] 
 
 eX, 
 
BARON LIOMAL NATHAN DEROTH.8CH: 
 Member of Parliament, for tlae City cf London. 
 
RUNNING SKETCHES 
 
 attft 
 
 ENGLAND, FRANCE, GERMANY, BELGIUM, 
 AND SCOTLAND. 
 
 BY 
 
 GEORGE OPWAY, 
 
 (KAH-GE-GA-GAH-BOWH) 
 
 CHIEF OF THK OJIBWAY NATION, NORTH AMKRICAN INDIANS. 
 
 JHIustratfous. 
 
 NEW YORK: 
 
 J. C. RIKER, 129 FULTON STREET. 
 1851. 
 
C.b 
 
 Entere 4 according to Act of Congress, in the year 1851, by 
 
 - V ?. .GEORGE COP WAY, 
 . ; lit thje- P/wk Offxe (or the. Southern District of New York. 
 
 STKKEOTYl KD BY THOMAS B. SMITH, 
 216 WILLIAM STRKKT, N. Y. 
 
TO 
 
 RICHARD PENNELL, M.D., 
 
 AND HIS LADY, 
 
 AS A MARK OF THE HIGHEST RESPECT 
 AND GRATITUDE FOR THEIR KINDNESS, 
 
 &l)ig bolume 
 
 IS MOST RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED 
 
 BY THE AUTHOR. 
 
 M25740 
 
IN putting out the following pages, it has been in part 
 to satisfy the inquiries by my friends in this country, 
 how I liked my tour through Europe, as well as to pre 
 serve the pleasing incidents which were shown me, by 
 the people wherever I sojourned. 
 
 Without following the general course of travellers in 
 encumbering their books in deep historical researches of 
 the various countries they have visited, I have merely 
 put enough to interest the general reader, of the towns, 
 and time-worn ruins which came under my personal 
 observation. 
 
 Much of this is devoted to sketches of men now prom 
 inent before the European public, which I hope will re 
 pay the reader for the time occupied in reading them. 
 
 Evening after evening I have been requested to recite 
 my impressions of the country since I have returned. I 
 send forth this volume to the fireside of the paleface. All 
 
VI PREFACE. 
 
 defects which may be found, (and they are numerous) I 
 hope will be overlooked by them. 
 
 Now I am once more in the land of my fathers. A 
 land dear to me ; I love it better than ever, and may 
 the Great Spirit ever smile on the land of my birth. 
 Farewell 
 
 until you hear from me again 
 
 KAH-GE-GA-GAH-BOWH. 
 NEW YORK, May, 1851. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 PAGE 
 THE DEPARTURE, H 
 
 CHAPTER IL 
 
 THE OCEAN, 21 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 THE OCEAN, . . * t - 29 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 IRISH CHANNEL AND COAST, 84 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 ARRIVAL STRANGE THINGS AND PEOPLE DOCKS, SHIPS, ETC., . 42 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 THE PEOPLE TOWN COUNTRY, 52 
 
 CHAPTER VIL 
 
 HISTORICAL NOTICES OF LIVERPOOL, .... 66 
 
Vlii CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 COMMENCEMENT OF TRAVEL, 
 
 PAGE 
 
 77 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 LONDON, . 91 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 ILLUSTRIOUS ILLUSTRATED, 98 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 RAMBLES IN HAMPTON COURT, . . . .114 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 ANOTHER VISIT TO LIVERPOOL, . . . . . .127 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 JENNY LIND, .......... 148 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 BAPTIST NOEL TRAVELS TO COLOGNE, 168 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 THE RHINE, 198 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 PEACE CONGRESS "... 208 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 AFTER SKETCHES OF SPEECHES AND MEN, .... 221 
 
CONTENTS. IX 
 
 CHAPTER XV III. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 SKETCHES CONTINUED 234 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 VISIT TO HEIDELBERG, 254 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 LONDON AGAIN, 275 
 
 CHAPTER XXL 
 
 FIRST VISIT TO SCOTLAND, 282 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 LECTURES AND ADDRESSES IN LONDON, AND THAVELS TO THE 
 
 NORTH 297 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 SCOTLAND, 334 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS, 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 THE DEPARTUEE. 
 
 IT is nearly five months since I first had any idea of 
 going to Germany. It was suggested in a conversation I 
 had with the great Philanthropist and celebrated " Learn 
 ed Blacksmith," ELIHU BURRETT, in Washington. The 
 fact of leaving my native land seems now a reality. The 
 suggestions which were then made as a means of prepa 
 ration, have been attended to and now I am going to a 
 country where the people will be strangers to me, and 
 whose language will be different from mine whose habits 
 and manners will be altogether their own. 
 
 I have thought that I loved my native land ; but I 
 realize it more to-day than ever ; and all that is lovely in 
 
12 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 my native land is magnified. I can see at this moment 
 all the scenes ef beauty and grandeur which I have be- 
 heM in the forest world. The rivers whose courses I have 
 traced as they glided in deep shadow through the forests 
 the beautiful lakes on whose wooded banks I have wan 
 dered in childhood are rising in my view ; and alter 
 nately pleasure arid regret flit across my breast as I think 
 of the varied past. 
 
