THE LIBRARY
OF
THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA
LOS ANGELES
SKETCHES
OF THE
LIFE AND PUBLIC SERVICES
OF
OF
^'^'H' y( i >-<-
NEW HAMPSHIRE.
COMPILED BY
BEN : PERLEY POORE AND F. B. EATON.
MANCHESTER, X. H. :
JOHN I! . CLARKE, PRINTER.
LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
CHAPTER I.
ANCESTRY AND EARLY LIFE.
FREDERICK SMYTH came of that sturdy New Hampshire
pioneer stock which was noted for its strength, its vigor,
its industry, its intelligence, and its piety. They met
the dangers of war and of the wilderness bravely, and
they were champions of Liberty, who could grasp an
idea, who could govern their lives by a conviction, and
who could die for a faith. The invigorating breezes
from the White Hills imbrowned their industrious fea-
tures, while they imparted health and animation to their
stalwart frames. As the stern countenance of the " Old
Man of the Mountains" looks forth from the granite
mountain-side, immovable among the changing seasons
and the sweep of years, so the early settlers of New
Hampshire gave a glorious impress to the early New
England character, not only educating leaders for their
own Commonwealth, but for the country. The names
of the New Hampshire delegates stand next to that of
John Hancock on the Declaration of Independence.
The great-grandfather of the subject of this sketch,
Chanc Smyth, came to Candia, 1ST. H., from Brentwood,
N. II., about 1771. He had a son, Joseph Chase, who
was born Jan. 17, 1759, and who married, June 5, 1778,
Elizabeth Gilman, who was born Sept. 5, 1756, and who
was related to John Taylor Gilman, afterwards governor
550580
4 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
of the State. Establishing a homestead, they had six
children, the third of whom, Stephen, was born July 6,
1785, and was married, Dec. 26, 1809, to Dolly Rowe.
Her father, Isaiah Rowe, was a veteran of the old
French and Revolutionary wars, who treasured, among
other trophies of the siege of Cape Breton, a camp-chest
and a powder-horn. Before the breaking out of the
Revolutionary war, he was a signer of the " Association
Bill," and in 1775 he was a member of the " Committee
of Safety." He was a man of good financial standing,
as is shown by his tax for 1778, which was 3 9s. 9d.,
the fourth tax in amount in the town of Candia.
Stephen settled on Lot No. 25 in the original division
of the town of Candia, a short distance northwest from
the homestead, which was on Lot No. 49. Here there
were born to him and his wife five children, named
successively Gilman Chase, Sarah, Frederick, Sophia,
and Abraham Calvin. Frederick was born March 9,
1819, in a house now owned by Jonathan Martin, Esq.
The farm on which the future governor was reared
consisted of about fifty acres of land, not devoted to the
cultivation of any one crop, but expected to supply the
wants of its owner's family so far as food and clothing
were concerned. Around the house, which was a com-
fortable one-story edifice with a huge chimney, were
cleared fields of a rough but retentive soil, and beyond,
extending up the side of Hall's Mountain, were pastures
for cattle and sheep.
The hardy tillers of the rock-bound soil of New Hamp-
shire produced, in those days, with the aid of their wives,
daughters, and sons, almost every article eaten in or
worn by the family, with a surplus of pork, poultry, wool,
butter, and cheese, which was bartered for the luxuries
of life. There was but little money gold or silver or
paper in circulation, and what the farmers could not
K OK Clov. SMYTH, IN ('AMU A. IST.i.
ANCESTRY AND EARLY LIFE. 5
obtain by labor they went without. While the plow, the
hoe, and the rake were kept busy in the fields, the whirl
of the spinning-wheel, the clang of the loom, and the
splash of the churn-dasher, was heard within doors. The
town was generally considered healthy, and a large ma-
jority of the people were long-lived.
Many farmers in Candia and the surrounding towns
then eked out the scant returns of their acres by making
a few barrels, sold on the seaboard for packing fish. In
later years, the shoe business succeeded to this pursuit.
In the village near the center of the town there were two
or three stores, as many blacksmiths' shops, with wheel-
wrights, joiners, shoemakers, and a cabinet-maker. Each
one of these mechanics was able, without the aid of
journeymen, to accomplish all the work which was given
him, and the choice of occupation in which a young man
might find employment was limited. The life of a far-
mer's son thus bounded was usually one of hard work,
enlivened by brief terms of schooling and few amuse-
ments, and varied by ingenious expedients for raising
pocket-money, for which, fortunately, there was but little
use.
Chestnuts were a prominent source of income to the
boys, who were permitted to gather those which grew
on the trees in the woods, but who were warned off as
trespassers when they attempted to gather nuts beneath
trees growing in enclosures. One of these, a splendid
specimen, grew in a field belonging to " Uncle Jim,"
and its laden branches hung over the wall into his rela-
tive's pasture. One autumnal morning it so happened
that the " folks " were called awav from home, leaving;
O
Frederick and an older brother; and the latter proposed
that they should go and gather some chestnuts from
Uncle Jim's tree. The proposition was accepted, and the
brothers soon scaled the Avail, the older one climbing up
6 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
into the tree to thrash down the nuts with a pole, while
young Frederick, then ahout six years of age, industri-
ously picked up the fallen nuts into a tin pail.
While thus engaged, Frederick saw Uncle Jim rapidly
approaching, and with a warning cry he hurried over the
wall and took to his heels, followed by his older brother.
They soon reached a place of safety, but just as they
were congratulating themselves, they missed their tin pail.
Justice among brothers is usually summary at such times,
and to escape a " licking," Frederick went back to the
chestnut tree for the pail. Alas for the young marauder !
Uncle Jim had confiscated it with its contents ; and when
he returned to his brother without it, they held a council
of war as to the best way of obtaining it before " the
folks " returned, and thus avoiding trouble.
Frederick was finally ordered by his brother to go and
ask for the pail, and to say, if asked how the pail came
under the chestnut tree, that he " guessed a missionary
left it ! " Away went master Frederick, and he soon said
with a beating heart, but with as much composure as he
could manifest : " Uncle Jim, have you got our tin pail ? "
The urbane relative thus addressed laughed, and replied
that lie had found a tin pail under his chestnut tree, and
should like to know how it got there. The prompt
response, " I guess a missionary left it,'' made in obedi-
ence to instructions, was considered as so very original
and smart, that the oftense was condoned, and the pail
was surrendered. Uncle Jim used to repeat the story,
however, every time that he came over to the boys' home,
adding as a conclusion : " And I told him that if he ever
see a missionary with n tin pail in his hand again, tell him
to keep away from my chestnut tree." The story was
repeated so often, that young Frederick got dreadfully
sick of his exploit.
-
c
c.
ANCESTRY AND EARLY LIFE. 7
Another incident of the lad's early life will illustrate
the prevalent thrift and industry of those days. The
neighboring farmers used to gather the smaller branches
of the trees felled for timber or firewood, and from them
make charcoal for the blacksmiths, who paid four cents a
bushel for it. Frederick, seeing that he could thus real-
ize a little cash, picked up the waste wood about the pas-
tures, and with it built a coal pit, which he fired and
watched for a week, when he took from it four bushels of
charcoal, for which he received the sum of sixteen cents !
This the neighbors regarded as indicating industry and
enterprise ; neither is it impossible that some vague idea
of a u corner " in cotton entered his mind about this
time, as he obtained some seed and raised one cotton
plant, which grew well until the frosts spoiled his hope of
a crop.
In 1827, the father of Frederick purchased the farm and
house afterwards occupied by the Rev. Abraham Wheeler,
a few rods east from the residence of John Lane, Esq.,
and removed there with his family. Whatever may have
been the hardships incident to the life of a XCAV Hamp-
shire farmer's boy, young Frederick accepted them with-
out a murmur. As an instance of his industry, it is told
that when he was a slender lad, he yoked up the cattle
during his father's absence from home, and cleared the
rock-heaps from a mowing field, working so steadily that
he brought on severe headaches, and had to take a week's
time to finish the job in. lie had a habit, which has fol-
lowed him through life, of carefullv reading the few ao-ri-
O */ O O
cultural papers which found their way into Candia, with
the agricultural scraps in the political and religious jour-
nals of the vicinity. On one occasion, seeing in the
columns of the Xew Hampshire Observer directions for
raising onions, he planted a bed with great success, while
LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
his neighbors were only able to raise scullions ! Another
instance of this early observation is remembered in a bit
of civil engineering, by which the water from a brook
was so conducted around a hillside as to appear almost
like running uphill. The experiment resulted in an in-
creased crop of grass, and it is questionable if any of his
later successes in life afforded him greater satisfaction.
CHAPTER II.
FIRST STEPS IN A PROSPEROUS CAREER.
THERE was not wanting about the good old town of
Candia a certain intellectual atmosphere, despite the
rough soil and hard-working habits of its people. It is
true that the common schools did not average above six
months in duration each year, but they were often full of
eager students, who seized with a healthy and vigorous
appetite on the instruction given them, and made the best
of small opportunities. There was usually at the center
of the town a " private " or "high " school three months
each autumn for those who had money to pay the small
tuition fee, a sum which varied inversely according to the
attendance. The more pupils, the smaller fee. There
were also meetings for discussion, and the production of
such literary efforts as the more ambitious young people
might produce. In the discussions, young and old took
part with mutual advantage. The few college students
on their vacations home were looked upon with not a
little admiration and possibly envy. This condition of
affairs had its influence upon Frederick, who was early
impressed with a desire for better schooling than his
limited time and means could give, and he obtained the
consent of his father, with the view of earning money for
such a purpose, to go from home, to the then infant city
of Lowell, where remunerative employment might be
found. Before leaving, he took the precaution to obtain
from his pastor, the Rev. C. P. Russell, a certificate of
good moral character. It \vas cheerfully given, and with
it good advice, which was afterwards remembered and
10 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
followed. Frederick was at that time about sixteen years
of age, but his dark eyes sparkled with energy, inter-
mixed with an expression of shyness and sagacity, as he
went boldly forth into the wide, wide world, with a firm
determination to conquer success, and to merit it.
On his arrival at Lowell, he readily obtained employ-
ment in the Middlesex Mills, at eight dollars per month ;
but the confinement and the heated atmosphere of the
room was unendurable for the lad who had passed the
greater portion of his life out-of-doors, in the clear pure
air of his favorite State. Leaving the Middlesex Mills,
he sought employment at the hotel known as the Merri-
mack House, perhaps inspired by the blood of his English
ancestor, who was the landlord of the Black Horse
Tavern in Brentwood. His certificate of moral character
did him good service, for, as it happened, Mr. Murdock,
the Lowell landlord, once kept a boarding-house in Cam-
bridge, where one of his boarders was Mr. Russell. So
our young man took the place of an assistant porter, at
four dollars per month and board. The salary of porter
number one was derived, like that of Mr. Sam "Weller,
from blacking boots ; and by special agreement the new-
comer was to have all he could make after the head
porter had gone to bed, consequently he sat up nearly all
night. He probably found this kind of work not alto-
gether to be desired as a steady thing, and having earned
enough to pay for a suit of clothes, replacing his home-
spun, he returned home and essayed a new undertaking.
Returning to Candia, Frederick was warmly welcomed
at the family homestead and by his numerous friends, but
he did not fancy resuming his scantily remunerated farm
toil. His only capital and resources were hope, energy,
and faith in himself, but he determined to test the qual-
ities of his ripening manhood and to endeavor to make
his wav in the world.
SCHOOL-TEACHING. 11
The first avocation that presented itself to the young
man was school-teaching, he having heard of a situation
in the neighboring town of Auburn. His pastor, who by
the way was a gentleman of fine culture and courteous
manners, acceded to his request that he might be ex-
amined in those rudimentary branches then taught in the
common schools of !New Hampshire, and gave him a very
complimentary certificate of capability. Armed with
this, the young man made his way to Auburn, and called
on Mr. Pike Chase, the " prudential " committee-man of
the district in which a teacher was needed. Mr. C. was
pleased with his appearance, and on the strength of the
certificate given by Mr. Russell, engaged him at once,
not waiting for the legal document from the superin-
tending school committee. When he returned home tri-
umphant, he not having told any one what he was doing,
his father received the news with characteristic misgiving,
and expressed a fear that he would never succeed. He
took his seat at the teacher's desk at the age of eighteen,
but not without ability and a determination to succeed.
After a trial week, he passed a successful examination by
the chairman of the town's school committee, Thomas J.
Melvin, Esq., and his zeal and perseverance soon estab-
lished his reputation as a successful teacher, enabling him
to finish his term to the satisfaction of all concerned.
Learning that there was a vacancy in one of the school
districts of Hooksett, caused by the discharge of a college
graduate for some reason, he applied for the position. It
was given to him, and he conducted the school with such
success that the regular term was supplemented with a
" private school," which he was invited to teach, and he
was engaged in advance for the following winter. His
relations with his pupils and their parents were always
cordial and friendly, although he was an effective discip-
linarian. Prompt and methodical himself, he exacted
12 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
an unremitting exercise of the like qualities in his pupils.
Much has been eloquently said and graphically written
about the district schoolhouses of rural 2s"ew England ;
yet, in admiring distinguished talents or a noble charac-
ter, how rarely do we ever think of the teacher, whose
wise care fostered the one and formed the other. How
rarely, in admiring the golden harvest, do we remember
the patient labor that prepared the soil and sowed the
seed.
About the year 1838, Frederick Fitts, who was carry-
ing on the business which had been started by his father,
" Master " Moses Fitts, at a country store in Candia, died.
Master Fitts was then living, but he was a sufferer from
rheumatism, and the business went into the hands of
Doctor Wheat, a brother-in-law of the deceased merchant.
He placed it in charge of his son Thomas and young
Smyth, who engaged in trade under the name of Wheat
& Smyth. Connected with the store was a manufactory
of potash, and a horse-power machine for ironing and
pressing palmleaf hats. The machine was rather rough
at times on hat brims, unless managed by skillful hands.
For a short time the new firm, being popular young men
in town, made things lively about the old stand, but the
business did not prove so profitable as to warrant its con-
tinuance.
The young traders were consoled by the opportunity
afforded them to study for a short time at Phillips Acad-
emy in Andover, English department. This ancient seat
of learning was founded by members of the wealthy and
respectable Phillips family about the time of the Revolu-
tion, to instruct youth, " not only in English and Latin
grammar, writing, arithmetic, and those sciences wherein
they are commonly taught, but more especially to learn
them the great end and real business of living.'' The
preceptor of the English school at that time was Dr.
PHILLIPS ANDOVER ACADEMY. 13
Coleman, a gentleman with the courteous manners of
the old school, an efficient instructor, and a strict
disciplinarian,
"Supreme lie sits, before the awful frown
That bends his brows, the boldest eye goes down."
While at Andover, the expense of boarding in the
commons was but seventy-five cents a week, and Fred-
erick earned his tuition fees by working in the garden
of Mr. William Pierce, a worthy bookseller of that town,
at five cents an hour. An education thus acquired is
appreciated, and Frederick made good progress, except
in declamation. On his first and also his last appearance
on the academical stage, he broke down. The good
old preceptor tried to cheer him with augury of future
success, telling him that the nervous organization which
was the cause of his failure, would prove to be a prime
element in good speaking; but he ever after adhered
to the conviction that nature had not intended him for
an orator.
At the end of their first term at Andover, our two
young friends found their scanty means exhausted, and
were reluctantly compelled to return to their homes in
Candia. It may be said that the father of Frederick,
while believing in good town schools, had no very
clear idea of the need of book knowledge, and he did
not feel called on to send his children away to receive
academical educations.
Frederick, anxious to obtain employment by which he
could return to Andover, started on foot for Manchester,
a manufacturing city just springing into existence at the
Amoskeag falls of the Mcrrimack river. The present
road from Candia through Auburn had not then been
made, so he trudged on the Ilooksett road, a good ten-
mile tramp. For some miles before reaching Manchester
14 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
on this road, the back-set of the dam at the falls is
observable, and the Merrimack is broad and beautiful.
Not a ripple ruffles its surface, and its banks are broad,
rich intervale lands, or high wooded bluffs, while the
swells rolling back from the river are decked with
orchards, cultivated fields, and comfortable farmhouses.
It is related that when a poor English lad, named
Whittington, was walking into London in quest of
fortune, the church bells began to ring, and he fancied
that their welcome peal was, " Welcome, Sir Richard
Whittington, Lord Mayor of London." No such ambi-
tious thoughts crossed the brain of Frederick, as he
wearily entered the sandy way then known as Elm street,
and he never dreamed that before many years had passed
away, he would be the owner of valuable buildings
fronting on this thoroughfare, and mayor of Manchester.
Neither would it have entered his mind, as he passed
the sandy bluff near the falls, that he should erect there
one of the finest residences in the State, on the spot
now called " The Willows," with its broad expanse of
lawn and park.
CHAPTER III.
LOCATION IN A NEW HOME, AND MARRIAGE.
IF the founders of national capitals in the Old "World
were entitled to regard as public benefactors, how much
greater is the title of distinction to those who not only
laid the foundations of the manufacturing cities in the val-
ley of the Merrimack, but provided them with industries
which not only attracted population, but ensured a gener-
ous support to all new-comers. Prominent among these
cities, which sprang into existence like the fabled palace
of Aladdin, was Manchester, at the great falls of the
Amoskeag, which was originally known as Derryneld, as
it was an appendage to the town of Londonderry. The
location had long been despoiled of its timber, and its
gravelly knolls were interspersed with fields of a sterile
soil, over which the sand was driven about as the light
snow of winter under a northwestern wind.
The magnificent water-power at the Amoskeag Falls
had attracted the attention of capitalists in " the good old
colony days, when we lived under the king " ; and, soon
after the establishment of the United States Government,
Col. Samuel Blodget raised money by a lottery for the
construction of a canal around the falls, for navigation,
and to furnish hydraulic power. Several factories and
mills were built at different times, but it was not until
1831 that the Amoskeag Manufacturing Company was
incorporated. Controlling the water-power, it leased
privileges to other corporations, and it purchased a large
tract of land, which was laid out as a city. The lots were
sold at public aution to those who were disposed to erect
16 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
houses or stores, and there were reservations for churches,
schoolhouses, and the public parks. The name of Derry-
iield was changed to Manchester, at the suggestion of
Major Stark, a son of the gallant old General Stark, whose
homestead overlooked the falls.
"When Frederick visited Manchester, it had 3,325
inhabitants, of which over twenty-five hundred had re-
moved there within the preceding two years. The old
residents did not fancy the new-comers ; and at a town-
meeting, Justice John Stark went into the moderator's
desk, when he thus addressed the assembled citizens :
" Who are ye, that are here to act, and to tread upon
us in this manner ? I '11 tell ye who you are ! you 're a
set of interlopers come here to get a living upon a sand-
bank, and a d d poor living you will get, let me tell
ye ! "
There were at that time but two stores on Elm street,
the principal thoroughfare, one occupied by Kidder &
Co., and the other by George Porter, Esq. At the latter,
a store of general merchandise, groceries, dry goods,
hardware, cooking utensils, and all the various knick-
knacks of a usual countrv store, men were sitting on the
v O
steps. The young stranger approached, asked the pro-
prietor if he wanted help, and after some conversation,
questions as to education, references for character, etc.,
which seem to have been satisfactorily answered, he was
told to call again the next day. As he had neither ac-
quaintances in town nor friends, he walked home that
night, ten miles, and walked back again on the morrow.
After one week's trial, he was engaged for a year at the
salary of one hundred and twenty-live dollars and his
board. The place called for plenty of hard work, but was
not without its advantages. It laid the foundation for an
acquaintance with men, the workingmen, the real bone
and sinew of the growing place, which our young man
LOCATION IN A NEW HOME, AND MARRIAGE. 17
was not slow to profit by, and which was of great use to
him in after years.
At the end of his year's service, the question again
arose as to the " ways and means " for attending school.
Mr. Porter, his employer, thinking he saw in him the
elements of a successful merchant, advised him not to
think of a college education, and to give force to his ad-
vice, alluded to the case of himself and his brother. His
brother, he said, a lawyer with a liberal education and
four or five years' practice, had as yet not made any
money, while he himself, who had not been to college,
had accumulated, for the time, a very handsome property.
This argument prevailed, and Frederick was engaged an-
other year at a salary of two hundred and fifty dollars.
At this time there were very few advantages in town
for reading or study. A club was formed, of which John
A. Biirnham, S. D. Bell, and others were members, the
IsTorth American Review, the Southern Literary Messen-
ger, and the Knickerbocker Magazine, being among the
periodicals taken. These were kept in John Porter's
office, over the store, and Frederick was appointed
librarian. This club grew after a while into the " Athe-
neum," and then after some years, as will presently ap-
pear in the official life of Mayor Smyth, into the City
Library.
Mr. Smyth continued three years with George Porter,
at which time John Porter bought out his brother's in-
terest, and the business was carried on under the firm
name of Porter & Smyth.
After a few years, David Childs bought out Porter, and
the firm was Smyth & Childs. Very soon Childs sold to
T. "W. Little, and the firm was Smyth & Little, doing
business in Patten's block. During an active and pros-
perous business career, Mr. Smyth became widely known
in Manchester and its vicinity as thoroughly reliable.
18 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
Quick in thought and prompt in action, he was always
ready to state his lowest prices, and to conclude a bargain
without any unnecessary loss of time. The most humble
mill operative received the same courteous attention, and
was offered goods on as favorable rates, as the well-to-do
manager of a large corporation. Every article sold was
just what it was represented to be, the weights and
measures were standard, and there was no evidence of
the petty desire to make a few extra cents here and there,
which too often disgraces some of our leading stores.
On the llth of December, 1844, Mr. Smyth married
Emily, daughter of John Lane, Esq., who was born
on the 22d of July, 1822. Her mother was Xabby
Emerson, and her grandfather was Lieut.-Col. jSTathaiiiel
Emerson, who served gallantly at the battle of Benning-
ton and in other Kevolutionary conflicts. Mr. Lane was
one of the leading men in Candia, a justice of the peace,
a land surveyor, and a representative to the General Court,
and he gave each of his five daughters a thorough Xew
England education. Emily went from the district school
of Candia to a then noted seminary for young ladies at
Charlestown, Mass. ; and when she had completed her
studies there, she taught in the schools of Candia, Ches-
ter, and Manchester until her marriage.
Mr. Smyth's congenial matrimonial alliance was the
most felicitous feature of his early career, as his bride
was not only domestic in her tastes and a thorough house-
wife, but was admirably fitted by natural graces and a
thorough education for the distinguished positions she
was afterwards called upon to occupy. Possessing a
queenly figure, regular features, a forehead replete with
indications of intellect, eyes that sparkled with intelli-
gence, a winning smile, and manners which were dignified
yet graceful, Mrs. Smyth came to Manchester, and soon
thoroughly identified herself with her husband's interests
FIRST HKSIDKXCK OF Gov. SMYTH r\ MAXCIIKS-
TKR . CENTRAL, WEST or CIIESTXTT ST., 1844.
LOCATION IN A NEW HOME, AND MARRIAGE. 19
in a manner that illustrated the noblest ideas of matri-
mony. Born a leader in society, and the possessor of
rare conversational powers, she never neglected the
modest, unobstrusive, and earnest duties of domestic life.
As years rolled on, and Mr. Smyth's usefulness was re-
warded by official trusts, his helpmate advanced with him
in the affections of the public, displaying the richest
female virtues, the most practical common-sense, and a
readiness to sacrifice personal comfort whenever it became
necessary. When he was elected governor of New Hamp-
shire, and she became the associate of the highest mili-
tary, civil, and judicial authorities of the Republic, she
was never led astray by the high social position in which
she found herself, but she continued to display the same
Christian principles, the same deliberate choice of duty
before pleasure, the same careful cultivation of the true,
the good, and the useful, in preference to the showy, the
superficial, and the self-indulgent; and the same estimate
of the immense superiority of character over fortune, and
of principle over position. Fortune never spoiled her.
Her dress, like her deportment, was always characterized
by propriety and grace, without any exhibitions of gaudi-
ness or of bad taste. In the gay world and adorning it,
she was not of the gay world. With a hand that scat-
tered charity among the deserving, with a tongue that
consoled those in trouble and comforted those in grief,
and with a trusting heart, lovely and of good report, Mrs.
Frederick Smyth proved a devoted wife, a helpmate
indeed.
Mr. and Mrs. Smyth became identified with social life
in Manchester, and the courtesy with which they treated
those with whom they came in contact, was not the mere
formal discipline of refined manners. There was a sense
of benefaction in it, and to approach them was to feel the
friendlv charm which radiated from their natures. Prom-
20 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
inent in good works, they were ever anxious to promote
objects of elevating and humanizing influences. Their
intercourse with those around them was governed by the
law of personal merit, rather than by the fictitious and
ephemeral rules of fashionable society, and their friend-
ships were mainly based upon the same great principle.
The commercial panic of 1847 overturned every trader
of any account in Manchester, with the exception of the
house of Kidder & Co. Smyth & Little struggled man-
fully. They had a large stock of goods, for which they
owed a considerable amount, and also large sums due
them from their customers. Mr. Smyth was extremely
solicitous of preserving the credit of his house, and
making out an exact statement of his affairs, he went to
his creditors in Boston and exhibited it. His apparent
honesty made so good an impression, that he was freely
granted all the time he needed, and was offered such
goods as he might desire to purchase. When the crisis
was over, every cent was paid, principal and interest.
This success was gratifying, but active political life had
charms for him, and when, in 1849, he was chosen city
clerk of Manchester, he sold his interest to his partner,
Mr. Little, and retired from mercantile life.
Q
o
-
s;
W
CHAPTER IV.
A MUNICIPAL CHIEF MAGISTRATE.
MANCHESTER had meanwhile increased, in fifteen years,
to a city with a valuation of seven millions, and was being
supplied with all the requisites of modern civilization.
Streets were graded, churches and schoolhouses were
built, newspapers were established, a fire department was
organized. The different grades of Freemasons and Odd
Fellows were instituted, temperance and benevolent soci-
eties were formed, and the sandy plain became the site
of a prosperous city.
In 1849, Mr. Smyth disposed of his mercantile busi-
ness to his partner, and accepted the position of city
clerk. He at once investigated the duties of the office
which he had been chosen to fill, and at his entrance
into public life formed a high ideal standard of his
duties. He not only complied with the requirements
of the law, but sought out work desirable and proper to
be done ; in fact, made the most of his office in all such
respects. Anything worth doing was worth doing not
only well, but in the very best possible manner. The
annual city report for 1849-50, issued under the super-
vision of the new clerk, was commended for the system-
atic manner of its execution, and we are told in the
American and Messenger of that date that
"In convention, he was re-elected city clerk by a hand-
some majority, notwithstanding the fact that two thirds
of the council are politically opposed to him. This is a
compliment to Mr. S. which has been well merited by
his faithfulness and courtesv during the last vear/'
22 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
This efficient discharge of duty was not without its
effect. In January of the year 1852, he was chosen sec-
retary of the Whig convention of Hillsborough County,
and at the March election following was elected mayor of
Manchester.
At the inauguration of Mayor Smyth, the Rev. Cyrus
W. Wallace, then in the prime of life, and in the midst
of a long and successful ministry, offered the customary
prayer, and Mayor Smyth read his first inaugural address.
GENTLEMEN OF THE BOARD OF ALDERMEN AND COMMON
COUNCIL :
In pursuance of the requisitions of our city charter, we
are now assembled at the commencement of the seventh
year of the administration of our municipal affairs. By
one of the provisions of the charter, it is the duty of the
mayor to " communicate from time to time, to the board
of aldermen and common council, such information, and
recommend such measures, as the interests of the city
shall in his judgment require."
Having been honored by a call to that office by the
suffrages of my fellow-citizens, and taken the required
oath to perform faithfully and impartially all the duties
incumbent on me, I deem it appropriate on this occasion
to submit a few remarks for your consideration.
It is with much difficulty, gentlemen, that I enter upon
the duties of this office, especially when I realize that it
has heretofore been filled by men of more mature age
and experience than myself. I fear I may fall far short
of the expectations of my fellow-citizens who have placed
me in this responsible position.
But I am encouraged, srentlemen, in being associated
O ' O O
with so large a number of the members of former boards,
and by the assurance I feel that I shall have the hearty
co-operation and support of you all, in my efforts to pro-
MAYOR'S INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 23
mote the welfare of our city ; and that all measures ma-
terially affecting the interests of our constituents must
pass through your respective boards. I earnestly solicit
from each of you, gentlemen, counsel and advice or sug-
gestions that will enable me more worthily to fulfill the
duties of the office which I have now assumed.
I might on this occasion review the successive steps by
which Manchester, in the short space of fifteen years,
from the rank of a town of two thousand inhabitants,
and a valuation of half a million of dollars, has advanced
to the rank of a city of fifteen thousand inhabitants, with
a valuation of seven millions of dollars ; but as you will
shortly be furnished with a history of Manchester, which
will probably contain all such matters of 'interest, I pro-
pose rather, in the few remarks I shall make, to speak,
in a business manner, of some of the subjects which will
very soon engage our attention.
For information in relation to the financial affairs of
the city, I refer you to the report of the committee on
finance of last year, which, I have reason to believe,
contains an accurate and true statement of the financial
condition of the city Feb. 1, 1852, and which, with other
reports thereto annexed, will assist you to form a correct
judgment of the manner in which the affairs of the
city have been managed the past year, and of what may
be required for the ensuing year. The city debt, prop-
erly so called (not, of course, including several outstand-
ing claims), amounted, Feb. 1, 1852, to $98,431. The
amount of interest due on the same was 3,668.36, as
appears from said report. The purposes for which this
debt was created, or the wisdom with which it was ex-
pended, are not questions for us here to discuss. It was
contracted by councils composed of men of age, expe-
rience, and ability.
The debt is upon us, and we have the power to in-
crease or decrease it. I am not aware that there will be
24 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
any necessity of increasing this debt the present year ;
indeed, I hope we may be able to meet all necessary ex-
penditures and decrease the debt in some measure, with-
out augmenting the rate of taxation over that of last
year.
It will be your duty at an early day to decide upon the
appropriations to be made to meet the necessary expenses
of the city the present year. This will require your pa-
tient and careful attention, as it is difficult to determine
at the commencement of the year, with any degree of ex-
actness, what amount of money will be required for the
several departments of expenditure, and yet it is desirable
that a sufficient amount be raised to meet all necessary
expenses, without submitting our citizens to unnecessary
taxation for a surplus.
I will next call your attention, gentlemen, to the sub-
ject of our schools, which will require a larger appro-
priation than any other department, a subject which has
not passed unnoticed by the messages of any of our cities
in New England for many a year; and yet, gentlemen, in
common with all others, I again call your attention to the
subject as one well worthy of your deliberation and foster-
ing care. By the liberality and enlightened policy of our
citizens in the various school districts, schoolhouses have
been erected which are in a measure commensurate with
the wants and welfare of teachers and scholars, as well as
in conformity with the spirit of the age. From my own
personal observation, and the very able report of our effi-
cient school committee of the last year, and from the
opinion of others, in whose ability to form correct judg-
ment in the premises I have confidence, I am inclined to
the opinion that our schools are improving; and although
subject to the drawbacks and hinderances consequent
upon a somewhat fluctuating population, they will yet
favorably compare with the schools of any other town or
city of our age in New England.
MAYOR'S INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 25
While a large proportion of the children and youth of
our city are the constant and regular recipients of the
advantages of our common-school system, it is yet a no-
torious fact, that at all hours of the day there may be
seen in our public streets and thoroughfares, scores of
children who are not connected with any school, and who
are growing up adepts in vice and disturbers of the peace
and quiet of our city; and although these in many in-
stances are the children of foreigners, it is yet to be
feared that too many of our native-born citizens are un-
mindful of the duty they owe themselves, their children,
and the community at large, in this respect.
To remedy this evil, and bring these children within
the influence of such instruction as shall best promote
their welfare here and hereafter, I would recommend to
your consideration the valuable suggestions of Hon. C.
E. Potter, in his report to the mayor and aldermen :
" That the police or school committee be clothed with
sufficient authority from the proper source to place and
keep at school in the different wards, all the vagrant
children in the city."
The amount appropriated for schools last year was
8,300. An increased appropriation is recommended by
our school committee for the present year. The amount
necessary to be raised for the building and repairing of
schoolhouses is determined by the districts, and you will
have to appropriate what they shall order, which must
be assessed upon the polls and estates in the districts
where the expenditure is to be made.
A large amount of expenditure will always be required
for the repairs of highways in our city, in order to keep
them in a safe and convenient condition, as they are nu-
merous, and traverse a large extent of territory. The
amount appropriated for highways and bridges last year
was $5,000, 32,750 of which was for District Xo. 2,
26 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
which embraces the city proper, including Janesville.
The balance, $2,250, was appropriated to the outer dis-
tricts. I think as much will be needed for these districts
this year. I am of the opinion that the streets in District
No. 2 may be kept in good condition the present year for
a much less sum than was expended last year. In con-
nection with the subject of highways, I wish to say a
word in relation to sidewalks.
The importance of sidewalks for the accommodation of
foot-passengers has been much overlooked. While we
are careful to furnish good and well-graded streets for
teams and carriages, we should not forget that the travel
on foot, when compared in distance with that of teams
and vehicles, is much the greater ; and that while the
latter is furnished with all the accommodations it re-
quires, the former should not be left to pursue its way
through mud and water and rubbish of the wayside, or,
what is worse, over uneven and ill-constructed walks. In
many cities a policy prevails that where the abutters will
furnish edge-stones the city causes them to be set and the
walks constructed at the expense of the city. In other
cities the government constructs the sidewalks and assess
the cost thereof on the abutting estates. But as we have
no law in our State authorizing the latter policy, I would
suggest the propriety of adopting the former, or a similar
one, and that a part of the money appropriated for high-
ways in District Xo. 2 be expended to improve the side-
walks.
Expenditures for new highways for several years past
have been very large, and in the opinion of many of our
citizens (with whom I concur) have been much larger
than the public good required. I have no doubt all these
new highways will at some future time be needed ; but
our city is not in a financial position at this time to
justify large expenditures in anticipation of the future.
MAYOR'S INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 27
Our present wants require all the tax our citizens can
afford to pay. I hope it will not be necessary to make
an appropriation for this purpose the present year.
A petition is now before the court, to be referred to the
road commissioners, for a new highway near Webster's
Mills, which the board of aldermen refused to lay out,
and which, if laid out, will require an appropriation.
The commissioners have laid out the highway over the
Falls bridge, and assessed upon Manchester the sum of
$2,135 for that part of the bridge situated in Manchester,
for the payment of which it will be necessary to provide.
A large amount of money has been expended in former
years for the construction of common sewers, and most
of our principal streets are now well drained. I think
that a small appropriation only will be needed the present
year. A claim has been presented against the city for
damage alleged to have been caused to the buildings of
certain persons by acts of the city, relative to the sewer
and reservoir upon Hanover street. This subject should
receive your early attention, to ascertain if the city is
liable in this case. Should it be found that we are liable
for this damage, an appropriation should be made for this
purpose, and means taken to prevent a similar occurrence
hereafter.
I next call your attention, gentlemen, to the subject of
the tire department. It is supposed that the impor-
tance of sustaining in our midst an efficient and well reg-
ulated fire department is by no one questioned. Our
present department lias given indisputable evidence of its
efficiency, and has to an unusual extent the confidence of
our people. Engine Co. Xo. 2, which has not been rec-
ognixed by the city for some two years, owing to the
dilapidated condition of their engine, has recently been
resuscitated and furnished with a new and costly machine
by the Amoskeag Company, and it is probable will apply
28 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
for admission into the department at the commencement
of the year, an application which, if made, will no doubt
receive your favorable consideration. Whether any alter-
ation in our ordinances relating to the department is
required, you have facilities for judging in common with
myself and others. That said ordinances are not fault-
less is, I believe, admitted by all who have given the
matter attention ; but in what manner they can be
improved, so as to give better satisfaction to all parties
concerned, is a question that will require your careful
consideration. I am of opinion that the department
itself would prefer a fixed compensation ; but whether
this is the case or not could only be ascertained by con-
sultation with its members ; and whatever may be done
by you in relation to this matter, I am decidedly of
opinion that you will proceed with better prospects of
success when you shall have, through your committees,
conferred with the members of the fire department, or
their representatives.
In any case, you will need to make a much larger
appropriation than last year, to meet what may become
due on the 1st of April by the present ordinances, and
the expenses during the present year.
Some discussion has been had on the part of our fellow-
citizens in relation to obtaining a supply of water from
the Merrimack river in connection with the Amoskeag
Manufacturing Company, which matter was brought to
the notice of vour predecessors bv the engineers of the
/ > o
fire department, but there has been no action in the prem-
ises so far as the city is concerned. I am not informed of
the precise nature of the plan proposed to be pursued by
said company in its detail, and am therefore unable at
this time to give an opinion in relation to the matter, but
at the same time will venture to remark that, if a favor-
able opportunity is offered to obtain a supply of pure
MAYOR'S INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 29
water in connection with said company for the use of the
city, at an expense much less than would otherwise be
required, I would recommend that a joint special com-
mittee be appointed to investigate the matter, and report
to the city council as soon as may be. I will here also
say that whenever the time arrives to decide the matter
of the connection of the city with such an enterprise, I
should recommend that the question be referred directly
to the people for a decision.
I beg leave next to call your attention to our city
farm, which seems in a measure to have escaped the
attention of our city government heretofore. We have
all the facilities necessary for making this farm the
model farm of our county and the pride of our city, at a
small expense. All the enriching substances necessary
to be removed from our streets should be secured for the
benefit of the farm, and I would recommend that the
teams belonging to the same be put in requisition for that
purpose. I would also suggest that proper measures be
taken to procure the most approved breeds of stock for
the farm, and thereby not only benefit our city, but the
whole country around. In connection with this subject,
I would respectfully refer you to the important sugges-
tions of Hon. C. E. Potter, justice of the police court,
relating to our House of Correction (in his report before
referred to), which I hope will receive the attention they
deserve.
The necessary appropriation for city farm, paupers,
and city police, you will determine in a great measure
from the expenditures of those departments in previous
years. I am happy to say that, so far as I can judge,
these departments have been managed with commendable
economy and prudence the past year. I am reminded in
this connection that the question of boundary between
the city farm and that of Robert Wilson, Esq., still
30 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
remains unsettled, and I am informed that during the
past year quantities of wood and timber have been taken
from the land in dispute by the opposing claimant. I
would recommend that measures be immediately taken
to establish our claim to this disputed land, and to recover
the value of wood and timber taken therefrom ; as from
the best information I can gain, the city's claim can be
shown to be clear and undoubted. If this line is allowed
to remain unsettled much longer, there may be some dif-
ficulty in establishing it, from the uncertainty of obtain-
ing testimony as to the original lines in consequence of
the decease of those persons on whose knowledge depend-
ence must chiefly be placed, in case reference cannot be
made to any authentic place or record.
From the reports of the committees on commons and
cemetery, it is thought the latter will need no appropria-
tion from you this year, as the amount which will be
received from the sale of lots will probably meet all ne-
cessary expenses.
The committee on commons recommended that an
iron fence be constructed the present year around Con-
cord square, agreeably to the conditions of the deed of
the same to the city. The fence which now surrounds
this square seems to be in very good condition, and as
quite a large sum will be necessary to construct an iron
fence, would it not be good economy and for the best
interest of the city to let the present fence remain a few
years, provided the donors consent to such an arrange-
ment ?
It probably will not be necessary to vary much the
appropriation for city officers from that of previous years,
as the pay of most officers is established by ordinance,
and unless altered by you will amount to about the same
as in former years. You will bear in mind, however,
that the amount paid to this department in any one year
MAYOR'S INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 31
is not invariably the aggregate of the salaries, as was the
case last year, when $1,000 was paid for services rendered
in 1848 and 1849.
The interest of the city debt and the State and county
taxes are expenditures beyond your power to control.
The appropriations for printing and stationery and
militia I think may be less than last year.
The amount necessary for incidental expenses of course
you cannot very well determine, as this depends upon
contingencies which no one can foresee, yet it will be
prudent to provide for all probable expenses of this char-
acter.
The expenses of our city hall building always have
been large, owing in a measure to the faulty construction
of the roof. It will be seen by reference to the reports,
that a large proportion of the items charged city hall do
not strictly belong to that head, such as light and fuel for
the rooms occupied by the city government, ringing the
city bell, etc. I would suggest the propriety of making
a separate appropriation for expenditures of the latter
named character, as many persons who do not examine
the reports particularly are misled by noticing so large an
expenditure relating to the city hall.
A change in our system of collecting taxes is in my
opinion imperiously demanded. The large amount re-
maining uncollected from year to year, and consequent
losses to the city, are strong evidences that some improve-
ment may be made in this department. I would suggest
for your consideration (should you have the power by the
State law) the propriety of authorizing a scale of dis-
counts, having reference to the promptness with which
taxes are paid, with such regulations in regard to the col-
lection of poll-taxes as shall prevent the great loss to
which we are now subjected in this respect. The collec-
tor's list should be placed in his hands at an earlier day
32 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
than has been the case heretofore. For several years the
assessment of taxes has not been completed until four
months of our financial year have expired. By this delay
the treasurer is obliged to resort to temporary loans, and
large losses arise from the departure of many of our tran-
sient population from the city before their taxes can be
collected. The tax list should be in the hands of the col-
lector by the 1st of May.
You are probably aware, gentlemen, that much com-
plaint has been made of the imposition practiced in the
sale of wood in our city without being surveyed as
required by ordinance. I think this evil might be rem-
edied by appointing one surveyor of wood, whose duty it
shall be to have charge of the measuring of all the wood
sold in the city from vehicles, and to complain to the city
marshal of all violations of said ordinance. Assistant
surveyors might be appointed if desired.
There are many subjects other than those I have noticed
that will claim your attention, to which I may allude
hereafter. I will, however, say a word at this time in
relation to the planting of trees. Our citizens have done
much to beautify and adorn the city in this respect, and
already in the summer months it is beginning to present
a rural appearance. I hope they will continue this im-
provement, until all our streets shall be bounded with
trees, not only in the city proper, but on the streets lead-
ing by and through her farm. It will enhance the value
of the property tenfold the amount expended in this way,
and cause expressions of gratitude from those that come
after us.
I also embrace this opportunity as perhaps the most
appropriate occasion to say, gentlemen, that I shall be
happy to co-operate with you in enforcing such judicious
measures, laws, and regulations as we now have, or in
creating others for the purpose of restraining vice, and
MAYOR'S INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 33
promoting sobriety, morality, and good order in our city.
You will see, gentlemen, that the most important affairs
of the city will engage your attention in the early part of
the year. After the appropriations shall have been made
and the taxes assessed, no expenditures ought to be
authorized beyond that amount (unless provision be made
for the same by loan), as the expenses of the several
departments should be strictly kept within the appropri-
ations.
A strict accountability from all persons entrusted with
public moneys should in all cases be required, and none
disbursed except by competent authority. We should
make it a ruling principle to observe the same economy
in our public as in our private affairs. On the other
hand, we should not let what will conduce to the good
and happiness of the whole, be checked by a penurious
spirit. Let it be our endeavor to increase the comfort
and happiness of our fellow-citizens quietly and unpre-
tendingly with as little of the burden of taxes as possible.
We have entered upon a solemn duty. Many of the
most important and dearest interests of fifteen thousand
souls are entrusted to our care. May no selfish or per-
sonal consideration influence us to turn from the path of
strict duty. By the solemnities of this occasion we are
consecrated to act for the public, and not for ourselves.
Let us, gentlemen, enter upon our respective duties
with a deep and just sense of our responsibility to that
Being whose blessing has been invoked on this occasion,
realizing that His all-seeing eye is continually upon us,
and that to Him we must account, not only for our own
acts, but for every motive.
May we be guided by His wisdom and enabled to dis-
charge in His fear our several duties in a manner that
shall be honorable to ourselves and promote the welfare
of our city.
CHAPTER V.
THE WORKERS OF MANCHESTER.
MANCHESTER was proud of her young mayor, whose
efficiency was soon manifest. Immediately after his in-
auguration, a " Manufacturers and Mechanics Festival "
was held, at which Mayor Smyth was called out by the
following toast : " Our honored Mayor, the youngest of
the train, yet a fair representative of Manchester lahor,
and rich in the confidence of the masses." In response,
he pleasantly referred to the days of his boyhood, and
said that his first job of work was a three-days' engage-
ment at piling wood, for which he received the sum total
of twelve and a half cents, an amount which afforded
him more pride and satisfaction than any he had earned
since.
At the " Stark Mills Festival," held soon after, he re-
marked on the- rapid growth of the city, and on the fact
that he had been a resident thirteen years, and was per-
sonally acquainted with most of those at work on the
Stark. Such incidents reveal one secret of Mr. Smyth's
success. In the rivalries of that early time there were
men of culture, .lawyers, and others against him in the
race for popular preferment. But his untiring industry
and his genuine sympathy for labor gave him the sup-
port of a people who were laborers and were not ashamed
of it.
In May, 1852, against considerable opposition, he ob-
tained the authority from the city council to set trees on
Elm street and about land owned by the city; the Amos-
keag Company were to furnish the trees, and the city
THE WORKERS OF MANCHESTER. 35
agreed to set them. To this matter the mayor attended
in person; not only at that time, but every year since,
with a few exceptions, when away from home, he has
inspected the trees officially when in office, and as a citi-
zen when out, calling the attention of the proper author-
ities to any need. Some, but not all, of his successors
in the mayoralty helped on the good work.
In July and in October of Mayor Smyth's first official
term, the Whig party lost its great leaders, Henry Clay
and Daniel Webster, and it was his sad duty to officially
announce their deaths to the city council, by whom ap-
propriate resolutions were passed. He also called a
citizens' meeting, saying that " the trembling wires had
just brought the tidings of the death of New Hampshire's
greatest son," and at that meeting gracefuly called the
Hon. Richard II. Ayer, the personal friend and acquain-
tance of Mr. Webster, to preside. In those days, the
great political leaders were reverenced by the young men
who supported them, and not belittled by absurd reports
of interviews, telegraphed over the country by irrespon-
sible caterers for the press. Mayor Smyth had grown up
a Whig, wedded to the principles of Washington and
Hamilton, Clay and Webster, principles that will live
and illustrate the history of our country and of constitu-
tional liberty through all coming time.
The fire department received careful attention from
Mayor Smyth, and when its annual gathering was held
in the September of 1852, he received their endorsement
in this toast : " Young, vigorous, and energetic, he fitly
represents our city."
There had been considerable feeling in regard to our
need of increased depot accommodations, and also to
what many citizens considered needless obstruction of
the highway by the Concord Railroad. In October and
December of that year, meetings were held, and a very
36 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
considerable amount of public indignation expressed.
The controversy was managed by the mayor in behalf of
the city, and resulted in a due observance of the law by
the railroad corporation, and ultimately in increased de-
pot accommodations for freight and travel.
In March, 1853, Mayor Smyth was re-elected by a very
decisive vote ; and the American and Messenger, speak-
ing of his first year's services, said : " He was elected by
a flattering vote ; the confidence which was then reposed
in him has now been perfected. Whatever fell under
his inspection has received his attention regardless of
time or labor. We have never had a public ofiicer who
labored more zealously or impartially in the performance
of duty."
Here follows Mayor Smyth's second inaugural address,
delivered March, 1853.
GENTLEMEN OF THE CITY COUNCIL :
Having been called a second time by my fellow-citizens
to fill the highest office of our city, I feel called upon to
express my sincere thanks for this renewed testimonial of
public confidence. I am happy to find myself associated
with so large a number who are well known to take a
deep and abiding interest in the prosperity of our city,
whose generous aid I shall hope to receive in my endeav-
ors to promote the public welfare. Our fellow-citizens
have committed to us the management of the municipal
affairs of this city, for the year on which we are to-day
entering. In accepting this trust, arid by the oaths we
have just taken, we have pledged ourselves to act for the
best interests of the city, regardless of all personal con-
siderations. Under our city charter, as under that of
other cities, the municipal powers of the people, as de-
fined by the constitution and laws of the State, devolve
upon the city council, which, like the legislature, is com-
MAYOR'S SECOND INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 37
posed of two branches. These branches, except in a few
specified cases, act by separate boards and by concurrent
vote, each board having a negative on the other. It is
the duty of the executive officer to devise and recommend
such measures as he may deem to be proper and useful,
and to preside over the upper branch, and over the city
council in convention ; in the event of a division in either
assembly, he has a casting vote. The upper branch, also,
is a board of council to the executive officer, having a
negative on his nominations. It is also clothed with ex-
ecutive powers, and has exclusive duties imposed upon it
by general and special laws. The advantages and con-
veniences of this mode of municipal government, as
adapted to a populous community, are conceded by all.
One of the evils incident to city governments is to
legislate too much. The proper course for a government
like ours is to keep strictly within the line of law and
duty, leaving individuals as free as possible, when they
do not interfere with the rights of others. It will be
your province, gentlemen, to take a calm survey of what
has been done by your predecessors during the six years
our city government has existed, and sanction whatever
has been rightly done, correct the wrong, and take such
new steps as the wants of our community may require.
You will perceive the importance of early making your-
selves personally acquainted with the wants, requirements,
and operations of the several departments of expen-
ditures for which appropriations will have to be made.
I can only give you at this time a mere outline of the
condition and wants of those departments.
The annual reports and other documents will be on
your files, to which your attention is requested. The
finances will claim your solicitous attention. Our con-
stituents expect of us that economy in all the expenditures
over which we have control, consistent with the prospec-
38 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
tive interests of our growing city. It gives me pleasure
to state that the finances of our city are now in a very
satisfactory condition. The ordinary expenses of the last
year were less than the amount appropriated, and the
amount of receipts from various sources exceeded the
estimates. The city debt has been decreased, and all de-
mands against the city promptly paid, when due. A
large part of the debt is now funded, falling due as fol-
lows: $22,500, July 1, 1857; 17,500, July 1, 1862;
$20,000, July 1, 1867; and $20,000, July 1, 1872, the
interest being due annually July 1, as per coupons. The
balance of the debt is in notes, about $3,000 of which
will become due the present year, which may be paid by
an appropriation (and thus reduce the debt that amount),
or by city stock unsold. The whole debt at the present
time is 97,550, and the interest due on the same is $2,-
955,39. This debt, considering the permanent improve-
ments which have been made in the city during the last
ten years, and the property now owned by the city, avail-
able and unavailable, cannot be considered large, and I
believe is comparatively less than that of many other
cities in Xew England. It has been suggested that it
would be good policy to sell the Davis farm, and apply
the proceeds to the liquidation of the debt. The Stevens
farm is amply sufficient for all the purposes for which
the city will ever want land in that part of the city. The
first-named farm would undoubtedly sell for more than
double its original cost ; but whether the time has arrived
when it would be good policy to sell it, is a question for
you to determine. The city owns a lot of land with a
building on Merrimaek street, which it has no use for at
present, and I am not aware of any future want of it. I
recommend that it be sold ; and that the same disposition
be made of the old town house (if we have the right),
as it is fast going to decay. The court-house lot still
MAYOR'S SECOND INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 39
remains in the hands of the city, and cannot exactly be
considered available property in its present position.
In order to sustain the reputation we now have for the
excellence of our schools, and maintain them in a condi-
tion to compare favorably with our sister cities, similarly
situated, throughout New England, as well as to meet the
wants consequent upon our increasing population, and,
it gives me pleasure to sa}-, increased interest mani-
fested by our community in this important subject, a
larger appropriation will be required the present year for
this department than has ever before been made by our
city in any one year. More schools will not only be de-
manded by those increasing wants, but a greater compen-
sation will also be required by some of our teachers,
which must be granted, or we shall from time to time
suffer by their transfer to other localities, where their
services are better appreciated. I would by no means
have it understood that I suppose it will be for our inter-
est to establish a scale of prices equal to the older and
more wealthy cities, but so to compensate our teachers
that it shall no longer be said that our best teachers leave
us, for want of adequate support at home, and locate
themselves more happily in other communities, which in
a pecuniary point of view have much less ability than
ourselves. It should be our object to encourage the art
of teaching as a profession, and not lend our influence to
any system that shall give our schools an unstable charac-
ter, by the employment of those who have no love for the
occupation, and resort to it only as a temporary necessity,
abandoning it whenever more congenial pursuits present
themselves.
During the last year, I ought not to omit to make men-
tion of the pleasing fact which has met my observation,
that the number of vagrant children in our streets and
thoroughfares during the term time of our schools has
40 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
very essentially decreased ; and in this connection, I may
very properly call your attention to the fact, that our State
legislature, at its last session, passed, as it appears to me,
a wise and salutary law in relation to this matter, and
that your predecessors have taken action on the same
subject, calculated to make it effectual in our city.
Your attention is commended to the annual report of
the school committee of last year, and in an especial
manner to that portion of it relating to the duties of the
school committee, and the propriety of abolishing that
board as now constituted, and establishing in its place a
school commissioner, with such compensation as shall give
him adequate support, and enable him to give his entire
time and attention to the interests of our schools. The
duties devolving upon a school-committeeman necessarily
involve the expenditure of more time than most of our
citizens are willing or find it convenient to appropriate to
the office, as we have in our city very few who are not
engaged in active business, requiring in its prosecution
their entire time and talent. The above considerations,
and others that might be named, if the limits of this ad-
dress would permit of it, induce me to urge upon your
attention the propriety of petitioning the next legislature
for this desirable change in our charter.
A less sum was expended for the repairs of highways
the last year (not including the amount expended in build-
ing bridges destroyed by freshets) than there has been for
several preceding years ; notwithstanding which, I be-
lieve it will be conceded that most of our highways and
streets were never in better condition than during the
past season. The proper construction and repairing of
highways to the best advantage, and with the least cost,
requires more than ordinary experience, skill, and en-
ergy, with a practical knowlege of the elementary prin-
ciples of engineering. I have noticed, as I have no doubt
MAYOR'S SECOND INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 41
many of you have, that some surveyors of highways seem
to accomplish double the real improvement that others do
with the same expense. We should endeavor to place at
the head of this department the most skillful, experi-
enced, and energetic men. I believe that most of our
highway surveyors the past season have been faithful,
and rendered a good account of the money entrusted
with them to expend. What perhaps speaks more in
their favor, is the fact that the city had no claims (except
of a trifling character) presented for damages caused by
defects in streets and highways, during the last year.
Much expense has been saved in District No. 2 (em-
bracing the city proper) by employing the teams and men
at the city farm, in removing the manure, rubbish, and
filth accumulating in the streets, to the farm, which has
been a source of great benefit to that department. The
same course ought to be continued hereafter.
Elm street is, and, for aught we can now see, must
continue to be, our principal street of business. Upon it
our public buildings, hotels, stores, warehouses, and places
of public resort are for the most part located, and it may
be presumed that in its appearance and condition our citi-
zens are more interested than in any other. It has been
the aim to keep it in as good condition as possible ; but
owing to the very great amount of passage by vehicles
through this thoroughfare, it is ut times quite unpleasant
for pedestrians in crossing the same. I see no way in
which it can be much improved, from its present condi-
tion, except by paving ; and in order to try the experi-
ment, I would recommend that a part of the appropria-
tions for highways in this district, the present year, be
expended in paving a porl of it; and if it proves satisfac-
tory, the system be continued from year to year, as the
city can afford, until the whole is completed. I am of
opinion that the appropriations for the repairs of high-
42 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
ways the present year need not be much larger than that
of last year, provided the money be entrusted in the
hands of proper men to expend. I ought not to forget to
mention that several stone crossings are now very much
needed on many of our streets. Last year there were
constructed, by special appropriation, an arch bridge at
the lower end of Elm street, two bridges in District No.
4, and two in District No. 9, in place of those destroyed
by the spring freshet, which are all of a substantial char-
acter, and will not probably require rebuilding for many
years.
In our city the construction of sidewalks has been con-
sidered as much a matter of individual undertaking as
the building of their private dwellings, and if all would
do what many have done in this respect, no action would
be necessary on the part of the city. During the last
year individuals have done much to supply walks on
their abutting estates, and the city has endeavored to en-
courage this improvement by furnishing gravel, when the
former have been willing to furnish edge-stones and set
them. Some further action on the part of the city will
be necessary to supply this great convenience. The pro-
prietor who is not willing to construct comfortable walks
bordering his premises, equally opposes his own interest
and that of the public.
One of the most difficult subjects which will claim your
attention, \vill be the numerous applications for new
highways. The law docs not allow the constituted au-
thorities to lay out a highway, unless the public good re-
quires it enough to justify them in taxing every individ-
ual in the city, liable to be taxed, with his proportion of
building and maintaining the same. Every new high-
way asked for is generally supposed by the petitioners to
be required by the public, while in many instances they
are the only part of the public of that opinion. It will be
MAYOR'S SECOND INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 43
for you, gentlemen, to decide upon the merits of these
applications, and to act upon your views of the wants and
necessities of the whole public, however much we may
wish to accommodate a part of our fellow-citizens. Al-
though the authority of laying our highways devolves
upon the maj'or and aldermen, it has been the practice to
refer all petitions of that kind, first, to a joint committee
of the two boards, to make examination and report their
joint opinions, before the board of mayor and aldermen
proceed to act in their separate capacity. The road com-
missioners have laid out a highway the past year in the
vicinity of Webster's Mills, and ordered the same to be
built the present year ; for the building of which, and
the damages assessed for land taken for the same, an ap-
propriation will be required of several thousand dollars.
You are aware that the part of the Amoskeag Falls
Bridge belonging to Goffstown has been destroyed, ren-
dering of course the part belonging to Manchester im-
passable until theirs shall be rebuilt. The bridge was
examined last summer by competent judges, who, on ac-
count of its decayed condition, pronounced it unsafe to
remain over three years from that date, provided no acci-
dent should befall it. I would recommend that an exam-
ination lie immediately made of the part belonging to
this city, with a view to ascertain whether it will be good
policy to rebuild the same in connection with Gotfttown
the present year, rather than risk it longer in its present
condition. Should it be thought best to rebuild the pres-
ent season, an appropriation must be made for that pur-
pose, unless you should decide to build it by loan.
The subject of lighting our streets has of late, since the
introduction of gas into our city, engaged the attention of
our citizens somewhat. The object is a very desirable
one, and if some plan can be devised by which the city
can give its aid in effecting it, without incurring too
44 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
great expense, or causing disaffection in certain local-
ities, I recommend that an appropriation be made for
that purpose, and the proper arrangements made at an
early date for carrying it into effect.
In 1846 and 1847 a system of sewerage was commenced,
by constructing a brick sewer through a part of Elm
street. This system has been continued, until we now
have a brick sewer from the Cemetery brook, through
Elm to Bridge street ; with branches constructed of brick
through Merrimack, from Elm to Pine street; through
Pine to Central ; through Manchester, from Elm to Pine
street ; through Amherst and Concord streets, from Elm
to Chestnut ; through Bridge, from Elm to Pine. These
branches have been extended by chestnut plank sewers
as follows : through Laurel, from Pine to Union; through
Amherst to Pine ; through Pine, from Amherst to the
back street between Concord and Lowell streets ; through
said back street from Pine to Union ; through Union,
from said back street to High street ; through Bridge,
from Pine to Union street; through Union, from Bridge
to Orange street; and through Pearl, from Union to Pine.
There is also a plank sewer extending from Hanover
square through Walnut to Lowell street. We have also
a brick sewer conveying the water from Hanover square
through Hanover and Chestnut streets, to Merrimack and
Concord squares. The sudden flow of water a few weeks
since, completely tilling the Elm-street sewer for a short
time, demonstrated the fact that it is not of sufficient
capacity to carry all the water that will of necessity be
sent into it in a few years, as its branches are extended,
unless other means of conveyance for a part of the water
accumulating on the streets leading from Elm street, is
provided. Our system of sewerage is now so well ex-
tended, that small annual appropriations will serve to
keep our city well drained. A small sewer is now needed
MAYOR'S SECOND INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 45
through the back street, on the east side of Elm street,
and short sewers in some other localities.
The proper support of the fire department of our city
must of necessity involve no inconsiderable expense,
but it is so very essential, that no reasonable amount
ought to be withheld for its maintenance, especially when
so efficient and complete as ours is at present. The ser-
vices of the members are often arduous, and subject them
to serious exposures, from the nature of their services,
the amount of them cannot be foreseen, or even estimated,
with any degree of accuracy. I believe the department
has been conducted by the intelligent board of engineers,
the last year, as economically as possible, without impair-
ing its efficiency, and with praiseworthy discretion. The
department has been increased the past year, by adding
Niagara Engine No. 2, with a company of fifty men, and
also a hose company attached, of twenty-five men. It
now consists of six first-class engines with companies of
fifty men each, one hook and ladder company and one
hose company of fort} 7 men each, and one hose company
attached to Niagara engine, above named, all with a good
supply of hose and necessary appendages. This force it
is believed will be sufficient for many years to come.
The companies have good accommodations as to houses,
those on the west of Elm street being furnished by the
manufacturing companies.
The excellent condition in which the companies keep
their machines and all of their attachments, their admira-
ble discipline, as well as their prompt and efficient ser-
vices, deserve recognition. The appropriation for this
department the present year may be made without any
particular expenditures in view, except the pay of firemen
and the construction of some additional reservoirs, which
are immediately demanded in certain localities.
The city council is often reminded of things wanted in
46 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
the city, and it is proper and well that it should so be,
by suggestions from citizens, those to whom the power to
act is delegated, may often be led to adopt measures con-
ducive to the prosperity of the city.
The subject of supplying our city with water has been
before the city council the last year, and discussed with-
out arriving at any definite plan. The introduction of
an abundance of pure water into our city would be ex-
ceedingly desirable, not only for domestic uses, but as
security from lire. Its supply has ever been deemed of
paramount importance to the health, cleanliness, security,
and comfort of populous communities. The time will
come when such a work will be accomplished in our city,
but projects of this kind generally reach maturity by slow
advances. It will be wise foresight for you to give this
subject attention, to ascertain and determine whether the
time has now arrived when our city should undertake
such an enterprise. It may be thought best to leave it to
be accomplished by individual or corporate enterprise.
A difference of opinion in relation to this important sub-
ject will probably exist.
In raising money for the ordinary expenses of our city,
it is the duty of the city council to take into considera-
tion its wants, and what the public good requires, and act
accordingly. But when projects of extensive public pol-
icy, involving heavy expense to the city and an increase
of the debt, are proposed, it will be your duty to move
with great caution.
The city marshal and his assistant, and officers under
them, "have, I believe, been faithful in their respective
offices the past year, and the peace and good order of our
city has been signally maintained. An ordinance has
lately been passed by your predecessors requiring all fees
received by any members of the police department to be
paid over to the city, relieving them from any pecuniary
MAYOR'S SECOND INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 47
inducement to make improper arrests, and also from the
liability of being unjustly accused of so doing.
It has become apparent, after six years' experience, that
more ample accommodations are required for the city
government. The mayor and city clerk are obliged to
occupy the aldermen's room in common with that board,
and have no other place for the daily transaction of pub-
lic business, which is inconvenient as it is inappropriate ;
and what is still worse, there is no safe connected with
this room in which to deposit the records of the city. I
would therefore recommend that a committee be ap-
pointed to make examination, to ascertain if apartments
for all these purposes, as well as an office for the city
marshal and police court, cannot be provided in the city
hall, without injury to the public hall, and at a small
expense. It has been suggested by men competent of
judging in such matters, that such an arrangement could
be made at an expense, the interest of which would not
exceed the amount now annually paid for rent of city
marshal and police court offices. I have said this much,
more for the purpose of calling your attention to the sub-
ject, than because I have a decided opinion what will be
the best arrangement that can be made. It is important
that no permanent change should hastily be made. Far
better to suffer temporary inconvenience, than to enter
into any expenditure of money that would not answer a
satisfactory purpose. I will here add, that the provision
of our charter, giving our citizens access to the meetings
of our city council, is defeated by its limited accommoda-
tions. The city hall will soon require, at all events,
some outlay.
The attention of the city council was last year called
to the subject of rents of the stores under the city hall ;
and after patient examination, they became satisfied that
they were much lower than their real value ; they
48 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
therefore passed a resolution the 1st of October, advan-
cing the rent somewhat from Jan. 1, 1853, and gave notice
of the same to all the present occupants, giving them the
privilege of retaining them at the advanced rent. They
all accepted, and paid the rents accordingly, with three
exceptions. These three, when presented with their bills
of rent, Jan. 1, refused to pay the same. It will be for
you to direct what course shall be pursued with those
who have refused to pay rent, thus established.
It would appear from the report of the committee on
the cemetery, that the income arising from the sale of
lots will be amply sufficient to liquidate all the necessary
expenses in maintaining it in its present beauty, order, and
convenience, as the resting-place of our departed relatives
and friends, and to make such changes and improvements
as in time shall be demanded. At the time this by nature
beautiful, and now by association doubly interesting, val-
ley was given to the city by the Amoskeag Company, it
was considered so far removed from our city proper, as to
render it quite improbable that its silence would ever be
disturbed by the din and noise arising from the usual
avocations of life in our places of business ; but a quarter
of a century has not passed, and we find our city already
so far extended south, as to bring the abodes of the living
and the dead in close proximity ; and it requires no pro-
phetic vision to see that before another quarter of a cen-
tury shall be numbered with years past, that instead of
its location being upon the southern verge of the city, it
will in all probability become near its center, and in time
there will no doubt arise the question of the sanitary in-
fluence of such a state of things. Medical science and
enlightened discrimination have caused an increased in-
terest to be thrown around the abode of the dead. Your
attention is not called to this matter, gentlemen, in order
to elicit action so much, at this time, as to leave it re-
corded that we were not unmindful of the future.
MAYOR'S SECOND INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 49
Our commons and squares, so liberally granted us by
the Amoskeag Manufacturing Company, should annually
receive our care and attention, and the improvements
which have been commenced, continued. An appropria-
tion will be needed the present year to complete the
fencing and grading of Hanover square, and for some
additional improvements of the other commons. I am
informed by the agent of the Amoskeag Manufacturing
Company, that said company are willing to extend the
time allowed the city to build iron fences around Concord
and Merrimack squares, to such time as shall be for the
interest of the city to build the same, provided the present
fences are kept in good condition, and such improvements
made as the city can from time to time afford.
The overseers of the poor and city physician, of the
past year, deserve much credit for the fidelity and pru-
dence with which they have discharged their trusts. The
poor have been well and kindly cared for, and yet with
small expense to the city. Our whole duty to the poor is
not in relieving their immediate and pressing necessities,
but often more in teaching them habits of temperance,
industry, and economy, and encouraging self-reliance. A
system of improvements on the city farm has been com-
menced, which ought to be carried forward from year to
year. Measures have been taken to secure the right of
the city to that part of the Davis farm claimed by other
parties.
In the address which I had the honor to deliver to the
city council at the commencement of the last year, our
system of collecting taxes was adverted to as needing im-
provement. I am happy to be able to state that a decided
improvement in this important department has taken
place, and that during no year since the first organization
of our city government, have the taxes been so promptly
and closely collected as during this last year, as you will
50 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
see by referring to our annual reports. There is at the
present time one thousand dollars more due from the col-
lector of 1850, than from the collector of last year. It is
hoped that there may be a still greater improvement in
this respect the year to come.
You will observe, in making the appropriations, that
the expenses of our city are not always necessarily the
result of the action of the city council, but are sometimes
beyond their control : as, for instance, the State and
county tax, which amounts this year to about $12,000 ;
the interest on the city debt, amounting to $6,000 ; the
expenses of building new highways laid out by the road
commissioners, and schoolhouse taxes authorized by school
districts.
I cannot feel at liberty to conclude this communication
without invoking your attention, and through you, that
of our citizens generally, to the subject of a public li-
brary. The advantages of such an institution will not be
denied, nor need they be enumerated. As a place of
resort for young men, its influence cannot be overesti-
mated. As the laws of the State now authorize towns to
raise money to be expended for public libraries, I hope
you will consider whether the public good will justify or
require an appropriation by you for so commendable an
object.
I confidently presume, gentlemen, upon the same cour-
tesy and harmony in our proceedings that characterized
the two branches of the city government the year past ;
and shall hope that our influence and acts will serve to
promote the moral and general welfare of our city, to
which end I bespeak those providential aids which will
not lead us amiss.
CHAPTER VI.
A VIGILANT MAYOR.
MAYOR SMYTH was prominent, during his second term
of office, in securing the annexation of the villages of Pis-
cataquog and Amoskeag, part of the towns of Bedford
and Goifstown respectively, to Manchester. The inhabi-
tants of these villages were anxious to be incorporated
within the city limits, but the old townsmen strenuously
opposed letting them go, and would have prevented the
passage of the act of annexation had it not been for the
mayor's personal exertions with the legislature, which
were crowned with success.
It has been seen that Mayor Smyth calls attention to
the subject of a public library. While all now recognize
its importance, the recommendation was very considera-
bly in advance of public sentiment, and was advocated by
only a few citizens, among whom the late Judge Samuel
D. Bell was conspicuous. It proved, however, the crown-
ing act of the third year of his mayoralty, and will ever
remain as an honorable token of the wise policy he ad-
vised. The " Manchester Atheneurn," a private corpora-
tion for the purpose of maintaining a library, reading-
room, and museum, was in a nourishing condition, having
about four thousand volumes on its shelves, and many
valuable documents and aboriginal relics in its possession.
The members of this corporation entered into a contract
with the city, by virtue of which all its property was sur-
rendered, on condition that the city should appropriate
$1,000 annually for the purchase of books and periodi-
cals, and pay the running expenses. Members of the
52 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
Atheneum, however, retained their right to take books
on loan wherever they might live.
It must not be forgotten that at this time Manchester
was a city of working people, mostly gathered in from the
towns around, and more concerned to keep taxes down
than to cultivate literature. The affair, however, was so
well managed that from the time Mayor Smyth affixed
his signature with the broad seal of the city to the con-
tract, until the present time, there has been no serious
fault found, but increasing satisfaction. A few years
since a $30,000 building was erected to accommodate the
library, to which a spacious wing has recently been added.
In March, 1854, Mayor Smyth was for the third time
re-elected, and by an increased majority. Following will
be found the mayor's third annual address.
GENTLEMEN OF THE CITY COUNCIL :
I again assume the important trusts committed to me
with so much unanimity by my fellow-citizens, fully
appreciating the responsibilities which they involve.
The experience of the two past years has plainly taught
me that the duties devolving upon the office of mayor of
this city are arduous, and require his entire personal atten-
tion in their proper discharge. When I consider that
upon their faithful performance the present and future
welfare of our growing city may in a measure depend, as
well as the comfort and happiness of every citizen, when
I reflect that every official act may be fraught with good
or evil to our whole community, I confess a distrust in
my ability to meet all the requirements resting upon me.
During the past year our city has encountered no un-
usual calamity, but has been highly prospered in its busi-
ness relations, and in the enjoyment of general health,
peace, and security, as well as in the benefits of moral
and local institutions creditable to any community. For
all these blessings we have cause for profound gratitude.
MAYOR'S THIRD INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 53
I do not, gentlemen, propose to discuss, at this time,
subjects which have occupied portions of former ad-
dresses, as they now constitute a part of the city docu-
ments, and can be referred to, if desired.
"We have been appointed to the stations by us now as-
sumed, at an exceedingly interesting period in the history
of this city ; and I may be permitted to say that there has
been no time since we received our charter when those
having in charge its municipal affairs should act with
more prudence and care, or with more energy and
efficiency.
Business of every kind is promising and productive;
our population and trade are rapidly increasing. Manu-
factories are multiplying ; our mechanical enterprises are
receiving fresh impulses, new branches being continually
added to our industry. The most active preparations are
in progress for the erection of buildings, exceeding in
value and number the improvement of any past year, and
real estate is rapidly increasing in value. What may be
the position which Manchester is destined to assume, and
what may be the extent of her population, I will not
undertake to anticipate. But may we not with confidence
rely upon a continued increase of our trade, manufactures,
and business, to such an extent as to warrant us in in-
dulging the most cheering hopes of the future ?
One feature in our business prosperity has been noticed
with no little pleasure, and that is, the numerous indi-
vidual enterprises commenced during the last year. Our
large manufacturing companies are, and will ever be, the
mainspring of the general business of our city ; but whilst
this is the case, and although many of our oldest and best
citizens are now connected with them, it is nevertheless
true that the nature of this business has a tendency to
give us a somewhat fluctuating population, which is not
the case with smaller and individual enterprises ; and this
54 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
consideration alone should cause us to second, as citizens,
every movement calculated to give us permanency. For
this direction imparted to our industrial affairs, we are
indebted, in no small degree, to the liberal policy pursued
by the Amoskeag Company.
It is a part of wisdom and duty to so far extend our
views as to make some provision for the future wants of a
place which must become one of the largest inland cities
in ISTew England, as far as it is possible so to do, without
imposing impolitic and unjust burdens upon the present.
I congratulate you, gentlemen, on finding improved
accommodations in the apartments for the transaction of
public business. Much inconvenience has heretofore been
experienced in this respect. Your predecessors have pre-
pared the present rooms with the opinion that they will
answer the present purposes of the city, although not so
commodious as will be required at some future day. The
boards of mayor and aldermen, common council, over-
seers of the poor, school committee, assessors, engineers,
the city clerk, and city marshal, can now be accommo-
dated in convenient proximity. The cost of this arrange-
ment has been trifling compared to the benefits to be
derived, and will relieve the city from the expense here-
tofore incurred for rent of office for the city marshal and
police.
It becomes my duty, as the chief executive officer of
the city, to direct your attention to such measures as may
seem necessary for its welfare ; but our city charter must
be your text-book, to which you will need continually to
refer.
During the past year the ordinances which have been
passed from time to time since our city was organized,
have been, with much care and labor, revised and consol-
idated in chapters, properly indexed, and printed with
the charter and its amendments. These vou will have
MAYOR'S THIRD INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 55
before you in a convenient form, and it will be your
duty to examine the same and make such improvements
or additions as experience may require.
By an act of the last legislature, the territory of our
city has been increased by the annexation of what now
constitutes wards seven and eight. These wards have
been organized, and are now represented in this council.
It will be necessary for you to give your earliest attention
to some of their immediate wants. The division of the
same into proper school and highway districts should be
made without delay, and also their boundaries perma-
nently marked. By the act of annexation, the city is to
assume " such proportion of the existing debts of said
towns deducting therefrom the amount of money then
raised, or directed to be raised, by either of said towns,
to be applied towards the liquidation of the same as
the inventory of the inhabitants of said towns, in the ter-
ritory so severed and annexed, last made, bears to the
whole amount of inventory last made, in each of said
towns." Measures should be immediately taken to as-
certain the exact amount of our indebtedness to these
towns, in this relation, by appointing a committee to
make examination and effect a just settlement.
Directly after this territory became a part of Manches-
ter (Sept. 15, 1853), steps were taken to rebuild that part
of the Amoskeag Falls Bridge, formerly within the town
of Goffstown, which that town had neglected to do, at the
proper season. Upon examination it was decided that
the entire bridge should be rebuilt, as that part not de-
stroyed had so far decayed as to be unsafe for travel.
The season had so far advanced as to render the con-
struction of the same entirely impracticable that year ;
but the stone was prepared for the necessary piers, in
contemplation of building them in the autumn, to be in
readiness to receive the bridge the present season. The
56 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
state of the river has, as yet, prevented that from being
accomplished. The committee having in charge this
work, have completed contracts for the materials and
construction of a substantial bridge, with all possible de-
spatch. It is hoped that this important thoroughfare, of
which our citizens have been so long deprived, will be
opened to the public again by the the 1st of September,
at least.
The annual order of appropriations for the current fis-
cal year, the second month of which has commenced, will
claim your earliest attention. A full and detailed ac-
count of the receipts and expenditures of the last year,
with such statistical information in relation to the city
debt, and the general affairs of the city, as you may re-
quire, will be found in the annual report of the commit-
tee on finance. During the last year, it will be seen that
all the expenditures were kept within the appropriations,
which rule should never be departed from.
A considerate view of our present condition and pros-
pects will prompt you to grant cheerfully such appropria-
tions for the current year as our present wants may
require, and to make such provision for the future as a
liberal policy and a prudent forecast may determine.
Many improvements have been effected in our city
since its organization, such as the building and repairing
of highways, the construction of sewers and sidewalks,
improvement of the public squares, planting of shade
trees, lighting of the streets, and providing means for the
extinguishing of fires. Many other things, which will
present themselves to you in the discharge of your duties,
are continually required to keep pace with the increasing
wants of our community.
The present debt, which has been decreased somewhat
for several years past, ought never to be increased, except
for permanent improvements that will be of correspond-
MAYOR'S THIRD INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 57
ing value to those who may have the debt to pay. It is
no more than justice that the burden of such improve-
ments should be shared between ourselves and those who
enjoy their benefit hereafter.
It will be necessary at an early day to make provision
for the payment of the expense of the contemplated new
bridge, and the city's proportion of the Bedford and
Goftstown debt. I think it will not be good policy to
raise all of the amount the present year by taxation, and
would, therefore, recommend that six per cent coupon
stock be issued, on such time as may be thought advis-
able, for a part of it at least. The credit of the city now
stands high, and money can easily be obtained on long
time on better terms than for short periods, and proposi-
tions are now made to take all the stock the city may
wish to issue as above, at a premium.
I am not aware of the necessity of any appropriation
but for the ordinary purposes of the city. Some of the
departments will need increased provision for their suit-
able support.
In former communications to the city council, it has
been my aim to give prominence to the subject of our
schools, believing it to be the most important interest, as
well as the one requiring the largest and most liberal
provision for its maintenance. And the fact that they
have been improved is one calculated to reflect credit
upon those having them in charge, and the fostering care
of the council. I have endeavored, during the last year
in particular, to make myself better acquainted than
before with their condition and wants ; and although
inclined to the opinion that each successive year leaves
them in a better condition than before, I am yet confi-
dent that, as a whole, our schools do not come up to that
point of excellence which it is desirable they should
reach. Our citizens have ever manifested a liberal
spirit in willingly taxing themselves a reasonable amount
58 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
for their support. Professional teachers, so far as they
could be obtained, I am glad to know, have been em-
ployed in the more advanced and no less important juve-
nile and primary schools, and I am pleased to have the
opportunity to say in so public a manner, that I be-
lieve that our schools, as a whole, were never presided
over by a superior class of teachers ; and I see no good
reason why they should not stand as high as those of any
similarly situated place. I am confident that one draw-
back upon their advancement may be attributed to the
want of a more systematic mode of intercourse between
our school committee and board of teachers, and the
schools under their care. Without such regularity and
system, liberal appropriations, intelligent and efficient
teachers, improved and commodious houses, will not give
the desired result. I hope, gentlemen, that this subject
will receive your earliest and constant attention, and so
far as anything can be accomplished to promote their in-
terest and welfare, it will cheerfully be done. You are
aware that it was recommended to your predecessors to
petition the State legislature for the passage of an act
granting the liberty to consolidate our school districts
into one ; also, to appoint a city school commissioner, to
have the general charge of all the schools ; and notwith-
standing the passage of such an act granting all that was
asked, I regret to say that those propositions were
coupled in a bill with other and entirely foreign subjects.
This act, on being submitted to the people, failed, as a
whole, to meet with favor, and was therefore very prop-
erly rejected. I would again suggest, for the reasons lie-
fore assigned, that efforts be made to procure the passage
of such ah act disconnected with its former and all other
objectionable features.
A small appropriation was made the past year for the
support of a free evening school, which was deemed by
many, at the time, injudicious ; but the school has more
MAYOR'S THIRD INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 59
than realized the expectations of its most sanguine
friends, and should, I think, be continued through such
seasons of the year as may be found desirable. The
school committee have manifested a commendable zeal in
the prosperity of this school, and it is believed that
money thus expended is as useful in its results as any
part of the public funds devoted to educational purposes.
At the commencement of the last year, in my opening
address, the attention of the council was called to the
subject of a public library, which subject w r as not acted
upon until near the close of the year, and not in time to
mature any definite plan. In view of its importance, and
the favorable report of the committee, giving encourage-
ment that arrangements might be made with the " Man-
chester Atheneum " to combine that with the city library,
I feel now encouraged to bring the subject again to your
notice. The fact that not only our young men, but the
people at large, will have a certain amount of recreation
and amusement, is so evident as to require no proof; and
what that recreation and amusement shall be, to a certain
extent, we have it in our power to determine without dic-
tation. I can hardly conceive of a more judicious outlay
of money, than that which you may come to the conclu-
sion to expend in sustaining a free public library and
reading-room, which shall be open to all, subject to good
and wholesome restraints. I confess myself at a loss to
give you a precise plan of such an institution, but have
no doubt that we have those among us who will cheer-
fully co-operate in its detailed arrangements, if suitable
countenance shall be given the scheme by our city gov-
ernment. In general terms, I would recommend the
appropriation of a sufficient amount of money to secure
suitable rooms for a library, newspaper reading-room,
and conversational room attached, and for the purchase
of such number of books, periodicals, and newspapers as
60 LIFE OF FBEDEKICK SMYTH.
it may be thought advisable to commence the institution
with ; to have a board of directors chosen from the citi-
zens at large, with some of the city officers ex-qffido mem-
bers. An institution of this kind, established on a proper
basis, would undoubtedly secure liberal donations from
public-spirited individuals.
The city is often solicited to sell lots of land for build-
ing and gardening purposes from the city farms. I
would submit to the council whether it may not be good
policy to lay out part of the Davis farm (which is now of
but little income) for the purposes desired, and put alter-
nate lots into the market at such prices as may be
thought best. The improvement of these sections would
much enhance the value of the remainder. I will ven-
ture the suggestion that with judicious management, the
two hundred acres of land now owned by the city will be
of sufficient value, by the time that a large part of our
city debt shall mature, to nearly or quite pay the same.
Population is rapidly tending in that direction, and the
beautiful and desirable location of a large part of this
land will ensure its demand for building purposes at
prices far beyond its value for agricultural uses ; al-
though, under the present improved system of hus-
bandry, by the removal of the large quantities of fertiliz-
ing materials accumulating in the streets, to the Stevens
farm, its productiveness is fast improving.
Gratitude to the liberal donors, as well as regard for
the city's interest, should prompt us to beautify and
adorn our public squares, so indispensable to the health
and comfort of the citizens. And in this connection,
permit me to call your attention to the fact that a more
ample and extended public ground than any of our pres-
ent ones, is beginning to be required, suitable for parades
and large public gatherings. Being sensible that the
time has arrived when this desirable object should be se-
MAYOR'S THIRD INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 61
cured, I would suggest that measures be taken to obtain
from the Amoskeag Company such proposition as they
will be willing to make, touching this subject. From the
well-known liberality of this company towards our city,
and from conversations with their public-spirited agents,
I have no doubt they will be willing and desirous to aid
any efforts to still improve the city so much indebted to
them for its present beauty.
The lighting of the streets is considered in other cities
not only a convenience, but a conservator of the public
order, and I think may be viewed in the same light by
us. Several lamps were erected last year upon Elm
street, and lighted at the expense of the city. A proposi-
tion was also made to pay for the lighting of one lamp at
the intersection of any other streets whenever the same
should be furnished by individuals in the vicinity. A
number of lamps have been furnished on these condi-
tions, and others are prepared to accept similar proposi-
tions the present season. It is hoped that all persons who
may be particularly benefited by this offer on the part of
the city, will avail themselves of it, as the expense of the
lamp and post is small compared with the permanent cost
of lighting. This plan has been pursued with success in
other cities, until some of the larger have become able to
purchase the lamps of the individuals, and light the
whole city at the public expense, which it is presumed
Manchester will be able to do at no distant day.
