363 
 
 C2, 
 
 UC-NRLF 
 
 APPLE GROWING IN 
 CALIFORNIA 
 
 CALIFORNIA STATE P T ING OFFICE 
 
GIFT OF 
 
THE STATE COMMISSION OF HORTICULTURE 
 SACRAMENTO, CALIFORNIA 
 
 Apple Growing in California 
 
 A Practical Treatise Designed to Cover Some of the 
 
 Important Phases of Apple Culture 
 
 Within the State 
 
 By GEO. P. WELDON 
 
 Chief Deputy State Commissioner of Horticulture 
 
 CALIFORNIA 
 
 STATE PRIM i.\<, < n n< K 
 1914 
 
 13683 
 
PRESERVATION 
 COPY ADDED 
 ORIGINAL TO BE 
 RETAINED 
 
 TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. PAGE. 
 STATISTICS 5 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 VARIETIES 14 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 PROPAGATION OF THE APPLE 31 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 SELECTION OF TREES FOR PLANTING 35 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 SOILS AND THEIR PREPARATION FOR PLANTING 38 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 SETTING AND CARING FOR THE YOUNG TRP^KS 44 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 PRUNING 46 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 TOP-WORKING APPLE TREES 60 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 INTERCROPPING 62 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 IRRIGATION, CULTIVATION COVER CROPS AND FERTILIZERS 63 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 THINNING 67 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 INJURY AND PROTECTION OF APPLES FROM FREEZING- _ 70 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 SPRAYING THE APPLE__ 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 INSECT PESTS OF THE APPLE 79 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 DISEASES OF THE APPLE__ 92 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 PICKING, GRADING AND PACKING 97 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 BY-PRODUCTS . 102 
 
 O IT AFTER XVIII. 
 
 PRODUCTION, CONSUMPTION AND RECIPES _ 104 
 
 / . PKAPT.E-R XIX. 
 INSECTICIDES AND FUNGICIDES. _ _ 112 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 The great importance of the apple in our state, the many failures 
 among those who have attempted to grow this fruit, the common opinion 
 that an apple orchard can not be made a paying proposition, and the 
 hopeless neglect and consequent failure to produce what might be 
 beautiful and profitable orchards, together with a dearth of litera- 
 ture on the subject, are some of the things that induced the author to 
 write this little book. It is published with a realization of its incom- 
 pleteness and possible errors, but if it will in a small way, at least, serve 
 as a guide to future profitable apple culture in California, the efforts 
 put forth will in no way be regretted. 
 
 While primarily a treatise on apple culture, several of the chapters 
 are designed to teach lessons that will be valuable in the culture of other 
 fruits: For example, chapters on Pruning, Intercropping and Cover 
 Crops. 
 
 1 wish to express thanks to Dr. A. J. Cook, under whose direction the 
 investigations were conducted, and who has at all times cooperated 
 with me in the work. His valuable assistance in reading the manu- 
 script is appreciated. 
 
 Thanks are also due Prof. A. V. Stubenrauch, Pomologist of the State 
 I.'niversity at Berkeley, Mr. W. H. Volck, County Horticultural Com- 
 missioner of Santa Cruz County and Mr. W. S. Ballard, Pathologist, 
 Fruit-Disease Investigations, United States Department of Agriculture, 
 i-rK-h of whom kindly read parts of my manuscript; also to Mr. E. J. 
 Vosler. Secretary of the State Commission of Horticulture and Mr. H. S. 
 Smith. Superintendent of the State Insectary, for the same courtesy. 
 
 For illustrations I am indebted to the State University, Mr. C. B. 
 AYVeks, County Horticultural Commissioner of Tehama County, 
 Mr. O. E. Bremner, County Horticultural Commissioner of Sonoma 
 County, and Mr. J. F. Benton of Arcata. 
 
 GEO. P. WELDOX. 
 
 Sacramento, California, November 5, 1914. 
 
 395001 
 
APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 STATISTICS. 
 
 There is no more cosmopolitan fruit among the long list grown, 
 than the apple. It adapts itself to the cold climates of the north as well 
 as to the more temperate regions farther south. Practically every state 
 in the Union boasts of some places where apples can be produced, and as 
 far north on the continent as British Columbia we lind them doing 
 remarkably well. The climate and soil in many parts of California are 
 admirably suited to the Crowing of this fruit. Prof. E. J. "Wiekson, in 
 his * ( 'alifomia Fruits, " divides the state into five regions, viz: northern 
 const region, central coast region, interior valleys and foothills, moun- 
 tain valleys and plateaus, and southern California, and gives a long 
 list of varieties that are adapted to the diversified conditions of these 
 regions. The central coast region has so far produced a very great part 
 of the state's output of apples, in fact is the only region which has taken 
 u p apple orcharding on a large scale. With splendid transportation 
 facilities and with conditions of soil and climate such that certain 
 varieties have done well, Santa Cruz and Sonoma counties, despite their 
 low elevation and frequent fogs, have produced Yellow Bellflowers, 
 Yellow Xewtowns and Uravensteins. that have made them famous. The 
 northern coast region, including within its borders Mendocino and 
 Ilumboldt counties, is fast coming to the front, and the vast region 
 classified under the name of "mountain valleys and plateaus" contains 
 an abundance of land upon which apples of superior quality can be 
 grown. From an elevation of about 2,000 to 6,000 feet along the Sierra 
 Nevada ran ire may be seen orchards and remnants of orchards in prac- 
 tically all of the counties which extend into these mountains. Fig. 1 
 shows an orchard at an elevation of about 5,000 feet. Transportation 
 facilities are not such at present as to favor these sections, and since the 
 markets are well supplied with shipments from AVatsonvillc and other 
 railroad points, the pioneer orchardists of the mountains have been 
 forced to irive up their practice of hauling the crop a long distance and 
 the orchards no longer paying are neglected. Many splendid trees in 
 some of these old remnants of orchards may still be seen, indicative of 
 the possibilities of apple culture in the mountainous parts of the state. 
 
 The economic value of the apple is probably greater than that of any 
 other fruit. Its cosmopolitan nature has made it a favorite for planting. 
 and its food value is such as to make it prized above all our fruits. The 
 cry of overproduction has rmm in our ears until we wonder sometimes 
 that any one has the nerve to 1:0 into the business. I)e>pite this cry there 
 \8 xiill ;( -(MM! profit to b made from the well cared for on-hard of good 
 varieties, well grown and packed. The apple business of the future 
 must go to those sections where the fruit can be produced best, for small, 
 irnarly apples will not pay for the expense of growing them, while the 
 
APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
APPLK <;RO\VIN<; IN CALIFORNIA. 7 
 
 finer grades will command a handsome price. Undesirable varieties 
 in each locality must be weeded out, either by their removal entirely or 
 by grafting them over to desirable varieties. The orchard containing as 
 many varieties as there are trees must give way to one of only a few 
 of the best. Specialization is the keynote to success in the apple business, 
 as elsewhere, and only the sections which unite in the growing of a few 
 well adapted varieties can hope to gain a reputation for their product 
 and the market which as a consequence will be created. 
 
 It is a well known fact that the acreage planted to apple trees in 
 recent years lias been very large, and this fact has been a cause for 
 alarm among those already in the business and has discouraged planting 
 among others. One of the chief factors limiting the production of apples 
 
 Fig. 2. Orchard scene near Julian, San Diego County. (Original) 
 
 is frost, and practically every state where they are grown is subject to 
 periodical injury from it. and because the acreage of this fruit is great, 
 it does not necessarily follow that the crop will be great every season, 
 and prices low as a consequence. This one factor, frost, has driven many 
 a man in the apple business to the "wall," and no doubt will continue 
 to drive others, for planting in frost-subjected areas, because of an occa- 
 sional good crop, will never entirely cease. California can boast of 
 - that are as free from killing spring frosts as any that may be 
 found, and one who is growing fruit of any kind may feel reasonably 
 NII re of a fairly good crop annually. This assurance of an annual crop 
 in many parts of California is not possessed by states less fortunately 
 situated, and is a great point in her favor. 
 
8 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 At the present time the apple business is somewhat discouraging, but 
 there is no reason to doubt that the time will come when it will be good 
 again. Periods of low prices always have a tendency to weed out many 
 unprofitable orchards, thus decreasing the acreage to the decided advan- 
 tage of those that are properly cared for or more favorably situated. 
 
 In the annual reports received from the county horticultural com- 
 missioners for the past year, the bearing and non-bearing acreage of 
 apples in the various counties where these officials are at work, was 
 given. A table, which follows, has been compiled, showing the counties 
 from which these reports came, and the number of acres in each case. 
 
 TABLE GIVING ACREAGE OF APPLES. 
 
 County 
 
 Bearing 
 
 Non- bearing 
 
 Alameda --- 
 
 136 
 
 100 
 
 Butte -- . . . 
 
 . .-500 
 
 400 
 
 Contra Costa . - 
 
 _. _ . 160 
 
 80 
 
 El Dorado . .'; _ , 
 
 350 
 
 200 
 
 Glenn _.. _ _ 
 
 78 
 
 140 
 
 Humboldt 
 
 1,100 
 
 
 Inyo - ._-__. -- 
 
 1,000 
 
 1,100 
 
 Kern _ ._ 
 
 . 100 
 
 1,857 
 
 Lake 
 
 135 
 
 82 
 
 Los Angeles 
 
 1,400 
 
 800 
 
 Madera 
 
 203 
 
 70 
 
 Mendocino .. 
 
 !*4iS 
 
 180 
 
 Merced 
 
 80 
 
 40 
 
 Modoc 
 
 2li5 
 
 335 
 
 Monterey 
 
 4,500 
 
 000 
 
 Nevada 
 
 1,500 
 
 20Q 
 
 Placer 
 
 450 
 
 
 Riverside . 
 
 . 498 
 
 2,419 
 
 Sacramento 
 
 344 
 
 "><) 
 
 San Benito 
 
 325 
 
 150 
 
 San Bernardino . 
 
 1 ,024 
 
 10,181 
 
 San Diego .. 
 
 1,110 
 
 271 
 
 Santa Barbara -- -_ __ 
 
 400 
 
 150 
 
 Santa Clara 
 
 430 
 
 624 
 
 Santa Cruz _. _. .__ 
 
 15,000 
 
 1,500 
 
 Shasta 
 
 300 
 
 140 
 
 Siskiyou -- 
 
 ; 800 
 
 1,250 
 
 Sonoma - 
 
 6,988 
 
 5,167 
 
 Stanislaus .. 
 
 113 
 
 20 
 
 Sutter - 
 
 200 
 
 50 
 
 Tehama _. 
 
 _ _ 500 
 
 
 Tulare 
 
 . ; 300 
 
 100 
 
 Yolo 
 
 25 
 
 - 
 
 Yuba 
 
 430 
 
 75 
 
 Total 
 
 41,649 
 
 27,891 
 
 During the past summer a list of twelve questions was sent out to one 
 hundred and eighty apple growers in the following counties : But to, 
 El Dorado, Fresno, Humboldt, Madera, Mendocino, Monterey, River- 
 side, San Bernardino, San Diego, Santa Cruz, Sonoma, and Tehama. 
 Sixty-eight out of the total number to whom the list was sent responded, 
 and the answers to these questions contain so much of interest that a 
 table has been prepared, giving them in full just as they were received, 
 with the exception of question No. 12, which is answered under the 
 heading ''Varieties." 
 
APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 9 
 
 Following is the list of questions and the table, in which the numbers 
 in first column correspond to those in list : 
 
 1. How many packed boxes of apples per tree do you consider an 
 average crop for your orchard .' 
 
 2. How many packed boxes per tree do your heaviest bearing trees 
 produce ? 
 
 3. How old are your trees ? 
 
 4. What per cent of your apple crop is packed ? 
 
 5. What per cent is dried ? 
 
 6. What per cent is made into cider, jelly, vinegar, or sold locally '? 
 Indicate which. 
 
 7. What is the average price per pound net to the grower, for dried 
 apples ? 
 
 8. What is the average price per box to the grower for packed 
 appl 
 
 9. What is the approximate elevation of your orchard ? 
 
 10. Do you practice thinning? 
 
 11. Is your orchard irrigated? 
 
10 
 
 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
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AIMM.K GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
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 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
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APPLK <;KO\VI\<; IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
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14 . APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 VARIETIES. 
 
 It is interesting to note in connection with, first choice of varieties 
 in answer to question No. 12 (Name your leading varieties in the order 
 of their importance), that one man, reporting from Butte County, 
 places Black Ben first. Four reporting from El Dorado and no two 
 agreeing gave their first choice as follows: Rome Beauty, Esopus, 
 Baldwin and Button. One man from Fresno reports Fameuse as his 
 first choice. Humboldt County is represented by six growers, giving 
 their first choice as Wagener, King, Esopus, Yellow Bellflower, and two 
 favored Rhode Island Greening. Two reports from Madera County 
 were received, both giving Winter Pearmain as the leading variety for 
 this section. In Mendocino County the following varieties are said to 
 be the best by four who answered the questions : Jonathan, Swaar, King 
 and Baldwin. One report from Monterey County places the Yellow 
 Newt own first. Eleven orchardists reported from Riverside County, 
 giving a leading place to the following: King David, Esopus, Rhode 
 Island Greening, three favored Rome Beauty and five Delicious. Eight 
 orchardists were heard from in San Bernardino County, one giving the 
 Jonathan first place, two Winesap and five Rome Beauty. From San 
 Diego County nine reports came, one giving Jonathan as the leading 
 variety, one Julian Duchess, one Paragon, three Yellow Newtown, and 
 three Yellow Bellflower. As would naturally be expected, only two 
 varieties were given first place by nine of the leading orchardists report- 
 ing from Santa Cruz County; six favored the Yellow Newtown and 
 three the Yellow Bellflower. 
 
 The second county in importance from the standpoint of produc- 
 tion, viz, Sonoma, is represented in these answers by eleven growers, 
 eight of whom favor the Gravenstein, one the Alexander, one the Rome 
 Beauty and one the Yellow Newtown. One report from Tehama County 
 gives the Yellow Newtown first place. 
 
 The following is a complete list of the varieties, arranged alphabet- 
 ically as they were sent in, making a total of forty-eight in all, reported 
 upon. Brief descriptions of twenty of these and illustrations of nine of 
 the best follow, also a supplementary list of varieties not reported upon 
 by growers, but most of which the writer has seen growing somewhere 
 in the state, and which are recommended for trial lay those who are 
 experimenting with varieties. Thus a total of seventy-two varieties. 
 not including the lists of summer varieties and crabs, is given. This 
 contains practically all varieties commonly found, and it is hoped may 
 serve as a guide in the selection of suitable kinds for future planting 
 by some to whom this book may find its way. 
 
<;K<>\VI.\<; IN C.\I.IK >HM.\. 15 
 
 VARIETIES. 
 
 Alexamlrr < Jravi-nsn-in Red I'earuiuin 
 
 Arkansas (Jrimes Red Winter 
 
 Arkansas Klu.-k Ho.. Rhode Island Greening 
 
 P.aldwin Jonathan Rome Beauty 
 
 Banana Julian Duchess Smith 
 
 Ken Davis King Stark 
 
 Black Ben King David Stayman Winesap 
 
 ( 'hampion Lankford Sutton 
 
 Cook's Seedling Lawvt-r Swaar 
 
 Ih-lawan- Rd Mclntosh Twenty Ounce 
 
 Delicious Minkler Wagener. 
 
 K-ipus Missouri Pippin White Pippin 
 
 Fall Pippin Orange Pippin Winesap 
 
 Fallawater Ortley Winter Pearraain 
 
 Fameuse Paragon Yellow Bellflower 
 
 <;i(.ria Mnndi Red Astrachan Yellow Newtown 
 
 SUPPLEMENTARY LIST. 
 
 P.ailey Sweet Rambo 
 
 Bietigheimer Romanite 
 
 Canada Red Sheepnose 
 
 Keswick Codling Sheriff 
 
 Maiden Blush Smokehouse 
 
 Mann Tolman 
 
 MrMahon White Utter 
 
 Northern Spy Walbridge 
 
 Northwestern Wealthy 
 
 Pewaukee Wolf River 
 
 Plum Cider York Imperial 
 Rails 
 
 SUMMER VARIETIES. 
 
 The exceptionally early season for ripening of all fruits in parts of 
 ('alifornia opens up the possibility of growing summer varieties of 
 apples that will reach the markets earlier than those from any other 
 of our apple growing states. With San Francisco, Los Angeles, Sacra- 
 mento and other large cities at hand, there should be a good local 
 demand. For a great many years the Sacramento Valley river bottom 
 below Sacramento has grown Red Astrachans and other summer varie- 
 ties to good advantage. The severe attack of the codling moth has 
 probably done more toward discouraging growers than anything else. 
 As this pest is entirely under the control of those who take the necessary 
 pains to fight it in the proper way as discussed in the chapter on 
 "Insect Pests of the Apple" there is no good reason why it should 
 put any one out of business. With proper attention to pruning, spray- 
 in <r and cutting out blight, along with the proper handling of the soil, 
 much irreater returns should be realized than those of the average 
 <jTower at present. 
 
 The following list of varieties is printed in the order of their ripening. 
 They are all good, each one having some special characteristics to com- 
 mend it : 
 
 Early Harvest Yellow Transparent 
 
 Oldenburg Red Astrachan 
 
 Red June Chenango 
 
16 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 CRAB APPLES. 
 
 Crab apples will always be prized by many for making jelly, pickling 
 and preserving purposes. To those who wish to set out a few trees the 
 following list of varieties is recommended : 
 
 Florence Siberian, Red or Yellow 
 
 Hyslop Transcendent 
 
 Martha Whitney 
 
 ARKANSAS. 1 
 
 The above variety is probably better known under the name of Mam- 
 moth Black Twig, and is grown only to a very limited extent in the 
 state. It is of the Winesap type, probably a seedling from it, but of 
 somewhat inferior quality. The keeping qualities are about the same. 
 Under some conditions it is quite subject to the Baldwin spot disease. 
 
 The trees are very large and thrifty and are inclined to be uncertain 
 bearers. 
 
 ARKANSAS BLACK. 
 
 This variety closely resembles the Winesap and is thought to be a 
 seedling from it. In some parts of the state it is quite a popular 
 variety, especially in southern California. It takes on a very deep red 
 color, which polishes beautifully, making a good showing on the fruit 
 stands, and usually commanding a ready sale. Quality is fair but some- 
 what coarse. Keeping qualities are excellent. 
 
 The trees are thifty growers as a rule, but are inclined to bear lightly 
 in some sections of the country. Whether or not this applies to our 
 California conditions the writer has been unable to determine. 
 
 BALDWIN. 
 
 There are few finer apples than this variety when at its prime. So 
 far it has been grown to a limited extent in the state, being subject to 
 an obscure disease known as Baldwin spot, which very often ruins it 
 for market. In the East it is considered to be one of the standards. In 
 a few favored localities in the mountains of California it has been 
 found doing quite well, and in Sonoma County quite a large acreage 
 has been planted, and with a few of the orchardists it is a popular 
 variety. 
 
 The trees are strong growers. 
 
 BLACK BEN. 
 
 While in times past the old Ben Davis apple has not only been a great 
 producer but a money maker as well, there is little excuse at this time 
 of keen competition among growers of superior varieties for planting 
 it. Its place may be taken by the far superior Black Ben or Gano. 
 While the quality of this apple is little if any better than the first men- 
 tioned, the beautiful color makes it a good seller. It is not good 
 judgment to advertise a fruit because of color not taking into con- 
 sideration the quality yet as long as people prefer a red apple 
 regardless of what is inside the skin, this will be a favorite variety. 
 The keeping qualities are on a par with those of the common Ben Davis. 
 
 Trees are ordinarily healthy and thrifty growers, and are inclined to 
 bear regularly and heavily. If one wants to plant a Ben Davis apple, 
 and still have a variety that sells well, this one should commend itself 
 and should do well in sections where color attains its maximum in 
 varieties. 
 
 'Mammoth Black Twig. 
 
APPLE GROWING IN ( ' \I.IK< >KMA. 
 
 DELICIOUS. 
 
 (Fig. 3.) 
 
 This being one of our newest varieties, has not been tested in the 
 slate sufficiently to determine its true value. It is, however, quite prom- 
 ising in certain parts of the foothills and mountainous sections of 
 California. The quality is of the best and there are few 
 
 Fig. 3. The Delicious. (Original) 
 
 apples more juicy and pleasant to the taste than this one, when in its 
 prime. The shape is very irregular, making it a somewhat difficult 
 variety to pack. The keeping qualities are good. 
 
 AVIu'iv this variety has been observed in the state, trees have done 
 
 well, and have come into bearing quite early. Whether or not it will 
 
 sti-ady bearer remains to be seen. Indications at present are that 
 
 it will l)e one of our best varieties in certain sections. Figure 4 shows 
 
 a fine tree of this variety in the Frank Femmons orchard near Oakhurst. 
 
 2 13683 
 
Fig. 4. A heavily loaded tree of the Delicious variety near Oakhurst, Madera 
 
 County. (Original) 
 
 f- 5. The Gravonstfin. (Original) 
 
APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 19 
 
 GRAVENSTEIN. 
 
 This very popular fall variety has been grown extensively only in 
 the Sebastopol section of Sonoma County and has there reached its 
 greatest perfection. It has been found doing well in many parts of the 
 state. The Gravenstein is a favorite for general use during its season. 
 When well colored it is golden yellow, beautifully streaked with red. 
 The stem is very short and there is sometimes considerable .trouble 
 xprrienced with the dropping of the fruit before it is ripe. The loss 
 from dropping may be greatly lessened by careful thinning. It may 
 
 Fig. 6. The Grimes. (Original) 
 
 be kept in cold storage for two or three months, but is inclined to go 
 down rapidly upon being removed. 
 
 In California the trees are usually thrifty and inclined to make quite 
 a strong, heavy growth. 
 
 The great success that has come to the apple growers of Sonoma 
 County in growing this variety has made it standard for that section, 
 and has illustrated the value of specializing in the apple business. 
 
 GRIMES. 2 
 
 During the investigations preparatory to the publication of this work, 
 the above apple has not been commonly found growing in the state, 
 
 'Grimes Golden Pippin. 
 
20 
 
 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 and is deserving of trial by those who an. 1 experimenting with varieties, 
 as it is a showy apple of excellent quality, being popular both for eating 
 and cooking purposes. Like most other apples of a light color it is 
 somewhat delicate and must be handled with care. Keeping qualities 
 are not very good, but no doubt vary much with apples from different 
 localities. 
 
 The trees are fairly thrifty when grown on soil suited to them. 
 
 Fig. 7. The Jonathan. (Original) 
 
 Only an occasional one has been observed in this state, but on these some 
 very fine specimens were growing. It is recommended for trial in the 
 mountain sections, especially of soiithern California. 
 
 JONATHAN. 
 
 (Fig. 7.) 
 
 This excellent variety has not been grown extensively in the state, 
 but there are places in Riverside, San Bernardino, San Diego, El Do- 
 rado, Mendocino and Ilumboldt counties, at least, where it has done 
 well. Its beautiful red color, combined with excellent quality, makes it 
 
APPU: <;RO\VIN<; IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 21 
 
 a favorite. When picked before too ripe it is a fairly good keeper,, 
 l)riiiir in its prime during the holidays. In storage it is subject to a 
 condition known as Jonathan spot, and should not be held long after 
 the first of January. 
 
 The tree is inclined to be small under most conditions, and it should 
 not be set except in good and well-adapted soil, and is not recommended 
 for L'vneral planting in the state. Figure 8 is of a five-year-old Jonathan 
 tree^near Beaumont, and Figure 9 of an older tree, well loaded with 
 fruit in San Diego County. In both the orchards when- these pictures 
 were la ken the trees had made a splendid, thrifty growth, and the fruit 
 they produced was of the best. Some splendid, well-colored specimens 
 
 Fijr. s. Fine sperm 
 
 mathan trees near Beaumont, Riverside County. 
 (Original) 
 
 have been received from the J. E. Hassler orchard at Placerville. The 
 excellence that this variety attains in Utah and Colorado, and the 
 highest market prices that are received by growers in these states, make 
 it desirable that it be grown in California only where it will attain some- 
 where near the perfection that it does there. In general it is a fairly 
 irood producer, coming into bearing early and maturing crops with 
 great regularity. 
 
 Trees should be pruned heavily for the first five years, and the 
 irn-atest strength of scaffold branches developed, as they have a tend- 
 n-y to grow slender and willow-like, thus being unable to hold up a 
 y load of fruit to the best advantage. 
 
 KING DAVID. 
 
 This beautifully colored variety is becoming quite popular in some sec- 
 tions of the state, but as yet has not been thoroughly tested out under 
 California conditions. In some of the newer sections of Riverside and 
 
22 
 
 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA, 
 
 San Bernardino counties it is being planted quite extensively. The 
 appearance is strikingly like that of the Jonathan, but the flavor and 
 quality are somewhat inferior. 
 
 It is too soon to predict what the future for this variety will be. So 
 far it has done well from the standpoint of growth of trees and pro- 
 duction of fruit. 
 
 ORTLEY. 
 
 The Ortley or White Bellflower does remarkably well in parts of the 
 foothill region. In Placer and Mariposa counties this variety has 
 
 Fig. 9. Well-loaded Jonathan tree near Julian, San Diego County. (Original) 
 
 attained a high degree of excellence, and apples have been sought after 
 for table use. It is an apple similar to the Yellow Bellflower, but of 
 better quality. Like many of the light skinned varieties it is exceed- 
 ingly^ delicate and susceptible to limb scars and blemishes from other 
 injuries. The season is about with that of the Jonathan and the two 
 varieties together on the table make a veritable bouquet. 
 The trees are normally thrifty and good bearers. 
 
APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 23 
 
 ROME BEAUTY. 
 
 The Rome Beauty is quite a general favorite for planting in certain 
 sections of California, where it is known to do well. When highly 
 colored it is one of our finest appearing apples. Flesh is very firm 
 and of good quality. The keeping qualities are of the best and speci- 
 mens may be held over from one season to another. There are few 
 apples that command a higher price than this one when in its prime. 
 
 The trees are inclined to be somewhat small, and of upright habits 
 
 t 
 
 Kitf. 10. The Rome Beauty. (Original) 
 
 of growth, unless on very favorable soils. They come into bearing 
 early and are usually heavy and consistent producers. Because of a 
 late blooming habit this variety often escapes early spring frosts that 
 mean disaster to those varieties that bloom earlier. For this reason it 
 is an excellent variety to plant in sections where damage frequently 
 takes place from such frosts. Trees are quite susceptible to the attack 
 of woolly aphis, irreen apple aphis and other species which affect 
 apple trees. 
 
24 
 
 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 Some of the finest specimens of this variety that the writer has ever 
 seen came from the Yucaipa section of San Bernardino County. There 
 are several orchards in this section at an elevation of about five thousand 
 feet where Rome Beauties are grown. Mr. Geo. Eowe of Grand Rapids, 
 Michigan, who has been head judge of the California apple show each 
 season since its organization, has seen specimens of the variety from 
 this section and considers them to be extra fine. Coming from an 
 
 Fig. 11. Young Rome Beauty tree with 
 heavy load of fruit; Yucaipa, San 
 Bernardino County. (Original) 
 
 authority on apples such as he is, this information should mean some- 
 thing to the people of the Yucaipa district. 
 
 Figure 11 is of a young Rome Beauty tree on the E. N. Boyd place 
 near Yucaipa, which illustrates the heavy bearing tendency as well as 
 the young age at which they come into bearing. 
 
 No doubt there are other places in the mountain sections, away from 
 the coast especially, where this variety will do well. 
 
APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 25 
 
 RHODE ISLAND GREENING. 
 
 This old New England variety has been found doing well in Humboldt 
 County, and again in the extreme southern part of the state in San 
 Diego County. The quality of this apple is good and it keeps well in 
 storage. 
 
 The trees are strong and vigorous and are seemingly productive where 
 grown in the state. 
 
 ESOPUS. 3 
 
 This excellent apple has not been known to reach the high degree 
 of perfection in California that it does in the Northwest, although it 
 does pretty well in some places. The good keeping qualities and excel- 
 
 esap tree bearing heavily in Tehama County. (Photograph by 
 C. B. Weeks) 
 
 lence in general commend it to a great many people and it finds a 
 ready sale in our markets. 
 
 In California it is generally subject to scab and aphis, the trees them- 
 selves being moderately healthy. There are a few people in the state 
 who will recommend it, and there may be some favorable localities where 
 it will do well. 
 
 STAYMAN WINESAP. 
 
 The Stayman is a seedling of the old Winesap, which attains a greater 
 size, but not quite such a good color. The quality is probably a little 
 inferior to that of its parent. The keeping qualities of the two are 
 about equal, both being in season about January first and lasting 
 
 *Spitzenberg. 
 
26 
 
 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 through the winter. At present it is not grown extensively, but is a 
 very promising variety, especially in the apple sections of San Bernar- 
 dino, Tehama and Kiverside counties. Figure 12 shows a tree in Tehama 
 County bearing heavily. 
 
 The* trees are usually as thrifty as the regular Winesap. It has been 
 rated as a light bearer, but may not be under California conditions. 
 
 WAGENER. 
 
 Some splendid apples of this variety have been seen in Humboldt 
 Countv, and the northern counties to the south, viz : Mendocino, Sonoma 
 
 Fig. 13. -The Winter Pearmain. (Original) 
 
 and Napa, also seem to be well adapted to its growth and development. 
 At its best it is a nicely colored apple of excellent quality, and sells for 
 a good price. It is rather early and does not keep well, but should 
 be consumed before the holidays. 
 
