SIEGI IN PEKING THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES MARY PORTER GAMEWELL And Her Story of the Siege in Peking A. H. TUTTLE NEW YORK: RATON ft MAINS CINCINNATI: JENNINGS & GRAHAM Copyright, 1907, by EATON & MAINS CONTENTS Chapter. Page PREFACE v I. A MISSIONARY IN PREPARATION 1 n. FROM AMERICA TO PEKING 13 in. THE GOSPEL m CHINA 23 IV. HOME IN PEKING 30 V. IN THE PEKING COMPOUND 41 VI. SCHOOL WORK 53 Vn. UNBOUND FEET 65 VIIL FIRST COUNTRY TOUR 73 IX. COUNTRY EVANGELISM 83 X. MARRIAGE 99 XI. UP THE YANGTSE 104 XII. CHUNGKING 112 XIII. EVIL OMENS 120 XIV. CHUNGKING RIOT 127 XV. DOWN THE YANGTSE 139 XVI. ASBURY CHURCH, PEKING 146 XVII. PEKING SUNDAY SCHOOL 152 XVIII. LETTERS TO FRIENDS 158 MRS. GAMEWELL'S STORY OF THE SIEGE IN PEKING XIX. THE GATHERING STORM 185 XX. REFUGE IN THE METHODIST COMPOUND 195 XXI. MASSACRE OF BARON VON KETTELER 207 XXII. MARCH TO THE BRITISH LEGATION 212 XXIII. IN SIEGE 226 XXIV. ORGANIZATION 238 XXV. INCIDENTS 251 XXVI. EDICTS, CABLFXJRAMS, AND MESSAGES 258 XXVII. RELIEF.. . 268 XXVIII. CORONATION. . ... 282 103953 PREFACE Mary Porter GamewelPs missionary career (1871 -1906) covers the heroic age of the Woman's For- eign Missionary Society of the Methodist Episcopal Church in China. She was one of the first mission- aries whom the Society sent to that country. Her marriage eleven years later did not in any measure interrupt her work, for having no children, she continued full service, broken only by an occasional vfsit to her native land. And during these home visits, which were supposed to be periods of rest, she was tireless in the use of her tongue and pen for the great cause to which she had consecrated her life. In 1906 her name was enrolled on the scroll of the immortals "who were slain for the Word of God, and for the testimony which they held." It was during the last years of her life that those great events occurred that culminated in the aston- ishing revolution in the attitude of the imperial government of China toward modern scholarship and Christian civilization, and which was the begin- ning of a new era in missionary work in that coun- try, which until then presented a stubborn and murderous resistance to the gospel. We owe it to the memory of the heroines, who, vi PREFACE amid great perils and immeasurable sacrifices, pio- neered the frontiers of heathendom, to record the story while it is fresh in our memories. And we owe it to the church of the future to furnish it with the answers to the questions which a Christian- ized China is sure to ask: "Who wrought this miracle, and by what means was it done?" We should do what we can to perpetuate the inspiration of those early days into all subsequent ages. The best way to do this is not to wait for some future historian to tabulate the general facts, and study their causes and relations. Philosophical history is not half so vital nor truthful as the personal story of individual actors in that history. As Aristotle has said, "a thing is more than the sum of all its parts." There must be added what he calls the "ousia," its innermost reality, its essence, which makes this sum a thing. So the best way to know events is to know the individuals who lived in them and made them. Even doctrines are best understood in that way. The best way to know Christianity is to know Christ and the apostles. To feel the pulse of the church's life, we must touch human hearts, hear their moans and their songs, become familiar with their daily thoughts, and walk with them along the homely pathway of duty things too commonplace to de- mand a page in formal history, and yet things that make the very ousia of life. For this reason, we have consented to collate the material which Mrs. Gamewell has left, and as near- PREFACE vii ly as possible construct an autobiographical sketch of one woman whose life is fairly representative of many others who prepared the way of the coming of the Lord in China. There have been loaned us for this purpose journals, personal letters, and many articles prepared by her for the press. Among this material are two things of great historic value, which have not been seen, even by her inti- mate friends. One is a journal of the Chungking riot of 1886, which was written while she was a prisoner in the yamen of the magistrate during that tragic event. This journal was fortunately pre- served uninjured by the Boxers who destroyed our Mission property in Peking in 1900. The second thing is her own story of the siege in Peking, pre- pared by her for the press, from copious notes which she had made during the siege. Fully three fourths of this volume is from her pen. She was herself a gifted writer, having a literary quality in her style, which makes the facts she records quiver with life. And the facts themselves are rich in color, varied incident, and wide meanings. Here we have poetry, romance, tragedy, and religion ; and amid it all we discern the presence of Him who rules the centuries, doing the work of eternity in guiding one of his trusting children day by day, along ways and by deeds of which the world takes no heed, but which resistlessly are bringing his kingdom to earth. CHAPTER I A MISSIONARY IN PREPARATION Mary Q. Porter, who one day was to become Mrs. Frank D. Gamewell, was the second child in a family of three daughters and two sons. Her parents were born in England, but she came to them in Allegheny City, Pennsylvania, on the twen- tieth day of October, 1848, some years after they had made the United States their home. Every positive personality, such as hers, has its spring, like the River Jordan, in some Hermon, which pours out its crystal streams in the fountains of Dan and Banias. Its character is modified by its tributaries and the country through which it passes, but its elemental capacities, which are ever present, are best studied at its sources. Her father, Nathaniel Porter, came of an old English family in Stratf ord-on-Avon ; and the name frequently appears in the annals of that town back to the days of Shakespeare. The father of Nathaniel was a man of strong religious character and a master of a college preparatory school in his native town ; and his son received a most careful intellectual as well as religious training. After he came of age he was given a generous 1 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL sum of money and came to America, where he met Miss Maria Killingley, who had come here with her widowed father in 1833. They were married at Allegheny City, Pennsylvania, in 1845, and fifteen years later settled in Davenport, Iowa, which was their home for many years. Mr. Porter was a gentleman by birth and by culture. He had a mind alert and acute, was an exceptionally gifted con- versationalist, and was widely informed on all the great subjects that were agitating the minds of men. Had nature added to his other native quali- ties the genius for affairs, his daughter's career probably would have been very different from that which is here recorded. Mrs. Porter was the daughter of Henry Killing- ley and Maria Whittaker. She was born near Not- tingham, England, and remembered how, when a little girl, she "often gathered daisies in the shadow of Nottingham Castle." Her mother died when she was an infant, and her father brought her to the United States, intending to make this country his home. But his heart drew him back to where the wife of his youth lay buried. His daughter, however, had no longing for the land of her early sorrow, and she decided to remain where she could make her own career unhampered by ancient family traditions. She, however, had been well born, and her past, far more than she knew, was a force which carried her to her destiny. She came of a people of sterling worth, in whom conscience was the law of life, and who placed duty infinitely abore gain. A MISSIONARY IN PREPARATION 3 She was one who would not weakly succumb to difficulties but would bravely meet and, if possible, master them. During her residence in Allegheny City she be- came intensely interested in the study of a case of illness in her family; and with the generous approval of Mr. Porter, hired a housekeeper to care for her home while she pursued a course of study in the Woman's Medical College in Phila- delphia, from which she graduated with honor in 1859. Afterward she studied Homeopathy and began the practice of medicine in that school, mak- ing Davenport, Iowa, her home. It was a brave thing for a woman in those days to enter a profes- sion which heretofore had been monopolized by men, and which was popularly supposed would de- tract from the charm of femininity of character. But she triumphed, demonstrating in her own per- son what is now everywhere accepted, that every noble calling is consistent with every womanly quality. Mrs. Porter was one of the foremost women of Iowa in the organization of women for the relief of suffering during the Civil War and the troublous times immediately subsequent. She was intimately associated with Mrs. Wittenmeyer in the organiza- tion of the Soldiers' Orphans' Home of Iowa, which is now located at Davenport. Thus Mary was born and bred in an atmosphere of intellectuality and conscientious endeavor. She grew up in the con- viction that a woman's horizon was not to be 4 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL bounded by the four walls of her home : that world- wide views really sweetened and enriched the home life. We have not been able to gather many inci- dents with which to construct the story of her child- hood. There are no traditions of any singular precocity, prematurely revealing her exceptional career. The aureole of the martyr spirit was not suggested in the rosy-faced, happy child of those early years. In all her correspondence, we have found but a single allusion to it, and it was written May 10, 1906, a few months before her transla- tion: "I am going down town to take a snapshot of the old Fifth Street house. It is an old ramshackle now, in a street taken up by the railroad. It used to stand in the shadow of great trees and in a street filled with homes of Davenport's best people. And though the railroad was there, open green and Court House Square, full of trees and covered with grass, met the eye over the single track. You know that the elevated way fills much of the street now and cuts off the green expanse on the south. "I started for China from that house. On the floor of that house I sat out the night in miserable wonder over a hurt delivered by one I had revered, and held on when my inexperience could not see how He was justified. "That holding on saved the day for me and brought results which shall abide until I see Him and am satisfied. How plainly the way appears when we look on it from the heights to which it A MISSIONARY IN PREPARATION 5 led! How one quivers to see the turning points and crossroads at which it would have been so easy to have lost the way! There God's constraining power held, and we only just let him, so bewildered and occupied within our limited horizon that we could not see that he was doing anything at all! "I ran to that house the day we heard at school that southern guns had fired on Fort Sumter. From there I went into the excited and illuminated street the night that the country rejoiced over the fall of Vicksburg, and from the windows of that house I looked with sinking heart at flags flying at half-mast because Lincoln was dead dead by an assassin's hand. "Yes, the days spent in that old house were, for me, full of growing pains." Her occasional reference in conversation to that period of her life was more like the fragrance of the marigold, heavily laden with the spirit of the past rather than with definite memories. The secret of her almost unbroken silence concerning those years was probably the fact that the child had a premoni- tion that the future was to bring her into a life in which she would hold a place of conspicuous and far-reaching usefulness. The thoughtful girl was ever on the lookout, inquiring what might be the work to which she was destined. She was living more in the tilings to come than in the immediate present. Nat that her childhood was unhappy, for it was sweet with innocence, culture, and love; but to her outreaching mind it was the enchanted stream 8 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL bearing her ever down the years to where the castle of her dreams stood, all glorious. A companion of those early days writes of her and another schoolmate, who with herself made a trio of intimate friendships in work and play, which continued on into mature years. She says : "Mat- tie and I recognized that she and I were kindred spirits, and that Mary was one with us, but with a difference. She loved fun and frolic as well as did we, and could play a full part; but we felt that at the same time, with all her love for sport, there was something more : a gentle seriousness and earnestness of purpose that were a restraining in- fluence whenever our lighter spirits might seem to carry us beyond the bounds of innocent mirth or strict propriety. But any rebuke from her would come in the guise of gentle effort to turn our thoughts toward something safer and better. She was fond of singing, and often the diversion would be a call to the piano ; and the singing of hymns would close the enjoyment of a happy evening spent in one or another of our homes." One of these two companions of Mary testified to her recognition of the more earnest and religious ele- ments of her character by impulsively asking her mother : "Why is it that Mary is always good and I am sometimes bad?" "After their dear schoolmate had confessed Christ and united with the church these two young comrades noted that the desire that they too should share with her the joy she had found was manifest A MISSIONARY IN PREPARATION 7 in many loving ways in all their intercourse to- gether, while in other things she was still the same bright, merry, fun-loving companion as before." She occasionally told of how, when a very little girl, her imagination transformed the chairs in her room into benighted heathen, and how she became a missionary, destroying their idols and bringing to them the light of the gospel. But she did not tell that which we are curious to know: what awakened this spirit in her heart. It is doubtful whether she herself remembered what it was; and it is almost certain that the unknown sower of the precious seed never knew what he had done. What a surprise it will be to him when the sheaves are gathered ! We have the testimony of her own lips that in those days she was peculiarly sensitive to the sights and sounds of Nature. One Sunday morning in the summer of 1902, while outing on the coast of Maine, we took a walk together two miles or more inland to attend service in the Methodist church in the nearest village. On our return, in order to protect ourselves from the heat of the noonday sun, we made a detour from the main road through a dense forest, in the deep silence of which we could hear voices which could not be heard under the open sky. Mrs. Gamewell asked me if I could under- stand what God was saying in this old cathedral of nature. I replied: "I hear the voices; please articulate them for me." She began with, "All nature is an interpreter of the spiritual realm," and 8 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL continued to talk till every leaf and stone, every speck of sunshine and every shadow seemed vocal spoken words of God. When we passed out into the open sunshine I asked her when she first became conscious of this identity of Nature and the eternal Word; and she answered, "From my childhood." This faculty, then, was in her a gift rather than the result of culture. Its basis was an original tem- perament, closely allied to that of a poet, a delicate sensibility of organization which makes the human heart a living jEolian harp, catching and render- ing every rustle of Nature. There were two things that occurred in those years that powerfully affected her character and determined her career : the Civil War and her con- version. She was but thirteen years of age when the scream of Bellona terrified the country. And during the most impressible period of a girl's life, when the observant soul is inquiring for the mean- ing of things occurring within and without, the entire land was absorbed in the tremendous conflict raging between the North and the South. She saw regiments of lorwans, in which were many of her personal friends, marching away to the music of fife and drum for the field of carnage. She heard the sobs of many mothers and wives who had given their dear ones, an immeasurable sacrifice for their country's honor. She was still a girl when the war closed; and she saw battle-worn veterans return- ing home, with their ranks decimated, and in many instances almost annihilated. But she was old A MISSIONARY IN PREPARATION 9 enough to understand that this was the price paid for two things: the nation's unity, and the free- dom of all its citizens; and it was borne in upon her that this sacrifice was none too great for so glorious a consummation. In those days the natural instinct of patriotism was intensified until it became with her a passion. A feature of that passion was its breadth. While she dearly loved her home city and her state, her love widened out, its heat increasing with the vol- ume of its flame, till it enwrapped the whole land. So charged was her heart with this holy passion, that when she rose, as we have frequently seen her, and stretching out her hand, ejaculated, "My country !" it sent an electric thrill to all who heard her. It was during the war, when she was but fifteen years of age, that she publicly consecrated her life to God, and was received in the Methodist Episco- pal Church in Davenport, Iowa. There was nothing phenomenal or spectacular in that experi- ence. She often spoke of far more apparent changes in the unfolding of her divine life, when she passed crises in later years, than that that oc- curred when she first confessed Christ. The proba- bility is that she was an accepted child of God be- fore that time, living a life of prayer and child- like innocence. Her so-called conversion was but little more than an open confession a stage in the normal development of her spiritual character. It was perfectly natural that the sentiments awakened 10 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL in her heart by the great national conflict should impress themselves on her understanding of her spiritual life. Whether or not she was aware of the process at the time, the fact was shaping itself in her mind, of which she afterward became fully conscious, that God's kingdom was wider than the bounds of any church or country, that everywhere men should be brought into the liberty of this kingdom, and finally, that the soldiers of Christ should hesitate at no sacrifice to secure this end. Thus the missionary thought lay like the seed of God's truth in her heart. It was a potent factor in her spirit long before she discovered its bearing on her lifework, for which God was preparing her. Mary Porter studied in the public schools in the several cities where she had lived during her child- hood, and was in the High School of Davenport, Iowa, when the Orphans' Home was transferred to that city. When she was nearly eighteen years of age she left the school to take a position of teacher in the Home. After teaching for one year, she re- turned to the High School, and by her indomitable industry not only graduated with the class from which she had been absent a full year, but took such high rank and so impressed the principal, who had been elected head of the Grandview Academy, Grandview, Iowa, that he offered her the position of teacher of Latin, physiology and English gram- mar in that school. In a letter written many years later she speaks of that year of doubled toil thus : "I used to pray for such help when crowded to A MISSIONARY IN PREPARATION 11 desperation in my last year's work before gradua- tion. I felt justified in crowding under the circum- stances, and I had a right to expect God to bless my efforts, and he did. I used to ask him to help me with geometry, Latin, chemistry, and everything in which I was likely to stagger from overwork. I have sat down to my desk so weary and discour- aged with everything that I could have almost cried ; but in the extremity I would remember God, and have felt his unmistakable help; and so the puzzles disappeared and I wondered where I found them. Now, in those days I could not have told my faith, words would have stuck in my throat; in- deed, I was in great measure unconscious of the faith I exerted. In my extremity I called upon him for things I had not heard men say we might expect from God, and God himself taught me to come again and again until my faith strengthened, and I naturally looked to him without being driven to it." After graduation, in 1868, she accepted the posi- tion offered her in the Grandview Academy, and taught there for more than two years, continuing her studies preparatory for a regular college course. Though but twenty years of age, she was made superintendent of the Sunday school and did much religious work among the students. While there her thought was turned to the foreign missionary work; and at the close of the year she resigned her position in the Academy and accepted a call from the Woman's Foreign Missionary Society to 12 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL devote her life to the cause of Christ in China. After leaving Grandview she taught several months in Davenport schools, during which time she made her final arrangements to go to China, and left her home for that purpose October 9, 1871. Hearing that there was another Mary Porter in the city of Peking, to which she was destined, she decided, in order to avoid confusion, to place a middle letter in her name. What shall it be? Q is the initial letter of Quo, what? Let it be Q. Henceforth till her marriage her name stands Mary Q. Porter. CHAPTER II FKOM AMERICA TO PEKING Mrs. Gamewell had purposed to publish a His- tory of the Peking Station of North China Mission of The Woman's Foreign Missionary Society of the Methodist Episcopal Church, and had prepared copious notes from which we extract the following: "The North China Mission of the Methodist Episcopal Church was organized the same year that gave birth to the Woman's Foreign Missionary Society (1869). In October of that year, while Bishop Kingsley was present, the Mission passed a resolution asking the bishop to appoint two single women to organize a girls' boarding school and to conduct evangelistic work among women. This re- quest was sent to the Woman's Foreign Missionary Society. The executive committee at its meeting in May, 1871, authorized the New England Branch to send to Peking Miss Maria Brown, of Mclrose, Massachusetts, and the Western Branch to send Miss Mary Porter, of Davenport, Iowa. They were accordingly appointed and instructed to go to work under the direction of the married women of the mission, Mrs. L. N. Wheeler and Mrs. H. H. Lowry. 