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SKETCHES 
 
 A SOLDIER'S LIFE IN INDIA, 
 
 STAFF-SERGEANT THOMAS OUINNET, 
 
 HON. EAST INDIA COMPANY'S SERVICE. 
 
 GLASGOW: 
 
 DAVID ROBERTSON, BOOKSELLER TO HER MAJESTY. 
 
 EDINBURGH : OLIVER & BOYD. 
 
 MDCCCLIII. 
 
SKETCHES 
 
 OP 
 
 A SOLDIER'S LIEE IN INDIA, 
 
 Before proceeding to relate the following incidents 
 of a soldier's life in India, it may not be considered 
 superfluous to offer a few remarks relative to my 
 parentage, &e. 
 
 My father, John Quinney, is a native of the county 
 of Essex, England. He was a soldier in the Essex 
 or Burgoyne's Light Dragoons, and proceeded with 
 his regiment to Scotland about the year 1796. He 
 was quartered for some time at Haddington, where 
 he married my mother, a native of North Berwick, 
 in the county of Haddington. He subsequently 
 accompanied his regiment to Ireland at the time of 
 the Rebellion, and at the close of that eventful period 
 his regiment was disbanded. At the earnest entreaties 
 of my mother he returned to Scotland, and took up 
 his abode at North Berwick. I may here add that 
 he never afterwards left Scotland, with the exception 
 of about five years that he served in the Royal Navy, 
 into which he was pressed at a time when men were 
 much wanted. In the vicinity of the above mentioned 
 little town I was born in the year 1807. 
 B 
 
2 • - ; / , A/SQLDtESlS LIFE IN INDIA. 
 
 //•JCKef ii.^rii'e. Qiiitm.eiy.'ii^ay 'strike the reader as being 
 rather uncommon ; indeed, with the exception of 
 those in immediate connection with me by relation- 
 ship, I am not aware of any person of the name in 
 existence. However, I have succeeded in tracing it 
 as far back as Shakespeare's time, when I find it 
 used as the name of an individual who married the 
 bard's second daughter Judith ; and it is supposed that 
 we are all the offspring of this marriage, the truth of 
 which would appear to be partially borne out by the 
 fact that the name Judith is still retained in the family. 
 The scenes of my boyhood were such as are common 
 with others similarly situated, yet I possessed some 
 peculiarities of character. I was noted, for example, 
 amongst my companions, as being a most expert 
 climber of trees. There were none too lofty for 
 me to ascend. The highest in the neighbour- 
 hood had me frequently perched among their top- 
 most branches. Diminutive trees were beneath my 
 notice. I was also particularly partial to very aged 
 people, and nothing gave me more pleasure than to 
 assist them in any little way that lay in my power, 
 and to listen to their tales about the days of yore, 
 the strange dresses they wore in their youth, 
 &c. My ardour to assist the aged sometimes led me 
 to commit strange blunders. For instance,— seeing 
 one day an old woman struggling hard at a well to 
 raise a tub of water to her head, I ran to her 
 aid, and gave the tub an unguarded hoist which 
 brought it upon her head bottom upmost. It is need- 
 less to say that the poor creature was drenched to 
 the skin. 
 
 Being somewhat of a contemplative disposition, my 
 attention was much engaged in endeavouring to select 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 3 
 
 a trade or calling by which I might be enabled to 
 pass comfortably through the world, and secure a 
 competency for old age. This was not an easy 
 matter, as I had acquired a distaste for manual 
 labour, and felt a strong desire to see the world — 
 thinking, in spite of the oft-repeated proverb, "A 
 rolling stone gathers no moss," that visiting places 
 less densely peopled than my own country, would 
 probably afford additional facilities for acquiring the 
 bent of my inclinations. I had frequently noticed that 
 many who had laboured hard for a long series of years 
 were in anything but an enviable position, having too 
 frequently no other dependence, when the infirmities 
 of age obliged them to relinquish their accustomed 
 labour, than a small pittance from the parish. Not 
 but that I am disposed to come to the conclusion that 
 much of the poverty and consequent misery of the 
 working classes arises, in a great measure, from acts 
 of imprudence. With many the great end and aim is 
 present enjoyment, the future being considered so un- 
 important as to be worth comparatively little reflec- 
 tion. This is a circumstance which has not failed to 
 arrest the notice and occupy the attention of some of 
 our most eminent philanthropists. They see and they 
 deplore that while health and strength remain, the 
 working classes, with a few exceptions, recklessly 
 spend their earnings, making no provision whatever 
 for the future. And, again, in the higher walks of 
 life, we find old age clinging with a death-like 
 grasp to wealth, as though the period usually 
 allotted to human life had just commenced, instead 
 of drawing towards its close. But without further 
 digression I proceed with my narrative. 
 
 I had by this time come to the determination of 
 
4 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 entering the army, calculating that, by this step, I 
 should both be in a position to gratify my taste for 
 sight-seeing, and also to secure a provision for my 
 declining years. 
 
 Matters of a nature it is unnecessary here to men- 
 tion, prevented me following the bent of my inclina- 
 tion so early as I could have wished ; but fortune at 
 length opened up a favourable opportunity, of which 
 I eagerly availed myself. Leaving the place which 
 gave me birth, I wended my way to Edinburgh, on 
 the 28th September, 1826. Having rested and re- 
 freshed myself that night, I proceeded the following 
 morning to the High Street, where I found soldiers 
 from the various regiments recruiting. I felt rather 
 diffident in making known my intentions, but I at 
 last threw aside my reserve, and agreed to join the 
 Honourable East India Company's service. I was at 
 once marched off to the sergeant, who put me through 
 a summary examination, and then placed in my hand 
 the lucky shilling. We next adjourned to a public 
 house, where I was introduced to a number of young 
 men similarly situated, and who I was given to un- 
 derstand were to be my future companions in arms. 
 Many of these young men belonged to Edinburgh and 
 Glasgow, and consequently possessed a degree of low 
 cunning to which I was a stranger. They soon dis- 
 covered that I was not without money, which they 
 made me launch out pretty freely, in the shape, as 
 they were pleased to term it, of paying my footing. 
 
 On the following morning I was taken before the 
 surgeon, and thence to the magistrate, where I was 
 sworn in to serve His Majesty and the Honourable 
 East India Company. By this time I had just seen 
 enough of my new companions to teacli me the 
 
necessity of keeping as much aloof, from at least 
 some of them, as possible. However, it was neces- 
 sary that I should choose a comrade, and this I did 
 by selecting an individual whom I will introduce 
 to the reader under the designation of my chum 
 Jamie. Be it here understood that Jamie was a 
 married man, and having enlisted as such, his wife was, 
 as a matter of course, allowed to accompany him to 
 India, — a limited number of married men, without 
 families, being admitted into this service by pro- 
 ducing, at the time of the enlistment, a legal marriage 
 certificate. But it too frequently occurs that these 
 men, perhaps through some quarrel with their wives, 
 deny the fact of their being married to the enlisting 
 party. Hence often misery and vexation follow, for 
 the men soon relent and send for their wives ; or 
 the wives come of their own accord, when they find 
 to their sorrow that they cannot be allowed to join 
 their husbands, who, having enlisted as single men, 
 must as such be held good to the service. The pre- 
 scribed number of married men being kept up in the 
 legal form by the recruiting officers, puts it out of 
 the power of the commanding officer to assist persons 
 in such a position. 
 
 Some days after my initiation into the army, I 
 met, by mere chance, with an old sweetheart, and, as 
 absence is said to make affection stronger, we natu- 
 rally became more and more attached to each other. 
 A week or so elapsed before I could muster sufficient 
 courage to acquaint her that I was now a soldier, and 
 when I did so, she wept most bitterly. Seeing her 
 in such distress I was moved to tears also. When she 
 became somewhat more calm, I inquired if she would 
 go abroad with me ; to which she readily assented, by 
 
 b2 
 
6 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 saying she was willing to travel the wide world with 
 me, in an honourable way. To be married was now 
 the order of the day. My chum Jamie came forward 
 and was willing to assist me in any shape, either 
 legal or illegal ; and as he was taking a wife with 
 him, I foolishly thought that I could do the same. I 
 was aware that to succeed we must keep our design 
 from the knowledge of her relations. No time was 
 to be lost, as we did not know the hour when we 
 might be ordered to embark for the depot. Nothing 
 could be done without money. I knew I could ob- 
 tain some by returning home; so for that purpose 
 I set out early in the morning, and wended my way 
 through the streets of Edinburgh, while the police 
 were calling out, " Four o'clock, and a starry morn- 
 ing!" I proceeded merrily along the road, and 
 reached home just in time to prevent my father start- 
 ing off in search of me, as a report had reached him 
 that I was enlisted. However, I soon put this all to 
 rights by practising a little deception. Having ob- 
 tained the money I required, I felt (as love has no 
 bounds) all anxiety to take the road again ; but be- 
 fore doing so I took a last and farewell look of all 
 the favourite retreats where I used to sport and play 
 in my earlier days. I also took a secret last look of 
 all my relations, and more especially of my sister-in- 
 law, who was a most amiable young woman, and from 
 whom I had at this time received the m^oney. 
 
 On arriving at Edinburgh I hastened to my Cather- 
 ine (that was her name), and informed her of my 
 success. Everything now appeared to go on smoothly ; 
 but, alas! the old proverb, "The course of true love 
 never did run smooth," was verified in this instance. 
 Just as our hopes were about to be consummated, our 
 
A soldier's life m india. 7 
 
 plot was discovered by her relations, and they, being 
 aware that I would soon be required to join the 
 depot, used every effort to prevent the slightest com- 
 munication between us. However, the day prior to 
 my leaving for Chatham, I received an intimation from 
 her friends requesting that I would wait upon them. 
 It may be readily conjectured that I was not slow in 
 availing myself of this invitation. On reaching their 
 residence I found my Catherine surrounded by ten or 
 twelve of her relatives and friends. Some time 
 elapsed ere silence was broken. At last her mother 
 remarked that had I not been enlisted she should not 
 have entertained the slightest objection to our union, 
 and concluded her observations by saying that as her 
 daughter had expressed a sincere wish to see me for 
 the last time, they had thought it prudent so far to 
 comply with her request. I instantly sprung to my 
 feet, and said that if such was the case, the sooner 
 such a painful scene was over the better. Catherine 
 also started up, and said that she wished to speak 
 with me in private ; but as this was not granted, I 
 held out my hand, and received hers, which was as 
 cold as clay. She then staggered, and fell into the 
 arms of her friends, and in another moment I was in 
 the open street. Here I must leave her for the pre- 
 sent, but as she is a prominent person in this narra- 
 tive, she will in due time reappear. 
 
 The day following this adventure I embarked on 
 board a Leith smack for the depot, and, as the reader 
 may believe, not one of the happiest of mortals. No- 
 thing worthy of note occurred during the passage, 
 except that it proved a very stormy one ; and, 
 although of only six days' duration, I suffered more 
 in that short time than ever I did afterwards at sea. 
 
8 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 The whole of the bulwarks, and everything on deck 
 to the leeward, was carried away in one night. This 
 was certainly sufficient to " daunten" the spirit of one 
 just entering the service ; but not so with me, for my 
 mind was so determined in the matter that it never 
 for a moment wavered. 
 
 However, I got safely landed at the depot, where 
 I soon got rigged out in my regimentals, and com- 
 menced drill, the thing I had long wished for. I had 
 often heard it said that it was difficult to learn the 
 drill, but in this I was very agreeably disappointed. 
 I felt no difficulty in it whatever ; in fact it was to 
 me mere child's play; and I am disposed to think 
 every one will find it equally easy who devotes any- 
 thing like ordinary attention to it. The daily drill 
 never exceeded three hours, and often was far short 
 of that time. I cannot see how any man accustomed to 
 labour can complain that the duties of a soldier are 
 hard. If he would only balance the ten hours' labour 
 with the three hours' drill, he would soon see that 
 he has no reason to complain. Besides, if he would 
 consider how much cleaner he is obUged to keep him- 
 self than the labouring man, and the excellent treat- 
 ment be receives in case of sickness, he would at 
 once see that the difference is all in favour of the 
 soldier. The longer I remained in the depot the 
 better I liked the service. I took great pride in 
 keeping myself clean, which is at all times the prin- 
 cipal part of a soldier's duty. 
 
 Somewhere about six weeks after my arrival at 
 Chatham, a detachment was placed under orders for 
 Bombay. I was not included in the list, but my 
 chum Jamie was ; and neither having a wish to be 
 separated, he entreated me to use my best endeavours 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 to get out with him. I was perfectly at a loss to 
 know how I could succeed in doing so, but Jamie, who 
 was never short of a device, hastened off with me to 
 the sergeant-major, and represented to him that I 
 was his half-brother. This being believed, I was told 
 to hold myself in readiness ; and, at the same time, 
 the sergeant-major kindly remarked that he had no 
 wish to separate comrades, much less brothers, if he 
 could help it. 
 
 The sergeant of my company appeared somewhat 
 annoyed when he learned that I was under orders for 
 embarkation, hinting that he intended me to remain 
 at the depot for some time, adding that I would be 
 promoted to be a corporal immediately, and he hoped 
 that I would take care of myself. I was more than 
 surprised at this intimation, as I had never dreamed 
 of such a thing, and said, " But, sergeant, I will not 
 know what to do as a corporal." " Oh," he replied, 
 " we will tell you." My ignorance of a military life 
 at this time led me to believe that something of more 
 than ordinary importance was attached to that rank 
 in the service. The order appointing me corporal 
 was confirmed on parade the same evening. I now 
 thought myself of some importance. As soon as I 
 was dismissed I hastened to the sergeant, and in- 
 quired what I was to do now? "Oh," said he, "go 
 to the tailor's shop, and have the stripes put on." 
 This order I quickly obeyed, and again presented 
 myself before him, and made my former inquiry. I 
 was simply told to do as I had done before, and when 
 my services were required I should be sent for. I 
 now strutted into the town as proud as a peacock, and 
 enjoyed myself with some old corporals, thinking, at the 
 same time, that I was as good a soldier as any of them. 
 
10 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 The essential points in the young soldier's conduct 
 should be obedience, temperance, and cleanliness, 
 and with these everything else will follow. The 
 moment he is dismissed from one parade he 
 should clean and prepare all his appointments for 
 the next. His mind is then perfectly free from 
 uneasiness, knowing, that when a call is made, 
 he is ready. Nothing more denotes a slovenly soldier 
 than to see him cleaning his appointments about half 
 an hour or an hour before the time appointed for 
 turning out to parade. He should keep aloof from 
 the society of those who entertain no respect for their 
 own characters. It has too frequently occurred that 
 young soldiers have been led from the path of virtue 
 to that of vice, and their future prospects totally 
 blasted, by inattention to this very important point. 
 It is an easy matter to take up with bad companions, 
 but it is not so easy to get rid of them. He should 
 bear in mind that the army is composed of men of 
 every variety of temper and disposition, more especi- 
 ally the Honourable East India Company's service; 
 for there you may find men who have been connected 
 with almost every trade or profession, from the 
 mason's labourer up to those who have been intended 
 for the study of medicine, law, and even divinity. 
 These intended professional men may be divided into 
 three classes, namely, those who have been compelled 
 to enlist through their own imprudence, in recklessly 
 squandering away the means they may have possessed; 
 secondly, those whom adversity may have deprived of 
 means, without any imprudence on their own parts ; 
 and lastly, (by far the smallest number,) those who are 
 led to embrace a military life from mere inclination, or 
 from their parents attempting to force professions upon 
 
b 
 
 A soldier's life in INDIA. 11 
 
 them for wliich they had no desire, or saw clearly they 
 could not follow out with comfort or credit to themselves. 
 Now, out of these various characters, it is almost 
 necessary that the recruit should select a comrade to 
 instruct him how to pack his knapsack, clean his ap- 
 pointments, &c. He will find many ready to assist 
 him, as they know that he has something coming in 
 the shape of balance of bounty, out of which they ex- 
 pect a "spree ;" but he should select one better, or at 
 least as good as himself. The young soldier, instead 
 of spending his money in taverns, would serve his 
 own interests better were he to save all he could 
 spare while in England, for he will find on his arrival 
 in India that he has another kit to furnish, and one, 
 too, that he will be proud of. Fine white jackets, 
 trousers, and a host of other articles, he must have, 
 before he can appear on a level with those who have 
 been in the country years before him. Sovereigns 
 are the best coin to take to India, as they frequently 
 bring at the rate of twenty-two shillings each. 
 
 The stafi-sergeants at the depot are at all times a 
 very superior class of men, and always evince a 
 strong desire to assist the young soldier with good 
 advice. There is a good school and a library for the 
 use of the men, so that they have every facility for 
 improving themselves, both in education and habits. 
 
 The following is a list of necessaries supplied to 
 each recruit at the depot, and paid for out of his 
 bounty, with the price of each article : — 
 
 Knapsack, complete, , £0 9 
 
 Canteen, with straps, , , 13 
 
 4 Shirts, at 2s l|d each, 8 5 
 
 2 Pairs Stockings, at Is 6|d, 3 1^ 
 
 1 Pair of Boots, 6 9 
 
 2 Towels, at 4d each, , 8 
 
12 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 1 Pair Braces, £0 1 3 
 
 3 Shoe Brushes, at 6d, 16 
 
 1 Clothes Brush, 7 
 
 1 Hair do., 6 
 
 1 Button do., and Button Stick, 6 
 
 Holdall, 61 
 
 Kazor, 1 4| 
 
 Piece of Soap and Shaving Brush, 4^ 
 
 Sponge, 3^ 
 
 Knife, Fork, and Spoon, 7i 
 
 2 Tin Plates, 7^ 
 
 1 Box of Blacking, 4 
 
 1 Pair Mitts, 7^ 
 
 Altering and Marking Clothing, 3 
 
 1 Pair Cloth Trousers, 7 2 
 
 Total, £2 8 5^ 
 
 Besides the above, each man is supposed to have a 
 small box to contain his necessaries, which costs 
 about five shillings. 
 
 Articles supplied to the recruit free of expense : — 
 1 Regimental Jacket, Blue for Artillery and Red for 
 Infantry. 
 
 1 Drill Jacket. 
 
 2 Flannel Shirts. 
 
 2 Pairs Flannel Drawers. 
 
 1 Pair Grey Trousers. 
 
 2 Pairs White Trousers. 
 1 Forage Cap. 
 
 1 Stock and Clasp. 
 1 Set of Combs. 
 1 Pair Boots, 
 1 Pair of Stockings. 
 1 Pair of Gloves. 
 
 We left the depot and marched for Gravesend in 
 the middle of December, 1826, preparatory to em- 
 barking for India. We saw many strange scenes 
 while marching through Chatham — girls running 
 into the ranks kissing their sweethearts, and handing 
 
13 
 
 them small keepsakes, thus taking a hasty but long 
 farewell. A number of these poor girls accompanied 
 us to Gravesend, where they witnessed with sorrow 
 the embarkation of those who were either near or 
 dear to them. 
 
 When we leaped on the deck of the ship, which. 
 Providence permitting, was destined to convey us to 
 Bombay, there was a hammock put into the one hand, 
 and a bag into the other, of each of us. The latter 
 contained everything that we were likely to require 
 during the voyage, such as tea, tobacco, soap, black- 
 ing, combs and brushes, together with smockfrocks, 
 canvas trousers, checked shirts, &c. There were 
 many bumboats around the vessel, ready to buy up, 
 clandestinely, such of the above articles as any one 
 might be foolish enough to part with. Tea and to- 
 bacco were chiefly in demand with these bumboat 
 people. It so turned out that we did not require the 
 former article, as we were well supplied with that 
 beverage from the ship, and as for the latter, I did 
 not use it. Yet I would strongly advise the soldier 
 to keep every article that is served out to him, for in 
 the course of events it often happens that what he 
 has disposed of becomes most in request; besides, 
 if there was not a probability of his requiring the 
 whole he receives, they would not be served out to 
 him. There were fourteen or fifteen married men 
 amongst us, whose wives stored up a good supply of 
 the surplus tea. Many of them, no doubt, had enough 
 to serve them for months after their arrival in India. 
 As soon as we all got safe on board we were 
 divided into messes of thirteen or fourteen men, 
 and told off to berths accordingly — each mess being 
 supplied with a small keg to contain the daily allow- 
 c 
 
14 A SOLDIER'S LIFE IN INDIA. 
 
 ance of water, and a trencher to contain the daily 
 rations. A cook and cook's mate were appointed to 
 cook for the whole, and a mess orderly was selected 
 daily, by rotation, from each mess, to draw the rations 
 from the ship's steward, prepare them for the cook, 
 and act as scullion for the day. Our rations con- 
 sisted principally of salt beef and pork, of the very 
 best quality, and more than we could consume, to- 
 gether with plum-pudding and pea- soup, and tea and 
 biscuit morning and evening. We also received 
 two allowances of grog per day, consisting of one 
 glass of very fine old Jamaica rum, cold water, 
 sugar, and lime-juice. In a word, we were treated 
 as men ought to be. We were also told off into three 
 watches, with the view of giving us four hours o]i 
 deck and eight hours below, more for the purpose of 
 preventing us from being too much crowded under 
 decks than for any duty we had to perform. The 
 order to stand watch soon ceased to be enforced, for 
 as soon as we got into a warm climate many pre- 
 ferred being on deck to being below; besides, those 
 who assisted the sailors during a storm were gener- 
 ally rewarded with an extra glass of grog. There 
 were too manv amongst us who would haVe taken a 
 wet skin at any time for a glass of rum. A fatigue 
 party was warned every fourth or fifth day to scrub 
 the deck below, and sprinkle and fumigate it with 
 vinegar, during which operation all were ordered 
 upon deck, and none allowed to go below until the 
 place was properly cleaned out and well aired. 
 
 We were all rather dull in spirits for some time, 
 owing to the prevalence of sea-sickness, but after 
 crossing the Bay of Biscay, where we experienced 
 very severe weather, our spirits became reinvigorated, 
 
A soldier's life m india. 15 
 
 and we set to work in various ways to while away the 
 tediousness of the voyage, which becomes exceedingly 
 monotonous, having nothing to look upon but the wild 
 and pathless ocean. We had in our number some ten 
 or twelve musicians, who entertained us with music on 
 the quarterdeck every evening. Dancing accompan- 
 ied the harmony, in which some of the men's wives 
 were not backward in taking part. A few gave 
 recitations, others told comical stories, whilst here 
 and there might be seen small groups playing at 
 various games. 
 
 In all communities, however limited, there are 
 generally strange characters to be found, and I can 
 assure the reader we were not without them. One 
 in particular, (an Irishman of course,) contributed in 
 no small degree to our stock of mirth. His remark- 
 ably broad humorous face, which possessed the pe- 
 culiarity of being spotted all over, as though a bran 
 bag had been shaken over it, whilst in a high state of 
 perspiration, combined with a small protuberance in the 
 form of a nose, and sharp twinkling eyes peering 
 from beneath his massy eyebrows, formed a most 
 ludicrous countenance, more readily conceived than 
 described. His acquaintance with the English lan- 
 guage was very limited, even to a few words, and, 
 strange to say, these were of a grossly obscene char- 
 acter. Being remonstrated with, on account of his 
 uncleanly habits, by the .officer in command, he re- 
 plied by one of his usual very indecent answers. He 
 was instantly ordered to be made a prisoner ; but, on 
 the nature of the man's ignorance being fiilly explained, 
 other questions w^ere put to him, to which he gave 
 worse answers, and he was ultimately dismissed, 
 amidst shouts of laughter, in which the officers could 
 
16 A soldier's life m india. 
 
 not help joining. The chief mate, who understood 
 Irish, and could the better appreciate this man's wit, 
 had him sent for to his cabin, where he rigged him 
 out with a cocked hat, long-tailed blue naval uniform 
 coat, and knee breeches. After this he was seen par- 
 ading the decks every afternoon, attired in his new 
 uniform, dancing, singing, and cutting a variety of 
 capers, to the no small amusement of his comrades. 
 
 Another sample of the kind was frequently found 
 dressed in a sailor's pea-jacket, with his head en- 
 veloped in a south-wester. The former, he jocosely 
 remarked, fitted him too much, for it was like a shirt 
 upon a handspike ; but to make up for the deficiency, 
 he padded himself in front to an enormous extent, 
 remarking that a captain, to be strictly in character, 
 should carry before him a big belly. This individual 
 was frequently seen upon the poop personating, in a 
 very creditable manner, the captain himself, and as- 
 suming very strange airs, as though the vessel were 
 left to his entire control ; but when the captain hap- 
 pened to make his appearance, he would beat a retreat 
 to the wheel, and pretend that he w^as assisting the 
 "steersman, and there he would remain, making a 
 variety of grimaces to all his comrades who looked 
 at him. I might mention other characters who took 
 an active part in amusing us ; but, suffice it to say, 
 that we were kept in some kind of merriment or 
 other during the whole voyage. 
 
 I soon became a tolerably good sailor, and found 
 myself quite at home on board ship. I was never 
 slack at lending the sailors a hand, through which I 
 became a kind of general favourite, and got, in con- 
 sequence, many an extra glass of rum from the mate. 
 Although I cared nothing about it at the time, yet I 
 
A soldier's life in ixdia. 17 
 
 could appreciate the kindness of the gentleman who 
 gave it me. There was an order issued against any 
 of us climbing the rigging, which was a great draw- 
 back to my roaming propensities. The punishment 
 for this offence was to stop the offender's grog, or 
 send the sailors aloft to make him fast to the rigging, 
 and keep him there for at least a couple of hours. 
 Notwithstanding all this, the foretop was a favourite 
 retreat of mine, where I often sat or lay reading a 
 book for hours together, without any notice being 
 taken of me ; but on one occasion I ventured up into 
 the maintop^ where I was observed by the second 
 mate, who sent the sailors aloft to make me fast to 
 the rigging. But in place of endeavouring to come 
 down, I went upwards. When the mate saw this, he 
 ordered them down, and at the same time called out 
 to me that if I would go up and turn the vane he 
 should forgive me. This I succeeded in doing, but I 
 must admit that I found it a more difficult task than 
 I imagined ; and when I returned on deck I was re- 
 warded with a glass of rum, accompanied vrith an 
 admonition not to be so daring in future. 
 
 By this time we were enjoying fine warm weather, 
 and a number of the men threw their hammocks over- 
 board, thinking no doubt that, as they were going to 
 a warm country, they would not require them any 
 more. Or perhaps they thought it too much trouble 
 to be carrying them up every morning and stowing 
 them away in the hammock nettings, and again taking 
 them down in the evening. But be this as it may, 
 these careless fellows paid for their folly ; for we again 
 got into very cold weather, and these men had not a 
 blanket to cover themselves. The result was that 
 they commenced stealing their comrades' bedding, and 
 c2 
 
18 A soldier's life m ikdta. 
 
 as few had either their hammock or blankets marked, 
 therewas no detecting the thieves. Oneverycold night 
 I had occasion to go on deck, and when I returned I 
 found my hammock minus its contents. I knew that 
 there was no use making a noise about it, as they were 
 not marked, so I crept quietly into the empty shell, 
 and lay shivering with cold for some time. At last I 
 observed a person turn out and go upon deck. In an 
 instant I was up, and had the contents of his ham- 
 mock transferred to my o^Yn, and was snug amongst 
 his bedding by the time he returned. But he was not 
 so calm as I was, for he made a great work about his 
 severe loss ; in fact, he alarmed the whole ship, but 
 it was all to no purpose, for, like myself, he had none 
 of his bedding marked. I must confess that I had 
 some remorse of conscience while I heard him railing 
 against the thief; but I consoled myself by thinking 
 that I had only done that which had been done to me. 
 This is not good morality. We must not render evil 
 for evil ; and although such conduct was very natural, 
 perhaps it should not be published. Hence the ne- 
 cessity of having every article well marked ; which 
 would not only prevent thieving, but also many dis- 
 putes, for as everything is of one uniform pattern, 
 there is no telling the property of one from that of 
 another. 
 
 Shark fishing took up a considerable portion of our 
 attention. These sea monsters are not easily caught, 
 as they are shy in taking the bait; yet we succeeded 
 in capturing a good many of them. Our mode of 
 procedure was to bait a large hook, about as thick as 
 a person's finger, with two or three pounds of beef, 
 and suspend it over the ship's stern. On one occasion 
 we took a very large one, and when it was brought 
 
A soldier's life m india. 19 
 
 upon deck it bit at everything just like a dog. It 
 was so furious that one of the sailors ran a cutlass 
 into it, when out sprang a beautiful little reddish 
 coloured fish from its mouth, which jumped about the 
 deck so nimbly that it took some trouble to catch it. 
 This is what is commonly called the shark's pilot ; 
 but I have observed that the shark has more than 
 one of these little fish following him. I have lain for 
 hours out on the main-chains, watching the move- 
 ments of these sea monsters, when the vessel was 
 becalmed, for it is only then they can be seen to 
 advantage. They would dodge about the ship, 
 apparently with all the slyness of a thief, moving 
 slowly and smoothly from one part of the ship to 
 another. Here I have seen three or four of these 
 small fish called pilots following one shark ; and 
 when the least noise was made, by throwing anything 
 into the water, they would spring into the monster's 
 mouth. 
 
 Another amusement in which we occasionally in- 
 dulged was catching albatrosses, large birds, which 
 measure seven or eight feet from tip to tip of 
 the wings, and which are frequently found some hun- 
 dreds of miles from land. They also were caught 
 with the hook and bait, attached to a long line ; and 
 so numerous were they that I have seen us take 
 them as fast as we could let out and draw in the line. 
 This would appear to be heartless sport, as the alba- 
 tross is not fit for human food ; but what will people 
 not do to while away the tedium of a long voyage ? 
 Cape pigeons are often taken by baiting a small hook. 
 Shoals of flying fish may be seen, springing out of 
 the water, when pursued by the boneta, albecore, and 
 other fish. These latter are occasionally caught, 
 
20 
 
 but tliey are a dry eating fish. Whales and porpoises 
 are frequently seen. 
 
 Towards the close of a Calm and most beautiful 
 day, somewhere off the Cape of Good Hope, we were 
 alarmed by the captain bawling out, at the top of his 
 voice, "All hands shorten sail!" The sailors were 
 instantly at their work, and every arrangement made 
 to secure the safety of the ship. The storm by this 
 time had reached us, and the sea began to run moun- 
 tains high. The thunder rolled, the lightning flashed, 
 and the rain came down in torrents. Nearly all the 
 soldiers deserted the decks, and the wind increased to 
 a perfect hurricane. I remained up, and assisted the 
 sailors, until about midnight ; but in consequence of 
 the extreme motion of the vessel, I had met with 
 several heavy falls on the deck, which induced me to 
 think that I would be better in my hammock. I 
 managed with some difficulty to get below, where all 
 was darkness, and the men's clothes boxes, having 
 broken loose, were flying about in all directions, so 
 that I was in danger of getting my legs broken by 
 coming in contact with them. How;ever, I succeeded 
 in getting into my hammock; but what with the 
 roaring of the wind, the noise of the waves, and the 
 creaking and straining of the ship, together with 
 women screaming, men praying, others cursing and 
 swearing, sleep was out of the question ; in fact I 
 would have gladly returned upon deck but for fear of 
 the boxes, which were now rolling about in greater 
 numbers. At last a tremendous crash took place. 
 Every one thought that the ship was in pieces. The 
 tumult that ensued beggars all description ; indeed it 
 would be worse than folly for me to attempt to 
 describe what I heard at this period. After the 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 21 
 
 tumult a dead silence ensued, which I believed was 
 caused by every one wondering why the water was 
 not beginning to overwhelm them. The reader may 
 easily conceive how gratifying it was to us when we 
 came to know that the ship was all secure, and that 
 the cause of our alarm had only been the shifting of 
 some of the cargo, from the extreme motion of the 
 vessel. As soon as day dawned I jumped out of my 
 hammock, and went on deck. The wind had fallen 
 a little, but the sea was frightful to look at, and 
 all around bore a most gloomy and dismal appearance. 
 The sailors, poor fellows, were perfectly exhausted. 
 No one but those* who have witnessed it can form 
 anything like an adequate idea of what seamen 
 suffer in stormy weather. As the day advanced the 
 wind abated, and to our unspeakable joy we soon 
 found ourselves in a tolerably calm sea. Every 
 soldier and sailor was served with an extra glass of 
 grog, the storm was all forgotten, and we were as 
 happy as ever. 
 
 The system of selling grog commenced amongst 
 us, which led to cases of drunkenness, and conse- 
 quently to quarrelling and fighting. To prevent these 
 evils the captain gave an order that every man should 
 be caused to drink his liquor the moment it was 
 served out to him, and on no account be allowed to 
 carry it away. The women who were also allowed 
 grog were compelled to consume theirs in a similar 
 manner. However, all who did not wish to drink 
 spirits, had the alternative of throwing their allowance 
 overboard, or it would be done for them. At the same 
 time it was intimated, in the strongest terms, that 
 the first persons caught fighting should be flogged. 
 I may here mention that porter is now substituted in 
 
22 A soldier's life IX IXDIA. 
 
 place of ram, which must be a great boon, as nothing 
 is more refreshing after a salt dinner than a draught 
 of this wholesome beverage. I am also credibly 
 informed that every detachment of recruits proceed- 
 ing to India are now accommodated with a library. 
 
 But to return to my narrative. All seemed to go 
 on smoothly for a time. Drunkenness and fighting 
 happily disappeared. However, we were destined to 
 have one more fistic exhibition. A quarrel having 
 taken place between a young man named Murchie (a 
 Glasgow chap), and the cook, led to a regular set-to. 
 The latter was much the superior man in point of 
 physical strength; but Murchie* appeared to have 
 made good use of his time, in making himself some- 
 what proficient in the low science of blackening eyes 
 and bleeding noses, which is at all times taught gratis 
 (Sundays not excepted), in the Saltmarket and Bridge- 
 gate. He made strange havoc upon the poor cook's 
 frontispiece, leaving there stamped receipts which pro- 
 bably this side of the grave would never thoroughly 
 erase. The cook's mate, not much relishing the idea 
 of his chum being defeated, kindly consented to put 
 the finishing touch on Sandy. A second fight ensued, 
 which proved to be a more arduous contest than the 
 first. At last the mate showed evident symptoms of 
 lagging, Murchie's Saltmarket greeting propensities 
 being too much for him also. But just as Murchie 
 was about to claim the victory, in popped the ofiicer, 
 in the capacity of thirds-man, and kindly undertook 
 to settle the affair, by ordering all three aft for a 
 three dozen each, in the way of a cooler. Murchie, 
 on hearing his doom, instantly stripped, to receive 
 the first dose. Some delay ensued in getting a per- 
 son to act as drummer, the boatswain not being 
 
23 
 
 allowed to punish, lest it should cause an ill feeling 
 between the soldiers and the crew. During this time 
 Sandy was calling out, "Come along! What are you 
 afraid of? Flog away; don't keep a person in sus- 
 pense here all day!" At last the person so addressed, 
 standing with the cats trembling in his hand, put 
 Murchie through the operation without hurting his 
 back much. The next in succession was the cook. 
 Here another delay ensued ; when Sandy bawled out, 
 " I will flog him," and sprung forward, seized the 
 lash, and was ready to operate upon his antagonist a 
 second time. This would not be allowed, and 
 Murchie went away muttering something about tak- 
 ing other three dozen to be permitted to have a few 
 more cracks at the cook's mate. However, the other 
 two eventually received their quantum, without being 
 much hurt. Paltry as this punishment was, it had a 
 salutary effect, as we had little or no more quarrel- 
 ling during the remainder of the voyage. 
 
