 
 If all kinds of condiments were of the 
 same quality that is, if all salt, pepper, 
 and mustard, &c., were alike, receipts 
 might be given as in a Pharmacopoeia, 
 with distinct measures for each ; but as 
 nothing differs so much as these simple 
 ondiments, everything must be left to 
 the palate of the cook, and on him or 
 her alone depends the flavor of the ali- 
 mentary substances partaken of. 
 
 Of all condiments, that in most gene- 
 ral use is SALT ; the health of every indi- 
 vidual depends upon it, and it is as much 
 required as food or drink. Even on 
 those continents far away from the 
 shores washed by the briny ocean, we 
 find it in springs, and in crystal globules 
 encrusting the earth. 
 
 It is chemically known as chloride of 
 sodium, being a combination of chlorine 
 and sodium. Its use as an antiseptic, 
 and as a condiment, is too well known to 
 be repeated here. 
 
 Bock Salt is the unpurified salt, as dug 
 from the mines. This is purified by boil- 
 ing, &c., and crystallized by heat. 
 
 Bay Salt is the coarse large crystal 
 salt, taking its name from the salt that 
 formerly was made in pits by the over- 
 flow or letting in of the sea at the head 
 of Bays, and which was evaporated by 
 the heat of the sun. Almost all the fish 
 
130 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 cured in France at the present day is done 
 by this kind of salt, the duty upon foreign 
 salt being so high. 
 
 PEPPER, so extensively used at pres- 
 ent in Europe, may be said to be a mod- 
 ern invention. Before the introduction 
 of pepper, many plants, such as saffron, 
 &c., were used, until this West Indian 
 fruit became more general and easy 
 to obtain.* The plant is a climbing one 
 (piper nigrum,} and exceedingly pretty 
 when in fruit. The berry is gathered 
 with the skin or pulp around the stone, 
 and that which is intended for black pep- 
 per is allowed to remain thus, while for 
 white pepper it is blanched and rubbed 
 until the skin comes off. In all dark 
 sauces use the black pepper. 
 
 LONG PEPPER, the fruit of the piper 
 longum, is a plant very similar to the for<- 
 mer, and, if possible, it has a more aro- 
 matic flavor than the black pepper. 
 
 I doubt if pepper was known to the 
 Romans. If so, it would have been 
 known in Egypt, where we find no trace 
 of it, although some authors have consid- 
 ered it as the ammonium of the an- 
 cients. 
 
 ALLSPICE, or, as it was formerly called, 
 Pimenta, is another of those productions 
 of the climes near the Equator, which 
 has come much into use by Europeans. 
 It is the fruit of the pimento, vulgar is. 
 That which is the freshest is the best ; 
 as the aromatic oil which it contains is 
 not dissipated by keeping. The essential 
 oil it contains can be used in very small 
 quantities in cookery, but should not be 
 subjected to long boiling, or it loses its 
 flavor. 
 
 * It is a singular circumstance, that this very 
 email fruit should be the cause of England's possess- 
 ing one of the largest portions of her dominions. 
 In the reign of Elizabeth, and during the war with 
 Spain, pepper, which had then become an article of 
 necessity, rose to an extravagant price, and to ob- 
 tain it cheaper, the Queen granted Letters Patent 
 to certain merchants to trade to the East Indies, 
 which was tho origin of the present East India 
 Company. 
 
 GINGER is the root of a plant, a na- 
 tive of the East Indies and Brazils, and 
 also naturalized in the "West India 
 [slands % The plant grows in moist places, 
 and is of a reed-like form, bearing a yel- 
 ow flower. The root, when fresh, should 
 DC of a light green, solid and heavy. A 
 spongy or woolly root should be avoided. 
 The virtues of ginger chiefly consist in a 
 volatile oil which it possesses. This is 
 best obtained by bruising the root, and 
 making an infusion in spirits of wine or 
 boiling water in a closed bottle ; or, if 
 thinly sliced and infused in vinegar, it is 
 pleasant in a salad. It is usually em- 
 ployed in cookery by having the root 
 desiccated by the heat of the sun until 
 perfectly dry and hard, and then pow- 
 dered till its aromatic oil is lost. It 
 should be more frequently used in cook- 
 ry, and as a condiment as well as for 
 dessert. ^ 
 
 CLOVES are the buds of a flower, not 
 arrived at maturity, of an East Indian 
 tree, called caryophillus aromaticus. 
 This, in common with many other buds 
 of flowers of various kinds, contains a 
 large quantity of essential oil. It has a 
 very pungent, aromatic smell. Its na- 
 ture is stimulating. It should not be 
 boiled too long, or its flavor is lost in 
 evaporation. 
 
 NUTMEG is the interior of a fruit be- 
 longing to a tree, a native of the Islands 
 of the Eastern Archipelago, called Banda, 
 and known in botany as the myristica 
 moscTiata. It is strongly aromatic, and 
 very volatile, and considered agreeable. 
 It is used in powder, and not subjected to 
 much heat, which would cause it to lose 
 its qualities. 
 
 MACE. This is the skin which covers 
 the shell containing the nutmeg. It is 
 cut into small pieces and dried. This is 
 more frequently used in cookery than 
 the nutmeg, as its essential oil and aro- 
 matic flavor are not so soon evaporated. 
 
 CAYENNE is the dried pod of a well- 
 
CONDIMENTS. 
 
 131 
 
 known plant, the capsicum, now so often 
 reared in hot-houses. It is a native of 
 the East and West Indies, and South 
 America. It is of a very pungent nature, 
 and a strongly acrid flavor. The best is 
 of an orange color. There are several 
 kinds of capsicums ; the capsicum annuum 
 or annual capsicum ; the capsicum gros- 
 sum, or hell pepper; and the capsicum 
 cerasiforme, or cherry pepper. The pods 
 of these are frequently pickled. The es- 
 sence of cayenne, by infusing in alcohol, 
 is a very excellent seasoning. - 
 
 C INNAMON is the under-bark of a tree, 
 the laurus cinnamomum : a species of bay, 
 with leaves like laurel, found in many 
 East India Islands, but chiefly in Ceylon. 
 It possesses a very fine aromatic flavor 
 and smell. The essential oil, when ex- 
 tracted, is better to use than the bark 
 itself. 
 
 This tree bears a fruit similar in shape 
 to the acorn, but smaller. It has neither 
 smell nor taste ; but, boiled in water, 
 yields an oil which, on becoming cold, is 
 as hard as tallow : it is used as an oint- 
 ment, and also to burn. The outside of 
 the root of this tree yields camphor and 
 oil of camphor. 
 
 C ASS i A is also a bark of a similar kind 
 of tree to the cinnamon ; the laurus cas- 
 sia. It does not contain so much flavor 
 as cinnamon ; but the aromatic qualities 
 are very similar. Its oil is often sold for 
 that of cinnamon. 
 
 CASSIA BUDS are the pods of the seed 
 of the cinnamon tree. They contain an 
 oil equal in flavor and pungency to the 
 cinnamon. They are not often used in 
 cookery, their value not being generally 
 known. 
 
 MUSTARD is the powder of the seed of 
 the plant, the sinapis nigra. It grows 
 wild in many places, and can be cultivat 
 ed in almost any soil. It is of a strong 
 pungent nature, and is difficult to concen 
 trate. It should be mixed with cold 
 water and salt. It derives its name from 
 
 tie French moutarde, who derive it from 
 he Latin of multum ardet, which be- 
 ame corrupted into moult arde. In 
 ranee they prepare it in a variety of 
 ways. Mustard is a condiment easily 
 dulterated; and particular care should 
 >e used in its selection. 
 
 IOXS, a bulbous root, so much used 
 n cookery, is a native of this country. 
 5y some it is eaten in the raw state ; and 
 f partaken of freely, its effects pervade 
 ,he whole system, and the person who 
 uses them may be known at some dis- 
 ance, from the peculiar odor which be- 
 ongs to the root Its moderate use is 
 wholesome. It is also good against 
 many diseases of the skin; but should 
 never be eaten too freely by weak stom- 
 achs. There are several sorts. The com- 
 mon, called the allium cepa; the GAR- 
 LIO, allium stamum ; the SHALOT, allium 
 iscalonicum ; the LEEK, the allium por- 
 um; the ROCAMBOLE, the allium scordo- 
 prasum; the CHIVE, the allium chosno- 
 prasum. The manner of using them is 
 described briefly in the various receipts. 
 
 Onions have been used in cookery from 
 a very early period; and in Spain and 
 Portugal form the principal food of the 
 lower classes being, from the nature of 
 the climate, much milder than in this 
 country. 
 
 The next articles among the condi- 
 ments are the herbs; among these, 
 MAEJOEAM is that most in use ; it is an 
 herb which contains a large quantity of 
 what may be called essential oil, which is 
 extracted in cooking, and imparts its 
 flavor to the viands in which it may be 
 used. There are several kinds of mar- 
 joram hi use, but that known as the pot 
 marjoram, origanum onites, when well 
 cultivated, is the best for general use; 
 there is the sweet marjoram, origanum 
 marjorana ; the winter sweet marjoram, 
 origanum heracloticum ; and the com- 
 mon marjoram, origanum vulgare. The 
 essence of this herb may be used in 
 
132 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER 
 
 cookery; the more common plan is to 
 dry it for use, but it should be used fresh 
 when it can be procured. 
 
 SAVOEY. There are two kinds, the 
 winter and summer ; the latter contains 
 the most flavor it can be easily dried 
 and bottled for keeping. 
 
 BASIL is also an herb in great use ; it 
 grows to great perfection if well cultivat- 
 ed. Its aromatic smell is very similar 
 to cloves : there are two kinds, the sweet 
 basil, ocymum ~basilicum; and the least 
 basil, ocymum minimum. The first has 
 the best flavor and smell. 
 
 THYME. There are two, the lemon, 
 tJiymus citriodorus, and the common 
 thyme, thymus vulgar is ; the first is the 
 best to use in all dishes wherever this 
 herb is required. 
 
 PENNYBOYAL is not much in use in 
 cookery, but can be used where mint can- 
 not be had. 
 
 MINT Spearmint or common mint is 
 that most in use ; it should never be 
 used in large quantities. Some of it in- 
 fused in vinegar, and the vinegar after- 
 wards used with a salad, gives a fine flavor 
 and a novelty to that dish, and it is used 
 in vinegar with lamb. 
 
 SAGE is an important herb, and by 
 many considered an agreeable condiment ; 
 there are several kinds; that whose 
 leaves have a purple tinge is considered 
 best for culinary use. 
 
 PARSLEY, although at present so prom- 
 inent in use in our kitchens, was un- 
 known to our forefathers; it is only 
 within a century that it has become so 
 general : it was introduced into England 
 from Italy. There are three varieties, 
 the common or plain-leaved, the curled 
 or double-leaved, and the broad-leaved ; 
 the curled is the best-looking, but has 
 not so much flavor as the common ; the 
 broad-leaved is used for its root, which 
 is excellent cut up thinly in soup. &c. It 
 may be obtained all the year. To keep 
 
 it well, it should be dried and cut up, 
 and placed in well corked bottles, but 
 should only be used when fresh cannot 
 be procured. 
 
 TABEAGON is not so much used as it 
 ought to be ; if used more in soup, in- 
 stead of the stronger herbs, it would be 
 liked ; but great care must be observed, 
 as its aromatic qualities are quickly dis- 
 sipated by heat. It is a native of the 
 north of Europe, and known in botany 
 as the artemisia dracuriculus. 
 
 CLARY* is a plant of the sage kind ; its 
 leaves are sometimes used to flavor 
 soups, and it is liked by a few. 
 
 FENNEL may be used often with ad- 
 vantage ; it is, however, rarely used but 
 with fish. 
 
 CELERY, now grown to such perfection, 
 is the cultivated wild plant known as 
 smallage. Celery is a great deal used in 
 cookery^ but it should not be subjected 
 to too long boiling ; if its flavor is re- 
 quired, and no root to be obtained, the 
 seed of the smallage can be used instead. 
 It is geneiwlly supposed that the roots 
 and leaves of smallage are poisonous; 
 we would not recommend them to be 
 used, as the seed can always be obtained, 
 and the flavor is finer. The salts of 
 celery is a modern improvement, and a 
 great addition to our culinary condi- 
 ments. 
 
 BORAGE is not much used in cookery ; 
 its flavor is slightly bitter, and it is some- 
 times used to flavor ale, cider, &c., for a 
 summer drink. 
 
 HORSE-RADISH is the root of a plant ; 
 the aroma which it contains is quickly 
 dissipated by heat it is therefore used 
 in a raw state by being grated ; an es- 
 sence may be obtained by infusion with 
 spirits of wine, which, added to mustard 
 after it is made, gives it an agreeable 
 ffcivor. 
 
 CHERVIL is getting more into use 
 every day ; its flavor is exceedingly pleas- 
 
CONDIMENTS. 
 
 133 
 
 ant, and can be employed in soups and 
 salads, especially in made dishes, with 
 the greatest advantage. 
 
 CAPERS are the buds of a small trail- 
 ing shrub, a native of the south of Eu- 
 rope ; those grown on the Rock of Gib- 
 raltar are considered the finest in the 
 world. They are very excellent with 
 almost all boiled meats, fish, and salads. 
 
 BROOM BUDS, when pickled, sometimes 
 replace capers. 
 
 NASTURTIUMS are sometimes used in 
 the place of capers, being pickled in the 
 same way, but they have not the least 
 resemblance; they may be used for 
 salads. The flower of the nasturtium is 
 a very pretty decoration for boiled fish 
 and salads. 
 
 BAE BERRIES are the fruit of a plant ; 
 some centuries since, they appear to have 
 been often used, but more modern im- 
 portations have superseded them; they 
 have a very acid flavor, and, if pickled, 
 could enter into the composition of many 
 dishes, and also make a good preserve. 
 
 GHERKINS are the young cucumber, or 
 often the fruit of the uncultivated plant ; 
 they are almost always pickled, and are 
 an elegant addition to all salads and 
 many entrees. 
 
 BEET-ROOT is a root of a plant which 
 of late years has been extensively culti- 
 vated for the purpose of feeding cattle ; 
 the color which it possesses is easily ex- 
 tracted, for the purpose of tinting vari- 
 ous articles employed in cookery. When 
 boiled, it is a beautiful addition to every 
 salad. 
 
 MUSHROOMS are greatly used in domes- 
 tic cookery, and are a general favorite ; 
 their liquor, when extracted with salt, 
 becomes a condiment known under the 
 name of Ketchup, very extensively em- 
 ployed in cookery ; this may be consider- 
 ed wholesome, as it is known to facilitate 
 the digestion. The largest are the best 
 to produce the ketchup, and the small 
 button ones to use in dishes ; they should 
 9 
 
 be nicely trimmed, and put into a jar 
 with lemon-juice to blanch them ; should 
 )e submitted to very little heat or their 
 delicacy will be lost, and nothing but a 
 tough substance left to eat. 
 
 TRUFFLE is, without doubt, a modern 
 ntroduction. So late as the year 1720, 
 m the regency of Louis XV., we first 
 near of its being used,, when Dubois, the 
 minister, introduced it at his dinners, 
 the Duke of Orleans gave it to his mis- 
 resses, and the gallants of the day 
 brought it into notice in their nocturnal 
 repasts. 
 
 It was at this period that the science 
 of cookery made such rapid improve- 
 ment in France, and when extravagance 
 n the preparation of the repasts was 
 carried to the highest point ; this was a 
 period when l "non ex pane solo vivit 
 homo." Many of the sauces first discov- 
 d at that period have descended to the 
 present day such as Soubise and Bech- 
 amel, named after the noblemen who first 
 partook of them. Then it was that the 
 celebrated ' Dinde aux Truffes" (turkey 
 with truffles) first made its appearance. 
 Since this period, the truffle has been 
 considered the <; to kalon " of condiments, 
 and as the indispensable ornament of all 
 banquets; or, as Brillat Savarin says, 
 " La truffe est le diamant de la cuisine." 
 
 Within the last half century, the place 
 (Perigord) which produces the finest of 
 these roots, produced the first of diplo- 
 matists namely, Talleyrand, who was at 
 the same time a great gourmet. The lo- 
 cality may have nad its influence ; cer- 
 tain it is he would never give a decision 
 upon any momentous question until after 
 dinner, and having partaken of his favor- 
 ite dish, Truife aux Vin de Champagne. 
 They are a species of fungus, tube, or 
 root, generally found within a few inches 
 of the surface of the earth, and under 
 oak trees ; known also as the subterra- 
 nean "puff-ball," tula nibarium. The 
 best are supposed to come from " Peri- 
 
134: 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 gord,' the next from Angoulme these 
 are black ; the white come from Pied- 
 mont, and the Carolinas ; they ought to 
 be eaten fresh. On the European conti- 
 nent, they are found by means of dogs 
 and pigs, trained on purpose. 
 
 They should not be subjected to too 
 long boiling, as the aroma is very vola- 
 tile. 
 
 BAY is the leaf of a species of laurel, 
 but in using it care must be taken that 
 the leaf of the bay-laurel, or cherry- 
 laurel, (prunus laurocerasus,) is not used 
 for it, as it contains prussic acid. This is a 
 common evergreen in the southern States. 
 The bay or sweet bay, (laurus nobilis,) 
 an evergreen of the South of Europe, may 
 be used to great advantage in cookery, 
 as it imparts an agreeable and aromatic 
 flavor, differing very widely from any 
 spices that can be used for the same pur- 
 poses. It is cultivated extensively in 
 gardens, and should be used according to 
 the directions given in the receipts. 
 
 SAFFRON was formerly that is, in the 
 fourteenth century much used in cook- 
 ery in Europe. It has bulbous roots, like 
 the onion and flowers ; the fibres grow 
 from the botton of the bulb, having roots 
 with coats or skin one over the other, 
 and bears naked flowers without stem. 
 At present it is only used in the kitchen 
 for the purpose of coloring. In Portu- 
 gal, Spain, and Turkey, it is used at the 
 present day to a great extent. 
 
 ANGELICA, a condiment much used in 
 the confectionery department of the kitch- 
 
 a climbing plant like ivy, having a large 
 leaf and black flower, which leaves a 
 pod containing black peas ; the form of 
 the pod is like a scimitar, from which it 
 takes its name, being in Spanish var- 
 garila. * 
 
 When covered with tin-foil, and kept 
 in a moist place, it will become covered 
 with flakes of silver. It denotes the 
 best quality, and is fit for use ; it will do 
 to be infused several times. 
 
 SUGAR is the concentrated juice of a 
 plant which grows in hot cli ma.es, and 
 is also to be obtained from other trees 
 and vegetables, especially from beet-root. 
 It is used very extensively in cookery, 
 imparting a mellow flavor to all di.shes ; 
 it is of an antiseptic nature, and ought to 
 be employed more abundantly in preserv- 
 ing animal substances than it is. This 
 condiment was unknown to the ancients, 
 who employed honey in place of it. 
 
 ORANGE is the fruit of a tree originally 
 a native of China, but now grown exten- 
 sively in all warm climates. The juice 
 of this fruit is a sweet acid, differing 
 greatly in flavor from the lemon ; its peel 
 is of use in cookery. The Seville and 
 Malta oranges are a variety of this 
 fruit. 
 
 ORANGE-FLOWER, a distillation from 
 the flower, is used a great deal in cookery. 
 
 VERJUICE is the juice of a grape of that 
 name, and on the European continent 
 
 was used to a great extent, until the in- 
 troduction of the lemon. The grape is 
 gathered unripe, pressed, allowed to fer- 
 en. is the stalk of a plant like celery, ment, and then put into large vats to 
 which grows in gardens, and is also found ! mature ; the older it is, the better the 
 wild. When gathered, it is dried, pre- ' flavor. It enters into the composition 
 served, and candied. Rouen, in France, 
 
 is very celebrated for it. 
 
 of several of the sauces in use at the pres- 
 ent day ; if pure, it m&y be preferable 
 VANILLA is used chiefly to impart fla- for several dishes to vinegar. 
 Vor to various articles in confectionery; it | OLIVE is a fruit not much used in 
 h^s also a very agreeable smell, which ! cookery ; it grows on a low tree with 
 has caused it to be used in scenting dif- I long narrow leaves, rough underneath ; 
 ferent perfumes, and thus diminished its j the fruit contains a long and small ker- 
 use in the kitchen. It is the produce of [ nel j the fruit, when pressed, yields the 
 
CONDIMENTS. 
 
 135 
 
 oil known as olive oil. This is a most 
 
 valuable article in cookery ; it ought to 
 
 be tasteless and inodorous, but when long 
 
 exposed to the air becomes rank and un- 
 fit for use. 
 
 ARROW-ROOT is the powder of the root 
 
 of a tree growing in very warm and 
 
 moist climates, of about two to three 
 
 feet in height, known in botany as the 
 
 maranta arundinarea. In some coun- 
 tries, the flour of this root is mixed with 
 
 that of Indian corn, and makes excellent 
 
 bread. It is produced in the same way 
 
 as the starch from potatoes. 
 
 TAPIOCA is also a starch, produced 
 
 from the roots of a Brazilian plant called 
 
 Cassava, a very elegant but poisonous 
 
 plant, with beautiful white and pink 
 
 flowers. It is now in general use, as it 
 
 is found, when mixed with a little wine 
 
 or spirits, to be an excellent stimulant to 
 
 an invalid, without possessing any heat- 
 ing qualities. It should be well washed 
 
 in water, and boiled until it becomes 
 
 transparent, when it should be well 
 
 stirred, and whatever is required to be 
 
 mixed with it should be added. It will, 
 
 when mixed with other flour, make very 
 
 good bread. 
 
 SALSOP is another root of a plant called 
 
 orchis morio, a native of the East, where 
 
 it is used as an article of food to a greal 
 
 extent; it is reduced to powder, anc 
 
 readily dissolves in boiling water. It is 
 a light, pleasant drink, and, to persons 
 of a feverish constitution, is exceedingly 
 wholesome. 
 
 SAGO is another of these starches 
 similar to Tapioca, made from the pith 
 of the palm-tree, a native of the Indies 
 It is prepared precisely in the same 
 as Tapioca. 
 
 SOY is obtained from the seed or frui 
 
 of an Indian plant, called doliclios soja, \ antiseptic liquor can be produced from 
 or soya; it is made like ketchup; it I all herbs, plants, vegetables, and iTts, 
 enters greatly into use in the variety of [ which produce sugar, and even t 
 sauces that are made for the table, being ; gular production of nature kno* 
 of a very strong, sweet-bitter taste ; it | honey, and of which the juices will go 
 
 hould be used in moderation in cook- 
 - 
 
 CHETNEY is a production of the East 
 ndies, which, of late years, has come 
 onsiderably into use; it is made by 
 mixing together a variety of fruits, and 
 llowing them to ferment until they be- 
 ome acid : some spices are then mixgd 
 with them and it is bottled for use ; the 
 Ider it is, the better it becomes. That 
 made in the Vale of Cashmere is con- 
 sidered the best. 
 
 CURRY-POWDER is another of those 
 ndian condiments which have latterly 
 come much into use, and it is only to be 
 regretted that it is not cheaper, to allow 
 t to be more generally used, as it is one 
 of those stimulating condiments which 
 would be invaluable to the poor ; its use 
 would prevent the habit of taking other 
 stimulants which produce intoxication. 
 
 LEMON is the fruit of a tree, a native 
 of the South of Europe and the Indies j 
 it is a most valuable production, not only 
 for cookery, but for the health of the 
 human race. Its juice, when diluted 
 with water, and sweetened, makes a 
 most refreshing and wholesome drink. 
 The peel contains an essential oil. which 
 imparts a strong pungent flavor to those 
 dishes to which it is added. The true 
 flavor of this fruit can only be had when 
 fresh and ripe. In the time of Henry 
 VIII., this fruit was a great rarity, and 
 was partaken of at dessert with a quan- 
 tity of sugar mixed with it. 
 
 The LIME is a species of lemon, the 
 juice of which is more acid. 
 
 The CITRON is also another species ; 
 the juice is sweeter. 
 
 VINEGAR derives its name from the 
 French tin aigre, or sour wine, and is 
 known in chemistry as acetic acid. This 
 
136 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 into fermentation. These juices, when 
 first expressed, are called wine, or syrup ; 
 they undergo a fermentation known as 
 the vinous, after which, when exposed to 
 a certain degree of heat, they enter into 
 the acetous fermentation, and produce 
 that acid pungent liquor known as vine- 
 gar. Of late years, it has also been pro- 
 duced by the distillation of wood, more 
 particularly oak, and known aspyrcligne- 
 ous acid, which is intensely acid, and 
 highly stimulating. When employed in 
 cookery, it should be used judiciously, 
 and with great care. The best vinegar 
 is that which contains the least vegetable 
 matter, such as coloring, &c., and which 
 has the strongest acid taste, without 
 being hot. 
 
 The different flavored vinegars may be 
 made by infusion, without the aid of 
 heat, of the different substances from 
 which the flavor is required. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVH. 
 
 RUDIMENTS OF COOKERY. 
 
 A FEW simple general directions, on a 
 subject of so much importance to family 
 and individual comfort as cooking, will 
 be found useful, even though there be 
 some repetition in subsequent instruc- 
 tions. 
 
 The kitchen should be furnished with 
 long and round tables; a dresser with 
 shelves serving as a plate rack ; closets 
 or cupboards, common chairs, benches, 
 wooden stools and sinks. Towel rollers, 
 plate warmers, a weighing machine, speak- 
 ing tubes a dumb waiter, a refrigerator, 
 hot water dishes, and dish covers of wire 
 gauze, are also among the indispensables. 
 The fireplace should have 'plenty of light. 
 The chief object of cookery is to make 
 the meat tender and easy of digestion, 
 without depriving it of its juices. Solid 
 food, especially plain roast or boiled meat, 
 
 requires to be well adapted to the diges- 
 tive powers ; for it is trying to many con- 
 stitutions, and health is often injured by 
 dining upon improperly cooked u plain 
 joints." Butchers meat, when brought 
 from market, should be examined, trim- 
 med, and wiped clean ; sprinkled in sum- 
 mer with a little salt and pepper, and hung 
 up. Mutton and veal must be taken 
 down and wiped each day. Venison is 
 hung some time before cooking, and 
 should be wiped dry and dredged with 
 ginger or pepper, to prevent the fly from 
 settling on it ; the dredging wiped off be- 
 fore cooking. We will take up the sim- 
 ple culinary processes in turn. 
 
 Boiling. This is seldom done proper- 
 ly ; the error most common among Ameri- 
 can cooks is that of boiling meat fast over 
 a strong fire, which renders it hard and 
 nearly tasteless ; whereas, a gentle sim- 
 mering for nearly double the time, with 
 half the quantity of fuel and water, will 
 better accomplish the purpose. 
 
 For instance : the most common, and al- 
 most universal dish throughout France, is 
 a large piece of plainly boiled fresh beef, 
 from which the soup or " pot age" as it is 
 there called has been partly made, and 
 which is separately served up as " bouilli" 
 accompanied by strong gravy and minced 
 vegetables, or stewed cabbage. Now this, 
 as constantly dressed in the French mode, 
 is ever delicate both in libre and flavor ; 
 while, in the English manner of boiling 
 it, it is always hard and insipid. The 
 reason of which, as explained by that 
 celebrated cook, Careme. who superin- 
 tended the kitchen of His Majesty George 
 IV.. is this : ' The meat, instead of being 
 put down to boil, as in the English meth- 
 od, is in France put in the pot with the 
 usual quantity of cold water, and placed 
 at the corner of the fireplace, where, slow- 
 ly becoming hot, the heat gradually 
 swells the muscular fibres of the beef, 
 dissolving the gelatinous substances there- 
 in contained, and disengaging that portioc 
 
RUDIMENTS OF COOKERY. 
 
 137 
 
 which chemists term 'osmazome,' and 
 which imparts savor to the flesh thus 
 both rendering the meat tender and pala- 
 table, and the broth relishing and nutri- 
 tive ; while, on the contrary, if the pot 
 be inconsiderately put upon too quick a 
 fire, the boiling is precipitated, the fibre 
 coagulates and hardens, the osmazome is 
 hindered from disengaging itself, and 
 thus nothing is obtained but a piece of 
 tough meat, and a broth without taste or 
 succulence." 
 
 Meat, salted or fresh, should be put 
 first into cold water just sufficient to 
 cover it ; to be warmed gradually and re- 
 newed, as it wastes away, with hot wa- 
 ter. The scum must be skimmed off as 
 fast as it rises. As soon as the water 
 boils, the kettle should be taken off the 
 fire, but placed near enough to keep it 
 simmering, which it will do with little 
 heat. The allowance of time in the sum- 
 mer is eighteen or twenty minutes to 
 each pound ; in winter rather more. The 
 time of reckoning must begin when the 
 water boils. Salt meats require very 
 slow simmering, and must have more time. 
 Allowance must also be made for age. 
 
 The nice look of every thing boiled de- 
 pends on skimming the pot well. If let 
 alone, the scum boils down and sticks to 
 the meat, giving it a coarse and uncleanly 
 appearance. A little cold water and salt 
 thrown in will help to bring up the scum. 
 It is not necessary to wrap the meat in a 
 cloth. Less heat is required to keep 
 liquids boiling in copper and iron, than 
 in tin saucepans. 
 
 Dried or salted fish and meats require 
 soaking in cold water before boiling. 
 
 Meat and poultry will lose their flavor 
 and firmness, if left in the water after 
 they are done ; as will also fish, which 
 will break to pieces. 
 
 The water in which fish, meat, or poul- 
 try has been boiled, should be saved; 
 this pot-liquor, as it is called, may be 
 made into soup. 
 
 Remember to heat the water contain- 
 ing the meat, very slowly; a joint often 
 pounds' weight should not boil in less 
 than forty minutes. The more slowly it 
 simmers afterwards, the tenderer, plump- 
 er, and whiter it will be. 
 
 An experienced cook placed a thermom- 
 eter in water in that state which cooks 
 call gently simmering ; the heat was 212 
 viz., equal to the strongest boiling. Two 
 mutton chops were covered with cold 
 water ; one was boiled on a gallop, the 
 other simmering gently for three-quarters 
 of an hour ; the flavor of the simmered 
 chop was decidedly superior ; the liquor 
 was more savory, and when cold had more 
 fat on its surface. The chop boiled quick- 
 ly was hard and insipid. 
 
 Take care that the covers of your boil- 
 ing pots fit closely, and only remove them 
 for skimming. If exposed to the smoke 
 the meat will have a bad taste. 
 
 The less water the better, so that the 
 joint is covered ; a quart of water is gen- 
 erally allowed to a pound. As the wa- 
 ter is diminished by evaporation, fresh 
 boiling water may be poured into tho 
 saucepan. 
 
 Beef and mutton may be a little under, 
 done ; but lamb, pork, and veal, are un- 
 eatable unless thoroughly boiled. 
 
 A fishdrainer, four skewers, or a soup 
 plate, wrong side upwards, laid on the 
 bottom of the boiling pot, will prevent 
 the lower side of the meat from being 
 overdone, or burnt by sticking. 
 
 The broth of every joint may be made 
 into savory soup. 
 
 Meat loses in cooking from one-fifth 
 to one-third of its weight. Boiling is the 
 more economical way of cooking, if the 
 broth be used. One pound a day for each 
 person in the family is a liberal allow- 
 ance for dinner. 
 
 The sauces sent to table with boiled 
 meat must be served in boats, not poured 
 ! over it. 
 
 Eoasting. The first preparation must 
 
138 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 be to see. that the spit is cleaned with 
 sand and water. It should be wiped 
 while hot, as soon as meat is drawn from 
 it. and scoured always before use. Joint 
 the meat properly for the convenience of 
 the carver, and balance it evenly on the 
 spit, that its motion may be regular and 
 the fire operate equally on each part of 
 it. Use balance skewers, if necessary 
 and do not run the spit through the 
 prime part of the joint. Take care that 
 the meat has been kept long enough to 
 be tender. A leg of mutton should never 
 be spitted, as the spit lets out the gravy, 
 and leaves an unsightly perforation just 
 as you are cutting into the pope's eye. 
 
 Roast meat by the radiant heat of a 
 clear, glowing fire, otherwise it is baked. 
 The "old English roast beef" was not 
 done hi an oven. 
 
 The Paschal lamb among the Jews, 
 was roasted whole; among eastern na- 
 tions sheep are thus brought to table; 
 but it is not done among us, except when 
 pigs, with apples in their mouths, grace 
 the board at country taverns, at some 
 Fourth of July celebration. 
 
 Put the joint to roast when the fire is 
 newly made up. that the heat may in- 
 crease by degrees ; proportion the fire to 
 the size of the joint, making it a few 
 inches longer. What would roast a sirloin 
 will burn up a smaller ' piece. Clear the 
 fire of smoky coals before the joint is 
 put down. The distance from the fire is 
 mentioned by Webster as from nine to 
 thirteen inches ; by Kitchiner. from ten 
 to fourteen. It should be put at the fur- 
 thest point at first. The fat parts should 
 have paper skewered or tied over them, 
 or be covered with a coarse paste of flour 
 and water, fastened on by paper and a 
 string, and taken off in time to brown 
 and froth the meat. Fat meat requires 
 more roasting than lean. In roasting by 
 a string, pass a skewer through each end 
 of the joint, and turn it bottom upwards, 
 that the gravy may flow to each part. 
 
 If the joint is thicker at one end than 
 the other, place the spit slanting, the thick- 
 est part nearest the fire. Be careful not 
 to put meat too near the fire at first ; 
 and the larger the joint the farther off 
 it must be kept ; if once scorched, the 
 outside will become hard, and the fire 
 will not penetrate the interior. 
 
 Mrs/ Hale says : In stirring the fire, 
 be carefth to remove the dripping-pan, 
 else dust and ashes may fall in. On no 
 account let the fire get dull and low, as a 
 strong heat is requisite to brown the 
 meat. 
 
 A thin joint requires a brisk fire ; a 
 large joint, a strong, sound and even fire. 
 When steam rises from the meat, it is 
 done. 
 
 Large joints should be put at a moder- 
 ate distance from the fire, and gradually 
 brought nearer; else the meat will be 
 overdone half way through the joint, and 
 be nearly raw at the bone. 
 
 Such meat as is not very fat should 
 have paper placed over it, to prevent it 
 from being scorched. 
 
 Do not sprinkle the meat with salt 
 when first put down, as the salt draws 
 out the gravy. 
 
 Old meats require more cooking than 
 young. The longer the meat has been 
 killed, the less time it requires to roast 
 it. Very fat meat requires more time 
 than usual. 
 
 The general rule is to allow fifteen 
 minutes to a pound for roasting with a 
 good fire, and ten or twenty minutes over, 
 as the family like it well done or not. 
 
 Kitchiner says: u Slow roasting is equal- 
 ly important with slow boiling." There 
 should be a meat-screen to guard it from 
 currents of air. Reckon' the time to the 
 moment the roast will be eaten allow- 
 ing for the previous courses. If a joint 
 stands after roasting, it will not be " done 
 to a turn." Its size and age, the weather, 
 the fire, the degree of attention, and 
 many other circumstances, have to be 
 
RUDIMENTS OF COOKEKY. 
 
 139 
 
 considered, and make this process very 
 difficult to perform in perfection. 
 
 When the joint is half done, stir up 
 the fire thoroughly. When it is satura- 
 ted with heat, steam will begin to rise. 
 
 To Baste roast meat, is to moisten it 
 while before the fire, to prevent the sur- 
 face from being scorched. Meat should 
 be basted at first every ten minutes, and 
 afterwards more frequently. Beef and 
 mutton may be basted with their own 
 dripping. Veal and poultry require an 
 addition of butter, suet, or dripping. 
 Some meats are basted with flavored 
 material: claret, sweet-herbs and but- 
 ter being used for mutton and lamb. For 
 a pig, cream and melted butter are re- 
 commended. For veal and other white 
 meats, a basting is made of the yolk 
 of eggs, grated biscuits, and the juice of 
 an orange. Butter, clarified suet and 
 drippings, are used commonly for roast 
 meat. 
 
 To Brown Meat. Make the fire brisk- 
 er when the joint is half done, or add 
 a glaze to improve the appearance. 
 
 To Froth it. Dredge the whole joint 
 lightly with flour, when sufficiently 
 roasted, and immediately baste.it with 
 butter or dripping. Stir the fire, and in 
 three minutes take down and dish the 
 meat. Use butter to froth poultry or 
 lamb. The process plumps up the skin, 
 and improves its appearance. Do not 
 use too much flour ; the meat should 
 have a light varnish of froth, not a cover- 
 ing of paste. 
 
 Dredgings are of flour simply, or flour 
 and grated bread ; or sweet herbs dried, 
 powdered and mixed with flour ; or pow- 
 dered sugar mixed with pounded cinna- 
 mon and grated breaJ; or dried and 
 pounded lemon peel mixed with flour ; 
 or fennel, or coriander seed, cinnamon 
 and sugar, powdered and mixed with 
 grated bread. 
 
 Dripping is the fat which drops from 
 roasting meat, and is used in frying, 
 
 basting, or making plain pastry. When 
 a joint of beef is roasted, pour the melt- 
 ed fat into a basin of cold, clean water ; 
 the heavy particles sink to the bottom ; 
 the melted fat floats, and when cold, 
 forms a clear cake of fat, fit for use 
 several days in cool weather. Drip- 
 ping that has been used for frying (un- 
 less fish or pork has been fried in it) 
 may be clarified in this way, for use 
 a second time. Beef suet should be slow- 
 ly melted, and passed through a sieve 
 into cold water ; when caked it may be 
 put into a jar, and kept in a cool place. 
 
 The Skimmings of Soups and Gravies 
 called " top-pot" is used by French 
 cooks with flour, to thicken gravies and 
 soups, and by some for frying. 
 
 French Cooking. French cooks sub- 
 ject their meats to a gradual long con- 
 tinued action of heat, making the fibre 
 perfectly tender. The English and Amer- 
 icans cook them too fast; the French 
 would pronounce such food only fit for 
 barbarians. Another peculiarity of French 
 cooking is the variety of flavors impart- 
 ed to meat. A great number of dishes 
 are prepared from a few original sub- 
 stances, and the addition of a particular 
 sauce gives a name to the dish. In our 
 cooking, the flavor peculiar to each meat 
 is preserved, and no condiment is suffer- 
 ed to overpower it. French dishes are 
 more sightly ; light and elegant dishes, 
 not ponderous masses, tempt the appe- 
 tite. The French cooking is also more 
 economical. Nothing is wasted ; and 
 many ingredients are brought into use 
 which we would cast aside as useless. 
 
 Braising is an important part of the 
 art of cooking, and, like the saute, be- 
 longs entirely to the French school from 
 which it takes its name, braise being the 
 remains of wood burnt in the oven, or 
 live charcoal : this plan of cookery re- 
 quires the action of the fire under and 
 over the braising pan, which is air-tight, 
 in order that the aromatic flavor arising 
 
140 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 from its contents may be imbibed by the 
 meat or poultry, and give it that succu- 
 lence so much esteemed by epicures. Its 
 origin is stated to be owing to a gastro- 
 nomic society which was formerly in 
 existence in Paris, whose object was to 
 benefit and improve the art of cookery, 
 and who offered a reward of a silver 
 gridiron to any culinary artist who 
 would discover a new mode of dressing 
 a turkey. Although a gridiron was, no 
 doubt, intended to be used, yet a young 
 artist named La Gacque, warmed by the 
 offer, directed his imagination to quite 
 a different mode, and used the pan instead 
 of the gridiron, and thus composed the 
 braise, which was unanimously approved 
 of by that scientific, gastronomic, and 
 epicurean body, who awarded him the 
 prize. The chief art in braising is to do 
 it slowly, taking care that the ingredients 
 are well proportioned. Put the meat 
 you would braise into a stewpan. and 
 cover it with thick slices of fat bacon ; 
 then lay round it six or eight onions, a 
 fagot of sweet herbs, some celery, and, 
 if to be brown, some thick slices of 
 carrots, and trimmings of any fresh meat- 
 bones you have, with a pint and a half of 
 water, or the same quantity of stock, 
 according to what the meat is, and add 
 seasoning. Lay on a sheet of paper, 
 cover the pan close, and set it over a 
 slow stove ; it will require two or three 
 hours, as its size and quality may direct. 
 Then strain the gravy; keep the meat 
 quite hot ; take the fat off by plunging 
 the basin into cold water, which will 
 cause the fat to coagulate ; and boil it as 
 quickly as you can till it thickens. If, 
 however, you wish the gravy to adhere 
 to the meat, it must be still further 
 thickened ; then with a brush kept for 
 the purpose do over the meat, and if 
 that has been larded, put it into the oven 
 for a few minutes. This is called " glaz- 
 ing," and is much in use for made- 
 dishes. 
 
 A Braising Pan is a sort of oblong 
 kettle, with a bordered lid on which 
 coals or ashes may be put. The lid 
 should closely fit the pan. 
 
 Glazing is strong gravy, boiled quickly 
 till thick ; and it is put on meat with a 
 brush. Hams, tongues, and stewed beef 
 may be glazed. 
 
 Jerked Beef is made by cutting it into 
 thin slices, dipping them into salt or sea 
 water, and drying them in the sun. This 
 is done in the West Indies. 
 
 Broiling. The gridiron must be kept 
 perfectly clean and bright ; always wiped 
 when hot after use, and rubbed just be- 
 fore the meat is laid on it. with clean fat 
 or suet. The bars^ must be thoroughly 
 hot, but not so as to burn. They should 
 be concave, and terminate in a trough to 
 catch the gravy. The fire must be clear 
 and glowing, especiall} 7 " for a beefsteak, 
 for which the passage in Macbeth is a 
 good direction. " When 'tis done, then 
 'twere well it were done quickly." Mut- 
 ton chops do not require quite so brisk 
 a fire. If the article to be broiled is 
 thick, it must be warmed through more 
 gradually. The broiling must be done as 
 quickly as possible, to avoid drying up 
 the juices and hardening the fibre of 
 meat. Beef and mutton require a hotter 
 fire than pork or veal, poultry, or fish. 
 Let the steak be uniformly thick ; beef- 
 steaks not more than half an inch thick; 
 mutton a little thicker. 
 
 Do not sprinkle the steak with salt 
 before, or while broiling. It draws out 
 the gravy. Pepper may be used. Do 
 not turn the steaks with a fork, but with 
 a small tongs. 
 
 A charcoal fire is convenient for broil- 
 ing. When the chops are placed on the 
 gridiron, set the dish to heat in which 
 they are to be f-erved, and send to table 
 as hot as possible. 
 
 Soyer says: "As regards the thick- 
 ness of the meat to be broiled, that de- 
 pends in a great measure on the intensity 
 
RUDIMENTS OF COOKERY. 
 
 141 
 
 of the fire, but the quicker the better, 
 and also the sooner it is eaten after taken 
 from the fire the better it will be. I 
 have latterly, in broiling rump-steaks, 
 added that which, by a great many, is con- 
 sidered an improvement ; it is, on turn- 
 ing them the last time, to dredge them out 
 of a dredger with fine holes, in which have 
 been placed four table-spoonfuls of fine 
 biscuit or rusk-powder, one -tablospoon- 
 ful of salt, one teaspoonful of pepper, a 
 saltspooriful of either eschalot powder or 
 mushroom-powder, or finely pulverized 
 salts of celer}*-, well mixed together, and 
 the steak to be placed in a very hot dish, 
 with a little mushroom-catsup, and a small 
 piece of butter, and served immediately." 
 
 Frying. Though a convenient mode 
 of cooking, this is seldom done well. It 
 is to roast quickly, or scorch meat, &c., 
 in fat in an iron pan. If little fat is used, 
 it is called sauteing. The pan should 
 be flat and thick-bottomed, with perpen- 
 dicular sides. Dripping, oil, butter, 
 fresh lard, or clarified suet perfectly 
 clean, fresh and sweet, must, when melt- 
 ed, cover the bottom of the pan ; when 
 this is heated sufficiently, the meat or fish 
 must be put in and turned frequently, 
 from one side to the other. When near- 
 ly done, they may be browned by being 
 pressed firmly against the bottom of the 
 pan. 
 
 Be careful that the fat or oil is fresh, 
 clean, and free from salt, else what you 
 fry in it will be of bad color and flavor ; 
 salt will prevent it from browning. 
 
 Fat or oil, to be used again, should be 
 strained through a sieve before it is set 
 aside. 
 
 Fat becomes richer from having meat 
 fried in it, and maybe used repeatedly ; 
 but the fat that has been used for fish 
 cannot be used again for meat. 
 
 To prepare crumbs for frying, dry thor- 
 oughly in a warm oven, or before the 
 fire, any waste pieces of bread; then 
 pound them in a mortar and sift them, j 
 
 and put them away till wanted. This is 
 much better than grating bread as it is 
 needed, or using oatmeal, &c. 
 
 When you wish fried things to look ns 
 well as possible, do tl.era twice over with 
 egg and crumbs. 
 
 If eggs be very dear, a little flour and 
 water may be substituted for them in 
 preparing fish to fry. 
 
 In frying use a slice to lift the articles 
 in and out of the pan, and drain thorn. 
 
 To make batter for frying : melt two 
 ounces of butter in a little warm water, 
 and pour it upon half-a-pound of flour ; 
 stir it and add water enough to form a 
 batter, thick enough to adhere to what- 
 ever is put into it ; but it should run 
 freely: add some salt and the beaten 
 whites of two eggs. 
 
 A small shallow frying-pan, or sauie- 
 pan, as it is called, is very useful to fry 
 articles to be stewed : this method dif- 
 fers from common frying, as it only re- 
 quires butter enough to keep the article 
 from sticking to the pan and burning.' 
 
 The fire for frying should be free from 
 smoky coals, sharp, and even. Charcoal 
 makes the best frying fire. 
 
 The fat should be carefully drained 
 from all fried articles ; indeed, they 
 should be so dry as scarcely to soil a 
 cloth. Fish is best drained by wrapping 
 it in soft whitey-brown paper, by which 
 it will so dry as not to soil the napkin 
 upon which it is served. 
 
 The great secret in frying is to know 
 when the fat* is of a proper heat. Put 
 nothing in till it has done hissing, and is 
 still. Or throw a small bit of bread into 
 the pan ; if it fries crisp, the fat is ready ; 
 if it burns, too hot. Whatever is tried 
 in fat not heated enough, will be pale and 
 sodden. Fish should be crisp and dry 
 in a few minutes after it is out of the 
 pan ; when it is not so, dry it on a cloth 
 before the fire. 
 
 Baking. Baking is a very common 
 and convenient mode of dressing a dinner 
 
THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 in small families, and much used in these 
 United States. The southern cook will 
 often stand in the midst of a circle of 
 portable ovens, placed on the brick floor 
 of the kitchen, which is usually at some 
 distance from the dwelling-house. 
 
 Legs of mutton and pork, fillets of 
 veal, and many other joints, will bake 
 nicely if inclined to ba fat ; if lean, they 
 will not taste well, but will shrivel up 
 and lo-e much in weight. 
 
 A pig, geese and ducks, a buttock, leg 
 or shin of beef, a ham, oxcheek, and va- 
 rious kinds of fidh, make very nice baked 
 dishes. The oven in preparing all kinds 
 of bread and farinaceous food, is indis- 
 pensable. 
 
 Stewing. All articles to be stewed 
 should first be boiled gently, then skim- 
 med and set aside in an even heat : on 
 this account, charcoal makes the best fire 
 for Ktewing. 
 
 All stews, or meat dressed a second 
 time, should be only simmered, as the 
 meat should only be made hot through. 
 
 A stewpan is the most advantageous 
 vessel in which stews, hashes, soups, or 
 gravies, can be made ; indeed, for all pur- 
 poses of boiling, a stewpan is preferable 
 to a deep saucepan, as, in the former, the 
 articles are exposed to more even heat 
 than when they are placed one above 
 another in the saucepan, and are likely 
 to be broken in stirring. 
 
 The best stewpans are made of copper 
 or iron ; they should be kept covered as 
 much as possible, unless you wish to re- 
 duce the gravy. 
 
 Ee careful not to fry in a stewpan ; or 
 if so, with great care, and sufficient but- 
 ter to save the tinning from melting. 
 
 Most of the directions for making 
 soups and gravies apply also to this 
 branch of cookery. 
 
 Poeling. Put into a stewpan with 
 two pounds of veal, a pound of beef suet, 
 one of butter, one of very fat bacon, all 
 cut up ; fry them till the veal becomes 
 
 white; put in three pints of boiling 
 
 water, a handful of salt, a few sprigs of 
 
 thyme, a bay leaf, an onion stuck with 
 
 ' cloves, and a bundle of parsley and green 
 
 onions. Boil the whole gently till the 
 
 I onion is done, strain it through a sieve, 
 
 j and set it by for use. i cele will keep 
 
 for a week, and will give relish and 
 
 whiteness to everything boiled in it. Do 
 
 not boil any lean of bacon ; it will give 
 
 a red color from the saltpetre. Meat in 
 
 poe ling must be under-done. 
 
 Larding. Have ready larding-pins of 
 different sizes, according to the article to 
 be done ; cut slices of bacon into bits of 
 a proper length, quite smooth, and put 
 on a larding-needle to suit it, with which 
 pierce the skin and a very little of the 
 meat, leaving the bacon in, and the two 
 ends of equal length outwards. Lard in 
 rows the size you think fit. 
 
 The same effect with regard to flavor, 
 may be produced by raising the skin and 
 laying a slice of fat bacon beneath it. 
 
 Doubing consists in passing bacon 
 through meat, while larding is on the 
 surface only. 
 
 Glazing is done by brushing melted 
 glaze or jelly over the article, and letting 
 it^cool; in some cases it is requisite to 
 cover the articles with two 'or three 
 coats of glaze, allowing each to cool as it 
 is laid on. The glaze should be of a clear 
 yellow brown, and as thick as good 
 treacle. 
 
 If you have not the glaze ready, sift a 
 little sugar over the article to be glazed, 
 and finish in the oven, with a salaman- 
 der, or red hot shovel. 
 
 Blanching makes the article plump 
 and white, and consists in putting it into 
 cold water over the fire, allowing it to 
 boil up, and then plunging it into cold 
 water, where the article should remain 
 until quite cold. 
 
 Danger from Copper Saucepans. The 
 precise danger from the use of copper 
 saucepans, or stewpans, imperfectly tin- 
 
HINTS AND MAXIMS. 
 
 143 
 
 ned. is hardly understood. It appears 
 that the acid contained in stews and 
 other made dishes, as lemon-juice, though 
 it does not dissolve copper by being 
 merely boiled in it a few minutes, never- 
 theless, if allowed to cool and stand in 
 it for some time, will acquire poisonous 
 matter, as verdigris, in the form of a 
 green band, or- crust, inside the vessel. 
 It has likewise been proved that wealc 
 solutions of common salt, such as are 
 daily made by adding a little salt to boil- 
 ing vegetables, fish, or meat, act power- 
 fully on copper vessels, although strong 
 solutions or brine would not affect them. 
 
 It is. however, in vain to hope that 
 cooks will attend to the nice distinctions 
 by which copper stewpans may be ren- 
 dered safe ; the general advice given by 
 prudent physicians is, therefore, against 
 their use at all. 
 
 The kettles in which the soups are 
 made should be well tinned, and kept 
 particularly clean, by being washed in 
 hot water and rubbed dry before they 
 are put away. If they are not kept well 
 tinned, the taste as well as the color of 
 the soup will be liable to be affected by 
 the iron ; and if the soup-kettfe be made 
 of copper, and the tinning not quite per- 
 fect, everything cooked in it will be more 
 or less poisonous, as everything which is 
 sweet, salt, or sour, extracts verdigris 
 from copper. 
 
 Boning, besides its other advantages, 
 is particularly recommended, on account 
 of its econcnr/ : the bones of turkeys, 
 fowls, hares, &c., assisting to make gravy, 
 while they are nearly useless when left 
 in the bodies of the animals a boned 
 fowl also, rendered solid by stuffing, will 
 go much further than when dressed in 
 the common way. Hares should always 
 be boned, for the sake of the improve- 
 ment in their appearance, and being so 
 much more easily carved. In the hiring 
 of a cook b} 7 persons resident in the 
 country, it is therefore essential to ascer- 1 
 
 tain whether she is mistress of that art ; 
 for as to teaching her by printed direc-' 
 tions, it would be tiroie "thrown away 
 and she can only acquire it by practice ; 
 but it may be learned by a few lessons 
 from the poulterer. 
 
 Napkin Rings. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 
 H:NTS AND MAXIMS. 
 
 IF you chance to occupy the important 
 position of a cook, remember that clean- 
 liness is the first, second and third requi- 
 site in point of importance, to be ob- 
 served. 
 
 Keep your flour-box, sugar, salt, and 
 spices always covered, that dust and in- 
 sects may not get in. 
 
 Never put onions or cheese on the 
 same dish with anything else, and never 
 cut anything else with the knife you use 
 for them. Keep a particular pitcher for 
 beer or, buttermilk, or you may chance 
 to put milk or water into the remains. 
 
 Empty into some outside drain the 
 saucepan in which you have boiled vege- 
 tables, as soon as you have done with it ; 
 and never put by anything eatable in a 
 saucepan. This is a fearfully common 
 practice with southern cooks. Keep your 
 tin and copper vessels as sweet and clean 
 
THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 as glass or china. The saucepans are of 
 far more consequence than tumblers or 
 teacups. If glaf ses be dirty, those who 
 drink from them are disgusted ; but if 
 saucepans be foul, they may chance to be 
 poisoned. Many have died from this 
 cause. The sort of rust which forms in 
 copper vessels not kept clean is a deadly 
 poison. If a housekeeper is careful, she 
 will look into all her saucepans at least 
 once a week, to see if they are well clean- 
 ed, or want tinning. 
 
 Let the dinner be served quite hot, 
 and have the plates as hot as you can 
 handle them, Cold plates spoil the fin- 
 est joint of meat; and it is very easy to 
 have plates hot. At breakfast and tea 
 carry in the water quite boiling, and then 
 it will not be your fault if the tea is not 
 good. It is a very common fault in cooks, 
 as soon as the teakettle boils, to set it on 
 one side where the water coo ! s a little, so 
 that it is not quite boiling when poured 
 on the tea. 
 
 -The true economy of housekeeping is 
 simply the art of gathering up all the 
 fragments, so that nothing be lost. I 
 mean fragments of time, as well as ma- 
 terials. Nothing should be thrown away 
 so long as it is possible to make any use 
 of it, however trifling that use may be ; 
 and whatever be the size of a family, 
 every member should be employed either 
 in earning or in saving money. 
 
 In early childhood, you lay the founda- 
 tion of poverty or riches in the habits 
 you give your children. Teach them to 
 save everything ; not for their own use 
 for that would make them selfish but 
 for some use. Teach them to share even-- 
 thing with their playmates; but never 
 allow them to destroy anything. 
 
 As far as possible, have bits of bread 
 eaten before they become hard. Spread 
 the rest out to dry to be pounded for 
 puddings, or soaked for " brewis." This 
 is made of dry crusts and bits of bread 
 
 soaked in hot milk, mashed, salted and 
 buttered like toast. 
 
 An ox's gall will set any color in silk, 
 cotton or woollen. The colors of calico 
 which would fade in one washing will be 
 fixed by it. It is worth while to buy 
 cheap fading goods, and set them in this 
 way. Get out all the liquid from the gall, 
 and cork it up in a large phial. One large 
 spoonful in a gallon of warm water is 
 sufficient. It is also excellent for taking 
 out spots from bombazine and stiff goods, 
 which, washed in it, look as well as new. 
 It must be stirred into the water. After 
 washing cloth in this water, you must 
 wash it if you wish to clear it, in warm 
 suds, not putting soap upon it. 
 
 Lamps will have a less disagreeable 
 smell if you dip the wick yarn in strong 
 hot vinegar and dry it. 
 
 Do not let coffee and tea stand in tin. 
 Keep tinware dry, and scald wooden- 
 ware often. 
 
 Eggs will keep almost any length of 
 time in lime water properly prepared. 
 One pint of coarse salt, and one pint of 
 nnslacked lime, to a common pailful of 
 water. If there be too much lime it will 
 eat the eggs from the shells ; and if a sin- 
 gle egg be cracked it will spoil the whole. 
 They should be covered with lime water, 
 and kept in a cold place. It is a good 
 plan to lay down eggs in the spring and 
 September for the winter. 
 
 Few know how to keep the flavor of 
 sweet marjoram, the best of all herbs for 
 broth and stuffing. It should be gathered 
 in bud or blossom and dried in a tin kitch- 
 en at a moderate distance from the fire ; 
 when dry it should be rubbed, sifted, and 
 corked up in a bottle. 
 
 Bones from which roasting pieces have 
 been cut may be bought in market for a 
 trifle, and a very rich soup made of them, 
 besides skimming the fat for shortening. 
 Bones from the rump are full of marrow, 
 and will yield a pint of good shortening 
 
HINTS AND MAXIMS. 
 
 145 
 
 without impairing the richness of the 
 soup. The best pieces of beef for soup 
 are the leg and shin ; if boiled very long. 
 the sinews add to the richness of the 
 soup. 
 
 The shoulder of veal is the most 
 economical for roasting or boiling ; two 
 dinners may be made from it the shoul- 
 der roasted, and the knuckle cut off to be 
 boiled with pork and greens, or made 
 into soup. 
 
 Keep an old blanket and sheet for iron-- 
 ing, and on no account suffer any other 
 to be used. Have plenty of holders, and 
 do not put towels to such service. 
 
 Scrubbing Brush. 
 
 Keep a coarbe broom for the cellar 
 stairs, wood shed, yard, &c. Never use 
 a carpet broom for such places. 
 
 Never drop knives into hot dishwater 
 Have a large tin basin to wash them in 
 just high enough to wash the blades with- 
 out icetting the handles. Keep your cas 
 tors covered with blotting paper ana 
 green flannel. Keep your salt spoons ou 
 of the salt, and clean them often. 
 
 Do not wrap knives and forks in wool 
 lens, but in strong paper. Steel is in 
 jured by lying in woollens. It is a good 
 plan to rub the blades with nice grease, 
 and wrap them up separately, to prevent 
 rust. 
 
 Herbs should be kept from the air. 
 Herb tea, to do any good, should be 
 made very strong. Herbs must be gath- 
 ered while in blossom. Those who have 
 
 little ground will do well to raise the 
 most useful herbs ; apothecaries make 
 arge profits on them. 
 
 The same pickle used for bacon is good 
 or neats' tongues. Pigs' tongues are nice, 
 n-epaved in the same way. They are 
 old in England for reindeers' tongues, 
 
 a great luxury. 
 
 Buffaloes' tongues should soak a day 
 md a night, and boil six hours. 
 
 Molasses used in cooking should be 
 irst boiled and skimmed. One or two 
 gallons may be thus prepared at a time. 
 ;t is a prodigious improvement. 
 
 Always have a heavy stone on the top 
 of your pork in pickle. You may keep 
 a bit of fresh meat on this stone, in sum- 
 mer, when you fear it may spoil. 
 
 Have plenty of towels in the kitchen, 
 or Biddy will use your white napkins. 
 
 Soap dirty clothes, and soak them hi 
 water over night. Use hard soap for 
 clothes, and soft for washing floors. 
 
 Cut lemon and orange peel, when fresh, 
 into a bottle kept full of brandy. This 
 brandy gives a delicious flavor to pies, 
 cakes, &c. Roseleaves may be preserv- 
 ed in brandy. Peach leaves steeped in 
 it make* an excellent seasoning for cus- 
 tards and puddings. 
 
 Grate horseradish when the root is in 
 perfection, put it in bottles, fill it with 
 strong vinegar, and keep it corked tight, 
 for winter use. 
 
 Keep a bag for odd pieces of tape and 
 strings, and a bag or box for old buttons. 
 A little salt sprinkled in starch, while 
 boiling, prevents its sticking : it is also 
 good to stir it with a clean sperm 
 candle. 
 
 To separate wax from honeycomb, tie 
 up the comb in a linen or woollen bag ; 
 place it in a kettle of cold water, - 
 hang it over the fire. 
 
 and 
 The wax melts 
 
 and rises to the surface, while all the 
 impurities remain in the bag. A few 
 
146 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 pebbles in the bag will prevent its float 
 ing. 
 
 Honey may be separated from the 
 comb by placing it in the hot sun ,or 
 before the fire, with two or three col- 
 anders or sieves under it each .finer 
 than the other. 
 
 Potatoes boiled and mashed hot, are 
 good in shortcakes and puddings; they 
 save flour ad shortening. 
 
 To corn meat simply rub in plenty 
 of salt, and set it in the cellar for a day 
 or two. In summer it is good to corn 
 meat, which will not keep more than a 
 day and a half. If you want to keep it 
 longer, rub in more salt, and secure it 
 from the flies. A little saltpetre rubbed 
 in before you apply the common salt, 
 makes the meat tender; but it is not 
 best to use it in summer. 
 
 Legs of mutton are good, aired in the 
 same way as hams six pounds salt, 
 eight ounces saltpetre, five pints molasses, 
 will make pickle enough for one hundred 
 pounds. Small legs should be kept in 
 pickle twelve or fifteen days j large, four 
 or five weeks ; and they should be hung 
 up a day or two before being smoked. 
 Lay them in the oven on crossed sticks, 
 and make a fire at the entrance with 
 cobs or walnut bark, or chips, which im- 
 part a sweet taste. Smoke the smallest 
 pieces forty-eight hours ; the large legs 
 four or five days. If hung till thorough- 
 ly dry, the mutton mny be eaten in thin 
 slices, like hung beef. When legs of 
 meat are put in pickle, the thickest part 
 should be uppermost, as the creature 
 stood while living ; also when hung to 
 dry; thus the juices of the meat are kept 
 in. Meat should be turned over once or 
 twice while smoking. 
 
 Hams should be well covered in paper 
 bags, and put in a chest or barrel, with 
 layers of charcoal or ashes between. 
 When you take one out to cut for use, 
 put it away in a dark place, well covered! 
 
 Let there be a place for every article, 
 and when not in use let every article be 
 hi its place. 
 
 Keep every utensil ready for immediate 
 use. 
 
 The stock pot should never be suffered 
 to be empty, as almost any meats (save 
 salt meats) or fowls make stock; the 
 remnants should never be thrown any- 
 where but into the stock pot, and should 
 too much stock be already in your pos- 
 session, boil it down to a glaze: waste 
 is thus avoided. 
 
 Keep your meat in a cool, dry place ; 
 your fish on ice. and your vegetables on 
 a stone floor free from air. 
 
 Cut your soap when it comes in, and 
 let it dry slowly. 
 
 Keep your sweet herbs in paper bags, 
 each bag containing only one description 
 of herb. They should be dried in the 
 wind and not in the sun, and when order- 
 ed in a receipt should be cautiously used, 
 a preponderance in any seasoning 
 spoils it. 
 
 When oranges or lemons are used for 
 juice, chop down the peel, put them in 
 small pots and^tie them down for use. 
 
 APPLES. In choosing apples, be guided 
 
 Apple Peeler, 
 by the weight ; the heaviest are the best. 
 
HINTS AND MAXIMS. 
 
 147 
 
 and those should always be selected 
 which, on being pressed by the thumb 
 yield with a slight crackling noise. Pre 
 fer large apples to small, for waste i 
 saved in peeling and coring. 
 
 Apples should be kept on dry straw 
 in a dry place, and pears hung up by the 
 stalk. 
 
 BATTER for fish, meat, fritters, &c. 
 Prepare it with fine flour, salt, a little oil 
 beer, fvinegar, or white wine, and the 
 whites of eggs beaten up ; when of a pro- 
 per thickness, about the size of a nutmeg 
 it will drop out of the spoon at once 
 Fry in oil or hog's lard. 
 
 CABROTS, if young, need only be wiped 
 when boiled if old, they must be scraped 
 before boiling. Slice them into a dish, 
 and pour over them melted butter. 
 
 CAULIFLOWEKS. Cut off the stalks, 
 but leave a little of the green on ; boil in 
 spring water with a little salt in it : they 
 must not boil too fast. 
 
 CELERY. Very little is sufficient for 
 soups, as the flavor is very predominating. 
 It should be particularly cleanly washed 
 arid curled when sent to table. To curl 
 celery, wash well, and take off the out- 
 eide stalks, cut it to a ^proper length, 
 split each stalk into three or four divi- 
 sions with a large needle, then place the 
 head of celery in spring water with the 
 root uppermost, and let it remain for 
 four or five hours it may then be taste- 
 fully arranged on the dish. 
 
 GAME may often be made fit for eating 
 when it seems spoiled, b}' cleaning it and 
 washing with vinegar and water. Birds 
 that are not likely to keep, should be 
 drawn, cropped, and picked, then washed 
 in two or three waters, and rubbed 
 with salt; have in readiness a large 
 saucepan of boiling water, and plunge 
 them into it one by one, drawing them 
 up and down by the legs, so that the wa- 
 ter may pass through them. Let them 
 stay for five or six minutes, then hang 
 them up in a cold place ; when they are 
 
 completely drained, well salt and pepper 
 the insides, and thoroughly wash them 
 before roasting. 
 
 GRAVIES The skirts of beef and the 
 kidney will make quite as good gravy as 
 any other meat, if prepared in the same 
 manner. The kidney of an ox. or the 
 milt, makes excellent gravy, cut to pieces 
 and prepared as other meat, and so with 
 the shank end of mutton that has been 
 dressed, if much gravy is not required. 
 The shank bones of mutton add greatly 
 to the richness of gravies, but they should 
 be first well soaked and scoured clean. 
 The taste of gravies is improved by tar- 
 ragon, but it should be sparingly used 
 immediately before serving. 
 
 LARD should be carefully melted in a 
 jar put in a kettle of water and boiled, 
 and run into bladders that have been 
 strictly cleaned ; the bladders should not 
 be too lar-e, as the lard will become rank 
 if the air gets to it. While melting it, 
 put in a sprig of rosemary. 
 
 MUSTARD mixed smooth with new 
 milk, and a little cream added, will keep; 
 it is very soft, and by no means bitter. 
 
 SAGO should soak for an hour in wa- 
 ter previous to using, to take oft' the 
 earthy taste. 
 
 SUF.T ma}' be kept for a twelvemonth, 
 thus: choose the firmest and most free 
 from skin or veins, remove all traces of 
 these, put the suet in a saucepan at some 
 distance from the lire, and let it melt 
 gradually ; when melted, pour it into a 
 >an of cold spring water; when hard, 
 vipe it dry, fold it in white paper, put it 
 nto a linen bag, and keep it in a dry, 
 300! place ; when used, it must be scrap 
 ed, and will make an excellent crust, 
 ither with or without butter. 
 
 TONGUE, which has been dried, should 
 >e soaked in water throe or four hours. 
 )ne that has not been dried will re- 
 uire but little soaking; put it in cold 
 vater, and boil gently till tender. 
 
148 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 Raisin wine may be substituted for 
 sherry, for sweets generally. 
 
 Copper vessels, when the tinning is 
 worn off, must never be used, or the 
 poisoning of those who partake of what- 
 ever may have been cooked in them is 
 inevitable. They should be sent to be 
 re-tinned immediately they require it. 
 
 Keep tapes and jelly bags clean, or 
 when again used they will impart an un- 
 pleasant flavor. 
 
 All soups should be moderately thin 
 and bright. 
 
 Meats, such as beef, mutton, and veni- 
 son, must rather be underdone than over- 
 done, excepting veal and pork, which re- 
 quire to be well done. 
 
 Fish should be quite done, but not 
 overdone. 
 
 Pastry must be carefully baked; it 
 should be sent to table a pale gold color. 
 Onions should be kept on ropes in a 
 dry place a specked one should be re- 
 moved or it will contaminate the others. 
 Cold water cracks hot iron infallibly. 
 Pudding towels should be carefully 
 washed, and kept clean in a dry place. 
 Put a clean round towel on the roller 
 quite as often as necessary. 
 
 Be very particular in not letting your 
 stocks and sauces pass over two days 
 without boiling them up, and be careful 
 to stir the thick soups and sauces all the 
 time they are on the fire, and change all 
 your cold meats into fresh clean dishes 
 every morning, wiping down the dressers 
 and shelves, and if allowed larding cloths 
 see that they are clenn. Keep your lard- 
 er door shut, free from dust and damp 
 do not have your baked paste in the 
 larder, but in your kitchen cupboard 
 and then see to your game, wiping, and 
 peppering and gingering your venison 
 arranging the game which requires to be 
 dressed first, and see that all the blood 
 which may have dropped from the game 
 
 or venison is cleaned from the dresserp 
 and flooring. Then see to the vegetables, 
 removing all stale and what is not want- 
 ed, giving it to the poor, either dressed 
 n some way or uncooked ; do not be over- 
 stocked, but always keep a little reserve. 
 Be sure to look well, every morning to 
 your pickled pork and hams, keep and 
 rub them well, and turn them, marking 
 ;hose to be used first. Your fish must be 
 ooked to and well cleaned and washed, 
 and if intended for that day's dinner, 
 kept in water until required; if not, 
 Keep it on the marble or stones ; your 
 doors should always be shut. 
 
 Clean hands, always clean hands. 
 
 A dirty kitchen is a disgrace to every 
 one connected with it. 
 
 With these few hints we wind up our 
 remarks, merely adding that many of the 
 receipts given, which are on too large a 
 scale for a small famil} 7 , may have their 
 proportions equally reduced, and an ex- 
 cellent dish will be the result. In some 
 instances also, the more expensive ingre- 
 dients may be left out without destroy- 
 ing the integrity of the receipt, discre- 
 tion and judgment being alone required 
 in these cases. 
 
 In conclusion, the mistress of the 
 household will understand that the well- 
 being of her establishment depends upon 
 her surveillance; and though her too fre- 
 quent presence in the kitchen would be 
 
 unnecessary and annoying to the cook 
 
FOOD FOK THE MONTHS. 
 
 yet she should not be deterred from vis 
 iting it by any false delicacy, or defer 
 ence to an absurd custom which make 
 it vulgar for a lady to visit her cook 
 in her own domains. If the cook 
 thrifty and clean, she will be glad to re 
 ceive the praise to which she is fairl 
 entitled ; if dirty and careless, it is very 
 essential that the lady should be ac 
 quainted with the fact in order to remedy 
 it by a change. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIX. 
 
 AETICLES IN SEASON FOE EACH MONTH. 
 
 JANUARY. 
 
 Fish, Eels, flounders, haddocks, lam- 
 preys, oysters, whitings, clams, muscles, 
 striped bass, salt mackerel, smoked sal- 
 mon, sardines, anchovies, fish pickled 
 and soused. 
 
 Meats. Beef, mutton, fish, pork, ham, 
 venison, veal, sausages, &c. 
 
 Poultry and game. Capons, fowls, 
 ducks, geese. Scotch grouse, prairie fowls, 
 young rabbits, partridges, pheasants } pi- 
 geons, wild birds, turkeys, woodcock, 
 snipe, quails, ducks canvas back, red- 
 head, broad bill, teal bear's meat, jugged 
 hare. 
 
 Vegetables. Winter spinach, turnips, 
 potatoes, sweet potatoes, rice, celery, 
 cabbage, parsnips, carrots, dried white 
 beans, beets, dried herbs, garlic, onions, 
 shalots, leeks, mint, mustard, parsley, 
 sage, rosemary, salsify, thyme, &c. 
 
 Fruits. Apples, oranges, dried figs, 
 imported grapes, almonds, raisins, dates, 
 filberts, prunes, hard nuts, Brazil and 
 Madeira-nuts, black-walnuts, hickory- 
 nuts, peccan-nuts. butternuts, chestnuts. 
 
 FEBRUARY. 
 
 Fish. Codfish. 
 
 eels, 
 10 
 
 flounders, had- 
 
 docks, lamiyeys, oysters, smelts, whiting* 
 clams, muscles, striped bass, smoked sal- 
 mon, salt mackerel, sardines, anchovies 
 pickled and soused fish. 
 
 Meats. Beet mutton, fresh pork, sau 
 sages, venison, ham. 
 
 Poultry and Game. Yowls, capons, 
 ducks, geese : Scotch grouse, prairie fowls, 
 partridges, rabbits, pheasants, pigeons, 
 turkeys, woodcock, reed birds, quails, 
 snipe, ducks canvas back, red head, 
 teal, broad bill, hare, bear's meat. 
 
 Vegetables. Turnips, potatoes, sweet 
 potatoes, winter spinach, rice, celery, 
 cabbage, parsnips, carrots, white beans,' 
 beets, garlic, onions, shalots, mint, leeks, 
 mustard, parsley, sage, salsify, thyme, 
 dried herbs. 
 
 fruits. Apples, oranges, figs, import- 
 ed grapes, almonds, raisins, filberts, dates, 
 prunes, hazel-nuts, Brazil and Madeira- 
 nuts, black walnuts, hickory nuts, pec- 
 can-nuts, butternuts, chestnuts. 
 
 MARCH. 
 
 Fish. Codfish, eels, haddocks, flound- 
 ers, oysters, clams, whitings, striped bass 
 perch, smelts, lampreys, salt mackerel, 
 smoked salmon, sardines, anchovies, 
 pickled and soused fish. 
 
 Meats. Bee^ mutton, pork, ham. 
 
 Poultry and Game. Fowls, capons, 
 ame ducks, geese, Scotch grouse, prairie 
 hens, rabbits, partridges, pheasants, pi- 
 geons, turkeys, reed birds, woodcock, 
 nipe, quails, hare, bear's meat. 
 
 Vegetables. Spinach lettuces, cresses, 
 urnips, potatoes, sweet potatoes, rice, 
 adishes, celery, cabbage, parsnips, carrots, 
 white beans, beets, garlic, onions, shalots, 
 eeks, salsify, parsley, sage, thyme, dried 
 erbs. 
 
 Fruits. Apples, oranges, figs, almonds, 
 aisins, filberts, prunes, hazel-nuts, Brazil 
 nd Madeira-nuts, hickory-nuts, peccan- 
 uts, chestnuts, dates. 
 
150 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 APBIL. 
 
 Fish. Brook trout, codfish, halibut, 
 shad, striped bass, eels, lobsters, oysters, 
 perch, roach, smelts, clams, shrimps, 
 cray, small fish. 
 
 Meats. Beef, mutton, veal, ham. 
 
 Poultry and Game. Spring chickens, 
 fowls, capon, turkeys, ducks, Scotch 
 grouse, prairie hens, partridges, pheasants, 
 pigeons, quails, woodcock, snipe, bear's 
 meat. 
 
 Vegetables. Lettuces, spinach, turnips, 
 cresses, potatoes, rice, radishes, parsnips, 
 carrots, white beans, beets, garlic, onions, 
 shalots, leeks, mint, mustard, 'parsley, 
 sage, salsify, thyme, dried herbs, Jerusa- 
 lem artichokes. 
 
 Fruits. Apples, oranges, figs, almonds, 
 raisins, prunes, dates, &c. 
 
 MAY. 
 
 Fish. Terrapin, fresh salmon, turtle, 
 trout, codfish, halibut, perch, shad, carp, 
 striped bass, eels, English soles, soft 
 crabs, lobsters, salmon, roach, smelts, 
 shrimps, cray fish, prunes, salt and 
 smoked fish. 
 
 Meats. Beef, mutton, veal, ham. 
 
 Poultry and Game. Spring chickens, 
 fowls, capons, Scotch grouse, prairie hens, 
 bear's meat. 
 
 Vegetables. Asparagus, lettuces, cress- 
 es, mushrooms, spinach, turnips, pota- 
 toes, radishes, rice, parsnips, carrots, 
 white beans, onions, mint, mustard, pars- 
 ley, sage, thyme, salsify, Jerusalem arti- 
 chokes, dry herbs. 
 
 Fruits. Apples, oranges, figs, almonds, 
 raisins, prunes, dates. 
 
 JUNE. 
 
 Fish. Terrapin, fresh salmon, turtle, 
 trout, codfish, halibut, perch, pickerel, 
 fresh mackerel, shad, carp, sea-bass, 
 striped bass, eels, fresh herring, king 
 fish, English soles, soft crabs, lobsters, 
 salmon-trout, sturgeon. 
 
 Meat. Beef, mutton, lamb, veal, ham 
 salt pork. 
 
 Poultry and Game. Spring chickens, 
 fowls, capons, bear's meat, grouse, prairie 
 fowl. 
 
 Vegetables. Asparagus, green peas, 
 Lima beans, white beans, mushrooms, 
 lettuces, cresses, spinach, celery, potatoes, 
 radishes, rice, carrots, onions, garlic, 
 mint, mustard, parsley, sage, thyme, sal- 
 shy, Jerusalem artichokes, dry herbs. 
 
 Fruits. Strawberries, cherries, cur- 
 rants, oranges, figs, almonds, raisins, 
 prunes, dates. 
 
 JULY. 
 
 Fish. Terrapin, turtle, carp, cod, cray 
 fish, eels, flounders, fresh salmon, herring, 
 lobsters, fresh mackerel, perch, pickerel, 
 salmon-trout, trout, sea-bass, striped 
 bass, halibut, English soles, blue fish, 
 king fish, soft crabs, sturgeon. 
 
 Meats. Beef, lamb, mutton, salt pork. 
 
 Poultry and Game. Chickens, fowls, 
 green geese, pigeons, plovers. 
 
 Vegetables. Artichokes, asparagus, 
 string beans, Lima and white beans, peas 
 of some kinds, carrots, celery, chervil, 
 cucumbers, endive, herbs of all kinds, 
 lettuces, mint, mushrooms, potatoes, 
 purslane, cresses, radishes, salads of all 
 sorts, salsify, spinach, turnips, green 
 corn, tomatoes, succory, squashes, egg- 
 plant, cold-slaw. 
 
 Fruits. Apricots, currants, straw- 
 berries, raspberries, blackberries, goose- 
 berries, cherries, nectarines, peaches, hot- 
 house grapes, melons of various kinds, 
 oranges, almonds, raisins, prunes, figs, 
 fresh figs, pine apples, damsons, plums. 
 
 AUGUST. 
 
 Fish. Terrapin, turtle, perch, codfish, 
 pickerel, carp, eels, fresh salmon, salmon- 
 trout, brook-trout, lobster, fresh .mack- 
 erel, striped bass, sea-bass, English soles, 
 soft crabs, halibut, cray-fish, blue-fish, 
 
FOOD FOR THE MONTHS. 
 
 151 
 
 king-fish, sturgeon, smelts, roach, black- 
 bas>s. 
 
 Meats. Beef, mutton, lamb, veal, salt 
 pork, ham. 
 
 Poultry and Game. Chickens, fowls, 
 ducks, green geese, plovers, bear's meat. 
 
 Vegetables. Artichokes, string- beans, 
 lima and white beans, carrots, celery, 
 chervil, cucumbers, endive, herbs of all 
 kinds, lettuces, mint, potatoes, purslane, 
 radishes, cresses, salads, oyster-plant, 
 spinach, turnips, green corn, tomatoes, 
 succory, squashes, cold slaw, egg plant. 
 
 Fruits. Raspberries, blackberries, 
 peaches, nectarines, green grapes, plums, 
 gooseberries, apricots, harvest apples, 
 mulberries, melons of various kinds, hot- 
 house grapes, pears of different sorts, 
 summer pippins, green gages. 
 
 SEPTEMBER. 
 
 Fish. Terrapin, turtle, perch, cod, 
 pickerel, eels, fresh salmon, salmon-trout, 
 trout, lobster, striped bass, sea-bass, 
 black bass, English soles, soft crabs, hali- 
 but, cray-fish, blue-fish, king-fish, smelts, 
 sturgeon, roach. 
 
 Meats ~Beef, mutton, lamb, veal, ham, 
 salt beef and pork. 
 
 Poultry and Game. Chickens, fowls, 
 ducks, green geese, meadow-larks, bear's 
 meat. 
 
 Vegetables. Artichokes, white and 
 lima beans, carrots, celery, chervil, cu- 
 cumbers, herbs of all kinds, lettuces, 
 mint, potatoes, purslane, radishes, salads 
 oyster plant, spinach, turnips, beets 
 green corn, tomatoes, succory 
 cold slaw, egg plant. 
 
 Fruits. Green grapes, magnum bo- 
 num plum, Palmer and Columbia grapes 
 egg plums, gooseberries, 
 peaches, apples, grapes of different varie- 
 ties, pears of all kinds. 
 
 OCTOBER. 
 Fish. Terrapin, salmon, striped bass, 
 
 sea-bass, blue-fish, salmon-trout, lobsters, 
 codfish, halibut, black-fish, pickerel, carp, 
 eels, soft crabs, perch, trout, oysters. 
 
 Meats. Beef, mutton, pork, veal, veni- 
 son, lamb. 
 
 Poultry and Game. Meadow-larks, 
 chickens, capons, ducks, turkeys, par- 
 tridges, wild pigeon, English snipe, grouse 
 or prairie-hens, pheasants, quails, wild 
 ducks, hares, rabbits, bear's meat. 
 
 Vegetables. Artichokes, cauliflower, 
 >roccoli, succory, carrots, celery, leeks, 
 mions, parsnips, potatoes, spinach, tur- 
 iips, egg-plant, lettuce, tomatoes, car- 
 ots, cabbage, rice, cauliflower, artichokes, 
 iclery, leeks, onions, parsnips, sweet po- 
 tatoes, potatoes, radishes, salads, savoys, 
 winter spinach, tomatoes, turnips, suc- 
 jory, beets, oyster-plant, egg-plant, dry 
 icrbs. 
 
 Fruits. Late peaches, apples, filberts, 
 almonds, hazel-nuts, grapes, quinces, wal- 
 nuts, hickory-nuts, chestnuts, chincopins, 
 peccan-nuts. 
 
 NOVEMBER. 
 
 Fish* Eels, oysters, clams, codfish, 
 haddock, lampreys, whitings, muscles, 
 striped bass, salt mackerel, smoked sal- 
 mon, sardines, anchovies, &c. 
 
 Meats. Beef, mutton, lamb, pork, 
 venison. 
 
 Poultry and Game. Chickens, fowls, 
 capons, ducks, geese, Scotch grouse, 
 prairie-hens, hares, rabbits, partridges, 
 pheasants, pigeons, turkeys, reed-birds, 
 woodcock, snipe, quails, canvas-back, 
 red-head, broadbill, teal-ducks, meadow- 
 larks, bear's meat. 
 
 Vegetables. Celery, cauliflower, cab- 
 radishes, winter-spinach, turnips, 
 
 potatoes, sweet potatoes, rice, parsnips, 
 carrots, dry white beans, beets, dried 
 herbs, garlic, onions, shalots, leeks, mint, 
 mustard, parsley, sage, thyme, salsify. 
 fruits. Lute peaches, apples, oranges, 
 
152 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 almonds, raisins, filberts, prunes, figs, 
 hazelnuts, Brazil and Madeira nuts, dates, 
 walnuts, hickory-nuts and chestnuts. 
 
 DECEMBER. 
 
 Pith. Oysters, clams, eels, haddock, 
 lampreys, whitings, muscles, striped- 
 bass, salt mackerel, smoked salmon, sar- 
 dines, anchovies, &c. 
 
 Meats. Beef, mutton, pork, veal, 
 venison. 
 
 Poultry and Game. Fowls, turkeys, 
 capons, ducks, geese, Scotch grouse, prai- 
 
 rie-hens, hares, rabbits, partridges, 
 pheasants, pigeons, reed-birds, woodcock 
 snipe, quails, ducks, canvas back, red- 
 head, broadbill, teal, bear's meat. 
 
 Vegetables. Cauliflower, celery, cab- 
 bage, winter spinach, turnips, potatoes, 
 sweet potatoes, rice, parsnips, carrots, 
 dry beans, beets, dried herbs, garlic, 
 onions, shalots, leeks, mint, mustard, 
 parsley, sage, thyme, salsify. 
 
 Fruits. Apples, oranges, bananas, al- 
 monds, raisins, filberts, prunes, figs, 
 hazelnuts, Brazil and Madeira nuts, dates, 
 walnuts, hickory-nuts, chestnuts. 
 

PAKT SECOND. 
 
 RECEIPTS 
 
RECEIPTS. 
 
 SOUPS. 
 
 THERE is no dish, perhaps, that comes 
 to table which gives such general satis- 
 faction as well prepared soup ; let the 
 appetite be vigorous or delicate, an ex- 
 cellent soup will always prove grateful 
 to it ; and as this is beyond contradic- 
 tion, it should be the province of the 
 cook to be always in a position to pro- 
 duce it at a short notice. 
 
 There should always be plenty of dried 
 herbs in the store closet , these may be 
 purchased chiefly in quantities at the be- 
 ginning of the autumn, of any market- 
 gardener. Herbs may be very well kept, 
 as indeed they are usually, in paper bags ; 
 they should he all labelled. When time 
 is an important object, the necessity for 
 this is obvious they are always to be 
 had when wanted, and the bag should be 
 immediately replaced after using. 
 
 There should be a saucepan, or a kettle 
 of iron well tinned, kept for soup only ; 
 the lid should fit tightly; one will be 
 found to answer all purposes, being es- 
 pecially useful as a " stock-pot." The 
 inexperienced reader will understand by 
 the term " stock-pot," that soups being 
 of two kinds, brown and white, have dif- 
 ferent foundations, that of brown being 
 always beef, and that of white, veal; 
 there are many ingredients in each, and 
 it is the various articles which, when put 
 together, are called " stock," hence the 
 
 soup utensil is technically termed the 
 stock-pot. 
 
 When fat remains on any soup, a tea- 
 cupful of flour and water mixed quite 
 smooth, and boiled in it, will make it 
 rise as scum, when it may be taken off. 
 
 If richness or greater consistency be 
 wanted, a good lump of butter mixed 
 with flour, and boiled in the soup, 'will 
 give either of these qualities. 
 
 Long boiling is necessary to give the 
 full flavor of the ingredients, therefore 
 time should be allowed for soups and 
 gravies. Skim frequently and simmer 
 slowly; but do not let the broth cool 
 until it is completely made. 
 
 Be sparing in the use of pepper, salt, 
 and spices. 
 
 If onions are too strong, boil a turnip 
 with them, and it will render them 
 mild. 
 
 Do not keep either soups or gravies in 
 any vessel of tin or copper ; and in stir- 
 ring soup, do it always with a wooden 
 spoon. 
 
 Arrow-root, or the mere farina or 
 flour of the potato, is far better for the 
 thickening of soups than wheaten flour. 
 
 The basis of all well-made soups, is 
 composed of what English cooks call 
 " Stoclc," or broth, made from all sorts 
 of meat, bones and the remains of poul- 
 try or game ; all of which may be put to- 
 
156 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 gether and stewed down in the " Stock- 
 pot ; " the contents of which are, by the 
 French, termed Consomme. This is chiefly 
 used for the preparation of brown or gravy 
 soups : that intended for white soups being 
 rather differently compounded, though 
 made in nearly the same manner. 
 
 To the medley of ingredients, add 
 carrots cut in thin slices, herbs, onions, 
 pepper, and salt ; when it has stewed 
 slowly for a short time, pour in the boil- 
 ing water in proportion to the quantity 
 of meat and soup required ; then stew it 
 until it is of a rich consistency, take 
 it from the fire, let it cool, remove the 
 pot. 
 
 If required the following day, care 
 should be taken that the deposit or sedi- 
 ment is removed, as also the fat previous 
 to warming ; if kept long the pans must 
 be changed ; there is as much danger in 
 red glazed earthenware as in metal pans ; 
 the latter should never be employed to 
 keep gravies in, if possible. Wherever 
 greater richness is. required, it may be 
 obtained by the addition of the jelly of 
 cow-heel, or a lump of butter and flour. 
 
 Remember, soup is richer and better 
 for being made the previous day, or even 
 two or three days previously to its being 
 required, if it be warmed each day ; to 
 be really good it must be well stewed. 
 
 Seasonings for Soups. Spices should 
 be put whole into soups ; allspice is one 
 of the best, though it is not so highly 
 esteemed as it deserves. Seville orange- 
 juice has a finer and milder acid than le- 
 mon-juice ; but both should be used with 
 caution. Sweet herls, for soups and 
 broths, consist of knotted marjoram, 
 thyme, and parsley, a sprig of each tied 
 together. The older and drier onions 
 are, the stronger their flavor; in dry 
 seasons, also, they are very strong : the 
 quantity should be proportioned accord- 
 ingly. Although celery may be gener- 
 ally obtained for soup throughout the 
 year, it may be useful to know, that 
 
 dried celery-seed is an excellent substi- 
 tute. It is so strongly flavored, that a 
 drachm of whole seed will enrich half a 
 gallon of soup as much as two heads of 
 celery. Mushrooms are much used, and 
 when they cannot be obtained, fresh 
 mushroom ketchup will answer the pur- 
 pose, but it should be used very sparing- 
 ly, as nothing is more difficult to remove 
 than the over- flavoring of ketchup. A 
 piece of butter, in proportion to the 
 liquid, mixed with flour, and added to 
 the soup, when boiling, will enrich and 
 thicken it. The finer flavoring articles, 
 as ketchup, spices, wines, juice, &c., 
 should not be added till the soup is near- 
 ly done. A good proportion of wine is a 
 gill to three pints of soup ; this is as 
 much as can be used without the vinous 
 flavor predominating, which is never the 
 case in well made soups. Wine should 
 be added late in the making, as it evapo- 
 rates very quickly in boiling. Be cau- 
 tious of over-seasoning soups with pep- 
 per, salt, spices, or herbs, for it is a fault 
 that can seldom be remedied ; any provi- 
 sion over-salted is spoiled. A teaspoon- 
 ful of sugar is a good addition in flavor- 
 ing soups. Vermicelli is added to soups 
 in the proportion of a quarter of a pound 
 for a tureen of soup for eight persons ; 
 it should be broken, then blanched in 
 cold water, and is better if stewed in 
 broth before it is put into the soup. 
 
 MEAT SOUPS. 
 
 1. STOCK FOR WHITE SOUPS. 
 
 This is a soup, the foundation of which 
 is veal, the knuckle, the scrag, or calf's 
 head being the best meat for the purpose, 
 an old fowl, a little ham, or bacon, mut- 
 ton, sheep's head, &c., nearly the same 
 ingredients as for brown soups, save that 
 there must not be much beef, and the 
 proportion of ham and bacon smaller in 
 the latter than former, and when made 
 for white sauce, care must be taken to 
 leave out the pepper. 
 
MEAT SOUPS. 
 
 157 
 
 2. BROWN STOCK. 
 
 Put ten pounds of shin of beef, six 
 pounds of knuckle of veal, and some 
 sheep's-trotters or a cow-heel, in a close- 
 ly covered stewpan, with very little 
 water to draw out the gravy very gently 5 
 and allow it nearly to dry in until it be- 
 comes brown. Then pour in sufficient 
 boiling water to entirely cover the meat, 
 and let it boil slowly, skimming it fre- 
 quently ; Reasoning; it with whole peppers 
 and salt, roots, herbs, and vegetables of 
 any kind. That being done, let it boil 
 gently five or six hours, pour the broth 
 from off the meat, and let it stand dur- 
 ing the night to cool. The following 
 morning take off the scum and fat, and 
 put it away in a stone jar for use*, 
 
 Or: Put into a stewpan a piece of 
 beef, a piece of veal, an old fowl, some 
 slices of ham or bacon, and all the trim- 
 mings of meat that can be obtained ; add 
 to these materials, where such things are 
 abundant, partridge, grouse, or other 
 game, which may not be sufficiently 
 young and tender for the spit. Put a 
 little water to it, just enough to cover 
 half the meat, and stew very gently over 
 a slow fire or steam apparatus. When 
 the top piece is done through, 6over the 
 meat with boiling water or broth; sea- 
 son with spices and vegetables ; stew all 
 together for eight or ten hours in an un- 
 covered stewpan ; skim off the fat, and 
 strain the liquor through a fine sieve. 
 
 Brown stock may be made from an ox- 
 cheek, ox-tail, brisket, flank, or shin of 
 beef; which wfll, either together or sepa- 
 rately, make a strong jelly if stewed 
 down with a piece of ham or lean bacon, 
 in the proportion of one-half pound to 
 every seven pounds of meat; but the 
 shin of beef alone will afford a stronger 
 and better flavor. 
 
 This stock may also be reduced to a 
 glaze by boiling the skimmed liquor as 
 fast as possible in a newly tinned stew- 
 
 pan, until it becomes of the desired con- 
 sistence and of a good brown color ; tak- 
 "ng care at the same time to prevent it 
 from burning. 
 
 3. BROWN GRAVY SOUP. 
 
 The meat used for making this soup 
 should be quite fresh, and of the common 
 gravy beef; if the shin be used, break 
 the bones, as the marrow will add to its 
 richness. 
 
 Take seven to eight pounds of the 
 meat, cut a small portion of it into thick 
 pieces and put it with three or four large 
 sliced onions into a close stewpan, with a 
 little butter, until fried to a fine brown. 
 That done, add a shank of ham, just 
 cover the meat with cold water say a 
 couple of quarts and let it simmer by 
 the fire for at least three hours ; during 
 which time it should not be allowed to 
 boil, but, when coming to that point, 
 check it with cold water, and skim it. 
 As the pores of the meat will then be 
 opened, and the gravy drawn, throw hi 
 three quarts of warm water, along with 
 a handful or one quarter ounce each of 
 black pepper, allspice, and salt, as well as 
 a bundle of sweet herbs, a few cloves, a 
 couple of shalots, two or three middling- 
 sized carrots and turnips (the latter an 
 hour afterwards), together with a couple 
 of heads of celery, and allow the whole 
 to boil slowly until the meat is done to 
 rags, and the vegetables become tender. 
 Then strain it off, and let it stand during 
 the night. Remove the fat on the fol- 
 lowing day, set any portion of it on the 
 fire an hour before dinner, and, when 
 thoroughly heated, season it with mush- 
 room or walnut ketchup, and send it up 
 with a plate of toasted bread, cut into 
 small square pieces, without crust. 
 
 You will thus form a gallon to five or 
 six quarts of strong soup, according to 
 the quality of the meat ; but as it is a 
 winter soup, it will bear keeping, and, 
 if served more than once, the flavor 
 
158 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 may be varied by the addition of differ- 
 ent sorts of ingredients, as for instance 
 first, plain gravy ; secondly, gravy and 
 vegetables ; and thirdly, vermicelli : or 
 if only one-half or a third part of the 
 quantity be wanted, it maj 7 be prepared 
 in the same manner by proportionally 
 reducing the materials. It may be also 
 flavored with red wine. 
 
 4. SOYER'S STOCK FOR ALL KINDS OF 
 SOUP. 
 
 Procure a knuckle of veal about six 
 pounds in weight, which cut into pieces 
 about the size of an egg, as also half a 
 pound of lean ham or bacon ; then rub a 
 quarter of a pound of butter upon the 
 bottom of the stewpan (capable of hold- 
 ing about two gallons), into which put 
 the meat and bacon, with half a pint of 
 water, two ounces of salt, three middle- 
 sized onions, with two cloves in each, 
 one turnip, a carrot, half a leek, and half 
 a head of celery : put the cover upon 
 the stewpan, which place over a sharp 
 fire, occasionally stirring round its con- 
 tents with a wooden spoon, until the 
 bottom of the stewpan is covered with a 
 white thickish glaze, which will lightly 
 adhere to the spoon ; fill up the stewpan 
 with cold water, and when upon the point 
 of boiling, draw it to the corner of the 
 fire, where it must gently simmer for 
 three hours, carefully skimming off 
 every particle of grease and scum ; pass 
 your stock through a fine hair sieve, and 
 it is ready for use when required. 
 
 The above will make a delicious broth 
 for all kinds of clear soups, and of course 
 for thick soups or purees ; by boiling it 
 rather faster about five minutes before 
 passing, you will be better enabled to 
 take off every particle of grease . from 
 the surface. In making a stock of beef 
 proceed as above, but allow double the 
 time to simmer ; mutton or lamb', if any 
 trimmings, might also be used ; if beef, 
 use seven pounds ; if mutton, eight ; or 
 
 lamb, seven ; of course bones are all in- 
 cluded ; with care, this broth would be 
 quite clear. To give a little color, as 
 required for all clear soups, use a little 
 brown gravy or browning, but never at- 
 tempt to brown it by letting it color at 
 the bottom of the stewpan, for in that 
 case you would destroy the greater part 
 of the osmazome. 
 
 5. ANOTHER WAY, MORE ECONOMICAL. 
 
 Instead of cutting up the knuckle of 
 veal so small, cut it in four or five pieces 
 only, and leave the bacon in one piece ; 
 then, when the broth is passed, take out 
 the veal, which is very excellent served 
 with a little of the broth for gravy, and 
 the bacon with a few greens upon another 
 dish. This is as I always eat it myself ; 
 but> some persons may probably prefer a 
 little parsley and butter sauce or piquant 
 sauce, served with it. Should any of the 
 veal be left until cold, it might be cut 
 into thin slices, and gradually warmed 
 in either of the before-mentioned sauces. 
 Should you make your stock from the 
 leg or shin of beef, stew it double the 
 time, preserve the vegetables boiled in 
 the stock, and serve with beef, or serve 
 the beef with some nice sharp sauce 
 over i the remainder, if cold, may also 
 be hashed in the ordinary way. If of 
 mutton, and you have used the scrags of 
 the neck, the breast, head, or the chump 
 of the loin, keep them in as large pieces 
 as possible ; and, when done, serve with 
 a few mashed turnips, and caper sauce, 
 separately ; if any remaining until cold, 
 mince it. Lamb would be seldom used 
 for stock, being much too expensive ; but 
 in case of an abundance, which may 
 sometimes happen in the country, pro- 
 ceed the same as for mutton. 
 
 6. SOYER'S BROWN GRAVIES. 
 Rub an ounce of butter over the bot- 
 tom of a stewpan capable of holding 
 about three quarts ; have ready peeled 
 
MEAT SOUPS. 
 
 159 
 
 four onions, cut them into thick slices, 
 with which cover the bottom of the 
 stewpan; over these lay about three 
 pounds of beef from the leg or shin, 
 cut into thin slices, with the bone chop- 
 ped very small ; add a small carrot, a 
 turnip cut in slices, and a couple of 
 cloves; set the stewpan upon a gentle 
 fire for ten minutes, shaking it round 
 occasionally to prevent burning; after 
 which let it go upon a slow fire for up- 
 wards of an hour, until the bottom is 
 covered with a blackish glaze, but not 
 burnt ; when properly done, and ready 
 for filling up, you will perceive the fat 
 that runs from the meat quite clear ; fill 
 up the stewpan with cold water, add a 
 teaspoonful of salt ; and when upon the 
 point of boiling, set it on a corner of the 
 fire, where let it simmer gently about an 
 hour, skimming off all the fat and scum 
 which may rise to the surface; when 
 done pass it through a fine sieve into a 
 basin, and put by to use for the follow- 
 ing purposes : For every kind of roast 
 meat, poultry, or game especially ; also, 
 to give a good color to soups and sauces. 
 This gravy will keep several days, by 
 boiling it every other day. Although 
 beef is the most proper meat for the 
 above purpose, it may be made of veal, 
 mutton, lamb, or even with fresh pork, 
 rabbits, or poultry. 
 
 7. SOYEE'S GLAZE 
 
 Is an almost indispensable article in a 
 cuisine ~bourgeoise, and should be kept by 
 all persons in the middle classes of life, 
 the advantage being that it will keep for 
 months together, is very simple to make, 
 and is always useful in cookery, however 
 humble ; in fact, with it you can dress 
 a very good dinner with very little 
 trouble. 
 
 Make a stock omitting the salt, which, 
 when done, pass through a cloth into a 
 basin ; then fill the stewpan up a second 
 time with hot water, and let it boil four 
 
 lours longer to obtain all the succulence 
 from the meat, then pass it through u 
 cloth the same as the first ; then pour 
 )oth stocks in a large stewpan together, 
 set it over the fire, and let it boil as fast 
 as possible, leaving a large spoon in, to 
 stir occasionally and prevent its boiling 
 over ; reduced to about three pints, pour 
 t into a smaller stewpan, set again to 
 boil at the corner, skimming well if re- 
 quired ; when reduced to a quart, place 
 t quite over the fire, well stirring with 
 a wooden spoon until forming a thickish 
 glaze (which will adhere to the spoon) 
 of a fine yellowish-brown color : pour it 
 into a basin, or, if for keeping any time, 
 into a long bladder, from which cut a 
 slice and use where directed. 
 
 8.-BEOWNING FOE SOUPS. 
 
 Take two ounces of coarse brown 
 sugar, and pour upon it some thyme 
 water ; place it on the fire till it becomes 
 burnt. Or, take two ounces of powdered 
 lump-sugar, and half an ounce of fresh 
 butter ; put them together in a frying- 
 pan, and keep on the fire till the mixture 
 becomes a chocolate brown, then add 
 three table -spoonfuls of port wine, and 
 two wine-glassfuls of elder wine, six 
 shalots. half a dram of mace, a dram of 
 allspice, a dram of black pepper, half an 
 ounce of salt, two ounces of ketchup, 
 and an ounce of fresh lemon juice. Boil 
 all together, let the liquor stand to set- 
 tle, pour off the clear liquor, bottle, and 
 cork tight. Or, take some sugar, white 
 or brown, place it in an iron spoon, heat 
 until liquid, and then drop into half a 
 pint of water; repeat until sufficiently 
 brown. 
 
 9. PORTABLE SOUP. 
 
 There are many advantages connected 
 with this soup, which will present them- 
 selves to the lady housekeeper, its con- 
 stant readiness for use, its forming an 
 excellent stock for gravies, sauces, or 
 
160 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 soups ; a few minutes will suffice to make' 
 a basin of soup from it. 
 
 . Take three pounds of beef, a shin of 
 beef, the bones of which break, a cow- 
 heel and two small knuckles of veal, put 
 them in a stewpan and add as much 
 water as will barely cover them, put in 
 three onions and seasoning to taste, stew 
 the meat to ribbons, strain and then put 
 it in the coldest place you can command, 
 when thoroughly cold take off the fat 
 and boil it fast in a stewpan without the 
 lid on a quick fire, let it boil and keep it 
 stirred for at least eight hours, pour it 
 into a pan and let it stand twenty-four 
 hours, then take your largest lip-basin 
 and turn the soup into it, boil sufficient 
 water in the stewpan to reach as high 
 outside the basin which is placed in it as 
 the soup is inside, but do not let any 
 bubble into the basin, keep the water 
 boiling until the water is reduced to a 
 good consistency ; it will be then done ; 
 it should then be poured into small jelly 
 pots, or in saucers, so as to form cakes 
 when cold, and is best preserved in tin 
 canisters put in dry cool places. 
 
 This soup may receive various flavors 
 of herbs or any thing else, by boiling 
 the herbs or other ingredients, and strain- 
 ing the simples noted through water, 
 making it boil and then melting the soup 
 
 in it. 
 
 10. WHITE STOCK. 
 
 Take scrag or knuckle of veal, ox-heel, 
 or calf's head, together with an old fowl 
 and the trimmings of any white poultry 
 or game which can be had, and lean ham 
 in the proportion of one pound to eve^ 
 fourteen pounds of meat. Cut it all into 
 pieces (add three or four large -wwroasted 
 onions and heads of celery, with a few 
 blades of mace; but neither carrots, pepper, 
 nor spice of any kind but mace) ; put it 
 into a stock-pot with just water enough to 
 cover it : let it boil, and add three onions 
 
 and a few blades of mace ; let it boil for 
 five hours, and it is then fit for use. 
 
 11. WHITE POKTABLE SOUP. 
 
 Procure as fine a leg of veal as can be 
 obtained, bone it, remove the whole of 
 the skin and fat, chop hi pieces two 
 dozen fowls' feet, wash them well, put 
 them into a large iron kettle with three 
 gallons of water, stew until the meat is 
 tender enough to separate, cover down 
 close and stew for eight hours, take a 
 tea-cup and fill it with the soup ; set it 
 where it can quickly cool. If when cold it 
 is hard enough to cut with a knife, strain 
 through a sieve and remove all the fat, 
 pour into cups the clear jelly, put them 
 into a stewpan with boiling water until 
 they are like glue ; let them cool, and 
 when nearly cold run a ring round them 
 and turn them on to a piece of new flan- 
 nel ; it will draw all the moisture out of 
 them ; turn them in seven hours and con- 
 tinue until they are quite hard. Put 
 them in tin canisters in a dry place. 
 
 When any is required, cut a piece 
 about the size of a walnut, pour a pint 
 of boiling water upon it, stir until the 
 soup is dissolved, season with salt, it will 
 make a basin of strong broth ; if for soup 
 steep some vermicelli in water ; boil it ; 
 then to one cake of the soup pour one 
 pint of water. If two quarts or four pints 
 of soup are required, take four cakes of 
 the soup, and when melted set it over the 
 fire and simmer, pour it into a soup 
 tureen, add thin slices of bread very 
 lightly toasted, and upon them the ver- 
 micelli ; season to palate. 
 
 12. TEANSPAEENT SOUP. 
 
 Cut the meat from a leg of veal in slices 
 as thin as possible, break the bone as 
 small as possible, put the meat into a very 
 large jar and the bones at the top, with 
 a bunch of sweet herbs, a quarter of an 
 ounce of mace, four ounces of blanched 
 garden almonds beat fine j pour upon it a 
 
MEAT SOUPS. 
 
 161 
 
 gallon of boiling water, let it simmer 
 over a slow fire twelve hours, all night 
 is best ; turn it into a double-bottomed 
 tin saucepan, simmer until reduced to 
 two quarts, remove the scum as it rises, 
 strain it and let it stand two hours, pour 
 into a saucepan, taking care not to let 
 any of the sediment accompany it. 
 
 Steep two ounces of vermicelli in water, 
 boil it and put it in the soup before serv- 
 ing up. 
 
 13. SOUP ITALIENNE. 
 Cut the meat from a knuckle of veal, 
 break up the bones and make a broth of 
 them, cut half a pound of ham in slices 
 and lay them at the bottom of a stewpan ; 
 upon them the meat from the knuckle of 
 veal, with the slices of four carrots, four 
 turnips, a dozen peppercorns, two blades 
 of mace, a large onion, and a head of 
 celery; cover down close; stew till the 
 gravy is drawn out and the roots are 
 quite tender, pour over them the broth 
 made from the bone of the knuckle until 
 they are covered, add six spoonfuls of 
 rice, stew four hours, work the soup 
 through a sieve, add vermicelli before 
 serving. 
 
 14. POT-AU-FEU. 
 
 This is by far the most wholesome of 
 all soups. Take three pounds of good 
 rump of beef, of any part free from bone 
 and not too fat ; put it into an earthen 
 fire-proof pot, with three quarts of water 
 one large carrot, two turnips, two leeks 
 a head of celery, and one burnt onion 
 season, and let the soup boil slowly 
 skimming it from time to time, for a 
 least five hours ; then strain it through 
 a fine sieve, and pour it over thin slice 
 of bread to serve. The meat and vege 
 tables make a dish which is afterward 
 served. Thus cooked, the beef become 
 tender and juicy, and is excellent cold. 
 
 15- OCHRA SOUP. 
 
 Put on six pounds of fresh beef al- 
 owing a little less than a quart of water 
 o each pound ; after it has boiled an 
 our add two quarts of ochras minced 
 ne as possible. Afterwards a dozen of 
 ipe tomatoes pared and cut up, wi^h two 
 urnips, a few Lima beans, herbs, and 
 ther seasoning. The ochras should be 
 issolved. Strain and serve it with 
 oasted bread cut into slices, put in after 
 t comes out of the pot. 
 
 The soup may be made in winter of 
 ried ochras. 
 
 16.-PEPPEB POT. 
 
 Put four cow's feet and four pounds 
 f tripe to boil with water to cover them 
 and a. little salt. When simmered to 
 )ieces, take them out 5 and skim and 
 strain the liquor. Out up the tripe, put 
 t in the pot, and pour the liquor over 
 t. Add sliced onions and potatoes and 
 lerbs, also small dumplings made with 
 flour and butter, and season with pepper 
 and salt. A little tmtter rolled in flour 
 is an improvement. When done, serve 
 in a tureen. 
 
 ITWHITE SOUP. 
 
 Take a knuckle of veal, separated into 
 three or four pieces, a slice of ham as 
 lean as possible, a few onions, thyme, 
 cloves, and mace, stew twelve or four- 
 teen hours; an old fowl will make it 
 much richer if added. This soup must 
 be made the day before it is required ; 
 when removed from the fire, after being 
 sufficiently stewed, let it cool ; and then 
 remove the fat ; add to it four ounces of 
 pounded blanched almonds, let it boil 
 slowly, thicken it with half a pint of 
 cream and an egg; it should boil slowly 
 for half an hour, and then be served. 
 
 18.-GEAVT SOUP. 
 
 Take a leg of beef and well wash and 
 soak it. break the bone and put it into a 
 
162 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 saucepan with a gallon of water, a large 
 bunch of sweet herbs, two large onions 
 sliced and fried to a nice brown, taking 
 great care they are not burnt, two blades 
 of mace, three cloves, twenty berries of 
 allspice, and forty of black pepper, stew 
 till the soup is as rich as you wish it to 
 be, tHen take out the meat. When it is 
 cold take off the fat, heat the soup with 
 vermicelli, and the nicest part of a head 
 of celery boiled and cut to pieces, cay- 
 enne, and a little salt ; carrot may be 
 added with turnip cut into small pieces 
 and boiled with spinach and endive, or 
 the herbs without the vermicelli, or ver- 
 micelli only ; add also a large spoonful of 
 soy and one of mushroom ketchup ; a 
 French roll should be made hot and put 
 into the soup. 
 
 19. JENNY LINE'S SOUP. 
 
 Soyer says : This is the soup invented 
 and often partaken of by the celebrated 
 cantatrice of the name it bears, who par- 
 took of it every day when on a visit to 
 the talented authoress, Mrs. Anna Ma- 
 ria Hall, who was kind enough to for- 
 ward it to me for this edition. 
 
 Make about three quarts of stock, 
 which strain through a fine sieve into 
 a middle-size stewpan; set it to boil; 
 add to it three ounces of sago; boil 
 gently twenty minutes ; skim ; just pre- 
 vious to serving break four fresh eggs, 
 and place the yolk, entirely free from 
 the white, into a basin, beat them well 
 with a spoon; add to it a gill of 
 cream ; take the pan from the fire, pour 
 in the yolks, stir quickly for one minute, 
 serve immediately ; do not let it boil, or 
 it will curdle, and would not be fit to be 
 partaken of. The stock being previously 
 seasoned, it only requires the addition 
 of half a teaspoonful of sugar, a little 
 more salt, pepper, nutmeg ; also thyme, 
 parsley, and bay-leaf will agreeably vary 
 the flavor without interfering with the 
 quality. 
 
 20. HAEICO SOUP. 
 
 Cut some mutton cutlets from the 
 neck; trim and fry them of a light 
 brown ; stew in brown gravy soup till 
 tender. Have ready some carrots, tur- 
 nips, celery, and onions ; fry them in 
 butter for some time, and clear the soup 
 from the fat; then add the vegetables, 
 color it, and thicken it with butter and 
 flour ; season, and add to it a little port 
 wine and ketchup. If the gravy be 
 ready, the soup will require no more 
 time to prepare than may be necessary 
 to render the chops and vegetables ten- 
 der, and is an excellent family dish. If 
 wanted to be made more highly flavored, 
 put in a little curry-powder. 
 
 21. FEENCH POT-AU : FEU. 
 
 Out of this earthen pot comes the fa- 
 vorite soup and bouilli, which has been 
 everlastingly famed as having been the 
 support of several generations of all 
 classes of society in France ; from the 
 opulent to the poorest individuals, all 
 pay tribute to its excellence and worth. 
 In fact, this soup and bouilli is to the 
 French what the roast beef and plum- 
 pudding are on a Sunday to the English. 
 No dinner in France is served without 
 soup, and no good soup is supposed to be 
 made without the pot-au-feu. The fol- 
 lowing is the receipt : 
 
 Put in the pot-au-feu six pounds of 
 beef, four quarts of water, set near the 
 fire, skim ; when nearly boiling, add a 
 spoonful and a half of salt, half a pound 
 of liver, two carrots, four turnips, eight 
 young or two old leeks, one head of 
 celery, two onions and one burnt, with a 
 clove in each, and a piece of parsnip ; 
 skim again, and let simmer four or five 
 hours, adding a little cold water now and 
 then ; take off part of the fat ; put slices 
 of bread into the tureen, lay half the 
 vegetables over, and half the broth, and 
 serve the meat separately with the veg- 
 etables around. The remainder of the 
 
MEAT SOUPS. 
 
 163 
 
 broth from the pot-au-feu may be used 
 for any kind of soup instead of the stock. 
 The best part of the beef for the pot- 
 au-feu is the mouse-buttock, tops of the 
 ribs, clod and stickings. 
 
 22. WHITE SOUP. 
 
 Take a large scrag or a knuckle of 
 veal, and one-half pound of lean ham ; 
 some blades of mace and a piece of un- 
 grated nutmeg, sliced onions, and heads 
 f celery, with a little salt and an equal 
 quantity of loaf-sugar. Break the bones, 
 and stew all gently with one gallon to 
 six quarts of water according to the 
 weight of the meat until it is done to 
 rags and the soup becomes sufficiently 
 strong : skim it, and strain it through a 
 hair sieve ; or, if allowed to stand dur- 
 ing the night, pour it into an earthen 
 vessel, and next morning take off the 
 fat. When preparing it for table, add to 
 the liquor from one-quarter to one-half 
 pound of sweet almonds, blanched and 
 finely pounded ; boil a short time and 
 strain again ; then put in one-half pint 
 to a pint of good thick cream, and the 
 yolk of an egg ; but when the cream and 
 egg are put in, be careful not to let the 
 soup boil, or it will curdle. The safest 
 way to avoid this is to mix the cream 
 and egg in the tureen and pour the soup 
 upon it. This in French cookery is 
 called " Liaison" 
 
 23 EICE AND MEAT SOUP. 
 
 Put a pound of rice and a little pepper 
 and broth herbs into two quarts of water ; 
 cover them close, and simmer very soft- 
 ly ; put in a little cinnamon, two pounds 
 of good ox-cheek, and boil the whole till 
 the juices are incorporated into the 
 liquor. 
 
 24 OX-TAIL SOUP. 
 
 Two ox-tails, if properly stewed, with 
 a couple of pounds of gravy beef and a 
 bone of ham, will make an excellent 
 
 soup. Cut the tails into joints, and boil 
 very gently for several hours in a suffi- 
 cient quantity of water, with the beef 
 and ham, carrots, turnips, and celery, 
 ;wo or three onions, a piece of crust of 
 bread, a bunch of sweet herbs, a clove or 
 two, and some peppercorns. Take out 
 he tails when tender, and let the beef, 
 &c., boil four hours longer, then "strain 
 the liquor, and remove the fat in the 
 same manner as for clear gravy soup, 
 [f made without ham bones, or other 
 flavoring ingredients, it will require the 
 addition of a little ketchup, or some 
 of the prepared sauces, and a glass of 
 wine, with a moderate quantity of cay- 
 enne. Add the tails and some pieces of 
 carrot and turnip cut into fancy shapes. 
 
 When thickened ox-tail soup is pre- 
 ferred, proceed in the same manner as 
 above, and thicken the broth with brown 
 roux. 
 
 25. SOUP A LA FRANOAISE. 
 
 Place in the stcwpan six pounds of 
 beef, add a few small veal bones, or one 
 about a pound weight, add a couple of 
 fowls' heads, and a small piece of calf's 
 liver ; iover with four quarts of water ; 
 when it boils remove the scum, add three 
 or four leeks, a couple of turnips, a head of 
 celery, a burnt onion, a large carrot, salt, 
 and simmer slowly seven hours; let every 
 particle of scum be removed, serve with 
 sippets of bread in the soup. 
 
 26. TO MAKE FAMILY SOUP. 
 Take a shin or leg of beef, that has 
 been newly killed ; the fore-leg is best, 
 as there is the most meat on it. Have 
 it cut into three pieces, and wash it 
 well. To each pound allow somewhat 
 less than a quart of water ; to ten pounds 
 of the leg, two gallons of water. Put it 
 into a large pot, and add half a table- 
 spoonful of salt. Hang it over a good 
 fire, full eight hours before you dine. 
 When it has come to a hard boil, and the 
 
164 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 scum has risen (which it will do as soon 
 as it has boiled), skim it well ; then set 
 it on hot coals in the corner, and keep it 
 simmering steadily, so as to continue a 
 regular heat. 
 
 About three hours afterwards, put in 
 a couple of heads of celery*, four carrots 
 cut small, and as many onions sliced and 
 fried, with either a very small head of 
 cabbage cut into little pieces, or a large 
 one whole, if to be eaten with the meat, 
 or, if you have any objection to cabbage, 
 substitute a larger proportion of the 
 other vegetables, or else tomatDes instead. 
 Put also in a bunch of herbs, tied up in 
 a thin muslin rag to prevent its floating 
 on the surface. It will require at least 
 eight hours' cooking; remembering to 
 put in the vegetables three hours after 
 the meat, and the turnips only half an 
 hpur before it is done. If you wish to 
 send any portion of the meat to table, 
 take the best part of it out of the soup 
 about two hours before dinner ; let the 
 remainder be left in the pot till you send 
 up the soup, as by that time it will be 
 boiled to rags, and have transferred all 
 its flavor to the liquid, and must be 
 strained. 
 
 Next day, take what is left of the 
 soup ; put it into a pot, and simmer it 
 over hot coals for half an hour ; a longer 
 time will weaken the taste. If it has 
 been well made, and kept in a cool place, 
 it will be found better the second day 
 than the first. 
 
 If your family is very small, and the 
 leg of beef large, it may furnish soup for 
 several successive days. Half the leg 
 may therefore be sufficient, previously 
 breaking to pieces all the bones with a 
 mallet or kitchen cleaver, which, by 
 causing them to give out their marrow 
 will greatly enrich the soup. 
 
 Or : When a large quantity of any 
 butcher's meat is brought in for the use 
 of the family, the joints will require 
 tri uming: take all the parings, adding 
 
 a slice or two of bacon, beef or mutton 
 )ones, with an old fowl, or a rabbit, if 
 ou have one. turnip, and all sorts of ve- 
 getables, onions, herbs, a few slices of 
 sarrot, ketchup, pepper, salt, &c. ; put a 
 >iece of butter at the bottom of the pan. 
 over it closely, and put it over a slow 
 ire for a few minutes, shaking the sauce- 
 pan occasionally. Then pour in boiling 
 vater, and let it stew until it is rich ; 
 apportioning the water to the quantity 
 f meat. If there be any solid portion of 
 )eef, of which the soup is made, let it be 
 ;aken out previous to the meat being 
 ! done to rags," and sent up along with 
 he roots in some of the liquor, thickened 
 and flavored with any piquant sauce : it 
 will form an excellent ^tew. 
 
 These receipts also, are for the standing 
 lousehold dish so well known in France 
 as the pot-au-feu. 
 
 Cheap and wholesome potages, in 
 common use among the middling classes 
 n various parts of Europe, are also made 
 in different modes, a few of which are 
 these : 
 
 27. COTTAGE SOUP. 
 
 Take two pounds of lean beef, cut into 
 small pieces, with one-fourth of a pound of 
 bacon, two pounds of meally potatoes, 
 three ounces of rice, carrots, turnips, and 
 onions sliced, or leeks and cabbage. Fry 
 the meat, cabbage, and onions in butter 
 or dripping, the latter being the most 
 savory ; and put them into a gallon of 
 water, to stew gently over a slow fire for 
 three hours, putting in the carrots at the 
 same time, but the turnips and rice only 
 time enough to allow of their being well 
 done ; and mashing the potatoes, which 
 should be then passed through a colander : 
 season only with pepper and salt : keep 
 the vessel closely covered. It will make 
 five pints of excellent soup at the cost of 
 about one shilling and eight pence. 
 
 28. SCOTCH KAIL 
 
 Is chiefly made of mutton, either fresh 
 
MEAT SOUPS. 
 
 165 
 
 or salted ; beef is only used when mutton 
 cannot conveniently be had. Three or 
 four pounds of meat should be put into a 
 gallon of cold water, along with a moder- 
 ate quantity of pearl-barley, with leeks 
 or onions, and allowed to stew until ten- 
 der ; if salted, put the meat into water 
 over night, changing- it once before boil- 
 ing. Then have ready the hearts of two 
 cabbages cut small, or greens, if cabbages 
 are not in season; put them into the 
 broth, which must be allowed to boil up 
 uncovered until reduced to two quarts. 
 It should only be seasoned with pepper 
 and salt; but will be much improved by 
 the addition of a couple of onions fried in 
 butter ; indeed, both carrots and turnips 
 are also sometimes used, but their addi- 
 tion deprives the soup of the title of 
 " Kail," whieh is derived from the greens 
 which are usually employed. 
 
 The meat is served with the soup, and, 
 in like manner as the olla of the Span- 
 iards, or the pot aufeu of the French, is 
 the standing household dish among the 
 middle classes of Scotland. 
 
 29. COCK-A-LEEKIE 
 Or as in Scotland called " cocky-leeky" 
 is there also a very ancient dish, and 
 is recorded to have been a special favorite 
 of James I. It is made thus : 
 
 Stew a large fowl, a marrow-bone, and 
 two or three pounds of beef, with two or 
 three Scotch pints (four to six quwrts) 
 of water, and the white ends of two or 
 three dozen of leeks, cut in pieces. Just 
 before serving, add half a pound of prunes, 
 which dish with the soup and the fowl ; 
 but not the meat or marrow-bone, which, 
 when put to boil, must be divided, and 
 left uncovered. 
 
 Or : Put seven pounds of the upper 
 end of a leg of beef, and an old fowl, in a 
 pot, with water enough to cover it, the 
 white parts of two or three dozen of 
 leeks, half-boiled and sliced, and one 
 pound of prunes. Stew till the meat be 
 11 
 
 .tender, skimming it well, and, if you 
 choose, the fowl may be disjointed and 
 sent up in the soup. The leeks should 
 be blanched, and as many used as to 
 thicken the soup ; but no other season- 
 ing is usually employed than salt and 
 allspice, with a small quantity of mace. 
 
 80. SAGO SOUP. 
 
 Take three pounds of lean beef, a slice 
 of lean ham, and lay them in a stewpan 
 with a lump of butter, draw the gravy 
 gently, add two quarts of water, and a 
 sliced onion which has been browned by 
 frying in fresh butter, add a bunch of 
 sweet herbs, six cloves, a blade of mace, 
 a teaspoonful of allspice, and one of black 
 pepper whole, stew until the soup is rich 
 and brown, then remove the meat and 
 strain the soup clear, put it into a clean 
 stewpan, thicken it to a good consistency 
 with sago. 
 
 81. SHEEP'S HEAD SOUP. 
 
 Have the head carefully cleaned, put 
 it into a stewpan with a little water, and 
 when it is heated through fill up the pot. 
 When it is sufficiently tender, take it up, 
 remove the meat from the bones, and 
 return the bones into the broth, adding 
 onion, sweet herbs, &c., as before direct- 
 ed The head and trotters may also be 
 put with some vegetables into an earthen 
 jug, containing half a gallon of water ; 
 cover it close up, and bake it ; either cut 
 the meat from the bones, when sufficient- 
 ly tender, and put it in small pieces into 
 the soup, or serve up the head and trot- 
 ters separately, either whole or with the 
 meat cut off and made into a stew. 
 
 In Scotland, the head is usually singed 
 with a red-hot iron to remove the wool, 
 but without burning or otherwise injur- 
 ing the skin. The head is then soaked 
 during the night, washed, scraped, and 
 split ; the brains taken out, and either 
 fried or made into forcemeat balls, and 
 the head stewed hi the broth till tender. 
 
166 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 82. SOYER'S MULLIGATAWNY SOUP. 
 
 Cut up a small knuckle of veal, which 
 put into a stewpan, with a piece of butter, 
 half a pound of lean ham, a carrot, a tur- 
 nip, three onions, and six apples, add half 
 a pint of water ; set the stewpan over a 
 sharp fire, moving the meat round occa- 
 sionally, let it remain until the bottom 
 of the stewpan is covered with a brown- 
 ish glaze, then add three tablespoonsful 
 of curry powder, one of curry paste, and 
 hah a pound of flour j stir well in, and fill 
 the stewpan with a gallon of water ; add 
 a spoonful of salt, the half of one of su- 
 gar ; when boiling, place it at the corner 
 of the fire, and let it simmer two hours 
 and a half, skimming off all the fat as it 
 rises, then pass it through a tammy into 
 a tureen; trim some of the pieces of veal, 
 and put it back in the stewpan to boil, 
 and serve with plain boiled rice sepa- 
 rate. Ox-tails or pieces of rabbits, chick- 
 ens, &c., left from a previous dinner, may 
 be served in it instead of the veal. The 
 veal is exceedingly good to eat. Taste, 
 before serving, if quite palatable. 
 
 88.-SCOTCH BROTH. 
 
 Set on the fire four ounces of pearl- 
 barley, with three Scotch pints (or six 
 quarts) of salt water ; when it boils skim 
 it, and add what quantity of salt beef or 
 fresh brisket you choose, and a marrow- 
 bone or a fowl, with a couple of pounds 
 of either lean beef or mutton, and a good 
 quantity of leeks, cabbages, or savoys ; 
 or you may use turnips, onions, and gra- 
 ted carrots. Keep it boiling for at least 
 four or five hours ; but if a fowl be used, 
 let it not be put in till just time enough 
 to bring it to table when well done, for 
 it must be served up separately. 
 
 Or : Take the chops from a neck of 
 mutton ; cut the remainder up in small 
 pieces, and let it stew the whole day. 
 Take also a breakfast cup of Scotch bar- 
 ley, and boil it in water till it gets dry j 
 
 then chop fine two large onions and tur- 
 nips, which put with the barley and chops 
 into a close stewpan. strain the stock into 
 it, let it boil one and a half hours and 
 skim it well, seasoning it only with salt 
 and black pepper. This will make a 
 large tureen of broth, besides preserving 
 the chops for the table. 
 
 84. HOTCH POTCH. 
 
 Take any quantity of lamb chops, pare 
 off the skin and greater part of the fat, 
 trim the bones, cut the smaller end of the 
 chops into pieces, and lay them along with 
 the chops put in whole in a stewpan in 
 this manner : A layer of chops at the 
 bottom, covered with every kind of vege- 
 table cut into small pieces onions, celery, 
 lettuce, carrots, turnips, and green peas ; 
 then put on a layer of chops, and so on 
 with the vegetables until the whole are 
 added ; cover the ingredients with water, 
 and let it stew several hours very gently, 
 until both the meat and vegetables be- 
 come tender, and the soup thick. 
 
 Scotch Hotch PotcJi is made in the same 
 manner, only that both beef and mutton 
 are indiscriminately used, and minced in- 
 stead of being left in chops. 
 
 35. PEPPER-POT HOTCH POTCH. 
 
 To three quarts of water put vegeta- 
 bles according to. the season. In summer, 
 peas. French beans, cauliflowers, lettuce, 
 and spinach ; in winter, beet-root and en- 
 dive,* carrots, turnips, celery, and onions 
 in both, all cut small ; and stew with' 
 two pounds of neck of mutton, or a fowl 
 and one pound of pickled pork, in three 
 quarts of water, till quite tender. 
 
 On first boiling, skim. Half an hour 
 before serving, add a lobster or crab 
 cleared from the bones. Season with 
 salt and cayenne. A small quantity of 
 rice should be put in with the meat. 
 
 * If endive be used, it should, however, be boiled 
 in two or three waters to take off its bitterness. 
 
MEAT SOUPS. 
 
 167 
 
 Some people choose very small suet 
 dumplings boiled with it. Should any 
 fat rise, skim nicely, and put one-half a 
 cup of water with a little flour. 
 
 It may be made of various things, 
 using a due proportion of fish, flesh, fowl, 
 vegetables and pulse. In the West In- 
 dies it is the universal dish of the colored 
 people; but seasoned so highly with 
 green capsicums and peppers, that it is 
 there called " pepper-pot." 
 
 86. SOUP A LA SAP. 
 Divide a pound of beef into thin slices, 
 grate half a pound of potatoes and put 
 them in three quarts of water, add an 
 onion, a pint of grey peas and three ounces 
 of rice ; reduce it by boiling to five pints ; 
 cut two heads ^of celery and put them 
 into the stewpan, pour upon them the 
 five pints of soup and pulp the boiled 
 peas into it through a fine tammy or 
 cparse cloth. Stew until it is quite tender, 
 season with pepper and salt and serve up 
 with fried bread cut in dice. 
 
 87. HESSIAN SOUP. 
 
 Cut into slices three pounds of shin of 
 beef, lay it in a stewpan, put in three 
 onions, five carrots, eight potatoes, a pint 
 and a quarter of split peas, three heads of 
 celery, some whole pepper, salt ; pour in 
 by degrees seven quarts of water, stew 
 until reduced to half. If the soup alone 
 be required strain off the vegetables, if 
 not, serve as cooked. 
 
 88. SOUP A LA KEINE VICTOKIA 
 Take a pound and a half of lean veal, 
 place it in a stewpan with a slice of bacon, 
 which must not be fat, an onion with one 
 clove, a blade of mace, a head of celery 
 a handful of sweet herbs, four ounces of 
 fresh butter, and some whole white pep- 
 per ; set It over a clear fire, move it fre- 
 quently to prevent burning, or the flavor 
 is ruirfcd. Have some white gravy ready, 
 
 ;hicken it, add two quarts to the above 
 ngredients with a few strips of mush- 
 rooms ; let it boil, and when it reaches 
 hat point remove it ; skim it clean of all 
 scum or fat. Have ready some vermicelli 
 which has been soaked five minutes in 
 jold water and subsequently stewed in a 
 trong broth ; strain on it the soup and 
 serve with blanched chervil leaves in it. 
 
 ). MULLIGATAWNEY SOUP. (ENGLISH.) 
 
 A calf's head divided, well cleaned, 
 place with a cow-heel in a well tinned 
 saucepan ; boil them till tender,' let them 
 cool, cut the meat from the bones in 
 slices, and fry them in butter ; stew the 
 bones of the head and heel for some hours ; 
 when well stewed, strain, let it get cold 
 and remove the fat. When this is accom- 
 plished cut four onions in slices, flour 
 them, fry them in butter until brown, 
 add a tablespoonful and a half of best 
 curry powder obtainable, cayenne pepper, 
 one teaspoonful with a little salt ; turme- 
 ric powder sufficient to fill a dessert 
 spoon is sometimes added, but the im- 
 provement is not manifest to a refined 
 English palate, the curry powder being 
 deemed all that is necessary ; add these 
 last ingredients to the soup, boil gently 
 for about an hour and a half, add two 
 dessert spoonfuls of Harvey's sauce j 
 serve. 
 
 40. SPRING SOUP 
 
 May be made of a knuckle of veal- 
 allowing a quart of water to each pound 
 with four calves feet, a little cold ham, 
 or salt and cayenne, simmered slowly for 
 several hours. Add then, two quarts 
 young green peas and a pint of asparagus 
 tops, previously boiled with the juice of 
 spinach and other green herbs or vegeta- 
 bles, and- a quarter of a pound of butter 
 rolled in flour. Boil up together, and 
 serve. 
 
168 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 41. SUMMER SOUP. 
 
 Made of mutton neck or shoulder, sim- 
 mered as above, in the same proportion 
 of water, with sliced turnips, carrots and 
 onions, a quart of Lima beans, and pars- 
 ley, sweet marjoram and other herbs; 
 green corn is an excellent addition late 
 in summer, or cauliflower.' and a few pick- 
 led nasturtions; also small dumplings, 
 mixed with egg and butter ; simmer the 
 vegetables till done. 
 
 42. AUTUMN SOUP. 
 
 Take six pounds of lean, cut up, a quart 
 of water to a gallon, add the hock of a 
 ham, boil and skim it, and put in two 
 quarts ochras, cut in small slices, an onion 
 sliced, two quarts ripe tomatoes, cut up, 
 one quart Lima beans ; simmer four hours 
 slowly, add the green corn grated off 
 eight ears, season the soup, and boil till 
 the meat is in rags and the soup thorough- 
 ly done. Dried ochras may be used in 
 winter. 
 
 48. WINTER SOUP. 
 
 Take a shin or leg of beef, cut in pieces, 
 salt and let it stand all night ; next morn- 
 ing put it on with water, a quart to a 
 pound, season with salt, pepper and mace ; 
 simmer and skim well. When boiling, 
 put in a head of cabbage cut fine, twelve 
 carrots sliced; a bunch of sweet herbs 
 and parsley; add six turnips and three 
 potatoes, and an onion, all sliced ; skim 
 off the fat and simmer slowly till dinner 
 time. 
 
 44 HOTCH POTCH. (English.) 
 
 Put a pint of peas into a quart of wa- 
 ter, boil them until they are so tender as 
 easily to be pulped through a sieve. Take 
 of the leanest end of a loin of mutton 
 three pounds, cut it into chops, put it 
 into a saucepan with a gallon of water, 
 four carrots, four turnips cut in small 
 pieces ; season with pepper and salt. Boil 
 until all the vegetables are quite tender, 
 put in the pulped peas, a head of celery, 
 
 and an onion sliced, boil fifteen minutes 
 and serve. 
 
 45. MUTTON SOUP. 
 
 Cut a neck of mutton into four pieces? 
 put it aside, take a slice of the gammon 
 of bacon and put it in a saucepan with a 
 quart of peas, with enough water to boil 
 them, let the peas boil to a pulp and 
 strain them through a cloth, put them 
 aside, add enough water to that in which 
 is the bacon to boil the mutton, slice 
 three turnips, as many carrots, and boil 
 for an hour slowly; add sweet herbs, 
 onions, cabf>age, and lettuce chopped 
 small, stew a quarter of an hour longer, 
 sufficient to cook the mutton, then take 
 it out, take some fresh green peas, add 
 them with some chopped parsley and the 
 peas first boiled, to the- soup, put in a 
 lump of butter rolled in flour, and stew 
 till the green peas are done. 
 
 461. LAMB SOUP 
 
 May be cooked as above, save that beef 
 should be substituted for the bacon. 
 
 47. LEG OF BEEF BEOTH. 
 
 Take a leg of beef, break the bone in 
 several places, place it in a pan with a 
 gallon of water, remove the scum as it 
 rises and add three blades of mace, a 
 crust of bread, and a small bunch of pars- 
 ley ; boil till the beef is tender ; toast 
 some bread, cut it in diamonds, lay it in 
 the bottom of the tureen, put the meat 
 on it, and pour the broth over all. 
 
 48. VEAL BROTH. 
 
 Stew a knuckle of veal ; draw gravy 
 as for stock, add four quarts of water, 
 with celery, parsley, and an onion ; sim- 
 mer till reduced to half, add two or three 
 ounces of rice, but not until the soup is 
 nearly cooked, so that when served the 
 rice may be no more than ddne. Ver- 
 micelli may be used in preference, or foi 
 a change. 
 
MEAT SOUPS. 
 
 169 
 
 49. MUTTON BEOTH 
 
 Three pounds of the scrag of mutton, 
 put into two quarts of cold water ; adc 
 onion and turnips, pepper and salt, a 
 few sweet herbs, and a little pearl bar- 
 ley ; skim well, and boil four hours. 
 
 These ingredients chiefly depend upon 
 whether this dish is made for an invalid , 
 if so, the omission of any of the ingre- 
 dients will be regulated according to the 
 advice of the medical attendant. 
 
 50. BAKED SOUPS. 
 
 Take a pound of any lean meat and cut 
 it into dice, place in an earthen jar, or 
 pot, that will hold five quarts of liquid. 
 Slice, and add to it, two onions, two car- 
 rots, two ounces of rice washed and pre- 
 viously soaked, a pint of whole or split 
 peas, and some pepper and salt to taste ; 
 cover all with a gallon of water, tie a 
 cloth over the top of the jar, or close 
 the lid of the pot down very close, and 
 bake. 
 
 This is a cheap and useful soup for 
 poor people, and may be much improved 
 by using the liquor that salt beef, of in- 
 deed, any meat has been boiled in, in- 
 stead of water. 
 
 Cheap for the poor. Soak a quart of 
 split peas for a day in cold water, and 
 then put them into a boiler with two gal- 
 lons and a half of water, and two pounds 
 of cold boiled potatoes, well bruised, a 
 faggot of herbs, salt, pepper, and two 
 onions sliced. Cover it very close, and 
 boil very gently for five hours, or until 
 only two gallons of soup remain. 
 
 Another. Take two pounds of shin 
 of beef, a quarter of a pound of barley, 
 a half-penny worth of parsley, two on- 
 ions sliced, salt and pepper to taste, and 
 having cut the meat into dice, and bro- 
 ken the bone, place in a gallon pot and 
 fill up with water ; boil very gently for 
 five hours. Potatoes, celery tops, cab- 
 
 bage, or any vegetable left from the day 
 before may be added. 
 
 61. SCOTCH BARLEY BEOTH. 
 ^ Throw three-quarters of a pound ol 
 Scotch barley into some clean water 
 when thoroughly cleansed place it with 
 a knuckle of veal in a stewpan, cover it 
 with cold water, let it slowly reach a 
 boil, keep it skimmed, add seven onions, 
 and simmer for two hours ; ekim again 
 and add two heads of celery and two tur- 
 nips cut in slices, or any shape it pleases 
 the cook ; add as much salt as required 
 to make it palatable, let it stew for an 
 hour and a half; it must be well skimmed 
 before the broth is dished; the meat 
 must be previously removed and the 
 broth alone sent to table. If it is intend- 
 ed to send the veal to the table with it, 
 dress it as follows : take two pints of the 
 broth and put it into a stewpan over a 
 clear fire, add two table-spoonfuls of 
 flour to the broth, and keep the broth 
 stirring as you shake it hi until it boils ; 
 add a little cayenne pepper, two table- 
 spoonfuls of port, boil for two minutes, 
 strain it over the veal and send to table. 
 
 52. GIBLET SOUP. 
 
 Scald and clean thoroughly two sets of 
 goose giblets or twice the number of 
 duck giblets, cut them in pieces, put 
 
 ;hem in three quarts of stock ; if water 
 
 s used instead of stock add a pound of 
 gravy beef, a bunch of sweet herbs, a 
 couple of onions, half a table-spoonful 
 
 >f whole white pepper, as much salt, and 
 
 he peel of* half a lemon ; cover all with 
 water, stew, and when the gizzarfe are 
 
 ,ender, strain the soup. 
 Now put into a stewpan a paste made 
 
 )f an ounce of butter and a spoonful -of 
 flour, stir it over the fire until brown, 
 
 >our in the soup, let it boil, stirring it 
 tvell all the while ; in ten minutes skim 
 
 ,nd strain it, add a glass of Madeira, a 
 
170 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 salt-spoonful of cayenne, a dessert-spoon- 
 ful of mushroom ketchup, squeeze in 
 the juice of half a lemon, serve up with 
 the giblets in the soup. It should be sent 
 to table as hot as possible. 
 
 53 POTAGE 1 .LA EEINE 
 
 Is so called from its having been said 
 to be a favorite soup at the table of Her 
 Majesty. 
 
 Stew two or three young fowls for 
 about an hour in good fresh-made veal 
 broth : then take them out, skin them, 
 and pound the breast, or only the white 
 meat, in a mortar until it becomes quite 
 smooth. That done, mash the yolks of 
 three or four hard-boiled eggs with the 
 crumb of a French roll soaked either in 
 the broth or in milk, and mix this with 
 the pounded meat to form a paste, which 
 must be afterwards passed through a 
 sieve. During this operation the bones 
 and skin have been left stewing in the 
 broth, which must then be strained, and 
 ; the paste put gradually into it : tnen 
 let it boil briskly for a short time, stir- 
 ring it all the while to ensure its thor- 
 ough mixture. When that is done take 
 it from the fire ; warm a pint or more of 
 cream, and pour it gently into the soup. 
 
 This being a delicate white soup, the 
 broth should only be seasoned with salt 
 and mace, nor should there be any other 
 vegetable used than celery ; but the 
 cream may be flavored with almonds. 
 
 64 RICE SOUP. 
 
 Take white stock, season it, and either 
 whole rice boiled till very tender, or the 
 flour fpf rice may be used ; one-half 
 pound will be sufficient for two quarts 
 of broth. 
 
 65. YEAL POTTAGE. 
 
 Take off a knuckle of veal all the meat 
 that can be made into cutlets, &c., and 
 
 set the remainder on to stew, with an 
 onion, a bunch of herbs, a blade of mace 
 some whole pepper, and five pints of 
 water : cover it close ; and let it do on a 
 slow fire, four or five hours at least. 
 Strain it, and set it by till next day; 
 then take the fat and sediment from the 
 jelly, and simmer it with either turnips, 
 celery, sea-kale, and Jerusalem arti- 
 chokes, or some of each, cut into small 
 dice, till tender, seasoning it with salt and 
 pepper. Before serving, rub down half a 
 spoonful of flour with half a pint of good 
 cream and butter the size of a walnut, 
 and boil a few minutes. Let a small roll 
 simmer in the soup, and serve this with 
 it. It should be as thick as middling 
 cream, and, if thus made of the vegeta- 
 bles above mentioned, will make a very 
 delicate white pottage. The pottage may 
 also be thickened with rice and pearl- 
 barley ; or the veal may be minced, and 
 served up in. the tureen. 
 
 56. VEAL BROTH. 
 
 Stew a knuckle of veal of four or five 
 pounds in three quarts of water, with 
 two blades of mace, an onion, a head of 
 celery, and a little parsley, pepper, and 
 salt ; let the whole simmer very gently 
 until the liquor is reduced to two quarts ; 
 then take out the meat, when the mu- 
 cilaginous parts are done, and serve it up 
 with parsley and butter. Add to the 
 broth either two ounces of rice sepa- 
 rately boiled, or of vermicelli, put in only 
 long enough to be stewed tender. Dish 
 the knuckle separately, and serve it with 
 parsley and butter. 
 
 57. MULLAGATAWNEE. 
 
 Slice some onions and a few shalots, 
 put them in a mortar with half a pound 
 of fresh butter, beat them well, add 
 three or four dessert- spoonfuls of curry- 
 powder, a little, cayenne pepper and salt ; 
 cut up some India pickle, which pound 
 
GAME SOUPS. 
 
 171 
 
 well with the other ingredients ; add flour 
 sufficient to thicken the soup, and a little 
 cold stock to work the whole into a stiff 
 paste. When beaten moisten it occa- 
 sionally with broth made from fresh beef 
 free from fat ; when fine enough pass it 
 through a sieve, add to it the gravy that 
 the heart was stewed in, and as much 
 of the beef broth as will make the quan- 
 tity of soup required. Boil it up, and 
 add more seasoning of cayenne and salt. 
 If not thick enough, add flour and butter, 
 until it becomes of the consistency of 
 good cream. A spoonful of sugar and a 
 little port wine are improvements. 
 
 SOUPS OP GAME, POULTRY, &C. 
 
 58. VENISON SOUP. (English.) 
 
 Take four pounds of freshly killed 
 venison cut off from the bones, and one 
 pound of ham in small slices. Add an 
 onion minced, and black pepper to ycmr 
 taste. Put only as much water as will 
 cover it, and stew it gently for an hour, 
 keeping the pot closely covered. Then 
 skim it well, and pour in a quart of boil- 
 ing water. Add a head of celery cut into 
 small pieces, and three blades of mace. 
 Boil it gently two and a half hours ; then 
 put in one fourth of a pound of butter, divi- 
 ded into small pieces, and rolled in flour, 
 and add half a pint of port or Madeira 
 wine. Let it boil a quarter of an hour lon- 
 ger, and send it to table with the meat in it. 
 
 Or : Take a breast of venison, cut it 
 in small pieces, and stew it gently in 
 brown gravy soup. Serve it with roots 
 cut in dice and French beans in diamonds, 
 adding two glasses of port wine when 
 first put on. 
 
 The head of the deer chopped in pieces, 
 and the flesh stewed to a jelly, is also an 
 excellent addition to the soup. 
 
 59. VENISON SOUP. 
 Cut all the meat off a forequarter and 
 
 shoulder of venison, put it into a pot 
 with two gallons of water, a large onion, 
 a head of celery, and some salt. Simmer 
 it very slowly for forty-eight hours. 
 Break all the bones and put them in an 
 earthen pot just covered with water ; add 
 a little salt, cloves, mace, and red pepper. 
 Place the pot in the oven, set in a larger 
 vessel of water, and let them stew as 
 long as the soup. 
 
 Strain the soup clear, and add the 
 juice of the bones. Color the soup with 
 a little flour and a lump of butter as 
 large as a walnut, browned in the frying- 
 pan. Boil it up quickly, and throw in 
 half a pint of port wine. 
 
 60. TUKTLE SOUP.* 
 
 Hang up the turtle by the hind fins, 
 cut off the head, and allow it to drain. 
 
 Cut off the fore fins; separate the 
 callipash (upper shell) from the callipee 
 (under shell), beginning at the hind fins. 
 Cut off the fat which will be found ad- 
 hering to the callipash and to the lean 
 meat of the callipee. Then cut off the 
 hind fins. Take off the lean meat from 
 the callipee and from the fins, and cut it 
 into pieces two inches square and put 
 into a stewpan. The callipash, callipee, 
 and fins, must be held in scalding (not 
 boiling) water for a few minutes, which 
 will cause the shell to detach easily. 
 
 Cut the callipash and callipee into 
 pieces six inches square, which put into 
 a stock-pot with some light veal stock. 
 Let it boil until the meat is tender, and 
 then take it out into cold water ; free 
 the meat from the bones, and cut it into 
 pieces an inch square. Return the bones 
 into the stock and let it boil gently for 
 two hours, strain it off, and it is then fit 
 for use. 
 
 Cut the fins across into pieces about 
 
 * This receipt Is a most excellent one, and is in con- 
 stant use by the party who favored us with it ; and 
 we may add, that some thousands of pounds weight 
 of turtle pass through his hands every year. 
 
172 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 an inch wide, boil them in stock with an 
 onion, two or three cloves, a fagot of pars- 
 ley and thyme, a sprig of sweet basil and 
 marjoram. When tender take them out 
 and add this stock to the other. 
 
 Take the lean meat, put into a stew- 
 pan with a pint of Madeira, four table- 
 spoonfuls of chopped green shalots, two 
 lemons sliced, a bunch of thyme, marjo- 
 ram, and savory (about two tablespoon- 
 fuls each when chopped), one and a half 
 tablespoonfuls of sweet basil (chopped), 
 and four tablespoonfuls of parsley. Pound 
 together a nutmeg, one dozen allspice, 
 one blade of mace, five or six cloves, one 
 tablespoonful of pepper and of salt. Mix 
 the whole together with as much curry- 
 powder as will lie on a shilling. Put 
 about two-thirds of this to the lean meat, 
 with half a pound of fresh butter and one 
 quart stock. Let the whole be gently 
 sweated until the meat is done. 
 
 Take a large knuckle of ham, cut it into 
 very small dice, put into a stewpan with 
 four large onions sliced, six bay-leaves, 
 three blades of mace, one dozen allspice, 
 three-quarters of a pound of butter ; let 
 it sweat until the onions are melted. 
 Shred a small bunch of basil, a larger 
 one of thyme, savory, and marjoram; throw 
 these into the onions, and keep them as 
 green as possible: when sweated suffi- 
 ciently, add flour according lo your judg- 
 ment sufficient to thicken the soup. Add 
 by degrees the stock in which the calli- 
 pash and callipee were boiled, -and the 
 seasoning stock from the lean meat. Boil 
 for an hour ; run through a tammy, and 
 add salt, cayenne, and lemon juice to 
 palate. Then put in the meat ; let it all 
 boil gently about half an hour ; and if 
 more wine be required, it must be boiled 
 before being added to the soup. This is 
 for a turtle of from forty to fifty pounds. 
 It should, however, be recollected that 
 the animal is of various weight from a 
 chicken-turtle of forty pounds to some 
 hundreds and the condiments must be 
 
 apportioned accordingly. It should in 
 variably be made the day before it is 
 wanted. 
 
 61. MOCK TUETLE. 
 
 Half a calf's head will be quite suffi- 
 cient, even if it be small, to provide soup 
 enough for a moderate party, as it will 
 fill a tureen of two quarts ; but it must 
 be fresh and unstripped of the skin, 
 which is the most gelatinous part. 
 
 Take out the brains ; clean the head 
 carefully in hot water, by squeezing it 
 with the hand to press out the blood, 
 and leave it afterwards for an hour in 
 cold water. Then put it into five or six 
 quarts of warm water along with two 
 pounds of veal, two pounds of delicate 
 pickled pork, chiefly fat, a roasted onion 
 or two stuck full of cloves, and the thinly 
 pared rind of a lemon, together with a 
 large bundle of savory pot-herbs, two 
 slices carrots, and a head of celery. Let 
 this boil for two hours ; then take up 
 the head and the pork. The head must 
 be stripped of its skin, and the brain, 
 tongue, and eye taken out ; let the bones 
 of the head be broken and returned to 
 the soup, and boil two hours longer the 
 brains being made into forcemeat balls, 
 the tongue skinned and sliced ; the black 
 part of the eye should also be taken out, 
 and the remainder minced; the skin 
 being cut into pieces of little more than 
 an inch square. While the stock is boil- 
 ing, put into a saucepan a small quan- 
 tity of fresh butter, with some onions 
 sliced thin, a little basil, marjoram, and 
 parsley, a very small quantity of thyme, 
 three bay-leaves, two blades of mace, a 
 few allspice; sweat all these well over 
 the fire ; when done, add sufficient flour 
 to thicken the soup. Stir in the boiling 
 stock By degrees to avoid its being lumpy 
 let it boil gently for an hour, then rub it 
 through a tammy, set it over the fire ; 
 when it boils add the meat. About ten 
 minutes before you serve, season the soup 
 
GAME SOUPS. 
 
 173 
 
 to your taste with salt, a small quantity 
 of cayenne pepper, a couple of spoonfuls 
 of soy, a good squeeze of lemon-juice, to- 
 gether with nearly a pint of either Madei- 
 ra or Sherry. Serve with two lemons 
 upon a plate, cut in half, as some people 
 like the soup to be somewhat acid. Mush- 
 rooms are sometimes added. 
 
 The soup will take at least seven or 
 eight hours in preparation; A calf's head 
 requires half its own weight of meat to 
 make the broth of proper quality. 
 
 62. NEAT'S FEET SOUP. 
 
 Take two neat's feet, cut them as you 
 d^ a calf's head : take five pints of any 
 sort of broth, the juice and rind of one 
 lemon, some parsley and herbs chopped 
 fine ; send these to the oven ; when it 
 comes from the oven, put in a pint of 
 strong gravy and a cup of white wine, 
 some hard eggs and forcemeat balls ; 
 season with cayenne pepper and salt, 
 
 To these an excellent addition will be 
 found in one pound of the belly part of 
 very delicate pickled pork; for it will 
 improve the flavor of the soup, and, if 
 cut neatly into bits, will taste nearly as 
 rich, and quite as savory, as the fat of the 
 head, or the gelatinous parts of the feet. 
 Any of these receipts for mock turtl 
 may be also made from pig's face and 
 pettitoes; and in most country-houses 
 as well as at sea where pigs are gener- 
 ally kept for fresh meat the head is 
 commonly made into soup in imitation o' 
 turtle. 
 
 It has become unfashionable among 
 first-rate cooks to put those egg-balls 
 formerly so common, into mock-turtle 
 but as they are still used by those of the 
 old school, we here add their mode of 
 preparation : 
 
 Take out the yolks of some hard-boile( 
 eggs, and beat them in a mortar wit! 
 a very little salt and cayenne, and mak 
 them into a paste with the white of 
 raw egg. Roll the paste into balls no 
 
 arger than marbles, put them into the 
 oup, and .boil for ten minutes. 
 
 68. LA TORTUE-- TURTLE SOUP. 
 (Ude's Receipt, most carefully revised.)* 
 
 This soup will be made with less diffi- 
 ulfy if you cut off the head of the tur- . 
 le the preceding day. 
 
 In the morning open the turtle : which 
 
 s done by leaning heavily with your knife 
 
 n the shell of the animal's back, whilst 
 
 ou cut it off all round. Turn it upright 
 
 n its end, that all the water, &c., may 
 
 run out. Then cut the flesh off along 
 
 he spine, with your knife sloped towards 
 
 ;he bones, for fear of touching the gall, 
 
 which sometimes escapes the eye. TV hen 
 
 you have obtained all the flesh which is 
 
 about the members, wash it clean and 
 
 t et it drain. 
 
 Have ready a large vessel full of boil- 
 ing water on the fire, put in the shells, 
 and when you perceive that they come 
 off easily, take them out of the water, 
 and prick all the shells of the back, 
 belly, fins, head, &c. Boil the back and 
 belly till you can take off the bones, 
 without, however, allowing the softer 
 parts to be sufficiently done, as they 
 must boil again in 'the sauce. When 
 these latter come off easily, lay them on 
 earthen dishes singly, for fear they 
 should stick together, and put them to 
 cool. Keep the liquor in which you 
 have blanched the softer parts, and let 
 the bones stew thoroughly in it, as this 
 liquor must be used to moisten the broth. 
 All the flesh of the interior parts, the 
 four legs and head, must be sweated in 
 the following manner: 
 
 Lay a few slices of ham on the bottom 
 
 * In perfecting the above receipt for turtle soup, 
 which the author can without vanity assert, is 1 
 lest if not the only authentic and practical . 
 in print, the author has bestowed his utmost care 
 and attention. When in manuscript he obtained a 
 very high price for it. 
 
174 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 of a very large stewpan. Lay over the 
 ham two or three knuckles of veal, ac- 
 cording to the size of the turtle, and over 
 the veal the inside flesh of the turtle, 
 and the members over the whole. Then 
 partly moisten it with the water in which 
 you have boiled the shell, and sweat it 
 thoroughly. You can ascertain if the 
 meat be thoroughly done, by thrusting 
 your knife into the fleshy part of the 
 meat. If no blood issue, moisten it 
 again with the liquor in which the bones, 
 &c., have been boiling: put in a large 
 bunch of all such sweet herbs as are 
 used in the cpoking of a turtle: sweet 
 ba c il sweet marjoram, lemon thyme, 
 winter savory, two or three bay-leaves, 
 common thyme, a handful of parsley and 
 green onions, and a large onion stucK 
 with six cloves. Let the whole be thor- 
 oughly done. Observe that you must 
 only put in the bunch of parsley and the 
 stalks of the herbs, as you must keep the 
 tender part of the leaves to make a puree 
 of herbs, to introduce in the sauce when 
 finished. 
 
 With respect to the members, probe 
 them, to see whether they are done, and 
 when done, drain and send them to the 
 larder, as they are to make their appear- 
 ance only when the sauce is absolutely 
 completed. 
 
 When the flesh is also completely done, 
 drain it on the dish, and make a white 
 thickening, very thin, for turtle soup 
 must not be much thickened ; when the 
 flour is sufficiently done on a slow fire, 
 and has a good color, moisten it with the 
 liquor drained through a silk sieve, and 
 turn the sauce over the fire till it boils. 
 
 Ascertain that the sauce is neither too 
 thick nor too thin, and then put the 
 etewpan on the side of the stove, to skim 
 off all the white scum, and all the fat and 
 oil, that rise on the surface of the sauce. 
 By this time all the softer parts will be 
 cold enough ; cut them about an inch or 
 
 two square, without waste, throw the 
 whole into the sauce, which must sim- 
 mer gently. Then try them again ; for 
 if done enough, they are not to be kept 
 on the fire any longer. Skim oif all the 
 fat and froth. Take all the leaves of the 
 herbs from the stalks, sweet basil, sweet 
 marjoram, lemon thyme, winter savory, 
 common thy in e. a handful of parsley and 
 
 en onions, and a large onion cut in 
 four pieces, with a few leaves of mace ; 
 put them in a stewpan, with about a 
 quarter of a pound of fresh butter. Let 
 this simmer on a slow fire, till they are 
 quits melted, then pour in one bottle of 
 good Madeira wine, adding a small bit of 
 sugar, and let this boil gently for one 
 hour. When done, rub this through a 
 tammy, and put it into the sauce. Let 
 this boil till no white scum rises : then 
 take, with a skimmer, all the bits of tur- 
 tle out of the sauce, and put them in a 
 clean stewpan ; when you have all out, 
 pour the sauce over the bits of turtle, 
 through a tammy, and proceed as fol- 
 lows : 
 
 Make some quenelles a tortue (turtle 
 quenelles), which being substitutes for 
 eggs do not require to be very delicate. 
 They are made in the following manner : 
 Take out the fleshy part of a leg of veal, 
 about one pound, scrape off all the meat, 
 without leaving any sinews or fat, and 
 soak in milk about the same quantity of 
 crumbs of bread. When the bread is 
 well soaked, squeeze it, and put it into a 
 mortar with the veal, a small quantity 
 of calf s udder, a little butter, the yolks 
 of four eggs boiled hard, a little cayenne 
 pepper, salt, and spices, and pound the 
 whole very fine. Then thicken the mix- 
 ture with two whole eggs, and the yolk 
 of another. 
 
 Next try this farce or stuffing in boil- 
 ing hot water, to ascertain its consisten- 
 cy ; if you find it too thin, add the yolk 
 of an egg. Wheii the stuffing is perfect- 
 
GAME SOUPS. 
 
 175 
 
 ed 3 take half of it, and put into it some 
 chopped parsley. Let the whole cool, in 
 order to roll it of the size of the yolk of 
 an egg or smaller: poach it in salt and 
 boiling water, and when very hard drain 
 on a sieve, and put it into the turtle. 
 You must make two sorts of quenelles, 
 white and green, those with parsley 
 green, and the other half white. 
 
 Before you send up. squeeze the juice 
 of two or three lemons, with a little cay- 
 enne pepper, and pour it into the soup. 
 The fins may be served as a plat d'en- 
 tree, or side dish, with a little turtle 
 sauce ; if not, on the following day you 
 may warm the turtle in the hot-water 
 bath, and serve the members entire with 
 a matelotte sauce, garnished with mush- 
 rooms, cocks'-combs, quenelles, &c. 
 When either lemon-juice or cayenne pep- 
 per have been introduced,' no boiling 
 must take place. It is necessary to ob- 
 serve, that the turtle prepared a day be- 
 fore it is used is generally preferred, the 
 flavor being more uniform. When lem- 
 on juice is used be very cautious that the 
 lemons are good ; a musty lemon wil] 
 spoil all the turtle, and too much will 
 destroy the flavor. 
 
 Be particular, when you dress a very 
 large turtle, to preserve the green fat in 
 a separate stewpan, and likewise, when 
 the turtle is entirely done, to have 
 many tureens as you mean to serve each 
 time. You cannot put the whole in a 
 large vessel, for many reasons : first, i 
 will be long in cooling ; secondly, when 
 you take some out, it will break all th 
 rest into rags. If you warm in a hot 
 water bath, the turtle will always retain 
 the same taste, but if you boil it often 
 it becomes strong and loses the delicac) 
 of its flavor. 
 
 It is not the fashion to serve eggs with 
 turtle, but it may be necessary to inquire 
 whether they are preferred. 
 
 Some people require besides, frican- 
 deaux, fricassees, &c., all of which are 
 
 repared in the same manner as veal, but 
 made with those parts of flesh that are 
 o be found in the turtle, four in number, 
 wo in the legs and two in the shoulders j 
 rou may likewise make blanquette, &c. 
 
 64 MOCK TURTLE, ENGLISH FASHION. 
 
 Take a calf's head very white and very 
 resh, bone the nose part of it ; put the 
 lead into some warm water to discharge 
 ;he blood ; squeeze the flesh with your 
 land, to ascertain that it is all out. 
 Mind, the water should never be too hot 
 br you to bear your hand in it ; as long 
 as you can bear it the blood will come 
 out, but if you suffer it to be too hot it 
 will turn the head black. This method 
 of disgorging the blood is to give the 
 same heat to the blood as when the ani- 
 mal was alive, and if your hand will bear 
 the heat it shows that the blood may cir- 
 culate in the veins, but if the water be 
 too hot the blood will curdle, as it does 
 in black pudding. When well disgorged, 
 blanch the head in boiling water ; when 
 firm, put it into cold water, and make a 
 blanc to boil the head, as follows : Cut 
 half a pound of fat bacon, a pound of 
 beef suet, an onion stuck with a clove, 
 and two slices of lemon ; add to these 
 slices of carrot, a bunch of parsley, green 
 onions, thyme, bay-leaves, sweet basil, 
 salt and pepper ; put all these into a ves- 
 sel, with water enough to contain the 
 head ; tie the head tightly in a clean 
 towel, put it in the blanc, and boil two 
 hours and a half; ojbserve that it be not 
 overdone ; let it cool in the liquor, then 
 make the sauce in tbe following man- 
 ner : 
 
 Put into a stewpan a pound of ham 
 cut in slices, put over the ham two 
 knuckles of veal, a large onion, and two 
 carrots ; moisten with some of the broth 
 in which you have boiled the head, to 
 half the depth of the meat only : cover 
 the stewpan, and put it over the fire to 
 sweat through ; let the broth reduce to 
 
176 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 a very good color, turn up the meat for 
 fear of burning. When you have a very 
 good color, and you find that the glaze is 
 very brown, moisten with the whole of 
 the broth from the head, season with a 
 large bundle of sweet herbs, viz., sweet 
 basil, sweet marjoram, lemon thyme, 
 common thyme, two cloves, a bay-leaf, 
 a few allspice, parsley, green onions, and 
 a few mushrooms ; let this boil together 
 for one hour, then drain it. 
 
 Put into a stewpan a quarter of a 
 pound of very fresh butter, let it melt 
 over a slow fire ; put to this butter as 
 much flour as it can receive; let it go 
 gently over a slow fire, till the flour has 
 acquired a very good brown color ; 
 moisten this gradually with the broth, 
 which you put through a silk sieve, till 
 you have employed it all ; add half a bot- 
 tle of Madeira ; let the sauce boil, that 
 the flour may be well done ; take off all 
 the scum and fat, and drain the sauce 
 into a clean stewpan large enough to 
 contain the calf s head ; boil the whole 
 till done, cut the calf s head into square 
 pieces of about an inch each ; put them 
 to boil in the sauce ; season with salt 
 and a little cayenne pepper. The bits of 
 calf s head should always have the skin 
 on one side, but you should leave none 
 of the meat on, which does not adhere to 
 the skin, otherwise the meat will break 
 in the soup, and look unseemly. It is 
 out of fashion now to use eggs ; but on 
 this head the taste of the master should 
 be consulted, and you may make quen- 
 elles instead. 
 
 Observe, that you must not have the 
 quenellgs too delicate, for they would 
 break in the soup and ^spoil the look of 
 it ; the calf's head must not be too much 
 done; thrust your knife into tfee skin, 
 and' if the knife enters and detaches it- 
 self easily, the meat is done enough. 
 
 Some persons will have their mock 
 turtle green ; in which case you must do 
 as follows : Put into a stewpan a quar- 
 
 ter of a pound of fresh butter, mince one 
 or two onions, add a handful of each of 
 the herbs described above, and some 
 parsley, and sweat it all gently over a 
 slow fire. "When the herbs are well 
 done, moisten with some of the sauce, 
 and rub it through a tammy. Mix this 
 with the sauce, and the turtle will be 
 green, without any alteration in the fla- 
 vor. Cayenne and lemon are always 
 added when you serve up the soup. 
 
 65. THE GAEBUEE, WITH BEOWN BEEAD. 
 Take a knuckle of ham, perfectly sweet ? 
 a knuckle of veal, and about six pounds 
 of flank of beef, which put into a pan, 
 with an onion stuck with two cloves, a 
 few carrots, &c. ; pour over the above 
 two ladles of broth, and let the whole 
 sweat over a slow fire. When the meat 
 is done through the middle, cover it en- 
 tirely with boiling broth, and let the 
 whole stew for three hours. Then take 
 one or more cabbages, which are to be 
 washed clean and blanched. Braise 
 them between layers of bacon, and moist- 
 en them with the liquor in which the 
 sweating has ben made, strained through 
 a silk sieve. You must observe that, if 
 the cabbages are not made rich and mellow, 
 they are good for nothing. Add to the 
 above, either sausages, bacon, or stewed 
 legs of geese : mind above all things that 
 the cabbage be not too briny, for the soup 
 then would not be eatable. When the 
 cabbage and broth are stewed enough, 
 cut very thin slices of rye-bread : drain 
 the cabbage in a cloth, so that there be 
 no fat left, then take a large deep silver 
 dish, lay a bed of bread, and over that 
 one of cabbage, and moisten them with a 
 little broth ; let them stew on a slow 
 fire. When the cabbage and bread are 
 sufficiently moistened, lay on six or 
 eight beds more of each, and let it sim- 
 mer on the stove till the bottom of the 
 dish is gratined, as what sticks to the 
 bottom of the dish is most tasty and pal- 
 
 1 
 
GAME SOUPS. 
 
 177 
 
 atable. Send up with the ham on the 
 middle ; the bacon, the legs of geese, and 
 sausages on the borders, and some broth 
 separately.* 
 
 66.-POTAGE 1 LA REINE (Queen Soup.) 
 (Ude's New Eeceipt.)t 
 
 For twelve people take three fat chick- 
 ens or pullets, which are generally cheap- 
 er and better than fowls : skin them, take 
 out the lungs, wash them clean, and put 
 them in a pah with a bunch of parsley 
 only; moisten the whole with good 
 boiling broth : let it stew for an hour, 
 then take out the chickens: soak the 
 crumb of two penny loaves hi the broth ; 
 take off the flesh of the chickens, and 
 pound it with the yolks of three or four 
 eggs boiled hard, and the crumb of bread 
 which has been sufficiently soaked in the 
 broth. Rub the whole through a tammy ; 
 then put a quart of cream on the fire, 
 and keep stirring it continually till it 
 boils. Pour it into the soup. It is not 
 so liable to curdle as when the other 
 method is used, and it tastes more of the 
 chickens. If you think proper to add 
 either barley, rice, or vermicelli, let it be 
 stewed in broth beforehand, and pour it 
 into the soup only when quite done. 
 When you have a great dinner, and fowls 
 are very dear, use the fillets for the first- 
 course dishes, and make the soup with 
 the legs only ; the soup is as good, but 
 not quite so white, as when mad 3 with 
 the fillets. 
 
 67.-RICE CEEAM. (Tide.) 
 This is flour of rice, which you make 
 yourself in the following manner. Take 
 a pound of rice, well washed in different 
 waters, and drained and wiped with a 
 clean towel. Let it get quite dry, then 
 
 * This soup is never sen in this country ; it 
 requires a very deep and very large dish. 
 
 t Formerly I used roasted chicken to make this 
 potage, but I have found this new method cheaper, 
 and not so subject to curdle as the other method. 
 
 pound and shake it through a sieve. Take 
 one or two spoonfuls of this flour, and 
 dilute it with broth, rather cold than 
 hot. All this time have some broth on 
 the fire; throw the flour of rice thus 
 diluted into the broth, and keep stirring 
 till you find the soup is not too thick and 
 may boil without the rice burning. This 
 same kind of rice-flour may serve for 
 souffles, or puffs, of the second course. 
 
 68. MOCK TURTLE SOUP. 
 
 This soup, if well made, gives general 
 satisfaction. Take a calf 's head, thorough- 
 ly scraped and cleane^, the .skin remain- 
 ing on ; place it in a soup pot ; to this 
 add that part of the hand of pickled pork 
 which is free from bones, the fattest end, 
 observing that it is proper to soak it well 
 in water previous to using ; put in sweet 
 herbs, a couple of onions 3 a head of celery, 
 if large, a few truffles and morels, two if 
 small, pounded mace and pepper; add 
 plenty of water, without quite filling the 
 saucepan ; boil slowly, until the meat has 
 become tender, then remove it, and cut 
 the meat from the bone into square 
 pieces ; break the bones and put them 
 again into the soup ; let it simmer for 
 four or five hours, then place it where it 
 can quickly cool, remove the fat and 
 strain the soup ; thicken with flour and 
 butter ; add three table-spoonfuls of Har- 
 vey's sauce, four or five glasses of Sherry 
 or Madeira, and squeeze a whole lemon 
 into it ; add the meat of the head and 
 the pork cut into well shaped pieces; 
 conclude with egg balls, or force-meat, 
 or both, warm it and serve ; it will be 
 found a delicious soup. 
 
 69. MOCK TURTLE SOUP. 
 Blanch half a calf 's head sufficiently to 
 draw out the bones ; cut off the ear and 
 the tongue ; take off the skin of the 
 tongue, lay all separate until cold, and 
 strain off the liquor, and add it to your 
 veal or second stock ; cut the meat into 
 
178 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 large square dice, put it into a stewpan 
 with your already prepared stock, and 
 stew it until tender, strain off some of the 
 stock ; get another stewpan, cut about one 
 pound of lean York or Westphalia ham, 
 one pound of lean veal, a good fagot of 
 basil and knotted-marjoram, two or three 
 blades of mace, six or seven cloves, two 
 bay -leaves, four onions, the parings of a 
 few mushrooms, half a pound of butter ; 
 fry them for some time a nice light brown, 
 dry all up with flour, then add your stock 
 you have previously strained from the cut 
 pieces ; if too thick add more stock ; let all 
 boil for some timekeeping it stirred with 
 a wooden spoon ; when boiled sufficient, 
 strain it through a tammy or tammy- 
 sieve into the stewpan that has the cut 
 pieces of the head ; boil all together ; sea- 
 son with sugar, cayenne pepper, and salt, 
 juice of lemon and white wine ; if you 
 wish to preserve the old fashion, by hav- 
 ing forcemeat balls, egg, &c., refer for 
 them to the previous receipt ; add them 
 to it when they are blanched. I only 
 put hard-boiled eggs, and, if I have any, 
 a few quenelles. 
 
 70. HARE SOUP. 
 
 An old hare is fitted only for soup or 
 jugging. To render it into soup let it be 
 cleaned, cut into pieces, add a pound and 
 a half or two pounds of beefj to which 
 there is little or no fat ; place it at the 
 bottom of the pan ; add two or three 
 slices of ham or bacon, or a little of both, 
 a couple of onions, and some sweet herbs ; 
 add four quarts of boiling water, let it 
 stew to shreds, strain off the soup and 
 take away the fat ; reboil it, add a spoon- 
 ful of soy or Harvey's sauce, send to the 
 table with a few force-meat balls. 
 
 71. HAEE SOUP, OK WILD DUCK SOUP. 
 
 Take a brace of Canadian hares or of 
 wild ducks, and cut them up. Cook one 
 moderately in an earthen pot with as 
 much water as will cover it ; some cloves, 
 salt and black pepper ; the pot being 
 
 set in a large vessel full of water, in a 
 close oven. 
 
 Simmer the other till it is done com- 
 pletely to rags in a gallon of water, and 
 season it with cloves, salt, and black 
 pepper. 
 
 Strain the soup clear and make force- 
 meat balls of the residue, with the yolk 
 of an egg, some fine herbs, grated lemon 
 peel, and a Jittle stale bread. 
 
 The hare or duck cooked in the earth- 
 en pot must be cut in pieces two inches 
 square. Color the soup with browning, 
 throw in the forcemeat balls and cut 
 meat ; boil it up quick, and add half a 
 pint of port wine. 
 
 72. YELOUTE. 
 
 Take the cuttings and remains of any 
 joints of fowls and veal you may happen 
 to have, weigh four pounds, aud put into 
 a large stewpan. with some onions, 
 carrots, parsley, scallions, three bay 
 leaves, three cloves, and a ladleful of 
 stock ; put your stewpan upon a brisk 
 fire, skim well, and be careful the meat 
 does not stick; when enough reduced 
 add as much stock as will nearly fill the 
 stewpan, salt it well, give it a boil, skim, 
 and then put it on the side of the fire to 
 simmer for two hours, after which strain 
 it through a tammy ; make a white roux ; 
 stir into it for ten minutes a few cham- 
 pignons, then pour on it, a little at a 
 time, the above liquor, let it boil up 
 once, skim, and set it again by the side 
 of the fire for an hour and a half, remove 
 all fat, strain again and then put by for 
 use. The veloute should be colorless, 
 the whiter it is the better. 
 
 73. PIGEON SOUP. 
 
 Take half a dozen of the fattest pigeons 
 you can get, roast them only sufficient to 
 warm them through ; cut the meat from 
 the bones; flour the latter well, and 
 pound them in a mortar ; stew them in 
 
GAME AND VEGETABLE SOUPS. 
 
 179 
 
 a pint and a half of good gravy, add. a 
 piece of butter rolled in flour, a bunch of 
 tarragon, chervil, a few onions, shalots, 
 parsley, and basil, a few turnips, and 
 carrots sliced ; season with cayenne and 
 one blade of mace. Boil slowry two 
 hours, pour, and pass through a cullen- 
 der. Pulp through a tammy, and then 
 with the flesh of the pigeons put them 
 into a saucepan. Let it simmer one hour 
 and serve. 
 
 74 SNAPPING TUETLE SOUP. 
 
 Clean and dissect your snapping turtle ; 
 add water according to size, taking care 
 not to put in enough to thin the soup. 
 Stew six or eight hours. Add a teacup- 
 ful of browned flour, four ounces of 
 butter, six eggs, one ounce of cloves, one 
 ounce of mace, one ounce of allspice, half 
 a pint of sherry wine; boil up and 
 serve. 
 
 Soup may be made in the same way of 
 the " couter " of the South. Forcemeat 
 balls made of veal are usually added, 
 with the eggs found in the couter. 
 
 75. SAVOET JELLY. 
 
 Take half a pig-'s head, boil it for one 
 hour, then cut the meat into small pieces, 
 put it again into the saucepan with half 
 the liquor it was boiled in, add a little 
 seasoning of pepper, salt, and mace, boil 
 another hour ; turn it into a mould to 
 get cold. The above is excellent made 
 from calf's head, which in many country- 
 places can be bought for a trifle ; but the 
 mould should then be 'lined with hard 
 boiled eggs, cut into slices, and a little 
 parsley added to the seasoning. This is 
 . an economical Breakfast or supper dish. 
 
 76 PAETEIDGE SOUP. 
 
 When you have a brace of partridges 
 which prove to be remarkably old. con- 
 vert them into soup. Skin and cut them 
 
 up, cut a handsome slice of ham as lean 
 as possible and divide it in four, or cut as 
 many thin slices, put them in the pan, 
 add the partridges with an oniori sliced, 
 some celery, and four ounces of butter ; 
 brown nicely without burning, put them 
 into the stewpan with one quart and a 
 pint of water, throw in a few white pep- 
 pers whole, a shank of mutton, salt it to 
 palate, strain, add stewed celery, fried 
 bread, and previous to its boiling skim 
 very clean and serve up. 
 
 77. VEGETABLE SOUPS. 
 
 Although many of the following soups 
 are made purely of vegetables, yet some 
 and those generally the best are 
 made on a foundation of some sort of 
 meat-broth in which the roots are stewed. 
 
 The broth is therefore the real stock 
 on which these soaps are made, though 
 each bears the name of the vegetable 
 which gives it flavor ; but when made 
 solely from herbs, roots, and vegetables, 
 and used as the basis. for the formation of 
 soupes-maigresj* the stock is then com- 
 posed of every sort in season which can, 
 by long stewing, be reduced to a pulp, 
 in which every species of savory herbs 
 such as chervil, tarragon, and marjoram 
 are mixed, together with a few chilis, 
 shalots, and a head of garlic, seasoned 
 with mace, whole peppers, salt, and 
 mushroom ketchup; to which may be 
 added a little curry-powder. The pulp 
 is then strained ; and, being thus rather 
 highly seasoned, inay be kept for a few 
 days, and used in aid of any other soup. 
 It must be left to simmer during several 
 hours; and should it need browning, 
 some sliced onions, fried in butter, will 
 be all that is necessary. 
 
 Thus all the roots and most of such 
 vegetables as can be easily made into 
 purees, and combined with any sort of 
 broth, will, in this manner, make excel- 
 lent soup of different denominations, 
 
180 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 though all founded upon the same meat- 
 stock. The gravy of beef is always pre- 
 ferred for savory soups, and that of veal 
 or fowls for the more delicate white 
 soups: to which from half a pint to a 
 pint of cream, or, if that cannot be had, 
 the same quantity of milk and the yolks 
 of a couple of raw eggs should be added 
 for every two quarts of soup ; remember- 
 ing, however, that the latter will not im- 
 part the richness of cream. 
 
 Collect whatever vegetables are in 
 season, take equal quantities, turnips, 
 carrots-, cabbage, spinach, celery, parsley, 
 onions, a little mint, &c., add plenty of 
 herbs, cut them fine, put them into the 
 stewpan, in which has previously been 
 placed some oil ; stew gently until the 
 vegetables become tender, then add two 
 quarts of boiling water j stew a quarter 
 of an hour and serve. 
 
 Some cooks advocate the introduction 
 of peas, green or white, to this soup: 
 where they are used, they must be boil- 
 ed until tender hi very little water, then 
 mashed into a very loose paste; the 
 vegetables having been scalded are then 
 added, and two nours will suffice for 
 stewing ; season it with salt an J pepper. 
 
 Be careful that it does not burn while 
 cooking, or the whole is spoiled. 
 
 78.-TOMATO SOUP. 
 
 Stew half a ^eck of tomatoes slowly 
 an hour and a half in a pint of water ; 
 pass them through a tamis ; add half 
 a gallon of veal or mutton broth. Pass 
 through a tamis enough stale bread 
 to thicken the soup. Fry twelve onions 
 brown, and strain them the same way. 
 Add them to the soup with a bunch of 
 fine herbs, and seasoning to taste. Boil 
 up well, and serve. 
 
 79.-BEAN SOUP. 
 
 Soak two quarts of dried white beans 
 all night and put on the soup early. To 
 
 five pounds of beef allow one of bacon 
 cut small. Boil and skim it and put 
 in the beans, drained, and a head of celery 
 cut small. Boil slowly till the beans are 
 melted and the soup is done ; strain it, 
 and serve with toasted bread. 
 
 80. ASPARAGUS SOUP WITH GREEN 
 PEAS. 
 
 Make a soup of roots, and when strain- 
 ed, boil a pint of green peas in the liquor. 
 Choose some middling-sized asparagus, 
 cut them in pieces about three inches 
 long, blanch them in boiling water, and 
 then throw them into cold water ; drain 
 them and tie them in small bunches, split 
 the tops and boil them with the peas. 
 When done make a puree of them and 
 mix it with the root soup, and garnish 
 with the asparagus. Good meat-broth 
 may be used instead of the root soup. 
 
 81. SOUP DE L'ASPEKGE. 
 Cut into thin slices half a pound of 
 bacon, lay them in the bottom of the 
 stewpan, cut into lumps six pounds of 
 lean beef and roll it well in flour, cover 
 the pan close, shake occasionally until 
 the gravy is all drawn, then add half a 
 pint of old ale and two quarts of water ; 
 throw in some whole peppers and a 
 spoonful of salt, stew gently for an hour, 
 skim the fat. and when an hour has 
 elapsed strain off the soup, then put in it 
 some spinach, two cabbage lettuces, the 
 leaves of white beet, a little mint, pow- 
 dered sweet aroma and sorrel, boil them, 
 then put in the tops of asparagus cut 
 small ; when they are tender the soup is 
 done ; serve up hot with a French roll hi 
 the middle. 
 
 82. POTAGE A LA JULIENNE (Julien Soup.) 
 Take some carrots and turnips, and 
 turn them ribbon like, a few heads of celery, 
 some leeks and onions, and cut them all 
 into fillets, thus . Then take 
 
VEGETABLE SOUPS. 
 
 181 
 
 about two ounces of butter and lay it at 
 the bottom of the stewpan, with the roots 
 over the butter. Fry them on a slow 
 fire, and keep stirring gently ; moisten 
 them with broth and gravy of veal, and 
 let them boil on the corner of the stove ; 
 skim all the fat off, and put in a little 
 sugar to take off the bitter taste of the 
 vegetables : you may in summer-time add 
 green peas, asparagus-tops, French beans, 
 some lettuce, or sorrel. In winter-time, 
 the taste of the vegetables being too 
 strong, you must blanch them, and im- 
 mediately after stew them in the broth : 
 if they were fried in butter "their taste 
 would also be too strong. Add bread, 
 as above, in the tureen. 
 
 83. THE JULIENNE WITH CONSOMME 
 (or Broth of Fowl.) 
 
 The same as above, only you moisten 
 it with consomm of fowl, and put in 
 the back of a roasted chicken, from the 
 preceding day, which stew with the 
 roots ; when boiled for one hour, take it 
 out of the broth, and send up with the 
 bread, as above. 
 
 84. JULIENNE, OE VEGETABLE BKOTH. 
 
 Cut various kinds of vegetables in 
 pieces, celery, carrots, turnips, onions, &c., 
 and having put two ounces of butter in the 
 bottom of a stewpan, put the vegetables 
 on the top of the butter, together with 
 any others that may be in season ; stew or 
 fry them over a slow fire, keeping them 
 stirred, and adding a little of the stock 
 occasionally ; soak small pieces of crust 
 of bread in the remainder of the broth 
 or stock, and when the vegetables are 
 nearly stewed, add them, and warm the 
 whole up together 
 
 85-SOYEE'S JULIENNE SOUP. 
 This soup is entirely the hereditary 
 property of France, and is supposed to be 
 so called from the months of June and 
 12 
 
 July, when all vegetables are in full 
 'eason; and to make it in reality as 
 originally made, a small quantity of 
 every description of vegetables should 
 )e used, including lettuce, sorrel, and 
 tarragon; however, some few sorts of 
 vegetables, mixed together, make a most 
 estimable soup. Weigh half a pound of 
 ;he vegetables in fair proportions to each 
 other, that is. carrots, turnips, onions, 
 celery, and leeks, which cut into small 
 fillets an inch in length, and of the thick- 
 ness of a trussing-needle j when done, 
 wash dry, and pass them in butter and 
 ugar as before, add two quarts of clear 
 soup, adding, just before it is done, a 
 little sorrel, cabbage-lettuce, and chervil 
 or peas, if handy, but it will be excellent 
 without either. 
 
 86. A SPRING SOUP. 
 The following is recommended for puri- 
 fying the blood, and consequently clear- 
 ing the complexion : Take a handful of 
 fresh sorrel and a handful of water-cress- 
 es ; cut them up fine, but do not chop 
 them ; put them into about two quarts 
 of boiling water, adding a carrot cut up 
 in small pieces, three or four potatoes, 
 cut in quarters, two slices of bread (if 
 of a sixpenny loaf), also cut up; pepper 
 and salt to taste. Boil well till the soup 
 assumes a consistency, which it will do 
 as the vegetables and bread dissolve in 
 it. Stir it frequently, and it will prove 
 a very palatable soup. With a moderate 
 fire it may be prepared in about two 
 hours. The liquor from any boiled meat 
 may be used instead of plain water. 
 
 87.-MACAEONI, WITH CONSOMM6, OE 
 STOCK-BROTH. 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of Naples 
 macaroni, and boil it in water, till it is 
 nearly done. Strain well, and put it 
 into a rich consomme to boil. Let it be 
 
182 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 well done ; grate some Parmesan cheese, 
 which send up separately in a plate. 
 
 88.-CABBAGE SOUP. 
 
 Take four or six pounds of beef, boil 
 with it some black pepper whole for 
 three hours, cut three or four cabbages 
 in quarters, boil them until they are 
 quite tender, turn them into a dish, and 
 serve all together. 
 
 89.-MACAEONI SOUP. 
 
 Take a quart of gravy soup: break 
 two ounces of Naples macaroni into 
 pieces of little more than an inch long, 
 putting them, by degrees, into a small 
 portion of the boiling soup, to prevent 
 them from sticking together, and let 
 them boil until quite tender, but not soft 
 or pulpy from fifteen to twenty minutes 
 if quite fresh, but nearly half an hour if 
 at all stale. Vermicelli is used in the 
 same manner. They will improve the 
 consistence of the soup if the quantity 
 above stated be added : but it is useless 
 and does not look well to see, as at some 
 tables, only a few strings of it floating 
 in the tureen. The flavor will also be 
 much improved if a small quantity of 
 Parmesan cheese be either melted in it, 
 or grated and served up separately. 
 
 90. SOUP 1 LA CKECI, OE CAEEOT SOUP. 
 Cut half a pound of lean ham in dice, 
 three onions, four turnips, twelve carrots, 
 the outer side red only, a head of celery, a 
 fagot of sweet herbs, two blades of mace, 
 six cloves, a bay-lea^ and half a pound of 
 salt butter ; fry all well down in a stew- 
 pan until they get a little brown, then 
 add some second stock, and stew until 
 all the roots are quite tender, then rub it 
 through a tammy sieve or tammy cloth 
 with two long spoons ; if very thick, add 
 more stock. Season with cayenne and 
 black pepper, and salt, and a good bit of 
 sugar j send up on a napkin some nice 
 
 fried bread cut in small dice, and not 
 greasy. 
 
 91. GEEEJT PEA POEEIDGE. 
 
 (A most delicious potage.) 
 
 Green peas three pints, milk three 
 pints, butter one-quarter of a pound, flour 
 enough for thickening. 
 
 Boil the peas in just water enough to 
 cook them until they are tender; then 
 pour in the milk ; when it boils, add the 
 butter and flour rubbed well together; 
 let it boil long enough to cook the flour ; 
 season with pepper and salt, and serve 
 hot. 
 
 92. GEEEN PEA SOUP. 
 Put two quarts of green peas into a 
 stewpan with a quarter of a pound of 
 butter, a quarter of a pound of lean ham, 
 cut into small dice, two onions in slices, 
 and a few sprigs of parsley ;' add a quart 
 of cold water, and with the hands rub all 
 well together ; then pour off the water, 
 cover the stewpan close, and stand it over 
 a sharp fire, stirring the contents round 
 occasionally ; when very tender, add two 
 tablespoonfuls of flour, which mix well 
 in mashing the peas with your spoon 
 against the sides of the stewpan ; add 
 two quarts of stock, or broth from the 
 Pot-au-feu, a table-spoonful of sugar, and 
 a little pepper and salt, if required ; boil 
 all well together five minutes, when rub 
 it through a tammy or hair sieve ; then 
 put it into another stewpan, with a pint 
 of boiling milk ; boil five minutes, skim 
 well, and pour it into your tureen. It 
 must not be too thick j serve with crou-* 
 tons of bread. 
 
 93. WINTEB PEA SOUP. 
 
 Wash a quart of split peas, which put 
 
 into a stewpan with half a pound of 
 
 streaked bacon, two onions in slices, two 
 
 pounds of veal or beef, cut into small 
 
VEGETABLE SOUPS. 
 
 183 
 
 pieces, and a little parsley, thyme, and 
 bay-leaf; add a gallon of water, with a 
 little salt and sugar ; place it upon the 
 fire, and when boiling, stand it at the side 
 until the peas are boiled to a puree, and 
 the water has reduced to half; then take 
 out the meat, which put upon a dish, to 
 be eaten with the bacon, keeping it hot ; 
 rub the soup through a hair sieve or tam- 
 my, $ut it into another stewpan, and 
 when boiling, serve. The meat may also 
 be served in the tureen if approved of. 
 Maigre pea soup may also be made by 
 omitting the meat, adding half a pound 
 of butter, one quart of milk, and omitting 
 a quart of water. 
 
 94.- LEEK, OR ONION SOUP. 
 
 The liquor in which a leg of mutton 
 has been boiled will do very well for this 
 broth. Mix a spoonful or two of oat- 
 meal, according to the quantity of broth, 
 in cold water, very smooth, the same as 
 if for grjiel ; add a little of the broth, by 
 degrees, until the whole is incorporated ; 
 then boil the liquor with any quantity of 
 leeks or onions both or either until it 
 becomes of the consistence of cream. Or ? 
 omit the oatmeal, and substitute flour, 
 stirring the soup very hard for five min- 
 utes ; and when you are about taking it 
 from the fire, stir in the yolks of two raw 
 eggs beat up with a little more broth, 
 and serve it immediately. 
 
 Onions, peeled, pared, and cut into 
 pieces, then shred into a pan and fried in 
 either oil or butter, without any broth 
 but simply having boiling water poured 
 over them, and some toasted bread, sea- 
 soned merely with pepper and salt, are 
 considered very refreshing when thus 
 made into a soup, and much used by 
 ladies throughout Europe after the fa- 
 tigues of a ball. 
 
 95. POTATO SOUP MAIGEE. 
 
 Take some large mealy potatoes ; pee! 
 
 and cut them into small slices with an 
 onion ; boil them in three pints of water 
 till tender, and then pulp them through a 
 colander ; add a small piece of butter, a 
 ittle cayenne pepper and salt, and, just be- 
 bre the soup is served, two spoonfuls of 
 good cream. The soup must not be al- 
 owed to boil after the cream, has been 
 put into it. 
 
 96. TOMATO SOUP. 
 
 Wash, scrape, and cut small the red 
 part of three large carrots, three heads of 
 celery, four large onions, and two large 
 turnips ; put them into a saucepan with 
 a table-spoonful of butter, and half a 
 pound of lean new ham ; let them stew 
 very gently for an hour, then add 'three 
 quarts of brown gravy soup, and some 
 whole black pepper, with eight or ten 
 ripe tomatoes ; let it boil an hour and a 
 half, and pulp it through a sieve ; serve 
 it with fried bread cut hi dice. 
 
 97.-SOUP SOEEEL A SUMMEE SOUP. 
 
 Take a good quantity of sorrel and mix 
 with it the top leaves of beet-root ; boil 
 them thoroughly; press them enough to 
 extract all the water, and chop them un- 
 til they are almost a paste ; when they 
 are quite cold, add the coldest spring wa- 
 ter attainable, and mix until rather thick- 
 er than cream ; cut in thin slices two 
 cucumbers steeped in a mixture of vine- 
 gar and a little cayenne ; boil three eggs 
 hard, and cut them in very small pieces ; 
 now, having chopped the green ends of 
 young onions small, and added to the 
 paste, pour over cream to your taste, and 
 then add the sliced cucumber and boiled 
 egg ; serve up garnished with clean pieces 
 of ice. 
 
 98. TOMATO SOUP. 
 
 Slice two onions and fry them in but- 
 ter until brown; remove them and fry 
 two dozen tomatoes just sufficient to heat 
 
184 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 them through, then put them into a stew- 
 pan with their gravy and the onions, add 
 a head of celery and a carrot sliced ; ste\jr 
 gently for half an hour, add three pints 
 of grayy, stew an hour and a half, pulp 
 the whole of the vegetables through a 
 sieve, season with white pepper, salt, and 
 cayenne, serve with sippets of toasted 
 bread cut in shapes. 
 
 99. PEPPEB POT. (English.) 
 Put in a stewpan three quarts of wa- 
 ter ; to this add celery, turnips, carrots, 
 lettuces, cut small; add the bones of 
 cold roast meat of any description ; half 
 a pound of bacon, the same weight of 
 salted pork ; stew gently until the meat 
 is tender, taking care to skim when it 
 first boils. 
 
 Boil half a peck of spinach and rub it 
 through a colander ; take the bones out 
 of the soup and add the spinach ; with it 
 the meat of a lobster or crab minced ; 
 season with plenty of cayenne pepper, 
 and salt to taste. 
 
 Suet dumplings may be boiled with it, 
 or a fowl, but this is matter of taste. 
 Mutton or beef may be substituted for 
 bacon or pork ; this will be obvious when 
 it is understood that a pepper pot is pre- 
 sumed to consist of an equal proportion 
 of flesh, fish, fowl and vegetables. 
 
 100. PUEEE OE TUENIP SOUP. 
 Get a bunch of turnips, pare them and 
 cut them in thin slices ; one head of white 
 celery, one onion ; fill up your stewpan 
 with good second white stock, boil them 
 until quite tender, then pass it all through 
 a tammy by rubbing it with wooden 
 spoons, or a tammy sieve ; season with 
 sugar, cayenne and salt. Send up fried 
 bread, as for former soups ; add half a 
 pint of cream the last thing. 
 
 101.-SAUT3 SOUP. 
 Cut carrots, and turnips, and onions 
 
 and celery, as straws, about one inch 
 long, quite thin; the carrots you will 
 trim, using only the red part, the yellow 
 that is left use for your stock pot ; cut 
 your onions in quarters, then cut them 
 the size endways, blanch them for two 
 or three minutes, strain them on the back 
 of a hair sieve to drain ; then add them 
 to the quantity of soup required, allowing 
 half a pint to each person ; therefore, as 
 you must reduce it to have the flavor 
 of your vegetables, allow a pint more, re- 
 ducing it to the quantity you require; 
 season it with lump sugar, cayenne pep- 
 per and salt ; be sure and not go to the 
 extreme. 
 
 102. SPEING SOUP. 
 
 As saute ; the same roots cut different- 
 ly, and add, if to be had, spinach, cab- 
 bage-lettuce, a very little sorrel, as it 
 turns acid on the stomach, all cut rather 
 small, tarragon, chervil, green asparagus, 
 young peas, cucumbers ; cut the asparagus 
 about one inch long, cut the tarrHgon and 
 chervil a little, and a few French beans 
 cut ; use your consomme stock as before, 
 boiling all your green parts particularly 
 green in water a few minutes, leaving 
 them to be sufficiently done in your 
 stock ; if you have a cauliflower boiled, 
 pick a few small pieces and put in the 
 soup-tureen ; the boiling soup when pour- 
 ed in will make it hot ; season as before. 
 
 103. WINTEB VEGETABLE SOUPS. 
 
 Take carrots, turnips, and the heart of 
 a head of celery, cut into dice, with a 
 dozen button onions ; half boil them in 
 salt and water, with a little sugar in it ; 
 then throw them into the broth ; and, 
 when tender, serve up the soup : or use 
 rice, dried peas and lentils, and pulp 
 them into the soup to thicken it. 
 
 With many of these soups, small suet 
 dumplings, very lightly made, and not 
 larger than an egg, are boiled either in 
 broth or water, and put into the tureen 
 
FISH SOUPS. 
 
 185 
 
 lust before serving, and are by most per- 
 sons thought an improvement, but are 
 more usually put into plain gravy-soup 
 than any other, and should be made light 
 enough to swim in it. 
 
 Such are the chief soups made of veg- 
 etables on a foundation of meat; both 
 those made solely of vegetables, without 
 any intermixture of meat broth, may be 
 made into very palatable soups by using 
 the vegetable stock. 
 
 HSH SOUPS. 
 
 Notwithstanding the quantity of ex- 
 cellent fish, this nutritious and economi- 
 cal viand is not often introduced at table 
 in the form of soup. Nothing could be 
 more easy than to multiply receipts for 
 an almost endless variety: those that 
 follow will, however, show how much 
 may be done with many kinds of fish 
 which are not in very high estimation. 
 
 "When not wanted as soupe-maigre, the 
 foundation, or stock, though called " fish- 
 soup," is always better if made of meat, 
 and veal is generally preferred. We. 
 therefore, here add a receipt for its com- 
 position, as it may be applied to any kind 
 of fish ; though, in those which we shall 
 hereafter specify, it is not mentioned, as 
 they are all intended to be maigre. 
 
 104 STOCK FOB FISH SOUP. 
 Take a dozen flounders, or any small 
 flat fish, and the same number of perch ; 
 gut and clean them carefully ; put them 
 into a stewpan with two quarts of strong 
 veal-broth ; add a few slices of lean ham, 
 two or three carrots, celery, and onions 
 cut in slices, some sweet herbs and salt, 
 with a little cayenne ; stew till the fish 
 will pass through a coarse sieve ; then 
 return it into the stewpan, with a good 
 lump of butter and some flour to thicken 
 it ; add a couple of large glasses of white 
 wine, and a large spoonful of garlic vine- 
 gar. The gravy from potted herrings, 
 
 anchovies, or a little Oude sauce, will 
 also improve the flavor. 
 
 This stock, if once reboiled. will, in 
 cold weather, keep well for a month ; or. 
 if served as soup, the quantity may of 
 course be reduced according to the num- 
 ber of the party intended to partake of 
 it, and it will be found excellent. In- 
 deed, tiny species of fish may be made 
 into soup in the same manner. If meant 
 to be browned, the onions should be fried, 
 and a good spoonful of mushroom ketch- 
 up or India soy be added ; and red wine 
 will be better than either sherry or Ma- 
 deira. But if left white, cream should 
 be substituted for ketchup and soy; a 
 glassful of ginger wine will answer the 
 purpose of red wine. 
 
 105. LOBSTER SOUP. 
 If prepared fish-stock be not used, the 
 stock of this soup may be made of any 
 fish not of sufficient consequence to be 
 dressed in any other way. Clean and 
 cut them in pieces, take the meat out of 
 one or two lobsters, cut it into small 
 pieces, and lay it aside ; break the shell 
 and add it to the fish for the stock, 
 which should be boiled gently for several 
 hours; take the coral of the lobster, 
 pound it in a mortar, with a small piece 
 of the stock, partly pounded, and make 
 it up into forcemeat-balls, with a little 
 chopped parsley, bread-crumbs, and an 
 egg. When the stock is sufficiently 
 done, strain it, thicken it with butter and 
 flour, or cream : warm the lobster in it, 
 and send it up, cut small, with the force- 
 meat-balls. Season it also delicately, 
 but yet sufficiently to give it flavor, 
 which can be imparted by any of the 
 compound sauces so commonly adver- 
 tised. 
 
 106. LOBSTER SOUP. 
 To one large hen lobster scalded and 
 cleaned, take two quarts of strong calf s 
 
186 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 feet broth ; pound the shells, small claws, 
 eggs, fat and coral in a mortar, and sim- 
 mer three hours in the soup. Cut the 
 tails into square pieces, and fry them 
 brown. Make the claws into forcemeat* 
 balls with the yolks of two eggs, grated 
 lemon-peel, parsley, thyme, a very little 
 olives, and grated biscuit, and fry them 
 brown. Boil them up in the soup quick- 
 ly in five minutes ; add half a pint of 
 port wine, and lemon to taste ; with salt, 
 pepper, and a little mace. (This is the 
 best soup on record.) 
 
 107. LOBSTEE SOUP. (English.) 
 Extract the meat from the shells of 
 four hen lobsters, which have been boil- 
 ed : put the spawn aside, beat the fins 
 and small claws in a mortar ; then place 
 both in a saucepan, with two quarts of 
 water, until the whole goodness of the 
 fish has been drawn; then strain the 
 liquor. Beat in a mortar the spawn, a 
 lump of.flour and butter ; rub it through 
 a sieve into the soup previously strained ; 
 simmer without boiling, that the color 
 may be preserved, ten minutes ; squeeze 
 in a piece of a lemon, with a little of 
 the essence of anchovies. 
 
 When this dish is sent to table as a 
 feature, forcemeat-balls are served with 
 it; they are made of minced lobster, 
 spawn, crumb of French roll, egg, and 
 mace pounded ; roll it in flour, and serve 
 in the soup. 
 
 108. PUREE OF LOBSTER SOUP. 
 Get two large hen lobsters, take out 
 all the meat, chop and pound it fine, six 
 anchovies boned, put the shells in some 
 second stock to boil for some time, strain 
 off the liquor into your pounded lob- 
 sters, boil all until tender, rub all through 
 a tammy, add one pint of cream ; season 
 with cayenne pepper, a little sugar, and 
 salt, and lemon-juice. 
 
 109. CLAM SOUP. 
 To the liquor of fifty clams, allow 
 
 three quarts of water, and put it on 
 with a knuckle of veal, the bone chop- 
 ped. Simmer three hours, put in a 
 bunch of sweet herbs, nutmeg, mace, a 
 table-spoonful of whole pepper, and stew 
 an hour longer. Then strain and add 
 four ounces of butter rubbed in flour, and 
 the clams chopped in pieces. Boil a 
 quarter of an hour and serve. 
 
 110. OTSTEK SOUP. 
 
 Beard four dozen oysters, preserve the 
 liquor hi opening them, which must be 
 placed with the beards of the oysters in 
 a stewpan ; slice any fish, small fresh- 
 water fish will serve excellently well, 
 and adding them, stew for five or six 
 hours; strain and thicken it, add two 
 spoonfuls of soy or any fish sauce, or 
 omit it, to taste. Add the oysters, and 
 when they are warm through, serve* 
 
 ill. OYSTER SOUP. 
 
 Get four flounders, or similar portions 
 of any fish, four dozen of large oysters, 
 blanch them slightly, take off the beards 
 and gristle, put the beards and fish into 
 some of your best white stock, boil all 
 together for several hours, add four an- 
 chovies washed, strain all off and thicken 
 it with flour and butter, add one pint of 
 cream, put in your oysters you had tak- 
 en care of, the last thing, just boiling 
 them up in the soup ; having passed it 
 through a tammy, season it with cayenne 
 pepper, salt, and a small piece of sugar. 
 
 112. OYSTER SOUP. 
 
 Take fifty oysters, tyancji them, but 
 do not let them boil; strain them 
 through a sieve, and save the liquor. 
 Put one-quarter pound of butter into 
 a stewpan; when it is melted, add six 
 ounces of flour ; stir it over the fire for 
 a few minutes ; add the liquor from the 
 oysters, two quarts of veal stock, one 
 quart of new milk; season with salt, 
 peppercorns, a little cayenne pepper, a 
 blade of mace, Harvey sauce and essence 
 
FISH SOUPS. 
 
 187 
 
 of anchovies, a tablespoonful each ; strain 
 it through a tammy ; let it boil ten min- 
 utes ; put the oysters into the tureen 
 with a gill of cream, and pour the boil- 
 ing soup upon them. 
 
 118.-EEL SOUP. 
 
 Take any number of pounds of eels, 
 according to the quantity required ; add 
 two-thirds water. If about three or four 
 pounds of eels, add one onion, a small 
 quantity of mace, a little pepper whole, 
 sweet herbs, a crust of the top side of 
 bread ; cover down close ; stew till 'the 
 fish separates, strain. Toast slices of 
 bread deep brown, but not to burn ; cut 
 into triangular pieces or squares, a piece 
 of carrot two inches long, cut into four 
 slices lengthwise, put into a tureen with 
 the toast, pour the soup on; boiling 
 cream may be added thickened with a 
 little flour, but it should be rich enough 
 without it. 
 
 114. NEW ENGLAND CHOWDEB. 
 Have a good haddock, cod, or any other 
 solid fish, cut it in pieces three inches 
 square, put a pound of fat salt pork in 
 strips into the pot. set it on hot coals, 
 and fry out the oil. Take out the pork, 
 and put in a layer of fish, over that a 
 layer of onions in slices, then a layer of 
 fish with strips of fat salt pork, then 
 another layer of onions, and so on alter- 
 nately until your fish is consumed. Mix 
 some flour with as much water as will 
 fill the pot; season with black pepper 
 and salt to your taste, and boil it for hal: 
 an hour. Have ready some crackers 
 soaked in water till they are a little soft 
 ened; throw them* into your chowde 
 five minutes before you take them up 
 Serve in a tureen. 
 
 
 
 115. NEW ENGLAND CHOWDEB. 
 
 Cover the bottom of a pot with slice 
 
 of boiled salt pork, with a little onions 
 
 on this place a layer of fish in larg 
 
 ieces, season with pepper, and cover it 
 with a layer of biscuit soaked in milk, 
 md a layer of sliced potatoes. Put above 
 
 his another layer of pork, as before, 
 with fish, &c., the biscuit being on the top 
 )f all. Pour In a pint and a half of 
 water, cover, and boil it slowly an 
 iour ; then skim and turn it into a deep 
 dish. Thicken the gravy with butter 
 rolled in flour, and parsley. 
 
 116 .CLAM SOUP. 
 
 Boil a knuckle of veal in as much 
 water as will cover it well. When it has 
 soiled about half or a quarter of an hour, 
 open hah a peck of clams by placing 
 the.m over the fire, in a very small quan- 
 tity of water. Pour the juice of the 
 clams into the pot which contains the 
 knuckle of veal. Boil the soup three or 
 four hours, seasoning it with a table- 
 spoonful of pepper. Add no salt, as the 
 clam juice will have made it salt enough. 
 When the veal is quite tender, cut up 
 the clams in small pieces (that is to say, 
 each clam in three or more pieces), and 
 throw them into the soup, with a quar- 
 ter of a pound of butter chopped into 
 bits. Some persons roll the butter in 
 flour, which they think makes it mix 
 with the clam juice ; others use no flour, 
 as they dislike to detect the taste of the 
 flour. 
 
 117. CLAM SOUP, 
 (Prepared by a Dublin Lady.) 
 Put forty or fifty clams, in the shells, 
 with as little water as possible. When 
 the liquor has run out from the opened 
 shells, take the clams out and chop them 
 fine, with an onion, a bunch of minced 
 celery, and some mace and pepper. Put 
 all in the soup, and thicken it with two 
 tablespoonfuls of butter rolled in flour, 
 and if you choose, add a little milk. 
 Simmer twenty minutes; stir in the 
 beaten yolks of five eggs ; put bits of 
 toasted bread into the tureen and serve. 
 
188 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 118. LAKE AND POND FISH SOUP. 
 For every person take a pound each of 
 any fresh-water fish that can be obtain- 
 ed ; wash them in salt and water, and 
 stew them with a tomato, carrots, leeks, 
 fried onions, and sweet herbs, in as much 
 water as will cover them ; and let them 
 stew until the whole is reduced to a 
 pulp ; then strain the liquor, and boil it 
 for another hour until it becomes quite 
 smooth. Then have ready some roots 
 of any sort that may be in season, which 
 have been chopped small, and boiled 
 either in milk or water : add them to the 
 soup, and let it simmer for one-quarter of 
 an hour ; season it, if milk has been 
 used, with mace and celery, with a little 
 cayenne ; but if made solely with water, 
 then use Chili vinegar, soy, mushroom 
 ketchup, or any of the savory sauces. 
 
 FISH. 
 
 Fish should be well washed, scaled, 
 and cleaned, by .drawing the entrails 
 through a slit in the under side. The 
 roe and liver should be separated, wash- 
 ed, and cooked with the fish. The roe 
 proves the fish in season. Slimy fish 
 may be scalded in salt and water, but 
 must be dried before cooking. 
 
 Fresh fish, when boiled, should be 
 placed in cold, and shell-fish in boiling 
 water. 
 
 To keep oysters after washing them, 
 lay them in a tub in a cool cellar, with 
 the deep part of the shell undermost. 
 Sprinkle them with salt and Indian meal, 
 then fill the tub with cold water. Change 
 the water every day. and the oysters 
 will keep fresh a fortnight. 
 
 Fish should be garnished with horse- 
 radish or parsley. The only vegetable 
 served with fish is potatoes. 
 
 119. SALT AND FBESH- WATER FISH. 
 
 When boiling fish put a little salt and 
 
 a little vinegar into the water to give the 
 fish firmness. Be careful to let fish be 
 well done, but not to let it break. When 
 very fresh, cod and whiting are very 
 much improved by keeping a day, and 
 rubbing a little salt down the back-bone. 
 Fresh-water fish often have a muddy 
 smell and taste, which is easily got rid 
 of by soaking it. After it has been 
 thoroughly cleansed in strong salt and 
 water, if the fish is not too large, scald 
 it in the same, then dry and dress it. 
 
 Fish that is to be boiled must be put on 
 the fire in cold hard water ; when it boils, 
 skim with the greatest care ; throw in a 
 little cup of cold water to check the ex- 
 treme of heat, then keep it simmering 
 only, lest the outside break before the 
 thick and inner part be done; but 
 "crimped fish" should be put into boil- 
 ing water, and simmered a few minutes. 
 
 When it boils up, some cold water 
 should be put into it to check it, and 
 keep it simmering. The cover should be 
 kept on the kettle to prevent soot falling 
 in and discoloring the fish. Fish should 
 be boiled with a handful of salt, and half 
 a teacupful of vinegar. All fish should 
 be taken out of the water the instant it 
 is done, or it will become woolly. To as- 
 certain when it is done, the fish-plate 
 may be drawn up, and, if done, the meat 
 will leave the bone. To keep it hot. and 
 to prevent it losing its color, the fish-plate 
 should be placed across the fish-kettle, and 
 a clean cloth put over the fish. If left in 
 the water after it is ready, fish loses its 
 firmness. Serve fish on a napkin. 
 
 It is impossible to dress fish too fresh. 
 Some kinds will bear keeping better than 
 others, but none ar< improved by it. 
 
 Families who purchase a whole salmon, 
 and like it quite fresh, should parboil the 
 portion not required for the day's con- 
 sumption, and lay it aside in the liquor, 
 boiling up the whole together when 
 wanted. By this means the curd will 
 set, and the fish be equally good on thf 
 
FISH. 
 
 189 
 
 following day. The custom of serving 
 up rich sauces, such as lobster, is unknown 
 in salmon countries; a little lemon peel 
 or white vinegar being quite sufficient, 
 added to melted butter. Salmon should 
 be garnished with parsley and scraped 
 horseradish. 
 
 Small fish may be nicely fried plain, or 
 done with egg and bread crumbs, and then 
 fried. Upon the dish on which the fish 
 is to be served should be placed a damask 
 napkin, folded, and upon this put the 
 fish, with the roe and liver ; then garnish 
 the dish with horseradish, parsley, and 
 lemon. 
 
 To boil or fry fish nicely, after it is 
 well washed, it should be put in a cloth, 
 and when dry, wetted with egg and bread 
 crumbs. It will be much improved by 
 being wetted with egg and crumbs a 
 second time. Then have your pan with 
 plenty of boiling dripping or lard, put 
 your fish into it, and let it fry rather 
 quickly till it is of a nice brown and ap- 
 pears done. If it is done before being 
 nicely browned, it should be taken from the 
 pan, and placed on a sieve before the fire 
 to drain and brown. If wanted very nice, 
 put a sheet of cap paper to receive the 
 fish. Should you fry 3 our fish in oil, it 
 obtains a much finer color than when 
 done in lard or dripping. Never use 
 butter, as it makes the fish a bad color 
 Garnish your dish with green or fried 
 parsley. 
 
 In broiling fish, be careful that you 
 gridiron is clean ; place it on the fire 
 and when hot, rub it over with suet t< 
 hinder the fish from sticking. The fish 
 must be floured and seasoned before broil 
 ing. It must be broiled over a clear fire 
 only, and great care must be taken tha 
 it does not bum or become smoky. 
 
 Broiled fish for breakfast should al 
 
 ways be skinned, buttered, and pepperec 
 
 Fish are broiled, fried, boiled, baked 
 
 stewed, in fact cooked in every imaginabl 
 
 ashion ; thdse named are the chief 
 methods. In every kind, the greatest 
 ttention and cleanliness ^nust be exer- 
 ised. A broken, disfigured, or ill-cook- 
 d dish of fish presented at table, is 
 juite sufficient to destroy the taste for 
 t for ever; on the contrary, when neatly 
 done it heightens the relish which every 
 possesses more or less, and imparts 
 an appetite where one may be wanting, 
 while the cook is held hi grateful reniein- 
 jrance. 
 
 120. MAKINADE 
 
 Is commonly used in France for the 
 purpose of boiling fish, which imbibes 
 rom it a more pleasant flavor than it 
 naturally possesses, and has been so 
 generally adopted by professed cooks 
 that we here insert the receipt: Cut 
 up two carrots, three onions, half a dozen 
 shalots, a single clove of garlic, and put 
 them into a stewpan with a piece of but- 
 ter, a bunch of parsley, and a bundle of 
 sweet herbs; fry the whole for a few 
 minutes, then add, very gradually, two 
 bottles of any light wine or of cider. 
 Put in a handful of salt, two dozen of 
 peppercorns, the same quantity of all- 
 spice, and a couple of cloves. Simmer 
 the whole together for one and a half 
 hours, strain the liquor, and put it by for 
 use. 
 
 This marinade,- if carefully strained af- 
 ter the fish has been taken out, will serve 
 several times for the same purpose, add- 
 ing a little water each time. Fish dress- 
 ed in it should simmer very gently, or 
 rather stew than boil, as it affords to 
 mackerel, fresh herrings, perch, roach, 
 and any of the small river fish, the ad- 
 vantage of dissolving, or so thoroughly 
 softening their bones as to render them 
 more agreeable in eating. For large fish, 
 they should be cut into steaks before 
 being marinaded. Instead of the wine 
 or cider, a quart of table-beer, a glass of 
 
190 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 BO j, one of essence of anchovies, and one 
 of ketchup, may be used ; or a pint of 
 vinegar and hese sauces, fennel, chives, 
 thyme, and bay-leaves, may be added 
 with the wine, cider, &c. Or, choose a 
 kettle that will suit the size of the fish, 
 into which put two parts water, one of 
 light (not sweet) white wine, a good 
 piece of butter, some stewed onions and 
 carrots, pepper, salt, two or three cloves, 
 and a good bunch of sweet herbs ; sim- 
 mer one-quarter of an hour, let it be- 
 come cold, then boil the fish therein. 
 Serve with anchovy-sauce and a squeeze 
 of lemon. 
 
 121. COD FISH. 
 
 Fresh cod is good boiled, fried, or 
 made into a chowder. It is too dry a 
 fish to broil. Salt cod should be soaked 
 in lukewarm water till the skin will 
 come off easily then take up the fish, 
 scrape off the skin, and put it in fresh 
 water, and set it on a very moderate fire, 
 where it will keep warm without boil- 
 ing, as it hardens by boiling. It takes 
 between three and four hours to cook it 
 soft serve it up with drawn butter. 
 
 122. TO BOIL COD FISH. 
 
 Crimped cod is preferable to the plain ; 
 it is' likewise better cut in slices than 
 cooked whole ; to boil it well, have the 
 water ready boiling with one pound of salt 
 to every six quarts ; put in your fish, draw 
 your fish-kettle to the corner of the fire, 
 where let it simmer slowly from twenty 
 minutes to half an hour; when done, 
 the bone in the centre will draw out 
 easily ; if boiled too much, it would eat 
 tough and stringy ; should the fish not 
 be crimped, add more salt to the water, 
 it will cause the fish to eat firmer. 
 
 128. COD FISH WITH OYSTEE SAUCE. 
 
 Boil three slices of the fish as above, 
 drain and dress them upon a dish with- 
 out a napkin, blanch three dozen oys- 
 ters, by putting them into a stewpan, 
 
 with their juice, upon the fire, move 
 them round occasionally, do not let them 
 boil; as soon as they become a lit- 
 tle firm, place a, sieve over a basin, 
 pour in the oysters, beard them, put the 
 liquor again into the stewpan ; when 
 boiling, add two cloves, half a blade of 
 mace, six peppercorns, and two ounces of 
 butter, to which you have added a table- 
 spoonful of flour, breaking it into small 
 pieces, stir well together, when boiling, 
 season with a little salt, cayenne pepper, 
 and essence of anchovies ; finish with a 
 gill of cream or' milk, add the oysters, 
 and sauce over. The remains of the fish 
 may be taken from the bone and placed 
 upon a dish, with a little of the above 
 sauce (to which you have added the 
 yolks of two eggs), then sprinkle over 
 with bread-crumbs, and place it twenty 
 minutes in a hot oven till the bread- 
 crumbs become brown. 
 
 124 COD SOUNDS. EAGOUT. 
 
 The sounds should not be much soaked, 
 but thoroughly cleaned. Simmer them 
 for a short time, broil them, having first 
 floured them ; when they are just tender, 
 stew them in white gravy which has 
 been well seasoned, add a little cream, a 
 bit of butter, a spoonful of flour, give it 
 
 boil, flavor with nutmeg^a small piece 
 of lemon-peel, and a dash of pounded 
 mace; serve. 
 
 125.-SLICES OF COD. 
 Three slices make a small dish ; put 
 them in a baking-dish, cover them over 
 with some go'od second stock, a little es- 
 sence of anchovies ; when done thicken 
 the stock, and pass it through a ttlmmy, 
 pour it over your fish, season with cay- 
 enne pepper, and salt, and lemon juice ; 
 if for capers add them, if for maitre 
 d'hotel, add cream and parsley chopped 
 fine. 
 
 126. CODFISH AU GEATIN. 
 
 This is the best mode of using the re 
 
FISH. 
 
 191 
 
 mains of a ' dressed codfish. Put some 
 cold oyster-sauce at the bottom of a pie- 
 dish, then a layer of the codfish (season- 
 ed with pepper, salt, and an atom of 
 nutmeg), with any of the liver and 
 sound that remains ; then repeat the lay- 
 ers of sauce and fish until the dish is full ; 
 cover it with bread-crumbs, sprinkle a 
 little butter over, and bake for about 
 half an hour. 
 
 127. COD OMELETTE. 
 
 Break into small pieces the thickest 
 parts of a dressed cod, season it with a 
 little grated nutmeg and a little pounded 
 mace, beat up. six eggs well and mix with 
 it, forming it into a paste, fry it as an 
 omelette, and serve as hot as possible. 
 
 128. FISH CAKE. 
 
 Take the meat from the bones of any 
 kind of cold fish, which latjer put with 
 the head and fins into* a stewpan with a 
 pint of water, a little salt, pepper, an on- 
 ion, and a fagot of sweet herbs to stew 
 for gravy. Mince the meat, and mix it 
 well with crumbs of bread and cold po- 
 tatoes (equal parts), a little parsley and 
 seasoning. Make into a cake, with the 
 white of an egg, or a little butter or 
 milk ; egg it over and cover with bread- 
 crumbs, then fry a little brown. Pour 
 the gravy over, and stew gently fifteen 
 minutes, stirring it carefully twice or 
 thrice. Serve hot, and garnish with 
 slices of lemon, or parsley. 
 
 
 
 129. TO COOK SHEEPSHEAD. 
 
 Rub it with salt and lemon before put- 
 
 Fried Whiting. 
 ting it into the water. To every six 
 
 quarts of water add one pound of salt 
 Boil a twenty pound fish twenty min- 
 utes. Serve on a napkin ; garnish with 
 parsley, and eat it with shrirtp or lob- 
 ster sauce. 
 
 130. WHITING AND GEATIN. 
 
 Skin the whitings, and turn their tails 
 into their mouths ; put them into a but- 
 tered saut6pan, with a table-spoonful of 
 chopped onions and four of brofvn sauce 
 over each; sprinkle over them bread- 
 crumbs and butter, and bake in a mode- 
 rate oven half an hour. Dress them on 
 a dish without a napkin. Put twelve 
 table-spoonfuls more brown sauce into 
 the pan. with a tea-spoonful of chopped 
 mushrooms, one of chopped parsley, one 
 of essence of anchovy ; pepper, salt, and 
 sugar a little ; pour round the dish, and 
 brown it with a salamander. 
 
 131. HALIBUT. 
 
 Halibut should be cut into slices of 
 four pounds each, and may be baked or 
 fried. The skin on the back must be 
 scored. When baked, use a sufficient 
 quantity of butter to keep it moist. If 
 boiled, lay it in the kettle on a strainer, 
 cover it with salted water ; boil it slowly 
 half or three-quarters of an hour and skim 
 it well. Garnish it with horseradish, 
 serve it with melted butter. To fry hal- 
 ibut, cut it in slices less than an inch 
 thick ; and with this, as with all other 
 fish, take care to have plenty of butter, 
 lard, or oil in the pan, and that it be hot 
 before the fish is put in. 
 
 182. HALIBUT STEWED. 
 
 Put into a stewpan half a pint of fjsh 
 broth, a table-spoonful of vinegar, and 
 one of mushroom ketchup ; add an ancho- 
 vy, two good-sized onions cut in quarters, 
 a bunch of sweet herbs, and one clove of 
 garlic ; add a pint and a half of water, 
 let it stew an hour and a Quarter, strain 
 
192 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 it off clear, put into it the head and 
 shoulders of a fine halibut and stew un- 
 til tender ; thicken with butter and flour, 
 and serve* 
 
 133. TO COLLOP HALIBUT. 
 
 Cut the fish into nice cutlets of about 
 an inch thick and fry them ; then put 
 them into a broth made of the bones, 
 four onions, a stick of celery, and a bun- 
 dle of sweet herbs boiled together for 
 half an hour. Strain this broth, thicken 
 it, and stew the fish for half an hour, 
 adding salt, pepper, a grating of nutmeg 
 and pounded mace, a spoonful of soy or 
 fish-sauce, and half that quantity of lem- 
 on juice with a little shred lemon peel. 
 
 134. HALIBUT A LA CEEME. 
 
 Bub the halibut with salt and lemon ; 
 put it to boil in a kettle, allowing one 
 ounce of salt to every six quarts of wa- 
 ter ; simmer oven, a moderate fire. A 
 halibut of eight pounds should simmer 
 twenty minutes or more. When it be- 
 gins to crack slightly, lift it with a drain- 
 er, and dish it without a napkin, having 
 it first carefully drained, and absorbing 
 the water that runs from the fish with a 
 napkin. Put one pint of cream on the 
 fire in a stewpan, and when near simmer- 
 ing add half a pound of fresh butter ; stir 
 it quickly till the butter is melted, but do 
 not let the cream. boil ; add three yolks 
 of eggs, season with salt, pepper and lem- 
 on juice ; pour as much over the halibut 
 as will cover it, and serve the remainder 
 in a boat. Or, if preferred, dish the fish 
 on a napkin, garnish with parsley, and 
 serve the sauce in a boat. This sauce 
 must not be made until the moment it is 
 panted. 
 
 185. TO DEY HADDOCK. 
 Choose the finest you can obtain; 
 clean them, remove the eyes, the entrails, 
 and the gills ; clear away also all the 
 
 blood from the backbone. Wipe them 
 as dry as you can with a clean soft cloth, 
 and fill in with salt the spaces which con- 
 tained the eyes ; also rub in a quantity 
 in the inside of the fish ; lay them in a 
 cool place on a dry flag -stone, or a piece 
 of board for eighteen or twenty hours, 
 then hang them in a dry place. Foiir 
 days will be found quite sufficient to pre- 
 pare them for eating. 
 
 136. TO DEES8 DEIED HADDOCK. 
 
 They should be skinned, rubbed with 
 egg, and rolled in new bread-crumbs ; lay 
 them in a dish before the fire to brown, 
 baste with butter, and when well brown- 
 ed serve with egg sauce. 
 
 137. TO DEESS HADDOCK. 
 
 Clean them very thoroughly, and take 
 off the heads and the skin ; put them 
 into boiling, water, throw in two moder- 
 ate-sized handfuls of salt ; let them boil 
 as fast as possible, and when they rise to 
 the surface (which they will do, if they 
 have sufficient room), they are done 
 enough. They are sent to table with 
 plain butter for sauce. 
 
 138. BAKED HADDOCK (Soycr's.) 
 
 Fill the interior of the fish with veal 
 stuffing; sew it up with packthread, and 
 truss it with the tail in its mouth, rub a 
 piece of butter over the back, or egg and 
 bread-crumb it over; set it on a baking- 
 dish, which put in a moderate oven to 
 bake ; a common haddock would require 
 but half an hour. The better plan is to 
 run the point of a knife down to the back- 
 bone, from which if the flesh parts easily, 
 it is done ; dress it upon a dish without 
 a napkin, and serve a sauce round. 
 
 189. TO BAKE HADDOCK. 
 
 Cut off the heads, trim and bone them, 
 
 season with pepper and salt ; chop very 
 
 fine a small quantity of mushroom, onion 
 
 and parsley ; spread it over the fish, la;y 
 
FISH. 
 
 193 
 
 on them small pieces of butter, arid place 
 them in a dish with crumbs of bread ; 
 bake them from fifty minutes to an hour ; 
 gkim the gravy, and serve up in the same 
 dish as that in which it was cooked. 
 
 140. HEEEINGS. 
 
 Herrings are dressed in a variety of 
 fashions ; they are fried, boiled, broiled, 
 dried, potted, baked, smoked pickled. 
 
 There are three sorts of herrings, fresh, 
 salted, and red herrings ; they are cleaned 
 like any other sort of fish ; when fresh 
 they are boiled and served with melted 
 butter, white sauce, &c. ; the salted her- 
 ring should be soaked in cold water be- 
 fore it is cooked ; this is broiled. Some- 
 times it is cut in pieces and eaten raw ; 
 the red herring is split down the back, 
 the head and tail taken off, and the fish 
 broiled like the others ; they may be also 
 dressed in the following manner : when 
 they have lain in cold water some time, 
 soak them in milk for two hours ; then 
 split them down the back; have ready 
 some melted butter in which have been 
 mixed basil and bay leaf minced small ; 
 the yolks of two eggs, pepper and nut- 
 meg; rub the herrings well with this 
 bread, then broil them over a gentle fire, 
 serve with lemon juice ; the best red her- 
 rings are full of roe, are firm and large, 
 * and have a yellow cast ; of the fresh her- 
 rings the scales are bright ; if good, the 
 
 eye is full and 
 should be stiff. 
 
 the gill red; the fish 
 
 141. FEESH HEEEINGS BAKED. 
 "Wash the herrings in clear spring wa- 
 ter ; when they are thoroughly clean drain 
 them, and then, without wiping them, lay 
 them in a dish or baking pan ; pepper 
 and salt them ; chop finely two or three 
 onions, some parsley, thyme, and strew 
 
 They should be kept in the pickle, and 
 make a pleasant dish when cold. 
 
 142.-TO POT HEEEINGS. 
 
 Take from one to two dozen herrings, 
 according to the number you purpose 
 potting ; choose them as large, fine, and 
 fresh as you can. Take two ounces of 
 salt, one of saltpetre, two of allspice ; re- 
 duce them to an impalpable powder, and 
 rub them well into the herrings ; let 
 them remain with the spice upon them 
 eight hours to drain ; wipe off the spice 
 clean, and lay them in a pan on which 
 butter has been rubbed; season with 
 nutmeg, mace, white pepper, salt, and one 
 clove in powder, one ounce each, save the 
 last ; lay in two or three bay leaves, cov- 
 
 r with butter, and bake gently three 
 hours. 
 
 When cool, drain off the liquor, pack 
 the fish in the pots intended for their use, 
 cover to the depth of half an inch with 
 
 larified butter, sufficiently melted just 
 
 ;o run, but do not permit it to be hot ; 
 they will be ready for eating in two days. 
 
 143. POTTED HEEEING. 
 
 Take off the heads and tails ; clean the 
 fish and shake salt on them to draw out 
 the blood ; leave them one night, then 
 rub them with black pepper and allspice. 
 Pack them in a tin pan ; put slices of 
 onions and bay leaves between the layers, 
 and pour on vinegar enough to cover 
 them. Lay over them a sheet of butter- 
 ed paper, or a crust of oatmeal bread; 
 bake them till the bones are dissolved 
 A little mace, whole pepper, and butter 
 improve them. 
 