 Valley after valley, and mountain after mountain ap 
 pears in view, and in each I recognize a familiar face, 
 which often greeted me in the land where I first drew my 
 breath, and found I had my life in a world of toil. I 
 may see other countries equally beautiful and grand in 
 scenery, yet let me be an enthusiast for my own dear na 
 tive land. To-day the power of steam and the arms of 
 iron must sever me from my friends and country. My 
 path no one knows save the Deity ! The waste of waters 
 and their eternal war ! what will be my sensations when 
 I shall first see the Old World ? What kind of country 
 is England ? is Germany ? 
 
 Such were my thoughts while seated in the Adams 
 House, in Boston, to take my breakfast for the last time 
 before sailing and while musing thus, I perceived quite 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 13 
 
 a commotion among the boarders as they sat at table, and 
 I could distinguish the following sad sentences, " The 
 President is dead ! He died last evening." Then Gen 
 eral Zachariah Taylor is no more ! and we shall take to 
 Europe the news of his death. My only wish on hearing 
 of this event was for his safety ; and I hoped the Great 
 Spirit had forgiven him for killing so many of the red men 
 of my country. 
 
 " Haste ! Haste !" the hands of my watch told me, as 
 I found that the time of my departure was near. Every 
 thing being in readiness, I took to the steamer, where I 
 met my friends. 
 
 What a beautiful morning ! The sky so clear, and 
 brought nearer, as it were, by sympathy with earth ! 
 The air, heated by the warm sun, came to us soft and 
 balmy, as our vessel lay anchored in the shade. Life in 
 the crowded streets, and noise of carts echoing in the busi 
 ness part of the city ; and Commerce pouring her treas 
 ures from every clime to the wharf of Boston ! Having 
 gazed with wonder and admiration on the ships, and 
 wharves, and warehouses, I stepped on board the beauti 
 ful Niagara. I found one on board who is going to the 
 Peace Congress, the Rev. Dr. Barrett, of Boston. He 
 
14 EUKOPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 was attended by a band of soldiers, who honored him with 
 their coming down to see him off, because he had tickled 
 their ears with a very neat and appropriate sermon yes 
 terday. Just five minutes before twelve o clock, brandy, 
 wine, and music. The Captain mounted the paddle-box, 
 and called out "Let go!" and as the wheels moved, I 
 mounted the long-boat and delivered the following ad 
 dress to my friends on the wharf : which having delivered, 
 I had to throw at them. 
 
 " The day is bright ning which we long have sought, 
 
 I see its early light and hail its dawn : 
 The gentle voice of Peace my ear hath caught, 
 
 And from my forest home I greet the morn. 
 Here, now, I meet you with a brother s hand 
 
 Bid you farewell then speed me on my way 
 To join the white men in a foreign land, 
 
 And from the dawn bring on the bright noonday. 
 Noonday of Peace ! O. glorious jubilee, 
 When all mankind are one from sea to sea. 
 
 Farewell, my native land, rock, hill, and plain, 
 River and lake, and forest home adieu ; 
 
 Months shall depart e er I shall tread again 
 Amid your scenes, and be once more with you. 
 
 I leave thee now ; but wheresoe er I go, 
 Whatever scenes of grandeur meet my eyes, 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 15 
 
 My heart can but ONE native country know, 
 
 And that, the fairest land beneath the skies. 
 America ! farewell ; thou art that gem, 
 Brightest and fairest in earth s diadem." 
 
 Having backed to the middle of the stream, our wheels 
 rolled and thundered forward, and with the first revolu 
 tions they made, our iron lungs went 
 "Bang" "Bang." 
 
 The echo having died away, we were soon seen in the 
 distance. 
 
 The harhor of Boston appears most to advantage when 
 looking at it from the water. The waters are still, and 
 yet the surface is all life-crafts of every name and size, 
 and vessels from every country ! The flags of nations 
 here wave without fear. 
 
 The further we were borne on by our ship, the more 
 the city of Boston seemed to lift up her spires, glittering 
 before the sun. The State House rising above the rest, 
 appeared to look down the chimneys around it. Viewing 
 this I thought of my first excursion to its summit, eleven 
 years ago, when I first attempted to learn the ways and 
 language of the Pale Face. From yonder steeple I then 
 gazed with wonder and astonishment on the works of the 
 
16 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 white man. I had just come from the forest, where the 
 white man with his axe had hardly ever entered. Tra 
 cing my varied life was like watching the snow-white 
 clouds, which though lovely, now assume a dark and 
 frowning aspect, and anon, when they have been rent by 
 storms, are light and fleecy. 
 
 As we ploughed down and out of the harbor, the sea 
 seemed ready to fold us in its arms. A lovelier day I 
 have hardly ever seen. May the Gods be kind and pro 
 pitious ! 
 
 The last thing I could see in the distance was the 
 Bunker Hill Monument, which appeared to tower over all 
 the surrounding country. This column was reared in 
 commemoration of a battle, and in honor of men who 
 fought bravely for their firesides, while they expelled the 
 red man from his native soil. The day I hope is not far 
 distant when the cause of Humanity will be blessed with 
 the men who will change this spirit of hero-worship into 
 adoration for everything noble and elevating, Then shall 
 columns devoted to the Prince of Peace arise one after 
 another to the clouds, which shall be like beacon lights 
 in the highway of Progress, for the generations yet to 
 come. 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 17 
 
 The rocky Islands loomed far off in our view, and soon 
 nothing but the dark outline of the land could be seen 
 and still I gazed and gazed, and when it had become 
 concealed from sight, I could with a heart full of affection 
 for my native land, say 
 
 " America, America ! Heaven s blessing attend her 1 
 "While we live we will cherish, and love, and defend her. 
 Tho the scorner may sneer at, and witlings defame her, 
 Our hearts swell with gladness whenever we name her." 
 
