THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 RIVERSIDE 
 
 lix Ijbns 
 C:. K. OGDEN
 
 TENT LIFE "WITH ENGLISH GIPSIES IN NORWAY. 
 
 By Hi'BERT Smith In Svo. cloth. Five full-page Engravings, and 
 Thirty-one smaller Illustrations, with Map of the Country showing Routes. 
 .Second Edition. Revised and Corrected. Price 2i.v. 
 
 "Written in a vtry lively stjMe, and Um 
 throut;houl .1 smack ('f <lr>' humour and satiric 
 reflection which >hi>ws the writer In l>c a keen 
 observer of men and thini;s. \N'c hope that 
 many will rcid it and bnd in it the same 
 amusement as ourselves." — Titnts. 
 
 " If any of our readers think of scr.ipin|| 
 •n acquaintance with Norw-ay. let them read 
 this book. . . . The cn^'ravin^fs from the hand 
 of Mr. IMward \V hyniper, arc excellent. . . . 
 The Kip'.ic. alw.iys an iriereMini; study, 
 becunic douMy iMterestni>: when we are, as in 
 these pai;c>, introLluccd to Ihcm in their ilaily 
 walk aiiu conversation.**— ^.tarnj/icr 
 
 Mr Sn 
 
 can 
 witli 
 
 so frank with us ih.-it we 
 Ml. Mi(\ his perfect frankness, 
 I dct:ille<l de-<.riliti..n, ijives 
 the ..•Ikt men ' • 
 
 ril his 
 
 par:; us foll.iw their iMrluiics with 
 
 » cefiaiM iii!ri-'.t . . . He seems blessed with a 
 t-richt nature and easy temper, and a knack of 
 mabint; the very best of evcr>'lhinR. . . . The 
 sketches with which its pat^es arc profusely j 
 illuttraled are all life-like, and many of them | 
 extremely spirited."— 5a/«rrf<ij' Krvirw. 1 
 
 A • inin and amutin^ anecdotes 
 
 of t) .1 traits of char.icter of the 
 
 wan s. . . . In .idiliii'into these 
 
 def.u . . .1 few particulars tf the Nor- 
 
 wcKuii:, thctti^ivcs, together with some slrikine 
 detcriptionsof Norwegian scenery. . . The book 
 
 contains some very well executed ent^ravinn of 
 NonvcRian villages and landscapes." — Daily 
 .\'nvs. 
 
 •' The work is copiously illustrated, not 
 merely in name but in fact, and there will be 
 few who will not peruse it with jilcasurc.'* — 
 Standard, 
 
 " Much may be nathercd from the volume 
 as to the cuuutry traversed and its people. . . 
 The illustrations and route-map are excellent." 
 —Grafhu . 
 
 " ^^■e have read the book with considerable 
 interest, as very lively and .iniu>int; journals of 
 travellers. . . The sketches, winch arc by 
 Mr. Whymper, are exceedingly charminc^, and 
 serve t(rcatly to enh.ince the value of the book." 
 / 'amty Fair. 
 
 " The wild scenery and wilder people to 
 whom the reader is introduced, and the easy 
 unaifected manner in which the narrative is tolci, 
 combine to make the book a thorouffhly pleasant 
 one.*' — /:f/tf. 
 
 " An excellent record of life antl .idventure 
 amonf^ some of the jjraiulesl scenery in b'.urope. 
 ... An important contribution to uur philo- 
 logical knowledge, and an invaluable guide to 
 tourists who intend to 'do' Horway.' — Court 
 7our,uU. 
 
 " Occidedly amusing. . . . Few persons 
 will rise from the perusal without acknowlcdgine 
 the spirit and pluck of the yir\lct."—Bcirs Li/t. 
 
 HitNRV S. King & Co., 65 Cornhill, and i2 Paternostck Row, London
 
 WAYSIDE NOTES IN SCANDINAVIA
 
 ^i_c 
 
 WAYSIDE NOTES 
 
 IN SCANDINAVIA 
 
 By mark ANTONY LOWER, M.A.. F.S.A. 
 
 KFI.t.OW OF THE SOCIETIRS t)K ANTIQUAKIF.S OF NORMANDY, NEWCASTLE 
 
 I'I'ON TVNE, AND AMERK A ; AND I. ATE F.S.A. OF LONDON ; MEMBER 
 
 OF THE ACADEMY OF SCIENCES OF CAEN, ETC. ETC. 
 
 Henry S. King & Co. 
 
 65 CORNHILL, AND 12 PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON. 
 1874.
 
 ^/7 
 
 1 All righls rttrrvfJ
 
 TO CHARLES SCRASE-DICKINS, Ei^Q. 
 
 M.A., J.I'., KTC. ETC. 
 
 OK COOLHURST, SUSSEX, 
 
 (representative of the oldest DANISH FAMILY IN 
 ENGLAND,) 
 
 IHE FOLLOWING PAGES ARE RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED 
 vj BY HIS MUCH OBLIGED, HUMBLE SERVANT, 
 
 MARK ANTONY LOWER. 
 
 London, isi July 1874. 
 
 . »
 
 Those who have not carefully studied the 
 complex character of our English nationality, 
 are not aware how much we are indebted to 
 the Scandinavian peoples, the Danes, the Nor- 
 wegians, and the Swedes. Every intelligent 
 reader of course knows that the earliest ascer- 
 tained people of the land were the Celts, the 
 KeXroL of the classical writers, but I do not think 
 that many have duly considered how much we 
 are indebted to the Scandinavians, both in naval 
 and military affairs, and in the formation of 
 the manners and habits of the people, and of 
 the language. 
 
 I hope these Notes will assist many who 
 d
 
 viii Preface. 
 
 have not visited those northern shores in a due 
 recog-nition of that obhcration. 
 
 I wish our modern tourists, instead of sticking 
 to the old beaten tracks of travel, would some- 
 times go a little a-field, and visit less frequented 
 highways. It appears that they find it neces- 
 sary to follow in the same path that their 
 fathers and friends have gone, like so many 
 geese on a village green, and ' do ' what 
 others have ' done ;' their principal object seem- 
 ing to be, besides a holiday trip (which they 
 may as well enjoy on British ground as else- 
 where, without crossing the iian'ozo seas), to 
 'hold up a corner' in a chit-chat in fashionable 
 drawing-rooms. 
 
 Now, if my health and pecuniary means 
 would permit, I would go into the ])yways 
 instead of the highways of Europe, which 
 not one in a hundred thousand Englishmen 
 seems to care anything about. Just glance 
 over a map, and see what a vast expanse of
 
 Preface. ix 
 
 land is a terra incoznita, almost untrodden 
 by the English foot. How little is known of 
 Lithuania, of Ukraine, of Wallachia, of the 
 shores of the Dneiper, the Don, and the Volga, 
 districts known only to the laborious few, but as 
 little understood by the many as the ' Cannibal 
 Islands ' or the ' Mountains of the Moon.' 
 
 Let me entreat such to go to Scandinavia, 
 and spend two or three months, say in May, 
 June, and July, in those pleasant, hospitable 
 countries, and I assure them they will not be 
 less pleased than if they had been ' up the 
 Rhine,' climbed the Alps (bringing home 
 their alpenstock as a trophy^), or even to that 
 Queen of Cities, Rome itself 
 
 ^ I rather suspect that I have seen ' alpenstocks ' in halls and 
 drawing-rooms that have never crossed a mountain of any kind 
 at all !
 
 WAYSIDE NOTES IN SCANDINAVIA 
 
 HISTORICAL, ARCHAEOLOGICAL, 
 LEGENDARY, AND SOCIAL. 
 
 On a fine Saturday evening in July 1873. 
 my wife and I, departing from a suburb of 
 London, went to the famous town of Wapping, 
 and took state-rooms on board the 'Valdemar,' 
 a large Danish steamer. She is a fine vessel, 
 and on this occasion carried about 1200 tons 
 of merchandise. 
 
 I had a threefold object in this tour : first, 
 the restoration of my health, which had been 
 very indifferent for several months ; secondly, 
 to show my wife the country of her ancestors, 
 who by a credible tradition were of Danisli 
 descent, having settled in England about the
 
 2 Wayside Notes 
 
 time of Canute the Great (she was n^e Scrase, in 
 Danish »>krflacr) ; thirdly, because I had long 
 wished to visit the land of the Vikings, so much 
 connected with our early ancestors, and who, 
 robbers and pirates though they were, did more 
 for the naval supremacy of England than all 
 other influences put together. 
 
 Our good ship was of Newcastle build, and 
 commanded by Captain Petersen. She is named 
 after Valdemar ii,, surnamed The Victorious, 
 King of Denmark in the thirteenth century. 
 
 We steamed out of port at ten o'clock on 
 Sunday morning, and besides the pleasure of 
 a passage down the Thames, had a delightful 
 view of many familiar scenes on both sides of 
 tlie river. After a few hours in the North Sea, 
 we saw the most glorious sunset that eye could 
 rest on. 
 
 ' Sometimes wc sec a cloud that 's dragonish, 
 A vajiour sometimes like a bear or lion,' 
 
 and I distinctly saw a portrait of the head of
 
 in Scandinavia. 3 
 
 my little Chinese dog ' Ching.' The colours of 
 the western sky varied from vermilion to car- 
 mine, and so on down to the deepest crimson. 
 Even Turner in his wildest imagfinino^s could 
 never have touched that scene. It was the 
 grandest spectacle of nature I ever beheld.^ 
 
 We soon lost sight of land, but we felt quite 
 at home. The passengers were ten gentlemen 
 and three ladies — Danish, Swiss, and English. 
 We were all soon as friendly and intimate as if 
 we had known each other for years. A gentle- 
 man named Peckham, born in Kent, but long re- 
 sident at Copenhagen, was unanimously elected 
 our chief, as he was full of fun and humour, 
 and kept us in a continual state of hilarity. 
 During the days of our voyage we used to meet 
 
 * Hamlet. Do you see that cloud, that 's almost in shape like a 
 camel ? 
 Polonius. By the mass, and 'tis like a camel indeed ! 
 Ham. Methinks it is like a weasel. 
 Pol. It is ^rr^r/Y^like a weasel. 
 Ham. Or like a whale ? 
 Pol. Very like a whale ! — Hamlet^ Act ill. Scene 2.
 
 4 IVayside Notes 
 
 on deck about nine in the evening, and remain 
 till midnight, relating anecdotes, cracking jokes, 
 and singing songs, Danish, English, Irish, and 
 Scotch. I never met with so merr)- a party 
 before. They all sang the air of the tunes, except 
 myself, and I was obliged to * vamp in ' a little 
 of my bass. 
 
 No incident of interest occurred, except the 
 occasional meeting with a gallant steamer com- 
 ing southward. We also saw what I had never 
 seen before — a pair of black sea-ducks, swim- 
 ming side by side, many leagues from the 
 shore. In due time we reached the Skager 
 Rack (called by our Jack Tars 'The Sleeve,' 
 on account of its singular bend), and then the 
 Cattegat. We arrived on the fourth da)-, after 
 getting a peep of the shores of Jutland, at 
 Elsinore, where we found vessels of many 
 nations. It is the Land's I'^iid of Denmark. 
 Some of us disembarked thcrt\ while others 
 proceeded straight to Copenhagen.
 
 in Scandinavia. 5 
 
 Now, Elsinore disappointed us. True it is 
 that Elsinore is a fine old town, with many 
 historical associations, and many relics of by- 
 gone ages. Kronborg Castle, now of no im- 
 portance as a fortress, is an imposing structure 
 of quadrangular form, with four towers, one of 
 which serves as a lighthouse. The building 
 dates from 1574 to 1585, and is a good speci- 
 men of the Renaissance style of the time of 
 Frederik 11. The view of it either from land 
 or sea is extremely grand and romantic. The 
 castle contains a good collection of pictures by 
 modern Danish masters, and the prospect of the 
 sea from the windows is delightful. The chapel, 
 which has recently been restored, is worth a 
 visit. 
 
 Northward of the town is Marienlyst, once a 
 royal marine residence, but now belonging to 
 a popular sea-bathing establishment — in short, 
 a miniature Brighton. On a terrace behind 
 they show you what they call the Grave of
 
 6 U'aysidc Notes 
 
 Hamlet, a grove of trees within which some 
 cunning genius, a good many years ago, placed 
 a frao^ment of a column to indicate the orrave. 
 This has now been removed, and a kind of ^^zV;; 
 of loose stones covers the spot. Nevertheless 
 credulous Englishmen think they have seen 
 Hamlet's grave, and bring away a stone from 
 the heap as a trophy! Caroline- Mathiklc in- 
 habited apartments here before her removal to 
 Hanover, and her rooms are still open to 
 visitors. 
 
 I said we were disappointed with Elsinore ; 
 it was because we found no trace of Hamlet 
 there. Indeed, many Danish savatis treat that 
 personage as a ni) th, and say that if ever he 
 existed it was in Jutland about the ninth cen- 
 tury. Shakspeare, with his usual anachron- 
 isms, makes him live since the introduction 
 of gunpowder and cannon. 
 
 When the stor)- of I lamlet's grave was pretty 
 well established, curious visitors inquired for
 
 in Scandinavia. 7 
 
 Ophelia's fatal brook, and this was shown near 
 the Marienlyst garden. It is a tiny stream, hardly 
 large enough for a duck to swim in, and how 
 our heroine manag-ed to drown herself in it is a 
 mystery. Altogether, Elsinore is ' the play of 
 Hamlet, with t\\& part of Hamlet left out!' 
 
 Now as we are safely landed in Scandinavia, 
 I shall proceed to remind my ' gentle reader ' of 
 a few historical and geographical facts which 
 may have escaped his recollection. Any one 
 looking at a map of Europe will see that the 
 peninsula of Scandinavia should form one poli- 
 tical commonwealth, or rather kingdom, and this 
 was originally the case. The severance of 
 Sweden and Norway from Denmark took place 
 long- agfo, and there seems to be no chance of 
 their reunion, nor would it perhaps be desir- 
 able, for several reasons. Poor little Denmark, 
 hemmed in on the east by Sweden, and by Nor- 
 way on the west, and deprived of its adjuncts
 
 8 JVayside Notes 
 
 Schleswig and Holstein by the tyranny of ' Pious 
 William' of Prussia, and his master, Bismarck, is 
 now one of the smallest states in Europe ;yet it 
 flourishes still, and God grant that it may always 
 do so ; though I was informed by some sound 
 Danish politicians that Bismarck could at any 
 time annex Denmark to the so-called 'Empire' 
 of Germany. Let England and France see to 
 that ! I will never acknowledsfe William as an 
 Emperor, nor Bismarck as a Prince, for neither 
 of them has a rightful claim to such a title. 
 
 More of the geography and history of Scan- 
 dinavia hereafter. Denmark is well governed, 
 and, so far as I could ascertain, King Christian ix. 
 is highly esteemed by all right-minded people, 
 though of course those of the ' baser sort ' some- 
 times exhibit disloyalty ; as was the case a few 
 days after wc left Copenhagen, when all the 
 police of the city had to be called in to put 
 down a semi-revolutionary mob. 
 
 Ill Sweden and Norway King Oscar ii. is
 
 in Scandinavia. 9 
 
 very popular, A correspondent of the English 
 Standard, writing from Stockholm on August 
 II, 1873, says:— 
 
 * The Norwegian Official Gazette of yesterday 
 gives the report of a remarkable speech which 
 the King made at the festivities given in his 
 honour a few days ago at Stafsskogen. The 
 speech resumes in few words the political pro- 
 gramme of Oscar 11., and affords a worthy 
 specimen of the manner in which a Scandina- 
 vian Sovereign understands his duties as his 
 people's leader. 
 
 ' His Majesty's words were these : — 
 ' To-day is the last day of my long journey. 
 I have visited the various parts of this kingdom, 
 and the Queen has at the same time travelled 
 through parts of the realm where no Queen ever 
 set her foot before. Everywhere we came the 
 people have greeted us with love, as we met 
 them in love and in confidence, rejoicing in the 
 feeling that the people look up to the Royal
 
 lo IVayside Notes 
 
 House with loyal attachment and hdelit)-. My 
 family and I have been still more confirmed in 
 our love to this beautiful country, which from 
 my earliest childhood I have learnt to cherish 
 and esteem more and more. 
 
 ' Norway is a happy country' ; indeed, the two 
 sister countries are the happiest countries I 
 know. I would resume in three words the three 
 good things which I consider to constitute the 
 happiness of this country — they are Peace, the 
 Union, and Liberty, 
 
 ' Peace is a precious thing, and Norway has. 
 thanks to God, been long enjoying its blessings ; 
 but it is necessary that we preserve our forces, 
 and that we do not in the good times when nature 
 showers her gifts upon us, allow ourselves to be 
 absorbed by our cares about them, antl degraded 
 down to materialistic idolatr)-. In the days of 
 peace we ought to prepare ourselves for the time 
 when an enemy may threaten tlic independence 
 of our country, and it is the duty of every good
 
 /;/ Scandinavia. 1 1 
 
 citizen to keep himself ready to defend his 
 Fatherland.' 
 
 ' In the union with Sweden, another free and 
 independent country, Norway has a guarantee 
 for a long and lasting peace. May the two 
 peoples join hands without suspicion! They 
 are now going on side by side in prosperity and 
 increasing wealth, and while keeping their inde- 
 pendence they will unite as brothers more and 
 more closely together, and, if necessary, stand 
 strong and united against any foe. 
 
 ' Liberty is a blessing; but it ought not to be a 
 Spanish liberty, but a Norwegian liberty, worthy 
 of a community which above everything bows 
 down in respect to God — not a lawless but a 
 law-bound liberty. Obedience to the law has 
 of old been characteristic of the Norwegian 
 people, and it is the duty of every one, from 
 the King down to the humblest citizen, to obey 
 the laws rigorously. Most specially have we 
 to defend the constitution of the realm, and pro-
 
 12 IVayside Notes 
 
 tect it against one-sided party spirit I drink 
 to the health of our Fatherland — our old be- 
 loved Norway. 
 
 ' It is too little to say that the King's words 
 were received with respectful silence ; it was 
 rather a solemn emotion that painted itself on 
 the faces of the listening crowd while his Majesty 
 was speaking in that clear and musical voice 
 the peculiar charm of which will never be for- 
 gotten by those who have once heard it. The 
 topics on which he dwelt are matters of vital 
 interest for both countries. Reorganization of 
 the army, and a closer union between Sweden 
 and Norway are the two great reforms which 
 must be made sooner or later if we wish to keep 
 ourselves independent of the political commo- 
 tions which shake so fatally the continent of 
 Europe. Iwery true lover of his couiUr)- looks 
 forward to King Oscar's governiiK-nl to make 
 those projects a reality, and to crusli the oppo- 
 sition of so-called Liberals and patriots, whose
 
 ill Scandinavia. 13 
 
 sole aim It is to be able to boast before their 
 constituents that they have succeeded in re- 
 ducing public expenditure, thus proving their 
 love of the " people," and their complete indif- 
 ference to the welfare of the country. Tout 
 comine chez vous V 
 
 Nothing; can be more affectionate than the 
 feeling of the Danish people towards the Prin- 
 cess of Wales. They seem almost to worship 
 her. The following verses, translated from the 
 Danish, will go far to prove this : — 
 
 TO THE PRINCE OF WALES. 
 ( T7-aiislated/ro7n the Danish at the Request of Royalty.) 
 
 Amidst the flowers of Denmark grew 
 
 A Rose of snowy whiteness : 
 In th' nation's heart it had taken root, 
 
 And bloomed in fairy brightness. 
 
 Its grace in Britain's isle was known, — 
 
 Fame o'er the waters bore it : — 
 ' The Rose of Denmark stands alone ! 
 
 All beauty fades before it !'
 
 14 Jl^ ay side Notes 
 
 Great Britain's Prince then sought a Bride, 
 
 To share his regal brightness : 
 So he wooed the Danish Maid, and plucked 
 
 The Rose of snowy whiteness ! 
 
 She joyous smiled when Britain vowed, 
 
 * This Rose to me is dearest !' 
 ^\^lile thousand hearts the choice approved — 
 
 He chose of all the fairest ! 
 
 Noi'ei/iber, 1S62. R. S. E. 
 
 I have just alluded to the loyalty of the Nor- 
 wegians, and I may perhaps be permitted to 
 quote a song of Denmark, showing the strong 
 attachment of the Danish people to their fine 
 old historical country. It was sung at the 
 Festival at Mocn's Klint, July 6th, 1852, in 
 memory of the battle of Frcderits, and has been 
 thus translated : — 
 
 ' Denmark, fair Mother ! 
 Ocean out-risen. 
 Loveliest flower on 
 
 Mermaiden's breast ! 
 Pleasedly, even 
 Soulh-dwellcrs must 
 Gaze on thy fertile and 
 
 Bright-smiling coast.
 
 /;/ Scandinavia. 15 
 
 Denmark, fair Mother ! 
 — Destinies friendly, 
 Sang round thy cradle 
 
 Ever thou 'lt stand ! 
 Seasons roll onward, — 
 Oceans flow onward, — 
 Flourish thou shalt, whilst 
 
 Waves wash thy strand ! 
 
 Denmark, fair Mother ! 
 
 — Aggression's hand shall 
 
 Wither, as oft as it 
 
 Touches thy shore ! 
 
 Soft through the greensward. 
 
 Forming thy throne-seat — 
 
 Firm shalt thou stand, till 
 
 Time be no more ! ' 
 
 R. S. E. 
 
 To return to personal narrative : we left Elsi- 
 nore by rail on a fine summer evening for 
 Copenhagen, a journey of about two hours. 
 The route was principally through a kind of 
 grove or avenue of trees, with an occasional 
 glimpse of a heath or common. On reaching 
 Copenhagen we repaired to the Jernbane (the 
 Terminus Hotel), pleasantly situated, having in
 
 1 6 Jf\iysidc Notes 
 
 front a spacious place paved with rough stone, 
 and full of life and bustle. Carriages and vehicles 
 of every description were constantly passing and 
 repassing. We saw multitudes of beautiful 
 horses — such horses as we never saw before. 
 Their necks are arched like those that we see 
 in Grecian sculpture, and they are usually in 
 pairs w^hich would not disgrace any English 
 nobleman's carriafre, thouirh some of them are 
 employed in drawing waggons of the roughest 
 description, shaped somewhat like flat-bottomed 
 boats with the stem and stern cut off No groups 
 of horses could surpass them. I don't know if 
 Rosa Bonheur ever saw them ; but if not, I 
 would advise her to go to Copenhagen for a 
 study. One peculiarity we specially noted, 
 namely, that the horses are accommodated with 
 a kind of rough camp-stool, whereon to rest their 
 nose -bags- -a plan which ought to be adopted 
 1)) the 'cabbies' of England. In front of our 
 sitting-room wc saw the Palace of Industry, a
 
 /;/ Scandinavia. 17 
 
 fine spacious building, on each side of which is 
 a picturesque windmill, one of them curiously 
 built on the top of a house. We remained at 
 this hotel for two days, and then removed to the 
 Hotel Royal, the principal inn in Copenhagen, 
 chiefly because it possesses an excellent table- 
 d'hote, which the Jernbane does not boast of 
 The arrangements of this establishment are of 
 the best and most comfortable kind, with reason- 
 able charo;es. 
 
 But now for Copenhagen. Well, I have seen 
 many great cities at home and abroad, but I 
 never saw one which so much impressed me as 
 did Copenhagen. Though not large, it is the 
 most interesting city I have ever seen. The 
 main streets are grand and imposing. The 
 houses are large, and have many windows, and 
 they are, every now and then, interspersed with 
 public buildings, which greatly add to the first 
 impression. Besides this, there are fine avenues 
 of trees everywhere, and summer walks beneath
 
 1 8 J Fay side Xofcs 
 
 them are truly delightful. Copenhagen may be 
 called the ' City of Islands : ' It is, indeed, an 
 island itself, and is surrounded by numerous 
 islets ; in fact, when }ou are in Scandinavia you 
 hardly know whether you are on land or at sea. 
 
 The first Sunday morning after our arrival, 
 we went to the English Church service, which 
 is held in the place of worship belonging to the 
 Moravian Brethren, Stormgade 21. We were 
 some minutes too early, and waited in a kind of 
 vestibule ; and I being weak and tired, a lady 
 kindly brought me a chair. Shortly afterwards 
 another lady entered, and inquired if I was ill. 
 I told her that I was much indisposed, and 
 she then informed us that she was wife of the 
 Chaplain to the English Legation, and that 
 she would direct the pew-opener to put us into 
 a good place. 
 
 The Chaplain, the Rev. R. 1{. Ellis, M.A. of 
 Cambridge, read the service excellently — his 
 emphasis being, I think, the best I ever heard.
 
 /;/ Scandinavia. 19 
 
 Soon after the commencement of the sermon I 
 was obliged to leave the church, my wife and 
 the pew-opener following me. Hereafter this 
 pew-opener shall be more fully described, as she 
 is a very remarkable person indeed. 
 
 As we were seated at the table-d' hote, soon 
 after three o'clock, Mrs. Ellis came in, and 
 kindly invited us to spend a day at Rungsted, 
 on the Sound, where the Chaplain has a country 
 residence during the summer months — his prin- 
 cipal abode being at Copenhagen. This we 
 accepted, and went, two days afterwards, to pass 
 what turned out to be a most pleasurable day. 
 We went up by a steamer, and the voyage was 
 of about an hour and a half's duration. The 
 banks of the Sound, with Denmark on the right 
 and Sweden on the left, are delightful ; villas 
 and villages, interspersed with rich foliage, line 
 both shores, and the water of this narrow sea is 
 as clear as crystal. Opposite our entertainers' 
 house is the insulated spot known as Tycho
 
 20 JTaysidc Xofcs 
 
 Brahe's Island, and it was there that that emi- 
 nent astronomer lived. Hveen is, I believe, the 
 right name of the island, which was presented to 
 Tycho by the King of Denmark. He built an 
 observatory upon it, and gave it the name of 
 Uraniburg. Part of the foundations of his ob- 
 servatory and his castle still remain. Some dis- 
 tance inland is Horsholm, where a magnificent 
 palace was built by King Christian vi., about a 
 century since. It was one of the finest of royal 
 abodes, and was known as ' The Versailles 
 of the North ;' but, unhappily, Frederik vi., 
 though he was born within its walls, disliked it, 
 and suffered it to go to deca)-. In 1810 it was 
 pulled down, anil no remains of it now e.xist ; 
 but its site is marked b)- a little church, witli no 
 architectural pretensions. So much for bad 
 taste ! 
 
 That siiiL;ular personage, Tycho, a mixture of 
 the soundl)' scicnlific and tlie superslilious, was 
 perhaps, upon the whole, the greatest man that
 
 i7i Scandinavia. 21 
 
 Scandinavia has produced. He was much 
 courted by royal and other personages, and 
 James vi. of Scotland (afterwards our James i.) 
 once paid a visit to his island. Tycho was a 
 good Latin poet, and a man of general informa- 
 tion, but the drawbacks of his mental character 
 were his addiction to astrology, and his observ- 
 ance of omens. He died in 1601. But this is 
 a digression, for which I crave the reader's 
 pardon. 
 
 On arriving off the Chaplain's residence we 
 were kindly met on a little jetty, of which there 
 are many in the Sound, by Mrs. Ellis, who con- 
 ducted us to her house. After a most friendly 
 greeting by the Chaplain, we had luncheon, and 
 Mrs. Ellis and a lady friend took my wife for 
 a row on the Sound, while I remained ashore 
 chatting with Miss Ellis, who gave me the latest 
 English newspapers. From them I learned that 
 my dear friend and patron. Bishop Wilberforce, 
 had sustained a fatal injury on the very day that
 
 22 JJ^aysidc Notes 
 
 we had left our home, and this caused me many 
 bitter tears. I found that Mr. Ellis was the 
 nephew of ni)- old and much esteemed friend 
 Sir Henry Ellis, of antiquarian and British 
 Museum celebrity. The Chaplain, though no 
 courtier in the vulgar sense of the word, is evi- 
 dently much esteemed at Court, and we heard 
 that on a late occasion he had the honour of 
 beinof seated at dinner between the Princess 
 Dagmar, the probable future Empress of Russia, 
 and Alexandra, now Princess of Wales, The 
 latter, on the very day of her departure for 
 England, presented him witli an elegant gold 
 watch and chain, with a souvenir inscription 
 engraved on the case. 
 
 In the evening we returned, partly by an open 
 omnibus, and partly by rail, to Copenhagen. 
 The route was lovely,' through great masses of 
 the fniest foliage, such as we had never before 
 
 * The wild flowers, in close proximity to the salt water, arc 
 remarkably beautiful.
 
 in Scandinavia. 23 
 
 beheld — Indeed, it was a kind of fairy-land. 
 The Sound was delightfully calm, and I am sure 
 we saw at least seven hundred vessels, of every 
 sort, coming down or going up that narrow 
 channel, sailing or steaming to the Baltic or 
 back. We never saw so much marine activity 
 before, and I doubt if it could be paralleled in 
 the world. 
 
 Had we been an Earl and a Countess we 
 could not have been received more courteously 
 than we were, wherever we went. The Danish 
 character is remarkable for frankness and hospi- 
 tality, and as transparent as glass. As a rule, 
 the ladies are not what we should deem beauti- 
 ful, though some of them are eminently so. 
 After an interview or two you become like old 
 friends. I had an attack of illness which con- 
 fined me to my bed for a day or two, and a lady, 
 whom we had met, came to visit us. She sat 
 by my bedside for half an hour, holding my hand 
 in hers all the time, and talking in a manner
 
 24 Wayside Notes 
 
 calculated to cheer an invalid's heart. On 
 another occasion my \vife and myself visited 
 several newly-made lady friends, and I kissed 
 six of them without a sin^rle blush amonof the 
 eight of us ! I don't believe there is a coquette 
 in all Scandinavia. 
 
 To return to our friendly pew-opener. She 
 came to the hotel a day or two after our inter- 
 view, to inquire after my health, and invited us 
 to give her a call, which, of course, we did. She 
 keeps a very pretty shop for the sale of what the 
 Danes call tobakkcr. Passing through this 
 apartment, we were ushered up-stairs into hand- 
 somely furnished rooms, and there found, inter 
 alia, a piano, a harmonium, and an organ. She 
 told us that she was of Eno-Hsh birth, but had left 
 this country with her parents at the tender age 
 of six weeks. On arriving/ at woman's estate 
 she married a Dane, antl had b)- him ten chil- 
 dren, all of whom, except her youngest daughter, 
 have grown uj) and left her. She receives for
 
 in Scandinavia. 25 
 
 her pew-opening duties fifty rix-dollars a year,^ 
 which, with much more, as we had reason to 
 beheve, she conscientiously devotes to the poor 
 sick EngHsh sailor-boys who arrive in the port 
 of Copenhagen. She told us, with much emo- 
 tion, that it was her habit to go and pray with 
 the poor lads, and that she had closed the eyes 
 of many of them. She is a most intelligent 
 woman, of unaffected manners, and is well edu- 
 cated ; and besides translating the Scandi- 
 navian languages into English, writes elegant 
 verses. Her name is Blichfeldt — and God 
 bless her for her benevolent exertions ! 
 
 Social status is much less attended to in 
 Scandinavia than in England, and as there are 
 few distinctions of creed — nearly the entire 
 population being Lutherans^ — a more friendly 
 feeling seems to exist than in many other parts 
 of Europe. 
 
 ^ A rix-dollar is 2S. 3d. of our money.
 
 26 Wayside Notes 
 
 The shops in the principal streets are excel- 
 lent, and many of them offer an assortment of 
 elegant merchandise. In some parts of Copen- 
 hagen, however, the shops are underground, and 
 }0u have to go down steps as to cellars, to make 
 a purchase. Every third or fourth tradesman 
 has a Jiandcl to his name, or rather trade. Thus 
 a bookseller is a bog-handel ; a merchant, a 
 handelsmand ; a tea-dealer, a thee-handel ; a 
 cheesemonger, an ostehandel, or ostehandler. 
 etc. etc. — the word signifying trade, commerce, 
 or a dealer. 
 
 Most of the better class of tradesmen speak 
 English, as also do the waiters at the principal 
 hotels. Mr. Macgregor, of ' Rob Roy' cele- 
 l)rity, informed me that the English language 
 would answer our purpose well, without resort- 
 ing either to French, or to \.?i\!\\\ p7'0}iou7icediii 
 the co)ili)icnlal Diode — an expedient to which I 
 • have had occasion to resort before now. Mr. 
 Macgregor especially remarked that the Swedes
 
 in Scandinavia. 27 
 
 were most desirous of acquiring some English, 
 and that even children would get behind 
 one's chair for the purpose of picking up our 
 conversational phrases. I can truly say that 
 several educated Norwegian ladies whom we 
 met spoke our language with the greatest purity 
 and the best accent, though some of them had 
 never been in Encrland. 
 
 With respect to the furnishing of the houses 
 (I speak principally of Denmark), there is much 
 ideal comfort. The absence of carpets in 
 summer, and the great want of open fireplaces 
 or hearths, make us feel that we are not at 
 home, and that at least some English comforts 
 are wanting. The rooms are mostly heated by 
 upright cylindrical iron stoves, surmounted with 
 imitation bronze statues ; and at night, man and 
 wife are divorced into two little beds, like those 
 used by the pupils in boarding schools. Every- 
 thing reminds one of the French style in 
 furnishino^.
 
 28 Jf'^aysidc Ahitcs 
 
 A table-d'hote is a famous institution, and I 
 wish it could be fairly said that we possessed it 
 in England ; but we insular folks arc so select 
 and exclusive that most people prefer dining in 
 private rooms, thereby losing a great deal of 
 social enjoyment. At the table-d'hote, at 
 the Copenhagen Hotel- Royal, where nearly a 
 hundred guests of many nations sat down daily, 
 we met with some very interesting people. 
 Close to me on several occasions sat the well- 
 known Rev. Dr. Aitken of Edinburgh (D.D.), 
 now seventy-five years of age, who, in his 
 younger days, had been well acquainted with 
 Sir Walter Scott, and in later times with the 
 celebrated Danish sculptor Thorvaldsen, during 
 the period when he was pursuing his studies at 
 Rome. Of Thorvaldsen more hereafter. My 
 z'is'd-zns was a well-known English county 
 member ; antl then^ wen; many other persons 
 of distinction (some Americans), whose names 
 I omitted to note: down ; l)ut all were polite and
 
 /// Scandinavia. 29 
 
 friendly, and die dinners passed off with much 
 hilarity and good-will. A table-d'hote is pretty 
 much the same everywhere, but we noticed one 
 peculiarity here, namely, that mutton and beef 
 succeeded the soup, and preceded the fish. 
 The dessert was very good, and so were the 
 ales and wines. As a rule the northern mutton 
 is not to be compared with that of our famed 
 South Downs or Leicesters. The sheep are 
 small, and wear the long tails which were born 
 with them. They are curiously marked on their 
 backs with red and crimson ochre. The beef 
 is better, and great numbers of cattle are 
 exported to England. Agriculture and cattle- 
 breeding receive much attention in Denmark, 
 and there is scarcely a rood of ground that is 
 not in some way utilized where such a thing 
 is practicable. The farms are small, and are 
 often cultivated by their ( wn proprietors. 
 Such persons as we call 'gentlemen farmers' 
 are scarcely known.
 
 30 J V ay side Notes 
 
 A word on the peasantry and the other work- 
 ing classes. They are mostly clean and decently 
 habited. When they meet a superior they salute 
 him by raising their caps, and they do the 
 same to persons of their own position, If known 
 to them. The little peasant boys have their 
 light hair cropped close to their heads, and 
 look like small convicts lately come out of 
 prison. 
 
 Now for a few words on the history of the 
 three countries, taking each separately ; and 
 first of Denmark, 
 
 Denmark, as Sir John Lubbock well observes, 
 in his Prehistoric Times, occupies a larger space 
 in history than It docs on the map of Europe. 
 Not only, as lie truly remarks, that many a ijiore 
 important nation may well envy the Danes the 
 position they hold in science wwA art, but it Is 
 besides undoubtedly true tliat the antiquity of 
 Denmark, as of Scandinavia generally, was its
 
 /;/ Scandinavia. 31 
 
 most splendid period, and that to which even 
 now the greatest interest attaches. Certainly 
 the memorials of prehistoric Scandinavia are 
 among the most curious in Europe ; and happily 
 there have arisen in our later days men of 
 diligent research and great learning, who have, 
 so to speak, edited the historical relics of un- 
 known ages. The earliest ascertained historical 
 fact in the history of Denmark, to which a 
 considerable portion of Jutland and South 
 Schleswig then belonged, is a war with 
 Germany in the days of Charlemagne. A 
 treaty concluded in 810 made the river Eyder 
 the boundary between the two contending 
 powers, and so continued till 1864. In the 
 days of Charlemagne, the Danes, Norwegians, 
 and Swedes remained in pagandom, but shortly 
 afterwards, in 827, the gospel was introduced 
 into Denmark by Ansgarius, a monk from 
 Westphalia. It took no deep root till after the 
 conquest of England by Sweyn and Cnut. At
 
 32 J Fay side A^ofcs 
 
 the death of Cnut, his large territory, comprising 
 Denmark, Norway, England, the south of Scot- 
 land, and large tracts on the Baltic coast, was 
 broken up, and Denmark was long divided by 
 internal feuds. 
 