 We lay about a month becalmed, under the line, 
 with the sea as smooth as glass, and the ship perfectly 
 motionless. Nothing can be more oppressive upon 
 the spirits than to be thus situated ; for every one 
 must know that nothing but utter destruction is 
 before them, should Providence not be pleased to send 
 a favourable breeze to w^aft them to their destination. 
 No communication can reach a friendly shore ; all 
 hope of a supply of provisions is cut off, and those in 
 store must soon become exhausted. Morning after 
 morning the first question was, " Is there no wind 
 yet?" No, the sails are still hanging dead against 
 the masts, without a breath of air to put them in 
 motion. The captain at this time got a little 
 alarmed, and put us all on short allowance of water; 
 
24 A soldier's life IX INDIA. 
 
 but this only continued for a few days. Providence 
 ever proving kind, a breeze set in at last, vi^hicli 
 relieved us of all anxiety. The system of shaving, 
 as generally practised on crossing the line, was pro- 
 posed, but the captain would not allow it, lest it 
 should lead to quarrelling. The temperature here 
 was not so intensely hot as I anticipated ; indeed I 
 did not sustain the slightest inconvenience from it. 
 
 There is perhaps nothing on earth that strikes the 
 beholder with greater admiration than the rising and 
 setting of the sun in these regions of the deep. I 
 am sorry that it is not in my power to convey any- 
 thing like an idea of the beauty and grandeur here 
 displayed. Indeed, I question very much if any pen, 
 however able, is capable of describing the magnifi- 
 cence attending the rising and setting of the great 
 luminary of day. It is almost worth a voyage 
 across the Atlantic to witness this most gorgeous 
 scene. 
 
 One fine afternoon, as the ship was sailing before 
 the wind, at the rate of about six or seven knots an 
 hour, and as I Avas stretched out on the main-chains, 
 amusing myself watching the water, with any little 
 specks upon it, passing the ship's side, I was alarmed 
 by observing a man pass close under the chains, 
 swimming on his back, and holding a blanket in one 
 hand. In an instant 1 jumped to my feet, and 
 bawled out "A man overboard!" The sailmaker, 
 with a prompt presence of mind, threw a form over 
 the side, on which he was sitting mending sails. A 
 more exciting scene than that which now ensued can 
 scarcely be imagined. The noble bearing of the 
 captain in issuing his commands, the promptitude 
 with which the hardy tars obeyed them, the ready 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 25 
 
 manner in which the stately ship was brought to, 
 the lowering away of the boat, &c., together with the 
 extreme excitement of all on board, created within 
 me a feeling of the highest admiration. The poor 
 fellow by this time was so far astern that he could be 
 but faintly seen when he rose upon the top of a wave. 
 However, the sailmaker s form assisted materially in 
 pointing out his whereabouts, as it lay in the water 
 with the feet upwards. Of course the men in the 
 boat could see nothing of him, but the captain stood 
 on the poop with his speaking trumpet, and directed 
 their course; and, to do them justice, they pulled as 
 it were between life and death. The boat reached 
 him just as he was struggling to lay hold of the form, 
 for it would appear that he never observed it till 
 then, and he was brought safe on board, but in so 
 exhausted a state that he w^as bleeding at both nose 
 and mouth. He had been at the head, washing a 
 blanket, when he slipped, and fell into the sea. A 
 number of the men washed their own clothes, but the 
 women often had their tubs on deck, washing for all 
 who thought proper to pay them. My chum Jamie's 
 wife acted the part of a sister to me in this respect. 
 
 All hands were mustered every Sunday morning, 
 weather permitting, to hear divine service performed 
 by the officer in command, there being no chaplain 
 on board. The Roman Catholics, on these occasions, 
 retired to the far end of the vessel, as if they had 
 been afraid to hear the Word of God uttered by any 
 other lips than those of their own priests. 
 
 I am now drawing near a close with my account of 
 the voyage out. We were all, with one or two 
 exceptions, in excellent health, with not a single case 
 of scurvy amongst us. We were w^ell supplied with 
 
 D 
 
26 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 vinegar and mustard, which no doubt assisted in 
 keeping away this malady. In my solitary moments 
 I thought much about the East Indies, and, like 
 others similarly situated, I had heard many old 
 women's stories at home about the pestilence and 
 war of that country, which led me to form anything 
 but a favourable opinion of it; besides, we had an 
 individual on board who had previously served in 
 India, and this person took a pride in getting a num- 
 ber of us seated around him on the forecastle, of a 
 night, where he would relate the most horrible stories 
 about the country that his imagination could invent. 
 These statements were all believed by me at the 
 time, and it was only subsequent experience which 
 taught me that they were totally unfounded. He 
 might have indulged in these stories for his own 
 amusement, and to get up a laugh at our expense 
 for being so easily imposed upon ; but, be this as it 
 may, I know that he wrought my feelings up to such 
 a pitch that I did not expect to live a week after 
 my arrival. 
 
 We were, at last, very agreeably surprised by the 
 man, on the look-out, at the mast head calling out, 
 •'Land ahead!" These words ran through the ship 
 like wildfire; every one was on deck in an instant, to 
 see the land of our destination. The second mate 
 went aloft with his glass, and when he returned he 
 reported to the captain that Bombay was right ahead. 
 All eyes were now strained in that direction for more 
 than half an hour, but no land was to be seen. At 
 length we observed hills and trees. We were all in the 
 greatest state of excitement at the idea of getting our 
 feet once more on terra firma ; for, be it here re- 
 marked, we had been exactly twenty weeks at sea, and 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 27 
 
 never had seen land since our leaving England, The 
 wind freshened as we neared the shore, and we sailed 
 in beautifully. On a sudden we obtained a view of 
 the city and fort, which have a very striking appear- 
 ance from the sea. By this time the European pilot 
 had come on board, and his boat's crew of darkies 
 engaged no small share of our attention, as they were 
 almost in a state of nudity. Another half hour 
 passed, and then we were surrounded by shipping ; 
 the anchor had been let go, and the vessel made 
 secure. Here again we were visited by numerous 
 bumboats, containing everything that was likely to 
 be tempting to raw recruits, such as fruits, &c. The 
 object of the people in these floating shops was to 
 barter their goods for any articles of clothing that 
 the men might be foolish enough to dispose of. 
 Woollen articles were most in request; and, in many 
 instances, blankets and flannel shirts changed hands 
 for a few pine apples. 
 
 All of us were much disappointed on being in- 
 formed that we were to remain on board another 
 night, it being too late to disembark. The bartering 
 system commenced then in earnest ; hammocks, with 
 their contents, went off for about a penny or twopence 
 worth of fruit. I disposed of nothing ; but some of 
 my comrades kindly acted the part of salesmen for 
 me. On going below to bed I found my hammock 
 minus its contents. This so enraged me that I took 
 the hammock down, and threw it out at the port- 
 hole, consequently I had to walk the deck all night. 
 
 At midnight, when all was silent and still around 
 me, my mind strayed back to the remembrance of 
 former events. " The girl I left behind me," home, 
 and all that was dear to me there, crowded upon my 
 
28 A soldier's life IX IXDIA. 
 
 memory. I strove hard to expel from my mind those 
 pamful reflections, but it was in vain. Happily a 
 sailor, who was on watch, came to my relief, and 
 turned my attention another way. A long and tedious 
 night at last gave way to the forthcoming morning, 
 and with it we had plenty of bustle and confusion, 
 all of us preparing for the disembarkation. The 
 boats were soon alongside, into which we leaped, gave 
 the officers of the ship three cheers, and in a few 
 minutes afterwards we were landed at the quay. 
 This was on the 5th of May, 1827. Here we were 
 met by a number of sergeants, who were deputed to 
 conduct us to the barracks. The day happened to be 
 very ^ndy. The dust was flying about so as nearly 
 to suffocate us. This assisted to strengthen the un- 
 favourable opinion I had formed of the country. On 
 our way to the barracks we passed through a strange 
 looking street, the houses being high on either side. 
 Here I looked about for white faces, but saw none. 
 At last I observed a band approaching. This turned 
 out to be the regimental band coming to play music 
 to us while going into barracks. I was agreeably 
 surprised to find that they were a set of fine, fresh, 
 healthy-looking young fellows. We soon reached 
 the barrack square at Fort George, where I was 
 astonished to see the men running about in all direc- 
 tions in their shirt sleeves. I felt half inclined to 
 think that they were mad, but on a nearer approach 
 I found that they were playing at various games. On 
 observing us many of them deserted their sports, and 
 ran towards the new comers. Amongst the rest a 
 brawny-looking fellow asked us, in the broadest of the 
 Scotch dialect, if there were "ony Ayrshire chaps amang 
 us." I answeredthatl didnotthinkthere was; on which 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 29 
 
 he remarked, *' You're a Scotcliman." I said I was. 
 " Come along with me, then," said he. This was just 
 what I wanted, and as so@n as I got an ' opportunity, 
 I put the following questions to my new friend : — 
 " How long does a white man generally live here ?" 
 "What do you mean by that, man," said he; "why, 
 they just leeve till they dee, like other folk. I have been 
 seventeen years here and I'm no dead yet ; and I'm no 
 intenden to dee until I see auld Ayr again.'^ "What," 
 said I, "seventeen years in this country! youai^e surely 
 jesting!" "Not at all," said he, "there are monyaulder 
 sodgers than me in the regiment." '^Is it always 
 windy weather like this?" I inquired. "Not at all," 
 he replied; "but I tell you what, youngster, I can see 
 through you at once ; you have come from Scotland 
 with your head crammed full of ' auld wives' ' stories 
 about India. Throw all that nonsense out of your 
 head, eat, drink, and be merry, my boy, and the 'deil- 
 a-fears' of you. I never had a headache since I came 
 to this country except when I brought it on myself 
 by drinking too much grog ; and then I could always 
 cure it with a double header" (two drams). " But 
 come," he continued, " I must take you over to the 
 canteen and let you taste our arrack." I was not 
 very sure of my new friend. In fact, I suspected him 
 to be both an impostor and a drunkard, and felt 
 anxious to get rid of him. When we reached the 
 canteen,it was crowded with recruits (or plumpers, as 
 I now found we were called). Here I gave my friend 
 the slip, and returned to barracks, where we were 
 allotted berths and supplied with supper. I then 
 stretched myself on my couch, soon fell fast asleep, 
 and did not awake till sunrise. 
 
 As soon as I got dressed I strolled out to look about 
 d2 
 
30 A soldier's life m ixdia. 
 
 me. It was a most beautiM morning ; all looked so 
 calm and serene around me that I felt quite amazed. 
 I strayed till I reached a tank in the barrack square ; 
 I leaned upon the railing that surrounded it, and 
 amused myself by taking notice of the frogs sporting 
 in the water, thinking they were different from those 
 I had seen at home. Presently I discerned a number 
 of natives walking towards the barracks in a bending 
 position, with something like leathern bags on their 
 backs, and water dropping out of them. All my wits 
 were now at work endeavouring to discoA^r what these 
 could possibly be, when a young man touched me on 
 the shoulder, at the same time saying, " Good morn- 
 ing, Sir, what do you think of this country?" There 
 was something very pleasing in this man's appear- 
 ance, which at once secured my confidence. I replied, 
 " I do not know what to think of it, but this is cer- 
 tainly a very fine morning." " Yes," he continued, 
 " but this is the hottest season of the year ; the rains 
 will set in next month, which will cool the country ; 
 are you not, ' added he, "a Scotchman?" I replied 
 in the affirmative, and gave him farther information 
 respecting my name, place of birth, &c. In return he 
 told me that his name was John Bain, that he came 
 from Airdrie, and had been between four and five years 
 intheservice. I now inquired of him what those people 
 were who carried the leather bags on their backs. 
 "0," said he, "these are the Bheesties, who supply us 
 with water." "What," said I, "carry water in a 
 bag?" "Well," continued he, "they are sheep or 
 goat's skins, I believe, tanned and prepared for the 
 jnirpose." 
 
 My new friend kindly undertook to show me the 
 various out-offices connected with the barracks, and 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 31 
 
 directed my special attention to the library and school- 
 room, stating that, if I wished to improve myself, I 
 never could have a better chance, as I would receive 
 books in abundance out of the former, and every 
 thing requisite in the latter, without costing me a single 
 pice (halfpenny). Thence we proceeded to the Ball 
 Alley. Here I was asked if I could play at ball ? I 
 answered in the negative. "Well," said he, "'you 
 should learn, for you will find splendid ball alleys 
 wherever you go in this country ; besides, I believe it 
 to be a healthy exercise, if you do not overheat your- 
 self" On our return he pointed out the canteen to 
 me, saying, " but I suppose you were there last night. 
 How do you like the arrack ?" I here related 'to him 
 the adventure I had with the Ayrshire '* chap," how I 
 suspected him to be a dissembler and a drunkard, and 
 gave him the slip without tasting the arrack. " 0," 
 said he, "I know whom you mean; you acted very wisely, 
 as he is too fond of the glass for you; but he is not a bad 
 fellow. He has been, I believe, seventeen or eighteen 
 years in the service, and notwithstanding his intem- 
 perate habits I am not aware of his ever being on the 
 doctor's list. However, that is not usual. If a man 
 wishes to enjoy good health in this country, he must 
 be temperate in both eating and drinking. One like 
 you," he continued, " who have been brought up in a 
 rural district, and have no doubt a good constitution, 
 by taking care of it, may enjoy as good health here as 
 in any part of the globe ; but hear, that is the break- 
 fast bugle, we must go and get something to eat. Good 
 morning, I will see you again." 
 
 I now parted with my new, and, as I afterwards 
 found, real friend, Johnny Bain, and proceeded to 
 barracks in high spirits. But I felt chagrined at hav- 
 
32 A soldier's life m ixdia. 
 
 ing allowed myself to be beguiled by the fabulous 
 stories on board our ship, and for the manner in which 
 I treated the honest Ayrshire man the previous even- 
 ing. I had not been long seated w^hen up came 'a 
 black cook, and asked me what I wanted for break- 
 fast. " Coffee or tea, master ?" said he. " Coffee," said 
 I. " And chilly "fry ?" he added. " If you please," I re- 
 plied. Away he went, and brought in a loaf of bread, 
 a dish of coffee, and a plate of finely fried beef. My 
 appetite being good, I commenced upon the fry, which 
 looked very fine ; but in an instant my mouth became 
 inflamed to such a degree that I bawled outmost lustily 
 for water. Of course I was well laughed at by some 
 of the -old soldiers, but one of them reproved the cook 
 for giving me this hot stuff, and ordered him to bring 
 me something else, which he did, and I at last made a 
 good breakfast. 
 
 Many of the old soldiers are particularly partial to 
 this chilly fry, which is nothing more than beef or 
 mutton highly seasoned with spices and chillies. After 
 breakfast we were ordered to parade before the com- 
 manding officer. He inquired if we had any com- 
 plaints to make ? I here stepped forward and presented 
 him wdtli an account for beef which the mess I was in 
 charge of had not drawn during the voyage. He re- 
 quested an explanation as to how I came to have such 
 a claim, when I assured him that not being able to 
 consume our daily allowance of beef, it was announced 
 to us that any portion we thought proper not to draw 
 would be taken account of, and that we should 
 receive compensation, in lieu thereof, on our arrival at 
 Bombay. He asked if any more had the same com- 
 plaint to make, whereupon several came forward, but 
 they had no written statements. He desired them to 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. S3 
 
 get their accounts ready, and forward them to him, 
 and he would see us paid, which he did to our entire 
 satisfaction. 
 
 We were now assigned to particular regiments. It 
 fell to the lot of my chum Jamie and me to be ap- 
 pointed to the 1st Bombay European Regiment, then 
 in the interior. But in the meantime we were at- 
 tached to the 2d regiment, then stationed in Fort- 
 George Barracks, and allowed to remain at Bombay 
 in anticipation of our regiment's return from the in- 
 terior. I soon discovered that my promotion as cor- 
 poral in the depot was merely a temporary affair ; but 
 the commanding officer informed me, as well as a 
 number more similarly situated, that we should get 
 the first vacancies that occurred in our respective 
 regiments, provided our conduct was such as to merit 
 approval. We were also now supplied with a kit of 
 white jackets, trousers, &c., suitable for the climate, 
 and the foolish fellows who had disposed of their sea 
 kit to the bumboat men, now found out their mistake ; 
 for had they brought all they possessed ashore they 
 might have sold what they did not require to good 
 advantage, the proceeds of which w^ould have assisted 
 materially in paying for the dress now required. We 
 now began our drill, after getting a few days to look 
 about us, during which time I was almost constantly 
 with my friend Johnny Bain, from whom I obtained 
 some useful information. 
 
 As to our treatment while recruits at drill, I may 
 mention that we had about one hour's drill in the 
 morning before breakfast, and the same in the even- 
 ing before supper, Thursdays and Sundays excepted, 
 as well as Saturday evenings ; so that our work, if 
 such I may venture to term it, occupied some nine 
 
34 A soldier's life in ikbia. 
 
 hours a week. We breakfasted at eight o'clock, dined at 
 twelve, and took supper about six, or earlier when the 
 evening parade was dispensed with. Our victuals cost 
 us about 10s or lis per month, and I am fully satisfied 
 that the like could not be purchased in England for less 
 than three times that sum. The school-room was open 
 from nine to twelve, and from two to four, for all who 
 wished to attend it, free of expense. The profit of 
 the canteen here goes to the soldiers, and supplies 
 them with all kinds of articles of amusement. The 
 men can sit and read in the library, or carry books 
 home to the barrack-room as they think proper. 
 Native barbers remain in the barracks all day for the 
 purpose of shaving and cutting hair, for which each 
 man is charged at the rate of 6d a month. It is cus- 
 tomary here to take a nap after dinner, and it is not 
 uncommon to see one of these barbers shaving a man 
 while fast asleep. Cleaning boys (as they are called) 
 remain always on the spot ready to clean the accou- 
 trements of all those who may wish to employ them. 
 This item costs the soldier Is 6d, or 2s a month. 
 Recruits, in general, clean all their own things except 
 their boots and shoes, for which they pay at the rate 
 of 6d per month. One cleaning boy will serve ten or 
 twelve men, and as he can always get more broken vic- 
 tuals in barracks than he is able to consume, he is in 
 my opinion much better paid than the British la- 
 bourer, for be it known that one shilling to him i^ 
 better than four to the working man in England. 
 
 Natives are allowed by Government to clean the 
 barracks and do all kinds of drudgery, so that the 
 soldier is required to do nothing mean or degrading. 
 The cooks are all natives of the country, and gene- 
 rally of Portuguese origin. Each mess has a little 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 35 
 
 boy to run messages for the men. In fact, the soldier 
 here lives like a gentleman compared with the British 
 labourer. When he mounts guard the whole of his 
 bedding is carried after him by the cooks, and spread 
 in a cot in the guard-room, so that he can stretch 
 himself out on it and take a nap, or read his book 
 when he is not wanted for sentry ; and as he is four 
 hours off sentry for every two hours on, he has plenty 
 of time to read or rest. I soon got dismissed from 
 drill, and commenced my duty. I had then four or 
 five parades less in the week ; and now that I knew 
 my duty I felt myself quite independent. I have often 
 heard it said that a soldier has too many masters ; but 
 I say that the soldier who knows his duty and does it 
 has no masters here. I have also heard bigoted en- 
 thusiasts say that a soldier cannot be a Christian; but 
 I say that as a soldier here, the poor man has every 
 opportunity of making himself a true Christian. He 
 is not like the hard-working man, worn out with the 
 fatigues of the day, and in no humour in the evening 
 to study things divine. Even when the long-looked-for 
 Sunday comes round, the labourer at home says to him- 
 self, I have laboured hard all week, I will not go to 
 church this forenoon, and in the afternoon he takes a 
 walk with his wife and children, or with his sweetheart, 
 and perhaps visits the church with the chimney at the 
 end of it. But in the evening a gloom comes over his 
 spirits at the thought of having to resume his weary 
 weekly toils on Monday morning. Here, however, 
 with the soldier it is not so. Both his body and mind 
 are at ease every day, or it is his own fault. He has 
 a good church to go to every Sunday, and ministers 
 visit the barracks once or twice during the week, and 
 hold prayer meetings in the library for all who wish 
 
36 
 
 to attend. The soldier can also have a choice of reli- 
 gious books, and plenty of time to read them. The 
 man, therefore, who says that a soldier cannot be a 
 Christian is clearly ignorant of all that appertains to 
 the Divine will. If he reads his Bible it is evident 
 that he does not comprehend it, for there is not one 
 word from one end to the other of that sacred volume 
 which excludes any class or profession of men from 
 Christianity ; and truly, I have met with far better 
 society in the army than ever I met with out of it. 
 But to resume my narrative. 
 
 My chum Jamie and I took a pride in going to the 
 Scotch Kirk, which is a handsome little edifice, and 
 well supplied with books, so that a person has no oc- 
 casion to take one with him. One Sunday while pro- 
 ceeding thither as usual, we were accosted by a smart- 
 looking young man in the garb of a sailor, or rather 
 that of a master's mate, who invited us to take a glass 
 with him. I hesitated, but Jamie said a dram would 
 give us an appetite for the sermon, so into a grog shop 
 we went, and whilst we were partaking, the sailor 
 asked us if we had any inclination to desert. We 
 answered that we had not, as we did not see where 
 we could go, to be better than w^here we were. He 
 said that his ship was lying in the harbour, that 
 as she was short of hands he would willingly take a 
 few of us, that he would rig us out in sailor's clothes 
 before we went on board, and that the captain would 
 ask us no questions. We remained with him until 
 we had had more than one glass, when all at once my 
 chum started up and advised me in the strongest terms 
 to go with the sailor. I looked at him with aston- 
 ishment. When he saw this, he said, " You can go 
 home to Edinburgh, marry your sweetheart, enlist as 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 37 
 
 a married man under an assumed name, and come 
 out again." The thought of seeing my Catherine, 
 enhanced no doubt by the spirits I had taken, almost 
 elicited from me an answer of compliance. At last we 
 agreed to meet the sailor that evening at seven o'clock, 
 and he said that he hoped by that time I would have 
 fully made up my mind, as he would be provided with 
 a suit of sailors' clothes for me. During the interval 
 Jamie kept urging me to take this false step, and we 
 even went so far as the barrack gate to fulfil our ap- 
 pointment with the sailor. But here fortune favoured 
 me, as we were stopped by the corporal on duty, and 
 told that we could not be allowed to pass ; an order 
 having been issued to allow none of us out on this 
 occasion, in consequence of some of our men having 
 misconducted themselves in the town on the previous 
 Sunday evening. Hence the system (however per- 
 nicious it may be) of punishing a whole regiment for 
 the misdeeds of a few, saved me from the consequences 
 that might have followed on this occasion. Yet I 
 would humbly suggest that the greatest distinction 
 imaginable should at all times be maintained between 
 the good soldier and the bad one, to induce the 
 latter to imitate the conduct of the former ; and I 
 cannot see how this could be better worked out 
 than by confining the bad to barracks, and giving 
 the good men liberty to walk out at all seasonable 
 hours. 
 
 I subsequently called at the place appointed to meet 
 the sailor, and learned that he had actually been there 
 at the hour mentioned, and had with him a suit of 
 sailors' clothes; but I may add, in justice to the 
 British seaman, that the ship this person belonged to 
 did not sail under British colours. I feel confident 
 
38 A soldier's life m india. 
 
 that at least two-thirds of the men that desert from 
 the army do so through bad advice. 
 
 The Sunday following the above adventure found 
 Jamie and me in church as usual, where we saw a 
 3'oung woman in the seat before us, who seemed to be 
 a stranger. I had occasion to reach my hand over 
 to her seat for a book. This attracted her attention. 
 She started, and looked about, when, to my unutter- 
 able amazement and surprise, in her I beheld my 
 Catherine. We both sprung on our feet, and I seized 
 her by both hands. We looked at each other for 
 some time, as if doubtful whether this was indeed 
 reality or a dream. Fortunately there were few 
 people in the church at this time, as the service had 
 not commenced. Neither of us possessed the presence 
 of mind to walk out, so we resumed our seats, and 
 remained until the service was over; but such a time 
 perhaps no one ever passed in church. I was quite 
 on thorns, and at times found myself sitting whilst 
 others were standing. In fact I was completely be- 
 wildered. I once thought of touching her, and beck- 
 oning her to come out, for I could observe that she 
 was equally uneasy as myself, and continued burying 
 her face in her handkerchief. At last the minister 
 having come to a conclusion, we retired, and found a 
 palanquin in waiting to convey her to her residence; 
 but she preferred walking, that she might the better 
 be able to unravel the cause of our happy though 
 strange and unexpected meeting. The reader must 
 excuse me for not doing justice to the scene that 
 followed, as I am not in possession of words adequate 
 for the task. Let it suffice to give an abridgment of 
 her own words, which were as follows : — 
 
 " After you left Edinburgh I got into a state of 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 39 
 
 despondency, and my healtli became impaired. The 
 doctor intimated that I was threatened with consump- 
 tion, and recommended a change of air. A young 
 woman called one evening to see me, and mentioned 
 a family who wanted a servant to accompany them to 
 India. I lost no time in applying, and was accepted, 
 after giving references as to character. I at once 
 joined the family and we set out for London, where 
 we remained until the ship was ready to sail. I have 
 no news to give you about the passage, except that I 
 suffered much from sea sickness, in consequence of 
 not having been at sea before; but every one with 
 whom I was connected was exceedingly kind to me. 
 I arrived here about three months ago, and when I 
 began to inquire after you, I was informed that you 
 might have gone to Madras or Bengal, so that I 
 would have nearly as long a voyage before me as the 
 one I had just finished, ere I could find you. I was 
 introduced to a gentleman who, I was told, had just 
 left your regiment for a situation in the town. That 
 person promised to obtain for me every possible in- 
 formation, and in a day or two he called and assured 
 me that there was not such a person as you on the 
 Bombay establishment. But," she added, "this is 
 where my family resides; come up." I hesitated, and 
 said, " Your master and mistress know nothing about 
 me." " No," she said, " for I never mentioned you 
 to them; but you must come up." So up we went. 
 
 We were soon seated in a small room, which ap- 
 peared to be appropriated to her own use, and here 
 we had ample opportunity of breathing forth our feel- 
 ings of affection. After a time she presented me with 
 a bundle of letters of an amatory nature. On looking 
 over them 1 at once discovered that they were written 
 
40 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 by a person who left the regiment, shortly after I 
 joined it, for one of the many situations that are given 
 to soldiers in India, and who was the identical gentle- 
 man whom she had commissioned to inquire after me. 
 This individual knew me quite well, and, moreover, 
 to satisfy himself, he called and had an interview with 
 me about the time that Catherine had first spoken to 
 him. But I suppose he thought, as he had now a 
 good situation, all he wanted to complete his happi- 
 ness was a wife, and consequently was deeply interested 
 in making her believe that there was not such a per- 
 son in Bombay. I inquired if she had ever replied to 
 any of these epistles ? She answered in the negative, 
 but said that she had consented to see him that 
 evening. " I suppose," added she, " he thinks that I 
 cannot refuse him because he rides in his buggy" 
 (gig). In short, after many promises to call again 
 on every available opportunity, I took my leave, not 
 so happy as some may imagine; for if I had found my 
 Catherine, I had also found a rival, and one, too, in 
 much better circumstances than myself; in fact, one 
 who was in a position to keep her like a lady. 
 
 I will now pass over a period of eight months, 
 during which I usually paid her a visit once or twice 
 every week, and was always received with every mark 
 of kindness and affection. My rival also continued 
 to pay his addresses to her, and after revolving the 
 matter over and over in my mind, I could come to 
 no other conclusion than that he was to be her hus- 
 band. Indeed, I could not see how any young 
 woman could so far sacrifice her own interests as to 
 choose me in preference to a far better man. Although 
 she generally showed me what letters she received 
 from him, and treated them with an air of indiffei> 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 41 
 
 ence in my presence, I was disposed to look upon 
 this as intrigue and duplicity, in which females oc- 
 casionally indulge in similar cases. But the sequel 
 of the story will fully prove that deception of any 
 kind could find no place in her bosom. It is a true 
 saying, " Those in love are like nobody else," or I 
 might have easily seen that she ever remained faith- 
 ful and true to me. This I only learned through 
 my chum Jamie, who had accidentally met her in the 
 town. Some remarks passed between them which 
 fully convinced him that 1 was still the object of her 
 affections. This he intimated to me, and on the fol- 
 lowing day I paid her a visit, mustered up courage, 
 and " popped the question," to which she responded 
 thus, " Ah, wh,y do }'0u ask me such a question ? For 
 whom did I leave my once happy home, and all that 
 was dear to me there, but for you, and you only! 
 For whom did I part from kind and beloved parents, 
 brothers, and sisters, in all probability never to be- 
 hold them again, but for you, and you alone! Oh! " 
 she continued, " you have been cool to me of late. 
 What will I do if you treat me ill? Remember what 
 I have sacrificed for your sake. But I think I know 
 the cause of your coolness; you are jealous of that 
 gentleman, but you have no occasion, for I gave him 
 to understand that I could never be his, as soon as I 
 knew his intention ; and if he persisted in sending me 
 an epistle at times, I could not help that. I showed 
 you all his letters, thinking that it was your duty to 
 put a stop to his thus annoying me." 
 
 I will leave the reader to judge how I parted with 
 
 my Catherine at this time, and will merely say that I 
 
 returned to barracks one of the happiest men upon 
 
 earth. But I soon discovered that my troubles were 
 
 e2 
 
42 A soldier's life IX IKDIA. 
 
 not yet all over, for when I returned to her, two days 
 after, to make arrangements about our wedding, I 
 found her in tears. She said that her master was 
 opposed to our union, and that he wished to see me. 
 In an instant I was in his presence, and a long ha- 
 rangue ensued, part of which I must omit for Avant of 
 space. Suffice it to say, that he began to write to my 
 commanding officer, in order to prevent me from get- 
 ting leave to marry; but, starting, he said, " Call 
 Catherine in, and let me hear what she says herself." 
 She soon made her appearance, and he began 
 thus : " Is it possible that you intend to marry this 
 man ?" " Yes," she replied. " Well," he continued, 
 "there is something strange in this. If I am not 
 misinformed there is a very respectable man paying 
 his addresses to you; why not marry him if you want 
 a husband ? " "I would be happier," she replied, 
 " with the one on potatoes and salt than I would be 
 with the other on beef and pudding." '* Well," he 
 added, " I consider that I am bound to act the part 
 of a parent to you here, and I will not allow you to 
 be married to this man." " 0, but I will write home 
 and obtain the consent of my parents," she replied. 
 " If you do that," he rejoined, " and wait their reply, 
 I will do all in my power for you both." 
 
 The letter was therefore written, and sent off; so 
 here the matter rested for a time. But I began 
 to think, and still more to feel, that twelve months 
 was a long time to wait, and I could not expect an 
 answer much sooner; besides, I was not sure of its 
 being a favourable one ; so I proposed to get married 
 privately. This she would not accede to for some 
 time; but at last she told me to do as I thought 
 proper. I then appointed the following Monday as 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 43 
 
 the day that was to make us happy; and when the 
 eventful day arrived, I, with my chum Jamie, and a 
 young female, waited for her at the time and place 
 appointed. We had not long to wait; and when she 
 made her appearance she seemed to me gayer and 
 lovelier than ever I had seen her before. The mar- 
 riage ceremony being gone through, she returned to 
 her master's, as she did not wish to leave the family 
 abruptly, and I returned to my barracks, as may be 
 imagined, a happy man. 
 
 I now set to work, in right good earnest, to fit up 
 a room suitable for her reception, and after giving the 
 family with whom she resided due giotice of our true 
 position as man and wife, I marched her into barracks 
 in triumph. The guard at the gate turned out and pre- 
 sented arms to us as we passed, with as much alacrity 
 as if I had been a field-marshal, and I may add with 
 safety that no officer ever raised his hat to a salute 
 with more pleasure than I did on this occasion. My 
 poor Catherine, however, became quite alarmed at all 
 this ceremony, especially when we reached the barrack 
 square, where we were received with sundry cheers. 
 After being seated, her excitement soon passed off, 
 and then she expressed herself highly pleased with 
 our little room and the manner in which I had got it 
 fitted up ; and I may with confidence say that we were 
 the happiest couple that ever occupied it. All was 
 one continued scene of happiness with us for some time. 
 She soon became a general favourite with the ladies 
 in the garrison, and was often out among them ; and 
 many a time, when I was on sentry in the dead hour 
 of the night, on some lonely and secluded spot, would 
 my Catherine steal to my side with something good, 
 and walk with me until she heard the relief coming, 
 
44 
 
 when she would vanish like a phantom, lest she should 
 be seen. But 1 am afraid I have trespassed on the 
 time and patience of the reader with the preceding tale 
 of love and matrimony. 
 . I had long ere this discovered that my chum Jamie 
 was not the man that I at first took him to be. His 
 wife had gone to England with some children under 
 her charge, for which she was to receive the handsome 
 sum of eighty pounds, and her return passage. This 
 induced him to intrude more on my company than he 
 otherwise might have done, and as I now possessed a 
 faithful and sincere friend in my wife, I felt anxious 
 to get rid of him. This I found to be no easy matter. 
 My regiment by this time had arrived in the garrison, 
 consequently I had lost my much-esteemed companion 
 Johnny Bain, as he had proceeded with his regiment to 
 Deesa, to give place to the former. I was exceedingly 
 sorry at parting with him, as he was ever a kindhearted, 
 good fellow, possessing the most acute and sensitive 
 feelings of any young man I ever saw, singularly 
 unobtrusive in all his manners, and fearful to 
 give offence. But, like all men, he had a fault, 
 and one, too, which blasted his prospects in the 
 service, viz., indecision, or a want of that firmness 
 essentially requisite to all, but to none more than 
 the soldier. He received preferment on several oc- 
 casions, but could not retain it, through want of 
 this very important qualification. He was promoted 
 to the rank of corporal shortly after I became 
 acquainted with him, on which occasion a rather 
 amusing transaction occurred, which I will endeavour 
 to relate. 
 