 144. TO STEW MACKEEEL (Now "Way.) 
 
 Take off the heads, the fins, the tails. 
 
 over them ; cover them with equal propor- 
 tions of vinegar and small beer ; tie them 
 over, and let them bake one hour in a 
 slow oven. 
 
 and, having opened the fish, and taken 
 out all the hard roes, dry them with a 
 cloth, and dredge them lightly with 
 flour ; place three or four of them in a 
 
194 
 
 THE PEACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 stewpan, with a lump of butter the size 
 of a walnut, to each fish;. put into a 
 small basin a teacupful of water, a table- 
 spoonful of finely chopped onions, the 
 same of chopped parsley, a blade or two 
 of mace, a little pepper and salt, a table- 
 spoonful of anchovy essence, and a small 
 teacupful of ale or porter (if not bitter). 
 Add a tablespoonful of grated bread-crust, 
 not burnt, but a light brown : pour all 
 these ingredients over the fish, and let 
 them stew gently for twenty minutes ; 
 have ready the yolks of three eggs, well 
 beaten, and when the fish is sufficiently 
 done, take some of the gravy and mix 
 gradually with the eggs, and, pouring 
 them on the fish, shake the stewpan a 
 little over the fire to thicken the whole, 
 but not to curdle the eggs ; the soft roes 
 added are an improvement : have ready 
 more grated crust, and having placed the 
 fish whole in the dish, shake a little of 
 the grated crust over the whole, so as to 
 make it of a handsome brown. The re- 
 ceipt requires to be carefully followed. 
 If the gravy is too thick, more water 
 may be added ; also a glass of sherry, if 
 liked. 
 
 146. MACKEEEL 
 
 Are generally served up plain boiled ; 
 put them in a kettle containing enough 
 boiling water according to the number, 
 well salted ; let simmer nearly half an 
 hour, take them up, drain, and dish them 
 upon a napkin ; serve melted butter in a 
 boat, with which you have mixed a table- 
 spoonful of chopped fennel, boiling it a 
 few minutes. 
 
 146. MACKEREL. 
 
 Cleanse the fish thoroughly inside and 
 out, remove the roe carefully, steep it in 
 vinegar and water, and replace it ; place 
 the fish in water from which the chill 
 has been taken, and boil very slowly, 
 from fifteen to twenty minutes ; the best 
 criterion is to be found in the starting of 
 
 the eyes and splitting of the tail, when 
 that takes place the fish is done ; take it 
 out of the water instantly, or you will 
 not preserve it whole. Garnish with 
 fennel or parsley, and serve up as sauce, 
 either, chopped fine in melted butter. 
 Gooseberry sauce is occasionally sent to 
 table, but it does not suit every palate. 
 
 An English cook says : They should be 
 carefully cleaned both inside and out ; 
 then washed in vinegar and water, and 
 left to hang a little to dry before being 
 put into the fish-kettle. A handful of 
 salt should be put into the water, which 
 should be at firs-t cold, and only allowed 
 to boil gently from fifteen to twenty 
 minutes, though some prefer having the 
 water boiling hot. The fish should be 
 watched about that time, as " when the 
 eye starts and the tail splits they are 
 done, and should be immediately taken 
 up ; if left in the water they will break." 
 
 The most customary sauce is that of 
 fennel, which has partly superseded the 
 gooseberry ; but parsley and butter are 
 still in use. 
 
 To Broil. Split them down the back, 
 rub the inside with a little vinegar 
 sprinkled with pepper and salt, flour 
 them, broil on a quick fire, and serve 
 them up with melted butter, parsley, 
 fennel, or lemon sauce. Or, if intended 
 for breakfast, send up the fish plainly 
 Iroiled without condiments or sauce, and 
 merely rubbed, when done, with a bit of 
 butter. 
 
 147. TO EOAST SHAD (Sea-shore Eeceipt.) 
 Split your fish down the back after he 
 is cleansed and washed ; nail the halves 
 on shingles or shortboard ; stick them 
 erect in the sand round a large fire ; as 
 soon as they are well browned, serve on 
 whatever you have ; eat with cold butter, 
 black pepper, salt, and a good appetite. 
 (This is a delicious way of cooking this 
 fish.) 
 
FISH. 
 
 195 
 
 148. FOE PEESEEVING SHAD. 
 l 
 
 Place the shad, cleaned and washed, 
 on a layer of salt in the bottom of the 
 vessel, alternating the layers of shad and 
 salt ; the salt covering the top ones. 
 Leave them twenty-four hours; then 
 take them out and wipe them dry. For 
 fifty shad, make a pickle of quarter of a 
 pound of saltpetre and a pound of brown 
 sugar mixed with salt enough to cure the 
 fish ; put the shad in alternate layers 
 with this dry preparation ; and put them 
 away. When a shad is taken out to 
 cook, it should be soaked a few hours 
 before broiling. 
 
 149. TO BEOIL A SHAD. 
 
 Shad should be well washed and dried. 
 It may be cut in half and broiled, or you 
 may split it open and lay a small quan- 
 tity of salt over it, and lay it upon a grid- 
 iron well buttered. It will broil in 
 about twenty minutes, and should be 
 thoroughly done. Melted butter may 
 be served in a sauce-boat with it. Shad 
 is even more palatable when baked than 
 broiled. To lake Shad it should be stuff- 
 ed with mashed potatoes and chopped 
 parsley. Lay it in the oven on a pan 
 which is well covered with butter 
 chopped in pieces ; baste the fish with 
 the butter and add fresh quantities as 
 fast as it is absorbed. Half or three- 
 quarters of a pound of butter should be 
 used for large-sized shad. 
 
 150. TO EOAST PIKE (Soycr.) 
 This fish, in France, is found daily on 
 .the tables of the fish epicures. It is 
 usually baked, when dressed plain. 
 Having cleaned the fish, stuff it, and sew 
 the belly up; butter -a saucepan, (a shal- 
 low frying-pan,) put the fish into it, and 
 place it in the oven for an?' hour or more, 
 according to the size ; when done, dish 
 it without a napkin, and pour anchovy 
 sauce round it. The fish, before baking, 
 
 should be trussed with its tail in its 
 mouth, and have four incisions cut in 
 each side, and well buttered over. 
 
 151. FISH CAKES. 
 
 Cold boiled fresh fish, or salt codfish 
 is nice minced fine, with potatoes, moist> 
 ened with a little water, and a little 
 butter put in, done up into cakes of the 
 size of common biscuit, and fried brown 
 
 in pork-fat or butter. 
 
 
 
 152. TO COOK CAEP. 
 
 Scour a fresh caught carp, and rub 
 clean with salt and water ; but scale him 
 not; open him, and put him. with his 
 blood and liver into a small pot; take a 
 handful of sweet marjoram, thyme, or 
 parsley, a sprig of rosemary and another 
 of savory. Bind them in small bundles, 
 and add them to the carp, with four or 
 five whole onions, twenty pickled oysters, 
 and three anchovies. Pour on claret 
 wine enough to cover the carp, seasoned 
 with salt, cloves, mace and lemon-peel. 
 Cover the pot, and set it on a quick fire. 
 When done, take out the carp, lay it 
 with the broth into a dish. Pour over 
 it a quarter of a pound of butter, melted 
 and beaten with six spoonfuls of the 
 broth, the yolks of two or three eggs, 
 and some of the herbs shred ; garnish 
 the dish with lemons, and serve up, and 
 much good to you. 
 
 153. TO COOK TEOUT. 
 (Frank Forrester's Method.) 
 
 This is the method of the woods, and 
 in the woods I learned it: The trout 
 must be cooked in the open air, by a 
 wood fire on the ground, or a charcoal 
 fire in a small Boston furnace. 
 
 Clean and scale your fish ; open, clean 
 and wash the inside ; for a pound fish 
 take two small -skewers of red cedar 
 wood ; upon each thread a piece of fat 
 salt pork half an inch square; with 
 
196 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 these fasten the belly of the fish asun- 
 der, annex him by the tail to a twig of 
 pliant wood, which suffer to bend over 
 the fire so as to bring the fish opposite 
 to the blaze ; place a large biscuit, or 
 a thin slice of dry toast, under the drip 
 of the gravy ; cook quickly. For a two 
 pound fish ten minutes will suffice j dish 
 with the biscuit under him, and eat with 
 salt and lemon-juice, or with shrimp or 
 lobster sauce ; or a dash of Worcester- 
 shire or Harvey sauce ; though I think 
 these bad taste. 
 
 154. TO DEESS PICKEEEL (Nobbs.) 
 
 Open and rub the fish within with salt 
 and claret wine ; save the milt and a little 
 of the bloody fat ; cut him in two or three 
 pieces, and put him into boiling water, 
 with sweet marjoram, savory, thyme, or 
 fennel, and a good handful of salt. Boil 
 nearly half an hour. For the sauce, take 
 butter, anchovies, horseradish, claret 
 wine, a little of the blood, shalot, or gar- 
 lic, and lemcn sliced ; beat all together, 
 and serve. 
 
 155. STEWED CAEP. 
 
 Three carps will make a dish; put 
 them in a baking-dish, cut up in thin 
 pieces a carrot, turnip, onion, celery, a 
 fagot of sweet herbs, a bay-leaf, a little 
 mace, six cloves, whole pepper, some 
 good second stock, six anchovies, half a 
 pint of port wine ; boil all this together, 
 pour it over the carp while hot, put but- 
 tered paper over them, do them in the 
 oven ; when done, strain off the stock 
 from the fish and thicken it, strain it 
 through a tammy, add a glass more port 
 wine, season it with sugar, lemon-juice, 
 cayenne pepper, and salt. 
 
 156. SOLES, FEIED. 
 
 Have about four pounds of lard or 
 clean fat in a small fish-kettle, which 
 place over a moderate fire ; cut off the 
 fins of the sole, and dip it into flour, 
 
 skake part of the flour off, have an egg 
 well beaten upon a plate, with which 
 brush the fish all over, and cover it with 
 fine bread-crumbs ; ascertain if the lard 
 is hot, by throwing in a few bread- 
 crumbs ; it will hiss if sufficiently hot ; 
 put in the fish, which will require nearly 
 ten minutes' cooking, and ought to be 
 perfectly crisp ; drain it on a cloth, dish 
 upon a napkin, garnish with parsley, and 
 serve with shrimp sauce in a boat. 
 
 The above quantity of lard or fat, if 
 carefully used and not burnt, would do 
 for several occasions, by straining it off 
 each time after using. All kinds of fish, 
 such as eels, smelts, whitings, flounders, 
 perch, gudgeons, &c., are fried precisely 
 in the same manner. Regulate the time 
 according to the size of your fish. 
 
 157. PIKE. 
 
 Clean and stuff the interior as directed 
 for haddocks, only adding some fillets of 
 anchovies, if handy, and chopped lemon- 
 peel with it ; curl round and put in a 
 baking-dish, spread a little butter all 
 over, put in a moderate oven; when 
 about half done egg over with a paste- 
 brush, and sprinkle bread-crumbs upon 
 it ; a middling-sized pike will take about 
 an hour, but that according to the size 
 and the heat of the oven ; when done, 
 dress upon a dish without a napkin, and 
 sauce round as directed for baked had- 
 dock. 
 
 158. TO FEY SMELTS. 
 
 Dry them slightly in a cloth, and dip 
 them in flour; then have half an ounce 
 of butter or clear fat melted in a basin, 
 into which break the yolk of two eggs, 
 with which rub the smelts over with a 
 brush, dip them in bread-crumbs, fry in 
 very hot lard, dress them on a napkin, 
 garnish with parsley, and serve with 
 shrimp sauce^n a boat. 
 
 159. BEOILED SMELTS. 
 
 When cleansed and wiped dry with a 
 
FISH. 
 
 197 
 
 cloth, dip them lightly into flour, and 
 put them upon a gridiron over a slow 
 fire, for five or six minutes, turning them 
 carefully when half done ; serve plain, 
 or with 3 little sauce. They are*much 
 relished by sick persons. I can highly 
 recommend any kind of white fish cook- 
 ed in this manner ; and it is well known 
 that nothing in the way of food is more 
 digestible than fish. 
 
 Wate souchet of flounders, soles, and 
 slips may also be served to invalids, by 
 proceeding the same as above. 
 
 160. STUEGEON CUTLETS. 
 
 Cut in slices one-quarter inch thick; 
 dry, flour, and egg them; dip them in 
 crumbs, seasoned with pepper, salt, pars- 
 ley, and thyme; fry them, and serve 
 with Indian pickle, tomato, or piquant 
 sauce. 
 
 161. TO STEW STUEGEON. 
 Cut the fish in slices one and a half 
 inch thick, dip them in vinegar, dry them 
 well, flour, and broil the slices; then 
 flour and lay th$m in a stewpan with 
 some good broth, and let them stew 
 gently until perfectly tender; thicken 
 the gravy with butter or cream, add a 
 spoonful of Harvey's sauce, one-half a 
 glass of wine, and serve it up with ca- 
 pers strewed over the top, and garnished 
 with slices of lemon. 
 
 162. ECONOMICAL MODE OP COOKING 
 STUEGEON. 
 
 Take a piece of sturgeon about two 
 pounds' weight, and on sending a piece of 
 meat to the baker's to be baked on a 
 stand in a dish, put the sturgeon under 
 it, with a little water, salt, pepper, &c., 
 and a little chopped eschalot may be 
 used ; you can also put potatoes round 
 it. Peas, if in season, are a good accom- 
 paniment, with melted butter. 
 13 
 
 163.-SHEIMP TOAST-CEOUTE AUX CEE- 
 VELLE3-(French.) 
 
 Boil five pints of shrimps, and as soon 
 as they are cold shell them ; take the 
 heads and bruise them in a mortar, put 
 them into barely a quart of water, and 
 let them boil an hour, strain them very 
 clear, and add three parts to half the 
 quantity of good veal stock. Put into 
 a stewpan a lump of butter the size of 
 an egg, and when it has commenced to 
 bubble, stir in one teaspoonful of flour, 
 a little grated nutmeg, a sprinkling of 
 cayenne, and a small quantity of mace, 
 the fourth of a teaspoonful ; when this 
 browns, pour in the stock gradually, add- 
 ing a glass of vin fie Bordeaux, and let 
 it boil, then add the shrimps, cut oif the 
 bottom crust of a French loaf, hollow 
 out the crumb, and fry the crust in fresh 
 butter until a golden brown ; as soon as 
 the shrimps are thoroughly heated, which 
 will be in about three or four minutes, 
 
 pour them into the hollowed toast. 
 
 I 
 
 164 SMELTS.-{English). 
 
 This is a very delicate fish, requires 
 delicate handling, and is quickly cooked ; 
 draw through the gills and wipe with a 
 soft cloth, but do not wash them ; dip 
 them into the yolk of an egg beaten very 
 smooth, and sprinkle them with bread- 
 crumbs as finely as they can be powder- 
 ed, a little flour may be mixed with the 
 bread-crumbs ; fry them a clear light 
 brown ; four minutes will suffice to cook 
 them. 
 
 The French method of serving is to 
 skewer six through the gills with a sil- 
 ver skewer, and serve them in sixes. If 
 dished, lay them head and tail alternate- 
 ly, serve with melted butter and garnish 
 with parsley. 
 
 165. TO BAKE SMELTS. 
 Prepare as above, and instead of 
 strewin'* forcemeat over them, employ 
 
198 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 only bread crumbs, and moisten with 
 clarified butter ; mix in addition to the 
 gravy a glass of Madeira, with a dash 
 of anchovies; this must be added be- 
 fore the smelts are laid in. They will 
 be done in ten minutes. 
 
 166. TROUT. 
 
 Scale, gut, clean, dry, and flour, fry 
 them in butter until they are a rich clear 
 brown, fry some green parsley crisp, and 
 make some plain melted butter, put in 
 one teaspoonful of essence of anchovy, 
 and one glass of white wine ; garnish 
 when the trout are dished with the crisp- 
 ed parsley and lemon cut in slices ; the 
 butter may be poured over the fish, but 
 it is most advisable to send it in a but- 
 ter tureen. 
 
 167. TO FEY TEOUT. 
 
 Scale, gut, and clean them ; take out 
 the gills ; egg and crumb them ; then fry 
 in lard or oil until of a light brown. 
 Serve with anchovy-sauce and sliced 
 lemon. 
 
 188. IN THE FOREIGN MODE. 
 
 Cover the bottom of a small oval pa- 
 per form with a few very thin slices of 
 fat bacon ; cut down the back some nice- 
 ly-washed small trout, and, having re- 
 moved the bones, lay the fish open, flat 
 upon the- bacon ; sprinkle with chopped 
 parsley, pepper, salt, a little mace, and 
 two cloves finely pounded. Bake one- 
 half hour in a quick oven, and serve in 
 paper. 
 
 169 TRUITE A LA GENEVOISE. 
 
 Clean the fish as above, lay them in a 
 Btewpan with two glasses of champagne, 
 two glasses of sherry, a fagot of parsley, 
 an onion stuck with cloves, thyme, pep- 
 per, and salt, and a piece of the well 
 baked crust of French bread ; stew on a 
 
 quick fire, take out the bread when the 
 fish is done, brown it, mix in butter roll- 
 ed in flour, and boil up to thicken the 
 sauce ; the fish having been taken out 
 when done, pour over them the thicken- 
 ed sauce, serve with lemon sliced and 
 fried bread. 
 
 170. TllUITE 1 LA PEINCESSE EOYALE. 
 
 Take equal parts of Madeira and 
 water, and let them come to a boil, having 
 emptied, cleansed, washed, and wiped per- 
 fectly dry the trout ; lay them in ; they 
 should only be just covered with the li- 
 quor, and will be done in twenty minutes 
 if not boiled too fast ; take out the fish 
 and thicken with a piece of butter rolled in 
 flour ; add two well beaten eggs with one 
 teaspoonful of cream to the sauce, pour- 
 ing them from one vessel to another un- 
 til they" are of a creamy consistency ; 
 season with salt, pour the sauce upon 
 the fish, and serve. 
 
 171. TEOUT 1 LA TWICKENHAM. 
 
 When you have cleaned your trout, 
 put them into a kettle of boiling water, 
 to which you have added a good handful 
 of salt, and a wine-glassful of vinegar; 
 boil gently abojit twenty minutes, or ac- 
 cording to their size ; dress upon a nap- 
 kin, and serve melted butter, into which 
 you have put a table-spoonful of chopped 
 gherkins, two sprigs of chopped parsley, 
 salt and pepper, in a boat. 
 
 The remains of trout, salmon, or mack- 
 erel, are excellent pickled: put three 
 onions in slices in a stewpan, with two 
 ounces of butter, one turnip, a bouquet 
 of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, pass 
 them five minutes over the fire, add a 
 pint of water and a pint of vinegar, two 
 teaspoonfuls of salt and one of pepper; 
 boil until the onions are tender, then 
 strain it through a sieve over the fish ; 
 it will keep some time if required, and 
 
FISH. 
 
 199 
 
 then do to pickle more fish by boiling 
 aver again. 
 
 1T2. -TROUT STEWED. 
 
 This is a pleasing and delicate fish 
 when nicely stewed. It is dressed very 
 much in the fashion of other small fish 
 stewed, only that it requires perhaps 
 more care in the different processes. 
 
 First wash and clean the fish, wipe it 
 perfectly dry; put into a stewpan two 
 ounces of butter, dredge in as it melts, 
 flour, and add grated nutmeg, a little 
 mace, and a little cayenne. Stew well, 
 and when fluid and thoroughly mixed, 
 lay in the fish, which, having suffered to 
 slightly brown, cover with a pint of veal 
 gravy; throw in a little salt, a small 
 fagot of parsley, a few rings of lemon- 
 peel ; stew slowly forty minutes ; take 
 out the fish, strain the gravy clear and 
 pour it over the fish ; it may be strained 
 over it ; before however, it is poured over ; 
 a glass of bucellas may be added to the 
 gravy. 
 
 173. TUEBOT. 
 
 Place the turbot, previously to cook- 
 ing, to soak in salt and water in which a 
 little vinegar has been poured; lay it 
 upon its back in the fish-kettle, fill the 
 latter three parts full with cold water, 
 throw in a handful of salt, a gill of vine- 
 gar, let it boil very gradually, and when 
 it boils, add cold water to check ; thirty 
 minutes are sufficient to cook it ; serve it 
 upon a cloth as boiled with its back to 
 the dish ; garnish tastefully with sprigs 
 of parsley, and horseradish scraped into 
 curls, or with fried smelts, or barberries 
 and parsley. Lobster sauce. 
 
 174.-TUEBOT A LA CREME 
 
 Is made from the remains of a turbol 
 left from a previous dinner : pick all the 
 flesh from the bones, which warm in salt 
 and water, and have ready the following 
 sauce : put one ounce of flour into a stew- 
 
 pan, to which add by degrees a quart of 
 milk, mixing it very smoothly; then 
 add two peeled eschalots, a bouquet of 
 parsley, a bay-leaf and a sprig of thyme 
 tied together ; add a little grated nutmeg, 
 a teaspoonful of salt and a quarter ditto 
 of pepper ; place it over the fire, stirring 
 until it forms a thickish sauce; then 
 take it from the fire, stir in a quarter of 
 a pound of fresh butter, and pass it 
 through a tammy; lay a little of it upon 
 the bottom of a convenient-sized dish, 
 then a layer of the fish ; season lightly 
 with a little white pepper and salt, then 
 another layer of sauce, proceeding thus 
 until the fish is all used, finishing with 
 sauce ; sprinkle a few bread-crumbs over, 
 and put it into a warm oven half an hour ; 
 brown with the salamander, and serve 
 upon the dish it is baked on. Any re- 
 mains of boiled fish may be dressed the 
 same way. 
 
 175. CRIMPED SALMON 1 LA CREME. 
 The salmon, like cod, must be quite 
 fresh or it will not crimp. Cut the body 
 into slices about two inches thick ; have 
 ready some salt and water in the propor- 
 tion of three ounces of salt to a quart of 
 water, with the smallest knob of salt- 
 petre about the size of a nut ; dip the sal- 
 mon slices into this as they are cut, hold 
 them for half a minute, and then rinse 
 them in clear cold spring water, and lay 
 them upon a dish ; put a lump of butter 
 well rubbed in flour into a stewpan ; while 
 the butter is melting sprinkle in a little 
 salt and cayenne, and when the butter is 
 on the simmer stir in half a pint of cream, 
 keep stirring, and as it boils squeeze in 
 the juice of a quarter of a lemon, and stir 
 in a large teaspoonful of essence of an- 
 chovies ; add a little more salt to taste. 
 
 Having boiled the crimped salmon slices 
 in quick boiling water ten minutes, take 
 them out and let them drain one minute, 
 put them in a clean stewpan, and pour 
 
200 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 over the prepared cream and let it sim- 
 mer ten minutes ; it should not if possible 
 be suffered to boil. 
 
 The lemon juice is sometimes deferred 
 until the fish is removed from the cream, 
 a minute's simmer is allowed, and it is 
 then all poured over the salmon and sent 
 very hot to table. 
 
 176. TO BOIL SALMON. 
 
 (Frank Forrester's own receipt.) 
 
 If you are ever so lucky as to catch a 
 salmon, where incontinently you can pro- 
 ceed to cook him that is to say, in the 
 wilderness, within ten yards of the door 
 of your own shantee, with the fire burn- 
 ing and the pot boiling good. 
 
 Stun him by a heavy blow on the head ; 
 crimp him by a succession of cuts on each 
 side, through the muscle, quite down to 
 the back-bone, with a very sharp knife, 
 in slashes parallel to the gill cover. 
 Then place him for ten minutes in a cold 
 spring, or under the jet of a waterfall. 
 Meanwhile, keep your pot boiling, nay, 
 screeching with intense heat, filled with 
 brine strong enough to bear an egg. 
 Therein immerse him, having cujt out the 
 gills, open the belly, and wash the inside ; 
 boil him at the rate of seven minutes and 
 a half to the pound ; dish him, and serv- 
 ing him with no sauce, save a tureenful 
 of the water in which he has been boiled, 
 proceed to eat him. with no other condi- 
 ments than a little salt and the slightest 
 squeeze of a lemon. I do not object to 
 cucumber sliced very fine, with a dressing 
 of oil, three tablespoonfuls to one of vine- 
 gar, salt and black pepper to taste ; but 
 I regard green peas, or any vegetable, 
 with this grand fish, as a Cockney abomi- 
 nation. 
 
 ITT.-SOYEK'S KECEIPT-SALMON AU 
 NATUEEL. 
 
 Clean and prepare as before ; but if he 
 be not fresh enough to crimp, scale him 
 and proceed as follows : 
 
 Put your fish in cold water, using a 
 pound of salt to every six quarts ; let it 
 be well covered, and set it over a moder- 
 ate fire; when it begins to simmer, set it 
 on one side the fire. If the fish weigh 
 four pounds, let it simmer half an hour ; 
 if eight, three-quarters, and so on in pro- 
 portion ; dish it on a napkin, and serve 
 lobster or shrimp sauce in a bowl. 
 
 178. TO BOIL SALMON. 
 Salmon is dressed in various ways, but 
 chiefly boiled in large pieces of a few 
 pounds' weight. The middle piece is 
 considered, if not the richest, yet the 
 most sightly; then that adjoining the 
 jowl; the tail part, though nearly as 
 good, being usually kept for steaks. It 
 requires great attention, and the boiling 
 must be checked more than once ; a piece 
 of four to five pounds, will take nearly 
 an hour, but if double that weight will 
 not require more than twenty minutes 
 beyond that time, and if crimped, still 
 less will be sufficient : let it, however, 
 boil slowly, in the hardest water, on a 
 strainer placed in a large fish-kettle, and 
 be thoroughly done, for nothing is more 
 disgusting than fish that is under- cooked ; 
 skim it well, or the color will be bad ; 
 the moment it is ready, lift up the strain- 
 er and rest it across the kettle, that the 
 fish may drain ; cover it with a thick 
 cloth. 
 
 179. TO BAKE SALMON. 
 Scale it, and take out the bone from 
 the part to be dressed, but fill up the 
 cavity with forcemeat, and bind the 
 piece with tape. Then fiour it, ub it with 
 yolk of egg, and put it into a deep baking- 
 dish, covering it very thickly with crumbs 
 of bread, chopped parsley, and sweet herbs, 
 together with shrimps, if they can be got, 
 and put into the covering a few small 
 bits of fresh butter; place it in a Dutch 
 oven, or, if already boiled and thus re- 
 
FISH. 
 
 201 
 
 dressed, heat it only before the fire until 
 browned. 
 
 180. SALMON, PLAIN BOILED (Soyer.) 
 I prefer always dressing this fish in 
 slices from an inch to two inches in thick- 
 ness, boiling it in plenty of salt and water 
 about twenty minutes; the whole fish 
 may be boiled, or the head and shoulders 
 of a large fish, but they require longer 
 boiling. Salmon eats firmer by not 
 being put into the water until boiling. 
 Dress the fish upon a napkin, and serve 
 with lobster sauce, shrimp ditto, or 
 plain melted butter in a boat with 
 fresh sprigs of parsley boiled a few 
 minutes in it. A salmon weighing about 
 ten pounds will require an hour's gentle 
 boiling ; a head and shoulders weighing 
 six pounds, half an hour ; the remains 
 may be dressed a la cre'me, as directed 
 for turbot. 
 
 181. SALMON TO BOIL. 
 This fish cannot be too soon cooked 
 after being caught ; it should be put into 
 a kettle with plenty of cold water, and a 
 handful of salt ; the addition of a small 
 quantity of vinegar will add to the firm- 
 ness of the fish; let it boil gently; if 
 four pounds of salmon, fifty minutes will 
 suffice; if thick, a few minutes more 
 may be allowed. The best criterion for 
 ascertaining whether it be done, is to 
 pass a knife between the bone and the 
 fish ; if it separates readily, it is done ; 
 this should be tried in the thickest part ; 
 when cooked lay it on the fish strainer 
 transversely across the kettle, so that 
 the fish while draining may be kept hot. 
 Place a fish plate upon the dish on which 
 the salmon is to be served ; fold a clean 
 white napkin, lay it upon the fish plate, 
 and place the salmon upon the napkin. 
 Garnish with parsley. 
 
 Sp 
 
 182. BEOILED SALMON. 
 Dip each piece in flour, put it on a grid- 
 iron, turn occasionally; fifteen minutes 
 
 will give it a nice pale yellow color ; it 
 should be served with Dutch, or caper 
 sauce. 
 
 188.-SALMON BEOILED. 
 
 Cut the fish in slices from the best 
 part, each slice should be an inch thick ; 
 season well with pepper and salt ; wrap 
 each slice in white paper, which has been 
 buttered wih fresh butter ; fasten each 
 end by twisting or tying ; broil over a 
 very clear fire eight minutes. A coke 
 fire, if kept clear and bright is best. Serve 
 with butter, anchovy, or tomato sauce. 
 
 184. DRIED SALMON BEOILED. 
 
 Cut and cook as above, save that when 
 it is warmed through, it is enough. Serve 
 plain for breakfast, or with egg sauce if 
 for dinner. 
 
 185. TO DET SALMON. 
 Cut the fish down, take out the inside 
 and roe, rub the whole with common salt 
 after scaling it ; let it hang twenty-four 
 hours to drain. Pound three or four 
 ounces of saltpetre, according to the size 
 of the fish, two ounces of bay salt, and 
 two ounces of coarse sugar ; rub these, 
 when mixed well, into the salmon, and 
 lay it in a large dish or tray two days ; 
 then rub it well with common salt, and 
 in twenty-four hours more it will be fit 
 to dry; wipe it well after draining. Hang 
 it either in a wood chimney or in a dry 
 place, keeping it open with two small 
 sticks. Dried salmon is eaten broiled in 
 paper, and only just warmed through, 
 egg-sauce and mashed potatoes with it ; 
 or it may be boiled, especially the part 
 next the head. 
 
 186. TO PICKLE SALMON. -The Newcastle 
 Method. 
 
 Put any quantity of salmon into an 
 earthen jar ; cover it with equal parts of 
 good vinegar and water; add cayenne 
 pepper and salt in proportion to the fish, 
 and bake if in a moderate oven. This 
 
202 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 pickle will keep a long time, with the ad- 
 dition of a little fresh vinegar ; and if 
 mace or oloves be added, with a few bay- 
 leaves laid in the mouth of the jar, it will 
 be found an improvement. Trout may 
 be preserved the same way. Fish thus 
 pickled, must not be washed previously, 
 but rubbed with a dry cloth. 
 
 Though generally eaten cold, yet in 
 Newcastle it is not unfrequently warmed 
 up in its pickle-liquor. 
 
 18T.-SALMON TO PICKLE UNDKESSED. 
 
 Scale the fish, rub well with a cloth, 
 and scrape away all the blood about the 
 backbone, but do not wash it ; cut off the 
 head, and divide the fish into pieces about 
 six inches long ; then boil the pieces in a 
 pickle made of equal parts of vinegar and 
 water, with a few cloves and two or 
 three blades of mace until done. Skim 
 carefully all the time the fish is boiling, 
 and when done remove the fish and pour 
 the liquor into a jar or tub. so that both 
 may become cold; when cold, put the 
 fish into the liquor, with one-third more 
 vinegar, and some whole pepper. 
 
 188. SALMON POTTED. 
 
 Cut a handsome piece from the middle 
 of the salmon; remove the scales, and 
 wipe it with a clean cloth. Rub into it 
 some common salt thoroughly. 
 
 Beat up some mace, cloves, and whole 
 pepper ; season the salmon with it ; place 
 it in a pan with a few bay leaves ; cover 
 it with butter, and bake it until thorough- 
 ly done ; remove it from the gravy, let- 
 ting it drain thoroughly, then place it in 
 the pots. Clarify sufficient butter to 
 cover all the pots after the salmon has 
 been put into them ; put it to cool. 
 
 189.-TO PICKLE SALMON. 
 
 Scale, clean, split, and divide into hand- 
 some pieces the salmon ; place them in 
 
 the bottom of a stewpan, with just suffi- 
 cient water to cover them. 
 
 Put into three quarts of water one pint 
 of vinegar, a dozen bay leaves, half that 
 quantity of mace, a handful of salt, and 
 a fourth part of an ounce of black pepper. 
 
 When the salmon is sufficiently boiled 
 remove it, drain it, place it upon a cloth. 
 Put in the kettle another layer of salmon ;> 
 pour over it the liquor which you have 
 prepared, and keep it until the salmon is 
 done. Then remove the fish, place it in 
 a deep dish or pan, cover it with the pic- 
 kle, which, if not sufficiently acid, may 
 receive more vinegar and salt, and be 
 boiled forty minutes. Let the air be 
 kept from the fish, and, if kept for any 
 length of time it will be found necessary 
 to occasionally drain the liquor from the 
 fish ; skim, and boil it. 
 
 190. COLLAKED SALMON. 
 Cut off the head and shoulders, and 
 the thinnest part of the tail, thus leaving 
 the primest part of the salmon to be col- 
 lared. Split it, and having washed and 
 wiped it well, make a compound of cay- 
 enne pepper, white pepper, a little salt, 
 and some pounded mace. Rub the fish 
 well with this mixture inside and out ; 
 roll and bandage with broad tape ; lay 
 it in a saucepan ; cover it with water and 
 vinegar, one part of the latter to two of 
 the former ; add a table-spoonful of pep- 
 per, black and white whole, two bay 
 leaves, and some salt. Keep the lid 
 closed down. Simmer until enough, 
 strain off the liquor ; let it cool ; pour 
 over the fish when cold, garnish with 
 fennel. 
 
 191.-COLLAEED EELS. 
 
 The eels destined to be dressed as 
 above should be the finest which can be 
 selected : the sjdn must not be removed, 
 but the bone must be carefully and cle- 
 verly extracted. Spread out the fish, 
 
FISH. 
 
 203 
 
 and with some finely chopped sage, pars- 
 ley, and mixed spices, rub the fish well 
 over ; then take some broad white tape, 
 bind up the fish tightly ; throw a good 
 handful of salt into the water in which 
 it is to be boiled, and a couple of bay 
 leaves. Boil three-quarters of an hour, 
 and if the fish be taken out and hung to 
 dry for twelve hours, it will be the better 
 for it when served. Add to the water 
 in which the fish has been boiled a pint 
 of vinegar, a little whole pepper, some 
 knotted marjoram or thyme. This pickle 
 also should, after boiling about twelve 
 minutes, be suffered to stand as long as 
 the eels are recommended to be hung ; 
 previous to serving, the fish must be un- 
 rolled so as to abrase the skin as little as 
 possible, and put them into the pickle. 
 Send up in slices or whole, according to 
 taste ; garnish with parsley. 
 
 192. EELS BEEAD CEUMBED. 
 
 Cut into pieces same length as above, 
 cleaned nicely and well dried ; let them 
 be coated with yolk of egg, powdered 
 with bread crumbs ; fry them brown ; 
 serve with parsley and butter. Garnish 
 with handsome sprigs of parsley. 
 
 193. SPITCHCOCKED EELS. 
 There are several ways to spitchcock 
 eels. They are either broiled or stewed. 
 To broil them, see that the gridiron is 
 cleansed and rubbed with suet, to prevent 
 the adhesion of the skin of the fish, 
 which must be suffered to remain on; 
 cut the eels, which should be large, into 
 lengths of six or seven inches, not less, 
 and coat them well with yolk of egg. 
 Pound in a mortar, parsley, nutmeg, mace, 
 cloves, and pepper ; this should be rubbed 
 over the fish, and they should be broiled 
 a clear brown ; serve with melted butter, 
 fish sauce, according to palate. 
 
 194 EELS FKIED. 
 
 Cut your eels into pieces three inches 
 
 long, trim them, dip the pieces into flour, 
 egg over with a paste-brush, and throw 
 them into some bread-crumbs ; fry in 
 hot lard as directed for fried soles. 
 
 195. EELS 1 LA TAETAEE. 
 
 Fry as directed above, and serve on 
 some Tartare sauce ; or partly stew first, 
 and, when cold, egg, bread-crumb, and 
 broil gently. This last I much prefer. 
 
 196. STEWED EELS. 
 
 Procure as large eels as possible, which 
 cut into pieces three inches long, and put 
 them into a stewpan, with an onion, a 
 bouquet of two bay-leaves, a sprig of 
 thyme and parsley, six cloves, a blade of 
 mace, a glass of sherry, and two of water ; 
 place the stewpan over a moderate fire, 
 and let simmer about twenty minutes, 
 or according to the size of the eels ; when 
 done, drain upon a cloth, dress them in 
 pyramid upon a dish without a napkin, 
 with a matelote sauce over, made as 
 directed for salmon sauce matelote, but 
 using the stock your eels have been cook- 
 ed in to make the sauce, having previous- 
 ly well boiled it to extract all the fat 
 
 197. EEL PIE. 
 
 Take six skinned eels, remove tho 
 heads, and cut them into pieces four 
 inches lojig ; add two dozen oysters, boil 
 them together in a very little water ; 
 take out the oysters, and bone the eels 
 by passing them through a sieve. 
 
 Take six hard boiled eggs, parsley, 
 fried herbs, lemon-peel, black pepper, 
 salt, mace, nutmeg, and allspice; the 
 whole ground very fine; add these to 
 the eels and oysters with the broth and a 
 bit of fresh butter. ^ 
 
 Take a large, deep dish, of yellow 
 earthen ware ; put the mass into it, and 
 cover the dish with a fine pastry crust 
 Bake it in a very hot oven from half an 
 hour to three-quarters according to the 
 heat. 
 
204: 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 198. SHELL FISH. 
 
 Although crabs and lobsters may be 
 bought the whole year round, they are 
 yet only in high season, from the month 
 of July till the close of October. They 
 should be always purchased alive. 
 
 If lobsters have not been long taken, 
 the claws will have a strong motion when 
 you put j^our finger on the eyes and 
 press them. The heaviest, if of good 
 size, are the best, but the largest are not 
 the best. When you buy them ready 
 boiled, try whether their tails are stiff, 
 and pull up with a spring ; if otherwise, 
 they are either watery or not fresh. The 
 <c cock-lobster," as the male is called, is 
 known by the narrow back part of his 
 tail, and the two uppermost fins within it 
 are stiff and hard ; but those of the hen 
 are soft, and the tail broader. The male, 
 though generally smaller, has the highest 
 flavor ; the flesh is firmer, and the color, 
 when boiled, is a deeper red ; but the fe- 
 male has that fine coral so highly prized 
 by cooks for the improvement of their 
 sauces, which appears with the rudiments 
 .of the spawn. 
 
 199. TO BOIL LOBSTERS. 
 
 Put them alive, with their claws tied 
 together, into the water when boiling 
 hot, and keep it so un.til the fisli' is done, 
 which, if of a pound weight, will take 
 about a quarter of an hour, and if larger 
 will require not quite the same propor- 
 tion of time, for if boiled too long the 
 meat will be stringy. Many people are 
 shocked at the apparent cruelty of thus 
 killing them, but death takes place im- 
 mediately, and life cannot be taken away 
 without pain. * 
 
 When sent to table to be eaten cold, 
 the tail and body should be split from 
 'end to end, the claws cracked, but not 
 unshelled, and the meat may be made 
 into salad, or mixed in such manner as 
 
 each person pleases, and many persons add 
 a teaspoonful of white pondered sugar, 
 thinking that it gives a mellowness to 
 the whole. It is scarcely necessary to 
 mention that the head of a lobster, and 
 what are called the " lady-fingers," are 
 not to be eaten". 
 
 Lobster as served. 
 200. TO STEW LOBSTERS. 
 
 Pick the meat out of the shell, put it 
 into a stewpan with half a pint of good 
 gravy and a glass of claret ; add an onion 
 minced fine, some sweet herbs, and pep- 
 per and salt, stew till tender ; add a large 
 spoonful of mushroom ketchup 3 one of 
 essence of anchovy, and a lump of butter 
 rolled in flour. Serve hot, and garnish 
 with bread sippets. If brought on cold 
 as a supper dish, serve in a shape cover- 
 ed with clear jelly. 
 
 201. BOILING* LOBSTERS. 
 
 Put the lobsters into boiling water, 
 with a little salt, and boil them till they 
 are cooked through ; the color of the 
 shell is of importance, and is made bright 
 by rubbing the shell with sweet oil after 
 it is wiped. Split the body and tail 
 through, and crack the claws. It is then 
 fit to go to the table, where it must be 
 cut up fine before eating. A dressing, 
 made of salt, mustard, oil, cayenne pep- 
 per and vinegar, mixed with the yolk of 
 an egg, is usually prepared for it. The 
 white of an egg (boiled hard, of course,) 
 may be minced fine and strewn over it. 
 
SHELL-FISH. 
 
 205 
 
 202. LOBSTER CURRIED. 
 
 Take the meat of a fine lobster, or 
 two, if they should be small, place in a 
 stewpan two dessert-spoonfuls of curry 
 powder, add of butter two ounces, an 
 onion cut in very fine strips, and three 
 large spoonfuls of fish stock. When 
 they are stewed well, add the lobster, 
 simmer gently for an hour, squeeze in 
 half a lemon, season with a little salt. 
 In the 'eastern method the expressed 
 luice of spinach is usually added. This 
 is obtained by simply putting spinach, 
 without any water, into a saucepan, and 
 when done enough, press out the juice, 
 and add it with butter, cayenne, and salt, 
 to the gravy. Prawns may be dressed 
 in this fashionf 
 
 203. CROQUETTES OF LOBSTER. 
 Take the meat from the shell, chop it 
 finely, mix it with a little salt, pepper, 
 and pounded mace ; take one-fourth part 
 of fine bread crumbs, make it up into 
 balls with melted butter, brush the balls 
 with yolk of egg, and dredge them with 
 bread crumbs^ and fry them, serving with 
 or without gravy : if dry, they must be 
 sent up with crisped parsley. 
 
 204. GRATIN OF LOBSTER. 
 
 Take out all the meat from a large lob- 
 ster, then wash the body, tail, and shells 
 if the lobster is first cut in halves down 
 the back ; then dry and butter them, and 
 sprinkle them with bread crumbs, chop 
 up the meat fine, with a little parsley 
 and shalot, a few drops of essence of an- 
 chovies, a spoonful of vinegar, cayenne 
 pepper and salt, a little bechamel sauce, 
 and boil all well together ; then add a 
 yolk of egg, put it to cool, then fill your 
 shells or paper cases, cover it with bread 
 crumbs and some pieces of butter, brown 
 them in the oven, and dish on a napkin. 
 
 205. LOBSTER SALAD. 
 
 Extract the fish from the shell, place 
 it in the centre of the dish in which it is 
 to be served, in the form of a pyramid ; 
 arrange the salad round tastefully, and 
 add salad mixture. This dish is not in- 
 frequently garnished with the smallest 
 claws of the fish. This is a matter of 
 fancy or it may be formed into a heap, 
 ornamented with the claws of several 
 lobsters. The first row is formed of cut 
 cucumbers, the second of eggs boiled 
 hard, and each egg split into four pieces, 
 and the points laid round the salad ; the 
 third and bottom row is composed of 
 slices of beet-root and lobster. 
 
 206. LOBSTERS, IN AN ITALIAN SALAD. 
 
 Take two lobsters, cut them into pieces 
 by taking off the claws and tail, each of 
 which split in two ; the spawn rub 
 through a dry sieve to garnish the salad, 
 made in the following manner : wash two 
 or three cabbage lettuces, cut them in 
 large shreds, slice a beet-root and cucum- 
 ber, wash, pick, and cut into long shreds 
 four anchovies, chop some tan-agon and 
 chervil, two boiled eggs, the yolks and 
 whites chopped separately ; if you have 
 any cauliflowers or French beans, boil 
 and put them with the other things to 
 garnish. Having every thing prepared, 
 place the lettuce in the centre of the 
 dish in a heap, and place the lobsters and 
 other things according to your taste, and 
 just before you serve garnish with Ital- 
 ian salad sauce. 
 
 207. -LOBSTER SALAD.-<Soyer's.) 
 
 Dress a border of hard-boiled eggs, as 
 directed in salad of game, fill the centre 
 with some nice fresh salad, then take the 
 flesh from a middling- sized lobster, which 
 cut into as large slices as possible, which 
 put into a basin, and season with a little 
 pepper, salt, oil, and vinegar, after which 
 dress them pyramidically upon the salad 
 
206 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 and have ready the following sauce : put 
 the yolks of two fresh eggs in a basin, 
 with the yolk of a hard-boiled one rub- 
 bed through a sieve ; add half a saltspoou- 
 ful of salt, and half that quantity of 
 white pepper, and commence stirring 
 round with a wooden spoon with the 
 right hand, holding a bottle of salad oil 
 in the left, dropping it in by degrees 
 and continually stirring ; when becoming 
 thickish add a couple of spoonfuls of 
 common vinegar by degrees, still keep- 
 ing it stirred, then more oil, proceeding 
 thus until you have used three parts of 
 a pint of oil, and a corresponding quan- 
 tity of vinegar ; by continually working 
 it will form a stiffish cream-looking sauce 
 perfectly smooth ; add a little more sea- 
 soning if required, and a teaspoonful of 
 chopped parsley, with half that quantity 
 of chopped eschalots ; pour over the lob- 
 ster and serve. Should the sauce curdle 
 in making, the operation must be again 
 performed, putting a yolk of an egg into 
 another basin, working it with a little 
 oil until forming a stiffish paste, then 
 stir in the curdled sauce by degrees un- 
 til the whole becomes smooth ; always 
 choose a cool place to make it in. This 
 requires a little practice. 
 
 208. ANCHOVIES, ESSENCE OF. 
 A pound of the best anchovies, two 
 quarts of water, two bay-leaves, some 
 whole pepper, a little scraped horse- 
 radish, a little thyme, two blades of 
 mace, six shalots chopped small, a gill of 
 port wine, half the rind of a lemon, a 
 gill of ketchup ; boil them together for 
 twenty minutes, then rub them through 
 a tammy with a wooden spoon ; when 
 cold put it into pint bottles, cork them 
 close, and keep them in a dry place. 
 
 209. TOAST OF ANCHOVIES. 
 
 Prepare toast; fillet some anchovies, 
 
 pound them in a mortar, add a little but- 
 ter well pomnded into it, a little cayenne 
 pepper, a few drops of lemon-juice ; take 
 it out and spread it on the toast. 
 
 210. ANCHOVIES WITH FEIED BEEAD. 
 
 Cut some bread thin, then cut out with 
 a plain paste cutter the quantity you 
 require, as you will put one on the other ; 
 fry them in lard a very nice brown, then 
 fillet and pound anchovies as before ; 
 add a little parsley, and a grain of shalot, 
 rub all through a fine wire or hair sieve, 
 spread one of your toasts rather thick, 
 place another piece of bread on the top ; 
 have ready some more filleted ancho- 
 vies, and garnish each toast, using 
 pickles likewise, or parsley. 
 
 211. TO KNOW GOOD ANCHOVIES. 
 
 The best look red and mellow, and the 
 bones moist and oily, the flesh high fla- 
 vored, and a fine smell ; if the liquor and 
 fish become dry, add to it a little beef 
 brine. 
 
 212. CHOWDEE-A SAILOE'S DISH. 
 Cut salmon, halibut, or any rich 
 fish, into steaks an inch thick ; season 
 them highly with pepper, salt, and cay- 
 enne; put a layer of sliced potatoes 
 (raw) in the bottom of the stewpan ; 
 then a layer of broken cabin-biscuit; 
 next the fish ; then a layer of thin sliced 
 ham. Fill the stewpan in this manner ; 
 finish with a large piece of butter. Add 
 water enough to moisten the whole; 
 stew slowly two hours, never stirring, 
 but occasionally shaking the pan to pre- 
 vent it burning to the bottom. If it 
 gets too dry, add a little more water. 
 
 213.-CEAB, 
 
 Though not so well-known as the lob- 
 ster, is looked upon by many as being 
 a better-flavored fish, and perhaps rather 
 
SHELL-FISH. 
 
 20T 
 
 more digestible. The female is consider- 
 ed inferior to the male, and maj be known 
 by the claws being smaller, and the tail 
 much wider. The heaviest are usually 
 thought to be the best, but those of a 
 middling size are the sweetest. If light, 
 they are watery ; when in perfection, the 
 joints of the legs are stiff, and the 
 body has a very agreeable smell. The 
 eyes look dead and loose when stale, or 
 when the fish have died a natural death. 
 They are boiled in the same manner as 
 lobster, but require rather longer time, 
 and are most usually eaten cold with oil 
 and vinegar, as thus : Pick out all the 
 fish from the shell, divide it into small 
 pieces, mixing the rich part well with the 
 rest ; moisten it with salad dressing, and 
 return it to the shell with an edge all 
 round with sliced lemon. 
 
 If hot, pick the fish out as above ; then 
 put the meat, with a little nutmeg, salt, 
 pepper, bits of butter, crumbs of bread, 
 and three spoonfuls of vinegar, into the 
 shell again, and set it before the fire. 
 You may brown it with a salamander, 
 but it should be always served in the 
 shell. Dry toast should be served to eat 
 with it. Observe to remove " the lady," 
 as it is called. 
 
 214 TO BOIL CEABS. 
 
 Having boiled them twenty minutes, 
 wipe them, crack the claws, rub the shells 
 with oil, and dish them as lobster. To 
 cook soft crabs, take away the claws, cut 
 them open, and remove the sand bag and 
 spongy part ; then put some butter into a 
 frying-pan, and do them brown on both 
 sides. 
 
 215. TO STEW CEABS. 
 
 Pick the meat carefully out of a large 
 crab and its claws ; cut into small pieces, 
 mix it with about a fourth part of bread- 
 crumbs, and a very small quantity of 
 finely shred parsley. Season it well, and 
 
 return it to the shell with some small 
 bits of butter here and there, enough, 
 when warmed, to keep it moist. Squeeze 
 the juice of a lemon over it, or a spoonful 
 of lemon-pickle or acid sauce. Put a 
 thick layer of crumbs of bread upon the 
 top with small bits of butter laid all over 
 it, and bake it in the shell before the fire, 
 or in the oven. The shell of one crab 
 will contain the meat of two. 
 
 Or : Boil them, take the meat out of 
 the bodies and the large claws, put it into 
 a stewpan with half a pint of claret, a 
 spoonful of eschalot-vinegar, a little cay- 
 enne, some salt, and a piece of butter : 
 let them stew for an hdur over a gentle 
 fire, until they are almost dry. Then 
 add a small quantity of fish-stock or 
 gravy, a table-spoonful of essence of an- 
 chovy, and a small piece of butter rolled 
 in flour. Serve with sippets of fried 
 bread round the dish. 
 
 Another way is to put the meat into a 
 stewpan with half a pint of white wine, 
 a spoonful of eschalot or garlic vinegar, a 
 little parsley and thyme minced fine, the 
 yolks of three eggs boiled hard and 
 minced small, and some salt and cayenne 
 pepper. Let it stew gently till quite 
 tender and almost dry ; then add a 
 piece of butter, stir it about for a few 
 minutes over the fire, wash the shells, 
 butter them, put the stewed meat into 
 them, and serve on a napkin. 
 
 216. SMALL CEABS AND CEATFISH 
 Are made sometimes into soup, but 
 more commonly plain, boiled for about a 
 quarter of an hour and eaten cold. In 
 the lower parts of Germany they are 
 eaten hot, with rye-bread and butter, 
 and are there a favorite supper dish in 
 the heat of summer. 
 
 21T.-TO STEW CEAYFISH. 
 Boil them in salt and water, pick the 
 meat out of the tails and claws, put them 
 
208 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 into a stewpan with a little butter, some 
 mushrooms, and truffles; moisten them 
 with a little fish-stock, and simmer a 
 short time over a gentle fire. When 
 nearly done, beat the yolks of two or 
 three eggs with a teacupful of cream and 
 a little chopped parsley ; let all stew to- 
 gether for a few minutes, stirring it all 
 the time, and serve up in a deep dish. 
 
 218.-SOFT SHELLED CEABS. 
 
 Fry the crabs in lard, having taken off 
 the spongy substance, and the sand bag. 
 Crisp parsley in the fat after they come 
 out, and add pepper and salt and rich 
 milk, for the gravy. 
 
 219. TEEEAPINS. 
 
 Put them in boiling water to kill 
 them ; then skin them and take off the 
 nails, wash and put them on again to 
 boil, adding a teaspoon 'of salt to every 
 two. "When tender, remove the shells, 
 sand bags, and gall, carefully ; cut up the 
 meat, season it with pepper, mace, and 
 nutmeg, and put it in a stewpan with 
 the juice that has come out, and for 
 every two terrapins, four ounces of 
 butter in flour, a glass of white wine and 
 the yolks of two eggs beaten. The wine 
 and eggs to be added after the whole is 
 stewed perfectly tender. 
 
 220. CEABS MINCED. 
 
 Remove the meat, mince small and 
 place in a saucepan with a wineglassful 
 of white wine, pepper and salt, nutmeg, 
 cayenne pepper, and two table-spoonfuls 
 of vinegar. Let it stew for ten minutes ; 
 melt a piece of butter the size of a hen's 
 egg, with an anchovy and the yolks of 
 two eggs ; beat up and mix well, stir in 
 with the crab, and add sufficient stale 
 bread-crumbs to thicken. Garnish with 
 thin toast cut with a pastry leaf-cutter, or 
 with the claws, and parsley. Lobster 
 may be dressed in the same manner. 
 
 221. CEAYFISH BUTTEE. 
 
 Take tfce shells of twenty-four cray- 
 fish, clean them well from skin and 
 fibre, put them into an oven to dry, with- 
 out burning or browning, until they can 
 be beaten to a fine powder; mix the 
 powder very well with three ounces of 
 fresh butter, then put it into a stewpan 
 with a spoonful of hot water, mixing it 
 well together; then squeeze the whola 
 through a tamis over a stewpan of boil- 
 ing water ; skim and butter off into a 
 basin of cold water, that it may set; 
 when cold press it in a napkin. 
 
 It forms a beautiful coloring addition 
 to many kinds of dishes, fish especially, 
 and, when mixed with the meat pounded 
 after being taken from the shells, makes 
 fine sauce". 
 
 222. OTSTEES 
 
 Depend very much for goodness upon 
 the beds from which they have been 
 taken. There are several kinds. 
 
 They all come into season, according 
 to an old saying, " so long as there is an 
 R in the month." They are, however, 
 not perfectly good until the beginning of 
 October, and should go out at the end of 
 March. 
 
 When the fish is alive and strong, the 
 shell closes on the knife. They should 
 be eaten as opened, the flavor becoming 
 poor if long exposed to the air. 
 
 223.-TO SCALLOP OYSTEES. 
 
 Take twelve of the smaller sort, beard 
 them, cut out the hard part which ad- 
 heres to their shells, and leave them in 
 their liquor ; have ready a quantity of 
 crumbs of fresh bread, not too finely 
 grated, and mixed with a little pepper 
 and salt; then grease a scallop-shell, 
 strew upon it some of the crumbs with 
 bits of butter, and lay upon them a layer 
 of the oysters ; then crumbs, bits of 
 butter, and oysters, layer upon layer, 
 
SHELL-FIEH. 
 
 209 
 
 until the shell is filled up ; cover it with 
 a thick coating of the crumbs well but- 
 tered, and brown it in a Dutch oven. A 
 dozen oysters, with a proper quantity of 
 crumbs, will fill up the largest scallop- 
 shell, and take an hour to be thoroughly 
 done. 
 
 Some cooks scald the oysters for five 
 minutes, in their own liquor, and mix 
 with them minced shalot, or chives, and 
 pot-herbs ; but these, although they may 
 please an epicurean palate, will destroy 
 the natural flavor of the oyster. 
 
 224. TO SCALLOP OYSTEES. 
 
 For one hundred oysters, take four 
 eggs, boiled hard, and chopped very fine ; 
 mix them with a sixpenny loaf crumbled 
 or grated, and add pepper and salt to 
 taste. Put some of the mixture in the 
 bottom of a pie dish, and lay on it light- 
 ly a layer of oysters, previously rinsed 
 and drained j add a few bits of butter, 
 then cover the oysters with a layer of 
 bread-crumbs and eggs; another layer 
 of oysters, and so on ; covering the top 
 with bread-crumbs. Bake it three-quar- 
 ters of an hour. 
 
 225. TO MAKE OYSTEE FEITTEES. 
 Make a batter with milk, flour, and 
 eggs, beaten light. Have some lard quite 
 hot ; dip out a tablespoonful of the bat- 
 ter, put an oyster into it, and let it down 
 into the boiling lard carefully and fry it 
 on both sides*. This is a better plan than 
 mixing the oysters and batter together. 
 
 226. TO BEOIL OYSTEES. 
 
 Take them from the shells, bearc 
 them, and put them with their liquor 
 into tin shapes made to imitate scallops, 
 six in a shell (not more), with a little 
 pepper and butter. Put the shells upon 
 a gridiron over a good fire, and serve 
 them when plump and quite hgt. They 
 are delicious this way ; but to be eaten 
 in perfection should be cooked in the 
 
 room where they are eaten. Squeeze a 
 ittle lemon-juice over them when they 
 
 come from the fire. 
 
 Or : They may be put singly in their 
 
 under shells along with their own liq^pr, a 
 ittle minced parsley and spice, and a bit 
 
 of butter, and thus put upon the gridiron, 
 
 to be taken off when thoroughly heated. 
 
 22T. WITH WHITE SAUCE. 
 
 Beard the oysters, wash them in their 
 own liquor, then strain it, thicken it with 
 melted butter, or white sauce made of 
 cream, not milk, and flour ; season it with 
 a blade of mace and a few whole pepper- 
 corns tied in a muslin bag. Simmer the 
 oysters very gently, and serve up with 
 sippets of bread : they will require only 
 a few minutes, and if allowed to boil will 
 become hard. 
 
 223. WITH BROWN SAUCE. 
 
 Wash the oysters in their liquor, and 
 then strain it, add a glass of wine, two 
 spoonfuls of beef-gravy, some whole pep- 
 per, a little salt, a piece of butter, and a 
 spoonful of lemon-juice ; boil the whole, 
 stirring it until it is smooth, then put in 
 the oysters, and warm or plump them up 
 without boiling. 
 
 229. OYSTEE EOLLS. 
 Take about a quart of the largest and 
 finest oysters you can procure, stew 
 them in their own liquor with some pep- 
 per, a very little mace, and some green 
 onion chopped fine, thicken them with a 
 little butter and a dust of flour when 
 nearly done enough. Take two French 
 rolls of the square sort baked in tins, 
 cut a piece off the top, and scoop out the 
 greater part of the crumb, fill your roll 
 with the oysters and the liquor, and set 
 them near the fire on a chafing-dish fill- 
 ed with hot coals ; as the liquor soaks in 
 fill them with more, or if you have not 
 any left, add a little good gravy boiling- 
 hot. 
 
210 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 Or :Let them first soak ; then fasten 
 in the top, cover the entire of the roll in 
 batter, and bake it in the Dutch oven till 
 well browned. 
 
 Or .-Mince the oysters, season them 
 only with mace and nutmeg, and fill the 
 rolls up with cream or rich white sauce, 
 and bake them as above: even one large 
 roll will make a nice little dish, and is 
 better than the smaller sort. 
 
 280.-OYSTEE SAUSAGES 
 
 May also be made of the larger kind, 
 bearded and minced small, together with 
 a moderate quantity of beef suet and 
 bread-crumbs, to which should be added 
 a forcemeat of pounded pork or veal, 
 seasoned with spice and put into the 
 usual skins. If well seasoned, they will 
 keep good for a full week : one pound of 
 beef suet shred fine, and the same quan- 
 tity of forcemeat, with bread-crumbs, 
 should be put to each pint of oysters. 
 
 Or : Take one-half pound of lean 
 beef or mutton, three-quarters pound 
 of beef suet, two score of oysters beard- 
 ed and scalded in their own liquor, then 
 dried and all chopped together, adding 
 bread-crumbs and yolks of eggs to bind 
 the materials. Season well with salt, 
 white pepper, mace, and a grate of nut- 
 meg ; or if you wish to make it very 
 savory, leave out the mace and nutmeg, 
 but add a little cayenne, with a minced 
 shalot and a spoonful of garlic-vinegar. 
 They may be either made as sausages, or 
 fried into shapes in the usual way. 
 
 281. OYSTERS A I/IMPERIALS. 
 
 Procure, quite fresh, a barrel of oys- 
 ters, packed as for transmission to 
 the country. Put into a vessel large 
 enough to contain the barrel sufficient 
 water, that when the barrel is in, it may 
 be covered. Heat the water to a boil ; 
 when it is boiling, put in the barrel of 
 oysters just as you have received it from 
 
 the oysterseller ; let it boil twelve min- 
 utes ; take it out, knock off the head, 
 and serve immediately. The flavor of 
 the hot oyster will be found delicious. 
 
 282. OYSTER CURRY. 
 
 Blanch and beard six. dozen oys- 
 ters, leaving them in their own liquor ; 
 then cut two middling-sized onions 
 into small dice, and saute them in a 
 stewpan, with an ounce of butter ; when 
 done, mix in two teaspoonfuls of curry 
 powder and one of curry paste, and pass 
 all through a tammy it ought to be 
 thick ; then add the oysters with their 
 liquor, and keep stirring over the fire 
 until the oysters become enveloped in a 
 thick sauce, which they should be in two 
 minutes, when turn them out upon your 
 dish, and serve with rice separately. 
 
 283. ROAST OYSTERS. 
 
 Large oysters not opened, a few min- 
 utes before they are wanted, put on a 
 gridiron over a moderate fire. When 
 Hone they will open; do not lose the 
 liquor that is in the shell with the oys- 
 ter ; send them hot upon a napkin. 
 
 234 AN OYSTER PIE, WITH SWEET- 
 BREADS. 
 
 Blanch them and take off the beards, 
 separate them from the liquor, blanch 
 some throat sweetbread.8, and when cold 
 cut them in slices, then lay them and the 
 oysters in layers in your -dish, season 
 with salt, pepper, a few grains of mace 
 and nutmeg; add some thick sauce, a 
 little cream, and the oyster liquor, and 
 some good veal stock ; bake in a slow 
 oven. 
 
 235. BREADED OYSTERS. 
 
 Scoop out the crumb' from a small loaf, 
 or some small rolls of bread, and put 
 into the cavity oysters stewed with but- 
 ter and mace, and a little of their liquor, 
 with two or three spoonfuls of rich milk 
 
SHELL-FISH. 
 
 added as they are done. Put on the top 
 of the rolls, the pieces sliced off; set 
 them in the oven a few minutes, and 
 serve on a dish, hot. 
 
 Stewpan. 
 
 236. STEWED OYSTEES. 
 
 The oysters should be bearded and 
 rinsed in their own liquor, which should 
 then be strained and thickened with 
 flour and butter, and placed with the 
 oysters in a stewpan ; add mace, lemon- 
 peel cut into threads, some white pepper 
 whole ; these ingredients had better be 
 confined in a piece of muslin. The stew 
 must simmer only ; if it is suffered to 
 boil, the oysters will become hard ; serve 
 with sippets of bread. This may be 
 varied by adding, a glass of wine to the 
 liquor, before the oysters are put in and 
 warmed. 
 
 23T. SCALLOPED OYSTEES. 
 
 Beard the oysters, wash in their own 
 liquor, steep bread-crumbs in the latter, 
 put them with the oysters into scallop 
 shells, with a bit of butter and season- 
 ing of salt, pepper, and a little grated 
 nutmeg ; make a paste of bread-crumbs 
 and butter; cover, and roast them be- 
 fore the fire, or in an oven. 
 
 238. PICKLED OYSTEES IN THE FEENCH 
 WAY. (A supper dish.) 
 
 Take four dozen oysters, strain the 
 liquor, add six blades of mace, twelve 
 peppercorns, a little grated lemon-peel 
 and two or three bay-leaves. Put the 
 liquor to boil ; when boiling, add the 
 oysters for two minutes. (Some per- 
 sons put half vinegar, half liquor.] 
 
 When cold, strain off the liquor. Place 
 he oysters in a small dish, and garnish 
 vith parsley. 
 
 289. PICKLED OYSTEES. 
 (By a Lady of New York.) 
 
 Scald the oysters in their liquor, or in 
 water with a little salt ; take them out 
 with a skimmer, and throw them into 
 cold water. Take whole allspice, black 
 )epper and mace, and boil it up in the 
 iquor in which the oysters were boiled ; 
 when it tastes enough of the spices take 
 t off. Let the oysters drain on a sieve. 
 When the liquor is cold add vinegar to 
 taste, and then put in the oysters. 
 
 240. TO DEESS COLD FISH. 
 
 Dip a flat dish in hot water, to prevent 
 cracking; smear it with butter, and 
 sprinkle white pepper on it ; then a 
 thick layer of stale bread, grated fine ; 
 a layer of the fish, picked from bones, 
 and broken small ; a little melted butter 
 prepared without milk poured over 
 another layer of bread then of fish, 
 with butter as before ; repeated as often 
 as required for quantity of fish, and size 
 of dish. Smooth the surface with a 
 spoon, and sprinkle slightly fine bread, 
 mixed with white pepper on the top. 
 Place it for twenty or thirty minutes, 
 according to thickness, before a brisk 
 fire, with a tin shade at back of dish, 
 to reflect the heat. Cold washed mut- 
 ton may be redressed the same way ; 
 first wiping the meat, quite free from 
 gravy, in a napkin. 
 
 Is 
 
 Fish Scissors, to trim pan-fish for frying. 
 241. CASSEEOLE OF FISH 
 
 a title given, among others, 
 
 by 
 
212 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 French cooks, to " poisson recliauffe" 
 or fish which has been left after being 
 dressed, and is meant to be re-heated. 
 There are almost as many modes of 
 doing, this, as of originally dressing the 
 various sorts ; but we here only retain 
 a few of the most simple : 
 
 Take any kind of cold fish, and divide 
 it into large flakes ; boil two or three 
 eggs hard, and cut them into slices; 
 have also some mashed potatoes ; butter 
 a mould, and put in the fish, eggs, and 
 potatoes, with a little delicate seasoning 
 of white pepper ; moisten the whole with 
 cream, or thin melted butter, and a spqon- 
 ful of essence of anchovies ; boil the 
 mould and turn it out. 
 
 Or: Take some fish which has been 
 dressed, and rub it througn a sieve ; to 
 half a pound of fish allow a quarter of a 
 pound of bread-crumbs, two eggs well 
 beaten, one tablespoonful of essence of an- 
 chovies, one of Harvey sauce, and a little 
 salt and cayenne pepper ; mix all well to- 
 gether, and put it into a mould ; let it boil 
 half an hour, and serve it with a good 
 fish- sauce in the dish. 
 
 Or : Take half a pint of good gravy, 
 with a couple of glasses of wine, two 
 tablespoonfuls of anchovy liquor, and 
 two of vinegar, seasoned high with cay- 
 enne, mustard, salt, and shalot; mince 
 the fish, but do not put it in the mortar, 
 and either warm it as a fricassee, and 
 bring it up in a dish with sippets j or, 
 put it into a form, piled up high in the 
 centre, cover it with bread-crumbs and 
 bits of butter, and brown it with a sala- 
 mander. 
 
 242. FISH TURTLE. (English.) 
 
 For this imitation, sturgeon is the 
 best material, but, if not in season, cut 
 some ling into handsome pieces, and fry 
 it ; then boil an equal quantity of skate, 
 also cut in pieces j and having cleaned 
 
 and soaked two or three cod-sounds, 
 stew them until green, with a little 
 spinach, and cut them into pieces ; then 
 have a sufficient quantity of good gravy, 
 into which the liquor of two or three 
 dozen of oysters has been strained ; thick- 
 en it with cream or butter ; put it into 
 a stewpan with the fish already named, a 
 lobster cut in pieces, a spoonful of es- 
 sence of anchovies, and a glass of Madeira. 
 Warm the whole together, and send it to 
 table with a lemon garnish. The sauce 
 to this dish must be very rich, and of a 
 fine dark color. 
 
 243. FISH 
 
 This is a pretty mode of enclosing a 
 fricassee of fish with a potato wall with- 
 out a crust of pastry. Mash in a mortar 
 as many potatoes as you may want, with 
 a good piece of butter ; then, with the 
 bowls of two silver spoons, raise a wall 
 of it two and a half inches high within the 
 rim of the dish to be used. Let the 
 upper part be a little thinner than the 
 lower; smooth it; and, after brushing 
 it all over with egg, put it into the oven 
 to become hot, and a little colored. Be- 
 fore egging it, the outside may be orna- 
 mented with flowers, leaves, &c., by the 
 small tin shapes used to cut' paste. 
 
 Beat the whole of a crab picked clean 
 from the shell in a marble mortar, with 
 white pepper and salt, nutmeg, and a 
 very few crumbs of bread ; warm it with 
 a little gravy thickened with cream or 
 butter and a spoonful of wine, and, when 
 thoroughly warmed, add a little lemon- 
 juice. Pour it into potato walls pre- 
 viously baked, but not covered like a 
 pie, and serve it up hot, either browning 
 it with the salamander, or covering the 
 top with fancifully arranged small claws. 
 
 244 FISH CAKE. 
 
 Cut the meat from the bones, put 
 
DKESSED FISH. 
 
 213 
 
 them, the head and fins, over the fire to 
 stew for gravy, with a pint of water, an 
 onion, herbs, popper, and salt. Mince 
 the meat, put to it one-third part of 
 crumbs of bread, a little minced onion, 
 parsley, pepper, salt, and a very small bit 
 of mace ; mix well, and make it into a 
 cake with white of egg and a little melt- 
 ed butter ; cover it with raspings, and fry 
 it a pale brown, keeping a plate on the 
 top while doing. Then lay it in a stew- 
 pan, with the fish gravy, and stew it 
 gently a quarter of an hour ; turn it twice, 
 but with great care not to break it : cover 
 it closely while stewing. 
 
 Cake of dressed meat, done in the same 
 way, is remarkably good. 
 
 245. FISH-CUTLETS. 
 
 Chop a considerable quantity of herbs 
 with a small piece of shalot, season it 
 with pepper and salt, and put it into a 
 stewpan with two ounces of butter ; as 
 the butter is melting add a teaspoonful 
 of essence of anchovies. Do not allow 
 the butter to more than melt, and mix 
 the whole well together ; then cut any 
 kind of white fish, dressed or raw, into 
 handsome cutlets, and, when the herb 
 seasoning is nearly cold, spread it on the 
 fish thickly with a knife; dredge the 
 fish with bread-crumbs, and cook them 
 on buttered pans in an oven, or before the 
 fire. Stew a few silver button-onions, 
 or a chopped onion, with any green vege- 
 tables in season, cut it into dice in a little 
 broth, add nasturtiums and a little of the 
 pickle; keep them in the middle of a 
 dish, and lay the cutlets round. 
 
 Or : Take any fish previously dress- 
 ed, pull it in pieces, and mix it with a 
 little good stock, and any fish sauce 
 which may have been left from table ; 
 spread it on a flat dish, brush it with egg 
 and sprinkle thick with bread-crumbs, 
 cut it out in cutlets, and fry brown. 
 
 246. KEDGEREE FOE BEEAKFAST. 
 
 Boil two tablospoonfnls of rice, add any 
 fish previously cooked (salmon or turbot 
 is preferable), and nicely picked ; beat 
 up an egg well, and stir it in just before 
 serving. The egg must not boil. 
 
 247. FEICANDELLES OF FISH. 
 
 Take any quantity that, may be con- 
 venient of either dressed or undressed 
 fish of firm quality ; skin and bone it ; 
 mince it of the size of dice, with a few 
 anchovies, say two to each pound, sea- 
 soned with mace, cayenne, and a grating 
 of nutmeg ; soak the crumb of a French 
 roll, one to each pound, in milk, and 
 beat it up with the yolks of two eggs to 
 each roll, so as to make it into a puree, 
 and put the fish into it ; warm the whole 
 gently, and add to it a moderate quan- 
 tity of cream. 
 
 Put the fish thus prepared into a but- 
 tered mould, cover it thickly with bread- 
 crumbs, and either bake it in a Dutch 
 oven, or warm it before the fire, and 
 brown it with the salamander. 
 
 A few o}*sters are an excellent addi- 
 tion ; and if wine be employed instead of 
 milk, the dish may be dressed in the same 
 manner, but rather more highly sea- 
 soned. 
 
 248. A MATELOTE OF FISH. (English.) 
 Take carp or tench, or both, together 
 with an eel and any small fish ; cut them 
 into pieces, and put them along with a 
 quantity of button-onions into a stewpan 
 containing just wine or gravy enough of 
 any sort to cover them, and let them 
 stew very gently until nearly done ; then 
 have ready a couple of minced truffles 
 and a good handful of shrimps to mix 
 into the sauce, which may be made of 
 either white or red wine ; the red may 
 be made the more savory, but the white 
 wine will be found the most delicate : it 
 should be thickened with yolk of egg ? 
 
214 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 and the dish garnished with sippets of 
 fried bread. 
 
 249. KAGOUT OF FISH. 
 
 Take carp, perch, pike, and eels ; clean 
 and scale them well, and cut them into 
 pieces for serving; put in your stew- 
 pan a good-sized piece of butter, let it 
 fry to a pale brown, fry some flour in it, 
 and add a quart or two of good bouillon 
 with a glass or two of red wine, and a 
 few cloves and onions. When boiling 
 put your ragout into it, let it well boil, 
 and add some lemon-juice before serving 
 it up. 
 
 250. A VOL-AU-VENT 
 
 Of fish, of any sort, is an elegant side- 
 dish when prepared either with meat 
 gravy or made up maigre. 
 
 Muscles also make an excellent wl~ 
 au-vent. 
 
 251. STEWED FISH, HEBREW FASHION. 
 
 Take three or four parsley-roots, cut 
 them into long thin slices, and two or 
 three onions also sliced, boil them to- 
 gether in a quart of water until quite 
 tender ; then flavor it with ground white 
 pepper, nutmeg, mace, and a little saffron, 
 the juice of two lemons, and a spoonful 
 of vinegar. Put in the fish, and let it 
 stew for twenty, or thirty minutes ; then 
 take it out, strain the gravy, thicken it 
 with a little flour and butter, have balls 
 made of chopped fish, bread-crumbs, 
 spices, and the yolk of one or two eggs 
 mixed up together, and drop them into 
 the liquor. Let them boil, then put in 
 the fish, and serve it up with the balls 
 %nd parsley-roots. 
 
 252.-SAUCES FOR FISH. 
 The stock for fish sauces should be 
 made of the water in which fish has been 
 boiled, adding the bones ; fins, &c.,-all well 
 
 stewed down ; when fish is filleted, the 
 bones should always be employed in this 
 way : Stew them with an onion and a 
 little white pepper; strain the broth, 
 which will be very rich, thicken it with 
 cream, butter, and flour, or roux. and add 
 whatever the sauce is to be made of. The 
 following may be generally used, accord- 
 ing to fancy, for nearly every species of 
 fish: 
 
 253. HOESEEADISH SAUCE. 
 
 Stew an onion in a little fish-stock un- 
 til it will pulp ; add a teaspoonful of 
 grated horseradish, and one or two spoon- 
 fuls of essence of anchovies. Beat all to- 
 gether over a fire, thicken it with a little 
 butter, and finish with a spoonful of lem- 
 on pickle or lemon. juice. Vinegar may 
 be substituted, in which case it must be 
 mixed with the horseradish, and boiled 
 with it ; while the lemon, or lemon pic- 
 kle, being of a more delicate flavor, should 
 only be warmed. 
 
 Or : Scrape the horseradish thin and 
 chop it small, or grate it. which is better ; 
 warm it in melted butter, adding a spoon- 
 ful of mushroom ketchup, and one of wal- 
 nut, or the vinegar from walnut-pickle. 
 
 254. FOE ALL SOETS OF FISH. 
 t 
 
 Take a spoonful of vinegar, one of In- 
 dian soy, the same of mushroom ketchup 
 aud Harvey's sauce, with a little cayenne. 
 Add three large spoonfuls of melted but- 
 ter; stir all well, and heat it over the 
 fire. 
 
 Or: Put equal quantities of water 
 and vinegar into a saucepan, and thicken 
 it with the yolk of an egg to every four 
 spoonfuls of the water and vinegar. Make 
 it quite hot, but do not boil it ; stir it or 
 shake the pan all the time ; season it to 
 your liking, and add a spoonful of the 
 liquid to every three of melted butter. 
 
 255. WHITE SAUCE. 
 
 Haifa pint of cream } two tablespoonfuls 
 
SAUCES FOR FISH. 
 
 215 
 
 of mushroom ketchup ; one of essence of 
 anchovy, with a little cayenne pepper, 
 and an ounce or two of butter rolled in 
 flour ; boil all together for five minutes. 
 
 256. BEOWN SAUCE. 
 Fry an onion in butter and flour until 
 it becomes brown ; then simmer it in a 
 glass of port wine, with a tablespoonful 
 of soy and walnut ketchup, seasoned with 
 salt and cayene ; strain it, and thicken it 
 with the necessary quantity of melted 
 butter. 
 
 257. ANCHOVY SAUCE. 
 To about half a pint of melted butter 
 put two tablespoonfuls of good essence of 
 anchovies, with the juice of half a lemon. 
 Serve very hot. 
 
 258. FENNEL SAUCE. 
 This is a sauce principally used for 
 boiled mackerel. Make the same quan- 
 tity of melted butter as in the last, to 
 which add a good tablespoonful of 
 chopped fennel ; it is usually served in a 
 boat. 
 
 259. BUTTER OF ANCHOVIES. 
 To make this butter you must have 
 young anchovies. Take them out of the 
 pickle and wash them well. Take off the 
 bones and head, and then pound them in 
 a mortar with fresh butter, till very fine J 
 rub this through a hair sieve. Put this 
 butter when made, into a pot well cover- 
 ed, to use when wanted; observe, how- 
 ever, that it soon becomes rank. 
 
 260. EGG SAUCE 
 Is generally served with salt fish or 
 haddock. Boil six eggs ten minutes ; let 
 them get cold ; then cut them in pieces 
 about the size of dice ; put them into a 
 stewpan with three parts of a pint of 
 melted or drawn butter; add an ounce 
 more fresh butter, with a little pepper anc 
 
 salt ; keep the stewpan moving round over* 
 foe fire until the whole is very hot, and 
 serve in a boat. 
 
 261.-CAPEE SAUCE FOE FISH. 
 Take some melted butter, into which 
 throw a small bit of glaze, and when the 
 sauce is in a state of readiness throw into 
 t some choice capers, salt and pepper, 
 and a spoonful of essence of anchovies. 
 
 262. NEW LOBSTEE SAUCE. 
 
 If you use the 'Solid flesh for salad, 
 pound the soft part and shell together (in 
 a mortar) very fine, which put into a 
 stewpan, covered with a pint of boiling 
 water ; place it over the fire to simmer 
 for ten minutes, then pass the liquor 
 through a hair sieve into a basin; put 
 three ounces of butter into a stewpan. 
 into which rub (cold) a good tablespoon- 
 ful of flour, add the liquor from the lob- 
 ster, place it upon the fire, stirring until 
 the point of boiling ; season with a little 
 cayenne, and add a piece of anchovy but- 
 ter, the size of a walnut ; or, if any red 
 spawn is in the lobster, mix it with butter, 
 as in the last, and add it, with the juice 
 of hah " a lemon, just before serving. An 
 anchovy pounded with the lobster-shells 
 would be an improvement, and part of 
 the flesh of the lobster might be served 
 in the sauce. 
 
 263. LOBSTEE SAUCE 1 LA CEEME. 
 
 Cut a small lobster into slices the size 
 of half-crown pieces, which put into a 
 stewpan ; pound the soft and white parts 
 with an ounce of butter, and rub it 
 through a sieve ; pour ten spoonfuls of 
 melted butter, and two of cream, over 
 the slices in the stewpan, add half a 
 blade of mace, a saltspoonful of salt, a 
 quarter ditto of pepper, and a little cay- 
 enne ; warm gently, and when upon the 
 point of boiling, add the butter and two 
 tablespoonfuls of thick cream; shake 
 
216 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 round over the fire until quite hot, when 
 it is ready to serve. 
 
 264 LOBSTER SAUCE SIMPLIFIED. 
 Put the slices of lobster into a stew- 
 pan, with ten tablespoonfuls of milk; 
 add a little pepper, salt, cayenne, two 
 cloves, and half a blade of mace ; set it 
 upon the fire, and when on the point of 
 boiling, add a piece of butter the size of 
 two walnuts, with which you have mix- 
 ed a little flour ; shake round over the 
 fire, and when getting rather thick, add 
 two spoonfuls of cream, if at hand, and 
 serve very hot. 
 
 265.-LOBSTEE SAUCE.- (French receipt.) 
 A hen lobster is indispensable for this 
 sauce. Put some of the spawn of the 
 fish into a mortar, to be pounded very 
 fine ; add to it a small bit of butter. 
 "When very fine, rub it through a hair 
 sieve, and cover till wanted. Break the 
 lobster with great care, cut all the flesh 
 into dice, not too small ; dilute some of 
 the red spawn in melted butter, with 
 two spoonfuls of essence of anchovies, 
 a little salt and cayenne pepper, two 
 spoonfuls of thick cream, and mix all 
 well before the meat is added, as that 
 must retain its dice-like form. Do not 
 let this sauce boil. It must be very red. 
 Add to it a teaspoonful of cavice, and 
 observe that the cavice should be very 
 old ; two or three years' age renders it 
 excellent. 
 
 266. SOYER'S LOBSTER AND SHRIMP 
 SAUCE FOR SALMON. 
 
 Lobster. Put twelve spoonfuls of 
 melted butter into a stewpan; cut a 
 middle-sized hen lobster into dice, make 
 one-quarter pound of lobster butter 
 with the spawn by pounding it well in a 
 mortar, adding one-quarter pound fresh 
 butter, and rubbing the mixture through 
 a hair sieve ; add this to the melted but- 
 ter when just boiling ; stir it over the 
 
 fire till the butter is melted ; season with 
 a little essence of anchovy, the juice ol 
 half a lemon, and a -quarter of a tea- 
 spoonful of cayenne ; pass it through a 
 tamis (a coarse flannel) into another 
 stewpan ; then add the flesh of the lob- 
 ster. Serve it hot. This sauce must be 
 red ; if not red hi the lobster, use live 
 spawn. 
 
 Shrimp. Make the melted butter as 
 above, but finish with essence of shrimps, 
 and serve half a pint of pickled shrimps 
 in the boat with it; or the anchovy 
 sauce may be served with shrimps in it 
 as a substitute, if there is no essence of 
 shrimps. 
 
 267. SHRIMP SAUCE 
 Is also very good as follows : Pound 
 half a pint of shrimps, skins and all, in a 
 mortar, and boil them ten minutes in 
 half a pint of water ; pass the liquor 
 through a hair sieve into a stewpan, and 
 add a piece of butter the size of two" 
 walnuts, with which you have mixed a 
 good teaspoonful of flour, stir it round 
 over the fire until upon the point of 
 boiling ; if too thick, add a little more 
 water ; season with a little cayenne and 
 a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies ; 
 serve very hot ; a few picked shrimps 
 might also be served in it. 
 
 268. LOBSTER SAUCE. 
 
 Put twelve tablespoonfuls of melted 
 butter in a stewpan, cut up a small-sized 
 lobster into dice ; make a quarter of a 
 pound of lobster butter with the spawn, 
 as directed ; when the melted butter is 
 upon the point of boiling, add the lobster 
 butter, stir the sauce round over the fire 
 until the butter is melted, season with a 
 little essence of anchovies, the juice of 
 half a lemon, and a quarter of a salt- 
 spoonful of cayenne pepper; pass it 
 through a tammy into another stewpan, 
 and add the flesh of the lobster. This 
 sauce must be red. 
 
SAUCES FOR FISH. 
 
 217 
 
 269. MATELOTE SAUCE. 
 
 For about a pound slice of salmon 
 make the following quantity of sauce > 
 Peel thirty button onions, and put 
 half a teaspoonful of sugar in a quart- 
 sized stcwpan, place it over a sharp fire, 
 and when melted and getting brown, add 
 a piece of butter (the size of two wal- 
 nuts) and the onions, toss them over 
 now and then until rather brown, then 
 add a glass of sherry ; let it boil ; then 
 add half a pint of brown sauce and a 
 gill of broth ; simmer at the corner of 
 the fire until the onions are quite tender ; 
 skim it well, and add a few mushrooms, 
 if at hand ; season with a little salt and 
 sugar, and sauce over any kind of fish 
 where described. The addition of a tea- 
 spoonful of essence of anchovies is an 
 improvement. Use where directed. 
 
 2TO. MATELOTE SAUCE SIMPLIFIED. 
 
 Proceed as above respecting the on- 
 ions, only add a fourth more butter, and 
 fry them a little browner ; then add a 
 glass of sherry and two teaspoonfuls of 
 flour, which stir round gently with a 
 small wooden spoon ; add to it about a 
 pint of water, stir now and then till boil- 
 ing, add three saltspoonfuls of salt, two 
 of sugar, one of pepper, and a bouquet 
 garni ; simmer and skim, add a few drops 
 of coloring to give it a nice brown color ; 
 when ready to serve, add a good table- 
 spoonful of anchovy essence ; it ought to 
 adhere lightly to the back of the spoon, 
 but not be too thick ; sauce over or un- 
 .der, as directed ; small pieces of glaze, 
 if thickened with the eggs (great care 
 must be exercised, for if it should be- 
 come too hot the eggs would curdle, and 
 render the sauce useless ;) then add half 
 a pint of melted butter ; stir all together 
 over the fire 4 . 
 
 271. OYSTEE 8AUQE. 
 
 Blanch three dozen oysters 5 which again 
 
 put into the stewpan, with their liquor 
 (after having detached the beards) ; add 
 six peppercorns and half a blade of mace ; 
 place them over the fire, and when be- 
 ginning to simmer, add a piece of butter 
 the size of a walnut, with which you 
 have mixed sufficient flour to form a 
 paste, break it in four or five pieces j 
 shake the stewpan round over the fire, 
 and when upon the point of boiling, and 
 becoming thick, add half a gill of milk, or 
 more if required; season with a little 
 cayenne, salt, pepper, and a few drops of 
 essence of anchovies : serve very hot. 
 
 272. MUSSEL SAUCE. 
 Proceed exactly the same as for oyster 
 sauce, using only the liquor of the mus- 
 sels (not the beards) instead of the 
 oysters, and serving the mussels in the 
 sauce ; about four dozen would be suffi- 
 cient. 
 
 278.-*COD SAUCE. 
 
 Take a bunch of parsley, chervil, two 
 shalots, two cloves, a bay-leaf, some 
 mushrooms, and a bit of butter, soak all 
 together on the fire, adding a small 
 spoonful of flour, and milk or cream 
 sufficient to boil to the consistence of a 
 sauce, and add to it some chopped pars- 
 ley first scalded. 
 
 .,* 274 EEL SAUCE. 
 
 Cut the eels into large pieces and put 
 them into a stewpan with a few slices of 
 bacon, ham, veal, two onions, with all 
 sorts of roots; soak it till it catches, 
 then add a glass of white wine and good 
 broth, a little cullis, three or four tarra- 
 gon leaves, chervil, a clove of garlic, two 
 of spices, and a bay-leaf; simmer for an 
 hour, skim it very well, and sift it in a 
 sieve for use. 
 
 275.-SAUCE FOE FISH. 
 
 Twenty-four anchovies chopped; ten 
 
218 
 
 THE PEACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 eschalots ; two ounces of horseradish, 
 scraped ; four blades of mace ; one lemon 
 sliced; twelve cloves; quarter of an 
 ounce of black pepper, whole ; one gill 
 of the anchovy liquor ; one quart of best 
 vinegar; one quart of water. Let the 
 whole simmer on the fire until reduced to 
 one quart, in a covered saucepan ; strain 
 and bottle for use. If required for long 
 keeping, add a quarter of an ounce of cay- 
 enne pepper. 
 
 276. LOBSTER SAUCE. 
 Pick the meat from a lobster and cut 
 it into small pieces. Break the shell, 
 and stew it with the legs, &c., in a pint 
 and a half of water, until reduced to the 
 quantity required ; then strain ; add 
 flour and water to thicken it. Pound 
 some of the live spawn from the tail, add- 
 ing a little water to it ; when well pound- 
 ed pour it by degrees into the sauce ; let 
 it boil up ; add fresh butter to it in the 
 proportion of three-fourths of a pound 
 of butter to a quart of sauce ; throw in 
 the lobster : season with a little anchovy, 
 cayenne, salt, and a small quantity of 
 lemon-juice. It should be thick rather 
 than thin. 
 
 Or : Take a cold boiled hen lobster ; 
 split the tail, and pound the coral, which 
 is found in the tail and in the body, in a 
 mortar, adding a little sweet oil. Then 
 chop the meat of the body into very small 
 pieces, and rub it, along with the soft 
 parts and coral, through a sieve. That 
 done, cut up the flesh of the claws and 
 tail into dice, and stir the entire mixture 
 gradually into the proper quantity of 
 melted butter, without suffering it to 
 boil ; as, if too much heated, the flavor 
 and color of the sauce will be injured. 
 The seasoning should only be a moderate 
 quantity of mace and cayenne, with half 
 a glass of white wine, or a cup of cream, 
 to a pint tureen of sauce. 
 
 Crab Sauce is made in the same man- 
 ner ; but crabs, being without coral, and 
 .the flesh less firm than that of lobster, 
 form a rather inferior sauce. 
 
 27T. SHEIMP SAUCE. 
 
 Pick the heads and skins from some 
 fresh shrimps and stew these offals for 
 half an hour in a small quantity of 
 boiling water to extract their flavor ; 
 then strain the liquor and make use of it 
 in melting the butter in which the shell- 
 ed shrimps are to be dressed ; these are 
 then to be put into the butter and liquor 
 to simmer gently for about twenty min- 
 utes, in which time they will be suffi- 
 ciently done, and their flavor is so deli- 
 cate that neither anchovy sauce, mace, 
 cayenne pepper, nor any other condiment 
 than salt, should be put to them ; add a 
 little cream. * 
 
 A pint of unshelled shrimps will make 
 a tureen of sauce large enough for four 
 or five persons. 
 
 GEAYY, SAUCES, ETC. 
 
 THERE is nothing that requires more 
 attention on the part of the cook than the 
 sauces which are wanted to all made 
 dishes. Where a calf's head or a breast 
 of veal is stewed, nothing more will be 
 required, as both will yield an abundant 
 supply, and it will only be necessary to 
 give it the proper flavor with ham, or 
 beef-bone, and ketchup. 
 
 GEAYY 
 
 May be made quite as good of the 
 skirts of beef, kidney, or of the liver of a 
 fat ox, as of any other kind of meat, if 
 cut in pieces, fried with onions, and sea- 
 soned with herbs and spices, as other 
 gravies. - A clever servant will contrive 
 to supply at a trifling expense, as much 
 gravy as is wanted for the use of a small 
 
GRAVIES. 
 
 219 
 
 family by stewing down the trimmings 
 of meat and bones. It may even be made 
 of the shank-bones of legs and shoulders 
 of mutton ; they should be thrown into 
 water, and, after a good soaking and 
 brushing, be long boiled. The water in 
 which they are done will add greatly to 
 the richness of gravy, as does the jelly of 
 cow-heels. The latter must lie all night 
 in water, which causes the jelly to be of 
 a good color. When boiled three hours, 
 and become cold, let the fat be carefully 
 taken off; and when apparently quite 
 clear, lay some white paper upon it, rub- 
 bing it close with a spoon, which will re- 
 move every particle of grease, and it will 
 be as pure as the jelly of a calf's foot. 
 
 In preparing meat to stew for gravy, 
 beat it with a mallet or rolling-pin, and 
 score it across in various places, as this 
 will make it give out its juices ; season 
 it with pepper and salt, and put it into 
 a stewpan with butter, only, heating it 
 gradually until it becomes brown, but 
 shaking the pan frequently to see that it 
 does not burn or stick to the bottom. It 
 will generally be browned sufficiently in 
 half an hour. If kept in a very cool 
 place and covered closely in a stone jar, 
 it will keep good for two or three days in 
 summer, and more than a week in winter, 
 but should not be thickened until it is 
 meant to be used. 
 
 Tarragon and knotted marjoram, by 
 some called " London thyme," are a great 
 improvement to gravies, as also all those 
 condiments enumerated in the chapter on 
 soups, but should be added only a short 
 time before serving. 
 
 Truffles and morels also thicken anc 
 improve the flavor of gravies and soups 
 half an ounce being carefully washed 
 of each, simmer them in a pint of water 
 and add the whole. 
 
 In the preparation of large dinners for 
 company, it is indispensable to procure 
 strong gravy to color ami impart flavor 
 to sauces and ragouts, and this can be 
 
 lone by using coarse pieces of the lean of 
 >eef or veal, and the giblets or trimmings 
 f poultry and game, with a small portion 
 )f a knuckle of ham ; but for this purpose 
 t must be stewed for a long time, skim- 
 med, strained, thickened, and afterwards 
 lavored with whatever condiments are 
 most suited to the dish it is to accompany. 
 
 2T8. STOCK FOE GRAVY. 
 
 A good mode of making stock for gra- 
 ies is to cut lean beef thin, put it into a 
 jjravy pot without any butter or fat, and 
 set it on a fire covered, but take care it 
 does not burn ; let it stay till all the gra- 
 vy that comes out of the meat is dried up 
 into it again, often shaking it; put as 
 much water as will cover the meat, and 
 let that stew away. Then put to the 
 meat a small quantity of water, herbs, 
 onions, spice, and a bit of lean ham ; sim- 
 mer till it is rich, and keep it in a closet 
 refrigerator. Do not take off the fat till 
 going to be used. 
 
 Closet Refrigerator. 
 
 Or, an excellent stock may be made in 
 this manner : Put into a casserole three 
 ounces of butter, four large carrots, six 
 middling-sized onions, three roots of pars- 
 ley sliced ; a small sprig of thyme ; three 
 cloves; three bay-leaves ; two pounds of 
 small fresh fish cut fine, with salt, pep- 
 per, and one-half a bottle of white (but 
 not' sweet) wine, and nearly as much 
 broth. Cover close, and simmer until the 
 
220 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 whole be mashed; strain it through a 
 fine sieve. In another casserole stew a 
 pint of mushrooms, a little parsley and 
 herbs, in half a pint of water, till the 
 flavor of all be obtained ; strain both li- 
 quors, and heat them together. - 
 
 279 BEEF GRAYT. 
 
 Cut a piece of the cheek or neck into 
 pieces ; strew some fiour over it ; mix it 
 well with the meat, and put it into the 
 saucepan with as much water as will cov- 
 er it ; an onion, a little allspice, a little 
 pepper, and some salt ; cover it close, and 
 when it boils skim it ; then throw in a 
 small crust of bread, or raspings, and stew 
 it till the gravy is rich and good ; strain 
 it off, and pour it into a sauce boat. 
 
 280. GEAYY FOR A HAUNCH OF YENISON. 
 Cut off the fat from two or three pounds 
 of a loin of old mutton, and set it in 
 steaks on a gridiron for a few minutes, 
 just to brown one side ; put them into 
 a saucepan with a quart of water ; cover 
 quite close for an hour, and simmer it 
 gently ; then uncover it, and stew till the 
 gravy is reduced to a pint ; season with 
 salt only. 
 
 231. YEAL GRAVY. 
 
 When all the meat has been taken from 
 a knuckle of veal, divide the bones, and 
 lay them in a stewpot, with a pound of 
 the scrag of a neck, an ounce of lean ba- 
 con, a bunch of parsley, a little thyme, 
 a bit of lemon peel, and a dessert-spoon- 
 ful of pepper ; add as much water as will 
 cover them. Boil and skim it ; stop the 
 pot down close, and let it simmer as slow- 
 ly as possible three hours. Strain off, 
 and let it stand till cold ; then skim it, 
 and take the jelly from the sediment. 
 Pound some mace fine, and boil it with 
 two spoonfuls of water, and add to the 
 gravy. If cream is to be put to it, do 
 not add the salt until the gravy comes 
 off the fire. 
 
 2S2. GRAYY TO MAKE MUTTON EAT 
 LIKE YENISON. 
 
 Pick a very stale woodcock or snipe ; 
 cut it in pieces (but first take out the 
 bag from the entrails), and simmer with 
 as much unseasoned meat-gravy as you 
 vill want. Strain it and serve in the dish ; 
 but if the mutton be not long kept, it 
 will not acquire the venison flavor. 
 
 288. YELOUTE. 
 
 Take one pound of veal, with the re- 
 mains of a fowl and a dozen full-grown 
 mushrooms, or a smaller number of green 
 truffles ; heat these in melted butter, or 
 beef fat, without browning ; season with 
 salt, pepper, nutmeg, or mixed spices, to 
 which may be added a couple of carrots 
 and onions, with a table-spoonful or two 
 of flour. When boiled, skim off the fat, 
 and let it simmer for one and a half hours, 
 after which strain it, and keep it closely 
 stopped for furtker use. 
 
 284. BEEF GRAYY. (French Receipt.) 
 Trim with layers of fat bacon the bot- 
 tom of a thick stewpan ; cut four large 
 onions in halves, and lay the flat part 
 over the bacon ; take a few pieces of beef, 
 put them in the same manner as in the veal 
 gravy ; moisten with the first broth only. 
 Let this sweat, to get all tjie gravy out of 
 the beefj and when the broth is reduced, 
 thrust a knife into the meat ; let it stew 
 gently on a slow fire till the gravy is a 
 light brown color. Next moisten with 
 some broth ; thro^v in a large bunch of 
 parsley and of green onions ; a little salt, 
 and a peppercorn. Let the whole boil 
 for an hour ; take the fat off, and drain 
 it through a silken sieve, to use when 
 wanted. 
 
 285. GRAYY CLEAR. 
 
 Slice some beef thinly, broil a part of 
 it over a very clear, quick fire, just 
 enough to give color to the gravy, but 
 
GRAVIES. 
 
 221 
 
 not to dress it ; put that with the raw 
 into a tinned stewpan with a couple of 
 onions, one or two cloves, whole black 
 pepper, berries of allspice, and a bunch 
 of sweet herbs ; cover it with hot water, 
 give it one boil, and skim it two or three 
 times, then cover it, and let it simmer 
 till quite strong. 
 
 286. CUEEY POWDERS. 
 
 One ounce of ginger, the same of cori- 
 ander-seed, one-half ounce of cayenne 
 pepper, and two ounces of fine pale tur- 
 meric ; these ingredients to be pounded 
 separately to a fine powder, and then 
 warmed by the fire, and mixed together. 
 Put the powder into a wide-mouthed 
 bottle, cork it well down, and put it into 
 a dry place. 
 
 Or : One tablespoonful of coriander- 
 seed, one teaspoonml of cumin-seed, the 
 same of turmeric and of cayenne pepper, 
 anjl one table-spoonful of common flour. 
 When to be used mix all these ingredi- 
 ents in their several proportions, with 
 two table-spoonfuls of lemon-pickle and 
 four of cream, adding this mixture to the 
 fried onions and butter, &c. 
 
 Or : One and a half ounces of mus- 
 tard-seed scorched and finely powdered, 
 four ounces of coriander seed powdered, 
 four and a half ounces of turmeric, three 
 ounces of black pepper, one and a quar- 
 ter ounces of cayenne pepper, one ounce 
 of the lesser cardamoms, one-half ounce 
 of ginger, and one .of cumin-seed, all 
 finely powdered. The flavor may be 
 varied by the addition of all or any of 
 the following ingredients : cinnamon, in 
 powder, one ounce ; cloves, ditto, one- 
 half ounce ; mace, ditto, one-half ounce. 
 
 28T. CUEEY POWDEE. 
 (Kitchiner's tried Eeceipt) 
 
 Dry and reduce to a fine powder the 
 following spices : 
 Coriander-seed, three ounces, 
 
 Turmeric, three ounces, 
 
 Black pepper, one ounce, 
 Mustard, one ounce, . . 
 
 Ginger, one ounce, 
 
 Lesser cardamoms half an ounce, 
 Cayenne pepper, a quarter of an ounce, 
 Cumin-seed, a quarter of an ounce. 
 Thoroughly pound and mix, and keep 
 them in a closely stopped bottle. Three 
 ounces of the powder steeped ten days 
 in a quart of vinegar or white wine, will 
 impregnate it with the flavor. 
 
 288. DELHI CUEEY POWDEE. 
 Twenty teaspoonfuls of turmeric, 
 eight of pounded chilis or cayenne pep- 
 per, and twelve each ^of cumin, corian- 
 der-seed, and dried cassia-leaves. 
 
 289. A PLAIN CUEEY. 
 
 Put into a fryingpan a piece of butter, 
 a small onion cut into pieces, and two 
 cloves of garlic ; fry these until brown, 
 put the meat to the above, and add the 
 curry powder, and sufficient cold water 
 to cover the meat, and boil the whole 
 gently until the meat is cooked ; then 
 add the juice of a lemon, and a little 
 salt. 
 
 290. THE ASPIC, A JELLY. 
 
 Take a handful of aromatic herbs, 
 such as burnet, chervil, and tarragon. 
 Boil them in white vinegar ; when the 
 vinegar is well scented, pour into the 
 stewpan some consomme of fowl reduc- 
 ed; season well before you clarify. 
 When the aspic is highly seasoned, break 
 the whites of four eggs into an earthen 
 pan, and beat them with an osier rod ; 
 throw the aspic into the whites of eggs, 
 and put the whole on the fire in a stew- 
 pan; keep beating or stirring till the 
 jelly gets white ; it is then very near boil- 
 ing. Put it on the corner of the stove, 
 with a cover over it, and a little fire on 
 the top of it. When quite clear and 
 bright, strain it through a bag, or sieve, 
 or napkin, to be used when wanted. 
 
222 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 N. B. If this is wanted for a mayon- 
 aise, or as a jelly in moulds, make sure 
 of its. being stiff enough. Then put a 
 knuckle of veal in a small stock-pot, a 
 small part of a knuckle of ham, and two 
 calves' feet, some trimming of fowl or 
 game. Season this with onions, carrots, 
 and a bunch of herbs well seasoned ; 
 pour into it half a bottle of white wine, 
 and moisten with good broth ; let it boil 
 gently for four hours, then skim away 
 all the fat, and drain it through a silken 
 sieve ; put that in a stewpan, with two 
 spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, and four 
 whites of eggs, salt, and pepper, to 
 clarify ; and keep stirring it on the fire 
 till the whole becomes very white, then 
 put this on the side with a little fire 
 over the cover ; when you find it clear, 
 drain it in a cloth or jelly-bag, and use 
 it for aspic ; if not, do not put in any 
 vinegar : jelly for pie or galantine does 
 not require acid. 
 
 291. EPICUREAN SAUCE. 
 Indian soy, two ounces ; walnut and 
 mushroom ketchup, of each eight ounces ; 
 port wine, two ounces; white pepper, 
 bru^ed, half an ounce; shalots, three 
 ounces ; cayenne, a quarter of an ounce ; 
 cloves, half an ounce. Macerate for four- 
 teen days in a warm place ; strain, and 
 add sufficient white wine vinegar to make 
 exactly one pint. The above forms a 
 piquant sauce for chops, steaks, &c. For 
 fish, a little essence of anchovy, and an 
 additional quantity of vinegar, should be 
 added. 
 
 292. CARRACK OR INDIAN SAUCE FOR 
 COLD MEAT. 
 
 Two heads of garlic sliced, five spoon- 
 fuls of soy, five spoonfuls of mushroom 
 ketchup, eight spoonfuls of walnut pickle, 
 fifteen anchovies, or five spoonfuls of es- 
 sence of anchovies, three spoonfuls of 
 mango pickle, one quart of vinegar mix 
 
 in a bottle and set it in the chimney corner;' 
 shake daily for a month. It is excellent 
 without the mango. [This is an excel- 
 lent sauce, and without the mango would 
 be mild.] 
 
 293 -HOT SPICE A DELICIOUS ADJUNCT 
 TO CHOPS, STEAKS, GRAVIES, SOUPS, &c. 
 
 Three drachms each of ginger, black 
 pepper, and cinnamon ; seven cloves ; 
 mace half an ounce ; cayenne one quarter 
 of an ounce ; nutmegs one ounce ; white 
 pepper, one ounce and a half; mix. The 
 quantity of cayenne may be increased, 
 should the above not be enough to suit 
 the palate. 
 
 294. A RICH GRAYY. 
 
 Cut beef into thin slices, according to 
 the quantity wanted ; slice onions thin, 
 and flour both ; fry them of a light pale 
 brown, but do not on any account suifer 
 them to get black : put them into a stew- 
 pan, pour boiling water on the browning 
 in the frying-pan, boil it up, and pour on 
 the meat. Put to it a bunch of parsley, 
 thyme, and savory, a small bit of knotted 
 marjoram, the same of tarragon, some 
 mace, berries of allspice, whole black 
 pepper, a clove or two, and a bit of ham, 
 or gammon of bacon. Simmer till you 
 have extracted all the juices of the meat, 
 and be sure to skim the moment it boils, 
 and often after. If for a hare, or stewed 
 fish, anchovy should be added. 
 
 295. MELTED BUTTER. 
 
 Although it may be presumed that 
 every cook who understands her business 
 knows how to melt butter, it is yet con- 
 stantly brought to table either too thick 
 or too thin, and not unfrequently filled 
 with lumps of flour or in a state of oil, 
 and requires more care in the manage- 
 ment than is generally thought neces- 
 sary. 
 
SAUCES. 
 
 223 
 
 The excellence of melted butter greatly 
 depends upon the pains taken to blend it 
 with the flour before it is put upon the 
 fire, the best plan of doing which is to 
 rub them together with a knife on a 
 wooden trencher. When well mixed, 
 add two table-spoonfuls of hot water, or 
 the same quantity of milk ; put it into a 
 small pipkin, shaking it one way until it 
 boils, and not leaving it an instant ; it 
 must boil a minute to take off the raw- 
 ness, and if made of fresh Gutter add a 
 little salt. Remember that if you set 
 it on the hot coals, or over the fire, it 
 will be oily ; if the butter and flour be 
 not well mixed, it will be lumpy ; and 
 if you put too much water, it will be thin 
 and poor. By attending to these direc- 
 tions, and only using sufficient flour to 
 prevent the butter from oiling, it will 
 be rich and smooth. 
 
 Or: Mix together by degrees two 
 spoonfuls of flour in cold water ; make it 
 smooth and thin ; then put on a pint of 
 water, let it boil, stir in the flour and 
 water to make the required thickness, 
 cut half a pound of fresh butter in smal 
 pieces, put it into the flour and water 
 let it boil well ; it is then fit for use; a 
 pinch of salt may be required. 
 
 When thin melted, butter is required t< 
 pour over puddings, roast veal, &c., mak< 
 it the same way, adding a larger propor 
 tion of water or milk, the latter render 
 ing it rather whiter than the water ; an 
 if meant to be more rich than common 
 use cream instead of milk. Indeed th 
 French frequently enrich melted butte 
 by adding the yolk of a raw egg. 
 
 296. MAlTKE D'H6TEL BUTTEE. 
 
 Put one-fourth of a pound of fresh butte 
 upon a plate, the juice of two lemons, an 
 two large table-spoonfuls of chopped pars 
 ley, half a teaspoonful of salt, and hal 
 that quantity of white pepper ; mix a 
 well together, and keep in a cool place fo 
 use. 
 
 297. TO BEOWN MELTED BUTTEE. 
 Put a lump of butter into a frying-pan, 
 nd toss it round over the fire until it 
 ecomes brown ; then dredge some flour 
 ver it, which has been also browned by 
 utting it either in the oven or before the 
 fire, and stir it round with a spoon until 
 tie butter boils. 
 
 By adding some of the flavored vine- 
 ars and compound sauces to melted but- 
 er thus prepared, most of the fish-sauces 
 an be made, and many of those in com- 
 non use are composed in this simple 
 manner. 
 
 298. PAESLEY AND BUTTEE. 
 
 Scald a large handful of parsley in 
 boiling water that has some salt in it ; 
 when tender chop it fine, and stir it into 
 some rather thick melted butter. There 
 should be sufficient parsley to make the 
 auce green, and the parsley should not 
 be put to the melted butter until about 
 to be served, otherwise it will burn 
 brown. 
 
 299. FENNEL SAUCE. 
 
 Proceed as for parsley and butter. 
 
 The first is used for the various pur- 
 poses of fish, poultry, and fresh boiled 
 meats ; fennel mostly for mackerel. 
 
 300. CAPEE SAUCE, WHITE. 
 Put whole capers into melted butter, 
 adding a little of the vinegar they are 
 pickled in, a pinch of salt, and sufficient 
 cream to make it white. This is used 
 principally for boiled mutton. 
 
 801.CAPEE SAUCE, BEOWN. 
 
 Take some thick brown sauce, adding 
 the vinegar the capers are pickled in; 
 season it highly with cayenne and salt. 
 Put capers to the sauce just before serv- 
 ing ; and they must be used liberally. 
 
 Nasturtium buds or seeds are some- 
 times used as a substitute. 
 
224 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 802. EGG SAUCE. 
 
 Boil the eggs hard, cut them in small 
 dice, and put the pieces into melted but- 
 ter. The yolk may however be crushed 
 to a powder, and used to thicken the 
 butter. Or, if a more savory sauce is re- 
 quired, boil two eggs hard, mince them 
 very fine, add a third portion of grated 
 ham or tongue, a very little white pepper, 
 and the juice of a lemon ; warm it up in 
 melted butter. It is chiefly used for 
 roast fowl and salt codfish ; and if the 
 butter fee sound, the salted will be found 
 quite as good for all these purposes as 
 the fresh. 
 
 803.-SAUCES FOE EOAST BEEF OK 
 MUTTON. 
 
 Grate horseradish on a bread-grater 
 into a basin, then add two table-spoonfuls 
 of cream with a little mustard and salt ; 
 mix them well together ; then add four 
 table-spoonfuls of the best vinegar, and 
 mix the whole thoroughly. The vinegar 
 and cream are both to be cold. This is 
 a very fine sauce ; it may be served in a 
 small tureen. 
 
 Or : Scrape the horseradish thin and 
 chop it small, or grate it, which is better ; 
 warm it in melted butter, adding a spoon- 
 ful of mushroom ketchup, and one of 
 walnut, or the vinegar from walnut 
 pickle. 
 
 Or: Scrape very fine or grate the 
 horseradish ; add a little made mustard, 
 and two spoonfuls o*f pounded white 
 sugar to four of vinegar : mix the whole 
 well together, and place it under the 
 meat, when nearly done, to catch the 
 gravy which drops from it while roast- 
 ing. This sauce should be very thick. 
 
 804 HOKSEEADISn SAUCE, 
 Two teaspoonfuls of mustard, two of 
 white sugar, half a one of salt, and a 
 little more than a wineglass of vinegar 
 
 mixed and poured over a stock of grated 
 horseradish. This sauce is good for 
 beef. 
 
 805.- QUEEN MAST'S SAUCE. 
 Take a shoulder of mutton that has 
 hung till it is tender. When three parts 
 roasted, put a soup-plate under it, with 
 three spoonfuls of hot water, the same 
 of port wine, a shalot, an anchovy 
 chopped fine, and a little pepper ; baste 
 the meat with this and the gravy that 
 drops from it. When the mutton is 
 taken up, turn the inside upwards, score 
 it various ways, pour the gravy over, 
 and cover it with a quantity of fried 
 crumbs of bread. 
 
 806. MANDEAM, 
 
 Is a sauce commonly used in the West 
 Indies with roast beef and mutton. It 
 is made with a sliced cucumber, a chop- 
 ped shalot, and a minced green capsicum, 
 mixed up in a couple of table-spoonfuls 
 of Madeira wine and vinegar; and as 
 capsicums can be had green during great 
 part of the autumn, it can be also made 
 elsewhere ; but neither chilis nor capsi- 
 cums, if dried, will impart the same 
 flavor. 
 
 807. MINT SAUCE, FOE EOAST LAMB. 
 
 Pick the leaves off the stalks ; wash 
 and dry them carefully ; chop them with 
 a sharp knife very quickly to preserve 
 their green color ; put it into a boat ; add 
 sufficient vinegar to make it liquid, and 
 powdered sugar to take off the acidity 
 of the vinegar. 
 
 808. MUSHEOOM SAUCE. 
 
 White. Put the mushrooms into a 
 stewpan with one ounce of butter, some 
 pepper and salt, and squeeze over them 
 the juice of half a lemon ; set them over 
 the fire ; when they have given out their 
 liquor, thicken it with flour and butter, 
 
SAUCES. 
 
 225 
 
 and add sufficient cream to whiten the 
 sauce. This is a very excellent sauce 
 for fowls, rabbits, and all sorts of white 
 fricassees. 
 
 Or : Wash and pick a pint of young 
 mushrooms, and rub them with salt, to 
 take off the tender skin ; put them into 
 a saucepan with a little salt, some nut- 
 meg, a blade of mace, a pint of cream, 
 and a good piece of butter rubbed in 
 flour. Boil them up, and stir them till 
 done ; then pour it round the chickens, 
 &c. Garnish with lemon. If you can- 
 not get fresh mushrooms, use pickled 
 ones, done white, with a little mushroom- 
 powder with the cream. 
 
 Brown. It may also be made brown 
 by either putting the buttons into a pip- 
 kin, and frying them with a little butter 
 until they become of a delicate brown, 
 and then stewing them in strong gravy 
 of either beef or veal ; or by making it 
 of old mushrooms chopped small, fried 
 and stewed in the same manner, and 
 then seasoned according to taste. It is 
 much used for cutlets and many sorts of 
 ragouts. 
 
 809. CELEET SAUCE. 
 
 Strip the outer parts of the stem, and, 
 after carefully washing the remaining 
 portion, cut it into small pieces ; put to 
 it a blade of mace, without any other 
 spice, and stew it in good veal broth 
 until very tender ; it will take a good 
 deal of time, more particularly the thick 
 hard end of the root. After this thicken 
 it with melted butter, and flavor it with 
 a small quantity of white wine ; or it 
 may be thickened with boiled cream 
 without wine. It is usually served with 
 boiled turkey, but is very delicate with 
 any kind of white poultry or veal. 
 
 810. ONION SAUCE. 
 
 The onions must be peeled, and then 
 boiled till they are tender, then squeeze 
 
 the water from them, chop them, and 
 add butter that has been melted, rich 
 and smooth, with a little good milk in- 
 stead of water ; give it one boil, serve it 
 with boiled rabbits, partridges, scrag or 
 knuckle of veal, or roast mutton ; a 
 turnip boiled with the onions draws out 
 the strength. * 
 
 811.-ONION SAUCE, BEOWN. 
 
 Peel and dice the onions ; some put 
 an equal quantity of cucumber and of 
 celery, into a quart stewpan, with an 
 ounce of butter ; set it over a slow fire, 
 and turn the onion about till it is slight- 
 ly browned, then gradually stir in half 
 an ounce of flour, add a little broth, 
 and a little pepper and salt, boil up for 
 a few minutes ; add a table-spoonful of 
 claret, or port wine, and mushroom- 
 ketchup ; 'you may add, if you think 
 proper, lemon-juice or vinegar, and rub 
 it through a tammy or fine sieve. 
 
 312.-OTSTEE SAUCE. 
 
 In opening the oysters, savo. the liquor, 
 and boil it with the beards, a bit of mace, 
 and lemon-peel ; in the mean time throw 
 the oysters into cold water, and drain it 
 off; strain the liquor, and put it into a 
 saucepan with the oysters just drained 
 from the cold water, with sufficient quan- 
 tity of butter, mixed with as much milk 
 as will make enough sauce, but first rub 
 a little flour with it ; set them over the 
 fire, and stir all the while, and when the 
 butter has boiled a few times, take them 
 off, and keep them close to the fire, but 
 not upon it, for if too much done, the 
 oysters will bscorae hard ; add a squeeze 
 of lemon-juice, and serve ; a little is a 
 great improvement. 
 
 813. SAUCE, HAEEVT. 
 Chop twelve anchovies, bone and all, 
 very small, with one ounce of cayenne 
 pepper, six spoonfuls of soy, six ditto of 
 
226 
 
 THE PEACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 good walnut pickle, three heads of garlic 
 chopped not very small, a quarter of an 
 ounce of cochineal, two heads of shalots 
 chopped rather large, one gallon of vine- 
 gar ; let it stand fourteen days, stir it 
 well twice or thrice every day, then pass 
 it through a jelly bag, and repeat this till 
 it is quite clear ; then bottle it, and tie a 
 bidder over the cork. 
 
 814. SAUCE (Italian) FOE SALADS. 
 
 Mix together three table-spoonfuls of 
 sauce tournee, one of mustard, some tar- 
 ragon and chervil shred small, with three 
 table-spoonfuls of Florence oil ; putting 
 in, however, a little at a time ; when per- 
 fectly smooth, add also, by degrees, a glass 
 of tarragon vinegar, and a little salt. 
 This sauce cannot be too much mixed. 
 
 815. TARRAGON SAUCE. 
 
 Put two table-spoonfuls of tarragon 
 vinegar into a saucepan, and .reduce it to 
 half the quantity, then put to it six 
 spoonfuls of good butter sauce and mix 
 all well together, and if not sufficiently 
 strong put to it a little bit of glaze, and 
 a very little more tarragon vinegar. 
 
 816. -TOMATO SAUCE. 
 
 Fresh tomatoes ; take out stalk, press 
 them all tightly down in a stewpan, 
 cover them, put them on the fire, strain 
 off the liquor that is drawn from them, 
 add to the tomatoes a slice of raw ham. 
 two shalots, a few spoonfuls of good 
 stock ; let it stew for an hour, then rub it 
 through a tammy sieve. Have in an- 
 other stewpan a little good brown sauce, 
 put your tomato into it, boil all together, 
 season with cayenne, salt, sugar, and 
 lemon-juice. 
 
 817. ORANGE GRAVY SAUCE. 
 
 Put half a pint of veal gravy into a 
 saucepan, add to it half a dozen basil 
 leaves, a small onion, a roll of orange or 
 lemon-peel, and let it boil for a few min- 
 
 utes, and strain it off; put to the clear gra- 
 vy, the juice of a Seville orange or lemon, 
 half a teaspoonful of salt, the same quan- 
 tity of pepper, and a glass of red wine, 
 serve it hot ; shalot and .cayenne may be 
 added. 
 
 818. SAUCE 1 LA TARTARE. 
 
 Take the yolk of an egg, and drop 
 into it very slowly a table-spoonful of 
 sweet oil, beating it up by degrees until 
 perfectly mixed ; add a table-spoonful of 
 vinegar, a little chopped parsley, a table- 
 spoonful of French mustard, pepper and 
 salt ; beat up the whole together : make 
 and keep the sauce in a cold place ; put 
 it into a dish, and lay the boiled fowl 
 upon it. This sauce should be beaten 
 till it resembles cream. 
 
 819.-MINT SAUCE. 
 
 Make mint vinegar by adding a very 
 little co!d vinegar to the chopped leaves, 
 with powdered sugar. 
 
 820. FENNEL SAUCE. 
 Take as many branches of green fennel 
 as you may require ; pick and wash it in 
 the same manner as parsley ; chop it very 
 small, scald and then lay it on a sieve to 
 cool ; put two spoonfuls of veloute, and 
 the same of butter sauce into a saucepan, 
 make them quite hot, take care to stir it 
 well, that they may be properly mixed ; 
 rub the fennel in a little butter, and 
 then throw it into the sauce ; mix it in 
 thoroughly, and season it with salt, pep- 
 per, and nutmeg. 
 
 821. FRESH PORK SAUCE. 
 Cut two or three good-siz^l onions 
 into slices, and fry them .ghtly, then 
 add two spoonfuls of cullis, a little 
 broth, a few mushrooms chopped, a clove 
 of garlic, vinegar, and spice ; let it boil 
 half an hour, reduce to a proper consist- 
 ence, skim and strain it. 
 
SAUCES. 
 
 227 
 
 822. GLAZE. (A French Eeceipt.) 
 Glaze is very seldom made on purpose, 
 except on particular occasions. Lay on 
 the fire a stock-pot, with plenty of veal, 
 and a small quantity of beef and ham ; 
 moisten with broth ; when stewed for a 
 proper time, skim it well. The glaze of 
 sweated broth is not so bright. Season 
 the broth with carrots and onions, a large 
 bunch of parsley, and green onions } but 
 no turnips or celery, for they give a 
 bitter taste. If you should have a grand 
 dinner, and wish to glaze of a nice co- 
 lor, put more veal into your Espagnole 
 (Spanish sauce.) The moment it comes 
 to a glaze, put part of it into a small 
 stewpan for the purpose of glazing only. 
 The most common glaze is made of rem- 
 nants of broth, the liquor of braize, or 
 fricandeaux, &c., which are to be reduced 
 on a brisk fire. If you keep your re- 
 duction too long, it will become black 
 and bitter. Always warm your glaze in 
 the hot water bath, that it may not get 
 too brown when you have a grand 
 dinner. 
 
 323. SAUCE KOBEKT. (French Eeceipt.) 
 Cut some onions into small dice, fry 
 them of a fine brown, dust them with 
 flour, and moisten them with some Span- 
 ish sauce. Skim it, that the sauce may 
 look bright ; put in a little pepper and salt 
 and just before you send up mix a spoon- 
 ful of mustard. 
 
 824. SAUCE KOBEKT. 
 Cut a few onions into dice, which pu 
 into a frying-pan with a bit of butter 
 and fry them lightly ; when nicety 
 browned, add a dessert spoonful of flour 
 a ladleful of stock, the same of vinegar 
 .some salt, and pepper ; reduce it to a 
 proper thickness, and when ready fo: 
 table stir in two dessert-spoonfuls of 
 mustard. 
 
 825. PUREE OF ONION, OR SOUBISE 
 SAUCE. 
 
 Take a dozen white onions. After 
 laving peeled and washed them, cut them 
 nto halves, take off the tops and bottoms, 
 mince them as fine as possible, and blanch 
 hem to make them taste sweeter, and 
 :ake off the green color. Then let them 
 nelt on a small stove, with a little butter. 
 Vhen they are thoroughly done, and no 
 dnd of moisture is left, mix four spoon- 
 uls of bechaxel. Season them well, 
 rub the puree through a tammy, and 
 seep the sauce hot, but without boiling. 
 You must also put a small lump of sugar 
 with the sauce if necessary. When you 
 lave the oven hot, put the onions herme- 
 tically closed in a small stewpan, and let 
 them simmer for one hour, with a small 
 bit of ham. This method gives a better 
 flavor. 
 
 826. BECHAMEL SAUCE. 
 
 Take about half a quarter of a pound 
 of butter, about three pounds of veal cut 
 into small slices, a quarter of a pound of 
 ham, some trimmings of mushrooms, two 
 small white onions, a bunch of parsley 
 and green onions ; put the whole into a 
 stewpan, and lay it on the fire till the 
 meat be made firm Then put three 
 spoonfuls of flour; moisten with some 
 boiling-hot thin cream and a ladle of 
 consomme* Keep this sauce rather .thin, 
 so that whilst you reduce it the ingre- 
 dients may have time to be stewed 
 thoroughly. Season it with a little salt, 
 and strain it through a tammy. This 
 sauce should retain no taste of flour, and 
 be very palatable. 
 
 827. DUTCH SAUCE. (French Receipt) 
 Put into a stewpan a teaspoonful of 
 flour, four spoonfuls of elder vinegar, a 
 quarter of a pound of fresh butter, the 
 yolks of five eggs, and a little salt. Put 
 it on the fire and keep continually stir- 
 ring it. When it has acquired thickness 
 
228 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 enough, work it well, that you may re- 
 fine it. If it should not be curdled, you 
 have no occasion to strain it through a 
 tammy; season well and serve it up. 
 Some people do not like elder vinegar ; 
 in that case use tarragon or plain vine- 
 gar. But odorous vinegar is far prefera- 
 ble. 
 
 82S. SAUCE BLANCHE (Or French Melted 
 Butter.) 
 
 Put into a stewpan, a quarter of a 
 pound of fresh butter, a spoonful of flour, 
 a little salt, half a gill or glass of water, 
 half a spoonful of white vinegar, and a 
 little grated nutmeg. Put it on the fire : 
 let it thicken, but do not allow it to boil, 
 for fear it should taste of the flour. 
 Serve hot. 
 
 329. -WHITE EOUX * (WHITE THICKEN- 
 ING.) (A French Receipt.) 
 
 Put a good lump of butter into a stew- 
 pan, let it melt over a slow fire, and, 
 when melted, drain the butter and take 
 out the buttermilk ; then put in the but- 
 ter two or three spoonfuls of good flour, 
 enough to make a thin paste : keep it on 
 the fire for a quarter of an hour, and 
 take care not to let it color ; pour it into 
 an earthen pan to use when wanted. 
 
 880. BEOWN THICKENING. 
 (A French Eeceipt) 
 
 Put into a stewpan a piece of butter 
 proportionate to the quantity of thick- 
 ening intended to be prepared. Melt it 
 gently ; take out the buttermilk, then 
 put flour enough to make a paste. Fry 
 it on a slow fire, and then put it again 
 over very red ashes, till it be of a nice 
 
 * This is an indispensable article in cookery, and 
 servos to thicken sauces ; the brown is for sauces of 
 the same color ; and the color must be obtained by 
 slow degrees, otherwise the flour will burn and 
 give a bitter taste, and' the sauces become spotted 
 with black. 
 
 color. Observe, this is only to be ob- 
 tained by slow degrees. When of a light 
 brown pour it into an earthen pan and 
 keep it for use. It will keep a long 
 time. 
 
 881. LEMON SAUCE, WHITE, FOE BOILED 
 FOWLS. 
 
 Put the peel of a small lemon, cut 
 very thin, into a pint of sweet, rich 
 cream, with a sprig of lemon, thyme, and 
 ten white peppercorns. Simmer it gen- 
 tly till it tastes well of tlje lemon, then 
 strain it and thicken it with a quarter of 
 a pound of butter rubbed in a dessert- 
 spoonful of flour ; boil it up ; then pour 
 the juice of the lemon strained into it, 
 stirring well ; dish the fowls, and then 
 mix a little white gravy, quite hot, with 
 the cream, but do not boil them together ; 
 add salt according to taste. 
 
 832. LEMON SAUCE FOE BOILED FOWLS. 
 
 Cut small slices of lemon into very 
 small dice, and put them into melted 
 butter, give it one boil, and pour it over 
 boiled fowls. 
 
 888.-BEEAD SAUCE. 
 
 Cut in slices the crumb of a 
 French roll, to which add a few pepper- 
 corns, one whole onion, a little salt, and 
 boiling milk enough to cover it ; let it 
 simmer gently by the side of the fire till 
 the bread soaks up the milk, add a little 
 thick cream, take out the onion, and rub 
 the whole through a sieve ; make it very 
 hot, and serve with game or fowls. 
 
 834 BECHAMEL SAUCE. 
 
 Take some veal and ham, cut them 
 into dices ; some carrots, cloves, onions, 
 laurel leaves, shalots, parsley, and seal- 
 lions, all chopped fine; pepper, grated 
 nutmeg, a little salt and butter, a little 
 veloute and consomme, reduce it to half, 
 and then put in some cream ; mix it well 
 with your sauce, boil it all together over 
 
SAUCES. 
 
 229 
 
 a quick fire, shaking it constantly for an 
 hour ; if thick enough, strain it through 
 a sieve. 
 
 885. LIVER SAUCE. 
 
 Take the livers of poultry or game, 
 chop them very small with parsley, seal- 
 lions, tarragon leaves, and shalots ; soak 
 them in a little butter over the fire, and 
 then pound them ; add cullis stock, pep- 
 per and salt. Give the whole a boil with 
 two glasses of red wine, coriander, cin- 
 namon, and sugar ; reduce and strain it, 
 thicken with a bit of butter rolled in 
 flour ; serve it in a sauce-boat. 
 
 336. LIVEE SAUCE FOE BOILED 
 CHICKENS. 
 
 Boil the livers till you can bruise them 
 with the back of a spoon ; mix them in 
 a little of the liquor they were boiled in, 
 melt some butter very smooth and put 
 to them ;" add a little grated lemon-peel, 
 and boil up altogether. 
 
 337. TEUFFLE SAUCE. 
 Take a pound of truffles ; brush and 
 wash them carefully ; put them in a 
 stewpan with some good gravy, two wine- 
 glasses of white wine, a small onion, a 
 faggot of parsley and thyme, and an ounce 
 of bacon fat. Let them stew gently un- 
 til quite tender; take them out, strain 
 and skim the gravy, thicken it with roux 
 or a lump of flour and butter ; peel the 
 truffles, cut them in slices as thick as a 
 penny-piece, warm them in the sauce, and 
 serve. 
 
 338. CHESTNUT SAUCE. 
 Scald a score of chestnuts in hot water 
 for ten minutes ; skin them ; let them 
 stew gently for about half an hour in 
 some good ^gravy seasoned with a glass 
 of white wine, a little white pepper, salt, 
 and mace or nutmeg; and when quite 
 soft, serve them in the dish. 
 15 
 
 Or /Pulp them through a colander 
 to thicken the gravy, making it either 
 Irown or white, by using in the formei 
 leef-gravy, and in the latter veal-brot^ 
 with pounded almonds, and without 
 pepper. 
 
 Either of these is equally fit for sauce 
 to guinea-bird or turkey, as well as for 
 stuffing the body of the bird. 
 
 1 839. SAUCES FOE WHITE POULTEY. 
 BOILED. 
 
 Liver-sauce. Take the livers of as many 
 fowls as may be required for the intend- 
 ed quantity of sauce, or, that of a rabbit 
 being much larger, take one liver, boil it 
 with some sprigs of thyme and parsley ? 
 dissolve in the water, after taking it out, 
 two anchovies, boned; boil two eggs 
 hard, leave out one white, and shred the 
 rest with the liver, herbs, and anchovies ; 
 pound them together in a mortar, adding 
 a saltspoonful of grated lemon-peel and a 
 little pepper and salt. Put it into the 
 saucepan, squeeze upon it the juice of 
 half a lemon, thicken the liquor with 
 butter and a little flour, add to it the 
 pounded ingredients, and stir it until fin- 
 ished. 
 
 Or: If gravy be used instead of 
 water, and butter be omitted, the above 
 may be properly employed as an excel- 
 lent sauce for roasted rabbit, or for fall- 
 grown poultry. 
 
 340.-WHITE SAUCE. 
 
 Boil a large blade of mace, a few cloves 
 and peppercorns, in half a pint of soft 
 water, until the flavor be obtained; 
 strain it off, pat it into a saucepan with 
 four anchovies chopped fine, a quarter of 
 a pound of butter rolled in flour, and 
 half a pint of cream: boil and stir it 
 well two minutes. Put some in a tu- 
 reen, and the remainder in the dish. 
 
 841.-FOE CHICKENS. 
 
 Take the legs and necks, with a small 
 
230 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 bit of the scrag of veal or mutton ; put 
 them into a saucepan with two blades of 
 mace, a few white peppercorns, an an- 
 chovy, a head of celery sliced, a bunch of 
 sweet herbs, and a small bit of lemon- 
 peel ; boil these in a quart of water to 
 half a pint ; strain, and thicken it with 
 a quarter of a pound of butter and some 
 flour ; boil it five minutes, then put in two 
 spoonfuls of mushrooms, and, having beat- 
 en up the yolks of two eggs with a teacup- 
 ful of cream, put it into the sauce, and 
 keep shaking it one way over the fire till 
 it is nearly boiling ; then put it into a 
 sauce-tureen. 
 
 842. VEGETABLE MABEOW SAUCE. 
 
 Few sauces are more delicate as an ac- 
 companiment for young chickens, whether 
 roast or boiled, than vegetable marrow 
 when deprived of its seeds, if stewed to 
 a pulp and passed through a fine sieve, 
 so as to form it into a puree, which may 
 be then thinned either with fowl-broth 
 seasoned with mace, or with cream and 
 nutmeg. 
 
 848. SAUCES FOE EOAST FOWLS. 
 
 Stew any moderate quantity of ham, 
 veal, and mushrooms, with sweet herbs, 
 a shalot, a little allspice, and a piece of 
 butter, until all become brown ; then 
 let the whole simmer gently for a long 
 time in either weak broth or water, until 
 they form a strong gravy ; strain it. and 
 season it with any additional flavor 
 that may be given by some of the made 
 sauces. Serve hot in a sauce-tureen. 
 
 Or: Put into a small stewpan two 
 slices of ham, a clove of garlic, a laurel- 
 leaf, and sliced onion : add a little good 
 gravy, a sprig of knotted marjoram, and 
 a spoonful of tarragon vinegar ; simmer 
 slowly an hour, strain off, and put into 
 the dish or a boat. 
 
 Or: Boil some veal-gravy, pepper, 
 salt, the juice of a Seville orange and a 
 lemon, and one-quarter as much of port 
 
 wine as of gravy j and pour it into the 
 dish or a boat. 
 
 Or : If wanted in a hurry, cut a few 
 slices of calf's liver, or any kind of brown 
 meat ; fry them with a little lean bacon 
 and an onion, and, when browned, pour 
 upon them boiling water to what 
 strength you please, and strain it. 
 
 844 WHITE SAUCE. 
 
 It is seldom necessary to buy meat for 
 this favorite sauce, as the proportion of 
 that flavor is but small. The water that 
 has boiled fowls, veal, or rabbit, or a 
 little broth that may be in the house, or 
 the feet and necks of chickens, or raw 
 or dressed veal, will suffice. Stew any 
 of these with a little water, a bit of 
 lemon-peel, some sliced onion, a few 
 white peppercorns, a little pounded mace 
 or nutmeg, and a bunch of sweet herbs, 
 until the flavor be good ; then^ strain it, 
 add a little good cream, a piece of butter, 
 and a little flour : salt to your taste. A 
 squeeze of lemon may be added after the 
 sauce is taken off the fire, shaking it 
 well. Yolk of egg is often used in fric- 
 assee ; but if you have any cream it is 
 better, as the former is apt to curdle. 
 
 Or: Boil a stick of celery and a 
 bunch of parsley in a pint of milk, add- 
 ing white pepper and a little salt ; then 
 put two ounces of butter into a sauce- 
 pan, let it melt, add to it an onion sliced 
 thin, dredge in flour until it is a paste, 
 but do not allow it to become brown. 
 Strain the milk, and add it by degrees to 
 the butter and flour, stirring it very' 
 well ; then boil the whole together, stir- 
 ring all the time, and boiling it until it 
 is quite thick and smooth; pass it 
 through a fine sieve or tammy. If want- 
 ed to be very rich, let it cool a little, and 
 then add an egg previously beaten, and 
 mix very gradually ; warm it over the 
 fire, stirring it well, but do not let it 
 boil, or it will curdle. 
 
SAUCES. 
 
 231 
 
 Or : Mix a teaspoonful of flour with 
 one-quarter pound of butter, a little salt, 
 and ground white pepper ; let them be 
 well blended together with a wooden 
 spoon, then add a spoonful of vinegar, 
 and one or two of water ; mix the whole 
 together, stirring it one way over the 
 fire. 
 
 845. CULLIS. 
 
 Lay over the bottom of a stewpan as 
 much lean veal as will cover it an inch 
 thick : cover the veal with thin slices of 
 undressed gammon, two or three onions, 
 two or three bay-leaves, some sweet 
 herbs, two blades of mace, and a few 
 cloves. *Cover the stewpan, and set it 
 over a slow fire; but when the juices 
 come out, let the fire be a little quicker. 
 When the meat is of a fine brown, fill 
 the pan with good beef broth, boil and 
 skim it, then simmer an hour; add a 
 little water, mixed with as much flour as 
 will make it properly thick ; boil it half 
 an hour, and strain it. This will keep a 
 week. 
 
 846. EOUX, 
 
 White. Put two ounces of butter into 
 a stewpan over a slow fire, allow it to 
 melt, then drain off the buttermilk: 
 make it into a paste by dredging flour 
 over it, and keep it on the fire for a quar- 
 ter of an hour, taking care that it does 
 not lose its color. 
 
 Brown is made in the same manner 
 only allowed to fry of a dark color. 
 French cooks use no other kind of 
 browning. 
 
 847.-LIAISON. 
 
 To thicken or enrich White or Fish 
 Soups, use the following : Pour the soup, 
 boiling hot, on the beaten yolks of two 
 or three fresh eggs, from which the smal 
 tough substance found in it, and callec 
 "the tread," should be removed, nor 
 should the soup be suffered to boil after 
 
 the eggs are added, as it is then apt to 
 curdle. 
 
 Or : Break the yolk of an egg with 
 three spoonfuls of cream, beat them up 
 n the tureen and pour the boiling soup 
 upon it. This may be made in the same 
 proportion, and kept in a basin for other 
 dishes. 
 
 848. SAUCE FOE FEICANDEAU, OE EOAST 
 VEAL. 
 
 Boil an unwashed anchovy cut small, 
 with a cup of gravy, a glass of port wine, 
 a shalot minced, and the juice of half 
 a small lemon ; strain, and mix in the 
 dish with the -gravy of the meat. Or 
 use sorrel sauce. 
 
 849. SAUCE A LA MAlTBE D'H6TEL. 
 
 Put eight table-spoonfuls of white 
 sauce in a stewpan with four of milk ; 
 boil it five minutes, then stir in three 
 ounces of mattre d'hotel butter ; stir it 
 quickly over the fire till the butter is 
 melted, but do not let it boil. This 
 sauce should be made at r the time of 
 serving. 
 
 850. SAUCES FOE GEESE. 
 
 For a Green Goose. Take half a pint 
 of sorrel-juice, two glasses of white wine, 
 a nutmeg quartered, a cupful of fried 
 crumbs, and two lumps of sugar ; let all 
 boil together, then beat it smooth, add- 
 ing a piece of fresh butter, and serve it 
 very hot in a tureen, or in the dish with 
 the goose. It should not be made too 
 thick with the bread-crumbs; and if 
 much acid should not be approved, the 
 wine must be equal in quantity to the 
 sorrel-juice. 
 
 851. GOOSEBEEEY SAUCE. 
 
 Wash some sorrel, put it into a cloth 
 and press out the juice ; melt a piece of 
 butter with flour, using this juice instead 
 of water; let it be very thick. Scald 
 green gooseberries until very tender, and 
 
232 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 add them to the sauce. This is a fine 
 acid sauce if not spoiled with sugar. If 
 not sweetened add a little cayenne pep- 
 peiv 
 
 852. APPLE SAUCE. 
 
 Pare, core, and slice some apples ; and 
 put them in a stone jar, into a saucepan 
 of water, or on a hot hearth. If on a 
 hearth, let a spoonful or two of water be 
 put in to hinder them from burning. 
 When they are done, bruise them to a 
 mash, and put to them a piece of butter 
 the size of a nutmeg, and a little brown 
 sugar if required; but it destroys the 
 slight acid flavor of the apples, and its 
 corrective to goose and pork. 
 
 858. SAVOEY APPLE SAUCE. 
 
 Pulp the apples, and, if wanted of a 
 good color, add to them a little juice of 
 beet-root or cochineal : season with cay- 
 enne pepper, and a glass of vinegar or 
 lemon-pickle, taking care not to make it 
 too acid. This will prove a substitute 
 for^tomato qr sorrel sauce, when neither 
 can be obtained ; if for the latter, a little 
 spinach-juice will give it a color. 
 
 854. SAUCE FOE DUCKLINGS. 
 
 Take young green onions or chives ; 
 chop them very small, then put them 
 into some thick melted butter, with pep- 
 per, salt, and a spoonful of lemon-pickle ; 
 stir it well together, and, when very hot, 
 put it into the dish with the ducks upon 
 it. Should the flavor of the onions be 
 thought too strong, they may be scalded 
 previously. 
 
 Or : Mix one-quarter pint of sorrel- 
 juice, a glass of white wine, some scalded 
 gooseberries, some white sugar, and a 
 bit of butter. Boil them up and- serve 
 in a boat. 
 
 t 
 
 855. SAUCE FOE SUCKING-PIG. 
 
 Take the inside of a French roll and 
 boil it to a pulp, along with an onion and 
 
 a little salt ; chop the brains and put 
 them into a teacupful of the gravy that 
 runs from the pig ; then take as much 
 butter as will be sufficient for the sauce, 
 and put into it a goo 4 d squeeze of lemon, 
 with half a glass of white wine. 
 
 Some cooks make a stuffing for the 
 pig in nearly the same manner, only 
 making it with less butter and more 
 bread, besides sometimes seasoning it 
 with sage. 
 
 856. CUEEANT SAUCE. 
 
 Clean an ounce of currants, and boil 
 them in one-half pint of water for a few 
 minutes, pour the whole over a teacup- 
 ful of bread-crumbs; let it soak, and 
 then add a piece of butter rolled in flour, 
 four or six cloves, and a glass of port 
 wine ; beat it a little, and stir it over the 
 fire until it is quite smooth.- 
 
 85T. SAUCES FOE WILD-FOWL. (English.) 
 
 A teaspoonful of made mustard, the 
 same of essence of anchovies and red 
 pepper ; a tablespoonful of ketchup, and 
 a glass of claret. This receipt is from 
 the Palace, and comes highly recom- 
 mended. 
 
 Or : Simmer a teacupful of port wine, 
 the same quantity of good meat gravy, 
 a little shalot, a little pepper, salt, a grate 
 of nutmeg, and a bit of mace, for ten, 
 minutes : put in a bit of butter and flour, 
 give it all one boil, and pour it through 
 the birds. In general they are not stuff- 
 ed, but may be done so if liked. 
 
 Or: Mince some shalots very fine, 
 put them into a small saucepan with 
 some peppercorns, two tablespoon fuls of 
 strong, clear gravy, and the same quan- 
 tity of vinegar ; when sufficiently boiled 
 add a little salt, and strain it through a 
 sieve. It may be served either hot or 
 cold. 
 
 858. WHITE SAUCE. (Soyer's.) 
 
 Cut and chop a knuckle of veal weigh- 
 
SAUCES. 
 
 233 
 
 ing about four pounds, into large dice; 
 also half a pound of lean bacon; butter 
 the bottom of a large stewpan with a 
 quarter of a pound of butter ; add two 
 onions, a small carrot, a turnip, three 
 cloves, half a blade of mace, a bouquet of 
 a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, and six of 
 parsley ; add a gill of water ; place over 
 a sharp fire, stirring round occasionally, 
 until the bottom of the stewpan is cover- 
 ed with whitish glaze ; then fill up with 
 three quarts of water ; add a good tea- 
 spoonful of salt, and let it simmer at the 
 corner of the fire an hour and a half, 
 keeping it well skimmed ; pass it through 
 a hair sieve into a basin. In another 
 stewpan put a quarter of a pound of but- 
 ter, with which mix six ounces of flour, 
 stirring over the fire about three minutes ; 
 take oif, keep stirring until partly cold, 
 when add the stock all at once, contin- 
 ually stirring and boiling for a quar- 
 ter of an hour ; add half a pint of boil- 
 ing milk ; stir a few minutes longer, add 
 a few chopped mushrooms ; if handy, pass 
 through a hair sieve into a basin, until re- 
 quired for use, stirring it round occasion- 
 ally until cold. The above being a sim- 
 plified white sauce, will be referred to 
 very often in receipts. 
 
 859. BEOWN SAUCE. (Soyer's.) 
 Put two ounces of butter into a stew- 
 pan ; rub it over the bottom ; peel two 
 or three large onions ; cut them in thick 
 slices ; lay them on the bottom ; cut in- 
 to small pieces about two pounds of 
 knuckle of veal,* all meat, or three 
 pounds if with bone; a quarter of a 
 pound of lean bacon, cut small, two cloves, 
 a few peppercorns, a table-spoonful of 
 salt, two bay-leaves, a gill of water ; set 
 it on a brisk fire ; let it remain ten min- 
 utes, when stir it well round, subdue the 
 fire, let it remain twenty minutes longer, 
 
 * Half veal and beef can be used; or if no veal, 
 all beef. 
 
 and stir now and then until it has a nice 
 brown color; fill your pan with three 
 quarts of water ; when boiling, set it on 
 the corner of the stove, with the lid three 
 parts on the saucepan; when boiling, 
 skim fat and all ; after one hour, or one 
 hour and a half simmering, pass it through 
 a sieve into a basin. To make the thick- 
 ening or Eoitxfor it, proceed as follows : 
 Roux. Put two ounces of butter into 
 a pan, which melt on a slow fire, then 
 add three ounces of flour, stir it with a 
 wooden spoon until getting a thin deep 
 yellow color ; this in France is called Roux, 
 being very useful in cookery, and will be 
 often referred to in these receipts. This 
 process will take ten minutes, when re- 
 move from the fire for two minutes to 
 cool ; then add at once three pints and a 
 quarter of the above stock ; very quickly 
 set it on the fire to boil ; remove it to the 
 corner to simmer, and skim. It ought to 
 be entirely free from grease, and of a light 
 chestnut color. 
 
 860. DEMI-GLAZE THIN BEOWN SAUCE 
 FOE MADE DISHES. 
 
 When I have a small dinner-party, I 
 always, as I told you before, make small 
 quantities of white and brown sauce as 
 above, but this is a nice way of clarifying 
 a brown sauce without much trouble, and 
 makes it a beautiful transparent brown 
 color ; but although I have made it quite 
 a study that each entree, or made dish 
 for daily use, should make its own sauce, 
 yet I must impress upon you that this 
 sauce is the real key to cooking a good 
 and ceremonious dinner. Put a pint of 
 brown sauce, in a middle-sized stewpan ; 
 add to it half a pint of broth or consom- 
 me, put it on the stove, stir with wooden 
 spoon, let it boil as fast as possible, take 
 the scum oflf which will rise to the sur- 
 face ; reduce it until it adheres lightly to 
 the spoon, pass it through a sieve or tarn- 
 my into a basin ; stir now and then until 
 cold, to prevent a skin forming on the top ; 
 
234 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 put it by until wanted for use. It will 
 keep for a. week in winter, by adding half 
 a gUl of white broth every other day, and 
 giving it a boil ; the addition of a table- 
 spoonful of tomato sauce gives it a beau- 
 tiful color ; use where indicated. 
 
 861. THIN BKOWN SAUCE OP MUSH- 
 BOOMS. 
 
 Put twelve table-spoonfuls of thin 
 brown sauce in a small stewpan to boil, 
 then have six or eight small mushrooms, 
 well cleaned and washed, chop them fine, 
 and place in sauce, and boil for five min- 
 utes; taste if it is to your liking; the 
 addition of a little sugar is an improve- 
 ment ; a little cayenne, if liked, may be 
 introduced. The sauce is good for cutlets, 
 broiled fowl, and game, &c. 
 
 862. ESCHALOT SAUCE. 
 
 Chop fine about a good table-spoonful 
 of eschalot, place it in the corner of a 
 napkin, and pour water over ; press un- 
 til dry, and put in a small stewpan with 
 two table-spoonfuls of vinegar, one clove, 
 a little mace ; boil two minutes, add ten 
 table-spoonfuls of demi-glaze, boil a little 
 longer, add a little sugar, and serve. 
 
 863. PIQUANT OB SHARP SAUCE. 
 Put two table-spoonfuls of chopped 
 onions, or eschalots, cleaned as above, into 
 a stewpan ; put also four table-spoonfuls 
 of vinegar, and a bay-leaf, and boil ; then 
 add ten table-spoonfuls of brown sauce, 
 half a one of chopped parsley, ditto of 
 green gherkins ; boil five minutes ; skim, 
 add a little sugar, taste if well seasoned, 
 take out bay-leaf and serve. 
 
 864. TAEEAGON SAUCE. (Soyer's.) 
 Put eight table-spoonfuls of demi-glaze, 
 and four of broth, into a stewpan ; boil 
 for a few minutes ; add a table-spoonful 
 of vinegar; have ready picked twenty 
 leaves of fresh tarragon ; put in to sim- 
 
 mer two minutes, and serve with any 
 kind of poultry, but especially spring 
 chickens. 
 
 365. BKOWN CUCUMBEE SAUCE. 
 
 * Peel a small fresh cucumber ; cut it in 
 neat pieces ; put in a stewpan with a lit- 
 tle sugar ; add half an ounce of butter ; 
 set it on a slow fire ; stir it now and 
 then ; add twelve table-spoonfuls of brown 
 sauce, and eight of broth ; let it simmer 
 till tender ; skim the butter off; remove 
 the cucumber into another stewpan ; pass 
 the sauce, reduce it a little, taste it, pour 
 over, and serve. 
 
 866. MINCE HEEB SAUCE. 
 Put two table-spoonfuls of finely chop- 
 ped onions in a stewpan, and a table- 
 spoonful of oil ; place it on the fire ; stir 
 a few minutes, add ten table-spoonfuls of 
 demi-glaze, and four of broth or water ; 
 boil, skim; if too thick, and the scum 
 should not rise, add half a gill of broth 
 or water ; boil, and reduce to a proper 
 thickness, and add a table-spoonful of 
 chopped parsley ; if at hand, one of mush- 
 rooms, and season with a little cayenne ; 
 the juice of a quarter of a lemon ; serve. 
 I often introduce a little garlic in this. 
 
 867. EOBEKT SAUCE. (Soyer's.) 
 Peel and cut up two good-sized onions ; 
 put them in a stewpan with an ounce of 
 butter, till they are a nice yellow color ; 
 then add eight table-spoonfuls of demi- 
 glaze, and two of water or broth ; skim, 
 boil quickly ; when of a proper thickness 
 add a good table-spoonful of French mus- 
 tard ; season rather high ; if no French 
 mustard, use English, but it completely 
 changes the flavor, though still very pal- 
 atable. 
 
 868.-EAVIGOTE SAUCE. 
 
 Put in a stewpan one middle-sized 
 onion sliced, with a little carrot, a little 
 
SAUCES. 
 
 235 
 
 thyme, bay-leaf, one clove, a little mace, 
 a little scraped horseradish, a little but- 
 ter ; fry a few minutes, then add three 
 teaspoonfuls of vinegar, ten table-Spoon- 
 fuls of brown sauce, four of broth ; when 
 boiling, skim, add a table-spoonful of cur- 
 rant jelly ; when melted, pass all through 
 a tammy, and serve with any kind of 
 meat or poultry; with hare or venison 
 it is excellent. 
 
 869. BEOWN MUSHEOOM SAUCE. 
 Clean and cut twelve small mushrooms 
 in slices ; place them in a stewpan with 
 a little butter, salt, pepper, the juice of a 
 quarter of a lemon ; set it on a slow fire 
 for a few minutes, then add ten spoonfuls 
 of demi-glaze ; boil till they arc tender, and 
 serve. & little mushroom ketchup may 
 be introduced. 
 
 370. OEANGE SAUCE FOE GAME. 
 Peel half an orange, removing all the 
 pith ; cut it into slices, and then in fillets ; 
 put them in a gill of water to boil for 
 two minutes ; drain them on a sieve, 
 throwing the water away ; place in the 
 stewpan two spoonfuls of demi-glaze, or 
 ten of broth ; and, when boiling, add the 
 orange, a little sugar ; simmer ten min- 
 utes, skim, and serve. The juice of half 
 an orange is an improvement. This is 
 served with ducklings and water fowl: 
 those that like may add cayenne and 
 mustard. 
 
 871. GAELIC SAUCE. 
 Though many dislike the flavor of this 
 root, yet those that like it ought not tc 
 be deprived of it. Put in a stewpan ten 
 table-spoonfuls of demi-glaze, a little 
 tomato sauce, if handy ; boil it a few min- 
 utes, scrape half a clove of garlic, put it 
 in with a little sugar, and serve. 
 
 8T2. MINT SAUCE. FOE LAMB. 
 
 Take three table-spoonfuls of choppec 
 leaves of green mint, three table-spoon- 
 
 uls of brown sugar, and put into a basin, 
 with half a pint of brown vinegar ; stir 
 
 t well up, add one salt-spoonful of salt, 
 and serve. 
 
 873. LIAISON OF EGGS. 
 Break the yolks of two eggs in a ba- 
 in, with which mix six spoonfuls of milk, 
 or eight of cream ; pass it through a fine 
 sieve, and use when directed. 
 
 874. ANCHOVY BUTTEE SAUCE. 
 
 Put into a stewpan eight spoonfuls of 
 demi-glaze, or three of broth ; when boil- 
 ing, add one ounce of anchovy butter ; stir 
 continually till melted ; serve where di- 
 rected. 
 
 875.-SOYEE'S SAUCE. 
 
 Put six spoonfuls of demi-glaze into a 
 stewpan ; when hot, add four spoonfuls 
 of Soyer's Brown Sauce ; let boil, and 
 serve with either chop, steak, cutlet, poul- 
 try, or game. 
 
 876. PAPILLOTTE SAUCE. 
 
 Scrape half an ounce of fat bacon, put 
 it in a pan with four table-spoonfuls of 
 chopped onions ; stir over the fire for a few 
 minutes, then add ten table-spoonfuls of 
 brown sauce and boil ; then add a table- 
 spoonful of mushrooms chopped, one ditto 
 of parsley, a little nutmeg, a little pepper 
 and sugar, a quarter of a. clove of scraped 
 garlic; reduce till rather thickish; put 
 on dish till cold, and use it for any thing 
 you may put up " en Papillotte." 
 
 877. TOMATO SAUCE. (Soyer's.) 
 if fresh, put six in a stewpan; having 
 removed the stalk, and squeezed them hi 
 the hand to remove pips, &c., add half an 
 onion, sliced, a sprig <of thyme, a bay- 
 leaf, half an ounce of celery, one ounce 
 of ham or bacon, same of" butter, teaspoon- 
 ful of sugar, same of salt, a quarter one 
 of pepper, set on fire to stew gently j 
 
236 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 when all tender, add a table-spoonful of 
 flour, moisten with half a pint of broth, 
 boil five minutes ; add a little cayenne, 
 taste if highly seasoned, pass it through 
 sieve or tammy, put it back in stewpan, 
 until it adheres rather thick to the back 
 of the spoon, and use it for any kind of 
 meat or poultry. If preserved tomato, 
 proceed as for poivrade sauce, respecting 
 the vegetables, omitting the vinegar, and 
 adding the tomato, instead of the brown 
 sauce, with a table-spoonful of flour and 
 broth to bring it to a proper thickness ; 
 pass it through a sieve, and serve as 
 above. 
 
 878.- CURRY SAUCE. (Soyer's.) 
 
 Put into a pan four good-sized onions, 
 sliced, and two peeled apples, with a 
 quarter of a pound of butter, the same of 
 lean, ham, a blade of mace, four pepper- 
 corns, two bay-leaves, two sprigs of 
 thyme ; stir them over a moderate fire 
 until the onions become brown and ten- 
 der, then add two table-spoonfuls of the 
 best curry powder, one of vinegar, two 
 of flour, a teaspoonful of salt, one of su- 
 gar ; moisten it with a quart of broth or 
 milk, or even water, with the addition of 
 a little glaze ; boil till in a pulp, and ad- 
 hering rather thickly to the back of the 
 spoon ; pass all through -a fine sieve or 
 tammy j give it another boil for a few 
 minutes, put it in a basin, and use when 
 required. Any kind of meat, poultry, 
 and fish, or parts of game, are excellent 
 warmed in this sauce, and served with 
 well boiled and dry rice. I have kept 
 this sauce in a cool place in the winter 
 for a month, boiling it now and then. 
 The quantity of powder may be omitted, 
 and a spoonful of curry paste used, or 
 some mangoes. 
 
 879. A VEEY GOOD AND USEFUL WHITE 
 SAUCE (quite new.) 
 
 Put a quart of white sauce in a stew- 
 pan of a proper size on a fire ; stir con- 
 
 tinually until reduced to one-third ; put 
 two yolks of eggs in a basin, stir them 
 well up, add your sauce gradually, keep 
 stirring, put back in stewpan, set it to 
 boil for a few minutes longer, then add 
 one pint of boiling milk, which will 
 bring it to its proper thickness ; that is, 
 when it adheres transparently to the 
 back of a spoon ; pass through a tammy 
 into a basin, stir now and then till cold. 
 If not immediately required, and I have 
 any stock left, I use half of it with half 
 of milk. I also try this way, which is 
 very convenient ; when the yolks are m, 
 and well boiled, I put it in a large galli- 
 pot, and when cold, cover with pieces of 
 paper j it will keep good in winter for 
 two or three weeks, and above a week in 
 summer: when I want to use a. little of 
 it, I only take a spoonful or two and 
 warm it on the fire, and add enough 
 milk or white broth to bring it to a 
 proper thickness, and use when required. 
 This sauce is very smooth, and never 
 turns greasy j it lies beautifully on fowl, 
 or any white made dish j the addition of 
 a drop of cream gives it a very fine white 
 appearance. 
 
 880. ONION PUREE SAUCE. 
 Peel and cut six onions in slices ; put 
 in a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound 
 of butter, a teaspoonful of salt; one of 
 sugar, a half one of pepper ; place on a 
 slow fire to simmer till in a pulp, stir- 
 ring them now and then to prevent them 
 getting brown, then add one tablespoon- 
 ful of flour, a pint of milk, and boil till 
 a proper thickness, which should be a 
 little thicker than melted butter ; pass 
 through a tammy, warm again, and serve 
 with mutton cutlets, chops, boiled rab- 
 bits, or fowl 3 by not passing it, it will 
 do for roast mutton and boiled rabbit as 
 onion sauce. 
 
 331. PUREE OF CAULIFLOWER SAUCE. 
 
 Boil a cauliflower well in three pints 
 
SAUCES. 
 
 237 
 
 of water, in which you have previously 
 put one ounce of butter, one tablespoon- 
 ful of salt ; when done, chop it up, hav- 
 ing prepared and slowly cooked in a 
 stewpan an onion sliced, a little celery, 
 half a turnip, one ounce of ham, two of 
 butter, a little bay-leaf, mace, add then 
 the cauliflower, stir round, add a table- 
 spoonful of flour, moisten as above for 
 onions, pass, and finish the same way. 
 It may be made of Jerusalem artichoke 
 or turnip. 
 
 3S2. BEOWN SHAEP SAUCE, OE POI- 
 VEADE. (French Eeceipt.) 
 
 Put a small bit of butter, a small car- 
 rot cut into dice, a few shalots cut in the 
 same way, some parsley roots, six green 
 onions, some parsley, a few slices of ham, 
 a clove, a little thyme, the half of a bay- 
 leaf, a few grains of peppercorn and all- 
 spice, with a little mace, in a small stew- 
 pan. Let the stewpan be put on a slow 
 fire, till it begins to be of a fine brown 
 all round; then keep stirring with a 
 wooden spoon ; pour into the stewpan 
 four spoonfuls of white vinegar and a 
 small bit of sugar. Let this reduce 
 nearly to a glaze; then moisten with 
 some Spanish sauce and a little consom- 
 me, that you may be enabled to take the 
 fat off from 'the sauce ; season with cay- 
 enne and a little salt. Taste whether it 
 be salt enough, but observe that it 
 should not be too acid ; skim off the fat, 
 and strain the sauce through a tammy, 
 and serve up. When this sauce is well 
 made, not too thick, and of good color, 
 it is good with the following entrees : 
 Cotelettes Maintenon, broiled chicken, 
 broiled pigeon, fried chicken, marinades 
 of all sorts, such as calf s feet, lamb's 
 ears, trotters, calf's head, and generally 
 with every thing requiring tart sauces 
 You may add to it a little preserved to- 
 matoes, to give a good color and sharp 
 taste. 
 
 383. WHITE CUCUMBEE PUEEE. 
 
 Peel two, or one large one, cut in slices, 
 put in the stewpan with the same veg- 
 tables, &c. as for the cauliflower; when 
 tender, add a' table-spoonful of flour, four 
 gills of milk or broth, boil, finishing as 
 the cauliflower. 
 
 884.-SOEEEL SAUCE, OE PUEEE. 
 
 Wash well six handfuls of sorrel, put 
 it nearly dry into a middle-sized stewpan 
 with a little butter ; let it melt, add a ta- 
 ble-spoonful of flour, at easpoonful of salt, 
 half one of pepper ; moisten to a thick 
 puree, with milk, or broth, or cream; 
 pass it through a sieve, put it back in a 
 stewpan, warm again, add two whole 
 eggs, two ounces of butter, and stir well, 
 and serve where directed. 
 
 885. SPINAGE PUEEE. 
 
 Endive puree is often used in France, 
 
 Spice Box. 
 
 and called chicoree. This puree may be 
 made like the cauliflower, or only plain 
 boiled, plainly chopped, put into a pan 
 with two ounces of butter, a gill of white 
 sauce, a little grated nutmeg, and a little 
 salt, pepper, and sugar. 
 
 886. INDIA-PICKLE SAUCE. 
 
 Take some gravy, thicken with flour 
 and butter ; cut in small dice some In- 
 dia-pickle, add a little of the vinegar, 
 let it boil up, throw in the dice^ and 
 serve hot. This is for salmon cutlets j 
 
238 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 it is also good for broiled mackerel or 
 for grilled chicken. 
 
 88T.-SAUCE PIQUANTE. 
 
 Put into a stewpan the muscles of a 
 knuckle of veal, some slices of ham or 
 bacon, a cupful of gravy, a spoonful or 
 two of strong vinegar, a bay -leaf, a clove 
 of garlic, a little thyme, one clove, and a 
 littlo salt; skim it, and, when it has 
 stewed a quarter of an hour, pass it 
 through a sieve : then add sorrel, parsley, 
 and mushrooms, all chopped fine, and 
 whole capers ; heat it again, and serve it 
 in the dish. 
 
 Or : Put one or two ounces of but- 
 ter, with two shred onions, a carrot, a 
 parsnip, a little thyme, laurel, basil, two 
 cloves, two shalots, a clove of garlic, and 
 some parsley, into a stewpan ; turn the 
 whole over the fire till it becomes brown, 
 then shake in some flour, and moisten it 
 with some broth and a spoonful of vine- 
 gar. Let it boil over a slow fire ; skim 
 and strain it ; then add pepper and salt ; 
 and serve with any dish of which you 
 would wish to have the flavor heightened. 
 
 388. A L'ESPAGNOLE-{or Spanish Sauce.) 
 
 Besides a few slices of ham and veal, 
 put into a stewpan any remains which 
 you may have of poultry and game, and 
 let them boil for one hour in water more 
 than sufficient to cover them; after 
 which skim off the fat from the gravy, 
 add fried onions, sweet herbs, a bay-leaf, 
 spice, mace, and mushrooms, with minced 
 carrots, celery, shalots, and a small 
 clove of garlic, and leave the whole to 
 stew until quite mashed: it will take 
 full two hours. Then strain it, and if 
 the gravy be not strong enough add suf- 
 ficient coulis or glaze to make it so. If 
 it wants flavor, add soy, and if mush- 
 rooms have not been one of the ingredi- 
 ents, put in ketchup : if not thick enough, 
 a little arrowroot, or common flour, with 
 
 a piece of butter, will have the effect J 
 but if the gravy be truly rich, it will not 
 require the addition. 
 
 Such is the foundation of the sauce ; 
 but in most cases white wine is added, 
 for the purpose of stewing game : it is 
 needless to say that Madeira and sherry 
 are best, but Cape or ginger wine will 
 be found good substitutes. 
 
 889. SAUCE, 1 LA PKOVENQALE. 
 
 Put into a casserole two spoonfuls of 
 sweet oil, a shalot, a clove of garlic, and 
 some mushrooms, all minced, and placed 
 upon the fire in any sort of good strong 
 broth, seasoned with pepper and salt, to- 
 gether with pot-herbs ; leave it there for 
 half an hour ; then skim it so far as to 
 remove much of the appearance of the 
 oil ; strain ifr, and add some white wine 
 to suit the taste. 
 
 890.-SAUCE MAIGEE. 
 
 Fry a large quantity of onions and put 
 them along with the above into the casse- 
 role, with white wine, until well brown- 
 ed ; then strain it ; add a table-spoonful 
 of salad-oil with a little flour, and mix 
 it gently, but continually, for a few min- 
 utes, until completely mingled. 
 
 891. A L' HOLLAND AISE, 
 
 For meat, fowl, or fish. Put six 
 spoonfuls of water and two of _ tarragon 
 vinegar, With one ounce of butter, into 
 a stewpan ; warm and thicken it with 
 the yolks of two eggs. Make it quite 
 hot, but do not boil it ; stir it all the 
 time; squeeze in the juice of half a 
 lemon, and strain it through a sieve. 
 Season with salt and cayenne. It should 
 be quite thick. 
 
 .892. SPINACH SAUCE. 
 
 Pick off the stalks of the spinach ; 
 wash and drain it ; then, without water, 
 stew till it will beat to a mash. Put in 
 
SAUCES. 
 
 239 
 
 a good piece of butter and . some milk ; 
 simmer, and stir over a slow fire till the 
 sauce be of the consistence of thick melt- 
 ed butter. Add a little pepper and salt 
 while dressing. 
 
 893. PUEEE OF CUCUMBEES. 
 
 Slice thin some middling-sized cucum- 
 bers, drain the liquor from them, and 
 put them, with four onions, into a stew- 
 pan, with a piece of butter ; when suffi- 
 ciently stewed to pulp through a col- 
 ander, add a large teacupful of cream, a 
 little flour and pepper. Boil twenty 
 minutes and, when going to serve^ put 
 in salt. 
 
 894. SAUCE 1 LA SAINTE MENEHOULD. 
 
 Put some butter into a stewpan, shake 
 over it a little flour; add a cupful of 
 cream, parsley, young onions, one-half a 
 bay-leaf, and a shalot. Put it on the 
 fire, keeping it stirred. Then pass it 
 through a sieve : put it on the fire again 
 with some chopped parsley, a little pep- 
 per, and minced mushrooms. Serve it 
 over beiled fowls. 
 
 895. LA MAGNONNAISE. 
 
 Perhaps the most esteemed mode of 
 making sauce for any sort of cold meats 
 or fish is that known in France by this 
 title. 
 
 Put into a round-bottomed basin the 
 yolk oF an egg and a pinch 6f salt ; stir 
 in very quickly, drop by drop, two table- 
 spoonfuls of sweet oil, working the spoon 
 very rapidly round, to work in the oil ; 
 when it is thick add a few drops of tar- 
 ragon vinegar, then more oil, until there 
 is sufficient sauce ; thin it with a little 
 more vinegar. It should be quite thick, 
 and rather acid. 
 
 896. CAEACHI. 
 
 Take one head of garlic and cut each 
 clove into two pieces j two teaspoonfuls 
 
 of cayenne pepper, three tablespoonfula 
 of soy, three of mushroom ketchup, 
 three of walnut pickle, six anchovies dis- 
 solved, two or three spoonfuls of man- 
 goe or India pickle liquor, and a pint of 
 the best vinegar, with sufficient cochi- 
 neal to color. 
 
 Both the above are thus sauces mai- 
 gres, but when not intended for fast-days, 
 may be much improved by being made 
 into a puree with an admixture of melt- 
 ed calf's-foot jelly. 
 
 897. SAUCE EOYALE 
 
 Is made by cutting a slice of white 
 bread, and stewing it in white broth 
 until it is quite thick ; then take it off 
 the fire ; pound in a mortar the yolks of 
 two hard-boiled eggs, and half a dozen 
 almonds reduced to paste, with the breast 
 of a cold roast fowl ; mix this with the 
 eggs and bread, and pound them all to- 
 gether with a little pepper and salt; 
 add a sufficient quantity of cream to 
 make it of a proper consistence, and sim- 
 mer the whole over the fire, stirring it 
 all the time without letting it boil. 
 
 898.-SAUCE 1 LA EEINE 
 
 Is nearly the same. Bruise the breast 
 of a chicken to a paste, and moisten it 
 with a consomme of veal or fowl broth ; 
 let it stew gently over a slow fire, and 
 then pas* it through the tamis and mix 
 with it some bechamel sauce. Then 
 have ready the yolks of two eggs beaten 
 up with a large spoonful of thick cream, 
 and stir the mixture into the sauce a 
 minute or two before serving it up. 
 
 Both the above are served at the most 
 fashionable tables, and may be used with 
 turkey-poults and guinea-birds. 
 
 899. THE OEIGINAL OUDE SAUCE 
 Is made with two ounces of butter 
 put into a stewpan; when melted add 
 six onions shred; as soon as they begin 
 
240 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 to take color, put in one and a half dozen 
 of chilis chopped fine ; stir it well to- 
 gether for four minutes, then put in a 
 small quantity of dried salt fish, not ex- 
 ceeding two square inches, chopped very 
 fine; keep stirring, and, as the butter 
 dries, add a large cupful of the pulp of 
 fresh tomatoes, a teaspoonful of salt, the 
 juice of a lemon, and a little water ; mix 
 the whole very well together, and let it 
 be of the consistence of a paste, though 
 not too dry. It is eaten with cold meat, 
 but will not keep. 
 
 400. CHETNEY AND QTJIHI SAUCtf..- 
 
 Take eight ounces of sharp apples 
 pared and cored, eight ounces of toma- 
 toes, eight ounces of salt, eight ounces of 
 brown sugar, eight ounces of raisins, 
 four ounces of red chilis, four ounces of 
 ginger powdered, two ounces of garlic, 
 and two ounces of shalots. Pound all 
 these ingredients separately in a mortar, 
 using cayenn3 pepper if chilis are not to 
 be had. Mix the whole together, and 
 add three quarts of vinegar and one 
 quart of lemon-juice. Place the jar con- 
 taining this composition on a stove, or 
 by the side of a fire in a heat not less 
 than one hundred and thirty degrees 
 Fahrenheit, and stir it twice a-day for a 
 month ; then strain, but do not squeeze 
 it dry. Bottle the liquor, which is an 
 excellent sauce for any kind of fish or 
 meat, hot or cold. A teaspodbful 1 will 
 impart a fine flavor to any ragout, or be 
 sufficient for a pint of broth. The resi- 
 due, which is the chetney, should be 
 put into pots or jars. It may also be 
 used in sauces and gravies, or eaten like 
 mustard, with cold meat, or spread upon 
 grills, being an excellent ingredient for 
 devils, wet or dry. 
 
 401. YEAL GEAVY, OR BLOND OF 
 VEAL. (Ude.) 
 
 Put a few slices of Westmoreland ham 
 (the lean only) into a, pretty thick stew- 
 
 pan, and lay over them some fleshy pieces 
 of veal. The rump may be used. Pour 
 into the stewpan a sufficient quantity of 
 stock-broth to cover about half the thick- 
 ness of the meat. Let it sweat on a stove 
 over a brisk fire. Watch the stewpan 
 and the contents for fear of burning. 
 When the broth is reduced, thrust a 
 knife into the meat, that all the gravy 
 may run out ; then stew the glaze more 
 gently. When the whole is absolutely 
 glazed, of a good color, let it stew till 
 brown, but take care it does not burn, to 
 prevent which, put it on red-hot ashes. 
 Keep stirring the stewpan over the firer- 
 that the glaze may be all of the same 
 color, and turn the meat upside down, 
 that it may not stick, When the glaze 
 is of a dark-red color, moisten with some 
 hot broth, and let the glaze detach before 
 the stewpan is put on the fire, for it might 
 still burn. Season with mushroomg and 
 a bunch of parsley and green onions. 
 When the gravy has boiled for two hours, 
 it will be done. Take off the fat, and 
 strain it through a silken sieve. ..^ 
 
 402. THE CULLIS (a Brown Jelly.) 
 
 Make the cullis in the same manner as 
 veal gravy, with slices of ham and slices ' 
 of veal, &c. When the glaze is of a nice 
 color, moisten it, and let it stew entirely. 
 Season it with a bunch of parsley and 
 green onions, mushrooms, &c. Then mix 
 some brown thickening with Tie veal 
 gravy, but do not make it too thick, as 
 the fat could not be got out of the sauce ; 
 and a sauce with fat has neither a pleas- 
 ing appearance nor a good flavor. Let it 
 boil for an hour on the corner of the 
 stove; skim off the fat, and strain it 
 through a tammy, &c. 
 
 403. SAUCE TOURNEE.* 
 
 Take some white thickening, dilute it 
 
 * Sauce tournee is the sauce that the moder* 
 cooks call velout6 ; but veloute, properly so called 
 will be found hereafter. 
 
SAUCES. 
 
 241 
 
 with some consomme or broth of fowl ; 
 neither too thin nor too thick. A sauce 
 when too thick will never admit of the 
 fat being removed. Let it boil on the 
 corner of the stove. Throw in a few 
 mushrooms, with a bunch of parsley and 
 green onions. Skim it well, and when 
 there is no grease left, strain it through 
 a tammy, to use when wanted. 
 
 404. SAUCE 1 L' ALLEMANDE. (German 
 Sauce.) 
 
 This is the same as the last sauce, with 
 the addition of a thickening* of eggs well 
 seasoned. This sauce is always used for 
 the following sauces or ragouts, viz., 
 ""blan.quettes, or white fricassees, of all des-t 
 criptions, of veal, of fowl, of game, or pal- 
 ates, ragout, loin of veal, with bechamel, 
 &c., &c. 
 
 405. THE VELOUTE. 
 
 * Take about the same quantity of stock- 
 broth, arid sauce tournee, and boil them 
 down over a large fire. When this sauce 
 ilvery thick, have some thick cream boil- 
 ing and reduced, which pour into the 
 ' sauce, and give it a couple of boilings ; 
 season with a little salt, and strain through 
 a tammy. If the ham should be too salt, 
 put in a little sugar. Observe, that this 
 sauce is net to be so thick as the becha- 
 mel. 
 
 406. VELOUTE, OE BECHAMEL, A NEW 
 METHOD. (Ude.) 
 
 Put into a stewpan a knuckle of veal, 
 some slices of ham, four or five pounds 
 of beef, the legs and loin of a fowl ; all 
 the trimmings of meat or game that you 
 have, and moisten with boiled water suffi- 
 cient to cover half the meat; make il 
 sweat gently on a slow fire, till the meat 
 ' is done through ; this you may ascertain 
 by thrusting your knife into it ; if no 
 
 * This thickening is what is called in French, lia 
 Ison ; the yolks of two or four eggs. 
 
 )lood follows, it is time to moisten with 
 soiling water sufficient to cover all the 
 meat. Then season with a bundle of 
 Darsley and green onions, a clove, half a 
 my -leaf, thyme, a little salt, and trim- 
 mings of mushrooms. When the sauce 
 las boiled long enough to let the knuckle 
 :>e well done, skim off all the fat, strain 
 t through a silken sieve, and boil down 
 this consomme till it is nearly a glaze ; 
 next take four spoonfuls of very fine flour, 
 dilute it with three pints of very good 
 cream, in a stewpan big enough to con- 
 tain the cream, consomme, flour, &c. j 
 boil the flour and cream on a slow fire. 
 When it boils, pour in the consomme, 
 and continue to boil it on a slow fire if 
 the sauce be thick, but on the contrary, 
 if the sauce be thin, on a quick fire, in 
 order to thicken it. Season with salt, 
 but put no pepper. No white sauce ad- 
 mits pepper, except when you introduce 
 into it something chopped fine. Pepper 
 appears like dust, and should therefore 
 be avoided. This sauce should be very 
 thick. Put it into a white basin through 
 a tammy, and keep it in the larder out of 
 the dust. 
 
 This sauce is the foundation, if I may 
 so speak, of all sorts of little sauces, 
 where white sauces are preferred. It 
 should always be kept very thick, as you 
 can thin it whenever you please, either 
 with stock-broth or with cream. If too 
 thin, it could not be used for so many 
 purposes. 
 
 40T. CAPEK SAUCE 1 LA FRANQAISE. 
 
 Take some capers, cut them small, put 
 some essence of ham into a small sauce- 
 pan with some pepper ; let it boil ; then 
 put in the capers ; let them boil two or 
 three times, and they are ready to serve. 
 
 40S.-CAPER SAUCE, TO IMITATE. 
 
 Boil some parsley very slowly to let 
 it become of a bad color ; then cut it up, 
 
242 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 but do not chop it fine ; put it into melt- 
 ed butter, with a teaspoonful of salt, 
 and a dessert-spoonful of vinegar; boil 
 up, and then serve. 
 
 409. CAPEE SAUCE FOE MEAT. 
 
 Take some capers, chop half of them 
 very fine, and put the rest in whole ; 
 then chop some parsley with a little 
 grated bread, and put to it some salt ; 
 put them into butter melted very smooth, 
 let them boil up, and then pour them 
 into a sauce-boat. 
 
 410. TOMATO SAUCE FEANgAISE. 
 
 Cut ten tomatoes into quarters and 
 put them into a saucepan with four on- 
 ions sliced, a little parsley, thyme, one 
 clove, and a quarter of a pound of but- 
 ter ; set the saucepan on the fire, stirring 
 occasionally, for three-quarters of an 
 hour ; strain the sauce through a horse- 
 hair sieve, and serve with the directed 
 articles. 
 
 411.-TOMATOES, GAENITUEE OF. 
 
 Take thirty tomatoes, all as near of a 
 size as possible, and of a good form, cut 
 them in halves, press out the juice, seeds, 
 and pieces by the side of the stalk, but 
 do it with great care, lest the skins 
 should be injured ; make a farce as fol- 
 lows : take a little ham, garlic, parsley, 
 shalots, champignons shred, the yolks of 
 two hard boiled eggs, crumb of bread, 
 an anchovy, butter, salt, nutmeg, and all- 
 spice ; give all these a boil, then pound 
 them well, adding at times a little oil, 
 strain it through a quenelle sieve; fill 
 the tomatoes with this farce, place them 
 on a baking tin, cover them with grated 
 bread crumbs and Parmesan cheese, 
 moisten them with a little oil, and bake 
 them in a hot oven ; serve the tomatoes 
 as a garnish to a rump of beef, or any 
 other joint you may think proper. 
 
 412. TOMATO SAUCE 1 L'lTALlENNE. 
 
 Take five or six onions, slice, and put 
 them into a saucepan with a little thyme, 
 bay-leaf, twelve tomatoes, a bit of but- 
 ter, salt, half a dozen allspice, a little 
 Indian saffron, and a glass of stock ; set 
 them on the fire, taking care to stir it 
 frequently, as it is apt to stick ; when 
 you perceive the sauce is thick strain it 
 Like a puree. 
 
 KETCHUPS. 
 
 413. MUSHEOOM KETCHUP. 
 
 Take the full grown flaps of mush- 
 rooms, wipe them clean, crnsh them with 
 the hands, throw in a handful of salt with 
 every peck of mushrooms, and let them 
 stand all night; then put them into 
 stewpans, and set them in a quick oven 
 for twelve hours ; strain them through a 
 hair sieve and press out all the juice. 
 To every gallon of liquor put of cloves, 
 Jamaica and black pepper, and of ginger, 
 one ounce each, and half a pound of 
 common salt. Set it on a slow fire and 
 let it boil until half the liquor is wasted, 
 then put it into a clean china vessel, and 
 when cold bottle it. 
 
 Another mode of making mushroom 
 ketchup, is to take a stewpan full of the 
 large flap mushrooms that are not worm 
 eaten, and the skins and fringe of those 
 you have pickled ; throw a handful of 
 salt among them, and set them by a slow 
 fire. They will produce a great deal of 
 liquor, which you must strain, and put 
 to it four ounces of shalots, two cloves 
 of garlic, an ounce of pepper, a table- 
 spoonful of ginger, mace, and cloves; 
 boil the liquor slowly and skim it well. 
 When cold, bottle and cork it close. In 
 two months boil it again with a little 
 additional spice, and a stick of horse- 
 radish, it will then keep a year ; which 
 mushroom ketchup rarely does, if not 
 boiled a second time. 
 
KETCHUPS. 
 
 243 
 
 414.-WALNUT KETCHUP. 
 
 Take six half-sieves of green walnut- 
 shells, put them into a tub, mix them up 
 well with common salt, (from two to 
 three pounds,) let them stand for six 
 days, frequently beating and mashing 
 them ; by this time the shells become 
 soft and pulpy. Then by banking it up 
 on one side of the tub, and at the same 
 time by raising the tub on that side, the 
 liquor will drain clear off to the other ; 
 then take that liquor out ; the mashing 
 and banking up may be repeated as often 
 as liquor is found. The quantity will be 
 about six quarts. When done let it be 
 simmered in an iron boiler as long as any 
 scum, arises ; then bruise a quarter of a 
 pound of ginger, a quarter of a pound of 
 allspice, two ounces of long pepper, two 
 ounces of cloves, with the above ingredi- 
 ents ; let it .slowly boil for half an hour. 
 When boiled, let an equal quantity of 
 the spice go into each bottle ; when cork- 
 ed, let the bottle be filled quite up ; cork 
 them tight, seal them over, and put them 
 into a cool and dry place for one year 
 before they are used. 
 
 415. TOMATO KETCHUP. 
 
 Take six pounds of tomatoes, sprinkle 
 them with salt and let them remain for 
 a day or two, then boil them until the 
 skins will separate easily; pour them 
 into a colander or coarse sieve, and press 
 them through, leaving the skins behind ; 
 put into the liquor a pint of Chili vinegar, 
 half a pint of wine, pepper, cloves, ginger 
 and allspice ; boil them together until a 
 third part has wasted bottle them tight. 
 The ketchup must be shaken before it is 
 used. If it is boiled down to one-third, 
 and the corks sealed, it will be much 
 richer, and keep for years. 
 
 416. SAUCE FOE CHOPS AND STEAKS. 
 
 Pound together in a mortar one ounce 
 of black pepper, half an ounce of allspice, 
 one ounce of salt, half an ounce of horse- 
 
 radish scraped, half an ounce of eschalots. 
 Pour on this half a pint of mushroom ket- 
 chup, and half a pint of walnut pickle. 
 Infuse for a fortnight, and strain for use. 
 
 41T.-NASTUETIAN SAUCE 
 
 Is eaten with boiled mutton. It is 
 made with the green seeds of nasturtians, 
 pickled simply in cold vinegar. Cut about 
 six ounces of butter into small bits, and 
 put them into a small saucepan. Mix 
 with a wine-glass of water sufficient flour 
 to make a thick batter, pour it on the 
 butter, and hold the saucepan over hot 
 coals, shaking it quickly round, till the 
 butter is melted. Let it just boil up, and 
 then take it from the fire. Thicken it 
 with the pickled nasturtians, and send it 
 to table in a boat. 
 
 418.-CEANBEEEY SAUCE. 
 
 This sauce is very simply made. A 
 quart of cranberries is washed and stew- 
 ed with sufficient water to cover them ; 
 when they burst mix with them a pound 
 of brown sugar, and stir them well. Be- 
 fore you remove them from the fire, all 
 the berries should have burst. When 
 cold they will be jellied, and if thrown into 
 a form while warm, will turn out whole. 
 
 419.-CELEET SAUCE. 
 
 Wash and pare a bunch of celery, cut 
 it into pieces, and boil it gently until it 
 is tender ; add half a pint of cream, and 
 a small piece of butter rolled in flour; 
 now boil it gently. This is a good sauce 
 for fowls of all kinds, either roasted or 
 boiled. 
 
 FAECES AM) STUFFINGS. 
 
 420. -PANADA. 
 
 Put into a small stewpan one ounce of 
 fresh butter, a table-spoonful of chopped 
 mushrooms, a little chopped thyme and 
 
244: 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 parsley, half a blade of mace, pepper and 
 salt ; stew the whole over the fire for a few 
 minutes, then add to it a spoonful of white 
 broth, the crumb of two Drench rolls 
 previously soaked in milk and squeezed 
 thoroughly dry ; stir over the fire until 
 it no longer adheres to the stewpan; 
 take it off, add the yolks of two eggs, 
 turn it out and leave it to cool j it is then 
 ready for use. 
 
 421.-UDDER. 
 
 Boil a calf s udder in broth or water ; 
 when cold trim off the outside : pound 
 and rub through a sieve. 
 
 422.-QUENELLE. 
 
 This is one of the most delicate prepa- 
 rations of forcemeat that we have, and 
 requires practice, care and attention to 
 make it in perfection. It is called accord- 
 ing to the meat of which it is composed ; 
 quenelles of rabbit, chicken, fish, or game. 
 
 Take the meat of two rabbits, pound it 
 and rub it through a sieve ; take the same 
 quantity of panada, and also of udder or 
 very sweet fresh butter, pound these in- 
 gredients for a quarter of an hour, add a 
 table-spoonful of white sauce, two eggs, 
 and two yolks ; take a small piece, roll 
 it in a ball, and throw it in boiling water ; 
 when done it should cut firm and consist- 
 ent, yet light and delicate ; if more sea- 
 soning is required it should be added be- 
 fore H is taken out of the mortar. 
 
 To mould them : have two table-spoons, 
 fill one with the farce, shape with a knife, 
 dipping it in boiling water to make it 
 perfectly smooth ; dip the other spoon in 
 hot water, with which take out the que- 
 nelle and lay it in a buttered stewpan ; 
 they should be egg-shaped, and perfectly 
 smooth, and boiled for a quarter of an 
 hour. 
 
 428. PANADA FOE FISH QUENELLE, OE 
 FOECEMEAT. 
 
 Put two-thirds of half a pint of water 
 
 into a stewpan holding a quart, with 
 nearly one ounce of butter ; when boiling, 
 stir in a quarter of a pound of flour ; keep 
 it moving over the fire until it forms a 
 smooth and tough paste. Take it off the 
 fire, add the yolks of three eggs. When 
 cold, use it where directed. 
 
 424. FOECEMEAT. 
 
 Take equal quantities of cold chicken, 
 veal, and beef, shred very small, and 
 mixed together ; season, at the same time, 
 with a moderate quantity of pepper, salt, 
 sweet herbs, and grated nutmeg that is 
 to say, if intended for white meat, or for 
 any thing delicately flavored ; but if meant 
 for a savory dish, add a little mpced 
 ham, and an atom of garlic or a shalot. 
 Put the whole in a stone mortar, and 
 pound it until quite fine, then make it 
 into a paste with a raw egg, some butter, 
 marrow, or fat of some kind. When 
 used, it may either be rolled into round 
 balls and fried for any made dish, or put 
 into any joint of meat or poultry as stuf- 
 fing ; and if kept in a cool place, and well 
 seasoned, it will keep goocl for several 
 
 Indeed, ~by mixing with any potted meat 
 or game an equal proportion of panada, 
 which will always be lighter than bread- 
 crumbs, the cook will have at once a very 
 fine species of farce, to be employed in 
 stuffing olives, fillets of fowl, &c. 
 
 The " farce " is sometimes a delicious 
 preparation of sausage-meat, and is served 
 up alone ; but it enters into the composi- 
 tion of numerous other dishes. 
 
 425. ANOTHEE FOECEMEAT. 
 
 Take a pound and a half of lean veal, 
 pound it, and pass it through a sieve ; 
 one pound of chopped bsef suet, and six 
 ounces of panada, pounded well together ; 
 add the veal, season with pepper, salt, 
 and a little nutmeg ; mix well ; then add 
 the yolks of six eggs and the whites of 
 
FARCES AND STUFFINGS. 
 
 245 
 
 three ; when these are thoroughly mixed, 
 whisk the other three whites of eggs to a 
 very stiff froth, and add it to the force- 
 meat ; when all is well mixed together, it 
 is fit for use. 
 
 426. FAKCE CUITE. 
 
 Cut in small pieces some undressed 
 fowl ; put them into a stewpan with a piece 
 of butter, a little salt, pepper, and a little 
 nutmeg ; shake them over the- fire for ten 
 minutes, drain, and let them cool. Put 
 an equal portion of crumbs of bread in 
 the same stewpan with some broth, and 
 a little parsley chopped fine ; stir it with 
 a wooden spoon till it becomes quite soft. 
 Let it get cold, then pound the fowl until 
 it will pass through a tamis ; pound the 
 bread also, and put it through the sieve ; 
 then put equal parts of the meat, butter, 
 and bread together, and pound them with 
 yolks of eggs sufficient to make it into a 
 proper consistence, and keep it in a jar 
 for use. 
 
 427. FAECE OF HAM AND VEAL. 
 
 Mince equal quantities of ham and veal. 
 a bunch of parsley, and some pepper; 
 put it on the fire with a little broth ; let 
 it stew very gently, then pound it in a 
 mortfir; add to it an equal portion of 
 bread soaked in milk and pounded ; pound 
 the whole together with some butter, and 
 mix it with the yolks of eggs. 
 
 Bacon and veal which have been used 
 in braising, or any thing highly impreg- 
 nated with the flavor of herbs and onions, 
 and very rich, may be employed after- 
 wards as a farce, pounded and mixed 
 with panada.* 
 
 428. STUFFING. 
 
 Take equal quantities of beef suet and 
 crumbs of bread; chop the suet very 
 finely; chop together marjoram, thyme, 
 and parsley, having as much parsley as 
 
 * Farce for pies. 
 
 16 
 
 there is thyme and marjoram together ; 
 add to them a salt-spoonfui of grated 
 lemon peel, pepper, salt, and a little 
 grated nutmeg; add eggs sufficient to 
 bind it together. 
 
 429. SEASONING FOE STUFFING. 
 One pound of salt dried and sifted, half 
 an ounce of ground white pepper, two 
 ounces of dried thyme, one ounce of dried 
 marjoram, and one ounce of nutmeg. 
 When this seasoning is used, parsley 
 only is required to be chopped in suffi- 
 cient quantity to make the stuffing green. 
 The proportions are half a pound of 
 bread-crumbs, three eggs, a quarter of a 
 pound of suet, half an ounce of season- 
 ing, and peel of half a lemon grated. 
 
 480. FOECEMEAT. 
 
 Shred a little ham or gammon, some 
 cold veal or fowl, some beef suet, a small 
 quantity of onion, some parsley, very 
 little lemon-peel, salt, nutmeg, or pounded 
 mace, and either white pepper or cayenne, 
 and bread crumbs. Pound it in a mor- 
 tar, and bind it with one or two eggs, 
 beaten or strained. Fo*r forcemeat pat- 
 ties, the mixture as above. 
 
 431.-FOE HAEE, OE ANY THING IN IMI- 
 TATION OF IT. 
 
 The scalded liver, an anchovy, some 
 fat bacon, a little suet, some parsley, 
 thyme, knotted marjoram, a little shalot, 
 and either onion or chives, all chopped 
 fine ; crumbs of bread, pepper, and nut- 
 meg, beat in a mortar with an egg. 
 
 432. FISH FOECEMEAT. 
 
 Chop, and afterwards pound in a mor- 
 tar, any kind of fish, adding an anchovy 
 or two, or a tea-spoonful of the essence 
 of anchovies, but do not allow the taste 
 to prevail, and the yolk of a hard-boiled 
 egg. If for maigre^ pound butter with 
 it ; but otherwise, the fat of bacon pound- 
 ed separately, and then mixed. Add a 
 
246 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 third portion of bread, prepared by soak- 
 ing and pounding previously, and mix 
 the whole up with raw eggs. For mack- 
 erel, pike, haddock, and soles, take the 
 veal forcemeat, add a little anchovy es- 
 sence, and use rather less herbs. 
 
 438. OYSTER FOECEMEAT. 
 Take a dozen oysters, strain them from 
 the liquor, mince them, and add a quarter 
 of a pound of finely grated bread-crumbs, 
 one ounce and a half of butter broken 
 very small, a dessert-spoonful of parsley, 
 the grated rind of half a lemon ; season 
 with a little mace, cayenne, and salt; 
 mix well; then bind together with the 
 yolk of an egg unbeaten, and a little of 
 the oyster liquor. Care must be taken 
 that the oyster flavor predominates. 
 
 484 FOKCEMEAT BALLS FOE SOUP 
 MAIGEE. 
 
 Forcemeat balls for maigre soups of 
 any description should be always used to 
 compensate for the savor of which they 
 are deprived by the want of meat-broth ; 
 and may be made of fish and sweet herbs, 
 or only of herbsand crumbs of bread, in 
 the following manner : 
 
 Pound in a mortar the soft parts of a 
 crawfish, or a few shrimps, with an an- 
 chovy, and the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, 
 beaten up with crumbs of stale bread, 
 pounded mace, cayenne pepper, salt, and 
 a very little finely minced garlic. Then 
 work it up into a paste with a raw egg to 
 bind it into dough ; roll it out, cut it into 
 small balls of the size of marbles, and 
 fry them of a fine brown. ' 
 
 Or: Leave out the fish, and make 
 them entirely of bread and savory chop- 
 ped herbs chervil, tarragon, marjoram, 
 and thyme, with a little garlic and a 
 shalot and bind them up as above, with 
 egg, butter, and crumbs of bread. 
 
 Or : Chop, and afterwards pound in a 
 mortar, any kind of fish, adding an an- 
 chovy or two, or a tea-spoonful of the es- 
 
 sence of anchovies, but do not allow the 
 taste to prevail, and the yolk of a hard- 
 boiled egg : pound butter with it ; add a 
 third portion of bread, prepared by soak- 
 ing and pounding previously, and mix the 
 whole up with raw eggs. 
 
 Or : Beat the flesh and soft parts of a 
 middling-sized lobster, half an anchovy, 
 a large piece of boiled celery, the yolk of 
 a hard egg, a little cayenne, mace, salt, 
 and white pepper, with two table-spoon- 
 fuls of bread-crumbs, one ditto of- oyster 
 liquor, two ounces of butter warmed, and 
 two eggs long beaten: make into balls, 
 and fry of a fine brown in butter. 
 
 Or : Take a few shrimps, stripped of 
 their shells, an anchovy, and the yolk of 
 a hard-boiled egg, with bread-crumbs and 
 seasoning as above, but adding some 
 finely minced sweet herbs, and omitting 
 the oyster liquor : make all this into a 
 paste with a little butter and a raw egg, 
 made up in balls and fried as before. 
 
 Or : Instead of making the balls of 
 fish and frying them, it is a more simple 
 way to make them merely of bread- 
 crumbs, hard-boiled egg, and sweet herbs 
 seasoned with raw egg: drop the balls, 
 one by one, into the boiling soup a few 
 minutes before serving. Two eggs and a 
 quarter of a pound of bread should make 
 twelve or fifteen balls. 
 
 Or : Pound in a mortar, into a smooth 
 substance, an anchovy, the yolk of a 
 hard-boiled egg, a head of boiled celery, 
 and some sweet herbs, with a couple of 
 table-spoonfuls of bread-crumbs, seasoned 
 with mace, a grating of nutmeg, cayenne, 
 and salt ; then add two ounces of butter 
 melted, and work it into a paste with a 
 little flour and the yolk of a raw egg ; 
 make it into balls the size of marbles, 
 and fry them quite brown. 
 
 485. FOECEMEAT FOE TUETLE. (As at the 
 Bush, Bristol.) 
 
 One pound of fine fresh suet, one pound 
 
FARCES AND SEASONING. 
 
 247 
 
 of ready-dressed veal or chicken chopped 
 fine, crumbs of bread, a little shalot or 
 onion, salt, white pepper, nutmeg, mace, 
 pennyroyal, parsley, and lemon-thyme 
 finely shred; beat as many fresh eggs, 
 yolks and whites separately, as will make 
 the above ingredients into a moist paste ; 
 roll into small balls, and boil them in 
 fresh lard, putting them in just as it boils 
 up. When of a light brown, take them 
 out, and drain them before the fire. If 
 the suet be moist or stale, a great many 
 more eggs will be necessary. 
 
 Balls made this way are remarkably 
 light ; but being greasy, some people pre- 
 fer them with less suet and eggs. They 
 may therefore be made thus : Chop up 
 the materials with a little white pepper 
 and salt, a sage leaf or two scalded and 
 finely chopped, and the yolk of an egg ; 
 make them into small cakes or fritters, 
 and fry them. 
 
 486. EISSOLES OF ALL KINDS. 
 Chop some dressed chicken or veal 
 very fine, fry a little chopped parsley, 
 shalot, and mushrooms, very fine, and a 
 little slice of tongue or ham or not, fry 
 them in one ounce of butter a few min- 
 utes, stirring it with a wooden spoon all 
 the time ; dry the butter up with flour, 
 then add a few small spoonfuls of good 
 veal stock, a gill of cream, -three spoon- 
 fuls of bechamel sauce; now put in all 
 your chopped meat, add a little sugar, a 
 few drops of lemon juice, cayenne pepper 
 and salt, and the yolks of three eggs, boil 
 all well until quite stiff, take it out of 
 your stewpan on to a dish to get cold ; 
 when cold form them into a shape, either 
 as pears or long balls, using bread-crumbs 
 to form them ; put them to get cold ; in 
 the mean time break two eggs in a basin 
 and then egg the forms once or twice, and 
 bread-crumb them ; fyave your fat quite 
 hot to fry them, dish them on a napkin 
 with fried parsley. 
 
 437. EGGS FOR TURTLE. 
 
 Beat three hard yolks of eggs in a mor- 
 ;ar, and make into a paste with the yolk 
 )f a raw one ; roll it into small balls, and 
 ;hrow them into boiling water for two 
 minutes to harden. Though formerly 
 much used, they have latterly gone out 
 of fashion. 
 
 488. PASSOVER BALLS FOR SOUP. 
 Chop an onion and half a pound of 
 suet very finely; stew them together 
 until the suet is melted, then pour it hot 
 upon eight spoonfuls of biscuit-flour ; 
 mix it well together ; add a little salt, a 
 little grated nutmeg, lemon-peel, and gin- 
 ger, and six eggs. Put the balls into the 
 soup when it boils, and boil them for a 
 quarter of an hour. The quantity of 
 eggs and flour may appear disproportion- 
 ed, but the flour employed is of a peculiar 
 kind, used for the purpose in Jewish fami- 
 lies. Nothing can exceed the excellence 
 of the balls made after this receipt: they 
 are applicable to any kind of soups. 
 
 439. FARCE OF VEAL OR FOWL. 
 Cut up a fowl, or some veal, form the 
 fillet into small dice, cut in the same 
 quantity of good fat ham cut small, and 
 a few truffles, a little parsley, shalots, and 
 a little of all kinds of fine sweet herbs, 
 and a few chopped mushrooms, and one 
 blade of mace, three cloves, put it all in a 
 stewpan to draw down, with half a pound 
 of butter for one hour; season it, add 
 bread-crumbs to dry up the fat. then put 
 it into your mortar and pound it very 
 fine, then rub it through a wire sieve, re- 
 turn it back into the mortar, and work in 
 three or four eggs, leaving out one or two 
 whites ; mix it well up together, and put 
 it into the larder until required. If you 
 want any green, color some with prepared 
 spinach juice; this will do for all cold 
 
248 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 pies, or game, or filling turkeys, or boned 
 fowls, or galantine. 
 
 You may make this farce with dressed 
 meat, then you must not place it to draw 
 down on the fire ; all the rest the same, 
 only truffles, and mushrooms as well as 
 the rest must be first dressed. 
 
 440 SEASONING FOR EOAST POEK, 
 DUCKS, OE GEESE. 
 
 Two-thirds onion, one-third green sage, 
 chopped fine, bread crumbs equal to 
 weight of both ; season with pepper and 
 salt, and mix with a bit of butter and the 
 yolk of an egg. 
 
 441. FOE A SUCKING PIG. 
 
 A teacupful of grated bread, two ounces 
 of butter seasoned with salt, pepper and 
 nutmeg ; scald and chop fine two small 
 onions and thirty leaves of young sage ; 
 mix with a beaten egg, and sew it in the 
 Pig- 
 
 442. FOE A GOOSE. 
 
 Scald and chop fine the liver, crumb 
 twice its weight in bread, chop fine four 
 small onions, half their weight of green 
 sage, with half an ounce of butter, the 
 yolk of an egg, and a table-spoonful of 
 potato starch ; season highly with salt 
 and pepper. 
 
 448. GAENISHES. 
 
 Parsley is the most universal garnish 
 to all kinds of cold meat, poultry, fish, 
 butter, cheese, etc. Horseradish is the 
 garnish for roast beef, and fish in general ; 
 sometimes, for the latter, it is alternated 
 with slices of lemon. Slices of lemon gar- 
 nish boiled fowl, turkey, fish, roast veal, 
 
 and calf's head. 
 
 t 
 
 444. FAECES AND STUFFINGS. 
 
 A veal stuffing. Chop some suet fine, 
 a little parsley, a small piece of shalot, 
 rub through a dry sieve a small quantity 
 of basil, knotted marjoram, thyme, add 
 
 these to your suet, a grating of half a 
 lemon, a few grains of nutmeg, a few 
 bread-crumbs, and one or two eggs, mix 
 all well up together, season with pepper 
 and salt. 
 
 If for game, scrape the raw livers into 
 the stuffing, prepared as above, only in 
 addition pound it all fine. 
 
 445. FOECEMEAT INGEEDIENTS. 
 
 Forcemeat should be made to cut with 
 a knife, but not dry or heavy, no one 
 flavor should predominate ; according to 
 what it is wanted for, a choice may be made 
 from the following list ; be careful to use 
 the least of those articles that are most 
 pungent; cold fowl, or veal, or ham, 
 scraped fat bacon, beef suet, crumbs of 
 bread, parsley, white pepper, salt, nut- 
 meg, yolks and whites of eggs beaten to 
 bind the mixture. Any of the following 
 articles may be used to alter the taste ; 
 oysters, anchovies, tarragon, savory, 
 pennyroyal, marjoram, thyme, basil, 
 yolks of hard eggs, caj^enne, garlic, sha- 
 lots, endives, Jamaica pepper in powder, 
 or two or three cloves. 
 
 446. FOECEMEATS, ETC. 
 
 Cold fowl, veal, or mutton. 
 
 Scraped ham, or gammon. 
 
 Fat bacon, or fat ham. 
 
 Beef suet. 
 
 Veal suet. 
 
 Butter. 
 
 Marrow. 
 
 Soaked bread, and crumbs of bread. 
 
 Parsley and white pepper. 
 
 Salt and nutmeg. 
 
 Cold soles. 
 
 Oysters. 
 
 Anchovies. 
 
 Lobster, tarragon. 
 
 Savoy, pennyroyal. 
 
 Knotted marjoram. 
 
 Thyme and lemon thyme. 
 
 Basil and sage. 
 
 Lemon peel. 
 
BEEF. 
 
 249 
 
 Yolks of hard eggs. 
 
 Whites and yolks of eggs. 
 
 Mace and cloves. 
 
 Cayenne and garlic. 
 
 Shalot and onion. 
 
 Chives and chervil. 
 
 Ground pepper and two or three cloves. 
 
 447. BROWN COLOEING FOE MADE 
 DISHES. 
 
 Take four ounces of sugar, beat it fine, 
 put it into an iron fryingpan or earthen 
 pipkin, set it over a clear fire, and when 
 the sugar is melted it will be frothy ; put 
 it higher from the fire until it is a fine 
 brown, keep it stirring all the time ; fill 
 the pan up with red wine, take care that 
 it does not boil over, add a little salt and 
 lemon, put a little cloves and mace, a 
 shalot or two, boil it gently for ten 
 minutes, pour it in a basin till it is cold, 
 then bottle it for use. 
 
 BEEF. 
 
 BEEF is dressed in various ways all 
 the year round; but, for roasting, the 
 best season is from November to the 
 end of March. For joints, the only 
 really good roasting pieces are-the sir- 
 loin and the long ribs ; the short ribs, 
 which are cut near the neck, never roast 
 well, and should not be used for this 
 purpose ; the middle ribs are the best. 
 The under part, or fillet, of the sirloin, 
 if cut out, may be made into a delicious 
 stew; or, if cut crosswise into steaks, 
 tliy will be found more tender than 
 those of the rump. 
 
 Beef requires to be hung a long time, 
 in order to insure its being tender. 
 When however the weather is not favor- 
 able for keeping, it will b.e much improv- 
 ed by being laid for a few hours, previ- 
 ous to roasting, in a marinade of this 
 
 kind three parts water to one of vine- 
 gar, some salt, with a few peppercorns. 
 Each joint must be carefully examined 
 before it is spitted, and any portions that 
 may have been injured cut away. 
 
 The round is, in large families, one of 
 the most profitable parts : it is usually 
 boiled, and, like most of the boiling parts 
 of beef, is generally sold at less than the 
 roasting joints. 
 
 The brisket is also less in price than 
 the roasting parts ; it is not so economi- 
 cal a part as the round, having more 
 bone to be weighed with it, and more fat. 
 Where there are children, very fat joints 
 are not desirable, being often disagreea- 
 ble to them, and sometimes prejudicial, 
 especially if they have a dislike to it. 
 This joint also requires more cooking 
 than many others ; that is to say, it re- 
 quires a double allowance of time to be 
 given for boiling it : it will, when served, 
 be hard and scarcely digestible if no 
 more time be allowed to boil it than that 
 which is sufficient for other joints and 
 meats. When stewed it is excellent; 
 and when cooked fresh, (i. e. unsalted,) 
 an excellent stock for soup may be ex- 
 tracted from it, and yet the meat will 
 serve as well for dinner. 
 
 The edgebone, or aitchbone, is not con- 
 sidered to be a very economical joint, 
 the bone being large in proportion to the 
 meat ; but the greater part of it, at least, 
 is as good as that of any prime part. 
 
 The rump is the part of which the 
 butcher makes profit, by selling it in the 
 form of steaks. In the country, as there 
 is not an equal demand for steaks, the 
 whole of it may be purchased as a joint, 
 and at the price of other prime parts. 
 It may be turned to good account in pro- 
 ducing many excellent dishes. If salt- 
 ed, it is simply boiled ; if used unsalted, 
 it is usually stewed. 
 
 The veiny piece is sold at a low price 
 per pound ; but if hung for a day or two, 
 it is very good and very profitable. 
 
250 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 Where there are a number of servants 
 and children to have an early dinner, 
 this part of beef will be found desira- 
 ble. 
 
 From the leg and shin excellent stock 
 for soup may be drawn ; and if not re- 
 duced too much, the meat taken from 
 the bones may be served as a stew with 
 vegetables ; ' or it may be seasoned, 
 pounded with butter, and potted; or 
 chopped very fine, and seasoned with 
 herbs, and bound together by egg and 
 bread-crumbs ; it may be fried in balls, 
 or in the form of large eggs, and served 
 with a gravy made with a few spoonfuls 
 of the soup. 
 
 Of half an ox-qheek excellent soup 
 may be made : the meat, when taken 
 from the bones, may be served as a stew. 
 
 When one or two ribs are purchased 
 by a small family, it is a good plan to 
 have the bones taken out, and the meat 
 rolled round in the shape of a fillet ; a 
 considerable saving is eifected by this 
 plan, as, when not so prepared, the thin 
 part of the extremity of the bone is fre- 
 quently wasted. The bone cut out when 
 the meat is raw will assist in making 
 soap, and is much preferable to a cold 
 beef-bone. They are sometimes cut off 
 short, and salted or stewed, but rolled is 
 the better plan; and in this manner a 
 single rib can be skewered into a hand- 
 som3 fillet ; the fat and lean being mar- 
 bled, and the appearance of the whole 
 improved. 
 
 448. TO COLLAE EIBS OF BEEF. 
 
 Take two or three ribs of beef; cut it 
 from the bones; rub it well with salt, 
 brown sugar, and saltpetre ; let it remain 
 a fortnight, turning it every day ; then 
 season it with pepper, mace, cloves, all- 
 spice, and a clove of garlic chopped very 
 fine ; cover it well with parsley, thyme, 
 and sweet marjoram ; roll it up very 
 tight, and bind it round with tape ; put 
 it into a pot with some water, cover it 
 
 close up, and send it to the oven to be 
 baked very slowly three or four hours ; 
 then take it out, and press it between 
 two boards with weights. This is an 
 excellent dish for luncheon or break- 
 fast. 
 
 449. A MAEINADE TO BASTE EOAST 
 MEATS. 
 
 Chop up some fat bacon with a clove 
 of garlic and a sprig of parsley ; add salt, 
 pepper, a spoonful of vinegar, and four 
 spoonfuls of oil ; beat it up well, and 
 baste the meat with it. 
 
 450. SIELOIN OF BEEF fiOASTED. 
 
 Break the upper part of the chine 
 bones, cut them out, and cut through 
 the strong gristle on the top about an 
 inch apart, and skewer it in its place, 
 which will prevent its drawing up or 
 looking unsightly. Run the spit just 
 under the bark at the thin end, and 
 bring it out between the joints. By 
 spitting it thus you avoid showing where 
 the spit has gone through. Cover the 
 fat with a sheet of buttered paper, and 
 roast gently for three or four hcurs, ac- 
 cording to the size of the joint. The 
 under part is sometimes stuffed with 
 forcemeat, in the following manner : 
 
 Carefully lift up the fat from the in- 
 side of the sirloin with a sharp knife ; 
 take out all the meat close to the bone, 
 and mince it small ; take one-half pound 
 of suet, and chop it fine ; mix with it some 
 grated bread-crumbs, a little lemon-peel, 
 thyme, eschalot minced very fine ; mix 
 all together with a glass of port wine ; 
 put it back again into the same place, 
 and cover it with the skin and fat ; 
 skewer it down neatly with small wooden 
 skewers, and cover it with paper. The 
 meat should be spitted before you take 
 out the inside ; and when done do not 
 take off the paper until the joint is put 
 into the dish : then serve it up garnished 
 with scraped horseradish. 
 
BEEF. 
 
 251 
 
 The method of taking the meat from 
 the bone, and rolling it so as to have the 
 forcemeat in the middle, is easier, but 
 adds its flavor to the whole joint ; while 
 this way keeps the upper and the under 
 part separate. 
 
 451. TO DEESS THE INSIDE OF A 8IELOIN. 
 
 Cut it out in one piece, if not used^at 
 table ; stew it with good broth or gravy, 
 a little spice, and a table-spoonful of 
 walnut ketchup. Serve with chopped 
 pickles. 
 
 452. TO DEESS THE INSIDE OF A COLD 
 
 SIELOIN. 
 
 
 
 Cut out all the meat, and a little fat, 
 into pieces as thick as your finger, and 
 four inches long ; dredge them with flour, 
 and fry in butter of a nice brown : drain 
 the butter from the meat, and toss it up 
 in a rich gravy, seasoned with pepper, 
 salt, anchovy, and shalot. Do not let it 
 boil on any account. Before you serve, 
 add two spoonfuls of vinegar and a glass 
 of port wine. Garnish with crimped 
 parsley. 
 
 Or: Cut the meat in slices about 
 four inches long, and one-half an inch 
 thick, the fat with the lean ; season them 
 with pepper and salt, and fry them in 
 good fresh butter ; have ready some 
 good brown gravy, and stew them gently 
 for half an hour ; add a little mush- 
 room ketchup, and a table-spoonful of 
 eschalot vinegar, with a wine, glass of 
 port, and just before serving put in a 
 small piece of butter rolled in flour. 
 Serve hot in a covered dish. This part 
 is called the "fillet," and, when raw, 
 may be either stewed whole or in the 
 above manner. 
 
 453. ANOTHEE WAY. 
 
 Cut the inside of the sirloin into pieces, 
 dredge it with flour, put it into a frying- 
 pan in which some butter is boiling; 
 
 when it is browned, put it into a stew- 
 pan with some brown gravy, highly sea- 
 soned, squeeze in half a lemon, and 
 serve. 
 
 454. ANOTHEE WAY. 
 
 Cut it in strips, as for collops, flatten 
 it, flour, and fry in butter; lay in the 
 centre of a hot dish a mound of spinach, 
 with poached eggs on the top : lay the 
 beef round the spinach. 
 
 455. FILLET OF BEEF, EOASTED. 
 
 If unaccustomed to the use of the 
 knife, the butcher's aid may be obtained 
 to cut the fillet, which comes from the 
 inside of the sirloin ; it may be larded 
 or roasted plain ; for high dinners it is 
 larded; baste- with fresh butter. It 
 must be a large fillet which takes longer 
 than an hour and twenty minutes ; serve 
 with tomato sauce, garnish with horse- 
 radish, unless served with currant jelly, 
 then serve as with venison or hare, on 
 warmed dishes and plates. 
 
 456.-FILLET OF BEEF. 
 
 To dress the inside of a Sirloin of Beef 
 to taste like Hare. Take the inside of 
 a large sirloin that has hung until ten- 
 der ; soak it twenty-four hours in a few 
 glasses of port wine and vinegar. Have 
 ready a good stuffing as for hare; do 
 not spread, but put it into the middle 
 of the beef, and roll it up tight. Roast 
 it on a hanging spit, and baste it with 
 a glass of the wine and vinegar, mixed 
 with a teaspoonful of Jamaica pepper, 
 and a clove or two, in the finest .powder, 
 until it is all dried up ; then baste with 
 butter. Serve with a rich gravy in the 
 dish, and currant-jelly sauce in a tureen. 
 
 457. EUMP OF BEEF. 
 If of a well-fed ox, and hung till ten- 
 der, this is one of the most juicy and best 
 flavored of all the joints of beef, but is 
 
252 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 more frequently stewed than roasted. It 
 is generally sold in the country undivided 
 from the aitch-bone ; or cut across, and 
 not lengthwise, which makes it too large 
 for one dressing, and neither fit for boil- 
 ing nor roastin'g. 
 
 At family dinners, a Yorkshire pudding 
 is a usual accompaniment, but now sel- 
 dom served at genteel tables. 
 
 458. -TO STEW BEEF. 
 
 It should be put down in a pot with 
 just sufficient cold water to cover the 
 meat, and closely covered After boiling 
 three or four hours, according to the size 
 of the piece, cut in small pieces, not larger 
 than dice, two or three carrots and heads 
 of celery, with a little sweet herbs, and 
 put them into the pot along with popper- 
 corns, mace, and a couple of large onions 
 stuck full of cloves, and let it then sim- 
 mer by the side of the fire for two or 
 three hours, taking care to skim off any 
 grease that may appear on the top. 
 
 By this time the meat will probably be 
 tender enough ; when take out the whole 
 onions, mince them, and fry them in but- 
 ter, to be mixed in the gravy made by the 
 meat, which season with salt and cayenne, 
 or Chili-vinegar, to which add some mush- 
 room or walnut ketchup. Thicken the 
 gravy with a little flour, and brown it, 
 if necessary, with a spoonful of sugar 
 burnt soft ; which, besides imparting its 
 color, adds an agreeable flavor. Such is 
 the most simple mode; but the sauce 
 may be much improved by a glass or two 
 of port wine and a spoonful of curry pow- 
 
 Stewed Beet 
 der ; if the odor of garlic be not objected 
 
 to, a clove boiled in the stew will be found 
 to give it a fine flavor. Garnish with 
 vegetables. 
 
 A small piece of beef say of four 
 pounds will take the time mentioned ; 
 the large joints will require full 
 double that time ; and should be put to 
 stew overnight, adding the vegetables in 
 morning. 
 
 459.-EUMP OF BEEF STEW. 
 
 Half roast it ; then put it into a pot 
 with three pints of water, a pound of 
 sliced bacon, a bunch of sweet herbs, two 
 wine-glasses of vinegar, and a bottle of 
 cider or small wine ; stick cloves into a 
 couple of large onions, add a few sage- 
 leaves, and cover the beef closely, adding 
 more water should there npt be sufficient 
 gravy from the meat. Let it simmer for 
 three hours ; then strain the gravy. Boil 
 or bake some button onions, and lay 
 them round the beef; cover it also with 
 forcemeat balls, fried ornaments of paste, 
 and mushrooms, if in season ; add to the 
 gravy a glass of port wine, a spoonful of 
 soy and Oude sauce ; boil down a part to 
 a glaze, and put it on the beef: thicken 
 the remainder if necessary, and pour it 
 round, garnishing the dish with pickles. 
 
 Or: Season it high with cayenne, 
 salt, allspice, cloves, and a blade of mace, 
 all in fine powder. Bin J it up tight, and 
 lay it into a pot that will just hold it : 
 resting it on two or three twigs, to pre- 
 vent the megt from sticking. Fry three 
 large onions sliced, and put them to it. 
 with carrots, turnips, a shalot, a blade of 
 mace, and some celery. Cover the meat 
 with good beef-broth, and simmer it as 
 gently as possible for several hours until 
 quite tender. Clear off the fat ; and add 
 to the gravy half a pint of port wine, a 
 small glass of Chili vinegar, and a large 
 spoonful of ketchup ; simmer half an 
 hour, and serve in a deep dish. The 
 herbs to be used should be burnet, tarra- 
 
BEEF. 
 
 253 
 
 gon, parsley, thyme, basil, marjoram, and 
 all or any of the most savory sort. 
 
 Or : Prepare the beef as directed in the 
 foregoing receipts, and glaze it twice ; 
 stew some white haricot beans in good 
 brown gravy, with an onion sliced, a car- 
 rot, some parsley, and a bunch of sweet 
 herbs, a clove of garlic, a bay-leaf, and a 
 slice of lean ham ; let all simmer gently 
 together till the beans are sufficiently 
 tender ; then separa f e them from the other 
 Toge tables, and put them in a sieve to 
 drain; pass the sauce and vegetables 
 through a tammy, add a table-spoonful 
 of vinegar, and if not thick enough, a 
 bit of butter rolled in flour ; put in the 
 haricot beans, make all boiling-hot, and 
 pour the sauce into the dish round the 
 beef. 
 
 460. BEISKET OF BEEF STEWED. 
 
 Stew it in sufficient water to cover the 
 meat ; when quite tender, take out the 
 bones, and skim off the fat ; add to the 
 gravy, when strained, a glass of wine and 
 a little spice tied up in a muslin bag. 
 Have ready either mushrooms, truffles, 
 or vegetables boiled, and cut into shapes. 
 Lay them on and round the beef; reduce 
 part of the gravy to a glaze ; lay it on 
 the top, and pour the remainder into the 
 dish. 
 
 It is a good piece to be stewed, as it 
 may be cut from the bone, and of any 
 size. 
 
 461. LEG OF BEEF STEWED. 
 
 Salt six pounds of the half-leg, or stiff 
 marrow-bone of beef for three or four 
 days. Make holes in it about one and a 
 half inches deep, and press in, very hard, 
 forcemeat made in the following manner : 
 one and a half pounds of suet sliced very 
 fine ; pepper, salt, and a few cloves, some 
 winter savory, and sweet marjoram, mix 
 ed well together. The beef must be 
 baked in a deep pan, with water reaching 
 about three-quarters of the way up, and 
 forcemeat spread over the top, which, 
 
 when the meat is baked, is taken off, cut 
 into shapes, and laid round the dish. 
 
 462. BOUILLON 
 
 Is the common soup of France, and is 
 in use in almost every French family. 
 Put into an earthen stock-pot in the pro- 
 portion of one pound of beef to one quart 
 of cold water. Place it on the side of the 
 fire, and let it become slowly hot. By so 
 doing the fibre of the meat is enlarged, 
 the gelatine is dissolved, and the savor- 
 ous parts of the meat are diffused through 
 the broth. "When the object is simply to 
 make a good, pure-flavored beef broth, 
 part of the shin or leg will answer, the 
 purpose, adding some vegetables, and let- 
 ting it stew four or five hours ; but if the 
 meat is to be eaten, the rump or leg-of- 
 mutton piece should be used 
 
 463. BOUILLI. 
 
 The rump of beef is best for this pur- 
 pose, as the meat is to be served up in a 
 separate dish, and will make a finely fla- 
 vored sort of soup. Take as much of it 
 as may be thought necessary ; but for a 
 small party, say from four to six pounds, 
 along with two or three large roasted 
 onions, in one of which some cloves may 
 be stuck, and a moderate quantity of 
 whole pepper, with a bunch of sweet 
 herbs ; to which an anchovy may be add- 
 ed; put it in a stewpan. covered with 
 rather more than a pint of cold water to 
 every pound of meat ; and let it simmer 
 by the side of the fire for four or five 
 hours, or until it has become quite ten- 
 der ; then take out the herbs and onions, 
 and add carrots, turnips, and celery, 
 either cut into small squares or sliced, and 
 let the whole boil until sufficiently stew- 
 ed, and ready for the table. 
 
 The soup should then be strained off 
 and served separately, leaving only so 
 much as may be necessary for making 
 sauce for the vegetables. The sauce 
 should be a little thickened, and seasoned 
 
254 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 to the palate ; if a clove of garlic, or a 
 teaspoonful of garlic and Chili vinegar, be 
 added, it will improve the flavor. In 
 Ireland it is not uncommon to send up 
 the bouilli smothered in onion sauce, the 
 other vegetables being either not used, or 
 brought up in the soup ; in France it is 
 very usual to dress cabbage and sausages 
 as an accompaniment to the bouilli , in 
 England, it is more customary to serve it 
 up with the vegetable-sauce as above- 
 stated. Cucumbers cut into dice and 
 stewed, with a spoonful of Chili vinegar 
 added, are served at most of the German 
 hotels. The meat if gently stewed until 
 quite tender, without being boiled to rags, 
 will be found excellent, and the whole an 
 admirable dish. 
 
 464-TO KESTOEE TAINTED MEAT. 
 
 Pour a few drops of hydrochloric acid 
 in water till of a slight sour taste, and 
 immerse the tainted meat in it for an 
 hour or so, and it will become quite sweet 
 again. 
 
 465. BKOILING. 
 
 The cook must prepare her fire in due 
 time. When ready, it should be clear 
 and bright, so clear from black coal and 
 smoke that the chop or steak may come 
 from the gridiron without blemish or 
 taint of sulphur or smoke. The best 
 fuel for a broil is composed of charcoal 
 and coke, as little smoke is emitted from 
 either, even on commencing the fire, and 
 when well ignited, it is entirely free from 
 it ; coke, added to a brisk coal fire, also 
 burns bright, and is well suited for the 
 operation, though with care a proper fire 
 may be made of good hard coal. There is 
 this amongst other disadvantages, in cut- 
 ting too thick a steak, the outside is 
 likely to be scorched to horny hardness 
 before the interior is half cooked ; hence, 
 to say nothing of the misery of those 
 who have not large mouths, the disap- 
 
 pointed epicure must either wait until it 
 is put again on the gridiron, or instead 
 of eating it rare, be constrained to eat it 
 raw. N0 gridiron should be used but 
 those with fluted bars, which, forming 
 channels, the greater part of the fat 
 which otherwise falls into the fire, and 
 scorches the steak, is drawn off into a 
 gutter at the bottom ; the gridiron 
 should be thoroughly heated, and the 
 bars rubbed with beef or mutton suet 
 previously to putting on the steak, to 
 prevent its being marked by, or adhering 
 to, the bars. A close eye should be 
 kept on the steak to watch the moment 
 for .turning it. which is repeatedly done 
 during the process; broiling tongs of 
 convenient size should be used, with 
 which, by a little practice, the steak may 
 be turned with ease and despatch ; the 
 cook must have her dish thoroughly 
 heated to receive the broil when done, 
 and the cover hot to place on it instant- 
 ly. Even when she has accomplished 
 her task, if the servant who is to take it 
 to table loiters on the way, the steak 
 will have lost its zest. A steak or chop 
 should be briskly cooked, speedily con- 
 veyed to table, and served with despatch. 
 
 466. BEEF STEAKS, BKOILED. 
 
 Be particular that the fire is clear ; it 
 is of no use to attempt to broil a steak 
 over a dull, smoky, or flaring fire ; see 
 that the gridiron is clean, and the bars 
 rubbed with suet preparatory to laying 
 on the steak ; when they are browned 
 turn them ; do not be afraid of doing 
 this often, as this is the best plan to pre- 
 serve the gravy. When they are done 
 rub them over with a piece of fresh but- 
 ter, pepper and salt them, sprinkle the 
 shalot or onion cut very small, and send 
 them to table with oyster .sauce, a dish 
 of nicely cooked greens, and well boiled 
 potatoes : they are frequently and pleas- 
 
BEEF. 
 
 255 
 
 antly garnished with scraped horse- 
 radish. 
 
 467. THE ENGLISH DISH OF BEEF STEAK 
 AND ONIONS. 
 
 Pound the steak, season, and fry it in a 
 saute or frying-pan; then dredge flour 
 over it, and add, by degrees, a cup of 
 boiling water with more seasoning. 
 Drain the onions, which must have been 
 boiled, cut them up. and put them into 
 the pan, having taken out the steak ; 
 add a lump of butter and a little more 
 flour; stir them to prevent scorching; 
 and when the onions are well browned, 
 put in the steak, and place the whole over 
 the fire till heated thoroughly. In serv- 
 ing, heap the onions upon the steak. 
 
 468. BEEF STEAKS EOLLED AND 
 BOASTED. 
 
 Cut handsome steaks from the rump, 
 and if not sufficiently tender let them be 
 well beaten ; make a rich stuffing of equal 
 parts of ham and veal well peppered ; 
 stew it for a short time, and pound it in 
 a mortar with bread steeped in milk, a 
 lump of butter, and the yolk of two or 
 three eggs; spread this forcemeat over 
 the steaks, roll them up and tie them 
 tightly, roast them before a clear fire. 
 They will occupy an hour and twenty 
 minutes to an hour and a half roasting ; 
 baste well with butter while roasting, 
 and serve with brown gravy. 
 
 469. STEWED BEEF STEAKS. 
 
 Stew the steaks in three parts of a 
 pint of water, to which has been added a 
 bunch of s\veet herbs, two blades of 
 mace, an onion stuck with cloves say 
 three, an anchovy, and a lump of butter 
 soaked in flour ; pour over a glass of 
 sherry or Madeira. Stew with the pan 
 covered down, until the steaks are ten- 
 der, but not too much so ; then place 
 them in a fryingpan- with enough of fresh 
 
 butter, hissing hot, to cover them, fry 
 them brown, pour off the fat, and in ita 
 place pour into the pan the gravy in 
 which the steaks were stewed ; when 
 the gravy is thoroughly heated, and is of 
 a rich consistency, place the steaks in a 
 hot dish, pour the sauce over them. 
 The steaks should be large, the finest 
 from the rump, and have a due propor- 
 tion of fat with them. 
 
 470. BEEF STEAKS, 1 LA FRANQAISE. 
 
 Take a fine steak and dip it into cold 
 spring water, let it drain a few minutes, 
 lay it in a dish and pour over it sufficient 
 clarified butter hot, and cover it ; let it 
 remain twelve hoijrs, then remove the 
 butter, and roll the steak with the roll- 
 ing-pin a dozen times rather hardly, let 
 it lie in front of a clear fire ten minutes, 
 turning it once or twice, put it into a 
 fryingpan. with water half an inch in 
 depth, and let it fry until it browns. 
 