The general moral tone of our city it is not my pur-
pose at this time and place to dwell upon. That we have
in our midst those who are prone to disregard and set at
naught good and wholesome regulations, and intrude
upon the rights of the whole, is a stubborn fact, that has
ever been, and will ever be, apparent. It is consequent
upon all populous places ; the same motives that lead the
virtuous and law-loving to take up their abode in our
62 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
busy city, also bring to us those who are restive under
restraints and municipal regulations which aim at the
public good.
An efficient police force will, therefore, ever be re-
quired, and the appropriation for its support must proba-
bly increase with the increase of our population. The
decrease of crime and maintenance of good order can
only be achieved by co-operation of the city council and
the various departments of police. For one department
to destroy the moral force of another in not imposing
judicious restraints, and not awarding punishment com-
mensurate with the crime committed, has a tendency to
produce unfounded prejudices against the faithful and
fearless officer. An officer should never captiously inter-
fere with any citizen ; but where lawless acts are commit-
ted, calling for his interposition, he should feel that he is
upheld and supported by every honorable citizen, and in
particular by the city government and the tribunals of
justice.
The city marshal and his assistant, who have the con-
trol of the police and watchmen, have discharged their
duties, as I believe, judiciously and faithfully, although
laboring under many embarrassments. I would suggest
to the council the propriety of an investigation into the
laws establishing and regulating our police court, and if
they should be found not commensurate with the wants
of the city, recommend that measures be taken to pro-
cure their revision or repeal.
Our excellent and well-appointed fire department, un-
der the direction of popular and efficient engineers, still
continues to merit the fullest confidence. The officers
and members deserve the united approbation of our citi-
zens. But for their promptness and vigilance, our city
might ere this have been the prey of the destroying ele-
ment. Those who at all times stand ready to come to
MAYOR'S THIRD INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 63
the rescue, deserve more consideration than they some-
times receive. I recommend the department to your re-
spectful attention, believing the best interests of the city
promoted by furnishing the companies with comfortable
houses, and means for keeping their machines and appa-
ratus in good repair. Our present system works so admir-
ably as to preclude the necessity of any change. I am
aware there are many complaints of its expensiveness,
but see no way to curtail this, without crippling its effi-
ciency, a result which I think no one would desire.
An important addition to the means for extinguishing
fires was made the last year in the construction of sub-
stantial reservoirs on Pine street, between Merrimack
and Manchester streets, also on Elm, near Lowell street,
and providing them, as also that at the city hall, with a
continuous supply of water from Hanover square. Res-
ervoirs will also be required in other parts of the city the
present year.
It is becoming more and more apparent, as building is
extended, that the main sewer through Elm street, from
Bridge to Central, is not of sufficient capacity to convey
all the water brought into it by branches, and the surface
drainage, at times of sudden and heavy rains. That part
of the sewer below Central street is of ample dimensions,
being several times the capacity of the part above. A
sewer through Pine or Union streets, connecting with the
o o
main sewer below Central, would relieve this difficulty in
a great measure, and will soon be absolutely required.
The subject of sewerage is exceedingly important to any
city in a sanitary point of view, and should receive such
systematic calculation as will ensure permanent benefit
from whatever expenditure may be made. It will be for
you to consider how much ought to be done in this de-
partment the present year. A sewer was laid the last
year in the back street east of Elm, from near Concord to
64 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
Manchester street, and through the street between Man-
chester and Hanover from Union, connecting with the
first-named sewer, and also through the hack street, be-
tween Park and Central, from Union to Chestnut street.
Our streets are generally in good repair, but the grow-
ing business upon them from year to year will make in-
creased appropriations necessary for their safety and con-
venience. It has been a question of much solicitude
whether it would be policy to pave some of our principal
streets. I am of the opinion that the most frequented
part of Elm street can never be kept in good condition
in any other way than by paving, and that a commence-
ment of the work should be made the present season.
The stone block pavement is undoubtedly the best, and
eventually the most economical for us to adopt.
That part of the road laid out by the road commission-
ers in the autumn of 1852, which is east of Webster's
Mills, was built the past year at an expense of about
twelve hundred dollars, including land awards. It
is estimated that the cost of building the remaining
portion of this road will not be less than twenty-five hun-
dred dollars, without benefiting the public in the least,
when constructed, so far as I can discover. The interests
of the city and the public will justify us in using all hon-
orable means to avoid the building of the remainder of
this road.
Concord street was extended east to the city's land last
autumn, and Elm street was laid out north some distance,
both of which should be built the present year.
The subject of laying out new highways will claim
much of your attention. In connection with this topic, I
would suggest, for your consideration, the propriety of
adopting some measures to ensure the building of con-
venient sidewalks of a uniform construction in all the
compact parts of the city, and also for preventing en-
croachments upon our streets.
MAYOR'S THIRD INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 65
It is the opinion of many of our citizens, that the time
has arrived when means should be adopted for procuring
an abundant supply of pure and wholesome water from
some feasible source, for the present and future wants of
the city. The demand for the realization of this all-im-
portant object will soon be irresistibly made. It will be
within your province, gentlemen, to carefully consider this
subject, and decide whether it is expedient for the city
council to engage in this project the present year. An
act of the legislature will be required to give us authority.
No appropriation will be demanded for the cemetery,
as the proceeds from the sale of lots are sufficient. It is
thought that appointing a part of the committee to take
charge of this cherished repository of the dead, from
without the city council, would ensure less frequent
change, which is certainly a very desirable object. Allow
me to suggest the propriety of preserving this spot in its
original beauty, rather than attempting too many artifi-
cial changes.
After a careful estimate of the ordinary expenses for
the coming year, and considering the increase of property
in the city, it is believed that the rate of taxation may be
somewhat less than that of last year.
There is sufficient money in the treasury to meet all
claims against the city, until the taxes shall be assessed.
The favorable condition of the treasury is attributable, in
no small degree, to the promptness of our excellent col-
lector, $4,048.82 only now remaining due upon his list.
I have thus laid before you, gentlemen, the various
matters supposed to interest you, on being inducted into
office, and so far as I have been able to anticipate, such
objects as may affect our city's welfare.
I have a consciousness of having done this, irrespective
of personal considerations, only so far as my acts may
give me reasons for regret or satisfaction, as I look back
66 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
upon this, the year that will positively terminate the rela-
tion I now sustain to you and my fellow-citizens. I make
this last intimation in order to remove any and all mis-
apprehension that may arise during the year, upon this
point. I shall not relax my efforts, however, in behalf of
this city of my adoption and home, where center all my
strong affections, and shall hope to receive your aid and
co-operation in every measure calculated to elevate its
character and promote its prosperity.
I take this opportunity to express my acknowledgments
to those who have heretofore been associated with me, for
the manner in which my duties have been lightened by
their kind assistance.
Permit me also r through you, to own my obligations to
my fellow-citizens, for their renewed expressions of con-
fidence, and continued sympathy and aid, in all my en-
deavors to serve them.
May that Being whose counsels are Infinite Wisdom,
so counsel our hearts and guide our hands, that we may
be enabled to perform all our duties faithfully, and in
His fear.
CHAPTER VII.
HOUSE OF REFORMATION FOR JUVENILE OFFENDERS.
AT the close of his term of service as mayor, Mr.
Smyth was appointed chairman of a commission to
locate and build the " House of Reformation for Juve-
nile Offenders." The late Judge Matthew Harvey and
the Hon. Hosea Eaton were his associates.
The act of the legislature by which this was done was
passed in a time of great political excitement. It w r as the
transition period when the old Whig party dissolved into
the Republican. Every act was criticised, every motive
questioned. It will not therefore be surprising to know
that the party which dared undertake to build a reform
school was violently attacked, and that at the election fol-
lowing the inception of the undertaking, broadsides were
scattered over the State, headed, "A $40,000 Palace for
Prostitutes." It was not, however, a fortunate rallying
cry for the Democratic party. Mr. Smyth took up the
defense of the humane policy of the State with vigor, and
made a plain statement of all that had been, and was
sought to be, done in the first annual report of 1856,
which follows.
To His EXCELLENCY THE GOVERNOR AND THE HONORABLE
COUNCIL :
The undersigned, commissioners under the resolves of
July 13, 1855, entitled, " Resolves for the purchase of a
site, and the erection of buildings for a House of Refor-
mation for Juvenile and Female Offenders against the
Laws," respectfully present the following report.
68 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
The design of the proposed institution is the reforma-
tion of juvenile and female offenders who have committed
offenses against the laws of the State. It is to rescue
those from a felon's doom, who, from whatever cause,
have commenced a life which is leading them to disgrace
and infamy. It is to take those who would otherwise fill
our jails and state-prison, and place them in an institution
where they will be both morally and physically trained ;
away from the vicious influences of the hardened convict,
where they will receive the advantages of a common-
school education, and where all reasonable efforts will be
made to prepare them to earn an honest livelihood, by
honorable industry, in some trade or other respectable
employment.
It is truly a great and good work, worthy the co-opera-
tion of all who desire the good of the community. In
every town there are some, and in cities many, who exer-
cise no salutary control over their children, permitting
them to grow up in ignorance and vice, to fill our prisons
and alms-houses, unless the State provide means for their
rescue.
Fortunately for us we are not left to grope our way in
doubt upon this subject; as many other States have long
since established their reform schools and houses of refuge
for juvenile delinquents, the fruits of which have made
glad the hearts of many philanthropists, and encouraged
them in their efforts for the best good of their children.
Could the noble army of young men and women now in
active respectable business, who have been saved through
the instrumentality of these institutions, be presented to
our view, the sight would lead us to determined action,
that New Hampshire may speedily unite with her sister
States in the important enterprise of saving her misguided
sons and daughters from infamy and the unhappy fruits
of a vicious life.
REPORT ON HOUSE OF REFORMATION. 69
At present no provision is made in this State for juve-
nile offenders but the common jail arid state-prison.
"Within a few weeks, two boys of twelve and thirteen
years of age have been committed to the state-prison in
this State, where they are now more or less associated
with adepts in crime ; and many now at large are a
curse to themselves and the community in which they
reside.
When a boy is detected in crime, he is either permitted
to continue his practice of wrong-doing, and not prose-
cuted, from motives of pity (because there is no suitable
place for him), or he is arraigned, convicted, and sentenced
to prison, where he finds no associates but those who, like
himself, have been committed for crime. His education
in criminal life, already commenced, now progresses with
fearful rapidity, until at length, the term of his sentence
having expired, he leaves the place of his confinement,
punished it is true, but ripe for vice wherever he finds an
opportunity. He now feels disgraced, his conscience is
more seared, and what little self-respect he possessed has
vanished. For a short time he continues to disturb the
peace of the neighborhood in which he lives, corrupting
the minds of his associates, and preparing many for a
similar course of life, and then again withdraws for a
short time, only to return more hardened. All this con-
tinues at the expense of individuals who suffer from his
depredations, and the State that convicts and supports
him in prison.
This is strikingly shown in the following statement con-
tained in a letter addressed by the Rev. J. Carter, chap-
lain of the Liverpool jail, to the mayor and town council,
dated April 25, 1850 : -
" The number of boys now in custody is 115 ; of girls,
39 ; of these a very large majority (I am afraid to say
how large) have been brought into their present circum-
70 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
stances through parental neglect, or failure of parental
influence ; and it must be evident that neither effort of
mine, nor any penal appliances, can ever counteract the
consequences of these defects, aggravated as they now
are by the contamination of evil association. Hence, the
expense of each succeeding imprisonment, be it greater or less,
which fails of its object, is so much thrown away. In support
of this statement, suffer me to invite your attention to
this fact, that of the thirty boys and of thirty girls, not
selected, but taken in order from the respective registers
of those in jail, in the month corresponding with the
present one, in 1847, eleven only do not appear to have
been recommitted, twelve have been transported since,
twelve are now in jail on recommitments, and twenty-five
have been recommitted (several frequently), and with few
exceptions are known to be still living in criminal habits.
Now, leaving out of account the cost of apprehension,
and that of carrying out the sentence of transportations
when awarded, the expense of prosecution and mainte-
nance of these in jail, on the nearest and fairest compu-
tation I can arrive at, may be stated to be 1,123 16s. 9d.
" But it will not escape remark, that the expense of
juvenile crime is not to be estimated solely by that in-
curred while they remain in that category. There are, at
the moment I write, forty-three male and thirty-seven
female adults in the jail, who commenced their career of
crime as juveniles, and only four of whom have exceeded
the age of twenty-one years. The aggregate number of
times which these have been in custody of the police is
678 ; of their commitments to jail, 539 ; and the cost of
their several prosecutions and maintenance whilst herein
has been, on the lowest computation, 1,877 13s. 6d.
Some are for trial, and possibly may be transported, thus
entailing further heavy expense ; but the rest, be it
remembered, will, in the course of a few weeks, be let
REPOKT ON HOUSE OF REFORMATION. 71
loose upon society again, to be maintained by the public,
partly by plunder and (if detected) partly out of the ' cor-
poration purse.' '
The hearts of judges and jurors have been moved with
pity, when they have been obliged, in the discharge of
their duties, to condemn and sentence to ignominious
punishment some bright, intelligent boy, who was reared
under the most debasing circumstances. Says an eminent
judge, in referring to juvenile delinquents:
" These unhappy little victims of neglect or shameful
abuse of authority, are hardly proper subjects of punish-
ment. Their offenses are not their own ; they have never
been taught the laws of God or man ; or, if they have, it
has been only that they may despise them."
Miss Carpenter remarks, in her work on Juvenile De-
linquents: "Magistrates on the bench are continually
heard to express their perplexity how to act towards
these young offenders, the law directing them to one
course, their own sense of right and their own natural
feelings suggesting another."
A case is related by the superintendent of the Maine
State Reform School, of a boy (the son of a former con-
vict of the state-prison in this State) who was imprisoned
for crime at the early age of nine or ten years. The
result was that he had been convicted more times than he
could remember ; and the sheriff who brought him to
the institution stated that he had been convicted on so
many offenses that he had spent two of the last four
years in jail, wafting for trial, and was but fourteen years
of age when committed to the reform school. The boy
acknowledges he continued to steal every opportunity,
increasing in amount, well knowing that he would receive
merely nominal punishment, on account of his youth.
How different is the condition of the delinquent youth
in a reformatory institution. It is true, he is under re-
72 LIFE OP FREDERICK SMYTH.
straint, but not the restraint of a prison. As he enters,
he is cleansed in person and clothing ; he is treated by
his teachers firmly but kindly; the regulations of the
institution are made known to him ; the government,
though strict, is persuasive. His self-respect is re-estab-
lished, and he soon feels that he is cared for, and though
he has transgressed, yet here is provision made to pre-
pare him for usefulness and respectability. He is no
longer subjected to the degrading influence of a convict's
garb, but all around seems to invite him to effort for his
own advancement. Here he spends a part of each day in
the schoolroom, where his mind is stored with useful
knowledge ; a part is spent at some useful labor on the
farm or in the shop ; and a part is occupied in play and
sport among his companions, under the constant super-
vision of faithful instructors, both night and day. He is
carefully trained, both morally and physically ; every in-
ducement is placed before him to lead him to act from
principle. He is taught his duty to himself, his play-
mates, and his God. Can it be doubted that under such
faithful training, his stubborn spirit yields to kindness,
his dishonest acts to the principles of right, and at last he
takes his position in society, a reformed youth? The
above is no fancy sketch, as the records of institutions of
this class will prove.
Institutions for the reformation of juvenile offenders,
though new with us, have in many of the States become
the established governmental policy. There are two in
oSTew York, one in the city of New York, upon Ran-
dall's Island, and one in the western section of the State.
The house of refuge was opened in the city in 1825, was
rebuilt in 1853 on Randall's Island, and will accommo-
date 1,000 boys and girls. The whole number it had re-
ceived to Jan. 1, 1856, was 6,637; the number remaining
in the house at the last-named date was 549. It has been
REPORT ON HOUSE OF REFORMATION. 73
in operation thirty years. The western house of refuge
is at Rochester, and has recently been enlarged. It was
opened in 1849, has admitted 617, its present number
being 289, and will accommodate, when fully completed,
500 inmates. There is also a juvenile asylum in New
York City, arranged for 500 children.
There are two houses of refuge in Pennsylvania, one
in Philadelphia, and one in the western part of the State.
The first named was opened in 1828, and was rebuilt
with much larger accommodations in 1853-4. It will
now accommodate about 500 children of both sexes.
That in western Pennsylvania is located at or near Pitts-
burg, and is intended for 226 of both sexes, was opened
Dec. 13, 1854, and contained in January, 1856, 143 chil-
dren.
There are three establishments of the kind in Massa-
chusetts for boys, and one nearly completed for girls.
The State Reform School at Westboro' has now about
550 inmates (boys); it was founded in 1848, and had re-
ceived, to Dec. 1, 1855, 1,617 inmates. The House of
Reformation, at South Boston, will accommodate about
150 boys. The Farm School on Thompson's Island,
though not strictly a penal institution, is devoted to the
reformation of juvenile delinquents; it will accommodate
about 100 boys. The State Industrial School for girls is
located in Lancaster, and is designed for about 100. It
will commence operations in June or July of the present
year.
In Connecticut, a State Reform School for boys was
opened in 1854 ; its present number is about 140, but will
be capable, when completed, of admitting 300.
In Rhode Island, the Providence Reform School was
opened in 1850 ; its present number 120.
In Ohio, the Cincinnati House of Refuge was opened
in 1850 ; the present number is about 250.
74 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
In Maryland, a house of refuge, capable of receiving
252, was opened Dec. 1, 1855 ; it is designed for both
sexes, and is located at Baltimore.
In New Orleans, one has been in operation for some
years.
The State of Indiana is about erecting three houses of
refuge.
One has also been established at St. Louis, and one at
Chicago in Illinois.
There is one in Maine, which will accommodate 240,
which is now full.
It is an encouraging fact that all reformatory schools
have received the cordial support of the community,
where they have been in operation a sufficient time to
test their usefulness.
The good results arising from these institutions is hap-
pily stated by James "W. Girard, a member of the New
York bar, on the occasion of opening the new House of
Refuge on Randall's Island. Mr. Girard has been con-
nected with the institution from its commencement, a
period of thirty years. He said, " Within a month he
had seen the face of one, now a man, and an active man
of business in this city, who had been checked in his
career by his reception into the Refuge, and by the prin-
ciples which were there instilled into his mind ; that as a
manager of the present Refuge for several years after its
formation, had given this boy and others many a short
address upon their duties, and he believed that he
preached as well then as he can now. That boy's name
he had forgotten, but his face never, and if he remem-
bered, of course he would not tell it. He is now a thriv-
ing man in this community, a much better dressed gen-
tleman than he (Mr. G.) himself. One such case (and
the records of society are full of them) compensated for
all the labor he had bestowed in aiding to form this most
REPORT ON HOUSE OF REFORMATION. 75
valuable institution, and doubtless, if that person sees the
report of this day's proceedings, he will pour out, in the
gratitude of his heart, a silent blessing upon those who
snatched him from ruin."
The following extract from Governor Wells's address
to the last legislature will show how the reform school in
Maine is regarded, after an experience of two years :
" It is gratifying to learn that the Reform School is in a
flourishing condition, and that it meets the just expecta-
tions of the public. The old system and mode of treat-
ment of boys of tender age, who had violated the laws,
when their minds are immature and judgments unformed,
by confining them in jails and prisons, at a time when
they most needed kindness and the peculiar care incident
to children, has at length yielded to a more enlightened
and rational treatment.
" In this school, the boys are instructed in the usual
branches of knowledge commonly taught in other schools.
They learn some useful trade and work upon the farm,
while their religious and moral culture is not neglected.
They also acquire habits of industry, so necessary to be
possessed by every person who desires to obtain the means
of subsistence, and to live happily. A love of labor, with-
out which no one can accomplish much, must be implanted
in early life, by diligent training.
" The object of this school is to reform those who have
gone astray, and prepare them for the active duties of so-
ciety. It is much less expensive to teach the young and
erring to walk in the path of virtue, and fit them for use-
fulness, than to allow them to grow up in vice and crime,
and then punish them for their misconduct. The differ-
ence in value to the State between a good and a bad citizen
cannot be estimated by money. This institution is really
deserving the care of the legislature, and there can be no
doubt will receive it. It is now nearlv full, and some
76 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
means must be taken to furnish further accommodations,
unless a part of the least vicious are allowed to be re-
turned to their parents before the expiration of their sen-
tence. The trustees should be permitted to use their dis-
cretion as to the time those sent to the school should
remain. If some such reduction does not take place, it
will be necessary to enlarge the accommodations at the
present location, or establish another school in some other
location in some other part of the State. The present
number, which is about two hundred in the school, may
seem large, but when we estimate the whole number of
male minors in the State that are old enough to commit
offenses, the per cent will be found very small. The care,
protection, and instruction of the young and inexperienced
is not only a duty dictated by the highest benevolence, but
the safety and security of the community demand its exer-
cise on the part of the government."
LOCATION.
That we might gain all the information possible in rela-
tion to the object of our commission, we visited the Mas-
sachusetts State Reform School at AVestboro', the Maine
State Reform School at Cape Elizabeth, and other similar
institutions, and examined their several locations, the ar-
rangement of the buildings, and all needful appliances for
the establishment of such an institution. Among other
matters, the attention of the commissioners was called to
the important point of a bountiful supply of water, as they
find that much expense has been incurred to procure it in
many public institutions in other States.
At Westboro' Reform School the managers have found
it necessary to expend a large amount in erecting a steam
engine to force the water, by means of a pump, from a
neighboring pond to the building, which must necessarily
be a constant expense. They meet with the same difficulty
REPORT ON HOUSE OF REFORMATION. 77
at the Reform School in Maine. Hence the commission-
ers made this an indispensable point, that they would ac-
cept no location where a suitable spring could not be found
sufficiently elevated to enable the water to flow over the
highest part of the building. Ry the resolve they are di-
rected to procure a farm in the central part of the State,
regard being had to the center of population, etc.
Before proceeding to examine farms, we caused the fol-
lowing notice to be inserted in the newspapers at Man-
chester and Concord :
HOUSE OF REFORMATION. By virtue of a resolution of the Legis-
lature of this State, the subscribers have been appointed Commis-
sioners " to select a tract of land or farm, containing not less than
one hundred acres, in some central part of the State, the same having
an eligible site for a House of Reformation for juvenile and female
offenders against the laws, regard being had, in the selection, to the
center of population, the cheapness of living, and facility of access."
Any person desirous of disposing of a farm, having the foregoing
requisites, by gift or otherwise, for the purpose above named, is re-
quested to give notice thereof to either of the subscribers.
FREDERICK SMYTH.
MATTHEW HARVEY.
HOSE A EATON.
AUG. 31, 1855.
After inspecting about twenty farms, they selected one
known as the " Stark Farm," being a part of that formerly
owned by Gen. John Stark, containing one hundred acres
of excellent land, all of which maybe cultivated. It. is
situated in Manchester, about two miles north of the city
hall, and the road from thence is level, or of gradual as-
cent. It lies on the Merrimack river, Concord Railroad,
and on the public road leading from Manchester to Con-
cord.
The railroad corporation have consented to construct a
side track, with a switch, at such place as the commis-
sioners may designate, for the convenience of the institu-
78 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
tion, which will make it easy of access, and will be of
great advantage in conveying heavy articles to the build-
ing. The spot upon which the buildings are being erected
is about nine hundred feet from the river and railroad,
and is elevated above the river about fifty feet. The farm
has a variety of soil, all of which is susceptible of high
cultivation, being generally free from rocks, and rises in
a gentle and undulating ascent from the river to the ex-
treme back part of the farm, so that from the building
nearly all of it can be seen at a glance. This is an im-
portant feature where boys are employed in its cultivation.
The building is pleasantly located upon a dry, airy ele-
vation, with the river and railroad in front, a beautiful
grove a few rods to the right, and the city of Manchester
is plainly seen in the distance at the left. The building is
far enough from the highway to give it quietness and se-
clusion, so desirable in an institution of this kind. There
are two sources of never-failing water upon the premises :
one is a spring within a few feet of the proposed building,
flowing from the hill at all seasons, which could be raised
to the top of the building by means of a hydraulic ram ;
the other is at the distance of about two hundred rods,
and sufficiently elevated to flow freely over the ridgepole
of the building.
The following desirable considerations have influenced
the commissioners in selecting the present location :
. 1st. A suitable quantity of good fertile land, which may
be easily tilled, while it is in a good degree certain to yield
its increase, and which has a pleasant variety of woodland,
tillage, meadow, pasture, and pleasant, variegated surface.
2d. An unbounded supply of unfailing pure water, with
head and fall to raise the same to any desirable elevation
in the building, to wash, bathe, and drink, or for fountains
to ornament the grounds, is found on the premises with
entire control and undisputed title.
REPORT ON HOUSE OF REFORMATION. 79
3d. Facilities of communication by railroad, and car-
riages on a pleasant road, for persons having business, and
for carrying heavy articles for the use of the house.
4th. Proximity to an intelligent, industrious, and reli-
gious population, where the institution can enjoy the
valuable labors of intelligent Christians of different de-
nominations in a Sabbath-school.
5th. Pleasant prospect of land, water, and wood, and
scenery which is pleasing and attractive to the eye.
6th. While it is at a convenient distance from a large
town, with all the advantages of a good market for sup-
plying the institution and for disposing of such articles as
shall be raised on the farm or manufactured in the shop,
yet it is situated in a quiet and retired place.
The commissioners, desiring to act with caution in so
important a matter, procured a bond for a deed of the
farm, and invited the governor and council to examine
the same before purchasing, and they were unanimous
in their approval of the location. The commissioners
have purchased one hundred acres, for which they paid
$10,000. The house occupied by General Stark will
answer the purpose of a farmhouse, and there are suf-
ficient barns for the present.
The commissioners wish to call the attention of the
legislature to the importance of the purchase of a lot of
land containing ten acres, lying near and immediately con-
tiguous to the location of the building. The commission-
ers have obtained a bond for this land, which can be had
any time previous to November, 1856, at one hundred
dollars per acre. Its connection with the premises, and
the low price, make it very desirable that the State should
make the purchase. They desire to urge its importance
upon the attention of the legislature at this time, as it
cannot probably be purchased for double the price above
named after the bond expires.
80 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
PLAN OF BUILDING.
Having purchased the farm, the commissioners imme-
diately gave their attention to the preparation of the
necessary plans for the buildings. They were desirous of
profiting by the experience of others, and invited indi-
viduals to submit plans for inspection, all of which were
carefully examined. Particular attention was given to
this subject, as they deemed it highly important, both
because it presents a considerable item of expense in the
commencement, and because the convenient, suitable,
and comfortable arrangement of the building contributes
in a high degree to the success of a house of reformation.
The plans which the commissioners have unanimously
decided upon, and procured, accompany this report.
They have been designed by W. K. Lincoln, Esq., superin-
tendent of the State Reform School in Maine since its
commencement, who has had long experience in reform
schools in Westboro' and Boston.
The plans and working drawings were made by Grid-
ley J. F. Bryant, of Boston, who has had large experi-
ence in planning many public buildings, and whose terms
are very reasonable.
The plan adopted embraces what may be termed the
" family system." Its principal feature consists in so ar-
ranging the building as to give accommodation for several
families of children, each family in separate buildings, all
of which are connected by a narrow corridor so as to
form, in external appearance, one building. As these
plans are adapted to, and their leading peculiarities grow
out of, a system for the organization and government of
the institution, it is proper to consider that, before further
describing the particular arrangement of the plan.
The commissioners hope they will not be considered as
encroaching upon the duties of the trustees, upon whom
the successful government of the institution will depend ;
REPORT ON HOUSE OF REFORMATION. 81
but as the building has been arranged with a view to an
improvement in conducting such an establishment, it
seems appropriate that they should state the principles
upon which such an arrangement has been made. The
great object to be constantly kept in view is the reforma-
tion and restoration of youth who have already entered
upon a criminal course of life, and thus become a con-
stant charge upon the State.
The plan contemplates a complete classification, so that
no more than sixty-three children shall ever associate to-
gether. So complete is this arrangement that no boy in
one family can ever see those in another, except in the
chapel. It is designed that no child shall be transferred
from one to another except in some few cases of emer-
gency. By this arrangement they can be so classified as to
separate the larger from the smaller, the more vicious
from those less advanced in criminal life, etc.
The State of Massachusetts is now completing the
necessary buildings for a State Industrial School for girls,
which the commissioners have wisely arranged upon this
family plan. In their able report to the governor and
council, dated Jan. 19, 1855, they speak as follows upon
this system as contemplated in their new institution :
" The State proposes to reform girls. It intends to take
into the proposed institution the ignorant, the wayward,
the vagrant, and even the criminal, and so change them
as to return them to society intelligent, docile, industri-
ous, and inoffensive members. How can this best be
done ? There is an external reformation and an internal
reformation, a reformation of habits merely, and a
reformation of essential character.
" The State aims to do both ; or rather, by effecting an
essential change of character, to effect at the same time a
change of habits. ^STow what is, or what should be, the
elementary character of that government and organiza-
82 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
tion which, humanely speaking, can best accomplish this
end ? The commissioners can entertain no doubt that
the organization should be that of the family, and the
government as nearly as practicable that of a parent.
They believe that great moral and religious power abides
in the idea of parental government and family organiza-
tion, which has not been developed in any public reform-
atory institution in this country; and that, if this legiti-
mate power were wrought out into ultimate action, it
would effect more in the way of reforming juvenile de-
linquents than measures based upon any other idea.
This relation of parent and family is primitive, continu-
ous, and perpetual. It always has and always will operate
in the social system with a force as sure and in a direc-
tion as unerring as that of gravity in the material world.
By and through it the wisdom of the mature is brought
into a just and proper relation to the incipient yearnings
and nascent aspirations of the young, and there is ever a
tendency to cluster around it the innocence, sympathy,
delight, and happiness which are embraced in the one
word, home."
This is not theory; though the commissioners are not
aware that any reformatory institution has been estab-
lished in this country (except that in Massachusetts, above
named) precisely upon this system, although it is now
universally approved by those who have given attention
to the subject, and had experience in institutions of the
kind, yet it has been practiced for many years in institu-
tions on the continent of Europe. The " Rauhe Hans,"
near Hamburg, and the institutions for juvenile delin-
quents at Mettray in France, are among the most success-
ful in Europe ; both of which are organized upon the
family system.
The "Rauhe Haus " was opened Xov. 1, 1833, under
the management of that truly noble man, M. Mitchem,
REPORT ON HOUSE OF REFORMATION. 83
who has so long and with so much success labored to
promote the cause of reformation of criminal youth in
Europe.
The Agricultural Colony at Mettray, in France, for the
reformation of criminal boys, was founded in 1839, and
now contains about 625 boys, separated into twelve differ-
ent families in as many buildings. It has been found de-
sirable there, not to transfer boys of one family into an-
other, in order that the family may be less likely to be
broken into. So great has been the success in this insti-
tution, that forty-one similar ones have been established
in France alone, and many others in other countries on
the continent. Its success may be judged of from the
fact that of 856 who had left the institution, 708 con-
ducted themselves perfectly well, 47 tolerably, 16 not
known, and 85 relapsed, being but nine and a half per
cent, a much less per cent than is generally realized at
like institutions established on a different plan.
DESCRIPTION OF BUILDING.
Its architectural plan is simple and plain, nothing
being done for mere ornament except the dome on the
central building, which may be left off if the legislature
so direct. Its removal, however, would mar the beauty
of the building. It has a cheerful appearance, there be-
ing nothing about it gloomy or prison-like. It is to be
built of brick, upon a stone foundation. The main or
central building in front of the corridor is 87 by 21 feet;
that portion back of the corridor is 61 by 49 feet. This
building is four stories in height above the basement; at
the right and left of the central building are two others,
each three stories above the basement, measuring 85 by
57 feet. These two buildings are placed fifty feet from
the center building, being connected with it by a narrow
corridor, so that the three buildings have the external
appearance of one. The central building is sufficiently
84 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
large for any probable future increase. The bouse can
be easily enlarged by extending the buildings to the right
and left of the center.
The central building contains accommodations for the
superintendent's family and assistant's office, kitchen,
hospital, chapel, etc. Each of the end buildings contains
bath-room, dining-room, schoolroom, and library, and a
dormitory for each boy, 5 by 8 feet. It is designed to
have all the cooking done for the whole establishment in
the back part of the central building, the food to be con-
veyed along the connecting corridor by means of a small
railway to each dining-room. The central building be-
ing constructed of sufficient size for double the number
now provided for, in view of future enlargement, the
commissioners decided to occupy the extra room by using
it for the accommodation of twenty-five females. To do
so, they propose using one of the basement rooms for a
bath-room, one of the store-rooms on the principal floor
for a drying-room, and the great kitchen for washing,
ironing, cooking, and baking, which will be sufficiently
large for the number proposed. They propose using the
hospital, divided into four rooms, for dining-room, school-
room, shop, and store-room, and to provide for sleeping-
rooms, they propose putting a temporary partition across
the chapel for this purpose. By this arrangement, when
the whole shall be needed for the purposes for which it is
planned, it will require nothing torn down but the parti-
tions in the chapel.
In the rear of the main building are to be erected cheap
buildings, the first story of which will be for a playroom,
and the second a workshop, the playground being be-
tween them and the main building.
PROGRESS OF THE WORK.
The commissioners have made the following contracts
for work on the buildings : for excavation, at 12 cents
REPORT ON HOUSE OF REFORMATION. 85
per cubic yard ; for stone foundation, at $3.50 per perch ;
for all the cut granite delivered ready to set, at the round
sum of $5,275 ; for the best quality of bricks, to be de-
livered on the spot, at $6.20 per thousand. They have
also advertised for proposals for laying the bricks, which
will soon be closed. For all the contracts they have ad-
vertised in Concord and Manchester papers, have taken
the lowest bids, and contracted with responsible parties.
The commissioners propose to do the work in a plain,
substantial manner, but nothing will be designedly omitted
which will affect the practical value or permanence of the
building.
It may not be generally known that the State is in-
debted to the late Hon. James McKeen "Wilkins, of Man-
chester, for a large donation for the future benefit of this
institution. An extract from his will, in relation to this
subject, is herewith presented.
" I give, devise, and bequeath to my esteemed friends,
Moses Norris, of said Manchester, Peter P. Woodbury, of
Bedford, and Moody Currier, of said Manchester, all the
rest, residue, and remainder of my estate, both real and
personal, in trust for the following purposes, that is to say,
in trust to pay over, assign, and convey the said residue of
my estate to the Board of Trustees of a House of Refor-
mation for juvenile and female, offenders against the laws,
in case such an institution shall be established and suit-
able buildings erected, and the said House of Reformation
put in operation by the legislature of the State of Xew
Hampshire within five years after my decease ; and in case
no such institution shall be so established within said term,
then in trust to pay over, assign, and convey the said resi-
due of my estate, in equal shares, to the before-named
American Bible Society and American Board of Com-
missioners for Foreign Missions, to be applied to the dis-
86 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
tribution of the Holy Scriptures, and the diffusion of the
Christian Religion among the Heathen.
" I desire my said Trustees to present to the Legisla-
ture of this State a respectful memorial, setting forth the
great importance and necessity of the establishment of
such a House of Reformation, with a view to separate the
classes of juvenile and female offenders from the evil in-
fluences of the public prisons, and to promote their moral
improvement and reformation ; and my anxious desire
for the establishment of such an institution, and my be-
quest and desire aforesaid for that object, and praying
that such a House of Reformation may be established, to
be under the control of a Board of Trustees to be elected
by the Legislature."
The commissioners would here commit the subject in
its design and arrangement to the candid and deliberate
consideration of the legislature ; and as means have been
provided for the commencement of this enterprise, they
trust that such appropriations as will be necessary to prose-
cute the same to its completion, will be promptly made.
FREDERICK SMYTH.
MATTHEW HARVEY.
HOSEA EATON.
JUNE 9, 1856.
On the 12th of May, 1858, the formal dedication of the
House of Reformation took place, on which occasion the
programme consisted of prayer by Rev. C. W. Wallace,
a dedication anthem, delivery of the keys, and surrender
of the building to the governor of the State by Mr. Smyth
as chairman of the Board of Commissioners. His re-
marks at that time were as follows :
YOUR EXCELLENCY, AND GENTLEMEN :
Permit me to congratulate you that, assembled for the
first time within these walls, we inaugurate a new and
REPORT ON HOUSE OF REFORMATION. 87
important enterprise in the State, an enterprise bearing
on its front the approval of humanity, benevolence, and
of true religion. To reclaim the wanderer, to recall to
virtue's path the erring, to bring back young feet into
the course of rectitude, this house of safety, this ark of
refuge, commended and urged on public consideration by
your predecessors, Governors Martin, Baker, and Metcalf,
commenced under the administration of the latter, it is
reserved for your good fortune, after your successful
efforts in its behalf, to launch, with the tide of public
approval unmistakably expressed.
The importance of this occasion, in its connection with
the future interests of multitudes in our State, can hardly
be overestimated. If we look at the sad proportion of
young persons on the list of criminals in our own and
other States, if we investigate with care the results of like
means with those we now propose to use to save society
from the curse of their vicious lives, and themselves from
the greater curse of mental destruction, we shall find that,
in comparison, the account of dollars and cents it will
cost dwindles into utter insignificance.
A certain responsibility rests upon the State towards its
citizens, not only that you and I shall be protected in our
business, and made confident in the safety of our homes,
but that those who have outraged common sentiment,
and who need restraints that can be seen and felt, should
be turned from their downward road, that all their influ-
ence so potent for evil should be reversed. This institu-
tion we to-day dedicate is to supply a want, a need of the
State, that incipient crime may not become confirmed
wickedness, that the jail and the prison may not harden
and forever fix what they were designed to prevent. We
can claim no exemption from the common lot of society,
and although the moral character of our youthful popu-
lation compares favorably with that of other States, we
88 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
cannot conceal the fact, if we would, that juvenile delin-
quency is sadly on the increase among us, from causes
constantly accumulating. To-day we see testimony here
that the State has met and dealt with this fact ; how she
has neither permitted it to be gainsaid, ignored, or ridi-
culed out of sight.
Although as commissioners our duties have at times
been arduous and perplexing, we have felt the assurance
that the enterprise would command the respect of all good
citizens, and that it was not unworthy the blessing of God .
Entire unanimity has characterized our deliberations,
and in the most important, as in the most trivial matters,
our intercourse has been agreeable and pleasant, and I
may with propriety take this occasion especially to ex-
press our grateful acknowledgments for attentions paid
and information received from gentlemen connected with
reformatory institutions in the States of Massachusetts,
Maine, Connecticut, New York, Pennsylvania, Maryland,
Illinois, Ohio, and Missouri, information received both
by letter and by personal inspection.
We have not in any instance departed from that strict
economy, which we believe to be the true policy and fixed
habit of the people of New Hampshire, in their public
undertakings. Everything about the building is of a per-
manent kind. The interior walls of brick render the
building nearly lire-proof, an important consideration
when we take into account the character of those we hope
to reclaim. That the structure will prove faultless, or
that ingenious grumblers may not find this too dear or
that too cheap, is hardly to be expected. Time and expe-
rience only can fully demonstrate the utility and adapta-
tion of the work.
The general plan is such that future expansions, en-
largement, or alteration can be made without extra expense
or injury, or without marring the good appearance of the
REPORT ON HOUSE OF REFORMATION. 89
whole. Some of the interior apartments are left unplas-
tered, dampness being prevented by a sufficient air space
in the center of all the brick walls.
But this is no time for minute specification : the build-
ing is around you ; it speaks for itself. With a little
additional furniture it is capable of accommodating one
hundred and twenty-five boys and twenty-five girls, with
the family of the superintendent.
The building has cost the sum of $34,000, added to
which the cost of the land, $11,000, makes $45,000, being
the amount authorized by the legislature for that purpose.
Beyond this, the furniture, ordered to be of the most
economical kind, including the furnishing of water to all
parts of the building required, by a constant running
stream, will cost about forty-five hundred dollars.
The commissioners entered upon their labors in Sep-
tember, 1855; purchased the farm, by approval of the
governor and council, in November of the same year.
The foundation was laid in the spring, and the building
commenced in the summer of 1856; was finished in the
autumn of 1857, and furnished in the spring of 1858.
To-day this structure is surrendered into the hands of
your excellency, to be hereafter, with those who shall be
its inmates, under the control of the board of trustees,
gentlemen every way worthy the confidence of the people
of the State, fully comprehending the high nature of their
trust, and who will carry out the excellent design of this
institution, unmoved by party prejudice or turned from
their honorable course by any selfish motive. In such
hands, the late Hon. J. McKeen Wilkins might well risk
the execution of the noble plan, prompted and hastened
by his enlightened bequest.
It may be, sir, no more than the exemption that Provi-
dence most commonly grants to good enterprises, pru-
dently conducted, but still it is worthy of notice, that no
90 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
accident has befallen any person in its construction, no
failure occurred on the part of any of its contractors,
neither has a single cent of the appropriation been ex-
pended except through legitimate channels and for duly
authorized purposes.
Our work is now nearly at an end, and when such bills
as will shortly become due shall have been paid, and our
accounts audited and approved by the governor and coun-
cil, our participation in this enterprise, except as citizens,
who will ever hope for its prosperity with all the interests
of our State, and as well-wishers to the great family of
mankind, will cease.
It now only remains for me to present your excellency
with the keys to these various apartments, and with them
the building itself, which I now do, with the hope that
our trust has been discharged agreeably to the instruc-
tions of the legislature, to the satisfaction of the people
of the State we have endeavored to the best of our
ability to serve, and with the approval of that Higher
Power, on whose blessing depends the true success of all
human enterprises.
In the course of his reply, Governor Haile, of Kins-
dale, said :
" In accepting the keys, Mr. Chairman, which you have
placed in my hand, I congratulate you that the labors re-
quired by your commission have been brought to a suc-
cessful termination.
" This excellent tract of land, well adapted to the pur-
poses for which it has been selected, fertile, and easy of
access, is associated with the memory of one of the bravest
sons of Xew Hampshire, whose exploits have given him
a place in the history of the country.
" It is well that this farm birthplace, the home and the
burial-place of John Stark, should be dedicated to the
public use.
REPORT ON HOUSE OF REFORMATION. 91
" I need not add that your work has been completed in
a manner most creditable to yourselves and to the people
who committed the work to your hands. Your reward,
gentlemen, shall be in the reflection that you have per-
formed your duties faithfully, while you were engaged in
a public enterprise, which, Mr. Chairman, as you justly
observe, is worthy the respect of all good men and the
blessing of God."
The further exercises of this occasion consisted of a
speech from the late Hon. Horton D. Walker, chairman
of the trustees, on reception of the keys from the governor,
the singing of an original ode written by "William Stark,
Esq., with music composed by George W. Stratton, and
an address by Hon. T. M. Edwards, of Keene, author of
the bill establishing the institution.
CHAPTER VIII.
AGRICULTURAL SOCIETIES. ABRAHAM LINCOLN.
IN 1851 Mr. Smyth had accepted the office of treasurer
of the ISTew Hampshire State Agricultural Society, which
held its exhibitions on grounds fitted up in a suburb of
Manchester. That year the attendance was unusually
large, and among the invited guests was Daniel AVebster,
the greatest of the sons of the Granite State, who was
ever gratified when he could turn away from public du-
ties to the enjoyments of rural pursuits. In his remarks
on this occasion, the great expounder of the constitution
said :
"I will say to you, ladies and gentlemen, that if there
be any one thing in my heart stronger than any other
wish, it is that all the various pursuits of life, protected
by law, prosecuted by scientific discovery, and guaran-
teed by free government, may continue to prosper in this
our land.
" Ladies and gentlemen, your fathers and my fathers
generations that have gone before us united the char-
acter of the soldier and farmer. They fought the enemy,
and they fought the inclemency of the weather, and they
struggled with the soil. The mechanic arts they pursued
and enjoyed no further than was necessary to carry on
those great elementary operations of a farming country.
They lived in a cold region, a region of six months of
winter, and a short summer, during which they were to
provide for this great length of inclement weather.
They went, therefore, zealously at work to defend them-
selves against a savage foe, and cultivate the fields for
AGRICULTURAL SOCIETIES. 93
their own subsistence,
seen, and seen since I was a member and practiced at the
bar, those who have been shot and wounded in their
own corn-fields, by Indian muskets, on this river, just
above us.
" Now, gentlemen, all is changed. "Wars of that kind
have ceased and come to an end. He who was half-sol-
dier and half-farmer has now become altogether farmer,
or else he has gone to the mechanic arts, to those vari-
ous improvements which enrich and adorn society, and
our State of New Hampshire is as great a participator in
these improvements as any part of the country. And I
need not say to you, gentlemen, I need not say to you
that this new face of things, this great change that has
come over us, while it is partly owing to peace on the
frontiers, which has released in former times so many of
the people of New Hampshire from border wars, that
peace itself has been promoted, and all the arts that we
see flourishing around us, and the increase of wealth
which we behold, are the fruits, first of all, of the enter-
prising character of the people, and next, of the good
government under which it has pleased Almighty Provi-
dence to allow us to live."
Mr. Webster's old friend, Col. Marshall P. Wilder, de-
livered the regular oration that day, and an acquaintance
was formed between him and Mr. Smyth, which ripened
into friendship. Both are true sons of New Hampshire,
who have by integrity and industry been successful in
their business affairs, and who have generously contrib-
uted their time and their money to promote the improve-
ment and the enjoyment of their fellow-citizens.
The United States Agricultural Society was established
by the Hon. Marshall P. Wilder and a few kindred
spirits in different sections of the Union, to awaken and
sustain a more general interest in all the departments of
94 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
husbandry, and to unite by a bond of common fellowship
and friendship the yeomanry of all sections of the coun-
try. The department of agriculture had not then been
created, and the national society issued monthly bulletins
and performed other work which the department after-
wards assumed. The establishment of the department
was urged upon congress by the national society, and
under its auspices the comparatively insignificant agri-
cultural bureau of the patent office became an independ-
ent executive department, which will at no distant day
be represented in the cabinet.
At the annual meetings of the society at Washington,
and at its national exhibitions in different sections of the
country, Mr. Smyth met gentlemen from nearly all of
the States and Territories, all anxious to create additional
facilities for the acquisition and diffusion of agricultural
knowledge. He Avas elected, and subsequently annually
re-elected for many years, a member of the executive
committee, and as such he was a director of several of
the society's great exhibitions.
In 1857, one of these national displays was held at
Louisville, and Mr. Smyth mingled for the first time with
the sons and daughters of the South, so famed for their
hospitality. The finest horses and cattle were success-
fully exhibited in a huge amphitheater, crowded with gen-
tlemen and ladies. Magnificent animals received the
awards, designated by blue, red, and white ribbons ; and
as the judges affixed them, they were cheered by the
waving of ladies' handkerchiefs and by the continued
shouts of the gentlemen.
That evening there was a grand banquet at the Gait
House, the guests comprising gentlemen who had
adorned the councils of the nation, with others distin-
guished in agriculture and literature, and the representa-
tives of great commercial and manufacturing interests.
AGRICULTURAL SOCIETIES. 95
Eloquence, wit, and sentiment were generously contrib-
uted by the successive speakers. Mr. Smyth was called
upon to respond to the eleventh regular toast : " New
Hampshire : may the Union of the States be as lasting as
her granite hills." He spoke briefly yet forcibly, claim-
ing that his home, sterile and rocky though it might be,
was the peer of every other State, and was only ready to
recognize them as her equals in the Union, to establish
which her sons fought in the Revolution.
In the winter of 1857-58, Mr. Smyth was chosen as
one of the representatives to the State legislature from
Ward Three of the city of Manchester. The house of rep-
resentatives was at that time a large body, in which every
section of the State and every shade of political opinion
was fully represented.
In 1858, the United States Agricultural Society held
its sixth annual exhibition on the grounds of the Virginia
State Agricultural Society, at Richmond. Mr. Smyth,
who was a member of the executive committee, was en-
trusted with the financial arrangements, and he instituted
a perfect system, which, by stopping all leaks, added
greatl}' to the net receipts. The exhibition was a tine one.
Eighteen thoroughbred horses were the theme of general
admiration, and there were tine specimens of agricultural
and horticultural skill, brought from the gardens of the
shores of Lake Superior, from the rice-fields of South
Carolina, from the vineyards of the Western States, from
the orchards of Xew England, and from the productive
fields of Maryland and Virginia.
At the banquet witli which the exhibition was closed,
at the Exchange Hotel, the various States of the Union
were well represented. Eloquent remarks were made by
Gen. Tench Tilghman, who had succeeded Mr. Wilder as
president of the society ; by Lord Napier, then the Brit-
ish minister at Washington ; by Hon. Caleb Gushing, of
96 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
Massachusetts ; by Hon. "W. C. Rives, of Virginia, and
by other gentlemen. Col. Benjamin Alston, of South
Carolina, after responding to a toast complimentary to
his native State, gave as a sentiment : " The small yet
great State of Kew Hampshire, which has produced
"Webster, "Woodbury, Pierce, and other prominent states-
men." Mr. Frederick Smyth, of New Hampshire, was
loudly called on to respond, which he did in an off-hand,
pleasant, five-minute speech, expressing his interest in the
prosperity of the United States Agricultural Society, and
the gratification which it aiforded him to attend its exhi-
bitions in different States. These reunions of those in-
terested in agriculture enable them to compare personally
the different productions of their respective States, and
their varied modes of husbandry. These very diversities
serve to unite them by rendering them tributaries to each
others' wants, to whom seedtime and harvest, the rain
and the frost, the canker-worm and the potato-rot, bring
the same joys or troubles, children of one country, not
jealous and encroaching rivals. He gave in conclusion a
toast complimentary to the State of Maryland.
Mr. Smyth is also a member and a vice-president of
the American Pomological Society, which, under the
lead of the venerable Marshall P. "Wilder, " still lives,"
and continues its good work of improving our fruits.
These varied employments and activities served to bring
Mr. Smyth to the attention of the State, and he received
twenty votes in the convention of 1859 which nominated
Hon. Ichabod Goodwin for governor. The next A'ear he
was made president of the nominating convention, and
on taking the chair, spoke briefly as follows :
GENTLEMEN* OF THE CONVENTION :
"When I see so many men around me of longer experi-
ence and greater ability, I wonder at your selection of so
AGKICULTUKAL SOCIETIES. 97
humble a person as myself to preside over your delibera-
tions. But by your friendly action, gentlemen, I am en-
couraged in assuming my duties. I know that I am not
expected to make a speech, after the very eloquent one to
which you have just listened. But I desire to congratu-
late you on the very favorable circumstances under which
we are assembled, and the encouraging auspices under
which we commence the campaign. The Republican
party was never so strong in New Hampshire and in the
nation [cheers], never so well organized or so thoroughly
united in the justice of their cause, as at present [cheers].
The Republican party in Congress, standing shoulder to
shoulder, are challenging the admiration of the world
[cheers], and we believe that their firm adherence to the
noble policy they are pursuing will continue till a success
will be achieved which the nation can be justly proud of.
And this while the Democratic party are preaching noth-
ing but disunion and slavery extension. The people will
examine the noble principles of the Republican party,
and seeing the issue clearly defined, will put into power
the only true Union party. We have been very fortunate
at all times in having had officers who have been success-
ful ; and we have faith in the fidelity of our leaders, and
in their ability to render in that service which is accom-
plished only by integrity and by devotion to the true in-
terests of the country [applause]. But let us remember
that it is for the principles of the Republican party, and
not for men, that we are contending. Let us be united in
support of those whom we nominate as exponents of those
principles, and they will be sure to triumph [applause].
The seventh annual exhibition of the United States
Agricultural Society, which was held at Chicago in Sep-
tember, 1859, had all the great elements of a national
convocation. Fifty-seven agricultural and horticultural
7
98 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
societies were represented by delegations hailing from
seventeen States, one Territory, the District of Columbia,
arid the Canadas. The vastness of the crowds that
thronged the grounds ; the perfect good order and free-
dom from accident to life and limb ; the splendid and
unequaled display of fine cattle, horses, sheep, and swine ;
the endless array of agricultural implements and inven-
tions ; the steam plows, the machinery, and the agricul-
tural products, all combined to render the fair one of
the greatest occasions of the day arid age. Mr. Smyth's
executive and financial ability was well tested on this oc-
casion, and it was by his vigilance that the receipts at the
gates were upwards of $20,000. Every night, before he
slept, the receipts of the day were counted and deposited
in bank.
During the State political campaign, early in 1860, Mr.
Smyth, then president of the Republican City Club, in-
vited Abraham Lincoln, of Illinois, who had acquired a
national reputation by his contest with Stephen A. Doug-
las for the United States senatorship, to speak at Man-
chester. He was to address the public there at Smyth's
Hall in the evening, and to speak at Concord the previous
afternoon. He came in the early train from Exeter,
where his son Robert (since secretary of war), was a
student at Phillips Academy. Mr. Smyth joined them
in the cars at Manchester, and lie has thus narrated his
recollections of the day.
Mr. Lincoln, when Mr. Smyth entered the car, was
reading the Boston Journal, and after the usual inter-
change of salutations, he remarked : " I was just reading
Seward's speech at Auburn."
To Mr. Smyth's question : " What do you think of it ? "
he replied : " I am delighted with it. That speech will
make Mr. Seward the next President of the United
States."
ABRAHAM LINCOLN. 99
Mr. Smyth said that he had not read the speech, but
he did not believe that Mr. Seward would be the next
President. Arriving at Concord, he accompanied Mr.
Lincoln and his son to the Court House, where the Mer-
rimack County Court was in session. The court, on
learning that Mr. Lincoln was in the anteroom, took a
recess, and Mr. Smyth introduced the distinguished
stranger to the judge and the lawyers, all of whom were
delighted with the interview.
Mr. Lincoln spoke in the afternoon at Phoenix Hall,
Concord, to a crowded and enthusiastic audience. After
the meeting, he returned with Mr. Smyth to Manchester,
and on the way asked him what he should say there in the
evening? Mr. Smyth replied : "Say the same thing you
said at Concord, as near as possible." "That," replied
Mr. Lincoln, " I cannot do, as I never wrote out a politi-
cal speech, or made two alike."
At Smyth's Hall at Manchester that evening every
seat was filled, and all standing room was occupied. Mr.
Smyth, who presided, introduced Mr. Lincoln as the
man who had vanquished the Little Giant in Illinois, and
who was to be the next President of the L'nited States.
Mr. Lincoln was somewhat embarrassed by this unex-
pected introduction, but made no allusion to it in his
speech. He was frequently interrupted by Elder Foss, a
sturdy old Abolitionist, until the audience became pro-
voked, and some cried, " Put him out ! " Thereupon
Mr. Lincoln said, "No ! I mini you to jaw back. This
is the man I wanted to meet here." Then addressing his
questioner, he asked, " AVhat did you say, sir? " Elder
Foss then stated the ground of his opposition to the Re-
publican party, and Mr. Lincoln replied so satisfactorily
that the old man began cheering with the boys. At the
close of the meeting, he was the first man among the
audience to hasten up on the platform, and congratulate
the speaker.
100 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
After the meeting, Mr. Smyth accompanied Mr. Lin-
coln to his room at the City Hotel. Master Robert, be-
ing very drowsy, was put to bed, and Mr. Smyth then sat
for an hour or more conversing with Mr. Lincoln on the
political prospects of the country and his recent contest in
Illinois with Mr. Douglas. Mr. Lincoln remarked that
the introduction at the meeting that evening had taken
him by surprise, he never having been so introduced be-
fore ; " but, of course," said he, " you did n't mean any-
thing?" Mr. Smyth remarked that he did believe what
he had said, and that if he had made the same impres-
sion in the other States where he had spoken that he had
made that day on the people of New Hampshire, he
would certainly receive the presidential nomination.
Mr. Lincoln replied, with earnestness : " 'No I No I
That is impossible. Mr. Seward should and will receive
the nomination. I do not believe that three States will
vote for me in the convention."
Mr. Lincoln having expressed a desire to see some of
the manufactories of Manchester before leaving, the next
morning, at ten o'clock, Mr. Smyth called at the hotel
immediately after breakfast, and escorted him to the
Manchester Print Works. After witnessing the different
descriptions of work, Mr. Lincoln was about to leave for
the cars, when the agent, "Waterman Smith, Esq., pre-
sented him with a dozen pair of hose. Accepting them
with thanks, he put them under his arm, remarking that
he did n't want any paper wrapped around them, but
preferred carrying them as they were. The agent said to
Mr. Lincoln that he gave him the stockings for the pur-
pose of influencing him in favor of an increase of the
duty on imported goods of this character when he should
become President, that our home industry might be pro-
tected. Mr. Lincoln replied that he would certainly do
so, and off they trudged to the railroad station.
ABRAHAM LINCOLN. 101
When Mr. Smyth next met Mr. Lincoln, it was at the
"White House, and he pleasantly alluded to his visit to
Manchester. Mr. Smyth asked him what he had done
with the stockings, and he replied : " I have worn out
one pair, and have a second pair on now." Pulling up
his pantaloons to show them, he added, " I guess they are
rather dirty."
The interviews of Mr. Smyth and Mr. Lincoln after
this were many, and they were all pleasant, seasoned as
they were with the anecdotes for which the first martyr
President was so noted, and which he used as parables
for the expression of his thoughts.
CHAPTER IX.
THE WAR OF THE REBELLION. FIRST VISIT TO EUROPE.
IN October, 1860, the United States Agricultural So-
ciety held its eighth annual exhibition at Cincinnati, O.
The atmosphere was disturbed by the coming political
storm, but the cultivators of the country and their co-
workers were not to be dissuaded from assembling at
their national rallying point. Although the exhibition
was not announced until within a few weeks of its open-
ing, and its managers had to contend with many unfore-
seen obstacles, besides trying the experiment of protract-
ing the term, there was nevertheless a highly creditable
display in almost every department. The pecuniary
profits did not realize the expectations entertained, but
the list of awards show the varied character of the entries,
with the liberal manner in which the society was enabled
to reward exhibitors, and that from the receipts. All ad-
mitted that the voluntary assemblage of thousands of cit-
izens of different States could but have exercised a ben-
eficial influence, for a wide field, was opened for the
friendly interchange of thought upon every branch of
that agricultural industry which has conquered, and now
cultivates, the greatest area of territory ever peopled by
one race.
When the United States Agricultural Society held its
ninth annual meeting at Washington on the second
Wednesday in January, 1861, Mr. Smyth detected a plot
for transferring the government of the society into
Southern hands. A number of Baltimoreans, who had
joined as annual members, were to attend the second
THE WAR OF THE REBELLION. 103
day's session, and it was expected by their votes to elect
a ticket composed entirely of Southerners, who would
thus have been enabled to make the society an append-
age to the " Confederacy " about to be inaugurated. Mr.
Smyth accidentally hearing of this scheme by the prema-
ture boasting of one of its leaders, passed the evening in
recruiting for members among the numerous Northern
men in Washington, who paid their initiation fees and
signed the constitution. The next day, when the society
met, the Northerners had a good working majority, and
they triumphantly re-elected the old board of officers.
The assault upon Fort Sumter, in 1861, aroused a feel-
ing of indignation throughout the loyal North, and every
city, town, and hamlet resounded with the drum-beat " to
arms." Party lines were obliterated, and stalwart citizens,
inspired by a sublime energy, hastened to the support of
the Stars and Stripes. Citizens who were too old to go
to the front, or who were otherwise incapacitated for mili-
tary service, became recruiting officers, while the ladies
saw that the brave boys in blue were provided with flan-
nel underclothing and other articles not supplied by the
General Government. Regiment after regiment went to
the front, with unbronzed faces, constrained garments,
and national ensigns, whose silken folds were fresh from
the hands of those who had presented them. While they
were the saviours of the Republic, they were also the
agents of Divine Providence for the solution of a great
moral problem, the overthrow of slavery. Though leav-
ing a trackless waste behind them, they opened up a way
for the advance of civilization, and with their shafts and
thunderbolts cooled, cleared, and purified the political
atmosphere, which was becoming overheated, foul, and
corrupt. Their thinking bayonets dispelled the mental
darkness of the North, and breaking through the moral
penumbra enshrouding the South, fitted the States for a
reunion upon higher, nobler, and broader grounds.
104 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
Mr. Smyth took an active part in sending forward the
first regiments of New Hampshire troops, which many
believed would be all that would be required, as it had
been predicted by one high in authority that hostilities
would be ended in thirty days. He was, however, called
away, having previously accepted an appointment as one
of the commissioners on the part of the General Govern-
ment from New Hampshire to the International Exhibi-
tion of 1862, at London. It was found by him on his
arrival that only three of the commissioners from the
United States were in attendance, and that nothing had
been done towards arranging the exhibits in the space
allotted to America. Mr. Smyth at once went to work
with his accustomed energy, and, aided by his associates,
S3, 000 was raised by subscription from patriotic citizens
of the United States then in London. Platforms were
constructed, painters and decorators set at work, and an
arrangement of American flags were so placed that no
person " secesh " or otherwise could enter the Amer-
ican Department without passing under the " Stars and
Stripes."
"While Mr. Smyth was abroad, he wrote a series of let-
ters to a friend at home, who furnished extracts from them
for publication in the New Hampshire Journal of Agri-
culture, from whence they are now copied. The editor,
in publishing the first installment, said : " Mr. Smyth's
acquaintances, and they are very numerous, know that
he makes no pretension to be called a man of letters.
Nevertheless, his impressions, fresh and oft-hand in man-
ner, give a very interesting idea of England as seen from
his standpoint. \Ye may remark that the official position
held by him gives uncommon facilities for observation,
and although, as usual, he is doing the work of five men
in the discharge of the duties assigned him, nothing
seems to escape his notice."
FIRST VISIT TO EUROPE. 105
Of the people at the opening of the exhibition, Mr.
Smyth wrote : " Such dresses as the ladies wore I never
imagined. I stepped on the trail of many a dress that
day which cost at least ten thousand dollars. You may
think this rather steep, but it is true. Some of the first
and richest men and women of all nations of the world
were there. . . . The picture gallery alone is half a
mile in length, reckoning its various sections forty-five
feet wide and twenty-five feet high, the walls covered with
works of the best artists in the world. The department
of sculpture is about as extensive, and so on through the
whole. It would take one three months to look at all the
articles in the building. As the common people are not
admitted until June, the visitors are very select, rich, and
dressy. . . . Everything about the whole style of
apparel seems to consist of one easy, flowing drapery,
thrown carelessly yet gracefully on, and looking as though
it might drop off as easily as put on. Seemingly nothing
needs to be untied or unhooked, and yet I have not seen
any dresses fall off, and indeed the ladies don't seem to
trouble themselves at all with the idea that they may do
so. ... Women do not receive so much attention
here as at home, a gentleman rarely giving up his seat to
one, consequently when such is the case, the acknowledg-
ment of the courtesy is very marked.
" I have not heard so much profanity since I have been
in London as may be sometimes heard in Manchester in
one day, though I daily pass a crowd three miles long.
Perfect order and quiet prevails. The Sabbath is respected
about the same as with us, until 5 P. M., when the liquor
shops are opened. Carriages passing any church during
service must walk their horses. The streets are kept in
fine order, on some of them the crowd continues all
night without apparent diminution. The chiming of bells
on the Sabbath is delightful, many of them being high-
106 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
toned and soft as a piano. The parks are finely kept.
In Hyde Park may be seen hundreds of ladies on horse-
back elegantly mounted. The weather has been delight-
ful since I have been here, in that respect differing from
what I had been led to expect. Indeed, in most things, I
must conclude that I am seeing London from a most
favorable standpoint, and am indebted to my position for
extraordinary facilities, which I shall not fail to improve.
" I have been through Westminster Abbey, seen all
the tombs, and read the inscriptions over the kings,
queens, and great men and women of the earth, buried
here, some of them eight hundred years ago. On most
of the tombs are sculptured likenesses of the tenants in
stone, bronze, and marble. Have visited Parliament,
which sits nights, the members with hats on ; also
have seen the Tower, laid my hand and neck on the
block where Anne Boleyn was beheaded, saw the axe
and felt its edge, also the block and axe by which the
Lady Jane Grey suffered death in 1553.
" In the interior of this Tower, where so many polit-
ical prisoners were executed in the early history of
England, I saw the $15,000,000 worth of crown jewels.
The Tower is a good study for a week. Have visited
many of the celebrated gardens and parks, Greenwich
Observatory, Bank of England, Royal Exchange, British
and Kensington Museum, and ascended the dome of St.
Paul's. Fifteen miles out, I visited Hampton Court, the
birthplace and residence of kings and queens innumer-
able. The rooms of the palace are all preserved in the
same condition as when occupied by royalty, furni-
ture, painting, beds, and bed-clothes ; all the walls of the
halls and rooms covered with paintings of the noble fam-
ilies of Europe for centuries.
" At Richmond, near by, I visited the house where
Pope* lived, and the Orleans place, where the French ex-
FIRST VISIT TO EUROPE. 107
Queen Amelie resides with her son the Duke cle
Nemours and Princess Maria Clementine. The ex-
queen, accompanied by her son and daughter, visited the
exhibition the other day. I was interested to see how the
French would treat her when she went through that de-
partment. It was with the most marked respect, many of
them shedding tears, yet she or any of her family would
not be allowed to enter France on any conditions. There
is evidently great affection and pity for her among the
French, but they cannot express it in France. It is said
that the Emperor's detectives secretly watched her, to
report her movements."
CHAPTER X.
JENGLISH TRAITS AND CUSTOMS.
MR. SMYTH was a close observer of the attitude of
Englishmen on our home troubles. " In regard to
American affairs," he wrote, " I do not think there is a
particle of danger of any interference from England, or
has ever been ; most people sympathize with Americans
and the Xorth, when they fairly understand the issue.
I listened to a discussion in Parliament upon the distress
in some parts of England, among the working classes, for
want of cotton ; and although the American question
came directly in debate, nothing was said to which any
Northern man could take exception. There is not so
much tobacco used as in America, neither is the organ of
destructiveness so largely developed as in ours. Xo cut
and hacked seats or fences are seen in the park or any-
where else. Every variety of flowers are scattered over
the parks, but nobody thinks of touching one, or tree or
shrub, though all classes have access to them. Xo notices
' Xot to touch,' but such as this I noticed in one of the
public gardens : ' The public are expected to preserve
what is intended for public enjoyment.' What do you
suppose Manchester boys and girls, who steal fruit and
flowers, would care for such a notice ? Yet it is sufficient
here.
" Old buildings are rarely torn down or painted; the
people have a veneration for everything old. Hair dye
is not used, but gray hair is preferred, and thousands of
youngish men powder their hair to make it appear gray.
Ladies with gray and white hair take especial pains to dis-
ENGLISH TRAITS AND CUSTOMS. 109
play it. I see hundreds of ladies wear white or gray hair
curled and elaborately dressed, and it looks finely. I see
no portrait of "Washington or any American statesman,
except some of the old Tories of the Revolution, but
splendid ones of all English statesmen and officers of
every kind and grade.
" In Paris, while at the imperial circus, the American
flag was brought in on some occasion between the acts,
and was received with most enthusiastic cheers. You
may be sure that my voice was raised to its utmost
capacity.
" Among other cities, I have visited Manchester,
Chester, Birmingham, Stratford-on-Avon, Warwick and
Warwick Castle, Leamington, Kenilworth, Oxford, Read-
ing, Brighton, etc., and have been to the Epsom races, a
great institution here. Spent a day at Chester, the oldest
city in England ; its cathedral is a thousand years old.
It is a walled city ; one part of the wall was built by the
Romans about the time of the Christian era. Under-
ground may still be seen a stone bath and crypt, both of
Roman origin. I examined these relics with great inter-
est, and secured pieces to bring home. Many of the
houses are supposed to be from five hundred to one
thousand years old ; one oak frame house has the date
1003 on its gable and on one other timber, which is, by
unquestionable authority, the true date. Brighton is on
the sea-shore fifty miles from London, and really ' Lon-
don out of town.' Here the rich Londoners spend the
hot season. It is delightfully- situated, having five miles
of beach. L T nlike Newport, the fine houses are built
close together, on the beach. ' The city has 80,000 inhab-
itants, and is entirely supported by the people who visit
there.
" A reception by Mr. Baring, M. P., the English banker,
and one of her majesty's commissioners for the exhi-
110 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
bition, was given at the Crystal Palace at Sydenham last
Friday. The hours of our invitation were from 3 to 7
o'clock, P. M. ; the palace and its splendid gardens were
appropriated to his guests. Blondin performed in the
garden, where were stationed two of the best bands in
England, sixty pieces each. The Handel and Haydn
Society held forth in the great music hall, the hundred
fountains were playing, and numerous attractions of other
kinds were seen everywhere. Guests began to eat as
soon as they arrived ; a table was set in the entrance hall,
more than 200 feet long, laden with varieties of choice
fruit, every conceivable kind of pastry, cold meats, ices,
wines, etc., everything selected of the very best kind.
For instance, every strawberry was of perfect form and
immense size, every bunch of grapes was like the sample
bunches you sometimes see in windows in Boston and
ISTew York. As soon as anything was taken, it was im-
mediately replaced, so when the guests left, the tables
were just as handsomely loaded and arranged as when
they arrived. This, however, was but the whetting of
the appetite, before we were introduced. After passing
through the reception rooms, we went where we pleased
about the buildings or gardens. Xear by the reception
rooms dinner was served with seats for every guest, where
one could go where he liked, and have any kind of fish,
flesh, or fowl I ever saw, heard, or read of. There were
one thousand people in all, and ladies composed about one
half of the company.
" I attended a banquet given by the lady mayoress at
the Mansion House residence of the lord mayor. This
entertainment in many respects surpassed that of Mr.
Baring. There were 1,400 present, and yet no crowd,
the mansion is so large. The dancing and supper halls
were each of them more elegant than the senate chamber
at Washington, and the whole mansion is furnished su-
ENGLISH TRAITS AND CUSTOMS. Ill
perbly. There were at least 800 ladies present. The
daughter of the lord mayor, a pretty young lady, received
and shook hands with every guest, which took her till
twelve o'clock, and then she danced continuously till half-
past four, one hour after daylight, when I left.
" The Americans in London will celebrate the Fourth
of July by a great dinner ; consequently I shall remain,
and intend to leave for Germany, Switzerland, Italy, etc.,
the day following.
" Towards night we rode four miles from the palace to
the churchyard, which is the scene of Gray's immortal
elegy, and where he now sleeps in a humble grave beside
that of his mother, as he desired. A monument has been
erected to his memory a little out of the churchyard, for
there is not room within. The same old church without
alteration, the same yew trees which were there when he
wrote and which helped inspire the elegy, still remain ;
and while we were there gathering flowers from his grave
at sundown, breathing in the inspiration of the beautiful
scene, the ' curfew ' tolled its evening vesper as of old.
Nothing was wanting to increase the interest of the time.
Xot far from here is the old family seat of "William
Penn ; also Eton College, founded by Henry VI in 1441.
" AVindsor Castle has been for many years the abode of
the sovereigns of England. The Round Tower is 800
years old. The household consists of 350 persons. The
park consists of 9,600 acres, almost entirely covered with
immense old trees except the walks and drives. JSTothing
can be imagined more beautiful than the view from the
O
top of the castle, views into the counties of Berks,
Bedford, Brooks, Oxford, and Middlesex, in which last
named is London, twenty-two miles distant. The Thames
winds its course close by the foot of the palace. Volumes
might be tilled in describing the interesting objects in this
neighborhood. The Ascot race-grounds are about eight
112 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
miles from here. The annual races came off a week ago.
Of course I was there to see, as also at Epsom to see the
Derby and Oaks the week before.
" One of the most pleasant fetes I have attended was at
Hatfield House, seat of the Marquis of Salisbury, at Hat-
field, nearly twenty miles out of London. This is said to
be one of the finest houses, and surrounded by the most
beautiful grounds, of any in England. They are many
hundred acres in extent and admirably laid out. "Walks
miles in length, shaded by immense rows of old trees and
lined with every variety of flowers. Lawns kept smooth
as a house floor, acres of them, every variety of hill and
dale ; brooks, waterfalls, and fountains interspersed ;
bands of music were stationed at various points in the
forests and grounds, and in the palace.
" The guests strolled about where they pleased in
palace, forest, avenues, among the acres of flowers, and
through the stables, kept neat as a parlor, every horse
and pony with silver-mounted harness waiting to be in-
spected. Everywhere seats and chairs were found, that
one might rest as often as desirable. Refreshments of
every name and nature were provided in various places.
Lord and Lady S. received their guests on the lawn in
front of the palace, from two to eight o'clock, p. M. Many
celebrities were present, and people claiming to have the
best blood of England (whatever that may be) in their
veins. The Marquis of Lansdowne ; the ex-Queen of
France, and members of the Orleans family; the great
parliamentary orator, Mr. Gladstone, and his lady ; Mr.
Disraeli and lady ; the Duke and Duchess of Marlborough,
etc. The American minister, Mr. Adams, and his wife
were present, and in fact no small fry except myself.
Lady Salisbury was dressed in simple white, and wore a
black hat. She received her guests in an easy, unaffected
manner. All ages were present, from sixteen to ninety,
ENGLISH TKAITS AND CUSTOMS. 113
and I never saw such handsome old women. Carriages
and people here turn to the left instead of to the right, as
with us. I discovered this the day I arrived, after run-
ning into a fat woman, from whose flowing drapery it
took me some time to disentangle myself; since then I
have turned to the left and passed safely.
" By courtesy of the governor of the Bank of England,
I was allowed to see the private apartments of that great
institution, and to inspect every operation in detail. The
banking rooms cover four and a half acres. It employs
1,000 clerks and others all the time, manufactures its own
paper, books, and ink, does its own printing all within the
bank. I had the privilege of examining their books,
manner of doing business, etc."
CHAPTER XI.
AGRICULTURE IN ENGLAND.
MR, SMYTH had also been commissioned by the United
States Agricultural Society to represent it in England
and on the continent of Europe. In this capacity, he
attended the annual exhibition of the Royal Agricultural
Society, which was held in Battersea Park in 1862. " It
is said," he wrote, " to be the greatest show of horses,
cattle, sheep, and swine, and farming implements, ever
held in the world. The pens containing the animals upon
exhibition measure five and a half miles in length, and
such animals I never saw before. Specimens from all
parts of Europe were here. Some of the work-horses
weighed 2,400 pounds. Carriage horses are about as
large as ours, but the work-horses are nearly twice as
heavy. They are kept entirely distinct, and never bred
together. The Swiss cows wore bells on their necks, of
sweet tone, often quite large, and held by an ornamental
strap. French stock is not equal to the English ; it is
nearly all black or speckled. Most of the Scotch cattle
have no horns, but are very fine animals.
" I attended a trial of steam plowing and digging, but
did not think the machines worked as well as some I saw
at Chicago, at the exhibition of the United States Agri-
cultural Society. In agricultural implements we are
ahead of England, certainly in quality if not in quantity.
Our forks, plows, and mowing-machines are far better
than theirs. In stock-sheep and work-horses they beat
us, but not in carriage or family horses. The short-
horned Durham cattle predominate here over all other
AGRICULTURE IN ENGLAND. 115
blood. I saw one bull of this breed sold for $4,000, and
one stock-horse for $25,000."
Again he writes : " In company with C. L. Flint, Esq.,
secretary of the Massachusetts Board of Agriculture, and
Dr. J. "W. Hoyt, editor of the Wisconsin Farmer, I vis-
ited Windsor Castle, where the queen now resides. We
visited the state apartments, and the queen's model farm,
dairy, stock, etc. The dairy house is of white marble,
floor, ceiling, and walls of china, with water constantly
running around the room, the evaporation of which keeps
the rooms sweet and cool. The milk-pans are of white
china, and everything is as neat as it can possibly be
made. I drank some of the milk. The stables, poultry
houses, and all their surroundings, are much nicer than
the houses of many of her subjects."
Mr. Smyth also visited the model experimental farm of
Great Britain, of which he wrote : " Tiptree farm, owned
by Alderman Mechi, is situated on Tiptree Heath, an ex-
tensive tract of barren land about forty miles from Lon-
don, at the Calverton station. Mr. Mechi's desire seems
to have been to employ his capital in some business that
would pay ; and being a man of enterprise and ingenuity,
he purchased about one hundred and fifty acres of this
poor heath for the purpose of trying an experiment on
liquid manure. That it might pay, his buildings were all
of the plainest and most substantial kind, nothing being
spent for ornament. His stables were floored with nar-
row slats, through the spaces between which all the ma-
nure was washed. He has a small, cheap steam-engine
by which water is forced upon the floors, and the manure
carried into a vast reservoir. He uses no litter, believ-
ing that cattle fatten faster and live more healthily with-
out it. All his straw is cut up and mixed with roots, oil
cake, and grass for fodder. He considers straw worth at
least $10 a ton for this purpose, or half the value of hay.
The power derived from the steam-engine cuts the fod-
116 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
der, grinds the corn, pumps the liquid manure upon the
land, and is applied to every possible purpose, saving the
labor of many hands. Mr. Mechi employs but four men ;
his crops are wheat and grass. The grass is cut three
times a year, and much of it fed green to stock. From
fifty to sixty bushels of wheat per acre is considered a
good crop. He sows to the acre, one bushel of wheat,
two of oats, or one and a half of barley. The stock is
kept up all the time, and Mr. Mechi estimates that the
amount of fodder required by one animal running at
large will be sufficient for three when kept up. In this
his experience agrees with that of Mr. Quincy, in his
treatise on the soiling of cattle. Being asked if he did
not think it hard for cattle to lay and stand on slats, he
said that actual experiment had convinced him to the
contrary ; that the cattle on the slats fatted better and
lodged more comfortably than those on straw. It should
be borne in mind that everything is washed scrupulously
clean several times a day, and that the climate is not so
severe as our own. The land is thoroughly under-
drained with tile from one and a half to two inches in
diameter. At intervals over the farm there are open res-
ervoirs into which the water flows, being like cool spring
water. In the middle of each plot of twelve acres is a
hydrant which receives the liquid manure, from whence
it is distributed by hose like that of a fire-engine, over
the soil. The manure is applied once a week. Before
being pumped out, a large hose is let down into the great
vat, and air forced through so as to mix it thoroughly.
Mr. Mechi thinks he has established two or three truths
by his experiments ; and first, that farming will pay. It
must be remembered that the land was absolutely worth-
less to begin with, and that the application of manure
alone produces the crops. On his entire capital invested,
he makes seven and a half per cent, a large rate of in-
terest in a country where three per cent is considered a
AGRICULTURE IN ENGLAND. 117
fair return. Secondly, he has proved the value of straw
used as fodder when mixed with roots to be quite one
half that of hay ; and thirdly, that straw can he econom-
ically used in farm lahor.
" In his reception-room a large book is kept, in which
visitors are requested to write their names and opinion of
his system. He was especially desirous that the real
opinion should be expressed, and being a shrewd man,
doubtless profited by the suggestions and criticisms
made."
While observing agricultural matters, Mr. Smyth con-
tinued to pay the strictest attention to his duties as a
United States commissioner to the World's Exhibition.
He saw that every article entered for premium was
brought to the notice of the proper board of judges, by
whom it might have been otherwise overlooked, and the
United States thus received an unusually large propor-
tion of medals. He also took occasion, whenever an op-
portunity presented itself, to say a word in defense of the
Union, and against the sympathy with secession then
manifesting itself. Among the letters received by him, 1
was the following, from Mr. George Wallis. Mr. Wallis
O ' O
had made, in 1853, a report to the British government
on the manufactures of the United States, which was
considered as so important that its reprint was ordered
in 1862. Mr. Smyth, before leaving for the United
States, made application for a copy of this report, that he
might communicate it to the authorities at Washington,
and in due time he received this letter :
16 VICTORIA Row, TULIIAM ROAD,
LONDON, Xov. 6, 1862.
MY DEAR SIR :
To-morrow I hope to deliver into the hands of persons
acting for the United States at the International Exhibi-
tion, a parcel containing the government copy of my
report on the manufactures of the United States in 1853 >
118 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
as presented to Parliament, and which I obtained after I
last had the pleasure of seeing you, as also a certificate
respecting Messrs. Gardner Brewer & Co. 's goods, which
I promised to either give or obtain for you. I regret I
did not see you as you passed through London, but I was
at Paris with Mrs. Wallis at the time you returned from
the Continent. May I ask you to favor me with a line on
receipt of the packet, as I shall be anxious to know you
have got it. Did space and time permit, I would say a
good deal to you, of the present attitude of affairs and the
relations of England to the United States. At times I
feel terribly humiliated at seeing the very, very outrageous
conduct of a certain section of my countrymen, in the
matter of the struggle between the Xorth and South.
Happily I can believe still that the national heart is sound,
but the class of people who are the real enemies of free
government everywhere have been more than usually
active among us of late. These are the sympathizers
with the South. It is the class which opposes the educa-
tion of the people except in a stereotype form, opposes
'reform, parliamentary and administrative.
These were the obstructers to free trade, religious
equality, sympathizers with despotism everywhere, espe-
cially the despotism of a class. In fact, they constitute
what we consider the worn-out political party of this
country, and they have influence so far as loud talking
and unscrupulous writing will give them, and no more.
They may annoy, but can do no harm. Trusting you are
well,
Yours truly,
GEORGE AVALLIS.
Hox. FREDERICK SMYTH, Comm., etc.
Meanwhile Mr. Smyth, in company with Mr. Flint,
visited France, Germany, Switzerland, and Italy. While
on the Mediterranean in a sailing vessel, he met with
AGRICULTURE IN ENGLAND. 119
an accident which would have discouraged any ordinary
traveler, receiving a wound from a fall into the hold,
which made it almost impossible for him to walk. By
means, however, of an attendant with a chair, he bravely
continued his sight-seeing. It may be remarked here that
this tour was not that of one who enjoys a vacation, or
who lazily and listlessly wanders through foreign lands to
kill time, but was the result of an eager desire to see and
know about men arid things. In fact, he made it his
school, and few men have managed to absorb so much in
such a brief space of time.
He was at Rome during the darkest period of our
nation's fortunes, and advices from home filled him with
solicitude. He had left America under the ninety-days'
hallucination of Secretary Seward ; but as this delusion
was dispelled, he felt that his services might be needed
more than he had thought, and while at Rome he deter-
mined to return. When he reached London, " home-
ward bound," the news was more encouraging, and the
prospects of the Xorth began to brighten, but notwith-
standing he continued on, and landed at ]S"ew York in
September.
When he reached home in that month, the Tenth Regi-
ment, under Colonel Donahoe, was just departing for the
war. Citizens purchased and presented horses to the
officers. Ex-Mayor Smyth made the presentation to
Major Jesse Angell, referring to his patriotism and self-
sacrifice in fitting terms. " A large showy horse, pur-
chased from Mr. Charles Rowell," was the comment of
the press on the animal presented. Major Angell was a
fine-looking officer, and left a good place in the mills for
the war in behalf of his country.