 There was an individual in the same company with 
 Johnny who was recommended for the corporalship, 
 
A soldier's life m india. 45 
 
 in consequence of his extremely sober habits, caused 
 no doubt by his being a great miser, and of course he 
 would not spend a pice in the canteen for the life of 
 him. This might have been all very well, but he was 
 in other respects a cringing, despicable character, 
 never failing to speak in the most unfavourable terms 
 of his comrades, when his own mercenary purposes 
 were in view. He could neither read nor write, and 
 some one contrived to convey this information to the 
 officer, who at once erased his name out of the pro- 
 motion list, and substituted Bain's. The promotion 
 took place one day when this person was absent on 
 leave; and it appeared that he had frequently pro- 
 mised to give the men a treat when he was made 
 corporal. They resolved, therefore, on his return, to 
 make him believe that it was as he expected, in order 
 to get the treat. He soon made his appearance, and 
 was met by a host of his comrades, all congratulating 
 him on his promotion. The treat was now asked. 
 This was against his creed; and after many evasive 
 replies he said, "Let me get the stripes on first." 
 The stripes were made and ready, and in an instant 
 stitched on his jacket, so he had now no excuse. Off 
 he went to the canteen with a dozen or two at his 
 heels, where they had a glorious " spree" at his expense. 
 At last the sergeant on duty in the canteen stepped 
 forward and asked him what he was doing with a 
 corporal's jacket on ? " Oh," said he, " did you not 
 see the orders to-day? I am made corporal." "What!" 
 said the sergeant, with an air of astonishment, " If 
 you do not be off and take the stripes off, I will be 
 under the necessity of putting you in the guard- 
 room." So my poor would-be corporal was forced 
 
46 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 to retire, and leave his comrades to finish their grog 
 and laugh at his credulity. 
 
 Fort George barracks are built close to the beach, 
 a trench only intervening between them and the sea. 
 The cooking houses, &c., stand on pillars on the 
 opposite side of the trench, and are surrounded with 
 water when the tide rises, which serves to carry away 
 all nuisance. Small bridges extend from the barracks 
 across the trench into these cooking houses, &c. The 
 barracks are two-storied erections, and a splendid 
 view can be had of the shipping in the harbour and 
 the surrounding scenery, from the back windows of 
 the upper flat. The men are allowed to wear any 
 kind of clothing they choose, when not wanted for 
 duty. They may be often seen in the square, playing 
 at various games, in fancy trousers of various colours, 
 and numbers of them with straw hats. Permitting 
 the soldiers to wear these fancy articles of dress has 
 certain good effects, as it induces them to take some 
 pride in themselves, and absorbs their spare cash, 
 which might otherwise be spent in a manner injurious 
 to health; besides, it keeps the regimental kit always 
 in good condition. I had myself at one time a whole 
 suit of red tartan — rather an odd dress, certainly, for 
 a soldier. Some may think that granting such 
 liberties may lead to slackness in discipline; but 
 such is not the case, for a better regulated army, 
 both European and native, is not to be found in any 
 country. The sepoys also doff" the regimental dress 
 the moment they come off duty, and substitute the 
 native garb, and then they are only known from other 
 natives by their tall, erect, and soldier-like appearance. 
 
 Boots and shoes are a very cheap commodity in 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 47 
 
 India. A regimental pair may be had for twelve 
 annas (eighteenpence), and good Wellington boots, 
 newly off the last, are often hawked about the bar- 
 racks at one rupee (two shillings) a pair. Meat and 
 drink are equally cheap; indeed, it would be well for 
 many if the latter were as dear as in England, for I 
 am convinced that two-thirds of the deaths that 
 occur here are caused by intemperance. Fruit is also 
 very cheap and plentiful, and some of it is most 
 delicious. It is all wholesome, if taken in modera- 
 tion, when ripe; but it is not an easy matter for the 
 recruit, whose appetite is keen, to leave off eating 
 mangoes, for instance, when once he has got 
 amongst them, they are so enticing. The only fruit 
 in England, that comes anything near the mango is 
 the wall plum, but the former grows much larger, 
 and has a richer flavour; its colour is of a beautiful 
 yellow, with a red side. The vegetable juice called 
 toddy is very plentiftil in Bombay. It is drawn from 
 the cocoa tree, by making an incision amongst the 
 branches, and attaching thereto an earthen vessel, 
 into which it drops. It is a most delicious drink, and 
 perfectly wholesome, if taken fresh from the tree, in 
 the morning, before sunrise. It is a great treat to 
 those who may have made too free with brandy 
 over night, it is so cool and refreshing. Some of the 
 low-caste natives are in the habit of getting intoxicated 
 with it, as it appears to be as strong as good beer. 
 It looks something like whey, but it ferments, con- 
 sequently there is always a froth on it. It gets sour 
 in a few hours, and then it is unwholesome; but 
 spirits, vinegar, and jagory (a kind of coarse sugar), 
 can be made from it. The bakers also use it in place 
 of yeast. A pint, which may cost a pice or two, is 
 
48 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 as much as will do any European good. The best 
 way to enjoy a draught of this beverage is to walk 
 out to the trees (or toddy-top, as it is usually called), 
 and there receive it just as it is brought down from 
 the tree. Toddy, though wholesome, should be taken 
 sparingly, and never except when perfectly fresh, as 
 it may produce very bad effects. 
 
 The Company's arrack is decidedly the safest 
 spirits that the European can consume. It is dis- 
 tilled by Government, expressly for the use of the 
 European troops, and as it is not sold publicly, being 
 confined solely to the canteens, no one can derive any 
 benefit by adulterating it; besides, it must all pass a 
 committee, to see that it is good, before it is offered 
 to the soldiers. It is distilled from rice, and sold to 
 the canteens at two rupees (four shillings) per gallon. 
 A native cannot get it to purchase. He, however, 
 who wishes to study his own interest will keep as 
 much aloof from spirits of any description as possible. 
 
 The Banyan system of shop-keeping is a treat to 
 the stranger. The flooring of the shop is raised 
 about breast higb, with a few steps to ascend in get- 
 ting into it. The whole front is open to the street, 
 so that there is neither door nor window to the shop. 
 The front is closed in at night by boards, which fit 
 into notches at bottom and top. The centre board 
 is secured by an iron bolt and strange-looking pad- 
 lock, and forms a key to all the rest. The goods 
 are laid out on the floor, and the shopman sits in the 
 centre of them, on his heels, more like a monkey than 
 a human being. He has his scales before him, and 
 everything within his reach, so that he just moves 
 about in his couched-up position, and supplies his 
 customers, who stand in the street until they are 
 
49 
 
 served. There are, however, *plendid shops and ware- 
 houses in Bombay, kept both by Europeans and natives, 
 but they have no show windows ; nothing is to be 
 seen outside except the designation of the firm on the 
 door. 
 
 The Parsees are a very influential class of people 
 here. They marry while mere children. The match 
 is made by the parents, who, if wealthy, expend enor- 
 mous sums on the wedding ceremonies. On these 
 occasions the parties concerned walk in procession 
 through the streets in the following manner: — The 
 bridegroom (who may be about eight years of age) is 
 rigged out like a field-officer, in scarlet coat, cocked 
 hat, &c., and the bride in the dress of a European 
 lady. They are both mounted on horseback, and 
 ride abreast of each other. The former continues 
 raising his hand to his head in the way of saluting, 
 as the procession moves slowly along; and the latter 
 has before her a basket of flowers, which she con- 
 tinues to throw at the youthful bridegroom as they 
 walk onwards. Next to them ride a few of their 
 young friends, in similar garbs. The male adults 
 follow on foot, in long white robes and chintz turbans. 
 A band of music takes the lead of the whole ; and 
 accompanying them are a number of natives, danc- 
 ing and performing a variety of antics. The whole 
 affair is accomplished in a most orderly and decorov\s 
 manner. After the wedding, the bridegroom's father 
 takes the bride home to his house, and attends to 
 her as one of his own children. To convey some- 
 thing like an idea of the age and size of these young- 
 brides, I may add that I have seen them brought to 
 the wives of our men to be decked out for the occasion, 
 and afterwards carried home in the arms of the 
 
 F 
 
50 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 females like infants, lest, they should soil their wed- 
 ding robes. Our regimental musical band were often 
 requested to attend at these marriage ceremonies, and 
 other native festivals, for which they were well paid. 
 
 It is astonishing to witness the dignified airs which 
 soldiers, especially the ignorant, assume in this country. 
 This is owing, no doubt, to the superior manner in 
 which they live, to what they have been accustomed 
 to at home. To hear them speak, if a person were 
 credulous enough, he might be led to believe they 
 were all gentlemen's sons. When trades or profes- 
 sions are spoken of, none of them is willing to 
 admit that he was a labourer previous to enlist- 
 ment; no, he denies the name. If the men are 
 proud, the women are much more so. If they 
 should have the misfortune (or perhaps it may 
 be more applicable to say good fortune) to become 
 widows, they will not deign to look at a priA^ate; 
 nothing so low for them, no, no ; and many 
 will not look at even a sergeant. They must 
 have conductors (warrant officers), aye, and get them 
 too. In a preceding page I have mentioned that 
 Mrs Jamie washed my clothes during the passage 
 out ; but had I hinted such a thing to her six 
 months after our arrival, I should have met with a 
 very sharp retort, if not a " slap" in the face. 
 
 The women do not wash their own clothes here; and 
 many do not even cook their own victuals. They keep 
 a servant, called cook boy, for that purpose. The Go- 
 vernment allows three Dhobees (native washermen), 
 for each company, who wash for all indiscriminately. 
 Every European woman receives five rupees per month, 
 and two and a~half for each of her children. Thus 
 the soldier's wife, with two children, receives twenty 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 51 
 
 sliilllngs per month in addition to her husband's pay. 
 The allowance made to children may lead to the 
 inference that Government possesses a claim upon 
 them on their arriving at maturity ; but such is not 
 the case. Except that of gratitude, there is no claim 
 whatever. When the boys attain a certain age, their 
 parents, if they choose, can have them entered on 
 boy's pay (tenpence per diem), and then they are at- 
 tached to the band, and taught some musical instru- 
 ment, besides being obliged to attend school. Thus 
 they are paid for acquiring a good English and 
 musical education. Finally, however, they must 
 either legally enlist into the service, or leave- it alto- 
 gether. Those who enlist in India are bound to serve 
 only five years, and receive a bounty of eighty rupees 
 (eight pounds), but they can renew the five years' 
 engagement as often as they please, and receive the 
 bounty at each renewal. Those who enlist in Eng- 
 land receive a gratuity, to the same amount, at the 
 termination of twelve years' service, and the same 
 sum at the expiration of every five years afterwards. 
 But there has been an alteration in this respect since 
 the act which came in force on the 21st of June, 
 1847, reducing the period of enlistment in England 
 to ten years for infantry, and twelve years for artil- 
 lery. But if I may judge from the liberality of the 
 Honourable Company, I should say that the eighty 
 rupees bounty will still be given to any who may 
 wish to renew their period of service. Of course the 
 infantry soldier will receive it two years earlier than 
 formerly. 
 
 On a rural and rather interesting spot in the 
 vicinity of Bombay stands the Central School, an esta- 
 blishment for soldiers' children, especially orphans. 
 
52 
 
 It consists of two elegant buildings, one for the boys, 
 the other for the girls, with a spacious play-ground 
 in front. In the centre of this space stands a church, 
 for the benefit of the pupils, and any Protestants that 
 may reside in the neighbourhood. The whole has 
 much the appearance of a gentleman's seat. The 
 sexes are kept apart, and not allowed to have any 
 communication with each other, except such as are 
 brothers and sisters. This most humane and bene- 
 ficial institution, though assisted by Government, is 
 supported in a great measure by public subscription. 
 The pupils are lodged, fed, and clothed in the estab- 
 lishment, and when the boys attain a sufficient age 
 they are apprenticed to trades, generally in the 
 Government works, or are sent to the hospitals to be 
 brought up as apothecaries. When the girls arrive 
 at the age of sixteen, their parents, if alive, can take 
 them out of the school; and when this is done the 
 parents have usually husbands in view for them. In 
 such cases of marriage something of the Parsee sys- 
 tem is followed. The match is generally made up by 
 the parents themselves, and often before the young 
 couple ever see each other. When the children are 
 orphans they frequently become the wives of young 
 men who manage to obtain a character from their 
 commanding ofiicer, and are thus introduced to the 
 secretary (generally the chaplain of the church before 
 mentioned), who admits them to the school-room as 
 casual visitors. This usually ends in a matrimonial 
 engagement. In such instances, however, the girl 
 must be married before she is allowed to leave the 
 establishment. From the manner in which these 
 young females are educated, they are as innocent as 
 can well be expected of human nature; so that it 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 53 
 
 rests in a great measure on the management of the 
 husband whether they become good wives or bad 
 ones. They are generally very obedient and submis- 
 sive, even to a degree of simplicity. Soldiers would 
 be performing a laudable and meritorious act by 
 subscribing to the above institution, let their mite be 
 ever so small, more especially married men, for they 
 know not the day when their children may require 
 the benefit of it. Surely it must be a great consola- 
 tion to a dying parent to know that such an excellent 
 asylum is open to his helpless offspring, not as a 
 matter of charity, but as a matter of right. It is true 
 widows and orphans receive pensions in India, perhaps 
 sufficient, when combined, to support a mother and 
 two or three children ; but as the former receives by 
 far the largest sum, should she be taken away, what 
 is then to become of the helpless little ones, if it were 
 not for this institution ? Every soldier ought to feel 
 deeply interested in this establishment; but in place 
 of that, the whole burden of its support is left to a 
 number of benevolent ladies and gentlemen, who can 
 never expect to reap any benefit from it whatever. 
 But perhaps I have said enough on these matters, so 
 I will change the subject. 
 
 Our regiment at this time was commanded by Colonel 
 T , an officer who, through some mistaken philan- 
 thropic views, was much averse to corporal punishment, 
 or indeed any other kind of punishment, except on the 
 wholesale principle, such as confining all the men to 
 barracks. This state of things could not last long, 
 for evil doers must be punished, either in or out of the 
 army, to give protection and confidence to the well 
 disposed. The regiment soon began to get into a 
 very disorderly state ; the men were often breaking 
 
 f2 
 
54 A soldier's life IK INDIA. 
 
 out of barracks and remaining absent for a length of 
 time. This did not escape the vigilance of the higher 
 authorities. One man was absent seven days, but 
 when he returned he was tried by a garrison court- 
 martial, and sentenced to be flogged. The colonel 
 had it not in his power to remit the punishment, so 
 flogged he must be. The regiment being assembled, 
 the colonel commented at some length on the nature 
 of the punishment. The man was tied up, and as we 
 had a few black drummers, one of them was in readi- 
 ness to inflict the first twenty-five lashes. The 
 colonel then called out to him, " Now, mind what 
 
 you are about, you Pariah : remember you are 
 
 going to flog a European." The drummer took the 
 hint, and did not punish severely. 
 
 Colonel T was soon after this withdrawn, and 
 
 Major F assumed the command. He was just 
 
 the oflicer the regiment required. He was an excel- 
 lent disciplinarian, I should say one of the best in the 
 service. He soon had our corps in a high state of 
 discipline. He was strict in punishing off'enders, but, 
 at the same time, he held out every encouragement 
 to the good soldier. His system was to drill men as 
 long as they required it, and no longer. That is to 
 say, he would have us out twice a-day until we gave 
 him satisfaction, and then only about twice a-week. 
 If we happened not to please him in the morning, he 
 was sure to have us out again in the evening. This, 
 in my humble opinion, is an excellent system; for 
 men here are induced to study their drill, knowing 
 that the better they make themselves acquainted with 
 it, the less they will get of it. When soldiers are 
 kept constantly at drill, whether they are efficient or 
 not, they can have little inducement to study it. 
 
A soldier's life IX INDIA. 55 
 
 Major F 's system worked well with us; a better 
 
 disciplined regiment than he made ours never ma- 
 noeuvred on Dongaree Green. Were I left to select 
 a regiment for myself, I would choose one commanded 
 by a strict disciplinarian. These officers generally 
 devote so much attention to their men as to know 
 the character and disposition of every one of them, 
 and there are none so ready to aid and assist the 
 good soldier; besides, they usually command great 
 influence, and can with little difficulty procure pro- 
 motion for their deserving men. Under such an 
 officer the meritorious class may rely upon not being 
 forgotten. 
 
 The following story represents an occurrence which 
 took place while I was on the castle guard in Bombay: — 
 After nightfall, the gates being closed, and all secure and 
 quiet, the men as usual commenced to spin " yarns." 
 Ghosts or phantoms became the subject of their dis- 
 course, and although I was ever sceptical in these mat- 
 ters, their various stories were sufficiently interesting 
 to keep me awake. They had all some fearful recital 
 to give of a building which stood convenient to the 
 ten gun battery in the castle, and where a sentry was 
 posted, being infested with evil spirits. As luck 
 would have it I was stationed on this very spot at 
 eleven o'clock, and when left solitary and alone, all 
 the stories that I had just heard crowded upon my 
 memory, and served to awaken fears in my mind 
 of which, with all my disbelief in them, I could not 
 divest myself. The night was rather dark, with a 
 sharp breeze blowing from the sea, which whistled 
 in the windows of the building, made the Vene- 
 tian blinds rattle, and added to the dreariness of 
 the place. I had been on sentry somewhere about 
 
56 
 
 an hour, when I saw a huge black thing coming 
 crawling through the sallyport which led to my post. 
 I stood for some minutes looking at it. until it 
 crawled on to my path. I then challenged it with 
 "Who comes there?" No answer being made, I 
 brought my piece down to the charge, and advanced 
 towards it. It then instantly assumed an erect posi- 
 tion, and commenced running. However, it was too 
 late, for I run my bayonet with full force through it, 
 up against the wall of the building, when the bodily 
 part instantly vanished through the sally-port, leaving 
 a soldier's blue cloak firmly secured on the point of 
 my bayonet. I stood bewildered for a short time, 
 when a voice called out, " Sentry, in the name of 
 goodness are you going to murder me. I am the 
 drummer of the guard, and was only intending to 
 give you a fright." He then made his appearance, 
 but kept at a respectful distance, until he was fully 
 satisfied I should do him no harm. Some may think 
 I acted rashly in this instance; but the fact is, I had 
 lost all control over myself, and can only account for 
 his life being saved by his cloak flying behind him 
 from the speed at which he was running. I now 
 inquired if he was injured ? He replied in the 
 negative ; but said that he never had a narrower 
 escape in his life. He now walked to and fro with 
 me during the remainder of my two hours, and in- 
 formed me that he had been in the habit, for a length 
 of time, of giving the sentries a fright on that post, 
 for a little amusement to himself; but that he would 
 never do so again, as long as he lived, and begged of 
 me, as I had discovered the trick, to keep it secret. 
 He then amused me with a recital of the ludicrous j 
 manner in which some of the sentries acted under 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 57 
 
 similar circumstances. It appeared that a person 
 named M'Namara, who was looked upon as a kind of 
 bully in the regiment, threw away his musket, and 
 ran to the next sentry, when he, the drummer, divested 
 himself of his cloak, and went round in another 
 direction, and came upon the two, and found M'Na- 
 mara in the greatest terror imaginable, being, as he 
 was, the victim of two fears, — the ghost, and the 
 breach of discipline in throwing away his musket 
 and deserting his post. After listening to his version 
 of the affair, the drummer said, " What will you give 
 me if I go and bring your musket?" "Oh," replied 
 the sentry, "anything you like." "Well," rejoined 
 the other, " let it be a bottle of brandy, to be drunk 
 after we come off guard." To this he readily as- 
 sented; so away the drummer went, and brought the 
 musket, and was highly complimented for his bravery. 
 He concluded by saying that he had to remain with 
 M'Namara, but all he could do or say, he could not 
 induce him to go within forty paces of the supposed 
 haunted building, until the sound of footsteps an- 
 nounced the approach of the relief. I was more than 
 surprised to hear this account of M'Namara, for in- 
 deed he was an active fellow, and took prizes on 
 several occasions for being the best wrestler and 
 jumper in the regiment; besides, he had the appear- 
 ance of being a bold, forward fellow. 
 
 Amusing tricks are sometimes practised upon young 
 soldiers, when they first commence their duty. They 
 are taught not to lay down their musket, or deliver 
 it up to any person when on sentry, except to the 
 sergeant of the guard; and it is not uncommon to try 
 them by simply asking for a sight of their piece. An 
 individual, who was not considered too wide awake, 
 
58 A soldier's life in IXDIA. 
 
 was accosted while on sentry by an officer saying, 
 "That is a very fine piece of yours; let me see it." 
 Of course he instantly delivered it up. The officer 
 cautioned him never to do so again, and explained to 
 him his error, saying, " I might be an enemy in dis- 
 guise, and now I am in possession of your arms, and 
 can do with you as I think proper." Sometime after- 
 wards this officer was on duty, and on going his 
 rounds at night, visiting the sentries, he came upon 
 this individual and found him minus his musket. The 
 officer inquired what he had done with it? To which 
 he replied, " Oh, you are not going to get it this 
 time." The inquiry was persisted in, and at last he 
 went and drew it out of the muzzle of one of the 
 battery guns! On another occasion this man was 
 posted on the advance gate, and the sergeant of the 
 guard cautioned him to be sure and present arms to 
 the major, should he pass that way. In place of 
 doing so, in the usual manner of saluting a field- 
 officer, he brought his piece to the "present," and took 
 a deliberate aim, as if he was going to fire at the 
 officer, who called out most lustily for the sergeant, 
 declaring that the sentry was going to shoot him. 
 
 My chum Jamie's wife arrived from Englaiid after 
 an absence of about twelve months, with above one 
 hundred pounds in her possession. All went on 
 smoothly and happily with them for a few days; but 
 Jamie soon began to form plans to get rid of the 
 cash as speedily as possible. It was not likely that 
 they were going to walk while they had so much 
 money; so a buggy was called into requisition on 
 every available opportunity for them to sport their 
 figures in; and copious draughts of something stronger 
 than tea were freely circulated among all who deigned 
 
A soldier's life IX INDIA. 59 
 
 to pay them a visit. Quarrelling and scuffling often 
 ensued, which usually ended in both setting to work and 
 demolishing every breakable article in their room. 
 On the following day they would go out in the buggy 
 as loving-like as ever, and make purchases to replace 
 the demolished crockery, &c. Amongst other articles 
 of finery which she brought from England was a 
 watch for Jamie, and lest the public should not be 
 aware that he possessed such a valuable article, he 
 exhibited a very large ribband, with sundry seals and 
 keys attached, suspended half way down to his knee. 
 Notwithstanding his being repeatedly found fault 
 with on parade for this ridiculous display, he per- 
 sisted in showing off his appendages. It was well 
 that this watch was above the ordinary strength, or 
 it might have been torn in pieces ; for in their broils 
 she was in the habit of flying at him like a tigress, 
 and endeavouring to wring it from his firm grasp, 
 saying that it was not his but hers. At last the 
 money was exhausted, and then they settled down, 
 and became something like themselves again, when 
 Mrs Jamie, like the sailor, proposed to go to sea for 
 more. The well-known fact that a superfluity of 
 money renders some people who have not been ac- 
 customed to it more wretched than happy, was clearly 
 demonstrated in this instance. It is somewhat re- 
 markable that beggars will be beggars still, give 
 them thousands of pounds. Should it not prove the 
 death of them, they will soon come down to their 
 original position ; or should they be supplied with 
 funds inexhaustible, they will still retain the beggarly 
 disposition. But to return more directly to my nar- 
 rative, and to matters in closer connection with 
 mvself. 
 
60 
 
 A period of above eight months had now elapsed 
 since I became united to my Catherine, and I may add 
 that I look back on this as being the happiest period 
 of my existence. She had many calls to attend upon 
 ladies when they were in that state in which they all 
 wish to be "who love their lords," or when there was 
 sickness in their families, for which she was hand- 
 somely remunerated. Indeed she earned five or six 
 times the amount of my pay. These calls became too 
 frequent, for she would no sooner have returned from 
 one lady than there would come a palanquin to convey 
 her to another. This caused me to feel at being so 
 much deprived of her society, and when urging her 
 to stay at home she would remark, " When I leave 
 you it is with feelings far from pleasant to me, 
 but I am consoled under it by knowing that it 
 is all for our own good ; for I am daily accumulating 
 money which may prove of great service to us on 
 some future day. If people do not save money in 
 their youth, there is little use in attempting to do so 
 when old. Should we continue as we are now doing, 
 we shall soon be in possession of a handsome sum, 
 and then I shall have no occasion to leave you as I 
 now do." She would go on saying, " You do not join 
 your comrades in their amusements or recreations, as 
 it was your wont to do, previous to our marriage; you 
 never go to the canteen. I should be sorry to see 
 you fond of drink like some of them, but I trust that 
 you do not place yourself under any restraint on my 
 account. Whatever is pleasing to you, is a source of 
 happiness to me ; it is my wish to add to and not 
 diminish in any way what may enhance your happi- 
 ness." In a word, " In each other's joy we both 
 rejoiced." But, alas! true happiness is of short 
 
A soldier's life m india. 61 
 
 duration in tliis life. She had been in the town as 
 usual, waiting upon a lady, and, on her return, com- 
 plained of being very unwell. I became greatly 
 alarmed, and insisted that she should not go out any 
 more. The doctor was sent for, and gave it as his 
 opinion that she had over-exerted herself, and, besides, 
 caught cold. He kindly attended her for some time 
 in our own room, but at last expressed a wish that she 
 should be removed to the hospital, as he would be 
 better enabled to prescribe the necessary remedies for 
 her there. This intimation fell upon my ear like a 
 death knell ; the doctor perceiving this, said that he 
 would obtain for me exemption from duty, in order that 
 I might remain in the hospital with her. This con- 
 soled me to a certain degree, and I at once procured 
 a palanquin, and had her removed ; and, fortunately, 
 there were no female patients in the hospital at the 
 time, so that we got the whole ward to ourselves. In 
 other circumstances, I could not have had free access 
 to the place, or been allowed to remain with her ; but, 
 as it was, I can only say that no mother ever attended 
 her dying child with greater care and attention than 
 I attended my Catherine. Dreary nights and days 
 passed away without sleep ever closing my eyes. One 
 day after reading to her as usual, she expressed herself 
 as being much relieved, and said that she hoped soon 
 to be quite well again, and urged me to lie down and 
 repose myself, as she was afraid that I would get laid 
 up also. But, if grief kept me awake before, joy had 
 the same effect now. She continued her observations, 
 saying that she knew I was averse to being absent 
 from my duty, and that I might return to it on the 
 following day. I looked upon this intimation as a 
 farther indication of her being in a fair way of re- 
 
 Gt 
 
62 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 covery ; and, after remaining all night with her, I 
 mounted guard in the morning. During the day I 
 felt much elated in spirits, making sure that she was 
 progressing favourably, and would be much improved 
 by the time my turn of duty was over. But alas ! — - 
 " To-day man's face is covered with smiles ; to-morrow 
 he is the picture of despair." On the evening of this 
 to me never-to be-forgotten da}^, I observed a mes- 
 senger from the hospital hastening towards me ; 
 on approaching, he said it was necessary I should be 
 relieved off guard, as there was a change. He pro- 
 ceeded to say more, but this was all that I fieard. The 
 man's manner told daggers which pierced to the very 
 core of my heart ; consciousness left me ; and, when 
 I revived, I found myself stretched on a cot in the 
 guard-room, with my accoutrements off, and my clothes 
 unfastened. I was then told I was at liberty to pro- 
 ceed to the hospital. It is needless to say that I lost 
 no time in doing so ; but, to give a minute detail of 
 what followed, w^ould be anything but pleasant to my 
 feelings, and, perhaps, prove of little interest to the 
 general reader. I will, therefore, pass it over as 
 briefly as possible. 
 
 On entering the ward, I found my poor w^ife sur- 
 rounded by most of the respectable females belonging 
 to the regiment. One of them was reading the 
 Scriptures to her, while she herself appeared to be fast 
 sinking. The instant she observed me she held out 
 her arms and endeavoured to rise up on her couch to 
 receive me, exclaiming, " Oh, my dear boy, have you 
 come at last ? I was afraid I should die without 
 seeing you. You have, indeed, been dear to me, and 
 I am extremely sorry to part from you so soon. Here, 
 take this ring, and wear it for my sake, (at the same 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 63 
 
 time putting it on my finger). Here is my Bible; I 
 have marked out some passages for you to study; and, 
 oh, I beseech you, prep^^re to meet me in eternal bliss ; 
 and take these ear-rings," she continued, " although 
 they will be of little use to you. Oh ! prepare to meet 
 me where sorrow and sighing are no more. I know 
 you will not be long in following me, as you are not 
 fit for this world." To add to my grief, the nurse 
 presented to me the body of a still-born male child; 
 but it occupied little of my thoughts. I looked at it, 
 and that was all; and then I turned to the object of 
 my affection, who was, at this time, shaking hands 
 with, and taking farewell of, all who were present, as 
 coolly and collectedly as if she had only been taking a 
 temporary leave of them, earnestly beseeching them 
 all to make preparation for the coming day. On again 
 turning her eyes on me, she said, " Oh ! if it were not 
 for you, I could leave this world without a tear." I 
 inquired where she felt pain ; to which she replied, " I 
 feel no pain, but I feel the breath leaving my body. I 
 have never felt much pain; my Saviour has been good 
 to me, and I know that he is ready to receive my 
 spirit. I sometimes fancy that I hear a whispering in 
 my ear, saying, ' Come, ye blessed of my Father, 
 inherit the Kingdom prepared for you from the begin- 
 ning of the world.' " On observing those around her 
 shedding tears, she said, " Oh ! may I not repeat the 
 words of my Saviour, ' Weep not for me, but weep for 
 yourselves ! ' " After a pause, she said, " I should 
 have liked to have seen my dear parents, but that is 
 impossible; write home, and say that I leave them my 
 blessing." " Now," she added, *' kiss me for the last 
 time. Now, I beseech you all to leave me with my 
 Saviour, for my time is precious." She now prayed 
 
64 A soldier's life IX INDIA. 
 
 most fervently for a short time, and then sung, in a 
 feeble but sweet voice, that beautiful little hymn which 
 begins with — 
 
 "The hour of my departure's come, 
 I hear the voice that calls me home," 
 
 After singing the h}Tnn she engaged again in 
 praj^er ; but her voice soon became so feeble as to be 
 quite inaudible. At this juncture the minister en- 
 tered. On being made acquainted with the state of 
 her mind he expressed much regret at not being sent 
 for sooner.! He offered up a prayer, but before he 
 had finished it her spirit took its flight. 
 
 This occurred about two hours after I entered the 
 hospital, and after being married only nine months 
 and seven days. To attempt to give the reader the 
 most remote idea of the state of my mind, at this time, 
 would be undertaking an impossibility; I stood, as it 
 were, alone in the world — a stranger in a foreign land 
 — without one relative to console me. It is true, 
 I met with many kind friends, who deeply sympa- 
 thized with me, and did all in their power to console 
 me, but their efPorts were of no avail. All was a blank 
 to me without my Catherine. In the meantime, pre- 
 parations were made for the funeral. Mother and 
 child were laid in one coffin, and all the women con- 
 nected with the regiment, together w^th the whole of 
 the company I belonged to, followed in procession, 
 and saw them consigned to that place " from whence 
 no traveller returns." After seeing the grave closed 
 upon all that was dear to me in this life, we returned 
 to barracks, w^here I fell into a state of despondency, 
 and became utterly regardless of myself. Life had no 
 longer any charms for me. Like many other weak- 
 minded men, I gave way to indulgence in the glass to 
 
A soldier's life m india. 65 
 
 drown my grief. The canteen soon became my 
 favourite resort; men who were despised by me before 
 now became my associates; and not a few of them 
 readily availed themselves of my weakness, to borrow 
 money of me, which, it is needless to remark, they 
 forgot to repay. After indulging freely in liquor over 
 night, I always awoke miserably depressed in spirits 
 in the morning ; yet, strange to say, I invariably ap- 
 peared clean and respectable on parade, and I never 
 for a moment forgot the duty I owed to my deceased 
 wife. A letter was written to her parents, in accord- 
 ance with her dying request, and I enclosed a draft 
 for sixty-two pounds of her own earnings, which I 
 thought would be sufficient to convince them that I 
 had married their daughter, not for money, but from 
 the purest motives. I also caused to be erected at her 
 grave a splendid head-board, stone not being procur- 
 able, so that large massy boards, shaped like tomb- 
 stones, were usually substituted. And after the usual 
 inscription of sacred to the memory, &c., &c., I had 
 inscribed on it the following lines : — 
 
 ^' She's dead. Ah, no ! she's gone to some f;ir happier shore ! 
 She lives, but, ah, she lives for me no more." 
 
 READER, 
 
 Awake your soul, awake and hear 
 The important call addressed to you ; 
 Prepare, prepare to meet your God 
 While mercy's door stands yet in view. 
 
 I felt the bitterness of my lot, and when others went 
 out to enjoy themselves, I went out to mourn over the 
 grave of my Catherine. On returning from one of those 
 visits, about a month after her decease, I was informed 
 that I was promoted to the rank of corporal. This 
 intimation I would have received with pleasure, had 
 
 g2 
 
66 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 my wife been alive ; but now it had the reverse effect. 
 Indeed, I was on the point of going to the officer to 
 beg to be excused from accepting of the corporalship, 
 when I was intercepted, and prevented from doing so, 
 by a sergeant who had my interest at heart. 
 
 Shortly after this, a friend of mine, who belonged 
 to the Sappers and Miners, having heard of my be- 
 reavement, wrote to say that he intended to pay me 
 a visit on a certain day, which he named. It so 
 happened that the day mentioned was one on which 
 I was for duty, but 1 at once resolved to go to the 
 adjutant, and solicit to be excused from mounting 
 guard, and, at the same time, ask leave of absence. 
 Previous to doing so, however, I went over to the 
 canteen and had a double-header, to enable me to put 
 on a bold front; for the man who is addicted to the 
 use of spirits feels afraid to face his superior unless 
 he is stimulated withf.liquor. On telling my tale to 
 the adjutant, he said, " Well, I hope this friend of 
 yours is a better man than some you have been asso- 
 ciating with of late. However, I grant your request. 
 Tell the sergeant-major, from me, to warn another 
 corporal for your turn of duty." This was all I 
 wanted, and as he had given me a broad hint regard- 
 ing my companions, I thought it was time to be off, 
 so I wheeled to the right-about and was making for 
 the door, when he called out, " Stop, stop, I am not 
 done with you yet ; come here. How is it that 
 I observe you going so frequently to the canteen 
 of late. This was not the case when your vdfe 
 was alive. I trust that you do not labour under 
 the foolish impression that resorting to drink will 
 serve to drown care. If you do, you will find your- 
 self most miserably deceived, and ultimately blast 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 67 
 
 your prospects in this life, as well as every hope of 
 happiness hereafter. You have every reason to con- 
 clude that your late wife is infinitely happier than 
 she could possibly be in this world. It is, therefore, 
 your duty, as well as paramount interest, to make 
 every preparation to meet her in a future state. You 
 must be fully aware that drunkenness is, of itself, a 
 great sin, and can only lead to utter destruction." 
 He would have said more, but a consciousness of guilt 
 on my part, taken in connection with the impressive 
 manner in which I was admonished, filled my heart 
 with 6motion almost to bursting, the effects of which 
 soon became visible. On observing this, he said, " Go 
 to your quarters, and I hope soon to see you as good 
 a man as you were formerly." 
 
