UC-NRLF $B ETM Mflfi ^-Mv^^a^y^ ■ furjr ^y//'////^ y/.'/ 7/n.rr.r.,/y / /..///.^ vV*^ .y ^i-- SKETCHES A SOLDIER'S LIFE IN INDIA, STAFF-SERGEANT THOMAS OUINNET, HON. EAST INDIA COMPANY'S SERVICE. GLASGOW: DAVID ROBERTSON, BOOKSELLER TO HER MAJESTY. EDINBURGH : OLIVER & BOYD. MDCCCLIII. SKETCHES OP A SOLDIER'S LIEE IN INDIA, Before proceeding to relate the following incidents of a soldier's life in India, it may not be considered superfluous to offer a few remarks relative to my parentage, &e. My father, John Quinney, is a native of the county of Essex, England. He was a soldier in the Essex or Burgoyne's Light Dragoons, and proceeded with his regiment to Scotland about the year 1796. He was quartered for some time at Haddington, where he married my mother, a native of North Berwick, in the county of Haddington. He subsequently accompanied his regiment to Ireland at the time of the Rebellion, and at the close of that eventful period his regiment was disbanded. At the earnest entreaties of my mother he returned to Scotland, and took up his abode at North Berwick. I may here add that he never afterwards left Scotland, with the exception of about five years that he served in the Royal Navy, into which he was pressed at a time when men were much wanted. In the vicinity of the above mentioned little town I was born in the year 1807. B 2 • - ; / , A/SQLDtESlS LIFE IN INDIA. //•JCKef ii.^rii'e. Qiiitm.eiy.'ii^ay 'strike the reader as being rather uncommon ; indeed, with the exception of those in immediate connection with me by relation- ship, I am not aware of any person of the name in existence. However, I have succeeded in tracing it as far back as Shakespeare's time, when I find it used as the name of an individual who married the bard's second daughter Judith ; and it is supposed that we are all the offspring of this marriage, the truth of which would appear to be partially borne out by the fact that the name Judith is still retained in the family. The scenes of my boyhood were such as are common with others similarly situated, yet I possessed some peculiarities of character. I was noted, for example, amongst my companions, as being a most expert climber of trees. There were none too lofty for me to ascend. The highest in the neighbour- hood had me frequently perched among their top- most branches. Diminutive trees were beneath my notice. I was also particularly partial to very aged people, and nothing gave me more pleasure than to assist them in any little way that lay in my power, and to listen to their tales about the days of yore, the strange dresses they wore in their youth, &c. My ardour to assist the aged sometimes led me to commit strange blunders. For instance,— seeing one day an old woman struggling hard at a well to raise a tub of water to her head, I ran to her aid, and gave the tub an unguarded hoist which brought it upon her head bottom upmost. It is need- less to say that the poor creature was drenched to the skin. Being somewhat of a contemplative disposition, my attention was much engaged in endeavouring to select A soldier's life in INDIA. 3 a trade or calling by which I might be enabled to pass comfortably through the world, and secure a competency for old age. This was not an easy matter, as I had acquired a distaste for manual labour, and felt a strong desire to see the world — thinking, in spite of the oft-repeated proverb, "A rolling stone gathers no moss," that visiting places less densely peopled than my own country, would probably afford additional facilities for acquiring the bent of my inclinations. I had frequently noticed that many who had laboured hard for a long series of years were in anything but an enviable position, having too frequently no other dependence, when the infirmities of age obliged them to relinquish their accustomed labour, than a small pittance from the parish. Not but that I am disposed to come to the conclusion that much of the poverty and consequent misery of the working classes arises, in a great measure, from acts of imprudence. With many the great end and aim is present enjoyment, the future being considered so un- important as to be worth comparatively little reflec- tion. This is a circumstance which has not failed to arrest the notice and occupy the attention of some of our most eminent philanthropists. They see and they deplore that while health and strength remain, the working classes, with a few exceptions, recklessly spend their earnings, making no provision whatever for the future. And, again, in the higher walks of life, we find old age clinging with a death-like grasp to wealth, as though the period usually allotted to human life had just commenced, instead of drawing towards its close. But without further digression I proceed with my narrative. I had by this time come to the determination of 4 A soldier's life in INDIA. entering the army, calculating that, by this step, I should both be in a position to gratify my taste for sight-seeing, and also to secure a provision for my declining years. Matters of a nature it is unnecessary here to men- tion, prevented me following the bent of my inclina- tion so early as I could have wished ; but fortune at length opened up a favourable opportunity, of which I eagerly availed myself. Leaving the place which gave me birth, I wended my way to Edinburgh, on the 28th September, 1826. Having rested and re- freshed myself that night, I proceeded the following morning to the High Street, where I found soldiers from the various regiments recruiting. I felt rather diffident in making known my intentions, but I at last threw aside my reserve, and agreed to join the Honourable East India Company's service. I was at once marched off to the sergeant, who put me through a summary examination, and then placed in my hand the lucky shilling. We next adjourned to a public house, where I was introduced to a number of young men similarly situated, and who I was given to un- derstand were to be my future companions in arms. Many of these young men belonged to Edinburgh and Glasgow, and consequently possessed a degree of low cunning to which I was a stranger. They soon dis- covered that I was not without money, which they made me launch out pretty freely, in the shape, as they were pleased to term it, of paying my footing. On the following morning I was taken before the surgeon, and thence to the magistrate, where I was sworn in to serve His Majesty and the Honourable East India Company. By this time I had just seen enough of my new companions to teacli me the necessity of keeping as much aloof, from at least some of them, as possible. However, it was neces- sary that I should choose a comrade, and this I did by selecting an individual whom I will introduce to the reader under the designation of my chum Jamie. Be it here understood that Jamie was a married man, and having enlisted as such, his wife was, as a matter of course, allowed to accompany him to India, — a limited number of married men, without families, being admitted into this service by pro- ducing, at the time of the enlistment, a legal marriage certificate. But it too frequently occurs that these men, perhaps through some quarrel with their wives, deny the fact of their being married to the enlisting party. Hence often misery and vexation follow, for the men soon relent and send for their wives ; or the wives come of their own accord, when they find to their sorrow that they cannot be allowed to join their husbands, who, having enlisted as single men, must as such be held good to the service. The pre- scribed number of married men being kept up in the legal form by the recruiting officers, puts it out of the power of the commanding officer to assist persons in such a position. Some days after my initiation into the army, I met, by mere chance, with an old sweetheart, and, as absence is said to make affection stronger, we natu- rally became more and more attached to each other. A week or so elapsed before I could muster sufficient courage to acquaint her that I was now a soldier, and when I did so, she wept most bitterly. Seeing her in such distress I was moved to tears also. When she became somewhat more calm, I inquired if she would go abroad with me ; to which she readily assented, by b2 6 A soldier's life in INDIA. saying she was willing to travel the wide world with me, in an honourable way. To be married was now the order of the day. My chum Jamie came forward and was willing to assist me in any shape, either legal or illegal ; and as he was taking a wife with him, I foolishly thought that I could do the same. I was aware that to succeed we must keep our design from the knowledge of her relations. No time was to be lost, as we did not know the hour when we might be ordered to embark for the depot. Nothing could be done without money. I knew I could ob- tain some by returning home; so for that purpose I set out early in the morning, and wended my way through the streets of Edinburgh, while the police were calling out, " Four o'clock, and a starry morn- ing!" I proceeded merrily along the road, and reached home just in time to prevent my father start- ing off in search of me, as a report had reached him that I was enlisted. However, I soon put this all to rights by practising a little deception. Having ob- tained the money I required, I felt (as love has no bounds) all anxiety to take the road again ; but be- fore doing so I took a last and farewell look of all the favourite retreats where I used to sport and play in my earlier days. I also took a secret last look of all my relations, and more especially of my sister-in- law, who was a most amiable young woman, and from whom I had at this time received the m^oney. On arriving at Edinburgh I hastened to my Cather- ine (that was her name), and informed her of my success. Everything now appeared to go on smoothly ; but, alas! the old proverb, "The course of true love never did run smooth," was verified in this instance. Just as our hopes were about to be consummated, our A soldier's life m india. 7 plot was discovered by her relations, and they, being aware that I would soon be required to join the depot, used every effort to prevent the slightest com- munication between us. However, the day prior to my leaving for Chatham, I received an intimation from her friends requesting that I would wait upon them. It may be readily conjectured that I was not slow in availing myself of this invitation. On reaching their residence I found my Catherine surrounded by ten or twelve of her relatives and friends. Some time elapsed ere silence was broken. At last her mother remarked that had I not been enlisted she should not have entertained the slightest objection to our union, and concluded her observations by saying that as her daughter had expressed a sincere wish to see me for the last time, they had thought it prudent so far to comply with her request. I instantly sprung to my feet, and said that if such was the case, the sooner such a painful scene was over the better. Catherine also started up, and said that she wished to speak with me in private ; but as this was not granted, I held out my hand, and received hers, which was as cold as clay. She then staggered, and fell into the arms of her friends, and in another moment I was in the open street. Here I must leave her for the pre- sent, but as she is a prominent person in this narra- tive, she will in due time reappear. The day following this adventure I embarked on board a Leith smack for the depot, and, as the reader may believe, not one of the happiest of mortals. No- thing worthy of note occurred during the passage, except that it proved a very stormy one ; and, although of only six days' duration, I suffered more in that short time than ever I did afterwards at sea. 8 A soldier's life in INDIA. The whole of the bulwarks, and everything on deck to the leeward, was carried away in one night. This was certainly sufficient to " daunten" the spirit of one just entering the service ; but not so with me, for my mind was so determined in the matter that it never for a moment wavered. However, I got safely landed at the depot, where I soon got rigged out in my regimentals, and com- menced drill, the thing I had long wished for. I had often heard it said that it was difficult to learn the drill, but in this I was very agreeably disappointed. I felt no difficulty in it whatever ; in fact it was to me mere child's play; and I am disposed to think every one will find it equally easy who devotes any- thing like ordinary attention to it. The daily drill never exceeded three hours, and often was far short of that time. I cannot see how any man accustomed to labour can complain that the duties of a soldier are hard. If he would only balance the ten hours' labour with the three hours' drill, he would soon see that he has no reason to complain. Besides, if he would consider how much cleaner he is obUged to keep him- self than the labouring man, and the excellent treat- ment be receives in case of sickness, he would at once see that the difference is all in favour of the soldier. The longer I remained in the depot the better I liked the service. I took great pride in keeping myself clean, which is at all times the prin- cipal part of a soldier's duty. Somewhere about six weeks after my arrival at Chatham, a detachment was placed under orders for Bombay. I was not included in the list, but my chum Jamie was ; and neither having a wish to be separated, he entreated me to use my best endeavours A soldier's life in INDIA. to get out with him. I was perfectly at a loss to know how I could succeed in doing so, but Jamie, who was never short of a device, hastened off with me to the sergeant-major, and represented to him that I was his half-brother. This being believed, I was told to hold myself in readiness ; and, at the same time, the sergeant-major kindly remarked that he had no wish to separate comrades, much less brothers, if he could help it. The sergeant of my company appeared somewhat annoyed when he learned that I was under orders for embarkation, hinting that he intended me to remain at the depot for some time, adding that I would be promoted to be a corporal immediately, and he hoped that I would take care of myself. I was more than surprised at this intimation, as I had never dreamed of such a thing, and said, " But, sergeant, I will not know what to do as a corporal." " Oh," he replied, " we will tell you." My ignorance of a military life at this time led me to believe that something of more than ordinary importance was attached to that rank in the service. The order appointing me corporal was confirmed on parade the same evening. I now thought myself of some importance. As soon as I was dismissed I hastened to the sergeant, and in- quired what I was to do now? "Oh," said he, "go to the tailor's shop, and have the stripes put on." This order I quickly obeyed, and again presented myself before him, and made my former inquiry. I was simply told to do as I had done before, and when my services were required I should be sent for. I now strutted into the town as proud as a peacock, and enjoyed myself with some old corporals, thinking, at the same time, that I was as good a soldier as any of them. 10 A soldier's life in INDIA. The essential points in the young soldier's conduct should be obedience, temperance, and cleanliness, and with these everything else will follow. The moment he is dismissed from one parade he should clean and prepare all his appointments for the next. His mind is then perfectly free from uneasiness, knowing, that when a call is made, he is ready. Nothing more denotes a slovenly soldier than to see him cleaning his appointments about half an hour or an hour before the time appointed for turning out to parade. He should keep aloof from the society of those who entertain no respect for their own characters. It has too frequently occurred that young soldiers have been led from the path of virtue to that of vice, and their future prospects totally blasted, by inattention to this very important point. It is an easy matter to take up with bad companions, but it is not so easy to get rid of them. He should bear in mind that the army is composed of men of every variety of temper and disposition, more especi- ally the Honourable East India Company's service; for there you may find men who have been connected with almost every trade or profession, from the mason's labourer up to those who have been intended for the study of medicine, law, and even divinity. These intended professional men may be divided into three classes, namely, those who have been compelled to enlist through their own imprudence, in recklessly squandering away the means they may have possessed; secondly, those whom adversity may have deprived of means, without any imprudence on their own parts ; and lastly, (by far the smallest number,) those who are led to embrace a military life from mere inclination, or from their parents attempting to force professions upon b A soldier's life in INDIA. 11 them for wliich they had no desire, or saw clearly they could not follow out with comfort or credit to themselves. Now, out of these various characters, it is almost necessary that the recruit should select a comrade to instruct him how to pack his knapsack, clean his ap- pointments, &c. He will find many ready to assist him, as they know that he has something coming in the shape of balance of bounty, out of which they ex- pect a "spree ;" but he should select one better, or at least as good as himself. The young soldier, instead of spending his money in taverns, would serve his own interests better were he to save all he could spare while in England, for he will find on his arrival in India that he has another kit to furnish, and one, too, that he will be proud of. Fine white jackets, trousers, and a host of other articles, he must have, before he can appear on a level with those who have been in the country years before him. Sovereigns are the best coin to take to India, as they frequently bring at the rate of twenty-two shillings each. The stafi-sergeants at the depot are at all times a very superior class of men, and always evince a strong desire to assist the young soldier with good advice. There is a good school and a library for the use of the men, so that they have every facility for improving themselves, both in education and habits. The following is a list of necessaries supplied to each recruit at the depot, and paid for out of his bounty, with the price of each article : — Knapsack, complete, , £0 9 Canteen, with straps, , , 13 4 Shirts, at 2s l|d each, 8 5 2 Pairs Stockings, at Is 6|d, 3 1^ 1 Pair of Boots, 6 9 2 Towels, at 4d each, , 8 12 A soldier's life in INDIA. 1 Pair Braces, £0 1 3 3 Shoe Brushes, at 6d, 16 1 Clothes Brush, 7 1 Hair do., 6 1 Button do., and Button Stick, 6 Holdall, 61 Kazor, 1 4| Piece of Soap and Shaving Brush, 4^ Sponge, 3^ Knife, Fork, and Spoon, 7i 2 Tin Plates, 7^ 1 Box of Blacking, 4 1 Pair Mitts, 7^ Altering and Marking Clothing, 3 1 Pair Cloth Trousers, 7 2 Total, £2 8 5^ Besides the above, each man is supposed to have a small box to contain his necessaries, which costs about five shillings. Articles supplied to the recruit free of expense : — 1 Regimental Jacket, Blue for Artillery and Red for Infantry. 1 Drill Jacket. 2 Flannel Shirts. 2 Pairs Flannel Drawers. 1 Pair Grey Trousers. 2 Pairs White Trousers. 1 Forage Cap. 1 Stock and Clasp. 1 Set of Combs. 1 Pair Boots, 1 Pair of Stockings. 1 Pair of Gloves. We left the depot and marched for Gravesend in the middle of December, 1826, preparatory to em- barking for India. We saw many strange scenes while marching through Chatham — girls running into the ranks kissing their sweethearts, and handing 13 them small keepsakes, thus taking a hasty but long farewell. A number of these poor girls accompanied us to Gravesend, where they witnessed with sorrow the embarkation of those who were either near or dear to them. When we leaped on the deck of the ship, which. Providence permitting, was destined to convey us to Bombay, there was a hammock put into the one hand, and a bag into the other, of each of us. The latter contained everything that we were likely to require during the voyage, such as tea, tobacco, soap, black- ing, combs and brushes, together with smockfrocks, canvas trousers, checked shirts, &c. There were many bumboats around the vessel, ready to buy up, clandestinely, such of the above articles as any one might be foolish enough to part with. Tea and to- bacco were chiefly in demand with these bumboat people. It so turned out that we did not require the former article, as we were well supplied with that beverage from the ship, and as for the latter, I did not use it. Yet I would strongly advise the soldier to keep every article that is served out to him, for in the course of events it often happens that what he has disposed of becomes most in request; besides, if there was not a probability of his requiring the whole he receives, they would not be served out to him. There were fourteen or fifteen married men amongst us, whose wives stored up a good supply of the surplus tea. Many of them, no doubt, had enough to serve them for months after their arrival in India. As soon as we all got safe on board we were divided into messes of thirteen or fourteen men, and told off to berths accordingly — each mess being supplied with a small keg to contain the daily allow- c 14 A SOLDIER'S LIFE IN INDIA. ance of water, and a trencher to contain the daily rations. A cook and cook's mate were appointed to cook for the whole, and a mess orderly was selected daily, by rotation, from each mess, to draw the rations from the ship's steward, prepare them for the cook, and act as scullion for the day. Our rations con- sisted principally of salt beef and pork, of the very best quality, and more than we could consume, to- gether with plum-pudding and pea- soup, and tea and biscuit morning and evening. We also received two allowances of grog per day, consisting of one glass of very fine old Jamaica rum, cold water, sugar, and lime-juice. In a word, we were treated as men ought to be. We were also told off into three watches, with the view of giving us four hours o]i deck and eight hours below, more for the purpose of preventing us from being too much crowded under decks than for any duty we had to perform. The order to stand watch soon ceased to be enforced, for as soon as we got into a warm climate many pre- ferred being on deck to being below; besides, those who assisted the sailors during a storm were gener- ally rewarded with an extra glass of grog. There were too manv amongst us who would haVe taken a wet skin at any time for a glass of rum. A fatigue party was warned every fourth or fifth day to scrub the deck below, and sprinkle and fumigate it with vinegar, during which operation all were ordered upon deck, and none allowed to go below until the place was properly cleaned out and well aired. We were all rather dull in spirits for some time, owing to the prevalence of sea-sickness, but after crossing the Bay of Biscay, where we experienced very severe weather, our spirits became reinvigorated, A soldier's life m india. 15 and we set to work in various ways to while away the tediousness of the voyage, which becomes exceedingly monotonous, having nothing to look upon but the wild and pathless ocean. We had in our number some ten or twelve musicians, who entertained us with music on the quarterdeck every evening. Dancing accompan- ied the harmony, in which some of the men's wives were not backward in taking part. A few gave recitations, others told comical stories, whilst here and there might be seen small groups playing at various games. In all communities, however limited, there are generally strange characters to be found, and I can assure the reader we were not without them. One in particular, (an Irishman of course,) contributed in no small degree to our stock of mirth. His remark- ably broad humorous face, which possessed the pe- culiarity of being spotted all over, as though a bran bag had been shaken over it, whilst in a high state of perspiration, combined with a small protuberance in the form of a nose, and sharp twinkling eyes peering from beneath his massy eyebrows, formed a most ludicrous countenance, more readily conceived than described. His acquaintance with the English lan- guage was very limited, even to a few words, and, strange to say, these were of a grossly obscene char- acter. Being remonstrated with, on account of his uncleanly habits, by the .officer in command, he re- plied by one of his usual very indecent answers. He was instantly ordered to be made a prisoner ; but, on the nature of the man's ignorance being fiilly explained, other questions w^ere put to him, to which he gave worse answers, and he was ultimately dismissed, amidst shouts of laughter, in which the officers could 16 A soldier's life m india. not help joining. The chief mate, who understood Irish, and could the better appreciate this man's wit, had him sent for to his cabin, where he rigged him out with a cocked hat, long-tailed blue naval uniform coat, and knee breeches. After this he was seen par- ading the decks every afternoon, attired in his new uniform, dancing, singing, and cutting a variety of capers, to the no small amusement of his comrades. Another sample of the kind was frequently found dressed in a sailor's pea-jacket, with his head en- veloped in a south-wester. The former, he jocosely remarked, fitted him too much, for it was like a shirt upon a handspike ; but to make up for the deficiency, he padded himself in front to an enormous extent, remarking that a captain, to be strictly in character, should carry before him a big belly. This individual was frequently seen upon the poop personating, in a very creditable manner, the captain himself, and as- suming very strange airs, as though the vessel were left to his entire control ; but when the captain hap- pened to make his appearance, he would beat a retreat to the wheel, and pretend that he w^as assisting the "steersman, and there he would remain, making a variety of grimaces to all his comrades who looked at him. I might mention other characters who took an active part in amusing us ; but, suffice it to say, that we were kept in some kind of merriment or other during the whole voyage. I soon became a tolerably good sailor, and found myself quite at home on board ship. I was never slack at lending the sailors a hand, through which I became a kind of general favourite, and got, in con- sequence, many an extra glass of rum from the mate. Although I cared nothing about it at the time, yet I A soldier's life in ixdia. 17 could appreciate the kindness of the gentleman who gave it me. There was an order issued against any of us climbing the rigging, which was a great draw- back to my roaming propensities. The punishment for this offence was to stop the offender's grog, or send the sailors aloft to make him fast to the rigging, and keep him there for at least a couple of hours. Notwithstanding all this, the foretop was a favourite retreat of mine, where I often sat or lay reading a book for hours together, without any notice being taken of me ; but on one occasion I ventured up into the maintop^ where I was observed by the second mate, who sent the sailors aloft to make me fast to the rigging. But in place of endeavouring to come down, I went upwards. When the mate saw this, he ordered them down, and at the same time called out to me that if I would go up and turn the vane he should forgive me. This I succeeded in doing, but I must admit that I found it a more difficult task than I imagined ; and when I returned on deck I was re- warded with a glass of rum, accompanied vrith an admonition not to be so daring in future. By this time we were enjoying fine warm weather, and a number of the men threw their hammocks over- board, thinking no doubt that, as they were going to a warm country, they would not require them any more. Or perhaps they thought it too much trouble to be carrying them up every morning and stowing them away in the hammock nettings, and again taking them down in the evening. But be this as it may, these careless fellows paid for their folly ; for we again got into very cold weather, and these men had not a blanket to cover themselves. The result was that they commenced stealing their comrades' bedding, and c2 18 A soldier's life m ikdta. as few had either their hammock or blankets marked, therewas no detecting the thieves. Oneverycold night I had occasion to go on deck, and when I returned I found my hammock minus its contents. I knew that there was no use making a noise about it, as they were not marked, so I crept quietly into the empty shell, and lay shivering with cold for some time. At last I observed a person turn out and go upon deck. In an instant I was up, and had the contents of his ham- mock transferred to my o^Yn, and was snug amongst his bedding by the time he returned. But he was not so calm as I was, for he made a great work about his severe loss ; in fact, he alarmed the whole ship, but it was all to no purpose, for, like myself, he had none of his bedding marked. I must confess that I had some remorse of conscience while I heard him railing against the thief; but I consoled myself by thinking that I had only done that which had been done to me. This is not good morality. We must not render evil for evil ; and although such conduct was very natural, perhaps it should not be published. Hence the ne- cessity of having every article well marked ; which would not only prevent thieving, but also many dis- putes, for as everything is of one uniform pattern, there is no telling the property of one from that of another. Shark fishing took up a considerable portion of our attention. These sea monsters are not easily caught, as they are shy in taking the bait; yet we succeeded in capturing a good many of them. Our mode of procedure was to bait a large hook, about as thick as a person's finger, with two or three pounds of beef, and suspend it over the ship's stern. On one occasion we took a very large one, and when it was brought A soldier's life m india. 19 upon deck it bit at everything just like a dog. It was so furious that one of the sailors ran a cutlass into it, when out sprang a beautiful little reddish coloured fish from its mouth, which jumped about the deck so nimbly that it took some trouble to catch it. This is what is commonly called the shark's pilot ; but I have observed that the shark has more than one of these little fish following him. I have lain for hours out on the main-chains, watching the move- ments of these sea monsters, when the vessel was becalmed, for it is only then they can be seen to advantage. They would dodge about the ship, apparently with all the slyness of a thief, moving slowly and smoothly from one part of the ship to another. Here I have seen three or four of these small fish called pilots following one shark ; and when the least noise was made, by throwing anything into the water, they would spring into the monster's mouth. Another amusement in which we occasionally in- dulged was catching albatrosses, large birds, which measure seven or eight feet from tip to tip of the wings, and which are frequently found some hun- dreds of miles from land. They also were caught with the hook and bait, attached to a long line ; and so numerous were they that I have seen us take them as fast as we could let out and draw in the line. This would appear to be heartless sport, as the alba- tross is not fit for human food ; but what will people not do to while away the tedium of a long voyage ? Cape pigeons are often taken by baiting a small hook. Shoals of flying fish may be seen, springing out of the water, when pursued by the boneta, albecore, and other fish. These latter are occasionally caught, 20 but tliey are a dry eating fish. Whales and porpoises are frequently seen. Towards the close of a Calm and most beautiful day, somewhere off the Cape of Good Hope, we were alarmed by the captain bawling out, at the top of his voice, "All hands shorten sail!" The sailors were instantly at their work, and every arrangement made to secure the safety of the ship. The storm by this time had reached us, and the sea began to run moun- tains high. The thunder rolled, the lightning flashed, and the rain came down in torrents. Nearly all the soldiers deserted the decks, and the wind increased to a perfect hurricane. I remained up, and assisted the sailors, until about midnight ; but in consequence of the extreme motion of the vessel, I had met with several heavy falls on the deck, which induced me to think that I would be better in my hammock. I managed with some difficulty to get below, where all was darkness, and the men's clothes boxes, having broken loose, were flying about in all directions, so that I was in danger of getting my legs broken by coming in contact with them. How;ever, I succeeded in getting into my hammock; but what with the roaring of the wind, the noise of the waves, and the creaking and straining of the ship, together with women screaming, men praying, others cursing and swearing, sleep was out of the question ; in fact I would have gladly returned upon deck but for fear of the boxes, which were now rolling about in greater numbers. At last a tremendous crash took place. Every one thought that the ship was in pieces. The tumult that ensued beggars all description ; indeed it would be worse than folly for me to attempt to describe what I heard at this period. After the A soldier's life in INDIA. 21 tumult a dead silence ensued, which I believed was caused by every one wondering why the water was not beginning to overwhelm them. The reader may easily conceive how gratifying it was to us when we came to know that the ship was all secure, and that the cause of our alarm had only been the shifting of some of the cargo, from the extreme motion of the vessel. As soon as day dawned I jumped out of my hammock, and went on deck. The wind had fallen a little, but the sea was frightful to look at, and all around bore a most gloomy and dismal appearance. The sailors, poor fellows, were perfectly exhausted. No one but those* who have witnessed it can form anything like an adequate idea of what seamen suffer in stormy weather. As the day advanced the wind abated, and to our unspeakable joy we soon found ourselves in a tolerably calm sea. Every soldier and sailor was served with an extra glass of grog, the storm was all forgotten, and we were as happy as ever. The system of selling grog commenced amongst us, which led to cases of drunkenness, and conse- quently to quarrelling and fighting. To prevent these evils the captain gave an order that every man should be caused to drink his liquor the moment it was served out to him, and on no account be allowed to carry it away. The women who were also allowed grog were compelled to consume theirs in a similar manner. However, all who did not wish to drink spirits, had the alternative of throwing their allowance overboard, or it would be done for them. At the same time it was intimated, in the strongest terms, that the first persons caught fighting should be flogged. I may here mention that porter is now substituted in 22 A soldier's life IX IXDIA. place of ram, which must be a great boon, as nothing is more refreshing after a salt dinner than a draught of this wholesome beverage. I am also credibly informed that every detachment of recruits proceed- ing to India are now accommodated with a library. But to return to my narrative. All seemed to go on smoothly for a time. Drunkenness and fighting happily disappeared. However, we were destined to have one more fistic exhibition. A quarrel having taken place between a young man named Murchie (a Glasgow chap), and the cook, led to a regular set-to. The latter was much the superior man in point of physical strength; but Murchie* appeared to have made good use of his time, in making himself some- what proficient in the low science of blackening eyes and bleeding noses, which is at all times taught gratis (Sundays not excepted), in the Saltmarket and Bridge- gate. He made strange havoc upon the poor cook's frontispiece, leaving there stamped receipts which pro- bably this side of the grave would never thoroughly erase. The cook's mate, not much relishing the idea of his chum being defeated, kindly consented to put the finishing touch on Sandy. A second fight ensued, which proved to be a more arduous contest than the first. At last the mate showed evident symptoms of lagging, Murchie's Saltmarket greeting propensities being too much for him also. But just as Murchie was about to claim the victory, in popped the ofiicer, in the capacity of thirds-man, and kindly undertook to settle the affair, by ordering all three aft for a three dozen each, in the way of a cooler. Murchie, on hearing his doom, instantly stripped, to receive the first dose. Some delay ensued in getting a per- son to act as drummer, the boatswain not being 23 allowed to punish, lest it should cause an ill feeling between the soldiers and the crew. During this time Sandy was calling out, "Come along! What are you afraid of? Flog away; don't keep a person in sus- pense here all day!" At last the person so addressed, standing with the cats trembling in his hand, put Murchie through the operation without hurting his back much. The next in succession was the cook. Here another delay ensued ; when Sandy bawled out, " I will flog him," and sprung forward, seized the lash, and was ready to operate upon his antagonist a second time. This would not be allowed, and Murchie went away muttering something about tak- ing other three dozen to be permitted to have a few more cracks at the cook's mate. However, the other two eventually received their quantum, without being much hurt. Paltry as this punishment was, it had a salutary effect, as we had little or no more quarrel- ling during the remainder of the voyage. We lay about a month becalmed, under the line, with the sea as smooth as glass, and the ship perfectly motionless. Nothing can be more oppressive upon the spirits than to be thus situated ; for every one must know that nothing but utter destruction is before them, should Providence not be pleased to send a favourable breeze to w^aft them to their destination. No communication can reach a friendly shore ; all hope of a supply of provisions is cut off, and those in store must soon become exhausted. Morning after morning the first question was, " Is there no wind yet?" No, the sails are still hanging dead against the masts, without a breath of air to put them in motion. The captain at this time got a little alarmed, and put us all on short allowance of water; 24 A soldier's life IX INDIA. but this only continued for a few days. Providence ever proving kind, a breeze set in at last, vi^hicli relieved us of all anxiety. The system of shaving, as generally practised on crossing the line, was pro- posed, but the captain would not allow it, lest it should lead to quarrelling. The temperature here was not so intensely hot as I anticipated ; indeed I did not sustain the slightest inconvenience from it. There is perhaps nothing on earth that strikes the beholder with greater admiration than the rising and setting of the sun in these regions of the deep. I am sorry that it is not in my power to convey any- thing like an idea of the beauty and grandeur here displayed. Indeed, I question very much if any pen, however able, is capable of describing the magnifi- cence attending the rising and setting of the great luminary of day. It is almost worth a voyage across the Atlantic to witness this most gorgeous scene. One fine afternoon, as the ship was sailing before the wind, at the rate of about six or seven knots an hour, and as I Avas stretched out on the main-chains, amusing myself watching the water, with any little specks upon it, passing the ship's side, I was alarmed by observing a man pass close under the chains, swimming on his back, and holding a blanket in one hand. In an instant 1 jumped to my feet, and bawled out "A man overboard!" The sailmaker, with a prompt presence of mind, threw a form over the side, on which he was sitting mending sails. A more exciting scene than that which now ensued can scarcely be imagined. The noble bearing of the captain in issuing his commands, the promptitude with which the hardy tars obeyed them, the ready A soldier's life in INDIA. 