 Then comes what is called the Valdemarian 
 period, during which kings Valdemar i., 
 Cnut VI., and Valdemar ii. bore successful 
 rule. The Danes now turned propagandists of 
 Christianity, and waged war against the pagan 
 countries on the south and east of the Baltic. 
 Durinor a battle fouMit near Revel in Russia, in 
 1 2 19, a great miracle occurred. The Danes 
 having discarded the old pagan Hag of the 
 Raven, a new one was vouchsafed them li)- 
 Heaven, and sent down to them. Under this 
 new banner the)' became victorious. It was a 
 red flair with a white cross, still the national 
 ensign b)' sea and land, and is called the 
 Danncbrog. • 
 
 In the Da>ti>/i Ditties (tour into F.nglisli,
 
 in Scandinavia. 33 
 
 by the Rev. R. S. E., there is a national war- 
 song, which includes the following stanza : — 
 
 ' The Danndbrog 'tis known, 
 The Dann^rog 'tis known, 
 It fell from heaven down, 
 Yes, it fell from heaven down ; 
 It floats upon the mast, 
 The soldier grasps it fast, 
 And no Flag in the world besides like ours from Heaven 
 was ever cast.' 
 
 Truly there is no nation under the sun that 
 is prouder of its national ensign than is Den- 
 mark — not even England of its union-jack. 
 Some sceptics of late times have been profane 
 enough to say that the Dannebrog was sent to 
 the Danish monarch by the Pope ; but I vastly 
 prefer the legend ! 
 
 Valdemar 11, holds a position in the annals of 
 Denmark similar to that assio^ned to our own 
 Alfred. He was an eminent law-giver, and the 
 oldest statute laws of the realm, both civil and 
 ecclesiastical, date from his reign. * He also
 
 34 Wayside Notes 
 
 caused the compilation of a most interesting 
 account of the royal revenue derived from 
 property in the whole of the kingdom — a kind 
 of Domesday Book.'^ His death in 1241 was 
 followed by political discord from within and 
 oppression from without. A man, noble by 
 birth and noble by disposition, came to the 
 rescue. This was Niels Ebbesen, a native of 
 Jutland, who by his wisdom and daring courage 
 put things once more into order. The Danes, 
 now thoroughly aroused, were led by a new 
 sovereign, Valdemar iii., and the integrity and 
 independence of the kingdom were thoroughly 
 restored. That monarch's daughter, Queen 
 Margaret, succeeded in securing the rotundity 
 of Scandinavia, by adding to Denmark proper 
 the realms of Norway and Sweden. She was 
 an able ruler, but unhappily, after her death, 
 the united Scandinavian kingdoms passed to 
 
 ' Murray, p. 1 1.
 
 /// Scandinavia. 35 
 
 German magnates distantly related to the 
 ancient royal family of Denmark. They lacked 
 energy and ability, and after the lapse of 
 upwards of a century, marked by many troubles, 
 Sweden seceded from the union. Maro-aret's 
 successor was Eric of Pomerania, who married 
 Philippa, daughter of our Henry iv., whose 
 gallant defence of Copenhagen (in the absence 
 of her husband) against the fleets of the 
 Hanseatic League, give her a great name in 
 northern history. 
 
 The first of the Oldenburg dynasty, which 
 still reigns in Denmark, was Christian i., and a 
 younger branch of his family occupies the throne 
 of Russia. King Christian acquired the duchy 
 of Holstein. In the reign of Christian iii. the 
 Reformation took place, almost by common 
 consent. Christian iv. (1588- 1648) was a 
 gallant soldier, a good political economist, and 
 a man of exquisite taste — three qualities rarely 
 combined in one sovereign. He erected
 
 36 Way side Notes 
 
 numerous buildings, similar in style to what we 
 call Elizabethan, and which is called in Denmark 
 the Christlan-the-Fourth style. Good specimens 
 of his architectural taste are the Copenhagen 
 Exchanire, and the castles of Rosenborof and 
 Fredriksborg. His son, Frederik in., was 
 less successful, and Charles x. of Sweden 
 deprived Denmark of the provinces east of the 
 Sound, which have ever since formed part of 
 the Swedish dominions. For a long period the 
 crown of Denmark had been elective, but after 
 a time it became an absolute hereditary 
 monarchy. 1^ ew of the kings of the Oldenburg 
 dynasty cared much for the Danish nationality 
 and language, their (juecns and ministers being 
 chiefly Germans, and the natives of Denmark 
 were possessed of very little influence. 
 
 Here I may remark that the names of 
 Christian and l"'redcrik have long been popular 
 in Scandinavia, and numerous towns and minor 
 places have these; names as prefixes ; thus we
 
 in Scaitdmavia. 37 
 
 have, in Denmark, Christlansborg, Christians- 
 havn, Christianso, Christiansssede ; in Norway, 
 Christiania, Christiansand, Christiansund ; and 
 in Sweden, Christenhamn and Christenstad. 
 Likewise with Frederic, we have in the three 
 nations Frederikborg, Fredericksal, Frederiks- 
 havn, Frederiksvserk, Frederikstadt, Fre- 
 derickischort, Frediksgard, Frederikstad, and 
 numerous other minor places. It was the same 
 custom with our Anglo-Saxon ancestors, who 
 usually prefixed their own names or titles to 
 those of their estates. Hence we have, besides 
 Kingston and Queensborough, Milton, Arling- 
 ton, Michelham, Claverham, Peterborough, and 
 a thousand others. 
 
 Frederic v., who reigned from 1746 to 
 1 766, married Louisa, a daughter of our George 
 II., who was greatly beloved by the Danish 
 people. Their son, Christian vii., married 
 Caroline- Mathilde, daughter of our George iii. 
 The history of this queen of Denmark is very
 
 38 Way side Notes 
 
 painful. She was from an early age of a very 
 sickly constitution, and her husband unfortu- 
 nately gave himself up to a reckless life, which 
 produced mental disease. Then Struensee, a 
 famous German physician, an atheist and an 
 admirer of Voltaire, became the virtual king of 
 Denmark, and governed it for some time, no 
 doubt with good intentions, but with very ill 
 success, for by a court conspiracy his career 
 was brought to a speedy conclusion, and he was 
 beheaded in 1772. The Queen was suspected 
 of an illicit liaison with Struensee, and was 
 divorced from her husband and banished. She 
 retired to Celle in Hanover, and died not long 
 afterwards. 
 
 From the time of Struensee's fall, it has been 
 observed, 'dates a strong and ever-increasing 
 revival of Danish national feelinsj, of Danish 
 literature, art, and science.' About the end of 
 the eighteenth century the Danish commerce 
 antl its ncccssai')- ship[)ing became very flourish-
 
 in Scandinavia. 39 
 
 ing, and, as the Danes observed the ' strictest 
 neutrahty during that sanguinary period, they 
 were comparatively safe. But unhappily in 
 1802 the English Government commenced hos- 
 tilities, with a view to compelling Denmark to 
 secede from the league formed by the neutral 
 states for the protection of their commerce — 
 one of the vilest acts ever perpetrated by an 
 English ministry. On the 2d of April 1802 
 a great sea-fight took place off Copenhagen 
 between Lord Nelson and the Danish * Line of 
 Defence.' Nielsen is a common name in Den- 
 mark, and the Nielsens (etymologically the same 
 as Nelson) declare that our great naval hero 
 never conquered them, but that it was a ' drawn 
 battle,' which I partly believe. 
 
 Five years afterwards (1807) began a second 
 war with England. A fleet with twenty thousand 
 men left our shores, with a demand for the un- 
 conditional surrender of the Danish fleet. The 
 poor Danes expected no hostilities. Copenhagen
 
 40 IVayside Notes 
 
 was unprepared for a naval attack, was with- 
 out a garrison, and almost utterly defence- 
 less. A three days' bombardment destroyed a 
 considerable part of the city, and the Danish 
 tleet was equipped and carried away by the 
 Encrlish. I am almost ashamed to chronicle 
 these things against my countrymen, but I can 
 truly say that in our fathers' dealings with 
 Denmark they behaved most dishonourably. 
 
 In 1 8 14 Denmark was compelled to cede 
 Norway to Sweden, but why I could never un- 
 derstand. I sometimes think that these dimi- 
 nutions of Danish power and authority may 
 be regarded as a kind of retributive justice. 
 The Danes of olden times were invaders and 
 pirates, and they and their near neighbours 
 conquered England, part of Scotland, Nor- 
 mandy, and other parts of luiropc ; but let 
 that pass. 
 
 The Danish shipping and commerce were 
 ruined, and the state was all but bankrupt ; but
 
 in Scandinavia. 41 
 
 by economical government, by the national 
 resources of the country, and by circumstances 
 of a fortunate character, Denmark held her own, 
 and Frederik vi. was in a measure the happy 
 instrument of saving his country from destruc- 
 tion : he died in 1839. In the meantime the 
 so-called Schleswig-Holstein movement began 
 to develop itself. ' It was an offshoot of the 
 unity movement in Germany [Prussia], and had 
 for its object to separate from Denmark and 
 unite with Germany, not only the originally 
 German duchy of Holstein, which had been 
 acquired by Christian i. in 1460, but also the 
 originally Danish duchy of Schleswig, which 
 had never in any way been connected with 
 Germany, but of which the southern part, by 
 constant immigration, had become German- 
 ized.'^ The subsequent and recent history of 
 Denmark will be in the recollection of most 
 readers. 
 
 ^ Murray, p. 14,
 
 42 J Fay side Azotes 
 
 With the exception of Switzerland, there is 
 perhaps a no more picturesque country in the 
 world than Norway, with its long range of 
 mountains, the Dovrefjelds, its numerous yf^n/j" 
 or arms of the sea, and its wonderfully beautiful 
 waterfalls. There is so rugged a coast as can- 
 not be found anywhere else, and the islands and 
 islets are innumerable. Norway is about i lOO 
 English miles in length, that is, half as long 
 again as Great Britain, but in some places very 
 narrow. The mountains at various points reach 
 the vast elevation of 8000 feet. 
 
 Sportsmen, whether hunters or fishers, find 
 such a fund of amusement as they could not 
 enjoy in any other country. Draughtsmen in 
 Norway most delight in the picturesque scenery 
 of the land, and its wonderful clotidage. Alto- 
 gether, there is nowhere so good a study for the 
 geologist and the meteorologist as in the land of 
 the Norsemen. The towns and houses are not 
 very attractive, and the tourist should look out
 
 in Scandinavia. 43 
 
 for the beauties of nature rather than for those 
 of art. There are, however, some beautiful 
 churches of early date. The costume of the Nor- 
 wegians is very picturesque, especially that of 
 the women. The old men cultivate long white 
 hair, which flows down on each side of the face 
 in truly patriarchal fashion. They wear red 
 worsted caps, open shirt-collars, and jackets and 
 waistcoats decked with silver buttons, as our 
 English ancestors did three generations ago, 
 when old men used to wear crown pieces on 
 their coats, and shillings on their waistcoats, — 
 an inoffensive mode of showing that they were 
 not * hard up ' for money. As to the interiors 
 of houses, it has been remarked that they are far 
 more picturesque than cleanly, especially in the 
 districts of Bergen and Tellemarken. In many 
 cases the reception-room or Statssue is of a rich 
 dark brown tint, caused by wood smoke ; and 
 this apartment generally contains all the family, 
 and most of the family goods and family gods.
 
 44 IVayside Notes 
 
 Norway is a truly sporting country, but as 
 I can neither shoot nor fish, I cannot say much 
 on that subject. Murray will tell you all about 
 it. Game of all kinds is abundant, except par- 
 tridges and pheasants. The capercailzie, the 
 blackcock, and the ptarmigan may be found in 
 their habitats to the sportsman's heart's content. 
 Before I left Enorland a friend told me that if I 
 could pick up a pair of capercailzie and bring 
 them to England alive, they would fetch ten 
 pounds ; but I was not fortunate enough to make 
 the purchase. 
 
 The Danes call their great national meetings 
 ' things' and so I think they are. The Danish 
 parliament (called the Rigsdag) consists of all 
 sorts and conditions of men. It opens on the 
 first Monday in October. A preliminary sermon 
 is preached in the church adjoining the Castle 
 of Christiansborg, and then the ministers of the 
 Crown are present; cheers are given for the King 
 whether he appears in proprid persona or not.
 
 in Scandinavia. 45 
 
 The next thing that the ' tiling^ does is to elect 
 a speaker, a deputy speaker, and other officers. 
 
 .The Danish House of Commons is a motley 
 crowd ; and now it has as members, peasants, 
 mechanics, little landed proprietors, clergymen, 
 scholars, and in fact persons representing every 
 grade of society. At this moment there are 
 among what we call M.P.'s a shoemaker, a 
 country schoolmaster, some retired butchers, and 
 the like. This may suit Messrs. Odger, Brad- 
 laugh, and Sir Charles Dilke, but it does not suit 
 my ideas of a Parliament, which should be com- 
 posed of men of high culture and refinement. 
 
 Since the foregoing was written, the follow- 
 ing information has reached us. On the 19th 
 of October 1873, the Danish House of Commons 
 was dissolved by Royal direction, after only 
 twelve days' existence. This Folkething con- 
 sisted of 10 1 members, of whom 6 were cot- 
 tagers or day-labourers, who receive 7s. 6d, a 
 day for their services ; 49 peasants and small
 
 46 Wayside Notes 
 
 farmers of from 20 to 60 acres ; 19 miscellaneous, 
 consisting of country schoolmasters, editors of 
 small provincial newspapers, and tradesmen ; 
 and finally of 2 7 members of high social position, 
 independent means, and good education. One of 
 the first class of M. P.'s is said to have filled up the 
 hours he could spare from the tiling in chopping 
 up wood in the streets, his usual occupation ! 
 
 Norway abounds in wild beasts and birds. In 
 1855 ^^ bears killed amounted to 212, the 
 wolves to 235, the lynxes to 125, the gluttons 
 to 72, and the eagles to 2559! Between 700 
 and 800 mountain owls, and about the same 
 number of hawks, are slain every year. Stags, 
 elks, and reindeer are common, but beavers 
 are almost extinct. The game-laws of Norway 
 arc extremely strict and severe. 
 
 One of the greatest natural curiosities in 
 Norway is the mischievous leming, an animal of 
 a brownish colour, about the size of our water- rat. 
 These creatures do not appear year by year.
 
 in Scandinavia. 47 
 
 but at intervals of three or four years. Their 
 natural habitat is the mountains, from which 
 they migrate when their numbers become too 
 large for home-subsistence. Theirwater- passage 
 is from east to west in a direct line, and they 
 take boldly to broad rivers and large fiords till 
 they arrive on the shores of the Atlantic. 
 Should they encounter a heavy storm they are 
 drowned in myriads, and float on the surface of 
 the water. Many of them are supposed during 
 their passage to be devoured by birds of prey. 
 Their march is chiefly nocturnal, and they devour 
 most of the corn or herbage in their route. 
 ' Formerly the Norwegians believed them to 
 have fallen from the clouds, and so great was 
 the mischief caused by them, that they were 
 solemnly exorcised by the priests, and a Leming 
 Litany was appointed to be said with this 
 object,' ^ — another instance of ancient Norse 
 superstition. 
 
 ^ Murray.
 
 48 IVaysidc Notes 
 
 Very little has been ascertained of the early 
 histor)^ of Norway, and in this respect it resem- 
 bles most of the countries of the west of Europe. 
 The Sagas, as the most ancient compositions 
 comprising the mythology and history of the 
 northern races are called, can no more be relied 
 on than the semi-fabulous history of Romulus 
 and Remus and the subsequent kings of Rome, 
 or even than the wild chronicles of the Chinese. 
 Our best ethnographers, however, consider the 
 aborigines to have been Lapps ; but there is 
 little doubt that the southern population of 
 Scandinavia, comprising Denmark, most of 
 Sweden, and all tlic south of Norway are of 
 the Teutonic, German, or Gothic race, and in 
 all probability came from Asia, in a nomadic 
 manner, through the east and midland parts of 
 Europe; but why, coming as they did from a 
 warm climate, they should have settled in so 
 bleak a district as Scandinavia is a puzzle not 
 easily understood. Snnrro Sturleson's celebrated
 
 /// Scandinavia. 49 
 
 chronicle, written in the twelfth and thirteenth 
 centuries, is more trustworthy than the Sagas; 
 but it is somewhat like the writings of our Geof- 
 fry of Monmouth, and must not be * swallowed 
 whole.' However, it is pretty certain that the 
 settlement of these orientals was in petty com- 
 munities, who continually waged war with each 
 other. But at length there arose a leading spirit 
 in the person of 'the fair-haired Harald' (Haar- 
 fager) who, in the latter part of the ninth century, 
 made himself master of the whole country. 
 
 At the commencement of his career he was 
 informed of the charms of one Gyda, daughter 
 of the king of Hordaland, and he sent some of 
 his retainers to offer her his heart, though he 
 said nothing about his hand. She was proud 
 and indignant, and would not submit to become 
 his mistress, but said that on his becoming 
 master of the whole country she would marry 
 him. He admired her ambition, and vowed to 
 all the Teutonic gods that he would neither cut 
 
 D
 
 50 J Fay side Azotes 
 
 nor even comb his hair until he had subdued all 
 Norway ; which, as I have said, he eventually 
 did, and then the fair Gyda consented to accept 
 him, although he was already possessed of eight 
 wives. This I think goes far to prove his East- 
 ern extraction. From the time when Harald 
 began to comb his fair hair again, about a.d. 885, 
 down to about 1250, the history of Norway is 
 full of stories of heroic warlike exploits. 
 
 The Vikings were in their glory, and probabl}' 
 brought home large spoils from their unfortu- 
 nate neighbours, but there was not much peace 
 in the country; for internal feuds and constant 
 emigrations to other shores always prevailed. 
 The Vikings, discontented with absolute rule, 
 attempted settlements in other countries. As 
 in Norway, so in Sweden and Denmark, the 
 desire of a settlement in distant and more 
 favoured climes became the ambition of the 
 Scandinavian peoples. Thus the Norwegians 
 obtained a fouling in Scotland and Ireland, and
 
 /;/ Scandinavia. 51 
 
 the Danes in England and Normandy. Rollo, 
 the first duke of Normandy, is said to have 
 come to the south from Aalesund in Norway, 
 and to have been called * Hrolf Gangr ' or Rollo 
 the Walker, because he was so big and tall that 
 no Norwegian horse could carry him ! But 
 contemporary chroniclers assert that he and 
 his followers were Danes, and many of their 
 descendants there still bear the name of le 
 Danois. It must be remembered that Nor- 
 wegians and Danes were indiscriminately called 
 Northmen. The Vikings, with a spirit un- 
 equalled in those early times, made voyages to 
 the shores of every country in Europe, even as 
 far as Constantinople. In the tenth century they 
 made mainprise of Iceland, and from thence 
 some hardy adventurers made excursions across 
 the Atlantic, and discovered North America 
 some centuries before Christopher Columbus 
 was thought of. 
 
 Haeen surnamed 'the Good' succeeded Haar-
 
 52 JFayside Notes 
 
 fager in 933, and there is 3.sa^a concerning him. 
 lie was brought up in England under Athelstan. 
 He tried to introduce Christianity into Norway, 
 but it took no deep root until the twelfth century. 
 
 In 1016, Olaf II. became king of Norway, and 
 he is known to later ages as Saint Olaf. His 
 sanctity, however, may well be doubted, as he 
 tried to enforce Christianity upon his subjects 
 by fire and sword ; and besides destroying the 
 pagan temples, committed the most atrocious 
 acts of bloodshed and robbery in the name of 
 Christ ! The people rose cu masse against hini, 
 and he was obliged to seek refuge in Sweden. 
 
 He was succeeded in the government of Nor- 
 way in 102S by Cnut the Great, who was unani- 
 mously elected king. Olaf however tried to 
 regain the monarchy and invaded the country. 
 A tremendous battle was fought near Trond- 
 heim, in which he and most of his army were 
 slain. This was in 1030. A few years later his 
 body was found incorrupt ; a belief in his sanctity
 
 in Scandinavia. 53 
 
 was restored ; his remains were conveyed to 
 Trondhelm for reinterment ; and a chapel, built 
 over them, at length reached the proportions of 
 a Cathedral. Down to the Reformation, pil- 
 grimages were made to his shrine. Churches 
 were built in his honour in various parts of 
 Scandinavia, and other countries, and even in 
 London we have several churches dedicated to 
 this sham saint. 
 
 Sweyn, the son of Cnut, was deputed by him 
 to the government of Norway, with the title of 
 king, but on the death of Cnut, a.d. 1035, he 
 was dethroned by Magnus i,, the illegitimate 
 son of St. Olaf He died in 1047, when his 
 uncle Harald iii., a mighty soldier who founded 
 Osloe, now the city of Christiania, succeeded. 
 
 At the instigation of Tostig, brother of 
 Harold 11. of England, he made a raid upon 
 our countr}'. A great battle was fought at 
 Stamford, in Lincolnshire, in 1066, and both 
 Harald and Tostig were killed. The son of
 
 54 Wayside Notes 
 
 Harald, called Olaf iii., with the whole of the 
 Norwegian fleet, fell into the hands of our 
 Harold, who generously permitted Olaf to sail 
 for the fatherland, with twenty ships. Poor 
 Harold, the son of Earl Godwin, only three 
 weeks later, was slain at the battle of Hastings 
 by the followers of William the Conqueror. It 
 is curious to note these feuds and tragedies 
 among men of the same nationality and descent, 
 for Harald of Norway, Harold of England, and 
 William of Normandy were, as I have said, all 
 of common origin. 
 
 Olaf III. was succeeded by his son Magnus iii., 
 surnamed ' Bare-foot,'^ who became great in the 
 roll of heroes and warriors of Norway. In 
 109S, provided with a strong fleet, he con- 
 quered the Isle of Man, the Shetlands, Orkneys, 
 and the Western Isles of Scotland. He next 
 tried his hand upon Ireland, where he was slain 
 in 1098. 
 
 ' Probably because he had gone on some pilgrimage without 
 shoes.
 
 in Scandinavia. ' 55 
 
 Sigurd I., his son and successor, bore a sur- 
 name, as most of the old Scandinavian monarchs 
 did, and his was J orsalalare, which means a 
 'Traveller to Jerusalem.' He went thither 
 with an object partly religious and partly 
 warlike. He sailed in 1107 with a fleet of 
 sixty vessels, and was absent four years. He 
 passed the first winter in England, and received 
 the hospitality of Henry i. Passing on, he 
 engaged in divers battles with the Moors, both 
 in Portugal and at sea. When he landed in 
 Sicily, Roger, the Norman king of the island, 
 entertained him with great pomp and hospi- 
 tality. On reaching Jerusalem, he offered his 
 military services to Baldwin, which the latter 
 gladly accepted. His last exploit in Pales- 
 tine was that of joining in the siege of Sidon, 
 and he received half the spoils. He returned 
 over land from Constantinople through central 
 Europe. ' The fame of this expedition still 
 lives in the memory of the peasants of the
 
 56 Wayside Notes 
 
 Sogne Fiord, many of whose ancestors took 
 part in it. Before leaving Constantinople, 
 Sigurd placed the figure-head of his own ship 
 — a dra!:^on twelve feet longr — on the Church of 
 St. Sophia; but in 1204, after the capture of 
 the city by the Crusaders, the new Emperor, 
 Baldwin of Flanders, sent it as a present to the 
 city of Bruges, from whence it was carried away 
 in 13S2 to Ghent; and there it still remains, 
 on the great belfry, the pride of the citizens, 
 and long a puzzle to antiquaries.' So states 
 IMurray's Handbook; but I cannot ascertain 
 the source of the information, though it is pro- 
 bably correct 
 
 After the death of Sigurd internal feuds and 
 civil wars arose in Norwa)'. l)uL they were abated 
 in I 152 1)}' the kindly interference of the Pope's 
 legate, Nicholas Breakspeare, an Englishman, 
 afterwards Pope Adrian iv. This eminent man 
 rectified tlie ecclesiastical condition of the 
 country by obtaining for Trondheim a metro-
 
 /;/ Scandmavia. 57 
 
 politan see. The new archbishop's authority 
 extended over all Norway, Iceland, Greenland, 
 the Faroe Islands, the Shetlands, the Orkneys, 
 the Hebrides, and the Isle of Man. The 
 Norweg-ians distincruished the Hebrides as 
 ' Sydcrik}'' (the southern islands), and hence 
 the title of one of our bishops, ' Sodoi^ and 
 Man.' 
 
 The Scots considering the Hebrides as part 
 and parcel of their dominions sought to reannex 
 them. Upon this Hagen iv. made war upon 
 them, but died during the expedition, a.d. 1263. 
 Norway now began again to decline by reason 
 of intestine commotions, foreign wars, and loss 
 of commerce, as also by a visitation of the * Black 
 Death,' which destroyed nearly half the popu- 
 lation of England under Edward iii., and is said 
 to have been imported into Bergen by an empty 
 English ship, whose crew had died on the 
 passage. The archbishop of Trondheim and 
 nearly all the cathedral authorities were stricken
 
 58 Wayside Notes 
 
 down, and the only bishop in the whole country 
 who escaped was Solomon, bishop of Christiania. 
 Thousands of the peasants fell victims, as also 
 did the cattle and other domestic animals. Then 
 followed a great famine ; navigation and com- 
 merce were almost destroyed, and for many 
 generations Norway remained in a most abject 
 condition. 
 
 Hagen vi. of Norway married the daughter 
 of Valdemar iv, of Denmark, and died in 1380, 
 and then his infant son Olaf in. became king of 
 the two nations, which remained united until the 
 beginning of the present century. This monarch 
 died at an early age, and then his mother, 
 Margaret, called the ' Northern Semiramis,' 
 overcoming the king of Sweden, united the 
 three Scandinavian nations under one crown. 
 
 Christian i. married a daughter of James in. 
 of Scotland, and, in aid of her dowry, mort- 
 gaged the Orkney antl Shetland islands ; but, 
 not being able to raise money for their redemp-
 
 /// Scandinavia. 59 
 
 tion, they fell back again to their proper owners, 
 the Scots. 
 
 The next event of importance was the Re- 
 formation, which commenced in 1536, under 
 Christian iii., and was gradually carried on to 
 a peaceful issue. In the reign of Christian iv. 
 rich silver mines were discovered at Kongsberg, 
 and copper mines at Roras. This distinguished 
 monarch built Christiania on the site of the 
 ancient Osloe, and founded the town of Chris- 
 tiansand. Long previously to this, Sweden 
 had seceded from the Danish rule, though 
 Norway still continued loyal. But it is not 
 necessary here to give even an outline of the 
 more recent historical events of this interesting 
 country. 
 
 Geographically, Sweden is almost as flat as 
 Norway is mountainous, though mountains of 
 considerable height are scattered along its 
 north-western border at the points most adja-
 
 6o JVaysidc Notes 
 
 cent to Norwa)'. At the upper part of the Gulf 
 of Bothnia, the sea has long been receding. 
 Sweden abounds in lakes, great or small, the 
 principal being lakes Wener and Wetter, 
 sometimes called Wenern and Wettern. The 
 former is the larger, being upwards of 92 miles 
 lonfT- The forests are numerous and lar^re, 
 covering more than half the surface of the 
 country. Pine and fir are the prevalent trees 
 in the central district ; the north abounds with 
 birch, and the south with oak and beech ; 
 maple, lime, willow, ash, etc., arc found in 
 various districts. The mineral productions of 
 Sweden are rich and varied, including copper, 
 iron, gold (in small quantities), silver, zinc, lead, 
 marble, and coal. The iron is the best in the 
 world, and excels iii the quality of toughness, 
 as I have heard English blacksmiths say. 
 
 Like the other two Scandinavian countries, 
 Sweden has little trustworthy early hi.story — not 
 even so much as the others. .Snorro Sturleson,
 
 ill Scandinavia. 6i 
 
 and Saxo Grammaticus, who flourished in the 
 twelfth century, are its only trustworthy (?) 
 historians. Scandinavia is spoken of in general 
 terms by classical writers, such as Pliny and 
 Tacitus, but there is no specific notice of Sweden. 
 
 The principal event mentioned by Snorro 
 and Saxo in connexion with Sweden is the 
 emigration northward of the Gothic tribes known 
 as the Sviar under Odin ; they were afterwards 
 designated Swedes. This event is thought to 
 have taken place previously to the invasion 
 of England by the Anglo-Saxons. Odin, so 
 named after the great Scandinavian god, was 
 an able man, and combined the characteristics 
 of conqueror, king, and legislator : in his priestly 
 capacity he was profound in the superstitious 
 practices of the times. At length he himself 
 was invested with the honours of a deity, and 
 his ciiltus was widely spread throughout the 
 north. 
 
 Freyer, the third in succession, made Upsala
 
 62 IVayside Notes 
 
 his metropolis, and the temple which he built 
 there became the most celebrated centre of 
 pagan worship in Scandinavia. A succession 
 of the subsequent kings were truly unfortunate : 
 some fell in battle ; others committed suicide ; 
 some were slain by their own people ; and, 
 notably, one of them, called Domald, was sacri- 
 ficed by his loyal subjects to appease the gods 
 during a great famine, on the altar of Odin. 
 A more unhappy dynasty was never known in 
 the world, and it may well be said of it — 
 'Uneasy lies the head that wears a crown!' 
 Foreign wars, internal revolutions, and piracy 
 mark the traditions of that long and dismal 
 period of northern history. 
 
 At length St. Ansgar laboured to establish 
 Christianity during the reign of Bjorn in the 
 ninth century, but without much success at first. 
 At length Olaf, surnamcd the ' Lap-king,' be- 
 cause he was baptized in infancy in his mother's 
 lap. somewhat before the year looo, succeeded.
 
 ill Scandinavia. 63 
 
 During his reign three bishoprics were estab- 
 lished and many churches were built. From 
 his time Sweden was a nominally Christian 
 state, but it was long after this that paganism 
 really died out. 
 
 For three centuries after the introduction of 
 the gospel into the country, continual wars were 
 waged between the Goths and Swedes, each 
 claiming the supreme authority. Sweden 
 proved victorious, and to this day the title of 
 her monarch is — ' King of the Swedes and 
 Goths,' just as in our own country down to the 
 time of George in., the Sovereign was styled 
 ' King of Great Britain, France, and Ireland.' 
 In 1250 Stockholm was built and strongly 
 fortified, the leges scriptce were revised, and 
 the internal administration underwent great 
 improvement. The greatest monarch that 
 Sweden had in mediaeval times was Maenus i.. 
 whose reign commenced in 1275, and whose 
 able administration reinstated order and tran-
 
 64 IVayside Notes 
 
 quillity instead of the bloody career of ante- 
 cedent sovereigns. 
 
 I may here remark that Magmis was a very 
 common name for sovereiijns in the Scandinavian 
 countries; and I may mention that, in 1S39, I 
 had the pleasure of rescuing from destruction 
 the monumental inscription of a scion of Danish 
 royalty at Lewes, in Sussex, where I then re- 
 sided. Affixed to the walls of the very ancient 
 church of St. John-sub-Castro there, there ex- 
 isted on two concentric arcs of a circle, and cut 
 on fifteen stones, an epitaph, which runs thus — 
 
 ' Clauditur hic Miles, D.\noru.m regia proles ; 
 Mangnus nomen EI ; mangN/E nota progeniei : 
 Deponens Mangnum, se moribus induit agnum, 
 Prepete pro vita fit parvulus Arnacorita.' 
 
 ' Here is immured a Soldier of the Royal Family of Den- 
 mark, whose name Magnus bespeaks his distinguished 
 lineage. Relinfjuishing his greatness, he assumes the de- 
 portment of a lamb, and exchanges a life of anibition for 
 that of a lowly anchorite.'' 
 
 ' I could never understand the reason why the // was introduced 
 into the name Magnus— but so it is.
 
 in Scandinavia. 65 
 
 Of this personage nothing is known in Eng- 
 land. There have been many theories con- 
 cerning him among local antiquaries, but I give 
 no credit to any of them. He must therefore 
 remain, I fear, ' a great unknown ' — Magnus 
 Ignotus, so far as English antiquarianism is 
 concerned. 
 
 I made a very careful and elaborate drawing 
 of this inscription at the time of its removal 
 from the old church of St. John-sub-Castro to 
 the new one ; and I had the pleasure, when at 
 Copenhagen, to present a faithful copy of it to 
 the Museum of Northern Antiquities there, in 
 the hope that some Danish archaeologist may 
 be able to throw light upon the princely recluse, 
 his history, and his genealogical connexion with 
 the kings of Denmark. I ought to have said 
 that the epitaph isundoubtedly of the thirteenth 
 century. 
 
 But to return from this digression. Thorkil, 
 prime minister of Birger, the successor of Mag-
 
 66 JVaysidc Notes 
 
 nus, a man of high and noble character, pro- 
 mulgated a law for the suppression of slavery. 
 ' What/ said he, ' is it not a monstrous sin that 
 Christians should sell men whom Christ has 
 redeemed by his blood ?' Slavery never existed 
 in Sweden from that period ; and thus it will 
 be seen that our Northern friends preceded us 
 by several centuries in the knowledge of the 
 true relation between man and man. 
 
 After the death of Magnus, Sweden was 
 again in a state of anarchy, and, in the year 
 1389, King Albert having been defeated and 
 captured, the crowns of the Swedes and Goths 
 were united with those of Denmark and Nor- 
 way by the illustrious Margaret, called, as we 
 have seen, the Semiramis of the North. Not 
 lonir afterwards arose the renowned Gustavus 
 Vasa, or Wasa. The Scandinavians make 
 scarcely any distinction between V and W, and 
 thus resemble our Cockneys. Vasa was truly a 
 ' man of the people,' a great statesman, and an
 
 in Scandinavia. 67 
 
 adherent to the doctrines of Luther. In 1529 
 the Romish Church as the national faith was 
 declared to be abolished, and Lutheranism be- 
 came the recognised religion of Sweden. In 
 1544 the States decreed the sovereignty to be 
 hereditary in his family. 
 
 Eric XIV., his eldest son and successor, was 
 very unsuccessful in his wooing. He first tried 
 his hand on our Queen Elizabeth; then upon 
 Mary Queen of Scots, thirdly on a princess 
 of Lorraine, and afterwards on a princess of 
 Hesse ; but these ladies all flouted him, and he 
 was obliged to put up with the daughter of a 
 peasant, who had been his mistress. His reign, 
 which was marked by cruelty and confusion, 
 ended in 1568, when he was deposed by his 
 brother John, imprisoned for ten years, and 
 then poisoned. 
 
 John tried to re-establish Romanism, but in 
 vain, and his descendants were ultimately ex- 
 cluded from the crown. Gustavus Adolphus,
 
 68 JJ\iysidc Notes 
 
 grandson of Gustaviis Vasa, reinvigorated the 
 army, and raised the military glory of Sweden 
 to a pitch hitherto unknown in Scandinavia. 
 He was but eighteen when he ascended the 
 throne, but his precocity in military affairs and 
 his high principles attracted the attention of the 
 whole civilized world. He shared the fate of 
 many of his predecessors, and was killed at the 
 battle of Lutzen, in 1632. After the celebrated 
 Thirty Years' War, Sweden was so raised in the 
 scale of nations that from an obscure state it 
 came to be considered one of the first of Euro- 
 pean powers. War after war succeeded, and 
 Sweden was again reduced to its original and 
 normal condition. There never was, since the 
 world began, so wretched a country as this, and 
 its history ought to be written in Utters of blood. 
 After a long lapse of time, the celebrated 
 Bernadotte, a family connexion of Bonaparte, 
 was recognised as king of Norway and Sweden, 
 and assumed the title of Charles xiv. He was
 
 in Scandinavia. 69 
 
 upon the whole a worthy monarch, and did his 
 best to improve the lower classes, and to 
 develop the commercial resources of the two 
 countries. After a long and most active life, he 
 departed this for a better, as I trust, in 1844. 
 
 To Bernadotte succeeded his son Oscar the 
 First, ' worthy son of worthy sire.' A better 
 king perhaps never existed. He died in 1859. 
 Altogether there is no country under heaver. 
 that has seen such vicissitudes as Sweden and 
 Norway. Clouds have for the most part per- 
 vaded its political atmosphere, but they have 
 been happily atoned for by the most glorious 
 bursts of sunshine that this chanceful world 
 ever witnessed. 
 