Returning to his Manchester home, Mr. Smyth gave his
time to the care of the moneyed institutions under his
charge. He at all times encouraged people to subscribe
to the Government loan, and he took an active part in
120 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
every measure calculated to increase popular faith in the
war measures of the administration. At that time, few
moneyed men or banks in town cared to follow his example,
but the event justified his sagacity. Mr. Smyth's course
in finance has been strictly conservative ; he has never
dabbled in fancy stocks or in merely speculative matters
for himself or for his bank, and the reputation thus ac-
quired enabled him, as will be seen, to lift the State from
a condition in which it was compelled to pay exorbitant
interest to one not inferior to that of any in the Union.
In May, 1863, a fair was held at Manchester iri aid of
the National Sanitary Commission. Mr. Smyth was the
chairman of the managing committee, and gave the use
of his hall, in addition to his own zealous personal efforts,
to promote the success of the undertaking. It was a suc-
cess, and the sum raised was about four thousand dollars.
He felt that every possible exertion should be made to
sustain the soldiers in the field for upholding and main-
taining the principles of free government, and was ever
ready to advance any measure calculated to promote the
comfort of these brave Boys in Blue.
After the battle of Gettysburg, he hastened with others
to that bloody field, where he witnessed the sufferings of
the wounded who had rallied round their battle-flags as
they had pressed forward through seas of blood and over
hecatombs of the dead until the once proud host of the
secessionists was flying in defeat. Mr. Smyth labored
among the wounded soldiers until he was himself pros-
trated by exposure and over-exertion, and he was forced
to seek medical advice. A surgeon who was present, in
a letter wrote : " The prompt, efficient, and able manner
in which he aided both officers and men with counsel and
means to procure needed articles for the relief of distress,
was remarked by all. Through drenching rain, through
mud, wading swollen creeks, he seemed everywhere
present/' In this case, however, his zeal was too great
AGRICULTURE IN ENGLAND. 121
for his strength. The sickening effluvia of the battle-
field, the sounds and sights of distress beyond all human
aid, added to neglect of proper food, brought him to a
sick bed, where he was confined during most of the fall
of 1863.
The next May, however, news came of the horrors of
war as displayed on the battle-fields of the Wilderness,
and Mr. Smyth again hastened to the front. Under the
broiling sun of a Virginia May, with arms bare to the
work, he helped carry the wounded from the field to
Fredericksburg, where such care was given them as could
be had. While tenderly caring for the wounded, he en-
couraged the survivors to " fight it out on that line,"
assuring them that they would eventually be led to vic-
tory, glory, and final triumph. With fresh hopes and
renewed courage they would rally around the starry ban-
ner with renewed ardor and enthusiasm, while those cared
for in the hospitals were anxious to join their regiments
and to participate in the final victory. Mr. Smyth has
since received many testimonials from those whom he had
encouraged or succored, some of them declaring that they
owed, under God, their lives to his tender care.
CHAPTER XII.
HOME AFFAIRS.
IN this year, 1863, Mr. Smyth was for the fourth 'time
elected mayor of Manchester, under peculiar circum-
stances. The then existing situation, and the result, was
thus graphically described in an editorial article in the
Manchester Mirror and American, of Xov. 8, 1864 :
" A year ago this month the governor and council of
Xew Hampshire wisely recommended the towns and cities
of this State to cash the Government bounty of $302.00,
payable in installments, and fill up their quotas. The
advice was taken. It took between three and four mil-
lions of dollars of ready money to carry out the idea. It
drained every bank, and made, for the time being, the
best securities seem of no account in raising money.
Manchester was in trouble ; she needed more funds than
could be had, and with all her wealth, seemed like a beg-
gar. ... In this critical condition of financial affairs,
the question of mayor of this city came up. The field was
canvassed again and again, and each time the report would
be, ' Hon. Frederick Smyth is the man, but he won't take
it.' It was a necessity that the chief executive of the city
should have the confidence of business men and be familiar
with financial matters. Finally the pressure was so great
that some of our leading citizens went to him and con-
vinced him that it was his duty to accept of the onerous
position one year. He reluctantly assented, with a dis-
tinct understanding that he should not again be called
upon for that place. Some ten years ago he was three
times elected to fill the office of mayor, each year with
MAYOR'S FOURTH INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 128
increased majorities, and time had shown that his munici-
pal record grew higher and brighter as new opportunities
to judge of its merits presented themselves. And a year
ago he was elected for a fourth term without show of
opposition, an event unprecedented in our municipal his-
tory, or in that of any city in the State. It was a wise
choice. From the moment he took the mayor's chair,
harmony prevailed in every department of the city govern-
ment. He is a peace-maker. He believes that ' a house
divided against itself cannot stand,' and has the power of
discerning almost intuitively the average sense of man-
kind, what is generally called common-sense, and hence is
a natural leader of the people."
Jan. 5, 1864, Mayor Smyth delivered before both
branches of the city council in convention assembled his
fourth inaugural address.
GENTLEMEN OF THE CITY COUNCIL :
Selected by our fellow-citizens to conduct the municipal
affairs of this city for the year this day commencing, and
having taken a solemn obligation to devote to that pur-
pose our best endeavors, we cannot now escape the respon-
sibility we have assumed.
I congratulate myself that, on again assuming the
duties involved in my position, I am to be associated with
so large a number, in each branch of the city council,
who have had experience in the legislation of our city ;
who not only know what has been done, but what is re-
quired, and the most feasible mode to obtain the desired
results.
In accordance with the requirements of the city charter
and with custom, I shall ask your attention to some of the
more important matters that will become subjects of city
legislation.
The annual report of the receipts and expenditures of
the past year not being completed, I cannot now refer in
124 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
detail to financial aftairs. It is hoped that the report will
soon be before you.
I shall not be thought to overstate the case, when I say
that no city council, in the history of our municipal
government, now commencing its eighteenth year, has
been required to consider and act on questions so momen-
tous as those which will immediately occupy our atten-
tion. We are to assume the management of a debt
nearly or quite twice as large as that of any previous year,
while the State tax is to be doubled.
What shall be done with so great a debt, what necessity
there may be for its increase or what probability of its
reduction, what means shall be provided for payment of
interest, and whether the burden of taxation can be
lightened without public detriment, are questions to be
carefully considered. With these large liabilities of city,
county, and State, come increased taxes in like propor-
tion. However unwelcome such facts maybe, it is better
to look them squarely in the face, that we may be the bet-
ter prepared to meet them. Of the creation of such in-
debtedness, or whether it was or not in part or in whole
properly incurred, we are not called upon now to decide,
we must take matters as we find them.
The limited investigation I have been able to give the
subject of the city finances since my election, does not
enable me to express at this time any decided opinion in
relation to what should be our course of action in this
regard. I therefore will only briefly state that, from in-
formation obtained from our worthy city treasurer, I find
the indebtedness of the city, on the first day of the present
month, to be as follows :
Bonds due, 1S9:$ 8711,000
18SN 85,000
July 1, 1W2 .... 22,500
Jan. 1, 1SU .... 10,000
Notes due, July 1, 1878 .... 3,500
MAYOR'S FOURTH INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 125
Bonds due, July 1, 1877 .... $22,500
July 1, 1874 .... 20,000
July 1, 1872 .... 20,000
Notes due, Feb. 1, 1872 .... 3,600
Bonds due, Jan. 1, 1871 .... 6,000
July 1, 1867 .... 20,000
Jan. 1, 1866 .... 6,000
Notes due, June 1, 1864 .... 6,000
May 2, 1864 .... 2,300
April 13, 1864 .... 2,100
Feb. 16, 1864 .... 2,500
Feb. 9, 1864 .... 10,000
Notes due, on demand ..... 69,400
Interest due, Jan. 1, 1864 .... 8,025
Due State of New Hampshire and County of
Hillsborough, for taxes of 1863 . . 27,754
Due on bills appi'oved in treasurer's hands,
not paid 12,928
$380,107
The amount of outstanding bills due I have no means
of knowing at the present time, neither can I inform you
how much we may receive from the State and General
Government, or from other sources, or how much the ex-
penses of the city will be from this time until the taxes
of the present year can be realized in June. The treasurer
informs me that, in his opinion, we shall be under the
necessity of obtaining by loan about forty thousand dol-
lars, to pay the demands on the treasury by the families
of soldiers, before any money can be received from the
State for that purpose. He is also of the opinion that at
least ten thousand dollars in addition must be raised, to
pay demands now due, and which may become due, over
and above the money he now has on hand, and the receipts
from all sources from the present time till the new taxes
are assessed in June.
From the foregoing it will be seen that we are liable to
be called upon to pay $69,400, the amount of notes due
126 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
on demand, at any time. Other notes, amounting to $22,-
900, will mature in the course of five months. It will be
noticed also that, by the treasurer's estimate, $50,000 more
must be raised soon, to meet demands before named, over
and above all estimated receipts. I name the subject here,
in order that it may be known, as nearly as possible, how
we stand at the time we assume office, and also for the
purpose of urging your immediate attention to the mat-
ter. I have no doubt of our ability to maintain the credit
of the city unimpaired.
To confine our debt within manageable limits, and so
to control taxation that our men of business and capitalists
may not be driven from among us, will require rigid
economy in expenditures and discriminating firmness on
the part of each member of the city council, in resisting
applications for improvements, which, though desirable,
cannot all be effected at once. I do not advocate a parsi-
monious policy, even in our present financial condition ;
but a close scrutiny into the wisdom and necessity of every
proposed outlay is indispensable to the public welfare.
The power to make appropriations and to expend them
rests exclusively with the city council, except in cases
otherwise provided for by State and city laws. I do not
understand that any standing or special committee of the
city council, or of either board, has authority to expend
or control any appropriation, unless specially authorized
by a vote of the city council.
Although the mayor is by the charter made the chief
executive officer of the city, and is required to exercise
supervision over the conduct of all subordinate officers,
he has no authority to expend money unless authorized
by the city council.
A thorough system of accounts and a rigid account-
ability should be required of persons having the expendi-
ture of public money. The appropriations should be
MAYOR'S FOURTH INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 127
made large enough for the purpose for which they are
assigned, and should in no instance be overdrawn without
a vote by the proper authority. Every officer and agent
disbursing the public money should be held personally ac-
countable for every cent expended in excess of the appro-
priation. If this system be not well enforced, we shall
be under the necessity at the commencement of every
year to resort to temporary loans to supply deficiencies of
the previous year. These loans will soon become a part
of the permanent debt of the city, and thus our debt go
on increasing imperceptibly to the authority that permits
it to be contracted.
That " the world is governed too much," is a maxim as
true as it is old, and which no one conversant with history
or experience in human nature will deny. The city
records will show that our own law-makers have not
escaped the universal temptation. It has been found
necessary from time to time to prune and condense the
ordinances. In many instances the State laws would have
been sufficient for our needs, and in other cases the city
law-makers have not made themselves familiar with the
enactments of the State, with which their work has con-
flicted. A new revision of our ordinances is necessary at
this time, as few persons have ever perused all the laws
that encumber our records, or ever will. We should
avoid the passage of any law not absolutely required.
Xot questioning the ability or judgment of the asses-
sors of previous years, I desire to call the attention of the
present board to the subject of our public taxes, with a
view to their more equitable distribution. It is an ad-
mitted fact, that property in this city has always been
valued at a much higher rate than it has in the aggregate
throughout the State. This difference in the valuation
would be of no consequence if we were taxed for city
purposes only, but inasmuch as on this valuation our
128 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
share of the State and county tax is based, it is of vast
importance to us, the more especially at this time, when
this public tax is to be about doubled, or nearly as much
as all our tax for municipal purposes, and also as upon the
appraisal of this and the last year the apportionment of
the public tax of this and the three next years is to be
made. The effect of this difference in appraisal may be
seen in the last apportionment of the State tax. Man-
chester's proportion of this tax under that apportionment
was $76.84 on every thousand dollars raised by the State,
or nearly one thirteenth of all the State tax. Does any
one believe that Manchester does, or ever did, contain
one thirteenth part of all the property in the State ? I
am aware that the city council cannot control this matter,
but if our present able board of assessors can feel it to be
their duty to remedy this evil, even in part, my object in
alluding to it in this connection will be accomplished.
One of the largest appropriations we are annually called
upon to make, is for the support and maintenance of our
public schools ; and I am free to say, gentlemen, that it is
not here that we should first commence to lessen our ap-
propriations. The expense of our schools is indeed great,
but the expense of a lack of education would be incalcu-
lably greater. Every good and true man, patriot, and
Christian will desire that our schools be thorough and
efficient in their work. Xever before was the impression
stronger than now upon the minds of the good and
thoughtful, that, if this country is to be, as it has been, a
government of the people, the masses must become
educated ; and to this end that schooling for our children
must be as free as possible, so free that all can share it,
and the schools so good that none can despise them. To
me it is a pleasant thought, that the loyal condition of our
Xew England States is largely attributed to the general
intelligence of the citizen, an intelligence, as we all
MAYOR'S FOURTH INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 129
know, that comes from our free schools. Considering
their immediate pecuniary cost, we have a right to ex-
pect much in return. The influence of the competent
teacher ought to be felt upon pupils, not only within the
walls of the schoolroom, but in society, and wherever a
scholar goes.
One thing is greatly to be desired in our schools : the
cultivation of a spirit of taste and careful usage of the
public property, which shall prevent the destruction and
defacing of school buildings, fences, trees, etc. On this
subject too much cannot be said by parents and teachers.
In an inaugural address to the city council, March 15,
1853, and again March 24, 1854, I took occasion to rec-
ommend the establishment of a free public library, the
" Manchester Atheneum " having liberally tendered the
gift of their valuable library to the city for that pur-
pose, providing the city should maintain and annu-
ally enlarge it. It has now been in operation about ten
years, and, it seems to me, fully justifies the anticipations
of its founders, and has proved a powerful auxiliary in
the cause of education and morals. I have also had
reason to know that it has added to the reputation and
character of the city abroad, as a token of wise and lib-
eral legislation.
A more extensive reading-room, as a place of quiet
resort for all who chose to avail themselves of it, was I
think one of the original features contemplated by its
friends, and I have never looked with pleasure upon a
curtailment of this branch of the enterprise. It is not my
wish here to suggest an immediate additional outlay of
money, the times will not admit of it, but I look for-
ward to a time when our public library will assume much
more importance than now. It is not extravagant for us
to imagine that at some future time we may see not only
a free library of books and an extensive reading-room, but,
130 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
in connection with the same, paintings and works of art.
It is to be hoped that the institution will take so deep a
hold upon the hearts of our citizens, that individuals of
wealth will consider it an object worthy of endowment,
and will desire to have their names associated with it as
benefactors.
All populous communities have found it necessary to
protect, by organized force, the property and persons of
the well-disposed from the vicious. We are to expect no
reprieve from this necessity until the Divine law is more
fully recognized and obeyed. The expenditure of large
sums of money does not always accomplish the desired
object. One officer, with a character for strict integrity,
courage, and perseverance, united with a discriminating
judgment and good temper, who is determined in the dis-
charge of duty, is better than any number of men with-
out such qualities. The best evidence of a good officer
in this department is the amount of crime he prevents,
rather than the number of cases he brings before the
police court.
An impression prevails that the number of officers in
the police department of our small city is unnecessarily
large, and that the expense of the same might be lessened
without public detriment.
Good roads and sidewalks enhance the value of prop-
erty, as well as add to the comfort and convenience of
citizens. Notwithstanding the large amount annually
appropriated for the purpose, our roads are not always in
a desirable condition, as is proved by daily experience
and occasional vexatious suits, against the city, for
damages. The most eminent civil engineers have made
road-building a study, and we should do no less than ex-
ercise the utmost care in the appointment of men who
have the supervision of the highways. AVe shall not
reach the perfection of those famous old roads, which
MAYOR'S FOURTH INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 131
have borne the peaceful and warlike trains of two thou-
sand years without material repair or amendment; hut
we ought by skill and care to place our highways in bet-
ter condition, with less annual expenditure of money.
The paving of Elm street, which for several years has
been continued, was not extended last year, although, I
am informed, an appropriation was made for that pur-
pose. This improvement of our principal business thor-
oughfare is, in my opinion, an economical expenditure,
and I recommend its continuance the present year, to
such an extent as you may think advisable. Should you
coincide in this view, an early contract for the stone will
be necessary, in order to insure the completion of the
work in the proper season. A somewhat extended obser-
vation has led me to the opinion that smaller blocks ot
granite than those heretofore used for paving will answer
a better purpose. Much care should be exercised in the
proper preparation of the streets for paving, in order that
the work may be permanent.
Improvements are absolutely demanded in our side-
walks, and the various considerations arising from this
subject will require much thought. Whether the city
shall compel the abutters to build and keep the sidewalk
in repair, or, in case the work is undertaken by the city,
what compensation shall be made to those who have al-
ready done their part, we ought speedily to determine.
Citizens who notice defects in road or sidewalk should
make it a duty to report the same at once to the proper
officer, as much expense and suffering may thus be
avoided. Some State law may be required to enable us
to exercise the needed control over the subject of side-
walks.
An annual appropriation has been made for several
years and paid, for watering Kim street. This outlay, if
judiciously expended, is conducive to the comfort of our
132 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
own citizens and visitors, who mostly congregate on this
our business thoroughfare, and the safety of property lia-
ble to injury by dust; but for some reason it seems to
have had but little efficiency except on rainy clays. I
would suggest that the object may be better attained by
taking the water, necessary for the northerly portion of
the street, from the reservoir on Concord square, which
might easily be conducted to a cistern in the rear of the
city stable, and that the teams kept in readiness for the
steam fire engines be used to distribute the water, always
being readily available in case of fire.
The expense of lighting our streets has become quite
an item. Some are of the opinion that, for the money
we pay, the streets should be better lighted. The light-
ing and extinguishing the lamps is done by an employee
of the gas company. Would it not be sounder economy
for some officer of the city, whose time may not be fully
occupied otherwise, to perform this duty, or provide some
means to ascertain that the city has all the light it pays
for, especially as complaint is made that the lights are
often extinguished before the stipulated time ?
A careful survey of the location, capacity, and grade of
our sewers should be made, and a map of the same pre-
served. There is reason to believe that this knowledge
w r ould have saved considerable needless expense hereto-
fore incurred.
Our public grounds, so indispensable to health and
comfort, should receive yearly careful attention, and the
improvements, commenced years ago, be continued.
Every tree should be protected and preserved, their losses
replaced, the fences, grass plots, and ponds kept in good
and tasteful condition, and free from every unsightly ob-
ject. The neatness of the commons has much to do with
the health of the city. Means should be taken to secure
the purity of the water in our public grounds, by protect-
MAYOR'S FOURTH INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 133
ing the water-courses leading thereto from corrupting de-
posits. I have reason to helieve that the munificent spirit
on the part of the Amoskeag Company, which granted
so much land for public benefit, is not yet exhausted, and
that by consultation with the agent, who has taken so
much interest in beautifying and improving our city, a
still larger open space may be secured at some eligible
situation for parades and public gatherings.
The only successful weapons to be used against pauper-
ism are industry, temperance, and economy. To induce
those who are disposed to rely on the public for support
to practice these virtues, is the duty of every good citizen.
The number who claim support or aid from the city is
said to be increasing, not so much from any general
increase of pauperism, as from the fact that more such
persons, by lapse of time and by taxation, have gained a
residence here.
The city farm is a valuable aid in support of the poor,
and should receive every care and attention to increase its
productiveness and render it profitable. The street clean-
ings, which formerly added so much to its fertility, have
not, I am sorry to learn, been at all times used for so good
a purpose. The value of these accumulations is very
much underrated; with the annual application of these
fertilizing substances so easily obtained from the city, our
farm may soon be made the most productive in the county.
The expense of this cleansing would be much lessened by
employing inmates of the house of correction and the
farm teams.
That beautiful and sacred spot, Valley Cemetery, has
been nearly all disposed of, in individual and family lots.
With wise forethought, the authorities some years since
purchased Pine Grove Cemetery, a place in many respects
suited to the purpose to which it is devoted. It is to be
regretted that greater varietv in hill and valley does not
134 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
combine with the other qualifications of the new location,
but it is doubtless the best that could be procured. The
delightful grove upon it may be much improved by judi-
cious and tasteful pruning. Affection, sentiment, duty,
and Christian piety, all demand of us appropriate care for
the place of sepulture.
I am not aware that any particular change is called for
in the fire department at present. It appears to possess
the features desirable cheapness and efficiency to a
very praiseworthy degree. We now have three steamers.
These, when in order (as they generally are), afford a bet-
ter protection than we have ever had before. It is hoped
that the fortunate exemption from losses by fire, which we
have enjoyed during the past year, will lull neither citizens
nor firemen into careless security. Without vigilance, we
are liable at any moment to disastrous conflagrations.
The times in which we live teach us the lesson that
every community, situated as we are, will be much more
likely to remain quiet, orderly, and peaceable, if within
its own borders, and composed of its own citizens, it
should have a disciplined volunteer force that can, at very
short notice, be made available in case of disturbance of
the public peace. The general good order of our city I
am pleased to note : and it is not anything in the past
that has occurred in our midst, that occasions this allu-
sion, but a conviction, which I think you, gentlemen, and
our citizens share with me, that in the event of any popu-
lar commotion, any attempt by designing men to set at
defiance the authority of our city or state, we should
feel, all of us, more secure if provided with this force. I
refer to the subject in order to suggest that to those
volunteer military organizations which now exist, or which
may hereafter be formed in our city, you extend such
support and encouragement, moral and otherwise, as their
importance demands.
MAYOR'S FOURTH INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 135
"We now contribute to the support of two military com-
panies, the Amoskeag Veterans and the Xational Guard.
The first-named, composed of some of our best citizens,
is an organization too well known to need comment here.
The second is formed of young men, many of whom have
seen service and received honorable wounds in the national
cause. Although recently organized, it has attained to a
state of discipline highly creditable to the corps. These
companies serve to keep alive the military spirit of our
citizens, and ought to be particularly encouraged and
fostered.
I learn that the amount now paid by the city each
month, as aid to families of volunteers, is about five
thousand dollars. There is reason to believe that many
have been, and still are, receiving this money, who are
not properly entitled to it. The committee of the coun-
cil, who have had this matter in charge, have labored
under many embarrassing difficulties, as must their suc-
cessors. A searching investigation should often be made,
to ascertain those promoted, discharged, deceased, and
deserted, whose families are receiving this aid. Tt will
require constant vigilance to gain this needed information,
and most careful discrimination in receiving new appli-
cations.
In ordinary times and under ordinary circumstances,
I should lay myself liable to the charge of ambitions mo-
tives did I allude to the affairs of our nation ; but such
are the times and such the crisis that not to allude to our
country would be unpardonable. In whatever manner
we may be called, during the present year, to aid our
country, let us all vie with each other in cheerfully doing
our duty, ever mindful of the blessings that under God
rested upon our fathers, have tlowed to us all our lives
long, and will descend to posterity if we shall but prove
true. I congratulate you, gentlemen, that the present
136 LIFE OF FKEDERICK SMYTH.
signs are full of hope and encouragement. Each day
confirms us in the opinion that the nation is to live, that
human bondage in this land is to cease, and that justice
and liberty shall here abide.
The faithful performance of duty as a member of the
city council is no pastime. Each, in his appropriate
sphere of action, should strive to become acquainted with
the duties of his position, and, having learned them,
should be resolute in their performance. Ours is a gov-
ernment for all, and all alike are entitled to its benefits.
Let it be our aim to be prudent in legislation, cautious in
measures adopted for an efficient administration of the
law, but firm in maintaining its supremacy.
As I become more fully acquainted with the circum-
stances and condition of the city, these and other subjects
may be more thoroughly treated in some future commu-
nication.
Having thus endeavored, in as comprehensive a man-
ner as possible, to bring to your notice matters which will
demand early attention, I am aware that I cannot, with-
out charge of indifference or ingratitude, pass in silence
the extraordinary unanimity of the vote which has laid
on me the responsibilities of this office. Xeither have I
forgotten the kindness and forbearance of the citizens
during the three successive years, when formerly honored
with their suffrages. I shall endeavor to express my
thanks by such an administration of affairs as shall prove
their confidence not misplaced. As we have entered upon
our duties with an invocation of the blessing of Divine
Providence, let us hope to continue and close them with
His approbation.
CHAPTER XIII.
NOMINATED FOR GOVERNOR.
have seen what was the opinion and the feeling
concerning Mayor Smyth at home, where he was best
known. But this feeling had also obtained to a consider-
able extent throughout the State, and his friends had for
some time determined to present his name as a candidate
for governor.
His chief competitor in the convention of Jan. 4, 1865,
was the Hon. Onslow Stearns; and the first ballot, which
was declared informal, was for Walter Harriman 8, Milan
W. Harris 5, Onslow Stearns 221, Frederick Smyth 455.
This result was very gratifying to the personal friends
of the nominee, and especially to his fellow-townsmen.
They called on him in the evening, accompanied by the
Cornet Band, and as the music called him out, the mayor
(Hon. I). J. Daniels) said : -
" Mr. Smyth : Your friends and fellow-citizens have
called this evening to congratulate you on the distin-
guished honor conferred upon you, and through you on
our city, in your selection by the people of Xew Hamp-
shire, in convention assembled, as their candidate for the
highest office in their gift. This honor is the more valu-
able, coming, as it does, from the largest and most intelli-
gent convention ever assembled in our State for a like
purpose, and with a unanimity quite unusual in such
cases. We believe this a nomination eminently fit to be
made, and we have the strongest assurance that it will be
ratified by the people on the second Tuesday of March
next, by your triumphant election."
138 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
Mr. Smyth replied, that having received no intimation
that he should be expected to reply to any speech, he was
accordingly unprepared, hut said in substance: " I thank
you, Mr. Mayor, for this friendly expression of regard,
and I assure you that, although this day's action has given
me pleasure, yet I value far above it the sincere expression
of the good will of those among whom I have lived for
twenty-five years. To you, my friends and neighbors, in
the kind manner you have spoken at home and abroad of
me, I owe very much of the impression which seems to
have prevailed to some extent in the State ; and much as
I may have reason to be gratified with the nomination of
to-day, that gratification would have lost all its pleasure
had it been purchased at the price of your friendly regard,
or been unaccompanied by your warm support. It would
be ungrateful to deny, and I will not attempt to conceal,
the pleasure which the unanimous and hearty efforts of
the Manchester delegation, without a single exception, in
my favor, has afforded me ; and in closing (for I had sup-
posed this to be a social rather than a speech-making
occasion), Mr. Mayor and citizens, I sincerely hope that
nothing in my conduct hereafter may ever make me
unworthy of your support ; and even should I fail of an
election, this attitude of yours in the matter will remain
to my latest hour a source of genuine and unalloyed
satisfaction."
After an hour or two spent in a pleasant way, the guests
retired, mutually gratified with the occasion. Afterwards
occasional gentlemen and their wives dropped in, and it
was quite late before the neighborly chat of the evening
was finished.
Soon after Mr. Smyth's nomination, the twenty-fifth
anniversary of the Hanover-street Congregational church
was observed in Smyth's Hall. Among many other
tokens presented to the pastor, Rev. Dr. Cyrus "W. AVal-
NOMINATED FOR GOVERNOR. 139
lace, on that occasion, was a gold-headed cane, to the pur-
chase of which friends outside of the society contributed,
and Mayor Smyth made the presentation.
He said: "Rev. Mr. Wallace, in behalf of some of our
citizens outside of your society, but who have neverthe-
less not been . unmindful of your course during these
twenty-five years, I am desired to present you this staff,
not so much for its intrinsic worth, as a token that we
recognize the fact that it is to the Christian civilization of
this age we owe individual prosperity and national great-
ness. We have selected this staff; and although it is ap-
propriate for the support of infirmity or of age, far distant
be the time when you may be obliged to use it. And
when that inevitable time shall come, not far distant for
any of us, may it be but a foreshadow of the realization
of that Scripture so familiar to you : ' Thou God hast
been with me ; thy rod and thy staff they comfort me.' '
The Mirror of January 14 contained a column sketch
of the life of the Republican candidate, bringing out the
principal points in his business career, and also setting
forth his services in the mayoralty, alluding to his Euro-
pean trip, and experience at the International Exhibition
at London in 1862. One of the strong points made in
his favor was his uniform habit of temperance.
The event justified the wisdom of the nomination, and
also fulfilled the kindly auguries of his neighbors, as
expressed in the words of Mayor Daniels. After a very
active canvass, Mr. Smyth was elected by a majority of
over six thousand, the largest majority given to any gov-
ernor for twenty-four years.
In Manchester, of course, there was a very enthusiastic
meeting to hear the election returns as they came in.
After music and much gratulatory talk, for all felt the
victory in the air, Hon. Daniel Clark appeared, and read
some dispatches. He announced that Frederick Smyth
140 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
had been elected governor, and moved that a committee
be appointed to wait on him and conduct him into the
hall. Mr. G. C. Gilmore and S. D. Lord were appointed.
Mr. Smyth then appeared, and was received with the
most enthusiastic applause. As he stepped upon the
platform, the band struck up " Hail to the Chief." Mr.
Clark facetiously introduced him to the audience as a
stranger entirely unknown to them, who had been elected
governor of Xew Hampshire. Mr. Smyth spoke substan-
tially as follows :
" Fellow-citizens : I hardly know what to say on this
occasion. I was never before in such an extraordinary
position. I have just returned from the telegraph office,
where I have been engaged with my friend, Captain Har-
rington, in listening to the election returns. Fellow-citi-
zens, this is not the first time you have honored me.
Once, twice, thrice, yea, four times you have elevated
me to the highest office in this city, and now through
your kindness and confidence I am elected to a still more
elevated and responsible position. I say it is to your
partiality and efforts that I am indebted for this great
honor.
" I sometimes think you overestimate my abilities, but
I have lived among you for twenty-five years, and it is
not wholly my fault if you regard me with too much
favor.
" At the convention which nominated me, a distin-
guished and honorable gentleman received the cordial
support of many of the delegates from various parts of
the State. If he had been selected as the candidate, you
and I would have given him our hearty indorsement.
The canvass which now closes has been peculiarly free
from bitterness and personal abuse. I expected that all
the foolish things I ever did would have been rehearsed,
and I supposed that many things would have been charged
NOMINATED FOR GOVERNOR. 141
upon me of which I was never guilty. For this forbear-
ance and fairness on the part of my friends of the oppo-
sition, I wish to extend to them my thanks. As to the
Democratic candidate, Mr. Harrington, I wish to say that
our private relations have always been the most pleasant,
and I esteem him a high-minded and honorable man,
though I have not the least sympathy with his political
sentiments.
" My friends, while I am grateful for the distinguished
honor which the people of this State have to-day con-
ferred upon me, I rejoice at the continued success of the
great principles of the Union Republican party. The
result of our election to-day will carry joy to our brave
soldiers in the field, and encourage the hearts of the pa-
triots of this country who are laboring to uphold the
Government. I^ow, my friends, you have stood by me
thus far ; do not desert me now. I shall be liable to com-
mit errors in discharging the duties of the high position
intrusted to me. In all emergencies I shall look to you
for sympathy and encouragement. But I promise you
that whatever abilities I may possess shall be devoted to
the interests and welfare of our State."
Other stirring speeches were made by Hon. Samuel
Upton and Hon. ])avid Cross.
The governor-elect, as he reviewed the situation, found
that he was entering upon no easy task. The State was
beginning to feel severely the stress of the time. Gradu-
allv a great debt had accumulated, regiment after regi-
ment had been promptly equipped and sent into the field,
the banks had advanced money quite to the extent of
their courage, and nearly to that of their ability. In the
open market we met the gold bonds of the Government,
free from taxes ; the same trouble pulsed through all the
arteries of the body politic ; and the people of a State
always careful and conservative in all its expenditures,
142 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
beheld with something like dismay this mountain of ob-
ligations swollen into millions. It was almost impossible
to get money for current expenses. A previous legisla-
ture had authorized the issue of three and a half millions
of six per cent State bonds, payable in currency; only
$424,000 had been taken.
CHAPTER XIV.
INAUGURATION AS GOVERNOR OF NEW HAMPSHIRE.
GOVERNOR SMYTH was inaugurated on the 8th of June,
1865, with an unusual attendance of citizen-soldiers, and
of citizens in different walks of civil life, who congregated
to show their appreciation of the unblemished public and
private character of their new chief magistrate. An im-
portant feature in the procession was the Eleventh New
Hampshire Volunteers, Colonel Farr, which had seen the
Rebellion snuffed out, and had come " marching home "
to participate in the inaugural honors showered upon the
soldier's friend.
The message of the new governor had been anxiously
looked for by the people of JSTew Hampshire, with hopes
that it would offer some panacea for the financial ills of
the State. Nor were they doomed to disappointment.
Language was not used to conceal thought, but the new
chief magistrate stated the financial condition of the State,
and showed how these obligations could be met. The
message was as follows :
GENTLEMEN OF THE SENATE AND OF THE HOUSE OF REPRE-
SENTATIVES :
As we assemble for the discharge of the public duties
imposed upon us, we should be false to our obligations as
members of a Christian community did we fail to recog-
nize the goodness of that Providence which has blessed
country and State during the past year. How crowded,
how varied, how wonderful has been its historic record !
Triumph treading on the heels of triumph, in quick sue-
144 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
cession, until the rebel capital falls and rebellious armies
surrender ; the cup of joy, embittered by the brutal as-
sassination of our great and good President ; the capture
of the arch traitor and conspirator, now waiting his trial
at the hands of justice ; all these are events to which we
are yet too near to rightly estimate their magnitude and
influence. We cannot fail, however, to see that the same
beneficent Power which gave us Abraham Lincoln, has
raised up out of the crucible of fiery trial a successor
fitted for the period and its requirements.
Thus confident and thus grateful, we shall come to the
performance of our duties with a courage justified by the
past, and a zeal not unworthy of the objects we have in
view for the future. The soldier has done his work, the
statesman has now his to do. The fighting has ceased
and the time for paying has come. Let us apply our-
selves at once earnestly to the work before us. In the
effort of the loyal States to sustain the power of the Xa-
tional Government, Xew Hampshire has been obliged to
pledge the public honor and use the credit of the State to
a very large extent.
FINANCE.
I am unable to state from personal knowledge the
financial condition of the State, but from information
received from the auditor and treasurer it appears to be
nearly as follows :
Funded debts and trust funds . . 81.623,87344
Xotes due the current vear 2,355,000 00
Total debt, represented by loans . 3,978,873 44
Interest due the current vear . 258,000 00
Total debt, as represented by loans,
with current interest . . . 4,236,873 44
Outstanding obligations < stimated by
the auditor . . 706,000 00
FINANCE. 145
lie estimates the demands upon the
treasury the current year, includ-
ing floating debt, interest, out-
standing claims, and expendi-
tures S3,o75,OoO 00
Deduct estimated receipts . . 932,100 00
Leaves to be provided for the current
year $2,642,950 00
This amount may be increased to the extent of what-
ever claims may be allowed by the legislature, not in-
cluded in the estimate of the auditor. It may also be
diminished by what evermay be received from the Gen-
eral Government upon the balance of our claim against
it, with reference to which the auditor says : " How the
Government will look upon this balance, and whether it
will be approved and allowed, remain as yet open ques-
tions, and I have therefore deemed it unadvisable to take
this claim into consideration in making my estimates."
I would respectfully call your particular attention to
the details of the able report of the auditor, and the
important suggestions therein.
Ho\v to provide for this large current indebtedness is a
question requiring your immediate and careful considera-
tion. I learn that the executive department has only been
able to dispose of $424,000 of the 3,500,000 of the six
per cent bonds authorized by the last legislature; hence
the larger part of our State debt remains unfunded. The
difficulty of negotiating these securities is not likely to be
diminished at present; I therefore recommend that au-
thority be given to issue six per cent semiannual interest
bonds, principal and interest payable in gold, in denomi-
nations of fifty, one hundred, five hundred, and one thou-
sand dollars, on from five to twenty years' time, as may
be thought expedient. While these bonds will command
a more ready sale than those payable in currency, there
10
146 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
is every reason to expect that the currency of the coun-
try will be equivalent to gold long before they mature.
Should the present price of gold continue for some time
to come, the premium will not increase the rate of inter-
est in currency above what the State is now paying on
most of its floating debt ; but the probabilities are all in
favor of a lower and constantly receding rate.
I would also recommend that authority be granted to
issue 7 -j^j- per cent semiannual interest currency bonds,
on from three to live years, of similar denominations.
The advantages to be derived from a variety of securities,
at the discretionary disposal of the proper authorities,
will suggest themselves to you.
In entering the money market, it must be borne in mind
that we do so not alone in competition with the General
Government, but with other States, cities, and towns ; and
that however good our credit, the exigencies of others,
and the large amount of similar securities offered, will
affect the marketable value of our obligations. It is
impossible to fix for them an arbitrary value under the
present peculiar circumstances of the money market. In
order to retain the credit to which our State is justly en-
titled, and which should be fully equal to that of any of
the Xew England States, I respectfully submit that our
aim should be to so legislate as to prevent any increase of
our indebtedness beyond present obligations, which the
happy termination of the war renders feasible; and to
raise by taxation an amount sufficient to defray current
expenses, including interest on the indebtedness. "We
must now observe the most rigid economy in expenditure,
and bring the expenses to a peace basis as soon as possi-
ble. Our people are naturally economical, not prone to
indebtedness, and instinctively hold sacred all pecuniary
obligations. Aside from our war debt we owe no other.
It lias never been the habit of our State to lend its credit,
WAR DEBTS BY THE GOVERNMENT. 147
and we have no obligations of this character, either pres-
ent or remote, to provide for. The recent financial
transactions of the State having been of such unusual
magnitude, the most scrupulous care and greatest dis-
crimination will be required in properly adjusting the
various and large outstanding claims. You will see the
propriety on this occasion of my repeating the request of
my predecessor at the commencement of his administra-
tion : " I wish to urge upon the legislature the importance
of knowing exactly the condition of our State in a finan-
cial point of view, at the commencement of the political
year, that the administration which comes into power to-
day may be held responsible for its own acts, and nothing
more. "
ASSUMPTION OF WAR DEBTS BY THE GOVERNMENT.
The great debt growing out of the war presses with
severity on all the loyal States, cities, and towns. I look
for the assumption of this indebtedness by the General
Government at the earliest practicable day. These obli-
gations now rest on a portion of the Union only, while
the Confederate debt is blotted out by the triumph of our
arms. Strict justice would require that the rebellious
States, the cause of all this expenditure, should be made
to pay it. But as this is impracticable, we should insist
upon their paying at least a portion of it. There is no
apparent reason why I^ew Hampshire should come out of
this war impoverished by her loyalty, and Georgia escape
payment for her treason. The war debt of the loyal States
was incurred, equally with that of the nation, for national
purposes ; and they have cheerfully assumed and volun-
tarily borne its burdens, under many disadvantages. The
General Government, to preserve its own life, has been
obliged to take virtual possession of the money market,
by exempting its securities from State and municipal taxa-
148 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
tion, and by increasing the ordinary rates of interest. This
has borne heavily upon the visible property, and depressed
the securities of the States. Whatever means shall be
devised by which a share at least of this burden shall be
discharged by those parties to the Rebellion to whom it
rightfully belongs, will meet with the cordial approval of
the people. When Congress manifests a disposition to
move in this matter, the claims of our cities and towns
should be adjusted and considered. Any State action
prior to this can afford no relief to them. Should the
State now assume the town debts, it must levy a tax
directly upon the towns to pay them, as its present debt
is already quite as large as we shall be able to fund or
manage, so as to preserve its credit. It would seem,
therefore, to be the part of sound financial wisdom to wait
the action of Congress, and in the meantime to take such
legislative action as may be deemed advisable in order
to bring the subject properly before that body.
INDUSTRIAL RESOURCES.
Our unusual manufacturing facilities have long been
known to some of the wisest capitalists of the country.
The occupation of the great water powers of Manchester,
Nashua, and Dover is but an example of what may be
done at some future day in many places within our bor-
ders. I consider it the part of wisdom to encourage the
occupation and improvement of these natural resources
of !New Hampshire by a liberal legislative policy, and by
offering every fair inducement for the investment of cap-
ital in manufacturing industry. This will add to the
wealth of the State, to the value of all our present insti-
tutions and enterprises ; and it will stimulate that occu-
pation in which New Hampshire, small and rugged as she
is, holds a fair rank among the other States.
In some branches of agriculture we have already reached
INDUSTRIAL RESOURCES. 149
a comparative degree of excellence. In wheat growing
our average yield per acre is 12^ bushels, and is larger
than that of Maine, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Delaware,
Kentucky, Ohio, Michigan, "Wisconsin, Iowa, or "West
Virginia. In corn crops our average yield per acre is 29^
bushels, and is larger than that of Maine, New York,
Maryland, Delaware, Kentucky, Michigan, Indiana, Mis-
souri, Kansas, or Nebraska. In potatoes our average yield
is 164 bushels per acre, and is larger than that of any
other State this side the Rocky Mountains. In rye crops
our average yield per acre is 14|- bushels, and is larger
than that of Maine, New Jersey, Kentucky, Ohio, Mich-
igan, Indiana, Wisconsin, Minnesota, or West Virginia.
In the hay crop the average yield is one ton to the acre,
being larger than that of Maine and equal to each of the
other New England States. Of beef and mutton we pro-
duce all that is required for home consumption, with a
surplus for other markets.
These facts, derived from recent statistical returns of the
national agricultural department, indicate the relative
progress we have already made in this branch of industry.
The importance of local markets must be apparent, and
they can best be increased by encouraging the growth of
manufacturing towns and villages.
The heavy growth of timber in the northern part of the
State must be a source of revenue to the owners for many
3'ears to come. Our minerals are also attracting more and
more attention. The variety of ores existing in our soil
is not surpassed by that of any Atlantic State, embracing
iron, zinc, copper, lead, silver, and tin. It is quite prob-
able that the most if not all these ores may at no distant
day be mined at a large profit. The slate (marries of Lit-
tleton, apparently inexhaustible, and the rich lime beds
in that vicinitv, suitable for mechanical and agricultural
v ' O
purposes, only call for enterprise to develop sources of
150 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
wealth and employment. I cannot refrain from expressing
the hope that the latent wealth of the State will receive
all that attention which a due regard to our prosperity
demands.
RIVER FISHERIES.
A copy of the resolves of the legislature of Massachu-
setts, concerning the obstructions to the passage of fish in
the Connecticut and Merrimack rivers, will be submitted
to you. These resolves provide for the appointment of
commissioners, a part of whose duty shall be to ascertain
whether the States of New Hampshire and Vermont " pos-
sess the right to maintain, or cause to be maintained, suita-
ble tishways for the passage of fish up said rivers to their
sources, or to any and what extent." The value of the
fisheries on our rivers I do not purpose here to discuss.
But I regret to say that the action of the Massachusetts
legislature falls far short of what we had a right to expect.
The importance of fishways, to give a free passage to fish
through artificial dams to the waters of this State, and the
obligation of Massachusetts to construct them, have been
acknowledged and recognized by that State in her acts
incorporating the Essex and Lowell manufacturing com-
panies. The dams of these companies have been so con-
structed, however, as to render the passage of fish an
impossibility. The rights and interests of New Hamp-
shire in this once important resource were ably and fully
represented before a committee of the Massachusetts leg-
islature the present year by Judge Bellows. This com-
mittee in their report say: " The resolutions of the State
of New Hampshire invoked the action of Massachusetts
upon the ground of State comity and the obligations of
international law. The legislation of Massachusetts creat-
ing the water power at Lowell and Lawrence made care-
ful provision for the maintenance and protection of the
fishing rights of the citizens of New Hampshire in Mer-
RIVER FISHERIES. 151
rimack river. But while the State has been mindful of
its duty in this regard, it must be conceded that an injury,
to some extent, has been inflicted upon the rights of New
Hampshire by the mistaken determination of the Essex
commissioners in prescribing for the fish way at Lawrence ;
and the obligations of international law,* as well as a
proper regard for the rights of others, call upon this State
to rectify the error committed by its agents, if it can be
done without sacrificing the greater interests which are
depending upon the use of the water for manufacturing
purposes." In regard to injurious substances thrown into
the water, they say that they " do not regard it as having
much weight against the proposed measure." They also
say that " the restoration of fish to the Merrimack and
Connecticut rivers, notwithstanding the existing obstruc-
tions, is practicable at a comparatively small expense."
Notwithstanding the candid admissions of this committee
of the rights of Xew Hampshire, and the practicability
of fishways, it will be seen by the aforesaid resolves that
commissioners have been appointed, not to cause the
proper fishways to be constructed, but to ascertain certain
rights and facts before conceded, and meanwhile actually
" suspending the obligations of the Essex Company to
rebuild a fish way in their dam until 1866."
I would recommend that such action be taken in the
premises as may seem expedient and just, by appointment
of commissioners or otherwise. It is well known that in
many parts of Europe, where fish had been prevented
from ascending rivers, they have been entirely restored
by constructing proper ladders, and are now as numerous
as they were hundreds of years ago, before any obstruc-
tions existed. Professor Agassiz and other scientific men
express the decided opinion that the fish can be entirely
restored to our waters at a very small expense. I trust
that those interested will avail themselves of the knowl-
152 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
edge which science and experience afford, and give our
people the full benefit of the restored fisheries.
I would also invite your attention to the expediency of
making some provision for the preservation of the fish in
our lakes and other waters during the spawning season ;
and also to the subject of stocking those waters with other
varieties.
AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE.
The condition of agriculture in our State demands care-
ful consideration. According to the census of 1860, there
were 35,392 farmers and 10,152 farm laborers, in an ag-
gregate population of 326,023, which is by far the largest
number of persons engaged in any one occupation among
us. Including families in this estimate, it will readily be
seen that every step taken to improve this branch of in-
dustry affects nearly our entire population.
The agriculture of Xew Hampshire has not reached any-
thing like perfection. Discussion is still going on as to
the best breeds of cattle, sheep, and horses. The general
principles of feeding with econom}- and profit are not yet
laid down ; the crops best adapted to various soils, loca-
tions, and purposes are not fixed beyond doubt. A large
proportion of the soil of our State is yet unappropriated
to any profitable purposes, and many farms now yielding
no profit might by proper methods of cultivation be made
to return a rich reward. Immense reservoirs of fertiliz-
ing material remain hidden and undisturbed in bogs and
ravines scattered over the State, while many of our farm-
ers are purchasing at great cost, from South America, a
material no better. The saving and preparing of fertil-
izers in the most economical manner is most sadly neg-
lected. Although we have many prosperous farmers, the
secret of their success has not yet been imparted to the
general community.
Whatever system of agricultural education be adopted,
AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE. 153
it should be with special reference to the collection and
diffusion of practical agricultural information. I would
by no means ignore the benefit derived from profound in-
vestigation into the depths of all knowledge. For such
purposes we are not unprovided with excellent schools,
many of them having more than a local or State reputa-
tion, while the distinguished sons of our college, from
every State and land, prove by the tenor of their lives and
the luster of their deeds the sterling virtues of the hon-
ored mother that nurtured them. In addition to these, it
is now proposed to found an agricultural college, to meet
and supply the needs of the agricultural classes. A bill
reported in June, 1864, providing for the organization of
such a college, was referred to this session of the legisla-
ture, and a call issued, in which an invitation was extended
to " all such persons, institutions of learning, towns, and
cities, as feel an interest in the establishment of a college
for the purpose of promoting the cause of education, es-
pecially in the department of agriculture and the mechanic
arts, in our State, and are desirous of aiding therein by
donation, to make and forward their offers and proposi-
tions to B. Gerrish, Jr., clerk of the House, that the same
may be laid before the next legislature for their action
thereon."
Whether the college shall be established on an inde-
pendent foundation, or attached to some already existing
institution, it is to be hoped that its especial object will
not be lost sight of.
As a receptacle of the practical knowledge already pos-
sessed by us, it may be made very useful. We have nu-
merous agricultural societies, exerting great influence in
advancing the material interests of the State, encouraging
the best modes of farming, and constantly collecting val-
uable facts drawn from experience, the best foundation ot
all agricultural knowledge. If the trustees of the pro-
154 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
posed college should be constituted a board of agriculture,
exercising some supervision over these societies, collecting
from their records whatever may be valuable, and distri-
buting it among the people, the institution would perform
at once a most useful service. In no way is the general
agricultural mind aroused so thoroughly to action as by
oral instruction. I trust, therefore, that the delivery of
lectures throughout the State upon topics relating directly
to the business of agriculture, will be made a part ot the
duty of the teachers and students of the college. Such
lectures might be made to awaken attention to horticul-
ture and kindred pursuits, which lend such grace and
beauty alike to city and rural life. Thus the sons and
daughters of the farmer may find at home those attractions
which they are too often and unfortunately obliged to seek
abroad, and they will grow up with love, instead of dis-
taste, for the farm. The remembrance of the cottage
vines, the garden fruits and flowers, the trees that adorn
the wayside, give freshness to the mind, and form the
strongest ties that bind us to the influence of home.
An experimental farm with manual labor should un-
doubtedly form a part of the organization and discipline
of the institution. To succeed at all it must command the
confidence of the farmers ; its modes and requirements
must be adapted to their needs and circumstances ; and it
must be prepared to deal with things as they are, before
expecting great success in making them as they ought to
be. Many farmers who cannot spare their sons two or
three years, should not be deprived of the benefit of a
single term if they desire it ; while the objection to a class
of professional farmers, one or two of whom in a town
might waste all their strength in combating the prejudices
of their less fortunate neighbors, would be obviated by
the more general diffusion of agricultural knowledge.
Give a full course to those who desire, or can afford it, but
BANKS. 155
welcome at all proper times those whose term must be
brief. Guided by such general principles, I am confident
that good wishes and constant patronage would gather
around the institution. There are indications already of
the generosity of those who understand the value of a
well educated and enlightened agricultural community.
I understand that the generous and munificent proposition
of Hon. David Culver, to aid in the establishment of the
proposed institution, is still continued subject to your
action.
BANKS.
From the report of the bank commissioners it will ap-
pear that the amount of deposits in savings banks in this
State is $7,831,335.72, being an increase of $167,577.26
over the previous year. When it is remembered how lib-
erally our people have invested their surplus funds in gov-
ernment securities, this increase of deposits affords very
gratifying evidence of the prosperity, as well as the fru-
gality of our people, under the relaxing influences of an
exhaustive war. The banks of discount are fast surren-
dering their State charters, and passing into national
associations.
At the last June session of the legislature the laws appli-
cable to State banks were applied to national banking
associations. I understand that the national banks have
declined to make the required returns on the ground that
this enactment is in conflict with the national currency
act. Should this be found to be the case, I trust you will
so modify it as to conform to the law of Congress. Some
difficulty seems also to exist in relation to the taxation of
the stock of national banks, as the national act provides
that the stock shall be taxed where the bank is located,
and not elsewhere. Common justice would seem to re-
quire that this tax should be distributed among the towns
and cities where the stock is owned, and not all appro-
156 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
priated by the particular locality where the bank happens
to have its place of business. Besides, it may not be con-
sistent with our laws, as they now stand, to tax a stock-
holder for his bank stock in any place other than that of
his residence. I invite your attention to this subject, and
recommend such legislation as shall remove this difficulty,
in order that this species of property may not escape its
just share of local taxation, as Congress evidently did not
intend it should.
SCHOOLS.
The rapid conversion of our State banks into national
banking institutions will soon withdraw from the schools
the literaiy fund, which has heretofore contributed so
largelv to their support. I trust that this deficiency will
not be allowed to diminish the usefulness of that system
so justly the pride of our people. However desirable it
may be to bring our expenditures within the limits of a
wise economy, we cannot afford to retrench here. The
fullness of time can only measure what we owe to our
liberal system of education. The free school is the only
safe basis for a free, enlightened, and prosperous State.
I doubt not this subject will receive due attention at your
hands, and if any legislation shall be deemed necessary,
to maintain or increase the excellence of the common
schools, the cordial co-operation of the executive will not
be found wanting.
THE ASYLUM FOR THE INSANE
Is quietly performing a great work of beneficence, in its
extensive ministrations to the relief of an unfortunate class
of our citizens. The generous appropriations of the State
for its erection and enlargements have been productive of
vast good, and it stands to-day one of the most satisfactory
evidences of the general beneficence of the people, and a
blessing and honor to the State.
HOUSE OF REFORMATION. 157
From a recent inspection of its various departments, I
feel confident that its patients, of all classes, are skillfully
and tenderly cared for, and its financial interest wisely
administered. It is highly creditable to the able superin-
tendent, that notwithstanding the greatly enhanced prices
of provisions and labor during the last four years, he has
furnished the patients all the attention and comforts
they have enjoyed in more favored times, without any
serious increase of the price of board, or the incurring of
any indebtedness. It is gratifying to know that the per-
manent funds of the asylum, bequeathed to it from time
to time, are regarded by its judicious managers as a sacred
trust, and are carefully invested, the income only being
expended. The farm has now become to the institution
an important source of revenue, and I was pleased to notice
similar care in the production and application of fertilizing
material, observed upon the best cultivated estates of
England and the continent of Europe. The same prac-
tice upon our farms would in a few years double the crops
of the State. In 1855 a wing was erected upon the north
side of the asylum for the special accommodation of the
violent insane. The present crowded condition of the
female apartments, as well as a more perfect classification
of patients, forcibly suggests the erection, as soon as the
financial condition of the State will justify it, of another
of similar character for females.
HOUSE OF REFORMATION.
This institution is still in its infancy, yet it has not
only met the sanguine expectations of its friends, but has
silenced the clamor and the criticism of its enemies, as has
uniformly been the experience of similar institutions in
all parts of the world. The object designed to be accom-
plished by its establishment, the reformation of our unfor-
tunate and wayward youth, commends itself to a humane
158 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
and Christian people ; and so well is it doing its allotted
work, that no institution of our State is more firmly es-
tablished in popular favor, or takes a deeper hold upon
the sympathies and regards of the people.
The annual increase of the products of the farm, under
the judicious management of the superintendent, is large,
and the land is rapidly improving in productiveness and
value. I am sure you will readily grant the small appro-
priation asked for by the trustees.
STATE PRISON.
The condition of the State prison appears to be all that
could be expected. During the past year the institution
has not proved self-supporting, as in former years. This
is explained by the reduction of the numbers of inmates,
which lessens its productive capacity, and the augmented
expense of living ; while a very large portion of the con-
victs are still employed under a contract executed prior
to the advance in the prices of labor.
The general appearance of the convicts, and the condi-
tion of the institution, reflect credit on its managers.
Improvements have recently been made in the buildings
and yard, which add much to the comfort and convenience
of the prisoners, and greatly facilitate the business opera-
tions of the prison.
MILITIA.
The report of the adjutant-general will give you the
proper information regarding the military department of
the State. However much we may all rejoice at the re-
turn of peace, the lessons of the past have been too costly
not to warn us that to be prepared for war may save us
from it. It will therefore be wise to make a good use of
the military spirit which our returning soldiers may carry
to their respective towns. It is not at present desirable
to increase the State expenditures in this direction, nor
OUR SOLDIERS. 159
am I prepared to recommend any amendment to our pres-
ent military system ; but discretionary power given to the
towns to provide uniforms for volunteer military compa-
nies that are now, or may be, organized in their midst,
would have a beneficial effect. The world affords no bet-
ter material than we shall soon have for the formation of
a volunteer militia. Let us see to it that this valuable ex-
perience be not lost to the State and country by the neg-
lect to give efficiency and moral force to the militia laws.
OUR SOLDIERS.
The condition of our national affairs, so full of heroic
accomplishment and of hope, must remind us of the ob-
ligations we are under to pay all honor to those sons
of Xew Hampshire who have won for her on the battle-
field a share of the renown of the American people.
Since the war commenced, we have furnished 33,427
troops for the national cause. Of these, 11,039 have been
disabled, and 5,518 have fallen in the conflict, and have
left names for our perpetual remembrance, and their ex-
ample for our most faithful imitation.
Our State will never be unmindful of the heroic deeds
of her sons in the great struggle for national life. They
sprang to arms at the first call, and no considerable bat-
tle has been fought in which the}' have not participated.
During the earlv days of the Rebellion, they were at
o *- */ *J
times cast down by temporary defeat, but in every in-
stance only to rally with renewed vigor. Our record
shows that in nearly all the now historic engagements of
the war, and finally at the last grand charge which broke
the embattled line of rebellion, New Hampshire, through
her heroic sons, bore honorably her part. It will not be
easy for us to pay our debt of gratitude to these brave
men. We arc indebted to their fearless devotion for the
elevation of our National Government to its position of
160 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
power and moral dignity. Has our land been purified
and redeemed? It was by their blood. Are the hopes of
humanity raised to a long-wished-for point of consumma-
tion ? It is by their self-sacrifice. Is there now a glori-
ous opportunity for America to advance in all those
things which make a people great? This opportunity
has been gained by the undying determination of our
soldiers to defend the flag against every foe, and their
readiness to recognize the force of every high principle
advanced during the conflict. Let it not be said of us
who enter into the fruits of their labors, that we have
neglected to record the memory of our fallen heroes on
monuments worthy of their deeds and fame. I desire to
call your attention to the case of those soldiers perma-
nently disabled in the service of their country. The
scanty provisions of the General Government will in
many cases prove entirely inadequate for their support or
that of their families, and the assistance of the towns and
cities in which they reside will necessarily be invoked.
I recommend that in all cases where soldiers or their
families are assisted in this manner, the laws be so
amended that none of the disabilities that attach to pau-
pers shall apply to them. I wish also to earnestly recom-
mend that all persons in places of influence, all who have
honorable employment to oft'er, should discriminate, when
possible, in favor of the returned soldier.
Encourage those who are disabled, in any industry of
which they may be capable. Let the soldier see that
while we revere the name and fume of the dead, we do
not forget the best and highest welfare of the living. So
O O
shall we, and those who come after us, be worthy of the
blessings which have been poured out upon us by Him
who has guided our counsels and our armies in this great
war.
The ample accommodations of the United States Hos-
GETTYSBURG CEMETERY. 161
pital in our State being now but partially occupied, there
seems to be no necessity for any considerable expense in
providing for our sick and wounded soldiers at distant
localities ; and the preferences of the soldiers would un-
doubtedly be gratified by an early removal to the vicinity
of their friends. The happy close of the war, and the
discharge of so many of the disabled, has greatly reduced
the number to be thus cared for.
REGIMENTAL FLAGS.
A number of regiments have returned their original
battle-flags to the State, and others will soon do so. I
would suggest that these proud but sad memorials of our
recent terrible conflict be conspicuously displayed in the
halls of your deliberations, that by them we may be con-
stantly reminded, not only of the fortitude and devotion
of those who bore them upon the march and in the hour
of battle, but also of our own obligation to sacredly pre-
serve the fruits of their sacrifices.
GETTYSBURG CEMETERY.
The report of Hon. Ira Perley, commissioner from this
State upon the national soldiers' cemetery at Gettysburg,
will inform you of the progress of this patriotic enter-
prise, which commends itself to the favor and the warm-
est sympathy of all loyal people. It Avill be seen that as
yet the bodies of only forty-nine Xew Hampshire soldiers
have been recognized, and of these the names of only
twenty-seven are known. This can be but a small part
of our heroes who sleep upon that consecrated field.
You will judge when the subject comes before you
whether any further effort is feasible to rescue from obliv-
ion the names of those as yet unrecognized, whose mem-
ory is a part of our common glory, and will be cherished
as long as our race endures.
162 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
CONSTITUTIONAL AMENDMENT.
Among the most important questions to be submitted
to your action is that of the constitutional amendment,
forever forbidding: slavery. Controlling or influencing:
O v C3 O
much of the general legislation of the country, for the
greater part of our national existence, its arrogance
finally plunged us into the war which proved its own ruin.
It remains for us to declare by this amendment that it
shall not be re-established when State governments here-
tofore in rebellion again resume their action. To do this
in a peaceful and legitimate manner requires the votes of
three fourths of the States, Twenty-two States have al-
ready so declared. May we not hope that Xew Hamp-
shire will be so far true to the needs of the country, the
voice of the times, and the sentiment of the civilized
world, as to give the unanimous vote of her legislature in
favor of this measure ?
NATIONAL AFFAIRS.
Called to a position allied to the Federal authority by
u common interest, I should hardly discharge my full
duty, did I fail on this occasion to allude to the condition
of the Union, now again, thanks be to Almighty God, one
and indivisible. From the outbreak of the Rebellion,
Kew Hampshire has stood firmly by the flag; and know-
ing what we do to-day of the scope and aim of the great
conspiracy, and of the infamous means which accom-
plished its inception and urged on its progress, can any
one regret that the State was so far true to her honored
name and her noble memories as to offer without stint of
her men and means, for the re-establishment of the na-
tional authority? As the great contest progressed, we
were naturally drawn closer and closer to the support of
the central power; and as we suffered with every shock
tluit threatened its existence, so we rejoiced and took
NATIONAL AFFAIRS. 163
courage as victory after victory perched upon our banners,
and felt renewed strength as the rightful authority of the
Government was resumed over its usurped territory. The
country, and the whole country, will henceforth be worth
to New Hampshire a sum measured only by the blood she
has ottered in the common cause, and we shall all prize
with greater value, and watch with more untiring care,
rights purchased at so great a sacrifice.
I congratulate you, gentlemen, on the success which
has attended the efforts to restore the Union, and to estab-
lish it on foundations of truth and justice. Our armies
have not only carried with them a restored authority, but
they have opened the way for a higher and nobler civiliza-
tion, without which there can be no free government, and
with which rebellion is impossible. For myself I shall
feel that the great purpose of this war is not attained, the
great lesson of this punishment not learned, until free
schools, free churches, and a free ballot are established
wherever the Federal authority extends. This we owe
to the good order and permanent security of all the States ;
this alone will be a commensurate reward for the unpar-
alleled heroism of the brave soldiers who have borne us
through the contest. On such a consummation only can
we expect the continued favor of heaven, and the blessing
of the God of our fathers. Let the awful scenes through
which we have passed teach us our duty. The blood of
the sons of Xew Hampshire, mingled with that of others
from every loyal State, calls to us from a hundred battle-
fields to stand true to the great cause, through all the ex-
ultations of victory and amidst the signs of accomplished
peace.
The spirit of the last great martyr for universal eman-
cipation, lifted above the cares and weaknesses of this life,
bids us be true to the cause. In our sorrow even let us
take courage, and make the brutal assassination of our
164 LIFE OF FKEDERICK SMYTH.
noble President that most wicked fruit of a barbarous
system confirm us in the resolution to make universal
freedom a synonym for universal suffrage, under such safe-
guards as wise legislation may provide. All must agree
that the States which have been in rebellion should not
hereafter lie controlled by rebels and traitors ; and as we
do not propose to admit again into the Union the cause of
all this evil, so let us extend to the loyal citizen, of what-
ever color, those rights justly earned by patience, devotion,
and firm, unwavering faithfulness to the common cause.
The weakness, dependence, and ignorance of the race
whose broken shackles have paved our way to victory, are
so many potent reasons why its condition should no longer
be left uncertain or insecure. This question of negro
suffrage is one of 'those defenses behind which the spirit
of slavery will yet intrench itself, and by which it will
seek to regain some fragment of the power it has justly
lost. If we would have an enduring and prosperous peace,
we shall level every obstruction, concede nothing to the
prejudices of slavery, and give the freedman the right to
assert that manhood peacefully at the ballot-box, which he
has so nobly proved on the battle-field. Let no fears or
apparent difficulties in the way deter us. There is no
danger so great to a nation as the existence of a flagrant
injustice in its midst, sanctioned and protected by its au-
thority. Let us, therefore, be just, and hope for contin-
ued favor from the Source of all prosperity.
CHAPTER XV.
PEACE AND PROSPERITY.
AFTER the inauguration ceremonies, the governor and
other distinguished citizens dined with the governor's
Horse Guards, and in response to the second regular toast,
Governor Smyth briefly responded, saying that he felt that
he had done his share of talking for the day, hut he could
not help returning his sincere thanks to the soldiers for
the splendid manner in which they had performed escort
duty. The honor of the State could not be better pre-
served than by the volunteer militia of the State. While
he had not the power of his predecessor, he certainly had
the inclination to foster it. This occasion was also one of
peculiar gratification, as he saw Concord and Manchester
united. There had been reports of jealousy between the
cities, but after the gratifying reception given to Manches-
ter to-day, he did not believe that it existed in Concord,
and felt that it ought not to exist in Manchester. In con-
clusion lie would say that there was a verse in Scripture
which declared that " Let not him that putteth his armor
on, boast, but rather him that layeth it aside/' In accord-
ance with that sentiment, he hoped to hear from Governor
Gilmore, who briefly responded.
This first year was a very busy one. and among the most
onerous of its tasks was that of establishing the credit of
the State. Within three months from the delivery of the
message over one million of dollars were raised on favora-
ble terms, a large amount of which was furnished by
Manchester banks on personal solicitation.
From that time forward the financial affairs of the State
received the most scrupulous attention. In the haste and
166 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
waste of war, unavoidable confusion at times arose in ac-
counts between the several States and the General Gov-
ernment, and it was not only then impossible to pay our
debts, but equally so to get our dues. Governor Smyth's
large acquaintance with men gave him influence at head-
quarters, and he suffered no opportunity to pass to advo-
cate the claim of his State.
In the first months of the administration the !N"ew Hamp-
shire regiments were returning from the war. They were
to be cared for, paid, and properly discharged by the
authorities of the State they had honored.
Governor Smyth was especially desirous that every
honor should be paid to these brave men, and he took
care to address them in terms of warmest appreciation.
The several regiments arrived home and were discharged
at Concord in order of time as follows :
June 7, Eleventh Regiment.
June 14, Xinth Regiment.
June 19, Xew Hampshire Battery.
June 25, Tenth Regiment.
July 1, Thirteenth Regiment.
July 3, Twelfth Regiment.
July 8, Fifth Regiment.
July 21, Cavalry.
July 22, Sixth Regiment.
July 23, Seventh Regiment.
July 2s, Third Regiment.
Aug. 8, Eighteenth Regiment.
Aug. 13, Fourteenth and Fifteenth Regiments.
Aug. 2n, Sixteenth Regiment.
Aug. 27, Fourth Regiment.
Nov. fi, Eighth Regiment.
And finally, on December 25, Christmas day, General
Marston's regiment, the Second, fittingly closed up the
long roll, under command of Colonel Joab Patterson.
Probably the Fourth of July immediately following
the close of the war was observed with a better idea of
A PROCLAMATION. 167
its significance than had characterized any similar day
since its institution, and Governor Smyth issued the pro-
clamation which follows.
STATE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE.
BY HIS EXCELLENCY THE GOVERNOR, A PROCLAMATION.
Peace smiles once more upon our whole land. The
devastation of war has ceased, and the fearful waste of life
is ended. The armies of the Great Rebellion, which for
four long years have desolated our country and defied its
authorities, are broken and dispersed, and organized
armed resistance to the Government is everywhere sup-
pressed. Traitors who have so haughtily defied our flag
are now bowed in submission before it, and suing for par-
don and mercy at the hands of the Government they
sought to destroy.
Our war-worn veterans who left their peaceful pursuits
for the hardships, the privations, the sufferings, and the
perils of the camp, the march, and the battle-field, are re-
tracing their footsteps to the waiting homes they have so
bravely and successfully defended. To them we owe no
ordinary, no common welcome. The masterly achieve-
ments of our armies, which so recently secured to us
these wonderful results, owing to the tragic event by
which they were succeeded have not as yet received that
formal and public recognition which their momentous
importance should secure, and which they will ever
hereafter receive.
I, therefore, with the advice of the honorable council,
recommend to all the people of the State to embrace the
approaching anniversary of our national independence as
a fitting day and opportunity to extend a cordial public
welcome to our returning soldiers, and also, in addition
to the customary observance of that day, to appropriately
commemorate the heroic and brilliant achievements of
our armies and navy in preserving the life and enhancing
168 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
the glory of the Republic which our fathers on that day,
eighty-nine years ago, gave to the great cause of liberty
and justice, upon the shores of the New World.
Never before had we such occasion for thanksgiving
and praise to that merciful Providence which has held us
in its guardian care and keeping ; and I trust that through-
out the State, in every town and city, the people will
unite in such demonstrations as will suitably express the
gratitude and joy w r hich all feel at this great deliverance
from war and national peril.
Given at the council chamber, this twenty-first day of
June, in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred
and sixty-five, and of the Independence of the United
States the eighty-ninth.
FREDERICK SMYTH.
By His Excellency the Governor.
WALTEK HAKUIMAX, Secretary of State.
Under a resolve of the legislature passed June 30,
the governor and council appointed Samuel D. Bell, Asa
Fowler, and George Y. Sawyer commissioners to codify
and amend the statute laws of the State.
The correspondence alone arising out of the anoma-
lous condition of affairs in the country was enough to tax
the governor's time to a very great extent. Few of these
letters, of course, have anything more than the temporary
interest which passed away with the exigency which called
them forth.
June 1-j, 1865, Governor Smyth wrote to the secre-
tary of war, lion. E. M. Stanton, as follows:
''My DEAR SIR: I am in daily receipt of communica-
tions from sick and wounded Xew Hampshire soldiers in
different parts of our country, earnestly imploring aid in
obtaining their transfer to the Government Hospital at
Manchester in this State. The friends of such soldiers
are also anxious that they should be brought within
LETTERS BY THE GOVERNOR. 169
reach of their friendly ministrations at the earliest practi-
cal day. I am informed by the surgeon in charge of the
hospital at Manchester that it has an improved capacity
of from three to four hundred beds. I wish to inquire if
any objection exists on the part of the Government to the
immediate transfer of our sick and wounded soldiers to
this hospital ; and if no such objection exists, I desire
most respectfully to urge that such a transfer be made. "
June 26, the governor's private secretary, C. II. Bart-
lett, Esq., writes to "Win. "Wyman, Portsmouth Grove,
R. I. : -
" DEAR SIR : Your letter to Governor Smyth, dated
June 23, is received, and I am directed to say in reply
that he sincerely sympathizes with you, and from the
many letters he is receiving from your hospital, of a
character similar to yours, he cannot doubt that your
complaints are well founded.
" He will renew his application to the surgeon-general
for your transfer, and that of all other Xew Hampshire
soldiers there, to the hospital at Manchester. The appli-
cation will be made immediately, and I trust your wishes
will soon be gratified. ''
And on the 27th of the same month, he wrote to Sur-
geon-General Barnes, savins;: "Constant and iust com-
O < O v
plaints are daily received by me of the treatment of Xew
Hampshire soldiers in the Lovell Hospital at Portsmouth
Grove, R. I. Cannot they be transferred to Manchester,
iS". II. ? I earnestly request that this be done immedi-
ately."
These letters seemed for a time to have their effect,
and the soldiers were transferred as desired. Soon, how-
ever, there appeared to be a change in the councils of the
War Department, and the hospital at Manchester was or-
dered to be closed.
Whereupon Governor Smyth wrote the following:
170 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
MANCHESTER, N. H., July 20, 1865.
SURGEON-GENERAL BARNES, WASHINGTON, D. C. :
Dear Sir : I sent you yesterday a telegram request-
ing a suspension of the order to Surgeon Watson to close
the Webster Hospital at Manchester, this State, until I
could communicate to you the reasons why the order
should be countermanded, which I now hasten to do.
The reasons are,
1st. There are now scattered throughout the country
many Xew Hampshire soldiers in hospitals, who were
long since ordered to be transferred to the Webster Hos-
pital in Manchester, but the surgeons of the hospitals in
which they are confined neglect or refuse to execute the
order. A special order some two weeks ago was obtained
with reference to our soldiers in the hospital at Ports-
mouth Grove, R. I., ordering their transfer, and, although
I have repeatedly telegraphed the Department upon the
subject, the order remains unexecuted.
2d. The Webster Hospital has now sixty-eight sick
and wounded soldiers in its charge, some ten or twelve of
whom cannot be moved without danger of serious, and
in some cases of fatal results to the suffering soldiers.
The addition to these of those who are entitled to be
transferred would more than duplicate this number.
3d. This hospital is owned by the Government, and
is no expense to the Government except what is required
to operate it, and it is now and ever has been conducted
with the utmost economy and efficiency. It was built,
fitted, and furnished by the Government at an expense of
about 85,000, and has every convenience and facility for
all the purposes of a hospital.
4th. Ft has now on hand a large amount of supplies
of all kinds, sufficient in many particulars for its opera-
tion as long as a hospital will probably be needed in our
State.
5th. The hospital at Concord is merely a depot hos-
WEBSTER HOSPITAL. 171
pital, and has none of the conveniences, facilities, and
accommodations for the sick and suffering soldiers which
are possessed by the Webster Hospital ; neither has it the
capacity for the demands that must be made upon it if
the order is carried into execution.
Therefore economy on the part of the Government,
justice and humanity to the unfortunate and suffering
defenders of the country, alike unite in protestation
against the execution of this order, which I am sure could
never have been issued if all the facts and considerations
of the case had been weighed and considered.
An increased expense to the Government will unavoid-
ably be incurred by the proposed change, to say nothing
of the abandonment of the property of the Government
at Manchester, which is adapted to no other use or pur-
pose. It will also involve a sacrifice of all the comforts
and conveniences of the Webster Hospital, which are not
possessed at the barracks at Concord. Increased suffer-
ing and death, in my judgment, must inevitably follow
the proposed change.
In behalf of our sick and suffering heroes, who look to
me, as the Executive of the State, to watch over and care
for them in their misfortune, to alleviate their sufferings
as far as lies in human power, and to secure to them all the
comforts and consolations of which their unhappy cir-
cumstances admit, I most earnestly protest against the
contemplated change, so long as hospital facilities are
required in this State.
I beg leave to renew my previous application for the
transfer of Xew Hampshire soldiers in hospitals in other
States to our own. Please answer by telegraph.
I have the honor to remain,
Very respectfully yours, etc.,
FREDERICK SMYTH,
Governor of Xetc Hampxld.rc.
This request was granted.
CHAPTER XVI.
COLLEGE AND FIELD.
GOVERNOR SMYTH not only made himself acquainted
with the financial and other affairs of the State, but with
the interests and wants of different sections, which he
visited, increasing his already extensive acquaintance
among leading men. He had appointed on his personal
staff Colonel II. B. Titus, of Chesterfield, as chief ; Daniel
A. Ward, of Concord, John E. Bickford, of Dover, Ken-
dall F. Worcester, of Xashua, Charles G. Pickering, of
Portsmouth, and Albert G. Stevens, of Wentworth,
aids-de-camp, all with the rank of colonel.
At the Commencement of Dartmouth College this year
Governor Smyth was called on to speak in the presence
of Chief Justice Chase, Dr. Massie, of London, and other
distinguished gentlemen. He was very kindly received,
and spoke in substance as follows :
MR. PRESIDENT AND GENTLEMEN:
It is with great diffidence that I rise to address you
upon this occasion. As you are aware, I have never
enjoyed the advantages of a collegiate education, and in
the presence of so many learned gentlemen I feel that I
ought to be silent; but you have welcomed me so cor-
dially that I cannot refrain from addressing to you a few
brief remarks. In calling upon me, your chairman re-
marked that I am Commander-in-Chief of the Army and
Xavy of Xe\v Hampshire. This is true, but, after all,
I find myself, like a "Washington general, "without a
command." Since mv inauguration I have been looking
~ O
far and near for my army and navy, but I have not yet
found them. I can assure you, however, that I have
DARTMOUTH COLLEGE COMMENCEMENT. 173
strong hopes of finding the former before the close of the
coming autumn.
From childhood I have entertained the greatest ven-
eration for Dartmouth College. I was told that you
made great men here, such as Webster, Choate, Wood-
bury, and others of that class. So, in the exercise of that
curiosity which is so characteristic of Yankee boys, I
once traveled on foot from a distant town to Hanover.
After looking over the college edifices, some one gave
me permission to sleep over night on the floor of one of
your public buildings. [Applause.] I considered that
privilege one of the greatest honors of my life. [ Great
applause.] I am well aware of the high standing which
Dartmouth College occupies among the educational insti-
tutions of this country, but I wish in kindness to make
one suggestion, which is that you establish a horticultural
garden for the use of the students of this college. You
have plenty of land for the purpose, and the expense
would be very trifling. The young men who come hither
need physical exercise, and let them have an opportunity
in such a garden as I propose. The great advantages of
limited labor in that direction, combined with the refin-
ing influences of floral vegetation, would, I am confident,
well repay the slight outlay that would be required for the
object proposed.
In conclusion, gentlemen, I congratulate you most
sincerely upon the bright prospects now opening before
this college, and in any lawful enterprise that you may
attempt to carry forward, tending to its prosperity, you
may rest assured of my cordial sympathy and co-opera-
tion. [ Applause.] I thank you for the very kind atten-
tion you have given to my imperfect remarks.
As Governor Smyth resumed his seat, he was again
greeted with the most gratifying applause.
The governor had Ions: been treasurer of the Xew
174 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
Hampshire Agricultural Society, and he was also one
of the vice-presidents of the New England Agricultural
Society, the annual fair of which, in 1865, was holden at
Concord, from the 5th to the 8th of September inclusive.
Governor Smyth delivered the address. Governor An-
drew, of Massachusetts, Governor Cony, of Maine,
Governor Buckingham, of Connecticut, with some mem-
bers of their respective staffs, Sergeant-at-arms Morrisey,
Messrs. Boynton, Poor, Flint, and Hitchcock, of Gover-
nor Andrew's Council, Secretary of State Warren, and
other invited guests, were present. A large concourse of
people assembled to witness the proceedings and hear the
addresses. The following letter of invitation was one of
those sent to the different New England governors :
CONCORD, August 21, 1865.
His EXCELLENCY JOHN A. ANDREW, GOVERNOR OF MAS-
SACHUSETTS :
My Dear Sir : The second annual fair of the New
England Agricultural Society will be held in this city,
commencing on the 5th and closing on the 8th of Sep-
tember next.
I shall be most happy to number yourself and suite
among my guests upon that occasion, when I hope to
meet all the governors of the New England States. The
return of peace to our land brings with it a more active
resumption of those industrial arts and pursuits which
must ever be the great source of our prosperity, and it
seems peculiarly appropriate that this auspicious occasion
should receive all possible encouragement from all who
are especially charged with the promotion of the public
welfare. I trust this opportunity to stimulate the public
interest in this direction will not pass unimproved.
Should you not be able to attend during the entire
exhibition, I would suggest that it is highly desirable
that some one day may be designated when all may be
NEW HAMPSHIRE AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY. 175
present, and I presume that Friday, the last day, will be
as convenient and agreeable for this purpose as any.
Hoping that you will find it both agreeable and con-
venient to favor us with your presence, I have the honor
to remain,
Your obedient servant,
FREDERICK SMYTH,
Governor.
Dr. George B. Loring, president of the Societ}', said :
" Ladies and Gentlemen : It is one part of the duty
of the New England Agricultural Society to create a fra-
ternal feeling among the different New England States,
and in order to create that feeling it is our part to briny;
~ I O
together not only the people but their civil officers. I am
happy to announce to you that Governor Buckingham, of
Connecticut, Governor Cony, of Maine, Governor An-
drew, of Massachusetts, Governor Smyth of New Hamp-
shire, are with us to-day, and to announce also that in
conformity with the custom of the Society his excellency
Governor Smyth of New Hampshire will deliver the ad-
dress on this occasion. I have the honor to introduce to
you his excellency Governor Smyth. "
Governor Smyth said :
GENTLEMEN OF THE SOCIETY :
It becomes my pleasing duty as chief magistrate of the
State in which your annual exhibition is held, to address
you upon the important occasion which has called you to-
gether. I do this in obedience to your appropriate regu-
lations, feeling that it is one of the highest practical du-
ties of civil life to encourage and develop every effort
made for the improvement of agriculture. I cannot
claim to teach you as a practical farmer ; but I can claim
to have made a constant endeavor, in my humble way, to
176 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
keep alive agricultural enterprise and to stimulate agri-
cultural investigation.
It has always been my firm conviction that the safety
of the State and the prosperity of the people require as a
foundation an intelligent knowledge of agriculture ; and
while I have been obliged to admire the practical opera-
tions of others and to search in fields not my own for the
results of well managed experiments, I have learned to
respect the great art which feeds and clothes us and
secures for us all the comfort and beauty of adorned
and civilized life upon a subdued and cultivated earth.
It is with great pleasure and satisfaction, therefore,
that I contemplate the existence of this Association,
theobject of which is to compare ideas, to acquire and
impart knowledge, to learn, if possible, some shorter
and easier way to success than by experience alone. We
wish to get an average of the common progress made
throughout the Xew England States since agricultural
science began to be thought a subject worthy of serious
attention, and this we shall receive, each from his neigh-
bor. There are many men who do not have faith in this
manner of getting knowledge, men scattered about in
the odd nooks and on the mountain farms of these States,
who resist, or are indifferent to the progress of the age,
who deem any acquisition of the kind purchased at too
dear a rate, and so never look out upon the world to see
what is going on. There are mechanics and artisans
who do not yet use, as they might, the most improved im-
plements. Very likely they would laugh at the soldier
who should be content with an old smooth-bore, when
he might as well have that which would make him equal
to a do/en soldiers armed in the old way; but they dis-
play a short-sightedness of the same nature.
A judicious investment in improved implements would
always pay good interest to the farmer; but want of in-
AGRICULTURAL ADDRESS. 177
formation, the reluctance to take time, and often indiffer-
ence, prevent him from investigating the matter. We
wish here to overcome this indifference, and to waken pub-
lic attention to the true course. Every man should do
what he has to do in the best possible manner. It is his
duty as well as his interest to use the very best means,
and so secure to himself a deserved reward for his labor.
But when I see an old man, honest, high-minded, and
patriotic though he may be ; when I observe his hard hand,
his bowed form, his features wrinkled and rough with
summer's suns and winter's cold ; when I remember that
he has spent the best years of his life in a hand-to-hand
contest with the soil, the stumps, and the rocks, out of
which he has wrung a bare living for himself and family,
I think if that man had procured the knowledge which
the best and foremost of you possess, if he had known
what to use out of the numerous inventions offered to his
hand, if he had used not only his own wit and invention but
had known clearly how to appropriate that of others, he
might have achieved better results and had more time re-
maining for reading, or study, or needed relaxation. But
such knowledge ought to be accessible to him and to every
one. It is what we seek to gain here, and what we shall
gain if the objects of this Society are well understood
and rightly carried out. It was, therefore, a happy
thought which first led the president of your Society to
call upon the intelligent agriculturists of Xew England to
join in a common enterprise for mutual benefit.