 The trees are small but heavy bearers. This variety, probably more 
 than any other, has been used as a filler in orchards of other varieties. 
 It is quite subject to the blight in some localities, and is not considered 
 to be a long lived tree. 
 
APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 27 
 
 WINTER PEARMAIN. 
 
 (Fig. 13.) 
 
 Among the list of green colored varieties there are few of better 
 quality than the Winter Pearmain. This variety has been quite ex- 
 tensively planted in the past in California and there are few of the 
 older orchards where it can not be found. It is a good keeper and during 
 the holiday season is in its prime, though it keeps well for a long time 
 afterward. On some of the lighter soils quite a little color is produced, 
 
 Fig. 14. The Winesap. (Original) 
 
 thus adding to its attractiveness and selling qualities. This apple, if it 
 had a red skin, would be much more popular. 
 
 The trees are exceedingly productive in this state, in some places 
 bearing crops almost annually. If the soil is at all suitable good growth 
 takes place, and if pruning and thinning are practiced consistently good 
 fruit of uniform size and quality can be expected. 
 
 There are few places where the writer has been that this variety has 
 not been found doing well. In the mountainous sections of Madera, San 
 Bernardino and San Diego counties some excellent specimens have been 
 seen, and in the Pajaro and Santa Clara valleys it has been grown, not 
 extensively, but always with uniformly good results. Consequently it is 
 recommended for use ir practically all the apple growing sections. 
 
28 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 WINESAP. 
 
 (Fig. 14.) 
 
 One of our most cosmopolitan, as well as generally popular varieties 
 of apple, is the Winesap. While it is inclined to be small the quality is 
 good, the red color such as to attract attention, and the keeping qualities 
 of the best. It is an excellent winter variety for general use, and when 
 at its best commands a high price. There are few of the older orchards 
 in California where this variety is not found, and it has been quite 
 extensively planted in the foothills sections. Some remarkably fine 
 specimens have been taken in the Sierra Nevada mountains at an eleva- 
 tion of about five thousand feet. 
 
 The trees are inclined to grow bushy and ordinarily require heavy 
 pruning. This applies to old as well as young trees. Not only is heavy 
 pruning necessary to keep the trees in good shape, but also to induce the 
 apples to attain a good size. The tendency is always for them to be small 
 on older trees, unless pruning is properly done. 
 
 In the coast counties at low elevations this variety is not commonly 
 planted, and is only recommended for the interior foothills and mountain 
 sections. 
 
 BANANA. 4 
 
 The beautiful blush of this variety has made it a favorite for planting 
 in some sections. Like the Ortley and Grimes it is rather delicate 
 and must be handled with great care in picking and packing. It usually 
 does best at rather high altitudes, although some beautiful specimens 
 which were grown in Santa Cruz County were exhibited at the recent 
 California Apple Show. Some fine fruit is produced in Modoc County. 
 
 While a fairly good keeper ordinarily, it is at its best rather early in 
 the season. 
 
 The trees are vigorous when young. -at least, but are inclined to be 
 rather stunted later, unless grown under the most favorable conditions. 
 
 YELLOW BELLFLOWER. 
 
 (Fig. 15.) 
 
 Probably nowhere else has the above variety been grown so extensively 
 and reached such perfection as in the Pajaro Valley of this state, or what 
 is better known as the Watsonville section, which includes parts of Santa 
 Cruz and Monterey counties. The difficulty experienced in getting red 
 varieties to color well in this section is no doubt responsible for the 
 extensive planting to this variety and also the commonly grown Yellow 
 NVwtown, another light colored apple. When grown on favorable soil 
 and when not picked too early it develops a blush that makes it very 
 attractive. It keeps well until after the holidays and is a general 
 favorite in California for the early market. 
 
 The trees grow very large and sturdy and in California bear quite 
 regularly and their size after they reach the age of fifteen years or more, 
 makes it possible for them to bear some very larue crops. In most parts 
 of the country it is rated as a light bearer. 
 
 'Winter Jianana. 
 
APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 29 
 
 This variety is recommended for planting in most of the apple 
 'my sections of the state, as it may be found doing well at high elevations, 
 ,is \\.-ll as places near sea level- Because of the fact that Watsonville 
 has made a specialty of this variety it would probably not be good busi- 
 judgment for other sections to plant it extensively, but it would be 
 I letter for them to choose some variety known to do well under their 
 conditions. 
 
 Fig. 15. The Yellow Bellflower. (Original) 
 
 YELLOW NEWTOWN. 
 (Fig. 16.) 
 
 Like the Yellow Bellrtower this variety is exceptionally well adapted 
 to the conditions of soil and climate of the Pajaro Valley, and there 
 iva.-hes a high degree of perfection. These two varieties constitute by 
 i'ar the greater part of the acreage (about eighty per cent) planted to 
 apples in that section. The Yellow NVwtown ripens a little later than 
 the Yellow Bellflower, is firmer and a better keeper. It is quite a 
 
30 
 
 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 popular variety for the export trade as well as for general use. In 
 California it is quite subject to mildew and scab and these diseases often 
 play havoc with the trees and fruit where nothing is done to control 
 them. Bearing begins reasonably early and good crops are the rule 
 in the state. 
 
 The trees are quite large and thrifty but do not usually attain the 
 size of the Yellow Bellflower. 
 
 There are few localities where this variety does not do well, and like 
 the Yellow Bellflower it is recommended for planting in all apple sec- 
 
 Fig. 16. The Yellow Newtown. (Original) 
 
 tions of the state where a good light colored apple is desired. In 
 Humboldt and Lassen counties in the north and in San Diego, Riverside 
 and San Bernardino counties in the south fine specimens have been 
 collected. 
 
 The trees will stand very heavy pruning, which becomes a necessity 
 in sections where mildew is bad, as one of the best ways to control this 
 disease is by pruning out infested twigs as they appear. 
 
AI'IM.K (JUoWINt; IX CALIFORNIA. 31 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 PROPAGATION OF THE APPLE. 
 
 The work of propagating apple trees is usually left to the nursery- 
 nwn. although there is no good reason why the person who is contem- 
 plating tin' setting out of an orchard should not propagate his own trees. 
 In the past there has been frequent and serious difficulty experienced 
 by the purchaser of nursery trees because of not receiving varieties 
 ordered. The nurserymen of today, as a whole, exercise the greatest 
 an- toward sending out trees true to name, so the one-time serious 
 objection to buying trees from them has been largely removed. It is 
 true, however, that many nurserymen are not careful enough in the 
 selection of the stock used for budding or grafting purposes, and as a 
 consequence trees may not be inherently strong. The future will no 
 doubt demand that more care be exercised to secure buds or grafts from 
 trees that have a record of good crop production to transmit, or at 
 least which they will surely have a tendency to transmit to trees 
 developed from them. 
 
 SEEDLINGS. 
 
 It is known by practically every one that the apple, when grown from 
 seed, does not come true to the variety. That is, if a thousand trees were 
 grown from seeds taken from a single Jonathan apple tree there w r ould 
 probably be none of them that would possess many of the character- 
 istii-s of the true Jonathan. This fact necessitates the propagation of 
 the apple by budding or grafting of fixed varieties into seedlings grown 
 for the purpose. The first step, then, in developing trees for an orchard 
 is the growing of seedlings. 
 
 AVickson recommends the following method of starting apple and pear 
 trees from seed: 
 
 For a small lot of apple and pear trees the seed can be best sown in boxes. 
 Select plump pips and keep in moist snnd from the time they are taken from the 
 fruit until sowing. Fill the boxes, which should be three or four inches deep, with 
 -ood garden mold, cover tin- s.-.-d about half an inch, and then cover the soil lightly 
 with chaff or tine straw to pivvent. the surface from drying out. Be sure that the 
 boxes have crocks or holes in the bottom for drainage, and the whole is kept moist, 
 but not wet. When the seedlings have grown to the height of three inches they 
 can he set out in the nursery rows, as one would set out cabbage plants. 
 
 After these seedling trees have attained sufficient growth they may be 
 budded to whatever varieties are desired. 
 
 Seeds for use in growing trees should be selected from good stock, if 
 possible. Small, shrunken seed from poor apples is no more desirable 
 than poor stoek for budding purposes, as the thrift mess of the seedling 
 tree will very largely determine the development and growth of the bud 
 or graft that is inserted into it. Seeds are usually obtained from the 
 pomace of cider mills. As such seeds from our American mills ordi- 
 narily possess nothing of uniformity in their makeup, a good stand of 
 thrifty seedlings can scarcely be expected when grown from them. The 
 !>est seedling are those grown from the wild crabs of France, and most 
 
32 
 
 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 of our nurserymen make a practice of buying either seedlings or seed 
 from this French stock, which appears to have little value except for 
 cider and seeds. 
 
 BUDDING. 
 
 The budded apple tree is now generally preferred to the root grafted 
 tree. The operation of budding is really more simple than grafting, 
 the union of bud with stock is usually better than in the case of the 
 graft, and the trees are believed to be less liable to attack by crown gall. 
 For these as well as other reasons propagation by budding is prac- 
 ticed by most of our best nurserymen. 
 
 Budding can best be done in California in August and September, 
 in which case the inserted bud unites with the seedling stem and remains 
 
 Fig. 17. "Preparing the stock to receive the bud." (After Lelong) 
 
 dormant throughout the winter season, making no growth until the 
 spring. At this time the top of the tree should be removed, cutting just 
 above the bud. The well established root system of the seedling will 
 feed the new bud abundantly, and a rapid growth should take place, 
 developing a satisfactory size of top for planting in one season. 
 
 Bud wood should be selected from bearing trees which have produced 
 satisfactory crops, and only strong, healthy buds should be used. The 
 practice of using bud sticks from young trees which have never borne, 
 because of the convenience of securing them at the time of pruning, 
 cannot result in the development of the best kind of nursery stock. In 
 practically every orchard there are certain trees that have produced 
 big crops of fruit year after year with scarcely a failure, while the 
 average trees have not done nearly so well. Such heavy producing 
 
(JRnNVIN.i IN CAM K< >RN I.\. 
 
 Fig. 18. "Cutting the buds from the scion. 
 (After Lelong) 
 
 Fig. 19. "Showing bud inserted and the wrappings. In some oases a few limbs are 
 left to promote vigor." (After Lelong) 
 
 :: 13683 
 
34 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 trees, other characteristics being desirable also, should be the ones from 
 which buds are taken. The orchardist usually has a better chance to 
 utilize such trees than the nurseryman. The limited number of trees 
 that he would need for his own use often makes it possible for him to 
 secure bud wood from only one tree, which possesses more desirable 
 characteristics of its kind than any other with which he is familiar. The 
 wide breach between the quantity of fruit represented by the maximum 
 producing trees of an orchard and the minimum, or even average pro- 
 ducers, can never be greatly lessened until more careful attention is 
 given to the selection of buds for propagating purposes. 
 
 The budding operation is quite simple and is well illustrated in Figs. 
 17, 18 and 19, after Lelong. These illustrations were made for use in 
 a citrus publication, but as the operation with apples is similar, they 
 serve the purpose in this book equally as well. 
 
 In the nursery an expert budder merely inserts the buds, the tying 
 being done by some one else who immediately follows him. Either 
 cotton twine or fibre from palm leaves, known as raffia, is used for 
 holding the buds in place. As much care, if not more, is necessary in 
 the tying of the bud as in placing it beneath the bark. The tying should 
 be tightly done, thus binding the bud firmly to the stem and greatly 
 facilitating its starting. 
 
 ROOT-GRAFTING. 
 
 This operation is accomplished by the use of seedling roots, whole or 
 in part, to which bud wood of the desired variety is united. In the past 
 this has been a very popular method of propagating nursery apple trees, 
 but has been very largely superseded by budding, for reasons already 
 given. Such grafts are usually made during the dormant season, and 
 kept in wet sand or other suitable material until setting time in the 
 spring. 
 
APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 35 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 SELECTION OF TREES FOR PLANTING. 
 
 Which varieties are selected should depend, first, upon their adap- 
 at ion to the conditions existing where they are to be planted, and, 
 secondly, upon whether they are to be used for commercial purposes or 
 for a home orchard. If the orchard is planted for commercial reasons 
 and that is really all that need concern us in this article only a very 
 1V\\ varieties should be secured. What these shall be should be deter- 
 mined by careful observations of profitable trees in nearby orchards 
 in a section, if older orchards can be found where information is easily 
 obtainable; if not, similar conditions elsewhere may serve as a guide, 
 but in this case the value of whatever varieties are planted will have 
 to be largely determined by experiment. Every older apple section 
 has passed through this experimental period, and, as a consequence, we 
 find in our state many old orchards of a miscellaneous lot of varieties, 
 some good and some bad. Such orchards very often do not have enough 
 good trees in them to justify their existence on the ground they occupy. 
 It is always a good plan to go slow with the testing out of new varieties. 
 The nursery agent who understands his business as a salesman very 
 often has no trouble in persuading people to buy varieties that, while 
 they may be good, have never been tried out in the section, and should 
 not form the major part of a new orchard. To test them out in a small 
 \\ay by planting only a few, until they are known to do well, is a com- 
 mendable thing. Practically every apple section of any consequence in 
 ( 'alifornia has growing in it some well adapted varieties that have pro- 
 
 < In <-ed fine crops year after year. A few of such varieties, preferably 
 not more than three, should be selected by the prospective grower. Suc- 
 
 \vill come to a section when it can produce, in quantities, some 
 variety or some few varieties of prime fruit better than any other sec- 
 i inn can produce them. An illustration of this may be found in the fine 
 
 < iravi-nsteins of the Sebastopol section of Sonoma County, or the Yellow 
 Bellflowers or Yellow Xewtowns of the Watsonville section of Santa 
 ( 'ruz County. With a miscellaneous lot of varieties, and no great quan- 
 tity of any one, these famous apple regions would never have gained 
 their reputation. In the mountainous parts of the state, especially that 
 port ion occupied by the Sierra Nevada range, may be found a great 
 many other equally good varieties, such as Jonathan, Rome Beauty, 
 Esopus, Winesap, Delicious, Winter Pearmain, Baldwin, Northern Spy, 
 Maiden Blush and Ortley, any one of which, if grown extensively and 
 handled well, should make a reputation for its section, as the previously 
 mentioned varieties have done for Sebastopol and Watsonville. 
 
 Some varieties are more or less self-sterile, and unless interplanted 
 with other varieties as pollinizers they may fail to produce well, if at all. 
 With the limited amount of scientifically accurate work that has been 
 done along this line, it is impossible to say just which varieties are self- 
 fertile and will do well when planted alone. It is safe to say that large 
 blocks of any variety should not be planted, for even though they may 
 be self-fertile the effect of cross-pollination would undoubtedly be good. 
 
APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 The following table, prepared and published by Frederick Maskew, 5 
 shows the wide variation in time of blooming of a number of different 
 varieties, something which should be taken into consideration when 
 selecting two or more with the idea of getting the best results in cross- 
 pollination. 
 
 First bloom 
 
 Full bloom 
 
 Winter Pearmain April llth 
 
 Red Astrachan - April 17th 
 
 Yellow Bellflower April 20th 
 
 Fall Pippin April 20th 
 
 Rhode Island Greening April 20th 
 
 Kentucky Red Streak April 20th 
 
 Early Harvest April 21st 
 
 Shockley 1 April 27th 
 
 Fameuse April 27th 
 
 Ben Davis April 29th 
 
 Winesap '. May 5th 
 
 Yellow Transparent May r>th 
 
 None-such May 7th 
 
 Missouri Pippin May 10th 
 
 Alexander _. May 15th 
 
 Smith i May 15th 
 
 Transcendent Crabs May 30th 
 
 Hyslop Crabs - .' i April llth 
 
 Montreal Crabs .. April 16th 
 
 Jenenil fall 
 of bloom 
 
 April 27th 
 
 May 5th 
 
 April 30th 
 
 May 12th 
 
 April 30th 
 
 May Kith 
 
 May 5th 
 
 May 15tli 
 
 May 5th 
 
 May 15th 
 
 May 10th 
 
 May 20th 
 
 May 6th 
 
 May 12th 
 
 May 15th 
 
 May 20th 
 
 May 15th 
 
 May 22d 
 
 May 15th 
 
 May 23<I 
 
 May 17th 
 
 June 1st 
 
 May 16th 
 
 June 1st 
 
 May Kith 
 
 June 1st 
 
 May 20th 
 
 June 1st 
 
 May 25th 
 
 June 1st 
 
 May 25th 
 
 June (itli 
 
 April 7th 
 
 April 22d 
 
 April 22d 
 
 April 30th 
 
 April 24th 
 
 May 7th 
 
 DEMAND THE BEST. 
 
 Having selected suitable varieties only the best trees should be con- 
 sidered for planting. Generally speaking, a cheap tree is a poor tree. In 
 any nursery there are a certain number of trees which have never made a 
 good growth and which on being dug are sorted out as low grade trees 
 and sold for a lower figure than those which have been thrifty. Fre- 
 quently these stunted trees never develop into first-class trees, no matter 
 how great care they may receive. Trees possess an individuality which 
 must be taken into consideration. Often being grown from buds selected 
 miscellaneously, it is to be expected that there will be considerable varia- 
 tion in their size, hardiness and habits of growth. While it may be 
 possible to build a fairly good tree from one which possesses many 
 undesirable characteristics, yet it is much safer to choose the very best, 
 which are likely to be inherently strong, and which will consequently 
 respond readily to good treatment. 
 
 AGE OF TREE TO PLANT. 
 
 All things considered, the best apple tree to buy is the one year old 
 whip. Such a tree has a three year old root system two years' growth 
 as a seedling, and the third as a budded tree. Thus the top is only 
 one year of age when the roots are three, and all the plant food which 
 they take up is utilized in developing this one year old top, which 
 normally makes a thrifty and healthy growth with little or no branching. 
 When set, trees of this kind should throw out branches in abundance 
 throughout the entire length of the trunk, a very desirable thing, as a 
 certain type of head being wanted there will be no trouble in selecting 
 branches to conform to that type, and uniformity may be attained in the 
 
 Apple culture in Los Angeles County. 
 
APPLK GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 37 
 
 heading of an orchard. In the case of the two year old tree it is usually 
 headed a certain height in the nursery row, generally higher than is 
 desirable for the on-hard tree, and uniformity of heading is exceedingly 
 difficult to secure. Sometimes such trees when set are denuded of 
 branches, a mere whip being left, hut when this is done they do not 
 make as much lateral growth as the one year old tree, and it may be 
 very difficult to select branches of the right height and properly spaced 
 for the best type of head. 
 
 FREEDOM FROM DISEASE AND INSECT PESTS. 
 
 Thanks to the very careful inspection work in California, under the 
 direction of the county horticultural commissioners, trees are usually 
 quite free from recognizable diseases and insect pests, when they are set. 
 Trees infested with such diseases as crown gall and such insect pests 
 as woolly aphis are seldom planted. Our inspection system, while 
 far from being perfect, has not only been successful in the detection 
 of disease and insect pests, but it has also resulted in greater care 
 being exercised by the grower of nursery trees, that they be clean. It is 
 not always possible for the inspector to detect crown gall in its first 
 Ktages, but the fact that he is always looking for it and destroying trees 
 upon which it is found, has made the nurseryman realize his obligation 
 relative to this trouble, and as a consequence trees are not grown on land 
 after it becomes thoroughly infected with the disease, as they were at one 
 time. This illustration is one of many which might be given to show 
 that tlie tendency nowadays is toward better stock, as far as insect 
 pests and diseases are concerned. It is of the utmost importance for 
 new sections to plant clean trees, as by so doing many years may elapse 
 before some of the very common troubles will find their way into 
 orchards of the section. 
 
 The very great distribution of the woolly aphis is no doubt due largely 
 to the fact that it has been planted with the nursery tree. With our 
 modern methods of inspection and fumigation the chances of living 
 aphids being on the roots when trees are set may and should be reduced 
 to the minimum. Preventive measures of a simple nature may mean 
 freedom from such pests for years, and consequent healthiness of trees, 
 while inattention to such may mean large sums of money and much time 
 expended in spraying, etc.. with the result of possible control by a 
 diminution of the pest, but never eradication. 
 
 The inspection work to secure this freedom from insects and disease 
 should leceive the encouragement of every one interested in fruit grow- 
 ing, not merely because the inspector may he able to detect pests, but 
 also because of the fact that his efforts will mean a greater effort on 
 the part of the nurseryman, which, after all. means more than the 
 inspection after the stock is grown. There are places, to the writer's 
 knowledge, where inspection work is not done, which have been made 
 dumping grounds by unreliable nurserymen for their undesirable stock. 
 
38 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 SOILS AND THEIR PREPARATION FOR PLANTING. 
 
 Apple trees require good, deep, well drained soils, preferably of a 
 somewhat light clayey loam. No definite rule can be laid down as to 
 the particular kind of soil for them. Many splendid orchards may be 
 found growing on light, sandy river bottom soils, while others have done 
 equally as well on quite heavy clay, even of the type which we speak of 
 as adobe. Generally speaking, however, the very heavy and very light 
 soils should be avoided. In California the brown or red mesa soils of 
 the foothill sections along the Sierras, where they possess sufficient 
 depth, grow fine trees. Back in the mountains proper, at high altitudes 
 may be found a black loam, very moist and full of humus, which is 
 admirably adapted to the growth of apples. The coast section, includ- 
 ing Santa Cruz and Sonoma counties, has a variety of soils, ranging 
 from light sand to stiff clay, and a number of types are known to pro- 
 duce excellent trees and fruit. Poor soils of any kind are not good for 
 apples, and trees should never be set out on land which is too poor for 
 other crops. Hardpan lands should be avoided. A layer of gypsum, 
 marl, or heavy clay within three feet of the surface is not desirable; 
 neither should soils be chosen where water stands within three feet of 
 the surface at any time during the season. In such cases alkalies are 
 very apt to become bad. While trees may grow fairly well for a number 
 of years with hardpan or water close to the surface, sooner or later they 
 are sure to show signs of trouble. This may manifest itself as small, 
 yellow, sickly foliage, sparse growth, or as a mass of foliage toward tips 
 of twigs, or some other condition indicating starvation. The healthiest 
 trees, generally speaking, are those which root the deepest, and all con- 
 ditions unfavorable to deep rooting should be avoided as much as 
 possible. 
 
 Varieties developed to perfection on a certain type of soil would 
 naturally be expected to do best on similar soils elsewhere. This is a 
 phase of the question that has not been given much attention in the 
 past, but one which no doubt will receive more consideration in the 
 future. Prof. J. W. Nelson of the University of California, -in an 
 address before the State Fruit Growers' Convention at Davis, in June, 
 1914, on the "Fruit Soils of the Great Interior Valley," touched upon 
 this subject and gave some striking illustrations of the truth that 
 varieties do best on similar soils in different sections and made the fol- 
 lowing statement: "In our studies in this state, and elsewhere in the 
 United States, we have observed that each kind of fruit, like other crops, 
 has a soil and climatic environment in which it reaches its greatest per- 
 fection, and when grown on a type differing greatly from that to which 
 the variety had adjusted its functions of growth, failure frequently 
 results and one or more of the essential qualities is missing or is replaced 
 by other inferior or superior ones. So if we have a desirable variety, 
 possessing qualities which we wish to retain, we must grow the variety 
 in a soil and climate like or nearly like those in which it obtained its 
 
APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 39 
 
 desirable qualities. ' ' This is illustrated nicely by Mr. Nelson, in the case 
 of certain varieties of strawberries grown in Delaware, in the following 
 words : 
 
 "Two soil types were present, namely: the Norfolk sandy loam and 
 the Portsmouth sandy loam. The former is a well drained brown soil, 
 moderate to low in humus, quickly warmed up in springtime, and 
 occupies a position from one to several feet higher than the latter. The 
 Portsmouth sandy loam is a low, damp, cool, black soil, very high in 
 humus. The Gandy berry thrives and develops unusually desirable 
 qualities on this soil, but becomes a miserable failure on the Norfolk 
 soil. The Parson's Beauty, Chesapeake, and one or two other varieties 
 reach *rreat perfection on the well drained, warm, moderately fertile 
 Norfolk soil, but fail on the low, damp, cool Portsmouth type. 
 
 "Farmers did not know the cause for this and kept on trying to grow 
 the Gandy, a most attractive market variety, on the Norfolk sandy loam 
 and thousands of dollars were lost every year for years in this attempt 
 alone. After a careful observation of the soils present it was decided to 
 trace out the origin of the Gandy variety and see, if possible, why it was 
 so partial to a certain kind of soil and so sensitive to others. After some 
 time the variety was traced to New Jersey, and it was discovered that 
 the first seedling had originated on the same type of soil on which it was 
 thriving in Delaware." 
 
 This striking illustration will no doubt apply to apples equally as 
 well as to strawberries. 
 
 PREVIOUS CROPPING. 
 
 Many fine orchards are growing on soil which was virgin at the time 
 1 hey were planted. It is equally true that many failures may be traced 
 to lack of preparation of the soil for trees. It is safe to say that 
 Topping previous to setting trees in order to better prepare the ground 
 is always best. There is no better crop to grow previous to planting 
 - than alfalfa. Our arid, western soils are usually low in nitrogen, 
 which may be supplied, in abundance by alfalfa. This crop, because of 
 its root system, prepares the soil for tree roots better, probably, than 
 anything else that can be grown. Trees set on alfalfa ground usually 
 make a very quick and healthy growth. The writer has sometimes 
 advised the cropping of land in alfalfa for a couple of years before 
 planting apples, rather than gain two years in the growth of trees by 
 puttinjr out the orchard at once. The gain in time may be completely 
 compensated for iu a few years by the extra growth and productiveness 
 of the trees following alfalfa. Other legumes, e. g., peas, beans, vetches 
 and the clovers may be used to advantage in preparing the soil for trees, 
 hut none of these possess the merits of the deeply rooted alfalfa. 
 
 LEVELING. 
 
 Many an orchardist has experienced much difficulty in irrigating his 
 orchard, because of inattention to leveling the land before the trees 
 were planted. A scraper is very often necessary for use in cutting 
 down high places and filling in low. When the land has been made 
 approximately level by the use of the scraper, it should be dragged or 
 leveled by means of a common frame, field drag or some other suitable 
 
40 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 implement made for the purpose. After the leveling is done harrowing 
 to break up all clods should not be neglected. Moisture may be con- 
 served much better if a fine dust mulch can be made on the surface of 
 the soil, and a disc harrow, cultivator, common harrow or any other im- 
 plement which will best make the mulch should be used. It should be 
 remembered that a smooth surface such as might be secured by rolling 
 the soil will lose moisture much more quickly than a surface broken 
 up by the harrow or other cultivating tool. 
 
 PLOWING. 
 
 It seems hardly necessary to say that ground should always be well 
 plowed before trees are set out, for nearly every one realizes the import- 
 ance of this operation. It has already been said that a deep root system 
 is advantageous, and for this reason, if for no other, soil should be 
 plowed deeply to better insure such deep rooting. Not only should this 
 deep plowing be practiced previous to setting the trees, but frequently 
 afterwards. In general it may be said that an orchard should be 
 plowed once a year and always to a good depth, so that the soil may be 
 loosened sufficiently to induce deep rooting of the trees. Plowing in 
 preparation for planting is often very carelessly done because of the 
 fact that holes of a considerable size and depth are dug for the trees and 
 it is not considered that careful plowing is necessary. In our arid 
 sections where the rainfall is light where there may be little or no 
 water for irrigation during the dry season and as a consequence it is 
 necessary to conserve all the moisture possible the plowing operation 
 should never be slighted in any way. 
 
 HOW TO DETERMINE NUMBERS OF TREES PER ACRE. 
 
 Any one desiring to find out how many trees can be planted per acre, 
 at given distances apart, can do so by multiplying these distances in feet 
 and dividing 43,560, which is the number of square feet in an acre by 
 the product. For example, it is desired to plant an orchard on the 
 square 30 by 30 feet; the product of these two distances is 900, and 
 43,560 divided by 900 equals 48, the number of trees that can be planted 
 per acre at this distance. If the hexagonal system of planting is to be 
 used the number may be determined by adding to this number fifteen 
 per cent of itself. For example, 48 times .15 equals 7 plus, which added 
 to 48 equals 55 plus. Similarly any other distances being known the 
 number of trees per acre may be determined. 
 
 SYSTEMS FOR PLANTING. 
 
 The different systems for planting trees are well illustrated in the 
 accompanying figures, numbers 20, 21, 22 and 23. There are four of 
 them in all, and they are known as the square, triangular, quincunx and 
 hexagonal methods. The first and last are generally used, the hex- 
 agonal having the advantage of allowing fifteen per cent more trees in 
 a given area. A very common fault in the planting of our older apple 
 orchards was the setting of too many trees per acre. Crowding, after 
 a few years' growth, has as a consequence taken place, to the serious 
 detriment of the crop and to the disadvantage of cultivation, picking 
 and other orchard operations. Most varieties of apples should be 
 
APPLE CKnWIN., IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 41 
 
 le... 
 
 i 
 
 U. U 
 
 _ ..... 
 
 . ...... ........ .,.... 
 
 *t- 4- 4 '4. 
 *.%.&. 4. 
 
 <L a. 4. 4. 
 
 Fig. 20. "The square system. 
 (After Lelong) 
 
 i H. ;H i' 
 
 L ......... _L...1;L 
 
 ... 
 1 4. 
 
 4. 4. ^L 4. 
 
 %.-.4L'."4i. '4L 
 
 - 
 
 I'll.- <|iiinrun\ s\ 
 After Lelong) 
 
 %. '4 4. 
 
 L. 
 