 And now let us look over Copenhagen, my 
 favourite city, and survey its glorious monu- 
 ments and treasures of art and literature. And 
 first, of the celebrated Round Tower, perhaps 
 the most remarkable building in the world — the
 
 70 IV ay side Notes 
 
 Pyramids of Egypt not excepted. It Is attached 
 to the Church of the Holy Trinity, and was 
 originally intended for an observatory, to 
 which use it was applied for upwards of two 
 centuries ; and it is an observatory still : not 
 In the sense of commandinor a view of the 
 heavenly bodies, but in that of being the best 
 point from which to view the city, which lies 
 at your feet, and forms a very glorious spectacle. 
 It stands in a street with the very unpronounce- 
 able name of Kjbba7nagergade. 
 
 It was erected by King Christian iv. The 
 tower consists of two hollow cylinders, and be- 
 tween them a spiral inclined plane winds from 
 the street to the summit, with an ascent suffi- 
 ciently safe and easy for a carriage and four to 
 ascend. In 1716, Catherine of Russia actually 
 performed this feat, accompanied by Peter the 
 Great as outrider! When Nelson bombarded 
 Copenhagen in 1S02, the treasures of the Uni- 
 versity Library were deposited In this tower. 
 
 t
 
 in Scandinavia. 71 
 
 Let us next visit the Thorvaldsen Museum — 
 a glorious sight, and worth a special pilgrimage 
 from any part of the civilized world. The build- 
 ing was erected about 1845, ^^ the expense of 
 the city, to contain the great sculptor's works. 
 Thorvaldsen, besides being one of the best 
 sculptors — Phidias himself not excepted — that 
 ever existed, was a man of almost universal 
 genius in the fine arts. He was generous too, 
 and bequeathed to Copenhagen his fine collec- 
 tion of sculptures and pictures, many of which 
 latter he had bought at high prices in Italy and 
 elsewhere. His tomb is an ornament to the 
 grounds attached to the Museum — ornament, I 
 say, though it is neither grand nor imposing ; 
 but to the eye of taste it has a peculiar charm 
 when we reflect on the greatness and goodness 
 of the man. The style of the building is excel- 
 lent, and classical and Etruscan ornaments are 
 its most attractive features. The external 
 frescoes represent the grand reception given to
 
 72 Wayside Notes 
 
 the great sculptor on his return from his travels 
 to Copenhagen, which occurred on September 
 I 7th, 1838. They have suffered much from the 
 climate of Denmark, where the weather is, in 
 some winters, unusually severe. The building 
 is quadrangular in plan, and consists of two 
 stories, the lower of which contains only sculp- 
 tures. The upper story is devoted to pictures 
 and sculpture, for which there is no room below 
 to spare. In each story there is a corridor 
 fronting the courtyard, and a number of small 
 rooms with bas-reliefs, and minor pieces of sculp- 
 ture, including busts of Lord Byron and Sir 
 Walter Scott. 
 
 To enumerate the various works of art in this 
 wonderful collection would be beyond tlie scope 
 of these pages ; but I must mention a few of 
 them. The famous ' Lion of Luzerne' is there ; 
 aiul in tile Great Hall there are several colossal 
 munuments, inchiding Poniatowski, Schiller, 
 I^ope Pius VII,, Copernicus, and, nutaljly, tlie
 
 /;/ Scandinavia. 73 
 
 finely-executed frieze of Alexander entering 
 Babylon, which was executed for the Quirinal at 
 Rome. Afterwards we see St. John preach- 
 ing in the Wilderness — a noble piece of art. 
 Then there are statues of Ganymede, Amor and 
 Psyche, Jason, the three Graces, Venus, Hebe, 
 Mars and Cupid, Vulcan, Mercury, etc. There 
 is also a statue of Jason, which, as Murray well 
 observes, ' has a special interest for Englishmen, 
 because it was an order given by one of our 
 countrymen for the execution of this figure, 
 which enabled Thorvaldsen to remain in Rome 
 at a time when his means were exhausted. It 
 was the first of his works that excited general 
 attention, and from that time dates his success,' 
 and his consequent fame. The ' Hall of Christ' 
 contains figures of our Saviour and the twelve 
 apostles, executed for Vor Frue Kirke (Our 
 Lady's Church — of which hereafter). Thorvald- 
 sen, though not a scholar as to education, was 
 thoroughly imbued with a classical taste, as is
 
 74 J J 'ay side A'o/cs 
 
 evident from every work of his which we behold. 
 The 'Hair is a most attractive place for both 
 the gentle and simple folk of Copenhagen, and 
 especially on Sunday afternoons, when soldiers, 
 shopkeepers, and the humblest peasants throng 
 this wonderful exhibition of art. Beyond the 
 hall there is another row of cabinets, the most 
 attractive features of which are Ganymede with 
 Jupiter's eagle, Cupid in triumph, the Graces 
 with Cupid's arrow, Adonis, the Shepherd, and, 
 most noteworthy, Thorvaldsen Jiimself reclining 
 on Hope. On the staircase is a model of the 
 celebrated Hercules, which stands in front of 
 the Christianborg palace. Among the pictures 
 in this noble collection are — 
 
 Williams's Roman Girl. 
 
 A Nor\vegian Cascade, by Dahl. 
 
 Pictures of Roman Life, by Meier. 
 
 Flowers and Fruits, by Jensen, the well-known Danish 
 
 I)aintcr. 
 A Marine View by Melbyc. 
 The Uurial of (^ur Lord, by Cornelius. 
 Danish landscapes, by Buntzcn and Lil)eri.
 
 /;/ Scandinavia. 75 
 
 A striking picture of Thorvaldsen and other artists at 
 
 Rome, by Blunck. 
 Pictures by Kierschou and Boisen (landscapes). 
 Horace Vernet's portrait of Thorvaldsen. 
 Marstrand's Popular Rejoicings at Rome, etc. etc. 
 
 On the opposite side is a similar range of 
 cabinets, containing the great sculptor's books, 
 and many articles of verlu, such as vases, coins, 
 and cameos, as well as the furniture of his house. 
 It is worthy of notice, too, that the last two 
 works of the great artist, a bust of Luther, and 
 a sketch for a bas-relief, are to be seen here. 
 
 In the court-yard, which is ornamented in the 
 Pompeian style, the immortal artist lies, as I 
 have before said, in his quiet grave, ornamented 
 with evergreens and roses — emblematical, as I 
 suppose, of the beauty of the artist's works, and 
 of his undying fame. 
 
 Altogether, Thorvaldsen's Museum may be 
 considered one of the greatest educational esta- 
 blishments in the world. It gives a healthy 
 tone of thought to both rich and poor. I have
 
 76 J Fay side iVofes 
 
 heard thousands of sermons in church and 
 chapel, but there are sermons in Thorvaldsen's 
 stones whicli are to my mind unequalled by the 
 ablest preachers alive. 
 
 My wife was particularly struck with one 
 object in the Museum — Cupid complaining to 
 his mother of a sting from a bee ; a story which 
 is well told by Anacreon, as follows : — 
 
 "EPflX TTOT iv p6BoL(7C 
 
 Koi/j,(Ofieuy]v fieXirrav 
 ovK elhev, aXh! erpdodr]' 
 TOP BaKTvXov Be Ba')(d€l<i 
 Td<i ^et/909, ooXoXv^e. 
 Apa/jLcov Be Kol Treraa-Oe'i^ 
 7rp6<; riji/ Ka\i]v KvOijptji/, 
 oXcoXa, /JxiTep, elirev, 
 6X(i)Xa, Kn7ro6vf'](TK(ii. 
 "0(f)L<i fi ervyfre p,iKpo<;, 
 7rT€p(i)T0<i, ov KciXovcri 
 fieXiTTav 01 yecopyoL 
 'A S" elirev, el to Kevrpov 
 TTovel TO ra? fieXirTa<;, 
 TTuaoi', BoKeL<;, irouuvaiv, 
 
 "EpOOf, U(TOV<; (TV /9ttXX€t9. 
 
 This ode has been paraphrased in English, and
 
 /// Scandinavia. 77 
 
 somewhat enlarged. I can only remember the 
 first portion of it, which runs thus : — 
 
 * Cupid once, in evil hour, 
 Cropped the pride of Flora's bower ; 
 Cropped a rose, nor chanced to see 
 Within its bud a sleeping bee. 
 Until his finger felt the smart. 
 Inflicted by its tiny dart ; 
 Flying then, with ruffled mien, 
 To the fair Idalian queen, 
 " Oh, mama," he wildly cries, 
 " Wounded, save ; your Cupid dies ! 
 Me a little serpent stung, 
 Hid the rose-bud leaves among, 
 'Decked with curious wings like me, 
 Ploughmen call the thing a Bee." ' 
 
 The moral of the tale is, that Venus says to 
 Cupid : ' You ought not to complain of the 
 sting of a bee, when you have wounded so many 
 hearts with your own winged arrows !' 
 
 The building which gave me more satisfaction 
 than any in the capital of Denmark is the 
 Museum of Northern Antiquities. Of all the 
 Museums I have visited — and they are by no
 
 yS Wayside Notes 
 
 means few — this is by far the best and most 
 instructive. It is so excellently and scientifi- 
 cally arranged, that there is probably nothing 
 like it elsewhere. 
 
 I was unfortunate in not meeting Professor 
 Worsaae and Professor Stephens, two of the 
 most celebrated antiquaries of Scandinavia, who 
 were both out of town ; but I found an excellent 
 substitute for them in Professor Engelhardt, 
 author of the Giiide Ilhistrd d^i Jlfusde des 
 Antiqiiitds dti Nord a Copcnhague, a most 
 interesting little work, which treats ably of the 
 subject. He may fairly take rank with the 
 most eminent of living archaeologists, and his 
 courteous demeanour at once wins the esteem 
 of the visitor. Here let me say that the letter- 
 press of his little Catalogue, and its illustrations.Jr 
 are aniong the l^est that I ever saw. Thiele 
 ii* tlic printer, and he may well be proud 
 of his workmanship. If my volume should 
 ever be reprinted in Scandinavia, 1 hope
 
 /;/ Scandinavia. 79 
 
 that it will issue from the ' Imprimerie de 
 Thiele.'^ 
 
 Professor Engelhardt arranges his catalogue 
 in five classes, as follows : — A. The Age of 
 Rough Stones and Implements, and those which 
 have been smoothed and polished, etc. B. The 
 Age of Bronze. C. The Iron Age, from a.d. 
 250 to 450. D. The Middle Age, in the Roman 
 style, down to about the year 1300. E. Modern 
 or Renaissance style, to about 1660. 
 
 The Museum is divided into nineteen salles 
 or apartments, and a detailed account of them 
 is given by M. Engelhardt. I shall follow his 
 arrangement. In the first apartment are the 
 rudest implements. There is a fine collection of 
 stone and bone implements which we English 
 antiquaries {I know not why), call celts} They 
 
 ^ There is a low Latin word celtis, meaning a chisel, and this 
 may possibly be the origin of the name of the implement, I 
 once believed, in common with most English antiquaries, that 
 these implements derive their name from the Celts (KeXroi), who 
 no doubt iised them, and brought them into Europe.
 
 8o IVayside Notes 
 
 may have been used either for the heads of 
 battle-axes, or as chisels for more peaceful 
 purposes. The workmanship is rude in the 
 extreme. They are, as the Professor observes, 
 cuttine instruments in flint or bone. The 
 ancient Scandinavians, as before remarked, 
 lived on the products of the chase, and of 
 fishing. The dog was the only domestic 
 animal. The people knew how to procure 
 fire, and used it to cook their provisions, and 
 Avere sufficienth- acquainted with the art of 
 pottery to make rough culinary vessels. 
 There are frequently found rude mounds of 
 earth called Kiokkenmoddengs, which modern 
 English antiquaries term ' Kitchen-middens.' 
 There is a remarkable specimen of this kind of 
 mounds on the heights of Newhaven, which 
 I assisted, some years ago, in opening, with 
 the aid of Mr. Henry Willett — just such a 
 mound, which, though surrounded by Roman 
 earthworks, was evidently of the prehistoric 
 
 J
 
 in Scandinavia. 8i 
 
 period, and might possibly be ascribed to the early 
 Scandinavians, on their first visits to this country. 
 The first case contains a collection of relics 
 procured from Meilgaard in Jutland, consisting 
 of combs, oyster shells, and those of other 
 shell-fish, fish, fish-bones, and bones evidently 
 crushed for the extraction of the marrow, the 
 remains of birds and fishes, and some utensils 
 of truly primitive origin ; but no human bones. 
 Second, Remains from the diggings at Meil- 
 gaard, including large pieces of stags' horns, 
 pierced with a hole to receive a handle, others 
 of a hammer-like form, and some intended for 
 needles and bodkins, and a sort of combs, which 
 the learned Professor thinks may have been 
 used for the manufacture of thread ; flint imple- 
 ments, both jagged and polished. There are like- 
 wise fragments of pottery, calcined stones, broken 
 bones of quadrupeds, and remains of birds^ 
 
 ^ The ornithological remains arc those of durks, heath-cocks 
 penguins, etc.
 
 82 IVayside Notes 
 
 and fishes. Third and Fourth, Articles dis- 
 covered in similar hillocks, on the shore of the 
 Cattegat, above a hundred yards higher than 
 the sea level. One of the places where they 
 were principally exhumed is Havelse, in See- 
 land (Zealand), where these mounds extend 
 over a distance of many hundred yards. Some 
 of them are from fifteen to nineteen yards in 
 length, and of considerable elevation. Fi/lh, 
 Antiquities from the island of Magles, also in 
 Zealand, consisting of llint implements and 
 calcined stones. The greater part of these 
 were found in pits, perhaps ancient forges, on 
 the banks of a stream, and were mixed with 
 charcoal and broken pottery. The remaining 
 cases in this salle contain appliances which are 
 supposed to have been used in some manu- 
 factory. There are ' piercers ' and scrapers, 
 and triangular hatchets. Most of these were 
 exhumed at Korscr and 1 liiulsholm, and the 
 wholct arc in llint.
 
 /;/ Scandinavia. 83 
 
 The second salle is also rich in relics of the 
 Stone Period, but of a more finished kind, the 
 productions principally of an atelier at Anholt, 
 an island in the Cattegat. There are many 
 flint knives and other implements, including 
 triangular hatchets and heads of arrows and 
 spears. In consequence of the irregularity of 
 oceanic movements in the northern regions, 
 what was once the realm of Neptune is now 
 firm ground, and the accumulation of sand has 
 entirely changed the contour of the coast, so 
 that things which would be supposed to have 
 been close to the sea are found considerably 
 inland. This, however, does not immediately 
 apply to my present subject. 
 
 Some remains of another manufactory dis- 
 covered at Hasselo, also in the Cattegat, are 
 in this apartment. They include many flint 
 celts and the refuse of their production. Be- 
 sides these, there are many fragments of broken 
 pottery, and many bones of the phoca^ or sea-
 
 84 J Fay side A'^ofcs 
 
 wolf, wlilch seems to have been a considerable 
 element in the food of the old Norsemen. A 
 number of hatchets from the same quarter are 
 here also. The date of these relics is of course 
 prehistoric, and they indicate a state of bar- 
 barism lower than can now be found in any 
 part of the world. The rest of this sal/c 
 contains a great number of other rude antiqui- 
 ties from various parts of Scandinavia. 
 
 The third salie is principally occupied by 
 polished or smooth celts, the second period of 
 the Stone Age, comprising ends of flint arrows, 
 with the appliances wherewith to affix them to 
 the weapon. There arc also some bone arrow- 
 heads, ornamented with rude incisions, one of 
 which is intended for the portrait of a frog ! 
 Then tliere are the spears of harpoons, flint 
 heads of lances, very nicely fmished, specimens 
 of scrapers in the forms of half-moons and 
 crescents, and (lint knives. Ke.xt we come to 
 groups of objects in stone dug up from marshes
 
 in Scandinavia. 85 
 
 and fields, principally in Jutland and Zealand. 
 There are also remains of amber necklaces 
 found in Jutland, at a place called Kaer 
 (? castrum), which has furnished 1800 pieces 
 deposited in a clay vessel. The richest deposi- 
 tory of this kind is Listen, near Randers in 
 Jutland, where there were found nearly four 
 thousand trinkets shut up in a little wooden 
 coffer, and Professor Engelhardt supposes that 
 they formed part of the stock-in-trade of an 
 early amber merchant. Next we have the 
 proceeds of dolmens, covered passages, or as 
 they are called, the ' Chambers of Giants.' 
 There we find artificial mounds, the centres of 
 which are graves, formed of great blocks, 
 covered with flagstones, encircled with hewn 
 stones ; also some remarkable relics from Skovs- 
 gaard, where, at the base of a tumulus, were 
 discovered, among other objects, three conti- 
 guous vaults constructed of rude stones, and 
 containing nearly one hundred skeletons. In
 
 86 J f "ay side Notes 
 
 a bed higlier up was discovered a polished 
 stone supporting three vases filled with burnt 
 bones, and some small objects in bronze. 
 
 Here let me remark, that in England, as 
 well as in Scandinavia, urn-burial and the Inter- 
 ment of the body, without cremation, existed 
 contemporaneously from a very early period. 
 A curious example of this practice was dis- 
 covered by the late eminent geologist. Dr. 
 Gideon Mantell, near the Caburn at Glynde, 
 on the South Downs, where both skeletons and 
 urns were found in juxtaposition.^ 
 
 We have here, too, some relics from a 
 'giant's chamber' at llielm. which contained 
 about fifteen skeletons, aiid a great number of 
 spear-heads, polished celts, hatchets, and chisels. 
 Noteworthy are the remains of another giant's 
 chamber from Uggcrslev near Odense, con- 
 sisting of fragments of liatchets, intentionally 
 
 ' Sec an illustr.itioii in Horsficld's llisloty of Lcucs, vol. i.
 
 in Scandinavia. ' 87 
 
 broken, — but why, it is difficult to guess, — and 
 a remarkable collection of little polished arrow- 
 heads. Some of the objects are from Skovs- 
 gaard. 
 
 I may here remark, that the tumulus referred 
 to bears a strong resemblance, as to its ground- 
 plan, to several relics in our own land, and I 
 may specially mention two : one at Bosphrenes 
 in Cornwall, and the other at Buxted in Sussex. 
 
 Next we see relics of amber necklaces, and 
 the fragments of numerous earthen pots ; and 
 afterwards the products oi dolmens from Zealand. 
 The diggings in a tumulus from a place near 
 Borreby present some remarkable peculiarities. 
 The cave was full of skeletons of men, women, 
 and children, at least eighty in number ; 
 whether a kind of family-vault or a general 
 burying-place it is impossible to guess. There 
 are also relics of human bones, partially burnt, 
 found in a tumulus at Hammor. Then there 
 are many sepulchral vases and goblets of small
 
 88 J Tay side Notes 
 
 dimensions, made by hand, some with handles 
 as if for suspension, and occasionally radier 
 prettily ornamented, some of the crevices being 
 filled with a white substance, probably zinc ; 
 and specially, a large vase found in a marsh 
 at Birkerod near Copenhagen. In Case 46 
 tiiere are some very interesting relics, com- 
 prising hatchets, knives, and other implements 
 in bone, the use of some of which can only be 
 guessed at. 
 
 Next we see a number of bone implements 
 looking like weapons, though they may have 
 been intended for more harmless uses. There 
 are also a number of free-stone implements, of 
 which, as Professor Engclhardt observes, the 
 uses are unknown. They are however beauti- 
 fully finished, and show a vast amount of care 
 and industry. 
 
 Now we come to the Bronze Period. In 
 the fourlli chamber there is an abundance of 
 very interesting objects. W hy bronze was used
 
 in Scandinavia. 89 
 
 before iron I could never learn. Bronze is a 
 compound metal, while iron ore is found on the 
 surface, nearly all over the world. 
 
 This fourth hall contains cutting implements 
 of bronze, which upon analysis is found to con- 
 tain nine-tenths of copper and one-tenth of tin. 
 It is curious to observe that, although many 
 objects are ornamented with gold, neither silver 
 nor iron turns up in those primeval days. 
 
 I daresay that gold was more plentiful in 
 Scandinavia in those olden times than it is now. 
 I never saw a piece of gold coin there, the cur- 
 rency being silver and copper. They have, of 
 course, a currency of gold, but it rarely meets 
 the eye, as almost all transactions are carried 
 on in paper and silver. 
 
 The Professor thinks that the bronze used by 
 the old Scandinavians was of foreign origin, and 
 this opinion is probably correct. How and 
 where the mixed metals came together nobody 
 knows. Most of our manufactured articles are
 
 90 JVtiyside Notes 
 
 the result of what some call accidents ; but I 
 believe that they were given to us by the Pro- 
 vidence of Almighty God. Take glass for 
 instance. 
 
 Cases 51 to 54 contain the remains found in 
 wooden coffins formed from the trunks of oak 
 trees, without the aid of a saw. One remark- 
 able instance of interment was at the bottom of 
 a grave, where the remains of a man in his vest- 
 ments, and with his arms, were found lying on 
 a bullock's hide. A tumulus at Treenhoi in 
 Jutland had four of these wooden coffins, one 
 of which contained clothino- of manufactured 
 wool almost perfectly preserved, consisting of a 
 cap, a mantle, antl a kind o{ jupon. Several 
 other relics, including bronze ornaments, were 
 e.xhumed. A similar, tumulus, also contain- 
 ing four coffins and various bronze implements, 
 was opened at Kongshoi, in the same neighbour- 
 hood. 
 
 At No. 55 wc find remains from a tumulus
 
 in Scandinavia. 91 
 
 with vaults of unhewn stones, covered with 
 flag-stones and planks of wood, containing 
 skeletons, and covered with a kind of cairn. 
 From a barrow of this kind in Jsegersborg 
 Wood near Copenhagen we see relics of a war- 
 rior's tomb with a circular shield, elaborately 
 wrought, a sword, a hatchet, and other articles 
 in bronze. 
 
 One of the most ancient tombs containing 
 burnt human bones was opened at Hvidegaard, 
 also near Copenhagen. In it were found frag- 
 ments of flint, a woollen mantle covering the 
 bones, with all the appearance of having been 
 placed there with funeral ceremonies ; also 
 a bronze sword in a scabbard of wood covered 
 with leather, a fibula, fragments of a wooden 
 vase, and two bronze knives, the head of a flint 
 dart, the tail of a snake, the claw of a falcon, etc. 
 
 The learned Professor is of opinion that 
 the person thus interred w^as both a magician 
 and a warrior, which seems extremely probable.
 
 92 JJ^aysidc Azotes 
 
 I wonder what sort of a fellow he was, and when 
 he lived and died. 
 
 In the fourth apartment there are some of the 
 most remarkable bronze articles I ever saw ; 
 particularly a highly finished poignard from 
 Flyndcr in Jutland, and a very curious trumpet 
 in the form of a reversed letter S, with a chain 
 attached, and highly ornamented. It is perhaps 
 the greatest curiosity in the whole Museum. 
 There arc others, but of less elaborate workman- 
 ship. This one came from Maltboeck. I was 
 told that the instrument could still be blown by 
 a person possessed of great powers of lung. 
 
 At No. 58 there arc the remains of burnt 
 bones found at Voldtofte in a tomb, and covered 
 with a flacifstone. It also contained a lar^^e 
 bronze vessel, three smaller ones, two knives, 
 and a few minor objects in gold and bronze. 
 In 59 there is a beautiful dagger from Breum 
 in Jutland, which was discovcretl in a tumulus 
 with two gold bracelets. But it would far exceed
 
 /// Scandinavia. 93 
 
 the limits of these sketches to give a detailed 
 account of all the articles in this noble Museum; 
 and therefore I must confine myself to the most 
 striking- and remarkable objects. Indeed, there 
 are so many burnt human bones, relics in bronze 
 and gold, votive swords, knives, awls, needles, 
 buttons, rings, and such-like, together with 
 handles of implements terminating in the heads 
 of horses and swans, that it would require a 
 catalogue larger than this book to describe or 
 even to give an imperfect account of them all. 
 The zealous antiquary must go himself to Copen- 
 hagen to realize the beauties and curiosities of 
 this remarkable collection ; and when there, I 
 hope he will procure M. Engelhardt's valuable 
 brochure as a guide. 
 
 In the fifth chamber are many curious relics 
 of discoveries made in the open fields at some 
 feet below the surface, either covered with a 
 large stone, or enclosed in a vase. Many of 
 these are presumed to be of religious origin ;
 
 94 JJ\iysidc Notes 
 
 and I am disposed to think that they are prin- 
 cipally the graves of hermits or recluses. In 
 the small island of Munko near Faaborg were 
 disinterred, from a blackish soil, six small gold 
 vessels, three above the other three, and covered 
 with a stone. M. Enwlhardt has stronof rea- 
 sons for thinking that most, if not all, of these 
 articles are of Scandinavian manufacture. 
 
 In the sixth sallc we come to the Iron Age, a 
 very interesting period. M. Engelhardt observes 
 that, ' vers le milieu du 3"™'' siccle de notre ere, 
 le fer est d'un usage general en Danemark, 
 pour la confection des armes et des instruments 
 tranchants.' He adds that the use of iron brought 
 with it a civilisation entirely different from that 
 which existed in the age of bronze. Contem- 
 poraneously with iron, we find the introduction 
 of silver and glass in Scandinavia. The manu- 
 facture of woollen cloth was also admirable. I 
 am half inclined to believe that some new national 
 element was introduced into the North at the
 
 in Scandinavia. 95 
 
 period referred to. Rude art, which cannot 
 have been derived from classical sources, seems 
 also to have been contemporary. The repre- 
 sentations of plants, animals, fantastic figures, 
 and of men frequently occur. Well-constructed 
 boats, and the use of horses, both for riding and 
 draught, also appear to belong to this epoch, 
 as do also the most ancient remains of alpha- 
 betic writing. The introduction of iron and 
 of writing, as we have every reason to believe, 
 have in all countries been the precursors of 
 civilisation, and the amelioration of the condi- 
 tion of human life. The Iron Age, as described 
 by some classical authors, is an error ! 
 
 Of the religious opinions of the early Scandi- 
 navians we have no knowledo^e. The sinsrular 
 character of the remains found under ereat 
 stones in the fields and sand-banks shows that the 
 dead were buried with their treasures beside 
 them. It would seem somehow that they had 
 intercourse with the civilized inhabitants of
 
 96 Wayside Notes 
 
 southern Europe, for we find in their graves 
 Roman coins, ranging from a.d. 63 to 217; 
 with those of the Eastern Empire from 425 to 
 525 ; and even Cufic money of the ninth, tenth, 
 and eleventh centuries. Empty graves some- 
 times occur, probably in honour of persons who 
 have died out of the country or on the sea, and 
 they may therefore be placed in the category 
 of cenotaphs or empty tombs. A noticeable 
 feature in the Scandinavian graves is that many 
 of them contain classical or at least latinized 
 names, such as Nigellio F(ecit), Disaugus f. r. 
 Ciri PoLiBi F. (Publius Cipius Polibius fecit), 
 etc. One or two relics have even Greek charac- 
 ters upon them. It may well l3e supposed that 
 at least some of the articles were brought from 
 the South and the East by Scandinavian pirates, 
 and were not manufactured in the north. 
 
 rVom 1S59 to 1863 .systematic 'diggings' 
 were carried on in .Schleswig for the Museum of 
 Flcnsborg, and many curious things were dis-
 
 /// Scandinavia. ori 
 
 covered, particularly in the turfy marsh at 
 Nydam, which was once covered by an arm of 
 the sea; and many boats, oars, etc., were ex- 
 humed, especially one boat, the remains of which 
 have been put together. It is more than twenty 
 yards long, and an excellent woodcut of it is 
 given in M. Engelhardt's Guide. (Let me say 
 here, that the art of wood-engraving is carried 
 on in Copenhagen to great perfection, and that 
 it is not surpassed in any part of the world.) 
 The contents of these vessels were, among many 
 other objects, fragments of shields, umbos, 
 armour, knives, awls, etc. One of the most 
 curious things in the Museum is a perfect helmet 
 of bronze covered with a crown, indicating, no 
 doubt, that it belonged to the armour of some 
 eminent chieftain. It is curiously formed, and 
 it covered all the head with the exception of 
 openings for the mouth, nose, and eyes. It is 
 in repoussd work, and ornamented with gold 
 and silver. 
 
 G
 
 98 J J ^ay side N'otes 
 
 In the seventh apartment are the results of a 
 digging for the Museum at a sacred spot in the 
 Vimose, near Odense. This marshy locaHty is 
 surrounded by embankments, and it was found 
 to contain fragments of coats-of-mail and orna- 
 ments. A number of combs were included in 
 \\\^ Jhid, one of which is inscribed with Runic 
 characters. M. Engelhardt accounts for such 
 remains being found in marshy spots by giving 
 an analogous instance from classical histor)-. I 
 give it in his own words, as partly quoted from 
 Tacitus : " Apres la victoire qu'ils remporterent 
 sur les Romains prcs du Rhone, non loin 
 d'Orange, (en 105 avant J. C.) les Cimbres res- 
 tds maitres dcs deux camps et d'un immense 
 hiitiii, anc^antirent avcc un anatheme (execratio) 
 nouveau et inusitc, tout ce qui etaittomb6 en leur 
 pouvoir. Les v^tements fiirent laccrcs et dis- 
 perses, Tor et I'argent jetes dans le fleuve, les 
 cottes de maillcs coupccs en niorceaux, les pha- 
 leres mises en pieces, les chevaux eux-memes
 
 m Scmtdinavia. 99 
 
 prccipit^s dans le gouffre et les hommes pendus 
 aux arbres par le cou, de sorte qu'il n'y eut pas 
 plus de biitin pour le valnqueur que de miscri- 
 corde pour le vaincu." I think this conjecture 
 very probable, especially as Odin, the great 
 Danish God (whose name appears in this con- 
 nexion), was the Jack- Ketch of the Norsemen 
 — the patron of hanging ! 
 
 In the eiohth salle are found blacksmith's 
 tools, etc., dug up in natural hillocks, in Zealand. 
 One of the most remarkable objects is a female 
 skeleton found in the Island of Falster, ac- 
 companied by articles of the early iron period. 
 It was dug up in a marshy spot, and the woman 
 had probably been guilty of infidelity to her 
 husband; for Tacitus in his "Germania" in- 
 forms us that, according to the law of some of 
 the Northern nations, a woman who had deserted 
 'her husband ought to be thrown into a bog. In 
 this department are seen traces of the early in- 
 tercourse between Scandinavia and the East.
 
 loo 1 Fay side Notes ~ 
 
 Byzantine coins, struck between the years 425 
 and 525, go far to prove this. Gold, at this 
 epoch, seems to have been more abundant 
 tlian in an)- other in Northern history. In 
 the Museum (131) we find collars, bracelets, 
 and rings, all of the precious metal. In ex- 
 cavating in a field at Broholm in Fionie, there 
 were discovered articles in gold, the most valu- 
 able find ever made in Denmark : it was in 
 weight more than four kilogrammes, and valued 
 at from ten to twelve thousand francs. This 
 treasure, probably dating from the fifth or sixth 
 centur)', was accompanied by many curious 
 articles. 
 
 Previously to about the year 1000, the Scan- 
 dinavians carried on all their commercial trans- 
 actions by means of exchange, and paid for 
 their purchases l)ars of precious metal, rings, 
 etc. ; but about the date mentioned they intro- 
 duced a coinage of a very rude kind. 
 
 In the third and last epoch of iron — the epoch 
 
 I
 
 ill Scandinavia. loi 
 
 ot the Vikings — Roman and Byzantine relics in- 
 troduced a oreneral advancement in the arts of 
 civilisation. The weapons of war began to be 
 finished in a better style, and a particular altera- 
 tion took place in their dimensions. Twisted 
 draofons and enchevetrds became common orna- 
 ments. Still Scandinavia as yet remained un- 
 christianized, although western and central 
 Europe had long previously accepted the gos- 
 pel. This was the period of great conquests. 
 Normandy fell into the hands of the northern 
 nations, and that well-known pirate-chieftain, 
 Rollo, made himself dtix or chieftain of the 
 province. I n the words of the chronicler William 
 de Jumieges (lib. ii. cap. 4), ' Nortmanni dicun- 
 tur quia, lingua eorum, Boreas Noj'th vocatur, 
 homo vero Man ; id est Homines Boreales, 
 per denominationem nuncupantur.' I feel al- 
 most certain that Rollo was a Norwegian, and 
 not a Dane, as is generally supposed. 
 
 Professor Engelhardt remarks that, tow^ards
 
 102 JJ' ay side Notes 
 
 the end of this period of the Iron Age, the North 
 is very rich in Cufic coins and Eastern orna- 
 ments, indicating the relations of Scandinavia 
 (perhaps indirect) with Oriental nations. 
 
 No. 13S contains some curious relics found in 
 the island of Falster, including a ploughshare, 
 and a great number of articles in silver enclosed 
 in a bronze vase — a strano^e association. There 
 were also Arabic and European coins, which fix 
 the date of the deposit not later than the year 990. 
 On the same spot there were also brought to 
 li}/ht bars of silver, diadems, collars, bracelets, 
 
 O 7 11. 
 
 either whole or broken, an 'car-bob' in the form 
 of a T, and some buckles. Tliis collection 
 appears to me more like a robber's hoard than 
 a place of human interment, as it was only about 
 a foot underground, and no skeleton was there. 
 No. 145 contains some most interesting re- 
 mains from Sollested in I'ionie, found under an 
 artificial hillock. In it were discovered a funer- 
 eal vault with walls and a pavement covc;red
 
 in Scandinavia. 103 
 
 with clay. Close by was an urn filled with 
 what are considered the burnt bones of a human 
 body, and near it remains of horse-harness, and 
 vessels in bronze. The character of these re- 
 mains, as M. Engelhardt observes, shows them 
 to have been deposited in the latest period of 
 paganism in Denmark, ' We recall,' says the 
 Professor, ' the description given in one of our 
 Sagas of the funeral of Harald Hildeland, who 
 was slain at the battle of Braavalla, about the 
 middle of the eighth century. After the battle 
 Sigurd Ring caused search to be made for his 
 uncle's body, which when it had been washed 
 and placed on the funeral car, was carried to 
 his place of interment, which Ring had ordered 
 to be made. Then his horse was slaughtered 
 and placed in the tumulus, with Ring's saddle 
 upon him, so that the slain monarch might ap- 
 pear in the Valhalla [the Scandinavian heaven] 
 properly equipped ! Ring then gave a great 
 funeral banquet, and recommended all the
 
 1 04 IVayside Notes 
 
 grandees and the warriors present to cast into 
 the grave some large rings and good weapons, 
 in honour of King Harald. After this had been 
 done the grave was carefully covered up.' 
 
 In the ninth sallc are many monumental stones 
 with Runic inscriptions — but of these hereafter. 
 
 The tenth apartment, which is chiefly devoted 
 to the mediaeval period, contains some stones 
 with Runic inscriptions, especially one which 
 imports that Asur had placed it to the memory 
 of his brother Aaskl, who died at Kurubielant 
 (probably Carelie in Finland), The upper part 
 has an epitaph in Runic characters. There are 
 also two Runic stones, which i\I. Engelhardt 
 thinks belong to the early age of Scandinavian 
 Christianity. Next we see a tombstone of a 
 Danish bishop, who probably died in 1 134 : this 
 was found at Gjesenholm. The efilgy of the 
 bishop is carved in relief. At his feet we see a 
 holy lamb holding a cross with one of his feet. 
 The inscription is in runes, except one word,
 
 in Scmidinavia. 105 
 
 which is in Roman letters. A tombstone from 
 Kierte in Fionie also deserves attention. It is 
 roof-shaped, and is supposed to date from the 
 eleventh century. The subjects represented on 
 it in relief are a man, supposed to be intended 
 for the deceased, fighting with a centaur, the 
 emblem of evil. His weapon is a bow and 
 arrow. Behind the centaur is an angel (perhaps 
 St. Michael), with a tiny figure of the defunct, to 
 represent his soul, which he evidently intends 
 to carry to heaven. On the other side is a 
 lion with a man's head in his mouth, alluding 
 possibly to a verse in St. Peter : ' Your ad- 
 versary the devil, as a roaring lion, walketh 
 about seeking whom he may devour.' There 
 is also a most hideous bowl-shaped font from 
 Vendsyssel in Jutland, with the figure of a 
 woman whom two lions are biting. This sculp- 
 ture is no doubt emblematical of something — 
 but of what I do not pretend to guess. 
 