13 14 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL "At the same meeting of the executive commit- tee Miss Beulah Woolston and Miss Sarah Wool- ston, who, under the direction of the Parent Board, had been doing missionary work in Foochow since 1859, and were now taking a well-earned rest at home in the United States, were adopted by the Woman's Foreign Missionary Society, and were instructed to continue their work in Foochow in its name and under its support. In 1871 these four women tried to make a party across the continent to San Francisco, but the Chicago fire was raging and interrupted communication, so that they were not able to make connection till Miss Porter met the others in San Francisco. In those days nothing was known by the missionary authorities in the United States about the closing of navigation dur- ing the winter between Shanghai and Tientsin. As the Misses Brown and Porter had started too late to reach North China that autumn, they went south with the Misses Woolston and spent the winter in Foochow." The following is taken from a letter of personal reminiscences written several years later : "Close on to Christmas of 1871 we two that is, Maria Brown and I sat in a room in Foochow, China. The ceiling was high and the wide, long floor was painted in stripes. A wood fire burned in the grate and a big door opened into a bathroom. When I Wanted to be alone, I went into the bath- room and put my head out of the window into the unoccupied space of the upper air. One day, with FROM AMERICA TO PEKING 15 my head out of the window, I struggled alone with a load of responsibility with which, in my youth- ful, opinionated state and crudity of spiritual de- velopment, I scorned to trouble God. Suddenly without request or thought of mine, my heart went free and a specific conviction concerning the mat- ters that troubled me seemed to flood my being with knowledge as sure as if a voice had spoken from Heaven. Thereafter no thought of those matters could cause fear or trouble of any kind. Years afterward everything turned out exactly as I was made to know that day, and was confident through all following days, they would. The experience was a sacred wonder hid in my heart, and was the beginning of a series of new and uplifting lessons concerning God's care and love, by which he made me more fit for the work which I was to do. The experience stands in vivid relief among the Provi- dences that attended the development of the school. "Miss Brown and I had been sent out to open a school for girls in Peking. What, then, were we doing away down south in Foochow? At the time of our outgoing the Woman's Foreign Missionary Society was only two years old, and the women of that Society did not know as much as they do now. They did not know that the approach to Tientsin, the port of Peking, freezes, and that vessels do not run north from Shanghai after freezing weather sets in. So they sent us out, to land in Shanghai after the last vessel going north had departed. But we were traveling with Miss Bculah and Miss 16 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL Sarah Woolston. They were pioneer workers among Chinese women and girls twelve years before there was a Woman's Foreign Missionary Society. They had established a school for girls in Foochow and done a wide-reaching work through the church there that endeared them to all hearts. The Misses Woolston, their work and themselves being adopted by the newly organized Woman's Foreign Mis- sionary Society, were now returning to China from a well-earned vacation. They took us with them to Foochow, to wait there for the opening of navi- gation, in the spring. Thus the same Providence which had given us raw recruits the high privilege of going to meet the new life in the new field in the companionship of such veterans as the devoted and talented Misses Woolston gave us also all the ad- vantages of a winter spent in an old mission, where we could learn lessons from such successful and established work as that developed by Miss Beulah and Miss Sarah Woolston. Though one day, when it was told us that one of the pupils had rolled downstairs and knocked out a tooth in her progress, and that Miss Sarah had picked up the child and the tooth, put the latter into its place, and band- aged the child's mouth shut until the tooth had grown fast again, we wondered if we should ever be equal to the exigencies of school work in China." While in Foochow the two young women studied the characters and principles of the Chinese lan- guage, but made no effort to acquire the pronunci- ation of the South which differed so radically from FROM AMERICA TO PEKING 17 that of the North where they were to labor. As soon as navigation opened they started for Peking, where they arrived April 6, 1872. We have no account of the trip written at the time; but in 1905 Mrs. Gamewell published an article in The Chautauquan, in which she describes the journey in part as seen in the perspective of thirty-three years : "Our course lies northward from Shanghai over troubled seas till we pass between the rocky pro- montory of Shantung and the point of Port Arthur. The Gulf of Pechili about the promontory of Shan- tung is one of the roughest bits of water to be found, and its choppy sea will usually bring to grief the best of sailors. Sailing across the gulf, our steamer anchors outside the bar which bars the entrance to the mouth of the muddy and exceed- ingly winding river Pei Ho (North River). Dur- ing neap tide a steady wind will blow the water oif the bar until there is not enough left to float even so small a vessel as the little coast steamship, so that our vessel must anchor outside and leave us tossing on the short waves of the stormy Gulf, waiting for less wind and more water, in misery remembering sympathetically the man who was so seasick that he feared he should die, and later on was afraid that he would not. "The captains of these coastwise steamers are a picturesque set soldiers of fortune, with vocabu- laries gathered from all parts of the world; and with full steam ahead and with bubbling vocabu- laries the vessel goes grinding over, while the sound 18 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL of scraping and grinding during the passage testi- fies to the fact that it has not only plowed the waves, but also the sands below. "The coast line near the mouth of the Pei Ho presents only a long stretch of mud flats. In the village of Ta Ku, on the flats, live the pilots who own and navigate a great fleet of steam tugs which serve over the bar and up the river. There is a hotel at Ta Ku, and during the summer months the people from Tientsin frequently resort there for the sea air, but in recent years the greater part of the foreign population seek Pei Tai Ho, which lies eastward near Shan Hai Kuan, and is becoming known as the Newport of China. Commanding the entrance to the river are the Ta Ku forts, which repulsed the British and French fleets in 1859, but were taken the following year by a rear attack. They now lie in ruin, battered and dismantled. Having crossed the bar the little vessel steams around the many bends by which the Pei Ho makes its way to the sea, frequently running aground and making some of the curves by deliberately pushing her nose into the mud bank and being pulled around by cables. "Though Tientsin lies but thirty miles inland from the sea, it is usually a day's trip by the crook- ed, winding river, so that most passengers now leave the steamer at the mouth of the river and hurry on to Tientsin by the train which runs along its banks. Tientsin lies on the west bank of the Pei Ho at a point below the junction of the river with the FROM AMERICA TO PEKING 19 Grand Canal. The old city with its suburbs stretches along the river for six miles or more and up the canal an equal distance, and contains a population of over a million, though if the census were to include all those living in the houseboats swarming the river and canal for miles, the popula- tion would probably be found to be twice this number. "If you wish to reach Peking, you may now hurry on by train, but if you wish to see China, there are two ways of making the trip. One is by native houseboat to Tung Chou, which is at the head of navigation, then from Tung Chou by sedan chair, or cart, or donkey. The other mode of travel is by cart. A gentleman very soberly told us that he knew a man who left Tientsin in a cart, and with the first propelling jerk of the mules, he left his seat on the bottom of the cart and never landed there again until the cart drew up outside the walls of Peking, having been shaken about in his cart all day like a peppercorn in a continuously shaken pepper box. . "We chose the river and the houseboat. The skies were clear, the winds in our favor, and the men who were to pole, scull, and sail our little boat were in high good humor. They shoved off with shoutings that mingled with the shouts of hundreds of other boatmen, many of whom, witli poles armed with spikes and hooks, helped our boatmen pull and push away through a jam of boats that throng the river all the way from the settlement to the 20 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL native city of Tientsin and beyond. As we ap- proached the Pontoon Bridge, or Bridge of Boats, as it is often called, a clumsy barge slowly dropped from its place in a line of barges that formed the bridge. Our boat was only one of many which waited their turn to pass through the gap thus made in the bridge. A crowd of foot passengers and burden-bearers were waiting on the edge of this break in this bridge ; but they did not seem to mind the delay, so absorbed were they in the contempla- tion of the foreigners, who seemed to afford them quite as much amusement as a bear performance or a monkey show. Above the bridge we passed other bridges, and were at last out of the throng of boats and well on our way up the winding Pei Ho. As our boat swung around the various curves we were often in sight of the ruined Catholic cathedral which occupies a prominent site on the banks of the river. This cathedral was burned at the time of the Tientsin massacre in 1870. After being restored it was again destroyed in 1900. "The country between Tientsin and Tung Chou is flat and uninteresting, but in the time of stand- ing grain and full foliage, with clear skies and a fair breeze, the passage up the Pei Ho is very enjoyable. The wind filled our bamboo-slatted sail, a competent and good-natured captain held the rudder, and with the sliding panels that formed the sides of our boat taken out we reclined at our ease and listened to the purling waters and watched the green banks not far away on either side. We FROM AMERICA TO PEKING 21 tied to the bank at night and sailed away in the early gray of the succeeding mornings. The bot- tom of this river in many places lies higher than the surrounding country, and sometimes during the floods the water breaks through the banks and spreads many miles through the low-lying fields. At such times boats instead -of following the course of the river around its many curves, sail in a straight course. I have had such boat trips in which we passed over the tops of fields of kaoliang, a kind of broom corn, which stood at least ten feet high, and the villages built on land somewhat higher than the surrounding fields appeared as is- lands in the surrounding water. "At Tung Chou, twelve miles from the east gate of Peking, all boats land their passengers and unload their freight, which are transported in carts or wheelbarrows, or on mules or donkeys. Eight li from Tung Chou (a li is a third of a mile) the way to Peking leads over a famous bridge which is called the Eight Li Bridge. When the English and French marched against Peking in I860 it was the scene of one of the fiercest fights." The Rev. L. N. Wheeler and his little daughter had met Miss Porter and her companion, Miss Brown, at Tientsin, and had accompanied them up the river. From Tung Chou they rode on donkeys, a mode of conveyance so new to Miss Porter that she found it impossible to retain her scat, and was frequently cast to the ground. They, however, regarded these mishaps as interesting events which 22 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL gave color to an otherwise dull picture. The land- scape about the city is monotonous in the extreme. The somber gray walls rise fifty feet above the plain, and over the city hangs a great cloud of dust. The picture was certainly not one calculated to relieve the ache of homesickness which oppressed the heart of a young woman whose kin were on the other side of the globe. The ridiculous donkey ride probably relieved that dreadful mental strain which he alone knows who looks in the dusk of the evening upon a great crowd of foreigners who hate him and his God, and who away from all his rela- tives goes through the gates of a heathen city which henceforth he is to call "my home." At the gates the party took Peking carts to convey them in greater privacy through the narrow and treeless streets with great walls shutting from view the pri- vate residences and their surrounding gardens. At last, after almost half a year since she bade adieu to her country and loved ones, she stood at the daor of the Methodist Mission compound on Filial Piety Lane. CHAPTER III THE GOSPEL IN CHINA Miss Porter entered Peking sixty-five years after Robert Morrison, the first Protestant apostle to China, had begun his lonely work in Canton. He, however, had been hampered by governmental re- strictions and that temperamental conservatism which had preserved this great people practically unchanged through millenniums from away beyond the origin of Christianity or, possibly, that of the Jewish nation. It was seven years before he bap- tized the first native convert, and one year after his death (1834) there were but two Protestant missionaries in the empire, and the Christian Church had but three native members. Two things were required to prepare tfoe way for the kingdom of God in that land. There must first occur certain providential events to break down the external re- strictions to the gospel; and then the evangelists must find a way to let the gospel light into the minds of a people who, so far from desiring it, sincerely believed it to be a devilish wickedness, the secret of their national shame and disaster. The history of the propaganda of the faith else- where would lead us to look for great world-move- 23 24 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL ments, in which there was no conscious purpose to spread the gospel, but which would inerrantly serve that end. Egypt, Assyria, Babylon, Persia, Mace- donia, and Rome were the unconscious servants of the Almighty in the ancient days. So in modern times, nations with purposes of conquest and greed have been unwittingly the avenging sword of the Lord. It was England that became the providen- tial instrument of opening the door for the entrance of the gospel in China. In attempting to protect the interests of commerce, after the retirement of the East India Company from China, England be- came involved in what is known as the opium war, which ended in 1842 in the Treaty of Nanking, which opened five ports for free foreign trade, and incidentally threw wide open the gates for the mis- sionary. War broke out again, in which the Chi- nese government was humbled by British prowess, and another treaty was ratified in 1860 which granted the representatives of foreign governments the privilege of residence in the capital city, Peking, gave them passports to travel in all parts of China, and a guarantee that they should have protection in their religion. Thus the way was prepared for the missionary to carry his message to the very doors of the im- perial palace. The Presbyterian and the American Boards of Foreign Missions hastened at once to enter the city. Romanism had already been there for centuries. But it was not till 1869 that the Methodist Episcopal Church sent its represents- THE GOSPEL IN CHINA 25 tives to that strategic center. It was during that year that the Rev. L. N. Wheeler and the Rev. H. H. Lowry went up from Foochow "to spy out the land," and, like Caleb and Joshua, reported, "It is a goodly land, and we are well able to pos- sess it." They at once went to work with zeal to lay the foundations of what has since become one of our most conspicuous and successful missions. The New Connection brethren at Tientsin very generously loaned them for six months one of their most efficient native preachers. And they were in sympathetic touch with the other Protestant mis- sions in the city. The prohibitive barriers which the national gov- ernment had opposed to the presence and work of missionaries were broken by the force of war. It now remained for these missionaries to find a way by which to let the gospel light into the hearts of the people. The problem was not as simple as those familiar with the evangelism of the Western nations would suppose. The conditions were altogether different from those which the apostles encountered when they went out under the command, "Go ye into all the world, and preach the gospel to every creature." The Greek mind, which for centuries had dominated the thought of the world, was alert, curious, ready to examine every new thing. The Roman mind was as cosmopolite as it was imperial, believing that within every widely prevailing faith there was an element of truth ; tolerant, even when perplexed with conflicting doctrines ; asking car- 26 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL nestly, though sometimes despairingly, "What is truth?" The Jewish people scattered throughout the world had made the thoughtful mind familiar with those great principles which opened their per- fect bloom in Christ; and this ubiquitous people furnished a starting place for the evangelists. In addition to that, the Western world was exhausted. It had outgrown its ancient thought. Every mod- ern science was but a weak modification of an older and better one; every song like the ^Eneid, was an imitation of an older and nobler one like the Iliad; every pleasure was an old one exaggerated. Modern religion had become an artificial perform- ance void of all vitality. The Western world was consciously dying, longing for a fresh breath from the creative source of life to rejuvenate it and send it on a higher career of endeavor. To that dying world the gospel was literally the breath of life, which saved it not only spiritually but politically and in every other way. The conditions in the Eastern world were totally different. We are not yet certain whence came the Chinese. If they are not indeed the ancient Su- merians, who appear on the remotest frontiers of human history, having already attained a high civ- ilization at Babylon, four millenniums before Christ, it is certain that the civilizations of these people are identical. They are the same in their industry, their literary character, their instinctive abhorrence of brutal war, with its military aris- tocracy, and their principles of government. It is THE GOSPEL IN CHINA 37 also certain that they emigrated from that cradle of the human race. While the historic races with which we are familiar moved westward, following "the star of empire," this people moved eastward till they were stopped by the billows of the Pacific. Unaffected by the great events which prepared the Western world for the gospel of the kingdom, they built up a civilization entirely their own, develop- ing a literature, science, and art, which antedated by centuries those of the European world. They had their vices, their rebellions, their frequent changes of dynasties, yet through it all the govern- ment moved on in its ancient way, and the normal development of the people was undisturbed. They have had a history long enough to enable them to fathom the deeps -of every religious system that had ever reached them, and to properly estimate its value. The mysticism of Buddhism had failed. Its temples are neglected. So far as it relates to the religious life of the people, that imported faith of India is only a broken shell of a nut, the meat of which was decayed. The atheistic faith of Taoism had practically ceased to be a computable force in the land ; an intellectual system as lifeless as Patris- tic scholasticism is with us. The moral system cf Confucius, beautiful as it is, has proved itself in the long test of the years to be utterly inadequate "to make the comers thereunto perfect." The ethics of the ages are a spent force. There is no hierarchy to deceive the people with a form of reli- gion in the place of its reality, for the emperor 28 