 Mince some parsley very fine, chop an 
 eschalot as fine as can be, and season 
 them with cayenne, salt, and a little 
 white pepper ; work them with a lump 
 of fresh butter, and when the steak is 
 brown take it from the pan, rub it well 
 with the mixture on both sides, and re- 
 turn it to the pan until done enough ; dish 
 it, thicken the gravy in the pan with a 
 little butter rolled in flour if it requires 
 it, and pour it over the steak and serve. 
 
 471. BEEF STEAKS A LA PAKISIENNE. 
 
 Cut thin steaks from the finest and 
 tendcrest part of the rump, sprinkle 
 pounded salt, a little cayenne and white 
 pepper combined, over them ; lay them in 
 a pan with an ounce of fresh butter, cut 
 in pieces ; work half a teaspoonful of 
 flour with three ounces of fresh butter, 
 as much parsley minced exceedingly fine 
 as would lie on a shilling, roll it, and cut 
 in large dice, lay it in a dish, squeeze the 
 half of a lemon over the butter, and 
 
256 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 when the steaks are done lay them upon 
 the butter; have ready a quantity of 
 raw peeled potatoes, cut in thin slices, 
 and washed in milk and water ready, fry 
 them in the butter and gravy left by the 
 steak, and lay them round the dish ; they 
 will be done when they are a rich 
 brown. 
 
 472. PALATES OF BEEF. 
 
 Four white skinned palates; if for a 
 white dish lay them all night in salt and 
 water, wash them well, put them on to 
 scald, take off all the skin, then put them 
 into your stock pot, let them boil several 
 hours until so tender that you can pass 
 a straw through them, then take them 
 up and lay them flat on a large dish 
 separate, placing another on the top of 
 them with a weight to keep them flat : 
 if to be dressed whole turn the sides 
 smooth, spread each with quenelle or 
 forcemeat, roll them up and tie them ; 
 it will take six for this dish; steam 
 them for a quarter of an hour, take them 
 up and glaze them well, and take off the 
 string ; if for a turban or timbales, cut 
 them out with a plain round cutter, 
 either using two small moulds or one 
 large ; proceed with those two as you 
 would for the timbale of macaroni, leav- 
 ing out the cheese and any other layer ; 
 introduce slices of truffles all round, and 
 then palates, then mushrooms until your 
 mould is full, put a layer of quenelle on 
 the top, paper it on the top with but- 
 tered paper, steam as other timbales; 
 haricot roots, truffles, mushrooms, to- 
 mato, piquant, any of these will do for 
 sauces, or Italienne ; glaze the tops when 
 turned out. 
 
 478. BEEF PALATES. 
 
 Take as many as required, let them 
 simmer until they peel, put them in a 
 rich gravy, stew until very tender, sea- 
 
 son with cayenne, salt, two* teaspoonfuls 
 of mushroom ketchup serve. 
 
 474 BEEF COLLOPS. 
 
 Any part of beef which is tender will 
 serve to make col lops ; cut the beef into 
 pieces about three inches long, beat them 
 flat, dredge them with flour, fry them in 
 butter, lay them in a stewpan, cover 
 them with brown gravy, put in half an 
 eschalot minced fine, a lump of butter 
 rolled in flour to thicken, with a little 
 pepper and salt ; stew without suffering 
 it to boil ; serve with pickles, or squeeze 
 in half a lemou, according to taste ; 
 serve in a tureen, and serve hot. 
 
 475. A BEEF STEW. 
 
 Take two or three pounds of the rump 
 of beef, cut away all the fat and skin, and 
 cut it into pieces about two or three 
 inches square, put it into a stewpan, and 
 pour upon it a quart of broth, let it boil, 
 sprinkle in a little salt and pepper to 
 taste ; when it has boiled very gently, or 
 simmered two hours, shred finely a large 
 lemon, add it to the gravy, and in twenty 
 minutes pour in a flavoring composed of 
 two table-spoonfuls of Harvey's sauce, 
 the juice of the lemon the rind of which 
 has been sliced into the gravy, a spoonful 
 of flour, and a little ketchup; add at 
 pleasure two glasses of Madeira, or one 
 of sherry, or port, a quarter of an hour 
 after the flavoring, and serve. 
 
 476. BEEF HASHED. 
 
 Take the bones of the joint to be hash- 
 ed, and break them small, stew them in 
 very little water, with a bunch of sweet 
 herbs, and a few onions ; roll a lump of 
 butter in flour, brown it in a stewpan, 
 pour the gravy to it, and add the meat to 
 be hashed, cut two small onions in thin 
 slices, a carrot also, and a little parsley 
 shred" finely ; stew gently until the meat 
 is hot through, and serve. 
 
BEEF. 
 
 257 
 
 477. HASH BALLS. 
 
 Mince cold roast meat very fine, mix 
 it with cold boiled potatoes chopped ; 
 season with pepper and salt, and a little 
 of the gravy ; make it into cakes as large 
 as a biscuit, cover each with beaten egg 
 and then with bread crumbs, and fry the 
 cakes a light brown in butter, lard, or 
 dripping. 
 
 478. BEEF TONGUE TO CUKE. 
 
 Throw a handful of salt over the 
 tongue, seeing that it is sprinkled on both 
 sides, let it remain to drain until the fol- 
 lowing day, make a pickle of a table- 
 spoonful of common salt, half that quan- 
 tity of saltpetre, and the same quantity 
 of coarse sugar as of salt ; rub this mix- 
 ture well into the tongue, do so every 
 day for a week; it will then be found 
 necessary to add more salt, a table-spoon- 
 ful will suffice ; in four more days the 
 tongue will be cured sufficiently. 
 
 Some persons do not rub the pickle 
 into the tongue, but let it absorb it, 
 merely turning it daily ; this method will 
 be found to occupy a month or five weeks 
 before it will be cured. When the tongue 
 is to be dried affix a paper to it with 
 a date ; smoke over a wood fire four days 
 unless wrapped in paper, and then as 
 many weeks will be required. 
 
 479. TO DEESS BEEF TONGUES. 
 
 To dress them, boil the tongue tender, 
 it will take five hours; always dress 
 them as they come out of the pickle, un- 
 less they have been very long there, then 
 they may be soaked three or four hours 
 in cold water, or if they have been smok- 
 ed, and hung long, they should be soften- 
 ed by lying in water five or six hours. 
 They should be brought to a boil gently, 
 and then simmer until tender; when 
 they have been on the fire about two 
 hours, and the scum removed as it rises, 
 throw in a bunch of sweet herbs of a 
 
 ;olerable size ; it will improve the flavor 
 of the tongue. 
 
 480. A FAMILY STEW OF BEEF. 
 
 Take any piece of beef good for stew- 
 ing, cut it into small pieces, slice two or 
 three large onions, and put them into the 
 stewpan with two ounces of butter or 
 good beef-dripping. When melted, dredge 
 in some flour, add the meat also dredged 
 with flour, and enough water to keep it 
 from burning. When the gravy has 
 drawn, fill up with boiling water, let it 
 come to a boil gently, skim the pot well, 
 then add a spoonful of mixed spices, and 
 a bay-leaf or two; set the pan by the 
 side of the fire to stew slowly for a 
 couple of hours. Eleven pounds of meat 
 will take four hours. This dish may be 
 thickened like Irish stew, with potatoes, 
 or it may be served with the addition of 
 chopped vegetables of all kinds, previ- 
 ously fried. 
 
 481. TONGUE LAEDED. 
 
 This when well cooked is especially 
 pleasant to some palates. Take a tongue 
 which has been pickled, a small one 
 is the best, cut off the root, and put it 
 into a pan ; cover it with water, and let 
 it boil tive-and-twenty or thirty minutes. 
 Take it out, and then dip it in scalding 
 water to blanch, and remove the skin. 
 
 Take a piece of fat bacon, cut it into 
 strips for larding. Make a seasoning of 
 pounded sweet herbs, eschalot, mace, and 
 a little cayenne pepper mixed with white 
 pepper and salt; sprinkle the bacon 
 strips with it, and leaving a line for divi- 
 sion down the centre of the tongue. Lard 
 it all over. Braise the tongue, and then 
 glaze ; separate it in the space left, but 
 leave it attached at either end, so that 
 when laid ojoen on the dish it is not en- 
 tirely divided in two. Have ready some 
 brown sauce, flavored with minced capers, 
 sliced pickled gherkins, the juice of half 
 a lemon, ana half a small tea-spoonful of 
 
258 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 cayenne pepper. Pour it when ready 
 into a dish ; lay the tongue upon it, and 
 serve as hot as possible. 
 
 482. BEEP OLIVES. 
 
 Cut some handsome steaks, flatten 
 them well with a roller, dredge them 
 well with a small quantity of white pep- 
 per and salt, have some forcemeat, made 
 with the fat and lean of veal mixed to- 
 gether, a small bit of lean ham or bacon, 
 parsley, and sweet herbs, with a few 
 bread crumbs, all beaten in a mortar, and 
 mixed with an egg ; lay a little over each 
 steak, and roll them up tightly, fastening 
 with a skewer ; dip them in the yolk of 
 an egg, then in crumbs of bread, and fry 
 them of a pale brown; rolling up each 
 separate steak, and binding it together 
 with thread; dish them with brown sauce, 
 in which put a glass of white wine, with 
 some strong gravy, seasoned with cayenne. 
 
 483. B(EUF TEEMBLANT. 
 
 Cut a handsome piece of beef from the 
 rump, either a fillet or square ; hang it 
 up for four daj'.s, then put it all night to 
 soak in a pickle of salt and vinegar; put 
 it into a stewpan, and let it be covered 
 with water; add a seasoning of whole 
 pepper and salt, a bundle of swe^t herbs, 
 and an onion. Let it simmer very slowly 
 as long as it will hang together, taking 
 care to skim it well. Strain the gravy, 
 and add to it carrots previously boiled, 
 and cut into pieces an inch long ; add also 
 a few capers and a mushroom, with a 
 glass of wine and the juice of a lemon. 
 "When the beef has been sufficiently 
 stewed take it up, and set it for a short 
 time in a Dutch oven, and glaze it, or 
 brown it with a salamander. 
 
 484. SPICED BEEF. 
 
 d 
 
 A joint from the round, rump, or flank, 
 from ten to fourteen pounds, is the usual 
 weight of the piece intended to be thus 
 dressed. Make a mixture of the follow- 
 
 ing ingredients, and let them be well 
 amalgamated ; pound finely as much mace 
 as will quite fill a teaspoon, grind a nnt- 
 meg to powder, and add it, also two spoon- 
 fuls of cloves, one-fourth of that quantity 
 of cayenne pepper, and half a pound of 
 coarse brown sugar; rub the beef well 
 with this mixture for three days, turning 
 it each day once ; add three-quarters of a 
 pound of salt, and then continue rubbing 
 well each day, for ten days more ; at the 
 expiration of that time dip it into some 
 cold clear spring water, twice or thrice, 
 secure it into a handsome shape, put it 
 into a stewpan with a quart of good beef 
 broth, let it come to a boil, skim as the 
 scum rises, and as soon as it boils put in 
 three carrots cut in slices, a bundle of 
 sweet herbs, a little parsley, and an onion ; 
 stew gently four hours. 
 
 If it is intended to serve this dish cold, 
 let it remain until it is cool in the liquor 
 in which it was boiled, but take the pre- 
 caution to put the meat into a clean pan, 
 and pour the liquor over it. 
 
 485. A PICKLE FOE BEEF. 
 
 To one gallon of water put two pounds 
 and a half of common salt, one ounce of 
 saltpetre, half a pound of coarse sugar, 
 boil it for a quarter of an hour, and be 
 particular white boiling to remove every 
 particle of scum while rising, that it may 
 be as clear as possible, let it be cold when 
 poured upon the beef. If it is desired to 
 make the pickle last for a very long time, 
 add a gallon of spring water to the above 
 quantity, which should, if for keeping, be 
 also spring water, add three ounces of 
 saltpetre, two pounds of bay salt, and a 
 pound and a half of coarse brown sugar. 
 \Vhatever joints are put into this pickle, 
 they should be kept closely covered down. 
 Prepare thus the beef for pickling, keep 
 it as long as you can without taint, spread 
 over it coarse sugar, and let it remain for 
 two days to drain. Rub the beef thor- 
 oughly with the pickle, and let it remain 
 
BEEF. 
 
 259 
 
 in it eight, ten, twelve, or fourteen days, 
 according to its size and quantity ; a con- 
 siderable quantity of beef may be pickled 
 together, indeed the closer it is packed 
 the better, so that it is covered with the 
 pickle and kept tightly down ; when they 
 are taken out of the pickle, lay some sticks 
 across the pan and lot them drip into it, 
 when as much has fallen from them as 
 will, wipe them dry, and they may either 
 be cooked at once or dried ; if the latter 
 be determined upon, after having well 
 dried them, smoke eight hours over burnt 
 sawdust and damp straw, or sew them in 
 a cloth and send them to the baker, and let 
 them hang seven or eight days. Do not, 
 as in the other receipt boil the pickle 
 before using the first time, but after it 
 has been once used, and every succeeding 
 time, observing that it must be kept 
 skimmed, and each time of boiling add a 
 quart of water and a couple of pounds of 
 salt. This pickle will answer equally 
 well for hams or tongues. 
 
 486. HUNG BEEF 
 
 Take twelve to fourteen pounds of 'the 
 flank of beef, throw over it a handful of 
 salt ; let it drain twenty-four hours. 
 Make a brine of one pound of salt, one 
 ounce of saltpetre ; let them be quite dry, 
 and pound them to a fine powder before 
 using, a quarter of a pound of bay salt 
 and two ounces of coarse sugar. If it is 
 intended to make the beef red, add three 
 grains of cochineal ; rub the beef with 
 this brine for a week, and then turn it ; 
 let it remain two days, and then rub it 
 again for seven or eight days ; then let 
 it drain from the pickle. Send it to the 
 baker's to be smoked. Yv r hen wanted for 
 dressing, put it into cold water more than 
 enough to cover it, boil gradually until 
 enough, and put it under a heavy weight 
 while hot. It may be served with car- 
 rots and greens, or, if for grating, choose 
 a lean piece, put it in boiling water ; keep 
 
 it boiling rapidly ; four pounds will take 
 an hour. 
 
 487. BEEF HUNG. 
 
 The best piece is the navel piece, it 
 must be hung up in a cellar until it is a 
 little damp, but not long enough to change, 
 take it down and wash it well in brown 
 sugar and water, dry it with a cloth, cut 
 it in two or three pieces, take half a nound 
 of brown sugar, two pounds of bay salt 
 dried and pounded smal', six ounces of 
 saltpetre dried and beat fine, rub it well 
 into the beef, then rub common salt over 
 it as much as will make it salt enough ; 
 let it lie together ten days, changing the 
 pieces from the bottom to the top ; hang 
 it where it may have the warmth of the 
 fire, but not too near ; when it is dressed 
 boil it in hay and water until tender; 
 it will keep two or three months ; when 
 mouldy dip it in water. 
 
 488. DUTCH HUNG BEEF. 
 
 Rub a lean piece of beef about twelve 
 pounds with molasses, and turn it fre- 
 quently, in three days wipe it dry, salt it 
 with a pound of salt and an ounce of salt- 
 petre in fine powder, rub well in, turning 
 every day for fourteen days, roll it as 
 tightly as you can in a coarse cloth, lay 
 a heavy weight upon it, hang it to dry in 
 the smoke from wood, reversing it every 
 day, boil in spring water, press it while 
 hot and grate or rice it to fancy. 
 
 489.-EUMP STEAK STEWED. 
 
 Cut a steak about an inch thick with a 
 good bit of fat, fry it over a brisk fire, 
 place it in a stewpan with the gravy, a 
 little good stock, a little port wine, and 
 some chopped mushrooms, stew gently ; 
 when tender put into it some good brown 
 sauce, shake it gently about ; dish it, and 
 put scraped or grated horseradish on the 
 top ; if for oysters or mushrooms, see 
 those sauces ; season with salt, cayenne 
 pepper, and sugar. 
 
260 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 490. RUMP STEAK PLAUS BROILED. 
 
 Cut your steak not so thick as for the 
 former; have ready a good clear fire, 
 put your gridiron to get quite hot, then 
 put on the steak at full length, frequently 
 stirring it with your steak tongs, a few 
 minutes according to taste will do it, 
 place it on your dish, put a good slice of 
 butter rubbed all over it, and now pepper 
 and salt it. Horseradish on the top of 
 it, and frequently sauces. 
 
 491. BAKED BEEP. 
 
 A Rump of twenty to twenty-five 
 pounds weight. Take two ounces each 
 of pepper and allspice; one ounce of 
 pounded cloves, and the same quantity 
 of mace ; rub this all over the joint^ 
 which should be hung up for a fortnight 
 or three weeks, according to the weather 
 taking care to keep it dry, and to occa- 
 sionally renew the seasoning. When 
 ready for baking, wash off the spice with 
 port wine, and lard the rump throughout 
 not in the common mode used by poul- 
 terers, but by inserting large lardoons in 
 different parts of the meat. Then put a 
 large quantity of suet, shred fine, both 
 under and over it, and cover it with 
 coarse flour and water paste, between 
 which and the suet you may put a few 
 bay-leaves or some sweet herbs. If eaten 
 hot, the dough, bay-leaves, and suet must 
 all be taken off; the joint basted, sprin- 
 kled with a little salt and flour, over 
 
 Self-Basting Dutch Oven. 
 
 which a salamander should be passed; 
 and served up with strong gravy or brown 
 
 sauce. If cold, leave on the dough till 
 wanted. 
 
 It should be baked in a moderately- 
 heated oven, and will take, according to 
 the size, from six to eight hours' bak- 
 ing. 
 
 A Round of Beef may be dressed in 
 the same manner ; but the bone should 
 in that case be taken out, and the hole 
 filled up with forcemeat. The flap should 
 be filled in like manner, skewered, and 
 tightly bound round with linen or strong 
 tape, in which case the dough and the 
 larding may be omitted, though the latter 
 will be found an improvement. It should 
 be always left until cold. 
 
 492. BEEF BRAINS FRIED. 
 
 Let your brains be properly marina- 
 ded, then leave them to drain ; make a 
 preparation with warm water, a little 
 butter, and salt some flour, and a spoon- 
 ful of oil, and the whites of eggs whipped 
 to snow, mix all together till like batter; 
 dip your brains into this batter, and then 
 fry them a nice brown color ; when fried 
 let them drain on a dry cloth, garnish 
 with fried parsley. 
 
 493. BEEF BRAINS A LA SAUCE 
 PIQUANTE. 
 
 Cook your brains in a marinade ; drain 
 them, put them on a dish, and pour a 
 sauce piquante all over them. 
 
 494 BUBBLE AND SQUEAK. 
 
 Sprinkle some slices of cold boiled beef 
 with pepper; fry them with a bit of but- 
 ter of a light brown ; boil a cabbage , 
 squeeze it quite dry and chop it small ; 
 take the beef out of the frying-pan and 
 lay the cabbage in it ; sprinkle a little 
 salt and pepper over it; keep the pan 
 moving over the fire for a few minutes ; 
 lay the cabbage in the middle of the dish 
 and the beef around it. 
 
BEEF. 
 
 261 
 
 495. BUBBLE AND SQUEAK 
 
 Cut slices from a cold boiled round or 
 rump of beef; let them be fried quickly 
 until brown, and put them into a dish to 
 be kept hot. Clean the pan from the fat ; 
 put into it greens and carrots previously 
 boiled and chopped small, or, instead of 
 these, large onions sliced thin and fried, 
 though both the latter are sometimes 
 omitted. Add a little butter, pepper, 
 and salt ; make them very hot, and put 
 them round the beef with a little gravy. 
 
 Cold pork boiled is thought by some 
 to be a better material for bubble and 
 squeak than beef, which is sometimes 
 hard. In either case the slices should be 
 very thin, and lightly fried. 
 
 496. OX-TAILS. 
 
 Cut the tails in pieces ; lay them in a 
 stewpan, with butter and a large onion ; 
 set them over a smart fire to make them 
 brown ; peel and boil a couple of dozen 
 of button onions in about three pints of 
 water, for fifteen or twenty minutes ; set 
 them by and pour the liquor they were 
 boiled in upon the tails, adding sufficient 
 boiling water to cover them ; put in six 
 ounces of carrots, and eight of turnips, 
 cut into slices, or balls the size of nut- 
 megs ; put in the carrots twenty minutes 
 before the turnips. Be careful that they 
 are not stewed too fast or too much. 
 When they are tender, pass the gravy 
 through a sieve ; skim off the fat, and pay 
 great attention in doing so, as the fat 
 rises while the tails are stewing. Keep 
 the meat and vegetables hot. Thicken 
 the gravy by putting an ounce of butter 
 into a stewpan ; when melted, stir in as 
 much flour as will stiffen it. Pour the 
 gravy in by degrees, stirring it till it boils ; 
 s'train it through a sieve into a stewpan, 
 and let it simmer gently till the meat and 
 vegetables are dished. Lay the tails 
 round the dish, and the vegetables in the 
 middle ; pour the gravy over ; minced 
 17 
 
 gherkins or capers may be added. POUT 
 boiling water over the onions to warm 
 them, and put them round the dish the 
 last thing. 
 
 Or :- Divide them at the joints, blanch, 
 and parboil them ; put them into a stew- 
 pan with just water or weak broth 
 enough to cover them ; let them simmer 
 over a gentle fire, and remove the scum 
 carefully as it rises ; then put in an onion, 
 a blade of mace, and a little pepper and 
 salt ; put them on again to simmer, and 
 when sufficiently done add a spoonful of 
 essence of anchovy and some flour rolled 
 in butter. This is an excellent and nour- 
 ishing dish. 
 
 497.-TEIPE. 
 
 Tripe may be dressed in several ways, 
 but whatever mode may be employed, it 
 will always be found an improvement to 
 soak it for a whole night in milk. Some 
 say, seven or eight days in salt and wa- 
 ter. If left in the milk until that gets 
 sour, the acidity thus imparted to it will 
 render it still better. 
 
 Take two pounds of fresh tripe, cleaned 
 and dressed by the tripe-dresser; cut 
 away the coarsest fat, and boil it in equal 
 parts of milk and water ; twenty minutes 
 to half an hour will be long enough. Boil 
 in the same water which boils the tripe, 
 four large onions ; the onions should be 
 put on the fire at least half an hour be- 
 fore the tripe is put in the stewpan, and 
 then made into a rich onion sauce, which 
 serve with the tripe. 
 
 Tripe is cleaned, dried, cut into pieces, 
 and fried in batter, and served with melt- 
 ed butter. 
 
 Tripe is cut into slices ; three eggs are 
 beaten up with minced parsley, sweet 
 herbs, onions chopped exceedingly fine, 
 parsley, and mushrooms. The tripe is 
 dipped into this mixture, and fried in 
 boiling lard. 
 
 Tripe may be cut into collops. covered 
 with a mixture of parsley, onions, and 
 
262 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 mushrooms, minced exceedingly fine, and 
 fried in clarified or fresh butter. Serve 
 mushroom sauce with it. 
 
 Tripe can be stewed in gravy in which 
 put parsley, onions, and mushrooms, or 
 in lieu of the latter, mushroom ketchup. 
 Thicken* the gravy with flour and butter. 
 When the tripe is tender, it will be done. 
 A lemon may be sent to table with it. 
 
 498. TO STEW OX-CHEEK. 
 
 Clean the head nicely, then soak it for 
 some hours in cold water ; put it into a 
 stewpan, and let it simmer gently till it is 
 quite tender ; then take out the bones, and 
 tie the meat up in a cloth ; put a weight 
 upon it, and let it stand till the next day ; 
 make a forcemeat' of any white meat, and 
 boil six eggs hard; cut the cheek in 
 slices ; put some at the bottom of a dish, 
 then a layer of forcemeat, then one of the 
 sliced eggs, another of meat, and so on 
 till the dish is full ; season with pepper 
 and salt, and pour in as much of the 
 gravy as the dish will hold ; either stew 
 it in the usual way, or cover it with a 
 coarse paste and send it to the oven to be 
 baked slowly. The paste to be removed 
 before brought to table. 
 
 499. BEEF TONGUE. 
 
 If it has been dried and smolced, before 
 it is dressed it should be soaked over- 
 night; but tf-jnty pickled, a few hours 
 will be sufficient. Put it into a pot of 
 cold water, and set it over a slow fire for 
 
 Tongue Garnished. 
 
 an hour or two before it comes to a boil 
 
 ;hen put it aside, and keep it simmering 
 or three and a half to four hours, ac- 
 cording to its size: you can ascertain 
 when it is done by probing it with a 
 skewer. Peel it, trim the root, glaze it, 
 and before serving surround the root 
 with a paper frill, and stick a flower or 
 two on the top. 
 
 Its appearance, and its flavor, also, 
 may be improved by rubbing it over, 
 when skinned, with yolk of egg, on 
 which crumbs of bread and finely minced 
 sweet herbs may be strewed ; then 
 slightly basting it with butter, and 
 arowning it with a salamander. 
 
 500. TO STEW TONGUE. 
 
 Salt a tongue with saltpetre and com- 
 mon salt for a week, turning it every 
 day ; boil it tender enough to peel ; when 
 done, stew it with a moderately strong 
 gravy ; season with soy, mushroom- 
 ketchup, cayenne pepper, pounded cloves, 
 and salt, if necessary. Serve with 
 truffles, morels, and mushrooms, stewed 
 in gravy. 
 
 501 AN EXCELLENT WAT OF PKEPAE- 
 ING TONGUES TO EAT COLD. 
 
 Season with common salt and salt- 
 petre, brown sugar, a little bay-salt, 
 Pfipper, cloves, mace, and allspice, in fine 
 powder, for* a fortnight; then take away 
 the pickle, put the tongue into a small 
 pan, and lay some butter on it ; cover it 
 with brown crust, and bake it slowly till 
 so tender that a straw will go through 
 it ; put it into a tin mould, and press it 
 well, laying in as much fat as possible. 
 
 The thin part of tongues, if hung up 
 to dry, grates like hung beef, and also 
 makes a fine addition to the flavor of 
 omelets. 
 
 502. TO EOAST A BEEF TONGUE. 
 Take a fine large fresh tongue, scald it, 
 and take off the skin ; cut it off at the 
 root and trim it neatly; stick a few 
 
BEEF ENTREES. 
 
 263 
 
 cloves here and there in it, and put it in 
 a cradle-spit; sprinkle it with salt, and 
 baste it well with butter. Serve it with 
 a good sauce in a sauceboat, made as 
 follows : Put into a stewpan half a pint 
 of port wine, with about half the quan- 
 tity of well seasoned gravy ; reduce it to 
 one-half; then stir in a good piece of 
 butter and a table-spoonful of flour ; add 
 a squeeze of lemon ; when the butter is 
 melted and the sauce done, place the 
 tongue in a dish, and serve hot with the 
 sauce poured round. In Spain, the sauce 
 is strongly impregnated with saffron. 
 
 503. FEESH BEEF TONGUE. 
 
 Take a green tongue, stick it with 
 cloves, and boil it gently for three hours ; 
 then brush it over with the yolk of an 
 egg, dredge it well with bread-crumbs, 
 and roast it, basting it well with butter. 
 When dished, serve it with a little brown 
 gravy flavored with a glass of wine, and 
 lay slices of currant-jelly round it. A 
 pickled tongue, well washed, may be 
 dressed in the same way, and beef- 
 udders also. 
 
 504 A FEESH NEAT'S TONGUE AND 
 UDDEE 
 
 May be roasted together in the manner 
 thus described; but when ready to be 
 dished, instead of currant-jelly, put half 
 a pint of gravy into a saucepan, with the 
 juice of a Seville orange, two lumps of 
 sugar, a glass of claret, and a piece of 
 butter : toss the whole over the fire, and 
 serve it up with the tongue and udder, 
 garnishing the dish with slices of lemon. 
 The udder should be stuck with cloves, 
 and both should be continually basted. 
 
 505. BEISKET OF BEEF, STEWED. 
 
 Take any quantity of brisket of beef 
 required, say eight or ten pounds, cover 
 it with water, stew it tender, bone the 
 beef and skim off the fat, strain the 
 gravy, add a glass of port wine, flavor 
 
 with spice tied in a bag. Have boiled 
 vegetables ready ; cut them into squares, 
 and garnish the beef from the gravy 
 round it, and serve. 
 
 606. ENTBtfES 
 
 Are, in common terms, what are call- 
 ed made-dishes ; of course, these are the 
 dishes upon which, in the high class of 
 cookery, the talent of the cook is dis- 
 played. Great care should be observed 
 in dishing them up, for the eye is a great 
 assistance to the palate : it often happens 
 that the carelessness of the servant de- 
 stroys the labors of the cook, by the 
 manner in which the dish is taken from 
 the kitchen to the dining-room. In some 
 measure to avoid that, Soyer directs a 
 small thin border of mashed potatoes, 
 about half an inch wide and a quarter of 
 an inch deep, to be placed on the bottom 
 of the dish, which keeps each object in 
 its place ; they should always be served 
 exceedingly hot. 
 
 . . 507. COW-HEELS. 
 
 Ox-feet, or Cow-heels, are not highly 
 esteemed, but they contain much nutri- 
 ment, and may be dressed in the various 
 ways already stated for tripe, with which 
 they are commonly boiled. They are 
 frequently eaten cold, with mustard and 
 vinegar. 
 
 Soak them well ; boil, and serve in a 
 napkin, with thick melted butter, a large 
 spoonful of vinegar, and a little mustard 
 and salt. Or boil, and then stew them 
 in a brown gravy. Or cut the heel hi 
 four parts, dip each in egg, flour, and fry 
 them in butter. Or fry, and serve with 
 onions fried and put round them : sauce 
 as above. 
 
 The water in which they are boiled 
 will make equally good jellies, either 
 relishing or sweet, with that of calves' 
 feet, if duly prepared ; and at a far less 
 expense. This jelly gives great addi- 
 
264 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 tional richness, likewise, to soups and 
 gravies. 
 
 508.-TO FEY OX-FEET, OE COW-HEEL. 
 
 After preparing them as above, cut 
 them into small pieces ; have ready some 
 bread finely crumbled, dip the pieces into 
 the yolk of an egg beaten up, and roll 
 them in the bread-crumbs mixed with 
 chopped parsley, pepper, and salt ; fry 
 them in butter or fresh lard, of a fine 
 brown color. 
 
 509. TO POT OX-FEET, OE COW-HEEL. 
 
 Boil them in fresh water till the bones 
 can be easily removed ; cut them into 
 small pieces, add a little of the liquor, 
 just enough to moisten it, and mix with 
 it a spoonful of vinegar, some pepper and 
 salt, and a little pounded mace ; put it 
 into a mould and turn it out when cold. 
 It is eaten with vinegar and mustard. 
 
 510 MAEEOW-BONES. 
 
 If too long to serve undivided, saw 
 them in two ; cover the open end with 
 a lump of paste and a cloth floured and 
 tied close ; the paste must be removed 
 before sent to table. Boil one and a 
 half or two hours according to the size ; 
 put a ruffle of paper round each, and 
 serve in a napkin, with very hot toast. 
 The marrow is spread upon the toast, 
 and seasoned with pepper and salt. 
 
 511. B(EUF A-LA-MODE. 
 
 Cut out the bone from the beef; then 
 stuff the orifice with rich forcemeat, 
 made with veal and oysters, and the crumb 
 of a roll steeped in milk. Half roast it, 
 and before it is put into the stewpan in- 
 sert in the top dried and pickled mush- 
 rooms, adding mushroom-powder in the 
 orifices ; then put in two quarts of 
 gravy made from the bones and trim- 
 mings, a large onion stuck with cloves, 
 
 and two carrots cut in slices. When the 
 beef has stewed till it is quite tender, 
 strain and thicken the sauce ; add to it 
 a glass of wine, mushrooms and oysters, 
 and sippets of fried paste ; either the 
 mushrooms or oysters may be omitted, 
 if the pure flavor should be more de- 
 sirable: warm a few pickles with the 
 garnish and send it up very hot. 
 
 512.-BEEF A-LA-MODE. (a Philadelphia 
 Eeceipt.) 
 
 Cut the bone out of a round of fresh 
 beef, and put into several incisions a 
 dressing made of bread-crumbs, sweet 
 herbs, and two small onions, chopped 
 fine, with seasoning of salt, pepper, mace, 
 and butter. Lard the beef, and fasten 
 up the slits, and tie it firmly with tape. 
 
 Put into a kettle a pint and a half of 
 water, with a few slices of pork ; and. 
 put in the beef, stuck with a few cloves ; 
 cover closely, and bake it several hours. 
 When it is cooked through, dish it and 
 pour over the gravy, which may be in- 
 creased in quantity by the addition of a 
 little boiling water, and flour to thicken 
 it, with a spoonful of brown sugar, and 
 a glass of wine. Serve this gravy in a 
 tureen, moistening the meat with it, and 
 garnishing with sliced carrots and beets, 
 and parsley or celery. 
 
 513. THE BATH EECEIPT. 
 
 Take three pounds of the rump, or any 
 part of the beef which will stew well ; 
 trim it nicely, and cut off all the fat. 
 Chop all sorts of sweet herbs together 
 very finely, with a little shalot and a 
 great deal of spice, and put them into a 
 saucer that has been rubbed with gar- 
 lic, and cover them with vinegar. Cut 
 fat bacon into long slips, dip it into the 
 herbs and vinegar, and let the herbs be 
 very thick upon the bacon; lard the 
 beef regularly on both sides, if neces- 
 sary, in order that it should be thorough- 
 
BEEF. 
 
 265 
 
 ly flavored. Rub the beef over with the 
 remainder of the herbs and spice. Flour 
 the meat, add a piece of butter, the size 
 of a walnut, rolled in flour, and a pint of 
 water. Bake the beef in an oven, strain 
 the gravy, which will scarcely require 
 either thickening or browning, and serve 
 it up with pickles on the top. It is 
 most excellent when cold, but should be 
 served up hot at first. The gravy may 
 be boiled to a glaze if necessary. It 
 will require a good deal of spice, a tea- 
 spoonful of cayenne pepper, one of white 
 pepper, a salt-spoonful of allspice, half 
 the quantity of pounded cloves, and a 
 blade of mace pounded. 
 
 514. FILLETS OF BEEF. 
 
 Cut the inside of a sirloin or rump in 
 slices half an inch thick ; trim them neat- 
 ly ; melt a little butter in a saute or fry- 
 ing-pan; season the fillets; fry them 
 lightly ; serve with tomato sauce, sorrel, 
 anchovy butter, or gherkin sauce. 
 
 515. FILLET OF BEEF BEAISED. 
 
 Take the inside of a sirloin of beef, 
 stuffed or plain, but rolled together s as 
 to bring the fat into the centre. Then 
 strew the bottom of the stewpan with a 
 few slices of ham, in which a small quan- 
 tity of gravy has been put, just to pre- 
 vent the bottom of the pan from burning ; 
 and on this place the meat, covering it 
 with chopped carrots, celery, button 
 onions, and a pickled chili, together with 
 a sliced gherkin, sweet herbs, salt, mace, 
 and a little allspice, and simmer until 
 tender, then brown it before the fire or 
 with a salamander, skim and season the 
 sauce, and send the meat, sauce, and veg- 
 etables up in the same dish. 
 
 516.-BEEF8TEAK 1 LA FRANCAISE 
 
 Must be cut either from the sirloin or 
 some other prime part of the beef, as 
 rump steaks are not known in France. 
 Pour over it two large spoonfuls of the 
 
 best Lucca oil, and let it remain all night ; 
 then put it and the oil into a frying-pan, 
 with some finely-chopped parsley, pep- 
 per, and salt ; fry it until the gravy dries 
 up and it becomes rather brown. Pour 
 the contents of the pan over the steak as 
 sauce. The steaks are usually garnished 
 with slices of fried potatoes. As butter 
 is not known in the southern states of 
 Europe, oil is there constantly used in 
 lieu of it, and this Parisian practice is 
 borrowed from those countries. 
 
 517. BEEF IN A MARINADE. 
 
 Cut the inside of a sirloin in slices, put 
 them into a marinade made as follows : 
 Take equal quantities of vinegar and 
 water, slice some carrots and onions, add 
 some salt and a few pepper-corns with a 
 clove of garlic. Let all stew together 
 till the goodness be extracted from the 
 vegetables, then strain it. and let it stand 
 till cold. Let the meat lie in this pickle 
 for twenty -four hours before it is dressed ; 
 then let it stew gently in a little good 
 gravy till quite tender. Add a wine- 
 glassful of port wine, a table-spoonful of 
 mushroom ketchup, a teaspoonfnl of 
 shalot vinegar, and some butter rolled in 
 flour ; place the meat neatly in the dish, 
 and pour the sauce over it. 
 
 518. BEEF A LA POLONAISE. 
 
 Take a few pounds of the best beef, 
 without bones, and, after having beaten 
 it for some time with, a rolling-pin, make 
 in it deep incisions, but without cutting 
 the meat asunder. Mince some onions, 
 mix them with bread-crumbs, butter, 
 pepper, and salt; fill the incisions with 
 this forcemeat and skewer up the meat. 
 Put it with some butter into a stewpan, 
 and stew it upon a moderate fire. It 
 should be served with brown sauce made 
 from the gravy which is drawn from the 
 meat. 
 
266 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 619, 1 LA HOUSSAED. 
 
 Take any piece of fresh beef, prepared 
 as nearly as possible in the same manner ; 
 but instead of forcemeat, fill the incisions 
 with pledgets of fat ham or bacon : sea- 
 son with pepper, salt, and onion ; lay it 
 in an iron stewpan that has a cover to fit 
 quite close, and set it by the side of the 
 fire without water. Take care it does 
 not burn, but it must have a strong heat ; 
 in two or three hours it will be quite 
 tender, and then serve with its own gravy. 
 
 520. BEEF A LA MODE. 
 
 There are several methods of making 
 this dish; the hash erroneously termed 
 alamode beef, sold at eating-houses, is a 
 very different dish to the true beef a la 
 mode. The following is called the " old 
 Bath " receipt. 
 
 Take a quantity of the buttock, or the 
 leg-of-mutton piece, the clod, or where ex- 
 pense is not an object, the rump of beef 
 as lean as possible ; cut away the fat if 
 there is any, make a mixed powder of 
 cloves- about twenty or thirty, the same 
 quantity of mace, with half an ounce of 
 allspice, savory, parsley, a handful of 
 thyme, knotted marjoram, and all other 
 sweet herbs chopped very fine ; mix them 
 in a glass of vinegar. Take some fat 
 bacon, cut it into slices as long as the 
 beef is thick, and about a quarter of an 
 inch in thickness, roll it well in the pow- 
 dered spice and herbs, make incisions of 
 the requisite depth, and insert the bacon 
 in the beef, which may be rubbed well 
 over with what remains of the powdered 
 spice, &c., in the vinegar; then dredge 
 flour over the beef, place it in a baking 
 dish with a lump of butter rolled in flour, 
 with a pint of water ; bake it in the oven, 
 strain the gravy, and serve with pickles 
 on the top ; if after being larded it should, 
 instead of being baked, be put into the 
 stewpan, add to it as much water as will 
 cover it, four onions chopped fine, half a 
 dozen cloves of garlic, as many bay leaves. 
 
 a few champignons, half a pint of ale, as 
 much port wine ; add white pepper, cay- 
 enne pepper, and salt, a teaspoonful of 
 pyroligneous acid ; strew three parts of a 
 pint of fine bread raspings over it, cover 
 down close and stew six or eight hours, 
 according to the size of the beef ; when it 
 has stewed sufficiently, take out the beef, 
 keep it hot over boiling water, strain the 
 gravy, remove the fat, champignons. &c. ; 
 boil up again, season to palate, pour the 
 gravy over the beef and send to table. 
 
 This is sometimes preferred cold, in 
 which case serve it cut in slices, with the 
 gravy, which will be a jelly. 
 
 521. BEEF A LA MODE. (Soyer's.) 
 Have ready six pounds of rump of 
 beef, cut into pieces two inches square, 
 each of which lard through with two or 
 three strips of bacon; have also two 
 pounds of streaked bacon, which clear 
 from the' rind, and cut into squares half 
 the size of the beef, put the whole into an 
 earthen pan, with two calf's feet, (cut up 
 small,) half a pint of sherry, two bay- 
 leaves, a sprig of thyme, a bunch of pars- 
 ley, four onions, with a clove stuck in 
 each, a blade of mace, and half a pint of 
 water, cover the pan as in the last, and 
 put it in a moderate oven for three hours ; 
 when done, do not remove the lid until 
 three parts cold, then take out the meat, 
 lay some of the beef at the bottom of a 
 stewpan, (not too large.) then a little 
 bacon, then more beef, and so on alter- 
 nately, press them lightly together, pass 
 the gravy through a hair sieve over, and 
 leave it until quite cold and set, when dip 
 the stewpan into hot water, and turn it 
 out upon a dish to serve. The calf's feet 
 may be made hot in a little of the stock, 
 to which add two pats of butter, with 
 which you have mixed a teaspoonful of 
 flour, season with a little chopped parsley 
 and half a spoonful of vinegar, and serve 
 as an entree. The above is excellent 
 either hot or cold. 
 
BEEF. 
 
 267 
 
 522. ALAMODE BEEF. (Kitchiner's Eeceipt.) 
 
 Take about eleven pounds of the mouse 
 buttock, clod, or blade-bone of beef, or 
 like weight of veal ; cut it into pieces of 
 three or four ounces each ; -put two or 
 three ounces of beef drippings, and a 
 couple of large onions, into a large deep 
 stewpan ; as soon as it is hot, flour the 
 meat and put it into the stewpan, stirring 
 it constantly with a wooden spoon ; when 
 it has been on about ten minutes, dredge 
 it with flour and keep doing so till you 
 have stirred in enough to thicken it ; then 
 cover it with boiling water, added by 
 degrees, and stirring all together, (it will 
 take about a gallon,) skim it when it 
 boils, and then put in one drachm of 
 ground black pepper, two of allspice, and 
 four bay-leaves ; set the pan by the side of 
 the fire, and let it stew very slowly about 
 three hours; when the meat is tender, 
 put it into a tureen, and it is ready for 
 the table. A nice salad may be served 
 with it. 
 
 523. A FKICANDEAU OF BEEF. 
 
 Take a nice piece of lean beef; lard it 
 with bacon very closely ; put it into a 
 stewpan with a pint of broth, a glass of 
 white wine, a bundle of parsley, all sorts 
 of sweet herbs, a clove of garlic, a shalot 
 or two, four cloves, pepper and salt. 
 When the meat is become tender, cover 
 it close ; skim the sauce well, and strain 
 it ; set it on the fire, and let it boil till 
 it is reduced to a glaze. Glaze the lard- 
 ed side with this, and serve the meat on 
 sorrel sauce. 
 
 524. POTTED BEEF. 
 
 ,To a pound of common salt, put a 
 quarter of an ounce of saltpetre, and two 
 ounces of coarse sugar. Rub three 
 pounds of lean beef with this, and let it 
 remain in the brine fifty hours. Drain 
 and dry it, pepper it well with black 
 pepper, put it into a pan; cut half a 
 
 pound of butter in slices, and lay round 
 it ; lay a paste crust over ft, and bake it 
 very slowly for four hours and a half. 
 Let it get cold, and then cut off the meat, 
 being careful to separate the stringy 
 pieces from it: pound it in a mortar, 
 working up with it four ounces of fresh 
 butter, and some of the gravy from the 
 meat when baked, seasoned with ground 
 allspice, a little mace, and pepper. When 
 the meat has been combined with the 
 butter and gravy, until it is worked into 
 an even paste, put it into jars, and cover 
 with clarified butter. 
 
 If it is purposed to keep it long, cover 
 it with bladder skin. The beef may be 
 potted without in the first instance being 
 salted, but if it is done it should have 
 salt worked up with it, and be soon eaten 
 after potting. Some persons make their 
 potted beef of meat that has been previ- 
 ously cooked, but the above will be found 
 to be the best receipt. 
 
 525. COW-HEEL. 
 
 Having been thoroughly washed, scald- 
 ed, and cleaned, cut them into pieces 
 about two inches long, and one wide ; 
 dip them into yolk of egg, cover them 
 with fine bread-crumbs mixed with pars- 
 ley minced, cayenne pepper, and salt, 
 and fry them in boiling butter. 
 
 526. ANOTHER WAT. 
 
 Having cleaned the feet, bone them, 
 boil them, and stew them in a rich brown 
 gravy; serve them with Indian pickle,. 
 Or, if plainly cooked, boil until enough j 
 then serve them on a napkin, with melt- 
 ed butter, flavored with a spoonful of 
 vinegar, and one of made mustard. Lem- 
 on pickle may be served with them. 
 
 627. BEEF SAUSAGES. 
 
 To three pounds of beef, very lean, put 
 one* pound and a half of suet, and chop 
 very finely ; season with sage in powder, 
 
268 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 allspice, pepper, and salt; have skins 
 thoroughly cleaned, and force the meat 
 into them. 
 
 528. BEEP HEART. 
 
 Wash it very carefully, stuff it the 
 same as you would a hare ; roast or bake 
 it, and serve with a rich gravy and cur- 
 rant jelly sauce, hash with the same and 
 port wine. 
 
 529. BEEF HEART ROASTED. 
 
 Wash thoroughly, stuff with force- 
 meat, send it to table as hot as it is pos- 
 sible with currant jelly sauce; it will 
 take about forty minutes roasting, but 
 this depends upon the fire. 
 
 580. BEEF HEART. 
 
 Let it be thoroughly well cooked, and 
 the skin removed. Wipe it dry with a 
 clean cloth ; stuff it with veal stuffing ; 
 roast two hours and a quarter. Make a 
 brown gravy, as for hare; and serve 
 with the gravy and currant jelly. 
 
 The most pleasant way to the palate 
 of dressing this dish, is to roast the 
 heart for rather less than two hours, let 
 it get cold, cut it in pieces, and jug it the 
 same as hare. 
 
 581. STEWED RUMP OF BEEF. 
 
 Half roast the beef; then place it in 
 the stewpan, add three pints or two 
 quarts of water, according to the weight 
 of the joint, two wine glasses of vine- 
 gar, three of red wine, more if expense 
 be not considered, a bottle not being too 
 much ; cider is sometimes used, Jbut the 
 meat may be stewed without it; add 
 three spoonfuls of walnut ketchup, two 
 or three blades of mace, a shalot, a des- 
 sert-spoonful of lemon pickle, cayenne 
 pepper, and salt, cover the stewpan close 
 down, stew gently for two hours, or 
 three if the rump of beef be large, take 
 it up and place it in the dish in which it 
 
 is to be served, keeping it hot in the 
 manner previously prescribed ; remove 
 the scum from the gravy in which it has 
 been stewed, and strain it; add half a 
 pint of mushrooms, three table-spoon- 
 fuls of port wine, a spoonful of Harvey's 
 sauce, thicken with flour and butter, 
 pour over the beef, garnish with pickles, 
 forcemeat balls, and horseradish. 
 
 582. HUNTER'S BEEF. 
 
 Hang for three days a round of beef 
 of twenty pounds ; at the expiration of 
 that time rub it with brine composed of 
 three ounces of saltpetre, twelve ounces 
 of salt, a spoonful of allspice, one of 
 black pepper, an ounce of coarse brown 
 sugar ; before it is rubbed with this mix- 
 ture it must be boned, and it must be 
 rubbed well every day, turning for a 
 fortnight. When it is to be dressed put 
 it into a stewpan, pour in a pint of water, 
 shred a quantity of mutton suet, cover 
 the meat with it, lay over it a thick crust, 
 attaching it round the edge of the pan, 
 tie over securely with paper, and bake 
 for six hours in an oven moderately heat- 
 ed ; take away the paper and crust, chop 
 some parsley very fine, sprinkle it over 
 the beef, and serve it cold. 
 
 It will keep some time ; the gravy will 
 make a good flavoring for soups. 
 
 583. MINCED BEEF WITH CUCUMBERS. 
 
 Take a fine rump-steak undressed, and 
 with a sharp knife shred it very fine. 
 Put it into a stewpan with a little clari- 
 fied butter and some salt ; stir it over a 
 quick fire for a few minutes, then add 
 half a pint of good beef gravy ; let it boil 
 gently till it becomes of a proper thick- 
 ness. Cut two fine cucumbers in slices 
 the thickness of a crown -piece, and put 
 them with an onion sliced in a stewpan 
 with some clarified butter, a little vinegar, 
 a lump of sugar, and fry them of a fine 
 brown color; put them into a stewpan 
 
SOYER 8 BEEF RECEIPTS. 
 
 with some plain sauce ; let it simmer 
 gently till sufficiently done ; then lay the 
 mince in the dish, and pour the cucum- 
 bers over it ; thicken the sauce with a 
 li'tle flour and butter; add the squeeze 
 of a lemon just before serving. 
 
 534 BEEF COLLOPS. 
 
 Cut the inside of a sirloin, or any other 
 convenient piece, into circular shapes, the 
 size and thickness of a half-crown, flour 
 and fry them ; sprinkle with pepper, salt, 
 chopped parsley, and shalot ; make a lit- 
 tle gravy in the pan ; send to table with 
 gherkin or tomato sauce. 
 
 SOYER'S RECEIPTS. 
 
 585. BUBBLE AND SQUEAK. 
 
 I am certain you must know, as well 
 as myself, our hereditary dish called bub- 
 ble and squeak; but, like the prepara- 
 tion of other things, there is a good way 
 and a bad ; and, as you prefer the former 
 to the latter, proceed as follows : Boil a 
 few greens, or a savOy cabbage (which 
 has been previously well washed), in 
 plain water until tender, which then 
 drain quite dry in a colander or sieve, 
 put it upon a trencher, and chop it rather 
 fine with a knife ; then for a pound of 
 salt beef you have in slices, put nearly a 
 quarter of a pound of butter into a fry- 
 ing-pan, in -which saute the beef gently 
 but not too dry ; when done, keep it hot, 
 put the cabbage in the frying-pan, season 
 with a little salt and pepper, and when 
 hot through, dress it upon a dish, lay the 
 beef over, and serve. Endive or large 
 cabbage-lettuces may be used instead of 
 cabbage, but care must be taken to drain 
 off all the water. 
 
 686. BROILED BONES. 
 
 Divide them, rub with mustard, pep- 
 per, and salt, and broil over a clear fire ; 
 
 serve with fried potatoes; and a little 
 gravy may be added. 
 
 537. TE1PE, LYONS FASHION. 
 
 When there is any remaining from a 
 previous day, dry it on a clean cloth ; 
 cut them into pieces an inch square ; put 
 into an omelette or saute pan one or two 
 ounces of butter, according to the quan- 
 tity ; slice thin a large onion, which fry 
 in the pan; then add the tripe, saute 
 them for five minutes, season with salt, 
 pepper, and a spoonful of vinegar ; serve 
 very hot. 
 
 538. OX TAILS A LA JAEDINIEEE. 
 
 Cut and cook two ox tails as directed 
 for soup, but just before they are done, 
 skim well, and take out the pieces of 
 tails, which put upon a dish ; then in 
 another stewpan put two ounces of but- 
 ter, to- which, when melted, add three 
 ounces of flour, stirring it over the fire 
 until forming a brownish roux (thicken- 
 ing), then mix by degrees two quarts of 
 the stock the tails were boiled in, and 
 boil all together ten minutes ; then put 
 in the tails, with one carrot and two tur- 
 nips (cut into small dice, or any other 
 shape, with a vegetable cutter), and about 
 thirty button onions ; let the whole sim- 
 mer 'very gently upon the corner of the 
 fire, keeping it well skimmed, until the 
 vegetables are tender, and the sauce suffi- 
 ciently thick to adhere to the back of the 
 spoon ; dress the meat upon a dish, re- 
 duce the sauce, which pour over and 
 serve. 
 
 539. OX TAILS AU GKATIN. 
 
 Cook two ox tails as before, and when 
 cold, dry them upon a cloth, season with 
 pepper and salt, have a couple of eggs 
 well beaten upon a plate, into which dip 
 each piece singly, afterwards throwing 
 them into a dish of bread-crumbs, to cov- 
 
270 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 er every part, then beat them lightly 
 with a knife, and again egg and bread- 
 crumb them, broil them upon a gridiron, 
 or place them in a very hot oven until 
 of a brownish color, when serve with any 
 sauce you may fancy, or a little plain 
 gravy. 
 
 540 OX HEAET. 
 
 This dish, although not very recherche, 
 is a good family one, and remarkable for 
 its cheapness. Put it into lukewarm wa- 
 ter, one hour to disgorge ; then wipe it 
 well with a cloth, and stuff the interior 
 with a highly seasoned veal stuffing ; tie 
 it up hi paper, and pass a small spit 
 through the sides ; set it before a good 
 fire for about two hours to roast, keep- 
 ing it well basted being almost deprived 
 of fat, basting is thus required; when 
 done, take off the paper, and serve with 
 any sharp sauce, or a little plain gravy. 
 Two hours will be sufficient to roast a 
 large heart ; but if smaller of course less 
 time in proportion would be required. 
 I have also stuffed a heart with sage and 
 onion, and even ventured the apple sauce ; 
 both succeeded admirably, and it can be 
 baked as well as roasted. 
 
 I remember, when in business, upon 
 one occasion, having a few friends pop in 
 unexpectedly about luncheon-time upon 
 a Saturday (which is a day I always" con- 
 trive to keep my larder as short as possi- 
 ble). an,d having nothing but a heart as 
 a meal to give them, I immediately gave 
 orders to the cook to cut it into slices 
 half an inch thick ; dip each piece in flour, 
 and afterwards egg and bread-crumb 
 them ; then to put four spoonfuls of oil 
 in the frying-pan, lay part of the pieces 
 in, and saute of a nice color, then to keep 
 them hot in a dish, and saute the remain- 
 der ; and when all done, to pour off part 
 of the oil ; put a teaspoonful of flour in 
 the pan, mixing it with the remaining oil 
 and gravy, then pouring in a gill of wa- 
 
 ter, season with a little pepper and salt, 
 four spoonfuls of the vinegar from picca- 
 lilly, and a little of the pickle finely chop- 
 ped ; boil the whole a minute ; pour over 
 the heart, and serve very hot. It pleased 
 very much, and they made a hearty meal 
 from it ; and I have since had some with 
 a little plain gravy, and broiled bacon : 
 in both instances it was very good. 
 
 541. POTATO SANDWICHES. 
 
 Saute the slices of beef as directed for 
 bubble and squeak, cover one side of each 
 piece with mashed potatoes a quarter of 
 an inch in thickness, egg and bread-crumb 
 over, then proceed the same with the 
 other sides ; fry in hot fat of a light brown 
 color, as you would a sole, and serve. 
 Any kind of fresh meat may be used the 
 same way. 
 
 542. FILLET OF BEEF SAUTE. 
 
 After having cut the fillet in slices, 
 put two ounces of butter into a clean 
 frying-pan, which set upon the fire, and 
 when melted, lay in the meat, seasoned 
 with a salt-spoonful of salt, and half that 
 quantity of pepper to each piece ; turn 
 them over three or four times whilst cook- 
 ing, and, when done, dress upon your 
 dish, with either anchovy or maitre d'h6- 
 tel butter. 
 
 543. ANOTHEB METHOD. 
 
 When the fillets are dished up, put a 
 table-spoonful of chopped onions into 
 the pan they were cooked in, which 
 cook for about a minute, but not letting 
 them burn, then pour off part of the fat, 
 if too much, and add two teaspoonfuls 
 of flour ; stir with a wooden spoon until 
 becoming brownish, then add nearly a 
 pint of water, a table-spoonful of vinegar, 
 and a few drops of browning ; let it boil 
 a few minutes, seasoning with a little 
 pepper, salt, and sugar ; when of the con- 
 sistency of a thin sauce, pour over the 
 fillets and serve. A few chopped pickles 
 
8OTEK 8 BEEF RECEIPTS. 
 
 271 
 
 of any description (but not too hot) 
 might be introduced, but then half the 
 quantity of vinegar would be- sufficient. 
 A spoonful of Harvey's sauce may be 
 added, and a little glaze improves it. 
 
 Mutton, lamb, or pork-chops, or veal- 
 cutlets, may be dressed in a similar man- 
 ner. 
 
 544. MINCED BEEF. 
 
 Cut a pound and a half of lean cooked 
 beef into very small dice, which put 
 upon a plate; in a stewpan put a good 
 teaspoonful of finely chopped onions, 
 with a piece of butter of fhe size of a 
 walnut, which stir over the fire until the 
 onions become lightly browned, when 
 stir in half a table- spoonful of flour, 
 with which mix by degrees half a pint 
 of broth (or water) to which you have 
 added a few drops of browning and a tea- 
 spoonful of vinegar ; let it boil five min- 
 utes, stirring it the whole time, then 
 throw in the meat, season rather highly 
 with a little pepper and salt, and, when 
 hot, pour it into a deep dish, and serve 
 with sippets of toasted bread round, or 
 poached eggs on it. 
 
 545.-CKOQUETTES OF BEEF. 
 
 Proceed precisely as in the last, but 
 omitting the vinegar ; when done, stir in 
 two yolks of eggs quickly, stir another 
 minute over the fire, then pour it upon 
 a dish until cold ; have a couple of eggs 
 well beaten upon a plate, also some 
 bread-crumbs in a separate dish, then 
 divide the preparation into about a 
 dozen pieces, which roll up into round 
 balls, or any other shape, and throw 
 them into the bread-crumbs, move them 
 over until well covered, then roll them 
 into the egg, then the bread-crumbs 
 again, from which take them gently, 
 patting the surface lightly with a knife, 
 put them into very hot lard or fat to fry 
 of a yellowish-brown color, being careful 
 not to break them whilst frying ; when 
 
 done, drain them upon a cloth, and serve 
 either upon a napkin, or with fried par- 
 sley. 
 
 546. A FAMILY FEENCH SALAD FOE THE 
 SUMMEE. 
 
 Cut up a pound of cold beef into thin 
 slices, which put into a salad-bowl, with 
 about half a pound of white fresh lettuce, 
 cut into pieces similar to the beef, season 
 over with a good teaspoonful of salt, half 
 that quantity of pepper, two spoonfuls 
 of vinegar, and five of good salad oil, 
 stir all together lightly with a fork and 
 spoon, and when well mixed it is ready 
 to serve. 
 
 For a change, cabbage-lettuce may be 
 used, or, if in season, a little endive (well 
 washed), or a little celery, or a few gher- 
 kins ; also, to vary the seasoning, a little 
 chopped tarragon and chervil, chopped 
 eschalots, or a little scraped garlic, if ap- 
 proved of, but all in proportion, and used 
 wi^h moderation.- White haricot beans 
 are also excellent with it. Remains of 
 cold veal, mutton, or lamb may be dress- 
 ed the same way. 
 
 547. POTATOES AND MEAT SALAD. 
 
 * 
 
 Proceed as in the last, but omitting 
 the lettuce ; if any cold potatoes remain 
 from a previous dinner, peel and cut 
 them in halves if small, but m quarters 
 if large, and then into pieces the size of a 
 shilling, but four times the thickness; 
 put them intq, a salad-bowl with the 
 meat, seasoning as before, but using more 
 oil and vinegar, and adding a teaspoonful 
 of chopped parsley. A small quantity 
 of any description of pickles might be 
 added to this salad, as also some ancho- 
 vies or olives. The remains of any fowls 
 or turkey may be mixed in salads, but 
 according to our habits, many persons 
 would fancy they were not nutritious ; of 
 that I can assure them to the contrary. 
 
 The quantity of the meat and vege- 
 
272 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 table should pretty equally balance with 
 each other ; after such a meal, a man's 
 appetite is perfectly satisfied, and he is 
 ready for an afternoon's work if required. 
 It also does not require the aid of any 
 fire, which we so ungratefully abhor in 
 hot weather. Mr. B. very much ap- 
 proves of this dish once a week in sum- 
 mer 
 
 548. OX KIDNEYS. 
 
 Cut a nice fresh ox-kidney into slices, 
 each being about the size of a half crown 
 piece, but double the thickness (avoiding 
 the white part, or root, which is tough 
 and indigestible), then put a quarter of a 
 pound of butter into a stewpan upon the 
 fire, and when very hot but not black.' 
 put in the pieces of kidney, stirring them 
 round with a wooden spoon three min- 
 utes over a brisk fire ; then add for each 
 pound weight of kidney, half a table- 
 spoonful of flour, half a teaspoonful of 
 salt, half that quantity of pepper, and a 
 little sugar, moisten with a gill of water 
 and half a glass of sherry, add a little 
 browning, if handy, and let simmer 
 gently for five minutes, stirring them 
 round occasionally; if too thick, add a 
 few drops more water, the same should 
 be sufficiently thick to adhere to the 
 back of the spoon, pour them out upon 
 your dish, and serve very hot. Broth 
 might be used instead of water if conve- 
 nient, but then the seasoning should be a 
 little diminished, a little chopped escha- 
 lot, parsley, or a few mushrooms, would 
 be an improvement. 
 
 By cutting an ox-kidney lengthwise in 
 three slices, it might be broiled or sau- 
 teed; if for gentlemen season rather 
 highly, but if ladies are to be the par- 
 takers, season more moderately ; a little 
 gravy may be served with it, to which 
 you have added at little ketchup; the 
 root of the kidney must not be cut away 
 in this case, although not eatable. Ox- 
 
 kidneys are also an excellent addition to 
 beef- steak puddings and pies. 
 
 549. OX-FEET OB COW-HEELS 
 Are very nutritious, especially when 
 well boiled : they may be served in either 
 of the methods directed for tripe, or with a 
 plain parsley-and-butter sauce, to which, 
 for a change, the juice of a lemon or a 
 drop of vinegar may be added. Should 
 any be left from the first day's dinner it 
 may be served a la Lyonnaise, as directed 
 for cold tripe. 
 
 550.-KEMAINS OF OX-TONGUE. 
 
 The remains of a tongue from a- pre- 
 vious dinner may be again served thus : 
 Cut it into thin slices, put a small piece 
 of butter into a frying-pan, lay the pieces 
 of tongue over, which warm a few min- 
 utes in a saute-pan, and serve with veal 
 or fowl if any; when at home alone, I 
 frequently have it with mashed potatoes 
 under it ; it makes a very good dish for 
 luncheon. The pieces of tongue might 
 also be egged and bread-crumbed pre- 
 vious to cooking as above, and served 
 with a plain gravy, or any sharp sauce. 
 (See SAUCES.) Or should you have any 
 tongue, and veal, and beef remaining, 
 sprinkle a little chopped shalots at the 
 bottom of a pie-dish, lay a layer of meat 
 over, season with a little salt, pepper, 
 and chopped parsley, then a layer of the 
 tongue; have some yellowish crusts of 
 bread grated, a teaspoonful of which 
 sprinkle over the tongue, then again a 
 layer of the meat, proceeding thus until 
 the dish is nearly full, when sprinkle 
 more of the brown bread-crumbs over 
 the top, placing a small piece of butter 
 here and there ; pour in two wine-glass- 
 fuls of water, set it in a warm oven half 
 an hour, and serve very hot. Or instead 
 of bread-crumbs, make a little good 
 mashed potato, which spread over it 
 smoothly with a spoon or knife, bake 
 half an hour in a warm oven, and serve. 
 
SOYEK S BEEF RECEIPTS. 
 
 273 
 
 Should the remains of a tongue be but 
 small, and if well pickled and boiled, the 
 root and all would be excellent in any 
 kind of beef, lamb, mutton, veal, or pork, 
 hashed, or in pies or puddings made from 
 these meats. 
 
 551. REMAINS OF SALT BEEF. 
 
 The -remains of salt beef are very ex- 
 cellent served in the few following ways, 
 no matter from what joint, or from what 
 part of the joint : Cut as large and thin 
 slices as possible, dip each slice into some 
 vinegar from mixed pickles, previously 
 poured upon a plate in small quantities ; 
 lay about a pound of the meat thus pre- 
 pared upon a flat dish, pour a wine-glass- 
 ful of water over, warm it through in the 
 oven, or before a slow fire, and serve. 
 Another way is, after having dipped the 
 beef in the vinegar, roll them in flour, 
 and proceed as above, adding double the 
 quantity of water. Another way is to 
 saute the slices with a little butter in a 
 frying-pan, have ready some nice mashed 
 potatoes very hot, lay the beef over, and 
 
 552.-COLD BEEF. 
 
 If any be left from a previous dinner, 
 put it in a dish, placing the meat in the 
 centre, rather higher, cover over with 
 some delicate mashed potatoes, about 
 two inches in thickness, to form a dome, 
 rub some egg over with a paste-brush, 
 and sprinkle crumbs of bread (either 
 grated or otherwise) upon the top, and 
 set it in the* oven until well browned, 
 when serve. 
 
 553.-BEEF BROTH. 
 
 Take a leg of beef, wash it clean, crack 
 the bone in two or three parts, put i1 
 into a pot with a gallon of water, skim i1 
 well, then put two or three blades of 
 mace in a little bundle of parsley, and a 
 crust of bread, let it boil till the beef is 
 quite tender, toast some bread, cut it into 
 
 Ice. put them into a tureen, lay in the 
 meat, and pour the soup over it. 
 
 554. MARROW BONES. 
 
 They must be sawn into convenient 
 
 izes ; cover the ends with a little dough 
 
 made of flour and water, and tie them in 
 
 a floured cloth, boil them an hour and a 
 
 lalf, serve on a napkin with dry toast. 
 
 555. BAKED MARROW BONES. 
 
 The bones should be prepared as above 
 ,nd laid in a deep dish, then put into an 
 3ven and bake gently for two hours. 
 They are sometimes cooked in batter, 
 but if so, the marrow should be cleared 
 rom the bones and put in buttered cases 
 made of clean foolscap paper ; let them 
 ie in the batter and serve with them in 
 t ; when the batter is baked the marrow 
 will be also done. 
 
 556.-CURRIED BEEF, MADRAS WAY. 
 
 Take about two ounces of butter, and 
 place it in a saucepan, with two small 
 onions cut up into slices, and let them 
 fry until they are of a light brown ; then 
 add a table-spoonful and a half of curry 
 powder, and mix it up well. Now put 
 in the beef cut into pieces about an inch 
 square ; pour in from a quarter to a third 
 of a pint of milk, and let it simmer for 
 thirty minutes; then take it off. and 
 place in a dish, with a little lemon juice. 
 Whilst cooking stir constantly, to prevent 
 it burning. Send to table with a wall of 
 mashed potatoes or boiled rice round it. 
 
 It greatly improves any curry to add 
 with the milk a quarter of a cocoa-nut, 
 scraped very small, and squeezed through 
 muslin with a little water; this softens 
 the taste of the curry, and, indeed, no 
 curry should be made without it. 
 
 557. BEEF PALATES. 
 
 Simmer them in water several hours, 
 till they will peel ; then cut the palates 
 into slices, or leave them whole, as you 
 
274: 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 choose, and stew them in a rich gravy 
 till quite tender. Before you serve, sea- 
 son them with cayenne, salt, and ketchup. 
 If the gravy was drawn clear, give it a 
 boil with some butter and flour. 
 
 If to be served white, boil them in milk, 
 and stew them in fricassee-sauce ; adding 
 cream, butter, flour, and mushroom pow- 
 der, and a little pounded mace. 
 
 553. PEESSED BEEF. 
 
 Procure a piece of brisket of beef, cut 
 off the bones, and salt it. adding a little 
 sal prunella to the brine and a little 
 spice ; let the beef remain in pickle rather 
 better than a week ; when ready to cook, 
 roll it round, tie it in a cloth, and let it 
 simmer gently in plenty of water about 
 seven hours if a whole one, but four 
 hours if only the thin end ; whe.n done 
 take it up, remove the string, and tie the 
 cloth at each end, put it upon a dish with 
 another dish over, upon which place half 
 a hundred weight, leaving it until quite 
 cold, then take the meat from the cloth, 
 trim and glaze it lightly, and serve gar- 
 nished with a few sprigs of fresh parsley. 
 
 559. PICKLE FOE BEEF 1 LA GAEEICK. 
 
 Take twenty pounds of salt, three- 
 quarters of a pound of saltpetre, four 
 cakes of sal prunella, two pounds of moist 
 sugar, two cloves of garlic, with which 
 rub the meat well, and leave it rather 
 more than a week, rubbing and turning 
 it over every day. 
 
 This pickle is adapted for any thing 
 that is required red. 
 
 560.-SPICED BEEF. 
 
 Procure a piece of thin flank of beef 
 about ten pounds in weight, which salt 
 as the last for about a week ; when ready 
 split it open with a knife and lay it out 
 flat upon a dresser, having previously 
 prepared six onions chopped very fine, 
 with about ten sprigs of parsley, and the 
 
 leaves of ten sprigs of thyme, the same of 
 marjoram, two ounces of mixed spice, 
 (without cinnamon,) and half'an ounce 
 of black pepper, mix all together, spread 
 half upon the beef as it lays before you, 
 then fold it over to its original shape, lay 
 on the remainder of the preparation, roll 
 it up tightly in a cloth, boil, press, and 
 serve as directed in the last article. 
 
 561. TO FEICASSEE COLD EOAST BEEF. 
 
 Cut the beef into slices, which should 
 be very thin, put it with some strong 
 broth into a stewpan, add parsley chopped 
 small, an onion scored, and a piece of 
 butter, simmer fifteen minutes, add a 
 glass of port wine, a teaspoonful of pyro- 
 ligneous acid, and the yolk of a couple of 
 eggs; mix well, stew quickly, pot the 
 dish, rub it with a shalot, pour fricassee 
 into it, and serve. 
 
 562. BEEF FEICANDEAU. 
 
 Take a piece of beef as lean as you can 
 obtain it, lard it well over on one side 
 with pieces of bacon. Place in a stewpan 
 an eschalot, a bunch of sweet herbs, a 
 faggot of parsley, a little cloves, three 
 parts of a quart of good broth, one glass 
 of sherry, and pepper and salt to palate. 
 'A clove of garlic may be added to the 
 eschalot if it is not found of sufficient 
 strength to flavor it without. Put on 
 the meat, and stew until tencler, take out 
 the gravy, keep the meat covered down 
 close, skim and strain the sauce, boil it 
 until reduced to a glaze. Glaze the beef 
 with it on the side larded, and serve with 
 sauce piquante, or sauce sorrel. 
 
 56a STEASBUEG POTTED MEAT. 
 
 Take a pound and a half of the rump 
 of beef, cut into dice, and put into an 
 earthen jar, with a quarter of a pound 
 of butter at the bottom, tie the jar close 
 up with paper, and set over a pot to boil ; 
 when nearly done, add cloves, mace, all- 
 
BEEF. 
 
 275 
 
 spice, nutmeg, salt, and cayenne pepper 
 to taste ; then boil till tender, and let it 
 get cold. Pound the meat, with four 
 anchovies washed and boned, add a quar- 
 ter of a pound of oiled butter, work it 
 well together with the gravy, warm a 
 little, and add cochineal to color. Then 
 press into small pots, and pour melted 
 mutton suet over the top of each. 
 
 564. A CULLIS. 
 
 You must take meat according to the 
 number of guests ; if ten or twelve, a leg' 
 of veal and a ham will be necessary, with 
 all the fat, skin, afid outside cut off; cut 
 the leg of veal into pieces about three 
 or four inches thick each way, place them 
 in a stewpan, and then the slices of ham,, 
 two carrots, and an onion cut in two, 
 cover it close, let it stew gently at first, 
 and as it begins to brown, take off the 
 cover and turn it to color on all sides the 
 same, but take care not to burn the meat ; 
 when it has a pretty brown color, moisten 
 your cullis with broth made of beef or 
 other meat, season the cullis with a little 
 sweet basil, some cloves, and a little gar- 
 lic ; pare a lemon, cut it in slices and put 
 it into the cullis with some mushrooms. 
 Put into a stewpan a good lump of but- 
 ter, and set it over a slow fire ; put into 
 it two or three handfuls of flour, stir it 
 with a wooden *ladle, and let it take a 
 color ;. if the cullis be pretty brown you 
 must put in some flour, the flour being 
 brown with the cullis, pour it gently into 
 the cullis, keeping it stirring with a 
 wooden ladle, then let the cullis stew 
 softly and skim off all the fat ; put in two 
 glasses of champagne or other white 
 wine, but take care to keep the cullis 
 very thin, so that you may take the fat 
 well off and clarify it ; you must clarify it 
 by putting it into a stove that draws 
 well, cover it close and let it boil without 
 uncovering until it boils over, then un- 
 cover and take off the fat that is round 
 the stewpan, then wipe it off the cover 
 
 also and cover it again ; when the cullis 
 is done take out the meat and strain the 
 cullis through a silken strainer ; this cul 
 Us is for all sorts of ragouts, fowls, pies, 
 and tureens. 
 
 565. BUBBLE AND SQUEAK. (New Eeceipt.) 
 
 Cut into pieces, convenient for frying, 
 cold, roast or boiled beef; pepper, salt, 
 and fry them ; when done, lay them on a 
 hot drainer, and while* the meat is drain- 
 ing from the fat used in frying them, have 
 in readiness a cabbage already boiled in 
 two waters ; chop it small, and put it in 
 the frying-pan with some butter, add a 
 little pepper and salt, keep stirring it, 
 that all of it may be equally done. When 
 taken from the fire, sprinkle over the 
 cabbage a very little vinegar, only enough 
 to give it a slight acid taste. Place the 
 cabbage in the centre of the dish ; and 
 arrange the slices of meat neatly around 
 it. 
 
 566. LOBSCOUS. 
 
 Mince, not too finely, some cold roast 
 beef or mutton. Chop the bones, and 
 put them in a saucepan with six potatoes 
 peeled and sliced, one onion, also sliced, 
 some pepper and salt ; of these make a 
 gravy. When the potatoes are completely 
 incorporated with the gravy, take out the 
 bones, and put in the meat ; stew the 
 whole together for an hour before it is to 
 be served. 
 
 567. BEEF EISSOLES. 
 
 Mince and season cold beef, and flavor 
 it with mushroom or walnut ketchup. 
 Make of beef dripping a very thin paste, 
 roll it out in thin pieces about four inches 
 square ; enclose in each piece some of the 
 mince, in the same way as for puffs, cut- 
 ting each neatly all round ;"fry them in 
 dripping of a very light brown. The 
 paste can scarcely be rolled out too thin. 
 
276 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 SEA COOKERY. 
 
 568. FIE8T WATCH STEW. 
 
 Cut pieces of salt beef, and pork into 
 dice, put them into a stewpan with six 
 whole peppercorns, two blades of mace, 
 a few cloves, a teaspoonful of celery 
 seeds, and a faggot of dried sweet herbs ; 
 cover with water, and stew gently for an 
 hour, then add fragments of carrots, tur- 
 nips, parsley, or any other vegetables at 
 hand, with two sliced onions, and some 
 vinegar to flavor ; thicken with flour, or 
 rice, remove the herbs and pour into the 
 dish with toasted bread, or freshly baked 
 biscuit broken small, and serve hot. 
 When they can be procured, a few pota- 
 toes improve it very much. 
 
 569. SEA PIE. 
 
 Make a thick pudding crust, line a dish 
 with it, or what is better, a cake tin, put 
 a layer of sliced onions, then a layer of 
 salt beef cut in slices, a layer of sliced 
 potatoes, a layer of pork, and another of 
 onions ; strew pepper over all, cover with 
 a crust, and tie down tightly with a cloth 
 previously dipped in boiling water and 
 floured. Boil for two hours, and serve 
 hot in a dish. 
 
 YEAL. 
 
 THE failing of this meat is its tendency 
 to turn;. should it show any symptoms 
 of doing this, put it into scalding water 
 and let it boil-for seven or eight minutes, 
 with some pieces of charcoal affixed ; 
 plunge it into cold water immediately 
 after taking it out of the hot, and put it 
 into the coolest place you have at com- 
 mand ; the skirt from the breast, and 
 the pipe from the loin should always be 
 removed in hot weather. 
 
 Veal of about two or three months old 
 is the best ; the flesh ought to be white, 
 approaching to pink, and the fat firm ; 
 
 it is cut up the same as mutton, except 
 that, in the hind-quarter, the loin is cut 
 straight, leaving the aitch-bone on it, 
 which may be either dressed on the loin 
 or separate. The fore-quarter consists 
 of the shoulder, neck, and breast. The 
 hind-quarter, of the knuckle, leg, fillet, and 
 the loin. The head and pluck consist of 
 the heart, liver, nuts, skirts, melt, and 
 the heart, throat, and sweetbread. 
 
 The bull-calf is the best ; the flesh is 
 firmer grained or redder, and the fat 
 more curdled than the cow-calf, which 
 latter is in general preferred, being more 
 delicate and better adapted for made 
 dishes, as having the udder. To keep 
 veal, we have to observe the first part 
 that turns bad of a leg of veal is where 
 the udder is skewered back. The skewer 
 should be taken out, and both that and 
 the whole of the meat wiped every day ; 
 by which means it will keep good three 
 or four days in hot weather, if the larder 
 be a good one. Take care to cut out 
 the pipe that runs along the chine of a 
 loin, as you do of beef, to hinder it from 
 tainting. The skirt of the breast is 
 likewise to be taken off. and the inside 
 wiped and scraped, and sprinkled with a 
 little salt. 
 
 If veal is in danger of not keeping, 
 wash it thoroughly, and boil the joint 
 ten minutes, putting it into the pot when 
 the water is boiling hot; then put it 
 into a very cool larder, or plunge it into 
 cold water till cool, and then wipe and 
 put it by. If in the least tainted, it can- 
 not be recovered, as brown meats are, 
 by the use of charcoal or pyroligneous 
 acid. 
 
 570. VEAL THE FILLET. 
 
 The fillet derives much of its pleasant 
 flavor from being stuffed. Veal in it- 
 sel being nearly tasteless, the stuffing 
 should be placed in the hollow place 
 from whence the bone is extracted, and 
 
VEAL. 
 
 277 
 
 the joint should be roasted a beautiful 
 brown; it should be roasted gradually, 
 as the meat being solid will require to 
 be thoroughly done through without 
 burning the outside ; like pork, it is 
 sufficiently indigestible without being 
 sent to table and eaten half cooked; a 
 dish of boiled bacon or ham should ac- 
 company it to table, a lemon also. 
 % In roasting veal, care must be taken 
 that it is not at first placed too near the 
 fire ; the fat of a loin, one of 'the most 
 delicate joints of veal, should be covered 
 with greased paper ; a fillet also, should 
 have on the caul until nearly done 
 enough : the shoulder should be thorough- 
 ly boiled ; when nearly done dredge with 
 flour, and produce a fine froth. 
 
 571. -FILLET OF VEAL, BOILED. 
 
 Bind it round with tape, put it in a 
 floured cloth and in cold water, boil very 
 gently two hours and a half, or if sim- 
 mered, which is perhaps the better way, 
 four hours will be taken ; it may be sent 
 to table in bechamel or with oyster 
 Bauce. 
 
 Care should be taken to keep it as 
 white as possible. 
 
 572. FILLET OF VEAL BOASTED. 
 
 Take out the bone, fill the space with 
 a fine stuffing, and let the fat be skewer- 
 ed quite round ; stuff it also well under 
 the skin with bread, sage, chopped onions 
 and parsley, as much depends on the quan- 
 tity and flavor of the stuffing, and send 
 the large side uppermost. Put a paper 
 over the fat ; and take care to allow a 
 sufficient time for roasting ; put it a good 
 distance from the fire, as the meat is 
 very solid, and must be so thoroughly 
 done as not to leave the least appearance 
 of red gravy ; serve it with melted butter 
 poured over, and gravy round. Ham or 
 bacon should be served with it, and fresh 
 cucumbers if in season. 
 18 
 
 Although considered very indigestible, 
 it is a favorite joint and generally roast- 
 ed, although it may be easily divided 
 into three parts and each dressed sepa- 
 rately ; that piece known in a " round of 
 beef" as the " silver side," being roasted, 
 and the remaining two stewed in differ- 
 ent ways. 
 
 In Paris, a longe de veau is cut some- 
 what in the shape of a haunch of mutton, 
 with the fillet and part of the loin joined 
 together. 
 
 678. TO EOA8T 
 
 A fillet of veal, it should* be stuffed 
 with the following ingredients: thyme, 
 marjoram, parsley, savory, finely minced 
 lemon-peel, mace, pepper, nutmeg, with 
 bread-crumbs ; to which add two eggs, 
 and four ounces of marrow-suet: lay 
 this stuffing in the udder, and, if any 
 remain, in such holes as you think proper 
 made in the fleshy part. Serve with, 
 melted butter, ,and garnish with the lem- 
 on-peel sliced. 
 
 574. FILLET OF VEAL BOILED. (English.) 
 
 Choose a small delicate fillet for this 
 purpose ; prepare as for roasting, or stuff 
 it with an oyster forcemeat; bind it 
 round with a tape ; after having washed 
 it thoroughly, cover it with milk and 
 water in equal quantities, and let it boil 
 very gently three and a half or four 
 hours, keeping it carefully skimmed. 
 Send it to table with a rich white sauce, 
 or, if stuffed with oysters, a tureen of 
 oyster sauce ; garnish with stewed celery 
 and slices of bacon. A boiled tongue 
 should be served with it. 
 
 575. LOIN OF VEAL BOASTED. 
 
 Take a loin of veal ; run a lark-spit 
 along the chine-bones ; then tie the ends 
 of the lark-spit on the usual spit, draw- 
 ing down the flap over the kidney. Cover 
 it well with buttered paper, and tie it up 
 
278 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 carefully; let it roast gently for three 
 hours. When about to serve, remove 
 the paper, sprinkle well with salt, dredge 
 it with flour, and finish basting with a 
 small piece of fresh butter. 
 
 This joint is frequently divided ; the 
 kidney end and the chump. The kidney 
 end sent up with a toast under the fat ; 
 the chump end should be stuffed like the 
 fillet, or sent up with balls of stuffing in 
 the dish; pour melted butter over the 
 joint, and gravy round. It also forms an 
 excellent stew if served up in winter 
 with rice, and in summer with green 
 peas. 
 
 576.-BREAST OF VEAL. 
 
 Cover it with the caul, and if you re- 
 tain the sweetbread, skewer it to the 
 back, but take off the caul when the 
 meat is nearly done ; it will take two 
 and a half to three hours roasting. 
 
 Or : Remove the tendons, and insert 
 in their place a stuffing ; then roast as 
 before. 
 
 Or : Raise the skin, and force in as 
 much stuffing as possible ; skewer it up ; 
 this will give a very good flavor to the 
 joint. 
 
 A Breast of Veal Boasted. 
 57T. TO STEW. 
 
 Cut a breast, or a portion, in pieces ; 
 fry them with a little butter, an onion 
 and a cabbage-lettuce shred small ; when 
 browned, add a little flour, shake it well 
 together; then add a small quantity of 
 broth or water ; let it stew gently ; when 
 
 nearly done, throw in green peas suffi- 
 cient for the dish; when the peas are 
 done, add a little pounded sugar, pepper, 
 and salt. It may require a little more 
 thickening, in which case knead a little 
 flour and butter together. 
 
 578. LOIN OF VEAL BOILED. 
 
 Take a loin about eight pounds, skewer 
 down the flap without disturbing the 
 kidney, put the loin into a kettle with 
 enough cold water to cover it, let it come 
 gradually to a boil (it cannot boil too 
 slowly), continue for two hours and a 
 quarter, but it must boil; remove the 
 scum as it rises, send it to table in 
 bechamel, or with parsley and melted 
 butter. 
 
 579. KNUCKLE OF VEAL. 
 
 Get a knuckle of a leg of veal, saw it 
 in three parts, but not to separate it, 
 scald it, and put it for a few minutes in 
 cold water, then place it in a stewpan 
 with some good second stock, an onion 
 or two, a faggot of herbs, a few sprigs of 
 parsley, a carrot, a turnip, and a head of 
 celery, a blade of mace, a slice of raw 
 ham, fat and lean; stew it for several 
 hours, until the gristle is soft, take out 
 the veal, cover it over to keep it white ; 
 strain the liquor, wash a pound of rice 
 and boil it in this liquor, add half a pint 
 of cream or milk, when the rice is done 
 put your veal again into it, to make hot ; 
 dish your veal carefully, and season the 
 rice with pepper and salt, and pour over 
 the veal ; if with parsley and butter in- 
 stead of water, use the stock from it, and 
 chop fine some boiled parsley and mix 
 into it. 
 
 580. KNUCKLE OF VEAL, BOILED. 
 
 Put sufficient water over it to cover it. 
 let it boil gently, and when it reaches a 
 boil as much salt as would fill a dessert- 
 spoon may be thrown in, keep it well 
 skimmed, and boil until tender, serve 
 
VEAL. 
 
 279 
 
 with parsley and butter, and a salted 
 cheek. 
 
 Allow twenty minutes to each pound. 
 
 Three quarters of a pound of rice may 
 be boiled with it, or green peas, or cu- 
 cumbers ; turnips and small spring onions 
 may be put in, allowing them so much 
 time from the cooking of the veal as they 
 will require. 
 
 581. KNUCKLE OF VEAL STEWED. 
 Place your knuckle of veal in a stew- 
 pan, if the knuckle is a very large one it 
 may be divided into two or three pieces 
 for the sake of convenience, put in the 
 pan with it a few blades of mace, a little 
 thyme, an onion, some whole pepper, a 
 burnt crust of bread, and cover with from 
 three to four pints of water, cover down 
 close, and boil ; when it has boiled place 
 it by the side of the fire and let it sim- 
 mer for at least two hours, take it up, 
 keep it hot while you strain its liquor, 
 then pour the gravy over it, and send it 
 to table with a lemon garnish. 
 
 582.-NECK OP VEAL WITH PEAS. 
 
 Add to the meat, half an hour previous 
 to its being done, one quart of peas, 
 twelve button onions, and a little more 
 sugar ; remove the fat, and serve as be- 
 fore. 
 
 583.-NECK OF VEAL WITH NEW POTA- 
 TOES. 
 
 As before, using new potatoes in place 
 of the peas. Any other vegetable, as 
 French beans, broad beans, &c., mav be 
 served with it in the same way. 
 
 Neck of veal 
 584 NECK OF VEAL 
 
 May be boiled or roasted the latter 
 
 only if it be the best end, and sent to table 
 garnished as in the above engraving it 
 may be broiled in chops, but is best in a 
 pie ; it may be, however, larded and stew- 
 ed as follows : 
 
 585. NECK OF VEAL STEWED. 
 
 Lard it with square pieces of ham or 
 bacon which have been previously rubbed 
 in a preparation of shalots, spices, pep- 
 per, and salt; place it in the stewpan 
 with about three pints of white stock, 
 add a bay or laurel leaf, and a couple of 
 onions ; add a dessert-spoonful of brandy 
 or whiskey, the latter if brandy is not at 
 hand, stew till tender, dish the meat, 
 strain the gravy, pour over the joint, and 
 serve. 
 
 586. BBEAST OF VEAL FORCED. 
 
 After taking out the tendons and all 
 the rib bones, trim the veal, spread it all 
 over with forcemeat, sprinkle over, if 
 you have got it, a little chopped truffle or 
 mushrooms, sprinkle a little pepper and 
 salt over it, then roll it tightly up and 
 tie it, then put it into a cloth and stew 
 it for several hours, take it up, and take 
 off the cloth and strings ; dry it and glaze 
 it, have some good sauce. 
 
 58T. SHOULDER OF VEAL 
 
 Remove the knuckle and roast what 
 remains, as the fillet ; it may or may not 
 be stuffed at pleasure; if not stuffed, 
 serve with oyster or mushroom sauce j 
 if stuffed, with melted butter. 
 
 588. NECK OF VEAL BRAISED. 
 
 This is done much in the same manner 
 as the neck of veal stewed ; it is larded 
 with bacon rolled in chopped parsley, 
 pepper, salt, and nutmeg, placed with the 
 scrag in a tosser, in which place lean 
 bacon, celery, carrots, one onion, a glass 
 of sherry or Madeira, with sufficient 
 water to cover it all, stew over a quick 
 fire until it is sufficiently tender, remove 
 the veal and strain the gravy, place the 
 
280 
 
 THE PEACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 veal in a stewpan in which some butter 
 and flour has been browned, let the 
 bones be uppermost, when the veal is 
 nicely colored it is enough ; boil as much 
 of the liquor as may be required, skim 
 it clean, squeeze a lemon into it, pour it 
 over the meat, and serve. 
 
 689. VEAL CUTLETS. 
 The cutlets should be cut as hand- 
 somely as possible, and about three 
 quarters of an inch in thickness, they 
 should ^before cooking be well beaten 
 with the blade of a chopper, if a proper 
 beater be not at hand, they should then 
 be fried a light brown and sent up to 
 table, garnished with parsley and rolls 
 of thin sliced, nicely fried bacon ; they 
 are with advantage coated previously to 
 cooking with the yolk of an egg, and 
 dredged with bread-crumbs. 
 
 590. VEAL CUTLETS. 
 A very nice way to cook cutlets is to 
 make a batter with half a pint of milk, 
 an egg beaten to a froth, and flour enough 
 to render it thick. When the veal is 
 fried brown, dip it into the batter, then 
 put it back into the fat, and fry it until 
 brown again. If you have any batter 
 left, it is nice dropped by the large spoon- 
 ful into the fat, and fried till brown, then 
 laid over the veal. Thicken the gravy 
 and turn it over the whole. 
 
 591. ANOTHER WAT. 
 
 Procure your cutlets cut as above, coat 
 them with the yolk of eggs well beaten, 
 strew over them bread-crumbs powdered, 
 sweet herbs, and grated lemon-peel and 
 nutmeg, put some fresh butter in the pan, 
 and when boiling put in your cutlets; 
 now make some good gravy ; when the 
 cutlets are cooked take them out and 
 keep them before the fire to keep hot, 
 dredge into the pan a little flour, put in a 
 piece of butter, pour a little white stock, 
 squeeze in juice of lemon to taste, sea- 
 
 son with pepper and salt, add mushroom- 
 ketchup, boil quickly until a light brown, 
 pour it over the cutlets, and serve, the 
 cutlets being laid in a circle round the 
 dish, and the gravy in the centre. 
 
 592. VEAL CUTLETS CUEKIED. 
 
 The cutlets may be prepared as for 
 collops by cutting them into shape, dip- 
 ping them into the yolk of eggs, and 
 seasoning them with fine bread-crumbs 
 about four table-spoonfuls, two spoonfuls 
 of curry-powder, and one of salt; fry 
 them in fresh butter ; serve with curry 
 sauce, which may be made with equal 
 parts of curry-powder, flour, and butter, 
 worked well together into a paste ; put 
 it into the pan from which the cutlets 
 have been removed, moisten with a cup- 
 ful of water in which cayenne and salt 
 have been stirred; let it thicken and 
 serve very hot. 
 
 593. VEAL CUTLETS CEUMBED OB 
 PLAIN. 
 
 If you have not got the leg of veal or 
 the cutlet piece, get a thick slice of veal 
 and cut fourteen good sized cutlets, not 
 too thin, flatten each, and trim them 
 a good shape, wet your beater in cold 
 water to keep the veal from sticking, 
 if for plain cutlets flour them well 
 and dry them, then again have ready 
 your saute-pan or fryingpan quite hot, 
 with a good bit of lard or butter, 
 then put in your cutlets, and fry a nice 
 light brown ; pepper and salt them ; if 
 to be bread-crumbed, trim them as be- 
 fore ; have ready a little clarified butter, 
 some chopped parsley, and shalot, pepper, 
 and salt, all mixed together with a yolk 
 or two of eggs well mixed; have ready 
 some bread-crumbs, put a spoonful of 
 flour amongst them well mixed ; dip each 
 cutlet into this omelet, and thin bread- 
 crumb them, patting each cutlet with 
 your knife to keep it in the proper shape, 
 making the bread-crumbs stick to the- 
 
YEAL. 
 
 281 
 
 cutlet ; melt some lard in your saute-pan, 
 and place your cutlets in it ready to fry 
 a nice brown. 
 
 594. VEAL CUTLETS 1 LA MAINTENON. 
 
 Half fry your cutlets, dip them in a 
 seasoning of bread-crumbs, parsley, sha- 
 lots, pepper and salt, and the yolk of an 
 egg ; enclose them in clean writing paper, 
 and broil them. 
 
 595. COLLOPS OF VEAL. 
 
 The piece of veal as before named, or 
 if you have it, a leg of veal ; if not, get a 
 cutlet and cut it into thin pieces, and 
 beat very thin, saut them off, and when 
 all done trim them round the size of a 
 crown piece ; pepper and salt them, place 
 in a stewpan with some brown sauce if 
 for brown, and if for white bechamel 
 sauce ; add some forcemeat balls, some 
 stewed mushrooms, and some whole 
 dressed truffles ; season with pepper, salt, 
 sugar, and lemon ; dish the collops round 
 as you would cutlets 3 putting the mush- 
 rooms, and balls, and truffles in the mid- 
 dle. 
 
 596.^-TENDONS OF VEAL. 
 
 This is from a breast of veal. Turn 
 up the breast and with a sharp knife cut 
 off the chine-bone all along^ taking care 
 you do not take any of the gristle with 
 the bone ; when you have cut off this 
 bone, place your knife under the gristle 
 and follow it all along until you have 
 raised it up ; then cut off the tendons by 
 keeping close to the rib bones; when 
 you have got it out cut twelve or four- 
 teen tendons endwise, keeping your knife 
 slanting, as each may be the size of a 
 small pattie round, but not too thin; 
 then put them on in cold water to scald, 
 then put them in cold again ; prepare a 
 stewpan lined with fat bacon or ham, 
 trim each tendon round, throw the tur- 
 aip in your braise, cover them with 
 
 second stock, and some of the skim- 
 mings ; let them stew gently for six or 
 seven hours ; be careful in taking them 
 up, and place them separately upon a 
 drying sieve ; glaze them two or three 
 times; dish them on a border; they 
 should be so tender that you might suck 
 them through a quill. 
 
 597. GALANTINE VEAL. 
 
 Take a large breast of veal ; take off 
 the chine-bone, then take out the gristle 
 called tendons, then take out all the rib 
 bones ; flatten it well, have ready some 
 good forcemeat or sausage meat ; spread 
 it all over with your forcemeat, then 
 make a line of green gherkins, then a 
 line of red capsicums, then a line of fat 
 ham or bacon, then some hard boiled 
 yolks of eggs, then a line of truffles ; if 
 you have any boiled calves' feet left from 
 jelly stock, sprinkle it in with pieces of 
 breast of fowl ; sprinkle pepper and salt 
 all over it, then roll it up tightly, and 
 likewise do so in a cloth ; tie it up lightly ; 
 stew it for two hours or more ; take it 
 up and press it flat ; let it lie until quite 
 cold ; take off the cloth. It will make 
 excellent cold dishes. 
 
 598 OLIVES OF VEAL-E6TL 
 
 Cut some cutlets a moderate thickness 
 from the chump end of the loin of veal, 
 beat them and trim them, eight or a 
 dozen, according to dish ; get some slices 
 of ham or bacon, cover the veal with 
 forcemeat and with the fat, sprinkle be- 
 tween a little chopped mushrooms, pep- 
 per and salt, roll each up, and tie and 
 skewer each, then egg and bread-crumb 
 them, bake them hi the oven with but- 
 tered paper over them, cut the string 
 when done, and before you send them to 
 table, draw the skewer, put asparagus 
 sauce, tomato, or mushroom in the dish. 
 
282 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 599. POTTED VEAL. 
 
 This may be potted as beef, or thus : 
 pound cold veal in a mortar, work up 
 with it in powder mace, pepper, and salt, 
 shred the leanest part of tongue very 
 finely, or ham is sometimes used ; place 
 in a jar or pot a layer of the pounded 
 veal, and upon that a layer of the tongue, 
 and continue alternately until the pot is 
 full, seeing that every layer is well press- 
 ed down; pour over the top melted 
 clarified butter. If it is desired, and 
 which is frequently done, to marble the 
 veal, cut the tongue or ham in square 
 dice instead of shredding it, but care 
 must be taken that they do not touch 
 each other or the effect is destroyed. 
 
 600. LOIN OF VEAL BRAISED. 
 
 This joint generally weighs from 
 twelve to fourteen pounds, when off a 
 good calf. Have the rib bones carefully 
 divided with a saw, so as not to hurt the 
 fillet, prepare the braising-pan, and pro- 
 ceed with the addition of one pint of 
 water, but take care not to cover the 
 meat, which might happen if your stew- 
 pan was too deep, (this would be boil- 
 ing instead of braising;) it will take 
 about three hours : be careful to remove 
 the fat, as this joint produces a great 
 deal. Taste the sauce before serving, 
 in case more seasoning is required, 
 which might be the case, depending on 
 the nature of the veal. A good cook 
 should taste all sauces before serving. 
 
 601.-CALFS-HEAD BAGOUT. 
 
 Parboil the head, and cut off the meat 
 into thin broad pieces, return the bones 
 to the water in which it was boiled, with 
 a beef-bone or a piece of gravy beef, and 
 ham or bacon bones ; add herbs, and, 
 making two quarts of good gravy, strain 
 it, and put in the meat. When it has 
 stewed three-quarters of an hour, add an 
 
 anchovy, a little beaten mace, cayenne 
 pepper, two spoonfuls of lemon pickle, 
 half an ounce of truffles and morels, a 
 slice or two of lemon, and a glass of 
 wine : thicken the gravy with butter and 
 flour, adding forcemeat balls fried, paste 
 fried, and brain-cakes as a garnish. 
 
 m 602.-BOILED CALF'S HEAD. 
 
 Boil the head gently until the bone 
 will leave the meat easily ; take some fine 
 forcemeat, made with ham, egg-balls, and 
 small pieces of very nice pickled pork 
 previously boiled ; lay them evenly over 
 the inside of one half of the head, and 
 roll it up ; tie it lightly in a cloth ; put 
 it into a stewpan to braise : cut the other 
 portion of the head into small pieces ; 
 thicken and flavor the stock in which it 
 was boiled, and warm it up in it, adding 
 forcemeat and egg-balls, brain cekes, and 
 fried paste. Place the rolled head in the 
 centre of the dish, with the hash round, 
 and the brain cakes, fried paste, and 
 slices of lemon as garnish. Truffles may 
 be aJded with advantage to any dish com- 
 posed of calf's head. 
 
 603. HASHED VEAL. 
 
 If to J)e hashed, from any joint not over- 
 done, cut thin slices, remove the skin 
 and gristle, put some sliced onions and a 
 shalot over the fire with a piece of but- 
 ter and some flour ; fry and shake them. 
 Put in some veal gravy and a bunch of 
 sweet herbs ; simmer ten minutes ; strain 
 off the gravy, and put it to the veal, with 
 some parsley chopped small, and a little 
 grated lemon peel and nutmeg; let it 
 simmer one minute. 
 
 If to le stewed, then add the yolk of 
 two eggs, beaten up with two spoonfuls 
 of cream and a very little pepper, and stir 
 over the fire one way until it becomes 
 thick and smooth ; squeeze a little lemon 
 juice in, and serve. 
 
VEAL. 
 
 283 
 
 604 SCOTCH COLLOP8. 
 
 If lrown, cut the collops thin, beat 
 them a little, fiy ; them in butter for 
 about two minutes, after having seasoned 
 them with a little beaten mace; place 
 them in a deep dish as they are fried, 
 and cover them with gravy. Put some 
 butter into the frying-pan, and allow it 
 just to change color. Then strain the 
 collops through a colander from the 
 gravy, and fry them quickly ; pour the 
 burnt butter from the pan, and put in 
 the gravy, adding a little lemon-juice. 
 The gravy may be made of the trimmings 
 of the veal ; serve it up with forcemeat 
 balls. 
 
 If white, cut the collops the size of a 
 crown piece, and not much thicker ; but- 
 ter the bottom of the stewpan and lay 
 the meat piece by piece upon it, having 
 shaken a little flour upon the butter; 
 add two blades of mace and a little nut- 
 meg. Set the stewpan on the fire, and 
 toss it together until the meat is very 
 white; then add half a pint of strong 
 veal broth and one quarter of a pint of 
 cream ; toss the whole, and when sim- 
 mered enough, let them just boil ; add a 
 little lemon juice, some forcemeat balls, 
 and either oysters or mushrooms, which 
 must both be very white; if necessary, 
 thicken the sauce with the yolk of eggs, 
 but do not let it boil afterwards. 
 
 605. TO DBESS COLLOPS QUICKLY. 
 
 Cut them as thin as paper with a very 
 sharp knife, and in small bits. Throw 
 the skin, and any odd bits of the veal, 
 into a little water, with a dust of pepper 
 and salt ; set them on the fire while you 
 beat the collops ; and dip them into a 
 seasoning of herbs, bread, pepper, salt, 
 and a scrape of nutmeg, but first wet 
 them in egg. Then put a bit of butter 
 into a frying-pan, and give the collops a 
 very quick fry ; for as they are so thin, 
 two minutes will do them on both sides : 
 
 put them into a hot dish before the fire ; 
 then strain and thicken the gravy. 
 
 Or: Cut the collops thin; flatten 
 them with a beater ; have a large dish, 
 dredge it with flour, and sprinkle a little 
 black pepper over it ; as the collops are 
 flattened, lay them in the dish ; put a 
 piece of butter in a frying-pan, and when 
 it is melted and hot, lay in the collops j 
 do them quickly ; when lightly browned, 
 dish them up, and serve with a mushroom 
 
 sauce. 
 
 606. CALF'S HEAD CUBBY 
 
 Is usually made with the remains left 
 from a previous dinner; if about two 
 pounds of meat remaining upon the bone, 
 cut it whilst cold into thin slices, then 
 cut two onions and two apples into small 
 dice, which put into a stewpan with an 
 ounce of butter and half a clove of garlic 
 cut in slices, stir with a wooden spoon 
 over the fire until sauteed nice and 
 brown, when add a table-spoonful of 
 curry powder, half one of flour, mix well, 
 then pour in a pint of broth, add a little 
 salt, and boil twenty minutes, keeping it 
 well stirred ; then put in the calf s head, 
 and let it remain upon the fire until quite 
 hot through; add the juice of half a 
 lemon, which stir in very gently without 
 breaking the meat, dress it upon a dish, 
 and serve with rice separately. Curry 
 sauce may be passed through a sieve pre- 
 viously to putting the head in. 
 
 607. VEAL CUTLETS EN PAPILLOTE. 
 
 Prepare, half-fry. and put them in a 
 pie-dish and pour the sauce over, and let 
 them remain until cold ; then cut a sheet 
 of foolscap paper hi the shape of a heart 
 and oil or butter it ; lay one of the cutlets 
 with a little of the sauce on one half of 
 the paper, turn the other half over, then 
 turn and plait the edges of the paper 
 over, beginning at the top of the heart 
 and finishing with an extra twist at the 
 
284 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 bottom, which will cause the sauce to 
 remain in it ; broil slowly on a gridiron 
 for twenty minutes on a very slow fire, 
 or place it in the oven for that time, and 
 serve. 
 
 608. CUTLETS AND EICE. 
 
 Boil a cupful of rice in milk until quite 
 soft, then pound it in a mortar with a 
 little salt and some white pepper ; pound 
 also separately equal parts of cold veal 
 or chicken : mix them together with yolk 
 of egg, form them into cutlets, brush 
 over with yolk of egg, and fry- them ; 
 send them up with a very piquant sauce, 
 made of good stock, thickened and flavor- 
 ed with lemon juice, lemon pickle, or 
 Harvey's sauce. The cutlets may be sent 
 to table covered with the small pickled 
 mushrooms. 
 
 609. CUTLETS AND CELEET. 
 
 i 
 
 The cutlets may be cut from the best 
 part of the neck, taking care in removing 
 the meat from the bones to cut it in a 
 good shape ; make gravy of the bones ; 
 stewing them with three or four heads 
 of celery cut and iscalded, a little salt, 
 P e PP er ? an d stewed onion j strain the 
 gravy, returning the celery into it ; thick- 
 en it with butter and flour, and pour it 
 boiling hot upon the cutlets. Stew them 
 till they are quite tender, and garnish 
 with lemon and small forcemeat balls 
 fried. 
 
 610. A L'lTALIENNE. 
 
 Chop a quantity of sweet herbs, pars- 
 ley being predominant; melt a little 
 butter on the fire and then warm the 
 herbs in it ; cut the cutlets into handsome 
 shapes, brush them with the yolk of an 
 egg, then lay on the butter and herbs 
 with a knife, and cover them well with 
 bread-crumbs ; this process should be re- 
 peated ; fry them of a fine brown ; if 
 glazed, they must be put between papers 
 
 to press all the grease out, then brush 
 them over with the glaze, and send them 
 to table. Serve with Italian sauce. 
 
 611. A LA HOLLANDAISE. 
 
 Cut some large cutlets from a fillet of 
 veal, beat them with a rolling-pin, then 
 dip them into batter made very rich with 
 egg. Make a fine forcemeat with pound- 
 ed ham, chopped oysters, &c., lay it upon 
 the cutlets, roll them up> dip them again 
 in egg-batter, roll them in bread-crumbs, 
 and tie them up ; roast them upon skew- 
 ers or in a Dutch oven ; chop and pound 
 the trimmings of the veal, add them to 
 the oysters and ham forcemeat with two 
 raw eggs, make it into balls and fry 
 them ; have some stock ready and stew 
 it with an anchovy, a shalot, some white 
 pepper and salt ; strain, and thicken it with 
 butter, add the juice of -one-half a lemon 
 and a glass of white wine ; give it one 
 boil and pour it into the dish, with the 
 rolled cutlets in the centre and the balls 
 round them. 
 
 612.-A LA HOLLANDAISE, WITH WHITE 
 SAUCE. 
 
 Out thin slices of undressed veal, hack 
 them with the back of a knife each way, 
 dip them in eggs and bread-crumbs, with 
 a little chopped parsley ; fry them in but- 
 ter, lay them on a sieve as they are done, 
 and serve them withavhite sauce as for 
 fricassee. 
 
 618. FAKCIES OP VEAL. 
 
 Chop off the thick bone of a small neck 
 of veal to the end of the fifth rib ; divide 
 the cutlets, and with a broad knife beat 
 the meat of each flat, and cover it with 
 forcemeat of lean veal, beef suet, parsley, 
 a small bit of garlic, a little salt, mace, 
 and pepper. Then roll the meat round 
 the bone, the end of which leave out at 
 one extremity, put over a thin slice of fat 
 bacon, and, having stuffed in the remain- 
 
YEAL. 
 
 285 
 
 der of the forcemeat at the ends of the 
 roll, bind up with twine. At the bottom 
 of a small stewpan lay slices of turnip, 
 onion, three inches of celery, and two 
 large carrots cut lengthways, and the 
 steaks over: add as much water, or beef 
 broth, as shall half cover them ; set the 
 pan on a moderate stove, and some wood 
 embers on the lid; simmer slowly for 
 two hours, then remove the twine, and 
 placing the bones upwards, leaning on 
 each other, strain the gravy over them. 
 
 Or : Take cutlets from the chump 
 end of a loin of veal ; beat them well ; 
 cover them with slices of bacon, then 
 with a fine forcemeat ; roll them round : 
 tie them into shape ; then dip them in the 
 yolks of eggs and the raspings of bread ; 
 roast them, basting well with butter ; 
 then put them into a sauce thickened 
 with mushrooms; squeeze lemon juice 
 over them ; let them stew till very tender, 
 and serve them up. 
 
 614. KOLLED VEAL. 
 
 The breast is the best for this purpose. 
 Bone a piece of the breast, and lay a 
 forcemeat over it of herbs, bread, an an- 
 chovy, a spoonful or two of scraped ham, 
 a very little mace, white pepper, and 
 chopped chives; then roll, bind it up 
 tight, and stew it in water or weak 
 broth with the bones, some carrots, 
 onions, turnips, and a bay-leaf. Let 
 the color be preserved, and serve it in 
 veal gravy, or fricassee sauce, with mush- 
 rooms and artichoke bottoms. 
 
 Or: Put the breast into a stewpan 
 with just water enough .to cover it, an 
 onion, a stick of celery, and a bundle of 
 sweet herbs ; let it stew very gently, 
 adding more water as it stews, until it is 
 tender ; then take out the bones, and re- 
 move the skin ; return the bones into 
 the liquor, which will be a fine jelly, and 
 serve as the sauce for several dishes. 
 Cover the veal with a fine forcemeat, 
 
 season it well, add egg-balls, and roll it 
 up, securing it with tape. Put it into a 
 stewpan with the fat procured from pork 
 chops, a slice or two of fat bacon or a 
 lump of butter, and a teacupful of the 
 liquor it was stewed in ; shake the stew- 
 pan about until the fat has melted, and 
 turn the veal in it, that it may be all 
 equally done, adding an onion and an- 
 other bunch of herbs ; let it braise one 
 and a half or two hours, then strain the 
 gravy, and thicken it ; garnish with 
 forcemeat-balls, egg-balls, and fried paste 
 cut in shapes. Peeled mushrooms may 
 be given by way of variety. When 
 well done, this is an excellent dish. 
 
 615. CALF'S LIVER. (English way.) 
 
 Cut the liver into thin slices, dip them 
 in flour, and put it in a saute or frying- 
 pan in which some slices ot bacon have 
 been previously cooked, with sufficient 
 fat left in it ; saute the liver until quite 
 brown and rather crisp, when take out 
 and place it upon a dish with the bacon, 
 then dredge a spoonful of flour in the 
 pan, or enough to absorb all the fat in it, 
 then add a little broth or water so as to 
 make it a thinnish sauce, season it, and 
 add two spoonfuls of Harvey's 'sauce or 
 mushroom ketchup. If the above is nice- 
 ly done, and the pieces cut the size of 
 cutlets, it will make a nice entree for an 
 ordinary dinner. It should be served 
 immediately, and very hot. 
 
 616. -STEWED CALF'S LIVER. (Soyer's.) 
 
 Choose a nice fat one, rather white in 
 color, lard it through with bacon, put 
 one-quarter of a pound of butter in a 
 pan ; when melted, add a table-spoonful 
 of flour, keep stirring until a nice yellow 
 color, then put in the whole of the liver ; 
 turn round now and then until it is a 
 little firm, then add a pint of broth or 
 water, and a glass of any kind of wine, 
 a bouquet of parsley, thyme, bay-leaves. 
 
286 
 
 THE PEACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 a little salt, pepper, and sugar, thirty 
 button onions ; simmer one hour ; take 
 the fat off and the bouquet out, dish the 
 liver with the onions around it, reduce 
 the sauce, so that it adheres lightly to 
 the back of the spoon, sauce over and 
 serve. Any vegetables may be used, as 
 carrots, turnips, peas, haricots ; and if a 
 little gelatine or isinglass is added to the 
 sauce, and the liver with the sauce only 
 put into a round basin and pressed down 
 and left until cold, it will make a nice 
 dish for supper, lunch or breakfast. If 
 required to be rewanned, cut into slices, 
 put it in the pan with a drop of water 
 added to the gravy. 
 
 617. CALF'S LIVER FEIED. 
 
 Cut in slices, and fry it in good beef- 
 dripping or butter ; let the pan be half 
 full, and put the liver in when it boils, 
 which is when it has done hissing; 
 have some rashers of toasted bacon, and 
 lay round it, with some parsley crisped 
 before the fire ; always lay the bacon 
 in boiling water before it is either broil- 
 ed, fried, or toasted, as it takes out the 
 salt, and makes it tender. Sauce plain 
 melted butter, a little poured over the 
 liver, the rest in the sauce-boat. 
 
 618. CALF'S HEAD CHEESE. 
 
 Boil the head until the bones will come 
 out, then put the head, tongue, and 
 brains, into a mould with spices and 
 parsley chopped fine until the mould is 
 quite full ; put a plate and a weight over 
 it, and when cold turn out. Serve with 
 parsley, and slices of rolled ham, placed 
 round the dish. 
 
 619. FRICANDEATJ OF VEAL. 
 
 In France the fricandeau is not unfre- 
 quently larded in the interior as well as 
 the outside, by having pieces of the size 
 of a little finger cut off the meat with 
 an instrument something like a cheese- 
 
 taster, and then refilled with pledgets of 
 bacon, or " lardons. " The meat is alsc 
 very generally served upon spinach, 
 dressed with cream or sorrel. 
 
 The meat, being cut into a handsome 
 shape, should be larded, and put into a 
 stewpan of small size, with just suffi- 
 cient water, or veal broth, to cover it, 
 and there allowed to simmer gently over 
 a slow fire for about three hours: or 
 until it has become so tender as to be cut 
 with a fish-slice. The gravy is then sea- 
 soned at pleasure, but most generally 
 made into white sauce. 
 
 Or :Cut a nice piece from the fillet, 
 lard it all over as thickly as possible ; 
 put it into a stewpan with a few slices of 
 fat bacon, some trimmings of veal, a car- 
 rot, turnip, and a head of celery, a few 
 allspice, two blades of mace, and four 
 bay-leaves ; let it stew very gently, until 
 thoroughly done, boil the gravy down to 
 a glaze, cover the veal with it, and 
 serve it upon a puree of sorrel. Grena- 
 dines of veal are cooked in the same 
 way, only made' of smaller pieces, four 
 for a dish. 
 
 620. FRICANDELS. 
 
 Take three pounds of the best end of 
 a loin of veal, chop the fat and lean to- 
 gether very fine; then soak a French 
 roll in some milk ; beat three eggs ; add 
 pepper, salt, nutmeg, and mace. Make 
 the mixture up about the size, and some- 
 what in the shape, of a chicken ; rub it 
 over with egg and bread-crumbs, fry 
 until it is brown, pour off the fat, boil 
 water in the pan, and stew the fricandels 
 in this gravy; two will make a hand- 
 some dish. Thicken the gravy before it 
 is sent to table. 
 
 621. MIROTON OF VEAL. 
 
 Chop very fine some cold dressed veal 
 and ham or bacon ; mix it with a slice 
 of crumb of bread soaked in milk, two 
 
VEAL. 
 
 287 
 
 onions chopped and browned, a little salt, 
 pepper, and a little cream. Put all these 
 ingredients into a stewpan until they are 
 hot, and are well mixed together ; then 
 add one or two eggs according to the 
 quantity, butter a mould, put in the 
 whole, and bake it in an oven until it is 
 brown ; turn out of the mould, and serve 
 with fresh gravy. 
 
 622. A GALANTINE. 
 
 Take out the long bones from a breast 
 of veal, and beat the veal for four min- 
 utes with the flat part of a hand-chopper, 
 in order that it may roll easily. Spread 
 it on the table, and brush it over thickly 
 with the yolk of an egg, and then sprin- 
 kle it with chopped herbs ; season with 
 pepper, salt, and pounded mace ; make 
 two omelettes, one of the yolk and one 
 of the white of egg ; cut them in strips ; 
 lay them upon the veal, with layers of 
 pounded ham or farce Tjetween ; cut some 
 pickled cucumbers or mushrooms into 
 small pieces, with some sweet herbs well 
 seasoned ; strew them over the surface, 
 then roll up the veal very tightly, tie it 
 in a cloth, and let it stew gently for six 
 hours ; then put a heavy weight upon it, 
 and let it stand two days before it is cut. 
 Serve it in slices, with savory jelly ; any 
 kind of boned game or fowl may be add- 
 ed. It requires to be highly seasoned. 
 
 623. VEAL OLIVES. 
 
 Cut long thin slices ; beat them, lay 
 them on thin slices of fat bacon, and over 
 these a layer of force meat seasoned high 
 with some shred shalot and cayenne. 
 Roll them tight, about the size of two 
 fingers, but not more than two or three 
 inches long ; fasten them round with a 
 small skewer, rub egg over them, and fry 
 of a light brown. Serve with brown 
 gravy, in which boil some mushrooms, 
 pickled or fresh. Garnish with balls 
 fried. 
 
 624. HAEICOT OF VEAL. 
 
 Take the best end of a small neck; 
 cut the bones short, but leave it whole ; 
 then put it into a stewpan just covered 
 with brown gravy ; and when it is nearly 
 done, have ready a pint of boiled peas, 
 four cucumbers pared and sliced, two 
 cabbage-lettuces cut into quarters, and 
 half a pint of carrots and turnips cut in 
 shapes, all stewed in a little good broth ; 
 put them to the veal, and let them sim- 
 mer ten minutes. When the veal is in 
 the dish, pour the sauce and vegetables 
 over it, and lay the lettuce with force- 
 meat-balls round it. 
 
 625. VEAL CUBBY. 
 
 Cut up about two pounds of lean veal 
 into small square pieces, half the size of 
 walnuts ; then put a large onion cut into 
 small dice, in a stewpan, with a clove or 
 garlic and one apple cut into slices, and 
 one ounce of butter ; keep them s'tirred 
 over a moderate fire, until lightly brown- 
 ed, when stir in a good table-spoonful of 
 mild curry powder, half a one of flour, 
 mix well, then add a pint of water, let it 
 just boil up, put in the veal, which stir 
 round two or three times, to mix with 
 the curry, and put the stewpan over a 
 slow fire, or in a warm oven for an hour 
 and a-half ; when done (which you may 
 ascertain by pressing a piece between the 
 finger and thumb, if done it would be 
 quite tender and separate,) add the juice 
 of a lemon and a little salt, stir the whole 
 round three or fou"r times very gently, 
 to mix, and turn it out upon your dish j 
 serve with rice separately. 
 
 Should you require a veal curry made 
 in less time, the better plan would be to 
 saut6 the veal in butter previously, then 
 putting it with its own gravy to the cur- 
 ry, and boiling the whole gently a quar- 
 ter of an hour. 
 
 To make a veal curry with curry paste, 
 saute the veal hi butter ; when becoming 
 
THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 slightly browned, add a good table-spoon- 
 ful of the paste, with half a pint of wa- 
 ter ; leave it to stew about half an hour, 
 when it will be ready to serve. 
 
 Beef, mutton, lamb, and pork curries 
 are made precisely the same as directed 
 for veal curries. 
 
 626. CALFS HEART BAKED. 
 
 Clean and stuff as for roasted beef heart* 
 then bake instead of roasting, and after- 
 wards serve with rich gravy or liver 
 sauce. 
 
 62T.-CALVES' FEET. 
 
 Stewed. When properly cleaned, rub 
 the feet over with pepper, a very little 
 salt, a little ground ginger, and mace; 
 cut the feet into moderately sized pieces, 
 and put them into a stewpan with a lit- 
 tle shalot, and a beefsteak also cut into 
 pieces. Cover all with cold water, and 
 let ttfem simmer together for three hours. 
 When quite tender, take them off the fire ; 
 strain the gravy through a sieve. The 
 next day when cold, take off all the fat ; 
 boil a small quantity of saffron in cream, 
 and a little cayenne pepper ; mix it with 
 the gravy, and warm the whole without 
 boiling ; one foot and one pound of steak 
 will make a dish. 
 
 Fricasseed. Boil the feet in water un- 
 til the bones will come out, with an onion 
 and a bunch of sweet herbs; take the 
 bones out, and when the meat is cold stuff 
 it nicely with a very fine farce, or force- 
 meat ; make the pieced up into handsome 
 shapes of an equal size ; then take some 
 of the stock in which the feet were boil- 
 ed, removing the fat, and straining it 
 when melted ; make this into thick white 
 sauce with cream and roux; warm up 
 the calves' feet in it, and send it to table 
 either plain or with a quantity of aspara- 
 gus tops, previously boiled, and cut into 
 small pieces. 
 
 Or /Boil tender two feet in a shallow 
 
 pan. observing not to break them ; throw 
 them into cold water for an hour ; divide 
 and lay them in a little weak veal broth, 
 and simmer them half an hour, with a 
 blade of mace and a bit of lemon peel, 
 which take out when you add half a tea- 
 cupful of cream, and a bit of flour and 
 butter. 
 
 Fried. Take calves' feet which have 
 been boiled until very tender ; remove 
 the bones ; let them- get cold ; cut them 
 into well-shaped pieces ; seasen them 
 with white pepper and salt; dip them 
 into butter, fry them, and serve them up 
 with a sharp sauce or garnish of pickles. 
 
 Calves' feet may also be plainly boiled, 
 and served with parsley and butter, or 
 eaten cold with oil and vinegar. 
 
 628. QUEUES DE VEAU. 
 
 Having nicely cleaned and soaked four 
 calves' tails, cut off the small ends, and 
 blanch them ; dry, flour, and fry them a 
 fine brown in butter ; drain the fat from 
 them, and having ready a pint of weak 
 broth, with a bunch of sweet herbs, chi- 
 bols, two bay-leaves, half a pint of mush- 
 rooms, pepper and salt, boiled up and 
 skimmed ; wipe the sides of the casserole, 
 put the tails in, and simmer very slowly 
 until they are quite tender ; keep them 
 hot while the gravy is strained, and boil- 
 ed to a glaze, to cover them. If you 
 have no mushrooms, mix a little of the 
 powder into gravy just before serving ; 
 have ready small onions, and peel to one 
 size to send up in the dish. 
 
 629. CALVES' EARS STUFFED. 
 
 The hair being scalded off the ears, 
 after they have been cut quite close to 
 the head, scald and clean them as well as 
 possible ; boil them quite tender, and 
 blanch them in cold water. Observe that 
 the gristle next the head be cut so 
 smooth as to allow the ears to stand up- 
 right ; they may be boiled in white gravy 
 
VEAL. 
 
 289 
 
 instead of water, which will make them 
 richer. When become cold, fill up the 
 cavity with a fine stuffing of calf's liver, 
 fat bacon, grated ham, bread soaked in 
 cream or gravy, herbs, an unbeaten egg, 
 a little salt, and a small piece of mace ; 
 rub egg over the ears and stuffing, dip in 
 bread-crumbs, and fry of a beautiful 
 light brown. Serve in brown or white 
 gravy, or tomato-sauce. If the ear be 
 large, one will be sufficient for a corner 
 dish. 
 
 Or: When prepared as above, boil 
 them quite tender in gravy, and serve 
 them in chervil-sauce ; or else boil cher- 
 vil to a mash, put to it melted butter, 
 pass it through a sieve, and add to it 
 white sauce, or use the latter solely, in 
 which case put a little mushroom-pow- 
 der into it ; the same forcemeat may be 
 used, or the ears may be served without. 
 They likewise eat well, cut into slices, 
 served in white or brown gravy. In the 
 latter case, fry them before stewing in 
 gravy. 
 
 630. CALVES' BRAINS. 
 Remove all the large fibres and skin ; 
 soak them in warm water for four hours ; 
 blanch them for ten minutes in boiling 
 water, with a little salt and vinegar in it ; 
 then soak them three hours in lemon- 
 juice in which a bit of chervil has been 
 steeped ; dry them well, dip them in bat- 
 ter, and fry them. Make hot a ladleful 
 of glaze, some extremely small onions 
 browned in butter, artichoke bottoms 
 divided in half, and some mushroom- 
 buttons, and serve round the brains ; or, 
 after preparing as above, serve in a rich 
 white acidulated sauce, with lemon-juice 
 or tomato-sauce. 
 
 Or: Blanch the brains, and beat 
 them up with an egg, pepper, and salt, a 
 small quantity of chopped parsley, and a 
 piece of butter. Make them into small 
 
 cakes, put them into a small frying-pan, 
 and fry them. 
 
 Or: Prepare them as above; wet 
 with egg, and sprinkle crumbs, salt, pep- 
 per, and chopped parsley, and finish 
 dressing in a Dutch oven. Serve with 
 melted butter, with or without a little 
 mushroom-ketchup. 
 
 681. CROQUETTES OF BRAINS. 
 Take calf s brains, blanch, and beat 
 them up with one or two chopped sage- 
 leaves, a little pepper and salt, a few 
 bread-crumbs soaked in milk, and an egg 
 beaten; roll them into balls, and fry 
 them. 
 
 632. CEKVELLES DE VEATJ AF MARI- 
 NADE. 
 
 Cut a carrot, a turnip, and an onion 
 into pieces; let them stew in a little 
 butter ; then add a bundle of sweet herbs, 
 and pour over them a pint of vinegar 
 and water in equal parts ; then strain the 
 liquor, and pour it over calves' brains 
 cleaned and blanched ; let them stew in 
 it till they are firm, then fry them in 
 butter, and serve up with crisped parsley. 
 
 633. CERVELLES DE VEATJ FRICASSEES. 
 
 Having cleaned and blanched the 
 brains, render them white and firm by 
 squeezing lemon-juice over them; then 
 put them into a stewpan with a piece of 
 butter ; stew slowly, that they may not 
 brown; dredge in a small quantity of 
 flour ; add a bunch of parsley, and one of 
 chives; moisten with clear veal broth; let 
 the brains stew until they are firm ; then 
 send them up in the sauce, thickened 
 with a little cream and flour and butter. 
 
 634. FRIED LIVER AND BACON, ETC. 
 
 Cut the liver rather thin, say about 
 half an inch thick, but first soak it ia 
 warm water about one hour; chop a 
 quantity of parsley, season it with pep- 
 per, and lay it thick upon the liver; cut 
 
290 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 slices of bacon, and fry both together, 
 but put the bacon first into the pan; add 
 a little lemon-pickle to the gravy made 
 by pouring the fat out of the pan, flour- 
 ing, and adding boiling water. 
 
 Or : Cut the liver in handsome pieces, 
 lard them very nicely, and chop some 
 parsley and spread it over the surface 
 with a little pepper and salt ; put a small 
 piece of butter well mixed with flour in 
 the bottom of a stewpan, and put in the 
 liver, and allow it to stew gently in its 
 own juices until it is done enough. 
 
 685. TO DRESS LIVER AND LIGHTS. 
 
 Half boil an equal quantity of each ; 
 then cut them- into a middling-size mince ; 
 put to it a spoonful or two of the water 
 they were boiled in, a bit of butter, flour, 
 salt, and pepper; simmer ten minutes, 
 and serve hot. 
 
 686. TO DRESS CALF'S HEART. 
 
 Stuff and roast the same as beef heart ; 
 or, being sliced and seasoned, make it 
 into a pudding as directed for steak or 
 kidney pudding. It may be either roast- 
 ed or baked, but in either way should be 
 well basted, stuffed with forcemeat as 
 for veal, but made rather more savory, 
 and served up in the same manner as 
 beef heartj 
 
 When the kidney is cut from the loin 
 and dressed separately, chop the kidney, 
 with some of the fat ; likewise a little 
 leek or onion, pepper, and salt. Veal 
 forcemeat may also be used, but it rather 
 weakens the pungency of the seasoning. 
 Roll it up with an egg into balls, and 
 fry them. 
 
 63T. SWEETBREADS. 
 
 *For every mode of dressing, sweet- 
 breads should be prepared by blanching, 
 or rather parboiling them. 
 
 They may be larded and braised ; and, 
 
 being of themselves rather insipid, they 
 will be improved by a relishing sauce, 
 and by a large quantity of herbs in the 
 braise. Slices of lemon put upon the 
 sweetbreads while braising, will heighten 
 the flavor and keep them white, which 
 is very desirable when sent to table with 
 white sauce. Stuffed with oysters, they 
 make a very good vol-au-vent. 
 
 688. SWEETBREADS A LA DAUBE. 
 
 Blanch two or three of the largest 
 sweetbreads ; lard them ; put them into 
 a stewpan. with some good veal gravy, 
 a little browning, and the juice of half 
 a lemon ; stew them till quite tender, 
 and just before serving thicken with 
 flour and butter-; glaze them; serve 
 with their gravy, with bunches of boiled 
 celery round the dish. 
 
 689. SWEETBREADS STEWED. 
 
 After blanching, stuff them with a 
 forcemeat of fowl, fat and lean bacon, an 
 anchovy, nutmeg, lemon-peel, parsley, 
 and a very little cayenne and thyme; 
 when well mixed, add the yolks of two 
 eggs, and fill the sweetbreads. Fasten 
 them together with splinter-skewers, and 
 lay them in a pan, with slices of veal 
 over, and bacon under them; season 
 with pepper and salt, mace, cloves, herbs, 
 and sliced onion; cover close over the 
 fire ten minutes, then add a quart of 
 broth, and stew gently two hours ; take 
 out the sweetbreads, strain and skim the 
 broth, and boil it to half a pint ; warm 
 the sweetbreads in it, and serve with 
 lemon round. 
 
 640. -FRIED. 
 
 Cut them in slices about three-quar- 
 ters of an inch thick, dry and flour, egg 
 them, and dip them in fine bread-crumbs ; 
 fry them of a light brown ; serve on 
 spinach, endive, or sorrel ; or cut some 
 
VEAL. 
 
 291 
 
 toasted bread, dish them on it, and serve 
 them with a sauce piquante. 
 
 For an invalid, boil them well, cover 
 them with bread-crumbs, a little pepper 
 and salt, with a small bit of butter ; 
 brown them lightly with a salamander. 
 
 641. ROASTED. 
 
 Blanch, dry, egg and bread-crumb 
 them ; pass a small skewer through each ; 
 tie on a spit ; roast gently ; baste with 
 fresh butter ; serve nicely frothed, and a 
 mushroom sauce under them. 
 
 642. SWEETBREADS FKICASSEED WHITE. 
 
 Blanch and slice them; thicken some 
 veal gravy with flour and butter mixed ; 
 a little cream ; a little mushroom pow- 
 der, and add white pepper, nutmeg, and 
 grated lemon-peel; stew these ingredi- 
 ents together a little, then simmer the 
 sweetbreads twenfy minutes. When 
 taken off the fire, add a little salt and 
 lemon-peel ; stir well, and serve. 
 
 648. IF FRICASSEED BROWN, 
 
 Cut them about the size of a walnut, 
 flour, and fry them of a fine brown ; 
 pour to them a good beef gravy, season- 
 ed with salt, pepper, cayenne, and all- 
 spice ; simmer till tender ; thicken with 
 flour and butter. Morels, truffles, and 
 mushrooms may be added, and mush- 
 room ketchup. 
 
 644. CROQUETTES. 
 
 Take two sweetbreads or half a pound 
 of roast veal, one onion chopped fine, 
 mixed with a small piece of butter, one 
 egg, and a little cream; season with 
 white pepper, cayenne, and salt. This 
 will make eight or nine croquettes. Roll 
 them in egg and then in bread-crumbs ; 
 fry them in lard a nice brown color; 
 strew them in a circle round the dish, and 
 serve fried parsley hi the centre. 
 
 Cold veal chopped, and stewed in a 
 little gravy, and when cold made up as 
 above, makes excellent rissoles. 
 
 645. TO ROAST SWEETBREADS. 
 
 Sweetbreads should be soaked in warm 
 water, and then blanched by being 
 thrown into boiling water, boiled for a 
 few minutes, and then put into cold 
 water. They may then be larded and 
 roasted or fried, and afterwards stewed 
 in butter with crumbs of bread. Sweet- 
 breads may also be larded and braised, 
 and being of themselves rather insipid, 
 they will be improved by a relishing 
 sauce and by a large quantity of herbs 
 in the braise. Skins of lemon put upon 
 the sweetbreads while braising will 
 heighten the flavor, and keep them white ; 
 which is very desirable when sent to 
 table with white sauce. The usual sauce 
 with which they are served is butter and 
 mushroom ketchup. They may be roast- 
 ed in a Dutch oven. 
 
 646. CERVELLE DE VEAU A LA MAlTRE 
 D' HOTEL. 
 
 Let them be prepared. Cut some bread 
 into the shape of cocks'-combs, which 
 fry in butter till of a fine color. Dish 
 them between each half of the brains, 
 which you have divided, and cover the 
 brains over with a maitre d' h6tel sauce, 
 two spoonfuls of bechamel, a small bit of 
 fresh butter, some parsley chopped fine, 
 the juice of half a lemon, and let it be 
 well seasoned. 
 
 647. TONGUE, ETC. 
 
 Neat's tongue should be boiled full 
 three hours. If it has been in salt long, 
 it is well to soak it over night in cold 
 water. Put it to boil when the water is 
 cold. If you boil it in a small pot, it is 
 well to change the water, when it has 
 boiled an hour and a half; the fresh 
 water should boil before the half-cooked 
 
292 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 tongue is put in again. It is nicer for 
 being kept in a cool place a day or two 
 after being boiled. Nearly the same 
 rules apply to salt beef. A six pound 
 piece of corned beef should boil full three 
 hours ; and salt beef should be boiled 
 four hours. 
 
 648. CROQUETS OF SWEETBREAD. 
 (French Receipt.) 
 
 Take such sweetbreads as have already 
 been served, cut them into as small dice 
 as possible. Have some good veloute 
 boiled down ready. Throw the dice of 
 sweetbreads into the veloute, and give 
 them a boil, that they may taste of the 
 sauce. Then lay them on a plate to 
 cool. When cold, roll them into any 
 shape you like, round, oval, or long. Of 
 all things avoid giving them the shape of 
 pears, as some persons do, for in that 
 case they must be more handled, without 
 at all improving the quality. Serve up 
 with parsley, fried green, in the middle. 
 If you have some mushrooms left in the 
 larder, cut some likewise in dice, and 
 mix them with the croquets. 
 
 649. ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAU AUX 
 POIS, OR SCOLLOPS OF SWEETBREADS 
 WITH GREEN PEAS. 
 
 Take four fine sweetbreads, let them 
 disgorge, and blanch them thoroughly. 
 Next, cut them into scollops, as large as 
 possible. Mark them in a saut-pan, or 
 fryingpan, with melted butter and a little 
 salt. A quarter of an hour before you 
 send up, fry them lightly over a stove, 
 with a clear fire ; turn them round, and 
 when done, drain the butter, and put a 
 little glaze into the pan. Keep stirring 
 the sweetbreads in the glaze ; dish them 
 miroton way, and send up the peas in 
 the middle. 
 
 When you have sweetbreads left at 
 table, cut them into scollops, make them 
 hot in a little light glaze, and after hav- 
 
 ing dished them miroton way, mask them 
 with the peas. Scollops of sweetbreads 
 are easier to dress when you put them 
 between a slice of fried bread cut round, 
 and the green peas in the middle ; with- 
 out the fried bread they do not keep 
 the shape in which, you dish them. 
 
 650.-FOIE DE VEAU 1 LA POELE, OR SCOL- 
 LQPS OF CALF'S LIVER WITH FINE 
 HERBS. 
 
 Take a nice calf s liver as white as 
 possible, cut it into slices of a good 
 and equal shape. Dip them in the 
 flour, and fry them in a black fryingpan, 
 of a nice color, with a little butter. 
 When they are done, put them in a dish, 
 and take some fine herbs which you have 
 previously chopped fine, such as pars- 
 ley, shalots, mushrooms, &c. Stew them 
 slowly on the fire with a little butter, 
 and when the herbs are sufficiently done 
 add a teaspoonful of flour, and moisten 
 with gravy, if you have any, or with 
 water, and add a small bit of glaze. 
 When done, put the liver in the sauce, 
 which warm, but do not allow it to boil ; 
 add a little salt, pepper, lemon, and serve 
 very hot. 
 
 This is again a common dish, yet it is 
 very palatable. You may put the liver 
 in the sauce ; but mind that it does not 
 boil. It is a dish for a breakfast a la 
 fourchette. 
 
 651.-CALF'S HEAD. 
 
 Let the head be thoroughly cleaned, the 
 brains and tongue be taken out, boil it in 
 a cloth to keep it white, (it is as well to 
 soak the head for two or three hours pre- 
 viously to boiling, it helps to improve 
 the color,) wash, soak, and blanch the 
 brains, then boil them, scald some sage, 
 chop it fine, add pepper, salt, and a little 
 milk, mix it with the brains ; the tongue, 
 which should be soaked in salt and 
 water for twenty-four hours, should be 
 
VEAL. 
 
 293 
 
 boiled, peeled, and served on a separate 
 dish. The head should boil until tender, 
 and if intended to be sent to table plainly, 
 should be served as taken up. with melt- 
 ed butter and parsley ; if otherwise, when 
 the head is boiled sufficiently tender, 
 take it up, spread over a coat of the yolk 
 of egg well beaten up, powder with bread- 
 crumbs, and brown before the fire in a 
 Dutch or American oven. * 
 
 652 CALF'S HEAD BAKED. 
 
 Butter the head, and powder it with a 
 seasoning composed of bread-crumbs, very 
 fine, a few sweet herbs and sage, chopped 
 very fine, cayenne, white pepper, and salt. 
 Divide the brains into several pieces, not 
 too small, sprinkle them with bread- 
 crumbs, and lay them in the dish with 
 the head. Stick a quantity of small 
 pieces of butter over the head and in the 
 eyes, throw crumbs over all, pour in 
 three parts of the dish full of water, and 
 bake in a fast oven two hours. 
 
 658. CHITTEELINGS, 
 
 Or calf's tripe, stewed tender and serv- 
 ed on toast with a sauce of onions boiled 
 and mashed in milk, with butter added, 
 form a nice dish. They are eaten with 
 pepper and vinegar. 
 
 654.-HASHED CALF'S HEAD. 
 
 Put into a stewpan one table-spoonful 
 of chopped onions, and three of vinegar, 
 take the remains of the head which cut 
 into slices, place them on a dish, add a 
 table-spoonful of flour to them, a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, a quarter of one of 
 pepper, put the stewpan on the fire to 
 boil for one minute, add the pieces of 
 head, and moisten with half a pint of broth, 
 water, or milk; let it simmer for ten 
 minutes and serve on toast or plain, or 
 with sippets round. The addition of a 
 few gherkins sliced or any mixed pickle 
 is an improvement. A little thyme or 
 bay -leaf, if at hand, may" be added. If 
 19 
 
 with water or gravy a little Coloring will 
 improve the appearance. This receipt is 
 for one pound of meat. It may also be 
 warmed in curry-sauce, and is excellent 
 
 655. CALF'S HEAD A LA TOKTUE. 
 
 Bone a calf s head whole ; after being 
 well scalded and cleaned cut off the ears, 
 take out the tongue, cut the gristle and 
 bones from the tongue ; prepare a good 
 forcemeat, add some chopped truffles into 
 it, and some mushrooms ; lay the head on 
 a clean cloth on the dresser, spread it 
 thickly over with the forcemeat, blanch 
 and take off the skin of the tongue ; cut 
 each ear in half longways, place them in 
 different parts on the forcemeat and the 
 tongue in the middle, lap it over keeping 
 it high in the middle, tie the ends, and 
 brace it all over tightly with some loose 
 string, as by doing so it will leave all the 
 marks appearing when glazed like the 
 back shell of turtle, then tie it up in a 
 cloth; it will take some hours to boil; 
 when done, which will be in your second 
 stock', take it up and take off the cloth, 
 put it upon the dish, dry it and glaze it 
 several times ; have ready cut from the 
 crumb of bread the form of a turtle's 
 head and the four fins, fry them a nice 
 light brown, and glaze them with the 
 head, placing them to the head on the 
 dish, as to look like a turtle crawling, for 
 the eyes use whites of hard boiled eggs j 
 a sauce you will find among the sauces. 
 
 656. CALF'S HEAD. 
 
 Choose one thick and fat, but not too 
 large ; soak for ten minutes in lukewarm 
 water, then well powder with rosin, have 
 plenty of scalding water ready, dip in 
 the head, holding it by the ear, scrape 
 the hair off with the back of a knife, 
 which will come off easily if properly 
 scraped, without scratching the cheek ; 
 when perfectly clean, take the eyes out, 
 saw it in two lengthwise, through the 
 skull, without spoiling the brain, which 
 
294 
 
 THE PEACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 take carefully out, and put to disgorge for 
 a few hours in lukewarm water ; pull the 
 tongue out, break the jaw-bone, and re- 
 move the part which contains the teeth, 
 put the head into plenty of water to dis- 
 gorge for one hour ; make the following 
 stock and boil for about two hours and a 
 half, and it will be ready to serve. 
 
 The stock is made by putting into a 
 braising-pan two carrots, three onions, a 
 quarter of a pound of butter, six cloves, 
 a bouquet of parsley, thyme, and bay- 
 leaves ; set it on the fire for about twenty 
 minutes, keep stirring it round, then add 
 a pint of water, and when warm mix a 
 quarter of a pound of flour, add a gallon 
 of water, one lemon in slices, and a quar- 
 ter of a pound of salt, then lay the head 
 in ; take care it is well covered, or the 
 part exposed will turn dark; simmer 
 gently till tender. 
 
 657. BIS DE VEAU EN CAISSES. 
 
 Blanch three sweetbreads, and simmer 
 m a strong, well flavored gravy till quite 
 done. Have ready three found pieces of 
 white paper oiled, and lay them thereon ; 
 having left them lightly wetted with 
 gravy, sprinkle over them the finest 
 crumbs or raspings of bread, pepper, salt, 
 and a very little nutmeg ; do them slowly 
 on a gridiron, and serve in the cases. 
 Any of the vegetable sauces may be 
 served with them. 
 
 658. GAKNITUEE EN KAGOUT. 
 
 Having prepared and blanched sweet- 
 breads of veal or lamb (house-lamb is the 
 best), liver of lamb and rabbits, truffles 
 and mushrooms, simmer gently half an 
 hour in rich veal broth ; then divide the 
 several articles into fit bits for helping, 
 and stew the whole until very tender. 
 If, when finished, the gravy wants con- 
 sistence, boil up in it a good piece of 
 butter rolled in flour. Season it fifteen 
 minutes before serving, with white pep- 
 
 per, salt, and nutmeg only. Have ready 
 and hot, forcemeat balls, in which finely 
 scraped ham, beef suet, the breast of a 
 fowl, or cold veal, are the principal ingre- 
 dients. 
 
 It may be served in a tureen as soup, 
 or in an ornamented crust previously 
 baked. If to be white, beat as many 
 yolks of eggs as the quantity may re- 
 quire, ancj, simmer in the ragout two 
 minutes : it must not boil. Sometimes 
 one or two whole pigeons, nicely pre- 
 pared, form a part of this much admired 
 dish, which in one way or other is rarely 
 omitted on weM. covered tables. 
 
 659. YEAL CAKE. 
 
 Bone a breast of veal, and cut it in 
 slices ; cut also slices of ham or lean ba- 
 con, and boil six eggs hard ; butter a 
 deep pan, and place the whole in layers 
 one over the other, cutting the eggs in 
 slices, and seasoning with chopped herbs 
 and cayenne pepper, and wetting the 
 herbs with anchovy or other highly-fla- 
 vored sauce. Cover up the whole, let it 
 bake for four hours, and when taken 
 from the oven, lay a weight upon it to 
 press it well together. When cold, turn 
 it out. 
 
 $r 
 
 * 660. ANOTHER. 
 
 Boil six or eight eggs hard ; cut the 
 yolks in two, and lay some of the pieces 
 in the bottom of the pan ; shake in a lit- 
 tle chopped parsley, some slices of veal 
 and ham, and then eggs again, shaking in 
 after each some chopped parsley, with 
 pepper and salt, till the pan is full. Then 
 put in water enough to cover it, and lay 
 on it about an ounce of butter ; tie it 
 down with a double paper, and bake it 
 about an hour. Then press it close to- 
 gether with a spoon, and let it stand till 
 cold. It may be put into a small mould, 
 and then it will turn out beautifully for 
 a supper or side dish. 
 
VEAL. 
 
 295 
 
 661. ANOTHER. 
 
 Chop very finely cold dressed veal and 
 ham or bacon ; mix it with a slice of 
 bread-crumb soaked in milk, two onions 
 chopped and browned, a little salt, pep- 
 per, and an egg beaten. Put all these 
 ingredients into a stewpan until they are 
 hot and are well mixed ; then oil or but- 
 ter a mould, put in the whole, and bake 
 it in an oven until it is brown ; then take 
 ijt out, and send it to table with fresh 
 gravy. 
 
 662. VEAL BOLLS 
 
 Are cut from any cold joint, or pre- 
 pared in the same manner from the raw 
 meat. Cut thin slices, and spread on 
 them a fine seasoning of a very few 
 crumbs, a little chopped or scraped bacon, 
 parsley and shalot, some fresh mush- 
 rooms stewed and minced, pepper, salt, 
 and a small piece of pounded mace. This 
 stuffing may either fill* up the roll like a 
 sausage, or be rolled, with the meat. In 
 either case, tie it up very tight, and stew 
 very slowly in a gravy and a glass of 
 sherry. Serve it when tender, after 
 skimming it nicely. 
 
 663. BLANQUETTES. 
 
 Melt a piece of butter the size of a 
 walnut in a stewpan ; then put in a little 
 thyme, parsley, or any herbs you like the 
 flavor- of, and a little onion, all chopped 
 fine, with a pinch of flour. Brown the 
 herbs ; add pepper and salt, with a clove 
 or two. Then put in cold or undressed 
 veal, cut in thin slices the size of half a 
 crown; add gravy or "broth, half a pint, 
 or according to the quantity of meat you 
 want to dress. It should not be too large 
 a dish. Let it stew very gently over a 
 stove ; if of dressed meat, one hour will 
 be sufficient; add half a teacupful of 
 cream, and stir it well together for a few 
 minutes ; then take it up, and before you 
 turn it out have two yolks of eggs well 
 beaten, and add to your dish. Give it a 
 
 few shakes over the fire. It must not 
 boil, or it will curdle. 
 
 Or : Cut rabbits, fowl, veal, or lobster 
 in pieces, steep them (except the veal and 
 fish) in water for half an hour, changing 
 the water. Put some butter in a stewpan 
 to melt, but do not let it fry ; put in the 
 meat with a very little flour, and keep 
 shaking it well ; pour in by degrees some 
 broth made of white meat, add a bunch 
 of parsley, an onion, salt, mace, and white 
 pepper. Stew it well a quarter of an 
 hour before it is dished; take out the 
 parsley and onion, and add some raw 
 parsley chopped, and the yolk of an egg 
 and cream beaten together. You must 
 never cease shaking the pan until the 
 blanquette is put over the dish. 
 
 664. VEAL 1 LA CHARTREUSE. 
 Line a copper mould with fat bacon, 
 lay sliced carrots and turnips round the 
 edges, then cover with a forcemeat, and 
 put in a fricassee of veal or fowl. Cover 
 the top of the mould with a paste, steam 
 it an hour, and serve it turned out upon a 
 dish. 
 
 665. TO MARBLE VEAL. 
 
 Boil tender, skin, and cut a dried 
 neat's tongue in thin slices, and beat it as 
 fine as possible, with half a pound of 
 butter and some mace pounded. Have 
 ready some roasted fillet of veal, beaten 
 with butter, and seasoned with white 
 pepper and salt ; of this put a thick layer 
 in a large potting-pot, then put in the 
 tongue, in rough irregular lumps, not to 
 touch each other; fill up the pot with 
 veal, and press it down quite close. Pour 
 clarified butter thick over ; keep in a dry 
 cool place, and serve in thin slices, taking 
 off the butter. Garnish with parsley. 
 
 666. SCALLOPS OF COLD VEAL. 
 
 Mince the meat extremely small, and 
 set it over the fire, with a scrape of nut- 
 meg, a little pepper and salt, and a little 
 
296 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 cream, for a few minutes ; then put it 
 into the scallop-shells, and fill them with 
 crumbs of bread, over which put some 
 bits of butter, and brown them before 
 the fire. 
 
 Either veal or chicken looks and eats 
 well prepared in this way, and lightly 
 covered with crumbs of bread fried ; or 
 these may be put on in little heaps. 
 
 667. TO MINCE VEAL. 
 
 f 
 
 Cut cold veal as fine as possible, but do 
 not chop it ; put to it a very little lemon- 
 peel shred, two grates of nutmeg, some 
 salt, and four or five spoonfuls of either 
 broth, milk, or water; simmer these 
 gently with the meat, but take care not 
 to let it boil, and add a bit of butter 
 rubbed in flour. Put sippets of thin 
 toasted bread, cut into a three-cornered 
 shape, round the dish. Fried crumbs of 
 bread lightly strewed over, or served in 
 little heaps on the meat, are an improve- 
 ment to the look and flavor. A little 
 shred of shalot may occasionally be added. 
 
 Or : Stew a few small mushrooms in 
 their own liquor and a bit of butter a 
 quarter of an hour ; mince them very 
 small, and add them (with their liquor) 
 to minced veal, with also a little pepper 
 and salt, some cream, and a bit of butter 
 rubbed in less than half a teaspoonful of 
 flour. Simmer three or four minutes, and 
 serve on thin sippets of bread. 
 
 668. THE TUEKISH MODE 
 
 Take equal quantities of cold dressed 
 veal, minced very fine, fat, and crumbs of 
 bread, and season it well ; add chopped 
 oni ons, parsley, salt, and cayenne pepper ; 
 wet it with one or two eggs, according to 
 the quantity, adding, if necessary, a little 
 cold melted butter; make the mixture 
 into balls or egg-shapes, and roll them in 
 as much boiled rice as they will take 
 round them. Stew them for an hour and 
 a half in good gravy, well seasoned, and 
 serve them up in it. 
 
 In all these modes, the addition may 
 be made of sauce aux truffes, or any of 
 the approved sauces ; and a squeeze of 
 lemon will in all cases be found to give a 
 pleasing zest to their flavor. 
 
 669. CUEKY OP VEAL. 
 Cut part of a breast of veal in moderate 
 sized pieces, put it in a stewpan with an 
 onion and a shalot sliced fine, a slice of 
 lemon, one ounce of butter, a little pars- 
 ley and thyme, and a table-spoonful of 
 curry-powder mixed with the same quan- 
 tity of flour; add sufficient broth or 
 water for the sauce ; let it boil gently 
 till the veal is done; strain the sauce 
 through a sieve, pour it over the veal 
 quite hot, and serve with rice in a sepa- 
 rate dish. 
 
 670. A BOAST BEEF OF LAMB* 
 
 Take the saddle and the two legs of a 
 lamb, cut on the middle of each leg a 
 small rosette, which is to be larded, as 
 also the fillets. Roast the whole, and 
 glaze the larded parts of a good color. 
 In France it is served up with maitre 
 d'hdtel sauce, but in England with gravy 
 under it, and mint-sauce in a boat. 
 
 MUTTOK 
 
 THIS is a delicate and a favorite meat. 
 It is susceptible of many modes of cook- 
 ing, and should always be served very 
 hot and with very^hot plates, except of 
 course in cases where it may be sent to 
 table as a cold dish. It is a meat which 
 
 *The appellation of "roast beef of lamb" must 
 sound very extraordinary to an American ear, but the 
 singularity of the name is as nothing when com- 
 pared with the importance and necessity of the dish. 
 At a very great dinner, it is essential to have some 
 dish of magnitude. This has a very good appearance, 
 and is truly excellent. I beg to recommend the 
 trial of a maitre d'hotel sauce under, as the butter 
 parsley, salt, pepper, and lemon-juice, agree weL 
 with the gravy of the meat. UDE. 
 
MUTTON. 
 
 297 
 
 requires care in the cooking, which it will 
 amply repay. The roasting parts are the 
 better for hanging some time, especially 
 the haunch or saddle, but not for boiling, 
 as the color is apt to be injured. One of 
 the most favorite dishes is the 
 
 671. HAUNCH OF MUTTON. 
 
 The haunch should be hung as long as 
 possible without being tainted ; it should 
 be washed with vinegar every day while 
 hanging, and dried thoroughly after each 
 washing ; if the weather be muggy rub- 
 bing with sugar will prevent its turning 
 sour; if warm weather, pepper and ground 
 ginger rubbed over it will keep off the 
 flies. 
 
 When ready for roasting, paper the fat, 
 commence roasting some distance from 
 the fire, baste with milk and water first, 
 and then when the fat begins dripping, 
 change the dish and baste with its own 
 dripping; half an hour previous to its 
 being done remove the paper from the 
 fat, place it closer to the fire, baste well, 
 serve with currant jelly. 
 
 6T2. TO STUFF A LEG OF MUTTON. 
 
 Take a leg of mutton, cut off all the 
 fat, take the bone carefully out and pre- 
 serve the skin whole ; take out the meat 
 and mince it fine, and mix and mince with 
 it about one pound of fat bacon and 
 some parsley ; season the whole well with 
 pepper and salt, and a small quantity of 
 eschalot or chives chopped fine ; then put 
 the meat into the skin and sew it up 
 neatly on the under side ; tie it up in a 
 cloth and put it into a stewpan with two 
 or three slices of veal, some sliced carrots 
 and onions, a bunch of parsley, and a 
 few slices of fat bacon ; let it stew for 
 three or four hours, and drain the liquor 
 through a fine sieve ; when reduced to a 
 glaze, glaze the mutton with it and serve 
 in stewed French beans. 
 
 673. TO DBESS A LEG OF MUTTON WITH 
 OYSTEE8. 
 
 Parboil some fine well-fed oysters, take 
 off the beards and horny parts ; put to 
 them some parsley, minced onion, and 
 sweet herbs, boiled and chopped fine, and 
 the yolks of two or three hard boiled 
 eggs. Mix all together, and cut five or 
 six holes in the fleshy part of a leg o 
 mutton, and put in the mixture; and 
 dress it in either of the following ways : 
 Tie it up in a cloth and let it boil 
 gently two and a half or three hours, ac- 
 cording to the size. 
 
 Or : Braise it } and serve with a pun- 
 gent brown sauce. 
 
 674. SADDLE OF MUTTON. 
 
 This joint, like the haunch, gains much 
 of its flavor from hanging for some pe- 
 riod. The skin should be taken off, but 
 skewered on again until within rather 
 more than a quarter of an hour of its 
 being done; then let it be taken off, 
 dredge the saddle with flour, baste well. 
 The kidneys may be removed or remain 
 at pleasure, but the fat which is found 
 within the saddle should be removed 
 previous to cooking. 
 
 675. LEG OF MUTTON BOASTED, 
 Like the haunch and saddle, should be 
 hung before cooking, should be slowly 
 roasted and served with onion sauce or 
 currant jelly. 
 
 676. EOAST LEG OF MUTTON. ANOTHEE 
 EECEIPT. 
 
 Put the leg into an iron saucepan with 
 enough cold water to cover it, let it come 
 to a boil gently, parboil it by simmering 
 only ; have the spit or jack ready, and 
 take it from the hot water and put it to 
 the fire instantly; it will take from an 
 hour to an hour and a half if large, and 
 less time if small. 
 
 677 EOAST LEG OF MUTTON BONED AND 
 STUFFED. 
 
 The principal skill required in accom- 
 
298 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 plishing this dish is the boning ; this must 
 be done with a very sharp knife. Com- 
 mence on the underside of the joint, 
 passing the knife under the skin until 
 exactly over the bone, then cut down to 
 it, pass the knife round close to the bone 
 right up to the socket, then remove the 
 large bone of the thickest end of the leg, 
 seeing the meat is clear of the bone ; you 
 may then draw out the remaining bones 
 easily. Put in the orifice a highly sea- 
 soned forcemeat, fasten the knuckle end 
 tightly over, replace the bone at the 
 base of the joint, and sew it in ; roast it 
 in a cradle spit or on a jack ; if the latter 
 let the knuckle end be downwards as it 
 is less likely to suffer the forcemeat to 
 drop out. It must be well basted, and 
 should be sent to table with a good 
 gravy. * 
 
 678. LEG OF MUTTON BOILED, 
 Should be first soaked for an hour and 
 a half in salt and water, care being taken 
 that the water be not too salt, then 
 wiped and boiled in a floured cloth ; the 
 time necessary for boiling will depend 
 upon the weight; two hours or two 
 hours and a half should be about the 
 time ; it should be served with turnips 
 mashed, potatoes, greens, and caper- 
 sauce, or brown cucumber, or oyster 
 sauce. 
 
 679.-LEG OF MUTTON BEAISED. 
 
 Procure a leg of mutton of choice fla- 
 vor, take off the knuckle neatly, divide it 
 into two or three pieces, trim the leg of 
 all the superfluous edges, and then half 
 roast it ; place it with the broken knuckle 
 in a stewpan, add the trimmings with 
 half a dozen slices of rich fat bacon, 
 thjftne, knotted marjoram, and other 
 sweet herbs, an onion stuck with cloves, 
 and about half an ounce of butter rolled 
 in flour; stew the whole gently, shaking 
 it occasionally and turn it while stewing; 
 when it is tender take it up, skim the 
 
 gravy, strain, boil it fast until reduced to 
 a glaze, make a puree or soup of vege- 
 tables and place the mutton upon it. cover 
 the mutton with the glaze, and serve. 
 
 680. TO SEND A LEG OF MUTTON NEATLY 
 TO TABLE WHICH HAS BEEN CUT FOE 
 A PEEVIOUS MEAL. 
 
 Too much must not have been cut from 
 the joint or it will not answer the pnr- 
 pose. Bone it, cut the meat as a fillet, 
 lay forcemeat inside, roll it, and lay it in 
 a stewpan with sufficient water to cover 
 it ; add various kinds of vegetables, onions, 
 turnips, carrots, parsley, &c., in small 
 quantities ; stew two hours, thicken the 
 gravy, serve the fillets with the vegetables 
 round it. 
 
 681. SADDLE OF MUTTON, A LA POLO- 
 NAISE. (Soyer's.) 
 
 This is my economical dish, par excel- 
 lence, and very much it is liked every 
 time I use it. Take the remains of a 
 saddle of mutton, of the previous day, cut 
 out all the meat close to the bone, leav- 
 ing about one inch wide on the outside, 
 cut it with a portion of the fat, into small 
 dice ; then put a spoonful of chopped 
 onions in a stewpan, with a little butter ; 
 fry one minute, add the meat, with a 
 table-spoonful of flour, season rather high 
 with salt, pepper, and a little grated nut- 
 meg ; stir round, and moisten with a gill 
 or a little more of broth, add a bay-leaf, 
 put it on the stove for ten minutes, add 
 two yolks of eggs, stir till rather thick, 
 make about two pounds of mashed pota- ' 
 toes firm enough to roll, put the saddle- 
 bone in the middle of the dish, and with 
 the potatoes form an edging round the 
 saddle, so as to give the shape of one, 
 leaving the middle empty ; fill it with your 
 mince meat, which ought to be enough to 
 do so; if you should not have enough 
 with the remains of the saddle, the re- 
 mains of any other joint of mutton may 
 be used ; egg all over, sprinkle bread- 
 
MUTTON. 
 
 299 
 
 crumbs around, put in rather a hot oven, 
 to get a nice yellow color, poach six eggs, 
 and place on the top, and serve brown 
 gravy round ; white or brown sauce, if 
 at hand, is an improvement. You may 
 easily fancy the economy of this well- 
 looking and good dish ; the remains of a 
 leg, shoulder, loin, neck of mutton, and 
 lamb, may be dressed the same way, keep- 
 ing their shape of course. 
 
 682. SOYER'S NEW MUTTON CHOP. 
 
 Trim a middling-sized saddle of mut- 
 ton, which cut into chops half an inch in 
 thickness with a saw, without at all 
 making use of a knife (the sawing them 
 off jagging the meat and causing them to 
 eat more tender,) then trim them into 
 shape ; season well with salt and pep- 
 per, place them upon a gridiron over 
 a sharp fire, turning them three or four 
 times ; they would require ten min- 
 utes' booking; when done dress them 
 upon a hot dish, spread a small piece 
 of butter over each, (if approved of.) 
 and serve ; by adding half a table-spoonful 
 of good sauce to each chop when serving, 
 and turning it over two or three times, 
 an excellent entree is produced : the bone 
 keeping the gravy in whilst cooking, it is 
 a very great advantage to have chops cut 
 after this method. At home, when I 
 have a saddle of mutton, I usually cut two 
 or three such chops, which I broil, rub 
 maitre-d'hdtel butter over, and serve with 
 fried potatoes round, using the remainder 
 of the saddle the next day for a joint. 
 The above are also very excellent, well 
 seasoned and dipped into egg and bread- 
 crumbs previous to broiling. Lamb chops 
 may be cut precisely the same, but re- 
 quire a few minutes' less broiling. 
 
 You must remark that, by this plan, 
 the fat and lean are better divided, and 
 you can enjoy both ; whilst the other is 
 a lump of meat near the bone and fat at 
 the other end, which partly melts in 
 
 cooking, and is often burnt by the flame 
 it makes ; the new one not being divided 
 at the bone, keeps the gravy in admirably. 
 If well sawed it should not weigh more 
 than the ordinary one, being about half 
 the thickness. Do try them, and let me 
 know your opinion. 
 
 688. NECK OF MUTTON 
 
 Is particularly useful, as many dishes 
 may be made of it. The best end of the 
 neck may be boiled for one hour and a 
 half, and served with turnips ; or roast- 
 ed; dressed in steaks; in pies; a-la- 
 Turc ; or en haricot. 
 
 The scrag may be stewed into broth ; 
 or with a small quantity of water, some 
 small onions, a few peppercorns, and a 
 little rice, and served together. 
 
 684.-SHOULDEB OF MUTTON 
 
 Must be well roasted and sent to table 
 with skin a nice brown; it is served 
 with onion sauce. This is the plainest 
 fashion, and for small families the best. 
 
 685. A SHOULDER OF MUTTON WITH 
 EICE. 
 
 Take a sHoulder of mutton and half 
 boil it, then put it into a stewpan, with 
 two quarts of mutton gravy, a quarter 
 of a pound of rice, a teaspoonful of musl^- 
 room powder, with a little beaten mace, 
 and stew it till the rice is tender ; then 
 take up the mutton and keep it hot ; put 
 to the rice half a pint of cream, .and a 
 piece of butter rolled in flour ; stir it 
 well round the pan, and let it boil a few 
 minutes; lay the mutton in the dish, 
 and pour the rice over it. 
 
 686. LOIN OF MUTTON STEWED. 
 
 Remove the skin, bone it, and then 
 roll it ; put it in a stewpan with a pint 
 and a half of water, two dessert-spoon- 
 
300 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 fuls of pyroligneous acid, a piece of but- 
 ter, sweet herbs, and an onion or two; 
 when it has stewed nearly four hours, 
 strain the gravy, add two spoonfuls of 
 red wine, take up and serve with jelly 
 sauce. 
 
 687. BEEAST OF MUTTON 
 
 May be stewed in gravy until tender, 
 bone it, score it, season well with cay- 
 enne, black pepper, and salt ; boil it, and 
 while cooking skim the fat from the 
 gravy in which it has been stewed, slice 
 a few gherkins, and add with a dessert- 
 spoonful of mushroom ketchup ; boil it, 
 and pour over the mutton when dished. 
 
 688. BEEAST OF MUTTON CEUMBED OE 
 GEATIN. 
 
 If one breast of mutton,- cut oif the 
 chine-bone down to the gristle ; if you 
 have a stock pot on, put the breast of 
 mutton into it, let it boil until tender, 
 then take it up to cool ; have ready as 
 for the crumbed cutlets, adding in the 
 butter and egg a little chopped mush- 
 room ; put it all over the breast with a 
 paste brush, then put it on a dish and 
 'in the oven to brown ; the sauce will be 
 under it when dished. 
 
 689. NECK OF MUTTON. 
 
 This dish is most useful for broth, but 
 may be made a pleasant dish by judi : 
 cious cooking. To send it to table merely 
 boiled or baked is to disgust the partaker 
 of it. When it is cooked as a single 
 dish, first boil it slowly until nearly 
 done, then having moistened a quantity 
 of bread-crumbs and sweet herbs, chop- 
 ped very fine, with the yolk of an egg, 
 let the mutton be covered with it, and 
 placed in a Dutch or American oven be- 
 fore the fire, and served when nicely 
 browned. The breast may be cooked in 
 the same manner. 
 
 690. STEAKS FKOM A LOIN OF MUTTON 
 Are done in the same way, only trim- 
 ming some of the fat oft'. Cut thick and 
 stew instead of frying them. 
 
 691. MUTTON STEAKS. 
 
 The steaks are cut from the thick or 
 fifiet end of a leg of mutton, and dressed 
 as rump steaks. 
 
 692. MUTTON CHOPS BEOILED. 
 
 Cut from the best end of the loin, trim 
 them nicely, removing fat or skin, leav- 
 ing only enough of the former to make 
 them palatable ; let the fire be very clear 
 before' placing the chops on the gridiron, 
 turn them frequently, taking care that 
 the fork is not put into the lean part of 
 the chop ; season them with pepper and 
 salt, spread a little fresh butter over each 
 chop when nearly done, and send them 
 to table upon very hot plates. 
 
 693. MUTTON CHOPS FEIED. 
 
 The fat in which the chops are to be 
 fried should be boiling when the chops 
 are put into it. They should be pared of 
 fat and well trimmed before cooking; 
 they should be turned frequently, and 
 when nicely browned they will be done ; 
 of course if they are very thick judg- 
 ment must be .exercised respecting the 
 length of time they will occupy in cook- 
 ing. 
 
 Mutton Chop. 
 
 I 
 694.-CHOPS AS BEEFSTEAKS. 
 
 Cut thick from a leg of mutton, and 
 rub each steak with a shalot ; boil over 
 a qu ck fire; rub your dish with shalot ; 
 when on the dish pepper and salt it ; 
 send it up quite hot. 
 
MUTTON. 
 
 301 
 
 695. MUTTON CUTLETS. 
 
 Loin chops make the best cutlets. 
 Take off the vertebraa or thickest end of 
 each bone and about an inch off the top 
 of the bone ; put the chops into a stew- 
 pan in which has been previously melt- 
 ed a little butter seasoned with salt ; 
 stew for a short time, but not until they 
 are brown, as that appearance is accom- 
 plished in another manner. Chop some 
 parsley very fine, add a little thyme, 
 mix it with sufficient yolk of egg to 
 coat the chops, which will have been 
 suffered to cool before this addition to 
 them; then powder them with bread- 
 crumbs over which a pinch of cayenne 
 pepper has been sprinkled; broil them 
 upon a gridiron over a clear but not a 
 brisk fire ; when they are brown dish 
 them ; lemon-juice may be squeezed over 
 them, or the dish in which they are serv- 
 ed may be garnished with thin slices of 
 lemon in halves and quarters. 
 
 696. MUTTON CUTLETS ANOTHER WAY. 
 
 Not a very fat neck, take off the scrag 
 and the breast bones, leaving the re- 
 mainder the length you intend the cut- 
 lets, then ta&e the chine bone clean off. 
 then the skin and some of the fat ; you 
 will now have the mutton free from 
 bones to cut your cutlets ; you will find 
 you can cut fourteen 'good cutlets from 
 this trimmed neck without any hacking ; 
 beat each cutlet with your beater, trim 
 them neatly ; be sure to cut out the pac- 
 wax, and leave a little fat to each cutlet. 
 If for gratin or bread crumbed, prepare 
 some chopped parsley and shalot, and 
 bread-crumbs ; put some butter to melt | 
 in a stewpan, a little of the parsley and ; 
 shalot and some yolk of egg, mix it well ; 
 up together ; put your bread-crumbs on 
 a sheet of paper, add to it a, little salt 
 and pepper , dip each cutlet into melted j 
 butter, put down the bread-crumbs with ! 
 
 your knife, lay them on a buttered saute- 
 pan until wanted to fry. 
 
 697.-CUTLETS SAUT& 
 
 Cut your neck of mutton precisely as 
 for the crumbed cutlets; have ready a 
 piece of butter melted in your saute-pan ; 
 dip each cutlet both sides in the butter ; 
 when required fry them a very light 
 color, pepper and salt them ; when done 
 take them up to drain from the fat, have 
 some good glaze melted, and glaze each 
 cutlet both sides ; dish them round with 
 or without a rim of mashed potato. 
 
 693. MUTTON CUTLETS MAINTENON. 
 
 Trim the cutlets as for former cutlets ; 
 half fry them, then cover them with fine 
 herbs and bread-crumbs, and season with 
 pepper and salt. Lay all to cool ; have 
 some fresh parsley to add to the already 
 fried herbs and shalot. When cool, 
 spread the butter and herbs thick upon 
 each cutlet; sprinkle them with bread- 
 crumbs ; wrap them in buttered foolscap 
 paper, and broil them over a slow fire 
 until done. 
 
 699. BEAISED CUTLETS. 
 
 Trim your mutton from the bones as 
 before ; then put it whole into a good 
 braise ; let it stew gently until tender ; 
 put it aside to get cold ; when so, cut 
 your cutlets as thick as the former ; trim 
 them neatly, make them hot and glaze 
 them. 
 
 TOO. FILLET OF MUTTON. 
 
 Choose a very large leg ; cut from four 
 to five inches in thickness from the large 
 end of the leg ; take out the bone, and in 
 its place put a highly savory forcemeat ; 
 flour and roast it for two hours. When 
 doije, it may be sent to table with the 
 same accompaniments as a fillet of veal, 
 
302 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 with melted butter poured over it, or a 
 rich brown gravy and red currant jelly. 
 
 701. FILLET OF MUTTON STEWED. 
 
 Cut and prepare stuff as above, flour 
 and brown in a little butter, and put it 
 into a stewpan with a pint and a half of 
 gravy ; with it a small bundle of sweet 
 herbs, two or three small onions, or eight 
 or ten small button onions peeled, a tea- 
 spoonful of whole black pepper; stew 
 slowly three hours and a half. The fillet 
 may be salted, and being half roasted may 
 be stewed with its trimmings. 
 
 702. FILLETS IN MAKINADE. 
 
 Cut from the loins of mutton ; pre- 
 pare some carrots, turnips, onions, and 
 celery, thyme, mace, cloves, and whole pep- 
 per ; cut up in thin slices ; boil a little vin- 
 egar and water, put your fillets in a deep 
 dish, pour the vinegar over the roots and 
 mutton when cold ; let it lie all night ; 
 next day trim neatly and braise them ; 
 take them out, and when required glaze 
 them, sauce under them. 
 
 708.-BLANQUETTE DE MOUTON 
 
 Is generally made from a former day's 
 saddle of mutton ; cutting out the fillets, 
 trimming it neatly, you will be able to 
 cut clearly pieces the size of a shilling, 
 which you will put into some good 
 sauce, you may then put two or three 
 gherkins into it ; this is dished better in 
 a tin. 
 
 704-HAKICOT OF MUTTON. 
 
 Cut a neck or loin of mutton into thin 
 chops ; flour and fry them brown in a 
 small quantity of butter ; drain them on 
 a sieve ; then put them into a stewpan 
 and cover them with gravy ; add a carrot, 
 two leeks, a faggot of parsley and thyme ; 
 two or three blades of mace, some all- 
 spice, a whole onion, and two turnips ; 
 stew them until the meat is tender j then 
 
 takfc out the chops, strain the gravy, and 
 skim off all the fat ; put a little butter 
 mixed with flour into the stewpan ; stir 
 it until melted and made quite smooth, 
 adding the gravy by degrees, stirring all 
 the time ; then put in the chops, with 
 some carrots and turnips ready blanched 
 and cut into pretty shapes, with a dozen 
 silver onions whole, and also half boiled 
 season slightl}' with pepper and salt, a 
 very little soy, and a teaspoonful of Tar- 
 ragon vinegar; stew the whole gently 
 for a quarter of an hour, and serve them 
 while quite hot. 
 
 705. MUTTON HAKICOT. 
 
 Take a loin of mutton, cut it into small 
 chops, season it with ground pepper, all- 
 spice and salt ; let it stand a night, and 
 then fry it. Have good gravy well sea- 
 soned with flour, butter, ketchup, and 
 pepper if necessary. Boil turnips and 
 carrots, cut them small,, and add to the 
 mutton, stewed in the gravy, with the 
 yolks of hard boiled eggs and forcemeat 
 balls. Some green pickles will be an im- 
 provement. 
 
 706. HAEICOT MUTTON ANOTHEE WAT. 
 
 Cut into chops the bes| end of the 
 neck of mutton ; fry them a light brown 
 in fat made boiling-hot before the chops 
 are put into it ; some pieces cut from the 
 neck will be the best, dredge them with 
 flour; sprinkle them with pepper and 
 salt, put in a stewpan three parts of a 
 pint of water, an onion stuck with cloves, 
 parsley, a few spring onions, and a bay- 
 leaf; stew gently till the meat is nearly 
 done, then add turnips and carrots cut 
 small; fry a large onion cut in slices 
 brown ; add it to the gravy, which when 
 just done must be thickened ; take out 
 the sweet herbs when the whole has 
 stewed an hour, and serve. 
 
 707. MUTTON KEBOBBED. 
 
 Take all the fat out of a loin of mut 
 
MUTTON. 
 
 303 
 
 ton, and that on the outside also if very 
 fat, and remove the skin ; cut it into 
 steaks ; mix a small nutmeg grated with 
 a little salt and pepper, crumbs, and 
 herbs ; dip the steaks into the yolks of 
 three eggs, and sprinkle the above mix- 
 ture all over them ; then place the steaks 
 together as they were before they were 
 cut asunder, tie them, and fasten them 
 on a small spit ; roast them at a quick 
 fire; set a dish under, and baste them 
 with a good piece of butter and the 
 liquor that comes* from the meat, but 
 throw some more of the above seasoning 
 over. When done enough, take it up, 
 and lay it in a dish ; have half a pint of 
 good gravy ready besides that in the dish, 
 and put into it two spoonfuls of ketchup, 
 and rub down a teaspoonful of flour with 
 it ; give this a boil, and pour it over the 
 mutton, but first skim off the fat. Mind 
 to keep the meat hot, till the gravy is 
 quite ready. 
 
 708. HASHED MUTTON. 
 
 This is a favorite method of disposing 
 of the cold shoulder, especially if it should 
 happen to be underdone ; cut' it into 
 slices, take the bones (if of a shoulder or 
 leg break them), and put them in a stew- 
 pan with the trimmings ; cover them 
 with water, put in a faggot of thyme, pars- 
 ley, whole pepper, allspice, &c., cover 
 down and simmer for three-quarters of an 
 hour ; while the bones, &c., are stewing, 
 fry an onion brown in a little butter and 
 flour ; put it into the stewpan with the 
 gravy, stew gently twenty minutes, strain 
 it, lay in the slices of mutton in the stew- 
 pan, pour over them the strained gravy ; 
 pour in a spoonful of walnut ketchup, or 
 any suitable preferred sauce, season it, 
 simmer until the meat is hot through, 
 dish and serve. 
 
 A spoonful of curry powder is some- 
 times added, and is always a palatable 
 addition. 
 
 709. IEISH STEW. 
 
 Cut a neck of mutton as for the hari- 
 cot ; blanch the chops in water ; take and 
 put them into another stewpan with four 
 onions cut in slices ; put to it a little of 
 your second stock, let it boil a quarter 
 of an hour; have ready some potatoes 
 pared ; put them into the stewpan with 
 the mutton, with salt and pepper; as 
 some like the potatoes whole and some 
 mashed as to thicken the stew, you must 
 boil them accordingly ; dish the meat 
 round and the vegetables in the middle. 
 
 710. CHINA CHILO. 
 
 Mince a pint basin of undressed neck 
 of mutton or leg, and some of the fat ; 
 put two onions, a lettuce, a pint of green 
 peas, a teaspoonful of pepper, four spoon- 
 fuls of water, and two or three ounces of 
 clarified butter into a stewpan closely 
 covered ; simmer two hours, and serve in 
 the middle of a dish of boiled rice; if 
 cayenne is approved, add a*little. 
 
 711.-CHINA CHILO ANOTHEE WAY. 
 
 Chop very fine two small young let- 
 tuces, two onions, a pint of green peas, 
 and a couple of young cucumbers, or the 
 fourth of a pint of mushrooms ; season 
 with a teaspoonful of salt and half a tea- 
 spoonful of pepper ; mince the meat of a 
 neck of mutton uncooked, and mix it with 
 the vegetables in a stewpan; add four 
 table-spoonfuls of water and two ounces 
 of butter, clarified will be proved the 
 best ; let them well amalgamate over a 
 slow fire ; keep them stirred for fifteen 
 minutes, then cover down close and sim- 
 mer very slowly for two hours ; serve it 
 in the centre of boiled rice. 
 
 712.-MINCED MUTTON. 
 
 Mince dressed meat very finely, season 
 it, make a very good gravy, warm -the 
 meat up in it, and serve with fried bread 
 round the dish, or with poached eggs. 
 
304 
 
 THE PBACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 Or : Mince cold leg of mutton freed 
 from the skin and fat, warm it with stew- 
 ed cucumbers, taking care that it does 
 not burn after the meat is put in. 
 
 713. AU GEATIN, OE AS SCALLOPS. 
 Mince dressed mutton with a very little 
 fat, season lightly with pepper and salt, 
 and put into scallop-shells about half full. 
 Then put potatoes mashed with a little 
 milk, and a very small bit of butter; 
 smooth with a spoon, and brown in a 
 Dutch oven. 
 
 714 AS EISSOLES. 
 
 Enclose the minced meat in a paste or 
 browning of egg and crumbs of bread, but 
 season it as if for forcemeat. 
 
 715. MUTTON LIKE VENISON. 
 
 A haunch or leg will be the most ap- 
 propriate. The joint should be hung as 
 long as it can be with safety, and dressed 
 exactly like a haunch of venison, and 
 served with the same sauces, but to make 
 the taste more perfectly resemble that of 
 venison it should, after having been hung 
 to the turn, be skinned, and laid in a 
 pan with vinegar and water ; two parts 
 of the former to one of the latter, not 
 enough to cover it; put in a fagot of 
 herbs, a clove of garlic, one or two bay- 
 leaves, a spoonful of whole pepper, and a 
 couple of onions cut in slices ; let it soak 
 three days, dry it well, hang it for a day 
 and roast as venison. It may also be put 
 into a stewpan w ith half a pint of gravy, 
 and simmered four hours; serve with 
 venison sauce. 
 
 716. TO MAKE A SCOTCH HAGGIS. 
 
 Take the stomach of a sheep. The 
 washing and cleaning is of more conse- 
 quence than all, as it will be of a bad color 
 and a bad taste if not well cleansed; 
 when clean, turn it inside out, then let it 
 lie for a day or two in salt and water. 
 Blanch the liver, lights, and heart of the 
 
 sheep, lay them in cold water, chop all 
 very fine ; the liver you had better grate, 
 chop a pound of the suet very fine, dry 
 in the oven a pound of oatmeal ; mix all 
 this well together, season with pepper and 
 salt, a little chopped parsley, and a little 
 chopped onion; then sew up the bag; 
 before you finish sewing it, add a few 
 spoonfuls of good white stock ; put it in 
 a stewpan with a drainer; boil it in 
 water, keeping it well covered all the 
 time, prick it all over with a small lard- 
 ing pin to keep it from bursting ; it will 
 take several hours to boil ; be careful hi 
 taking it up, and let your dish be large 
 enough. 
 
 717. EOGNON DE MOUTON A LA FEAN- 
 
 Take half a dozen fine mutton kidneys, 
 clear them of fat and skin, and cut them 
 into thin slices ; powder them immedi- 
 ately with sweet herbs in fine powder, 
 parsley which has been chopped, dried, 
 and powdered, cayenne, and salt: put 
 into a stewpan two ounces of clarified 
 butter or fresh if the former is not in 
 reach, *put in the slices of kidney, fry 
 them ; they will brown very quickly, they 
 must be done on both sides ; dredge flour 
 over them, moistpn with lemon juice ; in 
 five minutes the kidneys will be done ; 
 lift them out into a very hot dish around 
 which are laid sippets fried ; pour into 
 the gravy two glasses of champagne, give 
 it a boil, pour it over the kidneys, and 
 serve. 
 
 It may here be stated that the French 
 cooks vary constantly the herbs which 
 they employ, according to any known 
 preference for the palate of those for 
 whom they cook. Various kinds of 
 wines and sauces may be used for flavor- 
 ing, and this is constantly done as much 
 for variety and the ability of giving a new 
 name to a dish, which is varied only in 
 some Fuch small feature. 
 
MUTTON. 
 
 .305 
 
 718. LOIN OF MUTTON LIKE VENISON. 
 (French Eeceipt.) 
 
 Remove the skin from the joint and 
 bone it^and do it neatly ; lay it in a stew- 
 pan with about a pint of weak broth, an 
 onion stuck with cloves, two glasses of 
 red wine, and a teaspoonful of p} r rolig- 
 neous acid ; let it boil, put in a bundle of 
 sweet herbs ; stew, turning frequently ; 
 add as ^it progresses a little gravy ; some 
 very good may be made from the bones ; 
 it will take from two hours and a half to 
 three hours. 
 
 719. TO DEESS MUTTON HAMS. 
 
 Soak the ham for five or six hours in 
 cold spring water, unless it has only re- 
 cently been cured, then one hour will 
 suffice ; put it into cold water, boil gently ; 
 it will be done in two hours and a half. 
 It is eaten cold. 
 
 720. MUTTON KIDNEYS BEOILED. 
 
 Skin and spit without parting asunder, 
 skewer them through the outer edge and 
 keep them flat, lay the opened sides first 
 to the fire, which should be clear and 
 brisk, in four minutes turn them, sprinkle 
 with salt and cayenne, and when done, 
 which will be in three minutes afterwards, 
 ' take them from the fire, put a piece of 
 butter inside them, squeeze some lemon 
 juice over them, and serve as hot as pos- 
 sible. 
 
 r 
 
 721. SHEEP'S TONGUES STEWED. 
 
 Put them into cold water and let them 
 boil ; when they are sufficiently tender to 
 remove the skin easily, take them out, 
 split them, and lay them in a stewpan 
 with enough good gravy to cover them. 
 Chop parsley, and mushroom, with a lit- 
 tle eschalot finely, work a lump of but- 
 ter with it, add pepper and salt to flavor ; 
 stew them in the gravy untifthe tongues 
 are tender, lay them in a dish, strain the 
 
 gravy and pour it hot over the tongues, 
 and serve. 
 
 722 C6TELETTES 1 LA MAINTENON. 
 (Ude's Eeceipt.) 
 
 Pare the chops neatly. Chop fine 
 some sweet herbs, such as parsley, sha-. 
 lots, and mushrooms, which fry in a little 
 butter. When they are done, fry the 
 chops a little in that seasoning till nearly 
 done, let them cool in the herbs ; then 
 have some strong foolscap paper cut in 
 the form of the cutlet, put some of the 
 herbs and ham chopped very fine, if you 
 have it ready in the larder ; put the cut- 
 lets in and a little of the herbs over 
 them ; wrap them in the paper, and broil 
 them on a very clean gridiron and very 
 equal fire till of a good color ; serve them 
 very hot, and a little Italian sauce sepa- 
 rate. Mind to wipe the grease with a 
 clean towel before serving them. 
 
 728. MUTTON CUTLETS WITH SOUBISE, 
 OE ONION SAUCE. 
 
 Take a neck of mutton, and cut the 
 chops one by one without flattening 
 them ; cut off some of the flat bone at the 
 extremity of the chops. Put them into 
 a stewpan with all the parings, together 
 with the parings of the onions to make 
 the soubise. Season the whole well with 
 carrots, a bunch of parsley, and green 
 onions, salt, and a very small quantity 
 of spice, &c. ; throw in four or five spoon- 
 fuls of good broth to braize them. When 
 done, drain them, and let them cool. 
 Strain the liquor through a silk sieve. 
 Then reduce it to a glaze. Next pare the 
 chops nicely, and put them with the 
 glaze. This being completed, dish them 
 miroton way, and pour the soubise or 
 onion sauce into the middle. 
 
 Some persons take two necks of mut- 
 t6n, cut two bones to each chop, lard 
 them with bacon, and braize them as 
 above ; but mutton, being in general fat, 
 is better without being larded. With 
 
306 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 regard to the two bones, you must take 
 care not to let them be too thick ; if they 
 are too thick you cannot dish them well. 
 
 724. ANOTHER, AND A MUCH BETTER 
 METHOD OF PREPARING CUTLETS A LA 
 80UBISE. 
 
 Cut the mutton chops a little thicker 
 than when you wish to broil them. Pare 
 them nicely, and put them into a stew- 
 pan, where the)' may all lie flat. Put an 
 onion or two, a few carrots, a little salt, 
 a bundle of parsley and green onions sea- 
 soned, four or five spoonfuls of good con- 
 somme, and sweat the whole till it is en- 
 tirely done. Then take out the roots, 
 put in a little glaze, and reduce over a 
 large fire. When entirely boiled down 
 to a glaze, take them off the fire for a few 
 minutes, let the cutlets settle in the" 
 glaze, take out the trimmings and vege- 
 tables, turn over the cutlets in the glaze, 
 and take out the grease or fat, lay them 
 on a cover to drain the fat, and serve up 
 before they can get dry. This method is 
 preferable to the other. You must not 
 in either case lard your chops with bacon. 
 These cutlets may be served up with all 
 sorts of puree of vegetables. 
 
 725. FOR C6TELETTES DE MOUTON EN 
 RAGOUT. 
 
 Take off all the fat from the cutlets, 
 dredge the meat with flour, and put them 
 into a stewpan with the fat melted, a bun- 
 dle of sweet herbs, and two shalots minced ; 
 let them brown, then strain the gravy, 
 add a glass of wine, and one of good 
 sauce ; thicken, if necessary, with a little 
 roux, and let the whole stew until very 
 tender. 
 
 726. TO DRESS C6TELETTES DE MOUTON 
 A LA POLONAISE. 
 
 Remove all the fat, put the meat into 
 a covered stewpan, with a carrot and a 
 turnip sliced, two onions, a bundle of 
 sweet herbs, a little pepper and salt; and 
 
 enough broth to moisten the whole ; let 
 it stew very gently until the meat is per- 
 fectly done, then take it out, strain the 
 gravy, put it over a brisk fire, and Deduce 
 it to a glaze ; then cover the cutlets with 
 the glaze, and serve them up with tomato- 
 sauce, or a vegetable puree of any kind. 
 
 Mutton Cutlets. 
 
 72T. FOR COTELETTES 1 LA MAINTENON. 
 
 Cut and trim cutlets from a neck or 
 loin of mutton ; chop very finely a quan- 
 tity of parsley, a little thyme, and a sha- 
 lot ; put them with butter into a stew- 
 pan, and fry the chops a little ; then take 
 out the chops ; allow them to cool ; add to 
 the herbs some fresh parsley chopped and 
 a few crumbs of bread, and seasoning : 
 spread this over the cutlets with a knife, 
 wrap them in buttered paper, and broil 
 them over a slow fire. Serve a sauce 
 piquant in a boat. 
 
 Or: Cut them handsomely from the 
 loin or back end of the neck ; half fry 
 them, and then cover them with herbs, 
 crumbs of bread, and seasoning ; lay this 
 on very thickly, and put them into a 
 stewpan with a little gravy ; stewxmtil 
 tender, then wrap them in writing-paper, 
 and finish them on the gridiron. 
 
 728. -COTELETTES AUX HARICOTS VERTS. 
 
 Having dressed French beans as usual, 
 drain the water from them, and simmer 
 them with pepper and salt in a good piece 
 of butter. A few minutes before serving 
 add the beaten yolk of an egg, and shake 
 the pan over the fire ; but they must not 
 
MUTTON. 
 
 307 
 
 boil. In the mean time have ready three 
 mutton cutlets, neatly trimmed, seasoned 
 with pepper, salt, and a few crumbs, and 
 nicely fried ; and serve them on the 
 French beans. 
 
 729. SCEAGS OF MUTTON 1 LA 8AINTE 
 MENEHOULD. 
 
 Order the narrow part ot a neck of 
 small mutton to be cut off before the 
 sheep be divided ; which leaves the two 
 scrags united. Soak in warm water, then 
 hang it two days ; lay it in a stewpot, 
 with slices of fat bacon over and under, 
 two pounds of scrag of veal, three large 
 carrots, three onions, a large bunch of 
 sweet herbs, two bay-leaves, and a table- 
 spoonful of whole white pepper ; cover the 
 whole with beef broth, and simmer four 
 hours. Drain the gravy from the meat, 
 which cover on all sides with crumbs of 
 bread mixed with pepper and salt, and 
 brown it with a salamander. In the 
 mean time boil the gravy, uncovered, 
 very quickly, having strained it first, and 
 serve in the dish ; add salt. Serve in the 
 dish endive, tomato sauce, or stewed 
 spinach. 
 
 780. MUTTON KIDNEYS. 
 
 Split, pepper, and broil them, broiling 
 the cut side first, which will make a cup 
 for the gravy when the outer part is 
 turned to the fire. Chop some parsley 
 very fine, mix it well with a little fresh 
 butter, the juice of a lemon, pepper and 
 salt, and put a little on each. A sheep's 
 heart may be split open, and broiled in 
 the same way. 
 
 With a very sharp knife cut mutton 
 kidneys in the thinnest possible slices ; 
 flour, and fry quickly till they are quite 
 crisp. While frying, add pepper and 
 salt. Serve them in a good gravy, to 
 which a bit of garlic has given a very 
 slight flavor. 
 
 r31. ROGNONS, AU VIN DE CHAMPAGNE. 
 
 Slice or mince them, and fry them with 
 
 a little chopped parsley and eschalot until 
 they become of a light brown, seasoning 
 them with pepper and salt; then dust 
 them with flour, moisten them with a 
 little strong gravy and a glass of Cham- 
 pagne, and let them stew for a few mo- 
 ments. 
 
 782. SHEEP'S TAILS AND KIDNEYS. 
 
 Cut the tails, boil them for fifteen 
 minutes, then put them into a stewpan 
 with half a pint of gravy, an onion stuck 
 with cloves, a little salt, and cayenne 
 pepper. Stew till tender, strain the 
 gravy, thicken it with flour and butter, 
 and add the juice of half a lemon. Boil 
 until the whole is very smooth, broil 
 half a dozen kidneys, and place them in 
 the middle of a dish with the tails and 
 sauce round. 
 
 These are the most tasty modes, but 
 kidneys, when meant for breakfast, are 
 usually broiled upon the gridiron, with- 
 out parsley or lemon; being only split 
 open, well peppered, and a bit of butter 
 put upon them when broiled. They 
 must not be much done, and may be 
 brought to the table in less than ten 
 minutes. If not quite hot, they are not 
 worth eating. 
 
 783. MUTTON EUMPS AND KIDNEYS. 
 
 Stew six rumps in some good mutton- 
 gravy half an hour ; then take them up, 
 and let them stand to cool. Clear the 
 gravy from the fat ; and put into it four 
 ounces of boiled rice, an onion stuck 
 with cloves, and a blade of mace; boil 
 them till the rice is thick. Wash the 
 rumps with yolks of eggs well beaten ; 
 and strew over them crumbs of bread, a 
 little pepper and salt, chopped parsley 
 and thyme, and grated lemon-peel. Fry 
 in butter of a fine brown. While the 
 rumps are stewing lard the kidneys, and 
 put them to roast in a Dutch oven. 
 When the rumps are fried, the grease 
 must be drained before they are put on 
 
308 
 
 THE PEACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 the dish, and the pan being cleared like- 
 wise from the fat, warm the rice in it. 
 Lay the latter on the dish ; the rumps 
 put round on the rice, the narrow ends 
 towards the middle, and the kidneys be- 
 tween. Garnish with hard eggs cut in 
 half, the white being left on; or with 
 different-colored pickles. 
 
 784 SHEEP'S HEAD. (English.) 
 Though this may be seen in every part 
 of London inhabited by the working 
 classes, and may be procured ready 
 cooked, I prefer always to prepare it at 
 home, and very good it is. Choose a 
 fine one. as fat as possible, and put it 
 into a gallon of water to disgorge for two 
 hours ; wash it well, saw it in two from 
 the top, take out the brain, cut away 
 part of the uncovered part of the skull, 
 and also the ends of the jaws ; wash it 
 well, put into the stewpan, with two 
 onions, one carrot, two turnips cut in 
 slices, a little celery, four cloves, a bou- 
 quet of four sprigs of thyme, a bay-leaf, 
 one ounce of salt, a quarter of an ounce 
 of pepper, three quarts of water ; set on 
 the fire ; when near boiling, add half a 
 teacupful of pearl or Scotch barley ; let 
 it simmer for three hours, or till tender, 
 which try with a fork ; take out vege- 
 tables, cut in dice, remove bouquet, skim 
 off the fat, and pour all into tureen. 
 Or, lay the head on a dish, and serve 
 with either onion sauce over, parsley and 
 butter, or any sharp sauce ; or egg and 
 bread-crumb it over, put it in an oven for 
 half an hour till getting a nice yellow 
 color, and serve with sharp sauce under. 
 Or, with the brain, thus : having boiled 
 the brain for ten minutes in a little vine- 
 gar, salt, and water, cut it in pieces, warm 
 it in parsley and butter, season it a lit- 
 tle, and put it under the head and serve. 
 
 735. SHEEP'S HEADS, HEAETS, TAILS, 
 AND TONGUES. 
 
 A great variety of excellent dishes 
 may be made from a sheep's h$ad, which 
 
 in India, where veal is not so easily pro- 
 curable, answers all the purposes for 
 mock turtle, rolled head, rich hash, or 
 ragout : the bones make excellent jelly, 
 either savory or sweet. Parboil the 
 head; cut the meat from the bone; stew 
 the former in a little of the liquor until 
 quite tender ; send it to table with a glass 
 of wine in the sauce, forcemeat-balls and 
 brain-cakes for garnish ; or roll up the 
 pieces seasoned in the inside with a thick 
 covering of chopped herbs well seasoned ; 
 brush the outside with yolk of egg; 
 dredge it with bread-crumbs ; fry it ; 
 and send to table with a rich gravy made 
 of the bones and pickles warmed up in it. 
 Take a sheep's heart and stuff it 
 throughout, using a considerable quan- 
 tity of chopped bacon in the stuffing ; 
 half boil it, and when cooled a little rub 
 it over with pepper and salt, and wrap it 
 in paste in the shape of a cone. Rub the 
 paste over with the yolk of an egg, and 
 strew vermicelli loosely over it. Set it 
 with the broad end downwards, and 
 bake it in the oven. When baked, send 
 it to table with gravy sauce. 
 
 786. SHEEP'S TAILS AND TONGUES. 
 
 Take three tails and three tongues, cut 
 the tails in half and split the tongues. 
 Stew them gently for three hours in as 
 much water as will cover them, adding 
 three spoonfuls of vinegar, three onions, 
 a teaspoonful of mixed spices, and one of 
 salt : these ingredients to be put in after 
 the pot has been skimmed. When the 
 tails, &c., are very tender, take them out, 
 score them, dip them in drawn butter, 
 roll them in grated bread-crumbs, and let 
 them lie for a few minutes, then put on 
 more butter with a knife, and additional 
 bread-crumbs, which latter should be 
 slightly seasoned ; brown them before the 
 fire. Strain the gravy, enrich it with 
 butter, squeeze lemon juice over the 
 tongues and tails, and serve them in the 
 gravy. 
 
MUTTON. 
 
 309 
 
 737. SHEEFS TEOTTEES. 
 
 Boil the trotters, or rather stew them 
 gently, for several hours, until the bones 
 will come out. The liquor they are 
 boiled in will make excellent stock or 
 jelly. Take out the bones without in- 
 jury to the skin, stuff them with a fine 
 forcemeat ; stew them for half an hour in 
 some of the stock, which must be well 
 flavored with onion, seasoning, and a lit- 
 tle sauce; take out the trotters, strain 
 the sauce, reduce it to a glaze, and brush 
 it over the feet. Serve with any stewed 
 vegetable. 
 
 Or : Prepare them in the same way, 
 and dip them in a batter and fry them. 
 The paste, or batter, for frying, is best 
 made thus : mix four spoonfuls of flour 
 with one of olive-oil, and a sufficient 
 quantity of beer to make it of the proper 
 thickness ; then add the whites of two 
 eggs well beaten and a little salt. Serve 
 with tomato sauce. 
 
 Or : Simply boil them, and eat them 
 cold with oil and vinegar. 
 
 788. SHEEP'S TEOTTEES.-(Soyer.) 
 
 I get a dozen of them from the tripe- 
 butcher, all cleaned and ready, and beg 
 of him to extract the long bone from 
 them. I put a quarter of a pound of 
 beef or mutton-suet in a stewpan, with 
 two onions and one carrot sliced, two 
 bay-leaves, two sprigs of thyme, one 
 ounce of salt, a quarter of an ounce of 
 pepper; put on the fire, and cook five 
 minutes ; add two tablespoonfuls of flour, 
 and stir it round ; add two quarts and a 
 half of water, then put in the feet, stir 
 till boiling ; simmer for nearly three 
 hours, or until the feet are perfectly 
 tender ; when done, take them out, and 
 lay on a sieve ; take a quarter of a pound 
 of fresh butter, a teaspoonful of salt, 
 the same of flour, a quarter of one of 
 pepper, a little grated nutmeg, the juice 
 of a lemon; mix all these well together 
 20 
 
 on a plate with the back of a spoon ; put 
 the feet with a gill of milk in a stewpao 
 on the fire ; when very hot, put in the 
 butter, stir continually till melted, hav- 
 ing previously well mixed two yolks of 
 eggs with five table-spoonfuls of milk, 
 which put in the stewpan ; keep moving 
 the pan round over the fire continually 
 for one minute, serve in a very hot dish 
 with croutons of fried bread cut in tri- 
 angular pieces round the dish. The 
 stock may be used for any puree or thick 
 soup. 
 
 T89. FEENCH EAGOUT OP MUTTON. 
 
 Take about two pounds of the scrag 
 of the neck, breast, chump, or any other 
 part, with as little fat as possible, cut it 
 into pieces of about two inches square, 
 put into a pan two ounces of butter, or 
 good fat ; when melted, add two table- 
 spoonfuls of flour, stir with a wooden 
 spoon till forming a brownish roux, add 
 the meat, and stir it round for twenty 
 minutes ; add a little water, but not 
 enough to cover the meat; one salt- 
 spoonful of pepper, four ditto of salt, and 
 four ditto of sugar, a bouquet of six 
 sprigs of parsley, stir till boiling, set it 
 to simmer. Having previously peeled a 
 few turnips, cut in large dice one inch 
 square, about thirty pieces, put some fat 
 in the fryingpan, and fry the turnips 
 until rather brown, take them out, and 
 put them in a stewpan with the meat 
 when it is done, which will be in about 
 one hour from the time it was put on ; 
 when ready to serve, take out the meat 
 and turnips, squeeze the bouquet, which 
 throw away, skim off the fat ; if too 
 thick, add a little broth or water ; or, if 
 too thin, boil it a little more, dish it up 
 by placing the pieces in a circle and the 
 turnips in the centre, sauce over, and 
 serve very hot (if not, it is spoiled.) 
 | For those who like it, a small piece of 
 | scraped garlic may be added. Onions, 
 
310 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 carrots, peas, &c., may be used in place 
 of the turnips. 
 
 This is a very favorite dish in France ; 
 I learnt it from an old French emigre, 
 who used to visit us about ten years 
 since. When I have company, I use the 
 chops of the neck, dress them in a crown, 
 placing the vegetables in the centre ; I 
 find them very much liked. I have at 
 some houses partaken of harico-mutton 
 which has been tolerably good, but 
 nothing in flavor to this plan. If there 
 is any left, it is good warmed again, or 
 even cold. 
 
 740. IRISH STEW. 
 
 Cut up about two pounds of the neck 
 of the mutton into small cutlets, which 
 put into a proper sized stewpan with 
 some of the fat of the mutton ; season it 
 with half a table-spoonful of salt, a 
 quarter of an ounce of pepper, the same 
 of sugar, six middle-sized onions, a quart 
 of water ; set them to boil and simmer 
 for half an hour, then add six middling- 
 sized potatoes, cut them in halves or 
 quarters, stir' it together, and let it stew 
 gently for about one hour longer ; if too 
 fast, remove it from the top, but if well 
 done the potatoes will absorb all of it, 
 and eat very delicate ; any other part of 
 the mutton may be served in the same 
 way. 
 
 741. TURESICUS. 
 
 Mince very fine part of a cold boiled 
 leg of mutton, and mix it with rice, sea- 
 son it very high with black pepper, add 
 salt, and make it into balls the size of a 
 cabbage-leaf. 
 
 Tie each ball separately in a cabbage- 
 leaf; boil it about half an hour, and 
 Berve immediately, very hot. 
 
 742. A SCOTCH HAGGIS, 
 
 Take the stomach of a sheep ; wash it 
 with cold water until perfectly clean; 
 
 then turn it inside out, scald it, scrape it 
 with a knife quickly, and then put it into 
 cold salt and water till wanted. Take 
 the liver, lights, and heart, and parboil 
 them ; grate the liver, and mince the 
 other parts quite fine ; mince also half a 
 pound of suet, three or four onions, 
 toast half a pound of round oatmeal 
 cakes before the fire, and pound them 
 into powder, which is to be thickly sprin- 
 kled over the mince; mix all well to- 
 gether; season with pepper and salt; 
 then fill the bag, and before sewing it up 
 put in a large teacupful of any kind of 
 strong broth or gravy. Put the bag, 
 neatly sewed up, in a pan with enough 
 of boiling water to cover it, anok a small 
 plate under it ; prick over with a needle 
 to prevent it bursting, and let it boil four 
 or five hours, keeping the haggis con- 
 stantly covered with boiling water. 
 
 743. THE ENGLISH MODE IS 
 
 To mince the heart, the tongue, the 
 kidneys, and a part of the liver of the 
 sheep, with a third of its weight in fat 
 bacon, two anchovies chopped small, and 
 the crumb of a penny-roll grated, a salt- 
 spoonful of grated lemon/peel, pepper, 
 salt, two eggs beaten, and a glass of wine ; 
 mix all well together ; butter and mould ; 
 put in the mixture, and let it boil for 
 two hours : or it may be boiled in a veal 
 caul. 
 
 744. A CAMP DISH. 
 
 
 
 Take any joint of mutton, put it into 
 a pot with a good many onions cut small, 
 and as many vegetables as can be obtain- 
 ed to add to it ; two table-spoonfuls of 
 vinegar, five of port wine ; season it with 
 bla^k and red pepper ; add a spoonful of 
 flour, and, if at hand, four dessert-spoon- 
 fuls of Harvey's sauce and essence of 
 anchovies. Cover the meat with water, 
 and let it stew one and a half hour ; it 
 ! should be stirred frequently to prevent 
 
MUTTON. 
 
 311 
 
 it from burning, as there should be only 
 water sufficient to cook it. Should there 
 be a steam apparatus do not add the 
 water. This is an excellent dish in camp, 
 and it also suits a family where there 
 are many persons to be fed from one 
 ioint. A fowl may be added to or sub- 
 stituted for the mutton. 
 
 745. SHEEP'S TONGUES WITH TURNIPS. 
 
 Take eight tongues of an equal sizej 
 let them disgorge in a little water and 
 flour, and next blanch them. When 
 thoroughly blanched, put them in a stew- 
 pan, to braise them. In case you should 
 have a braise of beef, or of mutton, or any 
 others, they will all equally answer the 
 purpose for sheep's tongues ; when they 
 are done, peel them and cut them in two. 
 Dish them miroton way, and cover them 
 with the sauce of the haricot, the turnips 
 of course being put in the middle. It is 
 customary in French cookery to call any 
 thing made with turnips haricot. 
 
 746. THE SAME WITH CABBAGE LETTUCES. 
 
 The tongues are to be braised as above, 
 the same as those you wish to cook in any 
 way whatever. Take a dozen and a half 
 of good cabbage-lettuces, wash them very 
 clean and blanch them. When they are 
 cold and you have squeezed all the water 
 out of them, open them in two, take off 
 the stalks, powder a little salt and pep- 
 per over them ; then shut them and give 
 them a good form ; mark them in a stew- 
 pan, surrounded with layers of bacon; 
 moisten them with a little braise, or any 
 thing to give them a good taste ; other- 
 wise take the pot-top, with a little broth 
 and salt. When the lettuces are quite 
 done, drain them, and squeeze them in a 
 cloth to extract the grease. Dish them 
 in rosettes, a tongue, a lettuce, and so on 
 successively. Put a large tongue in the 
 middle, to improve the look of the rosette. 
 Another time cut the tongues in two, and 
 dish them miroton way, that is, one half 
 
 of a tongue, and lettuce, alternately. In 
 this case, put a jardiniere in the middle, 
 and cover both the tongues and the let- 
 tuce with the Espagnole (Spanish sauce.) 
 This is likewise a common dish in a first 
 course. 
 
 747. MUSETTE OP MUTTON WITH ENDIVE. 
 (MUTTON BAGPIPE WITH ENDIVE.) 
 
 Take a shoulder of mutton that has 
 been kept for some while ; bone it with- 
 out taking off the thin skin that is found 
 near the joint ; powder it over with a lit- 
 tle pepper and salt. Then pass a piece 
 of packthread round, as tailors do round 
 a button, fasten the packthread, and 
 mould the shoulder of mutton quite 
 round. You must preserve the knuckle 
 so that it may resemble a bagpipe. 
 Braise it, and season it well. After 
 having drained and glazed it, send it up 
 with either endive or sorrel. 
 
 N. B. It may also be stuffed and lard- 
 ed, and a floweret larded in the top part, 
 and sent up with white beans a la Lyon- 
 naise. This is also a common dish. 
 
 Meat Safe, of wood and wjre 
 
 LAMB. 
 
 74a-FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB. 
 
 This is the favorite and indeed the best 
 joint. Do not put it too near the fire at 
 first, when it gets heated baste it well; 
 the fire should be quick, clear, but not 
 
312 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 fierce ; the usual weight of a fore-quarter 
 is between nine and eleven pounds, it 
 will take two hours ; when it is done, 
 separate the shoulder from the ribs, but 
 before it is quite taken off lay under a 
 large lump of butter, squeeze a lemon, 
 and season with pepper and salt ; let it 
 remain long enough to quite melt the 
 butter, then remove the shoulder and 
 lay it on another dish. 
 
 Fore-Quarter of Lamb. 
 
 T49. SADDLE OF LAMB. 
 
 Roast it quickly, but be very careful 
 neither to scorch it nor to take it from 
 the fire until it is done ; baste with the 
 fat and gravy which fall from it, and in 
 an hour and three-quarters it will be 
 done, unless larger than common, and 
 then it will take two feours ; serve with 
 mint and cucumber sauce. 
 
 750. TO ROAST A LEG OF LAMB. 
 
 The rules laid down for roasting mut- 
 ton must be scrupulously observed with 
 respect to lamb j let it roast gradually, 
 and commence a distance from the fire ; a 
 leg of five pounds will take an hour and 
 a quarter, one of six pounds will take an 
 hour and a half. 
 
 751. -TO BOIL A LEG OF LAMB. 
 
 Put it in sufficient clear cold soft wa- 
 ter to cover it. let it remain half an hour, 
 a table-spoonful of vinegar or half a hand- 
 ful of salt may be thrown in ; put it into 
 a thin white cloth which ha^ been floured, 
 and boil it in enough water to cover it. A 
 good-sized bundle of sweet herbs may be 
 
 thrown into the saucepan ; if six pounds 
 it will be done in an hour and a half; serva 
 with spinach or French beans ; if sent to 
 table cold lay handsome sprigs of parsley 
 about it tastefully ; it may, while hot, be 
 garnished with parsley, with thin slices 
 of lemon laid round the dish. 
 
 752. A SHOULDER OF LAMB 
 
 Will be found best cooked when done 
 with the fore-quarter, but if roasted sin- 
 gly will take an hour. 
 
 758. SHOULDER OF LAMB LARDED. 
 Cut your lardons small, of fine white 
 fat bacon, cover them with pounded mixed 
 spices, cayenne pepper, and salt ; bone 
 the shoulder of lamb, lard the under side, 
 roll the joint, and bind it with narrow 
 white tape ; braise it, and when done 
 glaze it. Serve it on mushroom sauce ; 
 any sauce applicable to lamb will serve 
 except mint sauce, which should not b 
 eaten with this dish. 
 
 754 TO GRILL A LOIN OF LAMB. 
 
 Boil half an hour, take it out and score 
 it like pork, brush it all over with well 
 beaten yolk of eggs, and powder over it 
 bread-crumbs mixed with minced parsley, 
 put it into an American oven and roast 
 it until brown ; serve with melted butter 
 and lemon pickle, or tomato sauce, the 
 last especially, if cold. A shoulder and 
 breast may be dressed in the same man- 
 ner. 
 
 755. SHOULDER OF LAMB FORCED AND 
 BRAISED. 
 
 Take out the bone from the shoulder ; 
 you must be very particular and careful 
 in removing the blade bone that you do 
 not cut a hole through the skin ; when 
 you have done it fill up the vacancy with 
 some good veal forcemeat, cover it with 
 fat bacon or ham ; then put it into a good 
 braise and let it boil gentl} r for about an 
 hour, when required glaze it well j you 
 
LAMB. 
 
 313 
 
 can make it after you have put in the 
 forcemeat and sewed up the cut part, 
 either as a shoulder of lamb, or form it into 
 a swan by adding the shank bone for a 
 neck, and form the beak or bill with 
 paste ; if plain, put a paper ruffle or orna- 
 mented silver skewer ; the sauce as may 
 be approved of, as peas, or spinach, or 
 puree, turnips, or French beans, or truf- 
 fles, or mushrooms. 
 
 756.-STEWED LOIN OP LAMB. 
 
 The loin may be stewed whole or in 
 steaks ; in the former the flap being se- 
 cured by a skewer, is put into a stewpan, 
 with a quarter of a pound of butter, and 
 covered down close ; let it simmer one 
 hour, then turn it, let it simmer again for 
 an hour and a quarter, and then have 
 ready some rich brown gravy hot, lift out 
 the meat, pour the gravy over it, and 
 send it to table with mint sauce, a lettuce, 
 and a few radishes and spring onions. 
 
 757. NECK OF LAMB A LA JAEDINIEEE. 
 
 Plain roast the neck, as you would that 
 of mutton ; and whilst it is roasting, cut 
 one middle-sized carrot in small dice, the 
 same quantity of turnip, and thirty but- 
 ton onions ; wash all in cold water, put 
 them in a small stewpan, with one ounce 
 of butter and half a teaspoonful of sugar, 
 place on the fire till no liquid remains in 
 the stewpan ; add to it a gill of brown 
 sauce, half a one of broth, add a small 
 bouquet of parsley and bay-leaf; after 
 once boiling, set it to simmer on the cor- 
 ner of the stove, skim off all the fat; 
 when ready, taste if very palatable ; it 
 must be a nice brown color, and the 
 sauce lightly adhere to the back of the 
 spoon ; serve on the dish, place the neck 
 over; white sauce maybe used instead of 
 brown, only add a spoonful of liaison 
 when ready to serve. The sauce is 
 equally good with almost any kind of 
 meat, game, and poultry ; it will often be 
 
 referred to, therefore be particular in 
 making it ; you can shape the vegetables 
 ia twenty different ways, by using either 
 green peas, French beans, or Brussels 
 sprouts; sprue-grass may be added, 
 when in season, but should be boiled 
 separately, and added just previous to 
 serving. 
 
 758. SADDLE OF LAMB, EUSSIAN FASH- 
 ION. 
 
 Roast a small saddle of lamb, keeping 
 it pale; having had it covered with 
 paper, take ten good-sized boiled pota- 
 toes, mash them with about two ounces 
 of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter 
 ditto of pepper, a table-spoonful of chopped 
 parsley, and a little grated nutmeg ; mix 
 all well together with a fork, adding half 
 a gill of milk and one egg ; when cold, 
 roll them into a long shape the size of 
 plover's eggs, egg and bread-crumb twice, 
 and fry light colored ; dress the saddle, 
 surround it with the potatoes, make a 
 sauce of melted butter and maitre d'hdtel 
 butter, put in it, and pour it round, and 
 serve. All joints of lamb can be dressed 
 thus. 
 
 759. LEG OE SHOULDEE OF LAMB WITH 
 PEAS. 
 
 These must be plain roasted; when 
 done, serve with peas in the bottom of 
 the dish. 
 
 760. LEG OE SHOULDEE WITH FEENCH 
 BEANS. 
 
 Plain roast as before ; prepare beans as 
 directed. 
 
 761. BOILED LEG OF LAMB WITH 
 SPINACH. 
 
 Procure a very small leg, and cut the 
 end of the knuckle-bone, tie it up in a 
 cloth and place it in cold water, with two 
 ounces of salt; boil it gently according to 
 size ; when done, remove the cloth, and 
 dish it up with spinach under it, pre- 
 pared as directed. (See VEGETABLES.) 
 
314 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 762. SHOULDER OF LAMB BRAISED. 
 
 Take the blade bone from a shoulder of 
 lamb, and have ready ten long strips of 
 fat bacon, which season rather highly 
 with pepper, salt, and a teaspoonful of 
 chopped parsley ; place the pieces, one 
 after the other, in your larding needle, 
 which draw quickly through the fleshy 
 part of the shoulder, leaving the bacon in 
 the meat ; after having used all the 
 bacon, roll the meat round, and tie it up 
 with a piece of string ; then put it into a 
 stewpan containing a quarter of a pound 
 of butter, over a slow fire, stirring it oc- 
 casionally until of a light golden color, 
 pour in a quart of water or broth, and 
 add forty button onions and a bunch of 
 parsley ; let simmer very slowly until the 
 onions are quite tender, then take up the 
 meat, pull off the string, and dress it 
 upon a dish with the onions round ; take 
 the parsley out of the liquor, carefully 
 skim off all the fat, and reduce it until 
 forming a thinnish glaze, when pour it 
 over the meat and serve. Mushrooms 
 may be added ten minutes before sending 
 to table. 
 
 768. BREAST OF LAMB BRAISED, BROILED. 
 
 Saw off the breast from the ribs of 
 lamb, leaving the neck of sufficient size 
 to roast, or for cutlets; then put two 
 onions, half a carrot, and the same of 
 turnip, cut into thin slices, in a stewpan 
 with two bay-leaves, a few sprigs of pars- 
 ley and thyme, half an ounce of salt, and 
 three pints of water ; lay in the breast, 
 which let simmer until tender, and the 
 bones leave with facility; take it from 
 the stewpan, pull out all the bones, and 
 press it between two dishes ; when cold, 
 season with a little salt and pepper, egg 
 and bread-crumb it lightly over, and 
 broil gently (over a moderate fire) of a 
 nice yellowish color, turning it very care- 
 fully; when sufficiently browned upon 
 one side, serve with plain gravy in the 
 dish, and mint sauce separately, or with 
 
 stewed peas or any other vegetable sauce j 
 tomato sauce is likewise very good serv- 
 ed with it. 
 
 764. LAMB'S HEAD. 
 
 Parboil the head, rub it over with yolk 
 of eggs, cover it thickly with chopped 
 herbs, crumbs of bread, and clarified but- 
 ter, and put it into a Dutch oven before 
 the fire. Mince the heart and the liver 
 very finely, and stew them in a little 
 good gravy, adding a spoonful of lemon- 
 pickle ; make some forcemeat-balls- and 
 brain-cakes, and fry them; place the 
 mince in the dish with the head upon it, 
 and garnish with the balls, brain-cakes, 
 and lemon sliced, or pickles. 
 
 765.-LAMB'S FRY. 
 
 Take about a pound and boil for ten 
 minutes in half a gallon of water, take it 
 out and dry on a cloth ; have some fresh 
 crumbs, mix with them half a spoonful 
 of chopped parsley, salt, pepper; egg 
 the fry lightly with a paste-brush, dip it 
 in the crumbs, fry for five minutt s, serve 
 very hot on a clean napkin in a dish, with 
 fried parsley over. 
 
 766. LAMB'S HEAD WITH HOLLANDAISE. 
 
 If you want it very white, make stock 
 as for sheep's feet, put it to stew, when 
 done lay on dish with about twelve new 
 potatoes (boiled) round it, pour over 
 some cream-sauce, and serve. 
 
 767. LAMB'S HEAD WITH BRAIN OR 
 LIVER. 
 
 Blanch the brain or liver, and mince 
 them as for sheep's head, introducing 
 only the yolk of an egg; mix with a 
 little milk, stir in quickly, add a table- 
 spoonful of chopped parsley, the juice ot 
 half a lemon, lay it on the dish with the 
 head over, and serve. 
 
 768. TO BONE A QUARTER OF LAMB. 
 
 Take the fore quarter, remove the 
 shoulder and take out the bone ; stuff it 
 
LAMB. 
 
 315 
 
 with fine forcemeat, and skewer it in a 
 handsome shape. Braise it with two 
 ounces of butter, add a teacupful of 
 water, stirring the braise until the gravy 
 is drawn. Then cut the brisket into 
 pieces, and stew them in white gravy ; 
 thicken it with cream and eggs so that it 
 shall be very white ; cut the long bones 
 into chops and fry them ; thicken the 
 gravy of the braise, add to it haricots, 
 minced truffles, or any thing else of vege- 
 table in season. Place the shoulder in 
 the centre of a dish with its own sauce, 
 lay the brisket covered with white sauce 
 round it, and place the fried chops at the 
 
 769. LAMB A L'ESPAGNOLE. 
 
 An entire lamb is frequently roasted in 
 the Peninsula, without any other prepa- 
 ration than merely skinning it, taking out 
 the fry, and cutting off the feet. It is 
 then, however, extremely young not 
 more than perhaps six weeks or two 
 months old; the bones eat like gristle, 
 and the meat is singularly delicate. It is 
 sometimes, but only rarely, stuffed with 
 bread and sweet herbs, and served with 
 bread-sauce ; but more frequently eaten 
 with lemon-juice. 
 
 7TO. AU PASCAL. 
 
 May be a little older, and is also roast- 
 ed whole, but boned from the neck up to 
 the shoulders, and the legs fixed into the 
 body, which is then covered with slices 
 of bacon, kept on with small skewers, or 
 tied with twine ; all, however, being re- 
 moved when the meat is nearly done. 
 Both should be placed in a cradle-spit, 
 and will take about two hours in roasting. 
 
 T71.-TO FBICASSEE LAMB-STONES WITH- 
 OUT ANY ADDITION. 
 
 Skin, wash, and parboil, and then cut 
 them in half, dry and flour them ; fry of 
 a beautiful brown in hog's lard. Serve 
 with the following sauce : thicken some 
 veal gravy with a bit of flour and butter, 
 
 and then add to it a slice of lemon, a 
 large spoonful of mushroom ketchup, a 
 teaspoonful of lemon-pickle, a grate of 
 nutmeg, and the yolk of an egg beaten 
 well hi two large spoonfuls of thick 
 cream. Put this over the fire, and stir it 
 well till it is hot and looks white : do not 
 let it. boil, or it will curdle. Then put hi 
 the fry, and shake it about for a minute 
 or two. Serve hi a very hot dish. 
 
 772. TO STEW A BBEAST OP LAMB. 
 
 Cut it into pieces, pepper and salt well, 
 stew in sufficient gravy to cover the 
 meat until tender, then thicken the sauce, 
 pour in a glass of sherry, serve on a dish 
 of stewed mushrooms. 
 
 778. CHEVAUX-DE-FBISE LAMB. 
 
 Get two necks of lamb of the same 
 size, take off the chine -bone, not leaving 
 a particle of bone adhering to the ribs, 
 or it cannot be carved clean down be- 
 tween the bones when at table ; blanch 
 them a few minutes, put them to cool, 
 then scrape about one inch down from 
 the ends of the ribs between each bone, 
 the skin, and fat ; then put the bones to 
 meet regularly, and put one between the 
 other, which will form a chevaux-de-frise ; 
 braise them the same as the former ; 
 when done, glaze the fat and meat but 
 not the white rib bones : any of the sauces 
 named or cucumbers. 
 
 774. CHEVAUX-DE-FBISE WITH LAMB 
 SWEETBBEADS. 
 
 Do the same as before ; when it is done 
 and glazed, have ready some good lamb 
 sweetbreads, about six larded ones and 
 glazed, put them on the top between the 
 bones, when the two necks are put to- 
 gether. 
 
 775. BLANQUETTE D'AGNEAU A LA PBO- 
 VENCALE. 
 
 Of the best end of the brisket take 
 
316 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 two or three pounds, cut it into dice of 
 four inches, rinse them in clear water, 
 wipe them with a cloth, and flour them ; 
 take two ounces of the fat of boiled 
 bacon, five of fresh butter, chop some 
 parsley, and boil ten minutes ; put in the 
 lamb dice, cut up an onion small, squeeze 
 in the juice of half a lemon, and season 
 with pepper and salt; let it simmer 
 gradually for two hours ; beat up the 
 yolk of three eggs, and add them to the 
 gravy ; keep the pan moving about the 
 fire for three minutes : dish and serve. 
 
 776. LAMB CHOPS. 
 
 Lamb chops and lamb cutlets are cook- 
 ed in the same manner as mutton chops 
 and cutlets, but require more care in the 
 cooking ; they are sent to table with va- 
 rious garnishes, and arranged in many 
 forms, frequently accompanied with a 
 puree of vegetables, or ranged round a 
 pyramid of mashed potatoes ; the most 
 simple manner is* to garnish with crisped 
 parsley. 
 
 777. ANOTHER. 
 
 Take a loin of lamb, cut chops from it 
 half an inch thick, retaining the kidney 
 in its place ; dip them into egg and bread- 
 crumbs, fry and serve with fried parsley. 
 
 When chops are made from a breast of 
 lamb, the red bone at the edge of the 
 breast should be cut off, and the breast 
 parboiled in water or broth, with a sliced 
 carrot and two or three onions, before it 
 is divided into cutlets, which is done by 
 cutting between every second or third 
 bone, and preparing them, in every re- 
 spect, as the last. 
 
 If brown, season them with pepper, 
 salt, nutmeg, grated lemon-peel, and 
 chopped parsley ; but dip them first into 
 egg j fry them quickly. Thicken some 
 gravy with a little flour and butter, and 
 add to it a spoonful of port wine. 
 
 778. SWEETBEEADS. 
 
 Two good throat sweetbreads or three 
 will make an entree ; blanch them until 
 fit to eat, take them up and lay them in 
 cold water; when cold dry them well, 
 egg and bread-crumb them with or 
 without herbs ; put them on a dish and 
 brown them in the oven; mushroom 
 sauce, or endives, or sorrel, or spinach, 
 or tomato will do if approved of. 
 
 7T9. SWEETBREADS FRICASSEED, WHITE. 
 
 Blanch, and cut them in slices. To a 
 pint of veal gravy put a thickening of 
 flour and butter, a table-spoonful of 
 cream, half a teaspoonful of mushroom 
 powder, grated lemon-peel and nutmeg, 
 and white pepper, to flavor. Stew ten 
 minutes, add the sweetbreads, let them 
 simmer twenty minutes. Dish, add salt, 
 thin pieces of lemon-peel ; mix up, and 
 serve. 
 
 780. SWEETBREADS FRICASSEED, BROWN. 
 
 Cut them in small pieces, flour, and 
 fry them. When a good brown, pour 
 over them a pint of good beef gravy, 
 highly seasoned ; stew gently until the 
 sweetbreads are tender. Add a little 
 flour and butter to thicken ; add truffles 
 and mushroom ketchup to flavor ; morels 
 or mushrooms may be substituted, or all 
 may be cooked with the sweetbreads. 
 
 781. TO STEW SWEETBREADS RIS DE 
 VEAU. 
 
 Make .a forcemeat of the tenderest 
 parts of boiled or roast fowl, some bacon, 
 a little parsley chopped, a little thyme, 
 lemon-peel, the yolks of two eggs, cay- 
 enne pepper, and nutmeg. Lay the 
 sweetbreads in a pan, upon a layer of 
 slices of veal, cover them with slices of 
 bacon, put in a bunch of sweet herbs, an 
 onion sliced, a little mace, and pepper 
 
LAMB. 
 
 317 
 
 and salt. Pour in a quart of good broth, 
 and stew for two hours ; remove them, 
 and reduce by boiling the broth to a 
 fourth : heat the sweetbreads in it, gar- 
 nish with lemon in slices. 
 
 782.-SWEETBEEADS LAEDED-1 LA 
 DAUBE. 
 
 Blanch and lard them with bacon, put 
 them into a stewpan with a pint of veal 
 broth ; add a little browning, with the 
 juice of half a lemon. Stew until ten- 
 der ; thicken the gravy with a little flour 
 and butter. Lay bunches of boiled cel- 
 ery round the dish when you serve. 
 
 783. PIEDS D' AGNEAU. 
 
 Have six lambs' feet scalded, take out 
 the shank-bone very carefully, so as not 
 to cut or break the skin ; soak for three 
 hours in cold water ; put them in a stew- 
 pan with cold water and the juice of two 
 lemons ; let it boil for ten minutes, take 
 out the feet, throw them into cold water, 
 cut. off the bones of the cleft part of the 
 foot, and remove the curl of hair that 
 lies in the cleft. Boil very gently for 
 three or more hours in some poclee 
 (which see), to keep them very white. 
 Serve with asparagus, peas, and mush- 
 room, or white cucumber sauce. 
 
 781 HEAET SWEETBEEADS LAEDED 
 WITH BACON OE TBUFFLES. 
 
 The same quantity, either one larded 
 and two plain, or two if fine larded with 
 bacon ; when blanched for two or three 
 minutes, put them in a small dish or 
 stewpan, with a little stock ; cover them 
 over, and boil them either in the oven or 
 over the fire for about twenty minutes ; 
 take them up and glaze them several 
 times, keeping them hot; lamb sweet- 
 breads will take eight for a dish, and re- 
 quire to be neatly trimmed, cutting away 
 the pipe and dish them on a rim of force- 
 meat or mashed potatoes, or spinach. 
 
 785. SWEETBEEADS AS CUTLETS. 
 
 If you cannot get heart sweetbreads, 
 you must use the throat. Blanch them 
 for about ten minutes, then put them to 
 cool into cold water ; take them out and 
 dry them in a cloth, then cut longways, 
 twelve or fourteen pieces for cutlets, 
 making them a nice shape ; if you wish 
 them to be white saute cutlets, you 
 must put some butter or lard in your 
 cutlet-pan, a juice of lemon, a little white 
 pepper, and salt ; do not color them, take 
 them up and lay them upon white paper 
 to soak up the grease from them ; dish 
 them round upon a tureen, pouring the 
 sauce in the middle. 
 
 786. EOAST SWEETBEEAD. 
 
 Boil sweetbreads, either heart or 
 throat, trim them and dry them, then 
 egg and bread-crumb them, brown them 
 before the fire or in the oven ; put good 
 clear gravy under them, and water- 
 cresses, as a garnish. 
 
 787. SWEETBEEAD CUTLETS CEUMBED 
 AU GEATIN. 
 
 Cut the sweetbreads as before, a nice 
 thickness, but not too thick ; dry them, 
 then egg and bread-crumb them as you 
 would veal or other cutlets; use any 
 sauce that may be preferred. 
 