 In the eleventh apartment we observe a sword.
 
 io6 IFiiysidc lYofcs 
 
 the handle of which is carved from the tooth of 
 a morse or sea-horse, and ornamented with inter- 
 laced serpents, recalling by their character the 
 latest times of paganism. In 154-157 are ob- 
 jects designed for religious purposes, as censers, 
 one of which is inscribed in Runic characters — 
 ' iVIagister Jacobus Ruffus me fecit ; ' water 
 vessels for the service of the altars, in the form 
 of horsemen, rams, lions, and fabulous animals ; 
 reliquaries, one of which encloses a relic of St. 
 Olaf, king of Norway, before mentioned ; a piece 
 of crystal with an incised cross and containing a 
 relic ; a cross in morse-tooth ivory with figures 
 of Christ in his glory, with the just at his right 
 hand and sinners on his left ; the poor man in 
 Abraham's bosom, and Dives in the torments of 
 hell ; and many other objects too numerous to 
 be mentioned here. 
 
 The twelfth apartment contains articles of 
 the second epoch of the middle ages — that is, 
 from the thirteenth century to the period of the
 
 in Scandinavia. 107 
 
 Reformation in 1536. There are articles for 
 relieious uses, such as ' stational ' crosses, wax 
 candlesticks of painted wood, altars of painted 
 and gilded wood, a ' tombeau du Christ,' etc. 
 In salle thirteenth (181) there are papal bulls 
 and other written documents, and numerous 
 noteworthy articles, including painted glass 
 and little portable chapels in which the Romish 
 priests place the sacred elements when they visit 
 the sick and dying. In salle fourteenth there are 
 the basins of baptismal fonts, pyxes, chalices, 
 and other sacramental objects, all from Danish 
 churches. In the fifteenth, one of the most 
 curious things is a chandelier in terra cotta for 
 two candles. It is fashioned in the form of a 
 barbican or entrance to a castle, with two towers 
 and many windows, and Gothic archways. 
 
 Of the modern period there is little to be 
 said, and so I must leave the sixteenth, seven- 
 teenth, eighteenth, and nineteenth salles with 
 but few words. There are some fine tapestry,
 
 io8 J Fay side Notes 
 
 sculpture, clocks and watches (one of which 
 belonged to Tycho Brahe, and bears his name 
 and device, ' Quo fata me trahunt'), carvings 
 in wood and other materials, pictures, armour, 
 altars in silver and ebony, and various addi- 
 tional things very pleasant to look at, but hard 
 to describe. 
 
 A very curious article is to be seen in this 
 valuable Museum — Oueen Da^^mar's Cross. 
 This lady was the wife of King Valdemar ii., 
 the 'Victorious,' and Professor Stephens, 
 F.S.A., etc., has written a very interesting ac- 
 count of it in a brochure published in 1863.^ 
 I give a brief summary of it, partly in the Pro- 
 fessor's own words : — 
 
 'In the year 1205, one of the noblest and 
 
 ' Notwithstanding the great antiquarian knowledge of the 
 learned Professor, I must protest against his orthography ; for 
 he writes sovcran for sovereign, scull for skull, puhlislit for pub- 
 lished, approcht for approached, and such like ; and although 
 he knows how Englishmen pronounce the name of the capital 
 of Denmark, he chooses to call it Chcapitti^haven !
 
 in Scandinavia. 109 
 
 most powerful monarchs then ruling in Europe, 
 Waldemar 11., or the Victorious, king of Den- 
 mark, sent a splendid embassy under the bold 
 younker Strang^ to Meissen, and begged the 
 hand of the young and fair Dagmar Margareta, 
 daughter of Premsyl Otakar i,, king of Bohemia 
 and Adela of Meissen. She was not denied 
 him, reached Denmark in the same year, and in 
 the words of the ballad : 
 
 " Silk along the earth was spread ; 
 
 So many gilded pennants ; 
 To land that lady was y-led, 
 So sails the Younker Strange to the Lady Dagmar. 
 
 His bride embraced he quick, I ween ; 
 
 So many gilded pennants ; 
 Gave her gold-crown and name of Queen, 
 So sails the Younker Strange to the Lady Dagmar.'' 
 
 ' Wedded with great state at Ribe, her life 
 was a dance on roses. Beloved by her husband, 
 she was the darling of his people. Beauty, 
 mildness, mercy, drew every heart. Her first 
 public act was one of grace and large-hearted 
 sympathy.'
 
 I lo JVayside Notes 
 
 In the northern nations it was the custom for 
 the bride, the day after the wedding, to ask the 
 bridegroom a favour or two. This Queen 
 Dagmar did. Her first request was that the 
 King would release her uncle, Bishop Waldemar, 
 from prison ; secondly, that he would give up 
 all plough-pennies (a kind of feudal rents) ; and 
 thirdly, release all those who sat in irons — mean- 
 ing, I suppose, all the prisoners in the kingdom. 
 
 ' As might be expected, she became, and she 
 still remains, the idol of Denmark, worthily 
 dividing the affection of the Commons with the 
 redoubted Queen Tkyre, " Danmark's Bot," who 
 built the great wall against the Saxons, as after- 
 wards with " the Semiramis of the north," Queen 
 Margaret, that masculine heroine (a counterpart 
 (jf our own I'^lizabeth) who. by the famous 
 Calmar-union, first gave shape to that deep 
 longing for a [united] Scandinavia. Singularly 
 enough, Dagmar's ver)- name assumed a poi)ular 
 fi)rm, and a symbolical meaning. It was origin-
 
 in Scandinavia. 1 1 1 
 
 ally Dragomir (the dear peacemaker), a Sclavic 
 appellation long borne by the ladies of her house. 
 But this meant nothing in her new country, and 
 it speedily passed into Dagmar (the Day-may, 
 the Maiden of the Dawn), whereby alone she is 
 now known all the Northlands over. 
 
 ' Thus, reigning in all men's hearts, year after 
 year llitted away. And during this period she 
 must have often accompanied her kingly partner 
 to Ringsted, where stood a magnificent church, 
 the resting-place of the patron saint of Denmark 
 — Holy Cnut, Martyr, her husband's grand- 
 father. This cloister church, originally dedicated 
 to Our Lady and St. Benedict, was then one 
 of the finest in Northern Europe, and, in spite 
 of melancholy alterations and " restorations," is 
 still a remarkable one. It had at this period 
 become the royal mausoleum, the acknowledged 
 death-home for the members of the royal 
 dynasty, as well as their favourite resort when 
 living. Hence " Ringsted will soon see him,"
 
 1 1 2 IVayside Notes 
 
 said of any Danish prince at this time, signified 
 that Rino^sted church would soon see him de- 
 
 posited in one of its silent grave-kists 
 
 But Fortune's wheel stayeth not. Seven short 
 summers are gone, and, the pains of a cruel 
 childbed overtaking her — 
 
 " Queen Dagniar lieth in Ribe sick, 
 Ringsted her soon will see ; 
 To leech-wives the wisest all Denmark through, 
 
 She sends in her agony. 
 Queai Dagmar she resteih there hi Ringsted." 
 
 She immediately sent, when her condition was 
 hopeless, a messenger for King Valdemar, whom 
 the young page found playing at " tables " in one 
 of his palaces ; of course he was startled and 
 grieved beyond expression. 
 
 " Dan-king the tables shutlcth (juickly, 
 
 Clattered the dice and sung : — 
 ' God the Father forbid it now, 
 
 That Dagmar should die so young.' 
 Queen Dagmar she resteth there in I\ingsted." 
 
 Accordini; to the legend, the King on his
 
 ill Scandinavia. 1 1 3 
 
 arrival found his beloved Queen lifeless ; but at 
 
 his approach her strong love called back her 
 
 soul, and she took leave of her weeping husband, 
 
 and prayed for outlaws and fettered prisoners. 
 
 ' Then she died for ever. 
 
 " Her eyes she stroketh yet once more, 
 Her cheeks they were so white : 
 ' Heaven's Chimes, they are ringing for me, 
 No longer can I bide ! ' 
 Queefi Dagmar she resteth there in RingstedJ^' 
 
 This noble and virtuous Queen was of course 
 
 buried at Ringsted, and probably, as Professor 
 
 Stephens observes, some costly monument was 
 
 placed over her ; but ' in later times the grave 
 
 has been opened and rifled. It contains only 
 
 trifling and dubious remains of Dagmar's body, 
 
 and a couple of petty fragments of the old leaden 
 
 coffin.' In addition thereto, there was exhibited 
 
 in Ringsted church, in the last century, a skull, 
 
 said to be that of the beautiful Queen. It was 
 
 deposited in a cupboard in the church, as stated 
 
 in a manuscript relating to that building (dated 
 
 H
 
 114 IVaysidc Notes 
 
 1769), ' that an ungodly fellow, some fourteen or 
 sixteen years ago, found a chance of stealing it 
 away.' 
 
 It was probably in connexion with this bar- 
 barous sacrilege that Dagmar's Cross was 
 brought to the light of day. ' Certain it is, that 
 this precious work of art has alwaj'S borne her 
 name, and that ever since 1737 there has been a 
 constant tradition that it was found in her grave.' 
 The Danish antiquary Herbst has shown that 
 it was added to the royal chamber of artin the 
 Palace Museum as early as 1695, so that some 
 'rifling' of the good Queen's grave, and even 
 then witli the addition to the j^rotocol : * this is 
 said to have been worn b}- Queen Margareta 
 Dagmar, King Waldemar 11. his spouse.' In 
 that collection it remained until 1845, when ^^ 
 was transferred to the newl)-founded Museum 
 of Northern Antiquities, * wliich has since be- 
 come so famous for its matchless treasures.' 
 
 This relic is a constant attraction to all
 
 in Scandinavia. 115 
 
 visitors, * for if there was ever a woman regarded 
 for centuries as holy, it was Queen Dagmar.' 
 Even less than a century ago, when a farmer or 
 peasant went to Ringsted Church, he would 
 approach the Queen's grave, and say, * Dagmar, 
 hail ! ' 
 
 That excellent and archaeological monarch, 
 King Frederik vii., who devoted so much of his 
 time and learning to the conservation of national 
 monuments, took this cross as a model for a 
 weddihof crift to our Princess Alexandra on her 
 departure for England. He caused a facsimile 
 of the cross to be made, arranged so as to open, 
 and placed within it a fragment of silk, a small 
 piece of wood, and a tiny slip of parchment. 
 The silk was cut from the cushion on which the 
 head of Cnut, king and patron-saint of Denmark, 
 was found resting when his tomb was opened in 
 1833. This cushion is preserved in the Museum. 
 The small fragment of wood was taken from a 
 reliquary (now also in the Museum), in which it
 
 1 1 6 JJ^ayside A^ofcs 
 
 lay, purporting to be a fragment of the Cross of 
 Christ, with the inscription ' De ligno D'ni.' 
 The sHp of parchment has an inscription : 
 ' Sericum de pulvinari, S^' Canuti, Regis et 
 Patroni Daniae, manu Frederiki vii., regius 
 Daniae, abscissum ' {silk from tJic pillow of St. 
 Ciuit, king and patron of Denmaj'k, cut off by 
 the ha7id of Frederik the Sevefith, King of 
 De7i7na7'k) . 
 
 * Thus King Frederik endeavoured to make 
 the new cross a true copy of the original. Its 
 greatest value in the eyes of Dagmar doubtless 
 was that it contained costly relics.' On one side 
 of it is a rude fio^ure of Christ on the cross, with 
 some unintelligible figures below. On the other 
 side arc five small medallions, with Christ in 
 the centre, the Virgin Mary at his right, St. 
 John at his k:ft, St. Basil above, and St. John 
 Chrysostom below, their names, contracted, 
 being in Greek characters. This most curious 
 relic of ancient art. which is less than two inches 
 
 1
 
 in Scandinavia. 1 1 7 
 
 in length, is evidently of Byzantine workman- 
 ship. 
 
 But one of the most striking features of this 
 great Museum is the Runic Hall, concerning 
 which Professor Stephens has printed a separate 
 and well-illustrated monograph. Professor and 
 State-Councillor Worsaae founded this hall in 
 March 1867, when, as Professor Stephens ob- 
 serves, it was high time that these old lares 
 should be taken care of and conveniently placed. 
 Some of them, for want of room, were lying in 
 out-of-the-way places in the Museum, some in 
 Trinity Churchyard, and others in the Round 
 Tower — all more or less liable to injury. They 
 bear the oldest remains of written language, 
 dating many hundreds of years before our 
 earliest parchments. * They open up pictures 
 of the life, death, and exploits of our forefathers 
 that cannot be found elsewhere, and they offer a 
 striking proof of the oneness of all the Northern 
 folks/lips'
 
 ii8 Way side Notes 
 
 The Professor remarks, that the most ancient 
 pieces have inscriptions in an alphabet called 
 ' Old Northern;' but this gradually became much 
 modified and altered. 1 1 is greatly to be regretted 
 that in Denmark, where stone is comparatively 
 rare, these grand old memorials of ages long 
 gone by should be ruthlessly broken up as soon 
 as found. A Danish gentleman told the Pro- 
 fessor that in 1867 he visited Jutland. When 
 at Skive he heard that a Runic monument had 
 been found a few days before. He drove to 
 Haderup, about three Danish miles off, and 
 talked with the finder, who informed him that 
 the stone had been beaten into many pieces, and 
 that all the fragments had been either used or 
 thrown away. At least fifty of these blocks 
 were destroyed within this century, in Denmark 
 alone, and several of them were Old Northern. 
 Alas ! that the common people in every country 
 — our own not excepted — should be so regard- 
 less of the relics of ' hoar antiquity.'
 
 in Scandinavia, 119 
 
 These stones are rude in the extreme, of ir- 
 regular shape, and unhewn; still the runes are 
 for the most part readable by antiquaries skilled 
 in the subject. The Professor's monograph con- 
 tains many illustrations of them on a large scale. 
 The first stone is supposed to have come from 
 a how or tumulus, discovered long ago near 
 Vordingborg, and its date is conjectured to be 
 about A.D. 600 or 700. It is of granite minne- 
 stone. It was first noticed by the famous chan- 
 cellor Christian Fris, about the middle of the 
 seventeenth century, when it was lying as a 
 paving stone under the excise-office at Vordin- 
 borg, and it was then transported to Copenhagen. 
 It was broken when first conveyed thither, but 
 it has been since mended : it is about 4 feet 5 
 inches long. The runes of the inscription are 
 from 3i to 4 inches in length. 
 
 The next stone is of much ruder form and 
 execution, and is also of granite. It came from 
 Helnses. The foolish workmen who found it
 
 120 JVaysidc Notes 
 
 broke it into three pieces, and two of them were 
 used as gate-posts ! but they are now put to- 
 gether again. The carver's name is placed on 
 this reHc, thus : ' ^uaeir Fayed sculptured this 
 stone and these runes.' 
 
 It may be remarked that the person here com- 
 memorated was drowned, and many other runic 
 monuments mention death by drowning ; which 
 is not to be wondered at, when we consider that 
 seafaring men, who constituted a large propor- 
 tion of the population of Scandinavia, were con- 
 stantly exposed to the disasters of a most 
 dangerous ocean. 
 
 The next stone, 4 feet 2 inches broad, and 
 2 I inches in lliickness, was found at Snoldelev 
 in Zealand, and is of the date of about a.d. 700 
 or 800. It is formed of a species of granite, 
 and has upon it three horns, supposed to 
 be an emblem of Thor, and a singularly 
 shaped cross, which may be that of Woden. 
 Its inscription runs thus : ' Kunuaet's stone, 
 
 I
 
 /;/ Scandinavia. 121 
 
 son of Ruhalt Thyle (the Speaker) on the Sal- 
 hows.' 
 
 Next we come to a stone from Glenstrup in 
 North Jutland, supposed to belong to the ninth 
 or tenth century. This stone was formerly in 
 the south side of the parish church. It is said to 
 have been found on the top of a tumulus hard 
 by, not far from a spring called Thoro's Well. 
 Thoro was an early chieftain who had sacrificed 
 his son to the gods, and thereupon this healing 
 water had burst forth. After the introduction 
 of Christianity, the well, still retaining its cura- 
 tive powers, was dedicated to the Three Maries, 
 as was also the church. The block is of dark 
 granite, and measures about five feet by three. 
 The runes, though very much worn, inform us 
 that ' Thurir raised this for Kunar his father' 
 -—but history gives no account of either father 
 or son. 
 
 The next memorial is of the dark ieneous 
 stone called Dolerite. It was found in 1833,
 
 122 Wayside Notes 
 
 in digging up the foundations of an old house 
 at Kirkebo. formerly the see of the bishops of 
 Fceroe. The inscription seems to read : * Uik 
 set me up for Uniru.' The runes read from 
 right to left. 
 
 Then we meet with another stone from Sten- 
 derup in Jutland. It is only a fragment, but the 
 whole inscription is fortunately preserved. The 
 legend is: ' May Jothin take Jothin!' Jothin 
 is apparently the name of the Scandinavian god 
 Woden, after whom the person commemorated 
 was named. Perhaps the true reading of the 
 runes is : ' O Woden, receive thy servant 
 Woden ! ' Scandinavia has two stones bearing 
 the name of the god Thor ; but this is the only 
 one bearing that of Woden. 
 
 The next stone came, it is supposed, from 
 Little Tarnby, in the parish of Ilarlov, hundred 
 of I'^axo, Pra^stoshire. It first attracted public 
 attention so long ago as 1566, when Poul Vobis, 
 governor (jf Tryggera^lde Castle had it removed
 
 ill Scandmavia. 1 23 
 
 to the castle yard. It is perforated with five 
 holes, supposed by Mr. Stephens to have been 
 made for the introduction of the ropes by which 
 the oxen dragged it along. At a later date, 
 about 1656, Christian Skeel, governor of the 
 same castle, removed it to his seat at Vallo. In 
 18 10 it was sent to Trinity Churchyard, Copen- 
 hagen, where it remained until it was removed 
 to the Museum in 1867. It is hard 'grey- 
 stone,' and about nine feet high, four broad, and 
 one in thickness. Some of the runes are so 
 much defaced, that it is difficult for the ablest 
 runic scholar to decypher them. The inscription, 
 however, is found to imply that ' Raknhilt, 
 sister of Ulf, placed this stone, and Gared made 
 the grave-mound. . . . Her husband was an 
 eloquent (or illustrious) man, the son of Nairbi. 
 . . . Few are now better born than he. — Let 
 him be an outlaw who casts down this stone, 
 or who drags it hence for other use, or for the 
 grave of another man ! ' — reminding us some-
 
 1 24 IVayside Notes 
 
 what of Shakspeare's epitaph in Stratford 
 church : — 
 
 ' Curst be the man \vho moves these stones,' etc. 
 
 One of the smallest stones in the Hall, and 
 one of those nearest approaching a squared form, 
 came from Asferg in North Jutland, and bears 
 an inscription to this effect: ' Thurkir, the son 
 of Tuki, raised this stone for INIuli his brother, 
 a very good Thane (soldier, hero, chief).' The 
 date of this inscription is probably of the tenth 
 century. 
 
 The next stone, supposed to be of about the 
 same date, was brought from Bregningo in Lol- 
 land. The inscription is : ' These grave-marks 
 {i.e. the stone and the barrow) were made in 
 memory of Tuki, by Asa, his mother, and by 
 his brothers, the sons of Tuki-Haklang.' 
 After tliat, we see a stone of light granite. It 
 is of the same style and period, and was dis- 
 covered in 1S14, at Iv^a in Nortli Jutland. 
 The legend runs thus : ' Alfkil and (?) his sons
 
 in Scandinavia. 125 
 
 raised this stone for their friend (or kinsman) 
 who was Landward (landwarden, governor, or 
 bailiff) to Kitil the Norwegian.' Then we have 
 a very small block, but a foot in thickness, from 
 Kirkeby in Falster. It was formerly built into 
 the wall of the church, from whence it was 
 removed in 181 1, by the Danish Antiquarian 
 Commission, to the Round Tower. On it is a 
 most rude representation of a ship or boat, and 
 the inscription is to the effect that — ' Osur set 
 this stone for Oskitil, his brother, who was slain 
 in Kuruli-Land (Carelia).' Thus this Danish 
 mound was a cenotaph, as the Danish hero had 
 fallen in Finland. Professor Stephens remarks 
 that Wikin (or naval adventure) to Finland, is 
 mentioned on several Siuedish stones. 
 
 I have never visited Finland, but I have had 
 the pleasure of making the acquaintance of a 
 good many Finlanders. During the Crimean 
 war, when Bomarsund was bombarded by our 
 troops, and many of the Fins were captured,
 
 1 26 Wayside Notes 
 
 they we're sent to the then disused old prison at 
 Lewes, in whicli town I resided. The officers 
 were of course on parole, and I used to open my 
 house to them for soirees, etc. I am glad to say 
 that my humble example was followed, but on 
 a better scale, by some of my noble and gentle 
 neighbours, and everybody was pleased with 
 their polished manners and intelligent conversa- 
 tion. They nearly all spoke English fluently. 
 
 The great stone in the Museum is one from 
 Torsted in Lolland. It is 7 feet high, and 6 
 feet 7 inches wide at its broadest point. That 
 it was never squared is proved by the design, 
 which is accommodated to its rude form when 
 originally employed. The epitaph seems to read 
 as follows: 'yEsrathand Hiltulf raised this stone 
 for Frod, their wise (prudent or illustrious) kins- 
 man ; but he was the foeman (terror or scourge) 
 of men. He fell in Sweden, and was then 
 leader in Frikir's lleet (or forces) the hero of 
 tlie war e.xpedition.'
 
 in Scandinavia. 127 
 
 Next we have a fragment of a stone found in 
 a highway pavement at Barse in Zealand. It 
 contains only four runes, and is apparently of the 
 eleventh century. There is also a small stone 
 of about the same date from Frodebo, carved on 
 the upper half with a double-lined ' cross pat- 
 tee.' There is no inscription. Another stone, 
 or rather a portion of one, was found built into 
 the wall of the choir of Sandby church in 
 Zealand. It has runes on both sides ; but as 
 the stone is only a fragment, no satisfactory 
 reading of it has been achieved. 
 
 The sepulchral effigy of a northern bishop is 
 among the most interesting relics in the whole of 
 this wonderful Museum. It dates about the 
 year 1135, and is really the earliest Christian 
 memorial — properly so called — in the collection. 
 The first engraving of it is in the voluminous 
 work of Olaus Wormius, the eminent Danish 
 antiquary, but the last and best is that in Pro- 
 fessor Stephens's monograph. It was formerly
 
 1 28 J Fay side Notes 
 
 in the chapel of Giesenhohii Castle in North 
 Jutland. It is of dark granite, and measures 
 about 5 feet 2 inches long, iS.l inches wide at 
 top, and 16 at bottom, thus corresponding with 
 the monumental stones of nearly every part of 
 western and southern Europe, In low relief 
 it bears the figure of a bishop, standing, and 
 about to bless — his episcopal staff firmly grasped 
 in his left hand. Below is a lamb, carrying on 
 its left foot the holy rood, so frequently seen on 
 our own ancient monuments and in painted glass 
 — ' Agims Dei qui tollis pcccata Mundt.' The 
 inscription on the sides and at the head of the 
 tomb is in runes, and is thus rendered by Pro- 
 fessor Stephens: 'Thuath raised this tomb over 
 Thuro yEbeecson Lange.' The right side may 
 be read : ' Grant, we pray thee, O Mary, mercy : 
 and may St, Nicholas guard liim.' Tlie short 
 vAsiQ. of the stone at the licatl of the monument 
 bears what is probably tlie name of the sculptor, 
 ' Hordcrus.' The liisliojj commemorated by
 
 m Scmidinavia. 129 
 
 this memorial was probably the bishop of Ribe, 
 who fell in the battle of Fodvig in 1 134 ; and 
 his body appears to have been privately buried 
 at Giesingholm. 
 
 There is a broken piece of red sandstone from 
 Brattahlid in Greenland, the runes on which are 
 much worn, and even the learned Professor 
 cannot confidently decipher them. — The next 
 object is a much more perfect and interesting 
 one. It was formerly in the church wall of 
 Brynderslev in North Jutland, the dedication 
 of which it commemorates : — 
 
 ' This is named Christ's Church for the 
 Salvation of Men.' 
 
 The name of the founder or architect is also 
 given : — ' Suin, son of Karmunt.' 
 
 Runic letters were not always employed on 
 
 stone only, but they are occasionally found on 
 
 wood. Thus we have a specimen from 
 
 Valthiofstad in Iceland, of the date of about 
 
 1 100 or 1200. It is a beautiful door of pine- 
 
 I
 
 130 ^ Wayside lYotes 
 
 wood, perhaps drift timber. It is 6 feet 7! 
 inches in Danish measure, and above 3 feet broad 
 — ' one of the finest specimens of old wood- 
 carving in Europe.' It was formerly at the 
 principal entrance of the parish church. This 
 carving is supposed to represent King Diderik 
 (or Theoderik) fighting with the winged 
 Dragon, to rescue the perishing Lion ; but the 
 inscription has never been read. * The upper 
 roundel in the lower compartment exhibits the 
 victory of the champion over the dragon,' and 
 there is a representation of Diderik on horse- 
 back followed by the grateful lion. On the 
 outside of the cluircli, on a small slab, rests the 
 same, or some other lion, witli a small cross. 
 The runic inscription on it is conjectured by 
 the Professor to have been originally this : — 
 * Here see that mighty king sculptured, who slew 
 the dragon.' One of the old Northern Sagas 
 has iIk; legend of this n niarkable conflict, which 
 is doubtless of Oricnlal ori-jiii. Il lias been
 
 in Scandinavia. 131 
 
 remarked that the style and costume very much 
 remind us of those of the Bayeux Tapestry. 
 
 The next articles in the Catalogue are two 
 Icelandic chairs, supposed to date from about 
 1200 to 1300. They are rich and elegant 
 articles in cornel-wood, carved with a knife. 
 The seats form chests, and one of them has a 
 lock and key ; and they are both decorated 
 with dragon and arabesque work, medallions, 
 and foliaofe. The runes on the inscribed one 
 convey no very intelligible meaning, but the 
 Professor guesses that they signify that ' The 
 kozise-fru (mistress) possesses this chair ;' after- 
 wards : ' But Benedict Narfson ofave me to 
 her' — whatever that may mean. On the front 
 of the seat are the signs of the Zodiac, with 
 inscriptions carved partly in runes, and partly 
 in Latin-Gothic letters, signifying Sol in Tauro, 
 Sol in Gemini, Sol in Cancro, and so on. The 
 mixture of runes with Roman letters shows a 
 curious phase in the history of Northern civili-
 
 132 IVayside Notes 
 
 sation, and illustrates in letters what has been 
 done in English in n'ords. Our English tongue 
 is probably the most ' composite ' one in the 
 world. There is scarcely a civilized nation 
 that has not added to our vocabulary. 
 
 There are several other objects well worthy 
 of attention from Iceland, etc., but I think the 
 non-archaeological reader will by this time have 
 had a qiiantiun sufficit of these runic matters. 
 I will therefore conclude this portion of my 
 sketches by a translation of an epitaph from 
 Utskalar in South-west Iceland : — 
 
 ' Here slumbers Bretiiui, Orme's daughter : say a Pater- 
 noster for her soul. 
 Light the loosened Soul that glideth 
 Far away from this poor earth !' 
 
 I do nut pretend lo Riuiic scholarship, and 
 
 therefore I must acknowledge my ()l)ligations to 
 
 Professor Stephens for the foregoing remarks, 
 
 the substance of which is to be fotnul in his 
 
 accoimt of the Runic Hall of the Museum, a 
 
 monograph which I can conscientiously recom-
 
 in Scandinavia, 133 
 
 mend to every English antiquary, not only for 
 its literary merits, but for its beautiful illus- 
 trations, most of which are from drawings 
 executed by the learned Professor himself 
 
 We shall return to Copenhagen again ; but 
 in order to diversify these pages a little we will 
 take a peep at higher latitudes. And first, of 
 the Norwegian superstitions, once doubtless 
 common to the whole of Scandinavia, but now 
 principally limited to the inhabitants of the 
 most northern portions of Norway, though not 
 extinct perhaps In any part of Scandinavia. 
 
 I verily believe that Scandinavia is the true 
 ' dream-land.' I never had so remarkable a 
 * vision of the night ' as I had there. First I 
 saw my father, who had been dead some years ; 
 then two of my brothers ; then three of my 
 sons ; next the King of Denmark, who Invited 
 me to one of his palaces, and offered me
 
 134 I Fay side Notes 
 
 knighthood (! !), which with many thanks I 
 respectfully declined. After that I saw, with 
 the greatest distinctness and apparent reality, 
 One Whose holy name I am almost afraid to 
 mention in this connexion. It was He who 
 died for our sins on Mount Calvary. His gait 
 and figure much resembled those represented 
 by Gustave Dore. I knelt, and kissed the hem 
 of his garment ; but I can say no more, except 
 that my dream was the most delightful one 
 I ever experienced, or that any man could 
 enjoy. 
 
 Perhaps it is owing to this mental pheno- 
 menon that much of the superstition of the 
 northern parts of Scandinavia arises, especially 
 in tlie extreme north of Norway. Mrs. Ellis ' 
 
 * Great was our grief to learn, not many days after our 
 return to England, that Mrs. Ellis, who was in excellent health 
 when we left Denmark, had died after a short illness, from a 
 severe attack of pleurisy. Truly we may say, 'In the midst 
 of life we are in death,' and also that ' whom God loveth best 
 He takelh soonest.'
 
 in Scandinavia. 135 
 
 kindly gave my wife a manuscript of her own 
 translation from .the Norwegian into English. 
 It was written by Jonas Lie, and some extracts 
 from it I take the liberty to insert. 
 
 It is entitled, Second Sight, or Pictures of 
 the North. My first extract will give some 
 idea of the stormy weather in the land of the 
 Norsemen. 
 
 ' I am acquainted with several people who, 
 like myself, have a strong wish to wander out 
 when the weather is stormy. They are gener- 
 ally such as have passed their youth in the 
 country, and who have exchanged that freedom 
 for a sedentary life in towns, and consequently 
 feel almost suffocated by the narrow confine- 
 ment of a room. Poets are also said to have 
 the same inclination. . . . The roofs of the 
 buildings shake, showering down tiles on the 
 passers-by, turning streets into canals, and 
 making corners of thoroughfares into most 
 dangerous halting-places. ... It sometimes
 
 136 Wayside Notes 
 
 occurs that a steady middle-aged official or 
 man of business, who one would suppose would 
 prefer sitting cosily b)' the fireside, resting 
 after his day's work, suddenly informs his wife 
 that unfortunately he is obliged to go out on 
 business. Of course it zV business ! It would 
 never do for a steady man, who may perhaps 
 be chief magistrate or churchwarden, to acknow- 
 ledge, even to himself, that he is so childish as 
 to wish to go out in a storm, and that his only 
 business is to walk on the pier, and see the 
 foaming waves dash over the breakwater, and 
 the ships swinging wildly about at their 
 anchorage ! Somethinir, he makes himself be- 
 lieve, he has to do there, if only in a general way 
 to sec that the town, for whose prosperity he is 
 in some way responsible, does not blow down. 
 The fact is, there is a revolution in the streets 
 — not political : defend him from being in any 
 way mixed up with that, — but a revolution of 
 the kind that has its attractions for him, because
 
 in Scandinavia. 137 
 
 it awakens all his old feelings, and he manages 
 to be there, not caring for the fact that this one, 
 in its way, upsets all police arrangements, — 
 breaks windows, extinguishes lamps, tears tiles 
 from house-roofs, destroys bridges, knocks 
 down out-houses, frightens policemen and 
 watchmen home to their discomfort. Not a 
 soul will take the trouble to go down and fasten 
 the door ; the porter is out, and till he returns 
 nothing will be done.' 
 
 Another relation of a Norwegian storm is 
 thus given in Mrs. Ellis's manuscript : — ' It was 
 in the afternoon, the day after Epiphany, the 
 same day that the clergyman's family were to 
 return home, that the dreadful storm began, 
 which raged two days, and is still spoken of 
 by many as the most fearful hurricane that 
 had, in the memory of man, visited Lofoten. 
 Happily the fishing season had not yet com- 
 menced. The storm, sleet, and immensely 
 heavy seas came from the south-west, right
 
 138 Wayside Notes 
 
 upon the West-bay, otherwise there would pro- 
 bably have been as many wrecks as during the 
 well-known storm in 1S49, when many hundreds 
 of boats were lost in one day. Now there were 
 only a few boats, which were out fishing, lost ; 
 and some sloops and larger ships stranded. The 
 storm increased towards night, the buildings 
 shook with every blast, and all of us remained 
 up, to keep watch through the night. Every 
 window, door, and hole was carefully closed. 
 The tiles rattled so that we were afraid that 
 parts of the roof would be blown off; and from 
 the chimney-tops there came a dismal, deep 
 rumbling sound, which one might almost fancy 
 to be cries of distress. We were all assembled 
 in one room, and a deep silence prevailed, 
 broken only by a remark about the storm, or 
 by one of the servants leaving the room to look 
 after things. IVIy fatluT was very uneasy about 
 his store and liis sloop, wliich was l^ing in the 
 bay, and which had three anchors out to keep
 
 in Scandinavia. 139 
 
 it steady in the heavy seas, which, in spite of 
 the good situation of the harbour, rolled in 
 upon it. I saw him several times fold his 
 hands, as if in prayer, and then he would walk 
 up and down the room as though he felt 
 comforted, until fear again seized him ; and he 
 sat down pale and anxious as before. 
 
 * The storm still increased. Once we heard 
 a dull crash, which might possibly come from 
 the store. I saw drops of sweat start out on my 
 father's forehead, and yet knowing I was utterly 
 unable to brinof him the slightest comfort. He 
 took a light into the office, and returned with 
 a large old Prayer-book, which he opened at 
 " prayers and psalms " to be used in times of 
 distress at sea. We all, without a word, 
 arranged ourselves for prayer. My father sat 
 at the table holding the book in his large rough 
 hands, between the two candles. First he read 
 the prayers, and then sang all the verses 
 of the psalm, while those who knew the tune
 
 140 J Fay side Azotes 
 
 gradually joined in with him. It was in 
 every respect as prayers are held on board 
 ship, when there is danger ; and my father had 
 certainly taken his idea from some such scene 
 in his youth. During the service it seemed to 
 us all as if there was a lull in the storm, and 
 that it had increased ao^ain when we had 
 finished. It was said that the eldest Martinez 
 (a shipwrecked Spanish captain) was on his 
 knees in his room, and constantly crossing 
 himself before his crucifix. He had not much 
 reason for anxiety, as his brig was anchored 
 under the land in a small creek that was 
 sheltered from the storm and heavy seas, but 
 he repented not having gone on board to his 
 son and his crew. . . . 
 
 'Towards morning there came somewhat of 
 a lull, and, tired as we were, went to bed, with 
 the exception of one or two, who were to keep 
 watch. When daylight came, we saw what 
 destruction the storm had wrought ; many
 
 in Scandinavia. 141 
 
 hundreds of tiles from the roof strewed the 
 ground, the bindings of the wall exposed to the 
 wind were torn loose, and the farther end of 
 the pier lay under water, its supporters having 
 been displaced by the waves. 
 
 * The warehouse had also suffered injury. 
 Our sloop was in no little danger ; two of its 
 chain cables had already sprung, and its safety 
 now depended on the last and longest, which 
 was fastened to the ship's ring on the rock at 
 the entrance of the bay. The only living thing 
 on board was the dog, a large white poodle, 
 which stood barking, with its fore legs on the 
 taffrail, as we could see, though the wind 
 rendered it impossible for us to hear. The sea 
 was breaking over the fore part of the sloop ; 
 the danger was great ; the long cable was 
 strained so much that the middle of it hardly 
 touched the water. 
 
 ' The wind raged so fiercely that the seamen 
 were obliged to creep along bent down, lest
 
 142 J Fay side A^ofcs 
 
 they should be blown overboard. Help was 
 therefore out of the question. I crept up to 
 the hillock behind the house, and stood under 
 the shelter of a rock, whence I could over- 
 look the bay, and see outside. The appear- 
 ance of West-bay was like a mass of silver-^rey 
 smoke, which had been blown in from the 
 sea. Under the land, green foam-topped 
 waves, mountains high, rushed forward with 
 roars like thunder, to be sucked back again, 
 leaving the sands bare and dry far out. At 
 one place, by a rock which extended far into 
 the ocean, the waves, every time they washed 
 against it, threw an immense jet of foam straight 
 upwards, which was caught b)- the wind and 
 driven like smoke in and over the land. At 
 another place the waves absolutely stormed a 
 sloping bank, now covering it with foam, and 
 then leaving it (juite dry ; and there was one 
 unfortunate sea-gull which had probably been 
 disturbed, fighting and struggling in the wind.
 
 in Scandinavia. 143 
 
 until its poor wings seemed almost turned 
 inside out. I now bent my attention to the 
 sloop in the bay. To my astonishment I saw 
 a man on board, and recognised our strong 
 servant Jens, who with another of our men 
 adventured out to it in a six-oared boat. 
 Immediately afterwards he went back alone to 
 the boat, with a rope tied round him, and began 
 the dangerous work of hauling it against the 
 waves along the tightened rope out to the rock. 
 I expected every moment that the boat would 
 fill, and thought it took water several times. 
 Whilst the boat went slowly on, my father and 
 our people anxiously watched it from the beach. 
 When Jens had climbed the rock, which the 
 waves washed every moment, so that he stood 
 up to his knees in water, he fastened the 
 boat, and then began hauling the rope, and 
 thus drew in another chain cable, which the 
 man on the sloop had gradually let out. He 
 had got the end of the cable in the ring, and
 
 144 Wayside Notes 
 
 was in the act of fastening it, when we saw 
 three fearful waves coming, which would cer- 
 tainly dash over the rock. 
 