25 manner in which the stately ship was brought to, the lowering away of the boat, &c., together with the extreme excitement of all on board, created within me a feeling of the highest admiration. The poor fellow by this time was so far astern that he could be but faintly seen when he rose upon the top of a wave. However, the sailmaker s form assisted materially in pointing out his whereabouts, as it lay in the water with the feet upwards. Of course the men in the boat could see nothing of him, but the captain stood on the poop with his speaking trumpet, and directed their course; and, to do them justice, they pulled as it were between life and death. The boat reached him just as he was struggling to lay hold of the form, for it would appear that he never observed it till then, and he was brought safe on board, but in so exhausted a state that he w^as bleeding at both nose and mouth. He had been at the head, washing a blanket, when he slipped, and fell into the sea. A number of the men washed their own clothes, but the women often had their tubs on deck, washing for all who thought proper to pay them. My chum Jamie's wife acted the part of a sister to me in this respect. All hands were mustered every Sunday morning, weather permitting, to hear divine service performed by the officer in command, there being no chaplain on board. The Roman Catholics, on these occasions, retired to the far end of the vessel, as if they had been afraid to hear the Word of God uttered by any other lips than those of their own priests. I am now drawing near a close with my account of the voyage out. We were all, with one or two exceptions, in excellent health, with not a single case of scurvy amongst us. We were w^ell supplied with D 26 A soldier's life in INDIA. vinegar and mustard, which no doubt assisted in keeping away this malady. In my solitary moments I thought much about the East Indies, and, like others similarly situated, I had heard many old women's stories at home about the pestilence and war of that country, which led me to form anything but a favourable opinion of it; besides, we had an individual on board who had previously served in India, and this person took a pride in getting a num- ber of us seated around him on the forecastle, of a night, where he would relate the most horrible stories about the country that his imagination could invent. These statements were all believed by me at the time, and it was only subsequent experience which taught me that they were totally unfounded. He might have indulged in these stories for his own amusement, and to get up a laugh at our expense for being so easily imposed upon ; but, be this as it may, I know that he wrought my feelings up to such a pitch that I did not expect to live a week after my arrival. We were, at last, very agreeably surprised by the man, on the look-out, at the mast head calling out, •'Land ahead!" These words ran through the ship like wildfire; every one was on deck in an instant, to see the land of our destination. The second mate went aloft with his glass, and when he returned he reported to the captain that Bombay was right ahead. All eyes were now strained in that direction for more than half an hour, but no land was to be seen. At length we observed hills and trees. We were all in the greatest state of excitement at the idea of getting our feet once more on terra firma ; for, be it here re- marked, we had been exactly twenty weeks at sea, and A soldier's life in INDIA. 27 never had seen land since our leaving England, The wind freshened as we neared the shore, and we sailed in beautifully. On a sudden we obtained a view of the city and fort, which have a very striking appear- ance from the sea. By this time the European pilot had come on board, and his boat's crew of darkies engaged no small share of our attention, as they were almost in a state of nudity. Another half hour passed, and then we were surrounded by shipping ; the anchor had been let go, and the vessel made secure. Here again we were visited by numerous bumboats, containing everything that was likely to be tempting to raw recruits, such as fruits, &c. The object of the people in these floating shops was to barter their goods for any articles of clothing that the men might be foolish enough to dispose of. Woollen articles were most in request; and, in many instances, blankets and flannel shirts changed hands for a few pine apples. All of us were much disappointed on being in- formed that we were to remain on board another night, it being too late to disembark. The bartering system commenced then in earnest ; hammocks, with their contents, went off for about a penny or twopence worth of fruit. I disposed of nothing ; but some of my comrades kindly acted the part of salesmen for me. On going below to bed I found my hammock minus its contents. This so enraged me that I took the hammock down, and threw it out at the port- hole, consequently I had to walk the deck all night. At midnight, when all was silent and still around me, my mind strayed back to the remembrance of former events. " The girl I left behind me," home, and all that was dear to me there, crowded upon my 28 A soldier's life IX IXDIA. memory. I strove hard to expel from my mind those pamful reflections, but it was in vain. Happily a sailor, who was on watch, came to my relief, and turned my attention another way. A long and tedious night at last gave way to the forthcoming morning, and with it we had plenty of bustle and confusion, all of us preparing for the disembarkation. The boats were soon alongside, into which we leaped, gave the officers of the ship three cheers, and in a few minutes afterwards we were landed at the quay. This was on the 5th of May, 1827. Here we were met by a number of sergeants, who were deputed to conduct us to the barracks. The day happened to be very ^ndy. The dust was flying about so as nearly to suffocate us. This assisted to strengthen the un- favourable opinion I had formed of the country. On our way to the barracks we passed through a strange looking street, the houses being high on either side. Here I looked about for white faces, but saw none. At last I observed a band approaching. This turned out to be the regimental band coming to play music to us while going into barracks. I was agreeably surprised to find that they were a set of fine, fresh, healthy-looking young fellows. We soon reached the barrack square at Fort George, where I was astonished to see the men running about in all direc- tions in their shirt sleeves. I felt half inclined to think that they were mad, but on a nearer approach I found that they were playing at various games. On observing us many of them deserted their sports, and ran towards the new comers. Amongst the rest a brawny-looking fellow asked us, in the broadest of the Scotch dialect, if there were "ony Ayrshire chaps amang us." I answeredthatl didnotthinkthere was; on which A soldier's life in INDIA. 29 he remarked, *' You're a Scotcliman." I said I was. " Come along with me, then," said he. This was just what I wanted, and as so@n as I got an ' opportunity, I put the following questions to my new friend : — " How long does a white man generally live here ?" "What do you mean by that, man," said he; "why, they just leeve till they dee, like other folk. I have been seventeen years here and I'm no dead yet ; and I'm no intenden to dee until I see auld Ayr again.'^ "What," said I, "seventeen years in this country! youai^e surely jesting!" "Not at all," said he, "there are monyaulder sodgers than me in the regiment." '^Is it always windy weather like this?" I inquired. "Not at all," he replied; "but I tell you what, youngster, I can see through you at once ; you have come from Scotland with your head crammed full of ' auld wives' ' stories about India. Throw all that nonsense out of your head, eat, drink, and be merry, my boy, and the 'deil- a-fears' of you. I never had a headache since I came to this country except when I brought it on myself by drinking too much grog ; and then I could always cure it with a double header" (two drams). " But come," he continued, " I must take you over to the canteen and let you taste our arrack." I was not very sure of my new friend. In fact, I suspected him to be both an impostor and a drunkard, and felt anxious to get rid of him. When we reached the canteen,it was crowded with recruits (or plumpers, as I now found we were called). Here I gave my friend the slip, and returned to barracks, where we were allotted berths and supplied with supper. I then stretched myself on my couch, soon fell fast asleep, and did not awake till sunrise. As soon as I got dressed I strolled out to look about d2 30 A soldier's life m ixdia. me. It was a most beautiM morning ; all looked so calm and serene around me that I felt quite amazed. I strayed till I reached a tank in the barrack square ; I leaned upon the railing that surrounded it, and amused myself by taking notice of the frogs sporting in the water, thinking they were different from those I had seen at home. Presently I discerned a number of natives walking towards the barracks in a bending position, with something like leathern bags on their backs, and water dropping out of them. All my wits were now at work endeavouring to discoA^r what these could possibly be, when a young man touched me on the shoulder, at the same time saying, " Good morn- ing, Sir, what do you think of this country?" There was something very pleasing in this man's appear- ance, which at once secured my confidence. I replied, " I do not know what to think of it, but this is cer- tainly a very fine morning." " Yes," he continued, " but this is the hottest season of the year ; the rains will set in next month, which will cool the country ; are you not, ' added he, "a Scotchman?" I replied in the affirmative, and gave him farther information respecting my name, place of birth, &c. In return he told me that his name was John Bain, that he came from Airdrie, and had been between four and five years intheservice. I now inquired of him what those people were who carried the leather bags on their backs. "0," said he, "these are the Bheesties, who supply us with water." "What," said I, "carry water in a bag?" "Well," continued he, "they are sheep or goat's skins, I believe, tanned and prepared for the jnirpose." My new friend kindly undertook to show me the various out-offices connected with the barracks, and A soldier's life in INDIA. 31 directed my special attention to the library and school- room, stating that, if I wished to improve myself, I never could have a better chance, as I would receive books in abundance out of the former, and every thing requisite in the latter, without costing me a single pice (halfpenny). Thence we proceeded to the Ball Alley. Here I was asked if I could play at ball ? I answered in the negative. "Well," said he, "'you should learn, for you will find splendid ball alleys wherever you go in this country ; besides, I believe it to be a healthy exercise, if you do not overheat your- self" On our return he pointed out the canteen to me, saying, " but I suppose you were there last night. How do you like the arrack ?" I here related 'to him the adventure I had with the Ayrshire '* chap," how I suspected him to be a dissembler and a drunkard, and gave him the slip without tasting the arrack. " 0," said he, "I know whom you mean; you acted very wisely, as he is too fond of the glass for you; but he is not a bad fellow. He has been, I believe, seventeen or eighteen years in the service, and notwithstanding his intem- perate habits I am not aware of his ever being on the doctor's list. However, that is not usual. If a man wishes to enjoy good health in this country, he must be temperate in both eating and drinking. One like you," he continued, " who have been brought up in a rural district, and have no doubt a good constitution, by taking care of it, may enjoy as good health here as in any part of the globe ; but hear, that is the break- fast bugle, we must go and get something to eat. Good morning, I will see you again." I now parted with my new, and, as I afterwards found, real friend, Johnny Bain, and proceeded to barracks in high spirits. But I felt chagrined at hav- 32 A soldier's life m ixdia. ing allowed myself to be beguiled by the fabulous stories on board our ship, and for the manner in which I treated the honest Ayrshire man the previous even- ing. I had not been long seated w^hen up came 'a black cook, and asked me what I wanted for break- fast. " Coffee or tea, master ?" said he. " Coffee," said I. " And chilly "fry ?" he added. " If you please," I re- plied. Away he went, and brought in a loaf of bread, a dish of coffee, and a plate of finely fried beef. My appetite being good, I commenced upon the fry, which looked very fine ; but in an instant my mouth became inflamed to such a degree that I bawled outmost lustily for water. Of course I was well laughed at by some of the -old soldiers, but one of them reproved the cook for giving me this hot stuff, and ordered him to bring me something else, which he did, and I at last made a good breakfast. Many of the old soldiers are particularly partial to this chilly fry, which is nothing more than beef or mutton highly seasoned with spices and chillies. After breakfast we were ordered to parade before the com- manding officer. He inquired if we had any com- plaints to make ? I here stepped forward and presented him wdtli an account for beef which the mess I was in charge of had not drawn during the voyage. He re- quested an explanation as to how I came to have such a claim, when I assured him that not being able to consume our daily allowance of beef, it was announced to us that any portion we thought proper not to draw would be taken account of, and that we should receive compensation, in lieu thereof, on our arrival at Bombay. He asked if any more had the same com- plaint to make, whereupon several came forward, but they had no written statements. He desired them to A soldier's life in INDIA. S3 get their accounts ready, and forward them to him, and he would see us paid, which he did to our entire satisfaction. We were now assigned to particular regiments. It fell to the lot of my chum Jamie and me to be ap- pointed to the 1st Bombay European Regiment, then in the interior. But in the meantime we were at- tached to the 2d regiment, then stationed in Fort- George Barracks, and allowed to remain at Bombay in anticipation of our regiment's return from the in- terior. I soon discovered that my promotion as cor- poral in the depot was merely a temporary affair ; but the commanding officer informed me, as well as a number more similarly situated, that we should get the first vacancies that occurred in our respective regiments, provided our conduct was such as to merit approval. We were also now supplied with a kit of white jackets, trousers, &c., suitable for the climate, and the foolish fellows who had disposed of their sea kit to the bumboat men, now found out their mistake ; for had they brought all they possessed ashore they might have sold what they did not require to good advantage, the proceeds of which w^ould have assisted materially in paying for the dress now required. We now began our drill, after getting a few days to look about us, during which time I was almost constantly with my friend Johnny Bain, from whom I obtained some useful information. As to our treatment while recruits at drill, I may mention that we had about one hour's drill in the morning before breakfast, and the same in the even- ing before supper, Thursdays and Sundays excepted, as well as Saturday evenings ; so that our work, if such I may venture to term it, occupied some nine 34 A soldier's life in ikbia. hours a week. We breakfasted at eight o'clock, dined at twelve, and took supper about six, or earlier when the evening parade was dispensed with. Our victuals cost us about 10s or lis per month, and I am fully satisfied that the like could not be purchased in England for less than three times that sum. The school-room was open from nine to twelve, and from two to four, for all who wished to attend it, free of expense. The profit of the canteen here goes to the soldiers, and supplies them with all kinds of articles of amusement. The men can sit and read in the library, or carry books home to the barrack-room as they think proper. Native barbers remain in the barracks all day for the purpose of shaving and cutting hair, for which each man is charged at the rate of 6d a month. It is cus- tomary here to take a nap after dinner, and it is not uncommon to see one of these barbers shaving a man while fast asleep. Cleaning boys (as they are called) remain always on the spot ready to clean the accou- trements of all those who may wish to employ them. This item costs the soldier Is 6d, or 2s a month. Recruits, in general, clean all their own things except their boots and shoes, for which they pay at the rate of 6d per month. One cleaning boy will serve ten or twelve men, and as he can always get more broken vic- tuals in barracks than he is able to consume, he is in my opinion much better paid than the British la- bourer, for be it known that one shilling to him i^ better than four to the working man in England. Natives are allowed by Government to clean the barracks and do all kinds of drudgery, so that the soldier is required to do nothing mean or degrading. The cooks are all natives of the country, and gene- rally of Portuguese origin. Each mess has a little A soldier's life in INDIA. 35 boy to run messages for the men. In fact, the soldier here lives like a gentleman compared with the British labourer. When he mounts guard the whole of his bedding is carried after him by the cooks, and spread in a cot in the guard-room, so that he can stretch himself out on it and take a nap, or read his book when he is not wanted for sentry ; and as he is four hours off sentry for every two hours on, he has plenty of time to read or rest. I soon got dismissed from drill, and commenced my duty. I had then four or five parades less in the week ; and now that I knew my duty I felt myself quite independent. I have often heard it said that a soldier has too many masters ; but I say that the soldier who knows his duty and does it has no masters here. I have also heard bigoted en- thusiasts say that a soldier cannot be a Christian; but I say that as a soldier here, the poor man has every opportunity of making himself a true Christian. He is not like the hard-working man, worn out with the fatigues of the day, and in no humour in the evening to study things divine. Even when the long-looked-for Sunday comes round, the labourer at home says to him- self, I have laboured hard all week, I will not go to church this forenoon, and in the afternoon he takes a walk with his wife and children, or with his sweetheart, and perhaps visits the church with the chimney at the end of it. But in the evening a gloom comes over his spirits at the thought of having to resume his weary weekly toils on Monday morning. Here, however, with the soldier it is not so. Both his body and mind are at ease every day, or it is his own fault. He has a good church to go to every Sunday, and ministers visit the barracks once or twice during the week, and hold prayer meetings in the library for all who wish 36 to attend. The soldier can also have a choice of reli- gious books, and plenty of time to read them. The man, therefore, who says that a soldier cannot be a Christian is clearly ignorant of all that appertains to the Divine will. If he reads his Bible it is evident that he does not comprehend it, for there is not one word from one end to the other of that sacred volume which excludes any class or profession of men from Christianity ; and truly, I have met with far better society in the army than ever I met with out of it. But to resume my narrative. My chum Jamie and I took a pride in going to the Scotch Kirk, which is a handsome little edifice, and well supplied with books, so that a person has no oc- casion to take one with him. One Sunday while pro- ceeding thither as usual, we were accosted by a smart- looking young man in the garb of a sailor, or rather that of a master's mate, who invited us to take a glass with him. I hesitated, but Jamie said a dram would give us an appetite for the sermon, so into a grog shop we went, and whilst we were partaking, the sailor asked us if we had any inclination to desert. We answered that we had not, as we did not see where we could go, to be better than w^here we were. He said that his ship was lying in the harbour, that as she was short of hands he would willingly take a few of us, that he would rig us out in sailor's clothes before we went on board, and that the captain would ask us no questions. We remained with him until we had had more than one glass, when all at once my chum started up and advised me in the strongest terms to go with the sailor. I looked at him with aston- ishment. When he saw this, he said, " You can go home to Edinburgh, marry your sweetheart, enlist as A soldier's life in INDIA. 37 a married man under an assumed name, and come out again." The thought of seeing my Catherine, enhanced no doubt by the spirits I had taken, almost elicited from me an answer of compliance. At last we agreed to meet the sailor that evening at seven o'clock, and he said that he hoped by that time I would have fully made up my mind, as he would be provided with a suit of sailors' clothes for me. During the interval Jamie kept urging me to take this false step, and we even went so far as the barrack gate to fulfil our ap- pointment with the sailor. But here fortune favoured me, as we were stopped by the corporal on duty, and told that we could not be allowed to pass ; an order having been issued to allow none of us out on this occasion, in consequence of some of our men having misconducted themselves in the town on the previous Sunday evening. Hence the system (however per- nicious it may be) of punishing a whole regiment for the misdeeds of a few, saved me from the consequences that might have followed on this occasion. Yet I would humbly suggest that the greatest distinction imaginable should at all times be maintained between the good soldier and the bad one, to induce the latter to imitate the conduct of the former ; and I cannot see how this could be better worked out than by confining the bad to barracks, and giving the good men liberty to walk out at all seasonable hours. I subsequently called at the place appointed to meet the sailor, and learned that he had actually been there at the hour mentioned, and had with him a suit of sailors' clothes; but I may add, in justice to the British seaman, that the ship this person belonged to did not sail under British colours. I feel confident 38 A soldier's life m india. that at least two-thirds of the men that desert from the army do so through bad advice. The Sunday following the above adventure found Jamie and me in church as usual, where we saw a 3'oung woman in the seat before us, who seemed to be a stranger. I had occasion to reach my hand over to her seat for a book. This attracted her attention. She started, and looked about, when, to my unutter- able amazement and surprise, in her I beheld my Catherine. We both sprung on our feet, and I seized her by both hands. We looked at each other for some time, as if doubtful whether this was indeed reality or a dream. Fortunately there were few people in the church at this time, as the service had not commenced. Neither of us possessed the presence of mind to walk out, so we resumed our seats, and remained until the service was over; but such a time perhaps no one ever passed in church. I was quite on thorns, and at times found myself sitting whilst others were standing. In fact I was completely be- wildered. I once thought of touching her, and beck- oning her to come out, for I could observe that she was equally uneasy as myself, and continued burying her face in her handkerchief. At last the minister having come to a conclusion, we retired, and found a palanquin in waiting to convey her to her residence; but she preferred walking, that she might the better be able to unravel the cause of our happy though strange and unexpected meeting. The reader must excuse me for not doing justice to the scene that followed, as I am not in possession of words adequate for the task. Let it suffice to give an abridgment of her own words, which were as follows : — " After you left Edinburgh I got into a state of A soldier's life in INDIA. 39 despondency, and my healtli became impaired. The doctor intimated that I was threatened with consump- tion, and recommended a change of air. A young woman called one evening to see me, and mentioned a family who wanted a servant to accompany them to India. I lost no time in applying, and was accepted, after giving references as to character. I at once joined the family and we set out for London, where we remained until the ship was ready to sail. I have no news to give you about the passage, except that I suffered much from sea sickness, in consequence of not having been at sea before; but every one with whom I was connected was exceedingly kind to me. I arrived here about three months ago, and when I began to inquire after you, I was informed that you might have gone to Madras or Bengal, so that I would have nearly as long a voyage before me as the one I had just finished, ere I could find you. I was introduced to a gentleman who, I was told, had just left your regiment for a situation in the town. That person promised to obtain for me every possible in- formation, and in a day or two he called and assured me that there was not such a person as you on the Bombay establishment. But," she added, "this is where my family resides; come up." I hesitated, and said, " Your master and mistress know nothing about me." " No," she said, " for I never mentioned you to them; but you must come up." So up we went. We were soon seated in a small room, which ap- peared to be appropriated to her own use, and here we had ample opportunity of breathing forth our feel- ings of affection. After a time she presented me with a bundle of letters of an amatory nature. On looking over them 1 at once discovered that they were written 40 A soldier's life in INDIA. by a person who left the regiment, shortly after I joined it, for one of the many situations that are given to soldiers in India, and who was the identical gentle- man whom she had commissioned to inquire after me. This individual knew me quite well, and, moreover, to satisfy himself, he called and had an interview with me about the time that Catherine had first spoken to him. But I suppose he thought, as he had now a good situation, all he wanted to complete his happi- ness was a wife, and consequently was deeply interested in making her believe that there was not such a per- son in Bombay. I inquired if she had ever replied to any of these epistles ? She answered in the negative, but said that she had consented to see him that evening. " I suppose," added she, " he thinks that I cannot refuse him because he rides in his buggy" (gig). In short, after many promises to call again on every available opportunity, I took my leave, not so happy as some may imagine; for if I had found my Catherine, I had also found a rival, and one, too, in much better circumstances than myself; in fact, one who was in a position to keep her like a lady. I will now pass over a period of eight months, during which I usually paid her a visit once or twice every week, and was always received with every mark of kindness and affection. My rival also continued to pay his addresses to her, and after revolving the matter over and over in my mind, I could come to no other conclusion than that he was to be her hus- band. Indeed, I could not see how any young woman could so far sacrifice her own interests as to choose me in preference to a far better man. Although she generally showed me what letters she received from him, and treated them with an air of indiffei> A soldier's life in INDIA. 41 ence in my presence, I was disposed to look upon this as intrigue and duplicity, in which females oc- casionally indulge in similar cases. But the sequel of the story will fully prove that deception of any kind could find no place in her bosom. It is a true saying, " Those in love are like nobody else," or I might have easily seen that she ever remained faith- ful and true to me. This I only learned through my chum Jamie, who had accidentally met her in the town. Some remarks passed between them which fully convinced him that 1 was still the object of her affections. This he intimated to me, and on the fol- lowing day I paid her a visit, mustered up courage, and " popped the question," to which she responded thus, " Ah, wh,y do }'0u ask me such a question ? For whom did I leave my once happy home, and all that was dear to me there, but for you, and you only! For whom did I part from kind and beloved parents, brothers, and sisters, in all probability never to be- hold them again, but for you, and you alone! Oh! " she continued, " you have been cool to me of late. What will I do if you treat me ill? Remember what I have sacrificed for your sake. But I think I know the cause of your coolness; you are jealous of that gentleman, but you have no occasion, for I gave him to understand that I could never be his, as soon as I knew his intention ; and if he persisted in sending me an epistle at times, I could not help that. I showed you all his letters, thinking that it was your duty to put a stop to his thus annoying me." I will leave the reader to judge how I parted with my Catherine at this time, and will merely say that I returned to barracks one of the happiest men upon earth. But I soon discovered that my troubles were e2 42 A soldier's life IX IKDIA. not yet all over, for when I returned to her, two days after, to make arrangements about our wedding, I found her in tears. She said that her master was opposed to our union, and that he wished to see me. In an instant I was in his presence, and a long ha- rangue ensued, part of which I must omit for Avant of space. Suffice it to say, that he began to write to my commanding officer, in order to prevent me from get- ting leave to marry; but, starting, he said, " Call Catherine in, and let me hear what she says herself." She soon made her appearance, and he began thus : " Is it possible that you intend to marry this man ?" " Yes," she replied. " Well," he continued, "there is something strange in this. If I am not misinformed there is a very respectable man paying his addresses to you; why not marry him if you want a husband ? " "I would be happier," she replied, " with the one on potatoes and salt than I would be with the other on beef and pudding." '* Well," he added, " I consider that I am bound to act the part of a parent to you here, and I will not allow you to be married to this man." " 0, but I will write home and obtain the consent of my parents," she replied. " If you do that," he rejoined, " and wait their reply, I will do all in my power for you both." The letter was therefore written, and sent off; so here the matter rested for a time. But I began to think, and still more to feel, that twelve months was a long time to wait, and I could not expect an answer much sooner; besides, I was not sure of its being a favourable one ; so I proposed to get married privately. This she would not accede to for some time; but at last she told me to do as I thought proper. I then appointed the following Monday as A soldier's life in INDIA. 43 the day that was to make us happy; and when the eventful day arrived, I, with my chum Jamie, and a young female, waited for her at the time and place appointed. We had not long to wait; and when she made her appearance she seemed to me gayer and lovelier than ever I had seen her before. The mar- riage ceremony being gone through, she returned to her master's, as she did not wish to leave the family abruptly, and I returned to my barracks, as may be imagined, a happy man. I now set to work, in right good earnest, to fit up a room suitable for her reception, and after giving the family with whom she resided due giotice of our true position as man and wife, I marched her into barracks in triumph. The guard at the gate turned out and pre- sented arms to us as we passed, with as much alacrity as if I had been a field-marshal, and I may add with safety that no officer ever raised his hat to a salute with more pleasure than I did on this occasion. My poor Catherine, however, became quite alarmed at all this ceremony, especially when we reached the barrack square, where we were received with sundry cheers. After being seated, her excitement soon passed off, and then she expressed herself highly pleased with our little room and the manner in which I had got it fitted up ; and I may with confidence say that we were the happiest couple that ever occupied it. All was one continued scene of happiness with us for some time. She soon became a general favourite with the ladies in the garrison, and was often out among them ; and many a time, when I was on sentry in the dead hour of the night, on some lonely and secluded spot, would my Catherine steal to my side with something good, and walk with me until she heard the relief coming, 44 when she would vanish like a phantom, lest she should be seen. But 1 am afraid I have trespassed on the time and patience of the reader with the preceding tale of love and matrimony. . I had long ere this discovered that my chum Jamie was not the man that I at first took him to be. His wife had gone to England with some children under her charge, for which she was to receive the handsome sum of eighty pounds, and her return passage. This induced him to intrude more on my company than he otherwise might have done, and as I now possessed a faithful and sincere friend in my wife, I felt anxious to get rid of him. This I found to be no easy matter. My regiment by this time had arrived in the garrison, consequently I had lost my much-esteemed companion Johnny Bain, as he had proceeded with his regiment to Deesa, to give place to the former. I was exceedingly sorry at parting with him, as he was ever a kindhearted, good fellow, possessing the most acute and sensitive feelings of any young man I ever saw, singularly unobtrusive in all his manners, and fearful to give offence. But, like all men, he had a fault, and one, too, which blasted his prospects in the service, viz., indecision, or a want of that firmness essentially requisite to all, but to none more than the soldier. He received preferment on several oc- casions, but could not retain it, through want of this very important qualification. He was promoted to the rank of corporal shortly after I became acquainted with him, on which occasion a rather amusing transaction occurred, which I will endeavour to relate. There was an individual in the same company with Johnny who was recommended for the corporalship, A soldier's life m india. 