 To the following gentlemen I am greatly indebted for 
 their kindness in preparing for my journey. God bless 
 them. I have never asked a true American anything 
 but I have received. I can do nothing more than to 
 love and cherish them. Their smiles have left a lasting 
 sensation in my heart. I may find in the world men 
 equally kind to me, but these I shall never forget : J. P. 
 Bigelow, the Mayor, Amos Lawrence, Julius A. Palmer, 
 and Mr. Walworth. 
 
 I might name others who have been my friends in 
 Boston. Those have upheld me in all my efforts they 
 gave me encouragement in their expression of good- will 
 to my race, and notwithstanding all the many aggrava 
 ted wrongs which my poor brethren have received from 
 
18 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 the hands of the Pale Face. I have a nature within me 
 which, when I see the kind acts of the white man, 
 covers a multitude of sins. 
 
 I have regarded the Christian of this country as one 
 whose opportunities of doing good have been numerous ; 
 and who when he has embraced these opportunities has 
 enjoyed more of Heaven s smiles than any one could ex 
 perience elsewhere. 
 
 On board this Steamer bound for Europe are people 
 from all parts of the United States from the south, 
 north and west each having an object in view. Some 
 are going to the continent, and others on business of an 
 official character, while others are in pursuit of happi 
 ness or riches. Here I am too a Delegate to the Peace 
 Congress in behalf of the Christian Indians of Ameri 
 ca ! A few years, and what a change ! Not very long 
 ago I heard the war-cry of the West ringing in my ear. 
 The scattered and mangled remains of noble figures I 
 have seen ! But the dawn of a better day has come. 
 The war-whoop has died away in the song of praise to the 
 Great Spirit. Art, Science, Literature, like a thousand 
 streams, roll on their mighty tide, to purify and refine 
 the Indian mind. 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 19 
 
 There is a man on board who seldom speaks silent, 
 thoughtful, grave, even to sadness. Who can he be ? 
 An Englishman in appearance : an Englishman I find 
 him to be. But sad his experience ! The Q,ueen City 
 of the West will be to him an interesting spot, for in 
 travelling while there a bright and noble youth died, 
 and that man is his father, carrying the sad intelligence 
 to his own domestic circle of the death of his son. His 
 intention was to have travelled all over the United 
 States and the Canadas, that this son of his might see as 
 much as was desirable of the New World before he 
 should settle down in some professional calling. 
 
 But what a contrast ! There is a Southern gentleman 
 whose very finger ends are full of life, and whose wit 
 ticisms set the whole company in a roar of laughter. So 
 full of animation, so full of oddity is he that you have 
 only to look that way and a hearty laugh will instantly 
 put to flight a legion of "blues," if you happen to be 
 troubled with these unwelcome visitors. 
 
 Sea-sickness ! what utter wretchedness and mise 
 ry ! The wind is fair, the sky is clear, and the boat 
 moving at the rate of thirteen knots an hour. A table 
 groaning with good things, but the very sight of them 
 
20 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 distracts you. I have been trying my best to eat, but 
 cannot and perfectly disgusted with the eatables of the 
 saloon, good as they are, bid adieu to all, and " turn in" 
 for the night about 8 o clock. 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 THE OCEAN. 
 
 OLD OCEAN ! Here it is, surrounding me on all sides ! 
 To the limit of human vision this expanse of waters 
 is illimitable, except that it is bounded by the horizon, 
 which forever recedes as we approach it. How appal 
 lingly is the mind impressed in contemplating these huge 
 domains! What wonders lie in the world beneath 
 familiar to the monsters of the deep, but strange and 
 mysterious to us. Here too are objects of terror shoals 
 and quicksands that lie treacherously concealed, waiting 
 the behests of Fate, and the maniac fury of the Ocean to 
 give to their desolate bosoms the treasures of which they 
 are forever bereft. Our noble ship is now sailing over 
 deep valleys and lofty mountains, like an eagle in upper 
 air, and the peering eye of Imagination, which is sharper 
 than the eagle s, sees far down, dismal caverns and the 
 
22 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 pavement of human bones. Perchance there are in that 
 fathomless region those who perform the rites of Chris 
 tian burial for the poor sailor, and that his body reposes 
 in some sepulchre but ah ! it cannot be. 
 
 A life on the sea and a life on the land how striking 
 the contrast ! Reverting from the present to my child 
 hood, and from the sea to my home in the forest, I re 
 member a sailor, by the name of Lewis, who strayed 
 from the coast to my father s lodge, and who became so 
 attached to our mode of life that he lived with us three 
 or four years. When he came to understand our lan 
 guage so as to be understood in the wigwam, he told us 
 many a thrilling tale of the sea. From this stray son of 
 the ocean I gathered my reverence for the sea ; and the 
 thought of its waves throbbing upon the shore swelled 
 my heart with emotion. The one thought that has been 
 with me ever since is of its awful grandeur, and of its 
 sublime display of the Manitou who made all things. 
 