 1 now returned to barracks vidth a heart as heavy 
 as if I had been guilty of some horrible crime ; and, as 
 it was near time to retire to rest, I stretched myself 
 on my cot, but not to sleep; for after the lights were 
 extinguished, and all had become still, a multitude of 
 thoughts crowded upon my memory, which served to 
 awaken within me a deep sense of my error, and to 
 draw from me strong resolutions to change my course 
 of life. I had previously formed similar resolution's, 
 but they had all vanished with the opening of the 
 canteen in the morning; and, on this occasion, I felt 
 sorry that the lateness of the hour did not admit of 
 my committing my determinations to paper, so as I 
 might not forget them. But I at last hit upon an 
 expedient which I have ever looked back to with satis- 
 faction. I got hold of my trousers, and put a knot 
 upon one of the legs of them, and then fell asleep, and 
 continued so until I was awoke by the noise of the 
 men preparing for parade. I jumped up and com- 
 
68 A soldier's life in ixdia. 
 
 menced dressing also, but was somewhat surprised to 
 find that I could not insert my legs into my trousers; 
 and, as men whose blood is inflamed by the use of 
 liquor are in general peevish and easily irritated, I, in 
 this instance, was no exception, for I felt inclined to 
 quarrel even with my own trousers — giving them an 
 angry pull, which rent them to such a degree as to 
 render them perfectly unfit for use. In an instant the 
 knot on the leg, and the cause of it being there, rushed 
 to my recollection. I then rolled my rent trousers 
 carefully up, and placed them in a corner of my box, 
 and substituted another pair. After parade I was hailed 
 by my former associates, and requested to go over to 
 the canteen to get my morning, as usual, but I was 
 inexorable . One of them laid hold of me to drag me 
 along, saying, " Come along, man, you are getting 
 into one of your dull moods again. You are never 
 better than when you have two or three drams in 
 you." But I was not to be done so easily; persuasions 
 and entreaties were used, but in vain. Here I again 
 experienced the truth of my own axiom, viz., that it 
 is an easy matter to take up with evil companions in 
 the army, but it is a very difiicult matter to get rid of 
 tliem. I had to undergo their taunts and sneers for 
 some time; they had not the desired effect, but 
 rather, like an oft-told tale, fell listless upon mine 
 ear. I can only add that the adjutant had the 
 pleasure of seeing me as good a man as formerly. 
 Henceforth, he nor any other officer had ever occasion 
 to accuse me of being in the slightest degree the worse 
 of liquor. The torn trousers, with the knot carefully 
 preserved on the leg, lay at the bottom of my box for 
 a number of years ; and I occasionally created a laugh 
 by exhibiting them, and relating their adventure. 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 69 
 
 My friend from the Sappers and Miners arrived at 
 the time appointed, carrying in his hand a small bag 
 of rupees, which he threw upon my cot, saying, 
 " There, that will do you and me as long as I remain 
 at Bombay." It may be necessary here to state that 
 bank notes were not then in circulation in India, and 
 gold is precluded from being much used as a coin, in 
 consequence of its having no standard value, so that 
 cash payments were invariably made in silver. Thus 
 a person having to draw, say to the value of fifty 
 pounds, would have to hire a coolie to carry it for 
 him. However, there is an excellent conveyance in 
 the shape of hoondies, which are procurable at every 
 station. Thus, for instance, a person about to re- 
 move from the interior to Bombay, pays his money 
 over to a respectable native merchant, who will sup- 
 ply him with a slip of coarse common-looking paper, 
 all written over in characters not one of which he is 
 able to decipher; but on his arrival at his destination, 
 he has only to present his hoondy or strange-looking 
 money order to some shopkeeper, and he will at once 
 direct him to the person on whom it is made payable. 
 My friend had availed himself of one of these, and 
 had it cashed previous to coming to me. I certainly 
 did not like to see the bag of rupees, and especially 
 the liberal manner in which he appeared to be willing 
 to dispose of it, as I thought it indicated something 
 like a spree; but I lost no time in communicating to 
 him my determination to avoid dram- drinking, and 
 was not a little gratified to find that he applauded 
 my resolution, saying, at the same time, that no 
 temptation should be thrown across my path by him. 
 We then proceeded to the town; and as there is 
 always a number of buggies standing convenient to 
 
70 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 the barrack gate for hire, we engaged one of them 
 for the day, and visited some of the most interesting 
 places in and around Bombay. My friend, who was 
 a very intelligent young man, was exceedingly full of 
 fun and frolic, and did everything in his power to 
 expel the gloom that still hung over my spirits, and I 
 must admit that he succeeded to a certain extent. 
 After remaining with me for a few days, he returned 
 to his station, and subsequently rose to the rank of 
 conductor in the service. 
 
 Every succeeding day now brought ^dth it fresh 
 life and vigour to my spirits, which induced me to 
 look upon my former conduct with disgust, and 
 wonder within myself how it was possible that any 
 man could become a drunkard. There is a degree of 
 tranquillity reigns in the breast of the temperate- 
 living man to which the drunkard is an utter stranger. 
 I have often thought that if the latter could but only 
 have a short trial of a sober life, he would be sorry 
 to return again to his sottish condition. But, unfor- 
 tunately, this is not the case ; for I have witnessed 
 instances of soldiers vigorously refraining from 
 liquor for years together, and regularly remitting 
 all the money they could possibly spare to the savings 
 bank, and yet ultimately break out, march to the 
 bank with their small deposit book, draw the whole 
 of their savings, and never cease drinking until they 
 landed in the hospital, from whence they were carried 
 to their grave. I have seen with my own eyes, men 
 staggering with drink, enter the savings bank and 
 demand their money; aye, and receive it too. From 
 this, I would be disposed to suggest that men who 
 may have accumulated a considerable sum in this 
 way should not be allowed to draw above a certain 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 71 
 
 portion of it without the sanction of their command- 
 ing officer. The Government savings bank is of 
 great benefit to the industrious soldier ; therefore, it 
 is much to be deplored if it should, in a single instance, 
 prove a curse instead of a blessing. Besides ample 
 security, he receives a high rate of interest ; and, 
 although stationed in the most remote parts of India, 
 his savings, if he wishes, are transmitted to this bank 
 through his commanding officer, without the slightest 
 trouble or inconvenience on his part. A few words 
 as to how I now passed my time might not be con- 
 sidered out of place. 
 
 Immediately after parade, in the morning, I would 
 set to work, and clean every article belonging to me. 
 No cleaning boy for me; indeed, I could not see the 
 utility of employing another to do that which I had 
 abundance of time to do myself. This process sel- 
 dom occupied me more than an hour. For when a 
 soldier's accoutrements are regularly attended to they 
 are easily kept in good order. This done, I would 
 proceed to the bathing-shade, soap and towel in hand, 
 and have a thorough good bathe, return and dress in 
 light clothes, as pure and white as soap, water, and 
 the sun could make them; consisting of loose trousers,' 
 drawn together and tied round the waist, with a run- 
 ning string, white cotton socks, and red leather slip- 
 pers, and then lounge on my cot and read, with as 
 much conceit as an Indian chief. Here I would con- 
 tinue until the bugle sounded for grog and dinner, 
 after which there was generally half an hour or an 
 hour's revelry; but I would retire to my couch, and 
 again resume my book, and perhaps drop oiBP to sleep. 
 And in the evening, if there was no parade, which was 
 frequently the case, I would proceed to the ball- 
 
72 
 
 alley and have a smart game at ball, and subsequently 
 retire to the library, or perhaps walk on the green in 
 front of the barracks, in company with a companion 
 or two, whose views were reciprocal to my own. 
 By way of change, I would occasionally stroll into 
 the town, and visit a few friends who had been more 
 fortunate than myself in procuring situations, by being 
 tradesmen suitable for the public departments, and 
 who, consequently, occupied houses in the town. The 
 docks were also a favourite resort of mine, as there 
 I was almost sure to find a British vessel laid 
 up for repairs, and get the news of home from the 
 sailors. 
 
 Towards the end of the year 1829, a volunteer offer 
 was given for a number of us to join the artillery, and, 
 as I had a predilection for the blue jacket, I was one 
 of the first to tender my services, although strongly 
 advised to the contrary by my friends, saying that I 
 should have to join the artillery as a private, or 
 gunner (as they are styled in this branch of the ser- 
 vice), whereas I was at this time senior corporal of 
 my company, and, consequently, first for sergeant. 
 
 In the month of January, 1830, 1, in company with 
 others, matched to the town barracks, a distance of 
 about half-a-mile, to join our new corps ; but not 
 without feelings of regret, when I looked back upon 
 the happy days 1 had spent in Fort George Barracks, 
 and the many kind friends I had left there, both 
 officers and men ; and as the regiment I had just left 
 was about to proceed up the country, it was probable 
 I would never see them again. These, together with 
 incidents in connection with my deceased wife, created 
 feelings in my breast which caused my heart to cling 
 to the spot ; and although years have rolled on, and 
 
LIFE IN INDIA. 73 
 
 intervened, I still continue to cherish fond feelings 
 towards Fort George Barracks. 
 
 I thought on this occasion to have got rid of my 
 chum Jamie, but he, like an evil spirit, was again 
 present with me. The change I had made proved 
 anything but pleasant for a considerable time, although 
 I was not reduced to a private, as I anticipated, but 
 allowed to retain the rank of bombardier. I soon 
 discovered that I had to begin afresh to establish a 
 character for myself. The man who is doing well in 
 one regiment does not serve his own interest in re- 
 moving to another, for he is almost sure to be put in 
 the back ground in the way of promotion. However, 
 the case is diflFerent with those who may possess bad 
 characters, and feel anxious to reform, as they have 
 certainly a better opportunity of doing so amongst 
 strangers, where their previous evil deeds are not 
 known. I saw several instances of this kind amongst 
 our party, of individuals who, when separated from 
 former vicious associates, became altered men, and 
 obtained promotion as rapidly, if not more so, than I 
 did. 
 
 I now commenced a course of all the various kinds 
 of big gun drill, together with sword drill, which 
 formed a source of amusement to me, for I never felt 
 drill irksome, unless when I had nothing to learn. I 
 have often heard it argued that exercising with the 
 heavy guns is laborious. This is an absurd idea, for 
 although there may be a heavy lift occasionallyj the 
 number of hands makes it light work. 
 
 I was somewhat amused with a sergeant here, who 
 
 was, in reality, a singular one ; indeed, it was a 
 
 mystery to many how this individual ever attained 
 
 the rank he held, for he was a slovenly soldier, and 
 
 H 
 
74 A soldier's life m ii^dia. 
 
 much addicted to the glass. However, he was famed 
 for running after the sergeant-major, and making him 
 acquainted with every petty transaction that occurred 
 amongst the men in the barrack room, for which he 
 became generally detested, so much so, that the 
 men in his room extinguished the lights one night, 
 and set upon Paddy (as he was usually called), and 
 gave him a sound thrashing. His cries alarmed the 
 whole barracks, and when some of us ran into the 
 room with lights, we found ever)' man stretched on 
 his cot, and all quiet, with the exception of poor 
 Paddy, who was lying on the floor, moaning as though 
 he had been breathing his last. None would give 
 information as to who the maltreaters were, so that 
 all the men in the room were paraded before the com- 
 manding officer on the following morning, who tried 
 in vain to discover the guilty parties. At last he 
 fixed his eye upon an Irishman, who was standing 
 gaping with his mouth open as though his ignorance 
 of the whole afPair left him quite bewildered, and ac- 
 costed him thus : — " Pra}^ where was you when the 
 lights were put out ? " To which he replied — " Me, 
 Sor ? " " Aye, you," said the officer. " I was in the 
 dork (dark) Sor." I may add, that I subsequently 
 learned that this individual was one of the guilty party. 
 An order existed (and very proper, too) against 
 carrying liquor into barracks. Paddy, to do him 
 justice, was very alert in detecting offenders in this 
 respect. On one occasion he caught a young man in 
 the act of bringing in a bottle of brandy. The offender 
 was lodged in the guard-room, and the bottle placed 
 under the especial care of the sentry, but during the 
 night some of the hopeful bo3^s succeeded in drinking 
 the brandy, and substituted in its stead a certain 
 
75 
 
 nameless fluid, taking care to leave the bottle appa- 
 rently untouched, and, at the same time, instructirij^^ 
 the offender to say that it was a bottle he found on 
 the green, and that he did not know what it contained. 
 Next morning, Paddy called for the bottle, as a proof 
 of the prisoner's guilt, and posted off with it to the 
 commanding officer as proud as a policeman with a 
 good case. But when the prisoner came to tell his 
 story about finding the bottle on the green, the officer 
 turned to Paddy and asked him if he was sure it was 
 brandy. " Yes, Sir," said he, " I'll take my oath it is 
 brandy." " 0, then, you are sure it is brandy." 
 " Yes, Sir, perfectly sure." " Well, then," continued 
 the officer, " extract the cork and make me as sure as 
 yourself," at the same time sending for a cork- 
 screw and tumbler; but Paddy, in the interval, applied 
 his fingers to the cork, which came out rather easy. 
 He then raised the bottle to his head, and tasted its 
 contents two or three times. At last he began to 
 spit and shake his head, " What," said the officer, 
 " you are not such a stranger to brandy as all that, 
 are you ?" A tumbler was now produced, into which 
 a portion of the liquid was poured, the colour of which, 
 toc^ether with the offensive effluvia, at once convinced 
 the officer that it was not the kind of liquor Paddy 
 was so ready, upon his oath, to prove it to be. It is 
 almost needless to say that the prisoner was dismissed 
 without punishment. But not so with poor Paddy, for 
 the officer gave him a most severe reprimand, saying 
 he was not worthy of the rank he held, if he was so 
 ready with his oaths against a comrade soldier. 
 However, Paddy was not destined to reign long, as he 
 was shortly after this reduced to a private. 
 
 In the month of December, 1830, a detachment, 
 
76 A soldier's life IX INDIA. 
 
 consisting of two bombardiers and forty gunners, were 
 required to proceed to Bhooj, in tlie province of 
 Cutch, to reinforce a company there. As I had fre- 
 quently heard flourishing accounts of the interior, I 
 resolved to have my name enrolled as one of the 
 party; but before leaving Bombay, it may be deemed 
 necessary to say a few w^ords in the way of giving a 
 description of this most interesting place. A few 
 words, I say, because my limited space will not admit 
 of me doing anything like justice to it. 
 
 Bombay, as many of my readers must be aware, is a 
 small island, lying in lat. 18^ 56' north, long. 72^ 57' 
 east. The fort, or town of Bombay, is situated at the 
 south-eastern extremity of the island, and presents to 
 the sea a formidable battery bristling with guns. This 
 battery, together with a deep trench, surrounds the 
 town on the land side, and forms altogether a fortifi- 
 cation of which the English reader, who has never 
 travelled, can form little idea. There are three 
 entrances into the fort, named respectively the Appolla, 
 Main, and Bazaar gates ; at each of these the walls and 
 trenches are double, so that in entering the town you 
 pass over two draw-bridges and through two gateways, 
 where a sentry is always posted. Inside, the fort 
 (besides a mass of native dwellings and shops) exhibits 
 many splendid buildings, such as the town hall, new 
 mint, governor's house, the two churches (English 
 and Scotch,) a host of public offices and commercial 
 establishments, the docks, and the castle, the walls of 
 which stand very prominent, being washed by every 
 succeeding tide. A flag-staff is erected on its highest 
 tower to signalise the shipping. The military stores 
 and treasure in the castle are immense. Many of the 
 European artillerymen are here employed as labora- 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 77 
 
 tory men, artisans, &c., for which, of course, they 
 receive extra pay. On a green enclosure, in the centre 
 of the town, stands a beautiful statuary monument to 
 the memory of Lord Cornwallis. 
 
 The view from the fort is exceedingly picturesque. 
 The smooth expanse of the bay being broken by the 
 mountain isles (adorned with trees to their sum- 
 mits) of Salsette, Elephanta, Sac, together with the 
 great number of shipping that are at all times moored 
 in it. Malabar Point, where a number of pilgrims 
 annually resort, and Colhaba, with its lighthouse, add 
 to the grandeur of the scene. A pensioned European 
 soldier is stationed on each of the small islands con- 
 venient to Bombay, where they live a retired but 
 comfortable life. They receive an allowance from 
 Government besides their pension, and the soldiers 
 give them the high appellation of governors. The 
 one stationed on Elephanta has the most enviable 
 situation, as he receives many perquisites in the way 
 of showing the celebrated caves in that island. 
 
 The fort is separated from the town of Dongaree 
 by a large plain commonly called Dongaree Green or 
 the Esplanade, which is studded with wells of excel- 
 lent water. Here a lively scene is exhibited every 
 evening by the worshippers of the sun, who assemble 
 from all parts in their white flowing robes and coloured 
 turbans, to prostrate themselves before his retiring 
 beams, together with gaily dressed European ladies 
 and gentlemen in their splendid equipages, taking their 
 evening airing, or listening to the governor's band, 
 which is stationed therefor the amusement of the public. 
 The face of the country beyond Dongaree is covered 
 with the beautiful villas of the European gentry. 
 
 Perhaps there is no place where a greater diversity 
 h2 
 
78 A soldier's life m india. 
 
 of character is exhibited than at Bombay. Here tve 
 have people of every creed, and from almost every 
 nation. Besides the Hindoos and Mahomedans, there 
 are various other tribes of natives, such as the Parsees, 
 the ancient worshippers of fire. Many of this class 
 are opulent, and take the lead in the commercial 
 transactions of the island. Their general conduct, 
 like the other natives, is quiet, orderly, and respect- 
 ful. Their garb consists of long white flowing robes, 
 with a turban of glazed chintz, peculiar to them- 
 selves, by which they are easily recognised. They 
 are of a brownish complexion, and are good-looking. 
 They love to be corpulent, and many of them are 
 very much so. They make provision for all their 
 own poor, and there is not a single prostitute belong- 
 ing to their caste. They have a great veneration for 
 dogs; and it is said that when a Parsee is dying he 
 likes to fix his last gaze upon one of these animals. 
 They do not burn or bury their dead like the other 
 natives, but expose the bodies on iron gratings, sur- 
 rounded by a high wall, where they are left to de- 
 compose. 
 
 The Hindoo women wear a short boddice, which covers 
 and holds up the breasts, and fastens behind. The sa- 
 ree, a long piece of coloured silk or cotton, is wrapped 
 round the loins in the form of a petticoat, but so tucked 
 up as to leave part of one leg bare, while the other is 
 covered to the ankle, with long graceful folds gathered 
 up in front, so as to leave one end of the saree to 
 come over the shoulders, and form a drapery, which 
 is sometimes thrown over the head as a veil. The 
 waist, in many cases, is exposed. The Mussulman 
 and Parsee women have nearly the same dress, in 
 addition to which they wear long loose trousers. 
 
79 
 
 The hair is drawn back from the face, and fastened 
 in a knot behind. It is common to see them literally 
 loaded with jewellery. Large massive silver rings, 
 called bangles, are worn from the ankle to the calf, 
 and from the wrist to the elbow, which puts one in 
 mind of a convict in irons. I have frequently seen 
 them with pieces of linen wrapped round the bangles 
 to prevent them from chafing the legs. The toes are 
 also sometimes decked with rings of the same descrip- 
 tion, while the fingers, ears, and nose, are adorned 
 with gold rings, set with precious stones. The Par- 
 see women, who are really handsome and good-look- 
 ing, and much fairer than the men, dress more gay 
 than the other classes, the saree being frequently of 
 fine green silk, with a small bird's eye spot in it; 
 orange is also a favourite colour with them. When 
 a Hindoo woman becomes a widow, she is stripped of 
 all her jewels, has her head shaved, and become^ a 
 servant in the house of which she was formerly mis- 
 tress, and of course not allowed to marry again. 
 
 Here we have mosques and temples innumerable, 
 but the largest one is situated in Dongaree, rather 
 more than a mile from the fort. It is dedicated to 
 Momba Devee, or the Bombay goddess. Connected 
 with this pagoda, and within a square enclosed by 
 high walls, there is a beautiful tank or well, built of 
 freestone, near to which sits a devotee, in a couched- 
 up position, with a flower pot on his hand. It is confi- 
 dently asserted that he has remained constantly in this 
 position, without the pot ever having been removed, for 
 a number of years. His arm is contracted and dried 
 up like a rotten stick, and the nails of his fingers have 
 grown to such an extent that they project over and 
 around the flower pot like ram's horns. This indi- 
 
80 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 vidual is looked upon as a great curiosity, and is 
 visited by almost every stranger who arrives on the 
 island. 
 
 We have a considerable native police force in 
 Bombay, superintended by a number of European 
 soldiers taken from the ranks and styled constables. 
 These individuals are handsomely paid, though per- 
 haps not overly, for they must keep up a respectable 
 appearance, or they would not be able to retain that 
 authority over the natives which it is necessary they 
 should do. This situation is not popular in the army, 
 as the soldiers appear to look upon anything bordering 
 upon the name of policeman as something beneath 
 them. Although the constables receive somewhere 
 about treble the pay of an artillery sergeant, it is rare 
 to find a person of that rank ready to accept of the 
 situation. These constables are known from civilians 
 by wearing a white hat with a small silver plate in 
 front of it. 
 
 Notwithstanding the immense concourse of people 
 here, somewhat about 400,000, it is very rare to see 
 a single individual disorderly in the streets, except (I 
 am sorry to say) it be a drunk British sailor, or, per- 
 haps, a soldier. There are three seasons in the year in 
 India, namely, the cold, hot, and rainy seasons. The 
 cold season extends from November to February, the 
 hot from March to May, and the rainy from June to 
 October. Thus we have eight months dry weather, 
 and four months alternate rain and sunshine. 
 
 I must now conclude my short description by 
 simply saying, that callous, indeed, must the mortal 
 be who can traverse the island of Bombay without 
 being deeply interested. 
 
 The time having arrived for us to proceed to our 
 
A soldier's life in ixdia. 81 
 
 new station, we embarked on board an Indian coast- 
 ing craft called a pattamar, for Maundiavie, a seaport 
 in the province of Cutch, distant about 500 miles. 
 As I before stated, our detachment consisted of two 
 bombardiers and forty gunners; we had twenty-four 
 days' provisions on board, and as the other bombar- 
 dier was senior to me he was placed in charge of the 
 stores, to supply us with our daily rations; and as 
 each man was allowed two drams of arrack per diem, 
 we were no sooner on board than he began to serve 
 out the grog, which I observed him do rather pro- 
 fusely, giving many of his favourites a double allow- 
 ance. The idea naturally struck me that all the 
 liquor he had in charge would have to be accounted 
 -for, so I offered to lend him my assistance; but my 
 services were declined, at least so far as the serving 
 out of the grog was concerned. On the second day I 
 found many of the men in a state of intoxication, and 
 some of them with their mess utensils full of arrack. 
 I now learned that he was disposing of the liquor to 
 any one who thought proper to purchase it. I re- 
 monstrated with him, but to no avail. We had a young 
 officer in charge, but he became indisposed, probably 
 from sea-sickness, so that the bombardier was allowed 
 to go on without interruption. The men continued 
 drinking and singing throughout the voyage, which 
 was, in other respects, a very pleasant one, as we 
 kept close into the coast, and had a splendid view as 
 we went smoothly along, under a light but favourable 
 breeze. On the evening of the sixth day we arrived 
 at Maundiavie, where we were met by a sergeant, 
 who had tents pitched, and everything ready for our 
 reception; a conductor was also in waiting to receive 
 over the surplus stores from my imprudent comrade 
 
82 A soldier's life IX INDIA. 
 
 bombardier, who had but a sorry account to give of 
 his stewardship. We remained at Maundiavie all the 
 following day, which gave me the opportunity of 
 going out on an exploring excursion, of which I 
 readily availed myself. I soon discovered the people 
 here to be more of a martial character than at Bom- 
 bay, many of them being armed with swords and 
 shields. A number of these armed men got around 
 me, and, not being acquainted with their language, I 
 began to have doubts as to my safety, particularly as 
 one of them kept forcing a sword into my hand, which 
 led me to believe that they wanted me to fight with 
 one of them. But at last I learned, through the few 
 words of the language I possessed, together with their 
 gestures, that they wanted me to show them our sys- 
 tem of performing the sword exercise. I had little 
 difficulty in satisfying their curiosity in this respect, 
 whereupon they began, one after another, to show me 
 a specimen of their abilities, which appeared to me 
 paltry and irregular. 
 
 The town of Maundiavie is of considerable dimen- 
 sions, and is surrounded by a high well-built wall. 
 There is a good deal of traffic carried on by small craft, 
 such as the one that brought us from Bombay; but as 
 there is no proper quay or wharf, the small vessels used 
 in the traffic are run up a creek at high water, and by 
 throwing their sides on the bank, they are compara- 
 tively easily loaded or unloaded. There is little about 
 Maundiavie to attract particular attention, yet I found 
 sufficient to gratify my taste for sight-seeing, 
 
 On the morning of Christmas, 1830, we took the 
 road for our new station at Bhooj, distant about forty- 
 two miles in the interior; and proceeded through a 
 tract of country partially cultivated for the growth 
 
A soldier's life IX INDIA. 83 
 
 of the cotton plant, and various kinds of country grain, 
 in addition to wheat, which was growing most luxu- 
 riantly; however, the greater portion of the land was 
 lying waste, and covered with jungle. We surprised 
 a good deal of game on the way, which made me regret 
 very much that I had neither powder nor shot. After 
 a pleasant march of about eight miles we arrived at a 
 small village, where we halted for the day, and 
 bivouacked under a large banyan tree in preference to 
 pitching our tents. We now set all our wits to work 
 to raise a Christmas dinner. The conductor kindly 
 offered to give us extra grog in lieu of our sweetmeat 
 money (a small sum allowed to each soldier on 
 Christmas day, as well as on other three holi- 
 days in the year). We all agreed to give up this 
 sum, which added considerably to our usual allow- 
 ance. Flour and plums were also procured, and, 
 having a few married men amongst us, their wives 
 very kindly threw aside their assumed Indian dignity, 
 and commenced to figure in the capacity of cooks and 
 scullions. Our poor native cooks were completely 
 superseded on this occasion. As for myself, I went 
 to the conductor and begged or borrowed some powder 
 and shot, and, with my fusil under my arm. I sallied 
 forth into the fields and jungle in search of game with 
 all the ardour of a Cockney sportsman, and, for a 
 time, with apparently as little skill, for all the par- 
 tridges at which I fired appeared to be shot proof. 
 A hare also crossed my path, but it happened to be 
 running too quick. I now discovered that it was one 
 thing to fire at a target, and another thing to shoot 
 game. On looking at my small stock of ammunition 
 I became a little alarmed, and resolved to use what 
 remained more cautiously. The report of my piece 
 
84 
 
 roused many pea-fowl, some of which I observed to 
 perch upon an adjacent tree. I now resolved to try 
 my hand upon them, and, by stealth, I succeeded in 
 getting under the tree, levelled my piece, fired, and, to 
 my unspeakable joy, one of them came rustling 
 through amongst the branches, and fell dead at my 
 feet. To be brief, I bagged three peacocks and some 
 pigeons; but, on reaching the camp, I found that some 
 of my comrades had been more fortunate than me, for 
 they brought in both hares and partridges. Cooking 
 was now the order of the day, and, in a short time, a 
 dinner was served up that would not have disgraced 
 an alderman. The glass went merrily round, and the 
 air was rent with " God save the King," «&c. 
 
 The two following marches took us through a range 
 of country much similar to that passed on the preced- 
 ing day. The mornings being much sharper at this 
 season than at Bombay, induced us to march at a 
 qviick pace to keep ourselves warm. I may add that 
 we were all in high spirits, the novelty of the scene 
 being a treat to many of us who were young in the 
 country. On the third day we reached a village of 
 some note called Cutchcarry, where, on an eminence 
 overlooking the village, stands a splendid mosque, 
 surrounded by a high wall. The village, at some 
 distant period, had also been w^alled in, as part of the 
 ruins are yet to be traced. The produce here consists 
 principally of sugar cane and tobacco, together with 
 badgaree and jewarra (Indian grain), much used by 
 the natives in making coarse bread in the same man- 
 ner as the Scotch make oat cakes. Carrots, onions, 
 &c., grow in the fields in abundance. The castor oil 
 plant is found in great quantities along the fences, 
 and furnishes a cheap light for the poorer class of 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 85 
 
 natives, by simply gathering the nuts and boiling them 
 in water; and, when cold, the oil is easily extracted 
 from the top. The oftener it is boiled in this way the 
 finer it becomes. 
 
 Next morning we resumed our route, and after 
 passing over a remarkably rough road, where some of 
 our baggage carts were upset, and subsequently 
 through a range of hills, we reached an extensive 
 plain, at the extremity of which we could plainly dis- 
 cern our barracks, situated at the base of a hill, 
 crowned by a fort. Another hour and a half and we 
 were safely housed, where we found a splendid repast 
 awaiting us, at the expense of our new comrades, to 
 which the reader may well suppose we did ample 
 justice. 
 
 I felt highly pleased with our new quarters, which 
 were neat and commodious, consisting of two separate 
 barrack rooms, a canteen, library, school-room, cook- 
 house, and a few cottages for married people, all laid 
 out so as to form a square, outside of which stood a 
 f^ bathing sheds, together with an excellent ball- 
 court. But as there were not cottages enough to 
 accommodate the married people who accompanied us, 
 others were built about 100 yards distant. 
 
 I must now revert to the fate of my comrade bom- 
 bardier who so ruthlessly wasted the stores. A few 
 days after our arrival the captain had us all assembled 
 in the library, and proposed that each man should 
 contribute an equal amount to make good the defi- 
 ciency, alleging that we had all equally partaken of 
 the arrack. No one said anything against this proposal 
 until the sum was mentioned. It being considerable, 
 a grumbling ensued, which ended in some of the old 
 soldiers intimating that he had sold the grog. The 
 
 I 
 
86 A soldier's life IK INDIA. 
 
 bombardier was instantly arrested on this charge, and 
 eventually tried by a court martial, and sentenced (in 
 addition to confinement), to be reduced, and placed 
 under stoppages until the whole was made good. 
 The commander-in-chief, however, forgave the latter 
 part of the sentence, on the ground of inexperience. 
 
 A short residence here verified all the favourable 
 accounts I had previously heard of an out station. 
 Provisions were even better and cheaper than at 
 Bombay. The mutton, in particular, though lean, 
 was the sweetest I ever tasted; but beef was seldom 
 procurable, as the natives, through some religious 
 scruples, were much averse to killing bullocks; in- 
 deed, they looked upon the slaughter of an ox with 
 nearly as much horror as the taking of human life, 
 and instances have been known of natives of a differ- 
 ent caste forfeiting their lives for so offending. How- 
 ever, the want of the beef was of no consequence to 
 us, as the mutton was decidedly preferable; and as 
 some of our company were often out fishing and fowl- 
 ing, our mess table was frequently well supplied with 
 delicacies of this kind. Turtle were also caught in 
 numbers in the river and surrounding tanks, so that 
 turtle soup was no treat there. 
 
 The life of a soldier in India, in peaceable times, 
 is an exceedingly lazy life, and where the mind does 
 not lead them to enter freely into athletic exercises 
 or manly pursuits, they become effeminate, and when 
 required to take the field, they find even short marches 
 very trying to them. Hence the necessity of encour- 
 aging all kinds of manly sports, of which there are 
 none better than hunting and shooting, as these not 
 only keep the men in a working condition, but im- 
 prove their efficiency as marksmen, and are conducive 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 87 
 
 to good health, if they do not expose themselves 
 too much to the sun. Our men were not only 
 particularly partial to the gun, but they kept up other 
 kinds of manly sports and amusements with great 
 vigour; and the result was, they were excellent shots, 
 besides being hardy and healthy. But this may be 
 attributed, in a great measure, to the goodness of the 
 officer under whom we served, for nothing gave this 
 gentleman greater pleasure than to see his men enjoy- 
 ing themselves, in any shape or form they thought 
 proper, so as they did not injure themselves or 
 others, or destroy public or private property. He 
 took a deep interest in the welfare of his men, and 
 they in return were devotedly attached to him. He 
 seldom had occasion to resort to severe punishment; 
 indeed his proceedings in this respect were often of the 
 most trivial nature, which the following will show. 
 
 One evening while employed erecting a temporary 
 fort for practice, one of the men was observed to be 
 the worse of liquor. The captain called him, and 
 
 said, "Gunner B , you are drunk, Sir." "No, Sir," 
 
 was the reply, " I have certainly had a glass or two, 
 but I am quite fit for my duty." " You are drunk," 
 repeated the captain, " and you are a disgrace to your 
 comrades, and you shall not have the honour of join- 
 ing them in their work. Go away. Sir, and sit down 
 
 under the shade of that bush." B retired very 
 
 reluctantly to the place appointed for him behind the 
 bush, where he sat looking very wistfully, first at the 
 captain, and then at his comrades, and ever and anon 
 making earnest appeals to be allowed to work with 
 his comrades, but all to no purpose. At last some of 
 the hopeful boys commenced to pelt him with lumps 
 of turf, and, after receiving several butts about 
 
88 A SOLDIER'S LIFE IX IXDIA. 
 
 the head, he started up, and ran staggering to the 
 captain, saying, " I must work. Sir, I must work, for 
 my comrades are making a fool of me, Sir; they are 
 pelting me with turf, Sir." But he was again ordered 
 back to the bush. On returning to barracks, the 
 captain gave an order for each man to receive a glass 
 of grog, with the exception of gunner B . 
 
 On another occasion, and while a detachment of us 
 were on the line of march, one of the men was again 
 observed to be in liquor, when the captain halted, and 
 ordered him to be mounted on the top of one of the 
 baggage camels, and led in front as a spectacle. It 
 was really laughable to hear the earnest entreaties of 
 the fellow to get down; but no, there he was stuck 
 during the whole morning's march, laughed and 
 scofPed at by his comrades. But paltry as these 
 punishments really were, they seemed to have the 
 desired effect. 
 
 It has often been urged by certain individuals (of 
 course ignorant of military matters), that all commis- 
 sioned officers should be raised from the ranks. Now, 
 I would deprecate this idea in the strongest language 
 imaginable, for I am sanguine that the very life and 
 marrow of the British army depends upon its being 
 commanded by gentlemen. Every good old soldier will 
 bear me out in saying, the greater the gentleman the 
 better the officer. I might here enter into a length- 
 ened detail of the very important and responsible 
 duties imposed upon a commanding officer, were it 
 not my intention to confine myself as much as possible 
 to those moving in the same sphere with myself. 
 
 There are numerous comfortable situations open in 
 the Company's service for deserving soldiers, and such, 
 too, as suit them better than commissions. The first 
 
A soldier's life I-^ INDIA. 89 
 
 of these are warrant officers, estimated at about 200, 
 and styled sub-conductors, conductors, and deputy- 
 assistant commissaries ; and all are promoted from 
 the ranks. Their duties are to superintend in 
 ordnance and commissariat stores. They take the 
 name conductorfrom being frequently employed in con- 
 ducting stores from one station to another. The 
 following scale may give the reader some idea of their 
 pay and allowances; and when their wants and neces- 
 saries are taken into account, it will be at once seen 
 that they are as well if not better paid than the lower 
 grades of commissioned officers : — 
 
 TABLE or PAr PER MONTH, AT TWO SHILLINGS PER RUPEE. 
 