45 in consequence of his extremely sober habits, caused no doubt by his being a great miser, and of course he would not spend a pice in the canteen for the life of him. This might have been all very well, but he was in other respects a cringing, despicable character, never failing to speak in the most unfavourable terms of his comrades, when his own mercenary purposes were in view. He could neither read nor write, and some one contrived to convey this information to the officer, who at once erased his name out of the pro- motion list, and substituted Bain's. The promotion took place one day when this person was absent on leave; and it appeared that he had frequently pro- mised to give the men a treat when he was made corporal. They resolved, therefore, on his return, to make him believe that it was as he expected, in order to get the treat. He soon made his appearance, and was met by a host of his comrades, all congratulating him on his promotion. The treat was now asked. This was against his creed; and after many evasive replies he said, "Let me get the stripes on first." The stripes were made and ready, and in an instant stitched on his jacket, so he had now no excuse. Off he went to the canteen with a dozen or two at his heels, where they had a glorious " spree" at his expense. At last the sergeant on duty in the canteen stepped forward and asked him what he was doing with a corporal's jacket on ? " Oh," said he, " did you not see the orders to-day? I am made corporal." "What!" said the sergeant, with an air of astonishment, " If you do not be off and take the stripes off, I will be under the necessity of putting you in the guard- room." So my poor would-be corporal was forced 46 A soldier's life in INDIA. to retire, and leave his comrades to finish their grog and laugh at his credulity. Fort George barracks are built close to the beach, a trench only intervening between them and the sea. The cooking houses, &c., stand on pillars on the opposite side of the trench, and are surrounded with water when the tide rises, which serves to carry away all nuisance. Small bridges extend from the barracks across the trench into these cooking houses, &c. The barracks are two-storied erections, and a splendid view can be had of the shipping in the harbour and the surrounding scenery, from the back windows of the upper flat. The men are allowed to wear any kind of clothing they choose, when not wanted for duty. They may be often seen in the square, playing at various games, in fancy trousers of various colours, and numbers of them with straw hats. Permitting the soldiers to wear these fancy articles of dress has certain good effects, as it induces them to take some pride in themselves, and absorbs their spare cash, which might otherwise be spent in a manner injurious to health; besides, it keeps the regimental kit always in good condition. I had myself at one time a whole suit of red tartan — rather an odd dress, certainly, for a soldier. Some may think that granting such liberties may lead to slackness in discipline; but such is not the case, for a better regulated army, both European and native, is not to be found in any country. The sepoys also doff" the regimental dress the moment they come off duty, and substitute the native garb, and then they are only known from other natives by their tall, erect, and soldier-like appearance. Boots and shoes are a very cheap commodity in A soldier's life in INDIA. 47 India. A regimental pair may be had for twelve annas (eighteenpence), and good Wellington boots, newly off the last, are often hawked about the bar- racks at one rupee (two shillings) a pair. Meat and drink are equally cheap; indeed, it would be well for many if the latter were as dear as in England, for I am convinced that two-thirds of the deaths that occur here are caused by intemperance. Fruit is also very cheap and plentiful, and some of it is most delicious. It is all wholesome, if taken in modera- tion, when ripe; but it is not an easy matter for the recruit, whose appetite is keen, to leave off eating mangoes, for instance, when once he has got amongst them, they are so enticing. The only fruit in England, that comes anything near the mango is the wall plum, but the former grows much larger, and has a richer flavour; its colour is of a beautiful yellow, with a red side. The vegetable juice called toddy is very plentiftil in Bombay. It is drawn from the cocoa tree, by making an incision amongst the branches, and attaching thereto an earthen vessel, into which it drops. It is a most delicious drink, and perfectly wholesome, if taken fresh from the tree, in the morning, before sunrise. It is a great treat to those who may have made too free with brandy over night, it is so cool and refreshing. Some of the low-caste natives are in the habit of getting intoxicated with it, as it appears to be as strong as good beer. It looks something like whey, but it ferments, con- sequently there is always a froth on it. It gets sour in a few hours, and then it is unwholesome; but spirits, vinegar, and jagory (a kind of coarse sugar), can be made from it. The bakers also use it in place of yeast. A pint, which may cost a pice or two, is 48 A soldier's life in INDIA. as much as will do any European good. The best way to enjoy a draught of this beverage is to walk out to the trees (or toddy-top, as it is usually called), and there receive it just as it is brought down from the tree. Toddy, though wholesome, should be taken sparingly, and never except when perfectly fresh, as it may produce very bad effects. The Company's arrack is decidedly the safest spirits that the European can consume. It is dis- tilled by Government, expressly for the use of the European troops, and as it is not sold publicly, being confined solely to the canteens, no one can derive any benefit by adulterating it; besides, it must all pass a committee, to see that it is good, before it is offered to the soldiers. It is distilled from rice, and sold to the canteens at two rupees (four shillings) per gallon. A native cannot get it to purchase. He, however, who wishes to study his own interest will keep as much aloof from spirits of any description as possible. The Banyan system of shop-keeping is a treat to the stranger. The flooring of the shop is raised about breast higb, with a few steps to ascend in get- ting into it. The whole front is open to the street, so that there is neither door nor window to the shop. The front is closed in at night by boards, which fit into notches at bottom and top. The centre board is secured by an iron bolt and strange-looking pad- lock, and forms a key to all the rest. The goods are laid out on the floor, and the shopman sits in the centre of them, on his heels, more like a monkey than a human being. He has his scales before him, and everything within his reach, so that he just moves about in his couched-up position, and supplies his customers, who stand in the street until they are 49 served. There are, however, *plendid shops and ware- houses in Bombay, kept both by Europeans and natives, but they have no show windows ; nothing is to be seen outside except the designation of the firm on the door. The Parsees are a very influential class of people here. They marry while mere children. The match is made by the parents, who, if wealthy, expend enor- mous sums on the wedding ceremonies. On these occasions the parties concerned walk in procession through the streets in the following manner: — The bridegroom (who may be about eight years of age) is rigged out like a field-officer, in scarlet coat, cocked hat, &c., and the bride in the dress of a European lady. They are both mounted on horseback, and ride abreast of each other. The former continues raising his hand to his head in the way of saluting, as the procession moves slowly along; and the latter has before her a basket of flowers, which she con- tinues to throw at the youthful bridegroom as they walk onwards. Next to them ride a few of their young friends, in similar garbs. The male adults follow on foot, in long white robes and chintz turbans. A band of music takes the lead of the whole ; and accompanying them are a number of natives, danc- ing and performing a variety of antics. The whole affair is accomplished in a most orderly and decorov\s manner. After the wedding, the bridegroom's father takes the bride home to his house, and attends to her as one of his own children. To convey some- thing like an idea of the age and size of these young- brides, I may add that I have seen them brought to the wives of our men to be decked out for the occasion, and afterwards carried home in the arms of the F 50 A soldier's life in INDIA. females like infants, lest, they should soil their wed- ding robes. Our regimental musical band were often requested to attend at these marriage ceremonies, and other native festivals, for which they were well paid. It is astonishing to witness the dignified airs which soldiers, especially the ignorant, assume in this country. This is owing, no doubt, to the superior manner in which they live, to what they have been accustomed to at home. To hear them speak, if a person were credulous enough, he might be led to believe they were all gentlemen's sons. When trades or profes- sions are spoken of, none of them is willing to admit that he was a labourer previous to enlist- ment; no, he denies the name. If the men are proud, the women are much more so. If they should have the misfortune (or perhaps it may be more applicable to say good fortune) to become widows, they will not deign to look at a priA^ate; nothing so low for them, no, no ; and many will not look at even a sergeant. They must have conductors (warrant officers), aye, and get them too. In a preceding page I have mentioned that Mrs Jamie washed my clothes during the passage out ; but had I hinted such a thing to her six months after our arrival, I should have met with a very sharp retort, if not a " slap" in the face. The women do not wash their own clothes here; and many do not even cook their own victuals. They keep a servant, called cook boy, for that purpose. The Go- vernment allows three Dhobees (native washermen), for each company, who wash for all indiscriminately. Every European woman receives five rupees per month, and two and a~half for each of her children. Thus the soldier's wife, with two children, receives twenty A soldier's life in INDIA. 51 sliilllngs per month in addition to her husband's pay. The allowance made to children may lead to the inference that Government possesses a claim upon them on their arriving at maturity ; but such is not the case. Except that of gratitude, there is no claim whatever. When the boys attain a certain age, their parents, if they choose, can have them entered on boy's pay (tenpence per diem), and then they are at- tached to the band, and taught some musical instru- ment, besides being obliged to attend school. Thus they are paid for acquiring a good English and musical education. Finally, however, they must either legally enlist into the service, or leave- it alto- gether. Those who enlist in India are bound to serve only five years, and receive a bounty of eighty rupees (eight pounds), but they can renew the five years' engagement as often as they please, and receive the bounty at each renewal. Those who enlist in Eng- land receive a gratuity, to the same amount, at the termination of twelve years' service, and the same sum at the expiration of every five years afterwards. But there has been an alteration in this respect since the act which came in force on the 21st of June, 1847, reducing the period of enlistment in England to ten years for infantry, and twelve years for artil- lery. But if I may judge from the liberality of the Honourable Company, I should say that the eighty rupees bounty will still be given to any who may wish to renew their period of service. Of course the infantry soldier will receive it two years earlier than formerly. On a rural and rather interesting spot in the vicinity of Bombay stands the Central School, an esta- blishment for soldiers' children, especially orphans. 52 It consists of two elegant buildings, one for the boys, the other for the girls, with a spacious play-ground in front. In the centre of this space stands a church, for the benefit of the pupils, and any Protestants that may reside in the neighbourhood. The whole has much the appearance of a gentleman's seat. The sexes are kept apart, and not allowed to have any communication with each other, except such as are brothers and sisters. This most humane and bene- ficial institution, though assisted by Government, is supported in a great measure by public subscription. The pupils are lodged, fed, and clothed in the estab- lishment, and when the boys attain a sufficient age they are apprenticed to trades, generally in the Government works, or are sent to the hospitals to be brought up as apothecaries. When the girls arrive at the age of sixteen, their parents, if alive, can take them out of the school; and when this is done the parents have usually husbands in view for them. In such cases of marriage something of the Parsee sys- tem is followed. The match is generally made up by the parents themselves, and often before the young couple ever see each other. When the children are orphans they frequently become the wives of young men who manage to obtain a character from their commanding ofiicer, and are thus introduced to the secretary (generally the chaplain of the church before mentioned), who admits them to the school-room as casual visitors. This usually ends in a matrimonial engagement. In such instances, however, the girl must be married before she is allowed to leave the establishment. From the manner in which these young females are educated, they are as innocent as can well be expected of human nature; so that it A soldier's life in INDIA. 53 rests in a great measure on the management of the husband whether they become good wives or bad ones. They are generally very obedient and submis- sive, even to a degree of simplicity. Soldiers would be performing a laudable and meritorious act by subscribing to the above institution, let their mite be ever so small, more especially married men, for they know not the day when their children may require the benefit of it. Surely it must be a great consola- tion to a dying parent to know that such an excellent asylum is open to his helpless offspring, not as a matter of charity, but as a matter of right. It is true widows and orphans receive pensions in India, perhaps sufficient, when combined, to support a mother and two or three children ; but as the former receives by far the largest sum, should she be taken away, what is then to become of the helpless little ones, if it were not for this institution ? Every soldier ought to feel deeply interested in this establishment; but in place of that, the whole burden of its support is left to a number of benevolent ladies and gentlemen, who can never expect to reap any benefit from it whatever. But perhaps I have said enough on these matters, so I will change the subject. Our regiment at this time was commanded by Colonel T , an officer who, through some mistaken philan- thropic views, was much averse to corporal punishment, or indeed any other kind of punishment, except on the wholesale principle, such as confining all the men to barracks. This state of things could not last long, for evil doers must be punished, either in or out of the army, to give protection and confidence to the well disposed. The regiment soon began to get into a very disorderly state ; the men were often breaking f2 54 A soldier's life IK INDIA. out of barracks and remaining absent for a length of time. This did not escape the vigilance of the higher authorities. One man was absent seven days, but when he returned he was tried by a garrison court- martial, and sentenced to be flogged. The colonel had it not in his power to remit the punishment, so flogged he must be. The regiment being assembled, the colonel commented at some length on the nature of the punishment. The man was tied up, and as we had a few black drummers, one of them was in readi- ness to inflict the first twenty-five lashes. The colonel then called out to him, " Now, mind what you are about, you Pariah : remember you are going to flog a European." The drummer took the hint, and did not punish severely. Colonel T was soon after this withdrawn, and Major F assumed the command. He was just the oflicer the regiment required. He was an excel- lent disciplinarian, I should say one of the best in the service. He soon had our corps in a high state of discipline. He was strict in punishing off'enders, but, at the same time, he held out every encouragement to the good soldier. His system was to drill men as long as they required it, and no longer. That is to say, he would have us out twice a-day until we gave him satisfaction, and then only about twice a-week. If we happened not to please him in the morning, he was sure to have us out again in the evening. This, in my humble opinion, is an excellent system; for men here are induced to study their drill, knowing that the better they make themselves acquainted with it, the less they will get of it. When soldiers are kept constantly at drill, whether they are efficient or not, they can have little inducement to study it. A soldier's life IX INDIA. 55 Major F 's system worked well with us; a better disciplined regiment than he made ours never ma- noeuvred on Dongaree Green. Were I left to select a regiment for myself, I would choose one commanded by a strict disciplinarian. These officers generally devote so much attention to their men as to know the character and disposition of every one of them, and there are none so ready to aid and assist the good soldier; besides, they usually command great influence, and can with little difficulty procure pro- motion for their deserving men. Under such an officer the meritorious class may rely upon not being forgotten. The following story represents an occurrence which took place while I was on the castle guard in Bombay: — After nightfall, the gates being closed, and all secure and quiet, the men as usual commenced to spin " yarns." Ghosts or phantoms became the subject of their dis- course, and although I was ever sceptical in these mat- ters, their various stories were sufficiently interesting to keep me awake. They had all some fearful recital to give of a building which stood convenient to the ten gun battery in the castle, and where a sentry was posted, being infested with evil spirits. As luck would have it I was stationed on this very spot at eleven o'clock, and when left solitary and alone, all the stories that I had just heard crowded upon my memory, and served to awaken fears in my mind of which, with all my disbelief in them, I could not divest myself. The night was rather dark, with a sharp breeze blowing from the sea, which whistled in the windows of the building, made the Vene- tian blinds rattle, and added to the dreariness of the place. I had been on sentry somewhere about 56 an hour, when I saw a huge black thing coming crawling through the sallyport which led to my post. I stood for some minutes looking at it. until it crawled on to my path. I then challenged it with "Who comes there?" No answer being made, I brought my piece down to the charge, and advanced towards it. It then instantly assumed an erect posi- tion, and commenced running. However, it was too late, for I run my bayonet with full force through it, up against the wall of the building, when the bodily part instantly vanished through the sally-port, leaving a soldier's blue cloak firmly secured on the point of my bayonet. I stood bewildered for a short time, when a voice called out, " Sentry, in the name of goodness are you going to murder me. I am the drummer of the guard, and was only intending to give you a fright." He then made his appearance, but kept at a respectful distance, until he was fully satisfied I should do him no harm. Some may think I acted rashly in this instance; but the fact is, I had lost all control over myself, and can only account for his life being saved by his cloak flying behind him from the speed at which he was running. I now inquired if he was injured ? He replied in the negative ; but said that he never had a narrower escape in his life. He now walked to and fro with me during the remainder of my two hours, and in- formed me that he had been in the habit, for a length of time, of giving the sentries a fright on that post, for a little amusement to himself; but that he would never do so again, as long as he lived, and begged of me, as I had discovered the trick, to keep it secret. He then amused me with a recital of the ludicrous j manner in which some of the sentries acted under A soldier's life in INDIA. 57 similar circumstances. It appeared that a person named M'Namara, who was looked upon as a kind of bully in the regiment, threw away his musket, and ran to the next sentry, when he, the drummer, divested himself of his cloak, and went round in another direction, and came upon the two, and found M'Na- mara in the greatest terror imaginable, being, as he was, the victim of two fears, — the ghost, and the breach of discipline in throwing away his musket and deserting his post. After listening to his version of the affair, the drummer said, " What will you give me if I go and bring your musket?" "Oh," replied the sentry, "anything you like." "Well," rejoined the other, " let it be a bottle of brandy, to be drunk after we come off guard." To this he readily as- sented; so away the drummer went, and brought the musket, and was highly complimented for his bravery. He concluded by saying that he had to remain with M'Namara, but all he could do or say, he could not induce him to go within forty paces of the supposed haunted building, until the sound of footsteps an- nounced the approach of the relief. I was more than surprised to hear this account of M'Namara, for in- deed he was an active fellow, and took prizes on several occasions for being the best wrestler and jumper in the regiment; besides, he had the appear- ance of being a bold, forward fellow. Amusing tricks are sometimes practised upon young soldiers, when they first commence their duty. They are taught not to lay down their musket, or deliver it up to any person when on sentry, except to the sergeant of the guard; and it is not uncommon to try them by simply asking for a sight of their piece. An individual, who was not considered too wide awake, 58 A soldier's life in IXDIA. was accosted while on sentry by an officer saying, "That is a very fine piece of yours; let me see it." Of course he instantly delivered it up. The officer cautioned him never to do so again, and explained to him his error, saying, " I might be an enemy in dis- guise, and now I am in possession of your arms, and can do with you as I think proper." Sometime after- wards this officer was on duty, and on going his rounds at night, visiting the sentries, he came upon this individual and found him minus his musket. The officer inquired what he had done with it? To which he replied, " Oh, you are not going to get it this time." The inquiry was persisted in, and at last he went and drew it out of the muzzle of one of the battery guns! On another occasion this man was posted on the advance gate, and the sergeant of the guard cautioned him to be sure and present arms to the major, should he pass that way. In place of doing so, in the usual manner of saluting a field- officer, he brought his piece to the "present," and took a deliberate aim, as if he was going to fire at the officer, who called out most lustily for the sergeant, declaring that the sentry was going to shoot him. My chum Jamie's wife arrived from Englaiid after an absence of about twelve months, with above one hundred pounds in her possession. All went on smoothly and happily with them for a few days; but Jamie soon began to form plans to get rid of the cash as speedily as possible. It was not likely that they were going to walk while they had so much money; so a buggy was called into requisition on every available opportunity for them to sport their figures in; and copious draughts of something stronger than tea were freely circulated among all who deigned A soldier's life IX INDIA. 59 to pay them a visit. Quarrelling and scuffling often ensued, which usually ended in both setting to work and demolishing every breakable article in their room. On the following day they would go out in the buggy as loving-like as ever, and make purchases to replace the demolished crockery, &c. Amongst other articles of finery which she brought from England was a watch for Jamie, and lest the public should not be aware that he possessed such a valuable article, he exhibited a very large ribband, with sundry seals and keys attached, suspended half way down to his knee. Notwithstanding his being repeatedly found fault with on parade for this ridiculous display, he per- sisted in showing off his appendages. It was well that this watch was above the ordinary strength, or it might have been torn in pieces ; for in their broils she was in the habit of flying at him like a tigress, and endeavouring to wring it from his firm grasp, saying that it was not his but hers. At last the money was exhausted, and then they settled down, and became something like themselves again, when Mrs Jamie, like the sailor, proposed to go to sea for more. The well-known fact that a superfluity of money renders some people who have not been ac- customed to it more wretched than happy, was clearly demonstrated in this instance. It is somewhat re- markable that beggars will be beggars still, give them thousands of pounds. Should it not prove the death of them, they will soon come down to their original position ; or should they be supplied with funds inexhaustible, they will still retain the beggarly disposition. But to return more directly to my nar- rative, and to matters in closer connection with mvself. 60 A period of above eight months had now elapsed since I became united to my Catherine, and I may add that I look back on this as being the happiest period of my existence. She had many calls to attend upon ladies when they were in that state in which they all wish to be "who love their lords," or when there was sickness in their families, for which she was hand- somely remunerated. Indeed she earned five or six times the amount of my pay. These calls became too frequent, for she would no sooner have returned from one lady than there would come a palanquin to convey her to another. This caused me to feel at being so much deprived of her society, and when urging her to stay at home she would remark, " When I leave you it is with feelings far from pleasant to me, but I am consoled under it by knowing that it is all for our own good ; for I am daily accumulating money which may prove of great service to us on some future day. If people do not save money in their youth, there is little use in attempting to do so when old. Should we continue as we are now doing, we shall soon be in possession of a handsome sum, and then I shall have no occasion to leave you as I now do." She would go on saying, " You do not join your comrades in their amusements or recreations, as it was your wont to do, previous to our marriage; you never go to the canteen. I should be sorry to see you fond of drink like some of them, but I trust that you do not place yourself under any restraint on my account. Whatever is pleasing to you, is a source of happiness to me ; it is my wish to add to and not diminish in any way what may enhance your happi- ness." In a word, " In each other's joy we both rejoiced." But, alas! true happiness is of short A soldier's life m india. 61 duration in tliis life. She had been in the town as usual, waiting upon a lady, and, on her return, com- plained of being very unwell. I became greatly alarmed, and insisted that she should not go out any more. The doctor was sent for, and gave it as his opinion that she had over-exerted herself, and, besides, caught cold. He kindly attended her for some time in our own room, but at last expressed a wish that she should be removed to the hospital, as he would be better enabled to prescribe the necessary remedies for her there. This intimation fell upon my ear like a death knell ; the doctor perceiving this, said that he would obtain for me exemption from duty, in order that I might remain in the hospital with her. This con- soled me to a certain degree, and I at once procured a palanquin, and had her removed ; and, fortunately, there were no female patients in the hospital at the time, so that we got the whole ward to ourselves. In other circumstances, I could not have had free access to the place, or been allowed to remain with her ; but, as it was, I can only say that no mother ever attended her dying child with greater care and attention than I attended my Catherine. Dreary nights and days passed away without sleep ever closing my eyes. One day after reading to her as usual, she expressed herself as being much relieved, and said that she hoped soon to be quite well again, and urged me to lie down and repose myself, as she was afraid that I would get laid up also. But, if grief kept me awake before, joy had the same effect now. She continued her observations, saying that she knew I was averse to being absent from my duty, and that I might return to it on the following day. I looked upon this intimation as a farther indication of her being in a fair way of re- Gt 62 A soldier's life in INDIA. covery ; and, after remaining all night with her, I mounted guard in the morning. During the day I felt much elated in spirits, making sure that she was progressing favourably, and would be much improved by the time my turn of duty was over. But alas ! — - " To-day man's face is covered with smiles ; to-morrow he is the picture of despair." On the evening of this to me never-to be-forgotten da}^, I observed a mes- senger from the hospital hastening towards me ; on approaching, he said it was necessary I should be relieved off guard, as there was a change. He pro- ceeded to say more, but this was all that I fieard. The man's manner told daggers which pierced to the very core of my heart ; consciousness left me ; and, when I revived, I found myself stretched on a cot in the guard-room, with my accoutrements off, and my clothes unfastened. I was then told I was at liberty to pro- ceed to the hospital. It is needless to say that I lost no time in doing so ; but, to give a minute detail of what followed, w^ould be anything but pleasant to my feelings, and, perhaps, prove of little interest to the general reader. I will, therefore, pass it over as briefly as possible. On entering the ward, I found my poor w^ife sur- rounded by most of the respectable females belonging to the regiment. One of them was reading the Scriptures to her, while she herself appeared to be fast sinking. The instant she observed me she held out her arms and endeavoured to rise up on her couch to receive me, exclaiming, " Oh, my dear boy, have you come at last ? I was afraid I should die without seeing you. You have, indeed, been dear to me, and I am extremely sorry to part from you so soon. Here, take this ring, and wear it for my sake, (at the same A soldier's life in INDIA. 63 time putting it on my finger). Here is my Bible; I have marked out some passages for you to study; and, oh, I beseech you, prep^^re to meet me in eternal bliss ; and take these ear-rings," she continued, " although they will be of little use to you. Oh ! prepare to meet me where sorrow and sighing are no more. I know you will not be long in following me, as you are not fit for this world." To add to my grief, the nurse presented to me the body of a still-born male child; but it occupied little of my thoughts. I looked at it, and that was all; and then I turned to the object of my affection, who was, at this time, shaking hands with, and taking farewell of, all who were present, as coolly and collectedly as if she had only been taking a temporary leave of them, earnestly beseeching them all to make preparation for the coming day. On again turning her eyes on me, she said, " Oh ! if it were not for you, I could leave this world without a tear." I inquired where she felt pain ; to which she replied, " I feel no pain, but I feel the breath leaving my body. I have never felt much pain; my Saviour has been good to me, and I know that he is ready to receive my spirit. I sometimes fancy that I hear a whispering in my ear, saying, ' Come, ye blessed of my Father, inherit the Kingdom prepared for you from the begin- ning of the world.' " On observing those around her shedding tears, she said, " Oh ! may I not repeat the words of my Saviour, ' Weep not for me, but weep for yourselves ! ' " After a pause, she said, " I should have liked to have seen my dear parents, but that is impossible; write home, and say that I leave them my blessing." " Now," she added, *' kiss me for the last time. Now, I beseech you all to leave me with my Saviour, for my time is precious." She now prayed 64 A soldier's life IX INDIA. most fervently for a short time, and then sung, in a feeble but sweet voice, that beautiful little hymn which begins with — "The hour of my departure's come, I hear the voice that calls me home," After singing the h}Tnn she engaged again in praj^er ; but her voice soon became so feeble as to be quite inaudible. At this juncture the minister en- tered. On being made acquainted with the state of her mind he expressed much regret at not being sent for sooner.! He offered up a prayer, but before he had finished it her spirit took its flight. This occurred about two hours after I entered the hospital, and after being married only nine months and seven days. To attempt to give the reader the most remote idea of the state of my mind, at this time, would be undertaking an impossibility; I stood, as it were, alone in the world — a stranger in a foreign land — without one relative to console me. It is true, I met with many kind friends, who deeply sympa- thized with me, and did all in their power to console me, but their efPorts were of no avail. All was a blank to me without my Catherine. In the meantime, pre- parations were made for the funeral. Mother and child were laid in one coffin, and all the women con- nected with the regiment, together w^th the whole of the company I belonged to, followed in procession, and saw them consigned to that place " from whence no traveller returns." After seeing the grave closed upon all that was dear to me in this life, we returned to barracks, w^here I fell into a state of despondency, and became utterly regardless of myself. Life had no longer any charms for me. Like many other weak- minded men, I gave way to indulgence in the glass to A soldier's life m india. 65 drown my grief. The canteen soon became my favourite resort; men who were despised by me before now became my associates; and not a few of them readily availed themselves of my weakness, to borrow money of me, which, it is needless to remark, they forgot to repay. After indulging freely in liquor over night, I always awoke miserably depressed in spirits in the morning ; yet, strange to say, I invariably ap- peared clean and respectable on parade, and I never for a moment forgot the duty I owed to my deceased wife. A letter was written to her parents, in accord- ance with her dying request, and I enclosed a draft for sixty-two pounds of her own earnings, which I thought would be sufficient to convince them that I had married their daughter, not for money, but from the purest motives. I also caused to be erected at her grave a splendid head-board, stone not being procur- able, so that large massy boards, shaped like tomb- stones, were usually substituted. And after the usual inscription of sacred to the memory, &c., &c., I had inscribed on it the following lines : — ^' She's dead. Ah, no ! she's gone to some f;ir happier shore ! She lives, but, ah, she lives for me no more." READER, Awake your soul, awake and hear The important call addressed to you ; Prepare, prepare to meet your God While mercy's door stands yet in view. I felt the bitterness of my lot, and when others went out to enjoy themselves, I went out to mourn over the grave of my Catherine. On returning from one of those visits, about a month after her decease, I was informed that I was promoted to the rank of corporal. This intimation I would have received with pleasure, had g2 66 A soldier's life in INDIA. my wife been alive ; but now it had the reverse effect. Indeed, I was on the point of going to the officer to beg to be excused from accepting of the corporalship, when I was intercepted, and prevented from doing so, by a sergeant who had my interest at heart. Shortly after this, a friend of mine, who belonged to the Sappers and Miners, having heard of my be- reavement, wrote to say that he intended to pay me a visit on a certain day, which he named. It so happened that the day mentioned was one on which I was for duty, but 1 at once resolved to go to the adjutant, and solicit to be excused from mounting guard, and, at the same time, ask leave of absence. Previous to doing so, however, I went over to the canteen and had a double-header, to enable me to put on a bold front; for the man who is addicted to the use of spirits feels afraid to face his superior unless he is stimulated withf.liquor. On telling my tale to the adjutant, he said, " Well, I hope this friend of yours is a better man than some you have been asso- ciating with of late. However, I grant your request. Tell the sergeant-major, from me, to warn another corporal for your turn of duty." This was all I wanted, and as he had given me a broad hint regard- ing my companions, I thought it was time to be off, so I wheeled to the right-about and was making for the door, when he called out, " Stop, stop, I am not done with you yet ; come here. How is it that I observe you going so frequently to the canteen of late. This was not the case when your vdfe was alive. I trust that you do not labour under the foolish impression that resorting to drink will serve to drown care. If you do, you will find your- self most miserably deceived, and ultimately blast A soldier's life in INDIA. 