 4, -4=. 4- 
 
 Fig. 21. "The triangular or alternating 
 syptf-m." ' After Lelong) 
 
 ,... I. ....>. 
 " '' 
 
 - K 
 
 I -.'-I 
 V 
 
 U U *''U U % ' 
 
 .U ...U . 
 ....k ..... 
 
 -i. ^ 
 
 :.:. "The hoxagonal system. 
 (After Lelong) 
 
42 
 
 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 planted about thirty feet apart. This distance gives ample room for 
 all the work that must necessarily be done in the orchard, and if prun- 
 ing is properly done there should never be any serious trouble from 
 crowding. Fig. 24 is a young apple orchard at Tehachapi planted 
 30 x 30 square system, which has been well laid out. By setting this 
 distance apart there would be forty-eight trees to the acre. If the 
 hexagonal system were used there would be fifteen per cent more trees, 
 or fifty-five to the acre, with no two trees closer together than thirty 
 feet in this case, the distance between the rows being only twenty- 
 six feet. This method of setting is quite popular because of the extra 
 number of trees that can be planted without crowding. It possesses 
 the disadvantage of leaving less room between the rows for cultivating 
 and hauling fruit. 
 
 DIGGING HOLES. 
 
 Holes should be large enough so that roots may be set with their 
 natural spread and not crowded and twisted together into a small 
 
 Fig. 24. A young apple orchard at Tehachapi. (Original) 
 
 space. Sometimes the difficulty of digging holes is responsible for such 
 a condition of crowding, but trees had better not be set unless the root 
 system can have a fair show from the start. The soil at the bottom of 
 the holes should be loosened to a considerable depth to facilitate deep 
 rooting, and to enable the root system, which is always more or less dam- 
 aged when taken from the nursery, to get a new start quickly. 
 
 It is now quite a general practice to use dynamite in loosening the soil, 
 especially where hardpan exists. There is often much to be gained by 
 its use, but care should be exercised to avoid packing and the consequent 
 defeat of the object for which it was employed. Dynamiting should only 
 be done, in heavy soils with a tendency to run together, at least, when 
 they are dry. If moist there may be a packing or cementing, which is 
 
APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 43 
 
 decidedly bad. The post bar and shovel may do the work as well as 
 dynamite and are safer if the soil is wet. 
 
 LAYING OUT LAND. 
 
 The establishment of points for the setting of trees may be con- 
 veniently done with a surveyor's level or transit. If such instru- 
 ments are not available accurate results may be attained by sighting to 
 stakes with the eye. Difficulty sometimes arises because of irregularly 
 shaped tracts, but in such cases it is only necessary to establish straight 
 lines as guides in laying out the main tract and filling in angular pieces 
 afterwards. By establishing such lines a rectangular tract may be laid 
 off, the boundaries of opposite sides being marked by stakes of a con- 
 venient size and color so that they may be easily seen, and defining 
 accurately the distance between the trees or rows. A line of stakes set 
 the same distance apart should be run parallel to one of these boundary 
 lines somewhere near the middle of the field. These three being deter- 
 mined, points in between to locate position of trees can be accurately 
 placed also, and by sighting in two directions at right angles to each 
 other, there should be little chance of serious errors in alignment. If, 
 instead of the square method of planting, the hexagonal is to be used, it 
 would be necessary to establish twice as many points on the boundary 
 and in the line parallel to same to determine the position of the trees in 
 alternate rows. 
 
APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 SETTING AND CARING FOR THE YOUNG TREES. 
 
 The tract of land to be planted being- laid out with stakes to mark 
 the position of each tree, it is next necessary to have some way of 
 determining the position of a tree where the stake stood after its 
 
 removal in the digging- of 
 the hole. A simple but 
 satisfactory apparatus for 
 doing this is shown in 
 Fig. 25. 
 
 This is placed against 
 the stake at the point a, 
 pins are then driven 
 through the holes at h and 
 7/ 1 , thus securely fastening 
 the frame to the ground. 
 The portion in front of 
 hinges is now thrown back 
 and the hole dug. After- 
 wards the front and main 
 portion of the frame is 
 again moved forward over 
 the hole and the tree placed 
 in the crotch at point a, 
 
 which corresponds exactly to the place where stake originally stood. 
 With such an apparatus great accuracy may be attained. The hinges 
 shown in figure are not a necessity as such an apparatus may be made 
 without, but is less convenient as it must be removed from stakes en- 
 tirely, while holes are being dug. A straight piece of board with notch 
 in center and holes or notches at each end for the stakes is frequently 
 used. 
 
 Fig. 25. A simple apparatus used in setting- 
 trees. (Original) 
 
 DEPTH TO PLANT. 
 
 The rule is to plant trees in the orchard slightly deeper than they 
 grew in the nursery, or in other words, the bud union should be at the 
 surface of the ground when the tree is set. The depth of planting may 
 be varied slightly without any apparent detriment to the growth of 
 the trees, but all things being considered there is probably no better 
 depth than is indicated by the bud union at the ground line, and care 
 must be taken not to plant too deep as such may result in the death of 
 the trees. 
 
 FILLING IN THE HOLE. 
 
 The tree being placed in the hole at the proper depth, and the roots 
 being spread naturally, the soil is now carefully packed about them. 
 The entire space about the crown should be closely filled with soil, 
 and the careful planter will use his hands in doing this work. After 
 the roots have been properly cared for, the shovel is used to fill in the 
 
Al'IM.K UKM\VI.\<, IN r \UKnKNIA. 45 
 
 rest of tlic holt 1 . It is always well to pour a bucket of water into the 
 hole before it has been entirely tilled, so that the tree may have plenty 
 of moisture ami also that the soil may be better parked about the roots. 
 After watering, the hole should be tilled in completely. 
 
 IRRIGATING THE YOUNG ORCHARD. 
 
 The first on.- or two irrigations after planting may be done in fur- 
 rows made previously, and in which trees have been set. While this 
 method insures an ahundanee of water at the start, it may result in 
 damage because of the baking of the soil about the trees and should 
 not be continued for any length of time after the trees are set. It is 
 much better as a general rule to irrigate by means of smaller furrows 
 on either side of the rows, containing small heads of water run long 
 enough to thoroughly saturate tin 1 soil surrounding the trees. The 
 tendency to bake will not be nearly so great as when the ground is 
 actually Hooded. As soon as possible after irrigation, the cultivator, 
 spring tooth harrow, disc harrow, or other suitable implement should 
 be used, so that the moisture may be better conserved and so that all 
 tendency of the soil toward baking, may be eliminated. In sections 
 where irrigation is not practiced the cultivation recommended to follow 
 irrigation, should be conscientiously done to conserve the moisture so 
 sary for the proper growth and development of the trees. 
 
 PROTECTORS FOR YOUNG TREES. 
 
 Young trees are always liable to attack by rabbits and other rodents, 
 and are also subject to sun scald during the summer season. As a protec- 
 tion against both the rodents and sun scald various shields are placed 
 about the trunks. Sometimes a cylinder of heavy paper is used, some- 
 times wire screening, probably best of all are wooden protectors made 
 very thin from some pliable wood. These should be left the natural 
 color and never painted black as sun scald may be worse if black pro- 
 lei-tors are used than with none at all. A common lime whitewash is a 
 splendid sun scald preventive. 
 
46 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 PRUNING. 
 
 CUTTING BACK THE YOUNG TREE WHEN SET. 
 
 It has already been said that a one-year-old whip is the best tree to 
 plant. Such should be cut back when planted, because of the damage 
 which has resulted to the root system in digging and the consequent 
 disturbance of the balance between root system and top. The root 
 hairs, the function of which is to take up the plant food in solution 
 from the soil, have been practically all destroyed, and new ones must 
 be formed before the tree can be supplied by the roots. It is conse- 
 quently dependent, in starting at first, principally upon the stored-up 
 plant food in the top and must grow for a short time, at least, almost 
 independently of root action. This being the case, the less top that 
 there is the better chance will the root system have to make a rapid 
 recovery and renewal of root hairs. The height at which this one-year- 
 old tree should be left will depend upon the distance from the ground 
 that it is desired to make the head. The tendency now is to head trees 
 as low as possible, and still not interfere with cultivation of the orchard. 
 The writer can see no good reason for heading apple trees more than 
 twenty inches above the surface of the ground. This gives enough 
 trunk for a beautiful, shapely tree, and if later pruning is properly 
 done there will be no trouble about cultivation. As the first pruning 
 may largely determine the height of head, a short discussion on the 
 advantages of a low-headed tree will not be out of place here. 
 
 LOW HEADING. 
 
 In California, as well as practically every place where apples are 
 grown, there are times when the sun is very hot and sun scald of the 
 bark may take place to the great detriment of the trees. Such injury 
 makes a favorite place for the flat-headed or so-called sun-borers to 
 gain entrance and do their work of destruction. Knowing this, is there 
 any good reason for leaving a great high trunk, very often unprotected 
 in any way, exposed to the action of the sun ? The destruction wrought 
 by sun scald and its attendant borers in California is so great that low- 
 heading of trees can not be too strongly recommended. 
 
 Most of our orchards are set out for commercial purposes and it is 
 expected that the income from them will be a good one. As in every 
 other business, it is necessary to keep down expenses to the minimum in 
 order to make good profits. The cost of picking fruit is greatly 
 increased when it is necessary to climb tall ladders to get it. 
 
 A certain height of head having been decided upon at planting time, 
 we will say twenty inches for the purpose of illustration, as well as 
 
Al'l'I.K <;!>\YI\<; IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 4? 
 
 it is believed that this is about the right height it is obvious 
 that all brain-lies which form the scaffold or framework of the tree, 
 
 should not emanate from 
 about the same point in the 
 trunk, because of crowding 
 and consequent weakening 
 of the framework. There 
 should be at least from ten 
 inches to one foot allowed for 
 spacing these branches for 
 the very best results. If then 
 we desire to have our apple 
 trees headed within twenty 
 inches of the ground the 
 newly set tree should be cut 
 back to a height of thirty or 
 thirty-two inches. The cur- 
 rent season 's growth will be in 
 the form of many laterals 
 from this thirty inches or 
 more of trunk, and if every- 
 thing is favorable they should 
 develop almost throughout its 
 entire length. See Fig. 26. 
 The practice of rubbing off 
 
 Pi* I'fi.-A tree cut back to thirty inches in sh ts 1<>W down On the trunk 
 
 height when set. (Original) is very otten tollowed dur- 
 
 ing the first slimmer. It is 
 
 doubtful if it pays to do this as the tree needs lots of foliage for its 
 best development, and the chances of sun scald and its attendant evils 
 are also increased by this practice. Moderate summer pruning may. 
 howi-ver. be done, and the second season there should be plenty of 
 branches to choose from in forming the framework. 
 
 SELECTING THE FRAMEWORK BRANCHES THE SECOND SEASON. 
 
 Only a lance is necessary in practically any of the older orchards, 
 when it will be seen that very little attention has been paid in the past 
 to the careful selection of a proper number of branches rightly spaced. 
 Siu-h trees as the one shown in Figs. 27 and 28 are not at all uncommon. 
 This type of head is decidedly bad and has no place in the recently 
 planted orchards. A great number of weak crotches are inevitable in 
 such cases as this; no larger head can be formed than on a lesser num- 
 ber, and it will not be nearly so thrifty, but worst of all. the time will 
 snrely come when, because of accident or otherwise, it will be necessary 
 to prune out some of the large limbs from the framework. The close 
 quarters for pruning will not permit of doing the same with ease, and 
 as a consequence large stubs will be left which always mean disaster to 
 an apple tree. The ends will not heal over, rot fungi will get in their 
 work, borers and termites find conditions favorably and what might 
 have been a long-lived tree is doomed after only a few short years of 
 productivity. 
 
Fig. 27. An apple tree started with too many framework branches. (Original) 
 
APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 49 
 
 From three i<> five branches are plenty, when carefully selected in 
 regard t<> spacing ami balancing the head. 1'nr any apple tree. Many 
 prefer three because of the fact that just as larire a head can be formed 
 upon them as on live, and there will not lie so niueh chance for crowding, 
 Again, the lesser number is desirable because of the extra size they will 
 attain and the consequent ability to hold np greater loads of fruit. 
 Occasionally four or five are left rather than three because of the lia- 
 bility of breaking otf branches in cultivating, etc. If one out of three 
 scaffold branches is broken the head is very apt to be unbalanced 
 and difficulty may be experienced in getting it shaped up well after- 
 ward, where if there were four or five and one should get broken the 
 chances would be more favorable. 
 
 jH. Did appl<- on-hard started with only th 
 
 scaffold branches. (Original) 
 
 FiL-:. '2^ shows one of the oldest orchards the writer has seen, which 
 \vas started with three scaffold branches. While the spacing of these 
 was faulty in this case, the trees are much better than they would have 
 been had more branches been left. Fiir. '-!<> shows an apple tree after 
 the second year's pruning, which has been well headed and which has 
 only three branches left to form the framework. Fig. 31 shows another 
 well-headed tree of the same age. in which five have been left instead 
 of three. Hither tree will make a good growth, but the former will 
 develop the stockiest branches and should be a little better tree at the 
 -nd of the iiTowinji- season. Tlie branches selected for the framework 
 should not be left in their entirety, but should be cut back as shown in 
 FJLTS. .'in and '.}] . If they are left without cutting back, slender willowy 
 irrowths will probably be the result. If cut back to lengths of twelve 
 to fourteen inches a heavier growth and a greater increase in the 
 
 413683 
 
50 
 
 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 
 3fc-^g2 *'^^v>\X*r^ 
 5^^^^?^^5^ 
 
 Fig. 30. Young apple tree after the second season's 
 pruning, showing a head started with three scaffold 
 branches. (Original) 
 
 Fig. 31. Young apple tree after the second season's 
 pruning, showing a head started with five scaffold 
 branches. (Original) 
 
APPLK ,U<\VI\<; IN (' \UF<t;\l A. 
 
 51 
 
 
 
 
 /^ 
 
 ip tree in foreground which lias been heavily pruned, photo- 
 .ifi-aiih*'d at beginning of third season. 
 
 Fig. 33. Same tree shown in Fig. 32, after season's growth. 
 
52 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 diameter of the twigs will take place. The value of this heavy cutting 
 back is well illustrated in Figs. 32 and 33 which show the same tree. 
 The first picture was taken early in the spring and the second on 
 September 21st. 
 
 In the case of most varieties of trees, at least, it is best to cut to 
 outside buds when the second season's pruning is done, in order to 
 spread the head. The amount of spread will, however, depend largely 
 on the variety, and whether outside or inside buds are left at the ter- 
 minals of the twigs will depend upon this varietal factor. For instance, 
 the Winesap has a great tendency to spread and grow bushy, and in 
 order to make it grow- upright, or at least to increase that tendency, 
 cutting should be done just above an inside bud. On the other hand. 
 
 Fig. 33a. Same tree shown in Fig. 33, after being pruned. 
 
 the Rome Beauty tree has a habit of growing upright, similar to the 
 Bartlett pear, and by cutting branches in each case just above outside 
 buds the tendency will be for the branches to grow outwardly and thus 
 spread the head. More attention to this particular phase of the pruning 
 operation will be necessary during successive seasons than during 
 the second. 
 
 The desired number of branches having been selected and cut back 
 as show r n in the figures, the tree is now ready for the third season's 
 growth. 
 
 PRUNING THE THIRD SEASON. 
 
 Fig. 34 shows the ideal type of head after the third season's prun- 
 ing, when three scaffold branches have been used in forming the frame- 
 work. It will be noticed that on each one of these have been left three 
 of the season's branches, selected so as to avoid bad crotches, properly 
 spaced and cut back just as was the previous season's growth. Thus 
 we have a tree with a trunk which has had three years' growth. From 
 
AIMM.K <!KO\V1N<; IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 53 
 
 tliis trunk are three branches which have had two years' growth, and in 
 turn each one of these supports three main branches with a few laterals 
 or fifteen for the entire tree, which have had only one year's growth. 
 If instead of the five scaffold branch tree we develop a head with three 
 there wotild be only nine of the one year old branches left, which, how- 
 ever, is enough with the laterals that they in turn will throw out to 
 make a big tree, capable of bearing just as nnirh fruit as the former, 
 ;md having the advantage usually of extra strength of branches. 
 
 A slight modification of the system recommended for the first three 
 \ears is used in heading the young Gravenstein trees in the Sebastopol 
 
 Kic. :!!. A young apple tree, well headed, after the third season's pruning. 
 
 (Original.) 
 
 section. This tree makes a splendid growth under the conditions exist- 
 ing in that section, and in order to prevent crowding in the head, 
 to render cultivation easy close to the trees, and to develop strong 
 branches, three are left during the second season and cut back as 
 already suggested. Only one branch is allowed to develop on each of the 
 three limbs of the second season's urowth. and is cut back the third 
 season, so that the tree still has only three main branches, but each 
 one cut hack so that the height of the head is increased by only a couple 
 of feet. Fig. 35 shows a young Gravenstein tree at Sebastopol with 
 three selected branches cut back to 7 inches the beginning of the second 
 season and allowed to develop additional length the third. The fourth 
 season tw. <>r three branches are selected on each one of these. In this 
 manner a little higher branching head is developed, but one which is 
 very stronir see Fig. 36). due to the growth being thrown into only 
 ilii-ee branches, well cut back for two seasons after planting. 
 
54 
 
 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 PRUNING THE FOURTH AND FIFTH SEASONS. 
 
 At the end of the third season a shapely head should be formed and 
 such a framework for the future tree developed, that pruning ought 
 not to be a difficult matter. Too often do we find orchardists neglect- 
 ing the work after this time. The first three seasons while trees are 
 small the task is neither expensive nor difficult, but as they grow T there 
 is a rapid increase of both expense and difficulty of pruning in general, 
 and the tendency is to be rather careless afterwards. It must be re- 
 
 Fig. 35. A young Gravenstein tree after the third season's pruning, shaped after the 
 methods used in the Sebastopol section. (Photograph by O. E. Bremner) 
 
 membered, however, that pruning for the best results must not be 
 neglected for a single season. Careful, annual pruning, beginning the 
 first season when the trees are set and continued until they no longer 
 bear crops, will do more toward making a success of the apple business 
 than practically everything else. Neglect for one or more seasons, fol- 
 lowed by very heavy pruning as a result, is not conducive to regular 
 bearing of the trees, nor to successful apple culture. 
 
 During the fourth and fifth seasons the trees will bear a little, but 
 should not be allowed to overload themselves. The orchardist should 
 still devote? his energies toward growing trees and not fruit. All inter- 
 
APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 55 
 
 ferinir branches should be removed. The balance of the head should be 
 preserved and at least a moderate amount of cutting back of branches 
 should be done. Care in cutting to outside buds during the cutting 
 back process will have a tendency to spread the trees if such is desir- 
 able, or the reverse operation may be found necessary. Fruit spurs 
 will have developed by the fifth season and care should be exercised to 
 preserve these on the trunks and larger limbs, where they are so often 
 
 KiK- : >'- A tree with ;i very sin>rm framework developed by lica\y cintiiiK bai-k. 
 ( Photograph by O. E. Bremner) 
 
 cut off by primers. One of the mistakes most commonly made in prun- 
 ing apple orchards is the cutting away of these spurs. Unintelligent 
 primers will almost always begin cutting from the ground and the re- 
 moval of these valuable spurs is the result. Orchardists should insist 
 that pruning be done very largely from a ladder, as the tops of the trees 
 need a good share of the attention in this work. In fact, if heading 
 ha> been well done there should be practically no cutting from the 
 ground, except possibly of a few succulent sprouts. 
 
56 
 
 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 PRUNING MATURE TREES. 
 
 Correct heading and careful annual pruning of the apple tree for 
 the first five years simplifies the pruning operation for the years to 
 follow. Except in cases of accident to trees there should be no large 
 branches to take out. The work thus far should have been done with 
 the idea of leaving just enough large branches to form the best possible 
 head without any interference or crowding. Just as soon as such 
 takes place in later years all branches that have a tendency to interfere 
 with others should be taken out before they attain a large size. More 
 
 Fig. 37. A tree of the Yellow Newtown variety, showing the development of 
 fruit spurs from water sprouts, due to summer pruning. (Original) 
 
 or less cutting back will be necessary each season, and a study may be 
 made of the habits of growth of different varieties and cutting to out- 
 side buds or branches, or the opposite may be practiced according to 
 the needs of the variety. In most cases fruit spurs should be preserved 
 and it may even be necessary to encourage their development. 
 
 Mr. W. S. Ballard of the Bureau of Plant Industry, U. S. Depart- 
 ment of Agriculture, and Mr. W. H. Volck, County Horticultural Com- 
 missioner of Santa Cruz County, have been carrying on some very 
 interesting experiments for the past few years to determine the feasi- 
 bility of developing fruiting spurs from the so-called water sprout 
 growth that always develops more or less in every orchard. They 
 found that by cutting back such sprouts early in the summer season. 
 
APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 57 
 
 leaving two or three inches at first and cutting the new growth back 
 two or three times later in the season, so that by the end of the growing 
 period there would be formed a growth about six inches long, a fruit 
 spur that would bear excellent fruit the following season could be 
 developed. Fig. 37 shows one of the trees in the experimental orchard 
 near Watsonville. Similar results may be attained by cutting back 
 these sprouts during the dormant season, but it may take several 
 years to form healthy, vigorous fruit spurs. By the summer pruning 
 method only one season is necessary. Not only are the water sprouts 
 
 
 I-'iii. ::v---l5ranrh \\rll studded with apples, close to the main limb and not in 
 danger of wind damage. (Original) 
 
 cut back but also new growth throughout the entire head of the trees. 
 Thus fruit spurs are formed close to the larger limbs and as a result 
 apples are produced close in as shown in Fig. 38. 
 
 The results of the experimental work done by Messrs. Mallard and 
 Volck mean much to orchardists who have allowed the destruction by 
 pruning of fruit spurs low down on their trees. Heavy cutting back 
 from the top will generally induce much of the so-called water sprout 
 urowth low down, which may be utilized in the development of spurs. 
 Xot only the water sprouts low down on the trunk may be made over 
 into fruit bearing wood, but new growth anywhere on the tree may be 
 handled in the same manner with the consequent development of fruit 
 spurs. In places where trees have a tendency to bear light loads of 
 fruit this method of summer pruning, whereby all rank growth is 
 checked and the development of fruit spurs encouraged, can be used 
 to very great advantauv. 
 
 NATURAL BRACING. 
 
 When a tree has not been well headed or well pruned it is sometiim-s 
 desirable to brace the branches against possible injury. This is done 
 by twisting together two young twigs, when a union bet\veen the two 
 will take place, forming sucli a brace as shown in Fig. 39. 
 
58 
 
 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 STUBS. 
 
 Notwithstanding the fact that the practice of leaving stubs in an 
 orchard when pruning, has been condemned by expert horticulturists 
 in practically every publication on pruning, there are still a great 
 many trees to be seen in some of our otherwise splendid orchards, with 
 these unsightly and dangerous stubs, bearing testimony to the fact that 
 pruners either did not understand their business or did not care how 
 the work was done. 
 
 Branches should always be cut off close to other branches or trunks 
 from which they emanate, in which case healing will take place and the 
 wounds will in time be covered over with new bark, provided that rot 
 
 Natural brace 
 
 to strengthen branches. (Original) 
 
 fungi, with their attendant decay, do not develop. If stubs of any size 
 are left on apple trees, they always die back to the point where the cut 
 should have been made and very frequently dying does not stop at 
 this point, but the trunk or larger limbs are also involved. 
 
 The reason for this dying back is very clear, when we consider how 
 the tree gets its supply of plant food that enters into its growth. As 
 every orchardist knows, this food is taken from the ground in solution 
 in the water of the soil, and is carried upward through the sap-wood to 
 the leaves. There, through a complex process it is elaborated or con- 
 verted into starch and sugar and becomes available food, which then 
 journeys downward through the cambium or growing layer of the bark. 
 11 is then capable of healing wounds and entering into the life of trees. 
 Before going to the leaves in its crude form there could be no healing. 
 Knowing this it can easily be seen why dying back takes place in the 
 stubs that are left by rnivloss or thoughtless primers. The apple tree 
 
AI'IM.K t;Uo\VIN<l IN CAI.IKOKNIA. 
 
 59 
 
 is not quirk 1<> develop buds and throw out new growth from a cut off 
 branch, hence we have a stub without ;my foliage to manufacture the 
 plant food from the crude material taken up by the roots, and while the 
 sap may journey upward for a time through such stubs, there is no 
 downward flow of elaborated sap from the leaves and consequently no 
 healing. Rot t'unun get in their work soon afterwards, drying out takes 
 place, and a tree may he ruined in a very short time. Many an orchard 
 in California has either died outright or become worthless because of 
 the careless leaving of stubs. 
 
 TREATMENT OF WOUNDS. 
 
 Since drying out over the cut surface takes place very rapidly after 
 a hranch has heen removed, it has been the practice to paint over wounds 
 to prevent this drying, thus giving the healing process a better chance 
 to operate. It is probable that the idea of painting has been carried 
 to the extreme and too much dependence has been placed upon it. A 
 hianrh can not heal, as has already been pointed out, unless the cut 
 has been properly made. There has been a tendency among some 
 orchardists to cut without any care whatever, and then paint heavily. 
 
 Fig. 40. A good type of pruning saw. 
 
 expecting the treatment to work the miracle of healing against iriture's 
 way. It probably does not pay at all to treat small cuts, and unless the 
 branch removed is three inches in diameter or more, the time and labor 
 spent in painting would probably be lost. 
 
 When treatment of wounds is thought to be necessary there is nothing 
 better to use than a common lead paint. Certain grades of asphaltum 
 have also been used with success. 
 
 PRUNING TOOLS. 
 
 Much time is .often wasted and sometimes damage done to trees 
 because of the use of poor tools. Practically all the pruning work about 
 
 l-'iir. H A 
 
 i\j,.. .,)' pruning shears. 
 
 an on-hard ean be done with the saw shown in Fig 40 and shears in 
 Ki'_r. 41. The former has a blade which can be inclined at any angle, 
 so that it is possible to cut in almost any kind of a crotch. The blades. 
 \v hen broken, can be easily removed and replaced at small cost, 
 
60 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 TOP-WORKING APPLE TREES. 
 
 It frequently happens that varieties of trees are found, when they 
 come into bearing, to be different from those that were ordered ; again, 
 varieties may have been poorly chosen and found to be unadapted to 
 the conditions where they are set out. In either case grafting over to 
 some other variety may be necessary. 
 
 In the case of two or three year old trees this process is very simple 
 and may be done without any appreciable injury to the trees. Such 
 young trees as these can be very easily budded by inserting buds of 
 the desired variety into small branches low down. Several branches 
 can be selected because of their placement being such as to be desirable 
 in the formation of the head. The best time is in August or September. 
 The following spring, if the buds are found to be green, indicating 
 that they have united with the bark of the tree, branches should be cut 
 away just above, thus throwing the strength of the tree into the buds, 
 when they should make a very rapid growth. If trees have large tops 
 it may not be well to cut them all away at once, biit to leave a portion 
 of them until the buds have made a good start, when the entire tops 
 can be removed. 
 
 If grafting is preferred to budding, larger limbs may be chosen. In 
 fact, if the tree is only two years old it may be successfully grafted 
 by cutting it back below the branches and inserting one or two scions, 
 according to the size of the trunk. There are several methods of graft- 
 ing, the two most common being known as kerf and cleft grafting. The 
 first consists of the insertion of a scion in a V-shaped opening made in 
 side of limb, the scion being shaped to fit tightly into this opening, 
 where it is immediately covered with wax. Cleft grafting consists in 
 the splitting of the ends of the sawed-off limbs and the insertion of 
 scions previously cut at one end, so that the cambium layer may be 
 brought into contact with the corresponding layer of the limb being 
 grafted. Whether cleft or kerf grafting is done the scions should be 
 sloped a little outward, so that the cambium layers will cross, otherwise 
 there may be no point of contact between the two and as a consequence 
 no union. Crossing is all that is necessary to insure a good union. 
 Waxing to exclude the air should be carefully done. 
 
 The scion should be made from one year old wood with well formed, 
 thrifty buds taken from a good producing tree. Succulent water sprout 
 growth is not desirable for scion wood. Two or three buds are sufficient 
 to leave on each scion and the ends, if cut, should be waxed over. 
 
 What has been said in regard to grafting young trees will apply to 
 old also, but very large limbs should not be chosen for grafting. Bud- 
 ding may be successfully done in young growth low down on older 
 trees. If limbs two inches in diameter or more are cut off for the inser- 
 tion of scions more than one should be put in a stub. In the case of 
 very large limbs, several must be inserted if the healing of the cut 
 surface takes place entirely around the stub. A scion should not bo 
 expected to heal for more than an inch and one half or two indies on 
 
APIM.K GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 61 
 
 each side, and enough must In- used to heal the stub entirely around, or 
 else drying out and the death of parts not Fed hy the downward flow 
 of sap from the leaves of tin* scion will take place, weakening, it' not 
 eventually killing, the stub and its graft. 
 
 .Many experienced grafters prefer to leave a considerable portion of 
 the top of old trees for one or two seasons after grafting. This is 
 undoubtedly a u r ood practice, but such should not be left long enough 
 to interfere with the growth of the grafts. 
 
 Aphis are very often exceedingly destructive to young grafts and 
 are should be taken to control them by means of sprays before they 
 bring about permanent injury. 
 
 GRAFTING WAXES. 
 