 This Lewis used to tell us of a monstrous great fish, 
 no doubt the whale and of sharks, sea-bears and mer 
 maids. Such superstitious tales of the sea found a ready 
 welcome in the wigwam of the Indian, by his warm fire 
 and hospitable board. In the winter nights, eighteen 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 23 
 
 years ago, I would sit with my chin resting on the palms 
 of my hands, and, listening to Lewis, drink in the whole 
 story of the ocean. His " yarns" were long and tough, 
 hard to digest, yet I believed all he said, for his sage 
 pipe, added to my veneration for age (for his locks were 
 white and he had trod for years the hard path of experi 
 ence), gave me the most implicit confidence in him. 
 These tales, wakened to life by the sea-breeze, are now 
 crowding in my head but where is the sea-monster ? 
 Stop ! be patient ! we shall see the father of black fish 
 by-and-by. 
 
 The second day out. No wind of any account the 
 sky is clear the sun s heating rays pour on our deck 
 deep waves roll onward and before us, as if they feared 
 to be overtaken our foaming track stretches like a fur 
 row over the field of waters Our vessel rolls heavily 
 onward, the arms of iron clashing below the deck, and 
 the wheels thundering their revolutions through the 
 foaming billows Our bow now rising and bowing ma 
 jestically, and now see-sawing over the ridge of a moun 
 tain wave. delightful ride, were it not for sea-sick 
 ness ! What indescribable misery does this single word 
 impart ! It is as if a dozen live chickens were fighting 
 
24 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 in you, or dancing a half-civilized polka. Imagine this, 
 and you will have a good idea of sea-sickness. But 
 enough of this, for it is now comparatively calm, and 
 our company one by one ascend the quarter-deck to 
 promenade with zigzag steps. 
 
 " A whale on the starboard side !" sang out one of 
 the crew. There, sure enough, at more than two miles, 
 distance, the spray rose at intervals, and long did I 
 watch it, and not till it had passed from sight did I 
 begin to realize that I was on the ocean, where there are 
 monsters that play with the waves as if they were the 
 ripples of a lake. Then again Lewis s " sea yarns" 
 came trooping around me, and the sight I had just be 
 held gave fresh coloring to his pictures. 
 
 The fourth day. Still the wind is fair ; our sails in 
 full stretch the waves rise higher and higher a mo- 
 notorious life in a very small kingdom is that on shipboard 
 yet we have here the Scotchman s " war-whoop," the 
 bagpipe, squeaking most delightful music. The young 
 man himself who greased the wheels of Time by opening 
 and shutting his arms over the bag of wind, apparently 
 enjoyed the sound : and certainly those who can find 
 something to admire in this, have more discrimination 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 25 
 
 than I am possessed of. Up and down he trod the 
 quarter-deck, treading out his music and smiling at his 
 fine performance ogling and squinting, and laughing 
 expressively at one corner of his mouth. This is what 
 our backwoodsmen would call a big-horned music. But 
 it is a good music when nothing else can be got ; and 
 thankful we are to enjoy it. 
 
 It is night again, and the bright-eyed stars one by one 
 peer out, beholding themselves reflected in the sea. I 
 stand on the stern of the boat, and whole worlds mirror 
 their bright faces on this ocean. There goes a shooting 
 star ! and along its fiery track lies a trail of glory, 
 dying behind it. It is gone ! but where ? Why did the 
 never-dying stars tremble as it passed ? 
 
 I was taught in the woods that these bright stars were 
 the homes of the good and the great that each one was 
 a representative of some hero of former ages, whose vir 
 tues shone in the skies according as he had done on 
 earth. If so which of these represent a Howard, a 
 Raikes, a Calvin, a Luther, a Wesley, and a Wash 
 ington ? In deeds of virtue God is the Sim, and others 
 appear, only when He is the centre of attraction. The 
 sun has gone down in the west, carrying comets in his 
 
26 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 fiery bosom, but in a few short hours he will ascend the 
 eastern skies, and glory will spread over the sea, and the 
 rolling billows will shout his welcome. What a journey 
 will the earth have accomplished in a few short hours ! 
 
 But what is this compared with the speed of the 
 mind ? Give lightning the start by a million of furlongs, 
 and the mind will be the first to reach its destination. It 
 is itself a universe of stars, and of these there is a polar 
 star by which in this world it guides its frail bark over 
 the ocean of life. As the speed of a body may be so great 
 that the distance over which it passes is imperceptible, 
 so it is with the mind. In the twinkling of an eye it 
 travels to whatever part of creation it pleases and the 
 eye of the mind possesses magnifying powers that no dis 
 tance can elude. 
 
 I have no doubt but that at this very moment Dr. Dick 
 and Dr. Nichol are travelling from star to star with their 
 telescopes. I have learned from these star-gazers much 
 useful reflection. These rolling wheels, which are a fee 
 ble representation of the revolving spheres, say I shall 
 yet see them in the old world. Like a child I would sit 
 at their feet and learn wisdom. A few hours ago I felt 
 nothing but the monotony of the scene now, new beau- 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 27 
 
 ties are seen in every spray and new glories in the sky. 
 This is the very place where one can realize something 
 on which the soul can live. Say what you will, I feel 
 like a man. The ocean has turned slave, and bears us 
 on its back to a distant land. The mightiest element is 
 conquered by man, and its waves in humiliating agony 
 die groaning at his feet. I feel a more vital current 
 running through my veins when I reflect that some part 
 of me is immortal. What if fleets and navies are some 
 times engulphed in the sea, and thousands go down to 
 people its caverns, the mind, the soul, yet lives, and 
 must live on though the last billow should howl its wail 
 of woe for the expiring stars. Every strip of sail, every 
 rope, every spar, and every revolution of the paddle, 
 echoes the sentiment that man is immortal. Every 
 breath of steam and every clash of polished steel in this 
 wonderful machine that is urging us onward, tells me 
 that man alone is next to God. The forests may wave 
 their heads, and the mighty rivers may roll on, singing 
 their songs of exultation yet are they but the emblem 
 of human majesty and greatness. The mountains may 
 rise to the sky, or pierce the home of the Great Spirit 
 yet man is the one for whom this world is made, and 
 