 ' There was extreme danger now, both for the 
 life of Jens and for the safety of the sloop, 
 which would hardly hold on against the pres- 
 sure with one cable. I saw " French Martine," 
 who was betrothed to Jens, wring her hands 
 over her head, and rush to the beach, as if she 
 intended to throw herself into the water after 
 him ; and I do not think that any of us who 
 were lookinij on dared to draw breath. It 
 appeared as if Jens had also seen the danger : 
 he hurried down to the boat, where he still 
 might save himself, but it was only to take up 
 tlu' rope, which he steadily wound several times 
 around his bod)-, and then passed it through 
 the rin"" as if he no lon<^er reckoned on his own 
 strength. He had hard!)- fiuislied when the 
 Hrst wave, whicli struck liim on the back, burst 
 over liim and the rock. The interval between
 
 in Scandinavia. 145 
 
 the first wave and the second he used in haul- 
 ing the cable more in. Again came a wave, 
 and again Jens stood safe ; and now he managed 
 the last hitch on the rope, which saved the 
 sloop. He had tried how hard a wave could 
 press ; he had thrown the rope around him over 
 his broad shoulders ; turned his pale face 
 towards our house, as if he thought he was 
 saying good-bye to it, and bent his head to 
 receive the last, and, as usual, the heaviest 
 wave of the three. When the foam had cleared 
 away there was no Jens on the rock. In my 
 anxiety I had dashed down to the others. 
 When I arrived, they had saved not only the 
 boat, which had broken away from the rock, 
 but also the apparently lifeless Jens, whom they 
 were carrying up to the house. The wave had 
 taken him with it, for the rope had glided over 
 his neck and deprived him of a part of his 
 garments and some of his skin. He lay un- 
 conscious, w^ith one arm bloody and torn by the
 
 146 Wayside iXofcs 
 
 rope hanging by his side. At one place it was 
 lacerated to the bone. 
 
 ' I\Iy father, pale from anxiety, helped to carry 
 hini up to the house and lay him on the bed. 
 When the poor fellow became conscious, he 
 expectorated a quantity of blood, and had 
 difficulty in speaking ; but my father, after 
 examining his chest, joyfully declared that his 
 life was in no danger. Jens became, for this 
 act of saving the sloop, a man of wide-spread 
 renown. From that day he was my father's 
 trusted man, and the following summer he mar- 
 ried French Martine.' 
 
 IVIany similar talcs arc told by old seafaring 
 Northmen, but want of space will not permit 
 me to recite them ; I must not omit to mention, 
 however, that in the well-remembered storm of 
 1849 many Jinncircds of boats were lost in one 
 day. 1 tliL-rt^forc jxisson to a subject previously 
 alluded to (on page 133), namcl)-, the supersti- 
 tions and legends of the northern Norwegians.
 
 /;/ Scandinavia. 147 
 
 Jonas Lie's hero mentions a curious and very 
 superstitious old woman who had the care of 
 him after his mother's death. She was a small 
 masculine-looking person, marked with small- 
 pox, and had little brown eyes and grey hair ; 
 and to add to these charms she generally carried 
 in her mouth a black clay pipe. Her name was 
 Anne Kvcen. She was as sure that the brownie 
 and the merman lived in the store and the boat- 
 house of the elder M. Hoist as she was that he 
 lived in his own residence ; and that elves and 
 wizards held their invisible sports on the moun- 
 tain tops ! When a boat came in, she turned 
 to the sea, spat, and mumbled words as a charm 
 against the mermen. She saw every person's 
 double, and therefore no door could be shut too 
 quickly when any one came in or went out ; and 
 'she had,' as David Hoist informs us, 'always 
 some mysterious warning of my father's return 
 from a voyage. ... In her charms the word 
 yumala was often used : it is the name of the
 
 148 // 77J 'side A \^fes 
 
 old god of the Bjarmers, whose worship in the 
 far north is not so entirely abolished as might 
 be supposed.' Even to this day there are two 
 altars, high up in the mountains in Finmark, 
 which are dedicated to his ciiltus. Hence it ap- 
 pears that in the nineteenth century, even in civil- 
 ized Europe, among the more ignorant, Chris- 
 tianity is made to shake hands with paganism. 
 
 David Hoist describes his father's servants' 
 hall in a somewhat graphic manner. He says 
 that ' the 7/^?/;//^^ feeling that pervaded the house 
 afforded much matter for conversation in the 
 servants' hall, when the men, maid-servants, and 
 journeymen-travellers, who were to have a 
 night's lodging there, sat round the fire relating 
 anecdotes of all sorts of wrecks and apparitions. 
 In one corner sat our good strong Jens, with 
 his carpenter's tools and work al)out him. He 
 always attended to his work, listening to what 
 others said. In front of \\\c. fire sat "furrier 
 Nils," oiling his skins. I Ic liad got the title of
 
 in Scandinavia. 149 
 
 "furrier" because he sewed the skins together. 
 He was a small man with an uncombed head of 
 yellow hair hanging down over his forehead, a 
 face as round as the full moon, a nose like a 
 small button, and, when he laughed, a thin-lipped 
 wide mouth, and a large jaw that had much the 
 expression of a skeleton's grin. His small milky 
 eyes used to wink mysteriously, giving you the 
 idea that he was clever. He was in reality the 
 one who knew the greatest number of anec- 
 dotes, and had at the same time the knack of 
 getting travellers to relate all that they knew 
 of the invisible as well as the visible world. 
 A third went by the name of Anders Tipler, 
 because he sometimes got drunk.' This per- 
 son was however, in his way, very clever and 
 faithful, especially during a sea-storm. These 
 honest men and maids amused themselves with 
 ghost stories. One of them is said to have 
 happened in the days of Erlandson's predeces- 
 sors. It was as follows : —
 
 150 Wayside Notes 
 
 ' At that time an old store stood at a short 
 distance from the parsonage. A party were 
 sitting, talking and drinking, one Christmas Eve 
 in the office, and about eleven o'clock, the beer- 
 jug being empty, Rasmus the servant, a strong 
 courageous man, was sent to the store, where 
 the beer was kept, with orders to fill a large 
 silver-topped jug. Arrived there, he placed his 
 lantern on the barrel, and began to draw the 
 beer. When the jug was full, and he was in 
 the act of putting it to his mouth, he saw a 
 monstrous figure in the dark background, where 
 there were rows of beer-barrels, a frightfully 
 large broad shape, from which issued an ice-cold 
 draught, as if a door were open. It winked at 
 him with with large dim eyes like two horn 
 lanterns, and said " Christmas beer, thief!" But 
 Rasmus (lid not lose his presence of mind ; he 
 flung the licav)- jug riglu at the merman's eyes, 
 and ran away with all his might. Outside, the 
 moon was shining brightly on the snow; screams
 
 in Scandinavia. 151 
 
 and yells were heard from the beach, so that he 
 knew that there were a great number of mermen 
 pursuing him. When he got to the churchyard 
 wall, they were close upon him, and he, hard 
 pressed, cried out: "Help mc, all ye dead!" 
 The dead are grreat enemies of mermen. Ras- 
 mus heard the dead arise, and the noise and 
 tumult of a battle followed. He in the mean- 
 time was hotly pursued by one particular mer- 
 man, who put out his hand to catch him, but he 
 was just in time to reach the door, and was safe, 
 though he fell upon the floor in a swoon. The 
 day after, Christmas-day, the church-going 
 people saw the churchyard strewn with lids of 
 coffins, broken oars, and planks from wrecks. 
 These were the weapons that had been used in 
 the battle, and it was easy to see that the dead 
 had been the victors. The jug was found to 
 be flattened from striking against the monster's 
 skull, and the lantern had been crushed when 
 Rasmus fled.'
 
 152 Wayside Notes 
 
 The Norsemen possess the faculty of 'second 
 sight' in a wonderful degree, and they have 
 visions sometimes of spirits and sometimes 
 of realities. They have also premonitions of 
 events about to happen. Sometimes they see 
 large funeral processions with such distinctness 
 that they can describe person, place, and look, 
 the coffin, and the streets through which the 
 cortege passes. Sometimes these foreshadow- 
 ings turn out to be remarkably correct, and 
 if one in twenty of them does so, the other nine- 
 teen are overlooked. According to a vulgar 
 old English proverb : — 
 
 ' What is hits is histories ; 
 AVhat is missed is mysteries.' 
 
 To return to Copenhagen. One of the most 
 interesting objects is \\\^ EthnograpJiic Museum. 
 Its object is to illustrate the costumes and habits 
 of the various nations of the world, in all the 
 ages of barbarism. The collection was formed
 
 in Scandiitavia. 153 
 
 some years ago, and more recently it has been 
 classified under the skilful management of Pro- 
 fessor Worsaae. It occupies three stories. On 
 the ground floor five apartments are devoted to 
 prehistoric antiquities, and contain implements 
 of the stone, bronze, and iron ages, from every 
 part of the world. It would be difficult to give 
 a detailed account of the contents of this in- 
 teresting Museum ; therefore I must content 
 myself with observing that they principally re- 
 late to the following regions and countries : — 
 
 Europe, Asia, and South America and the Carribbean 
 
 Islands, Central America, Mexico, and North 
 
 America, Greenland. 
 The Esquimaux of Greenland, those of North America, 
 
 and those of Northern Asia. 
 The North American Indians, and the Indians of Central 
 
 and South America. 
 African Negroes, Hottentots, Bushmen, and Kaffirs. 
 Malays and other inhabitants of the Indian Archipelago. 
 The Papuas, and other natives of the Australian regions. 
 Natives of Siberia. 
 The Chinese, Hindoos, Persians, Arabs, Turks, Japanese, 
 
 etc. 
 
 This is undoubtedly the finest ethnographical
 
 154 J Fay side Notes 
 
 collection in the world, and it would afford 
 materials for the study of many days to the 
 student of ethnology. 
 
 The largest and most prominent building of 
 Copenhagen is the palace called Christiansborg. 
 It stands on an island close to the harbour, but 
 is approachable by bridges. There was a castle 
 on this spot as early as the twelfth century, but 
 the edifice was several times destroyed and re- 
 built. When Copenhagen became the principal 
 residence of royalty. King Christian i. and his 
 son, King Hans, greatly added to its grandeur, 
 size, and strength, and l)ui]t a magnificent ban- 
 queting-hall. In the entrance hall of the royal 
 library are still to be seen in bas-relief effigies of 
 King Hans and his Queen. A larger building 
 was erected in the early part of the eighteenth 
 centur)- ; l)ut it was soon afterwards pulled down 
 ' to make room for one of the handsomest palaces 
 in Europe, Iniilt between 1733 and 1770. This 
 was unfortunately destroyed b) fire in 1 794 ; and
 
 hi Scandinavia. 155 
 
 it was not until 1828 that the present building, 
 which is far inferior to the former one, was 
 sufficiently finished for use. Even now it re- 
 mains unfinished, and it has never been used as 
 a permanent residence. Fetes on a large scale 
 are, however, carried on occasionally in its 
 capacious halls. The facade is very grand, and 
 ornamented with four colossal bronze statues, 
 after designs by Thorvaldsen, representing Her- 
 cules, Minerva, Nemesis, and ^sculapius, to 
 typify strength, wisdom, justice, and truth ; but 
 by an error ^sculapius is made to stand, not as 
 the god of medicine, but as the emblem of truth ! 
 There is also a group designed by Thorvaldsen, 
 representing Jupiter surrounded by the minor 
 deities. The banqueting-hall (called the Rid- 
 dersal)^ is a gorgeous apartment 1 20 feet by 50, 
 
 ^ Ridder, richter, rider, etc., used in the northern languages 
 of Europe, means a mounted soldier, in contradistinction to an 
 infantry man. Our Kmghi-Jider Street in London is conse- 
 quently a tautologous expression.
 
 1 56 Wayside Notes 
 
 and 44 feet high, decorated with white and gold. 
 The frieze, by the sculptor Bissen, represents 
 the procession of Ceres and Bacchus, emblema- 
 tical of bread and wine. In the ante-room of 
 this fine hall is Thorvaldsen's noble frieze, 
 Alexander's entry into Babylon. Some of the 
 rooms contain pictures by Danish, Dutch, 
 French, and Italian masters. Among other 
 halls for public use, are those for the TJiings, or 
 Chambers of Parliament. Close to the palace 
 stands the chapel-royal {Slofskirkoi)^ built in 
 the st)'le of the castle, and arranged, as to the 
 interior, in excellent taste. The only feeling 
 disparaging to the castle or palace of Christians- 
 borg is, that it looks so wonderfully nav. 
 
 One of the most charming places in the city 
 is the ' Tivoli Gardens,' a public pronuMiade, and 
 atlraclivc for its delicious evening concerts. It 
 is approached by a fine avenue of trees, and 
 is altogether the most delightful spot in Copen- 
 
 ' Slol^ the Danish for palace or castle.
 
 in Scandinavia. 157 
 
 hagen. The music hall is built in a kind of 
 oriental style, and highly decorated. The 
 entrance fee being very small, all classes can 
 visit it. Thus, on our several visits, we saw 
 persons from the gentlest to the simplest present, 
 including little children not more than four years 
 old, who ran about the hall with the greatest 
 sang froid. My wife gave a little girl a ' sweet,' 
 which she happened to have in her pocket, and 
 she immediately kissed both my wife and myself, 
 as if she had known us long ago. 
 
 The conductor of the band is M. Dahl, a very 
 able musician and composer. The orchestra 
 contains violins, ' double-basses,' horns, etc., and 
 the whole performance cannot be surpassed in 
 any capital in Europe. When M. Dahl's own 
 compositions were played, he led off with an 
 enthusiasm quite glorious to behold. I sought 
 an introduction to him, and found him to be 
 a most well-informed and gentlemanly man. 
 Murray correctly calls the Tivoli a 'gigantic
 
 1 58 IVayside Notes 
 
 Cremorne, but visited b)- better company ; ' and 
 this is strictly true. 
 
 Copenhagen is rich in royal palaces, number- 
 ing no less than four. Besides Christiansborg, 
 previously mentioned, there are Rosenborg, 
 Amalienborg, and Frederiksborg, all possessing 
 more or less of interest — but of these hereafter. 
 The churches are not numerous, considering the 
 size of the city. The principal one is Vor Frue 
 Kirke, or the Church of Our Lady, a modern 
 and most unchurchlike structure, after the fashion 
 of a Roman basilica. It was built from a design 
 by Hansen, the architect of the Christiansborg 
 Palace, and is in no way remarkable, except for 
 the Thorvaldsen sculptures. Behind the pulpit 
 is a figure of the Saviour, and arranged on each 
 side are the majestic statues of the twelve 
 apostles, each wllh his conventional em1)](Mns — 
 a glorious sight to beliold. Sure])- surli majestic 
 sculpture is not elsewhere to be seen. Then 
 there are noble carvings of St. John the Bap-
 
 in Scandinavia. 159 
 
 tist in the Wilderness, Christ's Entry into 
 Jerusalem, the Procession to Golgotha, the In- 
 stitution of the two Sacraments, and over the 
 alms-boxes, two figures representing Charity 
 and the Guardian Angel. Outside of the church 
 are two bronze statues, one of David by Jerichau, 
 and another of Moses by Bissen. 
 
 This church stands on the site of a much older 
 place of worship, dating from the twelfth century, 
 which contained a great number of costly objects 
 and valuable relics, and was connected with many 
 important events in the history of Denmark ; 
 but alas ! it was destroyed in the great confla- 
 gration of 1728. It was succeeded by a new 
 edifice of imposing size and splendour, which 
 was destroyed in 1807 by our bombardment. 
 Shame to England, say I ! The present church 
 was finished in 1829. When we visited it we 
 observed outside a funeral car with four pillars, 
 and none of the black plumes which so disfigure 
 the 'fashionable' English hearse, looking like
 
 i6o Wayside Notes 
 
 sable devils nodding in a friendly manner, as 
 much as to say, ' We Ve got him at last ! ' The 
 service was conducted in a solemn manner, with 
 musical accompaniments, and the coffin, on being 
 carried out, was covered with wreaths of white 
 flowers, such as in England we cast on the re- 
 mains of the dear departed when they have been 
 deposited in the cold tomb. 
 
 The Church of Our Saviour {K^r Frelsers) 
 possesses a beautiful alabaster font, and a re- 
 markable spire, with a singular winding staircase 
 outside, leading to a ball which it is affirmed 
 will hold a dozen people. This I did not trouble 
 myself to go up to, though it is said that it com- 
 mands an extensive prospect of the city and the 
 circumjacent country. Hclliggeist Kirke (the 
 Church of the Holy Ghost) is interesting for its 
 ancient, simple, and well- proportioned cemetery 
 chapel. Holmen's Kirkt! is interesting as con- 
 taining the mortal remains of some of the leading 
 naval heroes of Scandinavia, such as Tordens-
 
 in Scandinavia. i6i 
 
 kjold, Niel Juul, and odiers. St. John's, in the 
 northern suburb, is a sufficiently handsome edi- 
 fice in the modern Gothic style, but objection- 
 able on account of its being built of red brick, a 
 material which should never, in my opinion, be 
 used in ecclesiastical buildings ; though it may 
 perhaps be pardoned in such a country, where 
 stone is scarce. 
 
 There is another ecclesiastical building called 
 the Marble Church, which was commenced about 
 1 746; but the undertaking, having been found to 
 be too costly, was abandoned. There are also 
 remains, consisting chiefly of an immense square 
 tower of the church of St. Nicholas, which is 
 noteworthy as the first in which the doctrines of 
 the Reformation were enunciated. Altogether, 
 Copenhagen cannot boast much either of the 
 number or the grandeur of its churches. There 
 are a Roman Catholic chapel, a Methodist churcH, 
 a Greek chapel, and a ' Reformed ' church, none 
 of which possess any features of interest.
 
 1 62 Wayside N'otes* 
 
 Bombardments, fires, and other calamities 
 have been most injurious to this fine city, and 
 there are but few remains of ' hoar antiquitie ' 
 left, except in the Museums. 
 
 T\i&/onn)i of Copenhagen is Kongens Nytorv, 
 near the centre of the city. It is a large and 
 handsome square, in which stands the equestrian 
 statue of King Christian v. This figure, with 
 its allegorical accompaniments, possesses little 
 artistic merit ; yet still, with its surroundings of 
 flowers and turf, it produces a good effect. In 
 the square itself are several public or semi-public 
 buildings, including hotels, restaurants, coffee- 
 houses, the Royal Theatre, Count Moltke's gal- 
 lery, and the Academy of Arts. The principal 
 streets run out of this square, especially Broad 
 Street i^Brcdgade), which is considered the finest 
 thoroughfare of the city. It katls to the cx- 
 planade of the citadel, past the Plads or Place 
 of Si. Anne, where there is a sitting statue 
 of (h2hlenschlagcr, the celebrated Danish poet.
 
 ill Scandinavia. 163 
 
 Here we also pass the residence of the British 
 Legation or embassy, the Hotel Phoenix, several 
 great residences of the nobility, the Amalien- 
 borg, the Surgical Academy, the Frederik's 
 Hospital, and several other noteworthy edifices. 
 
 Count Moltke's picture-gallery well deserves 
 a visit. The pictures, chiefly of the Dutch 
 school, are exhibited in the palace of the Baron 
 Reedtz, and are the productions, among others, 
 of Ruysdael, Rembrandt, Hobbima, Ostade, 
 Teniers, Wouvermann, etc. etc. 
 
 Copenhagen of course possesses a University. 
 It was founded in 1478, and it has at present 
 about six hundred students, and the large num- 
 ber of forty Professors. Connected with the 
 establishment is the University Library, one of 
 the finest modern edifices of the city. It is 
 built of stone and iron, elegantly finished, and 
 contains more than 200,000 volumes, and about 
 4000 manuscripts. 
 
 Besides this library is the Grand Royal
 
 164 IVayside Notes 
 
 Library, which is situated close to the Arsenal, 
 a rich collection of the literature of all countries 
 and ages. It contains nearly 56i,0(X) printed 
 volumes, and about 25.000 manuscripts, many 
 of which are of great curiosity and value. The 
 original hall of the library, Avhich is 250 feet 
 long, is supported by numerous columns, and 
 very finely ornamented with white and gold. 
 Since this grand hall was erected, eight other 
 halls have been annexed for the deposit of 
 augmentations. ' The collection of early printed 
 books and block-books is very large and valu- 
 able ; and tlic old Scandinavian and Oriental 
 M.SS. are specially so.' Many of these objects 
 were formerly the property of eminent historical 
 personages. Two striking figures of stone 
 stand in the vestibule. They represent Hans, 
 king of all .Scandinavia, and his queen, 
 Christina; and fornK-rl)- stood at an entrance 
 to tlu; Palace. Their date is 1503. 
 
 Oik; of the finest ornaments of Copenhagen
 
 in Scandinavia. 165 
 
 is the Exchange, built of brick in the renais- 
 sance style, commonly called Christian-the- 
 Fourth's style ; and which, with the exception 
 of the material, strongly resembles what we 
 call Elizabethan, This edifice, however, is of 
 later date, and was not finished much before 
 1640. It has a very singular spire, rather 
 difificult to describe. It is fantastically formed 
 of four twisted dragons, with their heads down- 
 wards, and facing the cardinal points of the 
 compass. 
 
 To return to the royal palaces : Rosenborg 
 Castle is also in the Christian-the- Fourth style, 
 and is situated in the northern part of the city. 
 It is partly surrounded by a public garden of 
 considerable beauty. It was planned by the 
 monarch himself, and is known as the King's 
 Garden (Kotigejis Have). The view of the 
 castle from some parts of these grounds is most 
 picturesque and pleasing. The design for the 
 building is attributed, I know not on what
 
 1 66 IV ay side Notes 
 
 grounds, to Inigo Jones, and it was begun in 
 1604. The garden was originally ornamented 
 with many fountains and statues ; but all that 
 now remains of the foj'nicr beauties of the 
 place are two most noble avenues of chestnut 
 trees, a bronze group, representing a horse 
 attacked by a lion, and two lions standing near 
 the bridge which leads from the 'have' to the 
 castle. Here I may remark that the Lion and 
 the Dragon arc two favourite animals which 
 were much in use, from early times, all over 
 Scandinavia. The lion is a ' familiar beast ' in 
 Eastern climates, though not ' a friend to man ; ' 
 but of the oriijin of the drac^on the naturalist 
 knows nothing, except that it may be the 
 crocodile in a greatly altered form. However 
 this may be, both the animals belong to Oriental 
 regions, and the ancient Scandinavians must 
 have imported llicir ideas of ihem from the 
 East long ages ago. 
 
 The gnnintls contain a School of gardening,
 
 in Scandinavia. 167 
 
 and there are extensive conservatories and hot- 
 houses. Rosenborg is no longer a royal re- 
 sidence, but is entirely devoted to collections 
 of the kings of Denmark, chronologically 
 arranged. It was founded after the death 
 of Christian iv. in 1648. In 1858, Professor 
 Worsaae increased and re-arranged this fine 
 collection, which was begun soon after the year 
 1588, and has been brought down to the present 
 time in illustration of the arts and customs of 
 many ages. Either one salle or more is 
 dedicated to the reis^n of each successive 
 monarch, and decorated in the style of each 
 reign. There is a great quantity of furniture, 
 almost exclusively brought from the different 
 royal residences, portraits of the royal family 
 and of men distinguished in the arts of war and 
 peace, with arms, vestments, jewelry, and the 
 like, pertaining to each reign. As a collection 
 of its kind, both for its variety and richness, 
 and for its skilful arrangement by Professor
 
 1 68 Wayside Notes 
 
 Worsaae, it is unsurpassed anj^vhere. In the 
 beautifully decorated apartment called ' King 
 Christian's Audience Hall,' are many curious 
 objects, one of which attracts the attention of 
 every visitor, namely, the ' Oldenborg Horn,' 
 concerning which the following veritable legend 
 is preserved : — 
 
 Once upon a time, say in the year of grace 
 989, Otto I. of Oldenborg was hunting in a 
 lonely part of one of his forests, when he 
 became athirst. He was hot and tired, but 
 there was no water at hand, and he did not 
 know what to do. B)' and by a friendly fairy 
 came forward with this horn, and offered him 
 drink. Otto put his lips to it, but finding it 
 less pleasant to the taste than otto of roses is to 
 the smell, he declined the draught. The fairy 
 expostulated, and tt)ld him that, if he would 
 only drink it off, great blessings would attend 
 him and his family, but, if he refused, many 
 misfortunes would befall liim. The huntsman.
 
 in Scandinavia. 169 
 
 however, declining the draught, threw it away, 
 to the great displeasure of the kind-hearted 
 fairy, who demanded the horn back again. 
 But Otto thought it too valuable to be parted 
 with, and so kept it, and handed it down to his 
 descendants. 
 
 Now what a pity it is that the prying ' old 
 fogies,' called antiquaries, will put such a matter- 
 of-fact face upon things as they do. Why, they 
 actually reject the legend in toto, and declare 
 that the horn was made by some German 
 artist for King Christian i., only comparatively 
 the other day — that is, in 1479 ! They say that 
 when the monarch visited Colo^rne for the 
 purpose of making a treaty between the 
 Emperor Frederik iii. and Charles the Bold, 
 Duke of Burgundy, he intended to dedicate the 
 horn to their sacred majesties the Three Holy 
 Kings of Cologne, and to deposit it in their 
 well-known chapel there ; but, as his mission 
 was fruitless, he retained it and brought it back
 
 1 70 JJ^ayside Notes 
 
 to Denmark. For two centuries it was pre- 
 served at the palace of Oldenborg, and after- 
 wards it was brought to Copenhagen. The 
 material is silver, richly enamelled, gilt, and 
 decorated with tlie arms of Denmark, Germany, 
 and Burgundy, with numerous devices of 
 different kinds allusive to the before-mentioned 
 transaction. 
 
 Another evidence, I think, of the Oriental 
 origin of the Danes, is that their principal order 
 of knighthood is that of the Elephant, which 
 ranks with our own of the Garter. In the 
 Rosenborof we observe the insio^nia of both 
 these orders, for many of the magnates of 
 Scandinavia have at different times been K.G.'s 
 of iMiijiand. 'J'lun we see the two ofold vessels 
 called the Eyder Cup and the Homage Cup, 
 commemorative of \\\v. nninion of thc^ whole of 
 Schleswitr with Denmark, after its having;' been 
 for a long time separated from it. The Eyder 
 was never again to be disrupted fioni Denmark.
 
 in Scandinavia. 171 
 
 This junction was effected in 1720; but the 
 wretched affair of 1864 again sundered the 
 duchy from the kingdom. 
 
 In this royal museum are preserved suits of 
 regal costumes, including the coronation robes 
 of Christian iv. in 1597, a remarkable feature. 
 
 Such another collection as that of Rosenborg 
 could probably not be found in Europe ; and 
 the only others that can at all vie with it are 
 those of the Hotel de Clugni at Paris, and the 
 celebrated ' Green Vaults ' at Dresden. To 
 describe all the remarkable objects here would 
 require a large volume ; and therefore I must 
 confine myself to a slight account of the main 
 features of interest. One of these is the bed- 
 chamber of Christian iv., in which he died in 
 1648. It still retains its original handsome 
 decorations, and contains many relics of that 
 celebrated sovereign. The adjoining apart- 
 ment was the king's study, and it still retains 
 his chair and writing-table, with a variety of
 
 1/2 J Fay side Notes 
 
 elegant articles which belonged either to him 
 or to Anna-Kathrinc, his queen, including the 
 king's ' knighting-sword,' with a gorgeously 
 enamelled grolden hilt, a bridle and saddle 
 covered with hundreds of diamonds and pearls, 
 a splendid drinking-horn of silver, and a beau- 
 tiful fountain in ebony and silver, six feet high, 
 to contain perfumed water. Many of these 
 articles are of Danish manufacture, and prove 
 the greatly advanced state of art in the North 
 more than two centuries ago. 
 
 The next rooms contain objects of Frederik in. 
 (son of Christian iv.), in wliat is called the 
 ' Rococo' style. Here we behold the great 
 crystal cup, witli figures in bas-relief, most 
 artistically wrought, and ten feet high, as :ilso 
 a silver jewel-box presented by our Queen 
 Anne to Queen Sophia of Denmark, bespangled 
 with diamonds, glorious to behold. A curious 
 story is told of tliis oljjcct. Wlicn tlie de- 
 plorable fire at tlie Christiansborg took place in
 
 m Scandinavia. 173 
 
 1794, it stood in the Queen's toilet-room, and 
 during the alarm was appropriated by a thief. 
 The villain was however tracked by a loyal 
 citizen, who bought it of him for a comparative 
 trifle, and had it placed with the other royal 
 relics in the Rosenborg. The Marble Hall 
 next invites our attention. It is devoted to the 
 reign of King Christian the Fifth, a man of 
 splendid tastes, and to a great extent an imitator 
 of his contemporary, Louis Quatorze. He used 
 this salle himself, and had it decorated in the 
 richest manner. There are numerous relics of 
 his reign, including a very elegant and curiously 
 formed cup, called the Wismar, for what 
 reason I do not know ; but it is said to be one 
 of the finest crystal works in Europe. On the 
 first floor is a chamber called the * Rose,' illustra- 
 tive of the reigns of Christian v. and Frederik iv. 
 It is hung with noble Italian tapestry, which is 
 supposed to have been brought by the latter 
 sovereign, with numerous other treasures, from
 
 1 74 // 'ay side Notes 
 
 Italy in 1709. It was hungup at one or the 
 other of the royal dorgs, and at length reached 
 Rosenborg, where little was known or cared 
 about it, until the indefatigable Worsaae called 
 attention to its excellence, and had it placed in 
 its present position. It is a valuable piece of 
 art, and supposed to be of Florentine workman- 
 ship. The portraits and some of the furniture 
 were saved from the disastrous fire at Fre- 
 deriksborg in 1859. Art was under Frederik iv. 
 in its highest position. He was rich, and un- 
 encumbered with national debt ; and as Den- 
 mark had had its flint age, its bronze age, and 
 its iron age, so this may be fairly styled the 
 golden age of the country. 
 
 We Englishmen, who have been in our 
 ignorance accustomed to think Denmark below 
 the average of European civilisation, are very 
 wide of the mark, probably from wliat we read 
 in our schoolboy days of llie barbarous Vikings 
 and their doings in England, Scotland, and
 
 in Scandinavia. 175 
 
 Ireland, in the tenth and eleventh centuries. 
 But since that time the Scandinavians have, 
 for the most part, advanced pari passic with all 
 other civilized nations. Nay, more : I believe 
 that in the seventeenth century they surpassed 
 most of them, and certainly at that period the 
 monarchs and grandees patronized both the 
 fine arts and manufactures in a greater degree 
 than did those of any other country. And 
 now, in later times, the Northern nations have 
 not fallen off in this respect. Look at their 
 great system of railways, most admirably 
 conducted, and their street tramways in all the 
 larger towns. We praise our London tramways, 
 but they are nothing as compared with those 
 of Copenhagen. Let me add, that this most 
 useful invention is attributable to our Northern 
 friends ; and even our cars are for the most 
 part imported into England from those regions. 
 We see, inscribed on the inside of numbers of 
 them, the words ' Copenhagen ' and ' Denmark.'
 
 1 76 JVayside Notes 
 
 But to realize the actual state of civilisation in 
 Scandinavia, Englishmen must go thither, and 
 look for themselves. 
 
 Dean Swift, in his queer book, TJic Tale of 
 a Tub, writes a ' digression in praise of 
 digressions.' It is perhaps too much a fault 
 of mine to dicrress ; but when in a wTitiuij 
 humour I cannot help myself. Now let us 
 return to the Rosenborg. — One of the objects 
 which attracts the notice of every visitor is the 
 highly artistic font used for the baptisms of 
 members of the royal famil}-. When this 
 sacrament is performed, a golden vessel is 
 placed within the font.- -Then there is the 
 sword of that great warrior, Charles xii. of 
 Sweden, which was presented by him to an 
 officer in the Norwegian army who had bravely 
 defended himself against a greatly superior 
 force under the coniniaiul of Charles, and at 
 length was compelled to surrender when hors 
 dc couibat from his numerous wounds. On the
 
 in Scandinavia. 177 
 
 same floor are various objects from the sub- 
 sequent reigns, including the golden pistols of 
 Frederik v., one of the presents sent to him and 
 his Queen Louise, daughter of our George 11. 
 — one of the most popular of the Queens of 
 Denmark. There are also many relics of the 
 unhappy Queen Caroline- Mathilde. 
 
 The 'Knight's Hall' [Riddersat) occupies 
 the whole of the second floor. It is a splendidly 
 decorated apartment, measuring 150 feet in 
 length, 28 in breadth, and about 20 in height. 
 Its present ornamentation is of the time of 
 Frederik iv., but the chimneys — all that remains 
 of the original structure, as far as this part of 
 the palace is concerned- — ^belong to the days 
 of Christian iv. Until the bepfinnine of the 
 eighteenth century this grand apartment had 
 a flat ceiling, with painted designs ; but that 
 was removed, and the present vaulted ceil- 
 ing, beautifully ornamented with carving, sub- 
 stituted. Twelve great pieces of tapestry adorn 
 
 M
 
 ijS JFiiysidc jYofcs 
 
 the walls. They are said to be of Danish work- 
 manship of the time of Christian v., from the 
 designs of Peter Andersen, and represent pas- 
 sages in the war between Sweden and Denmark 
 from 1675 to 1679. There are also candelabra, 
 lions in silver, and other things which arc used 
 at coronations. 
 
 At the end of the hall are two chairs, the 
 larger of which is used as the coronation throne. 
 It is principally of the ivory of the Jiarzuahl 
 or sea-unicorn, and is very attractive and 
 magnificent. It may be remarked that this 
 ivory was once considered worth its weight in 
 silver. Near the top of the chair is a hollow 
 opening, in which at coronations is placed an 
 amethyst, said to be the largest and finest in 
 existence. This grand hall is connected with 
 small rooms in the towers, one of which con- 
 tains the crown jewels, and is not open to the 
 public except by special favour. There is also 
 a splendid collection of Venetian glass, brought
 
 in Scandinavia. 179 
 
 hither by King Frederik on his return from 
 Italy : it contains a rich treasure of what is 
 called ' thread-glass ' {Jiligranglass). The other 
 turret room is devoted to ceramic art, and con- 
 tains, besides old Danish china, many excellent 
 specimens of blue Sevres and Dresden ware. 
 