 A good grafting wax being one of the requisites for successful graft- 
 ing, the following, copied from "Fruit Growing in Arid Regions, " by 
 Paddock and Whipple, is given: 
 
 " * * * There are the waxes applied warm with a brush and those applied cold, the 
 heat of the hands being sufficient to make them pliable. With the first it is neces- 
 sary to hav- special equipment to keep the wax melted in the field, and this generally 
 limits its use to a fe\v professional grafters who are prepared to use it. The cold 
 waxes are prepared for use by melting together the ingredients, pouring the melted 
 material in cold water, and pulling it like taffy until it becomes a buff color. It can 
 be kept from season to season by immersing it in water. The common formula given 
 for the preparation of this wax is four pounds of resin, two pounds of beeswax, and 
 one pound of tallow. Paraffin may be substituted for the beeswax in this formula; 
 although it seems that the resulting wax is hardly as durable, it serves the purpose 
 very well. By increasing the amount of resin in the above formula to six pounds, it 
 makes a very good hard wax for warm application. Another good wax to be applied 
 warm is prepared by melting together three pounds of resin, one pound of beeswax 
 and one pint of raw linseed oil." 
 
62 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 INTERCROPPING. 
 
 During the five years or more while the young apple orchard is 
 coming into bearing it is often quite a problem for the man of limited 
 means to make a living, and he must either secure work elsewhere or 
 grow crops between the trees, out of which he can make a sufficient sum 
 to keep up expenses until a profit can be made from the apples. 
 
 Cropping of land between orchard trees, even while young, has some- 
 times been discouraged, but the writer can see no good reason why such 
 should not be done even after trees come into bearing, provided that 
 certain precautions are exercised. The orchard should of course receive 
 first consideration and no crops of any kind should be grown between 
 the tree rows, which in their care would detract from the care of the 
 trees. In this connection it is unwise to grow crops that require water 
 late in the summer or in early fall, as irrigation at that time may start 
 new growth or keep trees growing too long into the winter, in either 
 case rendering them liable to injury during the winter months, because 
 of the soft unripened condition of the wood. 
 
 It may happen that there is scarcity of irrigation water for the 
 orchard. In such case it would also be unwise to plant intercrops of 
 any kind and thus take away the moisture needed by the trees. 
 
 Crops such as corn, which make a rank growth, might not be best 
 for very young trees, on account of shading them too much. 
 
 Notwithstanding these objections that may be cited against an inter- 
 crop in the young orchard, conditions are very often such that with 
 the proper crops and the proper care there will be no harm done, and 
 much good may even result to the orchard because of better care due 
 to these crops. 
 
 As was mentioned in another chapter, California soils are usually 
 deficient in nitrogen and any leguminous crop is good to grow between 
 the trees, because of its adding this important element to the soil. Peas 
 and beans for this reason are excellent as intercrops, and provided that 
 market facilities for such are good there is probably nothing better that 
 can be grown. Of the non-leguminous crops may be mentioned potatoes, 
 cantaloupes, strawberries, cabbages, celery, in fact almost any vegetable 
 crop, and the one chosen will depend in most cases upon the demand 
 for the product. 
 
 Field corn is quite frequently used as an intercrop, but is probably 
 not the best crop for the first year, at least. Its tendency to grow very 
 tall if it does well is against it, for the young trees are very often shaded 
 too much, and as a consequence fail to make the growth that they 
 should. This objection may be partly eliminated by keeping the rows 
 of corn several feet away from rows of trees, thus giving the latter more 
 room. Sweet corn and popcorn, because of their smaller growth and 
 lesser amount of shade, could be grown with less danger of damage than 
 the field corn. 
 
 The growing of intercrops is very often discouraged because of the 
 plant food that is taken from the soil, thus depriving the trees of their 
 supply. This objection is certainly weak, for no one should expect to 
 grow orchard trees on land for many years without fertilizing to supply 
 the elements removed, and the growing of crops between the trees merely 
 hastens the time when such fertilization must be done. 
 
APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 IRRIGATION, CULTIVATION- COVER CROPS AND 
 FERTILIZERS. 
 
 The scarcity of water in some parts of the state where apples are 
 uTown, and the total absence of rain during the summer season, makes 
 the conservation of moisture in the soil one of the important orchard 
 problems. Fortunately, the rainfall during the winter is ordinarily 
 quite heavy and the ground receives a good soaking during that season. 
 If nothing is done to check the evaporation of moisture after the rains 
 cease and the hnt weather comes on, the soil may become too dry in a 
 very short time. Those who are fortunate enough to have a good supply 
 of irrigation water are inclined to use it freely, thus keeping the orchard 
 
 Fig. 4L'. Well tilled orchard in Humboldt County. 
 
 in a moist condition without any attempt to conserve what is added. 
 Very frequently, it may be said, too much water is used for the 
 good of the orchard, which would be better off if less were applied and 
 the cultivator used more. The best condition of the soil occurs not 
 when it is excessively wet. but when it is quite moist and the surface 
 not baked but in a loose* workable condition. Aeration is just as neces- 
 sary for the best development of the root system as moisture, and an 
 excessive quantity of the latter may cut off the air supply to such an 
 extent as to interfere materially with the grow r th of the trees. 
 
 It is sometimes difficult to make people believe that cultivation does 
 actually conserve the moisture, but a trial only is sufficient to convince 
 the most skeptical. The reason that it does lies in the fact that the 
 
64 
 
 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 capillary action, by means of which the soil water is brought to the sur- 
 face and there evaporated, is checked. In other words, the soil is made 
 up of fine particles with spaces in between which become filled with 
 water. As a liquid in a fine tube will always travel upwards and reach 
 a level much higher than outside the tube, so in the soil we find the same 
 tendency, and we may conceive of the water as coming up through 
 myriads of little tubes which remain wide open to the surface unless 
 something is done to interfere with their continuity. Such interference 
 may be brought about by the use of the cultivator during the summer 
 season, when evaporation takes place so rapidly under ordinary condi- 
 tions ; but, as they will soon open up again after disturbance by the cul- 
 tivator, frequent cultivations are necessary, so that as fast as the mois- 
 
 Fig-. 43. Well tilled orchard in Santa Cruz County. (Original) 
 
 ture finds its way to the surface through these tubes, it is checked by 
 again breaking the capillarity. Figs. 42 and 43 show two well tilled 
 orchards in Humboldt and Santa Cruz counties. The ideal condition of 
 the soil to prevent evaporation is that of a dust mulch, which may be 
 maintained by working the soil with some type of harrow or cultivator 
 once a week. Some enthusiastic advocates of clean cultivation have 
 gone over their orchards even more frequently than this. 
 
 Besides being a valuable means whereby moisture may be conserved, 
 cultivation is beneficial in keeping down weeds, and also places the soil 
 in the best possible condition for root development and the resultant 
 tree growth. It is a matter of common observation that orchards to 
 
Al'PLK (;R(WIN<; IX CALIFORNIA. 65 
 
 which frequent summer cultivations are given make better growth than 
 do those where cultivation is neglected. In most parts of the arid \\Yst. 
 hut not commonly in California, we find conditions that do not favor 
 summer cultivation. The winters in these places are so cold that noth- 
 ing can l>e in-own during that season of the year. Consequently there is 
 no time, if clean cultivation is practiced, when a crop can be grown for 
 tlie addition of nitrogen or humus, hence the necessity of growing a 
 summer cover crop. 
 
 COVER CROPS. 
 
 In most parts of California our fine warm winter climate enables 
 us to LITOW crops of some kind in the orchard during this season. 
 Owinu 1 t<> this fact summer cultivation is advocated and is practiced 
 successfully nearly everywhere that apples are grown. Because our 
 soils are deficient in nitrogen, a leguminous cover crop is preferable. 
 Amoim the legumes which have given good satisfaction under our con- 
 ditions may be mentioned the common burr clover, vetches, peas, sweet 
 clover and alfalfa. Many object to the growing of alfalfa in an apple 
 on-hard, and probably it is not good practice to sow it unless it is done 
 with the idea of using it for a cover crop only and not for hay. On 
 hardpan soils there is nothing better than the root system of the alfalfa 
 to penetrate into this hard layer, thus breaking it up more or less and 
 enabling the apple roots to go down deeper. When used for this pur- 
 pose it should of course be left growing in the orchard more than one 
 season. AVhen alfalfa is sown it should be kept some distance from the 
 trees in order to facilitate plowing later on, and is only desirable where 
 plenty <f water is available for irrigation. Generally speaking, the 
 cover crnp should be grown only during the winter season, being plowed 
 under early in the spring, if possible, before the rains have ceased. 
 Frequent cultivations later on, after the season becomes warm, will 
 result in conservation of the moisture. If it is not possible to grow 
 a leguminous cover crop, an annual crop such as rye, wheat or barley 
 may le umwii. In this case the principal value would be to better the 
 physical condition of the soil, together with the addition of humus. 
 There are places in the state, no doubt, where apples are grown, and 
 where the rainfall is insufficient to make a cover crop practical, even 
 during the winter season. In such cases fertilizing must be done in 
 some other way. 
 
 One of the most successful apple u rowers of the East says that he 
 made Iris on-hard practically an annual bearer by the use of cover crops. 
 
 FERTILIZERS. 
 
 Then- is nothing better for the orchard than barnyard manure, and 
 
 while the supply is often limited it is in other cases wasted when it 
 miirht br used to irood advantage. It is always wise to apply this 
 liberally, unless the cost is such as to make it prohibitive. 
 
 nmercial fertilizers have not been used extensively, but no doubt 
 would -ive n-siilis under certain conditions at least. Spraying with 
 nitrate of soda and other nitrates, in the early spring, has been done 
 
 
66 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 in an experimental way by W. H. Volck at Watsonville. The results 
 that he has attained have on the whole been excellent, and this method 
 of applying nitrates bids fair to come into general use. 
 
 Many of our California soils are deficient in lime and the addition 
 of either air slaked or ground stone lime might be beneficial. Xo rules 
 can be laid down for this work because of the great varieties of soil 
 that occur in the state. If trees are not doing well it may be that 
 fertilizers of some kind are needed. A soil analysis will serve as a 
 guide as to what should be added, but must not be depended upon too 
 much, for while it shows what elements of plant food the soil contains, 
 and the proportions of each present, it does not show how much of each 
 is available, so after all much experimental work is necessary. 
 
 As stated previously, nitrates are nearly always scarce and fertiliza- 
 tion usually means the addition of the element nitrogen, either in the 
 form of leguminous cover crops grown in the soil, or mineral nitrates 
 applied direct or in the form of a spray to the trees. 
 
Al'l'I.K (JK'OWIXG IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 ' U AFTER XI. 
 
 THINNING. 
 
 One important operation in connection with the handling of our im- 
 mature apple crop, vix. tli inning, is too often neglected. The excuse 
 generally irivm for not thinning is that it costs too much. This is a 
 howi-ver. where a little extra money invested will add greatly to 
 the income of an orchard. There are records of a number of experi- 
 ments that have been carried out which prove conclusively that thinning 
 I -ays. and to neglect the operation means to fail to do one of the most 
 important things in connection with the growing of apples. 
 
 INFLUENCE UPON THE FRUIT. 
 
 It is the desire of ever}- fruit grower to produce fruit possessing a 
 good size, high color, fine quality and uniformity. Such is usually 
 impossible unless thinning is practiced. 
 
 The size that fruit attains not taking into consideration the varia- 
 tion due to variety is influenced more or less by age of trees, stock, 
 soil, climate, cultural methods and the presence of disease or insect 
 Some of these influences may be such as to prevent the pro- 
 duction <;f a desirable size of fruit, but in general our trees will with 
 ordinary care produce fruit of good size, provided that they are not 
 overloaded. The time has passed when we want to place a premium 
 on abnormally large fruit. It is not the purpose to advocate thinning 
 so heavily as to bring about an overgrown condition, but during seasons 
 of big crops to thin to a point where the most desirable size for the 
 variety can be attained. Any one who is at all familiar with the 
 orchard business knows that great losses are often occasioned because 
 of undersized apples. 
 
 The desirability of producing good color is unquestioned. Not only 
 does this please the eye but also adds to the quality. A rosy 
 AVinesap or Baldwin apple w T ill be sweet and juicy, with a flavor to 
 suit the most delicate palate, while the same varieties grown on the 
 same trees, but uncolored. will be scarcely relished. Leaving out of 
 consideration the fact that color influences quality in the variety, the 
 beautiful red apple will command higher prices on the market than 
 better varieties without color. 
 
 AVhile size, colm- and quality must all be taken into consideration, 
 then- is probably nothing more desirable than uniformity, and in no 
 way can this condition be brought about better than by thinning; in 
 fact, it is impossible during seasons of large crops, at least, to secure 
 uniformity in size in any other way. The greatest argument in favor 
 of thinning, as far as the fruit alone is concerned, is based on the above 
 statement. A lack of uniformity complicates standardization methods 
 and all the operations of packing, and is not at all desirable in the 
 aiming and drying business. If by thinning, fruit can be made to 
 average well in si/e. a considerable outlay of money is justifiable for 
 the operation. 
 
 Another argument in favor of thinnini: lias to do with the pres- 
 en<-e of the wor.-t insect pest of this fruit, vix. the codling moth. 
 
68 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 If apples are allowed to grow in clusters so that they are touching one 
 another the larvae not only take advantage of the ideal point of entry 
 between the apples, but the sprayer is placed at a decided disadvantage, 
 for he finds it extremely difficult to get the spray where it will be eaten 
 by the worms. Varieties that have a tendency to cluster are nearly 
 always riddled by codling moth if the pest is present in large numbers, 
 unless the clusters are broken up by thinning. 
 
 INFLUENCE OF THINNING UPON TREES. 
 
 As far as the trees themselves are concerned there are three main 
 reasons why thinning should be practiced : first, it allows them to make 
 a proper growth; secondly, it prevents breakage of limbs, and thirdly, 
 it induces uniform annual crops. 
 
 A tree is capable of taking just so much plant food in the way of 
 nitrogen, potash, phosphoric acid, etc., from the soil through its roots, 
 and carbon from the air through its leaves. An excessive amount of 
 fruit is apt to require most of this food at the expense of a good thrifty 
 growth. The desire of most orchardists is to develop a tree to bearing 
 size in the shortest possible time, and to have it bear abundant crops 
 each season, often depriving it of proper growth in so doing. Our 
 trees, I fear, are too often worked to death, and we wonder why in a 
 few years ' time they begin to deteriorate and the crops of former years 
 are not harvested. The splendid deep soils so full of plant foods that 
 we find so commonly in our state, will do much towards bringing about 
 the heavy annual bearing so greatly desired, but no soil will last for- 
 ever, and the time will come when trees, or whatever else may be grown 
 on land for year after year, will develop large crops only at the expense 
 of growth and health, unless something is done in the way of fertilizing 
 to build up the soil and thinning to prevent over-bearing. 
 
 Thinning to prevent branches from breaking down under their 
 weight of fruit is quite generally practiced, but too frequently do we 
 find the prop doing this duty. A heavy crop of apples is usually fol- 
 lowed by a light one. This is undoubtedly due to the fact that the 
 trees are allowed to bear too heavily during seasons of good crops, con- 
 sequently the formation of fruit buds for the next season's crop is 
 prevented. A tree not only has to mature its crop of fruit and make 
 a certain amount of growth during a season, but it also has to make 
 fruit buds for the succeeding season, a process which is frequently 
 rendered impossible by overproduction. 
 
 THINNING BY PRUNING. 
 
 The cutting out of wood containing fruit buds during the dormant 
 season may be done as the first step in thinning the crop. Pruning, 
 when done with the idea of thinning the fruit, must be done intelli- 
 gently and not by men whose only knowledge of the business consists 
 in their ability to cut off a branch because they think it interferes with 
 the proper shape of the tree. Because of no knowledge of the bearing 
 habits of an apple tree we sometimes see trees from which all the fruit 
 spurs have been cut as high above the ground as a man can reach. 
 These are exaggerated cases, but serve to illustrate the fact that too 
 little attention is paid to some of these fundamental principles which 
 1'Orir upon the subject of thinning. 
 
APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 69 
 
 Pruning can not be made to take tin- place of thinning altogether. 
 Fruit will duster just the same on pruned trees as those unpruned, 
 and there is no way of breaking up these clusters and giving each fruit 
 for development, except by picking off part of it by hand. 
 
 THINNING BY REMOVING THE FRUIT AFTER IT SETS. 
 
 The earlier the fruit is removed the better chance will the remainder 
 have to develop. While no time can be set, that will not be subject to 
 \\ul<- variation with seasons and different fruits, in general thinning 
 should be done just as soon as possible after the fruit sets and danger of 
 the early, or so-called June drop, is over. The work may be done quite 
 handily with a pair of thinning shears such as shown in Fig. 44. These 
 may be purchased at small cost and will greatly aid in the work. 
 
 Fig. 44. A good type of shears for use in thinning apples. 
 
 The amount of fruit that should be left on a tree is, of course, an 
 I'Xi-eedingly hard thing to judge. Some have advocated thinning with 
 tin- idea of leaving a certain number of boxes of well developed fruit. 
 While this might not be done with a very great degree of accuracy at 
 first, those who have tried it claim that in a very short time one will 
 ii-arn just about how to space the apples so that an amount approxi- 
 mating a certain number of boxes is left. This spacing will, of course, 
 vary with the variety, the average being about six inches. If trees 
 are well set with fruit so that an even distribution can be brought 
 about, all clusters should be broken up until no two apples touch, and 
 all fruit on the tips of small twigs should be removed. Careful, sys- 
 tematic work is necessary for the greatest success. He who goes into 
 his on-hard with a pole and knocks off some fruit here and there has 
 not thinned. True, he has relieved the tree of some of its burden, but, 
 in all probability, in such a way that he will not be repaid to any 
 extent for his efforts. 
 
70 APPLE GROWING IX CALIFORNIA. 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 INJURY AND PROTECTION OF APPLES FROM FREEZING. 
 
 It has already been stated that one of the chief limiting factors in 
 the production of apples throughout the various states of the Union is 
 frost. It is true that there are certain sections of the country where 
 frosts have seldom or never occurred to the detriment of the fruit crop. 
 Experience of orchardists in California and elsewhere has led to the 
 conclusion that no section, no matter how free it has been from killing 
 frosts during the danger period of trees in the past, can be said to 
 possess immunity, and there may come a time when the temperature 
 will drop so low that buds, blossoms and fruit, if not trees, must suc- 
 cumb. There are, of course, many places where fine fruit is grown dur- 
 ing favorable seasons that are visited by killing frosts periodically, and 
 the chances for and against raising a crop are about even. Such sections 
 do not offer the best advantages for commercial orcharding unless some 
 practical means of protecting the crop during the danger period may 
 be employed. 
 
 PERIOD OF GREATEST DANGER FROM KILLING FROSTS. 
 
 In the case of apples, the injury is usually done either to the buds, 
 blossoms or small fruit in the early spring, about blossoming time, 
 although a severe freeze during the winter season may kill the buds, 
 which often stand temperatures ranging from ten to thirty degrees or 
 more below zero. The period of greatest danger corresponds very 
 closely to the time from when the buds begin to swell in the spring 
 until the fruit has reached a diameter of a half inch. This time is, 
 of course, subject to variations in climate, due to altitude or local 
 conditions. 
 
 BUD INJURY. 
 
 Winter or early spring injury to buds may be detected by a discolored 
 area seen in the center upon cutting them open. The pistil or central 
 organ of the blossom is usually the first part to freeze and, once frozen, 
 fertilization is rendered impossible. Blossoms so injured will sometimes 
 develop, and the trees will come out in bloom and be just as beautiful 
 as if nothing had happened. An examination of such blossoms will show 
 the blackened pistil in the center. A peculiar form of freezing of apple 
 blossoms, which has come to my notice in another state, destroys the 
 petals entirely. The rest of the parts of the blossom develop normally, 
 fertilization takes place as usual, and a good crop of fruit may set 
 on the trees. 
 
 FRUIT INJURY. 
 
 Often fruit develops from frost-injured blossoms, but as a rule only 
 when fertilization has taken place prior to the injury. In Bulletin 91 
 of the Montana Experiment Station, Prof. O. B. Whipple gives an 
 interesting account of the parthenocarpic development (development 
 without fertilization) of apples, most of which were seedless and core- 
 
APPLE GROWING IN < A I.I FOR N I A. 
 
 71 
 
 .UK! unfit for use commercially. It is a very common tliinu 1" 
 Hud seedless apples or pears during ' season following a l'rcc/e at 
 hlnss-Miiiiiir time or shortly afterwards. 1- i^. 1") is a picture of two 
 Yellow Belltlowers picked from Mr same t ree. One apple is almost true 
 to the typ- <:f this particular variety; the other is very much flattened 
 
 .1 shaped Yellow B-lli lower on right, abnormal on left because of 
 frost injury. (Original) 
 
 Fig. 4G. Normal sliap* <1 Yellow Bellflowt-r m right contains well-developed seeds; 
 abnormal frost-injured specimen on lett h;ss none. (Original) 
 
 and distorted. .Most of the apples in the orchard where these were 
 picked i-csembled the latter, and it was difficult to find a typical-shaped 
 Yellow BellHower. All apples of this shape were seedless. This trouble 
 might easily be confused with distortion of apples from the attack of 
 
72 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 purple apple aphis. This pest always leaves the apples small and mis- 
 shapen, but well-formed seeds are present. Fig. 46 shows the same two 
 apples as in Fig. 45, which have been cut open. A well-developed seed 
 is shown in the core of the typical-shaped apple, while the other one has 
 none. 
 
 Another form of injury is the so-called frost russet illustrated in 
 Fig. 47. The russeting very frequently shapes itself in a band about the 
 fruit, but in some cases may occur in the calyx and stem cavities. This 
 injury is very commonly confused with that resulting from scab, 
 Bordeaux injury and various other things. The presence of the charac- 
 teristic bands as illustrated is a sure indication of frost injury. 
 
 Fig. 47 Frost russet band on apples. (Original) 
 LEAF INJURY. 
 
 A peculiar crumpling or blistering of the leaves of certain varieties 
 usually follows severe spring freezes. The epidermis of the leaf may 
 separate from the inside portion wherever these blisters occur. Such 
 leaves are apt to turn yellow and drop very early in the season. This 
 form of injury is not serious. 
 
 SUSCEPTIBILIT%Y OF VARIETIES. 
 
 Some varieties of apples will stand much more freezing than others. 
 Again, some varieties will blossom much later than others, thus escaping 
 a frost that would injure earlier blossoming varieties. It is. therefore, 
 wise for the orchardist who lives in sections of killing spring frosts 
 to select the hardiest, and in some cases preference should be given to 
 late blooming varieties. As an illustration of this fact the Rome Beauty 
 and Rails apples blossom much later than the Ben Davis and Jona- 
 than, consequently often escape injury when the latter named varieties 
 are killed by a freeze coming about blossoming time. 
 
APPLE GROWING IN CAf JF( >RXIA. 73 
 
 FROST PROTECTION. 
 
 It is safe to say that the orchard which is well cared for in general is 
 less liable to injury from freezing than the one which is neglected. The 
 first point which should be emphasized, then, in connection with protect- 
 ing the orchard from killing frosts, is proper care. Cultivation, prun- 
 ing, fertilization, irrinat ion and spraying are all necessary at certain 
 times for the best development of trees, including the fruit buds. If 
 the buds can go into the winter in perfect condition, there is every 
 reason to believe that they will stand more than they would if devital- 
 ized because of unhealthy trees. 
 
 SMUDGING. 
 
 It has lon-j- been known that there is little danger from killing fr 
 on a cloudy niuht. This fact has led to a belief that the same protection 
 ;* {'forded by the clouds can be produced artificially by means of smoke. 
 With this idea in view, various materials which in burning will pro- 
 duce much smoke, have been burned in orchards during frosty nights. 
 This method of protection is known as smudging, and is fast giving 
 way to the better method of heating. It is probable that light frosts 
 have been warded off by means of such smudges, or at least a sufficient 
 blanket has been formed over an orchard in the early morning to pre- 
 vent the rapid thawing of the blossoms which, it' thawed out too rapidly. 
 are sure to be killed. It is now thought that smudging in itself is of 
 little value, and many of the successful orchard heaters now in use are 
 designed to utilize as much of the fuel as possible; the more complete 
 the combustion the better they are thought to be. 
 
 ORCHARD HEATING. 
 
 "While there are still many problems in connection with orchard heat- 
 in. ir yet to be solved, it is now frenerally conceded that, under certain 
 cnnditinns. at least, a crop of fruit citrus or deciduous can be saved, 
 even though the temperature falls as much as fifteen degrees below 
 ing. During spring freezes of four different seasons in Colorado, 
 the writer had abundant opportunity to study the various operations 
 of the orchard heating business in time of action, and the effect of 
 such heating in saving fruit. The first practical demonstration of what 
 could he accomplished was made in the spring of 1908. Three or four 
 different parties had previously purchased some of the Bolton orchard 
 heaters, which at that time were manufactured in California. By the 
 use of these small lard-pail pots, as they were called, which held about 
 three quarts of oil, these men succeeded in saving a considerable amount 
 of fruit. The demonstration was a perfect one, for only in the heated 
 areas was there any fruit. Before this time there were orchards in 
 California where heaters had been used. The Limoneira Company had 
 done considerable work along this line, and had used wire baskets for 
 burning coal with more or less success. The fact that it was possible 
 to save a crop of fruit by burning coal or oil in containers led to the 
 making and patenting of a great many types of heaters, practically 
 any one of which will do the work, provided that the necessary amount 
 of fuel is burned. Both coal and oil have <riven satisfaction, but the 
 latter is preferred by most orchardists. in California, where oil is so 
 
74 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 cheap and coal is so high, it does not seem as though any one would be 
 justified in purchasing coal heaters. It would not be wise to recommend 
 any particular make of heater in this book. In general, the reservoir 
 type of oil heater is the most satisfactory. One can scarcely afford 
 to purchase heaters and other equipment for the work and then fail 
 because of an insufficient supply of oil. Of course, it is possible to 
 refill small heaters, or to have a reserve supply of them on hand, but 
 such entails extra work and expense at time of heating when it is often 
 hard to get enough help. 
 
 PLACEMENT OF HEATERS IN ORCHARD. 
 
 One heater for each tree is ordinarily used. These heaters are 
 commonly placed in the center of the rectangle formed by four trees. 
 
 WHEN TO LIGHT. 
 
 Firing should begin before the temperature has reached the danger 
 point, the object being to keep it at a certain point rather than to let 
 it drop below and then try to raise it again. For example, it is much 
 easier to maintain a temperature of thirty-two degrees when the outside 
 temperature is twenty-five degrees than it is to raise it to thirty-two 
 degrees, after it has dropped down to twenty-five degrees. While fruit 
 buds or blossoms may stand this temperature for a short time, it is never 
 safe to let it get so cold. 
 
 KEEP FIRING WELL AFTER SUNRISE. 
 
 Many a crop of fruit has been lost because fuel played out, or because 
 men became tired or careless and let fires go down at daybreak. The 
 coldest period is very often about sunrise and the heaviest firing is neces- 
 sary at this time. 
 
 USE ONLY TESTED THERMOMETERS. 
 
 To depend upon a twenty-five cent thermometer in the orchard heat- 
 ing business, when thousands of dollars are at stake, is inexcusable fool- 
 ishness, and yet such has often been done. Nothing but reliable, tested 
 thermometers should be used in this important work. Several should be 
 used and placed in different parts of the orchard, as there may be quite 
 a temperature variation in a short distance. Electric alarms may be 
 used, but it is more satisfactory in actual practice to have reliable men 
 to watch the thermometers and record temperatures every few minutes 
 during the time of expected freeze. 
 
 SUCCESS MEANS HARD WORK. 
 
 Our present knowledge of frost fighting with orchard heaters is not 
 such that it can be recommended under all conditions. With the tem- 
 peratures that we usually have during the period of spring freezes in 
 California, it is safe to say that the man who is willing to observe all 
 the details, and who is not afraid of the hardest kind of work, will suc- 
 ceed. Not every man who has orchard heaters does, neither does every 
 man who sprays make a success of that operation. Orchard heating, if 
 ills done at all, should be done rightly, or else all labor and expense may 
 be thrown away. No one who is looking only for the easy jobs should 
 have anything to do with this work. 
 
AIMM.K <;ROWI\<; IN ( ' Al .1 K< >KN I A. 75 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 SPRAYING THE APPLE. 
 
 \Yhether it is generally believed or not, it is nevertheless true that 
 MI exceedingly heavy loss in apples cadi season could be largely pre- 
 vented by proper spraying, and \\hile there are many orehardUts who 
 spray intelligent ly and who <M results, there are others who spray 
 with little or no knowledge of the diseases or insect pests of their trees, 
 and little mr.re of the sprays that they are using. The first thing that 
 the apple grower should do, if he would make the greatest success of 
 his business, is to familiarize himself with these pests and diseases. 
 It may seem to him that this is the work of an expert and he should 
 not be expected to know anything about it. There is no question but 
 that the expert's advice and help should be solicited, but after all every 
 one must know his own orchard, and with the help of such expert 
 advice as he may be able to get, and through reading, it should be pos- 
 sible to learn everything that need be known about the insects and 
 diseases, so that intelligent methods may be used for their control. 
 
 There are too many apple growers spraying for codling moth, not 
 even knowing where the eggs of the adult insect are laid or what they 
 look like ; there is too much spraying for the control of the various 
 species of plant lice without a thorough knowledge of their life habits ; 
 and the same thing holds true in relation to apple scab, mildew and 
 other affections of the orchard. To illustrate, I have talked with 
 seemingly intelligent growers who thought that the arsenate of lead 
 applied for the control of codling moth would kill the eggs. Such 
 ignorance as this is, of course, not met with as a rule among our fruit 
 u rowers, for it may be said to their great credit that there are no more 
 intelligent people to be found in any other line of work; but one can 
 Mot conceive of such lack of knowledge in regard to a pest upon which 
 volumes have been written and with which every field expert in an apple 
 section is familiar. 
 