 ' When within When beyond 
 
 "Wnyfcni- CifRno-ra 200 milcs of the 200 milcs of the 
 
 tV arraui; L/rncers. Presidency. Presidency. 
 
 Deputy Assistant Cornmissaries, £19 6 £27 12 
 
 Conductors, 11 10 14 10 
 
 SubDo., 7 7 9 12 
 
 Lower grades of Commissioned 
 Officers. 
 
 Lieutenant, 22 8 25 8 
 
 Ensign,.... 18 20 
 
 A permanentconductor receives three pounds per month 
 extra, and a conductor or sub-conductor, when proceed- 
 ing in charge of stores, draws three pounds for horse 
 allowance, and two pounds for stationery per month. 
 The above is the pay and allowances on the Madras 
 establishment, which may be taken as a fair average. 
 Then follows the non-commissioned staff — a host of 
 staff sergeants employed in various ways, such as 
 barrack sergeants, line sergeants, bazaar sergeants, 
 key sergeants, park and store sergeants, &c., &c. 
 Each and all of these are comfortable situations, and 
 are held apart from any of the duties incident to the 
 sergeant doing duty with his regiment. Then we 
 
 i2 
 
90 A soldier's life in ixdia. 
 
 have about 180 native regiments — cavalry, artillery, 
 and infantry — to supply with a European sergeant- 
 major, and a quarter-master sergeant each. In addi- 
 tion, we have a number of men working at their own 
 trades, and receiving good wages, and some employed 
 as clerks in the public offices. The trades most in 
 request are farriers, saddlers, turners, blacksmiths, 
 iron and brass founders, armourers, gunsmiths, 
 painters, engineers, engravers, &c., &c. Watch and 
 clockmakers are also highly remunerated for their 
 work. 
 
 Again, we have the engineers, or sappers and miners 
 as they are more commonly called, a class of men 
 selected at the depot in England, and instructed there 
 in a knowledge of their duties as overseers of public 
 works. There are no privates amongst them; but 
 they are classed somewhat as follows, and receive the 
 annexed amount of pay monthly : — 
 
 Sergeant overseer, £12 
 
 Do. assistant overseer, 10 10 
 
 Do. sub-assistant overseer,., 9 
 
 Corporal overseer, 7 10 
 
 Do. assistant overseer, 6 
 
 Do. sub-assistant overseer, 4 10 
 
 However, those who evince extra talent in surveying, 
 &c., frequently receive a much higher rate of pay than 
 the above, to obtain which they must make good use 
 of their time while under instruction at the Honour- 
 able Company's depot in England. For it is too late 
 to think of learning when required to act. 
 
 The number comprising the Honourable Company's 
 regular army may be estimated at 300,000 ; but if all 
 who bear arms in support of the government were 
 included, another 100,000 of irregular troops might 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 91 
 
 be added to the number. Out of this immense army- 
 there are only about 15,000 Europeans, to whom 
 (deducting the officers) the situations referred to are 
 exckisively open. The reader may observe that he 
 must be a silly fellow who cannot make himself some- 
 thing better than a private soldier in this service; but 
 there are many clever men in the ranks, simply because 
 they are too much addicted to the glass. Sobriety is 
 the great qualification for preferment in India, and it 
 cannot be otherwise; for what dependence can be 
 placed in a man, however good his abilities may be, 
 if he will persist in abusing them ? In addition to 
 the above 15,000 Europeans, there are generally about 
 20,000 of Her Majesty's troops lent to the East India 
 Company, whose period of service in India is seldom 
 less than twenty years. But I find I am straying 
 from the thread of my narrative, so I must return to 
 Bhooj. 
 
 When the heat of the day rendered it unpleasant 
 to go abroad, the barrack-room frequently presented 
 the appearance of a work-shop, some being engaged 
 making straw hats, others netting socks and gloves, 
 some making thread buttons (an article much in use 
 here, as they stand the washing better than any other 
 kind), and a number engaged in sewing, an occupa- 
 tion in which some had acquired a proficiency, so far 
 as to be able to make every article of their own 
 dress. These, together with shoemakers, tinkers, 
 &c., formed a variety seldom to be met with in one 
 apartment. Others, again, who had no taste for 
 these pursuits, were constantly inventing new pranks, 
 in the way of causing fun and frolic, some of .which, 
 though laughable, were rather absurd. If they found 
 one of their number intoxicated, and fast asleep, it 
 
92 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 was not uncommon to lay him out like a corpse, 
 covering him over with a white sheet, and hold a 
 sham wake over him. The jests that then followed 
 as to his good and bad qualities when alive, were 
 truly laughable. But the best of it was, they would 
 ultimately raise up the cot on which he lay, shoulder 
 high, and carry him all round the lines in the form 
 of a funeral procession, while one of their number 
 walked in front, enveloped in his blue cloak, holding 
 a book before him, to represent the parson reading 
 the funeral service. During this proceeding a feigned 
 scuffle would ensue, under the pretence that the 
 corpse had not been properly waked. The bearers 
 would get jostled about until they dropped their bur- 
 den. The noise and confusion at this time would 
 probably awake the sleeper, who would start up, tear 
 off the trappings with which he was adorned, and 
 make the best of his way to the barrack-room, amidst 
 peals of laughter. I might mention numerous pranks 
 of a less offensive nature, but for want of space the 
 above must suffice. 
 
 The native ideas of improvement, in any shape, are 
 very limited. Indeed, everything would appear to go 
 on now as it did a thousand years ago. Their agri- 
 cultural implements are of the most rude and primi- 
 tive description; but they are blessed with a rich soil, 
 which makes up for their deficiency in this respect. 
 The general crops are produced during the rainy 
 season; but there are invariably a few plots or fields 
 convenient to every village, which produce two or 
 three crops a year by irrigation. These plots are 
 divided into small square beds, with a raised edging, 
 so as to confine the water when once admitted. A 
 well is situated on a slightly elevated spot, where a 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 93 
 
 pair of bullocks are kept going backwards and for- 
 wards, drawing up water with a leathern bag or 
 bucket, so constructed as to empty itself into a trough, 
 from whence the water is directed into channels lead- 
 ing into the plot requiring irrigation. A man follows 
 the stream with a hoe, opens the edging of the first 
 bed, admits a sufficient quantity, then closes up the 
 aperture, and moves on to the next square and sup- 
 plies it in a similar manner, and so on until the 
 operation is completed. 
 
 The grain is trodden out by oxen; but here the 
 natives depart from Scripture usage, by muzzling "the 
 ox that treadeth out the corn." A beam of wood is 
 fixed on a pivot at one end, at the other extremity of 
 which a pair of bullocks are fastened, and thus they 
 are kept going round in a circle, the grain being 
 strewed among their feet. When trodden out, it is 
 exposed to the wind to separate it from the chafi^, and 
 then thrown up into heaps and covered over with 
 straw, and remains so until finally removed. All this 
 is executed in the open air, as they have nothing in 
 the shape of barns either to clean or store their 
 grain. 
 
 The wells used for irrigation are invariably shaded 
 by a cluster of trees, with frequently a garden attached, 
 which forms a most cool and desirable retreat for the 
 weary traveller. There he finds himself not only 
 entirely secluded from the sun's rays, but he meets 
 with a supply of beautiful spring water, as it runs 
 along the channels at his very feet, as clear as 
 crystal. 
 
 Having previously adverted to the pride and 
 haughty bearing of soldiers' wives in India, especially 
 those who are fortunate enough to get up a little, I 
 
94 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 will now give a striking instance of it. It is the case 
 of a woman who arrived in the country as the wife of 
 a private soldier in one Her Majesty's regiments, so 
 destitute of clothing as to be under the necessity of 
 appearing attired in her husband's white woollen 
 jacket. The husband, being a dissolute character, 
 died shortly after their arrival, the climate, no doubt, 
 being the alleged cause, as usual. The widow, who 
 was rather a good-looking female, evinced early 
 symptoms of an anxiety again to enter the matrimo- 
 nial state, but nothing under the rank of a conductor 
 seemed good enough in her estimation, and one of 
 that rank she actually obtained. On my reaching 
 Bhooj I found the happy couple stationed there; but 
 matters were now greatly changed with madam, she 
 having nothing less than a pony to ride on. The 
 wife of one of our men being sickly, was ordered by 
 the doctor to the sea coast. Her husband preceded 
 her with a hackray (bullock cart), containing their 
 baggage, &c., and she was to follow in a dooley (a 
 kind of palanquin for carrying the sick); but the 
 day turned out to be a holiday with the bearers, so 
 that none could be got to carry her. A friend kindly 
 proffered her the use of his pony. Another obstacle 
 presented itself — we had no side saddle. I posted off 
 to the conductor's wife, to solicit the loan of the 
 one she possessed. On reaching her dwelling I 
 communicated the nature of my message to the hus- 
 band, who turned to his better half and said, " O my 
 dear, here is an artilleryman wanting the use of your 
 side saddle for a poor woman who is going to the sea 
 coast for the benefit of her health;" to which madam 
 responded, " What ! lend my side saddle to a soldier's 
 wife ! no, indeed, I would not lend my side saddle to 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 95 
 
 any soldier's wife." The husband added, in a per- 
 suasive tone, "Oh, my dear, lend it to her, it will do 
 it no more harm than if it -vn ere hanging up in your 
 own room." But madam remained inexorable; so I 
 had to retrace my steps without the saddle, contrast- 
 ing, within my own mind, the change that a few short 
 years had made upon this little-minded woman. 
 Amongst certain qualifications she had acquired was 
 that of handling the gun ; indeed, it was no unfrequent 
 occurrence for her to make one in a pigeon-shooting 
 match. Her husband was allowed a man from the 
 barracks to act as clerk for him. He on one occasion 
 accompanied madam and her husband on a shooting 
 excursion; and after they had succeeded in killing 
 some ducks upon a tank, she was requested to walk 
 on a few paces until the clerk stripped for the purpose 
 of fetching them out of the water. He, on getting 
 beyond his depth, became entangled with weeds, and 
 showed evident symptoms of drowning. The con- 
 ductor urged some natives, whom he had brought with 
 him for the purpose of beating the bushes to raise the 
 game, to go in to the man's aid, but they declined, on 
 the plea of not being able to swim. In this emer- 
 gency, the conductor rushed in to his assistance, but, 
 melancholy to relate, they both ultimately perished. 
 During their struggle in the water an alarm was 
 raised, which brought back the wife, who courageously 
 rushed to her husband's rescue, and was actually up 
 to her middle in water, but the natives succeeded in 
 dragging her back, or she would undoubtedly have 
 shared the same fate. Notice of this melancholy event 
 was carried with all speed to the adjacent village; 
 the inhabitants of which, to do them justice, lost no 
 time in having the bodies taken out of the water, and 
 
96 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 conveyed into camp in a hackray. I would here 
 caution every individual against venturing into any of 
 these tanks or pieces of water, for the most expert 
 swimmer must lose his life if once he gets amongst 
 the long weeds. The bereaved widow's feelings at 
 this time may be better conceived than described. 
 However, in due time she married again, condescend- 
 ing, on this occasion, to come down a step, for she 
 wedded a sergeant. 
 
 In conversing with some of the old inhabitants, I 
 learned that previous to the British taking the reins 
 of power into their own hands, both life and property 
 were very insecure. Indeed, it was a work of time, even 
 with the combined efforts of the native authorities, to 
 accomplish their object in putting a stop to the depre- 
 dations of a class of native marauders who infested 
 this part of India, living solely on plunder. In put- 
 ting an end to their nefarious proceedings, it was 
 necessary to resort to very severe measures. Those 
 who fell into the hands of the Rao (native prince) met 
 v^ith little mercy. A very large gun was stationed 
 outside the walls of the town, to the muzzle of which 
 criminals were tied, and blown to atoms. Motives of 
 curiosity induced me, on one occasion, to witness this 
 shocking spectacle, but what astonished me most of 
 all was the cool and careless manner in which these 
 people meet death. Indeed, tbey appeared quite 
 unconscious of their wretched fate. One criminal, in 
 particular, after all was ready for his being tied up to 
 the gun, kept smoking at a pipe as if he was deter- 
 mined to make the most of it, knowing that it was 
 the last he would ever get. When called upon to be 
 quick, he replied, "Very good, Sir, I am coming," and 
 in another moment he was blown into eternitvl 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 97 
 
 For offences, sucli as wives proving unfaithful to 
 their husbands, they are frequently punished by hav- 
 ing the head shaved, and a string of old shoes slung 
 round the neck, and then placed upon an ass, with 
 their face towards the tail, and torn -tomed (drummed) 
 out of the town. 
 
 The hill fort here is rather an extraordinary con- 
 struction, being built along the top of a narrow 
 irregular hill, about half a mile in length. One end, 
 which overlooks our barracks, is terminated by a 
 large tower, and at the other extremity the walls 
 descend down to the low ground, and enclose some 
 buildings which are occupied by the British as an 
 arsenal for military stores. The town of Bhooj is 
 situated within a mile of this fort, from whence it 
 presents a picturesque appearance, being studded 
 throughout with trees, and the Rao's palace, a 
 large white building, towering above the surround- 
 ing scenery. Bhooj, like Maundiavie, is finely 
 walled, and offers many strange sights to the 
 eye of an European. Numbers of sacred bulls roam 
 about the streets unmolested, stealing their food 
 wherever they can get it. The natives drive them 
 away from the rice at their open shops, but they 
 will not hurt them. Some of these animals are 
 much disabled from the result of accident. It is no- 
 thing uncommon to see them walking on three legs; 
 one in particular, which I often took notice of, 
 actually walked on its two fore feet, dragging its hind 
 quarters along the ground, which were perfectly 
 powerless, from the back being broken, or otherwise 
 severely injured. Yet the natives will do nothing in 
 the way of having these animals removed. 
 
 A devotee is sometimes seen about the streets 
 
 K 
 
98 A soldier's life m india. 
 
 in a state of nudity, witli a chain and heavy stone 
 attached to his person; and others may he seen per- 
 forming cruel and disgusting acts of mortification on 
 their bodies, by cutting and maiming themselves, for 
 the purpose of obtaining alms, asserting that the 
 deceased relatives of those who refuse to contribute 
 suffer the pain. The acts of suffering and mortifica- 
 tion that these people sometimes endure in the way 
 of penance is perfectly incredible, and an account of 
 them w^ould be by no means pleasing to the intelligent 
 reader. 
 
 Strangers generally visit the Rao's palace for the 
 purpose of seeing his splendid menagerie of elephants, 
 lions, tigers, &c., of the first order. He has also a 
 splendid collection of the prettiest horses I ever be- 
 held. 
 
 I was induced, on one occasion, to visit the gaol, which 
 is an open court, surrounded by high walls, around the 
 inside of which sheds are ranged for the purpose of 
 affording shelter to the inmates. I was here struck 
 with the appearance of a remarkably fine-looking 
 man, who was heavily chained. On questioning him 
 as to the nature of his crime, he informed me that it 
 was for killing a woman. On my manifesting surprise 
 at such a person as he appeared to be being guilty of 
 so horrible a crime, he explained to me that he had 
 cohabited wdth her, and that she was of an inferior 
 caste to himself. She had held out threats of ac- 
 quainting his caste with the circumstances, and he, to 
 prevent her doing so, murdered her. He added, that 
 he might just as well lose his life as lose his caste. 
 
 There is a large pool of water outside the walls, 
 called the Rao's tank, which for size at the close of 
 the rainy season resembles a branch of the sea. It 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 99 
 
 is abundantly stored with both fish and fowl, which 
 are considered as sacred, or royal property, and con- 
 sequently allowed to live unmolested. Indeed, it was 
 looked upon as a serious oifence to fish or shoot on 
 its waters; yet this did not deter seme of our keen 
 fishers from paying it a visit, under cloud of night, 
 and bringing home a fine haul. 
 
 By this time I had become senior bombardier of my 
 company, and, as one of our corporals was appointed 
 sergeant-major to a native cavalry regiment, I was 
 promoted to the vacancy. 
 
 Towards the close of the year 1 832, a force of 5000 
 men were ordered to take the field, and proceed into 
 the then disturbed province of Nuggur Parker. A 
 detachment of our men, with two guns, were included 
 in this number. Here an eager contention ensued; 
 all wanted to go, and only forty-two could be taken, 
 but the captain (or Dad, as he was familiarly called), 
 settled the dispute by selecting the men himself, and 
 I was one of them. 
 
 The morning of our departure at length arrived, 
 and we left for our destination amid the shrieks and 
 cries of some of the men's wives on parting with their 
 husbands, who were doubtless of opinion that many of 
 us would never return, as it was currently reported that 
 we had a hazardous task before us. However, we set 
 out in high spirits, accompanied by a little vocal music, 
 as the men kept singing in chorus as we marched 
 merrily along. The morning's march brought us to 
 a village with which we were tolerably well ac- 
 quainted, as it contained a tank which we were in the 
 habit of visiting in our fishing excursions. 
 
 Other nine marches brought us to a village on the 
 borders of the Runn, where we halted for a few days, 
 
100 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 awaiting instructions to join the main body of the 
 army. Nothing interesting occurred during our route 
 to tliis place, except that we had some excellent 
 shooting, duck and other game being in great abim- 
 dance, and, as we always succeeded in reaching our 
 ground by eight o'clock in the morning, the distance 
 never being more than from nine to twelve miles, we 
 had ample time to devote to that purpose. We were 
 here joined by some native cavalry and infantry, and 
 as we brought with us a detachment of the Rao's 
 native troops, accompanied by two elephants, we began 
 to form something like an imposing force. As it was 
 reported that the enemy would dispute with us the 
 crossing of the Runn, we made every preparation to 
 give him a warm reception. This report kept us 
 constantly on the alert for a few days, but, it having 
 somewhat subsided, we retired to bed one night as 
 usual, when an incident occurred which caused no 
 little excitement at the time, and, subsequently, a 
 great deal of mirth. About midnight we were 
 alarmed by the dreadful screams of a man, which led 
 to the belief that the enemy was in camp, spearing the 
 men through the tents. We started up, seized our 
 arms and accoutrements, and rushed out of our tents, 
 half naked as we were, not one of us with a jacket on, 
 and many without either cap or shoes, except a few 
 with white night-caps. But we were instantly 
 equipped in our accoutrements, and ready to fight in 
 truly light-marching order. One individual, who, by 
 some means or other, had lost his shirt, actually 
 appeared in nothing but his trousers, with his belt 
 across his bare shoulders, as complete as if he had 
 been dressed for parade. Another person, thinking 
 that the tents were on fire, shouldered all he possessed 
 
A soldier's life Jjf ;iN:oii4: • '■.[[:['.[ IQl 
 
 and ran off, for which he got well laughed at. At 
 this juncture the captain was observed in his in- 
 expressibles, making his way in the direction from 
 whence the noise proceeded, when a dozen voices 
 shouted out, "O, there is Dad unprotected!" and 
 away they scampered, fixing bayonets as they went 
 along, and rallied round him, where they were soon 
 met by the nague (corporal) of the sepoy guard, 
 conveying the dreadful intelligence that one of his 
 number had been seized with an attack, not of the 
 enemy, but of nightmare, and that when he got restored 
 to his speech he had shouted out in the manner described. 
 I may add that I was the only one wounded in the 
 affray, for, when rushing out of the tent, one of the 
 men stumbled, and the butt of his piece came in 
 collision with my forehead, which caused me to dis- 
 play a pair of very suspicious-looking black eyes. 
 
 At last an order arrived for us to cross the Runn. 
 But before proceeding any farther, it may be neces- 
 sary to explain what this Runn really is. Well, then, 
 it is simply an extensive level tract of country, 
 covered with salt; extending from the River Indus to 
 the Gulf of Cutch. At the place where we were 
 about to cross, it may be between twenty-five and 
 thirty miles broad. Everything was now got in 
 readiness. Camels were provided for us to ride on, 
 at the rate of two men upon each, and the guns were 
 dismounted and placed upon sledges, to be dragged 
 by bullocks, assisted by numerous coolies who flocked 
 to our aid. The camels were brought down, to prove 
 whether or not they would carry Europeans, as it is 
 really astonishing to see how almost every animal in 
 India will start at the sight of a white face, until they 
 become familiarised. However, they proved quiet 
 k2 
 
1^2 A SOLEIEU'S LIFE IN INDIA. 
 
 and tractable, with the exception of a few; and with 
 these we had some rare sport, as the riders were na 
 sooner on their backs than they were left sprawling on 
 the ground, amidst peals of laughter from the by- 
 standers. Yet there was no lack of courage in 
 mounting again, and after several trials they became 
 somewhat quiet. 
 
 We set out one evening between four and five 
 o'clock, and after marching a short distance, we came 
 in full view of the Runn, presenting, to all appearance, 
 an arm of the sea; indeed, we felt confident that we 
 saw the waves breaking on tha beach; but the sun 
 soon disappeared, and with it this delusion, and then 
 the place appeared to our view in its true colours, 
 resembling a level district, covered with snow, as far 
 as the eye could reach. As soon as we entered on 
 our beautiful white carpet, our feet began to pene- 
 trate through the salt into mud. Here we halted, 
 and being ordered to mount our camels, we enjoyed 
 another hearty laugh at some of our comrades being 
 again pitched ofi^, and left to wallow in the briny 
 mire. However, there was nothing for it but mount 
 again, and we ultimately moved forward in rather a 
 stately and dignified manner, forming a long train, as 
 camels invariably do, the head of the one being tied 
 to the tail of the other, and the front one led by the 
 driver; by this means one man is enabled to conduct 
 twenty or thirty camels. The guns by this time were 
 considerably in advance of us, but they were soon 
 brought to a stand still, from the great quantity of 
 salt and mud that collected in front of the sledges. 
 There was now no alternative but to remount them on 
 their carriages. This the natives very kindly made 
 an effort to effect, but from want of skill in these 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 103 
 
 matters, they rolled the guns off the sledges into the 
 mire, where they lay completely concealed; and on 
 our reaching them we found that we were required 
 to accomplish that which the natives had failed to 
 effect. Our position at this time was by no means 
 enviable. On descending from our lofty steeds we 
 stood up to the knees in mud; and the cattle, who 
 seemed not to admire their position any more than 
 ourselves, kept plunging and splashing, till we 
 were bespattered all over. However, it was the 
 captain's wish that we should mount the guns, 
 and that was enough for us. In an instant 
 brawny arms were bared up to the elbows, and in a 
 few seconds the guns were pitched on the sledges, 
 and thence on to their carriages, in which all our 
 available force was applied; we again mounted 
 our camels, and the whole moved steadily forward. 
 At last we reached firm footing, where we resigned 
 our camels to some sepoys who had plodded 
 through on foot, and then set out at a brisk pace, 
 with the salt crimping under our feet like snow har- 
 dened by frost. After continuing our march in this 
 manner for twelve or fourteen miles, we again came 
 to soft footing, where we halted, and each man was 
 served out with an allowance of grog and a biscuit. 
 We again mounted the camels, and pressed forward 
 until we reached the opposite bank. This we effected 
 just as day was beginning to dawn. I may here add 
 that I examined the salt at various places, and found 
 it to average about an inch in thickness, and to be 
 as fine as the finest table salt I ever saw, and equally 
 fit for table use. 
 
 On reaching the bank we threw ourselves down on 
 the green sward, with our worthy captain in the 
 
104 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 centre of us, to await daylight, that we might the 
 better be enabled to select a proper place to pitch our 
 camp. Here some of the drouthy boys, who were 
 not aware of the captain's proximity, began to say, 
 " Let us go to old Dad, and ask him for a dram." 
 "Yes," observed one, "I have seen him more free 
 with his grog when it was not so much required." 
 " Yes," continued another, " if he does not choose to 
 give us an extra dram, why he can order us our own 
 morning's allowance." This kind of talk was kept 
 up for some time, and I lay laughing in my sleeve, 
 and wondering what the captain would think of it; 
 when he called out to the sergeant-major to give each 
 man an extra dram. Here the boys started, and ap- 
 peared not at all pleased with themselves on discover- 
 ing that the captain was within hearing of all they 
 had said. 
 
 We now moved on for a few miles, and pitched our 
 tents in the vicinity of a small village solely inhabited 
 by a class of people of neither sex, commonly called 
 Hermaphrodites, who appeared to be outcasts from 
 society. These people entered freely amongst us, and 
 supplied us with milk, &c.; but on removing to a 
 larger village, quite adjacent, for a better supply of 
 water, the inhabitants ran from their homes on our 
 approach, and left the village totally deserted. Our 
 captain ordered sentries to be posted over the village, 
 to prevent any damage being done to it; and he also 
 ordered horsemen out after the natives, to induce 
 them to come back, but without effect. 
 
 A few more marches brought us into conjunction 
 with the main army, encamped on a beautiful and 
 extensive plain. Here I had the good fortune to 
 meet with one of my former companions while in 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 105 
 
 Fort George barracks, but who was now a clerk in 
 the commissariat department. He evinced much 
 pleasure at seeing me, and insisted that I should 
 come down to his tent that evening, and sup with 
 him, to which I readily assented. On calling, 1 found 
 him very comfortable, with a tent to himself, and a 
 pony to ride on, &c. To be brief, I passed a very 
 pleasant evening with my friend, and retired to my 
 own tent about midnight, highly pleased with the 
 kind manner in which I had been entertained. But 
 I soon discovered that a very heavy dew had been 
 falling, as I felt my clothes quite damp, and in place 
 of taking the precaution to change them, I lay down 
 just as I was, and awoke in the morning very ill. I 
 rose and made the best of my way to the hospital 
 tent, where I was at once admitted as a patient, and 
 subsequently learned that I was afflicted with jungle 
 fever (one of the worst fevers in India), brought on, 
 no doubt, by exposing myself to the dew, ac- 
 celerated, perhaps, by indulging too freely on the 
 night in question. However, be that as it may, I 
 soon became so very bad that little hopes were enter- 
 tained of my recovery; indeed, under ordinary treat- 
 ment, I believe I should not have recovered. But 
 had the doctor's own life depended upon mine he 
 could not have done more for me. After being about 
 five days in hospital, I was blessed with a change for 
 the better, and began to recover almost as rapidly as 
 I had been taken ill. 
 
 I now felt all anxiety that we should not break 
 ground until I became sufficiently recovered to be 
 able to march, as I had a bitter aversion to ride in a 
 dooley, having repeatedly heard the old campaigners 
 chaffing their more unfortunate comrades for so 
 
106 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 doing, saying, " You cost the Government a precious 
 
 sum on the march, for you wore the bottoms 
 
 out of all the dooleys;" "You're the first in the family 
 who ever had four black stallions to carry you;" "You're 
 one of Jack Company's dear bargains," &c.; so that 
 I was determined, if possible, not to ride in a dooley. 
 However, I was doomed so to ride; for before I 
 was able to walk the length of the tent, the whole 
 force set out to cross about twenty miles of a desert. 
 As I slept in one of these dooleys, I was awakened 
 about two o'clock in the morning by the bearers 
 hoisting me shoulder high; and had it not been that 
 I felt uneasy at the idea of being carried by my fellow 
 creatures, increased through a dread of being ridi- 
 culed about it, I should have enjoyed my ride very 
 much. After proceeding along, at their peculiar jog- 
 trot, for seven or eight miles, the bearers stopped, 
 and a chattering and talking ensued, which ended in 
 the conviction that they had set out in the wrong 
 direction, so that they had no alternative but to re- 
 trace their steps, and find out the proper road as best 
 they could. I now felt doubtful whether it was pos- 
 sible that they could carry me to camp, so I resolved 
 to get out and walk betimes, as much as my strength 
 would permit, and we seemed to be getting on 
 pretty well: but I soon became so exhausted that 1 
 was little able to leave the dooley, and the bearers, 
 through fatigue, threw it down, declaring that they were 
 not able to carry me any farther. The day had set in 
 extremely hot, and they were almost in a state of 
 desperation for want of water, of which not a drop was 
 to be found. After reflecting for some time, I resolved 
 to set out and make a desperate effort to reach the 
 camp, so I braced every nerve, and took the road; 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 107 
 
 but ere I had traversed a mile I began to reel to and 
 fro like a drunken man, my thirst became intense, 
 and I threw myself down under the shade of a tree, 
 perfectly exhausted. Here I lay for some time, in a 
 state of partial unconsciousness, but at last I awoke 
 to a full sense of my position. It now appeared 
 CAddent to me that I had strayed off the direct road, 
 as there was no trace of an army having passed that 
 way, and had I even been able to march, I could not, 
 for the life in me, form the slightest idea of the 
 direction I should take, so that I saw nothing before 
 me but to perish in the jungle, and, strange to say, I 
 became quite reconciled to my fate. My thirst had 
 by this time abated, and I felt free from pain. I lay 
 on my back and gazed on the beauties of an eastern 
 sky, which afforded me endless food for devotional 
 reflection. There was a sweet odour arising from 
 the wild vegetation, which I inhaled with a degree 
 of pleasure, under the circumstances, almost incredi- 
 ble. Thus I lay, in deep meditation, my mind being 
 enveloped in a strain of heavenly ideas, with all 
 around me as silent as the grave, save the warbling 
 of some solitary bird. Towards evening I was startled 
 by a rustling amongst the herbage, and on straining 
 my eyes in eager expectation of meeting some friendly 
 succour, with horror I beheld a large tiger within a 
 few yards of where I lay. Happily he seemed not to 
 observe me, as he quickly disappeared in a thick part 
 of the jungle, much to my gratification. 
 
 Shortly after this I was again startled by a voice 
 saying "panny, sahib" (water. Sir), and on looking up 
 I was surprised to find a native standing over me, 
 with a leathern bag containing water. 1 soon learned 
 from him that he came from the camp, and was ready 
 
108 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 to conduct me thither. After several attempts I 
 succeeded in getting upon my feet, and with the 
 assistance of this kind native I reached the camp, 
 much to the gratification of my poor dooley bearers, 
 vrho were in long before me, and who anticipated 
 nothing short of a severe flogging for deserting me 
 in the jungle, or rather for allowing me to desert 
 them. 
 
 After partaking of some refreshment I fell into a 
 sound sleep, from which I did not awake until I was 
 again hoisted ofP by my bearers, who, it is needless to 
 say, took good care on this occasion to keep in the 
 wake of the troops. 
 
 A few days after this I got discharged from the 
 hospital, leaving behind me only one solitary and 
 desponding individual (which says much for the 
 health of our detachment), whose case, being of a 
 peculiar nature, I will reserve for another page. 
 
 After continuing our march for ten days, during 
 which nothing of any particular interest took place, 
 we came to a large, clean, and well-arranged village, 
 at the entrance of which stood a hideous-looking 
 image for worship, besmeared all over with oil and 
 red dust. Here we were placed under ordei*s to rest 
 for a day; and as we had not had a day's halt for 
 some time, we resolved to make the most of it. So 
 next morning, immediately after breakfast, a select 
 party of us set out in search of game; but while in 
 the height of our glory, we were alarmed by the 
 sounding of trumpets, which caused us to make a 
 hasty retreat into camp. We found that we were 
 just in time to join our comrades in another march. 
 We set out about one o'clock, and continued our 
 march until sunset, when we halted, but were ordered 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 10? 
 
 not to pitch our tents, as we would only be allowed to 
 rest for an hour or two. The cooks set to work to 
 prepare us a mess of pilaw. Here I was not a little 
 surprised at seeing our worthy captain bearing along 
 a billet of wood for the cook's fire. The example 
 seemed to have a magical effect, for poor Babberjee 
 (cook), who would probably have been left to forage 
 for himself, was instantly overstocked with wood. 
 
 After finishing our repast, we again started to cross 
 a desert of about twenty-five miles in breadth, which, 
 in consequence of the badness of the roads, together 
 with the exhausted state of our cattle, we did not 
 accomplish until two o'clock the following day, pitch- 
 ing our tents opposite the town of Bellmere, where 
 the enemy were in force ready to receive us. We 
 were very much fatigued, owing to being so long upon 
 the road, but the captain ordered each man a double 
 allowance of grog, which seemed to infuse new life 
 into us, as many of the men were seen scampering 
 about as though they had not marched a mile. 
 Strong pickets were posted around the camp, so 
 that we rested unmolested during that night, but next 
 morning we were ordered to prepare for action. The 
 general gave the enemy the opportunity of surrender- 
 ing under certain conditions, but they resolutely 
 refused to accede to his terms. He gave them time 
 to consider, but they still held out. The army then 
 advanced, and the sepoys were ordered to storm the 
 town, which they did in noble style, as may be inferred 
 from the fact that the enemy was completely subdued, 
 and the whole place in our possession, in the short 
 space of half an hour. 
 
 Our detachment was then marched back to the 
 tents and dismissed, and the remaining proceedings 
 
 L 
 
110 A soldier's life in INDIA, 
 
 of the day were left to the native troops. These con- 
 sisted principally of capturing and guarding prisoners; 
 and, as I was now at liberty, I went about taking 
 notes. As the prisoners were captured they were 
 brought out and arranged in rows on the plain in 
 front of the town, with their arms tied behind them, 
 and made fast to each other. The sepoys seemed to 
 exercise a degree of severity, if not even cruelty, over 
 them, which appeared to me to be quite uncalled for 
 — striking them with the butt of their muskets 
 whenever they attempted to move out of the squatted 
 position in w^hich they were kept, seated on the plain. 
 A prisoner, who was fondly caressing a child, at- 
 tracted my particular attention. A sepoy was 
 ordered to march him back to the town in order to 
 give the child over to its mother, and, feeling inte- 
 rested for the safety of the infant, I accompanied 
 them. On entering the tow^n we were met by a young 
 and prepossessing female in a state of frenzy and 
 despair, whose distracted condition led me to conclude 
 that she was the wife of the prisoner. She eagerly 
 seized the child in her arms and was like to destroy 
 it from the warmth of her affection, while the little 
 infant, unconscious of the anguish that burned in its 
 mothers breast, smiled and cried alternately. An 
 aged woman also made her appearance, whom I took 
 to be the prisoner's mother. The poor creature 
 bowed herself to the ground, lifted the prisoner's foot, 
 and put it upon her head (a mark of great esteem). 
 Here the captive's heart seemed to fail him, and he 
 asked for water, but the sepoy kept hurrying him 
 along, and w^ould not allow him time to receive it. 
 The young female threw herself upon the ground, 
 and clung to the prisoner's feet. The scene at this 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. Ill 
 
 time was painful in the extreme, and produced within 
 me feelings of the deepest sympathy. Indeed, I felt 
 as if I could have sacrificed my own life in defence of 
 the young woman and her helpless infant. However, 
 the prisoner was ultimately carried off, and the 
 females disappeared amongst others, and I was left to 
 contemplate the misfortunes of war, and to say, happy 
 must be the time when the " lion and lamb lie down 
 together." However, injustice to the Indian Govern- 
 ment, it is but right to say that they resort to every 
 diplomatic measure ere they have recourse to arms. 
 