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL is himself the representative of heaven and earth and the people, and relegates none of his glory to another. But the recent wars of China with for- eign nations have shaken the faith of the people in the divinity of their rulers. Amid all these changes, there is one thing in the faith of China which stands unmoved and ap- parently immovable: the people adore the Past. The holy thing is that which has been, coming down to them from the dawn of time. They fear and abhor change. The worship of ancestors is the soul of their religion. If this invulnerable con- servatism which so appalls the preacher of Christ were the torpor of a stagnant mind or the decrepi- tude of old age, it would not be so hopeless. But while China outages all other living nations the individual Chinaman has all the virile traits of youth. He is described by such as have labored with him for many years as "an emigrant of ubiquitous adaptation ; a business man, a mechanic, a trader, a sailor, a diplomat." He has not been a soldier, for he has too lofty a conception of the meaning of a man, to honor him whose chief busi- ness in life is just to fight and butcher his fellow. He explained China's disastrous war with Japan thus : "We are literary ; they are only fighters." We in these latter days have discovered that aid China is, after all, a youthful Hercules who even now is squeezing the serpents in his cradle. But when Miss Porter entered Peking these latent forces were not so apparent. It was her business, with THE GOSPEL IN CHINA 29 her colaborers, to believe that these forces were there, find them out, awaken them by the gospel power of life, and at last, when God's hour should strike, send them forth not a horde of barbarians to threaten Christendom, but a redeemed host car- rying the banner of peace. How our missionaries did this miracle, and by what means, it is the pur- pose of these sketches to tell. CHAPTER IV HOME IN PEKING The two apostles of Methodism in North China, the Rev. L. N. Wheeler and the Rev. H. H. Lowry, were reinforced in the fall of 1870 by the arrival of the Rev. L. W. Pilcher, of blessed memory, and the Rev. G. R. Davis, who, with the skill of a vet- eran, is still doing efficient service in this field. Their work, however, was necessarily preliminary studying the situation, mastering the language, erecting chapels and other buildings, and pioneer- ing the outlying country. The official reports of our brethren to the Mission Board during those first three years of the North China Mission, are both pathetic and inspiring. From the world view- point the situation was as hopeless as was the evan- gelization of Europe when Paul and Silas landed in Macedonia. But these four men faced the de- spairing conditions with a courage and faith worthy the inspired missionaries. A property covering a little less than two acres, inclosed in a high brick wall, and lying not far from the city gates, was purchased. It had been formerly occupied by a chancellor of the empire as a place of residence for his family of twenty- 30 HOME IN PEKING 31. seven wives and a large retinue of servants. Many of the buildings in this compound had to be torn down, and others erected and adapted to missionary purposes. This work, however, because of financial considerations, could not be done at once, and the missionaries were compelled to adjust themselves to their limitations, living in old Chinese houses adapted as nearly as possible to American habits of life. The appropriation for the entire work that year was less than $7,000. Into this environ- ment came the first representatives of the Woman's Foreign Missionary Society, Miss Maria Brown and Miss Mary Q. Porter. In a booklet entitled Our Peking School, which she published some sixteen years later, she gives us a delicious reminiscence which is better than a pho- tograph of her Peking home, for it reproduces the glow of the atmosphere of her first day there, and gives us charming glimpses into her own heart as she stands upon the threshold of a work for which she was destined to lay down her life: " 'You must be vaccinated !' The doctor was called ! The deed was done ! And Miss Brown and I, having just landed in Tientsin, en route to Pe- king, tarried there and nursed our wounded arms; and were, by so much, better prepared to meet the ills of the flesh, which, as well as the enemy of souls, should confront us in days to come. "First among memories of those first days, nat- urally enough, stands one of this experience which met us on the threshold of the new life to wliich 32 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL we had come, and other memories throng in rapid succession. They are so vivid, that one cannot think how unreal they may seem to those who read these pages. "It was a hot April day in China hot enough for a July day in America. We had come by boat from Tientsin to Tung Chou, and were on the road that lies between Tung Chou and Peking. It is a stone-paved road, and the huge paving stones are worn into deep ruts by the heavy wheelbarrows and carts that for ages have wheeled back and forth between the two cities. "There were five of us, and we were riding on donkeys the superintendent of our North China Mission and his little daughter, a brother mission- ary, Miss Brown, and myself. Our saddles were stuffed packs, which long use had packed into any- thing but comfortable shape. On our several packs, three of our party balanced with no support for the feet, as the stirrups were hung over the packs on ropes, in a way that made it necessary to ride astride, in order to make any use of them. Chinese women, when they ride, either sit astride or cross their feet in front, sitting tailor fashion on broad packs. This latter is the more easily done, since a driver runs after each animal and lends a steadying hand over rough places. The fashion in riding in China differing from the fashion of the West, there were no sidesaddles for our use, so we undertook, as best we could, to adapt the fashion of the West to the saddle of the East. In my case this was all HOME IN PEKING 83 the more difficult, because the animal which I rode had an evil propensity for leaping the inequalities of the road. He volunteered many jumps into the air, which brought me with as many involuntary jumps to the ground. " 'My saddle is just like a hill,' complained the child riding ahead of me. An exclamation from behind called attention to another uncomfortable rider, who sat upon a donkey that was kicking out vigorously, just as the driver threw himself over the flying heels and with his arms around the animal's body strove to hold him to the ground. Presently there was a vision of our escort, with full-spread umbrella, sailing over the head of the donkey upon which he had been sitting, while for the instant that animal stood head down and heels in the air. Submitting as cheerfully as possible to its mishaps, our party came on its way. Finally the city walls came into view, its battlemented outline showing through the veil of dust which hung over the city. Within the shadow of the massive gate towers we exchanged our precarious saddles for less uncertain sittings in staunch Peking carts. These carts seemed like large dry goods boxes on wheels, each cushioned and lined and set upon the shafts with an opening toward the front. As we approached the cart which was to carry us the carter sprang from his perch upon the shafts and, lifting the stiff cushion upon which he had been sitting, pro- duced a short bench. Placing the bench upon the ground, one end against the cart wheel and his foot 34 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL on the other end to steady it, he waited for us to mount. From the bench to the shafts I climbed, then backing into the cart, was seated upon its cushioned floor. Drawing my feet under me, I made room for my companion, who backed in and took her place in front of me. The carter then took up his bench, put it into place, with its ends resting on the shafts and its legs projecting down- ward; then, letting the heavy cushion fall, he sprang upon the seat so formed, and with feet dangling took up the lines and we were off. It required constant adjusting on our part to keep our heads from coming into violent contact with the sides of the swaying cart, as the wheels, first on one side and then the other, descended into the deep ruts of the stone-paved way. "Passing through the city gate, our carter soon turned aside from the stone road, and then our cart rolled along comfortably enough. We passed through a place filled with mounds formed by the debris of former buildings. We were told that the houses once here were^ years ago, razed to the ground, in order to rid the city of a gang of rob- bers who infested this locality. Leaving this for- saken place behind, our carter turned into Filial Piety Lane and stopped before the gate of the Methodist Mission compound. Up and down the street as far as we could see were only dusty, gray brick walls, with here and there heavy doors closing the entrances to the houses which were behind the walls, but invisible from the street. HOME IN PEKING 35 "We crawled out of our carts and stood upon one of the great cubes of stone, two of which flank the gateway. Stepping down, we entered the great double gate, which was swung open by the gate- keeper, who made his bow as we passed, and stood within the walls of a brick-paved court. Beyond the walls of this gate court were three homes. Two were occupied by the two families then belonging to the North China Mission, and the third stood unoccupied, waiting the arrival of this new Mis- sion's first representatives from the Woman's For- eign Missionary Society. "Well, we turned to the left and passed through another gate, and went to exchange greetings with the members of the family with whom we were to make our home until we could set up housekeeping for ourselves. Then, dusty and tired, we turned again and were shown through another gate into the house which was to be our home through so many changing years. Here we found a room fitted up for our present use. "Early in the morning of the next day, I stepped into the weed-grown court in front of our house. A great dog bounded forth, and in greeting placed his paws upon my shoulders, then dropping to the ground, he marked the entire length of my gown with two streaks of Peking mud. The act made an impression upon my mind as well as upon my gown, whereby I remember that it rained that April morn- ing in Peking. A path through the weeds led to a hole in the wall. It was a perfect circle, about 36 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL six feet in diameter, nicely finished in masonry the Chinese moon-gate. Near by was a small build- ing, then used for a chapel. Beyond that, and joining the court in which I stood, was another court which was to be used for our girls' school. From somewhere on the other side of the walls came the sound of voices united in a sing-song of un- meaning sounds. The boys of our mission school were studying their lessons in a room just over the wall. Turning about, I faced the little house in which we had spent our first night in Peking. There it stood under its heavy tiled roof. Three rooms in a row and a veranda across its length. It was a Chinese house which had been fitted with board floors and glass windows, and, like nearly all houses in Peking, was only one story high. All this has changed with the sixteen years that have passed since then. The weeds, after a struggle, gave place to grass and shrubbery. The old wall, with its moon-gate, and the little chapel, were torn down, and beyond the old foundations a new wall was built, which wall joins the new and larger chapel over to the east, to bound the premises of the Woman's Foreign Mission Society. Still fur- ther to the east, and beyond a high wall, flourishes a boys' school, in large, well-appointed buildings, which school had its beginning in that school of street boys who shouted their lessons that rainy morning so long ago. "The size of our house was increased to more convenient dimensions, by throwing out a wing to HOME IN PEKING 37 the front and adding a kitchen to the back. Be- cause of its peculiar dimensions our friends called the house the Long Home. Here Miss Brown and I set up housekeeping, and here we spent three happy, busy years together. Here we were j-oined by Dr. Combs (1873), who made her home with us until her house and hospital were built. Here Miss Campbell spent her short life of devoted labor (1875-1878), and here she died. With zeal, matched by the strong will with which she overcame all difficulties, and unsparing self-denial, she gave herself to the people with whom she had cast in her lot. The few years of her missionary life were filled with incessant toil. And now she rests. In this same house we welcomed Dr. Howard (1877), and to this home came Miss Cushman (1878), bringing with her a quickening atmosphere of love and energy, and here Miss Cushman and I wel- comed Miss Sears and Miss Yates (1880), and later Mrs. Jewell (1883). "The workers, who through the busy years made their home in that little house behind the walls of Filial Piety Lane, are widely separated IKTW, and the little house is only a memory in the hearts of those who loved it for the associations of the years in which they called it home. The house was finally torn down (1896) to make room for the school, which, planted in the court to the east, grew until the eastern court was not large enough to contain it." After Mrs. Gamewell had left us for her eternal 38 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL mansion Mrs. G. R. Davis (Miss Maria Brown), who had shared with her the sacrifice, toil, and victory of those early days of the Peking Mission, in a letter of reminiscence, writes: "I do not recall that Mary ever told me in detail about her call to mission work, but I know there was a positive conviction that she was called to the for- eign field, which did not yield to the repeated ex- pression of opinion from three veteran missionaries, that our Mission Board had made a grave mistake in appointing us to Peking, as there was absolutely no work that a young woman could do there. "We came out the year after the Tientsin Massa- cre, when the prejudice against all foreigners was still very strong in the North. We rarely went on the street without seeing women placing their hands over the children's eyes lest we bewitch them. "We were friends from our first meeting in San Francisco, and our close contact during the voyage strengthened the bond. We used to walk the deck together or lean over the side of the ship and sing softly, 'If on a quiet sea, toward heaven we calmly sail,' but it was not a quiet sea on which we sailed in that late autumn of 1871. "We felt our first genuine touch of homesickness when we reached Shanghai. Many of our fellow- passengers were missionaries, returning from fur- lough, who lived in Shanghai, and the friends who crowded around to greet them in the joy of their greeting, impressed us with the consciousness that we were strangers in a strange land. However, HOME IN PEKING 39 there was welcome and greeting for us in the hearts and home of Dr. and Mrs. Lambuth. A few days with them, and, as the last steamer for the North had left the day before our arrival, we accompanied the Misses Beulah and Sallie Woolston to Foochow, and found a home and warm-hearted friends with Mr. and Mrs. Sites. They were very kind to us during the three months of our stay in Foochow, and Mary charmed the children of the household with her singing. They had never heard the songs of the war until she sang them and they did enjoy them so much. We were unable to secure a Manda- rin teacher there, but a Chinese teacher gave us les- sons in writing character, and discouraged me with the assurance that I would never be able to equal her in excellence. Although we did not learn much Chinese, we did learn many lessons while in Foo- chow. We saw the work as it then was, and heard many stories of the early years, when faith not sight held the workers to the task they had under- taken, and we came North prepared not 'to de- spise the day of small things' ! "We had been asked many times during our stay in the South: 'What do you expect to do?' We had always the one answer: 'Anything that we can find to do.' Our North China Mission was in its infancy. A beginning had been made. Our coming gave help and comfort to the other workers, if we could not at first take any part in the effort to reach our neighbors. Our home attracted the women who lived near, and we had many callers 40 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL during the time when we could only smile and show them pictures and our various belongings in the effort to convince them that we were friends. "It was in our home, and at Mary's suggestion that she and I knelt each day at noon to ask God's blessing on the work. In some way Dr. Lowry heard the matter referred to, and urged that it be made a time for prayer for all the Mission. And so through Mary's influence was established the noon prayer meeting, which through all these years has been a power in our Mission for harmony and spiritual uplift. "Our home was very dear to us both. Mary in- sisted upon a division of household cares, and also that I was on no account to do any part of her tasks that she might chance to overlook. Nor would she suffer me to please myself by doing things for her, declaring that it would certainly foster selfishness. She was full of enthusiasm, and her bright young face, ready smile, and unfailing cheerfulness, made her a general favorite. We were happy in our home, but our work was like all pioneer work hard and often discouraging. But the only thing that counted was that there really was work to do and work that was worth doing. "She still lives in the hearts of many for whom she labored here, and the influence of her life and work must endure, a more lasting monument than the beautiful stone which marks the last resting place of the earthly tabernacle." CHAPTER V IN THE PEKING COMPOUND Life in the Methodist Mission compound in the city of Peking back in the seventies was very unlike that that triumphs there in this first decade of the twentieth century. In that area there are now many sweet homes, schools, a hospital, a university, and a splendid church, where hundreds of devout Chinese worship the true God and his Christ. The whole inclosure is pervaded by an atmosphere of intellectual culture, social refinement, and spiritual life, which is all the more vital because of the deadly heathenism with which it is contrasted. But this is the result of many years of patient and laborious toil, demanding a courage and sacrifice worthy that of the apostolic times. Imagine a young woman who has felt the pulse of the nineteenth century, and one to whom the prize of distinction and large usefulness in her own land had been extended, shut in a little world in which are only eight of her countrymen. A gray brick wall twelve feet high bounds her horizon. Here are a few old buildings, not only foreign but Oriental; picturesque indeed with their tiled roofs and overhanging eaves curved up as if shriveled by 41 42 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL the intense summer heat, but ill adapted to Ameri- can modes of life. The Chinaman's idea of home comfort and ours are as antipodal as are our tongues. The average American sleeps in a better room than the well-to-do official of China, who erects his house with no idea whatever of sanitation, and no idea of comfort as we understand comfort. The missionaries had taken out the paper win- dows and substituted glass, and they had laid baard floors above the brick pavement on which the orig- inal owner, though wealthy, was content to live. But still the entire aspect was Oriental, ever deep- ening the oppressive feeling of a far separation from home. The blue sky is much of the time obscured or dyed to gray by great masses of dust which lay on the city like a thick cloud. When the wind blows these dust clouds swirl and swish, pene- trating every crevice of your home, and forcing the retreat of broom and duster in inglorious defeat. The dust, heavily laden with the poisons of a filthy city, penetrates your garments, scratches your skin, irritates your eyes. You breathe it, you taste it, you smell it. A rainy day is a boon. How unlike the spirit of our own land to speak of "a lovely rainy day" ! Yet Miss Porter writes : "The rain is pouring as if in haste to fill up the measure of the Peking rainy season, all in this one drenched Saturday. The dampness is like new vigor to nerves tight drawn through the long dry season of this climate. The seclusion of these drip- ping days is favorable to letter writing, and the IN THE PEKING COMPOUND 43 patter, splash, rush, and pour make sweet music to time one's thoughts and one's pen." All this is very interesting for a mere visitor who is there for a few weeks. Its novelty is a charm, and its very discomforts add spice to the spirit of adventure ; but to make this one's life, day by day through long and weary years, is an endurance to test the stoutest courage. When Miss Porter would seek relief by venturing outside the gates of the compound she is at once confronted by the gateless wall -of race hatred, and cannot enter sympathetically into the life of the great world into which she has come with her mes- sage of love. She is physically repulsive to the Chinese. Her speech is barbarism. Her manner, measured by Chinese etiquette, is coarseness itself. What gentleman would be seen walking the streets with his wife? Children cover their eyes and run from her, screaming with terror till at a safe dis- tance, when they will join with others in the cry, "Foreign devil!" Many look upon her as an in- truder, and are bold to let her