 788. LAMB'S HEAD AND EMINCEES. 
 
 Wash well a lamb's head and pluck, 
 take out the brains, blanch them by 
 themselves, boil the head and pluck for 
 about a quarter of an hour, take it up to 
 cool, take out the tongue, trim the two 
 halves of the head neatly, then score it, 
 then egg and bread-crumb them as you 
 would cutlets, and brown them in the 
 oven or before the fire. Cut up in small 
 dice in equal quantities, the tongue, liver, 
 heart, and lights; fry in a stewpan a 
 little chopped parsley, shalot, and mush- 
 room if you have it, to a nice light 
 
318 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 brown, dry up the butter with flour, use 
 some good second stock or brown sauce ; 
 season with lemon, cayenne pepper, salt, 
 and a dust of sugar ; put the emincees 
 under the head, the brains, egg, and 
 bread-crumb in four pieces and put 
 round. 
 
 789. SHEEP OK LAMBS' TEOTTEES. 
 
 Get a dozen or two of trotters, stew 
 them for several hours, until all the 
 bones will come from them ; save this 
 liquor ; do not break the skin ; stuff them 
 with good quenelles or forcemeat; re- 
 turn them again into the same stock, 
 boil them about fifteen minutes, glaze 
 them ; soubise sauce or tomato sauce is 
 good with them, or you may fry them 
 with butter. 
 
 PORK. 
 
 The proportion of persons who are fond 
 of pork to those who dislike it, are as a 
 hundred to one, and yet it is falsely con- 
 'sidered a vulgar taste. The passion for 
 it possessed by the Chinese has been il- 
 lustrated by many tales, and when in 
 season, the frequency of its appearance 
 upon a homely English table is.no small 
 proof of the estimation in which it is 
 held. It should be thoroughly' cooked to 
 place its digestibility beyond a doubt. 
 In roasting, or in boiling, ample time 
 should be allowed for the joint. Pork is 
 always salted for boiling, and is much 
 liked in this form. When sent to table 
 roasted, apple sauce should in every case 
 accompany it. 
 
 It is universally used in every family, 
 and little used for company. 
 
 The griskin and the sparerib are cer- 
 tainly improved by being powdered with 
 chopped sage, but this is all a matter of 
 
 taste. The skin of the leg and loin must 
 be scored previous to roasting ; but take 
 care to preserve the skin, or crackling, 
 of a fine brown, as many persons look 
 upon it to be the best part of the pork ; 
 it should therefore be well basted, and 
 guarded from -being burned by a sheet of 
 oiled paper. Send both up with a glass 
 of vinegar mixed with two teaspoonfuls 
 of made mustard in the dish. 
 
 If you kill a young pig of four or five 
 months, take off the skin of the fore-quar- 
 ter, roast it, and serve with mint sauce 
 and salad. 
 
 790. POKK GEISKIN 
 
 Is usually very hard ; the best way to 
 prevent this is to put it into as much 
 cold water as will cover it, and let it boil 
 up ; then instantly take it off, and put it 
 into a Dutch oven ; a very few minutes 
 will do it. Remember to rub butter over 
 it, and then flour it, before you put it to 
 the fire. Lay it in a dish on melted but- 
 ter and mustard. It should be seasoned 
 with pepper and salt before roasting. 
 
 791. SPAEEEIB 
 
 Should be basted with a very little 
 butter and a little flour, and then sprin- 
 kled with dried sage crumbled. 
 
 792. TO EOAST A SUCKING PIG. 
 
 A sucking pig, which should be about 
 three weeks old, must be dressed as soon 
 after being killed as practicable. When 
 scalded and prepared for cooking, lay in 
 the belly a stuflSng of bread, sage and 
 onions, pepper and salt, with a piece of 
 butter ; sew it up, rub the skin of the pig 
 with butter, skewer the legs back, that 
 while roasting, the inside as well as out- 
 side of the pig may be thoroughly brown- 
 ed ; it must be put to a quick fire, but at 
 such a distance as to roast gradually, and 
 a coating of flour should be dredged over 
 
PORK. 
 
 319 
 
 it that it may not blister, or it should 
 not be left a minute ; if floured, when the 
 pig is done, scrape the flour off with a 
 wooden, or very blunt knife, and rub it 
 with a buttered cloth ; cut off the head, 
 and dividing it take out the brains, mix 
 them with a little gravy or bread sauce, 
 divide the pig in half, from neck to tail, 
 and lay each inside flat upon the" dish, so 
 that the two edges of the back touch; 
 place each half of the head with the outer 
 side uppermost at each end of the dish, 
 and an ear on each side ; the gravy should 
 be poured in the dish hot, and the whole 
 served as hot as possible ; as a matter of 
 convenience it is often sent to the baker's 
 oven ; a large piece of butter should ac- 
 company it for the baker to baste it with, 
 and upon its return it should be cut and 
 served as above. 
 
 The gravy may be heightened in its 
 flaver by various additions, or two or 
 three sauces and gravies may be served 
 with it, such as veal gravy thickened and 
 flavored with wine, lemon-juice, and cay- 
 enne, and also bread sauce and a plain 
 gravy; this may be a matter of taste. 
 
 It is usual to procure the pig from the 
 butcher ready prepared for cooking, but 
 in the event of its being required to scald 
 it after killing, we subjoin the following 
 receipt. 
 
 793. TO SCALD A SUCKING PIG. 
 
 Plunge the pig into cold water the in- 
 stant it is killed, let it remain five min- 
 utes, have ready pounded resin, and rub 
 well with it over the skin, plunge it into 
 a tub of scalding water, letting it remain 
 only half a minute, remove it, and imme- 
 diately take off the hair ; lose no time, if 
 the hair should not come freely from 
 some parts, rub it again with resin, and 
 put it into the scalding water, and then 
 remove the hair. When it is all off wash 
 it well with warm water, and then in 
 cold, changing the water several times 
 
 that no flavor of the resin may be re- 
 tained ; cut off the feet at the rst joint, 
 slit down the belly, and remove the en- 
 trails ; put aside the heart, liver and lights, 
 with the feet, wash again inside and out 
 the pig, dry it well, and keep it from the 
 air by covering it with a cloth. 
 
 794. TO KOAST A PIG. (Philadelphia.) 
 Take a pig not more than a month old, 
 remove the eyes and tongue, trim the 
 ears, cut off the feet, and clean it thor- 
 oughly. Wash and dry it ; rub it well, 
 inside and outside, with sage and season- 
 ing of salt and cayenne pepper. Boil 
 twenty good sized potatoes, mash them 
 while hot, add butter, a little milk, and 
 two minced onions and minced sweet 
 herbs, with seasoning of salt and pepper, 
 and bread-crumbs. Stuff the pig, and 
 fasten the opening with skewers. Roast 
 (or bake) it for three hours in a pan, 
 with water sufficient to form the gravy, 
 thickened with a little flour, and well 
 stirred. Baste the pig, while roasting, 
 with oil or butter, to make it brown ; and, 
 if necessary, add a little boiling water to 
 the gravy. The taste of a pig roasted 
 before the fire is preferable to one baked 
 in an oven. 
 
 Make the sauce of the feet, tongue, 
 liver and heart. The tongue must be 
 scalded and skinned, then boiled with the 
 feet, liver and heart; and when done, 
 minced fine and seasoned, with the addi- 
 tion of an onion, parsley ai& sweet herbs. 
 Boil all together ; rub a little butter with 
 flour, and stir it in with more seasoning 
 if desired, adding a glass of wine when 
 the sauce is taken up. 
 
 795. HIND-QUAETEE OF SUCKING PIG. 
 
 (Yorkshire Fashion.) 
 
 Cut off the skin, cover with paper, and 
 roast before a quick fire about three-quar- 
 ters of an hour ; ten minutes before being 
 ready, remove the paper and baste it; 
 serve with gravy under, and mint sauce 
 and salad. 
 
320 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 796. BOAST PIG. 
 
 Soak *in milk some light bread, boil 
 some sage and onions in plenty of water, 
 strain it off and chop it all very fine, press 
 the milk from the bread, and then mix 
 the sage and onion with pepper and salt ; 
 in the bread put the yolk of an egg to 
 bind it a little, put this in the inside of 
 the pig, rub the pig over with milk and 
 butter, paper it, roast it a beautiful brown, 
 cut off the head before it is drawn from 
 the spit, and likewise cut it down the 
 back, and then you will not break the 
 skin ; take out the spit, cut off the ears 
 from the head, and crack the bone and 
 take out the brains, put them in a stew- 
 pan with all the inside stuffing and a lit- 
 tle brown sauce ; dish the pig, the backs 
 outside, and put the sauce in the middle, 
 and some in a boat, the ears at each end. 
 
 797. A LEG OF POEK BOASTED. 
 
 The pork should be young and dairy- 
 fed ; score the skin with a sharp penknife, 
 a little fresh butter is sometimes rubbed 
 over the skin to* make it brown, and 
 crisp without blistering. Chop some 
 sage that has been scalded, very fine, add 
 to it an onion parboiled, mix bread- 
 crumbs and a small portion of apple chop- 
 ped very fine, mix all together, season 
 with pepper and salt, make an incision, 
 separating the skin from the fat in the 
 under and fillet end of the leg, and place 
 the stuffing Uhere ; the time of roasting 
 will depend upon the size of the leg ; serve 
 up with apple sauce. 
 
 798.-A LEG OF POBK BOILED. 
 
 After having been salted, it should be 
 washed in clean cold water, and scraped 
 thoroughly white and clean preparatory 
 to cooking ; it should then be put into a 
 floured cloth and into cold water on the 
 fire ; when the rind is" quite tender the 
 pork will be done ; let the water be well 
 skimmed, and serve with such vegetables 
 
 as are in season ; should the joint be large 
 allow a quarter of an hour to each pound, 
 with an additional twenty minutes from 
 the time it boils. 
 
 799. LOIN OF POEK 
 
 Should, like the leg, be scored before 
 roasting, and well jointed to make the 
 chops separate easily, and then roast as 
 a loin of mutton ; or it may be put into 
 enough water to covernt, simmer until it 
 is nearly done, then take it out, take the 
 skin off, coat it well with yolk of egg 
 and bread-crumbs, roast for about a quar- 
 ter of an hour, until it is thoroughly 
 done. 
 
 800. A FILLET OF POEK TO EESEMBLE 
 VEAL. 
 
 The fillet should be cut from the leg 
 of a very large pig ; remove the bone 
 and fill the orifice with veal stuffing; 
 roast it until it is more than half done, 
 then take some thin broth and put it in 
 the stewpan, put in the pork, stew until 
 it is thoroughly done, then thicken the 
 gravy, and send it to table with force- 
 meat balls and lemon cut in slices. 
 
 801. -NECK OF POEK EOLLED. 
 Bone it, chop sage finely ^ mix it with 
 well powdered bread-crumbs, cover the 
 meat with it on both sides, roll the pork, 
 fasten it securely, and roast it gently. 
 
 A hand and spring are sometimes 
 dressed thus. 
 
 * 
 
 802. SPAEEEIB OF POEK EOAST. 
 
 You must paper and joint this down 
 the middle, and sprinkle it with a little 
 fine sage and salt; baste and flour it 
 well ; apple sauce in a boat. 
 
 803. SPABEEIB. 
 
 A sparerib will take two hours and a 
 half to roast unless very large, and then 
 
PORK. 
 
 321 
 
 three hours will be required to cook it 
 thoroughly ; while roasting baste with 
 butter and dredge with flour ; pound 
 some sage and powder the sparerib with 
 it about twenty minutes before it is done ; 
 a pinch of salt may be added. 
 
 804. CHINE OF POEK. 
 
 This joint is usually sent to table with 
 turkey; it should be salted for about 
 sixty or seventy hours previous to cook- 
 ing^ and then be roasted ; it is usually 
 prepared so. 
 
 805. LEG OF POEK. 
 
 To Bake. Rub it well over with salt 
 and saltpetre mixed; let it lie five or 
 six days in the brine ; then hang it up 
 to smoke for five or six days. Take off 
 the skin, put it into -an earthen dish, and 
 pour a little red wine over it ; stick a 
 few cloves in it, or beat them to powder, 
 and rub them over it. When it has 
 been in the oven a short time, take some 
 hard biscuit, pounded with sugar, and 
 spread it all over. Serve it up with 
 gravy, and port wine sauce. 
 
 To Roast. Choose a small leg of fine 
 young pork: cut a slit in the knuckle 
 with a sharp knife, .and fill the space 
 with sage and onion chopped, and a little 
 pepper and salt. Score the skin in slices, 
 but do not cut deeper than the outer 
 rind. Put it at first a good distance 
 from the fire, but baste it frequently to 
 prevent its scorching : then, when about 
 tlfree parts done, rub the skin rather 
 firmly with raw butter, after which flour 
 it h'ghtly, and put close 4 to the fire 
 to crisp the crackling. Apple sauce 
 should be served with it. 
 
 To Boil. Salt it eight or ten days, 
 turning it daily, but do not rub it after 
 the first. When it is to be dressed 
 weigh it :' let it lie half an hour in cold 
 
 water to make it white : allow a quarter 
 of an hour for every pound, and half 
 an hour over, from the time it boils up : 
 skim it as soon as it boils, and frequent- 
 ly after, but do not boil it fast, or it will 
 be hard. Allow water enough. Save 
 some of the water to make pea-soup. 
 Some boil it in a cloth, floured, which 
 gives a very delicate look, but destroys 
 the value of the liquor for making soup. 
 
 806. POEK CUTLETS. 
 
 Perhaps few things of a simple nature, 
 and served in a plain way, are better 
 than a hot pork chop, cut about half an 
 inch thick, trimmed neatly, and broiled 
 upon the gridiron. 
 
 Or: Fry in salad-oil; serve with 
 sauce Robert or gherkin sauce, the gher- 
 kins being shred fine into some good 
 thick brown gravy. 
 
 Or : Marinade the cutlets four hours 
 in oil with an onion in slices, parsley, 
 bay-leaf, pepper, and salt ; fry them in 
 the marinade ; serve with tomato sauce. 
 
 807. MOCK GOOSE, OE LEG OF POEK 
 BOASTED WITHOUT THE SKIN. 
 
 Parboil it, and take off the skin ; then 
 put it down to roast ; baste it with but- 
 ter, and make a savory powder of minced 
 or dried sage, ground black pepper, salt, 
 and fine bread-crumbs ; add a little very 
 finely minced onion: sprinkle the leg 
 with this when almost roasted ; put half 
 a pint of made gravy into the dish, and 
 garnish the dish with balls of this dress- 
 ing fried or broiled. (Recommended ~by 
 a Lady of New York.) 
 
 808.-CHINE OF POEK 
 
 Generally used at Christmas. This, 
 when properly cured, is mostly used cold ; 
 boil it in a cloth, with a sauce of red 
 cabbage, or sauer kraut if cold; garnish 
 with parsley. 
 
322 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 809. ALL ROAST PORKS. 
 
 Be sure to cut the skin lengthways 
 into small strips, not very deep, to reach 
 the meat; send up apple sauce to all 
 roast porks. 
 
 810. TO PICKLE PORK 
 
 Dredge it with salt, pounded nearly as 
 fine as flour ; place upon four sticks cross- 
 ed upon a diy cold flag-stone, or in an 
 earthenware dish ; let it remain to drain 
 from eighteen to twenty-four hours, 
 then rub it well in with a brine, consist- 
 ing of one pound of salt, half a pound 
 of coarse brown sugar, two ounces of 
 saltpetre, and a quarter of an ounce of 
 salt prunel ; the last, if the pork is deli- 
 cate, may be omitted. If many pieces 
 are being salted, put them into a tub and 
 pack them closely, filling up the inter- 
 stices with common salt, place a weight 
 upon the top to keep the meat down, as 
 well as to prevent the admittance of any 
 air, and when taken out for cooking, 
 scrape off the salt, wash the pork in 
 several waters, or place it under a water 
 tap, letting the water run upon it two 
 or three minutes, turning it occasionally, 
 or it may lie in soak half an hour ; it 
 should be put to boil in cold water, and 
 when the rind is tender it will be done 
 enough. 
 
 811. BOILED PORK OF ALL KINDS. 
 
 The leg you must skin the same as 
 ham, and dish its back part upwards, 
 and glaze it ; place a ruffle at the knuckle ; 
 sauce, sauer kraut, or stewed red cab- 
 bage ; peas pudding to all pork when 
 boiled. 
 
 812. PIG'S CHEEK A HALF ONE. 
 
 Boil and trim in the shape of ham. 
 and if very fat, carve it as a cockle shell ; 
 glaze it well, or put bread-crumbs and 
 brown them : sauce as before. 
 
 818. PIG'S CHEEK. (A new method.) 
 Procure a pig's cheek nicely pickled ; 
 boil well until it feels very tender, tie 
 half a pint of split peas in a cloth, and 
 put them into a stewpan of boiling water, 
 boil about half an hour, take them out, 
 pass through a hair sieve, put them into 
 a stewpan with an ounce of butter, a 
 little pepper and salt, and four eggs, stir 
 them over the fire until the eggs are 
 partially set, then spread it over the 
 pig's cheek, egg with a paste-brush, sprin- 
 kle bread-crumbs over, place in the oven 
 ten minutes, brown it with the salaman- 
 der, and serve. 
 
 814. PIG'S FACE FOR BREAKFAST. 
 
 Cut the ears off, and take out the 
 tongue and brains, then lay them in salt 
 for two days, take them out of that, and 
 then use the ingredients as for tongues, 
 and dry them the same as hams. 
 
 815. PORK CUTLETS. 
 
 Cut from a neck, or what is called fore- 
 loin of pork, the best end, trim it as you 
 do lamb or mutton, leaving a little fat ; 
 scrape the bone, rub or chop some sage 
 fine, with a very little piece of shalot, 
 mix it up \vith only sufficient bread- 
 crumbs, put black pepper und salt into 
 the crumbs, herbs, dish each cutlet in 
 clarified butter or melted lard, press the 
 crumbs well upon the cutlets, have a 
 sautepan greased with lard, lay them 
 into it, fry them a nice light brown, 
 take them up and dry them on paper, 
 dish upon mashed potatoes, use sauoe 
 Robert, or soubise, or tomato, or any 
 other to taste. 
 
 816.-POEK CUTLETS. 
 
 Cut them from a small delicate loin of 
 pork, bone, and tririi them neatly, fry 
 them a light lirown, put into a small 
 stewpan a little vinegar, and eschalot 
 chopped very finely, two table-spoonfuls 
 
POKK. 
 
 323 
 
 of tomato sauce, and sufficient brown 
 gravy to make it tasty ; stew the cutlets 
 in the sauce five minutes, and send them 
 to table dished handsomely 5 if the cut- 
 lets are broiled they may be dipped in 
 yolk of egg and bread-crumbs, and broil- 
 ed over a clear fire, and served with to- 
 mato sauce, or sauce Robert. 
 
 817. POEK CHOPS OE 8TEAK3. 
 Cut from the best end of the loin, or 
 from the chump or leg if steaks ; re- 
 move the fat and skin, turn them fre- 
 quently and quickly while broiling; if 
 your gridiron be of the old fashion, it is 
 better to keep it aslant on the fire, the 
 handle being the lowest part, it prevents 
 very much of the fat from falling into the 
 fire, the flare of which is apt to impart a 
 disagreeable flavor to the chops ; this ob- 
 servation applies also to mutton chops, 
 and will be found useful if followed: 
 sprinkle them with salt when nearly 
 done, and rub with a little fresh butter 
 previous to serving ; if for a side dish gar- 
 nish with crisped parsley. 
 
 818.-POEK SAUSAGES. 
 
 There are many receipts for the mak- 
 ing of pork sausages. The peculiarity in 
 sausages being the quantity and variety 
 of herbs introduced, the prevalence of 
 some particular one gives the flavor, as 
 well as the peculiarity to each. The 
 presence of so many herbs is, however, 
 not always considered an agreeable fea- 
 ture, and many palates are offended at 
 that which forms to others the great 
 n^erit. The following is a very simple 
 receipt. 
 
 Take of the fat of pork one pound, that 
 of the loin of a large richly fed pig, or the 
 inward fat of a small one. Chop it fine- 
 ly with half a pound of lean pork ; add 
 to it four or five sage-leaves finely chop- 
 ped, some lemon thyme in a small quan- 
 tity, and three dessert-spoonfuls of crumb 
 of bread powdered ; be careful not to put 
 
 too much of the latter, as it tends to 
 turn the sausages sour if kept. Amalga- 
 mate these ingredients well, dust on 
 grated nutmeg, mace, and cloves in pow- 
 der, and finish with black pepper and 
 salt, being sure to season well ; the meat 
 may then be put into the skins, or may 
 be put in jars covered down from the air, 
 to be used for rolls or stuffing, or any re- 
 quired purpose. 
 
 All skin must be pared from the fat 
 before chopping, and every sinew re- 
 moved from the lean pork, as well as 
 any bone, or any thing which may im- 
 pair the taste when eaten. 
 
 819.-SAUSAGES. (Mrs. Ellis.) 
 
 Chop fresh pork very fine, the lean and 
 fat together. Then fill the skins, whicl*. 
 should be previously cleaned thoroughly. 
 A little flour mixed in with the meat, 
 tends to prevent the fat from running 
 out when cooked. Sausage-meat is good 
 done up in small cakes and fried. In 
 summer, when fresh pork cannot be pro- 
 cured, very good sausage-cakes may be 
 made of raw beef, chopped fine with salt 
 pork, and seasoned with pepper and sage. 
 When sausages are fried, they should not 
 be pricked, and they will cook nicer to 
 have a little fat put in the fryingpan with 
 them. They should be cooked slowly. 
 If you do not like them very fat, take 
 them out of the pan when nearly done, 
 and finish cooking them on a gridiron. 
 Bologna sausages are made of equal 
 weight each, of ham, veal, arid pork, 
 chopped very fine, seasoned high, and 
 boiled in casings till tender, then dried. 
 
 820. THE UNIVEES1TY EECEIPT FOE 
 POEK SAUSAGES. 
 
 To a couple of pounds of lean pork, 
 young, white, and delicate, put three 
 quarters of a pound of minced beef suet j 
 the pork must first be chopped very fine j 
 add thjree dessert-spoonfuls of bread 
 which has been dipped in port wine, 
 
'324: 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 dried and grated fine ; work it together 
 with the yolks of three eggs smoothly 
 beaten : season it with pepper and salt, 
 and dried sage ; a very little cayenne 
 may be introduced, and a very small piece 
 of garlic. Work the whole well together 
 in a mortar until it forms a paste ; it may 
 then be put into wide skins, or pressed 
 down into jars for future use. It is cut 
 into square pieces, dredged with flour, 
 fried in fresh butter, and sent to table on 
 a toast as a breakfast dish. 
 
 821. SAUCISSES 1 L'ESPAGNOLE. 
 
 Cut into chops the loin of a good sized 
 pig, bone it. and cut the meat into dice, 
 keeping the fat and lean separate, three 
 quarters of an inch square. Chop two 
 corns of garlic fine, add to it black pep- 
 per, Spanish pepper, and salt ; mix it well 
 together, and season the meat with it: 
 pour over it half a pint of an acid wine, 
 and when it has been drawn in by the 
 meat, add more, until the expiration of a 
 week ; then lay the meat in skins, alter- 
 nately fat and lean, and if any moisture 
 appears to be required give a little more 
 wine. Twist the skin, and tie it in the 
 lengths you require, and keep them in a 
 cool dry place. Tney may be boiled, 
 fried, broiled, grilled, toasted, served with 
 poultry or veal, or may be eaten with 
 bread alone. 
 
 822. PORK SAUSAGES. 
 
 Chop, particularly fine, about two or 
 three pounds of lean pork, and an equal 
 quantity of fat ; have ready some sage, 
 either dry or green, either passed through 
 a sieve or chopped very fine, a small 
 piece of shalot, a few grains of ground 
 cloves, season it with pepper and salt, 
 mix a few fine bread-crumbs up with it, 
 have your skins ready cleaned ; then fill 
 them, or if preferred roll into balls and 
 fry them ; you will tie them the length 
 you wish the sausages to be, prick the 
 skins with a fork before you fry them ; 
 
 you may do them in the oven if it should 
 be hot. 
 
 823. ANOTHER WAY. 
 
 Chop the pork as before, only add half 
 the quantity of lean veal, a pound of suet 
 chopped e'qually fine, have ready a French 
 roll soaked in milk but no crust, season 
 it well with pepper and salt, mix it all 
 well together. 
 
 824. LIVER PUDDING. 
 
 Boil pigs' livers, mince, and season 
 them with pepper, salt, and chopped 
 sweet marjoram and sage, adding cloves. 
 Put them in skins, prick them, and boil 
 slowly an hour or so. Keep them in 
 covered jars, to eat cold in slices, or to 
 fry in larger pieces. Boiled pigs' feet 
 may be mixed with the livers. 
 
 825. BOLOGNA SAUSAGES. 
 To ten pounds of beef take four of 
 pork ; chop and mix it, season well with 
 six ounces of salt, and some black and 
 cayenne pepper, cloves powdered, and 
 chopped garlic. Put the mixture into 
 beef skins, tie them, and put them into 
 brine strong enough to bear an egg, for 
 three weeks, turning them every day. 
 Then dry and hang them up to smoke. 
 
 826. HEAD CHEESE. 
 
 Boil the head, tongues, and feet of 
 freshly-killed pigs ; taking the skin from 
 the head first. When tender, chop the 
 meat, season it with salt, pepper, cloves, 
 minced sweet herbs, and mix thoroughly. 
 Put the mixture into deep pans, press it 
 down, cover it with an inverted plate, and 
 place a heavy weight on the bottom of 
 the plate. In three days take it out. and 
 serve in slices, to be eaten with mustard 
 and vinegar, at breakfast or supper. 
 
 827. A DIFFERENT TO A DIFFERENT 
 PALATE. 
 
 Chop pork as before, and an equal 
 quantity of fat, and the quantity of lean 
 
POEK. 
 
 325 
 
 veal, and the same of suet, and two or 
 three handfuls of fine bread-crumbs ; have 
 ready a few sage-leaves, a few of knotted 
 marjoram and one shalot ; pound all well 
 together, season with white pepper and 
 salt, either put them in skins or* roll 
 them, and fry them as above. 
 
 828. SPICED SAUSAGES. 
 Rub well into a piece of pork some 
 saltpetre, allspice, and black pepper, let it 
 lie several days, rubbing it each day, then 
 chop it small, and add to it two shalots 
 chopped fine, have ready cleaned well an 
 ox-gut, fill it with this meat quite tight, 
 tie both ends firm, let it be smoked as 
 hams, wrap it in a thin cloth, then let it 
 be well dried ; you may tie it into what 
 lengths you please before smoking ; this 
 will eat hot or cold. 
 
 829. WHITE SAUSAGES. 
 
 Have ready some well-dried oat-meal, 
 two or three onions to boil hi milk, chop 
 them very fine, chop two pounds of suet 
 very fine, mix about a pint of oatmeal to 
 the suet, add the onions, season all with 
 pepper and salt, rather predominant with 
 pepper and onions, filling the skins as 
 for former sausages ; if approved of add a 
 few currants and boiled rice in milk to 
 them. m 
 
 You may make sausages of any dressed 
 meats, either chicken or rabbits; chop 
 up the meat very fine, adding onions and 
 seasonings as in the above, with chop- 
 ped parsley and a few grains of pounded 
 mace ; add some bacon chopped instead of 
 suet, mix all together with two yolks of 
 eggs, a few bread crumbs and a few drops 
 of lemon-juice; fill this in the skins as 
 before, and broil or fry them. 
 
 830. SAUCISSES AUX CHATAIGNES. STEW- 
 ED SAUSAGE MEAT WITH CHESTNUTS. 
 
 Take twenty or thirty sound chest- 
 nuts, roast them over a slow fire, and 
 when sufficiently" roasted to remove the 
 21 
 
 husk take them off, peel them, removing 
 the inner skin as well as the husk, and 
 put them aside sufficiently near the fire 
 not to cool too readily. Cut into dia- 
 monds half a dozen thin slices of sausage 
 meat, and fry them brown in a little 
 fresh butter. When they are a good 
 color, take them out, and pour three 
 parts of the butter in which they have 
 been fried into a small well-tinned or 
 earthenware saucepan. Thicken it while 
 heating with a spoonful of flour, and 
 pour in gradually a pint of good gravy, 
 with a glass of old brown sherry, or two 
 of Madeira. Put in a fagot of herbs, 
 and season to palate, a little cayenne may 
 accompany the common pepper. As 
 soon as it boils, lay the sausage cakes 
 round the saucepan close to the sides, 
 leaving the centre clear, and in this space 
 put the chestnuts. Let them stew slow- 
 ly three quarters of an hour; then dish 
 them, arranging the sausage meat and 
 chestnuts in the same manner as in the 
 stewpan ; pour the gravy over them, re- 
 moving the fagot of herbs first, and serve. 
 
 881. TO COLLAE A PIG'S HEAD. 
 
 Clean thoroughly, and put it in pickle 
 for a week, boil it tender, then take out the 
 bones carefully, turn the upper part of 
 one cheek to the snout of the other 
 cheek, season them with pepper and salt, 
 roll it lightly in a cloth, and secure it, 
 then boil until it is very tender. Do not 
 remove the cloth when done, but place it 
 upon an earthenware dish, lay a heavy 
 weight upon it, and unbind when cold ; if 
 the cheek is a large and fat one. it will be 
 improved by laying a slice or two of lean 
 pork, or ham, between the cheeks before 
 binding them in the cloth. 
 
 832. PIG'S HEAD BAKED. 
 
 Let it be divided, and thoroughly 
 cleaned; take out the brains, trim the 
 snout and ears, bake it an hour and a 
 half, wash the brains thoroughly, blanch 
 
326 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 them, beat them up with an egg, pepper, 
 and salt, and some finely chopped or 
 pounded sage, and a small piece of butter ; 
 fry them or brown them before the fire ; 
 serve with the head. 
 
 Pig's head is profitable to buy. It is 
 often despised because cheap; but well 
 cooked, it is delicious. Well cleaned, the 
 tip of the snout chopped off, and put in 
 brine a week, it is in order for boiling. 
 The cheeks are better than any other 
 pieces of pork to "bake. The head is 
 good baked an hour and a half, and yields 
 abundance of sweet fat for shortening. 
 The butchers of Philadelphia make what 
 they call scrapple out of pig's cheek, boil- 
 ed and chopped very fine. The water in 
 which this meat has been boiled is thick- 
 ened with buckwheat and Indian meal 
 boiled hi it till sufficiently done. The 
 meat is added. When cold, it forms cakes, 
 which are sold in market and fried in 
 slices for breakfast by the purchaser. 
 
 833.-PIG'S HEAD BOILED. 
 
 This is the most profitable dish, though 
 not so pleasant to the palate ; it should 
 first be salted, which is usually done by 
 the pork butcher ; it should be boiled an 
 hour and a quarter, it must boil gently 
 or the meat will be hard ; serve with 
 vegetables. 
 
 834. PETTITOES. 
 
 Put them in just sufficient water to 
 cover them, add the heart and liver, boil 
 them ten minutes, take out the liver and 
 heart, and mince them small, and return 
 them to the feet, stew until quite tender, 
 thicken with flour and butter, season 
 with pepper and salt, serve up with sip- 
 pets of plain bread, or toasted bread; 
 make a pyramid of the minced heart and 
 liver, and lay the feet round them. 
 
 When pettitoes are fried, they should 
 be first boiled, then dipped in butter, and 
 fried a light brown. 
 
 835. PIGS' FEET A LA ST. MENEHOULD. 
 Clean the feet perfectly, cut them down 
 in two, then bind them with a tape to 
 prevent their shrinking or opening, and 
 boil them gently until they are rather 
 soft, with carrots, onions, parsley, thyme, 
 allspice, and bay-leaf ; let them cool in the 
 liquor. When required for use. take off 
 the tape, dip them in yolks of eggs and 
 butter about three parts melted ; season 
 them, then cover them with crumbs of 
 bread and finely minced parsley, with the 
 smallest quantity of shalot. Broil them 
 until highly browned, and serve dry, or 
 with sauce Robert. 
 
 836. SOUS*,. 
 
 Take pigs' feet, ears, &c., well cleaned, 
 simmer four or five hours, till they are 
 too tender to be taken out with a fork. 
 Take from the boiling water and put 
 them into cold water. Boil the jelly- 
 like liquor in which they were cooked, 
 with an equal quantity of vinegar ; add 
 cloves, allspice, cinnamon, and sufficient 
 salt to the souse, pack it down tight, and 
 put the liquor over it. 
 
 837. SOUSE. 
 
 Take pigs' ears and feet, clean them 
 thoroughly, then soak them in salt and 
 water, for several days. Boil them ten- 
 der and split them, they are then good 
 fried. If you wish to souse them when 
 cold, turn boiling vinegar on them, spice 
 with peppercorns and mace. Cloves im- 
 prove the taste, but turn them a dark 
 color. Add a little salt. They will keep 
 good pickled five or six weeks. Fry 
 them in lard. 
 
 838. PIGS' FEET STEWED. 
 
 Clean, split, and boil tender, put them 
 into a stewpan with enough gravy to 
 cover them, an onion sliced, a few sage 
 leaves, whole black pepper, allspice, and 
 salt ; stew forty minutes, strain off the 
 
POKE. 
 
 327 
 
 gravy, thicken with flour and butter, add 
 two spoonfuls of vinegar or one dessert- 
 spoonful of lemon pickle j serve it up 
 with the feet. 
 
 889. PIGS' FEET AND EAES FEIED. 
 
 They must be well cleaned, and boiled 
 until tender, and laid in vinegar and 
 water, with salt in it, until they are re- 
 quired for use ; to prepare them for cook- 
 ing, cut the feet in two, slice the ears, 
 dip them in butter, dredge with flour, 
 fry a nice color, and serve with melted 
 butter and lemon pickle. 
 
 840. PIGS' HAESLET 
 
 Is made with the liver and sweetbreads, 
 which must be well cleaned; add to 
 them pieces of pork both fat and lean, 
 chop finely sage and onions, season with 
 pepper and salt, and mix with the pre- 
 ceding ; put them in a cowl, tie it closely, 
 and roast. It may also be baked. Serve 
 with a sauce of port wine and water and 
 mustard, just boiled up, and put it into 
 the dish. 
 
 841. BAKED FAGOTS. 
 Having procured your pig's-fry, (the 
 quantity to be regulated by the size of 
 family.) wash and set it on the fire, in a 
 saucepan, with just sufficient water to 
 cover ; add a bunch of sage, and four or 
 five onions; let all boil ten minutes; 
 take out the meat, and cut in slices ; then 
 take out the sage and onions, and chop 
 it all finely together ; season with pepper 
 and salt ; cut the caul in pieces, and fill 
 with the meat about the size of an or- 
 dinary teacup , place them on a tin and 
 bake in a moderate oven ; do not throw- 
 away the water it was boiled in, but boil 
 it down to a sufficient quantity to serve 
 with the fagots as gravy. 
 
 842. WHITE PUDDINGS 
 
 Are made with beef suet and oatmeal, 
 
 flavored and seasoned. Take a pound 
 and a half of beef suet, chop it very 
 fine, and, having boiled a pound of oat- 
 meal, tightly wedged down in a small 
 white basin closely covered with a cloth 
 for five hours, scrape it into powder, and 
 mix it with the suet, two small onions 
 boiled and chopped fine, and season well 
 with white pepper and salt ; a small quan 
 tity of thyme and marjoram may be add- 
 ed at pleasure. Boil them an hour. 
 Like all sausages they must be pricked 
 while cooking, to suffer the hot air gene- 
 rated to escape, or they will burst. 
 
 843. BLACK PUDDINGS. 
 
 Stir three quarts of sheep's blood with 
 one spoonful of salt till cold, boil a 
 quart of grits in sufficient water to 
 swell them, drain, and add them to the 
 blood with a pound of suet, a little 
 pounded nutmeg, some mace, cloves, and 
 allspice ; a pound of the hog's fat cut small, 
 some parsley finely minced, sage, sweet 
 herbs, a pint of bread-crumbs, salt, and 
 pepper ; mix these ingredients well to- 
 gether, put them into well cleaned skins, 
 tie them in links, and prick the skins, 
 that while boiling they may not burst. 
 Let them boil twenty minutes, and cover 
 them with clean straw until they are 
 cold. 
 
 844.-BLACK AND WHITE PUDDINGS. 
 
 Procure the pig's blood, then add half 
 a pound of half-boiled rice, set it to cool 
 keeping it stirred , take a little more rice 
 boiled in milk, add it to the blood, cut 
 up about one pound of fat pork into 
 large dice, melt half a pound of lard and 
 pour into the blood and rice, then add 
 your fat, with a few bread-crumbs, three 
 shalots, a little parsley, some black pep- 
 per, cayenne pepper, and salt ; mix all 
 well together, then fill into skins as be- 
 fore ; tie them the length you wish them, 
 then boil them a quarter of an hour, take 
 
328 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 them out and lay them on some new 
 clean straw until cold, then give them 
 another boil for a few minutes, then turn 
 them as before until wanted ; put them 
 in the oven when you require them, or 
 fry them or broil them. 
 
 845.-TO MELT LARD. 
 
 Take the inner fat of a newly killed 
 pig and strip off the skin completely and 
 carefully, slice it and put it into a jar, a 
 sprig of rosemary may be placed with it, 
 and set the jar in a pan of boiling water ; 
 let it melt, and when perfectly fluid 
 pour it into dry clean jars, and cover 
 them closely ; it may be kept some time 
 in a dry place, and when used may be> 
 mixed with butter for pastry, for frying 
 fish, and many other purposes in cook- 
 ing. 
 
 846. HOG'S LAED 
 
 Should be carefully melted in a jar 
 put into a kettle of water and boiled : 
 run it into bladders that have been ex- 
 tremely well cleaned. The smaller they 
 are the better the lard keeps, as, after 
 the air reaches it, it becomes rank. 
 Put in a sprig of rosemary when melt- 
 ing. 
 
 This being a most useful article for 
 frying fish, it should be prepared with 
 care. Mixed with butter, it makes fine 
 crust for tarts. 
 
 84T. HAMS-BOILED HAM. 
 
 The ham should be soaked about 
 twelve hours, then wrapped in a clean 
 cloth, and laid upon stone flags for two 
 days, the cloth being kept moistened 
 with clean soft water ; this will render 
 it tender when cooked ; let *it be thor- 
 oughly scraped and cleaned, and placed 
 in the kettle, which in small families 
 will be found the most convenient mode 
 of cooking it ; they should be put in suf- 
 ficient water to cover them, which water, 
 
 when the ham is cooked, will be found 
 of the greatest service in making stocks 
 for soups ; the time it will require to 
 boil will depend upon the weight of the 
 ham : a small one three hours and a 
 half, which may progress according to 
 the weight* to six hours ; when it is done 
 remove the skin, if possible, without 
 breaking it, it prevents the ham when 
 cold becoming dry ; spread over the ham 
 bread-raspings, the dish should be gar- 
 nished with sliced boiled carrots. 
 
 848. TO COOK A HAM. - 
 
 An excellent manner of cooking a ham 
 is the following: Boil it three or four 
 hours, according to size ; then skin the 
 whole and fit it for the table ; then set 
 in the oven for half an hour, cover it 
 thickly with pounded rusk or bread- 
 crumbs, and set back for half an hour 
 longer. Boiled ham is always improved 
 by setting it in an oven for nearly an 
 hour, until much of the fat dries out, 
 and it also makes it more tender. 
 
 849. HAM, TO BOIL IN A SUPERIOR WAY. 
 
 Parboil the ham. then allow it to re- 
 main in the water all night, and finish 
 boiling the next day, so as to be in time 
 for dishing up; skim, and dust with 
 raspings, the same as directed before, and 
 you will have a more tender ham than 
 one dressed almost any other way. 
 
 850.-ECONOMICAL DISH. 
 
 Cut some pretty fat ham or bacon into 
 slices, and fry of a nice brown ; lay them 
 aside to keep warm ; then mix equal 
 quantities of potatoes and cabbage, 
 bruiseo" well together, and fry them in 
 the fat left from the ham. Place the 
 mixture at the bottom, and lay the 
 slices of bacon on the top. , Cauliflower 
 or broccoli, substituted for cabbage is 
 truly delicious, and, to any one possess- 
 ing a garden, quite easily procured as 
 
PORK. 
 
 329 
 
 those newly blown will do. The dish 
 must be well seasoned with pepper. 
 
 851.-TO CUKE A HAM. 
 
 For a ham of sixteen pounds, take a 
 pound and a half of common -salt, with 
 an ounce of saltpetre. Leave it some 
 days, then put in one pound of molas- 
 ses ; let the ham lie a month in the 
 pickle ; then hang it up. 
 
 852. PRACTICAL HOUSEWIFE'S CHEIST- 
 MAS HAM. 
 
 Soak the ham. be the weight whatever 
 it may, half the usual time in water ; 
 remove, wash well with cold water, place 
 in a pan large and deep enough to con- 
 tain it, cover with beer or good ale, and 
 let it remain until the required time for 
 soaking a ham of the size used has ex- 
 pired. Boil as usual until the skin can 
 be readily removed ; then place the ham 
 in a tin or an earthenware dish, and 
 cover with a common flour and water 
 paste, or surround with batter. Bake 
 in a moderately heated oven until done, 
 remove the paste or batter, cover with 
 bread-raspings, and serve hot. 
 
 Cooked in this manner, a ham acquires 
 the most delicious flavor. 
 
 853.-HAMS. 
 
 Skimmed milk, or milk and water, will 
 be found preferable to plain water for 
 soaking hams ; and they may also be 
 boiled in milk and water. 
 
 Where vegetables are plentiful, it is 
 desirable to boil ham with three heads of 
 celery, a couple of turnips, half a dozen 
 small onions, and a large bunch of sweet 
 marjoram, thyme, &c., put in after the pot 
 has been skimmed. These will extract 
 the salt and soften the meat. A piece of 
 coarse fresh beef, or any kind of meat, in 
 addition, will materially improve the ham, 
 as, in this manner of boiling it, the juices 
 of the meat and vegetables insinuate 
 
 themselves between the fibres of the ham, 
 after having dislodged the salt, by which 
 means the meat is enriched and rendered 
 tender. At first sight this will appear 
 an 'extravagant way of boiling a ham, 
 but it should be considered that the 
 broth will serve the purposes of the 
 family." If the meat and vegetables are 
 not approved, two pounds of fresh beef 
 dripping will answer nearly as well. 
 
 854, TO BOIL. 
 
 If long hung, soak it for twenty -four 
 hours in lukewarm water, changing it 
 frequently. Wash and brush it well: 
 trim off any rusty parts ; put it into a 
 boiler of water, and let it Dimmer from 
 three hours and a half to five hours, ac- 
 cording to its size. It is best to allow 
 time enough, as it is easy to take up the 
 ham when done, and keep it hot over 
 boiling water, covered closely. Take off 
 the skin as whole as you can, as it keeps 
 the cold ham moist when skewered on 
 again after dinner. 
 
 There can be no doubt that the fore- 
 going is an excellent mode of boiling a 
 ham, but many people prefer -to have it 
 baked) in which case send it to 1 the oven 
 in a deep pan, with half a pound of suet 
 over it to baste it occasionally ; or skin 
 it, cover it with a crust of coarse paste, 
 and, when taken from the bakehouse, 
 strip off the crust, rub it with yolk of 
 egg, on which put finely powdered crumbs 
 of bread strewed with a dredging-box, hi 
 the same manner as when the ham is 
 boiled. 
 
 In Spain and Portugal, where the hams 
 are generally fine, the method of dressing 
 them is to put the ham in cold water with 
 a large handful of brown sugar, to which 
 some persons add a quantity of the com- 
 mon country wine, and let it simmer on 
 the fire until parboiled, keeping the pot 
 well skimmed ; when taken out, the skin 
 is stripped off, and the ham covered with 
 brown sugar to the thickness of an inch. 
 
330 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 after which it is sent to the oven and 
 baked until thoroughly done. 
 
 A ham of fifteen pounds should be al- 
 lowed nearly two hours before the water 
 begins to boil, and as much more for sim- 
 mering until half done ; then from three 
 to four hours' baking, according to the 
 heat of the oven, which however should 
 never be allowed to be too hot. 
 
 When cold, twist some neatly fringed 
 letter-paper round the shank-bone. 
 
 855. TO BOAST. 
 
 Take a very fine ham (a Westphalia, if 
 you can procure it), soak it in lukewarm 
 water for a day or two, changing the 
 water frequently. The day before you 
 intend to cook it, take the ham out of the 
 water, and, having removed the skin, trim 
 it nicely, and pour over it a bottle of an 
 inferior white wine ; let it steep till next 
 morning, frequently during the day wash- 
 ing the 'wine over it j put it in a cradle- 
 spit in time to allow at least six hours 
 for slowly roasting it; baste with hot 
 water continually. When done, dredge 
 it with fine bread raspings, and brown 
 before the fire. 
 
 856. SPRING, OR FOREHAND OP PORK. 
 
 Out out the bone ; sprinkle salt, pep- 
 per, and sage dried, over the inside ; but 
 first warm a little butter to baste it, and 
 then flour it ; roll the pork tight, and tie 
 it ; then roast by a hanging jack. About 
 two hours will do it. 
 
 857. HAM GRAVY. 
 
 Take the wine in which the ham was 
 steeped, and add to it the essence or juice 
 which flowed from the meat when taken 
 from the spit ; squeeze in the juice of two 
 lemons ; put it into a saucepan, and boil 
 and skim it ; send it to table in a boat. 
 Cover the shank of the ham (which 
 should have been sawed short) with 
 bunches of double parsley, and ornament 
 it with any garnish you may think proper. 
 
 858. TO BOIL MUTTON HAM. 
 Put it on the fire in cold water ; let it 
 warm quickly, and allow it to boil only 
 twenty minutes ; then leave it in the pan 
 of water till cold. This plan renders it 
 moist, and answers when it is to be eaten 
 cold. 
 
 859. HAM AND EGGS FRIED. 
 
 Cut some nice slices of ham, put them 
 in a frying-pan ; cover them with hot 
 water, and set the pan over the fire. Let 
 it boil up once or twice ; then take out 
 the slices and throw out the water ; put 
 a bit of lard in the pan ; dip the slices in 
 wheat flour or finely rolled crackers, and 
 when the fat is hot, put them into the 
 pan ; sprinkle a little pepper over ; when 
 both sides are a fine brown, take them on 
 a steak dish ; put a little boiling water into 
 the pan. and put it in the dish with the 
 meat. Now put a bit of lard the size of 
 a large egg into the pan ; add a salt-spoon- 
 ful to it ; let it become hot ; break six or 
 eight eggs carefully into a bowl ; then 
 slip them into the hot lard ; set the pan 
 over a gentle fire. When the white be- 
 gins to set, pass a knife-blade, so as to 
 divide an equal quantity of white to each 
 yolk ; cut it entirely through to the pan, 
 that they may cook the more quickly. 
 When done, take each one up with a 
 skimmer spoon, and lay them in a chain 
 around the edge of the meat on the dish. 
 Fried eggs should not be turned in the 
 pan. 
 
 Spinach boiled and pressed free from 
 water, and chopped small, may be put on 
 the centre of a steak dish ; lay the fried 
 ham on it ; pour the gravy over ; place 
 the fried eggs around it. Vinegar may 
 be eaten with the spinach. 
 
 860.-POACHED EGGS WITH FRIED HAM. 
 
 Fry the ham as above directed ; take a 
 clean frying or omelette-pan ; nearly fill 
 it with boiling water ; set it over a gentle 
 fire ; break the eggs singly into a cup, and 
 
PORK. 
 
 331 
 
 slip each into the boiling water; cover 
 the pan for four or five minutes. When 
 done, take them up with a skimmer on 
 to a dish ; sprinkle a little pepper and salt 
 over ; add a small bit of butter, and serve 
 in a dish or over the ham. 
 
 861. TO CUEE HAMS. 
 
 [The lady from whom' this receipt is 
 procured, prides herself much on her 
 curing ; and often when asked her opinion 
 of a ham at the houses of her friends 
 speaking well of what is before her, will 
 add, " It is not like hams of my own 
 cur 'ing , of course ; but very nice," &c.] 
 EDITOR. 
 
 One ounce of saltpetre, one ounce of 
 allspice, one ounce of cayenne pepper, one 
 pound of brown sugar, one pound of salt, 
 for every two hams ; mix and rub well 
 over the hams for three or four days, lay- 
 ing them with the skin down in the tub 
 in which you mean to keep them. Then 
 make a pickle strong enough to bear an 
 egg, of cold water and salt : add to the 
 pickle about a pound of sugar, and one 
 ounce of saltpetre ; if for sixteen hams, 
 less in proportion. After lying three 
 weeks in pickle the hams will be fit to 
 smoke. After the hams come out* I al- 
 ways put in the pickle some plate pieces, 
 rumps and rounds of beef ; so that nothing 
 is wasted. 
 
 8S2. TO CUEE HAMS. 
 
 Pound some rock salt, saltpetre, and 
 common salt, and some coarse brown 
 sugar, mix it all well together, then put 
 it all to get hot, and while hot rub the 
 hams well with this, repeating it every 
 morning for a week ; let them lie in the 
 brine for another week, until all is well 
 incorporated in the meat ; then take them 
 out to drain on dishes, flour them and 
 hang them up to dry; you must be 
 guided a good deal by the size of the 
 hams. 
 
 The Virginia method of curing hams, 
 
 (which is considered very superior,) is to 
 dissolve two ounces of saltpetre, two tea- 
 spoonfuls of saleratus, in a salt pickle, as 
 strong as possible ; for every sixteen 
 pounds of ham, add molasses in the pro- 
 portion of one gallon to a hogshead of 
 water, then put in the hams and let them 
 remain three or four weeks. Then take 
 them out of the brine and smoke them 
 with the hocks downward, to preserve 
 the juices. They will smoke tolerably 
 well in the course of a month ; but they 
 will be much better to remain in the 
 smoke-house two or three months. Hams 
 cured in this manner are well flavored, 
 and will keep a long time. 
 
 863. TO EE8TOEE POEK. 
 
 In warm weather, the brine on pork 
 frequently becomes sour and the pork 
 tainted. Boil the brine, skim it well, and 
 pour it ba,ck on the meat boiling hot. 
 This will restore it even when it is much 
 injured. 
 
 864.-TONGUES 
 
 You will first lay in salt ; then use the 
 same hot preparations daily ; about ten 
 days will do for the tongues ; sheep's 
 tongues may be done the same, but less 
 time. 
 
 865. ASOTHEE EECEIPT TO CUEE HAM. 
 Let the ham hang for three days, 
 sprinkle it well during the time with salt. 
 Make a pickle of eight ounces of rock salt, 
 an equal quantity of common salt, two 
 ounces of saltpetre, the same of black 
 pepper, half a pound of common brown 
 sugar, and a quart of beer ; boil it, pour 
 hot upon the ham, turn it every day in 
 the pickle for three weeks, wipe it as dry 
 as possible, and bury it in bran. Smoke 
 it for a month over wood smoke ; it must 
 be sewed in a coarse strong wrapper. 
 
 866. TO BAKE A HAM. 
 Put the ham in soak previous to dress- 
 ing it ; if an old one, two hours will be 
 
332 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 required, but if not vSry old, an hour will 
 suffice. Wipe it very dry, and cover it 
 with a paste about an inch in thickness. 
 The edges being first moistened must be 
 drawn together and made to adhere, or 
 the gravy will escape. Bake it in a re- 
 gular well heated oven ; it will take from 
 three to six hours, according to its weight ; 
 when done remove the paste, and then the 
 skin. This must be done while the ham 
 is hot. If well baked and not too salt, 
 it will prove of finer flavor than if boiled. 
 
 867. TO MAKE HAM 8UTEEIOE TO WEST- 
 PHALIA. (Ude.) 
 
 As soon as the pig is cold enough to be 
 cut up, take the two hams, and cut out 
 the round bone, so as to have the ham 
 not too thick: rub them with common 
 salt, and leave them in a large pan for 
 three days j when the salt has drawn out 
 all the blood, throw the brine away, and 
 proceed as follows : for two hams of 
 about eighteen pounds each, take one 
 pound of moist sugar, one pound of com- 
 mon salt, and two ounces of saltpetre, 
 mix them together, and rub the hams 
 well with it, then put them into a vessel 
 large enough to contain them in the 
 liquor, always keeping the salt over them ; 
 after they have been in this state three 
 days, throw over them a bottle of good 
 vinegar. One month is requisite to cure 
 them ; during which period they must be 
 often turned in the brine ; when you take 
 them out, drain them well, powder them 
 with some coarse flour, and hang them in 
 a dry place. The same brine will serve 
 again, except that you must not put so 
 much salt on the next hams that you 
 pickle. If the hams are smaller, put only 
 three-quarters of a pound of salt, but the 
 salt will not do any harm if you do not 
 let them remain too long in the brine ; 
 if you can get them smoked, they are 
 then not so subject to be infested by ver- 
 min; no insect whatever can bear the 
 bitterness of the soot; the smoke of 
 
 wood is preferable to the smoke of coal. 
 Be particular that the hams are hung as 
 far as possible from the fire, otherwise 
 the fat will melt, and they will become 
 dry and hard and rank. 
 
 868. TO BEAISE A HAM IN THE FEENCH 
 FASHION. 
 
 . It is prepared for cooking in the same 
 manner as in the preceding receipt, but 
 when cleaned it is placed upon a layer 
 of new hay, which has previously been 
 laid evenly upon a clean white cloth, 
 which should also be thin, that the flavor 
 of the braise may be imparted. It is then 
 placed in a stewpan, with two parts water 
 to one part vin ordinaire, or any light 
 white wine, and suffered to come to a boil. 
 The scum must be removed, and then 
 vegetables added ; four carrots, three 
 onions, a fagot of herbs, and, if approved, 
 a little corn of garlic, perhaps less of that 
 powerfully flavored root. Simmer from 
 three hours and a half to six, according 
 to the weight ; when tender it is enough. 
 The skin should then be stripped off 
 carefully, and bread raspings strewed 
 over it. Powdered herbs, or parsley 
 chopped very fine, are sometimes mixed 
 with^the raspings, but taste must regulate 
 its admission or omission. 
 
 869 TO BEAISE A HAM. 
 Put the ham into water the night pre- 
 vious to cooking, and next day wash it in 
 warm water, trim it by cutting away all 
 the yellow fat and rusty parts ; take off 
 the knuckle, and pare down all the under 
 part ; put it in a stewpan, and just cover 
 it with water ; Jay in a slice of beef cut 
 into pieces, a few onions, a fagot of 
 sweet herbs, three small carrots, and a 
 little allspice ; simmer from three to six 
 hours ; it must depend entirely upon the 
 size and weight. Take out the ham, and 
 skin it ; glaze, and serve it upon a puree 
 of vegetables. The braise may be made 
 into a rich brown soup, thickened and 
 
PORK. 
 
 333 
 
 flavored with wine ; it may serve also for 
 the flavoring of soups. 
 
 870. HAM EASHERS OR SLICES 
 
 May be toasted, broiled, or fried. May 
 be served with spinach and poached eggs, 
 or boiled green peas. Stewed with green 
 peas, or cut in thin slices, divided in four 
 pieces, each piece rolled and fastened with 
 a skewer, roasted in a Dutch oven, and 
 served with peas. They should in all 
 cases be cut an even thickness, and cooked 
 without injuring the color. Bacon may 
 be dres.5ecl in the same manner. 
 
 871. -TO CUKE BACON. COBBETTS 
 RECEIPT. 
 
 The two sides that remain, and which 
 are called flitches, are to be cured for ba- 
 con. They are first rubbed with salt on 
 their insidus, or flesh ,sides, then placed 
 one on the other, the flesh sides upper- 
 most, in a salting trough which has a gut- 
 ter round its edges to drain away the 
 brine, for to have sweet and fine bacon, 
 the flitches must not be sopping in brine, 
 which gives it the sort of taste that bar- 
 rel pork and sea pork have, and than 
 which nothing is more villanous ; every 
 one knows how different is the taste of 
 fresh dry salt from that of salt in a dis- 
 solved state, therefore change the salt 
 often, once in four or five days ; let it 
 melt 'and sink in, but let it not lie too 
 lung; change the flitches, put that at bot- 
 tom which was first on the top, do this 
 a couple of times ; this mode will cost 
 you a great deal more in salt than the 
 sopping mode, but without it your bacon 
 will not be so sweet and fine, nor keep so 
 well. As for the time required in making 
 your flitches sufficiently salt, it depends 
 on circumstances, the thickness of the 
 flitch, the state of the weather, the place 
 wherein the salting is going on ; it takes 
 a longer time for U thick than a thin 
 flitch ; it takes longer in dry than in 
 damp weather ; it takes longer in a dry 
 
 than in a damp place ; but for the flitches 
 ot a hog of five score, in weather not very 
 dry or damp, about six weeks may do ; 
 and as yours is to bo fat, wliich receives 
 little injury from over salting, give time 
 enough, for you are to have bacon until 
 Christmas comes again. 
 
 The place for salting should, like a 
 dairy, always be cool, but always admit 
 of a free circulation of air ; confined air, 
 though cool, will taint meat sooner than 
 the mid-day sun accompanied by a breeze. 
 With regard to smoking the bacon, two 
 precautions are necessary : first, to hang 
 the flitches where no rain comes down 
 upon them, and next, that the smoke 
 must proceed from wood, not peat, turf, 
 nor coal. As to the time it requires to 
 smoke a flitch, it must depend a good deal 
 upon whether there be a constant fire 
 beneath, and whether the fire be large or 
 small ; a month will do if the fire be 
 prettj^ constant, and rich as a farm-house 
 fire usually is; but over-smoking, or 
 rather too long hanging in the air. makes V - 
 the bacon rust; great attention should 
 therefore be paid to this matter. The 
 flitch ought not to be dried up to the 
 hardness of a board, and yet it ought to 
 be perfectly dry ; before you hang it up 
 lay it on the floor, scatter the flesh side 
 pretty thickly over with bran, or with 
 some fine sawdust, not of deal or fir ; 
 rub it on the flesh, or pat it well down 
 upon it ; this keeps the smoke from get- 
 ting into the little openings, and makes 
 a sort of crust to be dried on. 
 
 To keep the bacon sweet and good, L~ 
 and free from hoppers, sift fine some clean 
 and dry wood ashes. Put some at the 
 bottom of a box or chest, long enough to 
 hold a flitch of bacon. Lay in one flitch, 
 and then put in more ashes, then another 
 flitch, and cover this with six or eight 
 inches of the ashes. The place where 
 the box or chest is kept ought to be dry, 
 and should the ashts become damp, they 
 should be put in the fire-place to dry, and 
 
334: 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 when cold put back again. With these 
 precautions, the bacon will be as good at 
 the end of the year, as on the first day. 
 
 It may be as well to observe in refer- 
 ence to the above receipt, given by the 
 very celebrated William Cobbett, in his 
 Cottage Economy, that most counties in 
 England have their peculiar method of 
 curing hams and bacon, each varying in 
 some slight degree from the other, and, 
 of course, each is considered orthodox. 
 But for simple general rules, the above 
 may be safely taken as a guide ; and those 
 who implicitly follow the directions given, 
 will have at the expiration, of from six 
 weeks to two months, well flavored, and 
 well cured bacon. 
 
 872. TO CUKE BACON FOE LAEDING. 
 It is of little use preparing a small piece 
 of bacon for larding, for different joints 
 require lardings of different lengths; a 
 piece of beef, for example, will, if of a 
 tolerable size, require very lengthy lard- 
 ings, as a fowl will require but small ones. 
 Ten to twenty pounds should at least be 
 prepared. Take fifteen pounds, and the 
 fatter it is the better ; rub it well with a 
 pound and a half of pounded common 
 salt ; if in one piece, lay it upon a board 
 with another over it ; if in more than 
 one piece, let each piece have a board 
 with a weight at the top ; keep it in a 
 cool place four or five weeks ; hang it to 
 dry but not to be smoked. 
 
 878. TO BOIL BACON. 
 
 If very salt, soak it in soft water two 
 hours before cooking. Put it into a 
 saucepan with plenty of water, and let it 
 boil gently ; if two or three pounds, it 
 will take from an hour to an hour and a 
 quarter; if "larger, an hour and forty 
 minutes will suffice. If a fine piece of 
 the gammon of bacon, it may when done 
 have the skin, as in hams, stripped off, 
 and have finely powdered bread raspings 
 strewed over it. It will improve the ap- 
 pearance when sent to table. 
 
 874 BACON, TO BEOIL. 
 
 Make up a sheet of paper in the shape 
 of a dripping-pan, cut your bacon into 
 thin slices, cut off the rind, lay the bacon 
 on the paper, put it over the gridiron, 
 set it over a slow fire, and it will broil 
 clearly. 
 
 875. BACON, TO MAKE. 
 
 Rub the bacon with a little common 
 salt, and let them lie till the brine runs 
 from them ; in a week rub off all the salt, 
 and put them in a tub, then rub into the 
 flitches a pound of saltpetre pounded and 
 heated, the next day do the same with 
 common salt, also heated ; let them lie a 
 week, often rubbing them ; do the same 
 for three weeks or a month, at the end 
 of that time dry and hang them up for 
 use. 
 
 876. BACON AND CABBAGE. 
 
 Boil some fine streaked part of bacon 
 with a little stock, and the ends of eight 
 or ten sausages, boil in the same stock 
 some white cabbages for two hours ; add 
 salt and spice, and serve very hoi ; place 
 your sausages and cabbage round your 
 dish, and the bacon in the middle. 
 
 877. MOCK BEAWNS. 
 
 Put four feet, two ears, and two chops 
 of a pig into two quarts of water, and let 
 it boil for several hours, till the bones can 
 be picked from the meat ; then pour it 
 into a basin ; skim off the fat. and take 
 away all the bones ; put it again into a 
 saucepan with a little chopped parsley 
 and sweet herbs, dried and rubbed small, 
 cayenne pepper, salt, and pounded mace, 
 let it boil for 'ten minutes ; dip a mould 
 into cold water, pour in the mixture ; let it 
 get cool; turn out, and garnish with 
 parsley and barberries, or slices of lemon. 
 
 878. EXCELLENT" SAUSAGE CAKES. 
 
 Chop some lean pork very fine, having 
 previously detached all the skin and 
 
PORK. 
 
 335 
 
 bone, and to every pound of meat add 
 three-quarters of a pound of fat bacon, 
 half an ounce of salt, a salt-spoonful of 
 pepper, the quarter of a nutmeg grated, 
 six young green chopped onions, and a 
 little chomped pacsley ; when the whole 
 is well chopped, put into a mortar and 
 pound well, finishing with three eggs ; 
 then have ready a pig's caul, which cut 
 into pieces large enough to fold a piece 
 of the above preparation the size of an 
 egg, which wrap up, keeping the shape 
 of an egg, but rather 'flattened, and broil 
 very gently over a moderate fire. 
 
 879. PIGS 1 FEET. (Soyer.) 
 
 Procure six pigs' feet nicely salted, 
 which boil in water, to which you have 
 added a few vegetables, until well done, 
 cut each one in halves, take out the long 
 bone, have some sausage-meat as in the 
 last, and a pig's caul, which cut into 
 pieces each large enough to fold half a 
 foot, well surrounded with sausage-meat ; 
 when well wrapped up broil slowly half 
 an hour over a moderate fire, and serve. 
 Or, when the pigs' feet are well broiled, 
 egg over, and throw them into some 
 grated crust of bread, with which you 
 have mixed a little parsley, broil a nice 
 color, and serve with a little plain gravy. 
 This is called a la Ste. Menehould. 
 
 880. PIGS' KIDNEYS. 
 
 Cut them open lengthwise, season well 
 with pepper and salt, egg over with a 
 paste brush, dip into bread-crumbs* with 
 which you have mixed some chopped 
 parsley and eschalot, run a skewer 
 through to keep them open, and broil for 
 about a quarter of an hour over a 'good 
 fire ; when done place them upon a dish, 
 have ready an ounce of butter, with 
 which you have mixed the juice of a 
 lemon, a little pepper and salt, and a tea- 
 spoonful of French or common mustard ; 
 place a piece upon each of the kidneys, 
 
 place in the oven for one minute, and 
 serve. Pigs' kidneys may also be sauted 
 as directed for ox kidneys. 
 
 DISHES FROM THE REMAINS OP PORK. 
 
 881. HASHED POEK. 
 
 Put two spoonfuls of chopped onions 
 into a stewpan, with a wineglassful of 
 vinegar, two cloves, a blade of mace, and 
 a bay-leaf; reduce to half, take out the 
 spice and bay-leaf, add half a pint of 
 broth or water, cut some pork previously 
 cooked into thin, small slices, season well 
 upon a dish with pepper and salt, shake 
 a good teaspoonful of flour over, mix all 
 together, and put into the stewpan ; let 
 simmer gently ten minutes, pour out 
 upon your dish, and serve with slices of 
 gherkins in it ; a little mustard may be 
 added, if approved of. or a little piccalilly 
 with the vinegar is excellent. 
 
 The remains of salt pork, though very 
 palatable cold, if required hot, may be 
 cut into large thin slices, and placed in a 
 buttered saute or fryingpan, with a little 
 broth, or merely fried in the bntter, and 
 served with a puree of winter peas, made 
 by boiling half a pint of peas until ten- 
 der ^tied up in a cloth); when done, put 
 them into a stewpan with two ounces of 
 butter ; season with pepper and salt, add 
 a gill of milk or cream, pour into the 
 dish, and dress the pork over. 
 
 It may also be cut into thin slices and 
 put into a soup plate, and pour some 
 ketchup or Harvey sauce over it, and let 
 it remain for half an hour ; butter the 
 inside of a pudding basin, and lay some 
 of the remains of peas pudding round it, 
 and then place in the pork, cover it with 
 some of the pudding, place it in a sauce- 
 pan with a little water to get hot, for 
 about half an hour, and then turn it out 
 and serve. Should you not have quite 
 pork enou.;h, you may make it up with 
 a little sausage-meat or any other kind 
 of meat. 
 
336 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 882. FKITADELLA. (Twenty receipts in one.) 
 Put half a pound of crumb of bread 
 to soak in a pint of cold water, take the 
 same quantity of any kind of roast or 
 boiled meat, with a little fat, chop it up 
 like sausage-meat, then put your bread 
 in a clean cloth, press it to extract all 
 the water, put into a stewpan two ounces 
 of butter, a table-spoonful of chopped 
 onions, fry for two minutes, then add the 
 bread ; stir with a wooden spoon until 
 rather dry, then add the meat, season 
 with a teaspoonful of salt, half the same 
 of pepper, a little grated nutmeg, the 
 same of lemon-peel, stir continually until 
 very hot ; then add two eggs, one at a 
 time, well mix together, and pour on a 
 dish to get cold. Then take a piece as 
 big as a small egg, and roll it to the 
 same shape, flatten it a little, egg and 
 bread-crumb over, keeping the shape ; do 
 all of it the same way ; then put into a 
 saute-pan, a quarter of a pound of lard, 
 or clean fat ; or oil; when hot, but not 
 too much so, put in the pieces, and saute 
 a very nice yellow color, and serve very 
 tot, plain, on a napkin, or on a border of 
 mashed potatoes, with any sauce or gar- 
 niture you fancy. These can be made 
 with the remains of any kind of meat, 
 poultry, game, fish, and even vegetables ; 
 hard eggs, or cold mashed potatoes may 
 be introduced in" small quantities, and 
 may be fried instead of sauted, in which 
 case put about two pounds of fat in the 
 frying-pan, and if care is used it will do 
 several times. This is an entirely new 
 and very economical and palatable dish, 
 and fit for all seasons, and if once tried 
 would be often repeated ; the only ex- 
 pense attending it is the purchase of. a 
 small wire sieve for the bread-crumbs. 
 The reason I call it twenty receipts in 
 one is, that all kinds of food may be 
 used for it, even shrimps, oysters, and 
 lobsters. 
 
 882. BAMIFOLLE. 
 
 These are a little more expensive than 
 
 the fritadella, and worthy the table of a- 
 crowned head. The flesh of fowls in- 
 stead of lamb or veal, with the addition, 
 of one or two fat livers cut in dice. 
 Proceed as in the former receipt, using 
 the crumb of French rolls, ^and one or 
 two truffles cut fine : then make some 
 pancake batter, and saute two pancakes 
 about one-eighth of an inch thick, Cover 
 one with the meat. &c., and lay the other 
 over, and put by until cold ; when so, 
 cut them to any shape you like, but if 
 like cutlets add the small bone of fowl 
 or pigeon, or the stalk of a sprig of pars- 
 ley; egg and bread-crumb them, and 
 saute them in oil or lard of a nice yel- 
 low color, and dish them like cutlets, 
 with any of the sauces or garnitures de- 
 scribed for mutton cutlets ; or if plain, 
 with fried parsley. They may be made 
 of any kind of meat, fish, or poultry. 
 I have latterly had them sent up to table 
 when we have had a few friends, and 
 they have been very much liked; and, 
 on inquiring the name, I baptized them 
 Ramifolle, 'without any particular mean- 
 ing, which name having pleased as much 
 as the dish, therefore let them be called 
 Ramifolles. 
 
 They may be made a plainer way 
 with various meats or liver, and spread 
 over one pancake, which roll over, and 
 when cold cut it into three equal lengths, 
 egg, bread-crumb, and saute as above. 
 
 884 PKUSSIAN CUTLHTS. 
 
 Take a piece of veal, say one pound, 
 from any part of the calf, free from nerve, 
 with a little fat, chop it up. but not too 
 fine, add to it two teaspoonfuls of chop- 
 ped eschalot, one of salt, half a one of 
 pepper, a little grated nutmeg, chop it a 
 little more, and make it into pieces of 
 the size of two walnuts, to which give 
 the shape of a cutlet ; egg and bread- 
 crumb each ; insert a small bone at the 
 small end, saut6 it in fat, oil, lard, or 
 butter, give it ten minutes on a slow fire 
 
SAUSAGES. 
 
 337 
 
 till a nice brown color, dish and serve 
 with demi-glaze sauce, in which you have 
 put a spoonful of Harvey's, and serve 
 with any brown or white sauce of stew- 
 ed vegetables you like. Any kind of 
 meat may be used. * 
 
 885. CUTLETS A LA VICTIME, OE VICTIM- 
 IZED CUTLETS, 
 
 Invented by a culinary artist in the 
 time of Louis XVIII, of France, at the 
 .palace of the Tuileries, and first partaken 
 of by that intellectual monarch and 
 gourmet, who, at the end of his stormy 
 reign, through a serious illness, was com- 
 pletely paralyzed. The functionary or- 
 gans of his digestion were much out of 
 order ; being a man of great corpulence, 
 and a great admirer of the festive board, 
 much food was required to satisfy his 
 royal appetite : and the difficulty which 
 his physicians experienced was to supply 
 this want of food in the smallest com- 
 pass. The head-cook, on being consult- 
 ed, begged a few hours for reflection be- 
 fore he could give an answer to so im- 
 portant a question, as nothing but mut- 
 ton entirely deprived of fat was to com- 
 pose his Majesty's meal. After profound 
 study by the chief and his satellites, a 
 voice was heard from the larder, which 
 was a considerable ways from the kitchen, 
 crying, "I have found it, I have found 
 it." It was that of a young man of the 
 name of Alphonse Pottier, who, in say- 
 ing so, made his appearance in the 
 kitchen with three beautiful mutton cut- 
 lets tastefully trimmed and tied together ; 
 he then, with a small skewer, fastened 
 them to a spit, and placed them, to the 
 astonishment of all present, close to the 
 bars of the grate : two of the cutlets 
 soon got brown (observe, not a word 
 was to be said until the trial was made), 
 from brown they soon turned black; 
 every one gazed at each other with as- 
 tonishment, whilst Pottier, with quite a 
 composed countenance, terminated his 
 
 scientific experiment, took them off the 
 spit, drew the skewer out, cut the string, 
 threw the two burnt cutlets away, and 
 merely served the middle one, which 
 seems to have received all the nutriment 
 of the other two ; it was served, and 
 greatly approved of by the physicians, 
 as well as by the gourmet potentate, 
 who, in consequence of two being sacri- 
 ficed for one, named it, " Cutlet a la Vic- 
 time," and often afterwards used to par- 
 take of them when in the enjoyment of 
 health. 
 
 886.-CUTLET A LA VICTIME. 
 
 Cut three cutlets frc^m the neck of 
 mutton, about half an inch thick, trim 
 on very nicely, free from fat, leave the 
 other two as cut off, put the trimmed 
 one between the two, flatten them to- 
 gether, "so that the fat of the outside 
 ones meet over the middle one; the 
 them together thus, and broil over a very 
 strong fire for ten minutes ; remove it 
 from the fire, cut the string, and dish up 
 the middle one only on a very hot dish, 
 with a little salt sprinkled over it. If 
 wanted roasted, proceed as above. 
 
 SAUSAGES AND FOKCE- 
 MEAT. 
 
 887. SAUSAGES. 
 
 IN making sausages there is so great 
 a variety of both meat and condiments, 
 that the cook need not be tied down to 
 any rule of composition. The usual mode 
 is to put the preparation into the cleaned 
 skins of the entrail-puddings of the 
 smaller animals ; in which the sausages, 
 being always well seasoned, will keep 
 sound for a few days, and are then broil- 
 ed as a garnish for large dishes, or fried 
 for breakfast. As these skin^ are, how- 
 ever, not always to be found, the sau- 
 sage meat may then be bound together 
 
338 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 with the yolk of egg and bread-crumbs, 
 made into the form of sausages, or as 
 croquettes of any small size ; then flour- 
 ed, nicely warmed, and browned in the 
 frying-pan or Dutch oven until perfectly 
 done. 
 
 If more be made than is wanted for 
 immediate use, it may be put away in a 
 cool place, packed closely down, in a 
 stone jar, and securely covered for some 
 other occasion. For the spicing of sau- 
 sages no rule can be laid down, as tastes 
 and custom are constantly varying. 
 
 888. COMMON SAUSAGE-MEAT. 
 
 Take any quantity of lean beef or 
 pork, with half the quantity of fat. and 
 having freed the lean of every particle 1)f 
 skiq, sinew, and gristle, then mince both 
 it and the fat as fine as possible ; putting 
 to each pound of meat a large teaspoon- 
 ful of pepper and the same quantity of 
 salt; strew this on the meat, and mix 
 the whole thoroughly together, as a 
 stock for further seasoning. 
 
 Take six pounds of meat, fat and lean ; 
 cut the fat into small pieces, and pound 
 the lean portion in a mortar, with two 
 table-spoonfuls of salt, one of moist 
 sugar, a teaspoonful of saltpetre, and two 
 table-spoonfuls of mixed spices. To this 
 may be added the grated peel of a lem- 
 on, and a small portion of sage and 
 thyme, well chopped. 
 
 Or : To the meat of a leg of pork of 
 about four pounds' weight, add two 
 pounds of fat from the fore loin, chop 
 both very fine; then add two nutmegs 
 grated, twenty cloves, a teaspoonful of 
 pounded or grated lemon-peel, two or 
 three blades of mace pounded, one ounce 
 of the best salt, and one-half ounce of 
 black pepper ; mix all together and stuff 
 it into the skins, which should be well 
 cleansed, and salted the night before. 
 This sausage-meat would be much im- 
 proved for immediate use, by pounding 
 
 the meat and mixing it with a third por- 
 tion of white bread soaked in milk and 
 also pounded, blending the whole to- 
 gether with a beaten egg. 
 
 889. BEEF -SAUSAGES, , 
 Though not nearly so good as those of 
 pork, yet, if made at home, may be found 
 a pleasant and economical mode of using 
 the scraps of raw meat. Proceed as for 
 pork sausages. 
 
 890. MUTTON SAUSAGES. 
 
 Take a pound of undressed mutton, or 
 that which has been underdone, chop it 
 very small, and season it with pepper, 
 salt, and beaten mace. Chop also half 
 a pound of beef suet, two anchovies, a 
 pint of oysters, a quarter of a pound of 
 grated bread, and a boiled onion ; mix 
 the whole with the oyster liquor, and 
 the whites and yolks of two eggs well 
 beaten ; pound the whole in a mortar. 
 Roll into lengths, corks, or balls, and fry 
 them. 
 
 891. AN EXCELLENT SAUSAGE TO EAT 
 COLD. 
 
 Season fat and lean pork with some 
 salt, saltpetre, black pepper, and allspice, 
 all in fine powder, and rub into the meat ; 
 the sixth day cut it small, and mix with 
 it some shred shalot, or garlic, as fine as 
 possible. Have ready an ox-gut that 
 has been scoured, sailed, and soaked well, 
 and fill it with the above stuffing ; tie 
 up the ends, and hang it to smoke as you 
 would hams, but first wrap it in a fold 
 or two of old muslin. It must be high- 
 dried. Some eat it without boiling, but 
 others like it boiled first. The skin 
 should be tied in different places, so as 
 to make each link about eight or nine 
 inches long. 
 
 892. OYSTEE SAUSAGES. 
 Take one pound of veal anrl a score of 
 oysters bearded, then pound the veal very 
 finely in a mortar with a little suet, sea- 
 
SAUSAGES. 
 
 339 
 
 son with a little pepper, soak a piece of 
 bread in the 'oyster-liquor, pound, and 
 add it with the oysters cut in pieces to 
 the veal ; beat up an egg to bind them 
 together, and roll them into little lengths, 
 like sausages ; fry them in butter a deli- 
 cate brown. 
 
 Or : Take half a pound of lean mut- 
 ton or beef, with three-quarters of a 
 pound of beef suet, and two score of 
 oysters bearded. Mince the whole and 
 add bread-crumbs, with two yolks of 
 eggs to bind the materials together. 
 Season with salt, white pepper, a little 
 mace, and mushroom powder. 
 
 Put it either in skins, or fry the sau- 
 sage-meat of a light brown in small 
 pieces. 
 
 893 VEAL AND POULTRY SAUSAGES. 
 
 Sausages may also be made of the re- 
 mains of veal, turkey, or fowl, which 
 have been dressed. Of either of these 
 put equal quantities of meat and bread- 
 crumbs, with half that of ham, seasoned 
 with parsley, lemon-thyme, and chives. 
 Mix the materials with a little pepper, 
 salt, and pounded mace, the yolk of an 
 egg, and half a teaspoonful of flour; 
 make it up as saugages or small rolls to 
 garnish fricassees or minced meat, t>r as 
 a nice supper dish, piled round a sweet- 
 bread. 
 
 Or: Chop equal quantities of lean 
 veal and fat bacon, a handful of sage, a 
 little salt nd pepper, and a few ancho- 
 vies, beat all in a mortar ; and when used, 
 roll and fry it, and serve it with fried 
 sippets, or on stewed vegetables, or on 
 white collops. 
 
 894. FOWL OK BABBIT SAUSAGES. 
 
 Take the remains of a fowl, rabbit, or 
 hare ; when boiled or roasted, free it 
 from the bones, and cut it small. Boil 
 som'e onions in strong gravy ; when the 
 onions are quite soft pound them, season 
 
 with salt, pepper, parsley, two cloves, 
 and a blade of mace ; pound the meat 
 also, cut some bacon into small pieces, 
 and add it. Mix up these ingredients 
 with the yolk of an egg, add a little 
 lemon-juice or lemon-pickle, or chop a 
 little sorrel with the herbs, fill the skins, 
 and broil them. 
 
 Such are the sausages usually made 
 in this country, and most commonly 
 eaten fresh ; but, in Europe, many sorts 
 are made of a rather large size, sea- 
 soned in different modes, and smoked, 
 with the intention of keeping them good 
 for a long time, as the Brunswick, Bay- 
 onne, and Bologna, which may always 
 be found in the foreign oil-shops in Eng- 
 land. There is, however, another kind, 
 which we Jo not recollect to have ever 
 seen in London, though constantly used 
 throughout the peninsula. 
 
 895. SPANISH AND PORTUGUESE SAU- 
 SAGES 
 
 Are made from the fat and lean of the 
 back and loins of a well-fed two-year- 
 old hog, cut into small pieces of less than 
 half an inch square, and then either fine- 
 ly minced or pounded together, and 
 strongly seasoned with cloves of garlic 
 and green or red capsicums or chilis ; 
 but as these cannot always be conveni- 
 ently procured in this country, cayenne 
 pepper may be substituted. The whole 
 should then be covered with any sort o* 
 strong, dry wine, until absorbed by the 
 ingredients, which will occupy perhaps a 
 few days, according to the quantity. 
 
 Fill the largest skins you can get with 
 the meat, fat and lean, alternately, occa- 
 sionally adding some of the wine. Tie 
 up in links, and- hang them in a room 
 where they will not get damp or become 
 too dry, and they will keep twelve 
 months. 
 
 They are sometimes fried, and eaten 
 either alone or as a relish with poultry, 
 but more frequently put into stews ; and, 
 
340 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 in Spain, always boiled along with the 
 olla, under the name of " Ghorisos" 
 
 896. BLACK PUDDINGS. 
 
 The blood must be stirred with salt till 
 cold. Put a quart of it ; or rather more, 
 ^to a quart of whole grits, to soak one 
 night ; and soak the crumb of a wheat 
 loaf in rather more than two quarts of 
 new milk made hot. In the mean time 
 prepare the guts b'y washing, turning, and 
 scraping, with salt and water, and chang- 
 ing the water several times. Chop fine 
 a little winter savory and thyme, a good 
 quantity of pennyroyal, pepper, and salt, 
 a few cloves, some allspice, ginger, and 
 nutmeg ; mix these with three pounds of 
 beef suet, and six eggs well beaten and 
 strained ; and then beat the bread, grits, 
 &c., all up with the seasoning ; when well 
 mixed, have ready some hog's fat cut into 
 dice, and, as you fill the skins, put it in 
 at proper distances. Tie in links only 
 half filled, and boil in a large kettle, 
 pricking them as they swell, or they will 
 burst. When boiled, lay them between 
 clean clothes, or upon straw, till cold, and 
 hang them up in the kitchen. When to 
 be u^ed, scald them a few minutes in 
 water ; wipe, and put them into a Dutch 
 oven. 
 
 If there are not skins enough, put the 
 stuffing into basins, and boil it covered 
 with floured cloths ; and slice and fry it 
 when used. 
 
 Or : Soak all night a quart of bruised 
 grits in as much boiling hot milk as will 
 swell them, and leave half a pint of liquid. 
 Chop a good quantity of pennyroyal, 
 some leaves of sage, savory, and thyme, 
 with salt, pepper, and allspice finely pow- 
 dered. Mix the above with a quart of 
 the blood, prepared as before directed; 
 then half fill the skins, after they have 
 been cleaned thoroughly, and put as much 
 of the flare (that is, the inward fat) of the 
 pig as will make it pretty rich. Boil as 
 before directed. A small quantity of 
 
 leeks, finely shred and we]l mixed, is a 
 great improvement. 
 
 897.- WHITE PUDDINGS. 
 
 To two parts of beef suet chopped, add 
 one part of oatmeal previously toasted 
 before the fire ; boil an onion or two, and 
 'chop them with pepper and salt ; mix the 
 whole well together ; put the ingredients 
 into skins, and boil them for an hour, 
 pricking Ihem as they boil to prevent 
 their bursting. *Chey will keep for some 
 time in bran after they have been allowed 
 to become cold. Parboil them when 
 wanted, and' then broil them on a grid- 
 iron. 
 
 The quantity of suet may seem dispro- 
 portioned to the oatmeal; but unless 
 there are two-thirds of the former to one 
 of the latter, the puddings will be dry 
 and fat. They require to be highly sea- 
 soned with pepper and onions. 
 
 FOBCEMEAT. 
 
 French cooks pride themselves, and 
 very justly, on the pains which they be- 
 stow on the elaboration of their force- 
 meat, or farce. It is an art in which 
 they have attained superior excellence, 
 but in which there is no great difficulty. 
 
 At many tables, where every thing else 
 is well done, it is common to find very bad 
 stuffing, which, according to what it is 
 wanted for, should be a judicious se- 
 lection, observing that of the most pun- 
 gent articles least must be used. A gen- 
 eral fault is, that the tastes of lemon- 
 peel and thyme overcome all others, 
 therefore they should only be used in 
 small quantities; and except in a few 
 very savory dishes, cayenne, and pepper 
 of all kinds should be sparingly used. 
 No one flavor should predominate great- 
 ly > yet if several dishes be served the 
 same day, there should be a marked va- 
 
FORCEMEAT. 
 
 341 
 
 riety in the tastes of the forcemeats as 
 well as of the gravies. 
 
 The forcemeat should be consistent 
 enough to be cut with a knife, but not 
 dry and heavy. Herbs are a very essen- 
 tial ingredient, and it is the copious but 
 judicious use of them that chiefly gives 
 the cookery of the French its superior 
 flavor. " i " 
 
 Bacon or butter must always be sub- 
 stituted for suet when the forcemeat is 
 to be eaten cold. 
 
 The flavor given to the bread, or panada, 
 is considered to be of great importance, 
 and the highest point of perfection may 
 be obtained by attending to the following 
 directions : 
 
 898. HOW TO MAKE QUENELLES OF 
 FOECEMEAT. 
 
 Have two table-spoons, dessert or tea- 
 spoons, according to the size you intend 
 making quenelles ; fill one of them with 
 the forcemeat ; dip the other spoon into 
 boiling water, and with it remove the 
 forcemeat from the first spoon, and slip 
 it from that into a buttered saute-pan, 
 proceeding thus until you have as many 
 as you require ; then cover them with 
 some second stock, and boil them about 
 ten minutes, or until firm, and they are 
 ready for use. 
 
 809. PANADA FOE FOECEMEATS. 
 
 Put two-thirds of half a pint of water 
 into a stewpan holding a quart, with near- 
 ly an ounce of butter ; when boiling, stir 
 in a quarter of a pound of flour ; keep it 
 moving over the fire until it forms a 
 smooth and toughish paste ; take it out 
 of the stewpan, and when cold, use it 
 where directed. 
 
 900. STUFFING FOE VEAL. 
 
 Chop up half a pound of beef suet very 
 fine ; put it in a basin, with eight ounces 
 of bread-crumbs, a table-spoonful of 
 chopped parsley, a little powdered thyme 
 
 22 
 
 and marjoram, half the rind of a lemon 
 grated, and the juice of half a one ; sea- 
 son with a spoonful of salt, and a quarter 
 one of pepper, and one- quarter of a nut- 
 meg ; mix the whole with three whole 
 eggs ; this will do also to stuff turkey or 
 baked fish, adding some more chopped 
 parsley. 
 
 901. STUFFING- FOE HAEE OE TURKEY. 
 Take half a pound of beef suet chopped 
 very fine, some parsley, a little thyme, 
 pepper, salt, and spices, the same quantity 
 of crumbs of bread as of suet, an egg or 
 two, and mix the whole with a little 
 milk. It would not be amiss to put to 
 it a very small bit of butter, and to pound 
 the whole in a mortar for a short time. 
 This stuffing may be used with baked 
 pike, or with either roasted or boiled 
 turkey, roasted hare, &c. ; in short, with 
 all such articles as will be mentioned in 
 this work. If the taste of shalot is not 
 objected to, it will be found to add to the 
 flavor of the stuffing. If you do not like 
 to put it into the mortar, take the roll- 
 ing-pin and mix it with it on the table, 
 which is a better method. 
 
 CUEING MEAT, POTTING, 
 AND COLLARING. 
 
 902.--CUEING. 
 
 In salting all meat, care should be taken 
 to remove the kernels, otherwise it will 
 soon become tainted. It should be sprin- 
 kled with a handful of common salt to 
 fetch out the blood, the brine thrown away 
 on the following day, and the meat wiped 
 with a dry cloth ; it is then ready to be 
 cured in any of the undermentioned ways. 
 Too much care cannot be taken in the 
 first salting to rub between every muscle 
 or under every flap of the meat ; as for 
 want of this care it may have an un- 
 pleasant taste, though sufficiently salted. 
 
342 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER 
 
 The brine will serve again, by being 
 boiled and skimmed, which may be re- 
 peated as long as any scum will rise. 
 Hams should be laid with the rind-side 
 downwards : and it is a good plan to heat 
 a quarter peck of common salt in a fry- 
 ing-pan, and lay it at the bottom of the 
 pan. A small quantity of saltpetre is 
 necessary to produce the fine red color 
 either in ham or beef; but much will 
 make the meat hard, and the proportions 
 of sugar and salt should be varied accord- 
 ing to the preference given to highly- 
 salted provisions, or those which are cured 
 milder. 
 
 908. TO COEN BEEF. 
 A Round of Beef of eighteen or twenty 
 pounds* weight. Mix an ounce and a half 
 of sal-prunella, three ounces of brown 
 sugar, half an ounce of black pepper, six 
 ounces of fine salt, a quarter of an ounce 
 of cloves pounded, the same of nutmeg, 
 and half a pound of common salt: take 
 out the bone, and rub the piece over with 
 common salt : let it remain for a day or 
 two, and then rub into it the above in- 
 gredients finely powdered and thoroughly 
 mixed ; let it lie a fortnight, and turn it 
 daily. It should then be hung up in a 
 dry place ; and, if possible, smoked till 
 wanted for use, when it should be either 
 boiled gently, or baked in a deep dish 
 covered with coarse paste. 
 
 This, it may however be observed, is 
 rather a superior mode ; as the common 
 way is merely to use fine salt, with occa- 
 sionally a little saltpetre to give a tinge 
 of redness to the meat, which is seldom 
 smoked, except for very large joints. 
 Many persons, indeed, think the meat 
 best when stewed ; in which case, put no 
 more water in the pot than will barely 
 cover the meat, and keep it gently sim- 
 mering for four, five, or six hours, accord- 
 ing to the size of the joint. 
 
 904.-TO SALT BEEF BED. 
 
 Choose a piece of beef with as little 
 
 xrae as you can (the flank is the best), 
 sprinkle it, and let it drain a day ; then 
 rub it with common salt, a small propor- 
 tion of saltpetre, fine salt, and a little 
 coarse sugar ; you may add a few grains 
 of cochineal, all in fine powder. Rub the 
 pickle every day into the meat for a week, 
 :hen only turn it. 
 
 It will be excellent in eight days. In 
 sixteen, drain it from the pickle ; and let 
 t be smoked at the oven's mouth when 
 heated with wood, or send it to the 
 baker's. A few days will smoke it. It 
 
 extremely good eaten fresh from the 
 pickle, boiled tender with greens or car- 
 rots. If to be grated, then cut a lean 
 bit; boil it till extremely tender, and 
 while hot, put it under a press. When 
 cold, fold it in a sheet of paper, and it 
 will ' keep in a dry place two or three 
 months, ready for serving on bread and 
 butter. 
 
 905. THE DUTCH WAY TO SALT BEEF. 
 
 Take a lean piece of beef; rub it well 
 with treacle or brown sugar, and turn it 
 often. In three days wipe it, an<J salt it 
 with common salt and saltpetre beaten 
 fine ; rub them well in, and turn it every 
 day for a fortnight. Roll it tight in a 
 coarse cloth, and press it under a heavy 
 weight ; hang to dry in wood-smoke ; but 
 turn it upside down every day. Boil it 
 in pump water, and press it ; it will grate 
 or cut into shivers, and makes a good 
 breakfast dish. 
 
 To twelve pounds of beef the proportion 
 of common salt is one pound. 
 
 906. SPICED BEEF. 
 
 Make a brine with half a pound of salt, 
 half an ounce of saltpetre, half a pound 
 of sugar, thirty cloves, as many allspice 
 and black peppercorns, six bay-leaves; 
 crack the spice ; put it on to boil for a 
 few minutes in a pint of water ; when 
 cold, pour it over a piece of beef about 
 ten pounds. Turn it every day for a fort- 
 night 
 
CUEING MEAT. 
 
 343 
 
 When required for use, put the beef 
 into a deep pan with the brine, a little 
 water, and about one pound of suet. Bake 
 it until tender; let it get cold in the 
 brine. 
 
 907. HUNG BEEF, (the Derrynane Eeceipt.) 
 
 Rub the beef well with salt and salt- 
 petre, in the proportion of .two ounces of 
 saltpetre and seven pounds of salt to 
 fifty pounds of beef. Put the beef into 
 a cask or tub, place a board over it, and 
 weights upon that ; leave it so for about 
 a fortnight, then take it out and hang it 
 in the kitchen to dry, which will gene- 
 rally take about three weeks. Some 
 persons leave it for a longer time in the 
 tub, which they merely cover without 
 the weight ; but the above is the better 
 way. 
 
 908. TO CURE TONGUES. 
 
 Neats' tongues cured with the whole 
 root on look much larger, but have not 
 any other advantage, being too hard to 
 cut pleasantly when salted. If the root 
 is to be removed, cut it off near the gul- 
 let, but without taking away the fat that 
 is under the tongue. The root must be 
 soaked in salt and water a night, and ex- 
 tremely well cleaned before it be dressed, 
 when it is very good stewed with gravy ; 
 or it may be salted two days, and used for 
 pea-soup. Having left the fat and a little 
 of the kernel under the tongue, sprinkle 
 it with salt and let it drain until the 
 next day. Then for each tongue mix a 
 large spoonful of common salt, the same 
 quantity of coarse sugar, half as much 
 saltpetre, a teaspoonful of ground pep- 
 per, and two cloves of garlic or shalot 
 chopped very fine ; rub it well in, and do 
 so every day for a week ; then add an- 
 other large spoonful of salt. If rubbed 
 daily, a tongue will be ready in ten days ; 
 but if only turned in the pickle, it will 
 not be too salt in four or five weeks, but 
 
 should not be kept longer. When to be 
 dried, write the date of the day on 
 parchment, and tie it on. Smoke three 
 days, or hang them in a dry place with- 
 out smoking. When to be dressed, boil 
 the tongue extremely tender ; allow five 
 hours, and if done sooner it is easily kept 
 hot. The longer it is kept after smoking, 
 the higher will be the flavor ; but in the 
 estimation of many persons, they are 
 best dressed out of the pickle ; if hard, 
 it may require soaking four or five hours. 
 
 Or : Put the tongue into an earthen 
 pan, rub into it a table-spoonful of salt- 
 petre, a good handful of salt, and the 
 same quantity of coarse brown sugar ; 
 allow the tongue to remain in the pickle 
 for three weeks, and rub it over every 
 day. Then take it out and put it into 
 the meat-screen before tne fire for two or 
 three days, till, the pickle has entirely 
 drained from it. Then sprinkle it over 
 with bran, and hang it up in any part of 
 the kitchen with the root-end upper- 
 most; sew salt tongues up in coarse 
 linen. 
 
 909. TO CUBE SHEEP'S TONGUES 
 
 Let the tongues be well washed and 
 cleaned, and lay them in spring water for 
 half an hour. Take one pound of salt, 
 a gill of molasses, and half an ounce of 
 saltpetre ; rub the tongues well with it, 
 and put them into the pickle : a week 
 or ten days will be sufficient to cure 
 them. 
 
 910. FOE CUEING HAMS. 
 
 Choose the leg of a hog that is fat and 
 well fed, as well as of a certain age ; for 
 if poor, it is not worth curing, and if not 
 one year old it will never acquire the fine 
 flavor of a mellow ham. Sprinkle it 
 with a little salt, and let it drain for a 
 day ; then put to it one pound each of 
 coarse salt and the coarsest sugar, with a 
 
344 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 large handful of common salt and four 
 ounces of saltpetre ; rub it thoroughly 
 with this ; lay the rind downwards, and 
 cover the fleshy parts with the salt, with 
 which baste it frequently, and turn it 
 every second day. Keep it in this for 
 four weeks, then drain it and throw bran 
 over it ; hang it up in a cool place to dry, 
 then sew it up in a coarse linen wrapper 
 rubbed with lime, and do not dress it 
 until full three months old. 
 
 The better way is, however, to smoke 
 it. In country places this is not uncom- 
 monly done by hanging it in a kitchen 
 chimney where wood is burnt, or in any 
 spare chimney where a smothering fire 
 can be kept up, made of wet straw and 
 horse-litter, with sawdust or shavings; 
 but be particular to have them of oak^ 
 for, if of pine, it will give the ham a bad 
 flavor. It will take three weeks' smok- 
 ing. 
 
 Or : Hang the ham, and sprinkle it 
 with salt as above ; then rub it every 
 day with the following, in fine powder : 
 a pound of common salt powdered fine, 
 two ounces of salt-petre, and two ounces 
 of black pepper, mixed with one and 
 a half pints of molasses. 
 
 911. ANOTHER WAY, THAT GIVES A 
 * HIGHER FLAVOR. 
 
 When the weather, will permit, hang 
 the hani three days ; mix one ounce of 
 saltpetre with half a pound of common 
 salt, and also of coarse sugar, and a quart 
 of strong beer; boil them together, and 
 pour them immediately upon the ham ; 
 turn it twice a-day in the pickle for three 
 weeks. One ounce of black pepper, and 
 the same quantity of allspice, in fine 
 powder, added to the above, will give 
 still more flavor. 
 
 ^k. Or .-Sprinkle the ham with salt, af- 
 ter it has hung two or three days ; let it 
 drain ; make a pickle of a quart* of strong 
 beer, half a pound of molasses, one ounce 
 
 of coriander-seeds, two ounces of juni- 
 per-berries, one ounce of pepper, the 
 same quantity of allspice, one ounce of 
 saltpetre, half an ounce of sal-prunella, 
 a handful of common salt, and a head of 
 shalot, all pounded or cut fine. Boil 
 these all together a few minutes, and 
 pour them over the ham : this quantity 
 is for one of ten pounds. 
 
 912. FITZSIMON FAMILY RECEIPT FOR 
 CURING HAMS. 
 
 Mix one ounce of saltpetre, one pound 
 of common salt, and one pound of coarse 
 brown sugar, all together, and rub the 
 ham well. Let it lie for a month in this 
 pickle, turning and basting it every dav ; 
 then hang it in wood-smoke in a dry 
 place, where no heat can come to it, and, 
 if to be kept long, hang it for a month 
 or two in a damp place, and it will eat 
 firm and short. Observe, hams thus 
 made need not be soaked ; put them into 
 cold water, and let them be three or four 
 hours before they boil, skimming the pot 
 well and often until it boils. These 
 hams have been made with a less quan- 
 tity of salt and an additional quantity of 
 saltpetre, and it has been found to an- 
 swer well, the hams being in that case 
 soaked before boiling. 
 
 918. WESTPHALIA HAMS. 
 
 Prepare the hams in the usual manner 
 by rubbing them with common salt and 
 draining them ; take one ounce of salt- 
 petre, half a pound of coarse sugar, and 
 the same quantity of salt ; rub it well 
 into the ham, and in three days pour a 
 pint of vinegar over it. A fine foreign 
 flavor may also be given to hams by 
 pouring old strong beer over them, and 
 burning juniper-wood while they are dry- 
 ing : molasses, juniper-berries, and high- 
 ly-flavored herbs, such as basil, sage, 
 bay- leaves, and thyme, mingled together 
 
CUEING MEAT. 
 
 34:5 
 
 and the hams well rubbed with it. using 
 only a sufficient quantity of salt to as- 
 sist in the cure, will afford an agreeable 
 variety. 
 
 914. MUTTON HAM. 
 
 Cut a hind quarter of mutton in the 
 shape of a ham, and allow it to hang for 
 two or three days. Mix half a pound of 
 coarse salt, two ounces of saltpetre, half a 
 pound of common salt, and half a pound 
 of coarse sugar, all well pounded to- 
 gether, and make them quite hot before 
 the fire. Then rub it well into the meat, 
 turning it in the liquor every day ; after 
 four days add two ounces more of com- 
 mon salt. Let it remain twelve days in 
 the brine, then take it out, dry it, and 
 hang it up in wood-smoke for a week. 
 
 Another pickle for mutton-ham may 
 be made with one ounce of saltpetre to 
 one pound of coarse sugar, and one pound 
 of salt ; the ham to be kept in this 
 pickle for a fortnight, then rolled in saw- 
 dust, and hung in wood-smoke for four- 
 teen days. 
 
 915. GOOSE HAMS 
 
 Are made by splitting the goose down 
 the back, rubbing it with a quarter of 
 an ounce of saltpetre, and then salting it 
 well with common salt and coarse brown 
 sugar ; let it lie in pickle for ten days in 
 summer and fourteen in winter, rub and 
 turn it every day, roll it in sawdust and 
 smoke it. 
 
 In Pomerania, on the shores of the 
 Baltic, where vast numbers are cured, 
 the breasts are prepared separately as 
 hams, and being much dried in smoking, 
 are always eaten without further dress- 
 ing. In the fens of Lincolnshire the 
 geese, when their feathers have -been 
 plucked, are also salted. 
 
 916. BACON. 
 
 The method of curing Malines Bacon, 
 
 so much admired for its fine flavor. Cut 
 off the hams and head of a pig, if a 
 large one ; take out the chine and leave 
 in the sparerib, as they will keep in the 
 gravy and prevent the bacon from rust- 
 ing. Salt it first with common salt, and 
 let it lie for a day on a table that the 
 blood may run from it; then make a 
 brine with a pint of bay-salt, *i quarter 
 of a peck of common salt, about a quar- 
 ter of a pound of juniper-berries, and 
 some bay-leaves, with as much water as 
 will, when the brine is made, cover the 1 
 bacon ; when the salt is dissolved, and 
 when quite cold, if a new-laid egg will 
 swim in it, the brine may be put on the 
 bacon, which after a week must be rub- 
 bed with the following mixture : half 
 a pound of saltpetre, two ounces of sal- 
 prunella, and one pound of coarse sugar ; 
 after remaining four weeks it may be 
 hung up in a chimney where wood is 
 burned ; shavings, with sawdust and a 
 small quantity of turf, may be added to 
 the fire at times. 
 
 917. THE BLACK POOL EECEIPT FOB 
 CUEING BACON. 
 
 For a middling-sized hog take twelve 
 pounds of the best common salt, and one 
 pound of saltpetre pounded very finely ; 
 rub it in well, and cover the me^at about 
 an inch thick, hams, chaps, and all; 
 placing it with the rind downwards. 
 Let it remain for a week ; then take off 
 the salt ; turn the whole with the rind 
 upwards ; tnen lay the salt on again for 
 another week. Then remove the salt, 
 and turn it a second time ; lay on the salt 
 and let it remain four days longer. It 
 will then be properly salted. Wipe it 
 clean ; rub it all over with dry salt ; and 
 hang it where it will have a little air of 
 the fire, until it is dry. Then sew it up 
 in whity-brown paper, and hang it in a 
 dry place where no heat can come to it ; 
 and, if these precautions are taken, it will 
 not get rusty. 
 
346 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 The meat must be salted on a board 
 that is well perforated with holes, to let 
 the brine run from it; and it must be 
 covered up closely with a coarse cloth to 
 keep out the air ; and, while salting, take 
 care to lay the pieces as close as possible 
 one upon the other. 
 
 SU8. WILTSHIEE BACON. 
 
 Sprinkle each flitch with salt ; and let 
 the blood drain off for twenty-four hours. 
 Then mix one pound and a half of coarse 
 sugar, the same quantity of fine salt, six 
 ounces of saltpetre, and four pounds of 
 coarse salt ; rub this well on the bacon, 
 turning and wetting it in every part, 
 daily for a month ; then hang it to dry, 
 and afterwards smoke it ten days. 
 
 919. TO CUBE BACON FOE LARDING AND 
 BEAISING. 
 
 Take the fattest part of the pork, and to 
 every ten pounds use one pound of pound- 
 ed salt ; rub it very well over ; put the 
 pieces one upon another upon boards, and 
 lay boards with a heavy weight upon the 
 top ; leave it in a dry cool place for about 
 a month ; then hang it up to dry without 
 smoking. The hardest is the best for 
 larding ; and bacon cured in this way is 
 preferable for culinary purposes, since the 
 saltpetre usually employed will turn veal 
 or poultry red, when braised with any 
 portion of the lean. 
 
 920. HOG'S CHEEKS. 
 
 Cut out the snout ; remove the brains ; 
 and split the head, taking off the upper 
 bone, to make the chowl a good shape ; 
 rub it well with salt ; next day take away 
 the brine, and salt it again the following 
 day with three quarts of common salt, 
 and a pound and a quarter of brown 
 sugar ; put into a gallon and a half of 
 spring water ; stir it until the whole is 
 dissolved. This quantity will be suffi- 
 cient for three pair of chaps ; be care- 
 ful to turn them in the brine at least 
 
 every other day, and to keep them well 
 covered. Dry them' in wood-ashes. 
 
 921. BEAWN. 
 
 Split and nicely clean a hog's head; 
 take out the brains ; cut off the ears, and 
 rub a good deal of salt into the head ; let 
 it drain twenty-four hours ; then lay up- 
 on it two ounces of saltpetre, and the 
 same of common salt, for three days ; lay 
 the head and salt into a pan, with just 
 water to cover it, for two days more. 
 
 Wash it well, and boil until the bones 
 will come out ; remove them, and chop 
 the meat as quickly as possible in pieces 
 of an inch long ; but first take the skin 
 carefully off the head and the tongue ; 
 the latter also cut in bits. Season with 
 pepper and salt. Put the skin of one side 
 of the head into a small long pan ; press 
 the chopped head and tongue into it, and 
 lay the skin of the other side of the head 
 over, and press it down. When cold, it 
 will turn out. The head may probably 
 be too fat ; in which case, prepare a few 
 bits of lean pork with the head. Boil 
 two ounces of salt, a pint of vinegar, and 
 a quart of the liquor, and, when cold, 
 pour it over the head. The ears are to 
 be boiled longer than the head; cut in 
 thin strips, and divided about it, the hair 
 being nicely removed. Reboil the pickle 
 often. 
 
 922. ANOTHEE MOCK BEAWN. 
 Boil a pair of neat's feet very tender ; 
 take the meat off, and have ready the 
 belly-piece of pork, salted with common 
 salt and saltpetre, for a week. Boil this 
 till nearly dene ; take out the bones, and 
 roll the feet and the pork together. Then 
 roll it very tight with a strong cloth and 
 coarse tape. Boil it till very tender; 
 then hang it up in the cloth till cold; 
 after which keep it in a sousing liquor. 
 
 923. TO KEEP BEAWN, THE CAMBEIDGE 
 WAT. 
 
 To two gallons of water, put one pound 
 
POTTING AND COLLARING. 
 
 347 
 
 of wleat-bran, and one pound of salt ; 
 boil om hour ; when cold, strain it ; and 
 keep the brawn in it. In ten or twelve 
 days fres* pickle will be required. If, 
 by length cf carriage or neglect, the brawn 
 be kept toe long out of pickle, make as 
 above ; and vhen rubbed well with salt, 
 and washed vith some of the pickle, it 
 will be quite i^stored to its former good- 
 ness. 
 
 924. TC PICKLE POEK. 
 
 Take half a lushel of common salt, 
 one pound of coarse salt, half a pound of 
 saltpetre, and six jounds of coarse brown 
 sugar ; malfe hams of the legs. Take the 
 sides of the pork, aid rub them well with 
 common sslt ; lay a thin bed of salt in the 
 tray, and place one of the si'des in it ; 
 sprinkle vith salt to cover it j lay the 
 other sicb on the top, and sprinkle it 
 also. L(t them lie two- or three days, 
 rubbing the salt well in ; then cover the 
 whole wth the other ingredients ; and, as 
 soon as he salt begins to give, rub them 
 well in turn the sides frequently, and 
 let then be covered with brine ; it will 
 be fit fc use in six or eight weeks. 
 
 925. A PICKLE 
 
 That will Jceep for year 8^ for hams, 
 tongues or beef, if boiled and skimmed 
 between each parcel of them. To two 
 gallons rf spring water put two pounds 
 of coan sugar, two pounds of coarse, and 
 two an a half pounds of common salt, 
 and ha a pound of saltpetre, in a deep 
 earthei glazed pan that will hold four 
 gallons and with a cover that will fit 
 close, ieep the beef or hams as long 
 as the; will bear before you put them 
 into th pickle ; and sprinkle them with 
 coarse sugar in a pan. from which they 
 must rain. Rub the hams, &c., well 
 with t3 pickle ; and pack them in close, 
 puttin as much as the pan will hold, 
 so thb the pickle may cover them. 
 The pkle is not to be boiled at first. A 
 
 small ham may lie fourteen days ; a large 
 one three weeks ; a tongue twelve days ; 
 and beef in proportion to its size. They 
 will eat well out of the pickle without 
 drying. When they are to be dried, let 
 each piece be drained over the pan ; and 
 when it will drop no longer, take a clean 
 sponge and dry it thoroughly. Six or 
 eight hours will smoke them ; and there 
 should be only a little sawdust and wet 
 straw burnt to do tin's ; but if put into a 
 baker's chimney, sew them in a coarse 
 cloth, and hang them a week. Add two 
 pounds of common salt, and two pints 
 of water, every time you boil the liquor. 
 
 926. -POTTING AND COLLAEING. 
 
 To pot and collar are only different 
 modes of preserving fish and meat for a 
 longer time than they could be kept fresh ; 
 chiefly, in the instance of potting, by 
 pounding the materials with seasoning, 
 when dressed, and then putting small 
 portions in closely covered jars or pots ; 
 while collaring is done by slicing portions 
 of the meat or fish ; and, when well sea- 
 soned, rolling it in round pieces ; to be 
 eaten cold, as savory dishes, at breakfast 
 and luncheon. 
 
 In potting, take care to wait until the 
 meat is cold ; press the meat firmly into 
 the pots ; but, before putting it there, 
 drain the gravy thoroughly from the 
 meat, or the gravy will turn it sour ; then 
 cover well with clarified butter, and tie 
 over it oil-skin, or oiled paper, to exclude 
 the air. 
 
 927.-TO CLAEIFT BUTTEE. 
 
 Put your boat into a saucepan of cold 
 water, and set it over a slow fire until it 
 melts ; then take it off the fire ; take off 
 the scum, and again warm it gently. 
 After being used, it will still serve for 
 basting, or for meat-pie paste, and is also 
 excellent for fish sauce. 
 
 In Collaring, be careful to roll the 
 meat tightly, and bind it firmly. Let it 
 
348 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 also be thoroughly done ; left in a cool 
 place ; sometimes rubbed with pickle, but 
 always wiped perfectly dry. 
 * 
 
 928.-TO POT SHFLL-FISH. 
 
 Boil lobsters and shrimps in salt and 
 water ; pick the meat out of the tails and 
 claws ; put them into a stewpan, with a 
 little butter, some chopped mushrooms 
 or truffles, and simmer a short time over 
 a gentle fire. When nearly done, beat 
 the yolks of two or three eggs, with a 
 teacupful of cream, and a little chopped 
 parsley ; let all stew together for a few 
 minutes, until rendered as consistent as 
 paste, and set it as above stated. 
 
 Or /When boiled, take them out of 
 their shells, and season them with salt, 
 white pepper, and a very little mace and 
 nutmeg ; but use the spice very sparingly, 
 only just sufficient to preserve the fish 
 for a few days in a fresh state, as they 
 will not keep good much longer. Press 
 them into a pot ; lay a little butter over 
 them; and bake in a slow oven for ten 
 minutes. When cold, cover with clari- 
 fied butter. 
 
 Shrimps, may also be potted whole, by 
 putting them for a few minutes in clari- 
 fied butter, seasoned as above, and gently 
 heated; then put into pots, and cover 
 with more butter, to totally prevent the 
 admission of air. Cover the pots also 
 with oil-skin. 
 
 929. TO POT POULTEY AND GAME. 
 
 . Take as much lean of boiled 
 ham as you may think proper, and half 
 the quantity of fat ; each cut as thin as 
 possible ; beat it very fine in a mortar. 
 with a little clarified butter, pounded 
 mace, pepper, and salt if the ham be 
 not sufficiently impregnated. To this 
 add the white part of the fowl, also 
 pounded, but without seasoning, as it is 
 only intended to qualify the savoriness of 
 the ham. Then either mix the whole 
 
 together, or put a layer of ham and chfcken 
 alternately ; press it hard in the pots ; 
 bake in a cool oven for half an hour; 
 pour over it clarified butter to tfie thick- 
 ness of a crown piece, and paste over it a 
 piece of paper, which may be oiled when 
 the paste is dry. 
 
 Let them be quite fresh/ clean them 
 carefully, and season them /frith salt and 
 pepper; lay them close iya small deep 
 pan ; for, the smaller the surface, and the 
 closer they are packed, /he less butter 
 will be wanted. Cover/them with but- 
 ter; then with very /hick paper; tie 
 down and bake them./ When cold, put 
 them dry into pots thai will hold two or 
 three in each; and pour butter over 
 them, using that wh/ch was; baked as 
 part. Observe that the batter ^hould be 
 pretty thick over them if they kre to be 
 kept. If pigeons were boned ind then 
 put in an oval form into the jot, they 
 would lie closer and require less 
 They may be stuffed with a fir 
 meat made with veal, bacon. & 
 high flavor is approved of, ad 
 
 allspice, and 
 baking. 
 
 a little cayenne 
 
 980. PAETKIDGES AND PHEAS 
 
 Clean them nicely, and seas 
 mace, allspice, white pepper and 
 fine powder, or seasoning spice 
 every part well; then lay the 
 downwards in a pan, and pack t 
 as close as you possibly can. PL 
 
 IHk 
 
 with 
 alt, in 
 Rub 
 reasts 
 birds 
 a good 
 
 deal of butter on them ; then c er the 
 pan with a coarse flour paste, and paper 
 over ; tie it close, and bake. Whi cold, 
 put the birds into pots, and cov them 
 with butter. 
 
 Or: When baked and grow cold, 
 cut them into proper pieces for 1. ping 5 
 pack them close into a large potti;-pan, 
 and (if possible) leave no spaces tosceive 
 the butter. Cover them with utter, 
 and one-third part less will be anted 
 than when the birds are done wh 
 
 butter. 
 
 force- 
 If a 
 
 mace, 
 before 
 
POTTING. 
 
 349 
 
 981. HARE. 
 
 Hang up a hare four or five days, with 
 the skin on ; then case it, and cut it up as 
 for eating ; put it in a pot, and season it 
 with mace, pepper, and salt ; put one 
 pound of butter upon it ; tie it down, and 
 bake in a bread oven till tender. When 
 it comes out, pick it from the bones, and 
 pound to a smooth consistence with the 
 fat from the butter, and pot it in the 
 usual way. 
 
 932. BABBITS. 
 
 Cut up two or three young, but full- 
 grown ones ; and take the leg-bones off 
 at the thigh ; pack them as closely as 
 possible in a small pan, after seasoning 
 them with pepper, mace, cayenne, salt, 
 allspice, all in very fine powder. Make 
 the top as smooth as you can. Keep out 
 the liver and the carcases ; but take off 
 the meat above the neck. Put a good 
 deal of butter ; and bake the whole gently. 
 Keep it two days in the pan ; then shift 
 it into small pots, adding butter. The 
 livers also should be added, as they eat 
 well. 
 
 933. BEEF POTTED. 
 
 Take three pounds of lean beef, salt it 
 two or three days with half a pound of 
 salt and half an ounce of saltpetre ; di- 
 vide it into pieces of a pound each, and 
 put it into an earthen pan just sufficient 
 to contain it ; pour in half a pint of 
 water, cover it close with paste, and set 
 in a slow oven for four hours. When 
 taken from the oven pour the gravy from 
 it into a basin, shred the meat fine, 
 moisten it with the gravy poured from 
 the meat, and pound it thoroughly in a 
 marble mortar with fresh butter until it 
 becomes a fine paste ; season it with 
 black pepper and allspice, or cloves 
 pounded, or nutmeg grated; put it in 
 pots, press it down as close as possible, 
 put a weight on it and let it stand all 
 
 night ; next day, when quite cold, cover 
 it a quarter of an inch thick with clari- 
 fied butter, anelf tie it over with paper. 
 
 984 BEEF POTTED LIKE VENISON. 
 
 Take a whole thin flank of beef, pull 
 off the inward skin, and cut it across and 
 across, particularly in the thickest parts, 
 lay it for six hours in hard water, take 
 as much saltpetre as the quantity of an 
 egg, mix with about two pounds of white 
 salt, and rub it well into the meat ; then 
 sprinkle upon it nearly a pint of wine 
 vinegar, and then let it lie for three or 
 four days, turning and rubbing it once a 
 day, then rinse it out of the brine with 
 a pint of claret, and season it with cloves, 
 mace, and nutmeg, white and Jamaica 
 pepper, of each a quarter of an ounce ; 
 bake all together with savory, thyme, 
 sage, and the rind of a lemon shred to- 
 gether, and then well rubbed into the 
 cuts and slashes on the inside ; then bind 
 it up with tape, and lay it in a long pot ; 
 put in the claret, and lay the skins at 
 the top to save it, then bake it. 
 
 935. BIEDS POTTED HOW TO PEESEEVE 
 WHEN THEY BEGIN TO GEOW OLD. 
 
 When birds are sent a long way they 
 often smell so bad that they can hardly 
 be borne, from the rankness of the but- 
 ter ; by doing them in* the following way 
 they will be as if only fresh done. Set 
 a large saucepan of clean water on the 
 fire, when it boils take off the butter at 
 the top, then take the fowls one by one, 
 throw them in the saucepan of water 
 half a minute, take one out and dry it 
 well inside and out, do so till they are 
 all done, scald your pot clean ; when the 
 birds are quite cold season with mace, 
 pepper, and salt, according to taste: 
 put them down close in a pot, put clari- 
 fied butter over them. 
 
 % 
 
 986. CHICKEN AND HAM POTTED. 
 
 Season some pieces of chicken with 
 
350 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 mace, cloves, and pepper, and bake it for 
 about two hours in a close covered pan, 
 with some water, then pound them quite 
 small, moistening with either melted 
 butter, or the liquor that they are baked 
 in, pound some, and put this with the 
 chicken in alternate layers, in pots or 
 pans ; press them down tight, and cover 
 them with butter. 
 
 987. GAME OF ALL KINDS. 
 
 Any dressed game you may have in 
 your larder. Pound well in your mor- 
 tar all the tender meat free from skin 
 and bone ; add to it some pounded mace, 
 allspice, cayenne pepper, salt, and white 
 pepper, a few grains of powdered sugar, 
 an equal quantity, if you have it, of 
 good fat ham. When well pounded rub 
 it through a wire sieve ; if you have no 
 ham use an equal quantity of butter in- 
 stead ; mix it well up again, and place it 
 tightly in earthen shapes; coyer each 
 jar over with clarified butter or lard ; 
 turn out with warm water ; when requir- 
 ed either for breakfast or luncheon, or a 
 second course, dish in or on aspic, gar- 
 nish with fresh parsley. 
 
 938. PIGEONS POTTED. 
 
 Be careful that they are fresh, clean 
 and season them with salt and pepper, 
 lay them close together in a small deep 
 pan, for the closer they are put the less 
 butter they will take. Cover them with 
 butter, tie them over with a thin paper, 
 and bake them ; when cold put them to 
 dry in pots that will hold two or three 
 in each, and pour butter over them, using 
 that which was baked as some; mind, 
 the butter should be thick over them ; 
 if they are done for keeping, the pigeons 
 would lie closer and want less butter, if 
 tfcey are boned and put into the pot in 
 an oval form. They may be stuffed with 
 forcemeat, made with veal and bacon, 
 &c., and they will eat very well. If a. 
 
 high seasoning is preferred, add more all- 
 spice, and a little cayenne pepper, before 
 baking. 
 
 Woodcocks are done the same way. 
 
 939. SMELTS POTTED. 
 
 Draw out the inside, season with salt, 
 mace pounded, and pepper ; lay them in 
 a pan with butter on the top, bake them ; 
 when^ nearly cold take them out. lay 
 them on a cloth, put them into pots, clear 
 off the butter from the gravy, clarify, 
 and pour it over them. 
 
 940. VEAL POTTED. 
 
 Take one pound of lean veal, put it 
 into a stewpan, with two ounces of fresh 
 butter, the juice of a lemon, pepper, salt, 
 sifted mace, a bay-leaf, allspice, cloves, 
 nutmeg, cinnamon, and mushroom pow- 
 der, a small quantity of each ; a little 
 thyme, savory, and a couple of shalots, 
 chopped fine; stew them ten minutes, 
 then pound them, add a pound of the 
 mellow part of a boiled tongue beaten 
 to a paste, half a pound of cold fresh 
 butter ; mix all well together, with two 
 eggs, well beaten, then press the mixture 
 down tight in small pots, cover them 
 with paper, and put them into a moderate 
 oven, bake twenty minutes, then pour 
 over them clarified butter. 
 
 941 VENISON POTTED. 
 
 Put the venison into a pan, and ponr 
 red wine over it, and cover it with a 
 pound of butter ; put a paste over the 
 pan, set it in the oven to bake. When 
 done take the meat out of the gravy, 
 beat it well with the butter that has 
 risen to the top, add more if necessary, 
 season with pepper, salt, and mace pound- 
 ed ; put into pots, set them in the oven 
 for a few minutes, take them out ; when 
 cold cover with clarified butter. 
 
 942. NEAT'S TONGUE. 
 
 Kub it with one ounce of saltpetre and 
 
COLLARING. 
 
 351 
 
 four ounces of brown sugar ; let it lie 
 two days, then boil it till it is quite ten- 
 der ; take off the skin and all the fibrous 
 part of the root, cut it in thin pieces, 
 and pound it with one pound of clarified 
 butter, and seasoning to your taste. 
 
 943. TO POT BEEF IN IMITATION OF 
 VENISON. 
 
 Put eight or ten pounds of lean beef 
 into a deep dish ; pour over it a pint of 
 red wine, and let it lie in it for two days, 
 seasoning it well with mace, pepper, salt, 
 and a clove of garlic; then put it into a 
 closely covered pot along with the wine, 
 'and another glassful if it be not suffi- 
 cient, and bake it for three hours in a 
 quick oven ; when cold, pound it to a 
 paste, and pot it as above. 
 
 Venison may itself be potted in the 
 same manner ; but if it be stale, rub it 
 previously with pyroligneous acid. 
 
 944 HAM CAKE. 
 
 Take the remains of a ham that may 
 be getting dry, pound it in a mortar very 
 finely, with all the fat ; season it with 
 pepper and mixed spice ; add to it clari- 
 fied butter sufficient to make it moist ; 
 put it into a mould, and place it in an 
 oven for about half an hour ; it should 
 be prepared the da^ before it is wanted : 
 put the mould for a few minutes in warm 
 water in order that it may turn out pro- 
 perly. This may be made with equal 
 quantities of cold beef pounded separate- 
 ly, and placed in layers in the mould, or 
 put together in lumps to look like mar- 
 ble. Tongue may also be substituted 
 for the ham, but it must be mixed with 
 a larger quantity of butter in the pound- 
 ing. If not wanted at the time, it may 
 be potted with veal, and covered with 
 clarified butter. It will keep well in 
 winter if properly seasoned. 
 
 945.-TO POT MUSHEOOMS. 
 
 Choose large buttons, or those in 
 
 which the inside is not yet the least 
 brown ; peel and wipe out the fur of the 
 larger ones ; and to every two quarts put 
 half a drachm of pounded mace, two 
 drachms of white pepper, an$ six or 
 eight cloves in powder: set them over 
 the fire, shake, and let the liquor dry up 
 into them. Then put to them two 
 ounces of butter, and stew them in it 
 till they are fit for eating ; pour the but- 
 ter from them, and let them become cold. 
 Pack them close into a pot, making the 
 surface as even as possible ; add some 
 butter lukewarm, and then lay a bit of 
 white paper over them, and pour clari- 
 fied suet upon it to exclude the air. 
 
 The collaring of Meat and Fish is an 
 excellent method of preparing it to be 
 eaten cold, having the advantage of keep- 
 ing for a long time, and being at all times 
 ready for breakfast or luncheon. 
 
 946.-COLLAEED EEL. 
 
 Out off the head, then split and take 
 out the bone, but do not skin the fish ; 
 season them with mixed spices, some 
 parsley and sweet marjoram shred very 
 fine, and a few chopped sage leaves; 
 sprinkle a little dry isinglass over them ; 
 roll them tightly up in a cloth, bind it 
 well with strong tape. Boil them in 
 good gravy with a little vinegar, accord- 
 ing to the quantity of eels collared, a 
 few pepper-corns, a sprig of sweet mar- 
 joram, two or three onions, four bay- 
 leaves, a blade or two of mace, and a 
 dozen allspice. Boil them until tender ; 
 take them up and tie them without tak- 
 ing out of the cloth, 'let them stand until 
 cold, then glaze them. They may be 
 sent whole to table, or cut in slices, and 
 garnished with jelly and barberries. 
 
 As a standing dish, and only eaten 
 cold as a relish, it ought always to be 
 highly seasoned. 
 
 947. TO " CAYEACH " FISH. 
 
 Bone the tail of a cod, and cut it into 
 
352 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 slices, season them with white pepper 
 and salt, then fry them, and when cold 
 put them into a pickle made of vinegar 
 boiled with peppercorns, a few cloves, 
 mace, and bay-leaves ; add when cold a 
 teacupful of sweet oil ; lay the fish in a 
 jar with slices of onion between each, 
 and cover the whole with vinegar. Sal- 
 mon may be pickled in the same man- 
 ner. When served up at table put a suf- 
 ficient number of pieces in the centre of 
 the dish, and raise round it a wall of 
 salad. 
 
 94&-TO COLLAR BEEP. 
 
 Make a pickle with six ounces of brown 
 sugar, four ounces of common salt, and 
 one ounce of saltpetre. Then take a 
 flank of beef, and leave it in the pickle 
 for ten days or a fortnight, turning it 
 every day. When taken out, remove the 
 bone and gristle, but leave on the outer 
 skin; lay it upon the table, with the 
 skin downwards, and beat the inside 
 well with a rolling-pin or wooden mal- 
 let until quite tender ; that done, score 
 the flesh in rows, down and across, 
 about the breadth of two fingers ; but 
 in doing so take care not to cut the out- 
 side skin. Then fill the scores alter- 
 nately with slices of the fat of bacon 
 and corned pork, and sweet herbs of all 
 sorts, chopped, and seasoned with spice, 
 till you have filled them all ; after which, 
 roll the flank up very tightly, and bind 
 it round with coarse broad tape, wrap it 
 in a cloth, and boil it gently, but steadily, 
 for four or five hours, according to -the 
 size of the joint. When quite cold, take 
 it out of the cloth, unbind the tape, and 
 fasten the roll with small skewers. If 
 you wish to improve its appearance, you 
 may also glaze it, or rub it with yolk of 
 egg, and brown it with a salamander. 
 
 Another mode is, to take either the 
 flank or "brisket^ and prepare it, as above, 
 for boilir.g ; but stew it with a very little 
 
 water, and, when done, cover the meat 
 with a coating of chopped parsley, thyme, 
 chives, or shalot, seasoned with a little 
 cayenne ; then put it under a board, and 
 lay weights upon it for an hour or two, 
 to press it close tpgether ; but before it 
 becomes quite cold, remove the weights, 
 and roll the piece up in the manner al- 
 ready directed. 
 
 949. AN ECONOMICAL WAY. 
 
 Take the best part of a shin of leef, 
 of which soup has been made (for it 
 mhst be stewed until very tender), and 
 an ox-tail, also well stewed ; cut them 
 into small pieces, season them well, add 
 a glass of wine and a glass of ketchup, 
 and put it into a stewpan covered with 
 a part of the liquor in which the ox-tail 
 has been boiled ; stew it for about twenty 
 minutes, and then put it into a mould. 
 It must' be very cold before it is turned 
 out. This is a good way of employing 
 the beef and heel when soup or jelly is 
 made ; a few chopped sweet herbs may 
 be added, and hard eggs cut into slices, 
 or pickles, such as sliced cucumbers, in- 
 termingled. The flavor may be varied 
 in many ways. 
 
 950. TO COLLAR CALF'S HEAD. 
 
 Scald the skin of a fine head, clean it 
 nicely, and take out the brains. Boil it 
 tender enough to remove the bones ; then 
 have ready a ,good quantity of chopped 
 parsley, mace, ground nutmeg, salt and 
 white pepper, mixed well : season it high 
 with these ; lay the parsley in a thick 
 layer, then a quantity of thick slices of 
 fine ham. or a beautifully colored tongue 
 skinned, and then the yolks of six nice 
 eggs stuck here and there about. Koll 
 the head quite close, and tie it up as 
 tight as you can. Boil it till the tape 
 slackens, and then lay a weight upon it 
 (without removing the bandage) till 
 quite cold. Keep it in a pickle of the 
 liquor, vinegar, and salt. 
 
COLLARING. 
 
 353 
 
 A cloth must be put under the tape, 
 as for other collars. 
 
 Ox-cheek may be collared in the same 
 way. 
 
 951. BEEAST OF VEAL. , 
 
 Bone it, take off the thick skin and 
 gristle, and beat the meat with a rolling- 
 pin. Saason it with herbs chopped very 
 fine, mixed with salt, pepper, and mace. 
 Lay some thick slices of fine ham, 
 or roll into it two or three calves' 
 tongues boiled first an hour or two, and 
 skinned. Bind it up tight in a cloth,' 
 and tape it. Set it over a slow fire to 
 simmer in a small quantity of water, till 
 it is quite tender : this will take some 
 hours. Lay it on the dresser, with a 
 board and weight on it, till quite cold. 
 
 Pigs' and calves' feet boiled, and taken 
 from the bones, may be put in or round 
 it. The different colors laid in layers 
 look well when cut ; and you may put 
 in yolks of eggs boiled, beet-root, grated 
 ham, and chopped parsley, in different 
 parts. 
 
 When it is cold, take off the tape, and 
 pour over it the liquor, which must be 
 boiled up twice a-week, or it will not 
 keep. 
 
 952. BREAST OP MUTTON, 
 
 Collared in this way, will also be 
 found very nice. Bone the meat, and 
 rub it over with yolk of egg, over which 
 grate some lemon-peel" and nutmeg, with 
 a little pepper and salt; then mince a 
 large spoonful of capers with a couple of 
 anchovies, shred a handful of parsley 
 and a few sweet herbs, mixed with crumb 
 of a French roll ; strew it over the mut- 
 ton, and roll it up tight ; boil it gently 
 for two hours, and, when taken up, put 
 it in the same kind of pickle as that of 
 the calf's head. 
 
 953. TO COLLAR A PIG. 
 
 Take a fine fat pig of a month or five 
 
 weeks old, prepared for the table ; cut off 
 the head and split the pig down the back, 
 and bone it ; chop a handful of sage very 
 small, mix it with two nutmegs and three 
 or four blades of mace beaten fine ; add 
 to it a large handful of salt, and season 
 the pig all over ; roll it hard, tie it with 
 tape, sew it in a clean linen cloth, and 
 boil it in water with a little oatmeal and 
 a good seasoning of salt ; boil till very 
 tender, which will take several hours. 
 Keep it in the cloth in which it was 
 boiled until quite cold. Then take the 
 cloth from the pig, and let it lie for eight 
 days in a marinade. Eat it with mus- 
 tard, sugar, and vinegar. 
 
 954. TO COLLAR PIG'S ^EAD. 
 
 Scour the head and ears nicely ; take 
 off the hair and snout, and take out the 
 eyes and the brains ; lay it in water one 
 night : then drain, salt it extremely well 
 with common salt and saltpetre, and let 
 it lie five days. Boil it enough to take 
 out the bones ; then lay it on a dresser, 
 turning the thick end of one side of the 
 head towards the thin end of the other, 
 to make the roll of equal size ; sprinkle 
 it well with salt and white pepper, and 
 roll it with the ears ; and, if you ap- 
 prove, put the pig's feet round the out- 
 side when boned, or the thin parts of 
 two cow-heels. Put it into a cloth, bind 
 with a broad tape, and boil it till quite 
 tender ; then put a good weight upon it, 
 and do not take off the covering till 
 cold. 
 
 If you choose it to be more like brawn, 
 salt it longer, let the proportion of salt- 
 petre be greater, and put in also some 
 pieces of lean pork ; and then cover it 
 with cow-heel to look like the horn. 
 
 This may be kept either in or out of 
 pickle of salt and water boiled, with 
 vinegar ; and is a very convenient thing 
 to have in the house. 
 
 If likely to spoil, slice and fry it either 
 with or without butter. 
 
354: 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 955. A MAEINADE FOE COLLAEED 
 MEATS. 
 
 Make thin water-gruel of oatmeal ; sea- 
 son it well with salt ; add half a pint of 
 white wine and half a spoonful of white 
 pepper ; boil it all together for half an 
 hour ; allow it to become cold before the 
 collar is put into it. 
 
 956.-TO SALT OE COEN A BOUND OP 
 BEEF. 
 
 Rub into it a pound and a half of salt, 
 dried before the fire ; then put it into a 
 salting-pan, set it in a cool place, and the 
 brine that melts should be poured on the 
 meat every day. It may remain in salt 
 from three to ten days. 
 
 957.-BEEF PICKLE. 
 
 Five quarts white salt, one of coarse 
 salt, one pound brown sugar, fourteen 
 quarts soft water ; keep it simmering till 
 it comes to a boil ; then add four ounces 
 saltpetre, and give it a boil. Pack your 
 beef in a close vessel, and when the pickle 
 is cold, pour it over it. 
 
 958.-TO PICKLE MEAT. 
 
 To four gallons water put six pounds 
 salt ; boil and skim well, and let stand 
 till cold ; then put it into the vessel for 
 your meat ; boil the pickle over in two 
 months, adding one pound salt, and skim 
 well ; keep a weight on the meat to keep 
 it under the pickle ; if any part should 
 be bloody, sprinkle salt on it, and let it 
 stand all night ; then scrape and wipe it 
 before it goes into the pickle. 
 
 r 
 959. VEAL POTTED. 
 
 Pound the remains of a cold fillet with 
 mace, peppercorns, two or three cloves, 
 and a little salt, and press it well down 
 into pots, then cover with clarified but- 
 ter. Alternate layers of pounded ham 
 and veal, or both mixed, form a fine com- 
 pound for the limcheon or breakfast- 
 table. 
 
 960. HEEEINGS, TO PICKLE. 
 
 Let the fish be well cleaned and gutted 
 but not opened; take salt, pepper, mace, 
 nutmeg, pound and mix these spices well, 
 then rub a pan with an onion, strew 
 some of the spices over the bottom, and 
 put as many fish as will lie flat on the 
 bottom, then put a la} r er of sliced onions, 
 and then fish, and so on alternately till 
 the pan is filled ; strew the pounded spice 
 between each layer, pour over the best 
 vinegar so as to cover the whole, tie a 
 brown paper over the pan, and bake till 
 the bones are soft. 
 
 Sprats and mackerel are likewise done 
 in this way. 
 
 The heads and tails must be cut off. 
 
 961.-SOYEE'S SIMPLIFIED WAY OF MAKING 
 THE SAVOKY JELLY CALLED ASPIC. 
 
 Put a galantine in a stewpan with two 
 onions, a carrot, half a head of celery, two 
 cloves, a blade of mace, a good bunch of 
 parsley, a little thyme, and bay-leaves, a 
 knuckle of veal, the bones of a turkey, two 
 calf's feet, two ounces of salt : add suffi- 
 cient water to cover the whole ; and set 
 the stewpan upon the fire, until upon the 
 point of boiling ; then draw it to the cor- 
 ner; skim, and let simmer for three 
 hours ; then take it from the fire, leaving 
 it in the stock until nearly cold; then 
 take it out ; removevthe string from the 
 napkin, and roll the galantine up tighter, 
 tying the napkin again at each end only ; 
 then place it upon a dish ; the breast part 
 upwards; set another dish upon it, on 
 which place a fourteen pounds' weight, 
 which will press and cause it to cut firm ; 
 when quite cold, it is ready to serve; 
 having removed the napkin, and the 
 string with which it was sewed ; the 
 stock, however, should be clarified as di- 
 rected in the next receipt, to make a 
 savory jelly, which, when cold and firm, 
 is cut in croutons and chopped; with 
 some also the galantine should be taste- 
 fully garnished. 
 
MEAT JELLY. 
 
 355 
 
 Although at first I had some difficulty 
 with this receipt, I can now see the vari- 
 ety to which it leads, as the same process 
 answers for fowls, green geese, ducklings, 
 pheasants, grouse, partridges, &c., using 
 game with the veal or pork for the inte- 
 rior, and stewing them according to their 
 size ; the bones of game being stewed with 
 the stock, will give the flavor to the 
 savory jelly. 
 
 962.-TO CLAEIFT MEAT JELLY. 
 
 Having passed the stock (made as in 
 irhe last) through the sieve into a ba- 
 sin, leave it until quite cold ; then take 
 off all the fat very carefully ; ascertain if 
 sufficiently, or too stiff, by putting a 
 small piece upon ice ; savory jelly requires 
 to be rather stiffer than sweet; if too 
 stiff, add a little more broth ; if the con- 
 trary, the .stock must be reduced upon 
 the fire until of the proper consistency. 
 When the stock is boiling, ajid you are 
 perfectly assured of its strength, have the 
 white of four eggs with their shells in a 
 basin, with half a pint of water, two 
 spoonfuls of tarragon or common vinegar, 
 and a glass of sherry ; whisk all together ; 
 then whisk the stock quickly a few 
 seconds, and pour in the other ingredients 
 while whisking ; continue whisking a few 
 minutes until again upon the point, but 
 not boiling ; then take it from the fire, and 
 taste if palatable ; place a cover upon the 
 stewpan, which stand a little distance from 
 the fire, putting a few red-hot cinders 
 upon the lid for five minutes ; tie a nap- 
 kin by the four corners upon a jelly-stand, 
 through which pass the jelly, having a 
 basin beneath to catch' it; pour the first 
 that runs through again into the napkin 
 until it runs quite clear ; when all through, 
 pour it in a plain mould or saute-pan, 
 which place upon ice until the jelly is 
 quite firm ; then dip the bottom of the 
 mould in hot water ; turn the jelly out up- 
 on a cloth, and cut it into whatever shapes 
 
 you please, to garnish and ornament any 
 cold savory dish ; the jelly when warm, 
 might be divided, one part kept white, 
 and the other colored with a little brown 
 gravy or coloring, thus enabling you to 
 variegate in garnishing. 
 
 Should the jelly be required to orna- 
 ment tongues, hams, pies, salads, or any 
 article, when no galantine is made ; then 
 to make the stock, cut the veal into 
 small pieces, and split the calf s foot in 
 two ; put a quarter of a pound of butter 
 in a convenient-sized stewpan, with the 
 veal, foot, a small piece of lean ham, and 
 the other ingredients as directed for 
 galantine ; pour in half a pint of water ; 
 put on the lid, and stand it upon the fire 
 until the bottom ot the stewpan is covered 
 with a white glaze ; then add a gallon of 
 water ; let simmer three hours, keeping 
 it well skimmed; pass and clarify as 
 above. 
 
 The knuckle of veal and foot may be 
 served hot with a little parsley and but- 
 ter, for a dinner previous to your party, 
 with a little fried bacon separately ; but 
 for my own part I prefer them plain as 
 they leave the stewpan. 
 
 963.-SOYEK'S COLD HAM. 
 
 Procure a very nice but small ham of 
 about nine pounds in weight, which soak 
 about ten hours in cold water, and sim- 
 mer three hours in plenty of water ; when 
 done, take out and let remain until cold ; 
 then cut off the skin as thinly as possible, 
 but without leaving the marks of it ; let a 
 piece remain upon the knuckle about two 
 inches and a half in breadth, which either 
 festoon or vandyke ; carve the fat neatly 
 to form a shell, if you can, and glaze it 
 over lightly ; serve with a paper frill upon 
 the knuckle, and garnish with savory 
 jelly, or, if plain, with a few bunches of 
 fresh green parsley. , A handful of fresh 
 hay put in the water when boiling, is an 
 improvement. 
 
356 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 POULTRY. 
 
 Always have good and fat poultry 
 where possible ; in the country you may 
 command it. About three weeks before 
 you want to use them, six or twelve 
 fowls, according, to your consumption, 
 should be put into the coop, and as you 
 kill one or more replace them to keep up 
 the stock ; for the first week feed them 
 alternate days with boiled rice and soak- 
 ed bread and milk : the remainder of the 
 time mix Indian meal with the skim- 
 mings of your stockpot and a spoonful 
 of moist sugar. The windows of your 
 poultry house must be darkened. 
 
 Fowls should be carefully drawn, so 
 that the gall bladder is uninjured, and 
 this should only be done through the 
 vent. 
 
 Roast with a brisk and clear fire. A 
 capon will take five-and-thirty minutes ; 
 smaller fowls a less time in proportion. 
 A turkey of fourteen .pounds will take 
 two hours ; the time will increase or de- 
 crease with the weight. The same rule 
 applies to geese : a large one will take 
 an hour and a half; chickens take half 
 an hour, pigeons ten minutes less. It 
 must be understood that the adherence 
 to the time will depend on the state of 
 the fire, &c.; a slow fire will make a 
 longer time necessary, and at the same 
 time spoil the poultry. 
 
 The French adopt the following 
 method to make old poultry eat tender : 
 Let the bird soak in cold water for 
 twenty-four hours, with a handful or two 
 of wood-ashes; pick off the feathers, 
 and let it hang for another twenty-four 
 hours ; truss it, and let it boil for a quar- 
 ter of an hour in a little veal-broth; 
 take it out, lard, and roast it ; when 
 nearly done, baste it with very hot but- 
 ter. By observing these directions, you 
 will impart to an old bird all the delicate 
 flavor of a young chicken. 
 
 964. TO BONE BIEDS. 
 
 Begin to bone any birds by first taking 
 out the breast bone, when you will have 
 sufficient space to remove the back with 
 a sharp knife, and then the leg bones ; 
 the skin must not be broken, but the 
 meat of the legs must be pushed in- 
 wards. 
 
 965. TURKEY WITH SAUSAGE MEAT. 
 
 At the messes of European regiments 
 in India, it is no uncommon thing to bone 
 a turkey and a fowl, and put one inside 
 the other, filling the interstices with sau- 
 sage-meat, a small pig being killed for 
 the purpose. A turkey thus prepared 
 will take a long time roasting, and must 
 be placed at a great distance from the 
 fire at first. When carved the slices 
 should be cut quite through ; and epi- 
 cures aver that it is One of the finest 
 dishes that come to table. 
 
 966 TUEKET EOAST. 
 It is stuffed with either sausage meat 
 or fillet of veal stuffing, or crumbs of 
 bread and veal. While roasting, a piece 
 of paper should be placed over the part 
 stuffed, as being bulky it will catch the 
 fire and become scorched ; but keep the 
 heat well to the breast, in order that it 
 may be as well done as the rest of the 
 bird. Baste well, and froth it up. Serve 
 with gravy in the dish, and bread sauce 
 in a tureen. To the sausage meat, if 
 used, add a few bread-crumbs and a 
 beaten egg. Turkey is sometimes stuffed 
 with truffles ; they are prepared thus : 
 they must be peeled, and chopped, and 
 pounded in a mortar, in quantities of a 
 pound and a half will be found sufficient : 
 rasp the same weight of fat of bacon, and 
 mix it with the truffles. Stuff the tur- 
 key with it ; this stuffing is usually 
 placed in the turkey two days previous 
 to cooking : it is supposed to impart a 
 flavor to the flesh of the fowl. Cut thin 
 
TURKEY. 
 
 357 
 
 slices of fat bacon and place over the breast 
 of the turkey. Secure it with half a sheet 
 of clean white paper, and roast. Chestnuts 
 dressed in the same fashion are found an 
 excellent substitute for truffles. Two 
 hours will roast it. If you wish to make 
 plain stuffing, pound a cracker, or crumble 
 some bread very fine, chop some raw salt 
 pork very fine, or use butter ; sift some 
 sage, (and summer-savory, or sweet mar- 
 ioram. if you have them in the house, 
 and fancy them), and mould them all to- 
 gether, season with a little pepper. An 
 egg worked in makes the stuffing cut 
 better. 
 
 ^967. TUEKEY BOILED. 
 
 A hen bird is considered the best. It 
 may be stuffed with truffles, chestnuts, 
 or sausage meat. Boil it in a clean 
 flourefl cloth ; throw some salt into the 
 water in which it is boiled. Cover close, 
 and simmer for two hours ; remove the 
 scum frequently. White sauce, or pars- 
 ley and butter ; the latter is now scarcely 
 ever brought to table. 
 
 968. BOILED TURKEY. 
 
 Fill the body with oysters, and let it 
 boil by steam without any water. When 
 sufficiently done, take it up, strain the 
 gravy that will.be found in the pan, and 
 which, when cold, will be a fine jelly; 
 thicken it with a little flour and butter, 
 add the liquor of the oysters intended 
 for sauce, also stewed, and warm the 
 oysters up in it ; whiteji it with a little 
 boiled cream, and pour it over the tur- 
 key. 
 
 969. TURKEY WITH SAUSAGE MEAT AND 
 TONGUE. 
 
 Bone the turkey, then fill the inside 
 with sausage meat, with or without 
 tongue : if with tongue the tongue should 
 be boiled the day before ; cut off the root 
 and tip to the length of the turkey ; if 
 you have a fowl to spare, wrap the 
 23 
 
 tongue in this after it is boned, and place 
 it in the middle of the turkey surround 
 ed with sausage meat ; introduce truffles 
 if you like ; if roasted, a slow fire, and 
 it will take a long time to roast through ; 
 if for boiling, cover it with fat bacon and 
 slices of lemon tied in a cloth, pour 
 whatever sauce you propose over the 
 turkey. 
 
 9TO.-TURKEY HASHED. 
 
 Cut up the remains of a roasted tur- 
 key, put it into a stewpan with half a gill 
 of sherry wine, shalots, truffles, mush- 
 rooms, chopped parsley, salt, pepper, two 
 spoonfuls of cullis, and a little stock ; 
 boil half an hour, and reduce to a thick 
 sauce. When ready add a pound of an- 
 chovies, and a squeeze of lemon. Skim 
 the sauce free from fat, and serve alto- 
 gether. 
 
 971. FOECED TURKEY OE FOWL. 
 
 Take all the bones from the turkey, fill 
 it in again with either good sausage meat 
 or veal forcemeat, with or without truf- 
 fles as may be required, braise it in a 
 cloth keeping it a good shape; when 
 dope glaze the breast a good color ; use 
 silver skewers to ornament with, and 
 any of the sauces named or a fricandeau 
 sauce under it. 
 
 French Cooks' Knife. 
 
 972. TUKKEY POULT 
 
 Should be roasted without stuffing; it 
 will be done with a clear fire in twenty 
 minutes. Serve with bread or gravy 
 
 973. TUEKEY WITH FLAT SAUSAGE CAKE. 
 
 Roast as before; fry thirty oval flat 
 sausages, the same quantity of the same 
 sized pieces of bacon, a quarter of an 
 
358 
 
 THE PKACTKJAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 inch thick; make a border of mashed 
 potatoes about the size of a finger, one 
 inch inside the edge of the dish, dress 
 your sausages and bacon on it as a 
 crown alternately, put your turkey in 
 the middle, and gravy over, or glaze, if 
 at hand. Plain boiled tongue may, of 
 course, be served with the turkey, or 
 separate on a dish of greens. If any re- 
 mains of tongue from a previous day, it 
 may be served instead of the sausages, 
 cut the same shape as sausages, and 
 warmed in a pan ; if so, put a nice green 
 sprout between each piece. Bread sauce 
 is generally served with this dish. 
 
 974. SOYER'S BOILED BRAISED TURKEY. 
 
 Truss it thus : cut the neck, leaving 
 
 the skin on ; cut the legs off; then run 
 
 the middle finger into the inside, raise 
 
 the skin of the legs, and put them under 
 
 the apron of the turkey, put the liver 
 
 and gizzard in the pinions, turn the small 
 
 end of the pinions on the back, run a 
 
 packing needle with string through the 
 
 joint of the wing and middle joint of the 
 
 leg, and through the body, and out at 
 
 the opposite leg and wing, bring it round 
 
 and tie it on the back, then run the 
 
 needle and string through the ends of the 
 
 legs or drumstick, press it through the 
 
 back, and tie strongly ; it is then ready. 
 
 "When the turkey is trussed, then stuff 
 
 it ; and if intended to have oyster sauce 
 
 with it, chop about two dozen of oysters 
 
 into small dice and mix them with the 
 
 stuffing, and place inside the breast. Then 
 
 rub the breast with half a lemon, and 
 
 put it into a two-gallon pan, and cover it 
 
 with cold water, to which are added two 
 
 ounces of butter, one ounce of salt, four 
 
 onions, a stick of celery, one carrot, two 
 
 turnips sliced, a large bouquet of parsley, 
 
 two bay leaves, two sprigs of thyme ; set 
 
 it on the fire, when beginning to boil 
 
 skim it. let it simmer two hours or more 
 
 if large ; try the breast with a needle, if 
 
 it goes in and out easily it is done ; take 
 
 t out and set it on a dish to drain, re- 
 move the string, serve on a fresh dish 
 ith a pint of good thick oyster sauce 
 over it. By omitting the oysters in 
 stuffing, you may serve the turkey with 
 celery sauce, tomato, or mushroom, or 
 z;ood parsley and butter ; and, as an ac- 
 companiment, a piece of about two pounds 
 of nice streaked bacon, which hUs been 
 soiled with the turkey, and from which 
 you have removed the skin, and serve on 
 some greens, or Brussels sprouts, over 
 which you have thrown a little salt, pep- 
 3er, and two ounces of oiled butter. 
 
 You see, dear , that this dish can be 
 
 varied without much expense and 
 trouble ; observe, that this way, the 
 broth is good for soup the same day, by 
 the addition of two pounds of veal cut in 
 small pieces, a quarter of a pound of lean 
 bacon, one onion, one blade of mace, a 
 leek, a wineglass of water ; put it into a 
 separate stewpan, stew on fire till form- 
 ing a white glaze, then add it to the tur- 
 key, when on the point of boiling ; when 
 done, skim off all fat, pass it through a 
 tammy or cloth ; you may use it for any 
 clear soup by adding a little brown gravy 
 or coloring, and also for any kind of 
 puree ; or, by reducing it a little, make 
 white or brown sauce, adding to the last 
 the proper color. 
 
 I must observe, that this will be al- 
 most inpracticable when you have a 
 party ; the only plan would be to get the 
 turkey done one hour before you require 
 it, keeping it hot with its breast in some 
 of the stock ; but, as the broth will keep 
 well in small quantities, it can be reserv- 
 ed for the next day. That is my plan of 
 boiling, but the following is my new way 
 of giving the flavor of vegetables to all 
 poultry, which is a decided improvement. 
 The aroma from the bird when the cover 
 is removed is quite inviting, and the ap- 
 pearance of it, which is as white as alabas- 
 ter, and cuts also full of juice : I call 
 it. 
 
TURKEY. 
 
 359 
 
 975. EOAST BKAISED TJJKKEY (Soyer.) 
 
 Peel and wash two onions, one carrot, 
 one turnip, cut them in thin slices, also 
 a little celery, a few sprigs of parsley, 
 two bay-leaves, lay three sheets of paper 
 on the table, spread your vegetables, and 
 pour over them two or three tablespoon- 
 fuls of oil ; have your turkey, or poularde, 
 trussed the same as for boiling ; cut a 
 few slices of lemon, which you place on 
 the breast to keep it white, then cover 
 with thin slices of bacon, and place the 
 back of the bird on the vegetables ; tie 
 the paper round with string, then pass 
 the spit and set it before the fire ; pour 
 plenty of fat over to moisten the paper 
 and prevent it from burning, roast three 
 hours at a pretty good distance from the 
 fire: capons will take two hours, pou- 
 lardes one hour and a half, fowls one hour, 
 and chickens half an hour. This way it 
 may be served with almost any sauce or 
 garniture, as stewed peas, oyster sauce, 
 jardiniere, stewed celery, cauliflower, 
 stewed cucumbers, Jerusalem artichokes, 
 which should be turned in the shape of 
 a pear : these should be dished on a 
 border of mashed potatoes ; that is, an 
 artichoke and a Brussels sprout alter- 
 nately, or a small piece of white cauli- 
 flower, and a small bunch of green as- 
 paragus, or stewed peas, or stewed celery, 
 of two inches long, never more ; or any 
 other vegetable, according to season, 
 which taste or fancy may dictate. When 
 I want to serve them with brown gar- 
 niture or sauce, I remove the paper and 
 vegetables twenty minutes before it is 
 done, and give it a light golden color, 
 then I serve it with either a ragout finan- 
 cier, or mushroom, or English truffle. I 
 also often stuff it thus : I put two pounds 
 of sausage meat in a basin with a little 
 grated nutmeg; I then take two table- 
 spoonfuls of chopped onions, put them in 
 a saute-pan with a little butter, and let 
 them do for two minutes, which add to 
 
 the meat, also two eggs well beaten up, 
 and a quarter of a pint of white sauce, if 
 at hand, and fifteen fine roasted chesnuts ; 
 add this to the stuffing, and fill the bird 
 as usual, not too full at the breast ; roast 
 as above, giving half an hour longer for 
 the forcemeat ; put a quart of demiglaze 
 and a glass of sherry in "a stewpan, re- 
 duce it to a pint and a half, add in it 
 fifty button onions previously stewed, 
 and twenty-five roasted chesnuts ; sauce 
 under. 
 
 976.-TUEKEY, IF OLD. 
 
 The French stew it exactly like the 
 ribs of beef. Soyer says : Put a quarter 
 of a pound of butter into a convenient- 
 sized stewpan, such as will conveniently 
 hold it j cut one pound of lean bacon in 
 ten or twelve pieces, put a few minutes 
 in the pan on the fire ; then add your 
 turkey trussed as for boiling, breast 
 downwards ; set it on a moderate fire for 
 one hour, and until it is a nice color ; add 
 two table-spoonfuls of flour, and stir well 
 round until it forms a roux; then add 
 two quarts of water or broth ; when you 
 have it on the point of boiling, add fifty 
 pieces of carrot the size of walnuts, the 
 like of turnip, ten button onions, a good 
 bouquet of sprigs of thyme, two bay- 
 leaves, and ten of parsley, a small glass 
 of rum, a clove, a piece of garlic, and let 
 it stew gently for four hours. If you use 
 water, season in proportion. Take the 
 turkey out, and put the vegetables and 
 sauce in a smaller stewpan, which ought 
 to be nearly full ; let it simmer on the 
 corner of the fire, so that the fat rises and 
 may be removed, and reduce it to a demi- 
 glaze ; dish up the turkey, and serve with 
 the sauce over it ; small new potatoes, 
 about twenty, when in season, may be 
 added to the sauce, or roasted chesnuts. 
 The remains are excellent when cold, or 
 will warm again with the addition of a 
 little broth or water. 
 
360 
 
 THE PEACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 FOWLS. 
 
 FOWLS, in a general sense, mean all 
 kinds of poultry ; but, in a limited view, 
 one species of bird. We distinguish this 
 kind in cookery, as the chicken, capon, 
 pullet, cock, and hen. Chickens from 
 their age cannot be otherwise than ten- 
 der. Capons should have a fat vein under 
 the wing ; thick belly and rump ; comb 
 short and pale; spurs short and blunt, 
 and legs smooth. Pullets are best in the 
 spring, just before they begin to lay. 
 Cocks should have their spurs short, legs 
 smooth, and comb short, smooth, and a 
 bright color. Hens, legs and comb 
 smooth, and full breast. Black legs are 
 best for roasting and entries, and white 
 for boiling. 
 
 For preparing them for table, M. Soyer 
 invented a plan : by cutting the sinews 
 of the bird, it not only appears fuller and 
 plumper when cooked, as the heat is lia- 
 ble to contract the sinews, but it also af- 
 fords facility for carving when the sinews 
 are divided ; they are trussed in the usual 
 way, only using strings instead of skewers. 
 
 977. TUEKEY PULLED AND GEILLED 
 Is a mode of preparing the remains of 
 cold turkey, by mincing the white meat 
 and fricasseeing it with white sauce ; the 
 legs being scored, peppered, and salted, 
 broiled, and sent up over the mince. 
 
 Or devilled^ as thus: On the rump, 
 gizzard, and a drumstick, put salt, pep- 
 per, and cayenne. Let them be broiled, 
 and brought to table as hot as possible ; 
 cut them in small pieces ; pour over them 
 a ladle of mustard; ditto of melted but- 
 ter, a spoonful^of soy, ditto of lemon-juice, 
 and some of the gravy out of the dish ; 
 mix quickly and hand round. It forms 
 an admirable relish ; fowls may be treated 
 in the same manner. 
 
 978. CAPON, OE POULAEDE, * . 
 
 Should be stuffed and roasted, or other- 
 
 wise dressed, in precisely the same man- 
 ner as turkey. They are the male and 
 female of the common fowl, but, when 
 caponed, grow nearly to the size of tur- 
 keys, and are very rarely, if ever, boiled. 
 
 979.-1 LA PEOVENQALE. 
 
 Ha]f roast the fowl ; cut it in pieces ; 
 take a dozen onions ; cut them in rings ; 
 add a little parsley chopped. Place them 
 in a stewpan, laying a bed of onions and 
 parsley, then fowl, till the whole are used ; 
 add a glass of oil or cream, with one or 
 two bay leaves and salt ; let them simmer 
 slowly ; dish the fowl ; put the onions in 
 the middle ; add a little sauce, and send 
 it to table. 
 
 980. POELEE TO BOIL FOWLS IN. 
 
 Take two pounds of veal and two 
 pounds of bacon ; cut both into large dice ; 
 cut also two large carrots and two onions 
 into dice; put them, with a pound of 
 butter, into a stewpan, the juice of four 
 lemons, a little thyme or sweet fennel, 
 and two laurel-leaves bruised ; season it 
 with salt and pepper ; put them on a good 
 fire ; add a spoonful of boiling broth, and 
 boil it. 
 
 981. FOWLS, FOECED. 
 
 Cut - a large fowl down the back; re- 
 move the skin from the whole of the body 
 very carefully ; cut the flesh from the 
 bones, and chop it up finely with half a 
 pint of oysters, and an ounce of beef mar- 
 row ; then season with pepper and salt. 
 Add sufficient cream to mix it well ; lay 
 the meat on the bones; draw the skin 
 over, and sew up the back. Lay thin 
 slices of bacon on the breast ; tie them on 
 in diamonds, and roast it an hour by a 
 moderate fire. Pour a good brown gravy 
 sauce into the dish. Remove the bacon 
 from the fowl, and then place the fowl in 
 the dish. Garnish with oysters or mush- 
 rooms, and serve hot. 
 
FOWL. 
 
 361 
 
 982. E OAST FOWLS. 
 
 If nicely trussed, make a stuffing with 
 butter and some pepper, dry up the butter 
 with bread-crumbs, baste it well, and flour 
 and salt before you take it from the fire. 
 If approved of, stuff the fowl with some 
 good sausage-meat, truffles, or chestnuts, 
 roast it twenty minutes, unless a very 
 fine one, and then it will take three quar- 
 ters of an hour ; serve with bread sauce, 
 or parsley and butter ; egg sauce is some- 
 times sent to table with it. 
 
 If a small lump of salt butter, well 
 covered with black pepper, is placed with- 
 in the fowl previous to roasting, it will 
 be found to improve the fowl by remov- 
 ing the dryness which is met with in the 
 back and side bones. 
 
 983. BOILED FOWLS. 
 Flour a white cloth, and put the fowls 
 in cold water ; let them simmer three 
 quarters of an hour, serve with parsley 
 and butter, or oyster or celery sauce. 
 The fowls may be covered with a white 
 sauce if sent cold to table, garnished 
 with colored calf s-foot jelly of the hue 
 of beet-root. 
 
 Boiled with Oysters. Take a young fowl, 
 fill the inside with oysters, put it into a jar, 
 and plunge the jar in a kettle or saucepan 
 of water. Boil it for an hour and a half. 
 There will be a quantity of gravy from 
 the juices of the fowl and oysters in the 
 jar ; make it into a white sauce, with the 
 addition of egg, cream, or a little flour 
 and butter ; add oysters to it, or serve 
 it up plain with the fowl. The gravy 
 that comes from a fowl dressed in this 
 manner will be a stiff jelly the next day ; 
 the fowl will be very white and tender, 
 and of an exceedingly fine flavor ad- 
 vantages not attainable in ordinary boil- 
 ing while the dish loses nothing of its 
 delicacy and simplicity. 
 
 934. TO BEAISE A FOWL. 
 
 Bone the breast, and fill it with 
 
 forcemeat. Lay the bones, and any 
 other poultry trimmings, into a stew- 
 pan, and the fowl on them. Put to 
 them a few onipns, a fagot of herbs, three 
 blades of mace, a pint of stock, and a 
 glass or two of sherry. Cover the fowl 
 with slices of bacon, and then with white 
 paper , cover the whole close, and put it 
 on a slow stove for one hour. Then take 
 it up, strain the braise, and skim off the 
 fat carefully ; set it on to boil very quickly 
 to a glaze, and put it over the fowl with 
 a brush. Serve with a brown fricassee 
 of mushrooms. Before glazing, put the 
 fowl into an oven for a few minutes, to 
 give a little color. 
 
 With Eice.ThQ fowl should be stew- 
 ed very slowly in some clear veal or mut- 
 ton broth, well skimmed, and seasoned 
 with pepper, salt, mace, and an onion. 
 About half an hour before it is ready add 
 a gill of rice, well washed and soaked ; 
 simmer until tender, then strain the rice 
 from the broth, and lay it on a sieve be- 
 fore the fire to swell ; then dish the fowl 
 with the rice round it. 
 
 White sauce is the most fashionable 
 accompaniment, the old method of dish- 
 ing with parsley and butter being on the 
 decline; but as parsley still maintains 
 its ground with many people, it is advis- 
 able to boil a sufficient quantity : press 
 and chop it, garnishing the dish with 
 small mounds thus prepared, which may 
 be mixed at table with the white sauce 
 by the guests who like the flavor of 
 parsley. Liver-sauce is sometimes served 
 with boiled fowls, but celery or oyster- 
 sauce is preferable. 
 
 985. FOWL HASHED. 
 
 This receipt will serve for any but the 
 very larger species of poultry or game ; 
 joint thejn and cut a cutlet from each 
 side of the breast. If it has not been 
 eaten when previously dressed, break the 
 bones of the body, and put all into a 
 
362 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 stewpan with a pint of water, a small 
 faggot of sweet herbs, one carrot sliced, 
 and an onion ; let it stew an hour and 
 three quarters, or two hours, skim the 
 fat from the gravy as it rises, strain it, 
 skim again, and pour it into another 
 stewpan ; thicken with a little butter 
 and flour, flavor with Harvey's sauce, or 
 any sauce applicable to such a dish, a 
 little pepper and salt, and ground nut- 
 meg, or mace for seasoning ; add the 
 fowl, and heat it thoroughly through 
 without permitting the hash to come to 
 a boil. Sippets of toasted or fried bread 
 cut in dice surround the dish, in the 
 centre of which the fowl is handsomely 
 laid. 
 
 986. FBIED FOWL. 
 
 When you have cut the pieces as be- 
 fore, put them into a basin with a little 
 salt and pepper, a spoonful of oil, and 
 two of vinegar, and a little chopped 
 eschalot ; stir them well in it, and let re-r 
 main for half an hour ; have ready a quan- 
 tity of batter, and take a fork and dip 
 each piece one after the other into it, and 
 then let it drop into the frying-pan, in 
 which is sufficient hot fat to cover them ; 
 fry a nice color, and serve in the form of 
 a pyramid, with fried parsley over, or 
 any sauce you like under. 
 
 987. FOWL PILLATJ. 
 
 Put one pound of rice into a frying- 
 pan with two ounces of butter, which 
 keep moving over a slow fire, until the 
 rice is lightly browned ; then have ready 
 a fowl trussed as for boiling, which put 
 into a stewpan, with five pints of good 
 broth ; pound in a mortar about forty car- 
 damom seeds with the husks, half an 
 ounce of coriander seeds, and sufficient 
 cloves, allspice, mace, cinnamon, and pep- 
 percorns, to make two ounces in the ag- 
 gregate ; which tie up tightly in a cloth, 
 and put into the stewpan with the fowl ; 
 let it boil slowly until the fowl is nearly 
 
 done ; then add the rice, which let stew 
 until quite tender and almost dry ; have 
 ready four onions, which cut into slices 
 the thickness of half crown pieces ; sprin- 
 kle over with flour, and fry," without 
 breaking them, of a nice brown color ; 
 have also six thin slices of bacon, curled 
 and grilled, and two eggs boiled hard ; 
 lay the fowl upon your dish, which cover 
 over with the rice, forming a pyramid ; 
 garnish with the bacon, fried onions, and 
 the hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters, 
 and serve very hot 
 
 988. TO BEOIL A FOWL. 
 
 Split the fowl clown the back j season 
 it very well with pepper, and put it on 
 the gridiron with the inner part next the 
 fire, which must be very clear. Hold 
 the gridiron at a considerable distance 
 from the fire, and allow the fowl to re- 
 main until it is nearly half done ; then 
 turn it, taking great care that it does not 
 burn. Broil it of a fine brown, and serve 
 it up with stewed mushrooms, or a sauce 
 with pickled mushrooms. A duck may 
 be brpiled in the same way. If the fowl 
 is very large, half roast it; then cut it 
 into four quarters and finish it on the 
 gridiron. 
 
 989. FEICASSEE OF FOWL. 
 
 Put the fowl into a jar, with sliced 
 onion, parsley, salt, and a piece of butter 
 rolled in flour ; let it remain in a kettle 
 of water on the fire until three parts done ; 
 then skim and strain the liquor, and after 
 draining, wipe the fowl dry. Put it into 
 a stewpan, with a piece of butter and a 
 slice or two of ham ; throw in a little 
 flour, and shake it until it is of a good 
 color. Moisten with the liquor taken out 
 of the jar, adding parsley, young onions, 
 a bay leaf, a clove, sorrel, and mushrooms 
 cut into pieces j skim it, and let it stew 
 until done ; then take out the herbs, and 
 thicken the sauce with a little cream, but 
 
FOWL. 
 
 363 
 
 do not let it boil : finish with a little 
 lemon-juice, and pour the sauce over all. 
 
 Or : Rather more than half-boil in a 
 small quantity of water: let the fowl 
 cool ; then cut up, and put to simmer in 
 a little gravy made of the liquor it is 
 boiled in, and a bit of veal or mutton, 
 onion, mace, and lemon-peel, some white 
 pepper, and a bunch of sweet herbs. 
 When quite tender, keep it hot while you 
 thicken the sauce in the following man- 
 ner : strain it off, and put it back into the 
 saucepan with a little salt, a scrape of 
 nutmeg, and a bit of flour and butter; 
 give it one boil ; and when you are going 
 to serve, beat up the yolk of an egg, and 
 half a pint of cream, and stir them over 
 the fire, but do not let them boil. 
 
 990. POELE. (French.) 
 
 Poele is almost the same operation as 
 braising ; the only difference is, that what 
 is poele must be underdone, and a braise 
 must be done through. 
 
 As the poele has no translation, it re- 
 tains its name ; it is indispensable in fine 
 cookery, and is made as follows : 
 
 Take one pound of beef suet, one pound 
 of very fresh butter, and one pound of 
 very fat bacon; cut the suet and the ba- 
 con into very large dice ; put them into a 
 stewpan with two pounds of veal cut in 
 the same manner, fried till the veal be- 
 comes very white, and then moisten with 
 about three pints of clear boiling water, 
 a handful of salt, one bay leaf, a few sprigs 
 of thyme, one onion stuck with three 
 cloves, and a great bundle of parsley and 
 green onions : let the whole boil gently 
 till the onion is done; then drain it 
 through a hair sieve, and use it for any 
 thing that may want poele. The use of 
 poele is to make every thing boiled in it 
 very white and tasty : in the winter it 
 keeps for a week, and is very useful in 
 the larder, particularly if you do not put 
 in any of the fleshy part of the bacon j 
 
 otherwise the meat that you boil in it will 
 turn quite red, on account of the saltpetre 
 used in curing the bacon. 
 
 991. EISSOLES. 
 
 Pick from the bones and skin any kind 
 of cold poultry ; weigh it, and add one- 
 third of grated bread-crumbs, a little cold 
 melted butter, a small onion, previously 
 boiled and finely minced, pepper, salt, and 
 the yolks of two eggs, to bind it together. 
 Roll out, thin, some trimmings of puff- 
 paste ; cut it in two inch square pieces j 
 put in the middle of each a teaspoonful 
 of the mince ; fold the paste over it, and 
 shape it with a cutter. Egg the shapes ; 
 dip them in bread-crumbs, and fry them 
 in lard ; serve dry ; garnish with fried 
 parsley, and take care that the edges be 
 perfectly closed. 
 
 Or : Pound any kind of cold meat ; 
 thicken a little good gravy with cream or 
 butter ; season the meat, and mix it with 
 the sauce, until it is well moistened ; then 
 roll out some paste into oval pieces ; lay 
 a large table-spoonful of the meat on one 
 end ; double it over ; press the edges to- 
 gether, and scallop them ; brush the paste 
 over with yolk of egg ; sprinkle vermicelli 
 upon it, and fry them. 
 
 991. PUEEE DE VOLAILLE. 
 
 Mince the white part of a cold fowl or 
 turkey very finely ; then pound it in a 
 mortar : put in two or three spoonfuls of 
 white sauce, and pass it through a sieve, 
 adding a little salt and white pepper, and 
 warm the whole. It may be served up 
 with the legs grilled. It should not be 
 too thin, but can be made the proper con- 
 sistence by a greater or smaller quantity 
 of white sauce or cream. Garnish with 
 fried bread, or paste cut in shapes. It 
 may also be served up in a casserolle, or 
 wall of rice and mashed potatoes, or with 
 poached eggs. 
 
364 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 993. BOILED CHICKENS. 
 
 Chickens should be plump, or they 
 form a meagre dish ; they should receive 
 much attention in the boiling; they re- 
 quire less time than a fowl, and are sent 
 to table with white sauce, and garnished 
 with tufts of white broccoli. 
 
 994 CHICKENS PULLED. 
 Remove the skin carefully from a cold 
 chicken, then pull the flesh from the 
 bones, preserving it as whole as you can. 
 Flour them well, fry them a nice brown 
 in fresh butter ; draw them, and stew in 
 a good gravy well seasoned ; thicken a 
 short time before serving with flour and 
 butter, and add the juice of half a lemn. 
 
 995. CUEEIED CHICKENS. 
 
 Lay the pieces of a dressed chicken 
 into a stewpan with a sliced onion fried 
 brown, a clove of garlic, and some good 
 white gravy : simmer till the chicken is 
 tender, add a spoonful of curry powder, 
 flour rubbed smooth with a lump of but- 
 ter ; a quarter of a pint of cream, with a 
 little salt, may be added twenty minutes 
 before serving: squeeze a little lemon 
 into it, and put an edging of rice round 
 the dish. 
 
 996. TO BEAISE CHICKENS. 
 Bone the chickens, stuff them with 
 forcemeat, place in the stewpan the bones 
 and trimmings : lay the chickens upon 
 them with a braise of sweet herbs, onions, 
 mace whole, some thin slices of bacon, 
 about three parts of a pint of stock, or, 
 if that is not handy, water, two glasses 
 of sherry : the bacon should be added 
 last. Cover close, and stew for two 
 hours. Then take out the chickens, 
 strain the braise, remove the fat, and 
 boil the braise rapidly to a glaze, paint 
 it over the chickens with a brush while 
 the braise is being boiled; brown the 
 chickens before the fire ; it adds to their 
 
 appearance. When glazed, fowls may be 
 braised in the same manner. 
 
 997. FEIED CHICKEN A LA MALABAR. 
 
 The Indian receipts for cooking chicken 
 are very numerous; we select the fol- 
 lowing. Cut up the fowl as for a stew, 
 removing the joints carefully and carving 
 the body into handsome shapes ; remove 
 all moisture with a clean dry cloth, and 
 powder every part with curry ; fry it in 
 fresh butter, to which half a teaspoon - 
 ful of curry has been added, a pale 
 brown ; cut into small pieces two or three 
 onions, and fry in clear butter, sufficient 
 to keep the pan from burning ; but not 
 more than should be absorbed by the onion 
 after some time frying. It is as well here 
 to say, that as onions are frequently used 
 in "the curried poultry by the Indian 
 cooks, they employ the following method. 
 When to be cut small, they slice the 
 onions and then separate them into rings, 
 cutting these rings i#to the sizes they 
 may require, which, if a little more labor, 
 yet presents a better appearance ; when 
 they are fried sufficiently to have absorb- 
 ed the grease in the pan without in any 
 degree having been burned, spread them 
 over the chicken and serve; a whole 
 lemon should be sent to table with them. 
 
 993. PIGEONS ROASTED. 
 
 Veal stuffing for pigeons improves the 
 flavor ; they must be fresh and well 
 cleaned; butter and parsley may be 
 served with them, but parsley alone as a 
 stuffing, though frequently used, is by n 
 means so palatable as the veal stuffing, or 
 one made with veal, the fat of bacon and 
 the crumb of bread soaked in milk and 
 well seasoned. Let your pigeons be 
 picked clean and washed, then stuff the 
 whole inside of the pigeon with fine stuf- 
 fing. 
 
 To Broil. Split the backs, season them 
 highly, lay them over a clear brisk fire ; 
 serve with mushroom sauce. 
 
PIGEONS. 
 
 365 
 
 To Cook as WoodcocJcs. Toast some 
 bread as for woodcocks, butter it, and 
 drop a few drops of essence of anchovies 
 on the butter, spread it all over the 
 toast, then put the toast under the pi- 
 geons while roasting. 
 
 To Stew. Take a white cabbage, cut 
 it as for pickling, rinse it in clear cold 
 water, drain it well, put it into a sauce- 
 pan with equal quantities of milk and 
 water, boil it, strain oif the milk, and 
 take a portion of the cabbage and lay it 
 in a stewpan ; soak the pigeons for half 
 an hour in cold milk and water, season 
 them well with salt and pepper, adding a 
 little cayenne ; place them in the stew- 
 pan with the cabbage, cover them over 
 with what remains, add some white broth, 
 stew slowly until the pigeons are tender, 
 thicken with a little cream, flour, and 
 butter; let it boil, and serve up the 
 pigeon with a puree of the cabbage. 
 Lard and braise them in the same man- 
 ner as chickens. 
 
 999. COMP6TE OF PIGEONS. 
 
 Blanch four pigeons, then stuff them, 
 place them in a stewpan, put in an on- 
 ion, a slice of lemon, and a small handful 
 of mushrooms ; lay over them slices of 
 fat bacon, add half a pint of good gravy, 
 and stew gently until the pigeons are 
 tender ; take them out of the gravy and 
 keep them hot, strain off the gravy, skim 
 it clear, then thicken with half a spoon- 
 ful of flour, and a lump of butter, the 
 size of a small walnut ; season with salt, 
 pepper, and a little cayenne ; a few force- 
 meat balls may be added at pleasure ; 
 pour half into the dish with the pigeons, 
 and serve the remainder in a tureen. 
 
 1000.-PIGEONS IN JELLY. 
 
 Make some jelly of calf's foot, or if 
 you have the liquor in which a knuckle 
 of veal has been boiled, it will answer 
 the same purpose ; place it in a stewpan 
 
 with a bunch of sweet herbs, a blade of 
 mace, white pepper, a slice of lean bacon, 
 some lemon-peel, and the pigeons, which, 
 being trussed and their necks propped up 
 to make them appear natural, season to 
 your palate. Bake them; when they are 
 done remove them from the liquor, but 
 keep them covered close, that their color 
 may be preserved. Remove the* fat, boil 
 the whites of a couple of eggs with the 
 jelly to clear it, and strain it; this is 
 usually done by dipping a cloth into 
 boiling water, and straining it through it, 
 as it prevents any thing like scum or dirt 
 sweeping through the strainer. Put the 
 jelly rough over and round the pigeons. 
 
 1001. PIGEONS OE ANT BIED IN ASPIC 
 JELLY. 
 
 Get three pigeons, take out the bones, 
 leaving on the neck and head ; fill the 
 birds with some forcemeat, making them 
 the shape of the bird, cover them with 
 fat bacon, put them on a dish, place them 
 in the oven until done, take them out to 
 get cold, have ready some very light 
 colored aspic jelly ; either chop your jelly 
 round them on the dish or in a mould, if 
 in a mould place the breast downwards, 
 let the jelly be quite cold and beginning 
 to set before you pour it in ; I5ut if you 
 intend to ornament your mould, do it 
 with green, red, and white devices, with 
 what may then be in season ; radishes, 
 whites of hard eggs, cucumbers, French 
 beans, truffles, and any other eatable and 
 wholesome thing : never use any thing 
 that is injurious to health ; set it to get 
 stiff, turn out with warm water. 
 
 1002. LAKES OE SMALL BIEDS. 
 
 Be very particular in roasting ; melt a 
 little butter, add to it a yolk of egg, and 
 with your paste-brush egg all over them, 
 and then bread-crumb them ; while roast- 
 ing frequently baste them and flour 
 them, and before you take them up flour 
 
366 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 and salt them ; send them up with some 
 brown bread-crumbs. 
 
 1008. GUINEA FOWLS. 
 
 These birds must be very young, for, 
 being naturally very dry, they are not 
 eatable if more than twelve months old ; 
 they are generally larded, and served 
 plain roasted, rather well done ; they are 
 trussed like the common fowl, and re- 
 quire nearly three-quarters of an hour to 
 roast. It has very much the flavor of 
 the pheasant, and should be allowed to 
 hang as long as it can without being too 
 far gone. Serve with a rich brown gravy 
 and bread sauce ; it will take from forty- 
 five to fifty minutes. 
 
 1004. PEA FOWLS. 
 
 These magnificent birds make a noble 
 roast, and when young are very excel- 
 lent ; they are larded, or plain roasted, 
 and served with the tail feathers which 
 hlive been preserved, stuck into the bird, 
 the head, with its feathers on, being left 
 folded up in paper, and tucked under the 
 wing ; roast about an hour and a half; 
 take the paper from the head and neck ; 
 dress it upon your dish with water- 
 cresses, and the' gravy and bread sauce 
 separate tn a boat. 
 
 MADE DISHES OF POULTRY. 
 
 1005. FOWL 1 LA PKOVENgAL. 
 
 Partly roast the fowl ; cut it up, de- 
 taching the wings and legs, carefully di- 
 viding side bones, neck bones, breast, and 
 back in as handsome pieces as possible ; 
 take eight or ten large onions, which cut 
 in slices of moderate thickness, make in 
 a stewpan a layer of the sliced onion 
 with some chopped parsley, then lay 
 upon it some of the fowl, again a layer 
 of the onion and parsley until the whole 
 
 of the fowl and onion are used ; place in 
 two bay-leaves and about as much salt 
 as would fill a large teaspoon, four table- 
 spoonfuls of olive oil, or, if that is not 
 to the palate, substitute cream ; it should 
 simmer gently until enough, and then be 
 dished, the onion in the middle: serve 
 with a little sauc 
 
 1006. FOWL 1 LA BECHAMEL. 
 
 If you have had a roast capon for the 
 second course the day before, and only a 
 little cut from the breast, take a sharp 
 knife and cut through the breast bone 
 down nearly to the rump, left of the 
 breast, take off the skin and cut it up as 
 you would for pulled fowl; have ready 
 in a stewpan a little good white sauce, 
 chopped parsley, and shalot, a little piece 
 of mushroom chopped ; boil all this to- 
 gether, keeping it quite thick, scrape out 
 any thing remaining in the inside of the 
 fowl, then season with lemon-juice, salt, 
 and cayenne pepper : fill in the fowl, imi- 
 tating a whole fowl, cover it with bread- 
 crumbs, sprinkle clarified butter all over 
 the bread-crumbs, butter paper and tie 
 round the fowl, put it into the oven to 
 brown the top and get hot through ; 
 when done a light brown take off the 
 paper, and put it into your dish with a 
 good sauce under it. 
 
 1007. AN INDIAN PILAU. 
 
 Truss a fowl as for boiling, pass it a 
 few minutes in the oven, raising it up 
 with fat bacon or buttered paper; fry 
 some onions, a few bruised coriander' 
 seeds, and a few cardamom seeds whole : 
 fry a nice light color four onions cut in 
 slices, add to this a gill or more of cream, 
 having all fried in a little butter ; put in 
 your fowl with some good veal stock, 
 have ready some rice boiled in milk for 
 two minutes, skim it off and add it to 
 the fowl, frequently looking at it and 
 moving it to keep it from sticking or 
 
DISHES OF POULTRY. GOOSE. 
 
 367 
 
 burning : let your fowl stew for a quar- 
 ter of an hour before you add the rice : 
 do not let the rice get mashed ; season 
 with cayenne pepper and salt, put all the 
 rice and liquor round the fowl : you can 
 use rabbits, or chickens, or quails, or veal, 
 instead of fowl, the same way. 
 
 Gravy may be made thus: Nicely 
 wash the feet of a fowl, and cut them 
 and the neck into small pieces, simmer 
 them with a little browned bread, a slice 
 of onions, a bit of parsley, and thyme, 
 some pepper, and salt, and the liver and 
 gizzard in a quarter of a pint of water ; 
 simmer them till they are reduced to a 
 half; take out the liver, bruise it, and 
 strain the liquor to it, then thicken it 
 with flour and butter, and add a teaspoon- 
 ful of mushroom ketchup. 
 
 1008. CUEET OF CHICKEN. 
 
 Cut up a raw chicken ; put into a 
 stewpan, with two ounces of butter, half 
 a large onion sliced thin, a few sprigs of 
 parsley and thyme, and two ounces of 
 lean ham ; let the whole sweat over the 
 fire for a few minutes ; add a heaped ta- 
 ble-spoonful of curry-powder, and a small 
 one of flour ; shake the whole together 
 for five minutes over the fire ; put to it 
 a pint of either gravy or water ; let the 
 whole go gently until the chicken is 
 done ; take out the chicken, rub the sauce 
 through a sieve, boil it up, skim, put in 
 the chicken, season with salt and lemon- 
 juice to palate. Plain boiled rice to be 
 served in a separate dish. 
 
 Croquettes. Take the lean of the re- 
 mains of a fowl from a previous dinner, 
 and chop it up in small pieces, then put 
 into a stewpan a teaspoonful of chopped 
 eschalots, with half an ounce of butter : 
 pass them for about three minutes over 
 the fire, add a teaspoonful of flour, mix 
 well, then add the fowl, and a gill of 
 white sauce, or more if not sufficiently 
 moist; season with pepper, salt, and 
 sugar ; then stir hi the yolks of two eggs 
 
 very quickly, stir it a little longer on the 
 fire, and turn it out on a dish to cool ; 
 when cold, take twelve pieces, each the 
 size of a walnut, roll them out an inch 
 and a half in length, and bread-crumb 
 twice over ; fry a good color. 
 
 1009. DUMPOKHT.* 
 
 Clean and truss a fowl, or rabbit, as 
 for roasting ; then stuff it with sultana 
 raisins, pistachio-nuts, and boiled rice in 
 equal parts. Rub fine one ounce of co- 
 riander-seed, freed from the husks, four 
 onions, a dozen peppercorns, six cloves, 
 and a teaspoonful of pounded ginger. 
 Set twelve ounces of butter in a stewpan 
 over the fire, rub the pounded ingredi- 
 ents over the fowl or rabbit, and let it 
 fry until perfectly well browned and 
 tender. Have boiled in a quart of white 
 broth twelve ounces of rice, two ounces 
 of raisins, two ounces of pistachio-nuts, 
 and two of almonds, the two latter 
 blanched, and cut into thin slices. When 
 the rice is nearly tender, strain off the 
 broth, and add the rice to the fried fowl ; 
 stir the whole well, that the butter may 
 completely saturate the rice, and keep it 
 near the fire to swell till wanted. In 
 serving surround the fowl with the rice. 
 
 Observe that, in pounding the onions, 
 the juice only is used with the spices. 
 
 1010. TUEKEY GIBLETS A LA BOUB- ' 
 GEOIS. 
 
 The giblets consist of pinions, feet, 
 neck, liver, anfl gizzard ; scald, and put 
 them into a stewpan with a piece of but- 
 ter, parsley, scallions. garlic, thyme, bay- 
 leaf, basil, mushrooms, and a clove or two ; 
 moisten with stock, season with pepper 
 and salt, make it hot, thicken with a 
 little flour, and when almost done add a 
 few turnips fried slightly in a little but- 
 ter. 
 
 * A dish mentioned in the Arabian Nights as the 
 kid stuffed with pistachio-nuts. 
 
368 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 1011.-TO ROAST A GOOSE. 
 
 Goose in itself is of a strong rich fla- 
 vor, and requires both nicety in- the cook- 
 ing as well as in the stuffing to obviate 
 that strength of flavor. There are many 
 modes of stuffing; for one mode, take 
 two moderate sized onions and boil them 
 rapidly ten minutes, then chop them 
 finely, mince sage to the quantity of 
 half the onion, add of powdered bread 
 twice as much as of onion, pepper and 
 salt it, introducing a little cayenne, and 
 then bind it with the beaten yolk of an 
 egg. Potatoes mashed are sometimes 
 introduced, but not frequently into the 
 body ; they should be mashed with floury 
 potatoes mixed with cream and a little 
 fresh butter rather highly seasoned with 
 cayenne and salt. Both ends of the 
 goose should be secured when trussed, 
 that the seasoning may not escape. It 
 shouM be roasted before a quick fire and 
 kept constantly basted ; a piece of white 
 paper may be placed over the breast 
 while roasting until it rises, and then it 
 may be removed ; it will take from an 
 hour and a half to an hour and three- 
 quarters : serve with a rich brown gravy 
 and apple sauce. 
 
 Previous to sending to table, a flavor- 
 ing may be made as follows : to a dessert- 
 spoonful of made mustard add a quarter 
 of a teaspoonful of cayenne pepper, about 
 the same quantity of salt, mix it evenly 
 with a glass of port wine and two glasses 
 of rich gravy, make it hot, cut a slit in 
 the apron of the goose, and pour it 
 through just previously to serving. 
 
 A Green Goose is seldom or never 
 stuffed ; the inside may be well peppered 
 and salted, and it should be roasted be- 
 fore a brisk fire about three-quarters of 
 an hour ; it^ should be sent to table with 
 no other accompaniment than a good 
 brown gravy and apple or sorrel sauce. 
 
 1012. PRESERVED GOOSE FOR THE FARM 
 OR COUNTRY HOUSE. 
 
 In case you have more geese in condi- 
 
 tion and season than what you consume, 
 kill and cut them up into pieces, so that 
 there shall be as little flesh left on the 
 carcass as possible, and bone the leg ; 
 rub into each piece with your fingers 
 some salt, in which you have mixed a 
 little saltpetre ; put them into an earthen 
 pan, with some thyme, bay-leaf, spice, 
 a clove of chopped garlic, rub them for 
 a couple of days, after which dip each 
 piece in water, and dry on a cloth ; when 
 you have chopped fine and melted all 
 the fat you could get from the goose, and 
 scraped a quarter of a pound of fat ba- 
 con and melted with it, pass through a 
 sieve into a stewpan, lay the pieces in it, 
 and bake very gently in a slow oven, 
 until a stiff piece of straw will go 
 through it, then lay it in a sieve ; when 
 nearly cold put it in a bowl or round 
 preserving jar, and press a smaller one 
 on the top, so that it all forms one solid 
 mass, pour the fat over, when cold cover 
 with a piece of bladder, keep it in a cold 
 place, and it will be good for months to- 
 gether, and is excellent for breakfast, 
 luncheon, or supper, having previously 
 extracted the fat. Last winter I kept 
 some for three months quite sweet ; hav- 
 ing half a one left, I put it by in the 
 above way, bones and all, in a basin, and 
 covered with the fat produced by roast- 
 ing, and put it in the larder, and it was 
 excellent. Ducks may be served in the 
 same way. 
 
 Marbled Goose. Take a fine mellow 
 ox-tongue out of pickle, cut off the root 
 and horny part at the tip, wipe dry, and 
 boil till it is quite tender ; then peel it, 
 cut a deep slit in its whole length, and 
 lay a fair proportion of the following 
 mixture within it : Mace half an ounce, 
 nutmeg half an ounce, clove half an ounce, 
 salt two table-spoonfuls, and twelve 
 olives. The olives should be stoned, and 
 all the ingredients well pounded together. 
 Next take a barn-door fowl and a good 
 large goose, and bone them. Lay the 
 
DUCKS. 
 
 369 
 
 tongue inside the fowl, rub the latter out- 
 side with the seasoning, and having ready 
 some slices of ham divested of the rind, 
 wrap them tightly round the fowl; put 
 these inside the goose, with the remain- 
 der of the seasoning, sew it up, and 
 make all secure and in natural shape 
 with a piece of new linen and tape. Put 
 it in an earthen pan or jar just large 
 enough to hold it, with plenty of clari- 
 fied butter, and bake it two hours and a 
 half in a slow oven ; then take it out, 
 and when cold take out the goose and set 
 it in a sieve ; take off the butter and 
 hard fat. which put by the fire to melt, 
 adding, if required, more clarified butter. 
 Wash and wipe out the pan, put the bird 
 again into it, and take care that it is well 
 covered with the warm butter ; then tie 
 the jar down with bladder and leather. 
 It will keep thus for a long time. When 
 wanted for the table, the jar should be 
 placed in a tub of hot water so as to 
 melt the butter, the goose then can be 
 taken out, the cloth taken off it, and sent 
 to table cotd. A most delicious dish for 
 breakfasts, suppers, pic-nics, &c. 
 
 DUCKS. 
 
 Ducks may be roasted as soon as kill- 
 ed. Keep a clear bright fire. Let them 
 be done of a light brown, but if wild they 
 should not be much roasted, or the 
 flavor will be spoiled. They take about 
 an hour to roast, and should be well 
 basted. The livers and gizzards are par- 
 boiled, chopped fine, and thrown into the 
 gravy. 
 
 Canvas back ducks are roasted in half 
 an hour; they should always be served 
 with currant jelly. For tame ducks apple 
 sauce is more appropriate. 
 
 101S. TO STEW DUCKS. 
 
 There is a difference between a stewed 
 
 duck and stewed duck, and it is not the 
 a alone ; in the one case the duck is 
 stewed whole, and in the other in pieces. 
 To stew a duck or ducks , they should be 
 stuffed and roasted for twenty minutes, 
 and then placed in a stewpan with an 
 onion cut in slices, a little sage 'and mint, 
 and sweet herbs chopped fine, and about 
 a pint of good beef gravy, seasoned with 
 pepper and salt ; let it stew gently for 
 about twenty minutes, take out the duck 
 carefully and keep it warm, strain the 
 gravy, pour it into a clean stewpan, and 
 add to it when well heated the duck and 
 a quart of green peas ; let it simmer for 
 half an hour, if not sufficiently thick add 
 a little flour and butter, a glass of good 
 old port wine, and send to table with the 
 peas in the same dish as the duck. 
 
 1014. TO STEW A DUCK WITH CLAEET. 
 
 Make a gravy of the giblets ; rub the 
 duck inside and outside with pepper and 
 a little salt ; peel and mince two or three 
 onions, and having half roasted the duck, 
 put it into a stewpan with the gravy 
 and onions. Stew it gently for two 
 hours, adding toward the end a glass of 
 claret or port wine. Squeeze the 'juice 
 of a lemon over the duck, and serve it 
 with toasted bread. 
 
 What remains of a roasted wild duck, 
 may be warmed the next day in heaters 
 with a little currant jelly, when it is ex- 
 cellent. 
 
 Ducks may be hashed and stewed with 
 a glass of port wine, thrown into the 
 gravy. 
 
 1015. TO BOIL DUCKS. 
 
 Clean and pluck them, let the skin be 
 preserved from rents while plucking, salt 
 them for about thirty hours previous to 
 cooking, flour a clean white cloth and 
 boil them in it ; a moderate sized duck 
 will take about an hour's boiling, make 
 a rich onion sauce with milk, and send it 
 to table with the duck. When the duck 
 
370 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 is boiled fresh it may be stuffed as for 
 roasting, and served with the same de- 
 scription of gravy. 
 
 1016. STEWED DUCK AND PEAS. 
 Procure a duck trussed with the legs 
 turned inside, which put into a stewpan 
 with two ounces of butter and a quarter 
 of a pound of streaked bacon, let remain 
 over a fire, stirring occasionally until 
 lightly browned, when add a tablespoon- 
 ful of flour mixed well, and a quart of 
 broth or water : stir round gently until 
 boiling, when skim, and add twenty but- 
 ton onions, a bunch of parsley, with a 
 bay-leaf, and two cloves, let simmer a 
 quarter of an hour, then add a quart of 
 nice young peas, let simmer until done, 
 which will take about half an hour longer, 
 take out the duck, place it upon your 
 dish (taking away the string it was truss- 
 ed with), take out the parsley and bay- 
 leaf, season the peas with a little pepper, 
 salt, and sugar, skim the fat, reduce a 
 little if not sufficiently thick, pour over 
 the duck, and serve. 
 
 1017.-DUCKLING- WITH TURNIPS 
 Is a very favorite dish among the mid- 
 dle classes in France. Proceed as in the 
 last, but instead of peas use about forty 
 pieces of good turnips cut into moderate- 
 sized square pieces, having previously 
 fried them of a light yellow color in a 
 little butter or lard, and drained them 
 upon a sieve ; dress the duck upon a dish 
 as before, season the sauce with a little 
 pepper, salt, and sugar: reduce until 
 rather thick, a thin sauce not suiting a 
 dish of this description j the turnips 
 must not, however, be in puree j sauce 
 over and serve. 
 
 1018. WILD DUCKS, OR TEAL. 
 You must be very particular in not 
 roasting these birds too much; baste 
 them very frequently ; teal will of course 
 
 take less time ; but your fire and motion 
 of the spit must be attended to, and when 
 you dish it, unless preferred to be done 
 by the gentleman at the table, draw your 
 knife four times down the breast ; have 
 ready a little hot butter, and juice of a 
 lemon, cayenne pepper, a little dust of 
 sugar, a glass of port wine, pour it all 
 hot, the last minute, over your ducks 5 
 the remainder left of those birds the next 
 day makes excellent salmi or hash, tak- 
 ing care of all the gravy that may re- 
 main. 
 
 They must be roasted at a very brisk 
 fire ; they take from twelve to twenty min- 
 utes, according to taste. Some people are of 
 opinion that they should only fly through 
 the kitchen : by epicures they are con- 
 sidered to be in perfection when they 
 come up dry and brown, and, when cut, 
 flood the dish with gravy. The means 
 of insuring success consists in a very ar- 
 dent fire, rapid motion of the spit, and 
 constant basting. The carver should 
 score the breast of the duck, put a piece 
 of butter on it, and cut a lemon in half, 
 putting on one half a spoonful of salt, 
 and on the other a cayenne -spoonful of 
 cayenne; put the two together, and 
 squeeze vigorously over the duck. 
 
 To stew. Shred thyme, winter savory, 
 and sage, very small, put them into some 
 strong broth, with a little pepper, salt, 
 and two spoonfuls of wine : stew them to- 
 gether for one quarter of an hour j nearly 
 roast the ducks, add the gravy that falls 
 from them, but not the fat ; then place a 
 deep dish under them, and pour this sauce 
 through, and over them into it. Remove 
 he ducks, cut them up, and put them 
 with the sauce into a stewpan over a 
 stove, and let them stew tUl they are 
 done enough. 
 
 Canvas Back Duck should be cooked 
 ike wild duck, but nearer Qie fire, the 
 "at being so delicate, that it requires to 
 t>e cooked quickly ; good plain gravy is 
 
GAME. 
 
 371 
 
 all that is required to make them per- 
 fect. 
 
 1019. PLOVEES. 
 
 Roast the golden plover in the same 
 way as woodcocks and quails, without 
 drawing ; and serve on a toast. 
 
 Grey Plovers. Draw them : they may 
 be either roasted or stewed with gravy, 
 herbs, and spice. 
 
 Plovers Eggs. Boil them ten minutes^ 
 and serve either hot or cold ; the former 
 on a napkin, the latter on moss. Send 
 to table with the second course. 
 
 1020. PAETEIDGES, 
 
 being less dry than pheasants, do not re- 
 quire stuffing, although they are improv- 
 ed by it, made either of chesnuts or 
 truffles and bacon. They are sometimes 
 roasted, wrapped in bacon and vine- 
 leaves : bread-crumbs are essential. In 
 some places partridges are sent up with 
 forcemeat-balls in the dish. 
 
 1021. TO STEW PAETEIDGE8. 
 
 Truss them with the wings over the 
 back, and the legs drawn in ; cut a piece 
 of pork or bacon in long strips, and put 
 them into a stewpan with a piece of 
 butter the size of a walnut. Fry the 
 bacon brown, and when quite done put 
 in the partridges, and keep turning them 
 until they are very brown, taking care 
 that the bacon shall be as much on the 
 breast as possible ; then add about a tea- 
 cupful of gravy, and some trimmings of 
 meat and vegetables. Have ready a 
 large cabbage boiled ; when well drained, 
 slice it with butter, pepper, and salt, put 
 it while warm with the gravy to the par- 
 tridges, and let them stew gently for an 
 hour, turning the birds frequently. Serve 
 up with the bacon underneath, and the 
 cabbage round them, squeezed dry, and 
 the sauce well skimmed. 
 
 1022. SALMI OF PAETEIDGE. 
 
 Half roast the partridges, cut them up 
 neatly, take off the skin ; put the trim- 
 mings in a stewpan, with a bit of butter 
 and a tablespoonful of flour; stir the 
 whole over the fire ; then add a glass of 
 white wine and a little gravy or stock, 
 some shalots; chopped parsley, thyme, 
 bay-leaf, pepper, salt ; let it boil fast for 
 half an hour ; strain, skim, add the juice of 
 a lemon, and make the joints of the par- 
 tridge hot in the sauce. 
 
 Or : Roast the partridges, leaving 
 them underdone. When cold, cut them 
 into pieces, taking off the skin. Put three 
 spoonfuls of oil in to a saucepan, a glass of 
 claret, salt, pepper, a shalot, and the juice 
 of a lemon. Toss the partridges in this 
 sauce until they are sufficiently done to 
 send to table. 
 
 Or : Cut up and place on a dish the 
 breasts, wings, and legs of any roasted 
 game you may have left; cover it with 
 another dish, or tin cover, and set it over 
 a pan of boiling water to keep warm. 
 Then pound the small bones of the car- 
 case, with the inside, in a mortar, and 
 put them into a saucepan with a little 
 gravy thickened with some flour rolled 
 in butter, a wine-glass of port wine, a 
 spoonful of ketchup, a very small piece 
 of shalot chopped fine, cayenne pepper, 
 and salt. When it has been boiled for 
 half an hour, strain it through a sieve, to 
 form it into a perfect puree, and pour it 
 over the game in your dish ; garnish with 
 forcemeat-balls, and slices of lemon cut 
 thin. 
 
 1028. BEOILED PAETEIDGE. 
 
 Cut the bird down the back ; break 
 the merrythought, which will allow it to 
 be made quite fat ; cut off the feet at the 
 joint, and skewer it as a fowl to broil ; 
 dry, flour, egg, and sprinkle it with 
 chopped herbs and bread-crumbs, well 
 seasoned; broil and serve with a little 
 
372 
 
 THE" PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 good gravy, with a mushroom or two 
 chopped up small. 
 
 1024 GEOUSE. 
 
 Mix a small lump of butter with a 
 few bread-crumbs, and put it in the in- 
 side of the birds not in the crop it 
 keeps them moist. They require to be 
 nicely roasted and well basted. 
 
 1025. BABBITS. 
 
 To Fricassee a rabbit cut it in pieces, 
 reserve the liver ; put a piece of bacon 
 cut in slices into a stewpan, brown it 
 well and lay it aside ; put the rabbit in 
 the pan with a piece of butter ; turn and 
 toss the rabbit well until it is quite 
 white. When it is getting brown dredge 
 a spoonful of flour over it, turning all the 
 while, and when the flour is dry, put the 
 rabbit in a plate. Then add another 
 piece of butter to the remainirg sauce, 
 and stir it well together, and when 
 brown, add a cupful of water ; continue 
 stirring, and put in the rabbit with 
 plenty of very small onions, the bacon, 
 some mushrooms, a bunch of parsley, 
 and some salt and pepper ; let it stew 
 very gently over a slow fire for four 
 hours. Add the liver and a glass of port 
 wine one hour before serving, and should 
 there not be sufficient sauce, a little 
 gravy from time to time, put in hot. 
 
 When a rabbit is roasted, it should 
 first be well stuffed. Serve it with sauce 
 made of liver, parsley, and melted 
 butter. Truss it like a hare. 
 
 Rabbits may be stewed, or fried, or 
 baked in a pie. 
 
 Rabbits, being rather dry meat, are 
 much improved by larding. Should the 
 process be deemed too troublesome upon 
 common occasions, a good effect may be 
 produced by lining the inside of the rab- 
 bit with slices of fat bacon previously 
 putting in the stuffing. This is a very 
 easy method of improvement, and ought 
 never to be neglected. 
 
 A boned rabbit, larded, stuffed, and 
 braised, affords a cheap and elegant side- 
 dish for a dinner-party. 
 
 1026. TO MAKE EABBIT TASTE MUCH 
 LIKE HAEE. 
 
 Choose one that is young, butfullgrown, 
 hang it in the skm three or four days, 
 then skin it, and lay it without washing 
 in a seasoning of black pepper and all- 
 spice in a very fine powder, a glass of 
 port wine, and the same quantity of 
 vinegar. Baste it occasionally for forty 
 hours ; then stuff it and roast it as a 
 hare, and with the same sauce. Do not 
 wash off the liquor that it was soaked 
 in. 
 
 1 1027. TO EOAST HAEE. 
 
 After it is skinned, let it be extremely 
 well wiped ; and, if old, lard it, which 
 will make it tender, as will also letting 
 it lie in vinegar. If, however, it is put into 
 vinegar, it should be exceedingly well 
 washed in water afterwards. Put a large 
 well-seasoned stuffing into the belly, and 
 then sew it up. Baste it well with milk 
 till half done, and afterwards with butter. 
 The hare should be kept at a distance 
 from the fire at first. Serve with a fine 
 froth, rich gravy, and currant jelly sauce j 
 little gravy in the dish. For stuffing 
 use the liver pounded, an anchovy, some 
 fat bacon, a little suet, herbs, pepper, 
 salt, nutmeg, crumbs of bread, and an egg 
 to bind it all. The ears must be nicely 
 cleaned, singed, and made crisp, being 
 reckoned a dainty. 
 
 1028.-JUGGED HAEE. 
 
 Skin the hare, and cut it in pieces, 
 but do not wash it ; strew it over with 
 pepper and salt, fry it brown. Make a 
 toj seasoning of two anchovies, a sprig of 
 thyme, a little parsley, a nutmeg grated, 
 a little mace, a few cloves pounded, and 
 a teaspoonful of grated lemon-peel. 
 
RABBITS, &C. 
 
 373 
 
 Strew this over the hare, after having 
 carefully taken it out of the pan clear of 
 fat, slice half Ib. of bacon very thin, put it 
 into a jug or jar, a layer of hare and one 
 of bacon upon it, until the whole is put 
 in, then add rather less than half a pint of 
 ale ; cover the jug very closely, so as per- 
 fectly to keep in the steam ; put it into 
 a kettle of cold water, lay a tile on the 
 top of the jug, and let it boil three hours if 
 the hare be young, or four or five if an old 
 one. Take the jug out of the kettle, pick 
 out all the bacon which has not melted, 
 and shake the hare up in a stewpan, with 
 a little mushroom ketchup, a glass of 
 port wine, a little mushroom powder if 
 at hand, and a little butter and flour, 
 well mixed together to thicken the 
 gravy. A teaspoonful of lemon-pickle, 
 and one of browning, will heighten the 
 flavor. 
 
 1029. P^LAU OF BABBIT. 
 Cut up a rabbit or fowl; pound a 
 couple of onions in a mortar ; extract the 
 juice, and mix it with a saltspoonful of 
 ground ginger, a teaspoonful of salt, and 
 the juice of a lemon: rub this into the 
 meat ; cut up two onions in slices, and fry 
 them in a quarter of a pound of butter. 
 When brown take them out and put in the 
 meat ; let them stew together. Have one 
 pound of rice half boiled hi broth ; put the 
 whole meat, &c., into a jar. with half a 
 pint of milk, some whole peppercorns, half 
 a dozen cloves, and a little more salt. Se- 
 cure the mouth of the jar, and bake it un- 
 til done enough, adding a little broth, 
 should the butter and milk not be suffi- 
 cient to moisten it. 
 
 1030. TO CEISP PAESLET. 
 
 Pick some bunches of young parsley, 
 wash them, and swing them in a cloth to 
 dry ; put them on a sheet of paper in a 
 toaster before the fire, and keep them 
 frequently turned, till they are quite 
 crisp, which will be in about six or eight 
 minutes. 
 
 24 
 
 1031. TO FEY PAESLET. 
 
 When the parsley has been washed and 
 thoroughly dried, throw it into lard or 
 butter which is on the point of boiling ; 
 take it up with a slice the instant it is 
 crisp, and lay it on a paper on a sieve 
 before the fire. A wire basket is the 
 nicest thing to use for frying parsley, or 
 any thing requiring to be fried. 
 
 1032. FEIED BEEAD FOE GAENISHING. 
 
 Take slices of stale bread about a third 
 of an inch thick, cut them into shapes 
 with a paste-cutter, fry them in fresh 
 butter a light brown, lay them upon a 
 cloth to dry, and place them round the 
 dish. They may be made to adhere by 
 brushing the under part with a little flour 
 mixed with white of egg. 
 
 Bread crumbs. All game and small 
 birds are improved by the addition of 
 bread crumbs, either fried or toasted ; 
 the latter is the more delicate prepara- 
 tion : grate the crumbs, and put them 
 into a tin shallow dish before the fire, 
 shaking them occasionally, until they are 
 well browned : send them up in the dish ; 
 with a tureen of good brown gravy made 
 from the insides and trimmings of the 
 birds, but without any kind of season- 
 ing. 
 
 1038. RABBITS, TO SKIN, &c. 
 
 Cut round the skin at the first joint 
 of the hind legs, and pull the skin up a 
 little, then run the knife between the 
 sinew and the bone of the leg, so as to 
 make a hole to hang- it on a nail in a 
 wall, with the head downwards ; run a 
 knife along the skin inside the thigh as 
 far as the tail, so as to cut it, then run 
 the hand under the skin, and it will 
 easily separate from the body ; pull it 
 down towards the head, taking care not 
 to tear the belly : when you have arriv- 
 ed as far as the head, pull up the fore 
 legs, cutting the feet off at the first joint ; 
 then pull up the ears by running a 
 
374 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 skewer between the skin and the head, 
 and pull the skin off, cutting the nose 
 and lips ; remove it from the nail, cut off 
 the hind feet at the first joint ; cut open 
 the body, remove the inside, reserve the 
 liver, heart, and kidneys, and throw away 
 the remainder ; wash out the inside. If 
 for roasting, make the following stuffing : 
 take the liver, heart, and kidneys, blanch 
 them, put them into a fryingpan with a 
 little fat, and one small onion chopped 
 up ; saute a little, then remove and chop 
 them up with two ounces of pork fat or 
 bacon, a little parsley, and mix with 
 bread crumbs and the yolk of an egg ; 
 stuff and sew up the belly. Truss as 
 follows: bring the hind and fore legs 
 close to the body towards the head, run 
 a skewer through each, then run a skew- 
 er in at the mouth and through the neck, 
 to keep it upright ; it should be exactly 
 as if it was sitting* Put a string round 
 the body from skewer to skewer, and it 
 is ready. 
 
 1034. THE HAUNCH. 
 
 " The observed of all observers " when 
 epicureans sit at table ; it is a joint, if 
 properly kept, properly cooked and 
 served hot, which must prove delicious^ 
 The delicacy of its flavor is obtained by 
 hanging only: if it be cooked while 
 fresh, it will not equal in any respect a 
 haunch of mutton. 
 
 The haunch of venison, when about to 
 be roasted, should be washed in warm 
 milk and water, and dried with a clean 
 cloth ; if it has hung very long and the 
 skin smells musty, it will be the safest 
 plan to remove the skin and wrap the 
 whole of the haunch in paper well greas- 
 ed with fresh butter ; during the time it 
 is at the fire, do not be afraid of basting 
 it too much. If it be a buck haunch and 
 
 large, it will take nearly four hours 
 within five or ten minutes ; if compara- 
 tively small, three hours and a half will 
 suffice ; if a doe haunch, three hours and 
 a quarter will be enough. 
 
 All venison for roasting should have a 
 paste made of lard over it ; after first 
 having papered the meat with buttered 
 paper, then your stiff paste upon the top 
 of that, either dangle it or put it in a 
 cradle spit; a few minutes before you 
 require to take it up take off the paste 
 and paper, baste it with some butter, 
 salt it and flour it, when done give it a 
 few more turns round,- send it up very 
 hot ; your dish and gravy is to be very 
 hot also ; any dry pieces and the shank 
 you will boil down with a little brown 
 stock for the gravy ; send currant jelly 
 in a boat, and French beans in a vege- 
 table dish. 
 
 1035. VENISON STEAKS. 
 Cut them from the neck ; season them 
 with pepper and salt. When the gridi- 
 ron has been well heated over a bed of 
 bright coals, grease the bars, and lay the 
 steaks upon it. Broil them well, turn- 
 ing them once, and taking care to save as 
 much of the gravy as possible. Serve 
 them up with some currant jelly laid on 
 each steak. 
 
 1036.-TO HASH VENISON. 
 
 Carve your venison into slices: let 
 them be thin, and put them in a stewpan 
 with two small glasses of port wine: 
 add a spoonful of browning, one of ketch- 
 up, an onion stuck with cloves, and half 
 an anchovy chopped small, let it boil, 
 then put in your venison, make it thor- 
 oughly hot through. Lay sippets of 
 toast, in various shapes in a soup dish, 
 pour the hash upon it, and serve with 
 currant jelly. 
 
 1037. VENISON FKIED. 
 
 Cut the meat into slices } fry a light 
 brown, and keep hot before the fire. 
 
GAME. 
 
 375 
 
 Make gravy of the bones and any trim- 
 mings, add a little floured butter, and 
 stir until it is thick and brown, then add 
 lemon-juice and port wine to taste, with 
 pepper or cayenne. Warm the venison 
 in the gravy, place in a dish, and strain 
 the gravy over it. Serve with currant 
 jelly in a glass. 
 
 1038. A SHOULDEE OF VENISON STEWED. 
 
 If you should have a very lean shoul- 
 der, stew it in preference to roasting ; 
 bone it, cover it with slices of mutton 
 fat, which sometimes are first steeped in 
 port to give a richer flavor, roll it up and 
 bind it tightly. Lay it in a stewpan 
 with a quantity of beef gravy, and the 
 bones you have taken from the venison, 
 add two glasses of port, a dessert-spoon- 
 ful of whole pepper, and the same quan- 
 tity of allspice. Cover down closely, 
 and simmer until the venison is tender, 
 take it out and remove the fat, thicken 
 the gravy with flour and butter, and 
 strain it over the meat. 
 
 1039.-EOAST SHOULDEK OP VENISON. 
 
 Take the bones out of a shoulder of 
 venison. Fill the cavity with the fat of 
 a loin of mutton. Roast before a quick 
 fire, basting it constantly with the drip- 
 pings and a little port wine. It should 
 be served underdone with a sauce of 
 port wine, currant jelly and red pepper. 
 
 The neck and shoulder, as together 
 they may be termed the haunch joint, 
 may be dressed exactly like the haunch, 
 covered with a thin paste, and greased 
 paper over that. 
 
 GAME ought not to be thrown away even 
 when it has been kept a very long time ; 
 for when it seems to be spoiled, it may 
 often be made fit for eating by nicely 
 cleaning it, and washing with vinegar 
 
 and water. If there is danger of birds 
 not keeping, draw, crop, and pick them ; 
 then wash in two or three waters, and 
 rub them with salt. Have ready a large 
 saucepan of boiling water, and plunge 
 them into it one by one, drawing them 
 up and down by the legs, that the water 
 may pass through them. Let them stay 
 five or six minutes in ; then hang them 
 up in a cold place. When drained, pep- 
 per and salt the inside well. By this 
 method the most delicate birds may be 
 preserved. Before roasting, wash them 
 well. But, as a rule, no game should be 
 washed, for one-half the game that is 
 sent to table is spoiled by being satu- 
 rated with water. 
 
 In dressing Game be careful to keep a 
 clear fire. Let it be done of a bright 
 brown, but not much roasted, or the fine 
 flavor will be destroyed. It requires to 
 be continually basted, and to be sent up 
 beautifully frothed. Wild-fowl take a 
 much shorter time than domestic poul- 
 try. 
 
 1040. TO DEESS A FAWN OE KID. 
 
 They should be dressed as quickly af- 
 ter being killed as it is convenient. If 
 they are full grown they should be roast- 
 ed in quarters, but if very young may 
 be dressed, trussed, and stuffed exactly 
 as a hare ; the quarters will be improved 
 in flavor when the fawn is full grown, if 
 they are covered with fat bacon, and 
 basted as venison; serve venison sauce 
 with it. 
 
 1041. PHEASANTS. (English receipt.) 
 
 Pheasants are rarely stuffed, it is more 
 customary to send them to table accom- 
 panied by forcemeat in the dish, in many 
 cases with the simple gravy only; the 
 real epicurean in game prefers the flavor 
 of the bird uncontaminated by any ac- 
 cessories save those which just assist to 
 
376 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 remove the dryness common to most 
 game. Pheasants are sometimes larded, 
 but as the flavor is entirely disguised by 
 the taste of the bacon, incorporated 
 with the flesh of the fowl, unless it is 
 done more for appearance than palate, 
 we would not advise it. 
 
 In dressing the pheasant it should be 
 drawn and cleaned as other game and 
 trussed, should be roasted before a clear, 
 not a fierce fire, and will take forty min- 
 utes j it must not be done too' much, but 
 must not on any account be sent to table 
 underdone. 
 
 1041. WOODCOCK, SNIPE, ETC. 
 
 To roast these birds, put them on a 
 little spit, take a slice of wheaten bread, 
 and toast it brown, then lay it on a dish 
 under the birds ; baste them with a little 
 butter, and let the trail drop on the 
 toast. When they are roasted, put the 
 toast in the dish, lay the woodcocks on 
 it, and have a quarter of a pint of 
 gravy ; pour it in a dish, and set it over 
 a lamp or chafing-dish for three minutes ; 
 and send them to table. Epicures say 
 you should never take any thing out of 
 a woodcock or snipe. The head of the 
 woodcock is considered a great delicacy. 
 
 To roast pheasants, partridges, quails, 
 and other small birds, pick and draw 
 them immediately after they are brought 
 in. If they are of a nature to be im- 
 proved by it, lard them with small slips 
 of the fat of bacon drawn through the 
 flesh with a larding-needle. 
 
 To roast reed-Urds or ortolans, put into 
 every bird an oyster, or a little butter 
 mixed with some finely sifted bread- 
 crumbs. Dredge them with flour. Run 
 a small skewer through them, and tie 
 them on the spit. Baste them with lard 
 or with fresh butter. They will be done 
 in about ten minutes. Reed-birds are 
 very fine made into little dumplings with 
 a thin crust of flour and butter, and boil- 
 
 ed about twenty minutes. Each must 
 be tied in a separate cloth. 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 The fresher all green vegetables are 
 used after being taken from the ground 
 the better ; and therefore nothing can 
 be comparable to cutting them from your 
 own garden ; but, when purchased in the 
 market, care should be taken that those 
 of the cabbage tribe should appear crisp 
 and vividly green : not too small, nor yet 
 overgrown in size. 
 
 When about to be used, the outer 
 leaves should be stripped, the stalks cut 
 short, and the vegetable immersed for an 
 hour or two in cold water, into which 
 should be put a handful of salt for the 
 purpose of thoroughly cleansing it from 
 slugs, and those insects with which the 
 leaves are commonly infested. All green 
 vegetables should be put into boiling 
 water. Never boil any species of greens 
 with meat. Boil them in plenty of pure 
 water, with salt, to which a little vinegar 
 may be added with advantage; do not 
 cover the saucepan, but keep up a steady 
 fire, so that they shall not be allowed to 
 stop boiling until thoroughly done : drain 
 them instantly, for if overboiled they 
 lose their flavor and become insipid ; 
 they should be well done, for if that be 
 neglected for the purpose of preserving 
 their crispness, they will be rendered in- 
 digestible. 
 
 Hard water spoils the color of such 
 vegetables as should be green, but a very 
 small bit of soda or carbonate of am 
 monia will soften it, and even improve 
 their brightness. The practice of putting 
 pear lash in the pot to improve their 
 color, should be strictly forbidden, as it 
 mparts an unpleasant flavor ; as will also 
 soda if not cautiously used. 
 
POTATOES. 
 
 377 
 
 1042. POTATOES 
 
 Require no attention for the preserva- 
 tion of their color, but their flavor will 
 be spoiled if their dressing be not attend- 
 ed to, which, although of the most 
 simple nature, is frequently ill performed. 
 The best mode of doing it is to sort 
 the potatoes, and choose them of an 
 equal size ; wash them with a scrubbing- 
 brush, and put them into cold water suf- 
 ficient to cover them, and no more. 
 About ten minutes after .the water has 
 come to a boil, take out the half of it, 
 and replace with cold water, to check it ; 
 the reason assigned for which is, " that 
 the cold water sends the heat from the 
 surface to the heart, and makes the po- 
 tatoes mealy." Then throw in a large 
 handful of salt, leave the pot uncovered, 
 and let it remain upon the fire to simmer 
 until the potatoes are done ; this is the 
 moment to be watched, for if overboiled, 
 they will become waxy. The cook 
 .should, therefore, occasionally try them, 
 by piercing them to the heart with a 
 fork, and, when they are tender, the pot 
 should be instantly taken off the fire, 
 and the potatoes passed through a colan- 
 der to drain ; which being done, and the 
 water thrown out, they should then be 
 replaced upon a folded flannel, in the 
 same pot, which should be left by the 
 side of the fire to keep hot and to cause 
 the evaporation of the steam. "When 
 served, they should be wrapped in a 
 warmed cotton napkin. If of moderate 
 size they will take about half an hour 
 boiling, to which fifteen minutes must be 
 added for evaporation, ere they can be 
 sent to table. 
 
 Potato Steamer and Saucepan. 
 
 An iron pot is the best vessel for boil- 
 ing potatoes in, since, after the water has 
 been poured off, it retains sufficient heat 
 to dry them thoroughly* 
 
 A good and economical mode of 
 dressing potatoes, when soup, meat, or 
 other eatables are to be boiled, is to have 
 a tin strainer fitted to the mouth of the 
 saucepan, so as to allow the steam to as- 
 cend from the boiler. 
 
 Notwithstanding the directions here 
 given for cooking potatoes^ there is a 
 point, on which there exists a difference of 
 opinion, that is respecting the peeling 
 of the roots, whether before or after their 
 being boiled ? 
 
 In Lancashire, England, where they aro 
 largely grown and admirably boiled, they 
 are first peeled ; while in Ireland they 
 are invariably brought to table "with 
 their jackets on." Count Eumford also 
 recommends their being boiled in their 
 skins; the cuisinier Bourgeois likewise 
 thinks that " les pommes des terre sont 
 meuilleures en robe de chambre" 
 
 1048. TO KEEP POTATOES. 
 
 Buy them as dug from the ground, 
 without taking off the earth which ad- 
 heres to them, and never wash them un- 
 til wanted to be dressed. Place them in 
 a dry cellar, upon straw, and cover them 
 in winter with straw or mats, to guard 
 them from the frost. 
 
 1044 NEW POTATOES 
 
 Should be dressed as soon as possible 
 after being taken from the ground, and 
 are always best when grown in frames. 
 When washed, they should be rubbed 
 with a coarse cloth, and a little salt to 
 take off the thin outer skin, but they 
 should not be peeled. Put them into 
 boiling water j they will require but a few 
 minutes to do them j send them to table 
 in a hot napkin, unless covered with white 
 sauce, which should be seasoned with a 
 
378 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 little salt and a slight grating of nutmeg. 
 "When quite young they should never be 
 sliced nor fried. 
 
 .1046. POTATO FLOUB. 
 
 Rasp the potatoes into a tub of cold 
 water, and change it repeatedly until the 
 raspings fall to the bottom like a paste ; 
 then dry it in the air, pound it in a mor- 
 tar, and pass it through a hair sieve. It 
 is nearly as nutritive, and much lighter 
 than wheaten flour; it is, therefore, 
 preferable for making puddings and 
 pastry for infants and invalids ; a portion 
 of it also improves the appearance of 
 household bread, and dealers constantly 
 pass it off as arrowroot. If kept dry, it 
 will remain good for years. 
 
 Jelly is made from the flour; only 
 boiling water must be poured upon it, 
 but care must be taken that it be ab- 
 solutely boiling or the complete change 
 into jelly will not take place. It does 
 not take many minutes to thus change a 
 raw potato into this substance, which is 
 not only highly nutritive, but extremely 
 agreeable to the palate, when flavored 
 with a little sugar, nutmeg, and white 
 
 1046. POTATO-WALL 
 Or edging, to serve round fricassees, 
 forms also a pretty addition to a corner 
 dish. Mash in a mortar as many boiled 
 potatoes as you may want, with a good 
 piece of butter ; then, with the bowls of 
 two silver spoons, raise a wall of it two 
 and a half inches high within the rim 
 of the dish to be used. Let the upper 
 part be a little thinner than the lower ; 
 smooth it ; and, after brushing it all over 
 with egg, put it into the oven to become 
 hot and a little colored. Before egging 
 it, the outside may be ornamented with 
 bits of paste cut into shapes. 
 
 104T. TO MASH POTATOES. 
 
 Let them be thoroughly boiled ; peel 
 
 them, and take out all the specks, and 
 little hard lumps which are sometimes 
 found. Beat them till quite fine in a 
 wooden bowl or mortar, or break them 
 thoroughly with a three -pronged fork ; 
 sprinkle a little salt, and mix them up 
 smoothly with butter or boiling milk. 
 Take care that the potatoes shall not be 
 too wet, or they will become heavy and 
 watery ; great smoothness, lightness, and 
 a rich taste are required hi mashed pota- 
 toes : if required to be very fine, rub 
 them through a colander or sieve before 
 adding the boiling milk and butter. 
 
 (Potato Masher.) 
 1048. POTATO-LOAYES 
 
 Are very nice when eaten with roast 
 beef or mutton, and are made of any por- 
 tion of the mashed roots, prepared with- 
 out milk, by mixing with them a good 
 quantity of very finely minced raw 
 shalot, powdered with pepper and salt ; 
 then beating up the whole with a little 
 butter to bind it, and dividing it into 
 small loaves of a conical form, and pla- 
 cing them under the meat to brown, that 
 is, when it is so nearly done as to impart 
 some of the gravy along with the fat. 
 
 1049. TO BEOWN POTATOES. 
 
 While the meat is roasting, and an hour 
 before it is served, boil the potatoes and 
 take off the skins ; flour them well, and 
 put them under the meat, taking care to 
 dry them from the dripping, before they 
 are sent to table. The kidney potatoes 
 are best dressed in this way. The flour- 
 ing is very essential. 
 
 Potatoes^ when boiled, if either waxy, 
 or to be eaten with cold meat should be 
 peeled and put whole upon the gridiron 
 until nicely browned. 
 
POTATOES. 
 
 379 
 
 Potatoes should always be lolled a 
 little before being put into stews, &c., as 
 the first water in which they are cooked 
 is of a poisonous quality. 
 
 Fried Potatoes may be cut from raw 
 potatoes, pared round and round like an 
 apple ; cut them in slices one half inch 
 thick ; fry quickly, in plenty of hot fat, 
 and with as little color as possible ; dry 
 them well from the grease, and sprinkle 
 with salt. When nicely done and piled 
 up properly, fried potatoes make a 
 beautiful side dish, which ia always eaten 
 with great relish. 
 
 1050.-POTATO EISSOLE8. 
 
 Boil the potatoes floury ; mash them, 
 seasoning with salt and a little cayenne j 
 mince parsley very finely and work up 
 with the potatoes, adding eschalot also 
 chopped small ; bind with yolk of egg j 
 roll into balls and fry with fresh butter 
 over a clear fire. Meat shred finely, ba- 
 con or ham may be added. 
 
 1051.-POTATO SOUFFLE. 
 
 Take any number of large potatoes, 
 the less eyes and the firmer the skin the 
 better. Clean them thoroughly and 
 then bake them ; after which cut out a 
 round piece, not quite so large as a half- 
 crown, out of each potato, and remove 
 as much of the inside as can be obtained 
 without damage to the skin. Mash the 
 potatoes with cream, adding a little but- 
 ter, sprinkle over a little salt, and put to 
 it half a pint of good milk ; give it all a 
 boil ; take the white of three eggs, whip 
 them until they froth, add them to the 
 potatoes while they boil, and then make 
 the potatoes into a paste j return them 
 through the orifice in the skin of the po- 
 tato until each skin is full j bake them, 
 and serve. 
 
 1052 POTATOES A LA MAlTEE D'H6TEL. 
 
 Boil the potatoesj before they are 
 
 quite done take them up, place them 
 aside, and let them get cold ; cut them 
 in slices of a mo'derate thickness ; place 
 in a stewpan a lump of fresh butter, and 
 a teaspoonful of flour ; let the butter 
 boil, and add a teacupful of broth ; let 
 it boil and add the potatoes, which you 
 have covered with parsley, chopped fine, 
 and seasoned with pepper and salt ; stew 
 them five minutes, remove them from the 
 fire ; beat up the yolk of one egg with 
 a table-spoonful of cold' water and a lit- 
 tle lemon-juice. The sauce will set, then 
 dish up the potatoes and serve. 
 
 Or, Cold potatoes that have been 
 boiled should be used for this purpose. 
 Lay them in a frying pan with sufficient 
 milk (or cream) to cover them, add a 
 little butter, salt, and chopped parsley, 
 and fry them until the milk thickens. 
 They will be sufficiently cooked in a 
 quarter of an hour, and make an excel- 
 lent dish for breakfast. 
 
 To Boast. Glenn thoroughly ; nick a 
 small piece out of the skin, and roast in 
 the oven of the range ; a little butter *is 
 sometimes rubbed over the skin to make 
 them crisp. 
 