 The writer is not a believer in promiscuous hit or miss spraying, done 
 usually because some one else is doing likewise, or because some one said 
 that the trees needed treatment, without any knowledge of what was 
 on them The time to spray an apple orchard is when there is some- 
 tin IILT on the trees that can be controlled by the spray. It is all very 
 well to talk about preventive measures, but spraying an orchard for 
 woolly aphis with a nicotine solution, or with some other contact spray, 
 will do no good for the control of this pest, unless it is actually present. 
 There can be no preventive effect in this case and yet we often hear 
 people say: "Well. I had no pests on these trees but just sprayed to 
 pn-vent them from coming." Again, there could be no possible value 
 of an arsenical spray for codling moth unless the pest was actually 
 present in the orchard. There are isolated orchards of a considerable 
 age where this pest has never occurred, and it would be the merest 
 folly to attempt to prevent its coming by any spraying methods. There 
 are also young orchards in sections where codling moth is present that 
 may not be troubled for a few years, and there can be nothing accom- 
 plished in spraying them until the moth arrives. It is always a good 
 
76 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 thing to keep ahead of the various pests and spray before they become 
 too bad, but spraying costs money, so much that it is often done poorly 
 in an attempt to save material, and too much emphasis can not be 
 placed upon the necessity for orchardists acquiring sufficient knowledge 
 of the various pests and diseases, so that they may know when spraying 
 need not be done, or when it must be done in order to best protect the 
 trees or crops. Because of the lack of knowledge in this work many 
 have advocated a certain course of spraying to be given each season 
 regardless of condition of the orchard or its previous record with 
 respect to the pests. There may be sections where such a course can 
 be outlined and followed out to advantage, but orchards differ as do 
 individuals or groups of individuals, and what one requires may be 
 absolutely unnecessary for another, so after all the owner must study 
 his orchard and learn to know for himself what is best for it. 
 
 Failure to control the various pests of the orchard when certain of 
 them are present and when the right kind of an insecticide or fungi- 
 cide is used, is more often due to lack of thoroughness in the applica- 
 tion than to everything else. The writer has heard orchardists, time 
 and again, condemn certain sprays as being poor when they themselves 
 were to blame for the poor results attained. At one time an orchardist 
 had sprayed some young apple trees with Black Leaf "40,"- 1-1000 
 for the control of the green aphis and when he got through the trees 
 were still badly infested. He immediately complained that the material 
 used w r as not good. An investigation of the orchard showed that quite a 
 large percentage of the aphids had been killed but that there were 
 &till enough left so that without further spraying nothing of value 
 would have been accomplished. For the purpose of a demonstration a 
 few trees were re-sprayed with a drenching rather than a light appli- 
 cation. In this case practically one hundred per cent of the lice were 
 killed, proving that the spray was good but that the methods of appli- 
 cation were faulty. When we stop to think that in cases of this kind 
 the time and material is often thrown aw r ay, whereas a little more care 
 and a little greater thoroughness, although it will cost more, will bring 
 results, there is little excuse for hasty, careless work. While it is 
 possibly not a good thing to advocate as a general practice, it is usually 
 better, from a financial standpoint, to spray one half of an orchard 
 very thoroughly than to spray the whole thing for possibly the same 
 cost and slight the work. In the first case a good crop of apples may 
 be harvested from half the orchard, while in the second the loss may 
 be total. 
 
 A few years ago the writer sprayed a part of a very old apple orchard 
 in southern Maryland, which had not received a spray for a long time, 
 and possibly never. The apples for years past had dropped from fung- 
 ous and codling moth attack. In this case probably not over one third 
 of the orchard was sprayed, by the use of a barrel pump and an ox 
 team, but for the first time in years it produced salable fruit which 
 sold for a big price, but only the sprayed trees had good fruit. This 
 was a most striking example of the possibility of protecting even a 
 small part of an orchard by heavy spraying. When negligent orchard 
 owners can be made to see the value of heavy spraying by starting 
 in first on a small portion of the orchard for economy's sake, such work 
 will often lead to the same kind of spraying over large areas. 
 
APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. < < 
 
 Thoroughness in spraying implies good spraying machinery and 
 equipment. The day of the barrel pump is practically over as far as 
 the commercial orehardist is Concerned, and tin- man who owns five 
 acres of apples needs a power sprayer. For a smaller acreage the 
 barrel or tank pumps may still be used, but only by exercising the 
 greatest of rare can they be made to do the work as thoroughly and as 
 effectively as the power outfit. Our modern power sprayers have 
 revolutionized the spraying business and have made it possible to 
 handle a much greater acreage during the period when spraying can 
 be most effectively done, and if any criticism is to be made of these 
 machines it would be that the high degree of efficiency which they 
 possess is sometimes depended upon too much and the men, trusting to 
 the machine to do it all, become careless. While it is true that with 
 tlie hiirh pressure which it is possible to attain trees may be very 
 quickly sprayed, there is a tendency to hurry too much and the work 
 is slighted. 
 
 Most of our power sprayers will maintain a pressure of two hun- 
 dred pounds with ease, while with the old fashioned barrel pump or 
 the later tank pump eighty to one hundred pounds was considered 
 good. Thorough work may be done with this lower pressure, but the 
 time required and the care necessary are greatly increased. It is, 
 however, advantageous to have the higher pressure in the case of con- 
 trol work for most of the insects of the apple. 
 
 There are many good types of spraying machines on the market and 
 individual likes will determine which is to be purchased. A machine 
 should b- equipped with two long lines of hose, at least fifty feet each, 
 and rods at least eight feet in length. The long hose will enable one 
 t around trees handily and the long rods will greatly facilitate the 
 work of spraying. Of utmost importance in the equipment are good 
 nozzles \n machine can be expected to do the best work without them. 
 
 THE PIPING SYSTEM FOR SPRAYING. 
 
 The gn-at Miccess of the piping system used by a few California 
 orchard u rowers indicates the possibility of this latest method of dis- 
 tributing and applying the sprays to our trees coming into general 
 use. Under this system the portable tank with attached pump and 
 gasoline engine is done away with and instead there is installed, at a 
 convenient place in the orchard, stationary mixing tanks for the spray 
 material and a system of pumps which forces the spray under pressure 
 throu.irh leads of half inch galvanized iron pipes buried at a convenient 
 depth and convenient intervals throughout the orchard. Standpipes 
 for the attachment of the hose are connected to the underground 
 tern at such distances apart as are necessary. The initial cost of such a 
 system is, of course, considerable, and not every orchardist can afford 
 its installation. The great saving in time and labor during the work 
 of spraying, the ability t spray an orchard when the ground is wet, 
 and the possibility of so much more effective work, make the system 
 one to be recommended. 
 
 Instead of the pipes beinir placed permanently below ground as in 
 the Hay ward Reed system. n<ed in his pear orchard near Sacramento, 
 a modification of this system may he used. At Watsonville the latter 
 may he .-en in operation and consists of suitable lengths of pipe which 
 at the time of sprayinir an- laid on the surface of the ground between 
 
78 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 the orchard rows and the liquid spray is pumped through them under 
 a high pressure from a central pumping plant located at a well which 
 furnishes the water supply. This system is said to work satisfactorily. 
 
 It is the firm belief of the writer that the future will see a great 
 many of our better orchards sprayed by the piping system. The gaso- 
 line pow r er outfit, while we must recognize it as being an effective 
 piece of machinery, has its drawbacks and its limitations. An engine 
 mounted on a truck pulled over rough ground and often drenched with 
 caustic sprays can not be kept in the very best working order and often 
 the fluctuation in pressure is responsible for variable results in spray- 
 ing. With the piping system engines and pumps can be protected in 
 the best possible manner, spray materials can be much more conven- 
 iently handled, and a great deal of the present dread of spraying may 
 be removed. The spraying of large apple trees is not any easy matter 
 and requires so much material that one power sprayer is often inade- 
 quate to handle more than twenty-five acres, where sprajdng must of 
 necessity be done quickly to get the desired results. For instance, 
 the calyx spray for codling moth must be done during a period of 
 little more than a week, if complete calyx control be assured. In a 
 twenty-five acre apple orchard, with seventy trees to the acre, there 
 would be seventeen hundred and fifty trees. If they are large, a two 
 hundred gallon tank will not thoroughly spray over fourteen trees ; 
 that is, one hundred and twenty-five tanks of spray would be required 
 for such a twenty-five acre orchard. It is considered to be a good day 's 
 work to put on ten tanks of spray, so twelve and one half days at this 
 rate would be required to spray twenty-five acres. It is with a full 
 realization of being disputed and possibly ridiculed for these figures 
 that they are published, but it is only asked that a careful investigation 
 of the many failures to get results in spraying be carefully made by 
 those who would disbelieve them, and a full assurance of their approxi- 
 mate correctness is undoubted. 
 
 Before closing this chapter on spraying, a few words, treating of 
 the importance of the "man behind the gun" should not be omitted, 
 for the very best equipment may be of little value with careless, irre- 
 sponsible men entrusted with the work of spraying. The most impor- 
 tant men in a spraying crew are those who hold the rods and direct the 
 spray upon the trees. Their sight must be keen, they must be active 
 and alert, and they can not be thinking of other things continually 
 and do a good job of spraying, for this usually means the thorough 
 wetting of every portion of a tree; and how easy it is to slight the 
 work just enough to defeat the object of the spray. Men who hold 
 spray rods should be gifted with enough intelligence, at least, so that 
 they could be made to know that upon the manner in which they do 
 their work will depend the success or failure of the spraying operation. 
 
 Recently while watching some Chinamen spray an orchard for the 
 control of codling moth, it was noticed that they had no conception 
 of thoroughness and apparently no realization of the important part 
 they were playing in the work. Upon trying to explain to them that 
 the work should be more thoroughly done they seemed quite indignant 
 that any one from the outside should attempt to show them anything. 
 If this important job must be entrusted to the poorest amonii 1 unskilled 
 laborers, their instructions should at least be so complete that the work 
 niiirht not suffer. 
 
APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 79 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 INSECT PESTS OF THE APPLE. 
 
 CODLING MOTH. 
 
 AN failure to control the codling moth means failure to make a 
 financial success of the apple business, a full discussion of this most 
 serious of all apple pests seems necessary in a work of this nature. 
 
 The annual loss in fruit from this pest is tremendous and could we 
 secure accurate figures they would be startling. Practically every apple 
 umwer has at some time or other paid it toll in apples destroyed, and 
 others have allowed their crops to go year after year without making 
 any effort to save them. Despite the fact that it is so common and so 
 destructive a pest, it is one that is largely under our control and any 
 oivhardist who is willing to use brains in fighting it is going to meet 
 with success. It is true, however, that the codling moth sometimes gets 
 so bad in a locality that one or two seasons of most careful and heavy 
 spraying are needed to reduce its numbers to a point where control will 
 be comparatively easy. Again, its control may in some cases be a com- 
 munity problem, where all must join in the fight if they would succeed 
 themselves or protect their neighbors. It is not known just how far the 
 moths will fly, but surely from an orchard on one side of a road to one 
 on the other. Thus one may have to fight harder because of the negli- 
 gence of a neighbor who fails to spray. 
 
 How the Pest Spends the Winter. 
 
 A knowledge of the wintering habits of an insect is sometimes a 
 valuable thing in connection with its control. In this case we have a 
 pest that winters in such a way that something, but not all, may be done 
 toward its control during the winter or dormant season. After the full 
 grown second brood larvae leave the apples in the fall or winter they 
 secrete themselves under the loose bark of trees in the orchard, in cracks 
 between boards in packing or storage houses, in fact almost anywhere 
 that they can find hiding places. As a majority of the wormy apples 
 usually fall to the ground before picking time, the worms in them that 
 may escape can readily reach trees where hiding places may be found. 
 \Yry frequently, however, they leave the apples while they are still 
 1] a Hiring to the trees, and crawl down the limbs and trunk until suitable 
 quarters are discovered. When such are found the larva? immediately 
 l><"_:in the construction of little cocoons of silk, which when completed 
 form a protection against the weather and enemies that might prey upon 
 Them. In this cocoon they remain as full grown apple worms or larvae 
 throughout the entire winter season, and never can they be found in 
 any other stage during this time. By scraping off the loose bark on 
 old trees, in particular, frequently large numbers of these hibernating 
 larva? may be destroyed. Such should always be done when an attempt 
 is being made to control the pest in an orchard or collection of orchards, 
 where spraying has been neglected until the codling moth has become so 
 abundant as to make spraying work more or less ineffective. 
 
80 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 The natural mortality due to weather conditions during the winter 
 time is sometimes great, but varies from season to season. The numbers 
 that survive until spring to develop into moths have an important bear- 
 ing on the ease or difficulty with which this insect may be controlled. 
 If a winter season is such that seventy-five per cent of the worms which 
 began hibernation in the fall transform, the females to lay eggs in the 
 spring, it would be expected that a much more serious condition would 
 result, providing no spraying were done, than if only ten per cent had 
 lived through. As the number of larvae that are present in the spring 
 will determine largely the number of applications of spray that are 
 necessary, and as a superabundance may mean the loss of a great many 
 apples, no matter how carefully the work of spraying is done, too much 
 attention cannot be paid to destroying the larvae during the winter 
 season, beneath bands put on trees as traps in the summer, and -in every 
 way possible to reduce their numbers to the minimum. 
 
 The Pupal Stage. 
 
 When the warm weather of spring comes on the larvae which have 
 survived the winter begin to pupate, and in the cocoons may be found 
 little brown, footless, quiescent creatures, not able to move about, and 
 .aside from a slight movement of the portion corresponding to the abdo- 
 men of the adult which will soon emerge, they are immobile. This stage 
 may last several weeks in the spring, but in the case of first brood 
 pupae it averages about two weeks. From this stage there develops the 
 mature winged moths, the females of which, after mating, begin egg 
 laying. 
 
 The Moth Stage. 
 
 No orchardist who grows apples can reasonably find any excuse for 
 not knowing the appearance of the codling moth, and yet there are those 
 who are apt to mistake almost any kind of a common cutworm moth for 
 this destructive species. A few mature larvae or pupae, collected and 
 put in a pasteboard box any time during the spring or summer season, 
 will develop into moths and the characteristic appearance may then be 
 noted. They are gray in color with distinct yellowish, almost gold 
 colored spots near the tips of fore wings and a wing expanse of not over 
 three fourths of an inch. The characteristic yellow markings make this 
 species readily distinguishable from practically all others, and yet we 
 find men who should know better, trapping moths by lights, mostly cut- 
 worm species, and claiming that they are destroying the codling moths. 
 
 The Egg Stage. 
 
 Contrary to the general opinion codling moth eggs are not hard to 
 find when one learns what they look like and where to look for them. 
 They are laid singly on the foliage or fruit, and rarely on the twigs. If 
 found on the former, in practically every case they will be found on the 
 upper or smooth surface of a leaf and almost always close to an apple 
 or cluster of apples. The moths seem to possess an instinct which 
 prompts them to lay these eggs where the little worms, upon hatching 
 from them, will have little trouble in locating some of their food the 
 fruit, In shape the eggs are almost circular and very flat, adhering 
 closely to the surface of a leaf, or apple. The diameter is about that 
 of the head of an ordinary pin. On the surface there is more or less 
 
APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 81 
 
 of a wrinkled or roughened appearance. The color at first is creamy 
 white. In a few days three or four a reddish ring may be plainly 
 seen within the shell. This rin_r marks the position of the embryonic 
 larva developing within. Before hatching, which normally takes place 
 about the seventh day, there may be seen a black spot near one side of 
 the egg. This spot is simply the black head of the little worm within 
 and indicates that hatchini: time has arrived. The thin white shells of 
 hatched eggs may cling to leaves or fruit for some time and can be seen 
 in any orchard where codling moth is at all bad, during the summer 
 season. 
 
 Control. 
 
 A very large per cent of the first brood larva begin feeding in the 
 <-alyx end of the apple, the number varying somewhat with seasons, 
 locality and variety, and estimated by scientific workers to be from 
 seventy-five to ninety-five per cent of the total brood. In the case of 
 the second brood quite a large percentage also enters the calyx, but as 
 the fruit is large when they come on there is a better chance for the 
 little worms to enter elsewhere, and quite a good many bore into the 
 fruit through the stem cavity or somewhere on the side. This fact, 
 coupled with the important one bearing on it, that sprays must be 
 applied to coat the entire surfaces of the apples, makes it of the utmost 
 importance to devote every energy toward killing practically the entire 
 first brood, so that the second as a consequence must be small. 
 
 The fact that so great a percentage of the first brood of worms seeks 
 the calyx as soon as hatched has resulted in the standard method of 
 control for this pest, viz : a heavy spraying with some arsenical insecti- 
 cide when the petals are practically all off and before the calyx lobes 
 have dosed. 
 
 Spray to Use. 
 
 The most satisfactory and widely used arsenical spray for codling 
 moth is arsenate of lead. It is made in both the paste and powdered 
 form, the first mentioned being used more generally than the second. 
 Other arsenicals that may be substituted for the arsenate of lead are 
 arsenite of zinc and Paris green. The arsenite of zinc is a good poison, 
 but has not given general satisfaction because of its liability to burn 
 fruit and foliage. It is. however, used considerably for the first or calyx 
 sprayinir. as little damage seems to result from its application at this 
 time. Later applications are dangerous. Paris green, when substituted 
 for these others, should be applied with milk of lime in small quantities, 
 to prevent burning. 
 
 Strength of Spray. 
 
 A is. nate of lead in the paste form should contain from 12 to 17 per 
 cent arsenic oxide. Three or four pounds of this paste to 100 gallons of 
 \\atcr is of sufficient strength to kill the larvae. It is probably a good 
 plan to increase the strength somewhat for the later sprajdngs, applied 
 for the purpose of coating the fruit. The powdered form of lead 
 arsenate contains about double the amount of arsenic oxide per pound, 
 hence only one half as much is necessary for a given amount of water. 
 The same is true of zinc arsenite. Paris green should be used at the 
 strength of one and one half pounds to 200 gallons of water, with the 
 addition of about ten pounds of strained milk of lime. 
 
82 
 
 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 The strength of spray to use as given in this publication is less than 
 the manufacturers of arsenicals usually recommend. It has been proven 
 by careful experiments that the amount given is ample and special 
 emphasis should be laid upon the necessity of putting the spray where 
 it belongs. It matters not how strong a spray is used, it can do no good 
 unless it is placed where the worms will feed upon it. Time and 
 again in the writer's experience have orchardists been known to condemn 
 the spray as faulty, when they themselves were to blame because of 
 their careless methods of application. 
 
 How to Apply Spray. 
 
 It seems almost superfluous to say anything about how to apply a 
 spray, but after all there is much to learn before the beginner can become 
 expert. The tendency is always to use too little spray, thus slighting the 
 work. In making the application for codling moth, thoroughness is the 
 keynote to success and anything that will bring it about is desirable. 
 
 Fig. 48. Apples on the left just right to spray; calyces are too nearly closed on 
 apples shown on right for the most effective work. (After Quaintance) 
 
 Only the most careful help should be engaged, and men should be 
 trained to do the work so that, when a tree is finished, they know that 
 they have sprayed it from every angle. This necessitates walking 
 entirely around a tree. Spraying that is done from one side only 
 cannot be thorough and is of little real value. There is a tendency for 
 sprayers to hold the nozzle too close to the limbs and, as a consequence, 
 the tips are very often missed. While a tree must be sprayed on the 
 inside, it must not be neglected on the outside, and by holding the 
 nozzle two or three feet back from the extremities of the longest 
 branches, as the tree is encircled during spraying, there can be little of 
 the surface missed. In all spraying work for coddling moth the appa- 
 ratus should be of the best. Long rods with forty-five degree angles on 
 the tips, and a driving spray with high pressure, will greatly facilitate 
 the work. 
 
 First Spraying. 
 
 There are few orchardists who have had experience in spraying for 
 the control of this troublesome insect the country over, who will discount 
 the value of the calyx spray. This must be applied before the calyx 
 
APPLE GROWING IN ( 'AI.I K< >R.\IA. 83 
 
 cii])s close and fortunately there is a period of a week or more with 
 most varieties of apples, after the blossoms fall, when the e;ilyees are 
 open, and a few rare cases where they never close tight. Varieties, soil 
 and climatie conditions bring about this variation. Knowing that a large 
 percentage of the first brood worms enter by way of the calyx, and that 
 very one that escapes being killed by the first spray and develops into 
 a moth of the second brood which if a female may lay seventy-five 
 eggs to hatch into second brood worms we cannot be too careful in mak- 
 ing the first application. The aim should be to fill every calyx cup with 
 the liquid, which, upon evaporating, will leave a deposit of insoluble 
 arsenic to remain in and protect the apple throughout the entire season. 
 Kv.-ry sprayer should test the efficiency of his work by examining 
 trees, after he thinks they have been well sprayed, and see if there are 
 any calyces that are dry and have not been touched by the spray. If 
 this is done one will soon realize how exceedingly hard it is to fill every 
 cup. As many of the blossoms point upward, spraying from a tower is 
 often practiced and is a decided advantage when trees are large. 
 
 As varieties of apples differ as to the time of blooming, there is fre- 
 quently trouble experienced in getting the spray on trees of certain 
 kinds at the proper time. This trouble is greatly exaggerated in our 
 older orchards, where many varieties have been planted and where there 
 may be great differences in their blooming habits. It is not serious in 
 orchards of large blocks of a few varieties, for those that bloom first can 
 be sprayed first and the others will probably be in good condition imme- 
 diately afterwards. Climatic conditions are sometimes such that the 
 blossoms of a given variety do not come out evenly. Where such is the 
 case a double application should be made for the calyx in order that the 
 greatest efficiency may result. If this repeat spray is found to be 
 necessary it should be applied from a week to ten days after the first 
 or regular calyx spray, when the majority of the blossoms have fallen. 
 
 Second Spraying. 
 
 Already two sprayings have been mentioned, but in actual practice 
 the second calyx application is not usually found to be necessary. The 
 regular second application, which it is never safe to omit if codling moth 
 is at all hard to control, should be made about three weeks after the 
 first. At this time there may still be a few of the calyces open, and it 
 will have some value as a calyx spray. Its chief value lies in the fact 
 that it is applied at a time when the worms are beginning their work, 
 and many may be killed on the sides of little apples which will, at this 
 time, receive a coating of the arsenical. 
 
 Third Spraying. 
 
 A third application two weeks after the second is often desirable to 
 supplement the work of the latter. The little apples grow very rapidly 
 when they once become set, and difficulty is experienced in keeping a 
 protecting coat of spray over a large part of the surface. As the apples 
 grow, the individual particles of arsenate of lead become correspond- 
 ingly farther apart and the worms have a better chance to gain 
 entrance. The third regular application will be put on at a time when 
 the hatching of first brood worms is about at its maximum; hence it 
 is a very desirable spray during seasons of an abundance of codling 
 moth. 
 
84 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 Fourth Spraying. 
 
 Generally speaking, three sprays are sufficient to control the codling 
 moth, provided that they have been rightly timed and thoroughly 
 applied. The writer has known of many cases, however, of serious in- 
 festation where this spray and another following could be made to pay. 
 They are only necessary when the pest becomes overly abundant because 
 of previous seasons' neglect. -When applied, this spray should be put 
 on about fifty days after the second regular application. The latter 
 was put on about the time when the first brood of eggs were beginning 
 to hatch, and as the second will begin approximately fifty days from 
 this time, or in other words, as it takes the insect seven weeks to undergo 
 all its transformations in a brood, the spray is timed to the hatching of 
 
 the first of the second brood. 
 
 _ 
 
 Fifth Spraying. 
 
 This application is simply to supplement the fourth and should be 
 applied about two weeks later. Its use will insure a better coating of 
 lead arsenate on the apples and thus bring about greater efficiency in 
 killing worms. 
 
 ; 
 
 Other Control Measures. 
 
 Generally speaking, careful attention to spraying will bring about 
 complete control of codling moth. Conditions may become such through 
 neglect or otherwise, that something else must be done to reduce the 
 numbers of the pest sufficiently for effective spraying. To illustrate, the 
 writer once sprayed an orchard where codling moth was so abundant 
 that one tree left without spraying had only seventeen per cent of the 
 fruit sound at picking time. Five sprayings in this orchard, all heavily 
 and carefully done, were necessary, but even after all this spraying a 
 considerable percentage of the apples were actually wormy, or were 
 specked where worms had attempted to eat in and were killed. In such 
 cases as this, cloth bands of burlap or other material, placed about the 
 trunks of the trees about June first and removed, and all worms under- 
 neath killed every ten days until apples are picked, would result in such 
 a reduction of the worms that the second brood would be less trouble- 
 some and fewer worms would go into winter quarters. Burlap bands 
 should be of three thicknesses, about five inches wide, and may be held 
 in place with thumb tacks. 
 
 Removal of rough bark on old trunks is always desirable, as many 
 larva? hibernate underneath. 
 
 Packing-houses frequently serve as harboring places for worms, which 
 crawl from apples brought, in for packing or storage. These may find 
 cracks between boards, boxes or rubbish of any kind in which to spin 
 cocoons and pass the winter. Screening of such houses to prevent the 
 exit of moths in the spring is sometimes desirable. 
 
 APHIDS AFFECTING THE APPLE. 
 The Woolly Aphis of the Apple. 
 
 (Eriosoma lanigera.) 
 
 This very common and destructive pest is so well known to every 
 apple grower that it hardly seems necessary to go into details regarding 
 it. Not only is it common, but it is also one of our hardest pests to 
 
APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 85 
 
 control. Its name is derived from the fact that the purplish body 
 of the adult louse is covered with a wool-like, waxy excretion. When 
 once an orchard becomes badly infested it is only with extreme difficulty 
 that this insect may be checked in its ravages. 
 
 The woolly aphis works both above and below ground. The damage 
 to the roots consists in a roughening or knotting of the surface, with 
 the result of more or less decay and destruction of fibrous roots in bad 
 cases. The winter season is spent by the lice both on the branches and 
 trunks above ground and on the roots below the surface. During the 
 summer months a migration is taking place from roots to branches and 
 vice versa, throughout the time of active feeding, with usually a more 
 general migration in the early spring and late fall. One winged gen- 
 t-ration develops during a season, and this in the fall. These winged 
 lice are all viviparous females and give birth to sexual males and 
 females, the latter of which each deposits a single large egg. It is now 
 thought that migration takes place from the apple to the elm, and that 
 the eggs are deposited on the latter, 5 as the eggs cannot be found on the 
 apple trees, though search has been made for them there time and again. 
 
 Control. 
 
 When damaging trees above ground this aphis, like others of its kind, 
 may be readily killed by a spray of Black Leaf "40" and soap, using 
 the former at the strength of one gallon to 1000 gallons of water and 
 about 5 pounds of soap to 100 gallons of water. They are not at all 
 hard to kill with this mixture when it comes in direct contact with their 
 bodies. In order to make it do so a high pressure and a driving spray is 
 necessary. In small orchards we have known this pest to have been kept 
 in check, in the early spring, by the application of coal oil by means of a 
 brush, to colonies located in cracks, knot holes, etc., as they colonized 
 after migrating from the roots. 
 
 rnderground treatment has been on the whole unsatisfactory. In the 
 case of small trees, tobacco dust or a spray of Black Leaf "40" and 
 soap to the bared roots may be quite effective. For larger trees the treat- 
 incut is not practical, as the aphids follow the roots to their extremities, 
 especially if they are shallow. 
 
 Deep rooting of apple trees is desirable, because of the tendency of 
 this pest to attack the shallow roots most severely, as well as for other 
 good reasons. 
 
 Resistant Varieties. 
 
 Some varieties of trees possess more or less resistance to the attack of 
 \\oollv aphis. The Northern Spy probably is more nearty immune than 
 any other variety and for that reason the roots are very often used for 
 propagating purposes. 
 
 Natural Enemies. 
 
 Lacewing flies, syrphid flies, and ladybird beetles frequently keep this 
 pest in check. There is no more effective predaceous enemy in this 
 case than the lacewings, and exceedingly had infestations over large 
 areas have been seen destroyed in a couple of weeks time by them. A 
 little internal parasite, aphelinus mali, is sometimes a considerable factor 
 in its control. 
 
 'See Bui. 217, Maine Exp. Sta. Edith M. Patch. 
 
86 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 The Green Apple Aphis. 
 
 (Aphis pomi.) 
 
 The little shiny black, oblong eggs on the new growth of apple twigs 
 during the winter season, have been seen by practically every apple 
 orchardist. These are the eggs of the green apple aphis, laid there by 
 a small green plant louse in the fall. As the buds begin to open in the 
 spring these eggs hatch and the little dark green colored lice immediately 
 begin feeding upon the new growth. These first spring lice, which 
 hatched from the overwintering- eggs, are known as stem-mothers. 
 When they become mature after a couple of weeks of feeding they give 
 birth to living young of a second generation. These in turn do likewise, 
 and a number of generations are developed throughout the season. 
 Many individuals after the second generation develop wings, and thus 
 may fly about from tree to tree and orchard to orchard, spreading the 
 infestation. In the fall true males and females are developed. These 
 are wingless and may be distinguished from the agamic forms by their 
 color, which is yellow instead of dark green. The females deposit the 
 eggs previously described. Their injury is done principally to the 
 leaves, although in bad cases the fruit and even tender twigs may be 
 attacked. The sap is sucked from the parts upon which feeding takes 
 place. A curling of the leaves is a good sign of the presence of this in- 
 sect. Ants feed abundantly upon the excrement or honeydew, and are 
 always present in annoying numbers when infestation occurs. Pear, 
 quince and hawthorn are subject to attack, as well as the apple. 
 