 Everything here fell into our hands as prize pro- 
 perty; and a number of our camp followers, who had 
 succeeded in getting into the town, were bent upon 
 helping themselves to anything portable that they 
 could possibly lay their hands upon; and, as they were 
 caught, they were handed over to the tender mercies 
 of the provost, who, with little ceremony, served them 
 out with a few dozens each. The flogging was kept 
 up without intermission for some time, five or six 
 criminals constantly waiting their turn. While look- 
 ing on with amazement at this wholesale scourging 
 establishment, I was struck at seeing our milk-woman 
 and her husband brought in. This female was par- 
 ticularly good looking, and, from her affable and 
 agreeable manner, was a great favourite with our men. 
 Her husband was soon put through his punishment, 
 and some of the native officials actually began to bare 
 her back; but, no, happily for her, she had British 
 soldiers to deal with, whose gallantry admits of 
 nothing so unmanly as woman-flogging. But her 
 husband was not allowed to escape without receiving 
 an extra dozen on her account, for which favour con- 
 ferred she expressed herself as being much obliged, 
 
112 A soldier's life m ixdia. 
 
 and they both walked off, he shrugging his shoulders, 
 and she, I have little doubt, laughing in her sleeve, as 
 she seemed to have too many admirers to have much 
 regard for her husband. 
 
 The town of Bellmere is situated on the face of a 
 hill, crowned by a fort. It contains some very fine 
 mosques or temples, a few of which are falling into 
 decay. We remained in camp opposite the town for 
 upwards of a month, during which we contrived to 
 enjoy ourselves pretty well. Cattle which had lost 
 their keepers were running about in scores, so when 
 we wanted a little extra beef we had only to catch a 
 young bullock, one of our number acting as butcher. 
 This suited me to a nicety, as the only evil effects my 
 recent fever had left was an enormous appetite, and 
 the result was, that I soon became too corpulent for 
 my clothes. 
 
 A number of wealthy natives, who followed the 
 camp, were ready to buy up anything in the shape of 
 plunder; and when all else failed, they began to deal 
 in cattle, at the rate of three or four rupees each. 
 But the prize agent pounced upon these people at a 
 time when they least thought of it, and deprived 
 them of their illegally acquired herds. 
 
 The natives had the advantage of our men in 
 bullock catching, as they run like deers at the very 
 sight of a white face. However, one of o'ur number, 
 who was remarkably swift of foot, resolved to try his 
 hand by running them down, and in this manner he 
 soon succeeded in capturing one, which he made fast 
 in front of the tents, and started off in pursuit of 
 another. On obtaining hold of its tail, he kept wend- 
 ing it up towards the tents, when it took an abrupt 
 turn, and bounced directly through the captain's 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 113 
 
 marquee, overturning everything that came in its 
 way, he holding on by the tail, and hopping 
 over the demolished furniture; but on seeing the 
 extent of the mischief, he relinquished his hold, 
 and ran off in another direction, to avoid the captain, 
 who was soon seen approaching our tents, calling out 
 for the delinquent, who of course was nowhere to be 
 found. On seeing the bullock which was already 
 made fast, he inquired to whom it belonged, and on 
 
 being informed, said, " The d I's in the fellow, he 
 
 has just now driven one direct through my marquee! 
 Set it loose; it is a disgrace to Europeans to indulge 
 iri such sports ! " 
 
 Another individual, a son of the Emerald Isle, was 
 seen coming along with a young calf on his shoulders. 
 Its dam followed at a distance, eyeing him very 
 suspiciously, but at last came furiously on, and 
 pitched him headlong into a prickly-pear bush, with 
 his burden on the top of him, from whence he was 
 extricated with some difficulty, not, however, before 
 he was pricked all over like an old pin-cushion. On 
 getting out, he commenced an abusive harangue upon 
 his comrades, for not keeping back the enraged ani- 
 mal, observing, that in Derry, where he came from, 
 when they wanted the cow to follow them they usually 
 carried the calf; but he neglected to inform us 
 whether it was usually attended with similar results. 
 I may add that he was kept in amusement for some 
 time extracting the prickles, for a bush of this descrip- 
 tion is a most formidable enemy to come in contact 
 with. 
 
 For want of better employment — as we were 
 here deprived of the many resources for useful 
 amusement which are at all times available in 
 
 l2 
 
114 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 barracks, and as is said, with truth, "If you do 
 not employ soldiers the d — 1 will," — a few of our 
 men commenced a system of gambling. However, 
 this nefarious practice was soon detected, and every 
 card they possessed committed to the flames. 
 Their inventive faculties were now put to the test, 
 and, as necessity is ever the mother of invention, they 
 succeeded in getting up a new game, which they 
 styled " catch the fly," and which was played thus. 
 They arranged themselves in a circle in the centre of 
 the tent, each individual placing before him a rupee, 
 and the owner of the coin on which a fly settled first, 
 claimed the whole. This game is not so tedious as 
 some may suppose, particularly in a place where flies 
 are somewhat plentiful. 
 
 A very singular event occurred with me at this 
 place, which, although I am endeavouring to abridge 
 my original manuscript as much as possible, I cannot 
 think of passing over. I had always looked upon 
 the natives as a quiet inofl^ensive people, and I had 
 not yet learned to view them in any other light in this 
 quarter. 
 
 Having one day obtained a few ball cartridges, I set 
 out to a distance from camp, armed with a brace of 
 horse pistols, to indulge in a little ball practice. After 
 firing a shot or two, three natives came out from 
 amongst the hills and stood beside me. At last one 
 of them asked me if I would allow him to have a shot, 
 to which I readily assented; but, while loading the 
 pistol for him, an idea of suspicion crossed me, and I 
 dexterously avoided putting in the ball. On hand- 
 ing him the pistol ready cocked, he seemed at first to 
 take an aim at my temporary target, when all of a 
 sudden he wheeled about and discharged the pistol at 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 115 
 
 my breast. In an instant I raised the other pistol, 
 which I at the time held in my hand, and dealt him a 
 tremendous blow, which felled him to the ground; upon 
 which his two companions drew their creases and 
 made an attempt to rush upon me, but I levelled the 
 pistol, and declared that I would shoot the first who 
 dared to do so. My pistol was not loaded, but, for- 
 tunately for me, of this they were not aware. They 
 drew back a few paces, and I advanced and snatched 
 up the other pistol which lay beside the prostrate 
 man, and ran a cartridge into it as quickly as possible. 
 But, as they seemed to be deterred from making any 
 further attempt upon me, I hastily retreated into 
 camp, resolving to be more cautious in straying so far 
 from the camp in future. 
 
 However, the above incident must not lead the 
 reader to suppose that it is dangerous to stray abroad 
 in India, for although it may be so to a certain extent 
 at such a place as Bellmere, or in any newly annexed 
 territory, it is certainly quite the reverse in the pro- 
 vinces governed by the British for a series of years ; 
 and, again, I should say that it is more safe to travel in 
 our old settlements there by night or by day than in 
 England itself. Even the accounts given of the Thugs 
 are greatly exaggerated, at least so far as Europeans are 
 concerned, for it is rare, indeed, that an attack is made 
 upon them ; but it is not uncommon for natives to fall 
 victims to their atrocious deeds. Strangling is their 
 mode of taking life, it being against their caste to shed 
 a drop of human blood, for, be it understood, the 
 Thugs are a peculiar caste of themselves. A dread 
 of the Honourable Company's government is the only 
 cause that can be assigned for them not attacking 
 Europeans. 
 
116 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 I must now take my leave of Bellmere, and proceed 
 with an account of our march back to our old quar- 
 ters at Bhooj, which I will endeavour to do in as few 
 words as possible. 
 
 On reaching the village before mentioned, contain- 
 ing the huge image, the natives came in a body to 
 our captain, and expressed their gratitude at being 
 placed under British protection. Leaving them we 
 marched along very agreeably. Having now nothing 
 to hurry us, we rested every fourth day; and as we 
 took a different route from that by which we came, 
 we passed through a tract of country abounding in 
 cattle, the principal traffic being in ghee (clarified 
 butter). The numerous herds of cattle appeared to be 
 somewhat alarmed at our passing visit, as they used 
 to come down upon us of a morning like a charge of 
 cavalry; but on approaching within a few paces, they 
 would make a dead halt, stare at us for a few seconds, 
 then wheel about, and retreat at full speed, with tails 
 erect. Deer and wild hogs are very plentiful, and 
 the villages are adorned with beautiful peacocks, more 
 abundant than farm-yard fowls. 
 
 One morning, while on the line of march, three 
 hogs made their appearance on the top of a hill, 
 seemingly at a loss which direction to take, being 
 confused by the number of camp followers that were 
 passing on each side of the hill. At last they came 
 direct down upon us. We fixed bayonets, and suc- 
 ceeded in killing one of them, but the other two made 
 their escape. Pork of this description, however, was 
 no treat to us, as it was not uncommon for the officers 
 to send us a hog, much to the annoyance of an indi- 
 vidual who had been a Jew previous to enlistment, 
 and still retained enough of their principles to abhor 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 117 
 
 pork ; so that when any portion of a hog was to be 
 prepared for dinner, he was sure to watch the cooks 
 pretty closely, to see that none of it was brought into 
 contact with his mutton. On one of these occasions, 
 his dinner being placed at his berth while he was 
 absent receiving his dinner dram, one of our hope- 
 ful youths removed the mutton off his plate and sub- 
 stituted an equal proportion of hog's flesh, which, 
 being very lean, is more like mutton than fed 
 pork. The Jew soon returned, and, with appetite 
 sharpened by the effects of the grog, commenced de- 
 vouring the contents of his plate with apparently 
 great relish, amidst, however, considerable tittering 
 and laughing. Just as he had finished the last 
 morsel, a roar of laughter ensued, and several voices 
 called out, "The Jew has lost caste!" when he in- 
 stantly sprung to his feet, and became almost frantic 
 vdth rage; but finding there was no redress for him, 
 he swallowed the affront as he had done the pork. 
 
 We took in on our route a village held sacred by 
 the Hindoos, which contained, as may be supposed, 
 many splendid temples, the principal of which I went 
 along with a friend to visit; but we were not allowed to 
 enter, unless on condition of taking off our boots. It 
 contained a most gorgeously decorated image, profusely 
 adorned with trinkets, besides some jewels of very 
 great value. We were here nearly getting into a very 
 serious scrape, through my comrade, who chewed 
 tobacco, having inadvertently ejected a spittle on the 
 floor, on which the whole natives present set up a 
 fearful yell, and looked daggers at us. But my friend, 
 seeing the result of his imprudence, hastily wiped it 
 up with his handkerchief, which seemed to appease 
 them a little, and we then made our exit. 
 
118 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 All our Hindoo camp followers attended here to 
 receive some brand, or distinctive mark, in token of 
 having visited this holy village. The operation was 
 performed by an old woman, who stood upon an open 
 space in the centre of the village, having a fire before 
 her, at which she heated the instrument. The person 
 to be operated upon stooped down, placing his hands 
 upon the ground; the instrument was then quickly 
 applied to both arms, leaving an impression about the 
 size of a halfpenny. I was here somewhat amused 
 with a little boy, who, on receiving the brand on one 
 arm, took to his heels and set off at full speed, evi- 
 dently thinking he had got enough of it. 
 
 At last we arrived at Bhooj, all in excellent health 
 and spirits, with only one exception, viz., the same 
 individual whom I left behind me in the hospital tent 
 on my recovery from the jungle fever. This indi- 
 vidual was largely endowed with the greatest blessings 
 that fall to the lot of man in this life, namely, health 
 and strength. The latter quality he possessed to an 
 extraordinary degree; but how he made use of it will 
 be seen in the sequel. He was always boasting, and 
 displaying feats of strength, although I may say we 
 had none to compete with him, all admitting that he 
 was the strongest man in the company; yet this grant- 
 ing him the supremacy did not seem to allay his 
 desire for fame in that alone in which he was able to 
 excel. None were more overjoyed than he when w^e 
 received the order to take the field, thinking, no doubt, 
 that he would now have an opportunity of showing off 
 his superior physical powers. But what was the result? 
 The first morning's march proved that he was not able 
 to keep pace with his comrades, and was consequently 
 left a distance behind. He struggled hard, however, 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 119 
 
 for two or three mornings to do his duty like another 
 man, but was most reluctantly compelled to give in, 
 and was placed on the sick list. Nothing could have 
 been more galling to this individual's feelings than to 
 be thus impeded in the performance of his duty, as it 
 was not only his heart's desire to do his duty, but to 
 excel in it. But no, with all his boasted strength, he 
 was compelled to ride in a dooley. Had he been 
 afflicted with sickness such as men are heir to — the 
 strong as well as the weak — the case would have been 
 widely different; but although his case baffled the 
 skill of the medical officer for a time, it was ultimately 
 discovered to be the fruits of his own imprudence. 
 
 Whilst we were in the act of preparing to cross the 
 Runn, the captain observed him looking sorrowfully 
 out of the hospital tent, when he accosted him thus : 
 
 *' Well, C , how am I to get you across this place? 
 
 I think the best thing that can be done with you is to 
 send you back to Bhooj. I will provide you with the 
 necessary conveyance, and you will set out to-morrow 
 morning. You will there receive the best medical at- 
 tendance, and may soon recover your wonted health 
 and strength." To which he replied — " Sir, if you 
 send me back, I will throw myself into a tank and 
 drown myself." On the captain remonstrating with 
 him, and demanding his reason for entertaining such 
 an absurd idea, he said, with the tear in his eye, " Sir, 
 if I was to go back, my comrades would make a fool 
 of me." An officer who was standing by interceded 
 for him, and intimated that he had an empty gig go- 
 ing across, in which he could ride, and this settled the 
 
 matter. C returned to his duty shortly before 
 
 we reached Bellmere, and stuck to it, although, ap- 
 parently, with great pain to himself, until our return 
 
120 A soldier's life m india. 
 
 to Bhooj, where he had just time to have a day's spree 
 with some of his comrades, when he was taken very 
 ill — sent to hospital, stretched himself on a couch and 
 died. A post mortem examination proved that severe 
 sprains, from over exertion in displaying his feats of 
 strength, was the cause of his illness and death, accel- 
 erated, no doubt, by the liquor he had taken. Should 
 the foregoing save a single individual from a similar 
 fate, I will consider myself amply rewarded for my 
 trouble. It is preposterous, nay, disgusting, to hear 
 young men, daily and hourly, boasting of their strength, 
 and making bets as to who can lift the greater weight ; 
 and then to be seen straining every nerve to gratify a 
 paltry feeling of vanity. This evil, however, seems 
 to exist more out of the army than in it. Surely " the 
 Giver of all good " never created one man stronger 
 than another to have his strength thus fearlessly and 
 recklessly wasted. Yet it is necessary that soldiers 
 especially should enter freely into manly games, hav- 
 ing not labour enough to strengthen the muscles; but 
 lifting a dead weight is no exercise. Pitching the 
 stone, throwing the hammer, or playing at long ball, 
 hand-ball, or cricket, are conducive to health and 
 strength. Jumping, I should say, is not recommend- 
 able, as it is apt to produce varicose veins in the legs, 
 a defect ruinous to the soldier, as it renders him unfit 
 for marching. 
 
 We were received with the greatest delight by our 
 comrades in barracks, who got up a splendid supper to 
 greet our arrival. But our short campaign, which did 
 not exceed five months, seemed to have created within 
 us a restless disposition; for although we enjoyed the 
 barrack life very well for a time, we soon became all 
 anxiety to be again in the field. However, this feel- 
 
A soldier's life m india. 121 
 
 ing was somewhat allayed by two spirited young 
 officers joining us at this time, who succeeded in get- 
 ting up a theatrical entertainment. They were both 
 proficient painters, and kindly executed the scenery 
 with their own hand; scenery, too, that would have 
 been no discredit to a London minor theatre. This 
 undertaking was warmly patronised by the officers in 
 camp, who contributed so largely towards it, that it 
 was found unnecessary to make any charge for admit- 
 tance. At the commencement, the performers were 
 composed of our men only, but, subsequently, a few 
 of the officers figured in some of the leading cha- 
 racters. 
 
 The currency of this province consists of cowries, 
 half cowries, and pice. The first is a little more 
 than sixpence in value. The number of pice usually 
 given for it varies from twenty to twenty -four. This 
 money seemed to me to be more profitable than the 
 Bombay currency of rupees, annas, and pice. 
 
 In the month of December, 1833, we were placed 
 under orders to proceed to Ahmednuggur, via Bombay. 
 This change would have been received with pleasure, 
 but our officers were not to accompany us ; an ar- 
 rangement which, I believe, was equally disagreeable 
 to all parties. Our worthy captain was indisposed 
 at the time, but as he wished to see us before we left, 
 he had us paraded at his own quarters, where we re- 
 ceived .a few words in the way of good advice. The 
 two young officers before mentioned accompanied us 
 to Maundiavie, and there gave over their charge to a 
 strange officer; but they did not leave us until they 
 saw us safely embarked on board of four pattamars, 
 which were in readiness to convey us to Bombay ; and 
 on our moving out to sea, they took off their hats and 
 
 M 
 
122 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 called out, " Good bye, lads," to which we responded 
 with three times three for our worthy captain, and 
 three hearty cheers, and an extra one, for the 
 young officers, who stood on the shore waving their 
 hats until we were nearly out of sight. 
 
 The charge of rations, &c., devolved upon me, 
 which I contrived to manage in a manner wddely 
 different to what my comrade had done on a former 
 occasion. The wind continued stiff and favourable, 
 so that our craft resembled something like a boat race 
 the whole way. We reached the harbour of Bombay 
 on the morning of the fourth day, where we remained 
 on board our respective pattamars for a few days, 
 awaiting orders. One night, the men being all fast 
 asleep, with the exception of three, besides myself, the 
 beauty of the bay, with the moon shining forth upon 
 it with all her splendour, tempted us to make use of 
 our small boat to have a sail upon its glossy surface. 
 We were fiirnished with two old paddles, or oars, 
 which served our purpose well enough, as long as we 
 kept going along >vith the tide; but, on endeavouring 
 to return, more strength was required to be put to the 
 oars. One of them, in the hands of a great brawny 
 Irishman, who was working by the rule of main 
 strength and stupidity, snapped in the centre, thus 
 leaving us with only one paddle, and drifting out to 
 sea at the rate of three or four miles an hour. A short 
 time served to carry us beyond the shipping, when one 
 of our number jocosely remarked that we were off to 
 Europe now in earnest. Another replied, " But where 
 are our rations." I observed that this was certainly no 
 time 'for jesting, and proposed that we should shout 
 with all our might, which might bring some friendly 
 boat to our rescue; so we commenced doing so voci- 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 123 
 
 ferously, but to no purpose, echo being the only re- 
 sponse. At last we came in sight of a native craft 
 lying at anchor, towards which we were fast approach- 
 ing, and, with the aid of our remaining oar, I suc- 
 ceeded in bringing to under the vessel's bow; but, to 
 my consternation, there was nothing here by which I 
 could hold on, and we were rapidly passing this our 
 last resource, when I observed a native looking over 
 the side, to whom I held up the oar, which he readily 
 seized, thus intending to arrest the progress of our 
 boat; but the hurry and confusion, together with my 
 attempt to hold on by the other end of the oar, caused 
 me to overbalance myself, and I rolled headlong into 
 the sea. Here I was in a most perilous position, 
 enhanced by being a poor swimmer. However, I 
 contrived to keep my head above water until 1 was 
 picked up by a boat's crew from the craft. This they 
 executed most expeditiously, and then set out after 
 my forlorn comrades, whose hearts, on our approach, 
 bounded with joy. They were taken in tow, and we 
 were shortly deposited on board their vessel. At 
 daybreak they weighed anchor, and put into harbour, 
 and we were ultimately safely lodged on board our 
 own pattamar, resolving never again to venture to sea 
 in so frail a bark. 
 
 On the following evening we received orders to 
 proceed to Ahmednuggur, east from Bombay one 
 hundred and eighty-one miles. Small boats accom- 
 panied the order, to convey the men up the creek to 
 Panwell, into which they were quickly transferred, 
 and moved off, I being left behind to deliver over the 
 surplus stores, with orders to join my company at the 
 latter mentioned place, on the following evening. 
 After arranging my stores, in readiness to land them 
 
124 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 in the morning, I dressed and went ashore. By this 
 time it was pretty late. On strolling up the street, 
 the first thing that attracted my attention was a 
 drunk British sailor, surrounded hy the police, who 
 had him lying upon his face, with his hands and feet 
 tied like a wild beast. On my approach they 
 stepped aside, and said if I would take him away they 
 would set him at liberty. To this I acceded, intending 
 to take him on board, and keep him with me until he 
 got sober; but before I had proceeded many paces 
 with him, he became so very unruly and abusive that 
 I was forced to give him over to the police again. 
 Shortly after this I met with another sailor, in a 
 similar condition, to whom I also made an offer of 
 protection, but to no purpose. 
 
 The name of a British sailor carries with it some 
 importance in the eyes of those who are acquainted 
 with their true character; for Jack is distinctly one 
 man when sober, and another when drunk. A more 
 obliging, warm-hearted, and hard-working class of 
 men are not to be found; and it is painful to see them 
 so far degrading themselves in presence of foreigners, 
 who are ignorant of their good qualities. We find 
 the sailors, while at home, conducting themselves like 
 other men; and why not so abroad? The fact is, 
 they look upon the natives oi India as nobody, and 
 are consequently careless of what they do in their 
 presence ; indeed, the common reply, from both 
 soldiers and sailors, when remonstrated with by their 
 better-thinking comrades, is "Who cares for them 
 black negros !*' Now, a more absurd idea was never 
 fostered in the mind of man. I can only say, from 
 long experience amongst these people, I have usually 
 found them to be exceedingly acute in their observa- 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 125 
 
 tions, and in noticing the merits and demerits of 
 others, but more especially of Europeans, who arro- 
 gate to themselves the superiority of possessing more 
 refined habits, and of being born in a Christian land. 
 Such individuals as these, whether soldiers or sailors, 
 have tended materially to counteract any good effect 
 which was likely to arise from the laudable efforts of 
 the missionaries. Indeed that cause is hopeless in 
 India, until a better example is set the natives by 
 those who call themselves Christians. I have often 
 heard it remarked, and very reasonably too, " In 
 what consists the Christian's boasted superiority? 
 Look at your soldiers and sailors lying drunk, and 
 wallowing in the mire in the public bazaar, like so 
 many pigs; you do not see any of our people in that 
 state." Drunkenness is an abomination in the eyes 
 of all right-thinking men, but in none more than in 
 those of the natives of India, many of whom never 
 taste intoxicating liquors. The soldier should not 
 only avoid this evil, which is the forerunner of all 
 crime, but he should use every means in his power 
 to suppress it in others, if it were only for the credit 
 of the country that gave them birth. 
 
 When one has succeeded in gaining the confidence 
 of the natives, he has no difficulty in being supplied 
 with any articles he may require, whether it is con- 
 venient to pay cash for them or not. When they find 
 a man honestly disposed they \vill almost force goods 
 upon him. But to return to my narrative. 
 
 Finding nothing particular in the fort to interest 
 me at this late hour, I strolled, as if it were by in- 
 stinct, out to the graveyard, situated adjacent to a 
 toddy top (a cocoa nut wood), on the outskirts of 
 Dongaree. The gate being shut was no obstacle to 
 m2 
 
126 A soldier's life IX INDIA. 
 
 a willing heart. I had little difficulty in tracing out 
 the spot which contained the remains of her who once 
 was all the world to me; and on the cold grave I 
 seated myself, and fell into a deep reverie, from which 
 I was awakened only by the firing of the gun at day- 
 break. I then hastened to the bunder or wharf, and 
 ([uickly gave over my stores, and proceeded to Fort 
 George barracks. This being Christmas day, all 
 was mirth and jollity. I was recognised on all hands, 
 and invited to drink with every one. This annoyed 
 me so much that I left abruptly; and in the 
 evening I went on board of a small boat, proceeded 
 up the creek to Panwell, distant twenty miles, and 
 joined my company just as they were beginning to 
 prepare for the morning's march. 
 
 Two days' march, or about twenty-four miles, over 
 a splendid road, dotted with milestones — a thing not 
 common in India — brought us to the village of Cam- 
 powli, situated at the foot of the range of mountains 
 known by the name of the Ghauts. We passed 
 through a very beautiful country, among hills that 
 form the outskirts of the Ghauts ; rich valleys, now 
 wide, now narrow, enclosed by amphitheatres of hi]ls, 
 some wooded to the top, and others exposing their 
 weather-beaten rocky summits to the skies, through 
 which small streams (though torrents in the rainy 
 season) wind tbeir way to the sea. 
 
 Next morning we ascended the Ghauts by a zig- 
 zag road, five miles from bottom to top. It is impos- 
 sible here to describe the exquisite beauty of the land- 
 scape. High mountains, and bold projecting rocks, 
 overhang deep woods of trees unknown to Europeans. 
 Flowering shrubs of most delicious perfume, and creep- 
 ing plants, of every varied hue, form natural bowers, 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 127 
 
 as they hang from tree to tree, together with frightfiil 
 precipices, strike the traveller with amazement at 
 every step. 
 
 The next place of note on our route is the cele- 
 brated caves of Carlee, situated near the top of a 
 mountain covered with jungle, and commanding one 
 of the finest prospects in the world. The great cave, 
 which is hewn out of the solid rock, may be compared 
 to a Gothic cathedral, forty paces in length and fifteen 
 in breadth, with a coved roof supported by twenty-one 
 pillars on each side, and terminating in a semicircle. 
 There are no sculptures within the cavern, except on 
 the capitals of the pillars, which exhibit figures of ele- 
 phants with two riders on each. The great cave of 
 Carlee is really a most magnificent chamber, both as 
 to proportion and workmanship. 
 
 Poonah, the Mahratta capital, ninety-eight miles 
 from Bombay, is the next place of interest; but as this 
 ancient city is situated about six miles to the right 
 of the direct road, we only obtained a distant view 
 of it. 
 
 The whole route to Ahmednuggur, completed by us 
 in fifteen marches, is particularly enlivened by beauti- 
 ful scenery, excellent roads with milestones, and a 
 hotel at almost every village. On reaching Seroon, a 
 pretty little town, and military station on a small 
 scale, three marches from our destination, I was 
 agreeably surprised at meeting with none other than 
 my worthy friend of the Sappers and Miners, the same 
 individual who visited me in Fort George barracks at 
 the time of the eventful affair of the trousers with the 
 knot on the leg. He had, ere this, attained a respect- 
 able position, and had taken to himself a help-mate ; 
 he conducted me to his house, where I was treated 
 
128 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 with the greatest kindness, until it was time for me 
 to set out on the next morning's march. 
 
 On our arrival at Ahmednuggur, I met with many 
 old acquaintances, such as those who were my ship- 
 mates in coming out from England ; and, amongst 
 the rest, the individual who gulled us to such an ex- 
 tent with his fabricated stories. On reminding him 
 of this, the only excuse he had to make was, that he 
 found us readier to believe fiction than facts. I also 
 again came in contact with my chum Jamie, from 
 whom, I should have before stated, I was separated on 
 proceeding to Bhooj. 
 
 The military lines here present a lively appearance, 
 consisting of a double row of detached one storey build- 
 ings, each surrounded by a spacious veranda, so that 
 the soldier can walk round the outside of his barrack- 
 room without being exposed to either sun or rain . The 
 married people are accommodated in cottages with small 
 gardens, situated a short distance to the right of the 
 barracks, and called the patcharee, where the married 
 soldier enjoys the society of his wife and little ones en- 
 tirely free from the revelry of a barrack-room. 
 
 A little farther on we find the military bazaar, 
 where everything is sold that the men can require. 
 Distant about four miles, and situated on the top of 
 a hill, stands a large stone building, commonly called 
 " the old woman's house." 
 
 On the plain in front of the barracks stands the fort, 
 a place of considerable strength, enclosing the church, 
 together with some other buildings occupied as de- 
 positories for military stores. The " pitty," a large 
 town, is still farther to the front, and is surrounded by a 
 strong mud wall. Again, to the left, and after pass- 
 ing our hospital, the gholander, or native artillery 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 129 
 
 lines, &c., we reach a grove of trees, in the centre of 
 which stands the Great Mogul's palace. This is a 
 favourable resort with our men, not only to view 
 the scenery, and the antique appearance of the 
 structure, but, as silkworms are kept in it, to 
 witness these wonderful insects at their industrial 
 work. 
 
 Our out offices are in rear of the barracks, includ- 
 ing a most magnificent racket-court — a perfect treat 
 to those fond of ball playing. The ground farther 
 back is studded with officers' bungaloes (houses), 
 and, for miles round, it is pretty level, dotted here 
 and there with pagodas and tombs. There is also a 
 great portion of the country under cultivation, which 
 causes food of every description to be remarkably 
 cheap. 
 
 I was promoted to the rank of sergeant shortly after 
 my arrival at this station, and, subsequently, to that 
 of pay-sergeant. In reference to cheapness of food, I 
 can only say, that in the non-commissioned officers' 
 mess, we paid at the rate of one pound per month, 
 for which we had a table covered every day, in variety, 
 quality, and quantity, fit for the best gentlemen in 
 the land. Indeed, I have seen more carried from the 
 table than what had been consumed. The gunners 
 paid about half the above sum, and fared little worse. 
 
 There is a glen of extraordinary depth situated 
 about ten or twelve miles from the barracks, which 
 our men styled •' happy valley," and is a favourite re- 
 sort of pic-nic parties, who obtain a few days' 
 leave to enjoy a change from the monotony of a 
 barrack-room life. I once visited this place, and I 
 have certainly some reason to remember the event. 
 One day, immediately after dinner, feeling at a loss 
 
130 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 for something to amuse us, a comrade sergeant pro- 
 posed that we should set out for " happy valley." A 
 couple of tattoos (ponies) were quickly brought from 
 the bazaar, and we started at a pace which soon 
 brought us to our destination, when we dismounted, 
 and began to explore the valley. For magnitude 
 and grandeur of scenery, it proved all and more than 
 we anticipated, containing caves and creeks in which 
 the hermit might find seclusion suitable to his taste. 
 The day soon began to close, and the setting sun 
 warned us to retrace our steps. I was no sooner 
 seated in the saddle than I observed our ponies to ex- 
 hibit signs of great fatigue, which I attributed to the 
 rapid rate at which we had ridden them, enhanced, 
 as I fancied, by some work they might have done be- 
 fore they were put into our hands; and, fearing that 
 they would break down ere we reached home, I dis- 
 mounted, and advised my friend to do the same ; but 
 he declined, saying that he paid for the pony, and he 
 was determined to take the value of his money out of 
 him. 
 
 I proceeded along on foot for some time, but the 
 night becoming very dark, I thought of again mount- 
 ing. However, the animal seemed to possess instinct 
 enough to know that he was better without me, for 
 in attempting to lay hold of him, he threw up his 
 heels, started across the country, and was out of 
 sight in an instant, leaving me no other alternative 
 than to foot it home. I desired my comrade to push 
 forward, and I would follow; but, to our great con- 
 sternation, we soon discovered that we had lost the 
 road, and, it being the close of the monsoons, we 
 were constantly getting up to the knees in pools of 
 water, some of which were as large as tanks. In en- 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 131 
 
 deavouring to avoid them we were led still farther 
 astray. My state of excitement was now beyond all 
 bounds. Being a young sergeant, and feeling proud 
 of my position, I dreaded the consequence of being re- 
 ported absent; besides, as I was now in the lead, 
 pushing forward at all hazards, I was in danger of 
 losing my life in some water-pit. At last we reached 
 a few huts, into one of which I rushed, and found it full 
 of women, together with an infirm old man ; the former 
 screamed and ran out, and no wonder, for I must have 
 been a fright to look at, having been, on several oc- 
 casions, up to the middle in water. The latter I 
 seized, and demanded that he should show me the 
 road : he urged that he was not able to walk; but I 
 was too desperate to admit of any excuse, so I drag- 
 ged him out, and he showed me enough to convince 
 me that we were close to the walls of the " pitty," but 
 on the extreme side from our barracks. Being now 
 put on the right road, we made all speed round the 
 walls of the city, and reached home just as the bugles 
 began to sound tattoo. I quickly divested myself of 
 my wet and bespattered clothes, and was just in time 
 to appear with my company at roll call, and all was 
 right so far. But my difficulties were not yet at an 
 end. A demand was made upon me for the pony, or 
 the value of it; consequently, I engaged three natives, 
 and despatched them in search of the ungrateful brute, 
 whose signs of fatigue were nothing more than the 
 effects of being kept standing in one position for a 
 length of time after so smart a ride. 
 
 However, my anxiety about the pony was quickly 
 turned into mirth by a snuffy individual, in the capa- 
 city of park and store sergeant, who had come over 
 from the fort to have a night's booze in the canteen, 
 
132 
 
 and who entered the small room occupied by my 
 fellow-excursionist and me, and eagerly seized a box 
 of tooth-powder, which was lying convenient, saying, 
 " I am glad you have got snuif, as I have lost my 
 box." He crammed two hearty pinches up his nose 
 ere we had time to inform him of its contents. He 
 then began to entertain us with a recital of former 
 events, or, in other words, to fight his battles over 
 again for our edification, every now and again helping 
 himself to another pinch. His frontispiece soon be- 
 came so besmeared with the black powder, Avhich was 
 chiefly composed of ground charcoal, that to command 
 our gravity was impossible. The noise of our mirth 
 brought others in to join in the jest, and the box was 
 quickly handed round, each, of course, pretending to 
 take a pinch before they lodged it in the hands of our 
 worthy entertainer, and it was not until he had nearly 
 finished the whole contents that he discovered the 
 cheat. Then he opened upon us and called us every 
 opprobrious epithet that his imagination could invent, 
 saying that we had taken the snuff out of the box and 
 substituted pounded charcoal, and, said he, " Did you 
 really think that I would not know the difference ? 
 Aha ! I am too old a soldier to be done by a set of 
 plumpers" (recruits). 
 
 But to return to the pony ; after being two days 
 absent, the natives brought him in minus the saddle, 
 alleging that it was detained as compensation for 
 damage the animal had done to the crops. I had 
 next to forward money to release the saddle, so, on 
 the whole, my excursion to the " happy valley" proved 
 more expensive than pleasant. 
 
 The highly efficient state of the native army excites 
 wonder and admiration, particularly when we reflect 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 133 
 
 on the character of the people. Labouring under the 
 constraint of caste, bigotry, and superstition, which ren- 
 der them rigidly averse to the European habit; prefer- 
 ring to have their feet shod with sandals, or shoes down 
 in the heels, with long turned up toes, to the best Europe 
 manufactured boots or shoes; and wearing their 
 beards as long as Jews, with strings of beads round 
 the neck in place of a stock, and the hair put up with 
 various combs, so as to prevent the possibility of getting 
 a regimental cap upon the head, — considering these 
 obstacles, looked upon at one time as almost insur- 
 mountable, we can only admire the dauntless and 
 persevering spirit of the British officers, who have 
 gradually overcome them all, and ultimately suc- 
 ceeded in having the native army as well organised, 
 equipped, and disciplined, as any European regiment ; 
 and as to military appearance (save and except the 
 dark complexion), nothing can surpass them. I 
 would instance the gholandars (native artillery), 
 whose average height can be little short of five feet 
 10 inches, though many of them are above six feet; 
 and, as I have been frequently on the same battery 
 with them at practice, I can vouch for their efficiency 
 in that respect. Indeed, were I to say that they did 
 not make as good practice as we did, either with shot 
 or shell, I would be doing them injustice. And it 
 must be borne in mind that the Honourable Com- 
 pany's European artillery, from the opportunities they 
 have for practice, are second to none. 
 