 1053. POTATO OMELETTE. 
 
 May be made with a mashed potato or 
 two ounces of potato-flour and four eggs ? 
 and seasoned with pepper, salt, and a lit- 
 tle nutmeg. It should be made thick, 
 and, being rather "substantial, a squeeze 
 of lemon will improve it. Fry a light 
 brown. 
 
 1054. BISCUITS OF POTATOES AND POTA- 
 TO FLOUE. (French.) 
 
 Take, fifteen fresh eggs, break the 
 yolks into one pan and the whites into 
 another. Beat the yolks with a pound 
 of sugar pounded very fine, scrape the 
 peel of a lemon with a lump of sugar, 
 dry that, and pound it fine also ; then 
 throw into it the yolks, and work the 
 
380 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 eggs and sugar till they are of a whitish 
 color. Next, whip the whites well and 
 mix them with the yolks. Now sift half 
 a pound of flour of potatoes through a 
 silk sieve, over the eggs and sugar. Have 
 some paper cases ready, which lay on a 
 plafond, with some paper underneath. 
 Fill the cases, but not too full ; glaze the 
 contents with some rather coarse sugar, 
 and bake the whole in an oven mode- 
 rately heated. 
 
 Julienne Mill 
 1055. GEEEN PEAS. 
 
 A delicious vegetable, a grateful ac- 
 cessory to many dishes of a more sub- 
 stantial nature. Green peas should be 
 sent to table green ; no dish looks less 
 tempting than peas if they wear an au- 
 tumnal aspect. Peas should also be 
 young, and as short a time as possible 
 should be suffered to elapse between the 
 periods of shelling and boiling. If it is a 
 matter of consequence to send them to 
 table in perfection, these rules must be 
 strictly observed. They should be as 
 near of a size as a discriminating eye can 
 arrange them ; they should then be put 
 in a culjender, and some cold water suf- 
 fered to run through them in order to 
 wash them; then having the water in 
 which they are to be boiled slightly salt- 
 ed, and boiling rapidly, pour in the peas ; 
 keep the saucepan uncovered, and keep 
 them boiling swiftly until tender ; they 
 will take about twenty minutes, barely 
 so long, unless older than they should 
 
 be ; drain completely, pour them into the 
 tureen in which they are to be served, 
 and in the centre put a slice of butter, 
 and when it has melted stir round the 
 peas gently, adding pepper and salt; 
 serve as quickly and as hot as possible. 
 
 It is commonly a practice to boil mint 
 with the peas ; this, however, is very re- 
 pugnant to many palates, and as it may 
 easily be added if agreeable to the pal- 
 ate, it should not be dressed with the 
 peas, although it may accompany them 
 to table for those who may desire the 
 flavor. 
 
 1056. TO DEESS SPANISH ONIONS. 
 
 Take off two skins, be particular in 
 not cutting the stalk on the root of the 
 onion too much away, if you do, when 
 done it will drop to pieces. Take four 
 large onions, put them in a stewpan suf- 
 ficiently large, so that they may not 
 touch each other, put in a small piece of 
 lean York ham and a quarter of a pound 
 of salt butter, cover them close, put them 
 on a slow stove or oven, keeping them 
 turned carefully until all sides are pro- 
 perly done : they will take about two 
 hours : then take them up and glaze 
 them, thicken the gravy, and season 
 with pepper and salt. 
 
 105T. SALSIFY AND SCOEZANEEA. 
 
 Blanch several heads until the skin 
 will peel off; when you have done that, 
 cut them all in equal lengths ; if to be 
 done in batter, dry them in bread-crumbs, 
 if for sauce make them hot in a little 
 veal stock, dish them, and pour a good 
 white or brown sauce over them. 
 
 1058. ASPAEAGUS. 
 
 Great attention is necessary to boil as- 
 paragus. It must be carefully washed 
 and cleaned, the horny part must be cut 
 away, leaving only enough to take it up 
 with the fingers. After the white horny 
 
ASPARAGUS EGG-PLANT. 
 
 381 
 
 part has been well scraped, cut them all 
 off at one length and tie them up in sepa- 
 rate bundles ; lay them in boiling water 
 with a little salt. Boil them briskly, 
 and they are done enough when tender. 
 Dip a round of toasted bread in the 
 liquor, and lay it in the dish ; then pour 
 some melted butter over the toast, and 
 lay the asparagus on the toast entirely 
 round the dish. Serve with melted but- 
 ter in a sauce-tureen. 
 | 
 1069. ASPAEAGUS LOAVES. 
 
 Boil three bunches of asparagus ; cut 
 off the tops of two bunches when ten- 
 der, leaving two inches of the white 
 stalk on the rest, and keeping it warm ; 
 stew the tops in a pint of new milk, 
 with three table-spoonfuls of butter, 
 rubbed in flour, the yolks of three eggs, 
 nutmeg and mace ; when it boils put the 
 mixture into loaves of rolls, with the 
 crumb scooped out ; put on the tops of 
 the rolls ; make holes hi the tops, and 
 stick in the remaining asparagus. ' 
 
 1060. A8PAEAGUS FOECED. 
 
 Scoop out the crumb of three or four 
 French rolls, preserving the piece cut 
 from the top, which will have to be fitted 
 on to the part it was cut from ; put into 
 a pan with some fresh butter, the rolls, 
 and fry them brown, beat up with a pint 
 of cream, the yolks of six eggs, flavor 
 with some grated nutmeg and a little 
 salt, put it into a stewpan, and over a 
 slow fire ; let it gradually thicken, stir- 
 ring it. all the time. 
 
 Have ready the tops of a bundle of 
 asparagus, say a hundred, and having 
 boiled them tender, put them into the 
 cream and fill the rolls with the mix- 
 ture, reserving a few tops to stick in 
 each roll by way of garnish. 
 
 1061. ASPEEGE EN PETIT POIS, OE AS- 
 PAEAGUS PEAS. 
 
 If the asparagus be properly dressed, 
 
 it should taste like green peas. Take 
 some young asparagus, which pick with 
 great care; then cut them into small 
 equal pieces, avoiding to put in such 
 parts as are hard or tough. Wash them 
 in several waters, and throw them into 
 boiling water, with a little salt. When 
 the asparagus are nearly done, drain 
 them first through a sieve, and next 
 wipe them quite dry with a towel. Then 
 put them into a stewpan with a small bit 
 of butter, a bunch of parsley and green 
 onions, and toss them in the stewpan 
 over the fire for ten minutes. Now add 
 a little flour and a small lump of sugar, 
 and moisten with boiling water. They 
 must boil over a large fire. When well 
 reduced, take out the parsley and green 
 onions, and thicken with the yolks of 
 two eggs beaten with a little cream and 
 a little salt : remember that in this en- 
 trem^t sugar must predominate, and that 
 there is to be no sauce. Asparagus are 
 always to be dressed in this manner 
 when to be served in the second course ; 
 but for first course dishes, throw them 
 into some good sauce tournee, well re- 
 duced. Boil them a few times over a 
 large fire, then powder a little sugar, and 
 make a thickening of one egg. The 
 sauce must be made thick; on account of 
 the asparagus always yielding a certain 
 quantity of water, which will thin the 
 sauce. 
 
 1062. EGG PLANT. 
 
 Cut the egg plant in slices half 
 an inch thick, and let it lie for several 
 hours in salted water, to remove the bit- 
 ter taste. To fry it put the slices in the 
 frying-pan with a small quantity of but- 
 ter, and turn them when one side is done. 
 Be sure that they are thoroughly cooked. 
 Stuffed egg plant is sometimes preferred 
 to fried. Peel the plant whole, cut it in 
 two. and let it lies in salted water. Then 
 scoop out the inside of the plant, chop it 
 up fine, mixing crumbs of bread, salt and 
 
382 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 butter with it ; fry it, return it to the 
 hollow egg plant, join the cut pieces to- 
 gether, and let them bake awhile in an 
 oven. The best way of cooking is to 
 slice them, dip the slices into egg and 
 bread-crumbs, and fry very brown in 
 butter or lard. 
 
 1063.-SALSIFY OR OYSTER PLANT. 
 
 Scrape the salsify, cut it in long slips 
 and parboil it, then chop it up fine and 
 fry it with egg batter. 
 
 It is sometimes served with the roots 
 whole, having been first thoroughly boil- 
 ed and then fried hi egg batter. 
 
 ' 1064. CAULIFLOWER DRESSED LIKE 
 MACCARONI. 
 
 Boil a cauliflower in milk and water, 
 with a little butter, half an hour, skim- 
 mi ag well; when tender, drain, and di- 
 vide it small ; put a quarter of a pound 
 of butter, half as much grated cheese, 
 half I gill of milk, in a pan 'to boil up, 
 and put in the sprigs of cauliflower 
 stew five minutes; then put it into a 
 dish, grate over it as much more cheese, 
 and brown it with a shovel. 
 
 To dress Cauliflowers, separate the 
 green part, and cut the flower close to 
 the bottom from the stalk ; let it soak 
 an hour in clear cold water, and then lay 
 it in boiling milk and water, or water 
 alone, observing to skim it well. When 
 the flower or stalk feels tender, it is done 
 enough, and should be instantly taken 
 up. Drain it for a minute, and serve it 
 up in a dish by itself, with plain melted 
 butter in a sauce-tureen. 
 
 1065 -SPINACH. 
 
 Pick it clean, and wash it in five or 
 six waters. Drain it, and put it in boil- 
 ing water. Ten minutes is generally suf- 
 ficient tune to boil spinach. Be careful 
 to remove the scum. When it is quite 
 tender take it up, and drain and squeeze 
 it well. Chop it fine, and put it into a 
 
 saucepan with a piece of butter and a 
 little pepper and salt. Set it on hot 
 coals, and let it stew five minutes, stir- 
 ring it all the time. 
 
 1066. TURNIPS. 
 
 White turnips require about as much 
 boiling as potatoes. When tender, take 
 them up, peel and mash them season 
 them with a little salt and butter. Yel- 
 low turnips require about two x hours 
 boiling if very large, split them in two. 
 The tops of white turnips make a good 
 salad. 
 
 1067. BEETS. 
 
 Beets should not be cut or scraped be- 
 fore they are boiled, or the juice will run 
 out, and make them insipid. In summer 
 they will boil in an hour in winter, it 
 takes three hours to boil them tender. 
 The tops in summer are good boiled for 
 greens. Boiled beets cut in slices, and 
 put in cold spiced venegar for several 
 days, are very nice. 
 
 1068. PARSNIPS AND CARROTS. 
 
 Wash them, and split them in two 
 lay them in a stewpan, with the flat side 
 down,- turn on boiling water enough to 
 cover them boil them till tender, then 
 take them up, and take off the skin, and 
 butter them. Many cooks boil them 
 whole, but it is not a good plan, as the 
 outside gets done too much, before the 
 inside is cooked sufficiently. Cold boil- 
 ed parsnips are good, cut in slices and 
 fried brown. 
 
 1069.-SEA-KALE 
 
 Requires to be very well done ; there is 
 little occasion to fear doing it too much ; 
 tie in bundles after washing and trim- 
 ming, boil it in equal parts of milk and 
 water, and serve it with melted butter. 
 
 It may be laid on toast or not, accord- 
 ing to taste. 
 
VEGETABLES. * 
 
 383 
 
 After being well boiled it must be 
 thoroughly drained before laying upon 
 the toast ; five-and-twenty minutes will 
 be found sufficient to boil it. Or, after 
 being drained, it can be put in a stewpan 
 and stewed in a rich gravy. 
 
 1070. TO STEW CELEET. 
 
 Wash the heads, and strip off their 
 outer leaves ; either halve or leave them 
 whole, according to their size, and cut 
 them into length of four inches. Put 
 into a stewpan with a cup of broth or 
 weak white gravy; stew till tender; 
 then add two spoonfuls of cream, a little 
 flour and butter, seasoned with pepper, 
 salt, nutmeg, and a little pounded white 
 sugar ; and simmer all together. 
 
 Or: Parboil it, cut it into quarters, 
 fry it, and serve it on a napkin, or with 
 beef gravy. 
 
 Celery is a great improvement to all 
 soups and gravies, and much used as a 
 white sauce, either alone or with oys- 
 ters; 
 
 1071. SAUEE KEAUT, 
 
 Or Sour-Kraut, is a German prepara- 
 tion of cabbage, fermented in layers, be- 
 tween which salt is laid, and the whole 
 pressed closely down with weights for a 
 few days, at the end of which it becomes 
 acid, and the greater part of the juice, is 
 drawn off. 
 
 In preparing it, the outward leaves 
 and the stalk are removed, the latter 
 being sliced, and the whole cabbage cut 
 into small pieces, which are pressed 
 heavily down, and placed in barrels in a 
 warm cellar until the fermentation is 
 over: when that is complete, put the 
 kraut into a cool place, and it will re- 
 main good for years. Some people think 
 it improved by a mixture among the 
 layers of caraway, whole pepper, and 
 juniper-berries, or to have the barrels 
 smoked with the latter. 
 
 It is extensively used throughout the 
 
 northern parts of Europe, as a pleasant 
 vegetable, particularly with salted meats 
 and sausages; and is considered so ex- 
 cellent an antiscorbutic that it is largely 
 employed in our navy. It requires 
 nothing but care in the making; and, 
 when properly prepared, may be served 
 at any gentleman's table. Boil it for 
 two hours, and skim the water; or 
 change the water for gravy, and stew it. 
 
 1072. TO SEEVE SOUE-KEAUT. 
 
 Take out as much sour-kraut as you 
 wish from the cask, and soak it for at 
 least two hours in cold water, then take 
 it into a colander to drain ; put it into 
 a large stewpan or dinner-pot, put on it 
 a piece of corned pork or bacon, and put 
 hot water over nearly to cover it ; cover 
 the pot and set it over a moderate fire 
 for an hour or more until the pork is 
 done. Serve with the meat on it. Or 
 cujt the bacon or pork in slices, strew 
 pepper over them; lay the sour-kraut 
 on, put hot water nearly to cover it, 
 cover the pot close and set it over a 
 moderate fire for an hour and a half. 
 Or it may be boiled with water, and fried 
 sausages put over it and served ; or the 
 sausages may be boiled with it, and the 
 skins taken off, before serving. 
 
 1073. AETICHOKES. 
 
 Cut away the outside leaves and make 
 the stalk as even as possible, put them 
 into boiling water with some salt ; if they 
 are very young they will be tender in 
 half an hour, if rather old they will re- 
 quire an hour before they are thoroughly 
 tender ; drain and trim the points of the 
 leaves, serve with melted butter. 
 
 They are better for being kept two or 
 three days. 
 
 The bottoms are sometimes added to 
 ragouts or meat pies. 
 
 If dried you must soak them well for 
 some time, then stew them in some good 
 
384: 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 second stock until tender ; take up the 
 artichokes and reduce the stock, add to 
 it a little brown sauce seasoned with 
 pepper, salt, and sugar, a few green peas 
 in the middle of each or alternately, some 
 scooped turnips boiled, and put into each ; 
 glaze the artichokes before you add 
 those to them ; sauce in the dish. 
 
 For Salad. The artichokes should be 
 very young, the choke having scarcely 
 formed, clean them and let them soak 
 thoroughly, drain them, take off the 
 stalks close and even, and send them to 
 table with the vegetables to form the 
 salad. This is a favorite mode in Paris 
 of dressing them. 
 
 1074. JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES. 
 
 Pare them after being well washed, 
 very smooth and of some kind of shape, 
 boil them in milk and water, pay great 
 attention to them, as, if not taken up the 
 minute they are soft, they will break ; they 
 are served up with various kinds of 
 sauces, white and brown, or fried in but- 
 ter, and dished upon a napkin with fried 
 parsley. 
 
 1075. FBENCH BEANS. 
 
 When very young the ends and stalks 
 only should be removed, and as they are 
 done thrown into cold spring water j 
 when to be dressed put them in boiling 
 water which has been salted with a 
 small quantity of common salt; in a 
 quarter of an hour they will be done ; the 
 criterion is when they become tender; 
 the saucepan should be left uncovered, 
 there should not be too much water, and 
 they should be kept boiling rapidly. 
 
 When they are at their full growth, 
 the ends and strings should be taken off 
 and the bean divided lengthways and 
 across, or according to the present fashion 
 slit diagonally or aslant. 
 
 A small piece of soda, a little larger 
 than a good-sized pea, if put into the 
 
 boiling water with the beans, or with any 
 vegetables, will preserve that beautiful 
 green which it is so desirable for them 
 to possess when placed upon the table. 
 
 1076. FKENCH BEANS A LA MAlTEE 
 D'HftTEL. 
 
 Prepare your beans as for boiling ; put 
 into a stewpan a piece of butter, shred 
 parsley, and green onions ; when the but- 
 ter is melted add the French beans, turn 
 them a few times over the fire, shake in 
 some flour, and moisten with a little good 
 stock well seasoned ; boil till the sauce is 
 consumed, then put in yolks of three 
 eggs, beat up with some milk, and add a 
 little vinegar. Cullis of veal gravy may 
 be used instead of the eggs. 
 
 They may be fricasseed with a teacup- 
 ful of gravy, and two spoonfuls of cream 
 thickened with butter and flour. 
 
 1077. BAKED BEANS. 
 
 Soak a quart of dried beans over night, 
 hi cold water ; drain off the water in the 
 morning and stew for half an hour in a 
 little water, put them in a deep dish, 
 with one pound of salt pork, cut the rind 
 in strips, and place in the centre of the 
 dish. The pork should be sunk a little 
 below the surface of the beans. Bake 
 for three hours and a half. A lump of 
 saleratus should be thrown in while the 
 beans are boiling, and a pint of water be 
 added, when they are put into the bake- 
 pan. 
 
 1078.-LIMA BEANS 
 
 Should be gathered young. Shell 
 them, lay them in a pan of cold water, 
 and then boil them about two hours, till 
 they are quite soft. Drain them well, 
 and add to them some butter. 
 
 1079. SUCCOTASH 
 
 Is made by boiling young lima beans 
 with green corn cut from the cob. A 
 
VEGETABLES. 
 
 385 
 
 slice of fat pork may be boiled with it, 
 ard the mixture must have a lump of 
 butter stirred in before serving. The 
 beans should be boiled before the corn is 
 added, as they take longer to cook. 
 
 10SO PONE OF SWEET POTATO. 
 
 To three pounds of sweet potatoes 
 grated, add a pound of butter and a pound 
 of sugar, with six eggs, a tea-cup of sour 
 cream or buttermilk, and "a teaspoonful 
 of soda. Bake in a buttered dish, and 
 serve hot. 
 
 1081. SQUASHES OE CYMBELINS. 
 
 Cut up the squashes in pieces of an 
 inch thick, having first pared the squash ; 
 if old, 'extract the seeds and boil the 
 pieces until they break, mash them with 
 a spoon, boil them a little longer, and 
 when they are done, squeeze them 
 through a colander. Mix them -with a 
 little salt and a small quantity of butter. 
 
 1082. WINTEE SQUASH. 
 
 Winter squashes are stewed in the 
 same manner as others, but they require 
 to remain over the fire a little longer. 
 
 If kept in a dry place, they will remain 
 good all winter j but if they are once 
 frozen, they lose their flavor, and are apt 
 to decay. 
 
 They are richer and firmer than the 
 summer kind. After paring a winter 
 squash, cut it in pieces, and, having 
 taken out the seeds, boil it till it is toler- 
 ably soft in a small quantity of water. 
 When you think it sufficiently done, 
 press out all the water, mash the squash, 
 and add a little butter, salt, and, if you 
 fancy it, pepper. 
 
 1083. SWEET COEN. 
 
 Corn is much sweeter to be boiled on 
 the cob. Put a little salt into the water, 
 and put in the corn when it is cold. It 
 
 requires boiling from fifteen to thirty 
 minutes, according to its age. 
 
 1084. GEEEN COEN PUDDING. 
 
 Twelve ears of green corn, grated, a 
 quart of milk, four ounces butter, the 
 same of sugar, four eggs beaten light. 
 Bake in a buttered dish, and eat with 
 butter and sugar sauce. The com may 
 be previously boiled, when the pudding 
 will bake more quickly. 
 
 1085. GEEEN COEN OMELET. 
 
 Grate the corn from twelve ears of corn 
 boiled, beat up five eggs, stir thorn with 
 the corn, season with pepper and salt, 
 and fry the mixture brown, browning 
 the top with a hot shovel. If fried in 
 .small cakes, with a little flour and milk 
 stirred in to form a batter, this is very 
 nice. 
 
 1086. GEEEN COEN FEITTEES. 
 Six ears of boiled corn, grated, two 
 eggs, a little milk, and just enough flour 
 to mix it. Drop a spoonful of the batter 
 into a frying-pan, and fry in butter. 
 
 1087. ONIONS. 
 
 It is a good plan to boil onions in milk 
 and water, it diminishes the strong taste 
 of that vegetable. It is an excellent way 
 of serving up onions, to chop them after 
 they are boiled", and put them in a 
 stew-pan, with a little milk, butter, salt, 
 and pepper, and let them stew about fif- 
 teen minutes. This gives them a fine 
 flavor, and they can be served up very 
 hot. 
 
 1088. TOMATOES, 
 
 If very ripe, will skin easily ; if not, 
 pour scalding water on them, and let them 
 remain in it four or five minutes. Peel 
 and put them into a stew-pan, with a 
 tablespoonful of water, if not very juicy ; 
 if so, no water will be required. Put in 
 a little salt, and stew them for half an 
 
386 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 hour ; then turn them into a deep dish 
 with buttered toast. Another way of 
 cooking them, which is considered very 
 nice by epicures, is to put them in a 
 deep dish, with fine bread crumbs, 
 crackers pounded fine, a layer of each al- 
 ternately ; put small bits of butter ; a 
 little salt and pepper on each layer 
 some cooks add a little nutmeg and sugar. 
 Have a layer of bread crumbs on the top. 
 Bake it three-quarters of an hour, 
 
 1089. SCOLLOPED TOMATOES. 
 
 Scald ripe tomatoes and peel them ; 
 put them in a dish with bread crumbs, 
 layer over layer, seasoning with salt and 
 red pepper. Have the bread crumbs on 
 the top, and bake three hours. 
 
 1090. TOMATOES, TO STUFF. 
 
 Take some fine tomatoes and scoop 
 the inside out, which should be set aside 
 until required. Chop or mince fine some 
 beef, mutton, or other fresh under-done 
 meat, mix with a little pepper, salt, and 
 a little sweet herbs ; or make a forcemeat, 
 and mix with the scoopings of the 
 tomatoes ; form into a good consistence, 
 and stuff the inside of the vegetable with 
 the mixture. Set the prepared vegetables 
 in a dish with a little lard in a slow 
 oven, and bake until tender ; then serve 
 with the liquor that exudes during the 
 process ; but if not brown enough, color 
 by means of a salamander held over the 
 top of each. 
 
 A good rich beef gravy poured over all, 
 improves the flavor very much. This is 
 the best way to dress these vegetables, 
 and serves also to make cold meat more 
 palatable, in addition to forming a pretty 
 and economical side dish. 
 
 1091. GUMBO 
 
 Two quarts fresh ochras, the same of 
 ripe tomatoes scalded and peeled; put 
 them in a pan to melt with butter, pep- 
 
 per and salt ; strain through the colan- 
 der, and dish the jelly, to eat with 
 toast. 
 
 1092. HOPPING JOHN (A CAROLINA DISH.) 
 
 This is made by boiling a kind of small 
 bean, called cowpeas at the South, with 
 an equal quantity of rice, and sending 
 them mixed and hot to the table. 
 
 1093. SPLIT-PEAS PUDDING. 
 
 Take any quantity, say one pint, of 
 yellow split peas ; allow them to remain 
 in water the whole night before you wish 
 to use them ; after which take them out 
 and put them into a cloth so loose as to 
 allow the peas to swell; boil them for 
 four hours, or until they are quite tender, 
 then rub them through a colander, so as 
 to render them perfectly smooth ; add to 
 the pulp a lump of butter and some salt. 
 After being well mixed put the peas again 
 into a cloth, tie tightly, and boil for about 
 half an hour. Pour over it melted but- 
 ter. 
 
 A richer pudding may be made if two 
 well-beaten eggs are added along with 
 the butter. It is served with boiled 
 pork. 
 
 1094. STEWED BEANS. 
 
 Boil them in water in which a lump of 
 butter has been placed, preserve them as 
 white as you can, chop a few sweet herbs 
 with some parsley very fine, stew them in 
 a pint of the water in which the leaves 
 have been boiled, to which a quarter of 
 a pint of cream has been added ; stew until 
 quite tender, then add the beans, stew 
 five minutes, thicken with butter and 
 flour. 
 
 1095. BEANS, PUEEE OF, WHITE. 
 Chop some onions and fry them lightly 
 in a little butter and flour, and moisten 
 with a teaspoonful of broth; let the 
 onions be done ; boil the beans in this 
 for half an hour, season them well, use 
 
VEGETABLES. 
 
 387 
 
 brown pepper, and strain them through 
 a tammy ; reduce the puree over a brisk 
 fire, take off the white scum, and before 
 you serve refine it with a bit of fresh but- 
 ter and two spoonfuls of thick cream, 
 garnish it with fried crust of bread ; this 
 may be made brown by frying the onions 
 brown. 
 
 1096. TO PEESEEVE PEAS FOE WINTEE 
 
 USE.* 
 
 Shell, scald, and dry them : put them 
 on tins or earthen dishes, in a cool oven, 
 once or twice, to harden. Keep them in 
 paper bags hung up in the kitchen.. 
 When they are to be used, let them lie 
 an hour in water ; then set them on with 
 cold water and a bit of butter, and boil 
 them till ready. Put a sprig of dried 
 mint to boil with them. 
 
 Apperfs jnefhod. Have the peas 
 gathered when ripe, for if too young they 
 will be watery and not fit to keep. The 
 peas, when shelled, should be put into 
 strong jars or open-mouthed bottles, and 
 shaken, so as to make them sit closely to- 
 gether. This done, the jars must be very 
 tightly corked and tied down. The jars 
 are then placed upright in a bain-marie, or 
 any iron pot large enough to contain them, 
 with hay placed between each, to prevent 
 collision and breakage ; the pot is filled 
 with cold water up to the neck of the 
 jars, placed upon the fire, and allowed to 
 boil for an hour and a half if in cool 
 moist weather, but for two hours if it be 
 hot and dry. The jars should not be 
 taken out of the pot until the water be- 
 comes cold. 
 
 French beans and asparagus may be 
 preserved in the same manner; they 
 maintain their color, but lose much of 
 their flavor, and require a little sugar 
 to improve it. 
 
 1097. HAEICOT EOOTS. 
 Pare three turnips, and scrape two or 
 
 * As practised in the kitchen of the Emperor of 
 Kussia. 
 
 three good-colored carrots, about two 
 dozen button onions, a head of celery ; 
 cut out with a scoop-cutter sufficient car- 
 rots and turnips to pair the button 
 onions ; lay them for a few minutes in 
 boiling water, keep all your roots in wa- 
 ter until all is done, cut your celery 
 to correspond as to size with the other 
 roots; when done blanch them, then 
 strain them off, return them into the 
 stewpan, and put to them some good 
 brown stock ; boil them until reduced to 
 nearly a glaze, then add some brown 
 sauce to them, sugar, pepper, and salt, do 
 not stir with a spoon to mash the roots, 
 which should be quite perfect. 
 
 1098. WHITE HAEICOT BEANS. (Spanish 
 
 Eeceipt.) 
 
 Take a pint of beans, pour a quart of 
 boiling water upon them and let them re- 
 main in soak until the next day ; cut a 
 lettuce in four pieces and put it with 
 the beans in some fresh hot water, throw 
 in a small fagot of parsley, and a slice 
 of ham, boil them until the whole are 
 tender. 
 
 Chop up some onions, with a clove of 
 garlic, fry them and then put them into 
 a stewpan, put the beans to them with a 
 well beaten egg and some spice, heat them 
 and send them to table.' 
 
 1099. BEET-EOOTS. 
 
 Cut in equal-sized slices some beet 
 root, boiled or baked, of a good color, 
 make it hot between two plates in the 
 oven, dish it as you would cutlets, round ; 
 make a good piquant sauce, boil some 
 button onions white and tender, throw 
 them in the middle of the dish with the 
 sauce; or, boil simply, and serve the 
 slices with melted butter. 
 
 1100. FEENCH WAY OF DEESSING COLD 
 BEET-EOOT. 
 
 Take your cold beet-root chop it very 
 small and put it in a saucepan to heat, 
 with a little cream ; immediately before 
 
388 
 
 THE PEACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 serving, put in a spoonful of vinegar and 
 a little brown sugar ; serve hot. 
 
 1101. BKOCCOLI A5JD BUTTERED EGGS. 
 Keep a handsome bunch for the middle, 
 and have eight pieces to go round ; toast 
 a piece of bread to fit the inner part of 
 the dish or plate : boil the broccoli. In 
 the mean time have ready six (or more) 
 eggs beaten, put for six a quarter of a 
 pound of fine butter into a saucepan, 
 with a little salt, stir it over the fire, and 
 as it becomes warm add the eggs, and 
 shake the saucepan till the mixture is 
 thick enough ; pour it on the hot toast, 
 and lay the broccoli as before directed. 
 This receipt is a very good one, it is oc- 
 casionally varied, but without improve- 
 ment, the dish is however nearly obsolete. 
 
 1102.-CABBAGE TO BOIL. 
 
 Nick your cabbage in quarters at the 
 stalk, wash it thoroughly clean, put it 
 into boiling spring water with a handful 
 of salt and a small piece of soda, boil it 
 fast, when done strain it in a colander, 
 press it gently, cut it in halves and serve. 
 Savoys and greens may be boiled in the 
 same manner, they should always be 
 boiled by themselves. Should the cab- 
 bage be left, it may be chopped, put into 
 a saucepan with a lump of butter, and 
 pepper, and salt, and made hot and sent 
 to table. 
 
 Small, close cabbages laid on a stone floor, 
 before the frost sets in, will blanch and be 
 very fine, after many weeks' keeping. 
 
 1103. STEWED WATEK-CRESS. 
 The following receipt may be newj and 
 will be found an agreeable and wholesome 
 dish : Lay the cress in strong salt and 
 water, to clear it from insects. Pick and 
 wash nicely, and stew in water for about 
 ten minutes ; drain and chop, season with 
 pepper and salt, add a little butter, and 
 return it to the stewpan until well heated. 
 Add a little vinegar first before serving : 
 
 put around it sippets of toast or frie(J 
 bread. The above made thin, as a sub- 
 stitute for parsley and butter, will be 
 found an excellent covering for a boiled 
 fowl. There should be more of the cress 
 considerably than of the parsley, as the 
 flavor is much milder. 
 
 1104. MUSHEOOMS. 
 
 The mushrooms proper to be used in 
 cookery grow in the open pasture land, 
 for those that grow near or under trees, 
 are poisonous. The eatable mushrooms 
 first appear very small, and of a round 
 form, on a little stalk. They grow very 
 rapidly, and the upper part and stalk are 
 white. As they increase in size, the 
 under part gradually opens, and shows a 
 fringed fur of a very fine salmon color, 
 which continues more or less till the 
 mushroom has gained some size, and 
 then turns to a dark brown. These marks 
 should be attended to, and likewise whe- 
 ther the skin can be easily parted from 
 the edge, and middle, and whether they 
 have a pleasant smell. Those which are 
 poisonous have a yellow skin, and the 
 under part has not the clear flesh color 
 of the real mushroom; besides which, 
 they smell rank and disagreeable, and the 
 fur is white or yellow. 
 
 In Stewing, if you wish to have the 
 full taste of the mushroom only, after 
 washing, trimming, and peeling them, 
 put them into a stewpan with a little salt 
 and no water. Set them on coals, and 
 stew them slowly till tender } adding 
 nothing to them but a little butter rolled 
 in flour, or else a little cream. Be sure 
 to keep the pan well covered. 
 
 1105. BROILED MUSHROOMS. 
 
 Pare some large open mushrooms, 
 leaving the stalks on, paring them to a 
 point ; wash them well, turn them on the 
 back of a drying sieve to drain. Put 
 into a stewpan two ounces of butter, some 
 
VEGETABLES. 
 
 380 
 
 chopped parsley, and shalots, fry them 
 for a minute on the fire ; when melted 
 place your mushroom stalks upwards on 
 a saute pan, then pour the butter and 
 parsley over all the mushrooms ; pepper 
 and salt them well with black pepper, put 
 them in the oven to broil; when done 
 put a little good stock to them, give them 
 a boil, and dish them, pour the liquor 
 over them, add more gravy, but let it be 
 put in hot ; an ho'ur and a quarter before 
 it is done add four table-spoonfuls of red 
 wine and the liver ; serve very hot. 
 
 1106. LETTUCES AND ENDIVES 
 Are better, I think, only cut into pieces 
 or into quarters, and dished neatly round ; 
 but they must be done in some good 
 stock and not put into the thick sauce, 
 but when you take them out after being 
 done, you will press and form them, then 
 boil down their liquor to a glaze, which 
 will, when added to your already thick 
 sauce, give the desired flavor ; glaze the 
 quarters before dishing them, pour the 
 sauce under and round. 
 
 IIOV. TUKNIPS, WHOLE. 
 Pare several large turnips, scoop them 
 out with an iron cutter for the purpose, 
 throw them in water as you cut them, 
 when done blanch them, then strain them 
 off, if for white add bechamel to them ; 
 if for brown, brown sauce ; season as be- 
 fore. 
 
 1108. PUEEE OF TUENIPS. 
 Pare and cut up several turnips into 
 slices, put them on to boil in milk and water 
 until tender, strain them on the back of 
 a sieve, throw away the liquor, and rub 
 through the turnips; when done put 
 them into a stewpan with a piece of but- 
 ter, a spoonful of flour, a gill of cream, 
 a little sugar, salt, and cayenne pepper. 
 
 1109. TEUFFLES. 
 
 The truffle, like the mushroom, is a 
 
 species of fungus common in France and 
 Italy. It grows about eight or ten inches 
 below the surface of the ground. As it 
 imparts a most delicious flavor, it is much 
 used in cooking. Being dug out of the 
 earth, it requires a great deal of washing 
 and brushing before it can be applied to 
 culinary purposes. When washed, the 
 water should be warm and changed fre- 
 quently; it loses much of its flavor 
 when dried. 
 
 Truffles with Champagne. Take ten 
 or twelve well-cleaned truffles, put them 
 into a stewpan on rashers of bacon, add 
 a bay leaf, a seasoned bouquet, a little 
 grated bacon, some slices of ham, some 
 stock, and a bottle of champagne ; cover 
 them with a piece of buttered paper, put 
 on the lid, and set the 'stewpan in hot 
 ashes, put fire on the top, and let them 
 stew for an hour ; when done drain them 
 on a clean cloth, and serve on a folded 
 napkin. 
 
 To keep them. After opening a fresh 
 bottle and not requiring them all, return 
 them into the bottle, filling up the bottle 
 with some boiled sherry, cork them down 
 until wanted again. 
 
 1110 . MOEELS. 
 
 The mprel is a kind of mushroom, and 
 for a ragout or garnish they are prepared 
 as follows : take the largest morels, take 
 off their stalks and split them in two or 
 three pieces, wash and put them into aba- 
 sin of warm water to free them from the 
 sand and earth, then blanch and drain 
 and put them into a stewpan with a piece 
 of butter and lemon juice, give them a 
 turn and moisten with white or brown 
 sauce. They should bo dried slowly, put 
 in paper bags, and kept in a dry place. 
 
 1111. SIDNEY SMITH'S EECEIPT FOR 
 SALAD. 
 
 Two large potatoes, passed through 
 
 kitchen sieve, 
 Unwonted softness to the salad give, 
 
390 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 Of ardent mustard add a single spoon 
 Distrust the condiment which bites so 
 
 soon: 
 But deem it not, thou man of herbs, a 
 
 fault 
 
 To add a double quantity of salt ; 
 Three times the spoon with oil of Lucca 
 
 crown, 
 And once with vinegar, procured from 
 
 town. 
 
 True flavor needs it, and your poet begs 
 The pounded yellow of two well-boiled 
 
 Let onion atoms lurk within the bowl, 
 
 And, scarce suspected, animate the whole ; 
 
 And. lastly, on the flavored compound 
 toss 
 
 A magic teaspoon of anchovy sauce. 
 
 Then, though green turtle fail, though 
 venison's tough, 
 
 And ham and turkeys are not boiled 
 enough, 
 
 Serenely full the Epicure may say, 
 
 Fate cannot harm me I have dined to- 
 day ! 
 
 1112. CHICKEN SALAD. 
 
 Mince the meat of two cooked fowls, 
 with a little ham or tongue ; cut up fine 
 a nice lettuce head ; put it in a dish, with 
 the chicken in the centre ; for the dress- 
 ing, take the yolks of four eggs beaten, 
 two teaspoonfuls of mixed mustard, two 
 table-spoonfuls of vinegar, and four of oil, 
 half a teaspoonful of Cayenne pepper: 
 boil the mixture, and when cold pour it 
 over the chicken, and ornament it with 
 sliced white of egg and of beets. 
 
 1118. SALAD DKESSING FOE LETTUCE. 
 Two hard-boiled eggs, the yolks 
 mashed with four teaspoonfuls of sweet 
 oil, a saltspoon of salt, and a teaspoonful 
 of mustard, with two table-spoonfuls of 
 vinegar. Add the lettuce cut up fine, 
 and mince the white of egg to throw 
 f ver it. 
 
 1114 SALADS. 
 
 Coss-lettuce and blanched endive make 
 the best salad, the green leaves being 
 stripped off, and leaving nothing but the 
 close, white hearts, which, after being 
 washed and placed for an hour or two in 
 cold water, should be wiped quite dry. 
 To this should be added a head or two 
 of celery, a couple of anchovies (which 
 are far preferable to the essence), and 
 several chives, or young onions, all cut 
 small, while the lettuces should be di- 
 vided lengthwise into quarters, and cut 
 into rather large pieces. 
 
 The mixture or dressing. For four 
 persons bruise only the yolk of one hard- 
 boiled egg (leaving out altogether the 
 white), with some salt, and make it into 
 a paste with two large teaspoonfuls of 
 moutarde de maille; or, if obliged to use 
 common mustard, add to it a drop or 
 two of asafoatida, which will impart to 
 it a slight flavor of garlic. Then add oil 
 and vinegar in the following proportions, 
 without using so much as to make the 
 sauce thin, and taking care to have the 
 finest Provence or Lucca oil, and the 
 very strongest species of real French 
 vinegar : namely, to every one spoonful 
 of vinegar add two of oil ; one spoonful 
 of the vinegar being impregnated with 
 chilis, which will add warmth to the 
 salad, much more agreeably than cay- 
 enne. A little tarragon may be an 
 improvement, and a spoonful of Quihi or 
 walnut ketchup is not objectionable ; but 
 mushroom ketchup will destroy the pun- 
 gency of flavor, and both may be left out 
 without inconvenience. 
 
 When this is done, mix the sauce well, 
 but lightly, with the salad, to which a 
 few slices of boiled beet-root, and the 
 white of the egg sliced, will be a pretty 
 addition. 
 
 The excellence of a salad consists in 
 the vegetables being young and fresh, and 
 they should be prepared only a short 
 
SALADS. 
 
 391 
 
 time before they are wanted ; the salad 
 mixture being either poured into the bot- 
 tom of the bowl or sent up in a sauce- 
 tureen, and not stirred up with the vege- 
 tables until they are served. 
 
 In summer salads the mixture must 
 not be poured upon the lettuce or vege- 
 tables used in the salad, but be left at 
 the bottom, to be stirred up when want- 
 ed, as thus preserving the crispness of 
 the lettuce. 
 
 In winter salads, however, the reverse 
 of this proceeding must be adopted, as 
 thus : the salad of endive, celery, beet, 
 and other roots being cut ready fqr dress- 
 ing, then pour the mixture upon the in- 
 gredients, and stir them well up, so that 
 every portion may receive its benefit. 
 
 In doing this, it should likewise be re- 
 collected that the spoon and fork should 
 always be of wood, and of sufficient size 
 to stir up the vegetables in large quan- 
 tities.* 
 
 1115. CHICKEN SALAD. (English.) 
 
 Pull the meat off the bones, put it 
 into a small pan with a shalot cut in thin 
 slices, a few sprigs of parsley, and a ta- 
 ble-spoonful each of oil and tarragon 
 vinegar ; season the chicken well with 
 pepper and salt ; let it soak for about 
 three hours. Boil three eggs hard, cut 
 them in four pieces lengthways; chop 
 two anchovies, six olives, and a dessert- 
 spoonful of capers ; take three lettuces, 
 reserve the small hearts to garnish with, 
 cutting them in four, shred fine the 
 other leaves, that are white, and cut 
 roughly some small salad ; put a layer of 
 salad on the dish, then the chicken, sprin- 
 kle the chopped anchovy, &c., then more 
 salad and chicken until you have used 
 up the whole of your materials ; then 
 
 * Asa substitute for egg in salad, rub down a 
 dessert-spoonful of a mashed potato with mustard 
 and salt, and some cream or thick melted butter, 
 which answers for oil when that is not at hand ; 
 then add the vinegar. 
 
 mask it with a thick Mayonnaise sauce : 
 garnish it round the bottom with tlie 
 lettuce-hearts and eggs alternately. This 
 salad is much improved if the dish can 
 be placed on pounded ice whilst it is 
 being prepared. 
 
 The remains of veal and white poultry, 
 when minced and left cold, instead of 
 being fricasseed, will thus be found an 
 excellent addition to the dinner of a 
 summer's day, with added slices of cu- 
 cumber. 
 
 1116. CHICKEN SALAD. 
 
 Boil a chicken that weighs not more 
 than a pound and a half. When very 
 tender, take it up, cut it in small strips, 
 and make the following sauce, and turn 
 over it boil four eggs three minutes 
 then take them out of the shells, mash 
 and mix them with a couple of table- 
 spoonfuls of olive-oil, or melted butter, 
 two-thirds of a tumbler of vinegar, a tea- 
 spoonful of mixed mustard, a teaspoon- 
 ful of salt, a little pepper, and essence of 
 celery, if you have it if not, it can be 
 dispensed with. In making chicken salad, 
 the dressing should not be put on till a 
 few minutes before the salad is sent in ; 
 as by lying in it s the chicken and celerv 
 will become hard. 
 
 1117.-SALAD OF FOWL. 
 
 Proceed as for that of game, so far as 
 the eggs and the salad are concerned; 
 then have a chicken, which has been pre- 
 viously plain roasted, or in vegetables, 
 and cut it into ten neat pieces, put it 
 into a basin, season with a teaspoonful 
 of salt, quarter ditto of pepper, two table- 
 spoonfuls of oil, one of vinegar, one on- 
 ion sliced, and a few sprigs of chopped 
 parsley ; mix them well, and let them 
 remain for a few hours, if time will per- 
 mit. Take the pieces of chicken, and 
 place in a dish with salad, as directed for 
 grouse, with the sauce, &c., and serve. 
 
392 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 Nothing is better for ball-suppers than 
 these kind of dishes ; they may be made 
 of all kinds of solid fish, and the sauce 
 is excellent ; any kind of cold meat, cut 
 in slices, dressed round with the sauce 
 over, may be served for supper or lunch- 
 eon. It may be served with the same 
 sauce or dressing as for lobster salad; 
 or make the following one, which differs 
 a little : Put into a middle-sized, round- 
 bottomed basin, the yolk of two eggs, 
 half a spoonful of salt, quarter of one of 
 pepper, half a one of sugar, ditto of fine 
 chopped onions, ditto of parsley, tarra- 
 gon, or chervil, stir with the right hand 
 with a wooden spoon, while you pour 
 some oil out of the bottle by keeping 
 your thumb on its mouth, so that it runs 
 out very slowly ; when a few spoonfuls 
 are in it, it will become quite stiff; pour 
 also, by degrees, a few spoonfuls of vine- 
 gar, and so on until you have made 
 enough for your salad ; try if the flavor 
 is good and relishing ; as the quality of 
 these two last ingredients vary so much, 
 I must leave it to your palate and correct 
 judgment. If you should fail at first, 
 try again until you succeed, and I am 
 certain you will be delighted with the 
 result; it ought to be made in a cold 
 place, particularly in* summer. Great 
 taste should be observed in the decora- 
 tion of the border, for which you should 
 see the " Gastronomic Regenerator." 
 
 1118. FISH SALADS. 
 All fish salads are made from the re- 
 mains of fish from a previous dinner, es- 
 pecially turbot and salmon ; but for fil- 
 lets of soles they must be dressed thus 
 When filleted, melt an ounce of butter 
 in a sautepan, lay the fillets in, season 
 with pepper and salt, and the juice of 
 half a lemon ; saute them on a slow fire 
 until done, which may be from four to 
 five minutes, and put by to get cold ; cu 
 in middle-sized pieces and use as lob- 
 ster. 
 
 1119. MAYONNAISE. 
 
 [The following receipt is contributed 
 to " The Practical Housekeeper " by Mr. 
 Delmonico, proprietor of the well-known 
 establishments at the Irving House and 
 at the corner of Beaver and William 
 streets, New York.] 
 
 In a middle-sized dish placed in crack- 
 ed ice, put the yolks of two fresh eggs, 
 a little salt, some white pepper, and some 
 vinegar a Pestragon. Stir this mixture 
 briskly with a wooden spoon, and as soon 
 as it begins to thicken, mix in gradual- 
 ly a table-spoonful of oil and a little 
 vinegar, taking care to beat the sauce 
 against the sides of the dish. On this 
 repeated beating depends the whiteness 
 of the sauce Mayonnaise. In propor- 
 tion to the bulk add oil and vinegar 
 together, putting in but little at a time. 
 As it comes nearer perfection it grows 
 thick and strong-bodied. When finished 
 add a squeeze of citron and some drops' 
 of water. This sauce is delicious for 
 chicken salad mayonnaise de volaille 
 and serves for all kinds of fish and poul- 
 try. 
 
 1120. LOBSTEE SALAD. 
 
 Take out the meat of the claws and 
 body, cutting it into small pieces, and 
 mixing it with the lettuce or endive ; but 
 previously separate the soft part of the 
 fish adhering to the shell, with the red 
 spawn of the hen-lobster, and blend 
 them with the materials prepared for the 
 dressing. It will perhaps require a little 
 more pungency of flavor, which can be 
 imparted by a small additional quantity 
 of chili or tarragon vinegar. 
 
 Crab, or shrimps, may be used in the 
 same manner ; and a great improvement 
 in either will be found by throwing in a 
 portion of savory calf's-foot jelly, di- 
 vided into pieces. 
 
 Although shell-fish are very decidedly 
 the best mixture to be put into this 
 salad, yet any sort of firm, fish, which 
 
PICKLES. 
 
 393 
 
 have been dressed, and partly left cold, 
 may also be prepared in a similar way. 
 
 PICKLES AND STOEE-EOOM 
 SAUCES. 
 
 Although meat, when cured and dried, 
 is called " pickled," yet in that operation 
 salt alone is employed as brine, while in 
 the pickling of vegetables, of which we 
 are about to treat, the means chiefly used 
 is vinegar. 
 
 In the making of all sorts of pickles, 
 salads, and sauces, in which vinegar is 
 employed, it is of much importance to 
 have it of the strongest quality, as well 
 as of the best flavor. If the flavor of 
 chilis, capsicums, tarragon, eschalots, gar- 
 lic, or any root, is wished to be imparted 
 to the vinegar, it is only necessary to 
 put a portion of either (say one oz.) into 
 a bottleful of the liquid ; cork it closely, 
 and in a very few weeks it will be found 
 thoroughly impregnated with the pecu- 
 liar taste ; then strain it off, and fill the 
 bottle up again, as it will answer for 
 more than once. The flavor of any herb 
 will also be communicated by boiling it 
 for a short time in the acid ; as well as a 
 few fruits, the flavor of which is very de- 
 licious when imparted to vinegar. 
 
 Pickles should be made at home, as 
 both cheaper and better. The pickles 
 should be kept either in glass bottles, or 
 in stone or unglazed jars, as the vinegar, 
 or even soured vegetables, will corrode 
 the glazing of the jars, which, being made 
 from lead, is poisonous. Use saucepans 
 lined with earthenware or stone pipkins 
 to boil your .vinegar in. If you are com- 
 pelled to use tin, do not let your vinegar 
 remain in it one moment longer than ac- 
 tually necessary; employ also wooden 
 knives and forks in the preparation of 
 your pickles. Fill your jars three parts 
 
 full with the articles to be pickled, and 
 then add vinegar up to the neck of the 
 jar or bottle. 
 
 When greening, keep the pickles cov- 
 ered down, or the evaporation of the 
 steam will injure the color ; a little nut 
 of alum may be added to crisp the pic- 
 kles, but it should be very small in pro- 
 portion to the quantity, or it will give a 
 disagreeable flavor. 
 
 If any symptoms appear of the pickles 
 becoming mouldy, boil the vinegar again, 
 adding a little more spice; keep them 
 also close stopped, as exposure to the air 
 makes the pickle soft. 
 
 1121. TO PICKLE ONIONS. 
 
 Silver Sort. Choose small button 
 onions, as near of a size as possible; 
 throw them into warm water, which will 
 prevent their affecting the eyes so much, 
 while peeling them. As they are peeled, 
 throw them into a strong brine of salt 
 and water, with a small bit of alum ; let 
 them remain in this till the next day, 
 then put them on the fire, and boil them 
 in it for a minute. Or, as they are peeled, 
 throw them into milk and water ; drain 
 them from this when they are all done, 
 put them into a jar, and pour the brine 
 on them boiling hot ; cover them close, 
 and set them aside till the next day; 
 drain and dry them in a cloth ; put them 
 into cold vinegar, with a few blades of 
 bruised ginger, some whole pepper, and, 
 if approved, a little mace and sliced 
 horseradish; keep them always well 
 covered with vinegar ; cork the jar close, 
 and put it in a cool dry place. 
 
 Full-grown Sort. Peel and slice large 
 onions, and sprinkle them with salt. To 
 every gallon take about a dozen capsi- 
 cums, either dry or green, slicing only a 
 part ; add a few cloves, some pepper and 
 allspice, all whole. Put the onions into 
 jars, distribute the spices pretty equally 
 among them, fill up the jars with vine- 
 
394 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 gar, and set them in a pan of cold water 
 over the fire, taking care that they are 
 closely tied down with a bladder : keep 
 a wet cloth over them to prevent the 
 bladder from bursting. In about an 
 hour and a half the onions will be soft 
 enough. 
 
 Onions and Cucumbers. To every 
 dozen of cucumbers put three large onions, 
 cut both hi thick slices, and sprinkle salt 
 over them. Next day drain them for 
 five or six hours, then put them into a 
 stone jar, pour boiling vinegar over them, 
 and keep them in a warm place. Eepeat 
 the boiling vinegar, and stop them up 
 again instantly, and so on till green ; the 
 last tune put pepper and ginger ; keep in 
 stone jars. The vinegar is very good for 
 winter salads. 
 
 1122.-GAELIC PICKLE. 
 
 Steep one quarter of a pound of ginger 
 in strong salt and water for five days, 
 then cut it into slices and dry it in the 
 sun ; put it into a large stone jar with a 
 gallon of the best white-wine vinegar. 
 Peel one pound of garlic, salt it well, and 
 let it stand in the salt three days ; wipe 
 it, and dry it in the sun, then put it into 
 the pickle ; add also a quarter of a pound 
 of long pepper steeped in salt and water 
 and well dried, one pound of mustard- 
 seed bruised, and a quarter of a pound 
 of turmeric. Shake these ingredients 
 well in the jar, and add any thing that it 
 is desirable to pickle as it comes into 
 season, salting and drying them pre- 
 viously in the sun. When completed, the 
 pickle should be kept a year or two be- 
 fore it is used. 
 
 Shalots may be pickled in the same 
 way ; or if put, as we have already stat- 
 ed, in a bottle of cold vinegar, their fiV 
 vor will be imparted to it in the course 
 of a month. 
 
 1128. CUCUMBEES. 
 
 Tf full-grown, the small long sort are 
 
 the best for pickling. Let them be fresh- 
 gathered ; pull off the blossoms, but do 
 not rub them ; pour over them a strong 
 brine of salt and water boiling hot, cover 
 them close, and let them stand all night. 
 The next day stir them gently to take 
 off the sand, drain them on a sieve, and 
 dry them on a cloth ; make a pickle with 
 the best white-wine vinegar, ginger, 
 pepper (long and round), and a little 
 garlic. When the pickle boils throw in 
 the cucumbers, cover them, and make 
 them boil as quickly as possible for three 
 or four minutes ; put them into a jar with 
 the vinegar, and cover them closely; 
 when cold, put in a sprig of dill, the seed 
 downward. They will be exceedingly 
 crisp and green done in this manner ; but 
 if they do not appear to be of a fine color, 
 boil up the pickle the next day, and pour 
 it boiling on the cucumbers. 
 
 1124 MUSHEOOMS. 
 
 To pickle Mushrooms White. Take 
 the very small buttons, clean and rub 
 them with a flannel, then put them into 
 cold distilled vinegar, and allow it to 
 come to a boil very slowly ; drain and lay 
 them in a cloth till cold, and then put 
 them into fresh distilled vinegar. If 
 very small, they should not be allowed 
 to boil, as so strong a heat might destroy 
 them. It will, therefore, be sufficient to 
 warm them ; and when dried, they may 
 be again put into the vinegar in which 
 they had been originally placed, after it 
 has been cooled. As to spice, a little 
 mace will improve their flavor, but no 
 hot pepper should be used. Those which 
 are red underneath, may also be used ; 
 but those which are black are too old, 
 and only fit for broiling or to make 
 ketchup. 
 
 To pickle Mushrooms Brown. Choo&e 
 them older, but see that they be fresh, 
 and of a nearly pink color underneath ; 
 clean, and sprinkle them with salt, put 
 them in layers, and let them stand for a 
 
PICKLES. 
 
 395 
 
 couple of days; then add some whole 
 pepper, cover them very close, and put 
 them into an oven when bread is baking. 
 That done, take them out, strain off the 
 liquor, into which put cloves, mace, and 
 allspice, and let the whole boil for a little 
 while. While that is doing, put the 
 mushrooms into the stewpan for a short 
 time, then take the whole off the fire, 
 and when perfectly cold pot them, with 
 the addition of a little vinegar. 
 
 An excellent way to preserve the flavor 
 of mushrooms when l)eing pickled, is, to 
 rub them with a bit of flannel and salt, 
 and from the larger take out the red in- 
 side ; when they are black they will not 
 do, being too old. Throw a little salt 
 over, and put them into a stewpan with 
 some mace; as the liquor comes out, 
 shake them well, and keep them over a 
 gentle fire, till all of it be dried into them 
 again ; then put as much vinegar into the 
 pan as will cover them, give it one warm, 
 and turn all into a glass or stone jar. 
 They will keep two years, and are de- 
 licious. 
 
 1125. MUSHEOOM POWDEB. 
 
 "Wash a half peck of large mushrooms 
 while quite fresh, and free them from 
 dirt and grit with flannel ; scrape out the 
 black part clean, and do not use any that 
 are worm-eaten ; put them into a stewpan 
 over the fire without water, with two 
 large onions, some cloves, a quarter of 
 an ounce of maces, and two spoonfuls of 
 white pepper, all in powder ; simmer and 
 shake them till all the liquor be dried 
 up, but be careful they do not burn. Lay 
 them on tins or sieves, in a slow oven, 
 till they are dry enough to beat to pow- 
 der ; then put the powder in small bot- 
 tles corked and tied closely, and keep in 
 a dry place. 
 
 A teaspoonful will give a very fine 
 flavor to any soup or gravy, or any sauce. 
 It is to be added just before serving, and 
 one boil given to it after it is put in.. 
 
 1126. TO PICKLE WALNUTS. 
 Gather the walnuts when tender, and 
 put them in salt and water : prick each 
 with a needle several times ; let them 
 stand two or three days, changing the 
 water every day. Make a brine of salt 
 and water strong enough to bear an egg ; 
 it must be quite cold before being used, 
 and be well skimmed while boiling. To 
 every hundred walnuts allow one gallon 
 of water. Let the walnuts soak six 
 days, then change the brine, and let them 
 stand six more; then drain them, and 
 expose them to the sun that they may 
 turn black ; pour over them, in a jar, a 
 pickle of the best white- wine vinegar, 
 with a good quantity of pepper, pimento, 
 ginger, mace, cloves, mustard-seed, and 
 horseradish, all boiled together, but cold. 
 To every hundred walnuts allow six 
 spoonfuls of mustard-seed, with an ounce 
 of whole black pepper, and two or three 
 heads of garlic or shalot, but the latter is 
 least strong ; let them be quite covered 
 with vinegar. This done, they will be 
 good for several years, if closely covered. 
 The air will soften them. They will 
 not, however, be fit to eat under six 
 months. 
 
 1127. TO PICKLE EADISH-PODS. 
 Gather the radish-pods when they are 
 quite young, and put them into salt and 
 water all night ; then boil the salt and 
 water, and pour it over the pods in jars, 
 and cover them closely to keep in the 
 steam. When the brine is cold boil it, 
 and pour it hot upon the pods again, re- 
 peating the process until they are green ; 
 then put them in a sieve to drain, and 
 make a pickle for them of white- wine 
 vinegar, mace, ginger, long pepper, and 
 horseradish; pour it boiling hot upon 
 the pods, and when nearly cold boil it 
 again, and pour it over them. When 
 cold, tie down the jars. 
 
 1128. TO PICKLE FEENCH BEANS. 
 
 Gather them before they become 
 
396 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 Btringy, and, without taking off the ends, 
 put them into a very strong brine until 
 they become yellow; drain the liquor 
 from them, and wipe them dry with a 
 cloth. Put them into a stone jar by the 
 fire, put in a little bit of alum, and pour 
 boiling vinegar upon them every twenty- 
 four hours, preventing the escape of the 
 steam. In four or five days they will 
 become green. Boil a little mace, whole 
 pepper, and ginger in the vinegar. 
 Do samphire the same way. 
 
 1129. NASTURTIUMS 
 
 So much resemble capers, both in fla- 
 vor and the mode of pickling, as to be 
 frequently used in the same manner ; 
 the seeds should be allowed to get ripe 
 after the buds and flowers have gone off. 
 Gather them upon a dry day, and keep 
 them for a few days after they have been 
 gathered ; put them into a jar, and pour 
 boiling vinegar well spiced upon them; 
 when cold, cover the jar. They will not 
 be fit for use for some months, but will 
 be finely flavored after keeping, and are 
 sometimes preferred to capers, for which 
 they are an excellent substitute, being 
 useful also in serving up all dishes in 
 which pickles are warmed with the 
 gravy. Young red capsicums and elder- 
 flowers before they open may be done in 
 the same way. 
 
 1130. TO PICKLE RED CABBAGE. 
 
 Take those of a deep red or purple 
 color, strip off the outer leaves and cut 
 out the stalk; quarter the cabbage 
 lengthwise and cut it crosswise, but not 
 in very thin slices ; put it into .a sieve 
 and sprinkle it with salt and saltpetre; 
 let it drain for twenty-four hours, then 
 squeeze it until it is very dry ; make a 
 pickle with sufficient vinegar to cover the 
 cabbages well, and made with equal quan- 
 tities of cloves and allspice, with a little 
 mace to be put in whole, to which if a 
 very small quantity of cochineal be add- 
 
 ed, it will greatly improve the color; 
 boil the vinegar and spices together for 
 full five minutes, and strain it ; then, 
 having put the cabbage into a stone jar, 
 pour the vinegar over it boiling hot. 
 
 This is opposed to the practice of some 
 persons, who object to boiling the vine- 
 gar, and pour it cold upon the cabbage. 
 
 1181. CABBAGE, WHITE, PICKLED. 
 
 Slice your cabbage thin, then lay it in 
 salt for twenty-four hours ; strain it 
 very dry, then put it in a stone jar with 
 allspice, mace, and vinegar, and pour it 
 on boiling hot, tie it very clo.se, repeat 
 the vinegar three times, and it will be fit 
 for use. 1 
 
 1182. CABBAGE, PURPLE, TO PICKLE. 
 
 Take two cauliflowers, two red cab- 
 bages, half a peck of kidney beans, stick 
 with six cloves of garlic on each stick, 
 wash all well ; give them one boil up, 
 then strain them in a sieve, lay them leaf 
 by leaf upon a large table and salt them 
 with coarse salt ; then lay them to dry in 
 the sun, or in a slow oven, until as dry 
 as cork. 
 
 1133. CELERY, TO PICKLE. 
 
 Separate the stalks from the head, clean 
 them thoroughly, and put them into salt 
 and water strong enough to bear an egg ; 
 .et them remain in this for a week or ten 
 days, or until wanted to pickle ; then 
 ;ake them out, wash them well in clean 
 water, drain dry, place in ajar, and pour 
 boiling vinegar over, to which any ap- 
 Droved spices may have been added. As 
 s usual for pickling keep it well covered 
 with vinegar ; if the celery is allowed to 
 remain a long time in salt and water, it 
 will be necessary to soak it in clean 
 water for a day or two, changing the 
 water occasionally. 
 
 1134 TO PICKLE CAULIFLOWERS. 
 
 Take the closest and whitest cauli- 
 
PICKLES. 
 
 397 
 
 flowers you can get, and pull them in 
 bunches, and spread them on an earthen 
 dish, and lay salt all over them, let them 
 stand for three days to bring out all the 
 water, then put them in earthen jars, 
 and pour boiling salt and water upon 
 them, and let them stand all night, then 
 drain them on a hair sieve, and put them 
 into glass jars, and fill up your jars with 
 vinegar, and tie them close down with 
 leather. 
 
 1185. PiCKLED TOMATOES. 
 
 The tomatoes should not be very ripe. 
 
 Mix in a large stone jar, one ounce of 
 mustard, and half the same quantity of 
 cloves and black pepper, and fill the jar 
 half full of the best vinegar. Lay in the 
 tomatoes, mixing with them a dozen or 
 more whole onions. 
 
 The jar should not be opened for a 
 month, when the pickles will be fit for 
 use ; great care must be taken to close 
 the jar well whenever pickles are taken 
 out. This done, they will keep a year. 
 
 Another. Take a peck of ripe toma- 
 toes, prick them with^a fork, and lay 
 them in a jar with layers of salt. Let 
 them remain eight days in salt; then 
 take them out and put them for twenty- 
 four hours in fresh water with a little 
 vinegar. 
 
 Take them out, press them gently, and 
 lay them on a sieve to drain. Slice 
 twelve large onions, or more smaller 
 ones. Put a layer of the tomatoes in a 
 stone jar, tnd cover them with a layer 
 of slices of onion. Over this strew 
 mustard, allspice, black pepper, and 
 cloves all but the cloves ground fine. 
 Then place on the mass another layer of 
 tomatoes, with another of sliced onions 
 and the mixed spices. Place the layers 
 alternately till the jar is filled. Then 
 pour over it the best vinegar, filling the 
 jar, and cover closely. The pickles will 
 be fit for use in ten days. 
 
 1136. TO PICKLE LEMONS. 
 
 Take the finest with the thickest rind 
 you can get, cut them deeply from end 
 to end in more than one place, but not 
 quite through, and fill the incisions with 
 salt ; put each on end, and lay them in a 
 dish near the fire, or in the sun if the 
 weather be hot, to dissolve the salt, and 
 repeat this during three weeks ; then 
 put them into a jar, with a handful of 
 white mustard-seed if it be large, one- 
 quarter to one-half a pound of bruised 
 ginger, half that quantity of cloves and 
 allspice, a few chilis, and a very little 
 turmeric; boil in vinegar, and pour it 
 upon the lemons when cold. It was 
 originally prepared by the cook of the 
 first Earl of Orford. " 
 
 Some people, however, ( add to it either 
 shalot or garlic. It can hardly be ready 
 in less than six months, but will keep 
 for many years. 
 
 For limes, or very small lemons, the 
 same method must be pursued, only they 
 will not require above half the time. 
 
 1137. MANGOES. 
 
 Cut a piece off the top or side of young 
 mush-melons, and remove the pulp and 
 seeds ; tie on the pieces, green them, and 
 fill the inside with grated horseradish, 
 spices, cloves, ginger, mustard-seed, onion 
 or garlic, and slices of the core of cab- 
 bage. Tie on the pieces again, pour 'on 
 them scalding vinegar, four days in suc- 
 cession, and keep them in covered jars. 
 
 Mangoes may be made of peaches. 
 
 Observe that there be plenty of vine- 
 gar, as pickles are spoiled if not well 
 covered. Large cucumbers, called " green 
 turley," prepared in the same way, are 
 excellent, and are sooner fit to be eaten. 
 
 The greater number of times boiling 
 vinegar is poured over either sort, the 
 sooner it will be ready. 
 
 1138. MIXED PICKLE. 
 
 To one gallon of vinegar put four 
 
398 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 ounces of ginger bruised, two ounces of 
 white pepper, two of allspice, two of 
 chilis, four of turmeric, one pound of 
 mustard-seed, one-half pound of shalots, 
 one ounce of garlic, and one-half pound 
 of coarse salt. Boil all together except the 
 mustard-seed, which must be added af- 
 terwards. Then mix very smoothly one- 
 quarter of a pound of made mustard 
 with some of the vinegar, when cold, in 
 a basin, and add it to the remainder with 
 the seed. Take broccoli, radish-pods, 
 French beans, or any other vegetables or 
 small fruit ; blanch the vegetables, lay 
 them on a sieve, and sprinkle a little salt 
 over them to draw out the water. Let 
 them stand in the sun till very dry, then 
 pour the vinegar boiling over them, sli- 
 cing in some horseradish if approved. 
 
 Pickle of this kind can be rendered 
 hot at pleasure, by additions of chilis, 
 green and red capsicums which, when 
 gathered young, add exquisite flavor 
 and all sorts of foreign peppers. As the 
 spring advances, a portion of every small 
 root produced in a garden, if collected 
 and thrown into cold vinegar, till it can 
 be conveniently made into a regular 
 pickle, will be found most excellent, at 
 no greater expense than the cost of the 
 spice and vinegar, and the trouble of 
 mixing it. 
 
 1139. INDIA PICKLE 
 
 Is made in nearly the same manner. 
 Put two hundred gherkins, three pints 
 of small onions, one . quart of nastur- 
 tiums, one ditto of radish-pods, one 
 quart of French beans, six cauliflowers, 
 and two hard white cabbages sliced, into 
 a pan, and sprinkle them with salt, the 
 onions having been previously peeled and 
 laid in salt and water for a week to take 
 off their strength. Then, after a day or 
 two, take them out of the pan and dry 
 them thoroughly in a warm place in the 
 shade: they must be spread out sepa- 
 
 rately. To two gallons of vinegar put 
 one and a half ounces of allspice, the 
 same of long pepper and of white, and 
 two of ginger, tied up in muslin bags. 
 When cold, mix with the vinegar one 
 and a half pounds of flour of mustard, 
 and two table-spoonfuls of cayenne pep- 
 per. Boil it well together, and pour it 
 on the pickle : the vegetables mentioned, 
 not being all procurable at the same 
 time, may be added separately, at differ- 
 ent periods, but they must all undergo 
 the salting and drying process. 
 
 In choosing those vegetables some dis- 
 crimination may also be used : when in 
 season, few things add a higher flavor to 
 the pickle than the buds and flowers of 
 the elder. 
 
 1140. -PLUMS, TO PICKLE LIKE OLIVES. 
 
 T ake the plums before they are quite 
 ripe, and put them into a saucepan with 
 some white wine vinegar, salt water, fen- 
 nel seed, and dill, as much of each as 
 will impart a flavor to the pickle ; when 
 it boils put in the plums, let it boil 
 again, then take it off, let it stand till 
 cold, then put them into jars. 
 
 1141. QUINCE, TO PICKLE. 
 
 Pare and cut half a dozen quinces into 
 small pieces, and put them with a gallon 
 of water and two pounds of honey into a 
 large saucepan, mix them together well, 
 and set them on a slow fire for half an 
 hour, strain the liquor into a jar, when 
 quite cold wipe the quinces perfectly dry, 
 and put them into it ; cover them very 
 close. 
 
 1142. PEACHES AND APEICOTS. 
 
 Take those of a full growth, but per- 
 fectly green. Put to a gallon of vinegar 
 half an ounce of cloves, the same quantity 
 of peppercorns, sliced ginger and mustard- 
 seed add salt and boil the vinegar 
 then turn it on the peaches scalding hot. 
 
PICKLES. 
 
 399 
 
 Turn the vinegar from them several 
 times. Heat it scalding hot, and turn it 
 back while hot. 
 
 1143. TO PICKLE GEEEN PEPPEES. 
 
 The peppers must be pickled when 
 half ripe, and the smallest ones chosen. 
 Make a small hole at the top and another 
 at the bottom of the pepper, and extract 
 the core and seeds. A penknife should 
 be used in performing this operation. 
 Simmer the peppers for a whole day in 
 salt and water over a very moderate fire 
 stir them every once and awhile that 
 those at the bottom may not burn. 
 Leave them .over night to cool, and the 
 next morning lay them gently into a jar, 
 sprinkle, a small quantity of mustard over 
 them, and fill up the jar with cold vine- 
 gar. 
 
 1144.-BUTTEENUTS. 
 
 The nuts for pickling should be gather- 
 ed as early as July. When a pin will go 
 through them easily, they are young 
 enough to pickle. Soak them in salt and 
 water a week then drain it off. Rub 
 them with a cloth, to get off the rough- 
 ness. To a gallon of vinegar put a tea- 
 cup of salt, a tablespoonful of powdered 
 cloves and mace, mixed together, half an 
 ounce of allspice, and peppercorns. Boil 
 the vinegar and spices, and pour it hot on 
 the nuts. In a week scald the vinegar, 
 and pour over them again. They will 
 be fit for use in a fortnight. 
 
 1145. TO PICKLE GHEEKINS AND KIDNEY 
 BEANS. 
 
 Put the beans and gherkins, dried 
 with flannel, in salt and water that will 
 bear an egg, leave them till quite yellow, 
 stirring every day. Then put them in a 
 brass kettle with cabbage leaves under 
 and around them, so that they do nat 
 touch the brass. Put in one third vine- 
 gar and two of water, put a leaf over, 
 and cover close, so as to confine the 
 
 steam. Put them on a slow fire, but do 
 not let them boil. Change the leaves as 
 often as they grow yellow. When green, 
 take out the pickles, and put them on a 
 dish to cool and dry. Boil the vinegar 
 with a spoonful of black pepper, and one 
 of bruised ginger to a quart ; throw it 
 boiling over the pickles, and cover them 
 closely in small jars. 
 
 1146. BAEBEEEIES. 
 
 Barberries make very good pickles, 
 and are always useful in ornamenting 
 certain dishes. Leave the barberries on 
 the stem, lay them in a stone jar and fill 
 it up with cold vinegar. 
 
 1147. GEAPES. 
 
 Cut them, when hardly ripe, in bunches, 
 put them in a jar with vine leaves 
 between each layer of grapes until the jar 
 is filled ; then take as much spring water 
 as will cover the grapes and the leaves. 
 As it heats put in as much salt as will 
 make a brine sufficiently strong to bear 
 an e gg> y u ma 7 use common salt: 
 when it boils skim it, strain it through 
 a flannel bag and let it stand to set- 
 tle ; by the time it is cold it will be 
 quite settled; strain it a second time 
 through a flannel bag, then pour it 
 into a jar upon the grapes, which must 
 be well covered; fill the jar with vine 
 leaves, then tie it over with a double 
 cloth and set a plate upon it ; let it stand 
 for two days, then take off the cloth, 
 pour away the brine, then take out the 
 leaves and the grapes, and lay them be- 
 tween two cloths to dry, then take two 
 quarts of vinegar, one quart of spring 
 water, and one pound of coarse sugar, 
 boil it for a short time and skim it very 
 clean as it boils ; let it stand till it is 
 quite cold. Wipe the jar very clean and 
 dry, lay some fresh vine leaves at the 
 bottom between every bunch of grapes 
 and on the top ; then pour and strain the 
 pickle on the grapes, fill the jar, let the 
 
400 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 pickle be above the grapes, tie up a thin 
 piece of board in a flannel, lay it on the 
 grapes to keep them under the pickle, 
 tie them down with a bladder, and over 
 that a leather, always keeping the grapes 
 under the pickle. 
 
 1148.-APPLE CODLINGS, TO PICKLE. 
 
 Gather the codlings when of the size 
 of a large double walnut ; take a pan and 
 make a thick layer of vine leaves at the 
 bottom ; put in the codlings and cover 
 them well with vine leaves and spring 
 water, and put them over, a slow fire till 
 they are sufficiently tender to pare the 
 skins with ease with a small sharp knife, 
 put them into the same water with vine 
 leaves as before ; cover them close, and 
 set the pan at a short distance from the 
 fire until they are of a fine green, then 
 drain them in a colander till they are 
 cold ; put them into jars with some mace 
 and a clove or two of garlic, according to 
 the quantity of the apples, and cover 
 them with distilled vinegar; pour over 
 mutton fat, and tie them down with a 
 bladder and leather very tight. 
 
 1149. ARTICHOKES PICKLED. 
 
 Boil the artichokes till you can pull 
 the leaves off; take out the choke and 
 cut away the stalk, be careful that the 
 knife does not touch the top; throw 
 them into salt and water ; when they 
 have lain an hour take them out and 
 drain them, then put them into glasses 
 or jars, and put a little mace and sliced 
 nutmeg between ; fill them with vinegar 
 and spring water, cover your jars close. 
 
 VINEGARS. 
 
 1150. VINEGAR FOE INDIA PICKLE. 
 
 Prepare a gallon of vinegar, more or 
 A ess, according to the quantity of pickles 
 to be done, in the following manner : 
 
 Mix gradually one-quarter of a pound 
 
 of the best flour of mustard, and two 
 ounces of powdered turmeric, with somo 
 of the cold vinegar at first, to ensure its 
 being properly mixed ; then add the rest, 
 with one-quarter of a pound of white 
 mustard-seed. Bruise one-quarter of a 
 pound of ginger, two ounces of white 
 pepper, and one ounce of chilis, and tie 
 them in a muslin bag. Boil the whole 
 gently for twenty minutes or half an 
 hour, and pour it whilst boiling on the 
 pickles, having previously drained off 
 the vinegar they were first put in. In 
 ten or twelve days repeat the boiling, 
 pour it over the pickles whilst boiling 
 hot, and they will be ready; for use when 
 cold. 
 
 1151. WALNUT VINEGAR. 
 
 Put green walnut-shells into a brine 
 of salt and water strong enough' to float 
 an egg ; let them lie covered in this ten 
 or twelve days ; take them out, and lay 
 them in the sun for a week ; put them 
 into a jar, and pour boiling vinegar oil 
 them ; in about a week or ten days pour 
 off the vinegar, make it boiling hot, and 
 pour over them again. In a month it 
 will be fit for use, and will be found ex- 
 cellent to eat with cold meat, and par- 
 ticularly useful in making sauces. 
 
 1152. CUCUMBER VINEGAR. 
 
 Pare and slice fifteen large cucumbers, 
 and put them in a stone jar, with three 
 pints of vinegar, four large onions sliced, 
 two or three shalots, a little garlic, two 
 large spoonfuls of salt, three teaspoon- 
 fuls of pepper, and half a teaspoonful of 
 cayenne. After standing four days, give 
 the whole a boil : when cold, strain, and 
 filter the liquor through paper. 
 
 1153. CAMP VINEGAR. 
 
 Slice a large head of garlic, and put it 
 into a wide-mouthed bottle, with half an 
 ounce of cayenne, two teaspoonfuls of 
 
VINEGARS. 
 
 401 
 
 real soy, two of walnut ketchup, four 
 anchovies chopped, one pint of vinegar, 
 and enough cochineal to give it the color 
 of lavender-drops. Let it stand six 
 weeks ; then strain off quite clear, and 
 keep in small bottles sealed up. 
 
 Another : Infuse in a quart of the best 
 white- wine vinegar, a quarter of a pint 
 of walnut ketchup, the same quantity of 
 mushroom ketchup, and the same quan- 
 tity of soy, tialf an ounce of cayenne, 
 four heads of garlic, ten shalots, two 
 ounces of black and two ounces of white 
 pepper, the same quantity of pimento 
 and ginger, one ounce of nutmeg, three 
 blades of mace, and ten cloves, in a wide- 
 mouthed, two-quart bottle ; and cover 
 very closely with cork, leather, and blad- 
 der. Let it remain near the fire a month, 
 shaking it frequently. When any is 
 taken out, put in as much fresh vinegar. 
 This is not only a very fine sauce, but a 
 great preservative against infectious dis- 
 eases, if taken freely. 
 
 1154. NASTTJETICTM VINEGAE. 
 
 Pick full-blown nasturtium flowers ; 
 fill a wide-mouthed bottle with them ; 
 add half a clove of garlic and a moderate- 
 sized chalot chopped ; pour as much vine- 
 gar as the bottle will take; in two 
 months' time rub the whole through a 
 fine sieve; add a little cayenne pepper 
 and salt. 
 
 1155.-TAEEAGON AND ELDEE-FLOWEE 
 VINEGAE. 
 
 Take either the young leaves of tarra- 
 gon when the plant is going into bloom, 
 or the buds of elder-flowers, and to 
 every half peck put one gallon of vine- 
 gar, leaving it for a fortnight in a jug to 
 ferment. Then drain it through a flannel 
 ba^, put into it a small bit of dissolved 
 isinglass, and bottle it. 
 
 The flavor of the. herbs may also be 
 extracted by boiling the herbs or leaves 
 in vinegar, without fermentation : a mix- 
 ture of both is very agreeable. 
 
 1156.-EASPEEEEY YINEGAB. 
 
 To one quart of common vinegar put 
 two quarts of fresh raspberries ; let them 
 stand twenty-four hours; then drain 
 them off, but do not squeeze them. Put 
 in two quarts more, let them stand as 
 before, and this must be repeated a third 
 time. After which, put the vinegar into 
 a jar, measure it, and to every pint put 
 one pound of lumr^-sugar. Set the jar 
 up to the neck in boiling water, and let 
 the vinegar boil for ten minutes^ stirring 
 it frequently. Thero should on no ac- 
 count be fewer raspberries than the pro- 
 portion mentioned, and the vinegar will 
 not be fit for use until the following sum- 
 mer. 
 
 1157.-SUGAE YINEGAE. 
 
 To every gallon of water put two 
 pounds of coarse brown sugar. Boil 
 and skim this. Put it to cool in a clean 
 tub; when about lukewarm, add a slice 
 of bread soaked in fresh yeast- Barrel 
 it in a week, and set it in the sun in 
 summer or by the fire in winter, for six 
 months, without stopping the bung-hole ; 
 but cover it with thin canvass or an in- 
 verted bottle to keep out the flies. 
 
 1158.-CIDEE YINEGAE. 
 Put a pound of white sugar to a gal- 
 lon of cider, and shaking them well to- 
 gether, let them ferment for four months ; 
 a strong and well-colored vinegar-will be 
 the result. 
 
 1159.-FLAYOEED YINEGAES. 
 
 These aro a cheap and agreeable addi- 
 tion to sauces, hashes, &c. For one, infuse 
 a hundred red chilis, fresh gathered, into a 
 quart of good vinegar; let them stand 
 ten days, shaking the bottle every day. 
 A half ounce of cayenne will answer the 
 same purpose. This is good in melted 
 butter for fish sauce. &c. 
 
 1160. CELEET YINEGAE. 
 
 Pound a half ounce of celery seed, and 
 
402 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 steep it for ten days in a quart of vine- 
 gar ; strain and bottle it. 
 
 1161. HOESEEADISH VINEGAE. 
 Pour a quart of strong vinegar, boil- 
 ing hot ; oa three ounces of scraped horse- 
 radish and a teaspoonful of pounded 
 black pepper, and half the quantity of 
 cayenne. Let it stand four days, tightly 
 covered, then strain .and put it in the 
 cruet for use. It is good on cold roast 
 beefj and excellent in the gravy for chops, 
 steaks, &c. 
 
 1162. GOOSEBERRY VINEGAR. 
 
 Boil water, and when cold put to every 
 three quarts one quart of bruised goose- 
 berries in a large tub. Let them remain 
 sixty hours, stirring often ; then strain 
 through a hair bag, and to each gallon of 
 liquor add one pound of the coarsest 
 sugar. Put it into a barrel, and a toast 
 and yeast ; cover tbe bung- hole with a 
 bit of slate. Set the barrel in the sun, 
 observing that the cask be well painted, 
 and the iron hoops all firm. The greater 
 the quantity of sugar and fruit, the 
 stronger the vinegar ; and as this is parti- 
 cularly useful* for pickles, it might be well 
 to make it of double the strength for that 
 purpose. 
 
 1163. CHILI VINEGAR. 
 
 Fill a bottle with the chilis or capsi- 
 cums each of which will impart the 
 proper warmth of flavor and cover them 
 with vinegar; cork it up closely, let it 
 stand for three weeks or a month, then 
 pour off the vinegar, and fill up the bottle 
 again: chilis are the most commonly 
 used, but good capsicums will flavor 
 several additions of vinegar. If capsi- 
 cums are not procurable, put one ounce 
 of cayenne pepper to a quart of .vinegar, 
 and let it stand some time, shaking it 
 occasionally. Then strain it off, and fill 
 the bottle up again. ^ 
 
 1164. LEMON FLAVORING FOR PUDDINGS. 
 Peel six lemons very thin indeed ; put 
 the peel into a glass bottle, and add a 
 table- spoonful of bitter almonds,blanched, 
 or the same quantity of peach or apri- 
 cot kernels. Cover the whole with 
 brandy; shake it frequently, and in a 
 month strain it, and if kept closely cork- 
 ed it will keep for years. 
 
 1165. MUSHROOM KETCHUP. 
 
 Take the full-grown flaps of freshly- 
 gathered mushrooms, crush them with 
 the hands, throw a handful of salt into 
 every peck, and let them stand a night or 
 two ; then put them into pans, and set 
 them in a quick oven for twelve hours ; 
 strain them through a hair sieve, and 
 press out all the juice. To every gallon 
 of liquor put of cloves, Jamaica and black 
 pepper, and ginger, one ounce each, and 
 half a pound of common salt. Set it on 
 a slow fire, and let it boil until half the 
 liquor is wasted ; then put it into another 
 vessel, and, when cold, strain and bottle 
 it ; at the same time corking it up close- 
 ly, and covering the cork with oiled 
 paper. 
 
 Or: Take the largest broad mush- 
 rooms, break them into an earthen pan, 
 strew salt over, and stir them now and 
 then for several days, till there is a thick 
 scum over : strain and boil the liquor 
 with Jamaica and black peppers, mace, 
 ginger, a clove or two, and some mustard 
 seed. Cayenne pepper is too hot, but a 
 very little chili vinegar is an improve- 
 ment. When cold, bottle it, and secure 
 the corks as above, leaving the spice in. 
 At the end of three months strain the 
 liquor and boil it with fresh spice, which 
 put into the bottles ; and in a cool place 
 it will keep two or three years. 
 
 We strongly recommend the addition 
 of a moderate quantity of port wine 
 from half a pint to not quite a pint to 
 every four quarts both as greatly im- 
 
KETCHUPS. 
 
 403 
 
 proving the flavor of the ketchup and en- 
 suring its better preservation. 
 
 With regard to the spice, care should 
 be taken not to allow it to overpower the 
 natural flavor of the vegetable. 
 
 1166. WALNUT KETCHUP. 
 
 Thoroughly bruise one hundred and 
 twenty young walnuts ; put to them 
 L three-quarters of a pound of fine salt and 
 quart of vinegar ; stir them every day 
 >r a fortnight ; then strain ; squeeze the 
 fquor from them through a cloth ; add 
 ft4liis one ounce of whole black pepper, 
 r cloves, half an ounce of nutmeg 
 [ised. half an ounce of ginger, and a 
 blades of mace. Boil the whole fc for 
 half an hour; strain and bottle it for 
 use. 
 
 Walnut Ketchup of the finest quality 
 Boil or simmer a gallon of the express- 
 ed juice of walnuts when they are tender, 
 and skim it well ; then put in two pounds 
 of anchovies, bones, and liquor, ditto of 
 shalots, one ounce of cloves, ditto of 
 mace, ditto of pepper, and one clove of 
 garlic. Let all simmer till the shalots 
 sink ; then put the liquor into a pan till 
 cold ; bottle and divide the spice to each. 
 Cork closely, tie the bladder over, and 
 jr.ut it in small bottles. 
 
 It will keep twenty years in the 
 greatest perfection, but is not fit for use 
 the first year. Be very careful to ex- 
 press the juice at home, for it is generally 
 adulterated if bought. 
 
 Irish mode : Take a few hundred 
 green walnuts, scoop out all the whites, 
 beat them in a mortar, and strain the 
 juice through a cloth ; let it stand a day 
 and night, strain it, and pour it off clear. 
 To one pint of this liquor put half a pint 
 of vinegar with half a pound of anchovies, 
 and to each pint thus made a clove or 
 two of garlic, two or three shalots, some 
 horseradish, and one onion cut in quar- 
 ters ; boil it two hours, and then strain 
 
 it off. When strained add to every pint 
 of liquor half a quarter of 'an ounce of 
 mace, the same quantity of cloves, of 
 nutmeg, and of whole black pepper, half 
 a pint of port wine, and two table-spoon- 
 fuls of soy. Boil them together for half 
 an hour. Then pour it off into an earthen 
 jar, and let it remain covered until it is 
 cold ; bottle it off into clean dry bottles, 
 distributing the spice equally in each ; 
 cork it down closely ; take care in boiling 
 to keep the saucepan covered. 
 
 1167. CUCUHBEK KETCHUP. 
 
 Take an equal quantity of large cucum- 
 bers and large onions, pare and slice 
 them ; throw over them a handful of salt, 
 and let them stand all night in a sieve 
 placed over a pan. Take the liquor and 
 boil it up. with a quarter of a pound of 
 anchovies to every dozen of cucumbers, 
 one pint of white wine, a nutmeg, a 
 quarter of an ounce of mace, and half an 
 ounce of whole pepper ; strain it, and 
 when cold bottle it ; tie it down with 
 bladder. It will keep for two years. 
 
 The Suffolk Receipt. Take a dozen 
 well-grown cucumbers and four large 
 onions, slice them into an earthen pan 
 with a good handful of salt ; let them 
 stand till the liquor begins to run, break 
 them into small pieces, and let the whole 
 stand another day and night : then strain 
 it off; to every quart put the same quan- 
 tity of white, but not sweet wine, half a 
 pound of anchovies, and a large stick of 
 horseradish ; boil them together for half 
 an hour, then strain it again, and to 
 every quart put a quarter of an ounce of 
 white pepper, half the quantity of mace 
 and nutmeg, all pounded, and boil it well 
 again. When cold, bottle it with the 
 spice, and put a piece of ginger into each 
 bottle. A tablespoonful in a sauceboat- 
 ful of cream or melted butter makes de- 
 licious white sauce for fowls or made 
 dishes of veal. 
 
404: 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 1168. TOMATO KETCHUP. 
 . Take two dozen of ripe tomatoes and a 
 handful of salt ; slice the tomatoes, and 
 put a layer into a jar, sprinkle salt over 
 it. then another layer of tomatoes and 
 salt, until the jar is full. Stir the con- 
 tents now and then for three or four 
 days, keeping the jar in a warm place by 
 the fire ; at the expiration of which time 
 press the juice from the tomatoes by 
 rubbing them with a wooden spoon 
 through a sieve, and boil it with mace, 
 pepper, allspice, ginger, and cloves, in the 
 proportion of about two ounces in all to 
 one quart of juice, a few blades of mace, 
 twelve cloves, a spoonful of pounded 
 ginger, and the remainder pepper and all- 
 spice. In three months boil it again 
 with fresh spice. 
 
 1169. TOMATO SAUCE FOR WINTER USE. 
 One peck of tomatoes, six onions sliced, 
 two heads of celery, a dozen shalots, one 
 ounce of cayenne pepper, half an ounce 
 of black pepper, one ounce of mace in 
 powder. Slice them into a well-tinned 
 saucepan, mixing the Reasoning with them 
 as they are cut up ; boil, keeping them 
 well stirred ; when thoroughly soft, drain 
 off the water, and rub through a hair 
 sieve. Boil it again until it is as thick 
 as apple-sauce Put it into bottles, and 
 cork close. Put the bottles into a stew- 
 pan, fill it with cold water, and let it 
 boil for twenty minutes. Keep in a cool 
 place. Examine the bottles occasionally, 
 an.d if there is the least indication of a 
 change turn it into the kettle again, boil 
 and skim it, keeping it well stirred from 
 the bottom that it may not adhere, and 
 put it into the bottles again. When re- 
 quired for use, warm what is wanted 
 with a little gravy. It is as nice as when 
 fresh done, and will be found excellent 
 with calf's head or brains, veal, beef, 
 mutton, pork, or goose. An onion or a 
 shalot, boiled in the gravy with which 
 it is mixed, will be an improvement. 
 
 1170. CAMP KETCHUP. 
 
 Take two quarts of old strong beer 
 and one of white wine, add a quarter of 
 a pound of anchovies, three ounces of 
 shalots peeled, half an ounce of mace, 
 the same of nutmeg, three large races of 
 ginger cut in slices ; put all together over 
 a moderate fire till one third is wasted. 
 The next day bottle it with the spice and 
 the shalots. It will keep for many 
 years. 
 
 Or : A pint of claret, the same quan- 
 tity of ketchup, four ounces of ancho- 
 vies, one ounce of fresh lemon-peel pared 
 thin, two cloves of garlic minced fine, 
 half an ounce of allspice, the same of 
 black and of red pepper, one drachm of 
 celery-seed bruised, and half a pint of 
 pickle-liquor. Put these ingredients into 
 a wide-mouthed bottle ; stop it close, 
 shake it every day for a fortnight, and 
 then strain it off. 
 
 1171. SEVEN-YEARS' KETCHUP. 
 
 Take two quarts of the oldest strong 
 beer, put to it one quart of red wine, 
 three-quarters of a pound of anchovies, 
 three ounces of shalots peeled, half an 
 ounce of mace, the same of nutmegs, 
 quarter of an ounce of cloves, three large 
 races of ginger cut in slices, and boil all 
 together over a moderate fire till one- 
 third is wasted. When quite cold put 
 it into a large jar, covered up, and leave 
 it there for a week or two until the sedi- 
 ment is wasted, and the clear liquor is 
 perfectly transparent; then strain it 
 through a fine hair sieve, taste it, and 
 add to it a little of any essence of spice, 
 oil, or vinegar, which you think may im- 
 prove it, and, if the liquid be not lucidly 
 clear, give it one smart boil : let it rest 
 till cool, and bottle it in very small bot- 
 tles to prevent its frequent exposure to 
 the air. 
 
 It will improve by age, and may be 
 carried on a voyage round the world. 
 
 As may also 
 
STOREROOM SAUCES. 
 
 405 
 
 Sauce d la Militaire, made thus : 
 Put into an earthen pot six shalots 
 sliced, a clove of garlic split, two laurel- 
 leaves, a handful of thyme, basil, and tar- 
 ragon-leaves, half an ounce of mustard- 
 seed bruised, one teaspoonful of grated 
 Seville orange-peel, quarter of an ounce 
 of cloves, the same quantity of mace, 
 half an ounce of long pepper, two ounces 
 of salt, the juice of a lemon, six spoon- 
 fuls of the strongest vinegar, and half a 
 pint of white wine. Stop the pot very 
 closely, and put it into an oven, or upon 
 hot ashes, for twenty-four hours, to al- 
 low the ^whole to infuse properly. Then 
 allow it to settle, and strain it until it is 
 quite clear : bottle it, and close the bot- 
 tles tightly : a very small quantity will 
 be sufficient, and it may be used with all 
 sorts of meat, game, or fish. 
 
 1172. ARTIFICIAL SAUCES FOE FISH. 
 
 Those most commonly used are soy 
 and anchovy, merely mixed from the 
 cruets into melted butter by each indi- 
 vidual of the company ; the butter, when 
 brought to table in a prepared state, 
 should be made as follows : 
 
 For Anchovy 8auce, the foundation 
 should be some of the fish stock or gravy 
 which has been already made and kept 
 in the house for future use. Take two 
 or three anchovies, scrape, but do not 
 wash them, and boil them along with a 
 minced shalot in some of the gravy, until 
 they are soft enough to be pounded to a 
 paste. Then strain the gravy and thick- 
 en it with the body of the fish, after 
 having removed the heads, tails, and 
 bones. When that is done, put it, for 
 about 'a quarter of an hour, in the stew- 
 pan along with a glass of red wine, a 
 squeeze of lemon, and the necessary 
 quantity of butter. 
 
 The common mode is, to chop three an- 
 chovies, melt a quarter of a pound of 
 butter in a teacupful of the water in 
 26 
 
 which the fish is boiled, add a spoonful 
 of vinegar, and a little flour. Stir it 
 well over the fire until it is quite thick. 
 
 Or : Not unfrequently two or three 
 spoonfuls of the prepared essence of an- 
 chovy are put into the melted butter, 
 seasoned with a little cayenne pepper. 
 
 The savory store sauces for fish, as 
 prepared and sold in the shops, are all to 
 a certain degree agreeable to some pal- 
 ates, but anchovy and soy seem the pre- 
 vailing sort for fish. 
 
 1173.-STOKE SAUCES. 
 
 1. Take two wine-glasses of port, two 
 of walnut and four of mushroom ketchup, 
 four anchovies pounded, with two sha- 
 lots, a table-spoonful of soy, and a tea- 
 spoonful of cayenne pepper. Boil all 
 well together ; when cold, put it into 
 bottles well corked ; it will keep good 
 for more than a twelvemonth. 
 
 2. Take half an ounce of mace, one 
 ounce each of cloves, ginger, and allspice, 
 one pound of anchovies, a bottle of either 
 white or red wine, half a pint of vine- 
 gar, a couple of shalots and a clove of 
 garlic chopped, and a stick of scraped 
 horseradish, together with a bundle of 
 pot-herbs. Let all simmer over a slow- 
 fire till the anchovies are dissolved ; then 
 strain the liquor, bottle it when cold, and 
 when wanted for use add a table-spoon- 
 ful of the sauce to quarter of a pound of 
 melted butter. 
 
 3. Thicken a quarter of a pound of 
 butter with flour, and brown it ; then put 
 to it one pound of the best anchovies cut 
 small, six blades of pounded mace, ten 
 cloves, forty berries of black pepper and 
 allspice, a few small onions, a fagot ,of 
 sweet herbs (namely, savory, thyme, ba- 
 sil, and knotted marjoram), and a little 
 parsley and sliced horseradish ; on these 
 pour half a pint of the best sherry and a 
 pint and a half of strong gravy. Sim- 
 mer all gently for twenty minutes, then 
 
4:06 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 strain it through a sieve, and bottle it 
 for use. The way of using it is, to boil 
 some of it in the butter while melting. 
 
 4. Put into a saucepan a pint of fine 
 port wine, a gill of mountain, half a pint 
 of fine walnut ketchup, twelve anchovies, 
 and the liquor that belongs to them, a 
 gill of walnut pickle, the rind and juice 
 of a large lemon, four or five shalots, 
 some cayenne to taste, three ounces of 
 scraped horseradish, three blades of mace, 
 and two teaspoonfuls of made mustard : 
 boil it all gently, till the rawness goes off, 
 then put it into small bottles for use. 
 Cork them very close, and seal the top. 
 
 5. Chop twenty-four anchovies, not 
 washed, and ten shalots, and scrape three 
 spoonfuls of horseradish ; which, with 
 ten blades of mace, twelve cloves, two 
 sliced lemons, half a pint of anchovy 
 liquor, a quart of hock or Rhenish wine, 
 and a pint of water, boil to a quart ; 
 then strain off; and when cold, add three 
 large spoonfuls of walnut ketchup. 
 
 All or any of these will be found ex- 
 cellent for family use ; as, when added 
 to any common sauce for fish, or even to 
 plain melted butter, a moderate quantity 
 will impart to it a very fine flavor, and 
 in many cases they may be used also for 
 meat, if eaten cold. 
 
 Pontac Ketchup is for this purpose 
 both very simple and very good. Put 
 ripe elderberries, picked from the stalk, 
 into a stone jar, with as much strong 
 vinegar as will cover them. Bake with 
 the bread ; -and, while hot, strain. Boil 
 the liquor with a sufficient quantity of 
 cloves, mace, peppercorns, and shalots. 
 to give it a fine flavor. When that is ob 
 tained, put in half a pound of the finest 
 anchovies to every quart of liquor ; stir, 
 and boil only until dissolved. When 
 cold, put it into pint bottles, and tie 
 double bladders over each cork. The 
 Bame method should be observed for pre- 
 serving all ketchups. 
 
 An excellent and not common Pickle, 
 called " Salade^ may be made thus : 
 
 Fill a pint stone jar with equal quan- 
 tities of onions, cucumbers, and sour ap- 
 ples, all cut into very thin slices, shaking 
 in, as you go on. one teaspoonful of salt 
 and three parts of a teaspoonful of cay- 
 enne. Pour in a wine-glass of soy, the 
 same of white wine, and fill up the jar 
 with vinegar. It will be fit for use the 
 same da} r . 
 
 Quirfs Sauce is also excellent. Half 
 a pint of common mushroom ketchup, 
 half a pint of walnut-liquor, eight an- 
 chovies, eight cloves of garlic, four bruis- 
 ed and four whole, three teaspoonfuls of 
 cayenne pepper, three of mushroom- 
 powder, all boiled together for five min- 
 utes, and bottled when cold. 
 
 1174. CAYENNE PEPPEE 
 
 May be made by pounding the dry pep- 
 pers, or chilis, to a fine powder, with 
 salt, and keeping it in bottles. 
 
 1175. FEENCH MUSTAED. 
 
 To mustard ground, add tarragon vine- 
 gar and oil, with salt and garlic. Tarra- 
 gon vinegar is made by covering the 
 leaves with vinegar, and steeping them 
 in it. 
 
 PASTE MEAT PIES FISH 
 PIES. 
 
 1176. VAEIOUS SOETS OF PASTE. 
 
 In making paste for pies great care 
 should be taken that the flour be well 
 dried; for the finer kinds of paste it 
 ought also to be sifted. The very best 
 salt butter is perhaps the best material 
 for making paste. Some persons employ 
 lard, or equal parts of lard and butter ; 
 and clarified dripping is an excellent sub- 
 stitute. 
 
PASTE RAISED PIES. 
 
 407 
 
 An adept in pastry never leaves any 
 part of it adhering to the board or dish 
 used in making. The best thing to make 
 it upon is a slab of marble or slate; 
 which substances cause less waste, being 
 cold and smooth. The coolest part of the 
 house, and of the day, should be chosen 
 for the process ; the hands should be 
 previously washed in very hot water, and 
 the less they touch the paste the better 
 and lighter it will prove ; nor should it 
 be rolled much. 
 
 In whatever way paste be made, wet- 
 ting it much will render it tough. 
 
 Salt butter of the best quality makes 
 a fine flaky crust ; for sweet things, wash 
 it. In making pie-crust lard is, however, 
 better than butter ; and in making the 
 paste it* is sometimes mixed with the 
 flour in a dry state. 
 
 Heating the oven properly is a very 
 essential point in baking the various sorts 
 of paste to be here enumerated. 
 
 Raised pies must be put into a quick 
 oven, or the crust will fall. The cook 
 should accurately know the proper heat 
 for each article, as opening the door to 
 observe their progress lets in the air, and 
 often spoils them. They require from 
 one half to a full hour more than when 
 baked in a dish. 
 
 1177 CEUST FOE EAISED PIES. 
 
 Boil water with a little fine lard, and 
 an equal quantity of fresh dripping, or 
 of butter, but not much of either. While 
 hot, mix this with as much flour as you 
 will want, making the paste as stiff as 
 you can to be smooth, which you will 
 make it by good kneading and beating it 
 with the rolling-pin. When qjiite smooth, 
 put a lump into a cloth, or under a pan } 
 to soak till nearly cold. 
 
 In raising paste it should be brought 
 to a firm consistence, and of sufficient 
 thickness to hold the meat together ; it 
 should therefore not be too rich, and it 
 
 is easier to be worked if moderately 
 warm than cold. The proper way to 
 raise the crust is by placing the left hand 
 on the lump of paste, and with the right 
 keep working it up the back of the hand, 
 till all be of the proper shape and thick- 
 ness; a mould, or a decanter, may be 
 used. When worked into the desired 
 form -the meat is then put into the pie ; 
 and, when quite full, the lid is put on and 
 fixed to the wall or side ; the top being 
 ornamented with some device, also made 
 of paste. Before putting it in the oven 
 glaze it all over with white of egg. 
 
 Those who have not a good hand at 
 raising crust may roll the paste of a 
 proper thickness, and cut out the top and 
 bottom of the pie, then a long piece for 
 the sides ; then cement the bottom to the 
 sides with egg, bringing the former 
 rather farther out, and pinching both to- 
 gether; put egg between the edges of 
 the paste to make it adhere at the sides. 
 Fill the pie, put on the cover, and pinch 
 it and the side crust together. The 
 same mode of uniting the paste is to be 
 observed if the sides are pressed into a 
 tin form, in which the paste must be 
 baked, after it shall be filled and cov- 
 ered : * the tin should be buttered, and 
 carefully taken off when done enough ; 
 and as the form usually makes the sides 
 of a lighter color than is proper, the pie 
 should be put into the oven again for one 
 quarter of an hour. 
 
 For Venison Pasty or Perigord Pie. 
 To one quarter of a peck of fine flour 
 use two and a half pounds of butter and 
 four eggs : mix into paste with warm 
 water, and work it smooth and to a good 
 consistence. Put a paste round the in- 
 side, but not to the bottom of the dish j 
 
 * In lining a tin form, put in the sides first, hav- 
 ing cut the paste rather deeper than the tin, so as to 
 allow for its lying a^ little on the bottom, and that 
 no joint may appear ; then cut a piece sufficiently 
 large to cover the whole bottom. 
 
408 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 and let the cover be pretty thick, to bear 
 the long continuance in the oven. 
 
 1178. PUFF PASTE FOE PATTIES OE FIEST 
 COUESE DISHES. 
 
 One pound of butter salt or fresh, and 
 one pound of flour will make a good 
 dish of patty cases, or a large case for a 
 vol-au-vent, and the remainder into a 
 good dish of second course pastry. 
 
 Put your flour upon your board, work 
 finely in with your hands lightly a quar- 
 ter of the butter, then add water suffi- 
 cient to make it the stiffness or softness 
 of the remaining butter ; each should be 
 the same substance ; work it up smooth, 
 then roll it out longways half an inch 
 thick ; place the remainder of the butter 
 cut in slices half way on the paste ; dust 
 flour lightly over it, and double it up, 
 press it down with your rolling-pin, let 
 it lie a few minutes, then roll it three 
 times thinner each time, letting it lie a 
 few minutes between each roll, keep it 
 free from sticking to the board or rolling- 
 pin. This paste is ready for patty cases 
 or vol-au-vent, or meat pies. 
 
 1179. PUFF PASTE. 
 
 To obtain this in perfection much will 
 depend on the quality of the butter 
 used, and on its being rolled out or 
 turned a sufficient number of times, so 
 that the butter may be mixed with the 
 paste in minute layers. Salt butter will 
 make as good, if not better paste than 
 fresh. When salt butter is used, it 
 should be broken into small pieces, and 
 put into a pan or pail of clean cold 
 water ; well work or squeeze it between 
 the hands in the water, which will de- 
 prive it of the greatest portion of the 
 salt it contains ; take it from the water 
 and put it on a cloth, and mould or work 
 it well, in the same manner as you would 
 a piece of paste ; when the water is all 
 worked out, and the bbtter appears dry 
 and firm, make it in a roll and put it in 
 
 a cold place for use. Fresh butter 
 should be moulded in the same manner 
 as directed for salt, but it does not re- 
 quire being first put into water. In 
 summer a few pieces of ice may be put 
 into the water with the butter, to harden 
 it. 
 
 Weigh one pound of butter and one 
 pound of sifted flour. Take two ounces 
 of the butter and rub in with the flour ; 
 make a hole in the middle, in which put 
 a teaspoonful of salt, and pour in suffi- 
 cient cold water to make it into a paste 
 of nearly the same consistence as the 
 butter. This should be more particularly 
 observed in summer, as the heat then 
 causes the butter to become very soft 
 during the rolling of the paste, and to 
 break through the surface, unless the 
 dough is made of considerably less con- 
 sistence in the first place, in order to al- 
 low for this. To each pound allow two 
 eggs, well-beaten and mixed with the 
 water. 
 
 Mix the dough into a clear, smooth 
 paste, without toughness, by rubbing it 
 well with the heel of the right hand on 
 the board until it has acquired a clear, 
 smooth, shining appearance ; mould it 
 into a round lump, then press all the 
 moisture from the remainder of the but- 
 ter, and form it into a ball, taking care 
 not to soften it ; put this upon the paste 
 and press it down, then enclose it with 
 the paste like an apple-dumpling ; flour 
 the marble well and roll it out ; this is 
 called the " first turn ; " then fold it in 
 three, and roll it out again, which will be 
 a second turn ; now fold it again in the 
 same manner, and put it in a cold place, 
 if convenient on ice, covered with a damp 
 
PASTE. 
 
 409 
 
 cloth, until it is required to be rolled out 
 for use. Experience alone can deter- 
 mine when the paste has been sufficiently 
 rolled. 
 
 1180. VEKY LIGHT PASTE. 
 
 Mix the flour and water together, roll 
 the paste out, and lay bits of butter 
 upon it. Then beat up the white of an 
 egg, and brush it all over the paste be- 
 fore it is folded ; repeat this when rolling 
 out, and adding the butter each time till 
 the whole of the white of egg is used. 
 It will make the paste very flaky. 
 
 1181. TEANSPAEENT CEUST FOE TAETS. 
 
 Beat an egg, till it be quite thin ; have 
 ready twelve ounces of the purest, well- 
 washed butter, without salt, melted with- 
 out being oiled ; and when cool mix the 
 egg with it, and stir it into one pound of 
 fine flour well dried. Make the paste 
 very thin ; line the pattypans as quickly 
 as you can, and. when putting the tarts 
 into the oven, brush them over with 
 water, and sift sugar on them. If they 
 are baked in a lightly heated oven, they 
 will look beautiful. 
 
 1182. BEIOCHE PASTE. 
 
 This paste is essential in many of the 
 finer kinds of cookery, and, though 
 rather troublesome to make, will repay 
 the pains bestowed, since, with a small 
 addition of sauce, it will afford an ex- 
 cellent side-dish in itself, and it will enter 
 into the composition of, and improve, all 
 the more elaborate entrees. Take seven 
 fresh eggs two pounds of flour dried and 
 warmed at the fire, and one pound of 
 fresh butter. Take half a pound of this 
 flour, and pour into the middle of it a 
 dessert-spoonful of yeast, which has been 
 prepared by pouring water over it, stir- 
 ring it, and allowing it to stand to settle, 
 and then draining the water off. It is 
 the sediment which must be employed. 
 Pour a little warm water over the yeast. 
 
 and mix the paste up with it, which 
 forms the leaven ; flour the pan, lay the 
 leaven in it before the fire to rise, and 
 slit it on the top. As soon as the paste 
 has risen, proceed thus : Make a hole in 
 the middle of the remaining flour, put 
 into it a little salt, about a saltspoonful, 
 the same quantity of powdered sugar, 
 to take off any bitter taste in the yeast, 
 and a little water to melt it ; the butter 
 broken into small pieces, and the eggs : 
 work it all well together, and knead it 
 thoroughly, spreading it out and working 
 it well : then spread it out entirely, and 
 lay the yeast or leavened paste all over 
 it, taking the greatest care in kneading 
 and shifting the paste about to mix both 
 well together. When completed, flour a 
 towel, wrap the paste up in it. and put it 
 into a pan ; if in cold weather in a warm 
 situation, and if in hot weather in a cold 
 one. It is best made a day before it is 
 wanted. Very minute pieces, shaped in 
 any way, add greatly to the excellence 
 of soup, to be boiled with it, or stewed 
 in the gravy of a vol-au-vent, and strewed 
 over the top. It is cut into shapes also, 
 and fried as the accompaniment of brais- 
 ed dishes of every kind. It is an ex- 
 quisite case for lobster and other patties, 
 or, brushed over with egg, may be fried 
 in shapes for a side-dish : or it may be 
 boiled in cups, six in a dish, and served 
 up with asparagus cut small and heaped 
 upon the top, and a white sauce round. 
 In fact, a clever cook, by employing dif- 
 ferent flavoring ingredients, either sweet 
 or savory, may make endless dishes of 
 brioche. It should not, however, predom- 
 inate ; and, therefore, it is best only to 
 make a small quantity at a time, where 
 the consumption of the family is not great. 
 It will not keep long. 
 
 1183. MEAT PIES, PATTIES, &c. 
 
 There are few articles of cookery more 
 generally liked than relishing pies, if 
 
410 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 properly made ; and they may be formed 
 of a great variety of things. 
 
 Raised Pies may be made of any kind 
 of flesh, fish, fruit, or poultry, if baked in 
 a wall of paste instead of a baking-dish ; 
 but they are generally eaten cold, and 
 made o large and savory as to remain a 
 long time before being consumed, for which 
 reason they also bear the name of 
 "standing pies." In making them, the 
 cook should always take care to have a 
 good stock that will jelly, made from the 
 bones and trimmings, to fill up the pie 
 when it comes from the oven, and also 
 that when cold there may be enough 
 jelly. For want of this precaution pies 
 become dry before they can be eaten. 
 The materials are of course frequently 
 varied, but the mode of preparation is so 
 nearly the same as net to require the re- 
 cital of more than a few prominent re- 
 ceipts. 
 
 1184. SEASONING FOE EAISED PIES. 
 
 Three pounds of salt dried and pound- 
 ed, three ounces of white pepper, half 
 an ounce of cayenne pepper, two ounces 
 of cloves, two ounces of allspice, one 
 ounce of basil, one ounce of marjoram, 
 one ounce of thyme, one ounce of bay- 
 leaf, one ounce of nutmeg, one "Cunce and 
 a half of mace. 
 
 Pound the spices and herbs by them- 
 selves and sift through a fine sieve ; then 
 mix with the salt, and put away in a 
 stoppered bottle : three-quarters of an 
 ounce is sufficient for one pound of farce, 
 and half an ounce for one pound of boned 
 game. 
 
 1185.-JELLY FOE MEAT OE EAISED PIES, 
 
 Take a quart of veal gravy, dissolve 
 two ounces of isinglass in a little of it 
 add the remainder with a quarter of a 
 pint of tarragon vinegar ; boil all together 
 for a quarter of an hour. Clarify it with 
 the whites of six eggs, then pass i 
 through a bag. 
 
 1186. PIE EAISED HOT, EUSSIAN. 
 
 Take a salmon and a liver, cut them 
 nto scollops, and simmer both, but sep- 
 arately, in some butter, with shred 
 parsley, mushrooms, truffles, shalots, 
 , pepper, nutmeg ; mince the yolks of 
 a dozen hard eggs. Make a raised crust 
 n l^ie usual manner, put in a layer of 
 rice previously boiled in chicken broth, 
 but cold, as should be all the materials ; 
 on this lay some of the scollops .of sal- 
 mon, on which strew a layer of egg, then 
 a layer of liver, strew the egg, then the 
 salmon again, and so on till yom- pie is 
 full j then pour in the butter and herbs, 
 cover the whole with rice, and finish the 
 pie according to the above directions. 
 
 118T. PIE EAISED, TO BE SEEVED HOT. 
 
 Make a stiff paste as directed for raised 
 pies, which mix with warm water j when 
 well mixed together roll it out thin, cut 
 a piece out for the bottom and two for 
 the sides, according to the shape of the 
 dish ; egg the edges you intend to join, 
 and press them well together, so that the 
 joining may not be seen ; shape it, gar- 
 nish it with leaves or festoons, according 
 to your taste, fill it nearly to the top 
 with bran, egg it, and let it be baked in 
 a moderate oven ; when done of a light 
 color turn out the bran, and set it ready 
 for what you intend to put in, which may 
 be cutlets of mutton stewed with vege- 
 tables, partridge farced with a brown 
 sauce, chickens cut up, a ragout in a 
 brown sauce, or stewed eels. 
 
 1188. -EAISED PIE OF FOWLS. (Soyer.) 
 
 Make the paste and forcemeat, bone a 
 young fowl, which lay flat upon a clean 
 cloth, breast downwards; season the in- 
 terior with a little pepper, salt, and chop- 
 ped onions ; spread a layer of forcemeat 
 over, half an inch in thickness ; have ten * 
 pieces of veal, of the thickness of your 
 finger, and the same length as the fowl, 
 
1EAT PIES. 
 
 411 
 
 and the same number of pieces of fat 
 bacon, lay half of the veal and bacon al- 
 ternately upon the fowl, well seasoned 
 with pepper and salt, cover over with 
 more forcemeat, then another layer of 
 veal and ham, cover with more forcemeat ; 
 then roll the fowl over, making the skin 
 meet at the back ; you have previously 
 lined a raised pie mould with paste, then 
 line the pie with forcemeat, half an inch 
 in thickness, lay in the fowl, sprinkle a 
 little pepper and salt over, cover with 
 the remainder of the forcemeat, to form 
 a dome, place a pat of butter and two 
 bay-leaves upon the top, and bake ; 
 when done, pour in a gill of gravy made 
 from the bones of the fowl j serve cold. 
 
 1189. EAISED PIE OF PHEASANT. 
 
 Proceed precisely as for the pie of fowl, 
 but of course using a pheasant ; an old 
 one would answer the purpose if kept 
 long enough, but all the' sinews of the 
 legs must be taken out in boning it ; the 
 fillets of the breast also, being very thick, 
 may be partly cut out and used with the 
 veal for the interior ; if in a situation to 
 obtain rabbits, the fillets of them might 
 be used instead of veal for the interior, 
 and the legs for forcemeat. 
 
 For gravy, break up the bones of the 
 birds, which put into a stewpan with a 
 glass of sherry, an onion, a few sprigs of 
 thyme, parsley, and a bay-leaf j let it 
 simmer a minute over the fire, then add 
 a pint of broth and a little isinglass or 
 gelatine, let the whole simmer for an 
 hour, giving it a nice brown color, when 
 pass it through a sieve into a small stew- 
 pan, place it again upon the fire, skim off 
 all the fat, and reduce it to half a pint, 
 and when the pie is baked, pour it in, 
 shaking the pie a little to mix well; 
 serve When cold. 
 
 Pies of grouse, partridges, moor fowls, 
 &c., are made precisely in the same man- 
 ner, using one or more according to the 
 
 size you wish to make your pie. The 
 fillets of hares are likewise excellent in 
 pies, whilst the legs might be jugged or 
 converted into soup. 
 
 Capons, poulards, green geese, or duck- 
 lings, may also be served in a pie, (pro- 
 ceeding as directed for fowls),, by manag- 
 ing the size of the pie, and seasoning in 
 proportion. 
 
 Pigeon pie can also be made in the 
 same way, but then the meat with which 
 the interior of the birds are filled must 
 be cut much smaller, and requires less 
 time in cooking. 
 
 1190. HOT LAMB PIE (raised.) 
 
 To make this an oval, a tin or copper 
 pie mould would be required, which you 
 would choose of a size most generally 
 useful. Butter the interior of the 
 mould, which stand upon a baking sheet, 
 then make the following paste : put a 
 quarter of a pound of butter and the 
 same of chopped suet into a stewpan, 
 with three-quarters of a pint of water, 
 or more if required, and let the whole 
 boil together one minute, when strain it 
 through a sieve into a basin containing 
 two pounds of flour, mixing it first with 
 a spoon, and when cool enough with the 
 hand, until forming a smooth paste ; 
 when partly cold roll it out into a sheet 
 half an inch in thickness, with which line 
 the mould, pressing the paste evenly at 
 all parts ; have ready cut sufficient small 
 lamb chops from the loin, neatly cut 
 away the bones, and lay them round the 
 interior of the pie alternately with slices 
 of raw potatoes (a quarter of an inch in 
 thickness), season rather highly as you 
 procoed, with pepper, salt, chopped on- 
 ions, and parsley: make a neat cover 
 with the trimmings of the paste, and 
 bake it rather better than two hours in 
 a moderate oven ; when done lift the 
 cover, pour out as much of the fat as 
 possible, add a little gravy, and serve. 
 
412 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 1191. OTHER VARIOUS PIES. 
 
 Hot raised pies may also be made with 
 mutton by following the above directions. 
 They are also very good made with fillet 
 of beef cut into thin slices of the size of 
 the lamb chops, or of rump steak, by 
 laying a piece at the bottom, seasoning 
 and filling alternately with potatoes and 
 the meat ; teal and ham pies are also ex- 
 cellent, but the potatoes in them had 
 better be omitted, the veal, however, sea- 
 soned and dipped in flour. Pies may 
 also be made with veal sweetbread and 
 ham, but then about three parts of a 
 pint of white sauce should be poured in 
 after the pie is baked. Fowls or rabbits 
 may likewise be cut into joints, and put 
 into a stewpan, with a piece of butter, 
 previously well seasoning them with 
 pepper, salt, and chopped eschalots ; cover 
 the stewpan close, and leave it twenty 
 minutes over a slow fire, add a pint of 
 white sauce, and simmer ten minutes 
 longer ; when cold build them up in the 
 interior of the pie, which cover and bake 
 an hour in a warm oven. Pies of the 
 above description can of course be made 
 of any size, either large enough for a 
 family meal, or very small and round, 
 for a corner dish for a dinner party j 
 most people who are in the habit of mak- 
 ing them, keep two different-sized moulds 
 for the purpose. 
 
 1192.-RUMP8TEAK PIE. 
 
 Procure two pounds of rumpsteaks, 
 which cut into slices half an inch thick, 
 and season well with pepper and salt ; 
 dip each piece into flour, and lay them in 
 a small pie-dish, finishing the top in the 
 form of a dome ; add a wineglassful of 
 water, then have ready half a {found 
 of plain paste, cut off a small piece, 
 which roll into a band, and lay round 
 the edge of the dish, having previously 
 wetted it with a paste-brush dipped in 
 water, then roll out the remainder of the 
 paste to about the size of the dish, damp 
 
 the band of paste upon the dish, and lay 
 the other piece over, make a hole with a 
 knife at the top, press the edges evenly 
 down with your thumbs, trim the pie 
 round with a knife, egg over the top 
 with a paste-brush, and ornament it with 
 the trimmings of the paste, according to 
 fancy ; bake it rather better than an hour 
 in a moderate oven, and serve either hot 
 or cold. 
 
 1193. VEAL AND HAM PIE. 
 
 Cut about a pound and a half of veal 
 into thin slices, as also a quarter of a 
 pound of cooked ham ; season the veal 
 rather highly with white pepper and 
 salt, with which cover the bottom of the 
 dish, then lay over a few slices of ham, 
 then the remainder of the veal, finishing 
 with the remainder of the ham, add a 
 wine-glassful of water, and cover and 
 bake as directed for beef-steak pie : a 
 bay-leaf will be an improvement. 
 
 1194 MUTTON PIE. 
 
 Procure the chumps of three loins of 
 mutton, from which cut the meat in 
 moderately thin slices, put a layer at the 
 bottom of the dish, which season well 
 with chopped parsley, eschalots, pepper, 
 and salt ; then put a layer of slices of 
 raw potatoes and again a layer of mutton, 
 seasoning as before, proceeding thus to 
 the top, which form in a dome, finishing 
 with mutton, cover with paste, and bake 
 as direcred for rumpsteak pie. 
 
 1195. PATti I>E FOIES GRAS. 
 
 [This receipt is famished by Mr. DEL- 
 MONICO, expressly for this work.] 
 
 Prepare a stuffing of fresh pork, a 
 pound of lean to a pound and a half of 
 fat ; mince and chop it : add your pre- 
 paration of livers in tho same manner as 
 with truffles, seasoning the mixture with 
 salt, pepper, spices, and aromatic herbs 
 bruised and passed through a sieve. 
 Have in readiness two fine, fat livers, 
 
MKAT PIES. 
 
 413 
 
 well cleaned. Make ready a pie of two 
 and a half pounds of paste : surround 
 this pie with thin slices of fat, and, in 
 the bottom, place some stuffing : season 
 the livers, cover them with stuffing and 
 truffles, and place them in your pie or 
 dish, which fill up with stuffing and truf- 
 fles, placing on the top a piece of fresh 
 butter. Cover thi with slices of fat 
 and over it place a laurel-leaf. Moisten 
 the edge of the pie and cover it with a 
 crust of paste : fasten this on well, cut off 
 the edges equally and crimp or decorate 
 it. Make a covering of puff paste, and, 
 in the middle, make a hole which is call- 
 ed the chimney. Wash it over with 
 eggs and let it bake in an evenly-heated 
 oven, for three and a half hours. When 
 cold, fill it with good meat-jelly. 
 
 . 1196. LAMB PIE. 
 
 Cut a small neck of lamb into chops, 
 which must not be too fat. season them 
 lightly with pepper and salt, and lay 
 them in your pie-dish, with a few new 
 potatoes in slices, pour in a little water, 
 then cover and bake as directed for 
 rumpsteak pie. 
 
 1197. CHICKEN PIE. 
 
 Cut up a nice plump chicken into 
 joints, which lay upon a dish, and season 
 lightly with chopped parsley, white pep- 
 per, and salt, then lay the back, cut into 
 three pieces, at the bottom of a pie-dish 
 with the two legs on either side ; have 
 half a pound of cooked ham or bacon in 
 slices, a layer of which cover over, then 
 lay in the two wings, and over them the 
 breast, cut into two pieces, which, with 
 the remainder of the ham or bacon, form 
 into a dome in the middle, pour half a 
 pint of white sauce over, if handy, or a 
 little broth or water, cover with paste, 
 and bake as directed for the last. If no 
 white sauce, dip each piece lightly in 
 flour. 
 
 1198. GIBLET PIE. 
 
 When the giblets have been taken 
 
 from the goose, place them with the ex- 
 ception of the liver, but with the pinions, 
 feet, head, and neck, into boiling water 
 to blanch; remove the skin from the 
 feet and beak ; put into a stewpan a piece 
 of butter the size of a walnut, one onion 
 cut in slices, a bay-leaf, a little salt, 
 pepper, and sugar : place it on the fire 
 until the onion is brown; place in the 
 giblets with the head cut in two, let them 
 remain on the fire for about three minutes, 
 stirring them round, then add one quart 
 of boiling water, and let them stew gent- 
 ly for two hours, remove from the fire, 
 and let them get cold. Take a pie-dish 
 and place a piece of steak on the bottom, 
 then place over that the giblets with the 
 liver, and steak again over them, add the 
 liquor the giblets were stewed in, season 
 and cover with half puff paste. 
 
 1199. BABBIT PIE. 
 
 Cut a nice rabbit into joints, splitting 
 the head in halves, and lay them in luke- 
 warm water half an hour to disgorge, 
 then dry them upon a cloth, season well 
 with pepper, salt, chopped eshalots, pars- 
 ley, two bay-leaves, and a spoonful of 
 flour ; have also three-quarters of a pound 
 of uncooked streaked bacon, cut into 
 square pieces the size of walnuts, build 
 up the pieces of rabbit and bacon to- 
 gether, in a pie dish, commencing with 
 the worst pieces, and forming a dome ; 
 pour in a little water, cover with paste, 
 and bake as directed for rumpsteak pie. 
 
 1200. PIGEON PIE; 
 
 Line the bottom of a pie-dish with a 
 pound of rumpsteak, cut into slices not 
 too thin, seasoned with a little salt, 
 pepper, and cayenne, and dipped into 
 flour ; have ready picked and drawn a 
 couple of pigeons, cut off the feet, turn 
 the legs in, fold up the pinions of ,the 
 wings, and lay them breast to breast upon 
 the meat, have the yolks of four hard 
 boiled eggs, which put at the sides. 
 
THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 sprinkle a little pepper and salt over the 
 pigeons, lay a bay-leaf upon the top, pour 
 in a little water, cover with paste, stick 
 the feet in the top, and bake as directed 
 for the last. The pigeons may be stuffed 
 with a little veal stuffing, if handy. 
 
 1201.-PAETKIDGE PIE. 
 
 Line the bottom of a pie-dish with 
 slices of veal, cut moderately thick, and 
 rather lightly seasoned with white 
 pepper and salt; have ready picked, 
 drawn, and trussed, a couple of. young 
 partridges, pour one glass of sherry over 
 the veal, one of water, and lay in the 
 partridges breast to breast, laying a piece 
 of fat bacon over each, cover with paste, 
 sticking the feet of the partridges in the 
 top of the pie, and bake as before. 
 
 1202. GKOUSE PIE. 
 
 Koast, very underdone, a couple of nice 
 plump grouse ; when cold, cut into joints, 
 having the two wings, two legs, and the 
 breasts in two pieces each, season them 
 lightly, and lay them in a pie-dish, build- 
 ing them to form a dome, then break up 
 the back-bone and other trimmings, which 
 put into a stewpan, with a glass of sherry, 
 a bay-leaf, an onion in slices, a few sprigs 
 of parsley, three or four whole allspice, 
 set the stewpan over the fire a few min- 
 utes until the wine boils, when add half 
 a pint of brown sauce, and half a pint of 
 broth, stir it over a fire until again re- 
 duced to half a pint, strain it through a 
 sieve, over the grouse ; when quite cold 
 cover with paste, as directed for rump- 
 steak pie, and bake in a very hot oven ; 
 about half an hour would be sufficient, 
 as the paste requires to be laid on thinner, 
 the contents of the pie having been pre- 
 viously cooked. 
 
 1203. POT PIE. 
 
 Two pounds of veal meat, two pounds 
 of flour, one-quarter of a pound of lard 
 
 or butter, half a dozen potatoes, one- 
 quarter of a pound of pickled pork, cut 
 into small pieces. Make the paste very 
 soft, and roll it very thin ; put in the po- 
 tatoes and meat, then the paste, layer 
 after layer, with cold water enough to 
 cover it ; boil it half an hour slowly. 
 
 1204. -E^L PIE. 
 
 Skin and cleanse three good-sized 
 eels, which cut into pieces about two 
 inches in length, put a good-sized bunch 
 of parsley, thyme, and tt^ree bay-leaves, 
 all tied together, into a stewpan, with 
 an onion, into which }^ou have stuck four 
 cloves, a glass of port-wine, and a pint of 
 broth, lay in the pieces of eels, and set 
 them upon the fire to simmer for ten 
 minutes, take them out, laying them upon 
 a cloth to drain, skim off all the fat from 
 the stock the eels were cooked in, to 
 which add rather more than half a pint 
 of bi*bwn sauce, let the whole boil until 
 reduced to three parts of a pint, when 
 dress the pieces of eels up in a pie-dish, 
 strain the sauce over through a sieve, 
 and when cold, cover with paste, as di- 
 rected for rumpsteak pie, and bake about 
 an hour in a moderate oven ; serve it hot. 
 If for a small pie they may be used raw, 
 and season accordingly, after having roll- 
 ed each piece in flour. 
 
 1205. BEEFSTEAK PUDDING. 
 
 Put a pound of flour upon a dresser, 
 with which mix half a pound of beef 
 suet, very finely chopped, make a hole in 
 the middle, into which put a teaspoonful 
 of salt, and sufficient water to form a 
 rather stiffish paste, mix it well together, 
 using a little more flour to dry it and 
 prevent its sticking ; then lightly butter 
 the interior of a round-bottomed pudding 
 basin, roll out two-thirds of the paste to 
 half an inch in thickness, with which line 
 the basin ; have ready cut into slices, 
 about the size of the palm of the hand, 
 
MEAT PUDDINGS. 
 
 415 
 
 and a quarter of an inch in thickness, 
 two pounds of rutnpsteak with a little of 
 the fat included ; lay them upon a dish, 
 season with two teaspoonfuls of salt 
 and one of black pepper, sprinkle a little 
 flour over, move them about a little un- 
 til each piece is well covered with flour 
 and seasoning ; then lay them within the 
 paste, also putting in whatever seasoning 
 may remain upon the dish, (some add 
 two dozen of oysters, blanched and 
 bearded, which is excellent,) pour a gill 
 of water over, moistening the edges of 
 the paste ; then roll out the remainder of 
 the paste to form a lid, which place over, 
 pressing it down with the thumb, then 
 tie the basin in a pudding-cloth, and put 
 into a saucepan, containing about a gallon 
 of boiling water, and keep continually 
 boiling for nearly two hours, adding a 
 little more water occasionally to keep 
 up the quantity ; then take it up, untie 
 the cloth, run a sharp-pointed knife into 
 the pudding, and if the meat feels tender 
 it is done (if not, it will require more 
 boiling), turn it over upon your dish, lift 
 the basin carefully from it, and serve, 
 without opening the pudding to add 
 gravy, as many persons do, for a pudding 
 made as above ought to be full of gravy 
 when cut at table. 
 
 1206. MUTTON PUDDING. 
 
 Line a pudding-basin with paste, as 
 directed in the last ; then have ready cut 
 into slices the meat from two loin-chumps 
 of mutton, which Jay upon a dish, and 
 season with a teaspoonful of chopped 
 onions, the same of chopped parsley, 
 rather more than half that quantity of 
 black pepper, and salt in proportion; 
 then put a layer of meat into the pudding, 
 then a layer of raw potatoes cut into 
 slices ; proceeding thus until you have 
 filled it up, but finishing with meat, 
 cover it up as hi the last, likewise tie it 
 in a napkin, and boil, but rither better 
 
 than two hours would be sufficient ; serve 
 as before directed. 
 
 1207. LAMB PUDDING. 
 
 If convenient, procure the entire ribs 
 of a lamb, sawing off the breast almost 
 close to the lean part of the neck; 
 the breast may be cooked; cut the 
 neck into rather thin cutlets, which 
 season lightly with white pepper, salt, 
 and a little chopped parsley and onions ; 
 you have previously lined a pudding- 
 basin with paste as before, fill it with 
 the meat thus prepared, intermixing 
 a few new potatoes cut in- slices, finish 
 the pudding, boil, and serve as before <Ji- 
 rected. 
 
 1208. TEAL PUDDING. 
 
 Cut two pounds of veal from any part 
 of the leg into slices, about the size of 
 the palm of the hand, and a quarter of 
 an inch in thickness, put two ounces of 
 butter into a frying-pan, and when melt- 
 ed lay in the veal, and a few slices of 
 streaked bacon, season the whole with 
 pepper and a little salt, add one bay-leaf, 
 and a few sprigs of thyme; place the 
 pan over a slow fire, saute the veal gent- 
 ly tor. a quarter of an hour ; then take it 
 from theifire, and leave it in the pan un- 
 til cold, then have a pudding-basin lined 
 with paste as before, lay in the veal and 
 bacon, pouring the gravy over, cover, and 
 boil as before, but an hour would be suf- 
 ficient. 
 
 1209. POEK PUDDING. 
 
 Line a pudding-basin with paste as be- 
 fore, and spread three-quarters of a 
 p^und of sausage-meat of an equal thick- 
 ness over the interior, have a pound and 
 a half of lean pork, from the leg if pos- 
 sible, cut into square pieces of the size^ 
 of walnuts, which season rather highly 
 with pepper, salt, a teaspoonful of chopped 
 eschalots, and half that quantity of dried 
 
416 
 
 THE PEACTICAL HOUSEKEEPEE. 
 
 sage ; put the meat into the centre of the 
 pudding, cover over with a quarter of a 
 pound more sausage-meat, over which 
 put on the cover of paste, tie it in a 
 cloth, and boil two hours and a half, as 
 directed for beefsteak pudding. 
 
 1210 KIDNEY PUDDING. 
 
 Procure one ox or eight mutton kid- 
 neys, which cut into slices the thickness 
 of half-a-crown piece ; lay them upon a 
 dish, seasoning well with black pepper 
 and salt, and shaking one ounce of flour 
 over ; mix all well together, to absorb 
 the flour and seasoning; then have a 
 pudding basin, lined as directed for beef- 
 steak pudding, finish, boil, and serve as 
 there directed. 
 
 A pudding made with one pound of 
 steak and a beef kidney is also very ex- 
 cellent. 
 
 1211. EABBIT PUDDING. 
 
 Cut a rabbit up in joints, (splitting the 
 head in halves,) and lay them in a basin 
 of lukewarm water an hour to disgorge ; 
 line a pudding-basin with paste as di- 
 rected for rumpsteak pudding, dry the 
 pieces of rabbit upon a cloth, and lay 
 ' them in the pudding with half a pound 
 of streaked bacon cut into square pieces, 
 and seasoning rather highly with chopped 
 eschalots, salt, pepper, and chopped pars- 
 ley j cover, tie it in a cloth, boil it two 
 hours, and serve as before directed. 
 
 1212. OYSTER PIE. 
 
 As you open the oysters separate 
 them from the liquor, which strain ; par- 
 boil sweetbreads, and, cutting them in 
 slices, lay them and the oysters in layers ; 
 season very lightly with salt, pepper, and 
 mace ; then put half a teacupful of 
 liquor, and the same of veal gravy. 
 * Bake in a slow oven ; and before you 
 serve, put a teacupful of cream, a little 
 more oyster-liquor, and a cup of white 
 gravy, all warmed, but not boiled. 
 
 1218. OYSTER PIE. (English way.) 
 
 Lay a tender beefsteak in the bottom 
 of a dish and on it oysters and bread 
 crumbs, with pepper and salt. Fill the 
 dish with layers of beafsteak and oys- 
 ters ; pour over it the liquor of the oys- 
 ter, cover with a light paste and bake 
 twenty minutes in a quick oven. 
 
 1214. YORKSHIRE PUDDING. 
 
 Put six tablespoonfuls of flour into a 
 basin, with six eggs, a pinch of salt, and 
 a quarter of a pint of milk, mix well to- 
 gether with a wooden spoon, adding the 
 remaining three-quarters of a pint of 
 milk by degrees ; you have previously 
 set a shallow tin dish under a piece of 
 roasting beef before the fire ; an hour 
 before serving pour in the batter, leaving 
 it under the meat until quite set and 
 rather browned upon the top, when turn 
 the pudding over upon the dish you in- 
 tend serving it upon, and again place it 
 before the fire until the other side is 
 rather browned, when it is ready to serve 
 with the meat. 
 
 This pudding is very excellent baked 
 under a small piece of beef of about five 
 or six pounds. It is also frequently 
 baked beneath a shoulder of mutton ; 
 and sometimes in an oven separate, if the 
 fire is not large enough, (with a few 
 spoonfuls of gravy added). 
 
 1215.-TOAD IN A HOLE. 
 
 Make a batter as directed for the 
 Yorkshire pudding, but with the addition 
 of a spoonful more flour and six ounces 
 of chopped beef suet ; butter a rather 
 deep baking-dish, into which pour the 
 batter, lay a solid piece of lean gravy 
 beef about three pounds, in the centre, 
 or a beef skirt, and bake it an hour and 
 a half in a hot oven. 
 
 Another method is to cut up about 
 three pounds of rumpsteaks into about 
 six pieces, and putting them in the bat- 
 
MEAT PIES. 
 
 417 
 
 ter at various distances apart, but the 
 former method is most common. 
 
 Any remains of cooked beef, veal, mut- 
 ton, pork, roasted or boiled, salt or fresh, 
 or game and fowl, cut in pieces, and sea- 
 soned to taste, may be used in this dish, 
 by adding it to the batter when in the 
 dish. 
 
 1216. FISH PUDDING. 
 Cut a slice of salmon half an inch 
 thick, and weighing about one pound ; 
 remove the skin and bone, mix a 'salt- 
 spoonful of salt, half one of pepper, one 
 of finely chopped onions and parsley, and 
 a spoonful of flour in a plate, and rub 
 the fish with it j make half a pound of 
 flour into paste, roll it half an inch thick, 
 place a pudding-cloth in a middle-size 
 basin, flour the cloth, lay the paste in it, 
 place in the salmon with a little water 
 and white wine, and a bay-leaf, bring the 
 paste over so that the edges meet, in the 
 middle, having reserved a small piece 
 which you have rolled out to place over 
 the joint, after having wetted it. Tie the 
 cloth, but not too tight, round the paste ; 
 place it in a gallon of boiling water, let 
 it simmer for one hour and a half, take 
 it out, remove the cloth, and serve it 
 with shrimp s.auce over or separate. 
 Fillets of soles, mackerel, turbot, or 
 other fish, may be used. 
 
 1217. VEAL PIE IN A DISH. 
 
 First of all get all your ingredients 
 ready, namely, hop, parsley, shalots, or 
 onions, mushrooms, pepper and salt, 
 mint, four eggs boiled hard, a little good 
 second stock, now your paste. After 
 you have made patties or any first or 
 second course pastry, the, paste that re- 
 mains will do, be sure to put an edging 
 of paste to your dish ; first lay a layer 
 of lean and fat ham, or mild bacon, then 
 sprinkle it over with the prepared in- 
 gredients, then a layer of veal, and 
 part of an egg, then another layer of 
 
 ham and parsnips as before, and keep on 
 repeating it until quite full, letting the 
 middle be much higher than the sides 
 put a little drop of second stock into it, 
 bake it in a slow oven ; be sure and cut 
 a hole in the top, and if you like orna- 
 ment it with leaves of paste ; after egg- 
 ing the top, well notch the edge. Pour 
 some good white stock into it when done 
 and hot. 
 
 1218. BEEFSTEAK PIE. 
 Take some good steaks, beat them 
 with a rolling-pin, season them with pep- 
 per and salt ; fill a dish with them, add- 
 ing as much water as will half fill it, 
 then cover it with a good crust, and bake 
 it well. 
 
 1219. COLD VEAL OR CHICKEN PIE. 
 
 Lay a crust into a shallow tart dish, 
 and fill it with the following mixture : 
 shred cold veal or fowl, and half the 
 quantity of ham, mostly lean, put to it 
 a little cream, season with white and 
 cayenne pepper, salt, a little nutmeg, and 
 a small piece of shalot, chopped as fine 
 as possible : cover \rith crust, and turn 
 it out of the dish when baked, or bake 
 the crust with a piece of bread to keep 
 it hollow, and warm the mince with a 
 little cream, and pour in. 
 
 1220. CALF'S HEAD PIE. 
 
 Stew a knuckle of veal till fit for eat- 
 ing with two onions, a little isinglass, a 
 fagot of sweet herbs, a blade of mace, 
 and a few peppercorns in three pints of 
 water ; keep the broth for the pie. Take 
 off a little of the meat for forcemeat 
 balls, and let them be used for the family, 
 but boil the bones -until the broth is very 
 good : half boil the head, and cut it into 
 square pieces ; put a layer of ham at the 
 bottom of them, some head, first fat then 
 lean, with forcemeat balls, and hard- 
 boiled eggs cut in half, and so on till the 
 dish is full, but be careful not to place 
 the pieces close together or the pie wiU 
 
418 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 be too solid, and there will be no space 
 for the jelly. The meat must be first 
 pretty well seasoned with pepper and 
 salt, and a little nutmeg ; put a little 
 water and a little stock into the f dish, 
 and cover it with a thickish crust, bake 
 it in a slow oven, and when done, pour 
 into it as much gravy as it will possibly 
 hold, and do not cut it till perfectly cold, 
 in doing which use a very sharp knife, 
 and first cut out a large slice, going down 
 to the bottom of the dish, and when done 
 thus thinner slices can be cut. The dif- 
 ferent colors and the clear jelly have a 
 beautiful appearance. 
 
 1221. DUCK PIE. 
 
 Bone a full-grown young duck and a 
 fowl, wash them and season with pepper 
 and salt, a little allspice and mace pound- 
 ed ; put the fowl within the duck, and 
 on the former a calf's tongue pickled red, 
 boiled very tender and peeled, press the 
 whole close, the skins of the legs should 
 be drawn inward, that the body of the 
 fowl may be quite smooth ; if approved, 
 the space between the sides of the crust 
 may be filled with a fine forcemeat. Bake 
 it in a slow oven, either in a dish or 
 raised pie-crust, ornamented. 
 
 1222. FISH PIE. 
 
 This pie may be made of any fish, sal- 
 mon, pike, eel, or any other. Scale your 
 fish and cut it into pieces, line your pie- 
 dish with a good crust, put in the fish 
 with a bunch of sweet herbs, a little 
 salt, some bruised spices, and a layer of 
 butter on the top, put on the crust and 
 bake for an hour and a half; when done 
 remove the fat and put hi a vegetable 
 ragout made thus : Stir a little butter 
 and flour over the fire until a pale brown, 
 moisten with half a pint of sherry, some 
 soup maigre, add a few mushrooms, a 
 little salt, and a bunch of herbs ; let it 
 boil half an hour, and then put the ra- 
 
 gout into the pies. Any vegetable ra- 
 gout may be used. 
 
 1223.-GAME PIE. 
 
 Cut up your game, and use truffles and 
 whole mushrooms if you have them; 
 the seasonings as before, but no hard- 
 boiled eggs, and add a little port wine 
 with your gravy or stock. If you take 
 the bones from the birds or hare, use 
 some forcemeat as layers instead as in 
 former pies, veal and steaks, but no eggs ; 
 if boned you will prepare a good stock 
 from the bones, making the pie taste of 
 the very essence of the game, or poultry, 
 or whatever it may consist of. 
 
 1224 SNIPE PIE. 
 
 Bone three snipes, fill them with a 
 light forcemeat, adding the trails and 
 some truffles pounded, put the birds in a 
 deep dish, with a small layer of force- 
 meat all round ; cover with a puff-paste, 
 egg it, ornament it to fancy, and put it 
 into the oven. When about three parts 
 done, lift up the lid, pour in some good 
 cullis, a glass and a half of Madeira. 
 Season with cayenne pepper and lemon- 
 juice, cover down, and finish baking. 
 
 1225. GEEEN GOOSE PIE. 
 
 Bone two young green geese of a good 
 size, but first take away every plug and 
 singe them nicely, wash them clean, and 
 season them high with salt, pepper, mace, 
 and allspice. Put one inside the other 
 and press them as close as you can, 
 drawing the legs inwards; put a good 
 deal of butter over them, and bake them 
 either with or without crust; if with 
 the latter a cover to the dish must fit 
 close to keep in the steam, it will keep 
 long. Gravy jellied may be added when 
 served. 
 
 MACKENZIE'S PEEIGOED PIE. 
 
 Take six partridges and tie their legs 
 
BAVOKY PIES. 
 
 419 
 
 like chickens to be boiled ; season them 
 with pepper, salt, cloves, and beaten 
 mace. Put two pounds lean veal, and 
 one pound of fat bacon cut into small 
 bits, in a stew pan with half a pound of 
 butter, shalots, chopped herbs, and sea- 
 soning ; stew till tender ; strain and 
 pound the meat in a mortar ; mix the pulp 
 with some of the liquor ; put this force- 
 meat around and over the partridges in a 
 raised pie, and lay over thin slices of 
 bacon. Cover with paste; bake three 
 hours in a moderate oven. 
 
 Worcester sauce, good with savory 
 pies, is said to be made on a basis of 
 good walnut ketcnup with additional 
 spices. 
 
 1227. HAEE PIE. 
 
 Season the hare after it is cut up, in 
 the same manner as if to be jugged; 
 and bake it, with eggs, and forcemeat 
 partly made of the liver, in a raised crust 
 or dish. When it is to be served, raise 
 the lid, and, if in a crust, cover it with 
 jelly ; but, if made in a dish, with warm 
 gravy, mixed with a large glassful of 
 port wine. 
 
 1228. TIPPEEAEY CUEEY (an excellent Picnic 
 Dish). 
 
 Boil four chickens, and stuff two of 
 them when cold with a forcemeat made 
 of crumbs of bread, a few slices of ham 
 or tongue, sweet herbs, and a shalot well 
 pounded and mixed with the yolk of an 
 egg. Stuff the other two with boiled 
 rice, lay them in a mould or dish, with 
 eight hard-boiled eggs cut in half, a few 
 mushrooms, a little pickled lemon, cut in 
 thin rings. Pour over the chickens a 
 gravy made as follows : Fry an onion 
 in a little butter, add a table-spoonful of 
 curry-powder, one of vinegar, one of 
 mushroom-ketchup, a little salt, and a 
 little more than a pint of good veal broth ; 
 if the broth does not jelly, isinglass must 
 be put into it to make it do so. When 
 
 cold turn it out on a dish. It is a great 
 improvement to bone the chickens, the 
 bones helping to make the gravy. 
 
 1229. FRENCH PIE. 
 
 Make a raised crust upon a buttered 
 tin, and brush it with yolk of egg ; cover 
 the bottom with forcemeat, then fill 
 up the pie with sweetbread cut into 
 small pieces, oysters, hard eggs, legs of 
 chicken, turkey, or rabbit, boned ; arti- 
 choke-bottoms in small pieces, asparagus- 
 tops, forcemeat-balls, and mushrooms, 
 taking care to lay them regularly, and to 
 season the whole lightly and evenly : 
 bake it in a moderate oven. When it is 
 done pour in some strong gravy and 
 cream thickened with flour and butter. 
 
 Sausage-meat may be mixed with the 
 forcemeat, and in winter truffles sub- 
 stituted for the vegetables ; the seasoning 
 should be of mace, cloves, and cayenne 
 pepper. 
 
 1230. VEGETABLE PIE. 
 
 Scald and blanch some broad beans ; 
 cut ychmg carrots, turnips, artichoke- 
 bottoms, mushrooms, onions, lettuces, 
 parsley, celery, and add peas ; or use any 
 of them you may have. Make them into 
 a nice stew, with a little good veal gravy ; 
 season with pepper and salt; bake a 
 crust over a dish, with a little lining 
 round the edge. When baked, pour the 
 stew into the dish, and lay the crust over 
 it. Winter vegetables may be used in 
 the same way, and a cup of cream is a 
 great improvement. 
 
 1231. COLD PIES. 
 
 When meat pies are prepared to be 
 eaten cold, suet should not be put into 
 the forcemeat that is used with them. 
 If the pie is made of meat that will take 
 more dressing, to make it extremely ten- 
 der, than the baking of the crust will 
 allow, prepare it in the following way : 
 Take three pounds of the veiny piece of 
 
420 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 beef that has fat and lean ; wash it, and 
 season it with salt, pepper, mace, and all- 
 spice, in fine powder, rubbing them well 
 in. Set it by the side of a slow fire, in a 
 stewpot that will just hold it ; put to it 
 a piece of butter of about the weight of 
 two ounces, and cover it quite close ; let 
 it just simmer in its own steam till it be- 
 gins to shrink. When it is cold, add 
 more seasoning, forcemeat, and eggs : if 
 it is made in a dish, put some gravy to it 
 before baking ; but if it is only in crust, 
 do not put the gravy till after it is cold 
 and in jelly. Forcemeat may be put both 
 under and over the meat, if preferred to 
 balls. 
 
 1232. VEAL AND SWEETBKEAD PIE. 
 
 Cut the veal from the chump end of 
 the loin ; season it well ; clean and 
 blanch a sweetbread, cut it into pieces, 
 and season it ; lay both in the dish with 
 the yolks of six hard-boiled eggs and a 
 pint of oysters. Strain the oyster liquor, 
 add to it a pint of good gravy ; line the 
 sides of the dish with a puff paste half 
 an inch thick, and cover it with a lid of 
 the same. Bake it in a quick oven for 
 an hour and a quarter; and when it 
 is sent to table cut the lid into eight or 
 ten pieces, and stick them round the 
 sides, covering the meat with slices of 
 lemon. 
 
 1233. VEAL AND SAUSAGE PIE. 
 
 Cover a shallow dish with paste, lay a 
 well-beaten veal cutlet at the bottom, 
 slightly seasoned ; cover it with a Bo- 
 logna sausage freed from the skin and 
 cut into slices ; then add another cutlet 
 and a layer of the Bologna sausage ; 
 cover the whole with paste, and put no 
 water to it : the veal will give out suffi- 
 cient gravy, while it will be rendered 
 very savory by the sausage. It is ex- 
 cellent eaten cold. 
 
 1234 VEAL AND OYSTEB PIE. 
 
 Make a seasoning of pepper, salt, and 
 
 a small quantity of grated lemon-peel 
 Cut some veal-cutlets, and beat them, 
 until they are tender : spread over them 
 a layer of pounded ham, and roll them 
 round; then cover them with oysters, 
 and put another layer of the veal fillets, 
 and oysters on the top. Make a gravy 
 of the bones and trimmings, or with a 
 lump of butter, onion, a little flour and 
 water ; stew the oyster liquor, and put 
 to it, and fill up the dish, reserving a por- 
 tion to put into the pie when it comes 
 from the oven. 
 
 1235. EXCELLENT POEK PIES TO EAT 
 COLD. 
 
 Raise the crust according to the direc- 
 tions already given, into either a round 
 or oval form, as you choose ; have ready 
 the trimmings and small bits of pork cut 
 off when a hog is killed ; and if these 
 are not enough, take the meat off a blade- 
 bone. Beat it well with a rolling-pin, 
 cut it into dice, season with pepper and 
 salt, and keep the fat and lean separate. 
 Put it in layers, quite close up to the 
 top ; lay on the lid ; cut the edge smooth 
 round, and pinch it ; bake in a slow soak- 
 ing oven, as the meat is very solid. The 
 pork may be put into a common dish, 
 with a very plain crust, and be quite as 
 good. Observe to put no bone or water 
 into pork pie : the outside of the pieces 
 will be hard unless they are cut small 
 and pressed close. 
 
 . Both these and veal and chicken pies 
 are generally eaten cold, and, as they are 
 always seasoned highly, will keep good 
 for several days in the hottest weather. 
 In England it is not uncommon to take 
 off the cover and fill the pie up, when 
 cold, with clouted cream, which is a very 
 delicious addition. 
 
 1236. CALF'S-HEAD OK CALFS-FOOT PIE. 
 
 Either must be well stewed before 
 being put into the pie. They must be 
 cut into nice pieces, free from bone, and 
 
SAVORY PIES. 
 
 421 
 
 well seasoned, or otherwise they will be 
 tasteless. If to be eaten hot, sausage- 
 meat or fresh mushrooms or oysters will 
 be an improvement, in addition to the 
 ham, eggs, and forcemeat balls ; and if 
 cold, the small pickled mushrooms should 
 be added, or a little mushroom powder 
 in the gravy. The excellence of the pie 
 will chiefly depend upon the seasoning 
 and flavor, and the quantity of fine 
 savory jelly which it will contain ? and 
 therefore the meat should not be closely 
 packed, in order to leave room for the 
 
 1237. CALF'S-FOOT AND KIDNEY PIE. 
 Take from a cold roasted loin of veal 
 slices of the kidney fat, cover them with 
 pounded ham, and put them into a dish 
 swith the kidney cut into pieces, and the 
 meat from a calf's foot ; put in a few hard- 
 boiled eggs and forcemeat balls, made 
 very savory with oysters, an anchovy, 
 and the fat of bacon, as this pie should 
 be eaten cold. Put the juice of a half 
 a lemon, or a spoonful of Harvey sauce, 
 into a gravy. Sweetbread may be em- 
 ployed instead of kidney. 
 
 1233. BEEF-STEAK AND OYSTEK PIE. 
 
 Prepare the steaks as above, and put 
 layers of them and of oysters. Stew 
 the liquor and beards of the latter with 
 a bit of lemon-peel, mace, and a table- 
 spoonful of walnut ketchup. When the 
 pie is baked, boil with the above three 
 spoonfuls of cream, and one ounce of but- 
 ter rubbed in flour ; to which, however, 
 many people object as injuring the savor- 
 iness of the pie ; in which case, should 
 any addition be required, a few spoon- 
 fuls of beef gravy and port wine will an- 
 swer the purpose. Strain it, and pour 
 it into the dish : for a small pie a dozen 
 large oysters will be sufficient, and 
 the pie may be baked in a couple of 
 hours. 
 
 27 
 
 1239. MAEEOW PATTIES. 
 
 Make a paste with four ounces of sweei 
 almonds blanched, moistening them with 
 orange flower water; mix this paste 
 witn a handful of flour, a drop of warm 
 water and the yolks of three eggs ; then 
 line several shallow moulds with it, 
 glaze and bake them in a slow oven. 
 When done put into each of them a lit- 
 tle cream about the thickness of a crown 
 piece, made with beef marrow, lemon 
 peel, and cream, cover it with a spoonful 
 of white of egg whipped to a snow, 
 sprinkle sifted sugar over, and serve them 
 very hot. 
 
 1240. SQUAB PIE 
 
 Is a favorite dish in some parts of Eng- 
 land, and is there generally made of 
 mutton. Cut apples as for other pies, 
 and lay them in rows with mutton chops 
 and shred onion; sprinkle with pepper 
 and salt, and also some sugar. Bake the 
 pie in a deep dish, cover it with a thick 
 crust. and eat it hot ; it must be well 
 done> and will take two to three hours 
 baking. It is often made of beef cut 
 into dice, with some lean bacon seasoned 
 and mixed with the apples. 
 
 1241. YENISON PASTY. 
 
 The neck, breast, and shoulder are the 
 only parts of the deer used for a pasty j 
 and even the neck is more generally 
 roasted. 
 
 Cut the venison in pieces ; put it into 
 a stewpan with a little port wine, two 
 shalots, an onion, bay-leaf, fagot of pars- 
 ley and thyme, pepper, salt, and a little 
 gravy. Cover it close and let it stew 
 gently until tender ; take out the meat, 
 and pull out the bones ; reduce the gravy, 
 and when thoroughly cold remove the 
 fat ; then proceed to make the pasty. 
 
 Line the sides of the dish with crust, 
 but not the bottom ; lay in the meat with 
 fat between each piece, season with pep- 
 
422 
 
 THE^PBACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 per and salt^ put toil a pint of the gravy 
 .and a few bits of. butter, cover with a 
 good crust, and bake it thoroughly. 
 
 Keep the remainder of the gravy till 
 the pasty comes from the oven, put it by 
 means of a funnel into the middle quite 
 hot, and shake the dish to mix it well. 
 The pasty must be well done, requiring 
 generally two hours' baking. 
 
 A want of fat may be supplied by the 
 fat of a loin of mutton steeped for twenty- 
 four hours in port wine and garlic vine- 
 gar. 
 
 1242. TO MAKE A PASTY OF BEEP OE 
 MUTTON TO EAT LIKE VENISON. 
 
 Bone a small rump or piece of sirloin 
 of beef, or a fat loin of mutton, after 
 hanging several days. Beat it very well 
 witti a rolling-pin ; then rub ten pounds 
 of meat with four ounces of sugar, and 
 pour over it a glass of port, and the same 
 of vinegar. Let it lie five days and 
 nights; wash and wipe the meat very 
 dry, and season it very high with pepper, 
 Jamaica pepper, nutmeg, and salt. Lay 
 it in the dish, and to ten pounds put 
 three-quarters of a pound of butter; 
 spread it over the meat. Put a crust 
 round the edges, and cover with a thick 
 one, or it will be overdone before the 
 meat be soaked : it must be done in a 
 slow oven. 
 
 Set the bones in a pan in the oven, 
 with no more water than will cover them? 
 and one glass of port, a little pepper and 
 salt, that you may have a little rich 
 gravy to add to the pasty when flrawn. 
 
 1248. YORKSHIRE GOOSE PIE. 
 
 Bone a goose, a fowl, and a pigeon; 
 season them well with pepper, taking 
 care to cover the whole of the interior, 
 or otherwise it will turn sour before it 
 can be eaten ; put the pigeon into the 
 fowl, and the fowl inside the goose, filling 
 the interstices with various kinds of 
 force and sausage meat and hard-boiled 
 
 eggs. The liver and gizzard of the fowl 
 and pigeon will assist in the forcemeat, 
 which must be very well compounded ; 
 sew up the goose, and put it into a thick 
 crust. It will take several hours to 
 bake. Make savory jelly, which must 
 also be well seasoned, pour it into the 
 pie when it comes from the oven ; orna- 
 ment the top, and let it be movable, so 
 that the pie may have a good appearance to 
 the last, as the crust is not to be eaten. 
 A calf's foot, boned and cut small, may 
 be added, especially if used for the 
 
 jelly. 
 
 1244. -A CHEISTMAS PIE. 
 
 Bone a large goose and a fowl. Par- 
 boil a smoked tongue ; peel it and cut oif 
 the root. Mix together a powdered nutmeg. 
 a quarter of an ounce of powdered mace, a 
 tea-spoonful of pepper, the same quantity 5 * 
 of salt, and season the fowl and goose. 
 
 Roll out the paste near an inch thick, 
 and divide it, into three pieces ; =,cut out 
 two of them in an oval form for the top 
 and bottom ; and the other into a long 
 straight piece for the sides or walls of 
 the pie. Brush the paste all over with 
 beaten white of egg, and set on the bot- 
 tom the piece that is to form the wall, 
 pinching the edges together, and cement- 
 ing them with white of egg. The bottom 
 piece must be large enough to turn up a 
 little round the lower edge of the wall 
 piece, to which it must be firmly joined 
 all round. When you have the crust 
 properly fixed, so as to be baked stand- 
 ing alone withouta dish, put in first the 
 goose, then the fowl, then the tongue. 
 Fill up what space is left with pieces of 
 the flesh of pigeons, or of partridges, 
 quails, or any game that is convenient. 
 There must be no bones in the pie. You 
 may add also some bits of ham. or some 
 forcemeat balls. Cover the ingredients 
 with half a pound of butter, and put on 
 the top crust which, of course, must be 
 also of an oval form to correspond with 
 
PATTIES VOL- AU- VENT. 
 
 423 
 
 the bottom. The lid must be placed not 
 quite on the top edge of the wall, but 
 an inch and a half below it ; close it very 
 well, and ornament the sides and top 
 with festoons and leaves cut out of paste ; 
 notch the edges handsomely, and put a 
 paste flower in the centre ; glaze the 
 whole with beaten yolk of egg, and bind 
 the pie all round with a double fold of 
 white paper ; bake it four hours. 
 
 If the weather is cold, and the pie kept 
 carefully covered up from the air, it will 
 be good for two or three weeks, the 
 standing crust assisting to preserve it. 
 
 1245. PATTIES. 
 
 Roll out puff paste half an inch thick, 
 and, with a two-inch round cutter, cut 
 as many pieces as are required for the 
 dish. Take an inch cutter, dip it in hot 
 water, and press it in the middle of the 
 paste about half through. Brush the 
 pieces over with yolk of egg, bake in a 
 quick oven, take out the piece marked 
 with the inch cutter, remove the soft 
 parts from the inside, fill them with a 
 mince of any kind, dish them on a nap- 
 kin, garnish with fried parsley. To 
 make the tops, roll out the trimmings 
 thin, cut some pieces with the inch cut- 
 ter, egg them over, and bake them. 
 
 Of Beef. Shred underdone dressed 
 beef with a little fat, season with pepper, 
 salt, and a little shalot or onion. Add 
 gravy, half a glass of Madeira, and a few 
 bread-crumbs. When hot, fill the patty- 
 cases. 
 
 Of Veal. Mince some veal that is 
 not quite done, put to it a little parsley, 
 lemon-peel, jmtmeg, and salt; a little 
 cream and gravy just to moisten the 
 meat ; if you have any ham, it will be 
 an improvement. Do not warm it till 
 the patties are baked. 
 
 Of Turkey. Mince some of the white 
 part; and with grated lemon, nutmeg, 
 
 salt, a very little white pepper, cream, 
 and a very little bit of butter warmed, 
 fill the patties. 
 
 A good Mince for Patties. Two 
 ounces of ham, four of chicken or veal, 
 one egg boiled hard, three cloves, a blade 
 of mace, pepper and salt, in fine powder. 
 Just before you serve, warm the above 
 with four spoonfuls of rich gravy, the 
 same of cream, and one ounce of butter. 
 Fill as usual. 
 
 Of Oyster. Take off the beards of the 
 oysters, cut the other parts in small bits, 
 put them in a small tosser with a grate 
 of nutmeg, a little white pepper and salt, 
 a morsel of lemon-peel cut very small, a 
 little cream, and a small quantity of the 
 oyster liquor. Simmer a few minutes 
 before you fill. 
 
 Or : Beard and chop the oysters, boil 
 a little cream, with an onion and a small 
 quantity of mace ; chop fine the crust of 
 a French roll, mix it with the oysters, 
 add the cream ; let it boil. Season with 
 nutmeg, cayenne, and salt. 
 
 Of Lobster. Mince the fish in the 
 same manner, -mingling with it a little 
 of the coral, and make with the same 
 seasoning, a little cream, and the smallest 
 bit of butter. 
 
 Of Shrimps. Pick a quart of shrimps ; 
 if they are very salt, season them with 
 only mace and a clove or two. Mince 
 two or three anchovies ; mix these with 
 the spice, and then season the shrimps. 
 Put a glass of sharp white wine. They 
 do not take long baking. 
 
 1246. VOL-AU- VENT. 
 
 Take puff paste, roll it about three- 
 quarters of an inch thick, cut it round 
 or oval according to the shape of the 
 dish ; make the knife hot in water, so as 
 not to drag the paste in cutting it j mark 
 the cover an inch from the edge, brush 
 it over with yolk of egg j bake it in a 
 
424 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 quick oven ; when done take off the top, 
 clean out the soft paste, return it to the 
 oven for a few minutes to dry ; dish it 
 on a napkin. 
 
 Care must be taken in taking out the 
 soft part not to break the outside. 
 
 It may be filled with ragout of sweet- 
 bread, fricassee of chicken, quenelles, 
 lobster, or oysters, but is never made of 
 a large size. 
 
 1247. VOL-AU-VENT OF CKOQUETTES. 
 
 Make croquettes of the size of a 
 pigeon's egg, of veal and ham and of 
 calves' brains, an equal quantity of each, 
 fry them of the palest gold color j make 
 a rich white-sauce, and put into it the 
 very smallest mushrooms or minced truf- 
 fles ; give it an acid flavor with lemon 
 or lemon-pickle, and put it into the vol-au- 
 vent when it is to be sent to table. 
 
 1248. VOL-AU-VENT OF VEAL. 
 
 Cut veal into thin pieces the size of 
 half-a-crown, beat them, and fry them a 
 pale brown; make some forcemeat and 
 egg-balls, fry the former, put the whole 
 into a rich brown gravy, fill the vol-au- 
 vent. and serve it up hot. 
 
 1249.-VOL-AU-VENT OF PIGEONS AND 
 SWEETBKEADS. 
 
 Cut off the pinions, legs, and backs of 
 three or four pigeons, and bone the 
 breast, making it as large as possible : 
 cut three or four pieces of blanched 
 sweetbread the same size, put them to- 
 gether, securing them with tape, and put 
 them into a stewpan with a piece of but- 
 ter, the trimmings, an onion, a bunch of 
 sweet herbs, a slice of fat bacon, and a 
 small teacupful of water. Let them 
 stew till quite tender ; remove the tape, 
 strain and thicken the gravy, and put 
 
 them into the paste when it comes from 
 the oven. 
 
 1250. CODFISH PIE. 
 
 Take dressed codfish and cold oyster- 
 sauce ; put a little of the sauce at the 
 bottom of a pie-dish, then a layer of 
 flakes of codfish, with a little of the liver 
 cut in small pieces ; season with black 
 pepper and salt, and a very little nutmeg ; 
 repeat the layers until the dish is full, 
 cover it with breadcrumbs and bits of fresh 
 butter; bake for three-quarters of an 
 hour, and let the top be quite brown. A 
 couple of sounds well soaked, boiled ten- 
 der, and cut in small pieces, are a great 
 improvement. 
 
 Or : Take a piece of the middle of a 
 small codfish, and salt it well one* night; 
 next day wash it, cut it in slices, season 
 with pepper, salt, and a very little nut- 
 meg, mixed ; place it in a dish, and put 
 some butter on it, with a little good 
 broth of any kind. Cover it with a 
 crust; and when done, raise it, add a 
 dozen oysters, one quarter of a pint 
 of cream, a h'ttle flour and butter, a grate 
 of lemon and nutmeg, and give it one 
 boil. Bake it a full hour. 
 
 1251. A EEMAEKABLT FINE FISH PIE. 
 
 Boil two pounds of small eels ; having 
 cut the fins quite close, pick the flesh off, 
 and throw the bones into the liquor with 
 a little mace, pepper, salt, and slice of 
 onion ; boil till quite rich, and strain it. 
 Make forcemeat of the flesh, an anchovy, 
 parsley, lemon-peel, salt, pepper, and 
 crumbs, and four ounces of butter 
 warmed, and lay it at the bottom of 
 the dish. Take the flesh of soles, small 
 cod, or dressed turbot, and lay them on 
 the forcemeat, having rubbed it with salt 
 and pepper; pour the gravy over, and 
 bake. 
 
FKUIT PIES. 
 
 425 
 
 FKUIT PIES, PUFFS, PUD- 
 DINGS, &o. 
 
 ALL pies made either with summer 
 fruit or with winter preserves will be 
 improved by a mixture of apples, pared 
 and sliced. They are especially good 
 with fresh cherries, currants, &c., and 
 will be found an agreeable addition to 
 cranberries. Equal portions also of cran- 
 berries and any very sweet jam will im- 
 prove both. When apples are mixed 
 with jam, they should be sliced thin; 
 and if syrup be wanted, a few slices 
 boiled with a little of the jam in sugar 
 and water. In making pies of green 
 gooseberries, apples, or rhubarb, the 
 sugar should be clarified that is, boiled 
 in a little water, but no water poured 
 into the pie, as it destroys the flavor of 
 the fruit. For fresh fruits short crust 
 is very suitable. 
 
 For a good common pie-crust allow 
 half a pound or three-quarters of shorten- 
 ing to a pound of flour. Pie-crust looks 
 the nicest made entirely of lard, but does 
 not taste so good as with some butter. 
 In winter, beef shortening, mixed with 
 butter, makes good plain crust. Rub 
 half of the shortening with two-thirds 
 of the flour to each pound of flour put 
 a teaspoonful of salt and add just suffi- 
 cient cold water to render it moist 
 enough to roll out easily. Divide the 
 crust into two equal portions lay one 
 of them aside for the upper crust, take 
 the other, roll it out quite thin, flouring 
 your rolling-board and pin, so that the 
 crust will not stick to them, and line 
 your pie plates, which should be previ- 
 ously buttered fill your plates with 
 your fruit, then roll out the upper crust 
 as thin as possible, spread on the reserv- 
 ed shortening, sprinkle over the flour, 
 roll it up, and cut it into as many pieces 
 as you have pies to cover. Roll each 
 
 one out about half an inch thick, .and 
 cover the pies trim the edges off neatly 
 with a knife, and press the crust down 
 round the edge of the plate with a jag- 
 ging iron, so that the juices of the fruit 
 may not run out while baking. Pastry 
 should be baked in a quick oven. 
 
 1252.-PUFF PASTE, OE CONFECTIONERS 
 TASTEY. 
 
 Weigh out a pound and a quarter of 
 sifted flour, and a pound of butter. Rub 
 about one-third of the butter with two- 
 thirds of the flour, and a teaspoonful of 
 salt. When the butter is thoroughly 
 mixed with the flour, add one beaten 
 egg, and cold water to moisten it suffi- 
 ciently to roll out. Sprinkle part of the 
 reserved flour on a board, cut the butter 
 left into small pieces, and roll them out 
 as thin as possible. Lay the butter, as 
 fast as rolled out, on a floured plate, each 
 piece by itself roll out the pastry as 
 thin as it can be rolled, cover it with the 
 rolled butter, sprinkle on part of the 
 reserved flour, and roll the crust up. 
 Continue to roll out the crust, and put 
 on the reserved butter and flour, till the 
 whole is used. Roll it out lightly, about 
 half an inch thick, for the upper crust, 
 or rim to your pies plain pie crust 
 should be used for the under crust. Or, 
 instead of flour, sprinkle some " baking 
 powder" on each layer of butter; when 
 the butter melts, it will cause the pow- 
 der to effervesce and puff up the paste. 
 To make the " baking powder," take one 
 ounce of carbonate of soda, and seven 
 drachms of Tartaric acid, mix well : it 
 may be conveniently applied by means of 
 a common pepper-pot kept for the pur- 
 pose. Puff pastry, to be nice, should 
 be baked in a quick oven till of a light 
 brown color. If it browns before the 
 fruit in the pie is sufficiently baked, cover 
 it with thick paper. 
 
426 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 1258.-FLAKY PASTE. (By a Lady of New 
 York.) 
 
 Wet half a pound of dried flour with 
 cold water enough to make a hard, stiff 
 paste ; roll it one way only ; roll in half 
 a pound of hutter with a knife, in small 
 bits at a tune. 
 
 1254 EHUBAEB PIES. 
 
 Take the tender stalks of the rhubarb, 
 strip off the skin, and cut the stalks into 
 thin slices. Line deep plates with pie 
 crust, then put in the rhubarb, with a 
 thick layer of sugar to each layer of 
 rhubarb a little grated lemon-peel im- 
 proves the pie. Cover the pies with a 
 cnlst press it down tight round the 
 edge of the plate, and prick the crust 
 with a fork. Rhubarb pies should be 
 baked about an hour, in a slow oven it 
 will not do to bake them quickly. Some 
 cooks stew the rhubarb before making 
 it into pies, but it is not so good as whten 
 used without stewing. 
 
 1255. PUMPKIN PIE. 
 
 Halve the pumpkin, take out the seeds 
 rinse the pumpkin, and cut it into 
 small strips stew them over a moderate 
 fire, in just sufficient water to prevent 
 their burning to the bottom of the pot. 
 When stewed soft, turn off the water, 
 and let the pumpkin steam, over a slow 
 fire, for fifteen or twenty minutes, tak- 
 ing care that it does not burn. Take it 
 from the fire, and strain it when cool, 
 through, a sieve. If you wish to have 
 the pies very rich, put to a quart of the 
 stewed pumpkin two quarts of milk, and 
 twelve eggs. If you like them plain, 
 put to a quart of the pumpkin one quart 
 of milk and three eggs. The thicker the 
 pie is of the pumpkin, the less will be 
 the number of eggs required for them. 
 One egg, with a table-spoonful of flour, 
 will answer for a quart of the pumpkin, 
 if very little milk is used. Sweeten the 
 pumpkin with sugar, and very little mo- 
 
 lasses the sugar and eggs should be 
 beaten together. Ginger, grated lemon- 
 rind, cinnamon and spices or nutmeg, are 
 good for the pies. Pumpkin pies require 
 a very hot oven. 
 
 1256. PUMPKIN PUDDING. (By a Lady of 
 New York.) 
 
 One quart stewed pumpkin, nine beaten 
 eggs, three pints cream, sugar, mace, nut- 
 meg and ginger. Bake in paste. 
 
 1257. POTATO PUDDING. 
 
 Boil Carolina or mealy Irish potatoes 
 until they are quite soft. When peeled 
 mash and strain them. To a quarter of 
 a pound of potatoes, put a quart of milk, 
 three table-spoonfuls of melted butter, 
 four beaten eggs, a wine-glass of wine 
 add sugar and nutmeg to the taste. 
 
 1258. PEACH PIE. 
 
 Take mellow juicy peaches wash and 
 put them in a deep pie plate, lined with 
 pie crust. Sprinkle a thick layer of sugar 
 on each layer of peaches, put in about a 
 table-spoonful of water, and sprinkle a 
 little flour over the top cover with thick 
 crust and bake from fifty to sixty min- 
 utes. 
 
 1259. FANCY PASTEY. 
 
 Use some fancy cutter, cutting the* 
 paste a quarter of an inch thick, egg them 
 and glaee them, and bake them a light 
 brown ; when cold put different colored 
 sweetmeats, such as apple jelly, and red 
 currant jelly into devices upon the top of 
 each piece ; dish them upon a napkin. 
 
 1260. GLAZING FOE TAETS. 
 
 Mix sifted sugar and water into a thick 
 paste like cream, and brush it over the 
 crust. 
 
 1261. COCOA-NUT PIE. 
 
 Cut off the brown part of the cocoa- 
 nut, grate the white part, and mix it 
 
.#HNCE PIES. 
 
 427 
 
 with milk, and set it on the fire and let 
 it boil slowly eight or ten minutes. To 
 a pound of the grated cocoa-nut allow a 
 quart of milk, eight eggs, four table- 
 spoonfuls of sifted white sugar, a glass 
 of wine, a small cracker, pounded fine, 
 two spoonfuls of melted butter, and half 
 a nutmeg. The eggs and sugar should 
 be beaten together to a froth, then the 
 wine stirred in. Put them into the milk 
 and cocoa-nut, which should be first al- 
 lowed to get quite cool add the cracker 
 and nutmeg turn the whole into deep 
 pie plates, with a lining and rim of puff 
 paste. Bake them as soon as turned 
 into the plates. 
 
 1262. A PLAIN CUSTAED PIE. 
 
 Boil a quart of milk with half a dozen 
 peach leaves, or the rind of a lemon. 
 When they have flavored the milk, strain 
 it, and set it where it will boil. Mix a 
 table-spoonful of flour, smoothly, with a 
 couple of table-spoonfuls of milk, and 
 stir it into the boiling milk. Let it boil 
 a minute, stirring it. constantly take it 
 from the fire, and when cool, put in three 
 beaten eggs sweeten it to the taste, 
 turn it into deep pie plates lined with 
 paste, and bake the pies in a quick oven. 
 
 1263. MINCE PIES. 
 
 Fresh tongue must be used. It should 
 be for two days well covered with equal 
 quantities of salt, brown sugar, and pow- 
 dered cloves. After boiling it until it is 
 thoroughly done say two hours skin 
 it and mince it fine. Pick, wash, and 
 dry three pounds of currants, grate the 
 rind of five lemons, and extract their 
 juice, blanch and pound an ounce of bit- 
 ter almonds anjl a pound of sweet al- 
 monds, powder four nutmegs, and grind 
 together a dozen cloves and a dozen 
 blades of mace ; chop up three pounds of 
 beef suet, six pounds of Sultana raisins, 
 and six of the best pippin apples after 
 
 paring and coring them. Mix them to- 
 gether, pouring over them a quart of 
 Madeira wine and a pint of brandy. 
 
 This mince-meat should be placed in a 
 tolerably deep dish and baked with puff 
 paste. It should be thoroughly baked. 
 Most persons prefer to eat these pies 
 warm, but they are by no means unpal- 
 atable when cold. 
 
 These pies are richer when the mince- 
 meat has been left for a few days in a 
 stone jar, closely covered with a paper 
 which has been dipped in brandy. When 
 taken out, a little more sugar and a small 
 quantity of brandy should be added to 
 the mixture before the pies are made. 
 
 1264. CEACKEE PIE. 
 
 One soda biscuit and a half, one teacup 
 of white sugar, one lemon, one teacup of 
 boiling water. Break the biscuit into 
 small bits, pour over them the boiling 
 water, cover, and leave them to swell. 
 Grate the yellow part of the rind of the 
 lemon, add to it the juice and the sugar, 
 mix with the cracker when it is suf- 
 ficiently swelled ; make a nice crust, and 
 prepare as apple pies. Sift sugar over 
 the pies when baked. 
 
 1265. MINCE MEAT FOE CHEISTMAS PIES. 
 (Miss Jane Strickland's Eeceipt) 
 
 Take equal quantities of finely shred and 
 chopped beef suet ; cold roast beef, well 
 roasted; currants, washed, dried, and 
 picked ; and raisins stoned and chopped j 
 and apples, pared, cored, and chopped fine. 
 Mix all these prepared ingredients well 
 together, and sweeten with good moist 
 Jamaica sugar, to taste ; grate off with 
 loaf sugar the peel of two lemons, and 
 grate in two nutmegs. Having well 
 mingled all these materials together, add 
 to them in the proportion of your mince- 
 meat, thus : If you have two pounds of 
 every thing namely meat, suet, currants, 
 raisins, and apnjes, and not quite two 
 pounds of sugar, pour over the mixture a 
 
428 
 
 THE PRACTICAL - HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 pint of rum, or French brandy, and half a 
 pint of raisin wine. If spirits are disliked, 
 raisin wine of a fine quality or Lisbon 
 must be added ; but the spirits will keep 
 it three months. Fill a jar with your 
 mince-meat, cram down as hard as pos- 
 sible, and cover with a close-fitting lid, 
 tied down with brown paper. Be careful 
 whenevei you take out your meat, to 
 cram down that in the jar with a spoon, 
 and cover close. Line your tin dishes 
 with puff or family paste ; fill with mince 
 meat heaped up in the middle, cut slices 
 of candied orange, lemon, and citron 
 peel, and put on your meat, cover in with 
 paste ; mark prettily with a knife, and 
 bake in a quick oven ; heat them for 
 table. 
 
 It was formerly the custom in England 
 for married couples to keep the anni- 
 versaries of their wedding days, and on 
 those occasions as many small mince 
 pies were placed on one dish on the table, 
 as the host and hostess had been married 
 years. 
 
 1266.-MINCE MEAT (famished by a New York 
 Lady). 
 
 One boiled tongue ; half its weight of 
 finely chopped beef suet; two pounds 
 currants, two pounds raisins, one quart 
 of brandy, one of wine ; apples and sugar 
 at discretion; cloves, cinnamon, mace 
 citron, orange-peel. 
 
 The mince meat made at Windsor 
 Castle every year, and made one month 
 previous to using, is as follows : Two 
 hundred and forty pounds of raisins, 
 four hundred pounds currants, two hun- 
 dred pounds lump sugar, three pounds 
 cinnamon, three pounds nutmegs, three 
 pounds cloves, three pounds ground all- 
 spice, two pounds ginger, three hundred 
 pounds beef, three hundred and fifty 
 pounds suet; twenty-four bushels of 
 apples, two hundred ajid forty lemons, 
 thirty pounds of cedret, seventy-two 
 
 bottles of brandy, three pounds mace, 
 sixty pounds lemon-peel, sixty pounds 
 orange-peel. 
 
 1267. APEICOT TAPtT. 
 
 Take some apricots, cut them in two, 
 and break the stones, put them into paste 
 with sugar, a small quantity of preserved 
 lemon, and a few of the kernels, close it, 
 sprinkle sugar over, and glaze it. If the 
 apricots are not ripe, boil them a short 
 time in water, and 'drain them well. 
 
 1263. APPLE PIE. 
 
 Pare, core, and quarter the apples ; 
 boil the cores and parings in sugar and 
 water; strain off the liquor, adding more 
 sugar ; grate the rind of a lemon over the 
 apples, and squeeze the juice into the 
 syrup ; mix half a dozen cloves with the 
 fruit, put in a piece of butter, the size of 
 a walnut, and add or omit a glass of wine ; 
 cover with puff paste. 
 
 Gooseberry, Currant and Raspberry, 
 Cherry, Plum, Damson, Pear, Quince, 
 Mulberry, Whortleberry and Raspberry, 
 Dewberry and Raspberry, or Cranberry, 
 may all be made in the same way, in win- 
 ter. A little whipped cream may be 
 placed in the top, for a variety. 
 
 12G9.-CODLING TAET. 
 
 Scald the fruit ; when ready, take oif 
 the skin, and lay them whole in a dish ; 
 put a little of the water that the apples 
 were boiled in at bottom, strew them 
 over with powdered lump sugar ; when 
 cold, put a paste round the edges, and 
 over. When the tart is baked, smear 
 the crust with white of egg, and sift over 
 it some powdered sugar. Serve with 
 custard. 
 
 Or: Line the bottom of a shallow 
 dish with paste ; lay the apples in it, 
 sweeten, and lay little twists of paste 
 over in bars. 
 
PTJFFS GATJFFRES . 
 
 429 
 
 The mode of making the new-fashioned 
 Apple-pie is to pare and quarter the 
 apples, scald them, beat them with a 
 spoon with some of the liquor, add grat- 
 ed lemon-peel, the juice of a lemon or 
 Seville orange, or a part of a quince, 
 when they are to be got, cloves, white 
 sugar finely pounded, and a piece of but- 
 ter ; put a paste round the dish, and 
 cover it with bars or flowers of paste 
 the excellence of the pie consisting of the 
 sort of apple and the goodness of the 
 paste ; the fruit should be raised in the 
 middle, as it shrinks in the baking. 
 
 1270. TO MAKE A SIMNEL. 
 One pound of flour, one quarter of a 
 pound of butter, one quarter of a pound 
 of lump sugar, one pound of currants, 
 two ounces of candied lemon, one quar- 
 ter of an ounce of carbonate of soda 
 mixed with an egg, and a little milk ; to 
 be put in a tin mould, and baked till 
 enough. 
 
 1271. EXCELLENT LIGHT PUFFS. 
 
 Mix two spoonfuls of flour, a little 
 grated lemon-peel, some nutmeg, half a 
 spoonful of brandy, a little loaf-sugar, 
 and one egg ; then fry it enough, but not 
 brown; beat it in a mortar with* five 
 eggs, whites and yolks ; put a quantity 
 of lard in a frying-pan, and when quite 
 hot drop a dessert-spoonful of batter at 
 a time; turn as they brown. Serve 
 them immediately with sweet sauce. 
 
 Spanish Puffs. Put one ounce of fresh 
 butter into a quart stewpan ; when hot, 
 put in four spoonfuls of flour ; stir it over 
 the fire for five minutes; have ready 
 boiling a gill of milk, which stir in by de- 
 grees so as to avoid making it lumpy ; 
 when it is thoroughly boiled, take it oif 
 the fire, stir in six eggs, a pinch of salt, 
 a little nutmeg, chopped lemon-peel, and 
 a handful of currants, with sugar to 
 palate, and sufficient orange-flower water 
 to flavor it j let it get cold j when wanted 
 
 for use have some lard boiling, make the 
 batter into balls the size of a small wal- 
 nut, fry them until they burst ; drain ; 
 dust them over with powdered sugar; 
 serve with wine-sauce. 
 
 German Puffs. Put half a pound of 
 butter into a breakfast-cupful of milk, 
 place the pan upon the fire, and when it 
 boils add a cupful of flour ; beat all well 
 together, and, when cold, mix in six eggs, 
 leaving out two of the whites ; beat up 
 some sugar and grated lemon-peel with 
 the eggs, and bake the puffs in a mode- 
 rately heated oven. 
 
 Irish Puffs. Pound one quarter of a 
 pound of sweet and one ounce of bitter 
 almonds, but not too finely ; take one 
 quarter of a pound of loaf-sugar pounded 
 and sifted, the whites of two eggs beaten 
 to a thick froth j mix all together, and 
 put the puffs into pattypans covered 
 with paste ; then sift powdered sugar 
 over them thickly, and bake them a light 
 brown. The flavor may be improved by 
 pounding the almonds with orange- 
 flower water or a little essence of lemon. 
 
 1272. GAUFFKES. 
 
 Take four or five ounces of flour, three 
 ounces of pounded sugar, half a pint of 
 whipped cream, four or five eggs, a small 
 stick of pounded vanilla, a grating of nut- 
 meg, and a little salt, with a glass of cu- 
 ra^oa or ratafia. 
 
 Place the flour, sugar, and salt in a t>a- 
 sin, then add the yolk of eggs, the va- 
 nilla, and the spirit, mixing them well 
 together, and gradually adding the 
 whipped cream. Just before using the 
 batter, add the whites of eggs, whipped 
 to a froth, and mix them in lightly, so as 
 to thoroughly incorporate them with it. 
 
 Bake these gauffres in tongs made for 
 the purpose, observing, however, that 
 the iron be very carefully heated, and the 
 superfluous heat allowed to go off pre- 
 viously to filling them with batter ; rub 
 
430 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 the tongs with fresh butter j fill the bot- 
 tom part with batter, and fasten on the 
 top, then turn it, and when a fine brown 
 on both sides, shake some pounded spice 
 and sugar over them, and send them to 
 table. 
 
 They may be spread with any kind of 
 preserve or jelly. 
 
 12T3. LENT PIES. 
 
 Boil a dozen eggs quite hard, and chop 
 the yolks very fine ; chop also a dozen of 
 moderate-sized juicy apples, peeled and 
 cored, together with two pounds of ston- 
 ed raisins ; add two pounds of currants, 
 one pound of sugar, and a table-spoonful 
 each of powdered cinnamon, nutmeg, 
 and beaten mace ; take also the juice and 
 grated peel of three ripe Jemons, with 
 half a pound of citron cut into slips ; mix 
 all these thoroughly, and moisten the 
 whole with a pint each of white wine and 
 brandy. If at hand, a little rose-water 
 may be added, and ratafia may be used 
 instead of brandy. 
 
 1274 SWEET PATTIES. 
 
 Chop the meat of a boiled calf s-foot, 
 oi which you use the liquor for jelly, 
 with two apples, one ounce of orange, 
 and lemon peel candied, and some fresh 
 peel and juice ; mix with them one-half 
 of a nutmeg grated, the yolk of an egg, 
 a spoonful of brandy, and four ounces 
 currants, washed and dried. Bake in 
 small patty pans. 
 
 1275. VOL-AU-VENT 
 
 Means light as wind ; you must there- 
 fore make this paste very delicate. It 
 is used for first or second courses. Of 
 all things in pastry the vol-au-vent re- 
 quires the most care and precision; 
 they that can make a good vol-au-vent 
 may be stamped as good pastry-cooks. 
 Make a pound of puff paste, giving 
 it seven rolls and a half, leave it an 
 inch in thickness, make a mark upon 
 
 the top either round or oval, and 
 according to the size of your dish; 
 then, with a sharp-pointed knife cut it 
 out -from the paste, holding the knife 
 with the point slanting outwards ; turn 
 it over, mark the edges with the back of 
 your knife, and place it upon a baking- 
 sheet, which you have sprinkled with 
 water; egg over the top, then dip the 
 point of the knife into hot water, and cut 
 a ring upon the top a quarter of an inch 
 deep, and half an inch from the edge of 
 the vol-au-vent ; set in a rather hot oven ; 
 if getting too much color, cover over 
 with a sheet of paper ; do not take it out 
 before done, or it would fall, but when 
 quite set, cut off the lid and empty it 
 with a knife : be careful to make no hole 
 in the side or bottom ; if for first course 
 it is ready, but if for second sift sugar all 
 over, which glaze with the salamander. 
 Regulate the thickness of the paste from 
 which you cut the vol-au-vent, accord- 
 ing to the size you require it, the smaller 
 ones of course requiring thinner paste. 
 A vol-au-vent for entrees will take about 
 half an hour to bak% and as the common 
 iron ovens often throw out more heat 
 upon one side than the other, it will re- 
 quire turning two or three times to cause 
 it to rise equally ; it ought to be when 
 baked of a light gold color. 
 
 Vol-au- Vent of Peaches. Put half a 
 pound of sugar in a sugar-pan, with the 
 juice of a lemon and about half a pint of 
 water, place it upon the fire, and boil it 
 till becoming a thickish syrup ; then have 
 eight peaches not quite ripe, which cut 
 in halves, break their stones and blanch 
 the kernels, throw six halves with the 
 kernels into the syrup, boil three minutes, 
 take them out with a skimmer, lay them 
 upon a dish, and take off their skins, 
 stew the rest in- syrup in like manner, 
 four at a time ; when all done pour what 
 liquor runs from them again into the 
 syrup, which reduce to a good thickness, 
 
VOL-AU-VENT TAETS. 
 
 <* 431 
 
 pass it through a tammy into a basin, 
 when cold pour a little over the peaches, 
 and leave until ready to serve ; dress the 
 peaches in your vol-au-vent with the 
 syrup over. 
 
 Vol-au-vent with Fruit. These do not 
 require to be so high as the other, es- 
 pecially as the fruit ought to be dressed 
 in the form of a pyramid ; if they are cut 
 about three-quarters of an inch in thick- 
 ness it will be enough ; when nearly done, 
 sift some powdered sugar over them, and 
 put it back in the oven to glaze well ; if 
 not hot enough use the salamander ; re- 
 move the interior, taking care not to 
 make a hole in the bottom or sides, and 
 fill with any kind of fruit you like, but 
 never mix two kinds together, except 
 currant and raspberry. 
 
 Sweet Vol-au- Vent with Rhubarb. 
 In the spring of the year this makes a 
 very inviting and wholesome dish, and its 
 qualities purify the blood, which the 
 winter's food has rendered gross ; cut 
 about twelve sticks of. ( rhubarb into 
 lengths of one inch, put it in a stewpan 
 holding about two quarts, put over it a 
 quarter of a pound of sugar, and a table- 
 spoonful of Vater, set it on a sharp fire, 
 stirring it ; do not let it get brown, or it 
 would spoil, and lose its flavor ; it will 
 take but a few minutes to do ; when ten- 
 der, put it in a basin to cool ; a few min- 
 utes before serving fill the vol-au-vent 
 with it, and serve cold. 
 
 Sweet Vol-au-vent with green Goose- 
 lerries. A quart of green gooseberries, 
 a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, 
 the juice of half a lemon, and a table- 
 spoonful of water ; put on the fire and 
 move it about for ten minutes, or till 
 tender, and forming a thick green mar- 
 malade ; put it in a basin till cold ; serve 
 in pyramid in the vol-au-vent ; a little 
 thick syrup, if handy, poured over, im- 
 proves the appearance. 
 
 Sweet Vol-au-vent with Orange. 
 
 Well peel six oranges, removing all tho 
 pith, divide each into six or eight pieces, 
 put them in a pan, with a quarter of a 
 pound of sugar, and the juice of an orange, 
 set it on a slow fire, with the cover on, 
 stir it now and then ten minutes will 
 be sufficient time for it ; take out the 
 pieces one after the other, lay them in a 
 basin, reduce your syrup to a proper 
 thickness; when ready to serve, dish 
 your pieces of orange in it, and pour over 
 the syrup. 
 
 1276.-COCOA-NUT CUSTAKD. 
 
 Boil one quart of milk, when it boils 
 sift in three table- spoonfuls of farina. 
 Take off the fire, stir in one-quarter of a 
 pound of butter, and let it stand until 
 quite cold. Beat six eggs, the yolks and 
 whites separate, until very light ; add to 
 the yolks three-quarters of a pound of 
 sugar, and the grated pulp of one cocoa- 
 nut. Stir the mixture into the boiled 
 milk, add the beaten whites of the eggs, 
 line tin pie plates with a nice crust, fill 
 with the mixture, and bake. 
 
 , 1277. SMALL FEUTT TAETS. 
 The next in order to sweet vol-au- 
 vents, and which are easier to make, are 
 tartlets, their appearance being inviting, 
 and their expense limited, and very easj 
 to serve. They may be made from the 
 trimmings of any puff paste which re- 
 mains, and should be enveloped in paper, 
 and kept in a cold place, or in the flour- 
 tub. Make them as follows : Have 
 ready twelve or more small tartlet pans, 
 which butter, line each with a bit of 
 puff paste cut with a cutter the size of a 
 crown-piece, force up the edges with 
 your thumb and finger, put a small ball 
 (made of flour and water) in each, bake 
 them nicely in a very hot oven; when 
 done, take out the ball (which may be 
 kept for other occasions) from the tart- 
 lets, and shake powdered sugar over the 
 bottom of each, and glaze with a 
 
432 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 mander, turn them over,- and shake sugar 
 in the interior, which also salamander ; 
 fill with any kind of preserve, marmal- 
 ade, or fruit, for sweet vol-au-vents. 
 They may be made with cream as fol- 
 lows : Make your tartlets as before, 
 placing cream instead of the ball of flour, 
 made thus : Put half a pint of milk in 
 a stewpan, when boiling, add half a stick 
 of vanilla, reduce the milk to half in 
 another stewpan, have the yolks of two 
 eggs and a quarter of an ounce of pow- 
 dered sugar, and one ounce of sifted flour, 
 with a grain of salt, pour in the milk, 
 taking out the vanilla, place over a slow 
 fire, keep stirring till it thickens ; when 
 cold, fill the tartlets, and bake nicely in 
 a moderate oven ; when cold, add a little 
 jam, have ready a meringue of four eggs, 
 lay a teaspoonful of each upon them, 
 spreading it quite flat with a knife ; orna- 
 ment the top with some of the mixture, 
 put into a paper cornet, sift sugar over, 
 place in a slow oven till a light brown 
 colpr, and the meringue quite crisp ; if 
 the oven be too hot, cover with pa- 
 per dress, and serve in pyramid on a 
 disiv They should be light-colored. 
 
 1278. LEMON TAETLET8. 
 
 Pare, rather thick, the rinds of four 
 lemons, which boil tender in two waters, 
 and beat fine ; add to it four ounces of 
 blanched almonds cut thin, four ounces 
 of lump-sugar, the juice of the lemons, 
 and a little grated peel ; simmer to a 
 syrup ; when cold, turn it into a shallow 
 tin tart dish lined with a rich thin puff 
 paste, and lay bars of paste over ; as 
 soon as the paste is baked, serve it. 
 
 1279. GREEN APRICOT TARTLETS. 
 When the wall-fruit trees are thinned, 
 take the thinnings before the stone is 
 formed ; stew them gently in sugar and 
 water. When tender, reduce and thicken 
 the syrup, and put it with the fruit into 
 
 pattypans ; or, if covered with a paste, 
 it is then called a pie. This also applies 
 to grapes. 
 
 1280. PRUNE TART. 
 
 
 
 Give prunes a scald, take out the 
 stones and break them ; put the kernels 
 into a little cranberry-juice, with the 
 prunes and sugar: simmer, and when 
 cold make a tart of the sweetmeat. 
 
 It must be almost needless to say that 
 tartlets of damsons, plums, and most sorts 
 of stone-fruit, may be made hi the same 
 manner,. 
 
 1281. TARTLETS 1 LA PAGANINI. 
 
 Beat up the whites of three eggs to a 
 froth, and then add five ounces of pound- 
 ed sugar ; beat it well up, and have your 
 pattypans ready covered with paste, upon 
 which put any quantity you please of 
 jam or marmalade ; bake them for about 
 a half an hour, and when done fill them 
 with the whip. This quantity will fill 
 sixteen pattypans of a small size. 
 
 * 
 
 1282. TO PREPARE CRANBERRIES FOR 
 TARTS. 
 
 Simmer them in moist sugar, without 
 Breaking, twenty minutes ; and let them 
 become cold before being used. A pint 
 will require nearfy three ounces of sugar. 
 
 1283. ALMOND PASTE. 
 
 Take a pound of sweet almonds, blanch 
 them in boiling water ; take off the peel, 
 and let them soak in cold water four 
 lours, then pound them well in a mortar ; 
 add a little water to prevent them from 
 turning to oil ; after they are very fine 
 and quite in a paste, put in three-quarters 
 of a pound of sugar well pounded, and 
 mix all together in the mortar. If your 
 paste is quite fine, take it out of the "mor- 
 ar, put it into a stewpan over a slow 
 ire, and stir it with a wooden spoon till 
 t becomes white and dry ; then put ft 
 again into the mortar, and mix with it a 
 
TARTS. 
 
 433 
 
 little melted gum that has been strained 
 through a towel ; take care to keep it 
 covered, to prevent it drying. You 
 may give what scent you please, as lemon, 
 vanilla, rose, orange, &c. &c. If you use 
 almond-paste to make vases, baskets, or 
 tartlets, keep -it always free from dust, 
 spread it on a marble with a rolling-pin 
 as thin as possible, and if you put it into 
 a mould, butter the mould lightly, and 
 give the paste the form of it. Bake in a 
 moderate oven. 
 
 Almond-paste should always be kept 
 in a gallipot, covered with a damp towel 
 to prevent its drying. 
 
 1284-TAETLETS OF ALMOND PASTE. 
 
 Butter some tartlet-moulds, and after 
 having spread the paste on the dresser, 
 cut it with a cutter to the size of the 
 moulds; put a little sweetmeat in the 
 middle, and a small rosette in the middle 
 of that. Bake in a moderate oven. 
 
 1285.-TAETLETS OF ALMOND PASTE WITH 
 STEAWBEEEIES. 
 
 Spread some almond-paste over the 
 pastry-table, and cut it with a fluted 
 cutter the same size as other tartlets ; 
 butter slightly the moulds, and put them 
 into a moderate oven. When the paste 
 is done almost white, take them out of 
 the mould, and garnish with currant 
 jelly, raspberry or apricot jam, &c. &c. 
 When the sweetmeats do not go to the 
 oven, tbey are always of a better color 
 and taste. 
 
 1286. APEICOT SWEETMEAT FOE TAETS. 
 
 Take a pound of ripe apricots, remove 
 the stones, break them and blanch the 
 kernels, add one pound and a half of 
 green gages and one pound and a quarter 
 of lump sugar ; simmer it until the fruit 
 becomes a jam. It must not boil, and 
 must be kept well skimmed ; clarified 
 sugar will be found the best to use for 
 this preserve. 
 
 1287. GOOSEBEEEY (GBEEN) TAET. 
 
 Use either whole gooseberries, or make 
 a marmalade of them with a good syrup ; 
 the last method is perhaps the best, as 
 you can tell easily how sweet they are 
 and ought to be ; if made of marmalade 
 the seeds ought to be taken out. Green 
 currants and grapes the same way. 
 
 1288. OEANGE TAETS. 
 
 Take some oranges, pare them very 
 thin, soak them in water for two or three 
 days, changing the water often, then boil 
 them till they become soft and lose their 
 bitterness ; when cold cut a thick slice 
 off the top and bottom, and the rest the 
 thickness of a crown piece ; line the tart- 
 let-pans with puff paste, and fill them 
 with layers of sugar and orange alter- 
 nately. 
 
 Pears, raspberries, cherries, &c., are 
 simply put into the paste with sugar, and 
 baked. 
 
 1289. CEOTJSTADE OE DEESDEN PATTIES. 
 
 Slice some stale bread about half an 
 inch thick ; cut from it, with a round 
 paste-cutter, as many croustades as will 
 be required: mark the centres with a 
 smaller cutter, scoop out the insides as in 
 paste patties, then fry them a light 
 brown, drain them well, and fill them 
 with any hot compote of fruit or hot pre- 
 serve. The croustade may be filled with 
 any sort of minced meat or fowl and 
 served as an entree in the first course. 
 They are very nice made with the rounds 
 of a French roll; it should be pared 
 very thin, then cut in rounds of such 
 thickness, as to allow the centres to be 
 taken out; dip them in milk, and let 
 them drain ; do not let them break ; brush 
 them with egg, and sift the rasping of 
 the roll over them; fry them a pale 
 brown, and fill with oysters, stewed 
 mushrooms, &c., or, as above, with fruit 
 or preserve. 
 
434 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 1290. PATTIES KESEMBLING MINCE PIES. 
 
 Chop the kidney and fat of cold veal, 
 apple, orange, and lemon-peel candied, 
 fresh currants, a little wine, two or three 
 cloves, a little brandy, and a bit of sugar. 
 Bake as before. 
 
 1291.-PATTIES WITH CUKDS. 
 
 Take some very rich milk, put into it 
 some lemon-juice or vinegar, place it on 
 the fire that it may curdle, drain off the 
 whey through a, sieve ; add to the curds 
 the yolk of an egg beaten up in two 
 spoonfuls of milk, a few currants, and a 
 little pounded cinnamon. Make the 
 paste and prepare the patties in the same 
 way as in the preceding receipt. 
 
 1292. CHEESECAKES. 
 
 Strain the whey from the curd of two 
 quarts of milk ; when rather dry crumble 
 it through a coarse sieve, and mix with 
 six ounces of fresh butter, one ounce .of 
 pounded blanched almonds, a little 
 orange-flower water, half a glass of 
 raisin wine, a grated biscuit, four ounces 
 of currants, some nutmeg and cinnamon 
 in fine powder, and beat all the above 
 with three eggs and half a pint of cream 
 till quite light : then line the pattypans 
 with a thin puff paste, and fill them three 
 parts full. 
 
 1293. BEEAD CHEESECAKES. 
 
 Slice a loaf as thin as possible, pour on 
 it' a pint of boiling cream, let it stand 
 two hours ; then take eight eggs, half a 
 pound of butter and a nutmeg gratedj 
 beat them well together, put in half a 
 pound of currants well washed and dried 
 before the fire, and bake them in raised 
 crusts or pattypans. 
 
 1294. MISS BKATTY'S CHEESECAKES. 
 
 The yolks of eight eggs, eight ounces 
 of sugar finely powdered and sifted, eight 
 ounces of sweet almonds powdered, beat 
 
 all together till very white. Line the 
 pans with a thin paste; immediately be- 
 fore you put them into the oven, mix the 
 size of a walnut of butter melted into 
 them over a fire. If the oven be too hot, 
 they will fall when taken out. 
 
 Or: Ten eggs, leave -out half the 
 whites, one pound of sugar finely pow- 
 dered and sifted, half a pound of flour, 
 three ounces of butter, three ounces of 
 sweet almonds, with a glass of brandy 
 put into them while they are pounding. 
 Beat them all together, and butter the 
 pans very well. * 
 
 1295. LEMON CHEESECAKES. 
 
 Mix four ounces of gifted lump sugar 
 and four ounces of butter, and gently 
 melt it ; then add the yolks of two and 
 the white of one egg, the rind of three 
 lemons shred fine, and the juice of one 
 and a half, one Savoy biscuit, some 
 blanched almonds pounded, three spoon- 
 fuls of brandy. 
 
 1296. ORANGE CHEESECAKES. 
 
 When you have blanched half a pound 
 of almonds, beat them very fine, with 
 orange-flower water, half a pound of fine 
 sugar beaten and sifted, and one pound 
 of butter that has been melted carefully 
 without oiling, and which must be nearly 
 cold before you use it; then beat the 
 yolks of ten and whites of four eggs ; 
 pound two candied oranges, and a fresh 
 one with the bitterness boiled out, till 
 as tender as marmalade', without any 
 lumps ; beat the whole together, and put 
 into pattypans. 
 
 1297. ALMOND CHEESECAKES. 
 
 Press the whey from as much turd as 
 will fill two dozen small pattypans ; then 
 put it on the back of a sieve, and with half 
 an ounce of butter, rub it through with 
 the back of a spoon ; put to it six yolks 
 and three whites of eggs, and a few al- 
 
CHEESECAKES. 
 
 435 
 
 monds of both sorts pounded, with as 
 much sugar as will make the curd pro- 
 perly sweet; mix with these a wine- 
 glassful of sherry or Madeira, in which 
 boil the rind of a Seville orange, if } r ou 
 can get one ; or, if not, a large ripe one 
 of the common kind, with all its juice. 
 Beat all gradually together, and when 
 thoroughly blended fill the pattypans ; 
 the baking will take from a quarter of 
 an hour to twenty minutes. 
 
 1298. POTATO CHEESECAKE. 
 
 Four ounces of butter, the same of 
 pounded sugar, six ounces of potatoes 
 boiled and floured through a sieve, the 
 rind of one lemon, and half the juice, 
 unless acid is desirable; mix these in- 
 gredients well together, with two eggs, 
 and fill the tart-pan and bake it.' 
 
 Potato Clmse is celebrated in various 
 parts of Europe. It is made thus : 
 Boil good white potatoes, and when cool, 
 peel them and rasp or mash them to a 
 light pulp ; to five pounds of this, which 
 must be free from lumps, add a pint of 
 sour milk and salt to taste ; knead the 
 whole well, cover it, and leave it for three 
 or four days, according to the season ; 
 then knead it afresh, and put the cheeses 
 into small baskets, when they will part 
 with their superfluous moisture; dry 
 them in the shade, and place them in 
 layers in large pots or kegs, where they 
 may remain a fortnight. The older they 
 are, the finer they become. This cheese, 
 it is said, never engenders worms, and 
 in well closed vessels, in a dry place, 
 will keep for years. (This receipt is 
 from an old English work). 
 
 1299. CHEESECAKE-STOCK, THAT WILL 
 KEEP FOE SEVERAL YEAES. 
 
 To a quarter of a pound of butter put 
 one pound of loaf-sugar broken into small 
 pieces, six eggs, leaving out two whites, 
 the rind of three lemons grated, and the 
 
 juice of three ; put them all into a pan, 
 and let them simmer over the fire until 
 the sugar is dissolved, and it begins to 
 thicken like honey. When cold put it 
 into sweetmeat pots for use. When 
 made into cheesecakes, add grated sweet 
 biscuits. 
 
 Line the small tartlet pans used for 
 these small cakes with good, but not too 
 light, puff-paste : make them of a deep 
 yellow color, and put on each a strip of 
 candied citron. 
 
 1300. ICING FOE FETJIT PIE AND 
 TAETS. 
 
 The common mode is to take the white 
 of an egg, whisked to a froth, mixed 
 thickly with pounded sugar, and laid on 
 with a quill feather. For larger tarts it 
 should, however, be laid on more thickly, 
 and comfits or lemon-peel may be stuck 
 into it. 
 
 1301. SOYEE'S CHEESECAKES. 
 
 Take four quarts of milk and turn it 
 with some fresh runnet ; when dry crum- 
 ble it and sift it through a coarse sieve 
 into a bowl, beat it well up with a quar- 
 ter of a pound of butter until it is quite 
 smooth (it may require a little more 
 butter, depending on the quality of the 
 milk) ; mix in another bowl the yolks of 
 four eggs and a quarter of a pound of 
 very fine sifted biscuit-powder, the rind 
 of four lemons, the juice of two, a quar- 
 ter of a pound of powdered sugar (some 
 add a little grated nutmeg or cinnamon), 
 beat these all well up together until form- 
 ing a stiff cream, then put it by degrees 
 into the bowl with curd, and mix them 
 well together; line some tartlet pans, 
 previously buttered, with some paste, 
 and place some of the above mixture in, 
 and bake quick. In some places milk is 
 used instead of eggs. Should you not 
 have rennet, procure some good milk 
 and turn it with the juice of a lemon or 
 a teaspoonful of soda or culinary alkali 
 
436 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 to a quart of milk ; drain the curd, and 
 proceed as before. . 
 
 1302.-RICHMOND MAIDS OF HONOR. 
 
 These delicious little cakes, which 
 every inhabitant of London who pays a 
 visit to the most picturesque part of its 
 environs knows so well, derive their 
 name from a period when cookery was 
 not thought to be a degrading occupation 
 for those honored with that title. It 
 is stated that they originated with the 
 maids of honor of Queen Elizabeth, who 
 had a palace at Richmond. 
 
 Sift half a pound of dry curd, mix it 
 well with six ounces of good butter, 
 break the yolks of four eggs into another 
 basin, and a glass of brandy ; add to it 
 six ounces of powdered lump-sugar, and 
 beat well together one very floury 
 baked potato cold, one ounce of sweet 
 almonds, one ounce of bitter ditto 
 pounded, the grated rind of three lemons, 
 the juice of one, and half a nutmeg 
 grated, mix these well together and add 
 to the curds and butter ; stir well up, 
 and proceed as before, filling the tartlet- 
 pans. * 
 
 1303. PUDDINGS. 
 
 There are two different sorts of paste 
 for puddings, one for meat and the other 
 for fruit. 
 
 For Meat Pudding. To one pound 
 of flour add eight ounces of finely chop- 
 ped beef-suet cut from the kidney. Mix 
 it with water but do not wet it too much : 
 after mixing it well together with a 
 wooden spoon, roll out the paste and put 
 in the meat ; then close it ; boil it in a 
 cloth which has been floured, tie it up, 
 but leave sufficient room to permit the 
 swelling of the paste. 
 
 Veal-suet may also be used, but that 
 of beef is better ; or a mixture of both 
 is not bad. If puddings be boiled in 
 shapes, the crust is not near so light. 
 
 For Fruit Puddings the paste should 
 be made as for a pie using butter instead 
 of suet ; but. unless for the sake of ap- 
 pearance, they should never be boiled in 
 shapes. A very little salt added to all 
 paste much improves it. 
 
 Sweet Pudding. Very good puddings 
 may be made without eggs j but they 
 should have very little liquid added to 
 them, and must boil longer than puddings 
 with eggs. A spoonful of yeast will" 
 serve instead of two eggs, and a pinch of 
 soda will make it still lighter. Two 
 large spoonfuls of snow will supply the 
 place of one egg, and make a pudding 
 equally good. This is a useful piece of 
 information, as snow generally falls in 
 the season when eggs are dear. The 
 sooner it is used after it falls the bettor ; 
 but it may be taken up from a clean spot, 
 and kept in a cool place some hours, 
 without losing its good qualities. Bot- 
 tled malt-liquors are also a good substi- 
 tute for eggs ; the sooner used after the 
 cork is drawn the better. Eggs should 
 always be broken separately into a cup 
 before they are thrown together, as a 
 single bad one might occasion the loss of 
 a great many without this precaution : 
 the yolks and whites, beaten long and 
 separately, make the article they are put 
 into much lighter. They must alwaj^s 
 be strained after beating. 
 
 To avoid repetition, let it be observed 
 that, when pudding sauce is ordered, 
 wine, sugar, and very thick melted but- 
 ter, boiled up together, is the sauce in- 
 tended. 
 
 If the pudding be partly of bread, the 
 cloth should be tied so as to allow for 
 swelling ; if of flour, rather more tight. 
 
 Basins or forms are much better in ap- 
 pearance than cloths for boiling puddings, 
 but it makes them far less light. 
 
 The water should boil quickly, when 
 the pudding is put in, and care taken 
 that it continues to do so, or the pudding 
 
SAYOET PUDDINGS. 
 
 437 
 
 will be heavy ; and it should be moved 
 about for a minute or two, that the in- 
 gredients may not separate. 
 
 All dishes in which puddings are bak- 
 ed should be lined with paste an inch or 
 two below the edge, as well as on it ; the 
 dish must be first rubbed with butter. 
 If a pudding is to be turned out from a 
 mould, it must be entirely lined with 
 paste. 
 
 The ingredients of puddings should 
 not be put into the basin or dish till the 
 minute they go into the water or oven. 
 
 Sago, and all sorts of seeds, should lie 
 ji water an hour before they are made 
 into puddings, and be well washed ; the 
 want of this caution causes an earthy 
 taste. 
 
 If the butter be strong that is used in 
 puddings, they will not taste well, what- 
 ever good things are added. 
 
 A small pinch of salt improves the 
 flavor of all mixtures, even when the other 
 ingredients are sweet. 
 
 Well-made raisin or Cape wine will 
 serve, in most cases, when wine is order- 
 ed for puddings. 
 
 As the goodness of boiled puddings 
 greatly depends upon keeping the in- 
 gredients closely but not too compactly 
 together, the cook should take care to 
 have moulds and basins in readiness 
 that will exactly hold the quantity di- 
 rected. 
 
 Puddings of bread or flour are much 
 better if all the ingredients be mixed (ex- 
 cept the eggs) three hours before boiling 
 or baking ; and they should be well stir- 
 red just before they are put into the oven 
 or saucepan. 
 
 Plum-puddings are best boiled in a 
 stout cloth well floured ; care should be 
 taken that it does not burn to the bottom 
 of the kettle ; to prevent this put a plate 
 at the bottom. When the pudding is of 
 a large size it is best to mix all but the 
 liquid ingredients the day before it is 
 boiled. 
 
 28 
 
 When butter is ordered to be put 
 warm into puddings, the addition of a 
 little milk or wine will prevent its 
 oiling. 
 
 Custard Puddings to look well should 
 simmer only, but without stopping. If 
 boiled in a quick or careless manner the 
 surface will not be smooth, but have little 
 holes like honey-comb all over it. A 
 sheet of writing-paper, thickly buttered, 
 should be put on the top of the mould 
 before the lid or cloth is put on. and the 
 pudding should stand in the mould five 
 minutes after being lifted from the water. 
 Many persons prefer their puddings 
 steamed, but when this is not done they 
 shonld be put into plenty of boiling 
 water, and kept well covered. 
 
 Half an hour should be allowed for 
 boiling a ^read-pudding in a half-pint 
 basin, and so on in proportion ; but pud- 
 dings made up with half a pound of suet 
 and any other ingredients, will require 
 two hours. 
 
 1304. SUET PUDDINGS. 
 
 Finely chop one pound of beef suet ; 
 mix with it one pound and a quarter of 
 flour, two eggs well beaten, a little salt, 
 and as little milk as will mix it. Boil 
 four hours. It eats well next day cut in 
 slices and fried, and may be eaten either 
 with salt or sugar. 
 
 Or : Take eight ounces of grated 
 bread, three ounces of finely chopped 
 suet, and four ounces of pounded loaf- 
 sugar, the juice and grated peel of two 
 lemons, and one egg well beaten ; mix all 
 together; put it into a buttered basin, 
 and boil one hour ; or make it into dump- 
 lings, and boil twenty minutes. Serve 
 with wine sauce. 
 
 Of teal-suet, cut the crumb x of a 
 loaf into slices; boil and sweeten two 
 quarts of new milk, and pour over 
 it. When soaked, pour out a little of 
 the milk, and mix with six eggs well 
 
438 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 beaten and half a nutmeg. Lay the 
 slices of bread into a dish, with layers of 
 currants and finely chopped veal-suet, 
 one pound of each. Butter the dish 
 well, and bake ; or you may boil it in a 
 basin if you prefer it. 
 
 Balls of suet-pudding, not larger than 
 the size of an egg, are put into gravy 
 soup. They will take from twenty min- 
 utes to half an hour boiling ; in that time 
 they will be done through, and so light as 
 to swim to the top. They may be also 
 served separately, and are an excellent 
 accompaniment to corned beef. 
 
 1805 BAKED CHICKEN PUDDING. 
 
 Cut up a pair of young chickens, and 
 season them with pepper and salt, a little 
 nutmeg and allspice. Put them into a 
 pot with two large spoonfuls of butter, 
 and water enough to cover them. Stew 
 them gently, and when about half cooked, 
 take them out and set them away to 
 cool. Pour off the gravy, and reserve it 
 to be served up separately. Make batter of 
 a pound of sifted flour, stirred gradually 
 into a quart of milk, six eggs well beaten 
 and added by degrees to the mixture with 
 a very little salt. Put a layer of chicken 
 into a very deep dish, and pour over it 
 some of the batter ; then another layer 
 of chicken and another of batter ; havin 
 a cover of batter at the top. Bake till 
 brown. Break an egg into the reserved 
 sauce, boil up, and serve it in a sauce 
 tureen to eat with the pudding. 
 
 1806. BEEFSTEAK PUDDING. 
 
 Of all savory puddings perhaps those 
 made with beef are the best. The follow- 
 ing is the mode of making them in all the 
 clubs : 
 
 Take from one pound to one pound anc 
 a half of the inside of a sirloin of beef 
 or the same quantity of rump -steak 
 cutting off part of the fat : beat it unti 
 tender, cut it thin, and divide it intc 
 
 small slices along with two mutton kid- 
 neys or one veal kidney ; to these add a 
 dozen of native oysters, bearded. The 
 whole is then seasoned with pepper and 
 salt and a minced shalot. Boil it from 
 two and a half to three hours. When 
 done have ready some strong beef gravy, 
 made savory with a little mushroom ket- 
 chup ; make a hole in the paste and pour 
 t into the pudding. 
 
 If for a family pudding, the oysters 
 and the kidneys may be omitted : let the 
 steak be prepared as above, adding, if 
 you choose, some layers of sliced 
 
 onions. 
 
 130T. PLUM POEEIDGE. 
 
 Boil eight pounds of shin of beef for 
 five hours in a gallon of water, skimming 
 carefully throughout, and finally straining 
 off the liquor; add two pounds of meat 
 cut small. Soften the crumb of a small 
 loaf in some of the liquor, beat it smooth, 
 thicken the soup with it, add half a pound 
 of stoned raisins, the same quantity of 
 stoned prunes, a pound of well washed 
 currants, and grated nutmeg, pepper, and 
 mace to taste, and boil until the fruit is 
 soft, then serve. 
 
 1308. TOEKSHIRE PUDDING. 
 
 Make a batter with a pint of milk, four 
 eggs, and four table- spoonfuls of flour, 
 seasoned with salt. It is to be well 
 stirred, and put into the pan under roast- 
 ing beef or baked beef, to be cooked with 
 the drippings. It will bake in about two 
 hours. Serve it in pieces round the 
 meat, on the same dish. 
 
 1309. GAME PUDDINGS. 
 
 Game of any description may be made 
 into puddings, and when partly boned, 
 well spiced, with minced truffle or mush- 
 room, mace, and a clove of garlic, and 
 boiled within a light paste, they are very 
 rich, and the paste particularly fine, as it 
 absorbs so much of the gravy j but the 
 
SAVOET PUDDINGS. 
 
 439 
 
 boiling deprives the game of much of its 
 high flavor, and a woodcock or a snipe 
 should never be so dressed, as they lose 
 all the savor of the trail. 
 
 Or : Make a batter with flour, milk, 
 eggs, pepper, and salt ; pour a little into 
 the bottom of a pudding-dish ; then put 
 seasoned poultry or game of any kind 
 into it, and a little shred onion; pour 
 the remainder of the batter over, and 
 bake in a slow oven. 
 
 A single chicken, partridge, or pigeon 
 may be thus made into a dumpling: 
 Stuff it with chopped oysters, lay it on 
 its back in the paste, and put a bit of 
 butter rolled in flour on the breast ; close 
 the paste in the form of a dumpling, put 
 into hot water, and let it boil for two 
 hours. 
 
 1310. MAEEOW PUDDING. 
 
 Grate the inside of part of a stale 
 loaf. Make a quart of milk quite hot, 
 and pour over it, letting it remain till it 
 is sufficiently swelled and soaked. Shred 
 half a pound of marrow, or good suet, 
 and beat up four eggs. Pick and plump 
 up two ounces of currants, and stone two 
 ounces of the best raisins. Mix them all 
 up together ; stir in a few blanched al- 
 monds, and a little candied citron* and 
 orange and lemon peel. Sweeten the 
 pudding to your taste, and season it with 
 grated nutmeg and powdered cinnamon. 
 Cover a stoneware, flat dish, round the 
 edge, with a shred of puff-paste, and 
 mark it neatly. If baked in a flat dish, 
 twenty-five minutes will be sufficient ; if 
 in a deep dish it will require half an hour. 
 A little finely pounded lump sugar is 
 sometimes strewed over the top, and 
 blanched almonds, sliced, stuck round for 
 ornament. This is a very light and de- 
 licate baked pudding. It is sometimes 
 boiled in a shape. This makes a delicious 
 dish. 
 
 1811. HEEB PUDDING. 
 
 Pick two handfuls of parsley-leaves 
 from the stems, half the quantity of 
 spinach, two hearts of lettuces, a large 
 handful of mustard and cress, a few 
 leaves of white beet, and a small handful 
 of chives: wash, and boil all together 
 three minutes ; drain the water from 
 them, and mash very fine ; mix well, and 
 add salt and pepper. Have ready a 
 batter, made of one ounce of flour, a pint 
 of thin cream and two eggs ; stir it into 
 the herbs, and cover the dish with a good 
 crust. 
 
 This pudding has much the flavor of 
 omelet ; and in Lent, when the salads are 
 all coming into season, it may be very 
 aptly brought to table on fast-days. 
 
 Tansy-Pudding. Pound a handful of 
 green tansy in a mortar ; add the juice to 
 a pint of batter and bake it. 
 
 1312. GOOSE PUDDING. 
 
 Half a pound of bread-crumbs soaked 
 in a little boiling milk, when cold, add 
 two or three eggs, a little salt, pepper, 
 marjoram, and thyme, a spoonful of oat- 
 meal, a good handful of suet, and an onion 
 chopped fine. Spread it in a dripping- 
 pan, and bake it under the goose. 
 
 SWEET PUDDINGS. 
 
 Under this head the plum-pudding 
 stands foremost as a truly national dish. 
 The following receipt, communicated by 
 a man-cook of much experience, we can 
 vouch for as an excellent way of mak- 
 ing a 
 
 1818. EICH PLUM PUDDING. 
 
 Stone carefully one pound of the best 
 raisins, wash and pick one pound of cur- 
 rants,* chop very small one pound of fresh 
 
 * The best method of cleansing currants is to put 
 them into a common colander, over a pan with suf- 
 ficient water to cover them, rub them well between 
 
440 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 beef suet, blanch and chop small or pound 
 two ounces of sweet almonds and one 
 ounce of bitter ones ; mix the whole well 
 together, with one pound of sifted flour, 
 and the same weight of crumb of bread 
 soaked in milk, then squeezed dry and 
 stirred with a spoon until reduced to a 
 mash, before it is mixed with the flour. 
 Cut in small pieces two ounces each of 
 preserved citron, orange, and lemon-peel, 
 and add a quarter of an ounce of mixed 
 spice : a quarter of a pound of moist 
 sugar should be put into a basin, with 
 eight eggs, and well beaten together with 
 a three-pronged fork ; stir this with the 
 pudding, and make it of a proper con- 
 sistence with milk. Remember that it 
 must not be made too thin, or the fruit 
 will sink to the bottom, but be made to 
 the consistence of good thick batter. 
 Two wine-glassfuls of brandy should be 
 poured over the fruit and spice, mixed 
 together in a basin, and allowed to stand 
 three or four hours before the pudding is 
 made, stirring them occasionally. It 
 must be tied in a cloth, and will take 
 five hours of constant boiling. When 
 done, turn it out on a dish, sift loaf-sugar 
 over the top, and serve it with wine-sauce 
 in a boat, and some poured round the 
 pudding. 
 
 The pudding will be of considerable 
 size, but half the quantity of materials 
 used in the same proportion, will be 
 equally good. 
 
 In addition to the wine-sauce, have a 
 metal sauce-boat filled with brandy ; set 
 it alight on the table, and pour a portion 
 of it in a flame upon each slice of pud- 
 ding. 
 
 1314.-ENGLI8H PLUM PUDDING. (Original)- 
 
 One pound of fine white flour, sifted ; 
 
 the hands in the water to separate the knobs, and 
 Btir them about. The small sand and gravel -will 
 then fall through the holes and sink to the bottom 
 of the pan. After being washed clean, and the 
 water drained from them, the large stones can then 
 be easily picked out by sorting them over on a large 
 dish. 
 
 add a little salt ; one pound of beef suet 
 chopped as fine as meal, one pound of 
 brown sugar, one pound of stoned rai- 
 sins, one pound of Z ante currants, three- 
 quarters of a pound of citron, one nut- 
 meg, one teaspoonful of allspice, one 
 ditto of cloves, two ditto of mace, grate 
 in the rind of three large fresh lemons. 
 Weigh each article after it is prepared, 
 allowing for the moisture in the currants, 
 as they cannot be dried perfectly. Mix 
 the ingredients together very thorough- 
 ly; first, the flour and suet then add 
 the other articles and rub the mixture 
 again ; this should be done the day be- 
 fore the pudding is to be cooked. 
 
 Immediately before the final mixture, 
 add ten eggs, well beaten, one gill of 
 milk and one of brandy. Tie the mix- 
 ture in a well buttered cloth, and boil 
 for seven hours. The cloth used should 
 be very strong. 
 
 To be served with brandy-sauce, and 
 brought to the table in burning brandy. 
 
 1815. THE BAKED PLUM PUDDING. 
 
 Ten crackers soaked in milk, five eggs, 
 one pound of raisins, half a pound of 
 suet, half a pound of chopped apple, two 
 glasses of brandy, dark spice and mace, 
 salt to the taste half a pound of citron, 
 sugar to the taste. Bake three hours 
 and serve with cold sauce. 
 
 1816.-GEOUND EICE PUDDING. (Mrs. G.'s 
 Keceipt). 
 
 Boil half a pound of rice in five pints 
 of milk; add half a pound of butter, 
 three-quarters of sugar, ten eggs, two 
 nutmegs, and mace with a little salt : 
 bake in a dish. 
 
 131T MAELBOEOUGH PUDDING. (Furnished 
 by a Lady of New York.) 
 
 Stew eighteen apples and strain them ; 
 add a quarter of a pound of melted but- 
 ter, with rose water, ten eggs, the juice 
 and rind of two lemons, sugar to taste, 
 and bake in paste. 
 
SWEET PUDDINGS. 
 
 441 
 
 131S.-BOSTON PUDDING. 
 
 Make a good common paste with a 
 pound and a half of flour, and three- 
 quarters of a pound of butter. When 
 you roll it out the last time, cut off the 
 edges till you get the sheet of paste of 
 an even square shape. Have ready some 
 fruit, sweetened to your taste. If cran- 
 berries, gooseberries, dried peaches, or 
 damsons ; they should be stewed, and 
 made very sweet. If apples, they should 
 be stewed in a very little water, drained, 
 and seasoned with nutmeg, rosewater, 
 and lemon. If currants, raspberries, or 
 blackberries, they should be mashed with 
 sugar, and put into the pudding raw. 
 Spread the fruit very thick, all over the 
 sheet of paste (which must not be rolled 
 out too thin). When it is covered all 
 over with the fruit, roll it up and close 
 the dough at both ends, and down the 
 last side. Tie the pudding in a cloth, 
 and boil it. Eat it with sugar. It must 
 not be taken out of the pot till just be- 
 fore it is brought to table. 
 
 1319. ALMOND PUDDING AND SAUCE. 
 
 A large cupful of finely-minced beef 
 suet, a teacupful of milk, four ounces of 
 bread-crumbs, four ounces of well cleaned 
 currants, two ounces of almonds, half a 
 pound of stoned raisins, three well beaten 
 eggs, and the whites of other two ; sugar, 
 nutmeg, and cinnamon, and a small glass 
 of rum. Butter a shape, and place part 
 of the raisins neatly in rows. Blanch 
 the almonds ; reserve the half of them 
 to be placed in rows between the raisins 
 just before serving. Mix all the remain- 
 ing ingredients well together, put into 
 the shape, and boil three hours. The 
 sauce one teaspoonful of milk, and two 
 yolks of eggs well beaten, and some 
 sugar ; place on the fire and stir till it 
 just comes to the T)oil^ then let it cool. 
 When lukewarm, stir into it a glass of 
 sherry or currant wine, and serve in a 
 
 sauce tureen. This sauce is a great im- 
 provement to raisin pudding. 
 
 1320. -POLKA PUDDING. 
 
 Mix four table-spoonfuls of arrow-root 
 in a pint of cold milk. Beat four eggs 
 well, add them, three ounces of fresh 
 butter, cut into small bits; a dessert- 
 spoonful of rosewater ; a few drops of 
 essence of lemon, or ratafia, and a tea- 
 cupful of sugar. Boil two pints of milk 
 in a saucepan ; when boiling stir in the 
 other ingredients; without taking the 
 pan off the fire, let it boil till thick, then 
 pour into a mould to cool. Turn it out 
 and serve it cold. 
 