In his report upon the subject to the Massachusetts
State Board of Agriculture, he said with truth : " In no
section of our country is there such an opportunity pre-
sented for investigation of this art as in Xew England,
with its various soils, and climates, and markets. There
is in Xew York a similarity of agricultural enterprise,
guided and shaped no doubt by the leading agricultural
178 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
minds of that State. In Ohio there is a prevailing pur-
pose throughout the length and breadth of her fertile val-
leys and plains. In Pennsylvania, and Illinois, and Ken-
tucky, there is for each a certain identity of agricultural
interest confined within the boundaries of these States;
and each one of them presents an area so large as to re-
quire a separate agricultural society for itself. New Eng-
land, with an extent of territory not much larger than
any one of these States referred to, has a great variety of
agricultural operations, governed by the wants and skill
of the various States and sections, Maine has her fami-
lies of cattle and horses, naturalized by many generations
upon her pastures and under her skies. New Hampshire
presents her breed also with their characteristics. Ver-
mont stands unrivaled with her horses and sheep. Mas-
sachusetts, with her diversity of soils, has her varieties in
equal proportion. Rhode Island and Connecticut have
their types of valuable animals introduced with skill and
breed until they are, as it were, indigenous. So, too, of
the crops of these States. From the remotest parts of
Maine, and New Hampshire, and Vermont, to the south-
ern borders of Rhode Island and Connecticut, may be
found almost every variety of vegetable growth which
is profitably raised in northern latitudes : oats in the cold
regions, corn on the warm plains, grass on the heavy bot-
toms, tobacco in the warm valleys, fruits of every de-
scription, grapes upon the ledges, cranberries in the
swamps, apples upon the hills, and pears in the warm,
rich, and sheltered gardens, all find within the limits
of Xew England appropriate and congenial spots. "
Those who have witnessed the two exhibitions of this
Society must have been impressed with the truth of these
statements. Not only has the great variety of New Eng-
land population been brought together, but the manifold
objects of agriculture to which our people devote them-
AGRICULTURAL ADDRESS. 179
selves have been well represented. No one branch of
farming stood foremost; no one kind of crop seemed
to outweigh all other crops ; no man could say, after
witnessing these exhibitions, that New England excelled
in corn alone, or in wheat alone, or in horses alone, or in
sheep and cattle and in nothing else. But he will rather
be surprised that when all her fruits and flocks and
herds are brought together, she is found to excel in all.
So that, in a somewhat adverse climate, New England
has a right to be proud of her corn crop, averaging thirty-
one and a half bushels to the acre; she has a right to be
proud of her grass crop, that sheet anchor of every
farmer; she can point with satisfaction to her tobacco
crop, growing in high northern latitudes with the luxuri-
ance of southern slopes ; she can show the greatest vari-
ety and the finest quality of fruits produced in any part
of the world; she can draw around her herds of cattle
those who seek for the best blood with which to develop
and improve this branch of husbandry in remote parts of
our Union ; she pours a stream of her improved Merino
blood into the flocks of the West, and the profits of sheep
husbandry are enhanced at once; she defies the world
with her horses; she attracts all men by her agricultural
machinery ; she takes the lead in experiments in every
branch of agriculture ; and when the products of New
England agricultural labor are gathered together, it is
found that not on one point alone has New England
energy spent itself, but that a long array of enterprises
presents itself, in which each individual has marks of
striking excellence. It is indeed late in the day for any
one to object to societies like this. On every side their
influence is manifested. In general and in particular we
have better horses and cattle, more productive fields and
farms, more effective tools to work with, and we under-
stand better the relations of products to soils and of
180 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
labor to returns. These things have been accomplished
for us. It is also to associations of this and similar
kinds, as well as to the agricultural press, that we owe so
much of the united spirit and purpose of the six New
England States. Few in numbers, limited in territory,
it is by unanimity of effort and persistency of purpose
that we have maintained our influence on the industry,
arts, civilization, and progress of the country. Xew Eng-
land bone and muscle is potent in the forest and on the
prairie. Xew England mind works in the inventions that
enable the Western emigrant to attack and subdue the
roughness of unreclaimed wilds. We do, indeed, see this
influence as it crops out, singly here and there, all over
the country ; but how much more powerful and effect-
ive is the union for the attainment of the common good,
which is, in fact, the very principle of our national exist-
ence.
It is mainly in those countries where agriculture is diffi-
cult and needs care to make it successful that the most
improved methods are in use. The very effort required
to gain a living is an incentive to thought and invention.
The rocks that oppose our communication with the soil,
stumps that our fathers left because they could not get
time to do everything, the marshes and swamps that must
be drained, the hills that will some time be terraced, the
barren pastures that need new life infused into them, are
all so many incentives to effort and thought. They can
be overcome much better and easier with brains than by
hard labor alone ; in fact, a man cannot truly be said to
labor who does not work with head and hand both. !Xow,
whatever advantages those favored portions of the land
possess where it is said the'land needs only to be " tickled
with a hoe to laugh with a harvest " (and I would by no
means deny them), they are very apt to become inhabited
at last by a class of men who have not the patient, plod-
AGRICULTURAL ADDRESS. 181
ding industry, the unconquerable Yankee grit, which
grapples with the hard fields of New England. There
is much in having a world to conquer ; no true greatness,
no splendid achievement, no great deed of the world's
history has been accomplished without work. The men
of New England are built up out of their soil, strong,
compact, solid, like the granite hills they have their
basis in the earth, but point towards heaven.
I know it is customary to represent the farming of New
England as far inferior to that of many other sections of
our country. I have no doubt this is in many respects true.
We may not vie with the broad, fertile lands of the West
in the production of grain, or beef, or wool. We have
no such opportunity afforded us in our narrow valleys
or along our abrupt hillsides as falls to the lot of the
dweller on the inexhaustible soils of the South and West.
We are obliged to abandon many a rough and rugged spot
to its natural wildness where all the arts of husbandry fail.
There are many spots among us which have been saved
from depopulation by the development of mechanical in-
dustry. And yet it Avill be found that wherever the avail-
able soil of New England has been subjected to the band
of man, it has not failed to make a kind response. New
England may be said to be the Paradise of small farmers.
It is to-day rewarding the application of industry to small
tracts of land as well as any section of higher preten-
sions in the business of agriculture. If we will examine
the statistics of New England agriculture, we shall be
surprised to find how high the average of hor produc-
tions per acre ranges when compared with that of other
regions.
The following statistics, showing the average yield per
acre, and the average prices of some of the leading crops
of 1864, for the New England States, compared with
those of the other seventeen loyal States, embracing New
182
LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Maryland, Delaware,
Kentucky, Ohio, Michigan, Indiana, Illinois, Missouri,
Wisconsin, Iowa, Minnesota, Kansas, West Virginia, and
Nebraska Territory, are taken from the monthly report
of the National Agricultural Department for January,
1865.
Product.
Location.
Av. per acre.
Price.
Wheat . .
New England ....
"A
*2 52*
Seventeen other States
L9111
Rye . .
New England ....
ui?
1.971*
Seventeen other States
14f
1-33*
Barley .
New England ....
2li
1.66*
Seventeen other States
21*
1.52H
Oats . . .
New England ....
97*
Seventeen other States
27 s
.-> i
.77*
Corn
New England ....
311
2.01|
Seventeen other States . j 28-Li
1.17*
Buckwheat
New England .
~
18JL-
1.244
Sixteen other States .
17-1
1.201
Potatoes
New England ....
14U
.721
Seventeen other States . 831* 1.1 9f
Hay . . .
New England .... 1JU 24.59
Seventeen other States . 1 T 7 T 18.48*
Beans . . New England ....
14
70111
_J . <~ . ' J_ ~T~~?)~
Seventeen other States
17*4 2.31*
This result is owing to the care bestowed here by each
landholder on his small strip of land. As a general rule,
small farms are more profitable among us in proportion
to the capital invested, and the proprietor of such a farm,
if it is properly treated, need never despair of having an
ample reward for his toil. The mode of farming neces-
sarily adopted here is not attended with large returns,
and admits of little of the spirit of speculation. But it
tends to develop habits of industry, frugality, and pru-
dence, which may never be despised. New England may
AGRICULTURAL ADDRESS. 183
not supply herself with all the necessaries of life from her
own soil ; she may import her luxuries from every cli-
mate ; but she sends the work of her mechanical indus-
try there in exchange.
We may justly claim to have contributed something to
the agriculture of the country, and that, too, at a com-
paratively early day, in the improvement of agricultural
mechanics, the simple implements in common use upon
the farm, in the early history of our material develop-
ment. The traveler in many parts of Europe will, even
now, find the rude implements of agriculture essentially
the same as those used many centuries ago by the tillers
of the soil held subject to imperial Rome. It was my
fortune, some three years ago, to pass through the classic
land of Italy ; and, though not on an agricultural mis-
sion, it was not possible to overlook the rude processes
everywhere applied to the tillage of the soil. An old
wooden plow stood in a vineyard, just under the magnifi-
cent remains of a wall, known to be more than four thou-
sand years old, near the summit of that beautiful Fiesole
which overlooks the vale of the Arno. We handled
and examined it carefully, nor could we help making a
comparison of its rudeness with our own old wooden
plows of less than half a century ago. Xor was this all ;
evidences of equal rudeness struck the eye on every hand.
Stone threshing-floors, directly in the yard of the home-
stead, scooped out in an oval shape, served to catch the
grain that fell under the slow and stately tread of oxen;
hand labor applied where we always use machinery, and
other striking indications of a rude, plodding, uninven-
tive peasantry, met the astonished gaze. There was a
time when the processes of farm labor, not only in New
England but all over the country, were almost analogous
in rtoint of rudeness with those now existing in many
1 * v
parts of Europe. Why has so important a revolution
184 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
taken place in this country, while farming in Italy has
remained stationary ? Is it not that we earlier brought
mind and thought and mechanical ingenuity to bear up-
~ O v Jt
on the labors of the hand, and thereby shortened labor
and economized time ?
The best ha}* and manure forks exhibited at the Royal
Agricultural Society of England, in 1862, we found were
manufactured in Vermont. This the exhibitor admitted,
and a British manufacturer acknowledged that England
had never been able to produce their equal in lightness
and elasticity. It is a source of pride to a Xew England
traveler in Europe to find, not only on the continent, but
in England, improved agricultural implements manufac-
tured in our own Xew England. "\Ve have sent forth a
hardy and enterprising race of men, who have developed
the resources ot their new homes, and have applied those
virtues which they cultivated while they studied the art
of agriculture on their own hard soil.
Grant, for the sake of argument, that the people of
Xew England tail in their farming at home. they do
not fail in their farming abroad. They have opened the
pathway to the West, and carried the energy and charac-
ter of their native hills into the work of peopling those
new lands. Thev have planted institutions of learning
* 1 O
and religion all along our western rivers, and carried their
own names and the names of their birthplace into every
county and town. They Lave learned what it is to apply
all surrounding powers to the best purpose, and are at-
tended with that good fortune which is the legitimate in-
heritance of frugality and honesty. Xew England farm-
ing has succeeded, at home, in applying the best princi-
ples of agriculture, and in supporting a well-educated,
intelligent, and moral population. It has also succeeded
abroad in bringing beneath the control of well-directed
industry lands whose bounties are bestowed upon the cul-
tivator an hundred-fold.
AGRICULTURAL ADDRESS.
The New England farmer who goes forth to a larger
field of labor carries with him much of which he has reason
to he proud. He has received the tone of his life from a
New England home. He has been taught in New Eng-
land schools; he has drunk at the fountain of a New
England church ; and whatever faults he may have, he
has been taught that the mind should always be open to
the best instruction and the heart to the largest human-
ity ; and when he has commenced his new career, he has
but to turn back to his old home to find the best doctrine
as a guide to his life, and the best implement with which
to subdue the land which has fallen to his lot.
While we consider what the efforts of New England
have accomplished for herself and for those sections into
which she has breathed the breath of life, we should not
forget her dependence, and the importance of her close
and ultimate connection with the great producing States
of our Union. The vital force of every nation is chiefly
derived from its agricultural wealth, and from its rela-
tions to large agricultural districts. It is the great pro-
ductive lands of Russia which bind her with hempen
cords to the commercial and manufacturing powers of the
world, and make her strong and influential. It is the lux-
uriant growth of eastern mountains and valleys which
pours wealth and strength into the lap of England, and
makes her, confined as she is to the narrow limits of a
small island, the great exchange of the world, and the
controlling and guiding power among nations. It is the
agricultural wealth of France which enables her to endure
the most devastating wars, which gave her strength to
struggle through the grinding oppression and impover-
ishing taxation of the closing vears of the Bourbon dy-
O t-T* *' /
nasty, and has given her perennial youth through all her
trials. It is the " boundless continent '' which makes the
cluster of our States vigorous and able to increase in
prosperity, in peace, and in war.
186 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
This small tract of territory, called New England,
fringed with an endless variety of bays and harbors,
would seem to be the home of a people devoted to com-
merce. Intersected as she is by rapid streams bursting
from her hillsides and rushing through her valleys, her
career would appear to be by nature almost wholly man-
ufacturing. The genius of her people fits her more es-
pecially for these two great pursuits. Whatever there is
of useful invention may be found within her borders.
Every power, every angle and curve, the wheel, the pul-
ley, and the lever, all eccentric motions, are secured by her
people, for the purpose of increasing with great rapidity
her mechanical and manufacturing operations. Her pop-
ulation gather up and build into manufacturing villages,
and the accumulation of wealth in her inland towns is
astonishing all drawn from the ingenious contrivances
of her mechanics and artisans. Manufactures and com-
merce are her business ; and while she applies herself
to the best methods of farming, and develops the art of
agriculture in the extraordinary manner to which I have
already referred, it is evident that her civil power grows
out of that bond which binds her to the great producing
sections of the South and West. Even were there no
great civil and social and national tie uniting Massachu-
setts and Illinois into one community, their mutual busi-
ness relations as producers and consumers should make
their union complete.
The mills of Xew England roach forth their millions
of fingers to the textile fibers which the cheap pastures
of the West and the savannahs of the South produce
for them. The merchants of Xew England have long
since learned the value of those great markets which are
founded upon the production of food and fiber for our
manufacturing and trading people. The restless and
busy sons of Xew England know where the broad lands
lie from which they can draw their wealth, when their
AGRICULTURAL ADDRESS. 187
native hills and valleys fail to reward their toil. And all
the active and cultivated thought of Xew England,
developed hy her elaborate system of education, finds
service enough in these newly-peopled regions, where
the schoolhouse and the church are yet but recent
institutions. The mutual relations, therefore, which
exist between New England and the large producing
sections of our country, should never be forgotten. With
them we are indeed one people, strong, prosperous, and
able to sustain our national renown. Let us estimate
our position aright, and, while we are conscious of our
ability to bear ourselves well through all trial and disas-
ter, while we know our own independence, and under-
stand the precise character of our service in the great
American States, let us never forget that our prosperous
enterprise has received its great strength from the extent
and diversity of that great producing territory, over
which floats the same flag which protects us, and where
extend the obligations of the Constitution which we call
our own.
But so far as the agricultural greatness and progress of
this country is concerned, we are just upon its threshold.
Behind us is the track of our historic record, of a land
half subdued by man's industry, of institutions estab-
lished, schools, churches, homes, and all the incipient
steps to greatness taken, while in the future stretches out
a vast promise beyond the calculation of the- keenest
vision. The number of acres in this broad land, admira-
ble for cultivation, is almost beyond computation. We
count them by millions. We otter them in farms and
homesteads to all the world. Xowhere else is there such
a beneficent boon to men as in this vast country.
Xow it is because this expanse must some day be cov-
ered with such an immense population, and will afford
sustenance to so manv families, that we in Xew England,
188 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
the cradle of the continent in great ideas, must raise up
among ourselves, and maintain, an influence that will
guide and control the agricultural industry of the country.
This can be done justly in only one way, and that is by
learning and practicing the very best possible methods for
ourselves. When your sons leave the old fireside for the
West or South, when they leave the farm which grows
too small for their rising ambition, be sure that they add
to Xew England loyalty and integrity a thorough knowl-
edge of their calling ; let it be seen that wherever a man
from any of the States embraced within the circle of this
Association shall settle, there the curse is banished from
the land, and obedience to the primal order changes it to
a blessing. These are no fanciful dreams of a theorist.
They are practical, attainable objects worthy of any man's
ambition, worthy, especially, of the young men of our
country.
We are about entering upon a new system of effort,
under the stimulus of the Xational Government, and it
is our duty to do all in our power to make the experi-
ment of agricultural colleges successful, alike honorable
to ourselves and useful to the country at large. I say
to you, gentlemen, representatives of the agricultural
thought, and skill, and science of Xew England, it is our
duty to make this experiment successful ; a duty we owe
to ourselves, to our children, and to the Government that
comes forward so generously to aid and foster these insti-
tutions. We must do the best we can with all the means
placed in our power, and if we fail to exert ourselves to
this end, we shall be unfaithful to the trust which we
have taken upon ourselves to execute. I hope yet to see
the day when every advantage we possess is improved to
the utmost, when the agricultural colleges shall be truly
worthy of their name, and turn out men who can become
masters in their pursuit. In order to accomplish all or
any of these objects, a great deal must be done.
AGRICULTURAL ADDRESS. 189
If there is any one thing lacking in American fairs, as
hitherto sustained, it is the want of a persistent, vital
energy which takes hold of the object to be accomplished
as a real and attainable good. The fair is admirable as a
holiday, but it must not be that alone. These exhibitions
of horses and cattle, this display of the products of our
soil, have a purpose which is dear to the hearts of those
who believe in the future prosperity of the country. Let
me urge upon you, farmers of Xew England, the duty of
seeing that this purpose does not fail of its accomplish-
ment. The machinery of a fair is thorough!}" democratic.
The man who can exercise an influence or has any good
to communicate, can here do it in such a way and under
such auspices as to have some effect. A mair s individual
efforts in his own town or neighborhood may do much,
but associated with others, all intent on the same end, he
can do vastly more. Xow, if the Xew England Fair or
any local or State fair is not such as it ought to be, it is
your duty to take hold and straighten the furrow which
it cuts, infuse into it the life of a high and real object,
give it the support of your presence and sympathy, attend
its preliminary meetings with an ear open to learn, or a
mind to impart knowledge. The change from the usual
routine of farm labor will make this a welcome holiday,
but not that alone ; it will introduce a variety into
thought, as essential for your welfare as a rotation of crops
is to the land. Xo man can plod right along in one beaten
path all his lifetime, without contracting a certain nar-
rowness of habit and thought.
I am happy, farmers of Xew England, to welcome you
to New Hampshire, and to strengthen, if possible, by your
reception here, your regard for that member of the sister-
hood of States over whose councils I have the honor to
preside. I would do all in my power, through this Asso-
ciation and all others, to make Xew England one in
190 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
thought and feeling, as she really is one in interest.
Thrice welcome with returning peace ! Your presence
here to-day indicates a renewed devotion to the substan-
tial interests of the country, and to those pursuits which
have gained for New England so deserved a pre-eminence
in the history of the country. From these prosperous
homes and these thriving centers of labor, her soldiers
went out, feeling that they had the solid support of wealth
and plenty to back them up ; to these homes they have
returned, more ready than ever before to acknowledge the
truth and vital importance of the principle of free labor.
I know no New England State which is willing to resign
her share of the renown which has fallen on any one of
her sisters. Has Maine, or Vermont, or Massachusetts, or
Connecticut, or Rhode Island, achieved any glory, or
developed any industry, or revealed any light, Hew
Hampshire claims her share of the glory, and New Hamp-
shire men feel that their brethren have done the work.
They rejoice in and defend their Union and the flag;
they are ready to die for their country, but they love New
England, this little group of States, this Switzerland of
America, as the home of their fathers; and well they
may. For now, in this day of national triumph, as we
beat the victorious sword into the plowshare, and gather
beneath our triumphant flag, how radiant does the spirit
of New England appear ! God be thanked for our
national victory, for the reward which He has bestowed
upon our people for their self-sacrifice and devotion.
Not a victory of arms alone has He given us, but a tri-
umph of the highest and best social and civil principles
known to man, and brought by our fathers to our own
rocky shores, a victory for freedom, and religion, and
education. May its glories never fade, and may its
influence never cease, until all men in our own land
and throughout the world shall know and enjoy these
blessings !
AGRICULTURAL ADDRESS. 191
The governors each followed in brief remarks. Gov-
ernor Andrew twice referred to Governor Smyth, and
said his address had filled him " with admiration for the
zeal and earnestness with which he has entered into the
discussion of such important principles." In conclusion,
he thanked Governor Smyth for his eloquent address,
and called for cheers, first for his excellency Governor
Smyth, next for Governor Smyth's address, and finally
for the State of New Hampshire.
CHAPTER XVII.
THE GRANITE STATE.
VISITING Lowell soon afterwards, Governor Smyth at-
tended the Fair of the Mechanics' Association, and was
called up at the table by the following toast : " The State
of New Hampshire : From her valleys she sends us the
Merrimack, and from her hills the pure air of freedom.
To-day, through her chief magistrate, she reassures us of
her good will and fraternal Concord. "
Governor Smyth, as reported in a Lowell paper, eulo-
gized Massachusetts in reponse. The people of Xew
Hampshire came to Lowell for many articles of our produc-
tion and manufacture, and that State rejoices in our suc-
cess. A number of years ago he came to Lowell and
worked in the mills of the Middlesex Company for ten
dollars per month, getting him enough money to purchase
articles of clothing he was in need of, and if he had
received larger wages he might be a resident of Lowell
o o o
now, although he had prospered well in his adopted State.
The climate and soil of Xew England produced men and
women possessed of vigor of mind and body to labor as
no other people on this continent could labor. He was
pleased to see so many ladies present at this exhibition,
regarding their presence as a good omen of success.
They should feel interested in such exhibitions. They
should be properly educated in the affairs of business life,
and he did n't believe any man should marry a woman
who would not be a helpmeet to him. He was much
pleased with our excellent fair, and the pleasant grounds
and substantial buildings owned bv our agricultural soci-
THE GRANITE STATE. 193
eties. New Hampshire could not compete successfully
with us in this matter at present.
The same season Governor Smyth attended the county
fair at Milford, and addressed his friends the farmer* in
the following words :
MR. PRESIDENT, LADIES AND GENTLEMEN :
I am happy to meet you to-day under the cheering aus-
pices that now surround us. The hlack clouds of war which
for four long years hung over our land, are broken and
dispelled, and the sun of peace once more sheds its sweet
and cheering rays over our whole country. From the
rough pursuits of war to the mild and genial arts of
peaceful industry, our people turn with cheerful alacrity
and ready adaptation, as is everywhere seen by the ab-
sorption in our varied branches of industry of the thou-
sands of our noble soldiers, who during the past few
months have returned to us from the scenes of the camp
and the battle-field. Evidences of this fact I see before
me to-day. Your exhibition is far in advance of the one
held here two years ago. Many articles here upon exhi-
bition are of superior excellence, and would do credit to
any State fair or other exhibition of larger pretension.
Among these 1 will mention your specimens of bread,
which are of a very superior quality, and which I have
seldom seen excelled. The article of butter, too, does
great credit to the ladies of this section of the country.
Both these articles, as well as many others, show that the
wives and daughters of your agriculturists are trained to.
and skilled in, the household arts, which are as essential to
the success and happiness of our farmers as their own in-
dustry and intelligence in the out-door management of
their farms. Yet notwithstanding these excellences, and
others I might mention, your fair is not fully what it
ought to be, and what you would be glad to have it. nor
13
194 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
what it would be if the people but felt the interest in the
fair which it is entitled to receive and which its importance
deserves. Your excellent facilities for manufacturing-, the
fertile soil of this productive portion of the State, and
the general thrift and industry of your people, are all
iibnndantly ample to insure an exhibition of this charac-
ter of marked excellence in all its departments, if pub-
lic attention were only sufficiently awakened to its impor-
tance and utility.
Yet I regret to say that in Xew Hampshire our people
are in this regard behind many of our sister States, and
even slow Old England. This should not and even need
not lie, and let us hope that it may not long continue. 1
know it is often said that Xew Hampshire " is a good
State to emigrate from, " and perhaps it is generally be-
lieved that our young men can better their fortunes by
turning their backs upon their mother State and seeking
elsewhere for larger returns and richer rewards for their
labors and enterprise. For one I do not share in this feel-
ing. I believe that ours is not only a good State to In-
born in, but a good State to live in and to die in, and that
the one great care and concern of the fathers and mothers
should be to awaken in the hearts of their sons and
daughters a feeling of attachment and affection for and,
of pride and interest in the homes of their childhood and
the State of their fathers. Statistics bear me out in say-
ing that Xew Hampshire is a good agricultural State,
that agricultural labor and enterprise bring here as sure
and ample rewards as in the average of the States of the
I'nion : and yet how vastly can this be improved! The
srreat necessity of our soil is fertilization, and yet ferti-
lizers in abundance are hidden in our bogs and ravines.
untouched and undisturbed for generations. There is
scarcely a limit to the progress which lies in our reach it'
*>ur active and enterprising young men will remain with u>
THE (1RANITE STATE. 195
and give their energies to this pursuit. As I was just say-
ing, it is one of the highest duties of parents to cultivate in
the hearts of their sons attachments for home, and most
effectually can this he done. The home should he made
cheerful and happy, and it should be beautified and
adorned with those little embellishments which, though
cheap and within the reach of all, are yet most powerful
in their attractions for the tender years of childhood and
of youth. Flowers should blossom by the walks and
shed their fragrance in the beaten playground: the vine
should climb the lattice by the door, and cover the ample
trellis with its delicious fruitage; the pear and the plum
tree should have their place in the garden, surrounded by
the hundred delicacies which are seldom found, save in
the gardens of the rich. All these, with little care and
little expense, can be made to beautify every habitation in
the State, and not only to beautify but add substantially
to its value, and the enjoyment of the occupants. The
chcerlessncss and nakedness of thousands of homes, now
dreary and unattractive, might, by means thus simple,
cheap and accessible to all, be forever dispelled, and
beauty and loveliness smile in their stead. To this sub-
ject let me invite your especial attention.
In conclusion, let me urge upon you all to unite in ear-
nest efforts to advance the prosperity of our State and to
secure for her the eminence in her varied industrial pur-
suits which she is capable of attaining. We have all the
elements of prosperity at our hands it' we will but use
them. That we shall avail ourselves of them I have the
greatest confidence.
In October, Governor Smyth, having been named one
of the corporators of the Xational Asylum for Disabled
Soldiers, visited Washington, where he was appointed one
of a committee to prepare regulations for the government
of the institution, and for other preliminary duties.
196 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
General Grant, Admiral Farragut, General Butler, Sur-
geon-General Barnes, H. J. Raymond, ex-Governor Tod,
and Admiral Davis, were his associates on this committee.
At this time he took occasion to see the secretary of
war and Generals Grant and Meade, and to urge the imme-
diate discharge of Xew Hampshire men in service. The
following letter is an acknowledgment of one of numer-
ous testimonials to Governor Smyth of the appreciation
by the returned veterans of what he had done to promote
their comfort, and to secure for them what they were
justly entitled to :
CONCORD, Xovember 21, 1865.
CAPT. DAXA W. KING, XASHUA, X. H. :
Dear Sir : Your note of the 17th instant to Governor
Smyth, accompanied by a pistol which you kindly present
to him, is received, and I am requested to extend to you
his sincere acknowledgment for the present, and to ex-
press his lively appreciation of the friendly sentiments
which prompted it, and which are so freely and flatter-
ingly expressed in your note.
Although your term of service was mostly passed in a
distant part of the country, yet the gallantry of your bat-
talion in the hour of conflict, its hardships and sufferings
in an uncongenial climate, are nevertheless well known to
and appreciated by the people of Xew Hampshire, whose
banner was never more proudly borne than by the " gal-
lant Eighth."
His excellency trusts that your sword may never again
be drawn in the terrible conflict of war ; but, should
occasion come when the honor of our flag shall require
that stern vindication, he doubts not that yours will be
among the first to be drawn in its defense, and, as now.
the last to be sheathed.
CHAS. H. BARTLETT,
Pricate Secretary.
THANKSGIVING PROCLAMATION. 197
That year the governor issued the following
THANKSGIVING PROCLAMATION.
In accordance with the custom of our fathers, the
desire of all wise and Christian hearts, and the spirit of
the Divine revelation, I do, with advice of the council,
hereby appoint Thursday, the thirtieth day of November
next, to be observed by the people of New Hampshire as
a day of public thanksgiving and praise to Almighty God.
That He has brought us safely and victoriously to the
conclusion of a long and desolating war, and that peace
once more returns to bless the nation ;
That He has given it to us, in this generation, to firmly
establish, maintain, and defend the great principles of
civil liberty and equal rights: and that human slavery is
virtually abolished throughout our land :
That, while we mourn our fallen heroes, He has yet
returned to us so many, illustrious for bravery and devo-
tion to their country ;
That, while enduring the scourge of war, He has yet
preserved us from pestilence and famine : and has re-
strained the nations of the earth, and given us external
peace :
That the social and moral welfare of the State, the
learning of the schools, and the prosperity of the churches
have not diminished :
That abundant harvests have crowned the- labors of
the husbandman : that industry has received its due
reward, and that prosperity has blessed the marts of
commerce and trade ;
That the present is manifold in blessings, and the
future rich in hope, -
For these special causes, and the innumerable mercies
that surround and gladden our daily paths, let us abandon
for a dav our usual avocations, assemble ourselves in
198 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
houses of worship, and render devout and heartfelt thanks
to the Sovereign Ruler of the universe and Redeemer
of men.
Given at the council chamber, in Concord, this twenty-
first day of October, in the year of our Lord one thousand
eight hundred and sixty-five, and the ninetieth of the
Independence of the United States of America.
FREDERICK SMYTH.
By His Excellency the Governor, with the advice of the Council.
WALTER HAURIMAX, Secretary of State.
CHAPTER XVIII.
WORK FUll NEW H.AMPSJIIRK.
IN December, 18H5, the governor visited Washington,
and endeavored to get a clear understanding of the State
accounts with the treasury department. lie found mat-
ters in a very complicated condition, mainly from the lack
of such vouchers as the department considered necessary.,
from the inexperience of the accounting officers of the
State troops, and also from the strain of such enormous
transactions as came upon the inadequate clerical force of
the General Government.
Working up the matter with accustomed energy, he
evolved from the mass of tangled accounts the sum of
47,104, due to Xe\v Hampshire.
The sons of Xew Hampshire resident in Washington,
took this occasion to give the governor a serenade. Col.
X. G. ( )rd\vay, Sergeant-at-arms of the House, with a
large party, accompanied by the Treasury Band, pro-
reeded to the Xational Hotel. After the music had
ceased, Governor Smyth appeared, when Colonel Ord-
\vay addressed him, saying that at a late hour in the
afternoon the Xew Hampshire boys had learned that he
was to remain in the city another night, and had. in
accordance with an earnest desire on their part, called
to pay their respects to his excellency, although the
weather was cold, and for this region excessively in-
clement; the sons of the Granite State had been reared
in a climate which had prepared them for any emer-
gency. In behalf of the sons of Xew Hampshire, he
desired to welcome Governor Smyth to the capital of
200 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
the nation, and to say that after hearing from him,
they had come prepared to take him a captive to an
entertainment which awaited them all. To which the
governor replied,
" Colonel Ordway and Sons of Xew Hampshire : It
gives me great pleasure to meet so many of yon to-night,
and I am not surprised at your determination and energy
in appearing here, or anywhere else, even on such a night
as this. New Hampshire men always make their mark
wherever they go, and I hope that yon will not only
make good the old saying that ' Xew Hampshire is a good
place to emigrate from,' but that after von have succeeded
A. O v
In securino; a fair share of this world's ^oods, you will
O < ' t.
^return to the hills and valleys that I know you love so
well, there to live and die with your kindred.
' The Senate and House, at the other end of the avenue,
have horrowed largely from intellect which first dawned
among the snow-clad mountains of your native State, and
I am proud to know that other departments of the Gov-
ernment have learned to appreciate the services of the
young and rising men of Xew Hampshire. Your untir-
ing devotion to the wants of our wounded soldiers in the
hospitals and on the battle-fields, entitles you to the lasting
gratitude of the whole people of your native State.
Your devotion to the Union cause and universal liberty
are too well known to require comment from me at this
time, and I will, therefore, only say that the sentiments
of the people of Xew Hampshire are fixed, and she will
take no steps backward.
I am told by the Sergeant-at-arms of the House of
Representatives that I am under arrest and must go with
yon. and as his authority is unquestioned by members of
Congress, either by day or by niu'ht. T shall willingly
submit. Again thanking you for this friendly call. I am
now ready to accompany yon."
VISIT TO WASHINGTON. 201
The band then struck up "Yankee Doodle," and es-
corted the governor, with about forty Xew Hampshire
men, back to the starting point on Four-and-a-Half street,
where Colonel Ordway gave them an entertainment,
during which speeches were made by Hon. Win. E.
C 'handler, Governor Smyth, Francis JI. Morgan, Esq.,
Hon. E. Ashton Kollins. Hon. Edward H. Rollins, M. C.,
Colonel Ordway, Walcott Hamlin, Esq., and Judge Pear-
son, of the Pension Bureau. The bund then played " Sweet
Home,"' after which the whole company escorted the
governor back to his quarters, and separated with three
cheers for Governor Smyth, and three for the Granite
State.
On the 22d of December, Forefathers Day, he was
present at the banquet of the Xew England Society, at
Delmonico's, in Xew York, and responded to a senti-
ment complimentary to the- sons of Xew Hampshire, as
follows :
MR. PRESIDENT :
The seal of the city which is my adopted resi-
dence has for its motto the words " Labor omnia
vincit," which not only aptly expresses the motive
purpose of a manufacturing place, where the cotton of
the South is woven into cloth, and the iron of Pennsyl-
vania moulded and forged into mighty engines, but it is
significant of that pervading energy and that unconquer-
able will which has ever animated the sons of Xew Eng-
land. Xew Hampshire, sir. is small in extent, but her
rocky ribs throb with that vital current which has given
life and strength to so many communities on this conti-
nent. The sources of the rivers are in the mountains, and
there will be found the sources of virtue also. The people
accustomed to a contest with the hard soil, cheered by the
health of the pure air. will not soon become enervated.
202 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
It is not for me to call the roll of the illustrious names of
her victorious soldiers, living or dead. She claims to
have done no more than her duty in the great contest for
the supremacy of Xew England ideas, and history may
he safely trusted to tell how well.
This is an occasion which calls for no exaltation of one
State above another. AVe have learned on the battle-field
To bury all invidious distinctions, and it is to be hoped
that no resurrection of rebellion ever awaits them. Yet
in that generous rivalry which exults in individual success
only that it may add to the glory of a common country, we
shall not be found wanting. As each separate State of the
six whose great day we here commemorate, has contrib-
uted freely of all that she holds most dear to enhance the
peculiar fame of Xew England, so, sir, I trust, will Xew
England ever prove true to the highest good of the Union.
It was the true nobility of labor that threw down the
gage in the Rebellion, and I rejoice to see it elevated
where it belongs of right, even though it had to be raised
on a million bayonet points. Labor of the brain and of
the hand have made us all we are. United for a praise-
worthy common purpose, they are invincible. Let us go
forth from this occasion prepared to assert and defend
that Union everywhere and on all occasions, as indispen-
sable to the true glory and prosperity of the Union of
States which we all bold dear. [ Applause.]
Among the regiments returning from the war, it will
have been noticed that the Second was the last to finish
its term of service. It went to the war at the first call,
with 1,04*J men, rank and tile, received recruits during
the war, raising its total to 2,200. and returned on this
last month of the year, after twenty-four engagements,
numbering 700 men. Its original commander. Col. dol-
man Marston, having been made general of a division, it
returned under command of Col. J. X. Patterson.
VISIT TO WASHINGTON. 203
Of all the speeches made to the returning soldiers by
Governor Smyth, none have been reported, except this,
which is quoted from a Concord paper.
Governor Smyth said he was proud to welcome to the
State and to their homes the officers and soldiers of the
Second Regiment, a regiment dear in the recollections
of us all. The sight of them brought to his mind many
incidents which he had witnessed on the battle-field.
They had fought long and well. The prophecy had been
fulfilled in their case that " the first shall be last." They
had served through the Rebellion faithfully and well, and
were the last to return to the State. The sight of this
regiment inspired us with emotions never to be for-
gotten. There were those who could not be welcomed
home, having yielded up their lives on the bloody fields
of war. He was reminded of the scenes of Gettys-
burg, where it was his fortune to assist in caring
for the wounded, and performing the last sad duties for
the dead. Me remembered passing a building which he
was told contained none but rebels, and on hearing his
name called, he entered, there to find members of this
regiment, whom he removed to the spot where the
wounded of the regiment were lying: and he was happy
to see one of those men before him to-day. There was
one person he did not see who ought to be here to-day,
and that was Miss Harriet Dame. She had labored and
slept on the battle-field, caring for the wounded and the
sick, the dying and the dead. They all knew her deeds
of kindness. She was a noble woman, to be held in kind
remembrance by the people of this State.
The people of Xew Hampshire," lie said. " understand
your history ; they remember your illustrious deeds, and
cherish their memories. You have performed your duties
as soldiers well : now you have duties as citizens to dis-
charge. The soldiers of the regiments which have re-
204 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
turned have quietly resumed the duties of citizens, not-
withstanding disorder was prophesied. They have been
absorbed in industrial classes."
The apparent increase of crime was not chargeable to
the account of the returned soldier, but, he believed, to
returned rebels from the South, and that statistics now
being prepared in Massachusetts would prove this. The
soldiers feel the dignity and importance of their position
as part of the community. The people had a duty to
perform to the families of needy soldiers. State aid now
ceased. The people should see to it that no soldier, nor
wife of a soldier, nor child of a soldier, should suffer
through the inclement season. There would be much
quiet suffering, and it should be sought out and relieved.
'No less than this is due to the families of the soldiers
who have offered their lives that the country might live.
"And now, soldiers," said the governor, in conclusion,
" I wish you a happy and merry Christmas, a safe return
to your homes, and that you may live in such a manner as
to be beloved by all around you. Having been soldiers,
brave soldiers, may you now be citizens, brave citizens/'
CHAPTER XIX.
RAILROAD AFFAIRS AT NEWPORT AND CLARKMONT. THE
GOVERNOR RE-NOMINATED.
IN March, 1866, at a meeting held in Newport by
persons interested in the extension of the Concord
& Claremont Railroad to the Connecticut river, Governor
Smyth, on being introduced by Hon. Edmund Burke, was
greeted (according to correspondence of the Boston Jour-
nal) " with repeated rounds of enthusiastic applause."
He said that although it was his first visit to Xewport,
he saw many friendly faces. He paid an eloquent tribute of
praise and respect to the enterprise, thrift, and intelligence
of the people of northwestern Xew Hampshire, and
agreed with other speakers that they deserved a railroad.
Xature had ordained it, the country awaited development,
money was offered, and (turning to the venerable Judge
Xesmith, who presided) he added, " I believe the case is
ready for the jury; and now, gentlemen, go ahead and
build your road."
In June following a meeting was held at Claremont, in
furtherance of the same object. According to a report in
the Boston Journal, the governor spoke about half an
hour. Among other things, he said it gave him great
pleasure to visit this beautiful town and lovely valley. " I
have long wished to pay my respects to the citizens of
this section of the State, but could not spend the time, it
takes so long to get here. Your pleasant streets and
charming hills and mountains invite delicious repose, and 1
wish I could spend a month in this delightful valley of
Xew England. Years ago the people of Manchester and
200 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
vicinity started out with a railroad in this direction, and
we expected you to meet us, but you did n't come. We
got as far as Henniker, and then held out our arms to
embrace you : but you were not there ! [ Applause. ]
Then Governor Gilmore tore up part of the track, and
bewail another route. [A voice: "And he did it Sunday,
too." Laughter and applause.] Xow the people of
central and southern Xew Hampshire want to meet
you by one route if they can't by another. As
I look at your smiling faces to-day, I am led to
believe that if you should will it you might raise the
money for this railroad in one hour, and commence the
work to-morrow morning;. [Applause.] I sincerely
believe the line will be built, and that it will be a
profitable investment. It will not be any branch road,
but a grand passenger and freight thoroughfare to the
West. Permit me to wish you the greatest success in the
contemplated scheme, and to hope that ere long the
whistle of the iron horse may be heard in your valleys
and along your streams, and may reverberate far away
among the mountains."
Xothins; of moment occurred to disturb the harmonv
O t
of affairs, and the close of the official year found no voice
raised against the re-nomination of Governor Smvth.
lie was re-elected by a majority of about five thousand,
a victory quite as significant as that of his first year, in
1SJ5, when the Hush of returning peace and of national
victory had so far subdued Democratic party zeal that a
very small vote was polled. But, with all their efforts,
they were able to gain only about seven hundred on
their vote of the previous vear.
On the loth of March following, there was a meeting
of congratulation in Smyth's Hall, addressed by General
Kdward \Y . Kinks, of Massachusetts, and others, at
which the governor said, whatever doubts he miifht have
KK-NOMIXATFON FOR (JOVERNOK. 207
entertained of his own abilities or merits in the discharge
of the duties to which he had been called, he never for
one moment distrusted the patriotism and fidelity of the
Republican party of New Hampshire, nor the verdict they
would render on this occasion. They had a clear percep-
tion of the situation, and comprehended their duties as
citizens too well to be distracted by any side issue, or by
any apparent differences among men professing to desire
the same ends. In this city, without effort and almost
without organization, the Republican party had gained
on their vote of last year. For this compliment, so far
as it was personal, he heartily thanked them, and briefly
but appropriately alluded to his personal obligations
to his fellow citizens of Manchester, and the uniform
support which they had rendered him. But lie con-
sidered that men and personal ends or gratifications were
of little moment compared with the great interests that
concern the nation and humanity. The enemies of free-
dom and equal rights were awake, alert, and dangerous.
He said it was a fact that no man could truly deny, that
Xcw Hampshire lost to the Republican party would have
carried joy to the heart of every rebel and every rebel
sympathizer, from the deserters who have come in from
Canada to deposit their votes, to the most bitter son of
the South who no\v silently chews the cud of defeat and
meditates new treason against the (lovernment. It would
have rejoiced those who just now love Andrew Johnson
only because they hope he will help them destrov the
[arty which has saved the Union: and this hope has gal-
vanized so much life into the old Democratic partv of
Xew Hampshire that she would have surprised and pos-
sibly beaten men whose patriotism was less warm, or
whose courage had not been tried on so many battle-fields.
Xot long after the election, the following correspond-
ence took place :
208 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
STATE OF XEAV HAMPSHIRE,
EXECUTIVE DEPARTMENT,
CONCORD, X. II., March 20, 1866.
HON. AV.M. H. SEWARD, SECRETARY OF STATE, WASHING-
TON, D. C. :
Dear 8ir : I am informed that Captain Cornelius
Healey, a citizen of this State, and officer of its militia, is
now incarcerated in Ireland, by order of the British Gov-
ernment, upon the suspicion of being engaged in the
Fenian movement.
Captain Healey served for three years in our war
against the Rebellion, as captain of the Eighth Xew
Hampshire Volunteers, and won the reputation of a brave
and faithful officer.
On returning from the war, broken in health, and still
suffering from a disease contracted in the service, he was
advised by his physician to take a sea voyage to Ireland,
in the hope that it would favorably influence the disease
under which he was suffering : acting upon the sug-
gestion, he started for that country a few months since,
and, as I understand, was seized and imprisoned soon
after his arrival.
It is quite impossible for Captain Healey, in his present
condition, to endure even a brief period of imprisonment,
without most imminent danger of serious and even fatal
consequences, and I feel it my duty to urge upon you the
utmost importance of immediate steps being taken by
our (Jovernment, through the proper officials, to I) ring
this matter to the notice of the British authorities, with
a view to his early discharge and liberation.
Trusting that the subject will receive your immediate
attention and appropriate action. I have the honor to be
Your obedient servant,
FREDERICK SMYTH,
(Vc/''< I'/ioi' of A*.//' Hdnisliire.
CAPTAIN HEALEY. 209
DEPARTMENT OF STATE,
WASHINGTON, March 27, 1866.
To His EXCELLENCY FREDERICK SMYTH, GOVERNOR OF THE
STATE OF XEW HAMPSHIRE, CONCORD, N. H. :
Sir : I have the honor to acknowledge the receipt of
your letter of the 20th instant, and its accompaniments
relative to the arrest and detention of Captain Ilealey
in Ireland, upon a charge of being connected with the
Fenian movement, and to inform yon that the matter will
be brought to the attention of the British Government
at the earliest practicable moment, by Mr. Adams, the
United States minister in London.
I have the honor to be your excellency's very obedient
servant,
WILLIAM H. Sl
Perhaps no member of the Republican party over en-
joyed greater popularity among our fellow-citizens of
Irish descent in Manchester. His prompt action in behalf
of Captain Ilealey is an indication of the quality that
produces this popularity.
The Republican nominating convention for State offi-
cers met in Phenix Hall, at Concord. .January 3, 1866.
The following resolution from the party platform for the
year will show the estimate put upon the standing of the
candidate :
k - 7iVso//Y(/, That the State and national faith, pledged
for the redemption of the public debt incurred in defense
of the Union, must be kept inviolate: and that we insist
upon an economy in the public expenditures, and pledge
the Republican party of Xew Hampshire to retrenchment
and reform, wherever practicable; and of the sincerity
of this pledge we give the highest guaranty in our
power, by presenting again for re-election our present
210 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
popular chief magistrate, Hon. Frederick Smyth, against
wliose official or personal integrity not even political
rancor has dared utter a word. The people know his
devotion to their interests, honor his integrity, and will
triumphantly re-elect him."
After the announcement of the action of the conven-
tion had been made known to Governor Smyth with the
usual form, he came forward, was received with hearty
applause, and said :
GENTLEMEN OF THE CONVENTION :
I will not pretend an indifference to the manner in
which you have received me here to day, nor to the very
flattering unanimity which has characterized your action.
Having conscientiously labored for what I believed to be
the best interests of Xew Hampshire, if in so doing I have
met your approbation and that of the people whom you
represent, it is the highest reward possible to any public
servant. I thank you, therefore, sincerely and heartily,
for the nomination; and it is also not improper on this
occasion that I should notice the consideration with which
the measures of my administration have been received,
both by parties and people, many of whom would
undoubtedly have preferred some other man to represent
their interests and their principles; and this is done the
more readily because I am not conscious that I have
varied a hair from principle, or wavered a particle in the
discharge of duty, to seek approbation of friend or foe.
But I will say, gentlemen, that in my efforts to advance
and promote the interests of the State I have found only
kind words and good wishes everywhere and on all sides.
So far as this could alleviate the anxieties always insep-
arable from the discharge of the duties of responsible
office, nothing remains to be wished for. The manner of
its bestowal will encourage and strengthen me through
REPUBLICAN CONVENTION. 211
the remaining months of my term, and, if ratified by the
people, I shall for another year sacrifice any personal
consideration which may stand in the way of a full dis-
charge of duty to the State. All my strength and powers
shall be devoted to developing the ample resources, and
encouraging the industries, of our beloved State. With
the restoration of peace, blessed peace, ISTew Hampshire
must assume the rank to which she is nobly entitled
among the progressive States of the Union. Others may
excel her in many of the conditions which go to make up
national wealth, but an intelligent people, well-managed
finances, indomitable industry, and thorough patriotism,
with reverence for the laws of God, and respect for the
laws and rights of man, make her rich in the essential
elements of true greatness. Allow me to thank you
again, gentlemen of the convention, for the manner of
this reception and nomination, and to wish you a safe
return to happy homes and families, and prosperity
durino- life.
CHAPTER XX.
SECOND INAUGURAL ADDRESS.
THE second inauguration of Governor Smyth, on the
7th of June, 1866, was attended by a large concourse of
citizens, and by several distinguished officials from other
States, including Governors Bullock, of Massachusetts,
and Dillingham, of Vermont. The escort was unusually
large, and was composed in good degree of those who
had served in the war, and who gave evidence of martial
training. Following is the message :
GENTLEMEN OF THE SENATE AND HOUSE OF REPRESENTA-
TIVES :
Appearing before you to assume the responsible duties
which have again been confided to my charge, allow me
iirst to congratulate you upon the extensive and impor-
tant improvements which we witness in this now commo-
dious and attractive public edifice. Xeither should it be
forgotten that for these improved facilities and ample
accommodations we are indebted to the public spirit and
judicious enterprise of the city of Concord. The popular
expectation created by its pledges has been fully and
fairly met, and the Capitol of the State will no longer be
regarded as an impeachment upon the character of the
people for progressive enterprise. The several apartments
assigned for the use of the various public officers seem to
be adequate and convenient for the transaction of public
business, while increased security is afforded to the
records, so long exposed to destruction by fire and other-
wise. The condition of the public grounds immediately
surrounding the Capitol will doubtless receive your atten-
SECOND INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 213
tion. They should he protected from encroachments,
and made as attractive as their limits will allow. Having
thus secured to ourselves the essential requisites for the
transaction of the public business, we shall, I trust, in all
things keep pace with this improvement, so long needed,
and so admirably accomplished.
FINANCE.
The receipts into the treasury of the State for the year
ending June 1, 18GG, were $4,116,078.54, and were de-
rived from the following sources, namely :
State tax $748,436 12
Railroad tax 184,967 92
Savings bank tax ...... 06, 077 17
United States war claims .... 91,352 98
Civil commissions ...... 714 00
Public property ...... 18 57
Copyright of N. II. reports .... 533 00
State-prison ....... 1,034 77
Interest on deposits 1,295 92
State bonds 610,228 24
State notes 2,397,675 74
In treasury June 1, 1865 . 23,744 11
$4, IK!, 078 54
The disbursements of the year amounted to -So, 958,
198.H9, and were for the following purposes:
Towns for State aid .*5(>9,2o4 92
Bounty to volunteers .... 50,200 00
Military expenses . . 24.013 84
Recruiting fees ...... 3,250 00
Cattle commission cvs ..... 856 53
Salaries 29.84* 2!
Legislature .... . 28.916 4i>
Council ... . . . 3.221 40
Legislative resolutions ..... 15,645 .si
Towns. Railroad tax dividends . . . 85,614 91
Towns. Savings bank tax dividends . . 43,906 74
214 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
State printing, including Adj. -General's report 14,645 53
Volunteer militia 1,753 60
Adj. -General and Quartermaster's Departments 8,026 14
Extra edition of Adj. -General's report . . 2,75707
State-prison 211 73
Asylum for the Insane 6,647 09
House of Reformation. (5,250 00
Deaf and Dumb Asylum 1 .067 92
Trust funds 655 21
Governor's contingent fund .... 10 87
Abatement of taxes ..... 730 13
School commissioners ..... 725 91
National cemetery 1,260 00
Fish commissioners 100 00
Bounty on wild animals 218 50
Notes paid 2,831,14957
Interest 286,411 55
8:5,958,199 69
Cash in Treasury, June 1, 1866 . . . 157,87885
$4,116,078 54
STATE DEBT.
Funded debts and trust funds . . . 82,238,152 15
Xotrs . 1,922.546 74
Total debt, June 1, 1866 . . 84,160.698 89
The cash in the treasury is sufficient to pay all present
outstanding obligations, as estimated by the auditor.
The details <>t' the foregoing receipts and expenditures
are given in the report of the auditor, in which is clearly
indicated the source of all receipts into the treasury, and
to whom and for what all expenditures have been made.
It will be observed that the transactions of the treasury
the past year greatly exceed in amount those of any pre-
vious year. It has, in fact, been the paying year of the
war, and it is a matter of congratulation that we have
been able to pass through it not only unscathed in our
SECOND INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 215
credit, but have strengthened the confidence of our cred-
itors in our ability and determination to meet and dis-
charge our obligations promptly at maturity.
To provide for the heavy and pressing demands upon
the treasury at the lowest possible rates, and at the same
time to strengthen and improve our securities in the
money market, has been the anxious and laborious task
of the executive the past year. It has been necessary to
raise upwards of three millions of dollars to meet the
outstanding and maturing obligations of the State. In no
instance has more than the market rate of interest been
paid, or more than could have been realized from invest-
ments in Government securities at current prices, although
exempt from taxation, while ours were not. The highest
rate that has been paid is eight per cent, while consider-
able sums have been obtained at six and seven.
The revenue the pivsent year, as esti-
mated by the auditor, will be . :$8.j(>,80n
He estimates the ordinary expenses at . .$91,02.>
Extraordinary expenses, embracing State
aid due towns, interest on notes and
bonds, appropriations to charitable
institutions, and legislative resolves .")!:>, .V)0 (5<>4, .">:.'.">
Leaving to be applied to llie reduction of
the Slate debt S'2-'>-2 .'27 '>
If this session of the legislature should not be pro-
tracted bevond that of last year, and if all claims upon
the treasury which will be pressed upon your attention
shall be most carefully scrutinized, and the most rigid
economv and rigorous retrenchment of expenses are
insisted upon in all the departments, I have great confi-
dence that this gratifying result may he realized.
The ordinarv expenses of the State should be brought
back to a peace basis as rapidly as the condition of public
affairs will admit. Satisfactory progress has been made
216 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
in this direction the past year, and the present will, I
anticipate, witness a substantial return to it. This duty
we owe to the present and prospective tax-payers of our
State.
The discontinuance of State aid, and other items of
extraordinary expenditure growing out of the war, will
admit of a reduction of the State tax of $250,000 next
year, and still leave a probable balance of 1200,000 to be
applied in reduction of the State debt.
In view of the heavy town and national taxation, I
would favor the policy of reducing our State tax annually
to a sum sufficient only to meet all current expenditures,
and to pay $ 200,000 of the principal of our debt, which
will wholly discharge it in twenty years.
The treasurer has now on hand about three and one
quarter million dollars in six per cent un-negotiated bonds,
authorized by the laws of 1861, 1862, and 1864, which it
has not been deemed advisable to place upon the market.
I recommend that these bonds be destroyed, with the
exception of half a million, which, with what have been
negotiated, will be as largo an amount as we shall need,
or can well protect, in that form. The very existence of
so large an amount of bonds now on hand, and liable to
bo put upon tin' market, has a damaging effect upon all
our securities.
The floating debt of the State is now in a condition, if
wisely managed, to be carried without great inconve-
nience, and. when reduced, as it may be by the sale of
the balance of these bonds, there can be but little danger
of serious embarrassments resulting therefrom, while it
will be subject to an annual reduction from an application
of the State revenues to its extinguishment.
Xo legislation in regard to our finances is asked at the
present session, except authority to provide means to
meet maturing obligations, amounting to about $1,800,000.
SECOND INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 217
I particularly invite your attention to the full and care-
ful statements relating 1 to our financial transactions, con-
tained in the able report of the auditor.
CLAIMS AGAINST THE UNITED STATES.
Ill the report of the State treasurer, last June, a charge
against the United States of .$494,451.37 was reckoned as
available assets, and deducted from the State indebtedness
of that date. On examination into this claim, soon after
the adjournment of the legislature, it was found that the
State owed the United States 113,600.45, by the account
at Washington, which was as follows :
AMOUNT CHARGED THE STATE.
1826 Nov. 1. Balance on .settlement, this
date .... 8K>,s;;9 94
1861 Oftset of direct tax . . 185,645 67
1861 Oct. 7. Cash 200,000 00
1 860 Sept. 19. Cash ... . 224,000 00
1864 Jan. l.>. Cash 47,134 19
1864 Dec. 16. Cash 200,000 00
8867,619 80
Deducting amount credited to the State on
claims allowed in 1'nll to June. 1865 . 754.019 ;55
Left due United States . . . .811:5, 600 45
The whole amount of claims charged l>v the
State to the Inited States, prior to .June.
1S65, was 81,;U9,504 18
From whieh should lie deducted a claim for
horses, for which pay had been received.
for llhode Island Cavalry, of . . .>X.490 00
Leaving actual amount .... $1,.">1 1."14 is
Deducting from this the whole amount allowed
to June 1, 1x65 . . . 754.nl!) :15
Left suspended and disallowed . . . $556,994 x:>
Claims added since -lime. 1x65 ;>4,017 46
218 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
Making the amount rejected and unadjusted
at that time 591,012 29
There has been allowed of these claims during
the past year 157,81924
Leaving a balance still rejected . . . 8-433,19305
From the foregoing sum, thus allowed . . 157,819 24
Deducting the balance due from the United
States, as before shown .... 113,600 45
Leaves a balance of .....
Received into the State Treasury, which with
847,134.19, found charged tiie State in
1804, which was not received until Decem-
ber last . 47,134 19
Shows paid into the. Treasury, the past year,
from these claims, after paying all the
balance which was due the (General Gov-
ernment 891,352 98
All the foregoing claims wore for raising, subsisting,
arming, and equipping the earlier regiments sent into the
field before the (-General Government had got its war
machinery in motion.
By act of Congress, passed July 17, 1861, the secre-
tary of the treasury was authorized to pay to the States
claims of this character, on the presentation of " proper
vouchers." Great difficulty has been experienced in
obtaining the " vouchers " required by the rules of the
department, for claims which had been once rejected,
and it was only by urgent and persistent effort that these
last allowances have been obtained, in some cases by
procuring a modification of the rules of the treasury
department. Most of the balance of the 8433,194.60,
still rejected, being for bounties paid by the State to
induce men to volunteer, is entirely inadmissible, and
never should have been presented, as no such claim is
authorized by tin- act, or has ever been paid to any
SECOND INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 219
State by the United States. The remainder consists of
expenditures on account of commissioned officers, ex-
penses of agents sent from the State to take care of sick
and wounded soldiers, (considered as " patriotic contribu-
tions!") payments made to officers and men who were
paid a second time by the United States paymaster, excess
in price paid for military property, and a variety of mis-
cellaneous expenditures for which no vouchers have yet
been found.
Efforts will not be relaxed by the executive to obtain
still more of these suspended claims, if possible ; but
there is no probability that more than some twenty or
thirty thousand dollars of the same can be allowed,
without further action of Congress, which is confidently
hoped for.
CLAIMS OF THE CITIES AND TOWNS FOR NATIONAL BOUNTIES
ADVANCE!).
Under the call of the President for 300,000 men, to be
raised prior to January 5, 1864, the cities and towns in
this State were authorized by the provost-marshal gen-
eral to advance the national bounties to volunteers, to fill
their quotas under this call, with the understanding that
the bounties thus advanced would be refunded in install-
ments, as they became due. through the agency of the
State authorities.
The sum thus advanced amounted, in the aggregate, to
8065,512. The first installment, of 8107, 304. was received
before the troops left for the field, and 82<i,920 only of
the second installment, shortly after, which was dis-
tributed TO the towns by the State treasurer. Xo further
payments having been made, upon an investigation at
Washington for the cause of the suspension of these
reimbursements, I learned that the allotment rolls, con-
taining 1 an account of these advance bounties, which had
220 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
been furnished the paymaster-general by the State, had
been lost, and that in some cases these bounties had
again been paid to the men in the field by the paymasters.
I also ascertained of the second auditor of the treasury
that the ///> of some of these men who died in the
service were receiving the bounties to which they would
have been entitled had no assignment been made, the
auditor having no knowledge of them. After furnishing
the proper papers, and after many and repeated importu-
nities, the payment to the soldier, or his heirs, was sus-
pended, and an examination instituted to ascertain what
portion of these claims was still due, and orders obtained
for the balance, to be paid agreeably to the assignments.
There is great difficulty and delay in correctly adjusting
this matter, caused by the large number of desertions
found to have taken place from these volunteers, and also
in ascertaining whether those reported missing are de-
serters, or deceased. In some of the regiments to which
these men were assigned, more than half deserted.
The bounties of these will not. of course, be repaid, and
will be a total loss to the towns, while those who received
them disgraced the town, the State, and the regiments to
which they were assigned.
I now have reliable assurances that the bounties not
paid prior to this examination, of those who served
during the time of enlistment, and of those who died in
the service, will be refunded as soon as the number can
be ascertained. About -SOO.OOO of this has been paid to
the State treasurer within a few days. This amount,
with all that shall hereafter be received, will be distri-
buted to the towns to which it belongs. The payments
which have been wrongfully made to the soldier, or hi>
heirs, by the I'nited States, cannot be repaid to the towns
except by an act of Congress, which there is a favor-
able prospect of procuring. Efforts will be continued to
SECOND INAUGUKAL ADDRESS. 221
secure all the rights of towns in this matter, with as little
delay as possible.
WAR EXPENSES OF TOWNS.
Iii accordance with a law passed at the last session of
the legislature, a commission has been appointed to
audit the war expenses of towns, and their report will be
submitted to you at the present session. These expenses
will appear of extraordinary magnitude, amounting to
between six and seven millions of dollars ; but the cir-
cumstances under which they were contracted were such
as rendered the exercise of a strict or judicious economy
very difficult.
A year's experience in the management of the State
finances has but strengthened and confirmed the convic-
tion expressed in my former message, that the assumption
of this debt, or any portion of it, by the State, will be
absolutely impracticable, prior to the action of the Gen-
eral Government in that direction. The close of the war
found the credit of the State threatened with disaster,
and clamorous creditors knocking in vain at the door of
an empty treasury. If public confidence has been since
restored, it is because we have declared that the State
debt has reached its limit of expansion, and is now placed
upon a basis of gradual diminution and final extinction.
Any increase, under these circumstances, would shake
the re-established confidence, and send us again into the
money market, as before, begging for loans at exorbitant
interest; whereas money is now easily obtained at the
legal and customary rates. The only condition upon
which any portion of this debt can be properly assumed
by the State, prior to the assumption of the same by the
General Government, is upon a corresponding increase of
the State tax, and an immediate payment of the same,
a course that you will very readily appreciate could afford
222 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
no relief. The towns can provide for this debt, when
subdivided among them as it now is; but its management
through the State Government, in the unwieldy aggregate
shown by the report of the committee, is practically im-
possible. It would be unwise and impolitic in the ex-
treme to further burden the credit of the State, as well
as unjust to those who hold her bonds, and have a right
to demand a prudent care for her financial interests.
Under present and impending obligations which must be
met, there is every reason to believe that the burden will
be easily sustained; but were such obligations to be
greatlv increased now, none would suft'er more than those
O *-
who are asking for this very aid.
I would, however, recommend that whatever portion of
the State and town bounties the General Government
may hereafter refund, be apportioned among the several
towns in proportion to the number of men furnished by
each. Should Congress ultimately take such action in
this matter as is now generally anticipated, great and
substantial relief will thus be furnished.
TAXATION.
The heavy burdens which the recent Rebellion has cast
upon the country, and which still press upon the people
in the form of national, State, and local indebtedness,
necessitates a system of taxation which will be borne
without complaint, only when fairly and equitably imposed
upon every class, and upon all kinds of property. The
ordinary routine of taxation in former years was so little
felt that it hardly occasioned complaint in any quarter,
and it was for the most part fairly distributed upon all
visible or corporeal property. Upon that kind of prop-
erty represented by promises to pay, and other evidences
of indebtedness, it has fallen very lightly, and the cunning
and craftv have learned, in one wav or another, to evade
SECOND INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 223
the tax-gatherer, and to secure exemption in the very
quarter where there was the most undoubted ahility to
pay. Yet in the general prosperity and ease of individual
affairs, this scarcely elicited a passing comment.
Now all branches of industry are burdened with taxa-
tion, and the demands of the collector have increased four-
fold. While every tangible article in a man's possession
is made to contribute to the general treasury, it becomes
a matter of vital interest to a very great majority of the
people, that every one should bear a just share of the
burdens. And even were there a small minority only
who feel the unequal weight of this loud, the universal
sense of justice requires that it shall be made as equal as
the imperfection of human legislation will allow.
In this connection I cannot forbear allusion to a kin-
dred subject, which, although not within the direct sphere
of your action, is yet too important in its effects upon the
welfare of the people not to receive attention.
It has been proposed to fund our national debt, esti-
mated, in round numbers, at three thousand millions of
dollars, in bonds exempt from taxation. Whatever may
have been the wisdom which prompted the resort by
which these loans were obtained, all are ready to admit
the great national exigency which called for extraordinary
measures. In the midst of a eonffict, the duration of
which no man could predict, (Government was forced to
enter the market armed with every advantage which wis-
dom could devise, and every attraction which should
forestall all competitors. It therefore practically said to
the desired creditor. Take my bonds, and your neighbor,
who has less faith or means, shall pay all the taxes. If
there was at that time any thought or complaint of injus-
tice, it was drowned by the din of arms, or banished by
more immediate and pressing danger. The pledges were
given, the loans effected, and the nation saved in its hour
224 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
of trial and danger. Of course the faith and pledge of
the nation, in this, as in other things, must be sacredly
kept.
But circumstances are now changed ; the national credit
is all the better for the terrific storm which it has passed
through and successfully withstood. Whoever doubts it,
with an adequate knowledge of the great resources at
command, would hardly be assured by any security which
it is possible to imagine. Since necessity is no longer an
element in the calculation, and the Government does not
need to compete with its feebler rivals in the money
markets of the country, it would seem to be but a simple
question of justice, whether it will still adhere to a posi-
tion assumed under great pressure. The debt of the
Government is within its grasp, and can be managed
without difficulty. Is there any good and valid reason for
funding it in securities exempt from local and State taxa-
tion ? Clearly, I think not ; and that great inequality,
hardship, and injustice, will result from so doing. A
large portion of the surplus wealth of the country is now
invested in national securities, and will long remain so.
There is no sound reason existing why all the wealth of
the country should not be equally taxed. If it were
possible, to-day, to make every dollar of property of
every kind contribute its just share toward the burden of
the Government, from the sehool district upward, the load
would be borne much more easily. The conflict Avhich
may be provoked between the holders of this fortunate
property and those whose business necessities require
them to invest elsewhere, will at length endanger the
bonds themselves, for they lose their value unless based
on the credit of a well-governed and contented country.
Of the dangers and evils of class legislation, we have
already seen too much ; and while the faith of the nation
should be kept inviolate, it would seem to be most unwise
SECOND INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 225
to perpetuate a class of property-holders exempted from
taxation. The national treasury is able to take up the
load, and impose it again in a fair and equitable manner,
and thus encourage the great middle class, and the people
in the farming towns, remote from the vicinity of great
markets, who find their taxes difficult to pay, especially
under an instinctive sense of injustice.
I hope you will, at an early day, make some decided
expression of opinion, such as may indicate to the repre-
sentatives of Xew Hampshire, in Congress, the feeling
which exists upon this subject.
INDUSTRIES OF THE STATE.
Tn my last message I alluded to the resources of the
State, of all descriptions, as offering inducements to in-
dustry and prudence on the part of our people. The
efforts which were then going on for their development
have been crowned with abundant success.
In agricultural enterprise Xew Hampshire keeps pace
with her sister States by the adoption of new methods of
improvement, and by constant devotion to every means
of rendering the cultivation of her soil remunerative to
the farmer. There is, even to the most careless observer,
universal evidence of growing prosperity, manifested in
well-ordered and comfortable buildings, cultivated fields,
and domestic animals, well bred and wisely cared for.
At the Xew Kngland Fair last year we had every reason
TO be proud of the contributions from our own farmers;
and it was truly gratifying to observe that, in many classes
of cattle, sheep, and horses, Xew Hampshire presented
specimens almost if not quite unequal ed.
The ] tress of the State has shown increased interest in
agricultural matters during the last year, and I cannot too
highly commend that enterprise and intelligence which lias
supplied our agricultural readers with well-considered and
220 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
practical essays u]>on those branches of agriculture in
which we are most interested. I trust these efforts will he
duly appreciated.
Of our manufactures, although still in their infancy,
we have every reason to he proud. The growth of towns
and villages along our streams still continues with increas-
ing activity, and there can he no doubt that the large
amount of water power now lying idle will one day be as
well occupied as that which is now a source of so much
wealth and prosperity. We have an abundant water
power still remaining, to the occupancy of which T would
invoke the attention of enterprise and capital.
The mineral resources of the State are, at this time, at-
tracting an unusual degree of attention, and the increasing
interest manifested in them by capitalists and practical
miners, with the very flattering results of their investiga-
tions, give fair promise that they may become a source of
profit and revenue. It is gratifying to know that while
the resources and attractions of our State arc more intelli-
gently regarded abroad, they arc' becoming better appre-
ciated at home. If the labor and enterprise of those who
emigrate were applied to developing home resources, the
average reward would be as rich as that obtained abroad,
and the State would be much improved in all its relations.
AtiKRTI/lTllAI- CULLEUE.
Our attention has been repeatedly called to the 1 organ-
i/ation of an agricultural college, the means for which
have been provided through the wise munificence of Con-
gress, tor education in this most important branch of
knowledge. After due reflection, and having taken time
f<r inijuiry and consultation with eminent gentlemen of
our o\vn and other States, I am prepared to commend to
your consideration a definite plan of action.
The act of Congress granting public lands for the- pur-
SECOND INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 227
po.sc will expire, by limitation, on the second day of July,
18t>7. Immediate legislation will therefore be required to
avail ourselves of its pro visions. The State has received
the script for 150,000 acres, valued now at a little less
than sixty cents an acre, and not likely to increase in
worth for a considerable time, nor is it probable that the
aggregate receipts can in any event exceed $100,000.
"With this sum it would be obviously impossible to found
an independent college, with its professors and libraries,
with its buildings and requisite apparatus, such as would
do honor to the State, and be of real benefit to the sons
of its citizens.
It would have to be supported by continual appropria-
tions, and would most certainly be an onerous burden
upon the tax-payers. From this and other considerations
I am led to the opinion that it should be connected with
some other institution. It has been suggested that if or-
ganized in union with some of our more vigorous acade-
mies, it would be brought nearer to the people, and would
thereby the better command public confidence. But
even if there were no danger that contending interests of
the many schools of this grade might prejudice such de-
sign, however well executed, the terms of the act itself
would seem to settle this point. Its purpose, as defined in
so many words, is to establish "a college where the lead-
ing object shall be, without excluding other scientific and
classical studies, and including military tactics, to teach
such branches of learning as are related to agriculture,
the mechanical arts/' etc., etc.
The offer of Congress having been accepted by the
legislature, its intention must be carried out in spirit and
letter. As a <-<Jl<'</e, then, either on an independent foun-
dation or in connection with another, we must accept the
offer.
As to ir/iH-li college, there can fortunately be no qucs-
228 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
tion, since we have but one, deservedly the pride of New
Hampshire, both in its past renown and its present excel-
lent and energetic management. Last year an offer of
additional funds was before us, that made by the late
lamented Hon. David Culver. But the will by which the
irenerous donor desired to have his intentions carried out
o
is in litigation : and in any event the sum realized from
it will be less than was at first supposed. If, however, the
State, disregarding the provisions of that will, should not
see iit to found a college at Lyme, whatever benefit is de-
rived from the bequest will revert to Dartmouth College
for the purpose of establishing an agricultural department
there. Uniting this possible advantage with others which
are obvious, we have a strong argument in favor of estab-
O O
lishing the institution at Dartmouth. Distinguished pro-
fessors, extensive cabinets of mineralogy and geology,
chemical and philosophical laboratories and apparatus,
such as could not be acquired without much time and
more than double the amount at our disposal, are already
there.
It has been said that farmers will not send their sons to
the college, where they may be subjected to unfavorable
comparisons with the students in the classical departments ;
but the experience of the medical and scientific schools
is a sufficient reply to this : and I am persuaded that it
would have the happiest effect in endearing that whole
institution to the hearts of the people, infusing the vigor
and life-blood of the sons of the hills into its ancient
veins, while from it in return something of the learning
and grace of the schools will be carried into the homes of
the farmers and mechanics of the State.
I regard it as very important that we should have a
board of agriculture organized for the purpose of direct-
ing and encouraging agricultural enterprise in the State,
and to gather up and preserve the recorded experience
SECOND INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 229
of our fanners. The trustees of the agricultural college
might constitute such a board, with a secretary elected by
themselves, to whose hands might be assigned the actual
work of gathering such experience, in suitable form, for
publication. The appointment of t\vo professors in this
department with those connected with the present college,
would be sufficient. These should be practical as well as
theoretical agriculturists ; and it should be their duty not
only to direct the mode of instruction in school, but they
should also be required to examine the condition of agri-
culture in the State during the recess, and record the re-
o
suit of their observations, and to deliver lectures upon
agriculture and mechanic arts in various sections of the
State. In this way the agricultural resources and modes
of farming of every county may be laid, from time to time,
before our people for their instruction and guidance.
The agricultural term could well commence in October
and end in May, so that the students, during the summer,
could carry into practical effect upon farms at home the
theories they had acquired at school.
A model or experimental farm, large enough to carry
out in full the process of scientific theory, would embrace
of necessity such a wide range of subjects, and involve so
large an annual expenditure, that I do not now deem its
purchase advisable. Several acres, however, for trial and
purposes of illustration, for the propagation of the vari-
ous grasses, and for proper instruction in the botanical
branches, would be desirable, and might be rendered self-
supporting. The trustees of Dartmouth College have no
desire that such disposition be made of the national
grant, unless it shall seem to the legislature to be condu-
cive to the highest interests of all concerned : but if suel;
a conclusion can be reached, it is believed that arrange-
ments can be perfected which will not only prove en-
tirelv satisfactory, but will relieve the State of all expense
on account of an agricultural department.
230 LIFE OF FREDERICK .SMYTH.
An outline of a probable arrangement, prepared at my
su^irestion, will be submitted to vour consideration in due
CO
season, as a basis for legislative deliberation and action;
and I can but believe that some such plan will commend
itself to your wisdom. I am satisfied that in this way
srientific agriculture can be instilled into the minds of our
vouth and spread abroad among the people; and that at
the same time those admirable rules of farming which
have been derived from long experience may be definitely
laid down, and connected with the results of scientific re-
search, for the mutual benefit of the practical workman
and scientific explorer.
EDUCATION.
There is no subject which more deeply concerns the
\velfare of the State than that of the means by which the
children of the people are to be educated. With that wis-
dom which distinguished them in other matters, the
founders of the commonwealth gave deserved prominence
to this topic. Xot content to leave it to the exigencies of
future legislation, they took care to insert the idea in the
fundamental law. After recognizing the fact that " knowl-
edge and learning are essential to the preservation of a
free government,'' they say, "It shall be the duty of legis-
lators and magistrates in all future periods of this (-irovern-
meiit. to cherish the interests of literature and the sciences
and all seminaries and public schools: to encourage pub-
lic and private institutions, by rewards and immunities,
for the promotion of agriculture', arts, sciences," etc.
While I trust that we need no prompting as to the
nature and extent of our obligations in this respect, it is
well 1o recur to this very decided opinion of the fathers,
thus placed on record in the most solemn and formal
manner.
The withdrawal <>f the literary fund, heretofore derived
from the taxation of the State banks, and now lost in con-
SECOND IXAUtiTKAL ADDRESS. 231
sequence of their conversion into national banking insti-
tutions, renders some legislation necessary to supply the
deficiency thus created.
The great advance in prices has likewise had its detri-
mental effect upon our schools, and I submit to your con-
sideration whether the tax provided for in chapter ~(\ of
the Compiled Statutes should not be increased.
The system of county school commissioners, whatever
may have been its former efficiency, seems to have out-
lived its usefulness, and ought to be superseded by some-
thing more vital and efficient. The board of education
occupies a position of great importance, but recent legis-
lation seems to have been based upon the idea that the
work of the county commissioners is of little practical
value, and would not justify great expenditure. Hither
this tic-Id should be occupied by some more- active and
energetic agency, sustained by wise laws, or more life and
usefulness should be infused into the old system.
HANKS.
The conversion of our banks of discount into national
banking associations removes ihem beyond the control of
State legislation. Some provision is required, however,
in regard to the taxation of the stock, to carry out the
provision of the act of Congress upon that subject.
\Vehavc >[\\\ remaining within the State twenty-nine
>a\in<i*s banks, whose aggregate deposits amount to nearly
eight millions of dollars, and over these the supervision
of the bank commissioners should be continued. Tliev
are all believed to be in a sound and healthy condition,
and to enjoy a high degree of public confidence. I
am not aware that anv depositor in the savings h;mks
of this State has ever experienced a loss through the mis-
management or dishonesty of any officer of these institu-
tions. It is difficult to conceive of a higher compliment
232 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
that could be paid them. Xo new legislation in regard
to them is required.
STATE LIBRARY.
There is necessity for the adoption of some further
measures for the care and preservation of the State
library. Its value has been very much impaired by un-
guarded and indiscriminate access to its contents, and the
loaning of books without proper security for their return.
In consequence, many volumes have not been returned,
and probably never will be. The adoption of some suit-
able system would remedy this evil, and preserve, in the
commodious rooms now provided for it, this valuable
property to the State. The librarian should be made
personally responsible for every book under his care, and
no volume should be allowed to be removed from the
Capitol.
PROVINCIAL RECORDS.
I deem it my duty to direct your attention to the present
condition of our provincial records for the period between
1680, when Xew Hampshire became a separate royal
Province, to the year 177-"), when her people adopted a
State government.
These records are of great importance. Among other
things they contain a large portion of the town grants,
the provincial laws, and all measures taken by the people
of New Hampshire in the prosecution of the French and
Indian wars. Yet, valuable as they are. they have never
been put in a condition to render them useful, or insure
their preservation. A part of them are in bound volume-
and a part upon loose sheets, and they are all in manu-
script, much of which it is difficult to decipher. Thev
are greatly scattered, also, sonic portions lcinu - found
in the otHce of the secretary of the state, some in tin-
archives of the Historical Society, and other parts amonir
SECOND INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 233
the court papers in ditto rent counties and elsewhere. The
work of arranging and indexing these, commenced some
years ago by the late John Farmer, Ksq.. at the instance
of the legislature, should be continued: and when prop-
erly prepared, they should be printed, and thus rendered
of easy access.
An examination of the last two volumes of the New
Hampshire Historical Society's collections, the expense of
which was borne in part by appropriation made by former
legislatures, will show the desirableness and importance
of the work proposed, containing as they do the rec-
ords of the Committee of Safety, during the whole
period of the Revolution, and provincial records, court
papers, and the Province Laws from 1680 to 1602.
Much credit is due to the officers of the society, and
especially to its corresponding secretary, the Kev. Dr.
Nathaniel Bouton, for the patient labor gratuitously be-
stowed on this valuable work. In prosecuting to com-
pletion the enterprise thus auspiciously commenced, Xew
Hampshire would but be following the example already
set her by other States.
REVISION OF THE STATUTES.
In compliance with a resolution of the last session of'
the legislature, a commission, consisting of ex-Judges
Bell, Fowler, and Sawyer, has been appointed to codify
and revise the statutes, and is now engaged in its arduous
and responsible work. It will be necessary for the legis-
lature to authorize the commission to print their report,
when completed, in order that it may be considered ami
acted upon at the next session.
DKiEST uK NEW HAMPSHIRE LAW KEIMKTS.
r>y a resolution of the last legislature, the governor
was authorized to contract with Hon. C. K. Morrison for
three hundred copies of his" Digest of the Xew Hampshire
234 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
Law Reports " for the use of the State. I have received
from Mr. Morrison a proposition to furnish the requisite
number for 7.50 a volume, which, at the present cost of
paper and printing, I have no doubt is a reasonable price;
but, as it seemed to exceed the expectation, and as no
specific appropriation was made for that purpose, I have
thought proper to delay the purchase, for your further
consideration.
XAVIOABLE WATERS.
Complaint is made, from sources worthy of attention^
that the navigable waters of Lake \Viunipiseogee are
unwarrantably interfered with by persons or corporations
of another jurisdiction, to the serious detriment of Xew
Hampshire interests and industry.
It cannot be supposed that it was ever the intention of
the legislature to place any portion of the navigable
waters of the State under the control of foreign corpora-
tions, for the sole benefit of interests within another State :
and if, by any inadvertence, or under cover of other osten-
sible purpose, such powers have been sought and granted,
it becomes at once the duty of the legislature to resume
and exercise its full power over the whole subject. Many
of our most valuable industries are dependent upon the
waters of the lake for successl ill prosecution. I need not
argue to you the important nature of this subject, nor the
elements of wealth and power involved in its considera-
tion : but you will readily see that whatever privileges of
this kind belong to us should be fostered and watched
with jealous care. \Vhatever right.- may be granted to
foreign parties to build artificial structures at the outlet
of the lake, they should not be allowed to interfere with
the development of our internal resources. I trust, there-
tore, that you will give an early hearing, through the
appropriate committee, upon thi> subject, and, if it shall
appear that these complaints are well founded, that you
SECOND INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 235
will apply at once such effectual remedy as may be in
your power.
The growing importance of the waters of the lake for
navigable purposes is rendered more and more manifest
each succeeding year, while the constantly swelling tide
of summer travel which annually Hoods the wild and ro-
mantic regions of northern Xew Hampshire, augmenting
its wealth and stimulating its industries, should induce us
to carefully guard and retain under our absolute control
this not only important link in the thoroughfare by which
that section may lie reached, but also most attractive fea-
ture in that incomparable scenery which has given to our
State the appellation of the Switzerland of America.
At the same time that your action guards the valuable,
privileges along the rivers which drain this lake, privi-
leges unsurpassed on any similar length of river, it will
preserve the best features of our landscape in their primi-
tive beauty. I am not indifferent to the importance of
proper encouragement to the investment of foreign capi-
tal within our borders, when it is to be employed in the
development of our own industry, and would favor and
invite such enterprises by the most liberal legislation : but
when the natural powers we have are turned against us,
and the rights granted by a Xew Hampshire legislature
are used to take power out of the State, and absolutely
to prevent the use and improvement of our streams by
our own citizens, it is time to examine the subject with
car*. 1 , and to act with wisdom.
RAILROADS.
It has become the settled policy of the State to encour-
age the construction of railroads by all reasonable grants,
with the belief that the franchise thus bestowed is a direct
public benefit. That frequent and easy intercourse facil-
itates business and develops natural resources, is a fact too
236 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
evident to need argument. It is true that many of the
lines of road huilt in Xew Hampshire were constructed
at a serious loss to the original stockholders, the prin-
ciples on which such roads could be safely built not hav-
ing been fully developed. But individual loss has been
public gain, and facilities for travel and attainable mar-
kets more than compensated for these losses. The
result has, therefore, justified the wisdom of past legisla-
tures; and they have not only granted extensive privi-
leges to parties desiring to build, but have gone much
farther, in allowing the lease or purchase of such lines as
could be run with greater economy under one manage-
ment. AYliile the theory upon which this has been done
is unquestionably correct, it should be ascertained whether
the argument bv which such concessions were urged has
O j O
been carried to its logical conclusion.
ruder consolidated management the stockholders ought
to receive better returns, and the public be accommo-
dated at a lower rate. Competition, which is a natural
safeguard of the public interest and convenience, has been
destroyed, and the people have no remedy except in the
honor of the parties to whom you have granted rights of
corporation, with the express understanding that they
were never to be exercised adversely to the public wel-
fare, or in that power which remains to you, as represent-
atives of tin- people. I am sure it will be your pleasure,
as it is manifestly your duty, to carefully consider all
alleged infractions of public rights by these, or other cor-
porate powers, and apply such judicious remedies as jus-
tice may require.
STATE CHARITIES.
Tlie appropriations for the support of beneficiaries
from this State at the Perkins Institution for the Blind
at South Boston, the Massachusetts School for Idiotic
SECOND INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 237
and Feeble Minded Persons, and the Asylum tor the
Deaf and Dumb, at Hartford, have been exhausted. I
regret to say that I have been compelled to deny applica-
tions which had good claim to a favorable answer, on ac-
count of the insufficiency of the sum appropriated. The
State will not fail to recognize the claim of these unfor-
tunate classes upon her care and sympathy, and you will,
f am persuaded, readily provide whatever may be re-
quired. The institutions named are among the best in the
world, and it is fortunate that their charitable doors are
so readily thrown open at our call.
ASYLUM FOR THE INSANE.