know that she is not wanted. They think her a meddler, coming to attack their venerable faith, and race hatred is in- tensified by religious passkm. A young and sensi- tive woman must have hidden resources to endure all this and hold to her purpose. As it is, it is safer and pleasantcr to keep as much as possible within the compound with her few companions, in spite of its limited range and its dusty old Chinese houses, so unlike her sweet home bcvond the seas. Her 44 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL earliest work was in the main preparatory. Under date of 1872 she writes : "The friends here have been very kind, as we have found them everywhere. Mr. Wheeler in everything is thoughtful for our comfort ; his kind heart appears in all his arrangements for us. They had fitted up two rooms for us in the house that we shall occupy, and made every arrangement that could contribute to our comfort and make our future home seem more homelike. Our lot joins Mr. Wheeler's on the left and the school grounds on the right. Additions are to be made to our house, and the old building on the school lot is to be replaced by a new one. The two houses are to be connected by a covered passage. This work will not be done short of three months, perhaps. "The prospects for a school are encouraging. Three girls have asked admission. We would like to open school at once if there were only suitable buildings for it. The work of our mission has only just begun in Peking. The church membership is very small and includes no women. We shall have to employ a heathen woman as matron in the school, of course with the hope that she may be converted. Our teachers are all men. The women are very ignorant and unfit for teachers." Daily routine of study and teaching without re- lief, threatens to become drudgery. And when to it we add the oppressive loneliness of wide and long separation from one's kindred, and the constant drain on one's sympathies which the woes of hea- IN, THE PEKING COMPOUND 45 thendom occasion, there is danger that it will irri- tate a fiery spirit till it finally becomes a nervous wreck. Many instances are reported. Miss Porter in one of her early letters refers to four missionaries of whom she knew, whose minds had utterly given way under the strain. The pressure is harder on young women than on those who are married, for these latter have diversion in the care of their fam- ilies. It does ease one to shift the burden from one shoulder to the other. Recreation, in the American sense, is practically impossible in the serious atmosphere -of initial mis- sion work. To seek diversion in some earnest study which does not bear directly upon the work is not regarded with favor, and when such study becomes absorbing it is openly condemned. "This one thing I do," though enforced by no statute, is the im- perative law of our China Missions. If Miss Por- ter suffered the natural depression of her environ- ment in those early days, we have learned of no statement of it from her lips or pen. Yet not to have suffered it would have been superhuman. But she had her conflict unknown to the world, alone in the wilderness of her temptation. She returned from her struggle a victor, and took up her work afresh with renewed strength. In a letter to one very dear to her, she says : "If I were not afraid that I should lose ground or grip by doing so, I would acknowledge to you that I carry about witli me a sense of failure all the time, because of things that I do not get done. 46 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL The secret is known between God and myself only. I put on a bold front and refuse to acknowledge that there is anything I ought to do which I can- not do." She says the secret was her own. This is doubt- less true of the details of her conflict; but the secret of her victory is apparent to all who knew her intimately. It was due partly to the robust healthfulness of her entire nature. She was in the fullness of physical health, and seems to have in- herited much of her mother's reverence for the proper care of the temple of the Holy Spirit. She was removed by immeasurable spaces from the mor- bid view of the ascetic. Speaking of one whose mind had become unbalanced in his work, she says : "It all comes from unnatural modes of living: Chinese clothes, single life, and solitude." She adds: "The matter of how missionaries ought to live is often a question among missionaries themselves, and no one is supposed to have reached the per- fect solution. I personally have settled in the com- mon sense view of the North China Mission. The missionary who has the Spirit is always successful in winning and helping souls: and his home com- forts do not lessen his usefulness. The only differ- ence between the man who has the Spirit and lives poorly and the man who has the Spirit and lives comfortably is that the latter is likely to keep his health longer, and when it does break he knows it was not for lack of comforts which he might have IN THE PEKING COMPOUND 47 had for the asking. It seems to me that the only thing for a missionary to do is to wait on the Spirit and keep the temple in as good repair as possible." With this principle, she studied the matter of food, dress, and exercise with the same reverence and joy with which she would furnish and adorn the house of God. Another element of her strength was her healthful mental tone. The journals of those years reveal no taint of morbidity. She absolutely refused to let the walls of the compound, or even the great wall -af North China, limit her vision. She kept herself informed on all the great movements in her own country and in the world. Her comments on the political and commercial events in America would have made creditable edi- torials for our great metropolitan journals. She was specially interested in all missionary efforts in all parts of the world, and studied them in their mutual relationship. If we were asked to name what we reckoned to be the distinctive feature of her mind, we would say breadth. To such a mind there is no dull and cheerless and wearisome monotony. Even the man- gled foot of a Chinese little girl has relations and significances widening out into the mysteries of the kingdom. She once said: "Mary of Bethany lit- tle dreamed how great a thing she wrought when she poured that precious ointment on His person. But it is given us to know that in doing so little a thing as relieving a mangled foot we are doing that for Jesus which he calls 'this gospel, which 48 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL shall be preached throughout the whole world.' " Another secret of her triumph was her inborn sen- sibility to Nature's touch which kept her heart ever fresh. In dust-clouded Peking there is very little of Nature to be enjoyed. But she found it. We have seen how the patter of the rain sent her pen on rhythmical meditations. She loved to walk out on the wall of the Tartar city to the observatory where she could get the most commanding view of the great metropolis and suburbs. In one of her earliest letters she gives this bit of description, which we repeat because of the glimpse it gives of her heart : "This point commands the finest possible view of the entire city, though in its summer dress it looks more a forest than a city ; and the thick foliage of innumerable trees, through which the yellow tiles of the palace building glimmer in pleasing contrast, overshadow the low houses and obstruct the view in all directions. The multitude of trees and birds is a great redeeming feature of this filthy city of dust and wickedness (that dust is near akin to wickedness all housekeepers will allow). The trees are inclosed in the walls by which all dwellings are surrounded, and we may not enjoy their shade; but we may walk on the city wall and en joy the sight of their refreshing green, and breathe the pure air which perhaps has swept the very woods beneath whose shade we used to walk. The little birds that flit about our high-walled courts are constant visi- tors during both summer and winter, though the IN THE PEKING COMPOUND 49 liveliest imagination cannot fancy that they, or those birds of loftier flight that fly shrieking through the air, ever saw America. It is but fair to add, all the birds do not shriek as they fly, only those that have whistles on their tails. These whistles are an ingenious sort of wind instrument made vocal by motion through the air, as they speed their flight, on the tails of pet pigeons that fly at large in great numbers over all the city. The whistles are tied to the birds before they take their daily flight. The peculiar buzzing shriek can be heard in all directions and for some distance from the city, to the satisfaction of the peculiar inventive genius of the Chinese mind." But the principal reason of her triumph over her depressing outward conditions was her com- munion with God. The following extracts from letters to members of her family reveal the secret of her strength : "No, I have had no regular wonder if you did not mean irregular fits of homesickness. I have longed to sec you all, thought of you until the tears come not common with me but there is no despondency in it. I fully believe God has kept me from such feelings and in answer to prayer. I think I have told you how buoyed up I have felt at times when the most natural feeling would have been heavy sadness. An Influence has supported me all the way that I did not feel in past days. When I remember the promised prayers and the assurance from societies, Sunday schools, and 50 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL churches that they are praying for me, it is no won- der. Prayer seems to me a more substantial com- fort the -older I grow, more like a real talk, and I know and see the answers to some of my prayers, and no doubt all are answered." "Now, in answer to your question, 'anxious to be back' does not describe the state of my feelings. I am content to wait, but when the time does come for my visit home I think none could be more joy- ful. I long to see you all again. Sometimes I ache with the feeling of how impossible it is for me to see you now ; but, my sister, I think God has given me a gift, a gift of faith that we shall be united on earth, to comfort me. I used to pray for you all with what was real agony because of my dread of what might happen, but for a long time that feeling has left me and a quiet sort of assur- ance takes its place, and I am content, and I do believe this assurance comes from God, that he who cares for us so carefully, kindly, wisely, thus pre- pares my heart for my work here." When she consecrated herself to the work of a missionary it was with the full conviction that she was sent of Christ, and that his promise, "Lo, I am with you alway," was given to her personally. It is not to be supposed that at that time she fully understood the measure of the sacrifice and peril that her consecration would entail, but she never lost the strength of her conviction or the cheer of IN THE PEKING COMPOUND 51 his presence. There came times when a tragic death was imminent, and others when death would have been a happy relief, yet never when in the prosecution of her legitimate work had she any fear. "Why," said she, "should I be alarmed when I know that He whom I serve is with me?" That this courage was really due to the sense of Christ's presence when she was engaged in his ser- vice, appears from the fact that fear did distress her when peril came while she was engaged in some other work, however innocent, which was not strict- ly missionary. Once she went to see the celebrated spring at Chi Nan Fu, and came unexpectedly into peril. And then she suffered apprehension which she would not have felt if in the line of duty : "The nearest way from the spring to our carts was through a large square, where on certain days there are markets, or fairs. So large a company is accustomed to gather at these fairs that it would not be thought safe for foreign ladies to appear there, and much more so since they are very seldom seen on the streets. On this particular day our friends thought there was no fair, and proceeded to take us through the square. Too late to turn back we discovered the square full of people, and a fair in full play. We passed about half way through without attracting the attention of the people busy with their own affairs. Before we had proceeded much farther attention was called to our presence by cries on every side. A multitude of idlers began to follow. People from the gates 52 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL rushed out to swell the throng. They ran shout- ing : 'Foreign devils ! foreign devils !' Then paus- ing, we could hear only the murmur of the great crowd following; then would come the rush of pressing throngs and fearful howls. As is the only safe and prudent way under such circumstances, we walked quietly and deliberately, not desiring to turn the affair into a chase, with no telling what disaster to follow. The walk seemed very long; and with that ever and anon howl in our ears it was not altogether free from apprehension, for a slight touch only is needed to turn an idle crowd into a howling, destructive mob. I think that if I had been on missionary business, instead of sight- seeing, I should have felt not the slightest tremor of alarm. As it was, I was not sure I was in my right place, and was glad when we reached our carts and were off through the gates once more." This was a feature of her spiritual life which, while not unique as a fact, is rarely understood and interpreted as it was by her. The presence of Christ in the world is not simply a blessed memory of two thousand years ago, nor a sweet experience that is ours occasionally when we are in a suitable devotional frame. He is ever present personally in his work. To be heart and will in his work is to be in his presence. His omnipotence enfolds you. His love inspires you. With such a conviction, we can understand her courage which to other minds seems reckless, but which in the result is seen to be the power of God. CHAPTER VI SCHOOL WORK The specific work assigned Miss Porter and those associated with her as representatives of the Woman's Foreign Missionary Society was to or- ganize and maintain a girls' school and to do evan- gelistic work among women. To organize a school without a scholar, without apparatus, without the language, and without an acquaintance with the habits and mental attitude of the people, was a task almost hopeless. It would have been actually so only for the sublime faith of the young women who came to Peking under the conviction that the eternal God had sent them to do this thing. To their faith nothing was impossible. If Miss Porter had been able to cast her eye over the thirty-five years of her missionary life and foresee the splendid results as she did see them before she ended her earthly labors, she could not have begun her work with greater courage and zeal than she did that first morning after her arrival in the mission com- pound. "She saw the triumph from nfar: By faith she brought it nigh." The following paragraphs from her pen give us 53 54 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL admission into the schoolroom, and reproduce for us somewhat of its life, as the mere annalist could not possibly do. "On the ninth of April we took possession of our little house vacated for us by Mr. Davis and Mr. Pilcher. To this house they made an addition of one large room, and built beside it a small school- house. In the following August (1872) we opened school with two pupils present." "The first little girl who came to our school ran away again as fast as her bound feet could carry her just as soon as she saw us. She had never be- fore seen foreigners, and the first sight she found very frightful. The child was captured and brought back and put into the care of her aunt, who had been engaged as matron for the school to be. When the child had become reconciled to her new home her feet were unbound, she was bathed, and put into a suit of new clothes ; and our school had its first pupil Hui Hsin, we called her one of seven who remained." "During the first year or two of the school's ex- istence about sixty girls came and went away again ; only seven came and remained. Those who brought children to the school generally brought them only that the school might relieve them of the support of the children. Then, when their fears were roused by silly tales about the foreigners, or their neighbors taunted them with having sold their SCHOOL WORK 55 daughters ta the foreign devils,' they came and took the children away. Sometimes the girls were left in school only long enough to get nicely clothed, and then were taken out of school and their clothes sold or pawned. In one case, which was followed up with a hope of saving the child, Miss Brown suc- ceeded in making her way into a contracted, dingy room, where she found the little girl, who, a few days before, was in the school happy and well dressed, now shivering and miserable, with only the rags of some worn-out bedding for a covering. Her garments had been taken to the pawn shop by the wretched creatures who controlled the child's life. "In the years since its beginning the school has made a good reputation for itself, and a Christian church has gathered about the North China Mis- sion. The difficulty of persuading people to leave their children after they had been received into the school has passed away, and the question now is how to make room for all who want to find a place in the school." "Lucy was one of our first girls. When I recall the school as it was in its first days, with seven little heathen girls, on whom we had so little hold be- cause they had no lore or trust for us in their dark- ened hearts, and contrast it with the school that now is filled with Christian girls, who, on the right and on the left, hold up their teachers' hands, and 56 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL whose influence is now felt strong and helpful through all our North China work, I feel sorry for those first girls. "It was in taking care of them that we gained that knowledge of the Chinese character and mind which better fitted us for further work. On them we practiced our first stammerings in a strange language. Their opportunities are not to be com- pared with those that the school offers now, with its established precedents, its experienced teachers, and its wholesome Christian atmosphere." "Lucy was an only child of poor parents, and spoiled. A slender, graceful, willful girl, with a quiet but keen face, who with low-voiced persua- sion or cutting sarcasm held sway over her com- panions. She was fond of her books, but shirked, whenever possible, all duties demanding physical exertion. "Lucy was always ladylike in her bearing, and never came to open issue with her teachers; but her ready wit could find something to turn into ridicule for the amusement of her companions, in any task assigned her. "One day she was seated upon our sitting room floor, with a circle of younger girls about her. Her task was to prepare patches, and help the younger ones to mend a pile of clothing that lay before them. She did not look upon the task with any pleasure. While I was in another room, I overheard her say- ing in her usual quiet voice, as she held in view a SCHOOL WORK 57 roll of pieces of new cloth : 'Our teacher talks much about the Bible doctrine, and is continually exhort- ing us ; nevertheless, she herself does not follow the Bible teaching. You see these new pieces and those old garments, and you all know that the Bible says you must not mend old garments with new cloth.' ' "Closely associated with this memory of Lucy is a picture of her mother as I last saw her. She was a tidy, brisk little woman, who tried to save her daughter at her own expense. She often did Lucy's washing which Lucy was supposed to do herself, and when the clothes were dried and neatly folded, she allowed her to bring them to me as the result of her own exertions. In the same way she tried to do Lucy's sewing for her. Then one day this mother, who in her mistaken kindness thwarted so many lessons intended for her daughter's good, sent word that she was ill and wanted to see me. I found her in a room not much larger than the stove- bed upon which she was lying. She was flat upon her back, with her poor cramped feet drawn up, and notwithstanding her pain and weakness, with her hands extended upwards, she was at work on a pair of stockings for Lucy. The poor woman con- fessed that she had broken her promise to first con- sult me, and had betrothed Lucy, urging as a rea- son why I should be satisfied that she had found a professing Christian for a husband for her daugh- ter. She told me that she knew she was dying, and with tears besought me to complete the arrange- 58 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL ments she had begun. She gave as a reason for breaking her promise, that she had an opportunity for marrying Lucy to a man whose mother was dead, and so she had settled the matter at once, that Lucy might be spared the trials -of living with a Chinese mother-in-law. In a land where the hus- band's mother rules as she wills the life of her son's wife, even a heathen mother realizes the unhappy estate of a young wife. Dying, as living, this mother had no concern for herself, if only she could be assured of a comfortable settlement for her darling daughter. "The mother died and the daughter was married. Lucy was a professing Christian ; but poor, spoiled child, she did not have the grace to make a very good wife. Lucy's husband was very proud of his bright, graceful girl wife ; but his slower wit and uncontrolled temper put him at the mercy of her exasperating teasing. She laid traps for his tem- per, and he walked right into every trap. One day she tormented him into a rage. He, in the midst of his storming, told Lucy that the Bible teaches that the wife should obey the husband. She answered him that in her Bible there was no such word as 'obey.' He in turn demanded that she bring her Bible and he would show her whether or not it contained any such word as 'obey. 5 For once Lucy was promptly obedient. The demand was what she had planned and worked for. The Bible was produced. The wrathful husband turned to Paul's epistle. Sure enough, there was no such SCHOOL WORK 59 word upon the page. Lucy had prepared for this scene. She had neatly encircled each objectionable little word with the sharp point of a pin, and one by one they had dropped out, and now the word was no longer in her Bible. "After a few troubled months Lucy became very ill, and they said she must die. She sent for one of her former teachers, who again directed her to the Lamb of God; and poor, erring Lucy at last entered into rest. She went from the arms of her teacher to the Saviour, who loves and cares more than we can love and care. 