 A thorough spraying with Black Leaf "40" and soap, at the strength 
 recommended for woolly aphis, or distillate or oil emulsion in the spring 
 when eggs are hatching, is effective. Any of these sprays may be used 
 later in the season to advantage. Lime sulphur, 1 part to 10 parts of 
 water, is supposed to possess some virtue as a dormant spray for the eggs. 
 Observations made in Colorado by the Avriter did not justify its use, 
 except when it was put on just as the eggs were beginning to hatch 
 early in the spring. If applied before hatching time it may have some 
 virtue, but results attained have been variable. 
 
 The Purple Apple Aphis. 
 
 (Aphis sorbi.) 
 
 This is without doubt the most serious aphid pest of the apple, as far 
 as their effect upon the fruit is concerned. Like the green apple aphis, 
 they spend the winter in the form of small black eggs on apple trees, 
 which hatch very early in the spring. Almost before the buds have 
 begun to swell perceptibly, the little blackish colored lice may be seen 
 hanging on the outside waiting for them to open. Feeding begins imme- 
 diately upon the bursting of the buds. After about three weeks' time 
 these stem-mothers have become mature and reproduction without egg- 
 laying begins. 
 
 The second generation is purplish in color, the lice being covered with 
 a powdery secretion. Feeding takes place very generally on the leaves, 
 close to the clusters of young apples, and more rarely on the apples 
 themselves, which are injured to such an extent that they become stunted 
 and not only fail to mature, but are distorted so badly that the variety 
 may not be recognizable. 
 
APPLE GROWING IX CALIFORNIA. 87 
 
 During the month of June, according to O. E. Bremner, wings are 
 developed and a migration takes place from the apple to some interme- 
 diate host, which has not yet been discovered. The writer has observed 
 this habit of the louse in Colorado, and H. F. Wilson reports that a 
 similar migration takes place in Oregon. Mr. Bremner, who has done 
 more work <>n this species in California than any one else, states that 
 he has found the aphis on careless weed (Amaranhis retroflexus) , but 
 does not ivfx.rt having found it colonizing or feeding upon this plant. 
 
 In the fall winged lice return to the apple and produce sexual forms, 
 the females of which lay eggs for the perpetuation of the species. 
 
 Control. 
 
 The very early hatching of the eggs makes it necessary that a spring 
 tivatiiit-nt for this pest be made accordingly. The writer has found 
 hatched lice of this species in February in Colorado, and there are no 
 doubt seasons in California when just as early hatching would take 
 place. Professor Wilson reports finding them in Oregon as early as 
 February 22d. in 1912. The stem-mothers become quite resistant to 
 contact sprays as they approach maturity; also, because of the protec- 
 tion of foliage at this time, spraying is often done with very poor suc- 
 cess. The ideal time to spray is just as the eggs are through hatching, 
 and while no date can be set, the time will conform closely to that of the 
 swelling of the buds. Such work should not be neglected until the 
 blossoms begin to appear, as this is too late for the best results. 
 
 Professor Wilson recommends an early spring treatment with a combi- 
 nation of lime sulphur and Black Leaf "40." Mr. Bremner has had 
 splendid success with fall treatments when the sexual forms of the lice 
 are present, using a crude oil emulsion formula which is made as follows : 
 
 "Place 88 gallons of water in the spray tank and add 1 to 2 
 gallons liquid soap, depending on the softness of the water used, 
 diluted with about an equal amount of water. Agitate until 
 thoroughly mixed and then with the agitator running add 10 gal- 
 lons of crude oil." 
 
 A second formula recommended by Mr. Bremner follows : 
 
 ' ' Dissolve 10 pounds of whale oil soap in not less than 10 gallons 
 of water by boiling ; slice the soap and it will dissolve more quickly. 
 Place this in the spray tank, which should contain about 10 gallons 
 of water. Thoroughly agitate and add enough water to make 90 
 irallons. then add 2 pounds of caustic soda (concentrated lye), dis- 
 solved in water. With the agitator running add 10 gallons of crude 
 oil slowly." 
 
 Either formula is said to be effective and spraying should be done 
 about November 25th in the Sebastopol section, where Mr. Bremner did 
 
 his work. 
 
 Other Species of Apple Plant Lice. 
 
 The three species already treated are the only ones of any importance 
 that have been taken on apple in California. Occassionally other species 
 are found in limited numbers. C. P. Gillette and E. P. Taylor, in 
 Bui. 133 of the Colorado Experiment Station, and H. F. Wilson in the 
 Biennial Crop Pest and Horticultural R IM>I-I. 1911-1912, of the Oregon 
 
88 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 Agricultural College and Experiment Station, mention the European 
 grain aphis (Aphis avence) and the clover aphis (Aphis bakeri) as being 
 of more or less importance. These species are not commonly found on 
 apple in California. The melon aphis (Aphis gossypii) and the sweet 
 clover aphis (Aphis medicaginis) are occassionally taken on apple, but 
 are never serious. 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS APPLE PESTS. 
 
 Apple Tree Leaf -Hopper. 
 
 (Empoasca mali.) 
 
 Infested leaves appear more or less mottled with whitish markings, 
 similar to those injured by mites. An examination of such leaves will 
 disclose the fact that little white bodied, sucking insects are feeding 
 underneath. These hatch from eggs laid in the bark of young growth. 
 Wings are developed during the season and upon the slightest disturb- 
 ance to the trees the insects take flight, and when infestation is bad 
 swarms of them may be seen in the air. 
 
 A spray of Black Leaf "40," 1 to 1000 and soap, to kill the larvae, is 
 effective. Essig recommends whale oil soap, 1 pound to 8 gallons, or 
 oil emulsions. 
 
 San Jose Scale. 
 
 (Aspidiotus perniciosus.) 
 
 This scale insect is more commonly found than any other on apple 
 trees in California. It is very easily recognized, because of the fact that 
 it causes small red spots to appear on the bark and fruit wherever it 
 attaches itself. The scale covering varies from gray in the larger speci- 
 mens to sooty black in the smaller. Underneath these scale coverings 
 may be seen the little yellow bodies of the insects themselves, which live 
 by sucking sap from the bark through their little beaks by which they 
 are attached to the twigs. The pest winters in different stages of 
 growth. It may be controlled by a spray of either lime-sulphur or an 
 oil emulsion during the dormant season. 
 
 Oyster Shell Scale. 
 
 (Lepidosaphes ulmi.) 
 
 This scale was so named because of the fact that the covering is shaped 
 somewhat like an oyster shell. During the winter season an examination 
 will disclose the fact that there are a great number of little white eggs 
 underneath the scale coverings. These hatch in the early spring, the 
 little scales immediately attaching themselves either to the foliage or 
 bark, where feeding begins. Lime-sulphur is recommended as a spray 
 during the dormant season to control this insect. It is also readily held 
 in check by means of oil emulsion sprays, just as the eggs are hatching 
 in the spring. 
 
 The Scurfy Scale. 
 
 ( Chionaspis furfura. ) 
 
 This species may be distinguished by the dirty white scale coverings 
 on the bark. Underneath thee may be seen the purple bodies of the 
 insects, or eggs of the same color. 
 
 Dormant sprays of either lime-sulphur or oil emulsions are used with 
 success. 
 
APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 89 
 
 Apple Tree Leaf Roller. 
 (Archips argyrospila.) 
 
 In The Monthly Bulletin, Vol. II, No. 9, of the State Commission of 
 Horticulture, the author published an illustrated article on this pest, 
 telling of its habits and occurrence in the state. The adult is a yellow 
 moth about the size of the codling moth, with white markings. Eggs 
 are laid in oval shaped masses, each containing from ten to one hundred 
 and fifty eggs, on the limbs and trunk in July. These hatch in the 
 spring as buds are opening and the little whitish larva? immediately 
 begin feeding and, if plentiful, serious destruction of blossoms and 
 defoliation of trees may result. 
 
 AY hen full grown or about three fourths inch in length the larvae 
 pupate, mostly in the rolled leaves, though frequently elsewhere. 
 
 Complete control may be brought about by an early spring applica- 
 tion of either a miscible oil spray or crude oil emulsion to kill the eggs. 
 
 Apple Tree Tent Caterpillars. 
 (Malacosoma disstria and MaJacosoma americana.) 
 
 The former is the common species in California. Both may be 
 recognized by the large web tents which are made where the colonies 
 feed, after hatching from eggs which were deposited by the moths on 
 the twigs the previous fall. These eggs are laid in masses encircling 
 the twigs and are easily recognized from those of other pests because 
 of this fact. Feeding usually takes place by the hairy caterpillars in 
 quite definite areas within and surrounding the tents. 
 
 Control measures consist in removal of the egg masses when trees are 
 being pruned in the dormant season, destruction of the web tents with 
 the larva? enclosed in the early 'morning or late in the evening, and 
 arsenical sprays. Where spraying is done to control codling moth 
 tliis pest is also satisfactorily controlled. 
 
 Tussock Moth. 
 (Hemerocampa vetusta.) 
 
 Considerable injury is sometimes done to young apples by tussock 
 moth larvae, and mature fruits are often seen in the packing-houses 
 which show the scars due to this early injury. 
 
 Like the canker worm moths, the females of this species are wingless. 
 The winter season is spent on the trees in the egg stage, in masses 
 protected by the ooeoons from which the female moths emerged. 
 
 The larvae are quite resistant to an arsenate of lead spray, but 
 arsenite of zinc is said to be somewhat more effective. Sticky bands 
 are often used about the trunks of the trees to keep larvae, which are 
 shaken to the ground by jarring, from crawling back. 
 
 Spring and Fall Canker Worms. 
 (Paleacrita vernata and Alsophila pometaria.) 
 
 These two >prcirs of moths are very similar in appearance, both 
 being wingless and depositing their eggs on almost any portion of the 
 tree after crawling up the trunk. The larvae are some of the so-called 
 nn'iisurinu: w< rms. the spring species having cnly two pairs of prolegs 
 while the fall species has three. Otherwise they are very similar. 
 There is only one generation of each durinir the season. The spring 
 
90 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 species winters over in the pupal stage in the soil while the fall species 
 spends the winter on the trees in the egg stage. The fact that the 
 female moths are wingless and can not fly into the trees makes it pos- 
 sible to control this pest perfectly by means of a band of some sticky 
 preparation applied to the trunks. Arsenate of lead as used for the 
 codling moth is of some value in controlling it. Black Leaf "40" at 
 the strength of 1 part to 1000 parts of water has also been successfully 
 used for both the spring and fall species. 
 
 The Red-Humped Caterpillar. 
 
 ( Schizura concinna. ) 
 
 The f oilage of the apple is frequently attacked by communistic cater- 
 pillars, with red heads and large red humps on the first segment of the 
 abdomen. Many prominent black spines along with this peculiar hump 
 render the species very conspicuous. The adult is a brownish moth, 
 which lays its eggs on the leaves. The winter is spent in the pupal 
 stage in the ground. 
 
 Control measures consist of picking the caterpillars from the trees 
 and spraying with arsenate of lead. 
 
 Climbing Cutworms. 
 
 Quite frequently in the early spring, buds of young apple trees are 
 hollowed out by some species of climbing cutworm, of which there are 
 several. This trouble is usually worse on sandy soil than on any other 
 kind. Damage from this pest may be eliminated by means of cotton 
 batting bands tied about the trees, over which the worms are unable 
 to crawl. The method of using a cotton batting band is as follows: 
 Take a band of the batting about three inches wide, and of sufficient 
 length to go around the tree. After placing about the trunk, tie it 
 near the bottom with a piece of twine, pulling the top portion down- 
 ward, thus forming a collar which the worms do not penetrate. During 
 the day time they may often be found in the soil near the crowns of 
 the trees. 
 
 Flat- Headed Apple-Tree Borer. 
 
 (Chrysobothris femorata.) 
 
 Sun scalded or otherwise injured trees are liable to attack from this 
 borer. The adult is a flat metallic colored beetle, which lays its eggs 
 on the trees. Upon hatching from these eggs the footless larvae, with 
 body widened in front and tapering to the posterior extremity, feed 
 in the sapwood, often completely girdling a tree. Quite frequently 
 burrowing into the heartwood takes place. 
 
 There is no practical means of control. Preventive measures con- 
 sist entirely of keeping trees in a thrifty growing condition. 
 
 The Brown Mite. 
 
 (Bryobia pratensis.) 
 
 While there are other mites that occasionally feed on apple foliage, 
 this species is the one most commonly found. The little red eggs are 
 deposited in the crotches and frequently about the buds of trees during 
 the fall or late summer season. These remain unhatched throughout 
 the winter. In the early spring, as the foliage begins to come out, the 
 eggs hatch and the little mites, which are red at first, begin feeding 
 
APPI.K (JRoWIXi; IX CALIFORNIA. 91 
 
 almost immediately. At this time they have only six legs, the fourth 
 pair being developed as soon as they moult for the first time, and the 
 color lum^s from red to greenish. There are several generations 
 iliirinir tin- summer season, but usually the mites do not become abund- 
 ant enough t< seriously damage the apple trees. 
 
 Lime-sulphur, applied at the strength of 1 part to 10 parts of water, 
 during the dormant season, just before the buds begin to swell, is an 
 ert'ertive remedy. Either atomic or milled sulphur, during the summer 
 season while feeding is going on, is also valuable in controlling it. 
 Sulphur in any form is a good mite remedy as a general rule. 
 
 Blister Mite. 
 (Eriophyes pyri.) 
 
 While this is primarily a pear pest it is sometimes found injuring 
 apple foliage, also, to a considerable extent. It may be recognized by the 
 blister-like patches on the surface of the leaves. The winter season 
 is spent under the bud scales of both apple and pear. In the early 
 spring the mites leave their hibernating quarters, the females deposit- 
 ing eggs in the leaves, from which hatch the tiny larva?, which im- 
 mediately begin feeding and produce the characteristic appearance 
 already mentioned. This pest may be controlled by an application of 
 lime-sulphur just as the buds are beginning to open in the early spring. 
 
92 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 DISEASES OF THE APPLE. 
 
 BLIGHT. 
 
 (Bacillus amylovorus) 
 
 This disease affects some varieties of the apple as badly as it does 
 the pear, and when trees in an orchard become affected the same reme- 
 dial measures must be applied as in the case of the latter, viz, pruning 
 out all diseased wood in roots, trunks and branches, being sure to cut 
 well below where any signs of the disease are noticed; and carefully 
 disinfecting all tools and cut surfaces with corrosive sublimate solution, 
 1 to 1000, after every cut. 
 
 OAK ROOT FUNGUS. 
 
 (Armillaria mellea.) 
 
 Quite frequently apple trees are found rotted in the roots and at 
 the crown by this serious disease. The writer has in mind one orchard 
 visited early last spring, where tree after tree was diseased with this 
 fungus. Oaks had been growing on the land previous to the time of 
 apple tree planting and the stumps were still standing throughout the 
 orchard in many places. Surrounding these stumps a number of trees 
 were frequently found to be affected and great masses of toadstools, the 
 fruiting bodies of the fungus, were growing about the stumps and 
 apple trees. There is no cure known for this disease. 
 
 APPLE SCAB. 
 
 ( Venturia incequaUs. ) 
 
 The very destructive and commonly distributed disease known as 
 apple scab is familiar to practically every apple grower, and during 
 certain seasons a heavy loss is sustained from it, if nothing in the way 
 of spraying is done to control the fungus. 
 
 It has a preference for certain varieties, others being more or less 
 resistant. The Yellow Newtown is one of the most susceptible to attack, 
 and spraying of orchards consisting of this variety should never be 
 neglected in sections where scab is prevalent. The Esopus is also very 
 susceptible in California, as well as many other varieties that might be 
 mentioned. Locality, of course, has considerable influence upon this 
 trouble, and in general the high altitude orchards in California suffer 
 most. 
 
 Fig. 49 illustrates the appearance of this disease as it occurs on the 
 fruit, the well defined, grayish scabby patches, more or less roughened 
 where the skin has been broken through, being characteristic of the 
 advanced stage of the disease. 
 
 This disease is due to a fungous organism which winters on the tree 
 and on fallen foliage. The plowing under of the leaves, before the 
 spores have a chance to get into the trees in the spring, is one of the 
 important things in connection with its control. 
 
APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 93 
 
 Spraying with some good fungicide must not be neglected. An early 
 spring application of lime-sulphur at the dormant strength, or of 
 Bordeaux mixture, applied as the buds are swelling, should be made. 
 This should be followed by later applications, which may be combined 
 with the arsenical sprays for codling moth, being careful that com- 
 patible mixtures are used. Either Bordeaux mixture or lime-sulphur 
 with neutral arsenate of lead, according to Geo. P. Gray of the State 
 University of California, may be safely used, or Bordeaux with either 
 the acid or neutral arsenate of lead. Zinc arsenite should not be used 
 with either Bordeaux or lime-sulphur. 
 
 FIG. 49. Rhode Island Greening affected with apple scab. (Original) 
 
 CROWN GALL. 
 
 (Bacterium tumefaciens. ) 
 
 This is a very common disease of the apple, often found on nursery 
 trees, and sometimes becoming so abundant that great numbers of them 
 have to be destroyed. Trees with this disease, if planted in the orchard, 
 may live for years, but are usually stunted and never develop into the 
 best type of trees. 
 
 The cause of this affection is known to be a bacterium, which often 
 enters through a wound, thus starting the disease, which manifests itself 
 in swellings or galls. These occur on the crowns of trees, as well as the 
 roots, at some distance from the crowns, and are very rarely seen above 
 the ground. 
 
 There is no cure for crown gall, but preventive measures, such as 
 inspection and destruction of all affected nursery trees, may keep it out 
 of the orchard. 
 
94 
 
 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 POWDERY MILDEW OF THE APPLE. 
 
 (Podospha'ra leucotricha and P. oxycantha.'.) 
 
 The above disease and scab are the two worst fungous troubles of the 
 apple that occur in California. Mildew attacks the leaves and tender 
 twigs and is recognized by a whitish powdery appearance of the twigs, 
 
 Fig. 50. Apple twig affected with mildew, showing 
 (After R. E. and Elizabeth H. { 
 
 ' characteristic appearance. 
 Imith) 
 
 both in the summer and winter seasons. There is also more or less 
 curling of the leaves. According to Bulletin No. 120, recently published 
 by W. S. Ballard of the Bureau of Plant Industry and W. H. Volck, 
 
APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 95 
 
 County Commissioner of Santa Cruz County, the winter is spent both 
 in dormant buds and as spores in black patches on the twigs. The 
 disease may be started in the spring from the fungus in the dormant 
 buds or from these black patches on the twigs, the former being the 
 common source of infestation in the Pajaro Valley. The climatic condi- 
 tions of that section are said to favor very greatly the development of 
 the disease. At high altitudes, wherever apples are grown, serious infes- 
 tations have been found. Here again moisture conditions are such as 
 to aggravate the trouble. The authors of the previously mentioned bul- 
 letin recommend finely divided sulphur in some form as the very best 
 mildew fungicide. Ordinary flowers of sulphur is not fine enough for 
 good results. The following instructions and formula are copied from 
 their bulletin and this formula has given general satisfaction wherever 
 it has been tested out : 
 
 Preparation of the Iron-Sulphid Mixture. 
 
 The following directions are for the preparation of sufficient stock iron-sulphid 
 mixture to make 500 gallons of spray : Fill a 50-gallon barrel about two thirds full 
 of water. Weigh out 10 pounds of iron sulphate (copperas), place in a 'sack, and 
 suspend in the water. The iron sulphate will dissolve fairly rapidly, and when it is 
 all in solution measure out carefully 2 gallons of commercial lime-sulphur solution 
 testing 33 Baume", or 2 gallons and 3 pints of a lime-sulphur solution testing 32 
 liaium''. Slowly pour all but 2 pints of the lime-sulphur solution into the iron- 
 sulphate solution in the barrel, stirring the mixture vigorously with a hoe or shovel. 
 The addition of the lime-sulphur solution will produce a bulky, black precipitate, and 
 when all but 2 pints of the lime-sulphur solution has been added the mixture should 
 be allowed to stand for a few minutes, when the black precipitate will begin to settle 
 and a little of the clear liquid at the top can be carefully dipped out with a clean 
 glass or cup. This clear liquid will probably show no yellow lime-sulphur color, 
 which means that an excess of lime-sulphur solution has not yet been added. In 
 other woids, there is still some iron sulphate in solution, in which case the addition 
 of a drop of lime-sulphur solution to the clear liquid in the glass will produce a black 
 precipitate. This means that more lime-sulphur solution should be added to the stock 
 in the barrel, and about half of the remaining 2 pints should now be poured in and 
 the contents of the barrel stirred vigorously and allowed to stand. Some of the 
 clear liquid should again be dipped off and tested as before, to determine whether an 
 '.v.-ss of lime-sulphur solution has been added. If necessary, the addition of small 
 quantities of lime-sulphur solution should be continued until some of the clear liquid 
 dipped from the top, after the contents of the barrel have been well stirred and 
 allowed to settle, shows a pale yellowish lime-sulphur tint. The purpose of using 
 n slight excess of the lime-sulphur solution is to insure all the iron sulphate being 
 utilized. The voluminous black precipitate that is formed consists of iron sulphid. 
 precipitated sulphur, and calcium sulphate. After a slight excess of lime-sulphur 
 solution has been added, the barrel should be filled with water and the contents stirred 
 thoroughly and allowed to stand for several hours. The black iron-sulphid mixture 
 will settle into the lower half or third of the barrel, and the clear liquid should be 
 P'.iu-f'd off by carefully and gradually tipping the barrel, without allowing any of the 
 f.iack precipitate to run out. The barrel should again be filled with water, the 
 contents thoroughly stirred and allowed to stand several hours, and the clear liquid 
 poured off as before. This operation of washing the precipitate should be repeated 
 until the water poured off no longer shows the yellow lime-sulphur tinge. Probably 
 three or more such washings will be required, depending upon how careful the operator 
 has been in using only a slight excess of lime-sulphur solution. 
 
 It is evident that the preparation of this stock supply should be commenced two or 
 three days before the spraying is to be done, but when once prepared it may be kept 
 indefinitely. If care is used in weighing out each lot of iron sulphate and if the 
 lime-sulphur solution used is accurately measured there will be no trouble in making 
 
96 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 up the stock supplies rapidly after the first two or three batches have been prepared, 
 and it will be remembered that each batch is sufficient for making 500 gallons of 
 spray mixture. In order to keep a supply of the stock mixture on hand, several 
 britches should be prepared before the spraying commences, and as rapidly as a barrel 
 is emptied the preparation of a new batch should be started. Iron sulphate is com- 
 paratively cheap, and the entire cost of materials for preparing 100 gallons of the 
 mildew spray, when diluted according to the recommendations given in this bulletin, 
 should not exceed 15 or 20 cents. 
 
 When the washing has been completed, the stock barrel should be filled with water 
 to exactly 50 gallons. The material is now ready for use as directed under "General 
 formula for the spray mixture," but care should be taken to stir the contents of the 
 barrel thoroughly each time before any of the mixture is taken out. 
 
 General Formula for the Spray Mixture. 
 
 Stock iron-sulphid mixture 20 gallons 
 
 Arsenicals and nicotine solution to te added as required. 
 Water, to make 200 gallons 
 
 When arsenicals and a nicotine solution are to be used in conjunction with the 
 ii-on-sulphid mixture, the combined spray may be prepared by first running about 150 
 or 160 gallons of water into the spray tank. The agitator is then started and the 
 20 gallons of stock iron-sulphid mixture is poured in, after which the nicotine solution 
 and the arsenicals may be added in the usual way. Sufficient water should then be 
 added to make 200 gallons. 
 
 This same strength of iron-sulphid mixture, namely, 20 gallons in 200 gallons of 
 spray, is to be used in all the mildew applications. It will be seen that the 20 gallons 
 of stock mixture used in each 200 gallons of spray contains the product from 4 
 pounds of iron sulphate. 
 
 There are other products besides iron-sulphid which contain sulphur 
 in a very finely divided form that can be used just as effectively in the 
 control of mildew. The California Spray Chemical Company at Wat- 
 son ville is supplying a form known as ' ' Milled Sulphur, ' ' and both the 
 General Chemical Company and Balfour, Guthrie & Co., of San Fran- 
 cisco, sell another product under the trade name of ' * Atomic Sulphur. ' ' 
 No doubt there are still other forms that could be used to good advan- 
 tage, the essential qualifications being the finely divided state of the 
 sulphur, as has already been indicated. 
 
 As is true with most diseases of this nature, a thrifty, strong growing 
 tree is apt to resist attacks to a greater or less extent. Consequently, it 
 is very desirable that everything be done toward keeping orchards in the 
 best possible condition. Thus fertilization may be a great benefit, and 
 Ballard and Volck recommend spraying during the early spring with a 
 crude oil emulsion, which has a tendency to stimulate growth. Pruning 
 is an important means of checking this disease. All infested twigs which 
 are noticed during the time of pruning, either in the dormant or sum- 
 mer season, should be cut from the trees. 
 
APPLE GROWING IX CALIFORNIA. 
 
 97 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 PICKING, GRADING AND PACKING. 
 
 PICKING. 
 
 The knowledge that has been acquired in regard to the various organ- 
 isms which produce decay in fruits, and that many gain entrance only 
 where the skin is broken by bruising or where a worm has entered. has 
 resulted in much greater care being taken, when picking apples, than 
 formerly. How well c;m we all remember the time when the apples high 
 up in the trees were shaken to the ground or knocked down with a pole 
 regardless of the injury done to them in falling. It is now known that 
 only the sound apples will keep well when packed, and even slight 
 bruises will act as starting points for decay and the ruination of the 
 fruit. As a consequence, picking is done with the greatest care by the 
 
 Fig. 51. A good type of picking bucket. (Original) 
 
 better orchardists and the handling of the fruit is done as carefully as 
 though one were handling er<rs. As far as possible all stems should 
 remain intact after fruit is picked. 
 
 When pulled from the tre.-s the apples should be carefully placed 
 in the picking bar. Can-less dropping of the fruit into the bags may 
 result in many bruises, and arain when emptying from the bag into a 
 l>ox. eare should be exercised so that they an- not allowed to drop too far. 
 The type of picking bucket shown in Fig. 51 has a canvas bottom which 
 opens when bein<r unhooked at the side, and the apples are emptied 
 
 7 13683 
 
98 
 
 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 into the box without danger of bruising, provided that the picking- 
 vessel is not held too high when opened. There are a number of good 
 picking bags made somewhat like the one shown in the picture, any 
 of which will give good service, providing that they are used by careful 
 pickers. Common buckets of small size are sometimes used and are 
 quite satisfactory, but are not so conveniently emptied as vessels with 
 the collapsible bottoms. 
 
 GRADING. 
 
 The grading of apples is usually done in the packing-houses. Fig. 52 
 shows boxes of apples in house awaiting this work, which is sometimes 
 
 Fig. 52. Boxes of fruit in the packing-house ready for grading. 
 
 C. B. Weeks) 
 
 (Photo by 
 
 done by means of mechanical graders, of which there are a number of 
 different types on the market. Some of these are said to be very satis- 
 factory, while others are apt to bruise the fruit more or less, thus bring- 
 ing about decay prematurely. Ordinarily such work is done by hand. 
 The beginner is given a board in which holes of different sizes, repre- 
 senting the diameters of the apples that are used in the different styles of 
 pack, are made. These are used simply to train the eye to the various 
 sizes, and are not necessary after one has been doing the work for a 
 short time. All cull apples are removed during the process of grading ; 
 that is, such as are stemless, contain worms, worm holes, bruises, limb 
 scars, etc. When mechanical graders are used, all blemished fruit must 
 be picked out by hand, either before or after it has been put through 
 the grader. 
 
APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 99 
 
 PACKING. 
 
 \Vh;ii we might term the evolution of the apple pack has been very 
 ma rked in the past quarter century. We can all remember the time when 
 no attempt was made at grading, small apples and big apples being put 
 into the same package, usually the former on the bottom; indeed, some- 
 times no attempt was made to keep varieties separate and several kinds 
 were placed in the sack, box or barrel and sold together. The West, with 
 its cooperative marketing organizations, has undoubtedly done more 
 toward developing a uniform pack and establishing a fancy trade than 
 the rest of the United States. The East, until very recent years, has 
 insisted on putting apples in barrels and, while standardization of the 
 barivl pack could be accomplished as well as of the box pack, the East has 
 been slower in evolving along these lines, and has of recent years been 
 copvini: after the West, until now apples are often packed in boxes and 
 market inu agencies with their standardized packs are competing with 
 our western organizations. 
 
 The boxes that are being used at the present time are variable in 
 size. California uses a box that is 9J by 11 by 22 inches; Oregon and 
 Colorado have boxes of the following dimensions, respectively: 10 by 
 
 RBest 
 
 Apples 
 
 Kit*. 53. Yellow Bellflowers, illustrating 3, 4 and 4J tier packs. (Original) 
 
 11 by 18 inches and 11^ by 11 J by 18 inches. A bill, designed to create 
 a standard size and pack, was introduced into the session of Congress 
 just closed by Judge J. S. Raker, but failed to pass. With California 
 using one sized box principally, Oregon another and Colorado still an- 
 other, it is found to be a difficult matter to agree on a standard, but as 
 standardization in the matter of packages for all fruits is becoming 
 necessary for uniformly good sales, the time will come, no doubt, when 
 the West will agree on a certain sized I MIX to be used and marked as 
 standard. 
 