67 your prospects in this life, as well as every hope of happiness hereafter. You have every reason to con- clude that your late wife is infinitely happier than she could possibly be in this world. It is, therefore, your duty, as well as paramount interest, to make every preparation to meet her in a future state. You must be fully aware that drunkenness is, of itself, a great sin, and can only lead to utter destruction." He would have said more, but a consciousness of guilt on my part, taken in connection with the impressive manner in which I was admonished, filled my heart with 6motion almost to bursting, the effects of which soon became visible. On observing this, he said, " Go to your quarters, and I hope soon to see you as good a man as you were formerly." 1 now returned to barracks vidth a heart as heavy as if I had been guilty of some horrible crime ; and, as it was near time to retire to rest, I stretched myself on my cot, but not to sleep; for after the lights were extinguished, and all had become still, a multitude of thoughts crowded upon my memory, which served to awaken within me a deep sense of my error, and to draw from me strong resolutions to change my course of life. I had previously formed similar resolution's, but they had all vanished with the opening of the canteen in the morning; and, on this occasion, I felt sorry that the lateness of the hour did not admit of my committing my determinations to paper, so as I might not forget them. But I at last hit upon an expedient which I have ever looked back to with satis- faction. I got hold of my trousers, and put a knot upon one of the legs of them, and then fell asleep, and continued so until I was awoke by the noise of the men preparing for parade. I jumped up and com- 68 A soldier's life in ixdia. menced dressing also, but was somewhat surprised to find that I could not insert my legs into my trousers; and, as men whose blood is inflamed by the use of liquor are in general peevish and easily irritated, I, in this instance, was no exception, for I felt inclined to quarrel even with my own trousers — giving them an angry pull, which rent them to such a degree as to render them perfectly unfit for use. In an instant the knot on the leg, and the cause of it being there, rushed to my recollection. I then rolled my rent trousers carefully up, and placed them in a corner of my box, and substituted another pair. After parade I was hailed by my former associates, and requested to go over to the canteen to get my morning, as usual, but I was inexorable . One of them laid hold of me to drag me along, saying, " Come along, man, you are getting into one of your dull moods again. You are never better than when you have two or three drams in you." But I was not to be done so easily; persuasions and entreaties were used, but in vain. Here I again experienced the truth of my own axiom, viz., that it is an easy matter to take up with evil companions in the army, but it is a very difiicult matter to get rid of tliem. I had to undergo their taunts and sneers for some time; they had not the desired effect, but rather, like an oft-told tale, fell listless upon mine ear. I can only add that the adjutant had the pleasure of seeing me as good a man as formerly. Henceforth, he nor any other officer had ever occasion to accuse me of being in the slightest degree the worse of liquor. The torn trousers, with the knot carefully preserved on the leg, lay at the bottom of my box for a number of years ; and I occasionally created a laugh by exhibiting them, and relating their adventure. A soldier's life in INDIA. 69 My friend from the Sappers and Miners arrived at the time appointed, carrying in his hand a small bag of rupees, which he threw upon my cot, saying, " There, that will do you and me as long as I remain at Bombay." It may be necessary here to state that bank notes were not then in circulation in India, and gold is precluded from being much used as a coin, in consequence of its having no standard value, so that cash payments were invariably made in silver. Thus a person having to draw, say to the value of fifty pounds, would have to hire a coolie to carry it for him. However, there is an excellent conveyance in the shape of hoondies, which are procurable at every station. Thus, for instance, a person about to re- move from the interior to Bombay, pays his money over to a respectable native merchant, who will sup- ply him with a slip of coarse common-looking paper, all written over in characters not one of which he is able to decipher; but on his arrival at his destination, he has only to present his hoondy or strange-looking money order to some shopkeeper, and he will at once direct him to the person on whom it is made payable. My friend had availed himself of one of these, and had it cashed previous to coming to me. I certainly did not like to see the bag of rupees, and especially the liberal manner in which he appeared to be willing to dispose of it, as I thought it indicated something like a spree; but I lost no time in communicating to him my determination to avoid dram- drinking, and was not a little gratified to find that he applauded my resolution, saying, at the same time, that no temptation should be thrown across my path by him. We then proceeded to the town; and as there is always a number of buggies standing convenient to 70 A soldier's life in INDIA. the barrack gate for hire, we engaged one of them for the day, and visited some of the most interesting places in and around Bombay. My friend, who was a very intelligent young man, was exceedingly full of fun and frolic, and did everything in his power to expel the gloom that still hung over my spirits, and I must admit that he succeeded to a certain extent. After remaining with me for a few days, he returned to his station, and subsequently rose to the rank of conductor in the service. Every succeeding day now brought ^dth it fresh life and vigour to my spirits, which induced me to look upon my former conduct with disgust, and wonder within myself how it was possible that any man could become a drunkard. There is a degree of tranquillity reigns in the breast of the temperate- living man to which the drunkard is an utter stranger. I have often thought that if the latter could but only have a short trial of a sober life, he would be sorry to return again to his sottish condition. But, unfor- tunately, this is not the case ; for I have witnessed instances of soldiers vigorously refraining from liquor for years together, and regularly remitting all the money they could possibly spare to the savings bank, and yet ultimately break out, march to the bank with their small deposit book, draw the whole of their savings, and never cease drinking until they landed in the hospital, from whence they were carried to their grave. I have seen with my own eyes, men staggering with drink, enter the savings bank and demand their money; aye, and receive it too. From this, I would be disposed to suggest that men who may have accumulated a considerable sum in this way should not be allowed to draw above a certain A soldier's life in INDIA. 71 portion of it without the sanction of their command- ing officer. The Government savings bank is of great benefit to the industrious soldier ; therefore, it is much to be deplored if it should, in a single instance, prove a curse instead of a blessing. Besides ample security, he receives a high rate of interest ; and, although stationed in the most remote parts of India, his savings, if he wishes, are transmitted to this bank through his commanding officer, without the slightest trouble or inconvenience on his part. A few words as to how I now passed my time might not be con- sidered out of place. Immediately after parade, in the morning, I would set to work, and clean every article belonging to me. No cleaning boy for me; indeed, I could not see the utility of employing another to do that which I had abundance of time to do myself. This process sel- dom occupied me more than an hour. For when a soldier's accoutrements are regularly attended to they are easily kept in good order. This done, I would proceed to the bathing-shade, soap and towel in hand, and have a thorough good bathe, return and dress in light clothes, as pure and white as soap, water, and the sun could make them; consisting of loose trousers,' drawn together and tied round the waist, with a run- ning string, white cotton socks, and red leather slip- pers, and then lounge on my cot and read, with as much conceit as an Indian chief. Here I would con- tinue until the bugle sounded for grog and dinner, after which there was generally half an hour or an hour's revelry; but I would retire to my couch, and again resume my book, and perhaps drop oiBP to sleep. And in the evening, if there was no parade, which was frequently the case, I would proceed to the ball- 72 alley and have a smart game at ball, and subsequently retire to the library, or perhaps walk on the green in front of the barracks, in company with a companion or two, whose views were reciprocal to my own. By way of change, I would occasionally stroll into the town, and visit a few friends who had been more fortunate than myself in procuring situations, by being tradesmen suitable for the public departments, and who, consequently, occupied houses in the town. The docks were also a favourite resort of mine, as there I was almost sure to find a British vessel laid up for repairs, and get the news of home from the sailors. Towards the end of the year 1829, a volunteer offer was given for a number of us to join the artillery, and, as I had a predilection for the blue jacket, I was one of the first to tender my services, although strongly advised to the contrary by my friends, saying that I should have to join the artillery as a private, or gunner (as they are styled in this branch of the ser- vice), whereas I was at this time senior corporal of my company, and, consequently, first for sergeant. In the month of January, 1830, 1, in company with others, matched to the town barracks, a distance of about half-a-mile, to join our new corps ; but not without feelings of regret, when I looked back upon the happy days 1 had spent in Fort George Barracks, and the many kind friends I had left there, both officers and men ; and as the regiment I had just left was about to proceed up the country, it was probable I would never see them again. These, together with incidents in connection with my deceased wife, created feelings in my breast which caused my heart to cling to the spot ; and although years have rolled on, and LIFE IN INDIA. 73 intervened, I still continue to cherish fond feelings towards Fort George Barracks. I thought on this occasion to have got rid of my chum Jamie, but he, like an evil spirit, was again present with me. The change I had made proved anything but pleasant for a considerable time, although I was not reduced to a private, as I anticipated, but allowed to retain the rank of bombardier. I soon discovered that I had to begin afresh to establish a character for myself. The man who is doing well in one regiment does not serve his own interest in re- moving to another, for he is almost sure to be put in the back ground in the way of promotion. However, the case is diflFerent with those who may possess bad characters, and feel anxious to reform, as they have certainly a better opportunity of doing so amongst strangers, where their previous evil deeds are not known. I saw several instances of this kind amongst our party, of individuals who, when separated from former vicious associates, became altered men, and obtained promotion as rapidly, if not more so, than I did. I now commenced a course of all the various kinds of big gun drill, together with sword drill, which formed a source of amusement to me, for I never felt drill irksome, unless when I had nothing to learn. I have often heard it argued that exercising with the heavy guns is laborious. This is an absurd idea, for although there may be a heavy lift occasionallyj the number of hands makes it light work. I was somewhat amused with a sergeant here, who was, in reality, a singular one ; indeed, it was a mystery to many how this individual ever attained the rank he held, for he was a slovenly soldier, and H 74 A soldier's life m ii^dia. much addicted to the glass. However, he was famed for running after the sergeant-major, and making him acquainted with every petty transaction that occurred amongst the men in the barrack room, for which he became generally detested, so much so, that the men in his room extinguished the lights one night, and set upon Paddy (as he was usually called), and gave him a sound thrashing. His cries alarmed the whole barracks, and when some of us ran into the room with lights, we found ever)' man stretched on his cot, and all quiet, with the exception of poor Paddy, who was lying on the floor, moaning as though he had been breathing his last. None would give information as to who the maltreaters were, so that all the men in the room were paraded before the com- manding officer on the following morning, who tried in vain to discover the guilty parties. At last he fixed his eye upon an Irishman, who was standing gaping with his mouth open as though his ignorance of the whole afPair left him quite bewildered, and ac- costed him thus : — " Pra}^ where was you when the lights were put out ? " To which he replied — " Me, Sor ? " " Aye, you," said the officer. " I was in the dork (dark) Sor." I may add, that I subsequently learned that this individual was one of the guilty party. An order existed (and very proper, too) against carrying liquor into barracks. Paddy, to do him justice, was very alert in detecting offenders in this respect. On one occasion he caught a young man in the act of bringing in a bottle of brandy. The offender was lodged in the guard-room, and the bottle placed under the especial care of the sentry, but during the night some of the hopeful bo3^s succeeded in drinking the brandy, and substituted in its stead a certain 75 nameless fluid, taking care to leave the bottle appa- rently untouched, and, at the same time, instructirij^^ the offender to say that it was a bottle he found on the green, and that he did not know what it contained. Next morning, Paddy called for the bottle, as a proof of the prisoner's guilt, and posted off with it to the commanding officer as proud as a policeman with a good case. But when the prisoner came to tell his story about finding the bottle on the green, the officer turned to Paddy and asked him if he was sure it was brandy. " Yes, Sir," said he, " I'll take my oath it is brandy." " 0, then, you are sure it is brandy." " Yes, Sir, perfectly sure." " Well, then," continued the officer, " extract the cork and make me as sure as yourself," at the same time sending for a cork- screw and tumbler; but Paddy, in the interval, applied his fingers to the cork, which came out rather easy. He then raised the bottle to his head, and tasted its contents two or three times. At last he began to spit and shake his head, " What," said the officer, " you are not such a stranger to brandy as all that, are you ?" A tumbler was now produced, into which a portion of the liquid was poured, the colour of which, toc^ether with the offensive effluvia, at once convinced the officer that it was not the kind of liquor Paddy was so ready, upon his oath, to prove it to be. It is almost needless to say that the prisoner was dismissed without punishment. But not so with poor Paddy, for the officer gave him a most severe reprimand, saying he was not worthy of the rank he held, if he was so ready with his oaths against a comrade soldier. However, Paddy was not destined to reign long, as he was shortly after this reduced to a private. In the month of December, 1830, a detachment, 76 A soldier's life IX INDIA. consisting of two bombardiers and forty gunners, were required to proceed to Bhooj, in tlie province of Cutch, to reinforce a company there. As I had fre- quently heard flourishing accounts of the interior, I resolved to have my name enrolled as one of the party; but before leaving Bombay, it may be deemed necessary to say a few w^ords in the way of giving a description of this most interesting place. A few words, I say, because my limited space will not admit of me doing anything like justice to it. Bombay, as many of my readers must be aware, is a small island, lying in lat. 18^ 56' north, long. 72^ 57' east. The fort, or town of Bombay, is situated at the south-eastern extremity of the island, and presents to the sea a formidable battery bristling with guns. This battery, together with a deep trench, surrounds the town on the land side, and forms altogether a fortifi- cation of which the English reader, who has never travelled, can form little idea. There are three entrances into the fort, named respectively the Appolla, Main, and Bazaar gates ; at each of these the walls and trenches are double, so that in entering the town you pass over two draw-bridges and through two gateways, where a sentry is always posted. Inside, the fort (besides a mass of native dwellings and shops) exhibits many splendid buildings, such as the town hall, new mint, governor's house, the two churches (English and Scotch,) a host of public offices and commercial establishments, the docks, and the castle, the walls of which stand very prominent, being washed by every succeeding tide. A flag-staff is erected on its highest tower to signalise the shipping. The military stores and treasure in the castle are immense. Many of the European artillerymen are here employed as labora- A soldier's life in INDIA. 77 tory men, artisans, &c., for which, of course, they receive extra pay. On a green enclosure, in the centre of the town, stands a beautiful statuary monument to the memory of Lord Cornwallis. The view from the fort is exceedingly picturesque. The smooth expanse of the bay being broken by the mountain isles (adorned with trees to their sum- mits) of Salsette, Elephanta, Sac, together with the great number of shipping that are at all times moored in it. Malabar Point, where a number of pilgrims annually resort, and Colhaba, with its lighthouse, add to the grandeur of the scene. A pensioned European soldier is stationed on each of the small islands con- venient to Bombay, where they live a retired but comfortable life. They receive an allowance from Government besides their pension, and the soldiers give them the high appellation of governors. The one stationed on Elephanta has the most enviable situation, as he receives many perquisites in the way of showing the celebrated caves in that island. The fort is separated from the town of Dongaree by a large plain commonly called Dongaree Green or the Esplanade, which is studded with wells of excel- lent water. Here a lively scene is exhibited every evening by the worshippers of the sun, who assemble from all parts in their white flowing robes and coloured turbans, to prostrate themselves before his retiring beams, together with gaily dressed European ladies and gentlemen in their splendid equipages, taking their evening airing, or listening to the governor's band, which is stationed therefor the amusement of the public. The face of the country beyond Dongaree is covered with the beautiful villas of the European gentry. Perhaps there is no place where a greater diversity h2 78 A soldier's life m india. of character is exhibited than at Bombay. Here tve have people of every creed, and from almost every nation. Besides the Hindoos and Mahomedans, there are various other tribes of natives, such as the Parsees, the ancient worshippers of fire. Many of this class are opulent, and take the lead in the commercial transactions of the island. Their general conduct, like the other natives, is quiet, orderly, and respect- ful. Their garb consists of long white flowing robes, with a turban of glazed chintz, peculiar to them- selves, by which they are easily recognised. They are of a brownish complexion, and are good-looking. They love to be corpulent, and many of them are very much so. They make provision for all their own poor, and there is not a single prostitute belong- ing to their caste. They have a great veneration for dogs; and it is said that when a Parsee is dying he likes to fix his last gaze upon one of these animals. They do not burn or bury their dead like the other natives, but expose the bodies on iron gratings, sur- rounded by a high wall, where they are left to de- compose. The Hindoo women wear a short boddice, which covers and holds up the breasts, and fastens behind. The sa- ree, a long piece of coloured silk or cotton, is wrapped round the loins in the form of a petticoat, but so tucked up as to leave part of one leg bare, while the other is covered to the ankle, with long graceful folds gathered up in front, so as to leave one end of the saree to come over the shoulders, and form a drapery, which is sometimes thrown over the head as a veil. The waist, in many cases, is exposed. The Mussulman and Parsee women have nearly the same dress, in addition to which they wear long loose trousers. 79 The hair is drawn back from the face, and fastened in a knot behind. It is common to see them literally loaded with jewellery. Large massive silver rings, called bangles, are worn from the ankle to the calf, and from the wrist to the elbow, which puts one in mind of a convict in irons. I have frequently seen them with pieces of linen wrapped round the bangles to prevent them from chafing the legs. The toes are also sometimes decked with rings of the same descrip- tion, while the fingers, ears, and nose, are adorned with gold rings, set with precious stones. The Par- see women, who are really handsome and good-look- ing, and much fairer than the men, dress more gay than the other classes, the saree being frequently of fine green silk, with a small bird's eye spot in it; orange is also a favourite colour with them. When a Hindoo woman becomes a widow, she is stripped of all her jewels, has her head shaved, and become^ a servant in the house of which she was formerly mis- tress, and of course not allowed to marry again. Here we have mosques and temples innumerable, but the largest one is situated in Dongaree, rather more than a mile from the fort. It is dedicated to Momba Devee, or the Bombay goddess. Connected with this pagoda, and within a square enclosed by high walls, there is a beautiful tank or well, built of freestone, near to which sits a devotee, in a couched- up position, with a flower pot on his hand. It is confi- dently asserted that he has remained constantly in this position, without the pot ever having been removed, for a number of years. His arm is contracted and dried up like a rotten stick, and the nails of his fingers have grown to such an extent that they project over and around the flower pot like ram's horns. This indi- 80 A soldier's life in INDIA. vidual is looked upon as a great curiosity, and is visited by almost every stranger who arrives on the island. We have a considerable native police force in Bombay, superintended by a number of European soldiers taken from the ranks and styled constables. These individuals are handsomely paid, though per- haps not overly, for they must keep up a respectable appearance, or they would not be able to retain that authority over the natives which it is necessary they should do. This situation is not popular in the army, as the soldiers appear to look upon anything bordering upon the name of policeman as something beneath them. Although the constables receive somewhere about treble the pay of an artillery sergeant, it is rare to find a person of that rank ready to accept of the situation. These constables are known from civilians by wearing a white hat with a small silver plate in front of it. Notwithstanding the immense concourse of people here, somewhat about 400,000, it is very rare to see a single individual disorderly in the streets, except (I am sorry to say) it be a drunk British sailor, or, per- haps, a soldier. There are three seasons in the year in India, namely, the cold, hot, and rainy seasons. The cold season extends from November to February, the hot from March to May, and the rainy from June to October. Thus we have eight months dry weather, and four months alternate rain and sunshine. I must now conclude my short description by simply saying, that callous, indeed, must the mortal be who can traverse the island of Bombay without being deeply interested. The time having arrived for us to proceed to our A soldier's life in ixdia. 81 new station, we embarked on board an Indian coast- ing craft called a pattamar, for Maundiavie, a seaport in the province of Cutch, distant about 500 miles. As I before stated, our detachment consisted of two bombardiers and forty gunners; we had twenty-four days' provisions on board, and as the other bombar- dier was senior to me he was placed in charge of the stores, to supply us with our daily rations; and as each man was allowed two drams of arrack per diem, we were no sooner on board than he began to serve out the grog, which I observed him do rather pro- fusely, giving many of his favourites a double allow- ance. The idea naturally struck me that all the liquor he had in charge would have to be accounted -for, so I offered to lend him my assistance; but my services were declined, at least so far as the serving out of the grog was concerned. On the second day I found many of the men in a state of intoxication, and some of them with their mess utensils full of arrack. I now learned that he was disposing of the liquor to any one who thought proper to purchase it. I re- monstrated with him, but to no avail. We had a young officer in charge, but he became indisposed, probably from sea-sickness, so that the bombardier was allowed to go on without interruption. The men continued drinking and singing throughout the voyage, which was, in other respects, a very pleasant one, as we kept close into the coast, and had a splendid view as we went smoothly along, under a light but favourable breeze. On the evening of the sixth day we arrived at Maundiavie, where we were met by a sergeant, who had tents pitched, and everything ready for our reception; a conductor was also in waiting to receive over the surplus stores from my imprudent comrade 82 A soldier's life IX INDIA. bombardier, who had but a sorry account to give of his stewardship. We remained at Maundiavie all the following day, which gave me the opportunity of going out on an exploring excursion, of which I readily availed myself. I soon discovered the people here to be more of a martial character than at Bom- bay, many of them being armed with swords and shields. A number of these armed men got around me, and, not being acquainted with their language, I began to have doubts as to my safety, particularly as one of them kept forcing a sword into my hand, which led me to believe that they wanted me to fight with one of them. But at last I learned, through the few words of the language I possessed, together with their gestures, that they wanted me to show them our sys- tem of performing the sword exercise. I had little difficulty in satisfying their curiosity in this respect, whereupon they began, one after another, to show me a specimen of their abilities, which appeared to me paltry and irregular. The town of Maundiavie is of considerable dimen- sions, and is surrounded by a high well-built wall. There is a good deal of traffic carried on by small craft, such as the one that brought us from Bombay; but as there is no proper quay or wharf, the small vessels used in the traffic are run up a creek at high water, and by throwing their sides on the bank, they are compara- tively easily loaded or unloaded. There is little about Maundiavie to attract particular attention, yet I found sufficient to gratify my taste for sight-seeing, On the morning of Christmas, 1830, we took the road for our new station at Bhooj, distant about forty- two miles in the interior; and proceeded through a tract of country partially cultivated for the growth A soldier's life IX INDIA. 83 of the cotton plant, and various kinds of country grain, in addition to wheat, which was growing most luxu- riantly; however, the greater portion of the land was lying waste, and covered with jungle. We surprised a good deal of game on the way, which made me regret very much that I had neither powder nor shot. After a pleasant march of about eight miles we arrived at a small village, where we halted for the day, and bivouacked under a large banyan tree in preference to pitching our tents. We now set all our wits to work to raise a Christmas dinner. The conductor kindly offered to give us extra grog in lieu of our sweetmeat money (a small sum allowed to each soldier on Christmas day, as well as on other three holi- days in the year). We all agreed to give up this sum, which added considerably to our usual allow- ance. Flour and plums were also procured, and, having a few married men amongst us, their wives very kindly threw aside their assumed Indian dignity, and commenced to figure in the capacity of cooks and scullions. Our poor native cooks were completely superseded on this occasion. As for myself, I went to the conductor and begged or borrowed some powder and shot, and, with my fusil under my arm. I sallied forth into the fields and jungle in search of game with all the ardour of a Cockney sportsman, and, for a time, with apparently as little skill, for all the par- tridges at which I fired appeared to be shot proof. A hare also crossed my path, but it happened to be running too quick. I now discovered that it was one thing to fire at a target, and another thing to shoot game. On looking at my small stock of ammunition I became a little alarmed, and resolved to use what remained more cautiously. The report of my piece 84 roused many pea-fowl, some of which I observed to perch upon an adjacent tree. I now resolved to try my hand upon them, and, by stealth, I succeeded in getting under the tree, levelled my piece, fired, and, to my unspeakable joy, one of them came rustling through amongst the branches, and fell dead at my feet. To be brief, I bagged three peacocks and some pigeons; but, on reaching the camp, I found that some of my comrades had been more fortunate than me, for they brought in both hares and partridges. Cooking was now the order of the day, and, in a short time, a dinner was served up that would not have disgraced an alderman. The glass went merrily round, and the air was rent with " God save the King," «&c. The two following marches took us through a range of country much similar to that passed on the preced- ing day. The mornings being much sharper at this season than at Bombay, induced us to march at a qviick pace to keep ourselves warm. I may add that we were all in high spirits, the novelty of the scene being a treat to many of us who were young in the country. On the third day we reached a village of some note called Cutchcarry, where, on an eminence overlooking the village, stands a splendid mosque, surrounded by a high wall. The village, at some distant period, had also been w^alled in, as part of the ruins are yet to be traced. The produce here consists principally of sugar cane and tobacco, together with badgaree and jewarra (Indian grain), much used by the natives in making coarse bread in the same man- ner as the Scotch make oat cakes. Carrots, onions, &c., grow in the fields in abundance. The castor oil plant is found in great quantities along the fences, and furnishes a cheap light for the poorer class of A soldier's life in INDIA. 85 natives, by simply gathering the nuts and boiling them in water; and, when cold, the oil is easily extracted from the top. The oftener it is boiled in this way the finer it becomes. Next morning we resumed our route, and after passing over a remarkably rough road, where some of our baggage carts were upset, and subsequently through a range of hills, we reached an extensive plain, at the extremity of which we could plainly dis- cern our barracks, situated at the base of a hill, crowned by a fort. Another hour and a half and we were safely housed, where we found a splendid repast awaiting us, at the expense of our new comrades, to which the reader may well suppose we did ample justice. I felt highly pleased with our new quarters, which were neat and commodious, consisting of two separate barrack rooms, a canteen, library, school-room, cook- house, and a few cottages for married people, all laid out so as to form a square, outside of which stood a f^ bathing sheds, together with an excellent ball- court. But as there were not cottages enough to accommodate the married people who accompanied us, others were built about 100 yards distant. I must now revert to the fate of my comrade bom- bardier who so ruthlessly wasted the stores. A few days after our arrival the captain had us all assembled in the library, and proposed that each man should contribute an equal amount to make good the defi- ciency, alleging that we had all equally partaken of the arrack. No one said anything against this proposal until the sum was mentioned. It being considerable, a grumbling ensued, which ended in some of the old soldiers intimating that he had sold the grog. The I 86 A soldier's life IK INDIA. bombardier was instantly arrested on this charge, and eventually tried by a court martial, and sentenced (in addition to confinement), to be reduced, and placed under stoppages until the whole was made good. The commander-in-chief, however, forgave the latter part of the sentence, on the ground of inexperience. A short residence here verified all the favourable accounts I had previously heard of an out station. Provisions were even better and cheaper than at Bombay. The mutton, in particular, though lean, was the sweetest I ever tasted; but beef was seldom procurable, as the natives, through some religious scruples, were much averse to killing bullocks; in- deed, they looked upon the slaughter of an ox with nearly as much horror as the taking of human life, and instances have been known of natives of a differ- ent caste forfeiting their lives for so offending. How- ever, the want of the beef was of no consequence to us, as the mutton was decidedly preferable; and as some of our company were often out fishing and fowl- ing, our mess table was frequently well supplied with delicacies of this kind. Turtle were also caught in numbers in the river and surrounding tanks, so that turtle soup was no treat there. The life of a soldier in India, in peaceable times, is an exceedingly lazy life, and where the mind does not lead them to enter freely into athletic exercises or manly pursuits, they become effeminate, and when required to take the field, they find even short marches very trying to them. Hence the necessity of encour- aging all kinds of manly sports, of which there are none better than hunting and shooting, as these not only keep the men in a working condition, but im- prove their efficiency as marksmen, and are conducive A soldier's life in INDIA. 