 I am afraid that some of my readers will be 
 tired of my rehearsal of the beautiful works of 
 art at Copenhagen : so I will, for the present, 
 relieve them and myself by another legend of 
 Norway, which runs thus : — 
 
 On Kvalholm in Helgeland lived a poor 
 fisherman called Elias, with his wife Karen, 
 who had formerly been servant in a clergyman's 
 family at Alstadhang. Here they had a hut, 
 and the husband went out to fish for the 
 owners of boats, which he himself was too poor 
 to purchase. Ghosts were said to haunt Kval- 
 holm. In her husband's absence, Karen had 
 often heard uncanny noises, which could not
 
 i8o Wayside Notes 
 
 bode any good. One day when she was out 
 in the field, cutting grass as winter fodder for 
 a few sheep which they kept, she distinctly 
 heard talking on the beach hard by, but did 
 not venture to look that way, for she was sore 
 afraid of mermen. . . . Each succeeding year 
 poor Karen added to the population, as the poor 
 almost uniformly do, and when she had had 
 seven years of matrimonial life she had six little 
 children to look after. But both husband and 
 wife were frugal, sober, and industrious, so that 
 Elias had saved money enough, he thought, to 
 buy a six-oared boat, and start in the fishing 
 line on his own account. One day while walk- 
 ing on the beach, carr)ing in his hand a large 
 staff with a barbed spike at the end, he found 
 unexpectedly a big seal, which was lying and 
 sunniner itself l^-low a rock, and which seemed 
 as unprepared to meet b^lias as Elias was to 
 meet him. b^lias however thought liiin too good 
 a prize to lose, and accordingly dealt him a
 
 in Scandmavia. i8i 
 
 couple of blows with his spike. The second 
 blow sent the spike into the back of the animal, 
 just below the neck. And now came a scene. 
 The seal — and he must have been a large one 
 — rose at once on his tail as high as the mast 
 of a boat, and looked at Elias with angry and 
 bloodshot eyes, grinning fiercely and showing 
 his big teeth, so that the poor fisherman was 
 almost out of his senses from sheer fright. 
 Then out it dashed into the sea, colouring 
 the foam of the waves with its blood. Elias 
 saw no more of it ; but in the creek near his 
 hut there was found in the afternoon his staff, 
 with the iron spike broken off Our good 
 fisherman thought no more of this occurrence, 
 and that same autumn bought the six-oared 
 boat, towards which he had been saving money 
 all the summer. One night, as he lay thinking 
 of his boat, it struck him that it might stand 
 better in the shed if he put an additional 
 support on each side. He was so delighted
 
 1 82 J Fay side Notes 
 
 with his new purchase, that it was a real pleasure 
 for him to get up, light his lantern, and go 
 down to look at it. As he stood, with the lioht 
 falling on the boat, he saw, resting in a dark 
 corner, on some fishing nets, a face exactly like 
 that of the seal. It grinned at him a moment, 
 its mouth getting larger and larger, until at last 
 a huge mail rushed out of it, and vanished 
 through the door of the shed, yet not so quickly 
 but that Elias could see, by the light of his 
 lantern, a long iron spike protruding from his 
 back. Our fisherman of course became uneasy, 
 but still his anxiety was more for his boat than 
 for himself So he seated himself in the boat, 
 and kept guard over it. In the morning when 
 his wife came down, she found liim fast asleep, 
 with the lantern burnt out l)y his side. 
 
 Going out one January morning, a-fishing, 
 with two men, in his new and highly-prized 
 boat, Elias heard a voice from a rock at llie 
 entrance of the creek, shoutliiLr with a scornful
 
 in Scandinavia. 183 
 
 laugh, ' When you get a ten-oared boat, then, 
 EHas, beware!' But it was many years before 
 our fisherman could get one — not before his eldest 
 son Bernt was seventeen. In the autumn EHas 
 and his whole family went in their six-oared 
 boat to Ranen, in the hope of selling it, and 
 with the addition of a little hard-earned money 
 to buy a * ten-oar ' instead. A newly-confirmed 
 Finn girl, whom they had adopted some years 
 before, was the only person left at home. 
 
 Now there was a small ten-oared boat, which 
 the best boat-builder in Ranen had constructed 
 and tarred just before, and which exactly suited 
 the notions of Elias. He well knew what a boat 
 ought to be, and thought he had never seen one 
 so well-built below the ' water-line.' Above that, 
 in fact, it was only * so-so,' and even to the 
 inexperienced it looked heavy, and altogether 
 wanting a smart appearance. The builder 
 knew this as well as Elias did ; but he said he 
 thought she would be the best sailer in Ranen ;
 
 1 84 J Fay side Notes 
 
 and that he should have her cheap if he would 
 only promise one thing, and that was that he 
 should chancre nothing- in the boat, and not even 
 touch the tarring. And not until he had given 
 a solemn promise to that effect did he get the 
 boat. But the sprite that had taught the 
 builder this excellent form below the water-line, 
 had left him to his own devices as to the 
 arrangements above it, and they were very 
 indifferent indeed. The sprite had been with 
 him beforehand and ordered him both to sell 
 the boat to Elias at a cheap rate, and to insist 
 on the promise of its being in no way altered. 
 B)' this promise the boat was to have no cross 
 painted on the stem and stern, as the custom is. 
 It was not therefore to lie a CJiristian boat. 
 
 Before sailing home, Fdias went to a shop to 
 provide some Christmas cheer, including a small 
 keg of brand)-. In their j)lcasurc; over tlu-ir pur- 
 chase of tli(' boat, Ills wife, himself, and evi-n 
 young liernt, had taken a ' drop too much.'
 
 m Scandinavia. 185 
 
 They now set sail for home, their only ballast 
 being themselves and the Christmas provisions. 
 Bernt sat at the starboard ; the wife with her 
 second son had charge of the mainsail. Elias 
 himself steered, and the two boys, aged fourteen 
 and twelve, were to bail out the water from the 
 boat with a scoop. 
 
 They had eight Danish sea-miles to sail 
 (about thirty-six English miles), and as they got 
 farther from land they found that the goodness 
 of the boat would be tested before they reached 
 home. A storm blew up, and the foaming waves 
 began to dash angrily along the rising sea. Elias 
 now saw what a good boat he had got. It flew 
 along over the sea like a water-fowl, without 
 shipping even so much as a spray ; and he there- 
 fore thought he might take in one reef less 
 than it would have been absolutely necessary 
 to do with most ten-oared boats. Towards the 
 afternoon he discovered a ten-oared boat, not 
 far from him, with a full crew and a four-reefed
 
 1 86 Wayside Notes 
 
 sail exactly like his own. She was standing the 
 same course, and he was sorry he had not seen 
 her earlier. She seemed to be racing with him, 
 and he could not resist the temptation of letting 
 out a reef. The boat shot like an arrow past 
 land-points, islands, and rocks. Elias had never 
 seen such a grand sailing tour before ; and the 
 boat proved to be really the best in Ranen. 
 Meanwhile the storm increased and the waves 
 dashed twice over the boat, coming in at the 
 starboard, and sweeping out at the stern. As 
 it grew darker the other boat kept closer, and 
 so near were they that they could have thrown 
 a scoop over to each other. On they sailed to- 
 gether, the storm raging more furiously as night 
 came on. The fourth reef ought now to have 
 been taken in afifain ; but I'llias did not like to 
 lose the race, and thouo^ht he would wait until 
 the other boat did the same, where it was quite 
 as necessary. Now and tlien tlu- 1)randy keg 
 went round, as they luul to kct.-p out the cold.
 
 in Scmtdinavia. 187 
 
 The phosphorescent lights which played on the 
 black wave near Elias's boat shone with such 
 unusual strength round the other, that it looked 
 as if she were ploughing through fire, and he 
 could even see the ropes of the boat, and dis- 
 tinguish the crew with their sou'- westers ; but 
 as they were to the windward, they were all 
 with their backs to Elias, and almost hidden by 
 the gunwale of the boat. Suddenly a very heavy 
 sea, which Elias saw coming, washed over the 
 boat. For a moment it seemed as if the boat 
 stood still ; the planks shook and shivered under 
 the strain ; and then the craft, which had nearly 
 capsized, stood erect again, and continued her 
 way. 
 
 While this was (joinof on, Elias thoucrht he 
 heard a horrid screamino^ in the other boat. 
 But when the squall had passed, his wife, who 
 sat by the mainsail, said in a voice that pierced 
 to his very soul : ' O God, Elias, that sea took 
 Martha and Nils overboard !' They were the
 
 1 88 JVayside Notes 
 
 two youngest children, and had been sitting 
 with Bernt. EHas only replied : ' Do not let 
 go the sheet, Karen, or we shall lose more.' 
 Now, it was absolutely necessary to take the 
 fourth reef in ; and shortly afterwards the storm 
 raged with such fierceness, that Ellas, though 
 afraid of making the sail too small on account 
 of the heavy waves, was forced to take in the 
 fifth also ; and still his sail became less and less. 
 The waves beat upon their faces, and Bernt 
 and his second brother Anton who had hitherto 
 helped his mother to hold the sheet, were obliged 
 to hold the }ard, a measure resorted to when a 
 crew cannot even stand sailing with the last reef 
 in — in this case, the fifth. The other boat, which 
 had been invisible a short time, now suddenly 
 reappeared close to them, and rigged precisely 
 like his own. Iilias began to feel a dislike to these 
 neighbours. The two who helil the )ard seemed 
 to him from the glimpse thai he caught of their 
 faces more like dead men than living people,
 
 in Scandinavia. 189 
 
 and they did not utter a word. Somewhat to 
 windward he saw another heavy sea — the crested 
 waves shining through the darkness — advancing 
 towards them, and he prepared himself to re- 
 ceive it. The boat was steered so as to head 
 it, and the sail let out as far as possible to give 
 the boat sufficient speed to cleave through the 
 wave. But the sea came upon them, again 
 laying the craft on one side ; and when it righted 
 his wife had not hold of the sheet, nor Anton of 
 the yard-line : both, alas ! had been washed over- 
 board. Elias thought he again heard the fright- 
 ful screams in the air ; and he also heard his 
 wife anxiously calling his name. He knew that 
 she was overboard, and exclaimed : ' In the 
 name of Jesus!' and was then silent. He felt 
 that he would willingly have gone with her, but 
 at the same time he recollected that it was his 
 duty to endeavour to save the remainder of his 
 charge, namely Bernt and his other two re- 
 maining boys. At first they had been baling
 
 1 90 IVayside Notes 
 
 out the water, but now they were obhged to 
 assist Bernt, which they did to the best of their 
 power. Elias dared not let go his hold of the 
 helm, and he grasped it with an iron hand, which 
 had almost lost the sense of feeling from the 
 pressure put upon it. A few minutes afterwards 
 the other boat, which had been invisible for a 
 short time, again made its appearance. Elias 
 could now distinctly see the man who steered 
 it. Out of his back stuck a lai'ge iron spike, which 
 he inmiediately recognised ! And now he quietly 
 made up his mind as to two things : first, tliat it 
 was the ?^Icrman who steered his boat alongside 
 of his own, and was working his destruction ; 
 and, secondl)', tliat this night's sail was to be 
 his last. Me who sees a merman on the sea is 
 a doomed man ! I le said nothing to his sons, 
 but silently commended his soul to God. 
 During the last hour tlie storm had compelled 
 him to change his course, and as a snow-storm 
 commenced he decided that he would not think
 
 in Scandinavia. 191 
 
 of landing until daybreak. The sail continued 
 as before ; now and then the boys complained 
 of the cold, but that could not be helped, and 
 Elias sat too deep in thought to hear them. 
 He felt such a terrible thirst for vengeance, that 
 had it not been for his three boys, he would have 
 run into the accursed boat, which still continued 
 near him, and whose errand he too well knew. 
 
 If an iron spike could strike a merman, then 
 a knife or hammer could also do so ; and he felt 
 that he would sacrifice his life for one good stroke 
 at him who had so cruelly taken his dear ones 
 from him, and who even now wanted the rest. 
 Between three and four o'clock in the morning, 
 Elias saw something glimmering, of such a height 
 that he at first thought he must be close under 
 land, near some rocks. However, he soon found 
 it to be a mountainous wave. Then he thou2;ht 
 he heard a laugh in the other boat, followed by 
 the words : ' Now, Elias, your " ten-oared" is to 
 be upset.' Elias, who foresaw what was coming,
 
 192 JVayside Notes 
 
 cried aloud : ' In the name of Jesus!' and told 
 his children to hold on to the boat with all their 
 mio;ht, and on no account to let ijo before the 
 boat was again fairly above the water. He sent 
 the elder of the two young boys to Bernt, while 
 he kept the younger close by his side, stroked 
 his cheek, and assured himself that he held tight. 
 The wave came thundering on, completely 
 burying the boat beneath it. It next lifted its 
 stem, and then sank again. When it again ap- 
 peared keel uppermost, Elias, Bernt, and little 
 Martin still held on, but the youngest child was 
 lost. It was now necessary to get the shrouds 
 cut to enable the mast to float by the side, in- 
 stead of, as now, pulling the boat down. . . . 
 
 Thus passed that dark and dismal night At 
 length poor Martin, whom his father had at- 
 tempted to shelter, died and sank into the sea. 
 They had many times shouted for help, but now 
 they gave it up as useless. There only re- 
 mained poor Elias and Bernt, aiul tlic father
 
 in Scandinavia. 193 
 
 observed to his son that he thought he was 
 going ' to our mother,' but he felt sure that 
 Bernt would be saved if he would only hold 
 on like a brave lad. 
 
 Then he told him about the Merman whom 
 he had struck with the spike, and who was 
 now having his revenge, and that he would 
 not desist until he had killed him. About nine 
 in the morning day began to dawn, and then 
 Elias gave Bernt his silver watch and brass 
 chain, which latter he had broken in pulling it 
 out from under his tightly-buttoned coats. He 
 sat quiet for some time, but as it grew lighter 
 Bernt saw that his father was pale as death. 
 His hair had parted in several places, as it some- 
 times does when death is approaching, and the 
 skin was rubbed off his hands from holding on 
 to the boat. The son seemed aware that his 
 father's last hour had come, and got as near to 
 him as he could, in order to support him in his 
 dying moments ; but Elias, seeing this, only 
 
 N
 
 194 IVayside Notes 
 
 asked him to hold fast for his own safety, and 
 said : ' /;/ tJic name of Jesus, I go to Join our 
 mother' and then threw himself backwards off 
 the cabin top. When the sea had got its 
 victim, it gradually grew calmer. It became 
 more easy for Bernt to hold on, and as daylight 
 was now come, hope and courage came also. 
 Bernt knew where he was, for the boat drifted 
 off his own village, Kvalholm. He now again 
 shouted for help ; but he knew that his chief 
 hope lay in the current which bore towards a 
 place where a point of land broke the waves, 
 and where there was smooth water. He drifted 
 nearer and nearer, and came at last so close to 
 one rock that the mast was rubbed by it, as 
 the waves carried it backwards and forwards. 
 
 Stiff as poor Bernt was, from sitting and hold- 
 ing on so long, he succeeded in getting a footing 
 on the rocks, where he hauled the mast to land, 
 and moored what was now his own ten-oared 
 boat. 1 he V\\\\\ maiden, who was alone at
 
 in Scandinavia. 195 
 
 home, thought she heard shouts for help ; and 
 so she went to see from whence they proceeded. 
 There she beheld Bernt on the rocks, and the 
 boat beating against them. She rushed to the 
 boat-shed, shoved an old boat off, and rowed 
 out to his rescue. 
 
 Bernt lay sick all the rest of the winter, and 
 the Finn girl was his only nurse. People thought 
 he was rather queer afterwards ; at any rate he 
 never went to sea again, as he felt a great horror 
 of the water. So he became a peasant-farmer, 
 and as a matter of course in due time mar- 
 ried the young Finn-ess, and ' lived happy ever 
 after,' as the story-books say. 
 
 This weird legend is given nearly verbatim 
 from Mrs. Ellis's ms. translation from the 
 Norwegian. Of the date of it nothing seems to 
 be known. The seals of the period must have 
 been much larger than those of the present 
 day ; and I am sorry, as I have said, that this 
 amphibious animal is gradually becoming ex-
 
 196 JVayside Notes 
 
 tinct. A great portion of the so-called seal- 
 skin jackets and collars of which our ladies are 
 so proud arc nothing more than dyed Ostend 
 and English rabbit-skins carefully put together ! 
 The mermen of the north of Norway, let 
 me add, were not of the same species as the 
 traditionary mermaids of our nursery stories, 
 ' human above and fishy below,' but had legs 
 and feet like ordinary mortals ; they were in 
 fact a sort of ocean giants, always doing what 
 they could to injure the poor Norsemen sailors. 
 But now let us return again to Copenhagen. 
 
 This city contains four royal palaces, two of 
 which I have attempted to describe. The pre- 
 sent King's abode is Amalienborg, which stands 
 in the northern part of Copenhagen. It is 
 composed of four smaller palaces, fornierly the 
 residences of as many wealthy noblemen, but 
 purchased by the King after the tlestruction of 
 Christiansborg in 1794. In the centre of the
 
 in Scandinavia. 197 
 
 open space enclosed by these palaces stands a 
 bronze statue of Frederik v. In one of these 
 palaces the King himself resides, and in the 
 others members of the royal family— except 
 one, which is the Foreign Office. 
 
 The palace of Frederiksborg, surrounded by 
 a noble park, is now the Military Academy, The 
 park is a fashionable resort of the citizens, 
 thouofh indeed all classes are admitted. The 
 tramway which traverses the whole city termin- 
 ates at the principal gate. Within the entrance 
 is a statue of Frederik vi., who was accus- 
 tomed to spend the summer months here. He 
 is in the posture of a sovereign giving audience 
 to his subjects. The statue was cast in 1839. 
 
 Having spoken of the regal palaces of Copen- 
 hagen, I will say a few words concerning 
 their royal occupants and their genealogy. The 
 early part of the pedigree is like that of many 
 others, and about as trustworthy as the story of 
 the big seal just now related. It goes back to
 
 198 J Fay side lYotcs 
 
 Daniis or Dangritha, who died 998 years before 
 Christ! His sixty-first successor was Gotric 
 or Godfrey, surnamed the Generous, who died 
 A.D. 809. 
 
 Here I may remark tliat nearly every north- 
 ern king had a sicrua)?ic or nickname, similar 
 to our Coeur-de-Lion, Sans-Terre, etc. Fourth 
 in descent from Godfrey comes Siward iii., 
 called Siiakc-cye (a.d. 834). His son and 
 successor was Eric TIic Child, father of Cnut 
 The Little, whose son Frotho vi., about 921, 
 married an English princess called Emma. His 
 son and successor was Gormo Angle, father of 
 Harold v., called TJie Niggard, who married 
 Thyra, daughter of Ethelred, king of England. 
 His son Gormo TJic Old espoused another 
 Thyra, daughter of Edward the Elder, king of 
 England, and was grandfather of Sweyn 11., 
 surnamed Forked-beard (1041). Next comes 
 Cnut TJic (ircat, king of England, who married, 
 first, Alwine, countess of Northumberland, and
 
 in Scandinavia. 199 
 
 secondly, Emma, widow of Ethelred, king of 
 England. By his first marriage he had Harold 
 Harefoot^ king of England, Cnut iii., or Hai^di- 
 canute, and Sweyn, king of Norway. Cnut the 
 Great had a sister, Estritha, who married, first, 
 Richard iii. duke of Normandy, and afterwards 
 Ulpho, an English duke, and in her descendants 
 the Danish monarchy afterwards vested. Her 
 son by the duke, Sweyn 11 1. (1047), was father 
 of Eric III. The Good, and he had a son, Cnut 
 The Pious, duke of Schleswig, grandfather of 
 Valdemar The Victorious (1242). 
 
 His successor in the fifth generation was 
 Margaret, Queen of Denmark, Norway, and 
 Sweden, the Semiramis of the North, previously 
 mentioned (1397). Her sister, Ingeburga, mar- 
 ried Henry, duke of Mecklenburg, and had a 
 daughter Mary, who married Wratislaus vii., 
 duke of Pomerania. This match produced Eric 
 or Henry x., king of Norway, who married 
 
 ^ Probably from his swiftness in running.
 
 200 I Fay side Notes 
 
 Philippa, daughter of our Henry iv. The next 
 in succession was his grandson, Christian i., 
 elected in 1448. His father was Theodorik 
 T/i€ Fortunate, Count of Oldenburir. The sister 
 of Eric X., whose name was either Catherine or 
 Sophia, married the duke of Bavaria, and king 
 of Denmark, Sweden, and Norway, who died in 
 1448, and was succeeded on the throne by his 
 kinsman Christian i., just mentioned. He had 
 several grandsons, of whom three, Christian 11., 
 Frederik i., and Christian iii., reigned during 
 the sixteenth century. The last-named monarch 
 was ancestor by seven descents of PVederik v. 
 (1766), who married Louisa, daughter of our 
 George 11., and was father of Christian vii., born 
 in I 749, who married Caroline-Matilda, daughter 
 of 1' rederick-LewIs, 1^'incc of Wales, and was 
 father of I'rederik vi., who died without Issue in 
 1839. Christian \ 11. was a man of learning and 
 science — LL.D. aiul i'M\..S. On the tleath of 
 Frederik \i., his nephew, Christian \iii., sue-
 
 m Scandinavia. 201 
 
 ceeded, and died in 1848, leaving a son, Frederik, 
 who died without issue in 1863. Thus the im- 
 mediate Hne became extinct, and the next heir 
 to the throne had to go back to the early part of 
 the seventeenth century, ten descents, for the 
 blood-connexion with the elder line, and he now 
 rules Denmark with the title of Christian the 
 Ninth. His Majesty has several children, in- 
 cluding George, King of Greece, our own 
 Alexandra - Caroline - Mary - Charlotte - Louisa, 
 Princess of Wales, and Mary-Frederika-Sophia- 
 Dagmar, married to the heir-apparent of the 
 Empire of Russia. 
 
 Dry as the foregoing paragraphs may appear 
 to some people, they may be interesting to 
 others ; and when we look at the number of 
 matches between the royal house of Denmark 
 and our own kings, princes, and other distin- 
 guished personages of Britain, we ought to be 
 proud of our association with that ancient his-
 
 202 IV ay side Notes 
 
 torical country, and by all means to support it 
 by our friendship and to assist it with our arms. 
 
 Copenhagen has less than 200,000 inhabi- 
 tants, but it is fast increasing in extent and 
 population. Although it dates from before 
 the eleventh century, its aspect is compara- 
 tively modern, in consequence of the extensive 
 fires and sieges, bombardments, etc., which 
 have befallen it. In the year 1728 a great 
 conflagration destroyed about 1650 houses, and 
 in another in 1795 more than three hundred 
 were reduced to ashes ; and our boasted Nelson 
 knocked down three hundred more. 
 
 It became a prosperous town in the days of 
 the celebrated Bishop Absalon. and was the 
 chief residence of the Danish kings about the 
 middle of the fifteenth century. Previously to 
 that epoch it had become a royal fortress, and 
 even now its seaboard is defended by formidable 
 batteries. The drainage of the city has always 
 been more or less unsatisfactory, on account of
 
 in Scandinavia. 203 
 
 the flatness of the surface. Hence it has been 
 subject several times to the Plague. That 
 disease in 171 1 carried off more than 22,000 of 
 the population, and in 1853 nearly 5000 died 
 of cholera. The water is pure and good, and 
 is copiously supplied from Artesian wells at 
 a considerable distance. 
 
 Copenhagen has an Academy of Fine Arts, 
 originally established in the royal palace, known 
 as Charlottenborg or Kongensborg Nytorv. 
 The various schools of art existing in the city 
 have exercised great influence on the produc- 
 tions of the trades and manufactures of Den- 
 mark and the adjacent countries. The 
 Academy contains an excellent collection of 
 casts, etc., and in the early summer months 
 there is an exhibition of sculpture, pictures, and 
 other works of art. The charitable foundations, 
 too, are numerous and well supported. The 
 principal one is called the Vartou, a large brick 
 building of the seventeenth century, near the
 
 204 Wayside Notes 
 
 Westgate, and several sets of habitations for 
 mechanics and labourers, which Murray likens 
 to the Peabody buildings in London, which I 
 have not yet seen. They are convenient and 
 salubrious dwellings, and yet return a fair 
 dividend to the owners. The Infant nurseries 
 and the charities of the different trades are very 
 numerous. An institution for the <^//;/^ deserves 
 special mention. There is a considerable num- 
 ber of places of amusement in the shape of 
 theatres, ball-rooms, and such-like. 
 
 The isle of Zealand, which impinges on 
 Copenhagen, is variously spelt Seeland, Sealand 
 and Zealand. The last is that by which 
 EnMishmen know it, and the New Zealand of 
 
 o 
 
 the southern hemisphere is named after it, just 
 as the Boston and New York of North America 
 are after two i/reat towns in Entjland. The 
 part (if Zealand nearest the capital is not im- 
 pressive, being level ami without many trees. 
 The inhabitants are chiell)- descendants of the
 
 in Scandinavia. 205 
 
 Dutch colonists who settled here In the early 
 part of the sixteenth century. The costume of 
 the common people is generally more like the 
 Dutch than that of the Danes. The island has 
 been described as ' an immense nursery garden,' 
 and it supplies the capital with vegetables for the 
 table. But on that part of the island north of 
 Copenhagen there is much woodland, and to 
 this district excursionists frequently go. The 
 woods are partly on the coast, and partly around 
 the little lakes inland. Thither many of the 
 people of the capital resort during their short 
 summer. This part of Zealand is spotted over 
 with many hundreds — nay, thousands — of houses, 
 mostly small, but some large, surrounded with 
 picturesque gardens. The living in this part of 
 the island is said to be very expensive, but we 
 did not experience this. 
 
 Charlottenlund, five or six miles from Copen- 
 hagen, is a royal country-seat, generally occupied 
 by some member of the Royal family, the
 
 2o6 IVayside Notes 
 
 present tenant being the Crown Prince. This 
 is the great rendezvous of the Copcnhageners 
 on hoHdays and Sunday afternoons, when 
 sometimes many thousands of them promenade 
 the green lawns and the public walks, while 
 music and dancinof enliven the scene. The 
 Danes are not great Sabbatarians, though but 
 few improprieties occur. SomeAvhat late at 
 night the excursionists for the most part travel 
 homewards at the starting of the last train, car, 
 or omnibus. Still those who are disposed for 
 a more extended enjoyment or revel remain 
 behind in crreat numbers, and walk home 
 singing merry tunes and cracking jokes. 
 
 Near Charlottcnlund is a large residence, 
 built about a hundred years ago, by the 
 celebrated Count Bernstorff, and beariner his 
 name. It now, however, belongs to the Crown, 
 and is used in summer by the Royal family. 
 It is approached by a grand av(Muu^ of lime- 
 trees. Further inland are the beautiful little
 
 in Scandhiavia. 207 
 
 palace and grounds called Lyngby. The park 
 bears the poetical but singular nickname of 
 'beautiful roses.' The mansion is used as the 
 abode of the Queen-dowager. But one of the 
 most beautiful spots on the island is the deer- 
 park, which has been justly characterized as ' the 
 gem of the environs of Copenhagen ;' it com- 
 prises more than four thousand acres, and is 
 divided into two parts by a narrow river. The 
 southern portion of the park abounds with fine 
 trees, including many of the noblest beeches in 
 the world. This is the Royal preserve for 
 thousands of red and fallow deer, and red and 
 white stags ; the last-named being remarkable 
 for their size and noble proportions. Few 
 such fine deer-parks exist elsewhere — perhaps 
 nowhere. In the park are several large 
 inscribed stones commemorating the first meet- 
 ing on the spot of students from all the 
 Scandinavian Universities. On the neck of 
 land between the sea and the park are many of
 
 2o8 JVayside Notes 
 
 what may be called suburban villas of different 
 grades of elegance and magnitude, one of which, 
 called Skodsborg, was a favourite summer 
 residence of Frederik vii. 
 
 T think Denmark contains, or has contained, 
 more regal abodes than any other country in 
 Europe. In the capital or the immediate 
 environs there cannot have been less than nine 
 or ten, while others stood in places more remote. 
 Considering the smallncss of the kingdom, the 
 sovereigns must have had exceedingly large 
 revenues, not pcrhai)s so much from taxation 
 of the people as from the j)ossession both of 
 crown and personal territory. 
 
 At Soborg there was once a great castle, 
 which was, in early centuries, a place of con- 
 finement for state prisoners ; and near it is 
 Esrom, once a celebrated and well-endowed 
 monaster)-; but few traces of even its founda- 
 tion walls remain, so that we may .say of it, 
 ' Pcricntut cliaiii Ruitur' Gurre, on the same
 
 in Scandinavia. 209 
 
 route, was long ago a favourite retreat of some 
 of the kings, particularly of Valdemar the 
 Victorious, who kept a ' Fair Rosamond,' called 
 Tovelille, and there is a legend that he blas- 
 phemed his Maker by saying, that ' God might 
 keep heaven to himself, if he might hold on at 
 Gurre.' This profane expression was duly 
 punished at his death ; for, according to the 
 superstitious belief of the neighbourhood, he 
 may still be seen at night, with a weird and 
 demon-like troop of attendants, and a pack of 
 most unearthly hounds, breathing flames of 
 infernal fire ! 
 
 Let us hope that when the king wooed and 
 won the fair Dagmar of Bohemia, he changed 
 his course of life, and finally ascended with 
 his queen to the Valhalla. I think there must 
 be some mistake in name and date, for Valde- 
 mar II. was, as we have seen, one of the wisest 
 and best of Danish monarchs, and I think the 
 legend must relate to some much earlier king.
 
 210 Wayside Notes 
 
 Frederik ii. built the castle of Frederlksborg 
 about the year 1562, and some few traces of the 
 orio^inal structure still remain. The o-reater 
 part of the palace was pulled down by Chris- 
 tian IV,, who replaced it at the beginning of 
 the seventeenth century. In December 1S59 a 
 great conflagration destroyed the interior, and 
 very numerous relics of royal and national 
 interest were burnt. The exterior walls, 
 however, were to a great extent saved, and 
 they have subsequently been restored to nearly 
 their earlier condition, at a cost of about 
 ;^40,ooo sterling. 
 
 The great banqueting-hall was utterly de- 
 stroyed, and it has not been re-erected ; and 
 the church was also so much damaged that it 
 had to be rebuilt, and decorated in its former 
 style, by the help of plans and drawings, made at 
 different times, and which had fortunately been 
 preserved. The jjalace occupies a peculiar 
 position, standing, as it does, ojl three islands.
 
 in Scandinavia, 2 1 1 
 
 Among the few articles saved from the disastrous 
 fire are the altar and pulpit of ebony, massively 
 ornamented with solid silver, and the font. 
 Charles iv. was an artist of no mean talent. 
 He carved a great many subjects, which, with 
 some exquisite paintings in the King's cabinet, 
 were destroyed by the fire. An attempt 
 is beinof made to build a facsimile of the 
 cabinet from drawings executed previously 
 to the fire, and is intended to be in the 
 Renaissance style of Denmark. In the church 
 are the armorial bearings of the Knights of the 
 Elephant, — making it somewhat resemble our 
 own St. George's Chapel at Windsor, — as also 
 of many Knights of the Dannebrog, or the 
 Grand Cross of Denmark. On the island 
 next to the town stand two remarkable towers, 
 erected by the founder of the castle. 
 
 The entrance to the next island is defended 
 by a barbican or out-work, consisting of a mas- 
 sive tower ; and on the third island we come to
 
 2 1 2 IVaysidc Notes 
 
 the palace proper. It is composed of three 
 wings, and has a gallery decorated with excel- 
 lent sculptures. The building as we now behold 
 it is not only a monument of one of the most 
 accomplished of Scandinavian kings, but a proof 
 of the national energy of the people of Den- 
 mark, who subscribed liberally to the reparations 
 and restorations of the fabric, which could not 
 have been carried out without their assistance. 
 
 This edifice might be designated, not indeed 
 a 'Jackdaws' Parliament,' but a Rooks Court 
 of Asseinbly ; for, in the evening, thousands of 
 these birds from the large forest hard by assemble 
 on the roofs, and after a few minutes' incessant 
 cawing, depart. The meaning of this gather- 
 inof is not understood. Can it be a kind of 
 ' Convocation ' among these black-robed gentry 
 for the discussion of ecclesiastical affairs ! 
 
 A book might be written entitled ' The 
 Romance of the Danish Castles,' since every 
 one of tlicm abounds, not only in historical
 
 in Scandinavia. 213 
 
 associations, but in the legendary lore with 
 which they are connected. 
 
 Holy Wells, too, abound in this part of Scan- 
 dinavia, and one may be particularly mentioned 
 — St. Helen's Well, situated on the summit of 
 a cliff near the ruinated castle of Asserbo. The 
 tradition runs, that this holy woman was killed 
 by some pagan Swedes, who cast her body into 
 the sea, where it fell upon a stone, which imme- 
 diately rose, floated on the surface, and conveyed 
 the martyr to the shores of Denmark ! Some 
 Danish Christians resolved to bury St. Helen 
 in a neighbouring church, but only reached this 
 spot, when, mirabile didu ! the earth suddenly 
 opened, and received the saintly remains. There- 
 upon sprang up fair water, forming a 'holy well.' 
 This water soon became the resort of hundreds 
 and thousands of people suffering from all kinds 
 of diseases, under the firm belief that it was a 
 universal medicine. The favourite time for a 
 visit was St. John's Day, at night ; and, till with-
 
 2 1 4 IVayside Notes 
 
 in the last half-century, many superstitious 
 people came hither, still believing in the healing 
 virtues of the well. The antiquary who visits 
 these regions will find ample means of gratify- 
 ing his conjectural powers by inspecting the 
 various dolmens, barrows, and 'kitchen-middens ' 
 with which this district abounds. Denmark 
 has been rich in historians and archaeologists, 
 from the days of the learned, though credu- 
 lous, Saxo-Grammaticus (who flourished in the 
 twelfth centur}') down to the present day ; and 
 this is perfectly natural, because few countries 
 in Europe possess such * strange eventful his- 
 tories ' as this does, neither can any region ex- 
 hibit a greater number of primseval antiquities 
 than this. In mediaeval remains, however, it 
 is not so rich ; the churches are not, as a rule, 
 very interesting, though some of them are 
 very beautiful. The geology is worthy of 
 attention ; it has formed the subject of the well- 
 known treatise of Sir Charles Lyell, as well as
 
 in Scandinavia. 215 
 
 that of several works by native Scandinavian 
 geologists. 
 
 Before visiting Denmark I was under the 
 impression that Scandinavia was comparatively 
 devoid of trees, except those of the pine tribe ; 
 but was agreeably surprised to find vast forests, 
 and almost every variety of tree found inhabit- 
 ing British soil, and in much greater profusion. 
 The scenery, too, everywhere abundantly ex- 
 ceeded my expectations, and for romantic beauty 
 surpassed anything I had seen in England or 
 elsewhere. I think that, on these grounds alone, 
 many of us Southrons would like to take up our 
 abode in those northern climes ; but the great 
 drawback would be the long dark winters, 
 though the brief summers are warm, not to say 
 hot. 
 
 But to return : Roeskilde, in Zealand, was in 
 the tenth century the residence of King Harald 
 Blaatand, grandfather of Cnut the Great, and 
 successive kings held it as one of the royal
 
 2i6 IVay side Notes 
 
 palaces till the fifteenth. Before Copenhagen 
 became the capital of Denmark, this was con- 
 sidered the metropolis, and was the see of one 
 of the earliest Bishops of the North. Gradually 
 since that period, the city fell to decay, and its 
 present population, although now on the increase, 
 does not much exceed 5000. The city formerly 
 had, besides the cathedral, fourteen churches 
 and six monasteries. Only the cathedral and 
 the church of Our Lady are now in use for 
 devotional purposes. There is also a holy well, 
 ascribed to King Hroc, a sovereign of the 
 m)'thical class. Roeskilde Cathedral is the 
 larofest ecclesiastical edifice of the kino-dom, and 
 the bishop of Zealand, who resides in the capital, 
 is now considered the primate of the Danish 
 Church. The Cathedral was tlie last resting- 
 place of a large nunil)cr of tlie kings of Den- 
 mark. 
 
 The earliest churches in some of the countries 
 of luiropc^ were built of wood. In luiglaiul, so
 
 in Scandinavia. 217 
 
 far as I am aware, there is only one, that of 
 Greensted in Essex, remaining. The original 
 church of St, Pancras at Lewes was of the same 
 material, until it was superseded by the once 
 magnificent priory-church, founded by Gun- 
 drada, daughter of William the Conqueror, and 
 her husband, William Earl of Warren. The 
 oldest church of Roeskilde was a wooden 
 one, built by Harald Blaatand in 975. In 1047 
 the present church was commenced in red brick, 
 under the directions of Bishop William (Vilhelm), 
 one of the many of our countrymen who, at the 
 time of Cnut the Great, emigrated under his 
 patronage, and carried with them the more 
 advanced civilisation of the south. The cathe- 
 dral was finished about 1084, and some of its 
 original brickwork remains ; but, as was the case 
 with many great cathedrals, it suffered by fire 
 — notably in the years 1283 and 1443, — and 
 many alterations resulted. The arches before 
 the first fire were what we call Saxon or Roman-
 
 2i8 IVaysidc Notes 
 
 esque, and many of them still remain. After 
 that, pointed arches occur, in what we desig- 
 nate as Early English. The towers are 
 also in the same style ; but the spires, with 
 which they are crowned, were erected by Chris- 
 tian IV., who also introduced a kind of Eliza- 
 bethan western door, quite out of character 
 with the building ; as are the numerous chapels 
 which have been erected round the structure at 
 various periods. For some years the work of 
 restoration has been going on, under the 
 direction of skilled architects, and some orna- 
 mental work, hidden from view for very many 
 years, now appears in its original beauty. 
 