 1821. JENNY LIND'S PUDDING. 
 
 Grate the crumb of half a loaf, butter 
 and dish well and lay in a thick layer of 
 the crumbs ; pare ten or twelve apples, 
 cut them down, and put a layer of them 
 and sugar; then crumbs alternately, 
 until the dish is full ; put a bit of butter 
 on the top, and bake it in an oven, or 
 American reflector. An excellent and 
 economical pudding. 
 
 1322. NEWCASTLE PUDDING. 
 
 Butter a basin or mould, stick it all 
 round with sultanas or dried cherries, 
 then put in a slice of bread-crumb soaked 
 in milk, and over that layers of thin 
 bread-crumb buttered, until three parts 
 filled ; fill up with custard,, and boil for 
 an hour and a half. 
 
 1323. EICHELIEU PUDDING. 
 
 Steep the crumb of a large slice of 
 bread in milk, warm as from the cow ; 
 let it rest, and then strain off the milk ; 
 beat up the yolk of an egg, mix it with 
 the bread, also a bit of butter ; put it 
 into a saucepan, and boil till it becomes 
 stiff; let it cool, and then add some 
 chopped parsley, thyme, pepper and salt ; 
 beat up two eggs; mince about one 
 
442 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 pound of any cold meat, and add all to- 
 gether. Boil in a basin for three hours, 
 and when dished ; pour a good gravy 
 over it. 
 
 1324 PAEADISE PUDDING. 
 
 Take three eggs, three apples pared, 
 cored-, and cut small, three ounces each 
 of the crumb of French rolls, sugar, and 
 currants, a little nutmeg and salt, the 
 rind of a lemon pared very thin and cut 
 very fine, and a wine-glassful of brandy 
 or white wine ; stir well, pour into a but- 
 tered mould, and boil for an hour ; then 
 serve with melted butter, wine and sugar. 
 
 1325. HASTY PUDDING. 
 
 Set some milk on the fire, and, when 
 it boils, put in ,a little salt. Stir in by 
 degrees as much flour as will make it of 
 a proper thickness. Let it boil quickly 
 a few minutes, beating it constantly while 
 on the fire. Pour it into a dish, and eat 
 it with cold butter and sugar. Some 
 persons add eggs to this. 
 
 1826. HASTY PUDDING. 
 
 Boil water, a quart, three pints, or 
 two quarts, according to the size of your 
 family ; sift your meal, stir five or six 
 spoonfuls of it thoroughly into a bowl of 
 water ; when the water in the kettle 
 boils, pour into it the contents of the 
 bowl ; stir it well and let it boil up thick j 
 put in salt to suit your own taste, then 
 stand over the kettle, and sprinkle HI 
 meal, handful after handful, stirring it 
 very thoroughly all the time, and letting 
 it boil between whiles. When it is so 
 thick that you stir it with difficulty, it is 
 about right. It takes about half an 
 hour's cooking. Eat it with milk or 
 molasses. Either Indian meal or rye 
 meal may be used. If the system is in a 
 restricted state, nothing can be better 
 than rye hasty pudding and West India 
 molasses. This diet would save many a 
 one from the horrors of dyspepsia. 
 
 1827. TO MAKE AN ALMOND PUD- 
 DING. 
 
 Pound in your mortar a quarter of a 
 pound of sweet almonds, add a table- 
 spoonful of water when you are pound- 
 ing, take it out of the mortar; have 
 ready broken seven eggs, leaving out five 
 of the whites, add a quarter of a pound 
 of sifted sugar, mix all lightly together ; 
 cut in small dice a little candy, orange, 
 and lemon-peel, butter and paper a plain 
 mould, or one that will open j bake it in 
 a moderate oven. 
 
 1S28.-FAEINA PUDDING. 
 
 One quart of milk, six eggs, eight table- 
 spoonfuls of flour, three tablespoonfuls 
 of farina, one teaspoonful of salt. 
 
 Boil the milk ; while boiling, sift into 
 it the farina ; beat the eggs, yolks and 
 whites separately ; stir into the yolks the 
 flour and salt, and cold milk enough to 
 make a stiff batter ; then stir in the 
 whites, and, lastly, the boiling milk. 
 Butter a baking dish, and bake for half 
 an hour. Eat with wine sauce, or sugar 
 and butter. 
 
 1329. A BAKED APPLE DUMPLING. 
 
 Pare and quarter four large apples, 
 boil them tender with the rind of a lemon 
 in so little water that nothing may re- 
 main when done but the juice ; add the 
 crumb of a small roll, four ounces butter, 
 melted, the yolks of five and whites of 
 three eggs, the juice of half a lemon, and 
 sugar to taste j beat all together, and lay 
 it in a dish ; then beat the two remain- 
 ing whites to a froth, and throw it round 
 the edge of the dish ; grate a little white 
 sugar over when baked. 
 
 1330. LEMON PUDDING. 
 
 Half a pound of flour, or grated 
 bread, half a pound of suet cut very 
 fine, half a pound of crushed sugar ; the 
 
SWEET PUDDINGS. 
 
 443 
 
 rind of two lemons, and the juice of 
 one, two eggs ; boil it four hours in a 
 shape. Served up without sauce it is 
 excellent. 
 
 1881. -A PLAIN EICE PUDDING. 
 
 To make a plain rice pudding, boil a 
 pint of rice until it is quite soft. Mix 
 two ounces of butter and four table- 
 spoonfuls of sugar, a quart of rich milk 
 with the rice, boil them up together and 
 let them partially cool. Beat five eggs 
 until they are quite light and stir them 
 into the rice. It should bake about an 
 hour. 
 
 1832. EICE MILK. 
 
 This dish is an excellent one, and very 
 simply and quickly made. After wash- 
 ing a pint of rice in two different waters, 
 boil it well with about half a pound of 
 raisins from which the stems have been 
 carefully picked. Pour off the water, 
 and mix a quart of rich milk with the 
 rice. Let it boil for about five minutes, 
 and after mixing with it four table-spoon- 
 fuls of brown sugar, beat two eggs until 
 they are light, and pour them into the 
 milk, stirring it all the time. After the 
 rice and eggs are well mixed together, 
 they should boil from three to five min- 
 utes. If they are not well stirred, the 
 eggs will form a custard on the surface, 
 which is not desirable. 
 
 1333. BIED'S NEST PUDDING. 
 
 If you wish to make what is called 
 "bird's nest puddings," prepare your s 
 custard, take eight or ten pleasant ap- 
 ples, pare them, dig out the core, but 
 leave them whole, set them in a pudding- 
 dish, pour your custard over them, and 
 bake them about thirty minutes. 
 
 1884. OEANGE PUDDING. 
 
 Wash half a pound of butter until all 
 
 the salt is extracted, then mix it well 
 with half a pound of powdered white 
 sugar, and a wine-glass of brandy wine 
 may be used but it is not as good. Grate 
 the rind of three ordinary-sized oranges 
 and squeeze their juice. Beat together 
 six fresh eggs, and stir them into the but- 
 ter and sugar, after which, add the pre- 
 pared orange. Lay a border of puff- 
 paste around the pudding-dish, and then 
 bake from half to three quarters of an 
 hour. Serve it cold, and grate over 
 white sugar mixed with a little nutmeg. 
 The latter ingredient, however, is not 
 generally preferred. Lemon Pudding 
 may be made in the same manner; 
 substituting lemons for oranges. 
 
 1335.-QUINCE PUDDING. 
 
 Pare six large quinces, cut out the 
 cores and blemishes, chop them as fine as 
 possible, and boil them two hours with 
 as little water as possible, stirring them 
 frequently that they may not burn. 
 Drain off the water and mix them, when 
 cold, with a pint of cream and half a 
 pound of powdered sugar. 
 
 
 1336. APPLE DUMPLINGS. 
 
 Pare and scoop out the core of six 
 large baking apples, put part of a clove, 
 and a little grated lemon-peel, inside of 
 each, and enclose them in pieces of puff 
 paste ; boil them in nets for the purpose, 
 or bits of linen, for an hour. Before 
 serving, cut off a small bit from the top 
 of each, and put in a tea-spoonful of 
 sugar, and a bit of fresh butter j replace 
 the bit of paste, and strew over them 
 pounded loaf sugar. 
 
 1837. BATTEE PUDDING. 
 
 Into a pint and a half of sifted flour 
 stir gradually, so that it may not be 
 lumpy, a quart of milk. Beat seven 
 eggs, and put in, together with a couple 
 
444 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 of table-spoonfuls of melted butter, and a 
 couple of teaspoonfuls of salt. Grate in 
 half a nutmeg add, if you want the 
 pudding very rich, half a pound of raisins. 
 They should not be put into a baked pud- 
 ding till it has been cooking long enough 
 to thicken, so that the raisins will not 
 sink to the bottom of it. A pudding 
 made in this manner is good either baked 
 or boiled. It takes two hours to boil, 
 and an hour and a quarter to bake it. 
 "When boiled, the bag should not be more 
 than two-thirds full, as flour puddings 
 swell very much. It should be put into 
 boiling water, and kept boiling constantly. 
 If the water boils away, so as to leave 
 any part of the bag uncovered, more 
 boiling water should be added. When 
 the pudding has boiled eight or nine 
 minutes, the bag should be turned over, 
 otherwise the pudding will be heavy. 
 Flour puddings should be eaten as soon 
 as cooked, as they fall directly. Serve 
 them up with rich sauce. 
 
 1338.-SAGO PUDDING. 
 
 Pick, wash, and dry half a pound of 
 currants ; and put in such spices as best 
 suit the taste of those who are to eat it. 
 Have ready six table-spoonfuls of sago, 
 picked clean, and soaked for two hours 
 in cold water. Boil the sago in a quart 
 of milk till quite soft. Then stir alter- 
 nately into the milk, a quarter of a pound 
 of butter, and six ounces of powered 
 sugar, and set it away to cool. Beat 
 eight eggs, and when they are quite light, 
 stir them gradually into the milk, sago, 
 &c. Add the spice, and lastly the cur- 
 rants; having dredged them well with 
 flour to prevent their sinking. Stir the 
 whole very hard, put it into a buttered 
 dish, and bake it three-quarters of an 
 hour. It may be eaten cold. 
 
 1339. TAPIOCA PUDDING. 
 
 To two quarts of warm milk put eight 
 table-spoonfuls of tapioca, four beaten 
 
 eggs, a table-spoonful of butter, and cin- 
 namon or mace to the taste. Mix four 
 table-spoonfuls of white powdered sugar 
 and a wine-glass of wine, and stir it into 
 the rest of the ingredients. Turn thf 
 whole into a pudding dish that has a 
 lining of pastry and bake it immedi- 
 ately. 
 
 1340. INDIAN PUDDING. 
 
 Sift a pint of Indian meal and scald it 
 with boiling water. Place over the fire 
 a quart of milk, cut up a quarter of a 
 pound of butter and melt it in the hot 
 milk add a pint of sugar-house molas- 
 ses, and mix them together until the 
 milk boils. Stir it into the meal, mixing 
 it well with a wooden spoon. Beat 
 seven eggs, until they are perfectly light, 
 pour them into the bowl that holds the 
 meal, with ten drops of the essence of 
 lemon, or a little lemon-juice. 
 
 Stir the mixture until it seems quite 
 light, and bake it in a moderately hot 
 oven. 
 
 1841. A BAKED BEEAD PUDDING. 
 
 This is a very excellent dish when 
 properly mixed. Crumble half a loaf of 
 bread, a stale loaf is preferable, and cut 
 up the crust as small as possible. Boil 
 a quart of milk, cut up a quarter of a 
 pound of butter in slices, and melt it in 
 the hot milk add six table-spoonfuls of 
 sugar. Pour the milk over the bread, 
 and mix with it a glass of good brandy. 
 Brandy in which lemon-peel has been 
 soaked for some time, is the best for this 
 purpose, and gives a fine flavor to the 
 pudding. Beat seven eggs quite light, 
 and stir them into the mixture. If the 
 pudding is to be placed immediately in 
 the oven, it is not necessary that the 
 mixture should cool before the eggs are 
 added. 
 
 This pudding in a brisk oven will bake 
 in less than an hour. 
 
SWEET PUDDINGS. 
 
 445 
 
 1342-DEMI-PLUM PUDDING. 
 
 Prepare the mould, then add a layer 
 of plum pudding, broken in pieces, that 
 has been left from the previous day, al- 
 ternately, till full ; fill up with custard, 
 and steam or" bake for thirty minutes. 
 The remains of any kind of pudding 
 may be used thus. 
 
 1343.-MACAEONI PUDDING. 
 
 Simmer an ounce or two of macaroni 
 in a pint of milk, with a bit of lemon- 
 peel and cinnamon, till soft ; put it into 
 a dish with milk, the yolk of three eggs 
 and the white of one, some sugar, nut- 
 meg, a spoonful of almond water, and 
 half a glass of raisin wine ; put a nice 
 paste round the edge of the dish, and 
 bake it. 
 
 A layer of orange marmalade or rasp- 
 berry jam may be used instead of the 
 almond water or ratafia. 
 
 1844.-OATMEAL PUDDING. 
 
 'Take a pint of the best fine oatmeal, 
 pour a quart of boiling milk over it. and 
 let it soak all night ; the next day put it 
 in a basin just large enough to hold it, 
 add two eggs beaten, and a little salt, 
 cover it tight with a floured cloth, and 
 boil it an hour and a half. It may be 
 eaten hot, with cold butter and salt ; or 
 cold, sliced and toasted. 
 
 1345. GEOUND EICE PUDDING. 
 
 In a pint of new milk boil two dessert- 
 spoonfuls of ground rice, adding a small 
 piece of lemon-peel and a little cinna- 
 mon. Keep it stirring while boiling, and 
 let it boil ten minutes, then let it cool ; 
 when cold add sugar to taste, a couple of 
 well beaten eggs, and some nutmeg. 
 Line your dish with a puff paste, pour 
 in your rice, and bake a light brown. 
 
 1346. PUDDING "WITH FEUIT. 
 
 Fruit puddings are best made in a 
 
 basin, the basin to be buttered and lined 
 with the paste, and then filled with the 
 fruit, which cover with the paste; the 
 paste should be rolled round to the thick- 
 ness of half an inch, and when the fruit 
 is in, drawn to the centre, and squeezed, 
 and then tied up in a cloth kept on pur- 
 pose, and boiled in plenty of water ; when 
 done, which will be in time according to 
 the nature of the fruit you put in it ; 
 serve it either turned out of the basin or 
 not. The cover should be of the same 
 thickness as the sides. Sugar should be 
 added before being covered. 
 
 1347. COCOA-NUT PUDDING. 
 
 Kemove the shell of the cocoa-nut and 
 cut the brown skin away, cut the nut in 
 pieces and place it in cold water, remove 
 it and wipe it dry, grate about a quarter 
 of a pound of a large one, very fine, into 
 a plate. Place in a basin a quarter of a 
 pound of powdered white sugar, and three 
 ounces and a half of fresh butter, stir 
 them together till it becomes like cream ; 
 add to it a table- spoonful of brandy, 
 and about four drops of either essence of 
 vanille, or any other essence whose flavor 
 may be preferred. Place the white of 
 six eggs into a bowl, and beat them well 
 up ; then add gradually the butter and 
 sugar, which keep stirring at the same 
 time; add by degrees the cocoa-nut. 
 Cover a pie dish with puff paste, place 
 the mixture in it, and bake in a mode- 
 rate oven for about half an hour. Glaze 
 it with powdered sugar and powdered 
 cinnamon mixed. 
 
 1348. AN APPLE CHAELOTTE. 
 
 Pare and slice a quantity of apples ; 
 cut off the crust of a loaf, and cut slices 
 of bread and butter. Butter the inside 
 of a pie dish, and place bread and butter 
 all round ; then put in a layer of apples 
 sprinkled with lemon-peel, chopped very 
 fine, and a considerable quantity of good 
 
446 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 brown sugar. Then put on a layer of 
 bread and butter, and another of apples, 
 lemon-peel, and sugar, until the dish is 
 full, squeezing over the juice of lemons, 
 so that every part shall be equally fla- 
 vored. Cover up the dish with the 
 crusts of the bread and the peels of the 
 apples, to prevent it from browning or 
 burning : bake it one hour and a quarter ; 
 then take off the peels and the crust, 
 and turn it out of the dish. 
 
 1&49.-HEDGEHOG TO MAKE. 
 
 Blanch two pounds of sweet almonds, 
 pound them to a paste in a mortar, 
 moisten occasionally with canaiy and 
 orange-flower water ; beat the yolks of 
 twelve and the whites of five eggs with a 
 pint of cream and some powdered sugar, 
 put this with the almond paste and half 
 a pound of fresh butter in a saucepan, set 
 it over a stove, and keep it constantly 
 stirring till firm enough to be moulded 
 into the shape of a hedgehog ; stick it full 
 of blanched almonds cut lengthwise into 
 slips and placed in a dish ; beat up the 
 yolks of four eggs, put them to a pint of 
 cream, sweeten to your taste, stir them 
 over a slow fire till hot, then pour it 
 round the hedgehog, and let it stand till 
 cold, serve it. 
 
 A good calfs-foot jelly may be poured 
 round it if preferred. 
 
 1850. TKIFLES 
 
 Should be made early in the day on 
 which they are wanted; take a stale 
 sponge cake, cut it in slices of one inch 
 thick, and lay it on the bottom of the 
 dish ; lay on that a thin layer of any 
 kind of marmalade, jam, or jelly, have 
 some macaroons and ratafia cakes, and 
 lay on and cover the whole with some 
 sponge cakes. For a dish nine inches in 
 diameter, mix two glasses of sherry, one 
 of brandy, half a one of rum, and the 
 same of noyeau, and pour over, and let it 
 
 remain until it is well soaked, then pour 
 over about one inch thick of rich custard, 
 put a pint of cream into a bowl, with 
 some sifted sugar, a squeeze of a lemon, 
 and about a table-spoonful of the wine, 
 &c., you have put on the fake, whisk it 
 well up. I use a trifle-churn, which 
 saves some trouble ; I also use it for 
 all whipped cream ; and as the froth rises 
 remove it with a spoon upon a clean 
 sieve, where let it drain, then place it on 
 the custard until it is high and hand- 
 some. 
 
 I have occasionally, when being in a 
 hurry, and having no cream by me, pro- 
 ceeded as above, and made the whip with 
 the whites of eggs, and some very white 
 peach or egg-plum marmalade together, 
 until it makes firm froth or whip, which 
 put on the custard ; this may also be col- 
 ored a nice pink. 
 
 1351. BROWN BREAD PUDDING 
 
 May be made with half a pound of 
 stale brown bread coarsely grated, half 
 a pound of Valencia raisins cut in halves, 
 the same of chopped suet, sugar and nut- 
 meg. Mix with four eggs, two spoonfuls 
 of brandy, and two of cream ; boil it for 
 three or four hours in a cloth or basin 
 that exactly holds it. Serve with sweet 
 sauce. 
 
 Prunes, or French plums, instead of 
 raisins, make a fine pudding, either with 
 suet or bread. 
 
 1352. BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING. 
 
 Make a custard of one egg and half a 
 pint of milk, by boiling the milk with a 
 little lemon-peel and sugar, and beating 
 up the egg in it, putting it on the fire to 
 thicken ; butter slices of bread or French 
 roll, and soak them for an hour or two in 
 this mixture ; then lay them in a dish, 
 sprinkling currants between each layer, 
 with a little pounded sugar; and, if 
 meant to be very nice, put some sweet- 
 
SWEET PUDDINGS. 
 
 447 
 
 meats on the top ; but both the fruits and 
 the sweetmeats may be omitted if thought 
 proper. Pour over it another half a pint 
 of milk beaten up with two eggs. 
 
 1353. BOSTON CEACKEE PUDDINGS. 
 
 On three grated Boston crackers pour 
 a pint of boiling cream ; when cold add a 
 teaspoonful of cinnamon in finest powder, 
 the yolks of four and whites of, two eggs, 
 a spoonful of orange-flower water or ra- 
 taiia, two ounces of loaf-sugar, and half 
 a spoonful of flour, or almond flour, 
 rubbed smooth. 
 
 1354. VEKMICELLI. 
 
 BaTced. Simmer four ounces of vermi- 
 celli in a pint of new milk ten minutes ; 
 then put to it half a pint of cream, a tea- 
 spoonful of pounded cinnamon, four 
 ounces of butter warmed, the same of 
 white sugar, and the yolks of four eggs, 
 well beaten ; a little oil of almonds or a 
 couple of spoonfuls of ratafia will much 
 improve the flavor. Bake in a dish with- 
 out a lining. 
 
 Boiled. Stir very gently four ounces 
 of vermicelli into a pint of new milk over 
 the stove, until it be scalding hot, but 
 not more ; then pour it into a basin, and 
 add to it while hot one ounce of butter 
 and two of sugar. When the above is 
 nearly cold, mix in it, very gently, two 
 well beaten eggs, and immediately put it 
 into a basin that will exactly hold it. 
 Cover carefully with a floured cloth ; and 
 turning the basin the narrow end up- 
 wards, move it round for ten minutes, 
 and boil an hour. Serve with pudding- 
 sauce. 
 
 1355. MUFFIN AND CEUMPET PUDDING. 
 
 A very delicate pudding may be made 
 in a short time from a couple of muffins 
 and three crumpets, placed alternately 
 in layers, and either boiled or baked in 
 batter. If boiled, they should be placed 
 in an earthen jar, buttered on the inside, 
 
 filled with the batter, and covered on the 
 top. The muffins should be split open, 
 and currant jelly, slices of apple, or any 
 sort of fruit may be inserted. 
 
 Or : Half a dozen crumpets may be 
 boiled without any fruit, after being dip- 
 ped and covered in batter ; seasoned only 
 with sugar and a little nutmeg. 
 
 1356.-CHOCOLATE PUDDING. 
 
 Boil a pint of new milk ; dissolve in it 
 one ounce of chocolate ; sweeten it with 
 loaf-sugar ; add the yolks of eight and 
 the whites of four eggs well beaten; 
 strain and pour it into a plain mould but- 
 tered and papered ; steam it for a half an 
 hour ; let it settle for ten minutes, and 
 serve with the following sauce : Boil a 
 half a stick of vanilla in a pint of milk 
 till it is reduced one-half; strain it, 
 sweeten with loaf-sugar, and thicken 
 with arrowroot. 
 
 1357. SPONGE PUDDING. 
 Butter a mould thickly, and fill it 
 three parts full with small sponge-cakes, 
 soaked through with wine ; fill up the 
 mould with a rich cold custard. Butter 
 a paper, and put on the mould ; then tie 
 a floured cloth over it quite close, and 
 boil it an hour. Turn out the pudding 
 carefully, and pour some cold custard 
 over it. 
 
 Or: Bake it, and serve with wine- 
 sauce instead of custard. 
 
 1358. QUAKING PUDDING. 
 Scald a quart of cream ; when almost 
 cold put to it four eggs well beaten, one 
 spoonful and a half of flour, some nut- 
 meg and sugar ; tie it close in a buttered 
 cloth, boil it an hour, and turn it out 
 with care, lest it should crack. Serve 
 with wine-sauce. 
 
 1359.-BEANDT PUDDING. 
 
 Line a mould with jar raisins stoned, 
 
4AS 
 
 THE PEACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 or dried cherries, then with thin slices of 
 French roll, next to which put ratafias, 
 or .macaroons ; then again fruit, rolls, 
 and cakes in succession until the mould 
 be full, sprinkling in, at times, two wine- 
 glassfuls of brandy. Beat up four eggs, 
 yolks and whites ; put to a pint of milk 
 or cream, lightly sweetened, half a 
 nutmeg, and the rind of a half a lemon 
 finely grated. Let the liquid sink into 
 the solid part ; then flour a cloth, tie it 
 tight over, and boil one hour. Keep the 
 mould the right side up. Serve with 
 pudding-sauce. 
 
 I860. A BLACK-CAP PUDDING. 
 Rub three table-spoonfuls of flour, 
 smooth, by degrees into a pint of milk, 
 strain it, and simmer it over the fire until 
 it thickens ; stir in two ounces of butter ; 
 when cool, add the yolks of four eggs 
 beaten and strained, and a half a pound 
 of currants washed and picked, laid at 
 the bottom of the basin or mould previ- 
 ously well buttered. Put the batter into 
 the mould, cover it tight, and plunge it 
 into boiling water ; the currants down- 
 wards, that they may stick to the bottom 
 and thus form the black-cap. 
 
 1861. A SWEETMEAT PUDDING. 
 
 Cover a dish with thin puff-paste, and 
 lay in it freshly candied orange, lemon, 
 and citron, one ounce each, sliced thin. 
 Beat the yolks of eight and the whites 
 of two eggs, and mix with eight ounces 
 of butter warmed, but not oiled, and 
 eight ounces of white sugar. Pour the 
 mixture over the sweetmeats, and bake 
 one hour in a moderate oven. 
 
 1362. OEANGE PUDDING 
 
 May be made with six ripe oranges, 
 large, juicy, of the best kind, and 
 peeled ; the rinds to be beaten in a mor- 
 tar with half a pound each of fresh 
 butter and moist sugar, to which add the 
 yolks of six or eight eggs, and make the 
 
 whole into a batter with the juice of 
 only three of the oranges : the number of 
 eggs to be regulated by the size of the 
 fruit. Put the materials into a mould, 
 with a paste around but not over it, and 
 bake it for half an hour. 
 
 1363. EOLT-POLY PUDDING. 
 
 Make a rich pudding-paste with flour 
 and butter, without suet, but as light as 
 possible. Eoll it out thin, and cut it to 
 the breadth of eight or ten inches, mak- 
 ing it at the same time as long as you 
 please ; but half of a pound of flour 
 and five ounces of butter, wetted with 
 water, will probably be sufficient when 
 rolled out quite smooth; then spread 
 upon it a thick layer of raspberry, cur- 
 rant, or any other sort of jam, but leave 
 about an inch of all the edges bare. 
 That done, roll it round; the roll of 
 paste will secure the fruit, and the ends 
 must be twisted together for the same 
 purpose. Wrap it in a nicely floured 
 cloth, and boil it for two to three hours 
 according to size. 
 
 Take it up quite hot, and when served 
 cut it crosswise. It may appear homely, 
 but it is an excellent and much-admired 
 pudding. 
 
 1364. A YEEY FINE GEEMAN PUD- 
 DING. 
 
 Pour half a pint of boiling milk upon 
 one pound of bread-crumbs; beat up a 
 quarter of a pound of fresh butter to a 
 cream ; add to it the yolks of ten eggs 
 well beaten ; drain the milk from the 
 bread, and add the bread with a quarter 
 of a pound of pounded sugar and the 
 grated peel of a lemon ; whip the whites 
 of the ten eggs into a solid froth, and 
 add them the last thing : butter a cloth, 
 and put the pudding in, tying it loose, as 
 it will swell out a good deal ; plunge it 
 into boiling water; boil one hour. Some 
 persons add a quarter of a pound of jar 
 raisins slit and stoned. When turned 
 
SWEET PUDDINGS. 
 
 449 
 
 out stick the surface with sliced almonds, 
 and serve with the following sauce: 
 Take one pint of cream, one pint of sweet 
 raisin wine, four ounces of sugar rubbed 
 on the peel of a lemon, and let them 
 boil ; add the yolks of six eggs well 
 beaten, and the juice of the lemon; 
 mix them well ; make the sauce quite 
 hot, but do not let it boil again ; pour 
 some over the pudding, serving the re- 
 mainder in a sauce boat. 
 
 1365. POUDING A LA NESSELEODE. 
 (From an eminent Hotel-keeper.) 
 
 For a two-quart mould boil a sufficient 
 quantity of chestnuts to produce a quart 
 of meal after being pounded and rubbed 
 through a tammy. Boil three-quarters 
 of a pound of sugar in one pint of water, 
 with a stick of vanilla, until it is reduced 
 one-third. Boil one pint of cream, add 
 it to the chestnut-flour, then add the 
 syrup and twelve yolks of eggs beat up ; 
 set it over the fire, stir it until it nearly 
 boils. When cold, put the composition 
 into a freezing-pot; when it is frozen, 
 add half a pint of whipped cream, three 
 whites of eggs whipped up strong, a 
 handful of raisins stoned, chopped, and 
 soaked for a day in maraschino, as many 
 currants, one cup and a half of chopped 
 candied lemon-peel, and a glass of maras- 
 chino ; stir these ingredients all well to- 
 gether, freeze it again, and put it into 
 the mould. 
 
 1366. PAIN PEEDU. 
 
 Beat eggs with salt, sugar and orange- 
 flower water ; cut slices of bread, soak 
 in boiling milk, drain, and dip them in 
 the egg ; fry them in hot butter. Sift 
 sugar over them, and serve hot with 
 wine sauce. 
 
 13G7. A CHAETEEUSE OP APPLES AND 
 EICE. 
 
 Boil six ounces of rice with a stick 
 of cinnamon in milk until it is thick, 
 stirring in a spoonful of rose-water or 
 
 orange-flower water. Pare ten or twelve 
 apples golden pippins are the best 
 scoop out the core, and fill up the 
 orifice with raspberry-jam. Border a 
 deep dish with paste ; put in the ap- 
 ples, leaving a space between, and fill it 
 up with the rice. Brush the whole over 
 with the yolk of an egg, and sift sugar 
 thickly over it; form a pattern on the 
 top, with sweetmeats, and bake it for one 
 hour in a quick oven. 
 
 1368. MIEOTON OF APPLES. 
 
 Scald the apples, reduce them to a 
 pulp, and pile them high upon the dish 
 in which they are to be served ; boil one 
 teaspoonful of grated lemon-peel and six 
 or eight lumps of sugar in a teacupful of 
 water ; then add the yolks of three eggs 
 and the white of one, half an ounce of 
 butter, one spoonful of flour, and one of 
 brandy; mix the whole together over 
 the fire, and stir it quite smooth. Pour 
 it upon the apples, then whisk the whites 
 of the other two eggs to a froth ; put 
 them over the miroton just as it is going 
 into the oven, and sift some sugar over 
 it. The oven must be slow : it will take 
 ten or fifteen minutes to bake. 
 
 1369 TO MAKE BATTEE FOE FEUIT PUD- 
 DINGS. 
 
 Put half a pound of flour and a salt- 
 spoonful of salt into a pan, add very 
 gently half a pint of milk; if mixed 
 carelessly the flour will remain in lumps j 
 beat up the whites of four eggs, strain 
 them to the batter, and beat it well with 
 a wooden spoon. The whites should be 
 beaten separately to a solid froth, and 
 not added till just before the batter is 
 used. For fruit the batter should be 
 rather thicker than when plain, to pre- 
 vent the fruit from sinking to the bot- 
 tom of the dish or basin, as it is equally 
 good baked or boiled. It must be brought 
 to a proper consistency by adding milk. 
 
450 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 1STO.-OXFOKD DUMPLINGS. 
 
 Of grated bread two ounces, currants 
 and shred suet four ounces each, two 
 large spoonfuls of flour, a great deal of 
 grated lemon-peel, a bit of sugar, and a 
 little pimento in fine powder. Mix with 
 two eggs and a little milk into five dump- 
 lings, and fry of a fine yellow brown. 
 Made with flour instead of bread, but 
 half the quantity, they are excellent. 
 Serve with sweet sauce. 
 
 18TL GLOUCESTEE PUDDINGS. 
 
 Weigh three eggs in the shell; take 
 their weight in flour and butter ; take 
 twelve bitter almonds and five ounces 
 of pounded sugar ; beat all together for 
 half an hour, and put the mixture in 
 pudding-cups, filling the cups only half 
 full. Bake them half an hour. 
 
 1372. YEAST DUMPLINGS. 
 
 Take some yeast and make a very light 
 dough the same as for bread, using milk 
 ho"-. >er instead of water; add salt, put 
 '.. oy the fire covered in a pan for half an 
 hour or more, to rise; after this is done 
 roll up the dough into small balls and 
 boil them for ten minutes, then take 
 them out and serve directly with wine- 
 sauce over them. To know when they 
 are done stick a fork into one, and if it 
 comes out clean they will do. 
 
 A good method of eating them is by 
 dividing them from the top with two 
 forks, as they get heavy by their own 
 steam, and eat them directly with meat, 
 or sugar and butter, or salt. 
 
 ITALIAN PASTES. 
 
 BESIDES macaroni, there are vermicelli, 
 semolina, a smaller sort called macaron- 
 cini, and various other pastes of the 
 same nature, all made in Italy from the 
 same kind of grain ; nothing, therefore, 
 
 can be more simply nutritive, nor, when 
 well boiled, more easy of digestion. 
 There are also two sorts of macaroni 
 the pipe and the tape the one hollow, 
 and the other flat, but both made of the 
 same material ; the vermicelli being that 
 most generally used in soup : each being 
 severally used in various ways, according 
 to the following receipts : 
 
 1373.-MACAEONI. 
 
 Some cooks are very fond of boiling it 
 in milk, and even of laying it in milk for 
 an hour or two to swell and become ten- 
 der, but boiling water is as good. A 
 quarter of a pound will be sufficient for 
 half a dozen people, and will not require 
 more than twenty to twenty-five minutes 
 to become tender, if boiled in water, but 
 a few minutes longer if boiled in broth. 
 Drain it when tender and lay it in a dish. 
 Half the quantity of cheese should be finely 
 grated and sprinkled over it in layers, with 
 butter, to mix it thoroughly. It should 
 be served quite hot. It is sometimes 
 eaten with mustard, and, if to be made 
 very savory, beef gravy may be used with 
 a truffle stewed in it. 
 
 Nothing but Parmesan cheese will give 
 it the true flavor. 
 
 To "brown Macaroni is the common 
 practice of cooks ; though, in fact, the 
 browning, while giving a pretty appear- 
 ance to the macaroni, not only hardens 
 the top of the cheese into a crust, but 
 often gives a taste of rancidity. It can 
 be done with crumbs of bread, thus : 
 
 Wash the macaroni, then simmer it in 
 a little broth, with a little pounded mace 
 and salt. When quite tender, take it out 
 of the liquor, lay it in a dish, grate a 
 good deal of cheese over, then cover that 
 with bread grated fine. Warm some 
 butter without oiling, and pour it from a 
 boat through a little earthen colander all 
 over the crumbs, then put the dish in a 
 Dutch oven to brown the bread of a fine 
 color. 
 
ITALIAN PASTES. 
 
 Cold Macaroni, If already dressed, 
 may be warmed in any kind of broth, 
 letting it simmer gently upon a slow fire, 
 with the yolks of two eggs to thicken ; 
 after which it should be put into the 
 oyen in a mould covered with crumbs of 
 bread ; or, if undressed, it may be made 
 by leaving it overnight in broth, and then 
 proceeding with it as above. 
 
 1374 TIMBALE DE MACAEONL 
 
 Soften the macaroni by boiling it fast 
 until it will cut easily without breaking, 
 but do not let it be too soft ; then cut it 
 into pieces half an inch long ; butter a 
 mould, stick the macaroni quite close to- 
 gether all over it, so as to look like a 
 honeycomb ; then spread a thin layer of 
 quenelle farce over the macaroni ; fill up 
 the mould with a mince of stewed ox 
 palates cut into small pieces, and small 
 button mushrooms, either pickled or 
 fresh, moistened well with white sauce : 
 close the mould, and boil it for three- 
 quarters of an hour; turn it out very 
 carefully, and serve it with thick white 
 sauce and mushrooms. 
 
 1375. PlT DE MACABONL 
 
 Stew some macaroni in butter and 
 water, or broth, strain it, cut it into 
 pieces, and lay it at the bottom of the 
 dish, adding ham balls, made of ham, 
 pounded in a mortar, and blended with 
 butter ; then have ready any kind of game, 
 boned and filleted, cock's-combs or ox- 
 palates, previously blanched and stewed, 
 sweetbread cut into dice, and mushrooms, 
 all stewed in good rich sauce ; place a 
 layer upon the macaroni, then another 
 layer of meat, and, until the pie is filled, 
 add to it equal quantities of cream and 
 gravy, cover it with a paste, and bake it, 
 or omit the paste, and stew it before the 
 fire in a Dutch oven. The macaroni 
 may be mixed with grated cheese. 
 
 13T6.-VEEMICELLI 
 
 Is of the same substance as macaroni, 
 but made much smaller, and frequently 
 put into meat soups as giving them ad- 
 ditional richness ; but it is ofteti too spar- 
 ingly used. To be well made the soup 
 should be thickened with it, and for that 
 purpose it is preferable to macaroni. 
 
 Semolina is of the same material, but 
 made into small grains, which more easily 
 thicken the soup in which it is mixed ; 
 it can also be made into an excellent 
 pudding with eggs and milk, using it in- 
 stead of flour. 
 
 It should be observed, as a general 
 rule, that in using any of the Italian 
 pastes unless they should be sweetened 
 Parmesan cheese should always form 
 part of the dish, in the proportion of one- 
 half the quantity to that of the paste. 
 
 1377. POLENTA. 
 
 Is, in Italy, made from the flour of In- 
 dian corn, but in England generally of 
 semolina, thus : Put a little salt and 
 four ounces of semolina into a quart of 
 milk when it is beginning to boil, and 
 let it continue to simmer for about ten 
 minutes, stirring it occasionally to guard 
 it from burning. When well thickened 
 pour it into a dish to cool, and when 
 quite cold it will be very solid : then cut 
 it into slices of less than an inch thick, 
 upon which put a large grating of good 
 Parmesan cheese, for no other kind will 
 answer the purpose ; nor should any 
 spices be used, except a little mace j nor 
 even that, unless it be made (as sometimes 
 done) with veal broth. Clarify a few 
 ounces of fresh butter though in Italy 
 oil is always used put a layer of the 
 paste, powdered with the Parme&'an, mix- 
 ed with a little of the butter; bake it for 
 half an hour in a moderately heated oven, 
 and serve it up quite hot, with a separate 
 plate of the grated cheese. 
 
452 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 RICE. 
 
 For savory dishes rice should be stew- 
 ed in good gravy, seasoned with mace, 
 cayenne, and salt, with the addition of 
 fried onions, shalot, garlic, and pot-herbs, 
 strained and used at pleasure. 
 
 For sweet disJies. Boil it with lemon- 
 peel, cinnamon, or bay-leaves, and, when 
 done to a proper consistency, add powder- 
 ed sugar and cold butter, stirring it all 
 the time till melted ; then pour in a little 
 cream, and use it either as a covering for 
 stewed fruits, or, if made thick enough, 
 it may be placed round the sides of a 
 dish, leaving the middle hollow for the 
 sweets. The same plan may be adopted 
 for all sorts of meat, poultry, fish, fruit, 
 and sweetmeats. The sugar should not 
 be added until the rice is done, as it has 
 a tendency to harden the grains. 
 
 Plain rice pudding can be made with 
 brown sugar, and milk baked slowly a 
 long time ; a richer one by boiling a tea- 
 cupful of rice, and when boiled, adding 
 milk and fine sugar, with four beaten 
 eggs, and baking it. 
 
 1378. EICE FEITTEES. 
 
 Pare very thin the rind of a lemon, 
 and boil it in milk, with sugar enough to 
 sweeten it, and a cup of rice. When the 
 rice is quite soft take out the lemon peel, 
 beat up the rice with a glass of brandy ; 
 shape it into fritters ; brush them with 
 yolks of eggs, cover them with bread- 
 crumbs, fry them in lard, dust them with 
 fine sugar, and glaze with salamander. 
 
 18T9. TO BOIL EICE. 
 
 Very few persons know how to boil 
 rice properly. It is usually so boiled as 
 to become a heavy dough, so tenacious 
 and solid as to be almost impenetrable 
 to the digestive fluids secreted by the 
 mouth and the stomach, which are neces- 
 
 sary to dissolve it, and to effect its diges- 
 tion and distribution, as innocent nourish- 
 ing food. It should be so cooked that 
 the grains shall remain separate and dis- 
 tinct, but not hard, and the whole ^e in 
 some degree loose and porous. "The 
 Southern method is as follows : 
 
 Pick over the rice carefully, rinse it 
 well in cold water till it is faithfully 
 cleansed ; drain off the water, then put 
 it in a pot of boiling water, with a little 
 salt. Allow as much as a quart of water 
 to a teacup of rice, as it absorbs the 
 water very much while boiling. Boil it 
 seventeen minutes ; then turn the water 
 off very close ; set the pot over a few 
 coals, and let it steam fifteen minutes 
 with the lid of the pot off. The beauty 
 of the rice boiled in this way, is, that 
 each kernel stands out by itself, while it 
 is quite tender. 
 
 Eice Croquettes. 
 
 1880. EICE CEOQUETTES. 
 
 Take half a pound of boiled rice, mix 
 with it two table-spoonfuls of grated 
 cheese, and a little nutmeg and mace ; 
 then take a little butter, six table-spoon- 
 fuls of cold chicken breast, minced, six 
 bearded oysters, a little parsley and 
 lemon peel, and mixed together with rich 
 milk or cream. Roll out a table-spoon 
 heaping full of the rice, and put into it 
 as much as it will hold of the mixture, 
 folding the edges and inclosing it ; brush 
 the balls over with yolk of raw egg, roll 
 them in cracker crumbs, and fry them 
 light brown in boiling lard. Serve them 
 hot when drained. 
 
RICE. 
 
 453 
 
 1881. CASSEKOLE DE EIZ AUX (EUFS. 
 
 * Clean, wash, and stew the rice ; work 
 it well with stock and an egg beaten, as 
 the rice should be firm and well blended ; 
 then make it into a wall, lining the inside 
 of a mould of the requisite height : bake 
 the casserole. Take the white portion 
 of cold fowl, cold veal, or sweetbreads ; 
 mince them finely, add some thick white 
 sauce and mushrooms, fill the casserole, 
 and cover the top with poached eggs ; 
 cover them with glaze, and serve it up 
 very hot.' 
 
 1882. EICE, GATEAU OF. 
 
 Boil a quart of cream, and add to it 
 half a pound of powdered sugar, and 
 three-quarters of a pound of rice ; when 
 the latter is quite soft dissolve in it a 
 quarter of a pound of butter, and then 
 put in the grated rind of a lemon ; let it 
 cool. When quite cold stir in four 
 yolks and four whole eggs ; more if the 
 rice be very thick ; butter a mould 
 lightly, put the rice into it, place the 
 mould in hot ashes so that it may be 
 completely enveloped in and covered 
 with them ; in half an hour the gateau 
 will be done enough, then turn it out 
 and serve. If you wish you can make a 
 souffle by whipping the whites of six 
 eggs like other souffles ; in this case it 
 should be served in a silver dish. In 
 putting the preparation into the mould 
 be careful not to fill it, as the rice 
 would swell and run over. 
 
 1383. MUSH. 
 
 Stir Indian meal into boiling water, 
 adding^ a little salt and putting in the 
 meal by degrees, while stirring with a 
 mush stick. Let it boil thick, then sim- 
 mer slowly till sufficiently cooked ; three 
 or four hours' simmering will not be too 
 long. 
 
 1884 HOMINY. 
 
 Wash the Kominy clean, and boil it 
 29 
 
 with sufficient- water to cover it. It 
 should boil from four to five hours over 
 a very slow fire. Eat it with butter and 
 molasses, or with sugar and milk. It is 
 considered extremely wholesome food, 
 especially for children and delicate per- 
 sons. 
 
 1885. CEOQUETTES OP EICE WITH APEI- 
 COT MAEMALADE. 
 
 Prepare the rice plain for a croquette, 
 take the handle of a wooden spoon, make 
 a hole in the croquette, which fill with 
 marmalade of apricots. Then close it up 
 with some of the rice, put crumbs of 
 bread as you do in all other croquettes, 
 and fry in the same manner. You may 
 put in pieces of apple or other fruit. 
 
 1386. SOUFFLE OF APPLES WITH A EICE 
 BOEDEE. 
 
 Prepare your rice as for a croquette. 
 Keep it of a strong solid substance; 
 dress it up all round a dish, the same 
 height as a raised crust, that is to say, 
 three inches high. Give a pleasing 
 shape to the rice, and let it be levelled 
 smooth ; have some marmalade of apple 
 ready, made very thick ; mix with it six 
 yolks of eggs and a small bit of butter ; 
 warm it on the stove : tnen have eight 
 whites of eggs well whipped, as for bis- 
 cuits ; mix theni lightly with the apples, 
 and put the whole into the middle of the 
 rice j put this into the oven, which must 
 not be too hot. When the souffl6 is 
 raised sufficiently, send it up, as it would 
 soon lower. If you wish to make a 
 kind of pap, take a spoonful of flour, a 
 pint of milk, a little salt, lemon, and 
 sugar ; let the whole boil well and thick, 
 then mix it with the apples and the 
 yolks of six eggs ; the whites are to be 
 well beaten, and poured in afterwards ; 
 next bake the souffle in the oven. This 
 method is safer than the former, and is 
 not deficient in delicacy. 
 
454 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 CHEESE. 
 
 Cheese takes an important place at 
 the table ; not alone, in its simple place 
 at the close of the dinner, but that it 
 forms the foundation of many excellent 
 dishes. The selection of good cheese re- 
 quires both judgment and experience ; a 
 delicate palate and a keen sense of smell 
 are two essential requisites, while the 
 eye is an assistant to point out those de- 
 fects independent of taste or smell. A 
 prime cheese is readily told by a connois- 
 seur by the color and texture, without 
 consulting either nose or palate. 
 
 1387. TO MAKE CHEESE. 
 
 Put rennet into warm fresh milk, 
 soaked in a little warm water, and add 
 salt. Half a pint of rennjet water will 
 turn three pails of milk. Gut the curd 
 into squares; afterwards break it up 
 and let it stand a few minutes ; pour off 
 the whey, tie up the curd, and hang it 
 up to drain dry. Then chop it up in a 
 cheese tray, put it in a cloth in the cheese 
 mould, and press it in the screw press 
 half an hour. Then cut it up fine, salt 
 it, and press again for twenty-four hours, 
 wetting the cloth previously. Take it 
 out and turn, and put it in again in a 
 clean wet cloth, and renew this process 
 for three or four days. % Then rub the 
 cheese with butter or lard, and set it 
 away in a dry place or in a wire safe. 
 Wipe and grease it till the rind is firm, 
 and turn it every day for several weeks. 
 
 1383. SMEARCASE OR COTTAGE CHEESE. 
 
 Set by the fire some milk beginning to 
 sour, till a curd is formed : then pour off 
 the whey, tie the curd in a cloth, and 
 hang it up to drain, not squeezing it 
 Drain it twelve hours. Then work it in 
 a bowl with cream, salting to taste, anc 
 add a little fresh butter, till it is soft an 
 smooth. 
 
 13S9. SAGE CHEESE. 
 
 Pound fresh sage leaves in a mortar 
 o obtain the juice, and mix it with the 
 milk while warm, after the rennet is put 
 n. Spinach juice is an improvement. 
 
 1390. CREAM CHEESE. 
 
 Take a small pan of fresh morning's 
 milk, warm from the cow is best, and 
 mix with the cream skimmed from an 
 qual quantity of the last night's milk. 
 Warm it to blood heat, pour into it a 
 up of water, in which a piece bf rennet 
 he size of two fingers has soaked all 
 night, and put it in a warm place till the 
 curd is formed. Cut the curd into 
 squares, lay over it a thin straining cloth, 
 )ress it down, and dip out all the whey 
 ;hat rises through it. Then put the curd 
 n the cloth, squeeze it dry, then crumble 
 and salt it to taste. Wash the straining 
 cloth, lay it in the cheese hoop (a bot- 
 tomless vessel the size of a dinner plate, 
 perforated with small holes,) put the 
 crumbled curd into the cloth, and fold 
 the rest of the cloth over it. Put on the 
 cover, and set a weight on it. In six 
 hours turn the cheese, and let stand six 
 hours longer. Then take it out ? rub it 
 with fresh butter, and set it in a dark, 
 dry place. Turn it every day for four or 
 five days, when it is fit for use ; and it 
 must be eaten immediately when cut. It 
 will keep but a few days, even in cold 
 weather. 
 
 1891. CHEESE PUFFS. 
 
 Take half a pint of cheese curd 
 strained from the whey, with a spoonful 
 and a half of flour, three eggs, leave out 
 the whites of two, a spoonful of orange 
 flower water, a quarter of a nutmeg, and 
 sugar to make it sweet ; beat it in a mor- 
 tar; lay a little of this paste in very 
 small round cakes on a tin plate ; if the 
 oven is hot, they will take a quarter of 
 an hour to bake them ; serve them with 
 pudding sauce. 
 
455 
 
 1892. EGGS AND CHEESE 
 
 Are mixed together in various ways 
 by French cooks, under the names of 
 fondus or fondeaux, ramequins, and other 
 titles, for the purpose of preparing en- 
 tremets, or side-dishes, for elegant tables. 
 
 Gruyere and Parmesan are the most 
 proper sorts to be thus used, but any 
 dry cheese, of good flavor, may be em- 
 ployed. 
 
 For Fondeau. Slice a stale penny 
 roll ; pour over it three gills of boiling 
 milk ; when soaked, beat it well, and mix 
 with it half a pound of cheese, finely 
 grated, with the yolks of four eggs well 
 whisked. All this may be prepared 
 when most convenient ; immediately be- 
 fore it is wanted beat the whites of the 
 four eggs into a solid -froth, and add 
 them; pour the whole into the paper 
 forms, and bake them to your taste. 
 
 A Vltalienne. Mix half a pint of 
 cream with a little flour and a little salt ; 
 keep stirring it over the fire until it is as 
 thick as melted butter ; then add about 
 half a pound of Parmesan cheese finely 
 grated. Mix it all well together until it 
 is half cold ; then take four eggs, sepa- 
 rate the yolks from the whites, put the 
 former to the cheese, and beat it well to- 
 gether. Then beat the whites to a solid 
 froth, and add them to the rest ; pour 
 the mixture into an ornamented mould 
 or a deep dish lined with paper, cut in a 
 fringe at the top, and only half filled, as 
 it will rise very high. The oven must 
 be very hot, in order to cause the rising, 
 and the dish must be served immediately, 
 or it will fall ; to prevent which, let the 
 cover be of metal, strongly heated: 
 twenty minutes ought to bake it. 
 
 Fondeaux of a small size may be made 
 in either of the above modes, and put 
 into little paper moulds of any fancied 
 form, but only half filled. 
 
 1893. KAMEQUINS. 
 
 Take two eggs, two spoonfuls of flour, 
 two ounces of melted butter, and two of 
 grated cheese ; mix all well together, and 
 bake it in moulds or tart-pans for a 
 quarter of an hour. 
 
 A la Parisienne. Boil half a pint of 
 milk,, and half the quantity of cream ; 
 melt one ounce of butter and a little salt ; 
 mix in a spoonful of flour, and stir it 
 over the fire for five minutes ; pour in 
 the milk and cream by. degrees, and work 
 it smooth, taking care that it is thorough- 
 ly cooked. Then take it off, and add 
 half a pound of grated cheese, some 
 coarse ground pepper, and an atom of 
 nutmeg, with a v.ery little powdered 
 sugar, the yolks of efght eggs, and the 
 whites of two, well beaten ; when per- 
 fectly mixed, add the whites of six eggs 
 beaten to a froth. The batter should be 
 as thick as cream. Make little paper 
 trays, fill them three parts full, and bake 
 them in a very slow oven eighteen min- 
 utes. 
 
 Fried Ramequins. Grate half a pound 
 of cheese, and melt two ounces of but- 
 ter j when the latter is getting cool, mix 
 it with the cheese and the whites of 
 three eggs well beaten. Lay buttered 
 papers on a frying-pan, put slices of 
 bread upon it, and lay the cheese on the 
 top; set it on the fire for about five 
 minutes, then take it oft, and brown it 
 with a salamander. 
 
 1894 CHEESE SOUFFLE, OK DIABLOTINS. 
 
 Put a gill of milk in a stewpan, with 
 two ounces of butter ; when boiling, stir 
 in two spoonfuls of flour, keep stirring 
 over the fire until the bottom of the 
 stewpan is dry, then add four eggs by 
 degrees, and a pound of grated cheese ; 
 mix well in, season with pepper, salt, 
 and cayenne, rather highly, mould the 
 paste into little balls with the forefinger 
 
456 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 against the side of the stewpan contain- 
 ing it, drop them into hot lard ; fry of a 
 nice light brown, dress in pyramid upon 
 a napkin, and serve very hot j a quarter 
 of that quantity may of course be made. 
 This is an excellent dish. 
 
 1395. STEWED CHEESE. 
 
 Grate two ounces of cheese; put it 
 into a basin ; mix with it a small teacup- 
 ful of cream and an egg beaten and 
 strained. Put into a small saucepan one 
 ounce or half an ounce of butter, accord- 
 ing to the richness of the cheese ; let it 
 melt, then stir in the other ingredients, 
 and let it boil until well mixed. Serve it 
 hot either browned or plain. 
 
 With Ale. Cut the cheese into slices, 
 pare off the rind, and put it into a dish 
 over a lamp ; then pour on as much ale 
 as will cover it, and let it stew until the 
 cheese is dissolved. This is a Welsh 
 method, and a very good one. The 
 cheese may be spread with mustard. 
 
 A very delicious sort of paste may 
 also be made of any of the rich cheeses, 
 stewed with cream and yolk of egg, 
 either seasoned savorily or sweetened ; 
 and eaten hot or cold. 
 
 1396. WELSH BABBIT. 
 
 Put mellow cheese into a saucepan 
 with about one ounce of butter and a 
 very little ale ; stir it over the fire until 
 the cheese is quite dissolved ; then take 
 it off, add an egg well beaten, dish it, and 
 brown it before the fire. 
 
 Cheese-Toaster. 
 
 Or, Rasp some toasting cheese with a 
 bit of butter, into a cheese-toaster, and, 
 
 when the cheese dissolves before the fire, 
 put it upon thin slices of buttered toast, 
 of which the crust has been cut off. 
 Serve it very hot, or the cheese will be- 
 come tough ; and eat it with pepper, salt, 
 and mustard. 
 
 189T.-A CHEESE PUDDING. 
 
 Grate three ounces of cheese and five 
 of bread ; and having warmed one ounce 
 of butter in a quarter of a pint of new 
 milk, mix it with the alcove ; add two 
 well-beaten eggs and a little salt. Bake 
 it half an hour. 
 
 This is a nice way of finishing up a 
 cheese when little but the rind is left. 
 
 When mites have taken possession of 
 a cheese, and this is considered objec- 
 tionable, the following receipt will have 
 the effect of destroying them without 
 injury to the cheese. Wipe the cheese, 
 put it into a pot in which mutton Has 
 been cooked whilst the water is yet hot, 
 make the water boil a few seconds, take 
 out the cheese, wipe it immediately, dry 
 it, and then put it away in a dry place 
 until required for use. 
 
 1898. POTTED CHEESE. 
 
 Scrape and pound cheese, with a piece 
 of butter, cayenne pepper, a few grains 
 of pounded mace, a teaspoonful of sifted 
 sugar, a glass of white wine, and a little 
 salt ; press it into your potting-jar for 
 shape. It may be potted with brandy. 
 
 1899. CHEESE CBEAM, A PLAIN FAMILY 
 WAT. 
 
 Put three half pints of milk to one- 
 half pint of cream, warm, or according to 
 the same proportions, and put in a little 
 rennet ; keep it covered in a warm place 
 till it is curdled ; have a mould with 
 holes, either of china or any other, put 
 the curds into it to drain about an hour, 
 serve with good plain cream and pound- 
 ed sugar over it. 
 
PANCAKES. 
 
 457 
 
 1400.-PANCAKE8. 
 
 The common sort are composed of a 
 light batter, made of eggs, flour, and 
 milk, fried in hot dripping or lard, only 
 half of the whites of the eggs being 
 generally used ; but salt, or nutmeg, and 
 ginger, may be added, and sugar and 
 lemon should be served to eat with them. 
 Or, when eggs are scarce, make the bat- 
 ter with flour and small beer, ginger, &c. ; 
 or clean snow, with flour, and a very 
 little milk, will serve as well as eggs. If 
 the family be large, beat eight yolks and 
 four whites of eggs, strain them into a 
 pint of milk, put a grated nutmeg, and 
 sugar to your taste : set three ounces of 
 fresh butter on the fire, stir it, and as it 
 warms pour it to the milk, which should 
 be warm when the eggs are put to it ; 
 then mix smooth almost a half a pound 
 of flour. Fry the pancakes very thin ; 
 the first with a bit of butter, but not the 
 others. Serve several on one another, 
 but at two or three different times, " hot 
 and hot." 
 
 A finer kind are fried without but- 
 .ter or lard, as thus: Beat six fresh 
 eggs extremely well ; mix, when strained, 
 with a pint of cream, four ounces of 
 sugar, a glass of good French brandy, a 
 half a nutmeg grated, the grated rind of 
 a whole lemon, and as much flour as will 
 make it almost as thick as ordinary pan- 
 cake-batter, but not quite. Heat the 
 frying-pan tolerably hot, wipe it with a 
 clean cloth ; then pour in the batter to 
 make thin pancakes. 
 
 1401. APPLE PANCAKES. 
 Mix two large spoonfuls of flour in a 
 cup of milk or wine ; when smooth add 
 eight eggs, some pounded cinnamon, 
 grated lemon-peel, a handful of currantsj 
 and six or eight apples peeled and chop- 
 ped : mix it all well together j melt some 
 butter in a frying-pan ; when hot pour 
 the whole mass in, arid fry it on both 
 
 sides : serve it stewed with pounded cin- 
 namon and sugar very hot. 
 
 1402. NEW ENGLAND PANCAKES. 
 
 Mix a pint of cream, five spoonfuls of 
 fine flour, seven yolks and four whites 
 of- eggs, and a very little salt ; fry them 
 very thin in fresh butter, and between 
 each strew sugar and cinnamon. Send up 
 six or eight at once. 
 
 Waffle Furnace. 
 
 1403. DUTCH PANCAKES. 
 
 Mix one pound of flour with a half a 
 pound of sugar and a table-spoonful of 
 cinnamon in powder ; make it into a paste 
 with ten eggs and two glasses of white 
 wine, or one each of wine and brandy ; 
 when well mixed, roll it out and fry like 
 other pancakes. 
 
 1404. CEEPES. 
 
 Make a batter with flour, milk and 
 eggs, adding brandy and orange-flower 
 water. In two or three hours after- 
 wards, melt a piece of butter or lard, the 
 size of a walnut, in a frying-pan, pour in 
 some batter, and shake it over the pan. 
 When done on one side, turn it over; 
 when the other side is done, dish it and 
 keep hot till the others are done } sifting 
 sugar oyer each. 
 
 1405. EICE PANCAKES. 
 To half a pound of rice put two-thirds 
 of a pint of water, boil it to a jelly ; 
 when cold, add to it eight eggs, a pint of 
 cream, a little salt and nutmeg, and half 
 a pound of butter melted; mix well, 
 adding the butter last, and working it 
 
458 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 only so much as will make the batter 
 sufficiently thick. Fry them in lard, 
 but employ as little as it is possible to 
 fry them with. 
 
 1406.-FKITTEKS, 
 
 Although a species of pancakes, Are 
 yet not so wholly composed of eggs, and 
 may be made of almost any substance 
 fried in butter. Make them of any 
 of the batters directed for pancakes, 
 dropping a small quantity into the pan, 
 or beat six eggs very lightly and quickly 
 in a quart of milk, adding gradually three 
 quarters of a pound of potato-flour. 
 Have ready a large quantity of lard, and 
 when boiling hot put in the batter, allow- 
 ing for each fritter half a teacupful. They 
 do not require turning, and will be done 
 in a few minutes, but must be sent to 
 table immediately, or they will become 
 heavy ; one pound and a half of lard will 
 be required for the above quantity of 
 fritters ; they may be eaten plainly pow- 
 dered with loaf sugar or sugar and cinna- 
 mon, and should be served on a folded 
 napkin in the dish. Any sort of sweet- 
 meat or ripe fruit may be made into 
 fritters. 
 
 For plain Fritters. Grate the crumb 
 of a penny loaJ^ put it into a pint of milk 
 over the fire, and beat it very smooth ; 
 when cold, add the yolks of five eggs 
 three ounces of sifted sugar, and half 
 a nutmeg. Fry them in hog's lard, and 
 serve pudding-sauce in a boat. 
 
 Apple-Fritters. Take the yolks of six 
 eggs, and the whites of three; beat them 
 well, and strain them ; then add a pint 
 of milk, a little salt, half a nutmeg grat- 
 ed, and a glass of brandy. Make it into 
 thick batter with fine flour; slice the 
 apples in rounds, cut out the core, dust 
 them with fine sugar, and let them so re- 
 main for two hours ; then dip each slice 
 in batter, and fry them in plenty of boil- 
 ing lard over a quick fire. They require 
 
 lard sufficient to swim in. Glaze with 
 sugar. 
 
 Oreme Frite aux Amandes. Boil one 
 pint of milk with two bay-leaves, a little 
 emon-peel, and a small piece of cinnamon. 
 When the flavor is extracted, strain it ; 
 add two table-spoonfuls of arrowroot, 
 and sugar to palate ; stir it well over the 
 ire, and add the yolks of four eggs, two 
 ounces of chopped almonds, and a wine- 
 ;lass of cream. Cook the whole over the 
 fire for about four minutes, stirring it all 
 the time ; then pour it on a tin which has 
 been well buttered, spread it about half 
 an inch thick, put it into the oven for ten 
 minutes, let it get thoroughly cool, cut 
 out with a round cutter, dip into fine 
 bread-crumbs, then into egg beat up very 
 thin, and again into crumbs ; fry in hot 
 lard : dust over with sugar, and send to 
 table. 
 
 French Fritters. Mix two eggs, well 
 beaten and strained, with as much new 
 milk and flour as shall make one thick 
 pancake, which fry as pale as you can. 
 Pound it in a mortar quite smooth, and 
 add the yolks of four and whites of two 
 eggs, one large spoonful of orange-flower 
 water or cinnamon-water, one ounce of 
 blanched almonds beaten to a paste, two 
 ounces of white sugar, and one-quarter 
 of a small nutmeg. Pound it all till it 
 becomes smooth batter. Have ready a 
 large stewpan half full of fine lard quite 
 hot, and drop the batter into it, the size 
 of large nuts, until the surface be filled : 
 as they brown, turn them : they will be 
 very large : when done, remove them on 
 clean paper, in a dish before the fire, and 
 do the remainder. Berve as quickly as 
 possible. They are excellent. 
 
 Potato Fritters. Boil two large po- 
 tatoes, scrape them fine, beat four yolks 
 and three whites of eggs, and add one 
 large spoonful of cream, another of sweet 
 wine, a squeeze of lemon, and a little nut- 
 meg. Beat this batter half an hour at 
 
BEIGNETS. EGGS. 
 
 459 
 
 least. It will be extremely light. Put 
 a good quantity of fine lard in astewpan, 
 and drop a spoonful of the batter at a 
 time into it. Fry them, and serve in a 
 sauce boat, a glass of white wine, the 
 juice of a lemon, one dessert-spoonful of 
 peach leaf or almond water, and some 
 white sugar, warmed together. 
 
 Curd Fritters. Rub down in a mor- 
 tar a quart of dried curd, with the yolks 
 of eight and whites of four well beaten 
 eggs, two ounces of sifted sugar, half a 
 nutmeg, and half a spoonful of flour. Drop 
 the batter into a frying pan, with a little 
 butter or fine lard. 
 
 Orange and Sweetmeat Fritters. 
 two oranges, then cut them in slices 
 across, and take out all the seeds, dip the 
 slices of orange in batter, as for apple- 
 fritters, and fry them. Serve with pow- 
 dered sugar upon each fritter. 
 
 1407. BEIGNETS. 
 
 Mix and work well together half a 
 pound of flour, and two ounces of butter, 
 or three table-spoonfuls of sweet oil, and 
 * make it into a batter with some warm 
 water ; then mix into the batter a couple 
 of raw eggs, keeping the yolk of one for 
 browning. The materials may thus be 
 made of any degree of consistence, so as 
 to act as thick batter, or as thin paste by 
 the addition of a little flour j and being 
 made into small balls, are spread with the 
 remaining yolk of egg, powdered usually 
 with sugar, and fried in hot lard ; and, 
 when ready to be served, put them for a 
 moment on a hair sieve to dram off the 
 fat, 
 
 If made solely with paste, without 
 mince of any kind, they should have an- 
 other egg, and the batter be more con- 
 tinually beaten, so as to render the 
 beignets light ; then, when prepared for 
 dressing, take a spoonful of the batter 
 formed into a ball, and drop it into the 
 
 boiling lard. A large dishful will be fried 
 in six or seven minutes. 
 
 VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING 
 EGGS. 
 
 Unless an egg is perfectly fresh it is 
 unfit for any purpose. You may try the 
 freshness of eggs by putting them in a 
 pan of cold water. Those that sink the 
 soonest are the freshest. Eggs may be 
 preserved a short time by putting them 
 in a jar of salt or lime-water with the 
 small ends downwards. The salt should 
 not afterwards be used. They may be 
 preserved several months by greasing 
 them all over with melted mutton suet, 
 and wedging them close together in a 
 box of bran. The small ends always 
 downwards. 
 
 There are, of course, several sorts of 
 eggs, according to the species of poultry 
 which produce them. The turkey egg is 
 the largest and the most delicate, after 
 which, in point of flavor, is the guinea- 
 hen's, and, in that of size, those of the 
 goose and duck. Although all these are 
 employed in cookery, yet the eggs of the 
 "common barn-door fowl" are those most 
 generally used when served up separate- 
 ly and boiled in the shell, in which case 
 the mam point is their entire freshness. 
 This can partly be judged of by putting 
 them between you and the light, and 
 seeing that the white is clear and the 
 yolk unclouded; for although nothing 
 can be more delicately nutritive when 
 newly laid, few things are more nause- 
 ous when they are stale. 
 
 1408. TO KEEP EGGS FOE WINTER USE. 
 
 Pour a full gallon of boiling water on 
 two quarts of quicklime and half a 
 pound of salt ; when cold, mix into it an 
 ounce of cream of tartar. The day fol- 
 lowing put in the eggs. After the lime 
 has been stirred well into the boiling 
 water, a large part of it will settle at the 
 
460 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 bottom of the vessel, on which the eggs 
 will remain. Keep them covered with 
 the liquor, and they will keep for two 
 years. 
 
 1409 TO BOIL EGGS. 
 
 To effect the simple process of boiling 
 demands constant attention, as half a 
 minute more or less may spoil the egg 
 for a fastidious palate. Some put them 
 into cold water, and, when it boils, allow 
 the eggs to remain in it for a minute 
 longer ; while others prefer putting them 
 into boiling water, and there leaving 
 them until done. That time is most 
 commonly three minutes, and seldom 
 less ; but many persons object to their 
 being left so soft, and four or five min- 
 utes are not unusual if the eggs are not 
 "new-laid." Ten minutes are required 
 for making the yolks hard enough for 
 salad, after which the eggs should be put 
 for some time into cold water to harden, 
 or the yolks will not readily incorporate 
 with the condiments.- 
 
 It should, however, be understood that, 
 in whatever way the egg is to be boiled, 
 it should be completely covered with 
 water ; that if put into the water while 
 boiling, the shell is subject to being 
 cracked ; and if boiled too suddenly, the 
 white becomes hard, while the yolk re- 
 mains comparatively soft. The cook 
 should therefore be provided with min- 
 ute glasses of various sizes from one 
 minute to five to mark the time; for 
 they are more accurate than the hand 
 of a kitchen clock, and do not require so 
 much watching. 
 
 i4io. TO POACH "EGGS . 
 
 Is to boil them without their shells, 
 and requires still greater care. The 
 water must be perfectly pure, and the 
 yolk must be only just so much done as 
 to fix itself firmly in the centre of the 
 white. 
 
 Egg Poacher. 
 
 Put a moderate quantity of water in- 
 to a broad fiat stewpan. French cooks 
 add to it, when boiling, a spoonful of 
 vinegar and a little salt. Take the pan 
 off the fire whilst putting in the eggs ; 
 break the egg into a teacup or small la- 
 dle, and turn it gently into the water, so 
 as to prevent the yolk from being mixed 
 with the white ; let them stand till be- 
 ginning to set; then let the eggs boil 
 gently until you perceive that they are 
 done, by the white being set, and the 
 yolk appearing through it in a compara- 
 tively soft state; then take each from 
 the water with an egg-slice, and pare off 
 any ragged edges, which may appear 
 around it, before sending to table. This 
 latter operation, however, if not quickly 
 done, cools the egg, which ought to be 
 served quite hot, to avoid which incon- 
 venience, a little machine for poaching 
 has been invented. 
 
 Poached eggs are commonly placed 
 upon buttered toast, broiled ham, or boil- 
 ed spinach. 
 
 1411. OMELETTE. 
 
 This is the most usual mode of dressing 
 eggs, after that of boiling them in the 
 shell. 
 
 Four eggs will make a very pretty siz- 
 ed omelet, but the number must of course 
 depend on the size required. If sweet 
 herbs be put in, a good deal of parsley 
 should form part ; tarragon gives a high 
 flavor, and chives or shalots are not un- 
 
OMELETTES. 
 
 461 
 
 frequently used, but care should be taken 
 that the flavor should not overpower that 
 of the other ingredients. 
 
 Omelets are judiciously varied by 
 mixing grated ham or tongue with minc- 
 ed anchovies, when served at supper or 
 as a side-dish at dinner; but when in 
 tended for the breakfast-table, it is more 
 delicate to make them of eggs alone. 
 
 Although a common frying-pan may 
 be used, yet one made -on purpose, not 
 larger than the size of a dessert-plate, 
 should be employed, so as not to allow 
 the omelet too much spreading, for it 
 should always be kept of a certain degree 
 of thickness to secure the softness of the 
 inside. It is therefore only to be fried 
 on one side, and when the under is 
 browned and the upper brought to a 
 moderate state of consistence, the fried 
 side is to be folded over the other in 
 three. 
 
 Butter is better than either lard or 
 dripping for the frying of an omelet. Any 
 sort of pot-herbs is admissible ; and many 
 sorts of minced fowl and fish are pre- 
 pared in that manner. There are hun- 
 dreds of receipts for omelets, but the 
 principle is the same in all, the difference 
 being only in the flavoring. 
 
 1412. OMELETTE ATI NATUKEL. 
 
 Take four eggs, beat the yolks and 
 whites together with a table-spoonful of 
 milk, a little salt and pepper ; put two 
 ounces of butter into a frying-pan to 
 boil, and let it remain until it begins to 
 brown ; pour the batter into it, and let 
 it remain quiet for a minute ; turn up 
 the edges of the omelet gently from the 
 bottom of the pan with a fork ; shake it, 
 to keep it from burning at the bottom, 
 and fry it till of a bright brown. It 
 will not take more than five minutes 
 frying. 
 
 Aux fines Herbes. Beat up four eggs 
 with a little cream, salt, pepper, chives. 
 
 and parsley,, minced very small. Put a 
 piece of butter half the size of an egg 
 into the frying-pan; let it begin to 
 brown ; pour in the omelet, and allow it 
 to set a little ; then raise it round the 
 edge, to allow more of the mixture to 
 become brown. When that is done, 
 turn it over to double it ; but as in 
 browning the lower side the upper will 
 sometimes appear too soft ; in that case 
 make a slight use of the salamander, to 
 give it firmness ; put the dish on the fry- 
 ing-pan, and turn it over. Let the fir 
 be clear, but not too hot. 
 
 Aux Confitures. Beat up eight eggs 
 with a table-spoonful of powdered sugar, 
 a little nutmeg, a pinch of salt, some 
 finely -chopped lemon-peel, and a wine- 
 glass of creanij or about a quarter of an 
 ounce of butter. Make an omelet -pan 
 hot, put in a small piece ef butter, and, 
 when the 'eggs are thoroughly mixed, 
 pour them into the pan ; stir it about, 
 and, when set, arrange the omelet neatly 
 in the pan ; lay on two spoonfuls of jam, 
 roll it up, and glaze it with sugar and 
 the salamander. Any of the preserved 
 fruits, when prepared as jam, will answer 
 the purpose. 
 
 Uhe Omelette aux Amandes is also 
 looked upon as a delicacy, and made by 
 substituting almond-flour, or pounded 
 sweet almonds, for jam. 
 
 Une Omelette cPHuitres may be made 
 with four raw eggs, a little cream, beaten 
 up either with or without sweet herbs 
 and grated ham, but seasoned with a 
 little salt, pepper, and nutmeg, together 
 with a dozen oysters bearded, dried, 
 minced very small, and fried in butter. 
 
 1413. OMELETTE SOUFFL&E. 
 
 Take six eggs, separate the whites from 
 the yolks, add to the yolks a table-spoon- 
 ful of arrowroot or potato-flour, six 
 ounces of pounded loaf-sugar, some 
 grated lemon-peel, and a small quantity 
 
462 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 of lemon-zest, or chopped peel, or orange- 
 flower water. Beat the whole together 
 for several minutes, until they are made 
 into a batter, and then whip the whites 
 until they become a froth ; stir in lightly 
 the batter. Have ready an omelet-pan 
 of the proper size heated upon the stove ; 
 put into it a quarter of a pound of butter, 
 and when it begins to boil put the whole 
 into the pan, and stir it with a spoon 
 carefully until it becomes partially firm. 
 That done, turn it out upon a small cir- 
 cular dish, of silver or metal, as the ome- 
 let ought to acquire the form of a dome, 
 and the dish be placed in a very mode- 
 rately heated oven for at least ten min- 
 tues or a quarter of an hour, according 
 to the care and nicety ^with which it has 
 been made; after which it will have 
 risen into a puff of considerable height, 
 similar to the fashionable supper dish, 
 ' trifle." It should then be sprinkled 
 with a little powdered sugar, the sala- 
 mander held over it, and be served im- 
 mediately. 
 
 An Omelette Souffle should not be 
 cooked till the moment it is wanted. Its 
 whole 'delicacy, indeed, depends upon its 
 being quickly baked, being very light, 
 and, as Dr. Kitchiner observes, its mak- 
 ing but one movement viz. : from the 
 fire to the throat of the guest. The great 
 art is to make it light, foamy, and, as it 
 were, effervescent. 
 
 1414 (EUFS FEITS, OB FEIED EGGS. 
 
 Break some fresh eggs into a dish, 
 without damaging the yolks, and powder 
 over them a little pepper and salt. Then 
 fry some butter ; a quarter of a pound 
 will do for a dozen eggs. When the 
 butter is completely fried, pour it over 
 the eggs, and then put them into the fry- 
 ing-pao, which keep at a little distance 
 from the fire, for fear the eggs should 
 stick. When they are done at the bot- 
 tom, use the salamander for the top, till 
 
 they turn white. Then dish without 
 breaking them, and pour over them a 
 little vinegar. 
 
 1415. PLAIN BAKED EGGS. 
 
 Butter with one ounce a plated or com- 
 mon tart-dish, that will bear the heat of 
 the oven ; break carefully six eggs in it, 
 season with one pinch of pepper, half a 
 spoonful of salt, the juice of half a 
 lemon, and add 'half an ounce of butter 
 in small pieces over ; put in a slack oven 
 until set, and serve. * 
 
 1416. EANDALLED EGGS. 
 
 Twelve eggs boiled hard and halved ; 
 cut a piece from the ends of half of them 
 to allow them to stand, take out the 
 yolks, chop them, and mix chopped boil- 
 ed ham or tongue, season with nutmeg 
 and mace, moisten with butter, and put 
 it in the space within the egg. Put the 
 halves together, and stand the joined 
 eggs on end in the dish. 
 
 1417. (EUFS FAECIS. 
 
 Boil six eggs hard, remove the shells, 
 but leave the eggs whole ; cover them 
 with a rich forcemeat made with scraped 
 ham, .pounded anchovy, pounded veal, and 
 bacon fat, well pounded together and 
 highly Reasoned; brush them with the 
 yolk of egg, and dredge them with bread- 
 crumbs or vermicelli; fry them a pale 
 gold color, or put them for a quarter of 
 an hour in an oven, and serve them up 
 with gravy in the dish. 
 
 (Eufs sur le plat is a German mode of 
 frying an egg by means of a small cheese 
 plate, which, being thoroughly warmed, 
 is greased in the indented part with a 
 bit of butter or a very little sweet-oil, 
 and into this part the egg is broken from 
 the shell, thus retaining the exact rotun- 
 dity of the plate, which is then placed 
 upon the gridiron over a good fire. It 
 
EGGS. 
 
 463 
 
 may be slightly browned, if thought fit, 
 with a salamander, but does not need it ; 
 and though quite as delicate, yet renders 
 the egg rather more savory than by 
 poaching. 
 
 1418. EGGS AND VEGETABLES. 
 
 Eggs and Spinach. Poach half * a 
 dozen eggs, trim them nicely, and serve 
 them upon stewed spinach. 
 
 Eggs and Onions, or a la Tripe. Skin 
 six or eight onions, mince them, put some 
 butter into a stewpan and melt it, add 
 about two spoonfuls of flour, mix both 
 well together, then add the onions, and 
 wet them with milk, cream or water ; let 
 them stew, taking care that the onions 
 and butter do not become brown ; season 
 with a little salt and white pepper ; cut 
 some hard eggs into slices, and when the 
 sauce is ready put them in ; make the 
 whole very hot, and serve it up. 
 
 I 
 
 1419. CEUFS BKQUILLES. 
 
 Break four or six eggs ; beat them and 
 put them into a saucepan with a piece of 
 butter, a little salt, and a spoonful of 
 sauce or gravy, which makes the eggs 
 softer ; stir them over the fire until suf- 
 ficiently thick ; serve on a plate garnished 
 with toasted bread. To eggs dressed 
 this way, truffles, ham, mushrooms, &c., 
 minced, may be added. The difference 
 between this and an omelet is, that an 
 omelet is compact and turns out smooth, 
 whereas o&ufs Itrouilles are less done, and 
 are therefore broken. 
 
 In Ireland, where it is in general use, 
 it is usually served upon hot buttered 
 toast, and is there called " luttered eggs." 
 It is also very common in France, where 
 it is usually served for breakfast. 
 
 A very pretty dish of eggs is made thus : 
 Break some eggs into a small tart- 
 dish, without injuring the yolks, or lay- 
 ing one over the other. Drop on them 
 some warm butter, and lightly strew 
 
 crumbs of bread. Put it in the oven 
 until the whites be set, and serve with a 
 wreath of parsley round the edge. 
 
 1420 EGGS WITH BUKNT BUTTEE. 
 
 Put into a frying pan two ounces of 
 butter, which melt ; as soon as it is on 
 the point of browning, put in the eggs, 
 which have been previously brokea in a 
 basin, and seasoned with pepper and salt ; 
 when well set, serve, with a teaspoonful 
 of vinegar over the eggs. 
 
 1421. SNOW EGGS. 
 
 Take half a pint of milk and a little 
 sugar, and flavor it with orange-flower 
 water, or any other essence, and put it 
 in a stewpan on the fire, h|vmg previous- 
 ly beaten up the whites $T six eggs to a 
 stiff froth ; if very hot weather, you must 
 place the basin they are in on ice, or in 
 cold water ; whilst beating add some 
 powdered sugar lightly ; when the milk 
 is boiling, take the white up with a table- 
 spoon, and drop it, one table-spoonful at 
 a time, into the stewpan to poach, keep- 
 ing the shape of an egg, which turn over 
 when set ; when done, remove with a 
 colander on to a sieve, and dress them 
 in a crown on the dish you intend to 
 serve them on ; when all done, beat up 
 the yolks of four of the eggs in a stew- 
 pan, with a little sugar, and a few drops 
 of orange-flower water, pour part of the 
 boiling milk out of the stewpan into it, 
 sufficient to make a good stiff custard, 
 put it on the fire until rather thick, and 
 pour over the white, and serve either hot 
 or cold : the last is preferable. 
 
 1422. EGGS IN CASES. 
 Cut up a sheet of paper into pieces of 
 three inches square, turn up half an inch 
 all round so as to form a kind of square 
 case ; there will then remain but two 
 inches square in the inside. Take a 
 small piece of butter, a pinch of fine 
 bread crumbs, a little fine chopped pars- 
 ley, spring. onions, salt, and pepper, and 
 
464: 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 mix them together, put a little into each 
 case, then break one egg into each, put 
 them on a gridiron over a slow fire, and 
 do them gently, or place them in a dish 
 in an oven 5 when well set, serve. Small 
 round paper cases may be procured very 
 cheap. 
 
 1423. GARNITURE FOR OMELETTES. 
 
 Asparagus, Peas, and Green Peas. 
 Put in a stevvpan three spoonfuls of plain 
 boiled asparagus, that has previously 
 been cut up, add to it half an ounce of 
 butter, a little salt, pepper, and sugar, 
 warm it orfthe fire, moving it continually, 
 when warm, put it with a spoon in the 
 centre of the omelette, turn over, and 
 serve; the same with peas; rather thin 
 melted butter or white sauce may be 
 served round it. 
 
 Oysters. Open and blanch delicately 
 twelve middle-sized oysters, and put 
 them in a stewpan with their own gravy, 
 after having bearded them, add a talble- 
 spoonful of milk or cream, and give it a 
 boil, then add half an ounce of butter, in 
 which you have mixed a saltspoonful of 
 flour, stir it in without breaking the 
 oysters, put over the centre of your 
 omelette, and proceed as before. 
 
 Lobster. Cut half or a small one in 
 thin slices, put four table-spoonfuls of 
 melted butter in a stewpan, a few drops 
 of essence of anchovies, and a little 
 cayenne; put in your lobster, warm it 
 well, and put it in the middle of the 
 omelerte, as above. 
 
 Mushroom. Wash about ten small 
 fresh mushrooms, cut in slices, put in a 
 stewpan, with half an ounce of butter, a 
 little salt, pepper, and the juice of a 
 quarter of a lemon, simmer for a few 
 minutes on the fire till tender ; if too 
 liquid, add a little flour, place in centre 
 of omelette, and proceed as above. 
 
 Bacon. Cut two ounces of good lean 
 bacon in small dice, put in a pan to fry 
 
 with a pat of butter for one minute, then 
 mix with the eggs prepared as for ome- 
 lette of herbs, omitting the salt, and cook 
 the same way. This omelette is in great 
 repute in France, especially among the 
 epicures of the Barrieres, outside of 
 Paris. It prepares the palate to receive 
 with pleasure the cheap and acid wines 
 sold there, which must have been in- 
 vented by Bacchus when in a sour 
 humor. 
 
 TO MAKE BKEAD. 
 
 1424 
 
 For a good baking, take two and a half 
 pecks of wheat flour ; put it into a knead- 
 ing trough or earthen pan well glazed; 
 make a hole in the centre of the flour 
 and pour in a pint or more of good brew- 
 er's yeast, or still more of home-made, well 
 mixed with a pint of milk-warm water. 
 Stir in, with a spoon, flour enough to 
 make a batter ; sprinkle this with dry 
 flour, and cover it entirely. Cover the 
 whole lightly with a cloth, and set it by 
 the fire. This is setting the sponge. 
 When the batter has swelled and risen 
 so as to form cracks in the flour covering 
 it, scatter through it two table-spoonfuls 
 of fine salt, and mix the flour with soft 
 warm water, added by degrees. Work 
 and mould the dough thoroughly, knead- 
 ing it till smooth and light, and till not 
 a particle will stick to the hands. Then 
 sprinkle a mass of dough with flour, 
 cover it with a warm cloth, and let it 
 stand near the fire for an hour, or less in 
 warm weather. It has now risen to its 
 height. Divide it into seven loaves; 
 mould and form them lightly on the 
 paste-board, put -them on floured tin or 
 arthen plates, and place them in the 
 oven. 
 
 With good, dry, hard wood, the oven 
 will be heated in an hour. When the 
 coals are spread over the bottom, the 
 oven will be clear of smoke. Clean and 
 
BREAD. 
 
 465 
 
 sweep it, and throw in a little flour to 
 see if it is too hot ; if it burns black at 
 once, let the oven cool a little. When 
 the loaves are in, close the oven and 
 keep it tight. The loaves should be 
 done in from an hour to an hour and a 
 half. 
 
 When the loaves are baked, take them 
 from the oven, and put them on a clean 
 shelf, in a cool pantry, with a light cloth 
 over them. If the crust is scorched, or 
 the bread too much baked, wrap the 
 loaves in a clean coarse towel, slightly 
 damped. * 
 
 1425. BEOWN, OE DYSPEPSIA BEEAD. 
 
 Take six quarts of wheat meal, rather 
 coarsely ground, one teacup of good 
 yeast, and half a teacup of molasses, mix 
 these with a pint of milk-warm water 
 and a teaspoonful of saleratus. Make 
 a hole in the meal and stir this mix- 
 ture in the middle till it is like bat- 
 ter. Then proceed as with fine flour 
 bread. Make the dough, when sufficient- 
 ly light, into four loaves, which will 
 weigh two pounds per loaf when baked. 
 It requires a hotter oven than fine flour 
 bread, and must bake about an hour and 
 a half. 
 
 1426. EYE AND INDIAN BEEAD. 
 
 There are many different proportions 
 in the mixing of this bread. Some -put 
 one-third Indian with two of rye ; others 
 like one-third rye and two of Indian ; 
 others prefer it half and half. 
 
 If you use the largest proportion of 
 rye meal, make your dough stiffj so that 
 it will mould into loaves ; when it is 
 two-thirds Indian, it should be softer 
 and baked in deep earthen or tin pans 
 after the following rules : 
 
 Take four quarts of sifted Indian meal: 
 put it into a glazed earthen pan, sprinkle 
 over it a table-spoonful of fine salt ; pour 
 over it about two quarts of boiling 
 water, stir and*work it till every part of 
 
 the meal is thoroughly wet ; Indian meal 
 absorbs a greater quantity of water. 
 When it is about milk-warm, work hi 
 two quarts of rye meal, half a pint of 
 lively yeast, mixed with a pint of warm 
 water ; add more warm water if needed. 
 Work the mixture well with your hands : 
 it should be stiff, but not firm as flour 
 dough. Have ready a large, deep, well 
 buttered pan; put in the dough, and 
 smooth the top by putting your hand in 
 warm water, and then patting down the 
 loaf. Set this to rise in a warm place in 
 the winter ; in the summer it should not 
 be put by the fire. When it begins to 
 crack, on the top, which will usually be 
 in about an hour or an hour and a half, 
 put it into a well heated oven, and bake 
 it three or four hours. It is better to 
 let it stand in the oven all night, unless 
 the weather is warin. Indian meal re- 
 quires to be well cooked. The loaf will 
 weigh between seven and eight pounds. 
 
 There is another mode which many 
 persons think preferable. Scald a quart 
 of rye and another of Indian meal with 
 a small quantity of boiling water. Boil 
 a teaspoonful of salt in a pint and a half 
 of milk, mix the rye and Indian to- 
 gether, and pour the milk over them 
 add half a pint of fresh yeast ; but not 
 before the meal is cooling. The mixture 
 must be well kneaded and placed in a 
 deep pan by the fire to rise. When it 
 has risen sufficiently, take it out of the 
 pan, make it into any shape you like, 
 and put it into an oven well heated. If 
 the fire is too brisk the crust will brown 
 and the inside remain heavy. 
 
 Bake from two to three hours. 
 
 1427. TO MAKE EXCELLENT BEEAD 
 WITHOUT YEAST. 
 
 Scald about two handfuls of Indian 
 meal ; into which put a little salt, and as 
 much cold water as will make it rather 
 warmer than new milk ; then stir in 
 wheat flour, till it is as thick as a family 
 
106 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER 
 
 pudding, and set it down by the fire to 
 rise. In about half an hour it generally 
 grows thin; you may sprinkle a* little 
 fresh flour on the top, and mind to turn 
 the pot round, that it may not bake at 
 the side of it. In three or four hours, if 
 you mind the above directions, it will 
 rise and ferment as if you had set it 
 with hop yeast ; when it does, make it 
 up in soft dough, flour a pan, put in 
 your bread, set it before the fire, covered 
 up, turn it round to make it equally 
 warm, and in about half an hour it will 
 be light enough to bake. It suits best to 
 bake it in a Dutch oven, as it should be 
 put into the oven as soon as it is light. 
 
 1428. TO MAKE YEAST. 
 
 The settlings of home-brewed beer in 
 a clean cask, make good yeast. Com- 
 mon yeast is made thus : 
 
 Take two quarts of water, one hand- 
 ful of hops, two of wheat bran ; boil these 
 twenty minutes; strain off the water, 
 and while it is boiling hot, stir in wheat 
 or rye flour, to a thick batter : when 
 this is milk-warm, add half a pint of 
 good lively yeast and a large spoonful of 
 molasses ; stir well and set it away, in a 
 cool place in summer and a warm one in 
 winter. When light it is fit for use. 
 When cold, it may be put in a clean jug 
 or bottle ; do not fill the vessel contain- 
 ing it, and leave the cork loose till next 
 morning. Corked tightly, it Jwill keep 
 ten or twelve days in a cool place. 
 
 1429.-MILK YEAST. 
 
 To a pint of new milk put a teaspoon- 
 ful of salt or a large spoonful of flour ; 
 stir well, and keep it lukewarm by the 
 fire ; in .an hour it will be fit for use. 
 Twice as much must be used as of com- 
 mon yeast; and the bread dries soon; 
 and in summer this method is conven- 
 ient. 
 
 Never keep yeast in a tin vessel. If 
 sour, put in saleratus a teaspoonful to 
 
 a pint of yeast, when ready for use. If 
 it foams up lively, it will raise the bread ; 
 if not, throw it away. 
 
 1430. KICE BKEAD. 
 
 Boil soft a pint of rice ; when cold, 
 add a pint of leaven, and work in three 
 quarts of flour. It -will be light in an 
 hour in warm weather. Divide the 
 dough into three loaves, and bake in but- 
 tered tin pans. It grows dry soon. 
 
 1431. YEAST CAKES. 
 
 Boil . three ounces hops in six quarts 
 water, down to two quarts. Strain it, 
 and while boiling hot, stir in wheat 
 or rye meal to a batter. When milk- 
 warm, add half a pint of good yeast, and 
 let it stand till very light about three 
 hours. Then work in sifted Indian meal 
 till it is stiff dough. Roll out and cut 
 it in cakes three inches by two, half an 
 inch thick. Lay these cakes on a smooth 
 board, floured ; prick them with a fork, 
 and place them in a dry store room, ex- 
 posed to sun and air. Turn them every 
 day. They will be dry in a fortnight. 
 When dry, put them into a coarse, cot- 
 ton bag, and hang them in a cool, dry 
 place. They will keep .a year. Two 
 will raise a peck of flour. Break them 
 into a pint of milk-warm water, and stir 
 in a spoonful of flour the evening before 
 you bake ; then set it in a moderately 
 warm place till morning. 
 
 Bread made at home is not only more 
 palatable, but far more economical. A 
 stove will bake with little expense of 
 fuel, and the flour used for a family will 
 cost one-third less than bread bought. 
 You are sure too, that good flour is used, 
 and that your bread 1 contains no alum, 
 ammonia, or sulphate of zinc, which it' is 
 said bakers put in to make their bread 
 light and white. Baker's bread is nearly 
 tasteless, dries directly, and can not be 
 as nutritious as bread bak^d at home. 
 
 Ladies keeping house in the city ought 
 
BISCUITS. 
 
 467 
 
 to make their own bread as well as cake, 
 or at least superintend the process. It 
 requires no sacrifice of time, and is a 
 neat, delicate, and ladylike employment.. 
 Three things, however, are requisite 
 yeast just lively enoflgh, dough just 
 light enough, and an oven just hot 
 enough. Practice will show how to at- 
 tain perfection in these respects. 
 
 1482. BOTATO BAEM. 
 
 Boil half an ounce of hops in four 
 quarts of water, and leave it till the hops 
 sink ; then strain it into an earthen pot, 
 and. when milk-warm, add three table-' 
 spoonfuls of sugar and half a pint of flour, 
 leave it near the fire, frequently stirring 
 it, for twenty-four hours. Then add four 
 pounds potatoes pounded and pulped 
 through a colander; they are best un- 
 boiled. When the mixture is well risen, 
 half a pint will do for four quarts of 
 flour. The bread requires much knead- 
 ing, and should be left eight or ten hours 
 to rise. A few spoonfuls of beer barm 
 are an improvement to the stock, which 
 should not be allowed to run out, as a 
 little of the old will improve a new 
 supply. 
 
 Brick ovens are the best for baking all 
 kinds of bread, large cakes and pies ; the 
 re'ason of which is chiefly owing to their 
 being generally^ capable of retaining the 
 heat a much longer time than 6ne built 
 of iron. 
 
 For the baking of pastry, light bread, 
 rolls, and breakfast-cakes, the iron ovens, 
 fixed in the usual kitchen ranges, have 
 the advantage of requiring but little fire, 
 and enabling the cook to regulate its 
 temperature. 
 
 1483. ALMOND BEEAD. 
 
 Blanch, and pound in a mortar, half a 
 pound of shelled sweet almonds till they 
 are a smooth paste, adding rose-water as 
 you pound them. They should be done 
 the day before they are wanted. Pre- 
 
 pare a pound of loaf-sugar finely pow- 
 dered, a teaspoonful of mixed spice, mace, 
 nutmeg and cinnamon, and three-quarters 
 of a pound of sifted flour. Take fourteen 
 eggs, and separate the whites from the 
 yolks. Leave out seven of the whites, 
 and beat the other seven to a stiff froth. 
 Beat the yolks till very thick and smooth, 
 and then beat the sugar gradually into 
 them, adding the spice. Next stir in the 
 white of egg, then the flour, and lastly 
 the almonds. You may add twelve drops 
 of essence of lemon. 
 
 Put the mixture into a square tin pan, 
 well buttered, or into a copper or tin- 
 turban mould, and set it immediately in 
 a brisk oven. Ice it" when cool. It is 
 best when eaten fresh. 
 
 You may add a few bitter almonds to 
 the sweet ones. 
 
 1434.-DAMASCUS BISCUITS. 
 
 Take the whites of three eggs beaten 
 to a froth, a quarter of a pound of good 
 beef suet chopped very fine, and half an 
 ounce of bitter almonds blanched, chop- 
 ped fine, and beaten well with the froth of 
 the eggs. Then take the yolks of the 
 eggs, and mix with six ounces of sifted 
 loaf sugar, beat well, pour into the mix- 
 ture of almonds and whites of egg ; mix 
 well, and shake in two ounces of flour, 
 with sufficient lemon to flavor them. 
 Pour into small tins, or moulded papers, 
 and bake in a quick oven. 
 
 1435. MILK BISCUITS. 
 
 A quarter of a pound of butter, one- 
 quart of milk, one gill of yeast, as much 
 flour as will form the dough, and a little 
 salt. Stir flour into the milk, so as to 
 form a very thick batter, and add the 
 yeast; this is called a sponge. This 
 should be done in the evening ; in the 
 morning cut up the butter, and set it 
 near the fire, where it will dissolve, but 
 not get hot ; pour the melted butter into 
 the spongej then stir in enough flour to 
 
468 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 form a dough, knead it well and stand it 
 away to rise. As soon as it is perfectly 
 light, butter your tins, make out the 
 dough in small cakes, and let them rise. 
 When they are light, bake them in a very 
 quick oven, and send them to the table hot. 
 
 14S6.-EOLLS. 
 
 French Rolls are usually made by the 
 bakers, but in country houses, where 
 families bake their own bread, they may 
 be done as follows : 
 
 Sift one pound of flour, and rub into it 
 two ounces of butter j mix in the whites 
 only of three eggs beaten to a froth, and 
 a table-spoonful of strong yeast j to which 
 add enough of milk, with a little salt, to 
 make a stiff dough, and set it covered be- 
 fore the fire to rise which will take 
 about an hour ; and, if cut into small 
 rolls, and put into a quick oven, will be 
 done in little more than ten minutes. 
 
 1487.-KOCKS. 
 
 Take a loaf that is half baked, pull it 
 apart, and with two forks tear the crumb 
 into bits about the size of a walnut ; lay 
 them on a 'tin, and return them to the 
 oven, and bake of a light brown. A loaf 
 made for the purpose with milk and a 
 little butter makes them nicer. A sweet 
 cake pulled in this *way is very good. 
 
 1488. MUFFINS. 
 
 Take two eggs, two spoonfuls of new 
 yeast, and a little salt. Mix a little 
 warm new milk and water into a quart 
 of flour. Beat all well together, and let 
 it stand to rise. Bake them for about 
 twenty minutes, until of a light brown, 
 either on a hot iron, or in shallow tin 
 rings in a Dutch oven. When to be 
 brought to table, toast them slightly on 
 both sides, but not in the middle : then 
 notch them round the centre, and pull 
 them open with your fingers, without 
 using a knife, and butter ihem. 
 
 1439. CEUMPETS. 
 
 Beat two eggs very well, put to them 
 a quart of warm milk and water, and a 
 large spoonful of yeast ; beat in as much 
 fine flour as will make them rather thicker 
 than a common batter pudding; then 
 make the stove hot, and rub it with a 
 little butter wrapped in a clean linen 
 cloth ; pour a large spoonful of the batter 
 upon the iron, and let ^t run within a 
 ring to the size of a teasaucer ; turn them 
 with the elastic blade of an old table- 
 knife, and when you want to use them, 
 toast them very quickly, but not too 
 crisply, and butter them. 
 
 1440. SALLY-LUNN. 
 
 Into one pint of flour rub a piece of 
 butter the size of a walnut, a little salt 
 and a little yeast. Let it rise half an 
 hour before the fire. Then mix it with 
 two eggs, and if not enough add a little 
 milk ; knead the dough well and let it 
 stand some minutes before the fire ; after 
 which make this quantity into five cakes 
 and have them slack-baked, as they must 
 be well warmed in a Dutch oven before 
 being toasted for table. 
 
 1441. BUCKWHEAT CAKES. 
 
 Mix a quart of buckwheat flour with 
 a pint of lukewarm milk, (water will do, 
 but is not as good.) and a teacup of yeast 
 set it in a warm place to rise. When 
 light, (which will be in the course of 
 eight or ten hours if family yeast is used, 
 if brewer's yeast is used they will rise 
 much quicker,) add a teaspoonful of salt 
 if sour, the same quantity of saleratus 
 dissolved in a little milk, and strained. 
 If they are too thick, thin them with 
 cold milk or water. Bake them with 
 just /at enough to prevent their sticking 
 to the griddle. 
 
 1442. EICE CAKES. 
 
 Boil a cupful of rice until it becomes 
 
BREAKFAST CAKES. 
 
 469 
 
 soft; while it is warm mix a large 
 lump of butter with it and a little salt. 
 Add as much milk to a small teacupful of 
 flour and a little corn meal, scalded, as 
 will make a tolerably stiff batter stir it 
 until it is quite smooth and then mix it 
 with the rice. Beat five eggs as light as 
 possible and add them to the rice. 
 
 These cakes are fried on a griddle as 
 all other pancakes they must be care- 
 fully turned. 
 
 Serve them with powdered sugar and 
 nutmeg. They should be served as hot 
 as possible. 
 
 1443. -FLANNEL CAKES AND WAFFLES. 
 
 Stir into two pints of flour as much 
 milk as will make a light batter. Melt 
 a large lump of butter and add with it a 
 little salt. Beat together five eggs and 
 stir them into the batter. 
 
 These cakes are to be baked on a 
 griddle. Serve them with powdered 
 sugar. 
 
 It is customary to mix with the butter 
 a table-spoonful of yeast and leave it to 
 rise for several hours ; but this is un- 
 necessary unless you wish to bake the 
 cakes in waffle or wafer irons. 
 
 1444. EGG BISCUIT. 
 
 One pound of flour ; wet nearly all of 
 it to a paste with the whites of two eggs, 
 beat and roll out thin, work in three- 
 quarters of a pound of butter, placing 
 bits on the paste, flouring, folding, and 
 rolling it out again till all is used. Move 
 the rolling pin from you always. Cut 
 out in small squares or with a tumbler, 
 arid bake in a quick oven. 
 
 1445. APPLE BEEAD. 
 
 A very light pleasant bread is made in 
 France by a mixture of apples and flour, 
 in the proportion of one of the former 
 to two of the latter. The usual quantity 
 of yeast is employed as in making com- 
 30 
 
 | mon bread, and is beat with flour and 
 j warm pulp of the apples after they have 
 boiled, and the dough is then considered 
 as pet : it is then put in a proper vessel, 
 and allowed to rise for eight or twelve 
 ! hours, and then baked in long loaves. 
 Very little water is requisite ; none, ge- 
 nerally, if the apples are very fresh. 
 
 1446.-JOHNNY CAKES. 
 
 Sift a quart of corn meal into a pan, 
 make a hole in the middle, and pour in a 
 pint of warm water. Mix the meal and 
 water gradually into a batter, adding a 
 teaspoouful of salt ; beat it very quickly, 
 and for a long time, till it becomes quite 
 light ; then spread it thick and even on 
 a stout piece of smooth board ; place it 
 upright on the hearth before a clear fire, 
 with something to support the board be- 
 hind, and bake it well; cut it into 
 squares, and split and butter them hot. 
 
 Cakes may also be made with a quart 
 of milk, three eggs, one teaspoonful of 
 carbonate of soda, and one teacupful of 
 wheat-flour ; add Indian meal sufficient 
 4;o make a batter like that of pancakes, 
 and either bake it in buttered pans, or 
 upon a griddle, and eat them with 
 butter. 
 
 1447. INDIAN GPJDDLE (JAKES 
 
 Are made with one pint of Indian meal, 
 four table-spoonfuls of flour, one quart of 
 milk, four eggs, and salt to taste. 
 
 1443. TO MAKE EUSK. 
 
 Take a piece of bread -dough large 
 enough to fill a quart bowl, one teacup 
 of melted butter, one egg, one teaspoon- 
 ful of saleratus ; knead quite hard, roll 
 out thin, lap it together, roll to the thick- 
 ness of a thin biscuit, cut out with a bis- 
 cuit mould, and set it to rise in a warm 
 place. From twenty 'to thirty minutes 
 will generally be sufficient. Bake them 
 and dry thoroughly through, and you 
 
470 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 will have an excellent rusk to eat with 
 your coffee. You can make them with 
 hop yeast, and sweeten them, too, if you 
 please ; use milk with yeast. 
 
 1449. BANNOCK OE INDIAN MEAL 
 'CAKES. 
 
 Stir to a cream a pound and a quarter 
 of brown sugar, a pound of butter beat 
 six eggs, and mix them with the sugar 
 and butter add a teaspoonful of cinna- 
 mon or ginger stir in a pound and three- 
 quarters of white Indian meal, and a 
 quarter of a pound of wheat flour, (the 
 meal should be sifted.) Bake it in small 
 cups, and let it remain in them till cold. 
 
 Corn Cake Pan. 
 1450. EUSK. 
 
 Melt four ounces of butter in half a 
 pint of new milk ; then add to this seven 
 eggs, well beaten, a quarter of a pint of 
 yeast, and three ounces of sugar; put 
 this mixture, by degrees, into as much 
 flour as will make an extremely light 
 paste, more like batter, and set it to rise 
 before the fire for half an hour ; then 
 add more flour to make it rather stiffer, 
 but not stiff. Work it well, and divide 
 it into small loaves or cakes, about five 
 or six inches wide, and flatten them. 
 When baked and cold, slice them the 
 thickness of rusks, and brown them a 
 little hi the oven. 
 
 1451. MUFFINS. 
 
 Mix a quart of wheat flour smoothly 
 with a pint and a half of lukewarm milk, 
 half a teacup of yeast, a couple of beaten 
 eggs, a heaping teaspoonful of salt, and a 
 couple of table-spoonfuls of lukewarm 
 melted butter. Set the batter in a warm 
 place to rise. When light, butter your 
 
 muffin-cups, turn in the mixture, and 
 bake the muffins till a light brown. 
 
 1452. SOFT WAFFLES. 
 
 Stir into a quart of flour sufficient 
 lukewarm milk to make a thick batter. 
 The milk should be stirred in gradually, 
 so as to have it free from lumps. Put 
 in a table-spoonful of melted butter, a 
 couple of beaten eggs, a teaspoonful of 
 salt, and half a teacup of yeast. When 
 risen, fill your waffle-irons with the batter 
 bake them on a bed of coals. When 
 they have been on the fire between two 
 and three minutes, turn the waffle-irons 
 over when brown on both sides, they 
 are sufficiently baked. The waffle-irons 
 should be well greased with lard, and 
 very hot, before each one is put in. 
 The waffles should be buttered as soon as 
 cooked. Serve them up with powder- 
 ed white sugar and cinnamon. 
 
 For Rice Waffles. Take a teacup and 
 a half of boiled rice warm it with a pint 
 of milk, mix it smooth, then take it from 
 the fire, stir in a pint of cold milk, and 
 a teaspoonful of salt. Beat four eggs, 
 and stir them in, together with sufficient 
 flour to make a thick batter. 
 
 1453. SHOET CAKES. 
 
 Dissolve half a pound of fresh butter 
 in as much milk as will make a pound 
 and a half of flour into a paste, roll it 
 out about a quarter of an inch thick, and 
 cut it into large round cakes. Do them 
 in a frying-pan, and serve them hot. 
 They are eaten with butter. 
 
 1454 WAFEE CAKES. 
 
 Wafer cakes are an excellent tea cake, 
 and they do not take long to make, al- 
 though a little practice is necessary be- 
 fore they can be successfully made. 
 
 Beat three eggs quite light. Wash a 
 little less than a quarter of a pound of 
 butter, to extract the salt from it, and 
 mix it with a quarter of a pound of 
 
BREAKFAST CAKES. 
 
 471 
 
 lilfted sugar add the beaten eggs, a tea- 
 spoonful of rose-water, and as much sifted 
 flour as will make a thin batter. Stir 
 the batter with a wooden spoon until it 
 is perfectly smooth and so light as to 
 break when it falls against the sides of 
 the vessel. Your wafer-iron should be 
 heated, but not too hot, or the butter 
 will burn. Grease the iron with butter 
 tied up in a linen rag, twice doubled. 
 Fill the iron with the batter and close it. 
 Place it in the fire in such a manner 
 that both sides will heat at once ; if this 
 cannot be done turn the iron frequently. 
 The batter will be cooked in about two 
 minutes if properly managed. 
 
 You may sprinkle the wafer with 
 pounded sugar and roll it over a smooth 
 stick made for the purpose. 
 
 Southern biscuit is made with a large 
 spoonfnl of lard to a pint of flour ; add 
 saltj knead the dough, and beat it well. 
 
 1455. MILK TOAST. 
 
 Boil a pint of rich milk, and then take 
 it off and stir into it a quarter of a pound 
 of fresh butter, mixed with a small table- 
 spoonful of flour. Then let it again 
 come to a boil. Have ready two deep 
 plates with half a dozen slices of toast 
 in each. Pour the milk over them hot, 
 and keep them covered till they go to 
 table. Milk toast is generally eaten at 
 breakfast. 
 
 The warming of the bread gradually 
 through, on both sides, is a very great 
 improvement upon the quality of the 
 toast. 
 
 All kinds of toast must be done the 
 same way ; but if to be served under a 
 bird, eggs, or kidneys, it requires to be 
 toasted drier. 
 
 Dry toast should not be made until 
 quite ready to serve ; when done, place 
 it in a toast-rack, or upon its edges, one 
 piece resting against another. Any kind 
 of toast that has been made half an hour 
 is not worth eating. 
 
 1456. MILK ROLLS. 
 
 Have a convenient-sized basin, into 
 which put half a pound of the best flour, 
 making a hole in the middle ; add half 
 an ounce of yeast, one ounce of butter, a 
 teaspoonful of powdered sugar, and half 
 ditto of salt, over which pour three 
 large wineglassfuls of lukewarm milk; 
 mix the whole, by degrees, with your 
 hand, (using a little more flour,) until 
 forming a stiffish paste ; rub off the 
 paste which adheres to your fingers, and 
 form the whole into a ball, which leave 
 at the bottom of the basin, covered over 
 with a clean cloth, and set it half an hour 
 to rise, in a warmish place, after which 
 throw a little flour upon a dresser, cut 
 the paste into pieces the size of eggs, 
 mould them of a round, oval, or any 
 other shape you may fancy, egg over with 
 a paste-brush, and place them upon a 
 baking-sheet, or upon the bottom of the 
 oven if clean and not too hot; bake 
 quickly. 
 
 Rolls are made with soda and cream 
 of tartar ; a teaspoonful of the first to two 
 of the latter. Or, with sour cream and 
 soda, instead of yeast. 
 
 1457. TOPS AND BOTTOMS. 
 
 Make a dough as for rusks, but using 
 only half the butter ; have a deep-edged 
 baking-sheet well buttered, and when 
 the dough is ready, turn it on to a dress- 
 er, well floured ; divide into small pieces 
 the size of walnuts, which mould into 
 round balls, and place close together 
 upon the baking-sheet; put them in a 
 warm place to rise, and bake well in a 
 moderate oven. When cold, divide and 
 cut each one in halves (making a top and 
 bottom) which brown in the oven. 
 
 1458. BUNS. 
 
 Put three pounds of flour in an earth- 
 en pan, make a hole in the middle, in 
 which put some yeast, dissolved in three 
 
472 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 parts of a pint of warm water, and stir 
 in a little of the flour, forming a thinnish 
 batter ; let it remain in a warm place 
 nearly an hour, until well fermented; 
 then add half a pound of sugar, a few 
 currants, and half a pound of butter, 
 dissolved in nearly a pint of warm milk ; 
 mix the whola well together, making a 
 soft but dry dough ; let it remain in a 
 warm place until it rises very light, then 
 turn it out of the pan on to a board ; 
 work it well with the hands, shaking 
 flour over lightly; then mould it into 
 small round balls, double the size of wal- 
 nuts, which place upon a buttered bak- 
 ing-sheet, four inches apart ; moisten the 
 tops with milk ; put them in a warm 
 place to rise ; not, however, permitting 
 them to crack, and bake them in a hot 
 oven. 
 
 1459. SOYEE'S BEIOCHE EOLLS. 
 Put four pounds of flour upon a dress- 
 er, one pound of which put on one side, 
 make a hole in the middle, into which 
 pour nearly three parts of a pint of warm 
 water, in which you have dissolved yeast ; 
 mix it into a stiff but delicate paste, 
 which roll up into a ball : cut an incision 
 across it, and lay it in a basin well flour- 
 ed, in a warm place, until becoming very 
 light; then make a large hole in the 
 centre of the three pounds of flour, into 
 which put half an ounce of salt, two 
 pounds of fresh butter, half a gill of 
 water, and sixteen eggs ; mix it into a 
 softish flexible paste, which press out 
 flat, lay the leaven upon it, folding it 
 over and working with the hands until 
 well amalgamated; flour a clean cloth, 
 fold the paste in it and let it remain all 
 night. In the morning mould them into 
 small rolls; put them upon a baking- 
 sheet, and bake in a moderate oven. Un- 
 less your breakfast party be very large, 
 half the above quantity will be suflScient. 
 These rolls being a luxury, I make them 
 only upon very especial occasions. 
 
 BUTTER. 
 
 Mrs. Hale says: "Always to make 
 good butter or cheese shows great care 
 and excellent judgment in the farmer's 
 wife. "When every department of the 
 dairy is kept perfectly neat, there is 
 hardly any exhibition of woman's indus- 
 try more likely to make her husband 
 proud, or gratify a beholder of good sense 
 and benevolence, than the sight of a neat 
 dairy -room filled with the rich, valuable 
 productions which her skill has fashion- 
 ed from the milk of the cow. 
 
 " The secret of success in the dairy is 
 strict attention and scrupulous neatness 
 in all its operations. The best time to 
 make butter is in June, when the pas- 
 tures are rich with clover, and Septem- 
 ber, when the fall feed is in its* perfec- 
 tion. July and August are the months 
 for cheese ; then the rich new milk and 
 cream cheeses are made. 
 
 " To insure good butter, you must al- 
 ways scald your pails, &c., in hot water, 
 and then heat them by the fire, or in 
 the hot sun, so that they may be per- 
 fectly sweet. 
 
 " Keep your cream in a cool place in 
 summer, and churn twice a week. 
 
 " Work out all the luttermilJc.This 
 must be done, or the butter will not 
 keep well ; and do not make the butter 
 too salt. 
 
 " Never put butter in a pine tub. 
 
 "Pickle for Butter. Allow half a 
 pound of salt, an ounce of saltpetre, and 
 half a pound of sugar to three quarts of 
 water; dissolve them together; scald 
 and skim the pickle ; let it be entirely 
 cold, and then pour it over the butter 
 
 "Keep your chees* in a dark, cool 
 room, and turn and rub them every day. 
 The fat fried out of salt pork, is the best 
 preservative to rub on cheese, and gives 
 a rich color and smoothness to the rind. 
 
BUTTEK. 
 
 4Y3 
 
 " Kever wash your cheese shelves ; 
 but always wipe them clean with a dry 
 cloth, when you turn your cheese. 
 
 " Do not heat the milk too hot j it 
 should never, for new milk cheese, be 
 more than blood- warm ; be sure that 
 your rennet is good, and do not use more 
 than it requires to bring the curd. 
 
 " Cover the pan or tub in which milk 
 is set to coagulate, and do not disturb it 
 for half an hour or more. 
 
 " Cut the curd, when fully formed, 
 carefully with a knife ; never break it 
 with your hand ; and be very particular, 
 when draining it from the whey, not to 
 squeeze or handle the curd j if you make 
 the white whey run from the curd, you 
 lose much of the richness of the cheese." 
 
 1460. TO CUEE BUTTEK IN THE BEST 
 MANNEK. 
 
 The following receipt is from " The 
 Housewife's Manual," a work said to 
 have been prepared by Sir Walter 
 Scott. 
 
 Having washed and beaten the butter 
 free of buttermilk, work it quickly up, 
 allowing a scanty half ounce of fine salt 
 to the pound. Let the butter lie for 
 twenty -four hours, or more ; then, for 
 every pound, allow a half ounce of the 
 following mixture: Take four ounces 
 of salt, two of loaf sugar, and a quarter 
 of an ounce of saltpetre. Beat them all 
 well together, and work the mixture 
 thoroughly into the butter ; then pack it 
 down in jars or tubs. Instead of strew- 
 ing a layer of salt on the top of the but- 
 ter, which makes the first slice unfit for 
 use, place a layer of the above mixture 
 in folds of thin muslin, stitch it loosely, 
 and lay this neatly over the top, which 
 will effectually preserve it. 
 
 To freshen salt butter. Churn it anew 
 in sweet milk, a quart to the pound. The 
 butter will gain in weight. 
 
 To improve rancid butter. Wash it, 
 
 melt it gradually, skim it, and put to it 
 a slice of charred or hard toasted bread, 
 or some bits of charcoal. 
 
 1461. TO MAKE BUTTER. 
 
 The milk pans should be scalded 
 every day. After the milk has stood 
 twenty-four hours skim off the cream, 
 and deposit it in a large earthen jar 
 kept closely covered. Stir up the cream 
 with a stick every day to prevent the 
 skin from gathering. Butter of only 
 two or three days is best. Strain the 
 cream from the jar into the churn and 
 put on the lid. In warm weather move 
 the handle slowly, or the butter will be 
 too soft. When the handle moves with 
 great difficulty the butter has come. 
 Take it out with a wooden ladle and 
 squeeze out the remains of milk. Add a 
 little salt and work it well. Set it in a 
 cool place for three hours, then work it 
 again. Wash it in cold water, and put it 
 away for use. 
 
 1462. BUTTEE TO CLAEIFT. 
 
 Scrape off the outsides of the butter 
 you may require, and then put it into a 
 stewpan by the side of a slow fire, where 
 it must remain till the scum rises to the 
 top and the milk settles at the bottom ; 
 carefully with a spoon take off the scum j 
 when clear, it is fit for use. 
 
 To preserve it for winter, take two 
 parts of the best common salt, one part 
 of good loaf sugar, and one part salt- 
 petre, beat them well together ; to sixteen 
 ounces of butter thoroughly cleansed 
 from the milk put one ounce of the above 
 composition } work it well, and put it into 
 pots when quite firm and cold. 
 
 CAKES, &o. 
 
 In making cakes it is indispensably 
 necessary that all the ingredients should be 
 heated before they are mixed together, 
 
474 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 for which purpose every thing should be 
 prepared for an hour or two previously 
 to their being -wanted, and placed near 
 the fire or upon a stove the flour 
 thoroughly dried and warmed ; the cur- 
 rants, sugar, carraway-seed, and any thing 
 else required, heated in the same way ; 
 butter and eggs should be beaten in 
 basins fitted into kettles or pans of warm 
 water, which will give them the requisite 
 degree of temperature. Without these 
 precautions cakes will be heavy, and the 
 best materials, with the greatest pains, 
 will fail to produce the desired results. 
 
 Currants should be very nicely wash- 
 ed, dried in a cloth, and then set before 
 the fire. If damp, they will make cakes 
 or puddings heavy. Before they are to 
 be used, a dust of dry flour should be 
 thrown among them, and a shake given 
 to them, which causes the cakes to be 
 lighter. 
 
 Eggs should be very long beaten, 
 whites and yolks apart, and always 
 strained. 
 
 Sugar should be pounded in a mortar, 
 or rubbed to a powder on a clean board, 
 and sifted through a very fine hair or 
 lawn sieve. 
 
 Lemon-peel should be grated or pared 
 very thin, and, with a little sugar, beaten 
 in a marble mortar to a paste ; and then 
 mixed with a little wine or cream, so as 
 to divide easily among the other ingre- 
 dients. The pans should be of earthen- 
 ware ; nor should eggs or batter and 
 sugar be beaten in tins, as the coldness 
 of the metal will prevent them from be- 
 coming light. 
 
 Use no flour but the best superfine ; 
 for if the flour be of inferior quality the 
 cakes will be heavy, ill-colored, and unfit 
 to eat; but if a little potato-flour be 
 added, it will improve their lightness. 
 Cakes are frequently rendered hard, 
 heavy, and uneatable, by misplaced 
 economy in eggs and butter, or for want 
 of a due seasoning in spice and sugar. 
 
 After all the articles are put into the 
 pan, they should be thoroughly and long 
 beaten, as the lightness of the cake de- 
 pends much on their being well in- 
 corporated. 
 
 Accuracy in proportioning the ingre- 
 dients is also indispensable ; and there- 
 fore scales, weights, and measures, down 
 to the smallest quantity, are of the ut- 
 most importance. 
 
 Iron ovens are desirable, as well for 
 their economy of fuel as for the short 
 time in which they can be heated, and on 
 account of the celerity and convenience 
 with which one person may prepare large 
 quantities of small pastry, and bake it 
 also. 
 
 The most vigilant care and attention 
 are necessary in order to secure success 
 in the baking of delicate pastry or cakes ; 
 for however well they may have been pre- 
 pared, if not equally well baked, the re- 
 sult will be unsatisfactory. 
 
 If the oven be not lighted long enough 
 to have a body of heat, or if it is become 
 slack, the cake will be heavy. If not 
 pretty quick, the batter will not rise. 
 
PLUM CAKE. 
 
 475 
 
 Should you fear its being too quick, put 
 some paper over the cake to prevent its 
 being burnt. To know when it is soaked, 
 take a broad-bladed knife that is very 
 bright, and plunge it into the very centre, 
 draw it instantly out, and if the least 
 stickiness adheres, put the cake imme- 
 diately in again, and shut up the oven. 
 
 If the heat should be sufficient to 
 raise, but not to soak it, let fresh fuel be 
 quickly put in, and the cakes kept hot 
 until the oven is fit to finish the soak- 
 ing. 
 
 Bread and. cakes mixed with milk .eat 
 best when new, but become stale sooner 
 than others. 
 
 Cakes kept in drawers or wooden 
 boxes have a disagreeable 1 taste. Earthen 
 pans and covers, or tin boxes, preserve 
 them best ; but in making large cakes of 
 any kind, which are to be baked in hoops, 
 use those of wood. Cakes made with 
 yeast should always be eaten fresh. 
 
 1463. PLUM CAKE (English). 
 
 Mix thoroughly two quarts of fine 
 flour, well dried, with one pound of dry 
 and sifted loaf-sugar, three pounds of 
 currants washed and very dry, half a 
 pound of raisins stoned and chopped, 
 one-quarter of an ounce each of mace, 
 cloves, and cinnamon, a grated nutmeg, 
 the peel of a lemon cut as fine as possible, 
 and half a pound of almonds, blanched 
 and beaten with orange-flower water. 
 Melt two pounds of butter in one and a 
 quarter pint of cream, but not hot ; put 
 to it one pint of sweet wine, a glass of 
 brandy and another of rose-water, with 
 the whites and yolks of twelve eggs 
 beaten apart, and half a pint of good 
 yeast. Strain this liquor by degrees into 
 the dry ingredients, beating them to- 
 gether a full hour ; then butter the hoop 
 or pan, and bake it in a moderate oven 
 <br at least four hours. As you put in 
 the batter, throw in plenty of citron, 
 lemon, and orange candy. 
 
 If you ice the cake, when it is nearly 
 cold pour the icing over, and return it 
 to the oven, where it should be left all 
 night, or until it becomes cold ; but if 
 the oven be warm, keep it near the mouth, 
 and the door open, lest the color be spoil- 
 ed ; or the icing may be left until the 
 next morning. 
 
 1464. PLUM NEW ENGLAND WEDDING 
 CAKE. 
 
 One pound of dr/ flour, one pound of 
 sweet butter, one pound of sugar, twelve 
 eggs, two pounds of raisins, (the sultana 
 raisins are the best,) two pounds of cur- 
 rants, as much spice as you please. A 
 glass of wine, one of brandy, and a pound 
 of citron. Mix the butter and sugar as 
 for pound cake. Sift the spice, and beat 
 the eggs very light. Put in the fruit last, 
 stirring it in gradually. It should be well 
 floured. If necessary add more flour 
 after the fruit is in. Butter sheets of 
 paper, and line the inside of one large 
 pan, or two smaller ones. Lay in some 
 slices of citron, then a layer of the mix- 
 ture, then of the citron, and so on till the 
 pan is full. This cake requires a toler- 
 ably hot and steady oven, and will need 
 baking four or five hours, according to 
 its thickness. It will be better to let it 
 cool gradually in the oven. Ice it when 
 thoroughly cold. 
 
 1465.-FKOSTING CAKES. 
 
 Allow for the white of one egg nine 
 heaping teaspoonfuls of double-refined 
 sugar, and one of nice starch. The 
 sugar and starch should be pounded 
 and sifted through a very fine sieve. 
 Beat the whites of eggs to a stiff" froth, 
 so that you can turn the plate upside 
 down, without the eggs falling from it 
 then stir in the sugar gradually with 
 a wooden spoon stir it ten or fifteen 
 minutes without any cessation then add 
 a teaspoonful of lemon juice, (vinegar 
 will answer, but is not as nice,) put ia 
 
476 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 sufficient rose-water to flavor it. If you 
 wish to color it pink, stir in a few grains 
 of cochineal powder, or rose pink ; if you 
 wish to have it of a blue tinge, add a 
 little of what is called powder blue. Lay 
 the frosting on the cake with a knife, 
 soon after it is taken from the oven 
 smooth it over, and let it remain in a cool 
 place till hard. To frost a common-sized 
 loaf of cake, allow the white of one egg, 
 and half of another. 
 
 1466. SMALL PLUM CAKE. 
 
 One pound and a half of raisins, one 
 pound and a half of currants, half a pound 
 of butter, half a pound of flour, five eggs, 
 half a teacup of molasses, half a pound of 
 sugar, half a pound of citron, one gill of 
 brandy, spice to taste, three nutmegs. 
 
 Cake Monld, with Cylinder. 
 
 1467. GEEMAN SUGAR CAKES. 
 
 Blend well with the fingers six ounces 
 of good butter, with a pound of fine 
 flour, working it quite into crumbs ; add 
 a few grains of salt, one pound of dry 
 sifted sugar, a table-spoonful of the best 
 cinnamon hi very fine powder, and a 
 large teaspoonful of spices : to these the 
 grated rinds of three sound fresh lemons 
 can be added, or riot, at pleasure. Make 
 these ingredients into a paste, with the 
 yolks of five eggs, and about four table- 
 spoonfuls of white wine, or with one or 
 two more in addition, if required, as this 
 must be regulated by the size of the 
 eggs : half of very thick cream and half 
 of wine are sometimes used for them. 
 Roll the mixture into balls, flatten them 
 to something less than three-quarters of 
 an inch thick, and bake them in a mod- 
 
 erate oven from fifteen to twenty min- 
 utes. Loosen them from the baking- 
 sheets which should be lightly floured 
 before they are laid on by passing a 
 knife under them, turn them over, and 
 when they are quite cold, stow them in 
 a dry, close-shutting canister. The Ger- 
 mans make three incisions on the top of 
 each cake with the point of a knife, and 
 lay spikes of split almonds in them. 
 
 1468. BEIDE CAKE. 
 
 Wash two pounds and a half of .fresh 
 butter in plain water first, and then in 
 rose-water ; beat the butter to a cream ; 
 beat twenty eggs, yolks and whites sep- 
 arately, half an hour each, Have ready 
 two pounds and a half of the finest flour, 
 well dried and kept hot, likewise one 
 pound and a half of sugar pounded and 
 sifted, one ounce of spice in fine powder, 
 three pounds of currants nicely cleaned 
 and dry, half a pound of almonds blanch- 
 ed, and three-quarters of a pound of 
 sweetmeats cut, not too thin. Let all be 
 kept by the fire, mix all the dry ingre- 
 dients, pour the eggs strained to the 
 butter, but beat the whites of the eggs 
 to a strong froth ; mix half a pint of 
 sweet wine with the same quantity of 
 brandy, pour it to the butter and eggs, 
 mix well, then have all the dry things 
 put in by degrees; beat them very 
 thoroughly you can hardly do it too 
 much. Having half a pound of stoned 
 jar-raisins chopped as fine as possible, 
 mix them carefully, so that there should 
 be no lump, and add a teacupful of 
 orange-flower water ; beat the ingredients 
 together a full hour at least. Have a 
 hoop well buttered ; take a white paper, 
 doubled and buttered, and put in the pan 
 round the edge-; do not fill it more than 
 three parts with batter, as space should 
 3e allowed for rising. Bake in a quick 
 oven. It will require full three hours, 
 [n making cakes of a larger size, put at 
 :he rate of eight eggs to every pound of 
 
CAKE. 
 
 477 
 
 flour, and other ingredients in the same 
 proportion. 
 
 The cake must be covered with an 
 icing. 
 
 1469. QUEEN CAKE. 
 
 Mix one pound of dried flour, the same 
 of sifted sugar and of washed currants. 
 "Wash one pound of butter in rose-water, 
 beat it well, then mix with it eight eggs, 
 yolks and whites beaten separately, and 
 put in the dry ingredients by degrees ; 
 beat the whole an hour ; butter little tins, 
 teacups, or saucers^ filling them only half 
 full. Sift a little fine sugar over just as 
 you put them into the oven. 
 
 1470. PLAIN FKUIT CAKE. 
 
 One loaf of bread, half a cup of butter, 
 and half a cupful of sugar, half do. of 
 molasses, half do. of buttermilk, half do. 
 of currants, one do. of raisins, half do. 
 citron, three eggs, one teaspoonful salera- 
 tus. Season to taste ; brandy if you 
 choose. 
 
 1471. -ALMOND CAKE. 
 
 Blanch half a pound of sweet, and 
 three ounces of bitter almonds pound 
 them to a paste in a mortar with orange- 
 flower water add half a pound of sifted 
 loaf sugar, and a little brandy whisk 
 separately, for half an hour, the whites 
 and yolks of twenty eggs, and the yolks 
 to the almonds and sugar, and then stir 
 in the whites, and beat them all well to- 
 gether. Butter a tin pan, sift bread- 
 raspings over it, put the cake into it, 
 over the top of which strew sifted loaf- 
 sugar. Bake it in a quick oven for half 
 or three-quarters of an hour. 
 
 1472. HONEY CAKE. 
 
 One pound and a half of dried and 
 sifted flour, three-quarters of a pound of 
 honey, half a pound of finely pounded 
 loaf sugar, a quarter of a pound of citron. 
 
 and half an ounce of orange-peel cut 
 small ; of pounded ginger and cinnamon 
 three-quarters of an ounce. Melt the 
 sugar with the honey, and mix in the 
 other ingredients ; roll out the paste, 
 and cut it into small cakes of any form. 
 
 1473. COCOA-NUT CAKES. 
 
 Take equal weights of grated cocoa- 
 nut and powdered white sugar, (the 
 brown part of the cocoa-nut should be 
 cut off before grating it,) add the whites 
 of eggs beaten to a stiff froth in the 
 proportion of half a dozen to a pound 
 each of cocoa-nut and sugar. There 
 should be just eggs enough to wet up 
 the whole stiff. Drop the mixture on 
 buttered plates, in parcels of the size 
 of a cent, several inches apart. Bake 
 them immediately in a moderately warm 
 oven. 
 
 1474 SAVOY CAKES. 
 
 Beat eight eggs to a froth the whites 
 and yolks should be beaten separately, 
 then mixed together, and a pound of 
 powdered white sugar stirred in gradu- 
 ally. Beat the 'whole well together, for 
 eight or ten minutes, then add the grated 
 rind of a fresh lemon, and half the juice, 
 a pound of sifted flour, a couple of table- 
 spoonfuls of coriander seed. Drop this 
 mixture by the large spoonful on but- 
 tered baking plates, several inches apart, 
 sift white sugar over them, and bake 
 them immediately in a quick oven. 
 
 1475. SPONGE CAKE. 
 
 Take the weight of ten eggs in pow- 
 dered loaf sugar, beat it to a froth with 
 the yolks of twelve eggs, put in the 
 grated rind of a fresh lemon, leaving out 
 the white part add half the juice. Beat 
 the whites of twelve eggs to a stiff froth, 
 and mix them with the sugar and butter. 
 Stir the whole without any cessation for 
 fifteen minutes, then stir in gradually 
 
478 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 the weight of six eggs in sifted flour. 
 As soon as the flour is well mixed in. 
 turn the cake into pans lined with but- 
 tered paper bake it immediately is a 
 quick, but not a furiously hot oven. It 
 will bake in the course of twenty minutes. 
 If it bakes too fast, cover it with thick 
 paper. 
 
 1476. POUND CAKE. 
 
 Mix a pound of sugar with a pound of 
 butter. When worked white, stir in the 
 yolk of eight eggs, beaten to a froth, then 
 the whites. Add a pound of sifted flour, 
 and mace or nutmeg to the taste. If 
 you wish to have your cake particularly 
 nice, stir in, just before you put it into 
 the pans, a quarter of a pound of citron, 
 or almonds blanched and powdered fine 
 in rose-water, and a glass of brandy. 
 
 147T.-JUMBLE3. 
 
 Stir together, till of a light color, a 
 pound of sugar and half the weight of 
 butter then add eight eggs, beaten to a 
 froth, essence of lemon, or rose-water, to 
 the taste, and flour to make them suffi- 
 ciently stiff to roll out. Roll them out 
 in powdered sugar, about half an inch 
 thick, cut it into strips about half an 
 inch wide, and four inches long, join the 
 ends together, so as to form rings, lay 
 them on flat tins that have been buttered 
 and bake them in a quick oven. 
 
 1478. NEW- YEAE'S COOKIES. 
 
 Weigh out a pound of sugar, three- 
 quarters of a pound of butter stir them 
 to a cream, then add three beaten eggs, 
 a grated nutmeg, two table-spoonfuls of 
 caraway seed, and a pint of flour. Dis- 
 solve a teaspoonful of saleratus in a tea- 
 cup of milk, strain and mix it with half 
 a teacup of cider, and stir it into the 
 cookies then add flour to make them 
 sufficiently stiff to roll out. Bake them 
 as soon as cut into cakes, in a quick oven, 
 till a light brown, 
 
 1479. NEW TOEK CUP CAKE. 
 One cup butter, two of sugar, three of 
 flour, one of milk or cream ; four eggs, 
 a wine-glass of brandy a nutmeg grated, 
 a teaspoonful of soda, two of cream of 
 tartar. Dissolve the soda in the milk 
 rub the cream of tartar dry in the flour. 
 
 1480. WASHINGTON CAKE. 
 
 One and three-quarter pounds flour, 
 one and a quarter sugar, three-quarters 
 of a pound of butter, four eggs, two tea- 
 spoonfuls of cream of tartar, one of 
 soda, half a pint of milk, two pounds 
 raisins, two glasses of brandy, one nut- 
 meg, spice to taste. 
 
 1481. GINGEE WAFEES. 
 
 Three cups sugar, two of butter, one 
 of milk, three table-spoonfuls of ginger, 
 two teaspoonfuls of soda in the milk ; 
 flour enough^ to make it a dough. Roll 
 it very thin, and bake in cakes. 
 
 1482. INDIAN CORN CAKE. 
 
 One pint of milk, half a pound In- 
 dian-meal, two eggs ; two ounces butter, 
 half a teaspoonful of soda, a whole one 
 of salt. Bake three-quarters of an hour. 
 
 1483. SOYEE'S ST. JAMES'S CAKE. 
 
 Put one pound of very fresh butter in 
 a good-sized kitchen basin, and with the 
 right hand work it up well till it forms 
 quite a white cream ; then add one 
 pound powdered sugar, mix well, add 
 ten eggs by degrees ; put to dry a pound 
 and a quarter of flour, which mix as 
 lightly as possible with it ; blanch and 
 cut in slices two ounces of pistachios, 
 two ditto of green preserved angelica, 
 add two liquor glasses of noyeau, two 
 drops of essence of vanilla ; whip a gill 
 and a half of cream till very thick, mix 
 lightly with a wooden spoon, have a mould, 
 put ic in, and send to the baker; it will 
 
CAKE. 
 
 479 
 
 take about one hour and a quarter to 
 bake. 
 
 1484 SOYEE'S TUEBAN OF ALMOND 
 CAKE ICED. 
 
 This is a very good and useful second 
 course remove. Make half a pound of 
 puff paste, give it nine rolls, rolling it 
 the last time to the thickness of a penny- 
 piece, have ready blanched and chopped 
 a pound of sweet almonds, which put in 
 a basin with half a pound of powdered 
 sugar and the whites of two eggs, or 
 little more if required ; spread it over 
 the paste the thickness of a shilling, and 
 with a knife cut the paste into pieces 
 two inches and a half in length and 
 nearly one in breadth, place them upon 
 a baking-sheet, and bake nicely a very 
 light brown color, in a moderate oven ; 
 dress them on a stiff border of any kind 
 of stiff jam or marmalade, so as to form 
 a large crown, according to the size you 
 require it ; then fill the interior with va- 
 nilla cream, or any other, iced, but not 
 too hard, and bring it up to a point ; the 
 cake may be cut into any shape you 
 fancy, but never make them too large. 
 
 1485. CIDEE CAKE. 
 
 Cider cake is very good, to be baked 
 in small loaves. One pound and a half 
 of flour, half a pound of sugar, quarter 
 of a pound of butter, half a pint of cider, 
 one teaspoonful of pearlash; spice to 
 your taste. Bake till it turns easily in 
 the pans. I should think about half an 
 hour. 
 
 I486. THE HOUSEWIFE'S CHEISTMAS 
 CAKE. 
 
 Take two pounds of pounded sugar- 
 candy, two pounds of flour, two pounds 
 of butter, thirty-six eggs, four pounds of 
 currants, a pound of raisins stoned and 
 chopped, half a pound of almonds blanch- 
 ed and chopped, half a pound of citron, 
 a pound of candied orange-peel, the same 
 
 of candied lemon-peel, a large nutmeg- 
 pounded, half an ounce of powdered all- 
 spice, half an ounce of powdered mace, 
 ginger, cinnamon, and coriander, and half 
 a pint of brandy. 
 
 All the ingredients should be well 
 dried, the white of the eggs well beaten 
 up separately from the yolks, the butter 
 stirred and beaten almost to a cream ; 
 then add the rest gradually, taking care 
 they are well beaten and mixed. Have 
 ready a large tin, well lined with butter- 
 ed paper, pour in the cake, and bake in 
 a slow oven for at least four hours. 
 Smaller proportions may be adopted. 
 
 1487. COENSTAECH CAKE. 
 
 Half a pound of sugar, four ounces of 
 butter, five eggs, one teaspoonful cream 
 of tartar, half a teaspoonful of soda, 
 half a pound of cornstarch. half a gill of 
 sweet milk. 
 
 1488. SHOET CAKE. 
 
 Three pounds of flour, half a pound of 
 butter, half a pound of lard, a teaspoon- 
 ful of soda, two of cream of tartar j mix 
 with cold milk. 
 
 For Strawberry Cake, open these when 
 first baked, take out some of the crumb, 
 and fill the inside with ripe strawberries, 
 sugared ; close and bake the cakes five 
 minutes longer. 
 
 1489.-SUGAE CAKE. 
 
 Three pints of flour, a table-spoonful 
 of butter, half a pound of sugar, one 
 egg, half a teaspoonful of soda, a tea- 
 spoonful of cream of tartar, milk enough 
 to make a dough, roll it thin and cut in 
 squares. 
 
 1490. EAILEOAD CAKE. 
 
 A pint of flour, thre.e eggs, a teaspoon- 
 ful of cream of tartar, half a teaspoon- 
 ful of soda, a table-spoonful of butter, a 
 teaspoonful of sugar ; bake the batter in 
 a square pan twenty minutes. 
 
480 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 1491. JELLY CAKE. 
 
 Bake sponge cake or cup cake in cir- 
 cular pans, half an inch thick; when 
 cold, put pulp of fruit or marmalade be- 
 tween them ; six or eight layers of each. 
 
 1492.-- LADY CAKE. 
 
 One pound of flour, one of loaf sugar, 
 half one of butter, the whites of twelve 
 eggs, almonds pounded, rose-water. 
 
 1493.-CHOCOLATE CAKE. 
 
 Grate chocolate ; add whites of six 
 eggs and loaf sugar ; drop it on buttered 
 paper, and bake as macaroons. 
 
 1494 NOURMAHAL CAKE. 
 Cut four slices of sponge cake about 
 an inch thick and of an oval shape, but 
 each slice smaller than the others. 
 Spread a thick layer of apricot jam upon 
 the first and largest slice, and then lay 
 the next sized slice upon it ; spread the 
 second slice with apple marmalade, and 
 cover with the third size, which is to be 
 spread in like manner with strawberry 
 jam, and covered with the smallest size. 
 Press the top lightly with the hand, and 
 with a sharp knife cut away the central 
 part, so as to leave a wall about two 
 inches and a half thick, which is to be 
 trimmed outside. Mash up the part re- 
 moved from the centre, with equal parts 
 of white wine and brandy, sufficient to 
 flavor, and stir in some thick custard, 
 then pour into the center of the cake. 
 Whip the whites of two eggs into a stiff 
 froth, pour over the whole, heaping it 
 well up in the centre, and shake sifted 
 sugar thickly on, then place in a quick 
 oven until the frosting is set. A few 
 pieces of strawberry jam or any other 
 preserve placed round the bottom of the 
 dish, gives a finish* to the whole. 
 
 1495.-ICING FOR CAKES. 
 
 Beat the whites of four eggs to a solid 
 
 froth, add gradually three-quarters of a 
 pound of refined sugar pounded and sift- 
 ed ; mix in the juice of half a lemon ; 
 beat it till very light and white. The 
 cake should be cold. Place it before the 
 fire, pour over it the icing, and smooth 
 over the top and sides with a knife. It 
 might be set to dry at the mouth of a 
 cooj oven. 
 
 1496. LEMON CAKES. 
 
 Rub half a pound of butter into one 
 pound of flour and a pound of powdered 
 lump sugar, the rind and juice of one 
 lemon, three eggs, leaving out the whites 
 unless the butter be very hard. Mix all 
 together, and drop on tins in small 
 cakes. 
 
 149T. CINNAMON BISCUITS. 
 Half a pound of dry flour, one pound 
 of lump sugar, finely sifted ; one pound 
 of butter, powdered cinnamon to judg- 
 ment. The whole to be mixed with a 
 glass of brandy, or rum, then rolled 
 very thin, and baked in a quick oven. 
 
 1498. DIET BREAD. 
 
 To half a pound of sifted sugar put 
 four eggs ; beat them together for an 
 hour ; then add a quarter of a pound of 
 flour dried and sifted, with the juice of 
 half a lemon and the grated rind of a 
 whole one. Bake it in a slow oven. 
 
 1499. CURRANT CAKE. 
 Beat a pound of fresh butter to a 
 cream; take one pound and a quarter 
 of sugar, and one and a quarter pounds of 
 currants washed and picked, and beat up 
 the whites and yolks of eight eggs ; put 
 in the sugar by degrees, then a pound of 
 flour and currants ; add a gill of brandy, 
 some candied orange and citron ; beat the 
 mixture till very light, and bake it in a 
 pan. 
 
 1500. SEED CAKES. 
 
 Beat one pound of butter to a cream, 
 
CAKES. 
 
 481 
 
 adding, gradually, a quarter of a pound 
 of sifted sugar, beating both together. 
 Have ready the yolks of eighteen eggs, 
 and the whites of ten, beaten separately ; 
 mix in the whites first and then the 
 yolks, and beat the whole for ten min- 
 utes ; add two grated nutmegs, one pound 
 and a half of flour, and mix them very 
 gradually with the other ingredients. 
 When the oven is ready, beat in three 
 ounces of picked carraway-seed. To 
 two pounds of flour add two ounces of 
 butter rubbed in, half a pound of sugar, 
 one ounce of carraway-seed, half an 
 ounce of ground coriander-seed, half a 
 teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, and a 
 table-spoonful of arrowroot; mix the 
 whole well together, and make a stiff 
 paste with warm milk ; cut into thin 
 cakes, and prick over with a fork ; bake 
 slowly. 
 
 1501. PITCAITHLY BANNOCK. 
 
 Dry before the fire one pound fine 
 flour ; then melt half a pound of butter ; 
 then mix with the flour two ounces of 
 almonds thinly sliced; two ounces of 
 orange peel, two ounces of sugared carra- 
 ways, two ounces pounded sugar, then 
 pour on these ingredients the melted 
 butter ; knead all together well ; put the 
 bannock in a slow oven, and bake it an 
 hour. 
 
 1502. TO MAKE BANBUEY CAKES. 
 
 Roll out the paste about half an inch 
 thick, and cut it into pieces, then roll 
 again till each piece becomes twice the 
 size ; put some Banbury meat in the 
 middle of one side, fold the other over it, 
 and pinch it up into a somewhat oval 
 shape, flatten it with your hand at the 
 top, letting the seam be quite at the bot- 
 tom, rub the tops over with the white of 
 an egg laid on with a brush, and dust 
 loaf-sugar over them. Bake in a moder- 
 ate oven. The meat fbr this cake is made 
 thus : beat up a quarter of a pound of 
 
 butter until it becomes in the state of 
 cream, then mix with it half a pound of 
 candied orange and lemon-peel cut fine, 
 one pound of currants, a quarter of an 
 ounce of ground cinnamon, and a quarter 
 of an ounce of allspice ; mix all well to- 
 gether, and keep in a jar, till wanted for 
 
 1503. PETS DE NONNE. 
 
 Put water or cream in a stewpan with 
 sugar, a little salt, and flavoring of 
 orange-flower water ; when near boiling 
 shake flour in with one hand, and stir 
 with the other, till the paste is thin and 
 well done ; take it off the fire, and break 
 an egg in ; turn and mix, adding a second 
 egg ; add eggs till the paste is thick and 
 soft, stirring and beating it. Have butter 
 boiling hot in a frying pan, drop in the 
 paste by spoonfuls, let each be the size of 
 a walnut, take them out, and keep them 
 hot till all are done ; sift sugar over them, 
 or serve sweet sauce of wine, butter, 
 sugar, and grated nutmeg. 
 
 1504.-BISCUITS. 
 
 Those of the common sort are made in 
 various ways. For a large quantity beat 
 up eight eggs during nearly half an hour, 
 then put in one pound of white powder- 
 ed sugar, with the grated peel of a lemon, 
 and whisk that again for the same time, 
 or until it appears well mixed ; after 
 which make it into a batter with one 
 pound of flour, and a little rose-water. 
 
 Bake the dough in tins, or on papers, 
 and either sugar them or put in carra- 
 ways at your pleasure. 
 
 Or : One pound of flour, half a pound 
 of loaf-sugar, and a quarter of a pound of 
 butter; rub all together; wet it with 
 one egg beaten up in half a teacupful of 
 milk, and roll it out thin. 
 
 1505. GOLD AND SILVER CAKE 
 Is made by using the whites of the eggs 
 
482 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 for the latter, and the yolks for the firs 
 The other proportions like pound cake. 
 
 1506. FEANGIPANE 
 
 Is a French paste, made with two or thre 
 eggs put into a saucepan with one table 
 spoonful of flour, moistened with a little 
 milk, and placed on the fire for abou 
 ten minutes j taking care to stir the ma 
 terials continually, to prevent them fron 
 sticking to the pan. The substance maj 
 either be used as a paste for tartlets, o 
 eaten as cakes, if made with sugar anc 
 macaroons. 
 
 1507. LA GALETTE 
 
 Is in great favor among the Parisians 
 who usually eat it with sweetmeats, bu1 
 vary it in point of richness by the 
 greater or less quantity of cream and 
 butter employed in making it up. It is 
 thus made : 
 
 Take one pound each of butter and 
 flour, a little salt, and two eggs ; knead 
 the whole together into a paste, roll it 
 to not more than an inch in thickness, 
 and make it the size of a dessert-plate. 
 Then put it into the oven for a quarter 
 of an hour ; take it out ; beat up two 
 eggs with a little cream and some salt ; 
 pour it over the cake, and return it to 
 the oven to bake for another quarter of 
 an hour ; or, if you please, ornament the 
 back with candied citron. 
 
 1508. ISLE OF WIGHT CKACKNELS. 
 
 Mix with a quart of flour half a nut- 
 meg grated, the yolks of four eggs 
 beaten, with four spoonfuls of rose-water, 
 into a stiff paste, with cold water ; then 
 roll in one pound of butter, and make 
 them into a cracknel shape ; put them 
 into a kettle of boiling water, and boil 
 them till they swim ; then take them out 
 and put them into cold water] when 
 hardened, lay them out to dry, and bake 
 them on tin plates. 
 
 1509. CKACKNELS. 
 
 Half a pound of flour, half a pound of 
 sugar, a quarter of a pound of butter 
 two table-spoonfuls of rose-water, a little 
 salt and rice, and eggs 'well beaten. Mix 
 together twenty minutes; roll and cut 
 into shapes. Rub a baking sheet with 
 butter, and when baked, wash them with 
 white of egg. 
 
 1510. FEENCH BEEAD. 
 
 Commence as for common bread, but 
 use milk instead of water. When it is 
 light, add two quarts warm milk, salt 
 half a pound of butter, and one ounce 
 sifted loaf sugar ; knead well and let it 
 rise again. Make it into rolls ; put them 
 in a warm place half an hour, then bake 
 in a quick oven. 
 
 1511. KEINGLES. 
 
 Beat well the yolks of eight and 
 whites of two eggs, and mix with four 
 ounces of butter just warmed, and with 
 this knead one pound of flour and four 
 Dunces of sugar to a paste. Roll into 
 thick biscuits ; prick them, and bake on 
 tin plates. 
 
 GINGERBREAD. 
 
 This is amongst the most ancient 
 ;pecies of cake known throughout Eng- 
 and and the north of Europe. It is the 
 delight of children ; in Holland it is the 
 :ommon accompaniment of the "schnaps," 
 and in Ghent there are shops famous for 
 t. The following are selected from 
 imongst the numerous ways of making 
 t in this country. 
 
 >12. SOFT GINGEEBBEAD (from a Lady ot 
 
 New York). 
 
 Three cups molasses, one of butter, 
 ne of milk, ginger, a table- spoonful of 
 aleratus, and flour enough to make it 
 he stiffness of pound cake. 
 
 Another .-Half a pound of butter, a 
 
CAKES. 
 
 483 
 
 quart of molasses, eight eggs, four table- 
 spoonfuls sifted ginger, two teaspoon- 
 fuls saleratus, allspice, and flour enough 
 to make it stiff as pound cake. 
 
 1513.-HARD GINGERBREAD. 
 
 Eub half a pound of butter into one 
 pound of flour ; then rub in half a pound 
 of sugar, two table-spoonfuls of ginger, 
 and a spoonful of rose-water; work it 
 well ; roll out, and bake in flat pans in a 
 moderate oven. It will take about half 
 an hour to bake. This gingerbread will 
 keep good some time. 
 
 1514 GIN GEEBRE AD-NUTS. 
 
 Mix half a pound of flour, the same 
 quantity of butter and of brown sugar, 
 with three ounces of ginger, a teaspoon- 
 ful of carbonate of soda rubbed in the 
 flour, with as much molasses as will make 
 it into a paste. Roll it out thin, and 
 bake it for about twenty minutes in a 
 slow oven. 
 
 1515. PASSOVER CAKES. 
 
 Make a stiff paste with biscuit-powder, 
 milk, and water ; add a little butter, the 
 yolk of an egg, and a little white sugar. 
 Cut into pieces, mould with the hand, 
 and bake in a brisk oven : they should 
 not be too thin. 
 
 1516.-SCOTCH SHORT-BREAD. 
 
 To four pounds of flour take two of 
 butter, half a pound of moist sugar, 
 quarter of a pound of citron, and the 
 same of almonds, the latter blanched, 
 and all cut small. Mix the sugar and 
 fruit well with the flour, then work it up 
 with the butter, cold, till it is smooth 
 and compact, but it will take a long 
 time; divide into four or more pieces, 
 and roll out each piece into an oblong 
 cake, having previously floured the table 
 well. Prick the top with a steel fork, 
 strew some orange and citron cut thin, 
 
 and some large caraway-comfits, press 
 them in with the roller, then pinch round 
 the edges, put the cakes in floured tins ; 
 bake for twenty minutes. If the cake 
 rise after the pressing of the finger, it is 
 sufficiently done. 
 
 Or : One pound each of butter and 
 sifted sugar, two pounds of flour, eight 
 ounces of sweet and four ounces of bit- 
 ter Almonds, a small piece of cinnamon, 
 all pounded, and a glass of brandy. 
 Soften the butter before the fire, then 
 rub in the flour, and make it into a paste ; 
 roll it out half an inch thick, and bake it 
 on a tin in a slow oven, as it should be 
 of a pale color. 
 
 1517. POTATO CHEESECAKES. 
 
 Boil six ounces of potatoes, and four 
 of lemon-peel, beat tjie latter in a marble 
 mortar with a quarter of a pound of 
 sugar, then add the same quantity of 
 butter, melted in a little cream, and the 
 potatoes beaten : mix well, and let it 
 stand to cool ; put crust in patty-pans, 
 rather more than half fill them, sift 
 some sugar over, and bake half an hour 
 in a quick oven. 
 
 Tipsy Cake. Put a sponge-cake into 
 a deep glass dish, pour round it a glass 
 of brandy and some raisin-wine, and let 
 it soak it up ; then strew sifted sugar 
 over it, pour a thick custard into the 
 dish, and ornament the top with blanch- 
 ed almonds split and put thick. 
 
 1518. DOUGHNUTS. 
 
 Set a sponge with a pound of flour, 
 milk and good yeast ; rub nearly half a 
 pound of butter into another pound of 
 flour, and add half a pound of sugar, 
 with grated nutmeg and spice, and mix 
 with it three beaten eggs ; mix it with 
 the light sponge, and more milk if neces- 
 sary, and set it to rise. When it is per- 
 fectly light, roll out the dough on a 
 pasteboard, cut it into slips, double and 
 
484: 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 twist them up, and fry them in boiling 
 lard. 
 
 For Crullers Allow to the flour more 
 butter and sugar, and six eggs, without 
 yeast, and fry as before, making smaller 
 cakes. 
 
 1519. BOSTON CEEAM CAKES. 
 
 Take half a pint of cream from a quart 
 of milk, and boil it with vanilla and. cin- 
 namon ; strain and mix it with the rest 
 of the milk; when cold, add the yolks 
 of twelve eggs and a quarter of a 
 pound of loaf-sugar, and bake the custard 
 in a bain-marie; have ready a batter 
 made of half a pound of flour and the 
 same of butter, in a pint of milk, with 
 eight eggs, and bake it in buttered deep 
 patt} r -pans, not scolloped ; when brown- 
 ed, open a slit in the side of each while 
 hot, and put in with a spoon as much 
 of the custard as it will hold ; close the 
 slit smoothly, and set the cakes away. 
 
 1520. SPANISH PUFFS. 
 
 Boil three-quarters of a pint of milk 
 with one ounce of butter, six ounces of 
 flour, mixed well in the hot milk flavor 
 with vanilla. Drop about the size* of a 
 walnut, and lightly bake. When done, 
 open gently at the side and fill with pre- 
 serve. 
 
 1521. ALMACK. 
 
 Plums, pears, and apples, each two 
 pounds ; pare, core, and stew together 
 rub through a sieve. Add half a pound 
 of moist sugar; boil until it is quite 
 stiff; spread on dishes to dry. When 
 set, cut in squares and put by for use. 
 
 1522. KISSES. 
 
 Beat the whites of four eggs till they 
 stand alone. Then beat in, gradually, 
 a pound of finely-powdered sugar, a tea- 
 spoonful at a time. Add eight drops of 
 the essence of lemon, and beat the whole 
 Tery hard. 
 
 Lay a wet sheet of paper on the bot- 
 tom of a square tin pan. Drop on it, at 
 equal distance, small teaspoonfuls of stiff 
 currant jelly. Put a little of the beaten 
 egg and sugar at first, under the currant 
 jelly. With a large spoon, pile some of 
 the beaten white of egg and sugar, on 
 each lump of jelly, so as to cover it en- 
 tirely. Drop on the mixture as evenly 
 as possible, so as to make the kisses of a 
 round, smooth shape. 
 
 Set them in a cool oven, and as soon 
 as they are colored, they are done. Then 
 take them out, and place the two bot- 
 toms together. Lay them lightly on a 
 sieve, and dry them in a cool oven, till 
 the two bottoms stick fast together so as 
 to form one ball or oval. 
 
 1523. MACAKOONS. 
 
 Blanch and skin half a pound of sweet 
 almonds, dry them well in your screen, 
 then put them into a mortar with a 
 pound and a half of lump sugar, pound 
 well together, and pass the whole through 
 a wire sieve ; put it again into a mortar, 
 with the whites of two eggs, mix well 
 together with the pestle, then add the 
 white of another egg, proceeding thus 
 until you have used the whites of about 
 eight eggs and made a softish paste, when 
 lay them out at equal distances apart, 
 upon wafer-paper, in pieces nearly the 
 size 'of walnuts, place some strips of al- 
 monds upon the top, sift sugar over, and 
 bake in a slow oven of a yellowish brown 
 color ; they are done when set quite firm 
 through. 
 
 1524. EATAFIAS. 
 
 Ratafias are made similar to the above, 
 but deducting two ounces of sweet, and 
 adding two ounces of bitter almonds ; 
 they are laid out in much smaller cakes 
 upon common paper, and baked in a 
 much warmer oven ; when cold, they 
 may be taken off the paper with the 
 greatest ease. 
 
CAKES CHEESECAKES. 
 
 485 
 
 These cakes arfe very serviceable in 
 making a great many second-course 
 dishes. 
 
 1525 RICE CAKES. 
 
 Take eight yolks and four whites of 
 eggs, and beat to a foam ; add six ounces 
 of powdered sugar, and the peel of one 
 lemon grated ; then stir in half a pound 
 of ground rice, and beat all together for 
 half an hour. Put it into a buttered 
 tin, and bake twenty minutes. This 
 cake is recommended as very easy of di- 
 gestion. The foregoing cakes are made 
 without butter, and therefore are not 
 apt to prove injurious. 
 
 1526. BOLA D' AMOUR LOYE CAKES. 
 
 Take the yolks of eggs, as many as 
 are required for the dish (about twelve), 
 and beat them up in a pan with an equal 
 weight of sugar, the same as sponge 
 cake, using any kind of liquor or essence 
 for flavoring. When the mixture is 
 beaten up light and thick, have ready 
 some clarified butter in a stewpan, made 
 hot enough for frying. Pour the mix- 
 ture into a funnel having a small bore or 
 pipe, and let it run into the hot butter, 
 turning the hand while it is running, so 
 that it may be formed into threads all 
 over the surface of the pan. In about 
 two minutes it will be done, when it 
 .should be taken out with a skimmer, and 
 be placed on a dish for serving, garnish- 
 ing it with any kind of preserve, and 
 serve cold. 
 
 Another way is, to beat up the eggs 
 with some liquor, and run it into some 
 boiling syrup at the blow. 
 
 1527.-EXCELLENT CHEESECAKES, KNOWN 
 AT RICHMOND AS "MAIDS OF HONOR." 
 
 Make some milk lukewarm, then put 
 a spoonful of rennet, stir it well through 
 a cheese-cloth to get rid of the whey ; 
 then to half a pound of curd put six 
 ounces of butter, four yolks of eggs, and 
 31 
 
 sugar and nutmeg to the taste. Mix all 
 the ingredients well, line pattypans 
 with a puff paste, fill them with the mix- 
 ture, arid bake in a quick oven. The 
 cheesecakes may be flavored with lemon 
 for a variety. 
 
 1528. CHEESECAKES. 
 
 Take the curd of three quarts of milk, 
 a pound of currants, twelve ounces of 
 sugar, a quarter of an ounce of cinna- 
 mon, the same quantity of nutmeg, and 
 the peel of a lemon chopped to a paste ; 
 the yolks of eight and the whites of six 
 eggs, a pint of scalded cream and a pint 
 of brandy ; mix them all together, put 
 a light thin puff-paste into your patty- 
 pans and half fill them. 
 
 1529. SOYER'S QUEEN VICTORIA'S CAKE. 
 
 To three-quarters of a pound of flour, 
 add half an ounce of yeast, mixed with 
 warm water until forming a stiff paste, 
 and place it in a stewpan, and let it 
 stand by the fire or oven until well risen, 
 during which time the butter must be 
 well worked until soft, adding a quarter 
 of a pound of flour more and five eggs 
 gradually, and beat them well together ; 
 when done, if the leaven is well risen, 
 add to it one and a half pounds of rai- 
 sins, with a little salt and sugar ; let it 
 stand in the mould for a short time, and 
 bake it in a slow oven. ** 
 
 1580. ELETHERIAN PINE APPLE CAKE. 
 
 Take three-quarters of a pound of pine 
 apple, not over ripe, peel it ; place half a 
 pound of white sugar in a pan, with half 
 pint of water, boil till a thick syrup ; cut 
 the pine in small dice of a quarter of an 
 inch, and pour the syrup over; and, 
 when nearly cold, add to it the dough, 
 which has previously been mixed with 
 three-quarters of a pound of butter and 
 two eggs ; let it rise in a hoop as above, 
 and bake in the same way : a glass of 
 rum may be added. 
 
486 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 1581.-BABA. 
 
 Take three pounds of flour, one-quar- 
 ter of which set apart and mix into dough 
 with a gill of good yeast and a little 
 warm water; cover it close in a stew- 
 pan and set it by the fire to rise ; when 
 you see the dough rise and nearly ready, 
 form the other parts of the flour in a 
 circle on the table, in which put half an 
 ounce of salt, one ounce of sugar, a half 
 pound of butter and twelve eggs and a 
 table-spoon of saffron ; mix the butter 
 and eggs well together before you put it 
 to the flour ; when it is all mixed spread 
 it out and put the dough to it and knead 
 it well. When the yeast is nearly mixed 
 in, add two pounds of raisins stoned, 
 a few at a time, have ready two moulds 
 buttered, and put three parts full of dough 
 and set in a warm place to rise very 
 gently ; when raised to the top of the 
 mould bake in a hot oven ; a brick oven is 
 best. 
 
 1582.-CHEESECAKE8, APPLE. 
 
 Take twelve apples, pare, core, and 
 boil in sufficient water to wash them; 
 beat them very smooth ; add six yolks of 
 eggs, the juice of two lemons, some grated 
 lemon peel, half a pound of fresh butter, 
 beaten to a cream, and sweetened with 
 powdered sugar ; beat in with the apples, 
 bake in a.tpuff crust, and serve open. 
 
 1583. CHEESECAKES, ALMOND. 
 
 Take four ounces of blanched almonds, 
 mixed with a few bitter, beat them with 
 a spoonful of water, add four ounces of 
 powdered sugar, a spoonful of cream, and 
 the whites of two eggs well beaten ; mix 
 them quickly, put into small pattypans, 
 and bake for twenty minutes in a mod- 
 erately warm oven. 
 
 1534 CHEESECAKES, BEEAD 
 
 Take a French roll, slice it very thin, 
 pour over it some boiling cream, allow it 
 
 to cool and then addfr six or eight eggs 
 half a pound of butter melted, a spoonfu. 
 of brandy, half a pound of currants, 
 some nutmeg, and a little sugar; put 
 them in puff-paste, the same as other 
 cheesecakes. 
 
 1535. CHEESECAKES, CITEON. 
 
 Take a pint of cream, boil it, and when 
 cold mix it with two eggs well beaten ; 
 then boil them together, until they be- 
 come a curd. Put in a few blanched al- 
 monds beaten in a mortar with a little 
 orange-flower water, and some Naples 
 biscuits and green citron chopped very 
 small. Sweeten, and bake in tins. 
 
 1536.-CHEESECAKES, LEMON. 
 Take four ounces of sifted lump sugar 
 and the same quantity of butter ; melt 
 them slowly, add the yolks of two and 
 the white of one egg, a sponge cake, 
 some blanched almonds, the rind of three 
 lemons shred fine, and the juice of one 
 lemon and a half, and three spoonfuls of 
 brandy ; mix all well together, then make 
 a paste with eight ounces of flour, and 
 six ounces of butter, mixing four ounces 
 of it with the flour first, then wet it with 
 six spoonfuls of water, and roll in the 
 remainder of the butter ; put the ingre- 
 dients to this paste, and bake it. 
 
 CUSTAKDS, CREAMS, 
 JELLIES, &c. 
 
 CUSTARD is always eaten cold, a'-d 
 either poured over fruit tarts, or served 
 up separately in custard-cups, in each of 
 which a macaroon steeped in wine, and 
 laid at the bottom, will be found a good 
 addition. 
 
 The flavoring may likewise be altered, 
 according to taste, by using a different 
 kind of essence, the name of which it 
 
CTJ6TAKDS. 
 
 487 
 
 then acquires ; as of lemon, orange, ma- 
 rashino vanilla, &c. It is almost needless 
 to say that cream or a portion of it will 
 make it richer than mere milk. 
 
 The French, mode of making it is, to 
 measure the number of cups which are 
 to be filled, and use nearly that quantity 
 of milk or cream, simmering it upon the 
 fire, until beginning to boil, with lemon- 
 peel, bay-leaves, or almonds, then adding 
 about half an ounce of powdered sugar 
 to each cup ; then take the yolk of an 
 egg to each small cup, beat them up with 
 the milk, fill the cups, place in a bain- 
 marie or vate of boiling water until the 
 custard become firm. 
 
 For boiled custard: Boil the milk 
 with the flavoring till thick enough ; pour 
 it boiling hot over beaten yolks of eggs, 
 eight to a quart ; sweeten to taste, stir 
 till cold and smooth. 
 
 1537. ARROWROOT CUSTARD. 
 
 One pint of milk, one table-spoonful 
 of arrowroot, one of sugar, boil the milk 
 with a stick of cinnamon in it, wet the 
 arrowroot with a little cold milk, add to 
 it one egg well beaten, add the sugar, stir 
 the whole into the boiling milk, flavor 
 it with vanilla, wine, or rose when nearly 
 cold. 
 
 You may flavor custards with lemon- 
 peel, vanilla, or any thing you choose, 
 and make them as rich as you like. 
 
 1538. BLANC MANGE. 
 
 Wet one ounce or four sheets of 
 Cooper's Isinglass in cold water, boil 
 one quart of milk with a stick of cinna- 
 mon in it, drain the isinglass out of the 
 water and stir it into the milk ; when dis- 
 solved, strain it through a flannel bag, 
 sweeten it, and when cold pour it into the 
 moulds. 
 
 1589. CUSTARD CREAM OF CHOCOLATE. 
 Scrape one-quarter of a pound of the 
 
 best chocolate ; pour on it a teacupful of 
 boiling water, and let it stand by the 
 fire till it has dissolved. Beat eight eggs 
 very light, omitting the whites of two. 
 Stir them by degrees into a quart of 
 cream or rich milk, alternately with the 
 melted chocolate and three table-spoon- 
 fuls of powdered white sugar. Put the 
 mixture into cups and bake it ten min- 
 utes, gend them to table cold, with 
 whipped white of egg heaped on the top 
 of each custard. 
 
 1540. COFFEE CUSTARD. 
 
 This is made by putting a quart of 
 milk on the fire, with about six ounces 
 of white sugar. In another vessel beat 
 up the yolks of ten eggs, and pour the 
 milk gradually upon them. Roast your 
 coffee (three or four ounces) till it is of 
 a very light brown color, and gives out 
 all its flavor j break it in a mortar, slight- 
 ly, and add it, while hot, to your hot 
 custard. Strain through a jelly-bag, 
 pour the cream into cups, and put them 
 to cool. Every thing depends on the 
 coffee being used whilst hot, so as to 
 catch the aroma which goes off as it 
 cools. 
 
 Or : Pour half a pint of cold water 
 on the same quantity of fresh ground 
 coffee in a French coffee-pot, press it 
 down and put on the lid. Stop the 
 mouth of the spout, and when the water 
 has filtered down, pour it off, and return 
 it to the top. to filter a second time. 
 Have a custard made with eight eggs to a 
 pint of milk, sweetened to taste. Stir in 
 the coffee, put it in custard cups, and 
 bake in a pan with water half to their 
 tops. Send cold to table. 
 
 1541. CHAMPAGNE CREAM 
 
 Is made by beating up the yolks of 
 six eggs with as much powdered sugar 
 as wil make it quite stiff so much so 
 as nearly to make the spoon stand in it. 
 
488 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 Then pour on it very gradually stirring 
 it all the time a bottle of sparkling 
 champagne : grate on it a little nutmeg, 
 and serve it to the ladies, who seldom 
 refuse a second glass. 
 
 A bottle of good cider or perry will be 
 a tolerable substitute. 
 
 1542. LECH* CREMA. 
 
 Beat up three eggs, leaving out two of 
 the whites, and add to to them gradually 
 one pint and a half of milk ; then mix 
 very carefully four table-spoonfuls of fine 
 wheat-flour, and two ounces of finely 
 powdered loaf-sugar, with grated lemon- 
 peel to give a flavor. Boil these ingre- 
 dients over a slow fire, stirring constant- 
 ly to prevent burning, until the flour is 
 quite dissolved. Prepare a shallow dish 
 with some ratafia cakes at the bottom, 
 and when the " crema" is sufficiently 
 boiled, pour it through a sieve upon the 
 cakes.* 
 
 1548. ITALIAN CREAM. 
 
 Whip together for nearly an hour a 
 quart of very thick scalded cream, a 
 quart of raw cream, the grated rind of 
 four lemons and the strained juice, with 
 ten ounces of white powdered sugar; 
 then add half a pint of sweet wine, and 
 continue to whisk it until it becomes 
 quite solid. Lay a piece of muslin in a 
 sieve, and lay the cream upon it with a 
 spoon. In twenty hours turn it carefully 
 out, but mind that it does not break. 
 Garnish it with fruit-jelly or with 
 flowers. 
 
 Another. Whip up three-quarters of 
 a pint of very rich cream to a strong 
 froth, with some finely scraped lemon- 
 peel, a squeze of the juice, half a glass 
 
 * Some finely powdered cinnamon should be 
 dusted pretty thickly over it. This delicious dish 
 Is always served up cold. The receipt was obtained 
 from the nuns of Santa Clara convent at Palmas, 
 in the island of Grand Canary. 
 
 of sweet wine, and sugar to make it 
 pleasant, but not too sweet ; lay it on a 
 sieve or in a form, and next day put it on 
 a dish, and ornament it with very light 
 puif-paste biscuits, made in tin shapes 
 the length of a finger, and about two 
 thick, over which sugar may be strewed, 
 or a little glazed with isinglass. Or you 
 may use macaroons to line the edges of 
 the dish. 
 
 1544.-CLOUTED CREAM. 
 
 Strain the milk as soon as it comes 
 from the cow into wide pans, holding 
 about six quarts each, so as to be about 
 three inches deep, and let it remain for 
 twenty-four hours ; then gently place the 
 pan upon a hot plate or slow charcoal 
 fire, which must heat it very gently, for 
 if it boils it is spoilt; as soon as the 
 cream forms a ring in the middle, re- 
 move a little with the finger, and if 
 a few bubbles rise in the place where 
 you do so, it is done, which will be in 
 half to three quarters of an hour ; re- 
 move it from the fire, and let it remain 
 twenty-four hours ; then skim it, and 
 throw a little sugar on the top. 
 
 1545. CHARLOTTE RUSSE. (Furnished for 
 this work by Mr. TAYLOR, Proprietor of Taylor's 
 splendid Establishment, Broadway, New York.) 
 
 Dissolve one ounce of isinglass in half 
 a pint of milk, and add to it when dis- 
 solved the yolks of six eggs, and half a 
 pound of white powdered sugar. 
 
 Whip up a quart of sweet cream in one 
 vessel, and the whites of six eggs in an- 
 other. 
 
 When the isinglass, &c., is nearly 
 cold, stir it gradually into the cream. 
 Then add the whites and stir up the 
 whole together. Pour it in a mould, and 
 set it on the ice for an hour. 
 
 1546. CHARLOTTE RUSSE. (Furnished by a 
 Lady of New York.) 
 
 Make a custard of four eggs, one pint of 
 
JELLY TRIFLE. 
 
 489 
 
 milk, and five table-spoonfuls of sugar ; 
 boil a vanilla bean with the milk. Dis- 
 solve half an ounce of isinglass in a tea- 
 cupful of water, put a pint of cream in a 
 tin pan, stand it over ice, and when the 
 isinglass is cold, mix it with the cream 
 and beat it to a thick froth ; pour the 
 cooled custard in and beat it all well. 
 Place lady- fingers or spongecake inside 
 the form, pour in the mixture, and leave 
 it on the ice to thicken. 
 
 1547 STEAWBEEEY CHAELOTTE. 
 
 Line a plain round mould with ripe 
 strawberries by burying the mould in 
 ice to the rim, and dipping the straw- 
 berries in calf's-foot jelly, first covering 
 the bottom with them cut in halves, the 
 cutside downwards, afterwards building 
 them up the sides, the jelly (which must 
 be cold, but not set) causing them to ad- 
 here ; when finished fill it with the cream 
 as directed for the charlotte russe, and 
 when ready to serve dip the mould in 
 warm water, and turn it out upon your 
 dish. The cream must be very nearly 
 set when you pour it in, or it would run 
 between the strawberries, and produce a 
 bad effect. 
 
 Slip. Warm two quarts or more of 
 new milk, then put in it a piece of ren- 
 net that has been kept in wine, or suffi- 
 cient of the liquor to curdle it. When a 
 firm curd is formed, set it in a cool place. 
 Serve with grated nutmeg over it, and 
 with cream. 
 
 1648. EASY AND EXCELLENT KECEIPT 
 FOE JELLY. 
 
 (By a Lady of New York.) 
 
 Seven bars isinglass dissolved in two 
 quarts water. When cold, add the juice 
 and rind of six lemons the whites and 
 shells of six eggs, a pint and a half of 
 wine, one and a quarter pounds sugar ; 
 Btir all well, boil it five minutes, and 
 strain through a jelly-cloth. 
 
 1549. A GEEMAN TEIFLE. 
 
 Put a pint of strawberries or any 
 other fresh fruit in the bottom of a glass 
 dish. Sugar the fruit, put over it a layer 
 of macaroons ; and pour over it a cus- 
 tard, made with a quart of fresh milk 
 and the yolks of eight eggs beaten, 
 sweetened to taste, and scalding hot. 
 When cold, place on the top the whites 
 of the eggs beaten to a froth with a little 
 sugar, or cream whipped to a froth. 
 The egg may be made ornamental by 
 beating currant jelly with part of it, 
 and putting it hi alternate hills of white 
 and pink. 
 
 1550. GOOSEBEEEY OE APPLE TEIFLE. 
 
 Scald a sufficient quantity of fruit, and 
 pulp it through a sieve, add sugar agree- 
 able to your taste, make a thick layer of 
 this at the bottom of your dish ; mix a 
 pint of milk, a pint of cream, and the 
 yolks of two eggs, scald it over the fire, 
 observing to stir it ; add a small quantity 
 of sugar, and let it get cold. Then lay 
 it over the apples or gooseberries with a 
 spoon, and put on the whole a whip 
 made the day before. 
 
 If you use apples, add the rind of a 
 lemon grated. 
 
 1551. SYLLABUB. 
 
 Mix a quart of cream with half a pint 
 of sherry wine, and sweeten it to taste, 
 adding essence or grated rind of lemon, 
 and, if desired, the juice of the fruit. 
 Churn or beat the mixture to a thick 
 froth, which skim off and put in a glass 
 bowl, over slices of sponge cake. 
 
 1552. A FLOATING ISLAND. 
 
 Take a pint of thick cream, sweeten 
 with fine sugar, grate in the peel of one 
 lemon, and add a gill of sweet white 
 wine ; whisk it well till you have raised 
 a good froth ; then pour a pint of thick 
 cream into a china dish, take a sponge 
 cake, slice it thin, and lay it over the 
 
490 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 cream as lightly as possible ; then a layer 
 of clear calves' feet jelly, or currant 
 jelly ; then whip up your cream, and lay 
 on the froth as high as you can. and what 
 remains pour into the bottom of the dish. 
 ^Garnish the rim with sweetmeats. 
 
 Or /Beat the whites of twelve eggs 
 with a little sugar and currant jelly a 
 teaspoonful to each egg ; whisk it light 
 and lay it on a custard made with the 
 yolks of the eggs and three pints milk. 
 
 1553. WAGNEK'S ICE CKEAMS. (These re- 
 ceipts are furnished by Mr. Wagner of New York, 
 expressly for this work.) 
 
 Vanilla Ice Cream. One quart cream, 
 eight ounces sugar, crushed, half a va- 
 nilla bean. Boil half the cream with the 
 sugar and bean, then add the rest of the 
 cream, and cool and strain it 
 
 Lemon Ice Cream. One quart cream, 
 eight ounces sugar, one lemon. Grate 
 the lemon rind in the sugar; this ex- 
 tracts the oil ; then add the raw cream 
 and strain and freeze very soon. Lemon 
 cream sours and becomes rancid more 
 quickly than any other. 
 
 Strawberry Ice Cream. One quart 
 cream, nine ounces sugar, quarter of a 
 pound fresh berries or more if desired. 
 Wash the berries in the sugar, add the 
 cream, and strain and freeze as soon as 
 possible to prevent curdling. 
 
 Johnston's Freezer. 
 The freezing with the ordinary freezer 
 
 and a strong arm is preferable to all the 
 machines ever invented. Mr. Wagner 
 has at some expense tried the labor-sav- 
 ing machines, but could not bring up the 
 cream to his standard, and has now aban- 
 doned them for his original mode of 
 manufacture. 
 
 A great variety of ice creams may be 
 made with different kinds of fruit in the 
 same manner. 
 
 Nock Cream may be made by mixing 
 half a table-spoonful of flour with a pint of 
 new milk, letting it simmer five minutes 
 to take off the rawness of the flour; 
 beat up the yolk of an egg, stir it into 
 the milk while boiling and run it through 
 a fine sieve. 
 
 Patent Ice Breaker. 
 
 Rennet, to turn milk, may be pre- 
 pared thus : Take out the stomach of a 
 newly killed calf, cover it inside and out- 
 side with salt, after it is cleared of the 
 curd. Drain it a few hours, then sew it 
 up with two handfuls of salt in it, or 
 stretch it on a stick well salted j or keep 
 it in the salt and soak a bit of it when 
 wanted, in fresh water. 
 
 1554. BISCUIT GLACE. 
 
 Rub some pieces of loaf-sugar on the 
 rind of four lemons, powder it, and add 
 half a pound more, moistened with the 
 lemon-juice; mix it with a quart of 
 cream, and add six beaten eggs. Grate 
 some stale Naples biscuit or sponge 
 cakes, and stir them in till a thick 
 smooth batter is formed. Scald it in a 
 
ICES JELLIES. 
 
 491 
 
 porcelain stewpan; put it in a freezer 
 and freeze it. 
 
 1555.-ALMOND CKEAM ICE. 
 
 Take six ounces of bitter almonds, 
 (sweet ones will not do,) blanch them, 
 and pound them in a mortar, adding by 
 degrees, a little rose-water. Boil them 
 gently in a pint of cream till you find 
 that it is highly flavored with them. 
 Then pour the cream into a bowl, stir in 
 half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar, 
 cover it, and set it away to cool gradu- 
 ally. When it is cold, strain it, and then 
 stir it gradually and hard into three 
 pints of cream. Put it into the freezer, 
 and proceed as directed. Freeze it twice. 
 It will be found very fine. 
 
 Send rqund always with ice cream, 
 sponge cake : afterwards wine and cor- 
 dials, or liquors, as they are now gene- 
 rally called. 
 
 1556. WATEK ICES. 
 
 Are made with the juice of lemon, 
 currant, or raspberry, or any other sort 
 of fruit, being gained by squeezing, 
 sweetened, and mixed with water. Rub 
 some fine sugar on lemon or orange, to 
 give the* color and flavor, then squeeze 
 the juice of either on its peel ; add water 
 and sugar to make a fine sherbet, and 
 strain it before it be put into the icepot. 
 If orange, the greater proportion should 
 be of the juice. 
 
 1557. DEVONSHIKE JUNKET. 
 
 Turn warm milk with rennet; add 
 scalded cream, sugar, and cinnamon, hang 
 to drain in a net. 
 
 Country Syllabub is made by milking 
 from the cow into a bowl, with wine, 
 sugar, and flavoring. 
 
 1558. KICE FLUMMEKY. 
 
 Boil with a pint of new milk a bit of 
 lemon-peel and cinnamon; mix with a 
 little cold milk as much rice-flour as 
 
 will make the whole of a good consist- 
 ence ; sweeten, and add a spoonful of 
 peach-water or a bitter almond beaten ; 
 boil it, taking care it does not burn ; pour 
 it into a shape or pint basin, taking out 
 the spice. When cold, turn the flum- 
 mery into a dish, and serve with cream, 
 milk, or custard, round. 
 
 As to the chemical compounds, adver- 
 tised for the making of jellies, custards, 
 and blanc mange, they are worthless in 
 comparison with the animal substance of 
 meat, eggs, and milk, of which such deli- 
 cacies ought to be formed ; they are not 
 cheaper nor so nutritive, neither -do we 
 know of what they are composed. 
 
 1559.-CALFS-FOOT JELLY. 
 
 It is a complaint amongst even experi- 
 enced housekeepers that they cannot 
 feel a certainty of having jelly clear; 
 but by strictly attending to the following 
 method for making calfs-foot jelly, they 
 can scarcely fail to have it beautifully 
 bright. 
 
 Feet for all jellies are boiled so long 
 by the people who sell them that they 
 are less nutritious : they should be pro- 
 cured from the butcher and only scalded 
 to take off the hair. The liquor will 
 require greater care in removing the fat ; 
 but the jelly will be far stronger. A 
 little isinglass, half an ounce to a quart 
 of stock, may be used to secure the firm- 
 j particularly in summer. In peel- 
 
 Felt Jelly Bag. 
 
 ing lemons, care should be taken not to 
 cut below the color, as by so doing a 
 great deal of the flavor of the essential 
 oil is lost, and the white part gives a 
 
92 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 disagreeable flavor. The stock should 
 be measured when set to get cold, as the 
 exact quantity cannot be measured when 
 it is set. 
 
 Jelly is equally good made of cow- 
 heels nicely cleaned ; they bear a less 
 price than those of calves, and make a 
 stronger- jelly. 
 
 To make Jelly. Boil two feet in two 
 quarts and a pint of water till the 
 feet are broken and the water half 
 wasted ; strain it, and the following day 
 take off the fat, and remove the jelly 
 from the sediment ; then put it into a 
 saucepan, with a laurel-leaf, twenty cori- 
 ander-seeds, the peel of two lemons, 
 sugar to palate, half a pint of sherry, 
 and a wine-glass of brandy. When the 
 flavor is rich, put to it the whites of five 
 eggs well beaten, and their shells broken. 
 The ingredients should be cold when 
 mixed together, to ensure the jelly beiag 
 clear. Set the saucepan on the fire, but 
 do not stir the jelly after it gets hot. 
 Let it boil twenty minutes after it rises 
 to a head ; then pour it through a flannel 
 jelly-bag, first dipping the bag in hot 
 water to prevent waste, and squeezing 
 it quite dry. Run the jelly through and 
 through until clear; then put it into 
 glasses or moulds. 
 
 The following mode will greatly facili- 
 tate the clearing of jelly : 
 
 When the mixture has boiled twenty 
 minutes, throw in a teacupful of cold 
 water; let it boil five minutes longer; 
 then take the saucepan off the fire, cov- 
 ered close, and let it stand half an hour ; 
 after which it will be so clear as to need 
 only once running through the bag, and 
 much waste will be saved. 
 
 Or /Boil four quarts of water, with 
 three calf s-feet, or two cow-heels, that 
 have been only scalded, till half wasted : 
 take the jelly from the fat and sediment ; 
 mix with it the juice of a large orange 
 and twelve lemons, the peels of three 
 
 lemons, the whites and shells of twelve 
 eggs, white sug-ar to taste, a pint of wine, 
 one ounce of coriander-seeds, two bay- 
 leaves, a bit of cinnamon, and six cloves, 
 all bruised, after having previously mixed 
 them cold. The jelly should boil fif- 
 teen minutes without stirring ; then clear 
 it through a flannel bag. While running 
 take a little jelly, and mix with a teacup- 
 ful of water in which a bit of beet-root 
 has been boiled, and run it through the 
 bag when all the rest is run out ; this is 
 to garnish the other jelly, being cooled 
 on a plate : but this is a matter of choice. 
 This jelly has a very fine >high color and 
 flavor. 
 
 Cheap Cdlfs-foot Jelly. Take one 
 box of Cox's sparkling gelatine and pour 
 on a pint of cold water let it stand ten 
 minutes, then add a pint of boiling 
 water one pint of wine half a pound 
 of sugar the juice and rind of two 
 lemons strain it through a napkin into 
 a pitcher, then turn it into the moulds- 
 Boil in the water a stick of cinnamon, 
 and the lemon-peels. 
 
 1560.-GOOSEBEKKY-FOOL. 
 
 Put the fruit into a stone jar, with 
 white sugar ; set the jar on a stove, or 
 in a saucepan of water over the fire ; if 
 the former, a large spoonful of water 
 should be added to the fruit. When it 
 is done enough to pulp, press it through 
 a colander; have ready a teacupful of 
 new milk and the same quantity of raw 
 cream boiled together, and left to be cold ; 
 then sweeten pretty well with fine sugar, 
 and mix the pulp by degrees with it. 
 
 For Orange-fool. Mix the juice of 
 three oranges, three eggs well beaten a 
 pint of cream, a little nutmeg and cinna- 
 mon, and sweeten to your taste. Set the 
 whole over a slow fire, and stir it till it 
 becomes as thick as good melted butter, 
 but it must not be boiled ; then pour it 
 into a dish for eating: cold. 
 
FROZEN PUDDING MERINGUES. 
 
 493 
 
 For Apple-fool. Stew apples as di- 
 rected for gooseberries, and then peel and 
 pulp them. Prepare the milk, &c., and 
 mix as before. 
 
 1561. TO MAKE AN ALMOND POSSET. 
 
 Grate the crumb of a loaf very fine, 
 pour a pint of boiling milk upon it ; let 
 it stand two or three hours ; then beat 
 it exceedingly well ; add to it a quart of 
 good cream, and four ounces of almonds, 
 blanched and beaten as fine as possible, 
 with rosewater. Mix them all well to- 
 gether, set them over a very slow fire, 
 and boil them a quarter of an hour: 
 then set it to cool, and beat the yolks of 
 four eggs, and mix them with your 
 cream. When it is cold, sweeten it to 
 your taste ; then stir it over a slow fire, 
 till it grows prettj" thick, but do not let 
 it boil, or it will curdle; then pour it 
 into a china bowl. When you send it to 
 table, put in three macaroons to swim on 
 the top. 
 
 1562,-TAYLOR'S PLUM PUDDING GLACE. 
 
 (Furnished for this work by Mr. Taylor of New 
 York.) 
 
 One quarter of a pound each of raisins, 
 currants and citron, one quarter of a 
 pound of chocolate, all boiled together in 
 a pint of Madeira wine ; mix it when cold 
 with ice cream, so as to make sufficient 
 for an ordinary sized pudding. 
 
 1568. TO CLARIFY ISINGLASS. 
 
 Take two ounces of isinglass, pour on 
 it a pint of spring water which has been 
 mixed with a teaspoonful of beaten white 
 of egg, and a table-lpoonful of lemon- 
 juice. Stir them thoroughly together, 
 and let them heat slowly, taking care 
 the isinglass does not stick to the bottom 
 of the pan ; simmer a few minutes, clear 
 off the scum till no more appears ; strain 
 it through muslin, and set it by for use : 
 it will be transparent, and may be warm- 
 ed and mixed with the clear juice of any 
 kind of fruit already sweetened, or with 
 
 syrup in jellies, flavored with liqueur. 
 As a portion of the isinglass is taken up 
 by the white of egg, one quarter to each 
 ounce should be allowed for this. The 
 finest sort of isinglass, which should be 
 white and without any smell, does not 
 require to be clarified, excepting for clear 
 jellies; for all other purposes it is 
 enough to dissolve and skim it, and to pass 
 it through a strainer. A great variety 
 of excellent jellies may be made with 
 clarified isinglass and the juice or syrup 
 of almost any kind of fresh fruit, the 
 color of which is best preserved by mash r 
 ing it lightly and strewing pounded sugar 
 over it, letting it stand three or four 
 hours for the juice to drain off; pour a 
 little water over, and use the juice with- 
 out boiling. 
 
 1564. FROZEN PUDDING. (Furnished for this 
 work by Mr. Sneckner, whose splendid Con- 
 fectionery Establishment is in Union Square, 
 New York.) 
 
 Cut up about half a pound of preserved 
 fruits such as peaches, plums, citron, 
 raisins, and currants add half a pound 
 of Baker's chocolate, and a pint of best 
 Madeira wine ; simmer on the fire about 
 fifteen minutes, and when perfectly cold 
 add about one quart of vanilla ice cream. 
 Freeze it in a two-quart mould, and for 
 the sauce whip half a pint of sweet 
 cream flavored with vanilla. 
 1565. MERINGUES. 
 
 Pound and sift one pound of lump 
 sugar, whisk the whites of twelve eggs 
 very stiff, throw the sugar lightly over, 
 and with a wooden spoon stir gently, 
 perfectly mixing the sugar, then with a 
 table or dessert-spoon lay them out 
 upon white paper in the shape of eggs, 
 sift powdered sugar thickly over, let them 
 remain ten minutes, then shake off the 
 superfluous sugar, place upon boards 
 which you have wetted, and put them 
 in a slow oven, just hot enough to cause 
 them to be light and slightly tinged; 
 when the outside becomes quite crisp, 
 
494: 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 take off the papers, by turning them 
 topsy-turvy and lifting the papers from 
 them ; dip your spoon into hot water, 
 and with it clear out the best part of 
 the mterior, dust them with powdered 
 sugar, lay them upon a baking-sheet, and 
 put into the screen to dry ; they may be 
 made several days before they are re- 
 quired, if put away in a dry place ; to 
 serve, fill them with whipped cream, 
 flavored either with vanilla or orange- 
 flower (but do not make it too sweet), 
 stick two together, dress in pyramid upon 
 a napkin, and serve. Should they happen 
 to stick to the papers, moisten the papers 
 with a paste-brush and water underneath ; 
 they will come away easier. 
 
 1566.-MEEINGUE8 A LA CRfeME. (Furnished 
 by Mr. Delmonico for this work.) 
 
 Beat to a froth the whites of six eggs, 
 to this add three ounces of finely powder- 
 ed sugar, and mix up well. Then lay 
 sheets of paper upon tin or other plates, 
 place some spoonfuls of the mixture at 
 intervals of half an inch, and powder 
 them with fine sugar. Cook them at a 
 very gentle heat, and, when done, place 
 them in a warm place, in order to keep 
 them dry. You may dress them with 
 whipped cream or jelly, according to your 
 taste. 
 
 1567.-NOUGAT. * 
 
 Cut in dice or in fillets a pound of 
 blanched sweet almonds, and mix with 
 them eight or six bitter almonds. When 
 they are cut equally, dry them in the 
 oven, but keep them white ; take three 
 or four spoonfuls of superfine pounded 
 sugar, put it over a slow fire in a pre- 
 serving pan ; when the sugar is melted 
 without having used any water, throw 
 the almonds in, but take care that they 
 are quite dry. Stir the sugar with 
 clean woodon skewer. If you hear a 
 noise when you throw them into the 
 sugar, it is a sign that they are dry 
 enough. Rub a mould slightly over in- 
 
 side with oil or butter, and lay some al- 
 monds in beds as thinly as possible ; 
 take an oiled. lemon to press the almonds 
 with : but be quick, otherwise the almonds 
 will get -cool, and then they cannot be 
 worked so thin. The nougat requires to 
 be light, to be made to perfection. Some- 
 times you may make the nougat in a 
 mould the form of a vase, sometimes in 
 small custard-moulds, according to your 
 choice ; it is always the same thing, but 
 you may cut the almonds of different 
 shapes. 
 
 Sometimes make a pound of almonds 
 into nougat, oil a baking-dish, and spread 
 it over it, oil the rolling-pin, and flatten 
 the nougat with it ; if it will spread 
 easy, put it in the oven again to make it 
 soft ; then cut it into small long squares, 
 and keep it in a very dry place, to pre- 
 vent it sticking to the fingers. The 
 nougat is in general made too sweet, and 
 it is an article that belongs to the con- 
 fectionery department. 
 
 COFFEE, TEA, AND 
 CHOCOLATE. 
 
 1568. COFFEE. 
 
 There are several ways of making 
 coffee ; and every housewife generally 
 has her favorite mode. The French make 
 excellent coffee without the aid of eggs, 
 isinglass, or any foreign article to settle 
 it. It consists of a sort of tin coffee-pot, 
 with two strainers. You remove the 
 first strainer, and pour some boiling water 
 into the coffee-pot through the second 
 strainer. Empty out the water, and put 
 in a sufficient quantity of coffee for the 
 family over the under strainer and press 
 it flat with a little tin machine (which 
 comes with the apparatus). Put in the 
 other strainer, and pour in the hot water. 
 The coffee will drain through in a few 
 moments. 
 
COFFEE. 
 
 495 
 
 I PAEKER'S PATENT COFFEE-MAKER, 
 
 Coffee Canister. 
 
 Another mode of making Coffee. Take 
 fresh roasted coffee, allow two table- 
 spoonfuls for each person, grind it just 
 before making, put it in a basin and break 
 into it an egg, yolk, white, shell, and all. 
 Mix it up with the spoon to the consist- 
 ence of mortar, put warm, not boiling 
 water, in the coffee pot ; let it boil up 
 and break three times ; then stand a few 
 minutes and it will be as clear as amber, 
 and the egg will give it a rich taste. 
 
 Codfish skin, scraped, washed, and 
 dried, and cut in pieces, an inch square, 
 may be used to settle off, or isinglass. 
 You may add to a pint of coffee a pint 
 of boiling milk, and heat both together 
 before serving. 
 
 Sugar Box. 
 1569. COFFEE, TO ROAST. 
 
 Coffee should never be roasted but 
 when you are going to use it, and then 
 it should be watched with the greatest 
 care, and made of a gold color ; mind 
 and do not burn it, for a few grains burnt 
 would communicate a bitter taste to the 
 whole ; it is the best way to roast it in 
 a roaster over a charcoal fire, which turns 
 with the hand, as by that means it will 
 not be forgotten. 
 
 Figure 1. 
 
 By this machine, the extract of coffee 
 is prepared in a very easy and expedi- 
 tious manner. When the extract is 
 made, it may be diluted with boiling 
 water to suit the palate ; or hot milk 
 may be used instead of water, making 
 cafe au lait. 
 
 Figure 1 represents the external ap- 
 pearance of the apparatus, and figure 2 
 is a section to show its construction and 
 mode of action, a a is a box of metal to 
 hold the coffee, having its bottom and 
 top lid perforated with numerous small 
 holes. From the lower part of the box 
 proceeds a funnel, that reaches nearly to 
 the bottom of an outside vessel or cylin- 
 der of metal, e e, which is divided into 
 two parts interiorly by a partition, & &, 
 and on the middle of this partition is 
 fixed a tube, into which the neck of the 
 funnel is put, and on which the box with 
 the coffee rests. The exterior vessel is 
 covered with a convex lid, d. The whole 
 is placed on a stand, in which is a- spirit- 
 lamp, f, having a sliding tube, ^, so ar- 
 ranged that the heat can be increased or 
 diminished at pleasure. 
 
496 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 Having taken out the box, with its 
 funnels, it is filled with coffee, and boil- 
 ing water is poured down the tube in 
 the interior ; this will pass into the di- 
 vision at the lower part, e e ; then the 
 box with the coffee is to be replaced, and 
 the lamp lighted. The steam which is 
 formed forces the water into e e to rise 
 through the tube, and passes upward 
 through the perforated bottom of the 
 box into the coffee, which is seen rising 
 as a dark fluid through the perforated 
 
 1 piling up the ground coffee in the centre, 
 and then striking it off with a knife, as 
 is done with corn in a bushel-measure. 
 The time for making the extract of coffee, 
 where hot water is used, should never 
 exceed five minutes. If it takes longer, 
 it can arise only from the coffee being 
 ground too finely ; and this not only in- 
 creases the expenditure of spirits of wine 
 and of time, but likewise injures the 
 quality of the extract. The remedy is, 
 to grind the coffee coarser and coarser, 
 until the operation, after the water in 
 the boiler boils, lasts only three minutes. 
 The extract of coffee prepared by this 
 apparatus contains all the arorna and 
 other fine qualities of the coffee. 
 
 Figure 2. 
 
 lid of a #, and flowing over into the up- 
 per division, & b. The passage of the 
 water should be permitted to continue 
 till it becomes pale-colored^ and has con- 
 sequently extracted all the goodness of 
 the coffee, when the lamp should be ex- 
 tinguished, and the lid put on. The ex- 
 tract is then drawn off by means of the 
 faucet. 
 
 After making the extract, it is best 
 not to drain off the liquid remaining 
 within the rim of the cover, but to let 
 it return into the boiler, which it will do 
 as soon as the lamp is extinguished. 
 Thus, any sediment will return with it. 
 
 The filling of the box is best done by 
 
 TEA. 
 
 Tastes differ regarding the flavor of 
 various sorts of tea: some preferring all 
 black; others, all green; and many, a 
 mixture of both in different quantities ; 
 though most persons when not fearful 
 
 Tea Canister. 
 
 of their nerves agree that fine Hyson 
 is the best. A good mixture, in point of 
 
CHOCOLATE. 
 
 497 
 
 flavor, we know to be two-fifths black, 
 two -fifths green, and one-fifth gunpow- 
 der: all being, of course, of superior 
 quality. 
 
 Presuming all ladies to be intimately 
 acquainted with the mode of making tea, 
 yet to some, a few hints on the subject 
 may not perhaps be found objectionable. 
 
 Boiling water should alone be used. 
 
 Metal tea-pots in preference to earth- 
 enware. They retain heat better. 
 
 Silver is better than either. 
 
 Water Urn. 
 
 A spoonful of tea for each person. 
 Heat the tea-pot first with some boiling 
 water, then pour that into the tea-cups 
 to warm them; put in your tea, and 
 pour enough water upon the tea to cover 
 it; let it stand three or four minutes, 
 then nearly fill the tea-pot with water ; 
 let it stand a few minutes, and pour out. 
 
 CHOCOLATE, 
 
 If made thin, is not worth drinking ; 
 and that which is commonly sold is a 
 compound of flour, or some farinaceous 
 substance, and coarse sugar, with a very 
 moderate quantity of real cocoa, and that 
 of the most inferior quality, colored with 
 Venetian red and brown ochre. 
 
 Chocolate forms the common breakfast 
 throughout Spain, and is there made by 
 merely chipping a portion of the cake 
 into which it is formed from the cocoa, 
 
 leaving the chips in water for a whole 
 night to soften. It may then be slowly 
 warmed, along with either water oi 
 milk, working it all the time with the 
 mill, which is a small movable pole 
 passed through the lid of a chocolate- 
 pot, and furnished with a headpiece, in 
 order to mix the chocolate equally, by 
 turning the mill rapidly between the 
 hands and without intermission, thus to 
 prevent it from becoming clotty ; care, 
 however, should be taken not to let it 
 ~boil ; for, in that case, the vegetable oil 
 which is contained in the nut will be ex- 
 tracted from it and appear on the sur- 
 face. The flavor is better retained by 
 making it in water than milk. 
 
 It is always made very thick, so that 
 a small spoon will nearly stand upright 
 in it, and nothing eaten with it but a 
 rusk, or dry toast : after which there is 
 usually taken a draught of cold spring 
 water. 
 
 The usual mode of making it here is, 
 to boil a pint of water and a pint of milk 
 in the pot, put to it a part of a cake of 
 chocolate cut into very small slices, mill 
 it off the fire till quite melted, then put 
 it on a gentle fire till it nearly boils, 
 milling it all the time. Sweeten to 
 taste. 
 
 1570. COCOA. 
 
 An excellent breakfast beverage may 
 be made by simply pounding the nut 
 which is the substance of chocolate and 
 boiling it in the same manner in either 
 water or milk. 
 
 Cocoa /Shells or Nibs, are the thin 
 coverings of the cocoa kernel, and can 
 only be had at some chocolate manufac- 
 tory, where they can be bought at a very 
 low price, and form a light food for an 
 invalid, when taken warm. 
 
 Soak them in water during the whole 
 night, and then boil them in the same water 
 until it is reduced to half the quantity : 
 
498 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 they should boil two hours, and should 
 then be mixed up with milk. 
 
 1571. CHOCOLATE DROPS. 
 Take one pound and a half of choco- 
 late, put it on a pewter plate and put it 
 in the oven just to warm the chocolate, 
 then put it into a copper stewpan with 
 three-quarters of a pound of powdered 
 sugar ; mix it well over the fire, take it 
 off. and roll it in pieces the size of small 
 marbles, put them on white paper, and 
 when they are all on, take the , sheets of 
 paper by each corner and lift it up and 
 down, so that the paper may touch the 
 table each time, and by that means you 
 will see the drops come quite fat, about 
 the size of a sixpence j put some sugar 
 nonpareils over them, and' cover all that 
 are on the paper, then shake them off, 
 and you will see all the chocolate drops 
 are covered with the sugar nonpareils ; 
 let them stand till cold and they will 
 come off well, and then put them in a 
 box prepared. 
 
 1572. TEA CREAM. 
 
 Infuse an ounce of the best green tea 
 in half a pint of boiling rnilk, simmer it 
 five minutes, then strain it through a 
 tammy, pressing the leaves well ; boil a 
 pint of rich cream, add to it the yolks 
 of four eggs beaten, and sufficient quan- 
 tity of clarified sugar ; pour this whilst 
 hot to the milk, stir them together well, 
 put in as much clarified isinglass as will 
 set it, and pour the cream into the mould 
 or glasses ; place them on ice ; when per- 
 fectly cold, turn it out of the mould or 
 serve in the glasses. 
 
 PKESEKYES, &c. 
 
 PRESEKVES should be kept carefully 
 from the air, and in a very dry place. 
 Unlews they have a very small propor- 
 
 tion of sugar, a warm one does not hurt ; 
 but when not properly boiled, heat makes 
 them ferment, and damp causes them to 
 grow mouldy. They should be looked 
 at two or three times in the first two 
 months, that they may be gently boiled 
 again if not likely to keep. Paste the 
 edge of the outer paper, as it keeps out 
 the air better than a string ; put writing- 
 paper over the fruit. 
 
 Dried sweetmeats, cakes, &c., should 
 be kept in tin boxes, between layers of 
 white paper, in a very dry but not hot 
 room. 
 
 All fruits for preserving should be 
 gathered in dry weather ; but as this is 
 not always practicable, much incon- 
 venience may be obviated by boiling the 
 fruit for jellies and jams long before the 
 sugar is added. By so doing, the watery 
 particles will evaporate, and the preserve 
 will be better flavored, by the sugar not 
 being too long on the fire. 
 
 Pans of copper or bell-metal are the 
 proper utensils for preserving fruit : when 
 used, they must be scoured bright with 
 sand. Tinned pans turn and destroy the 
 color of the fruit that is put into them. 
 
 1578. TO PEESERVE WATERMELON RIND. 
 
 Pare off the outer skin and cut the 
 rind into shapes : green them by simmer- 
 ing with vine leaves and a little alum, 
 and allow a pound and a quarter of sugar 
 to each pound. Make the syrup and clarify 
 it with white of egg, and simmer the 
 melon rind till done through and trans- 
 parent. Boil down the syrup afterwards, 
 and pour it over the preserves. 
 
 Chips of pumpkin or muskmelon rind, 
 cut thin, are often made into preserves, 
 adding the juice and grated rind of 
 lemons, which much improves the syrup. 
 
 Citrons may be preserved in the same 
 manner, first paring off the outer skin, 
 and cutting them into quarters. Also 
 green limes. 
 
PRESERVES. 
 
 499 
 
 15T4 APPLES. 
 
 Weigh equal quantities of good brown 
 sugar and of apples ; peel and core them. 
 Boil the sugar, allowing to every three 
 pounds a pint of water ; skim it well, and 
 boil it pretty thick ; then add the apples, 
 the peel of one or two lemons, and two 
 or three pieces of white ginger ; boil till 
 the apples look clear and yellow. This 
 preserve will keep for years. 
 
 1575. PINE-APPLES. 
 
 Take those that are ripe, and perfectly 
 fresh pare off the rind, and cut the 
 apples in slices an inch thick. Powder 
 the same weight of white sugar as you 
 have pine apples lay the pine-apples in 
 a deep dish, and sprinkle part of the 
 powdered sugar between each layer of 
 apples. Reserve about half of the sugar. 
 Let the apples remain till the succeeding 
 day then turn the syrup from them, 
 and mix it with the reserved sugar, and 
 half a pint of water, for three or four 
 pounds of pine apple. Boil the syrup, 
 take it from the fire, and when cool, put 
 in the apples, simmer them gently till 
 tender, let them remain in a deep dish 
 for several days ; they should be covered 
 up tight, and kept in a cool place. When- 
 ever there is any appearance of fermen- 
 tation, turn the syrup from them, scald 
 it, and turn it back hot upon the pine- 
 apples. Keep them in glass or china 
 jars, covered tight, and in a cool place. 
 
 1576. TAIT PINE-APPLE. 
 
 To fourteen pounds of grated pine- 
 apple add half an ounce of grated alum, 
 and mix thoroughly. Boil seven pounds 
 white sugar in as little water as possible, 
 skimming it until perfectly clear. Pour 
 the boiling sugar over the fruit, and put 
 it into empty champagne bottles ; stand 
 the bottles in boiling water till the water 
 begins to cool ; then cork and seal them 
 closely. 
 
 1577. CEAB-APPLES. 
 
 Make a syrup, allowing the same 
 weight of sugar as apples. Let it cool, 
 then put in the apples, a few at once, so 
 that they will not crowd, and break to 
 pieces. Boil them till they begin to 
 break, then take them out of the kettle. 
 Boil the syrup in the course of three or 
 four days, and turn it while hot upon 
 the apples. This continue to do at in- 
 tervals of two or three days, till the 
 apples appear to be thoroughly preserved. 
 
 1578. GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOE MAKING 
 SWEETMEATS AND JELLIES. 
 
 In preparing sugar for sweetmeats, let 
 it be entirely dissolved before you put it 
 on the fire. If you dissolve it in water, 
 allow about half a pint of water to a 
 pound of sugar. If you boil the sugar 
 before you add the fruit to it, it will be 
 improved in clearness by passing it 
 through a flannel bag. Skim off the 
 brown scum all the time it is boiling. If 
 sweetmeats are boiled too long, they lose 
 their flavor and become of a dark color. 
 If boiled too short a time they will not 
 keep well. You may ascertain when 
 jelly is done, by dropping a small spoon- 
 ful into a glass of water. If it spreads 
 and mixes with the water, it requires 
 more boiling. If it sinks in a lump to 
 the bottom, it is sufficiently done. This 
 trial must be made after the jelly is cold. 
 Raspberry jelly requires more boiling 
 than any other sort. Black currant 
 jelly less. Keep your sweetmeats in 
 glass jars. 
 
 1579.-TO PEESEEVE QUINCES. 
 
 Ripe quinces pare and cut in slices an 
 inch thick take out the cores carefully, 
 so as to have the slices in the form of a 
 ring. Allow a pound of white sugar for 
 each pound dissolve it in cold water, 
 having a quart of the latter to a pound 
 of sugar, then put in the sliced quinces, 
 
500 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 and let them soak in it ten or twelve 
 hours. Put them in a preserving kettle, 
 and put it on a moderate fire cover them 
 over, and let the quinces boil gently 
 there should be more than enough syrup 
 to cover the quinces. When a broom 
 bplinter will go through them easily, 
 take them from the fire, and turn them 
 out. In the course of a week turn the 
 syrup from them, and boil it down, so 
 that there will be just enough to coyer 
 the fruit. When not very ripe, pare and 
 cut the quinces either in rings or quar- 
 ters, take out the cores, and boil the 
 quinces in fair water, till they begin to 
 grow tender take them up, and strain 
 the water in which they are boiled put 
 in either brown or white sugar add a 
 little cold water. When lukewarm, put 
 in the whites of eggs and clarify it let 
 it cool, then put in the quinces, and boil 
 them slowly for half an hour. Keep 
 them covered over while boiling, if you 
 wish to have them of a light color. Turn 
 them out into pots as soon as preserved, 
 and set them away in a cool place. Look 
 at them in the course of a week to see if 
 they have fermented if so, turn the 
 syrup from them, boil it. and turn it 
 back while hot. The parings and cores 
 of the quinces can be used for marmal- 
 ade, with a few whole ones. Some people 
 prefer to preserve the quinces with the 
 cores in, but the syrup will not look 
 clear. The following is a cheap method 
 of preserving quinces, and answers very 
 well for common use : Pare, halve, and 
 take out the cores of the quinces, and 
 boil the parings in new cider till soft. 
 Strain the cider, and for five pounds of 
 quinces put in a pound of brown sugar, 
 a quart of molasses, the beaten white of 
 an egg clarify it, then put in the quinces. 
 There should be rather more than enough 
 cider to cover the quinces, as it wastes a 
 good deal while the quinces are boiling. 
 The peel of an orange cut in small pieces, 
 
 and boiled with them, gives the quinoes 
 a fine flavor. 
 
 Quince Marmalade. Gather the fruit 
 when fully ripe, and of a fine yellow ; 
 pare, quarter, and core it. Put the 
 quinces into a saucepan with a little 
 water, set them on the fire until they are 
 quite soft ; then take them out, and lay 
 them on a sieve to drain ; rub them 
 through, and put to each pound of the 
 strained quinces a pound of brown sugar. 
 Set it on a few coals, and let it stew 
 slowly, stirring it constantly. When it 
 has stewed an hour, take a little of it 
 out, let it get cold if it then cuts 
 smooth, it is sufficiently stewed. 
 
 Quince Jelly. Halve the quinces, and 
 take out the cores. Boil the quinces till 
 very soft in clear water, mash them, and 
 let them drain through a flannel bag, 
 without squeezing them. Put to the 
 quince liquor, when drained through the 
 bag, white sugar in the proportion of a 
 pound to a pint of liquor. Add the 
 whites of eggs, and clarify it. When 
 clear, boil it on a moderate fire till it 
 becomes a thick jelly. Fill glasses with 
 the jelly, and cover them tight. The 
 quince pulp that remains in the jelly-bag 
 can be made into marmalade. 
 
 1580. TO PKESEEVE PEACHES, APRICOTS, 
 NECTARINES, AND PLUMS. 
 
 September is the best month for 
 peaches, as they are then harder and 
 larger. Weigh the peaches, put them 
 into a preserving-pan full of cold water, 
 with a slice or two of lemon; set them 
 on a slow fire, have ready a sieve and 
 a napkin, and be careful not to do them 
 too much. 
 
 Some of the peaches will be ready 
 sooner than others ; when they begin to 
 be soft they are done enough ; take them 
 out as they become soft, and drain them 
 on a sieve, and let them stand until cold ; 
 then make a syrup, to every pound of 
 
PRESERVES. 
 
 501 
 
 peaches allowing a pound of loaf-sugar 
 use some of the water in which the 
 peaches were boiled for the syrup. Take 
 the kernels of half a dozen peaches, 
 throw them into hot water and remove 
 their skins, then boil them with the 
 syrup you are making. Put the peaches 
 into jars and glasses, and pour the syrup 
 over them. 
 
 Cut several round pieces of paper, dip 
 them in brandy, lay them over the pre- 
 serves, and tie up the jars. 
 
 Apricots, nectarines, and plums, may 
 be preserved in the same manner. 
 
 This way of preserving peaches is 
 much preferable to cutting them up and 
 then preserving them. The fruit should 
 not be permitted to boil until it becomes 
 shrivelled. 
 
 1581. BEANDT PEACHES. 
 
 To each pound of peaches take three- 
 quarters of a pound of white sugar. 
 Make a syrup, in half of which boil the 
 fruit, having first taken off the skin by 
 scalding them in hot lye, which is made 
 by dissolving as much salsoda in boiling 
 water as will make it strong enough to 
 bear an.pgg. 
 
 The peaches are to be taken out of the 
 lye as soon as Ahe skin begins to crack, 
 and thrown into cold water, when they 
 can be rubbed quite clean with a coarse 
 cloth. Rinse them in fresh water, wrap 
 them in a cloth to drain, and keep them 
 covered, as on this depends their color. 
 
 When the boiled peaches are cold, add 
 to the remainder of the syrup the same 
 quantity of brandy. Put away the 
 peaches in it, and cover tightly. 
 
 1582. GREEN GAGES. 
 
 Allow equal weights of sugar and 
 gages. Make a syrup of white sugar, 
 and just water enough to cover the 
 plums. Boil the plums slowly in the 
 syrup ten minutes turn them into a 
 j and let them remain four or five 
 32 
 
 days, then boil them again, till the syrup 
 
 appears to have entered the plums. Put 
 
 ; them into a china jar, and in the course 
 
 of a week turn the syrup from them, 
 
 scald it, and turn it over them hot. 
 
 1583. TO PRESERVE PEARS. 
 
 Pare them very thin, and simmer them 
 in a thin syrup, allowing only one-quar- 
 ter of a pound of sugar to a pound of 
 pears. Let them lie for two days, add 
 another quarter of a pound of sugar to 
 each pound of pears, and simmer them 
 again. Let them lie all night, or longer 
 if you please, then simmer them once 
 more, this time adding half a pound of 
 sugar to each pound of pears, with the 
 juice of half a lemon to every two pounds 
 of fruit. A small portion of the lemon- 
 peel may also be used. The fruit may 
 then be drained and dried in the sun, so 
 that they may be used dry ; or they may 
 be poured into the jars with the syrup 
 over them. 
 
 Another mode of preserving pears, 
 and a less troublesome one, is to pare, 
 quarter and core the pears, boil them for 
 an hour in as much water as will cover 
 them, then add to every pound of pears 
 a pound of white sugar and the juice of 
 half a lemon, boil the whole and skim it. 
 When the pears are soft, pour them into 
 jars and the syrup over them ; tie up the 
 jars. 
 
 This is a much more expeditious way 
 
 I of preserving the pears, and perhaps the 
 
 I best for large families, where sweetmeats 
 
 are in daily use ; but the fruit itself does 
 
 not look as clear and beautiful as when 
 
 preserved by the former method. 
 
 Pear Marmalade Boil the pears with 
 the skins on. When soft, rub them 
 through a sieve, and put to each pound 
 of pulp three-quarters of a pound of 
 brown sugar. Stew it over a slow fire 
 ! till it becomes a thick jelly. It should 
 be stirred constantly. 
 
502 
 
 THE PEACTICAL HOUSEKEEPEK. 
 
 Baked Pears. Take half a dozen fine 
 pears ; peel, cut them in halves, and take 
 out the cores ; put them into a pan with 
 half a pound of sugar, and some water. 
 Set them in a moderate oven till tender, 
 then put them on a slow fire to stew 
 gently ; add grated lemon-peel, and more 
 sugar, if necessary. They will be suffi- 
 ciently red. 
 
 1584. GOOSEBEEEIES. 
 
 The tops and tails being removed from 
 the gooseberries, allow an equal quantity 
 of finely pounded loaf-sugar, and put a 
 layer of each alternately into a large 
 deep jar ; pour into it as much dripped 
 currant-juice, either red or white, as will 
 dissolve the sugar, adding its weight in 
 sugar ; the following day put all into a 
 preserving-pan and boil it. 
 
 Gooseberry Jam. Take what quantity 
 you please of red, rough, ripe gooseber- 
 ries ; take half their quantity of lump 
 sugar ; break them well, and boil them 
 together for half an hour or more, if 
 necessary. Put it into pots and cover 
 with paper. 
 
 1585. CTJBEANT JELLY, (EED). 
 
 Strip off the currants, put them in a 
 jar, set the jar in a kettle of hot water, 
 let it boil an hour, then throw the cur- 
 rants and juice into a fine lawn sieve, 
 press out all the juice, and to every pint 
 of juice put a pound of fine^ sugar; put 
 them in a preserving-pan, set it over a 
 charcoal fire and keep it stirring till it is 
 in a jelly, which you will know by tak- 
 ing a little out to cool; be careful to 
 take off the scum as it rises, and when 
 it is jellied and very clear pour it into 
 glasses ; when cold, cut round pieces of 
 paper that will just cover the jelly, dip- 
 ped in brandy, put white paper over the 
 glasses, twisting round the top. Make 
 black currant jelly the same way, using 
 coarse sugar. 
 
 1586. CLEAE APPLE JELLY. 
 
 Pare and cut up five dozen large juicy, 
 acid apples ; put them in a pan with as 
 much water as will cover them, let them 
 3oil gently until soft, let them get cold, 
 then strain them through a jelly bag, put 
 the juice in your preserving pan. and to 
 each pint of juice put one pound of fine 
 sugar and the peel of two lemons, then 
 boil it until it is reduced to the stiffness 
 of calves'-foot jelly, skim it well, add the 
 nice of a lemon ; it should be made in 
 September, the flavor of the apple is better. 
 
 Jelly may be made from apricots, 
 raspberries, grapes, and other fruits, 
 using a pound of sugar for each pint of 
 uice, and following the above directions. 
 
 1587. COLOBING FOE JELLIE8, ETC. 
 
 For a beautiful red, boil fifteen grains 
 of cochineal in the finest powder, with a 
 drachm and a half of cream of tartar in 
 half a pint of water, very slowly, half 
 an hour ; add in boiling a bit of alum, 
 the size of a pea, or use beet-root sliced, 
 and some liquor poured over. 
 
 For white, use almonds finely powder- 
 ed, with a little drop of water, or use 
 ream. 
 
 For yellow, yolks of eggs, or a bit 
 of saffron steeped in the liquor and 
 squeezed. 
 
 For green, pound spinach leaves or 
 beet leaves, express the juice, and boil a 
 teacupful in a saucepan of water to take 
 off the rawness. 
 
 1588. FEOSTED FEUIT. 
 
 Pick out the finest cherries, plums, 
 apricots, grapes, or small pears leave on 
 their stalks. Beat the whites of three 
 eggs to a stiff froth drain them, and 
 beat the part that drips off again. Lay 
 the fruit in the beaten egg with the stalks 
 upward select them out one by one, 
 and dip them into a cup of finely pow- 
 dered sugar. Cover a pan with a sheet 
 
PKESERVES. 
 
 503 
 
 of fine paper, place the fruit inside of it, 
 and set it in an oven that is cooling. 
 When the icing on the fruit becomes firm 
 pile them on a dish and set them in a 
 cool place. 
 
 1589. GEAPES IN BEANDY. 
 
 Take some close bunches, black or 
 white, not over-ripe, and lay them in a 
 jar. Put a good quantity of pounded 
 white sugar upon them, and fill up the 
 jar with brandy ; tie them close down 
 with a bladder, and keep in a dry place. 
 Each grape should be pricked thrice. 
 
 They make a beautiful middle dish in 
 a winter dessert. 
 
 1590. CEANBEEEY JELLY. 
 
 Make a very strong isinglass jelly. 
 When cold, mix it wi^h a double quan- 
 tity of cranberry juice pressed, sweeten 
 it with loaf sugar, and boil it up j then 
 strain it into a shape. 
 
 1591. TO PEESERVE STEAWBEEEIES, 
 
 EASPBEEEIES, AND BLACK- 
 
 BEEEIES, WHOLE. 
 
 The strawberries should be gathered 
 fresh from the vines. Select the largest, 
 and those perfectly unbroken. Mash 
 up the others and boil them for a quarter 
 of an hour without any water strain 
 them through a fine jelly-bag. 
 
 Measure the juice, and allow a pound 
 of loaf sugar, to every quart of straw- 
 berry juice. 
 
 When you make the syrup allow a 
 pint of spring water to every two pounds 
 of sugar skim the syrup thoroughly. 
 When the scum ceases to rise pour in 
 the juice of the berries and boil it 
 from five to fifteen minutes, or until the 
 syrup will hang in drops from a spoon. 
 
 Pour the syrup into glass jars or tum- 
 blers, and lifting the whole strawberries 
 with a spoon, put as many of them in 
 each jar as it will hold, without being at 
 all crowded. The syrup should cover all 
 well, and it is better to have too few 
 
 than too many in every jar. Let the 
 jars stand until the syrup is quite cold, 
 and then tie them up with paper dipped 
 in brandy. 
 
 1592. TO DEY CHEEEIES. 
 
 Weigh the cherries before they are 
 stoned, and allow to every pound of 
 fruit a quarter of a pound of lump-sugar ; 
 when they are stoned set them over a 
 slow fire to heat, then take them out of 
 the liquor and put the sugar to them, 
 and let them stand till it is dissolved. 
 Then set them over the fire and let them 
 just boil. Allow them to stand until 
 they are quite cold, or, if convenient, for 
 two or three days, in the syrup ; after- 
 wards strain them, and spread them on 
 sieves to dry, either on a stove or in the 
 sun, or in an oven after the bread is 
 drawn. 
 
 The same syrup will do again for more 
 fruit. 
 
 To Dry without Sugar. Stone, and 
 set them over the fire in*the preserving- 
 pan ; let them simmer in their own 
 liquor, and shake them in the pan. Put 
 them in china common dishes ; next day 
 give them another scald, and put them 
 when cold on sieves to dry in an oven of 
 temperate heat. Twice heating, an hour 
 each time, will do them. 
 
 Put them in a box, with a paper be- 
 tween each layer. 
 
 1593.-CUEEANT JAM. 
 
 Strip your currants, and put them into 
 your pan, with three-quarters of a pound 
 of sugar to a pound of fruit, add your 
 sugar after your fruit has boiled a few 
 minutes, boil all together, mashing your 
 fruit with a wooden spoon ; boil all gently 
 for half an hour, then fill your jars. 
 
 Currants Preserved. Take the seeds 
 and stalks from whatever quantity of 
 currants you intend to use, of which a 
 fourth part must be white currants ; put 
 
504: 
 
 THE PKACTldAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 them into a preserving pan with a glass 
 of water, let them boil up until the fruit 
 bursts, then strain the juice twice, 
 clarify and boil to casse some sugar, an 
 equal weight to the fruit, pour the juice 
 on it, boil them together a quarter of an 
 hour, and having skimmed it well, pour 
 it into pots. 
 
 To preserve them dry. Tie up in 
 bunches ; to every pound of currants boil 
 two pounds of sugar, till it boils very 
 ptrong, dip in the currants, let them boil 
 very fast till the sugar flies all over them ; 
 when settled a quarter of an hour boil 
 them till the sugar rises almost to the 
 top of the pan, let them settle, skim them 
 and set them by till next day. then drain 
 them and lay them out, taking care to 
 spread the sprigs that they may not dry 
 clogged together ; dust them very much, 
 and dry them in a hot stove. 
 
 1594 FIGS GEEEN, TO PEESEEVE. 
 Slit some small green figs on the top, 
 and put them ito water for ten days, and 
 proceed thus : Put as much salt into the 
 water as will make it bear an egg, then 
 let it settle, take off the scum and put 
 the clear brine to the figs^ keep them for 
 ten days ; then put them into fresh water, 
 shifting them every day for four days ; 
 again drain, then put them into clarified 
 sugar, warm them a -little and let them 
 stand till the next day; warm them 
 again, and when they are become green 
 give them a good boil, then boil some 
 sugar down, put it to them and give 
 them another boil, and next day drain 
 and dry them. 
 
 1595. FIGS EIPE, TO PEESEEVE. 
 
 Take the figs when ripe, slit them in 
 the tops, put them into clarified sugar, 
 and give them a good boil, skim them, 
 and leave them to stand till the next 
 day. then boil some more sugar, put it 
 to the figs and give them another boil, 
 the next day drain and dry them. 
 
 Ripe or Green Tomatoes Make a nice 
 preserve. They require a more than 
 usual quantity of sugar. 
 
 1596. GINGEE, PEESEEVED. 
 
 Take some green ginger, and with a 
 sharp knife pare it neatly, and as it is 
 pared throw into a pan of cold water to 
 keep it white ; when you have a sufficient 
 quantity boil it till tender, changing the 
 water three times each time ; put it into 
 cold water to take out the heat or spirit 
 of the ginger, when tender throw it into 
 cold water. For seven pounds of ginger 
 clarify eight pounds of refined sugar; 
 when cold drain the ginger and put it into 
 an earthen pan, with a sufficient quantity 
 of the sugar cold to cover it, and let it 
 stand for a couple of days ; then pour the 
 syrup from the ginger to the remainder 
 of the sugar, boil it for some time, and 
 when cold pour it on the ginger again, 
 and set by for three days at least. Then 
 taKe the syrup from the ginger, boil it, 
 and then put it hot over the ginger ; pro- 
 ceed in this manner until you find the 
 sugar has entered the ginger ; boiling the 
 syrup and skimming off the scum that 
 rises each time until the syrup becomes 
 rich as well as the ginger ; if the syrup 
 is put on hot at first, or if too rich the 
 ginger will shrink and not take the 
 sugar. 
 
 159T. MAEMALADE. 
 
 Marmalade may be composed almost 
 of any fruit ; the best however for this 
 purpose are apricots, peaches, oranges, 
 quinces, eggs, plums, apples, &c. ; they 
 are usually made by boiling the fruit and 
 sugar together to a kind of pulp, stirring 
 them constantly while on the fire. It is 
 kept in pots which must not be covered, 
 till the marmalade is quite cold ; the pro- 
 portion of sugar is half a pound to each 
 pound of fruit. 
 
 1598. APPLE MAEMALADE. 
 
 Boil some pippins until they begin to 
 
PRESERVES. 
 
 505 
 
 get tender, then put them into cold water, 
 pare and core them, squeeze the pulp 
 through a sieve, and put it over the fire, 
 letting it remain till it becomes very 
 thick, then weigh an equal quantity of 
 fine sugar, boil till the sugar rises in 
 sparkles which cluster together, put the 
 marmalade to it, and stir them well with 
 a wooden spoon till the apples begin to 
 boil, then take it off, and when a little 
 cool put it into pots, but do not cover 
 them until quite cold. 
 
 1599. OEANGE MARMALADE. 
 
 Blanch the rinds of fifteen oranges 
 without any of the white till soft, then 
 soak them in cold water for a few min- 
 utes, drain and pound them to a paste, 
 which rub through a sieve ; ascertain its 
 weight, and for each pound allow a 
 pound and a half of sugar ; clarify and 
 boil the sugar till the bubbles rise strong- 
 ly to the surface ; put in the paste and 
 boil them together, stirring continually 
 till the marmalade is done. To know 
 when the marmalade is fit to turn out 
 and be potted, take some up between 
 your thumb and finger, and if on opening 
 them it draws out like a thread it is 
 done. The Southerners use bitter 
 oranges. 
 
 Marmalades of raspberries, blackber- 
 ries, plums, grapes, &c. } are most in 
 favor. 
 
 JAMS. 
 
 1600. EASPBEEERY. 
 
 Take equal weights of fruit and moist 
 sugar ; put them on the fire together ; 
 keep stirring and breaking the fruit till 
 the sugar melts, then boil it till it will 
 jelly on a plate. 
 
 1601.-CHEEEY. 
 
 Stone four pounds of cherries, and put 
 them in a preserving-pan with two pounds 
 of fine white sugar and a pint of red- 
 
 currant juice. Boil the whole together 
 rather fast, until it stiffens, and then put 
 it into pots for use. 
 
 1602. BLACKBEEEY. 
 
 In families where there are many 
 children, there is no preparation of fruit 
 so wholesome, so cheap, and so much ad- 
 mired, as this homely conserve. The 
 fruit should be clean- picked in dry 
 weather, and to every pound of berries 
 put half a pound of coarse brown sugar ; 
 boil the whole together for three-quarters 
 of an hour or one hour, stirring it well 
 the whole time. Put it in pots like any 
 other preserve, and it will be found most 
 useful in families, as it may be given to 
 children instead of medicine. 
 
 Compotes of fruit are made by prepar- 
 ing a syrup, and simmering the fruit in 
 it two or three minutes, then pouring 
 the syrup over, after it is boiled down a 
 little ; a delicate light jelly is thus formed 
 round the fruit. Not more than half the 
 weight of the fruit in sugar, or even a less 
 proportion, is used. The dish is a nice 
 one for desserts, but will not keep. All 
 kinds of fresh fruit may be thus pre- 
 pared. 
 