From personal visits to this institution, and from infor-
mation obtained of the excellent superintendent and faith-
ful trustees, I am confident that it continues in a most
satisfactory condition. The generous appropriations here-
tofore made in its behalf have proved judicious and pro-
ductive of great good. Xo unfortunate class of the
community appeal more strongly to our sympathy and
generosity than the insane. The action of the State, in
establishing and sustaining the asylum, has not only met
the general approbation of the people, but lias been nobly
seconded, from time to time, by benevolent individuals.
During the year the late Moody Kent, Esq., lias left to
the asylum a most munificent legacy, estimated at about
140,000. The income of this large sum will afford the
trustees ample means for supplying the institution with
many improvements and specific curative appliances long
needed. The asylum has now accommodations for 218
patients, while on the first of May last it contained 23M.
and is constantly receiving additional applications for ad-
mission. An early enlargement of the institution will be
required to meet the growing demand for its benefits.
238 LIFE OF FKEDERICK SMYTH.
HOUSE OF REFORMATION.
I regret to inform you that the career of prosperity
attending this institution from its establishment, has been
interrupted during the past winter by the partial destruc-
tion by tire of the substantial building erected for it, and
the total destruction of the " Stark House," upon the
same premises, also the property of the State. The trus-
tees, however, had wisely effected liberal insurance upon
the property, and the State has been saved from any con-
siderable loss. The building was fortunately as nearly
fire-proof as possible with the sum expended in its con-
struction, and was consequently not a total loss, the dam-
age being something less than the amount of insurance,
as would seem from the fact that the companies by whom
it was insured have contracted tor rebuilding, free from
expense to the State, rather than pay the 20,000 in-
surance claimed by the trustees. The work is now in
progress and nearly completed, under the superintendence
of the insuranee companies. The pecuniary loss to the
State will, therefore, be limited to the damage to personal
property, and the increased expense in maintaining and
providing for the comfort and security of the inmates, who
were thus in mid-winter driven from their comfortable
home to such quarters as the trustees were able to extem-
porize for them. The report of the trustees, which will
be before you, will fully acquaint you with its wants and
necessities, tor which I trust prompt provision will be
made.
This institution lias already been of inestimable service
to the State, gathering with a kindly hand, tempered with
just rotraint, those who knew no parental care, and the
still more unfortunate who follow parental footsteps in an
infamous career of crime. The recent troubles of our
country have increased the number of these children of
neirlcct and misfortune, so that the dutv at first under-
SECOND INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 23!)
taken by the State has rather increased than diminished.
It is therefore to he hoped that the torch of the incendi-
ary will not be allowed to long cripple or retard our
efforts in this direction.
STATE-PRISON.
The report of the warden of the state-prison, soon to
be laid before you, gives a statement of the financial
standing and general condition of that institution, which
is mainly satisfactory, although there are some serious
embarrassments connected with it, for which the warden
cannot he held responsible, and over which he has no
control.
The increased cost of maintaining the prison during the
past few years has not been met by corresponding remu-
neration from the labor of the convicts, owing to the fact
that most of them are employed under a contract made
four years since, and which has one year more to run.
The profit derived by the State from the labor of that por-
tion of the convicts employed by the warden the past
year on prison work, is from fifty to seventy per cent
above that of the labor hired out under the contract.
Notwithstanding these disadvantages, it will be seen from
the report that the prison has been self-sustaining, and
the State is not called upon for any appropriation in its
behalf.
Your attention is called to the fact that the prison vard
is unnecessarily incumbered by lumber and other mate-
rials stored within the walls, adding to the danger of tin-
am! giving facilities for escape of convicts. Although the 1
contractor has a right, under his agreement, to thus
occupy a space within the prison indosure, it ought not
to be so construed as to defeat the obvious purposes of the
prison. As, under the circumstances, the executive has
no power to interfere, I call your attention to the subject
as requiring investigation.
240 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
Aii act of the last legislature authorized the appoint-
ment of an agent, who should have the care of discharged
convicts, so far as any assistance or advice might be re-
quired in their destitute condition. That duty, however,
has been satisfactorily performed by the warden and other
officers of the prison, and I have not found it necessary
to make the appointment contemplated. Indeed, the offi-
cers of the prison, when seconded in their efforts by the
executive, can, I am persuaded, exercise a better influence
over the discharged convicts than a special agent, and
with no additional expense to the State. The increase of
paid agents in any of the State departments should be
avoided, unless required from urgent necessity.
It is a proper subject of inquiry for you to consider, as
to whether there may not be improved modes of discipline
and measures of a reformatory nature, which can be adopted
in our prison. It should also be a duty to impress upon
every good citizen that the most liberal encouragement
should be given to those discharged convicts who mani-
fest any disposition to pursue an honest calling. Disgrace,
real or fancied, has driven many a man to desperate crime,
and the utter impossibility of getting honest employment
would of course keep our prisons filled. The number of
prisoners in the institution May 1 was 101.
The present warden seems to have labored zealously
and successfully in his position for the best interests of
the State and the welfare of those under his responsible
charge.
RIVER FISHERIES.
F am happy to inform you that in response to repeated
and urgent appeals, the legislature of Massachusetts, at its
recent session, enacted a law providing for the construc-
tion of suitable fish-ways at Lowell and Lawrence, by
which means it is believed that the former supply of shad
and salmon in Mcrrimack river mav ultimately be restored.
SECOND INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 241
The provisions of the act sire liberal and ample, and, if the
matter is placed in the hands of commissioners of that
State who are competent for the duty, and desirous of the
accomplishment of the object of the law, I cannot doubt
that complete success will result from the experiment.
It will be important, however, to continue the matter in
the hands of competent commissioners upon our part, to
counteract the adverse influences that may be expected to
operate against the enterprise.
PUBLIC LANDS.
1 deem it important that some action should be taken
with reference to an exploration and survey of the public
lands in the northern part of the State, said to consist ot
about eighty thousand acres. The records of the State,
however, furnish little information concerning the precise
nature or extent of the property, and it is said to be sub-
ject to frequent depredations and trespass, which constantly
impair its value.
It would seem to be the true policy in regard to this
unproductive property to open it at once for settlement,
by the construction of highways or other feasible modes,
and to bring it under the healthful influences of private
enterprise. Its extent, character, and value 1 should at
least be ascertained, so that the interests of the State in
the matter shall clearly be made to appear. Some of these
lands are said to be valuable for agricultural purposes, and
others are known to have extensive tracts of timber.
KKTURNKD VOLUNTKKRS.
Since your last adjournment the Xew Hampshire troops
in the service of the Tnited States have all been mustered
out, and our fellow-citizens, our friends and associates,
who sprang to arms at the call of the country, and who
survived the dread ordeal of battle, and the more fatal
16
242 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
dangers of the camp, have returned quietly to their ac-
customed pursuits, and have been joyfully welcomed in a
thousand happy homes. It is a matter of congratulation
and surprise that soldierly qualities, unsurpassed in his-
tory, were so readily assumed and so easily laid aside.
In other countries the disbanding of great armies has been
followed often by scenes of violence and disorder; here,
on the contrary, all is peace and harmony in all the towns
and villages of our industrious commonwealth. The sol-
dier is only too glad to resume those habits of steady
application and attention to business which have enabled
New Hampshire to maintain a credit unimpaired, and a
prosperity second to none among the States of the Union.
Such facts are more eloquent and convincing arguments
in favor of our institutions than can be conveyed by any
power of speech, and they sho\v that the true safely of a
nation lies in the virtue and intelligence of its people.
The debt we owe the brave men who have borne our
flag and vindicated our cause before the world can never
be repaid, but at least we should ever honor those who
remain, and sacredly cherish the memory of the heroic
dead.
1 cannot refrain from renewing the suggestion made
on a former occasion, that some provision should be made
by the State for the support of those who were entirelv
disabled in the service, or have since become so bv reason
of wounds or exposure, beyond the amount paid by the
General Government. That such men. faithful through
wounds and sickness, to the very door of death, should be
now allowed tn drag out the (Jays that remain to them in
beggary or pauperism, or that they should be made to feel
that their sacrifices are counted of' no worth, is a flagrant
injustice, and a disgrace which I am sure Xew Hampshire
<-an never permit . The < ieneral Government has provided
for the establishment of a national asvlnm for the benefit of
SECOND INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 243
the totally disabled of these most worthy but unfortunate
heroes ; but until this institution shall be organized and
ready to impart its benefits, some temporary provision
must be made by the State for their comfort and support.
There is reason to hope that some part of the generous
munificence of the Government may be so dispensed as to
reach a portion of this class in their own homes, and by
their o\vn firesides.
Provision for the preservation of the discharge papers
and other documents issued to the soldiers by the Govern-
ment, is a duty which ought no longer to be disregarded.
These papers may become of great value to soldiers and
their heirs. This may be done by the establishment of a
registry for the record of all such documents, certified
copies of which should be made legal evidence in all cases
of the loss of the original ; or it may be made the duty
of some State officer to receive, record, and preserve in
his office, all documents of this character which may be
presented to him for that purpose.
I commend this subject to your consideration, and trust
some method may be devised without delay, which will
answer this important purpose.
BATTLE-FLAGS.
On the return of peace, with its new responsibilities,
those emblems of American nationality under which our
soldiers fought their way to victory, and beneath whose
folds they died, that our country might live, have come
back to us. The regimental flags of Xe\v Hampshire
have all been gathered together the memorials of the
valor and devotion of her sons. What a tale they could
tell of heroic patriotism, of patience and courage, of agony
and distress. Silent witnesses of that strife which ended
in glory for the Republic, they come now to remind us of
our dutv as citixx'ns of that countrv for which our dearest
244 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
blood has been shed. They call upon us to be true to
those great principles of humanity which made all men
equal on the battle-fields of freedom. They call upon us
to be devoted to those great doctrines of free government
which can alone elevate mankind to the standard of a
Christian commonwealth. They call upon us to remember
the great free rallying cry of the war, now that the tempt-
ing and enervating hours of peace are upon us. The les-
sons which they teach may never be forgotten, and, as
they are assigned each its honorable place in our Capitol,
may their presence warm our hearts to their highest en-
deavors, and stimulate us to the unflinching performance
of the high duty which yet lies before us.
DESERTERS.
By an act of Congress, approved March 3, 1865, all
deserters from the military and naval service, and all per-
sons who voluntarily leave the jurisdiction of the United
States to avoid a draft into such service, are punished by
forfeiture of the rights of citizenship. As questions have
arisen in regard to the effect of this act upon the exercise
of the right of suffrage by deserters, I deem it important
that you should remove such doubt by appropriate legis-
lation.
The duties of the citizen and of the Government are
reciprocal equal rights, protection in the legitimate pur-
suits of lite, a just and reasonable freedom at home, and
immunity from injury or insult abroad, are among the
benefits which a citizen of the United States expects to
receive from his Government; but he owes, in return, a
sacred duty in its defense, alike against internal traitors
or foreign toes: and if, in the hour when his services are
most needed, lie takes shelter under a foreign flag, and
basely flees from the call of duty, who can say that he has
not violated the contract, and has no longer a claim to
SECOND INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 245
exercise the rights of citizenship or of suffrage ? Whether
such desertion took place before or after enrollment, it
matters little; the intent was the same, and the crime to
be equally condemned.
Hitherto the course of our governing machinery has
been so even and free from apparent dangers, that we had
almost forgotten that " eternal vigilance is the price of
liberty." Believing that we cannot too carefully guard
our institutions from the influence of those who have
once conspired against them, and that the purity of the
ballot cannot be too jealously preserved, I commend to
your consideration the question whether those deserters
who have returned to their homes since the war closed,
and those who came back under the conditions of the
President's proclamation, issued in pursuance of the act of
March 3, 1865, and so avoided the penalty of the law,
should not still be treated as aliens of the State to which
they proved false in the time of trial. The great majority
of the people of IS T ew Hampshire have not sought to
escape the responsibilities of citizenship, but have borne
arms and taxation with cheerfulness in defense of the
rights which they hold dear. With what shadow of jus-
tice, then, can those who fled, both from taxation and
danger, come back to an equal share in those blessings
which the self-denial and endurance of others have pre-
served ?
MILITIA.
The military organization provided for by the act of
1862, as modified by the act of 1865, has been nearly com-
pleted during the year, and will soon be tilled to the
standard required, namely, thirty companies, comprising
fifteen hundred men.
Most of the companies have been uniformed, armed,
and equipped. The arms have been borrowed of the
General Government, and the uniforms (except the caps)
246 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
obtained from the same source, to be settled for by an
offset of suspended claims against the Government, when
allowed. In some sections of the State volunteering has
not been as active as was desirable, and several counties
are now unrepresented in the organization. I felt a great
reluctance, however, to resorting to a draft, as authorized
by the act, which was not only repugnant to the general
sentiment and feelings of the community in time of peace,
but hardly calculated, if resorted to, to promote the effi-
ciency of a system enforced by compulsion. I therefore
accepted of companies volunteering in some counties in
excess of their quota, to supply the deficiency existing in
others, as was authorized by the law.
The companies which have been organized are mainly
composed of returned soldiers, and principally officered by
them ; and though but recently called into existence, they
possess but few, if any, of the characteristics of " raw
militia ; " but if unforeseen events should call them into
service, they will prove themselves the brave and trained
veterans they really are.
Some additional legislation will be required to simplify
the present militia laws, and for the protection and preser-
vation of the uniforms and other property of the State in
possession of the companies.
The report of the adjutant-general will be found to be
a document of much interest, giving the minute details of
all the affairs of this department.
CONCLUSION.
I cannot dose without congratulating you that the great
question of our country's unity and territorial integrity is
finally and irreversibly decreed in behalf of the continued
supremacy of our flag, and that the great law of universal
liberty, which was never without a place in the American
heart, though hitherto an exile from the statutes of the
SECOND INAUGURAL ADDRESS. 247
country, has been incorporated into our national consti-
tution, and interwoven with the laws of the land. An
achievement so great, so grand, so glorious, so vital to
ourselves, to posterity and mankind, wrung from the face
of doubt and death by the invincible will, courage, and
power of our countrymen, cannot fail to till our hearts
with devout thankfulness to Him who holds the destinies
of nations in His hand and has given us the victory. That
the progress toward a restored and harmonious country
should be unattended by grave difficulties, was not ex-
pected ; that loyal men should ditter upon the details by
which desired results were to be obtained, was unavoid-
able; and the earnestness with which conflicting views have
been asserted could not well have been less forcible, when
all the circumstances of our great contest are considered.
If our principles are true, they will bear discussion and
opposition ; if not, they deserve to fall. I am sure vou
will agree with me that there can be no lasting settlement
of the questions now pending before tin 1 national councils,
except upon the broad platform of impartial and universal
justice. Let us hope that whatever remains to be done to
give solidity and harmony to national unity, will be wisely
and speedily accomplished.
Senators and representatives, let us now earnestly apply
ourselves to the task imposed on .us by the people of our
noble State, whose future is so full of hope, relying for
wisdom and strength on the Supreme Ruler of all, to
whom we have just appealed.
CHAPTER XXL
THE PRESENT, THE FUTURE, AND THE PAST.
AFTER the inauguration ceremonies at the State House,
a banquet was given at the Eagle Hotel by the governor
to officers of the State government and invited guests.
At the close, he addressed a few words of welcome to
gentlemen from abroad, alluding to the ties of interest
and tradition which bind this State to the good old com-
monwealth of the Puritans, as well as to the land of Allen
and Warner, of Collamer and Foot. He said that while
this once ma} r have been a good State to emigrate from,
he was sure it was now " a goodly land to return to, to live
in, and to die in.'' He was followed by Governor Bul-
lock, of Massachusetts, and Governor Dillingham, of
Vermont.
The military escort was remarkably soldier-like and
imposing. In the ranks were many war veterans, who
were pleased to aid in honoring one who hud been their
friend when they were enduring the hardships of the
field and the hospital. After the performance of their
escort duty, they were reviewed by Governor Smyth and
his suite from the balcony of the Eagle Hotel. The
troops were then massed before the balcony, and, by re-
quest of the governor, were briefly but eloquently ad-
dressed by President Smith, of Dartmouth College.
The message which Governor Smyth had delivered was
generally commended by the press of Xew Hampshire
and the adjacent States, and it received the approval of
many distinguished persons. Chief Justice Chase, who
had, when secretary of the treasury, paid great attention
to taxation and national indebtedness, wrote the following
PRESENT, FUTURE, AND PAST. 249
note, which was a source of peculiar gratification, not less
from the high position of the writer than from its very
cordial tone.
SUPREME COURT OK THE U. S.,
WASHINGTON, June 20, 1866.
To His EXCELLENCY FREDERICK SMYTH:
My Dear Governor : I thank you for sending me a copy
of your message. It gave me great pleasure, as a son of
jSTew Hampshire, to read your clear and interesting ac-
count of her condition, resources, and generous patri-
otism.
I was particularly pleased by your protest against the
new scheme of perpetual and untaxed debt. You may
readily imagine that after all my labors, and with so
great success, to establish the principle of controllability
of the public debt by making it payable, the six per
cent at any time after five and within twenty years, and
the five per cent at any time after ten and within forty
years, it was very painful to me to see a proposition for a
loan not refundable at all till after /A/V/y years. I can
understand an argument for not taxing a debt which the
creditor may take up after five or ten years, for I can
see that the country may save more in interest than it will
lose in taxes; but f cannot imagine an honest argument
for a debt for thirty years, and exempted from bearing
burdens to which other property may be subjected. 1 got
money, and all that was needed, in the worst times, on
short, controllable loans, subject to national taxation.
Surely, there is no reason now to depart from the plan of
5-20 six per rents or 10-40 five per cents, when there is
now no money to be borrowed, but only floating debt to
be funded.
Very faithfully yours,
SALMI >X P. CHASE.
250 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
One of the earliest acts of the legislature this year was
in connection with the fourteenth amendment to the con-
stitution, concerning which Governor Smyth, in his mes-
sage of June 21. transmitting it, said : " As Xew Hamp-
shire early and nohly responded to the call of war, I trust
she will promptly and unanimously ratify this great re-
quirement of peace."
Governor Smyth having in his message called attention
to the scattered condition of the provincial records, and
recommended that some provision he made for their pre-
servation, arrangement, and indexing, the legislature au-
thorized him to have it done. He appointed the Rev.
Dr. Nathaniel Bouton, secretary of the Xew Hampshire
Historical Society, as State historian. That gentleman,
though venerable in years, yet with most commendable
diligence and zeal, entered upon his work, and was enabled
to complete it in a manner in every way creditable to
himself and to the State : and soon after this crowning
labor of his life he died, full of years and of honors. The
following note from him expresses his appreciation of the
interest of Governor Smyth in the work.
COXCOKD, August 01, 1877.
1 1 o x . FRED E R i c K S M Y T u , K x - ( '> o v E R x o R :
L>ir Sir: My labors as compiler and editor of the pro-
vincial and State [tapers of Xew Hampshire are now at a
close. I have been employed in the work assigned me
eleven years to this date, tpon vour otKcial recommen-
dation and under a commission bearing your signature,
the work was commenced. Your intelligent appreciation
of the proposal to publish the ancient records of the
Province and State, your earnest recommendation of the
same to the honorable legislature, and the personal en-
couragement and approval of the work which I had the
honor to receive from you, lav me under lasting obliga-
PRESENT, FUTURE, AND PAST. 251
tions of gratitude. The whole work, comprising ten vol-
umes octavo, contains a complete documentary history of
New Hampshire from its earliest settlement, 1623, to the
adoption of the State constitution, 1784. These ancient
documents and records are now secure against the
ravages of time. It will give you pleasure to know that
they have already become a standard authority for histor-
ical reference. Their value will he enhanced by age, and
as they go down to posterity, your official agency in their
publication will receive honorable acknowledgment.
You may be gratified, sir, to learn that during the en-
tire eleven years of service, I have not lost a single day
by ill health ; and I flatter myself that I may still be
spared to perform other services that will be useful to the
State and to generations to come.
I am, sir, very respectfully and gratefully,
Your obedient servant,
NATHAXIEL BOUTOX.
Before the national asylums were organized and in
working order, the governor received numerous applica-
tions for aid from disabled veterans, many of whom were
destitute of means, incapacitated for labor, and without
relatives or friends who could relieve their wants. The
following letter refers to one of these meritorious cases.
CONCORD, X. II., August :>, ls(j(>.
MAJOR-GENERAL B. F. BUTLER, LOWELL, MASS.:
M;f l)ir S''V ; Private Thomas O'Brien, a soldier in
one of our Xew Hampshire regiments, is now in this city,
totally disabled and destitute, lie has for several months
been supported by some benevolent ladies of this city at
an expense of five dollars a week, and they begin to
weary of the burden. His is the most meritorious and
deserving 1 ease that has fallen under mv observation.
252 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
It is said on good authority that Mr. O'Brien raised the
first flag over captured Richmond, being in the advance
line, and having been a sailor he was the only man pres-
ent who could climb the pole. He is a proper subject for
the Xational Asylum, and I feel anxious that he should
receive the benefits of the institution at as early a day as
possible. Can he be sent to the Massachusetts Hospital
till our asylum is in operation, or shall I assist him
here? It is a case that appeals strongly to my sympathy
and requires attention, and I would like your suggestions
in regard to it. I am
Yours very faithfully,
FREDERICK SMYTH.
Governor Smyth paid personal attention to the col-
lection of bounties which had been promised to the sol-
diers by the General Government, but which had for some
unaccountable reason often been withheld. The follow-
ing letter to the second auditor of the treasury is a
specimen of his correspondence on that subject.
COXCOHD, X. II., December 19, 1866.
Hox. E. B. FRENCH, WASHINGTON, 1>. C. :
Sir : On examining the payments that have been made
by the United States on account of bounty assigned to
the towns of this State, I rind that, with the exception of
the first installment, no bounty has been paid for the fol-
lowing classes of men : 1st. Men transferred to the navy;
2d. Men who Lave been promoted ; 3d. Men who have
been Transferred to the veteran reserve corps : 4th. Men
who have been discharged for disability or disease, al-
though contracted in the service ; ~>th. Men who were
absent sick, in the hospital, at the time their regiments
were mustered out.
Almost without exception no bounty was paid for the
above classes. In addition to those, I find many reported
PRESENT, FUTURE, AND PAST. 253
as " killed,'' " died in prison," etc., for whom no bounty
has been paid. You will remember that I left with you
on the 6th inst. the rolls of assigned bounties, on which I
have noted remarks against the names of those men for
whom I can account. A\ r ill you please to have filled out
against the names of the remainder the reason why the
bounty was not refunded to the towns ?
Very respectfully yours,
FREDERICK SMYTH.
CHAPTER XXII.
NEW HAMPSHIRE CELEBRATIONS.
Ox the Fourth of July, 1866, the inhabitants of Bakers-
ville united iu a local celebration of the anniversary of
^National Independence. An invitation to be present was
extended to Governor Smyth, who replied as follows:
WILLIAM AV. BAKER, ESQ., AND OTHERS, COMMITTEE,
MANCHESTER, X. II. :
I am in receipt of your communication of the 30th ult.,
inviting me to attend your proposed celebration on the
fourth instant. It would give me very great pleasure to
mingle with the good people of Bakersville in the demon-
strations and social festivities by which they propose to
commemorate the natal day of our cherished Republic,
which, though tried of late as by tire, still stands without
a peer in either hemisphere ; but engagements previously
made- will compel me to deny myself the great enjoyment
the occasion would undoubtedly afford. Allow me, how-
ever, to offer a sentiment at your festive board.
"Our Union: .Dedicated anew to liberty and justice,
may her future career be as brilliant and glorious as her
unexampled record of the past."
I am very sincerely your friend and fellow-citizen,
FREDERICK SMYTH.
On the same day. the Twelfth Xcvr Hampshire Volun-
teers had a reunion. Governor Smyth was invited, and
thus acknowledged the invitation :
NEW HAMPSHIRE CELEBRATIONS. 255
KXKCl TIVE 1 )K1'AUTMKXT,
CONWKO, July -5, 18G6.
COL. GEORGE I). SAVAGE, ALTON. X. II. :
My Dear Sir : I acknowledge the receipt of an invita-
tion to attend the demonstrations and festivities by which
the old veteran Twelfth New Hampshire Volunteers pro-
pose to celebrate the anniversary of our National Inde-
pendence, and at the same -time to strengthen the bonds
of brotherhood and good fellowship in the ranks of that
noble and patriotic organization by a grand encampment
and reunion.
The history of your regiment is by no means unfamiliar
to me. In defeat at Fredericksburg or in victory at
Gettysburg, it proved itself on either occasion, as on its
many other battle-fields, worthy of the noble State that
sent them forth to battle, worthy of the proud old flag
they bore, and worthy of the great and good cause which
they so nobly vindicated and upheld. In all the rough-
ness and suffering of war the Twelfth Regiment has had
its liberal share, and few. if any. can point to a prouder or
more eventful record, and 1 can but admire the sentiment
of pride in and respect for the organization which is thus
manifested by its members: and I trust you will long pre-
serve the soldierly brotherhood which seems to be cher-
ished and fostered among you. and link together with
hooks of steel the noble circle of brave and patriotic
hearts whom the fortunes of war have spared, out of vonr
once full ranks, from the carnage of the battle-field, and
the maladies of camp and hospital.
I have sincerely to regret that other engagements will
deprive me of the great pleasure it would afford me to meet
with you upon the occasion referred to. and would pro-
pose as a sentiment: "The veterans of the Twelfth New
Hampshire Volunteers." In war or peace they have alike
illustrated the nobles! Dualities and the highest attributes.
256 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
A patriotic people will ever hold their noble sacrifices in
grateful remembrance. I have the honor to be
Very respectfully yours,
FREDERICK SMYTH.
Governor Smyth attended the celebration of the anni-
versary of our National Independence in 1866 at Ports-
mouth, where unusual demonstrations were made. There
was a military escort, a parade of the fire department, a
procession of trades, representing commerce, manufac-
tures, and the mechanic arts, a balloon ascension, and a
regatta. In the course of the exercises in the Temple,
Governor Smyth, being introduced to the audience by
the mayor, said :
" It has always been my belief, Mr. President, that the
common prosperity of the whole country could be attained
in its truest manner by the greatest prosperity of indi-
viduals, communities, towns, and States. Whatever is for
the interest of one, rightly considered, should be for the
advancement of all. It is for this reason that, whenever
it has been possible, I have urged upon the people of
New Hampshire the steady development of their resources.
However jealous we may be for the national honor, and
however quickly our soldiers sprang to arms to resist un-
just encroachments, we rejoice at the national prosperity
and welfare of every southern State. To leave this gen-
eral view and make the subject personal to every citizen,
each man labors most truly for the common good when he
improves to the utmost the stewardship under his care.
Such labors should excite no inconsiderate rivalry, no
local jealousy. Nothing would rejoice me, a citizen of
Manchester, more, than to see this beautiful seaport of
New Hampshire .animated in her honorable age with some
of the enterprise and the energy of her youth. I am glad
to know that in many respects this is now the case.
And so I should rejoice to know that Dover and Concord
NEW HAMPSHIRE CELEBRATIONS. 257
and Keene and Claremont that every city and town of
the good old Granite State, the noble mother of states-
men and the home of soldiers who never surrender, was
making 1 steady and rapid progress in material prosperity
and in educated and Christian freedom. But while this is
my prayer for the towns of my native State, I have no
sympathy with that narrow vision which is confined to
the circle of the horizon which immediately surrounds
us. The true American hails everywhere in all this broad
land the token of progress, and that is the best govern-
ment which, when the eternal principles of justice are
settled, maintains the balance of conflicting interests with
even hand."
The legislature of New Hampshire had passed an act
requiring the erection of fish-ways over or through any
dam on certain rivers, when suitable fish-ways had been
erected on those rivers belcav the boundary of the State,
which fact was to be determined by the proclamation of
the governor. When Governor Smyth learned that suit-
able ways for the passage of sea fish had been constructed
at Lowell and at Lawrence, he accordingly issued his
proclamation that fish-ways must be constructed on all
darns on the Merrimack, the Pemigewasset, the Winni-
piseogee, and Baker's rivers. It was ascertained, how-
ever, that the shad were caught while attempting to ascend
the lower fish-ways in Massachusetts, whereupon Governor
Smyth addressed the following letter to Governor A. II.
Bullock, of the Bay State.
K.\ i-: r TIVK I >I:I'A KTMKNT,
CoN(Oiu>, XKW HAMPSIIIIIK.
To His EXCELLENCY A. H. BULLOCK, GOVERNOR OF MAS-
SACHUSETTS :
Sir .- Permit me to call your attention to the fact that
'.arsre numbers of shad are now beinif caught at various
258 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
points upon the Merrimack river below Lawrence, and by
such means as practically to defeat the eftbrts now being
made by the erection offish-ways at Lawrence and Lowell
to restore this species of fish to the waters of that river
in this State. It is perfectly apparent that if by means of
fish-nets and otherwise the shad ascending the river are
to be intercepted and destroyed en masse before their
arrival at the fish-ways, as from personal knowledge I am
satisfied is now being done, any eftbrts to restore them to
the waters of this State must prove futile.
You will pardon me for calling your attention to this
subject, as it is one of much public interest to our people,
and the State has already made a liberal expenditure to
secure the restoration of this valuable fish to her waters.
I indulge the hope that you will be pleased to direct the
attention of the legislature of your commonwealth now
in session to this subject, and that suitable laws will at
once be enacted to prevent the present destruction of the
shad in ascending the river, until the practicability of the
recently constructed fish-ways can be tested, and the
restoration of this tish to the upper waters of the river can
be accomplished. I cannot doubt that a provision so
reasonable, and at the same time absolutely essential to
the success of the enterprise in which several States are
now engaged, will commend itself at once to your favor
and the friendly action of a Massachusetts legislature.
1 have the honor to remain
Your excellency's obedient servant,
FREDERICK SMYTH.
This letter had immediate effect, and the following
spring the Massachusetts laws regulating the fish-ways
were fully carried out.
CHAPTER XXIII.
RECEPTION OF GENERAL SHERMAN. TEMPERANCE.
MAJOR-GENERAL SHERMAN, who was traveling in Xe\v
England, arrived at Concord on the 17th of July, 1866.
On the following morning he visited the Capitol, where
he was shown the different executive and legislative de-
partments, and inspected with interest the battle-flags.
A large concourse of ladies and gentlemen had mean-
while gathered, to whom Governor Smyth thus introduced
the hero of the " March to the Sea " :
" General Sherman, I may well esteem this a fortunate
day in which I can extend to you the hearty and the cor-
dial welcome of New Hampshire. She sent her sons to
the tented field, ready, by every sacrifice save that of
honor, to uphold the nation's cause. While she points
with pride to the sacred standards that cheered her troops
to victory and consoled them in defeat, while she regards
with more than Roman matron's pride the valor of her
sons, she has ample room to cherish for you, general, an
admiration and regard whose depth and strength is only
measured by her love of country.
" In that long and weary day when neither telegraph nor
army messengers brought us tidings from your con<[iierinu'
legions, when we saw you after that continuous campaign
which at last held Atlanta only as a starting-point for
other and more surpassing victories, believe me, sir, then-
were daily and hourly prayers that the great march might
end in victory. There were hearts here among the fast-
nesses of the granite hills, inspired to believe and to have
faith in the triumph of our cause, that heard the music of
your drums long, long before it mingled with the swell of
260 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
the Southern sea ; that saw the gleam of your bayonets ;
that were neither alarmed nor misled by the old game of
brag that consigned you and your men to the dismal
swamps which are a fit emblem of the rank depth of
secession.
' But whether we feared or believed, all rejoice to wel-
come you here to-day, to welcome you with voice, and
music, and cannon, as the man who first laid open to the
world that bald and monstrous bubble, the Southern Con-
federacy, and let all men see how wretched, how empty,
how bare and beggarly a tiling it is.
" Fellow-citizens, other generals have done much, but
General Sherman let the first glimpse of truth and broad
daylight into the region of darkness, and from that day
the victory was virtually ours. In behalf of all the men
and women and children of the Granite State, I bid the
hero of so many victorious battle-fields welcome, thrice
welcome to this capital.''
When the cheering had subsided, General Sherman
bowed his compliments and said in reply :
" Your Excellency, and Ladies and Gentlemen : Al-
though I have never been here before, I do not feel a
stranger. I see many faces that look like Americans,
and I see flags familiar to me, and therefore I do not feel
strange among you. It is one of the proudest things of our
life that we can again go anywhere we please, in any direc-
tion, and see the assemblies of good Union people. I left
St. Louis on the 4th of July. You used to call St. Louis
a rebellious town, and say it sympathized with the South.
But I assure, you that it is loyal at all events. I see
nothing there but the true Union spirit. During my jour-
Tiev to the East I have seen nothing but true Union feel-
i/ O
ing wherever ] have received ovations. At every point I
have seen manifestations which gave me great pleasure
simply because they assured me that the union of these
RECEPTION OF GENERAL SHERMAN.
States, the union of our country, is now so strong and so
firm that no human power or class of people will again
dream of disturbing it. These flags I see before me tell
a story which I could not, if I would, repeat. They all
bear ample testimony that their noble followers found with
them a great many Union men, in the country south,
through which the Union armies passed : your governor
has well said that no speaking here can do justice to the
noble deeds of our soldiers, and therefore I will close by
again saying that it gives me great pleasure to see you,
and you will ] (lease accept my sincere thanks for your
kindness."
On the next day, Wednesday, July 18, General Sher-
man witnessed the Commencement exercises at Dartmouth,
and received the degree of LL. D. After the alumni
dinner, Judge Chase, who presided, called upon Governor
Smyth, who, he said, although not a graduate, was yet a
firm friend of the College, and to his efforts were due
the association with Dartmouth of the proposed agricul-
tural college of the State.
Governor Smyth said that it was probably only his offi-
cial position which called for any speech from him. In
the presence of men distinguished for military glory and
judicial ability, he thought it almost a sacrilege for an
outsider like himself to attempt to speak. It might,
however, be a benefit sometimes to hear from outsiders.
He would therefore say a word or two.
Educated men were needed everywhere and always, and
institutions of learning must, like everything else, keep
up with the times, and he thought that Dartmouth College
ought to secure all the assistance the State could afford.
He had been talking with an old farmer about connecting
the agricultural college with Dartmouth. The farmer
said it was all nonsense : they spoiled all the l>oys who
were sent there now. Thev wouldn't do anything after
262 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
they went to college. He thought, though he did not
presume his judgment was good against that of learned
men, that our institutions might be made of a more prac-
tical character. He had thought of this as he listened to
the exercises. There ought to be themes enough in
American literature without going back to the ancients
whom nobody knew. What did he care for old Charles
VIII, was it (turning to President Smith)? [Laughter
and applause.] "Well, Henry VIII, if that is better. All
he knew about him was, that he was an old rascal. He
preferred to hear of modern things which he could un-
derstand.
His excellency closed with hearty wishes for the pros-
perity of the college faculty and alumni.
By education and tradition Governor Smyth has always
been a temperance man, and it has been a matter of much
favorable comment in the public press that he discounte-
nanced the use of alcoholic drinks in his official life. At
the State temperance convention, in 1866, at the conclu-
sion of remarks by President Smith, of Dartmouth Col-
lege, the governor, being present, was called out, and said
in substance, after thanking the audience for their hearty
welcome, and expressing his regrets that official duties
had deprived him of the pleasure of being with them
much of the day, that there could be no doubt of the im-
portance of the subject the convention had met to con-
sider, neither could there be any question in the minds of
wise and thoughtful men that a reform is now greatly
needed in our State and country in the prevalent habit
of drinking alcoholic liquors. The governor said,
" One of the greatest obstacles in the way of this reform
at the present time is. in my opinion, the habitual use of
these drinks in fashionable society, and by men high in
influence arid position. Perhaps it may not be improper
for me to state on this occasion (not in a boastful spirit,
TEMPERANCE. 263
but that my position on this question may not be misunder-
stood) that from the day in which I first assumed the
responsible position conferred upon me by the people of
Xew Hampshire, I resolved not to furnish intoxicating
liquors to my guests or friends on any occasion, public or
private, or partake myself; and when called upon, as has
often been the case, to drink at public dinners or other
occasions, in response to patriotic or friendly sentiments,
I have invariably used cold water, the best drink for a
cool head, a clear mind, and a good conscience, ever given
to man.
"Now I have many near and dear friends, men whom
I love and respect, of noble hearts and sentiments, who
see no harm in offering liquor to their guests, or in using
it themselves, as they say, moderately ; and while I do
not desire to counsel or advise any particular steps which
you should take in this convention, you will permit me
to say that nothing is to be gained by abuse of this class
of men.
" I rejoice at the restraining influences now being
brought to bear upon the young in our churches, Sabbath
schools, and public schools, by the organization of ' Cold
Water Armies,' ' Bands of Hope,' and the like. These
efforts are in the right direction, will tell most powerfully
on the future of our rising generation, and should by all
means be persisted in. I well remember and shall never
forget the teachings of my youth on the subject of tem-
perance. I was then a member of a boys' temperance
society in my native town. Although I must confess I
have not always been as consistent and as conscientious
as 1 was then, I trust and believe the influence of those
early days has not been entirely lost upon me : and I know
among my boy associates in that society not one of them
ever became a drunkard. I say, then. Take care of the
children.''
CHAPTER XXIV.
THE CITIZEN SOLDIERY.
THE reorganization of the volunteer militia of New
Hampshire was one of the most important events of the
governor's second year. General Joab X. Patterson, of
Hopkinton, was appointed colonel of the First Regiment,
and he was ordered to parade his regiment at Manchester
for a three days' encampment, beginning October 1. At
the conclusion of the review on that occasion, Governor
Smyth said:
OFFICERS AND SOLDIERS :
It is with heartfelt gratification and pride that I have
witnessed your conduct, and the splendid manner in
which you have performed your duties this day. I shall
not attempt to conceal the deep anxiety which I have
felt, that this organization, so recently called into exist-
ence, under my administration, should assume a shape
and efficiency not unworthy of the past renown and pres-
ent needs of the State.
The lessons we have all learned will, I trust, never be
forgotten, and while the supremacy of moral influence
must ever take precedence of mere brute force in the
affairs of this nation, yet events have taught us that we
can only be safe when just principles are sustained and
pushed on by organized, intelligent strength.
On this tented field (once possessed and cultivated by
the hero of Bennington, who now sleeps in yonder inclo-
sure ) our regiments drilled ere they went forth to their
first bloody baptism of war. Here, I doubt not, many of
you acquired a knowledge of those principles which after-
THE CITIZEN SOLDIERY. 26-")
ward were found of great value, and it is to be hoped that
the spirit which animated you then and increased with all
the perils and hardships you encountered, yet remains, and
is ready to he ottered, if need be, in defense of our com-
mon liberties.
Although this is a new organization, I am happy to
know it is yet largely composed of veterans, of men who
know that to be a soldier is no light thing, and that he
lias duties in time of peace no less than in time of war.
It is indeed difficult, and possibly distasteful, for the vet-
eran soldier, tried upon a hundred battle-tields, to assume
the patient duties of the drill, when the great motive
which urged him on has been removed and peace re-
stored to bless the land. But the good citizen well
knows that our liberties are worth some sacrifice, and
that every one is called on in proportion to his ability to
contribute something to the common cause. While we all
hope never to see our country engaged in war again, and
while it is most devoutly to be desired that peaceful coun-
sels shall prevail in our internal relations and in our deal-
ings with other nations, yet we must be always ready, so
that, let danger come from whatever source it may, the
sentinel may never be found sleeping upon his post.
I have said, soldiers, that after the excitements of war,
this militia system, this war in peace, may seem dull and
irksome. It otters you no high bounties, it opens no
great chances for dazzling promotion, but it gives you
what every man who loves his country will rejoice in, a
chance to do your duty. It is a common burden for the
common good, and, while it should be shared as equally
as possible by all, we should all unite to make it honored
and honorable. I would appeal to every citizen of the
State to give his moral influence and his entire co-opera-
tion to the work. What evils might have been avoided,
what useless sacrifice of precious lives spared, what
266 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
amounts of treasure saved, had we possessed a simple,
uniform, working militia system at the outbreak of the
war ! But because our experience has been dearly bought,
our knowledge acquired at a great price, we are, there-
fore, bound to make good use of it so much the more.
Veteran soldiers in arms, your conduct and appear-
ance at this encampment are such as to reflect new credit
upon your State, and to give us the hope that we shall
have and perpetually maintain a reliable system of de-
fense. You are the sword of the magistrate, which is to
give support and dignity to law, confidence and security
to government, and which is to be a terror to evil-doers
everywhere. Tins will back up and support the sturdy
moral sense of the country, give conscious safety to every
fireside, and forever prevent all further attempts for the
overthrow of our cherished institutions. Since the war,
the world has been compelled to respect our power, and
those who would gladly have been enemies are silenced.
We need only to retain our weapons, and show that we
are prepared to maintain everywhere and on all occasions
the just rights of the nation, to secure that regard which
is our due. Our enemies will yield it because they dare
not refuse, and our friends will all rejoice at that strength
which, I trust, will never be exercised save in a just
cause.
On the 3d of October, the Amoskeag Veterans, of
Mam-hester, then commanded by the veteran Colonel
Chandler E. Potter, visited Xewburyport, at the mouth
of the Merrimack. (-Jovernor Smyth, and staff, by invi-
tation, accompanied them, and Governor Bullock was
prevented by illness from accompanying the Ancient and
Honorable Artillery Company, of Boston. The two
corps were received and entertained by the Xewburyport
Veteran Artillery Company, Captain AV. E. Currier. At
a dinner Driven in the citv hall, (Governor Snivth made an
THE CITIZEN SOLDIERY. 267
interesting and impressive speech, in which lie recalled his
first visit to Xewburyport when a boy, accompanying a
relative who had brought a load of charcoal to sell. This
account of his early life, from which he had risen by his
own exertions to be the chief magistrate of the Granite
State, was received with rounds of applause.
Governor Smyth and suite passed that night at Indian
Hill Farm, and the next day, escorted by the two veteran
organizations, with their tine bands, he visited Ames-
bury, where a committee of citizens received their guests.
Marching through the principal streets, the column
halted before the residence of John G. Whittier, the
poet, and when he appeared with Governor Smyth at the
door of his cottage, he was greeted by the music and then
by the loud cheers of the soldiers and people. It was re-
freshing to see honor done to a man because in all his life
he had been manly, and not because of position, wealth,
or any of the accidents that surround men. Xoble men
were they, the poet and the governor of New Hampshire,
standing side by side, before the soldiery and citizens;
both sprung from the lowly and working class of society ;
both rising in different spheres by mental gifts and prac-
tical virtues ; both honored much for their patriotism,
love of country, and love of humanity, and both loved
and respected for social and moral qualities. From the
poet's door the procession moved to the hotel, where
[revision was made for them, and where, at the call of
the people, Governor Smyth, General Head, and Colonel
Cross made speeches. The governor, as usual, was mo^t
happy in his remarks, and on account of some allusion
to the children, after he was again in the street some
lady sent a baby to him, whose sweet face and smiling
lips he kissed, while the little fellow reciprocated the
tokens of affection.
The Second Regiment of New Hampshire Volunteers,
commanded by Colonel A. W. RoHins, went into camp
268 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
at Dover on the 4th, oth, and 6th of October. The
camp-ground was on Dover Point road, where the last old-
fashioned militia muster had been held twenty-one years
before. Governor Smyth was present on the last day of
the encampment, and at the close of the review he ad-
dressed the troops.
" Officers and soldiers," said Governor Smyth, " there
are associations connected with this place of your en-
campment which are well calculated to excite emotions
of pride and gratification in the breast of every son of
Xew Hampshire, and stimulate him to new purposes of
duty and new devotion to liberty. I cannot forget that
within sight and within cannon range of this spot was
founded the first settlement in New Hampshire, that
only a year or two subsequent to the memorable settle-
ment at Plymouth, the Hiltons and their little body of
comrades, under a charter from the Earl of Warwick,
planted at Dover Point the germs of that infant State
which has become our own proud and civilized and pros-
perous commonwealth. Among the institutions founded
in those earliest days of our colonial history was an or-
ganized militia, which was early intertwined with the
affections and pride and hopes of our fathers, and has ex-
erted a powerful influence upon the development of our
State, as well as of all others planted by the Puritan colo-
nists of Xew England. Perhaps it was not the greatest
of the institutions shaped by the wise founders of the Re-
public, but it has ever been and must always be regarded
as one of the great bulwarks of civil liberty/'
While at I>over, a social reception was given by Gov-
ernor and Mrs. Smyth at the Xew Hampshire Hotel, the
proprietor kindly putting at their disposal his own par-
lors, which were thronged during the evening by the citi-
zens of Dover, with their ladies, who were said by the
Dover Enquirer to have been " charmed with the agree-
able manners of his excellency and ladv."
CHAPTER XXV.
NATIONAL SOLDIERS' HOMES.
REFERENCE has been made in these pages to the initial
steps of Congress in establishing homes for our disabled
soldiers. Governor Smyth, one of the most active and
interested of the incorporators, was appointed by Congress
in 1866 one of the managers for six years. His associates
at that time were the President of the United States, the
secretary of war, and the chief justice ex. ofiicio, Hon. R.
J. Oglesby, of Springfield, Illinois, General B. F. Butler,
of Massachusetts, Hon. Lewis B. Gunckel, of Dayton,
Ohio, Jay Cook, of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, and Gen-
eral Martindale, of Rochester, Xew York, either of whom
had authority to grant admission to the homes on applica-
tion made in due form. On the expiration of Governor
Smyth's first term, he was reappointed in 1872. In 1878,
the House being Democratic and the Senate nearly bal-
anced, General Shields was proposed as the governor's
successor, but failed of an election. In 1880, however,
the Democracy were able to unite, and Governor Smyth,
after fourteen years of service, was superseded. IT may
be said with truth that few public' officers have brought
more zeal to the discharge of a duty which was at times
very exacting;, or attended more faithfully meetings of the
/ o ' v o
board, the only compensation for which was a conscious-
ness of duty done. In all these years there appears to
have been no reason for fault-finding, either on the part
of inmates of the homes or of the public, except such as
is incident to all such affairs, and which was always
promptly rectified. A sharp-eyed opposition has at all
events found nothing to profit by.
270 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
When the foundation of a chapel was laid at the Cen-
tral Home in Dayton, the Hon. L. B. Gunckel, local
manager, made a brief address, in concluding which he
briefly alluded to the establishment of the Xational Sol-
diers' Home at this point, and remarked that the location
here was mainly due to an eminent gentleman who was
present on the occasion, Governor Frederick Smyth, of
Xew Hampshire, whom he had the honor of introducing
to the assembly, and who would then address them. The
governor came forward to the platform, and spoke as
follows:
" Ladies and Gentlemen of Dayton, and Soldiers of the
Army of the Country : I congratulate you that by the
side of this military asylum we are to raise a building for
the worship of God. The Government of this nation,
representing the people, has provided for its disabled and
impoverished heroes the most ample and comfortable
homes. The loyal people of these United States thereby
show to the world that they will never forget their de-
fenders ; and while they care tenderly for their bodily
wants, they have not forgotten other and higher necessi-
ties of men. This little church which we quarry from
this beautiful stone and begin to build here to-day, is a
token of allegiance, a signet, as it were, of loyalty both to
the rightful authorities of the land and to the Supreme
Ruler over all. The best and truest citizen the world over,
is he who first discharges his duty to his God, and under
him to the laws of the land. Therefore I think this build-
ing we are about to raise is one of the best possible
memorials of the war which had for its object the main-
tenance of the laws and the assertion of that principle in
the charters of our civil^ liberty, that all men are created
equal. equal in the matter of right, equal in the duties
thev owe to (iod and their country.
" A memorial like this holds out no threat and conveys
no taunt to a vanquished foe ; it says as it means peace
NATIONAL SOLDIERS' HOMES. 271
to all who will have peace. But as the symbol of the
highest authority, it also proclaims a law to be obeyed.
Liberty without law is worse than worthless, for it means
the liberty of the mob and of riot, and by it the weak are
oppressed and the poor mnde poorer yet. Against the
liberty to do wrong and to take a man's labor without pay
our war was waged, and when at last we are victorious,
we send our missionaries and teachers to prove that this
was not a war for conquest or power simply, but for the
triumph of a great truth. Of this truth the church is the
best and most fitting memorial, because its teachings pro-
vide for and urge an exact justice from man to man,
tempered by mercy, forgiveness, conciliation, and peace.
"If the enmities and animosities that brought on the
contest and that have sprung from its prosecution can be
buried anywhere in this world, it ought to be at the altar,
and in the house of the Lord. I do not believe that you,
brave soldiers, have brought beneath those old scars any
feelings of enmity or of revenge toward those you have
met and fairly beaten. Such a harbored grudge might
have been expected of men in a darker age of the world,
but it is not a characteristic of the soldiers of the American
Republic.
" This house of worship may also be regarded as a
pledge that the great ideas for which the battle was fought
and the victory won, will never be given up. You. citi-
zens of Dayton, whose dear ones gave all for the cause.
and who believe in the righteousness of that cause, have
a right to demand that those sacrifices be not in vain :
that we have peace on the only possible sure basis,
that of a wise Christian equality, that of a just and tem-
perate' but N///V administration of the law of the land.
wherever the sun shines on an inch of American soil. I
know that yon, brave soldiers, will insist that the fruit>
of vour devotion and sufferings shall not be lost.
LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
" But I hope that this building also will convey to you
the idea that the four cold bare walls of an asylum is not
all that the country owes or will give to its defenders.
She recognizes, let us all hope and believe, the hand of
an All-Wise God in ever}* act of this great drama ; while
compelled to take the sword to preserve a liberty unsullied
by violence, and law made with regard to the rights of
every man, she offers to all her citizens every where a fire-
side safe from the intruding hand of violence, and a wor-
ship and a Bible free to the humblest conscience.
" Citizens of Dayton, let me bespeak your sympathy
and assistance in the objects of this little chapel. The
general feeling of the country has indeed taken the work
of the Good Samaritan from your hands in this instance,
but the worthy chaplain and \ve all will look to you for
moral aid and sympathy."
When this biographical sketch was being prepared, a
friend of Governor Smyth wrote to General Butler, of
Massachusetts, and to General Gunckel, of Ohio, who had
been associated with him on the board of directors for sol-
diers" homes, asking their opinion of his services. They
promptly replied. General B. F. Butler, in a letter dated
at Boston, said :
"_ DEAR SIR: Ex-Governor Smyth served on the board
of managers of the National Homes for Disabled Soldiers
with me for twelve years. I know T shall echo the opinion
of all his associates when I say Governor Smyth was one
of the most valuable members of the board. His accu-
rate business knowledge, and the skill and ability displayed
iy him in adjusting complicated accounts, caused the board
to put upon him more by far than his share of such work.
ITis zeal in the cause of the disabled volunteers never
flagged fora moment, and he never shirked or neglected
:; duty.
He '.va> ahvavs in favor of the strictest econoinv as
NATIONAL SOLDIERS' HOMES. 273
regards the expenditure of money, but equally an advo-
cate of everything being done fur the soldiers that would
I'onduee to their happiness and comfort. His economy
was in the method of expenditure, and not as to what
should be done for the soldiers. Xo man held a higher
place in the esteem of every member of the board than
did (-Governor Smyth, and when for political reasons he
was removed from the board, the United States and the
soldiers both met a great loss.
Yours truly,
B. F. BUTLKk.
General Le\vis B. Gunckel, of Ohio, in inclosing the
following note, said :
I am glad to hear that the biography of Governor
Smyth is to be written, for besides the gratification it will
afford his many friends and acquaintances, it can hardly
fail to interest and help grown people generally, arid to
encourage young men especially, by presenting so worthy
an example of what we Americans are proud to call a
self-made man." General Gunckel said, writing from
Dayton, Ohio :
"I first met Governor Smyth at a meeting of the board
of managers of the National Home for Disabled Volun-
teer Soldiers, at its first meeting, in May, 18(it>, and I
was then attracted by his pleasant face and frank manner,
and impressed by his quick perceptions, practical knowl-
edge, and sound judgment. And in after years I often
noticed how such members of the board as Chief Justice
Chase, Secretary Stanton. Chief Justice \Yaite, General
Butler, and General Martindale. deferred to his opinions,
and how largely they were governed by his judgment in
all matters of a practical or financial character.
1 was associated with him on committees appointed to
selei-t the site for several of the home> and purchase the
274 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
necessary grounds therefor ; and I recall with grateful
pleasure his invaluable services in that behalf. Every
one who has visited these homes recognizes the peculiar
fitness of the selections made, especially for the central
and northwestern branches ; but few people, even in Ohio
and Wisconsin, know how largely this result, as well as
O V
the saving of thousands of dollars in the purchases, was
due to the taste and judgment, the Yankee tact and
shrewdness, of Xew Hampshire's ex-governor.
"And so in the years succeeding, in the management
;and control of an institution caring for 8,000 disabled
^soldiers and expending a million and a quarter dollars
.annually, there was especial 'need of just s>.ich man ".s
Gortr/ior Xn>>/fli [the italics are Mr. Gunckel's], and I do
not exaggerate when I say that through the watchfulness
:and care, the courage and determination of Governor
iSinyth, thousands, yes, tens of thousands of dollars were
saved to the Government and people.
" But it must not be supposed from this that the gov-
ernor permitted his idea of economy to stand in the way
of liberal appropriations for the support, comfort, and
happiness of the disabled soldiers. Xo member of the
board had livelier sympathies or a more liberal hand :
but when the appropriations were made, he wanted the
money economically and honestly expended and was
indignant when lie discovered the slightest extravagance
or irregularity.
" He bad little patience with some of the governors
who attempted to make the asylums military garrisons,
governed under the articles of war and the severe dis-
cipline of the regular army. He insisted upon a kindlier
rule, and in making the several institutions homes in the
best sense of that word: and it was upon his suggestion
thsit Congress was asked to amend the original act and
did amend it. so as to change the name' asylum' into that
NATIONAL SOLDIERS' HOMES. 275
of ' home.' And because the soldiers knew him to be one
of their stanchest and best friends, he was always the
most welcome of visitors, and his appearance on the pub-
lic platform never failed to call out the loudest applause.
While he made no pretensions to oratory, he was invaria-
bly called out and compelled to speak, and, strangely
enough, his speeches were enjoyed quite as much as those
of the trained speakers from the pulpit and the bar.
" I was intimately connected with Governor Smyth in
this national board for twelve years, and learned to know
him as well as one man can know another; and although
I have, in the course of my life, chanced to know many
other public men, some of them among the most dis-
tinguished during the war period, I never knew one
purer in mind, simpler in habits, or cleaner in conscience,
than Frederick Smyth, of New Hampshire."
CHAPTER XXVI.
A THIRD TERM DECLINED. PROCLAMATION FOR FAST.
CLEMENCY.
IT had grown to be a custom in Xew Hampshire that a
<rovernor should hold his office two rears and no more,
O -
but so successful was the administration of Governor
Smyth, that, contrary to precedent, many of the most
influential and respectable journals of the State, among
which were the Xational Eagle, the Concord Statesman,
the Dover Enquirer, the Portsmouth Journal, and the
Keene Sentinel, advocated his nomination for a third
term. The governor, however, declined to be considered
a candidate, and publicly announced his determination in
the following letter, which was published in the Concord
Statesman :
CONCORD, January 1, 18G7.
To THE EDITORS OF THE STATESMAN:
Jjcar Sir? : I have noticed an article in the last issue
of your paper, favoring my election for a third term to the
office now held by me. and I have also observed that sev-
eral other Republican journals in different parts of the
State have kindly expressed the same preference. I had
supposed that my decision, early and often declared, not
again to be a candidate, was well understood by my
friends and the Republican party ; but the friendly ex-
pressions- of the same tenor from so many public journals,
with other indications, lead me to doubt whether an
expectation does not still exist in the minds of some that
I may yet reconsider my determination. In order, there-
tore, to seasonably remove any and all misapprehensions
A THIRD TERM DECLINED. 277
upon this point, I beg leave to say through your columns
that, while fully appreciating the confidence implied in the
presenting of my name for a third term, my resolution
not again to be a candidate was early and deliberately
taken, and I have since seen no reason for changing it.
Profoundly grateful to the people of New Hampshire for
the partiality which selected me, and the confidence
which has sustained me thus far in the office of chief
magistrate, I shall retire at the end of my present term
with only regret that I was not able to bring to the public
service a degree of experience and ability commensurate
with a just estimate of the importance and dignity of the
office. Trusting that upon whomsoever the choice of the
convention may fall, the nominee will receive the same
united and hearty support which has been so generously
accorded tome, I have the honor to remain, gentlemen,
Very respectfully, your obedient servant.
FREDERICK SMYTH.
The anniversary of Washington's birthday, on the 22d
of February, 1867, was celebrated at Manchester by the
Amoskeag Veterans, Colonel David Cross, with a parade,
an oration by Rev. "W. II. Thomas, and a dinner. Gov-
ernor Smyth was present at the dinner, and was called
upon to respond to the following toast :
"The governor of New Hampshire: Though only a
private in the ranks of the Veterans, he has proved him-
self worthy to be the commander-in-chief of our State."
Rising amidst applause, Governor Smyth said:
MR. COMMANDER AND VETERANS :
A certain great military commander said, that as long
as his soldiers could get a crust of black bread and a
drink of water he could hold his own against the com-
bined armies of Europe. If this is a test of a soldier's
endurance, or of a country's safety, then, judging from
278 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
these tokens, your corps is a long way from exhaustion,
and the great State of New Hampshire is safe for a long
time to come. Allow me to congratulate you on the ex-
cellence of your commissariat. Xo army was ever good
for anything without the sinews of war, and I believe
that in time of peace those sinews consist more of bread
and beef than of gunpowder. For service, give me the
men who have good stomachs. The well-fed soldier
never runs, especially just after dinner.
Mr. Commander and gentlemen of the Amoskeag Vet-
erans, these time-honored uniforms vou wear bring to
\j O
mind many glorious associations, but you will pardon me
if I refer to one somewhat personal in its nature. These
shad-bellied coats ( long may they breast the battle and
the breeze ! ) bring to mind the times when the salmon
and the shad had the right of free navigation in the
waters of Xew Hampshire, and especially at Amoskeag.
Xow we have had a little friendly contest with a sister
State to regain those rights. I congratulate you, soldiers,
on the peaceful issue of those negotiations, so that you
were not obliged to take up arms and march with colors
flying and drums beating to vindicate State rights. When
the shad and salmon get back again into our waters, as
there is a fair prospect that they will, it will be enough to
make every veteran young again.
Pardon me, Mr. Commander, if I seem to unbend a
little from the dignity of a chief magistrate, or to relax in
that strict discipline which should characterize a com-
mander-in-chief. AVhile so many of your previous anni-
versaries have been darkened by the clouds of war, we
can surely indulge in a little friendly and hopeful merri-
ment to-day. \Ve have learned, I think, to appreciate and
respect that spirit which in time of peace recognizes the
principle of force in a government, and seeks to keep it
alive and active. But while we rejoice that you have
PROCLAMATION FOR FAST. 279
revived and seek by appropriate means to preserve that
happy union of military and civil strength bequeathed us
by Washington, let us hope that each returning anni-
versary will find peace established on a more just and a
firmer basis, and the States in a more equal and fraternal
union.
There are those who sometimes sneer at holiday sol-
diers. I cannot join in that feeling, and I sincerely hope
that in our day there may not be occasion for any other.
Should it unfortunately be otherwise, then you will
demonstrate, as you have done before by many a gallant
soldier from your ranks, that on the old altar burns still
the sacred fires kindled by the hand of Washington.
The official proclamation by Governor Smyth, appoint-
ing a Fast Day, was issued in accordance with time-
honored custom. It was a subject of comment that it
was signed by the governor and the governor-elect, Gen-
eral Ilarriman, the secretary of state, having been elected
as Governor Smyth's successor.
A PROCLAMATION
FOR A DAY OF FASTINK, HUMILIATION, AND PRAYER.
I do, with advice and consent of the council, hereby
appoint Thursday, the fourth day of April next, to be ob-
served throughout this State as a day of fasting, humil-
iation, and prayer.
I earnestly recommend that upon that day all the
people, not prevented by duties of paramount necessity,
lay aside the usual avocations of the time, assemble in
their respective houses of worship, and humbly acknowl-
edge before Almighty God their manifold sins and trans-
gressions. And let us all, in whatever place we may be,
endeavor to make our thoughts and feelings conform to
the outward observance, that we may keep an acceptable
fast unto the Sovereign Kuler of people and nations.
280 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
Especially ought we to call to mind, and seek forgive-
ness for, those transgressions which pertain to our duties
as a State and an integral part of the nation. Let us
remember that those nations which forget Uod are de-
stroyed without remedy, and that we can look for favor
at His hands only when coining to Him in the way of
His appointment.
Let us confess, each according to his conscience, that
we have been slow to perceive, and reluctant to execute,
the Divine will, in letting the oppressed go free: and
that we have not remembered, as we ought, the hand that
brought us victorious out of our great national trial and
contest.
Let us deplore and lament the prevalence of crime in
our midst, and that intemperance, licentiousness, profanity,
and Sabbath breaking, are yet, in so great a degree, a
snare to the feet of the young and a reproach to the old.
Let us confess, with full purpose of amendment, that
we have not occupied before the world that high position
which the (iiver of all our blessings has a right to
demand, and that we are not yet guided in our public
policy, or our private conduct, sufficiently by His word.
For these and numberless other reasons let us be admon-
ished to humble ourselves, remembering that "' Though
the Lord be high, yet hath he respect unto the lowly : but
the proud he knoweth afar off.''
Let us pray our Heavenly Father to continue the fruit-
ful seasons and the reward of honest industry: that lie
will protect the widow and the orphan, and bless the
defenders of the nation who braved the dreadful perils of
war to preserve it from destruction : that He will help us
to remember them with gratitude, and cherish the families
of the fallen with warm sympathy and generosity.
Let us supplicate His favor upon our rulers, that they
mav be animated solely by one unalterable punose to do
/ 1 L
CLEMENCY. 281
right in the fear of God, and reconstruct our liepublic
upon the eternal principles of righteousness, truth, human-
ity, justice, and liberty.
And finally, may we all on this day, with sincere peni-
tence and true faith in the mediation and atonement of
our Saviour, find pardon and reconciliation with God.
Given at the council chamber in Concord, this fifteenth
day of March, in the year of our Lord one thousand
eight hundred and sixty-seven, and of the United States
of America the ninetieth.
FREDERICK SMYTH.
ByIIi.s Excellency the Governor, with advice and consent of Council.
WALTER HARHIMAN, Secretary of State.
On the afternoon of Fast Day, Governor Smyth, with
a party of ladies and gentlemen, visited the state-prison,
where the convicts were assembled in the chapel. After
recitations by Mrs. Miller, of Concord, and some kind
words from the governor and others, the impromptu exer-
cises were closed with singing " .Kind words never die,"
several of the prisoners joining. The officials and spec-
tators then went through the prison into the guard-room,
where the governor, unobserved by those present, re-
quested Warden Mayo to bring in a certain prisoner.
When the astonished convict found himself in the center
of the concourse of ladies, Governor Smyth took him
by the hand and said:
'' My friend, about twelve months ago you were com-
mitted to this prison for five years for the alleged crime
of passing counterfeit money. Soon after your incar-
ceration circumstances came to light tending to prove
that, although a counterfeit bill passed through your
C 1 1 O f
hands, it was used by you in an entirely innocent manner,
and that you were unwittingly the dupe of a scoundrel
who fled the State and has never been arrested. I mime-
282 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
diately ordered a full investigation of your case, and I
am thoroughly convinced that you are an innocent man
and serving out an unjust sentence. The constitution of
the State gives me the power to open the doors of this
prison, and in the lawful exercise of that power I now
grant you a full and free pardon. This very hour the
warden will relieve you of a convict's uniform and give
you a citizen's dress. You have been a good man within
these walls, and while I and my friends here live, we will
everywhere hear testimony that your imprisonment leaves
no stain upon your character. A dear wife and loving
sister have prayed for your release, and I now restore you
to their hands, to be once more their comfort and support."
As the governor closed his remarks the poor man,
overjoyed with happiness, trembled in every limb, and his
face was wet with tears. Not a person in the audience
looked unmoved upon the scene.
CHAPTER XXVII.
VISIT OF THE MANCHESTER SCHOOLS TO CONCORD.
ONE of the most pleasing incidents which occurred
during Governor Smyth's administration, was the visit of
the school-children of Manchester to the Capitol and pub-
lic institutions at Concord, as may be seen by the fol-
lowing :
EXECUTIVE DEPAHTMEXT,
C'oxcOKU, X. H., April 29, 1867.
JAMES O. ADAMS, ESQ., SUP'T OF PUBLIC INSTRUCTION,
MANCHESTER :
Mi/ Dear Sir: I have the honor to tender to yourself,
and through you to the school committee, the teachers of
the public schools, the pupils of the high school and of
the Xorth and South grammar schools, an invitation to
visit the Capitol and public institutions located here, on
some day in the early part of next month. Should the
invitation be accepted, be pleased to advise me at an early
day of the exact number accepting, and I will provide for
their transportation at my own expense, by special train
leaving Manchester at about nine A. M. and returning at
four P. M. I am, sir,
Respectfully your obedient servant,
J v v
FREDERICK SMYTH.
The railroad train, bringing from forty to fifty teachers
and nearly six hundred scholars, reached the station in
Concord about half-past nine in the morning, where the
teachers and pupils were received by the Concord board
ot education. Samuel C. Eastman, Esq., secretary of
284 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
the board, made a welcoming address, which was re-
sponded to l>y .James O. Adams. Esq., the superintendent
of the schools in Manchester. A procession was then
formed, consisting of the schools of the two cities, teach-
ers, members of the board of education, several clergy-
men, and others, and with a band of music proceeded to
the State House. Here the children were received by
Governor Smyth, Mr. Superintendent Adams making the
presentation speech, to which the governor replied nearly
as follows :
" Mr. Superintendent, Teachers and Pupils of Manches-
ter Schools: I am exceedingly happy to greet you at the
Capitol of our noble State, which during the last two years
by the votes of the peoplehas been my official home. Most
heartily do i welcome you to its halls, which many of you,
I doubt not, will worthily occupy in future years. As
your eyes shall gaze upon the blood-stained battle-tiags
here displayed, all tattered and torn in the struggles of the
battle-field, and so nobly borne by Xew Hampshire's
brave sons during the terrible contest through which we
have recently passed, you will prize more than ever before
our glorious institutions they have by their blood [ire-
served, and which you and I and all the people are now
enjoying. May these significant and eloquent emblems
of the suffering and patient endurance of our gallant sol-
diers remind you of the debt we all owe these noble men,
and tin- obligations we are under to cherish the memories
of the fallen. See to it. my young friends, that the pa-
triotic sentiments awakened in your hearts to-day by these
sad emblems, grow with your growth and strengthen with
your strength. You cannot but be favorably impressed
with the beautiful city of Concord and its good people,
who have so cordially and handsomely welcomed you
here to-day.
This exchange of civilities will do much to foster and
cultivate that courtesy and good feeling between the sister
.MANCHESTER SCHOOLS VISIT CONCORD. 285
cities so much to be desired by us all. I hope and trust,
my friends, that your visit to the Capitol and other insti-
tutions will prove agreeable and pleasant to you all, and
that you will return home with a truer knowledge and
better appreciation of our good old State and its govern-
ment, and with an increased desire and determination to be
better prepared to faithfully perform all your duties in the
various spheres to which you are or may be hereafter
called.
" It will now give me great pleasure to receive each of
you at the council chamber in a less formal manner than
I can do here, and then introduce you to the various apart-
ments of this splendid edifice which the liberality of the
citizens of Concord has made an ornament to the State;
after which I shall be happy to accompany you to the
state-prison and insane asylum, of neither of which insti-
tutions I pray any of you may ever become inmates.''
The Manchester scholars then passed through the coun-
cil chamber, where they were individually introduced to
the governor, who shook hands with them all. As the
Xorth Grammar School pupils were passing through the
room, Miss Clara Glidden, in behalf of her associates,
presented his excellency with a beautiful bouquet of rare
greenhouse flowers. After the introduction, the scholars
o
had time to examine the battle-flags, and to visit the vari-
ous apartments of the State House. They then repaired
to the representatives' hall, where they enjoyed a colla-
tion which they had brought with them. Meantime the
Concord board of education gave the Manchester school
officials and some invited guests a bountiful collation at
the Eagle Hotel. Mr. Eastman presided. Brief after-
dinner speeches were made by Governor Smyth, General
Harrimau (governor-elect), ex-Senator Fogg, Rev. Dr.
Bouton, Kev. Mr. Clatiin, and William Little, of Man-
chester.
286 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
Among others at the table were Mayor Abbott, Adju-
tant-General Head, and Colonel I). A. "Warde, of the
governor's start' After the collation Colonel Parker's
pupils gathered in front of the Capitol and went through
some very creditable military gymnastic exercises.
The visitors next marched to the prison, where they ex-
amined the cells and workshops. Within that establish-
ment the scene was one creating emotions in which
pleasure and sorrow were mingled in somewhat equal
parts. After the teachers, schools, and others in the pro-
cession had been arranged in the order for seeing and
hearing to the best advantage, the prisoners (some over
100) were marched from their cells and arranged in Hies
on a side of the inclosure opposite the schools. Here an
address was made by Governor Smyth to the prisoners,
as follows :
"Inmates of the Prison : During my official connection
with this institution, it has been my desire and practice to
have all things done for your comfort and happiness con-
sistent with proper security and discipline, and now, as
my official relations with you arc about to be severed, it
gives me satisfaction to bear testimony, before you all,
how invariably my efforts in this direction have been ap-
preciated and met with corresponding good conduct on
the part of every one of you. This proves to my mind
that I have made no mistake in this regard.
" To-day I have invited the teachers and children of the
schools of Manchester to visit you, not to indulge their
idle curiosity, but that you and they may be made better
thereby. As yon look upon the bright and innocent
faces of childhood, a privilege T know you rarely enjov,
your minds will be called back to your innocent days,
and those of your brothers and sisters and early play-
mates, and you will be reminded of the early and pure
mother's love, and your own dear children, shut away
MANCHESTER SCHOOLS VISIT CONCORD. 287
from you now. And as you think of those happy and
innocent days now past, I know you will bitterly regret
that you ever departed from the path of rectitude, and
you will here resolve hereafter to live a life of honesty
and integrity; and may (iod give you the strength and
determination to keep these good resolutions when you
are again called to meet the temptations of the world.
We came not here to censure or discourage you, but to
pity and encourage and comfort you in your good resolves
and hopes. It is not too late for most of 3-011 yet to
become useful members of society, and receive pardon
and forgiveness from God and men. I doubt not you
will be remembered to-night and hereafter in the evening
prayers of many of these friends and children ; and may
your prayers and theirs and those of your dear friends
everywhere be heard by Him whose pardon we all con-
stantly need.
" Children of the schools, you are soon to meet the
temptations by which these men have fallen. Oh, how
little you now know of the snares that will be thrown in
your pathway in after life. If you have not the moral
and religious strength to successfully resist them, their
experience will be yours. If these men could speak to
you, they would say, ' Take warning from us, and persist-
ently strive against every thought, and the first and small-
est attempt at wrong doing.' May this interview be
profitable to us all."
The liev. Mr. Holman, chaplain of the prison, replied
in very fitting terms. Some of the prisoners were deeply
aft'eeted, while to all the spectacle was of an impressive and
suggestive character. At the conclusion of the addresses
the pupils sang several pieces, after which the com icts
proceeded to their several places in the workshops. After
the schools had gone into the various apartments of the
institution, the procession was reformed, and passed out
288 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
of the prison by the gate through a hole in which the
notorious Shinborn made his escape in the preceding
December.
Reaching the high school edifice, the company was
received by Mr. \Voolson. In the spacious hall the
schools assembled, where they rested a while, preparatory
to visiting the asylum for the insane. Vocal and instru-
mental music occupied the brief time the company was
in the hall.
At the asylum, the great company was received in
an address of welcome by Joseph B. Walker, Esq., a
member of the board of trustees, Mr. Superintendent
Adams, of Manchester, replying. After passing through
the apartments and over a portion of the grounds of the
asylum, the long procession marched to the railroad
station, and the Manchester visitors were soon on their
homeward way. The occasion was one of great interest,
no circumstance occurring to mar the pleasure thereof,
and will exert a salutary influence upon the people of the
two cities.
The young ladies of the Manchester North Grammar
School, through one of their number, presented the
governor with a beautiful bouquet, as an evidence of their
gratitude for his kind attentions, and he thus acknowl-
edged its reception :
CONCORD, May 1, 18G7.
Miss CLARA GLIDDKX : The elegant bouquet I had the
honor to receive from your hands, in behalf of the young
ladies of the Manchester North Grammar School, on the
pleasant occasion of their recent visit to this chamber,
deserves from me a more fitting acknowledgment than
I was in the hurry of the moment able to make.
Be pleased to accept, then, at this late hour, my warmest
thanks tor your beautiful present and the most agreeable
compliment conveyed in its presentation. Be assured,
MANCHESTER SCHOOLS VISIT CONCORD. 289
my fair friends, that this kind manifestation of your
remembrance is highly appreciated by me, and that
though the fragrant flowers comprising the bouquet will
fade and lose their sweetness, yet the one more beautiful
formed by the young ladies then surrounding me will
never fade from my memory, and my prayer is that their
virtues, unlike the fading flowers, may shine brighter and
brighter until transplanted to the garden of eternal bloom.
I have the honor to remain,
Very respectfully your obedient servant,
FREDERICK SMYTH.
19 .
CHAPTER XXVIII.
VALEDICTORY GUBERNATORIAL MESSAGE.
WHEN the legislature assembled in June, 1867, Gov-
ernor Smyth delivered a valedictory address, which is
as follows :
SENATOR? AND REPRESENTATIVES:
In ordinary times the expediency of pronouncing a
valedictory address might be doubted: but while I could
waive all personal considerations and let this occasion
pass with merely words of courtesy and of parting, I am
reminded that you, gentlemen of the legislature, and the
people whose representatives you are, should receive some
official acknowledgment at my hands, not only for the
gratifying unanimity of your support, but for the intel-
ligence and foresight with which your predecessors have
provided for the general welfare of the State in times
of peculiar difficulty and danger. Xo matter how great
the ability or resources of an executive officer, his best
efforts will be thwarted if called to preside over a divided
or irresolute people, or a jealous and hesitating legisla-
ture ; and desire to [dace here upon record my belief
that to the courage and constancy of the people, and the
wise and judicious enactments of the law-making power,
Xe\v Hampshire owes much of her present high posi-
tion and freedom from financial embarrassment. Her
bond> are now at par in the markets, and so good is her
word esteemed that no rate above six percent per annum
has been paid in funding the large floating debt of the
State during the past year. I am bound, also, in honor
and fair dealing to say that whatever mav have been the
VALEDICTORY MESSAGE. 291
differences of opinion among us, there lias been no fac-
tious opposition from any source to measures necessary
for the public credit, but I have uniformly received the
hearty co-operatiou of men of all parties in this difficult
work.
There are certain tacts which may add to the estima-
tion in which the financial condition of the State is held,
which can only properly be uttered at the completion of
a term of public service.
Two years ago I assumed the duties of the office which
I am about to leave, under extraordinary and trying cir-
cumstances. A long and bloody war had just terminated,
and in the faint flush of the light of returning day, the
American people had but just begun to realize the trials
through which they had passed. As the clouds rolled
away and new duties and new obligations were revealed
to us, it became necessary to re-arrange our affairs and to
prepare our State for a new career, that she might bear
herself as creditably in peace as she had done in war.
Here at the threshold I was met with a heavy floating
debt, which appealed in vain to an exhausted treasury for
payment, while the banks and money-lenders of the State
were burdened with her obligations. I therefore addressed
my attention at once to the condition of the finances, with
the determined purpose to provide for the wants of the
treasury, so that its obligations should be promptly met.
It was necessary to raise the credit of the State, and the
price of her securities, and to procure money at the least
expense for funding the floating debt, and also to ascer-
tain and properly present all our just claims upon the
General Government, and to reduce our expenses so far as
possible to their accustomed basis in times of peace : all
of which has been accomplished. And here-, gentlemen,
allow me once for all to acknowledge, with profound sen-
sibilitv, the cordial and unwavering support of my conn-
292 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
cil and the co-ordinate branches of the Government. If
one seemed to lead, it was by virtue of his position, while
a common and noble purpose animated all. The people,
indeed, felt their burdens, for they were heavy, but they
did not falter, and are now about to reap the reward of
their constancy. A large portion of the expenses of the
war have been paid, and the remainder so adjusted that,
should strict economy be observed in our State expendi-
tures, the taxes may be rapidly reduced and still the
reduction of the debt be annually continued.
In the difficult adjustment of our military affairs, you
will agree with me in warm approval of the energy and
efficiency of the adjutant-genera], whose work has in all
cases been well performed. When it has been my grate-
ful duty to extend a welcoming hand, in behalf of the peo-
ple of the ^tate, to our brave returning soldiers, he has
forwarded my purpose with unflagging interest and zeal.
You will not forget that around his department all the
memories of the contest now cluster. The long roll of
honor is there. There are gathered the blood-stained
battle-flags, and there will always be found those associa-
tions which should inspire us with a love of country, and
an appreciation of the services of those who gave their
lives and shed their blood for those blessings which God
bestowed when he gave us the victory.
Departing from this general style of remark, I hasten
to present, in the briefest manner, a review of the most
important measures of my administration :
FINANCES.
State tax $752,016 44
Railroad tax 192,159 26
Savings bank tax 08, 384 37
United States war claims . . . 15,821 88
Civil commissions ...... 542 00
Public property *22 16
VALEDICTORY MESSAGE. 293
State bonds $1,556,780 00
State notes 351,." 19 50
Interest 8,099 38
Cash in treasury June 1, 18GG . . . 157,878 85
$3,093,823 84
The disbursements for the year amounted to $3,038,-
399.36, and were for the following purposes :
Salaries $34,246 09
Legislature and council ..... 40,5:5-" 90
Military expenses 19, 258 71
Towns. Railroad tax dividends . . . 89, 880 74
Savings bank tax dividends . . 49,4(52 88
State aid 95,547 74
Literary fund . ... 9.8:5:5 31
Commissions ..... G,(5(54 39
Legislative resolves 1(1,8.05 19
Printing . .... . 20,819 88
Charitable and penal institutions . . . 44,941 12
Adjutant and quartermaster-general's depart-
ment Il,0(i7 ?S7
Volunteer militia 11,. si 6 (54
State bonds paid . ... 100.00000
State notes paid 2.K54.228 74
Interest . 3 is, 1*3 71
State House yard . . . 4,098 82
Abatement of tax ...... s72 0:5
Bounty on wild animals . 191 On
83,038,399 36
Cash in treasury June 1, 1867 . . 55,124 48
83,093, ,S23 84
Funded debt . . . . 3.701.15906
Not funded li>9.637 50
83. s 10.79C, 56
Less eash in treasury and asset- . . . 63,ul9 61
Total debt .June 1, 1*67 .... 83, 747. 776 95
The debt June 1. 1866, less a--ct.>, wa- . 4,0o2.n7o ].-;
Reduction of debt past year .... 251.31:! 1*
294 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
The governor and council were authorized by act of
the legislature of last year, to issue bonds amounting to
$1,800,000, bearing such rate of interest as might be
deemed most expedient, for the purpose of funding the
floating debt. Six per cent was fixed upon as being the
lowest rate of currency interest with which any hope of
selling the securities at par could reasonably be enter-
tained, in the face of the abundance of undoubted obliga-
tions bearing a higher rate of interest, which flooded the
money market. The bonds have been issued and sold to
the amount of about fourteen hundred thousand dollars
at par, with which and other funds of the treasury all the
eight per cent notes have been paid, and all others except
the small balance of $109,000, which we have not been
able to procure, although the treasurer lias used every
effort to have them presented. Many of these outstand-
ing notes were given to soldiers during the war, some of
which will probably never be found. So much of the
balance of those bonds as may be required to pay these
notes, or any bonds falling due the present year, will
soon be absorbed by the ordinary demand for them at
the treasurer's office. The unsold bonds, amounting to
3,190.300 of a prior issue, and the plates from which the
same were printed, have been destroyed, agreeably to the
provisions of that act.
The negotiation of this large amount the past year at six
per cent, subject to taxation, while undoubted securities
have commanded seven per cent and above, and Govern-
ment bonds, exempted from taxation, at a higher rate of
interest, have abounded, has been no easy task, but shows
the high opinion of money-lenders abroad of the credit
of New Hampshire. Xo legislation regarding the finan-
ces will be needed for the present year, as all required
payments are now provided for : and I congratulate my
successor that lie will be relieved from any labor or anxi-
ety relating to financial matters.
VALEDICTORY .MESSAGE. 295
Hon. I). D. Ranlett, State auditor, whose services have
been so valuable, having accepted a more lucrative posi-
tion abroad, a few weeks since tendered his resignation.
Believing that the necessity which created the office no
longer existed, and that its usefulness had consequently
ceased, I did not deem it advisable to embarrass your
action by inducting a new and inexperienced person into
the office. His resignation, therefore, was not accepted,
and, though absent from the State a part of the time, he
has continued to discharge such duties as were required,
and you will have in his able report the advantage of his
experience and familiar knowledge of the affairs in his
department. I see no reason why the governor and coun-
cil may not now, as in times past, properly perform the
duties required of this officer, since the great amount of
business growing out of the war has been substantially
completed. Unnecessary offices increase expense, create
confusion, and often render accounts difficult to be under-
stood.
The total expenditures of Xew Hampshire for war pur-
poses amount to $6,852, 678. Of this amount, there has been
paid for bounties $2,389,025. For the reimbursement
to towns of aid furnished families of soldiers, $1, 835, 085.
There has been reimbursed to the State by the General
Government, for war expenses, $897,122, much of which
has been obtained after repeated rejections. I Jut little more
may be expected from this source- without action of Con-
gress. The expenses incurred by cities and town.- on ac-
count of the war, including $965, 512, I'nited States boun-
ties advanced, amount to 7,250,541. The amount which
has been reimbursed by the Tnited States for bounties ad-
vanced is $475, 159: 410,107 has been paid to the towns
to which it belonged, and $(15.052 is now in the bands of
the State treasurer, having recently been received. This,
with some $10,000 more, promised in a lew days, will be
paid to the towns entitled to it. as soon as adjusted. More
296 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
of this claim can probably be obtained, if the efforts
which have been made to procure what has already been
received are persisted in.
As the foundation of all true financial prosperity, allow
me next a word upon measures for the encouragement of
agriculture. The land script which was awarded Xew
Hampshire by Congress for the foundation of an agricul-
tural college has been sold, and the proceeds, amounting
to $80,000, have been invested in State bonds. It is be-
lieved that the connection of this branch of education
with Dartmouth College will be of great service to those
who desire to add to the labor of the farm a knowledge
of those scientific principles upon which good farming
rests. The fair of the Xew England Society, held within
our borders, contributed much to awaken an interest in
the general subject, and to promote inquiry in the true di-
rection, fit connection with this matter, 1 may remark
that individual explorations of our public lands the past
year have added much to the knowledge of their value
and of their mineral resources.
Measures are in a satisfactory state of progress for the
restoration of the tish in our rivers, which once so plen-
teously inhabited them. AVays have been constructed
over the dams at Lawrence and Lowell at considerable
expense by the State of Massachusetts, which, with some
modification, promise to prove successful in accomplish-
ing the object sought. I am glad to commend the hearty
co-operation nf that commonwealth in this enterprise.