 And, again, there are our six feet grenadier regi- 
 ments, a credit to the service, whose deeds of bravery 
 are proverbial throughout India. But, above all, we 
 have the native cavalry, yvith their handsome sky blue 
 uniform, martial helmets, broad shoulders, and small 
 
 N 
 
134 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 waists, many of them perfect models of men, mounted 
 upon their spirited Arabian steeds, presenting a war- 
 like appearance not easily to be surpassed. 
 
 Recruits are not taken in the most ordinary infantry 
 corps under five feet seven, and in some regiments 
 not below five feet eight inches. The sepoys seem 
 happy and contented, and appear proud of the military 
 profession, so that there is no difficulty in obtaining 
 recruits to almost any extent, although there is no 
 bounty given as an inducement to enter the service. 
 
 The mode of attesting or swearing in these men is 
 somewhat singular. The regiment forms a square 
 with the colours crossed in the centre, under which 
 the recruits are formed up, and sworn never to desert 
 their colours. The native regimental schoolmasters 
 administer the oath. The rule of faith used for the 
 Mussulman being the Koran, and for the Hindoos, a 
 little water from some sacred river, such as the Gunga 
 (Ganges). However ridiculous this oath may appear 
 in our eyes, it seems to have more effect upon their 
 conscience than the usual oath taken by Christians, 
 for it is rare indeed that any of them desert, and, 
 from their temperate habits, they are easily managed. 
 Although their pay does not amount to more than half 
 the sum given to the European soldier, many of them 
 save money, their wants being easily supplied. On 
 the whole, the sepoys form an army highly creditable 
 to the service; every European soldier should feel 
 proud of their co-operation, and not look upon them 
 with contempt, as is too often the case. 
 
 One night, immediately after tattoo, a hue and cry 
 was raised that there was a bear in the lines, and a 
 number of the boys, who were at all times ready for 
 anything in the shape of sport, sallied forth to give 
 
13.5 
 
 Bruin a warm reception. The bear, however, seemed 
 to shun the attack, as he set off at full speed, and they 
 after him round by the back of the patcharee, where 
 the ground was very irregular, being full of nullas 
 and prickly-pear bushes, into which, from the eager- 
 ness of the chase, and the darkness of the night, the 
 men tumbled in half dozens. At last Bruin turned to 
 the right, and took refuge in an officer's bungalow. 
 The occupant, alarmed at seeing his premises about 
 to be stormed in so formidable a manner — the pur- 
 suers having rallied round the house in every direc- 
 tion, to cut oflf any chance of escape — rushed out, 
 shouting "What is the matter, men; what is the mat- 
 ter?" "A bear, Sir," simultaneously exclaimed a 
 dozen almost breathless voices. " A bear," replied 
 the officer ; " go home to your beds, you set of fools ; 
 it is my bear, and a tame one, that would not injure 
 any of you." Chagrined and disappointed at this unex- 
 pected rebuff, they slowly retraced their steps, pick- 
 ing up their wounded from amongst the nullas and 
 bushes, from the prickles of the latter many of them 
 being severely punished. Smarting and bleeding, 
 they were conveyed to their respective barrack-rooms. 
 But here the affair did not end ; for next morning, 
 while the battalion was parading, an extraordinary 
 number of men were found wanting, who were 
 answered for by their comrades as being sick. This, 
 at first, led to the supposition that the cholera, or 
 some malignant fever, had broken out ; but it was 
 soon told that they were chasing the bear last night. 
 As a matter of course, they were all ordered off to 
 the hospital ; and, presently, they began to emerge 
 from their quarters in groups of four or five, present- 
 ing a true picture of the lame leading the blind. 
 
136 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 However, after undergoing a rather tedious and deli- 
 cate process in the way of extracting prickles, they 
 all, in due time, returned to their duty, and got well 
 laughed and scoffed at, and were, for long afterwards, 
 stigmatized as the bear hunters. 
 
 After a residence of about eighteen months at this 
 station, we were again ordered to Bombay. And as 
 I have before given a short description of the road, 
 &c., I shall now confine myself to such incidents as 
 occurred on the way. 
 
 Having occasion, one morning, to march along with 
 the baggage, and thinking that I might have a shot on 
 the way, I got my fowling-piece put in order, and 
 placed upon a hackray (cart), which contained little 
 more than my own luggage and the company's books, 
 and desired it to be detained behind all others, so as 
 I might meet with no interruption. At day-break, I 
 went some little distance from the cart in search of 
 game ; but I was soon alarmed by a wild cry from 
 the driver, which caused me to run to his assistance, 
 thinking, as he had been nodding and sleeping all 
 morning, that he had fallen under the wheel. But I 
 was more than surprised to find three natives, almost 
 in a state of nudity, with their dark oily skins glitter- 
 ing in the rising sun, all upon the cart ransacking it, 
 and the driver away along the road, running for his 
 life. It was the work of a moment for me to bring 
 the piece to my shoulder, and give them its contents ; 
 and, although small shot, it seemed to tell pretty 
 sweetly upon the naked skin, particularly of one of 
 them, who was in a stooping position, with his back 
 towards me, and at whose nether parts I took my 
 aim. However, the shot had the desired effect, as 
 they made one bound off the cart, and were soon out 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 137 
 
 of sight, without carrying anything with them. The 
 driver now returned, and gave me many salaams : he 
 resumed his position, and we moved on without being 
 further molested. Such depredations were not un- 
 common upon this road at one time, but it is now 
 perfectly safe, perhaps through such examples as I 
 met with a little farther on — namely, three natives 
 hanging on gibbets, and the grease dropping out of 
 them from the heat of the sun. 
 
 As we rested two days opposite Poonah, I embraced 
 the opportunity of visiting this ancient city, more for 
 the purpose, however, of seeing my worthy friend, 
 Johnny Bain, whose regiment was stationed there, 
 than for any desire to see the town. Poor fellow, I 
 found him reduced from the rank of sergeant through 
 his old and only fault, want of firmness. His heart 
 filled the moment he saw me. I remained with him 
 all that night, and next day we visited some of the 
 principal places of the city. But I am prevented from 
 saying anything in the way of description, as I find I 
 am far outstretching the bounds intended for my nar- 
 rative ; so I must pass on by simply saying that 
 Poonah is a splendid place, and is an excellent station 
 for troops, being very healthy, and provisions very 
 cheap. It is headquarters for our horse artillery, or 
 gentlemen soldiers, as some people are pleased to call 
 them, styled so, no doubt, from their fancy uniform, 
 together with their being allowed gora-wallahs (horse 
 keepers), to groom their horses, and Lascars to clean 
 their guns. Natives being thus allowed, and paid for 
 by Government, to do the rough work for both horse 
 and foot artillery, renders the life of the soldier both 
 easy and comfortable, and, of course, gives them an 
 air of importance ; but there is one thing certain, 
 
 n2 
 
138 A soldier's life is ixdia. 
 
 they cannot be called feather-bed soldiers, as they are 
 ever able and ready for their work in the field, and 
 can do it in a manner that has never yet been sur- 
 passed, scarcely equalled. 
 
 At last we arrived safely in our old quarters, Fort 
 George barracks, and at a time, too, when the streets 
 were particularly enlivened by numerous processions 
 going about from sunset to sunrise, with tom-toms 
 (small drums), kettle drums, pipes, vins citarrs, and 
 a large brazen trumpet, which requires two persons 
 to carry it, the whole making the most horrible noise 
 ever heard ; this, together with the picturesque 
 dresses of the dancing girls, and their graceful atti- 
 tudes, the numerous torches and fire-works which 
 brilliantly light up the scene, makes one almost fancy 
 himself transported to fairy land. 
 
 But the greatest annual procession that takes place 
 is what is usually called cocoa-nut day. It is held 
 at the close of the monsoons, in token of the sea hav- 
 ing become navigable. About an hour before sunset 
 an immense concourse of people assemble towards the 
 beach, where they have booths erected, with all kinds 
 of commodities for sale. The wealthy natives appear 
 in their carriages, and the display of jewels and pearls 
 is astonishing. At sunset, one of the chief Brah- 
 mins advances to the water's edge, and throws in a 
 gilt cocoa-nut, and immediately thousands of people 
 follow his example, every one being eager to make 
 their offering, until the water becomes literally 
 covered with cocoa-nuts. Then follows music, danc- 
 ing, tumbling, juggling, and tame snake exhibiting. 
 The tumblers (particularly the women), for strength 
 and agility surpass any of the kind I ever saw, and 
 the tricks of the jugglers are truly marvellous. The 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 139 
 
 snakes are made to rise on their tails, spread their 
 hoods, advance, retreat, hiss, and pretend to bite at 
 the word of command. Snakes are held in great 
 veneration by the natives, particularly the cobra de 
 capella ; so that they will not suffer them to be de- 
 stroyed when it is in their power to prevent it. 
 
 The Mahomedan procession, or festival, celebrated 
 in honour of the young martyrs Hossein and Houssien, 
 sons of Ali, is the most gorgeous affair of the kind 
 that we witness in India. The people are divided 
 into many parties, each endeavouring to have the 
 most gorgeous tazuh, or tomb. To defray the ex- 
 pense of these, they go about soliciting money for 
 weeks before the time of meeting, one of their 
 number being enveloped in something like a tiger's 
 skin, w^ith an enormous long tail, which is held 
 up by a man who dodges behind the individual so 
 disguised, while he is on his hands and feet, perform- 
 ing a variety of antics, and acting the wild beast in a 
 very creditable manner. This performance, of course, 
 is accompanied by music. The tombs, though very 
 gay, are nothing more than a light frame-work, 
 covered with gilt paper or silk, of the most showy 
 colours, and vary in size and grandeur, according to 
 the finances of the party; there are, however, some- 
 times costly ornaments attached to them. They are 
 made square, with a suitable tower at each corner, 
 and a domed top, frequently crowned by a globe, and 
 the largest may be about six yards each way. They 
 are carried in procession, with torches, music, and 
 dancing, through the streets for a number of nights. 
 To obtain the precedency sometimes leads to serious 
 riots, which call for the interference of the civil 
 magistrates, who order out a strong body of sepoys 
 
140 
 
 to keep the peace. The procession is sometimes 
 headed by a platform, gorgeously hung with silk 
 drapery, and bearing upon it a few dancing girls, per- 
 forming their graceful attitudes. This affair is 
 brought to a close by a day procession, when they 
 proceed to the sea, or river, as the case may be, and 
 after a protracted ceremony, amidst the deafening 
 sounds of drums and trumpets, the tombs are im- 
 mersed in the water, and there abandoned. 
 
 There is another procession, of a very ludicrous 
 character, which I have noticed, particularly in the 
 city of Surat, where I subsequently sojourned for 
 some time. It is composed solely of Fakeers, a kind 
 of begging priests, who go about in as near a state to 
 nudity as possible, having nothing on them but a 
 handkerchief, or rag, tied across their loins, and not 
 spread out wider than is required for a man's neck. 
 Their hair is long and matted, and their bodies 
 besmeared over vrith ashes. Generally speaking, 
 they are stout and muscular, no doubt arising from 
 the lazy, negligent life they lead. In their proces- 
 sions, a few of their number who take the precedency 
 are mounted on horseback, and the others follow on 
 foot, with long bamboos in their hands. At the 
 close of the procession they sit down to a feast, cooked 
 for them in the open air, and of which they liberally 
 partake, without the aid of a single table utensil. 
 The solids are served out on leaves of trees, and the 
 fluids in cups formed of the same, and fastened to- 
 gether with long prickles. 
 
 The fish at Bombay, and all along the coast, are 
 excellent. The pamflets, for instance, something like 
 our flounders, but much thicker, are delicious. The 
 bumbelos, which resemble large sand-eels, are dried 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 141 
 
 in the sun, and tied up in bunches, and fonvarded to 
 many parts of the country. They are excellent for 
 breakfast, with kedgeree, a dish of rice and dol (split 
 countr}^ peas), and coloured with turmerick. The 
 shrimps are very large, and of excellent flavour. We 
 are also blessed in India with abundance of choice 
 vegetables all the year round, both from European 
 and country seed. European potatoes, cabbage, car- 
 rots, and turnips, are now produced in abundance; 
 but I always preferred the country vegetables. The 
 sweet potatoes, bringaal and bendy, were great 
 favourites of mine. The latter is about the length 
 and thickness of a person's finger, or rather larger, is 
 full of round seeds, and, when boiled, is soft and 
 mucilaginous. It is an excellent ingredient in curries 
 or soups, though it seemed to me best plain boiled. 
 
 There is a kind of cress, called badgie, to which I 
 would wish to draw the attention of those newly 
 arriving in the country, as it has a peculiar tendency 
 to regulate the bowels. As the climate at first 
 frequently produces severe costiveness, by using a 
 little of this cress every day to dinner, or as often as 
 required, it would obviate the disagreeable necessity 
 of taking medicine. It is cooked like greens, gi-ows 
 wild in abundance during the rainy season, and is at 
 other times cultivated as a pot-herb. 
 
 Nothing can surpass the medical treatment of 
 soldiers in India. Every comfort is provided for them 
 when sick. The unwearied attention of the surgeons 
 has often produced in me feelings of the deepest in- 
 terest and admiration. It must be a source of great 
 comfort and consolation to the sick soldier to know 
 that his life is particularly cared for, seeing that every 
 effort is made by the best educated gentlemen in the 
 
142 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 country to restore him to his wonted health and 
 strength. If men were as careful in endeavouring 
 to preserve their own health as the doctors are in 
 endeavouring to restore it to them when sick, the 
 mortality list would soon become greatly reduced. 
 
 But how often do we find a man, while in the act 
 of examining the interior of his watch, taking care to 
 keep it as far from his mouth as possible, lest his 
 breath should injure the machinery, whilst he is not 
 afraid, day after day, to pour down his own throat 
 numerous glasses of spirits, although he may be con- 
 scious that it is eating into the vital parts of his own 
 machinery, and must, sooner or later, bring him to a 
 premature grave, with all the burning pangs of a self- 
 destroyer upon his head. Can there be anything up- 
 on earth more preposterous than this ? What, in the 
 name of common sense, is the value of a watch, or 
 ten thousand watches, in comparison to the man's 
 constitution ? When it is totally gone, all that the 
 world can produce is nothing more to him than the 
 dirt that fills up his grave ! But awful as a case of 
 this kind must be in a single man, how much more so 
 must it be with the married man, who has a wife, 
 and a number of helpless children depending upon 
 him for support, while he is languishing upon a death- 
 bed, from disease brought on by his own imprudence; 
 and hearing his helpless offspring, calling out to a 
 care-worn and heart-broken mother, for bread, while 
 she has none to give them ? Although we have no 
 opportunity of witnessing a scene so heart-rending in 
 India, as such could not for a moment be tolerated in 
 the army, yet it is nevertheless true that such scenes 
 are of too frequent occurrence amongst the working 
 classes in our own country. 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 143 
 
 The diseases in the east are generally not danger- 
 ous, when the proper remedies are applied in time ; 
 but it is too often the case that a man goes about for 
 weeks, with, say liver complaint upon him, whilst 
 the only medicine he takes to assuage the pain 
 is brandy or arrack. This may stupify the sys- 
 tem, and give momentary relief, but, in reality, is 
 only adding fuel to the flame. At last he awakes 
 some morning with an excruciating pain in his side, 
 which renders him unable to move, and he can conceal 
 his complaint no longer. A dooley is sent for, and 
 he is conveyed to hospital. The doctor seems 
 alarmed at the symptoms of his new patient, and cen- 
 sures him for not coming to hospital sooner ; but the 
 deed is done, and cannot be recalled, and, in all pro- 
 bability, the patient never comes out alive, or, if he does, 
 it can only be with an impaired constitution. Hence 
 the necessity of instantly applying for medical aid. 
 
 Again, I have known old soldiers to get drunk, as 
 a cure for various complaints, and recommend the 
 same cure to others. Now they may just as well say 
 when a house is on fire at one end, the best way to 
 extinguish it is to set fire to it at the other. 
 
 Seeing, then, as we must all see, that we can enjoy 
 nothing in this life without health, and knowing that 
 ardent spirits kill more men than the cholera, or any 
 other malignant disease, is it not our bounden duty 
 to avoid this great enemy of mankind, and to use 
 every means in our power to preserve health ? A six 
 days' debauch will bring a man nearer his grave than 
 a six months' campaign. As man was made to 
 labour, he is capable of enduring great fatigue ; but 
 his " inside " was never made proof against the evil 
 efl^ects of liquor, which have all the opposite influ- 
 
144 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 ences to that regimen which is necessary to sustain 
 the human frame. 
 
 I know it is the desire of all good soldiers, who 
 think of the future, to serve out their full period of 
 time (twenty-one years), and retire on a good pension. 
 It is true that many prefer remaining in the country, 
 but the greater number are anxious to return home, 
 in a better condition than when they left, and spend 
 the remainder of their days in peace and comfort. 
 Now there is but one course by which they can 
 reasonably hope to attain this desired end, and that 
 is by living temperate in all things; excesses, of any 
 description, being ruinous. Let them be respectful and 
 obedient, and study to become proficient in the duties 
 of a soldier; also, improve the mind, so as to become fit 
 for some respectable situation in civil life. This 
 course will assuredly bring its own reward. Promo- 
 tion v^dll rapidly follow, and the individual so acting 
 will find himself at the end of his service in a respec- 
 table position. It may be said that there cannot be 
 promotion for every one. In reply to this I can only 
 say that I have already pointed out the numerous 
 openings for deserving men in the Honourable Com- 
 pany's service, and further state that there are more 
 promoted than really deserve it. 
 
 The commanding ofiicer of a native regiment once 
 asked me if I could recommend two men to him, to 
 fill the places of his sergeant-major and quarter-mas- 
 ter-sergeant, who had just left him for better situa- 
 tions. I replied in the negative, but added, " Sir, if 
 you apply in the usual way, they will soon send you 
 two." His reply was, "I will rather do without them 
 than take chance of such as they are likely to send 
 me." I held a better situation at the time, or nothing 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 145 
 
 would have given me more pleasure than to have 
 served under this officer, as I knew him to be a 
 true fi'iend to a good soldier. 
 
 Having briefly endeavoured to show the evil of in- 
 temperance, I will now instance a case or two by 
 way of proving what good may be done by drunkards 
 becoming teetotal, or even temperate. The first that 
 I will bring to the notice of the reader is that of an 
 individual who was looked upon as one of the great- 
 est drunkards in the regiment, and, consequently, 
 was seldom out of trouble. He was induced, on one 
 occasion, to go over to the library to hear a temper- 
 ance lecture, and the first impression it produced on 
 his mind was, that it was only a scheme got up to de- 
 prive the soldier of the comfort of his glass. How- 
 ever, the lecturer at last pointed out cases where 
 men, though once great drunkards, were prospering 
 in the world since they became temperate. This 
 seemed to strike him in the right quarter. He re- 
 turned to the barrack-room, stretched himself upon 
 his cot, and began to think seriously if it were not 
 possible for him to become like one of these men. 
 A strong resolution was instantly formed, and he 
 afterwards as much detested as he once had loved 
 the dram ; and, like the prodigal son in the parable, 
 he was soon better treated than if he had never of- 
 fended. Promotion rapidly followed, and I had the 
 pleasure of seeing him, some twelve years afterwards, 
 in his native country, a conductor on two years' fur- 
 lough. But home to him seemed to have lost all its 
 charms, as he only remained a few months, when he 
 again returned to India, where he is still serving, and 
 a more respectable man is not to be found in the 
 same capacity. 
 
 
 
146 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 Another individual of some talent, but a devoted 
 worshipper of Bacchus, was sitting over the glass one 
 night with a few of his drunken associates, discuss- 
 ing the affairs of the regiment, and ridiculing some 
 who had just been promoted. At last he started up, 
 and solemnly declared that he would be promoted 
 himself before that day two years. His companions 
 laughed at him ; but he instantly left them, and be- 
 became a teetotaller, and, ere the two years expired, he 
 was a stafP sergeant. This individual is also still in 
 India, but I am told he is free from the army, and 
 prospering in civil life. 
 
 European marriages in India seem to be more of a 
 speculative character, or a matter of convenience, 
 than anything else ; or, perhaps, it is marry first, and 
 love afterwards. Young ladies frequently arrive 
 from England in expectation of obtaining wealthy 
 husbands, and it is not uncommon to see a girl of six- 
 teen years getting married to an old gentleman of 
 sixty. Old soldiers sometimes get coupled to girls 
 that were not in existence for years after they arrived 
 in the country. And again, it is quite common for a 
 young soldier to marry a woman old enough to be his 
 mother. It is needless to say that these matrimonial 
 engagements do not at all times lead to the felicity 
 anticipated. 
 
 I knew a young woman here, of very prepossessing 
 appearance, about seventeen years of age, whose par- 
 ents died when she was very young, leaving her heir 
 to a considerable sum, which she was to inherit 
 on attaining majority. A man belonging to our 
 regiment, who had formerly led a profligate life, but 
 who, at the time referred to, seemed to have reformed 
 his habits, contrived to ingratiate himself into her 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 147 
 
 good graces. A short courtship ensued, and they 
 were married. Broils and quarrels followed each 
 other, and the result was, that she frequently left her 
 home for weeks together, in search of comfort else- 
 where. During her temporary absence on one of 
 these occasions, he contrived to get possession of her 
 cash, and, at the same time, succeeded in getting 
 himself invalided — a matter in which he could have 
 no difficulty, owing to the emaciated state of his 
 frame, arising from a long course of intemperance. 
 Being ignorant of the regular system of transmitting 
 money to England, he managed to get it all in gold, 
 and, sto^ving it away in his box, embarked for Lon- 
 don, where, it seemed, from what we afterwards 
 learned, on his arrival he got intoxicated, and, on 
 awaking out of a drunken sleep, found himself minus 
 the box, containing all his ill-acquired gold. This 
 information conveyed a feeling of satisfaction to all 
 those who knew him ; but, I am sorry to say, that 
 the poor girl — who, I have no doubt, would have 
 made a virtuous wife to a good man — afterwards led 
 an abandoned life. 
 
 The reader may have read a description of the 
 Elephanta caves from a much abler pen than mine; 
 yet I cannot think of passing over these wonder- 
 ful excavations, without a few simple and una- 
 dorned remarks. To visit these caves, then, I hired 
 a bunder, or pier boat, and invited a few ft-iends, of 
 both sexes, to accompany me; and a convivial party 
 we were. We found ourselves, one beautiful morn- 
 ing, ere the sun had risen above the horizon, seated in 
 the little cabin of the bunder boat, with many of the 
 fine things of this life at our call, and skimming over 
 the blue waters, with a gentle breeze, towards Ele- 
 
148 A soldier's life m ixdia. 
 
 phanta. A short time sufficed to bring us to the 
 island, which is situated at no great distance on the 
 opposite side of the bay, and is a mountain isle, with 
 a double top, wooded to the summit. Here we were 
 met by an old pensioner, stationed on the island, and 
 facetiously styled governor, who kindly undertook to 
 conduct us to the cave. He led us up a romantic 
 pass, sometimes shaded with trees, and at other places, 
 walled by rocks, until the cavern unexpectedly be- 
 came open to our view. Here I was struck with a 
 sensation of astonishment. At first sight it appeared 
 all darkness within, while all around shrubs and 
 flowers of the most brilliant hues were waving in the 
 gentle breeze. On entering the cave my sight became 
 gradually more distinct, so that I was able with ease 
 to survey the wonderful chamber in which I stood. 
 The roof, which may be about twenty feet in height, 
 is supported by massive pillars, carved in the solid 
 rock, many of which are colossal figures of men, wo- 
 men, and elephants. There are also many figures 
 sculptured on the sides of the cavern ; but the most 
 remarkable is that situated at the extreme end, op- 
 posite the entrance, which is a gigantic three-headed 
 bust. The centre head seems to be the largest, 
 which, from the chin to the top of the cap, can be 
 little short of nine feet. One of the figures, of which 
 I took particular notice, has four faces ; some have 
 four, and even eight hands, and one is half male half 
 female. The sculpture work is well executed, al- 
 though, it is believed by many, that these caverns in 
 India were completed before the Christian era. How- 
 ever, as history gives us no account of them, this can 
 only be conjecture. The Hindoos attribute the work- 
 manship to the gods. But there is one thing certain, 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 149 
 
 the natives must have been far advanced in the arts of 
 civilized life at the time these caves were excavated. 
 I am sorry to say that an attempt seems to have been 
 made to destroy this celebrated Hindoo temple, as 
 fragments of statues strew the floor, and columns are 
 split in two, and some, without bases, are suspended 
 from the parent rock above. This destruction is at- 
 tributed to the Portuguese, who, in their intemperate 
 zeal to convert the natives, made war upon their gods 
 and temples. 
 
 After leaving this stupendous monument of idol- 
 atry, we came in contact with a party of British 
 sailors, who seemed more intent on gathering tama- 
 rinds than exploring the works of antiquity, as they 
 were literally loading themselves with this acid fruit, 
 which, they alleged, was a good preventative of 
 scurvy. At last we got reseated in the little cabin of 
 the bunder boat, and, after some pitching and toss- 
 ing, as the wind had increased to a stiff breeze, we 
 reached the barracks a little after sunset, much gra- 
 tified with our day's excursion. 
 
 Bombay, to the military in this quarter of India, is 
 something like a second home; they like very well to 
 visit it occasionally, buthave little inclinationto prolong 
 their stay, as life in the interior is much more desir- 
 able — and this was the case with me. Indeed, I felt 
 all anxiety to be again at a station where I could en- 
 joy the privilege of going out with my gun in search 
 of game. But seeing that I had little chance of soon 
 attaining this object by remaining in my own com- 
 pany, I contrived to get transferred to another that 
 was just about to embark for Bhooj, as I had formed 
 a particular fancy for that station ; but as I have pre • 
 viously given some description of it, I will now con- 
 02 
 
150 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 fine myself to particular events. The boats being all 
 ready, I was ordered off to draw the rations, and see 
 them safe on board. This done, the company era- 
 barked, and the voyage proved a very favourable one. 
 
 I was quite delighted, on reaching my old station 
 at Bhooj, to find that great improvements had been 
 made in the barrack accommodation. The roofs 
 were raised much higher, and th9 verandas extended. 
 A well had also been sunk, to supply a new range of 
 private baths, built for the use of the men, with water. 
 I was here appointed to keep the canteen — the most 
 lucrative situation that a man can have in the corps, 
 but one that ill suited my disposition. Indeed, it was 
 the means of producing a good deal of ill feeling to- 
 wards me amongst the men, simply because I would 
 not give them as much liquor as they wanted. And, 
 could it be believed, one of them actually entertained 
 a design upon my life, and for no other reason than 
 that I would not allow him liquor enough to get in- 
 toxicated. At the time this occurred, I was living in 
 an officer's bungalow, as the officer and his lady had 
 left the station for some time, and, dreading thieves, 
 they requested that I would reside on the premises 
 until their return. I may add, that I here enjoyed 
 myself very well, as I had free access to the whole 
 house, including a splendid library, and a beautiful 
 garden, with fruit and vegetables in abundance. A 
 horse was also left behind, on which I was allowed to 
 ride out at any time I thought fit. 
 
 One dark night, while I was walking home to 
 this my temporary abode, immediately after closing 
 the canteen, I was suddenly stopped by a man, named 
 M'Dade, who appeared before me in a menacing at- 
 titude, armed with a bayonet in one hand, and a 
 
A soldier's life in ixdia. 151 
 
 large stone in the other. He demanded my reason 
 for refusing to supply him with liquor in the canteen 
 about an hour previously. By this time I was be- 
 yond the reach of immediate assistance. I stood be- 
 fore him in a cool and unmoved manner, and replied, 
 " My good fellow, you must be aware that I can have 
 no vindictive or pecuniary reason for refusing to sup- 
 ply you with liquor ; were I to keep it from you, and 
 drink it myself, you might have some reason to com- 
 plain, but there is enough for us all ; so that the sole 
 reason that I can assign for refusing to supply you 
 this evening is simply because I thought you had had 
 too much before, and I consider I would have been 
 doing you a great injury, had I given you more." 
 Here he coughed, hum'd, and ha'd, for a few seconds, 
 and then threw the bayonet and the stone away from 
 him with great violence, saying, " The devil w^as in 
 my heart this evening. God forgive me for the 
 wricked design. Can you forgive me ; will you for- 
 give me ? " " Yes," said I, " I both can and shall 
 forgive you, but I will never forgive the bitter enemy 
 that brought you here this night." " Oh, what 
 enemy ? There was no one brought me here, I came 
 of my own accord." " No," said I, " you did not ; 
 had it not been for that accursed enemy, you Would 
 have shuddered at the idea of meeting me in this hos- 
 tile manner." " Whom do you mean at all ? " sobbed 
 he ; "is it the devil you mean?" " It is drink, his 
 chief agent, to which I allude. Had you been in your 
 sober senses, you would have scorned the action." 
 By this time he was sobbing and crying like a child, 
 and, after obtaining many promises from me that I 
 would not report the circumstance, we shook hands 
 and parted. 
 
152 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 I was somewhat surprised to find that our ration of 
 beef, though before but seldom given, was now dis- 
 continued altogether. From a desire to ascertain the 
 cause, I gleaned the following information : — A tribe 
 of Hindoos, I believe, peculiar to this quarter, were in 
 the habit of destroying their female offspring, the 
 mothers of the infants being usually the executioners. 
 They state, in defence of this barbarous practice, that 
 it is difficult to procure a suitable settlement for their 
 daughters in marriage, and to preserve the honour of 
 females is a serious charge in a family, and that, 
 when they want wives, it is much more convenient 
 to buy them, or obtain them from other castes, than 
 to rear them themselves. The mode of taking the 
 lives of their female infants, was by putting a little 
 opium in the mouth immediately after birth, or 
 drowning them in milk. But what must appear very 
 ridiculous to the European reader, these very people 
 were constantly complaining against us for killing 
 bullocks ; and it seemed that the Government had 
 entered into an agreement with them, that they were 
 to abolish the barbarous practice of destroying their 
 infants, and we were to cease killing oxen. Hence 
 the cause of our being deprived of beef. However, 
 this, in my opinion, was a matter of no moment to 
 any one, as the mutton was decidedly preferable. 
 But some seemed to think otherwise, as will be seen 
 from what follows. 
 
 A party made it up to go out under cloud of 
 night, and kill one of the many sacred bulls that go 
 about unmolested — a greater crime they could not be 
 guilty of in the eyes of the natives. A pair of bull- 
 ocks were employed daily in drawing up water to 
 supply the baths before mentioned, which were gene- 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 153 
 
 rally left by the driver to graze about the lines all 
 night. They inadvertently seized upon one of these, 
 a poor worn-out looking animal, that seemed to have 
 been in draft for upwards of twelve years ; but, I sup- 
 pose, all were alike to them in the dark. The poor 
 brute was soon despatched, the party no doubt think- 
 ing that they would have a savoury beefsteak for 
 breakfast in the morning. The ow^ner of the animal 
 attended next day to follow his vocation as usual ; 
 but, to his consternation, one of his bullocks was no- 
 where to be found, and it was only after a long search 
 that he came across its skin, hid amongst the hills. 
 Presently he made his appearance, coming towards 
 me, dragging the skin after him by the tail. I con- 
 ducted him to the captain, who at first laughed 
 very heartily at the affair, saying, that if the men 
 thought proper to kill bullocks, they would just have 
 to pay for them ; but, in an instant, the nature of the 
 case struck him, and he called for his horse, and gal- 
 loped up to the lines like a madman, and instituted 
 a strict inquiry into the matter, at the same time, 
 making the men fully acquainted with the nature of 
 the offence. But, fortunately, the native was one of 
 a caste that cared as little about the life of a bullock 
 as we did ; all that he wanted was to be compensated 
 for his loss. A sum which far exceeded the value of 
 the animal was speedily collected and handed to the 
 man, and so the affair terminated. 
 
 A select party of us obtained a week's leave of ab- 
 sence, to go into the country on a shooting and hunt- 
 ing excursion, and, as we were bent upon making the 
 most of it, we loaded two carts with camp furniture, 
 provisions, &c., and sent them on before, in charge of 
 a few followers, whom we instructed to take up quar- 
 
154 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 ters for us in the travellers' house of a particular 
 village. We followed, mounted on good steeds, and 
 armed with fowling pieces and spears, the latter be- 
 ing necessary for hog hunting. On reaching the 
 village, we were somewhat surprised to find the in- 
 habitants resisting the attempts of our people to put 
 the luggage into the traveller's house, saying, as an 
 excuse, that it was their only place of worship, and 
 that none but their own caste were allowed to lodge 
 in it. However, this did not discommode us in the 
 least, as we had changed our plan, and resolved to 
 proceed further on before we stopped for the night. 
 But one of our number, who was a wag of no ordi- 
 nary kind, intimated that he would bewitch the 
 village, or put the jaddah, as it is called, on it, in re- 
 venge for the unfriendly treatm^ent we had met with. 
 Some of our followers, being no strangers to his 
 waggish tricks, instantly took it up, and whispered 
 amongst the villagers that he was a barra jaddah 
 wallah, or a notorious wizard. He then raised his 
 hands and face towards the sky, and muttered some- 
 thing, and performed antics so ludicrous that all our 
 efforts to suppress the bursting laugh proved unavail- 
 ing. We then moved off, with about half the inhabi- 
 tants after us, begging that we would come back and 
 lodge where we liked, if he would but take the jaddah 
 off the village; but he continued inexorable. Pre- 
 sently we came to a large banyan tree, under which 
 we took shelter from the sun, and the cook served us 
 with an excellent repast. While we were eating and 
 making merry, the village people stood at a respect- 
 ful distance, censuring each other for interfering 
 with us. 
 
 On our again taking the road the w^ag was more 
 
A soldier's life IX INDIA. 155 
 
 earnestly applied to than ever to come back and take 
 the jaddah off the village, but all to no purpose. 
 Before we reached the next village it was quite dark; 
 but here we were met by two men, who promptly 
 conducted us to the travellers' house, and showed us 
 every mark of kindness and respect. Many of the 
 other inhabitants also came forward, and gave us 
 every assistance in their power. The difference of 
 the manner in which we were received by the people 
 in the two villages was the topic of our discourse for 
 some time; but we ultimately learned the cause. A 
 messenger had been sent from the former place, to 
 give the people notice of our approach, so that they 
 might be prepared to show due reverence to the 
 jaddah wallah. 
 