28 EUKOPEAN OBSEKVATIONS. 
 
 who was made for a world higher than this. The ocean 
 may be his burial-place, or the wide earth may become 
 one vast cemetery, where rich and poor, master and 
 slave, civilized and savage, with friends and enemies, lie 
 side by side. No distinction now ! Sleep on, ye genera 
 tions, sleep ! Over your graves I shall yet stray. A day 
 in weeping or laughing, and then I too will haste away. 
 
 ye bright worlds that are now waiting, embrace the 
 good who are departing ! Ye stars, when ye " shout for 
 joy," say to the departing spirit, " Your toils are ended." 
 
 1 could stay in this place all night, and feast my soul 
 with contemplation. The dew and the spray are damp 
 ening the deck, the passengers have all gone to rest, and 
 
 1 too must seek my resting-place. 
 
CHAPTEK III. 
 
 THE OCEAN". 
 
 THE morning dawns but old Neptune is either asleep 
 or has gone to visit some " watering place" at the north. 
 The red-faced sun rises out of the sea, and I greet him 
 with a fraternal welcome. Majestically he ascends the 
 eastern slope, and claims the whole azure sky as his 
 kingdom. His rays are pencilled on a floating canvass 
 of clouds, which the skilful fancy would fain weave into 
 the most beautiful drapery. If Sol would only paint such 
 a picture of sea and sky on the canvass over my head as 
 I now behold ! But there is a daguerreotype of it on 
 my memory which the sun-light will not fade. 
 
 An iceberg ahead ! I have read of icebergs, but this 
 is the first I ever saw. It towers high, like the sail of a 
 ship. I cannot look at it without associating it with the 
 ill-fated " President." A thousand distressing images 
 
30 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 present themselves at the thought that she may have 
 been sunk by such an iceberg. The screams and groans 
 of the dying, mingled with the sudden letting off of 
 steam and the roaring of the waters, as she sank to rise 
 no more I will not think of it ! There was one on 
 board who stirred the souls of men with holy zeal, but 
 whose heart, burning on the altar of his God, was 
 quenched in the merciless waters. That noble soul was 
 George Cookman. Those eyes which electrified assem 
 blies with their glance, are set like stars in the ocean. 
 Those hands which with their gestures threw a magic 
 spell over the spectators, are perished forever. That 
 voice which stirred the fourtain of feeling to its very 
 depths, is hushed, and the sea-shell whispers his dirge on 
 the deep. But his memory still lives in our hearts. His 
 stirring eloquence breathes the same spirit as of yore. 
 The vestments of his high-born thoughts, and the image 
 ry with which he surrounded himself, proclaim his 
 genius. The knowledge diffused in his ardent desire for 
 the good of others, is still spreading. The ideas which 
 he awakened in the minds of others are extending them 
 selves, for as there is no bound set to the progress of truth 
 so there is no limit to the pursuit of it. Eternity must 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 31 
 
 be shortened and infinity must contract its empire, before 
 the rays of truth will cease to fly onward. The influence 
 of this one man will cause heaven to widen its domains ; 
 and like a grain falling into the earth the soul will there 
 multiply itself, having laid its body in the dust and as 
 cended to its God. 
 
 " The soul on earth is an immortal guest, 
 Compelled to starve at an unreal feast ; 
 A spark which upward tends by nature s force ; 
 A stream, divided from its parent source ; 
 A drop, dissevered from the boundless sea ; 
 A moment, parted from eternity ; 
 A pilgrim, panting for the rest to come ; 
 An exile, anxious for his native home." 
 
 It is calculated that at the close of this day we shall be 
 near the middle of the Atlantic, between the Old World 
 and the New, and then I am to read a letter which was 
 not to be opened until the first half of the voyage had 
 been accomplished. On its back was written 
 
 " To Kahgegagahbowlk, 
 
 Present. 
 
 N. B. Not to be opened and read until half-way over, 
 on his voyage to Europe. 
 
 By his friend J. S. A." 
 
32 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 I have had my curiosity excited to know what was in 
 it, for an Indian has some curiosity, though he does not 
 show it by opening his eyes and mouth unmercifully, as 
 refined and polite nations do, who have more manners 
 than the red man. 
 
 Soon after sunset I was informed that we were half 
 way over the sea, which is not what the sailor always 
 means by " half-seas-over." I walked to the bow of the 
 boat, and there stood, looking about me on all sides. Be 
 fore me, nothing could I see behind me I could see noth 
 ing but the faint track of the steamer on my right, noth 
 ing was to be seen, and on my left, there was no visible 
 object. Above me the stars shone brightly, and beneath 
 me was the dark blue sea. Here is mid ocean ; I can 
 imagine myself suspended between the Old World and the 
 New, at the distance of 1500 miles in each direction. 
 The ocean where we are now how deep it is ! How 
 is my soul oppressed with the feeling of immensity ! A 
 sea without visible limits this is something which with 
 out knowledge cannot be contemplated without terror. 
 Here is a place to think of the Great Spirit, and to feel 
 him near you. For the first time, I felt awed by the 
 thought that though man may subdue the sea, yet God is 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 33 
 
 greater than man. Like the petrel over the stormy sea, 
 man roams the ocean of life, tossed and agitated by a 
 thousand anxieties. 
 