87 to good health, if they do not expose themselves too much to the sun. Our men were not only particularly partial to the gun, but they kept up other kinds of manly sports and amusements with great vigour; and the result was, they were excellent shots, besides being hardy and healthy. But this may be attributed, in a great measure, to the goodness of the officer under whom we served, for nothing gave this gentleman greater pleasure than to see his men enjoy- ing themselves, in any shape or form they thought proper, so as they did not injure themselves or others, or destroy public or private property. He took a deep interest in the welfare of his men, and they in return were devotedly attached to him. He seldom had occasion to resort to severe punishment; indeed his proceedings in this respect were often of the most trivial nature, which the following will show. One evening while employed erecting a temporary fort for practice, one of the men was observed to be the worse of liquor. The captain called him, and said, "Gunner B , you are drunk, Sir." "No, Sir," was the reply, " I have certainly had a glass or two, but I am quite fit for my duty." " You are drunk," repeated the captain, " and you are a disgrace to your comrades, and you shall not have the honour of join- ing them in their work. Go away. Sir, and sit down under the shade of that bush." B retired very reluctantly to the place appointed for him behind the bush, where he sat looking very wistfully, first at the captain, and then at his comrades, and ever and anon making earnest appeals to be allowed to work with his comrades, but all to no purpose. At last some of the hopeful boys commenced to pelt him with lumps of turf, and, after receiving several butts about 88 A SOLDIER'S LIFE IX IXDIA. the head, he started up, and ran staggering to the captain, saying, " I must work. Sir, I must work, for my comrades are making a fool of me, Sir; they are pelting me with turf, Sir." But he was again ordered back to the bush. On returning to barracks, the captain gave an order for each man to receive a glass of grog, with the exception of gunner B . On another occasion, and while a detachment of us were on the line of march, one of the men was again observed to be in liquor, when the captain halted, and ordered him to be mounted on the top of one of the baggage camels, and led in front as a spectacle. It was really laughable to hear the earnest entreaties of the fellow to get down; but no, there he was stuck during the whole morning's march, laughed and scofPed at by his comrades. But paltry as these punishments really were, they seemed to have the desired effect. It has often been urged by certain individuals (of course ignorant of military matters), that all commis- sioned officers should be raised from the ranks. Now, I would deprecate this idea in the strongest language imaginable, for I am sanguine that the very life and marrow of the British army depends upon its being commanded by gentlemen. Every good old soldier will bear me out in saying, the greater the gentleman the better the officer. I might here enter into a length- ened detail of the very important and responsible duties imposed upon a commanding officer, were it not my intention to confine myself as much as possible to those moving in the same sphere with myself. There are numerous comfortable situations open in the Company's service for deserving soldiers, and such, too, as suit them better than commissions. The first A soldier's life I-^ INDIA. 89 of these are warrant officers, estimated at about 200, and styled sub-conductors, conductors, and deputy- assistant commissaries ; and all are promoted from the ranks. Their duties are to superintend in ordnance and commissariat stores. They take the name conductorfrom being frequently employed in con- ducting stores from one station to another. The following scale may give the reader some idea of their pay and allowances; and when their wants and neces- saries are taken into account, it will be at once seen that they are as well if not better paid than the lower grades of commissioned officers : — TABLE or PAr PER MONTH, AT TWO SHILLINGS PER RUPEE. ' When within When beyond "Wnyfcni- CifRno-ra 200 milcs of the 200 milcs of the tV arraui; L/rncers. Presidency. Presidency. Deputy Assistant Cornmissaries, £19 6 £27 12 Conductors, 11 10 14 10 SubDo., 7 7 9 12 Lower grades of Commissioned Officers. Lieutenant, 22 8 25 8 Ensign,.... 18 20 A permanentconductor receives three pounds per month extra, and a conductor or sub-conductor, when proceed- ing in charge of stores, draws three pounds for horse allowance, and two pounds for stationery per month. The above is the pay and allowances on the Madras establishment, which may be taken as a fair average. Then follows the non-commissioned staff — a host of staff sergeants employed in various ways, such as barrack sergeants, line sergeants, bazaar sergeants, key sergeants, park and store sergeants, &c., &c. Each and all of these are comfortable situations, and are held apart from any of the duties incident to the sergeant doing duty with his regiment. Then we i2 90 A soldier's life in ixdia. have about 180 native regiments — cavalry, artillery, and infantry — to supply with a European sergeant- major, and a quarter-master sergeant each. In addi- tion, we have a number of men working at their own trades, and receiving good wages, and some employed as clerks in the public offices. The trades most in request are farriers, saddlers, turners, blacksmiths, iron and brass founders, armourers, gunsmiths, painters, engineers, engravers, &c., &c. Watch and clockmakers are also highly remunerated for their work. Again, we have the engineers, or sappers and miners as they are more commonly called, a class of men selected at the depot in England, and instructed there in a knowledge of their duties as overseers of public works. There are no privates amongst them; but they are classed somewhat as follows, and receive the annexed amount of pay monthly : — Sergeant overseer, £12 Do. assistant overseer, 10 10 Do. sub-assistant overseer,., 9 Corporal overseer, 7 10 Do. assistant overseer, 6 Do. sub-assistant overseer, 4 10 However, those who evince extra talent in surveying, &c., frequently receive a much higher rate of pay than the above, to obtain which they must make good use of their time while under instruction at the Honour- able Company's depot in England. For it is too late to think of learning when required to act. The number comprising the Honourable Company's regular army may be estimated at 300,000 ; but if all who bear arms in support of the government were included, another 100,000 of irregular troops might A soldier's life in INDIA. 91 be added to the number. Out of this immense army- there are only about 15,000 Europeans, to whom (deducting the officers) the situations referred to are exckisively open. The reader may observe that he must be a silly fellow who cannot make himself some- thing better than a private soldier in this service; but there are many clever men in the ranks, simply because they are too much addicted to the glass. Sobriety is the great qualification for preferment in India, and it cannot be otherwise; for what dependence can be placed in a man, however good his abilities may be, if he will persist in abusing them ? In addition to the above 15,000 Europeans, there are generally about 20,000 of Her Majesty's troops lent to the East India Company, whose period of service in India is seldom less than twenty years. But I find I am straying from the thread of my narrative, so I must return to Bhooj. When the heat of the day rendered it unpleasant to go abroad, the barrack-room frequently presented the appearance of a work-shop, some being engaged making straw hats, others netting socks and gloves, some making thread buttons (an article much in use here, as they stand the washing better than any other kind), and a number engaged in sewing, an occupa- tion in which some had acquired a proficiency, so far as to be able to make every article of their own dress. These, together with shoemakers, tinkers, &c., formed a variety seldom to be met with in one apartment. Others, again, who had no taste for these pursuits, were constantly inventing new pranks, in the way of causing fun and frolic, some of .which, though laughable, were rather absurd. If they found one of their number intoxicated, and fast asleep, it 92 A soldier's life in INDIA. was not uncommon to lay him out like a corpse, covering him over with a white sheet, and hold a sham wake over him. The jests that then followed as to his good and bad qualities when alive, were truly laughable. But the best of it was, they would ultimately raise up the cot on which he lay, shoulder high, and carry him all round the lines in the form of a funeral procession, while one of their number walked in front, enveloped in his blue cloak, holding a book before him, to represent the parson reading the funeral service. During this proceeding a feigned scuffle would ensue, under the pretence that the corpse had not been properly waked. The bearers would get jostled about until they dropped their bur- den. The noise and confusion at this time would probably awake the sleeper, who would start up, tear off the trappings with which he was adorned, and make the best of his way to the barrack-room, amidst peals of laughter. I might mention numerous pranks of a less offensive nature, but for want of space the above must suffice. The native ideas of improvement, in any shape, are very limited. Indeed, everything would appear to go on now as it did a thousand years ago. Their agri- cultural implements are of the most rude and primi- tive description; but they are blessed with a rich soil, which makes up for their deficiency in this respect. The general crops are produced during the rainy season; but there are invariably a few plots or fields convenient to every village, which produce two or three crops a year by irrigation. These plots are divided into small square beds, with a raised edging, so as to confine the water when once admitted. A well is situated on a slightly elevated spot, where a A soldier's life in INDIA. 93 pair of bullocks are kept going backwards and for- wards, drawing up water with a leathern bag or bucket, so constructed as to empty itself into a trough, from whence the water is directed into channels lead- ing into the plot requiring irrigation. A man follows the stream with a hoe, opens the edging of the first bed, admits a sufficient quantity, then closes up the aperture, and moves on to the next square and sup- plies it in a similar manner, and so on until the operation is completed. The grain is trodden out by oxen; but here the natives depart from Scripture usage, by muzzling "the ox that treadeth out the corn." A beam of wood is fixed on a pivot at one end, at the other extremity of which a pair of bullocks are fastened, and thus they are kept going round in a circle, the grain being strewed among their feet. When trodden out, it is exposed to the wind to separate it from the chafi^, and then thrown up into heaps and covered over with straw, and remains so until finally removed. All this is executed in the open air, as they have nothing in the shape of barns either to clean or store their grain. The wells used for irrigation are invariably shaded by a cluster of trees, with frequently a garden attached, which forms a most cool and desirable retreat for the weary traveller. There he finds himself not only entirely secluded from the sun's rays, but he meets with a supply of beautiful spring water, as it runs along the channels at his very feet, as clear as crystal. Having previously adverted to the pride and haughty bearing of soldiers' wives in India, especially those who are fortunate enough to get up a little, I 94 A soldier's life in INDIA. will now give a striking instance of it. It is the case of a woman who arrived in the country as the wife of a private soldier in one Her Majesty's regiments, so destitute of clothing as to be under the necessity of appearing attired in her husband's white woollen jacket. The husband, being a dissolute character, died shortly after their arrival, the climate, no doubt, being the alleged cause, as usual. The widow, who was rather a good-looking female, evinced early symptoms of an anxiety again to enter the matrimo- nial state, but nothing under the rank of a conductor seemed good enough in her estimation, and one of that rank she actually obtained. On my reaching Bhooj I found the happy couple stationed there; but matters were now greatly changed with madam, she having nothing less than a pony to ride on. The wife of one of our men being sickly, was ordered by the doctor to the sea coast. Her husband preceded her with a hackray (bullock cart), containing their baggage, &c., and she was to follow in a dooley (a kind of palanquin for carrying the sick); but the day turned out to be a holiday with the bearers, so that none could be got to carry her. A friend kindly proffered her the use of his pony. Another obstacle presented itself — we had no side saddle. I posted off to the conductor's wife, to solicit the loan of the one she possessed. On reaching her dwelling I communicated the nature of my message to the hus- band, who turned to his better half and said, " O my dear, here is an artilleryman wanting the use of your side saddle for a poor woman who is going to the sea coast for the benefit of her health;" to which madam responded, " What ! lend my side saddle to a soldier's wife ! no, indeed, I would not lend my side saddle to A soldier's life in INDIA. 95 any soldier's wife." The husband added, in a per- suasive tone, "Oh, my dear, lend it to her, it will do it no more harm than if it -vn ere hanging up in your own room." But madam remained inexorable; so I had to retrace my steps without the saddle, contrast- ing, within my own mind, the change that a few short years had made upon this little-minded woman. Amongst certain qualifications she had acquired was that of handling the gun ; indeed, it was no unfrequent occurrence for her to make one in a pigeon-shooting match. Her husband was allowed a man from the barracks to act as clerk for him. He on one occasion accompanied madam and her husband on a shooting excursion; and after they had succeeded in killing some ducks upon a tank, she was requested to walk on a few paces until the clerk stripped for the purpose of fetching them out of the water. He, on getting beyond his depth, became entangled with weeds, and showed evident symptoms of drowning. The con- ductor urged some natives, whom he had brought with him for the purpose of beating the bushes to raise the game, to go in to the man's aid, but they declined, on the plea of not being able to swim. In this emer- gency, the conductor rushed in to his assistance, but, melancholy to relate, they both ultimately perished. During their struggle in the water an alarm was raised, which brought back the wife, who courageously rushed to her husband's rescue, and was actually up to her middle in water, but the natives succeeded in dragging her back, or she would undoubtedly have shared the same fate. Notice of this melancholy event was carried with all speed to the adjacent village; the inhabitants of which, to do them justice, lost no time in having the bodies taken out of the water, and 96 A soldier's life in INDIA. conveyed into camp in a hackray. I would here caution every individual against venturing into any of these tanks or pieces of water, for the most expert swimmer must lose his life if once he gets amongst the long weeds. The bereaved widow's feelings at this time may be better conceived than described. However, in due time she married again, condescend- ing, on this occasion, to come down a step, for she wedded a sergeant. In conversing with some of the old inhabitants, I learned that previous to the British taking the reins of power into their own hands, both life and property were very insecure. Indeed, it was a work of time, even with the combined efforts of the native authorities, to accomplish their object in putting a stop to the depre- dations of a class of native marauders who infested this part of India, living solely on plunder. In put- ting an end to their nefarious proceedings, it was necessary to resort to very severe measures. Those who fell into the hands of the Rao (native prince) met v^ith little mercy. A very large gun was stationed outside the walls of the town, to the muzzle of which criminals were tied, and blown to atoms. Motives of curiosity induced me, on one occasion, to witness this shocking spectacle, but what astonished me most of all was the cool and careless manner in which these people meet death. Indeed, tbey appeared quite unconscious of their wretched fate. One criminal, in particular, after all was ready for his being tied up to the gun, kept smoking at a pipe as if he was deter- mined to make the most of it, knowing that it was the last he would ever get. When called upon to be quick, he replied, "Very good, Sir, I am coming," and in another moment he was blown into eternitvl A soldier's life in INDIA. 97 For offences, sucli as wives proving unfaithful to their husbands, they are frequently punished by hav- ing the head shaved, and a string of old shoes slung round the neck, and then placed upon an ass, with their face towards the tail, and torn -tomed (drummed) out of the town. The hill fort here is rather an extraordinary con- struction, being built along the top of a narrow irregular hill, about half a mile in length. One end, which overlooks our barracks, is terminated by a large tower, and at the other extremity the walls descend down to the low ground, and enclose some buildings which are occupied by the British as an arsenal for military stores. The town of Bhooj is situated within a mile of this fort, from whence it presents a picturesque appearance, being studded throughout with trees, and the Rao's palace, a large white building, towering above the surround- ing scenery. Bhooj, like Maundiavie, is finely walled, and offers many strange sights to the eye of an European. Numbers of sacred bulls roam about the streets unmolested, stealing their food wherever they can get it. The natives drive them away from the rice at their open shops, but they will not hurt them. Some of these animals are much disabled from the result of accident. It is no- thing uncommon to see them walking on three legs; one in particular, which I often took notice of, actually walked on its two fore feet, dragging its hind quarters along the ground, which were perfectly powerless, from the back being broken, or otherwise severely injured. Yet the natives will do nothing in the way of having these animals removed. A devotee is sometimes seen about the streets K 98 A soldier's life m india. in a state of nudity, witli a chain and heavy stone attached to his person; and others may he seen per- forming cruel and disgusting acts of mortification on their bodies, by cutting and maiming themselves, for the purpose of obtaining alms, asserting that the deceased relatives of those who refuse to contribute suffer the pain. The acts of suffering and mortifica- tion that these people sometimes endure in the way of penance is perfectly incredible, and an account of them w^ould be by no means pleasing to the intelligent reader. Strangers generally visit the Rao's palace for the purpose of seeing his splendid menagerie of elephants, lions, tigers, &c., of the first order. He has also a splendid collection of the prettiest horses I ever be- held. I was induced, on one occasion, to visit the gaol, which is an open court, surrounded by high walls, around the inside of which sheds are ranged for the purpose of affording shelter to the inmates. I was here struck with the appearance of a remarkably fine-looking man, who was heavily chained. On questioning him as to the nature of his crime, he informed me that it was for killing a woman. On my manifesting surprise at such a person as he appeared to be being guilty of so horrible a crime, he explained to me that he had cohabited wdth her, and that she was of an inferior caste to himself. She had held out threats of ac- quainting his caste with the circumstances, and he, to prevent her doing so, murdered her. He added, that he might just as well lose his life as lose his caste. There is a large pool of water outside the walls, called the Rao's tank, which for size at the close of the rainy season resembles a branch of the sea. It A soldier's life in INDIA. 99 is abundantly stored with both fish and fowl, which are considered as sacred, or royal property, and con- sequently allowed to live unmolested. Indeed, it was looked upon as a serious oifence to fish or shoot on its waters; yet this did not deter seme of our keen fishers from paying it a visit, under cloud of night, and bringing home a fine haul. By this time I had become senior bombardier of my company, and, as one of our corporals was appointed sergeant-major to a native cavalry regiment, I was promoted to the vacancy. Towards the close of the year 1 832, a force of 5000 men were ordered to take the field, and proceed into the then disturbed province of Nuggur Parker. A detachment of our men, with two guns, were included in this number. Here an eager contention ensued; all wanted to go, and only forty-two could be taken, but the captain (or Dad, as he was familiarly called), settled the dispute by selecting the men himself, and I was one of them. The morning of our departure at length arrived, and we left for our destination amid the shrieks and cries of some of the men's wives on parting with their husbands, who were doubtless of opinion that many of us would never return, as it was currently reported that we had a hazardous task before us. However, we set out in high spirits, accompanied by a little vocal music, as the men kept singing in chorus as we marched merrily along. The morning's march brought us to a village with which we were tolerably well ac- quainted, as it contained a tank which we were in the habit of visiting in our fishing excursions. Other nine marches brought us to a village on the borders of the Runn, where we halted for a few days, 100 A soldier's life in INDIA. awaiting instructions to join the main body of the army. Nothing interesting occurred during our route to tliis place, except that we had some excellent shooting, duck and other game being in great abim- dance, and, as we always succeeded in reaching our ground by eight o'clock in the morning, the distance never being more than from nine to twelve miles, we had ample time to devote to that purpose. We were here joined by some native cavalry and infantry, and as we brought with us a detachment of the Rao's native troops, accompanied by two elephants, we began to form something like an imposing force. As it was reported that the enemy would dispute with us the crossing of the Runn, we made every preparation to give him a warm reception. This report kept us constantly on the alert for a few days, but, it having somewhat subsided, we retired to bed one night as usual, when an incident occurred which caused no little excitement at the time, and, subsequently, a great deal of mirth. About midnight we were alarmed by the dreadful screams of a man, which led to the belief that the enemy was in camp, spearing the men through the tents. We started up, seized our arms and accoutrements, and rushed out of our tents, half naked as we were, not one of us with a jacket on, and many without either cap or shoes, except a few with white night-caps. But we were instantly equipped in our accoutrements, and ready to fight in truly light-marching order. One individual, who, by some means or other, had lost his shirt, actually appeared in nothing but his trousers, with his belt across his bare shoulders, as complete as if he had been dressed for parade. Another person, thinking that the tents were on fire, shouldered all he possessed A soldier's life Jjf ;iN:oii4: • '■.[[:['.[ IQl and ran off, for which he got well laughed at. At this juncture the captain was observed in his in- expressibles, making his way in the direction from whence the noise proceeded, when a dozen voices shouted out, "O, there is Dad unprotected!" and away they scampered, fixing bayonets as they went along, and rallied round him, where they were soon met by the nague (corporal) of the sepoy guard, conveying the dreadful intelligence that one of his number had been seized with an attack, not of the enemy, but of nightmare, and that when he got restored to his speech he had shouted out in the manner described. I may add that I was the only one wounded in the affray, for, when rushing out of the tent, one of the men stumbled, and the butt of his piece came in collision with my forehead, which caused me to dis- play a pair of very suspicious-looking black eyes. At last an order arrived for us to cross the Runn. But before proceeding any farther, it may be neces- sary to explain what this Runn really is. Well, then, it is simply an extensive level tract of country, covered with salt; extending from the River Indus to the Gulf of Cutch. At the place where we were about to cross, it may be between twenty-five and thirty miles broad. Everything was now got in readiness. Camels were provided for us to ride on, at the rate of two men upon each, and the guns were dismounted and placed upon sledges, to be dragged by bullocks, assisted by numerous coolies who flocked to our aid. The camels were brought down, to prove whether or not they would carry Europeans, as it is really astonishing to see how almost every animal in India will start at the sight of a white face, until they become familiarised. However, they proved quiet k2 1^2 A SOLEIEU'S LIFE IN INDIA. and tractable, with the exception of a few; and with these we had some rare sport, as the riders were na sooner on their backs than they were left sprawling on the ground, amidst peals of laughter from the by- standers. Yet there was no lack of courage in mounting again, and after several trials they became somewhat quiet. We set out one evening between four and five o'clock, and after marching a short distance, we came in full view of the Runn, presenting, to all appearance, an arm of the sea; indeed, we felt confident that we saw the waves breaking on tha beach; but the sun soon disappeared, and with it this delusion, and then the place appeared to our view in its true colours, resembling a level district, covered with snow, as far as the eye could reach. As soon as we entered on our beautiful white carpet, our feet began to pene- trate through the salt into mud. Here we halted, and being ordered to mount our camels, we enjoyed another hearty laugh at some of our comrades being again pitched ofi^, and left to wallow in the briny mire. However, there was nothing for it but mount again, and we ultimately moved forward in rather a stately and dignified manner, forming a long train, as camels invariably do, the head of the one being tied to the tail of the other, and the front one led by the driver; by this means one man is enabled to conduct twenty or thirty camels. The guns by this time were considerably in advance of us, but they were soon brought to a stand still, from the great quantity of salt and mud that collected in front of the sledges. There was now no alternative but to remount them on their carriages. This the natives very kindly made an effort to effect, but from want of skill in these A soldier's life in INDIA. 103 matters, they rolled the guns off the sledges into the mire, where they lay completely concealed; and on our reaching them we found that we were required to accomplish that which the natives had failed to effect. Our position at this time was by no means enviable. On descending from our lofty steeds we stood up to the knees in mud; and the cattle, who seemed not to admire their position any more than ourselves, kept plunging and splashing, till we were bespattered all over. However, it was the captain's wish that we should mount the guns, and that was enough for us. In an instant brawny arms were bared up to the elbows, and in a few seconds the guns were pitched on the sledges, and thence on to their carriages, in which all our available force was applied; we again mounted our camels, and the whole moved steadily forward. At last we reached firm footing, where we resigned our camels to some sepoys who had plodded through on foot, and then set out at a brisk pace, with the salt crimping under our feet like snow har- dened by frost. After continuing our march in this manner for twelve or fourteen miles, we again came to soft footing, where we halted, and each man was served out with an allowance of grog and a biscuit. We again mounted the camels, and pressed forward until we reached the opposite bank. This we effected just as day was beginning to dawn. I may here add that I examined the salt at various places, and found it to average about an inch in thickness, and to be as fine as the finest table salt I ever saw, and equally fit for table use. On reaching the bank we threw ourselves down on the green sward, with our worthy captain in the 104 A soldier's life in INDIA. centre of us, to await daylight, that we might the better be enabled to select a proper place to pitch our camp. Here some of the drouthy boys, who were not aware of the captain's proximity, began to say, " Let us go to old Dad, and ask him for a dram." "Yes," observed one, "I have seen him more free with his grog when it was not so much required." " Yes," continued another, " if he does not choose to give us an extra dram, why he can order us our own morning's allowance." This kind of talk was kept up for some time, and I lay laughing in my sleeve, and wondering what the captain would think of it; when he called out to the sergeant-major to give each man an extra dram. Here the boys started, and ap- peared not at all pleased with themselves on discover- ing that the captain was within hearing of all they had said. We now moved on for a few miles, and pitched our tents in the vicinity of a small village solely inhabited by a class of people of neither sex, commonly called Hermaphrodites, who appeared to be outcasts from society. These people entered freely amongst us, and supplied us with milk, &c.; but on removing to a larger village, quite adjacent, for a better supply of water, the inhabitants ran from their homes on our approach, and left the village totally deserted. Our captain ordered sentries to be posted over the village, to prevent any damage being done to it; and he also ordered horsemen out after the natives, to induce them to come back, but without effect. A few more marches brought us into conjunction with the main army, encamped on a beautiful and extensive plain. Here I had the good fortune to meet with one of my former companions while in A soldier's life in INDIA. 105 Fort George barracks, but who was now a clerk in the commissariat department. He evinced much pleasure at seeing me, and insisted that I should come down to his tent that evening, and sup with him, to which I readily assented. On calling, 1 found him very comfortable, with a tent to himself, and a pony to ride on, &c. To be brief, I passed a very pleasant evening with my friend, and retired to my own tent about midnight, highly pleased with the kind manner in which I had been entertained. But I soon discovered that a very heavy dew had been falling, as I felt my clothes quite damp, and in place of taking the precaution to change them, I lay down just as I was, and awoke in the morning very ill. I rose and made the best of my way to the hospital tent, where I was at once admitted as a patient, and subsequently learned that I was afflicted with jungle fever (one of the worst fevers in India), brought on, no doubt, by exposing myself to the dew, ac- celerated, perhaps, by indulging too freely on the night in question. However, be that as it may, I soon became so very bad that little hopes were enter- tained of my recovery; indeed, under ordinary treat- ment, I believe I should not have recovered. But had the doctor's own life depended upon mine he could not have done more for me. After being about five days in hospital, I was blessed with a change for the better, and began to recover almost as rapidly as I had been taken ill. I now felt all anxiety that we should not break ground until I became sufficiently recovered to be able to march, as I had a bitter aversion to ride in a dooley, having repeatedly heard the old campaigners chaffing their more unfortunate comrades for so 106 A soldier's life in INDIA. doing, saying, " You cost the Government a precious sum on the march, for you wore the bottoms out of all the dooleys;" "You're the first in the family who ever had four black stallions to carry you;" "You're one of Jack Company's dear bargains," &c.; so that I was determined, if possible, not to ride in a dooley. However, I was doomed so to ride; for before I was able to walk the length of the tent, the whole force set out to cross about twenty miles of a desert. As I slept in one of these dooleys, I was awakened about two o'clock in the morning by the bearers hoisting me shoulder high; and had it not been that I felt uneasy at the idea of being carried by my fellow creatures, increased through a dread of being ridi- culed about it, I should have enjoyed my ride very much. After proceeding along, at their peculiar jog- trot, for seven or eight miles, the bearers stopped, and a chattering and talking ensued, which ended in the conviction that they had set out in the wrong direction, so that they had no alternative but to re- trace their steps, and find out the proper road as best they could. I now felt doubtful whether it was pos- sible that they could carry me to camp, so I resolved to get out and walk betimes, as much as my strength would permit, and we seemed to be getting on pretty well: but I soon became so exhausted that 1 was little able to leave the dooley, and the bearers, through fatigue, threw it down, declaring that they were not able to carry me any farther. The day had set in extremely hot, and they were almost in a state of desperation for want of water, of which not a drop was to be found. After reflecting for some time, I resolved to set out and make a desperate effort to reach the camp, so I braced every nerve, and took the road; A soldier's life in INDIA. 107 but ere I had traversed a mile I began to reel to and fro like a drunken man, my thirst became intense, and I threw myself down under the shade of a tree, perfectly exhausted. Here I lay for some time, in a state of partial unconsciousness, but at last I awoke to a full sense of my position. It now appeared CAddent to me that I had strayed off the direct road, as there was no trace of an army having passed that way, and had I even been able to march, I could not, for the life in me, form the slightest idea of the direction I should take, so that I saw nothing before me but to perish in the jungle, and, strange to say, I became quite reconciled to my fate. My thirst had by this time abated, and I felt free from pain. I lay on my back and gazed on the beauties of an eastern sky, which afforded me endless food for devotional reflection. There was a sweet odour arising from the wild vegetation, which I inhaled with a degree of pleasure, under the circumstances, almost incredi- ble. Thus I lay, in deep meditation, my mind being enveloped in a strain of heavenly ideas, with all around me as silent as the grave, save the warbling of some solitary bird. Towards evening I was startled by a rustling amongst the herbage, and on straining my eyes in eager expectation of meeting some friendly succour, with horror I beheld a large tiger within a few yards of where I lay. Happily he seemed not to observe me, as he quickly disappeared in a thick part of the jungle, much to my gratification. Shortly after this I was again startled by a voice saying "panny, sahib" (water. Sir), and on looking up I was surprised to find a native standing over me, with a leathern bag containing water. 1 soon learned from him that he came from the camp, and was ready 108 A soldier's life in INDIA. to conduct me thither. After several attempts I succeeded in getting upon my feet, and with the assistance of this kind native I reached the camp, much to the gratification of my poor dooley bearers, vrho were in long before me, and who anticipated nothing short of a severe flogging for deserting me in the jungle, or rather for allowing me to desert them. After partaking of some refreshment I fell into a sound sleep, from which I did not awake until I was again hoisted ofP by my bearers, who, it is needless to say, took good care on this occasion to keep in the wake of the troops. A few days after this I got discharged from the hospital, leaving behind me only one solitary and desponding individual (which says much for the health of our detachment), whose case, being of a peculiar nature, I will reserve for another page. After continuing our march for ten days, during which nothing of any particular interest took place, we came to a large, clean, and well-arranged village, at the entrance of which stood a hideous-looking image for worship, besmeared all over with oil and red dust. Here we were placed under ordei*s to rest for a day; and as we had not had a day's halt for some time, we resolved to make the most of it. So next morning, immediately after breakfast, a select party of us set out in search of game; but while in the height of our glory, we were alarmed by the sounding of trumpets, which caused us to make a hasty retreat into camp. We found that we were just in time to join our comrades in another march. We set out about one o'clock, and continued our march until sunset, when we halted, but were ordered A soldier's life in INDIA. 