The condition of the state-prison has been carefully
considered during my administration. For many years
the rate paid tor labor of convicts has been fortv cents
per day. and a five years' contract at this rate expires in
August next. The warden was instructed in .lanuarv
la>t to advertise tor proposals tor this labor, which
resulted in a contract with responsible parties tor two
thirds of the nn-n at ninety cents per day for five vcars.
VALEDICTORY MESSAGE. 297
and seventy-five cents per day for the remaining third for
three years, and at the expiration of three years all of the
men at the first-named price. By an act of the last legis-
lature, the governor and council were requested, if they
deemed it advisable, to procure plans and estimates of
costs for enlarging the prison. Tpon investigation, while
we were unable to approve of the present buildings, we
were satisfied that the alterations necessary for any essen-
tial improvement must be so radical and expensive that
you would be unwilling to increase the burdens of the
treasury at present by an enterprise of this character. As
the prison seems to have been substantially self-sustain-
ing in the past on less than half the receipts for labor to
be realized in the future, I am gratified to believe that
this arrangement will enable you to act untrammeled by
the considerations which have governed us.
I may also congratulate you on the revision of the
statutes, which has been accomplished by the able- and
learned commission appointed for that purpose. The im-
portance of the work will be recognized by all who know
the value of systematic and well-arranged statute books.
At the close of the war, the State was without any or-
ganized militia. With the aid of the adjutant-general,
whose services in this direction we shall ever remember,
the work of organizing the State militia, in accordance
with the present laws, has been successfully accomplished,
and Xew Elampshire can now boast of a military organiz-
ation believed to be the best she has ever enjoyed.
A volume of State papers, prepared by the Rev. Dr.
Xathaniel 1'outon. under authority of a commission
issued by the governor and council, is now nearly ready
for publication, and will consist, first, of the very earliest
provincial papers and documents that can be found, from
1629 to 1050: second, of the ancient papers and records
found in the office of the secretary of state of Massachu-
setts, from 1!41 to 1'i^O. while Xew Hampshire was sub-
298 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
ject to the jurisdiction of that State ; third, of the records
of the " Council " and the " Council and Assembly " of
Xew Hampshire, from 1692 to 1700 ; fourth, of miscella-
neous papers and letters, official and private, illustrative
of the state of the Province, Indian ravages, privations
and sufferings of the inhabitants, and the growth of the
settlements in the aforesaid periods. It is estimated that
the entire work will comprise seven volumes octavo, of
600 pages each.
And now, gentlemen of the legislature, I gladly sur-
render these important trusts, confided to my keeping by
a generous people, into the hands of my successor, be-
speaking for him the same kindness which has cheered
me in my labor, and that high regard dive to his services
on the battle-field and his public labors in the civil walks
of lite. But though glad to be relieved from cares and
anxieties which have almost exclusively occupied me dur-
ing the past two years, I shall ever esteem dear the honor,
prosperity, and glory of my native State, whose interests
are only subordinate to the welfare of a restored and
peaceful Union. May the Supreme Kuler of nations and
States strengthen and uphold you in the discharge of
every duty : may harmonious counsels, just laws, wise
measures, and undisturbed peace, mark the duration of
your official terms, and the consciousness of work well
done ever attend you through all your future career.
With a heart full of gratitude to God for whatever
strength He lias given me in my endeavors faithfully to
perform my duty, and for the manner in which he has fa-
vorably inclined the minds of the people, I now surrender
these trusts, hoping they have not suffered in my keeping.
My official record is now completed. I trust it may stand
the test of examination, of criticism, and of time, be ap-
proved by the people, and by Him to whom we must all
render an account at last.
PRESS COMMENTS. 299
The following press comments upon the valedictory
address are quoted :
The Manchester Mirror .said : " The valedictory is a
full and clear review of the prominent events and results
of two years of arduous service in the chief magistracy.
Governor Smyth has nothing to conceal or evade. He
has done his whole duty, and done it well. He knows the
exact financial condition of the State, and he states it with
the clearness of full and accurate knowledge. One can
o
hut feel, as he closes the reading of this message, that an
arduous stewardship has been indeed nobly fulfilled.''
From the Boston Journal : " Governor Smyth's admin-
istration has been highly successful, not only in a financial
point of view, which is demonstrated by statistics, but in
all other respects. He has been indefatigable in pressing
the claims of his State, taking refusal after refusal only
as spurs to his final triumph."
From the Commercial Bulletin : "Yesterday at half-past
twelve P. M. the term of service of Hon. Frederick Smyth
as governor of jSTew Hampshire came to a close. An ad-
dress delivered by him on that occasion is found in this
sheet, which contains facts that will afford the highest
satisfaction to the people whose executive head he has
been the last two years. To say that the public concerns
of the State have been well cared for by Governor Smyth,
would imperfectly express our opinion of his administra-
tion. He has been as vigilant and careful of the interests
of the people as if those concerns were personal to him-
self, and has so successfully managed the financial affairs of
the State that its credit stands as well as that of any other
commonwealth. He has not, furthermore, been content
with merely discharging the routine duties of the station
he occupied, but sought in other ways to promote the
prosperity of Xew Hampshire. If Governor Smyth had
not. declined further service, the people would have ex-
300 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
tended bis term by a tbird election. He leaves the execu-
tive chair with a record to which both himself and his
fellow-citizens may turn with satisfaction."
From the Concord .Daily Monitor : " The (valedictory)
message of Governor Smyth is the fitting complement of
a well-rounded official life. Few men ever came into the
gubernatorial chair surrounded with more perplexities or
charged with higher responsibilities Two years
ago the finances of the State were in a condition of chaos.
Money was difficult to be obtained and only at exorbitant
rates. The public credit was as uncertain as the State's
indebtedness. To-day Governor Smyth resigns his charge
with the proud consciousness of leaving nothing uncer-
tain or unsettled which diligence, business tact, and untir-
ing zeal could close up and arrange Xor has
Governor Smyth's administration been merely a financial
success. He has neglected no single public interest.
Himself a practical example of all the virtues that consti-
tute a good citizen, he has interested himself in every
movement which looked to the welfare of the community
and the promotion of industry, temperance, and good
morals among the people. Sharing the popular gratitude
toward the brave " boys in blue," he has spared no effort
to serve and benefit them. Faithful to bis principles and
to bis political friends, be has never forgotten that lie was
the chief magistrate of the whole State. Everywhere
and always the plain republican and gentleman, he carries
into the retirement he voluntarily sought the conscious-
ness of duty faithfully performed, and the confidence and
respect of all patriotic and honest men. without distinction
of party. Such an end of official life is far better than
the beginning."
CHAPTER XXIX.
APPROVAL OF POLITICAL FRIENDS AND FOES.
A DISCUSSION took place in the Xew Hampshire House
of Representatives at the close of the last session during
the official term of Governor Smyth, which was of a
character so especially gratifying to him and to his friends
that it is introduced here. It shows the estimation in
which the governor's administration was held bv the
o *> ,
legislators of different political opinions. The debate was
on a joint resolution making an appropriation of $1,500
for extraordinary expenses incurred by Governor Smyth.
Mr. Sanborn, of Laconia, moved to lay the resolution
on the table, stating that he would like to make some
remarks upon it. He thought the passage of the resolu-
tion would be setting a bad precedent that in after times
they would be sorry for.
Mr. Roles, of Ossipee, said that Governor Smyth had
stated to the Committee on Finance that he had actually
spent, in his opinion, SI, 500 for traveling expenses and
hotel bills while looking after the interests of the State at
Washington, Boston, and other places. There had been
$500 appropriated each year for contingent expenses while
he was in office, but he had not drawn any of that money,
and it remained in the treasury. Governor Smyth had
stated to the committee that if the House would allow the
amount without material objection he would like to have it,
but he would rather not have it than have any contest
over it in the House.
Mr. Walker, of Concord, stated that during the admin-
istration of Governor Smyth, he had been to Washington
some ten or twelve times, and had paid his expenses out
302 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
of his own pocket. He had also, in taking care of the
finances of the State (and they all knew he had a good
deal to do with this matter), been obliged to visit different
parts of the State to negotiate loans with savings banks,
banks, and individuals, and on all such occasions he had
paid his bills from his own pocket, and in no case had
he been reimbursed for this money which he had paid out.
Under previous administrations, he (Mr. Walker) under-
stood that the custom had been for the governor to repay
himself for such expenses by a draft upon the treasury or
upon the contingent fund. Governor Smyth did not feel
quite clear that he could take that liberty, and hence he
had not been paid for this sum which he had advanced to
the State. The Finance Committee thought the only fair
and manly course for the State to take was to pay this
money.
Mr. Ilackett, of Portsmouth, said he trusted the vote
upon this question would be of such a character as to sat-
isfy Governor Smyth that the House took as much pleas-
ure in granting this sum as he would feel in receiving it.
He thought the House \vould not be inclined to give
Governor Smyth's successors a hint that when they got
hold of any of the funds of the State, they had better
take care of themselves first. The governor had scrupu-
lously followed up the interests of the State, and had
taken none of the money of the State beyond his salary.
His efforts had been attended with great success in press-
ing the claims of the State upon the General Government,
and in taking care of the interests of the State in every
direction. If he had done this at his own expense, he
(Mr. Ilackett) thought they should convince him, by their
action in this matter, that they appreciated and were
grateful lor what he had done.
Mr. Page, of Warren, said he took special pleasure in
advocating the passage of the resolution. It had been the
POLITICAL APPROVAL. 303
custom to appropriate from $500 to $1,000 a year for a
contingent fund. He had found that Governor Smyth
had never meddled with this contingent fund, which his
predecessors had always drawn. Pie (Mr. Page) helieved
that he had been most scrupulously exact, more so than
many others would have been under the same circum-
stances : and in compliment to that rare integrity, and in
further compliment to the rare financial ability manifested
by the late executive, he hoped the resolution would pass.
He felt that he was honoring himself and complimenting
his constituents by giving his support to the bill.
Mr. Sturoc, of Simapee, said he acquiesced in every
word that had been said by the gentleman from Warren
and the gentleman from Portsmouth. He thought they
would simply be doing themselves honor and justice in
passing the resolution.
Mr. Sanborn, of Laconia, said he was not prepared to
say what course was pursued in regard to the extraordi-
nary expenses of Governor Berry, and he asked that the
resolution might be laid upon the table to give him an
opportunity to prepare himself to speak upon it. lie did
not suppose that any gentleman on the Hoor would say
that ex-Governor Smyth had not done all a man could do:
but he (Mr. Sanborn) supposed he was well aware when
he accepted the otHce what his salary was to be : and if,
at this late day, he could come in and demand $1,~>00 for
extraordinary services, he (Mr. Sanborn) wanted the privi-
lege of being heard. His constituents would like to know
for what their money was spent.
Mr. Page, of Warren, stated that Governor Berry re-
ceived special appropriations, in amount nearfy equal to
the amount proposed to be paid Governor Smyth, and
received the contingent fund also. Governor Gilmore
drew in orders upon the treasury over $1,000, and
received a special appropriation from the legislature
304 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
of $1,000, and the contingent fund each year. He be-
lieved that this claim was less in amount than was actually
received by Governor Berry and Governor Gilmore
beyond their salaries, and he believed it was infinitely
better deserved.
Mr. Barnard, of Canaan, said he too was a Democrat,
and was willing to refund to Governor Smyth what he had
paid out, so that he should lose nothing by having been
governor of the State, as he had satisfied, as a general
thing, both the Democratic and Republican parties.
[Applause.]
Mr. True, of Plainiield, thought that if the gentleman
from Laconia had proper time to investigate the merits of
the case, he would be willing, as he (Mr. True) believed
every other member of the House was, to favor the resolu-
tion. He thought it would be ungentlemanly in the House
to refuse the appropriation.
The question was then taken, and the motion to lay on
the table lost. The resolution was subsequently passed
net'n. <<>/!. Governor Smyth soon afterwards acknowl-
edged the courteous manner in which one of his political
opponents had alluded to him, in the following letter :
MAXCIIKSTKI:. July 11, 1867.
SAMUEL B. PA<;K, Ks^. :
M;l iJtur Sir: I cannot allow the handsome manner
in which you were pleased to allude to some matters con-
nected with my administration to pass unnoticed. Your
remarks in the House of Representatives on the twenty-
eighth day of last month, upon the resolution for niy
extraordinary expenses while holding the position of
governor, were happily conceived, and under the circum-
stances an act of very graceful courtesy. While our
political convictions lead u> to different conclusions, I
shall not soon forget that you have shown that gentlemen
are not peculiar to any party.
RECEPTION OF CHIEF JUSTICE CHASE. 305
Thanking you most sincere!}' for this kind and noble
act, I remain most sincerely your friend and obedient
servant,
FREDERICK SMYTH.
On the 27th of August, 1867, Chief Justice Chase was
the guest of ex-Governor Smyth, and was the recipient
of many attentions from the citizens. He was received
at the depot by a large delegation, after which he dined
privately with his host and family. At eight r. M. the
doors were thrown open to the public, and hundreds filled
the grounds and the adjacent streets. At nine o'clock the
cornet band arrived and added its music to the animation
of the scene. The house and grounds were illuminated,
and the crowd very good-naturedly called on the chief
justice for a speech. As he came out, he was introduced
by the Honorable David Cross, and made a very pleasant
and fitting response. Ex-Governor Smyth also being
called on, thanked the people for the respect and atten-
tion they showed his guest and the nation's benefactor.
The chief justice received many invitations to visit vari-
ous parts of the State, most of which he was compelled
to decline. He however made a tour of the mills and
other industrial pursuits of Manchester, and also visited
the Xew Hampshire General Association of Ministers,
then in convention at Xashua, and addressed them briefly
on the duties of citizenship.
General Harriman, in his inaugural message to the
legislature, thus indorsed the financial course of Governor
Smyth :
" My predecessor has presented to you a clear and de-
tailed statement of the present condition of the finances
of the State. It is unnecessary to repeat that exhibit
here, or to anticipate the details of the treasurer's report,
which will soon be laid before you. The State is not
bankrupt. Her credit was never better than now.
306 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
Under the skillful financial management of my predeces-
sor, more than a quarter of a million was paid on her debt
during the past year, and with the same rate of taxation
an equal amount, at least, may be paid the present year.
The people are not poor. To say nothing of their great
multiplicity of resources, they have money enough on
deposit in our savings banks to pay the State debt nearly
three times over. It is gratifying to know that the extent
and character of our indebtedness have been carefully
ascertained and promptly presented to the public, thus
removing all cause of suspicion regarding it. The larger
part of the debt has been advantageously funded, and the
remainder placed in such condition as to be easily and
safely managed."
In September, 1867, ex-Governor Smyth presided at
the ]STew Hampshire State Fair, held at Dover, and made
some brief introductory remarks. The address was deliv-
ered by Major Ben: Perley Poore, of Massachusetts, and
there were speeches by Governor Harriman, Colonel
Xeedham, and others.
CHAPTER XXX.
DEDICATION OF A SOLDIERS' MONUMENT.
EX-GOVERNOR SMYTH was invited to deliver the address
at the dedication of a soldiers' monument at Washington,
Xew Hampshire, on the 16th of October, 1867. A clear
and beautiful Indian summer day lent an additional
charm to all the exercises, which were witnessed by a
large concourse of people. The sturdy and intelligent
yeomanry left their tields, the artisans closed their shops,
and the operatives in the factories joined the throng
which congregated to pay their respects to the memory
of those who had died that their country might live.
The lovely village of Washington was handsomely decor-
ated for the occasion, with flags waving across the streets
and from the principal buildings. A procession, in which
marched about fifty returned soldiers, escorted the orator
of the day and other distinguished guests to a platform
erected in front of the monument. Hon. Martin Chase,
president of the day, made some interesting remarks
giving a history of the collection of funds for the erection
of the monument, followed by a fervent prayer by Rev.
S. L. Gerould, of Stoddard, late a member of the Four-
teenth New Hampshire Infantry. The president of the
day then introduced as the orator of the occasion ex-
Governor Smyth, who was greeted as he rose with three
hearty cheers. He then spoke as follows:
FRIENDS AND FKLI.OW-CITI/EXS :
On an occasion so sad and yet so joyous, so mingled
with the elements of grief and of thanksgiving, it would
be a difficult task, even for one accomplished in all the
graces of oratory, to rise to a full comprehension of that
308 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
sublime height reached by our sacred dead; still less
can I hope to find words to set forth the splendor of their
deeds, or pay any fitting tribute to the value of their
services.
Happily, there is little need to tell you what you have
lost or what the country has gained. Those soldiers went
out from among yo, from their homes and farms and
firesides, from the altar and the church, to do battle for
their country. You knew them well. They were no
mercenary hirelings, but citizens like yourselves, bone of
your bone and flesh of your flesh : now, alas ! missed for
ever from these loved and peaceful scenes, these happy
homes and bright northern skies, these hills that rose
to their thoughts on the long, weary marches, and in-
spired their dreams with thoughts of home. Lost to
sight, but not forgotten, they live in the institutions they
defended, in the ;egis of civil liberty they planted, and in
the hearts and affections of a great and free people.
The time is yet too recent, and the tossing of the great
struggle too much felt, to Take a just view of the acts of
those we meet to honor; but already multitudes, through
a mist of tears, have seen the bow of promise span the
Graves of their fallen kindred, and have some true con-
O
ception of the value of our country and its freedom.
But while we cannot quite pierce the future, nor judge
'of all the omens of the day, I believe that this is to be a
land where the principles of civil liberty as set forth in
the declaration of our fathers will be lived, as well as
read and thought, and where every man and woman, no
matter what cold climes have blanched their cheeks, or
what tropic suns have darkened their faces, shall have the
noblest liberty that God ever gave to any of His people,
"the liberty to do right."
The attention of the traveler in Italy, and in the old
countries of the world, is constantly attracted to the
DEDICATION OF SOLDIERS' MONUMENT. 309
numerous monuments of antiquity on every hand. Many
of them, although partially in ruins, are works of rare
beauty and grandeur, on which the most sublime artistic
skill has been displayed, and immense labor and vast
wealth expended. These beautiful columns challenge our
admiration for the genius, taste, and skill which con-
structed them; yet, on a careful examination of their his-
tory and now partially obliterated inscriptions, the Amer-
ican will be disgusted with the fact that in almost every
instance they were reared in the honor of rulers of great
renown, and AVCIV merely the expression of tyrannic
power and the servility of the masses, who, from choice
or necessity, spent lives of toil to give immortality to a
single man. One of the best preserved monuments of
this kind now standing in Rome the Column Trajan
is dedieated, as the inscription tells us, TO the honor of the
Emperor Trajan by the Senate and Roman people, A. i>.
114. Although more than 1,700 years old, it is now in
almost a perfect state of preservation. I can give you no
better appreciation of it than by stating the simple fact
that the sculptures upon it contain no less than 2,500
human figures. The ashes of the emperor alone are de-
posited within : but not the name of a single soldier of
the thousands who gave their live:- for his empire is re-
corded there.
American monuments give expression to great events.,
and, at the same time, individualize the services of the
masses active in their production. Such is the monu-
ment before us. In accordance with our national appre-
ciation of individual life, and tin- service:- of our soldiers
in the ranks, von have engraven upon it the name ot
everv man in vour town, however humble Ins position.
who gave his life righting our hattle>.
One of the most important truths demonstrated by our
late war is this : that the nation which attache;- the most
310 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
value to individual life and gives the most freedom to in-
dividual action for the sake of its life, and for the sake of
freedom itself and the world, made the most stupendous
voluntary sacrifice of life known to history. Standing
armies of mercenary troops support despotic power,
but we have taught the world the great lesson that
gigantic armies of volunteers, fighting for freedom and
national existence, have been persistently maintained
throughout a great conflict, whose frequently recurring
battles and great carnage would have exhausted any other
people on earth.
"We do well, then, to honor those who have fallen in
such a contest, and we do honor them. It is safe to say
that our armies have commanded, to a greater extent than
any other armies which have ever made the venture of
war, the sympathy of their countrymen, their active aid
and support, their care for the sick and wounded, and for
the disabled who have survived. And no nation has ever
so tenderly and carefully disposed of its heroic dead, or
so generally honored them in their burial, as have the
American people.
Such monuments as this, of material as enduring as the
hills from which it is taken, scattered all over our broad
land, will, to the remotest ages, in connection with our
written history, keep fresh the memory of such as we
honor to-day, and multiply the proofs of the patriotism
and the sacrifices of our recent struggle.
"When you and I, my friends, and all these children
assembled here on this fitting autumnal day, shall be
sice] ling with the fathers, generations yet unborn and
their children's children will gather around this shaft, and
upon this sacred spot rehearse the storv of the conflict in
\vhich these sons of your town gave their lives: while
coming nges. t'n>m a standpoint of civilization and appre-
ciation of merit beyond our own, shall look back upon
DEDICATION OF SOLDIERS' MONUMENT. 311
you, and, with hands upraised in benediction, pronounce
a blessing upon the work you have to-day brought to a
worthy completion.
Yes, citizens of Washington, these are the martyrs, the
seed of our universal church of liberty and of human
rights ; and you have done well to build this simple but
beautiful and expressive monument of perpetual remem-
brance ; and my admiration of the course you have taken
is not unmingled with surprise when I observe how many
larger towns, and even wealthy cities, are behind you in
this matter. Indeed, with one exception, I believe your
town is the first to lead in this noble work. And yet this
should be no cause of surprise; for do we not know that
among the hills and in the quiet haunts of a rural popula-
tion, the love of liberty is always pure and strong ? Here,
if anywhere, the true worth of our civil and religious in-
' O
stitutions is appreciated and adhered to with a tenacity of
purpose that no reverses can discourage and no danger
daunt.
I hope to see the time when this praiseworthy example
of yours will be followed throughout the State and all
t/ O
over the land ; when every town and city, each according
to the measure of its ability, shall build and inscribe some
token of a grateful people's love for their brave defenders.
I would have the world know that republics are not un-
grateful, and that, as we sacredly provide for the comfort
and maintenance of the living who came out of the con-
test poor in everything save honor, so we shall ever
cherish the memory of the dead.
I said that we should show that republics are not un-
grateful: but if it were only in the interest of self-preser-
vation, 1 hold that we should set an example to the young,
that we should instill into every heart that fervid and
U'onuine love of country which hesitates at no honorable
sacrifice to preserve its liberties untramineled or its honor
untarnished.
312 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
Let us make, keep, and sustain such a sentiment of
regard for the surviving heroes of the war, that, while
having faithfully served in freedom's cause, they shall be
made to feel that they are duly honored ; and let us so
tenderly cherish the great services of the dead, that the
sentiment adopted by the martyr patriot of the first
Revolution, " It is sweet to die for one's country," shall
be no mere fancy of the poet.
To us as American citizens, these graves of the loyal
dead are perpetual incentives to duty. Every green
mound on which the falling leaves of autumn softly drop
their gold and scarlet wreaths, every monument of stone,
or bronze, or marble that points from earth to heaven ,
admonishes us of our sacred charge.
As much as any one I believe in peace and peaceful
measures ; as much as any one I desire the lasting and
perpetual union of these States on terms of republican
justice and equality. But in such a presence as this, and
with all the sacrifice of the long years of blood and car-
nage so resolutely borne by the people, I, for one, can
never consent to any renewal of fraternal union that is
not founded on the absolute equality in right of every
citizen, irrespective of mere accident of birth. Such I
believe to be the trust reposed in us, and especially can
no man, not actually and personally engaged in the
struggle, persuade himself that he ought to do less than
to retain and improve what they have given us by their
lives. Let us cherish neither malice nor revenge; but
that love \vliich sacrifices principle is never trustworthy,
and a union bound by false compromises must fall with
every disturbance of conflicting interest, or degenerate
into a despotism.
Such, fellow-citizens, are my sentiments in regard to
our duty growing out of the war. Are they not true,
and worthy of the time and occasion ? For, in the first
pla-e, unless the war was all wrong, and the Northern
DEDICATION OF SOLDIERS' MONUMENT. 313
people not justified in defending the policy, the freedom,
and the religion of our fathers against the aggressive
power of slavery, we must learn some lessons of wisdom
from the result of the contest. The moral judgment of
the world and of posterity will not hold us guiltless if we
do not. But pardon me ; I should remember that you
do not need to be told your duty, and that you have made
up your minds on that point.
If I speak to any who have lost near friends, it is rather
to congratulate than to console. Death meets us all
sooner or later, and to him who is armed in a righteous
cause, and who falls for that dear flag which is the symbol
of his country's greatness, death can never come in a
more glorious form. I confess to you that in the presence
of these war-worn veterans, and the more thrilling pres-
ence of this silent but eloquent shaft, I am subdued and
abashed when I think how little I have sacrificed in the
common cause ; and I feel that it becomes me to approach
this consecrated ground with reverence and uncovered
head ; but surely neither I nor any of us can go from this
place careless or unconcerned for the honor of our country.
Let us rather pledge ourselves anew to tireless devotion
to its cause, and a determination that whatever traitors
may dare or do, our hands shall be clean from the destruc-
tion of this fair fabric of civil liberty which the fathers have
builded. Let no man call us usurpers or tyrants ove
other men's rights; we will accord to them all. to every
fellow-citizen beneath the starry flag, the same rights we
claim for ourselves, no more, no less.
But, my friends and fellow-citizens, I think that through
all the clouds which skirt the near horizon we can discern
the dawn of a brighter and more peaceful day. When
the moss begins to grow upon this monument, when time
has softened its sharp angles and spread its green covering
over the mound where it stands, the passions and asperi-
314 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
ties of men will have cooled down, and the great sea, so
lately rough and rolling with a tremendous storm, Avill
become as calm and placid as the summer lake.
The good old ship of State, complete in every minute
detail of spar and sail, with her great guns that herald
everywhere the advance of freedom, will sit upon the
waters instinct with a life and strength and vital force
which shall make her known, feared, and loved, till the
latest pulse-beat on the shores of Time. If they who laid
her keel, and framed her mighty ribs, and planked her
solid deck are worthy of all praise, so I am persuaded
that history will accord honorable place to those who have
taken her nobly through the storm with the flag nailed to
the masthead. " Xot a stripe erased or polluted, nor a
single star obscured." Xay, fellow-citizens, should the
result be otherwise, then were contradicted the experi-
ences of all past time, and the hand upon the dial-plate
of progress toward more just and equitable government
throughout the world would be turned back.
But I do not believe that this will be done that death-
struck slavery will revive, or that Russia will relapse into
serfdom, or that Englishmen, having once wielded the
right of suffrage, will bow to their masters the lords in
Parliament, or that Protestant Christendom, now sitting
clothed and in her right mind, will make pilgrimages to
the shrine of St. Peter, or renew allegiance to the Pope
at Koine. Xo : all these are victories won and dangers
passed: we have but to build wisely in the present, and
stret'-h forward with hope and confidence to the future,
trusting in the hand of that overruling Providence which
has accepted the sacrifice of high devotion, and which will
never desert us so long as we remain true to the great
principles of civil liberty, as developed by a Christian
civilization.
The lai'LT' 1 audience listened with the closest attention
DEDICATION OF SOLDIERS' MONUMENT. 315
to the address, and many eyes suffused in tears plainly
told that the precious memory of the sleeping patriots
was embalmed in loving hearts as well as sculptured on
monumental stone.
On motion of E. P. Howard, a vote of thanks was
given to ex-Governor Smyth for his eloquent oration, and
a copy was solicited for publication. Brief and interest-
ing addresses were made by several other gentlemen, and
the dedication ceremonies were closed by the returned
soldiers, who, headed by ex-Governor Smyth and Colonel
King, inarched in procession to the monument, where,
with uncovered heads, they deposited sprigs of evergreen
as emblematical of their constant affection for their de-
parted comrades, the band meanwhile playing a solemn
dirsre. This closed the dedication exercises.
CHAPTER XXXI.
VISIT TO EUROPE. THE EAST.
PRESIDENT HAYES appointed ex-Governor Smyth, in
1878, an honorary commissioner to the International Ex-
position at Paris. He left the port of Xew York, accom-
panied by Mrs. Smyth, on the 24th of April, on the
steamer Russia, for Liverpool. The voyage across the
Atlantic was prosperous and not marked by any incident
worthy of special mention. After passing a week in
England, chiefly in London, they went to Paris, where
the International Exposition was open, and there was
nothing to be done by the honorary commissioners ex-
cept to attend official banquets and receptions.
Ex-Governor Smyth and his wife had long cherished a
desire to travel in the Old World, especially those portions
of it hallowed by scriptural associations, and after having
inspected the International Exposition, they turned their
backs on the frivolities of Paris and started for the Holy
Land. The following extracts from the ex-governor's
private correspondence, which were published at the time
in the Manchester Mirror and American, will give a good
idea of where the travelers went and of what they saw.
HOTEL MKDITKKKAXKAN,
MOUNT ZION. JKKUSALFM,
June fi, 1878.
DEAR BROTH KR: I can only briefly outline our jour-
ney from Paris. "We left there on the 14th ult. by rail
trom Marseilles, fiOO miles through the southern part of
France >/'/ Fontainebleau, Dijon, Lyons, and numerous
other grim old towns in the richest agricultural portions
ot the country, regions famous for the vine, silk, and the
VISIT TO EUROPE. 317
olive. I passed over this route in 1862, and thought it
quite as interesting along the banks of the Khone and the
Saone as on the Rhine, and am of the same opinion still.
From Marseilles we took steamer for Alexandria,
Egypt, passing near the islands of Corsica, Elba, and
Monte Christo, the scene of Dumas' famous story, and
on the third day entered the J>ay of Naples at sunrise.
Old Vesuvius was smoking away just as I left it sixteen
years ago, although there had been one eruption mean-
while, in 1872. The entrance to this beautiful bay is as
impressive as ever, and we spent a most enjoyable day in
and about the city. I could see little change, but as at
sunset we sailed out again among the numerous islands
that bestud the harbor, the charm was undiminished.
In the next two days we passed over nearly the same
route as did St. Paul when shipwrecked on the journey
to Rome, and touched at Pozzuoli, then Puteoli, passing
near Reggio, Melita, etc. As we passed between the
island of Sicily and the southern point of Italv, Sevlla
V -I t ; ' \1
and Charybdis, Mount Etna was in plain view, and so
continued nearly all day, the sight of its snow-clad sum-
mit in this southern clime being quite refreshing. The
Ionian Islands and Candia next came in sight. May 22,
we saw the coast of Africa bordering the great Lybian
desert, and before night reached Alexandria, in the land
of Egypt. Cleopatra's Xeedle and Pompey's Pillar, signs
by which every traveler knows this land, from Peter Par-
ley down and up, first catch the eye; and on landing,
what a scene, what dire confusion ! Egyptians, Arabs,
Nubians. Tunisians, every color, all styles of dress, and
no dress at all ! Donkeys, camels, pilgrims, dervishes,
all howling, yelling, and in one conglomerate mass rush-
ing upon us ! It would have frightened any one who had
not encountered that organized banditti known as Xew
York hack-drivers. Fortunately we had an Arabian
318 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
friend with us who could speak nearly all their languages,
and with his cane he banged them right and left, making
a clean path for us to the custom-house, from whence we
soon reached our comfortable hotel.
Soon after the fall of Tyre, the books tell us, more than
2,200 years ago, Alexandria became the commercial em-
porium of Egypt, and now it is a city in a world of ruins.
For miles and miles in every direction there are scattered
remains of other ages, beautifully carved columns, frag-
ments of statues, heads, arms, and legs in promiscuous
confusion, as thick as the stones in the pastures of Can-
dia, our native town.
After several days of rare and \ (leasing experiences, we
passed on to Cairo through rich lands made fertile by
water brought from the Nile bv canal to Alexandria.
O v
They were harvesting enormous crops of wheat, and the
land also bears abundantly of rice and cotton. Men,
women, boys, and girls all work together in. the fields,
and all nearly or quite naked. The canal is tapped at
various intervals, and when the Xile water cannot be had,
it is drawn from wells, sometimes with the old-fashioned
sweep and bucket of our boyhood. The grain is gath-
ered in vast heaps near the threshing-floors, and is trodden
out by donkeys or cows, and carried on the backs of
donkeys or camels. A camel loaded with unthreshed
grain looks in shape like a cart loaded, only its four legs,
like sticks, are visible as it moves in a stately way under
its burden From Alexandria to Cairo, 130
miles, we crossed the Xile several times, visited the Pyra-
mids and Sphinx, saw the spots of traditionary interest at
Memphis, the home of the Pharoahs, of Potiphar, the
granaries of Joseph, the spot where Moses was found,
passed over a portion of the desert where the children of
Israel journeyed, and through the land of Goshen. At
the village of Mataryeh the spot is shown where Joseph,
VISIT TO EUROPE. 319
with Mary and the infant Jesus, is said to have tarried
when they fled from Herod. Of course, as you know,
the Pyramids, tombs of the Caliphs, and many of the
most interesting ruins are on the border of the great Afri-
can desert, ten miles or more from the city, and we went
on donkeys, meeting many a passing train of camels laden
with merchandise. Our journey out of the land of Egypt
was somewhat briefer than that of the Israelites, and pro-
ductive of less trouble to ourselves and others. On our
way, however, to the Red Sea, we watched with curious
interest signs of their route. We took boat at Ismailia,
through the Suez Canal, and at Port Said found the same
steamer we had left at Alexandria. Arrived at Jaffa, we
went to the house of "one Simon, a tanner." We found
not Simon, nor Peter, nor Cornelius, but we looked over
the house, plucked, as a memento, some of the "hyssop
that groweth out of the wall," and departed. At this
port, King Hiram landed the cedars which he gave to Sol-
omon for the building of the temple; but however they
were carried to Jerusalem puzzles one.
Although it is the only carriage road in the region, it is
hardly possible to squeeze more abominable roughness
into forty miles. A cart driven at hap-hazard over the
rocky pastures of Candia, walls and all, could hardlv pro-
duce more startling effects. The view of Joppa from the
sea is tine, its terraced streets and flat-roofed houses of
stone looking well in the distance': but, when there, one
struggles through the narrow, dirty lanes, and looks into
the caves they occupy for dwellings, with a disgust which
is not relieved by the tilth, squalor, and nakedness which
everywhere prevails. On the other hand, as we go toward
Jerusalem, luxurious gardens stretch away for a mile or
more, with hedges of cactus ten feet high and from five
to six feet thick, in full bloom : orange trees, bending
with golden fruit; and the pomegranate, with its crimson
320 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
blossom, forming a scene of unsurpassed beauty. And
now, on leaving these suburbs, we come into a land of
historic and sacred interest. Through the plains of Sharon
to Lydda, where Peter healed Eneas, to Ramleh, the re-
puted home of Joseph of Arimathea, where we lodge,
J. A ' O '
sleeping on the housetops ; thence on through old Philis-
tine battle-fields, the valley of Ajalon, k where Joshua
stayed the sun, and Anathoth, the birthplace of Jeremiah;
now we cross the little brook (David's armory said to be
near the spot) where Goliath was slain, and pass in sight
of where the ark of the covenant rested for so many
years, Kirjath-jearim ; also the house and tomb of Sam-
uel. All this time we have been going up, up toward the
mountains that lie round about Jerusalem, through lands
where every foot was once a terraced garden, but which
are now a most desolate wilderness. Within signal dis-
tance along the route are watch-towers, where live armed
men with fleet horses, to protect travelers from the sons
of Ishmael. whose hand is against every man. And now,
weary and shaken with the journey, we reach the last
mountain top, and see the Holy City, "beautiful for situa-
tion.'' Perhaps so once, when crowned with the verdure
of successful cultivation : but now, enthroned on a rock,
in the midst of a wild, mountainous country, it is bare
and desolate indeed. The walls, towers, minarets, and
dwellings are all of a creamy-hued stone, and though
pleasant in look, are yet unrelieved by tree or shrub of
living green, glaring in the sun.
JERL' .SALEM, June 12, 1878.
DEAR BROTHER : From the top of our hotel, looking
east over Mount Calvary, Mount Moriah, the ruins of Sol-
omon's Temple, and the valley of Jehoshaphat, we see the
Mount of ( Mives and the Garden of Gethseniane. A little
to the right, three miles away, is Bethany, and on the left,
TRAVELS IN THE EAST. 321
Mizpah, the tomb of Samuel, and the mountains of Ju-
<lea. Further on arise the mountains of Moab, and we
catch glimpses of the valley of the Jordan and the Dead
Sea. Westward, over the valley of Hinnom, the Hill of
Evil Council and Mount Elias are in full view. The
Bethlehem road, trodden by the feet of patriarchs, pro-
phets, apostles, and by our Saviour, in so many centuries,
is lost behind these hills; and in addition to all this is the
panorama scene of the city of Zion.
Xight after night, as we come in from our journeys to
these sacred localities, we go out into the moonlight, gaze
upon these scenes, try to recall the momentous events
these hills have witnessed, and our childhood's dreams
concerning the story of the Scriptures, until exhausted
nature commands us to our couch, there to dream over
a;ain these wonderful events.
O
At five o'clock in the morning we are in the saddle, re-
tiring and reading up on Bible history in the heat of the
day, and then mounting our donkeys again in the after-
noon. The order of our going is usually as follows :
first, a tremendous dragoman, armed to the teeth, with
a drawn sword, who clears the way ; then F. S. on horse-
back ; thirdly, E. on a donkey attended by a boy who
keeps the donkey up to time and tune, as he brays every
few moments with fearful noise. One day we thus visited
the Mount of Olives and (iarden of Gethseniane, and fol-
lowed what must have been the path of our Saviour, over
the top of the mount to Bethany. From this side of the
mount are visible the Dead Sea. the River .Jordan, and the
mountains of Moab beyond.
On another day we rode around the outside of the city
walls, beginning at the golden gate, passing through the
vallev of Jehoshaphat and that of Hinnom or Tophet, by
the tombs of Absalom, Zachariah, St. .lames, and the
pools of Solomon, well of En-rogel, and over the brook
Kedron.
21
322 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
The day we went to Bethlehem was crowded with stir-
ring experiences ; every inch of the soil over which we
passed seemed endowed with power to move us with in-
describable interest.
The plain of Rephaim, at the foot of Mt. Elias, is where
the scene pictured in the fifth of Second Samuel, of the
Philistine defiance to David, took place. It is so graphic
and so curious that I will transcribe it here : " And the
Philistines came up yet again and spread themselves in
the valley of Rephaim, and when David inquired of the
Lord, he said : Thou shalt not go up ; but fetch a com-
pass behind them, and come upon them over against the
mulberry trees ; and let it be, when thou hearest the sound
of a going in the tops of the mulberry trees, that then
thou shalt bestir thyself; for then shall the Lord go out
before thee, to smite the host of the Philistines."
Very soon we came to the valley of the shepherds
where they watched their flocks on that night when the
birth of Christ was announced, and then "in the way of
Ephrath," where Jews of the more devout sort were sit-
ting at the tomb of Rachel reading their Hebrew bibles.
Xear here "Rama" was pointed out (Matt. ii. 18), and
now Bethlehem is before us. How wonderful it seems ;
and how it carries us back to the days when God talked
with men ! " And Jacob called the name of the place
where God spake with him Beth-el." Gen. xxxv. 15. "And
Rachel died and was buried in the way to Ephrath, which
is Bethlehem." Gen. xxxv. 19. And so it cannot have
been far from herein any event. Bethlehem, itself on a hill,
is surrounded by other hills. Here David tended his
father's sheep, and here over these pastures still browse
the sheep and goats. Reapers are cutting the ripened
grain, women and children are gleaning in the fields; the
old story over again of Ruth and Boaz ; and here, too,
was the advent of one greater than all, the Saviour of the
world. Thev show us the manger in a cave, such a
TRAVELS IN THE EAST. 323
cave as is now used for a stable in this country, and as
caves are comparatively safe from the changes and decay
of time, I see no reason why this may not have been the
place. We rode back to Jerusalem by moonlight, stop-
ping again at the tomb of Rachel, where at sundown come
Jews all the way from the city to wail and lament their
fallen nation. At bedtime we stood at the " gate of
Zion," and what a change from the memories and thoughts
of the day, braying of donkeys, the groans of camels,
barking of dogs, songs and yells of Arabs, Egyptians,
Jews, Turks, Abyssinians, Hivites, Jebusites, and Periz-
zites ! As you well know, there are a thousand things
of deepest interest here that I cannot even find time to
name. The pools of Solomon, source of the water supply
of the city ; his garden, still cultivated and rich ; tombs
of judges and kings; r the tomb of David; the wailing-
place of the Jews by the only remaining fragment of the
temple wall ; and the place of the trial and the crucifixion,
I must pass now.
It seems to me that no candid person who has read the
Scriptures carefully, can travel in this land without having
his faith strengthened, though it had been never so weak ;
and, if strong before, as was mine, it will surely be con-
firmed if one's eyes and mind be open to evidences
spread out on every hand.
As we passed over the plains of Sharon where the
Philistines lived and had possession until David, and then
up through the mountains of Judea, where almost every
hill and vallev mav be recognized by the Bible descrip-
V .' O /
tion alone as places of repeated struggles between the
children of Israel and the idolaters, and, as we saw evi-
dences of once great fertility in these lands now desolate,
barren, scorched by the curse of God, as foretold in Jere-
miah, for the sins of the Jews, we feel that no further
evidence is needed, and that the Creator of the world has
kept his promise to the children of men.
324 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
Then, reading the history of Jerusalem and other cities
of this land, can anything surpass the entire fulfillment
of the words of God and the later declarations of his Son
as I see it before my eyes to-day ? Surely nothing more
is needed to confirm one's faith in the truth of the Word
of God. I suppose that the people among whom Christ
was born, lived, and grew to manhood, were just about
the same as to habits, manners, and morals then that they
are now. They are nearly all miserable, lying, cheating,
thieving rascals. To my mind no human being could be
born and reared in such a Sodom and be perfect as Christ
was. He must have been divine.
All the great natural features of the country have seen
no change, and can, for the most part, be identified from
the Bible ; but the works of man are buried in tenfold
ruin. In the cities the dust of the streets our Saviour
trod is buried beneath other streets to the depth of sixty
or seventy feet. The tops of Mts. Zion, Moriah, and Cal-
vary may not have changed ; but the strong foundation
arches of buildings and temples are overwhelmed and
hidden in ruin upon ruin, so that when they tell us of the
exact site of this and the other great event in the sacred
history, we are compelled to turn away in disgust.
In a few days we shall start for Smyrna and Constanti-
nople, and from thence go to Athens, from which place I
will write you again.
We have received very gratifying attentions from the
American consuls at Jaffa and Jerusalem, finding our
rooms prepared for us in advance, and our movements
facilitated in every way. We have kept in advance of the
mails, and have had no word from home since the 27th of
April. I need not tell you how anxious we are to get to
Athens, where we expect to receive letters and papers.
TRAVELS IN THE EAST. 325
GRAND HOTEL D'ANGLETEKRE,
ATHENS, GREECE, June 27, 1878.
I can only give you a brief account of our movements
since my last letter from Jerusalem.
Following the fashion of Jonah (Jonah v. 3), \ve went
down to Joppa, found a ship going to Tarshish, paid our
fare and went down into it ; but, unlike that prophet, we
were not swallowed by any great fish. A very small
creature, however, which has ruled in these lands since
David's day (see 1 Samuel, xxvi. 20), does his best to
devour us.
We sailed, or steamed rather, up the Syrian coast to
Beyrout (with but a glance at Cesarea, Mount Tabor,
scene of the transfiguration, Carmel, Acre, Tyre, Sidon,
Sarepta, and other places of note), where we visited the
American Missionary schools and college. After a very
pleasant interview with the Rev. Dr. Bliss and his charm-
ing family, and with the professors and teachers, we rode
some distance up the snow-capped mountains of Lebanon.
The great cedars which once covered the sides are no
more, but the wonderful view remains, and the inspiring
memories that make the story of this land so full of interest.
From Beyrout we touched at Cyprus, landing at Sala-
mis and giving a day to these famous antiquities. Once,
they tell us, Cyprus teemed with the active life of four
million inhabitants ; now, under miserable Turkish rule,
reduced to less than two hundred thousand. Physically
the Cypriote is a fine specimen of manhood; the soil is
rich and will produce almost any thing raised upon the
earth : the wines are particularly famous. AVe were
shown some said to be 100 years old; not being wine-
drinkers we tried a single teaspoonful only ; but " ' twas
enough." I would rather have one good drink of iced
Massabesic water than a hogshead of it.
You will notice that we are on the old track of St.
Paul again, and no doubt will say to us, ' l That is a safe
326 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
road to travel." Well, we expect to keep near it for
some time, and so our next stopping place was the island
of Rhodes, most eastern isle of the vEgean Sea. The old
city, now not much larger than Manchester, was esteemed,
something more than a couple of thousand years ago, say
400 B. c., as one of the most magnificent cities of the
world. And now we are sailing among the Turco-Greek
islands of the ^Egean, Patmos, Samothrace, Mitylene,
Scio, and many other more or less familiar names, inde-
scribably beautiful as we touch at or come near their ver-
dure-clad shores, ever and anon gaining and losing sight
of the mountainous coast range of Asia Minor. It is all
like a dream or a scene of enchantment, this blue sky,
these sparkling waters, the thousand isles, all celebrated in
story and song centuries ago, and I wish I could convey
to you just the impression it produces upon the mind.
Were they not all cursed by Turkish rule these places
would be delightful abodes still, though in their prime
when America was unknown and unthought of.
It is very surprising to find how imperfect and mis-
leading are all our American maps of this section of the
world. I mentioned these impressions to one of the pro-
fessors of Robert College, and found that ho fully appre-
ciated the difficulty and was at work upon a map to meet
the want. Map-makers in our part of the world must
conclude that any thing will do that they are able to sell.
At Smyrna, the second city in Turkey and the great
port of Asia Minor, we spent a very interesting day. It
is the central point of the Levant. It claims to have been
the birthplace of Homer, and is very rich in ancient re-
mains. The tomb of Polycarp is one of the first objects
which meet the eye on approaching the city, and this
country round about is the region of the seven " churches "
addressed in Revelation. To most people, however,
Smyrna is associated with figs, raisins, oranges, and
1RAVELS IN THE EAST. 327
lemons. Oftentimes, so dry and warm is the air, grapes
are made into raisins in clusters on the vine.
Before entering the Dardanelles we pass on the right, or
Asiatic shore, the Troad, the scene of the Iliad and sup-
posed site of ancient Troy. The changes here are not
merely historic hut ph} r sical, and the gradual depression
of the coast line has covered with water vast areas of ruin.
Then, too, the old cities have served as a quarry these
many centuries, from which Constantinople has been
built.
On the European side of the Sea of Marmora we saw
the Kussian army encamped on Turkish .soil, 250.000
strong, awaiting the action of the Berlin Congress. Be-
tween that and Constantinople are the soldiers of the sul-
len Turk, said to be 300,000 in number. Both armies are
well equipped, ready upon an}' untoward turn in negotia-
tions to renew the previous struggle. We heard the
sound of their bugles, and saw their muskets glittering*
O ' O O
in the sun lor many miles, from the deck of our steamer
as we passed up to Constantinople. Constantinople, city
of dogs, of untold and untellable carrion, and of rulers
worse than dogs, a literal stench in the nostrils of unfor-
tunate travelers and of the Christian world, without de-
cent streets, decent houses for the common people, or
decent any thing else that a good city ought to have, and
yet unsurpassed for beauty of situation ! The only com-
fortable ] daces are some private residences, the palaces of
the rulers and their harems, and the water. Xothing can
compare with its water and harbor facilities. We went
up the Bosphorus and the Golden Horn into the Black
Sea, and one day passed from Kurope into Asia and from
Asia to Europe eleven times.
AVe had a most enjoyable- visit at Robert College, and
formed pleasant acquaintances with the acting president,
Dr. Long, and the professors with their families. The
328 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
doctor and his two daughters did us the honor to become
our guests the next day and night at our hotel in Pera.
We heard with pleasure and pride of the very high esteem
in which our pastor, Mr. Davis, was held hy hoth faculty
and students while a teacher at this noble institution.
Another day was spent in a very interesting manner at the
American school for girls at Scutari. A reception was
given us one evening, at which were present the American
minister's family, the president of Robert College and
family, officers from the United States gunboat here, the
American missionaries, and other distinguished persons.
The position of Constantinople is, in some respects, -like
that of is"ew York ; Galata and Pera on the north side
of the Golden Horn, representing Brooklyn, and Scutari
on the Asiatic side, Jersey City. Our hotel, a very good
one, was in Pera.
Through the good offices of our minister we were per-
mitted to see what few visitors have access to, the private
treasures of the government, which are securely guarded
within the high walls of the old imperial palace of the
" Sublime Porte.'' Here are the spoils of centuries, pre-
cious stones, pearls, crown jewels. ornaments valued at
many millions of dollars. There were saddles, bridles,
swords, pistols, the splendid military equipment of Greek
warriors, crusaders, knights, and monarchs who have gone
down under the sharp blade of the Turk. Some of these
arms are valued singly at over $100,000. I ventured to
ask why the government did not sell these treasures and
so far pay its debts, but was told that, being considered
mementos of great victories, it would be considered a
national disgrace to part with them. God grant that the
day may come when the rightful owners of those trophies
may again take their own. We were constantly watched
by twenty-five guards while inspecting the treasure, who
never relax their vigilance. Some of the precious stones
TRAVELS IN THE EAST. 329
were valued at one half a million. Our minister, Mr.
Maynard, and his excellent family have been exceedingly
kind to us, gaining us free access to palaces, harems, and
the luxurious abodes of opulence not easy to be seen by
travelers from foreign countries.
There is an evident tone of depression visible through-
out the city. The common soldier fought as he was
ordered ; he is terribly beaten and obliged to endure the
sight of the hated Russian at his doors. This population
seems peaceful and orderly by habit, however erratic or
insane its rulers. The sultan has only mind and power
to support himself and his wives while the empire goes to
ruin and anarchy. The only hope for the people seems
to me to be in a vigorous protectorate of the Christian
nations. Notwithstanding its bad odors we left the city
with many pleasant recollections. A very agreeable party
of missionary and other new made friends accompanied
us to our steamer and remained to the moment of depart-
ure. We shall not soon forget their kindly adieus.
You will hear from us next at Athens. We have seen
the ruin that alike has fallen on religion and on fanaticism
so far as external monuments are concerned, and now we
go to muse among the dead shrines of philosophy and art
and to stand (in the track of Paul still) on Mars Hill.
FREDERICK SMYTH.
CHAPTER XXXII.
VISIT TO GREECE.
EX-GOVERXOR SMYTH gave his reminiscences ot a visit
to Athens more at length before the Athens Club, of
Manchester, by its invitation. He was felicitously intro-
duced by Joseph Kidder, Esq., president of the club, and
his remarks were reported as follows :
He said that if he had supposed any scholarly talk to
have been required, such as the classic name of the asso-
ciation he had the honor to appear before might suggest,
he should have declined the invitation. With no time to
write and little to think, he was compelled to trust to
memory.
After the usual experiences of an Atlantic voyage,
came a half-hour in Liverpool, a few days in London, a
week in Paris, followed by the run to Marseilles and the
steamer to Alexandria. As the passengers from many
climes met at the dining table, the question u Do you
speak English ?" was most gratiiyingly answered in the
affirmative by at least one half of those present, and in a
very brief space all were on the best of terms. " My
wife," said the speaker, u who could talk no French, be-
ing especially social with the chief officer, who could
speak no English.
' In twelve or fifteen hours, we sighted Corsica, Elba,
and Sardinia, and on the third day entered the Bay ot
Xaples at sunrise. With a brief stay in this beautiful
place, we kept on our way a little southeast toward Mes-
sina, touching at Poz/uoli and Puteoli, in the track of St.
Paul, passing in sight of Stromboli, the fabled mouth of
VISIT TO GREECE. 331
the infernal regions, and through between Scylla and
Charybdis, where on either side a stone's throw would
have touched the shore, and then somewhat farther out at
sea until the warm breezes and the birds reached us from
the shores of Candia. From thence, holding our way
toward the African coast, we at length entered the harbor
at Alexandria. The waters swarmed with boats. The
boats were manned by every kind of people, and we pre-
pared to surrender ourselves into their hands, as there are
no approachable wharves, and large vessels anchor at a
distance from the shore. It was a new and curious ex-
perience, the sight of this howling multitude of black,
white, red, and yellow boatmen, but we had a friend on
board who knew their wants and their ways, and who
piloted us safely to the custom-house. It would be inter-
esting to speak of Alexandria, but I must get on to
Athens, briefly as possible going over our route. We
took our way to Cairo, partly by rail and partly by mules.
The great pyramids at iiftv miles distance seemed, as we
c_> -L ' v
approached them, as large and as near almost as at their
base. Of course we paid our respects to the Sphinx, and
other wonders, before turning toward Ismailia, where we
embarked on the Suez canal for Port Said. We got out
of Egypt in a more expeditious and pleasanter manner
than did the Israelites, although we saw with great in-
terest their route in the neighborhood of the Red Sea.
"Among the many sights of a wonderful land, the
Suez canal is one of the greatest. In general terms, 100
miles long, from fort}' to seventy feet wide, varying some-
what according to the roll of the desert, and with numer-
ous turn-outs like a railroad. It is thirty feet deep, and
cost about a million dollars a mile. It shortens the voy-
age from England to India 4,000 miles. On our passage
we met English war transports having on board a part of
the India contingent. We had previously seen, in the
332 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
illustrated papers, these Indian soldiers, and got the idea
of splendidly-equipped men, six feet high or thereabouts ;
but the real article was far from imposing undersized
illolad, or with scanty clothing, they swarmed over the
decks. At Port Said, we joined the same vessel which
had brought us from Marseilles, and were welcomed by
the passengers like old friends. Touching at Beyrout,
Cyprus, and at Rhodes, we passed up the Dardanelles,
where the long lines -of glittering bayonets of the Russian
and Turkish armies were plainly seen. We passed a most
delightful day in Constantinople."
Relating a little incident of the landing at Cyprus, the
ex-governor said that, as a crowd of natives had collected
about the balcony of the hotel, he addressed them in a
volunteer stump speech. Their interest in the speech
seemed to be in proportion to their ignorance of the lan-
guage. He also, somewhere near this point, told the
anecdote of the lady who traveled, like many others,
without eyes or ears, and being asked if she saw the Dar-
danelles, replied, "Oh, yes; we dined with them/'
"Turning our faces towards Athens, the first point we
touched after leaving Constantinople was Syra, and here,
after many days under the crescent, we saw the cross and
heard the church-going bell. In about six or seven hours
from Syra, we strike Sunium, called the threshold of
Greece, where, in the midst of a desolate waste, stand
seven Doric columns of the temple of Minerva, and we
see presently the bay and field of Marathon beyond. En-
tering the Pineus, the harbor of Athens, the first eleva-
tion that catches the eye is Mount yEgaleos, where Xerxes
sat in his silver chair and witnessed the defeat of his
army and fleet in the Bay of Salamis.
"Athens was in its glory 400 years B. <:. It was in its
lowest estate just previous to the War of Independence,
about 1824. Twenty years ago, it was a city of 12,000
VISIT TO GREECE. 333
inhabitants; to-day, it has perhaps 70,000. There are
many fine residences, good hotels, and evidences of great
commercial activity. It is situated about five miles from
the sea, in the midst of a plain surrounded by moun-
tains Parnassus, Pentelicus, Hymettus, and yEgaleos
among the number arid opening to the Gulf of Sala-
mis. In the central portion of this plain arises the
Acropolis, -a rock three times the height and size of Rock
Rimmon, inaccessible on three sides, and with a surface
once walled in, 500 by 2,000 feet. The sky, the sea, the
outline of the hills are all unchanged, we see them as
Paul looked upon them, but all else is in ruins, many
of the grandest description. The first temple that we
visited was that of Jupiter Olympus, of which only six-
teen columns remain. A few years ago one of them was
overthrown, and disclosed the fact that it was constructed
in pieces which were so nicely joined as to be impercepti-
ble to the eye. The diameter of the columns was six feet,
four inches, at the base, and their height fifty-five feet.
The temple was 354 feet long and 171 wide.
" Nearly all the famous ruins about Athens are easy of
access, and on the next day we visited the These um, or
temple of Theseus. This is the most perfect specimen of
antiquity that the world affords. Its columns are all
standing, though some of them are thrown out of line by
earthquakes." The speaker here named one peculiarity
in the construction of the temples with which he supposed
his hearers were familiar; all the lines which in ordinary
architecture are straight, are here delicate curves, and the
lines usually perpendicular have an inclination forward or
backward, as the case might be. The steps of the Par-
thenon, for instance, were built crowning about four
inches. They hace not apparently settled in thousands of
years ! Smyth's block was built crowning a little more
than four inches. He had the curiositv to examine it on
334 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
his return, and found the rise only about an inch and a
half. "We have nothing in our city at all resembling it
in architecture, except, perhaps, the front of the Hanover-
street church.* The Parthenon next claimed our atten-
tion. It was built under the reign of Pericles, 437 B. c.
It is built of Pentelic marble, and occupies the highest
point of the Acropolis. It was 228 by 101 feet, sur-
rounded by 46 Doric, fluted columns, 34 feet high and
6 feet in diameter. Thirty-two of these columns are
still standing. I wish I could give you an adequate idea
of the impression this grand old ruin produced upon us.
Xo wonder that Joseph Cook staid there all night ! We
could only sit and look and question of time and old Per-
icles, how all this wonderful work was done by what
skill, what men, and at what cost 2,300 years ago! It
is uncertain how the Parthenon was lighted; some think
through the Parian marble tiles on the roof. We saw the
marks on the floor where the great gates swung open to
admit the sacred procession from Eleusis. During me-
dieval times, this, as well as the Theseum, was roofed over
and used as a church.
" Xorth of the Parthenon, and close to the wall of the
Acropolis, is the Erechtheum. One most remarkable
thing about this was the portico of Caryatides, supported
by gigantic female figures, and so skillfully are they
sculptured that the immense weight they bear seems to do
no violence to our idea of the strength of a woman. The
flow of the drapery, the curve of the limbs, and the grace
of the whole is inimitable. Three only, of the original
six, are standing. One is a copy in cement, replacing one
which was stolen by the English and is in the British
Museum. The copy is very inferior to the original. Xot
far from the Acropolis stands Mars' Hill, an elevation of
about the size of Rock Rimmon, where Paul addressed
the Athenians.''
The old church, which had what was called a Grecian portico and columns.
VISIT TO GREECE. 335
Perhaps one of the most interesting spots ex-Governor
Smyth spoke of was the Pnyx, or place of assembly for
the Athenian people. Here he saw and stood upon the
platform from which Demosthenes and all the great ora-
tors addressed the people. The area of the platform
alone would contain 8,000 persons, while the entire en-
closure (12,000 square yards) would hold the entire
Athenian people, 100,000. Of course over this there was
no roof, hut the remarkable purity of the atmosphere, or
the form of the enclosure with its walls, enabled one to
hear with ease from the extreme limits. To test this, Mr.
Constantino, a Greek gentleman and scholar well known
in this country, ascended the celebrated rock, or pulpit,
and Governor Smyth and wife were able to hear his voice
from the lower end of the Pnyx, even when he spoke in
a whisper.
The great public assemblies of the Athenians took place
in the early morning, at sunrise, and this laudable custom
is followed now, the people of the city being everywhere
astir at the most unheard-of hours.
Recently some very interesting excavations are in pro-
gress ; one, especially, of the theater where our visitors
saw upon the seats the names of Demosthenes, Solon,
Pericles, and other famous men. Here was where they sat
and listened to Greek tragedy. A large amount of money
has been appropriated for a national museum, and many
antique remains are gathered and preserved in the The-
seum for that purpose. When this project is carried into
effect, Greece will have a museum such as the world can-
not equal.
The ex-governor said that, notwithstanding the plun-
dering of thousands of years, the soil about the Acropo-
lis is full of articles of interest, for any one of which, as
relies, he would gladly have paid a hundred dollars
to have had sent to his home, but the distance was great
336 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
and the mails do not carry marbles. One day they visited
the Academy and the olive groves where Pluto taught,
and such was the climate that these schools were out of
doors, and astronomy was always taught under the starry
sky. He also spoke of the visit to the Stadium, or Am-
phitheatre, shaped precisely like a clam-shell. " The seats
and walls were of white marble, and it was capable of
seating 50,000 people in the day of its glory. Xow only
the shape remains ; the marble has been carried away or
burned for lime. AVe traced with much interest the
course of those famous classic rivers, the Ilissus, on the
southeast, and the Kephisus, on the west of the city.
They did not look to have been ever larger than the cem-
etery brook, and were dry at the time of our visit. It is
to be supposed, however, that in the springtime they may
be torrents of considerable force. Many curious and in-
teresting facts were mentioned which we failed to record.
It was said, for instance, that none of the temples were
set in line, but each by its independent position and angle
compelled attention."
As most of us know, the ex-governor is a very rapid
talker, and while we followed him along the " sacred
way" to the beautiful Bay of Eleusis, or to the Acropolis
of Corinth, or listened to the account of the heroic de-
fense of Mesolonghi, where Lord Byron died, it was diffi-
cult to give any adequate report.
CHAPTER XXXIII.
CLOSE OF KUROPEAN TOUR. IIOMKWAKD BOUND.
RESUMING the publication of the extracts from ex-Gov-
ernor Smyth's private correspondence, we have the fol-
lowing graphic yet brief descriptions of Greece, and of a
flying visit through Europe :
CITY OK CORFU, ON ISLAND OF COUFU,
STRAIT OF OTRANTO, July '2, 1878.
We are so constantly passing from one scene to another
that we find little time to write. My last, concerning Con-
stantinople, was sent you from Athens. We left the
former city in an Austrian steamer, and had a very pleas-
ant voyage, touching at several of the islands in the
Grecian Archipelago. One of them, Lyra, was the first
place we had been in since our landing in Egypt not
cursed by the taint of Turkish rule. Although we are
no Romanists, yet I assure yon that the supplanting of
the crescent by the cross was an impressive experience,
and when we heard the " church-going bells," as on a
beautiful Sunday morning we landed on this lovely
island, we felt enough of the spirit of devotion to wish to
join with these (4 reek Catholics in their worship here.
From Lyra we sailed directly for I'ineus, the seaport
of Athens, which is about five miles inland. Taking a
carriage, we started from the streets of I'ineus, eagerly
gazing upon the view that unfolded itself. On our right
presently appeared the bay of Phalerum ; beyond it the
long ridge of Mount Ilymettus, while to the left, in the
distance, the white marble of Pentelicus gleamed like
snow in the ras of the sun. Directl before us was the
338 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
Acropolis, with the columns of the Parthenon barely vis-
ible on its summit, concealing behind it most of the city
of Athens. The road passed over a part of the wall once
connecting city and port, and soon after crossed the bed
of the Kephisus, whose banks are lined on either side
with olive trees. As we approached the entrance to the
city, the Parthenon seemed to tower above it, while the
Pnyx, where Demosthenes addressed the people, and
Mars Hill, the scene of St. Paul's memorable sermon, ap-
peared to the right. The temple of Theseus, said to be
the oldest and best preserved of these ancient remains,
was very near the entrance. The vast extent of these
ruins, everywhere visible, impressed us with a feeling of
profound wonder. We were in Athens only one week,
and would like to have staid a year.
Three several evenings we remained on the Acropolis
until the sun set, and, in the glow of its purple light,
looked on the unrivaled beauty of the scene. Xo words
of mine can do it justice, and you won't expect me to try
it, but it is something to sit on a broken column and im-
agine you see the Academy of Plato, or to look upon the
plains of Marathon and the gulf of ^Egina, or a thou-
sand and one other things which only one well versed in
ancient history could enumerate. Xcxt to the Parthenon,
perhaps, in interest, is the ruin called the Erechtheum,
where, among other things, the portico of the Caryatides
is very impressive, the roof being supported on the heads
of six immense female figures in Pentelic marble. One
day we took a ride of twenty miles to Eleusis over the
"sacred way/' where the processions in the famous mys-
teries, or religious rites, took place, passing the temples
of Apollo and Venus. We saw here the temple of Ceres,
and also the enormous remains of the Pelasgi walls, an-
cient beyond ancient, until the imagination is lost in
antiquity.
HOMEWARD BOUND. 339
General Reed, our minister here, and his family enter-
tained us at the embassy, and were very attentive, adding
not a little to the pleasure of our visit. After one of the
most delightful weeks of our journey, we left with regret,
and took a Greek steamer for the island of Corfu, through
the gulf of yEgina and across the isthmus of Corinth.
As we left Pinvus, Mount Hymettus and the mountains of
Attica were lost to view, and Salamis, ^Egina, and finally
Acrocorinth rose from the sea. At Kalmaki we leave the
steamer and cross the isthmus, ahout four miles, where
ships were anciently transported from the gulf of yEgina
to that of Corinth. Here the young Corinthians got up
their muscle, and the Isthmian games were celebrated.
Corinth, which, like Napoleon's famous pyramids, dates
forty centuries hack, and has experienced the usual vicis-
situdes of these old cities, having felt the hand of Roman,
Goth, Latin, Crusader, and Turk, is now only a miserable
little village under the shadow of its Acropolis. The
Acropolis is 1,800 feet high and incloses within its walls
a much larger space than that of Athens. As we sail
from Corinth, Mount Khelmos on the left, 6,000 feet above
the level of the sea and source of the river Styx, with
Parnassus, the home of the muses, on the right, appear
in sight. In fact, mountains, plains, and river*, on either
hand, are all famous in historic interest, and could fill
many a letter, which time will not allow me to write.
We touched at Mesolonghi, celebrated in the Greek war
of independence of 1822, and the spot, of Lord Byron's
death. Three hundred Greeks here defended themselves
against 14,000 Turks for two months, and then by explod-
ing the powder magazine involved themselves and their
besiegers in one common ruin. It was bravery worthy of
Thermopylae
From this place (Corfu) we shall sail to Brundisi, and
from thence to Xaples, visiting Rome, Florence, Venice,
340 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
and Milan, on our way to Switzerland. On our return to
Paris, which may be about the first of September, we ex-
pect to go by way of Germany to Holland and Brussels.
Our entire trip so far has been delightful. I do not
think we have suffered so much with heat as you have in
Manchester, and am sure we have not felt it more than
we usually do at home during the summer season. In-
deed, our interest in all the lands we have visited has far
exceeded our most sanguine expectations, but Greece,
especially, with its incomparable islands and seas, its beau-
tiful architectural remains, its haunts of famous men and
gods, its shrines of poetry and eloquence, called forth all
our enthusiasm. But I must hold ; as we approach lands
more frequently traveled and strike into the great tide of
sight-seers, I shall not attempt to trouble you with my
impressions until we meet at the Willows. We shall
probably return by the way of England, Scotland, etc.,
and hope to reach home about the last of October, unless
sooner called by some unforeseen emergency.
PARIS, September 7, 1878.
I have ordered the chime of bells of Me-
neely & Kimberly, of Troy. You will remember that I
proposed to give a chime of not less than 5.000 pounds,
but finding that the heavier set would be very much bet-
ter. I concluded to order one weighing 7,500 pounds.
Probably the manufacturer has called on you ere this and
examined the bell-tower. ......
We celebrated July 4 in Pompeii, where we had the
rare good tbrtwie to witness the progress of some very
important excavations, and were among the first to see a
richly decorated room of a fine house brought to sight
for the first time in eighteen hundred years. The colors
on the walls were as fresh-looking as those put upon our
own house four vears since. We were allowed to take
HOMEWARD BOUND. 841
some colored fragments of this room. What a fearful
hour to the inhabitants of this house and city that over-
whelmed them without warning in one common grave!
A great space has been uncovered since I was here in
1862 : then a portion of the city about equal in extent
to Manchester had been brought to light ; now about
twice that space is open to view. I was told that the
gold, jewels, and ornaments that have lain all these years
mingled with the bones of the owners, have nearly paid
the expense of the excavation, though this must be quite
heavy, as the covering is from ten to thirty feet in depth.
From Naples I can do no more than indicate to you our
route. We remained in Rome a week and then went by
way of Florence, Venice, and Milan into the Italian lake
country, thence to Switzerland, crossing the Alps by the
Mt. St. Gothard Pass, stopping one night on the summit
in midst of snow, which, after the heat we had felt so
many days, was a most grateful experience. We ascended
Mt. Kighi, not unlike the ascent by rail of Mt. Washing-
ton, visited Altorf and the localities celebrated by the ex-
ploits of Tell, stopped a while at Lucerne, from thence
to Interlaken, visiting the Glendenwald glacier. From
thence through Berne, Zurich, and Basle into Germany,
making brief stops at Heidelberg, Strasbourg, Baden-
Baden, Frankfort, and Weisbaden, and then down the
Rhine to Cologne. From Cologne we made a run by
way of Hamburg and Lubec to the Baltic Sea ; then to
Amsterdam and the Hague, and through Rotterdam, Ant-
werp, and .Brussels back to Paris. Since leaving Paris
we have traveled by sea and land about KjHOO miles, have
looked on twelve seas, sailed on the waters of ten, passed
through fourteen different countries speaking as many
different languages, all of which we have studied and spoken
more or less. We have always found good, clean beds, fail-
food (though I suppose we have eaten cats, dogs, rats, and
342 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
mice, but as we did not know it, it was just as well).
Sometimes E., with a woman's curiosity, would ask,
" What is it ? " but I generally relieved her by quoting
the Scripture injunction, " Eat what is set before you,
asking no questions." We have not received an unkind
word, or one uncivil act, missed a train or boat, or met
with any accident worth naming while traveling by rail,
steam, carriage, horse, or donkey, nor have seen a person
intoxicated since we left home.
Of course, we have witnessed many interesting inci-
dents, not a few of them of an amusing character. From
the time we sailed from Marseilles, May 16, until August
8, when we met ex-Governor Gregory Smith and family
at Baden-Baden, we met no person we had ever seen
before, with the exception of Minister Maynard at Con-
stantinople and Minister Reed at Athens. As we look
over our wanderings, it is difficult to realize that all the
delightful people we have seen were utter strangers to us
when we left home. Still, I assure vou we don't forget
*J O
our old friends, whom we hope soon to meet again.
The places we have visited in England, Holland, France,
and Germany show very little change since T was here in
1862, but in Italy great progress is visible. Then Austria
held a part and the Pope governed the Roman States ;
now it is a united government under one head. The
people are pleased with the change, like their govern-
ment, and are rapidly improving in agriculture, education,
and everything that makes a happy and prosperous nation.
We found in Italy much better hotels and more comfort-
able arrangements generally for travelers than in Ger-
manv, and the people more desirous to make the stranger
within their gates feel at home.
At the time we left Paris for the East, I made arrange-
ments with some of my official brethren to do my work,
which they have kindly done ; now, in return, I am doing
HOMEWARD BOUND. 343
their work, and expect to be thus employed through this
month. We then hope to make a week's visit to London,
a few days in Scotland, and go home toward the last of
October
FREDERICK SMYTH.
Ex-Governor and Mrs. Smyth were the recipients of
many attentions from ministers and consuls resident
abroad, particularly at Constantinople and Athens. In
Paris they were among the few invited guests at the din-
ner of the Stanley club to General Grant, and were also
present at the reception given by the American Legation
to General and Madam Grant. With a trio of other
ex-governors, Hawley, Hoffman, and Fenton, he was
made an honorary member of the Stanley club.
Returning home, ex-Governor Smyth and his estimable
wife were warmly greeted by his fellow-citizens, and he .
was repeatedly invited to narrate his travels to interested
listeners. He at once " fell into harness," and resumed
his public and private duties with that unwearied indus-
try which is one of his marked characteristics. Among
the various public positions which he at that time credit-
ably tilled are the following : manager and vice-president
of the National Soldiers' Homes, president of the United
States Agricultural Society, trustee and treasurer of the
New Hampshire College of Agriculture and Mechanic
Arts, director of the Concord and Suncook Valley Rail-
roads, director and treasurer of the Manchester Horse Rail-
road, director of the National Agricultural Society, presi-
dent of the Northern Telegraph Company, president of
the Franklin-street Congregational Society, trustee and
treasurer of the Northern Telegraph Company, cashier
and manager of the First National Rank of Manchester,
trustee and treasurer of the Merrimack River Savings
Bank. Prominent among these voluntary services were
those rendered bv him during his twelve years' service as
344 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
a manager of the National Soldiers' Homes. Acting on
his often expressed idea that no man ought to take an
office of the kind unless he was willing to devote to the
discharge of his duties all the time and effort required, he
traveled many hundred miles annually on visits of in-
spection at Dayton, Milwaukee, Hampton, and Augusta,
and to he present at meetings of the hoard in Washing-
ton, besides giving his personal attention to the admission
of soldiers to the Eastern Branch, all this without other
compensation than that which arises from a consciousness
of duty done.
The ex-governor's long and varied experience in public
and financial affairs, in acquaintance with men in every
walk of life, and in travel abroad and at home, made his
conversation very interesting when he could be induced
to indulge in reminiscences of what he called his " vaca-
tions of a busy life." His house at Manchester was
filled with works of art and souvenirs of travel from many
lands, each with its story, and he entertained there many
distinguished guests besides his "troops of friends."
Successful himself, his advice was frequently sought,
not only on financial and political matters, but on a
great variety of other subjects, some of which he had no
knowledge of whatever. He always, however, cheerfully
counseled those who solicited his advice, and cordially
lent a helping hand to those who were trying to help
themselves.
CHAPTER XXXIV.
HOMAGE TO THE UNKNOWN DEAD.
AT the memorial exercises held in May, 1880, by the
Louis Bell Post of the Grand Army of the Republic, at
Manchester, New Hampshire, ex-Governor Smyth deliv-
ered, by invitation, the following oration to the " Un-
known Dead " :
Mil. CoMiMANDER, VETERANS OF THE GRAND ARMY, AND
CITIZENS :
You have invited me to deliver the oration to the " un-
known dead," and your secretary, the veteran soldier
whose name is appended to your very flattering invita-
tion, tells this touching story. No doubt there are thou-
sands very much like it, scenes incident to that war so
long past that were it not for these observances it would
seem but a dream.
Of his own brother he says : " Although I served in the
same company with him, and was wounded in the same
battle at Drury's Bluff, yet all we know concerning him
is that he was reported ' missing in action.' But we were
always consoled by the fact that the last seen of him he
was firing his revolver within a few rods of the enemy,
when nearly every man was on the retreat," And so the
young soldier fell in the line of his duty. I hear the guns
and see the smoke and fire of that great battle-field ; and
I see this young man fall in the midst, and vanish from
human eyes forever. And is that all ? No, Mr. Com-
mander and friends, not all ! Far better this than to drop
by the way out of the ranks of everyday life, no sacrifice
made, and no duty done. And why do we say that of
346 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
such are the unknown dead ? Are they not known and
remembered, and honored by the manner of their death?
True, they may sleep in unknown graves beyond the
reach of our flowers of May or June, and so we strive,
with whatever eloquence we may possess, to frame more
immortal and imperishable wreaths to crown their memory.
Whatever the most impassioned orator or poet may be
able to say or sing concerning them, I am sure the half
can never be told. In the ranks of the common soldier,
true heroism, unselfish love of country, pure devotion to
principle, were ruling motives ; and we know that as they
were oreat, generous, and devoted in their lives, so now
~ 7 o
the whole country becomes their honored and eternal
resting-place. In what little corner or on what old battle-
tield, under what stretch of ocean wave or on what
storm-racked mountain-side they sleep, it matters little ;
because everywhere the monument of their heroic sacri-
fices is seen in every noble enterprise and institution of
the country, and they are forever made a part of its glory
and its greatness.
I have said that such instances were numerous. After
the first day's battle at Gettysburg, and on many other
battle-fields during the great struggle, the dead were
hastily buried upon the field, and the renewal of the con-
test effaced every vestige of the trust committed to that
soil. But from such deaths, and out of such hidden
graves, come forces which make it possible for the United
States to become the foremost nation in all the world.
Unknown, indeed, is the spot, but not therefore un re-
membered. All the more we may never forget, because
the memorial is intrusted to our hearts. Too often we
raise the shaft and build the mausoleum, and then go on
our wav forgetting; but that which is enshrined in the
universal memory of mankind shall be handed down in
sonij and storv till time shall be no more. What flower
HOMAGE TO THE UNKNOWN DEAD. 347
can match the sweetness of their endeavor ? What laurel
wreath on any monument of stone or bronze can compare
with the beauty of the ideal that enshrines the memory
of those we love? And when can we forget those we
saw following the roll of the drums down these long
streets ? men about whom, as they went, a cloud of
anxious solicitude was silver-lined with blessings and
hopes and prayers. They did not all return ; but in the
households and by the firesides of their kin they have
been a living presence ever since. Their dust in some
unknown spot mingles with its parent earth, and from
thenceforth the soil of the whole country becomes sacred
with the blood of martyrs. The land, the sea, the sky,
we call our country, becomes doubly dear to every
thoughtful lover of his race, after a consecration sealed
by such a baptism. To-day let us remember the lesson
with peculiar pathos and significance. Voices from these
nameless resting-places do charge us to be good and true
citizens, to neglect no duty, and to answer every call of
our country.
It is not merely a matter which concerns us alone,
whether or not we fill our part in the great civil contest
in the land now and ever going on. The influence of our
action or the penalty of our misdeeds will be felt in gen-
erations yet to come. And how small the requirement,
how easy the task, compared with the burdens they were
compelled to bear. War, friends, is a terrible thing, even
in the best of causes, and no one who has ever seen
men fall on the battle-field, or who has witnessed the
cruel scene when the contest is over and the action lost or
won, will desire to resort to that dread ordeal on any plea
save that of the utmost necessity. It was not my lot to
engage in the conflict, but I have seen something of the
passions which war lets loose upon this fair earth. I have
seen men shot down, have helped rescue the wounded and
348 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
bury the dead, and I assure you that the prophetic vision
of New Hampshire's greatest son was in nothing too pre-
scient when he said: " When my eyes shall be turned for
the last time to the sun in heaven, may I not see him
shining on the broken and dishonored fragments of a
once glorious Union ; on States dissevered, discordant,
belligerent ; on a land rent with civil feuds, or drenched,
it may be, in fraternal blood.''
And so I cannot help but see that the strongest plea
from these unknown graves is for peace, and for such wise,
statesmanlike conduct as shall make peace possible, nay,
as shall make war impossible. What monument so noble
can we build as that of a nation devoted to peace ? How
can we give so great value to their sacrifice as by making
it serve the best and wisest of human ends, that of
spreading peace, not only between sections of our own
land, but among other nations. May God speed the
time when a great international court of arbitration may
settle all our serious disputes, and the great armies of the
world may disband, and turn their mighty energies to the
arts that make for the happiness of mankind!
We know the gloss that literature has thrown about
this deadly thing : but those who go down into this char-
nel-house of death know how cruel and horrible is the
reality. Peculiarly this lesson of peace comes from those
the manner of whose death was so impressive and so soli-
tary, so far from friends and home, and destined so to re-
main, and of each of whom it may be written, as it was
of another :
" Xot a drum was heard, not a funeral note,
As his corse to the rampart we hurried :
Not a soldier discharged his farewell shot
O'er the grave where our hero we buried.
\Ve buried him darkly at dead of night.
The sods with our bayonets turning;
By the struggling moonbeams' misty light,
And the lantern dimly burning.
HOMAGE TO THE UNKNOWN DEAD. 349
Few and short were the prayers we said.
And we spoke not a word of sorrow ;
But we steadfastly gazed on the face of the dead,
And we bitterly thought of tin; morrow.
Slowly and sadly we laid him down,
From the field of his fame fresh and gory ;
We carved not a line, we raised not a stone,
But we left him alone with his glory."
These, friends, are but the familiar lines of our school-
days, lightly learned and lightly declaimed then, but
invested with what tragic intensity and meaning by the
events of those sad years! Some of us have heard, as we
hastily performed the last sad service for some boy from
the Xew Hampshire hills,
" The distant and random gun
That the foe was sullenly liring/'-
and we have felt that somewhere, in some cottage home,
a mother wept for her " unreturning brave"; and we know
that the country for which such price is paid cost too
much to be carelessly bartered away.
I think much of this .\remorial Day, with its simple
and touching rites, because it does honor to whom
honor is due. On other occasions, and in other lands,
the leader is the man honored. The private soldier is
thought to have no claim for consideration, no car for
praise. To-day we crown the multitude of men whose
hands actually bore the Hag to victory. A little illustra-
tion may explain my meaning. At , a regiment was
ordered to take a certain redoubt. As the charge took
place, half a dozen men were seen a dozen paces in ad-
vance of the regiment. They fell, victims to the enemy's
sharpshooters and their own impetuous zeal and courage.
The armies swept on. Those six heroes occupied un-
known graves, at least, no one heard of them after,
350 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
and a brief line in the dispatches announced that Colonel
Blank gallantly carried the position. Yet Colonel Blank
was in no more danger than I, for we were together
in the rear. So, to-day, we call back the remem-
brance of the country to the bravery of that advance
guard. Unflinching, they went to the ordeal where we
sent them, and I suppose that in the exultation of the
battle-hour they fell without fear or pain. But ah ! the
dreadful to-morrow, when, after the chill of the long,
long night, the sun rises on suffering such as one prays
to be delivered even from the sight of.
Do not understand me, friends, as undervaluing those
who took up arms in the defense of liberty. I only seek
to show, if possible, how great the work, how severe the
trial, and how important the lesson we should learn. If
one can rise from the thought of all this and go forth no
better, no wiser, no truer man, then indeed for him this
great work will have been done in vain ; and were there
many such, we might despair of the Republic. But this
occasion, with its moving thousands, tells me it is not so;
these flowers that willing hands have brought, these trib-
utes from many homes and hearts, prove that the lesson
abides and is bearing fruit. As Israel turned and wept
toward the mountain-top where the angels of God had
buried her great law-giver in an unknown grave, so, rev-
erently, and with uncovered heads, we bring offerings to
our vanguard in the struggle through the wilderness.
With hearts full of devotion to the country, and eyes
clear from the mist of prejudice and bitterness, let us date
from such auspicious days a renewed determination to
make our heritage worthy of the sacrifice that preserved
it to us. Some things need to be guarded against. Let
us shun all drift toward any sentiment of violence, all
careless and thoughtless talk about resorting to the
sword to cut knots that calm discussion could as well
HOMAGE TO THE UNKNOWN DEAD. 351
unloose. Let us learn, friends and fellow-citizens, how
much nobler and better it is to deal justly and walk up-
rightly in all that concerns our dealings between man
and man, and State and State, than it is to allow wrong
to grow by insidious degrees until it hardens into ada-
mant. In such ways shall we rear a monument to our
dead that sleep in unknown graves, worthy of the great
cause of equal rights and of human liberty, and that
shall overtop the grandest piles of pyramid and tower
the world has ever seen.
CHAPTER XXXV.
IN THE AMERICAN TROPICS.
IN February, 1881, ex-Governor and Mrs. Smyth left
home for Xew Orleans, leisurely journeying by way of
Louisville, Nashville, and Montgomery, and reaching the
queen city of the South on Washington's birthday.