 We got up early next morning, and went out for a 
 few hours' shooting. We had excellent sport, and 
 killed a great deal of game, but saw no hogs. On 
 our return, and after having breakfasted, I was sur- 
 prised to see a crowd of people coming up the narrow 
 street that led to our domicile, opposite which they 
 stopped, and a lusty-looking personage, whom I took 
 to be their chief, asked if he could see the jaddah 
 wallah. I pointed out to him our worthy wag, who 
 was standing close by me. He then asked permission 
 to come in, which was readily granted. After giving 
 us a few salaams, he seated himself on the floor, and 
 commenced a long harangue, part of which was as 
 follows: — "1 hope you find yourselves comfortable 
 here, and that our people are kind to you." We 
 answered in the affirmative. "We are glad to see 
 Europeans, when they are civil; but some of your 
 people are so wild that we are afraid of them. You 
 are welcome to remain here as long as you please, 
 
156 A soldier's life in ixdia. 
 
 but I hope you will not put the jaddah on the village." 
 The wag replied that we had been most kindly 
 treated, that he would bless the village, and that he 
 would remember it to the last day of his life. At 
 these words a glow of pleasure came over the coun- 
 tenance of the chief, who before looked as solemn 
 as if he had been going to be hung. He then urged 
 the w^ag to go back to the other village and undo the 
 evil, as a child had died there the night previous. 
 After being repeatedly told that such would be done 
 on his account, he made a number of salaams, and 
 departed in high glee. 
 
 Finding no hogs in this quarter, we set out on the 
 following morning for a village about fifteen miles 
 distant, where we were well received, and met with 
 all we wanted; but being unaccustomed to hog hunt- 
 ting, it was only after a long and protracted chase 
 that we succeeded in spearing one, which we left on 
 the ground, a mess for the jackals, as we were getting 
 far more game than we could consume. 
 
 While we remained here a man came to us with a 
 very sore leg, soliciting our advice. As the leg was 
 in a filthy state, the wag told him to wash it well 
 every morning, apply vegetable poultices, and stand 
 upon his head, with his feet up against a wall, every 
 night before he went to bed. Another native came 
 running to us one evening, in a state of great excite- 
 ment, saying that his wife had been bitten by a snake. 
 The jaddah wallah's services were again called into 
 requisition. He desired the man to run and bring a 
 vessel, into which he emptied about half a tumbler of 
 brandy, and gave strict injunctions that the woman 
 should be made to drink it. Next morning the man 
 again made his appearance, salaaming to the very 
 
157 
 
 ground, saying that his wife's life was saved, but that 
 she was still a little sick. The wag remarked that 
 she might be the better of a glass to cure her head. 
 It may be necessary here to remark, that there are 
 many snakes in India, the bite of \\hich is not mortal. 
 
 Shortly after this excursion, I received a letter from 
 my chum Jamie, intimating that he had got an offer 
 of a situation as constable in Bombay, and, at the 
 same time, asking my advice as to whether he should 
 take it or not. I wrote and advised him to have no- 
 thing to do with it, as I was of opinion that he would 
 not keep it any length of time. But in the course of 
 a month I received another letter, stating that he was 
 appointed to the situation, and that he had furnished 
 a house with everything of the very best description, 
 from the proceeds of his wife's industry, and that he 
 had got a pony, and was doing well. The letter con- 
 cluded with a strong invitation for me to come to 
 Bombay and see them, and make their house my 
 home. Feeling interested in his welfare, and as I 
 had some business to transact at headquarters, I ap- 
 plied and procured a month's leave. A conductor 
 and a corporal followed my example, and we all set 
 out together. 
 
 On arriving at Bombay, I hired a palanquin, and 
 was hastening on to my friend, when I met a white- 
 hatted gentlemen (a constable), of whom I inquired 
 after Jamie, and was very coolly informed that I 
 would find him in the barracks. " The barracks," 
 said I, with amazement ; " what is he doing there ? " 
 " Well," said he, " he did not suit us ; nothing less 
 would do him than a horse, and, if he did not ride to 
 
 the d 1, he at least rode into the general hospital, 
 
 labouring under a severe attack of delirium tremens, 
 
 p 
 
158 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 brought on by hard drinking ; and, after undergoing 
 a course of medical treatment, he was sent back to 
 the regiment." I now turned and proceeded direct 
 to the barracks, where I found Jamie and his wife 
 sitting like two stucco figures, looking at each other. 
 His head had been shaved, and marks of leeches were 
 yet visible on the fore part of it. His wife had latterly 
 evinced a strong desire to do well, and, no doubt, would 
 have succeeded, had her husband conducted him- 
 self as any rational man would have done. She com- 
 plained bitterly to me of not getting half the value of 
 her furniture, which she was forced to sell. But per- 
 ceiving that my visit, under the circumstances, was 
 anything but consoling to them, I made it as brief as 
 common politeness would admit. 
 
 To' save time and space in making another refer- 
 ence to my chum Jamie, I will here conclude his car- 
 eer in India, by stating that he was, shortly after this, 
 promoted to park and store sergeant, from which 
 situation he was also sent back to the corps. By this 
 time he had completed his fourteen years' service, and 
 he was invalided, and sent to England (accompanied 
 by his wife), on a pension of ninepence per day. 
 
 After enjoying ourselves pretty freely in Bombay, 
 we set out on our return passage, which, from calms 
 and contrary winds, proved a very tedious one. We 
 were compelled to put in at Port-bunder for a fresh 
 supply of provisions, where we were met by the apothe- 
 cary of a native regiment, who conducted us to his 
 house, and treated us with great kindness, and then 
 proposed that we should pay a visit to the Rao, whom 
 he represented to be particularly partial to Europeans. 
 On our way to the palace, we discovered that the 
 corporal had evidently been making too free with the 
 
A soldier's life m india. 151) 
 
 apothecary's strong drinks, as he became quite intoxi- 
 cated. Fortunately for our credit it was now dark. 
 To take him into the presence of his majesty in this 
 state was impossible ; so, after a deal of persuasion, 
 coupled by some force, we got him detained at the 
 gate of the palace. Here we were met by a robust 
 native, who, on being made acquainted with the na- 
 ture of our visit, ran off to intimate the same to his 
 highness, and, instantly returning, ushered us into a 
 large hall, where his majesty was sitting in state on a 
 crimson cushion, more elevated than his chiefs, who 
 were also seated upon cushions on either side, and be- 
 hind him, cross-legged, like tailors. At a little dis- 
 tance, in front of his majesty, sat a group of natives, 
 who, every now and again, set up a shout to his praise. 
 Chairs were brought in for our accommodation, and, 
 after being seated, a chief, at the request of his high- 
 ness, began to address us, and made many inquiries 
 relative to our native country, and also about the Rao 
 of Bhooj, if he was a good-looking man, how many 
 wives he had, &c. At last his majesty thfew aside 
 all reserve, and conversed with us in the most affable 
 and agreeable manner, speaking highly of the British 
 government, and evincing great esteem and respect 
 for some officers, whose names he mentioned. He 
 seemed to be about twenty years of age, with a very 
 pleasing countenance, large brilliant eyes, and teeth 
 nicely arranged, and as white as snow. 
 
 It is the custom, on a visit of this description, not 
 to leave until you obtain permission to do so ; but, 
 as it seemed evident to me that his highness was in- 
 clined to detain us till morning, I intimated my fear 
 of the boat sailing without us. The hint was in- 
 stantly taken, and the usual present or token of leave 
 
160 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 to depart handed to each of us — viz., a few spices on 
 the leaf of a tree. The conductor kneeled on one 
 knee and kissed his majesty's hand, a ceremony at 
 which he laughed very heartily, and we made our 
 exit. On getting into the street, we found the 
 corporal lying fast asleep. He was roused up, and we 
 proceeded on board, taking the apothecary with us, 
 to whom the conductor gave a present for his kind- 
 ness. Port-bunder resembles Bhooj in a great mea- 
 sure, being strongly walled in, with the palace, a large 
 white building, towering above all the other houses. 
 The apothecary had no sooner left us than a favour- 
 able breeze sprung up, and twenty-four hours more 
 brought us to Maundiavie, after being fourteen days 
 on the water ; so that by the time we reached our 
 station we had far exceeded the month's leave. How- 
 ever, the cause of delay was easily explained, to the 
 satisfaction of the commanding officer. 
 
 Towards the close of the year 1838, our company 
 was ordered off, to join the army in Affghanistan, 
 under Sir John Kean, and 1 was sent to Bombay, and 
 subsequently appointed garrison sergeant-major at 
 Surat. I lost no time in getting myself equipped in 
 my new uniform, and embarked for my destination. 
 Here I encountered some severe weather, and our 
 crazy old craft leaked dreadfully. To add to our 
 misery, it was crowded with native passengers, men, 
 women, and children, who lay about in their usual 
 helpless state, yelling and crying most lamentably. I 
 saw nothing for it but to lend a helping hand, and my 
 cook boy (or man, I should say ; but all servants are 
 called boys there), followed my example, and we set 
 to work, and assisted in baling out the water, which 
 is accomplished by a trough placed across the vessel, 
 
A soldier's life in ixdia. 161 
 
 into which buckets are handed from below and 
 emptied, pumps being out of the question. Notwith- 
 standing all our efforts to keep down the water, it 
 continued to gain upon us rapidly. I was in the act 
 of beginning to throw a portion of the cargo over- 
 board, when the tendell (captain) begged of me to 
 desist, saying that he was in hopes of being able to 
 make a place of safety directly. This he fortunately 
 accomplished ; and, after some difficulty, we were all 
 safely landed on the beach, nothing the worse, save a 
 wet skin. 
 
 Here I was detained some days while they were 
 patching and repairing the old craft. This completed, 
 and the weather having settled down, we again set 
 sail, but without a single native passenger, as they all 
 preferred taking the road, rather than again trust their 
 lives on salt water. We were overtaken by another 
 gale, which made me sincerely wish that I had fol- 
 lowed their example. But we ultimately reached the 
 mouth of the Taptee, where I got into a small boat, 
 and proceeded up the river to Surat, a distance of 
 about twenty miles. 
 
 After landing, I was accidentally met by the sergeant- 
 major of a native regiment, and an overseer of public 
 works, who greeted me with a hearty welcome ; for, 
 be it understood, Europeans are at once on the most 
 intimate terms wherever they meet in this country. 
 They conducted me to my new quarters, which I 
 found to be commodious, and situated inside the 
 castle. We then repaired to the overseer's house, 
 where we passed a most happy and agreeable night, 
 and, next morning, I reported my arrival to the fort 
 adjutant, and commenced my duties, which proved to 
 be of a light and easy nature. My attention was next 
 
 p2 
 
162 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 turned to the making of improvements upon my house. 
 The ground in front I laid out in the form of a gar- 
 den, which proved a source of great amusement to me. 
 I was laughed at on making the first attempt, as the 
 ground was composed of nothing but the rubbish of 
 bricks and mortar. This I had removed, and good 
 earth substituted, and, in the course of a few months, 
 the front of my quarters were adorned with beautiful 
 flowers and shrubs, cucumbers and melons grew in at 
 my windows, and ripened upon the floor. The fence 
 consisted of a bamboo railing, thickly interwoven with 
 creepers, which formed a beautiful pea-green hedge, 
 intermixed with pretty little red flowers, and a bower 
 of the same shaded the passage leading into my house, 
 so that my little garden, which was at first laughed 
 at, now became the admiration of all. 
 
 Surat is situated in a low- lying fertile plain, on the 
 south bank of the Taptee, so that there is little of it 
 seen from the river, save the castle, which stands on 
 the shore, and some buildings that line the bank. On 
 the land side this immense city is encompassed with a 
 brick wall, round which a person cannot walk in less 
 time than three hours; but there are still portions of 
 an inner wall standing, which seems at one time to 
 have formed the boundary of the city. The castle is 
 divided from the town by a trench, with a small green 
 or esplanade in front, comprising a plot occupied by 
 the English church. In the centre of the town the 
 streets are narrow, and the houses crowded together; 
 the larger sort, however, have flat roofs, where the in- 
 habitants may walk of an evening, and enjoy the cool 
 breeze. In the suburbs there are many splendid 
 villas, occupied by both Europeans and natives. The 
 cemeteries are situated beyond the walls. That 
 
A soldier's life m india. 163 
 
 of the Dutch attracts particular attention, as it con- 
 tains many splendid tombs of enormous size, which 
 denote that this people— though now extinct — must 
 have commanded wealth and power in Surat. The 
 inhabitants of this city support no hospital for human 
 beings, but, strange to say, the Hindoos maintain an 
 extensive establishment of this nature for sick or 
 maimed animals, from an elephant to the vermin that 
 infest the human frame, and they have even been 
 known to hire beggars off the streets to sleep within 
 its walls, so as the vermin might feed upon them. 
 When Europeans get tired of an old horse, dog, or 
 any other domestic animal, the Hindoos voluntarily 
 assume the care of it, and place it in this house, which 
 is full of infirm, decrepid cows, sheep, dogs, hens, 
 pigeons, &c. I was annoyed by two dogs that 
 my predecessor had left behind him. Notwithstand- 
 ing all my efforts to expel them from the house, they 
 seemed determined to make good their quarters. I 
 threatened on several occasions to shoot them. This 
 came to the ears of the natives, and two men came in 
 one day and carried them off to the hospital. 
 
 Two large flag- staffs stand upon the ramparts of 
 the castle, one for the British and another for the 
 Nabob, on which flags are hoisted on Sundays, and all 
 great days. People of the Banian caste are numerous 
 in Surat. Ttiey are all obliged, every morning, after 
 washing and bathing, to have a kind of seal impressed 
 on their forehead by an inferior Brahmin — a few of 
 whom sit on the river side under the castle, where 
 crowds of people resort to bathe. Men, women, and 
 children enter the river indiscriminately, but they 
 usually wear as much clothing (especially the females) 
 in the water as out of it. After bathiup-. the women ex- 
 
164 A soldier's life m india. 
 
 change their wet clothes for dry ones publicly on the 
 shore, but with such dexterity that the most curious 
 observer can see nothing inconsistent with decency. 
 They then proceed to the Brahmin, who dips his 
 thumb into some red colour, and impresses it on the 
 forehead of the women. The person thus signed and 
 consecrated for the day, gives the Brahmin a handful 
 of rice, and then, with her wet clothes in her hand, 
 returns home ; but the poorer class of females, who 
 seem to have only one dress, retire to some convenient 
 spot, where they wrap rags about their nakedness 
 while they spread their wet clothes in the sun, and re- 
 main by them until they dry. 
 
 I had not been many weeks in Surat when I re- 
 ceived several additions to my pay, one of which was 
 twenty rupees a month for acting as bazaar clerk. I 
 now began to think that I might, with discretion, 
 have a pony. This was no sooner known than many 
 were brought for my inspection ; but I was very ill 
 to please. At last a beautiful bay pony appeared at 
 my door, which at once took my fancy. I was some- 
 what surprised at the low price asked for it — viz., 
 forty-five rupees. The money was instantly paid, and 
 the animal put up in a small stable, which was at- 
 tached to my house. But I soon discovered that I 
 had not made so good a bargain as I anticipated. On 
 riding it out for the first time, it made several at- 
 tempts to bolt into houses as I passed though the 
 bazaar, and it was for mounting upon the top of every 
 horse or ass that came within its reach. Presently I 
 met a native gentleman on horseback, on which the 
 animal made a similar attack, and the horse reared 
 and kicked in return, and threw the poor native 
 heavily upon the hard road. I felt so incensed at this 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 165 
 
 moment that I could have shot the brute on the spot. 
 Chagrined and embittered, I turned towards home; 
 but on reaching the esplanade in front of the castle, 
 nothing would induce the animal to cross the draw- 
 bridge ; at last it reared, and came over on the top of 
 me, but I miraculously escaped uninjured. I gave it 
 several trials after this, but all to no purpose; so I 
 resolved to dispose of it at any price. This I found 
 to be a difficult matter, as none would offijr a price 
 without a trial, and its faults were always detected. 
 I ultimately found a purchaser, who was, like myself, 
 struck with its beauty, and regardless of its faults, 
 although they were not hid from him. When it was 
 led out of the castle gate, I felt as if I had got rid of 
 the greatest nuisance ever I was brought in contact 
 with. 
 
 I afterwards bought a shigram, a kind of coach 
 usually drawn by two bullocks, and which is much 
 used in India. They are commodious in travelling, 
 particularly by night, as they can be closed up so as 
 to keep out the night air, and two persons may sleep 
 in one as comfortable as in their own bed. 
 
 We had the benefit of missionaries in this city, 
 two brothers, named Fyvie, truly pious men, whose 
 labours of love, in preaching and circulating the 
 gospel in the native tongue among the benighted 
 Indians, were highly praiseworthy, but with what 
 success I am not prepared to say. One thing, how- 
 ever, is certain, they were a blessing to the European 
 community. Public worship was performed in their 
 own house every Sabbath evening, and a more devout 
 little party than that which used to congregate there I 
 have never witnessed, either before or since, compris- 
 ing men of all ranks, from the commandant of the 
 
166 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 garrison down to such as myself. But while within 
 the sacred walls of the mission house, rank or 
 position in society seemed to be forgotten, as all 
 appeared humble and penitent suppliants for Divine 
 grace. 
 
 A chapel was at this time in course of erection, by 
 public subscription, under the superintendence of one 
 of the missionaries, who fortunately possessed some 
 knowledge of architecture; and, strange to say, im- 
 mediately after completing his work, his spirit took 
 its flight to that God whose cause he had earnestly 
 espoused for upwards of eighteen years in India. 
 His remains were interred at the side of the chapel, 
 amidst a most solemn and impressive funeral service. 
 It was very striking to see the widow, covered with 
 black crape, bearing her bereavement with a degree 
 of resignation and Christian fortitude such as can 
 only be expected from one who feels confident that 
 the dear friend departed has earned for himself a 
 home in heaven, and rejoices that he has gone there 
 to await her coming. I may add that the surviving 
 brother was not left to labour alone, as two young 
 missionaries had arrived ere this, and with combined 
 effbrts they began more earnestly than ever to educate 
 the young. This, in my humble view of the matter, 
 is the most judicious course to pursue. Give them an 
 education, and they will begin by and by to inquire 
 after that wonderful book, the Bible, of their own 
 accord, and search and judge for themselves. One 
 of their converts died during my time. They were 
 desirous of giving him a Christian burial, but the 
 Hindoos carried off the body in spite of them, and 
 burned it. 
 
 I was fortunate enough to gain the good opinion of 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 167 
 
 the natives at Surat, many of whom treated me with 
 great kindness and respect. I could enter any shop 
 in that large city, and get whatever I wanted, without 
 money ever being called in question; but of course 
 they would call at my house for it at their own con- 
 venience. They are honest in their dealings, but, like 
 all other people, they are desirous of obtaining a high 
 price for their goods. Acts of theft are of rare 
 occurrence, even amongst the poorer classes; and I 
 can assert that my door was never locked night or 
 day; indeed, in the warm season it usually stood open 
 all night. 
 
 After being about two years at Surat, I was sent 
 to the Presidency for the purpose of being invalided, 
 from causes which it is needless here to explain. 
 On arriving at Bombay, curiosity induced me to go 
 out to Momba Devee's tank, to see if the devotee 
 bearing the flowerpot upon his hand was still there, 
 and, to my surprise, I found him in the same position 
 as he was when I first arrived in the country. Time 
 seemed to have made little or no change on his 
 person. I accosted him thus. "Well, old fellow, 
 you are still here!" "Yes," he said, dryly, "where 
 would you have me to be?" "I would have you to 
 go to Europe with me," I added, " where the people 
 will give lacks of rupees to see you." " Well," he 
 replied, "if Europeans are so fond to see me, why 
 don't you give me a rupee?" 
 
 In the month of January, 1841, I appeared before 
 the Board, and was awarded a pension, agreeably to 
 the regulations of the service, with my choice, as 
 is usual, either to remain in the country, or return to 
 Europe. I preferred the latter, and subsequently 
 applied to Government, through the town major, for 
 
168 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 leave to proceed by the overland route. The follow- 
 ing is a copy of the letter in reply : — 
 
 MILITARY DEPARTMENT. 
 
 Bombay Castle, 2Qth January, 1841. 
 Sir, 
 
 I am directed to acknowledge the receipt of your 
 letter of the 23d instant, and to inform you that the Honour- 
 able the Governor in Council sanctions Sergeant-Major T. 
 Quinney proceeding overland to England on the first proximo. 
 The Military Paymaster at the Presidency has been authorised 
 to pay passage money on his account at the rate of the invalids 
 of the season, £23 15s., at one shilling and elevenpence per 
 
 rupee. 
 
 I have the honour to be, &c., 
 
 (Signed,) E. M. W. 
 
 Major Acting Secretary to Government. 
 
 To the Town Major. 
 
 With a copy of the above letter in my hand, I pro- 
 ceeded to the pay office, and received the sum men- 
 tioned, it being the amount allowed for my passage 
 in a sailing vessel, and I accordingly embarked on 
 board of one of the Honourable Company's steamers, 
 for Suez, at the head of the Red Sea. A week or so 
 brought us within sight of the Arabian coast, consist- 
 ing of mountains of sand and rock, without a green 
 blade to enliven the scene. A few days more, and 
 we reached Aden, where we were detained about 
 twenty-four hours taking in a supply of coals. I went 
 ashore, and passed the night with some friends belong- 
 ing to a company of artillery which were stationed 
 there. But I find it would be superfluous on my 
 part to delineate this expeditious and most interest- 
 ing route, as that has already been repeatedly done 
 by individuals much more competent for the task, so 
 I will pass on with little observation. 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 169 
 
 After entering the Red Sea, a lady, who was 
 returning home to England with her three children, 
 sent for me, and requested that I would be kind 
 enough to assist her on the voyage, and take charge of 
 her two boys, to which I readily consented. She had 
 two female servants, but the one seemed to care for 
 nothing but the £50 which she was to receive for the 
 passage, and the other was perfectly useless from sea 
 sickness. On arriving at Suez, we had just time to 
 get some refreshments in the hotel, when we were 
 called upon to set out on our journey across the de- 
 sert. The lady was accommodated with an old coach, 
 which was drawn by two horses and a camel. It 
 broke down several times, and gave her a great deal 
 of annoyance, and me some trouble. The gen- 
 tlemen and myself were mounted upon asses, and the 
 ladies were seated in chairs slung between two of 
 these hardy animals. Forty-eight hours brought us 
 to the ancient city of Cairo, where we all repaired to 
 Waghorn's hotel, and got well refreshed — which 
 we stood much in need of. One of my eyes was fear- 
 fully inflamed, but, on bathing it well with water — a 
 thing not to be obtained in the desert — I got imme- 
 diate relief. We then proceeded, on asses, to the 
 Nile, and embarked in small boats for Alexandria, 
 which city we reached, partly by this magnificent 
 river, and partly by canal. We lost no time in em- 
 barking on board the steamer Great Liverpool, and, 
 after touching at Malta and Gibraltar, we reached 
 England, the whole passage only occupying thirty- 
 eight days. We soon discovered, to our chagrin 
 and disappointment, that we were not yet to get 
 ashore. The quarantine law would not admit of 
 this ; so we were kept feasting our eyes upon the 
 Q 
 
170 A soldier's life in INDIA, 
 
 shore on which we were most anxious to be landed in 
 safety for nine days. Previous to the expiry of this- 
 time, the lady before mentioned sent for me to her 
 cabin, and paid all expenses in connection with 
 my passage to England, which amounted to about 
 £60, so that I retained to the good the £23 15s. 
 which I received as passage-money at Bombay. This 
 act of benevolence, together with other marks of kind- 
 ness which she showed me on the way, has left an 
 impression on my mind not easily to be erased. All 
 that I did for her was but very trifling ; indeed, I 
 have ever since regretted that I did not do more. 
 She was a highly accomplished and most amiable 
 lady, devotedly attached to her children, and seemed 
 regardless of any expense, so that it added to their 
 happiness and comfort. 
 
 We landed at Southampton on the 19th of March^ 
 from whence I hastened to London, and repaired to 
 the East India House, and got matters arranged re- 
 garding my pension, &c. I then took lodgings, and 
 sent for a tailor, and had myself fitted out in first- 
 rate style. This accomplished, I went on board of a 
 steamboat about to sail for Leith. On my arrival 
 there I took the coach to North Berwdck, and was 
 ultimately put down in the street of my native town, 
 where I stood looking about me for some time, like 
 a man bewildered. The houses appeared much 
 smaller, and the streets narrower, than I formerly 
 imagined them to be; and the spire at the Cross, 
 which I once looked upon as a pyramid for height, 
 now seemed to be the most diminutive thing of the 
 kind I had ever seen. 
 
 A crowd of idlers gathered round the coach as 
 usual, but none seemed to recognise me, and I recog- 
 
171 
 
 ulsed no one. My first object was to find out my 
 relations. I dreaded to make the necessary inquiry, 
 as I had some misgivings as to my father being alive. 
 I at last asked the question, and was gratified to learn 
 that the family still occupied the same house which 
 they did when I left them. My sudden and unexpected 
 visit created great excitement. My poor old father 
 held on by me as if determined never again to let me 
 out of his grasp. The first week after my arrival was 
 spent in visiting relations and friends, and all was 
 mirth and jollity, on account of the lost son being 
 found; but when this subsided I began to feel like & 
 fish out of water, and regretted having left India, 
 Indeed, experience has since taught me that all soldiers 
 who have served any length of time in India would 
 much rather be back to it than remain in their own 
 country. 
 
 I have always been led to consider the profession 
 of a soldier as one of the most important in the 
 oivilised world. He is virtually the protector of the 
 institutions of his country, and, as can be proved by 
 numerous instances, their only dependence in the 
 hour of danger. If the land is threatened with in- 
 Tasion by some tyrannical or ambitious foe, it is to 
 the soldier that the inhabitants look for protection. 
 If it is convulsed by internal commotion, the laws 
 disobeyed and violated, and the civil force over- 
 powered, his services are again called into requisition 
 to restore peace, and strengthen the hands of the ma- 
 gistrate in punishing the guilty, and protecting the 
 innocent ; so that the soldier, though a man of war, 
 is also a keeper of the peace, consequently, he cannot 
 be respected by those whose business it is to break it. 
 Ail right thinking men can come to no other conclu- 
 
172 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 sion than that the profession is both honourable and 
 indispensable, forming a noble field for aspiring am- 
 bition. 
 
 The discipline and equipment of the British army 
 (both Queen's and Company's), at the present day, 
 are the admiration of all ; and, I am happy to add, 
 that the comforts and improvements that have been 
 introduced into the service since I first joined it, are 
 both numerous and important, holding out an induce- 
 ment for a better class of men to embrace the pro- 
 fession. 
 
 That every laudable eflPort should be made to im- 
 prove their moral and intellectual character, none 
 will attempt to dispute ; and, as the humble sphere in 
 which I moved served to afi'ord me many opportunities 
 both of witnessing and feeling the effects of the want 
 of attention to this important matter, I am the more 
 desirous to see them carefully cultivated. Much has 
 been done in this direction of late, and it is difficult to 
 point out anything new. To quote the words of a let- 
 ter from an old companion — " One improvement has 
 so followed another since you left the service, that 
 there is now nothing left undone that the soldier can 
 reasonably ask for." But that more has been done will 
 be seen from the following general order, extracted 
 from an Indian newspaper : — 
 
 " 9th September. — With reference to, and in continuation of, 
 general orders, dated the 25th of March, 1848, his Excellency 
 the Commander-in-Chief, with the sanction of the most noble 
 the Governor-General, is pleased to publish the following ex- 
 tract : — Paras. 5 to 8. From a notification, issued by the honour- 
 able the Lieutenant-Governor of the north-western provinces, 
 regarding the modified arrangements of the civil engineering 
 at Roorkee. 
 
 "Para. 5. — Second Department.— European non-commissioned 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 173 
 
 officers and soldiers are required, previous to admission, 
 to prove, by examination, their proficiency in reading and writ- 
 ing, arithmetic as far as vulgar fractions, elementary geometry, 
 mensuration, and simple plan drawing, and none are admissible 
 without a satisfactory certificate of character. Passed candi- 
 dates will be nominated about the month of October of each 
 year, and will join the college in the mouth of January fol- 
 lowing. 
 
 " Para. 6. — When not furnished with carriage at the public ex- 
 pense, they will receive travelling allowance to Roorkee at the 
 rate chargeable for one camel, or one two-bullock hackray, per 
 man, travelling ten miles per diem, and six days per week, a 
 double allowance being granted to married men. 
 
 "Para. 7.— They will be on probation at the college for six 
 months, during which time they will receive their regimental 
 pay and allowance, and the same advantages as with their corps, 
 or the established equivalent in money. If approved at the end 
 of this period, they will then receive the staff allowance of an 
 assistant overseer in the department of public works, and re- 
 main under instruction at the college till the close of the annual 
 term in the month of December, when, if their conduct con- 
 tinues to be satisfactory, they will be drafted off to their ap- 
 pointed duties, according to the requirements of the public 
 service. During the time they remain at Roorkee, they will be 
 under the command of the officer who fills the post of principal 
 of the college." 
 
 It will be seen, from the above general order, that 
 soldiers, under ordinary circumstances, are not sup- 
 posed to march more than ten miles per day ; and as 
 they are all exempted from carrying that unseemly 
 appendage, a knapsack, marching in India is com- 
 paratively easy. Young men have every opportunity 
 to qualify themselves for Roorkee college at the regi- 
 mental school. An assistant overseer, who passes 
 through this establishment, enters upon a progressive 
 salary of eight pounds per month, with one pound for 
 horse allowance, should the nature of his duties re- 
 quire the use of one. 
 
 <J2 
 
174 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 I am well aware that in every scheme for the im- 
 provement of the moral condition of the soldier, the 
 great evil to he overcome is intemperaoce ; neither 
 am I a stranger to the difficulty attending the sup- 
 pression of this evil, but let every laudable effort be 
 persevered in, and beneficial effects will surely follow. 
 Let every reasonable indulgence be granted to the 
 sober, steady soldier, while the drunkard must of 
 course be punished ; it is for his good, and it is re- 
 quisite also for example. I believe it to be an ad- 
 mitted fact, that nine-tenths of the punishments that 
 take place in the army arise from the use of intoxi- 
 cating liquors, which undoubtedly tend to brutalize 
 the character, inflame the passions, and destroy all 
 prudent and economical habits. To obviate this glar- 
 ing evil, then, the great object to be aimed at, in my 
 humble view of the matter, is to provide means for 
 the profitable employment of the soldier's leisure 
 hours. Much good has been done in this way by 
 libraries and coffee-rooms. Care should be taken 
 that the books consist of such as blend information 
 and instruction with amusement, and newspapers 
 from editors of genuine principle, so that the leisure 
 of the soldier may be judiciously spent, which will 
 have the effect of engendering steady habits, and teach 
 him to entertain a due respect for himself, as well as 
 his superiors. 
 
 There are thousands of poorly paid mechanics in 
 Britain, who would be better in the army than em- 
 ployed at their low rate of wages. With poverty, 
 disease, and the poor-house staring them in the face, 
 they spin out a life of wretchedness and toil, and, too 
 often, sink into a premature grave, occasioned by the 
 close confinement to which they are subjected, and the 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 175 
 
 poor fare they have to subsist upon. I have no doubt 
 many of them would readily embrace the service, were 
 the great improvements that have been lately made 
 upon it brought to their knowledge. 
 
 The food and clothing of the soldier is decidedly 
 better and more comfortable than the mechanics I 
 allude to can procure, and the barracks are far more 
 comfortable than any of the small unwholesome apart- 
 ments into which they are huddled ; and cleanliness, 
 which is a part of the soldier's duty, is as carefully 
 looked after in the barrack as on the parade. They 
 are thereby protected from various diseases that are 
 engendered in the habitations of many of the work- 
 ing classes in the manufacturing districts of Great 
 Britain. 
 
 When the soldier is sick, he has the best medical at- 
 tendance that the nation can procure, and a comfort- 
 able clean hospital to reside in ; and when the time 
 of his servitude is over, and the infirmities of life have 
 crept upon him, or when he has met with an injury on 
 duty, however short a time he may have been in the 
 service, a pension is allowed him, which, though 
 small, does much towards protecting him from the 
 evils with which poverty visits the worn-out me- 
 chanic. 
 
 SCALE OF PENSIONS AWARDED TO SOLDIERS ON DISCHARGE FROM 
 THE HONOURABLE EAST INDIA COMPANY'S SERVICE. 
 
 If Discharged after Twenty-one years of Service. 
 
 Sergeants, having during the last eight years' service 
 held that rank, or distinguished for good conduct, 
 and disabled by wounds on service, 2s a day. 
 
 Sergeants, without eight years' rank, or wounds on 
 
 service, Is a day. 
 
 Corporals and privates, Is a day. 
 
176 A soldier's life in INDIA. 
 
 If Discharged after Fourteen years' Service from Debilitated 
 Coustitutions. 
 
 Sergeants to receive Is a day. 
 
 Corporals and privates to receive 9d a day. 
 If Discharged from Wounds or Injuries received on Service. 
 
 If able to If unable to 
 
 After Service contribute to a contribute to a 
 
 livelihood. livelihood. 
 
 Of twenty-one years, Is 4d a day Is lOd a day. 
 
 Of fourteen years, Is Od a day Is 6d a day. 
 
 Under fourteen years, Os 9d a day Is 3d a day. 
 
 A Conductor's retiring pension is £60 per annum. 
 
 Foreign service seems to me to be the most desir- 
 able for various reasons ; two of w^hich are, that a 
 soldier is more respected abroad than at home, and 
 generally finds himself better provided for ; in India, 
 especially, this is the case. 
 
 I may add, in conclusion, that I was fortunate 
 enough to obtain an appointment at Glasgow, and 
 found my way to that city in the month of January, 
 1842. Shortly after which a person called upon me 
 one evening, stating that an old soldier, who had just 
 arrived from India, was anxious to get some informa- 
 tion as to how he was to draw his pension. I re- 
 quested the man to be brought in, when, to my utter 
 astonishment, who should appear before me, in his 
 usual diffident manner, but my worthy friend John 
 Bain, the same individual that showed me so much 
 kindness on my first arrival in India. The moment 
 that he recognised me joy took the place of diffidence, 
 and happiness, on my own part, at this unexpected 
 meeting with an old and much respected friend, knew 
 no bounds. I considered that I had a debt of grati- 
 tude to pay, and felt proud that I was in a position to 
 discharge it. Nothing that I possessed was too good 
 for poor Johnny ; indeed, I wished him to take up 
 
A soldier's life in INDIA. 177 
 
 his abode with me, but he ultimately found out an 
 only surviving sister, vsrho took him off to the country 
 with her. 
 
 Finally, the pretty girls of Glasgow soon proved 
 more than a match for me, so that I at last deemed 
 it expedient to take one unto myself, for better and 
 for worse ; and if it be true that " marriage is a lot- 
 tery," I am happy to state that I drew a prize. 
 Little ones quickly followed, and nothing gives me 
 more pleasure, when the cares and troubles of the 
 day are over, than to retire to my humble fire-side, 
 and dandle the little one on my knee. 
 
 Do nothing to-day that you may repent of to-morrow.' 
 
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