 This is about half-way. The waves are rocking our 
 faithful boat as if they thought it might now take a little 
 rest. The sea sings a lullaby like the tree-tops in my na 
 tive forests. I dream of land again, where summer never 
 forsakes the plains, and where spring never forsakes the 
 beautiful vales. Rivers swell their tides eternally, and 
 mountains clothed in nature s own garb, lose their tops in 
 the clouds this is the land for the Indian. 
 
 " Alas that dreams are only dreams ! 
 
 That fancy cannot give 
 A lasting beauty to those forms 
 Which scarce a moment live." 
 2* 
 
CHAPTER IY. 
 
 IRISH CHANNEL AND COAST. 
 
 AWOKE and got up at 4 o clock, having slept but little. 
 The light-house appeared abreast of us, and the Cape on 
 our right. What a relief it is to see land again ! The 
 shore is barren, and the country perfectly naked. The 
 Island on our left has a house on it, and a small patch of 
 cultivated land. 
 
 The sky is hazy, and the atmosphere has a foggy ap 
 pearance. The hills on the Irish coast are desolate-look 
 ing objects. Cold Ireland ! yet aland of warm hearts! 
 A country of famine, yet full of that natural witticism 
 which makes one " laugh and grow fat." The hills ap 
 pear bold, and so naked that I shudder at the idea of liv 
 ing in such a country. 
 
 I have heard a great deal about Erin. The fortunes 
 of the Irish are as varied as those of my own people the 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 35 
 
 history of both is mostly a history of misfortunes. The 
 Irishman has nobly struggled against the tide of adversity 
 that has been bearing him downward, and though phy 
 sically defeated, he is in mind unconquered, and has still 
 a name in the world. 
 
 On our right are the hills of "ould Ireland," and we 
 are nearing the famous Giant s Causeway. The cultiva 
 ted parts of the shore appear in dots, and we are near 
 enough to see the " huts," about which so much has been 
 said in ridicule and commiseration. Pointing with our 
 spy-glass in the direction of the houses, we see men and 
 women, and children running about the huts. Spot after 
 spot is green, and the crops of the year are beginning to 
 be gathered. The fields of " Murphys," the staple food 
 of the Irish, can be seen. 
 
 What a delightful morning greets us on our entering 
 the Irish Channel! This channel I have read and 
 heard about, and now, in the many associations with 
 which it is connected in my voyage to the Old World, it 
 will never be forgotten. The channel is covered with 
 sails, and sprinkled here and there with ducks. The sky 
 is now clear as far as a sky in this country can be, for I 
 have heard much of the fogginess of Ireland. 
 

 36 EUROPEAN- OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 Looking over the hills, I say to myself, " This is Paddy 
 land !" and the very thought of Paddy is so full of drol 
 lery that I laugh outright when I think of the genuine 
 wit of the Irish. I have had in my native land, reasons 
 to thank the Irish, for when I have met an Irish gentle 
 man I have found a gentleman indeed high-minded, 
 generous, and noble ! 
 
 This is the Emerald Isle which I have seen the emi 
 grant in Canada weep for ! A love of country is in my 
 breast ! There is none so devoid of feeling but that at 
 times he sighs for home ; and in my own country I have 
 seen this people weep, wringing their hands, while they 
 talked of Cork, the scenery of Killarney, the famed 
 Blarney-stone, and a thousand other things. This people 
 have two peculiarities, wit and feeling, which together 
 make eloquence, for which they are so celebrated. The 
 heart s blood of the Irishman is warm : his passions some 
 times overrule his better judgment. There is a noble 
 daring in his nature which is not easily extinguished. 
 The sweet flower of hospitality is forever budding in his 
 dwelling, however low and humble it may be. There is 
 a queer drollery in each corner of his mouth and eyes. 
 His life is full of great vicissitudes. 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 37 
 
 This is the land which gave birth to O Connell, the 
 fiery fagot of eloquence ! His tongue fanned the fire 
 of Patriotism, and bathed a nation in tears. O Connell 
 stood pre-eminent in the British Parliament until his 
 death. When he spoke, the shaggy mane of the British 
 Lion gave evidence of the magnetism of his oratory. 
 The tears of O Connell mingled with the tears of the 
 two Houses, and of the Reporters, who could not help 
 weeping at the recital of Ireland s misfortunes. The 
 warm hearts of his people justly loved him. This car 
 ries me back to a scene which I witnessed in Canada, 
 and which, though common, made a strong impression 
 upon me. 
 