They remained at the St. Charles Hotel during the carni-
val season, visiting meantime Lake Ponchartrain, the old
Spanish fort, the orange groves and rice fields about, and
various other points of interest. Early in the month of
March they left ria Galveston for Vera Cruz, and arrived
in the city of Mexico on the 13th. The approach to
Vera Cruz was full of interest. Orizaba, which, though
nearly a hundred miles inland, seemed to be but an im-
mediate background to the fortified city and its strip of
sandy beach, lifted its head almost 18,000 feet into the
clear sky, and all things had the charm of a new and
tropical land. At Vera Crux, Major-General Ord and
son, who were en route for the Mexican capital by the
same steamer, renewed an acquaintance of some years'
standing with Governor Smyth, and with characteristic
courtesy invited him and his wife to a banquet at the
house of Senor Landero, the Mexican minister of finance.
The occasion was a very pleasant one, in which all seemed
to unite in making it agreeable to Mrs. Smyth, the onlv
o o /
lady present. At the close of the banquet, they took
the cars and with an armed escort proceeded to the city
of Mexico. "The road over which we traveled," said
Governor Smyth to a friend, " is, perhaps, as wonderful
and successful a piece of engineering as is to be found on
IN THE AMERICAN TROPICS. 853
this continent. It was twenty years in building, cost
$30,000,000, and is 263 miles long. The mountain por-
tion of the track, about sixty miles, is carried at a gradi-
ent of about 183 feet to the mile, until it reaches a height
of 8,000 feet above the level of the sea. This ascent
across ravines, over torrents, through tunnels, and around
curves, doubling upon itself like a coiled snake, discloses
a variety and beauty, a grandeur and sublimity of scenery
that surpasses any description I can give you. All the
while the mighty Orizaba, nearly three times as high as
Mount "Washington, is in sight. In the course of this
ride the great double engines, each doing twice the work
of our heaviest locomotives, take us up the steep grade
at the rate of fifteen miles an hour. The climate, as we
go up, varies from 100 to 55, and plantations of
oranges, pine-apples, bananas, cocoanuts, coffee, rice>
sugar-cane, and tobacco, display their luxuriant growth on
either hand in bewildering profusion. And then the
flowers, growing in perfect tangles each side of the road,
orchids in wondrous beauty, oleanders forty feet high,
morning-glories climbing and completely covering trees
like the largest elms, so that the morning sun lights up a
bouquet tifty feet in diameter, whose stem is the tree
trunk, and whose colors rival the rainbow : and in all this
fragrant scene are flitting birds of gay plumage. .Fairy-
land could offer no more delightful combination of
charms, nor Paradise itself display more beauties to de-
light the eye."
Our travelers were delighted with Mexico, the situation
of which is remarkable among all the cities in the world.
Klevated 8,000 feet above the st i a level, on a plain twenty
by thirty miles in extent, it is yet surrounded by moun-
tains so high that it really constitutes a basin inclosed
within a barrier of perpetual sno\v. The highest of these
mountains arc Popocatapetl and I/taccihuatl, 17,.~>40 and
354 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
15,705 feet in height. Whichever way one walks through
the streets of the city this immense mountain barrier is
visible, and seemingly not more than ten miles away,
though it is probably more than fifty miles distant. The
air there is so highly rarefied that meat exposed to the
hot sun dries without putrefaction, and, although the
drainage of the city has run into the dead lake for hun-
dreds of years, no such harm ensues as one would natur-
ally expect. The sewers have to be uncovered and
frequently cleansed, as they are only two feet deep, but
the city is comparatively healthy. The question of drain-
age, however, has excited much attention, and an appro-
priation has recently been voted by the Mexican Congress
to that end. The great lake has no outlet, and how to
pierce the mountain chain for a lower level is a difficult
and costly problem.
The climate was thought by the New Hampshire vis-
itors to be delightful the average temperature being
about 00, and the air tempered every day by the
cool mountain breezes. The air is, owing to its rare-
faction, sometimes difficult for dwellers in lower latitudes
to breathe (everybody breathes faster there than in Xew
England), but it is preferable to that of Cuba. The
houses are gayly colored, and many very substantially and
handsomely built. Such as are not white, or light yellow,
or green, are tinted with various shades of red : many of
the churches are pink. Three or four hundred yards of
a street in pink has a pretty effect, especially if continued
in pale green. A house in gray stone adjoining another
faced with blue encaustic tiles is, to say the least, pleasing
to eves which have gazed on dwellings of dull red brick.
The floating garden-beds that supply the city with vege-
tables, fruits, and flowers, are pleasantly spoken of by
all tourists: but it appears that these beds do not
move; thev are moored to the bottom bv la rife stakes,
IN THE AMERICAN TROPICS. 355
which themselves throw out roots and contribute to the
stability of the plats.
They visited and were much interested in the Roman
Catholic cathedral, which is regarded as the largest, most
elegant, most costly, and in every way the finest church
building on the American continent. It is 300 years
since this immense building was begun, and more than
200 since it was finished ; yet it does not bear the appear-
ance of great age, although nearly all the materials in it,
except the imported metals and precious stones, were cen-
turies old when Columbus first sailed across the Atlantic,
for it was largely built of the stones of the Aztec temple
that stood upon precisely the same site, and that was de-
stroyed by Cortez. It stands at one end of the plaza or
public square, and one of its corners is diagonally across
the street from one of the corners of the National Palace.
It is surrounded by a fence of chains large enough and
heavy enough to anchor a man-of-war, each of the stone
posts being surmounted by a huge stone skull, to remind
the passers-by, so it is said, of death. To enter the cathe-
dral it, is necessary to make your way through a score or
more of beggars, who are always kneeling and lying or
standing about the entrance. These people exhibit their
pleasant little deformities to you as you go in, such as
stumps of arms, and legs tied up in knots, and heads
twisted around sideways, and horrible sores, and beg for
charity. The presence of this brigade in the vestibule
keeps that part of the church smelling like an army hos-
pital, where the liniments and medicines and bandages
give a peculiar perfume. The vestibule is roughly made
of boards, and looks rather as if it might be the entrance
to a country saloon. The Mexicans have a remarkable
way of keeping everything about a building in gorgeous
style but one place, some doorway, or a little room fenced
otf, which they are satisfied to have in the roughest style
356 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
possible, sometimes even of unplaned boards. But once
through the beggars and the shabby vestibule, the Xew
Hampshire visitors found themselves in a church such as
they had never seen before in America. It is so divided
into comparatively small spaces by the numerous altars,
and organs, and other paraphernalia, that its immense size
is hardly apparent on the inside. It is a maze of gilt and
paintings and statues, and everything beautiful to please
the eye.
When ex-Governor Smyth was asked what character-
istics mark Mexico as a foreign city, he replied : " Street
customs for one thing, Indian water-carriers with their
quaint jars strapped across the forehead ; then all the
country produce is brought in on the backs of mules,
donkeys, and Indian men and women. Some of these
men and women will bring 200 or 300 pounds of wood,
coal, ice, or whatever it may be, from the mountains, and
you will often see a woman with an infant strapped to her
back with arms and legs free and kicking about, and this
balanced by a load of produce. These women are dressed
in a single cotton garment, certainly scanty at both ends,
with no covering for head or feet. The men of this class
about ditto." Trade was carried on mostly by foreign-
ers English, Americans, French, and Germans. There
are no manufactures, and the supplies of machinery, dry
goods, shoes, hats, etc., are mostly brought from across
the Atlantic, and paid for in silver. The favorite bever-
age is u pulque,'' which is the fermented juice of the
maguey plant, and by distilling it a fire-water is produced
called u mescal,'' which bears about the same relation to
it that whiskey does to lager beer. Fine fruits are raised
for the markets of Mexico, and there is an abundant sup-
ply of bright iiowers, made into immense bouquets, which
are sold very cheap.
The ex-irovernor and his wife made excursions to the
IN THE AMERICAN TROPICS. 357
notable places in the environs of the city, including
Guadalupe, where the treaty of peace was signed after the
war between Mexico and the United States, Tacubaya, a
favorite summer residence for both Mexicans and foreign-
ers, where General Grant, then a lieutenant, had his
quartermaster's depot when he was in Mexico with
Scott's victorious army. They visited also Puebla de los
Angeles, the pyramid Cholula, and the famous Castle of
Chapultepec, and, in short, left no point of great interest
unseen.
On the 13th of March they returned over the Vera
Cruz railway and took passage on the steamer City of
Washington for Cuba. It was a pleasant, summer-like
voyage to Havana, and they remained in that city two
days, tinding the climate rather enervating and the people
not so interesting as those they had left in Mexico. In
April they were home again at the Willows ; and for a
brief time there is nothing worthy of record, except pos-
sibly a little ride one day in June to the old homestead in
Candia. The governor, Mrs. Smyth, his only sister, Mrs.
York, and his cousin, Mr. J. Bailey Moore, after an early
breakfast at the Willows, rode to Allenstown and dined with
two venerable relatives, Mrs. Martin, then aged eighty-nine,
.and Miss Mehitable Smith, aged eighty-one. While the
noontide repast was in preparation, the gentlemen fished
in the Suncook with no very great success, and the ladies
in the house discussed old times. In the afternoon they
drove to Candia Xorth road, visited the old homestead of
ex-Governor Smyth, and from the summit of Hall's moun-
tain surveyed with a powerful glass the wide familiar view
so pleasant to them all. It was at this or some subse-
quent period that the ex-governor bought the schoolhouse
where he attended school in his youth, which remained
in very much the same disreputable condition that it was
in fifty years before, and ordered it repaired to serve as a
358 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
chapel for Elder Harvey, who frequently preaches in that
district. They drove home by way of the old schoolhouse
on the turnpike, where Mrs. Smyth had formerly taught,
and by the one at Martin's Ferry where the ex-governor had
filled a similar position.
Somewhat later in the month they accompanied the
Xew Hampshire Press Association, by invitation, on an
excursion to Saratoga, Niagara Falls, and from thence by
the Thousand Islands down the St. Lawrence to Montreal.
After the usual round of sight-seeing and a^brief time at
the Windsor, the party returned by Lake Memphrema-
gog to Manchester.
In September occurred the death of President Garfield,
and on Monday, the 26th, the day of his burial, the
Franklin-street church held a memorial service. The
pastor, Rev. "W. V. W. Davis, spoke briefly on " Our Dead
IIero, ;? Mr. F. B. Eaton on " The Christian Statesman,"
and Mr. Marshall P. Hall on " The Self-made Man." Ex-
Governor Smyth, who presided as president of the society,
spoke as follows :
"My Friends: "What a day is this! Fifty millions in
our own country, the people of the civilized world, and
some even in Asia and Africa at this hour are mourning the
loss of one good man. With us they drop the sympathetic
tear as his remains are consigned to the tomb. For the
second time in sixteen years this people and society have
assembled in this place and united in solemn memorial
services over a martyred President. Lincoln and Garfield
were in many respects alike, and yet how unlike. Both
raised to this high position without their seeking and against
their expectations ; both sincerely mourned at their death.
You have asked for some personal reminiscences, but
time will hardly allow. I may say, however, that it was
rny privilege to know them both well. Six[months before
Mr. Lincoln was nominated he told nu- here in Manchester
IN THE AMERICAN TROPICS. 359
that he did not desire the nomination, and had no idea he
should receive it. I saw Mr. Gartield during all the days
of the Chicago convention, and know that all his efforts
were sincerely given to procure the nomination of another
up to the very moment when the entire convention, as if
moved by a Divine and over-ruling hand, as I believe,
changed suddenly, astonishing all the actors, and none
more than Mr. Garfield himself.
"I first knew him in Ohio fourteen years ago, and every
year since have met him there and in Washington. He
impressed me as one of the best men in every way that I
have ever known. His genial and at times even playful
nature, his wit, which, like a brook from an ever-living
spring, seemed exhaustless, and above all the soul of the
man, which seemed to love everybody and to hate nobody,
and which yet had a perfect hatred of mean acts, made
him the most agreeable and instructive of companions.
He was a true and reliable friend, loved by all good men,
and especially by the friends and neighbors who knew him
best. Always true to his convictions, nothing could
swerve him from the course he thought right. He in no
sense appeared to lie aware of bis high personal position,
never seeming to think that lie was superior to his neigh-
bors or friends in general. I remember to have beard
him make a motion in Congress of a political nature
which I afterward told him I thought was a mistake.
O
Most men would have argued the question, but be good-
uaturedly said, '"Well, I think so myself.'
"But I must hasten. How strange that such a noble man,
raised to the position be was so well qualified to till, hav-
ing the confidence of his countrymen and the favorable
regards of the civilized world, should be permitted to be
struck down at the very moment when he seemed most
needed for the best interests of humanity. We cannot
now fullv understand this. You mav sav it is for one
360 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
reason, and I for another; but He who permitted it only
knows.
"I will only speak of one lesson from Mr. Garfield's life.
He once said : ' I must be true to James A. Garfield, with
whom I have always got to live.' If we are conscien-
tiously true to ourselves, we shall not need to make special
effort for influence, position, or favor; we shall be true to
our neighbors, our country, and our God. The world
soon finds out the man or woman of true goodness, and it
seems to me that, bad as it is, the world loves and respects
righteous men better than wicked men. This man of
humble birth and simple life Avas raised to the highest
position in the land by being faithful and true in every
duty he undertook. Let us learn from it that in God's
way true greatness cannot be divorced from goodness,
and that 'righteousness exalteth a nation.' '
CHAPTER XXXVI.
DINNER TO HON. MARSHALL P. WILDER.
A COMPLIMENTARY banquet was given at the Parker
House, in Boston, on the 22d of September, 1883, to the
Hon. Marshall P. Wilder, on his completing the ripe age
of eighty-five years. It was attended by over one hun-
dred gentlemen, including some of the most distinguished
i'itizens of Massachusetts and the other Xew England
States, many of whom were inspired by the occasion to
make eloquent speeches. Ex-Governor Smyth, on being
called upon, spoke as follows:
MR. PRESIDENT AND GENTLEMEN :
I count it a high honor and great privilege to sit at this
table with so many venerable and distinguished men of
Massachusetts and Xew England, and especially so on
such an auspicious occasion as the birthday of my hon-
ored and venerated friend. Although associated with
him officially in the United States Agricultural Society,
the American Pom< (logical Society, and other organiza-
tions, for more than thirty years, I have been his pupil,
sitting at his feet and learning what I could, not only of
scientific pursuits akin to agriculture, but of those graces
and virtues as well which adorn the civilization of our
time ; and, while revering him as a master, loving him
as a friend above most other men whom it has been my
good fortune to know.
The president of your Agricultural College has told
me how much Colonel Wilder has done for the schools
and colleges of Massachusetts. Why, Mr. President, I
consider Marshall P. Wilder a college himself, a <>;reat
362 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
university, from which has gone out to the people a
knowledge made practical by the tests of his experience.
To minister to the delight of the eye, or to the pleasure
of a healthy and refined appetite, is an object worthy of
any man's attainment ; and so thousands may bless the
thoughtful care of that public benefactor whose wealth,
acquired in an honorable mercantile career, has been de-
voted to such wonderful improvements in the fruits and
flowers of our land.
Mr. President, and gentlemen, I have the honor to rep-
resent here the State which claims the pride to be the
birthplace of our honored friend. The people of ~New
Hampshire to-night greet Marshall P. Wilder on the
eighty-fifth anniversary of his birth, and they hope and
pray that his life may be spared yet many years to bless
those who have so many reasons to bless him. And I
know they are proud to have given so good and so groat
a man to Massachusetts. Xew Hampshire once had a dis-
tinguished son whom she delighted to honor as a great
man at home, but it was said that when he was called to
spread himself over the whole land he was rather thin;
but here is one who, if I may so speak, has spread him-
self not only over our States and Territories, but over
lands across the sea, a genial and gentle ruler, and yet
with no diminution of his substantial presence, or in all
that is glorious and lovable. God still continue to bless
Marshall P. Wilder, until glorified above !
Perhaps no member of the Republican party ever en-
joyed greater popularity among our fellow-citizens of
Irish descent in Manchester than Governor Smyth. His
prompt action in behalf of Captain Ilealey is an indica-
tion of the quality that produces this popularity. In the
fall of 1888, the Redmond brothers were presenting the
cause of Ireland in this country, and one of them, the
CAPT. HEALEY'S RELEASE. 363
Hon. John E. Redmond, M. P. for Wexford, spoke in
Smyth's hall. The reception committee consisted of ex-
Governor Smyth, Messrs. John Hayes and Patrick Fa-
hey. The daily papers of the city, in their report of the
speeches, published the governor's letter to Secretary Sew-
ard, printed on page 208 of this sketch, with the reply r
and also the following remarks of Capt, P. A. Devine, a
prominent Irish-American citizen of Manchester, who
said that a gentleman had been selected to act as chair-
man of the evening, who, although not of Irish national-
ity, had ever manifested his sympathy in every possible
way for the cause of Ireland. As an illustration of what
the speaker stated, he referred to the incident of Captain
Healey's release from arrest w r hile in a British prison, at
the instance of Governor Smyth, and read the correspond-
ence as given previously. The result was the release of
Captain Healey, "which,"' said Mr. Devine, "the governor
brought about without having once been asked to inter-
fere; and this is the man who has rightly been selected to
preside at this meeting. I take pleasure in introducing
to you ex-Governor Frederick Smyth."
As the latter stepped forward, the report goes on to say,
he was greeted with a storm of applause that fairly made
the building tremble, and after waiting for the demonstra-
tions to subside, the war governor spoke as follows :
" Fellow-citizens : I cheerfully accepted the invitation of
your committee to act as chairman of this meeting, for I
believe in your purpose to raise up the lowly and op-
pressed and to break the bonds of the oppressor.
" The English Government acts under false pretenses, and
I remember not many years ago to have heard that great
man and true patriot, Wendell Phillips, speak of the Gov-
ernment of England as the most hypocritical on the face
of the earth. I thought at the time that he had made an
extravagant speech, but I have since learned to think dif-
364 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
ferently. I have seen that heavy hand laid upon Ireland,
on Egypt, on Turkey, and on other countries, and I am
convinced that England seldom does what she professes.
She sinks her claws into her victims, and never with-
draws them until forced to do so. More than any other
one thing, she fears the public sentiment of America, and
with good cause. I have been asked what, as a nation,
we have to do with this quarrel ? "Well, I answer that
Irish blood has been freely spilled on all our battle-fields,
and it sends its warm thrill through the veins of more
O
than half our English-speaking population.
" In the name of the people of Xew Hampshire and the
name of the citizens of Manchester, I welcome a repre-
sentative Irishman here to-night, and now have the pleas-
ure of introducing to you the Hon. John E. Redmond.''
May 30, 1884, Mr. Smyth, who had been a director in
its management for fourteen years, was chosen president
of the Concord Railroad by a veiy unanimous vote.
Since that time many important improvements have been
carried out, and others are in contemplation which will
make the road one of the safest and best equipped in the
country.
RECEPTION OF JAMES U. BLAINE.
On the fourth and fifth days of September, 1884, Mr.
Blaine was in attendance on the Xew England Fair, at
Manchester, and was the guest of ex-Governor Smyth.
In anticipation of this event, the house at the Willows
was put in readiness under the immediate and careful
supervision of Mrs. Smyth to receive whoever might
accompany the distinguished visitor, and the ex-governor,
with unstinted hand, ordered illuminations for the
grounds and caterers for the tables, that all honor might
be paid the Republican nominee for the Presidency. Mr.
Elaine made a brief address at the Fair on Thursday,
RECEPTION OF JAMES G. BLAINE. 365
September 4, and was afterwards given a banquet at
the Willows. There were present Governors Hale, of
Xew Hampshire, and Bourne, of Rhode Island, ex-Gov-
ernors Cheney and Prescott, Gen. R. X. Batchelder,
IT. S. A., ex-Senator Rollins, Senator A. F. Pike, lion.
Moody Currier, Hon. George B. Loring, and the Rev.
George B. Spalding, I). D. Mrs. Smyth, assisted by
Mrs. P. C. Cheney, did the honors. The weather was
hot, exhausting to the last degree, but it was observed
that Mr. Blaine was in his happiest mood, and that Mr.
and Mrs. Smyth never appeared to better advantage nor
entertained with more cordial or winning grace. It was
almost the last time that the lady of the house presided at
that hospitable board.
At 7 o'clock, P. M., a vast concourse of people turned
their footsteps toward the Willows. The moon had
arisen in beauty, the house was brilliantly illuminated,
and lights flashed from the tower and flagstaff. Electric
lights were displayed from the windmill tower on the
grounds, and a fine military band sent forth its inspiring
notes from under the wide-spreading willows at the south
of the house. Within, every room was thrown open and
made free to all visitors, many of whom examined with
great interest the stately apartments with their pictures
and furnishings. Some neighbors and near friends came
early, and were scattered in social groups about the
rooms. Mr. Blaine took his position at the foot of the
staircase facing the front entrance, accompanied for a
time by ex-Governor Smyth. Xear them stood Mrs.
Smyth and Mrs. P. C. Cheney with Mrs. Dr. Loring.
Gen. !{. X. Batchelder, Hon. V. 1>. Lord, Col. A. W.
Quint, Gen. Charles Williams, of Manchester, and Aaron
Young, of Portsmouth, acted as ushers. When the
doors were thrown open, people began to pass in in a
solid column, paid their respects to Mr. Hlaine, and went
366 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
out at the eastern and northern entrances. For a time
Mr. Elaine responded to the greetings of his friends with
his accustomed ease of demeanor, but, as the numbers
swelled to thousands, was obliged to withhold his hand
and answer with but a nod and smile. The heat and the
crowd made it a severe tax on his endurance. From
7 to 10 P. M. the tide was unabated, and many went away
without introduction. Many of the most prominent men
of the State were present, and several distinguished gen-
tlemen from other Kew England States. There was noticed
in one of the parlors an interesting interview between
Gen. X. P. Banks and an old soldier who had served
under him in Louisiana.
During the time of the reception, people sauntered
about the grounds in the grateful coolness of an out-door
summer night, listening to the music, commenting on the
ornamental trees and shrubs and statuary, or lingering at
the fountain, a good-natured, orderly multitude. It
was thought that at least 10,000 people passed through
the hall, and many more contented themselves with a
glance, and did not attempt to enter. At 10 o'clock, Mr.
Elaine bade the visitors good-night and retired within.
If one might judge from appearances, this was one of
the brightest of all the festal scenes over which the host
and hostess had presided, and yet a fatality seemed to at-
tend it. In less than six months three prominent gentle-
men of the city, all near neighbors, Col. Charles E.
Balch. Dr. Charles Wells, and William B. Webster, Esq.,
were stricken down by the hand of death, the two last
named suddenly, and also the accomplished lady of the
house.
On Friday, September 12, Mrs. Smyth had an alarming
attack which was thought to indicate paralysis. It
yielded, however, to treatment, and she seemed in a fair
wav to recover, but through the succeeding 1 weeks was
RECEPTION OF JAMES G. ELAINE. 367
not in her usual health. In November, Dr. William A.
Hammond, of New York, was consulted with some
slight, favorable results, but on her return home she
seemed to have taken a severe cold, which was followed
by an ulcerated sore throat. From this time her health
steadily declined. Her husband engaged rooms for her
at St. Augustine, Florida, where Dr. Hammond had ad-
vised her to spend the winter, but she never gained suffi-
cient strength to undertake the journey. With alternate
emotions of hope and fear, the weeks passed on. Her
attending physicians, Drs. Wheat and Robinson, did all
that their experience and skill suggested, apparently in
vain. Dr. Hammond was twice summoned from ]S T ew
York. Mr. Smyth, while manifesting himself the strong-
est hope and in all ways striving to impart to his dearly
beloved wife courage, gave up all other cares and was
rarely out of the sick-room. On Saturday, January 10,
after conversation with her pastor, Rev. George B.
Spalding, D. ].)., she was received into the membership
of the Franklin-street church, where she had been for
many years a constant attendant, and in the Christian
work of which she had been a ready and cheerful helper.
The next day, as her husband read from the Bible, she
retraced with mental clearness their journeys through the
Holy Land to places mentioned therein, dwelling on the
theme with evident interest, and in a few days more, on
the morning of the 1 14th, she was summoned home to the
Father's house. Xo words can tell the grief and utter
prostration of the husband, or more than indicate the
waves of sorrow that spread from the weeping u'roiip of
sisters and friends in ever-widening circles to farthest
shores.
Mr. Smyth carefully gathered and caused to he pub-
lished in a memorial volume of nearly 150 pages the
letters of consolation and regret, prefaced bv a steel
368 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
engraved portrait, sketch of her life, and the eloquent and
appreciative sermon preached on the occasion of her
funeral by the Rev. George B. Spalding, I). I). These
letters came from all parts of the United States, from
England, and from the East, written by statesmen,
scholars, clergymen, missionaries, and by honest, simple-
hearted, everyday friends and acquaintances, all testify-
ing to the charm of her life and the value set upon her
friendly regard. Mrs. Smyth in her early life was very
beautiful in person, a beauty which she retained in a
remarkable degree in advancing years. So much of this
beauty, however, was due to her manner and expression,
that neither the pencil of the painter nor the chisel of the
sculptor could catch and convey it. A portrait taken in
recent years by Tenney gives her queenly form and car-
riage, a bust done in marble at Rome, in 1878, reflects
something of the rare grace of her girlhood, but neither
these, nor the engraving in the memorial, nor the many
photographs taken from time to time, do justice to the
image enshrined in the hearts of those who knew and
loved her.
JOURNEYS ABROAD.
It was the intention of Mr. and Mrs. Smyth to have
written out more fully the incidents of their foreign jour-
neys and to have had them printed for private circula-
tion, as well as to fix in memory a thousand pleasant and
interesting matters connected with souvenirs they had
brought to the Willows. It was in pursuance of some
such idea as this that the following notes were taken,
Mrs. Smyth narrating them in her pleasant way from a
note-book which had accompanied her through many
climes, leaving to the writer the arrangement and the
verification of names and places. It was on the evening
of the 20th of December, 188-3, by a cheerful open wood-
fire in the drawing-room, that this fireside journey began.
. .'
'r- - ' V
/ /"
JOURNEYS ABROAD. 369
There might have been more of it to record, but tor the
fact that the note-book most prized was lost en route.
We sailed from Xew York on board the Canard Royal
Mail steamship Servia Wednesday, December 13, 1882,
in a storm of considerable severity, which lasted however
only twenty-four hours. The steamship, which is a very
fine one, took a more southerly course than usual to avoid
the gales which arc frequently encountered at this season
of the year, and made a very quick and pleasant trip,
reaching Queenstown on the 20th and Liverpool the 21st.
In the way of companions we were not without celebrities
of greater or less degree, having alive lord, who had been
shooting out West, Madam Labouchere, who gave up the
task of chaperoning the Langtry and was going home in
disgust, Mr. and Mrs. U. S. Grant, Jr., Mr. Sartoris, and
others. We made the acquaintance of Mr. Musson, a
Barbadoes planter resident in London, and doing business
in Montreal, of whom more hereafter, and also of an in-
telligent but somewhat whimsical German with a crick in
his back. His helplessness and alarm under this state of
things, evidently a new experience, were laughable. Our
definition of this malady as a '"crick" did not in the
least allay his fears, and what with tugging about after
him with wraps and little cushions for his back, and help-
ing him on and off with his obdurate shoes, we piled up
quite a formidable claim to his gratitude, which however
he acknowledged prettily enough in a letter from his old
home in Germany, received by us in Paris. The thoughts
inspired by this unlucky malady possibly may have sug-
gested the lines which he quoted while we were yet miles
from the great city.
O gleaming lights of London town
If tears your lights could drown,
Your victim's eye could weep them all.
() lights of London town.''
24
370 MRS. SMYTH'S JOURNAL.
London at Christmas is no time for sight-seeing in the
ordinary sense of the term. The whole energy of the pop-
ulation is spent on one object, and to this end everything
converges. Horses, drivers, passengers, houses, markets,
streets, stores of every name wear or bear the Christmas
green. There is no trade but Christmas trade, no other
travel or thought or care, and so we were very glad to
accept the kind invitation of onr friend, the planter, and
spend Christmas at his home in upper Norwood, a suburb
of London near the Kensington palace. An invalid
mother, gentle, ladylike, pleasant, nine children, beautiful
with the charm of good breeding, a house not large as
English houses go, but ample enough, with lawns and
shrubbery as fresh and green as in September, revealed to
us an atmosphere of home life altogether lovely.
There were many little things about the place and the
ordering of the dinner which seemed like a page out of a
story. The family, with old reverent custom, stood while
grace was said. The traditional roast beef and plum pud-
ding were garnished with holly, and the mistletoe hung
from the gas-pendant in the halls. Before dinner, in ac-
cordance with immemorial usage, we attended church.
There was none of that crisp, cold weather so much to be
desired, but instead we walked some distance through a
long lane and down a muddy road in a genuine English
drizzle. The service was intensely high church, and to
tell the truth rather drearier than the weather, but no
doubt allowance should be made for our crude American
notions.
At dinner the plum pudding inclosed a ring, a sixpence,
and a thimble. Whoever got the ring would be wedded
first, the thimble betokened an old maid or bachelor, and
the sixpence was for good luck. Afterward came games,
bonbons with mottoes, blind man's buff, hunt the slipper,
and other pleasant pastimes, toned down a little by the
CHRISTMAS TIME. 371
sickness of one of the sons at school, who was unable to
enjoy his holiday at home. Our genial host is at present
engaged in the manufacture of sugar in Canada, from
cane shipped from his plantation in Barbadoes, which,
strange as it may seem, he is said to do at a profit. The
day after Christmas is called " boxing day," and a fine time
we had in trying to find out just what that means. At
our hotel and in numerous shops we asked " What is box-
ing day?" and the answer was very uniformly, with an
accent of the greatest surprise at our dense ignorance,
" Boxing day ? Why, it 's boxing day ; " and it was not until
consulting Webster's unabridged we found that a "box "
had come to be used as synonymous with a Christmas
present, though why that day should come after rather
than before Christmas we are quite unable to determine.
The day, however, was quite as useless for any other pur-
pose as Christmas itself. But the great sights we had
done very thoroughly before. The Royal Hotel on the
Thames embankment near Blackfriar's bridge was near
many points of interest, and from it we visited the Bank
of England, St. Paul's cathedral, Westminster Abbey,
and on Sunday heard Spurgeon. It was rather however
for the purpose of rest and of taking our start leisurely
that we spent these London days. On the 28th we started
for Paris ri<i Dover and Calais, a short trip, and having to
the full Macbeth's quality of doing,
" It' it were clone, when 'tis done, then 'twere well
It were done quickly : v
The uneasy and fretful channel welcomed us with its
usual love of travelers. Like its neighbors it seems
desirous of getting the most out of them possible. At
first we were charmed with the alacrity of the attend-
ants who shuffled about the slippery decks with wraps,
tarpaulins, and bowls in hand, and were not a little pu/-
372 MRS. SMYTH'S JOURNAL.
zled by the evident delight they manifested when one of
the unfortunates paid tribute to the sea ; but it all was
plain when we learned that every such attention involved
an extra charge.
Paris fairly swarmed with its gay crowd on Xew Year's
day. Every conveyance was full to overflowing. We
made a few feeble excursions in the direction of the Arc
de Triomphe, and tried to take in a little of the abound-
ing vivacity and life of the scene, but soon were glad to
get back to our hotel. 2s"ew Year's does not seem to be
a day of the elite, but rather of the workmen, artisans,
laborers, common people of Paris who throng every ave-
nue, monopolize the public conveyances, and take pos-
session of things in a good-natured way generally.
It will be remembered that the year 1882 was marked
by some very destructive floods in the valley of the
Rhone. One of these it was our fortune to encounter.
We left Paris for Geneva on the 8th of January by rail.
Xear that city we had our first view of Mont Blanc, and
spent three days very pleasantly in the city of Calvin,
the time being lengthened by the washing out of a tunnel
on our road. We saw the house of Calvin, the church
where he preached, and his chair, objects which most
Protestant tourists ask to see. Leaving Geneva, we were
CJ
carried around the crevasse made by the flood in an omni-
bus. Our next night was spent in Chamberry, in the
valley of the Arne, about sixty miles from Geneva, a place
known to remembrance only as giving name to a certain
kind of dress goods in the market twenty-five years ago.
Such is fame. From thence by rail, in sight of the fa-
mous military road of Napoleon, through the Mont Cenis
tunnel to Turin, the capital of Piedmont, whence Victor
Emanuel came to give liberty to Italy. There are not so
many memorable things in Turin worthy of more than a
passing mention, but travelers find its miles of arcades
PARIS TO BARCELONA. 373
convenient for shopping in rain and in sun, the sidewalks,
like many of those in Paris, being covered by the project-
ing second stories of the houses. From Turin we went
to Genoa, perhaps quite as interesting a place as any
among the famous cities of old time, belonging to us,
moreover, by all the associations of the geographers of
our youth. If ever men could be tempted to venture
forth upon unknown sous, naturally it might happen here
on the famous gulf on the shores of the blue Mediterra-
nean. Most curious and quaint is Genoa clinging to the
hills, its streets all up, up, up, and down, down, down,
like the way in the nursery tale, and }'et its environs are
superb. Residences built of marble from the Sirnplon in
grounds gay with flowers and rich with statuary, the spa-
cious promenade on the quay, the old palaces and exten-
sive fortifications, all testity to the glory which even yet
lingers on Genoa the superb. It is only within a few
years that the peculiar costume which lent grace to its
women has given way to modern fashion, and even now
servants retain the white veil and discard the bonnet. A
specialty in manufacture is silver filagree work. From
Genoa to Nice, along the Riviera by rail, and in sight of
Cornice, as the broad, white road commenced by Xapo-
leon is called, is a most charming route nearly a hundred
miles on the shore of the Gulf of Genoa. Mentone. a
famous health resort, and Monaco, the little kingdom of
the gamblers, are on this way, where also are traces
of the Roman footstep. Xice is a very attractive place as
to position and climate, which are everything that can be
desired, but it is all a great hospital. Amid the flowers
and the ever-blooming roses \ve could but forget our
American winter. From Xice, along the Riviera still,
and for the most part within sight of the Mediterranean,
sometimes so near that we seem to be actually gliding
over the water, and the spray of the breakers strikes the
374 MRS. SMYTH'S JOURNAL.
car windows, we go by rail to Marseilles and from thence
on the coast of the Gulf of Lyons, across the eastern
Pyrenees into Spain, our destination being Barcelona.
This is one of the few Spanish cities which have retained
somewhat of their old renown as commercial points of in-
fluence. The province of Catalonia, of which it is the
capital, is filled with a people of considerable enterprise,
active in trade, commerce, and manufactures. Connected
by rail with the Atlantic, the riches of the Levant for
hundreds of years flowing through its coffers have made
Barcelona the rival of Genoa and Venice. While mainly
rebuilt in accordance with modern ideas, some quaint
customs remain. The night patrol, for instance, every
half hour call the time, devoutly commending all good
sleepers to the care of some saint or of the Virgin. The
wailing monotone in which this is done has an indescrib-
ably sad effect. Then the trades and industries have
their particular habitat, as of workers in iron and bronze,
some of which are very skillful, and the street of the
goldsmiths, renowned in the old time for the magnificence
and wealth of its artificers, and still worthy of attention.
There are also, as in all Spanish towns, great cathedrals,
and one novelty, at least, in the way of organ pipes,
which are horizontal, and seem, as it were, to bombard
the hearer. These cloistered churches were everywhere
' beset by beggars gotten up regardless and with ingenious
combinations of misery that defy description.
After two days in Barcelona, we left for Saragossa, the
capital of Aragon. The Spanish railway system is slow,
but we did, in course of time, across the barren and des-
olate waste of country, here and there diversified by
scanty patches of olives, reach the city so famously de-
fended against the French. Here the scene changes for
the better, for this is one of the most fertile valleys of the
Kbro. and olive proves, orange trees, and rich gardens
SPANISH NOTES. 375
abound. The work in churches and cathedrals is
especially magnificent, and the wealth and votive offerings
untold. The church of Our Lady of the Pillar lias
an image of the Virgin on a pillar of alabaster. The
power to work miracles is attributed to her, and the pillar
is believed by the faithful to have descended from heaven.
Such costly devotion, the evidences of which are every-
where displayed, goes far to explain the zeal that
prompted their desperate defense in 1808. We saw the
leaning tower called " Torre Xueva." It appeared to us
to lean nearly as much as that of Pisa, but we were told
that its inclination was only half as great. It is built of
stone, octagonal in form, and said to be of the mixed
architecture of the Moor and Spaniard. From Sara-
gossa and Aragon to Castile and Madrid, whither we
arrived on the 15th of January, not in the season, that is
to say, there were no bull fights and no legislation going
on, no riots or revolutions; but there was bedlam let
loose at the station, where an army of shrieking, gesticu-
lating drivers of street conveyances fought over us and
our spoils, and threatened to tear us limb from limb, so
far as any rational interpretation of all this tremendous
uproar could give their meaning. However, we secured
a guide who could speak English, who got us into an om-
nibus and took us to the Hotel de la I'aix in the Puesta
del Sol, Gate of the Sun.
The environs of Madrid are desolate enough, not a ves-
tige of human habitation, no shrubbery or trees, but a
sterile, wind-swept plain, hot in summer and cold in win-
ter. The plateau upon which the city stands is not of a
nature to improve the climate, but what nature has done
so little for. art, wealth, and the- necessities of kings have
made up. Our hotel was in the center, from which many
fine thoroughfares radiated, and a good place for sight-
seers. The fare, like all Spanish cooking, so far as we
376 MRS. SMYTH'S JOURNAL.
had any experience of it, was detestable, leaving but one
impression, garlic. The streets were filled with an infi-
nite variety of passengers, among which predominated
everywhere the priests, stout, rosy, well-fed, and not over
courteous in manner. Hidalgos, gay turnouts, splendid
horses, magnificent loafers in cloaks worn like the toga of
an emperor, and, as usual, beggars in every sheltered
nook or warm corner in the winter sun. One day we
caught a glimpse of King Alfonso. We noticed all at
once hats raised, people looking, and saw in a close car-
riage a young man in citizen's dress and stove-pipe hat,
with no guards nor outriders, but with driver and foot-
man. The finest turnouts, however, are seen upon the
Prado, a magnificent promenade most frequented in the
winter from 4 to 6 P. M., and in summer from 8 to 11
p. M. The- Madrelenos are very fond of the streets, of
the theatres, and the bull ring. They seem to have no
domestic life, in the sense that we know of it.
Among the many things we saw during our four days'
sojourn, some will not readily be forgotten: the royal
palace, too much like other palaces to be described, the
stables, filled with the most beautiful and costly animals
known to the world of fashion or wealth, blooded Ara-
bians. Andalnsian barbs, exquisite ponies, curly haired
Astrakhans, many with names the most appropriate and
beautiful, as Maris, the favorite horse of Mercedes: the
carriage houses, containing over one hundred convey-
ances of all sorts, sixes, and ages, presents from kings and
emperors, two from Victoria, one from Napoleon, great
lumbering affairs of state, one of which is said to have
cost over 00,000. The armory contains some thousands
of weapons, suits of mail, costly caparisons, etc. Among
them is tbe armor worn by Columbus. The bull
ring is an amphitheatre with seats for 12,000 people.
It being winter, this sport, or rather torture, was not
SPANISH NOTES. 377
on. To our American Protestant ideas, the
Church of the Atocha is a strange place. Here all
the royal apparel is consecrated, or blessed, whatever the
ceremony may denote, and here the royal wardrobes are
left. The wedding trousseau of Mercedes is here shown:
o
and after these royal bodies have worn the sanctity off
their garments, they are changed for a fresh lot. The
really line thing in Madrid, however, which is not
equaled in the world, is the picture gallery. All the
most famous masters are here represented, and some of
them by great numbers. As for instance, sixty-two Uu-
bens, forty-six Murillos, forty-three Titians, etc. Of
course from such a place, with time as limited, one could
bring away only the most general impressions, but we
remember better than others certain pieces of Velasquez
and Murillo.
The vega through which one approaches Toledo was
once, we are assured, a most fertile expanse, covered with
the palm, the orange, and the olive. It is so no longer,
but the absence of beauty here only serves to emphasize
the lordly position of the city, perched like an eagle on
cliffs inaccessible on every side save that washed by the
Tagus. It is one of the most characteristic- and delight-
ful places we visited. Komans, Goths, Jews, Moors, and
Spaniards all have left their traces here. Synagogue,
mosque, and cathedral mark the changing worshipers as
they came and went. The cathedral is one of the finest
in Spain and was commenced in 12:27, as usual replacing
a mosque, was 2(5(3 years in building, and is consid-
ered one of the best specimens of Gothic heightened by
the Moorish idea. (hi the outside of the church of
San Juan de los licys is a very singular draping of rusty
chains which, however, resolve themselves into an appro-
priate votive offering when we learn that they were taken
off Christian prisoners released from the Moors. The in-
378 MRS. SMYTH'S JOURNAL.
terior is very fine in general effect and in the grace of its
lines, and one of the cloisters, now almost in ruins, has
some exquisite carving, which even Xature, in its tracery
of vines and wild flo\vers over all, hardly excels. The
gates and doors in the Alcazar are also marvelous in de-
sign and workmanship in iron. Every one notices partic-
ularly that called the " Gate of the Lions." The famous
steel works, now perhaps equaled by more modern man-
ufactures, are yet of a great interest and command a wide
market for curios on account of their ancient renown.
We did not fail to visit them, and bought several speci-
mens in the shape of scissors, carving knives, etc. The
work is ornamental and inlaid in gold and bronze.
It was in the grand church at Cordova, if we may
credit the author of Don Quixote, that he bought from a
boy what appeared to be waste paper, but which turned
out to be the second part of that renowned story.
Whether anything more in the line ecclesiastic ever
issued from its wonderful marble aisles we do not know.
It was once a mosque, built or begun in 784. Its exqui-
site Moorish arc-lies stood upon a thousand pillars of all
the various marbles known. The roof was Hat, sup-
ported by beams of lignum vit;i>, which, after 1,100 years,
were found perfectly sound. The domes at present cov-
ering the roof were added in the early part of the 18th
century. In the course of its change into a church its
beauty was much defaced, but it is very wonderful
still. In one of the forty-five chapels they show a pillar
with a rude representation of the crucifixion, said to have
been made by a Christian prisoner with his nail while
chained there as a prisoner in the mosque. The Alcazar
must have been beautiful with its flowers and orange
trees, and the bridge over the Guadalquivir is another of
the interesting structures of this kind with which 'Spain
abounds. In fact, one knows not at which most to
SPANISH NOTKS. 379
wonder, the universal laziness and shiftlessness which
bear sway in this priest-ridden land, or the immense
energy and vigor, the taste and skill, which must have ex-
isted to produce such effects. Although there is now but
scanty vegetation in Cordova, and the conduits and water-
works are neglected, there are in the suburbs, or within
three or four miles, most beautiful drives, where the groves,
the rose gardens, and the vines, the orange, the pine tree,
the scarlet oak, the palm, the myrtle, and the olive, hear
witness to the veracity of the early Moorish historians as
regards this earthly paradise.
The route by rail from Cordova to Seville is charming
beyond description, all the way on the hanks of the only
commercially valuable river in Spain, the Guadalquivir.
The scenery, the country, the climate, are all at their best.
Xot only in its early importance but in its present condi-
tion is Seville interesting. From this port, or city, Co-
lumbus and Pizzaro both set sail : here were horn Velas-
quez and Murillo, and here are to he seen some of their
finest works. It is useless to attempt any description of
the magnificent cathedral, which seems absolutely fault-
less, and which, on the spot alternately the worshiping
place of the votaries of .love, of Mahomet, and of Christ,
seems likely to stand for centuries yet. The gardens of
the Alcazar are exceptionally tine and in good condition.
The Alameda is a most beautiful drive, where we saw the
ex-Queen Isabella, a pretty coarse specimen of royalty,
driving. She, however, had the courtesy to bow to us as
visiting strangers. We visited the palace of the Dnke de
Montpensier, whose great wealth has done much in Seville.
He lias restored a portion of the Alca/.ar, and allows vis-
itors access to his picture gallery and tine gardens. It is
said that he sold 10,000 worth of oranges last year from
his estate. He married a sister of the ex-<|iieen and was
the father of Mercedes, who was so sincerelv loved and
380 MRS. SMYTH'S JOURNAL.
mourned by the people. In the cathedral is buried the
son of Columbus, a man of noble character, who be-
queathed his library to the city. Among the many
curious things we saw was the house built by a certain Mar-
quis of Tariffa, in 1578, who made a pilgrimage to Jerusalem
and brought home enough of the sacred soil on which to
found this, which he claims to be an exact reproduction
of the house of Pilate.
At our hotel we encountered an English artist, who
rendered us much assistance, and one day asked us if we
would not like to see the gypsies in their haunts. To get up
one of their characteristic dances, it was only necessary
to expend a couple of dollars for a little of the country
wine and to keep out intruders. He had some splendid
models, who were at his service for any such affair and
who would be only too happy to oblige him. Of course
we made haste to avail ourselves of his offer. He there-
fore previously went among them and selected some half
dozen of the handsomest girls, charging them to put on
no finery, but to appear in their characteristic, everyday
costume. Their music consisted of something like the
guitar and the castanets, and they all played while keep-
ing time to their movements. Some of them were really
superb in their dark-eyed beauty, which, however, was
not altogether of a saintly character. They would dance
awhile singly, then sip a little of the wine, smoking
meantime a cigarette, then dance again, and so on. It
was not to our taste greatly attractive, but as a character-
istic act of the genuine Spanish gypsy had an interest of
its own.
Seville, of course, abounds in souvenirs of the great
navigator: here is his monument erected by his son, here
the identical log-book which he kept on board the Pinta.
From Seville we turned our faces eastward to the last
stronghold of the Moors in Spain, where for more than
SPANISH MOTES. 381
two centuries they made the place a center of all that
was beautiful and luxurious in Eastern civilization, arts,
commerce, learning, agriculture, and wonderful architec-
ture, all hearing witness to the vigor of their civil policy,
the skill of their artisans, and the charm of their poetic
fancy. It is idle to attempt any description where count-
less pens have tailed to convey the impression which only
sight can give, hut we will try to save from our note-hook
some of the things that made our four days' stay in Gran-
ada the pleasantest of the whole journey. To begin
with, the route from Seville was full of interest, through
rich vegas, the orange and the palm on either side, de-
lightful mountain scenery, the latter part by numerous
tunnels and bridges across the Sierra Nevada, whose cool
breezes temper the summer heat of Granada. Arriving
at the town, we were driven to the Washington Irving
Hotel in the grounds of the Alhambra. The town, or
city, stands on four hills at the extremity of a beautiful
plain, divided by the rivers ])arro and Genii. It rises
like an amphitheatre from the river, and the height (2,245
feet above the sea) is crowned by the Alhambra, The
plain, or vega, one of the most fertile spots in the world,
stretches away thirty miles to the foot-hills of the Sierras.
The Alhambra is situated on the western spur of a ridge
which divides the two rivers above named and is itself cleft
from the other terrace of the ridge by a deep ravine. At the
hotel we staid four days and as far as possible studied the
beauty of the Hall of Ambassadors, Court of the Lions,
Hall of the Abencerrages, the Queen's Boudoir, and, in
short, all the objects to be seen, only with regret that we
had not more time.
Xever to be forgotten was a view by moonlight,
neither the trouble which we were at to get that view.
It will be understood that the hotel occupied a level
space close under the walls of the inclosure outside. To
382 MRS. SMYTH'S JOURNAL.
get through the walls after the regulation hour (4 P. M.)
required numerous fees, much persuasion, a pass from the
governor, and unlimited patience. Armed with our pass,
we sallied forth with our guide, hammered away loudly
at the gate, and called and shouted for a long time in
vain. All was as fast as though we were armed besiegers.
At last, in a distant quarter above us, a window was
opened, a parley ensued between the keepers and the
guide, a woman bare-footed came shuffling along the cool
floors, the gateway was made free, and we entered. It
appears that the custody of the entire affair is in the
hands of a woman and her daughter, who were naturally
cautious about letting in strangers at night. The beauty
of the scene, however, repaid all our trouble. The white
moonlight, the deep shadows, the vast towers, the musical
trickle of the fountains, combined to impress it indelibly
upon our memories.
The outer, or fortress walls, are on an average 6 feet
thick by 30 high, supported at intervals by buttresses and
towers. They inclose an area 2,430 feet long by 674 feet
in the widest part, and are all of a deep orange red, that
being the color of the flint, red earth, and lime of which
they are composed, when baked in the sun. As is the
case in many ruins, time has dealt more kindly with them
than the hand of man. The French, when they gave up
the place, attempted to blow up the walls, and earlier still
and worse, Charles V destroyed half of the Palace of the
Sultans in order to build one for himself, which he did
not complete. Here were apartments for summer and for
winter use, the former overhanging the Darro and com-
manding a view of the Sierras. Here are preserved the
archives of the Alhambra and two exquisitely wrought
marble slabs supposed to have been tables. The princi-
pal entrance to the Alhambra is called the " Gate of Judg-
ment.'' It is in a square tower, and the outer horse-shoe
SPANISH NOTES. 383
arch is 28 feet high, above which is carved part of an
arm and outstretched hand pointing upward. On the sec-
ond, or inner arch, is a symbolic key. The legend runs
that no invader could ever take the place until the hand
should grasp the key and unlock the gate. Here, in
accordance with Eastern usage, was held the open air
court of the Caliphs.
The Hall of the Ambassadors, or throne room of
the Sultan, occupies the entire area of the tower of Co-
mares. A beautiful dado of colored tiles surrounds the
walls, above which are a series of oval medallions with
inscriptions ; then follow the windows, three on each
facade. The ceiling is beautifully inlaid with white, blue,
and gold in circles, crowns, and stars. The artists were
Persian. Next in importance to this is esteemed the
Court of the Lions, so called from the central fountain
supported on the backs of twelve lions cut in white mar-
ble. The main basin is 10| feet in diameter and 2 feet
deep, of alabaster. The court is 126 by 73 feet, surrounded
by a gallery supported on 124 marble columns. These
pillars are irregularly placed, singly and in pairs. A
pavilion, with domed roof and curiously wrought filagree
walls through which the blue sky appears like a back-
ground, projects into the court on each extremity.
The Hall of the Abencerrages is so called from the
massacre of the chiefs of an entire tribe of that name by
Boabdil, a piece of vengeance, however, which did not
save him his throne. Its arches and roof are especially
beautiful, and the view thence to the Court of Lions very
charming. East of the Court of Lions is a long gallery
divided into alcoves and called the " Council Room of Jus-
tice/' The ornamentation, the arches, and the general
finish are surprisingly beautiful and airy, like woven lace
petrified in marble. In one of the domes of the recesses
in the south wall are some very curious paintings of long-
384 MRS. SMYTH'S JOURNAL.
bearded Moors. Inasmuch as portrait painters were at a
discount among Mohammedans, the critics are sorely
divided as to who was the author. An evidence of the lux-
urious life led by the Moors is the Queen's Boudoir,
so called, a room about nine feet square, in one corner of
which is a marble slab perforated with sixteen holes to
admit perfumes. But these are among some of many
wonderful things which we can only remember as the
incidents of a beautiful dream.
The cultivation of the vega and of the terraced slopes
of the ridge is conducted mainly through irrigation. The
Moors proved themselves to be skillful engineers. At
present, the use of the water which is brought from the
Darro is strictly regulated by the bell in the Torre del
Vega, which is struck once in live minutes every night
from to 4. One farmer can use it just so long and then
shuts his sluiceway for the next. We visited the old man
who keeps the tower. For a thousand years or so, who-
ever struck the bell had either to ascend the stairway
every live minutes or remain there all night. Within a
year some genius has conceived the idea of cutting holes
through the ceiling and attaching a rope to the striker so
the old man can do his duty as he lies in bed. Verily,
the world moves ! The second of January, which is the
day when Granada was taken by the Catholic kings, is a
festival, and the young girls in the vicinity repair to the
bell tower between the hours of 3 and 4 p. M., and each
strikes the bell once. This is believed to insure them a
husband.
There are a thousand things one must leave unsaid, but
a word must be given to the palace and gardens of the
Generalife. The garden walks are lined with oleanders,
cypress trees, and myrtle hedges. On one of these ter-
races is what is called the " Court of Cypresses;" one of
the trees, called "La Sultana,' 3 is said to have been two
SPANISH NOTES. 385
centuries old in the time of Boabdil. The grapevines
have stems as thiek as a tree, and date hack to the Moors.
From the principal hall here we passed through a little
gate up to the Silla del Moro, a hill on which are some
vestiges of another palace which Moorish writers assert
to have been far superior to the Alhambra. From this
point is a view down the valley of the Darro, where are
the gypsy quarters, a wild and here untamable race, who
burrow in the hillsides like rabbits. It ought perhaps to
be named that we saw at the Generalife, which is in pos-
session of a descendant of the uncle of Boabdil, the
sword which failed to secure that unlucky ruler in his
seat.
After the Alhambra the city seems commonplace, al-
though in the Church of the Kings are some beautiful
tombs with marble effigies, true likenesses of Ferdinand
and Isabella and other great notabilities of Spain. It was a
curious coincidence that the new world was discovered
and Granada surrendered in the same year. We took a
drive of some twenty miles through the environs, and
were enchanted with the scenery, beauty, and fertility of
the country; and everywhere we were impressed with the
prodigal bounty of ISTature and the everlasting laziness of
man. Such exhilaration in the air, it was a joy to
breathe, and we climbed, without effort, cliffs and ter-
races which we should not think of attempting at home.
The old Moorish mills with picturesque water-wheels, the
system of irrigation, the little country inns where simple,
cooling drinks could be had, the groves, the 1 hedges, the
flower gardens, all things conspired to make us regret
leaving Andalusia more than any other place we visited.
But time, though of so little account to these children
of the sun, had yet some value to us, and so we took the
train for Malaga, the nearest port on the Mediterranean.
All the way it skirted the Sierras, and we reached the
386 MRS. SMYTH'S JOURNAL.
streets of hot, dirty, dusty Malaga after an interesting
ride. The United States consul called on us very soon,
and with his amiable wife paid us many attentions. In
the evening we were invited to his house near by, and
needed no wraps and but the thinnest of our apparel on
the 26th of January. Xext day we took them to ride
with us, and our entire route lay through the bed of a
waterless river, which in the time of rains would be a
swollen torrent. There are some fine gardens, and the
Alameda on the beach is a much frequented resort.
Grapes were drying about on the ground in the raisin
-country; and our consul sought to prove to us the excel-
lence of the wine here produced, and presented us with a
bottle to take along, which he assured us was fifty years
old. However that might have been, it was the means of
grave complications at the custom house at Gibraltar,
where, contrary to some other people, they are " agin the
Jaw" but in favor of its enforcement.
CHAPTER XXXVII.
GIBRALTAR AND TANGIER.
WE took steamer for Gibraltar, where we arrived one
morning and waked up to find ourselves facing an im-
mense rock which, lion-like, rises out of the water and
looks toward the dark continent. It was with immeasur-
able content, after the slipshod ways of the people we had
left, to come upon order, cleanliness, and a straightforward
style of doing. We could even pardon red tape and
overmuch military precision. At the custom house, the
vigilant officer fell upon our bottle of fifty-year-old Mal-
aga, which was carried in a hand basket with other indis-
pensable articles. Viewing it with severe aspect, he
coolly took possession of it in the name of her Majesty.
It was represented to him that it was a present from our
consul, that we were American travelers with no feloni-
ous purposes of traffic ; but it was of no use, it could
not be taken on shore, so we left it and proceeded onward;
but, mirabile dictti, when we returned there it was intact,
and was formally delivered into our charge.
Gibraltar recalls to mind the old negro melody, " such
a gittin' up stairs." The houses are built into the sides
of the cliff by the narrow pass, for it is hardly more, in a
most curious way. In that of the American consul, for
instance, as we entered from the street, the first floor was
devoted to sundry domestic purposes, up another flight to
the reception room, and up another to the dining room,
all built into the rock. In this nest lie had been perched
for twenty-five years or more, and brought up a family of
daughters who were sent to France to be educated, all of
388 MRS. SMYTH'S JOURNAL.
whom thought Gibraltar a good place to be in. One Sun-
day morning we were awakened by the sound of military
music, and looking out of our windows saw a company of
redcoats, as stiff, clean, and orderly as drill could make
them, with prayer-books in hand, on the way to church.
This they have to do in relays, as the churches are not
large enough to hold all the garrison at once. When we
turned out ourselves for the same purpose, we Avent up
steps cut in the rock; and of course the only mode of
riding is upon donkeys. They have some little beasts
of that ilk with cradle saddles adapted to the most deli-
cate nerves.
The marvel of Gibraltar is its fortifications, and they
were mounting a new and most formidable gun while we
were there, to keep abreast with modern progress. Up
above all the stairways a colony of monkeys exist which
have been there no one knows how long, and their like is
found only in Africa ; hence some say the land once ex-
tended across the strait. They are obliged to come down
to get a drink, and it is lucky that they want nothing but
water. It is amusing to see them in their sports, and they
are very carefully protected in their rights, an impor-
tant matter, as means of entertainment cannot be too
plentiful on that stronghold. Some of the chambers cut
in the rock are quite large, and in one called King
George's they sometimes have balls. The view from the
highest point is very extensive, including the shores of
two continents.
We took the steamer which plies between Gibraltar and
Tangier on the 29th ; passing in sight of Point Trafalgar,
the scene of Xelson's famous fight, we soon reach a new
and strange land where the sky and sea and distant moun-
tain chain of Gcbel Muza seem fitting environments to
the walled city of the pirates, and the swarming boat-loads
of bronzed and black yelling and shrieking men of the
AFRICAN DAYS. 389
East. The landing is a feat not to be lightly regarded,
and it only seems a question whether we are to be drowned
at once in the boiling, surging waves, or violently rescued
at the hands of the villainous looking crowd around.
But at last we land. It is a time of unusual stir and tu-
mult, in fact the fete, feast, or fast of the circumcision,
so the neighboring tribes, and even those as far distant as
Fez, had come with children in droves. Everywhere the
streets were full, every available open space covered with
the wild-looking caravans of the desert, scores of camels,
donkeys without number, mounted horsemen in groups,
in squads, in companies, Moorish cavaliers superbly
mounted charging like the wind in the most unexpected di-
rections, firing recklessly into or above the crowd as might
happen ; narrow and indescribably dirty streets, bordered
by little bazaars, right out of the Arabian nights, where
were spices, soaps, oils, sweetmeats, silver work, cobblers
leisurely stitching, in the market-place women from the
interior wearing coarse straw hats with enormous brims,
in short, a confused medley of the strangest and most
fantastic things and creatures we had ever imagined; and
over all the hot and burning sky of Morocco.
But even here where a half barbarism was still rife, the
advancing wave of civilization was pushing its way on the
shore. A comfortable French hotel sheltered us from
the hot sun and the hideous din, a good guide was readily
engaged to show us the true inwardness of things, and
we were prepared to do Tangier. AVe had along with
us an amiable young English curate, who was not only
astonished but actually afraid of the fierce looking sheiks
in their mad sorties, and who involuntarily, no doubt,
took shelter on the side of us which promised the greatest
immunity from danger. Everywhere about the streets
were what would correspond to the side shows of our
fairs, slave dances, where the lazy old tyrant who ex-
390 MRS. SMYTH'S JOURNAL.
hibited them for sale sat on the ground in their midst and
forced them to dance till they dropped from sheer exhaus-
tion ; then the snake charmers displayed their writhing,
horrible pets; and anon comes riding down the midst on a
tine donkey, with numerous attendants clad in white, with
a denser howling crowd about him, if possible, than we
had seen before, El Sherif, or the religious ruler, a man
of fine physique and commanding presence, to get a fair
sight of whom our curate actually pressed forward into
the throng at imminent risk at least of his corns. El
Sherif was accompanied by a beautiful boy. He was said
to be a much-married man, his harem counting up to
thousands. A story is told of an English woman employed
as a teacher in Tangier who became infatuated with this
descendant of the prophet and consented to become, as
she made him promise, his last, but the fickle Moor, after
his usual length of time, again and again broke his
promise, leaving the foolish woman broken-hearted and
yet shut in a prison from which there is no escape.
We were granted an audience of the pasha or governor
of the place. On first arriving his highness had not fin-
ished his siesta, but soon admitted us. He was tall, rather
thin, but of good appearance, seated on a dais surrounded
by papers on which he seemed to have been at work.
Xear by on the stone floor was the rug on which he re-
posed from the noontide sun and the cares of state. We
also visited the court in session. The judge sat cross-
legged on the pavement surrounded by the mufti or men
learned in the law, engaged in hearing a case. Our guide
on this occasion was a Je\v assistant to the consul: appar-
ently the court was adjourned that we might be intro-
duced to his honor. Xot even Othello himself could have
excelled this judge in stately mien or elegant demeanor ;
involuntarily I exclaimed, "Oh, what a handsome man ! ''
Court was adjourned, and the judge, opening his snuft
AFRICAN DAYS. 391
box, skillfully deposited a pinch on the back of his dexter
thumb and offered it to our consideration. We lightly
sniffed, and in view of the villainous odors with which
Tangier abounds, could but esteem it a most thoughtful
attention.
From court to prison is a natural step, and to prison
we went. Evidently reform associations have not pene-
trated here. It was a kind of cave or grotto, without
light or ventilation save what entered at the grated door;
and the unhappy wretches crowded forward, offering for
sale rude baskets which constitutes their chief support,
for unless they have friends they may starve there, or if
sick, die without care. Not far from this was a place of
temporary confinement previous to trial, where they are
chained to a post or stone. There are no theatres or
operas in Tangier, and the inmates of the harem have
plenty of time for gossip if so disposed, though a recent
writer has given us a new idea of the employments in the
harem, from which it appears that among the lower ranks
at least their lives are not altogether idle. They were
sifting corn meal, which lay in great golden heaps on
sheets, upon the floor.
Our guide one evening took us to a concert. The good
curate, whose immaculate necktie and stovepipe hat bore
witness to his devotion to principle, was sorely tried.
u What do you think," asked he, " my people would say
to see me in such a place ? " " Well,'"'' said F., *' if you
wish to know anything of the customs and manners of
the people you have to use your eyes."' So he dubiously
followed through the winding lanes and alleys indiffer-
ently lighted by the lantern of the guide, until we reached
an underground saloon of the rudest stone architecture.
About one side of the room were seated the performers
cross-legged on mats. The orchestral accompaniment
was not on the whole Wagnerian, a two-stringed fiddle
392 MRS. SMYTH'S JOURNAL.
and the tom-tom, a drum shaped like an hour glass with
a leather covering stretched across the head. We after-
wards bought one of the stringed instruments of an ama-
teur performer on the street. If the cremona or the
double bass is evolved from this primitive fiddle, it will
go far to establish the theory of Darwin. On these the
concert performers snapped and strummed and pounded,
keeping time to a song of a thousand arid one verses,
which was of the most heart-rending description. We
were, however, enabled to create a little diversion by beat-
ing vigorously in turn a stray tom-tom, and even the
curate, with the desperation which the good sometimes
exhibit when led into devious ways, pounded the tom-tom
as though it had been a dissenter. Our performers, how-
ever, were not lacking in consideration for our exhausted
nerves, for they served tea and coffee in tiny cups, and so
sent us home through the slippery streets in good spirits.
Our consul lived out of town on Mount Washington,
and, probably not often meeting people from the country
he represented, laid himself out, so to speak, that he
might do honor to our humble selves: in fact, as be after-
ward wrote to his confr<''re in Gibraltar, he provided a
" magnificent entertainment '" ; but three clays in Tangier
were all we could allow, and so unfortunately, as it hap-
pened, we gave up a good dinner for a rough storm at sea.
As is not infrequently the case, when we had made up our
minds to go, we were not quite ready. Having indulged
in many small purchases of the goods and wares of the
country, it became necessary to have a full list, of the
same made out before we started. Our consul had influ-
ence to delay L'Africaine, the little French steamer,
but he could not command the violent rain or the coining
storm, which delay made more dangerous. At last we
hurried on board. The rain came down in torrents, and
the waves ran hi^h and furious. Present! v the wind
AFRICAN DAYS. 393
arose almost to a cyclone, we were blown far out of our
course, and with all came a dense, stifling fog. The cap-
tain did not know where we were, the sailors seemed inert
and sulky. It appeared that for a little time we were in
real danger; happily the cloud passed, the sun came out.
and though we were at some distance on the Mediterra-
nean, yet after six or seven hours we again reached Gib-
raltar. It was the roughest bit we had yet encountered.
After this we remained several days waiting for the steam-
ship which was to take us to Alexandria. It developed
nothing new on the rock, except that the consul at Tan-
gier wrote to his friend here what prodigious prepara-
tion he had made to feast us at Mount Washington ; but
could we have swallowed it before starting the sea would
surely have gotten it all.
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
TO THE LAND OF THE PHARAOHS.
ON the 5th of February we set out along the Algerian
coast en route for Alexandria. The weather was pleasant,
agreeably warm, the sea tranquil, the porpoises disported
themselves around us, and at night the wonderful phos-
phorescent light played on the waves in our trail. We
were eight days on the way, stopping one day (Friday)
from sunrise to night at Malta. The first impression of
the harbor and Valetta, the capital, is like that of Genoa,
houses with balconies in Moorish and Italian style, and
streets narrow. There is room, however, for swarms of
idle natives lying around in the sun. The harbor was full
of English ships, transports with troops on board, and
other crafts, making it a gay and lively scene. We visited
the governor's palace, formerly that of the grand master,
where are the armor and tapestry said to be the finest in
the world of the knights who reigned here from 1510
to 1798; also the church of St. John, in whose chapel are
the monuments of the dead crusaders. There are 1,200
Roman priests in this little isle, which is indeed densely
populated. The women wear a very ugly head-dress and
veil of black in which they are doing penance, it is said,
for 100 years, although we do not recall the reason for which
it was imposed. Whatever may be the historic interest
connected with these relics of the mediaeval ages, it is sur-
passed immeasurably by St. Paul's bay, scene of the ship-
wreck of the Apostle to the Gentiles, where the confor-
mation of the shores seem to bear witness to the truth of
the story in Acts. There were three days more of voyag-
ALEXANDRIA. 395
ing for us before reaching Alexandria, and part of the
time the weather was rough. We had on board a cat
which served well as a barometer. lie was a great pet
among the passengers, expecting some tid-bit from each
in turn at meals. In calm weather he was a perfect
model of gentle manners and high breeding, but when a
storm was brewing he seemed to have had direct advices
from Old Prob., which transformed him into a perfect
spitfire, rushing about the ship, making warlike demon-
strations from unexpected quarters, knocking over and
smashing such fragile furniture as came in his way. Some
English ladies who had encountered violent winds off the
Bay of Biscay reported the conduct of the cat as tempestu-
ous in the extreme. The sailors had something like a
superstitious regard for the prophetic beast. Meantime
the eight days' voyage required some effort to make it
lively. Some of the ladies were weighed to keep them
light-hearted, the method being to catch hold of a big-
steelyard hook used for freight and curl up one's feet
from deck. My note-book puts me down at 10 stone 10.
On Sunday, February 11, we reached Alexandria at
evening, but, on account of the rough sea and the sunken
ships in the channel, did not go in until Monday.
Since we last saw Alexandria in 1878 there had been
great change; buildings in ruins, forts battered down, ex-
ploded shells lying about,- in short hardly anything but
bore marks of the contest, except the famous light-house
at the entrance. The natives were strictly prohibited
from entering or lounging about the forts, and an English
officer in charge was having no end of trouble to enforce
his orders. In addition to the swarming population was
a crowd of pilgrims returning from Mecca, dirty, foot-
sore, hungry, adding to the woe-begone look of the place.
We spent only one day there, visiting the palace and harem
of the khedive, the villa occupied by Sir Garnet Woles-
396 MRS. SMYTH'S JOURNAL.
ley, Pompey's pillar, and a few other points of interest.
We missed the obelisk which had taken flight to ]S"ew
York, and saw its solitary mate. Our route by rail to
Cairo was through a very marvel of fertility. ISTo wonder
the Xile has been worshiped, since it brings the means of
life to so many.
We had some dreamy speculations as to what the
weather might be at home while riding through these
luxuriant fields of wheat and clover two feet high and of
the most vivid green imaginable. Along the way were
native rnud villages, and each one, no matter how small,
with its mosque. We reached Cairo about 4 p. M. and
found that the steamer had left the morning before, so
after spending a day in Cairo we took the cars for
Assyout, where we expected to overtake the steamer,
and deferred further explorations until our return. Oc-
casionally we had seen on our way the sugar-houses built
by the khedive and owned by the government. Egypt is
a great cane-growing country and can produce sugar at
very little cost. These mills are built of brick and stone,
and seem more like progress than anything we had seen.
As we passed the bridge on our way out to Boulac, we
encountered hundreds of camels and donkeys laden with
all manner of produce, every article of which has to pay
a tax at the gates ; and then it was some kind of a fete day,
which increased the crowd and the confusion. February
16 we reached our boat at Assyout, the capital of middle
Egypt. The old Xile had a very lively look, covered with
boats, some laden with water jars, and all moved by the
huge red lateen sail so common and so picturesque here
and in Turkey. One morning we saw drawn up by the
side of our steamer another hoisting the American flag,
a joyous sight to our eyes. It was the missionary steamer
belonging to the American Presbyterian Board, which
cruises up and down the Xile, teaching or preaching as the
need niav be.
UP THE NILE. 397
At this point we all set oft' on donkeys to visit the rock
tombs, as also the caves of the mummied wolves, creatures
which once received divine honors in this region. The
rock tombs are a series of vast catacombs cut in the hills
above the city, whose walls are covered with inscriptions.
Xorth and south are two magnificent plains at the foot of
the hills, covered with exquisite verdure, palm groves,
fields, gardens, and villages. Assyout, with its numerous
minarets and its busy population, presents a very lively
scene. It is at the terminus of the railway and the mire-
pot of vast quantities of merchandise from the Libyan
desert and Darfoor. It is said to be one of the prettiest
towns on the Xile. These villages, while beautiful in the
distance, are most disheartening and sad on a near view
having mere apologies for houses done in baked mud.
As our party went on its way, some slight accident hap-
pened to my saddle. As the driver was repairing damages
a young man rode up and accosted me in broken English.
He was a teacher in the mission school at Assyout. On
our return I visited his school. They manufacture here a
very creditable style of pottery, and one often meets
women balancing huge water jars on their heads, holding
I dare not say how many gallons. During most of the
day it was very hot, and we were careful to remain in-doors.
Our next stopping-place was at Girjeh, in English
St. George, the patron saint of the Kopts, who have here a
fine church. Near this place arc the ruins of the ancient
Abydos. The country around is surpassingly fertile, but
full of miserably dirty villages, streets defiled with offal
and growing rubbish heaps. One can see how it is that
in some thousands of years this process has covered even
the vast monuments of Egypt. The fields are intersected
with thousands of rivulets, and water-wheels with buckets
are in constant use by the larger canals. It is a ride by
donkey of about two hours to the desert line and the site
398 MRS. SMYTH'S JOURNAL.
of " This/' The ancient inscriptions affirm that Menes,
the founder of the dynasty, was born here. The interior
of the temple is very perfect, but the customary ap-
proaches, pylons, sphinxes, etc., are gone. Seven chapels
side by side, each devoted to the worship of a single god,
precede the entrance to the halls of colonnades. The inscrip-
tions are exquisitely perfect and fresh in color. In one of
the chapels was found the most important tablet yet dis-
covered, containing the names of seventy-six kings, from
Menes to Seti. From the modern village here there was
a rush of naked boys with slings for sale, and they ex-
hibited great dexterity in the use of this primitive weapon,
killing birds on the wing and attesting the excellence of
their weapons to induce us to purchase.
Our next port was Keneh, once a town of considerable
importance on the east bank of the Jule, being connected
with the port of Kosseir on the Red sea by a caravan
route. It is famous for its excellent dates and for the
superior quality of the pottery manufactured here. It
lies about two miles back from the landing. Denderah,
on the opposite side, is reached by a ferry and contains a
temple which, with one exception, is considered the most
perfect specimen yet unearthed. The paintings and in-
scriptions on its walls tell the manner of the temple ser-
vice, of its plan of building and dedication. Here may
be seen the portrait of Cleopatra. The building is com-
paratively modern, being about 2,000 years old. It is
surrounded by a huge pile of debris, which at a little dis-
tance conceals the entrance from view. From Keneh we
sped on to Luxor, where upon our arrival the American
flag was run up at the consulate and there was a magniti-
cent salute of lire-arms (old muskets) which brought us
into port with distinguished honors. We stopped here
four days, little time to be sure in which to explore this
bewildering labyrinth of ruins, but all we could now
UP THE NILE. 399
spare. And we were busy enough. The consul, who
was no American, but a Mohammedan of the strictest sort,
was yet not above dealing with heretics' and infidels in
such way as to increase his gains. Consequently his son
attended the mission school, as the education he got there
opened to him places of profit. He also owned the piece
of ground on which the mission buildings stood, and the
teacher was very anxious to secure additional facilities.
While in conversation with us he manifested the utmost
willingness to do anything the teacher wished, for he had
asked F. to intercede w r ith the consul-general at Cairo
and get his son appointed assistant, which would free him
from the conscription. While F. was considering this
proposition the teacher, Mr. Awada Abot Eshshaheed,
speaking aside to me in a low tone in English, said: "Do
not believe him : he is our enemy, opposing our work in
every way he dares." As soon as I could, this state of
the case was communicated to F., who thereupon said,
assuming a high tone, " Of course, if I do this, I shall ex-
pect you to give all possible aid to the school and let them
have what land they need at a fair price." He promised.
At Cairo the case was fully stated to the consul-general,
but we have not heard if it resulted in any good. At one
time when a general uprising of the Mohammedans was
threatened, the fiery old bigot who represented the Eng-
lish Government took a club and actually beat the teacher,
and our own consular agent went so far as to threaten his
life if he did not abandon the school. Every thoughtful
observer must give great credit to the American Presby-
terian Board of Missions for the excellent work they are
doing along the Xile. It is absolutely the only light in
the darkness of this part of Egypt.
The Ghawazee, or dancing girls, constitute the chief
stock amusement of the rich. At Cairo, at Esneh, at
Luxor, at every place, in fact, of importance, they will per-
400 MRS. SMYTH'S JOURNAL.
form for pay. Our consul at Luxor hearing that there were
Americans on the steamer, straightway invited them to an
entertainment at his house. The whole party were bid-
den, and though our good curate smelt danger from afar,
he went with us. The accompaniments were all first-class,
pipes, coffee, luxurious divans, Persian carpets, spacious
saloon, and all the rest of it. As to the girls, I suppose it
was called dancing; it was not devoid of a certain grace
and beauty, and consisted mainly of rhythmic movements
of the body keeping time to the music, with now and
then an extra feat thrown in, as when one rolled across
the floor with a bottle containing a lighted candle on her
head. "We could have stood this with equanimity, but
when, as a matter of etiquette, we were invited to the
English and the French consuls', and there saw the very
same girls and in the same performance, we began to feel
like the boy with a season ticket to the circus !
At the gateway of Luxor stand two colossal statues of
Barneses II and his queen, cut in red granite. We look
down upon them from the pylon and then out upon the
Theban plain thirteen miles in extent, and girt by the
Libyan hills. Five principal groups of ruins may be seen.
"Westward like sentinels stand the twin colossi of Memnon,
nearer the portico of the temples of the Memnonium and
Medinet Ilaboo, while in the background rise the honey-
combed limestone hills containing the tombs of the kings
and fringing the vast necropolis. At our feet swarms the
miscellaneous collection of cats, dogs, flies, naked children,
scantily clothed men, and women in a single cotton gar-
ment and a veiled face, that go to make up the modern
town. A little beyond, covering an area of one hundred
and fifty square feet, rise rows of columns, " palm groves
blossoming in stone," carved with lotus buds, sharp in
outline as though cut but yesterday, a marvel to those
who know how quickly the fitful climate of Xew England
UP THE NILE. 401
wears marble and granite. Between this and Karnak for
two rniK'S and more ran the royal road bordered with
sphinxes, of which here and there one remains. Our
most memorable and charming; view was that of Karnak
by moonlight ; here the propylon in its vast proportions
is well preserved; there we see a solitary obelisk, a great
screen or wall, and beyond a pillared forest. Going on
through the gate by the temple of Rameses VI, one
conies upon three avenues, containing no less than 4,000
sphinxes.
From Luxor we crossed the Xile in boats, forded one
branch on donkeys, and over another were carried on the
backs of men. The ford was crossed by the aid of a fel
lah wading on each side to keep the rider in the saddle,
and the small animal from sinking over head and ears in
the mud. On this side the river is the necropolis, the
tombs of the people, which are used in many cases as the
abode of the living, and northward in the white limestone
hills, barren, lonely, inhabited only by vultures, the jackal,
the serpents, and bats, are the wonderful tombs of the
kings. We visited the temple of Medinat Haboo, which
has in its court the ruins of a Christian church, the Ra-
meseum, temple of Kurnah, and that of Queen IFatasu.
Like tbe colossi of Memnon, these have all been often
spoken of by travelers from Herodotus down, but all de-
scription fails to give any true idea of the reality. The
Libyan hills are fairly honey-combed with elaborately
carved tombs covered with inscriptions. These, like the
temples, are the books in which they have written their
history. F. went into one of the most famous, known as
Bel/oni's, and numbered for convenience 17. It is the
tomb of !Seti I. The alabaster sarcophagus is now in
Sloane's Museum, London, and the body, which appears to
have been removed during some very early invasion, has
been found at Davr el Bahree. To enter the tomb one
402 MRS. SMYTH'S JOURNAL.
approaches through a deep gorge, goes down a wide, steep
descent of twenty-four steps through a passage eighteen
feet long, down a similar stairway and passage into a
chamber. Then comes a deep pit and beyond other rooms,
concealed once by close fitting doors and brightly painted
stucco, which has the finish and hardness of enamel.
Here Belzoni made a breach in the wall, which opened the
way to more vaulted and pillared rooms, and at last to the
royal tomb. It is a spacious vaulted chamber 200 by 75 or
80 feet, with a rough hewn corridor beyond. It is covered
with inscriptions telling the story of the nether world as
the ancient Egyptians conceived it. Our day's work done
and lunch disposed of, we return by ford, carry, and boat
to Luxor. Here our steamer, the Ghizeh, was waiting to
take Mr. Cook, head of the Xile Transportation Company,
and his family down to Cairo, on account of an accident
which had happened to him at the first cataract. We
therefore spent the night at Hotel Luxor, to be transferred
in the morning to the Mahala.
While at Luxor we all had our pictures taken, being
posted for that purpose in the blinding sun on the bank
of the river. With a little knowledge and taste on the
part of the artist it might have been made a picturesque
scene, for often buffaloes and their drivers are sporting in
the water, and the outline of the hills and the palm groves
may be seen on the opposite side. He, however, was ob-
livious of such matters, so that the picture of the group
leaves more to the imagination.
On the morning of the 23d of February we were to
start for Assouan and intervening points of interest.
Our hotel was pleasant and well kept, its rooms looking
out on fine gardens, and was really a place of refreshing
rest. After breakfast F. took a last little turn about town,
and I was more inclined to walk with the ladies of our
party in the garden. To meet a funeral is said to be
A CRISIS. 403
unlucky, and it came near being so to us. We had
often seen them along the banks of the Nile, straggling
crowds of the Fellaheen, weeping and wailing after some
poor remnant of mortality borne on the shoulders of four
or more in a coffin covered with a red shawl, and on this
morning F., in the course of his rambles, stumbled upon
one in preparation, the man having just died, and straight-
way got so interested in the proceedings that he forgot all
about the time. Meanwhile the messenger from the
Mahala announced that she was ready ; all the passengers
save one, alas ! had left the hotel ; moments, hours slipped
by; another messenger, ten o'clock, captain storming.
English people told him to go on wanted our cabin.
Americans (and they were strangers) stood by the gang-
plank and said, "No, you shan't go till every American is
on board." It was a critical juncture, but just at that
time a couple of hot, breathless, panting travelers, " lard-
ing the lean earth," with attendant Hassans and Moham-
meds clutching their traps, came down the sandy shore,
and once more Bunker Hill won the day. The bubbling
little steamer put on all her force, and we were on the
way to the first cataract.
Our stopping-place was Esneh, on the left bank of the
Nile, twenty miles or more from Luxor. Here is a great
hall with columns, which is reached from the harbor by
passing through the town. It is part of an immense
temple which remains covered, and on which, in fact, the
town is built. Descending through a narrow passage-way
into the interior, one sees a very perfect and immense
hall supported on twenty-four columns, each of which is
thirty-eight feet high and raised on a high plinth. The
capitals all differ in detail, a flower bell, on which is carved
various designs, as of palms, grape leaves, etc., giving the
whole a most graceful and picturesque effect. Every
available inch of space has the k * handwriting upon the
404 MRS. SMYTH'S JOURNAL.
wall." The structure was built on the foundation of one
by Thothmes I, in the mid era of the Ptolemies, and was
finished by the Romans. Esneh is the great resort of the
Ghawazee, who on a time were banished to this place
from Cairo, and it has remained one of their favorite
haunts to this day. The market-place, the viceroy's
palace, the Koptie church, and the bazaar, are worth visit-
ing, and attest the rather nourishing condition of the
place, which is one of the most considerable Nile towns.
Moving on up the river we pass El Kab and reach Edfoo,
about twenty-five miles from Esneh and on the same side
of the river. Hei'e we saw the remains of the most per-
fect temple which has yet been imburied in Egypt. So
perfect that, says Ebers, if the old priests could return,
there would be no difficulty in repeating every part of the
temple service. It was not many years since nearly cov-
ered with earth, and built upon in every available position.
Mariette Bey, the French savant, got permission to dis-
lodge the "squatters,' 7 settled them in new quarters, and
then carefullv removed the dt(>ris of a;es. We ascended
/ O
the propylon 250 steps, and were rewarded by a magnifi-
cent view. Immediately below us stretches out the
temple dedicated to Horns, whose symbol is the sparrow-
hawk, which is seen carved in stone and in all parts of
the inclosure. Like other temples, this was built on an
earlier foundation, and was only finished by that Ptolemy
who was the father of Cleopatra, in the year 57 i). c.
The hawk is a very common bird here now. In the sanc-
tuary or innermost court is a shrine of porphyry, which
was brought here from afar in time of the Persian inva-
sion. All about on this side the Nile are cultivated fields,
hamlets with mosques, and groves of palm. Yearly in
the ancient time was a grand festival, when Athor, the
goddess of Dendera, visited her husband Ilorus at Edfoo,
O 7 . 7
and at another season the visit was returned. The threat
THE TEMPLES.
procession of barges and luxuriously appointed boats on
the Nile was beyond comparison in magnificence. Cere-
monies in regard to the rise and fall of the Nile were also
observed at these times. It is not a little singular that at
Dendera and Edfoo the temples so related in their wor-
ship should have been so nearly preserved.
But our time was up : we returned to the Mahala, and
presently a dispute arose among the party of thirty-two
as to the day of the week. Certainly, when considering
epochs of 4,000 years, more or less, the days of the week
could hardly be picked up as they passed. We referred
it to the clergymen, who were a little doubtful, but de-
cided it to be Saturday afternoon as we reached Kom Om-
boo and tied up for the night. On Sunday, Mr. Philips,
a Presbyterian clergyman, read the Episcopal service for
the benefit of such as inclined to that form, and the Rev.