 This is by no means a large cathedral, though 
 it is considered on the whole as one of the best 
 in Scandinavia. It consists of a nave, with 
 north and south aisles, a choir with north 
 and south transepts, and a clerestory. The 
 spires on the western towers arc visible at a 
 great distance, and present a fine aspect from
 
 in Scandinavia. 219 
 
 every point of view. The nave is eighty feet 
 high, and diminishes in width towards the choir, 
 producing a very agreeable effect. I do not re- 
 collect any other church with this arrangement. 
 To describe this fine edifice at length would 
 occupy too many of these pages. There are 
 fine mediaeval paintings and sculptures in various 
 parts ; but the most interesting objects to the 
 historical and archaeological observer are the 
 memorials of royal and other distinguished per- 
 sonages. At the rear of the altar is the sarco- 
 phagus of ' the Semiramis of the North,' Queen 
 Margaret, who, as we have seen, united Den- 
 mark, Sweden, and Norway under one sceptre. 
 Dying in the year 141 2, she was originally 
 buried at Soro, but in the following year the 
 Bishop of Roeskilde was determined to have 
 her remains. These he took, vi et armis, and 
 deposited them in his cathedral ! The effigy 
 on the sarcophagus is of life size. Bishops 
 everywhere were sturdy fellows in those days ;
 
 2 2 o // \iyside Notes 
 
 and fought not only the ' good fight of faith,' 
 but understood the use of carnal weapons also. 
 
 On the floor there are many slabs indicating 
 the graves of illustrious persons, though some 
 of the oldest ones have been sacrilegiously re- 
 moved. The orcran, which is said to have been 
 set up in 1555, is of great size and of excellent 
 quality : it contains no less than thirty-six 
 stops. One of the most interesting objects in 
 the church are the stalls in the choir, twenty-one 
 on each side. They are ornately carved, and 
 date from 1420. In the last-named year con- 
 siderable alterations were made in the choir, 
 which contains the sarcophagi of Frederik iv., 
 Christian v., and their consorts, and in the vaults 
 beneath arc deposited the remains of several 
 children of the ro)al family. The skull of St. 
 Lucius, Pope, and patron saint of the cathedral, 
 the oldest seal of the establishment, and other 
 objects of curiosity, are preserved in the Museum 
 of Northern Anti(|uities at Copenhagen.
 
 in Scandinavia. 221 
 
 At the time of the alterations just alluded to 
 the bones of several distinguished persons were 
 disturbed, and immured within the columns. 
 Among these were the skeletons of King 
 Harald, a.d. 985, Queen Margaret- Fredkulla, 
 1130, Svend Estridson, 1076, and the English 
 Bishop Vilhelm, 1076 — a strange way of dis- 
 posing of the relics of the illustrious dead ! In 
 the north aisle of the choir are portraits of 
 famous dignitaries of the cathedral, and of all 
 the bishops of Zealand subsequently to the 
 Reformation ; and in the south aisle, or rather 
 in the sepulchral chapel built by Frederik v., 
 are the sarcophagi of Frederik himself, and his 
 consort, and many subsequent sovereigns. 
 That of Frederik vii. is of polished oak, with 
 a rich wreath of oak leaves in solid gfold. 
 That of Frederik v. is of marble, executed by 
 Wiedewelt, the celebrated Danish sculptor. 
 The next chapel is that of the three Holy Kings 
 of Cologne. The monument of Christian iii.,
 
 222 Wayside Notes 
 
 by Cornelius Floris of Antwerp, is highly 
 artistic and beautiful. In the crypt below lie 
 the remains of Christian i., who built the chapel 
 before 1464, as a mausoleum for himself and 
 his family. Some years ago, when this 
 monarch's grave was examined, his body was 
 found to be less than 6 feet 2 EnMish, thouofh 
 tradition had made him of gigantic proportions. 
 The floor above is used as a house of convoca- 
 tion of the clergy of the diocese. I cannot 
 describe the various minor chapels ; but a few 
 words must be said of that of Christian iv. In 
 it is a sarcophagus of the king, richly decorated 
 with silver, Anna-Catharina his consort, and 
 also Frederik in. and his queen, Sophia- 
 Amelia. In the north aisle is the tombstone 
 of the celebrated Saxo-Grammaticus, the last 
 of the legendary chroniclers, and the first of 
 Danish historians, who died in 1207. This 
 eminent writer, who was prefect in the 
 cathedral of Roeskilde, wrote an elaborate 
 
 i
 
 in Scandinavia. 223 
 
 work entitled The History of Denmark, which 
 I beheve was first printed at Paris in 15 14, and 
 was followed by other editions, the best being 
 that of Sora, in 1644, folio. 
 
 Altogether, the cathedral of Roeskilde is one 
 of the most interesting monuments of the 
 mediaeval time. Its sculptures, tombs, paint- 
 ings, frescoes, and relics of art of other kinds, 
 form a rich museum ; and, as it contains the 
 tombs of nearly all the monarchs of Denmark 
 for many generations past, it may be likened to 
 our own Westminster Abbey, in this one 
 respect only ; for Roeskilde, before the addition 
 of the ugly chapels which surround it, must 
 have been of grand and imposing appearance : 
 our Abbey could never boast of much archi- 
 tectural grandeur. This remark, of course, 
 applies to the exterior of the buildings only ; for 
 they possess both architectural and monumental 
 beauties of high excellence and interest within.
 
 224 J Fay side Notes 
 
 By way of vailing these sketches, I will now 
 draw again from Mrs. Ellis's ms. translation 
 from the Norwegian. 
 
 On a promontory near Trondheim stand the 
 church and parsonage of Trondenaes. The 
 church is the oldest ecclesiastical structure, 
 and one of the finest in that part of Norway. 
 The story is not of the sensational kind ; 
 but has internal evidence of being true. 
 
 The church, in St. Olaf's time, was royal 
 property. It is said to have been possessed 
 in ancient times of two very singular adjuncts 
 in the shape of towers, of which one was 
 square, copper-roofed, and surmounted by a 
 tall iron spire, and the other octangular. No 
 traces of these towers now exist, and they 
 were destroyed, probably, some ages ago. 
 This church stood, at one time, the northern 
 boundary-fortress of Cliristianity ; and one 
 might call to his imagination tlic time when the 
 far-sounding tones of its bells, its lofty spires, 
 
 I
 
 ^ m Scandinavia. 225 
 
 and other marks of the first Christian period 
 existed ; nay, he might go further, and fancy 
 a spiritual giant-bishop, and St. Olaf together, 
 bringing in the holy Sacraments, while the en- 
 lightenment which Christianity always conveys 
 with it was daily gaining ground among the 
 hitherto pagans of the north, and the light of 
 truth was successful in dispelling the darkness, 
 and the witcheries of the old dwellers in 
 Finmark. 
 
 Hither must have resorted the new converts 
 from long distances to worship the only true 
 God ; since it was not until long afterwards 
 that other churches sprang up nearer their own 
 villages and homesteads. Could the baptismal 
 font which stands in the choir proclaim the 
 names there given, or could the altar tell of 
 the Eucharist there partaken of, the Christian 
 marriages there performed; and could the church 
 relate what had passed within it since the time 
 of its erection, should we not wonder to hear
 
 226 IVayside Notes 
 
 their narratives and experiences ! But, even 
 before the Reformation, the spirit of sacrilege 
 invaded the sacred buildinof. Remnants of its 
 ancient church-furniture were stolen, and some 
 of the painted doors of its altars still remain in 
 cottages, and serve the secular office of doors 
 to cupboards ! But now the work of destruc- 
 tion has been stayed, and the peasant would 
 think it quite as bad to steal such things as to 
 take away the communion plate itself. The 
 sentiment of the Roman Catholic relisfion re- 
 mains here to this day, in old traditions ; and in 
 the admiration of the mysterious vaults, and the 
 mediaeval paintings on the walls, and the many 
 pictures of different ages, the poor mechanic 
 and the day-labourer delight in rebuilding the 
 old church in misty grandeur. There is, to 
 speak the truth, not a little of the old leaven 
 of the unrcformcd Church remaining amongst 
 them ; thus they would think it no harm to offer 
 candles for the altars if tlicy could thereby
 
 in Scandinavia. 227 
 
 placate the Almighty, and be saved alive in 
 times of danger ; nor do they think there is 
 anything wrong in praying to the Virgin Mary. 
 They know that she has been dethroned in- 
 deed, but piously acknowledge her all the same. 
 Thus, this class virtually seem to ' halt between 
 two opinions,' and are practically only half 
 Protestant. 
 
 The narrative I am about to give contains 
 the experiences of the young gentleman of 
 intelligence, David Hoist, of whom mention 
 has been made before, who was sent by his 
 father to a kind of seminary here, he having 
 previously studied in the University of Chris- 
 tiania. His delight was to ramble around and 
 within the church, and there to ponder over its 
 grand and time-honoured remains with a kind 
 of sombre affection, not unmixed with awe. 
 To use his, own words : ' I was very much 
 influenced by the impressions of the place upon 
 my imagination. The ground, said to be
 
 228 J Fay side Notes 
 
 hollowed beneath with vaults, was for me a 
 closed abyss of secrets, and the church, whose 
 quiet I often sought, had a sacred charm. It 
 was close to the parsonage. 
 
 It generally stood open, that the seminarists 
 might practise on the organ. The daylight 
 sometimes threw shades on the aisles and 
 niches, so that you could fancy that there were 
 beings from another sphere moving stealthily 
 about. I made great advances in my Latin 
 and Greek, whicli I read with the learned and 
 amiable clergyman in whose house I lived. 
 The other branches I read with one of the 
 teachers of the seminary ; but in my leisure 
 liours I sought these places, which had taken 
 sucli liold on my imagination, and therefore 
 Trondena^s was not the j)lace to which I ought 
 to have been sent. 
 
 My nervous e.xcitability was the greatest at 
 the chanw of the moon. i\\. such times these 
 \vcii-(l li.'uiiits drew me irresistih]\' to them.
 
 ill Scandinavia. 229 
 
 I stole thither alone, and would stay for hours 
 together, giving way to all kinds of fancies, 
 even believing I saw Susanne [his affiancde\ 
 thinking I saw her light figure gliding towards 
 me, though I could never discern her face. 
 It was at such a time, the second spring I 
 was there, that as I was sitting near the altar, 
 with Susanne's cross in my hand, I noticed a 
 large dark picture, which I had often seen 
 before, but had never examined until now. 
 It was a full-length painting of a martyr, who 
 had been thrown into a thorn-bush, the thorns 
 being as long and sharp as so many daggers. 
 They went through his flesh in many places. 
 One in particular passed through his throat, 
 so that he could not speak, or even groan. 
 Now as my eyes fell on it, the expression 
 seemed to me to become dreadful. He looked 
 at me as if he knew that I was to become a 
 fellow-sufferer, and should lie there when he
 
 230 IV ay side Notes 
 
 was at rest. It was impossible for me to take 
 my eyes off this frightful scene, and the picture 
 seemed to approach me more and more nearly. 
 In this dreadful representation the veil seemed 
 to be drawn aside to show me a part of my 
 own soul's secret story ; and it was only 
 through exerting my strength of will, and the 
 fear of my being drawn too far by my imagina- 
 tion, that I could tear myself from the spot. 
 Turning away from it, I saw a lady with a 
 rose in her hand standing by the upper pew. 
 Her expression was one of extreme pity, as 
 if she knew the connexion between myself 
 and the picture ; and the thorny rose which 
 she carried represented in miniature the thorn- 
 bush on which the martyr lay. In the quietude 
 of the empty church I felt a fear of invisible 
 powers, and in a panic, hastily rushed out of it. 
 As I stopped outside for a moment, I missed 
 the cross that Susanne had formed for me with
 
 in Scandinavia. 231 
 
 blue beads intertwined with her lovely hair. 
 It must have fallen from my hand where I had 
 been sitting. At this moment, with the dread 
 still in my mind, nothing in the world would 
 have induced me to go back into the church, 
 except Susanne's cross, which was to me in- 
 valuable. As I was diligently looking about, 
 I happily found it, and bore it off in a kind of 
 transport 
 
 The second year of my remaining at Tron- 
 denses my nervous system showed its weakness. 
 I was looking forward to my return home in a 
 few weeks. On one of my subsequent visits to 
 the church, in the meantime, I was again alarmed 
 by a trivial cause. A peasant had led his horse, 
 which was " wall-eyed," to the churchyard gate, 
 and I stood still to look at it ; but the dead 
 glassy eye haunted me all day. It seemed to 
 me that the animal saw the invisible rather than 
 the visible world, and therefore, should the
 
 232 IV ay side Notes 
 
 driver be careless of his reins, the horse would 
 naturally turn from the common road into that 
 where the departed spirits roam. In the after- 
 noon, while sitting with the clergyman's family, 
 and chatting on various subjects, I suddenly 
 saw a face fro7)i home. It was pale and worn 
 from exhaustion ; and I could see that the man 
 to whom it belonged was despairingly trying to 
 » climb up a rock to save himself from the surging 
 waves ; while it seemed to me that he was 
 burdened by some object at his feet, which I 
 could not see, but which was retarding his efforts 
 to ascend. The man gazed at me with almost 
 a glassy look. It appeared too, as if he wanted 
 to speak to me, or to tell me something. Judge 
 of m)' horror when I saw that it was our man 
 Ande7's ! The vision lasted only a moment, but 
 a painful and unbearable feeling succeeded, that 
 at tliat moment some misfortune was happening 
 at home. This drove me out of the room, and
 
 in Scandinavia. 233 
 
 caused me to wander uneasily about for the re- 
 mainder of the day. When I at last returned, 
 I was asked what it was that had made me go 
 back to the church. However, I had not been 
 there for some hours. Then they asked what 
 made me look as pale as death, and rush out of 
 the room, as I had done. 
 
 A fortnight later I received a letter from 
 home — and a mournful one it was. My father's 
 smack, " Hope," had been wrecked in a storm at 
 Stalhavel. The boat had sprung a leak, and 
 was obliored to be left on the shore. The lives 
 of the crew were all saved, but poor Anders had 
 had his legs badly crushed. The cargo con- 
 sisted chiefly of fish, and as marine insurance did 
 not exist in those days, both the smack and fish 
 were my father's loss. This misfortune was 
 succeeded, the following year, by the wreck of 
 another boat, "the Unity;" and the third and 
 finishing stroke was, the decision of the Govern-
 
 234 Wayside Notes 
 
 ment that the steamer should not, in future, 
 touch at our place.' 
 
 I have said that there is a strong affinity be- 
 tween the three languages of Scandinavia, not 
 differing more than do the dialects of some of 
 our English counties — perhaps hardly so much. 
 This is a strong proof of the common origin of 
 the inhabitants of Denmark, Sweden, and Nor- 
 way. I am sorry to say that I am not acquainted 
 with the northern tongues, but I can give a 
 few specimens. I think many people have been, 
 deterred from getting at least a smattering of 
 the language by the repulsive Gothic characters, 
 resembling those of the German; though the 
 Scandinavians, like the Germans, are gradually 
 abandoning these forms, and introducing the 
 Roman letter. For examples of the similarity 
 of the three languages, I subjoin a table of the 
 numerals : —
 
 in Scandijiavia. 
 
 235 
 
 English. 
 
 Danish and 
 Norwegian. 
 
 Swedish. 
 
 One 
 
 Eeen 
 
 En 
 
 Two 
 
 To 
 
 Twa 
 
 Three 
 
 Tree 
 
 Tre 
 
 Four 
 
 Fire 
 
 Fyra 
 
 Five 
 
 Fern 
 
 Fern 
 
 Six 
 
 Sex 
 
 Sex 
 
 Seven 
 
 Syr 
 
 Sju 
 
 Eight 
 
 Otte 
 
 Atta 
 
 Nine 
 
 Ni 
 
 Nio 
 
 Ten 
 
 Ti 
 
 Tio 
 
 Eleven 
 
 Elleve 
 
 Elfwa 
 
 Twelve 
 
 Tolv 
 
 Tolf 
 
 Thirteen 
 
 Tretten 
 
 Tretton 
 
 Fourteen 
 
 Fjorten 
 
 Fjorton 
 
 Fifteen 
 
 Femten 
 
 Femton 
 
 Sixteen 
 
 Sexten 
 
 Sexton 
 
 Seventeen 
 
 Sytten 
 
 Sjutton 
 
 Eighteen 
 
 Atten 
 
 Aderton 
 
 Nineteen 
 
 Nitten 
 
 Nitton 
 
 Twenty 
 
 Tyve 
 
 Tjugii 
 
 From this table it will be apparent that the 
 English, Norwegian, Danish, and Swedish 
 numerals have a common origin ; and the same
 
 236 
 
 JVayside Notes 
 
 similarity exists as to the names of the days of 
 the week and the months : — 
 
 English. 
 
 Danish and 
 Norwegian. 
 
 Swedish. 
 
 Sunday 
 
 Sondag 
 
 Sondag 
 
 Monday 
 
 Mandag 
 
 Mandag 
 
 Tuesday 
 
 Tirsdag 
 
 Tisdag 
 
 Wednesday 
 
 Onsdag 
 
 Onsdag 
 
 Thursday 
 
 Thorsdag 
 
 Thorsdag 
 
 Friday 
 
 Fredag 
 
 Fredag 
 
 Saturday 
 
 Soverdag 
 
 Sordag 
 
 January 
 
 Januar 
 
 Januari 
 
 February 
 
 Febniar 
 
 Februari 
 
 March 
 
 Marts 
 
 Mars 
 
 April 
 
 April 
 
 April 
 
 May 
 
 Mai 
 
 Maj 
 
 June 
 
 Juni 
 
 Juni 
 
 July 
 
 Juli 
 
 Juli 
 
 August 
 
 August 
 
 Augusli 
 
 September 
 
 Sei)teml)cr 
 
 September 
 
 October 
 
 October 
 
 October 
 
 November 
 
 November 
 
 November 
 
 December 
 
 December 
 
 ],)ecember
 
 in Scandinavia. 237 
 
 There is the hke similarity in conversational 
 phrases. Thus * Good morning ' is in Norwegian 
 God morgen, and in Swedish, God morgon. 
 ' Good evening ' is in Norwegian God aften, in 
 Swedish, God afton, and so on ; but as the 
 object of these sketches is not to attempt to 
 teach languages which I do not pretend to under- 
 stand, I must refer my reader to the instructive 
 pages of our friend of Albemarle Street ; and 
 should he desire a deeper acquaintance with the 
 Scandinavian tongues, he can easily procure 
 grammars and lexicons without sending to the 
 North for the purpose ; and if he is thoroughly 
 grounded in his mother tongue and the German, 
 he will not, as I believe, find much difficulty in 
 reading the three : of course the pronunciation 
 is quite another thing. 
 
 And now a few words concerning the nation- 
 alities of the North. We have been too much 
 in the habit of believing that the Teutonic 
 and Scandinavian peoples and languages differ
 
 238 JVaysidc Notes 
 
 widely ; but it is not so. These nationalities 
 have sprung from local and physical circum- 
 stances, and it would probably be no more 
 difficult to prove the common origin of the 
 peoples than it would be to prove that of a great 
 noble family for the last seven or eight centuries. 
 Slight differences of climate change not only 
 the physical characteristics, making men shorter 
 or taller, but also their voices, so that in the 
 course of generations their languages become 
 different. The old Teutonic appears to me to 
 be the great mother of these races and tongues, 
 and her influence, in the form of what we now 
 call (S^^rwrt;;^, has been influential in forming both 
 the physique and the language of all North- 
 western Europe. We speak of the successive 
 invasions of this country by the Anglo-Saxons, 
 the Danes, and the Normans, as if they were of 
 widely different origins — but they were all dis- 
 tant cousins of each other; all of the Gothic 
 type. True it is, that the Normans hail pre-
 
 in Scandinavia. 239 
 
 viously adopted the language of the country they 
 had conquered, but their general characteristics 
 were the same — a marauding, sea-going people, 
 anxious of acquiring territory everywhere. 
 
 The influence of the Danish conquest of 
 England is sufficiently proved by the local 
 names, in the southern counties especially. 
 The name Ring was a personal appellation in 
 Denmark. Hence probably we get Ringwood 
 in Hampshire, and Ringmer in Sussex. In the 
 latter county we find Danegate, Danehill, Danny, 
 and many other places upon which the Danes 
 have impressed their name by conquest. I 
 believe, too, that Hastings, Winchelsea, Seaford, 
 Shoreham, and other sea-coast towns might be 
 traced to a Danish etymology. It may be ob- 
 served also, that a great number of our nautical 
 words and phrases are from Denmark, and are 
 pronounced alike in that country and in ours, 
 though the orthography often differs. In some 
 parts of Scandinavia, the word skipper is applied
 
 240 Wayside Notes 
 
 to the captain of a merchant-vessel, as with 
 us. 
 
 It seems strange that the people of one 
 country cannot pronounce the local names of 
 another. The French persist in calling our 
 metropolis Londrcs, though the letter R was 
 never an element in the word. The Germans 
 too are great name-changers. In Windek's 
 History of the Emperor Sigismund, Canterbury 
 is called Kandebcrg, Rochester, Rosschetter, and 
 Sittingbourne, Sigenboz ! And we are perhaps 
 as much in fault as others ; for we call Helsin- 
 gor, Elsinorc, and Kjobenhavn, Copenliagen. 
 
 By wa)' of variety I will here introduce a 
 portion of ' The Gallant Soldier,' the national 
 war-song, ' Den tappre Landsoldat,' 1 848. 
 
 ' The time I marched away, 
 The time I marched away. 
 My girl would go with me, 
 Yes, my girl would go witli mc. 
 No, love, you can't do so, 
 I'or to llic war I go.
 
 in Scandinavia. 241 
 
 And if I do not fall, my dear, I 'W. soon return to you. 
 If danger were not near, why, I 'd remain with thee ; 
 But all the girls of Denmark are trusting now to me. 
 And therefore will I fight like a gallant Soldier. 
 Hurra, Hurra, Hurra ! 
 
 My mammy and my dad, 
 
 My mammy and my dad, 
 
 They thus to me did say. 
 
 Yes, they thus to me did say : 
 
 When those we trust upon 
 
 Forth to the war are gone. 
 By whom shall all the fields be ploughed, by whom the grass 
 
 be mown ? 
 Why, that 's the very reason we all must march away ; 
 Or else will come the Germans, and for us make our hay ; 
 And therefore will I fight like a gallant Soldier. 
 
 Hurra, Hurra, Hurra ! 
 
 Should the German us enthral, 
 
 Should the German us enthral, 
 
 Then woe be to us all. 
 
 Yes, then woe be to us all. 
 
 To Pe'er and to Paul, 
 
 He bellows ' Du bisfaul,' 
 And if in Danish he 's abused, he tells you then : ' Hols 
 
 Maul!' 
 To those who speak all languages, perhaps it matters none, 
 But a mighty deal of difference to him that speaks but one ; 
 And therefore will I fight like a gallant Soldier. 
 
 Hurra, Hurra, Hurra ! 
 Q
 
 242 IVaysidc Notes 
 
 To the foe defiance fling, 
 
 To the foe defiance fling, 
 
 For with us is our King, 
 
 Yes, for with us is our King, 
 
 He stands with sabre drawn, 
 
 To cut the Germans down ; 
 For years no king so Dansk as he has worn the royal crown. 
 Nowj they 'd have all the world believe that he 's no longer 
 
 free, 
 .^nd yet themselves would keep him fost, in German slavery, 
 And therefore will I fight like a gallant Soldier, 
 
 Hurra, Hurra, Hurra ! 
 
 For our girls and for our home. 
 
 For our girls and for our home. 
 
 We '11 fight 'gainst all who come, 
 
 Yes, we '11 fight 'gainst all who come ; 
 
 And woe the wretch betide, 
 
 Who his mother-tongue denied. 
 And would not give his life and blood for Dann^brog, our 
 
 pride. 
 lUit should I not return to my dad and mammy dear, 
 King Fredcrik with these famc^d words their drooping hearts 
 
 will cheer : 
 " His loyalty he proved, did the gallant Soldier." 
 
 Hurra, Hurra, Hurra !'^ 
 
 ' Ihuiis/i PittilS done into Em^lish^ by R. S. E.
 
 m Scandinavia. 243 
 
 Here I may appropriately introduce the 
 
 ' Capstan-song for the Danish Navy,' written in 
 
 1848, and somewhat expanded by R. S. E. It 
 
 is entitled, ' Come all ye jolly Sailors bold.' 
 
 ' Come all ye jolly sailors bold, 
 Heave and go, my Nancy O ! 
 Listen till my tale is told, 
 Heave and go, my Nancy O ! 
 
 King Frederik from his castle wall. 
 
 Heave and go, my Nancy O ! 
 Heard the German brag and bawl. 
 
 Heave and go, my Nancy O ! ' 
 
 [The Scandinavian national songs abound in 
 
 reiterations usqtie ad nauseam. I shall therefore 
 
 omit the ' Heave and go,' and give only the real 
 
 sentiments of the song.] 
 
 ' He heard the German's empty scoff, 
 Which only made him louder laugh. 
 
 King Frederik, in his own quaint way. 
 Says he, " Lads, list to what I say. 
 
 If you '11 to my assistance come, 
 
 We '11 keep those Germans safe at home. 
 
 You know and all the world beside, 
 The Germans have ^jatv so wide,
 
 244 JVayside Notes 
 
 Skin and hone they \i eat us quite, 
 To satisfy their appetite. 
 
 Now let us see to give these chaps, 
 A nice dose for their morning's snaps} 
 
 They say the Danish fleet they '11 have, 
 To cruise upon the dashing wave. 
 
 And so they shall — to stop their trade, 
 Their ports and harbours to blockade. 
 
 If this won't do to raise their fears, 
 
 We '11 knock their towns about their ears ! 
 
 Of Denmark, too, they want a slice, 
 And say, they '11 have it in a trice. 
 
 And they shall have the slice they crave, — 
 A \)x'\%Q)\\ for the German knave. 
 
 All this shall happen, as I say, 
 If, lads, your orders you '11 obey." 
 
 Thus spoke our noble, gallant King, 
 And with his words the air shall ring. 
 
 For we will never cease to shout : 
 "South Jutland in — the German out !" 
 
 ' Snaps, a kind of licjuor distilled from corn, and sometimes 
 called corn-brandy. It has a peculiar flavour, and is drunk 
 from liqueur glasses, not only at every meal among the well-to- 
 do classes, but even by peasants and labourers. It is very cheap, 
 costing only about 4id. a bottle.
 
 i7t Scandmavia. 245 
 
 The King trusts to his sailors bold, 
 And he shall find them as of old — 
 
 A loyal, true, and noble Navy, 
 
 To send the Germans to Old Davy ! 
 
 For Denmark's bright and fertile plains, 
 We '11 fight till not one man remains. 
 
 For Frederik, our King and Lord, 
 We '11 shed the last drop of our blood. 
 
 For father, mother, sisters, wives. 
 We 're ready now to risk our lives. 
 
 For Danish girls, with eyes so blue, 
 We '11 do all that can sailors do. 
 
 And Dannebrog^ upon our masts. 
 Shall float as long as this world lasts. 
 
 And now for our brave captain, we 
 Will give three cheers right heartily. 
 
 And for our noble frigate, Freia, 
 
 Than heaven we '11 raise our cheering higher. 
 
 Until the German hears the cheer, 
 Which turns his swaggering into fear. 
 
 Then, up, mates, up, and blaze away, 
 
 Heave and go, my Nancy O ! 
 With God for our King and Country ; 
 
 Heave and go, my Nancy O ! ' 
 
 ^ Dannebrog, the Danish standard. See p. 32.
 
 246 Way side Notes 
 
 While on the subject of Danish poetry, I 
 must remark, that from what I have been able 
 to make out of it, It lacks the polish of southern 
 national song, both as to rhyme and rhythm. 
 Indeed, it seems to recall the times of our own 
 Chaucer and Gower. It is rous^h and romantic, 
 and not at all wanting in vigour and expressive- 
 ness. I have a notion that climate regulates 
 poesy as it does the human constitution. 
 
 This seems to be a suitable place for the in- 
 troduction of the ' Song of the Watchman,' 
 which, down to the year 1863, was chanted in 
 the streets of Copenhagen. The following is a 
 literal translation by Mr. Ellis : — 
 
 S o'cloch. 
 
 (ijilluu '^\\\} iJcpailo, ;inli Jl.uhnc'3'5 rcicjno on caiih, 
 "xThc scene reniin^o n'3 of Ihc gloonv'J oiMlic ! 
 ^hcn let 'U^hiJ Uoht, (!) 3L'oil), before uo ohinc, 
 (Ldllulc lo Ihe silent tomb onr otepo tue bcni), 
 Jlnb grant a blcsoet) immortalitn.
 
 in Scandi7iavia. 247 
 
 9 o'rlork. 
 
 QTke ^itj) gUl)£0 bij, anb ©able ilight appear© — 
 Jfor Jtstts' 0aIvC, (Col5, our siu0 forgibe. 
 
 ^r£0crbc the lloval Jfamilg; 
 ^nb gttari the people tohick tki0 lanb rontain© 
 
 Jfrow banger of the OEnemt) ! 
 
 10 o'dork. 
 
 JEaster, mail), aub boy, tooiUb gou the hour knoh) ? 
 Et 10 the time that you to re0t ©howlb go — 
 '^nt0t in the l^orb iuith faith — anb rarcful be 
 ®f fire ^\\^ light •} for "Cen o'dork hae strtick t 
 
 U o'riork, 
 
 Jllmightji (Sob protect© both great anb small; 
 ^i0 holj) Jlngel0 guarb U0 like a toall : , 
 '^he ^orb himself our dtj) toatehes o'er, 
 Jlnb keep© our bobie© anb our 0OUI0 from harm. 
 
 12 o'dock. 
 
 ^t th' hour of mibnight lua© our <Sabiour born — 
 @reat blessing to a tuorlb tohich else toas lost ! 
 *^hen tuith unfcigneb lip© in praucr anb prai0e 
 (2rommeixb gourselbes to ©ob. — |3ast '^tuelbe o'dork. 
 
 ^ 'Of fire and light.' Oh that this warning were observed 
 everywhere ! Then would the disastrous fires, now so con- 
 stantly occurring, be greatly diminished.
 
 248 IV ay side Notes 
 
 1 o'clock. 
 
 © Jc6u Christ, tuc pran ^luc scn^ us help 
 'Jo bear our Cross toith patience in the tuorll), 
 
 ciFor Tlhon art 05ob alone! 
 JVni) ^hou, (D Comforter, ^hinc hani5 stretch forth 
 *\rhcu toiU the burthen light anb easu be ! 
 
 'Sihe clock has stricken ©ne ! 
 
 2 o'clock. 
 
 gracious |Cori5, bhose lobe for us toas such 
 'Jhat '"vlhou shoullist ^eign in iarkness^ to be born : 
 
 JVll glorn 's iue to Hhec ! 
 Come, ^)oIn (Shost, anli pour into our hearts 
 ^hj) hcabcnhi light, that tue man see ^hec noU), 
 
 Jlnb in Ctcrnitu. 
 
 3 o'clock. 
 
 IQlack flight Departs, auli pan begins to ialun— 
 licep them far off, (D (Hoti, tuho tuish us harm ! 
 
 'Uhe clock has stricken 'Hhree ! 
 J;athcr, ^hinc aiii tue seek ! ani) of 'Jhn Qraa 
 
 (Hibe us abunbantln ! 
 
 4 o'clock, 
 eternal Ojob ! U)ho luoulDst the ^iecpcr be 
 
 Of us Inho litDell beloU) — 
 ^0 Thee, surrounbcb by the ^Kabenln ^)ost, 
 
 !3)onour anb praise arc Due ! 
 ,i^or this goob nighl gibe thanks unto Ihe [I'orb ! 
 4[iemembcr '^^our' — toe 're summoncLi fioin our guarb. 
 
 * Figuratively, obscurity.
 
 in Scandinavia. 249 
 
 J^stt, ^hott JHarning <Stitr! iuc note xt%x^^x 
 %,a ^hii ^jrotcction, rhccrfulln, awx lling ; 
 
 ^£ thou his (Sutt anb <Shiclii ! 
 ^nb thoit, bright ®rb of ^itij, begin thii rourse, 
 ^nb, rising from the mcrcn-sent of ©oi, 
 
 ■^hg raiiant lustre iiiclb ! 
 
 The reason for the discontinuance of this old 
 chant, so pious and devout, I did not learn. It 
 has a special charm for the British mind, inas- 
 much as its composer was the son of a Scotch- 
 man. Mr. Ellis remarks, that * the author of 
 the original song was Thomas Kingo, Bishop 
 of Fyen, born at Slangerup in Zealand, 15th 
 December 1634, and son of John King, a native 
 of Scotland, whose father, Thomas King, grand- 
 father of the bishop, came over to Denmark 
 with his son, and settled at Elsinore, as 
 tapestry-weaver to Christian iv. John King 
 was a poor but respectable and honest damask- 
 weaver of Slangerup, as is impressively stated 
 in some pious verses by his son ; and a tablet
 
 250 J Fay side Azotes 
 
 to his memory still exists in Slangerup church, 
 where he was buried. 
 
 ' The Bishop, Thomas Kingo, is unquestion- 
 ably the most admired psalmist ever known in 
 Denmark, and his psalm-book, all of his own 
 composition, is now the authorized Psalter of 
 Christiania in Norway. 
 
 ' The change of the name of King to Kingo 
 is most naturally accounted for by the habit 
 prevalent with students in the seventeenth 
 century, of latinizing their names.' 
 
 The ancient capital of Norway was Bergen, 
 but, that city having much fallen off, Christiania 
 is now considered the metropolis. Bergen was 
 founded about the year 1069, by King Olaf 
 Kyrre. Soon after its erection, its fine harbour 
 attracted the notice of the Hanseatic League, 
 who erected a factory there, and it soon became 
 the cai>it;il of the kingdom. The grand old 
 castle, called the Bergcnhuus, overlooking the
 
 in Scandinavia, 251 
 
 city, gave the port additional importance. The 
 trade is at this day greater than that of any 
 other Norwegian port ; but the place has sadly 
 fallen off since the disruption of Norway from 
 Denmark, and the population at present does 
 not exceed 27,000. Its commerce, however, is 
 extensive, and exceeds that of Christiania, and, 
 though its temperature is higher, and perhaps 
 more healthy, it does not vie in fashion or re- 
 spectability with the modern capital ; which has 
 the advantages of a Court and a University, 
 
 Bergen possesses a romantic history. In 
 1 135 King Magnus was taken prisoner here, 
 and Harald Gille, one of the competitors for the 
 crown, put out his eyes. Not long after this, 
 the cruel tyrant was himself murdered. In 1 164 
 Magnus Erlingson ascended the throne, and was 
 crowned by the papal legate ; and in the follow- 
 ing century King Hacon, and his son and suc- 
 cessor, held the sovereignty. Norway suffered 
 greatly at different times from the Plague, which
 
 252 J Fay side lYotes 
 
 first attacked Bergen ; and in the earlier part of 
 the seventeenth century no less than four distinct 
 visitations of that direful disease were experi- 
 enced here, each carr)'ing off thousands of 
 unhappy victims. In the war between England 
 and Holland in 1665, the great Sir Edward 
 Montague, joint High-admiral of England, and 
 Knight of the Garter, pursued Admiral Van 
 Bitter and his fleet into Bergen harbour, but 
 was compelled to retire, as the Dutch were 
 defended by the fortifications of the city. Some 
 reminders of this engagement are traceable in 
 the Enelish shot remaininsf affixed to the walls 
 of the Cathedral, the fortress, and other con- 
 spicuous buildings. 
 
 The Norvveofians carried on considerable trade 
 with England, when the junior Hacon (Hacon- 
 son) concluded a commercial treaty with this 
 countr)' in 121 7. The English gained little l)y 
 the interchange, and they were finally ousted 
 by a monopoly granted to the Hanse Towns in
 
 in Scandinavia. 253 
 
 1435. The League, who had a large factory 
 here, carried on an extensive trade until about 
 1750, when the monopoly was broken through, 
 and commerce established with all nations. 
 
 At present the principal export trade of the 
 city is ' stock-fish,' a term constantly occurring 
 in the records of our English mediaeval feasts, 
 and meaning dried cod-fish, herrings, and cod oil. 
 The annual take of codfish is enormous ; and 
 the oil is said to amount to twenty thousand 
 barrels annually. The fish is generally fat and 
 oily when caught. The livers are thrown into 
 casks, and the best of the oil, rising to the sur- 
 face, is used for lamps, and, medicinally, for 
 scrofulous and consumptive diseases.^ The less 
 refined portions are employed by curriers for 
 dressing leather. 
 
 Besides the castle or fortress of Bergenhuus 
 which commands the harbour, there is an ancient 
 
 ^ Few English people would take this medicine if they knew 
 the nauseous mode of its production.
 