10? not to pitch our tents, as we would only be allowed to rest for an hour or two. The cooks set to work to prepare us a mess of pilaw. Here I was not a little surprised at seeing our worthy captain bearing along a billet of wood for the cook's fire. The example seemed to have a magical effect, for poor Babberjee (cook), who would probably have been left to forage for himself, was instantly overstocked with wood. After finishing our repast, we again started to cross a desert of about twenty-five miles in breadth, which, in consequence of the badness of the roads, together with the exhausted state of our cattle, we did not accomplish until two o'clock the following day, pitch- ing our tents opposite the town of Bellmere, where the enemy were in force ready to receive us. We were very much fatigued, owing to being so long upon the road, but the captain ordered each man a double allowance of grog, which seemed to infuse new life into us, as many of the men were seen scampering about as though they had not marched a mile. Strong pickets were posted around the camp, so that we rested unmolested during that night, but next morning we were ordered to prepare for action. The general gave the enemy the opportunity of surrender- ing under certain conditions, but they resolutely refused to accede to his terms. He gave them time to consider, but they still held out. The army then advanced, and the sepoys were ordered to storm the town, which they did in noble style, as may be inferred from the fact that the enemy was completely subdued, and the whole place in our possession, in the short space of half an hour. Our detachment was then marched back to the tents and dismissed, and the remaining proceedings L 110 A soldier's life in INDIA, of the day were left to the native troops. These con- sisted principally of capturing and guarding prisoners; and, as I was now at liberty, I went about taking notes. As the prisoners were captured they were brought out and arranged in rows on the plain in front of the town, with their arms tied behind them, and made fast to each other. The sepoys seemed to exercise a degree of severity, if not even cruelty, over them, which appeared to me to be quite uncalled for — striking them with the butt of their muskets whenever they attempted to move out of the squatted position in w^hich they were kept, seated on the plain. A prisoner, who was fondly caressing a child, at- tracted my particular attention. A sepoy was ordered to march him back to the town in order to give the child over to its mother, and, feeling inte- rested for the safety of the infant, I accompanied them. On entering the tow^n we were met by a young and prepossessing female in a state of frenzy and despair, whose distracted condition led me to conclude that she was the wife of the prisoner. She eagerly seized the child in her arms and was like to destroy it from the warmth of her affection, while the little infant, unconscious of the anguish that burned in its mothers breast, smiled and cried alternately. An aged woman also made her appearance, whom I took to be the prisoner's mother. The poor creature bowed herself to the ground, lifted the prisoner's foot, and put it upon her head (a mark of great esteem). Here the captive's heart seemed to fail him, and he asked for water, but the sepoy kept hurrying him along, and w^ould not allow him time to receive it. The young female threw herself upon the ground, and clung to the prisoner's feet. The scene at this A soldier's life in INDIA. Ill time was painful in the extreme, and produced within me feelings of the deepest sympathy. Indeed, I felt as if I could have sacrificed my own life in defence of the young woman and her helpless infant. However, the prisoner was ultimately carried off, and the females disappeared amongst others, and I was left to contemplate the misfortunes of war, and to say, happy must be the time when the " lion and lamb lie down together." However, injustice to the Indian Govern- ment, it is but right to say that they resort to every diplomatic measure ere they have recourse to arms. Everything here fell into our hands as prize pro- perty; and a number of our camp followers, who had succeeded in getting into the town, were bent upon helping themselves to anything portable that they could possibly lay their hands upon; and, as they were caught, they were handed over to the tender mercies of the provost, who, with little ceremony, served them out with a few dozens each. The flogging was kept up without intermission for some time, five or six criminals constantly waiting their turn. While look- ing on with amazement at this wholesale scourging establishment, I was struck at seeing our milk-woman and her husband brought in. This female was par- ticularly good looking, and, from her affable and agreeable manner, was a great favourite with our men. Her husband was soon put through his punishment, and some of the native officials actually began to bare her back; but, no, happily for her, she had British soldiers to deal with, whose gallantry admits of nothing so unmanly as woman-flogging. But her husband was not allowed to escape without receiving an extra dozen on her account, for which favour con- ferred she expressed herself as being much obliged, 112 A soldier's life m ixdia. and they both walked off, he shrugging his shoulders, and she, I have little doubt, laughing in her sleeve, as she seemed to have too many admirers to have much regard for her husband. The town of Bellmere is situated on the face of a hill, crowned by a fort. It contains some very fine mosques or temples, a few of which are falling into decay. We remained in camp opposite the town for upwards of a month, during which we contrived to enjoy ourselves pretty well. Cattle which had lost their keepers were running about in scores, so when we wanted a little extra beef we had only to catch a young bullock, one of our number acting as butcher. This suited me to a nicety, as the only evil effects my recent fever had left was an enormous appetite, and the result was, that I soon became too corpulent for my clothes. A number of wealthy natives, who followed the camp, were ready to buy up anything in the shape of plunder; and when all else failed, they began to deal in cattle, at the rate of three or four rupees each. But the prize agent pounced upon these people at a time when they least thought of it, and deprived them of their illegally acquired herds. The natives had the advantage of our men in bullock catching, as they run like deers at the very sight of a white face. However, one of o'ur number, who was remarkably swift of foot, resolved to try his hand by running them down, and in this manner he soon succeeded in capturing one, which he made fast in front of the tents, and started off in pursuit of another. On obtaining hold of its tail, he kept wend- ing it up towards the tents, when it took an abrupt turn, and bounced directly through the captain's A soldier's life in INDIA. 113 marquee, overturning everything that came in its way, he holding on by the tail, and hopping over the demolished furniture; but on seeing the extent of the mischief, he relinquished his hold, and ran off in another direction, to avoid the captain, who was soon seen approaching our tents, calling out for the delinquent, who of course was nowhere to be found. On seeing the bullock which was already made fast, he inquired to whom it belonged, and on being informed, said, " The d I's in the fellow, he has just now driven one direct through my marquee! Set it loose; it is a disgrace to Europeans to indulge iri such sports ! " Another individual, a son of the Emerald Isle, was seen coming along with a young calf on his shoulders. Its dam followed at a distance, eyeing him very suspiciously, but at last came furiously on, and pitched him headlong into a prickly-pear bush, with his burden on the top of him, from whence he was extricated with some difficulty, not, however, before he was pricked all over like an old pin-cushion. On getting out, he commenced an abusive harangue upon his comrades, for not keeping back the enraged ani- mal, observing, that in Derry, where he came from, when they wanted the cow to follow them they usually carried the calf; but he neglected to inform us whether it was usually attended with similar results. I may add that he was kept in amusement for some time extracting the prickles, for a bush of this descrip- tion is a most formidable enemy to come in contact with. For want of better employment — as we were here deprived of the many resources for useful amusement which are at all times available in l2 114 A soldier's life in INDIA. barracks, and as is said, with truth, "If you do not employ soldiers the d — 1 will," — a few of our men commenced a system of gambling. However, this nefarious practice was soon detected, and every card they possessed committed to the flames. Their inventive faculties were now put to the test, and, as necessity is ever the mother of invention, they succeeded in getting up a new game, which they styled " catch the fly," and which was played thus. They arranged themselves in a circle in the centre of the tent, each individual placing before him a rupee, and the owner of the coin on which a fly settled first, claimed the whole. This game is not so tedious as some may suppose, particularly in a place where flies are somewhat plentiful. A very singular event occurred with me at this place, which, although I am endeavouring to abridge my original manuscript as much as possible, I cannot think of passing over. I had always looked upon the natives as a quiet inofl^ensive people, and I had not yet learned to view them in any other light in this quarter. Having one day obtained a few ball cartridges, I set out to a distance from camp, armed with a brace of horse pistols, to indulge in a little ball practice. After firing a shot or two, three natives came out from amongst the hills and stood beside me. At last one of them asked me if I would allow him to have a shot, to which I readily assented; but, while loading the pistol for him, an idea of suspicion crossed me, and I dexterously avoided putting in the ball. On hand- ing him the pistol ready cocked, he seemed at first to take an aim at my temporary target, when all of a sudden he wheeled about and discharged the pistol at A soldier's life in INDIA. 115 my breast. In an instant I raised the other pistol, which I at the time held in my hand, and dealt him a tremendous blow, which felled him to the ground; upon which his two companions drew their creases and made an attempt to rush upon me, but I levelled the pistol, and declared that I would shoot the first who dared to do so. My pistol was not loaded, but, for- tunately for me, of this they were not aware. They drew back a few paces, and I advanced and snatched up the other pistol which lay beside the prostrate man, and ran a cartridge into it as quickly as possible. But, as they seemed to be deterred from making any further attempt upon me, I hastily retreated into camp, resolving to be more cautious in straying so far from the camp in future. However, the above incident must not lead the reader to suppose that it is dangerous to stray abroad in India, for although it may be so to a certain extent at such a place as Bellmere, or in any newly annexed territory, it is certainly quite the reverse in the pro- vinces governed by the British for a series of years ; and, again, I should say that it is more safe to travel in our old settlements there by night or by day than in England itself. Even the accounts given of the Thugs are greatly exaggerated, at least so far as Europeans are concerned, for it is rare, indeed, that an attack is made upon them ; but it is not uncommon for natives to fall victims to their atrocious deeds. Strangling is their mode of taking life, it being against their caste to shed a drop of human blood, for, be it understood, the Thugs are a peculiar caste of themselves. A dread of the Honourable Company's government is the only cause that can be assigned for them not attacking Europeans. 116 A soldier's life in INDIA. I must now take my leave of Bellmere, and proceed with an account of our march back to our old quar- ters at Bhooj, which I will endeavour to do in as few words as possible. On reaching the village before mentioned, contain- ing the huge image, the natives came in a body to our captain, and expressed their gratitude at being placed under British protection. Leaving them we marched along very agreeably. Having now nothing to hurry us, we rested every fourth day; and as we took a different route from that by which we came, we passed through a tract of country abounding in cattle, the principal traffic being in ghee (clarified butter). The numerous herds of cattle appeared to be somewhat alarmed at our passing visit, as they used to come down upon us of a morning like a charge of cavalry; but on approaching within a few paces, they would make a dead halt, stare at us for a few seconds, then wheel about, and retreat at full speed, with tails erect. Deer and wild hogs are very plentiful, and the villages are adorned with beautiful peacocks, more abundant than farm-yard fowls. One morning, while on the line of march, three hogs made their appearance on the top of a hill, seemingly at a loss which direction to take, being confused by the number of camp followers that were passing on each side of the hill. At last they came direct down upon us. We fixed bayonets, and suc- ceeded in killing one of them, but the other two made their escape. Pork of this description, however, was no treat to us, as it was not uncommon for the officers to send us a hog, much to the annoyance of an indi- vidual who had been a Jew previous to enlistment, and still retained enough of their principles to abhor A soldier's life in INDIA. 117 pork ; so that when any portion of a hog was to be prepared for dinner, he was sure to watch the cooks pretty closely, to see that none of it was brought into contact with his mutton. On one of these occasions, his dinner being placed at his berth while he was absent receiving his dinner dram, one of our hope- ful youths removed the mutton off his plate and sub- stituted an equal proportion of hog's flesh, which, being very lean, is more like mutton than fed pork. The Jew soon returned, and, with appetite sharpened by the effects of the grog, commenced de- vouring the contents of his plate with apparently great relish, amidst, however, considerable tittering and laughing. Just as he had finished the last morsel, a roar of laughter ensued, and several voices called out, "The Jew has lost caste!" when he in- stantly sprung to his feet, and became almost frantic vdth rage; but finding there was no redress for him, he swallowed the affront as he had done the pork. We took in on our route a village held sacred by the Hindoos, which contained, as may be supposed, many splendid temples, the principal of which I went along with a friend to visit; but we were not allowed to enter, unless on condition of taking off our boots. It contained a most gorgeously decorated image, profusely adorned with trinkets, besides some jewels of very great value. We were here nearly getting into a very serious scrape, through my comrade, who chewed tobacco, having inadvertently ejected a spittle on the floor, on which the whole natives present set up a fearful yell, and looked daggers at us. But my friend, seeing the result of his imprudence, hastily wiped it up with his handkerchief, which seemed to appease them a little, and we then made our exit. 118 A soldier's life in INDIA. All our Hindoo camp followers attended here to receive some brand, or distinctive mark, in token of having visited this holy village. The operation was performed by an old woman, who stood upon an open space in the centre of the village, having a fire before her, at which she heated the instrument. The person to be operated upon stooped down, placing his hands upon the ground; the instrument was then quickly applied to both arms, leaving an impression about the size of a halfpenny. I was here somewhat amused with a little boy, who, on receiving the brand on one arm, took to his heels and set off at full speed, evi- dently thinking he had got enough of it. At last we arrived at Bhooj, all in excellent health and spirits, with only one exception, viz., the same individual whom I left behind me in the hospital tent on my recovery from the jungle fever. This indi- vidual was largely endowed with the greatest blessings that fall to the lot of man in this life, namely, health and strength. The latter quality he possessed to an extraordinary degree; but how he made use of it will be seen in the sequel. He was always boasting, and displaying feats of strength, although I may say we had none to compete with him, all admitting that he was the strongest man in the company; yet this grant- ing him the supremacy did not seem to allay his desire for fame in that alone in which he was able to excel. None were more overjoyed than he when w^e received the order to take the field, thinking, no doubt, that he would now have an opportunity of showing off his superior physical powers. But what was the result? The first morning's march proved that he was not able to keep pace with his comrades, and was consequently left a distance behind. He struggled hard, however, A soldier's life in INDIA. 119 for two or three mornings to do his duty like another man, but was most reluctantly compelled to give in, and was placed on the sick list. Nothing could have been more galling to this individual's feelings than to be thus impeded in the performance of his duty, as it was not only his heart's desire to do his duty, but to excel in it. But no, with all his boasted strength, he was compelled to ride in a dooley. Had he been afflicted with sickness such as men are heir to — the strong as well as the weak — the case would have been widely different; but although his case baffled the skill of the medical officer for a time, it was ultimately discovered to be the fruits of his own imprudence. Whilst we were in the act of preparing to cross the Runn, the captain observed him looking sorrowfully out of the hospital tent, when he accosted him thus : *' Well, C , how am I to get you across this place? I think the best thing that can be done with you is to send you back to Bhooj. I will provide you with the necessary conveyance, and you will set out to-morrow morning. You will there receive the best medical at- tendance, and may soon recover your wonted health and strength." To which he replied — " Sir, if you send me back, I will throw myself into a tank and drown myself." On the captain remonstrating with him, and demanding his reason for entertaining such an absurd idea, he said, with the tear in his eye, " Sir, if I was to go back, my comrades would make a fool of me." An officer who was standing by interceded for him, and intimated that he had an empty gig go- ing across, in which he could ride, and this settled the matter. C returned to his duty shortly before we reached Bellmere, and stuck to it, although, ap- parently, with great pain to himself, until our return 120 A soldier's life m india. to Bhooj, where he had just time to have a day's spree with some of his comrades, when he was taken very ill — sent to hospital, stretched himself on a couch and died. A post mortem examination proved that severe sprains, from over exertion in displaying his feats of strength, was the cause of his illness and death, accel- erated, no doubt, by the liquor he had taken. Should the foregoing save a single individual from a similar fate, I will consider myself amply rewarded for my trouble. It is preposterous, nay, disgusting, to hear young men, daily and hourly, boasting of their strength, and making bets as to who can lift the greater weight ; and then to be seen straining every nerve to gratify a paltry feeling of vanity. This evil, however, seems to exist more out of the army than in it. Surely " the Giver of all good " never created one man stronger than another to have his strength thus fearlessly and recklessly wasted. Yet it is necessary that soldiers especially should enter freely into manly games, hav- ing not labour enough to strengthen the muscles; but lifting a dead weight is no exercise. Pitching the stone, throwing the hammer, or playing at long ball, hand-ball, or cricket, are conducive to health and strength. Jumping, I should say, is not recommend- able, as it is apt to produce varicose veins in the legs, a defect ruinous to the soldier, as it renders him unfit for marching. We were received with the greatest delight by our comrades in barracks, who got up a splendid supper to greet our arrival. But our short campaign, which did not exceed five months, seemed to have created within us a restless disposition; for although we enjoyed the barrack life very well for a time, we soon became all anxiety to be again in the field. However, this feel- A soldier's life m india. 121 ing was somewhat allayed by two spirited young officers joining us at this time, who succeeded in get- ting up a theatrical entertainment. They were both proficient painters, and kindly executed the scenery with their own hand; scenery, too, that would have been no discredit to a London minor theatre. This undertaking was warmly patronised by the officers in camp, who contributed so largely towards it, that it was found unnecessary to make any charge for admit- tance. At the commencement, the performers were composed of our men only, but, subsequently, a few of the officers figured in some of the leading cha- racters. The currency of this province consists of cowries, half cowries, and pice. The first is a little more than sixpence in value. The number of pice usually given for it varies from twenty to twenty -four. This money seemed to me to be more profitable than the Bombay currency of rupees, annas, and pice. In the month of December, 1833, we were placed under orders to proceed to Ahmednuggur, via Bombay. This change would have been received with pleasure, but our officers were not to accompany us ; an ar- rangement which, I believe, was equally disagreeable to all parties. Our worthy captain was indisposed at the time, but as he wished to see us before we left, he had us paraded at his own quarters, where we re- ceived .a few words in the way of good advice. The two young officers before mentioned accompanied us to Maundiavie, and there gave over their charge to a strange officer; but they did not leave us until they saw us safely embarked on board of four pattamars, which were in readiness to convey us to Bombay ; and on our moving out to sea, they took off their hats and M 122 A soldier's life in INDIA. called out, " Good bye, lads," to which we responded with three times three for our worthy captain, and three hearty cheers, and an extra one, for the young officers, who stood on the shore waving their hats until we were nearly out of sight. The charge of rations, &c., devolved upon me, which I contrived to manage in a manner wddely different to what my comrade had done on a former occasion. The wind continued stiff and favourable, so that our craft resembled something like a boat race the whole way. We reached the harbour of Bombay on the morning of the fourth day, where we remained on board our respective pattamars for a few days, awaiting orders. One night, the men being all fast asleep, with the exception of three, besides myself, the beauty of the bay, with the moon shining forth upon it with all her splendour, tempted us to make use of our small boat to have a sail upon its glossy surface. We were fiirnished with two old paddles, or oars, which served our purpose well enough, as long as we kept going along >vith the tide; but, on endeavouring to return, more strength was required to be put to the oars. One of them, in the hands of a great brawny Irishman, who was working by the rule of main strength and stupidity, snapped in the centre, thus leaving us with only one paddle, and drifting out to sea at the rate of three or four miles an hour. A short time served to carry us beyond the shipping, when one of our number jocosely remarked that we were off to Europe now in earnest. Another replied, " But where are our rations." I observed that this was certainly no time 'for jesting, and proposed that we should shout with all our might, which might bring some friendly boat to our rescue; so we commenced doing so voci- A soldier's life in INDIA. 123 ferously, but to no purpose, echo being the only re- sponse. At last we came in sight of a native craft lying at anchor, towards which we were fast approach- ing, and, with the aid of our remaining oar, I suc- ceeded in bringing to under the vessel's bow; but, to my consternation, there was nothing here by which I could hold on, and we were rapidly passing this our last resource, when I observed a native looking over the side, to whom I held up the oar, which he readily seized, thus intending to arrest the progress of our boat; but the hurry and confusion, together with my attempt to hold on by the other end of the oar, caused me to overbalance myself, and I rolled headlong into the sea. Here I was in a most perilous position, enhanced by being a poor swimmer. However, I contrived to keep my head above water until 1 was picked up by a boat's crew from the craft. This they executed most expeditiously, and then set out after my forlorn comrades, whose hearts, on our approach, bounded with joy. They were taken in tow, and we were shortly deposited on board their vessel. At daybreak they weighed anchor, and put into harbour, and we were ultimately safely lodged on board our own pattamar, resolving never again to venture to sea in so frail a bark. On the following evening we received orders to proceed to Ahmednuggur, east from Bombay one hundred and eighty-one miles. Small boats accom- panied the order, to convey the men up the creek to Panwell, into which they were quickly transferred, and moved off, I being left behind to deliver over the surplus stores, with orders to join my company at the latter mentioned place, on the following evening. After arranging my stores, in readiness to land them 124 A soldier's life in INDIA. in the morning, I dressed and went ashore. By this time it was pretty late. On strolling up the street, the first thing that attracted my attention was a drunk British sailor, surrounded hy the police, who had him lying upon his face, with his hands and feet tied like a wild beast. On my approach they stepped aside, and said if I would take him away they would set him at liberty. To this I acceded, intending to take him on board, and keep him with me until he got sober; but before I had proceeded many paces with him, he became so very unruly and abusive that I was forced to give him over to the police again. Shortly after this I met with another sailor, in a similar condition, to whom I also made an offer of protection, but to no purpose. The name of a British sailor carries with it some importance in the eyes of those who are acquainted with their true character; for Jack is distinctly one man when sober, and another when drunk. A more obliging, warm-hearted, and hard-working class of men are not to be found; and it is painful to see them so far degrading themselves in presence of foreigners, who are ignorant of their good qualities. We find the sailors, while at home, conducting themselves like other men; and why not so abroad? The fact is, they look upon the natives oi India as nobody, and are consequently careless of what they do in their presence ; indeed, the common reply, from both soldiers and sailors, when remonstrated with by their better-thinking comrades, is "Who cares for them black negros !*' Now, a more absurd idea was never fostered in the mind of man. I can only say, from long experience amongst these people, I have usually found them to be exceedingly acute in their observa- A soldier's life in INDIA. 125 tions, and in noticing the merits and demerits of others, but more especially of Europeans, who arro- gate to themselves the superiority of possessing more refined habits, and of being born in a Christian land. Such individuals as these, whether soldiers or sailors, have tended materially to counteract any good effect which was likely to arise from the laudable efforts of the missionaries. Indeed that cause is hopeless in India, until a better example is set the natives by those who call themselves Christians. I have often heard it remarked, and very reasonably too, " In what consists the Christian's boasted superiority? Look at your soldiers and sailors lying drunk, and wallowing in the mire in the public bazaar, like so many pigs; you do not see any of our people in that state." Drunkenness is an abomination in the eyes of all right-thinking men, but in none more than in those of the natives of India, many of whom never taste intoxicating liquors. The soldier should not only avoid this evil, which is the forerunner of all crime, but he should use every means in his power to suppress it in others, if it were only for the credit of the country that gave them birth. When one has succeeded in gaining the confidence of the natives, he has no difficulty in being supplied with any articles he may require, whether it is con- venient to pay cash for them or not. When they find a man honestly disposed they \vill almost force goods upon him. But to return to my narrative. Finding nothing particular in the fort to interest me at this late hour, I strolled, as if it were by in- stinct, out to the graveyard, situated adjacent to a toddy top (a cocoa nut wood), on the outskirts of Dongaree. The gate being shut was no obstacle to m2 126 A soldier's life IX INDIA. a willing heart. I had little difficulty in tracing out the spot which contained the remains of her who once was all the world to me; and on the cold grave I seated myself, and fell into a deep reverie, from which I was awakened only by the firing of the gun at day- break. I then hastened to the bunder or wharf, and ([uickly gave over my stores, and proceeded to Fort George barracks. This being Christmas day, all was mirth and jollity. I was recognised on all hands, and invited to drink with every one. This annoyed me so much that I left abruptly; and in the evening I went on board of a small boat, proceeded up the creek to Panwell, distant twenty miles, and joined my company just as they were beginning to prepare for the morning's march. Two days' march, or about twenty-four miles, over a splendid road, dotted with milestones — a thing not common in India — brought us to the village of Cam- powli, situated at the foot of the range of mountains known by the name of the Ghauts. We passed through a very beautiful country, among hills that form the outskirts of the Ghauts ; rich valleys, now wide, now narrow, enclosed by amphitheatres of hi]ls, some wooded to the top, and others exposing their weather-beaten rocky summits to the skies, through which small streams (though torrents in the rainy season) wind tbeir way to the sea. Next morning we ascended the Ghauts by a zig- zag road, five miles from bottom to top. It is impos- sible here to describe the exquisite beauty of the land- scape. High mountains, and bold projecting rocks, overhang deep woods of trees unknown to Europeans. Flowering shrubs of most delicious perfume, and creep- ing plants, of every varied hue, form natural bowers, A soldier's life in INDIA. 127 as they hang from tree to tree, together with frightfiil precipices, strike the traveller with amazement at every step. The next place of note on our route is the cele- brated caves of Carlee, situated near the top of a mountain covered with jungle, and commanding one of the finest prospects in the world. The great cave, which is hewn out of the solid rock, may be compared to a Gothic cathedral, forty paces in length and fifteen in breadth, with a coved roof supported by twenty-one pillars on each side, and terminating in a semicircle. There are no sculptures within the cavern, except on the capitals of the pillars, which exhibit figures of ele- phants with two riders on each. The great cave of Carlee is really a most magnificent chamber, both as to proportion and workmanship. Poonah, the Mahratta capital, ninety-eight miles from Bombay, is the next place of interest; but as this ancient city is situated about six miles to the right of the direct road, we only obtained a distant view of it. The whole route to Ahmednuggur, completed by us in fifteen marches, is particularly enlivened by beauti- ful scenery, excellent roads with milestones, and a hotel at almost every village. On reaching Seroon, a pretty little town, and military station on a small scale, three marches from our destination, I was agreeably surprised at meeting with none other than my worthy friend of the Sappers and Miners, the same individual who visited me in Fort George barracks at the time of the eventful affair of the trousers with the knot on the leg. He had, ere this, attained a respect- able position, and had taken to himself a help-mate ; he conducted me to his house, where I was treated 128 A soldier's life in INDIA. with the greatest kindness, until it was time for me to set out on the next morning's march. On our arrival at Ahmednuggur, I met with many old acquaintances, such as those who were my ship- mates in coming out from England ; and, amongst the rest, the individual who gulled us to such an ex- tent with his fabricated stories. On reminding him of this, the only excuse he had to make was, that he found us readier to believe fiction than facts. I also again came in contact with my chum Jamie, from whom, I should have before stated, I was separated on proceeding to Bhooj. The military lines here present a lively appearance, consisting of a double row of detached one storey build- ings, each surrounded by a spacious veranda, so that the soldier can walk round the outside of his barrack- room without being exposed to either sun or rain . The married people are accommodated in cottages with small gardens, situated a short distance to the right of the barracks, and called the patcharee, where the married soldier enjoys the society of his wife and little ones en- tirely free from the revelry of a barrack-room. A little farther on we find the military bazaar, where everything is sold that the men can require. Distant about four miles, and situated on the top of a hill, stands a large stone building, commonly called " the old woman's house." On the plain in front of the barracks stands the fort, a place of considerable strength, enclosing the church, together with some other buildings occupied as de- positories for military stores. The " pitty," a large town, is still farther to the front, and is surrounded by a strong mud wall. Again, to the left, and after pass- ing our hospital, the gholander, or native artillery A soldier's life in INDIA. 129 lines, &c., we reach a grove of trees, in the centre of which stands the Great Mogul's palace. This is a favourable resort with our men, not only to view the scenery, and the antique appearance of the structure, but, as silkworms are kept in it, to witness these wonderful insects at their industrial work. Our out offices are in rear of the barracks, includ- ing a most magnificent racket-court — a perfect treat to those fond of ball playing. The ground farther back is studded with officers' bungaloes (houses), and, for miles round, it is pretty level, dotted here and there with pagodas and tombs. There is also a great portion of the country under cultivation, which causes food of every description to be remarkably cheap. I was promoted to the rank of sergeant shortly after my arrival at this station, and, subsequently, to that of pay-sergeant. In reference to cheapness of food, I can only say, that in the non-commissioned officers' mess, we paid at the rate of one pound per month, for which we had a table covered every day, in variety, quality, and quantity, fit for the best gentlemen in the land. Indeed, I have seen more carried from the table than what had been consumed. The gunners paid about half the above sum, and fared little worse. There is a glen of extraordinary depth situated about ten or twelve miles from the barracks, which our men styled •' happy valley," and is a favourite re- sort of pic-nic parties, who obtain a few days' leave to enjoy a change from the monotony of a barrack-room life. I once visited this place, and I have certainly some reason to remember the event. One day, immediately after dinner, feeling at a loss 130 A soldier's life in INDIA. for something to amuse us, a comrade sergeant pro- posed that we should set out for " happy valley." A couple of tattoos (ponies) were quickly brought from the bazaar, and we started at a pace which soon brought us to our destination, when we dismounted, and began to explore the valley. For magnitude and grandeur of scenery, it proved all and more than we anticipated, containing caves and creeks in which the hermit might find seclusion suitable to his taste. The day soon began to close, and the setting sun warned us to retrace our steps. I was no sooner seated in the saddle than I observed our ponies to ex- hibit signs of great fatigue, which I attributed to the rapid rate at which we had ridden them, enhanced, as I fancied, by some work they might have done be- fore they were put into our hands; and, fearing that they would break down ere we reached home, I dis- mounted, and advised my friend to do the same ; but he declined, saying that he paid for the pony, and he was determined to take the value of his money out of him. I proceeded along on foot for some time, but the night becoming very dark, I thought of again mount- ing. However, the animal seemed to possess instinct enough to know that he was better without me, for in attempting to lay hold of him, he threw up his heels, started across the country, and was out of sight in an instant, leaving me no other alternative than to foot it home. I desired my comrade to push forward, and I would follow; but, to our great con- sternation, we soon discovered that we had lost the road, and, it being the close of the monsoons, we were constantly getting up to the knees in pools of water, some of which were as large as tanks. In en- A soldier's life in INDIA. 