Dr. Wilson, from Edinburgh, gave an excellent sermon.
At this place the temple is nearly all in ruins and its situ-
ation is such that the undermining Nik- on the one side
and the desert on the other will in a few years destroy
v */
every vestige. The columns that remain and the astro-
nomical paintings on the ceiling, are no less worthy of
notice than others we have seen. Like others, it was
rebuilt by the Ptolemies and finished by Tiberius Cavsar.
When Greek soldiers were stationed here, it was dedi-
cated to Apollo, an inscription on one of the walls stating
as much. When such places have been used for Chris-
tian worship the inscriptions were simply plastered over
with Nile mud, upon which were painted the saints and
other insignia of the new faith. From Kom Omboo we
proceeded to Assouan, where we remained two days, und
made excursions to the various points of interest. Assouan
itself is the the ancient Syene, and from the peculiar
kind of granite found here the name syenite was derived.
In the place of mica, which forms a part of our New
406 MRS. SMYTH'S JOURNAL.
Hampshire granite, is found hornblende. After the
desert banks just below, the port of Assouan, with the
town half concealed in palm groves, is very attractive.
There is an extraordinary variety of inhabitants, all eager
for trade in their various wares, and, of course, a Babel in
speech. Trinkets in ivory, gold and silver bracelets, pan-
ther and leopard skins, baskets, wooden bowls, amulets,
the scanty Nubian dresses of fringed leather, are urged
upon the traveler with Oriental tongue and gesticulation.
We did a little shopping in the bazaars. Invariably the
dealer asked about five times the worth of his goods, and
concessions were wrung from him by our cmide with a
o \J o
row that threatened to disrupt the whole body politic.
One curious fact we noticed, of a little Arab who followed
us about, and when the wrangling had reached a certain
pitch, said to the dealer in regard to our offer, " Take it,"
which he did without further parle}*.
From here we mounted donkeys to visit Philre and the
cataract; on our way we saw the quarries from which
some of the stones were hewn for the temples. There
lay, as it was left unfinished, an obelisk, a single stone,
eighty feet in length and seven feet square at the base.
It had not been freed from the stone on the under
sides, and no inscription tells by whom it was begun or
why it was left. These vast quarries are about as sur-
prising as the buildings that were erected from them.
Here and at Silsilis, and some other places within a few
miles of Assouan, all the most valuable stone for the pol-
ished exterior of pyramids, tombs, and temples through-
out Egypt were taken. Xear the town we pass the tem-
ple of Isis Sothis, or Lady of the Dogstar, and then
emerge into a desert of rock and yellow sand, diversified
by views of a picturesque mosque tomb. Occasionally
we meet Nubians with asses or camels on their way to
market, and, before reaching Phil*, see a high, strong
PHIL/E AND THE CATARACT. 407
wall which crosses the road several times and seems to
have been intended for defense. Huge cliffs now and then
rise up on either side, covered with innumerable inscrip-
tions from travelers of all the ages. The path grows
more and more forbidding, desolation broods over the
scorched and scorching rock and sand until, turning at an
abrupt point, a little oasis shaded with sycamores and
palms reveals in its refreshing depths the house of a mis-
sionary society. The Xile, and Phihe with its temples, are
before us. Enviable little fellows are swimming about or
lounging by the boats, on which they otter to ferry us
across, and AVC are fairly enchanted by the scene. Phihe
J \J
is doubtless one of the most beautiful places on the Xile.
it was dedicated to the goddess Isis (whose sign is the
cow), in whose honor a temple was erected. The shores
are protected from the encroachments of the water by
walls of solid masonry. This was the last stronghold of
Egyptian idol worship, some features of which were
adopted by Greeks and Romans, so that it was not until
the 6th century that the ancient shrines were displaced
by the cross, which in its turn gave way to the crescent.
The sacred processions which came from all parts of the
land to Phihe are supposed to have landed on the south-
ern extremity, where a stone stairway leads from the
water, and presently by the usual approaches to the great
temple. On the top of the temple is a shrine where the
god Osiris was expected to rise to life again. Among the
most graceful and airy structures on the island is the
Kiosk, or Pharaoh's Bed, built by the Komans.
The cataract was not mueh of a show. The Amoskeag
tails at our door are quite as worthy of the name, more
dangerous to shoot, and more vigorous in action. And
yet there is an interest attaching to the scene independent
of its size or noise. The principal channel up which the
boatmen uro-e their craft is 200 bv about 70 feet with a fall
408 MRS. SMYTH'S JOURNAL.
of perhaps 15 feet. The place is so strewn with bowlders
polished with the watery attrition of years that navigation
is difficult and dangerous. There are other and more
tortuous channels, and there were plenty of Nubians ready
for the smallest pay to bundle their scanty clothing on
their heads and shoot the rapids on a log or a bundle of
canes. Xot far from here is the grove of an Englishman
who thought he could do the same thing and perished in
the attempt. While here on the Nubian side of the line
we visited one of the villages, a most miserable collection
of mud huts, whose dwellers were as black as the verti-
cal sun of the tropics could make them, and who wore
their hair braided in ropes about the size of a small whip-
cord and drenched with ill-smelling oil. They had no
particular occupation except begging, and could afford to
give time to the arrangement of the coiffure, especially
if, as seemed not unlikely, they did it only once a year.
On returning to Assouan we crossed to Elephantine, so
named because it was once a great mart for the ivory of
the Soudan. From one end of the island the view down
the iSTile is very grand and wild, cliffs arising on either
side. There are now few remains of interest, except per-
haps the Nilometer, which, constructed many years before
Christ, has been repaired and measures the rise and fall
of the river with its old fidelity. There were several of
these instruments at various points on the Xile, and their
record was shrouded in mystery by the priests, whose in-
terest it was to make the common people believe that they
exercised power over the movements of the water. In
later times government officials have preserved the same
secrecy, and as the river rises well or ill so the taxes are
proportioned.
CHAPTER XXXIX.
DOWN THE NILE. CAIRO.
STARTING toward Cairo, we again reached Luxor and
tied up for the night. The next day several English peo-
ple called on us, and we visited the mission school, doing
also a little shopping in the bazaars. The exercises of the
pupils excited so much interest in the visitors that a con-
tribution was started on the spot, and a young English
lady gave quite a large sum. It was a fortunate day for
the school. The next night our boat tied up at Girzeh,
and then on Friday, the Mohammedan Sabbath, we
reached Assyout. Here we went on shore, and F. visited
some of the higher grade of schools. It was excessively
hot, buzzards slowly flapped their listless wings, and
crows, dove-colored with black wings, might be seen
flying about.
The conjunction of Sabbaths was very curious, Friday
the Mohammedan, Saturday the Jewish, and Sunday the
Christian; and as there were people enough who had scru-
ples about doing any work on their respective days, on
the boat and all about us, it consumed quite a share of the
week.
We continued on our way down the river, touching at
the Fellah village of Manfaloot, near which is the moun-
tain of Aboo Fawdali. greatly dreaded by the navigators
in these waters, and the celebrated crocodile cave of
Maabdeh, where there are and have been cords of em-
balmed saurians, with no\v and then an Egyptian thrown
in. We also visited Bcni Hassan, famous for its rock
tombs, whose inscriptions chronicle the story of a peace-
410 MRS. SMYTH'S JOURNAL.
ful race addicted to agriculture and the arts of peace.
Flowers, grapes, and garlands are tokens of the life they
led before the rising of the great kings. On Sunday,
March 4, we reached Cairo, where we proposed to spend
a week and to explore as well as we might the famous
City of the Caliphs.
Doubtless the world moves. Five years had made some
visible change for the better even in an Oriental city. To
be sure, the old quarter was older still and, if possible,
more squalid and filthy ; but modern Cairo had felt a little
the thrill of the world's progress, had some new buildings,
improved streets, and a creditable park in front of the new
hotel where we took up our quarters. An Egyptian band
discoursed music from brazen throats, distinguished rather
by quantity than quality, which served, however, to tone
up the various noises of the street. They did, however,
among the weird strains of native music, introduce
" Sweet Home" and a few such airs. In fact, one may
always be sure of a noise in an Eastern town. There is
generally a Babel of languages and an aggregated
clamor of tongues and voices, where the braying of jack-
asses and the grunting of camels make no discord. When,
for instance, we rode from the hotel, the driver was
accompanied on the box by a man who incessantly vocif-
erated with the utmost force of his lungs for foot passen-
gers to clear the way, and when high officials rode, a half
dozen runners in white tunics run before, each doing his
loudest. Pupils in schools all study aloud and apparently
do nothing but yell, swinging backward and forward as
they sit and shout.
But let us not anticipate. ~\Ye are working back to
modern times. Cairo, built up out of the ruins of Mem-
phis and of Heliopolis, is but a mere chick of a city. In
the year 638 A. D., or six years after the death of Ma-
hornet, a band of Moslem fanatics, numbering only about
CAIRO. 411
4,000, men came into Egypt from Syria, and such was
their fierce bravery that by the aid of the Kopts they
conquered and forced to leave the country the Greek
army, at that time numbering 1 100,000. The name of this
Arab general was Amroo-ibnel-Asee. He pitched his
tent on the spot now occupied by old Cairo, and as he
was about to set out on his victorious foray, it was dis-
covered that a pair of pigeons had built on the canvas
shelter, whereupon said he, " God forbid that a Moslem
should refuse a shelter to any living being one of God's
creatures that has put itself under the protection of his
hospitality." So the tent stood, and here began the foun-
dation of Cairo. To-day, the Mosque of Amroo, which
we visited, is said to be the finest specimen of early Arab
architecture in existence, not excelled even by the mosque
cathedral at Cordova. Its vast colonnades of marble pil-
lars of every order of architecture except the Egyptian,
which is rigorously excluded, cast their shadows on the
floors covered by prayer mats, where the faithful are at
their devotions. It was our good fortune to be in Cairo
during the fete of the Xew Year. The bazaars and shops
were brilliantly illuminated with tiny lamps of various
colors, and the streets swarmed with a gay, good-natured,
and civil crowd; we saw no fighting, no drunkenness, no
rudeness, and yet under these exteriors beat the fierce
blood of the fanatical poj dilation so easily excited to
bloodshed.
Among the marvels of this Xew Year's night was the
illumination of the Mosque of Mohammed Ali. It
seemed as though there must have been millions of lamps
interior and exterior, covering dome and minaret to the
very topmost point. We rode out to see the show, and
the merchants in their shops, so to speak, kept open
doors. "With urgent but courteous entreaties they invited
us in and offered refreshments of pipes, coffee, and slier-
412 MRS. SMYTH'S JOURNAL.
bet, displaying, meanwhile, their richest wares, so that we
might know where to come and trade. It was on this
occasion that we saw the ladies of the khedive's harem
riding, in European costume and in superb carriages, at-
tended by no end of out-runners and servants, themselves
a part of the show they were out to see.
I was one day favored with an interview with the
princess, wife of a brother of the khedive. She was at-
tended by a friend, and both were apparently accomplished
and intelligent ladies, speaking English fairly well. She
was, however, in great grief on acco.unt of the death of
the chief eunuch of her household, who died, as she told
us, of a broken heart. Having occasion for the services
of a dentist, who was English and employed at the court,
he told me that the late lamented gentleman in question,
who served as butler, made so free use of the wines at his
disposal that he had burst with good living. The den-
tist also entertained me with an amusing account of his
trials in replacing the pearly teeth of the ladies of the
harem, who insisted on his doing the work without re-
quiring them to unveil. One woman in particular, who
had long ceased to be ornamental, danced about the room
in a perfect fury because the impression of her mouth
could not be taken with her veil up. At last the dental
surgeon got mad and berated her soundly, whereupon
she surrendered her scruples: "and," said he, " I did not
blame her for wishing to remain covered, for she disclosed
the feature's of such a horrible old hag that it was almost
incredible." In support of his story lie showed us the
cast, which seemed taken more from the mouth of an
animal than of a human being. All of which goes to
confirm the assertion that Eastern beauty matures early,
fades quickly, and at last terminates in supreme ugliness.
F. was received by the khedive: he also spoke English,
but not with arreat fluencv. In allusion to English rule,
WITH THE KHEDIVE. 413
F. said to him, "I don't know how it is with you here,
but at home we say, America for Americans." He evi-
dently understood the allusion, hut was of course non-
committal. He said that Egyptians were a mixed race
and not capable of self-government. Our consul after-
ward told us that the khedive was unusually interested in
the talk, as visitors mostly had little to say and waited for
him to lead off, and it seemed to he a new sensation to
hear some one who did not hesitate to advance an idea of
his own. F. invited the khedive to come to America and
bring his family, to which lie said, " Our ladies are not so
fond of traveling as yours are." "That is a fortunate
thing for you," says the ex-governor, "for to bring my
one wife to the East twice has cost several thousand
francs." His highness smiled and F. arose to go, but, on
being urged, sat down, and they conversed further on
various topics ; and his highness was pleased to say that
"our people," meaning the American missionaries, "were
doing great good by establishing schools," etc.
There are various places of great interest near Cairo to
be reached by carriage. One day we visited Heliopolis,
where stands the oldest obelisk in Egypt, which with
many others formerly graced the approach to the Temple
of the Sun. It was situated a few miles northeast from
Cairo, and was once the seat and center of Egyptian learn-
ing. In the Bible it was called On, and here dwelt that
priest whose daughter was the wife of Joseph. On our
way thither we passed a garden containing a sycamore
tree under whose branches the holy family are said to
have sojourned while in Egypt, and a spring of sweet
water which first lost its brackish taste when the infant
Jesus bathed in it. The obelisks are said to have been
almost innumerable here, and the solitary remaining one
is covered with inscriptions. Our way hither was partly
hot and dustv, beiny; on the confines of the desert, and
414 MRS. SMYTH'S JOURNAL.
partly in the grateful shade of trees and by beautiful
gardens, one of the palaces of the khedive being on this
route.
At the extreme southern part of Cairo is the old city,
where the improvements of the new quarter have not
reached. Taking a boat from this locality we visit the
island of Rhoda, on which is a famous nilometer, very
ancient but in good working order. It consists of a ver-
tical shaft sunk to the level of the bed of the river, with
which it communicates by a subterranean tunnel. An
octagonal pillar stands in the center of the shaft, on which
is inscribed the scale.
There is no place in any part of the world that we have
visited where the view is more impressive than that from
the citadel at Cairo. The way to it is well kept, and
climbing a steep road one comes upon a small plateau.
The flat roofs of the city, the minarets and domes of the
mosques, the swarms of people on the Roomeleh square,
first attract the e} T e. Then to the west flows the I^ile
between its green banks, and farther along on the edge ot
the desert the pyramids lift their pointed caps to the glow-
ing sky. Then across the hill of Mokattam, on which
the citadel is built, east and south is visible the necropolis
of Cairo, the tombs of the Mamelukes, and northeast
those of the caliphs. Domed mausoleums rise up here
and there in the desert sands. Everywhere and in every
direction scenes new, strange, and marvelous to our west-
CD >
ern ideas present themselves. These things are all beauti-
ful, but beyond compare is the sunset glow over the I^ile,
the desert, and the Libyan hills.
As we descend and enter the inner courts of the citadel
they show us a well of great antiquity, ascribed by the
common people to Joseph, the son of the patriarch. It
was excavated, however, in the reign of Saladin, whose
name was Yoosuf. It is 289 feet deep, and the water is
JOSEPH'S WELL. 415
raised in jars by the help of oxen, which go up and down
on an inclined plane about half the depth of the shaft.
We were expected to taste the water, which has a brackish
flavor. It was in the court of this citadel that the mas-
sacre of the Mameluke beys took place, and they show
us the place where the sole survivor escaped by spurring
his horse over the parapet to the rocks below. Some of
the mosques have establishments for students .who are
preparing for the priesthood, and there will be forty or
fifty young men studying the Koran. There are also
hospitals for the care of the sick, said to be very excellent
in their way, but only for Moslems.
During our stay at Cairo occurred the annual meeting
of the mission workers under the care of the American
Presbyterian Board. They were present from every
station on the Xile, and made reports, gave suggestions,
and took counsel. As a whole, the reports were most
encouraging. It was named as a special cause for thank-
fulness, that after the recent war, when the missionaries
were all removed with their families on English ships of
war, that on their return, when they expected to find their
scholars scattered and schools destroyed, that all came
safely together again, and the work went on with renewed
prosperity. One of the most interesting places we visited
in the vicinity was the museum at Boulac or Boolak.
This is, properly speaking, the harbor of Cairo, as the
city does not lie directly on the Xile, probably for the
reason that has made it already necessary to rebuild on
the other bank of the river the museum, the ever en-
croaching waters. In this museum are preserved speci-
mens of Egyptian art from the earliest period, say 5,000
years old, down to modern or historic times, and they are
arranged chronologically so that one can judge of the
skill of any age. The articles here preserved relate not
only to hiffh art but to every detail of common life: in
416 MRS. SMYTH'S JOURNAL.
short, a history of that wonderful people in stone, clay,
gold, glass, silver, and whatsoever they set their hands to.
The smaller and more valuable specimens are under glass
cases ; the sphinxes and other large statues in the open
court. The excellent arrangement is due to the efforts of
the late Mariette Bey. As we are driven back to our
hotel, we shall notice certain bazaars where are sold slip-
pers and books. The familiar pun, that both relate to
the understanding, does not explain it, as the odd associa-
tion is due to both being bound in or covered with red
leather. Night perhaps tails as we reach the Ezbekiah
Square, and it is illuminated with thousands of little glass
lamps with colored bell-shaped shades, and its gardens
and walks are thronged by a crowd that for variety
and interest is not surpassed in any city of the world.
The civilization of the East and of the West here meet on
common ground ; ladies in all attires, from the fashions
of Paris to the veils ot the harem ; sheiks with Euro-
pean servants, and Europeans with Xubian attendants.
I have before named the mosque foundations where
students are received. The most famous of these to which
students come from the confines of Mohammedan rule is
the Mosque and University Elezher. It was founded in
the reign of the Fatimites, and is to-day supported, or
was before the great collapse in the revenue, by the
khedive. There were in 1877, 7,61'5 scholars and 231
professors, and in the more prosperous times these num-
bers were increased by at least one third. The professors
lecture on various texts of the Koran, and their disciples
in the spacious courts and halls of the mosques (for more
than one is required to accommodate them) take eopious
notes. The droning tone of the professor, the monoto-
nous repetition of the student, the swinging motion of
the whole school, the cross-legged desks on which
their Korans, portfolios, and manuscripts are laid, form a
A MOHAMMEDAN UNIVERSITY. 417
curious .sight. After about t\vo and a half hours' study
they rise, kiss the hand of their instructor, and take a
recess. When the call of the muezzin is heard, all repair
to the fountain in the court, perform their ablutions, and
offer their prayers. After the midday siesta study is
resumed until night. Like the letter-writers one sees on
the streets and in shady niches, they hold their paper on
the palm of the left hand and with a reed pen write from
right to left. Into this court, as its inmates saunter about,
come friends, peddlers, and the water-carriers chinking
the tin cups which make known their approach. Here,
as in all Eastern lands, the water-carrier is a very impor-
tant factor in life. The streets even are sprinkled by a
man with a pig-skin or other animal covering tilled with
water, from which gushes a feeble stream upon the hot,
dusty path. In the fore court of this same mosque, the
less advanced scholars, primaries so to speak, sit in groups
learning to read and to write on leaden tablets texts from
the Koran. On the whole, one can but ask in this strange
land, what next? The gigantic remains of the earlier
races, the vigor and fierceness of the Arab dominion, are
to be succeeded by what? Or are the influences of
Christian civilization, as developed through the mission-
ary efforts of our day, quietly to leaven this old lump with
new life?
Cairo has borne many names, "The Grand," ''City
of the Caliphs." etc., but that which it inherited as the
successor of Memphis must always be most significant,
' City of the Pyramids;" and to them, inseparably con-
nected with every view of the city, we must pay our
respects before pushing on to the Holy Land.
CHAPTER XL.
TO THE PYRAMIDS. THE SUEZ CANAL.
WITH our carriage, courier, and driver, we start in the
fresh air of the early morning over the iron bridge to the
island Ghezeevh, and thence across the western channel
of the Nile by a beautiful road shaded by trees which
have been planted within a few years past, the khedive's
castle and gardens, out into the fertile fields. Half naked
laborers are at work in the soil, buffaloes wading in the
muddy pools or shallow lakes made by irrigation, herons
stand in a meditative mood or flap their long wings in
easy flight, and the Pyramids are before us with their out-
lines well defined on the morning sky. After about an
hour and a half it begins to be very hot, the road which
rises toward the plain on which the pyramids stand is
"covered with sand, despite a wall built to keep it off, and
with a sharp turn we stop in front of the largest, known
as that of Cheops. To say that its base covers 13| acres,
and that its height when perfect was 482 feet, are facts very
difficult to comprehend, and even here on the spot the
first impression is one of disappointment. But when at
the distance of thirty miles, through the clear atmosphere
of this rainless land the view rather increases than dimin-
ishes, then we begin to be astonished. On the north side
in the shade are donkey boys, orange women, and a
,s\varm of Bedouins hungry for backsheesh. When
Frederick was here five years ago he did not attempt the
ascent; to-day lie told our dragoman that if he would get
the requisite aid, make them promise not to annoy by de-
manding backsheesh, and see him safely up and down, that
CLIMBING THE PYRAMIDS. 419
he would pay them well. It was declared on the part of
the Bedouin utterly impossible to get along with less than
five, one for each arm to pull, two to push after, arid
one to carry a bottle of water. A sixth, who called him-
self doctor and acted as leg rubber, insisted on going, and
did ; but as F. entirely repudiated his professional services
he received no pay. The steps, as they are called, usually
were about half way up the breast in height, and the
crafty Bedouins, having picked up a little English, now
improvised a chant as they pulled and pushed, the burden
w T hereof was this :
" Goo ood man, good man,
Pay us well ; pay us well ;
Give us sovereign ; give us sovereign ;
Hard ivork ! ! hard work I ! "
And this with the indescribable Arab drawl was repeated
over and over again in monotonous unison as they worked
their way to the summit and back again.
With all this aid and with the cheerful song it was a
very severe task. The heat was intense, and the guides
really had to earn their pay. But the view was wonderful.
To the east along the banks of the Nile an emerald strip
fringed with trees, tinder which nestled villages and ham-
lets, the lateen sails of the numerous boats moving to and
fro, the mosques and minarets of Cairo at the foot of
Mount Mokattam surrounded by gardens and trees, and
the canals conveying the life of all this fertility to the
soil, all these contributed to make a scene not easily-
forgotten. Westward the tombs, the limestone cliffs, and
the sand, and here and there in the yellow desert eighty
pyramids. One peculiarity about the tombs and other
vast structures is that they were built out of reach of the
rise of the Nile, and of course on land worthless for cul-
tivation. Arable land to the old Egyptians meant money,
taxable property, revenue. F. not only achieved the
420 MRS. SMYTH'S JOURNAL.
ascent, but resolved to see the whole thing through, pene-
trated to the interior, which was, owing to the stifling
heat and dust, the more disagreeable feat of the two. He
came out as nearly wilted as one cares to be, literally
bathed in perspiration, A cup of coffee and a careful
wrap of shawls as he took his place in the carriage soon
restored his equanimity, and we reached our hotel at Cairo
tired but satisfied w r ith our experience of the pyramid.
It is now known with reasonable certainty that each
king, as he began his reign, began also the mausoleum,
which would, it was hoped, forever conceal his remains,
or at least till after 4,000 years, when the soul was believed
to rejoin the body. Each year added to its height and
circumference, and at whatever period death occurred the
pyramid ceased to grow. The steps which resulted from
the manner of construction were then filled in with a
polished casing of stone beginning at the top, making one
perfectly smooth surface from top to bottom. Until this
outer case was broken away, of course no ascent was pos-
sible. The Pyramid of Cheops, which F. ascended, is be-
lieved to be 5,000 years old. Nothing short of an earth-
quake will probably ever disturb it. The sphinx, which
is not far from the great pyramid and which in these later
years has been excavated about, is found to be cut from
living rock, that is from the natural ledge, and is sixty-
four feet from the paws to the crown of the head. Orig-
inally a flight of steps led; up it, so that its height must
have been greater still from the plateau, as it was before
the desert encroached upon it. The Arabs call it the
" Father of Terrors.''
In [laying the guides F. was as good as his word, and
we afterwards learned that they trump ted the fame of his
munificence to every comer, and told how that " goo ood "
man had rewarded their exertions. It is extremely doubt-
ful, however, if he found any imitators.
THE SUE/ CANAL. 421
On the 8th of March F. left Cairo by rail for Suez,
wishing to go through the whole length of the canal,
while I with others of our Nile party started for Ismaila,
where he proposed to rejoin us. In the vicinity of Suez
is the place generally considered to he that where the
Israelites crossed ; before the construction of the break-
water it was possible to cross at low water, but the tide
rises quickly and with danger. The cliffs arc now shown
where the song of Miriam was heard. Ordinary passen-
gers over the canal have to go by night as the great mer-
chant ships have the right of way in the day and tie up
at night. The canal is 100 miles long, 26 feet deep, and
from 75 to 300 feet wide, the greatest width occurring in
some of the lakes which it connects, called the .Bitter
lakes, Lake Temsah, and Lake Mensaleh. Ismailia is
situated about midway on the canal on the shore of Lake
Temsah, and is supplied with fresh water from the Xile,
and sprang up from the necessities of the De Lesseps
Company. De L. has here a farm and residence, and the
ex-khedive a palace. Lake Mensaleh near Suez is one of
the most prolific hunting grounds or waters the world has
ever seen, the abundance of water-fowl and of fish being
enormous. From Ismailia we all went to Port Said by boat
and stopped there a day. The great feature of Port Said
is the breakwater, a mile and a half long, which had to be
built for the protection of the harbor. It was fearfully
hot, and we were glad to take refuge on the little steamer
of the Austrian Lloyds for Joppa.
CHAPTER XLI.
THE HOLY LAND. JAFFA.
As WE approached this ancient city after a very smooth
and pleasant voyage free from the desert heat and dust,
its white walls glittering on the hillsides made a very
imposing appearance. But alas ! it was too much like
the whited sepulchres, outwardly resplendent but within
dirty and filthy beyond description. The landing, fre-
quently dangerous, was this time achieved in small boats
with comparative ease. We were, moreover, rescued from
the clutches of the barbarians who clamored for our bag-
gage and backsheesh by the kind offices of Mr. Floyd, a
gentleman from Maine, who was leader in a colonization
scheme in this region. This old port, from whence Jonah
sailed, and where Peter dwelt with Simon the tanner, has
little to commend it to our interest otherwise. Its ear-
C5
dens, however, are famous and its oranges delicious,
They are large, oblong, thick skinned, very sweet, and
have no seeds. As they do not bear transportation, one
must go to Jaffa to get them. The streets are very nar-
row and steep, all up and down ; but there is an occasional
level space on the roof of a house, and from that said to
have been inhabited by Simon the tanner is a fine view of
the country and of the Mediterranean.
From our hotel we started for Jerusalem in wagons.
The road is rough, but somewhat improved since our
former trip. For a few miles out the way is bordered by
orange groves fenced by hedges of cactus, and then we
enter an extensive plain so thickly covered with flowers
that hardly a leaf was visible. Conspicuous among them
FROM JOPPA TO JERUSALEM. 423
wae the cyclamen, and a pink flower which may have
been the Rose of Sharon. We stop at Rarnlch, fifteen
miles or so out, a town distinguished in the times of the
crusaders, which has an interesting tower built after
the Saracen order of architecture about 1300 A. IX, accord-
ing to an inscription over the entrance. It is thought,
however, that the tablet with the date was inserted much
later than it was built, by invaders who wished the credit
of its erection. Here we spent the night and slept on the
house-top, a row of little rooms opening on a broad, flat
roof of the inn. Like all travelers in this region we
brought along our food, the inn furnishing room only.
Our next day lunch was taken under a fig tree in the val-
ley of Ajalon, where Joshua commanded the moon to stand
slill while the battle raged. Here we were surrounded
by localities made famous and familiar by Scripture;
Ram ah, Gibeah, Kirjath-jearim, and Mi/.peh stood round
about us. As the noontide heat began to wear off, we
took up our line of march. Rougher grew the roads,
more dislocating the motion of our carriage, brown and
sere the face of the desolate hills, and at every new turn
where the opening defile beckoned us on we looked in
vain with weary eyes to see Jerusalem. V\> and yet up
we slowly move until at last the Mount of Olives and the
city greet our vision. We push on to gain the shelter of
a new hotel outside the walls, which has been erected since
our former visit. Then we stopped at the Hotel Mt. Zion
near the Temple inclosure, but as we made a very ex-
haustive exploration of the city then, we now only made
a brief visit, seeing again the Mosque of Omar, the Mount
of Olives, (Jarden of Gethsemene, and the wailing-place
of the Jews outside the walls. "We also saw the results
of further explorations, bringing to light what are called
Solomon's stables, and pillars remaining from Pilate's
Judgment hall.
424 MRS. SMYTH'S JOURNAL.
On the morning of March 14 we started out quite a
caravan of our own on an expedition to the Jordan and
the Dead sea. All told we were quite a respectable num-
ber. Saddle horses and donkeys there were six, each
with a driver or attendant. Mr. Floyd, before mentioned,
a soldier ornamented with pistols, knives, and swords
wherever one could be hung on to him, as a guard, and
our courier. The guard with grim swagger marched in
the van. It was a beautiful morning as we went forth
from St. Stephen's gate over the brook Kedron, past
Gethsemane and up the Mount of Olives, and so on to
Bethany. It seems impossible that one .should ever go
over this route without feelings of the deepest interest.
While time and tradition both seem to have conspired to
bury the mere bodily footprints of our Saviour, yet this
is the sky under which He walked, the mountains on
which He looked, and back there as we turn in our way,
on that very spot stood the city that cast Him out. The
tombs of the prophets are there still, away to our left.
Soon we come to Bethany, the home of Mary and
Martha, and they point out to us what is called the tomb
of Lazarus. We lunched at a place said to be the site of
the inn where the good Samaritan brought the wounded
Jew on his own beast and paid for his care. However
this may be, we are certainly on the road to Jericho, and
not unlikely to fall among thieves. Our courier provided
us a most excellent lunch of chicken, bread, fruit, Jaffa
oranges, and wine. Refreshed and strengthened we
pushed on, reaching the brook Cherith, which was swollen
to quite a considerable stream. It is said to be in the
Wady Kelt, an almost inacessible ravine full of cliffs and
caves, near where we crossed, that Elijah was concealed.
There is some dispute about the locality of the brook, but
there were certainly ravens enough flying about here to
have provided him with abundance of bread. Here, in
TO THE JORDAN. 425
this brook, we heard a very animated chorus of frogs, the
only one we heard in our travels, Egypt being apparently
free from them. Of course they pointed out to us the
locality of the cave where Elijah lay concealed, and no
doubt some convent, rich in relics, can show a dry crust,
if not a stuffed raven, belonging to the same period. The
fact is, that our general impressions connected with Scrip-
ture localities are such as to confirm our faith, but when
we descend to particulars for which there can be no war-
rant the effect is reversed. And then it seems that this
belief in externals, which one can see and handle, serves
to deaden spiritual impressions. If these things were
needful to keep alive our faith, we may be sure the de-
struction would not have been so entire. In our further
route to Jericho we came to the fountains of Elisha, which
the prophet healed and caused to become sweet. The
land in the vicinity of Oherith and of the fountains of
Elisha is irrigated from them so as to produce crops.
From here we made a detour through the hot plain
which lies at the foot of the barren hills we have been
descending, and visited the site of that ancient .Jericho
whose walls fell at the blowing of the rams' horns. No
vestige of it now remains, the ruins visible evidently be-
longing to a later epoch. The modern village of that
name consists of not more than fifty or sixty houses built
low and thatched with any refuse vegetable matter at
hand upon which earth is heaped. The only noteworthy
object is a square tower thirty or thirty-five feet high,
which is called the house of Zaccheus. Xear this the
Russians have built a convent and hospice within a dozen
or more years. Here we found the sheik of the Jordan
valley who, having been introduced to us and learning
that F. had like 1 himself been governor of a province,
straightway paid us every attention. lie had, it seems,
been a most noted robber, lewin^ tribute on all the region :
426 MRS. SMYTH'S JOURNAL.
he carried seven bullets which had taken lodgings in his
body during his predatory warfare, and was marked with
slashes and saber cuts innumerable. The government at
last was glad to bribe him bv giving him what it could
/ cr> o
not take from him. He had laid up money, and was edu-
cating a son in Paris. He was a tine specimen physically,
and most superbly mounted on the fleetest of Arab steeds
on which he went plunging and caracoling about us. He
gave us his personal escort to the Jordan and also procured
us entrance to the Russian hospice at Jericho. To myself
he was very attentive and gallant. Once when my horse
came near being stampeded I screamed involuntarily,
when he rushed to my aid and fairly caught me in his
arms as I came near sliding from the saddle. At the
Jordan, also, he naively offered his assistance as I bathed
my feet. When our caravan moved he rode in front, his
eyes restlessly exploring every shrub and cranny of the
path for lurking foe or hostile Bedouin.
We were rather disappointed at the swiftness and tur-
bulence of the muddy current that swept through the
steep banks of the, Jordan. Certain it is that only by
miracle could the Israelites have crossed at this point.
However, having come thus far F. decided to bathe in its
waters, a project which he carried out at no small risk
and with much resulting inconvenience. Happening to
wound his foot on the rough, stony bottom, it became in-
tensely painful, and there was not the means of any sur-
gical appliance for miles. Xot a reed or twig, or stick of
more substance than the cactus to twist into any means of
relieving the wounded limb in the saddle, so that the re-
turn to Jerusalem was not altogether so agreeable. There
was, however, no permanent injury.
This was the place in Jordan, which tradition assigns
as the spot where Jesus was baptized of John. The
shores on this side slope gradually down, and on the oppo-
BETHANY AND BETHLEHEM. 427
site are forbidding bluffs. These characteristics, varying
from one side to the other, prevail through its course.
From Jericho to the Dead sea it was about four hours'
ride. Nothing can be imagined more dreary and desolate
than the sight of this bitter lake. Its waters look bright
and glittering in the sun, but they are unmoved by the
wind and are very bitter to the taste. We spent the night
at Jericho, and in the morning started again for Jerusa-
lem, and on our way the landscape revealed to us many a
familiar site, tamiltar at least by name, as of the
mountains of Moab and Edom, Mount Nebo, Pisgah, and
the Mount of Temptation, and on the east the mountains
of Gilead and Bashan. We lunched at the brook Cherith.
Near us were ruins of an immense aqueduct crossing the
brook more than sixty feet above the bottom. It once
supplied water from a fountain a hundred feet higher still,
the canal from which is still to be traced. As we came
nearer to Jerusalem the patches of growing grain in fer-
tile spots relieved the otherwise barren cliffs, and at the
base of the hill ascending to Bethany we dismounted, let
our horses drink at the fountain En-shemish, where are
remains of a ruined cistern. Tradition has it that our
Lord and his disciples often drank at this fountain.
I walked on up the hill to Bethany. The Arabs, who
are its onlv inhabitants, call it El'Azariveh, or the village
, . O
of Lazarus. What is called the grave of Lazarus is the
only object pointed out to us with claims of identity with
that named in Scripture. The house of Mary and Martha
once had a convent built on its supposed site, but these
buildings have been long destroyed. Bethany, to every
believer in the story of Christ, is a beautiful name, but
there is nothing in the forlorn cluster of dwellings on this
hillside to bring back the old picture, the home that was
hallowed by his footsteps. But the scenery is all im-
pressive. Over this road to Jerusalem crossing a spur of
428 MRS. SMYTH'S JOURNAL.
Olivet He must have walked. JS T ext in interest outside
of the great city are Bethlehem and the field of the
shepherds. This is something less than two hours' ride
from Jerusalem, and even apart from the great interest
conferred by its history is a picturesque place. The
hills gradually rising to the summit crowned by the con-
vents and Church of the Nativity are beautiful, with vine-
yards, fig, olive, and pomegranate trees, while the fields in
the vallev below are sreen with spring-ino- wheat. In
v C3 1. ? ~
those fields Ruth gleaned in harvest time, and somewhere
in this region the shepherds watched their flocks when
the song of the angels was heard and the birth of the
Saviour proclaimed. Here, also, David was born and
tended his father's sheep when a boy. From here, with
boyish patriotism, he went up to the army to see his broth-
ers, and slew the giant Philistine. The Church of the
Xativity is very ancient, the basilica, erected by the
Empress Helena, mother of Constantine, being clearly
the oldest Christian church in existence. Its date is 327
A. D. As early as the first half of the second century
the birthplace of Christ was spoken of as being in a cave
near the village of Bethlehem. The tradition was not
likely to have erred in so remarkable a matter for three
or four hundred years. We descend by a narrow stair-
way from the church to a low cave, where upon a marble
slab in the floor is fixed a star with the words, " Here
Jesus Christ was born of the Virgin Mary." Around it
hang sixteen silver lamps which are kept constantly
burning.
About a mile from Bethlehem we pass the tomb of
Rachel, a spot about which there is no dispute. It is
covered with a small domed tower of Mohammedan con-
struction. "And Rachel died, and was buried in the way
to Ep. rath, which is Bethlehem. And Jacob set a pillar
upon her grave; that is the pillar of Rachel's grave unto
POOLS OF SOLOMON. 429
this day." So the pillar was there in the time of Moses,
and how much longer no history tells us.
One day as we rode about Jerusalem on the outside we
visited the Pools of Solomon. They are about six miles
from the city and are in a good state of repair, though
not used as they must have been once. There are three
of them capable of holding in all nearly nine and a half
million gallons, and having a superficial area of six and
one fourth acres. The largest is fifty feet deep, and the
other two twenty-five. They are connected by a subter-
ranean passage with a fountain, which also, independently
of the pools, supplies water once used for the temple
service, and for Bethlehem. Whether Solomon's or not,
they are quite worth}* of his name. These pools are partly
cut in the rock and partly built of stone masonry. They
are supposed once to have been surrounded by gardens
and vines. Xorth of Jerusalem are the tombs of the
kings and of the judges, which we saw. If we concede
that the Jewish people to-day are " peeled and scattered "
in accordance with prophecy, the ruins which yet exist
make it no less certain that they were once a nation full
of enterprise and vigor, and those who deny the truth of
the Scripture narrative have many more unaccountable
facts to run against than those who admit it.
On the day that we visited the Pools of Solomon we
took our way through the Golden Gate, through the val-
ley of flehoshaphat and of Ilinnom, passing the tombs of
Absalom, Zachariah, and St. James, and the well of Kn-
rogel. Many other scenes we call to memory in and
about the holy city which \ve took great pleasure and in-
terest in visiting, as Gethsemane, the pool of Siloam and
of Bethesda, the Sepulchre, the Via Dolorosa, and the
extensive excavations in progress about the site of the
ancient foundations. Also quite as wonderful in their
way as anything to be seen are the quarries under the
430 MRS. SMYTH'S JOURNAL.
city. Here the stone was hewn and fitted doubtless for
the temple, and the excavations are vast enough to have
built the entire modern city and have much left. We
enter by a hole near the Damascus gate. The height is
from ten to thirty feet, and rough, irregular supports were
left to the roof. It is in the vicinity of two acres in ex-
tent. We could not help thinking that here some of the
workmen of Solomon may have plied the hammer and
chisel. There is one huge block left here as it was
finished.
On the 2d of April we started on our return to Jaffa,
and lunched at Emmaus. Nothing now remains to indi-
cate what the place may have been in the time of Christ.
There are ruins of a church and fortifications dating from
the times of the crusaders, and it is said to have been re-
built by the Romans early in the third century. From
here to Ramleh and on, the route is through a region of
delightful fertility. The next station of interest was
Lydda, from which place Peter was called to Joppa on
account of the death of Dorcas. It is a village situated
amid beautiful gardens, groves of palm, fig, olive, mul-
berry, and pomegranate trees. There are some ruins of a
fine church, the usual mosque, and a rather busy, thriving
population. It is on this route also, somewhere in the
vicinity of Emmaus, that tradition assigns the field where
David killed Goliath. They even showed us the brook
whence came the smooth stone that brought the Philistine
low. As we near Joppa, I am reminded of our reception
there five years ago by a certain eccentric Russian baron,
very old and very wealthy. lie was made known to us
by Mr. Shapira, the Jewish dealer in Eastern wares and
manuscripts at Jerusalem. He (the baron) was an enthu-
siastic naturalist and had a fine show of specimens, bot-
tled, dried, and stuffed, with fishes and other aquatic crea-
tures in tanks and aquariums; in short, he was a virtuoso
THK RUSSIAN BARON. 431
of the old school, and had, moreover, a young and fascinat-
ing wife of whom he was said to be jealous, and so had
taken her to this out of the way place to live, as being free
from rivals. They both, however, received us with every
appearance of cordiality. Madame, the baroness, was ex-
tremely vivacious, well educated, intelligent, and a line
musician. They occupied a splendid suite of rooms at
the hotel, and gave much money to the poor. He was at
that time beginning the erection of a hospital for free use
of the poor and sick. On our return this second time to
Jaffa, the hospital was finished and they were residing in
one wing. The lady appeared delighted to see us, and re-
ceived us like old friends. They gave us an entertainment
at their house, and she especially delighted us with " Sweet
Home " played on a magnificent piano, and many other
pieces performed with all the grace of a finished musician.
I was amused as she moved about her rooms to hear her
constant calls upon Abdallah, her devoted servant, not
less in years than his master ; he was indefatigable in
meeting her requirements. At the hotel we were some
distance from the port and the baron oIFered us his horses,
only one of which was gentle enough for a lady's use, so
when we left I mounted, and a servant walked by my side
through the steep, narrow streets to the water. A fiercer
steed, such as becomes a Bedouin pasha, was brought for
F., but with wise discretion he concluded that it was safer
getting down hill on foot.
The Sunday before, we attended service at the school ot
the American mission, and were much pleased with the
appearance of the work, and on a fresh and lovely Mon-
day morning took our leave of the ancient Joppa by the
Austrian steamer for Ueyrout.
Our morning voyage northward, on the blue Medi-
terranean, along the coast of Samaria and Galilee, was
very pleasant. We passed in sight of Oesarea, Moui.t
432 MRS. SMYTH'S JOURNAL.
Carmel, Tyre and Sidon. At the foot of Mount Carmel,
whoso bold headland forms the southern shore of the Bay
of Acre, we stopped several hours. From Mount Carmel
is a most magnificent view of the sea and surrounding
country. We did not visit the Carmelite convent on the
top, but saw the monks of that ilk. We had previously
met them in various places, and found some of them
intelligent and agreeable people. We reached Beyrout at
7 P. M., and were driven at once to the Oriental hotel.
The situation of Beyrout cannot well be more beautiful,
and it justifies the wisdom of the American Board in
making it their base of operations in Syria. We visited
the Bible house, where all the printing for Eastern lands
is done, also, on invitation from Dr. Post and Mr. Bliss,
the Syrian College and the Female Seminary. The Mis-
sion church is a very neat and tasty affair, and the ap-
pearance of things was in the highest degree compli-
mentary to the efficiency of the business skill and tact
of the managers. There is now a iine road across Mount
Lebanon to Damascus by diligence, and a small army of
men constantly employed in keeping the route in repair.
For this journey we took an early start one day, rising
at half-past four. We are rapidly whirled along through
a fertile region, wheat fields, vineyards, fig and mul-
berry trees 1 (ordering the way on either side. We have
fresh animals every hour, and so our horses are at their
best. As we rise into the mountain region, there are
tine villas, where the rich citizens of Beyrout fly from the
summer heat. We were a little over thirteen hours in
making the sixty miles to Damascus, including stops, and
about 6 i'. M. reached the Hotel Demetri, well known to
all travelers that way. Damascus is not so fortunate as
to have escaped the changes which have befallen other
places, but remains much as it was when the Apostle
Paul was struck down at its gate, and the valley of the
DAMASCUS. 433
Abana and Pharpar is charming enough to have war-
ranted the reply of Naaman when the prophet bade him
wash in the Jordan. It was an ancient city in the days
of Abraham, whose servant Eliezer dwelt there. Babylo-
nians, Persians, Romans, Saracens, and Turks in turn have
possessed it, and it was for three centuries the Syrian capi-
tal, and at one time was a Christian bishopric. To-day it
is flourishing still. The soil is abundantly fruitful ; apri-
cots, dates, almonds, and figs abound. All the character-
istic traits of Syrian life are seen here at their best ; there
is no modern quarter, but a genuine flavor of Oriental
life. The Abana is a clear, rushing, mountain stream,
freshening and fertilizing the region through which it
flows, and in the hottest days the eternal snows of
Mount Hermon seem to waft a cooling benediction to
whoever looks upon it. The streets are very narrow and
hardly admit of a carriage. We did, however, use one
except in that street which is called " Strait," and which
is not, as the sound of the name would imply, by any
means the shortest distance between two points. It is,
moreover, encumbered by bazaars where silver filigree
work is offered for sale. Of course we saw the " place in
the wall," the window of the house built against the
outer city wall, whence St. Paul was let down in a bas-
ket, and also, u to make assurance doubly sure,'' the tomb
of the servant who let him down, christened "St.
George." The place of St. Paul's conversion and the
site of Xaaman's house were pointed out to us. Other
traditional places, as the house of Ananias and of Judas,
we saw, though on what probable claim it is hard to
imagine. There are some delightful drives about the
O C>
environs, through gardens and groves, and everywhere
the snow-white head of Hermon was visible. Outside
the city walls, at the distance of a mile, is a place called
" God's Gate," where pilgrims assemble in camp before
28
434 MRS. SMYTH'S JOURNAL.
departure for Mecca. Thousands of them hold camp-
meetings there, and it is probable that they are located
there for sanitary reasons. In 1860 occurred the massacre
of the Christians by the Druses, those fierce and fanati-
cal men of Mount Lebanon. Twenty-six hundred were
slain, and are buried in one cemetery outside the city
walls. United European opinion forced the Sultan to
bring the murderers to justice, and their heads were
liberally distributed about the city.
The diligence for Bey rout is ready. We are to leave our
pleasant rooms looking out upon a courtyard with foun-
tains and goldfish, with orange and lemon trees, with its
balconies and stone stairways, for the ride across the
mountains. As before, we started in the early morning
along the course of the Abana, which we followed to its
source. At our stopping places along the way were
fountains and prayer stations where devout travelers
could perform their devotions and their ablutions as well.
There were priests on board, who hurried through the
business, always in season for the start. One young
blood, however, evidently a high toned Moslem, took so
much time in removing his shoes and stockings (super-
fluous articles which the others did not indulge in) that
the diligence was just on the point of starting. Although
in apparently devout prayer, he cast a side glance at us,
and on F. making a motion for him to hurry up, he
snatched up his foot gear and started. All the passengers
smiled as he clambered on in the very nick of time.
Our objective point this time was Baalbec. A line
running from Damascus to Beyrout, in direction a little
north of west, forms the base of a triangle of which
Baalbec is the apex. At Esturia, a station on the way,
said to have been the home of Agrippa, we changed con-
veyances for Baalbec, about thirty miles distant. It was
through a rough and mountainous countrv, and we were
BAALBEC. 435
glad to descend into the plain and reach the recently
built establishment dignified by the name of Hotel Pal-
myra, which was, however, so near a running brook, or the
river of Baalbec, that it proved nearly impossible to sleep.
The ruins at Baalbec are very grand, and the size of
some of the stones high in the walls excited our profound
amazement. Here are remains of temples quite as im-
posing as any to be found in Greece, but the workmanship
does not appear to be so fine. Baalbec is situated in a
valley sometimes called " Hollow Syria," between Leb-
anon and Anti-Lebanon, and is near the hills on the eastern
side. All around, looking from the great Temple of the
Sun, are ruins on ruins, and from this tumultuous sea
arises here and there one, two, or a half-dozen columns.
At a little distance may be seen the quarries, with one
huge monolith sixty-eight feet long and 18 by 16 feet in
thickness. We returned the next morning to Esturia,
and while there had the rare good fortune to meet six
American missionaries. It was a pleasant lunch. They
were on their way to and from their various fields of
labor, and we were as glad to get the insight they were
able to give us into the aftairs of Syria as they could be
to see people fresh from their native land.
Nothing can well be more beautiful than the view of
Beyrout and the sea which opens to sight from the dili-
gence route as we approach the end of our journey. It
has also an added interest arising from the strong position
held by the American Missions, a point of advance for
the regeneration of Syria.
From Beyrout we took a French steamer for Smyrna.
Mr. Bliss accompanied us as far as Tripoli, after which
there were no English-speaking people on board. The
voyage, however, was for the most part very pleasant,
good weather, quiet seas, and rest from long rides on
land. Tripoli has some remains of crusading times and
436 MRS. SMYTH'S JOURNAL.
is favored b} T the majestic background of Mount Leba-
non, which rises to the height of 10,000 feet. "We next
touched at Latakia, anciently Laodicea, about seventy
miles north of Tripoli. This seat of a church which was
" neither cold nor hot," is now chiefly famous for its
tobacco. In the hot and fertile spaces between the foot-
hills the Turkish farmer cultivates the weed once con-
sumed only in the nargilehs of rich lords of the harem
but which is now mostly sold for the markets of France
and England. Here we met Miss Sears and Mr. Gates,
missionaries from Mardin, and two lads, en route from
Marash to the United States. As we go about the same
distance northward, still passing Antioch, which is mid-
way and about twenty miles inland, we reach the Gulf of
Iskanderoon on which Alexandretta is situated. Here a
land wind, both hot and furious, detained our ship three
days, being unable to discharge her freight. We were
now in the province of Aleppo, and this pestilential
place, built in the marshes, is the seaport of the capital,
some sixty -five miles inland.
We next touched at Mersin. Near here the river Cyd-
nus comes down to the sea from Tarsus, the birthplace of
Paul, and along the shore may be seen yet standing Co-
rinthian columns of some ruined city. From thence we
went on to Rhodes. This island is apparently not more
than twenty-live miles in length and from eight to nine
in its greatest width, so that if in its ancient glory there
were 3,000 statues there, and other buildings in propor-
tion, it must have been pretty thoroughly covered. Near
the harbor is a gateway flanked by towers, and in the
wall the foundations of the Colossus. The ruins to be
seen on the island now are chiefly those of crusading
times. We saw the palace of the Grand Master of the
Knights of St. John and remains of the church of that
name. The one long street had some ancient buildings
EPHESUS. 437
with heraldic insignia carved on their fronts. From
Rhodes we passed on, by and in sight of Samos, Patmos,
and Chios, into the Gulf of Smyrna. It must have been
a busy time when the islands of the ./Egean each contrib-
uted its share to the arts and commerce of the main
land. For the present, malarial suns, bad governments,
and earthquakes have moved the star of empire westward.
Before saying much about Smyrna it may be as well to
note our visit to Ephcsus, a place of not less historic
interest in connection with the spread of the religion of
Christianity than any other in Asia Minor. Situated
about forty-five miles southwest from Smyrna, opposite
Samos, and at the mouth of the Cayster, its magnificent
port afforded entry for all the commerce of the region,
and the fame of its temples, theaters, and race-course
was not surpassed anywhere in proconsular Asia. Here
St. Paul dwelt two years, and over the church he set his
beloved Timothy. The Xew Testament let us into the
civil administration of the city, which was more than a
thousand years old in the apostle's day. The courts, the
town clerk, the silversmith, and the coppersmith are
familiar acquaintances. But as we approached by rail
and entered the station at Ayasaluk, the towers of several
ruined mosques, each with an enormous stork's nest on
top, attracted our attention. Going on about a mile, the
ruins of an immense city disclosed themselves. Recent
excavations have brought to light many buildings, the use
of which is undetermined. Between Mount Prion and
Mount Coressus we saw the Magnesian gate, and then
fallen marble columns for a long way: the theater, an
immense building capable of seating 24,000 people, the
Stadium, or place of Olympic games, and the Odeum,
with beautiful columns of syenite and marble seats and
steps, where musical entertainments are supposed to have
taken place, and last but not least the remains of the great
438 MRS. SMYTH'S JOURNAL.
Temple of Diana itself. Ninety columns of finest white
marble formed the double outer colonnade. Of these,
some sections have been unearthed, and more doubtless
are yet to come. In our walk through the fields of
growing wheat, which was about six inches high, we saw
numerous women and children, clad mostly in dresses of
gay color, engaged in plucking out the tares; at least, so
we were given to understand, although it is said that this
weed so nearly resembles wheat or barley that in a cer-
tain stage of growth it is almost impossible to distinguish
between the two. We saw what they said were ruins of
a prison where St. Paul wa's confined. As we could not
prove the fact to be otherwise, we did not dispute it.
Afterwards we saw in the church of St. Sophia, at Con-
stantinople, pillars said to have been taken from the
Temple of Diana.
But we must return to Smyrna and over the region
where St. Paul doubtless many a time has walked. The
steam horse draws us on. Our cars, to be sure, are second
class, shaky, dust-admitting box-cars, with boards laid
across supports for seats. As I somewhat disconsolately
regarded the situation, F. remarked that I had been
putting on airs and traveling as only nobles and crowned
heads can do, and now I had to come down. The Eastern
nations certainly develop much poetical imagination.
London, Paris, and Xew York convey no idea by their
names, and while the names of the Oriental cities have
usually meanings aside from their common use, each
place has its "pet name.'' Thus Smyrna is the '"Pearl of
the Orient/' It had its Greek days of greatness and
contained a temple, or, as we should say to-day, memorial
hall, dedicated to Homer, whose birthplace it claimed to
be. But we know that it was the home of Polycarp and
of John, the beloved apostle, and the seat of one of the
seven churches.
SMYRNA. 439
We visited the mission schools and church, and were
more especially interested in the- work of Mr. Constantine.
He has established, by the aid of friends in America and
elsewhere, a place which he calls the " Smyrna Rest,"
pleasant rooms where the usual Oriental refreshments of
pipes and coffee are furnished, a reading-room and chapel
attached, where Mr. C. preaches to attentive and crowded
audiences. We were all the more pleased at this successful
enterprise from our former acquaintance with Mr. and
Mrs. Constantine in Athens, and from recollections of
their visit soon after at our home. Since that time Mr.
Constantine has gone to Constantinople, and is doing a
very good work there. F. not infrequently expresses in-
terest in his progress and sends him now and then a
contribution. In this port are seen many Greek sailors,
as well as others from all nations, and the means used are
well adapted to gain their attention. The American
Board have very tine, substantial buildings here for their
work. Aside from these features, Smyrna is in many re-
spects interesting. Like most seaport towns of the Orient,
its variety of population is very picturesque. Greeks,
Jews, Turks, Armenians, Russians, Persians, English,
French, and Americans, all contribute a share in the vari-
ous groups that throng the cafes and public ways. The
bridge of caravans across the Meleus and the processions
of camels one occasionally sees there, and the customs
guard-house where the octroi duties are levied, are
curious in their way. The best view of the city, how-
ever, is from the fortification of ancient Smyrna, called
the Acropolis. The white houses with red-tiled roofs,
the groves of cyprus and cedar, the blue waters of the
harbor, and the clear sky overhead make a delightful
scene. The houses, doubtless taking warning from
earthquake experiences, are low, the white fronts painted
in blue arabesque or with foliage, and not seldom with
440 MRS. SMYTH'S JOURNAL.
bird-houses between the windows for the sparrows or
bluebirds.
Having made our adieus to our missionary friends, we
went on board the steamer Mendoza and passed out
through the fine harbor and gulf. Our course is nearly due
north, and after about seventy-five miles we leave
Mitylene, the ancient Lesbos and birthplace of Sappho,
on the left. Forty miles farther on is Lemnos, where Vul-
can struck when he was thrown out of heaven, so the story
goes, and nearly opposite, as we sail, the Troad, the site
of Troy and scene of Homer's song. A more abject,
wretched, and utterly played out population than occupies
the plains once made famous by such deeds of demi-gods
and heroes can hardly be imagined. We now soon draw
near the strait of the Dardanelles and pass between two
forts, one on the European and the other on the Asiatic side.
Not far hence Xerxes built his bridge of boats and ordered
the sea to be flogged for its unseemly behavior and
disrespect, and here, too, Leander and Lord Byron swam
the Hellespont, which is at this place 875 feet wide.
Across the Sea of Marmora and around Seraglio Point,
we approach the Golden Horn. At this time there was
quite a cold wind blowing down from the Black sea and
some feathery particles of snow fell upon deck. A fat
and fluffy old Turk, attended assiduously by a couple
of his wives, who held an umbrella over his head,
was much puzzled by the phenomenon. He had never
seen snow before and said that it was cotton. From what
part of the Turkish Empire he had come up to visit
Istarnboul did not appear, but his early education had
been neglected. Happy man ! He knew nothing about
the discussion /// re "Beautiful Snow."
Constantinople, as it opens to view at the Golden Horn,
is very striking in its beauty. First, the usually clear
.sky and absence of smoke that disfigures so many great
CONSTANTINOPLE. 441
cities ; then the position, the houses without intervention
of wharves dipping into the very water and thence reced-
ing up the hills all about; on our right rises the huge
barrack at Scutari, and further on, in the waters, a white
lighthouse, then the cannon foundry and the Mosque of
Sultan Mohammed ; the tower of Galata with a brazen
cupola, and Pera crowning its hill with the European res-
idences of stone ; then the mosques of Seraglio Point
with their minarets rising out of a forest of verdure, and
the houses in variety of color rising street after street on
this superb amphitheatre, overtopped by the high tower
of the Scraskier, where watchmen stand night and day to
give the alarm of tire. All this, set off as it is by the
multitude of boats darting about everywhere among and
around ships and steamers of every nation, forms a scene
surpassing one's wildest anticipations.
There is always something interesting to be seen in the
bazaars. The building called the Grand Bazaar has every
variety of article that can appeal to fancy or taste in its
innumerable stalls. It is overarched and lighted from the
cupolas which rise from its flat roof. In these dimly
lighted little streets, exquisite perfumes, Persian mirrors,
shawls and carpets, antique arms, yataghans, rich silks,
cashmeres, tans, scent boxes, slippers, jewelry, and dia-
monds of fabulous price may be seen, and if one does
not wish to purchase there is entertainment enough in
watching those who do trade, with their curious foreign
ways. The shops, outside of this, are mostly little boxes
with shutters hinged at the top, which, being opened,
form awnings, and there the merchant sits among his
wares, seemingly indifferent whether you buy or not.
The drug bazaar is also a most unique and vaguely
mysterious place. The merchant, like a magician out of
the "Arabian Xights," sits cross-legged amid his bales,
sacks, and heaps of henna, sandal-wood, mastic, ginger,
442 MRS. SMYTH'S JOURNAL.
opium, hasheesh, and other pungently odorous articles
which we think of as coming from nobody knows where,
but which seem here to be perfectly at home, and with
such superb indifference that one would surely not be
so ill-mannered as to ask him to sell. But it is in the
Grand Bazaar that the women of the harem do most
spend their time and the money of their lords. But for
themselves, alas ! they dress in the Paris fashions.
We went to see the dancing dervishes. Their convent
is on Mount Pera, in the midst of a cemetery. The
apartments of this so-called convent are light, cheerful,
and in gay colors, and surrounding a court. The hall
where the ceremony takes place has a polished floor like
a ball-room, and is inclosed by a circular fence about
three feet high. There is also a balcony supported on
slender pillars. This is provided with a box for the
Sultan and latticed inclosures for the women. There is a
pulpit inscribed with passages from the Koran, and an
orchestra opposite. Into this inclosure come the dervishes,
two and two, headed by the Iman. He seats himself on
a mat in front of the pulpit, and they all render him
obeisance. They wear brown felt caps, white jackets,
with tunics of the same color, and close, white trousers.
After their prayers, they march around the hall, the
music of flutes and drums strikes up. one of them opens
his arms and begins slowly to turn on his bare feet; his
tunics rises with the motion, as we school girls used to
make a cheese; swifter and swifter yet he goes, others one
by one follow, the flutes and tarboukas send forth shrill
and weird notes : the floor is one mass of spinning white
clouds so swiftly moving that it makes one dizzy to look
at them. After a while there is a pause, and then a
renewal fiercer and more tanatical yet. until at last one
after another sinks in sheer exhaustion, and they soon
after leave the hall.
THE DERVISHES. 443
As a counterpart to this dizzy, religious waltz, we went
to see the howling dervishes at Scutari. They also have
what we style a convent, and a hall where the sick are
brought and children to be treated. As before, the Iman,
or priest, sits in front of his pulpit. On the walls are
suspended various horrible looking instruments with
wlfich the devotees torture themselves, and the dervishes,
ranged facing the priests, swing their heads backward and
forward, chanting in unison. This process is continued
for some time, apparently for the purpose of getting up
the excitement; present!} 7 they rise, wagging their heads
with increased violence, and with hands placed on each
other's shoulders begin to howl from the lowest gutteral
depths the name of Allah. The violence of the scene is
indescribable ; throwing themselves backward and forward
in a simultaneous plunge, their eyes flashing and mouths
foaming like so many inmates of bedlam, until the ter-
rible storm subsided into a mere inarticulate chorus of
indistinguishable grunts like wild beasts. They then
began to pierce their cheeks with poniards and cut
themselves with knives. After this process, which it
appears is but an invocation to Allah to appear and heal
the sick, the patients came in to be stepped on by the
priest; first men, then young men and boys, and lastly
children, and even mere babies. The priest was by no
means a light weight, and he set his feet squarely on the
backs, breasts, legs, and arms of his prostrate patients.
On the smaller children and babies he seemed to let up a
little, resting part of his weight on his attendants: but
the poor things looked red in the face and cried out as
though about to burst a blood vessel. After this, it was
made known to me that women were to be treated by the
same process, and I was invited to witness the scene.
Taking it for granted that I could have come to such a
place only from some need like their own, these women
444 MRS. SMYTH'S JOURNAL.
urged and besought me to lie down with them and be
trodden on, and so eager were they that the Iman, who
knew better the state of the case, interfered for my
protection. He took water and breathed on it, which
they all drank of, and this they also urged me to drink.
Talking with some of them through our interpreter, they
expressed the utmost faith in the cure. " And what,*' I
asked, " if you do not get better?" "Oh. it is all right;
it is God's will;" and beyond the Turkish wall of fate
you cannot get. There is one custom which reminds one
of the scape-goat of the Israelites. A mosque called
the "Pigeon Mosque" is the resort of multitudes of pi-
geons, which blacken the air in their flight. To this place
penitents resort, casting a grain or grains for every sin,
which the pigeon forever flies away with.
The Mosque of St. Sophia is declared by some travelers
to have the most impressive interior of any religious edi-
fice in the world, St. Peter's at Rome not excepted, and
Justinian, when he had finished it, exclaimed that he had
beaten Solomon. It was built from the spoils of the
ancient world and replaced that built by Constantine,
which was burned. The wonderful dome is supported by
columns from the Temple of Diana at Ephesus, and from
the Temple of the Sun at Baalbec. Two immense urns
of porphyry from Pergamos contain water for ablutions.
Above the place where the altar used to be hangs one
of the four carpets on which Mahomet knelt in prayer.
The pulpit is reached by a staircase which has marvel-
ously carved balustrades, and immense green plaques
fastened to the walls have inscriptions in gold from the
Koran. From the dome depend cords to which are
attached ostrich's eggs, and wire frames for chande-
liers. The effect of the vast expanse, with its sky-light
dome, its mosaic floors covered with prayer mats, the four
cherubim of the galleries, and the dim figure, only partly
CONSTANTINOPLE. 445
obscured by Moslem whitewash, looking down from the
arch over the place of the altar, goes far to justify the ad-
miration of visitors. Entering here, as in all other
mosques, we deposit our shoes and are given sandals of
straw, so as not to profane the sacred precinct. The ex-
terior is not so impressive, as, between the huge bastions
erected to steady the walls, intirrn from earthquake shocks,
are shops, booths, tombs, and baths, while the dome
arising from its minarets appears rather heavy.
From this last and crowning glory of Constantinople
we turn to the college and the missions of an older and
yet younger faith before setting our faces homeward, pre-
mising that there are a thousand things worthy of men-
tion which we saw but made no note of. It will hardly
do, however, to say nothing of one feature which is pecu-
liar to this port, the thousands of caiques, or Turkish
canoes, which are seen darting about everywhere. They
comfortably seat four, and the owner, in his picturesque
white costume, with the red fez and striped sash, is usually
a well-developed specimen of a Greek or Arnaout. Greeks
are seen in numbers throughout Constantinople and espe-
cially seek employ as boatmen or guides. Arnaout is the
Turkish word for Albanian, a tribe or race somewhat
similar in their characteristics to the Greeks. It is a mys-
tery to most people, I fancy, why these races were so easily
subdued, and have been so long under the yoke of the Otto-
man empire. The caique is about fifteen or twenty feet
long by three in width, and is often fitted with elegantly
carved seats and carpets, and sometimes ornamented with
gilding. Incoming steamers are beset by scores of these
boats, all eager for passengers. Passing from Pera to Scu-
tari it is the common conveyance.
Our personal observation of mission work at Constanti-
nople was confined to Robert College and to the Young
Women's Home. The former is well known, and seems
446 MRS. SMYTH'S JOURNAL.
to be doing a most excellent work in offering a higher
education to the young men of the races practically
emancipated in the Russian war, and as a witness to the
superior nature of a Christian over a Mohammedan civili-
zation, which must one day be felt. This work is sup-
plemented by an effort quite as important when one con-
siders the condition of the women of these countries, to
show the nature of a true home. Under the very prac-
tical instruction, young women and girls are trained in
simple household duties as well as in the elements of an
education adapted to their needs. It is a very pleasant
school to visit.
Having devoted all the time to the city of Constantine
that we could spare, we bade adieu to the shadow of the
Sublime Porte and to our dragoman, M. Triantaphilos
Papadopaulos, of the Hotel de Byzance, and made our
way to the steamer, which was ready to take us through
the Bosphorus into the Black sea and on to Varna.
It was a rough passage of about 150 miles which
brought us in darkness and a furious rain storm to our
destination, and one of the most unpleasant passages in
all our travels. To climb down the side of the pitching,
rolling steamer into a boat which every moment seemed
about to be swallowed up in the watery darkness was
enough to try the steadiest nerves. It was as though one
should undertake to go down from the roof of a common
two-story house in a furious wind and dark night by a
swinging ladder, nay, worse, for it seemed very uncertain
whether there was anything to set foot on at the bottom.
Those who were less fortunate than myself in respect to
waterproofs were wet to the skin, and when we got to shore
we had to be lifted bodily out of the boat. Such are some
of the obstructions to commerce which exist in this region.
Varna is the city where the combined forces of France and
England met previous to the descent on the Crimea.
THE DANUBE VALLEY. 447
Crossing Bulgaria by rail we reached Rustchuk and were
taken across the swollen and turbid spring waters of the
Danube by boat (not by any means the beautiful blue Dan-
ube of the song), and kept on to Bucharest, which is the
capital of Roumania. This city on the river Dembovitza,
a tributary of the Danube, has about 250,000 inhabitants.
Its name signifies the " City of Joy," and there is an air
of enterprise and general stir which amply justifies its
emancipation from Turkish misrule. On our route
hither we were struck with the honest and industrious
look of the people, the fine cattle, thatched houses, and
tokens of growth. The city boasts a horse railroad, has
numerous gardens, cafes, and public squares. There are
also marks of Russian customs, such as the use of sledges
in winter and the droschke in summer. One sees a mixed
population of Russians, Greeks, Jews, French, Swiss,
Armenians, and Bulgarians. The Roumanians and
Bulgarians are much alike in appearance and habit,
and are making wonderful. progress since their emancipa-
tion from Turkish rule. Spending the night here at a
good hotel, we pushed on for Buda-Pesth, cities situated
on either side of the Danube and connected by a fine sus-
pension bridge. The route over a spur of the Carpathian
Mountains and through the Iron Gate into the Danube val-
ley is full of interest. The Iron Gate is a passage com-
manded by a strongly fortified island on the Hungarian
border. Buda is on the right bank of the river, and the
bridge is 1,227 feet long by 39 wide. The situation is
very fine, and its importance is enhanced by the palace
and parliament house. There are also some mineral baths
of considerable repute, and a steam navigation company
which controls the travel and commerce of the Danube
for some distance.
From Buda to Vienna, about 160 miles by rail, mostly
in the vallev of the Danube, is an interesting ride. We
448 MRS. SMYTH'S JOUKNAL.
were favored with mild weather. The population is sim-
ply immense through all this land ; garden touches gar-
den, with frequent thickening into towns and cities.
After this we spent two days in Vienna, which seems but
a second Paris, and will not need from ordinary travelers
like us a detailed description. As we journeyed along
via Munich, Bavaria, Saxony, and the valley of the
Neckar, we could but wonder at the crowded population
and how it could be possible to find bread for so many
mouths. After a little stay at Strasbourg and a peep at
the famous cathedral, we reached Paris, April 16.
GO
~r
1C
CHAPTER XLII.
THE WILLOAVS.
THE three houses built and occupied by Governor
Smyth were significant of his rising fortunes, as well as
of the growth of the city of Manchester. First, near
the corner of Central and Chestnut streets, when the
original pines were still standing on Merriraack (now
Monument) Square, a pleasant and convenient two-story
cottage was erected in 1844, and when that was outgrown
a more pretentious residence arose on the corner of
Bridge and Chestnut streets, then the extreme northern
limit of building in the city. In 1866 the Governor
bought of the Amoskeag Company the estate comprising
about ten acres where he now resides, and which is
known as " The Willows," the locality having many speci-
mens of that graceful tree. There were also a few elms
and an occasional group of white birches. The land was
undulating, and consisted of one prominent ridge over-
looking river and falls, east of which crept a valley, and
still farther east arose to the level of Elm street. With
the exceptions named the plot was a barren sand bank,
relieved by an unsightly swamp.
In earlier days it was the site of an Indian encamp-
ment, probably a lodge of the great Passeconoway him-
self, and so one governor succeeds another on the same
historic spot. From time to time spear and arrow-heads,
with many implements fashioned by the long-lost race,
have been found on the grounds. This also was once a
part of the farm of General John Stark.
The new owner immediately began improvements,
meantime perfecting his plans and making arrangements
29
450 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
for building a house. Gridley J. F. Bryant, Esq., of Bos-
ton, was employed as architect, and he also gave the aid
of his experience and fine taste in so placing trees, paths,
and shrubbery as to tell most effectively on the general
design. A hedge of spruce was set about the entire lot,
and after several years of labor in ditching, draining,
grading, and top-dressing, the land assumed a new aspect.
The sandy hill became a field of living green, the waters
of the swamp were collected into a pond, the underlying
ledge which cropped out here and there was fringed with
creeping vines and made to do duty in adding grace to
the scenery, and everywhere was seen harmonious growth.
The lumber was ordered for building, and much of the
interior finish the maple, butternut, cherry, and birch
was cut on ancestral lands in Candia. The foundation
was put in and left to settle for a year before beginning
the superstructure. The main house, fronting south, is
fifty feet square, with L thirty by twenty-one. A tower
rises from the intersection eighty feet in height, sur-
mounted by a lofty flag-staff. The view from the lookout
on this tower is unsurpassed in many respects by any of
the local scenery, and combines in a pleasing degree the
natural wildness of mountain, forest, and stream, with
the busy charm of human industry. The residence is
thoroughly finished from basement to attic, water, hot
and cold, is carried to every room in brass pipes tin-lined,
and the heating is by means of hot water. The furnace,
wood and coal room, milk room, laundry, and vegetable
room are located in the basement. There is also a sum-
mer kitchen, which communicates by an elevator with
that upon the floor above.
The main entrance to the house is through a spacious
and lofty porte cochere, the roof of which is supported by
twelve Doric columns, and which leads to a broad hall
intersecting the house from south to north. On the left
as we go in, parlor and library communicate with each
THE WILLOWS. 451
other by broad double doors on either side the chimney.
The parlor is a large and airy apartment, commanding an
extended view of the falls, Rock Rimmon, the Unca-
noonucs, the Francestown mountains, the long sweep of
the cotton-mills, the railroad, and bridges. Midway the
main hall a section extends to the northern entrance, with
dining-room, kitchen, and pantries on the left, and the
sitting-room on the right.
The entire first story is finished in black-walnut, with
dado three feet high in heavy paneling. The rooms are
lofty, and the frescoing light and graceful in design. On
the second floor are six sleeping apartments, four with
bath-rooms attached, and all provided with hot and cold
water. These rooms are known as the cherry, maple,
butternut, oak, and birch, according to the finish, and the
frescoing is done in fruit or foliage to correspond. In
the third story are several sleeping-rooms finished in pine,
the natural color of the wood. West of the upper hall is
the museum and picture gallery. Here is a fine collec-
tion of Indian relics, mostly found about the grounds,
and many half-length life-size crayon portraits of early
friends of Governor Smyth, done by Mr. J. Bailey Moore.
Among other matters of interest one may see an arched
window rescued from the burning ruins of the Congrega-
tional church in Candia in 1848, and the sign of the
Black Horse Inn kept in Brentwood by Mr. Smyth's
great-grandfather in 1736. There is also a large collec-
tion of papers and pamphlets which have been carefully
saved, the accumulation of years. Specimens of Xile
pottery, hand-wrought brass lamp-holders from Algiers,
and various quaint articles, complete the catalogue.
The entrance hall below contains four meritorious
pieces of marble statuary from Italy, representing the
four seasons, an ancient Dutch timepiece one hundred
and fifty years old, with Chipendale case, and a musical
attachment of bells plavina; a different tune at each half
i. V O
452 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
hour, showing days of the week, month, and changes of
the moon. Here are also a variety of rare things from
abroad, a magnificent costume of a sheik, arms, me-
mentos and souvenirs of travel.
In the parlor is a bust of Mrs. Smyth, by Tadolini,
an Italian sculptor at Rome in 1878, and in the library
that of Governor Smyth, by the same artist. The library
is that of an active, stirring man of affairs, who reads
men and things rather than books, and so deals largely
with politics, state history, agriculture, and the matters
of to-day, rather than classic essays or scholarly specula-
tions. Photographs, guide-books, prints, maps, and paint-
ings illustrative of foreign life abound, and also stones,
fragments, pottery, curious bits of glass, of marble, or of
cement, from the most famous resorts of the Old World,
add to the interest of the rooms, and enable one better to
follow the story of their owner's travels, which he relates
at times in a most entertaining manner.
The grounds are laid out with an eye to symmetry and
beauty. Deciduous and evergreen trees of most kinds
known to this latitude are so set as not to interfere with,
but rather to enhance, the view in different directions.
Many pieces of classic and modern statuary are placed in
favorable situations, fountains play to cool the summer
air, and rustic seats invite one to rest under wide-spread-
ing willows.
The fish-pond, on whose surface floats a real Indian
canoe, where the water-lilies bloom in their season, is
stocked with native fish and German carp. A windmill,
the tower of which is eighty feet high, supplies water for
irrigating purposes, while the evergreen hedge surround-
ing the lot is one of the best in the State. A fine pear
orchard, containing most of the approved varieties com-
mended by the American Pomological Society, of which
the owner is a distinguished and active member, and a
productive vegetable garden, are located in convenient
THE WILLOWS. 453
nearness to the house. The stable, about one hundred
feet northeast, has ample accommodations for the Gov-
ernor's horses and Jersey cows. At the Salmon-street
entrance is a convenient and tasty lodge, designed for
the use of the farmer and man of all work who attends
to the somewhat numerous matters the Governor is apt
to provide for him.
Salmon street, which bounds the estate on the south,
is fitly named, as a reminder of the once famous fishing-
place at Amoskeag Falls, from which it leads, and also as
a token of the interest Governor Smyth had in restocking
these waters with the salmon. It is true that the various
fishways built at Lowell, and Lawrence, and Manchester,
by the manufacturing companies under the laws of Mas-
sachusetts, have not accomplished the purpose for which
they were designed, but every year, in the season, salmon
of large size are seen at the falls. The grounds are usu-
ally open to the public, and people frequently drive or
leisurely walk over the concrete paths, observing what-
ever is to be seen. Fronting "The Willows" on Elm
street are some of the finest residences in the city, whose
green lawns and varied styles of architecture add much
to the charm of the place.
With this chapter these sketches are for the present
brought to a conclusion. They have been written not
for publication, but for private circulation among those
friends who are familiar with the times and affairs dis-
cussed, and to preserve in the order of their occurrence
the memory of events which took place during the most
stormy period of our nation's existence, events in which
Governor Smyth has borne an honorable and conspicuous
part. It is needless to say to any one who knows him
that he is still a lover of his native State, proud to ac-
knowledge his indebtedness to her citizens for their stead-
fast support, and that he believes the facilities she offers
to honesty, intelligence, and enterprise are second in
454 LIFE OF FREDERICK SMYTH.
point of real value to those of no other State in the
Union.
Since this volume was printed, one of its compilers,
the Hon. Ben : Perley Poore, has been gathered to his
fathers. A life-long and highly valued friend of Gov-
ernor Smyth, when he learned that this sketch was in
preparation he very kindly offered to add some things
within his personal knowledge in respect to state and na-
tional agricultural affairs, and also as to the Governor's
services to the State during the war, in the government
departments at Washington.
N D EX.
PAGE
Address, agricultural 175
Athens Club 330
dedication of Soldiers' Monument 307
Governor's inaugural 143-212
Mayor's inaugural 22, 36, 52, 123
valedictory 290
Agricultural Societies:
of Great Britain 114
New Hampshire 92
United States, Chicago 97
Cincinnati 102
Louisville 94
Richmond 95
Washington 102
Amoskeag annexed 51
Veterans at Newburyport 266
Ancestry 1
Ando ver, Mass 12
Andrew, John A 174-191
Angell, Maj. Jesse 119
Atheneum, Manchester 17-51
Ayer, Richard H 35
Bakersville 254
Bank of England 113
Banks, Gen. N. P 366
Banquet of New England Society 201
Eagle Hotel, Concord 248
honor of M. P. Wilder 361
Barring (M. P.), reception by 109
Bouton, Dr. Nathaniel 250
Butler, Gen. 13. F 251-272
Elaine, James G., reception of 365
Candia, characteristics of 9
Chase. Chief -Justice 249-305
Pike 11
City clerk 21
Club 98
Clay, Henry 35
Claremont Railroad extension 205
456 INDEX.
Commissioner honorary at Paris 316
of the State at London 104
to build Reform School 67
Concord Railroad, controversy with 35
director of '. 364
president 364
Continental tour with C. L. Flint 118
Corporator of national asylums 195
Correspondence, foreign 104-316
Cross, Hon. David 267-305
Dame, Miss Harriet M 203
Daniels, D. J 137
Dartmouth College 172-260-261
Dayton, Ohio 270
Delmonico, New England dinner 201
Dover, militia encampment 268
Discussion on Governor's expenses 301
Early life 1-14
Election as city clerk 21
Governor 139
Mayor 22-122
Elegy, Gray's scene of Ill
English opinion on the war 108
Exposition, International, London 104
Paris 316
Fairs, County, at Milford 193
Mechanics', at Lowell, Mass 192
New Hampshire, at Dover 306
United States Agricultural Society 93-96-102
Sanitary 120
Fete, Marquis of Salisbury, England 112
Finances, state 144
Fishery laws 150-257
Flint, C. L 118
French, Hon. E. B 252
Garfield Memorial Address 358
Gettysburg 120
Governor's inauguration 143
messages 143-212
valedictory 290
Gunckle, General 273
Harriman, Walter 137
Head, General 267
Healey, Capt. Cornelius 208
Illness and death of Mrs. Smyth 367
Indian Hill Farm... ... 267
INDEX. 457
Journeys abroad 316
Mrs. Smyth's note-book 368
King, Capt. D. W 196
Library, Free Public '. 50-59
Lincoln, Abraham 98
Letters, case of Thomas O'Brien 251
soldiers' bounties 252
to Colonel Savage, of Alton 255
case of Captain Healey 208
to D. W. King 196
declining third term as Governor 276
from the East 316-337
to Miss Clara Glidden 288
Surgeon-General Barnes 170
Secretary Seward 208
Stanton 168
London International Exhibition of 1862 104
Loring, Hon. George B 175
Lowell, Mass., employment at 10
Mechamics'-Fair 192
Manager of Soldiers' Homes 269
Manchester, business in 16
first visit to 13
Mayor of 22, 122
Marriage 18
Mechi Alderman Tiptree Farm 115
Melvin, Thomas J 11
Mexico, tour in 352
Milford, speech at 193
Messages, Governor's 143-212
Mayor's 22, 36, 52, 123
Militia encampments 264-268
National Soldiers' Homes 269
Nomination as Governor 136
Newburyport, visit to 266
New Orleans 352
Newport Railroad extension 205
O'Brien, Thomas 251
Oration to the unknown dead 345
Phillips Antlover Academy 12
Piscataquog annexed 51
Pomological Society 96
Positions of trust ;U3
Proclamations, Fast 279
Thanksgiving 167
458 INDEX.
Provincial Records 250
Press Association 358
Portsmouth, July 4 256
Reception of Chief-Justice Chase 305
at Dover 26 8
of General Sherman 259
of James G. Blaine 365
Reform School 67
Representative from Ward 3 95
Republican Convention 96
Return of Volunteers 166
Russell, Rev. C. P 9
Sanitary Commission 120
Savage, Col. George 255
School children visit Concord 283
Serenade, Washington, D. C 199
Seward, William H 208
Sherman, General 259
Speeches, County Fair at Milford 193
death of Garfield 358
Dayton, Ohio 270
dedication Soldiers' Monument 307
election as Governor 206
gubernatorial convention 96
Mechanics' Fair, Lowell 192
Festival at Manchester 34
New England dinner 201
New Hampshire Militia 268
Newport Railroad extension 205
on nominations 138, 140, 210
pardon of convict 281
Portsmouth, July 4 256
presentation to Major Angell 119
Dr. C. W. Wallace 139
Redmond (M. P.), at Smyth's Hall 363
return of Second Regiment 203
school children 284
temperance convention 262
Veterans' dinner 277
Wilder banquet 361
Stearns, Onslow 137
Teaching school 11
Temperance 262
Thanksgiving Proclamation 197
Tiptree Farm, England 115
Trees set on commons and streets 34
Treasurer 92
INDEX. 459
Valedictory address 290
Visit to the old homestead 357
Wallace, Dr. C. W 138
Wallis, George, England 117
War correspondence 168
Webster, Daniel 35-93
Hospital 170
Wheat, Thomas, M. D 10
Whittier, John G 267
Willows, The 449
Wilderness, Battle of 121
Wilder, M. P 361
Windsor Castle... Ill
Portrait of Governor Smyth Frontispiece.
Portrait of Mrs. Smyth op, page 368
Birthplace " 4
Old schoolhouse " 6
First residence in Manchester " 18
Residence on Bridge street " 20
Residence at " The Willows " " 448
Residence at "The Willows," view from Elm street " 450
Residence at " The Willows," view from Salmon street " 454
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY
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This book is DUE on the last date stamped below.
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?39_ Poore -
~S5P? Sketches of the
life and public
UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY
services of
Frederick Sm^th of
Few Hampshire