'A bruised reed shall he not break.' " "Another child there was whom we called Hui An. She was an odd child, and was in high favor with her missionary teachers, but nearly always in disgrace with the old Chinese teacher. She had unusual reasoning power, by which she compre- hended our teachings better than the other pupils, and made application of what she understood to her individual life; but Hui An seemed to have little faculty for memorizing, so she was in disgrace with a teacher, whose teachings consisted in set- ting tasks for the memories of his pupils. "In the days when the school was small the girls used to come each evening, one by one, into a quiet room of our house, and kneel and repeat a prayer after me. One day, as soon as the girls were out of school, Hui An knocked at my door and asked, 60 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL 'Please may I say my prayers now ?' I told her she had better wait for the usual hour, but she stood there sorrowful and unwilling to go, and timidly repeated her request. She was very much in ear- nest, so, to her evident relief, I led her to the room and listened while she made her prayer. She got up from her knees with a satisfied and happy face. I again asked why she came at this hour. By this time she had gained a little more courage, which courage seemed to have been taxed to the utmost in making the first request, and, standing upon one foot, toying nervously with her big sleeves, and with downcast face, she said: *I love so much to play that every day I just play as hard as I can, from the time school is out until supper time, and after supper to prayer time, so when I come in to pray I just can think of nothing but the play, and all out of breath I want to rush through the prayer and be off to play again. And now,' she said, 'since I know that God knows about this kind of business, and don't like it, I am afraid to do so any more.' She went on to say that if she prayed before she played, she could say her prayers and think about what she was saying, so she came as soon as school was out to have the prayers all right. We were very happy over this token that God was working in the hearts of our girls. "Years after, when this little girl was grown, and there were many Christians among our girls, we found the girls in a room where quite a number slept, working a plan by which they secured oppor- SCHOOL WORK 61 tunity for private devotions. When the retiring bell rang, the girls took down the pile of quilts that occupied one end of the long stove-bed. Then each girl folded her quilt and betook herself, feet first, into the snug pocket so formed. When all were disposed side by side, feet to the wall and heads out, one of the larger girls put out the light. This was the signal for all talking to cease. Imme- diately all the girls lying there in a long row raised their voices in a hymn. The singing ended ; then all was silent, while each girl covered her face and breathed her prayer to the Father they had learned to love since they first learned to fear him. 'We love him because he first loved us.' " "One year from the time when Maria Brown and I sat at study by a wood fire in southern Foo- chow we sat in Peking before a stove in which burned a coal fire to keep out the cold of a north- ern winter. Then we were studying the language ; now we were considering certain questions which ever since our arrival in Peking had been thrusting themselves more and more into view and could no longer be ignored. We had come in from a Sunday evening service held in the home of a neighboring mission and sat before the fire in the quiet of a Sabbath night, facing those questions that we might now meet and settle them once for all. "Always, when I look down the years that have passed since the year 1872, to memory's picture of that little sitting room in Peking and those two 62 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL sitting in the lamplight there, the picture seems to glow with the soft radiance of a Divine Pres- ence. And as, instructed by the experience of the intervening years, I realize the far-reaching results of that night's decisions, and how limited the ex- perience and powers of those who made them, my heart thrills with the glory of a sure conviction that the Almighty Master was one in the confer- ence that night, that his Spirit guided our minds, and the decisions were his very own. "The questions decided were, should or should not the feet of girls admitted to our school be un- bound ? And what should be the limit of our inter- course with our brethren among the missionaries? Nowhere else in China were the feet of girls in mis- sion schools being unbound. Some missionaries thought the movement to unbind the feet hurtful to the progress of the gospel. And we had been told that if we undertook to unbind the feet of pupils, we should never be able to establish a school for girls in China. Already some of our little band of pupils had been taken away because we had unbound their feet. "The leaders of our Mission were men of vision, judgment, and faith. They were young and had the enthusiasm and courage to give full swing to conviction and make no compromise with expedi- ency. The knowledge that we could count upon their support greatly strengthened our purpose. We decided to unbind the feet, and in so doing emphasize our teaching that the body is the temple SCHOOL WORK 63 of the true Gad and must not be profaned. Then we should leave the results with the God whom we tried to honor before a heathen people. "As to the second question, we had seen a genteel old lady, whose respect we prized, hurry in scan- dalized agitation from our room because she had seen us shake hands with a gentleman who appeared at our door while she was present. By this and other signs we had become aware that our reputa- tions were at stake among a people whose concep- tion of the possibilities of womanhood is limited by the assumption that womankind are upright only so far as they lack opportunity to be otherwise. "The presence of single women in China missions was an offense against all Chinese ideas of pro- priety. Their position was beset by embarrass- ments and perplexities; and so serious were the embarrassments and perplexities attending their presence that there were missionaries on the field in those pioneer days who believed the introduction of single women workers into China missions to be a mistake. "In conference that night Miss Brown and I agreed that we should be misunderstood no matter what course we might choose, and that any attempt which we might make to conform to Chinese ideas of propriety in our intercourse with other members of the Peking circle not only would not abate the offense which our presence gave but would promote misunderstanding. We decided, therefore, that we should conduct ourselves in all our relationships 64 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL according to the conventions of our own Christian land and trust to future developments to win for us the respect and confidence, without which we could not hope to teach and lead the people to whom we had come. "There is evidence of divine guidance in the fact that we were brought to these decisions about the time that our infant Methodist Church of North China was born. Through these decisions, sup- ported by the hearty cooperation of the brethren, the infant church grew up familiar with the sight of girls with unbound feet, and familiar with les- sons concerning the sanctity of the body as the temple -of God, which the unbinding of the feet emphasized; and familiar also with the sight of men and women associating and counseling and working together on terms of equality and respect in the home, the school, and the church ; and so the new church grew into new ideas concerning the dignity of womanhood and the passible partnership of womanhood with manhood for the benefit of both. "While the infant church was growing the girls' school, with its pupils with unbound feet, was grow- ing ; and it grew to be the largest girls' school in China." CHAPTER VII UNBOUND FEET While at Foochow Miss Porter observed the crip- pled feet of the Chinese women, and studied them with a growing feeling of horror and shame. To her mind it was immeasurably more than a national fashion sanctioned by immemorial habit. It was a distinctive mark of the heathendom of that land, cruel, degrading and wicked. It was a desecration of the temple of the Holy Ghost, the defilement of which meant destruction. Its original purpose was not, as later ages claimed, to beautify the form divine, but to subject woman to the brutal tyranny of man. For a Christian to even tolerate it where her will could prohibit it, was for her to burn a pinch of incense on the altar of a heathen deity. Thus it became a matter of conscience with Miss Porter; and when she began the organization of a girls' school in Peking she, with Miss Brown, firmly insisted on a rule that no girl be admitted until she had unbound her feet. This was a rule that had never been enforced in any school in the coun- try. Wise men gravely doubted its wisdom, and counseled that concession would be expedient and more speedily accomplish the purpose of the rule. 65 66 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL Moreover, is not that the divine law which casts off evil not by assaults from without, but by the unfolding of truth from within ? She was told that this was a custom deep-rooted in the thought and heart of the people, and that her attempt must necessarily end in failure. Then to concede after the attempt, would be regarded everywhere as a surrender of Christian conscience to heathen prin- ciple; and that would be to wound the body of Christ in a vital part. To all this she replied: "If the gospel we are commissioned to preach is equal to meet the deep- rooted depravity of the human heart, is it unequal to meet a single outshoot of that root? If this is simply a social habit, a matter of taste or even a weakness of judgment, then we are at liberty to concede. But this is a sin, and no more to be tolerated in our school than the sacred images." Her enthusiasm and faith, supported by the strength of her reasons, triumphed. The mission- aries heartily agreed to admit no girls in the school with bound feet. The following paragraphs are fragments gathered from various publications and letters from her pen: "A woman from an old and respected family, who bears herself with the dignity and complacency of a queen, gave herself and her family to God. She brought her two daughters a distance of four hundred miles to put them to school. Being fully convinced that foot-binding is a sin against the Creator and his children, she expected to have her UNBOUND FEET 67 daughters' feet unbound. The new shoes and stockings were brought forth and the process of unbinding began. Then, to the surprise of those who beheld, and probably to the surprise of the old lady herself, a struggle set up in the mother's heart a struggle between the forces of old cus- toms and prejudices and the power of the new faith. Though at first she smiled in happy recog- nition and said, 'God's will be done; let the feet be unbound,' a moment later some power from the past caught away the smile and left a face twitch- ing with emotions and followed by slow tears. With sighs and wringing of hands she walked across the floor to return and beg: 'Unbind only the feet of one and let the other child's remain bound.' Then reproaching herself, she took up her restless walk. Finally, she stood still and said with earnest, sober face : 'Go on ; it shall be done.' Thus ended one of the many contests brought af receiving it, about ten thousand dollars, ASBURY CHURCH, PEKING 151 to build a church that would answer Mission pur- poses for the next twenty years. "If you find it in your power to help us to a new church, you will be sending a broad beam of cheer into the shadows, that will lift us up and strengthen us to a degree that perhaps you little imagine." The appeal was successful. Mr. and Mrs. Game- well came to America and devoted much of their time to this work. He studied plans with the aid of a competent architect, and decided on the erec- tion of a building which should be made chiefly of brick and wood, and which should accommodate fifteen hundred persons. He returned to Peking and superintended the erection of the church. It was when finished not only the most conspicuous architectural feature of the Methodist compound and the center of its life, but also the largest Pro- testant ecclesiastical structure in China. CHAPTER XVII PEKING SUNDAY SCHOOL Mrs. Game well was greatly interested in the Sun- day school and devoted much of her time and strength to it. The following is taken from one of her published leaflets: "At the time of the building of the first Metho- dist church in Peking friends of the missions re- marked, 'You must have large faith if you expect to fill so large a church in your day.' Only a few years passed and a Sunday school of four hundred filled every seat. Every Sunday workers whose hands were full of all sorts of work during the week united in the work of the Sunday school, and the Sunday school early became the chief joy of the Mission. "At first the students from the Mission schools and the Christians and servants of the Mission were the only pupils, but after a while a few children of the neigborhood ventured in. The children had heard their elders call the missionaries 'foreign devils,' and they had been told that foreign devils used children's hearts and eyes to make medicines, so, of course, they were slow to venture within the courts of the foreigner. 152 PEKING SUNDAY SCHOOL 153 "A recruit from New England, Miss Cushman, joined the Mission, and she brought with her a talent for bringing things to pass and a quantity of picture cards. The cards were such as every business house used to issue, combining an adver- tisement and a beautiful picture on each card. She took charge of the class of street children, and she gave to each child a card and promised to give a card to every little girl who should join her class in Sunday school. The cards proved very attrac- tive; then, besides, other children could see for themselves that the first children to attend Sunday school had not lost their hearts or eyes. "They ventured in, in constantly increasing numbers, until at last the class was too large to meet with the rest of the Sunday school. It had to have a room all to itself. Then that room was soon filled to overflowing. The children sat on the seats and on the backs of the seats; they sat on each other's laps; they sat on the floor; they sat on the table and under the table. Indeed, the teacher had to take her place before the children should come in, and when they were all there she had just standing room and no more. And when visitors called the teacher could not move an inch to receive them and they could only look through the door, inside of which there was no room for them, and pass on exclaiming: 'Wonderful! won- derful!* "Finally, the Mission determined to make a whole Sunday school of this one class, and it was done. 154 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL In the morning was the regular Sunday school, with Christian members and students from the mis- sion schools as pupils, and the missionaries as teachers. In the afternoon the children of the neighborhood and any adults who cared to come, were the pupils in another Sunday school and the pupils from the morning Sunday school were the teachers. The afternoon Sunday school became a training school, where the Christian students were brought into contact with those who knew not God and practiced the art of winning them for the Saviour already so dear to their own hearts. "Just here a trouble confronted the Sunday school the supply of cards would soon be gone! A letter was sent to the Woman's Missionary Friend, asking that packages of cards be sent at once by mail, and that cards be collected and sent in boxes by freight later on. There was a grand response to this call from Maine to Mary- land and from the Atlantic to far beyond the Mis- sissippi, and the parcels came pouring in. A mis- sionary received missionary mail in Tientsin and forwarded it to Peking. Ordinarily he hired one donkey for a courier who should make the trip, but when the cards began to come in he filled bags and bags with card parcels and two or three donkeys had to be hired to carry the mail to Peking. In the spring the boxes began to arrive, and before long there was a room in the mission packed from floor to ceiling with boxes, bags and barrels of cards. There were cards great and small; there PEKING SUNDAY SCHOOL 155 were beautiful Christmas and Easter cards, fresh and new; there were rolls of large pictures and there were chromos. The contents of the parcels and boxes were sorted, and the largest and best cards and pictures were kept for extra rewards and for Christmas presents. "Some of the card parcels were accompanied by touching stories, as, for instance, one that came from Michigan. It was sent by a lady, who wrote that she was old and feeble, dependent upon friends and without money of her own, so that when she gave it must be because someone else first gave to her. She had read the call for cards with rejoicing, as if it were an answer given by God to her prayer that in her feeble, shut-in state he would show her how even she could do something for his cause. She had not known that she had anything that she could give, but here was a parcel of beautiful pic- ture cards that had been the delight of a child long since gone to heaven, and therefore very precious to the now aged mother. Thanking God that at last there was something she could give for his cause, she sent the parcel and accompanied it with her prayers. "Is it any wonder that small things like picture cards are made to accomplish such great things when such love and such faith send them on their way? "There were cards for nil comers, and the Sim- day school grew as the class before it had grown. It grew until it filled the church, as the class had 156 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL filled its class room filled it until all the seats were crowded and the aisles, until the altar steps were taken and the platform inside the altar rail. "Then a second trouble threatened. The walls of the church had cracked and now they were bulging and it looked as if the heavy tiled roof might fall in some day, and then there would be no meeting place. Besides, how awful if it should fall while the house was full of children! This second trouble passed in as wonderful a way as did the first. Stays were put against the cracked walls and extra supports under the heavy roof. Then a letter was sent to the homeland, out of which came all supplies and much good cheer. The letter was received by one whose great heart abounded in ways and means of winning men and the contents of their pocketbooks, and by return mail he for- warded the first installment of a sum sufficient to build a church large enough to accommodate the work, as all then thought, for the next twenty years. With the money went also a letter full of cheer and inspiring energy. "In course of time the church was completed, and almost immediately it was filled by the still growing Sunday school. By this time the Sunday school had such fame that it was visited by travel- ers as one of the sights of Peking, and workers of sister denominations seemed to take as much pride in the Sunday school and its beautiful house as if it were all their own ; and all who visited the school said: 'There is nothing else in China like it.' PEKING SUNDAY SCHOOL 15T "The time had been when members of the Mis- sion could not appear outside the Mission walls anywhere in the neighborhood without being hailed by some child at a safe distance, 'Foreign devil! foreign devil!' Now the Sunday school has done its work and the cry heard on every hand is: 'Teacher, teacher, how many days to next Sunday ?' And from over walls of the neighbors' courts a passer in the street may hear childish voices sing- ing 'Jesus loves me, 5 'There is a land fairer than day,' and other hymns learned in the Sunday school, where these children find the -one warmest, brightest, most joyous hour of all the week." CHAPTER XVIII LETTERS TO FRIENDS UNIQUE TRANSPORTATION October, 1891. I have traveled hundreds of miles and had many and varied experiences roving about among the North China churches. But within the present month I have attained to a new experience. I have made two country trips since the middle of October. The second trip took me south of Peking through a district that has been flooded by the breaking of the river banks. The river now runs in a new bed that it has made for itself. There are shallow stretches of water between