 1603. TO PEESEEVE OEANGES OE LEMONS 
 IN JELLY. 
 
 Cut a hole at the stalk the size of a 
 shilling, and with a small blunt knife 
 scrape out the pulp quite clear, without 
 cutting the rind, and lay them in spring 
 water two days, changing it twice a day j 
 in the last, boil them tender on a slow 
 fire, keeping them covered to the last. 
 To every pound of fruit take two pounds 
 of double-refined sugar and one pint of 
 water ; boil the two latter together with 
 the juice of the orange to a syrup, and 
 clarify it ; skim well and let it stand to 
 be cold ; then boil the fruit in the syrup 
 half an hour ; if not clear, do this daily 
 till they are done. 
 
506 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPEE. 
 
 1604 TO PEESEEVE LEMON PEEL. 
 
 Squeeze the juice out of the lemons, 
 put the rinds, with the pulps, into water, 
 and let them remain a fortnight, taking 
 care always to have them covered with 
 the same water ; then take out the pulp, 
 and boil the rinds in the water till they 
 can be pierced with a knitting needle ; 
 make a rich syrup of brown sugar pound 
 for pound of rinds and pour it boiling 
 over them ; cover close for three weeks, 
 then give them a second boil in the 
 syrup, and cover for use. 
 
 1605. BAEBEEEY CAKES. 
 
 Pick the barberries and weigh them ; 
 to every pound of fruit add one pound 
 of sugar pounded and sifted. Bruise the 
 barberries in a mortar, boil them gently 
 till nearly all the juice is consumed, then 
 take them off the fire and stir in the 
 sugar by degrees j drop the fruit on ear- 
 then dishes to dry : it must not go over 
 the fire after the sugar is put in, nor 
 must there be any water used. Do not 
 pound the barberries too small, as the 
 cakes will not look so well. 
 
 Currant cakes may be made in the 
 same way. 
 
 1606.-EASPBEEET CAKES. 
 
 Take any quantity of fruit you please, 
 weigh and boil it, and when mashed, and 
 the liquor is washed, add as much sugar 
 as was equal in weight to the raw fruit. 
 Mix it very well off the fire till the 
 whole is dissolved, then lay it on plates, 
 and dry it in the sun. "When the top 
 part dries cut it off into small cakes, and 
 turn them on a fresh plate. When dry, 
 put the whole in boxes with layers of 
 paper. 
 
 1607. BEANDY CHEEEIES. 
 
 Get the largest morel cherries you 
 can, cut off half of the stalk, pricking 
 each cherry with a needle, putting them as 
 
 you do them into a high glass ; add three 
 quarters of the weight in white candy 
 sugar bruised between until full, a gill of 
 Noyeau, and then fill up with French 
 brandy ; tie a bladder over the bottle. 
 
 1608. CHEEEIES IN BEANDY. 
 
 Choose the finest and ripest cherries, 
 leave on half the stalks, wash and weigh 
 them ; to every pound of fruit allow a 
 quarter of a pound of sugar ; when you 
 have clarified and boiled it, put in the 
 fruit, boil them up two or three times, 
 then put the cherries into bottles, or 
 glass jars ; when filled, add to each twelve 
 cloves and half an ounce of cinnamon 
 tied in a linen bag, put to the sugar 
 when nearly cold, brandy in proportion 
 of a pint and a half to a pound of fruit, 
 mix them together well, and pour them 
 on the cherries. In two months' time 
 taste them, and if sufficiently flavored, 
 take out the cloves and cinnamon ; cover 
 the jars close. 
 
 Plums, apricots, &c. 5 can be done the 
 same way. 
 
 1609.-MOCK PEESEEVED GINGER. ] * 
 
 Boil, as if for the table, small, tender, 
 white carrots; scrape them until free 
 from all spots, and take out the hearts. 
 Steep them in spring water, changing it 
 every day, until all vegetable flavor has 
 left them. To every pound of carrot so 
 prepared, add one quart of water, two 
 pounds of loaf-sugar, two ounces of whole 
 ginger, and the shred rind of a lemon. 
 Boil for a quarter of an hour every day, 
 until the carrots are clear ; and, when 
 nearly done, add red pepper to taste. This 
 will be found equal to West India pre- 
 served ginger. 
 
 1610. YANKEE APPLE BUTTEE. 
 
 Boil cider down one half; put in as 
 many apples as the liquor will contain, 
 stew them soft ; then take them out and 
 
TO KEEP FRUIT FRESH. 
 
 507 
 
 put in fresh apples. "When they are 
 cold boil them again in the cider till 
 they are pulpy and thick. Add different 
 kinds of spice, a little before it is done. 
 Keep in covered jars. 
 
 1611. CEANBEERY SAUCE. 
 
 Simmer the berries in a very little 
 water, till very thick and pulpy ; sweeten 
 to taste ; they will require as much as 
 preserves; strain the marmalade into a 
 mould. 
 
 1612. TO KEEP PEACHES FEESH. 
 
 Pare and halve your peaches, have 
 your cans perfectly dry, set one at a time 
 in a bain marie in boiling water, to drive 
 out the air. Fill the can as full as you 
 can without bruising the fruit; if you 
 have plenty of fruit, boil some in a very 
 little water, fill the can with it and seal 
 it immediately. Do not put any sugar 
 in the peaches or juice. If you have not 
 much fruit, a little boiling water will do, 
 as each can will hold but a few spoonfuls. 
 Do not let it boil until it becomes 
 colored. 
 
 Any fruit or vegetables may be pre- 
 served in the same manner. Inspect the 
 cans daily, and if the tops bulge out, be 
 sure the sealing has not been perfect, 
 and fermentation has begun. Then 
 open the can, use the article, and put 
 up a fresh quantity. To open the can, 
 set it in the oven, till the cement is 
 soft ; then lift out the cover, and let 
 the can cool. To open glass jars, hold 
 a flat-iron, heated, on the cover till the 
 cement softens. 
 
 Butter may be kept unchanged for 
 years in air-tight vessels, as sweet as if 
 fresh from the dairy. To insure means 
 in excluding the air, it is best to fill the 
 vessel nearly full of well worked fresh 
 butter, allowing room for a thin layer of 
 salt ; over this lay a piece of white paper ; 
 pour on the paper half a teaspoonful of 
 spirits of wine ; set it on fire ; hold the 
 
 cover over the flame for an instant, and 
 if you have spirits enough, it will furnish 
 heat for the cover, then put it into place 
 while the spirits are burning. 
 
 Or, powder two pounds fine salt, one 
 pound loaf-sugar, and half a pound of 
 saltpetre. Sift these ingredients over a 
 large sheet of paper, and mix them well ; 
 then keep them covered close in a jar in 
 a dry place. When the butter is well 
 worked and salted, and ready to go into 
 jars, use one ounce of this composition 
 to every pound of butter. "Work it well 
 into the mass. In a month place the 
 butter thus prepared into jars or else 
 lay a cloth over the butler ; on this put a 
 layer of salt, with a piece of white paper 
 on the salt ; pour a little spirits on the 
 paper, set fire to it, and seal as above di- 
 rected. 
 
 1613. TO KEEP TOMATOES. 
 
 Peel the tomatoes, and put them in a 
 kettle over the fire till they boil for ten 
 or fifteen minutes. They are then ready 
 for sealing. The half-gallon or gallon 
 sized cans are the best for the purpose. 
 Fill one with the hot tomatoes, wipe off 
 from the cement any juice, and put on 
 the cover. The contents of the can will 
 so heat the cover, that it is only neces- 
 sary to press it firmly into place. "When 
 first closed, as the confined steam is 
 elastic, it will rise up, and a weight, say 
 of five or six pounds, must be used to 
 keep it down ; or a piece of ice may be 
 laid on it, which will condense the steam 
 within. If the can is larger than the 
 weight, put a board on first. When the 
 cans are cold, if the sealing is perfect, the 
 tops and bottoms will be concave. If 
 the cement of the cover should not be 
 sufficiently melted, hold on the top a 
 heated flat-iron, till the cover goes down 
 into its place. 
 
 1614 TO PEESEEYE GEEEN CORN. 
 Fill a strong tin canister with the corn, 
 solder it tightly, place it in boiling 
 
508 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 water, and allow it to remain several 
 hours. The top and bottom will swell, 
 and the can may burst (if not strongly 
 made) with the confined steam. Some 
 puncture the vessel, and when the steam 
 escapes, solder up the opening. Others 
 do not consider this necessary; or if the 
 vessel, tightly covered, is cooked a long 
 time in a bath of brine, in which a higher 
 temperature may be obtained than in 
 water, and then sealed hermetically, the 
 vegetable will keep. 
 
 1615. TO CLAEIFT SUGAR. 
 
 Take the quantity of fine white loaf 
 sugar you intend to clarify, add to it of 
 very clean warm water, half a pint for 
 every pound ; when dissolved add to it 
 the white of one or two eggs as the 
 quantity may require well whipped ; 
 put it on the fire, and when it comes to 
 a boil pour into it an ordinary teacupful 
 of cold water ; on its rising again to a 
 boil, remove it, and let it settle for 
 twenty minutes, skim the scum from the 
 top, pour off the syrup into a clean ves- 
 sel with sufficient quickness to leave all 
 the sediment at the bottom, and such 
 steadiness as to prevent any of the lat- 
 ter rising and mixing with it. 
 
 161T.-TO BOIL SUGAR FOR BASKETS OR 
 SPINNING. 
 
 Fill quite full a pint and a half stew- 
 pan with pieces of lump sugar, fill the 
 stewpan with clear spring water, let the 
 water barely cover the sugar, put it on to 
 boil, skim it all the time that any scum 
 arises ; let it boil fast with the stewpan 
 flat upon the fire, not halfway ; it will 
 not boil over if your fire is regular. 
 Then get ready a large basin of cold 
 water, and when it has boiled some time 
 and begins to appear all froth or bladders 
 do not go away and leave it ; after hav- 
 ing boiled so for some few minutes, have 
 a silver spoon and dip it into it, and then 
 
 into the water ; if it is getting to a sub- 
 stance pour in the juice of half a lemon, 
 free from pips, still keeping it boiling on 
 the fire; keep frequently trying it by 
 dropping and spinning a little in the cold 
 water, and when it makes a crackling 
 noise, and is very brittle, take off your 
 stewpan and pour it into a cold stewpan ; 
 work it well with your spoon, give it one 
 more boil, then take it off and hold the 
 stewpan in cold water, stirring it all the 
 time, for a minute or two ; it is then 
 ready for a basket, or spinning, or what 
 you may require it for. It is but very 
 little used now for second courses ; at 
 breakfasts and ball suppers it is gener- 
 ally introduced and liked, but it too fre- 
 quently answers the purpose of lock and 
 key, saying as much, as '" this must not be 
 touched j " many think it will do again, 
 and do not like to break through it, 
 
 The various purposes to which sugar 
 is applied require it to be in different 
 states; these are called degrees. They 
 extend to the number of thirteen, and 
 are named in the following order : 
 
 Petit Lisse, or First degree. Replace 
 the clarified sugar in the preserving-pan 
 to boil gently, take a drop of it on the 
 thumb, touch it with the forefinger ; if 
 on opening them it draws to a fine thread, 
 and in breaking forms two drops on each 
 finger, it is at the right point. 
 
 Lisse, Second degree. A little more 
 boiling brings it to this point, when the 
 thread will draw further before it breaks. 
 
 Petit Perle, Third degree. At this 
 point the thread may be drawn as far as 
 the span will open without breaking. 
 
 Grand Perle, Fourth degree. On still 
 increasing the boiling, little raised balls 
 are formed on the surface of the sugar. 
 
 Petit Queue de Cochon, Fifth degree. 
 
 Take up some of the sugar on a skim- 
 mer, and drop it on the rest, when it 
 should form a slanting streak on the sur- 
 face. 
 
 Grande Queue de Cochon, Sixth de- 
 
TO CANDY FKUIT. 
 
 509 
 
 gree. Boil it jet a little longer; the 
 streak or tail is now larger, and it has 
 reached this point. 
 
 Souffle, 'Seventh degree. Take out a 
 skimmerful of the sugar, blow through 
 it and small sparks of sugar will fly 
 from it. 
 
 Petit Plume, Eighth degree The 
 
 same proof as above ; the sparks should 
 be larger and stronger. 
 
 Grande Plume, Ninth degree. Take 
 the sugar in the skimmer as before ; give 
 it a shake, and if the sparks are large, 
 and adhere together on rising, it is at the 
 right point. 
 
 Petit Boulet, Tenth degree. Dip your 
 fingers in cold water, and then into the 
 sugar instantly, and again into the water, 
 when the sugar will roll into, a ball 
 which will be supple when cold. 
 
 Qros Boulet, Eleventh degree. At this 
 point the ball or bullet will be harder 
 when cold than the last. 
 
 Casse, Twelfth degree. Prove as above ; 
 the bullet should crumble between the 
 fingers, and on biting will stick to the 
 teeth. 
 
 Caramel, Thirteenth degree. At this 
 point it should snap clean when bitten. 
 This point is very difficult to attain, for 
 in increasing the height, the sugar is apt 
 to burn ; it is better, therefore, to try the 
 proof very frequently. 
 
 Another caramel is much used by the 
 confectioner, and is of a deep color ; it is 
 made by putting a little water to the 
 sugar, and boiling it without skimming 
 or otherwise touching the sugar till of 
 the right color, then take it off, and use 
 immediately. 
 
 If on preparing the sugar, you happen 
 to miss the right point, add a little cold 
 water, and boil once more. 
 
 The skimmer should never be left in 
 the preserving-pan after the sugar is clari- 
 fied, nor after the scum is removed. 
 
 Be very careful not to stir or disturb 
 
 the sugar, as that would cause its dim- 
 inution. 
 
 In boiling the sugar, particularly the 
 two last degrees, the sugar is continu- 
 ously rising and falling, and on falling 
 leaves marks on the side of the pan, 
 which the heat of the fire would soon 
 burn and thereby spoil the whole of the 
 sugar. To avoid this have a sponge with 
 cold water, and wipe the sides of the pan 
 the instant the sugar has fallen. 
 
 1617. TO CANDY FEUIT. 
 
 Having prepared your fruit, steep it in 
 the syrup, and lay it as done in an open 
 sieve, until the bottom is covered with 
 one layer ; steep this suddenly in scald- 
 ing water. This will remove any syrup 
 which may cling to the fruit. Lay them 
 aside on a napkin to drain, and go on 
 with the others. You will have ready, 
 finely-powdered, some of the best loaf 
 sugar ; sift this over the fruit until they 
 are white all over, without being to 
 thickly encrusted ; lay them so as not to 
 touch each other, on strainers or the 
 reverse end of small sieves ; place them 
 in a gently-warmed oven, watch them 
 carefully, turning them until dry. The 
 warmth of < the oven must not be in- 
 creased, but must not abate until the 
 fruit is quite dry. 
 
 Almonds. Blanch any quantity of 
 almonds, then fry them in butter till they 
 are of a light brown color ; wipe them 
 nicely with a napkin, and put them into 
 a pan. Make a syrup of white sugar, 
 and boil it to a thread that is, until on 
 your taking a drop of the sugar between 
 the finger and thumb it will produce a 
 thread ; care must be taken to boil it to 
 the exact candying-point ; pour it boil- 
 ing-hot upon the almonds, and stir them 
 till they are quite cold. This is an ex- 
 cellent method of preparing almonds for 
 dessert. 
 
510 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 Bon-fions. Clear off the sugar from 
 fresh candied citron or orange-rind, cut 
 it into squares one inch thick, stick them 
 singly on a bit of thin wire, and dip 
 them into liquid barley-sugar ; rub a dish 
 with a few drops of pure salad oil, and 
 lay the fruit upon this to cool. They 
 should be kept in tin canisters in a very 
 diy place. 
 
 Toffie. Melt in a stewpan three ounces 
 of fresh butter, add one pound of good 
 moist sugar, stir it well over a gentle 
 fire, and let it boil about a quarter of an 
 hour, or till it cracks short between the 
 teeth like barley-sugar; then pour it 
 upon buttered dishes, and when nearly 
 cold mark it across in squares that it 
 may easily divide, or roll it into sticks. 
 When half-boiled, the grated rind of a 
 lemon or a teaspoonful of ground ginger 
 may be added. A few sliced almonds 
 may be added after it is poured upon the 
 dishes. 
 
 BEVEEAGES. 
 
 Louis XII., of France, first gave per- 
 mission to distil spirits on a large scale. 
 So terrific were the effects twenty years 
 afterwards, that Francis, his successor, 
 was obliged, for the safety of his sub- 
 jects, to enact a law, that the drunkard 
 who remained incorrigible, after severe 
 monitory punishments, should suffer am- 
 putation of the ears, and be banished 
 from the kingdom. How much more 
 wisely would Francis have acted, if, in- 
 stead of banishing the drunkard, he had 
 banished the pernicious material of 
 drunkenness! Take another example: 
 Sweden was a temperate country, ar- 
 dent spirits being, to a great extent, pre- 
 vented from coming into ordinary use. 
 In 1783, however, Gustavus, king of 
 Sweden, gave permission for opening 
 spirit shops in all the villages of his king- 
 
 dom. His object was to increase his 
 revenue, and that object he apparently 
 for a time accomplished ; for immediate- 
 ly ardent spirits were loaded with ficti- 
 tious excellences, by those who loved 
 them, and those who were interested in 
 their sale : the drinking of them, which 
 had formerly been carried on in secret, 
 now became respectable ; and the con- 
 sumption of them was greatly increased. 
 But mark the consequence; such was 
 the increase of drunkenness and crime, 
 of fatal accidents and premature mor- 
 tality, that the very same king who gave 
 the permission, was obliged, for the pre- 
 servation of his people, to withdraw it. 
 
 Spruce Beer. Allow an ounce of hops 
 and a spoonful of ginger to a gallon of 
 water. When well boiled, strain it, and 
 put in a pint of molasses and half an 
 ounce or less of the essence of spruce ; 
 when cool, add a teacup of yeast, and 
 put into a clean tight cask, and let it fer- 
 ment for a day or two, then bottle it for 
 use. You can boil the sprigs of spruce- 
 fir in room of the essence. 
 
 Ginger Beer. Fourteen gallons water, 
 fourteen pounds loaf sugar, four ounces 
 ginger, well pounded ; boil one hour, add 
 the whites of eight eggs beat up, and 
 take off the scum ; strain the liquor into 
 an earthen pan, let it stand till cold, then 
 put it into your cask with the peel of 
 fourteen lemons cut thin, and their juice 
 strained. Add half a spoonful of ale- 
 yeast on the top. Stop the vessel closely 
 for a fortnight. Then it may be bottled, 
 and in another fortnight will be fit for 
 use. 
 
 Another for Ginger Beer. One pound 
 sugar, one ounce ginger, one-half ounce 
 of cream of tartar, one lemon sliced. 
 Put all into a pan, pour over one and a 
 half gallons boiling water, and when 
 milk-warm put in a little yeast ; let it 
 stand all night to work ; bottle it ; and 
 in three days it is fit for use. 
 
BEVERAGES. 
 
 511 
 
 Lemonade. Three lemons to a pint of 
 water, makes strong lemonade ; sweeten 
 to your taste. 
 
 This is the best beverage for parties ; 
 cool, refreshing, pleasant, and salubrious. 
 
 Orangeade. Roll and press the juice 
 from the oranges, in the same way as 
 from lemons. It requires less sugar than 
 lemonade. The water must be pure and 
 cold, and then there can be nothing more 
 delicious than these two kinds of drink. 
 
 Currant Wine Gather the currants 
 
 when dry, extract the juice, either by 
 mashing and pressing the fruit, or put- 
 ting it in a jar, placed in boiling water ; 
 strain the juice, and for every gallon 
 allow one gallon of water and three 
 pounds of sugar. Dissolve the sugar in 
 the water, and take off the scum ; let it 
 cool, add it to the currant juice, and put 
 the mixture in a keg, but do not close it 
 tightly till it has ceased fermenting, 
 which will not be under a week. In 
 three or four weeks it may be bottled. 
 The white of an egg beaten, mixed with 
 a teaspoonful of cream of tartar, and 
 stirred into the liquid, makes the wine 
 look clear and bright. Some add a por- 
 tion of spirits. 
 
 Raspberry Vinegar. To two and a 
 half quarts of ripe raspberries put one 
 pint of the best vinegar. Bruise them 
 well, and let it stand three days. Strain 
 the juice through a bag, and add its 
 weight of sugar. Boil it, skim well, and 
 bottle it closely. 
 
 Syrup of Almonds. Blanch and pound 
 in a marble mortar one pound of sweet 
 and one ounce of bitter almo'nds ; adding 
 a spoonful or two of orange-flower water. 
 Mix a pint of rose water with one of pure 
 water, add it to the almonds, and pass 
 the whole through a lawn sieve. Then 
 boil three pints clarified syrup, and when 
 it boils put in the almonds, and let them 
 boil one minute. When cold put it into 
 Dottles, and cork it for use. 
 
 To make it for immediate -use, after 
 
 pounding the almonds, mix them with a 
 quart of water, one of milk, and one of 
 clarified syrup or capillaire, and pasa 
 through a sieve. 
 
 Valencia Wine. To each gallon of 
 goo(j spirits take the peel of eighteen 
 lemons; let them remain forty-eight 
 hours in the spirits ; then add the juice 
 with five quarts of cold spring water, 
 three pounds of loaf sugar, a quarter of 
 a pound of bitter almonds well blanched, 
 half a drachm of saffron, and two ounces 
 of ground ginger ; mix all together, and 
 pour over all three quarts new milk, 
 scalding hot, but not boiled ; let it stand 
 till next day, then run it through flannel, 
 like jelly. 
 
 Mead without fruit. Boil honey 
 three or four pounds to a gallon of 
 water for an hour, skimming carefully, 
 draining the skimmings, and returning 
 what runs through. When nearly cool, 
 stir in a teacupful of yeast for nine gal- 
 Ions, and let it ferment. Put it in a cool 
 cellar, and bottle in a year. 
 
 Currants and raspberry juice, orange 
 and lemon peel, spices and aromatic herbs 
 are often added to mead ; the last towards 
 the end of the fermentation, in a muslin 
 bag, weighed down with a piece of flint. 
 Six quarts of red currants and two of 
 black will do for twenty-five pounds of 
 honey. 
 
 Ratafias. Ratafias are liquors pre- 
 pared by infusing the juices and kernels 
 of fruit in strong spirit with sugar. For 
 the ratafia of cherries take two quarts 
 of rectified spirits of wine, add two 
 drachms beaten cinnamon, one of bruised 
 cloves, and one ounce bruised coriander 
 seeds. Cover and let them stand a week ; 
 then from rnorella and black heart cher- 
 ries press twelve pints of juice, add three 
 pounds powdered loaf sugar, and mix 
 with the spirit and spices j add half the 
 cherry stones, mashed in a mortar. 
 Closely cover the stone jar, containing 
 all these, and stir or shake it frequently. 
 
512 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 In two months pour it off; press and fil- 
 ter the residuum. Then put it into 
 bottles and cork it. 
 
 Ratafia. Blanch two ounces of peach 
 and apricot kernels, bruise and put them 
 into a bottle, and fill nearly up *with 
 brandy. Dissolve half a pound of white 
 sugar-candy in a cup of cold water, and 
 add to the brandy after it has stood a 
 month on the kernels, and they are 
 strained off; then filter through paper 
 and bottle for use. The distilled leaves 
 of peaches and nectarines, when the trees 
 are cut in the spring, are an excellent 
 substitute for ratafia in puddings. 
 
 Capillaire, is so called from being pre- 
 pared from a kind of fern called capillus 
 Generis, or maiden-hair ; but almost any 
 other fern may be substituted for it. A 
 syrup made from the Canada capillaire, 
 with maple sugar, is sold. 
 
 BEVERAGES COMPOSED PARTLY 
 OF FERMENTED LIQUORS. 
 
 Hot spiced wines were much in use till 
 the beginning of the sixteenth century ; 
 and some of these favorite compounds 
 were known by the names of ypocras, 
 sack, and clary. The first of these, which 
 took its name from the bag through 
 which it was strained, called by apothe- 
 caries " Hippocrates's sleeve," was made 
 either of white or red wine with aromatics, 
 such as ginger, cinnamon, aromatic seeds, 
 and sugar. Clary was made from clar- 
 et, with honey and aromatics ; and sack 
 from the wine of that name, a kind of 
 sherry. These were drunk as a " night 
 cap," and at the conclusion of a ban- 
 quet. Le Grand, in his u Vie privee des 
 Francois," observes that the poets of 
 the thirteenth century speak with rap- 
 ture of these delicious beverages ; and it is 
 said that they were highly esteemed in 
 convents and universities. A scale of 
 perfection was even observed : when the 
 compound was made of Bordeaux wine, 
 it was simply called Bishop; but re- 
 
 ceived the name of Cardinal when old 
 Rhine wine was used ; and rose to the 
 dignity of Pope when imperial Tokay 
 was employed. The vestiges of these 
 ancient mixtures may still be seen in our 
 mulled wine and bishop. 
 
 To mull Wine. Boil the spices (cin- 
 namon, nutmeg grated, cloves, and 
 mace) in any quantity approved, in half 
 a gill of water ; put to this a full pint of 
 port, with sugar to taste. Mix it well, 
 and serve hot with thin slips of toast or 
 rusks. Lemon or orange juice may be 
 added, and the water may be strained off 
 from the spices. Ale or Porter may l)e 
 mulled as above, and have toast or bis- 
 cuits put to them. Formerly the yolks 
 of eggs were mixed with mulled wine, as 
 in making custard or egg-caudle, and 
 many flavoring ingredients were employ- 
 ed which are now disused. 
 
 Bishop. The day before it is wanted, 
 grill over a clear, slow fire, of a pale 
 brown, three large, bitter oranges. PJace 
 them in a small punch-bowl that will 
 about hold them, and pour over them a 
 full half pint from a bottle of old Bor- 
 deaux wine, in which a pound and a 
 quarter of loaf sugar is dissolved. Cover 
 with a plate. When it is to be served 
 next day, cut and squeeze the oranges 
 into a small sieve placed above a jug, 
 containing the remainder of the bottle of 
 wine, previously made very hot ; add 
 more syrup if it is wanted. Serve hot in 
 large glasses, or in summer it may be 
 iced. Bishop is often made of Madeira 
 in England, and is perfumed with nut- 
 megs, bruised cloves, and mace. It 
 ought, however, to be made of old gen- 
 erous Bordeaux wine, or it fails of its 
 purpose as a tonic liqueur. It is reckon- 
 ed highly stomachic, and is served at 
 French dinners, savans and recherches, 
 either as the coup d'apres or after the 
 dessert. 
 
 The wassail l>owl of ancient times was 
 
BEVERAGES. 
 
 513 
 
 made of mild ale, well spiced and sweet- 
 ened ; and sometimes with eggs beat up 
 in it. 
 
 The ancient Ypocras was made of a 
 quart of red wine, an ounce of cinnamon, 
 half an ounce of ginger, a quarter of an 
 ounce of pepper, and half a pound of su- 
 gar, all put into a bag and infused in the 
 wine. 
 
 Cool Tankard. The composition of 
 this ancient beverage is of great variety. 
 The basis is home-brewed ale, spices, and 
 seasoning herbs. Some use cider instead 
 of ale. 
 
 Covered Pitcher. 
 
 Egg Flip. Heat a quart of good ale, 
 Jmd pour it into a pitcher ; in a similar 
 pitcher beat up three or four eggs with a 
 quarter of a pound of moist sugar, and 
 one or two glasses of rum or brandy, 
 flavoring it with nutmeg, ginger, and 
 grated lemon peel. When the ale is 
 quite hot, but not boiling, pour it 
 quickly in to the jug with the eggs, return 
 this back into the other jug, and thus 
 keep pouring the mixture backward and 
 forward from one jug to another, till the 
 whole is thoroughly incorporated, and as 
 smooth as cream. 
 
 Egg hot. This is made in the same 
 manner as the last, only there is no 
 spirits nor spices ; simply the egg, and 
 ale or beer, with sugar. 
 
 Ale Posset. Boil a pint of new milk 
 with a slice of toasted bread ; pour a 
 bottle of mild ale into a punch-bowl. 
 
 sweeten, and add spices, and then pour the 
 boiling milk over it. 
 
 Sack Posset. Boil some cream and 
 grated sweet biscuits ; add sugar, cinna- 
 mon, and nutmeg. Warm' some sherry, 
 and stir it into the cream ; then pour the 
 whole quickly from one vessel to another 
 until it be perfectly smooth ; or it may 
 be made with eggs beat up in milk in- 
 stead of the cream. 
 
 Punch is a beverage made of various 
 spirituous liquors or wine, hot water, the 
 acid juices of fruits, and sugar. It is con- 
 sidered to be very intoxicating ; but this 
 is probably because the spirit being 
 partly sheathed by the mucilaginous 
 juice and the sugar, its strength does not 
 appear to the taste so great as it really 
 is. Punch was almost universally drunk 
 among the middle classes about fifty or 
 sixty years ago. 
 
 English Punch. Rub the yellow rind 
 of a lemon with lump sugar ; put this 
 sugar into the punch-bowl, and squeeze 
 the lemon juice to it, add the spirits, 
 rum and brandy, in such proportions 
 as are preferred, incorporate the spirits 
 thoroughly with the sugar and lemon 
 before pouring in the boiling water, and 
 keep stirring the whole while this is 
 pouring : some add Madeira or sherry. 
 Punch is kept also cold in bottles, and in 
 summer is liked. It is frequently made 
 with whiskey. 
 
 Regent" 1 s Punch. A bottle of Cham- 
 pagne, a quarter of a pint of brandy, a 
 glassful of veritable Martinique : with 
 this mix a pint or more of a strong infu- 
 sion of the best green tea strained, and 
 capillaire or simple syrup to taste. 
 
 Norfolk Punch. Pare thirty-two 
 oranges, and the same number of lem- 
 ons ; infuse the peel for two days in 
 a large bottle or jar with a gallon of 
 brandy (or whiskey), a little reduced 
 in strength ; clarify in a gallon of 
 
THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 water four pounds of sugar ; when 
 cold, strain the brandy (which will now 
 be a tincture) to this ; add the juices 
 of the oranges and lemons, previously 
 strained and bottled, when the peel is 
 taken off ; cask the liquor, or put it in a 
 jar, and stop it well ; in six weeks it 
 may be gently poured, or drawn off, and 
 bottled. " A tincture of bruised nutmegs 
 and cloves may be added to this com- 
 pound ; this will keep any length of 
 time, and in any climate. 
 
 Victoria or 3%d Regiment Punch. 
 Take the peel of two dozen lemons, and 
 steep it for thirty-six hours in two quarts 
 of rum. Pour the juice of the lemons on 
 three pounds and a half of loaf sugar. 
 Add two quarts of brandy, and seven 
 quarts of cold water. 
 
 Mix these together, and add by degrees 
 two quarts of boiling milk, stirring it well. 
 Let it stand four hours. 
 
 Strain it two or three times through 
 a flannel jelly bag, till perfectly clear ; 
 bottle and cork it tight. Age improves 
 it very much. 
 
 Mills Punch. Mix wine or brandy 
 with milk ; sweeten to taste ; grate nut- 
 meg on it. 
 
 Wine Punch. Port wine, two pints ; 
 arrack, two pints ; the juice of twelve 
 lemons ; sugar, one pound ; hot water, 
 six pints. 
 
 Tea Punch. Hot tea, two pints ; ar- 
 rack, thirteen ounces ; sugar, four ounces ; 
 flavored by rubbing off the yellow peel of 
 the lemons. 
 
 French Punch. Out a lemon into thin 
 slices, taking out the seeds ; boil them in 
 water, and add a pinch of green tea, and 
 let it infuse five minutes ; strain the 
 whole, and add brandy and sugar suffi- 
 cient. 
 
 Auld Man's Milk of Scotland, or Egg- 
 nog of America. Beat the yolks and 
 whites of six eggs separately j put to the 
 
 beat yolks sugar and a quart of new 
 milk, or thin sweet cream ; add to this 
 rum, whiskey, or brandy, about half a 
 pint ; put in the whites of the eggs 
 whipped up, and stir the whole gently. 
 It may be flavored with nutmeg or rind 
 of lemon. 
 
 Sangaree is a kind of punch frequently 
 drunk in the West Indies, and is com- 
 posed of one-third Madeira or porter, and 
 two-thirds water, acidulated with lime 
 juice and sweetened with sugar. 
 
 Mulled Cider. Boil a quart of cider, 
 watered, if too strong, with cloves and 
 allspice. Beat six eggs, sweeten, and 
 add them to the boiling cider, with a 
 pint or more of cream. Pour the liquor 
 from one pitcher to another till it has a 
 fine froth, and serve it warm. 
 
 Cherry Bounce. Take twelve pounds 
 cherries, mashed, and mixed with three 
 pounds sugar : add two gallons whiskey. 
 Put it into a closed vessel, shake it often, 
 and let it stand four months before bot- 
 tling. 
 
 WINES AND LIQUEURS. 
 
 Ginger Wine. Take fourteen gallons 
 of water, six pounds of sugar, four ounces 
 of bruised ginger, and the whites of two 
 eggs, well beaten ; mix Ijiem, set on a 
 fire, boil it fifteen minutes, skim it well } 
 and when cold, pour it into an earthen 
 vessel, squeeze in the juice of four lemons, 
 and the rinds pared exceedingly thin, put 
 to it a teacupful of ale-yeast, let it work 
 for a day and a night, then turn it into a 
 cask, bung it up, and in a fortnight you 
 may bottle it off. 
 
 Blackberry Wine. Put some ripe 
 blackberries into a large vessel with a 
 cock in it; pour on as much boiling 
 water as will cover them, and as soon as 
 the heat will permit, bruise them well 
 with the hand till all the berries are 
 broken, cover them, and in about three 
 or four days, when the berries rise to the 
 
WINES. 
 
 515 
 
 top, draw off the clear part into another 
 vessel ; add to every ten quarts of the 
 liquor one pound of sugar, stir it well in, 
 and let it stand a week or ten days to 
 work. Draw it off through a jelly bag. 
 Steep four ounces of isinglass in a pint of 
 sweet wine for twelve hours, then boil it 
 slowly till dissolved, put it in a gallon of 
 the juice ; boil them together, then put 
 all together, let it stand a few days, and 
 bottle. 
 
 ^s.yj.5 ^^ 
 
 Water Cooler. 
 To preserve Ice twelve hours. 
 
 Cherry Wine. For every five pints of 
 this wine, take fifteen pounds of cherries, 
 and two of currants ; bruise them to- 
 gether, mix with them two-thirds of the 
 kernels, and put the whole of the cherries, 
 currants, and kernels into a barrel with 
 a quarter of a pound of sugar to every 
 pint of juice. The barrel must be quite 
 full ; cover the barrel w^th vine leaves 
 and sand above them, and let it stand un- 
 til it has done working, which will be in 
 about three weeks ; then stop it with a 
 bung, and in two months' time it may be 
 bottled. 
 
 Rhubarb Wine. The leaf stalks of 
 rhubarb cut in pieces as for tarts, and 
 bruised with a wooden mallet to express 
 the juice, will make a wine equal to 
 green gooseberry, and resembling cham- 
 pagne. 
 
 Wine made from mixed fruits. Take 
 cherries, raspberries, and black and white 
 
 currants of each an equal quantity. To 
 four pounds well bruised put one gallon 
 of water. Steep the mass three days 
 and nights, frequently stirring it in an 
 open vessel, then run it through a hair 
 sievej and to each gallon of liquor put 
 three pounds sugar. Let it stand again 
 three days and nights, stirred often and 
 skimming the top ; then turn it into a 
 cask, and let it ferment at the bunghole 
 two weeks. To every nine gallons put 
 one quart best brandy, and fasten down 
 the bung. If not soon clear stir in a 
 solution of isinglass, 
 
 Black Currant Wine (very fine). To 
 every three quarts of juice put the same 
 of water unboiled, and to every three 
 quarts of the liquor add three pounds of 
 very pure moist sugar ; put it into a 
 cask, reserving for a little filling up ; put 
 the cask in a warm dry room, and the 
 liquor will ferment of itself; skim off the 
 refuse when the fermentation shall be 
 over, and fill up with the reserved liquor ; 
 when it has ceased working pour three 
 quarts of brandy to forty quarts of wine ; 
 bung it close for nine months, then bottle 
 it, and drain the thick part through a 
 jelly-bag until it be clear, and bottle that ; 
 keep it ten or twelve months. This re- 
 cipe is most excellent. The wine will 
 keep for six years. 
 
 Gooseberry Wine. To every three 
 pounds of gooseberries put a pint of 
 spring water unboiled, having first bruis- 
 ed the fruit with the hands in a tub; 
 stir them very well ; let them stand a 
 whole day, then strain them off, and to 
 every three pounds of gooseberries add a 
 pint of water, and one pound of sugar 
 dissolved ; let it stand twenty -four hours 
 longer, then skim the head clean off, and 
 put the liquor into a vessel, and the scum 
 into a flannel bag, adding the liquor that 
 drains from it to that in the vessel ; let 
 it work two or three days before stop- 
 ping it up close, and allow it to stand 
 
516 
 
 THE PRACTICAL, HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 four months before it is bottled. When 
 it is drawn out of the cask it should not 
 be tapped too low. 
 
 Green Gooseberry Wine. Take thirty- 
 two quarts of unripe gooseberries of the 
 green kind, bruise them well, add thirty- 
 two quarts of cold water ; let them stand 
 for twenty- four hours ; drain the goose- 
 berries well from the liquor through a 
 sieve ; put three pounds and a half of 
 lump-sugar to every gallon of liquor ; put 
 it into a cask with a bottle of the best 
 gin ; let it stand six months, and then 
 bottle it. 
 
 Frontiniac. Boil eighteen pounds of 
 white sugar in six gallons of water with 
 two whites of eggs well beaten. Skim 
 it, and put in a quarter peck of elder- 
 flowers ; do not keep them on the fire ; 
 when nearly cold, stir it, and add six 
 spbonfuls of lemon-juice and four or five 
 of yeast; beat the whole well into the 
 liquor. Stir it every day, put six pounds 
 of the best raisins, stoned, into the cask, 
 and tun the wine. Stop it close, and 
 bottle it at the end of six months. This 
 wine requires keeping. 
 
 Elder Wine. Pour four quarts of 
 water upon eight quarts of berries, and 
 let it stand a day or two ; then boil it 
 for about an hour, strain it, and put three 
 pounds of moist sugar to every gallon of 
 wine ;" then add one ounce of cloves and 
 cinnamon, with two ounces of ginger ; 
 boil it again, and work it with a toast, 
 dipped in yeast. 
 
 Elder-flower Wine. Take twelve 
 pounds of loaf-sugar and six pounds of 
 the best raisins, cut small, and boil them 
 in six gallons of water for one hour. 
 Then take half a peck of elder-flowers, 
 when ready to shake ; put them into the 
 liquor, when it is nearly* cold, with four 
 table-spoonfuls of fresh yeast, and six of 
 lemon-juice. Let it work two days in 
 the tub, then strain it, put it into the 
 
 barrel, bung it up closely for two months, 
 and then bottle it. 
 
 These are excellent domestic wines, 
 generally taken mulled, with dry toast ; 
 and the flavor will be improved if, while 
 warming, a grating of nutmeg be added 
 
 Negus. One bottle of wine, half a 
 pound of sugar, and a lemon sliced. 
 Pour three pints of boiling water upon 
 this mixture, and grate nutmeg to the 
 taste. 
 
 Such is the common mode of making 
 negus ; for making a single tumblerful, 
 however, as many people prefer to do it 
 in their own way, perhaps a better plan 
 is to use only half the quantity of water, 
 poured boiling hot upon the wine already 
 sweetened and flavored with nutmeg; 
 but having in it also a large and very 
 thin cut rind of orange, which gives 
 it a very superior flavor, without any 
 portion of the acid. 
 
 The- negus may be made of either white 
 or red wine ; and, if drunk cold, is called 
 " sangaree." 
 
 The following is a French receipt: 
 One pound of cherries, four pounds of 
 currants, two pounds of black cherries ; 
 squeeze all together, then let it stand in 
 a cool cellar for three days ; put the juice 
 on the fire in a preserving-pan, and allow 
 it to bubble ; add sugar as for raspberry 
 vinegar, and bottle it. This makes a de- 
 licious summer* beverage. 
 
 Noyau. To three quarts of best bran- 
 dy or spirits put three pounds of white 
 sugar broken small, a quarter of an ounce 
 of cinnamon, the peel of two lemons and 
 juice of one, and eight ounces bittej al- 
 monds ; mix, and when the sugar is dis- 
 solved, pour in a pint of boiling milk. 
 Cover close, stir it every day for three 
 weeks, and filter it through a filtering 
 paper. It may be necessary to add a 
 little more spirits. 
 
 Elder Wine another way. To three 
 pounds of elderberries put one pound of 
 
PINK AND GRAPE CHAMPAGNE. 
 
 517 
 
 damsons, and to a nine-gallon cask put a 
 pint of sloes. Boil two gallons of water 
 with an ounce of hops for an hour and a 
 half; then put in sugar, such as four 
 pounds to five ' quarts of water ; keep 
 skimming as it rises, and then set it to 
 cool; boil the fruit for half an hour, 
 strain the juice, and put a quart of it to 
 every gallon of water ; then let it work 
 with yeast for three days ; put it in the 
 barrel and stop it close. The spice and 
 sugar to be put according to taste. When 
 the wine has stood six weeks put in four 
 pounds of stoned raisins. 
 
 Pink Champagne. Boil nine pounds 
 of lump-sugar in three gallons of water 
 for half an hour, skim it well, and pour 
 the liquor boiling hot over a gallon of red 
 and white currants picked, but not bruis- 
 ed. When nearly cold, put in a small 
 teacupful of yeast. Keep it working for 
 two days, then strain it through a hcjrse- 
 hair sieve, put it into a small cask with 
 half an ounce of isinglass. Have rather 
 more liquor than will fill the cask to fill 
 it up as it works over. In about a fort- 
 night bung it up. Let it stand till April ; 
 put into each bottle a lump of double- 
 refined sugar. Let the bottles remain 
 one day uncorked. Cork and wire them. 
 They must stand upright in the cellar ; 
 when wanted, put a few on their sides 
 for about a week. 
 
 Grape Champagne to equal foreign. 
 Gather the grapes when they are just 
 turning, or about half ripe. Pound them 
 in a tub, and to every quart of fruit put 
 two quarts of water. Let it stand in a 
 mash-tub for fourteen days, then draw it 
 off, and to every gallon of liquor add three 
 pounds of lump-sugar. When the sugar 
 is dissolved, cask it, and, after it has 
 done working, bung it down. In about 
 six months it will be fit to drink, when 
 it should be bottled, and the corks tied 
 down, or wired if it is to be kept more 
 than a year. 
 
 33 
 
 COOKEKY FOE THE SICK. 
 
 Invalid's Breakfast Set 
 
 IT may be necessary to premise that 
 a choice should be made of those things 
 most likely to agree with the patient, 
 and, as invalids require variety to indulge 
 their appetite, frequent changes should 
 be provided, but great simplicit} 7 " ob- 
 served in the preparation. Perhaps jel- 
 lies and meat broths, together with vari- 
 ous kinds of farinaceous food, are the 
 lightest on the stomach, as well as, gen- 
 erally speaking, the most nutritious. 
 
 A Good Jelly. Soak twelve shanks of 
 mutton four hours, then brush and scour 
 them very clean. Lay them in a sauce- 
 pan with three blades of mace, an onion, 
 twenty Jamaica and thirty or forty black 
 peppers, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a 
 crust of bread made very brown by 
 toasting. Pour three quarts of water to 
 them, and set them on a hot hearth close 
 covered ; let them simmer as gently as 
 possible for five hours, then strain it off, 
 and put it in a cold place. 
 
 This may have the addition of a pound 
 of beef, if approved, for flavor. It is a 
 remarkably good thing for people who 
 are weak. 
 
 Sheep's heads and trotters are also 
 good restoratives ; savory jelly may also 
 be made in the same manner, without 
 lemon, wine, or sugar, but flavored with 
 ham and spice. 
 
518 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 Dr. RatcliffPs Pork Jelly. Take a leg 
 of well-fed pork, just as cut up ; beat it, 
 and break the bone. Set it over a gentle 
 fire with three gallons of water, and 
 simmer to one. Let half an ounce of 
 mace and ^he same of nutmegs stew in 
 it. Strain through a fine sieve. When 
 cold, take off the fat. Give a coffee- 
 cupful the first and last thing, and at 
 noon, putting salt to taste. 
 
 Lambs' feet are very nutritious ; pur- 
 chase them ready cleaned ; lay them ten 
 minutes in boiling water, by doing 
 which you will be able to draw out the 
 leg-bone with facility ; then put them in 
 a stewpan (two would be sufficient), and 
 pour over a pint of water with which 
 you have mixed smoothly a table-spoon- 
 ful of flour, and half a tcaspoonful of salt ; 
 place them upon the fire, stirring fre- 
 quently until boiling, then add a small 
 onion, with celery, parsley, and parsnip ; 
 boil gently for two hours, and when done, 
 serve plain upon a plate, or with a little 
 melted butter and parsley poured over. 
 By using a little white broth from any 
 meat, instead of water, you make a deli- 
 cious soft soup, which may be partaken 
 of freely. 
 
 Calves' feet are dressed in the same 
 manner, but using a double proportion of 
 every thing, and stewing them double the 
 time ; they are served precisely the same. 
 
 Seal Essence of Beef. Take one 
 pound of beefsteak, cut it into thin 
 slices, which scrape fine ; put it into a 
 stewpan, and stir over the fire five or 
 ten minutes, until thoroughly warmed 
 through, then add half a pint of water, 
 cover the stewpan as tightly as possible, 
 and let it remain close to the fire or in a 
 warm oven for twenty minutes; then 
 pass it through a sieve, pressing the meat 
 with a spoon to extract all the essence. 
 
 Strengthening Jelly. Take two 
 pounds of gravy-beef, cut into small 
 pieces j put the pieces into a jar,- cover 
 
 close, and stand the jar in a saucepan of 
 water ; let it simmer from four to six 
 hours. This I have made from either 
 beef or veal. I have found it invaluable 
 in cases of sickness, and it will be found 
 that the real essence of the meat is ex- 
 tracted. 
 
 A Clear Broth that will keep long. 
 Put the mouse-round of beef, a knuckle- 
 bone of veal, and a few shanks of mut- 
 ton, into a deep pan, and cover close 
 with a dish or coarse crust ; bake till 
 the beef is done enough for eating with 
 only as much water as will cover it. 
 When the broth is cold, cover it close, 
 and keep it in a cool place. When it is 
 to be used, give what flavor may be best 
 liked. Co wheels make good broth. 
 
 For a quick-made Broth, take a bone 
 or two of a neck or loin of mutton, take 
 off the fat and skin, set it on the fire in 
 a small tin saucepan that has a cover, 
 with three-quarters of a pint of water, 
 the meat being first beaten and cut in 
 thin bits ; put a bit of thyme and pars- * 
 ley, and, if approved, a slice of onion. 
 Let it boil very quickly ; skim it ; take 
 off the cover if likely to be too weak, 
 else cover it. Half an hour is sufficient 
 for the whole process. 
 
 Lielig's Beef Tea. Chop a pound of 
 lean beef as fine as for sausage-meat . 
 mix with a pint of cold water put it 
 over a slow fire when it has boiled five 
 minutes^ strain through a coarse cloth. 
 Salt to taste. 
 
 Chicken Broth. Boil a chicken in a 
 quart of water till about three parts 
 cooked, or about a quarter of an hour ; 
 remove the skin and the rump, and put 
 it into the water it was boiled in, with a 
 slice of onion, ten white peppercorns, 
 and a blade of mace ; then simmer until 
 it has a good flavor. Beat a quarter of 
 an ounce of blanched sweet almonds 
 with a teaspoonful of water, till of a 
 
COOKEBY FOR THE SICK. 
 
 519 
 
 good consistence and fine, add this paste 
 to the broth, simmer for a minute, then 
 remove, strain, and set aside to get cold. 
 When quite cold, remove the fat, and 
 warm the broth again ; season with salt, 
 and serve in a broth basin, with toast 
 dice on a plate. 
 
 Panada is merely a preparation of 
 bread made up in various ways. 
 
 To make it in five minutes. Set a lit- 
 tle water on the fire with a glass of white 
 wine, some sugar, and a scrape of nut- 
 meg and lemon-peel: meanwhile grate 
 some crumbs of bread. The moment 
 the mixture boils up, keeping it still on 
 the fire, put the crumbs in, and let it boil 
 as fast as it can. When of a proper 
 thickness just to drink, take it off. 
 
 Or : Put to the water a bit of lemon- 
 peel, mix the crumbs in, and, when nearly 
 boiled enough, put some lemon or orange 
 syrup. Observe to boil all the ingre- 
 dients, for, if any be added after, the 
 panada will break and not jelly. 
 
 CJiitiken Panada. Boil a chicken till 
 about three parts ready in a quart of 
 water ; take off the skin, cut the white 
 meat off when cold, and put into a mar- 
 ble mortar : pound it to a paste with a 
 little of the water it was boiled in, sea- 
 son with salt, a grate of nutmeg, and the 
 least bit of lemon-peel. Boil gently for 
 a few minutes to the consistency you 
 like ; it should be such as you can drink, 
 though tolerably thick. 
 
 This conveys great nourishment in a 
 small compass. 
 
 Sippets. On an extremely hot plate 
 put two or three sippets of bread, and 
 pour over them some gravy from beef, 
 mutton, or veal, with which no butter 
 has been mixed. Sprinkle a little salt 
 over. 
 
 Port Wine Jelly. Melt in a little 
 warm water an ounce of isinglass ; stir it 
 into a pint of port wine, adding two 
 
 ounces of sugar-candy, an ounce of gum 
 arabic, and a nutmeg grated. Mix it all 
 well, and boil it ten minutes ; or till 
 every thing is thoroughly dissolved. 
 Then strain it through muslin, and set it 
 away to get cold. For rice, jelly, having* 
 picked and washed a quarter of a pound 
 of rice, mix it with half a pound of loaf 
 sugar, and just sufficient water to cover 
 it. Boil it till it becomes a glutinous 
 mass ; then strain it ; season it with 
 whatever may be thought proper, and 
 then let it stand to cool. 
 
 Caudle is made in various ways. Make 
 a fine smooth gruel of -half-grits ; strain 
 it when boiled well ; stir it at different 
 times till cold. When to be used, add 
 sugar, wine, and lemonpeel, with nutmeg. 
 Some like a spoonful of brandy besides the 
 wine ; others like lemon-juice. 
 
 Another. Into a pint of fine gruel> 
 not thick, put, while it is boiling-hot, the 
 yolk of an egg beaten with sugar, and 
 mixed with a large spoonful of cold 
 water, a glass of wine, and nutmeg. Mix 
 by degrees. It is very agreeable and 
 nourishing. Some like gruel with a 
 glass of table-beer, sugar, &c., with or 
 without a teaspoonful of brandy. 
 
 Dr. Boerhaave' 1 s Sweet Buttermilk. 
 Take the milk from the cow into a 
 small churn ; in ten minutes begin, and 
 churn till flakes of butter swim about 
 thick, and the milk appears thin and blue ; 
 strain it through a sieve. It should 
 form the patient's drink, with biscuits, 
 rusk, ripe and dried fruits, &c. 
 
 Flour Caudle. Into five large spoon- 
 fuls of water rub smooth one dessert- 
 spoonful of fine flour.' Set over the fire 
 five spoonfuls of new milk, and put two 
 bits of sugar into it ; the moment it boils 
 pour into it the flour and water, and stir 
 it over a slow fire twenty minutes. It is 
 a nourishing and gently astringent food. 
 This is an excellent food for babies who 
 have weak bowels. 
 
520 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 Apple Paste. Pare your apples and 
 cut them down. Weigh them, and allow 
 an equal quantity of white sugar ; put 
 them into a jar, and boil till quite soft. 
 Boil your sugar to a syrup, then drop in 
 v the apples with a teacupful of marmal- 
 ade and a little grated ginger ; let them 
 simmer ten minutes. Wet your shapes 
 with spirits, and dish them. They will 
 turn out firm, and keep for years. The 
 apples must leput into cold water as they 
 are pared. The proportion of water is a 
 breakfast cupful to two pounds of 
 sugar. 
 
 To Bake Apples. Sweet apples proper- 
 ly baked and eaten with milk are excel- 
 lent. The best method of baking tart 
 apples is, to take the fairest and largest in 
 size, wipe them clean if thin skinned, and 
 pare them if the skin is thick and tough. 
 Cut out the largest portion of the core 
 from one end, and place the fruit on well 
 glazed earthen dishes or pans, with the 
 end which has been cored upwards, and 
 fill the cavity with refined powdered 
 sugar. Then place them in the oven or 
 other apparatus for baking until sufficient- 
 ly cooked. Take them out and when 
 cold they are perfectly delicious. 
 
 Apple Tapioca (a new receipt for in- 
 valids). Pare, core, and quarter eight 
 apples ; take half a spoonful of tapioca ; 
 put it to soak and swell all night in the 
 water ; put in half a teacupful of white 
 sugar, and a little lemon-peel ; put this 
 into a stewpan and let the tapioca simmer 
 ten minutes, then put in the apples and 
 stew ten minutes more. When the 
 tapioca is clear, it will form a jelly around 
 the apples. 
 
 Chicken Jelly. For chicken jelly take 
 a large chicken, cut it up into very small 
 pieces, bruise the bones, and put the 
 whole into a stone jar with a cover that 
 will make it water-tight. Set the jar in 
 a large kettle of boiling water, and keep 
 it boiling for four hours. Then strain 
 
 off the liquid, and season it slightly with 
 salt, pepper, and mace; or with loaf- 
 sugar and lemon-juice, according to the 
 taste of the person for whom it is in- 
 tended. Return the fragments of the 
 chicken to the jar, and set it again in a 
 kettle of boiling water. You will find 
 that you can collect nearly as much jelly 
 by the second boiling. This jelly may be 
 made of an old fowl. 
 
 Baked Milk, Mix new milk with 
 buttermilk, in the proportion of a pint 
 of the former to a winegiassful of the 
 latter. Let it stand in a covered jar, be- 
 fore the fire, all night ; in the morning it 
 will be as thick as clotted cream. Pour 
 from one jar to another till it is again of 
 the consistency of new milk ; put it into 
 a stone bottle, tightly corked ; add a few 
 lumps of white sugar ; let it again stand 
 before the fire, (not too near,) for five or 
 six hours, it will then be ready to drink. 
 Care must be taken in opening the bottle, 
 as it sometimes effervesces. Besides 
 forming a very wholesome and strength- 
 ening drink, it is a most delicious and re- 
 freshing beverage in summer. Invalids 
 should take about a pint a day. If it is 
 at all acid, it has not been properly made, 
 and should not be taken. 
 
 Asses' 1 Milk far surpasses any imita- 
 tation of it that can be made. It should 
 be milked into a glass that is kept warm 
 by being in a basin of hot water. 
 
 The fixed air that it contains gives 
 some people a pain in the stomach. At 
 first a teaspoonful of rum may be taken 
 with it. but should only be put in the 
 moment it is to be swallowed. The ani- 
 mal should always be milked at the door. 
 
 Artificial Asses'* Milk. Mix two spoon- 
 fuls of boiling water, two of milk, and 
 an egg well beaten ; sweeten with pound- 
 ed white sugar-candy. This may be taken 
 twice or thrice a day. 
 
 Wine Whey. Stir into a pint of boil- 
 
COOKERY FOR THE SICK. 
 
 521 
 
 mg milk a couple of glasses of wine. Let 
 it boil a minute, then take it from the 
 fire, and let it remain till tne curd has 
 settled ; then turn off the whSy, and 
 sweeten it with white sugar. 
 
 Toast Water. Pare the crust off a 
 thin slice of stale bread, toast it brown 
 upon both sides, doing it equally and 
 slowly, that it may harden without being 
 burnt ; put it into a jug, and pour upon 
 it boiling water ; cover the jug with a 
 saucer, and set it in a cool place. 
 
 Rice Gruel. Put a large spoonful of 
 unground rice into six gills of boiling wa- 
 ter, with a stick of cinnamon or mace. 
 Strain it when boiled soft, and add half 
 a piat of new milk ; put in a tea-spoon- 
 ful of salt, and boil it a few minutes 
 longer. If you wish to make the gruel 
 of rice flour, mix a table-spoonful of it 
 smoothly, with three of cold water, and 
 stir it into a quart of boiling water. Let 
 it boil five or six minutes, stirring it 
 constantly. Season it with salt, a little 
 butter, and add, if you like, nutmeg and 
 white sugar. 
 
 Water Gruel. IVJix a couple of table- 
 spoonfuls of Indian' meal with one of 
 wheat flour, and sufficient cold water to 
 make a thick batter. If the gruel is 
 liked thick, stir it into a pint of boiling 
 water if liked, thin, more water will be 
 necessary. Season the gruel with salt, 
 and let it boil six or eight minutes, stir- 
 ring it frequently then take it from the 
 fire, put in a piece of wbutter, of the size 
 of a walnut, and pepper to the taste. 
 Turn it on toasted bread, cut in small 
 pieces. 
 
 Molasses Posset. Put into a saucepan 
 a pint of the best West India molasses, a 
 teaspoonful of powdered white ginger, 
 and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter. 
 Set it on hot coals, and simmer it slowly 
 for half an hour, stirring it frequently. 
 Do not let it come to a boil. Then stir 
 in the juice of two lemons, or two table- 
 spoonfuls of vinegar ; cover the pan, and 
 let it stand by the fire five minutes long- 
 er. This is good for a cold. Some of it 
 may be taken warm at once, and the re- 
 mainder kept at hand for occasional use. 
 
 Wine Posset. Boil some slices of 
 white bread in a pint of 'milk ; when soft 
 take it off the fire, and grate in some nut- 
 meg and a little sugar j pour it out, 
 put half a pint of sweet wine into it by 
 degrees, and serve it with toasted bread. 
 
 Balm Mint, and other Teas. These 
 are simple infusions, the strength of 
 which can only be regulated by the 
 taste. . They are made by putting- either 
 the fresh or the dried plants into boiling 
 water in a covered vessel, which should 
 be placed near the fire for an hour. The 
 young shoots both of balm and of mint 
 are to be preferred, on account of their 
 strong aromatic qualities. These infu- 
 sions may be drunk freely in feverish and 
 in various other complaints, in which di- 
 luents are recommended. Mint tea made 
 with the fresh leaves, is useful in allay- 
 ing nausea and vomiting. 
 
 Tapioca Jelly. Take four table-spoon- 
 fuls of tapioca rinse it thoroughly, then 
 soak it five hours, in cold water enough 
 to cover it. Seta pint of cold water on the 
 fire when it boils, mash and stir up the 
 tapioca that is in water, and mix it with 
 the boiling water. Let the whole sim- 
 mer gently, with a stick of cinnamon or 
 mace. When thick and clear, mix a 
 couple of table-spoonfuls of white sugar, 
 with half a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, 
 and half a glass of white wine stir it 
 into the jelly ; if not sweet enough, add 
 
522 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 more sugar, and turn the jelly into 
 cups. 
 
 Mulled Wine. Boil a pint of wine with 
 nutmeg, cloves, and sugar, serve it with 
 slices of toasted bread ; or, beat up the 
 yolks of four eggs with a little cold wine, 
 and mix them carefully with the hot 
 wine, pour it backwards and forwards 
 till it looks fine, heat it again over the 
 fife till it is tolerably thick, pour it back- 
 wards and forwards, and serve with 
 toasted bread as above. 
 
 Or, Boil some spice in 1 a little water 
 till the flavor is extracted, then add a 
 pint of port wine; with some sugar and 
 nutmeg. 
 
 Brandy Mixture. Mix a gill of brandy, 
 and the same quantity of cinnamon wa- 
 ter, with the yolks of two eggs, half an 
 ounce of powdered white sugar, and two 
 drops of oil of cinnamon. This is a valu- 
 able restorative in cases of extreme ex- 
 haustion, given at intervals of ten to fif- 
 teen minutes, in doses of from one to 
 three table-spoonfuls. 
 
 Sago Gruel. Macerate an ounce (or a 
 table-spoonful) of sago in a pint of 
 water for two hours, then boil for a 
 quarter of an hour, taking care to stir 
 it well ; sweeten with sugar, and add 
 lemon-juice, nutmeg, or ginger, and white 
 wine if allowed. 
 
 Caudle, York. Take a pint of new 
 milk, turn it with wine, then strain, and 
 put it into a saucepan with two blades of 
 mace, three slices of white bread, and a 
 little grated nutmeg. Boil over a slow 
 fire, then beat the yolks of four eggs, and 
 the whites of two ; stir into the caudle 
 to thicken, taking care to stir one way 
 for fear of curdling it j sweeten to taste, 
 and serve warm. 
 
 Flax-seed Lemonade. Boil some flax- 
 seed in water until it becomes a thick 
 syrup. To a table-spoonful of flax-seed 
 allow about two tumblers full of water. 
 
 Strain it through a cloth and mix with a 
 quarter of a pound of white sugar. Then 
 stir in a little lemon juice. This mix- 
 ture has frequently been very service- 
 able in relieving a cold. A little of it 
 may be taken whenever the cough is 
 troublesome. A little gum arabic added 
 to the syrup will be an improvement. 
 
 Cocoa. To two ounces of cocoa allow 
 a quart of water. Put it in a saucepan 
 and let it boil slowly for about an hour. 
 The cocoa shells boiled in this manner 
 will make a very pleasant beverage, and 
 will not be so rich as the ground cocoa. 
 
 Barley Water. Wash carefully two 
 ounces of barley and put it into a sauce- 
 pan with a quart of water and a few rai- 
 sins. Let it boil until the liquid is about 
 half diminished. Sweeten it and drink it 
 hfct. A little lemon-peel or some liquor- 
 ice root put in with the barley instead 
 of or with the raisins, and some sliced figs, 
 may please some tastes. When only 
 a drink is required, it is better to strain 
 the liquid ; but the boiled barley wih a 
 little sugar will make a very pleasing 
 variety for an invalid to eat instead of 
 rice. 
 
 Ground Rice Mills. Boil together two 
 table-spoonfuls of ground rice with a pint 
 of milk. Sweeten it according to your 
 taste, adding the juice of half a lemon. 
 Let the whole boil half an hour over a 
 moderate fire. Eat it warm. 
 
 Compound Camomile Tea. Twenty 
 camomile flowers, half the thin peel of 
 a lemon, four cloves : pour on them a 
 coffee cup of boiling water, cover and let 
 them stand all night. Strain the liquor 
 in the morning. A wine glass full may 
 be taken a little before breakfast. Dr. 
 Maton always recommended this, with a 
 teasptonful of salvolatile for indigestion. 
 
 Elder Flower Tea. Infuse the dried 
 flowers as common tea is made. A little 
 acid with sugar will make the taste plea- 
 sant. (To promote perspiration.) 
 
COOKEKT FOB THE SICK. 
 
 523 
 
 Dandelion and Parsley Tea. Wash 
 and scrape six dandelion roots and six 
 of parsley j pour on them a pint of boil- 
 ing water ; let it infuse three hours be- 
 fore the fire. A little salt or saltpetre 
 may be added. (Lady Gush prescribes 
 this in dropsy ; it acts on the kidneys.) 
 
 The flowers of any plant should be 
 dried in every case. 
 
 Rice Water. Boil a quarter of a pound 
 of rice in three pints of water till soft as 
 a paste, skimming it well. Strain the 
 liquor, and sweeten it with sugar or 
 honey. Apples or lemon peel may be 
 boiled with the rice, or lemon juice add- 
 ed. It is an excellent drink in cases of 
 diarrhoaa. 
 
 Cream of Tartar Water. Put a large 
 spoonful of cream of tartar into a quart 
 pitcher, with an ounce of gum arabic and 
 thin lemon peel. Pour boiling water on 
 it, and let it stand some hours j sweeten 
 to taste. 
 
 Imperial may be made with two ounces 
 cream of tartar and the juice and peel of 
 two lemons ; put in a jar with seven 
 quarts of boiling water. When cold, 
 half a pint of spirits may be added to 
 keep it. Sweeten to taste and bottle it. 
 
 MarsJi Mallow Emulsion. Slice the 
 dried roots of marsh mallows, and boil four 
 ounces with one and a half ounce chop- 
 ped raisins in a quart of water. When 
 it is boiled till there is a good sediment, 
 strain it, and sweeten with water. Add 
 water to taste. 
 
 Linseed Emulsion. One ounce lin- 
 seed, two drachms liquorice root sliced 
 and bruised ; a pint of boiling water. 
 Let it stand four Hours by the fire j then 
 strain it. 
 
 Rennet Whey. Infuse a piece of the 
 skin in a little boiling water, as for mak- 
 ing cheese ; let it stand an hour or two j 
 then put a table-spoonful to three pints 
 of new milk, warmed ; cover with a 
 
 cloth, and leave it until the curd is thick. 
 Press out and use the whey. 
 
 Iceland Moss Jelly. Wash and bruise 
 Iceland moss, and soak it all night ; dry 
 and boil it putting an ounce to a quart 
 till reduced to one-half the quantity of 
 water ; strain it through a sieve. Take 
 it with milk or wine, or flavored to taste. 
 Carageen, or Irish moss jelly can be 
 made the same way. 
 
 Blancmange. Take gelatine, or isin- 
 glass, two ounces to one and a half 
 pints water ; dissolve it, add a pint of 
 milk, and strain it ; flavor and sweeten 
 it, and let it boil up ; then turn it into a 
 mould. 
 
 Rice Blancmange. Boil as much 
 ground rice in a pint of milk as will 
 make it thick enough to turn out of a 
 mould, sweetening and flavoring it. A 
 sauce can be added of milk, cream, or 
 custard. 
 
 Somersetshire Fromity. Wash a quart 
 of wheat, and boil it soft ; add by degrees 
 two quarts new milk ; boil it till soft 
 and mixed ; then add the yolks of a few 
 eggs, well beaten, nutmeg, sugar, and a 
 little ginger, with currants or chopped 
 raisins, if approved for the invalid. 
 
 Baked Pears. Put into a pint of wa- 
 ter some mace, cinnamon, and a few 
 cloves ; boil them j add a pint of white 
 wine, and the juice of two oranges, and 
 sweeten with loaf sugar. Cut some 
 baking pears into halves or quarters ; put 
 them into the syrup, and then into a 
 moderately heated oven, or a stewpan 
 over the fire. Cover and cook them till 
 soft. Serve them with the liquor. They 
 will keep in jars. Pears are excellent 
 baked in molasses with a little water 
 added. 
 
 Millet Pudding. Wash the millet ; 
 simmer two table-spoonfuls with a little 
 butter in a pint and a half of milk. Two 
 or three beaten eggs may be added. The 
 
524 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 sugar and flavoring must be put in while 
 the milk is boiling. Bake or boil it. 
 
 Ground Rice Pudding. One and a 
 half pints new milk, with flavoring of 
 coriander seeds, cinnamon, lemon-peel, 
 and sugar. Boil a few minutes, strain it 
 upon two ounces ground rice and boil 
 twelve minutes. Add not quite an ounce 
 of fresh butter, a little salt, and three 
 beaten eggs. Bake in a dish or boil it. 
 
 Barley flour may be substituted for 
 the rice. 
 
 Calf s Feet Pudding. Calf's feet 
 minced, taking off the brown and fat, 
 one and a half suet minced, yolks of six 
 and whites of four eggs, the crumb of a 
 roll, a little sugar, and a few chopped 
 raisins. Add milk enough to moisten it, 
 and boil it eight or nine hours. Serve 
 with any sauce. 
 
 Marrow Pudding. One pint milk 
 boiled with cinnamon and lemon-peel, 
 with a pinch of salt, quarter of a pound 
 beef's marrow minced fine, slices of 
 citron and orange peel, grated nutmeg, 
 half a pound sponge cake, a little sugar, 
 a glass of wine or brandy, and two eggs. 
 Bake it. 
 
 Dr. Jophsorfs Soup. Cut into pieces a 
 pound of lean veal, the same of beef, with 
 water to cover them, in an earthen jar. 
 Tie it down, add salt, and simmer in a 
 water bath twenty-four hours. 
 
 Essence of Heat, or Glaize.Put two 
 pounds meat, of bird or animal, into a 
 bottle, and that into a pan of water. Let 
 it boil fifteen minutes. Strain the liquor 
 that comes out. It will keep in a skin, 
 and can be diluted for broths or gravies 
 or soups. 
 
 Marrow Toast. Boiled marrow spread 
 on toast with a little salt, is said to be 
 good in allaying vomiting from irritation, 
 after the operation of an emetic, or any 
 other cause. 
 
 Kedgeree. Boil soft a tea-cupful of 
 rice j chop a boiled whitefish to pieces, 
 
 take out the bones ; add the rice, with 
 three ounces of butter. Stir it on the 
 fire, and add salt and cayenne pepper, 
 with chopped hard boiled eggs. Serve 
 it dry and hot. 
 
 Ground Rice Paste. Boil a quarter 
 of a pound in a little water, strain and 
 beat it in a mortar with one egg, a small 
 lump of butter and a pinch of salt ; 
 mould the paste as for tarts, and bake 
 sweetmeats in it. 
 
 Arrow-Root Transparent Jelly. Put 
 a good teaspoonful of arrow-root into a 
 basin, which mix smoothly with two 
 spoonfuls of water, then add enough 
 boiling water to make it about the con- 
 sistency, of starch, stirring all the time ; 
 pour it into a stewpan. and stir over the 
 fire until it has boiled two minutes ; add 
 a little cream, a small -glass of wine, and 
 a little sugar, and serve. 
 
 Lemonade. Pour one quart of boiling 
 water on the rinds of six lemons, and let 
 it stand for three or four hours ; add the 
 juice of the lemons with three-quarters 
 of a pound of sugar ; simmer it well and 
 skim it ; then add another quart of boil- 
 ing water. Either run it through a jelly- 
 bag, or mix a glass of calf's-foot jelly, 
 which will make it rich. 
 
 Tamarind^ or Cranberry Juice, with 
 double the quantity of water, also form 
 a pleasant drink for an invalid, when ap- 
 proaching to convalescence. 
 
 Almond Water. Blanch five ounces 
 of sweet and two of bitter almonds, 
 pound them in a mortar, adding a few 
 drops of water occasionally, to prevent 
 their becoming oily, set a pint of syrup 
 to boil, and throw in the mashed almonds; 
 boil all together a minute, then set it at 
 the corner to simmer for a quarter of an 
 lour ; it is then ready to pass through a 
 ine sieve for use. When required, add 
 any quantity of cold water, according to 
 taste or direction, to make it palatable. 
 
 Lait de Poutej (French remedy for 
 
COOKERY FOR THE SICK. 
 
 525 
 
 colds.) This may be made from any 
 broth. Break a fresh egg, separate the 
 white from the yolk, put the yolk in a 
 basin, with a wine-glassful of good cream 
 or milk, which mix well with a spoon ; 
 have half a pint of broth boiling, which 
 pour gradually over the egg and cream, 
 mixing it (as you pour the broth) with a 
 wooden spoon; it is then ready, and 
 ought to be taken when going to bed. 
 
 Sweet Lait de Poule. This is also 
 reckoned very good for a cold. Put two 
 yolks of eggs into a cup, with two tea- 
 spoonfuls of pounded sugar, part of the 
 rind of a fresh lemon grated ; beat them 
 well together for ten minutes, then pour 
 boiling water gradually over, keeping it 
 stirred until the cup is nearly full. Drink 
 this very hot when in bed. 
 
 Sago Fruit Pudding. A correspond- 
 ent of the Cottage Gardener says : 
 
 " Being forbidden the use of pastry, I 
 use rice and sago as substitutes, in the fol- 
 lowing manner : Boil a teacupful of sago 
 as thick as it can be made to boil without 
 burning: put about five table-spoonfuls 
 in the -bottom of a quart basin ; then a 
 layer of baked fruit of any sort (sweet- 
 ened), and fill the basin to the brim with 
 alternate layers of fruit and sago. Put it 
 in a cool place for some little time, and 
 it will become solid. It is best when 
 made shortly after breakfast, and al- 
 lowed to stand till wanted, to warm 
 either in an oven, over boiling water, 
 or before the fire with a plate turned 
 over it, for dinner. The sago boils 
 best when soaked in cold water for 
 a few hours before using ; rice is used in 
 exactly the same way. By way of change, 
 I sometimes line a basin with the rice or 
 sago, when very thick, and spread a thick 
 layer of the same over a large dinner 
 plate. When cold and stiff, I turn the 
 basin over it, and with a knife cut the 
 sago round the edge of the basin ; the 
 parings I put in the bottom of the basin, 
 
 and then fill with baked fruit, after 
 which I put the sago in the plate on the 
 top of the basin, to act as a cover. The 
 smooth side must be upwards. Eaten 
 with mock cream, made as follows, it is 
 delicious : Pour half a pint of boiling 
 milk on a teaspoonful of arrowroot, well 
 mixed with a small quantity of milk ; 
 stir the mixture well, and have the white 
 of an egg well beaten, and when about half 
 cold add it, and placing the whole over 
 the fire, stir till it nearly boils, then 
 strain for use." 
 
 Tapioca Milk. Soak an ounce of tap- 
 ioca in a pint of cold water for half an 
 hour, pour off the water, and add a pint 
 and a half of good milk; boil slowly 
 until the tapioca is dissolved, then add 
 sugar, nutmeg, and a little white wine, if 
 not prohibited by the medical attendant. 
 
 Italian Cheese. To a pint of scalded 
 cream, whipped very smooth, add the 
 juice of three lemons, and the rind of 
 two sugar to taste ; let it stand for half 
 an hour, then whip till it is very thick, 
 tie it in a thin cloth, or a tin with holes 
 in it ; let it drain till next day, then turn 
 out. 
 
 Soyer's Curry Custard. Break tnree 
 whole eggs in a basin, and beat them up, 
 add a quart of milk, a little salt, a very 
 little sugar, and two teaspoonfuls of 
 curry paste ; bake in a dish or basin. 
 This is very light and nutritious. 
 
 For those who can afford it, roast a leg 
 of mutton, and when nearly done put a 
 hot dish under it, and with a sharp knife 
 make several deep incisions in every part 
 of it ; let it remain two minutes longer, 
 that all the gravy may fall into the dish ; 
 pour into a cup, take off the fat, and 
 give to the patient as may be required ; 
 the mutton will do for curry or hash for 
 the family. This may be called gigot de 
 mouton sacrifie ; but when life may al- 
 most depend upon this extravagance as 
 you may call it, the expense must not be 
 thought of. 
 
526 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 Decoction of Iceland Liverwort. An 
 ounce of liverwort must be carefully freed 
 from the moss, fragments of stalks, and 
 particles of dirt, with which it is fre- 
 quently mixed, by rubbing it between 
 the hands hi cold water. Then steep it 
 for two hours, in such quantity of cold 
 water as will completely cover it ; after 
 which it must be bruised, pounded, or 
 cut, and the steeping continued for three 
 or four days longer, in a fresh quantity 
 of boiling water, which when the steep- 
 ing is finished, must be strained off by 
 pressure. The liverwort is then to be 
 put into a quart of fresh water, and kept 
 boiling until the fluid be reduced two- 
 thirds, or to a pint and a quarter. When 
 strained and allowed to cool, it forms a 
 thick mucilage, free from any bitter 
 taste, and may be rendered very palat- 
 able by the addition of sugar and lemon- 
 juice ; or by white wine, in those cases 
 which permit the use of wine. 
 
 This decoction of liverwort is an ex- 
 cellent demulcent nutriment, in consump- 
 tion, dysentery, and in convalescence from 
 acute diseases, and particularly after the 
 whooping cough, in which case the bitter 
 need not be completely removed, as it 
 tends to invigorate the digestive organs. 
 
 Vermicelli au Lait. Boil a pint of 
 milk, and when boiling, add sufficient 
 vermicelli to make it about the proper 
 thickness ; it may be served quite plain 
 if required, o'r seasoned with sugar. 
 
 FOOD AND COOKERF FOR 
 CHILDREN. 
 
 The kinds of food to be given to very 
 young children should be of the simplest 
 description : besides cow's milk, diluted 
 with one-third part of water, arrow-root 
 and milk ; pearl sago boiled in water till 
 perfectly soft, and thinned with new 
 milk j rusks ; biscuit powder ; flour pre- 
 
 viously boiled like a pudding in a basin 
 till it is formed into a hard ball, from 
 which portions can be grated into milk, 
 and boiled in it till it thickens the milk, 
 are the chief ingredients used as food for 
 infants. 
 
 Rice, ~barley, and farina gruels, are 
 also used with advantage ; and as a change 
 in the diet of children is advisable when 
 they are occasionally indisposed, these 
 kinds of gruel may be found useful va- 
 rieties in the food of children. 
 
 Food which contains milk should never 
 be warmed over and over again, as is 
 sometimes done ; nor should it be suffer- 
 ed to remain, when cold, in metal uten- 
 sils ; if intended for future use, it should 
 be put into earthen-ware basins, and set 
 in a cold place ; but no food thus set by 
 for another day should have milk put 
 into it. 
 
 Nurse Lamp, with Tea Kettle to keep children's 
 food warm. 
 
 The nutriment of children, after the 
 completion of their first year and a half, 
 it will be necessary to increase in so- 
 lidity, and, if their appetite seems to de- 
 mand it, in quantity also. Their teeth 
 begin now to aid them in masticating 
 food, their limbs become firmer, and 
 carry their bodily exertions often to a 
 great extent; the degree of exercise 
 which healthy children voluntarily give 
 themselves, stimulates the digestive or- 
 gans, enabling them to receive and act 
 upon more solid nutriment. Having pre- 
 viously had animal food three or four 
 times a week, children may, in the second 
 year of their lives, safely eat it once 
 
CHILDREN'S FOOD. 
 
 527 
 
 every day meats being chosen for them 
 that are tender and nutritious. Roast 
 leef; mutton, either boiled, roasted, or 
 broiled ; chicJcens, some kinds of fish, 
 well-boiled vegetables, such as brocoli, 
 turnips, potatoes (the latter are best for 
 them when mashed with hot milk and a 
 little salt) ; simple compounds of egg and 
 milk ; fruits, baked or boiled ; ~bread well 
 made and baked, with small portions of 
 lutter ; these, with milk for breakfast 
 and supper, with water as beverage, are 
 the chief articles of wholesome food for 
 children as long as they continue under 
 nursery management. 
 
 The species of food we would not give 
 them consists of salted meats (beef, pork, 
 or bacon) ; of rich stews, ragouts, and 
 soups ; of fried fish, of pastry and con- 
 fectionery generally ; of cheese ; and of 
 beverages, tea, coflee, beer, and wine. Of 
 the two last mentioned, beer and wine, 
 we may remark that, in cases of delicate 
 health, they may be advantageously al- 
 lowed ; but they should always be given 
 under medical direction, for the stimulus 
 of fermented or spirituous liquors is not 
 in every case of debility beneficial ; some- 
 times the reverse ; neither ought children 
 to be allowed to drink much at a time of 
 any liquid, however mild and innocent it 
 may be. Too much liquid has a tendency 
 to create flatulency, and to distend the 
 bowels. It has been said that parents 
 accustoming their children to drink 
 water only, bestow a fortune upon them 
 of the value of which they will be sensi- 
 ble all the days of their life. 
 
 Children's meat should be minced as 
 small as possible. If too much trouble 
 is left to their feeble power of mastica- 
 ting, they will shun it by swallowing 
 their food unmasticated. For children 
 whose digestion is weak, it may even be 
 desirable to have their meat pounded. 
 
 French Pap. Put a table-spoonful of 
 flour into a pap saucepan, to which add 
 by degrees two gills of milk, mixing it 
 
 into a very smooth batter with a wooden 
 spoon ; place the saucepan upon the fire, 
 let it boil ten minutes, keeping it stirred 
 the whole time, or it is liable to burn or 
 become brown ; then add about half an 
 ounce of sugar and a little salt, put it 
 into a basin, and it is ready for use. A 
 little butter is also very good in it. It 
 may be made with dry rusk or cracker, 
 scalded merely in water, and beaten to a 
 pulp with a little sugar. 
 
 Infant's Food. Take a pound of the 
 best flour, tie it very tightly in a strong 
 cloth, and put it into a pan of boiling 
 water (in which put a plate to prevent 
 the cloth sticking to the bottom of the 
 pan). Boil it for three hours without al- 
 lowing it to go off the boil when coldish 
 untie the cloth, and scrape off the outside 
 of the ball : when to be used, grate down 
 the quantity required and break it with 
 cold water ; boil four or Jive minutes 
 only, and sweeten to the taste. Flour 
 prepared in this way is confidently re- 
 commended by an experienced sick nurse 
 as a soft and nutritious food for the 
 youngest infant, and will keep for a 
 month or more in its hard compact state. 
 Milk may be added when about to be 
 eaten, if. wished. 
 
 /Semoulina. Semoulina is very delicate 
 and glutinous j it is good in any kind of 
 broth or milk for invalids or children, of 
 easy digestion, and having also the ad- 
 vantage of being tolerably cheap and 
 quickly cooked. 
 
 Arrowroot. When broth is boiling, 
 put two teaspoonfuls of arrowroot into 
 a cup, which mix smoothly with a gill 
 of cold broth, or half ditto of water ; then 
 pour it into your boiling broth, which 
 keep stirring with a spoon ; let it simmer 
 ten minutes, and it is ready for use. 
 
 Calces for Children. Sugar and egg, 
 browned before the fire, or dropped 
 as fritters into a hot frying-pan, with- 
 out fat, will make them a nourishing 
 delicacy. 
 
528 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 Rice Pudding with Fruit. In a pint 
 of new milk put two large spoonfuls of 
 rice well washed ; then add two apples, 
 pared and quartered, or a few currants 
 or raisins. Simmer slowly till the rice 
 is very soft, then add one egg, beaten, 
 to bind it. Serve with cream and sugar. 
 
 To prepare Fruit for Children. A far 
 more wholesome way than in pies or pud- 
 dings, is to put apples sliced, or plums, 
 currants, gooseberries, &c., into a stone 
 jar, and sprinkle among them as much 
 sugar as necessary. Set the jar in an 
 oven or on a hearth, with a teacupful of 
 water to prevent the fruit from burning ; 
 or put the jar into a saucepan of water 
 till its contents be perfectly done. Slices 
 of bread or some rice may be put into 
 the jar, to eat with the fruit. 
 
 Rice and Apples. Core as many nice 
 apples as will fill the dish ; boil them in 
 light syrup ; prepare a quarter of a pound 
 of rice in milk, with sugar and salt ; put 
 some of the rice in the dish, and put in 
 the apples, and fill up the intervals with 
 rice, and bake it in the oven till it is a 
 fine color. 
 
 A nice Apple Galce for Children. 
 Grate some stale bread, and slice about 
 double the quantity of apples ; butter a 
 mould, and line it with sugar paste, and 
 strew in some crumbs, mixed with a 
 little sugar ; then lay in apples with a 
 few bits of butter over them, and so con- 
 tinue till the dish is full ; cover it with 
 crumbs, or prepared rice ; season with 
 cinnamon and sugar. Bake it well 
 Fruits that have seeds are much healthier 
 than stone fruits. But all fruits are 
 better, for very young children, if baked 
 or cooked in some manner, und eaten with 
 bread. The French always eat bread 
 with raw fruit. Apples and winter pears 
 are very excellent food for children, in- 
 deed, for almost any person in health ; 
 but best when eaten at breakfast or din- 
 ner. If taken late in the evening fruit 
 
 often proves injurious. The old saying 
 apples are gold in the morning, silver at 
 noon, and lead at night, is pretty near 
 the truth. Both apples and pears are 
 often good and nutritious when baked 
 or stewed, for those delicate constitutions 
 that cannot bear raw fruit. Much of the 
 fruit gathered when unripe, might be 
 rendered fit for food by preserving it in 
 sugar. 
 
 Ripe Currants are excellent food for 
 children. Mash the fruit, sprinkle with 
 sugar, and with good bread let them eat 
 of this fruit freely. 
 
 Blackberry Jam. Gather the fruit in 
 dry weather ; allow half a pound of good 
 brown sugar to every pound of fruit ; 
 boil the whole together gently for an 
 hour, or till the blackberries are soft, 
 stirring and mashing them well. Pre- 
 serve it like any other jam, and it will be 
 found very useful in families, particularly 
 for children regulating their bowels, and 
 enabling you to dispense with cathartics. 
 It may be spread on bread, or on pud- 
 dings, instead of butter : and even when 
 the blackberries are bought it is cheaper 
 than butter. In the country every family 
 should preserve, at least, half a peck of 
 blackberries. 
 
 Bread and Milk. Cut about two 
 ounces of any white bread into small thin 
 slices, and put them into a small basin or 
 a large breakfast cup. In a little saucepan 
 (only used for that purpose) have half ? 
 pint of milk ; when upon the point of 
 boiling, pour over the bread ; cover over 
 the cup five minutes, and it is ready for 
 use. 
 
 Porr idge. When children are delicate? 
 porridge is often preferable to bread and 
 milk. Put two table-spoonfuls of grits 
 or oatmeal in the milk saucepan, which 
 moisten with half a pint of milk; let it 
 boil ten minutes, keeping well stirred, 
 add a small piece of butter and a little 
 sugar, and it is ready for use. 
 
CHILDREN 8 FOOD. 
 
 529 
 
 Meats for Children. Mutton, lamb, 
 and poultry, are the best. Birds and 
 the white meat of fowls, are the most 
 delicate food of this kind that can be 
 given. These meats should be slowly 
 cooked, and no gravy, if made rich with 
 butter, should be eaten by a young 
 child. Never give children hard, tough, 
 half cooked meats, of any kind. 
 
 Vegetables for Children, Eggs, &c. 
 Their rice ought to be cooked in no more 
 water than is necessary to swell it ; their 
 apples roasted, or stewed with no more 
 water than is necessary to steam them ; 
 their vegetables so well cooked as to 
 make them require little butter, and less 
 digestion; their eggs boiled slow and 
 soft. The boiling of their milk ought to 
 be directed by the state of their bowels : 
 if flatulent or bilious, a very little curry- 
 powder may be given in their vegetables 
 with good eifect such as turmeric and 
 the warm seeds (not hot peppers), are 
 particularly useful in such cases. 
 
 Potatoes and Peas. Potatoes, partic- 
 ularly some kinds, are not easily digested 
 by children ; but this is easily remedied 
 by mashing them very fine, and seasoning 
 them with sugar and a little milk. When 
 peas are dressed for children, let them be 
 seasoned with mint and sugar, which 
 will take off' the flatulency. If they are 
 old, let them be pulped^as the skins are 
 perfectly indigestible by children's or 
 weak stomachs. Never give them vege- 
 tables less stewed than would pulp 
 through a colander. 
 
 Children's Diet for the day (Soyer). 
 Bread and milk for breakfast at eight ; 
 the dinner at one, as follows throughout 
 the week : roast mutton and apple pud- 
 ding ; roast beef and currant pudding, 
 baked apples ; boiled mutton with tur- 
 nips, after which rice or vermicelli pud- 
 ding ; occasionally with beef, suet dump- 
 lings, plain and with currants in them, 
 or pease pudding ; or if unwell, a little 
 
 veal or chicken-broth, or beef-tea. "When 
 in business, the first three years the chil- 
 dren used to dine with us at one, at a 
 side-table with their nurse. They then 
 had a little plain meat, cut small in their 
 plates, with potatoes, pieces of bread, and 
 gravy, after which, three times a week, 
 plain rice, bread, or other plain pudding, 
 or rhubarb or apple tart ; and, at five 
 o'clock, their bread and milk again, pre- 
 vious to going to bed. 
 
 But 1 should recommend for nursery- 
 maid and all : 
 
 First, about two pounds of mutton, 
 well cooked, but with the real gravy of the 
 meat in it, which will require abou{ one 
 hour before a moderate fire ; dredge it ten 
 minutes before being done 5 when taken 
 up and in the dish, sprinkle a little salt 
 over the meat, and pour over three or 
 four spoonfuls of hot water to make a 
 little light gravy. 
 
 Or, a few slices of roast beef, or a 
 small piece roasted on purpose; after 
 which a very plain currant pudding ; or, 
 occasionally, a little pickled pork, with 
 pease pudding ; or roast pork, with baked 
 apples ; and now and then a little salt 
 beef, but very well boiled, with suet 
 dumplings ; and occasionally, for change, 
 either bread, vermicelli, or tapioca pud- 
 dings; in case of illness, and with the 
 approbation of the doctor, veal, mutton, 
 or chicken-broth, sago, gruel, panada, &c. 
 
 SAYOEY DISHES FOE 
 BEEAKFAST. 
 
 Orillades. .Perhaps there is no better 
 grill for breakfast than a cold blade-bone 
 of mutton, off" which the greater part of 
 the meat has been already cut. The re- 
 maining parts should then be scored, and 
 the gashes filled with a mixture of mus- 
 tard, cayenne, common pepper, and salt, 
 as for a devil ; it should then be put upon 
 
530 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 the gridiron, and well browned, but not 
 burnt. It may be sent to table dry, 
 without any sauce, or served with gravy 
 mixed with capers. 
 
 The bones of cold fowl of all kinds are 
 also frequently brought thus to break- 
 fast. 
 
 Broiled Chicken. Split it open, pepper 
 it only on the inside, broil and serve it 
 with a very litfe butter, and accom- 
 panied with broiled mushrooms. 
 
 Kdbobs. Put thin slices of well-sea- 
 soned kidney and bacon, with beef or 
 mutton also if you please, upon skewers. 
 Have ready fine bread-crumbs, with a 
 slight grating of lemon, brush them over 
 with egg, and roll them into the .crumbs. 
 Hang up the skewers to roast, and put a 
 slice of toast under to secure the gravy : 
 when served, carefully remove the skew- 
 ers, and place the. " kabobs " on the 
 toast ; but, if only a quantity sufficient 
 to help one person be put on each skew- 
 er, then do not remove them. 
 
 If, instead of meat, an oyster be put 
 between each slice of bacon and kidney, 
 it will be found very superior. 
 
 Dried Salmon is likewise a good re- 
 lish ; and fresh mackerel^ split open 
 and broiled. 
 
 German Toast. Take the remainder 
 of any fricassee or ragout ; any quantity 
 will do ; chop it fine, add a little chop- 
 ped parsley, and a little bit of shalot or 
 chive : mix it up with one or two eg-gs 
 beaten, according to the quantity. Put 
 the whole with its gravy into a stewpan, 
 and let it reduce and thicken on the fire. 
 Let it remain until it be cold, then cut 
 pieces of bread, toast them : lay the mix- 
 ture thickly upon them. Boil an egg 
 hard, cut it into small pieces, and stick 
 them on the top ; brush the whole with 
 egg beaten up, sift bread-crumbs over, 
 and bake them in the oven; squeeze a 
 little lemon-juice on the top. This makes 
 also a good corner dish for dinner. 
 
 Vegetable Toast. Take any stewed 
 vegetable, and make it into a puree. Add 
 a little more seasoning, mix it up wfth 
 the yolk of an egg, and, if too thin, re- 
 duce and thicken it over the fire, then 
 spread it upon toast, brush it over with 
 beaten eggs, ajid bread-crumbs or vermi- 
 celli, and fry or bake them. 
 
 Anchovy Toast. Make a well-buttered 
 toast of brown bread, if you can get it ; 
 scale and bone a proper number of an- 
 chovies, with little or no washing ; cut 
 them into broad slices, and place them 
 upon the toast, seasoning it with mus- 
 tard, without pepper. 
 
 Sausage Toast. Fry two or three sau- 
 sages ; when quite hot, strip off the 
 skins, and spread the meat upon the 
 toast buttered with salt butter ; season 
 it with a little pepper and mustard. It 
 will be improved by a grating of old 
 cheese. 
 
 Kidney Toast. Take a cold veal kid- 
 ney, with a part of the fat, cut it into 
 very small pieces ; pound the fat in a 
 mortar with a little salt, white pepper 
 and an onion previously boiled. Bind al 
 together with the beaten whites of eggs. 
 Heap it upon toast ; cover the whole 
 with the yolks beaten ; dredge with 
 bread-crumbs, and bake in the oven. 
 
 Ham Toast. Grate or pound the cold 
 ham ; toast and butter a slice of bread ; 
 mix the ham witn* the yolk of an egg and 
 a little cream, until it is thick and rich ; 
 warm it over the fire, and serve it very 
 hot upon the toast. Tongue may be em- 
 ployed in the same way. 
 
 Scotch Woodcock. Toast and butter 
 three or four slices of bread on both 
 sides ; take nine <r or ten anchovies 
 washed, scraped, and chopped fine, and 
 put them between the slices of bread. 
 Beat the yolks of four eggs in half a pint 
 of cream, and set it on the fire to thicken, 
 but not to boil. Then pour it over the 
 toast, and send it to table as hot as pos- 
 sible. 
 
BREAKFAST DISHES. 
 
 531 
 
 Sheep's Sumps and Kidneys. Boil the 
 rumps in gravy, and lard the kidneys 
 with bacon; set them, along with the 
 rumps, before the fire in a small tin 
 oven, rubbing them at the same time 
 with yolk of egg and a little cayenne 
 and nutmeg. When of a light brown, 
 dish them up, either dry or with any 
 pungent sauce, and garnish them with 
 parsley. 
 
 Bacon Broiled. The streaked part of 
 a thick flank of bacon is to be preferred ; 
 cut nice slices, not above a quarter of an 
 inch thick, take off the rind, put to broil 
 on the gridiron over a clear fire ; turn it 
 three or four times in the space of five 
 minutes. Serve it very hot. If any re- 
 main after dinner of boiled bacon, it is 
 very good broiled or fried for next day's 
 breakfast. Broiled and boiled bacon has 
 been highly recommended to the dys- 
 peptic. 
 
 Devils of Biscuits. Butter them, on 
 both sides ; sprinkle cayenne pepper on 
 the top, and send them to be grilled 
 This may be varied by the addition of 
 chopped anchovies, or the essence, or 
 diavolo paste. 
 
 Or ; Make a slice of cheese into a 
 paste with made mustard, and lay it upon 
 one side. 
 
 A Dry Demi. Take the liver, gizzard, 
 drumstick, and sidebones of a fowl or 
 turkey ; score them ; lay on made mus- 
 tard very thickly, and add a quantity of 
 cayenne pepper and salt, and broil them. 
 
 A Wet Devil. Take any part of a tur- 
 key, goose, or fowl, cover it with mus- 
 tard, Chetney, diavolo paste, or any other 
 piquant condiment ; put a dessert spoon- 
 ful of cayenne pepper, one of pounded 
 white sugar, the juice of a lemon, a glass 
 of wine, and a glass of ketchup, to a tea- 
 cupful of gravy ; heat them together, 
 pour over the devilled fowl, and send up 
 very hot. 
 
 A little cold fresh butter will cool the 
 
 mouth, should the grill prove too power- 
 ful. 
 
 Devilled Game. Split a woodcock, a 
 snipe, a wild duck, or any other game 
 that is undone. To a teaspoonful of salt 
 add a dessert spoonful of cayenne pepper 
 with a tablespoonful of curry-powder, 
 and wet the whole with French mustard. 
 Cover the birds both inside and out with 
 this mixture. Take out the brains when 
 the head is split, and, if a woodcock, add 
 the trail ; make them into a paste with 
 the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, half a 
 blade of pounded mace, a saltspoouful of 
 grated lemon-peel, and season it with es- 
 sence of anchovies, ketchup, or other 
 sauce ; then add a glass of wine, a tea- 
 spoonful of cayenne pepper, a dessert- 
 spoonful of pounded white sugar, and the 
 juice of a lemon or orange. Roll a bit of 
 butter, the size of a walnut, in flour ; 
 put the birds and the sauce into a metal 
 dish over a lamp, cover it close, shake 
 it about occasionally, and when it has 
 stewed until the greater part of the sauce 
 has been imbibed, serve it round. The 
 legs of fowls, geese, and turkeys, may be 
 devilled the same way. 
 
 Mustard. No savory things are ever 
 brought to table without this indispensa- 
 ble accompaniment. 
 
 In making it, pure water is most gene- 
 rally used, with a pinch of salt and sugar, 
 though both are frequently omitted : but 
 a much better mode for preserving it, as 
 well as adding to it a good flavor, is to 
 make it of water in which horseradish 
 has been boiled. This costs no trouble ; 
 for if the horseradish be scraped and put 
 in a teacup with boiling water poured 
 upon it, and covered, the infusion will be 
 strong enough in little more than half 
 an hour. 
 
 The Parisian mustard, known as mou- 
 tarde de maille, is however much in 
 vogue among gastronomists, as possess- 
 ing a finer pungency of flavor, and may 
 
532 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 be imitated by mixing up the flour and a 
 little fine salt with salad oil, so as to form 
 a thick paste, then diluting it to a certain 
 degree with equal quantities of the vine- 
 gars of horseradish, tarragon, chili, and 
 garlic ; or sufficient of each to please the 
 palate. Cayenne should never be used, 
 and even chili vinegar but sparingly. 
 
 Sandwiches require more care than is 
 usually bestowed on them, for this rea- 
 son, that every one believes he can cut 
 sandwiches. Where any quantity is re- 
 quired the bread should be made on pur- 
 pose, and the baker should be desired to 
 bake it in tins, and either add ^ little 
 butter to it or raise it well before it is 
 put into the tins, so that it should not be 
 full of holes, as in that case too much but- 
 ter is used, and the sandwich becomes 
 disagreeable from being greasy. Out the 
 bread moderately thin, butter it very 
 slightly indeed, lay the meat cut thin, 
 season it with salt, peppar, and mustard, 
 as may be required : cover with a second 
 slice of bread, trim the edges, put them 
 one on the other, and cover with a damp 
 cloth until wanted.* 
 
 Where tongue is used it should be 
 boiled the day before, and, when tho- 
 roughly done, pressed in the mould in 
 which the bread is to be baked. 
 
 Chickens boned, and farced with a 
 small quantity of farce of veal and ham, 
 and treated in the same way, will make 
 excellent sandwiches. 
 
 Soyer recommends for breakfast also 
 Scrambled Eggs. Break three eggs 
 into a small stewpan, add a saltspoonful 
 of salt, a quarter of that quantity of pep- 
 per, and two ounces of fresh butter, (the 
 fresher the better ;) set the stewpan over 
 a moderate fire, and stir the eggs round 
 with a wooden spoon, being careful to 
 keep every particle in motion, until the 
 whole has become a smooth and delicate 
 thickish substance ; have ready a con- 
 venient-sized crisp piece of toast, pour 
 
 the eggs upon it, and serve immediately 
 Herring may be laid between the eggg 
 and toast. 
 
 Eggs au Beurre (a new Method.') 
 Let the eggs boil six minutes, then take 
 them out, dip them for two seconds in 
 cold water, crack and peel off the shells, 
 and lay them in a hot plate ; cut each egg 
 in halves lengthwise, spread a little fresh 
 butter, and sprinkle a little salt over the 
 interior, and eat them very hot. 
 
 The following articles for Brealcfasts 
 are popular in Spring and Summer : 
 Veal Cutlets Stewed or Fried Clams- 
 Cold Boiled Ham or Tongue Clam 
 Fritters Broiled Shad Broiled and 
 Fried Fish Stewed or Broiled Chickens 
 Minced Veal Pickled Salmon Fried 
 Sweet Potatoes Fried Egg Plant 
 Green Corn Fritters Stewed Pigeons 
 Broiled or Sliced Raw Tomatoes Hash- 
 balls Cucumbers Pepper Grass 
 Cresses Game Birds Eggs Omelets 
 of all kinds Tongue or Ham Toast 
 Rice Cakes Batter Cakes Ripe Fruits. 
 Jam, marmalade and honey are appro- 
 priate. 
 
 In Winter Additional. Stewed Pi- 
 geons with Mushrooms Stewed or Fried 
 Oysters Broiled and Stewed Fowl 
 Fried Egg Plant Pork Cheese Hashed 
 Poultry Deviled Gizzards Steaks 
 Chops Liver Pudding Fried Pigs' Feet 
 Venison Steaks Venison Pasty 
 Fried Smelts Minced Codfish Fish 
 Cakes Sausages Hot Cakes of all 
 kinds, Buckwheat and Flannel Cakes 
 especially ; also Hominy and Mush. 
 
 A celebrated cook says : When I was 
 first married and commencing business, 
 our means were limited : the following 
 was our system of living : 
 
 Sunday^s Dinner. Roast Beef, Po- 
 tatoes, Greens, and Yorkshire Pudding. 
 
 Monday. Hashed Beef, Potatoes, and 
 Bread Pudding. 
 
 Tuesday. Broiled Beef and Bones, 
 Vegetables and Apple Pudding. 
 
BILLS OF FAKE. 
 
 533 
 
 Wednesday. Fish, if cheap, Chops, 
 Vegetables, Pancakes. 
 
 Thursday. Boiled Pork, Pea Pud- 
 ding, Greens, and Rice Pudding. 
 
 Friday. Pea Soup, remains of Pork, 
 and Baked Batter Pudding. 
 
 Saturday. Stewed Steak with Suet 
 Dumpling, and Rice in a mould with 
 sauce. 
 
 Dinner for Dinner Party. Soup 
 Fish Saddle of Mutton Cutlets Main- 
 tenon Greens Potatoes- Sweet Breads 
 White Sauce Cranberry Jelly 
 Pickles Turkey Roast Celery Sauce 
 Game Course Partridges Wild Ducks 
 French Salad Jelly of Fruit Cheese 
 Cakes Meringues a la Creme Frozen 
 Plum Pudding Dessert. 
 
 %d. For a Party of Twenty Persons. 
 Soups Two Dishes of Fish Haunch of 
 Mutton Boiled Capons Fricandeau of 
 Veal Curry of Fowl Fillets of Beef 
 with Tomato Sauce Oyster Patties 
 Croquettes of Veal or Fowl Cutlets Sou- 
 bise Wild Ducks Guinea Fowl Larded 
 Scolloped Oysters Charlotte Russe 
 Apple with Rice Meringues Punch 
 Jelly Turban Cheese Souffle Dessert. 
 
 For Supper Parties. Cold Roast 
 Fowls Lobster Salad Chicken Salad 
 Mayonnaises of Fowls Ham Tongue 
 cut in slices, garnished with Parsley and 
 Aspic Jelly- Grouse Pie Boned Turkey 
 
 Terrapins Game Birds Oysters 
 
 Stewed, Fried Raised Pastry Jellies 
 Ice Creams Pyramids of Candied Fruits 
 Cakes Compotes of Fruits Confec- 
 tionery, &c. 
 
 Children's Party. Sandwiches 
 
 Dishes of Lamb Ham Beef Tongue 
 Fowls Pastry Custard Jellies 
 Bonbons. 
 
 Another (Soyer.} A Roast Turkey 
 Two Dishes of Fowls One Ham Two 
 Pigeon Pies One Piece of Boiled Beef 
 Four Lobsters Four Salads Four 
 Jellies Four Tarts Four of Preserved 
 
 Fruit, &c. Four of Pastry, with about 
 twelve of various kinds of Fruit, &c. 
 
 SPRING. 
 
 Breakfast. Tea Cocoa Flannel 
 
 Cakes Meat Cakes Twist Bread Li- 
 ver Puddings Sausages. 
 
 Dinner. Pepperpot White Pota- 
 toes Lima Beans Sweet Potatoes 
 Stewed Oysters Shewed Chickens. 
 
 Breakfast. Tea Coffee Rye Batter 
 Cakes Boiled Eggs Cold Bread 
 Sliced Ham Beefsteak. 
 
 Dinner. Vermicelli Soup White Po- 
 tatoes Tongue Hominy Fried Oys- 
 ters Boiled Fowls. 
 
 Dinner. Soup Potatoes Ruta Baga 
 Turnips Asparagus Mint Sauce Roast 
 Lamb. 
 
 Dinner. Fish Potatoes Salad- 
 Roast Veal Egg %iuce Greens. 
 
 SUMMER. 
 
 Dinner. Ochra Soup Squashes 
 Fried Chickens Green Corn Potatoes 
 Salad Buttered Beets Beef Steak. 
 
 Breakfast. Cold Bread Dry Toast 
 Clam Fritters Minced Veal Cream 
 Cheese. 
 
 Dinner. Soup Egg Sauce Cel- 
 ery Sauce Potatoes String Beans 
 Tongue Squashes Boiled Fowls. 
 
 Dinner. Lamb Soup Green Peas 
 
 Potatoes Asparagus Spinach and 
 
 Eggs Veal Cutlets. 
 
 Dinner. Green Pea Porridge Pota- 
 toes French Beans Cucumbers Cur- 
 rant Jelly Pickles Roast Lamb. 
 
 Dinner. Soup Squashes Buttered 
 Beets Green Corn Roast Veal. 
 
 Dinner. Soup Fish Potatoes 
 String Beans Fried Squashes Corn 
 Fritters Fried Chickens. 
 
534: 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 WINTER. 
 
 Dinner. Beef Soup Sweet Po- 
 tatoes Turnips Cranberry Sauce 
 White Potatoes Leg of Pork Stuffed and 
 Roasted. 
 
 Breakfast. Tea Coffee Indian Bat- 
 ter Cakes Rolls Beef Hash Fried Li- 
 ver Pork Steaks. 
 
 Dinner. Veal Soup Turnips Bak- 
 ed Sweet Potatoes Mashed Potatoes 
 Horse Radish Roast Beef. 
 
 Dinner. Soup Fish Pickled Beets 
 Sweet Potatoes White Potatoes 
 Baked Beans Roast Ducks. 
 
 Dinner. Calves' Head Soup White 
 Potatoes Hominy Turnips Pickles 
 Fillet of Veal Stuffed and Roasted. 
 
 Dinner. Soup- Cranberry Sauce 
 Ham Fried Oysters White Potatoes 
 Sweet Potatoes Roast Turkey. 
 
 Dinner. Soup Roast Goose Apple 
 Sauce Onion Sauce Potatoes Sweet 
 Potatoes Tongue Cilery Stewed Oys- 
 ters. 
 
 Dinner. Calves' Head Soup Po- 
 tatoes Beets Stewed Oysters Tur- 
 nips Sweet Potatoes Onion Sauce 
 Boiled Turkey. 
 
 Dinner. Soup Fish Currant Jelly 
 Potatoes Turnips Roast Mutton. 
 
 Dinner. Beef Soup Smoked Pig's 
 Head with Cabbage Potatoes Turnips 
 Macaroni Beets Celery Sweet Po- 
 tatoes Roast Mutton Batter Pudding 
 Baked Brandy Peaches Pain Perdu 
 Floating Island. 
 
 Dinner. Vegetable Soup Roast Pig 
 Potatoes Onions Oyster Pie Tur- 
 nips Rice Boiled Turkey Vermicelli 
 Pudding Cocoanut Custard Tipsy 
 Cake Indian Pudding. 
 
 Dinner. Clam Soup Chowder 
 Roast Fowls Beets Mangoes Toma- 
 
 toes Turnips Maccaroni Potatoes 
 Lamb Pot Pie Plum Pudding Rice hi a 
 mould with custard Wine Sauce 
 Cracker Pie. 
 
 Dinner. Soup-Roast Beef Celery 
 Macaroni Turnips Sweet Potatoes 
 Potatoes Fricasseed Chickens Boiled 
 Tongue Boiled Flour Pudding Tart- 
 lets Compote of Peaches. 
 
 Dinner. Soup a la Julienne Roast 
 Beef Green Corn Mangoes Tomatoes 
 Potatoes Beets Squashes Pilau of 
 Chickens Custard Pie Rice Flummery 
 Baked Pears Green Corn Pudding. 
 
 Dinner. -Mullagatawny Soup Roast 
 Lamb Mint Sauce Macaroni Po- 
 tatoes Boiled Tongue Tomatoes Rice 
 Roast Ducks Bread Pudding Jellies 
 Slip Cherry Tartlets. 
 
 Dinner. Oyster Soup A la mode 
 Beef Turnips Sweet Potatoes Beets 
 Potatoes Rice Baked Pork and Beans 
 Custards Suet Pudding Sauce Ap- 
 ple Fritters Mince Pie. 
 
 Dinner. Vermicelli Soup Boiled 
 
 Calfs Head Turnips Spare Rib Po- 
 tatoes Beets Rice Roast Turkey 
 
 Apple Dumpling Flapjacks Spanish 
 
 Cream Pumpkin Pie. 
 
 Dinner. Soup Chickens Egg Sauce 
 Potatoes Beans Tomatoes Ham- 
 Green Corn- Cocoanut Pie Boiled 
 
 Custards Sponge Cake Tapioca Pud- 
 ding. 
 
 Dinner. Soup Boiled Salmon Leg 
 of Mutton Caper Sauce Tomatoes 
 
 Squashes Green Corn Fried Egg 
 
 Plant Beans Tongue Rice Pudding 
 Slip Farina Mould Peach Pie. 
 
 NOTE. The Cuts of Cooking Utensils in the Se- 
 cond Part were furnished to the Publishers by Mr. 
 STEPHEN WM. SMITH, whose Housekeeping Fur- 
 niture Ware Booms are at 534 Broadway, neai 
 Spring Street, New York. 
 
PART THIRD. 
 
 PERFUMERY AND THE TOILET, 
 
 THE FAMILY MEDICAL GUIDE, 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 
 
PERFUMERY AND THE TOILET. 
 
 THE perfumes for the handkerchief, as 
 found in the shops of Paris and London, 
 are either simple or compound ; the for- 
 mer are called extracts, extraits, esprits, 
 or essences, and the latter bouquets and 
 nosegays, which are mixtures of the ex- 
 tracts so compounded in quantity that 
 no one flower or odor can be discovered 
 as predominating over another. Per- 
 fumes are procured by the processes 
 of maceration, absorption, and distilla- 
 tion. 
 
 In making pomade, a certain quantity 
 of purified mutton or deer suet is put 
 into a clean metal or porcelain pan, this 
 being melted by a steam heat ; the kind 
 of flowers required for the odor wanted 
 are carefully picked and put into the 
 liquid fat, and allowed to remain from 
 twelve to forty-eight hours ; the fat has 
 a particular affinity or attraction for the 
 oil of flowers, and thus, as it were, draws 
 it out of them, and becomes itself, by 
 their aid, highly perfumed; the fat is 
 strained from the spent flowers, and 
 fresh are added four or five times over, 
 till the pomade is of the required 
 strength. For perfumed oils the same 
 operation is followed ; but, in lieu of 
 suet, fine olive oil or oil of ben, derived 
 from the ben nuts of the Levant, is used, 
 and the same results are obtained. 
 
 The odors of some flowers are so deli- 
 cate and volatile, that heat would spoil 
 them ; the process of absorption or en- 
 
 fleurage is, therefore, conducted cold, 
 thus : Square frames, about three inches 
 deep, with a glass bottom, say two feet 
 wide and three feet long, are procured ; 
 over the glass a layer of fat is spread, 
 about half an inch thick, with a kind of 
 plaster knife j into this the flower buds 
 are stuck, cup downwards, and ranged 
 completely over it, and there left from 
 twelve to seventy-two hours. 
 
 Almond perfume is obtained from the 
 bitter almonds, and exists in the skin or 
 pellicle that covers the seed after it is 
 shelled. The essential oil of almonds 
 enters into combination with soap, cold 
 cream, and many other materials pre- 
 pared by the perfumer. 
 
 Almond. 
 
 A beautiful imitation of Essence of 
 white Lilac may be compounded thus : 
 One pint spirituous extract from 
 
538 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 tubereuse pomade ; one quarter of a pint 
 spirituous extract of orange-flower po- 
 made ; three drops of otto of almonds ; 
 half an ounce extract of civet. 
 
 The civet is only used to give per- 
 manence to the perfume of the hand- 
 kerchief. 
 
 Benzoin, also called Benjamin. This 
 is a very useful substance to perfumers. It 
 exudes from the Styrax lenzoin by wound- 
 ing the tree, and drying, becomes a hard 
 gum-resin. It is principally imported 
 from Borneo, Java, Sumatra, and Siam. 
 
 Styrax Benzoin. 
 
 Bay. Oil of sweet Bay, also termed es- 
 sential oil of laurel-berries, is a very 
 fragrant substance, procured by dis- 
 tillation from the berries of the bay 
 laurel. 
 
 Bergamot. This most useful perfume 
 is procured from the Citrus Bergamia, 
 by expression from the peel of the fruit. 
 Mixed with rectified spirit in the pro- 
 portions of about four ounces of bergamot 
 to a gallon, it forms what is called " ex- 
 tract of bergamot," and in this state is 
 used for the handkerchief. 
 
 Geranium (Pelargonium odoratis- 
 simum, rose-leaf geranium). The leaves 
 of this plant yield by distillation a very 
 agreeable rosy-smelling oiF, so much re- 
 sembling real otto of rose, that it is used 
 
 very extensively for the adulteration of 
 that valuable oil, and is grown very 
 largely for that express purpose. "When 
 dissolved in rectified spirit, in the pro- 
 portion of about six ounces to the gallon, 
 it forms the " extract of rose leaf gera- 
 nium" of the shops. 
 
 Heliotrope. Either by maceration or 
 enfleurage with clarified fat, we may ob- 
 tain this fine odor from the flowers of 
 the Heliotrope Perumanum or H. grandi 
 florum. For a small trial, which can be 
 managed by any person having the run 
 of a garden, we will say, procure an or- 
 dinary glue-pot now in common use, 
 which melts the material by the boiling 
 of water. At the season when the flowers 
 are in bloom, obtain half a pound of fine 
 mutton suet, melt the suet and strain it 
 through a close hair-sieve, allow the 
 liquefied fat, as it falls from the sieve, to 
 drop into cold spring water ; this opera- 
 tion granulates and washes the blood and 
 membrane from it. In order to start 
 with a perfectly inodorous grease, the 
 melting and granulation process may be 
 repeated three or four times ; finally, re- 
 melt the fat and cast it into a pan to 
 free it from adhering water. 
 
 Now put the clarified suet into the 
 macerating pot, and place it in such a 
 position near the fire of the greenhouse 
 or elsewhere, that will keep it warm 
 enough to be liquid ; into the fat throw 
 as many flowers as you can, and there 
 let them remain for twenty-four hours ; 
 at this time strain the fat from the spent 
 flowers, and add fresh ones ; repeat this 
 operation for a week : we suppose at the 
 last straining the fat will have become 
 rery highly perfumed, and when cold may 
 be justly termed Pomade a la Helio- 
 
 The cold pomade being chopped up like 
 suet for a pudding, is now to be put into 
 a wide-mouthed bottle, covered with 
 spirits as highly rectified as can be ob- 
 
PERFUMERY. 
 
 539 
 
 tained, and left to digest for a week or 
 more ; the spirit then strained off will be 
 highly perfumed : in reality it will be ex- 
 tract of Heliotrope, a delightful perfume 
 for the handkerchief. The rationale of the 
 operation is simple enough : the fat body 
 has a strong affinity or attraction for the 
 odorous body, or essential oil of the 
 flowers, and it therefore absorbs it by 
 contact, and becomes itself perfumed. In 
 the second operation, the spirit has a 
 much greater attraction for the fragrant 
 principle than the fatty matter ; the for- 
 mer, therefore, becomes perfumed at the 
 expense of the latter. The san^j ex- 
 periment may be repeated with almond 
 oil substituted for the fat. 
 
 The experiment here hinted at may be 
 varied with any flowers whatever ; in- 
 deed, by having the macerating bath lar- 
 ger than was mentioned above, an excel- 
 lent millefleur pomade and essence might 
 be produced from every conservatory. 
 
 The odor of heliotrope resembles a 
 mixture of almonds and vanilla, and is 
 well imitated thus : 
 
 Extract of Heliotrope. Half a pint of 
 spirituous extract of vanilla; one gill 
 of spirituous extract of French rose po- 
 matum ; two ounces spirituous extract of 
 orangp-flower pomatum ; one ounce spirit- 
 uous extract of ambergris ; five drops of 
 essential oil of almonds. 
 
 A good Imitation of Honeysuckle is 
 made thus : Spirituous extract of rose 
 pomatum, one pint ; spirituous extract 
 of violet pomatum, one pint ; spirituous 
 extract of tubereuse pomatum, one pint ; 
 extract of vanilla, one gill ; extract of 
 Tolu, one gill ; otto neroli, ten drops ; 
 otto almonds, five drops. 
 
 Imitation Essence of Myrtle. Extract 
 of vanilla, half a pint ; extract of roses, 
 one pint.' 
 
 Orange Flower. Extract of fleur d'or- 
 ange, half a pint ; extract of tubereuse, 
 half a pint ; extract of jasmine, two 
 ounces. Mix and allow to stand for a 
 
 fortnight : it is then fit for bottling, and 
 is a perfume that gives a great deal of sat- 
 isfaction. 
 
 Imitation Essence of Violets. Spirit- 
 uous extract of cassie pomade, one pint ; 
 esprit de rose, from pomade, half a pint ; 
 tincture of orris, half a pint ; spirituous 
 extract of tuberose pomade, half a pint ; 
 otto of almonds, three drops. 
 
 Imitation " Lily of theValley." Ex- 
 tract of tubereuse, half a pint ; extract of 
 jasmine, one ounce ; extract of fleur d ? or- 
 ange, two ounces ; extract of vanilla, 
 three ounces ; extract of cassie, one 
 gill ; extract of rose, one gill ; otto of al- 
 monds, three drops. Keep this mixture 
 together for a month, and then bottle 
 it for sale. It is a perfume that is very 
 much admired. 
 
 Imitation " Essence of Magnolia" 
 Spirituous extract of orange-flower po- 
 matum, one pint ; spirituous extract of 
 rose pomatum, two pints ; spirituous ex- 
 tract of tubereuse pomatum, half a pint ; 
 spirituous extract of violet pomatum, half 
 a pint; essential oil of citron, three 
 drachms; essential oil of almonds, ten 
 drops. 
 
 Extrait d?Ambre. Esprit de rose 
 triple, half a pint ; extract of ambergris, 
 one pint ; essence of musk, one gill ; ex- 
 tract of vanilla, two ounces. 
 
 This perfume has such a lasting odor, 
 that a handkerchief being well perfumed 
 with it, will still retain an odor even af- 
 ter it has been washed. 
 
 PatcTiouly. Pogostemon patcTiouly 
 (Lindley), Plectranthus crassifolius 
 (Burnett), is an herb that grows ex- 
 tensively in India and China. It some- 
 what resembles . our garden sage in its 
 growth and form. The odor is due to an 
 otto contained in the leaves and stems, 
 and is readily procured by distillation. 
 
 It is the most powerful of any derived 
 from the botanic kingdom ; hence, if 
 mixed in the proportion of measure for 
 
54:0 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 measure, it completely covers the smell of 
 all other bodies. 
 
 Patchouly. 
 
 * 
 
 Extract of Patchouly. Rectified spi- 
 rits, one gallon ; otto of patchouly, one 
 ounce and a quarter j otto of rose quarter 
 of an ounce. 
 
 The characteristic smell of Chinese or 
 Indian ink is due to some admixture of 
 this herb. 
 
 The origin of the use of patchouly as a 
 perfume in Europe is curious. A few 
 years ago real Indian shawls bore an 
 extravagant price, and purchasers could 
 always distinguish them by their odor ; 
 in fact, they were perfumed with pat- 
 chouly. The French manufacturers had 
 for some time successfully imitated the 
 Indian fabric, but could not impart 4he 
 odor. 
 
 At length they discovered the secret, 
 and began to import the plant to perfume 
 articles of their make, and thus palm off 
 homespun shawls as real Indian ! From 
 this origin the perfumers have brought it 
 into use. 
 
 Imitation of the Essence of Sweet 
 Pea can be prepared thus : Extract of 
 tuberose, half a pint ; extract of fleur 
 d'orange, half a pint j extract of rose 
 
 from pomatum, half a pint ; extract of 
 vanilla, one ounce. 
 
 Music. This extraordinary substance, 
 like civet, is an animal secretion. Musk 
 is remarkable for the diffusiveness and 
 subtlety of its scent ; every thing in its 
 vicinity soon becomes affected by it, and 
 long retains its odor, although not in ac- 
 tual contact with it. Extract of musk c 
 one pint ; extract of ambergris, half a 
 pint ; extract of rose triple, one gill. 
 Mix and filter it ; it is then fit for bot- 
 tling. 
 
 Hose. Pure otto of roses, from its 
 cloying sweetness, has not many ad- 
 mirers ; when diluted, however, there is 
 nothing to equal it in odor, especially if 
 mixed in soap, to form rose soap, or in 
 pure spirit, to form the esprit de rose. 
 
 There are four modifications of essence 
 of rose for the hankerchief, which are the 
 ne plus ultra of the perfumer's art. They 
 are, esprit de rose triple, essence of 
 white roses, essence of tea rose, and 
 essence of moss rose. The following are 
 the recipes : 
 
 Esprit de Rose Triple. Rectified al 
 cohol, one gallon ; otto of rose, three 
 ounces. Mix at a summer heat ; in the 
 course of a quarter of an hour the whole 
 of the otto is dissolved, and is then ready 
 for bottling. In the winter season beau- 
 tiful crystals of the otto if it is good 
 appear disseminated through the esprit. 
 
 Essence of Moss .Zftw.Spirituous extract 
 from French rose pomatum, one quart ; 
 esprit de rose triple, one pint ; extracts 
 fleur d'orange pomatum, one pint ; ex- 
 tract of ambergris, half a pint ; extracts 
 of musk, four ounces. Allow the ingre- 
 dients to remain together for a fortnight ; 
 then filter, if requisite, and it is ready for 
 sale. 
 
 Essence of White Rose. Esprit de rose 
 from pomatum, one quart ; esprit de rose 
 triple, one quart j esprit de rose violette 
 
PEBFUMEKY. 
 
 541 
 
 one quart ; extracts of jasmine, one pint; 
 extracts of patchouly, half a pint. 
 
 Essence of Tea Ease. Esprit de rose 
 pomade, one pint ; esprit de rose triple, 
 one pint ; extract of rose-leaf geranium, 
 one pint ; extract of sandal -wood, half a 
 pint ; extract of neroli, quarter of a pint ; 
 extract of orris, quarter of a pint. 
 
 Otto of Rosemary is very extensively 
 used in perfumery, especially in combi- 
 nation with other ottos for scenting soap. 
 Eau de Cologne cannot be made without 
 it, and in the once famous "Hungary 
 water" it is the leading ingredient. The 
 following is the composition of 
 
 Hungary Water. Rectified alcohol, 
 one gallon ; otto of English rosemary, 
 two ounces ; otto of lemon-peel, one 
 ounce ; otto of balm (Melissa), one ounce ; 
 otto of mint, half drachm; esprit de 
 rose, one pint ; extract of fleur d'orange, 
 one pint. 
 
 Vanilla. The pod or bean of the 
 Vanilla planifolia yields a perfume of 
 rare excellence. 
 
 Extract of Vanilla. Half a pound of 
 Vanilla pods, and one gallon of rectified 
 spirit. 
 
 Slit the pods from end to end, so as to 
 lay open the interior, then cut them up 
 'in lengths of about a quarter of an inch, 
 macerate with occasional agitation for 
 about a month ; the tincture thus formed 
 will only require straining through cotton 
 to be ready for any use that is required. 
 In this state it is rarely sold for a per- 
 fume, but is consumed in the manufacture 
 of compound odors, bouquets, or nose- 
 gays, as they are called. 
 
 Verbena, or Vervaine. The scented 
 species of this plant, the lemon verbena, 
 Aloysia citriodora (Hooker), gives one 
 of the finest perfumes with which we 
 are acquainted ; it is well known as yield- 
 ing a delightful fragrance by merely 
 drawing the hand over the plant ; some 
 of the little vessels or sacks containing 
 
 the otto must be crushed in this act, as 
 there is little or no odor by merely 
 smelling at the plant. 
 
 The otto, which can be extracted from 
 the leaves by distillation with water, on 
 account of its high price, is scarcely, if 
 ever, used fey the manufacturing perfumer, 
 but it is most successfully imitated by 
 mixing the otto of lemon grass, Andro- 
 pogon schcenanthus, with rectified spirit, 
 the odor of which resembles the former 
 to a nicety. The following is a good form 
 for making the 
 
 Extract of Verbena. One pint of rec- 
 tified spirit ; three drachms otto of lemon 
 grass ; two ounces otto of lemon peel ; 
 half an ounce otto of orange peel. 
 
 After standing together for a few hours, 
 and then filtering, it is fit for use. 
 
 Another mixture of this kind, presum- 
 ed by the public to be made from the 
 same plant, but of a finer quality, is com- 
 posed thus : 
 
 Extrait de Verveine. One pint of rec- 
 tified spirit; one ounce of otto of orange 
 peel ; two ounces of otto of lemon peel ; 
 one drachm of otto of citron ; two drachms 
 and a half .of otto of lemon grass ; seven 
 ounces of extrait de fleur d'orange ; 
 seven ounces of extrait de fleur tubereuse ; 
 half a pint esprit de rose. 
 
 This mixture is exceedingly refreshing, 
 and is one of the most elegant perfumes 
 that is made. 
 
 Winter Green (Trientalis Europcea). 
 A perfuming otto can be procured by 
 distilling the leaves of this plant ; it is 
 principally consumed in the perfuming of 
 soaps. Upon the strength of the name 
 of this odorous plant a very nice hand- 
 kerchief perfume is made. 
 
 Iceland Winter Green. One pint es- 
 prit de rose ; a quarter of a pint of es- 
 sence of lavender ; half a pint of extract 
 of neroli ; a quarter of a pint of extract 
 of vanilla 5 a quarter of a pint of ex- 
 
542 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 tract of vitivert ; half a pint of extract 
 of cassie ; a quarter of a pint of extract 
 of ambergris. 
 
 Citron. On distilling the flowers of 
 the Citrus medica, a very fragrant oil is 
 procured, which is a species of neroli, 
 and is principally consumed by the manu- 
 facturers of eau de Cologne. 
 
 Citronella. Under this name there is 
 an oil in the market, chiefly derived from 
 Ceylon and the East Indies. Being 
 cheap, it is extensively used for perfum- 
 ing soap. What is now extensively sold 
 as " honey" soap, is a fine yellow soap, 
 slightly perfumed with this oil. 
 
 Cloves. Every part of the clove plant 
 ( Gary op Jiy llus aroma ticus) abounds with 
 aromatic oil, but it is most fragrant and 
 plentiful in the unexpanded flower-bud, 
 which are the cloves of commerce. The 
 plant is a native of the Moluccas and 
 other islands in the China seas. The oil 
 may be obtained by expression from the 
 fresh flower-buds, but the usual method 
 of procuring it is by distillation. Few 
 essential oils have a more extensive use 
 in perfumery; it combines well with 
 grease, soap, and spirit, and forms a lead- 
 ing feature in some of the most popular 
 handkerchief essences. For essence of 
 cloves, dissolve oil of cloves in the pro- 
 portion of two ounces of oil to one gallon 
 of spirit. 
 
 Cloves. 
 Ess. Bouquet. The reputation of this 
 
 perfume has given rise to numerous imi- 
 tations of the original article, more par- 
 ticularly on the continent. In many of 
 the shops in Germany and in France will 
 be seen bottles labelled in close imitation 
 of those sent - out by Bayley and Co., 
 Cockspur Street, London, who are, in 
 truth, the original makers. 
 
 Esprit de rose triple, one pint ; extract 
 of ambergris, two ounces ; extract of 
 orris, eight ounces ; otto of lemons, one- 
 quftrter of an ounce ; otto of bergamot, 
 one ounce. 
 
 COMPOUND ODOKS, or bouquets, are used 
 for the purpose of fixing the more vola- 
 tile odors to the handkerchief. 
 
 Essence of Rondeletia. Spirit (brandy) 
 one gallon ; otto of lavender, two ounces ; 
 otto of cloves, one ounce ; otto of roses, 
 three drachms ; otto of bergamot, one 
 ounce; one gill of extract of musk^ 
 one gill of extract of vanilla, and one gill 
 of extract of ambergris. 
 
 The mixture must be made at least a 
 month before it is fit for use. 
 
 Bouquet de Caroline; also called 
 Bouquet des Delices. Extrait de rose, 
 from pomade, one pint ; extrait de vio- 
 lette, from pomade, one pint ; extrait de 
 tuberose, from pomade, one pint ; extract 
 of orris, half a pint ; extract of ambergris, 
 half a pint ; otto of bergamot, a quarter 
 of an ounce; otto of limette, a quarter 
 of an ounce ; otto of cedret, a quarter of 
 an ounce. 
 
 The Court Nosegay. Extrait de rose, 
 one pint ; extrait de violette, one pint ; 
 extrait de j asmine, one pint ; esprit de 
 rose triple, one pint ; extract of musk, 
 one ounce; extract of ambergris, one 
 ounce ; otto of lemon, half an ounce ; 
 otto of bergamot, half an ounce ; otto ot 
 neroli, one drachm. 
 
 Bouquet de Flora ; otherwise, Extract 
 of Flowers. Esprit de rose, from po- 
 made, one pint ; esprit de tubereuse, from 
 
PERFUMERY. 
 
 543 
 
 pomade, one pint ; esprit de violette, 
 from pomade, one pint ; extract of ben- 
 zoin, an ounce and a half; otto of ber- 
 gamot, two ounces ; otto of lemon, half 
 an ounce ; otto of orange, half an ounce. 
 
 Essentia Odorifera. Take of musk 
 grain, ten grains ; civet, five grains ; Pe- 
 ruvian balsam,twelve grains ; oil of cloves, 
 four drops ; oil of rhodium, two drops ; 
 sub-carbonate of potash, half a drachm ; 
 rectified spirits of wine, two ounces. Di- 
 gest them together in a close vessel, with 
 a heat equal to that of the sun in sum- 
 mer (78 deg. Fahr.) for several days, and 
 afterwards pour off the essence for use. 
 This is an exquisite perfume, and a single 
 drop gives a fine flavor to many ounces 
 of other liquors. 
 
 Eau de Chypre. This is an old- 
 fashioned French perfume, presumed to 
 be derived from the JUyperus esculentus by 
 some, and by others to be so named after 
 the island of Cyprus; the article sold, 
 however, is made thus : 
 
 Extract of musk, one pint ; extract of 
 ambergris, half a pint ; extract of vanilla, 
 half a pint ; extract of tonquin bean, half 
 a pint ; extract of orris, half a pint ; es- 
 prit de rose triple, two pints. 
 
 The mixture thus formed is one of the 
 most lasting odors that can be made. 
 
 Empress Eugenics Nosegay. Extract 
 of musk, one gill j extract of vanilla, one 
 gill ; extract of tonquin, one gill ; ex- 
 tract of neroli, one gill ; extract of ge- 
 ranium, half a pint ; extract of rose 
 triple, half a pint ; extract of santal, half 
 a pint. 
 
 The Guards' 1 Bouquet. Esprit de rose, 
 two pints ; esprit de neroli, half a pint ; 
 extract of vanilla, two ounces ; extract 
 of orris, two ounces ; extract of musk, a 
 quarter of a pint ; otto of cloves, half a 
 -drachm. 
 
 Fleur tfltalie, or Italian Nosegay. 
 Esprit de rose, from pomade, two pints ; 
 
 Esprit de rose triple, one pint ; esprit de 
 jasmine, from pomade, one pint; es- 
 prit de violette, from pomade, one pint , 
 extract of cassie, half a pint ; extract of 
 musk, two ounces ; extract of ambergris, 
 two ounces. 
 
 Jockey Club Bouquet (English for- 
 mula). Extract of orris root, two pints ; 
 esprit de rose triple, one pint ; esprit de 
 rose de pomade, one pint; extrait de 
 cassie de pomade, half a pint ; extrait de 
 tubereuse de pomade, half a pint ; extrait 
 of ambergris, half a pint ; otto of ber- 
 gamot, half an ounce. 
 
 Jockey Club Bouquet (French formula). 
 Esprit de rose de pomade, one pint ; 
 esprit de tubereuse, one pint ; esprit de 
 cassie, half a pint ; esprit de jasmine, 
 a quarter of a pint ; extract of civet, three 
 ounces. 
 
 SPIRITUOUS INFUSIONS. 
 
 Leaves, flowers, roots, wood, resins, 
 powders, and perfumes of animal origin, 
 all serve to furnish these tinctures. The 
 substances are either cut, rasped, or 
 bruised, according to their nature, and 
 infused for some days or a month, taking 
 care not to fill the vessel so full as to 
 prevent its contents being stirred up oc- 
 casionally. These infusions are made 
 either with alcohol or brandy. 
 
 Eau de Vie de Lavan^e.-Tske one pound 
 of flowers, and three pints of brandy. 
 Infuse in a closed vessel for six weeks. 
 and after that strain and bottle up for 
 use or sale. 
 
 Infusion de Lavande Rouge composee 
 (English). Take of spirit lavender, one 
 pound and a half ; spirit rosemary, one 
 pound ; pulverized cinnamon, one ounce j 
 pulverized nutmegs, one ounce ; red san- 
 ders, one drachm. After two weeks' in- 
 fusion, filter. 
 
 Infusion de Camomille omaine.OnQ 
 
544 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 pound of flowers suffices for three quarts 
 of brandy. 
 
 Infusion of Absinthe: de Sauge, &c. 
 Take only four leaves to the quart of 
 brandy. These infusions serve in the 
 composition of sundry aromatic waters. 
 
 Infusion or Esprit de Safran. To a 
 quart of alcohol, take two ounces saffron 
 and infuse for two months. This spirit 
 is used for coloring waters, pastes, &c., 
 but in very small proportions. 
 
 Infusion or Esprit de Snodia. Infuse 
 as before one pound of rhodium wood in 
 two quarts of spirit. If the wood is re- 
 sinous, only half a pound is required. 
 
 Infusion or Teinture de Canelle. 
 Take four ounces best bruised cinnamon 
 to the quart of spirit. 
 
 Tincture of Sassafras. Infuse eight 
 ounces of bruised sassafras in one quart 
 of alcohol. 
 
 Tincture of Santal-citrin (yellow san- 
 ders). Operate as for the preceding in- 
 fusion. 
 
 Tincture of Benzoin. Take Benzoin in 
 tears and pulverized, two ounces ; al- 
 cohol one pound. After seven days' 
 infusion, filter. This tincture is used, 
 principally, for making the Lait Virgi- 
 nal, either with pure rose, orange flower 
 or lavender water. 
 
 To malce Eau-de-Cologne. Rectified 
 spirits of wine, four pints ; oil of berga- 
 mot, one ounce; oil of lemon, half an 
 ounce ; oil of rosemary, half a drachm ; 
 oil of Neroli, three quarters of a drachm ; 
 oil of English lavender, one drachm ; oil 
 of oranges, one drachm. Mix well, and 
 then filter. If these proportions are too 
 large, smaller ones may be used. 
 
 Eau Jaune a I 1 Amaryllis. In two 
 quarts of alcohol, dissolve two ounces es- 
 sence of bergamot, four ounces essence of 
 lemon, four drachms essence of Portu- 
 gal, four drachms essence of neroli, one 
 drachm essence of thyme, one drachm 
 essence of rosemary, two ounces of tinc- 
 
 ture of cloves, eight ounces of lait vir- 
 ginal, as much of vanilla water, four 
 drachms .of essence of amber, and two 
 drachms essence of musk. Dilute the 
 spirit with good rose water, and add 
 a little of red or yellow tincture, ac- 
 cording to choice. 
 
 Eau d'Ambre Eoyale. To a quart of 
 alcohol add half a pint of spirit of am- 
 brette, an ounce of essence of amber, an 
 ounce of musk mixed with a proportional 
 quantity of orange-flower water. 
 
 Eau de Chypre.-'hlix together (eau de) 
 jasmine, one quart ; (eau de) bergamot, 
 one quart ; (eau de) violet, one quart ; 
 (eau de) tuberose, one quart ; (esprit) 
 spirit of ambrette, one pint ; essence of 
 musk, one ounce ; mecca balsam, one 
 ounce ; storax, half an ounce. 
 
 Add to the mixture two ounces of 
 water, and mix thoroughly together, so 
 that no one odor predominates over the 
 rest. 
 
 Lavender Water. Oil of lavender, two 
 drachms ; oil of bergamot, half drachm ; 
 essence of musk, one drachm ; spirit of 
 wine, thirteen ounces ; water, five ounces. 
 Let it stand a week. 
 
 Eau de Bouquet de Flore. Eau de 
 miel, two ounces ; tincture of cloves, one 
 ounce ; tincture of calamus, half an ounce; 
 tincture of lavender, half an ounce ; tinc- 
 ture of souchet, half an ounce ; eau sans 
 pareille, four ounces ; tincture of jasminej 
 nine drachms ; tincture of orris root, one 
 ounce ; tincture of neroli, twenty drops. 
 
 These waters and tinctures mixed to- 
 gether, give a product of exquisite fra- 
 grance. 
 
 Eau d 1 Elegance. Spirit of jasmine, 
 two quarts ; spirit of storax, one pint ; 
 spirit of hyacinth, one pint ; spirit of ba- 
 diane, four ounces ; tincture of balsam of 
 Tolu, four ounces ; tincture of vanilla, 
 two ounces. 
 
 Eau de Miel. This receipt is from one 
 of the most celebrated English perfumers ; 
 coriander, seven pounds ; cloves, twelve 
 
HAIE OILS. 
 
 545 
 
 ounces ; storax, eight ounces ; bruised 
 nutmegs, eight ounces ; lemon-peel, ten 
 ounces ; calamus, six ounces ; alcohol, 
 fifteen quarts. 
 
 Macerate for a month in a well-stop- 
 pered demijohn. Distil then, and to the 
 liquor add : orange-flower water, five 
 quarts ; essence of roses, twenty-four 
 drops ; pulverized ambergris, one drm. ; 
 vanilla in pieces, two ounces. 
 
 Macerate for a week, and filter. This 
 is one of the most agreeable waters used. 
 
 OILS FOR THE HAIR. 
 
 For Thickening and Strengthening the 
 Hair. Skim the fat from the top of 
 calves' feet while boiling ; mix with a 
 teaspoonful of rum ; shake together. 
 Apply night and morning. 
 
 Pomatum. Take white mutton suet, 
 four pounds, well boiled in hot water, 
 (three quarts,) and* washed to free it 
 from salt. Melt the suet when dried 
 with one pound and a half of fresh lard, 
 and two pounds of yellow wax. Pour in to 
 an earthen vessel, and stir till it is cold ; 
 then beat into it thirty drops of oil of 
 cloves, or any other essential oil whose 
 scent you prefer. If this is too hard, use 
 less wax. 
 
 Or : Soak half a pound of clear beef- 
 marrow, and a pound of unsalted fresh 
 lard, in water, two or three days, chang- 
 ing and beating it every day. Put it into 
 a sieve, and when dry, into a jar, and the 
 jar into a saucepan of water. When 
 melted, pour it into a basin, and beat 
 it with two spoonfuls of brandy ; dram 
 off the brandy, and then add essence of 
 lemon, bergamot, or any other scent that 
 is liked. 
 
 Pomade Victoria. This highly praised 
 and excellent pomade is made in the fol- 
 lowing way and if so made, will be 
 found to give a beautiful gloss and soft- 
 ness to the hair : Quarter of a pound of 
 honey and half an ounce of beeswax 
 simmered together for a few minutes, 
 
 and then strain ; and of oil of almonds, 
 lavender, and thyme, half a drachm each. 
 Be sure to continue stirring till quite 
 cold, or the honey and wax will separate. 
 Imitation Bear's Grease. Hog's lard, 
 sixteen ounces; flowers of benzoin and 
 palm oil, of each quarter of an ounce. Melt 
 together until combined, and stir until cold. 
 Scent at pleasure. This will keep a long 
 time. 
 
 Sweet Pot-pourri. Take three hand* 
 Ms of orange-flowers, three of clove-gilly- 
 flowers, three of damask-roses, one of 
 knotted marjoram, one of lemon-thyme, 
 six bay-leaves, a handful of rosemary, 
 one of myrtle, half of mint, one of laven- 
 der, the rind of a lemon, and quarter of an 
 ounce of cloves. Chop all, and put them 
 in layers, with pounded bay-salt between, 
 up to the top of a china jar. 
 
 If all the ingredients cannot be got at 
 once, put them in as you get them ; 
 always throwing in salt with every new 
 article. 
 
 To make Wash-balls. Shave thin two 
 pounds of new white soap into about a 
 teacupful of rose-water, then pour as 
 much boiling water on as will soften it. 
 Put into a brass pan a pint of sweet oil, 
 four pennyworth of oil of almonds, half a 
 pound of spermaceti, and set all over the 
 fire till dissolved ; then add the soap and 
 half an ounce of 'camphor that has first 
 been reduced to powder by rubbing it in 
 a mortar, with a few drops of spirits of 
 wine, or lavender-water, or any other 
 scent. Boil ten minutes, then pour it 
 into a basin, and stir it till it is quite 
 thick enough to roll up into hard balls, 
 which must then be done as soon as pos- 
 sible. If essence is used, stir it in quickly 
 after it is taken off the fire, that the fla- 
 vor may not fly off. 
 
 Paste for Chapped Bands. Mix a quar- 
 ter of a pound of unsalted hog's lard, which 
 has been washed in soft water, and then 
 rose-water, with the yolks of two new-laid 
 
546 
 
 THE PEACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 eggs, and a large spoonful of honey. Add 
 as much fine oatmeal or almond-paste as 
 will work into a paste. 
 
 Or : Blanch one pound of bitter al- 
 monds, pound them smooth in a marble 
 mortar ; add half an ounce of camphor, one 
 ounce of honey, quarter of a pound of sper- 
 maceti, all pounded, and mixed with the 
 almonds, till it becomes a smooth paste. 
 Put it into jars or china boxes, and tie it 
 down till wanted. 
 
 For Chapped Lips. Put quarter of an 
 ounce of benjamin, storax, and spermaceti, 
 pennyworth of alkanet-root, a large juicy 
 apple chopped, a bunch of black grapes 
 bruised, quarter of a pound of unsalted 
 butter, and two ounces of beeswax, into a 
 new tin saucepan.- Simmer gently till the 
 wax, &c., are dissolved, and then strain it 
 through linen. When cold, melt it again, 
 and pour it into small pots of boxes ; or, 
 if to make cakes, use the bottoms of tea- 
 cups. 
 
 Cosmetic Gloves. Though not alto- 
 gether fashionable now, these gloves are 
 still worn by those who are subject to 
 chaps and chilblains : the ladies especial- 
 ly use them ; hence the necessity of al- 
 ways being provided with a small stock. 
 
 Gants cosmetiques au bouquet. Wax, 
 four drachms ; spermaceti, four drachms : 
 white soap, four drachms ; mutton suet 
 seven drachms. 
 
 Mince up each of these substances sep- 
 arately, melt them over a water-bath, 
 and add : Olive oil, an ounce and a half j 
 pomade rosat, one ounce and a half; 
 benzoin, one drachm ; Peru balsam, one 
 drachm ; essence of roses, some drops ; 
 honey water, au bouquet, half an ounce. 
 Stir together until the mixture is com- 
 plete, and, whilst the mass is still hot, 
 apply it with a brush to the wrong sides 
 of the gloves. The gloves being return- 
 ed, are blown up, and put by in a warm 
 place to dry. 
 
 Or : Beat two yolks of eggs with two 
 spoonfuls of oil of sweet almonds, and add 
 half an ounce rose water and two drachms 
 tincture of benzoin. 
 
 The gloves are worn during the night, 
 and each pair should serve two weeks. 
 The rest of the pomade answers for rub- 
 bing the hands. 
 
 Lait de rose (milk of rose). To one 
 ounce of fine olive oil, and six drops of 
 oil of tartar, add a quart of rose water. 
 Melt together, in a stoneware vessel, over 
 a water-bath : Spermaceti, one ounce ; 
 white wax, one ounce ; white soap, one 
 ounce. Rub up in a marble mortar bit- 
 ter almonds (best quality), two ounces ; 
 sweet almonds, best quality, one pound. 
 Take out three-fourths, and upon the re- 
 maining fourth pour the above mixture, 
 and continue rubbing actively, and after- 
 wards add, by degrees, the other three- 
 fourths of the almonds, always pestling 
 rapidly so as to thoroughly incorporate 
 the mixture. 
 
 Again prepare in a white-glass bottle 
 the following mixture : Distilled water, 
 two pounds ; rose water, half a pound ; 
 spirit of rose, half a pound. Reserve a 
 pint, and pour gradually into the rest the 
 first, and rub well all the while; then 
 strain through a close cloth, and return 
 the marc to the mortar, where, being 
 triturated with the pint above reserved, 
 it is again strained, and the liquid united 
 with the first. 
 
 If there is any tendency to decompo- 
 sition, shake up tbe milk freely. To aug- 
 ment the fragrance of this composition, 
 perfume with four drops essence of rose. 
 
 Violet Powder. Wheat starch, twelve 
 pounds ; orris-root powder, two pounds ; 
 otto of lemon, half an ounce; otto of 
 bergamot, a quarter of an ounce ; otto of 
 cloves, two drachms. 
 
 Rose Face Powder. Wheat starch, 
 seven pounds ; rose pink, half a drachm j 
 
POWDERS SOAPS. 
 
 54:7" 
 
 otto of rose, two drachms ; otto of santal, 
 two drachms. 
 
 Perle Powder. French chalk, one 
 pound; oxide of bismuth, one ounce; 
 oxide of zinc, one ounce. 
 
 Poudre de la mer rouge, by Cambou, 
 Paris. Take alum, one pound; white 
 sugar, one ounce ; gum arabic (best), one 
 ounce ; carmine, one ounce. Mix and re- 
 duce the whole to an impalpable powder, 
 and sieve through a fine cloth. 
 
 This powder, its author says, is cura- 
 tive of the ringworm, red blotches, and 
 pimples. 
 
 It is tied up loosely in a bag, and this 
 bag, moistened with fresh water, is rub- 
 bed gently over the skin. 
 
 SOAPS. 
 
 Sawn au miel. Take four ounces 
 white soap, four ounces white honey, 
 one ounce benzoin, half an ounce storax ; 
 mix the whole together in a marble mor- 
 tar, and when well incorporated, melt the 
 paste ever a water-bath, -strain, pour 
 into frames, and divide into small 
 tablets. 
 
 Lady Derltfs Soap. Take two ounces 
 blanched bitter almonds, ten drachms 
 tincture benzoin, a pound of white soap, 
 and a piece of camphor, size of a filbert ; 
 powder the almonds and camphor in a 
 separate mortar, and, when they are com- 
 pletely mixed, add the benzoin. If there 
 should be too much odor of benzoin and 
 camphor, weaken the perfume by remelt- 
 ing the soap. 
 
 Saponaceous Cream of Almonds. The 
 preparation sold under this title is a 
 potash soft soap of lard. It has a beauti- 
 ful pearly appearance, and has met with 
 extensive demand as a shaving soap. It 
 is made thus : Clarified lard, seven 
 pounds ; potash of lye (containing twenty- 
 six per cent, of caustic potash), three and 
 three-quarter pounds j rectified spirit. 
 
 three ounces; otto of almonds, two 
 drachms. 
 
 Manipulation : Melt the lard in a por- 
 celain vessel by a salt-water bath ; then 
 run in the lye, very slowly, agitating the 
 whole time ; when about half the lye is 
 in, the mixture begins to curdle ; it will, 
 however, become so firm that it cannot 
 be stirred. The creme is then finished, 
 but is not pearly ; it will, however, as- 
 sume that appearance by long trituration 
 in a mortar, gradually adding the al- 
 cohol, in which has been dissolved the 
 perfume. 
 
 Transparent Soap. Take of perfectly 
 dry, pulverulent white soap, two pounds ; 
 alcohol, three quarts; heat gently to- 
 gether over a water-bath, and when the 
 solution is complete, perfume, and turn 
 out into forms. 
 
 "When cooled, divide it into cakes, one- 
 third thicker than their designed size, 
 so as to allow for contraction by evapo- 
 ration. 
 
 Frangipanne Soap. Curd soap, pre- 
 viously colored light brown, seven pounds ; 
 civet, a quarter of an ounce ; otto of 
 neroli, half an ounce ; otto of santal, an 
 ounce and a half; otto of rose, a quarter 
 of an ounce; otto of vitivert, half an 
 ounce. 
 
 Rose Cold Cream. Almond oil, one 
 pound ; rose-water, one pound ; white 
 wax, one ounce ; spermaceti, one ounce ; 
 otto of roses, half a drachm. Heat the 
 wax and sperm in a water-bath ; add the 
 otto last. 
 
 Cold Cream of Almonds is prepared 
 precisely as the above ; but in place of 
 otto of roses otto of almonds is used. 
 
 Violet Cold Cream. Huile violette, 
 one pound ; rose-water, one pound ; wax 
 and spermaceti, each one ounce ; otto of 
 almonds, five drops. 
 
 Violet Cold Cream. Imitation: Al- 
 mond oil, three-quarters of a pound j 
 
548 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 huile cassie, a quarter of a pound ; rose- 
 water, one pound ; sperm and wax, one 
 ounce ; otto of almonds, a quarter of a 
 drachm. 
 
 This is an elegant and economical pre- 
 paration, generally admired. 
 
 Camphor Cold Cream (otherwise Cam- 
 phor Ice). Almond oil, one pound ; rose 
 water, one pound ; wax and spermaceti, 
 one ounce ; camphor, two ounces ; otto 
 of rosemary, one drachm. 
 
 Pommades des Sultanes. Melt over a 
 water-bath one ounce white wax and 
 two ounces spermaceti j withdraw from 
 the fire, and then add eight ounces oil 
 of sweet almonds, eight ounces oil of 
 white poppy, and continue beating to- 
 gether without interval until the mixture 
 begins to get white, then put in half an 
 ounce of Mecca balsam and a gill of rose- 
 water, and prolong the rubbing until the 
 mixture will take up no more of rose 
 water, and detaches itself in large flakes 
 or lumps. 
 
 In filling the pots, take care to cover 
 the contents with a little rose-water. 
 This is among the best preparations for 
 softening the skin and preserving its 
 freshness. 
 
 Pommade de Ninon de UEnclos, by 
 Boyer. Take oil of sweet almonds, four 
 ounces ; washed lard, three ounces, rose- 
 water, three ounces. This pomade is 
 extremely mild and refreshing. 
 
 Pate divine de Venus, by Bourdel. 
 Mix together equal parts of purified lard, 
 fresh butter, and honey, and add a half 
 portion of Mecca balsam, and essence of 
 roses. 
 
 Almond Balls. Purified suet, one 
 pound ; white wax, half a pound ; otto 
 of almonds, one drachm j otto of cloves, 
 quarter of a drachm. 
 
 Camphor Balls. Purified suet, one 
 pound ; white wax. half a pound ; cam- 
 phor, quarter of a pound ; otto of French 
 lavender or rosemary, half an ounce. 
 
 Camphor Paste Sweet almond oil, 
 half a pound ; purified lard, quarter of a 
 pound ; wax, spermaceti and camphor, 
 each, one ounce. 
 
 Pate d'Amandes Aux Jaunes d'aufs. 
 To four ounces sweet almonds, pow- 
 dered finely in a marble mortar, add the 
 yolks of three fresh eggs, mix well, 
 thin out with eight ounces of milk, and 
 boil until it assumes the consistence of 
 paste, stirring constantly during the 
 ebullition. Perfume with one drachm 
 essence of vanilla. 
 
 Composition par Blaque, Paris, for 
 Softening the Skin. Butter, four pounds ; 
 oil of sweet almonds, four pounds ; com- 
 mon white soap, six pounds ; decoction 
 of marshmallow, eight pounds j alcohol, 
 one pint. 
 
 Melt and heat together, in a stoneware 
 vessel, over a water- bath, stirring well 
 all the time ; and when the whole is 
 thoroughly incorporated, pour out to 
 cool. Perfume according to taste. A 
 quantity of the size of a filbert, well 
 rubbed on, suffices for washing the 
 hands. 
 
 Camphor Cerate for Chapped Hands. 
 Take half an ounce of spermaceti, half an 
 ounce of white wax, scrape them into an 
 earthen vessel or pipkin (an earthen 
 jam-pot will do,) add six drachms of 
 pounded camphor, and pour on the whole 
 four table-spoonfuls of best olive oil ; let 
 it stand before the fire till it dissolves, stir- 
 ring it well when liquid. Before you 
 wash your hands, take a small piece of 
 the cerate, and rub it into your hands, 
 then wash them as usual. Putting the 
 cerate on before going to bed is very 
 good. The ingredients cost two shillings, 
 and this quantity will last for three win- 
 ters. The vessel should be covered, to 
 prevent evaporation. 
 
 To eradicate Warts. Dissolve as much 
 common washing soda as the water will 
 take up ; repeatedly wash with this for a 
 
COLD CREAM VINEGARS. 
 
 549 
 
 minute or two, and let them dry without 
 wiping. 
 
 Another Method. Get a little 
 lock's gall, keep it in a bottle, and rub a 
 little on the warts two or three times a 
 day. 
 
 Cold Cream. Lard, six ounces ; sper- 
 maceti, one ounce and a drachm and a 
 half ; white wax, three drachms ; rose- 
 water, three ounces ; carbonate of potass, 
 fifteen grains ; spirits of wine, three quar- 
 ters of an ounce ; essential oil of berga- 
 mot, three drachms. Melt the three first, 
 then add the rose-water, carbonate of 
 potass, and spirits of wine, stirring well. 
 and when nearly cold add the perfume. I 
 can safely say that this is first-rate, hav- 
 ing made many pounds of it. 
 
 To Whiten the Nails. Diluted sul- 
 phuric acid, two drachms ; tincture of 
 myrrh, one drachm ; spring water, four 
 ounces. Mix. First cleanse with white 
 soap, and then dip the fingers into the 
 mixture. 
 
 To Whiten the Hands. Take a wine- 
 glassful of Eau de Cologne, and another 
 of lemon-juice : then scrape two cakes of 
 brown Windsor soap to a powder, and 
 mix well in a mould. When hard, it will 
 be an excellent soap for whitening the 
 hands. 
 
 Rcse Lip Salve. Eight ounces sweet 
 almond oil, four ounces prepared mutton 
 suet, one and a half ounces white wax, 
 two ounces spermaceti, twenty drops 
 otto ; steep a small quantity of alkanet 
 root in the oil, and strain before using. 
 Melt the suet, wax, and spermaceti to- 
 gether, then add the coloric oil and otto. 
 
 jPommade de Beaute, for improving the 
 complexion, and healing chaps. Melt to- 
 gether over a water-bath white wax, one 
 and a half drachms ; spermaceti, two 
 drachms ; oil of sweet almonds, half an 
 ounce ; oil of olives, pure, half an ounce ; 
 oil of poppy, half an ounce j balsam Peru, 
 35 
 
 liquid, four drops. Add the balsam after 
 having well beaten the mixture. This is 
 an excellent cosmetic. 
 
 Glycerine Balsam. White wax, sper- 
 maceti, each one ounce ; almond oil, half 
 a pound ; glycerine, two ounces ; otto of 
 roses, quarter of a drachm. 
 
 White Lip Salve. Almond oil, quar- 
 ter of a pound ; wax and spermaceti, each 
 one ounce ; otto of almonds, half a drm. ; 
 otto of geranium, quarter of a drachm. 
 
 Common Lip Salve is made simply of 
 equal parts of lard and suet, colored with 
 alkanet root, and perfumed with an ounce 
 of bergamot to every pound of salve. 
 
 Pommade, ~by Dr. Pittschaft, Baden, 
 for Chapped Lips. Take sublimed oxide 
 of zinc, one drachm ; lycopodium powder, 
 one drachm ; pommade rosat, four ounces. 
 
 Mix, and make into a perfectly homo- 
 geneous pomade. 
 
 This is an excellent remedy for chap- 
 ped lips, and is beneficial in cases of ul- 
 ceration of the nails of the feet. Ita 
 application in such instances must be 
 immediately after bathing the affected 
 parts. 
 
 A toilet can be arranged and furnished 
 according to taste, where there is more 
 regard to convenience and comfort than 
 expense of outlay. The necessaries, how- 
 ever, for a dressing-table and washstand, 
 are two cakes of fine soap, a box of den- 
 tifrice, a pot of pomade for the hair, and 
 a box of lip salve. 
 
 Acetic Acid and its Use in Perfumery* 
 The pungency of the odor of vinegar 
 naturally brought it into the earliest use 
 in the art of perfumery. 
 
 The modern aromatic vinegar is the 
 concentrated acetic acid aromatized with 
 various ottos, camphor, &c., thus : 
 
 Aromatic Vinegar. Concentrated ace- 
 tic acid, eight ounces ; otto of English 
 lavender, two drachms ; otto of English 
 
550 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 rosemary, one drachm ; otto of cloves, 
 one drachm ; camphor, one ounce. 
 , First dissolve the bruised camphor in 
 the acetic acid, then add the perfumes ; 
 after remaining together for a few days, 
 with occasional agitation, it is to be 
 strained, and is then ready for use. 
 
 The most popular article of this kind 
 is 
 
 Henry's Vinegar. Dried leaves of 
 rosemary, rue, wormwood, sage, mint, 
 and lavender flowers, each half an ounce j 
 bruised nutmeg, cloves, angelica root, and 
 camphor, each quarter of an ounce ; alco- 
 hol (rectified), four ounces ; concentrated 
 acetic acid, sixteen ounces. 
 
 Macerate the materials for a day in the 
 spirit ; then add the acid, digest for a 
 week, and filter it. 
 
 Vinaigre a la Rose. Concentrated 
 acetic acid, one ounce ; otto of roses, half 
 a drachm. Well shaken together. 
 
 It is obvious that vinegars differently 
 perfumed may be made in a similar man- 
 ner to the above, by using other ottos in 
 place of the otto of roses. All these con- 
 centrated vinegars are used in the same 
 way as perfumed ammonia, that is, by 
 pouring three or four drachms into an 
 ornamental " smelling " bottle, pre- 
 viously filled with crystals of sulphate of 
 potash, which forms the " sel de vinaigre " 
 of the shops ; or upon sponge into little 
 silver boxes, called vinaigrettes, from their 
 French origin. The use of these vinegars 
 had their origin in the notion that 
 they kept those who carried them from 
 the effects of infectious disease. 
 
 Mint Vinegar. This is made by put- 
 ting into a wide-mouthed bottle, fresh 
 nice clean mint leaves enough to fill it 
 loosely ; then fill up the bottle with good 
 vinegar,; and after it has been stopped 
 close for two or three weeks, it is to be 
 poured off' clear into another bottle, and 
 kept well corked for use. Serve with 
 lamb when mint cannot be obtained. 
 
 Thieves* Vinegar. Take of rue. sage, 
 mint, rosemary, wormwood, and laven- 
 der, a large handful of each ; infuse in 
 one gallon of vitfegar, in a stone jar 
 closely covered, and keep warm by the 
 fire for four days, then strain, and add one 
 ounce of camphor, pounded ; bottle, and 
 keep well corked. There is a legend con- 
 nected with this preparation (called in 
 French Vinaigre d quatre Voleurs\ that 
 during the plague at Marseilles certain 
 robbers plundered the infected houses 
 with impunity, and being apprehended 
 and condemned to death, were pardoned 
 on condition of disclosing the secret of 
 their preventive as above. The mode of 
 using is to wash the face and hands with 
 it previous to exposure to any infection. 
 
 Vinaigre Virginal. This mild and re- 
 freshing liquor is excellent to remove 
 prickly heat, but, before being used for 
 such purpose, must be diluted with wa- 
 ter. 
 
 Take benzoin pulverized, two ounces ; 
 alcohol, eight ounces ; vinegar, two 
 pounds. 
 
 Digest the benzoin in the alcohol for a 
 week, decant the liquor, and to the re- 
 sidue add the vinegar ; after six days' 
 infusion, this too is decanted, and it and 
 the alcoholic tincture are mixed together, 
 and filtered the next day. This vinegar 
 weakened with water is a most excellent 
 cosmetic, and is in fact a remedy for the 
 ill effects of pernicious rouges and paints 
 upon the skin. 
 
 Of Vinegars ly Infusion. These are 
 either vinegars of flowers or aromatic 
 
 Vinaigre de Toilette, ly Sinfar, Paris. 
 Alcohol eight quarts ; white vifte- 
 gar, two quarts ; cologne water, one 
 pint ; extract of benzoin, two ounces ; 
 extract of storax, two ounces ; acetic acid, 
 four ounces ; essence of lavender, one 
 ounce and a half ; essence of cinnamon, 
 
VINEGAKS SALTS. 
 
 551 
 
 one drachm ; essence of cloves, one 
 drachm ; ammonia, one drachm. 
 
 Mix together the alcohol, lavender, 
 cinnamon and cloves, and macerate for 
 eight days ; then add the vinegars, co- 
 logne, extracts, and ammonia ; color, and 
 filter through paper. 
 
 Vinaigre JSosat. Dry rose leaves, red, 
 half a pint ; good vinegar, eight quarts. 
 Macerate for two weeks hi a closed ves- 
 sel, and after that filter. 
 
 Vinaigre a la Fleur ct? Granger. Fresh 
 orange flowers, one and a half pounds ; 
 vinegar, eight quarts ; brandy a la fleur 
 d 1 Granger* one quart. Macerate for twelve 
 days, and filter. 
 
 Vinaigres Infusees d la Lavande, de 
 Sauge, Thyme, &c. One pound of fresh 
 flowers to twelve quarts of vinegar. 
 
 Vinaigre Scillitique, for clearing the 
 Voice. Among speakers and vocalists, 
 it is desirable, before commencing the 
 exercises of their vocation, that the 
 throat be freed from all pituitous hoarse- 
 ness. This vinegar accomplishes that 
 object, and besides imparting a tone to 
 the glottis and all the organs, it serves to 
 develop and perfect the voice. Put five 
 or six drops of the preparation in a glass 
 of warm water,, and gargle therewith 
 morning, noon, and night of the days on 
 which the voice is to be exerted. Take 
 of dried squills, one part ; good vinegar, 
 twelve parts ; alcohol, half a part. After 
 two weeks' maceration in a close vessel, 
 press out and filter. 
 
 Vinaigre Alcoholique, for Fits and 
 Swoons. Mix together equal parts of 
 strong concentrated vinegar and alcohol ; 
 and, to increase its force, add two drops 
 of ether to the quart. This composition 
 is most excellent in cases of faulting and 
 swooning. 
 
 The best preparation for smelling- 
 bottles is what is termed Inexhaustible 
 Salts, which is prepared thus : Liquid 
 ammonia, one pint j otto of rosemary 
 
 one drachm ; otto of English lavender, 
 one drachm ; otto of bergamot, half a 
 drachm ; otto of cloves, half a drachm. 
 Mix the whole together with agitation 
 in a very strong and well stoppered 
 bottle. 
 
 This mixture is used by filling the 
 smelling-bottles with any porous absorb- 
 ent material, such as asbestos, or, what 
 is better, sponge cuttings, that have been 
 well be,aten, washed and dried. These 
 will retain the ammoniacal odor longer 
 than any other material ; hence, we pre- 
 sume, bottles filled in this way are called 
 "inexhaustible," which name, however, 
 they do not sustain more than two or 
 three months with any credit j the warm 
 hand soon dissipates the ammonia under 
 any circumstances, and they require to 
 be refilled. 
 
 Preston Salts, which is the cheapest 
 of all the ammoniacal compounds, is com- 
 posed of some easily decomposable salt of 
 ammonia and lime, such as equal parts 
 of muriate of ammonia, or of sesqui-car- 
 bonate of ammonia, and of fresh-slaked 
 lime. When the bottles are filled with 
 this compound, rammed in very hard, a 
 drop or two of some cheap otto is poured 
 on the top prior to corking. For this 
 purpose otto of French lavender, or otto 
 of bergamot, answers very well. We 
 need* scarcely mention that the corks are 
 dipped into melted sealing-wax. 
 
 Cassolettes and Printaniers. Casso- 
 lettes and printaniers are little ivory boxes 
 of various designs, perforated in order to 
 allow the escape of the odors contained 
 therein. The paste used for filling these 
 "ivory palaces whereby we are made 
 glad," is composed of equal parts of grain 
 musk, ambergris, seeds of the vanilla- 
 pod, otto of roses, and orris powder, with 
 enough gum acacia, or gum tragacanth } 
 to work the whole together into a paste. 
 These things are now principally used for 
 perfuming the pocket or reticule, much 
 
552 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 in the same way that ornamental silver 
 and gold vinaigrettes are used. 
 
 Sachet a la Frangipanne. Orris-root 
 powder, three pounds ; vitivert powder, 
 a quarter of a pound ; santal-wood pow- 
 der, a quarter of a pound ; olto of neroli, 
 one drachm ; otto of rose, one drachm ; 
 otto of santal, one drachm ; musk-pods, 
 ground, one ounce. 
 
 The name of this sachet has been hand- 
 ed down to us as being derived jfrom a 
 Roman alchemist of the noble family of 
 Frangipani. 
 
 Heliotrope Sachet. Powdered orris, 
 two pounds ; rose leaves, ground, one 
 pound; tonquin beans, ground, half a 
 pound; vanilla beans, a quarter of a 
 pound; grain musk, a quarter of an 
 ounce ; otto of almonds, five drops. Well 
 mixed by sifting in a coarse sieve, it is 
 fit for sale. 
 
 It is one of the best sachets made, and 
 is so like in its odor to the flower from 
 which it derives its name, that no person 
 unacquainted with its composition would, 
 for an instant, believe it to be any other 
 than the " real thing." 
 
 Lavender Sachet. Lavender flowers, 
 ground, one pound ; gum benzoin, in 
 powder, a quarter of a pound ; otto of 
 lavender, a quarter of an ounce. 
 
 Sachet d la Mousselaine. Vitivert, 
 in powder, one pound ; santal-wood, half 
 a pound ; orris, half a pound ; black cur- 
 rant leaves, half a pound; benzoin, 
 in powder, a quarter of a pound ; otto of 
 thyme, five drops ; otto of roses, half a 
 drachm. 
 
 Mittefleur Sachet. Lavender flowers, 
 ground, one pound; orris, one pound; 
 rose leaves, one pound; benzoin, one 
 pound ; tonquin, a quarter of a pound ; 
 vanilla, a quarter of a pound; santal, a 
 quarter of a pound ; musk and civet, 
 two drachms ; cloves, ground, a quarter 
 of a pound ; cinnamon, two ounces ; all- 
 spice two ounces. 
 
 Portugal Sachet. Dried orange-peel^ 
 one pound; dried lemon-peel, half a 
 pound ; dried orris root, half a pound ; 
 otto of orange-peel, one ounce ; otto of 
 neroli, a quarter of a drachm ; otto of 
 lemon grass, a quarter of a drachm. 
 
 Patchouli/ Sachet. Patchouly herb, 
 ground, one pound ; otto of patchouly, a 
 quarter of a drachm. Patchouly herb is 
 often sold in its natural state, as import- 
 ed^ tied up in bundles of half a pound 
 each. 
 
 Pot Pourri. This is a mixture of 
 dried flowers and spices not ground. 
 Dried lavender, one pound ; whole rose- 
 leaves, one pound ; crushed orris, coarse^ 
 half a pound ; broken cloves, two ounces ; 
 broken cinnamon, two ounces; broken 
 allspice, two ounces. 
 
 Rose Sachet. Rose heels or leaves, one 
 pound; santal wood, ground, half a 
 pound ; otto of roses, a quarter of an 
 ounce. 
 
 An excellent Water to prevent Hair 
 from falling off^ and to thicken it. Put 
 four pounds of unadulterated honey into 
 a still, with twelve handfuls of the ten- 
 drils or vines, and the same quantity of 
 rosemary-tops. Distil as cool and as 
 slowly as possible. The liquor may be 
 allowed to drop till it begins to taste 
 sour. 
 
 Tooth Powder. Powdered orris root, 
 half an ounce ; powdered charcoal, two 
 ounces ; powdered Peruvian bark, one 
 ounce ; prepared chalk, half an ounce ; 
 oil of bergamot or lavender, twenty drops. 
 These ingredients must be well worked 
 up in a mortar, until thoroughly incor- 
 porated. This celebrated tooth-powder 
 possesses three essential virtues, giving 
 an odorous breath, cleansing and purify- 
 ing the gums, and preserving the enamel ; 
 the last rarely found in popular tooth- 
 powders. 
 
 Bandoline for the Hair (a French 
 
PASTILLES, ETC. 
 
 553 
 
 receipt). To one quart of water put half 
 an ounce of quince pips, boil it nearly an 
 hour, stirring it well, strain it through 
 a fine muslin, let it stand twenty-four 
 hours, and then add fourteen drops of 
 the essential oil of almonds. A dessert 
 spoonful of brandy may be added, if re- 
 quired to keep a long time. 
 
 Economical Hair Wash. Take one 
 ownce of borax, half an ounce of cam- 
 phor, powder these ingredients fine, and 
 dissolve them in one quart of boiling 
 water ; when cool, the solution will be 
 ready for use ; damp the hair frequently. 
 This wash not only effectually cleanses 
 and beautifies, but strengthens the hair, 
 preserves the color, and prevents early 
 baldness. The camphor will form into 
 lumps, but the water will be sufficiently 
 impregnated. 
 
 - To make a Curling Fluid for the Hair. 
 Melt a bit of white bees'-wax, about the 
 size of a filbert kernel, in one ounce of 
 olive oil, to this add one or two drops of 
 otto of roses. 
 
 Rose Bandoline. Gum tragacanth, six 
 ounces ; rose water, one gallon ; otto of 
 roses, half an ounce. Steep the gum in 
 water well, strain and mix thoroughly. 
 
 Simple Pastilles. Benzoin, half an 
 ounce ; cassia, one drachm ; charcoal, two 
 ounces ; salpetre, one drachm. Reduce 
 all to powder, and mix into a paste with 
 a solution of one ounce of gum tragacanth 
 to the pint. 
 
 Pastilles au ~benzoj,n. Take half a 
 pound of benzoin, four or five grains of 
 storax, five grains of cassia, two drachms 
 of dry Peru balsam, half a drachm of 
 cloves ; half an ounce of charcoal ; one 
 drachm of nitre, half a drachm essential 
 oil of orange flowers, and half a drachm 
 tincture of ambergris. All these materials 
 must be in fine powder. 
 
 Pastilles a- la rose. Gum, in impalpa- 
 
 ble powder, six ounces ; olibanum, in im- 
 palpable powder, six ounces ; storax, in 
 impalpable powder, six ounces; salt- 
 petre, in impalpable powder, four ounces ; 
 Powder a la rose, impalpable powder, 
 eight ounces ; charcoal, impalpable pow- 
 der, two pounds ; essence of roses, half 
 an ounce. Mix together the powders, 
 and add to them a quart of rose water in 
 which has been dissolved an ounce of 
 gum tragacanth. Rub up well in a mor- 
 tar, and of this paste form the pastilles. 
 They are burned upon a handsome chaf- 
 ing-dish or perfume-pan made for the 
 purpose. 
 
 Paper. There are two 
 modes of preparing this article : 1. Take 
 sheets of light cartridge paper, and dip 
 them into a solution of alum say, alum, 
 one ounce ; water, one pint. After they 
 are thoroughly moistened, let them be 
 well dried ; upon one side of this paper 
 spread a mixture of equal parts of gum 
 benzoin, olibanum, and either balm of 
 Tolu or Peruvian balsam ; or the benzoin 
 may be used alone. To spread the gum, 
 &c., it is necessary that they be melted 
 in an earthenware vessel, and poured 
 thinly over the paper, finally smoothing 
 the surface with a hot spatula. When 
 required for use, slips of this paper are 
 held over a candle or lamp, in order to 
 evaporate the odorous matter, but not 
 to ignite it. The alum in the paper pre- 
 vents it to a certain extent from tturning. 
 
 2. Sheets of good light paper are to be 
 steeped in a solution of saltpetre, in the 
 proportions of two ounces of the salt to 
 one pint of water, to be afterwards 
 thoroughly dried. 
 
 Any of the odoriferous gums, as myrrh, 
 olibanum, benzoin, &c., are to be dissolv- 
 ed to saturation in rectified spirit, and 
 with a brush spread upon one side of the 
 paper, which, being hung up, rapidly 
 dries. 
 
 Slips of this paper are to be rolled up 
 
554 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 as spills, to be ignited, and then to be 
 blown out. 
 
 The nitre in the paper causes a con- 
 tinuance of slow combustion, diffusing 
 during that time the agreeable perfume 
 of the odoriferous gums. If two of these 
 sheets of paper be pressed together be- 
 fore the surface is dry, they will join and 
 become as one. When cut into slips, 
 they form what are called Odoriferous 
 Lighters, or Perfumed Spills. 
 
 FRAGRANT PASTILLES FOR NECK- 
 LACES OR BRACELETS. 
 Pate de JKoses. Rose leaves, two 
 ounces ; lampblack, one and a half 
 drachms ; isinglass, one ounce j gum tra- 
 gacanth, half ounce. 
 
 Dissolve the gum and isinglass in boil- 
 ing water, thicken the solution by eva- 
 poration, and add thereto the other ar- 
 ticles previously mixed together. When 
 the paste is homogeneous, knead it well 
 in mass, and divide into small beads. It 
 can also be moulded into a variety of 
 forms and designs, in relief, resembling 
 cameos and similar ornaments. 
 
 Pate de Menthe ou de Jasmin. Flow- 
 ers of mint or jasmine, one ounce ; gum 
 tragacanth, half ounce ; vermillion, two 
 ounces. In this way red-colored pastilles 
 are made. 
 
 Pastilles for Bad Breath Chocolate, 
 three ounces ; charcoal, one ounce ; 
 sugar, one ounce ; vanilla, one ounce ; 
 mucilage, quantum sufficit. Make into loz- 
 enges of five grains, and take four or five 
 daily. 
 
 Preparation for Bad Breath. Dry 
 chloride of lime, three drachms j distilled 
 water, two ounces. 
 
 Powder the chloride of lime in a glass 
 mortar, and then add a part of the dis- 
 tilled water ; stir up and let it repose for 
 some minutes ; when settled, decant the 
 clear liquor. Add a new quantity of 
 water to the residue, triturate, and after 
 sufficient rest, again draw off the clear 
 
 liquor. Repeat this washing and decant- 
 ing a third time ; add all the clear solu- 
 tions together, and filter. To the liquid 
 running through, add two ounces alcohol, 
 in which four drops oil of rose and four 
 drops of any other desired oil are dis- 
 solved. 
 
 The solution, thus prepared, removes 
 the fetid odor of diseased gums. The 
 dose is half a table-spoonful in a tum- 
 bler of water, with which the gums are 
 moistened daily by means of a sponge or 
 brush. 
 
 Keep the bottle always closely stop- 
 pered to retard decomposition. 
 
 To Crystallize Flowers. Construct 
 some baskets of fancy form with pliable 
 copper wire, and wrap them with gauze. 
 Into these tie to the bottom violets, ferns, 
 geranium leaves, in fact, any flowers 
 except full-blown roses, and sink them 
 in a solution of alum, of one pound to a" 
 gallon of water, after the solution has 
 cooled. 'the colors will then be pre- 
 served in their original beauty, and the 
 crystallized alum will hold faster than 
 when from a hot solution. When you 
 have a light covering of crystals that 
 completely covers the articles, remove 
 the basket carefully, and allow to drip 
 for twelve hours. These baskets make a 
 beautiful parlor ornament, and for a long 
 time preserve the freshness of the flowers. 
 
 Hair-dyes. Nearly all the hair-dyes 
 in use at the present time contain some 
 form of lead, and are therefore danger- 
 ous. The symptoms most commonly re- 
 sulting from their use are partial paraly- 
 sis, numbness of the back of the head 
 and neck, often extending to the arm 
 and wrist, pains in the stomach and 
 bowels, with other indications of lead 
 poisoning. During the past few years, 
 since these dyes have been largely used, 
 many lives have been sacrificed ; and 
 those of ruined health or impaired con- 
 stitutions may be counted by thousands. 
 
HAIR DTE DEPILATORY. 
 
 555 
 
 These preparations are generally 
 represented to be harmless. The nox- 
 ious ingredient being usually lead, this 
 may be readily detected by adding to a 
 little of the suspected dye a few drops 
 of a solution of hydriodate of potash, to 
 be obtained at any drug store. One 
 drachm dissolved in an ounce of water 
 will be of sufficient strength. The 
 preparation, if it contains lead, will be 
 instantly changed to a bright orange 
 color, the product being hydriodate of 
 lead. As appears by Prof. C. F. Chand- 
 ler's Report to the Board of Health of 
 New York City, fifteen out of sixteen 
 preparations for the hair which he ana- 
 lyzed contained lead in varied proportions 
 from .11 to 16.39 grains in one fluid ounce. 
 
 Even without a resort to chemical 
 re-agents, one may usually satisfy himself 
 of the contents of these compounds by 
 the peculiar sticky feeling of acetate of 
 lead when rubbed between the fingers, 
 or by placing a drop upon the tongue 
 and noting the sweetish astringent taste 
 of the salt. Avoid as you would any 
 other deadly poison all dyes or hair- 
 dressings which contain lead in any of 
 its various forms. See Hair-dressing 
 page 566. 
 
 Chinese Depilatory. Quicklime, one 
 pound ; pearlash and sulphuret of potas- 
 sium, each, two ounces. Triturate to- 
 gether, sieve, and preserve the fine pow- 
 der in a well-stopped bottle. 
 
 Creme Parisienne Depilatoire.Take 
 quicklime, two ounces ; orpiment (sul- 
 phuret of arsenic), half an ounce ; alka- 
 net in powder, two drachms. 
 
 Mix together and pack up in bottles or 
 boxes, bearing directions as follows, and 
 to be strictly conformed to in the appli- 
 cation of the powder : 
 
 Put some pinches into a saucer or egg- 
 glass, and pour upon it enough warm wa- 
 ter to thin it into a pasty or pap consis- 
 tence, and apply it in this form to the 
 
 places to be depilated. Let it remain five 
 to eight minutes, then moisten with a 
 little warm water, and gently remove the 
 dampened stuff with the point of a knife. 
 Afterwards sponge the part with warm 
 water and dry without rubbing. 
 
 It is necessary that there should al- 
 ways be an interval of twenty-four hours 
 between any two applications of this 
 powder. 
 
 Eau de Javelle (rectified.') This water 
 is used both as a disinfectant, and for the 
 removal of fruit, rust, and ink stains. It 
 is prepared by saturating an aqueous so- 
 lution of potash with chlorine gas. A 
 few drops, washing the linen afterwards 
 with soap, will bleach it perfectly. 
 
 Ink for Marking Linen. Sulphate of 
 manganese, one drachm ; distilled wa- 
 ter, one drachiQ ; powdered sugar, two 
 drachms ; lampblack, half a drachm. 
 
 Make into a semi-liquid paste. This 
 paste is used with a stamp. The mark 
 is dried, then washed in solution of caus- 
 tic potash and dried anew ; then again 
 washed in water. The name now stands 
 out boldly. 
 
 Shaving Pastes. White wax, sperma- 
 ceti, amd almond oil, of each, quarter of 
 an ounce ; melt, and while warm, beat 
 in two squares of Windsor soap, pre- 
 viously reduced to a paste, with rose 
 water. 
 
 Another. Melt together half an ounce 
 each of spermaceti, white wax, and oil of 
 almonds ; beat it up with three ounces 
 of the best soap, and a sufficient quantity 
 of eau de Cologne. 
 
 Preparation of Good Hair Dye. Ten 
 grains gallic acid in one ounce weak al- 
 cohol. 
 
 For the Ztye. Four grains nitrate of 
 silver in one ounce of water with half a 
 drachm of aqua ammonia. 
 
 Add the ammonia cautiously till the 
 precipitate dissolves. 
 
THE FAMILY MEDICAL GUIDE. 
 
 No directions here given are intended 
 to supply the place of medical attendance. 
 A little medical knowledge is a danger- 
 ous thing, and this temporizing with the 
 constitution is often attended with the 
 worst results. It would, therefore, be 
 an act, of folly and danger for the non- 
 professional to presume to decide on the 
 ailment, and equally so to prescribe for 
 it. At the same time, it is well to gain 
 all the information possible. 
 
 The following recipes have been sub- 
 mitted to a physician : 
 
 For Hooping Cough. Dissolve one 
 scruple of salt of tartar in a gill of soft 
 water ; add to it ten grains of cochineal, 
 finely powdered, and sweeten it with 
 lump sugar. The dose for an infant is a 
 teaspoonful four times a day ; from five 
 years old upwards, a table-spoonful may 
 be taken. The following embrocation for 
 spasmodic coughs of all kinds, as well as 
 for inflammatory croup, is valuable : Two 
 drachms of tincture of opium, two ounces 
 of camphor liniment. A teaspoonful to 
 be rubbed in over the throat and chest 
 every night and morning, and cover the 
 parts immediately with flannel. If the 
 chest is loaded with phlegm, a gentle 
 emetic must be given once, twice, or 
 three times a week, as required. Ipeca- 
 cuanha wine is most suitable, and the 
 dose for a child of four or five years is 
 two and a half or three drachms. 
 
 During the first stages of this disorder 
 
 the patient should breathe an equal tem- 
 perature, as nearly as it can be managed, 
 not too warm and close, but equal ; and 
 when the virulence of the disorder has 
 passed away, the open air (if the weather 
 be mild) may be frequently resorted to : 
 and a change of air, where it is practi- 
 cable, will often remove at once all remains 
 of the 'complaint. 
 
 The diet is, of paramount importance , 
 and for children of evet; six and seven 
 years of age. ought to be little more than 
 milk and broth. Should the milk be 
 found to curdle on the stomach, a little 
 common salt must be added. If thirst 
 prevails, a little toast and water may be 
 given. If the attack, from its length and 
 severity, should cause a loss of strength, 
 it will soon be recruited by a cold infusion 
 of bark, gentle exercise, pure air, and diet 
 of nourishing broth. 
 
 Mixture for Hooping Cough. Ipeca- 
 cuanha wine, two drachms ; carbonate of 
 soda, half a drachm ; paregoric elixir, two 
 drachms ; water, one ounce. A teaspoon- 
 ful or two (according to the age of the 
 patient) may be given three times a 
 day. 
 
 Scarlet Fever, or Scarlatina. This 
 disease begins with the common symp- 
 toms of fever, often with languor and 
 disposition to fainting, shiverings, sick- 
 ness, a quick pulse, and pain in the head ; 
 there is frequently, very early in the dis- 
 order, a stitfness of the muscles of the 
 
FAMILY MEDICAL GUIDE. 
 
 557 
 
 neck, which is soon followed by some 
 difficulty in swallowing. 
 
 To determine the eruption to the sur- 
 face of the body, it will be right to give 
 the simple saline, made as follows : Take 
 of citric acid one drachm and a half; bi 
 carbonate of potash, two drachms ; water, 
 seven ounces and a half; simple syrup, 
 half an ounce; spirits of nitre, two 
 drachms. Mix, and take a sixth part 
 every four hours. If the child is very 
 young, give half the dose. 
 
 Throughout the whole of this disease 
 it will be advisable to make frequent use 
 of some detergent (cleansing) gargle, 
 which in young children must be thrown 
 into the throat with a syringe. 
 
 Detergent Gargle. Take of purified 
 alum one drachm ; barley water, half a 
 pint ; honey of roses, one ounce. 
 
 Draught for Palpitation of the Heart, 
 with great nervous Irritability. Tinc- 
 ture of foxglove, ten drops ; , camphor 
 mixture, one ounce ; tincture of columba, 
 one drachm. This draught may be taken 
 twice a day. 
 
 Mixture for Children Teething, when 
 the Bowels are disordered. Chalk mix- 
 ture, fifteen drachms ; tincture of cinna- 
 mon, one drachm. Mix together. Two 
 teaspoonfuls to be given three or four 
 times a day .as required. 
 
 Primrose Ointment, for Burns and 
 Ulcers. Bruise one pound of the leaves 
 of this well known plant, in a mortar, 
 along with half a pound of the flowers ; 
 simmer these in an equal quantity of j 
 hog's-lard, without salt, until the prim- j 
 roses become crisp ; after which the oint- : 
 rnent, whilst fluid, must be strained I 
 through a coarse sieve. This is an ex- 
 cellent application for obstinate ulcers or | 
 burns. & 
 
 V 
 
 Excellent Medicine for Indigestion. 
 Carbonate of magnesia, one ounce ; car- 
 
 bonate of soda, one ounce ; powdered 
 ginger, one drachm ; best Turkey rhubarb, 
 half a drachm. Well mixed in a mortar, 
 to be kept in a bottle with a glass stopper. 
 The dose for an adult is half a teaspoon- 
 fuL 
 
 For Inflammation of the Eyes. Bran- 
 dy, one teaspoonful ; white wine vinegar, 
 one teaspoonful; soft water, nine tea- 
 spoonfuls. Mix and to be used fre- 
 quently. 
 
 Cure for Ringworm,. The head to be 
 washed twice a day with soft soap and 
 warm soft water ; when dried, the places 
 to be rubbed with a piece of linen rag 
 dipped in ammonia from gas tar ; the 
 patient should take a little sulphur and 
 molasses, or some other gentle aperient, 
 every morning; brushes and combs 
 should be washed every day, and the am- 
 monia kept tightly corked. 
 
 Or : Mix pyroligneous acid with one- 
 third of water ; rub the spots carefully 
 for three mornings : if cured, a scurf will 
 appear, which must be softened with cold 
 cream, or lard without salt, but no soap 
 or water must be used. 
 
 It is desirable to cut off the hair from 
 the immediate neighborhood of the ring j 
 and after tfie cure is effected, weaken the 
 lotion still farther, by the addition of 
 more water, and well wash the head all 
 over with it. It seldom happens that 
 an internal use of medicine is requisite ; 
 but where the disease is very inveterate, 
 I would recommend a powder to be 
 given at bed-time, once or twice. The 
 following will answer very well for a 
 child of seven years of age : calomel, one 
 grain ; jalap, powder, eight grains. 
 
 The great Abernethy used to say poul- 
 tices were blessings or curses, as they 
 were made ; I cannot, therefore, insert a 
 more useful recipe than that of this cele- 
 brated surgeon's for a well made 
 
 Bread and Water Poultice. Scald out 
 
558 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 a basin, into which boiling water is to be 
 turned, then add coarsely-crumbled bread 
 as much as the water will absorb. After 
 a little time drain off the surplus water, 
 and spread the light pulp remaining one- 
 third of an inch thick on folded linen, 
 and apply it of the temperature of a 
 warm bath. As it becomes dry from the 
 heat of the part, moisten by dropping 
 on a little warm water. 
 
 Fever and Ague. The title of inter- 
 mittent is applied to that kind of fever, 
 which consists of a succession of parox- 
 ysms, between each of which there is a 
 distinct and perfect intermission from 
 fever symptoms. When it comes on 
 within the space of twenty-four hours, it 
 is called a quoitidian, when it returns 
 every other day, it is called a tertian ; 
 and when it attends on the first and 
 fourth day, it is named a quartan ague. 
 It is very generally acknowledged that 
 marsh exhalations, or the effluvia arising 
 from stagnant water when acted upon by 
 heat, are the most frequent exciting 
 causes of ague. 
 
 Uncleared lands are also a fruitful 
 cause. Hence its prevalence in all new 
 countries. Intermittent fever often ap- 
 pears in disguise ; sometimes putting on 
 the form of periodical headache or neu- 
 ralgia, which come on with the same 
 regularity as the chill, and seem to take 
 its place. At other times it is still more 
 obscure, existing in the form of dumb 
 ague, as it is termed. Under all these 
 disguises there is usually but little diffi- 
 culty in detecting it, through its regular 
 periodical return being generally 
 prompt to the hour, and not unfrequently 
 to the minute. Periodicity, therefore, 
 rather than peculiar symptoms, is the 
 test of miasmal complaints. The usual 
 mode of treating fever and ague has 
 been with tonics, with the view of 
 breaking the chill, but nothing is done to 
 remove the disease of the liver and 
 
 other organs on which the chill and 
 fever depend. Relapses are the conse- 
 quence. The sufferer is only cured for 
 a time: he is relieved of a symptom of 
 disease, not of the disease itself. We 
 know of no compound more reliable for 
 a thorough and effectual cure than Os- 
 good's Cholagogue, a medicine which 
 has been before the public more than 
 thirty years, and has become the standard 
 remedy for these complaints. The pub- 
 lisher of this book has for a long time 
 used it himself, and in his family, and 
 often recommended it to others, and is 
 yet to learn of an instance in which it 
 has failed to effect a cure. It is espe- 
 cially valuable also as a preventive for 
 persons residing in malarial regions, or 
 traveling through them. By taking a 
 teaspoonful of the cholagogue, morning 
 and night, when thus exposed, all danger, 
 with ordinary care, will be avoided. 
 
 Erysipelas. This disease is an inflam- 
 matory affection principally of the skin, 
 when it makes its appearance externally. 
 If there is fever and inflammation, it will 
 be proper to administer aperient medi- 
 cines, and nothing, .perhaps, suits your 
 purpose better than the old-fashioned 
 black-draught senna and salts. The ex^ 
 ternal application of Goulard's Lotion 
 will allay heat and irritation. The pa- 
 tient must drink freely of tea, bran tea, or 
 warm barley water, and this is a neces- 
 sary part of the treatment, which must 
 never be neglected. The vesicles must 
 be kept lightly covered with pure, un- 
 adulterated wheat flour; when the in- 
 flammatory symptoms run high, the diet 
 must consist of light nourishing food, such 
 as sago, arrowroot, bread pudding, and 
 such like things ; but in those cases 
 where symptoms of irritation prevail, 
 a more generous diet, such as animal 
 broths, ought to be allowed. 
 
 Spirit Wash. Half a gill of spirits of 
 
FAMILY MEDICAL GUIDE. 
 
 559 
 
 wine, or a gill of brandy, added to a pint 
 of water, makes this wash useful in al- 
 laying the pain of extensive bruises. 
 
 Plummets Pill, for Eruptions on the 
 Skin. Calomel and antimony, of each, 
 one drachm j guaiacum powder, two 
 drachms. 
 
 Useful Mixture for Diarrhoea in In- 
 fants. Carbonate of magnesia, half a 
 drachm ; rhubarb, in powder, twenty 
 grains ; dill water, three ounces ; aroma- 
 tic spirit of ammonia, thirty drops ; su- 
 gar, teaspoonful. Mix : Two teaspoon- 
 fuls may be given two or three times a 
 day. 
 
 Goulard Lotion, or Lead Wash, may 
 be made by dissolving one drachm of 
 sugar of lead in a pint of soft water. 
 Some persons are very fond of using this 
 wash, with the adoption of spirits of 
 wine, as an evaporate ; but I do not like 
 it, for it renders the skin very dry and 
 harsh, and its sedative virtue acting 
 through unbroken skin, is not of much 
 value. Tinder other circumstances it is 
 very often useful. 
 
 When used as a wash for the eyes, 
 two grains of the sugar of lead are to be 
 dissolved in two table-spoonfuls of water. 
 
 Bran Tea. A very cheap and useful 
 drink in colds, fevers, and restlessness 
 from pain. Put a handful of bran in a 
 pint and a half of cold water, let it boil 
 rather more than half an hour, then 
 strain it, and, if desired, flavor with su- 
 gar and lemon-juice ; but it is a pleasant 
 drink without any addition. 
 
 Electuary for Scorbutic Eruptions. 
 Peruvian bark, powdered, half an ounce ; 
 aromatic confection, half an ounce j syrup 
 of oranges, sufficient quantity to mix the 
 bark and confection ; and take the size 
 of a nutmeg, three times a day, in a glass 
 of seidlitz or soda water. 
 
 Draught for Hysteric Patients. Cam- 
 phor mixture, one ounce j foetid spirit of 
 ammonia, two drachms. 
 
 I 
 
 Fever Draught. Almond mixture, one 
 ounce ; carbonate of potass, twenty 
 grains ; syrup of poppies, one drachm. 
 Pour into this a table-spoonful of lemon 
 juice, and drink while effervescing. 
 
 Ointments. The base of all ointments 
 is grease, and they are used for dressing 
 wounds and sores, to prevent the stick- 
 ing of the lint or linen with which they 
 are covered, and protect them from the 
 air ; the most simple kinds serve this 
 purpose best; but sometimes medicine 
 of various kinds is mixed up with grease, 
 to form ointments, through the means 
 of which the medicine acts on the sur- 
 face of the sore. 
 
 Simple Ointment is made by melting 
 in a pipkin by the side of the fire, with- 
 out lotting, one part of yellow or white 
 wax, and two parts of hog's lard, without 
 salt or olive oil. 
 
 Resin Ointment or Yellow Basilicon is 
 composed of two ounces of yellow wax, 
 five ounces of white resin, and seven 
 ounces of hog's-lard ; these must be 
 slowly melted together, and stirred con- 
 stantly with a stick, till completely 
 mixed. 
 
 This ointment is sometimes used in 
 treating scalds and burns ; also for 
 dressing blisters, when it is wished to 
 keep up a discharge from them for a few 
 days. This is a stimulating ointment. 
 
 Calamine Ointment, or Turners Ce- 
 rate, consists of half a pound of yellow 
 wax, and a pint of olive oil, which are to 
 be melted together ; this being done, 
 half a pound of calamine powder is to be 
 sifted in, and stirred till the whole be 
 completely mixed. 
 
 This is an excellent ointment for stim- 
 ulating sluggish wounds or sores. 
 
 Development of the Lungs. Multi- 
 tudes, and especially ladies in easy circum- 
 stances, contract a vicious and destruc- 
 tive mode of breathing, not carrying the 
 breath half way down the chest, and 
 
560 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 scarcely expanding the lower portions of 
 the chest at all. Children that move 
 about a great deal in the open air, and are 
 in no way laced, breathe deep and full in 
 the bottom of the chest, and every part 
 of it. The lungs give us the power of 
 action, and the more exercise we take, 
 especially out of doors, the larger the 
 lungs become, and the less liable to dis- 
 ease. In all occupations that require 
 standing, keep the person straight. If at 
 table, let it be high, raised up nearly to 
 the* armpits, so as not to require you to 
 stoop ; you will find the employment 
 much easier ; while the form of the 
 chest and symmetry of the figure will re- 
 main perfect. 
 
 The Nettle Rash. This disease takes 
 its name from its being attended by an 
 eruption similar to what is produced by 
 the stinging of nettles. In some cases it is 
 accompanied with large wheals or bumps, 
 which appear of a solid nature, without 
 any cavity or head, containing either wa- 
 ter or other fluid. Nothing is so effica- 
 cious in this disorder as half a teaspoon- 
 ful of magnesia, and the same quantity of 
 cream of tartar, mixed in half a teacupful 
 of milk, an hour before breakfast, and 
 repeated as required. 
 
 Sprain. To treat a sprain properly, 
 it should be kept perfectly at rest ; and, 
 if it be of the ankle or knee, the patient 
 must lie in bed, or on a sofa. Warmf 
 moist flannels should be repeatedly ap- 
 plied for some hours, and a bread-and- 
 water poultice on going to bed. These 
 should be continued for some days, and 
 no attempt made to use the joint. If the 
 pain be very severe, and it continues so 
 for the firift or following days, leeches 
 may be applied, and repeated if necessary. 
 Some persons are fond of putting on a 
 vinegar poultice at once ; but this is bet- 
 ter left alone till the tenderness has sub- 
 Bided, and there remains only a little pain 
 and stiffness in the joint. Then a vine- 
 
 gar poultice is a very good application, 
 as it produces a diversion of the inflam- 
 mation going on in the ligaments, by bring- 
 ing out a crop of pimples on the skin, at 
 a time when the pressure of rubbing in 
 any stimulating lotion cannot be borne. 
 
 When the pain has entirely ceased, the 
 joint must not be carelessly used ; and, 
 if it be the knee or ankle sprained, walk- 
 ing till the joints become weak and ache 
 must be most carefully avoided, as ir- 
 reparable mischief is thereby very often 
 caused. 
 
 A joint often swells a long time after 
 a sprain ; under which circumstances it is 
 best to bind it up with straps of soap- 
 plaster or a roller. 
 
 Excellent Medicine for Rheumatism. 
 Powdered gum guaiacum, eight grains ; 
 flour of sulphur, two drachms ; powder- 
 ed rhubarb, fifteen grains ; cream of tar 
 tar, one drachm ; powdered ginger, thirty 
 grains ; powdered nutmeg, eight grains. 
 
 To be made into an electuary, with two 
 ounces of clarified honey ; a teaspoonful 
 to be taken night and morning. 
 
 For Sprains and Bruises, especially 
 where the parts are discolored with blood 
 underneath the skin, and for rheumatic 
 swelling of the joints : Vinegar, one 
 pint ; distilled water, half a pint , recti- 
 fied spirits, one and a half pints j cam- 
 phor, two ounces. 
 
 Mix the vinegar and water, dissolve 
 the camphor in the spirit of wine, and 
 then put them all together. 
 
 For sprains, bruises, and other in- 
 juries, when the skin is not broken, car- 
 bonate of ammonia, two ounces ; vinegar, 
 two pints ; proof spirit, -three pints. 
 
 Mix the ammonia with the vinegar ; 
 when the effervescence ceases, add the 
 spirit. In inflammation of the joints of 
 some standing, this is mixed with linseed 
 meal, and applied as a poultice, twice 
 a-day. 
 Aperient Electuary.-- A very useful fain- 
 
FAMILY MEDICAL GUIDE. 
 
 561 
 
 ily medicine, particularly good for those 
 who are troubled with asthma or rheu- 
 matism. One ounce of senna powder, 
 half an ounce of flour of sulphur, two 
 drachms of powdered ginger, half a 
 drachm of saffron powder, four ounces of 
 honey. The size of a nutmeg to be taken 
 night and morning. 
 
 For Heartburn. Carbonate of mag- 
 nesia, ten grains ; carbonate of soda, five 
 grains ; ginger in powder, five grains ; 
 liquorice in powder, fifteen grains. Take 
 as a powder two or three times during 
 the day. 
 
 Zinc Ointment is made by rubbing well 
 together one ounce of oxide of zinc, and 
 six ounces oF hog's lard. This ointment 
 is useful for chilblains ; *!t is also com- 
 monly used for dressing the sores re- 
 maining after scalds and burns, to absorb 
 the great discharge which generally fol- 
 lows ; and it is a very good application to 
 cracked skin, from which a watery fluid 
 oozes and irritates the neighboring skin. 
 
 Leeches.' Leeches should be kept in a 
 cool place, in a stone '4>r glass jar, filled 
 with soft water, and tied over with coarse 
 muslin to prevent their escape, though it 
 allows them air. The water should be 
 changed only when it begins to get foul, 
 as too frequent disturbing destroys them. 
 The part on which they are to be ap- 
 plied should be carefully wiped with a 
 cool moist cloth, so as to leave it damp. 
 If they do not take readily, the part may 
 be moistened with a little sugar and wa- 
 ter, or milk. But if this does not an- 
 swer, the skin may be gently scratched 
 with a needle-point, till the blood comes, 
 and then they will take. If it be wished 
 to put the leeches as near as possible on 
 one spot, the best plan is to put them all 
 in the deep part of a pill-box, or in a 
 small wine-glass, which is to be turned 
 down on the part. If you wish them to 
 spread over a large surface, as upon one 
 of the limbs or the stomach, they must 
 
 be put on singly and by hand, which is 
 often very tedious and tiresome work. 
 They should then be held tightly by the 
 tail, wrapped in a piece of wet rag, so 
 that they may be less inconvenienced by 
 the heat of the hand ; and if the leech do 
 not soon fix, it is best to put it again into 
 the water to cool itself, and after apply- 
 ing others, to try it again. It is always 
 best to have more leeches than the num- 
 ber directed, in case some will not bite. 
 
 When the proper number have been 
 applied, they should be left quite alone, 
 or they are apt to unfix, and, wandering 
 about, are of no further use. When they 
 have sucked their fill, they generally drop 
 off, and should then be put in a plate 
 with a little salt, which quickly makes 
 them throw up the Wood ; and, as soon 
 as they have emptied themselves, they 
 should be put into plenty of fresh cold 
 water, so that they may get free from the 
 salt, for if left in it, or if too much be put 
 on them, they contract violently, and die 
 almost immediately. 
 
 After the leeches have come off, the 
 bleeding from the wounds is to be en- 
 couraged, by first quickly sponging off 
 whatever clotted blood there may be, and 
 then covering the part with a warm 
 bread-ajid-water poultice, which must be 
 changed every half hour, o long as it 
 inay be thought necessary to keep up the 
 bleeding. This is much better than leav- 
 ing the surface exposed, and mopping 
 with a warm sponge, which is very fa- 
 tiguing to the patient, besides exposing 
 him to the danger of taking cold. 
 
 If a leech-bite continue bleeding for 
 some hours, and the person, more espe- 
 cially if an infant, begins to be very faint, 
 and the countenance and lips pallid and 
 cold, like marble, no time must be lost in 
 stopping the bleeding. 
 
 This is done by pressure with the fin- 
 ger ; but, if that fail, by applying caustic, 
 or by running a moderate-sized darning 
 needle into the skin on < one. side of the 
 
562 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 bite, and bringing its point well out on 
 the other side. The whole wound is 
 thus lifted up, and a piece of silk or 
 strong 'thread, is then to be wound round 
 and round the bite, under the two ends 
 of the needle. This will raise it up like 
 a small spot, and generally stops the 
 bleeding very effectually. In four days 
 cut the silk and draw out the needle 
 carefully, and there the matter usually 
 ends. But in a peculiar state of consti- 
 tution, sometimes even after the removal 
 of the needle and thread, the bleeding 
 will continue. Nothing then remains, 
 but to touch the bottom of the wound 
 with a bit of thin iron wire heated 
 white-hot, which never fails to stop the 
 bleeding. Though this may seem a very 
 horrible proceeding, it is not very pain- 
 ful if the iron be white-hot, as it destroys 
 sensation in an instant ; but whether it 
 give pain or not is a matter of no con- 
 sequence, as it is the only sure mode of 
 saving the patient. 
 
 Pimples. A weak solution of sugar of 
 lead or sulphate of zinc may be used as 
 a wash ; if not effective, try camphorated 
 spirit, two drachms, corrosive sublimate 
 of mercury, one grain, rose water or al- 
 mond water half a pint, to be applied 
 night and morning. When there is great 
 irritability of the skin, a decoction of the 
 woody nightshade may be used instead 
 of the rose or almond-water. If pimples 
 arise from the condition of the blood, 
 then cooling purgatives must be taken. 
 A Plummer's pill at night, and a tea- 
 spoonful of decoction of Sarsaparilla 
 twice a day with salts and senna once a 
 week, are excellent medicines. 
 
 For Chicken-Pox. Let the patient 
 partake freely of water or cooling drinks, 
 as thirst is always an attendant on the 
 disease, and gentle laxatives should be 
 occasionally given, a teaspoonful of 
 lenitive electuary with a little milk of 
 sulphur in it, is all that is generally re- 
 
 quired ; but should febrile symptoms run 
 high, it may be advisable to take two or 
 three saline draughts during the day. 
 The following is a recipe for an excellent 
 saline, to be drunk while effervescing. 
 Twenty grains of carbonate of soda dis- 
 solved in a tumbler containing two table- 
 spoonfuls of water ; add two teaspoon- 
 fuls of lump-sugar rolled ; then put a 
 dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice into a 
 wine-glass (or fifteen grains of citric 
 acid dissolved in one table-spoonful of 
 water.) Pour it into the tumbler and 
 drink it while the effervescence is talking 
 place. 
 
 Croup. The cause of this disease is a 
 morbid secretion of thick mucus in 
 the trachea (.windpipe), adhering so 
 firmly to its sides as to impede respira- 
 tion. 
 
 A warm bath should immediately be 
 administered, and an emetic given as 
 soon as possible ; say, ten drops of anti- 
 monial wine for a child of three years of 
 age, and repeated every quarter of an 
 hour, until effectual, and according to the 
 age and strength tff the patient : a blister 
 should be applied across the throat, the 
 sufferer being made to inhale the vapor 
 of warm water with vinegar in' it, and 
 kept nearly upright in bed. A doctor 
 should be procured as soon as possible. 
 
 Children liable to this disease should 
 be warmly clad, wearing flannel next the 
 skin, and an emetic given upon the ear- 
 liest appearance of the attack. 
 
 Elder-flower Ointment is the mildest, 
 blandest, and most cooling ointment, as 
 the old women term it, which can be 
 used, and is very suitable for anointing 
 the face or neck, when sun-burnt. It is 
 made of fresh Elder-flowers stripped from 
 the stalks, two pounds of which are sim- 
 mered in an equal quantity of hog's lard 
 till they become crisp, after which the 
 ointment, whilst fluid, is strained through 
 a coarse sieve. 
 
FAMILY MEDICAL GUIDE. 
 
 563 
 
 Chilblains. The mode of prevention 
 of chilblains will be at once perceived, 
 viz. : To protect the parts most liable 
 to the attack (hands and feet) from 
 sudden alternations, either from cold to 
 heat, or from heat to cold. To keep the 
 constitution in such a healthy state, as 
 to make all parts possess such vitality as 
 to be able to resist slight alternations in 
 temperature. 
 
 Woollen stockings or socks, and warm, 
 boots and shoes, should be worn in the 
 street. Warm leather gloves are better 
 for the hands than woollen ones, through 
 which the dry frosty air is apt to pierce 
 and chap the hands. Tight wristbands, 
 tight garters, and boots that lace or but- 
 ton tightly about the ankles, must be 
 avoided. The most frequent cause of 
 chilblain is the warming of numbed 
 hands or feet at the fire. A good con- 
 stitutional remedy is small doses of tar- 
 trate of antimony wine, which constringe 
 the enlarged vessels. A drachm of the 
 wine may be added to half a pint of 
 water, in which a drachm of saltpetre has 
 been dissolved. Dose : for an adult one 
 or two table-spoonfuls every four hours ; 
 for a child, one or two teaspoonfuls three 
 times a day. It should not be given in 
 such doses as to produce vomiting. The 
 head, neck, and chest, should be washed 
 in cold water every morning, and brisk 
 exercise taken at regular hours. 
 
 Wash the hands in cold water every 
 three hours, and lather well with Wind- 
 sor soap. When the hands are nearly 
 dried with the towel, pour a little eau-de- 
 Cologne, or milk of roses, into the palm 
 of one hand, and rub it over the whole of 
 both. 
 
 A leech is a useful remedy to unload 
 the overcharged blood-vessels ; or the 
 part may be pricked with a needle, or 
 punctured with a lancet ; in such cases a 
 soft bread-and-water poultice should be 
 kept on during the night, applied warm, 
 so as to encourage the flow of blood. 
 
 Household Remedies for Chilblains. 
 The following are among the most ap- 
 proved of the domestic remedies, or pal- 
 liatives : 
 
 Take half an ounce of white wax, ox 
 marrow one ounce, hog's lard two ounces ; 
 melt these ingredients slowly over a fire 
 in a pipkin, and mix them well together ; 
 then strain through a linen cloth. Before 
 going to bed, spread the ointment upon 
 the parts affected, feet or hands, taking 
 care to wrap them well up. The appli- 
 cation should be made as soon as the 
 first attacks are felt. 
 
 Lemon juice rubbed on the inflamed 
 parts is said to stop the itching. A sliced 
 onion dipped in salt has the same effect, 
 but makes the feet tender. 
 
 Strong white mustard, pounded and 
 mixed with water to the consistence of 
 thick cream, rubbed on every night, let- 
 ting it dry on the chilblain, and washing 
 it off in the morning with rain water. 
 
 Encourage children to use the slapping 
 rope regularly during cold weather. This 
 is a capital prevention, together with re- 
 gularly washing and rubbing the feet. 
 
 Aperient for Children. Gingerbread 
 made with oatmeal instead of flour is a 
 very useful aperient for children. 
 
 Spring Aperients; for children, no- 
 thing is better than : 1. Brimstone and 
 molasses ; to each teacupful of this^ when 
 mixed, add a teaspoonful of cream of 
 tartar. As this sometimes produces 
 sickness, the following may be used : 
 2. Take of tartrate of soda one drachm 
 and a half, powdered jalap and powdered 
 rhubarb each fifteen grains, ginger two 
 grains. Mix. Dose for a child above 
 five years, one small teaspoonful ; above 
 ten years, a large teaspoonful ; above fif- 
 teen, two ; and for a person above twenty? 
 three teaspoonfuls, or the whole. 
 
 Aperient Pills. To some adults all 
 liquid medicines produce such nausea 
 that pills are the only form in which 
 
564 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 laxative medicines can be exhibited ; the 
 following is a usual formula : Take of 
 compound rhubarb pill, a drachm and 
 one scruple; of powdered ipecacuanha, 
 six grains, and of extract of hyoscyamus 
 one scruple. Mix and beat into a mass, 
 and divide into twenty-four pills. Take 
 one, or two, or if of a very costive habit, 
 three at bed-time. 
 
 Infants' Aperient. Take of rhubarb 
 five grains, magnesia three grains, white 
 sugar a scruple, manna five grains ; mix. 
 Dose, varying from a piece half the size 
 of a sweet-pea to a piece the size of an 
 ordinary pea. 
 
 For Wealc Eyes, Two grains acetate 
 of zinc, in two ounces of rosewater ; filter 
 the liquor carefully, and wash the eyes 
 night and morning. 
 
 A Simple Vapor Bath It is not ge- 
 nerally known that the settlers in the 
 remote parts of the "West make use 
 of the following simple mode of pro- 
 
 . curing a vapor bath : The patient is en- 
 veloped in blankets, which are closely 
 fastened about the neck, leaving the head 
 exposed. The patient sits on a chair 5 
 under the chair is placed a basin or deep 
 dish, withjiaif a pint of alcohol, whiskey 
 or gin which is ignited. The blankets 
 lap over each other, enveloping the 
 wholef and are closed to the floor by 
 other blankets, &c., as much as possible. 
 In a very few minutes the patient is in 
 
 "a profuse perspiration ; he is then imme- 
 diately put to bed between warm 
 blankets. 
 
 * Ear Ache. Sometimes ear-ache is con- 
 nected with chronic ulceration in the in- 
 ternal and external part of the ear, when 
 injections of warm water and soap are 
 advisable. In this case there is some- 
 times a constant foetid discharge, for 
 which the following mixture has been 
 recommended: Take of ox-gall, three 
 drachms j balsam of Peru, one drachm. 
 
 Mix. A drop or two put into the ear 
 with a little cotton. 
 
 Pains after Exertion. It is not gen- 
 erally known to pedestrians that the 
 pains in the knees and legs, which usually 
 follow after a long excursion, and which 
 continue with some persons for two or 
 three days after, may be prevented or 
 considerably lessened, by bathing the 
 parts affected in cold spring water, im- 
 mediately before going to bed. Care 
 should be taken if the feet be dipped 
 in the water, to afterwards dry them 
 thoroughly with a rough towel. 
 
 For a Cough. Quarter of a pound of 
 linseed ; quarter of a pound of raisins ; 
 two ounces of stick liquorice ; two quarts 
 of soft water, to be boiled until reduced 
 to half the quantity. When strained, 
 add a quarter of a pound of brown candy, 
 pounded ; one table-spoonful of good old 
 rum, one table-spoonful of lemon juice, 
 or vinegar. A cupful to be taken on 
 going to bed, and more frequently if re- 
 quired. To be warmed. 
 
 Nipple Liniment, by Dr. Sigerlundi. 
 Aqueous extract of opium, one grain ; 
 Fresh limewater, three drachms ; oil 
 sweet almonds, fresh and cold pressed, 
 three drachms. 
 
 Mix the whole, and preserve in a cov- 
 ered pot. The label should direct the 
 application of this liniment by means or 
 very fine lint, and that the nipples be 
 covered with a piece of skin spread with 
 wax, a hole being left open in the centre 
 to permit the free passage of the milk. 
 
 Pomade (for healing slight tumors.} 
 White pitch, pure, one pound ; resin, one 
 pound ; yellow wax, one pound ; gum 
 ammoniac, twelve ounces ; oil of hem- 
 lock, four ounces. 
 
 Spread upon sheepskin, and apply the 
 plaster to the sore. 
 
 Pomade Souveraine, ly Laforet (for 
 the Cure of Corns.)-T&ke one ounce black 
 
FAMILY MEDICAL GUIDE. 
 
 565 
 
 pitch, half an ounce galbanum, and one 
 scruple of sal ammoniac, dissolved in vi- 
 negar ; add one and a half drachm dia- 
 chylon. Take only sufficient to cover 
 the corn, and spread it upon a piece of 
 sheepskin. After some days remove the 
 plaster, and the corn comes with it. 
 
 Cera Fortif ant (for the Nails.) Oil of 
 lentise, half an ounce ; salt, half a drachm; 
 resin, one scruple j alum, one scruple ; 
 wax, one scruple. 
 
 English Court-Plaster. Stretch upon 
 a frame a piece of thin black silk, and 
 with a camel's-hair brush pass over it 
 three or more coats of isinglass, dissolv- 
 ed in boiling water. To give the silk an 
 agreeable odor, when applying the last 
 coat mix in a little compound tincture of 
 benzoin with the isinglass. ' 
 
 The color can be varied by taking silk 
 of any desired shade. The intervals 
 between the application of the coats 
 should be sufficiently long to permit a 
 thorough drying of each. 
 
 Collodion. This is a liquid adhesive 
 plaster, to be applied with the brush 
 upon sores and cuts. It is made by dis- 
 solving gun-cotton in rectified ether, 
 mixed with one-eighth its bulk of strong 
 alcohol. A slight addition of Venice 
 turpentine increases its adhesiveness. 
 
 Toothache Collodion. This is the plain 
 collodion, holding in solution one grain of 
 sulphate of morphia to every ounce of 
 liquid. It is almost a specific for the 
 toothache, which results from an exposed 
 nerve. 
 
 Blistering Collodion. The etherial ex- 
 tract of cantharides, dissolved in collo- 
 dion, forms a most convenient, active, and 
 clearly blistering liquid. If the blister 
 is opened at the side, the film of collo- 
 dion remains unbroken ; and, by thus 
 protecting the sore, obviates the neces- 
 sity of dressing it with ointment. 
 
 For Burns. Apply cotton wool dip- 
 ped in oil as soon as possible, and keep 
 36 
 
 it on till the fire is entirely out, which 
 will usually take from two days to a 
 week. 
 
 For a Cut. Wash off the blood in 
 cold water, and bind it up with a clean 
 cotton bandage ; if it inclines to bleed, 
 put on scraped lint, after bringing the 
 edges of the wound together as closely 
 as possible, and bind it rather tight. Or 
 use sticking-plaster. 
 
 When a Nail or Pin has been run into 
 the foot, instantly bind on a rind of salt 
 pork ; if the foot swell, bathe it in a 
 strong decoction of wormwood, then bind 
 on another rind of pork, and keep quiet 
 till the wound is well. The lockjaw is 
 often caused by such wounds, if neglected. 
 
 For a Bruise or Sprain. Bathe the 
 part in cold water, till you can get ready 
 a decoction of wormwood. This is one of 
 the best remedies for sprains and bruises. 
 When the wormwood is fresh gathered, 
 pound the leaves and wet them either 
 with water or vinegar, and bind them on 
 the bruise ; when the herb is dry, put it 
 into cold water, and let it boil a short 
 time, then bathe the bruise and bind on 
 the herb. 
 
 Always keep cotton wool, scraped lint 
 and wormwood on hand. 
 
 The Ear-ache is usually caused by a 
 sudden cold. Steam the head over hot 
 herbs, bathe the feet, and put into the ear 
 cotton wool wet with sweet oil and par- 
 egoric. 
 
 Prescription for Camphor CaTce. 
 Scrape into an earthen vessel one ounce 
 and a quarter of spermaceti and one 
 ounce and a half of white wax ; add six 
 drachms of powdered camphor, and four 
 table -spoonfuls of best olive oil. Let it 
 stand near the fire until dissolved, stir- 
 ring it well. 
 
 Plaster for Pain in Side or Cough to 
 he applied between the shoulders. One 
 ounce burgundy pitch, one ounce bees- 
 j one ounce and a half of resin, one 
 
566 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 ounce of gum camphor dissolved in two 
 teaspoonfuls of brandy over a slow fire. 
 To be kept in tin boxes, and when used 
 spread on kid. 
 
 The Cure of Intemperate Habits. A 
 notion prevails that a person addicted 
 to alcohol stimulants cannot at once leave 
 them off without danger of illness, or 
 great and^long-continued suffering. This 
 is an error. A cup of tea or coffee will 
 supply the needed tonic when a sense of 
 exhaustion is felt, and we have the au- 
 thority of an emiment physician for stat- 
 ing that no constitutional injury will be 
 suffered from immediate and total absti- 
 nence. The uncomfortable feelings will 
 subside in forty eight-hours, and will be 
 entirely over in a fortnight. Any man 
 who has firm resolution can break him- 
 self at once of the fatal habit of drinking. 
 
 Hair Dressing. There are many per- 
 sons whose hair is naturally dry and 
 crisp, and in most families there is a 
 want of some innocent and agreeable 
 wash or dressing which may be used 
 moderately and judiciously. The mix- 
 ture which may be regarded as the most 
 agreeable, cleanly, and safe is composed 
 of cologne spirit and pure castor-oil. 
 The following is a good formula : 
 
 Pure, fresh castor-oil, two ounces. Co- 
 logne spirit (ninety-five per cent), six- 
 teen ounces. 
 
 The oil is freely dissolved in the spirit, 
 and the solution is clear and beautiful. 
 It may be perfumed in any way to suit 
 the fancy of the purchaser. The oil of 
 the castor-bean has for many years been 
 employed to dress the hair, both among 
 the savage and civilized nations ; and 
 it possesses properties which admirably 
 adapt it to this use. It does not rapidly 
 dry ; and no gummy, offensive residuum 
 remains after taking on the chemical 
 
 changes which occur in all oils upon ex- 
 posure to light and air. It is best dif- 
 fused by the agency of strong spirit, in 
 which it dissolves. The alcohol or spirit 
 rapidly evaporates, and does not in the 
 slightest degree injure the texture of 
 the hair. This preparation, for dressing 
 the hair of children or ladies, will meet 
 nearly or quite all requirements. A 
 cheap and very good dressing is made 
 by dissolving four ounces of perfectly 
 pure, dense glycerine in twelve ounces 
 of rose-water. Glycerine evaporates on- 
 ly at high temperatures ; and therefore, 
 under its influence, the hair is retained 
 in a moist condition for a long time. As 
 a class, the vegetable oils are better for 
 the hair than animal oils. They do not 
 become rancid and offensive so readily, 
 and they are subject to different and less 
 objectionable chemical changes. Olive- 
 oil and that derived from the cocoanut 
 have been largely employed, but they 
 are inferior in every respect to that from 
 the castor-bean. 
 
 It is doubtful if any mixture or sub- 
 stance has ever been devised which will 
 restore hair to a bald head. A great 
 many washes and embrocations are man- 
 ufactured, all of which usually fail to 
 meet the end desired. The falling of 
 the hair is the result of diseased action 
 in the hair follicles, or to a morbid con- 
 dition of the entire scalp. Still, mix- 
 tures containing ammonia, vinegar, soap, 
 and vesicating tinctures, are sometimes 
 thought to prove beneficial. The fall of 
 the hair will usually cease from natural 
 causes in a short time, the germinal ves- 
 sels taking on healthy action spontane- 
 ously. The frequent washing of the head 
 in tepid or cold water, and friction with 
 a brush or coarse towel, is to be com- 
 mended. 
 
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS 
 
 To take Stains out of Linen. For acid 
 stains, wet the part, and lay on it salt 
 of wormwood ; then rub it, and hold the 
 part over a lighted match, for the sul- 
 phurous gas ; or, tie up pearlash in the 
 stained part ; scrape soap into cold water, 
 for a lather, and boil the linen till the 
 stain disappear. 
 
 Stains of wine or fruit that have been 
 long in the linen may be removed by 
 rubbing the part on each side with yellow 
 soap, then laying on a mixture of thick 
 starch in cold water, rubbing it well in, 
 and exposing the linen to the sun and 
 air till the stain comes out. The process 
 may be renewed, and, when dry, sprinkle 
 the part with water. Stains may be 
 taken out by dipping the linen in sour 
 buttermilk and drying in a hot sun. 
 Then wash in cold water and dry it 
 several times a day. 
 
 A certain way of extracting fruit or 
 wine stains from table linen is to tie up 
 some cream of tartar in the stained part 
 (so as to form a sort of bag), and then to 
 put the linen into a lather of soap and 
 cold water, and boil it awhile. Then 
 transfer it wet to lukewarm suds, wash 
 and rinse it well, and dry and iron it. 
 The stains will disappear during the pro- 
 cess. Another way is to mix, in equal 
 quantities, soft soap, slaked lime, and 
 pearl-ash. Rub the stain with this pre- 
 paration, and expose the linen to the sun 
 with the mixture plastered on it. If 
 
 necessary, repeat the application. As 
 soon as the stain has disappeared, wash 
 out the linen immediately, as it will be 
 injured if the mixture is left in it. 
 
 Iron moulds may be wet, laid on a hot 
 water plate, and a little salt of lemon 
 applied. "Wet and renew the process. 
 Be careful not to have the application 
 too strong. Oxalic acid will effectually 
 remove the stains. Mildew may be taken 
 out by mixing soft soap with powdered 
 starch, half as much salt, and the juice 
 of a lemon ; lay it on both sides of the 
 part, and leave it on the grass day and 
 night. To prevent flannels from shrink- 
 ing or losing their color, put them into a 
 pail the first time of washing, and pour 
 boiling water on them, letting them lie 
 till cold. 
 
 Remove ink spots by soaking the part 
 in milk immediately j then wash out in 
 cold water without soap. 
 
 To destroy Cricftets.Put Scotch snuff 
 upon their holes. Cockroaches may be 
 banished by red wafers. Paint is destruc- 
 tive to all insects, and so is lime. 
 
 Polish for Tables. One pint of linseed 
 oil, half a pint of turpentine, two ounces 
 of beeswax, sixpence worth of white 
 rosin. Boil the mixture in a saucepan, 
 and put it in a bottle for use. 
 
 Varnish for Mahogany. One pint of 
 linseed oil, a wine glass of spirits of tur- 
 pentine ; simmer it slowly till near coming 
 
568 
 
 THE PEACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 to a boil. Take all the stains out of the 
 mahogany, and clean it perfectly. When 
 dry brush it with a feather dipped in the 
 bottled mixture. Rub it some time with 
 soft linen ; then take a clean housecloth 
 and rub off the oil, continue rubbing till 
 the table would not soil a cambric hand- 
 kerchief. 
 
 Instead of covering your glasses and 
 pictures with muslin, cover the frames 
 only with cheap yellow cambric, neatly 
 put on, and as near the color of the gilt 
 as possible. This leaves the glasses 
 open, and is a barrier to dust and flies. 
 When faded, it can be re-colored with 
 saffron tea. 
 
 When mattresses become hard and 
 bunchy, rip them, take out the hair, pull 
 it thoroughly, let it lie a day or two to 
 air, wash the tick, lay in the hair as 
 light and even as possible, and stitch it 
 down as before. The mattress will be 
 as good as new. 
 
 Britannia ware should be first rubbed 
 gently with a woollen cloth and sweet oil, 
 then washed in warm suds and rubbed 
 with soft leather and whiting. Thus 
 treated, it will retain its beauty to the 
 last. 
 
 To clean Sponges. When very foul 
 wash them in diluted tartaric acid, rinsing 
 them afterwards in water ; it will make 
 them very soft and white. Be careful to 
 dilute the acid well, as it is very corrosive 
 and therefore should be weak. 
 
 For outside Paint. Put ten gallons 
 of raw linseed oil in a kettle over a slow 
 fire, and let it simmer gently. Add four 
 ounces sugar of lead. Stir up, and when 
 cold, it is fit to use as boiled oil or var- 
 nish. 
 
 Take of yellow ochre fifteen pounds, 
 of white lead ten pounds, of burnt umber 
 one pound, of Indian red two pounds. 
 This will make a beautiful chocolate 
 color. Add to it half a pound of dry 
 ground litharge. 
 
 Stir it up well, and when well stirred 
 add oil according to judgment about 
 two gallons. 
 
 Green tea is good to restore rusty 
 silk. It should be boiled in iron a cup- 
 ful to three quarts. The silk should not 
 be wrung, but ironed damp. 
 
 Lime sifted through coarse muslin, and 
 stirred pretty thick with white of egg, 
 makes a strong cement for glass or china. 
 Plaster of Paris, pulverized, is still bet- 
 ter, and should be stirred by the spoonful 
 as it is wanted. 
 
 The best way to clean gold is to wash 
 it in warm suds made of delicate soap, 
 with ten or fifteen drops sal volatile in 
 it. This makes jewelry very brilliant. 
 
 Rye paste is more adhesive than anj 
 other, and is much improved by adding 
 a little pounded alum while it is boiling. 
 
 Straw matting should be washed in 
 salt and water, and dried with a coarse 
 towel. The salt prevents their turning 
 yellow. 
 
 Skimmed milk and water, with a bit 
 of glue in it, heated scalding hot, is ex- 
 cellent to restore old, rusty, black Italian 
 crape. If clapped and pulled dry, it will 
 look as well as new. 
 
 Washleather gloves should be washed 
 in clean tepid suds. 
 
 If you are troubled to get soft water 
 for washing, fill a tub or barrel half 
 full of wood ashes, and fill it with water 
 to make lye. A gallon of strong lye put 
 into a great kettle of hard water will 
 make it soft as rain water. Pearlash 
 or potash is used, but costs something, 
 and is apt to injure the texture of the 
 cloth. 
 
 In May and June, the little millers 
 that lay moth eggs, begin to appear. 
 Brush your woollens and beat out your 
 furs, and pack them away in a dark 
 place covered with linen, pepper, red 
 cedar chips, tobacco, and best of all 
 
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 
 
 569 
 
 camphor, or any strong spicy smell, will 
 keep moths out of your chests and 
 drawers. Sew the things tightly up in 
 linen, leaving no room for the insect to 
 enter. 
 