131 deavouring to avoid them we were led still farther astray. My state of excitement was now beyond all bounds. Being a young sergeant, and feeling proud of my position, I dreaded the consequence of being re- ported absent; besides, as I was now in the lead, pushing forward at all hazards, I was in danger of losing my life in some water-pit. At last we reached a few huts, into one of which I rushed, and found it full of women, together with an infirm old man ; the former screamed and ran out, and no wonder, for I must have been a fright to look at, having been, on several oc- casions, up to the middle in water. The latter I seized, and demanded that he should show me the road : he urged that he was not able to walk; but I was too desperate to admit of any excuse, so I drag- ged him out, and he showed me enough to convince me that we were close to the walls of the " pitty," but on the extreme side from our barracks. Being now put on the right road, we made all speed round the walls of the city, and reached home just as the bugles began to sound tattoo. I quickly divested myself of my wet and bespattered clothes, and was just in time to appear with my company at roll call, and all was right so far. But my difficulties were not yet at an end. A demand was made upon me for the pony, or the value of it; consequently, I engaged three natives, and despatched them in search of the ungrateful brute, whose signs of fatigue were nothing more than the effects of being kept standing in one position for a length of time after so smart a ride. However, my anxiety about the pony was quickly turned into mirth by a snuffy individual, in the capa- city of park and store sergeant, who had come over from the fort to have a night's booze in the canteen, 132 and who entered the small room occupied by my fellow-excursionist and me, and eagerly seized a box of tooth-powder, which was lying convenient, saying, " I am glad you have got snuif, as I have lost my box." He crammed two hearty pinches up his nose ere we had time to inform him of its contents. He then began to entertain us with a recital of former events, or, in other words, to fight his battles over again for our edification, every now and again helping himself to another pinch. His frontispiece soon be- came so besmeared with the black powder, Avhich was chiefly composed of ground charcoal, that to command our gravity was impossible. The noise of our mirth brought others in to join in the jest, and the box was quickly handed round, each, of course, pretending to take a pinch before they lodged it in the hands of our worthy entertainer, and it was not until he had nearly finished the whole contents that he discovered the cheat. Then he opened upon us and called us every opprobrious epithet that his imagination could invent, saying that we had taken the snuff out of the box and substituted pounded charcoal, and, said he, " Did you really think that I would not know the difference ? Aha ! I am too old a soldier to be done by a set of plumpers" (recruits). But to return to the pony ; after being two days absent, the natives brought him in minus the saddle, alleging that it was detained as compensation for damage the animal had done to the crops. I had next to forward money to release the saddle, so, on the whole, my excursion to the " happy valley" proved more expensive than pleasant. The highly efficient state of the native army excites wonder and admiration, particularly when we reflect A soldier's life in INDIA. 133 on the character of the people. Labouring under the constraint of caste, bigotry, and superstition, which ren- der them rigidly averse to the European habit; prefer- ring to have their feet shod with sandals, or shoes down in the heels, with long turned up toes, to the best Europe manufactured boots or shoes; and wearing their beards as long as Jews, with strings of beads round the neck in place of a stock, and the hair put up with various combs, so as to prevent the possibility of getting a regimental cap upon the head, — considering these obstacles, looked upon at one time as almost insur- mountable, we can only admire the dauntless and persevering spirit of the British officers, who have gradually overcome them all, and ultimately suc- ceeded in having the native army as well organised, equipped, and disciplined, as any European regiment ; and as to military appearance (save and except the dark complexion), nothing can surpass them. I would instance the gholandars (native artillery), whose average height can be little short of five feet 10 inches, though many of them are above six feet; and, as I have been frequently on the same battery with them at practice, I can vouch for their efficiency in that respect. Indeed, were I to say that they did not make as good practice as we did, either with shot or shell, I would be doing them injustice. And it must be borne in mind that the Honourable Com- pany's European artillery, from the opportunities they have for practice, are second to none. And, again, there are our six feet grenadier regi- ments, a credit to the service, whose deeds of bravery are proverbial throughout India. But, above all, we have the native cavalry, yvith their handsome sky blue uniform, martial helmets, broad shoulders, and small N 134 A soldier's life in INDIA. waists, many of them perfect models of men, mounted upon their spirited Arabian steeds, presenting a war- like appearance not easily to be surpassed. Recruits are not taken in the most ordinary infantry corps under five feet seven, and in some regiments not below five feet eight inches. The sepoys seem happy and contented, and appear proud of the military profession, so that there is no difficulty in obtaining recruits to almost any extent, although there is no bounty given as an inducement to enter the service. The mode of attesting or swearing in these men is somewhat singular. The regiment forms a square with the colours crossed in the centre, under which the recruits are formed up, and sworn never to desert their colours. The native regimental schoolmasters administer the oath. The rule of faith used for the Mussulman being the Koran, and for the Hindoos, a little water from some sacred river, such as the Gunga (Ganges). However ridiculous this oath may appear in our eyes, it seems to have more effect upon their conscience than the usual oath taken by Christians, for it is rare indeed that any of them desert, and, from their temperate habits, they are easily managed. Although their pay does not amount to more than half the sum given to the European soldier, many of them save money, their wants being easily supplied. On the whole, the sepoys form an army highly creditable to the service; every European soldier should feel proud of their co-operation, and not look upon them with contempt, as is too often the case. One night, immediately after tattoo, a hue and cry was raised that there was a bear in the lines, and a number of the boys, who were at all times ready for anything in the shape of sport, sallied forth to give 13.5 Bruin a warm reception. The bear, however, seemed to shun the attack, as he set off at full speed, and they after him round by the back of the patcharee, where the ground was very irregular, being full of nullas and prickly-pear bushes, into which, from the eager- ness of the chase, and the darkness of the night, the men tumbled in half dozens. At last Bruin turned to the right, and took refuge in an officer's bungalow. The occupant, alarmed at seeing his premises about to be stormed in so formidable a manner — the pur- suers having rallied round the house in every direc- tion, to cut oflf any chance of escape — rushed out, shouting "What is the matter, men; what is the mat- ter?" "A bear, Sir," simultaneously exclaimed a dozen almost breathless voices. " A bear," replied the officer ; " go home to your beds, you set of fools ; it is my bear, and a tame one, that would not injure any of you." Chagrined and disappointed at this unex- pected rebuff, they slowly retraced their steps, pick- ing up their wounded from amongst the nullas and bushes, from the prickles of the latter many of them being severely punished. Smarting and bleeding, they were conveyed to their respective barrack-rooms. But here the affair did not end ; for next morning, while the battalion was parading, an extraordinary number of men were found wanting, who were answered for by their comrades as being sick. This, at first, led to the supposition that the cholera, or some malignant fever, had broken out ; but it was soon told that they were chasing the bear last night. As a matter of course, they were all ordered off to the hospital ; and, presently, they began to emerge from their quarters in groups of four or five, present- ing a true picture of the lame leading the blind. 136 A soldier's life in INDIA. However, after undergoing a rather tedious and deli- cate process in the way of extracting prickles, they all, in due time, returned to their duty, and got well laughed and scoffed at, and were, for long afterwards, stigmatized as the bear hunters. After a residence of about eighteen months at this station, we were again ordered to Bombay. And as I have before given a short description of the road, &c., I shall now confine myself to such incidents as occurred on the way. Having occasion, one morning, to march along with the baggage, and thinking that I might have a shot on the way, I got my fowling-piece put in order, and placed upon a hackray (cart), which contained little more than my own luggage and the company's books, and desired it to be detained behind all others, so as I might meet with no interruption. At day-break, I went some little distance from the cart in search of game ; but I was soon alarmed by a wild cry from the driver, which caused me to run to his assistance, thinking, as he had been nodding and sleeping all morning, that he had fallen under the wheel. But I was more than surprised to find three natives, almost in a state of nudity, with their dark oily skins glitter- ing in the rising sun, all upon the cart ransacking it, and the driver away along the road, running for his life. It was the work of a moment for me to bring the piece to my shoulder, and give them its contents ; and, although small shot, it seemed to tell pretty sweetly upon the naked skin, particularly of one of them, who was in a stooping position, with his back towards me, and at whose nether parts I took my aim. However, the shot had the desired effect, as they made one bound off the cart, and were soon out A soldier's life in INDIA. 137 of sight, without carrying anything with them. The driver now returned, and gave me many salaams : he resumed his position, and we moved on without being further molested. Such depredations were not un- common upon this road at one time, but it is now perfectly safe, perhaps through such examples as I met with a little farther on — namely, three natives hanging on gibbets, and the grease dropping out of them from the heat of the sun. As we rested two days opposite Poonah, I embraced the opportunity of visiting this ancient city, more for the purpose, however, of seeing my worthy friend, Johnny Bain, whose regiment was stationed there, than for any desire to see the town. Poor fellow, I found him reduced from the rank of sergeant through his old and only fault, want of firmness. His heart filled the moment he saw me. I remained with him all that night, and next day we visited some of the principal places of the city. But I am prevented from saying anything in the way of description, as I find I am far outstretching the bounds intended for my nar- rative ; so I must pass on by simply saying that Poonah is a splendid place, and is an excellent station for troops, being very healthy, and provisions very cheap. It is headquarters for our horse artillery, or gentlemen soldiers, as some people are pleased to call them, styled so, no doubt, from their fancy uniform, together with their being allowed gora-wallahs (horse keepers), to groom their horses, and Lascars to clean their guns. Natives being thus allowed, and paid for by Government, to do the rough work for both horse and foot artillery, renders the life of the soldier both easy and comfortable, and, of course, gives them an air of importance ; but there is one thing certain, n2 138 A soldier's life is ixdia. they cannot be called feather-bed soldiers, as they are ever able and ready for their work in the field, and can do it in a manner that has never yet been sur- passed, scarcely equalled. At last we arrived safely in our old quarters, Fort George barracks, and at a time, too, when the streets were particularly enlivened by numerous processions going about from sunset to sunrise, with tom-toms (small drums), kettle drums, pipes, vins citarrs, and a large brazen trumpet, which requires two persons to carry it, the whole making the most horrible noise ever heard ; this, together with the picturesque dresses of the dancing girls, and their graceful atti- tudes, the numerous torches and fire-works which brilliantly light up the scene, makes one almost fancy himself transported to fairy land. But the greatest annual procession that takes place is what is usually called cocoa-nut day. It is held at the close of the monsoons, in token of the sea hav- ing become navigable. About an hour before sunset an immense concourse of people assemble towards the beach, where they have booths erected, with all kinds of commodities for sale. The wealthy natives appear in their carriages, and the display of jewels and pearls is astonishing. At sunset, one of the chief Brah- mins advances to the water's edge, and throws in a gilt cocoa-nut, and immediately thousands of people follow his example, every one being eager to make their offering, until the water becomes literally covered with cocoa-nuts. Then follows music, danc- ing, tumbling, juggling, and tame snake exhibiting. The tumblers (particularly the women), for strength and agility surpass any of the kind I ever saw, and the tricks of the jugglers are truly marvellous. The A soldier's life in INDIA. 139 snakes are made to rise on their tails, spread their hoods, advance, retreat, hiss, and pretend to bite at the word of command. Snakes are held in great veneration by the natives, particularly the cobra de capella ; so that they will not suffer them to be de- stroyed when it is in their power to prevent it. The Mahomedan procession, or festival, celebrated in honour of the young martyrs Hossein and Houssien, sons of Ali, is the most gorgeous affair of the kind that we witness in India. The people are divided into many parties, each endeavouring to have the most gorgeous tazuh, or tomb. To defray the ex- pense of these, they go about soliciting money for weeks before the time of meeting, one of their number being enveloped in something like a tiger's skin, w^ith an enormous long tail, which is held up by a man who dodges behind the individual so disguised, while he is on his hands and feet, perform- ing a variety of antics, and acting the wild beast in a very creditable manner. This performance, of course, is accompanied by music. The tombs, though very gay, are nothing more than a light frame-work, covered with gilt paper or silk, of the most showy colours, and vary in size and grandeur, according to the finances of the party; there are, however, some- times costly ornaments attached to them. They are made square, with a suitable tower at each corner, and a domed top, frequently crowned by a globe, and the largest may be about six yards each way. They are carried in procession, with torches, music, and dancing, through the streets for a number of nights. To obtain the precedency sometimes leads to serious riots, which call for the interference of the civil magistrates, who order out a strong body of sepoys 140 to keep the peace. The procession is sometimes headed by a platform, gorgeously hung with silk drapery, and bearing upon it a few dancing girls, per- forming their graceful attitudes. This affair is brought to a close by a day procession, when they proceed to the sea, or river, as the case may be, and after a protracted ceremony, amidst the deafening sounds of drums and trumpets, the tombs are im- mersed in the water, and there abandoned. There is another procession, of a very ludicrous character, which I have noticed, particularly in the city of Surat, where I subsequently sojourned for some time. It is composed solely of Fakeers, a kind of begging priests, who go about in as near a state to nudity as possible, having nothing on them but a handkerchief, or rag, tied across their loins, and not spread out wider than is required for a man's neck. Their hair is long and matted, and their bodies besmeared over vrith ashes. Generally speaking, they are stout and muscular, no doubt arising from the lazy, negligent life they lead. In their proces- sions, a few of their number who take the precedency are mounted on horseback, and the others follow on foot, with long bamboos in their hands. At the close of the procession they sit down to a feast, cooked for them in the open air, and of which they liberally partake, without the aid of a single table utensil. The solids are served out on leaves of trees, and the fluids in cups formed of the same, and fastened to- gether with long prickles. The fish at Bombay, and all along the coast, are excellent. The pamflets, for instance, something like our flounders, but much thicker, are delicious. The bumbelos, which resemble large sand-eels, are dried A soldier's life in INDIA. 141 in the sun, and tied up in bunches, and fonvarded to many parts of the country. They are excellent for breakfast, with kedgeree, a dish of rice and dol (split countr}^ peas), and coloured with turmerick. The shrimps are very large, and of excellent flavour. We are also blessed in India with abundance of choice vegetables all the year round, both from European and country seed. European potatoes, cabbage, car- rots, and turnips, are now produced in abundance; but I always preferred the country vegetables. The sweet potatoes, bringaal and bendy, were great favourites of mine. The latter is about the length and thickness of a person's finger, or rather larger, is full of round seeds, and, when boiled, is soft and mucilaginous. It is an excellent ingredient in curries or soups, though it seemed to me best plain boiled. There is a kind of cress, called badgie, to which I would wish to draw the attention of those newly arriving in the country, as it has a peculiar tendency to regulate the bowels. As the climate at first frequently produces severe costiveness, by using a little of this cress every day to dinner, or as often as required, it would obviate the disagreeable necessity of taking medicine. It is cooked like greens, gi-ows wild in abundance during the rainy season, and is at other times cultivated as a pot-herb. Nothing can surpass the medical treatment of soldiers in India. Every comfort is provided for them when sick. The unwearied attention of the surgeons has often produced in me feelings of the deepest in- terest and admiration. It must be a source of great comfort and consolation to the sick soldier to know that his life is particularly cared for, seeing that every effort is made by the best educated gentlemen in the 142 A soldier's life in INDIA. country to restore him to his wonted health and strength. If men were as careful in endeavouring to preserve their own health as the doctors are in endeavouring to restore it to them when sick, the mortality list would soon become greatly reduced. But how often do we find a man, while in the act of examining the interior of his watch, taking care to keep it as far from his mouth as possible, lest his breath should injure the machinery, whilst he is not afraid, day after day, to pour down his own throat numerous glasses of spirits, although he may be con- scious that it is eating into the vital parts of his own machinery, and must, sooner or later, bring him to a premature grave, with all the burning pangs of a self- destroyer upon his head. Can there be anything up- on earth more preposterous than this ? What, in the name of common sense, is the value of a watch, or ten thousand watches, in comparison to the man's constitution ? When it is totally gone, all that the world can produce is nothing more to him than the dirt that fills up his grave ! But awful as a case of this kind must be in a single man, how much more so must it be with the married man, who has a wife, and a number of helpless children depending upon him for support, while he is languishing upon a death- bed, from disease brought on by his own imprudence; and hearing his helpless offspring, calling out to a care-worn and heart-broken mother, for bread, while she has none to give them ? Although we have no opportunity of witnessing a scene so heart-rending in India, as such could not for a moment be tolerated in the army, yet it is nevertheless true that such scenes are of too frequent occurrence amongst the working classes in our own country. A soldier's life in INDIA. 143 The diseases in the east are generally not danger- ous, when the proper remedies are applied in time ; but it is too often the case that a man goes about for weeks, with, say liver complaint upon him, whilst the only medicine he takes to assuage the pain is brandy or arrack. This may stupify the sys- tem, and give momentary relief, but, in reality, is only adding fuel to the flame. At last he awakes some morning with an excruciating pain in his side, which renders him unable to move, and he can conceal his complaint no longer. A dooley is sent for, and he is conveyed to hospital. The doctor seems alarmed at the symptoms of his new patient, and cen- sures him for not coming to hospital sooner ; but the deed is done, and cannot be recalled, and, in all pro- bability, the patient never comes out alive, or, if he does, it can only be with an impaired constitution. Hence the necessity of instantly applying for medical aid. Again, I have known old soldiers to get drunk, as a cure for various complaints, and recommend the same cure to others. Now they may just as well say when a house is on fire at one end, the best way to extinguish it is to set fire to it at the other. Seeing, then, as we must all see, that we can enjoy nothing in this life without health, and knowing that ardent spirits kill more men than the cholera, or any other malignant disease, is it not our bounden duty to avoid this great enemy of mankind, and to use every means in our power to preserve health ? A six days' debauch will bring a man nearer his grave than a six months' campaign. As man was made to labour, he is capable of enduring great fatigue ; but his " inside " was never made proof against the evil efl^ects of liquor, which have all the opposite influ- 144 A soldier's life in INDIA. ences to that regimen which is necessary to sustain the human frame. I know it is the desire of all good soldiers, who think of the future, to serve out their full period of time (twenty-one years), and retire on a good pension. It is true that many prefer remaining in the country, but the greater number are anxious to return home, in a better condition than when they left, and spend the remainder of their days in peace and comfort. Now there is but one course by which they can reasonably hope to attain this desired end, and that is by living temperate in all things; excesses, of any description, being ruinous. Let them be respectful and obedient, and study to become proficient in the duties of a soldier; also, improve the mind, so as to become fit for some respectable situation in civil life. This course will assuredly bring its own reward. Promo- tion v^dll rapidly follow, and the individual so acting will find himself at the end of his service in a respec- table position. It may be said that there cannot be promotion for every one. In reply to this I can only say that I have already pointed out the numerous openings for deserving men in the Honourable Com- pany's service, and further state that there are more promoted than really deserve it. The commanding ofiicer of a native regiment once asked me if I could recommend two men to him, to fill the places of his sergeant-major and quarter-mas- ter-sergeant, who had just left him for better situa- tions. I replied in the negative, but added, " Sir, if you apply in the usual way, they will soon send you two." His reply was, "I will rather do without them than take chance of such as they are likely to send me." I held a better situation at the time, or nothing A soldier's life in INDIA. 145 would have given me more pleasure than to have served under this officer, as I knew him to be a true fi'iend to a good soldier. Having briefly endeavoured to show the evil of in- temperance, I will now instance a case or two by way of proving what good may be done by drunkards becoming teetotal, or even temperate. The first that I will bring to the notice of the reader is that of an individual who was looked upon as one of the great- est drunkards in the regiment, and, consequently, was seldom out of trouble. He was induced, on one occasion, to go over to the library to hear a temper- ance lecture, and the first impression it produced on his mind was, that it was only a scheme got up to de- prive the soldier of the comfort of his glass. How- ever, the lecturer at last pointed out cases where men, though once great drunkards, were prospering in the world since they became temperate. This seemed to strike him in the right quarter. He re- turned to the barrack-room, stretched himself upon his cot, and began to think seriously if it were not possible for him to become like one of these men. A strong resolution was instantly formed, and he afterwards as much detested as he once had loved the dram ; and, like the prodigal son in the parable, he was soon better treated than if he had never of- fended. Promotion rapidly followed, and I had the pleasure of seeing him, some twelve years afterwards, in his native country, a conductor on two years' fur- lough. But home to him seemed to have lost all its charms, as he only remained a few months, when he again returned to India, where he is still serving, and a more respectable man is not to be found in the same capacity. 146 A soldier's life in INDIA. Another individual of some talent, but a devoted worshipper of Bacchus, was sitting over the glass one night with a few of his drunken associates, discuss- ing the affairs of the regiment, and ridiculing some who had just been promoted. At last he started up, and solemnly declared that he would be promoted himself before that day two years. His companions laughed at him ; but he instantly left them, and be- became a teetotaller, and, ere the two years expired, he was a stafP sergeant. This individual is also still in India, but I am told he is free from the army, and prospering in civil life. European marriages in India seem to be more of a speculative character, or a matter of convenience, than anything else ; or, perhaps, it is marry first, and love afterwards. Young ladies frequently arrive from England in expectation of obtaining wealthy husbands, and it is not uncommon to see a girl of six- teen years getting married to an old gentleman of sixty. Old soldiers sometimes get coupled to girls that were not in existence for years after they arrived in the country. And again, it is quite common for a young soldier to marry a woman old enough to be his mother. It is needless to say that these matrimonial engagements do not at all times lead to the felicity anticipated. I knew a young woman here, of very prepossessing appearance, about seventeen years of age, whose par- ents died when she was very young, leaving her heir to a considerable sum, which she was to inherit on attaining majority. A man belonging to our regiment, who had formerly led a profligate life, but who, at the time referred to, seemed to have reformed his habits, contrived to ingratiate himself into her A soldier's life in INDIA. 147 good graces. A short courtship ensued, and they were married. Broils and quarrels followed each other, and the result was, that she frequently left her home for weeks together, in search of comfort else- where. During her temporary absence on one of these occasions, he contrived to get possession of her cash, and, at the same time, succeeded in getting himself invalided — a matter in which he could have no difficulty, owing to the emaciated state of his frame, arising from a long course of intemperance. Being ignorant of the regular system of transmitting money to England, he managed to get it all in gold, and, sto^ving it away in his box, embarked for Lon- don, where, it seemed, from what we afterwards learned, on his arrival he got intoxicated, and, on awaking out of a drunken sleep, found himself minus the box, containing all his ill-acquired gold. This information conveyed a feeling of satisfaction to all those who knew him ; but, I am sorry to say, that the poor girl — who, I have no doubt, would have made a virtuous wife to a good man — afterwards led an abandoned life. The reader may have read a description of the Elephanta caves from a much abler pen than mine; yet I cannot think of passing over these wonder- ful excavations, without a few simple and una- dorned remarks. To visit these caves, then, I hired a bunder, or pier boat, and invited a few ft-iends, of both sexes, to accompany me; and a convivial party we were. We found ourselves, one beautiful morn- ing, ere the sun had risen above the horizon, seated in the little cabin of the bunder boat, with many of the fine things of this life at our call, and skimming over the blue waters, with a gentle breeze, towards Ele- 148 A soldier's life m ixdia. phanta. A short time sufficed to bring us to the island, which is situated at no great distance on the opposite side of the bay, and is a mountain isle, with a double top, wooded to the summit. Here we were met by an old pensioner, stationed on the island, and facetiously styled governor, who kindly undertook to conduct us to the cave. He led us up a romantic pass, sometimes shaded with trees, and at other places, walled by rocks, until the cavern unexpectedly be- came open to our view. Here I was struck with a sensation of astonishment. At first sight it appeared all darkness within, while all around shrubs and flowers of the most brilliant hues were waving in the gentle breeze. On entering the cave my sight became gradually more distinct, so that I was able with ease to survey the wonderful chamber in which I stood. The roof, which may be about twenty feet in height, is supported by massive pillars, carved in the solid rock, many of which are colossal figures of men, wo- men, and elephants. There are also many figures sculptured on the sides of the cavern ; but the most remarkable is that situated at the extreme end, op- posite the entrance, which is a gigantic three-headed bust. The centre head seems to be the largest, which, from the chin to the top of the cap, can be little short of nine feet. One of the figures, of which I took particular notice, has four faces ; some have four, and even eight hands, and one is half male half female. The sculpture work is well executed, al- though, it is believed by many, that these caverns in India were completed before the Christian era. How- ever, as history gives us no account of them, this can only be conjecture. The Hindoos attribute the work- manship to the gods. But there is one thing certain, A soldier's life in INDIA. 149 the natives must have been far advanced in the arts of civilized life at the time these caves were excavated. I am sorry to say that an attempt seems to have been made to destroy this celebrated Hindoo temple, as fragments of statues strew the floor, and columns are split in two, and some, without bases, are suspended from the parent rock above. This destruction is at- tributed to the Portuguese, who, in their intemperate zeal to convert the natives, made war upon their gods and temples. After leaving this stupendous monument of idol- atry, we came in contact with a party of British sailors, who seemed more intent on gathering tama- rinds than exploring the works of antiquity, as they were literally loading themselves with this acid fruit, which, they alleged, was a good preventative of scurvy. At last we got reseated in the little cabin of the bunder boat, and, after some pitching and toss- ing, as the wind had increased to a stiff breeze, we reached the barracks a little after sunset, much gra- tified with our day's excursion. Bombay, to the military in this quarter of India, is something like a second home; they like very well to visit it occasionally, buthave little inclinationto prolong their stay, as life in the interior is much more desir- able — and this was the case with me. Indeed, I felt all anxiety to be again at a station where I could en- joy the privilege of going out with my gun in search of game. But seeing that I had little chance of soon attaining this object by remaining in my own com- pany, I contrived to get transferred to another that was just about to embark for Bhooj, as I had formed a particular fancy for that station ; but as I have pre • viously given some description of it, I will now con- 02 150 A soldier's life in INDIA. fine myself to particular events. The boats being all ready, I was ordered off to draw the rations, and see them safe on board. This done, the company era- barked, and the voyage proved a very favourable one. I was quite delighted, on reaching my old station at Bhooj, to find that great improvements had been made in the barrack accommodation. The roofs were raised much higher, and th9 verandas extended. A well had also been sunk, to supply a new range of private baths, built for the use of the men, with water. I was here appointed to keep the canteen — the most lucrative situation that a man can have in the corps, but one that ill suited my disposition. Indeed, it was the means of producing a good deal of ill feeling to- wards me amongst the men, simply because I would not give them as much liquor as they wanted. And, could it be believed, one of them actually entertained a design upon my life, and for no other reason than that I would not allow him liquor enough to get in- toxicated. At the time this occurred, I was living in an officer's bungalow, as the officer and his lady had left the station for some time, and, dreading thieves, they requested that I would reside on the premises until their return. I may add, that I here enjoyed myself very well, as I had free access to the whole house, including a splendid library, and a beautiful garden, with fruit and vegetables in abundance. A horse was also left behind, on which I was allowed to ride out at any time I thought fit. One dark night, while I was walking home to this my temporary abode, immediately after closing the canteen, I was suddenly stopped by a man, named M'Dade, who appeared before me in a menacing at- titude, armed with a bayonet in one hand, and a A soldier's life in ixdia. 151 large stone in the other. He demanded my reason for refusing to supply him with liquor in the canteen about an hour previously. By this time I was be- yond the reach of immediate assistance. I stood be- fore him in a cool and unmoved manner, and replied, " My good fellow, you must be aware that I can have no vindictive or pecuniary reason for refusing to sup- ply you with liquor ; were I to keep it from you, and drink it myself, you might have some reason to com- plain, but there is enough for us all ; so that the sole reason that I can assign for refusing to supply you this evening is simply because I thought you had had too much before, and I consider I would have been doing you a great injury, had I given you more." Here he coughed, hum'd, and ha'd, for a few seconds, and then threw the bayonet and the stone away from him with great violence, saying, " The devil w^as in my heart this evening. God forgive me for the wricked design. Can you forgive me ; will you for- give me ? " " Yes," said I, " I both can and shall forgive you, but I will never forgive the bitter enemy that brought you here this night." " Oh, what enemy ? There was no one brought me here, I came of my own accord." " No," said I, " you did not ; had it not been for that accursed enemy, you Would have shuddered at the idea of meeting me in this hos- tile manner." " Whom do you mean at all ? " sobbed he ; "is it the devil you mean?" " It is drink, his chief agent, to which I allude. Had you been in your sober senses, you would have scorned the action." By this time he was sobbing and crying like a child, and, after obtaining many promises from me that I would not report the circumstance, we shook hands and parted. 152 A soldier's life in INDIA. I was somewhat surprised to find that our ration of beef, though before but seldom given, was now dis- continued altogether. From a desire to ascertain the cause, I gleaned the following information : — A tribe of Hindoos, I believe, peculiar to this quarter, were in the habit of destroying their female offspring, the mothers of the infants being usually the executioners. They state, in defence of this barbarous practice, that it is difficult to procure a suitable settlement for their daughters in marriage, and to preserve the honour of females is a serious charge in a family, and that, when they want wives, it is much more convenient to buy them, or obtain them from other castes, than to rear them themselves. The mode of taking the lives of their female infants, was by putting a little opium in the mouth immediately after birth, or drowning them in milk. But what must appear very ridiculous to the European reader, these very people were constantly complaining against us for killing bullocks ; and it seemed that the Government had entered into an agreement with them, that they were to abolish the barbarous practice of destroying their infants, and we were to cease killing oxen. Hence the cause of our being deprived of beef. However, this, in my opinion, was a matter of no moment to any one, as the mutton was decidedly preferable. But some seemed to think otherwise, as will be seen from what follows. A party made it up to go out under cloud of night, and kill one of the many sacred bulls that go about unmolested — a greater crime they could not be guilty of in the eyes of the natives. A pair of bull- ocks were employed daily in drawing up water to supply the baths before mentioned, which were gene- A soldier's life in INDIA. 