 In the Watsonville section of California, where a splendid pack on the 
 whole is made, there are three packs known as 3J, 4 and 4| tier, with the 
 4 tier as the standard, or average size, which is most desirable to the 
 trade in general. This size varies from 2-f inches as a minimum to 3J 
 inches as a maximum. The 3 tier size contains apples over 3J inches in 
 lia meter, and the 4.1 smaller apples than 2$. These rules are for their 
 standard varieties: Yellow Newtown and Yellow Bellflower. 
 
 In the case of the 3| and 4 tier apples, the fruit is always wrapped by 
 the packers. This practice is one of tremendous value and should be 
 
100 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 followed by every section where apples are produced commercially. 
 Surh wrapping not only facilitates the work of packing, but enables 
 one to put up a much firmer pack and one less subject to bruising in 
 boxing and during transportation than could otherwise be possible. The 
 keeping qualities of the fruit are no doubt enhanced to a marked degree. 
 Tasteful designs or trade marks may be placed on these wrappers, as 
 well as the name of grower and locality, thus adding greatly to the 
 attractiveness of the pack. 
 
 Fig. 53 shows three boxes of excellent Yellow Bellflowers grown and 
 packed by Rodgers Bros, of Watsonville. This picture illustrates nicely 
 the diagonal pack and shows the three sizes, viz : 3^, 4 and 4^ tier. 
 
 The pack, \vhen made, should be so firm that each apple is held fast 
 by another, and none have any room for play. When covered and 
 
 Fig. 54. A well packed box of apples with a top bulge of I inch. (Original) 
 
 nailed there should be a bulge of at least !| inch on the top and a slightly 
 lesser amount on the bottom. (See Fig. 54.) 
 
 Tasty lithographed labels of various designs are used on the ends of 
 boxes, and such should result in the best kind of advertising for the 
 grow r er. When the trade learns a label and knows that the man who 
 uses it always exercises the greatest care in packing his fruit, it may be 
 the means of securing for him a good market. On the other hand, 
 such labels may have the opposite tendency and work injury to the 
 man who persists in packing undesirable fruit and misrepresenting il 
 by the label. 
 
 Special Packages. 
 
 While practically all of the fancy California apples are wrapped and 
 packed in two sized boxes, viz: the California box and the Oregon box, 
 there is a certain limited demand, at least, for a smaller package, such 
 
APPLE GRONVINt; ! N. f'ALIFOKNlA. 
 
 101 
 
 MS ;i person cmild easily carry away from a grocery store. Recognizing 
 this demand, Mr. J. F. Benton of Arcata has been packing apples in 
 cartons which hold just one third of a box. Figs. -V> and 56 show one 
 of his special carti us packed and ready ti> seal, and the other sealed. 
 It i> pr.l>ahle that large growers close to market would not he justified 
 
 
 I-'ii:. ',:.. ('arton used by J. F. Bt-nton of Arcata. which holds one third of a box 
 
 of apples. 
 
 in making such a pack, but on the other hand the grower with a small 
 orchard, located at a distance from market, might be able to secure a 
 limited fancy trade by packing only the very finest apples in such 
 packages as these. Mr. Benton secures his own market and deserves 
 
 success in his new venture. 
 
102 
 
 APPLE GROWING IX CALIFORNIA. 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 BY-PRODUCTS. 
 
 No matter how carefully an orchard may be sprayed and cared for 
 in general, there is always a considerable loss of fruit because of wind- 
 falls, undersized apples, limb bruises, sunburn, etc. Such fruit is not fit 
 to pack and while sometimes the temptation is very strong to put it in 
 boxes and market it, yet the prices received are seldom such as to justify 
 
 Fig. 56. The same carton as shown in Fig. 
 
 after it has been sealed. 
 
 the practice. The utilization of all such fruit which, if boxed, brings 
 nothing, and if left in the orchard ordinarily goes to waste, is one of our 
 important problems. 
 
 There are many by-products of the apple for which great demand 
 could be created. Some of these are jelly, cider, vinegar, apple butter, 
 dried apples, etc. The drying business has reached quite extensive pro- 
 portions in the Pajaro Valley. 
 
 As an assistant judge at the California Apple Show held at Wat- 
 sonville in 1913. the writer had the pleasure of helping with the 
 awarding of the first premium for feature exhibits to Mrs. Hugh 
 
APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA, 
 
 103 
 
 M-< iowan. who had constructed with jelly glasses, all full of pure apple 
 jelly of different shades of coloring, a building which was an exact 
 reproduction of the great Watsonville auditorium where the show was 
 held. The dimensions of this auditorium made of jelly were as follows : 
 length, 15J feet: width, 10 feet; height, about 4 feet* 
 
 This season such a building was constructed at the California Apple 
 Show held in San Francisco and was again recognized by the judges 
 by being awarded third premium for feature exhibits. Fig. 57 shows 
 this excellent exhibit. Mrs. McGowan certainly deserves much credit 
 and the thanks of the community in which she lives for her energy 
 in making such a tremendous quantity of jelly and in putting up such 
 an exhibit as the one mentioned. It is hard to foresee what the develop- 
 ment of this one industry may mean to the Watsonville section. This 
 is just an illustration of the great possibilities that there are for those 
 who will take advantage of them. 
 
 Recently while visiting some of the fruit orchards in the Julian section 
 of San Diego County which is not easily accessible the writer was 
 
 Fig. 57. Model of the Watsonville Auditorium made from glasses filled with pure 
 apple jelly. Exhibited by Mrs. Hugh McGowan at the Annual Apple Show in San 
 Francisco* 
 
 pleased to find an up to date plant, on the ranch belonging to S. A. 
 Walters, for the manufacture of apple butter, cider, vinegar and other 
 by-products. Mr. Walters has undoubtedly solved the problem of 
 netting good returns for his fruit. While it might be easy to overdo 
 the manufacture of some of these by-produets. yet it would seem that 
 there are great possibilities, particularly for orchardists who arc a long 
 way from market and who have no provision for storing their fruit. As 
 has already been mentioned, one of the chief reasons for manufacturing 
 by-products is that there is ordinarily a great waste of imperfect fruit. 
 Th- aim should always be to jrrow the best possible apples which may 
 be packed and sold, most seasons, to good advantage. There will, how- 
 ever, come seasons of low prices when even the very hest can be utilized 
 in the manufacture of such by-produets as s-em hest. and in this way 
 a good market will be insured. 
 
104 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII 
 
 PRODUCTION, CONSUMPTION AND RECIPES. 
 
 Statistics show that the acreage of apples has been greatly increased 
 in the past few years, which, of course, means a corresponding increase 
 in the production. The East is also awakening to the possibilities in 
 apple growing, and where thousands of acres of this fruit were destroyed 
 by San Jose scale not many years ago, new orchards are being set out 
 and the West must be prepared to meet this competition. 
 
 It has already been stated that the apple crop varies in size from 
 season to season, largely on account of killing spring frosts in different 
 parts of the country. This variation in size means a fluctuation in 
 prices, which range from very high in one season to very low in another. 
 During seasons of light crops the marketing problem solves itself, but 
 during seasons of very heavy crops there is always danger of prices being 
 so low as to make apple growing unprofitable. It is this fact that should 
 make us bend every effort toward increasing the consumption of apples, 
 in order to lessen the possibility of overproduction and consequent low 
 prices for our fruit. 
 
 We are abundantly justified in any campaign that may be carried on 
 with the aim of increasing consumption, because of the excellent food 
 value of the apple. Much has been done in the past few years to educate 
 the people along this line. The splendid apple shows that have been 
 held in different parts of the country have taken a leading part in this 
 work. In our own state the great California apple show which is 
 usually held annually at Watsonville, but this year at San Francisco 
 and the annual Sebastopol Gravenstein show, have advertised in an 
 emphatic way the value of the apple as food. Who could look at a tasty 
 jelly exhibit, such as Mrs. McGowan's, shown in Fig. 57, without having 
 a better taste created for apple jelly ? Or who could look at the splendid 
 exhibits of Gravensteins at the Sebastopol show (Fig. 58) without going 
 away feeling that he must buy a box of Gravensteins when he gets home ? 
 
 Our fruit journals have also done much toward increasing the con- 
 sumption of this, the best of all fruits. In 1912 the October number of 
 "Better Fruit," published at Hood River, Oregon, printed a list of 209 
 ways for cooking the apple. These recipes were gathered by L. Ger- 
 trude Mackay, of the domestic science department, Pullman, Washing- 
 ton. With the help of Mrs. Weldon 50 of these have been selected and 
 are here printed, in hopes that they may reach many housewives of Cali- 
 fornia, who will be encouraged to try them and cook more apples than 
 they otherwise would, thus aiding in the work of increasing the con- 
 sumption. 
 
<;KM\VI.\<; IN CAUKORNIA. 
 
 1 < i:> 
 
106 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 RECIPES. 
 
 1. Baked Apples. Peel and core tart apples ; fill the holes with shredded citron,, 
 raisins, sugar and a little lemon peel. Place in baking dish and pour over them one 
 
 half cup of water and dust with granulated sugar. Bake in a slow oven until per- 
 fectly tender and sprinkle with soft bread crumbs and sugar; bake for ten minutes 
 and serve hot with cream or pudding sauce. 
 
 2. Apple Fritters, English Style. Beat one egg, add a few grains of salt and one 
 fourth cup of milk ; cut out four rounds of bread from half inch slices of stale bread ; 
 set the bread into the milk and egg mixture and cook in deep fat. 
 
 Stew apples, pared and cored, in a few spoonfuls of syrup. Place an apple on 
 each round of bread and grate a little nutmeg over the top. Serve very hot. 
 
 3. Afterthought. One pint of nice apple sauce sweetened to taste : stir in the yolks 
 of two eggs well beaten. Bake for fifteen minutes. Cover with a meringue made of 
 two well beaten whites and one half cup of powdered sugar. Return to the oven and. 
 brown. 
 
 4. Apricot Sherbet Served in Apple Shells. Select bright red apples of uniform 
 size, rub until they have a high polish. Cut off the blossom end and scoop out the 
 pulp ; carefully notch the edge. Fill with apricot sherbet and serve upon apple loaves. 
 
 5. Apple Balls with a Mixture of Fruit. Peel large apples, with a potato scoop 
 cut out small balls, dropping them into water with a little vinegar added to keep them 
 white. Prepare a mixture of grapefruit pulp, pineapple and banana and put into 
 glasses ; add a few of the apple balls, pour over all the juice left from the fruit which 
 has been boiled down with sugar ; cool and serve at once or the apples may turn 
 brown. 
 
 6. Apple Balls Served in Symp. Prepare the apple balls as above : prepare a rich 
 sugar syrup ; color with a little pink color paste and drop in the balls, cook slowly 
 until the balls are softened, pile in glasses and add a little syrup to each glass. Serve- 
 cold. 
 
 7. Broicn Betty. Pare and chop six apples ; place a layer of apple in a well 
 buttered pudding dish, then a layer of bread crumbs, sprinkle with brown sugar and 
 cinnamon, repeat until the dish is full ; add several generous lumps of butter and 
 pour sweet milk or hot water on until it comes within an inch of the top of the pan. 
 Bake in a moderate oven until brown and serve with plain or whipped cream. 
 
 8. Apple Butter. Pare, core and quarter the desired quantity of apples, allowing 
 one third of sweet to two thirds of sour apples. Boil sweet cider until it is reduced 
 one half. While the cider is boiling rapidly add apples until the mixture is the desired 
 thickness. Cook slowly, stirring constantly and skimming when necessary. When the 
 apples begin to separate from the cider take two pounds of sugar to each bushel of 
 apples used ; add a little ground cinnamon and boil until it remains in a smooth mass, 
 when a little is cooled. Usually one and one half bushels of apples- are enough for 
 one and one half gallons of boiled cider. 
 
 9. Apple Biscuit. To one pint of light bread sponge add one quarter cup of 
 molasses, one teaspoonful of lard and graham or whole wheat flour for a soft dough. 
 Beat vigorously and finally work into the dough one large cup of chopped apple : 
 shape the dough into biscuit and pl:iro in muffin pans and allow them to be very light 
 before baking. 
 
 10. Dried Apple Butter. Wash one pound of dried or evaporated apples thor- 
 oughly, soak over night ; in the morning cook with plenty of water. When well done 
 rub through a sieve or colander ; add sugar and cinnamon to taste, the juice of one 
 lemon, juice of two oranges and butter the size of an egg. Cook slowly until it will 
 drop heavily from a spoon. 
 
APPLE GROWING JN CALIFORNIA. 107 
 
 1 1. .1 />/>/. x /;// r,/.v.s ( ,-olc. Pare, core and slice two quarts of apples and put in an 
 rarthen dish, alternately, with one and one half cups of sugar; add one fourth cup of 
 cold water, cover the dish and bake in a moderate oven. Serve either hot or cold 
 with cream. 
 
 1L'. .(i>i>l< charlotte. I. Soak one half a box of granulated gelatine in one half cup 
 of cold water for half an hour. Whip one pint of cream and set on ice ; add one half 
 cup of powdered sugar, a tablespoonful of lemon juice and two good sized apples, 
 grated. Dissolve the gelatine over hot water and strain into the mixture ; stir quickly 
 and pour into a mould. Set on ice to chill and serve. 
 
 13. Apple Gh<irlntt<\ II. Pare, core and slice apples; cook in butter until soft and 
 dry ; add sugar to taste. Line a plain mould with sippets of bread an inch wide, 
 dipped in melted butter ; let one overlap the other ; arrange lozenges of bread similarly 
 in the bottom of the mould. Fill the center with the apple and cover the top with 
 bread. Bake for half an hour in a hot oven. Serve with cream and sugar or a hot 
 sauce. 
 
 14. Plain Apple Charlotte. Soak one quarter of a box of granulated gelatine in 
 two tablespooufuls of cold water ; add to one pint of hot apple sauce, flavor and press 
 through a sieve. As soon as the mixture begins to harden stir in one pint of whipped 
 cream. Line a mould with ladyfingers, pour in the mixture and set away to cool. 
 
 15. Apple Cobbler. Pare and quarter enough tart apples to fill a baking dish 
 three fourths full. Cover with a rich baking powder biscuit dough made soft enough 
 to stir, spread it over the apples without rolling. Make several cuts in the center to 
 allow the steam to escape. Bake for three quarters of an hour and serve hot with 
 sugar and rich cream. 
 
 16. Coddled Apples. Take tart, ripe apples of uniform size ; remove the cores. 
 Place the fruit in the bottom of a porcelain kettle, spread thickly with sugar; cover 
 the bottom of the kettle with water and allow the apples to simmer until tender. 
 Pour the syrup over the apples and serve cold. 
 
 IT. Apple Conserve. For each pound of quartered and pared apples allow three 
 quarters of a pound of sugar and half a pint of water. Boil sugar and water until 
 a rich syrup is formed ; add the apples and simmer until clear. Take up carefully, 
 lay on plates and dry in the sun. Roll in sugar and pack in tin boxes lined with 
 waxed paper. 
 
 18. Compote of Apples. One pound of apples, one quarter pound of lump sugar, 
 one cup of water, the juice of half a lemon, a few drops of red coloring. Put the 
 sugar, water and lemon juice into a clean enameled sauce pan and let them boil 
 quickly for ten minutes. Meanwhile peel the apples, cut them in quarters and remove 
 the cores. Throw the pieces into the boiling syrup and let them cook slowly until 
 clear and tender, but not broken. Then remove the quarters of apples carefully, 
 reduce the syrup a little and color it pink with the red coloring. Arrange the apples 
 on a glass dish and pour the syrup over. A little cream or custard served with the 
 compote is a great improvement. If the apples are small they may be cored and 
 cooked whole. 
 
 19. Apple Compote and Orange Marmalade. Boil twelve tart apples in one quart 
 of water until tender, strain through a jelly bag; add one pound of granulated sugar 
 and let boil. While boiling add twelve apples, cored and pared. When the apples are 
 tender drain them carefully in a perforated skimmer. Boil the syrup until it jells ; 
 fill the apples with orange marmalade and pour the syrup over them. Serve with 
 whipped cream. 
 
108 APPLE GROWING IX CALIFORNIA. 
 
 20. Cralj .!/>/>/( Marmalade.- Wash and core crab apples and put them through the 
 meat chopper. Put into a preserving kettle and add water until it shows through 
 the top layer of apples. Cook until soft. Weigh and add an equal weight of sugar. 
 Cook until the mixture forms a jelly when cooled and pour into sterilized glasses. 
 Cover with paraffine. 
 
 21. Apple Custard. Beat the yolks of four eggs and add one half cup of sugar : 
 cook for one or two minutes and remove from the fire. Gradually add one pint of 
 grated apple. Pour into a serving dish and cover with a meringue made of the well 
 beaten whites of four eggs and three tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar. 
 
 22. Apple Cup Custard. Pare, core and steam four good sized tart apples until 
 tender ; press through a sieve. While hot add one tablespoonful of butter, four table- 
 spoonfuls of sugar, the yolks of four eggs and one half pint of milk. Turn into baking 
 cups and bake for twenty minutes. Beat the \vhites of four eggs until stiff, add four 
 tablespoonfuls of sugar, beat and heap over the top of the cups ; dust thickly with 
 powdered sugar and brown in the oven. Serve cold. 
 
 23. Apple Custards. Steam two large tart apples that have been peeled and cored. 
 Rub them through a sieve and add one cupful of milk, two teaspoonfuls of butter, one 
 quarter of a cupful of sugar and the yolks of four eggs. Turn the mixture into baking- 
 cups, stand them in hot water and bake about twenty minutes. When they come from 
 the oven pile the beaten white of egg on top of each cup, sprinkle with powdered 
 sugar and place in the oven to brown slightly. Serve cold. 
 
 24. Apple Croquettes. Pare, quarter and core enough tart apples to make a pint ; 
 place in a saucepan with one small tablespoonful of butter and, if the apples are not 
 juicy, a few tablespoonfuls of water. Cover and stew gently until tender, then press 
 through a sieve. Return to the fire and add sugar. Add one tablespoonful of corn- 
 starch and one quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, mix to a thin paste with cold water ; 
 stir until thickened, cover and cook slowly for fifteen minutes. Turn out on a greased 
 dish and set away until cold. Form into tiny croquettes, roll in bread crumbs, dip 
 in lightly beaten egg, then roll again in crumbs and fry in deep fat ; drain on unglazed 
 paper and serve with roast pork or roast goose. 
 
 25. Delmonico Apples. Put a layer of apple sauce in a buttered pudding dish, 
 sprinkle with ground almonds, dot with butter and sprinkle with crushed macaroons, 
 add a little water and bake. Delicious when served with meat. 
 
 26. Apple Delight. Put a layer of apple sauce in a buttered pudding dish, dot with 
 butter, add a layer of chopped peaches and apricots, sprinkle with blanched almonds, 
 ground rather coarsely ; repeat until pan is full ; pour the peach juice over the 
 mixture and bake for one hour. Serve as a relish with meat course. 
 
 27. East India Chutney (Apple). Pare and core twelve sour apples. Peel one 
 medium sized onion. Remove seeds and stems from three peppers, one of which 
 should be red. Chop apples, peppers, onion and one cup of raisins very fine ; add 
 the juice of four lemons, one pint of cider vinegar and half a cup of currant jelly ; 
 let simmer very gently for one hour, stirring frequently. Add one pint of cider 
 vinegar, two cups of sugar, one tablespoonful each of salt and ground ginger and 
 one fourth of a teaspoonful of cayenne ; cook for one hour more, stirring constantly. 
 Store as canned fruit. 
 
 28. Apple Farci. Choose tart red apples, Northern Spys if possible ; wash, wipe 
 and core. Do not pare. With the corer remove apple in three places, equally distant 
 from stem and blossom end, holding corer in oblique position and pressing downward 
 toward center. Fill these cavities with raisins, dates or figs, sugar, cinnamon. 
 Canned or fresh pineapple is delicious filling. Always use raisins, placing them in 
 the cavities first to prevent the other filling from slipping through. After filling 
 place the apples in a pan that has been sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon. Sprinkle 
 
APPLE GRO\YIN<; IN r A I.I FOR XI A. 109 
 
 :ich apple with su-.ir and cinnamon. Place in a hot oven until the suirar melts. 
 ih. 'ii add one fourth cup of water or fruit juice and bake until tender. l\-.\<\<- 
 frequently with thr syrup. Serve either hot or cold with whipped cream Crinkled 
 with cocoa. 
 
 _".. Ai>i>ii* Fricil irith Onions. Peel onions and slice. Fry in far until a rich 
 brown: drain on soft brown paper. Fry unpsuvd quarters of apple in the fat left 
 from ill.- onions. Arrange apples in a border on a platter. fill center with tin- fried 
 onions and serve them hot. 
 
 30. Fried Apples. Quarter and core five apples without paring. Put into a t'ryinir 
 pan and melt beef drippings: when hot lay a layer of apples in it. skin side 
 down, sprinkle with brown sugar, and when nearly done turn and brown: place on a 
 platter and sprinkle with sugar; set in hot oven and continue frying apples one layer 
 at a time. 
 
 .'M. .\i>i>l /'////' /v. I. Mix and sift one and one third cups of flour, two tea- 
 spoonfuls of baking powder and one fourth teaspoonful of salt. Add gradually, while 
 Mirrinir constantly, two thirds of a cup of milk and one egg well beaten. Wipe, core, 
 p.-ire and cut two medium sized sour apples into eighths, then slice the eighths and 
 stir into the batter. Drop by the spoonful into hot deep fat and fry until delicately 
 In-owned ; drain on brown paper and sprinkle with powdered sugar. 
 
 '.V2. .\/>]t/> FrittiTx, II. Pare and core four tart apples and cut in one fourth 
 inch slices across the apple. Sprinkle with two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice and 
 powdered sugar. Prepare a batter by sifting one cup of flour and one fourth tea- 
 spoonful of salt. Add two well beaten yolks to one half cup of milk : mix and beat 
 into the flour until smooth. Add one tablespoonful of melted butter or olive oil and 
 cut in the well beaten whites of two eggs. Drain the apples, dip into the batter and 
 fry in deep fat. When cooked drain on brown paper and sprinkle with powdered 
 sugar before serving. 
 
 33. Oxford Apples. Pare, core and quarter four large tart apples and boil in very 
 little water. Mash and add one tablespoonful of butter, half a cup of sugar, half a 
 cn.p of fine bread crumbs, the yolks of four eggs and the whites of two eggs beaten 
 liirht. Pour into a baking dish and cover with a meringue made of the whites of two 
 eggs and two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar and brown. 
 
 :U. . I /!//* irith ()(tt,ncaL Core apples, leaving large cavities, pare and cook in a 
 svrnp made by boiling one cup of sugar with one and one half cups of water for five 
 minutes. When the apples are soft drain and fill cavities with the hot. well cooked 
 meal and serve with cream and sugar. 
 
 3.~>. ffaunayc* unil i'ri'il \/>i>I<'#. Prick the sausages well with a fork. Place in a 
 deep frying pan, pour in enough boiling water to cover the bottom, cover and cook 
 over a moderate fire. When the water evaporates remove the -cover and turn several 
 times that they may be nicely browned. Turn on to a platter. Con- a number of 
 larire tart apples, cut them in rings an inch thick and fry in the sausage t'ai. <iarnish 
 the sausage with the apples and serve. 
 
 36. Apple Tapioca. Soak three fourths of a cup of tapioca in water for one hour 
 to cover, drain, add two and one half cups of boiling water and one half teaspoonful 
 ir; cook in double boiler until transparent. Core and pare apples, arrange in a 
 buttered baking dish, till cavities with suirar. pour tapioca over apples and bake in a 
 moderate oven until the apples are soft. Serve with snirar and cream or with cream 
 sauce. Sago may be used instead of tapioca. 
 
 CREAM S.\i < i Mix and beat until stiff three fourths of a cup of thick cream and 
 one fourth of a cup of milk, add one third of a cup of powdered sugar and one half 
 > aspoonful of vanilla. 
 
110 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 37. Apple Water Wipe, core and pare one large sour apple, put two teaspoonfuls 
 of sugar in the cavity ; bake until tender, mash, pour one cup of boiling water over 
 it and let stand one half hour and strain. This is especially refreshing for fever 
 patients. 
 
 38. Apple Christmas Pudding. Pare, core and quarter six tart apples. Add a cup 
 of water, cover and boil quickly for five minutes. Press through a sieve ; add a table- 
 spoonful of butter and a cup of sugar. Beat three eggs until light ; add one pint of 
 milk and a cup of hot boiled rice. Add the apples and bake for half an hour. Lemon 
 and orange rind may be added. Serve cold with cream or lemon sauce. 
 
 39. Apple Sauce Pudding. Cream one quarter cup of butter with one half cup of 
 brown sugar; add one beaten egg, two tablespoonfuls of milk, one half teaspoonful 
 of baking powder and enough flour to make a stiff batter. Bake in two layers, put 
 together/ while hot with apple sauce and serve with custard. 
 
 40. Apples Baked in Strawberry Jam. Core tart apples and place in a baking 
 dish ; fill the cavities with strawberry jam and bake until soft. Serve hot with cream. 
 
 
 
 41. English Apple Pie. Butter a shallow agate dish. Select one that is deeper 
 than a pie plate. Fill the dish with sliced apples, sprinkle with a cup of sugar, half 
 a teaspoonful of salt and a little nutmeg. Put over it two teaspoonfuls of butter in 
 bits ; add three tablespoonfuls of cold water. Cover with good paste and bake for 
 forty minutes. Serve with cream. 
 
 42. Pot Apple Pie. Peel and quarter eight nice tart apples (Greenings are the 
 best), and slice in strips about half a pound of fat salt pork and mix a nice light 
 biscuit dough. Then take an iron kettle and lay strips of the pork across the bottom 
 about half an inch apart, then lay on that loosely some of the quartered apples, then 
 sugar and cinnamon, then slice your biscuit dough in strips about the same as the 
 pork and crosswise, leaving about an inch between each strip. Repeat this operation 
 until you have used up your material, having the biscuit dough on top ; then pour 
 down the side of the kettle carefully a cup of boiling water, cover and cook slowly 
 for one hour and a half, adding boiling water when necessary. This is delicious 
 when served with whipped cream. 
 
 43. Apple Pie Decorated with Cream and Cheese. Make an apple pie after your 
 favorite recipe. Have ready a cream cheese, press through a ricer, cut and fold into 
 the cheese a cup of double cream beaten until solid ; add a few grains of salt. Put 
 this mixture through a pastry tube, in any pattern, on top of the pie. Serve as a 
 dessert at either luncheon or dinner. 
 
 44. Date and Apple Pie. Line a pie plate with a rather rich crust ; fill it with a 
 mixture of chopped dates and apples, sprinkle over half a cup of sugar and one tea- 
 spoonful of cinnamon; add two tablespoonfuls of water, cover with a top crust and 
 bake about one half hour in a moderate oven. 
 
 45. Apple Peanut Salad. Pare, core and chop slightly acid apples and mix them 
 with half as much chopped celery. Mix a dressing of peanut butter, using five table- 
 spoonfuls of lemon juice to one tablespoonful of peanut butter. Mix dressing through 
 the apples and celery and season with salt and cayenne pepper. Chill the salad and 
 serve on lettuce and garnish with peanuts. 
 
 46. Apple, Orange and Peach Salad. Equal parts of apples, peaches and oranges 
 are cut into cubes and mixed with cream dressing. Serve in apple shells or in the 
 rind of oranges. 
 
 47. Apple Chicken Salad. Take six ripe apples and scoop out the centers ; fill 
 them with cold cooked chicken, minced fine, seasoned with finely minced green peppers 
 and salt, with enough cream to moisten. Place apples in a steamer and cook until 
 almost tender. Put them on ice and serve with mayonnaise on lettuce. 
 
APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. Ill 
 
 48. .\i'i>l< Salad. Chop one half pound of cold veal or lean pork and two large 
 tart apples; add two chopped pickles, one tablespoonful of olive oil, one tablespoonful 
 ot vineirar. season with salt and pepper and mix with mayonnaise dressing. 
 
 49. .!/>/</' dud (.'ahlxtge Salad. Shave cabbage fine and soak for one hour in 
 celery water, made by adding one teaspoonful of celery salt to each quart of water. 
 Drain and dry on a soft towel. Add an equal amount of apple cut into match-like 
 pieces: mix with boiled dressing. 
 
 50. -I/'/'/' and Cheese Salad. Mix some chopped pecans with twice their bulk of 
 cream cheese, adding a little thick cream to blend the mixture. Season with pepper 
 and salt and make into tiny balls. Pare mellow, tart apples, core and slice across 
 the center into rings about one half inch thick, then arrange rings on lettuce leaves 
 iind place several cheese balls in the center. Serve with cream salad dressing. 
 
112 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 INSECTICIDES AND FUNGICIDES. 
 
 In spraying the apple for the control of the various insect pests and 
 fungous diseases that affect this fruit, there are many different formula* 
 used, the principal of which are given herewith, under the headings Con- 
 tact Insecticides, Poisonous Insecticides and Fungicides. 
 
 CONTACT INSECTICIDES. 
 
 Lime-sulphur ( commercial ) . 
 Lime-sulphur ( home-made ) . 
 Nicotine. 
 
 Kerosene emulsion. 
 Distillate emulsion. 
 Crude oil emulsion. 
 Whale oU soap. 
 
 POISONOUS INSECTICIDES. 
 
 Arsenate of lead. 
 Paris green. 
 Arsenite of zinc. 
 
 FUNGICIDES. 
 Bordeaux mixture. 
 Lime-sulphur ( commercial ) . 
 Lime-sulphur ( home-made ) . 
 Lime-sulphur ( self-boiled ) . 
 Tron-sulphid (see Apple Mildew). 
 Atomic and Milled sulphur. 
 
 SPRAY FORMUL/C. 
 Li me- Sulphur Commercial. 
 