 On the afternoon of a certain day, quite late in the 
 Fall, rny father and I, being on a hunting excursion, 
 paused before the cabin of a settler, and soon we heard 
 the peculiar brogue of the Irish inviting us to come in. 
 My father lighted his pipe and was going out, when the 
 man of the cabin insisted he should sit down. The 
 scanty appearance of straw in one corner told the 
 amount they had of this world s goods. " Sit down, 
 master, sit down wid me." My father took a seat, and 
 then commenced a queer conversation. From all that I 
 
38 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 could learn from my imperfect knowledge of English, he 
 was trying to impress my father with the greatness of 
 Daniel O Connell, his achievements in Ireland, and his 
 speeches in the British Parliament. My father under 
 stood only a few words of English : " no" and " yes" 
 were the only ones he used in his responses. The Irish 
 man would show how O Connell stood while addressing 
 the British Lords, and then with a significant look say to 
 my father, " You think O Connell a great man ?" My 
 father with a shake of the head answered " no," not 
 knowing which of the two words in his vocabulary 
 ought to be used. "You say no?" "Yes," said my 
 father, with a nod, very innocently confessing to having 
 used that word instead of " yes." But the enraged 
 Irishman thought all the while that my father depreci 
 ated the Statesman of his native land. " You mean 
 yes, eh?" "Yes," said my father with a smile that 
 seemed to deprecate the Irishman s vengeance ; and this 
 ended the interview, which was as warm as the heart of 
 an Irishman would admit of without coming to blows. 
 
 This incident of my boyhood rushes into my head as 
 fresh as if it had happened just now ; but at that time 
 little did I expect ever to see the land of this race of 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 39 
 
 people. Now here it is ! its cold bleak hills towering 
 above the mist which creeps along the edge of the shore, 
 and winding ravines full of huts clustering together. 
 
 Having rested but little last night, I fell asleep, and to 
 my utter disappointment when I awoke we had passed 
 the Giant s Causeway ! and I could only have a glimpse 
 of it as it receded in the distance. 
 
 Ships are seen all over the surface of the channel. It 
 is very still and calm. How aggravating it must be to 
 see us shoot by them and they almost stationary ! Vari 
 ous cities of Ireland appear on our right. The sky is 
 full of fog, and on our left we see Scotland. Numerous 
 sea-birds are flying around us. 
 
 I am determined to see the Blarney-stone some day. 
 Weary and tired though I am, and with aching eyes, I 
 must sit down to write a note to my father. 
 
 " No-say. 
 
 " Me quach ne de nain ne mah owh Monedo. Tah 
 que she non Omah. Me nwah bah me nah quod sail 
 Ewh Odah keem Ewh Me ne seno we ne neh." (I had 
 better not write this letter in Indian, on the pages of 
 this book, for fear some one will come on me for dam- 
 
40 EUKOPEAN OBSEEVATIONS. 
 
 ages for the breaking of his jaw while trying to speak 
 the words.) 
 
 THE INTERPRETATION. 
 
 " Father. 
 
 " I thank the Great Spirit that I have arrived here 
 safe. I am now in the land of the Irishman. By its 
 looks I should think it a very pleasant land." 
 
 At 2 o clock we see the Isle of Man. On our left, 
 steamboat sails in view at a distance. 
 
 5 o clock. The steamer for America is now in sight 
 Our signal hoisted, " The President is dead !" and the 
 captain of the steamer read the signal. " Sir Robert 
 Peel is dead," was the answer. 
 
 At 10 o clock we see the lights along the docks, and 
 our guns repeat the sound with which we parted from 
 the wharf of Boston, bang, bang, bang, with two 
 others added, by which the people will expect to hear 
 something more than usual by this steamer. The line 
 of lights makes a splendid appearance, and if the docks 
 are equal in extent what must I think of the commerce 
 of this city ? We dropped anchor a short time before 
 12 o clock. 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 41 
 
 This is Liverpool. 
 
 We meet some of those who preceded us to this 
 country. 
 
 Sunday morning. I hunted among those to whom I 
 carried letters for some one who would invite me to at 
 tend church with him, and was fortunate enough to suc 
 ceed. Spoke in the afternoon. Encountered a few 
 dozen beggars in the street on my way to church. I 
 find it hard to get small change for them all. 
 
CHAPTER Y. 
 
 ARRIVAL STRANGE THINGS AND PEOPLE 
 DOCKS SHIPS, ETC. 
 
 THE Liverpool Times announced my arrival in the 
 following language : 
 
 " A CHIEF OF THE OJIBWAY NATION. The steam-ship 
 Niagara, which arrived on Saturday last, brought over to 
 this country the Rev. George Copway, or Kah-Ge-Ga- 
 Gah-Bowh, a chief of the Ojibway nation. Twelve 
 years ago he was a hunter in the woods of America, but 
 having obtained his education at the expense of some 
 benevolent gentleman of the state of Illinois, during the 
 years 1838-9, he returned to his nation, determined to 
 labor for the elevation of his tribe. He has devised a 
 scheme for concentrating and civilizing the American 
 Indians of the north-west, upon territory to be purchased 
 by the free contributions of the American people ; and 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 43 
 
 we understand he intends shortly to hold a meeting in 
 this town with the view of explaining the object at 
 which he aims. He is a fine, noble-looking man, very 
 intelligent, and speaks the English language with great 
 fluency, correctness, and elegance. He purposes attend 
 ing the Peace Congress at Frankfort, and his stay here 
 will necessarily be very limited. He sat on the bench 
 with Mr. Rushton, on Wednesday last, for a short time, 
 and appeared to take great interest in the proceedings of 
 the Police Court." 
 
 To Mr. Baines the Editor of the Times, and to the 
 Editors of the other papers, I am indebted for the kind 
 manner in which they came forward to place me before 
 the citizens of Liverpool and the British public in general. 
 
 This, then, is a part of England. How crowded are 
 the streets ! What large truck horses ! with plenty of 
 omnibuses and noisy beggars ; and worse than all, the 
 shaving hack-drivers. Beardless as I am comparatively, 
 they yet manage to shave me. 
 