the north bank and the deeper current. My carter put me into a boat to cross the current. He drove the cart through the rushing water five or six feet from where the boat landed. That six feet of water afforded the new experience. A man wha wore a combination of trousers and stockings made of cow skin with the hair turned in, all dripping as to this garment, and dirty as to the whole of him, but large as to stature, and good-natured, backed up to the boat and said, "Get on my back," or words to that effect, for he spoke in the Chinese tongue. I had 158 LETTERS 159 seen the operation which he evidently had in mind performed on several occasions, but had never no- ticed just how the details were carried out. So I gave way to two Chinese women passengers and let them go first to their cart, while I watched with keen interest the manner of their going. Then came my turn. I placed each hand upon his broad chest, as far from his neck as possible, then crooked my knees into his backward extended palms. The man thus burdened by my weight took three steps, then turned around and backing to the cart de- posited me upon the cushions of the same ! No one laughed or seemed to see anything unusual in all this. Such passages are common in the highways of China, and are viewed with the most matter of course air by women and girls as well as by men. But this was my first passage of the sort. IF MERELY JUST April, 1892. One of my girls spent most of this evening with me, and I was much interested in her questions and remarks. For one, she asked me what I thought of a case where one found her conscience dictating a certain course, and all one's friends dictating the exact opposite, "How can one know just which is right?" I was trying to justify a rather stern course concerning a certain party when she replied: "Yes, but if God were only just, there would not 160 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL be one person left on the earth now." She added: "One must be some yielding and some considerate for the feelings of another. One can't be all just and only just." LOST AT NIGHT In the darkness of the night we lost our way. Bouncing in our cart over plowed ground in search of the road, our ears were assailed by the cry of the carter: "Yes, never mind, only eight more li, honorable lady." Directly we saw a light and drove in that direction, but it was only a grave in the midst of the field with a fire burning on or near it. Things were being burned for the spirits of the dead by the devoted living. We often saw these little fires as we rode over the country. There is something weird about the dancing flames and the dusky figures of those who tend them, as seen in the dim light of the night. Finally we struck the right road and came into An Chia Chuang. HEARTACHE FOE A FRIEND OSWEGO, New York, April 23, 1896. For the first time I have a heartache for you. A sudden sense of loss grasped me as I turned from watching you pass into the statkm waiting room. My eyes fill, as I think of you, my precious friend. Until now the joy of all has dominated all my LETTERS 161 thought of you. Now the sense of loss keeps com- pany with the joy. When I am rested again I shall lose the pain in thankfulness for the rare friend and wonderful love He has given me. CAREFUL FOR NOTHING OSWEGO, May 12, 1896. I know it is possible "to be careful for nothing," and "by prayer and supplication with thanksgiv- ing make your requests known to God," and "the peace of God which passeth understanding shall Iceep your heart and mind through Christ Jesus." The keeping by Jesus is fully set forth in the first to the fifteenth chapter of Saint John. That is the how. The way we are to get is by being careful for nothing. It is possible to "bear all things, believe all things, hope all things, endure all things," and in perfect peace, content, and cheerfulness; but we have our wishes returned to us only when we have given up all. Already given up, Christ will do this. We do not have to fight. We only let go drop stop doing, thinking, planning. Hanging to the edge of a high roof, the child hears the father below say, "Let go." With shut eyes and fear the child obeys, and drops into the father's arms. Then the bliss of quiet content ! It is not a fight unless we are disobedient and knowingly cling to what we must let go before Christ can possess us wholly. 162 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL LOVE STRENGTHENED BY OBEDIENCE TO DUTY MINNEAPOLIS, June 15, 1896. My sister came to this place with me, and is here to see me off. She is so distressed that my heart aches for her all the time. And yet partings have only strengthened the ties between my loved ones and myself. It is the thought J;hat the Mas- ter gave up heaven for earth that takes away the force of a temptation that might oome with the suggestion that this going into a far country is unnatural and unreasonable. Love, after all, must follow the Master without regard to the reason of this world that limits all things to the scope of present joy. Mrs. Gamewell sailed from Vancouver returning to China to rejoin Mr. Gamewell June 22, 1896, on the steamship Empress of Japan. LOVE FOR HER KIN VANCOUVER, British Columbia, June 21, 1896. My last days have been full to the brim. My brother's two older boys joined the church and took a stand that relieves my mind and fills my heart with rejoicing. Then my brother himself gave me comfort by his own attitude. The Master has added many blessings through the days of parting. Once you said something about years weaning brothers and sisters from their first affec- LETTERS 163 tion for each other. With us it has not been so. The long years of separation have intensified the love, made strong the bonds, made more tender the sympathy between us. Some of us with unlike natures, find ourselves being knit together in un- derstanding love by the power of the Master's work through our hearts. No, as I love God more I love my brothers and sisters more, and what they are or are not has nothing to do with the fact of the love existing in my heart, -and the same power of love working in my heart makes the friendships more precious. SORROW OF PARTING STEAMSHIP EMPRESS OF JAPAN, NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN, July 1, 1896. Yes, the last days seemed to me all that I could bear and not break. Of course I knew I should bear because it was not my strength that must carry the burden of it all. I love to think how near the Master comes to those on whom sorrow rests for his sake. That is the sweetness of it all for his sake. My faith failed in a degree, and I was not as strong as I slxmld have l>cen at the last. But here comes the reconciling comfort of it all. He never fails. He always helps. He cared more than I could. If I failed to l>c ready for his use, he, nevertheless, found some instrument for his use and he surely comforted and helped. I lost an 164 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL opportunity. But the gracious help was furnished another in time of need. Oh, the comfort that comes in the sight of the sense of failure when we realize that our lost opportunities are not neces- sarily lost to others. SUNLIT HILLS HILLS FIFTEEN MILES WEST or PEKING, August 20, 1896. I saw the sun light up the tops of the hills west of us this morning while yet the hills to the east hid the sun himself from view. That means that I was out of bed and on the veranda by five o'clock this morning. I should love to take you out on our veranda to look about. In front the plain with its fields of standing grain, and here and there a clump of trees marking a burying ground or temple premises. To the right and to the left, spurs of hills that run out to meet the plain and from the half circle into which our houses are packed and right up the mountainside. Behind us the mountains and the sky meet several hundred feet above the level of our house, which stands highest up the mountainside. GOD IN ALL So also, it seems to me, it would be self-pity for me to mourn any separation or other circumstance of this life because of what it brought to me or LETTERS 165 deprived me of. I truly rejoice to believe that the Master controls each event as it comes. I am so glad that he is in it all, that nothing seems severe as far as / am concerned. Sometimes for the mo- ment, I do not think of all this glad lesson that he has been teaching me for years, and so for the moment, self-pity enters in; but, truly, any grief that endures comes only from the fact that some whom I love do not rest all things in Christ's hands, and so live in his peace; and therefore they suffer because of my movements, and I suffer because I am the immediate cause of their suffering. But I am learning to rest this trouble also with him. It has rested there most of the time, but sometimes thoughts of my loved ones sweep in and catch me not securely anchored. Then there is sadness for a season. CREDIT CHRIST, NOT ME Something in your letters makes me want to write something about this. You credit me with much that positively never was in me, for it is Christ fulfilling his promise in spite of the natural self that I know myself to be. If you think what you see to be me, my "born" self, you lose the good you might get from the right. If Christ cnn do such work in me, what great hope there is for any other mortal ! Please do not read anything to my credit in these words. Please let them glorify the Master only. 166 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL JOY OF CONTACT WITH LIFE PEKING, September 7, 1896. I have lived a busy life for about twenty-five years without much time for intellectual pursuits outside of the studies incident to my missionary work; but I enjoy contact with the other life as I enjoy the woods and fields and solitudes that are left on the other side of the ocean when I come again to my post. THE PULPIT AND POLITICS PEKING, October 1, 1896. The political situation interests me more than I can tell. 1 1-ove my country intensely, and so many dangers threaten her. They gather closer around with each succeeding year. Hidden hostile powers are at work as well as the outbreaking lawlessness and greed of gain at the expense of all else, that show their heads more and more boldly. God is over all. If the nation trusts him and owns his power, all is well. But will the nation continue to serve him as a nation? I believe so much about churches keeping out of politics is of the prince of darkness. If church people do not assemble to worship God as a preparation for keeping his law and doing his service as a nation as well as individuals, what is the use of a church in the world? The pulpit need not declare for any one party in order to send its people out to act on principle, to the overthrow of powers that antagonize the welfare of the nation, the municipality, and the home. LETTERS 167 DEPRESSION A depressed spirit of foreboding envelops my being and presses upon my consciousness. It seems likely that the expected mail will bring bad news. Intense sadness seems to seize all my unoccupied moments. If life were totally ineffective and effort vain, I might feel as something seems trying to make me feel today instead of the steady calm with which my soul recognizes God, and his steady power in whom every effort is full of hopeful meaning. The spirit may not fail today, but it will not soar. Written on the following day: EXULTATION A buoyant spirit catches me on light feet and swings with easy step through the day. Every- thing comes easy. My spirits rise and rise like a bottle of yeast, and my head may pop off with exhilaration ! Later. The clouds that have been gathering all day are pouring grateful draughts upon the thirsty earth. The trees toss their arms and wave their leaves in glad enjoyment, and every shrub and plant is bursting with intense delight. Ah, yesterday we were tried and scraped witli a sand- paper wind in lifeless air; today grateful moisture and dewy freshness soothes the nerves, and lubri- cates all the squeaking screws of one's system. So Nature's moods depress or lift. Yesterday was 168 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL bright, today it rains ! Yesterday the wheels drave heavily ; today we fly on light wing ! IN A CHINESE INN SOUTH OF PEKING, November 6, 1896. I am to resume my old work of conducting a training school for women. My plan is to visit the village churches and invite such women as seem fitted for the school to come to Peking for six months' instruction. I am out on such a trip now. When this trip is made I shall open school and settle to regular work. FLOOD It seems now as if I am to be delayed and pos- sibly defeated in the carrying out of this trip. A river, that lies between Peking and my objective point, has broken its banks and inundated the country to such an extent that carts cannot travel the road. I have spent this day, from 8:30 A. M. to 4 :30 P. M., making this point, twenty miles dis- tant. Here we learn that our cart cannot progress beyond three or four more miles. Our only resort is to hire a donkey for me to ride and let the cart mule carry my bedding and food on its back. Just here the carter came in to find out what I propose for tomorrow. I am very loth to return to Peking, yet that is what I am intending to do. I have sat in the lumbering cart through this day, and have been covered thick with a fine, gray dust. Now, LETTERS 169 half way to my journey's end, to turn back is much against my nature; but if I do not, all I can do is to leave the cart here and ride a donkey for twenty miles, in the course of which journey there are three rivers to cross, and thick mud between the river banks and the water, and many other serious obstacles to such a course. I would take the don- key and go through only I would not be in condi- tion to do the work that I have in mind as the object of this trip after such fatigue. Then there is likely to set in one of our North China cold dust storms from the northwest at any time. I am trav- eling alone. If a gentleman were with me, we would not think of anything but going on. DRESS You would be amused to see how I am dressed. I have one of the American storm suits to begin with. The skirt eight inches from the ground, a shirt-waist, and an Eton jacket, and blue leggings to match the suit. Then inside my shoes I have chamois slippers ; under my jacket and waist I have a chamois-lined silk waist, and the warmest of flannels. I have bloomers under my short skirt. Then to finish off with, I have on a Chinese wadded garment that covers me to the edge of my short skirt, and on my head a Chinese storm hood. I brought with me a hot water bottle and several blankets, a cotton mattress and wadded cover, and, besides, a fur-lined coat ! 170 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL ALONE IN THE INN I am sitting now in a room about ten by ten and without fire. Half of the floor space is occu- pied by a brick platform that is about as high as an ordinary chair. On this platform my bed is made up. The upper half of the front of my room is lattice covered with paper. The lower half is built of brick. The floor is level with the court outside and is paved with brick. The papered door opens immediately into the court, and in the court are the carts and animals of the travelers. The court is no better than an ordinary stable court. Generally, the walls between these rooms, each of which opens right into the court, are solid, but this time I find a square of paper-covered lattice between me and the occupants of the next room. I took a brick from the floor to set against a hole in the paper and filled a smaller hole with a wad of paper. These are peculiar surroundings for a lone woman, twenty miles from the habitation of our kind. Yet I feel safer here than I would in an equally rough place in America. The Chinese will do nothing to disturb me. A VISITOR Just here there was a pull at my door and an animated face looked in, then the whole person came forward. A young woman from the next room came in to see what I was doing ! She leaned on the table before me and talked freely and cheer- fully. It seems that as a child she used to go to LETTERS 171 the preaching in a missionary chapel in her native town. She has married and had moved to her hus- band's home. Now she is going to her native town for a visit after an absence of four years. She said to me: "You just come to our town and I will bring a whole court full of people to see you." As she talked a man's voice on the other side of the latticed partition joined in, and we had a pleasant chat. Now she has gone. In the midst of my writing of the above the carter came in to say that by going a long way around he could get me to my desired station, only we will have to finish our journey Sabbath morn- ing, whereas I expected to get in on Saturday evening. However, I am glad I shall not have to return to Peking without having accomplished my errand. Isn't this a good beginning for a diary letter? I shall have to close it for the present and give some time to replying to a number of letters that came with yours. AMERICAN FLAG Did I tell you that when Mr. Gamewell and I came up the river from Tientsin, in a houseboat on my return from the States, that we flew your little flag at the stern of our boat? My love and longing for my country increases with the years. I long to have God's purposes fulfilled in her. I hope he may never have to destroy the nation to save the people. "My native country, . . . Thy name I love." 172 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL OVEE A FI/OODED COUNTEY Since writing yon last evening I have slept on the brick bed with a hot water bottle to warm me and my bedding. I rose at five, and was on the road by half -past six. Tumbling and jerking our clumsy way along, we came through a district that has been flooded and now lies tracked and fur- rowed, a waste of sand and mud, two or three feet deep. We passed a village that was in ruins, all fallen in before the flood that had subsided, but which left a stream pouring through where was once a village street. All signs of streets are gone, and the ruins are covered a foot or two deep with mud left by the subsiding waters. When the river broke its banks a rapid stream made a bed for itself through a district that lies in the way from Peking to the place I am trying to reach. We came to the stream at noon today. A boat put off from the opposite bank where the current ran swifter. My carter drove up into the water to meet the boat. As we stood watching the boat from a strip of land that emerged from the land it was an odd scene that was transacted before our eyes. Away out on the near side of the rapid current, to be sure, but in the midst of the water, the boat discharged its passengers! Some came tramping and splashing in with trousers rolled to the highest possibility. Others came on the backs of bare- legged waders. A wader took the lead of our mule and piloted our carts and all clear across the stream. The LETTERS 173 water rose very high around us and almost flooded the cart, but I was so glad to be relieved from the necessity of taking passage on that boat that I did not think of the water with any dread. Just here the carter came in to arrange for to- morrow and to get money to pay inn charges. Here I am, far removed from friends and among Chinese travelers and other inn people, yet I am secure. This carter is a stranger to me, though known to some members of our Mission. He brings in my baggage, calls for water for me, pays my bill, calls me in the morning, and is entirely respon- sible and to be depended upon to get me to my journey's end. He was so anxious about the seem- ing frustration of my plan and probability of having to return to Peking without having reached my objective point that he spent yesterday even- ing in running through the streets to different inns looking for carters from this direction that he might learn surely of the condition of the roads. He spent so much time going about that he did not get any supper, and had nothing to eat until today at eleven o'clock. He found a carter who had come from here and who told him about the roads, and so we came on. I wanted to be at our chapel at Han Tsun to spend this night and be ready for the Sabbath service there. I never before was obliged to arrive on the Sabbath day. I am sorry enough. I shall be off by five in the morning, and hope to arrive at nine, and be in time to avoid dis- turbing any meeting by my arrival. . . . 174 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL I am in an inn that is about fifteen miles from my Peking home. CAUSE OF THE FLOOD Since I have written so much of this trip for you, I must give you the sequel. I reached my destination about half -past nine Sunday morning. I got settled before meeting time; attended meet- ing; spent most of the afternoon talking to the women and the native helper, then spent the evening with the helper, making plans for women to come to Peking. This helper tells me that the floods came because the people cut the banks of the river! The railroad from Tientsin to Peking is to pass this way. The embankment was nearly completed. The tele- graph poles make a straight line through the coun- try, following the lines to be taken by the trains. The cutting of the banks is currently reported to be at the instigation of a high-grade official, whose special duty is to keep the river within its banks. He hates the railroads. As the cutting was at a point that let the floods sweep against the embank- ment, destroying it for a long distance, it is easy to believe the story exactly correct. AN UNTRAINED CONSCIENCE Perhaps I have told you of a teacher who told in class meeting that when he was ill his heathen mother brought him a bowl containing medicine over which a charm had been said. He must honor his mother, so he could not tell her he would not LETTERS 175 take it; he only asked her to place it beside him, and after his mother left the room he poured it into a hole under the brick platform on which his bed was made. When his mother came he told her he had taken it, and now he wanted to thank God and acknowledge his mercy, because his mother did not find out that he had not taken the dose, but poured it under the bed. CHRISTIANS FOR GAIN When I see how the hope of gain brings false hearts into the church, how the amounts (though insignificant in our sight) used to forward our work seem so great to these poor people, and inspires hopes and desires to make some of the dollars thoir own, how the money we use seems to stand between us and the people we would reach, by force of the bad motives it creates, I am almost discouraged. But the women who come to me with such motives return to their homes with a better idea than they had when they first came. They have learned what it means to sacrifice for the gospel's sake. I think they think of giving rather than of gaining. Even in providing ordinary comfort we give the impression of wealth that inspires greed of gain that destroys the little light that may have flickered in such hearts. Then with such cramped, narrow, comfortless modes of life known in the homes of this people there is danger of creating feelings of needs wliich they have no means of satisfying. 