 Practically every insecticide company manufactures lime-sulphur, 
 consequently there are a great many different brands on the market, 
 most of which are good. This material comes in liquid form and is 
 diluted with water, using 1 part of the liquid to 10 parts of water for a 
 dormant spray, and 1 to 35 for summer use on apples. 
 
 Li me -Sulphur Home-made. 
 
 Stone lime 40 pounds. 
 
 Sulphur 30 pounds. 
 
 Water . _ 100 gallons. 
 
 Preparation. Bring about 50 gallons of water to a boil in some 
 suitable vessel, or a sufficient amount for slaking the 40 pounds of lime. 
 Add the sulphur and mix as well as possible with the water. When the 
 water is hot put in the lime, which will slake almost instantly with the 
 generation of a great amounjt of heat. This is desirable, as it helps effect 
 a combination of the lime and sulphur at the start. The mixture should 
 
APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 113 
 
 now be boiled for at least 45 minutes. When finished it is a bright red 
 color, which often turns olive green upon further boiling. There is no 
 danger of boiling too long, but on the other hand too little boiling may 
 be responsible for a poor spray. 
 Lime-sulphur is one of our best insecticides, as well as fungicides. 
 
 Nicotine. 
 
 For the various plant lice which affect apples there is nothing better 
 to apply during the summer season than nicotine, in some form or other. 
 The most commonly used nicotine spray is Black Leaf "40," and it is 
 usually applied at the strength of 1 part of water to 1000 parts of the 
 nicotine solution. The addition of 5 pounds or more of soap to 100 
 gallons of the diluted spray adds to its efficiency. 
 
 Kerosene Emulsion. 
 
 Water 1 gallon. 
 
 Kerosene 2 gallons. 
 
 Hard soap 1 pound. 
 
 Preparation. Bring the gallon of water to a boil and dissolve the 
 soap in it ; while hot add the kerosene, agitating the mixture violently 
 for fifteen minutes or more. A cream-like emulsion should be formed, 
 which will mix readily with cold water. A stock solution, containing 
 66f per cent oil, is obtained by this process, and may be diluted to any 
 desired strength. 
 
 H. F. Wilson, of the Oregon Agricultural College, gives a simple 
 method for determining the strength to be used, which is as follows: 
 Divide 200 by the per cent desired, and subtract 3 ; this will give the 
 amount of water necessary to add to each 3 gallons of stock solution for 
 the desired per cent. Example: A 15 per cent solution is desired; 200 
 divided by 15 equals 13^, minus 3 equals 10; this amount of water 
 added to 3 gallons of stock solution will give the 15 per cent emulsion, 
 
 -Distillate Emulsion. 
 
 Distillate (28 Baume") 20 gallons. 
 
 Whale oil soap 30 pounds. 
 
 Water to mix 12 gallons. 
 
 Preparation. Dissolve the whale oil soap in the water, heat in <; it to 
 the boiling point; add the distillate and agitate thoroughly while the 
 solution is hot. For use add from 10 to 20 gallons of water to each 
 gallon of the above mixture. 
 
 Crude Oil Emulsion. 
 
 Water 175 gallons. 
 
 Liquid soap j. 3 gallons. 
 
 t'nide oil 25 gallons. 
 
 Preparation. Fill the spray tank with the 17.") Callous of water 1 : add 
 the liquid soaj>: airitate thoroughly for one minute, after which add the 
 crude oil. continuing the agitation. 
 
 *Copied from "Injurious and Beneficial Insects of California," by E. O. Essig. 
 
 813683 
 
114 APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 If the liquid soap can not be had, use 20 pounds whale oil soap, dis- 
 solved in 10 gallons of boiling water, to which 3 pounds of lye have been 
 added. 
 
 Whale Oil Soap. 
 
 This soap is often used in combination with nicotine sprays, to 
 increase their penetration and spreading qualities. Alone as a spray for 
 apple aphids it is very valuable, when used at the strength of 1 pound 
 of soap to 5 gallons of water. 
 
 The ordinary form of this soap has to be melted before being used. 
 There is, however, a liquid form on the market which is much more 
 conveniently handled. 
 
 Arsenate of Lead. 
 
 This is the most commonly used arsenical spray in the apple orchard, 
 and ordinarily is applied at the strength of 3 pounds paste to 50 gallons 
 of water. This amount is sufficient to kill codling moth, canker worm, 
 tent caterpillar and other larvte which feed upon foliage and fruit. 
 A powdered form of arsenate of lead is also on the market and should 
 be used according to the directions on container. 
 
 Paris Green. 
 
 In the past this arsenical poison has been very extensively used in 
 spraying for the control of chewing insects, but its use has been super- 
 seided by the safer and generally better arsenate of lead. For codling 
 moth and other chewing insects it should be applied at the strength of 
 f pound to 100 gallons of water. On account of the likelihood of there 
 being more or less soluble arsenic in the Paris green, which may blight 
 the foliage, lime in small quantities should always be added to the spray. 
 Five pounds of stone lime, slaked, to every 100 gallons of liquid is 
 sufficient. 
 
 Arsenite of Zinc. 
 
 The above is one of the newer arsenical insecticides, and gives 
 splendid results in killing certain insects, which are more or less resis- 
 tant to arsenate of lead poisoning, as well as all those for which the 
 arsenate of lead is used. It is a less stable compound and for that reason 
 considerable damage has been done to trees and fruit because of its 
 having burned the foliage. It is probably safe for the calyx application 
 in spraying for codling moth. 
 
 Bordeaux Mixture. 
 
 Copper sulphate _ 10 pounds. 
 
 Stone lime (unslaked) 10 pounds. 
 
 Water 100 gallons. 
 
 Preparation. The copper sulphate is first dissolved by suspending the 
 weighed amount in a sack, in a sufficient quantity of water. The lime 
 is slaked in an equal amount of water and the two liquids poured 
 together into the spray tank, where the agitator will keep the liquid 
 properly mixed. 
 
APPLE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 115 
 
 This is one of the oldest fungicides, and one which we might term the 
 standard. 
 
 Lime-Sulphur (Self-boiled). 
 
 Stone lime 8 pounds. 
 
 Sulphur 8 pounds. 
 
 Water 50 gallons. 
 
 /'/ I,H ration. The preparation differs from that of the home made 
 boiled lime-sulphur, in that only the heat of the lime, which is generated 
 during the slacking process, is utilized. It is made in a barrel or tank, 
 which may be covered tightly to retain the heat for about 15 or 20 
 minutes, when a slight amount of the sulphur and lime will have com- 
 bined. It is diluted with cold water, after being strained. 
 
 In some of the states to the east the self -boiled lime-sulphur alone, 
 or in combination with arsenate of lead, has been used very successfully 
 for apple scab and mildew, but has not been generally recommended 
 under California conditions. 
 
 Atomic or Milled Sulphur. 
 
 Very finely divided sulphur may now be purchased for spraying pur- 
 poses. The forms known as ' ' Atomic ' ' and * ' Milled ' ' sulphurs are com- 
 monly used for mites with great success, and are excellent mildew fungi- 
 cides. The directions for mixing come with the packages. 
 
INDEX. 1 1 7 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 PAGE 
 A'KKA;E. by counties 8 
 
 Yellow Newtowns and Yellow Bellflowers in Pa.iaro Valley 29 
 
 AGE, influences size of fruit 67 
 
 one year old tree best 36 
 
 ALEXANDER 14. 15, 36 
 
 ALSOPHILA POMETARIA 89 
 
 ANNUAL PRUNING 54 
 
 APHELINIS MA LI 85 
 
 .1 /'///S. art nn 88 
 
 bakcri 88 
 
 destruction of young grafts 61 
 
 gossypii 88 
 
 green apple 23, 86 
 
 medicaginis 88 
 
 other apple species 87 
 
 pomi 86 
 
 purple aphis 86 
 
 sorbi 86 
 
 species affecting the apple 84 
 
 woolly aphis 23, 84, 85 
 
 APPLE, acreage bearing 8 
 
 acreage non-bearing 8 
 
 age to plant 36 
 
 budding 32 
 
 butter 102 
 
 crab 16 
 
 deep rooting trees desirable 85 
 
 insect pests of 79 
 
 propagation of 31 
 
 root-grafting 34 
 
 seedlings 31 
 
 selection of trees for planting 35 
 
 summer varieties 15 
 
 MH'HIPS ARGYROSPILA 89 
 
 ARKANSAS 15, 16 
 
 ARKANSAS BLACK 15, 16 
 
 AKMILLARIA MELLEA 92 
 
 ARSENATE OF LEAD 75, 81, 112, 114 
 
 ARSENITE OF ZINC 81, 93, 112, 114 
 
 ASPHALTUM FOR TREATING WOUNDS 59 
 
 ASPIDIOTUS PERNICIOSUS 88 
 
 ATOMIC SULPHUR 96, 112, 115 
 
 BACILLUS AMYLOVORUS 92 
 
 BACTERIUM TUMEFACIEN8 93 
 
 BAILEY SWEET 15 
 
 BALDWIN 14, 15, 16. 35, 67 
 
 BALDWIN SPOT 16 
 
 BALLARD, W. S 56, 57, 94 
 
 BANANA 15, 28 
 
 BEN DAVIS 15, 16, 36, 72 
 
 IJKNTON, J. F 101 
 
 BIETIGHEIMER 1 15 
 
 BLACK BEN 14, 15, 16 
 
 IILACK LEAF 40 _' 76, 85, 86, 87, 88, 113 
 
 MU<;HT is, 92 
 
 BLISTER MITE 91 
 
 BLOOMING OF VARIETIES 36 
 
 BORDEAUX MIXTURE 93, 112 
 
 BORERS, conditions favorable for 47 
 
 flat headed of apple 90 
 
 BOYD, E. N 24 
 
1.18 INDEX. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 BRACING, NATURAL 57 
 
 BREMNER, O. E 87 
 
 BROWN MITE 90 
 
 BRYOBIA PRATENSIS 90 
 
 BUDDING 32 
 
 in new growth of old trees 60 
 
 operation of 34 
 
 BUDS, for budding purposes 31 
 
 health promotes frost resistance 73 
 
 only healthy should be used for budding 32 
 
 selected carelessly for budding 36 
 
 tying of 34 
 
 BUD- WOOD 32 
 
 BY-PRODUCTS 102, 103 
 
 CALYX SPRAY FOR CODLING MOTH 81 
 
 CANADA RED 15 
 
 CAPILLARITY OF SOILS 64 
 
 CHAMPION 15 
 
 CHENANGO 15 
 
 CHIONASPIS FURFURA 88 
 
 CHRYSOBOTHRIS FEMORATA 90 
 
 CIDER 102 
 
 CLEFT GRAFTING 60 
 
 CLIMBING CUTWORMS 90 
 
 COAL HEATERS FOR FROST PROTECTION.., 73 
 
 CODLING MOTH 15, 67, 68, 75 
 
 control of 76, 78, 79, 81, 82, 83, 84, 114 
 
 life history of . 79, 80 
 
 COMMERCIAL FERTILIZERS . 65 
 
 CONSUMPTION OF APPLES 104 
 
 CONTACT INSECTICIDES 112 
 
 COOK'S SEEDLING 15 
 
 CORROSIVE SUBLIMATE, disinfectant 92 
 
 COVER CROPS 63, 65 
 
 CRAB APPLES 16, 31 
 
 CROPPING PREVIOUS TO SETTING TREES 39 
 
 CROSS POLLINATION 35 
 
 CROWN GALL 32, 37, 93 
 
 CRUDE OIL EMULSION 87, 112, 113 
 
 CULTIVATION 63, 73 
 
 CUT-WORMS, climbing 90 
 
 DELAWARE RED 15 
 
 DELICIOUS 14, 15, 17, 35 
 
 DEPTH TO PLANT 44 
 
 DISEASES OF THE APPLE 92, 96 
 
 freedom from 37 
 
 DISTILLATE EMULSION 86, 112, 113 
 
 DRIED APPLES 102 
 
 DUST MULCH 64 
 
 DYNAMITING FOR HARDPAN 42 
 
 EARLY HARVEST 15, 36 
 
 EMPOASCA MALI 88 
 
 ERIOPHYES PYRI 91 
 
 ERIOSOMA LANIGERA 84 
 
 ESOPUS 14, 15, 25, 35 
 
 ESSIG, E. O 88, 114 
 
 FALLA WATER 15 
 
 FALL CANKER WORM 89 
 
 FALL PIPPIN 15, 36 
 
 FAMEUSE 14, 15, 36 
 
 FEMMONS, FRANK 17 
 
 FERTILIZERS 62, 63, 65 
 
 FIRING FOR FROST PROTECTION 73 
 
 FLAT HEADED APPLE TREE BORER 90 
 
 FLAT HEADED BORERS 46 
 
INDEX. 119 
 
 1 '.\<;K 
 FLORENCE CRAB 16 
 
 FORMULAE, spray _ 112, 115 
 
 FOURTH AND FIFTH SEASON PRUNING 54 
 
 FROST, early blooming varieties affected by 23 
 
 injury from 70, 72 
 
 orchard heating to prevent injury from 73 
 
 protection from __73, 74 
 
 relation to apple growing 
 
 smudging to control 73 
 
 susceptibility of varieties to injury from 72 
 
 FRUIT SPURS DEVELOPED BY SUMMER PRUNING __56, 57 
 
 FUNGI, rot I , 
 
 FUNGICIDES __112, 115 
 
 ;.\xo 16 
 
 GILLETTE, C. P 87 
 
 GLORIA MUNDI 15 
 
 G HADING __97, 98 
 
 GRAFTING 32 
 
 methods of go 
 
 selection of stock for , 31 
 
 waxes 61 
 
 GRAVENSTEIN 5. 14. 15. 19, 35 
 
 methods of pruning at Sebastopol 53 
 
 show at Sebastopol 104 
 
 GRAY, GEO. P 93 
 
 GREEN APPLE APHIS 23, 76, 88 
 
 GRIMES 15, 19, 28 
 
 GRIMES GOLDEN PIPPIN 19 
 
 GYPSUM IN SOILS 38 
 
 HARDPAN 38 
 
 breaking with dynamite 42 
 
 HARROWING 40 
 
 HASSLER, J. E ft 
 
 HEATING THE ORCHARD 
 
 HEMEROCAMPA VETUSTA 89 
 
 HEXAGONAL SYSTEM FOR PLANTING 40 
 
 HOLES, digging for trees 42 
 
 filling in 44 
 
 HOOVER 15 
 
 HOSE FOR SPRAYING 77 
 
 HUMUS 39, 65 
 
 HYSLOP CRAB 1 6. 36 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 boxes of fruit stored in packing house, fig. 52 98 
 
 bracing, natural, fig. 39 58 
 
 budding operations, figs. 17, 18, 19 _-32. 33 
 
 calyces right for codling moth spray, fig. 48 82 
 
 carton for apples, figs. 55, 56 __101, 102 
 
 Delicious, fig. 3 17 
 
 Delicious tree, heavily loaded, fig. 4 18 
 
 framework, crowded, fig. 27 48 
 
 framework formed with three branches, fig. 29 49 
 
 frost injury, figs. 45, 46 71 
 
 frost russet, fig. 47 72 
 
 Gravenstein, fig. 5 18 
 
 Gravenstein pruning, fig. 35 54 
 
 Gravenstein well headed, fig. 36 55 
 
 Grimes, fig. 6 19 
 
 growth of heavily pruned Winesap, fig. 33 51 
 
 heavily prum-d young Winesap, fig. 32 51 
 
 jelly exhibit, fig. 57 103 
 
 Jonathan, fig. 7 20 
 
 Jonathan trees, fine specimens, fig. 8__ 21 
 
 Jonathan trc*-, well loaded, fig. 9 22 
 
 mildew on apple twig, fig. 50 94 
 
120 INDEX. 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS Continued. PAGE 
 
 orchard at Tehachapi, set well, fig. 24 42 
 
 orchard scene near Julian, fig. 2 7 
 
 orchard scene near Sugar Pine, fig. 1 6 
 
 packed boxes, Yellow Bellflowers, fig. 53 99 
 
 packed box showing bulge, fig. 54 100 
 
 picking bucket, fig. 51 97 
 
 planting systems, figs. 20, 21, 22, 23 41 
 
 Rome Beauty, fig. 10 23 
 
 Rome Beauty, young tree, fig. 11 24 
 
 saw, pruning, fig. 40 59 
 
 scab on apple, fig. 49 93 
 
 Sebastopol Apple Show Exhibit, fig. 58 105 
 
 second season pruning, figs. 30, 31 50 
 
 setting board, fig. 25 44 
 
 shears, pruning, fig. 41 59 
 
 shears, thinning, fig. 44 69 
 
 Stayman Winesap, heavily loaded, fig. 12 25 
 
 summer pruned Yellow Newtown, fig. 37 56 
 
 third season pruning, fig. 34 53 
 
 tillage well cared for, figs. 42, 43 63, 64 
 
 tree shown in figs. 32, 33, pruned, fig. 33a 52 
 
 unpruned, branches slender, fig. 28 : 48 
 
 Winesap, fig. 14 27 
 
 WinterPearmain, fig. 13 26 
 
 Yellow Bellflower, fig. 15 29 
 
 Yellow Newtown, fig. 16 , 30 
 
 Yellow Newtowns on summer pruned tree. fig. 38 57 
 
 young tree cut back when set, fig. 26 47 
 
 INSECTICIDES _ 112 
 
 INSECT PESTS OF THE APPLE 79 
 
 INSPECTION BY COUNTY HORTICULTURAL COMMISSIONERS 37 
 
 INTERCROPPING 62 
 
 IRON SULPHIDE 95, 112 
 
 IRRIGATION 63 
 
 difficult with improper leveling 39 
 
 influence of plowing upon . 40 
 
 influence upon frost 73 
 
 of young orchard 45 
 
 relation to intercrops _ 62 
 
 JELLY, apple 16, 102 
 
 exhibit at California Apple Show___ 103 
 
 JONATHAN __14, 15, 20, 21, 22, 31, 35 
 
 relation of early blooming to freezing 72 
 
 spot disease of 21 
 
 JULIAN DUCHESS - 14, 15 
 
 KENTUCKY RED STREAK 36 
 
 KERF GRAFTING 60 
 
 KEROSENE EMULSION 112, 113 
 
 KESWICK CODLING 15 
 
 KING 14, 15 
 
 KING DAVID 14, 15, 21 
 
 LABELS FOR BOXES - 100 
 
 LANKFORD 15 
 
 LAWYER 15 
 
 LAYING OUT ORCHARD TRACT-- __ 43 
 
 LEAD PAINT FOR WOUNDS 59 
 
 LEAF HOPPER OF THE APPLE 88 
 
 LEAF ROLLER OF THE APPLE 89 
 
 LEGUMES 39, 62 
 
 LEPIDOSAPHES ULMI _ 
 
 LEVELING 39 
 
 LIME, addition to soils deficient in 66 
 
 for whitewash 45 
 
 use with Paris green 81, 114 
 
LJME-8ULPHUB 
 i.inn,. rdal 
 
 121 
 
 PAOI 
 
 88, 93 
 ._ 112 
 _ 112 
 
 homemade 
 
 self- boiled 
 
 MACHINES FOR SPRAYING 
 
 MACKAY, L. GERTRUDE, _ 10 4 
 
 MAIDEN BLUSH "" 15 35 
 
 lM/.,lroso.U,l ,1 MERICANA ' 89 
 
 MAI.ACOXfJMA DISSTRIA 89 
 
 MAMMOTH BLACK TWIG 16 
 
 MANX 15 
 
 MARL . 33 
 
 MARTHA CRAB 16 
 
 M ASKEW. FREDERICK 36 
 
 MATURE TREE PRUNING 56 
 
 McGOWAX. MRS. HUGH ~ 103 
 
 McIXTOSH 15 
 
 McMAHON WHITE II__~ 15 
 
 MECHANICAL GRADERS 98 
 
 MILDEW 75, 115 
 
 affecting Yellow Newtowns 30 
 
 powdery of the apple 94 
 
 MILLED SULPHUR 96, 112, 115 
 
 MINERAL NITRATES 66 
 
 MIXKLER 15 
 
 MISSOURI PIPPIN i 15, 36 
 
 MITES '115 
 
 MONTREAL CRAB 36 
 
 NATURAL BRACING 57 
 
 NATURAL ENEMIES OF THE WOOLLY APHIS 85 
 
 XELSON, PROF. J. W 38 
 
 NICOTINE 75, 112, 113 
 
 XITRATE OF SODA, SPRAYING 65 
 
 NITROGEN 39, 65 
 
 X >XE-SUCH 36 
 
 NORTHERN SPY 15, 35 
 
 NORTHWESTERN 15 
 
 XoZZLES 77 
 
 XUMRER OF TREES PER ACRE \ 40 
 
 OAK ROOT FUNGUS 92 
 
 OIL HEATERS FOR FROST PROTECTION--- 73 
 
 OLDENBURG 15 
 
 ORANGE PIPPIN 15 
 
 ORCHARD HEATING 73, 71 
 
 ORTLEY 15, 22, 28, 35 
 
 ' 'YSTER SHELL SCALE 88 
 
 PACKIXG 97 
 
 SJZA of boxes and styles of pack 99 
 
 pedal packages 100 
 
 PACKING HoUSKS HARBOR CODLING MOTH 84 
 
 PAINTING WOUNDS 59 
 
 I'ALhAChT! A VKRNATA 89 
 
 PARAGON 14, 15 
 
 PARIS GREEN 81, 112, 114 
 
 PARTHENorARPIC DEVELOPMENT OF FRUIT 70 
 
 PEWAUKEE - 15 
 
 PICKING 97, 98 
 
 PIPING SVSTEM OF SPRAYING 77 
 
 PLANT PCX ing by 58 
 
 takf-n fn.in soil by cover crops 62 
 
 PLANTING __38-43 
 
 number of trees per acre 40 
 
 preparation of soils for 38 
 
 selection of trees for 35 
 
 systems 40 
 
122 INDEX. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 PLANT LICE 75 
 
 PLOWING 40 
 
 PLUM CIDER 15 
 
 PODOSPHJERA LEUCOTRICHA 94 
 
 PODOSPHJERA OXYACANTHJE ___ 94 
 
 POINTS ESTABLISHED FOR TREES IN SETTING 42 
 
 POISONOUS INSECTICIDES _ 112 
 
 POLLINATION OF VARIETIES 36 
 
 POWER SPRAYERS 77 
 
 PRODUCTION ' 104 
 
 PROPAGATION 31, 34 
 
 PROTECTION OF APPLES FROM FREEZING 70 
 
 PROTECTORS FOR YOUNG TREES 45 
 
 PRUNING 15, 27, 28, 46, 49 
 
 annually : 54 
 
 cutting to outside buds 55 
 
 fourth and fifth seasons 54 
 
 heavy with Jonathan 21 
 
 height of head 46 
 
 influence of variety on 52, 56 
 
 influence upon frost 73 
 
 low heading 46 
 
 mature trees 56 
 
 saw 50 
 
 second season 47 
 
 shears 59 
 
 summer 47, 56, 57 
 
 third season 52 
 
 to control mildew 30 
 
 young tree when set ; 46 
 
 PURPLE APPLE APHIS 86 
 
 QUESTIONS SENT TO APPLE GROWERS .__ 9 
 
 QUINCUNX SYSTEM FOR PLANTING 40 
 
 RAFFIA BUDDING FIBRE 34 
 
 RAKER, JUDGE J. S 99 
 
 RALLS 15, 72 
 
 RAMBO 15 
 
 RECIPES 106-111 
 
 RED ASTRACHAN 15, 36 
 
 RED HUMPED CATERPILLAR ' 90 
 
 RED JUNE 15 
 
 RED PEARMAIN ., 15 
 
 RED WINTER 15 
 
 REED, HAYWARD 77 
 
 REGIONS FOR APPLES OUTLINED BY WICKSON 5 
 
 RESISTANT VARIETIES TO WOOLLY APHIS ATTACK 85 
 
 RHODE ISLAND GREENING 14, 15, 25, 36 
 
 RODENTS, protection against 45 
 
 RODGERS BROS 100 
 
 RODS FOR SPRAYING 77 
 
 ROMANITE 15 
 
 ROME BEAUTY 14, 15, 23. 24, 35 
 
 late blooming habit 72 
 
 pruning of 52 
 
 ROOT-GRAFTING 34 
 
 ROOT-HAIRS 46 
 
 ROOTS, SEEDLING 34 
 
 ROOT SYSTEM DAMAGED IN DIGGING 46 
 
 ROT-FUNGI 47, 58, 59 
 
 ROWE, GEORGE 24 
 
 RUSSETING FROM FROST 72 
 
 PAN JOSE SCALE__. __88, 104 
 
PAGE 
 SCAB H 5 
 
 affecting Fellow Newtowns 30 
 
 description and control of 
 
 knowledge necessary in spraying for 75 
 
 SCALE. San Jose, scurfy and oyster shell 88 
 
 SfHI7.ri!A ro.Yr/.YxVA 90 
 
 SCIONS 60 
 
 SECOND CODLING MOTH SPRAY 83 
 
 8BO >XI> SEASON PRUNING 47 
 
 SEEI>, instructions for sowing .!_ 31 
 
 SEEDLINGS 31 
 
 roots 34 
 
 union of buds with stem 32 
 
 SETTING BOARD 44 
 
 SHEEPNOSE 15 
 
 SHERIFF 15 
 
 SHOCKLEY 36 
 
 SIBERIAN CRAB 16 
 
 SMITH --15. 36 
 
 SMOKEHOUSE 15 
 
 SMUDGING 73 
 
 SOIL 38 
 
 baking of 
 
 deficiency of nitrogen 6:? 
 
 hardpan 38 
 
 Norfolk sandy loam 39 
 
 Portsmouth sandy loam 39 
 
 retention of moisture 63 
 
 SPITZENBERG 25 
 
 SPRAY FORMULAE 1 112 
 
 SPRAYING 15, 73. 75 
 
 influence upon quality 102 
 
 machines 77 
 
 piping system of 77 
 
 quantity of material for 78 
 
 SPRING CANKER WORM 89 
 
 \RE SYSTEM FOR PLANTING TREES 40 
 
 STANDARDIZATION METHODS AFFECTED BY THINNING 67 
 
 STARK 15 
 
 STATISTICS, tables of 5, 10, 11, 12. 1 'J 
 
 STAYMAN WINESAP 1 15, 25 
 
 STUBS 47, 58, 61 
 
 SUMMER, cultivation 65 
 
 pruning 47, 56, 57 
 
 varieties 15 
 
 SUN-BORERS 46 
 
 SUN-SCALD 45, 46, 47 
 
 SUTTON , 14, 15 
 
 SWAAR. 14, 15 
 
 TAYLOR, E. P 87 
 
 TENT CATERPILLARS 
 
 TERMITES 47 
 
 THERMOMETERS FOR ORCHARD HEATING WORK 74 
 
 THINNING 67, 68, 69 
 
 necessary for best results 27 
 
 of Gravensteins 19 
 
 THIRD CODLING MOTH SPRAY 83 
 
 THIRD SEASON PRUNING 52 
 
 THOROUGHNESS IN SPRAYING 77 
 
 TOLMAN 15 
 
 TOP-WORKING APPLE TREES 60 
 
 TRANSCENDENT CRABS 16. 36 
 
 TREATMENT OF WOUNDS 59 
 
 TREE PROTECTORS 45 
 
 TRIANGULAR SYSTEM FOR PLANTING 40 
 
124 INDEX. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 TUSSOCK MOTH 89 
 
 TWENTY OUNCE 15 
 
 UTTER 15 
 
 VARIETIES, adaptation of 38 
 
 cross pollination of 35 
 
 description of 16-30 
 
 list of 14, 15 
 
 selection of for planting 35, 36 
 
 self fertility of 35 
 
 * size varies with 67 
 
 supplementary list of 15 
 
 undesirable should be removed 7 
 
 variation in time of blooming- 36 
 
 VENTURIA INAEQUALIS 92 
 
 VINEGAR '. 102 
 
 VOLCK, W. H 56, 57, 66, 94 
 
 WAGENER 14, 15, 26 
 
 WALBRIDGE 15 
 
 WALTERS, S. A 103 
 
 WATER SPROUTS 56 
 
 WAXES, grafting : _ 61 
 
 WEALTHY 15 
 
 WELDON, MRS. GEO. P 104 
 
 WHALE OIL SOAP 88, 112, 114 
 
 WHIPPLE, PROF. O. B.___ 70 
 
 WHITE BELLFLOWER___ 22 
 
 WHITE PIPPIN 15 
 
 WHITEWASH 45 
 
 WHITNEY CRAB '. 16 
 
 WICKSON, PROF. E. J 5, 31 
 
 WILSON, PROF. H. F 87, 113 
 
 WINESAP 14, 15, 16, 26, 28, 35, 36, 52, 67 
 
 WINTER BANANA 28 
 
 WINTER PEARMAIN 14, 15, 27, 35, 36 
 
 WOLF RIVER 15 
 
 WOOLLY APHIS 23, 37, 75, 84, 85 
 
 WOUNDS, treatment of 59 
 
 WRAPPING PAPER 100 
 
 YELLOW BELLFLOWER 5, 14, 15, 22, 28, 30, 35, 36, 71, 72, 99 
 
 YELLOW NEWTOWN 5, 14, 15, 28, 29, 35, 99 
 
 YELLOW TRANSPARENT 15, 36 
 
 YORK IMPERIAL 15 
 
 YOUNG TREES, caring for 44, 45 
 
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 LD 21A-4(bn-4,'63 
 (D6471slO)476B 
 
 General Library 
 
 University of California 
 
 Berkeley