153 rally left by the driver to graze about the lines all night. They inadvertently seized upon one of these, a poor worn-out looking animal, that seemed to have been in draft for upwards of twelve years ; but, I sup- pose, all were alike to them in the dark. The poor brute was soon despatched, the party no doubt think- ing that they would have a savoury beefsteak for breakfast in the morning. The ow^ner of the animal attended next day to follow his vocation as usual ; but, to his consternation, one of his bullocks was no- where to be found, and it was only after a long search that he came across its skin, hid amongst the hills. Presently he made his appearance, coming towards me, dragging the skin after him by the tail. I con- ducted him to the captain, who at first laughed very heartily at the affair, saying, that if the men thought proper to kill bullocks, they would just have to pay for them ; but, in an instant, the nature of the case struck him, and he called for his horse, and gal- loped up to the lines like a madman, and instituted a strict inquiry into the matter, at the same time, making the men fully acquainted with the nature of the offence. But, fortunately, the native was one of a caste that cared as little about the life of a bullock as we did ; all that he wanted was to be compensated for his loss. A sum which far exceeded the value of the animal was speedily collected and handed to the man, and so the affair terminated. A select party of us obtained a week's leave of ab- sence, to go into the country on a shooting and hunt- ing excursion, and, as we were bent upon making the most of it, we loaded two carts with camp furniture, provisions, &c., and sent them on before, in charge of a few followers, whom we instructed to take up quar- 154 A soldier's life in INDIA. ters for us in the travellers' house of a particular village. We followed, mounted on good steeds, and armed with fowling pieces and spears, the latter be- ing necessary for hog hunting. On reaching the village, we were somewhat surprised to find the in- habitants resisting the attempts of our people to put the luggage into the traveller's house, saying, as an excuse, that it was their only place of worship, and that none but their own caste were allowed to lodge in it. However, this did not discommode us in the least, as we had changed our plan, and resolved to proceed further on before we stopped for the night. But one of our number, who was a wag of no ordi- nary kind, intimated that he would bewitch the village, or put the jaddah, as it is called, on it, in re- venge for the unfriendly treatm^ent we had met with. Some of our followers, being no strangers to his waggish tricks, instantly took it up, and whispered amongst the villagers that he was a barra jaddah wallah, or a notorious wizard. He then raised his hands and face towards the sky, and muttered some- thing, and performed antics so ludicrous that all our efforts to suppress the bursting laugh proved unavail- ing. We then moved off, with about half the inhabi- tants after us, begging that we would come back and lodge where we liked, if he would but take the jaddah off the village; but he continued inexorable. Pre- sently we came to a large banyan tree, under which we took shelter from the sun, and the cook served us with an excellent repast. While we were eating and making merry, the village people stood at a respect- ful distance, censuring each other for interfering with us. On our again taking the road the w^ag was more A soldier's life IX INDIA. 155 earnestly applied to than ever to come back and take the jaddah off the village, but all to no purpose. Before we reached the next village it was quite dark; but here we were met by two men, who promptly conducted us to the travellers' house, and showed us every mark of kindness and respect. Many of the other inhabitants also came forward, and gave us every assistance in their power. The difference of the manner in which we were received by the people in the two villages was the topic of our discourse for some time; but we ultimately learned the cause. A messenger had been sent from the former place, to give the people notice of our approach, so that they might be prepared to show due reverence to the jaddah wallah. We got up early next morning, and went out for a few hours' shooting. We had excellent sport, and killed a great deal of game, but saw no hogs. On our return, and after having breakfasted, I was sur- prised to see a crowd of people coming up the narrow street that led to our domicile, opposite which they stopped, and a lusty-looking personage, whom I took to be their chief, asked if he could see the jaddah wallah. I pointed out to him our worthy wag, who was standing close by me. He then asked permission to come in, which was readily granted. After giving us a few salaams, he seated himself on the floor, and commenced a long harangue, part of which was as follows: — "1 hope you find yourselves comfortable here, and that our people are kind to you." We answered in the affirmative. "We are glad to see Europeans, when they are civil; but some of your people are so wild that we are afraid of them. You are welcome to remain here as long as you please, 156 A soldier's life in ixdia. but I hope you will not put the jaddah on the village." The wag replied that we had been most kindly treated, that he would bless the village, and that he would remember it to the last day of his life. At these words a glow of pleasure came over the coun- tenance of the chief, who before looked as solemn as if he had been going to be hung. He then urged the w^ag to go back to the other village and undo the evil, as a child had died there the night previous. After being repeatedly told that such would be done on his account, he made a number of salaams, and departed in high glee. Finding no hogs in this quarter, we set out on the following morning for a village about fifteen miles distant, where we were well received, and met with all we wanted; but being unaccustomed to hog hunt- ting, it was only after a long and protracted chase that we succeeded in spearing one, which we left on the ground, a mess for the jackals, as we were getting far more game than we could consume. While we remained here a man came to us with a very sore leg, soliciting our advice. As the leg was in a filthy state, the wag told him to wash it well every morning, apply vegetable poultices, and stand upon his head, with his feet up against a wall, every night before he went to bed. Another native came running to us one evening, in a state of great excite- ment, saying that his wife had been bitten by a snake. The jaddah wallah's services were again called into requisition. He desired the man to run and bring a vessel, into which he emptied about half a tumbler of brandy, and gave strict injunctions that the woman should be made to drink it. Next morning the man again made his appearance, salaaming to the very 157 ground, saying that his wife's life was saved, but that she was still a little sick. The wag remarked that she might be the better of a glass to cure her head. It may be necessary here to remark, that there are many snakes in India, the bite of \\hich is not mortal. Shortly after this excursion, I received a letter from my chum Jamie, intimating that he had got an offer of a situation as constable in Bombay, and, at the same time, asking my advice as to whether he should take it or not. I wrote and advised him to have no- thing to do with it, as I was of opinion that he would not keep it any length of time. But in the course of a month I received another letter, stating that he was appointed to the situation, and that he had furnished a house with everything of the very best description, from the proceeds of his wife's industry, and that he had got a pony, and was doing well. The letter con- cluded with a strong invitation for me to come to Bombay and see them, and make their house my home. Feeling interested in his welfare, and as I had some business to transact at headquarters, I ap- plied and procured a month's leave. A conductor and a corporal followed my example, and we all set out together. On arriving at Bombay, I hired a palanquin, and was hastening on to my friend, when I met a white- hatted gentlemen (a constable), of whom I inquired after Jamie, and was very coolly informed that I would find him in the barracks. " The barracks," said I, with amazement ; " what is he doing there ? " " Well," said he, " he did not suit us ; nothing less would do him than a horse, and, if he did not ride to the d 1, he at least rode into the general hospital, labouring under a severe attack of delirium tremens, p 158 A soldier's life in INDIA. brought on by hard drinking ; and, after undergoing a course of medical treatment, he was sent back to the regiment." I now turned and proceeded direct to the barracks, where I found Jamie and his wife sitting like two stucco figures, looking at each other. His head had been shaved, and marks of leeches were yet visible on the fore part of it. His wife had latterly evinced a strong desire to do well, and, no doubt, would have succeeded, had her husband conducted him- self as any rational man would have done. She com- plained bitterly to me of not getting half the value of her furniture, which she was forced to sell. But per- ceiving that my visit, under the circumstances, was anything but consoling to them, I made it as brief as common politeness would admit. To' save time and space in making another refer- ence to my chum Jamie, I will here conclude his car- eer in India, by stating that he was, shortly after this, promoted to park and store sergeant, from which situation he was also sent back to the corps. By this time he had completed his fourteen years' service, and he was invalided, and sent to England (accompanied by his wife), on a pension of ninepence per day. After enjoying ourselves pretty freely in Bombay, we set out on our return passage, which, from calms and contrary winds, proved a very tedious one. We were compelled to put in at Port-bunder for a fresh supply of provisions, where we were met by the apothe- cary of a native regiment, who conducted us to his house, and treated us with great kindness, and then proposed that we should pay a visit to the Rao, whom he represented to be particularly partial to Europeans. On our way to the palace, we discovered that the corporal had evidently been making too free with the A soldier's life m india. 151) apothecary's strong drinks, as he became quite intoxi- cated. Fortunately for our credit it was now dark. To take him into the presence of his majesty in this state was impossible ; so, after a deal of persuasion, coupled by some force, we got him detained at the gate of the palace. Here we were met by a robust native, who, on being made acquainted with the na- ture of our visit, ran off to intimate the same to his highness, and, instantly returning, ushered us into a large hall, where his majesty was sitting in state on a crimson cushion, more elevated than his chiefs, who were also seated upon cushions on either side, and be- hind him, cross-legged, like tailors. At a little dis- tance, in front of his majesty, sat a group of natives, who, every now and again, set up a shout to his praise. Chairs were brought in for our accommodation, and, after being seated, a chief, at the request of his high- ness, began to address us, and made many inquiries relative to our native country, and also about the Rao of Bhooj, if he was a good-looking man, how many wives he had, &c. At last his majesty thfew aside all reserve, and conversed with us in the most affable and agreeable manner, speaking highly of the British government, and evincing great esteem and respect for some officers, whose names he mentioned. He seemed to be about twenty years of age, with a very pleasing countenance, large brilliant eyes, and teeth nicely arranged, and as white as snow. It is the custom, on a visit of this description, not to leave until you obtain permission to do so ; but, as it seemed evident to me that his highness was in- clined to detain us till morning, I intimated my fear of the boat sailing without us. The hint was in- stantly taken, and the usual present or token of leave 160 A soldier's life in INDIA. to depart handed to each of us — viz., a few spices on the leaf of a tree. The conductor kneeled on one knee and kissed his majesty's hand, a ceremony at which he laughed very heartily, and we made our exit. On getting into the street, we found the corporal lying fast asleep. He was roused up, and we proceeded on board, taking the apothecary with us, to whom the conductor gave a present for his kind- ness. Port-bunder resembles Bhooj in a great mea- sure, being strongly walled in, with the palace, a large white building, towering above all the other houses. The apothecary had no sooner left us than a favour- able breeze sprung up, and twenty-four hours more brought us to Maundiavie, after being fourteen days on the water ; so that by the time we reached our station we had far exceeded the month's leave. How- ever, the cause of delay was easily explained, to the satisfaction of the commanding officer. Towards the close of the year 1838, our company was ordered off, to join the army in Affghanistan, under Sir John Kean, and 1 was sent to Bombay, and subsequently appointed garrison sergeant-major at Surat. I lost no time in getting myself equipped in my new uniform, and embarked for my destination. Here I encountered some severe weather, and our crazy old craft leaked dreadfully. To add to our misery, it was crowded with native passengers, men, women, and children, who lay about in their usual helpless state, yelling and crying most lamentably. I saw nothing for it but to lend a helping hand, and my cook boy (or man, I should say ; but all servants are called boys there), followed my example, and we set to work, and assisted in baling out the water, which is accomplished by a trough placed across the vessel, A soldier's life in ixdia. 161 into which buckets are handed from below and emptied, pumps being out of the question. Notwith- standing all our efforts to keep down the water, it continued to gain upon us rapidly. I was in the act of beginning to throw a portion of the cargo over- board, when the tendell (captain) begged of me to desist, saying that he was in hopes of being able to make a place of safety directly. This he fortunately accomplished ; and, after some difficulty, we were all safely landed on the beach, nothing the worse, save a wet skin. Here I was detained some days while they were patching and repairing the old craft. This completed, and the weather having settled down, we again set sail, but without a single native passenger, as they all preferred taking the road, rather than again trust their lives on salt water. We were overtaken by another gale, which made me sincerely wish that I had fol- lowed their example. But we ultimately reached the mouth of the Taptee, where I got into a small boat, and proceeded up the river to Surat, a distance of about twenty miles. After landing, I was accidentally met by the sergeant- major of a native regiment, and an overseer of public works, who greeted me with a hearty welcome ; for, be it understood, Europeans are at once on the most intimate terms wherever they meet in this country. They conducted me to my new quarters, which I found to be commodious, and situated inside the castle. We then repaired to the overseer's house, where we passed a most happy and agreeable night, and, next morning, I reported my arrival to the fort adjutant, and commenced my duties, which proved to be of a light and easy nature. My attention was next p2 162 A soldier's life in INDIA. turned to the making of improvements upon my house. The ground in front I laid out in the form of a gar- den, which proved a source of great amusement to me. I was laughed at on making the first attempt, as the ground was composed of nothing but the rubbish of bricks and mortar. This I had removed, and good earth substituted, and, in the course of a few months, the front of my quarters were adorned with beautiful flowers and shrubs, cucumbers and melons grew in at my windows, and ripened upon the floor. The fence consisted of a bamboo railing, thickly interwoven with creepers, which formed a beautiful pea-green hedge, intermixed with pretty little red flowers, and a bower of the same shaded the passage leading into my house, so that my little garden, which was at first laughed at, now became the admiration of all. Surat is situated in a low- lying fertile plain, on the south bank of the Taptee, so that there is little of it seen from the river, save the castle, which stands on the shore, and some buildings that line the bank. On the land side this immense city is encompassed with a brick wall, round which a person cannot walk in less time than three hours; but there are still portions of an inner wall standing, which seems at one time to have formed the boundary of the city. The castle is divided from the town by a trench, with a small green or esplanade in front, comprising a plot occupied by the English church. In the centre of the town the streets are narrow, and the houses crowded together; the larger sort, however, have flat roofs, where the in- habitants may walk of an evening, and enjoy the cool breeze. In the suburbs there are many splendid villas, occupied by both Europeans and natives. The cemeteries are situated beyond the walls. That A soldier's life m india. 163 of the Dutch attracts particular attention, as it con- tains many splendid tombs of enormous size, which denote that this people— though now extinct — must have commanded wealth and power in Surat. The inhabitants of this city support no hospital for human beings, but, strange to say, the Hindoos maintain an extensive establishment of this nature for sick or maimed animals, from an elephant to the vermin that infest the human frame, and they have even been known to hire beggars off the streets to sleep within its walls, so as the vermin might feed upon them. When Europeans get tired of an old horse, dog, or any other domestic animal, the Hindoos voluntarily assume the care of it, and place it in this house, which is full of infirm, decrepid cows, sheep, dogs, hens, pigeons, &c. I was annoyed by two dogs that my predecessor had left behind him. Notwithstand- ing all my efforts to expel them from the house, they seemed determined to make good their quarters. I threatened on several occasions to shoot them. This came to the ears of the natives, and two men came in one day and carried them off to the hospital. Two large flag- staffs stand upon the ramparts of the castle, one for the British and another for the Nabob, on which flags are hoisted on Sundays, and all great days. People of the Banian caste are numerous in Surat. Ttiey are all obliged, every morning, after washing and bathing, to have a kind of seal impressed on their forehead by an inferior Brahmin — a few of whom sit on the river side under the castle, where crowds of people resort to bathe. Men, women, and children enter the river indiscriminately, but they usually wear as much clothing (especially the females) in the water as out of it. After bathiup-. the women ex- 164 A soldier's life m india. change their wet clothes for dry ones publicly on the shore, but with such dexterity that the most curious observer can see nothing inconsistent with decency. They then proceed to the Brahmin, who dips his thumb into some red colour, and impresses it on the forehead of the women. The person thus signed and consecrated for the day, gives the Brahmin a handful of rice, and then, with her wet clothes in her hand, returns home ; but the poorer class of females, who seem to have only one dress, retire to some convenient spot, where they wrap rags about their nakedness while they spread their wet clothes in the sun, and re- main by them until they dry. I had not been many weeks in Surat when I re- ceived several additions to my pay, one of which was twenty rupees a month for acting as bazaar clerk. I now began to think that I might, with discretion, have a pony. This was no sooner known than many were brought for my inspection ; but I was very ill to please. At last a beautiful bay pony appeared at my door, which at once took my fancy. I was some- what surprised at the low price asked for it — viz., forty-five rupees. The money was instantly paid, and the animal put up in a small stable, which was at- tached to my house. But I soon discovered that I had not made so good a bargain as I anticipated. On riding it out for the first time, it made several at- tempts to bolt into houses as I passed though the bazaar, and it was for mounting upon the top of every horse or ass that came within its reach. Presently I met a native gentleman on horseback, on which the animal made a similar attack, and the horse reared and kicked in return, and threw the poor native heavily upon the hard road. I felt so incensed at this A soldier's life in INDIA. 165 moment that I could have shot the brute on the spot. Chagrined and embittered, I turned towards home; but on reaching the esplanade in front of the castle, nothing would induce the animal to cross the draw- bridge ; at last it reared, and came over on the top of me, but I miraculously escaped uninjured. I gave it several trials after this, but all to no purpose; so I resolved to dispose of it at any price. This I found to be a difficult matter, as none would offijr a price without a trial, and its faults were always detected. I ultimately found a purchaser, who was, like myself, struck with its beauty, and regardless of its faults, although they were not hid from him. When it was led out of the castle gate, I felt as if I had got rid of the greatest nuisance ever I was brought in contact with. I afterwards bought a shigram, a kind of coach usually drawn by two bullocks, and which is much used in India. They are commodious in travelling, particularly by night, as they can be closed up so as to keep out the night air, and two persons may sleep in one as comfortable as in their own bed. We had the benefit of missionaries in this city, two brothers, named Fyvie, truly pious men, whose labours of love, in preaching and circulating the gospel in the native tongue among the benighted Indians, were highly praiseworthy, but with what success I am not prepared to say. One thing, how- ever, is certain, they were a blessing to the European community. Public worship was performed in their own house every Sabbath evening, and a more devout little party than that which used to congregate there I have never witnessed, either before or since, compris- ing men of all ranks, from the commandant of the 166 A soldier's life in INDIA. garrison down to such as myself. But while within the sacred walls of the mission house, rank or position in society seemed to be forgotten, as all appeared humble and penitent suppliants for Divine grace. A chapel was at this time in course of erection, by public subscription, under the superintendence of one of the missionaries, who fortunately possessed some knowledge of architecture; and, strange to say, im- mediately after completing his work, his spirit took its flight to that God whose cause he had earnestly espoused for upwards of eighteen years in India. His remains were interred at the side of the chapel, amidst a most solemn and impressive funeral service. It was very striking to see the widow, covered with black crape, bearing her bereavement with a degree of resignation and Christian fortitude such as can only be expected from one who feels confident that the dear friend departed has earned for himself a home in heaven, and rejoices that he has gone there to await her coming. I may add that the surviving brother was not left to labour alone, as two young missionaries had arrived ere this, and with combined effbrts they began more earnestly than ever to educate the young. This, in my humble view of the matter, is the most judicious course to pursue. Give them an education, and they will begin by and by to inquire after that wonderful book, the Bible, of their own accord, and search and judge for themselves. One of their converts died during my time. They were desirous of giving him a Christian burial, but the Hindoos carried off the body in spite of them, and burned it. I was fortunate enough to gain the good opinion of A soldier's life in INDIA. 167 the natives at Surat, many of whom treated me with great kindness and respect. I could enter any shop in that large city, and get whatever I wanted, without money ever being called in question; but of course they would call at my house for it at their own con- venience. They are honest in their dealings, but, like all other people, they are desirous of obtaining a high price for their goods. Acts of theft are of rare occurrence, even amongst the poorer classes; and I can assert that my door was never locked night or day; indeed, in the warm season it usually stood open all night. After being about two years at Surat, I was sent to the Presidency for the purpose of being invalided, from causes which it is needless here to explain. On arriving at Bombay, curiosity induced me to go out to Momba Devee's tank, to see if the devotee bearing the flowerpot upon his hand was still there, and, to my surprise, I found him in the same position as he was when I first arrived in the country. Time seemed to have made little or no change on his person. I accosted him thus. "Well, old fellow, you are still here!" "Yes," he said, dryly, "where would you have me to be?" "I would have you to go to Europe with me," I added, " where the people will give lacks of rupees to see you." " Well," he replied, "if Europeans are so fond to see me, why don't you give me a rupee?" In the month of January, 1841, I appeared before the Board, and was awarded a pension, agreeably to the regulations of the service, with my choice, as is usual, either to remain in the country, or return to Europe. I preferred the latter, and subsequently applied to Government, through the town major, for 168 A soldier's life in INDIA. leave to proceed by the overland route. The follow- ing is a copy of the letter in reply : — MILITARY DEPARTMENT. Bombay Castle, 2Qth January, 1841. Sir, I am directed to acknowledge the receipt of your letter of the 23d instant, and to inform you that the Honour- able the Governor in Council sanctions Sergeant-Major T. Quinney proceeding overland to England on the first proximo. The Military Paymaster at the Presidency has been authorised to pay passage money on his account at the rate of the invalids of the season, £23 15s., at one shilling and elevenpence per rupee. I have the honour to be, &c., (Signed,) E. M. W. Major Acting Secretary to Government. To the Town Major. With a copy of the above letter in my hand, I pro- ceeded to the pay office, and received the sum men- tioned, it being the amount allowed for my passage in a sailing vessel, and I accordingly embarked on board of one of the Honourable Company's steamers, for Suez, at the head of the Red Sea. A week or so brought us within sight of the Arabian coast, consist- ing of mountains of sand and rock, without a green blade to enliven the scene. A few days more, and we reached Aden, where we were detained about twenty-four hours taking in a supply of coals. I went ashore, and passed the night with some friends belong- ing to a company of artillery which were stationed there. But I find it would be superfluous on my part to delineate this expeditious and most interest- ing route, as that has already been repeatedly done by individuals much more competent for the task, so I will pass on with little observation. A soldier's life in INDIA. 169 After entering the Red Sea, a lady, who was returning home to England with her three children, sent for me, and requested that I would be kind enough to assist her on the voyage, and take charge of her two boys, to which I readily consented. She had two female servants, but the one seemed to care for nothing but the £50 which she was to receive for the passage, and the other was perfectly useless from sea sickness. On arriving at Suez, we had just time to get some refreshments in the hotel, when we were called upon to set out on our journey across the de- sert. The lady was accommodated with an old coach, which was drawn by two horses and a camel. It broke down several times, and gave her a great deal of annoyance, and me some trouble. The gen- tlemen and myself were mounted upon asses, and the ladies were seated in chairs slung between two of these hardy animals. Forty-eight hours brought us to the ancient city of Cairo, where we all repaired to Waghorn's hotel, and got well refreshed — which we stood much in need of. One of my eyes was fear- fully inflamed, but, on bathing it well with water — a thing not to be obtained in the desert — I got imme- diate relief. We then proceeded, on asses, to the Nile, and embarked in small boats for Alexandria, which city we reached, partly by this magnificent river, and partly by canal. We lost no time in em- barking on board the steamer Great Liverpool, and, after touching at Malta and Gibraltar, we reached England, the whole passage only occupying thirty- eight days. We soon discovered, to our chagrin and disappointment, that we were not yet to get ashore. The quarantine law would not admit of this ; so we were kept feasting our eyes upon the Q 170 A soldier's life in INDIA, shore on which we were most anxious to be landed in safety for nine days. Previous to the expiry of this- time, the lady before mentioned sent for me to her cabin, and paid all expenses in connection with my passage to England, which amounted to about £60, so that I retained to the good the £23 15s. which I received as passage-money at Bombay. This act of benevolence, together with other marks of kind- ness which she showed me on the way, has left an impression on my mind not easily to be erased. All that I did for her was but very trifling ; indeed, I have ever since regretted that I did not do more. She was a highly accomplished and most amiable lady, devotedly attached to her children, and seemed regardless of any expense, so that it added to their happiness and comfort. We landed at Southampton on the 19th of March^ from whence I hastened to London, and repaired to the East India House, and got matters arranged re- garding my pension, &c. I then took lodgings, and sent for a tailor, and had myself fitted out in first- rate style. This accomplished, I went on board of a steamboat about to sail for Leith. On my arrival there I took the coach to North Berwdck, and was ultimately put down in the street of my native town, where I stood looking about me for some time, like a man bewildered. The houses appeared much smaller, and the streets narrower, than I formerly imagined them to be; and the spire at the Cross, which I once looked upon as a pyramid for height, now seemed to be the most diminutive thing of the kind I had ever seen. A crowd of idlers gathered round the coach as usual, but none seemed to recognise me, and I recog- 171 ulsed no one. My first object was to find out my relations. I dreaded to make the necessary inquiry, as I had some misgivings as to my father being alive. I at last asked the question, and was gratified to learn that the family still occupied the same house which they did when I left them. My sudden and unexpected visit created great excitement. My poor old father held on by me as if determined never again to let me out of his grasp. The first week after my arrival was spent in visiting relations and friends, and all was mirth and jollity, on account of the lost son being found; but when this subsided I began to feel like & fish out of water, and regretted having left India, Indeed, experience has since taught me that all soldiers who have served any length of time in India would much rather be back to it than remain in their own country. I have always been led to consider the profession of a soldier as one of the most important in the oivilised world. He is virtually the protector of the institutions of his country, and, as can be proved by numerous instances, their only dependence in the hour of danger. If the land is threatened with in- Tasion by some tyrannical or ambitious foe, it is to the soldier that the inhabitants look for protection. If it is convulsed by internal commotion, the laws disobeyed and violated, and the civil force over- powered, his services are again called into requisition to restore peace, and strengthen the hands of the ma- gistrate in punishing the guilty, and protecting the innocent ; so that the soldier, though a man of war, is also a keeper of the peace, consequently, he cannot be respected by those whose business it is to break it. Ail right thinking men can come to no other conclu- 172 A soldier's life in INDIA. sion than that the profession is both honourable and indispensable, forming a noble field for aspiring am- bition. The discipline and equipment of the British army (both Queen's and Company's), at the present day, are the admiration of all ; and, I am happy to add, that the comforts and improvements that have been introduced into the service since I first joined it, are both numerous and important, holding out an induce- ment for a better class of men to embrace the pro- fession. That every laudable eflPort should be made to im- prove their moral and intellectual character, none will attempt to dispute ; and, as the humble sphere in which I moved served to afi'ord me many opportunities both of witnessing and feeling the effects of the want of attention to this important matter, I am the more desirous to see them carefully cultivated. Much has been done in this direction of late, and it is difficult to point out anything new. To quote the words of a let- ter from an old companion — " One improvement has so followed another since you left the service, that there is now nothing left undone that the soldier can reasonably ask for." But that more has been done will be seen from the following general order, extracted from an Indian newspaper : — " 9th September. — With reference to, and in continuation of, general orders, dated the 25th of March, 1848, his Excellency the Commander-in-Chief, with the sanction of the most noble the Governor-General, is pleased to publish the following ex- tract : — Paras. 5 to 8. From a notification, issued by the honour- able the Lieutenant-Governor of the north-western provinces, regarding the modified arrangements of the civil engineering at Roorkee. "Para. 5. — Second Department.— European non-commissioned A soldier's life in INDIA. 173 officers and soldiers are required, previous to admission, to prove, by examination, their proficiency in reading and writ- ing, arithmetic as far as vulgar fractions, elementary geometry, mensuration, and simple plan drawing, and none are admissible without a satisfactory certificate of character. Passed candi- dates will be nominated about the month of October of each year, and will join the college in the mouth of January fol- lowing. " Para. 6. — When not furnished with carriage at the public ex- pense, they will receive travelling allowance to Roorkee at the rate chargeable for one camel, or one two-bullock hackray, per man, travelling ten miles per diem, and six days per week, a double allowance being granted to married men. "Para. 7.— They will be on probation at the college for six months, during which time they will receive their regimental pay and allowance, and the same advantages as with their corps, or the established equivalent in money. If approved at the end of this period, they will then receive the staff allowance of an assistant overseer in the department of public works, and re- main under instruction at the college till the close of the annual term in the month of December, when, if their conduct con- tinues to be satisfactory, they will be drafted off to their ap- pointed duties, according to the requirements of the public service. During the time they remain at Roorkee, they will be under the command of the officer who fills the post of principal of the college." It will be seen, from the above general order, that soldiers, under ordinary circumstances, are not sup- posed to march more than ten miles per day ; and as they are all exempted from carrying that unseemly appendage, a knapsack, marching in India is com- paratively easy. Young men have every opportunity to qualify themselves for Roorkee college at the regi- mental school. An assistant overseer, who passes through this establishment, enters upon a progressive salary of eight pounds per month, with one pound for horse allowance, should the nature of his duties re- quire the use of one.