176 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL Then, if these things be successfully guardeH against, we are still in danger of giving the im- pression of great wealth by what seems to us most modest expenditure, and so lead the people to be looking for chances to get a part of the wealth for personal use. This may give some idea of the perplexities that gather about our work at every stage, and yet are not often mentioned. BABES IN CHRIST Well, it is just so about the reception af the gospel in all directions among the heathen. We come telling the glad story, heralding a great de- liverance, announcing a great light. We know the full meaning of the story, we know how great the deliverance, we know how glorious the light, but we forget how often we have heard the story; we forget that we always knew of the great deliverance and that the knowledge has made us largely what we are; we forget that the light has flooded all our way. And so we expect the heathen to rejoice and abound in works of gratitude as we should if, knowing all and desiring all, yet deprived of all, it were suddenly brought into our lives. Missionaries learn that it is not enough that the heathen Jiear. Hearing all, they understand only in part. The understanding requires growth. And want of full understanding allows wrong motives and false views to guide many days and acts. The converted heathen is an infant indeed; and some seem never to outgrow their infancy. LETTERS 177 IDEALIZED PEKING, February 26, 1897. I do smile in mixed sadness and amusement to see how you idealize me and my doings. I used to have a feeling of insecurity, as if on a pedestal from which I must sooner or later have a fall, but I am growing accustomed to the precarious posi- tion and to a sense of security from the assurance that the same love that put me there is supporting me in stable equilibrium, and so far from falling, I cannot get down if I would! SANTA CLAUS I have recently read criticisms concerning Santa Claus that contain suggestions worth attention, I think. It is possible to carry the merry-making idea too far now, and the Christ Child does seem neglected in the putting of Santa Claus so promi- nently to the front on the very anniversary of His birth. The Santa Claus idea would be a difficult one to explain to a people who have a kitchen god to propitiate once a year, and many -other deified men in their pantheon. The plan of giving to the poor on Christmas seems to give the Sunday school more pleasure than elaborate preparations for the pupils alone. It certainly puts Christmas empha- sis in the right place. ... I found a class of twelve women. I dismissed all but five by the end of January, and gave all my time to the latter. 178 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL DUST STORM UNDER THE BANK OF THE PEI Ho IN A DUST STORM, Noon, April 21, 1897, In all my travel in China for the past twenty-five years I now for the first time encounter a North China dust storm on the river. That so common an experience should have been so long escaped is due to the fact that I have generally chosen a more certain, if more tiresome, Peking cart for my jour- ney rather than a slow river boat. The carts move on in spite of the worst dust storm. I have been in carts when the dust was so thick at times that the lead mule of the tandem team was invisible be- cause of the cloud of dust in which we moved! Boats become unmanageable in high winds. High out of the water and flat bottomed, they are likely to capsize, so they must tie up. From noon yes- terday until noon today the air has been thick with dust. All yesterday afternoon the sun was obscured by the dust until the light was dim like twilight. The wind howled, and the water was high against the boat, boiling from bank to bank. Swash, rush, roar, rattle and bang the incessant noises have kept up for twenty-four hours. I have on my bed a honeycomb bedspread. The dust settled there as everywhere else so thick that the irregularities of the pattern were filled in and obliterated under the fine covering of gray dust, fine like fine flour. I held the paper I read on a slant to prevent a cover- ing of dust from obscuring the print. Some were LETTERS 179 highly colored Home Journals. The covers were so thickly covered with dust that all coloring was invisible. The floor under my feet, the trunks, chairs, and everything in the boat were padded at least a quarter of an inch thick with the sifting, gray, all-pervading dust. I tied my head up in a double thickness of white cotton a flour bag by the way. Presently I stopped to pick up something, and there was a landslide from the top of my head a very great quantity of moving sand in the shape of dust had lodged. I covered myself with a close-woven waterproof, that answers very well the purpose of a duster. I drew on my gloves and have worn them constantly. It is inconvenient to write with gloves on, but the gloves save the irrita- tion that contact of the hands with dust produces. When I retired last night I removed my waterproof and shook -off the covering of dust from the bed, and with head still tied up crawled in. Pillows, bed, and all else were soon covered again with the gray dust, thick and fine. I could not uncover food and have it fit to eat, so I satisfied myself until evening with a piece of sweet chocolate and some raisins. Then I had a cup of coffee and some bread and butter. By keep- ing the cup upside down until the moment I could pour and drink, and by spreading the butter on the bread under cover of a sheet of paper, I managed to get a lunch without -very much dust. 180 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL THE GEEAT WALL October 9, 1899. I am two days distant by cart from Peking, and a very rough road lies between. It is through the north pass and penetrates the Great Wall which lies in view from the road, rising over mountain peaks and descending into valleys in a most marvelous manner. Battlemented towers add to the pic- turesqueness of its outline. Tomorrow I start home, and travel another two days through pic- turesque scenes that would be more enjoyable if there were not so much dust and wind. IN A CAMEL INN I was somewhat belated at noon on the way up, and, accordingly, did not reach the usual nooning place. Instead, my cart drew into a camel inn. While I was there hundreds of camels came and went, feeding at long stone troughs laid end to end under the edge >of the terrace. On the terrace half a dozen men were kept busy, cutting fodder for the animals. The feed storehouses lay close under the shoulder of the mountain that rose at that point. It was too poor a place to be called by so poor a name as a hut. Half the floor place was occupied by an earth platform beaten hard to the height of about two and a half feet. It was from side to side of the room and backed against the back wall. They had made ready for me by spreading a LETTERS 181 clean straw mat over this substitute for bed, chairs, and table. The mat was not large enough to con- ceal a heap of most vile-looking cotton. It was gray and black and lumpy with much use, and looked as if it might crawl. But it didn't. So I ate my lunch and tried not to see more than I had to. A sudden noise made me turn as I stood and ate. There was a huge camel just at the door. He had thrust open the door in an attempt to munch a broom on which still hung some grains of broom corn. If he had come in, there would have been no room for me. Fortunately he was tied by a strong rope made fast to a skewer thrust through his nose ; besides, his humps rose much higher than the door. Even he must have seen that to enter was impossible, as it was undesirable. A GIFT OF EGGS Today I visited a village near here to call upon a possible candidate for the training school. On leaving, the old lady insisted on presenting me with about one hundred eggs! With sublime inconse- quence she insisted upon my acceptance in spite of the bouncing and bumping that she knew lay be- tween me and my Peking home. I protested as I had no fancy for a baptism of eggs for myself or my belongings. Finally she put about two dozen into a little bag and ran after me to the cart with them. The carter did not fancy the gift more than I did. He no doubt had visions of a cart damaged by broken eggs. The Chinese preacher was with 182 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL us. He was about to mount his donkey. The carter said : "Give the eggs to the preacher. They will make a soft seat for him." Finally the carter put an end to the contest by placing the bag of eggs into the bosom of his voluminous garment, and his tightly drawn girdle kept them in place. MISEBY IN A TEA-HOUSE Later. Now I do wish you could see me. No words can do the situation justice, yet I shall try to give you a peep into it. Maybe I thought the hut a few days ago the bottom notch of misery ! Today I have learned that one had not reached the last possibility of discomfort if one at the end of a dusty, rough, exhausting day of travel, may have a room to one's self, even if the room be a hut and surrounded by munching dust-ladened camels. Today at noon my cart drew up at a wayside inn, where I had been told I could get some sort of a room and hot water for my coffeepot and feed for the mule. What I found was a smoke-black- ened shed, with whole front open, full of men, some smoking. A big pot was set in low masonry against an earthen, brick-paved platform, through which a flue under the pot made its way. I was hot, dusty, and tired almost to the point of exhaustion. Oh for a room and a few minutes of quiet! They spread some bedding that looked as if it had not been washed in ten years on this hot k'ang, LETTERS 183 or brick bed, and invited me to mount and rest. And the crowd meant to have a good look at me. I had come thump, bump, jerk and rattle-bang half way down this picturesque but rough pass. The only mitigating circumstance of the situation was a soft-voiced woman who took me by the hand and said in so kind a tone : "You are so very tired ; do rest." I sat on a box and rested my head upon my arms thrown over my traveling bag which stood on the edge of that ovenlike k'ang, to which all voices invited my unwilling body to rest. So I sat, and old as I am, and experienced as I think I am, I could not prevent a few tears wetting that same bag. But my eyes were shut and so the dirt and horror were shut out. I remembered that it was just the hour for our noonday prayer meeting in Peking, and the memory let in many restful thoughts. I lifted my head, mounted the k'ang and proceeded to open my lunch. A MINISTERING SPIRIT Home. I wrote these last pages seated on the k'ang in that wayside tea shed. The lovely woman sat beside me much interested in seeing me write. She wanted to know what it was all about. I told her I was telling my sister about her kindness to me. She asked: "Is your sister in Peking?" She was much impressed when I told her of the long journey the letter must make to reach you. 184 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL In the painting of "Christ before Pilate" by Munkacsy, an impressive feature is a sweet-faced woman who holds a baby and stands in a corner, looking timidly and yet so kindly at Christ. Some- thing about this gentle woman in that wayside shed reminded me of that face in the picture, both in striking contrast with their surroundings, both furnishing a sweet note in the midst of a very harsh discord. CHAPTER XIX HER STORY OF THE SIEGE THE GATHERING STORM This and all subsequent chapters relating to the siege are entirely from the pen of Mrs. Gamewell. In a scrapbook among notes and letters and other matter connected with the Peking situation of 1900 I have a telegram that reads: TIENTSIN, June 6, 1900. GAMEWELL, Peking: Railroad interrupted. Other approaches unsafe. Wait We had leave of absence. The school year was ended. The North China Conference convened in Peking had closed its sessions, and our trunks were packed for the journey to America. Certain school and mission matters demanded his attention, so Mr. Gamewell proposed to remain a day or two longer in Peking and to send me with a Conference party to Tientsin to await him there. I did not get off with that party, and so was spared the strain en- dured by those who at Tientsin and elsewhere for long weeks watched for some word from husbands, wives, parents, children, or friends shut within walls from whence came no message to a waiting world. 186 186 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL Mad crowds and burning stations threatened the train on which Conference people rushed through to Tientsin. Then came the telegram. In the last of May I had stood in Legation Street and witnessed the arrival of a contingent of foreign troops. They were the last arrivals of a force of four hundred and fifty soldiers who were sent from the war vessels at Ta Ku to Peking, in response to a call from the Minister. After the departure of the Conference party, though the stations were destroyed, there was hope that the destruction would go no further, and Minister Conger told us that he was sending a party from the Legation under escort of the sol- diers, to the station, hoping to find there, sooner or later, a train to Tientsin. We expected to join that party. In the scrapbook with the telegram is a note from Minister Conger that proved to be the end of that expectation. In the note he tells of a telegram of the same import as ours, received by himself, and his note closes with what was also the final word of the telegram "Wait." Who then dreamed that we should wait seventy-six days, or imagined in any degree the. character of the events that were to crowd those intense days? A later telegram from Tientsin announced that Tsun Hua was in danger. Two missionaries of our number, whose families were in Tsun Hua, armed themselves, said hurried good-bys, mounted their horses, and sallied forth into the disturbed streets, hoping to reach the station and find a train that HER STORY OF THE SIEGE 187 would take them to Tientsin, from whence they might make a swift trip to Tsun Hua. But the wrecking of the railroad was begun. The riders found no train, and were soon again with those who with apprehension had seen them set out, to watch with them the gathering storm. One day a man hurried into -our courts and ac- costed the first person he met. He was haggard and travel-stained, and he clutched nervously at his garments and looked anxiously about as he talked. "Has no one of my family arrived ?" was his inquiry at the beginning and at the end of the tale he told. The same tale was told by most of the refugees that were daily increasing in number within our gates and within the gates of every other mission in the city : attack, destruction of property, flight, separation, agony of uncertainty. A student of the university and his mother hid in the standing corn while the persecutors burned their home and hunted for them. Then in the darkness, not daring to call to each other, they were separated. The student arrived in Peking and not finding his mother there, was bent on returning to look for her, but a later arrival said, "Too late." In his flight he had passed the dead body of the missing mother. Day by day the tales of violence increased in horror. Gentlemen who were in the streets of Peking in the days close upon the great crash, reported that everywhere signs were hung out: "Swords Made Here." And it was also re- 188 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL ported that the steel rails from the destroyed rail- roads were used in the manufacture of the big Boxer swords. If true, it was a queer reversal of the Scripture saying that swords shall be beaten into plowshares and pruning hooks. The Boxer movement swept close upon the city, and, finally, Boxers were practicing within the city walls. We heard their sinister horns and thought of the big swords, and wondered. We wondered also about the imperial troops which were swarming through the gates and whose banners streamed from the city wall. From the Legation we heard of the calls for help that were coming from Pao Ting Fu. Then one day some of the friends from Tung Chou, twelve miles away, arriving in Peking called at our Mis- sion, and we heard how the Annual Meeting of the North China Congregational Mission, held at Tung Chou, had closed in the midst of thickening danger, and how Dr. Ament, departing from Pe- king in the night, had taken a train of carts to Tung Chou, and made possible the flight thence to Peking, of the missionaries and the native Chris- tians in their charge. On the destruction of the railroad, the Ministers in the Legations united in another call for troops, and asked the authorities in Tientsin to send a force large enough to make a safe escort for foreign women and children from Peking to Tientsin. Among the last letters that drifted in before communication with the outside world was finally HER STORY OF THE SIEGE 189 cut off was a letter which told how in a council called in Tientsin to consider the request from Pe- king for more troops, Captain McCalla had arisen and said : "My Minister says that he is in danger. I am going to his relief. If anyone wants to go along, come on." We thrilled with the further recital of how British troops had charged down the platform and cleared the way, and a train pulled out of Tientsin with a machine gun on a truck in front of the engine, and sixteen hundred troops in the coaches behind the engine. Thenceforward the coming of the troops was the foremost hope of every heart, and the day of their arrival the objec- tive point of all our activities. Through long days and weary nights of increasing peril watch was kept for the troops that never came. Following the arrival of foreigners and native Christians from Tung Chou, there was a running to and fro between Missions and Legation, and finally out of this movement a plan was evolved, in accordance with which all American missionaries, except Miss Douw and three in the Legation, with the native Christians in their charge, assembled in the compound of the Methodist Mission, and Minis- ter Conger sent twenty soldiers from his guard of fifty, who, commanded by Captain Hall, undertook to hold the place until the additional troops should arrive. Hearts beat high with patriotic pride when we beheld the boys in blue march in and take possession of the house put at their disposal. Their presence 190 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL was the touch of a hand from the homeland, strong to deliver and to comfort us, voluntary exiles in a far country. Mr. Gamewell had, early in the progress of affairs, called masons and built solid brick work over the outside of all gates in our walls that could be dispensed with, thus providing against their being fired by the Boxers, who were daily assuming a more threatening attitude in the city. He also had barbed wire stretched across the courts to pre- vent a rush of the enemy in case they should break into our premises. After the coming of the soldiers the work of fortifying went on briskly. Walls were built across the wide compound and deep ditches were dug beyond the barbed wire checks. Every- thing possible was done to make the church secure and habitable, so that even if the courts were over- run, we might be able to hold ont and make a good defense from the church. The frames and glass were removed from the windows, and the spaces built in with brick and loopholed. Large quantities of bricks were piled on the roof to be hurled upon any attacking party that might venture near. Drains were let into the church ; its doors were covered with irom to protect them from torches. Trunks were piled in the en- trances ready to barricade the doors. Water was boiled in big cauldrons set on furnaces built in the yard, and the water so purified, was stored in the church in barrellike jars brought in for the pur- pose. Hundreds of boiled eggs, stacks of Chinese HER STORY OF THE SIEGE 191 biscuits, and cases -of condensed milk were provided against the time when we might be shut indefinitely into the church. Barricades were built across the streets in front and rear, and platforms were con- structed on the inner surface of our walls for the sentinels. The material for all this work was taken from brick walls and partition walls, and it often had to be carried from one extreme of the Mission premises to the other. Boys and women carried bricks piled on their clasped hands or in their up- turned garments. Sometimes