 Save phials and bottles ; apothecaries 
 and grocers will give something for 
 them. 
 
 Woollens should be washed in very hot 
 suds, and not rinsed; lukewarm water 
 shrinks them. Silk should be washed in 
 water almost cold; hot water turns it 
 yellow. It may be washed in suds made 
 of white soap ; but no soap should be put 
 on it. It will not do to smooth all silk 
 with a hot iron ; either rub it dry with a 
 soft cloth, or put it between towels, and 
 press it with weights. 
 
 To take spots out of Cloth. Sal am- 
 moniac, one ounce ; rectified spirit, two 
 wine-glasses full ; aqua distillata. one and 
 a half pints. Apply with a sponge. 
 
 . fiecipe for Ink, Half a pint of good 
 stale beer, two ounces of galls, half an 
 ounce of copperas, half an ounce of gum 
 arabic pulverized, a quarter of an ounce 
 of rock alum. This is to be kept in a 
 pitcher close to the fire for a week, fre- 
 quently stirred with a stick, and slightly 
 covered with a large cork. The ink will 
 never mould nor lose its color or sub- 
 stance. It will bear half as much beer 
 for future use. 
 with beer. 
 
 To take an impression from a Writing. 
 Add a little sugar to the ink you write 
 with, then lay a sheet of thin unsized 
 paper, damped with a sponge, upon the 
 writing, and pass over it, very lightly, 
 a flat smoothing-iron, moderately heated. 
 
 To sweeten Casks. When musty it is 
 best to unhead large casks, and white- 
 wash them with quicklime. Or they 
 may be matched with sulphur mixed with 
 a little nitrate of potash, and afterwards 
 frelL washed. Small casks may be 
 
 If it thickens, thin it 
 
 sweetened by washing them first with 
 sulphuric acid, and then with clean 
 water. 
 
 To preserve Brass Ornaments. Beat 
 sal ammoniac into a fine powder, then 
 moisten it with soft water, rubbing it on 
 the ornaments, which must be heated over 
 charcoal, and rubbed dry with bran and 
 whiting. 
 
 To color Harness. The color of har- 
 ness that has become rusty or brown by 
 wear may be restored to a fine black, 
 after the dirt has been sponged off. Boil 
 logwood chips in three quarts of soft 
 water, to which add three ounces of nut- 
 galls finely powdered, and one ounce of 
 alum ; simmer the whole together for 
 half an hour, and it will be fit for use. 
 A harness blacking is thus made : Melt 
 two ounces of mutton suet with six 
 ounces of beeswax, then add one ounce of 
 indigo, finely powdered, six ounces of 
 sugar-candy, dissolved in water, and two 
 ounces of soft soap ; mix, and simmer 
 over the fire, when add a gill of turpen- 
 tine. Lay it on with a sponge, and then 
 polish. 
 
 To preserve Polished Irons from Rust. 
 Polished iron-work may be preserved 
 from rust by a mixture of copal varnish 
 with as much olive oil as will give it a 
 degree of greasiness, adding as much spirit 
 of turpentine as of varnish. The cast-iron 
 work is best preserved by rubbing it 
 with black-lead. But where rust has be- 
 gun to make its appearance on grates or 
 fire-irons, apply tripoli with half its quan- 
 tity of sulphur, intimately mingled on a 
 marble slab, and laid on with a piece of 
 soft leather : or emery and oil may be ap- 
 plied with excellent effect. 
 
 To clean Kid Gloves. First see that 
 your hands are clean, then put on the 
 gloves and wash them, as though you 
 were washing your hands, in a basin of 
 spirits of turpentine, until quite clean ; 
 
5TO 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 then hang them up in a warm place, or 
 where there is a good current of air, 
 which will cany off all the smell of the 
 turpentine. This method was brought 
 from Paris, and thousands of pounds 
 have been made by it. 
 
 To clean German Silver. After using, 
 it should be placed immediately in hot 
 water, washed well, and wiped dry with 
 a soft cloth. Once a week let it be wash- 
 ed in soap-suds, and then cleaned with 
 fine whiting, or prepared chalk, mixed 
 with whiskey or spirits of wine, so as to 
 make a paste, which should afterwards be 
 brushed off. Should this metal become 
 discolored, or spotted by vinegar or other 
 acids, wash it first, and then clean it 
 with sweet oil and powdered rotten- 
 stone. 
 
 Blacking. The best blacking for pre- 
 serving the leather of boots and shoes, 
 and which will make it perfectly water- 
 tight, is the following : Take of yellow 
 wax one ounce and a half, of mutton suet 
 four ounces and a half, horse turpentine 
 half an ounce, ivory black three ounces ; 
 melt first the wax, to which add the 
 suet, and afterwards the horse turpen- 
 tine ; when the whole is melted remove it 
 from the fire ; mix in gradually the ivory 
 black, constantly stirring till it is cold. 
 This composition is sometimes run into 
 moulds, and sold under the name of 
 blacking balls ; when it is used it may be 
 laid or rubbed upon a brush which should 
 be warmed before the fire ; it is also the 
 best blacking for every kind of harness ; 
 when it is wanted in a large quantity, it 
 may be gently melted in a ladle or pot 
 over a chafing-dish with live coals. 
 
 To preserve Picture Frames. Varnish 
 the frames with water in which onions 
 have been boiled. 
 
 To clean a Carpet. Beat the carpet 
 free from dust, and lay it down. To two 
 gallons of water put two ox-galls. Rub 
 it on the carpet with a hand scrubbing- 
 brush. 
 
 To clean Silk. Pare and slice thin 
 three washed potatoes. Pour on them 
 half a pint of boiling water, and let it 
 stand till cold. Strain the water, and 
 add an equal quantity of alcohol. Sponge 
 the silk on the right side, and when half 
 dry, iron it on the wrong side. The 
 lightest colored silk may be cleaned and 
 brightened by this process ; also cloth, 
 velvet, or crape. To iron velvet lay a 
 damp towel over the bottom of a hot 
 smoothing iron ; put on it the wrong side 
 of the velvet, and pass a whisk brush 
 over the pile till the surface is free from 
 wrinkles. 
 
 To renew scorched or browned Linen. 
 This is an accident attributable entirely 
 to the ignorance of the laundress, in not 
 knowing how to regulate the heat of her 
 irons. To remedy this: Add to a 
 quart of vinegar the juice of half a dozen 
 large onions, about an ounce of soap rasp- 
 ed down, a quarter of a pound of fullers' 
 earth, one ounce of lime, and one ounce 
 of pearlash, or any other strong alkali. 
 Boil the whole until it is pretty thick, 
 and lay some of it on the scorched part, 
 suffering it to dry. Repeat this process 
 for one or two washings. 
 
 To extract grease spots from Silks, Mus~ 
 lins, &c. Scrape French chalk, put it on 
 the grease spot, and hold it near the fire, 
 or over a warm iron or water-plate, filled 
 with boiling water. The grease will melt, 
 and the French chalk absorb it , brush or 
 rub it off; repeat if necessary. Camphene 
 will remove grease also. 
 
 To clean Marble. Take two parts of 
 common soda, one part of pumice-stone, 
 and one part of finely powdered chalk ; 
 sift it through a fine sieve, and mix it 
 with water ; then rub it well all over the 
 marble, and the stains will be removed ; 
 then wash the marble over with soap and 
 water, and it will be as clean as it was at 
 first. 
 
 To take oil and grease out of Boards, 
 Marble, &c. Make a paste with fullers' 
 
MISCELLANEOUS EECEIPTS. 
 
 571 
 
 earth and hot water ; cover the spots 
 therewith, let it dry on, and the next day 
 scour it off with soft or yellow soap. 
 
 Or : Make a paste with soft soap, 
 fullers' earth, and a little pearlash, and 
 use it as above. 
 
 To clean Buckskin Gloves. First wash 
 in warm water and soap, until the dirt is 
 removed ; then pull them out into their 
 proper shape, or stretch them on wooden 
 hands. Mix a little pipe-clay, or pipe- 
 clay and yellow ochre, according to the 
 color required, with vinegar or beer. 
 Rub this over the outside of the gloves, 
 and let them dry gradually in the shade ; 
 or if in the house, not too near the fire. 
 When about half dry, rub them well, and 
 stretch them on the hand or wooden 
 mould ; after they are rubbed and dried, 
 brush them with a soft brush to get out 
 the dust. Finally, iron the gloves with 
 a smoothing iron moderately heated, 
 taking the precaution to place a cloth or 
 piece of paper over them, and they will 
 look like new. 
 
 To make an efficacious and durable 
 Paste. Good and durable paste may be 
 made with flour in the usual way, but 
 rather thick, with a proportion of brown 
 sugar and a small quantity of corrosive 
 sublimate. A drop or two of the essen- 
 tial oil of lavender, peppermint, anise, or 
 bergamot, is a complete security against 
 moulding. Paste made in this manner, 
 if kept in a close covered pot, may be pre- 
 served in a state fit for use at all times. 
 
 To make Blue Ink. Dissolve a small 
 quantity of indigo in a little oil of vitriol, 
 and add a sufficient quantity of water, in 
 which is dissolved some gum arabic. 
 
 To remove Ink-stains from Printed 
 Books, &c. Procure a little oxalic acid, 
 which dissolve in a small quantity of 
 warm water, then slightly wet the stain 
 with it, when it will disappear, leaving 
 the text uninjured. 
 
 To paint Silver Flowers on Silk. 
 
 Paint flowers, leaves, &c., on white silk, 
 with a camel's -hair pencil dipped in a so- 
 lution of nitrate of silver : immerse this 
 while wet in a jar of sulphuric acid gas, 
 by burning sulphur in a jar of atmos- 
 pheric air. The drawing will have a beau- 
 tiful silvery appearance. 
 
 To remove Ink or Fruit Stains from 
 the Fingers. Cream of tartar, half an 
 ounce ; powdered salt of sorrel, half an 
 ounce mix. This is what is sold for 
 salt of lemons. 
 
 To clean Tin Covers. Boil some 
 rottenstone and a small quantity of pre- 
 pared whiting in some sweet oil for two 
 hours, till it acquires the consistency of 
 cream. 
 
 To perfume Linen. Rose-leaves dried 
 in the shade, or at about four feet from a 
 stove, one pound ; cloves, caraway-seeds, 
 and allspice, of each one ounce j pound in 
 a mortar, or grind in a mill ; dried salt, 
 a quarter of a pound ; mix all these to- 
 gether, and put the compound into little 
 
 To prevent Colored Things from 
 Running. Boil a quarter of a pound of 
 soap till nearly dissolved, then add a 
 small piece of alum and boil with it. 
 Wash the things in this lather, but do 
 not soap them. If they require a second 
 water, put alum to that also as well as to 
 the rinsing and blue water. This will 
 preserve them. 
 
 To preserve Pencil Marks. If you 
 have anything drawn or written with 
 a lead pencil that you wish to pre- 
 serve from rubbing out, dip the paper 
 into a dish of skimmed milk. Then dry 
 it, and iron it quickly on the wrong side. 
 
 To dry Plants for Preservation. The 
 following improved method of drying 
 plants is the result of much experience : 
 The plants you wish to preserve should 
 be gathered when the weather is dry, 
 and after placing the ends in water, let 
 them remain in a cool place till the next 
 
572 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 day. When about to be submitted t< 
 the process of drying, place each plan 
 between several sheets of blotting-paper 
 and iron it with a large smooth heate: 
 pretty strongly warmed, till all the moist 
 ure is dissipated. Colors may thus be 
 fixed, which otherwise become pale, or 
 nearly white. 
 
 To wash WJiite Silk Lace or Blonde. 
 Take a black bottle covered with clean 
 linen or muslin, and wind the blonde 
 round it, (securing the ends with a 
 needle or thread,) not leaving the edge 
 outward, but covering it as you proceed. 
 Set the bottle upright in a strong cold 
 lather of white soap and soft water, and 
 place it in the sun, having gently rubbed 
 the suds up and down on the lace. Keep 
 it in the sun every day for a week, 
 changing the lather daily, and alwaj^s 
 rubbing it slightly when you renew the 
 suds. At the end of the week, take the 
 blonde off the bottle, and (without rins- 
 ing) pin it backward and forward on a 
 large pillow. The pins should be of the 
 smallest size. When quite dry, take it 
 off, but do not starch, iron, or press it. 
 Lay it in long loose folds, and put it away 
 in a pasteboard box. Thread lace may 
 be washed in the same manner. 
 
 To clean Silver. Dissolve two tea- 
 spoonfuls of powdered alum in a quart of 
 moderately strong lye, stir in a gill of soft 
 soap, and remove the scum or dross that 
 may rise to the surface. After washing 
 the silver in hot water, take a sponge and 
 cover every article with this mixture. 
 Let the things rest about a quarter of an 
 hour, frequently turning them. Next 
 wash them off in warm soap-suds, and 
 wipe them dry with a soft cloth. After- 
 wards brighten them with rouge pow- 
 der, or with whiting and spirits of wine. 
 
 Preserving the Color of Dresses. 
 The colors of merinos, mousseline-de- 
 laines, ginghams, chintzes, printed lawns, 
 &c., may be preserved by using water 
 
 that is only milk- warm ; making a lather 
 with white soap, Before you put in the 
 dress, instead of rubbing it on the ma- 
 terial ; and stirring into a first and sec- 
 ond tub of water a large tablespoonful 
 of ox-gall, No colored articles should 
 be allowed to remain long in the water. 
 They must be washed fast, and then 
 rinsed through cold waters. Into each 
 rinsing water stir a teaspoonful of vine- 
 gar, which will help to brighten the col- 
 ors ; and after rinsing, hang them out 
 immediately. If they cannot be conve- 
 niently ironed at once, let them hang till 
 they are quite dry ; and then damp and 
 fold them on the following day, a quar- 
 ter of an hour before ironing. We need 
 scarcely say that no colored articles 
 should ever be boiled or scalded. 
 
 To wash Ribbons, Silk HandlcercJiiefs, 
 &c. A good satin ribbon may be made 
 to look very well by washing it first in 
 cold water, to which add a few drops of 
 spirits of wine ; then in a lather of white 
 soap, and lukewarm water; afterwards 
 rinse it in cold water, pull it even, and 
 dry it gradually. When dry, stretch out 
 the ribbon, and sponge it with a weak so- 
 lution of isinglass or rice-water, to restore 
 the stiffness and gloss. To iron the rib- 
 bon, lay it within a sheet of clean smooth 
 etter paper (the paper being both under 
 and over it), and press it with a heated 
 ron moved quickly. If the color is 
 ilac, add a little dissolved pearlash to 
 <he rinsing water. If green, a little vine- 
 gar. If pink, or blue, a few drops of oil 
 >f vitriol. If yellow, a little tincture of 
 affron. Other colors may be set by stir- 
 ring a teaspoonful of ox-gall into the 
 irst water. If white, a saltspoonful of 
 ream of tartar mixed with the soap- 
 uds. Unfigured silk handkerchiefs and 
 ca,rfs may be washed and ironed in the 
 above manner. The proportion of spirits 
 >f wine is about a tablespoonful to a 
 gallon of water. 
 To clean White or Colored Kid Gloves. 
 
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 
 
 573 
 
 Put the glove on your hand, then take 
 a small piece of flannel, dip it in cam- 
 phene, and well but gently rub it over the 
 glove, taking care not to make it too wet. 
 When the dirt is removed, dip the flannel 
 (or another piece if that is become dirty) 
 into pipe-clay and rub it over the glove ; 
 take it off, and hang it up in a room to dry, 
 and in a day or two very little smelj will 
 remain ; and if done carefully they will be 
 almost as good as new. In colored ones, 
 if yellow, use gamboge after the pipe- 
 clay, and for other colors match it in dry 
 paint. 
 
 Sympathetic Inks. These are prepara- 
 tions used for writing on paper, the marks 
 of which are invisible until acted upon by 
 some agent. They are frequently em- 
 ployed in secret or playful correspond- 
 ence. By heating the paper until it is 
 nearly scorched, they may be rendered 
 visible. 
 
 Sulphate of copper and sal ammoniac 
 equal parts, dissolved in water or onion 
 juice, writes colorless, but turns yellow 
 when heated. 
 
 A weak infusion of galls turns black 
 when moistened with weak copperas wa- 
 ter. 
 
 The diluted solutions of nitrate of sil- 
 ver and terchloride of gold darken when 
 exposed to the sunlight. 
 
 Aquafortis, spirits of salts, oil of vitriol, 
 common salt, or salpetre, dissolved in a 
 large quantity of water, turn yellow or 
 brown when heated. 
 
 Solution of nitromuriate of cobalt turns 
 green when heated, and disappears again 
 on cooling. 
 
 Solution of acetate of cobalt, to which 
 a little nitre has been added, becomes 
 i<rt>c~colored when heated, and disappears 
 when cooling. 
 
 To make a common Knife-Board. Cov- 
 er with thick buff leather, on which are 
 put emery one part, crocus martis three 
 parts, in very fine powder, mixed into a 
 
 thick paste, with a little lard or sweet oil) 
 and spread on the leather to the thick- 
 ness of a shilling. It gives a far superior 
 edge and polish to knives, and will not 
 wear the knife near so much as the com- 
 mon method of using brick-dust on a 
 board. 
 
 Harness-makers' /<?. Take one drachm 
 of indigo, a quarter of an ounce of isin- 
 glass, half an ounce of soap, four ounces of 
 glue, one pennyworth of logwood rasp- 
 ings, and one quart of vinegar ; boil the 
 whole together over a slow fire till re- 
 duced to one pint. A small quantity is 
 then to be taken up on a clean sponge, 
 and thinly applied to harness, boots, &c. 
 taking care that they are previously 
 well cleaned. 
 
 To restore the Color of Mahogany. 
 Wash well with soap and water, and then 
 polish daily with the following oil : 
 Take half an ounce of alkanet root, cut 
 small, and add to a pint of linseed oil ; 
 when this has stood for a week, add half 
 an ounce of powdered gum arabic, and an 
 ounce of shellac varnish ; let these stand 
 in a bottle by the fire for a week, then 
 strain. Rub well in. 
 
 Cement for the MoutJis of Corked 
 Bottles. Melt together a quarter of a 
 pound of sealing wax, the same quantity 
 of rosin, a couple of ounces of beeswax. 
 When it froths, stir it with a tallow 
 candle. As soon as it melts, dip the 
 mouths of the corked bottles into it. This 
 is an excellent thing to exclude the air 
 from such things as are injured by being 
 exposed to it. 
 
 To take Impressions of Leaves. A 
 very beautiful and cheap way of taking 
 impressions of leaves is to take a small 
 quantity of bichromate of potash, (say 
 a teaspoonful,) which may be had at 
 any druggist's ; dissolve it in a saucer 
 full of water, then pass the pieces of pa- 
 per on which the impressions are to be 
 taken through the solution, and while 
 
574 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 wet, press the leaves, &c., lightly upon 
 it. and expose it to the sun, which should 
 be shining powerfully. "When perfectly 
 dry, remove the leaves, and a perfect 
 fac-simile will remain in a light lemon 
 shade, while the rest of the paper will be 
 of a dark brown tint. Bichrome, as it is 
 generally term, is in dark yellow crystals, 
 which should be powdered previous to 
 using it. 
 
 To wash a White Lace Veil Put the 
 veil into a strong lather of white soap, 
 and very clear water, and let it simmer 
 slowly for a quarter of an hour. Take 
 it out and squeeze but not rub it. Rinse 
 it in two cold waters, with a drop or two 
 of liquid blue in the last. Have ready 
 some very clear and weak gum arabic 
 water, or some thin starch, or rice-water. 
 Pass the veil through it, and clear it by 
 clapping. Then stretch it out even, and 
 pin it to dry on a linen cloth, making the 
 edge as straight as possible, opening out 
 all the scallops, and fastening each with 
 pins. When dry, lay a piece of thin 
 muslin smoothly over it, and iron it on 
 the wrong side. 
 
 To clean Freestone. Wash the hearth 
 with soap, and wipe it with a wet cloth. 
 Or rub it over with a little freestone 
 powder, after washing the hearth in hot 
 water. Brush off the powder when 
 dry. 
 
 To 'black a Brick Hearth. Mix some 
 black lead with soft soap and a little 
 water, and boil it then lay it on with a 
 brush. Or mix the lead with water 
 only. 
 
 To clean Brass. Rub it over with a 
 bit of flannel dipped in sweet oil then 
 rub it hard with finely powdered rotten- 
 stone then rub it with a soft linen cloth 
 and polish with a bit of wash leather. 
 
 Rub creaking hinges with soft soap. 
 
 Common Tins. Throw some wood- 
 ashes into a wash-kettle, pour on water 
 
 till it is two-thirds full, and then let it 
 boil. Or make a strong lye. Dip in tho 
 tins when it is boiling hot ; and, if they 
 are very dirty, leave them in about ten 
 minutes. Take them out, and cover them 
 with a mixture of soft soap and the very 
 finest sand. This must be rubbed on 
 with a coarse tow-cloth. Then rinse 
 them-in a tub of cold water, and set them 
 in the sun to drain and dry. When dry, 
 finish by rubbing them well with a clean 
 woollen cloth or flannel. They will look 
 very nice and bright. You may clean 
 pewter in the same manner. 
 
 To clean Alabaster. Make a mixture, 
 in the proportion of two ounces of aqua- 
 fortis to a pint of cold water, which ought 
 to be filtered. Dip a clean brush in this 
 liquid, and wash the alabaster with it for 
 five minutes or more. There should be 
 a brush small enough to go in the most 
 minute parts. Then rinse it with cold 
 clear water, and set in the sun for two 
 or three hours to dry. The aquafortis 
 will make the alabaster very white. Soap 
 should never be used. 
 
 Cleaning Japanned Waiters, Urns, &c. 
 Rub on with a sponge a little white 
 soap and some lukewarm water, and 
 wash the waiter or urn quite clean. 
 Never use hot water, as it will cause the 
 japan to scale off. Having wiped it dry, 
 sprinkle a little flour over it ; let it rest 
 awhile, and then rub it with a soft dry 
 cloth, and finish with a silk handkerchief. 
 If there are white heat marks on the 
 waiters, they will be difficult to remove. 
 But you may try rubbing them with a 
 flannel dipped in sweet oil, and afterwards 
 in spirits of wine. Waiters and other 
 articles of papier mache should be washed 
 with a sponge and cold water, without 
 soap, dredged with flour while damp; 
 and after a while wiped off, and then 
 polished with a silk handkerchief. 
 
 Cheap Contrivance for Filtering. A 
 
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 
 
 575 
 
 very cheap and good contrivance for fil- 
 tering is to take a large garden flower- 
 pot, and lay in the bottom a piece of 
 sponge, so as to cover the whole. Vpon 
 this put a few smooth clean pebbles, to 
 keep the sponge in its place, and fill up 
 the pot, to within two or three inches of 
 the brim, with a mixture of one part of 
 powdered charcoal to two parts of fine 
 sharp sand. Then cover the top of the 
 pot with a piece of clean white flannel, 
 tied tightly round the rim with a twine, 
 but so as to sink or sway down in the 
 centre. Set the flower-pot in a pan or 
 tub, and pour the water into the flannel, 
 letting it filter through the charcoal, &c. f 
 and, by the time it has passed through 
 the sponge, and come out at the bottom, 
 it will be clear. 
 
 Knives and ForTcs. Handles of ebony 
 should be cleaned with a soft cloth, dip- 
 ped in a little sweet oil ; and after resting 
 awhile with the oil on them, let them be 
 well wiped with a clean towel. Ivory or 
 bone handles ought to be washed with a 
 soaped flannel and lukewarm water, and 
 then wiped with a dry towel. To pre- 
 serve or restore their whiteness, soak 
 them occasionally in alum-water that has 
 been boiled and then grown cold. Let 
 them lie for an hour in a vessel of this 
 alum-water. Then take them out, and 
 brush them well with a small brush (a 
 tooth-brush will do), and afterwards take 
 a clean linen towel, dip it in cold water, 
 squeeze it out ; and, while wet, wrap it 
 round the handles, leaving them in it to 
 dry gradually, as, if dried too fast, out 
 of the alum-water, they will be injured. 
 If properly managed, this process will 
 make them very white. 
 
 To clean Black Lace Veils. These are 
 cleansed by passing them through a warm 
 liquor of bullock's gall and water ; after 
 which they must be rinsed in cold water, 
 then cleansed for stiffening and finished 
 as follows : Take a small piece of glue, 
 
 about the size of a bean, pour boiling 
 water upon it, which will dissolve it, and 
 when dissolved, pass the veil through it, 
 then clap it between your hands. 
 
 To taJce out paint from a dress.-~ 
 When fresh (having wiped off as much 
 as you can), it may be taken out by re- 
 peated applications of spirits of turpen- 
 tine or of spirits of wine, rubbed with a 
 soft rag or a flannel. Ether also will ef- 
 face it, if applied immediately. If the 
 paint has been allowed to harden, nothing 
 will take it off but spirits of turpentine, 
 rubbed on with perseverance. 
 
 Indelible Harking Ink, without pre- 
 paration. One drachm and a half nitrate 
 of silver (lunar caustic), one ounce dis- 
 tilled water, half an ounce strong muci- 
 lage of gum arabic, three-quarters of a 
 drachm of liquid ammonia; mix the above 
 in a clean glass bottle, cork tightly, and 
 keep hi a dark place till dissolved, and 
 ever afterwards. Directions for use : 
 Shake the bottle, then dip a clean quill 
 pen in the ink, and write or draw what 
 you require on the article ; immediately 
 hold it close to the fire, or pass a hot 
 iron over it, and it will become a deep 
 and indelible black, indestructible by 
 either time or acids. 
 
 To take Impressions of Butterflies* 
 Wings. Clip the wings of the butterfly. 
 Lay them on clean paper, in the form of 
 a butterfly, when flying. Spread some 
 thick clean gum water on another piece 
 of paper, press it on the wings, and it 
 will take them up ; lay a piece of white 
 paper over it, and rub it gently with 
 your finger. Then draw the body in the 
 space left between the wings. 
 
 Clothes Balls. Take four ounces of 
 fuller's earth, dried so as to crumble into 
 powder, and mix with it half an ounce 
 of pearlash. Wet it with a sufficiency 
 of lemon-juice to work -it into a stiff 
 paste. Then form it into balls, and dry 
 
THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 them in the sun, or on the top of a 
 moderately warm stove. When quite 
 dry put them away for use. They will 
 be found efficacious in removing grease 
 spots and stains from articles of clothing, 
 first wetting the spot with cold water, 
 and then rubbing on the ball ; afterwards 
 drying the place in the sun or by the fire, 
 and then washing it off with a sponge and 
 clean water. 
 
 Fine Home-Made Candles. Take ten 
 ounces of fresh mutton fat or suet, a 
 quarter of a pound of bleached white 
 wax, a quarter of an ounce of camphor, 
 and two ounces of alum. Cut or break 
 up all these articles, and then melt them 
 together, skimming them well. Have 
 ready the wicks (which should be pre- 
 viously soaked in lime-water and salt- 
 petre, and then thoroughly dried), fix 
 them in the moulds, and pour in the 
 melted liquid, proceeding as in making 
 common mould candles. Candles made 
 in this manner of the above materials, 
 are hard and durable, and will not run ; 
 burning also with a very clear light. 
 
 Packing Household Articles. In pack- 
 ing for the removal of a family to a dis- 
 tant place, let all the boxes and trunks 
 be numbered, and the numbers put down 
 in a book ; let some one who overlooks 
 the whole of the packing, set down every 
 article, denoting the exact box or trunk 
 in which it is placed, and the order in 
 which the things are put in, beginning 
 with those at the bottom. By this means, 
 after arriving at the place of destination, 
 you will know, by consulting your book, 
 where to find whatever you want ; and 
 which of the boxes it will be best to 
 open first. Also, in a long sea voyage, 
 if there is occasion to have a trunk 
 brought from the hold to get out of it 
 any particular article, your book will tell 
 exactly in which of your trunks the ar- 
 ticle is. 
 
 To wash Vials. Put into a washkettle 
 
 some sifted ashes, and pour on it cold 
 water. Then put in the vials (without 
 corks), place the kettle over the fire, and 
 let it gradually come to a boil. After it 
 has boiled awhile, take it off. and set it 
 aside ; letting the vials remain in it till 
 cold. Then take them out, rinse, drain 
 them, and wipe the outsides. You may 
 wash black bottles in the same manner. 
 If you have occasion to wash a single vial 
 or bottle, pour into it through a small 
 funnel either some lye, or some lukewarm 
 water in which a little pearlash has been 
 dissolved ; shake, let it stand awhile to 
 soak. Then rinse it well in cold water, 
 two or three times. If it still smells of 
 the former contents, soak it in more 
 pearl-ash water (with the addition of a 
 little lime), or in more lye. 
 
 Cleaning Kettles and Saucepans. A 
 receipt for cleaning the inside of kettles 
 or saucepans of the hard, stony sub- 
 stance, resulting from continually boiling 
 hard water : In a kettle of boiling water, 
 put about the sixteenth part of an ounce 
 of sal-ammonia. Let it boil one hour, 
 and then the substance will be dissolved, 
 and is readily disengaged from the 
 metal. 
 
 To remove Black Stains from the STcin. 
 Half an ounce each of cream of tartar 
 and oxalic acid, mixed and pounded to- 
 gether, kept in a covered cup in the 
 drawer, and marked " poison." To use 
 it, wet the black stains with the corner 
 of a towel, dipped in water, rub on a little of 
 the mixture. Then immediately wash it off 
 with water, and afterwards with soap and 
 water, and the black stains will be visible 
 no longer. This mixture will also remove 
 ink, and all other stains from the fingers, 
 and from white clothes. It is more 
 speedy in its effects, if applied with warm 
 water. 
 
 For cleaning Wainscots, and other 
 Painted Woods.-Four ounces of potash and 
 four ounces *of powdered quick-lime are 
 
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 
 
 577 
 
 to be mixed together, and boiled for half 
 an hour in three quarts of water ; this 
 mixture is to stand until it is cold, and 
 quite clear ; the clear liquid is then pour- 
 ed off, and a painter's brush, dipped into 
 it, is to be passed over the surface of the 
 wood, in the same way as for painting, 
 immediately afterwards washing with 
 cold water. This mode of cleaning will 
 frequently render a new coat of paint 
 unnecessar} 7 ", and it has the advantage of 
 being destructive to the eggs of insects 
 which may be deposited in the interstices 
 of the wood ; where there is reason to 
 suspect that bugs are m the wood, it may 
 be well, as an additional precaution, to 
 add to the mixture two drachms of cor- 
 rosive sublimate. 
 
 Balloons from Turkey's Crops. Free 
 the crop from a thick coat of fat ; turn 
 the inside out, and wash the food away ; 
 soak it in water for a day or two, then 
 lay it on a cloth, and with a bone or 
 knife scrape off the internal coat of the 
 stomach ; wash it well and dry it with a 
 clean cloth ; then turn the crop, and make 
 an incision through the external coats, 
 taking particular care not to cut through 
 the membrane ; draw the coats at once 
 over the neck, which must be cut long 
 for greater convenience in using the bal- 
 loon when finished. Proceed with the 
 other neck in the same way ; tie it firm 
 with silk, and cut it close to the body of 
 the balloon ; it must be then distended 
 with wind and hung up to dry. It may 
 then be painted and varnished, but will 
 not require it if properly prepared. It 
 may be made large enough to contain a 
 gallon of gas, and so light as to weigh 
 only thirty grains. 
 
 Black Paper for Drawing Patterns. 
 Mix lamp-black and sweet oil ; with a bit 
 of flannel cover a sheet or two of large 
 writing-paper with this mixture; then 
 dab the paper dry with a bit of fine linen, 
 and keep it for using in the following 
 
 manner : Put the black side on another 
 sheet of paper, and fasten the corners to- 
 gether with small pins. Lay on the back 
 of the black paper the pattern to be 
 drawn, and go over it with the point of 
 a steel pencil ; the black paper will then 
 leave the impression of the pattern on 
 the under sheet, on which you must draw 
 it with ink. 
 
 If you draw patterns on cloth or mus- 
 lin, do it with a pen dipped in a bit of 
 stone blue, a bit of sugar, and a little 
 water, mixed smooth in a teacup, in 
 which it will be always ready for use, if 
 fresh ; wet to a due consistence as 
 wanted. 
 
 Preservation of BooJcs. A few drops 
 of any perfumed oil will secure libraries 
 from the consuming effects of mouldiness 
 and damp. 
 
 Water-proof Boots. -Saturate the boots 
 with solution of Caoutchouc (India- 
 rubber), till they will absorb no more, 
 at intervals of a week, without needing 
 to leave a coating on the surface. The 
 solution is made with an ounce of India- 
 rubber in a pint of spirits of turpentine, 
 or coal naphtha, kept warm, and oc- 
 casionally stirred till dissolved, which 
 takes three or four days. In a boiling 
 water bath it can be done in a few 
 hours. 
 
 To clean Head and Clothes-brushes. 
 Put a table-spoonful of pearl-ash into 
 a pint of boiling water. Having fastened 
 a bit of sponge to the end of a stick, dip 
 it into the solution, and wash the brush 
 with it, carefully going in among the 
 bristles. Next pour over it some clean 
 hot water, and let it lie a little while. 
 Then drain it ; wipe and dry it before the 
 fire. 
 
 To make Artificial Red Coral Branches 
 for the Embellishment of Grottoes.-^ 
 Take clear resin, dissolve it in a brass- 
 pan, to every ounce of which add two 
 
5T8 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 drachms of the finest vermilion ; when 
 stirred well together, choose the twigs 
 and branches, peeled and dried ; then take 
 a pencil and paint the branches all over 
 whilst the composition is warm ; after- 
 wards shape them in imitation of natural 
 coral. This done, hold the branches 
 over a gentle coal-fire till all is smooth 
 and even, as if polished. In the same 
 manner white coral may be prepared with 
 white lead, and black coral with lamp- 
 black. A grotto may be built, with little 
 expense, of glass, cinders, pebbles, pieces 
 of large flint, shells, moss, stones, coun- 
 terfeit coral, pieces of chalk, &c., all bound 
 or cemented together with the above de- 
 scribed cement. 
 
 To dean Cane Chair Bottoms. Turn 
 up the chair bottom, and with hot water 
 and a sponge wash the cane- work well, 
 so that it may become completely soaked ; 
 should it be very dirty, you may add 
 soap. Let it dry in the open air if pos- 
 sible, or in a place where there is a 
 thorough draught, and it will become as 
 tight and firm as when new, providing 
 that it has not been broken. 
 
 To clean Decanters. Roll up in small 
 pieces some coarse brown paper, then 
 wet and soap the same, put them into 
 the vessel with a little lukewarm water, 
 and some common soda, shake them well, 
 then rinse with clean water, and it will 
 be as bright and clear as when new. 
 
 To render Shoes Water-proof. Mix a 
 pint of drying oil, two ounces of yellow 
 wax, two ounces of turpentine, and half 
 an ounce of Burgundy pitch, over a slow 
 fire. Lay the mixture, while hot, on the 
 boots or shoes with a sponge or soft 
 brush ; and, when they are dry, lay it on 
 again and again, until the leather becomes 
 quite saturated, that is to say, will hold 
 no more. Let them then be "put away, 
 and not be worn until they are perfectly 
 dry and elastic : they will afterwards be 
 found jiot only impenetrable to wet, but 
 
 soft and pliable, and of much longe 
 duration. 
 
 To clean papered Walls. The very 
 best method' is to rub them with stale 
 bread. Out the crust off very thick, and 
 wipe straight down from the top, then 
 go to the top again, and so on. The staler 
 the bread the better. 
 
 To cleanse Feather Beds and Mattresses. 
 When feather beds become solid or 
 heavy, they may be made clean and light 
 thus : Rub them over with a stiff brush, 
 dipped in hot soap-suds. When clean, 
 lay them on a shed or any other clean 
 place, where the rain will fall on them. 
 When thoroughly soaked, let them dry 
 in a hot sun for six or seven davs, shak 
 ing them up well, and turning them over 
 each day. They should be covered over 
 with a thick cloth during the night. This 
 way of washing the bed-ticking and 
 feathers makes them very fresh and light, 
 and is much easier than the old fashioned 
 way of emptying the beds, and washing 
 the feathers separately, while it answers 
 quite as well. Care must be taken to 
 dry the bed perfectly, before sleeping 
 on it. 
 
 To keep Eggs Half a pint of salt, 
 half a pint of lime to two gallons of hot 
 water. Cover the eggs with the solution. 
 
 To preserve various Icinds of Fruits 
 through the Winter. Apples can be 
 kept till June, by taking only those that 
 are hard and sound, wiping them dry, 
 then packing them in tight barrels, with 
 a layer of bran to each layer of apples. 
 Envelope the barrel in a linen cloth, to 
 protect it from frost, and keep it in a cool 
 place, but net so cold as to freeze the 
 apples. It is said that mortar, laid over 
 the top of a barrel of apples, is a good 
 thing to preserve them, as it draws the 
 air from them, which is the principal 
 cause of their decaying. Care should be 
 taken not to have it come in contact with 
 the apples. To preserve oranges and 
 
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 
 
 579 
 
 lemons several months, take those that 
 are perfectly fresh, and wrap each one in 
 soft paper ; put them in glass jars, or a 
 very light box, with white sand, that has 
 been previously dried in an oven a few 
 hours, after it has been baked in. The 
 sand should be strewed thick over each 
 one of the oranges, as they are laid in the 
 iar, and the whole covered with a thick 
 layer of it. Close the jar up tight, and 
 keep it in a cool dry place, but not so 
 cool as to freeze the fruit. To preserve 
 grapes, gather them on a dry day, when 
 they are not quite dead ripe, and pick 
 those that are not far off from the stems. 
 Lay the bunches of grapes in a glass jar, 
 and sprinkle around each of them a thick 
 layer of bran, so that they will not touch 
 each other. Have a thick layer of bran 
 on the top, and cork and seal the jar very 
 tight, so that the air may be entirely ex- 
 cluded. 
 
 To destroy Cockroaches, Ants, and 
 other Household Vermin. Hellebore, 
 rubbed over with molasses and put 
 round the places that cockroaches fre- 
 quent, is a very effectual poison for them. 
 Quicksilver and the white of an egg, beat 
 together, and laid with a feather round 
 the crevices of the bedsteads and the 
 sacking, is very effectual in destroying 
 bugs in them. To kill flies, when so 
 numerous as to be troublesome, keep 
 cobalt, wet with spirit, in a large shallow 
 plate. The spirit will attract the flies, 
 and the cobalt will kill them very soon. 
 The flour of sulphur is said to be good to 
 drive ants away,, if sprinkled around the 
 places that they frequent. Weak brine 
 will kill worms in gravel walks, if kept 
 moist with it a week in the spring, and 
 three or four days in the fall. 
 
 COMMON SIMPLE DYES. 
 
 To dye Black. Allow a pound of log- 
 wood to each pound of goods that are to 
 be dyed. Soak it over night in soft wa- 
 ter, then boil it an hour, and strain the 
 
 water in which it is boiled. For each 
 pound of logwood, dissolve an ounce of 
 blue vitriol in lukewarm water sufficient 
 to wet the goods. Dip the goods in 
 when saturated with it, turn the whole 
 into the logwood dye. If the goods are 
 cotton set the vessel on the fire, and let 
 the goods boil ten or fifteen minutes, 
 stirring them constantly to prevent their 
 spotting. Silk and woollen goods should 
 not be boiled in the dye-stuff, but it 
 should be kept at a scalding heat for 
 twenty minutes. Drain the goods with- 
 out wringing, and hang them in a dry, 
 shady place, where they will have the 
 air. When dry, set the color by, put 
 them into scalding hot water, that has 
 salt in it, in the proportion of a teacupful 
 to three gallons of the water. Let the 
 goods remain in it till cold, then hang 
 them where they will dry ; they should 
 not be wrung. Boiling hot suds is the 
 best thing to set the color of black silk 
 let it remain in it till cold. Soaking 
 black-dyed goods in sour milk, is also 
 good to set the color. 
 
 Green and Hue Dye, for Silks and 
 Woollens. For green dye, take a pound 
 of oil of vitriol, and turn it upon half an 
 ounce of Spanish indigo, that has been re- 
 duced to a fine powder. Stir them well 
 together, then add a lump of pearlash, 
 of the size of a pea ; as soon as the fer- 
 mentation ceases, bottle it the dye will 
 be fit for use the next day. Chemical blue 
 is made in the same manner, only using 
 half the quantity of vitriol. For woollen 
 goods, the East indigo will answer as well 
 as the Spanish, and comes much lower. 
 This dye will not answer for cotton 
 goods, as the vitriol rots the threads. 
 Wash the articles that are to be dyed till 
 perfectly clean, and free from color. li 
 you cannot extract the color by rubbing it 
 in hot suds, boil it out, and rinse ic in soft 
 water, till entirely free from soap, as the 
 soap will ruin the dye. To dye a pale 
 color, put to each quart of soft warm wa- 
 
580 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 ter that is to be used for the dye. ten 
 drops of the above composition ; if you 
 wish a deep color, more will be necessary. 
 Put in the articles without crowd ing. and 
 let them remain in till of a good color 
 the dye-stuff should be kept warm. Take 
 the articles out without wringing, drain as 
 much of the dye out of them as possible, 
 then hang them to dry in a shady, airy 
 place. They should be dyed when the 
 weather is dry if not dried quick, they 
 will not look nice. When perfectly dry. 
 wash them in lukewarm suds, to keep 
 the vitriol from injuring the texture of 
 the cloth. If you wish for a lively bright 
 green, mix a little of the above composi- 
 tion with yellow dye. 
 
 Yellow Dyes. To dye buff color, boil 
 equal parts of annatto and common pot- 
 ash, in soft clear water. When dissolv- 
 ed, take it from the fire ; when cool, put* 
 in the goods, which should previously be 
 washed free from spots and color ; set 
 them on a moderate fire where they will 
 keep hot, till the goods are of the shade 
 you wish. To dye salmon and orange 
 color, tie annatto in a bag, and soak it in 
 warm soft soap suds, till it becomes soft, 
 so that you can squeeze enough of it 
 through the bag to make the suds a deep 
 yellow put in the articles, which should 
 be clean, and free from color ; boil them 
 till of the shade you wish. There should 
 be enough of the dye to cover the goods 
 stir them while boiling, to keep them 
 from spotting. This dye will make a 
 salmon or orange color, according to the 
 strength of it, and the time the goods re- 
 main in. Drain them out of the dye, and 
 dry them quick, in the shade when dry, 
 wash them in soft soap suds. Goods 
 dyed in this manner should never be 
 rinsed in clear water. Peach leaves, fus- 
 tic, and saffron, all make a good straw or 
 lemon color, according to the strength of 
 the dye. They should be steeped in fair 
 soft water, in an earthen or tin vessel, and 
 then strained, and the dye set with alum, 
 
 and a little gum arabic dissolved in the 
 dye, if you wish to stiffen the article. 
 When the dye-stuff is strained, steep the 
 articles in it. 
 
 Red Dyes. Madder makes a good dur- 
 able red, but not a brilliant color. To 
 make dye of it, allow for half a pound of 
 it three ounces of alum, and one of cream 
 of tartar, and six gallons of water. This 
 proportion of ingredients will make suf- 
 ficient dye for six or seven pounds of 
 goods. Heat half of the water scalding 
 hot, in a clean brass kettle, then put in 
 the alum and cream of tartar, and let it 
 dissolve. When the water boils, stir the 
 alum and tartar up in it, put in the goods, 
 and let them boil a couple of hours ; 
 then rinse them in fair water empty the 
 kettle, and put in three gallons of water, 
 and the madder ; rub it fine in the water, 
 then put in the goods, and set them 
 where they will keep scalding hot for an 
 hour, without boiling stir them con- 
 stantly. When they have been scalding 
 an hour, increase the fire till they boil. 
 Let them boil five minutes, then drain 
 them out of the dye, and rinse them, 
 without wringing, in fair water, and hang 
 them in the shade, where they will dry. 
 To dye a fine crimson, take for each 
 pound of goods two and a half ounces of 
 alum, an ounce and a half of white tar- 
 tar put them in a brass kettle, with suf- 
 ficient fair water to cover your goods ; 
 set it where it will boil briskly for 
 several minutes ; then put in the goods, 
 which should be washed clean, and rinsed 
 in fair water. When the goods have 
 boiled half an hour, take them out, with- 
 out wringing, and hang where they will 
 cool all over alike, without drying ; empty 
 out the alum and tartar water, put fresh 
 water in the kettle, and for each pound 
 of goods to be dyed, put in an ounce of 
 cochineal, powdered fine. Set the kettle 
 on the fire, and let the water boil fifteen 
 or twenty minutes ; then put in sufficient 
 cold water to make it lukewarm, put in 
 
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 
 
 581 
 
 the goods, and boil them an hour and a 
 quarter take them out without wring- 
 ing, and dry them in a shady place. The 
 blossoms of the Balm of Gilead, steeped 
 with fair water in a vessel, then strained, 
 will give silk a pretty red color. The 
 silk should be washed clean and free from 
 color, then rinsed in fair water, and boil- 
 ed in the strained dye, with a small 
 piece of alum. To dye a fine delicate 
 pink, use a carmine saucer the direc- 
 tions for dyeing come with the saucers. It 
 is too expensive a dye for bulky goods, 
 but for faded fancy shawls and ribbons, 
 it is quite worth the while to use it, as it 
 gives a beautiful shade of pink. 
 
 Slate-Colored Dye. To make a good 
 dark slate color, boil sugar-loaf paper 
 with vinegar in an iron utensil put in 
 alum to set the color. Tea-grounds, set 
 with copperas, make a good slate color. 
 To produce a light slate color, boil white 
 maple bark in the clear water, with a lit- 
 tle alum ; the bark should be boiled in a 
 brass utensil, and the dye for slate color 
 put into it. Goods should be boiled in it, 
 and then hung where they will drain and 
 dry. 
 
 To preserve Steel Pens from Corrosion. 
 Dip them for a few moments in ethereal 
 solution of gold. This covers them with 
 a film of pure metallic gold, which pre- 
 vents the ink acting upon the steel. 
 
 Corns. The laminated corn, or cal- 
 lus, produced by pressure, congestion, 
 and increased formation of epidermis, may 
 be softened by moisture, as by soaking 
 in warm water, by the application of a 
 starch or soap poultice ; and, being soft- 
 ened, the thick cuticle may be thinned 
 by scraping with a blunt knife, or it 
 may be dissolved by an alkaline solution, 
 with moderate friction. When the thick- 
 ening has been reduced sufficiently, it 
 may be kept down by daily washing 
 with soap. The eye of the corn may be 
 always made visible by rubbing the part 
 with eau-de-cologne or spirits of wine ; 
 37 
 
 and any remains of the core should be 
 removed with the point of a knife. Af- 
 ter the operation, the corn should be 
 covered with a piece of soft plaster for a 
 day or two, and a perforated plaster 
 of buff leather subsequently worn to 
 keep off pressure from the centre of the 
 growth. The removal of a corn may be 
 very considerably aided by the use of 
 the compound tincture of iodine painted 
 on the swelling. When the corn is pain- 
 ful, this application subdues the sensibili- 
 ty, and renders the corn dry and pliable, 
 and easy of removal by means of a file. 
 Soap and water, so useful to the skin in 
 many ways, are especially serviceable to 
 feet afflicted with corns, and particularly 
 when they are soft corns. Daily wash- 
 ing with soap, and the subsequent inter- 
 position of a piece of cotton-wool between 
 the toes, may be considered as a cure for 
 soft corns. In these cases, the skin may 
 be hardened by sponging with spirits of 
 camphor after the washing. The cot- 
 ton-wool should be removed at night; 
 and this is a good time for the camphor- 
 ated spirits. Adhesive plaster, sonstantly 
 applied, will remove soreness and twin- 
 ging, and often effect an entire cure. 
 
 Dandruff. Nitric acid, twelve drops ; 
 Distilled water, three ounces. Mix, and 
 apply once a day. 
 
 Rat Poison. Kecent experiments 
 have shown that squills is an excellent 
 poison for rats. The powder should be 
 mixed with some fatty substance, and 
 spread upon sl.ces of bread. 
 
 Asthma. A prominent professor in 
 one of our New-England colleges, who 
 has been an asthmatic for upwards of 
 brty years, and tried a great variety of 
 remedies, gives this the preference over 
 all others. It consists simply in inhaling 
 the smoke of stramonium leaves, which 
 lave been hnmersed in a saturated solu- 
 tion of nitre (nitrate of potassa), and 
 then dried. Prepared in this way, it 
 )urns with great energy and complete- 
 
582 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 ness, rarely going out until the whole is 
 consumed. These remedies, separately, 
 have long been known, both to profes- 
 sional and private experience ; but the 
 combination seems particularly conve- 
 nient and useful. It is best kept in a tin 
 or other metallic box, the inside of the 
 cover being used as a surface on which to 
 burn it while inhaling. The effects are 
 the more marked if it is used early, and 
 before the paroxysm becomes fully de- 
 veloped. 
 
 Ingrowing Toe-Nail. This painful 
 abnormal condition of the toe-nail may 
 be cured by allowing the nail to con- 
 tinue to grow without paring it. The 
 boot or shoe will depress the nail at the 
 end as it grows longer, which will gradu- 
 ally elevate the part where it presses 
 upon and into the soft tissues of the toe ; 
 thus removing the irritation, the sore 
 soon heals. This is far preferable to the 
 rash and painful operation of tearing off 
 the toe-nail with forceps. 
 
 Glycerine Lotion. Take of Glycer- 
 ine, inodorous, 3 fluid ounces. Muci- 
 lage of gum arabic, 10 fluid drachms. 
 Pulv. cochineal, 5 grains. Hot water, 1 
 1-2 fluid ounces. Deod. alcohol, 2 1-2 
 fluid ounces. Oil of rose, 8 drops. 
 Pulv. gum arabic, 1-2 drachm. Water, 
 8 fluid ounces. 
 
 Rub the cochineal with the hot water 
 gradually added, and then add the al- 
 cohol ; triturate the oil of rose with the 
 gum arabic, and gradually add the water. 
 With this mix well the solution first 
 formed, and filter, and to the filtered 
 liquid add the glycerine and mucilage 
 and shake well. This forms a beautiful 
 and elegant preparation, with a rich, 
 rosy fragrance. It renders the skin soft 
 and smooth, and is excellent as an 
 application to the face after shaving. 
 
 Laundry Polish. Take two ounces 
 of fine white gum-arabic powder, put it 
 into a pitcher, and pour on a pint of 
 water ; and then, having covered it, let 
 
 it stand all night. In the morning pour 
 it carefully from the dregs into a clean 
 bottle, cork it, and keep it for use. A 
 tablespoonful of this gum-water, added to 
 a pint of starch made in the usual man- 
 ner, will give to lawns, either white or 
 printed, a look of newness, after they 
 are washed. It is excellent as a polish 
 for shirt-bosoms and other starched 
 linen. 
 
 Ventilation, Sunlight, and Warm Cloth- 
 ing. Fresh air by day and by night, 
 strong and nourishing food, dry soil on 
 which to live, sunlight, and warm cloth- 
 ing, are the means of saving many lives 
 which would have been hopelessly lost in 
 the preceding generation. If our conjec- 
 tures are correct, this improvement may 
 be expected to continue ; and everybody 
 can make it greater. Ventilate the 
 schoolrooms and the workshops, and 
 the stores and the houses. In cold 
 weather, let the air, comfortably and 
 equally wanned, be generally supplied 
 from without in a constantly-flowing cur- 
 rent. Let those who can provide it in 
 their homes remember that an open fire, 
 which sends two-thirds of the heat up 
 the chimney, furnishes the best ventila- 
 tion, for a room of moderate size which 
 the ingenuity of man has yet devised; 
 and that the heat escaping by the flue is 
 the price to be paid for it. Let in the 
 sunlight, and never mind the carpets; 
 better they should fade than the health 
 of the family. When a man proposes to 
 build a dwelling in a swamp, warn him 
 of his danger. 
 
 Rheumatism. Rheumatism is improp- 
 erly regarded as an inflammatory affec- 
 tion of the joints. The pains and in- 
 flammation there stand in the same 
 degree to the disease as the pustules 
 or the scarlet eruption in smallpox and 
 in scarlet fever do to these diseases. 
 In rheumatism the pains are merely the 
 symptoms of a general febrile disease. 
 It is to this, therefore, that the attention 
 
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 
 
 583 
 
 is to be turned. There is in every in- 
 stance a condition of plethora which con- 
 stitutes the predisposition to rheumatism, 
 and w4iich renders cold, or exposure to 
 currents of air, capable of producing the 
 disease. Of the medical treatment it is 
 not necessary to speak here ; but with 
 respect to the prevention of the attack, 
 or the warding off its return after it has 
 been relieved, the following rules should 
 be observed : 
 
 First. It is of the utmost importance 
 to commence the renewal of the move- 
 ments of the affected joints as early as 
 possible after the pain is allayed. Their 
 strength and flexibility depend solely on 
 the early renewal of motion. On the 
 contrary, rest tends to retard the restora- 
 tion of the affected parts to complete 
 health. They remain painful and stiff, 
 and resist every movement which is at- 
 tempted : the more motion is cultivated, 
 the sooner are the limbs restored to their 
 natural functions. Their exercise recov- 
 ers the balance of the circulation, pre- 
 vents effusion, aids absorption, and con- 
 sequently favors flexibility. If rest be 
 indulged, from the dread of pain, the 
 joints and the parts surrounding them 
 become rigid, contracted, and their free 
 action permanently impaired, while the 
 muscles waste, and lose their power of 
 contracting. 
 
 Second. Friction, and the daily use 
 of the salt-water shower-bath, have a 
 powerful effect in warding off the returns 
 of the disease. (The salt-water shower- 
 bath is made by the addition of a quart 
 of salt brine to three pailfuls of water.) 
 
 Third. Flannel next the skin, and 
 warm clothing generally, are absolutely 
 essential. In a changeable climate, daily 
 attention in adapting dress to the weath- 
 er is required. 
 
 Fourth. Due attention must be given 
 to diet. Bear in mind that improper 
 food, or eating to oppression, causes indi- 
 gestion. Bad digestion produces bad 
 
 blood ; and bad blood causes rheumatism, 
 and ailments of every nature. Plain 
 nourishing food is what the system de- 
 mands being regulated in quantity by 
 the exercise taken, and time spent in the 
 open air. Saccharine matters, pastry, 
 sweetmeats, and whatever can contribute 
 to a dyspeptic state of the digestive 
 organs should be avoided ; and, unless 
 the strength be greatly reduced, water 
 should be the only beverage. 
 
 1 . Toothache Drops. Take of tincture 
 of opium, two fluid drachms ; ether, four 
 fluid drachms; oil of cloves, one-half 
 fluid drachm; mix, with agitation, and 
 shake it each time before use. 
 
 2. Take of creosote, one drachm ; chlo- 
 roform, two drachms ; alcohol, three fluid 
 drachms ; mix, &c., as the last. 
 
 A little cotton saturated with either of 
 the above compounds, and placed in the 
 cavity of the decayed tooth, will often 
 produce immediate relief. 
 
 Whooping-CougJi. Dr. Howard Sar- 
 gent, of Boston, states that for eight or 
 ten years past he has used, as a remedy 
 for whooping-cough, a tea made from 
 red-clover blossoms. He remarks, " It is 
 so simple that many would not give it a 
 seconi thought. I can say with truth 
 that I never knew it fail. I generally 
 expect a cure in ten days. Four years 
 ago I had children in three families sick 
 at the same time ; they were all well in 
 ten, twelve, or fourteen days. There is 
 some care and art necessary in making 
 the tea. I select and cure the blossoms 
 myself, and take of the best blossoms 
 about two ounces to a pint of boiling 
 water, steep for four hours, and give a 
 wineglassful occasionally during the day. 
 Should it operate on the bowels, no harm 
 is done ; the dose, in that case, may be 
 diminished. I ask physicians to try it 
 before they reject it. -I sometimes add a 
 little honey to make it more palatable." 
 
 Piles. Take three grains sulphate 
 of morphine, thirty grains extract of 
 
584 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER, 
 
 stramonium, sixty grains carbonate of 
 lead, one teaspoonful olive oil, and three 
 drachms lard cerate. Rub the extract, if 
 not uniformly soft, with a few drops of 
 water ; add the powders and olive oil, and 
 rub till perfectly smooth, and then in- 
 corporate them with the cerate. To be 
 applied externally as occasion may re- 
 quire. 
 
 Itching of the Anus. Take equal parts 
 citrine ointment and simple cerate, and 
 thoroughly rub together. The above 
 compound applied to the part, and rubbed 
 in, is very efficacious in allaying this 
 troublesome complaint. It should be at 
 least strong enough to produce some 
 smarting, and the application continued 
 until the itching is removed. 
 
 Pin Worms, with which children are 
 so often troubled, are destroyed and pass 
 from the bowels, by the external use of 
 diluted citrine ointment, prepared as 
 above, or made still weaker by the addi- 
 tion of more cerate. It should be intro- 
 duced an inch or two within the rectum, 
 and applied gently to the lining mem- 
 brane. 
 
 A Valuable Liniment. A liniment 
 which we have found most serviceable in 
 the family and in the stable is prepared 
 as follows : 
 
 Alcohol (ninety-five per cent), one 
 quart. Fluid extract of arnica, four 
 fluid ounces. Camphor, two fluid ounces. 
 Stronger aqua-ammonia, one fluid ounce. 
 Tinct. opium, one fluid ounce. Water 
 one quart. 
 
 Add to the alcohol the arnica, camphor 
 ammonia, and tincture of opium ; and 
 after the camphor is dissolved, the water 
 may be added. This liniment may be 
 applied for the relief of sprains, bruises 
 rheumatic and neuralgic pains, &c., with 
 decided advantage. For use in the cow 
 and horse stable, it will be found mos 
 efficient. 
 
 SYRUPS FOR SODA AND MINERAL 
 WATER. 
 
 Sarsaparilla. Take of simple syrup- 
 bur pints ; compound syrup of sarsapa- 
 rilla, four fluid ounces ; caramel, one and 
 i half fluid ounces ; oil of wintergreen 
 md sassafras, of each, six drops. 
 
 Lemon. Grate off* the yellow rind of 
 emons, and beat it up with a sufficient 
 quantity of granulated sugar. Express 
 he lemon-juice; add to each pint of 
 uice one pint of water, and three and a 
 lalf pounds of granulated sugar, includ- 
 ng that rubbed up with the rind ; warm 
 until the sugar is dissolved, and strain. 
 
 Another recipe for lemon syrup is as 
 follows : Dissolve six drachms of tartar- 
 ic acid and one ounce of gum arabic in 
 pieces, in one gallon of simple syrup ; 
 then flavor with one and a half fluid 
 drachms of best oil of lemon, or flavor 
 with the saturated tincture of the peel in 
 cologne spirits. 
 
 Orange. This may be made from 
 the fruit in the same way as lemon syrup, 
 or the following formula may be used : 
 Dissolve six drachms of citric acid in one 
 gallon of simple syrup, and add two fluid 
 drachms of iresh oil of orange in two 
 ounces of alcohol; or instead of the 
 alcohol solution of the oil, use the satu- 
 rated tincture obtained by macerating 
 the fresh peel for ten days in sufficient 
 cologne spirits to cover. 
 
 The lemon and orange syrups made 
 from the fruit, after being strained, may 
 be diluted with an equal bulk of simple 
 syrup. One dozen of the fruit is suffi- 
 cient to make one gallon of finished 
 syrup. 
 
 Ginger. Mix two fluid ounces of 
 tincture of ginger with four pints of sim- 
 ple syrup. 
 
 Vanilla. Mix two fluid ounces of 
 extract of vanilla with four pints of sim- 
 ple syrup. 
 
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 
 
 585 
 
 Strawberry, Raspberry, or Pine-apple. 
 Mash the fresh fruit, express the juice, 
 and to each quart add three and a half 
 pounds of granulated sugar. The juice, 
 heated to 180 degrees Fahrenheit, and 
 strained or filtered previous to dissolving 
 the sugar, will keep for an indefinite 
 time. 
 
 Nectar. Mix three parts vanilla syr- 
 up with one each of pine-apple and 
 lemon syrups. 
 
 Sherbet. Mix equal parts of orange, 
 pine-apple and vanilla syrups. 
 
 Orgeat. Cream syrup and vanilla 
 syrup, each one pint; oil of bitter al- 
 monds, four minims. 
 
 Cream. Take of Borden's condensed 
 milk, one pint ; water, one pint ; sugar 
 one and a half pound. Heat to boiling, 
 and strain. This will keep for over a 
 week in a cool place. 
 
 Coffee. Pure coffee, roasted, half a 
 pound, is infused in boiling water, half a 
 gallon ; enough is filtered off to make 
 half a gallon of infusion, in which dissolve 
 seven pounds of granulated sugar. 
 
 Chocolate. Baker's chocolate, four 
 ounces ; dissolve in twenty ounces of 
 boiling water, and dissolve in this one 
 pound of granulated sugar. 
 
 Poisons and their Antidotes. In all 
 cases of poisoning, much depends upon 
 the promptness with which the antidote 
 is administered. The appropriate reme- 
 dy for acids is ralkalies, and vice versa. 
 If lye has been swallowed for water, a 
 mistake often made by children, give 
 at once a wine glassful of vinegar added 
 to an equal quantity of water. If oxalic 
 or citric or tartaric acid have been taken, 
 lose no time in administering a solution 
 of bi-carbonate of soda or saleratus, 
 remedies always at hand. 
 
 If the poison be morphine, narcotme, 
 laudanum, or any form of opium, aconite 
 or other powerful narcotic, a physician 
 should be immediately called, and the 
 stomach-pump applied. If too much 
 
 time is likely to be lost, resort at once to 
 an emetic, of which most families have 
 an excellent one in the house in the form 
 of ground mustard-seed. Of this give 
 two teaspoonfuls stirred into a tumbler 
 of warm water, for an adult, reducing the 
 quantity for a child, and repeat every 
 five minutes until vomiting is pro- 
 duced. 
 
 If corrosive sublimate, arsenic, or other 
 mineral poisons have been taken, the 
 prompt use of the mustard emetic, or 
 stomach-pump, is required. White of 
 eggs should be freely taken in all such 
 cases, as a good medium for suspending 
 the poison, and thereby saving the coats 
 of the stomach. Always remembering 
 that no time is to be lost in procuring 
 attendance of the family physician. Bear 
 in mind that bedbug poison is generally 
 made of corrosive sublimate. When 
 used at all, what remains should be im- 
 mediately thrown away. It is never 
 safe, wherever hid, or however labelled. 
 It is so deadly a poison, and has destroyed 
 so many lives, it should never be kept in 
 the house. 
 
 Drowning, Restoration from. 1. Place 
 the patient on his back, with the shoul- 
 ders raised and supported on a folded 
 article of dress. 
 
 2. In order to keep up a free entrance 
 jfair into the lungs, draw the tongue for- 
 ward, and keep it projecting out of the 
 mouth beyond the lips ; it may be held 
 in this position by the teeth if the lower 
 jaw be raised. 
 
 3. To imitate the movements of breath- 
 ing, raise the patient's arms upward by 
 the sides of his head, and then extend 
 them gently and steadily upward and 
 forward for a few moments. (This ac- 
 tion induces inspiration or the passing of 
 air into the lungs, by enlarging the ca- 
 jacity of the chest.) 
 
 Next, turn down the arms, and press 
 ;hem gently and firmly for a few mo- 
 ments against the sides of the chest. 
 
586 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 (This produces a forced expulsion of air 
 from the lungs.) 
 
 Repeat these measures alternately 
 deliberately, and perseveringly, fifteen 
 times in a minute. 
 
 4. To induce circulation and warmth, do 
 not cease rubbing the limbs all this time 
 upward, with firm, grasping pressure 
 and with energy, using handkerchiefs, 
 flannels, &c. (This rubbing upward 
 causes the blood in the veins to flow to- 
 ward the heart, and should be done by 
 assistants.) 
 
 5. When the limbs are thus warmed 
 and dried, clothe the body, the by- 
 standers supplying the garments. 
 
 On the restoration of life, a teaspoon- 
 ful of warm water should be given ; and 
 then, if the power of swallowing has re- 
 turned, small quantities of warm coffee 
 ginger-tea, wine, brandy, and warm 
 water, &c., may be given. By pursuing 
 this treatment perseveringly and ener- 
 getically for several hours, many persons 
 have been resuscitated ; it is a mistaken 
 opinion that death has occurred because 
 life does not make its appearance in half 
 an hour or an hour. 
 
 Cautions to the bystanders. 1. Send 
 at once for a physician, and for dry 
 clothing. 2. Avoid all rough usage, and 
 be very careful not to turn the body on 
 the back. 3. Do not hold up the body 
 by the feet for any reason. 4. Do not 
 roll the body on barrels. 5. Do not rub 
 the body with salt or spirits. 6. Do 
 not inject tobacco smoke, or an infusion, 
 into the bowels. 7. Avoid the continu- 
 ous warm bath. 8. Be especially care- 
 ful to prevent persons crowding around 
 the body. 
 
 Apparent Death from Intense Cold. 
 TREATMENT. Be careful about employ- 
 ing warmth too soon, as its too quick and 
 free application will undoubtedly pro- 
 duce mortification, and endanger life. 
 
 Rub the body all over, at first with snow 
 or very cold water, continuing this for 
 from twenty to thirty minutes, or until 
 it becomes very red ; then wipe it per- 
 fectly dry, and let it be rubbed with the 
 warm hands of several persons at one 
 time. After this has been done for a 
 short time, remove the body to a cool 
 room, continuing the 'friction, and then 
 covering with hot flannel. To restore 
 breathing, make use of the same means 
 as recommended in "restoration from 
 drowning." 
 
 Greek Fire. Modern Greek fire is a 
 solution of phosphorus in bisulphide of 
 carbon. When this solution is poured 
 on paper, rags, or shavings, the bisul- 
 phide evaporates rapidly and leaves the 
 phosphorus in a state of very fine divis- 
 ion so fine that it takes fire spontane- 
 ously. It furnishes the means of per- 
 forming a very pretty lecture-room ex- 
 periment ; but as an incendiary agent it 
 is worthless, for the simple reason that it 
 does not set fire to even the thinnest and 
 driest boards. The phosphorus, in burn- 
 ing, produces a fusible and non-volatile 
 compound, and this glazes over all ob- 
 jects in its vicinity, and protects them 
 from the action of the flames. 
 
 To collect the Odors of Flowers. 
 Roses, and all flowers containing per- 
 fumed oils, may be made to yield their 
 aromatic properties by steeping the pet- 
 als in a flat dish of soft water, and setting 
 it in the sun. The petals should be en- 
 tirely covered with the water. A suffi- 
 cient quantity should be allowed for evap- 
 oration, and the vessel left undisturbed 
 a few days. A film will be found on the 
 top. This is the essential oil, and every 
 particle is impregnated with the odor 
 peculiar to the flower. Jt should be taken 
 up carefully and put in tiny vials, which 
 should be allowed to remain open till all 
 watery particles are evaporated. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Accounts, 33. 
 
 Accounts should be regular, IT. 
 
 Acetic acid, 549. 
 
 Adulteration of Food, 78. 
 
 Ague and Fever, 558. 
 
 Airing Rooms, 35. 
 
 Alabaster, to clean, 574 
 
 Ale Posset, 513. 
 
 Allspice, 130. 
 
 Almack, 484 
 
 Almond Balls, 548. 
 
 Almond Bread, 467. 
 
 Almond Cake, 477. 
 
 Almond Perfume, 537. 
 
 Almond Paste, 432. 
 
 Almond Posset, 493. 
 
 Almonds, Syrup of, 511. 
 
 Almoud Water, 524. 
 
 American " Help," 30. 
 
 Anchovies, Essence of, 206. 
 
 Anchovies, Toast of, 206. 
 
 Anchovies, with Fried Bread, 206. 
 
 Anchovies, to know good, 206. 
 
 Anchovy Sauce for Fish, 405. 
 
 Angelica, 134. 
 
 Animals, Names of Joints in, 116. 
 
 Aperient Electuary, 560. 
 
 Aperient for Children, 563. 
 
 Aperients, Spring, 563. 
 
 Aperient Pills, 563. 
 
 Aperient, Infant's, 564. 
 
 Apple Bread, 469. 
 
 Apple Butter, 506. 
 
 Apple Charlotte, 445. 
 
 Apple Codlings, to pickle, 400. 
 
 Apples, to Bake, 520. 
 
 Apple Cake, for Children, 528. 
 
 Apple Dumplings, 443. 
 
 Apple Fool, 493. 
 
 Apple Jelly, 502. 
 
 Apple Paste, 520. 
 
 Apple Souffle, 453. 
 
 Apples, Tapioca, 520. 
 
 Apples, Miroton of, 449 
 
 Apricot Sweetmeat, for Tarts, 433. 
 
 Apricot Tart, 428. 
 
 April, Fish in Season for, 150. 
 
 April, Fruits in Season for, 150. 
 
 April, Meats in Season for, 150. 
 
 April, Poultry and Game in Sea- 
 son for, 150. 
 
 April, Yegetables In Season for, 
 150. 
 
 Ardent Spirits in Sweden, 510. 
 
 Arrangement of Dinner, 96. 
 
 Arrow Root, 185, 527. 
 
 Arrowroot Jelly, 524. 
 
 Aromatic Vinegar, 549. 
 
 Art of Cookery, 124. 
 
 Articles for Breakfast, 532. 
 
 Articles in winter, additional, 532. 
 
 Articles of Silver required for the 
 Table, 24. 
 
 Artificial Coral Branches for Grot- 
 toes, 577. 
 
 Articles in Season for each Month, 
 149. 
 
 Artichokes, 899, 883. 
 
 Artichokes, Jerusalem, 884 
 
 Asparagus, 880. 
 
 Asparagus Loaves, 381. 
 
 Asparagus Forced, 881. 
 
 Asparagus Peas, 381. 
 
 Asparagus, Garniture for Ome- 
 lettes, 464 
 
 Aspic Jelly, 354 
 
 Asses Milk, 520. 
 
 Asses Milk, Artificial, 520. 
 
 August, Fish in Season for, 150. 
 
 August, Fruits in Season for, 151. 
 
 August, Meats in Season for, 151. 
 
 August, Poultry and Game in Sea- 
 son for, 151. 
 
 August, Vegetables in Season for, 
 151. 
 
 Auld Man's Milk, 514 
 
 B 
 
 Baba, 486. 
 
 Bacon, Garniture for Omelette, 
 
 464. 
 
 Bacon, Broiled, 531. 
 Bacon, to boil, 334 
 Bacon, to broil, 834 
 Bacon, to make, 834 
 Bacon and Cabbage, 334 
 
 Bacon, to Cure, Cobbett's Receipt, 
 
 838. 
 Bacon, to cure for Larding and 
 
 Braising, 834, 346. 
 Bacon, Malihe's Method of Curing, 
 
 845. 
 
 Bacon, Black Pool Receipt for, 345. 
 Bacon, Wiltshire, 846. 
 Bain Marie, 83. 
 Baking, 14L 
 Baked Apples, 442. 
 Baked Beans, 384 
 Baked Calf s Head, 293. 
 Baked Calf s Heart, 28a 
 Baked Eggs, 462. 
 Baked Fagots, 327. 
 Baked Ham, 331. 
 Baked Herring, 193. 
 Baked Marrowbones, 273. 
 Baked Milk, 520. 
 Baked Pears, 502, 523. 
 Baked Pig's Head, 824 
 Baked Pike, 196. 
 Baked Salmon, 200. 
 Baked Shad, 195. 
 Baked Smelts, 197. 
 Balloons, from Turkey's Crops,57I 
 Balm Tea, 521. 
 Banbury Cake, 481. 
 Bandoline, 552. 
 Bandoline, Rose, 558. 
 Barberries, 132, 399. 
 Barley Water, 522. 
 Basil, 132. 
 Bath of Oil, 83. 
 
 Batter for Fruit Puddings, 449. 
 Bay, 134, 538. 
 Bay Salt, 129. 
 
 Beans, a la maitre d' Hotel, 884, 
 Beans, Baked, 884. 
 Beans, French, 884 
 Beans, French, Pickled, 895. 
 Beans, Lima, 884. 
 Beans, Stewed, 886. 
 Beans, White, Puree of, 886. 
 Beans, White Haricot, 387. 
 Bear's Grease, imitation, 545, 
 Bedroom Furniture, 22. 
 Bedsteads, 22, 
 Bedsteads, to clean, 89. 
 
588 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Beef, to choose, 56. 
 
 Beef, 249. 
 
 Beef Baked, 260. 
 
 Beef, Bath Receipt, 264. 
 
 Beef Bot'.illi, 263. 
 
 Beef Bouillon, 253. 
 
 Beef Brains a la Sauce Piquante, 
 
 260. 
 
 Beef Brains Fried, 260. 
 Beef, Brisket of, Stewed, -253, 263. 
 Beef, Brisket, to carve, 109. 
 Beef, Broiling, 254. 
 Beef Broth, 2T3. 
 Beef Ribs, to carve, 108. 
 Beef Round, to carve, 108. 
 Beef a la Houssard, 266. 
 Beef Sirloin, 109. 
 Boeuf a la Mode, 264. 
 Beef a la Mode, 264, 266, 267. 
 Beef a la Polonaise. 265. 
 Beef, Cold, 273. 
 Beef, to Corn, 842. 
 Beef Collops, 256, 269. 
 Beef, to collar Ribs of, 250. 
 Beef, Croquettes of, 271. 
 Beef, to collar, 852. 
 Beef, to collar, Economical way, 
 
 352. 
 
 Beef, Curried, 278. 
 Beef, Dutch way to salt, 842. 
 Beef, Dutch Hung, 259. 
 Beef Entrees, 263. 
 Beef Essence, 518. 
 Beef, Family Stew of, 257. 
 Beef, Fillet of, Roasted, 251. 
 Beef to taste like Hare, 251. 
 Beef, Fillets of, 265. 
 Beef Fillets, Braised, 265; 
 Beef, Fillet of, Saute, 270. 
 Beef, Fricasseed, 274. 
 Beef Fricandeau, 267, 274. 
 Beef Gravy, 220. 
 Beef Hashed, 256. 
 Beef Heart, 268. 
 Beef, Hunter's, 268. 
 Beef, Hune, 259, 343. 
 Beef, Jerked, 140. 
 Beef, Leg of, 253. 
 Beef, in a Marinade, 265. 
 Beef, Minced with Cucumbers,268. 
 Beef, Minced, 271. 
 Beef Olives, 258. 
 Beef Palates, 256, 278. 
 Beef, a Pickle for, 258, 854. 
 Beef, Pickle for, a la Garrick, 274. 
 Beef Potted, 267, 349. 
 Beef, Potted like Venison, 849, 
 
 351. 
 
 Beef, pressed, 274. 
 Beef, Rissoles, 275. 
 Beef, Round, to salt or corn, 854. 
 Beef, Rump of, 251. 
 Beef, Salt, remains of, 278. 
 Beef, to salt red, 342. 
 Beef, to Stew, 268, 252. 
 Beef Sausages, 267. 
 Beef, Sirloin, Roasted, 250. 
 Beef, Sirloin, to dress inside of 251. 
 Beef, Spiced, 342, 274, 258. 
 Beef Steaks, Broiled, 254. 
 Beefsteaks, a la Francaise, 255. 
 Beef Steaks, a la Parisienne, 255. 
 Beef Steak and Onions, 255. 
 Beef Steaks Rolled and Roasted, 
 
 255. 
 
 Beef Steaks, Stewed, 255. 
 Beef Stew, 252, 256. 
 Beef, Bump Steak Stewed, 259. 
 
 Beef, Rump Steak, Plain Broiled, 
 
 260. 
 
 Beef Steak, a la Francaise, 265. 
 Beef Tongne, to Cure, 257. 
 Beef Tongue, 262. 
 Beef Tongues, to dress, 257. 
 Beef Tongue, Larded, 257. 
 Beef Tongue, to stew, 262. 
 Beef Tongue, to prepare to eat 
 
 cold, 262. 
 
 Beef Tongue, to Roast, 262. 
 Beef Tongue, Fresh, 263. 
 Beef Tongue and Udder, Fresh, 
 
 263. 
 
 Boeuf Tremblant, 258. 
 Beef Tripe, 261. 
 Beef Tripe, Lyons Fashion, 269. 
 Beef Tea, Liebigs, 518. 
 Beer, Spruce, 510. 
 Beer, Ginger, 510. 
 Beets, 882, 387. 
 Beets, French way, 387. 
 Beignets, 459. 
 
 Benzoin, 538. J 
 
 Bergalot, 538. 
 Beverages, 510. 
 Beverages composed partly of 
 
 Fermented Liquors, 512. 
 Bills of Fare, 532, 533, 534. 
 Bills of Fare for Spring, 533. 
 Bills of Fare for Summer, 533. 
 Bills of Fare for Winter, 534. 
 Birds, Potted, 849. 
 Birds, to bone, 356. 
 Biscuits, Damascus, 467. 
 Biscuits, Milk, 467. 
 Biscuits, Cinnamon, 480. 
 Biscuits, 481. 
 Biscuit, glace, 490. 
 Bishop, 512. 
 
 Black Crape, to restore, 568. 
 Black Balls, 570. 
 Black Dye, 579. 
 Blackberry Jam, 528. 
 Blacking, 570. 
 
 Black Lace Veils, to clean, 575. 
 Black Pool Receipt for Bacon, 45. 
 Black Stains, to remove from the 
 
 Skin, 576. 
 Black Paper, for drawing patterns, 
 
 577. 
 
 Blanching, 142. 
 Blanc mange, 523, 487. 
 Blanc mange, Rice, 523. 
 Blue and Green Dye, 579. 
 Blue Ink, 571. 
 
 Boarding and Housekeeping, 21. 
 Boiling, Operation of, 81, 136. 
 Boil Bacon, 334. 
 Boil Cabbage, 388. 
 Boil Calf s Head, 282, 298. 
 Boil Chicken, 364, 
 Boil Cod, 190. 
 Boil Crabs, 207. 
 Boil Ducks, 369. 
 Boil Eggs, 460. 
 Boil Fillet of Veal, 277. 
 Boil Fowls, 361. 
 Boil Ham, 328. 829. 
 Boil Knuckle of Veal, 278. 
 Boil Leg of Lamb, 812. 
 Boil Leg of Lamb with Spinach, 
 
 813. 
 
 Boil Leg of Mutton, 298. 
 Boil Leg of Pork, 320. 
 Boil Lobster, 204. 
 Boil Mackerel, 194 
 Boil Mutton Ham, 880. 
 
 Boil Pickerel, 196. 
 
 Boil Pig's Head, 326. 
 
 Boil Pork, 822. 
 
 Boil Salmon, 200. 
 
 Boil Sheepshead, 191. 
 
 Boil Turbot, 199. 
 
 Boil Turkey, 857. 
 
 Bone a Quarter of Lamb, 814. 
 
 Bone Birds, 356. 
 
 Boning, 143. 
 
 Boorh;eve's Sweet Buttermilk. 
 
 519. 
 
 Books, to preserve, 577. 
 Boots, Waterproof, 577. 
 Boston Crearncakes, 484. 
 Bottles and Decanters, 60. 
 Bouquet de Caroline, 542. 
 Bouquet de Flora, 542. 
 Braising, 139. 
 
 Braise Breast of Lamb, 314. 
 Braise Chicken, 364. 
 Braise Fillet of Beef, 265. 
 Braise Fowls, 361. 
 Braise Ham, 332. 
 Braise Leg of Mutton, 298. 
 Braise Mutton Cutlets, 301. 
 Braise Neck of Veal, 279. 
 Braise Shoulder of Lamb, 812 814 
 Braise Turkey, 358. 
 Bran Tea, 559. 
 Brandy Mixture, 522. 
 Brass, to clean, 574. 
 Brass Ornaments, to preserve, 569. 
 Brawn, to choose, 57. 
 Brawn, 346. 
 
 Brawns, mock, 334, 846. 
 Brawn, to keep, Cambridge way, 
 
 Bread Crumbs, 873. 
 
 Bread, Fried, for Garnishing, 878. 
 
 Bread, to make, 464. 
 
 Bread, Brown or Dyspepsia, 465. 
 
 Bread, Rye and Indian, 465. 
 
 Bread, to make without yeast, 465. 
 
 Bread, Rice, 466. 
 
 Bread, Almond, 467. 
 
 Bread, Apple, 469. 
 
 Bread, Diet, 480. 
 
 Bread, French, 482. 
 
 Bread and Milk, 528. 
 
 Breakfast Articles, 532. 
 
 Breakfast, Dishes for, 529. 
 
 Breakfasts, Serving of, 94. 
 
 Brick Hearth, to black, 574. 
 
 Bride Cake, 476. 
 
 Brioche Paste, 409. 
 
 Brioche Rolls, 472. 
 
 Broccoli and Battered Eggs, 888. 
 
 Broiled Chicken, for Breakfast, 
 
 530. 
 
 Brisket of Beef, 253, 283. 
 Broiling, 140. 
 Broil Beef, 254. 
 Broil Beef Steaks, 254. 
 Broil Beef Steaks, a la Francaise. 
 
 255. 
 Broil Beefsteaks, a la Parisienne, 
 
 Broil Bones, 269. 
 Broil Chicken, 530. 
 Broil Fowls, 862. 
 Broil Mackerel, 194. 
 Broil Mushrooms, 388. 
 Broil Mutton Chops, 300. 
 Broil Mutton Kidneys, 805. 
 Broil Oysters, 209. 
 Broil Partridges, 871. 
 Broil Pigeons, 864. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 589 
 
 Broil Rump Steak, 260. 
 
 Broil Salmon, 201. 
 
 Broil Shad, 195. 
 
 Broil Smelts, 19T. 
 
 Broth, Calf or Lamb's Feet, 518. 
 
 Broth, Chicken, 518. 
 
 Broth, that will keep, 518. 
 
 Broth, quick made, 518. 
 
 Brown Coloring for made dishes, 
 
 249. 
 
 Brown thickening, 228. 
 Bruise or Sprain, 565. 
 Brushes, 26. 
 Brushes, to clean, 57T. 
 Bubble and Squeak, 260, 269, 
 Buckwheat Cakes, 468. 
 Buckskin Gloves, to clean, 5T1. 
 Buns, 471. 
 
 Burns, to relieve, 565. 
 Butter, to clarify, 347, 473. 
 Butter, Pickle for, 472. 
 Butter, to cure in the best way, 
 
 473. 
 
 Butter, salt, to freshen, 473. 
 Butter, to make, 473. 
 Butter, to preserve for winter 
 
 use, 473. 
 Butternuts, Pickled, 399. 
 
 Cabbage, to boil, 388. 
 
 Cabbage, Purple, to pickle, 396. 
 
 Cabbage, Eed, to pickle, 396. 
 
 Cabbage, White, to piakle, 396. 
 
 Cakes, 473. 
 
 Cake, Almond, 477. 
 
 Cake, Banbury, 481. 
 
 Cake, Boston Cream, 484. 
 
 Cake, Bride, 476. 
 
 Cake, Chocolate, 480. 
 
 Cake, Cider, 479. 
 
 Cake, Cocoanut, 477. 
 
 Cake, Cornstarch, 479. 
 
 Cake, Currant, 480. 
 
 Cake, Eletherian Pineapple, 485. 
 
 Cakes, Frosting, 475. 
 
 Cake, German Sugar, 476. 
 
 Cake, Gold and Silver, 481. 
 
 Cake, Honey, 477, 
 
 Cake, Housewife's Christmas, 479. 
 
 Cakes, Icing for, 480. 
 
 Cake, Indian Corn, 478. 
 
 Cake, Jelly, 480. 
 
 Cake, Lady, 480. 
 
 Cake, Lemon, 480. 
 
 Cake, Love, Bola d' Amour, 485. 
 
 Cake, New England Wedding, 475. 
 
 Cake, New York Cup, 478. 
 
 Cake, Nourmahal, 480. 
 
 Cake, Plain Fruit. 477. 
 
 Cake, Plum, 475. 
 
 Cake, Pound, 478. 
 
 Cake, Queen, 477. 
 
 Cake, Queen Victoria's, 485. 
 
 Cake, Railroad, 479. 
 
 Cake, Rice, 485. 
 
 Cake, Savoy. 477. 
 
 Cake, Seed, 480. 
 
 Cake, Short and Strawberry, 479. 
 
 Cake, Small Plum, 476. 
 
 Cake, Soyer's St. James, 478. 
 
 Cake, Soyer's Turban, 479. 
 
 Cake, Sponge, 477. 
 
 Cake, Sugar, 479. 
 
 Cake, Tipsy, 483. 
 
 Cake, Washington, 478. 
 
 Cakes, for Children, 527. 
 
 Calf's Brains, 289. 
 
 Calf's Brains. Croquettes of, 289. 
 
 Calf's Ears, Stuffed, 288. 
 
 Calf's Feet, 288. 
 
 Calf's Foot Jelly, 491, 492. 
 
 Calf's Foot Pudding, 524. 
 
 Calf's Head, 292. 
 
 Calf's Head Baked, 293. 
 
 Calf's Head Boiled, 282, 293. 
 
 Calf's Head Cheese, 286. 
 
 Calf 's Head, to collar, 852. 
 
 Calf 'a Head Curry, 283. 
 
 Calf's Head Hashed, 293. 
 
 Calf's Head Ragout, 282. 
 
 Calf's Head a la Tortue, 293. 
 
 Calf's Heart, 290. 
 
 Calf's Heart, Baked 288. 
 
 Calf's Liver, 285. 
 
 Calf's Liver, Fried, 286. 
 
 Calf's Liver, Stewed, 285. 
 
 Calf's Liver and Lights, 290. 
 
 Camomile Tea, 522. 
 
 Camphor Balls, 548. 
 
 Camphor Ice, 547. 
 
 Camphor Cake, 565. 
 
 Camphor Cerate, 548. "; 
 
 Candy Fruit, 509. 
 
 Candies, Home made, 576. 
 
 Cane Chair Bottoms, to clean, 578. 
 
 Capillaire, 512. 
 
 Capon, 360. 
 
 Caramel, 127. 
 
 Care of the Sick, 50. 
 
 Carpets, 22. 
 
 Carpet, to clean, 570. 
 
 Carrots, 382. 
 
 Carving, 107. 
 
 Carving, Beef, Brisket of, 109. 
 
 Carving, Beef, Round of, 108. 
 
 Carving, Beef, Ribs of, 108. 
 
 Carving, Beef. Sirloin of, 109. 
 
 Carving, Boiled or Roast Turkey, 
 
 113. 
 
 Carving, Breast of Veal, 109. 
 Carving, Fillet of Veal, 109. 
 Carving, Fowl, Roast and Boiled, 
 
 114. 
 Carving, Forequarter of Lamb, 
 
 112. 
 
 Carving, Ham, 112. 
 Carving, Haunch of Mutton, 112. 
 Carving, Haunch of Venison, 112. 
 Carving, Knuckle of Veal, 109. 
 Carving, Leg of Mutton, 110. 
 Carving, Leg of Pork, 112. 
 Carving, Loin of Mutton, 111. 
 Carving, Loin of Veal, 109. 
 Carving, Neck of Mutton, 111. 
 Carving, Neck of Veal, 109. 
 Carving, Neck of Venison, 112. 
 Carving, Pheasant, 115. 
 Carving, Pigeons, Il6. 
 Carving, Rabbit, 113. 
 Carving, Roast Goose 115. 
 Carving, Roast Pig, 113. 
 Carving, Saddle of Mutton, 111. 
 Carving, Scrag of Mutton, 111. 
 Carving, Shoulder of Mutton, 110. 
 Carving, Shoulder of Veal, 110. 
 Carving, Tongue, 112. 
 Carving, Wild Birds, 115. 
 Casserole, 127. 
 Cassolettes, 551. 
 Casks, to sweeten, 569. 
 Cassia, 181. 
 Cauliflower, 382. 
 Cauliflower Pickle, 396. 
 
 Caudle, 519. 
 
 Caudle, Flour, 519. 
 
 Caudle, York, 519. 
 
 Cayenne Pepper, 406. 
 
 Cayenne, 180. 
 
 Celery, 132. 
 
 Celery, to stew, 383. 
 
 Celery, Pickled, 396. 
 
 Cement, for Corked Bottles, 578. 
 
 Cement of Lime, 568. 
 
 Cement, Lime and Egg, 71. 
 
 Cement, Mastic, 72 
 
 Cement, Red, 71. 
 
 Cements, Use of, 69. 
 
 Cements, Waterproof, 71. 
 
 Cera, Fortifant, 565. 
 
 Cervelle de Veau au Marinade, 
 
 289. 
 Cervelle de Veau a la Maitre d' 
 
 Hotel, 291. 
 
 Charcoal, Danger of, 87. 
 Charcoal, Deaths by, 88. 
 Chartreuse of Apples and Rico, 
 
 449. 
 
 Charlotte Russe, 488. 
 Charlotte, Strawberry, 489. 
 Champagne, Pink, 517. 
 Champagne, Grape, to equal 
 
 Foreign, 517. 
 Cheese, 454. 
 Cheese, to make, 454. 
 Cheese, at Dinner, 100. 
 Cheese, Cream, 454. 
 Cheese, Cream, Plain Family way, 
 
 456. 
 
 Cheese, Cottage, 454. 
 Cheese, Eggs and, 455. 
 Cheese, for Fondeau, 455. 
 Cheese, Italian, 525. 
 Cheese, a L' Italienne, 455. 
 Cheese, Puffs, 454. 
 Cheese, Sage, 454. 
 Cheese, Souffle, 455. 
 Cheese, Stewed, 456. 
 Cheese, Potato, 435. 
 Cheese, Potted, 456. 
 Cheese, Pudding, 456. 
 Cheesecakes, 434, 485. 
 Cheesecakes, Almond, 434, 486. 
 Cheesecakes, Apple, 486. 
 Cheesecakes, Bread, 486. 
 Cheesecakes, Citron, 486. 
 Cheesecakes, Lemon, 434, 486. 
 Cheesecakes, Miss Bratty's, 434. 
 Cheesecakes, Orange, 434. 
 Cheesecakes, Soyer's, 435. 
 Cheesecake, Stock, 435. 
 Cherries, to dry, 503. 
 Cherry Bounce, 514. 
 Chetney, 135. 
 
 Chicken and Ham Potted, 349. 
 Chicken Salad, 390. 
 Chicken Jelly, 520. 
 Chickens, Boiled, 364. 
 Chickens, Braised, 864. 
 Chickens, Curried, 364, 367. 
 Chickens, Fried, a la Malabaz 
 
 864. 
 
 Chickens, Pulled, 364. 
 Chickenpox, 562. 
 Chilblains, 563. 
 Children, Cooking for, 526. 
 Children's Diet for the day, 529. 
 Children, Management of, 48. 
 Children, Meats for, 529. 
 Children, Training of, 519. 
 China, 24. 
 Chlorine, Mode of Liberating, 90 
 
590 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Chocolate, 49T. 
 
 Chocolate, Cake, 480. 
 
 Chocolate Drops, 498. 
 
 Chopping, 73. 
 
 Cinnamon, 131. 
 
 Citron, 542. 
 
 Citronella, 542. 
 
 Clarify Meat Jelly, 858. 
 
 Clan-, 132. 
 
 Cleanliness, Importance of, 47. 
 
 Cleaning Bottles, 60. 
 
 Clean Brushes, 577. 
 
 Clean Decanters, 578. 
 
 Clean Feather Beds, 578. 
 
 Clean Floors, 88. 
 
 Clean' Freestone, 574. 
 
 Clean German Silver, 570. 
 
 Clean Gloves, 572. 
 
 Clean Ironwork, 88. 
 
 Clean Japanned Goods, 89. 
 
 Clean Japanned Waiters, 574. 
 
 Clean Kettles and Saucepans, 576. 
 
 Clean Kid Gloves, 569. 
 
 Clean Knives, 89. 
 
 Clean Marble, 570. 
 
 Clean Mattresses, 578. 
 
 Clean Paint, 89. 
 
 Clean Papered Walls, 578. 
 
 Clean Silk, 570. 
 
 Clean Silver, 572. 
 
 Clean Steel Forks, 89. 
 
 Clean Tin Covers, 571. 
 
 Clean Wainscots, 576. 
 
 Cloth, to take Spots out of, 569. 
 
 Cloves, 130, 542. 
 
 Clouted Cream, 488. 
 
 Clothesballs, 575. 
 
 Cocoamit Cake, 477. 
 
 Cocoa, 497, 522. 
 
 Cocoa Shells or Nibs, 497. 
 
 Coffee, 494, 495. 
 
 Coffee, to roast, 495. 
 
 Coffeemaker, Patent, 495. 
 
 Cold Cream, Almond, 547. 
 
 Cold Cream, Eose, 547. 
 
 Cold Cream, Violet, 547. 
 
 Ccelus Apicius, 125. 
 
 Cold Cream, 549. 
 
 Collar Breast of Mutton, 358. 
 
 Collar Breast of Veal, 353. 
 
 Collar Eels, 351. 
 
 Collar Fowls, 362. 
 
 Collar Ox Cheek, 853. 
 
 Collar a Pig, 353. 
 
 Collar Pig's Head, 324, 353. 
 
 Collar Ribs of Beef, 250. 
 
 Collar Salmon, 202. 
 
 Collodion, 565. 
 
 Collodion, Blistering, 565. 
 
 Collodion, Toothache, 565. 
 
 Coloring for Jellies, 502. 
 
 Colored Things, to wash, 571. 
 
 Color of Dresses, to preserve, 
 
 572. 
 
 Compotes of Fruit, 505. 
 Compound Oders, 542. 
 Condiments, 129. 
 Consideration of Dinner, 86. 
 Consomme, 127. 
 Contrivance for Filtering, 574. 
 Composition for the Skin, 548. 
 Cooking, French. 139. 
 Cookery for the Sick, 51T. 
 Cooking Stoves, 85. 
 Cookery, Art of, 124. 
 Cookery, Rudiments o 186. 
 Coral Branches, 577. 
 Corking, 60. 
 
 Corn, Green, Fritters, 885. 
 
 Corn, Creen, Omelet, 885. 
 
 Corn, Green, Pudding, 385. 
 
 Corn, Sweet, 885. 
 
 Cottage Cheese, 454 
 
 Cottager's Stove, 85. 
 
 Country Syllabub, 491. 
 
 Cosmetic Gloves, 546. 
 
 Cough, 564. 
 
 Coulis, 127. 
 
 Court Nosegay, 542. 
 
 Court Plaster, 565. 
 
 Cow Heels, 263. 
 
 Cow Heels, to fry, 267, 264. 
 
 Cow Heels to pot, 264 
 
 Crabs, 206. 
 
 Crabs, Boiled, 207. 
 
 Crabs, Minced, 208. 
 
 Craks, Soft Shelled, 208. 
 
 Crab Soup, 207. 
 
 Crabs, Stewed, 207. 
 
 Cracknels, 482. 
 
 Cracknels, Isle of Wight, 482. 
 
 Cranberries, to prepare for Tarts, 
 
 432. 
 
 Cranberry Sauce, 507. 
 Crayfish Soup, 207. 
 Crayfish Butter, 208. 
 Crayfish Stewed, 207. 
 Cream of Tartar Water, 523. 
 Cream Champagne, 487. 
 Cream Cheese, 454. 
 Cream, Clouted, 488. 
 Cream, Italian, 488. 
 Crema, Leche, 488. 
 Cream, Mock, 490. 
 Creme Frites aux Amandes, 458. 
 Cr6pes, 457. 
 
 Crickets, to destroy, 567. 
 Croquettes, 127. 
 Croup, 562. 
 Croustades, 127. 
 Crumpets, 468. 
 Cullis, 275. 
 Cup Cake, 478. 
 
 Cure of Intemperate Habits, 566. 
 Cure Bacon, Cobbett's Receipt, 
 
 sas. 
 
 Cure Bacon for Larding and Brais- 
 ing, 384, 846. 
 
 Cure Bacon, Maline's Method, 
 345. 
 
 Cure Beef, Corned, 342. 
 
 Cure Beef Tongue, 257. 
 
 Cure Hams, 329, 331, 343, 344. 
 
 Cure Hog's Cheeks, 846. 
 
 Cure Mutton Ham, 345, 
 
 Cure Tongues, 343. 
 
 Curing, 341. 
 
 Curling Hair Fluid, 553. 
 
 Currants, Ripe, 528. 
 
 Currant Jelly, 502. 
 
 Curry, Calf s Head, 283. 
 
 Curry, Chicken, 364, 367. 
 
 Curry, Custard, 525. 
 
 Curry, Kitchener's, 221. 
 
 Curry, Plain, 221. 
 
 Curry Powders, 221. 
 
 Curry Powder, Delhi, 221. 
 
 Curry, Soyer's, 236. 
 
 Custard, Arrowroot, 487. 
 
 Custard, Boiled, 487. 
 
 Custard, Coffee, 487. 
 
 Custard, Cocoanut, 431. 
 
 Custard, Cream of Chocolate, 487. 
 
 Custard, French Mode, 487. 
 
 Culinary Utensils, 116. 
 
 Curtains, 22. 
 
 Cucumbers, to pickle, 894 
 Cut, to heal, 565. 
 Cutlets, a la Victime, 337. 
 Cutlery, 24 r 
 Cutting Glass, 63. 
 
 Daily Routine of Work, 42. 
 Dandelion and Parsley Tea, 523. 
 Doubing, 142. 
 
 December, Fish in Season for, 152. 
 December, Fruits in Season for. 
 
 152. 
 December, Meats in Season for, 
 
 152. 
 December, Poultry and Game in 
 
 Season for, 152. 
 December, Vegetables in Season 
 
 for, 152. 
 
 Deaths by Burning Charcoal, 88. 
 Decanters, to clean, 578. 
 Decanting Liquids, 65. 
 Dejeuners a la Fourchettes, 94 
 Depilatories, 555. 
 Dessert, 41. 
 Desserts, 102. 
 Detergent Gargle, 557. 
 Development of the Lungs, 559. 
 Devils of Biscuits, 531. 
 Devil, Dry, 531. 
 Devilled Game, 531. 
 Devil, Wet, 531, 
 Devonshire Junket, 491r 
 Diet, Children's for the Day, 529. 
 Diet Bread, 480. 
 Digester, Saucepan, 123. 
 Dinners, Arrangement of, 96. 
 Dinner, Consideration of, 36. 
 Dinner Entrees, 100. 
 Direction of the Table, 37. 
 Disinfecting, 89. 
 Distillation, 92. 
 Distilling Spirits, 510. 
 Domestic Education <& Thoughts 
 on 16. 
 
 Domestic Affairs, Skill in, re- 
 quisite, 15. 
 
 Domestic Education, should 
 be complete, 17. 
 
 Duties to Children, 46. 
 
 Early Rising, an advantage, 
 42. 
 
 Household Knowledge essen- 
 tial to a Lady, 42. 
 
 Influence of Women, 17. 
 
 Late Hours destructive to 
 Health, 49. 
 
 Plan and Order necessary, 44 
 
 Province of Woman, ]8. 
 
 Rights and " Mission " of Wo- 
 man, 16. 
 
 Domestic Manipulation, 59, 
 Doomsday Book, 125. 
 Doughnuts, 483. 
 Draught for Palpitation of the 
 
 Heart, 557. 
 Draught for Hysteric Patients, 
 
 559. 
 
 Drawing-Room Furniture, 22. 
 Dredgings, 139. 
 
 Dresses, Color of, to preserve, 572. 
 Dripping, 139. 
 Dried Salmon, 530. 
 Drunkenness in France, 510. 
 Drying Bottles, &c., 60. 
 Dry Measures. 124 
 
INDEX. 
 
 591 
 
 Ducks, boiled, 369. 
 
 Ducks. Canvas-back, 370. 
 
 Ducks, roasted, 369. 
 
 Ducks, Stewed with Claret, 869. 
 
 Ducks and Peas, Stewed, 370. 
 
 Duckling with Turnips, 370. 
 
 Ducks, Wild, or Teal, 370. 
 
 Dumpokht, 367. 
 
 Duties of each Day, 44 
 
 Duties of the Mistress, 31. 
 
 Dwelling House, the, 19. 
 
 Dye, Black, 579. 
 
 Dye, Blue and Green. 579. 
 
 Dyes, Common Eeceipts for, 
 
 579. 
 
 Dye, Red, 580. 
 Dye, Slate colored, 531. 
 Dye, Yellow, 580. 
 
 E 
 
 Eau de Bouquet de Flore, 544 
 
 Eau de Chypre, 543, 544. 
 
 Eau de Cologne, 544. 
 
 Eau d' Ambre Eoyale, 544. 
 
 Eau d 1 Elegance, 544. 
 
 Eau Jaune a 1' Amaryllis, 544 
 
 Eau de Javelle, 555. 
 
 Eau de Miel, 544. 
 
 Eau de vie Lavande, 543. 
 
 Earache. 564. 
 
 Economy of Heat, 84 
 
 Eels a la Tartare, 203. 
 
 Eels, bread crumbed, 203. 
 
 Eels, collared, 202. 
 
 Eels, fried, 203. 
 
 Eel Pie, 203. 
 
 Eels, spitchcocked, 208. 
 
 Eels, stewed, 203. 
 
 Eggs, 459. 
 
 Eggs, au Beurre, 532. 
 
 Egg Biscuit, 469. 
 
 Eggs and Cheese, 555. 
 
 Eggs, to boil, 460. 
 
 Eggs with burnt butter, 463. 
 
 Eggs, fried, 462. 
 
 Egg Flip, 513. 
 
 Egg Hot, 513. 
 
 Eggs, for Turtle, 247. 
 
 Eggs in cases, 463. 
 
 Eggs, to keep, 578. 
 
 Eggs, to keep for winter, 459. 
 
 Eggnogg, 514. 
 
 Egg Plant, 381. 
 
 Eggs, to poach, 460. 
 
 Eggs, plain baked, 462. 
 
 Eggs, pretty dish of, 463. 
 
 Eggs, Eandalled, 462. 
 
 Egg Sauce, 215. 
 
 Egg scrambled, 532. 
 
 Egg Snow, 463. 
 
 Eggs and Vegetables, 463. 
 
 Elder Flower Ointment, 562. 
 
 Elder Flower Tea, 522. 
 
 Electuary for Scorbutic Eruptions, 
 
 Empress Eugenie's Nosegay, 548. 
 
 Entrees at Dinner, 100. 
 
 Ervsipelas. 558. 
 
 Essence of White Lilac, 537. 
 
 Essence of Beef, 518. 
 
 Essentia Odorifera, 543. 
 
 Evening Parties, 41. 
 
 Extract d' Ambre, 539. 
 
 Eyes, Inflammation of, to relieve, 
 
 Family Medical Guide, 556. 
 
 Fancy Pastry, 426. 
 
 Farces and Stuffings, 248. 
 
 Farce Cnite, 245. 
 
 Farce, Harn and Veal, 245. 
 
 Farce of Veal or Fowl, 247. 
 
 Farce, Panada, 243. 
 
 Farce, Panada, for Fish, &c., 244 
 
 Farce, Quenelle, 244 
 
 Farce, Udder, 244. 
 
 Fawn or Kid, to dress, 375. 
 
 Featherbeds, to clean, 578. 
 
 February, Fish in Season for, 149. 
 
 February, Fruits in Season for, 
 
 149. 
 February, Meats in Season for, 
 
 149. 
 February, Poultry and Game in 
 
 Season for, 149. 
 February, Vegetables in Season 
 
 for, 149. 
 
 Feeding Children, 47. 
 Fermenting, 91. 
 Fever and Ague, 558. 
 Fever Draught, 559. 
 Filtering contrivance, 574. 
 Filtering Liquids, 68. 
 First Course at Dinner, 99. 
 First Watch Stew, 276. 
 Fish, for April, May, June, July, 
 
 and August, 150. 
 Fish Cake, 191. 
 Fish, Carp, stewed, 196. 
 Fish, Casserole, 211. 
 Fish, to choose, 59. 
 Fish, Cod, boiled, 190. 
 Fish, Cod, with Oyster Sauce, 190. 
 Fish, Cod, au Gratin, 190. 
 Fish, Cod Omelette, 191. 
 Fish, Cod Sounds, Ragout of, 190. 
 Fish, Cod, slices of, 191. 
 Fish, Cold, to dress, 211. 
 Fish Cutlets, 213. 
 Fish for December, 152. 
 Fish, Forcemeat, 245. 
 Fish, Fricandelles of, 213. 
 Fish, Haddock, 192. 
 Fish, Haddock, dried, 192. 
 Fish, Haddock, dressed, 192. 
 Fish, Haddock, baked, 192. 
 Fish, Halibut, 191. 
 Fish, Halibut, stewed, 191. 
 Fish, Halibut, colloped, 192. 
 Fish, Halibut a la Creme, 192. 
 Fish, Herrings, 193. 
 Fish, Herrings, fresh, baked, 193. 
 Fish, Herrings, potted, 193. 
 Fish for January, February, and 
 
 March, 149. 
 
 Fish, Mackerel, stewed, 193. 
 Fish, Mackerel, boiled, 194 
 Fish. Mackerel, broiled, 194 
 Fish with Marinade, 189. 
 Fish, Matelote of, 213. 
 Fish, Pickerel, boiled, 196. 
 Fish, Pike, roasted, 195. 
 Fish, Pike, baked, 196. 
 Fish, Salmon, crimped a la Creme, 
 
 199. 
 
 Fish, Salmon, au naturel, 200. 
 Fish, Salmon, baked, 200. 
 Fish, Salmon, boiled, 200. 
 Fish, Salmon, broiled, 201. 
 Fish, Salmon, collared, 202. 
 Fish, Salmon, dried, 201. 
 Fish Pat6, 212. 
 
 Fish, Pickled, 201. 
 Fish, Potted, 202. 
 Fish, Ragout of, 214. 
 Fish, to serve, 107. 
 Fish, Shad, roasted, 194 
 Fish, Shad, preserved, 195. 
 Fish, Shad, broiled, 195. 
 Fish, Shad, baked, 195. 
 Fish for September, October, No- 
 vember, 151. 
 
 Fish, Sheepshead, boiled, 191. 
 Fish, Shrimps, 197. 
 Fish, Smelts, fried, 196. 
 Fish, Smelts, broiled, 197. 
 Fish, Smelts, baked, 197. 
 Fish, Soles, fried, 196. 
 Fish, Stewed, Hebrew fashion, 
 
 214 
 
 Fish, Sturgeon Cutlets, 197. 
 Fish, Sturgeon, stewed, 197. 
 Fish, Sturgeon, cheaply cooked, 
 
 197. 
 
 Fish, Trout, roasted, 195. 
 Fish, Trout, fried, 195. 
 Fish, Trout, in the foreign mode, 
 
 198. 
 
 Fish, Trout, & la Genevoise, 198. 
 Fish, Trout, a laPrincesse Royale, 
 
 198. 
 Fish, Trout, a la Twickenham, 
 
 198. 
 
 Fish, Trout, stewed, 199. 
 Fish, Turbot, boiled, 199. 
 Fish, Turbot, a la Creme, 199. 
 Fish, Vol-au-vent of, 214 
 Flannel Cakes, 469. 
 Flax Seed Lemonade, 522. 
 Fleur d' Italie, 543. 
 Floating Island, 489. 
 Floors, to clean, 88. 
 Fondeaux, 455. 
 Food, Adulteration of, 78. 
 Food and Cookery for Children, 
 
 526. 
 
 Forcemeat, 244, 245. 
 Forcemeat, another, 244. 
 Forcemeats, &c., 248. 
 Forcemeat Balls for Soup Maigre, 
 
 246. 
 
 Forcemeat Ingredients, 248. 
 Forcemeat for Hare or any thing 
 
 in imitation of it, 245. 
 Forcemeat, Oyster, 246. 
 Forcemeat for Turtle, 246. 
 Forcemeat, 340. 
 Forcemeat to make Quenelles of, 
 
 841. 
 
 Forcemeat, Panada for, 341. 
 Forcemeat Stuffing for Veal, 341. 
 Forcemeat Stuffing for Hare or 
 
 Turkey, 341. 
 
 Foreign Terms, glossary of, 126. 
 Fowls, & la Bechamel, 366. 
 Fowls, boiled or roast, to carva 
 
 114 
 
 Fowls, boiled, 361. 
 Fowls, braised, 861. 
 Fowls, broiled, 862. 
 Fowls, forced, 360. 
 Fowls, fried, 362. 
 Fowls, fricassee of, 882. 
 Fowls, Guinea, 366. 
 Fowl, hashed, 361. 
 Fowl, Indian pilau of, 366. 
 Fowls, Pea, 366. 
 Fowls, Pilau of, 362. 
 Fowls, Poele, to boil in, 860. 
 Fowls, a la Provengale, 360. 
 
592 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Fowls, Poele, for, 863. 
 
 Fowls, Roast, 861. 
 
 Fowls, Eissoles of, 363. 
 
 Frangipane, 482. 
 
 Freestone, to clean, 574. 
 
 French Bread, 482. 
 
 French Beans, pickled, 396. 
 
 French Cooking, 189. 
 
 French Pap, 527. 
 
 Fricandelles of Fish, 213 
 
 Fritadella, 336. 
 
 Fritters, 458. 
 
 Fritters, Plain, 458. 
 
 Fritters, Apple, 458. 
 
 Fritters, French, 458. 
 
 Fritters, Potato, 458. 
 
 Fritters, Curd, 459. 
 
 Fritters, Orange and Sweetmeat, 
 459. 
 
 Frontignac, 516. 
 
 Frosted Fruit, 502. 
 
 Frosting Cakes, 475. 
 
 Frozen Pudding, 493. 
 
 Fruit Cake, 477. 
 
 Fruits for April, May, June, July, 
 150. 
 
 Fruits for August, September, Oc- 
 tober, November, 151. 
 
 Fruits to candy, 509. 
 
 Fruits for December, 152. 
 
 Fruits for January, February, 
 March, 149. 
 
 Fruits, to keep fresh, 578. 
 
 Fruit for Children, 528. 
 
 Frying, 141. 
 
 Fry Calf s Liver, 286. 
 
 Fry Chickens a la Malabar, 364. 
 
 Fry Cowheels, 264, 267. 
 
 Fry Eggs, 462. 
 
 Fry Fowls, 362. 
 
 Fry Ham and Eggs, 330. 
 
 Fry Mutton Chops, 300. 
 
 Fry Pig's Feet and Ears, 327. 
 
 Fry Potatoes, 377. 
 
 Fry Ramequins, 455. 
 
 Fry Smelts, 196. 
 
 Fry Soles, 196. 
 
 Fry Sweetbreads, 290. 
 
 Fry Trout, 198. 
 
 Fry Veal, Liver, and Bacon, 289. 
 
 Fry Venison, 374. 
 
 Fumigating Paper, 558. 
 
 Furnishing a House, 21. 
 
 Furniture, Bedroom, 22. 
 
 Furniture, Drawing-room, 22. 
 
 Furniture, Kitchen, 23. 
 
 Furniture, Nursery, 46. 
 
 Galette, 482. 
 
 Game, all kinds of potted, 350. 
 
 Game Course, 100. 
 
 Gants Cosmetiques au Bouquet, 
 
 546. 
 
 Garlic, Pickle, 394 
 Garnishes, 248. 
 Gas, Heating vessels by, 86. 
 Gauffres, 429. 
 
 German Silver, to clean, 570. 
 Geranium, 538. 
 Gherkins and Kidney Beans, to 
 
 pickle, 399. 
 Gherkins, 132. 
 
 Gigot de Mouton sacrifie, 525. 
 Ginger, 130. 
 Gingerbread, 482. 
 
 Gingerbread, Hard, 488. 
 
 Gingerbread, Soft, 482. 
 
 Gingernuts, 483. 
 
 Ginger Wafers, 478. 
 
 Glaize, 524. 
 
 Glasse, Mrs., Recipe, 18. 
 
 Glass, 24. 
 
 Glass Cutting, 63. 
 
 Glass Grinding, 63. 
 
 Glass Vessels, labelling of, 65. 
 
 Glass, Writing on, 63. 
 
 Glaze, 128. 
 
 Glazing, 140, 142. 
 
 Glazing for Tarts, 426. 
 
 Glossary of Foreign terms in 
 
 cookery, 126. 
 Gloves, to clean, 569, 571. 
 Gloves, Cosmetic, 541, 546. 
 Glue, 70. 
 Godiveaux, 129. 
 Glycerine Balsam, 549. 
 Gooseberry Fool, 492. 
 Goose, Roasted, 368. 
 Goose, to carve, 115. 
 Goose, Marbled, 368. 
 Goose, Preserved, 368. 
 Goulard Lotion, 559. 
 Grapes, to pickle, 899. 
 Grease, to extract from silk, 570. 
 Grease Spots, to take out, 570. 
 Green Peas, 880. 
 Green Corn Fritters, 385. 
 Green Corn Omelet, 885. 
 Green Corn Pudding, 385. 
 Griddle Cakes, Indian, 469. 
 Grillades, 529. 
 Grinding Glass, 63. 
 Ground Rice Milk, 522. 
 Ground Rice Paste, 524. 
 Ground Rice Pudding, 524. 
 Grouse, 872. 
 Guards' Bouquet, 543. 
 Gumbo, 386. 
 
 Hair Curling Fluid, 553. 
 
 Hair Dyes, 554. 
 
 Hair Wash, 553. 
 
 Hair Water, 552. 
 
 Hams, 329. 
 
 Ham, to bake, 381. 
 
 Hams, boiled, 328. 
 
 Hams, to boil, 329. 
 
 Ham, to boil in a superior way, 828. 
 
 Ham, to braise, 832. 
 
 Ham, to braise in a French fash- 
 ion, 332. 
 
 Ham Cake, 351. 
 
 Ham, to carve, 112. 
 
 Ham, cold, Soyer's, 355. 
 
 Ham, to cook, 828. 
 
 Hams, to cure, 329, 831, 343, 844, 
 
 Ham and Eggs, fried, 330. 
 
 Ham, fried with Poached Eggs, 
 330. 
 
 Ham, Fitzimmon Receipt for cur- 
 ing, 344. 
 
 Ham Gravy, 830. 
 
 Ham,' Goose, 345. 
 
 Hams, to keep, 56. 
 
 Ham, Mutton, to boil, 830. 
 
 Ham, Mutton, to cure, 845. 
 
 Ham, to make superior to West- 
 phalia, 344. 
 
 Ham, Practical Housewife's 
 Christmas, 829. 
 
 Ham, Rashers or Slices, 883. 
 Ham, to roast, 330. 
 Ham, Westphalia, 344. 
 Harlequinade in Cookery, 126. 
 Hands, to whiten, 549. 
 Harnessmaker's Jet, 573. 
 Hare, Jugged, 373. 
 Hare, Potted, 349. 
 Hare, Roasted, 372. 
 Haricot Roots, 387. 
 Harness, to color, 569. 
 Hashballs, 257. 
 Hasty Pudding, 442. 
 Heartburn, Mixture for, 561. 
 Heating by Gas, 86. 
 Heat, Economy of, 84. 
 Heliotrope, 538. 
 Heliotrope, Extract of, 539. 
 Hedgehog, 445. 
 Herrings, to pickle, 354. 
 Hints and Maxims, 143. 
 Hog's Cheeks, to cure, 346. 
 Hog's Lard, 328. 
 Hominy, 453. 
 
 Home and Housekeeping, 16. 
 Absolute Rule of a Mistress. 
 
 31. 
 Care in Accounts necessary 
 
 83. 
 
 Care of the Sick, 50. 
 Choice and Arrangement of 
 
 Dinner Company, 88. 
 Duties of each day, 42. 
 Feeding Children, 47. 
 Fundamental Principles, 33. 
 Good Wages the best policy, 
 
 32. 
 Home, little Attachment ol 
 
 Americans to, 15. 
 Home Duties, little thought 
 of in Female Education, 
 15. 
 Home, ruled by a Sensible 
 
 Woman, 16. 
 Home, a place of Refuge and 
 
 Rest, 16. 
 Housewifery may be Ultra, 
 
 16. 
 
 Importance of Cleanliness, 52. 
 Importance of Health, 34. 
 Important Responsibility of a 
 
 Housekeeper, 16. 
 Income and Marriage, 18. 
 Management of Children, 48. 
 Social Evenings, 4h 
 The Nursery, 4'6, 
 Thoughts on, 16. 
 Housekeeping 
 
 Acetous Fermentation, 92. 
 Adulterated Articles, 78. 
 A Dwelling in Town, 19. 
 Agreement with the Land- 
 lord. 19. 
 
 A Useful Art, 15. 
 Bargain Hunting Perilous, 33. 
 Bed-room Furniture, 22. 
 Bedsteads and Bed curtains, 
 
 22. 
 
 Boarding, 21. 
 
 Brushes used for cleaning, 25. 
 Breathing Chlorine not In- 
 jurious, 91. 
 Calculation of Income and 
 
 Outgoings, 17. 
 Carpets, 22. 
 
 Chloride of Lime a Disinfect- 
 ing agent, 20. 
 Chloride of Soda, 20. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 593 
 
 Housekeeping 
 
 Change of Air required con- 
 tinually, 20. 
 
 Cleaning, Drying, and Cork- 
 ing Bottles, 60. 
 
 Coffee Making in Turkey, 79. 
 
 Covering the Table, 37. 
 
 Cutting," Grinding, and Writ- 
 ing on Glass, 63. 
 
 Cutlery, Crockery, China, &c., 
 24 
 
 Compulsory Present-Giving, 
 80. 
 
 Decanting, Straining, and Fil- 
 tering of Liquids, 65. 
 
 Desserts, Teas and Suppers, 
 102. 
 
 Dessert, 39. 
 
 Disinfecting Operations, 89. 
 
 Difficulty of procuring and 
 retaining good Servants, 
 26. 
 
 Dining-room Furniture, 22. 
 
 Drawing-room Furniture, 22. 
 
 Dividing, Powdering, Grind- 
 ing, &c., 72. 
 
 Domestic Use of Gas in Heat- 
 ing, 86. 
 
 Expenses of a Servant, 26. 
 
 Faraday's Use of Chlorine, 91. 
 
 Fumigation and Disinfection, 
 20. 
 
 Furnishing a House, 21. 
 
 Gratuities to Servants, 29. 
 
 Hall Furniture, 21. 
 
 Hard Water in Washing, 81. 
 
 Hedgehog, 446. 
 
 Herbs for Distilling, 93. 
 
 Hiring Servants, 26. 
 
 Household Linen, 25. 
 
 Household of a British Noble- 
 man, 27. 
 
 Household Expenditure, 17. 
 
 House Rent, 21. 
 
 Impositions in Hotels, 29. 
 
 Insult to the name of Hospi- 
 tality, 29. 
 
 Irish and German Servants, 26, 
 
 Kitchen Furniture, 23. 
 
 Labelling of Glass Vessels, 65. 
 
 Ladies' Packages, 74. 
 
 Lighting of Apartments, 23. 
 
 List of Articles of Silver for 
 the Table, 24. 
 
 List of Spoons, &c., 25. 
 
 Manufacture of cements, 69. 
 
 Marketing, 56. 
 
 Mistaken Notion among 
 American Girls, 30. 
 
 Mode of Warming a House, 
 19. 
 
 Mode of Liberating Chlorine, 
 90. 
 
 Pictures on the wall, 21. 
 
 Placing Dishes on the Table, 
 99. 
 
 Process of Boiling, 82. 
 
 Process of Distillation, 92. 
 
 Qualifications of Servants, 28. 
 
 Requisites in a Cook, 27. 
 
 Rooms in a House, 19. 
 
 Saccharine Fermentation, 91. 
 
 Sleeping, in close rooms in- 
 jurious, 20. 
 
 Boyer's Housewife's .Dinner, 
 89. 
 
 Soyer's List of Kitchen Arti- 
 cles, 23. 
 
 Housekeeping 
 
 Stoppering of Bottles, 61. 
 
 Style of Dinner, a test of re- 
 spectability, 87. 
 
 Stored Articles, 56. 
 
 Sweeping and Dusting, 43. 
 
 Tax on Visitors, 29. 
 
 Teamaking in China, 79. 
 
 Taking a house, 18. 
 
 The Question of Dinner, 36. 
 
 The Store room, 53, 54. 
 
 Thoughts on Housekeeping, 
 16. 
 
 To choose Fish, 59. 
 
 To choose Meats, 56, 57, 58. 
 
 To choose Poultry and Game, 
 58, 59. 
 
 Tying knots, 75. 
 
 Tying over Jars, 76. 
 
 Tying a Parcel, 77. 
 
 Ventilation Important, 20. 
 
 Weights and Scales necessary, 
 
 83. 
 
 Honey Suckle, 539. 
 Hooping Cough, 556. 
 Hopping John, 386. 
 Horse Radish, 132. 
 House Furnishing, 21. 
 Housekeeping Accounts, 33. 
 Household Articles, to keep, 54. 
 Household Linen, 25. 
 Housewife's Dinner, 39. 
 Housewife's Christmas Cake, 479. 
 Housekeeping, Principles of, 33. 
 Household Vermin, to destroy, 
 
 579. 
 
 Hungary Water, 541. 
 Hung Beef, 259, 343. 
 Hunter's Beef, 268. 
 Hysteric Patients, draught for, 
 
 559. 
 
 Ice Cream, Almond, 491. 
 Ice Cream, Wagner's Vanilla, 490. 
 Ice Cream, Wagner's Lemon, 490. 
 Ice Cream, Wagner's Strawberry, 
 
 490. 
 
 Ices, Water, 491. 
 Icing for Cakes, 480. 
 Icing for Fruit Pies and Tarts, 
 
 435. 
 
 Iceland Liverwort Decoction, 526. 
 Iceland Moss Jelly, 523. 
 Imperial. 523. 
 Impressions of Butterflies' Wings, 
 
 to take, 575. 
 
 Impressions of Leaves, 573. 
 Importance of Health, 34. 
 Income and Living, 18. 
 Indelible Marking Ink, 575. 
 Indigestion, Medicine for, 557. 
 Ingredients of Food, 78. 
 India Pickle, 398. 
 Infant's Food, 527. 
 Infection, to prevent, 90. 
 Inflammation of Eyes, 557. 
 Infant's Aperient, 564. 
 Infusion de Lavande Rouge, 543. 
 Infusion de Camomile Romaine, 
 
 543. 
 
 Infusion of Esprit de Safran, 544 
 Infusion of Absinthe, 544. 
 Infusion de Canelle, 544. 
 Infusion Esprit de Rhodia, 544 
 Infusions Spirituous, 548. 
 
 Ink, Recipe for, 569. 
 
 Ink, blue, Recipe for, 569. 
 
 Ink for marking linen, 555. 
 
 Ink Stains, to remove from the 
 
 fingers, 571. 
 
 Ink, to remove from books, 571. 
 Iron Work, to clean, 8a. 
 Italian Cream, 488. 
 Italian Pastes, 450. 
 
 January, Fish in Season for, 149. 
 
 January, Fruits in Season for, 149. 
 
 January, Meats in Season for, 149. 
 
 January, Poultry and Game in 
 Season for, 149. 
 
 January, Vegetables in Season for, 
 149. 
 
 Japanned Goods, to clean, 89. 
 
 Japanned Waiters, &c., to clean, 
 574, 
 
 Jeffrey Hudson in a Pie, 125. 
 
 Jelly, Arrowroot, transparent, 524 
 
 Jelly, Aspic, 854. 
 
 Jelly, Calf's Foot, 491. 
 
 Jelly, cheap Calf's Foot, 492. 
 
 Jelly, clear Apple, 502. 
 
 Jelly Cake, 480. 
 
 Jellies, Coloring for, 502. 
 
 Jelly, Cranberry, 503. 
 
 Jelly, Chicken, 520. 
 
 Jelly, Currant, 502. 
 
 Jelly, Easy and excellent Receipt 
 for, 489, 
 
 Jelly, Iceland Moss, 523. 
 
 Jelly for Invalids, 517. 
 
 Jellies for Meat or raised Pies, 
 410. 
 
 Jelly, Port Wine, 519. 
 
 Jelly, Pork, Dr. RatcliflTs, 518. 
 
 Jelly, Quince, 500. 
 
 Jelly, Strengthening, 518. 
 
 Jelly, Tapioca, 521. 
 
 Jerked Beef, 140. 
 
 Jet, Harnessmaker's, 573. 
 
 Joints in Animals, Names of, 116, 
 
 Johnny Cakes, 469. 
 
 Jophson's Soup, 524. 
 
 July, Fish in Season for, 150. 
 
 July, Fruits in Season for, 150. 
 
 July, Meats in Season for, 150. 
 
 July, Poultry and Game in Sea- 
 son for, 150. 
 
 July, Vegetables in Season for, 
 150. 
 
 Jumbles, 478. 
 
 June, Fish in Season for, 150. 
 
 June, Fruits in Season for, 150, 
 
 June, Meats in Season for, 150. 
 
 June, Poultry and Game in Sea- 
 son for, 150. 
 
 June, Vegetables in Season foi 
 150. 
 
 Kabobs, 530. 
 Kedgeree, 524. 
 Kedgeree for breakfast, 218. 
 Ketchup, Camp, 404 
 Ketchup, Cucumber, 408. 
 Ketchup, Mushroom, 402. 
 Ketchup, Pontac, 406. 
 Ketchup, Seven years', 404 
 Ketchup, Tomato, 404 
 
594 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Ketchup, Tomato, for winter us), 
 
 404. 
 
 Ketchup, Walnut, 403. 
 Ketchup, "Walnut, best quality, 
 
 403. 
 Ketchup, "Walnut, Irish mode, 
 
 403. 
 Kettles and Saucepans, to clean, 
 
 576. 
 
 Kid Gloves, to clean, 569. 
 Kisses, 484. 
 Kitchen Articles, 123. 
 Kitchen Clock, wanted, 123. 
 Kitchen Furniture, 23. 
 Knifeboard, to make, 573. 
 Knives, to clean, 89. 
 Knives and Forks, 575. 
 Knots, 74. 
 Kringles, 482. 
 
 Labelling of Glass vessels, 65. 
 
 Lady Cake, 480. 
 
 Lait de Poule, 524. 
 
 Lait de Eose, 546. 
 
 Lamb, a L' Espagnole, 315. 
 
 Lamb, an Pascal, 815. 
 
 Lamb, Blanquette d' Agneau, a la 
 
 Provencale, 315. 
 Lamb, Breast of, braised, boiled, 
 
 814. 
 
 Lamb, Breast of, to stew, 815. 
 Lamb Chops, 316. 
 Lamb, to choose, 57. 
 Lamb, Chevaux de Frise, 315. 
 Lamb Sweetbreads, with chevaux 
 
 de Frise, 315. 
 Lamb with Lamb sweetbread, 
 
 815. 
 
 Lamb, to bone a Quarter, 814. 
 Lamb, Forequarter of, 311. 
 Lamb, Forequarter, to carve, 112. 
 Lamb's Fry, 814. 
 Lamb's Head, 314 
 Lamb's Head with Brain or Liver, 
 
 814 
 Lamb's Head with Hollandaise, 
 
 314 
 
 Lamb's Head and Emincees, 317. 
 Lamb's Heart Sweetbreads, larded 
 
 with Bacon or Truffles, 317. 
 Lamb's Leg, to boil, 812. 
 Lamb's Leg, to roast, 312. 
 Lamb's Loin, to grill, 812. 
 Lamb's Loin, stewed, 313. 
 Lamb's Leg or Shoulder with 
 
 Peas, 313. 
 Lamb's Leg, boiled with Spinach, 
 
 313. 
 Lamb's Leg or Shotolder with 
 
 French Beans, 813. 
 Lamb's Neck, a la Jardiniere, 313. 
 Lamb, Pieds d' Agneau, 317. 
 Lamb, Saddle of, 312. 
 Lamb, Saddle, Eussian fashion, 
 
 813. 
 
 Lamb, Shoulder of, 312. 
 Lamb, Shoulder, braised, 814. 
 Lamb's Shoulder, forced and 
 
 braised, 812. 
 
 Lamb's Shoulder, larded, 812. 
 Lamb Stones, to fricasse, 815. 
 Lamb Sweetbreads, 316. 
 Lamb Sweetbreads, brown, 816. 
 Lamb Sweetbread Cutlets au 
 
 gratin,817. 
 
 Lamb Sweetbreads as Cutlets, 317. 
 
 Lamb Sweetbreads, roasted, 817. 
 
 Lamb Sweetbreads, larded a la 
 Daubo, 317. 
 
 Lamb Sweetbreads, to stew, 816. 
 
 Lamb Sweetbreads, white, fri- 
 casseed, 316. 
 
 Lamb Trotters, 318. 
 
 Larding, 142. 
 
 Lard, to melt, 828. 
 
 Lard, Hog's, 828. 
 
 Larks or small birds. 365. 
 
 Lavender "Water, 544 
 
 Laying the cloth, 98. 
 
 Laying out of Tables, 94. 
 
 Laying out Tray or Sideboard, 99. 
 
 Leche crema, 488. 
 
 Leeches, 561. 
 
 Lemonade, 511, 524. 
 
 Lemonade, Flaxseed, 522. 
 
 Lemons and Oranges in Jelly, 505. 
 
 Lemon flavoring for Puddings, 
 402. 
 
 Lettuces and Endives, 389. 
 
 Liebig's plan for boiling meat, 83. 
 
 Lily of the Valley Essence, 539. 
 
 Lima Beans, 384. 
 
 Lime, Cement of, 568. 
 
 Linen, Household, 25. 
 
 Linen, to perfume, 571. 
 
 Linen, to take stains out of, 567. 
 
 Linseed Emulsion, 523. 
 
 Liquids, Decanting, 65. 
 
 Liquids, Filtering, 68. 
 
 Liquid Glue, 70. 
 
 Liquid Measures, 124. 
 
 Lip Salve, 549. 
 
 Lip Salve, common, 549. 
 
 Liverwort Decoction, 526. 
 
 Lobscous, 275. 
 
 Lobster, boiled, 204. 
 
 Lobster, curried, 205. 
 
 Lobster, Croquettes of, 205. 
 
 Lobster, Garniture for Omelettes, 
 464. 
 
 Lobster, au gratin, 205. 
 
 Lobster, Salad, Italian, 205. 
 
 Lobster Salad, 205, 392. 
 
 Lotion, Goulard, 559. 
 
 Luncheons, 95. 
 
 Luxuries of different ages, 125. 
 
 M 
 
 Mace, 130. 
 
 Macaroons 484. 
 
 Maccaroni, 450. 
 
 Maccaroni, Timbale of, 450. 
 
 Maccaroni, Pate .of, 4T>0. 
 
 Mackenzie's Perigord Pie, 418. 
 
 Mahogany, to restore the color of, 
 578. 
 
 Maids of Honor, 485. 
 
 Magnolia, Essence, 539. 
 
 Management of Children, 48. 
 
 Mangoes, 897. 
 
 Manipulation, Domestic, 59. 
 
 Marble, to clean, 570. 
 
 Marbled, Goose, 368. 
 
 Marbled Veal, 295. 
 
 March, Fish in Season for, 149. 
 
 March, Fruits in Season for, 149. 
 
 March, Meats in Season for, 149. 
 
 March, Poultry and Game in Sea- 
 son for, 149. 
 
 March, Vegetables in Season for, 
 149. 
 
 Marinade for meats, 250. 
 
 Marinade for collared meats, 854, 
 
 Marjoram, 137 
 
 Marketing, 56. 
 
 Marking Ink, 575. 
 
 Marmalade, 504. 
 
 Marmalade, Apple, 504. 
 
 Marmalade, Orange, 505. 
 
 Marmalade, Pear, 501. 
 
 Marmalade, Quince, 5CO. 
 
 Marrow Pudding, 524. 
 
 Marrow Bones, 264, 273. 
 
 Marrow Bones, baked, 273. 
 
 Mastic Cement, 72. 
 
 Marrow Patties, 421. 
 
 Marshmallow Emulsion, 523. 
 
 Mattresses, to clean, 578. 
 
 May, Fish in Season for, 150. 
 
 May, Fruits in Season for, 150. 
 
 May, Meats in Season for, 150. 
 
 May, Poultry and Game in Season 
 for, 150. 
 
 May, Vegetables in Season for, 150. 
 
 Mayonnaise, 392. 
 
 Mead without fruit, 511. 
 
 Meats for January, February, 149. 
 
 Meats for March, 149. 
 
 Meats for April, May, June, July, 
 150. 
 
 Meats for August, September, 151. 
 
 Meats for October, November, 151. 
 
 Meats for December, 152. 
 
 Meat Jelly, to clarify, 355. 
 
 Meat Pies, 409. 
 
 Medical Guide, Family, 556. 
 
 Meats for Children, 529. 
 
 Medicine for Indigestion, 557. 
 
 Meringues, 493. 
 
 Meringues, a la creme, 494 
 
 Milk, Ass's, 520. 
 
 Milk, artificial Ass's, 520. 
 
 Milk, baked, 520. 
 
 Milk Kolls, 471. 
 
 Milk, toast, 471. 
 
 Millet Pudding, 523. 
 
 Mincemeat, 427, 428. 
 
 Mince Pies, 427. 
 
 Mint, 182. 
 
 Miroton of Apples, 449. 
 
 Mistress, Duties of the, 31. 
 
 Miscellaneous Eeceipts, 567. 
 
 Mixed Pickle, 397. 
 
 Mixture for Children teething, 
 557. 
 
 Mixture for Diarrhea, 559. 
 
 Mock Cream, 490. 
 
 Mock Ginger, 506. 
 
 Molasses Posset, 521. 
 
 Morels, 389. 
 
 Movable Screen, 123. 
 
 Mouth Glue, to make, 70. 
 
 Mouton, Blanquette de, 302. 
 
 Muffins, 468, 470. 
 
 Mulled Cider, 514 
 
 Mush, 453. 
 
 Mushrooms, 388. 
 
 Mushrooms, boiled, 888. 
 
 Mushroom Garniture fbr Ome- 
 lettes, 464 
 
 Mushrooms, to pickle, 894 
 
 Mushrooms, to Pot, 351. 
 
 Musk, 540. 
 
 Mustard, 131, 147. 
 
 Mustard, French, 406. 
 
 Mutton, Camp dish, 310. 
 
 Mutton, to choose, 57. 
 
 Mutton Bagpipe with Endive 
 
INDEX. 
 
 595 
 
 Mutton, Breast of, stewed, 800. 
 Mutton, Breast of, to collar, 853. 
 Mutton, Breast of, au gratin, 
 
 800. 
 
 Mutton, China chilb, 303. 
 Mutton, another way, 303. 
 Mutton, braised Cutlets, 301. 
 Mutton, cutlets of, 801. 
 Mutton, cutlets saute, 301. 
 Mutton, Maintenon, 301. 
 Mutton Chops, broiled, 800. 
 Mutton Chops, fried, 300. 
 Mutton Chops as Beefsteaks, 300. 
 Mutton Cotelettes, a la Mainte- 
 non, 305, 306. 
 Mutton Cutlets with Soubise or 
 
 Onion sauce, 305. 
 Mutton, a better method, 306. 
 Mutton Cotelettes, a la Polonaise, 
 
 806. 
 Mutton Cotelettes, en Eagout, 
 
 806. 
 Mutton Cotelettes, aux Haricots 
 
 verts, 806. 
 Mutton, au Gratin, or scollops, 
 
 304. 
 
 Mutton, an English Haggis, 810. 
 Mutton, Fillet of, 301. 
 Mutton, Fillet of, stewed, 802. 
 Mutton in Marinade, 302. 
 Mutton, French Eagout of, 309. 
 Mutton, Haricot, 302. 
 Mutton Hams, to dress, 305. 
 Mutton, hashed, 303. 
 Mutton, Haunch of, to carve, 112. 
 Mutton, Haunch of, 297. 
 Mutton, Irish, stew of, 303, 310. 
 Mutton, Kebobbed, 302. 
 Mutton Kidneys, 307. 
 Mutton Kidneys, broiled, 805. 
 Mutton, Leg of, roasted, 297. 
 Mutton, Leg, roasted, boned, and 
 
 stuffed, 297. 
 
 Mutton, Leg of, boiled, 298. 
 Mutton, Leg of, braised, 298. 
 Mutton Leg of, to carve, 110. 
 Mutton, to dress a Leg of, with 
 
 Oysters, 297. 
 
 Mutton, Leg of, to stuff, 297. 
 Mutton, Leg steaks, 300. 
 Mutton, Leg, cut to send to table 
 
 neatly, 298. 
 
 Mutton, Loin steaks, 300. 
 Mutton, Loin of, to carve, 111. 
 Mutton, Loin of, stewed, 299. 
 Mutton, Loin of, like Venison, 
 
 305. 
 
 Mutton, like Venison, 804. 
 Mutton, Minced, 803. 
 Mutton, Neck of, to carve, 111. 
 Mutton, Neck of, 299, 300. 
 Mouton, Eognon de, a la Fran- 
 
 gaise, 804. 
 Mutton, Eumps and Kidneys, 
 
 307. 
 
 Mutton, Eisseroles, 804. 
 Mutton, Saddle of, to carve, 111. 
 Mutton, Saddle of, 297. 
 Mutton, Saddle of, a, la Polonaise, 
 
 298. 
 Mutton, Scrags of, a la St. Mene- 
 
 hould, 307. 
 
 Mutton, Shoulder of, 299. 
 Mutton, Scrag of, to carve, 111. 
 Mutton, Shoulder of, with Eice, 
 
 299. 
 Mutton, a Scotch Haggis, 804, 
 
 810. 
 
 Mutton, Soyer's new chop, 299. 
 Mutton, Tails and Kidneys, 807. 
 Mutton, Tails and Tongues, 308. 
 Myrtle Essence, 539. 
 
 N 
 
 Nail in the Foot, 565. 
 Nails to whiten, 549. 
 Napkins to fold, 95. 
 Napkins as the Mitre, 95. 
 Napkins, as the Exquisite, 95. 
 Napkins, as the Collegian, 96. 
 Napkins, as the Cinderella, 96. 
 Napkins, as the Flirt, 96. 
 Napkins, the Neapolitan, 96. 
 Napkins, the Favorite, 96. 
 Nasturtiums, 132. 
 Nasturtiums, pickled, 896. 
 Neats' Tongue, to choose, 58. 
 Neats' Tongue, potted, 350. 
 Neats' Tongue, 291. 
 Negus, 516. 
 Nettlerash, 560. 
 New Year's Cookies, 478. 
 Nipple Liniment, 564. 
 Nougat, 494. 
 November, Fish in Season for, 
 
 151. 
 November, Fruits in Season for, 
 
 151. 
 November, Meats in Season for, 
 
 151. 
 November, Poultry and Game in 
 
 Season for, 151. 
 November, Vegetables in Season 
 
 for, 151. 
 Noyau, 516. 
 Nursery Furniture, 46. 
 Nutmeg, 130. 
 
 October. Fish in Season for, 151. 
 October, Fruits iu Season for, 
 
 151. 
 October. Meats in Season for, 
 
 151. 
 October, Poultry and Game in 
 
 Season for, 151. 
 Octobe)-, Vegetables in Season for, 
 
 151. 
 
 Oeufs, Brouill^s, 463. 
 Oeufs, Farois, 462. 
 Oeufs, Frits, 462. 
 Oeufs, sur le Plat, 462. 
 Oils for the Hair, 545. 
 Oil and Grease, to take out of 
 
 boards, 570. 
 Ointments, 559. 
 Ointment, Elderflower, 562. 
 Ointment, Simple, 559. 
 Ointment. Eesin, 559. 
 Ointment, Calamine, 559. 
 Olives, 134. 
 Omelettes. 460. 
 
 Omelettes, aux Amandes, 481. 
 Omelette Cod. 191. 
 Omelette, aux Confitures, 461. 
 Omelette, aux Fines Herbes, 461. 
 Omelette, d 1 Huitres, 461. 
 Omelette, au Naturel, 461. 
 Omelette, Soufflee, 461. 
 Onions, 131, 388. 
 Onions, Spanish, 380. 
 Onions, pickled, 393, 394 
 
 Orangeade, 521. 
 
 Orange Flower Essence, 539. 
 
 Orange Fool, 492. 
 
 Order and Method, 45. 
 
 Oysters, a llmperiale, 210. 
 
 Oysters, Breaded. 210. 
 
 Oysters, Broiled, 209. 
 
 Oyster Curry, 210. 
 
 Oyster Forcemeat, 246. 
 
 Oyster Fritters, 209. 
 
 Oyster Garniture for Omelettes, 
 
 464. 
 
 Oyster Pie with Sweetbread, 210. 
 Oysters, Pickled, 211. 
 Oysters, Eoasted, 210. 
 Oyster Eolls, 209 
 Oyster Sausages, 210. 
 Oysters, Scalloped, 203, 209, 211. 
 Oyster, Stewed, 211. 
 Oysters with Brown Sauce, 209. 
 Oysters with White Sauce, 209. 
 Ox-Cheek, to collar, 853. 
 Oxford Dumplings, 450. 
 Ox-Feet, 272. 
 Ox-Heart, 270. 
 Ox-Kidneys, 272. 
 Ox-Tails, a la Jardiniere, 269. 
 Ox-Tails, au Gratin, 269. 
 Ox-tongue, Eemains, 272. 
 
 Packing Housekeeping Articles, 
 
 576. 
 
 Pain Perdu, 449. 
 Pains after exertion, 564. 
 Paint, to clean, 89. 
 Paint, Outside, 568. 
 Paint, to take out, 575. 
 Palpitation, Draught for, 557. 
 Panada, 519. 
 Panada, Chicken, 519. 
 Panada, for Fish, 244. 
 Panada for Quenelle, 244 
 Panada for Forcemeat, 244 
 Pancakes, 457. 
 Pancakes, Apple, 457. 
 Pancakes, Dutch, 457. 
 Pancakes, New England, 457. 
 Pancakes, Eice, 457. 
 Parsley, 132. 
 Parsley, to fry, 373. 
 Parsnips, 382. 
 Parties, Evening, 41. 
 Partridges and Pheasants, to pot, 
 
 348. 
 
 Partridges, broiled, 371. 
 Partridges, Salmi of, 871. 
 Partridges, stewed, 871, 
 Passover Balls for Soup, 247. 
 Passover Cakes, 483. 
 Paste, to make, 70, 571. 
 Paste, Flaky, 426. 
 Paste, permanent, 70. 
 Paste of Beef or Mutton, to eat 
 
 like Venison, 422. 
 Paste, very light, 409. 
 Paste, Puff, 408. 
 Paste, Almond, 432. 
 Paste, 406. 
 
 Paste for chapped hands, 545. 
 Paste for chapped lips, 546. 
 Paste, Eye, 568. 
 Pastilles for the breath, 554. 
 Pastilles, au Benzoin, 553. 
 Pastilles for Necklaces, Bracelets 
 
 &c., 554 
 
596 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Pastilles, a la Eose, 558. 
 
 Pastilles, Simple, 553. 
 
 Pastry, Fancy, 426. 
 
 Patchouly, 539. 
 
 Patchouly Extract, 540. 
 
 Pate, Divine de Venus, 548. 
 
 Pat6, des Foies Gras, 412. 
 
 Pate, d' Amandes des aux Jaunes 
 
 d' ceufs, 548. 
 Patties, 423. 
 Patties, Croustade or Dresden, 
 
 433. 
 
 Patties with curds, 484. 
 Patties like Mince Pies, 434. 
 Patties, sweet, 430. 
 Peafowls, 866. 
 Peas, Garniture for Omelettes, 
 
 464. 
 
 Peas, Sweet, Essence of, 540. 
 Pencil Marks, to preserve, 571. 
 Peaches and Apricots, to pickle, 
 
 898. 
 
 Peas, Green, 380. 
 Peas, to preserve, 887. 
 Peas Pudding, 386. 
 Pennyroyal, 132. 
 Pepper, 130. 
 Peppers, to pickle, 399. 
 Perfumery and the Toilet, 537. 
 Perfume Linen, 571. 
 Perigord Pie, 407. 
 Perigord Pie, Mackenzie's 418. 
 Perle Powders, 547. 
 Pernicious effects of Distilling 
 
 Spirits, 510 
 Pets de Nonne, 481. 
 Pettitoes, 326. 
 Pheasants, 875. 
 Pheasants, to carve, 115. 
 Pickle for Meat, 354. 
 Pickled Apple Codlings, 400. 
 Pickled Artichokes, 899. 
 Pickled Barberries, 399. 
 Pickled Butternuts, 899. 
 Pickled Beans, French, 395: 
 Pickled Cabbage, Purple, 396. 
 Pickled Cabbage, Eed, 896. 
 Pickled Cabbage, White, 396. 
 Pickled Cauliflower, 396. 
 Pickled Celery, 396. 
 Pickled Cucumbers, 394. 
 Pickled Gherkins and Kidney 
 
 Beans, 399. 
 Pickled Garlic, 394. 
 Pickled Grapes, 399. 
 Pickle, India, 898. 
 Pickle, Mixed, 897. 
 Pickled Mangoes, 397. 
 Pickled Mushrooms, 894. 
 Pickled Nasturtiums, 396 
 Pickled Onions, 393, 394 
 Pickled Peaches and Apricots, 
 
 398. 
 
 Pickled Peppers, Green, 399. 
 Pickled Plums, 898. 
 Pickled Quince, 398. 
 Pickled Kadish Pods, 895. 
 Pickled SMlots, 394. 
 Pickled Tomatoes, 397. 
 Pickle, to last for years, 347. 
 Pickle Apricots, 398. 
 Pickle Beef, & la Garrick, 274 
 Pickle Cabbage, purple, 396. 
 Pickle Cabbage, red, 396. 
 Pickle Cabbage, white, 896. 
 Pickle Cucumbers, 894 
 Pickle Garlic, 394 
 Pickle Gherkins, 899. 
 
 Pickle Grapes, 399. 
 
 Pickle Herring, 354. 
 
 Pickle Kidney Beans, 899. 
 
 Pickle, Mixed, 897. 
 
 Pickle Mushrooms, 394 
 
 Pickle Onions, 393, 394 
 
 Pickle Oysters, 211. 
 
 Pickle Peaches, 398. 
 
 Pickle Plums, 398. 
 
 Pickle for Meat, 354 
 
 Pickle Neck of Pork, 322, 827. 
 
 Pickle Salmon, 201. 
 
 Pictures on the wall, 21. 
 
 Picture Frames, to preserve, 
 
 570. 
 
 Pie, Apple, 428. 
 Pie, a fine Fish, 424 
 Pie, a Christmas, 422. 
 Pie, Beefsteak, 417. 
 Pie, Beefsteak and Oyster, 421. 
 Pie, Calf's Head, 417. 
 Pie, Calf's Head or Calf's Foot, 
 
 420. 
 
 Pie, Calf's Foot and Kidney, 421. 
 Pie, Chicken, 413. 
 Pie, Cocoanut, 426. 
 Pie, Codfish 424 
 Pie, Cold Veal or Chicken, 417. 
 Pies, Cold, 419. 
 Pie, Cracker, 427. 
 Pies, Duck, 418. 
 Pies, Eel, 414 
 Pie, Fish. 418. 
 Pie, French, 419. 
 Pie of Fowls, raised, 410. 
 Pies, Fruit, 425. 
 Pie, Game, 418. 
 Pie, Giblet, 413. 
 Pie, Gooseberry and other Fruits, 
 
 428. 
 
 Pie, Green Goose, 418. 
 Pie, Grouse, 414 
 Pie, Hare, 419. . 
 Pie, Lamb, 413. 
 Pie, Lamb, hot, 411. 
 Pies, Lent, 430. 
 Pies, Mince, 427. H 
 
 Pie, Mutton, 412. 
 Pie, Oyster, 416. 
 Pie, Partridge, 414. 
 Pie, Peach, 426. 
 Pie of Pheasant, raised, 411. 
 Pie, Pigeon, 413. 
 Pie, Plain Custard, 427. 
 Pies, Pork, to eat cold, 420. 
 Pie, Pumpkin, 426. 
 Pie, Eabbit, 413. 
 Pies, Eaised, Crust for, 407. 
 Pie, Eaised, Eussian, 410. 
 Pie, Eaised, served hot, 410. 
 Pies, Ehubarb, 426. 
 Pie, Eumpsteak, 412. 
 Pie, Snipe, 418. 
 Pie, Squab, 421. 
 Pies, Various, 412. 
 Pie, Veal, in a dish, 417. 
 Pie, Veal and Ham, 412. 
 Pie, Veal and Oyster, 420. 
 Pie, Veal and Sausage, 420. 
 Pic, Veal and Sweetbread, 420. 
 Pie, Vegetable, 419. 
 Pie Yorkshire, Goose, 422. 
 Pig, to Collar, 853. 
 Pig's Feet, 835. 
 Pig's Feet, a la St Menehould, 
 
 826. 
 
 Pig's Feet and Ears, fried, 327. 
 Pig's Head, baked, 825. 
 
 Pig's Head, boiled, 325. 
 
 Pig's Head, to collar, 825. 
 
 Pig's Harslet, 327 
 
 Pig's Feet, stewed, 326. 
 
 Pig's Kidneys, 885. 
 
 Pig's Head, to collar, 353. 
 
 Pig's Cheek, 322. 
 
 Pig's Face, for breakfast, 822. 
 
 Pig, Eoast, 320. 
 
 Pig, Eoast, to carve, 118. 
 
 Pig, to roast, 319. 
 
 Pig, Sucking, to roast, 318. 
 
 Pig, Sucking, to scald, 819. 
 
 Pig, Sucking, Hindquarter of, 
 319. 
 
 Pigeons, broiled, 364. 
 
 Pigeons, to carve, 116. 
 
 Pigeons, compote of, 365. 
 
 Pigeons, cooked as Woodcock, 
 865. 
 
 Pigeons, in Jelly, 365. 
 
 Pigeons, or any Bird in Aspic 
 Jelly, 365. 
 
 Pigeons, potted, 350. 
 
 Pigeons, Eoasted,' 364 
 
 Pigeons, Stewed, 3C5. 
 
 Pilau of Fowl, 862. 
 
 Pilau, Indian, 366. 
 
 Pills, Aperient, 563. 
 
 Pimples, 562. 
 
 Pithcaithly Bannock, 481. 
 
 Placing Dishes at Dinner, 99. 
 
 Plants, to dry, 571. 
 
 Plate, 24, 25. 
 
 Plate, to clean, 89. 
 
 Plaster for Pains, 568. 
 
 Plovers, 371. 
 
 Plover's Eggs, 871. 
 
 Plum Cake, 475. 
 
 Plums, pickled, 398. 
 
 Plum Porridge, 438. 
 
 Plum Pudding Glace, 493. 
 
 Plummer's Pill, 559. 
 
 Poele, French, 363. 
 
 Poele, to boil Fowls in, 360. 
 
 Poeling, 141. 
 
 Polenta, 451. 
 
 Polished Irons, to keep from rust- 
 ing, 569. 
 
 Polish for Tables, 567. 
 
 Pomatum, 545. 
 
 Pommade de Beaute, 549. 
 
 Pommade for chapped lips, 549. 
 
 Pommade, Victoria, 545. 
 
 Pommade, des Sultanes, 548. 
 
 Pommade, de Ninon de 1' Encloa 
 548. 
 
 Pommade for Tumors, 564. 
 
 Pommade for Corns, 564. 
 
 Pone of Sweet Potato, 385. 
 
 Pork, 318. 
 
 Pork, to choose, 57. 
 
 Pork, boiled, of all kinds, 322. 
 
 Pork, Chops or Steaks, 323. 
 
 Pork, baked fagots, 327. 
 
 Pork, chine, 321. 
 
 Pork, Cutlets, 321, 322. 
 
 Pork, Economical dish of, 828. 
 
 Pork, Fillet, to resemble Veal 
 320. 
 
 Pork, Griskin, 318. 
 
 Pork, Hashed, 835. 
 
 Pork, Head Cheese, 324 
 
 Pork, Jelly, 518. 
 
 Pork, Leg of, boiled, 320. 
 
 Pork, Leg of, roasted, 820. 
 
 Pork, Leg of, to carve, 112. 
 
 Pork, Leg of, 321. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 597 
 
 Pork, Leg, mock Goose, 821. 
 
 Pork, Liver Pudding, 324 
 
 Pork, Loin, 320. 
 
 Pork, Neck, rolled, 320. 
 
 Pork, to pickle, 322, 347. 
 
 Pork, to restore, 831. 
 
 Pork, Sparerib, roasted, 320. 
 
 Pork, Sparerib, 318. 
 
 Pork, Spring or forehand, 830. 
 
 Pork, Souse, 32*>. 
 
 Pork Tongues. 331. 
 
 Porridge, 528. 
 
 Port Wine Jelly, 519. 
 
 Potatoes, 377. 
 
 Potato Barm, 467. 
 
 Potatoes, Biscuits of, 379. 
 
 Potato Cheesecakes, 483. 
 
 Potatoes, to brown, 878. 
 
 Potatoes, a la Maitre d 1 Hotel, 
 
 379. 
 
 Potatoes, fried, 379. 
 Potato Flour, 378. 
 Potato Jelly, 378. 
 Potato Loaves, 378. 
 Potatoes, to keep, 377. 
 Potatoes, to mash, 378. 
 Potatoes, New, 377. 
 Potato Omelette, 379. 
 Potatoes and Peas for children, 
 
 529. 
 
 Potato and Meat Salad, 271. 
 Potato Rissoles, 879. 
 Potato Sandwiches, 270. 
 Potatoes, to roast, 379. 
 Potato Souffle, 379. 
 Potato Wall, 378. 
 Pot Pie, 414. 
 Pot Pourri, 552. 
 Pot Pourri, Sweet, 545. 
 Potting and Collaring, 347. 
 Pot all kinds of Game, 350. 
 Pot Beef, 267, 349. 
 Pot Beef like Venison, 349, 351. 
 Pot Birds, 349. 
 Pot Chicken and Ham, 349. 
 Pot Cowheels, 264 
 Pot Hare, 3-19. 
 Pot Mushrooms, 851. 
 Pot Neat's Tongue, 350. 
 Pot Partridges, '348. 
 Pot Pheasants, 343. 
 Pot Pigeons, 350. 
 Pot Poultry and Game, 348. 
 Pot Rabbits, 349. 
 Pot Salmon, 2 )2. 
 Pot Smelts, 350. 
 Pot Veal, 282, 350, 354 
 Pot Venison, 351. 
 Poudre, de la Mer Eonge, 547. 
 Poultice, Bread and Water, 557. 
 Poultry, 356. 
 Poultry and Game for December, 
 
 152. 
 Poultry and Game for January, 
 
 February, March, 149. 
 Poultry and Game, for April, 
 
 May, June, July, 150. 
 Poultry and Game for August, 
 
 September, October, Novem- 
 ber, 151. 
 
 Poultry and Game, to pot, 343. 
 Poultry and Game, to choose, 
 
 58. 
 
 Pound Cake, 478. 
 Powdering, 72. 
 
 Preparation for bad breath, 554 
 Presents to servants, 29. 
 Preston Salts, 551. 
 
 38 
 
 Preserve Apples, 499. 
 Preserve Apricots, 501. 
 Preserve Barberry Cakes, 506. 
 Preserve Blackberry Jam, 505. 
 Preserve Blackberries whole, 503. 
 Preserve Brandy Cherries, 506. 
 Preserve Brandy Peaches, 501. 
 Preserve Cherry Jam, 505. 
 Preserve Crab Apples, 499. 
 Preserve Currants, 503. 
 Preserve Currants, dry, 504. 
 Preserve Currant Jam, 503. 
 Preserve Figs, Green, 504. 
 Preserve Figs, ripe, 504 
 Preserve Ginger, 504 
 Preserve Gooseberries, 502. 
 Preserve Green Corn, 507. 
 Preserve Grapes in Brandy, 503. 
 Preserve Green Gages, 501. 
 Preserve Leinon Peel, 506. 
 Preserve Mock Ginger, 506. 
 Preserve Nectarines, 501. 
 Preserve Oranges or Lemons in 
 
 Jelly, 505. 
 
 Preserve Peaches, 501. 
 Preserve Peaches, fresh, 507. 
 Preserve Pears, 501. 
 Preserve Pineapples, 499. 
 Preserve Pineapple Tart, 499. 
 Preserve Plums, 501. 
 Preserving, General Directions 
 
 for, 499. 
 
 Preserve Quinces, 499. 
 Preserve liaspberries, 503. 
 Preserve Easp berry Cakes, 506. 
 Preserve Easpberry Jam, 505. 
 Preserve Strawberries whole, 
 
 503. 
 
 Preserve Tomatoes fresh, 507. 
 Preserve Tomatoes, ripe or 
 
 green, 504. 
 
 Preserve Watermelon Eind, 498. 
 Primrose Ointment, 557. 
 Principles of Housekeeping, 80. 
 Prussian Cutlets, 336. 
 Pudding, Almond, 442. 
 Pudding, Almond and Sauce, 
 
 Pudding, Batter, 448. 
 Pudding, the Baked Plum, 440. 
 Pudding, Baked Apple, 442. 
 Pudding, Beef Steak, 41-4, 438. 
 Pudding, Bird's Nest, 443. 
 Pudding, Black Cap, 448. 
 Pudding, Boston, 441. 
 Pudding, Boston Cracker, 447. 
 Pudding, Brandy, 447. 
 Pudding, Bread, baked, 444 
 Pudding, Bread and Butter, 446. 
 Pudding, Brown Bread, 446. 
 Pudding, Demi Plum. 445. 
 Pudding, Chocolate, 447. 
 Pudding, Cocoanut, 445. 
 Pudding, Chicken, baked, 438. 
 Pudding, English Plum, 440. 
 Pudding, Farina, 442. 
 Pudding, Fine German, 448. 
 Pudding, Fish, 417. 
 Pudding, Frozen, 493. 
 Pudding, Fruit, 436. 
 Pudding, Game, 433. 
 Pudding, Gloucester, 450. 
 Pudding, Goose, 439. 
 Pudding, Ground Eice, 440, 445. 
 Pudding, Ground Eice with Fruit, 
 
 445. 
 
 Pudding, Hasty, 442. 
 Pudding, Indian, 444 
 
 Pudding, Jenny Lind, 441. 
 Pudding, Kidney, 416. 
 Pudding, Lamb, 415. 
 Pudding, Lemon, 442. 
 Pudding, Maccaroni, 445. 
 Pudding, Marlborough, 440. 
 Pudding, Marrow, 439. 
 Pudding, Meat, 486. 
 Pudding, Muffin and Crumpet, 
 
 Pudding, Mutton, 415. 
 Pudding a la Nesselrode, 449. 
 Pudding, Newcastle, 441. 
 Pudding, Oatmeal, 445. 
 Pudding, Orange, 443, 448. 
 Pudding, Paradise, 442. 
 Pudding, Plain Eice, 443. 
 Pudding, Polka, 441. 
 Pudding, Pork, 415. 
 Pudding, Potato, 426. 
 Pudding, Pumpkin, 426. 
 Pudding, Quaking, 447. 
 Pudding, Quince, 448. 
 Pudding, Eabbit, 416. 
 Pudding, Eichelieu, 441. 
 Pudding, Eich Plum, 439. 
 Pudding, Eoly Poly, 448. 
 Pudding, Sago, 444. 
 Puddiner. Sponge, 447. 
 Puddings, Suet, 437. 
 Puddings, Sweet, 486, 439. 
 Puddings, Sweetmeat, 448. 
 Puddings, Tansy, 439. 
 Puddings, Tapioca, 444 
 Puddings, Yorkshire, 416, 438. 
 Puddings, Veal, 415. 
 Puddings, Vermicelli, 447. 
 Puffs, Light, 429. 
 Puffs, Spanish, 484 
 Puff Paste, 408. 
 Punch, 513. 
 Punch, Milk, 514. 
 Punch, English, 513. 
 Punch, French, 514 
 Punch, Norfolk, 513. 
 Punch, Eegent's, 513. 
 Punch, Tea, 514 
 Punch, Victoria, 514 
 Punch, Wine, 514. 
 Puree of Cauliflower, 236. 
 Puree of Cucumber, 239. 
 Puree of Onion, 227. 
 Puree of Lobster, 186. 
 Puree of Turnips, 184 
 Puree do Volaille, 863. 
 
 Quaking Pudding, 44T. 
 Qualifications of Servants, 281 
 Quihi Sauce, 240. 
 Queen Cake, 477. 
 Quenelles, 129. 
 Quin's Sauce, 406. 
 Quince, Pickled, 398 
 Quince Pudding, 448. 
 Quinces, to preserve, 499. 
 
 E 
 
 Eabbit, to carve, 118. 
 Eabbits, Fricasseed, 872. 
 Eabbits, Potted, 849. 
 Eabbits, to skin, 878. 
 Eabbits, Pilau of, 873. 
 
598 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Rabbits, to taste like Hare, 372. 
 
 Kadish Pods, pickled, 395. 
 
 Ragout of Cod Sounds, 190. 
 
 Ragout of Fish, 214. 
 
 Raised Crust for Pies, 407. 
 
 Ramequins, 455. 
 
 Ramequins, a la Parisienne, 455. 
 
 Ramequins, fried, 455. 
 
 Ramifolle, 336. 
 
 Ratifias, 484, 511. 
 
 Rt mains of Ox Tongue, 272. 
 
 Rennet, 490. 
 
 Rennet Whey, 523. 
 
 Rheumatism, Medicine for, 560,582. 
 
 Ribbons, to wash, 572. 
 
 Rice and Apples, 528. 
 
 Rice, to boil, 452. 
 
 Rice Bread, 466. 
 
 Rice Cake, 485. 
 
 Rice, Croquettes, 452. 
 
 Rice, Casserole de Ris, 453. 
 
 Rice Croquettes, with Apricot 
 
 Marmalade, 453. 
 Rice Cakes, 463. 
 Rice Fritters, 452. 
 Rice Flummery, 491. 
 Rice, Gateau of, 453. 
 Rice Gruel, 521. 
 Rice Pudding with Fruit, 528. 
 Rice for Savory dishes, 452. 
 Rice Milk, 443. 
 Rice for Sweet Dishes, 452. 
 Rice Water, 523. 
 Richmond Maids of Honor, 436. 
 Rich Gravy, 222. 
 Ringworm, cnre for, 557. 
 Ris de Veau, en Caisses, 294. 
 Rissoles of all kinds, 227, 247. 
 Rissoles of Fowl, 363. 
 Roas-ting, 137. 
 Roast Beef of Lamb, 296. 
 Roast Beef, Sirloin, 251. 
 Roast Beef Steaks, 255. 
 Roast Beef Tongue, 262. 
 Roast Ducks, 869. 
 Roast Fillet of Beef, 251. 
 Roast Fillet of Veal, 267. 
 Roast Fowls, 361. 
 Roast Goose, 368. 
 Roast Ham, 330. 
 Roast Hare, 872. 
 Roast Leg of Lamb, 812. 
 Roast Leg of Mutton, 297. 
 Roast Leg of Pork, 320. 
 Roast Meat to baste, 139. 
 Roast Meat to brown, 139. 
 Roast Meat to froth, 139. 
 Roast Oysters, 210. 
 Roast Pig, 319, 820. 
 Roast Pigeons, 364. 
 Roast Pike, 195. 
 Roast Potatoes, 379. 
 Roast Shad, 194. 
 Roast Shoulder of Venison, 875. 
 Roast Sparerib, 320. 
 Roast Sucking Pig, 818. 
 Roast Trout, 195. 
 Roast Sweetbreads, 291, 317. , 
 Roast Turkey, 356. 
 Rocks, 468. 
 Rolls, 468. 
 
 Rbndaletia, Essence of, 540. 
 Rooms, Airing of, 35. 
 Rose, 540. 
 
 Rose Face Powder, 546. 
 Rose Lip Salve, 549. 
 Rosemary, Otto of, 541. 
 Rose, Moss, Essence of, 540. 
 
 Rose, Tea, Essence of, 541. 
 Rose, Triple, Esprit de, 540. 
 Rose, White, Essence of, 540. 
 Routine of Daily Work, 42. 
 Rudiments of Cookery, 136. 
 Rusk, to make, 469, 470. 
 
 S 
 
 Sachet, & la "Frangipanne, 552. 
 
 Sachet, Heliotrope, 552, 552. 
 
 Sachet, Lavender, 552. 
 
 Sachet, a la Mousselaine, 552. 
 
 Sachet, Millefleur, 552. 
 
 Sachet, Portugal, 552. 
 
 Sachet, Patchouly, 552. 
 
 Sachet, Rose, 552. 
 
 Sack Posset, 513. 
 
 Saffron, 134. 
 
 Sage, 132. 
 
 Sago Fruit Pudding, 525. 
 
 Saso Gruel, 522. 
 
 Salads, 890. 
 
 Salad, Chicken, 890, 891. 
 
 Salad, Family, 271. 
 
 Salad Dressing, 390. 
 
 Salad, Dressing for Lettuce, 890. 
 
 Salad, Fish, 892. 
 
 Salad of Fowl, 391. 
 
 Salad, Lobster, 892. 
 
 Salad, Mayonnaise, 892. 
 
 Salade, Pickle, 406. 
 
 Salade, Sidney Smith's Receipt 
 
 for, 389. 
 
 Salads, Summer, 891. 
 Salads, Winter, 391. 
 Sally Lunu, 468. 
 Salmon, Dried, 530. 
 Salsify, 380, 382. 
 Salsop, 135. 
 Salt, Bay, 129. 
 Salt, Rock, 129. 
 Sandwiches, 532. 
 Sangaree, 514. 
 Saponaceous Cream of Almonds, 
 
 Sauce, Anchovy Butter, 235. 
 
 Sauce, Anchovy, Butter of, 215. 
 
 Sauce, Anchovy, for Fish, 215. 
 
 Sauce, a T Allemande, 241. 
 
 Sauce, Apple, 232. 
 
 Sauce, Apple, Savory, 232. 
 
 Sauce, Aspic, the, 221. 
 
 Sauce, Bechamel, 227, 228. 
 
 Sauce, Beef Gravy, 220. 
 
 Sauce, Beef Gravy, French Re- 
 ceipt, 220. 
 
 Sauce, Blanche, 228. 
 
 Sauce, Blonde of Veal, 240. 
 
 Sauce, Bread, 228. 
 
 Sauce, Brown, 215. 
 
 Sauce, Brown, Cucumber, 234. 
 
 Sauce, Brown, Mushroom, 235. 
 
 Sauce, Brown, Mushroom, thin, 
 234 
 
 Sauce, Brown Sharp or Poivrade, 
 237. 
 
 Sauce, Brown, Soyer's, 283. 
 
 Sauce, Brown Thickening, 228. 
 
 Sauce, Caper, Brown, 223. 
 
 Sauce, Caper, for Fish, 215. 
 
 Sauce, Caper, a la Francaise, 241. 
 
 Sauce, Caper, to imitate, 241. 
 
 Sauce, Caper, for Meat, 242. 
 
 Sauce, Caper, White, 223. 
 
 Sauce, Carachi, 239. 
 
 Sauce, Carrack or Indian, 222. 
 
 Sauce, Celery, 225, 243. 
 
 Sauce, Chestnut, 229. 
 
 Sauce, Chetney and Quihi, 240. 
 
 Sauce, Cod, 217. 
 
 Sauce, Cranberry, 243. 
 
 Sauce, Cullis, 231. 
 
 Sauce, Cullis, the, 240. 
 
 Sauce, Currant. 232. 
 
 Sauce, Curry Powder, Delhi, 221. 
 
 Sance, Curry, Kitchener's, 221. 
 
 Sauce, Curry Powders, 221. 
 
 Sauce, Curry, plain, 221. 
 
 Sauce, Curry, Soyer's, '236. 
 
 Sauce, Demi Glaze, 233. 
 
 Sauce for Ducklings, 232. 
 
 Sauce Dutch, French Receipt, 
 
 227. 
 
 Sauce, Eel, 217. 
 Sauce, Egg, 215,224. 
 Sauce, Epicurean, 222. 
 Sauce, Eschalot, 234. 
 Sauce, a TEspagnole, 238. 
 Sauce, Fennel, 215, 223, 226. 
 Sauce for Fish, 214, 217. 
 Sauce, Fish of all kinds, 214. 
 Sauce, Fresh Pork, 226. 
 Sauce for Fricandeau, 231. 
 Sauce, Garlic, 235. 
 Sauce, Gooseberry, 231. 
 Sauce, for Geese, 231. 
 Sauce, Glaze, French Receipt, 
 
 227. 
 
 Sauce, Gravy, 218. 
 Sauce, Gravy, clear, 220. 
 Sauce, Gravy, to make Mutton 
 
 taste like Venison, 220. 
 Sauce, Gravy, stock for, 219. 
 Sauce, Gravy, for Venison Haunch, 
 
 Sauce, Gravy, for Veal, 220. 
 Sauces, Gravies, &c., 218. 
 Sauce, Gravy, rich, 222. 
 Sauce, Harvey, 225. 
 Sauce, a T Hollandaise, 238. 
 Sauce, Horseradish, 214, 224 
 Sauce, Hot Spice, 222. 
 Sauce, India Pickle, 237. 
 Sauce, Italian, for Salads, 226. 
 Sauce, Lemon, for boiled Fowls, 
 
 228. 
 
 Sauce, Lemon, white, 228. 
 Sauce, Liaison, 231. 
 Sauce, Liaison of Eggs, 235. 
 Sauce, Liver, 229. 
 Sauce, Liver, for boiled Chickens, 
 
 229. 
 
 Sauce, Lobster, 218. 
 Sauce, Lobster, a la Creme, 215. 
 Sauce, Lobster, French, 216. 
 Sauce, Lobster, new, 215. 
 Sauce, Lobster, simplified, 216. 
 Sauce, Lobster and Shrimp, 216. 
 Sauce, for made dishes, 233. 
 Sauce, Mandram, 224. 
 Sauce, la Magnonnaise, 289. 
 Sauce, Maigre, 238. 
 Sauce, Maitre d 1 Hotel butter, 223. 
 Sauce, a la Maitre d' Hotel, 231. 
 Sauce, Matelote, 217. 
 Sauce, Matelote, simplified, 217. 
 Sauce, Melted Butter, 222. 
 Sauce, Melted Butter, to brown, 
 
 223. 
 
 Sauce, a la Militaire, 405. 
 Sauce, Minced Herb, 234 
 Sauce, Mint, 226. 
 Sauce, Mint, for Lamb, 235. 
 Sauce, Mint, for Roast Lamb, 224 
 
INDEX. 
 
 599 
 
 Since, Mushroom, 224 
 
 Sauce, Mushroom Ketchup, 242. 
 
 Sauce, Mussel, 21T. 
 
 Sauce, Nasturtium, 243. 
 
 Sauce, Onion, 225. 
 
 Sauce, Onion, Brown, 225. 
 
 Sauce, Onion Puree, 236. 
 
 Sauce, Orange, for Game, 235. 
 
 Sauce, Orange Gravy, 226. 
 
 Sauce, Oude, the Original, 239. 
 
 Sauce, Oyster, 225. 
 
 Sauce, Papillotte, 235. 
 
 Sauce, Parsley and Butter, 223. 
 
 Sauce, Piquant, 238. 
 
 Sauce, Piquant or Sharp, 234 
 
 Sauce, Poivrade, 237. 
 
 Sauce, a la Provencale, 238. 
 
 Sauce, Puree of Cauliflower, 236. 
 
 Sauce, Puree of Cucumber, 239. 
 
 Sauce, Puree of Onion, 227. 
 
 Sauce, Queen Mary's, 224 
 
 Sauce, Ravigote, 234. 
 
 Sauce, a la Reine, 239. 
 
 Sauces for Roast Fowls, 230. 
 
 Sauce, Robert, 227. 
 
 Sauce for Roast Beef and Mutton, 
 
 224. 
 
 Sauce, Robert, Soyer's, 234 
 Sauce, Royale, 239. 
 Sauce, Roux, 231. 
 Sauce for Salmon, 216. 
 Sauce for Shrimp, 216, 218. 
 Sauce, Soyer's, 235. 
 Sauce, Spinach, Pur6e, 237. 
 Sauce, Spinach, 238. 
 Sauce, a la St. Menehould, 239. 
 Sauce for Steaks and Chops, 
 
 243. 
 
 Sauces, Store, 405. 
 Sauce, Soubise, 227. 
 Sauce for Sucking Pig, 232. 
 Sauce, Tarragon, "226. 234 
 Sauce a la Tartare, 226. 
 Sauce, Tomato, 226. 
 Sauce, Tomato, Soyer's, 235. 
 Sauce, Truffle, 229. 
 Sauce, Tournee, 240. 
 Sauce, Tomato, Francaise, 242. 
 Sauce, Tomatoes, Garniture, 242. 
 Sauce, Tomato, a 1' Italienne, 
 
 242. 
 
 Sauce, Tomato Ketchup, 243. 
 Sauce, Veal Gravy, 240. 
 Sauce, Veloute of Bechamel, a 
 
 new method, 241. 
 Sauce, Vegetable Marrow, 230. 
 Sauce, Veloute, the, 241. 
 Sauce,.JVelout6, 220. 
 Sauce, Walnut Ketchup, 243. 
 Sauce, White Cream for Puree, 
 
 237. 
 
 Sauce, White, 214, 229, 230. 
 Sauce, White Roux, 228. 
 Sauce, White, for Chickens, 229. 
 Sauce for White Poultry, boiled, 
 
 229. 
 
 Sauce, White, Soyer's, 232. 
 Sauce, White, very good, (new) 
 
 236. 
 
 Sauces for Wild Fowl, 232. 
 Sauce, White Thickening, 238. 
 Sauce, Worcester, 419. 
 Saucepan Digester, 123. 
 Saucr Kraut, 383. 
 Bauer Kraut, to serve, 883. 
 Saucisses, au Chataignes, 325. 
 Saucisses, a 1' Espagnole, 324 
 Sausages, 323, 324 
 
 Sausages, Beef, 333. 
 
 Sausages, Black Puddings, 327, 
 
 849. 
 
 Sausages, Black and White, 327. 
 Sausages, Bologna, 324 
 Sausage Cakes, 334. 
 Sausage, to eat cold, 888. 
 Sausages, Fowl or Rabbit, 339. 
 Sausages and Forcemeat, 387. 
 Sausage Meat, 338. 
 Sausages, Mutton, 338. 
 Sausages, Oyster, 838. 
 Sausages, Spanish and Portuguese, 
 
 389. 
 
 Sausages, Spiced, 825. 
 Sausage Toast, 530. 
 Sausages, University Receipt for, 
 
 324 
 
 Sausages, Veal and Poultry, 339. 
 Sausages, White, 325, 327, 840. 
 Savon au Miel, 547. 
 Savory, 132. 
 
 Savory Dishes for Breakfast, 529. 
 Scorzonera, 3SO, 382. 
 Scarlet Fever, 556. 
 Scotch Woodcock, 530. 
 Scollops of Calfs Liver with 
 
 herbs, 292. 
 Scollops of Sweetbread with Peas, 
 
 292. 
 
 Scorched Linen, to renew, 570. 
 Scotch Short Bread, 483. 
 Sea Kale, 382. 
 Sea Pie, 276. 
 
 Seasoning for. Raised Pies, 410. 
 Seasoning for a Goose, 248. 
 Seasoning for Stuffing, 245. 
 Seasoning for Roast Pork, 248. 
 Seasoning for Ducks or Geese, 
 
 248. 
 
 Seasoning for a Sucking Pig, 248. 
 Second Course at Dinner, 100. 
 Seed Cake 480. 
 Semonlina, 527. 
 September, Fish in Season for, 
 
 151. 
 September, Fruits in Season for, 
 
 151. 
 September, Meats in Season for, 
 
 151. 
 September, Poultry and Game in 
 
 Season for, 151. 
 September, Vegetables in Season 
 
 for, 151. 
 Servants, 26. 
 Serve Fish, 107. 
 Serving Dinner, 40. 
 Serving Breakfasts, 43, 94 
 Servants' Duties, 42. 
 Servants' Perquisites, 28. 
 Shalots Pickled, 394 
 Shaving Pastes, 555. 
 Sheep's Head, 308. 
 Sheep's Rumps and Kidneys, 
 
 135. 
 
 Sheep's Tails and Kidneys, 307. 
 Sheep's Tails and Tongues, 308. 
 Sheep's Tongues stewed, 305. 
 Sheep's Trotters, 309. 
 Sheep's Tongues with Turnips, 
 
 811. 
 Sheep's Tongues with Cabbage 
 
 Lettuces, 311. 
 Shellfish, to pot, 348. 
 Short Cakes, 468. 
 Shoes, to make Waterproof. 578. 
 Sick, Cookery for, 517. 
 Sieves, 124 
 
 Silk, to clean, 570. 
 
 Silver, to clean, 571. 
 
 Silver Flowers, to paint on Silk 
 
 571. 
 
 Simnel, 429. 
 Sippets, 519. 
 Slip, 489. 
 Smearcase, 454. 
 Smelts, Potted, 850. 
 Soap, to keep, 55. 
 Soaps, 547. 
 
 Soap, Frangipanne, 547. 
 Soap, to keep, 54. 
 Soap, Transparent, 547. 
 Soda, in washing, 55. 
 Somersetshire Fromity, 523. 
 Souffle of Apples, 453, 
 Soups, 155. 
 Soup, Asparagus, with Greon 
 
 Peas, 180. 
 
 Soup, del Asperge, 180. 
 Soup, Autumn, 168. 
 Soup, Baked, 169. 
 Soup, Bean, 180. 
 Soup, Brown Gravy, 157. 
 Soup, Brown, Stock for, 157. 
 Soup, Browning for, 159. 
 Soup Cabbage, 182, 
 Soup, Cock-a-Leekie, 165. 
 Soup, a la Creci or Carrot, 182. 
 Soup, Clam, 186, 187. 
 Soup, Cottage. 164 
 Soup, Eel, 187. 
 Soup, Family, 168. 
 Soup, Fish, 185. 
 Soup, a la Francaise, 163. 
 Soup, G.blet, 169. 
 Soup, Gravy, 161. 
 Soup, Green Pea Porridge, 182. 
 Soup, Hare, 178. 
 Soup, Hare or Wild Duck, 178. 
 Soup, Harico, 162. 
 Soup, Hessian, 167. 
 Soup, Hotch Potoh, 166. 
 Soup, Hotch Potch, English, 168. 
 Soup, Italienne, 181. 
 Soup, Jophson's, 524. 
 Soup, a la Julienne, 180. 
 Soup, Julienne, with Consommd. 
 
 181. 
 
 Soup, Julienne, Soyer's, 181. 
 Soup, Jenny Lind's, 162. 
 Soup, Lake and Pond Fish, 188. 
 Soup, Lamb, 168. 
 Soup, Leek or Onion, 183. 
 Soup, Leg of Beef Broth, 168. 
 Soup, Lobster, 185. 
 Soup, Maccaroni, 182. 
 Soup, Maccaroni, with Consomme. 
 
 181. 
 
 Soup, Mock Turtle, 172, 177. 
 Soup, Mock Turtle, English, 175. 
 Soup, Mullagatawny, 170. 
 Soup, Mullagatawny, Soyer's, 166. 
 Soup, Mullagatawny, English, 
 
 167. 
 
 Soup, Mutton, 168. 
 Soup, Mutton Broth, 169. 
 Soup, New England Chowder 
 
 187. 
 
 Soup, Neat's Feet, 173. 
 Soup, Ochra, 161. 
 Soup, Onion, 183. 
 Soup, Ox-tail, 163. 
 Soup, Oyster, 186. 
 Soup, Partridge, 179. 
 Soup, Pepperpot, 161, 184 
 Soup, Pepperpot Hotchpotch, 16$ 
 
600 INDEX. 
 
 Boup Pigeon, 178. 
 
 Stew Loin of Lamb, 813. 
 
 Tea, Beef, 518. 
 
 Soup, Potato Maigre, 183. 
 
 Stew Loin of Mutton, 299. 
 
 Tea Cream, 498. 
 
 Soup, Potage u la Reine, 170. 
 Soup, Portable. 159. 
 Soup, Portable White, 160. 
 
 Stew Mackerel, 198. 
 Stew Neck of Veal, 279. 
 Stew Partridges, 871. 
 
 Tea, Dandelion and Parsley, 523. 
 Tea, Elderflower, 522. 
 Teas, 103. 
 
 Soup, Potage a la Reine (Udos), 
 
 Stew Piir's Feet. 326. 
 Stew Rump Steak, 259. 
 
 Term,?, Foreign, Glossary of 
 Atalets, 126. 
 
 Soup, Pot au feu, French, 162. 
 Soup, Pot au feu, 161. 
 
 Stew Sheep's Tongues, 305. 
 Stew Shoulder of Venison, 875. 
 
 Baba, 126. 
 Bain Marie, 126 
 
 Soup, Puree of Lobster, 186. 
 
 Stew Sturgeon, 197. 
 
 Bard, 126. 
 
 Soup, Puree of Turnip, 184. 
 
 Stew Sweetbreads, 290, 311. 
 
 Beignet, 126. 
 
 Soup, a la Keine Victoria, 167. 
 
 Stew Trout, 199. 
 
 Blanc, 126. 
 
 Soup, Kice, 170. 
 
 Stew Watercress, 388. 
 
 Blanch, 126. 
 
 Soup, Rice and Meat, 163. 
 Soup, Rice Cream, 177. 
 
 Stock for Gravy, 219. 
 Stoppering, 61. 
 
 Blariqnette, 127. 
 Bouilli, 127. 
 
 Soup, Sago, 165. 
 
 Stove. Cooking, 85. 
 
 Bouillon, 127. 
 
 Soup, a la Sap, 167. 
 Soup, Saute, 1S4 
 Soup, Savory Jellv, 179. 
 Soup, Scotch Kail, 164. 
 
 Stove, Cottager's, 85. 
 Stuffing, 245. 
 Straining Liquids, 58. 
 Strengthening Jellv. 518. 
 
 Bouquet, 127, 
 Bouquet garni, 127. 
 Bourguignote, 127. 
 Braise, 127. 
 
 Soup, Scotch Broth, 165. 
 
 Strasburg Potted Meat, 274 
 
 Brioche, 127. 
 
 Soxip, Scotch Barley Broth, 169. 
 Soups, Seasonings for. 156. 
 
 Succotash, 884 
 Suet, 147. 
 
 Buisson, 127. 
 Callipash, 127. 
 
 Soup, Snapping Turtle, 179. 
 Soup, Sheep's Head, 165. 
 Soup, Sover's Brown Gravy, 158. 
 Soup, Sover's Glaze, 150. 
 
 Sugar, 134. 
 Sugar Almonds, 509. 
 Sugar, to boil for Spinning, 503. 
 Sugar Bonbons, 509. 
 
 Callipee, 127. 
 Capilotade, 127. 
 Caramel, 127. 
 Casserole. 127. 
 
 Soup, Sorrel, 183. 
 Soup, Spring, 167, 181, 184 
 Soup, Stock for Fish, 185. 
 Soup, Stock for all kinds of, 153. 
 
 Sugar Cake, 479. 
 Sugar, to clarify, 508. 
 Sugar, Degrees of boiling, 508. 
 Sugar Taffie, 509. 
 
 Civet, 127. 
 Compeigne, 127. 
 Compotier, 127. 
 Compote, 127. 
 
 Soup, Stock for White, 156. 
 
 Suppers, 103. 
 
 Consomme, 127. 
 
 Soup, Summer, 168. 
 
 Sweetbreads, 290. 
 
 Couronne, 127. 
 
 Soup, Tomato, 180, 183. 
 
 Sweetbreads, fricasseed brown, 
 
 Court, 127. 
 
 Soup, la Tortile, 173. 
 
 291. 
 
 Coulis, 127. 
 
 Soup, Transparent, 160. 
 Soup, Turtle, 171. 
 
 Sweetbread, Croquettes of, 291. 
 Sweetbreads, Croquettes of, 
 
 Croquettes, 127. 
 Croustades, 127. 
 
 Soup, Veal Broth, 168, 170. 
 
 French Receipt, 292. 
 
 Croutons, 127. 
 
 Soup, Veal Potage, 170. 
 
 Sweetbreads, Fricasseed White, 
 
 Dorez, 127. 
 
 Soup, Vegetable, 179. 
 
 291. 
 
 Dorure, 127. 
 
 Soup, Vcloute, 178. 
 Soup, Venison, 171. 
 
 Sweetbreads, Fried, 290. 
 Sweetbreads, a la Daube, 290. 
 
 En papillote, 127. 
 Entremets, 127. 
 
 Soup, White, 161, 163. 
 
 Sweetbreads, Roasted, 291. 
 
 Entree, 127. 
 
 Soup, White Stock, 160. 
 
 Sweetbreads, to roast, 291. 
 
 Farce, 128. 
 
 Soup, Winter. 168. 
 
 Sweetbreads, Stewed, 290. 
 
 Financiere, 128. 
 
 Soup, Winter Pea, 182. 
 
 Sweetbreads, Scollops of, with 
 
 Flan, 128. 
 
 Soup, Winter Vegetable, 184 
 
 Green Peas, 292. 
 
 Faggot, 128. 
 
 Soy, 135. 
 
 Sweet Corn, 385. 
 
 Fricandeaux, 128. 
 
 Spinach, 382. 
 
 Sweet Potato Pone, 885. 
 
 Gateau, 128. 
 
 Spiritwash, 558. 
 
 Syllabub, 489-. 
 
 Glaze, 128. 
 
 Sponges, to clean, 568. 
 
 Syllabub, Country, 491. 
 
 Glaze Ice, 128. 
 
 Sponge Cake, 477. 
 
 Sympathetic Inks, 573. 
 
 Godiveau, 128. 
 
 Sprain, 560. 
 
 
 Gras, 123. 
 
 Sprains and Bruises, 560. 
 
 
 Gratin, 128. 
 
 Spring, Aperient, 563. 
 
 T 
 
 Hors d' Oeuvre, 123. 
 
 Squashes or Cymbelins, 885. 
 
 
 Lard, 128. 
 
 Squash, Winter, 885. 
 
 Table, Direction of, 37. 
 
 Lardon, 128. 
 
 Steel Forks, to clean, 89. 
 
 Table Furniture, 37. 
 
 Liaison, 128. ^, 
 
 Steel Pens, to preserve from cor- 
 
 Tables, Laying out of, 94. 
 
 Madeleine, 128. 
 
 rosion, 581. 
 
 Tainted Meat, to restore, 254 
 
 Maigre, 128. 
 
 Stewing, 142. 
 
 Tamarinds, 524. 
 
 Marinade, 128. 
 
 Stew Beans, 886, 
 
 Tankard, Cool, 513. 
 
 Mash, 128. 
 
 Stew Beef. 252, 256. 
 
 Tapioca, 135. 
 
 Matelote, 128. 
 
 Stew Beef Steaks, 255. 
 Stew Beef Tongue, 262, 
 
 Tapioca,Milk, 525. 
 Tarragon, 132. 
 
 Meringue, 128. 
 Miroton, 128. 
 
 Stew Breast of Lamb, 315. 
 
 Tart, Apricot, 428. 
 
 Nouilles, 128. 
 
 Stew Breast of Mutton, 300. 
 
 Tart, Codling, 428. 
 
 Panada, 128. 
 
 Stew Brisket of Beef, 253, 262. 
 
 Tarts, Cranberry, 432. 
 
 Pate, 128. 
 
 Stew Breast of Veal, 278. 
 
 Tartlets of Almond Paste, 433. 
 
 Poel -e, 128. 
 
 Stew Carp, 196. 
 
 Tartlets, Green Apricots, 431. 
 
 Posset, 128. 
 
 Stew Crabs, 207. 
 
 Tart, Green Gooseberry, 433. 
 
 Potage, 128. 
 
 Stew Duck and Peas, 369. 
 
 Tartlets, a la Paganini, 432. 
 
 Pot au feu, 128. 
 
 Stew Fillet of Mutton, 302. 
 
 Tartlets, Prune, 432. 
 
 Puree, 12S. 
 
 Stew First Watch, 276. 
 
 Tartlets, Lemon, 431. 
 
 Quenelles, 129. 
 
 Stew Fish, 214 
 
 Tarts, Small Fruit, 431. 
 
 Rissole, 129. 
 
 Stew Halibut, 191. 
 Stew Knuckle of Veal, 279. 
 
 Tartlets with Strawberries, 483. 
 Tea, 496. 
 
 Roux, 129. 
 Salmi, 129. 
 
 Stew Lobster, 204 
 
 Tea, Balm, 521. 
 
 Sabotiore, 129. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 601 
 
 Sauter, 129. 
 
 Tamis, 129. 
 
 Terrapins, Stewed, 208. 
 
 Test of the Utility of Know- 
 ledge 15. 
 
 Third Coarse at Dinner, 100. 
 
 Tourner, 129. 
 Tourte, 129. 
 
 Vanner, 129. 
 
 Veloute, 129. 
 
 Vol au vent, 129. 
 Thoughts and Mao-ims on House- 
 keeping, 15. 
 
 All Soups, 143. 
 
 Apples, to choose and keep, 
 146. 
 
 Bag for Tape, Strings, But- 
 tons, &c., 145,' 
 
 Bones for Soup, 144 
 
 Bread Pounded for Paddings, 
 144. 
 
 Brewis, 144. 
 
 Brooms, 145. 
 
 Buffaloes' Tongues, 145. 
 
 Carrots, 147. 
 
 Ca.iliflowers, 14T. 
 
 Celery, 147. 
 
 Cleanliness the first, second, 
 and third requisite for a 
 Cook, 143. 
 
 Clean Hands always, 148. 
 
 Cold Water cracks Iron, 148. 
 
 Copper Vessels dangerous, 148. 
 
 Corning Meat, 146. 
 
 Cover Castors, 145. 
 
 Cover Flour, Sugar, &c., 143. 
 
 Deaths from rust on copper 
 vessels, 144. 
 
 Dinner plates hot, 144. 
 
 Dirty Saucepans dangerous, 
 
 Eggs in Lime water, 144. 
 Empty Saucepans after using, 
 
 143. 
 
 Fish, to cook, 148. 
 Foundation of poverty or 
 
 riches, 144. 
 Fragments of time valuable, 
 
 144. 
 
 Game, to clean, &c., 147. 
 Gravies, 147. 
 Herbs, to dry, 146. 
 Herbs, to keep, 145. 
 Horseradish, 145. 
 Hams, to put away, 146. 
 Honev, 146. 
 .Telly 'Bags, 148. 
 Ironing Blanket and Sheet, 
 
 145. 
 Keep Tin and Copper clean, 
 
 143. 
 
 Kitchen, dirty, a Disgrace, 148. 
 Knives, to wash, 145. 
 Knives and Forks to keep 
 
 from rusting, 145. 
 Keeping Meats, 146. 
 Keep Onions from other 
 
 things, 143. 
 
 Lamps, to prevent from smell- 
 ing 144. 
 
 Lard, to melt, 147. 
 Lenionpeel Brandy, 145. 
 Legs of Mutton, cured, 146. 
 Marjoram, sweet, to dry, 144. 
 Molasses, to improve, 145. 
 Maxims, 143. 
 Mustard, to mix, 147. 
 Onions on Kopes, 148. 
 
 38 
 
 Orange or Lemon peel In Pots, 
 146. 
 
 Ox Gall, its use, 144. 
 
 Pastry, to bake, 148. 
 
 Place for every thing, 146. 
 
 Potatoes in Shortcakes, &c., 
 146. 
 
 Pudding Towels, 148. 
 
 Raisin Wine, 148. 
 
 Reindeer's Tongues, to imi- 
 tate, 145. 
 
 Roseleaves in Brandy, 145. 
 
 Sago, to prepare, 147. 
 
 Salt and Sperm Candles in 
 Starch, 145. 
 
 Shoulder of Veal economical, 
 145. 
 
 Soap, cut and dry, 146. 
 
 Soak soiled clothes, 145. 
 
 Stone on Meat in pickle, 145. 
 
 Stock Pot never empty, 146. 
 
 Smoking Meat, 146. 
 
 Stocks and Sauces, 148. 
 
 Suet, 147. 
 
 Surveillance of the Mistress 
 necessary, 148. 
 
 Tin and Wooden ware, 144 
 
 Tongue, to soak, 147. 
 
 True Economy of Housekeep- 
 ing, 144. 
 
 Towels in the Kitchen, 145. 
 
 Wax, to separate from Honey- 
 comb, 145. 
 Thyme, 132. 
 
 Tincture of Benzoin, 544 
 Tincture of Santal-citrin, 544 
 Tincture of Sassafras, 544 
 Tin Covers, to clean, 57 
 Tins, 574. 
 
 Tipperary Curry, 419. 
 Tipsy Cake, 4S3. 
 Toad in a Hole, 416. 
 Toast, Anchovy, 530. 
 Toast, German, 530. 
 Toast Ham, 530. 
 Toast Kidney, 530. 
 Toast Sausage, 530. 
 Toast Vegetable, 530. 
 Toast Water, 521. 
 Toilet, the, 537. 
 Tomatoes, 385. 
 Tomatoes, to stuff, 386. 
 Tomatoes, Garniture of, 242. 
 Tomatoes, Pickled, 397. 
 Tomatoes, to keep fresh, 507. 
 Tomatoes, Ripe or Green, to pre- 
 serve, 504. 
 Tomato Sauce, 226. 
 Tomato Sauce, Soyer's, 235. 
 Tomato Ketchup, 343. 
 Tomato Sauce, a T Italienne, 242. 
 Tomato Sauce, Francaiso, 242. 
 Tomatoes, Scolloped, 386. 
 Tomato Soup, 180, 183. 
 Tongues, Beef, 262. 
 Tongue, Beef, to cure, 257. 
 Tongue, Beef, to-dress. 257. 
 Tongue, Beef, fresh, 263. 
 Tongue, Beef, larded, 257. 
 Tongue, Beef, to eat cold, 262. 
 Tongue, Beef, and Udder, fresh, 
 
 263. 
 
 Tongues, to cure, 343. 
 Tongues, to carve, 112. 
 Tongues, Pork, 831. 
 Tongue, to roast, 262. 
 Tongue, to stew, 262. 
 Tongues, Pigs', 331. 
 
 Tongues and Tails, Sheep's, 308. 
 Tongues, Sheep's, 343. 
 Tongues, Sheep's, stewed, 305. 
 Tongues, Sheep's, with Turnips, 
 
 811. 
 Tongues, Sheep's with Cabbage, 
 
 Lettuces, 311. 
 Tooth Powder, 552. 
 Top Pot, 139. 
 Tops and Bottoms, 471. 
 Tortue, la. Soup, 173. 
 Tournee Sauce, 240. 
 Training of Children, 49. 
 Transparent Crust, 408. 
 Transparent Soap, 547. 
 Transparent Soup, 160. 
 Trifle, German, 4891 
 Trifles, Gooseberry or Apple, 4S9. 
 Trifles, 445. 
 
 Triple Esprit de Rose, 540. 
 Trotters, Sheep's, 309. 
 Trout, Stewed, 199. 
 Trout, in the Foreign mode, 198. 
 Trout, Roasted, 195. 
 Trout, Fried, 195. 
 Truffle, 138. 
 Truffles, 389. 
 
 Truffles with Champagne, 389. 
 Truffle Sauce, 229. 
 Truss Chickens, 105. 
 Truss Fowls, 105. 
 Truss a Goose, 104 
 Truss Hare or Rabbit, 106. 
 Trass Pheasants, 105. 
 Truss Pigeons, 106. 
 Trussing Poultry, 103. 
 Trussing Small Birds, 106. ' 
 Trussing a Turkey, 104. 
 Trussing Wild Fowl, 106. 
 Tumors, Pomade for, 564 
 Turbot a la Creme, 199. 
 Turesicus, 810. 
 Turkey, Boiled, 357. 
 Turkey, Boiled, braised, 353. 
 Turkey or Fowl, forced, 357. 
 Turkey Giblets, a. la Bourgeois, 
 
 3(57. 
 
 Turkey, Hashed, 857. 
 Turkey, with Sausage meat, 856. 
 Turkey, to roast, 35o. 
 Turkey with Sausage meat and 
 
 Tongues, 857. 
 Turkey Poult, 357. 
 Turkey, Pulled and grilled, 860. 
 Turkey, with flat Sausage Cake, 
 
 357. 
 
 Turkey, Roast, braised, 358. 
 Turkey, if old, 359. 
 Turkey, Roast or boiled, to carve. 
 
 113. 
 
 Turnips, 382. 
 Turnips, whole, 389. 
 Turnip Puree Soup, 184. 
 Turnips. Puree of, 8S9. 
 Turnips', with Duckling, 870. 
 Turtle, 212. 
 Turtle,, Eggs for, 247. 
 Turtle Soup, 171. 
 Twickenham Trout, 198, 
 Tying Down, 61. 
 Tying Parcels up, 77. 
 Tying Vessels over, 7. 
 
 Udder, Beef, 263. 
 Udder Farce, 244. 
 
602 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 University Eeceipt for Sausages, 
 
 324. 
 
 Unstoppering, 61. 
 Utensils, Culinary, 116. 
 
 Vanilla, 134. 
 
 Vanilla, Extract of, 541. 
 
 Vapor Bath, 564. 
 
 Vapor Alcoholique, 551. 
 
 Varnish for Mahogany, 567. 
 
 Veal, Breast of. to collar, 353. 
 
 Veal, Cervelles <le veau Fricassees, 
 
 289. 
 
 Veal, to choose, 56. 
 Veal, Blanquettes, 295. 
 Veal, Blonde of, 240. 
 Veal, Breast of, to carve, 109. 
 Veal, Breast of, 278. 
 Veal, Breast of, to stew, 278. 
 Veal, Breast of, forced, 278. 
 Veal Broth, 168, 170. 
 Veal Cake, 294. 
 Veal Collops, to dress quickly, 
 
 283. 
 
 Veal, Collops of, 281. 
 Veal, a la Chartreuse. 295. 
 Veal, cold Scollops of, 295. 
 Veal, Curry of, 298. 
 Veal, Currv, 287. 
 Veal Cutlets, 280. 
 Veal Cutlets and Celery, 284. 
 Veal Cutlets, Crumbed or plain, 
 
 280. 
 
 Veal Cutlets, curried, 280. 
 Veal Cutlets, a la Hollandaise, 284. 
 Veal Cutlets with White Sauce, 
 
 284. 
 
 Veal Cutlets, a la Maintenon, 281. 
 Veal Cutlets en papillotte, 283 
 Veal Cutlets and Rice, 284. 
 Veal Cutlets, another way, 280. 
 Veal, Fillet of, boiled, 277. 
 Veal, Fillet of, boiled, English, 
 
 Veaf Farcies, 284 
 
 Veal, Fillet of, to carve, 109. 
 
 Veal, Fillet of, roasted, 277. 
 
 Veal, Fillet of, to roast, 277. 
 
 Veal, Fricandels of, 286. 
 
 Veal, Fricandeau of, 286. 
 
 Veal. Galantine, 281, 287. 
 
 Veal Garniture en Ragoiit, 294 
 
 Veal Gravy, 220, 240. 
 
 Veal, Haricot of, 237. 
 
 Veal, Hashed, 282. 
 
 Veal, Knuckle, 278. 
 
 Veal, Knuckle of, to carve, 109. 
 
 Veal, Knuckle of, boiled, 278. 
 
 Veal, Knuckle of, stewed, 279. 
 
 Veal Liver and Bacon, fried, 289. 
 
 Veal, Loin, boiled, 278. 
 
 Veal, Loin, braised, 232. 
 
 Veal, Loin, roasted, 277. 
 
 Veal, Loin of, to carve, 109. 
 
 Veal, to marble, 295. 
 
 Veal, to mince, 296. 
 
 Veal, to mince, Turkish way, 296. 
 
 Veal, Miroton of, 286. 
 
 Veal, Neck of, to carve, 109. 
 
 Veal, Neck, braised, 279. 
 
 Veal, Neck, with new Potatoes, 
 
 279. 
 
 Veal, Neck, with Peas, 279. 
 Veal. Neck, stewed, 279. 
 Veal, Olives of, 287. 
 
 Veal Olives roti, 281. 
 
 Veal, Potted, 350, 354 
 
 Veal, Potted, 282. 
 
 Veal Potage, 171. 
 
 Veal and Poultry Sausages, 339. 
 
 Veal Puddinsrs, 415. 
 
 Veal, Queues of, 288. 
 
 Veal, Rolled, 285. 
 
 Veal Rolls, 295. 
 
 Veal, Scotch Collops, 283. 
 
 Veal, Shoulder of, 279. 
 
 Veal, Scollops of Sweetbreads, 
 292. 
 
 Veal, Shoulder of, to carve, 110. 
 
 Veal, Tendons of, 281. 
 
 Vegetable Soup, 179. 
 
 Vegetables, to keep, 55. 
 
 Vegetables for children, 529. 
 
 Vegetables for April, May, June, 
 July, 150. 
 
 Vegetables for August, Septem- 
 ber, October, November, 151. 
 
 Vegetables for December, 152. 
 
 Vegetables for January, February, 
 149. 
 
 Vegetable Marrow, 230. 
 
 Vegetables for March, 149. 
 
 Vehrate, the, 220, 241. 
 
 Veloute of Bechamel, 241. 
 
 Veloute Sauce, 220. 
 
 Veloute Soup, 178. 
 
 Venison, to choose, 57. 
 
 Venison, Fried, 374. 
 
 Venison, Hashed, 874. 
 
 Venison, Haunch of, to carve, 112. 
 
 Venison Haunch, 374 
 
 Venison Haunch Gravy, 220. 
 
 Venison, Neck of, to carve, 112. 
 
 Venison Pasty, 407. 
 
 Venison, Potted, 350. 
 
 Venison, Shoulder of, roasted, 375. 
 
 Venison, Shoulder of, stewed, 
 375. 
 
 Venison Soup, 171. 
 
 Venison Steaks, 374 
 
 Ventilation, 20, 582, 
 
 Verbena, Extract of, 541. 
 
 Verbena or Vervaine, 541. 
 
 Verjuice, 134. 
 
 Vermicelli, 451. 
 
 Vermicelli, au Lait, 526. 
 
 Vermicelli Puddings. 447. 
 
 Vermin, to destroy, 579. 
 
 Verviene, Extrait de, 541. 
 
 Vials, to wash, 576. 
 
 Victimized Cutlets, 337. 
 
 Victoria Punch, 514 
 
 Vinegar, Aromatic, 549. 
 
 Vinegar, Camp, 400. 
 
 Vinegar, Celery, 401. 
 
 Vinegar, Chili, 402. 
 
 Vinegar, Cider, 401. 
 
 Vinegar, Cucumber, 400. 
 
 Vinegar, Elderflower, 401. 
 
 Vinegar, Flavored, 401. 
 
 Vinegar, si Fleur d' Orange, 551. 
 
 Vinegar, Gooseberry, 402. 
 
 Vinegar, Henry's, 550. 
 
 Vinegar, Horseradish, 402. 
 
 Vinegar, for India Pickle, 400. 
 
 Vinegar Infusion of Flowers, 551. 
 
 Vinegar, Mint, 550. 
 
 Vinegar, Nasturtium, 401. 
 
 Vinegar, Raspberry, 401, 511. 
 
 Vinegar, a la Rose, 550. 
 
 Vinaigre, Rosat, 551. 
 
 Vinaigres, 551. 
 
 Vinaigres Scintilliques, 551. 
 
 Vinegar, Sugar, 401. 
 
 Vinegar, Thieves, 550. 
 
 Vinegar de Toilette, 550. 
 
 Vinaigre, Virginale, 550. 
 
 Vinegar, Walnut, 400. 
 
 Violet Essence, 539. 
 
 Violet Powder, 546. 
 
 Volatile Puree, 363. 
 
 Vol au Vent, 423, 430. 
 
 Vol au Vent of Croquettes, 424 
 
 Vol au Vent of Fruit, 431. 
 
 Vol au Vent of Green Gooseber- 
 ries, 431. 
 
 Vol au Vent of Orange, 431. 
 
 Vol au Vent of Peaches, 430. 
 
 Vol au Vent of Pigeons and Sweet- 
 breads, 424. 
 
 Vol au Vent, Rhubarb, 431. 
 
 Vol au Vent of Veal, 424 
 
 W, 
 
 Wafer Cakes, 470. 
 
 Waffles, Rice, 470. 
 
 Waffles, Soft, 470. 
 
 Wagner's Vanilla Ice Cream, 490. 
 
 Wagner's Lemon Ice Cream, 490. 
 
 Wagner's Strawberry Ice Cream, 
 
 491. 
 
 Wainscots, to clean, 576. 
 Waiting at Table, 101. 
 Walls, Papered, to clean, 578. 
 Walnut Ketchup, 243. 
 Warming House, 19. 
 Warts, to eradicate, 548. 
 Wash Balls, 544. 
 Wash colored things, 571. 
 Wassail Bowl, 512. 
 Water Cress, stewed, 888. 
 Water Ices, 491. 
 Water Gruel, 521. 
 Watermelon Rind, to preserve, 
 
 498. 
 
 Water, Purity of, 81. 
 Water Supply to towns, 80. 
 Waterproof Cements, 71. 
 Waterproof Shoes, to make, 578. 
 Wax Paper, 74 
 Weak Eyes, for, 564 
 Wedding Cake, 475. 
 Weights and Measures, 124 
 Welsh Rabbit, 456. 
 What We Eat, 79. 
 White Beans, Haricot, 887. 
 White Beans, Puree of, 386. 
 White Cream for Puree Sauce, 
 
 237. 
 
 White Cucumber Puree, 237. 
 White Lipsalve, 549. 
 White Lilac Essence, 587. 
 White Lace Veil, to wash, 574 
 White Portable Soup, 160. 
 White Rose, Essence of, 540. 
 White Roux, 228. 
 White Sauce, 214, 229, 230. 
 White Sauce for Chickens, 229 
 White Sauce, new, 236. 
 White Sauce, Soyer's, 232. 
 White Poultry Sauce, 229. 
 White Silk or Blonde Lace, to 
 
 wash, 572. 
 
 White Soup, 161, 163. 
 White Soup, Stock for, 156. 
 White Stock for Soup, 160. 
 White Thickening, 238. 
 White and Black Sausages, 327. 
 White Sausages, 325, 327, 340. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 603 
 
 White Thickening Sauce, 288. 
 Wild Birds, to carve, 115. 
 Wild Fowl Sauce, 232. 
 Wine, Blackberry, 514. 
 Wine, Black Currant, 515. 
 Wine, Cherry, 515. 
 Wine, Currant, 511. 
 Wine, Elder, 518. 
 Wine, Eltierflower, 516. 
 Wine, Ginger, 514. 
 Wine, Gooseberry, 516. 
 Wine, Green Gooseberry, 516. 
 Wine Jelly, Port, 519. 
 Wine of Mixed Fruits, 515. 
 Wine. Mulled 522. 
 Wine, to mull, 512. 
 
 Wine Posset, 521. 
 
 Wine Punch, 514. 
 
 Wine, Rhubarb, 515. 
 
 Wine, Valencia, 511. 
 
 Wine, Whey, 5'20. 
 
 Winter Green, 541. 
 
 Winter Green, Iceland, 541. 
 
 Winter Pea Soup, 182. 
 
 Winter Soup, 168. 
 
 Winter Squash, 385. 
 
 Winter Vegetable Soup, 184. 
 
 Work, Routine of, 42. 
 
 Writing, to take Impressions of, 
 
 569. 
 Writing on Glass, 63. 
 
 Yankee Apple Batter, 506. 
 Yeast Cakes, 465. 
 Yeast Dumplings, 450. 
 Yeast, to make, 465. 
 Yeast, Milk, 465. 
 Yorkshire Goose Pie, 422. 
 Yorkshire Pudding, 416, 43a 
 Ypocras, 513. 
 
 Zinc Ointment, 561 
 
 ASTHMA, 681. 
 
 Cold, apparent death from in- 
 tense, 586. 
 Corns, 581. 
 
 Dandruff, 581. 
 
 Drowning, restoration from, 
 
 585. 
 
 Flowers, to collect the odors of, 
 
 586. 
 Flow-ers, to crystallize, 554. 
 
 G 
 
 Glycerine Lotion, 582. 
 
 ADDEKDA. 
 
 Greek Fire, 588. 
 H 
 Hair Dressing, 566. 
 
 I 
 Intemperate Habits, to cure, 
 
 566. 
 Itching, 584. 
 
 Laundry Polish, 582. 
 Liniment, valuable, 584. 
 
 Piles, 583. 
 Pin Worms, 584. 
 Poisons and their Antidotes, 
 585. 
 
 B 
 
 Rat Poison, 581. 
 S 
 
 Syrups, Soda and Mineral Wa- 
 ter, 584. 
 
 Toe-Nails, ingrowing, 582. 
 Toothache Drops, 583. 
 
 Ventilation, Sunlight, and 
 Warm Clothing, 582. 
 
 W 
 
 Whooping Cough, 583. 
 
WmmieM, 
 
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 by over 100 full-page engravings and colored maps, with extensive 
 
 Chronological and other important Tables. 
 
 The Publisher is confident that this work will be regarded by intelligent readers, and es* 
 pecially by the lovers of Sacred Literature, as one of great interest and value. It presents, hi 
 a clear and beautiful style, a continuous history of the events embraced in the Sacred Record, 
 describing the manners, customs, and religions that prevailed in the different periods; narrat- 
 ing tiie numerous conflicts that marked the progress and decline of nations, and furnishing 
 biographical sketches of the individuals whose names are inscribed on the rolls of virtue and 
 fame. This volume comprises an amount of varied and useful information that cost the 
 author much labor and research, and which could be obtained from the original sources only 
 ut great expense. It is confidently commended as a book for the family circle, and especially 
 for those engaged in the work of Christian instruction. 
 
 The name of the Itev. ALVAN BOND, D.D., by whom the work is edited, and who is well 
 known as an accurate and accomplished Christian Scholar, is a sufficient guaranty that it is 
 one of real interest and merit. 
 
 The numerous Engravings and Colored Maps that are found in the volume not only add to 
 its beauty and attractiveness as embellishments, but illustrate, more accurately than words, 
 the ancient customs and scenes which they represent. 
 
 This work is approved and commended by all denominations of Christians. The success of 
 Agents who have commenced to canvass for it, has exceeded the Publisher's most sanguine 
 expectations, and experienced Agents say they never knew a book to sell so well. Some of 
 the Agents are selling from twenty to forty copies in a day. Over One Thousand copies have 
 been sold in Norwich, Conn., where the Editor resides. This great success of Agents has so 
 encouraged the l*ublisher that he has put to press, on the finest paper, over $-100,000 worth of 
 this work, to be immediately followed by other editions. 
 
 These large editions require nearly one hundred and fifty tons of paper,, and require six 
 months to print it on five large power-presses. 
 
 This great work we design to place beside the Bible in every family in the land- 
 
 For an Agency for this book, application should be made immediately, as the territory is 
 being rapidly engaged. For further information, apply to the publisher, naming townships 
 preferred in the order of your preference. 
 
 BILL, Norwich, Conn. 
 
 (704) 
 
Kitto's Illustrated History of the Bible. 
 
 From Rev. Leonard Bacon, D.I>. 
 
 Any book in explanation of the Bible, from the 
 learned Dr. Kitto, must be valuable. The Rev. 
 Dr. Bond, I cannot doubt, will add to the value 
 of Kitto's " History of the Bible," in the pro- 
 posed American edition. 
 
 LEONARD BACON. 
 
 New Haven. 
 
 From Rev. Theo. I*. Cnyler, .!>. 
 
 I so much approve of this " Illustrated His- 
 tory of the Holy Bible," that I wish it might be 
 laid beside the Blessed Book of which it treats, 
 in thousands of dwelling. 
 
 THEO. L. CUTLER, 
 Pastor Lafayette Avenue Church. 
 Brooklyn, N.Y. 
 
 From Rev. John P. Gulliver, !>.!>. 
 
 Kitto's " Illustrated History of the Bible " 
 appears to be a narration of the facts recorded 
 in the Scriptures, with the addition of a brief 
 history of events down to the destruction of 
 Jerusalem, written in a simple and attractive 
 stylei and free from the minuteness of detail 
 which often renders more recondite works unfit 
 for popular use. It seems specially adapted to 
 the wants of Sabbath schools and Bible classes. 
 The names of the author and editor furnish an 
 ample guaranty of the trustworthiness of the 
 work. JOHN P. GULLIVER, 
 
 Pastor of New-England Church, Chicago. 
 
 From Rev. M. Emory Wright. 
 
 " The Illustrated History of the Holy Bible 
 has already been of great service to me in my 
 studies of the Holy Scriptures. It presents the 
 narrative portion of the divine word in a simple 
 and easy, yet highly fascinating style, besides 
 interweaving many historical facts and explana- 
 tions, which throw great light upon the mean- 
 ing of the sacred text. 
 
 M. EMORY WRIGHT, 
 Pastor 1st Methodist Episcopal Church, 
 Newburyport, Mast. 
 
 From Rev. O. H. Gonld. 
 
 No modern writer has contributed more large- 
 ly to enrich the biblical literature of our time, 
 or to clothe with a fresh and living interest the 
 main personages and incidents in Old Testament 
 history, than John Kitto. The present volume 
 "History of the Bible" bears all the marks 
 of his wide learning, patient and accurate 
 scholarship, fervent piety, and graceful and 
 popular style. The .book is amply and finely il- 
 lustrated, and edited by a competent American 
 scholar, Rev. Alvan Bond, D.D., of Norwich. 
 It deserves a wide circulation among all who 
 love and prize the Bible. G. H. GOULD, 
 
 Pastor 1st Cong. Church, Hartford, Conn. 
 
 From Rev. Benjamin Adams. 
 
 I have examined " The Illustrated History of 
 the Bible" with great pleasure. In my opinion 
 it is a book well qualified to do good, especially 
 among the young and those who have not time 
 for more careful and lengthy study of the great 
 works on the Bible. Yours, 
 
 BENJAMIN ADAMS, 
 Pastor of Fleet Street M. E. Church. 
 Brooklyn, N.Y. 
 
 From Rev. 6. E. Thrall. 
 
 Dr. Kitto being widely known as a learned 
 and judicious historian of the Scriptures, I can 
 safely recommend his work upon the Bible to my 
 people as a valuable aid in their studies of tha 
 sacred Word. GEORGE E. THRALL, 
 
 Rector of the Church of the Messiah. 
 Clinton Ave., Brooklyn, N.Y. 
 
 From Rev. R. S. Storm, .!>. 
 
 "The Illustrated History of the Bible," by 
 Dr. Kitto, edited by Dr. Bond, contains a great 
 amount of valuable matter in a small compass, 
 and will be found, by those who study it, very 
 helpful to a clear and large understanding of th* 
 scriptural narrative. R. 8. STORKS, JOT. 
 
 Brooklyn, N.Y. 
 
JUST PUBLISHED. 
 
 THE 
 
 PEOPLE'S 
 
 Illustrated Bible History. 
 
 BEING 
 
 A Simple and Attractive Account of the Great Events mentioned in the 
 OLD AND NEW TESTAMENTS. 
 
 COMPRISING ALSO 
 
 THE LIVES OF THE PATEIAECHS, 
 
 ,ATTP HIS -A-ZPOSTHiIE 
 
 AND OF THE 
 
 Eemarkable "Women and Children mentioned in the Sacred Volume. 
 
 Each Section closing with Appropriate Moral Reflections. 
 
 ALSO AN 
 
 APPENDIX, 
 
 INSTRUCTIVE TABLES AND OTHER VALUABLE MATTER, 
 
 WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY THE AMERICAN EDITOR, 
 
 . ALVAN BOISTD, D.D., 
 
 Late Pastor of the Second Congregational Church in Norwich, Conn. 
 
 Illustrated by Numerous Elegant Steel Engravings oy the Most Eminent Artists. 
 
 ACCOMPANIED BY AN ACCURATE 
 
 MAP OF THE COUNTRIES OF THE BIBLE. 
 
 This is a book that every Christian parent will desire to place in the hands of his children. In 
 Its style, it happily unites that natural simplicity that will engage the attention of the youngest read- 
 ers, and that fulness of thought which will command the interest of the older. Instead of the cheap 
 cuts that abound in many books, this work is richly and beautifully illustrated with the finest steel 
 engravings, by the very best artistic skill of the country. The Publisher has spared no labor or 
 expense to make this work both valuable, and in the highest degree attractive. A Prospectus Book, 
 for taking orders, is now ready, which shows in a condensed and convenient form the various attrac- 
 tions and merits of the work. I would, however, recommend to Agents to take a sample copy of 
 the book with the Prospectus, as it cannot fail to interest all who may see it. 
 
 This work will contain about six hundred octavo pages, in double columns, printed from new 
 electrotype plates, on superfine white paper, embellished and illustrated with the finest and most 
 cpstly steel and other engravings that can be executed in this country, together with a map of all the 
 countries of the Bible. , . 
 
 For an Agency, apply immediately to the Publisher, 
 
 BILL, 
 Norwich, Conn. 
 
JUST PUBLISHED. 
 
 THE NEW 
 
 Cyclopedia of Domestic Economy 
 
 AND 
 
 PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPING. 
 
 A D APTED to all classes of society ; comprising subjects connected with the inter- 
 4** ests of every family, such as 
 
 DOMESTIC EDUCATION, HOUSES, FURNITURE, DUTIES OF MISTRESS AND DOMESTICS, 
 THE STOREHOUSE, MARKETING, TABLE AND ATTENDANCE, CARE AND TRAINING 
 OF CHILDREN, CARE OF THE SICK, PREPARATION OF FOOD FOR CHIL- 
 DREN AND INVALIDS, PRESERVATION OF HEALTH, DOMESTIC 
 MEDICINE, THE ART OF COOKERY, PERFUMERY, THE 
 TOILET, COSMETICS, AND 
 
 FIVE THOUSAND PRACTICAL RECEIPTS AND MAXIMS 
 
 From the best English, French, German, and American sources. 
 
 EDITED BY MRS. E. P. ELLET, 
 
 Author of " The Women of the American Revolution," &c., &c. 
 
 The Whole Illustrated with over Two Hundred Engravings. 
 
 Every housekeeper experiences more or less difficulty in settling many of the ques- 
 tions that arise in the management of a house. This book will furnish much needed in- 
 formation on all the subjects connected with Domestic Life, and is designed to meet 
 every want in the varied range of household matters. 
 
 Parents and Guardians will here find much to instruct and guide them in the care of 
 their children in health and in sickness. 
 
 Many of the original receipts and directions contained in this valuable work have 
 been furnished to the editor by American housekeepers of long experience and tried 
 skill, and proprietors of celebrated establishments in New York, such as Delmonico, 
 Taylor, Wagner, and others. 
 
 It is believed to be the largest and most complete system of Domestic Economy ever 
 published in this country. 
 
 It is intended for utility, and to satisfy a universal want. It only needs to be con- 
 sulted to become an indispensable companion and guide to every lady who has charge 
 of a household. 
 
 Some of the original receipts in this book have been sold in private hands at ten 
 dollars each. 
 
 No family should be without this great work, 
 
 * # * For an Agency, apply immediately to the Publisher, 
 
 HENRY BILL, Norwich, Conn. 
 
THE HISTORY 
 
 OF THE 
 
 CIVIL WAR IN AMERICA, 
 
 (ISSUED Df THE ENGLISH AJsD GERMAN LANGUAGES,) 
 
 COMPRISING A 
 
 Full and Impartial Account of the Origin and Progress of the Rebellion, 
 
 of the various Naval and Military Engagements, of the Heroic 
 
 Deeds performed by Armies and Individuals, and of 
 
 Touching Scenes in the Field, the Camp, 
 
 the Hospital, and the Cabin. 
 
 BY J. S. 0. ABBOTT, OF NEW HAVEN, CONN., 
 
 AUTHOR or THE " LIKE OF NAPOLEON;" "HISTORY OF THE FRENCH KEVOLUTION ;" " MONARCHIC! 
 OK CONTINENTAL EUROPE," ETC. 
 
 Illustrated with Maps, Diagrams, and numerous Steel Engravings of Battle 
 Scenes, from original Designs by Dariey, and other eminent Artists, and over 60 
 Portraits on Steel of Distinguished Men from both North and South. 
 
 This work, complete in two volumes of over 1,100 large Royal Octavo pages, is 
 iow ready for delivery ; and it is also issued complete in one volume of over 1,100 
 >ages, and the Agents can now 'take subscribers for the whole work, either in one 
 volume or two. 
 
 The author of this great work is well known by all literary men, as one of the 
 most talented and popular historical writers, and his History of the Great Rebellion 
 will not bo surpassed in merit and attractiveness by any other that may be offered 
 to the public. Numerous Maps and Diagrams are interspersed through the book. 
 
 The Illustrations are all from original designs, engraved on steel, by the best 
 Artists, expressly for the work, and comprise Portraits of Distinguished Command 
 ere and Civilians, both North and South, with the prominent Battle Scenes of Sea 
 and Land. 
 
 Trusting the reader will regard this work as one of superior importance and 
 value, and as eminently worthy a place in every library and family in the land, the 
 Publisher with entire confidence solicits your influence in giving it the widest 
 possible circulation. You will confer a favor by speaking of the work among your 
 friends, and also by showing this Circular to some acquaintance who would be likely 
 to engage in its distribution. 
 
 This is the best History of the War yet published, and has had the largest sale 
 of any book on the war. More than 300,000 volumes have been subscribed for, 
 requiring 375 tons of paper. Subscribers for the work who have obtained the first vol- 
 ume, but who have failed to see the Agent, may obtain the second volume by addressing 
 the Publisher, 
 
 EENBY BILL, Norwich, ConiL 
 
JUST ISSUED. 
 
 WASHINGTON AND HIS TIMES: 
 
 EMBRACING A 
 
 HISTORY OF THE SEVEN YEARS' WAR, 
 
 THE 
 
 THE 
 
 POEMATION OP THE FEDERAL CONSTITUTION, 
 
 AND THE 
 
 ADMINISTRATIONS OF WASHINGTON, 
 
 EXHIBITING THE DARING EXPLOITS AND HEROIC ENDURANCE OF THE NOBLE PATRIOTS 
 WHO WON OUR LIBERTIES AND ESTABLISHED OUR INDEPENDENCE. 
 
 "WITH 
 
 Containing Maxims of Washington, the Declaration of Independence, the Articles of Confederation, 
 the Constitution of the United States, and Washington's Farewell Address. 
 
 EDITED BY REV. WILLIAM HUTCHISON, A. M. 
 
 Principal of the Ngrwich Free Academy, Norwich, Conn. 
 
 The book is a large octavo of over 600 pages, illustrated with nearly 100 Engravings on Steel and 
 Wood, comprising Battle Scenes, the Costumes of the Times, Portraits of Washington and his Generals, 
 views of noted Buildiags, the homes of Distinguished Men, Mount Vernon and the Tomb of Washington 
 as it now appears. 
 
 This work is also enriched with the "Maxims of Washington," being hia wise utterances on a great 
 variety of subjects, collected and arranged by the Editor; together with the Declaration of Independence, 
 the Articles of Confederation, the Constitution of the United States, and Washington's Farewell Address. 
 
 A Prospectus Book, showing samples of the pages, Engravings, &c., is now ready, and Agents can 
 canvass with it, or carry a sample of the book itself. I would recommend to Agents to take a copy of the 
 book with the Prospectus, as its attractive appearance will induce very many to subscribe. 
 
 If you desire an appointment as Agent, please apply in person, if convenient ; if not, remit in cash or 
 money order, $5.00 for a sample copy of the book, and a complete outfit for canvassing, which will be 
 forwarded by mail, postage paid. 
 
 In applying for territory, name half a dozen towns in the order of your choice, and I will give you 
 your first choice if possible ; if not, the nearest not engaged. If the territory is not granted, the money 
 will be promptly returned. Please state your experience, if any, in the business, with what book, and your 
 Buccess ; also your age and previous occupation. 
 
 Cities or large villages are not recommended for new beginners. All books not sold may be returned 
 within three months, if in good condition. 
 
 For an Agency, apply immediately to the Publisher, fc 
 
 HENRY BILL, 
 
 NORWICH, GOUT*. 
 
A PICTORIAL 
 
 ustorg 0f tfje 
 
 CONTAINING A GENERAL VIEW OF ALL THE VARIOUS NATIONS, 
 STATES, AND REPUBLICS OP THE 
 
 WESTERN CONTINENT; 
 
 Comprising the early Discoveries by the Spanish, French, and other Navigator^ 
 an account of the American Indians, and a 
 
 I 
 
 COMPLETE HISTORY OF THE UNITED STATES TO THE PRESENT TIME, 
 
 Including the French and Indian Wars, the War of the Revolution, that of 1812, 
 the late War with Mexico, and embracing the brilliant career of WASHINGTON, 
 WAYNE, JACKSON, TAYLOR, SCOTT, GRANT, and SHERMAN, and their compatriots, 
 and a 
 
 Complete History of the Rebellion to its Close. 
 
 With an Appendix, containing important Public Documents, and closing with 
 extensive and valuable Statistical Tables. 
 
 EDITED BY 
 
 JOHN LED YARD DENISON, A.M., 
 
 AUTHOR OB* THE "PICTORIAL HISTORY OF THE WAKS ;" "PICTORIAL NAVAL HISTORY ;* 
 " TIIE NEW WORLD," IN GEKMAN, ETC. 
 
 The whole illustrated with over Three Hundred Ennra ings, some of which are 
 beautifully Colored by hand, true to Nature, consisting of Battle Scenes, Views of 
 Cities, Flags of the various Nations, Prominent Events, and Portraits of Distin 
 guished Men, from designs by LOSSING, CROOME, DEVERAUX, and other celebrated 
 American Artists. 
 
 In one large octavo volume, containing about 900 pages, and illustrated with over 
 300 Engravings, some of which are Steel, and many beautifully colored by hand, 
 true to Nature, and will be bound in embossed and gilt leather binding, with 
 marbled edges. 
 
 This work was so well received, that already it has been translated into the Ger- 
 man Language, under the title of Illustrated New World (see opposite page), and 
 about 20,000 copies sold in the German Language in this country alone, and large 
 orders have been received from Germany, for the work in their language. 
 
 For an Agency, apply to the Publisher, 
 
 HENRY BILL, Norwich, Conn, 
 

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