 254 IVaysidc Notes 
 
 tower called Malhendorf. It was considered im- 
 pregnable before the introduction of gunpowder. 
 Before the Reformation the city possessed up- 
 wards of thirt)' churches and conventual estab- 
 lishments ; but five churches now supply the 
 spiritual needs of this decaying capital. The 
 old Cathedral retains in its services much of 
 what we call the ritimlistic. In fact, as before 
 observed, Norway, or at least a considerable 
 portion of it, was only half reformed by the 
 introduction of the Lutheran doctrines. The 
 reformation was rather political than religious. 
 The double-towered church of St. Mary is the 
 most ancient ecclesiastical edifice in Bergen, and 
 is mentioned by Snorro Sturleson as being in 
 existence so early as 1 18 1. The sculptures both 
 in stone and wood are good of their kind. The 
 font is odd and curious. It represents a flying 
 angel of life-size, coloured, and holding the 
 baptismal basin in his out-.stretched hands. 
 This grotesque piece of workmanship is ascribed, 
 I know not on what ''rounds, to a Dutch artist.
 
 in Scandinavia. 255 
 
 Like all considerable towns in the North, 
 Bergen has its Museum. It contains works 
 good, bad, and indifferent. There is a kind of 
 art-union exhibition within it, chiefly of Nor- 
 wegian art, and one picture by Jansen, repre- 
 senting a Viking rescuing a Greek lady from her 
 assailants, is sure to attract the notice of the 
 visitor : the drawing and colouring are alike 
 excellent, and the picture may perhaps be pro- 
 nounced the best piece of art in the whole 
 kingdom. The Museum also contains a number 
 of Scandinavian antiquities, from barrows near 
 Vosse, and a considerable cabinet of natural- 
 history objects, a collection of 3000 Norwegian 
 coins, dating from the tenth century, and various 
 other interesting articles. Among the rest is ' a 
 beautiful and elaborately carved oak bedstead 
 of Dutch manufacture. Upwards of two hundred 
 years ago, this bedstead was brought to Bergen 
 by a young English couple, just married. They 
 settled here. The husband was unfortunate in
 
 256 Wayside Notes 
 
 trade, and soon afterwards died, leaving his 
 widow enceinte \\'\\ki her first child. Norwegian 
 hearts warmed to the young mourner and her 
 fatherless infant, and when they at last sailed for 
 England the widow gave this only and valued 
 relic of her happy days to a family here, who 
 had shown her the greatest kindness. Their 
 descendants presented it to the Museum, where 
 it remains a token of British gratitude for Nor- 
 wegian generosity.' ^ An object in the natural- 
 history department is sure to attract the notice 
 of the visitor. It is the skeleton of a horse that 
 faithfully served one master for forty years ! 
 In Scandinavia horses frequently attain an age 
 quite unusual in more favoured latitudes. 
 
 In the middle ages leprosy was a common 
 curse in Asia and Europe, and lazar-houses were 
 found in the vicinity of all great towns. Though 
 nearly extinct in other countries, it unha[)pily 
 
 ' Murray.
 
 ill Scandinavia. 257 
 
 exists in Norway, and hence, like other towns, 
 Bergen has its Hospital for Lepers. 
 
 A curious weapon, extinct elsewhere, still 
 exists here. It is carried by the night-watch- 
 men. It consists of a staff four or five feet long, 
 to which is attached a ball furnished with spikes 
 of iron about half an inch in length. This 
 formidable weapon is called the morning star, 
 and much resembles that which is held by Gog 
 in our London Guildhall. I believe that our 
 Cockney giants arc derived from a Scandinavian 
 parentage. 
 
 I may remark that some years ago, when the 
 Marquis of Waterford visited this city, he re- 
 ceived at the hands of one of the oruardians of 
 the night a blow from one of these litcifcrs 
 which nearly deprived him of life. 
 
 The city is very quaint and picturesque, and 
 the houses are of timber, and painted white and 
 red. It has been visited by many conflagra- 
 tions, and even at this time every house has at
 
 258 U^aysidc A'otcs 
 
 the door a water-butt for use, in case of such a 
 calamity. In the year 1488 great part of Ber- 
 gen succumbed to a direful visitation of this 
 kind, and most of the town, including no less 
 than eleven parish churches, was destroyed. So 
 lately as 1855 nearly 200 houses in the western 
 quarter were burned, and the hre must have 
 extended further, but for the open space called 
 the market-place, wliich the flames could not 
 cross. The streets are for the most part well 
 paved, but very indirect and irregular, as indeed 
 are those of most Scandinavian towns. The 
 haven is the forum of Bergen, and thither do 
 the inhabitants continually resort. On certain 
 days of the week the fish-market is held, and as 
 fish is the staple of Norwegian food, it is very 
 mucli frequented. The price of the fish 
 astonislies tlie stranger, as you can get one of 
 the iinm(Mis(.' Hat fisli called the halibut for 
 cighteenpencc English, and three good mac- 
 kerel for a jx-nny ! The port during summer is
 
 in Scandinavia. 259 
 
 crowded with merchant and fishing vessels — 
 the latter of peculiar and antique build, bearing 
 such names as the Orme or Serpent, the Drage 
 or Dragon, and other romantic appellations. 
 Along the north bank of the haven are the fish 
 warehouses, principally filled with stock-fish for 
 the southern markets. These stores formerly 
 belonged to the merchants of the Hanseatic 
 League ; and it is noteworthy that Bergen still 
 contains a kind of independent colony, descend- 
 ed from the Leaguers, who yet adhere to the 
 customs and language of the Germans. Many 
 of the sea-going population have customs and 
 costumes differino; from the rest of the Berofen- 
 ers, in this respect reminding one of the in- 
 habitants of the Pollet, a suburb of Dieppe ; of 
 the fisher class formerly residing at Brighton ; 
 and of the Claddagh fishermen of Galway. In 
 all these cases the isolated tribe seems to be of 
 a different nationality from the general popula- 
 tion. This is a subject worthy of consideration 
 and research by the ethnologist.
 
 26o 11 ^ay side Notes 
 
 The environs of the city are beautiful, and in 
 a high degree romantic. They abound with 
 villas, which command extensive prospects. 
 The great drawback is the rain, caused partly 
 by the proximity of the lofty mountains, which 
 at some points exceed two thousand feet in 
 height. It rains, more or less, more than half 
 the days in the year. We had not an oppor- 
 tunity of visiting these cloud-capped heights, 
 and niy physical strength was not such as to 
 allow me to clamber up to such an elevation. 
 
 Our 'guide, philosopher, and (ubiquitous) 
 friend ' of Albemarle Street observes, that 
 ' travellers should endeavour to assist at a 
 Bergen Farmer's wedding' \\q. had not that 
 opportunity. It is described as *a highly 
 picturesque and entertaining scene. Immedi- 
 ately the ceremony is over, the house is tlu'own 
 open to all friends and nci^hljours, and feasting 
 and dancing are kept up for several days. 
 Each guest brings a present. The bride
 
 in Scandinavia. 261 
 
 remains dressed in her crown and ornaments 
 during all the merry-making ; the crown is so 
 constructed that, by drawing a pin, it opens, and 
 falls from the head. Immediately she does this, 
 the music is hushed, and the guests depart.' 
 The inns of Bergen cannot be commended, as 
 they are neither comfortable nor cheap. 
 
 Christiania, though now the acknowledged 
 metropolis of Norway, contains a population of 
 little more than 70,000, or considerably less 
 than that of our fashionable town of Brighton. 
 Its original name was Osloe, which was founded 
 in 1058 by king Harold Haardrade, and, a few 
 generations later, was accounted only the third 
 city of the kingdom, — Trondheim (Nidaros) and 
 Bergen having the precedence. When Norway 
 became united with Denmark it was accounted 
 the metropolis of the former kingdom, and two 
 or three kings were crowned there. 1 1 possessed 
 a noble Cathedral, in which our King James i. 
 was married in 1589, to Anne, sister of Chris-
 
 262 JVaysidc N'ofcs 
 
 tian IV., king of Denmark. He was then only 
 James vi, of Scotland. He had not yet written 
 his ' Counterblast to Tobacco; and I do not know 
 whether the Norwegians of his day smoked as 
 they do now. Next to the Germans, they are 
 the greatest consumers of the weed in the world, 
 though smoking in the streets is strictly pro- 
 hibited by the police regulations. 
 
 Christiania has its real founder in Christian iv., 
 who called it after his own name. Osloe, with 
 the exception of a few houses and the Bishop's 
 Palace, was burnt to the ground in 1624, 
 Christian had been lucky enough to have 
 discovered for hini a rich silver mine at 
 Konofsbercf, and after visitinij it he set to work 
 with a will to found tlie new city. The town 
 had previously consisted of what in England 
 we call post-and-pancl houses ; but Christian 
 laid tlic foundations on a much blotter scale, 
 arranging the streets at right angles, and making 
 the roadways broad and liandsome. I wish our 
 
 I
 
 ill Scandinavia. 263 
 
 ancestors had followed his example after the 
 great fire of London in 1666. All the cities 
 and towns of Scandinavia were originally built 
 of wood, and hence the numerous disasters by- 
 fire which they have experienced. Even so 
 lately as 1858, a great conflagration took place 
 here ; but the mean ' messuages and tenements' 
 have been replaced by well-built houses, some 
 of which would adorn any city in the world. 
 The fire alluded to occurred in the spring of 
 1858, and about a thousand people were 
 rendered homeless by the destruction of sixty 
 houses. The loss in buildings and furniture 
 amounted to nearly a quarter of a million 
 sterling. 
 
 A traveller has well observed that ' the city 
 of Christiania is so lovely in position, floating 
 on the waters, encircled by hills and islands, as 
 to need little adornment from art' The Nor- 
 wegians are justly proud of their capital and 
 their country. They are an energetic people,
 
 264 Wayside Notes 
 
 and overflow with patriotism, notwithstanding 
 the many natural disadvantages to which they 
 are subject, as to geographical position and 
 climate. To their national cry of Gamle Norge, 
 we must sympathetically exclaim ' God bless 
 Old Norway /' I only wish they belonged to 
 Denmark, and not to Sweden ; but they seem 
 to be bound up in their own nationality, to 
 whatever foreign rule they may be subject. 
 They remind us somewhat of the ^^ovi\2S\ fasces 
 or ' bundle of sticks,' with an axe in the middle, 
 representing the sovereign, who is harmless so 
 long as they continue to remain bound together, 
 in mutual self-defence. 
 
 Christiania contains the usual public buildings, 
 a finely situated royal palace, a new Storthing 
 or House of Parliament, and a curious octagonal 
 church of brick, called Trinity Church (Trefol- 
 digheds-Kirke). It ]t)()ks more like a cliapter- 
 housc than a cluuxh. Il is covered by an 
 immense dome of brick, and even the groining
 
 in Scandijiavia. 265 
 
 ribs are of the same material. At the Univer- 
 sity, five hundred students are educated gratis 
 on payment of a trifling entrance fee. It 
 contains a National Gallery, and an excellent 
 library of 200,000 volumes. 
 
 I think the Scandinavians pay more attention 
 to their national antiquities than the inhabitants 
 of any other region in existence. It is true 
 that their museums cannot vie with our own 
 British Museum and the great collections in 
 Germany and France ; but their excellence 
 consists in their strict nationality. The Museum 
 of Northern Antiquities contains, among other 
 notable objects, Runic inscriptions ; a remark- 
 able massive ijold collar with numerous ofold 
 and silver ornaments found in 1834. They are 
 perhaps somewhat fancifully believed to have 
 originally adorned a statue of Woden, and to 
 have been buried in the earth at the introduction 
 of Christianity into Norway. We ' Southrons ' 
 should have known better, and turned the
 
 266 Wayside Notes 
 
 precious metals into current coins of the realm. 
 And here I may remark, parenthetically, that, 
 during our brief sojourn in Scandinavia we 
 never saw a single gold coin except what we 
 carried with us — the currency being small bank- 
 notes, and silver and copper coins, the latter 
 silvered over. 
 
 Duelling was common in Norway within the 
 present century, especially among the lower 
 classes. The antagonists commenced operations 
 by driving their weapon, a knife, into a piece of 
 wood. So much of the iron as was not buried 
 in the wood was then bound round with slips of 
 bullock's hide. Then the antag'onists were tied 
 face to face with each other by a strong girdle, 
 so tliat neither of them could escape the terrible 
 embrace. ' Then came the tug of war.' Each 
 man, furnished by the bystanders with his 
 deadly weapon, fought as long as human 
 endurance would permit lu'm. This curious 
 duel was known as ' the battle of the girdle.'
 
 in Scandinavia. 267 
 
 Specimens of the girdle and duel-knives are. 
 
 preserved in the Museum. But perhaps the 
 
 objects most interesting to lady visitors in this 
 
 collection are the crown, girdle, and frontlet, 
 
 similar to those worn by the Norwegian brides 
 
 at the present day. ' A virtuous woman is a 
 
 crown to her husband ;' and those women whose 
 
 previous lives have been unchaste dare not don 
 
 the emblem at the marriage ceremony. This 
 
 is a sad disgrace to the bride ; but, happily, 
 
 comparatively few cases of this kind ar6 found 
 
 in the Bergen district, where I believe the 
 
 morals of the people are as good as those of the 
 
 inhabitants of any country of Europe. The 
 
 collection contains many specimens of mediaeval 
 
 w^ood-carving, and ornaments in flint, silver, 
 
 gold and bronze, old pieces of armour, swords, 
 
 etc. There are also many statuettes of the 
 
 Scandinavian gods and heroes, horses, and other 
 
 objects in bronze. 
 
 I have elsewhere said that parts of Norway
 
 268 JVaysidc Notes 
 
 were but half- Protestantized at the Reformation; 
 and I might have said not even Christianized ; 
 for, to this day, if a peasant finds one of these 
 httle bronze statuettes, lie \\\\\ not willingly part 
 with it, because forsooth he thinks that it 
 possesses some magical healing powers, and 
 literally makes it a Jumsehold god ! In fact the 
 Norsemen of the higher latitudes are nearly as 
 idolatrous as the Ashantees or the inhabitants 
 of Central Africa. Superstition, rather than 
 Religion, has its hold on the uncultivated mind 
 of these ignorant people. 
 
 On a previous page I have alluded to 
 Scandinavian names in h^ngland, Ix^lh local 
 and surnomical, wliich have been borrowed 
 from the Scandinavian nations. I now pro- 
 ceed to give a few more instances. J-^y is a 
 very common Lcrmiiialion to i)lace-names in 
 England, and nearly all of them have given 
 surnames to our families. Appleby, Rugby,
 
 in Scandinavia. 269 
 
 Whitby, Newby,Saxby, Frisby,Z?^;2^jj/,Swainby, 
 Brandsby, and a host of others, arc not only 
 local, but family names. ' By ' itself exists as 
 a surname, and is the shortest one in our 
 language. The word primarily signified a 
 farm-house or country-dwelling ; afterwards it 
 came to mean a village, town, or borough (see 
 Worsase's Danes in England^ I should have 
 observed that in Lincolnshire alone there are 
 no less than 2 1 2 places which have this 
 termination. 
 
 To proceed with other names, I may remark 
 that our Swain, Swayne, etc., are derived from 
 Sven, a well-known name in Scandinavia. 
 Our name Holden is the Danish for zuealthy, 
 like Rich, etc. Scrase, again, is pure Danish 
 SkviUlS, which means non-erect, or, as we say, 
 ' lop-sided,' probably a nickname given to the 
 first bearer from his personal deformity. The 
 family of Scrase is believed to be the oldest in 
 England, having held good lands in Sussex at
 
 270 Wayside Notes 
 
 and before the date of the Norman Conquest. 
 Our name Holman (in Danish Holmcn) signi- 
 fies the inhabitant of a ' holm,' or Httle island, 
 •whence therefore our Holmes. Gurre is a 
 place in Norway, whence our family name of 
 Gurr. 
 
 The name Thorvald (whence Thorvaldsen) 
 has become in England Tyrrel, Torel, Turl, 
 Tourle, etc. Sigurd of Denmark is our Segar. 
 We derive our Harrild from Harald, our Foster 
 from Fostre, our Anderson from Andersen, 
 our Earle from Jarl (pronounced larl), our 
 Olive from Olaf, our Eager from /Egir, our 
 Lye from Lie, our Wickens from Wikin (origin- 
 ally Viking), our Berners from Berner, our 
 Kettel and Catell from the Norwegian Kitil. 
 our Gill from Gillie, our Warner from Werner, 
 our Winter from Winlhcr, and our Gecre from 
 Gcer. The Scandinavian Bright is our Bright, 
 Lumbye our Liiniby, Isgar our Isgar, Strange 
 our Strange, and Kaarc our Carey.
 
 in Scandinavia. 271 
 
 It may be objected that some of the names 
 cited come from Normandy. Granted ; but it 
 must be remembered that many hundreds of 
 Norman names came originally from Scan- 
 dinavia. See a recent work called The Norman 
 People, passim. We are in want of a book 
 which might be called The Common Origin of 
 Nations, to show how all mankind have sprung 
 from one stock. 
 
 I had not much opportunity, in my short 
 visit, to look into the state of Education in 
 Scandinavia, but I believe there are few parts 
 of it where all classes are not better educated 
 than in England. A ' national school ' in 
 England is generally superintended by a person 
 — often pretentious — who can teach the ' three 
 R's,' and a little besides. He is usually, so far 
 as my observation goes, nothing of a scholar. 
 In Scandinavia, however, the case is different, 
 and the national schoolmaster is a graduate of
 
 272 Wayside Notes 
 
 one or the other of the Universities. I could 
 not help laughing when I was informed that a 
 common barber, before he could open shop, 
 was obliged to pass an examination in Cornelius 
 Nepos ! What connexion there was between 
 easy shaving and cutting hair and that good 
 old classic I did not understand at first ; but I 
 afterwards recollected that the barber of the 
 present age represents the ' barbcr-chirurgeon ' 
 of bygone days, whose functions were not 
 limited to the trimming of the facial ornament, 
 but extended to blood-letting and other surgical 
 operations ; so that he was really a professional 
 man. I wonder how many London barbers 
 now-a-days could construe and parse ten words 
 of simple old Nepos, or even parse the Ten 
 Commandments in English. 
 
 Apropos of barbers. I heard a good story 
 at Copenhagen. A very fashionable Countess, 
 highly distinguished for her musical abilities, 
 was once at an evening parl\-, and [)]aying the
 
 in Scandinavia. 273 
 
 piano. At length she opened her portfolio on 
 a piece which required a violin accompaniment. 
 She inquired if any gentleman present played 
 that instrument. Unluckily no one could play; 
 but the lady of the house said she could easily 
 obtain an excellent violinist in a few minutes. 
 Accordingly, shortly afterwards, a sprucely- 
 dressed young man entered the room, fiddle in 
 hand. The Countess, not noticing him, com- 
 menced her piece, which, with the assistance of 
 the violin, went off admirably, and was ejicored. 
 When the piece was over, her ladyship turned 
 round to thank the gentleman for his able 
 assistance, when, horror of horrors ! she found 
 that he was her own hair-dresser. A woman's 
 anger may be conceived, but in this case it 
 cannot be described. 
 
 Music is much cultivated in these reofions, 
 and is considered almost an integral part of 
 education. I may mention as a curious fact 
 that bagpipes were invented in Norway, and
 
 274 J Fay side Notes 
 
 thence imported into Scotland during the period 
 when a portion of that country fell into Scandi- 
 navian hands. 
 
 We were preparing for a journey to Stock- 
 holm, when I again relapsed, and was obliged 
 to call in a physician, who carefully attended to 
 my ailments, and directed me to return to 
 England by the next steamer, for which, how- 
 ever, we had several days to wait. I soon got 
 strong enough to walk about the streets, and to 
 look at some things which I had not seen before, 
 and to have conversation with the people of 
 several nations at our glorious tablc-cV Jivtc, so 
 that the time was not wholly lost ; especially as 
 our kind friends were constantly near us, to 
 render us every possible assistance in our in- 
 quiries. 
 
 We might have steamed on the following 
 Friday; but no — it was an unlucky day to com- 
 mence a voyage. I do nut know how this
 
 in Scandinavia. 275 
 
 superstition arose, but it seems to be a common 
 one throughout all Christendom — so we were 
 oblig-ed to wait for Sunday, when we left 
 Copenhagen, ' the Haven of Ships ' as local 
 etymologists call it. The weather was beautiful, 
 but we left the harbour with much regret, after 
 the ..great kindness we had received, with only 
 a partially fulfilled object. Several of our 
 friends ' accompanied us to the ship.' The 
 ship, this time, was the ' Phoenix,' a less vessel 
 than the ' Valdemar,' but equally comfortable, and 
 we found good accommodation. We had eleven 
 biped passengers, and twenty oxen on board. 
 We were almost six days on the voyage, and a 
 truly miserable one it was. Neptune brandished 
 his great trident with frightful majesty ; Thetis 
 was grinning with her big white teeth ; while 
 Auster did his very best to impede our progress. 
 Indeed it was, though in summer, the most un- 
 comfortable voyage I ever experienced. Every- 
 body, except the captain, his wife, the crew, and
 
 2/6 J Fay side Notes 
 
 myself, was sick. I fortunately escaped that 
 direful malady, and, on going one morning to the 
 breakfast- tabic in the saloon, I found that I was 
 the only passenger who could eat. IMy 'sea- 
 lees ' failed me, however, but the kind-hearted 
 steward was always ready to render his assist- 
 ance. Besides the delay occasioned by the 
 stormy weather, we had to remain some hours 
 outside the Thames, and for a shorter time at 
 Thames Haven for the discharge of our 
 bovine passengers. Glad enough those poor 
 creatures must have been to set their trembling 
 legs once more on fcrra Jinjia, for they were 
 as sick all the passage as the human voyagers. 
 Tt is no wonder that we sec such poor emaciated 
 animals arrive on our .shores, as wc almost daily 
 do, when wc consider the sufferings they have 
 undergone in a sea-voyage, especially such a 
 one as we suffered. 
 
 At length we reached \Vai)i)ing, and were 
 glad enough to find ourselves in our snug little
 
 ill Scandinavia. 277 
 
 home a few miles distant, rather the worse for 
 wear and tear, but full of agreeable reminis- 
 cences of the pleasant scenes and new-made 
 friendships in Scandinavia. 
 
 FINIS. 
 
 S 2
 
 INDEX. 
 
 AlTKEN, Dr., of Edinburgh, 28. 
 
 Amalienborg, 158, 167, 196. 
 
 Anacreon, quotation from, 76. 
 
 Ansgar, St., attempts to Christian- 
 ize Scandinavia, 62. 
 
 Arabic and Cufic coins, 102. 
 
 Architecture, Christian-the-Fourth 
 style, 36. 
 
 Bagpipes invented in Norway, 273. 
 Barbers and Cornelius Nepos, 272. 
 Bergen, 250 ; Museum, 255. 
 Bernadotte, 68. 
 
 Black-death, the, visits Norway, 57. 
 Blichfeldt, Mrs., 25. 
 Breakspeare (Pope Adrian IV.), 57. 
 By, a termination of names, 269. 
 
 Canute or Cnut the Great, 53. 
 Capstan Song (Danish), 243. 
 Caroline-Mathilde, 6. 
 Catherine of Russia and Peter the 
 
 Great, their exploit, 70. 
 Charlottenlund, 205. 
 Christian I., Christian in., and 
 
 Christian iv., 35. 
 Christian II. not a Giant, 222. 
 Christian and Caroline-Mathilde, 
 
 37- 
 
 Christian Vll. and viii., 200. 
 
 Christian IX., King of Denmark, 8. 
 
 Christian and Frederik, names of 
 places derived from them, 36. 
 
 Christiania, 261. 
 
 fires at, 263. 
 
 founded, 59, 
 
 Christianity introduced in Scan- 
 dinavia by Ansgarius, 31. 
 
 Copenhagen, general impressions 
 of, 17. 
 
 general notice of, 69 ; Round 
 
 Tower at, 69 ; Great Fire, 202 ; 
 Academy, 203. 
 
 Exchange, 36. 
 
 Countess, the, and the barber, 272. 
 
 Dahl, M., a composer, 157. 
 
 Danish sheep and oxen, 29. 
 
 Danish character for frankness, hos- 
 pitality, etc., 23, 25, 30. 
 
 Danish Conquest of England, 238. 
 
 Dannebrog, national ensign of Den- 
 mark, 32, 33. 
 
 David Ilolst, 14S, 227. 
 
 Denmark, national Song at Moen's 
 Klint, 1S52, 14. 
 
 Dovrefjelds, the, 42. 
 
 Dream in Denmark, 133. 
 
 Duelling, singular, in Norway, 266.
 
 28o 
 
 Index. 
 
 Education in Scandinavia, 271, 
 
 Ellas, romantic story of, 179. 
 
 Ellis, Rev. R. S., Chaplain of 
 Legation in Denmark, 18 ; his 
 translations of Danish poetry, 2 1 , 
 22. 
 
 Ellis, Mrs., her MS., 137 d 
 passim. 
 
 Elsinore, 4, 5. 
 
 English Church ser\ice in the 
 Moravian Chapel, 18. 
 
 Engelhardt, Professor, 78. 
 
 Eric of Pomerania, 35. 
 
 Eric XIV., unfortunate king, 67. 
 
 Ethnographic Museum at Copen- 
 hagen, 152, 
 
 Family names in Scandinavia, 270. 
 
 Farmer's wedding in Norway, 261. 
 
 Fellow-voyagers, 3. 
 
 Finlanders, 125. 
 
 Fish at Bergen, 253, 258. 
 
 Forests and trees of Scandinavia, 
 
 213- 
 
 Frederik and Louisa, 37. 
 
 Frederik vi., 41. 
 
 Frederik VI I., his gift to the 
 
 Princess of Wales, 115. 
 Frederiksborg, 210. 
 Funerals in Denmark, 159. 
 
 Gallant Soldier, Danish song, 
 
 240. 
 Glorious sunset in the North Sea, 2. 
 Goths and Swedes, wars between, 
 
 63. 
 Gustavus Adolplnis, 67, 
 Ciustavus Vasa, 66. 
 Gyda the Beautiful, 49. 
 
 H.\GEN 'the Good,' 51. 
 
 Hamlet, pretended grave of, 6. 
 
 Harald the Fair-haired, 49. 
 
 Harald Blaatand, king, 215. 
 
 Harald in. founds Oslo, now 
 Christiania, 53. 
 
 Harold and Tostig killed at Stam- 
 ford, 53. 
 
 History of Denmark, 30, 31. 
 
 Holman, a Danish name, 270. 
 
 Holmen's Kirke, 160. 
 
 Horse, a faithful, 256. 
 
 Horses, beautiful, at Copenhagen, 
 16. 
 
 Horsholm Palace, the Versailles 
 of the North, 20. 
 
 Hotel Royal, Copenhagen, 17. 
 
 Jernbane Hotel, Copenhagen, 15. 
 Jonas Lie, 135, etc. 
 
 KiNGo, Thomas, Bishop of Fyen, 
 
 249. 
 ' Kitchen-middens,' 80. 
 Kronborg Castle, 5. 
 
 Leprosy in Scandinavia, 256. 
 
 Library, Royal, at Copenhagen, 
 163. 
 
 Lyell on the Geology of .Scandi- 
 navia, 214. 
 
 Magnus 'Barefoot' conijucrs the 
 Isle of Man and jiart of Scotland 
 and Ireland, 54. 
 
 Magnus I., 63. 
 
 Margaret, Queen, 34. 
 
 Margaret, the ' Scniiramis ' of the 
 North, 58. 
 
 Marienlysl, 5.
 
 Index. 
 
 281 
 
 Mermen and Dead-men, comljat 
 
 between, 150. 
 Moltke's Gallery, 163. 
 ' Morning Star,' the, a weapon, 257. 
 Museum of Northern Antiquities, 
 
 77- ■ 
 
 Nelson, Lord, his great sea-fight 
 
 with the Danes, 39. 
 Niels Ebbesen, 34. 
 Norway, picturesque scenery of, 
 
 geology, etc., 42. 
 
 costume in, 43. 
 
 sports in, 44. 
 
 ceded to Sweden, 40. 
 
 mountains of, 42. 
 
 Norwegian storm, a, 137. 
 superstitions, 147. 
 
 Odin or Woden, the northern 
 
 god, 61. 
 Olaf, saint and king, 52. 
 Olaf III. conquered by our King 
 
 Harold, 54. 
 Oldenborg Horn, legend of, 168. 
 Ophelia's fatal brook, 6. 
 Oriental origin of the Scandinavians, 
 
 170. 
 Oscar II., present king of Sweden 
 
 and Norway : his speech, 9-13. 
 
 Trincess of Wales held in high 
 esteem in Denmark ; verses in- 
 scribed to her, 13. 
 
 Queen Dagmar's Cross, etc., loS, 
 no, etc. 
 
 Queen Margaret, her singular dis- 
 interment, 219. 
 
 Railways of Scandinavia, 175. 
 
 Reformation, the, 1536, 59, 161. 
 
 Return voyage, the, 276. 
 
 Ringsted, royal burying-place, 112. 
 
 Roeskilde cathedral, 216. 
 
 Rollo 'the Walker,' 51. 
 
 Rolio, founder of Normandy, and 
 
 originator of the name of that 
 
 province, loi. 
 Roman coins in Scandinavia, 96. 
 Rosenborg, 158, 165, 171, 176. 
 Royal matches between England 
 
 and Denmark, 201. 
 Rungsted, 19. 
 
 Runic monuments, 104, etc. 
 destruction of, 118. ^ 
 
 Sacrilege at Trondena-s, 226. 
 Sagas, the, 48. 
 Saxo-Grammaticus, 61 ; his tomb, 
 
 222; his History of Denmark, 
 
 223. 
 Scandinavia. Denmark severed 
 
 from Norway and Sweden, 7. 
 vScandinavian names in England, 
 
 268. 
 Schleswig and Holstein, 8, 41. 
 Scrase, a Danish name, 269. 
 Sea ducks, 4. 
 
 Seal, the, becoming extinct, 195. 
 Shaksperian anachronism, 6. 
 Sigiuxl I., his pilgrimage to Jeru- 
 salem, etc., 55, 56. 
 Sigurd Ring's singular interment, 
 
 103. 
 Similarity of the languages of 
 
 England and Scandinavia, 235, 
 
 236. 
 Skager Rack and Cattegat, 4. 
 Slavery, suppression of, 66.
 
 282 
 
 Index. 
 
 Slotskirken, 156. 
 
 Snorro Sturleson, 48. 
 
 Soborg, 208. 
 
 Sodor and Man, bishop of. Origin 
 of the title, 57. 
 
 Sound, the, 19. 
 
 Stephens, Professor, 108. 
 
 Statuettes of Scandinavian gods and 
 heroes in bronze, and the wor- 
 ship of them in Norway, 26S. 
 
 Struensee beheaded, 38. 
 
 Sweden, beautiful views on the 
 shores of the Sound, ig. 
 
 Sweden, geographical features of, 
 etc., 59. 
 
 Swedes, the, desirous of learning 
 English, 27. 
 
 Surnames or nicknames of the 
 Danish kings, 198. 
 
 TABLE-D'iioTE at Copenhagen, 28, 
 
 29. 
 Things, the Danish parliament, 44, 
 
 45- 
 Thoro's Well, 121. 
 Thorvaldsen Museum, 71. 
 Tivoli Gardens, 156. 
 
 Tomb of Prince Magnus at Lewes, 
 
 Sussex, 64. 
 Tramways at Copenhagen, 175. 
 Trondemvjs, 224. 
 Tycho Brahe's Island, 20. 
 
 UrsAL.'\, temple at, 62. 
 
 Valdemeri.\n period, the, 32. 
 \'aldemar the Second, 33. 
 Valdcmar and his hounds, 209. 
 Vikings, the, 50. 
 Vor Frue Kirke and its statues, 
 
 158. 
 Voyage outward, 2. 
 
 War with England, 1807, 39. 
 Watchman's night-song, 246. 
 White stags, 207. 
 Wild animals in Norway, 46, 47. 
 Wood-carving, ancient, 130. 
 Wood-engraving at Copenhagen, 
 
 97- 
 Wooden churches in Scandinavia 
 and England, 216. 
 
 Zealand or Seeland, 204. 
 
 IIMVTI'Ii IIV T. AM) A. CONSTABLE, PRINTHRS Tl) IIK.i. MAII-STV, 
 AT THC EDINDURGH UNtVBRSITV PRESS 
 
 J
 
 Mav, 1874. 
 
 A Classified Catalogue of 
 
 Hemt S. King & Co.'s Publications. 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 TAGK 
 
 History and Biography . . . i 
 
 Voyages and Travel . . . . 4 
 
 SCIENXE 6 
 
 Essays, Lectures, and Collected 
 
 Papers 10 
 
 Military Works 11 
 
 India and the East . . . .14 
 
 Books for the Young, &c. 
 Works of Mr. Tennyson 
 
 Poetry 
 
 Fiction . .... 
 
 Cornhill Library of Fiction 
 Theological . . . . 
 Miscellaneous . . . . 
 
 PACK 
 
 . 16 
 
 HISTORY AND BIOGRAPHY. 
 
 AUTOBIOGRAPHY AND OTHER MEMORIALS OF MRS. 
 GILBERT, FORMERLY ANN TAYLOR. By Josiah. Gilbert, 
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 65, Corn /i ill ; 6^ 12, Paternoster Ro7v, London.
 
 1 8 Works Published by Henry S. King e- Co., 
 
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 Works PublisJicd by Henry S. King c^ Co., 19 
 
 WORKS BY ALFRED TENNYSON, D.CU 
 
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 THE CABINET EDITION. 
 
 Messrs. Henry S. King & Co. have the pleasure to announce that 
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 POETRY 
 
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 65, Corn/till ; 6* 12, Paternoster Ao7c, London.
 
 U^orks Published by Henry S. King o^ CV., 
 
 21 
 
 Poetry — continued. 
 
 COSMOS. A Poem. Small crown Svo. Price 
 
 Subject.— Nature in the Pa.st and in the 
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 NARCISSUS AND OTHER POEMS, 
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 THE INN OF STRANGE MEETINGS, 
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 CALDERON'S DRAMAS. Translated from 
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 SONGS FOR SAILORS. By Dr. W. C. 
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 WALLED IN, AND OTHER POEMS. 
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 "Genuine power displayed." — Exa- 
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 " Poetical feeling is manifest here, and 
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 65, Cornhill ; e^ 12, Paternoster Row, London.
 
 22 
 
 J Forks Published by Henry S. King d^ Co., 
 
 Poetry — continued. 
 
 SONGS OF lilFE AND DEATH. Bv 
 John Payne, Author of " Intaglios," 
 "Sonnets," "The Masque of Shadows," 
 etc. Crown Svo. 5J. 
 
 " The art of ballad-\vritin<; has long been 
 lost in England, and Mr. Payne may claim 
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 A NEW VOLUME OP SONNETS. By 
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 THE DREAM AND THE DEED, AND 
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 "A bitter and able satire on the vice 
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 GOETHE'S FAUST. A New Translation 
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 "No e.\tracts could do justice to the 
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 " A purity .and delicacy of feeling like 
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 SONGS OF TWO WORLDS. Second 
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 THE LEGENDS OP ST, PATRICK 
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 " We have but space to commend the 
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 FICTION. 
 
 AILEEN FERRERS. By Susan Morley. 
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 [Iiutiietiiately. 
 
 IDOLATRY. A Romance. By Julian 
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 VANESSA. By the Author of " Thomasina," 
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 ^TTDITH aWYNNE. By Llale Oarr. 
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 TOO LATE. 
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 LADY MORETOUNS DAUGHTER. 
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 MARGARET AND ELIZABETH. A 
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 and touching picture of homely happiness." 
 - Pall Mall Gazette. 
 
 65, Cornhill ; Cs^ 12, Paternoster Row, London,
 
 Works Published by Henry S. King &> Co., 
 
 23 
 
 Fiction — continued. 
 
 MR. CAEINGTON. A Tale of Love and 
 Conspiracy. 15y Robert Turner Cotton. 
 In 3 vols. Cloth, crown 8vo. 
 
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 TWO GIRLS. By Frederick Wedmore, 
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 THE QUEEN'S SHILLING. By Captain 
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 MIRANDA. A Midsummer M.adness. By 
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 THE PRINCESS CLARICE. A Story of 
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 REGINALD BRAMBLE. A Cynic of the 
 
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 — Hour. 
 
 EFPIE'S GAME; How she Lost and 
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 vols. 
 
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 CHESTERLEIGH. By Ansley Coayers. 
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 ERESSANT. A Romance. By Julian 
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 SEETA. By Colonel Meadows Taylor, 
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 WH.A.1: 'TIS TO LOVE. By the Author 
 of " Flora Adair," " The Value of Fosters- 
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 65, Cornhill ; &^ 12, Pakr nosier Row, London.
 
 24 
 
 IVoris Published by Henry S. King <^ Co., 
 
 FlCTlON- 
 
 HESTER MORIiETS PROMISE. V.\ 
 Hesba Stretton. 3 vols. 
 
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 " Mr. Hamilton Marshall can tell a story 
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 A GOOD MATCH. By Amelia Perrier, 
 
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 • — E-xamincr. 
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