they staggered with loads in baskets swung on poles, and the poles on their shoulders. In the procession there were little mites of children with pathetically serious faces, toddling in the long line, each carrying one brick, or two, or three, according to its strength. There was work for all, and even the babies shared the labor. It is contrary to Chinese ideas of propriety that a student or educated gentleman should dig, but our students, teachers, and preachers took a cheer- ful share in all the hard labor. There was only one exception that I ever heard -of. A student when asked to dig in a ditch held back in genteel sur- prise. There was no time for persuasion ; military discipline was the order of the day, so the demur was met with a prompt "Dig or go out into the streets." The surprise was not lessened by this command. "Why, in the streets they will kill me," the student exclaimed. "Very likely," was the grim reply. Questioning eyes looked into determined 192 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL eyes for a moment. Then the student went into the ditch, a wiser and better man. Two missionaries of the London Mission, with refugee Chinese Christians, joined our number, and the British Minister, Sir Claude McDonald, sent over a number of rifles. Thereupon a company of missionaries were armed with the rifles and each appointed to his particular post. Then a sergeant of the guards put these missionary soldiers through a regular drill every day. The missionaries and Chinese gathered into our courts were many times the number that the build- ings were designed to accommodate. There was sufficient bedding, however, for the missionaries, though obliged to abandon most of their posses- sions, brought with them their trunks and bedding. Beds were spread upon all available floors until all were accommodated ; five ladies on the floor in one room, a family in another room, three gentlemen with one bed and the floor their only accommodation in another room, and so on until everybody had a resting place, however limited. Then the occupants of the overflowing houses divided themselves into housekeeping groups ac- cording to the number of kitchens available. Men with guns protected those who went into the streets to procure supplies for the tables. While some attended to all these affairs others were busy look- ing after the nearly seven hundred Chinese within our gates. They provided for all possible in the schoolrooms and Chinese houses. They put up HER STORY OF THE SIEGE 193 pavilions in the courts for the great company for whom there was no cover elsewhere. They brought in food supplies and arranged for the feeding of the multitude. Urgent activity filled all the days, and much questioning and uncertainty added to the wear and tear. In our courts one heard varying opinions on almost every phase of our situation. One group discussed solemnly whether they should not have remained in their own Mission and if they might not thereby have saved their own and Mission prop- erty. There were those who confidently expected the speedy arrival of the troops, and who still be- lieved that this storm, like many another, would blow over. Some believed that the safety of the Chinese, whose number was constantly increasing within out gates, lay in their being scattered as remote as possible from foreigners, while others as intensely urged that their only chance to escape destruction was to abide with the foreigners. In this connection occurred an incident that illus- trates a phase of Chinese character. During those days of dire uncertainty I went into a kitchen where our cook was then cooking for a combination of odd ends of families that crowded that particular house, and said to him that now was his chance to escape. I offered him money to take himself and family out of the city, and I warned him that as things then looked he would probably be killed if he stayed among the foreigners. lie turned and looked quietly at me while I spoke, his dark eyes 194 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL glowing in a face already lean and careworn, then said: "The lady herself is not going, is she?" "No." "She is not afraid to die?" "No." "Neither am I. I shall not go." His choice probably saved his life, but he did not know it at the time of choosing. He was a church member, though not much esteemed for pure piety, but when tried by the strokes of those ter- rible days he rung true, and true he was to the end. He followed our fortunes into the Legation, and was our cook there. A large and ancient tree, which the children, who in times of peace played in its shade or perched among its branches, called the giant tree, stood in the midst of our court. The trunk of the great tree was made a bulletin board, and on it were tacked all notes, messages, or bits of news that reached us from the rapidly contracting world without. During the busy days many a pause was made before this bulletin board with hope of finding there some word concerning the coming troops. CHAPTER XX REFUGE IN THE METHODIST COMPOUND In my scrapbook is a letter from United States Minister Conger whose contents were spread one day upon the bulletin. It reads as follows : June 13, 1900. MY DEAR MR. GAMEWELL: A note just received from Captain McCalla written at 4 P. M. yesterday, reports him with 1,600 men of all nationalities at Lang Fang (thirty miles from Peking), pushing on as fast as they can repair the road. That was the last that Peking heard of McCalla and the relief corps for many a long day. Let- ters were sent to meet him, but the bearers were turned back unable to make a way through the disturbed country. The day of the letter was also the day of the burning of our street chapel, a few minutes walk from the Mission premises. A great crowd gathered, and when they turned from the destroyed chapel, seemed inclined to come our way. To prevent such danger Captain Hall called eight of his men and charged up the street, whereupon the crowd fled. When they returned a soldier re- marked : "It was the yell the boys let out that sent the crowd flying." That night the skies were lurid with fires started wherever there was foreign property that could be destroyed. The shops of Chinese who sold foreign 195 196 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL drugs or other imported goods were Included in the great destruction. A startling spectacle burst upon the city when the conflagration caught the great structure over the chief gate of the city a gate opened only for the ruler of the people. It seemed an awesome symbol of the self-destruction of the Manchu dynasty. After the burning of the property of the Congre- gational Mission Dr. Ament ventured into the neighborhood looking for any of his people who might be in hiding there and needing help. On his return he was followed by a boy, who, as Dr. Ament was about to enter the Methodist Mission gate, came forward and begged, "Oh, sir, take me in with you." He was forlorn and dirty past recognition. "I am your Sunday school pupil," he pleaded, and he told how the shopkeeper to whom he was apprenticed had turned him into the street lest the Boxers should attack him for har- boring one who frequented the habitations of the hated foreigners. As he talked Dr. Ament grad- ually discovered in the haggard and grimy counte- nance the lineaments of a familiar face. The gate opened to him and he sank contented upon a nearby bench his wandering and peril among the horrors of the streets were ended. It was this same lad, who afterward in the darkness of night, left the Legation lines and, let down over the city wall by means of a rope, made his way to Tientsin and back, and brought word to the besieged from the outside world. HER STORY OF THE SIEGE 197 In the vicinity of the many fires which raged, fearful deeds were done, and heroic rescue parties issued from Legation lines and brought in muti- lated victims who yet survived the slaughter; but of all this we in the Mission heard little, until the fury of the storm swept us all soldiers, diplomats, customs people, students, travelers, correspondents, priests and people, missionaries and native Chris- tians within the Legation lines. We had a hint of such matters now and then in the notes which Minister Conger sent tcr us almost every day. In one he wrote: "The British killed seven Boxers in the streets today. They are learning that they are not invulnerable." No doubt that the fame of our fortifications and a fear of what was being prepared behind the Mission walls operated to delay an attack, and lessons such as the above must have given check to what might otherwise have been swift destruction. A characteristic story from the camps of the enemy drifted our way. It was to the effect that it was reported among the Boxers that a strange being had come from foreign lands for our pro- tection, and had lighted upon the dome of the church in our midst; and their leaders announced that many additional days of practice would be necessary to give the Boxers power to overcome this strange being and prepare them for successful at- tack. We looked up at the soldier on the peak of the church dome, where an outlook was kept during those first days of riot and bloodshed. It seemed 198 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL quite possible that the trim figure outlined there against the sky, and appearing in magnified pro- portion, should look fearsome to the unaccustomed eyes of the natives, and appeal powerfully to their superstitions. Not only on the church, but all around the walls, on the barricades and up and down the courts, the soldiers kept guard da} 7 and night a band of twenty between the helpless in- mates of the Mission and the destroying thousands without. A watch was kept against incendiaries. The Christians covered their heads with white cloth that the soldiers might distinguish them from any who might approach our lines with hostile in- tentions. The young men of Peking University, because of their command of the English language, were appointed tor stand with the sentinels. When a challenge rang out in English the Chinese com- rades of the sentinel immediately repeated it in Chinese and so warned every approaching party of his danger. On dark nights and in beating rains, as well as through fair days and moonlit nights, the constant vigil was kept. Our students evidently gloried in comradeship with the brave men in uniform whose presence gave cheer to foreigner and Chinese alike. There were three students who were appointed to a hazardous undertaking, which appointment, for obvious reasons, was not made public. When an attack should press to overwhelm us these students Were to drop from different parts of the Mission walls, find a way through the attacking force, and HER STORY OF THE SIEGE 199 run to the Legation to bring promised reinforce- ments. They knew that three were appointed to insure that one might succeed, and that it was not expected that all would survive the attempt, yet with good courage they girded themselves and watched for the signs that should signal the be- ginning of the desperate race. One day I met our captain in the midst of our transformed courts and told him that I should be glad to serve in case of an attack anywhere and in any capacity that he might suggest. I was thinking of parts taken by women in the fights of pioneer days, and that perhaps the captain might be glad of some such service. Besides, I had been in the midst of an affair in West China some years before, wherein I had discovered that one could be badly wounded and yet feel no hurt ; and in this case an active part in which I could be killed and not know that I was hurt was more attractive than a passive waiting my turn in a general butchery. The captain heard me through and then replied: "The most helpful thing a woman can do in a fight is to keep out of the way." As I meditated these rather stunning words the captain seemed to take a second thought. Then with still unsmiling coun- tenance he said : "There is one thing you can do. When the firing begins you can take charge of the hysterical women and try to keep them quiet." Without humorous intent he had uttered a bit of richest humor. I repeated the captain's saying to my comrades over whose hysterical performances I 200 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL was thus appointed to preside, and watched the serious faces of those brave women break into a smile that went around at the captain's expense. However, every heart was warm for the captain and his handful of brave men who stood between us and peril. A thorough organization was effected, which gave to women as well as men enough to do to fill all the days, and sometimes the night as well, with incessant activity. There was a set of com- mittees which went into operation when an alarm was given, to set in motion toward the church every- body in all the courts of the Mission, and to receive them there and dispose of the different groups in their appointed places. At first the alarms were sounded on the church bell, but later on a different plan was adopted a plan that gave no sign to the hosts outside. In accordance with the new plan, women sentinels took turns day and night at watches of two hours each, on certain verandas, and chairs were provided for these sentinels. When an attack seemed probable, a soldier would warn a watcher on a particular veranda, and she would warn the watchers on other verandas, who in turn would inform the various assemblies in various parts of the premises ; then all would take their appointed places in the general movement to the church. The Chinese, like veteran soldiers, responded promptly and intelligently to these organized movements. Without noise or panic they obeyed with precision and speed. HER STORY OF THE SIEGE 201 An incident that was somewhat thrilling to one at least, led to the appointment of one person to each house, whose duty it should be to see that no one was left behind when noncombatants betook themselves to the shelter of the church. Hard work such as filled our days should have brought weari- ness and sleep, but at first it did not affect all so. An excitement that was like calmness for two or three consecutive days and nights made weariness and sleep impossible. Often through the small hours of the night, out in the moonlight that flooded the courts, I watched the stars and stripes as they floated in the soft radiance from the roof of the church, or walked with the sentinel on his beat and heard him talk of home or the fight in the Philippines. At length weariness overtook me. A friend put me into a quiet corner and I fell into a profound sleep. I awoke suddenly in a deep still- ness. Silence had taken the place of urgent activi- ty. Startled, I stepped to a window and spoke to a passing soldier. He told me that an alarm had been given and all but the guard were already shut into the church. Between me and the church lay a heavy barricade with closed gate. If an attack had been made, I should have found myself among fighting men, and possibly very much in their way. But the approaching troops who had caused the alarm passed by. Then the possibilities suggested by this incident were met by the creation of an office which completed a very effective organization. When it was finally ordered that we spend all our 202 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL nights in the church, four women armed themselves and every night retired to the floor of a vestibule of the church. One took to her resting place a formidable iron poker nearly as long as she was tall, another an ax, another a revolver, and still another a patent nail puller that carried a mur- derous beak. These women were determined that should the fight come their way, no enemy should assail the helpless Chinese in the church until they had felt the force of at least one stroke of the poker, one swing of the ax, one shot from the revolver and one fell blow of the nail puller. There were many times when an attack seemed imminent. One night we left our arms in the vesti- bule and sat cm the church steps and listened to what was most fearful of all the sounds that came to our ears through all the tumult of those weeks of peril. Close at hand the Mission wall shut us in and a sentinel kept watch. The city wall rose in heavy outline against the sky not many rods away. On the other side of that frowning wall arose a hoarse babble of voices a multitude crying in unison. Billows of sound, borne by the wind, surged against the wall, to recede and return again and again. For three hours the air boomed with the roar of a multitude whose cry was, "Kill, kill, kill the foreigners." The disturbance seemed to be just over the city wall and opposite the Mis- sion. Some were deeply anxious lest the Legations should not have heard it, but there was an opinion against trying to reach the Legation with a mes- HER STORY OF THE SIEGE 203 sage at that hour of the night. Mr. Hobart, un- observed, departed and went alone to the American Legation, though the night was far spent and one could not know in what condition he would find the streets. On his return he reported that Minis- ter Conger and Captain Myer had been on the city wall and discovered that the whole southern city had turned out to burn incense and prostrate them- selves, and then had stood and united in the cry, "Kill, kill." The cry did not die away gradually, but ceased suddenly, which seemed to those who lis- tened a sign of sinister import, indicating that there was leadership and organization, and there- fore a more formidable peril for us. We thought the morning might bring an attack, but the per- formance of the night was part of a preparation for a day for the accomplishment of whose horrors yet other days and nights of preparation must be spent. As those summer days went by we noticed that our soldiers wore their heavy uniforms and inquired concerning the discomfort of such attire. They told us that one day, while at dinner on shipboard, the order was given to report on shore at -once for Peking. There was no time to consider the possible heat of a summer in Peking, or to prepare other clothing than that they wore. They had come in haste as they were, in response to the call from Peking for Legation guards. The women took a collection among the missionaries, and while it was yet possible to make purchases at the shops they 204 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL procured enough navy-blue drilling and brass but- tons to outfit the twenty soldiers with lightweight suits. We had had no experience in making men's clothes, and thought it possible that the soldiers might object to any fit we might make, but we hoped for the best, and after consulting the cap- tain as to the regularity of the proposed proceed- ing for all were under military rule those days we entered upon the undertaking. We ripped a suit of Mr. Gamewell's for a pattern. Then one of our number cut coats and another cut trousers. To be sure, the soldiers were tall and short, heavy and slight, but the pattern was medium, and there was to be a basting and fitting of each suit. While two cut, many basted. Then in capacity of a fitter I took the garments to the soldiers' headquarters, and pinned and fitted until every suit was adjusted. And there was patriotic fervor in the pinning of every pin that pinned the seams of those garments of blue, fervor born of the fires kindled during the war that raged in girlhood days, when our town on the Mississippi was always a-flutter with flags, and full of arriving and departing troops. We found that the soldier boys, sweltering in heavy uniform, were not half so anxious about the fit of the lightweight suits as they were eager to be clothed with the same. The delight with which any soldier who happened to be at headquarters when a suit was delivered immediately appropriated that suit, without regard to fit, was stimulating to the unaccustomed workers on suits of blue, and HER STORY OF THE SIEGE 205 gratifying as well. But when the first lot of finished suits had been appropriated after this somewhat promiscuous fashion we thereafter sewed upon each completed garment a piece of white cloth, on which was written the name of the soldier for whom the suit was intended. By this device we gave to each soldier a better fit, and saved to ourselves somewhat of credit as fitters. Four pockets seemed a large addition to the work of making those close-fitting jackets, so we ven- tured to inquire in as disinterested a manner as possible how many pockets were essential to com- plete a soldier's jacket. "Four" was the emphatic and unhesitating reply. Sa four it was. Four pockets and a row of brass buttons and a little standing collar adjusted under the direction of the soldiers, and the jackets were pronounced satisfac- tory. Concerning one point only were these brave soldier boys particular, and that was that there should be no hint of flare where the trousers meet the feet, for the soldiers of the marine corps were anxious that no extra width of trousers should cause them to be mistaken for sailors. When the suits were on and the cartridge belts and the gaiters adjusted, and we watched the soldiers passing to and fro, four pockets and a full row of brass but- tons each, we congratulated ourselves on our suc- cessful attempts at tailoring, and said one to another: "The suits we have made might easily be mistaken for the soldiers' regular uniform." The days passed in a ceaseless round of activities 206 MARY PORTER GAMEWELL mingled with hoping, questioning, wondering, and listening night and day for the coming of McCalla and the relief column. Outside our lines the im- perial troops swarmed the city wall and streets, and the horns of the Boxers could be heard from every quarter of the city, and fires clouded the days and made lurid the nights. These days of stress were brightened on