 Sabbath morning, I went to see the Rev. Mr. Pennell, 
 brother of a friend of mine in New York. This gentle 
 man s kindness was serviceable to me in a great many 
 ways I shall not forget it. We attended a meeting 
 
44 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 out of town in the rural district of Seacombe. The Old 
 World being new to me, my first business will be to 
 make observation of things, and to describe them as I see 
 them. Like a new being on the stage of life, I must 
 gather the materials for future reflection. I am now a 
 school-boy, and I shall study the English character, and 
 learn if possible some of its many noble qualities. 
 
 Now, after five days, gazing, I have seen something 
 of the English. How kind they are ! The name of 
 Charles Sumner, of Boston, is here justly appreciated, for 
 wherever I have delivered the letters from this gentle 
 man I have met with a cordial reception. 
 
 I am snugly housed with the Rev. G. Pennell. The 
 Mersey river sweeps before me, ebbing and flowing with 
 the sea. The view of the harbor is beautiful ! Before 
 these several items of interest grow cold I will sit down 
 and write a friend in Boston, the Rev. Mr. Norris, for I 
 must still send " paper talk" to my American friends, 
 though I am 3,000 miles from them. 
 
 LIVERPOOL, July 27th, 1850. 
 My Dear Friend : I am now in a strange place. 
 
 The country, the people, and the places are strange. 
 The sky is strange indeed the waters before my win- 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 45 
 
 dow roll with strange rapidity. The steamboats look 
 strange, black, miserable things the wretched ferry 
 boats are the worst things of all. 
 
 The recollection of the ocean is grateful to me, for 
 never did I dream that I should ever have such a pleas 
 ant journey over the " big waters" as I did. Fair 
 winds, clear skies, and no rolling sea calm as the wa 
 ters of our dear " Hudson," that beloved river, which 
 winds along (as Byron said of such scenery,) 
 
 " In the wild power of mountain majesty." 
 
 The Port of Liverpool. From my window I can see 
 a thousand ships. They appear like forest trees, their 
 masts towering between me and the great city. The 
 tide, rising higher here than in America, rolls in and out 
 rapidly before me, and the diversity of ships sweep in a 
 mighty phalanx, on each side of the river. I can see all 
 kinds of boats, from a yawl to a steamship. The steam 
 boats run here on these waters nearly as often as our 
 omnibuses in the streets of Boston. But how wretched 
 they are ! no cover overhead at all. The rain comes 
 down without mercy, and the rain here is dirty and 
 smoky enough. 
 
46 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 The port is admirably well calculated to accommodate 
 several thousand ships more. The flags of all nations 
 appear here, and none wave more proudly than " the 
 stars and stripes." These flash from sea to sea, and roll 
 on, over every wave. One half the commerce is under 
 the flag of America. 
 
 We brought the news of the death of the President 
 of the United States, into this country. The next day 
 all the American ships had their flags half-mast, and the 
 papers from all the principal towns of the kingdom are 
 filled with regrets at his departure. He seems to have 
 been esteemed very highly in this country all creeds 
 speak well of him. Great anxiety is felt as to what 
 course Mr. Fillmore will take with reference to the ex 
 citing questions of the day. 
 
 The Docks of Liverpool. Of the celebrity of these 
 you have already heard. They are a piece of master 
 workmanship a noble monument of untiring industry. 
 The tide brings in a hundred ships inside, and when it 
 goes out, it takes with it as many more. There, within 
 the reach of the streets which run from the town into 
 the river, are hid secure the ships which have braved 
 the oceans of all quarters of the world. Here, now, as 
 
EUKOPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 47 
 
 if weary of wandering by sea, slumber the god-like in 
 struments of navigation. I can hear the peculiar cry of 
 the sailor, now while I write. 
 
 I felt so small when the captain told us that we were 
 about half-way over the sea. What ! nothing around 
 us but the blue, clear sky, and the mighty caverns be 
 neath us ! To be suspended thus, is not so pleasant. 
 But, how secure did I feel there, when I knew that 
 God was near ! His arms were around us. We shall 
 praise him. 
 
 The town of Liverpool is a rusty-looking place at 
 first ; but the better acquainted you are with the place, 
 the better you like it. The streets are mostly narrow, 
 compared with ours in America. Liverpool appears to 
 be almost as large as New York. 
 
 The town police is a well-regulated arrangement. 
 The policemen march to duty just as the soldiers do. 
 They wear black clothes, high hats and glazed at the 
 rim. There must be several thousands of them, for they 
 appear to be in every place. The smoke of the town, or 
 in fact of the whole country, is like the smoke of Pittsburg. 
 
 I have just commenced with the JJinglish, in receiv 
 ing their hospitality, having already been in the country, 
 
48 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 to the mansions of these Liverpool merchants. I find 
 everything in a tasteful order the parks, gardens, 
 hedges, ponds filled with fish, &c., are all in array, as 
 it were, to entice the very angels from the skies. 
 
 My cause is here warmly advocated by the papers, 
 and I hope to realize the whole of what I had anticipa 
 ted from these noble English people. I meet with no 
 thing but kindness. I expect to deliver an address be 
 fore the Mayor and merchants, at 11 o clock, A. M., on 
 Monday, and lay my plan before the people, at the 
 Merchants Exchange Rooms. 
 
 The Peace Congress does not meet until the 22d of 
 August, and I shall visit Manchester and London before 
 then. Afterwards I go to Glasgow and Edinburgh, and 
 devote two weeks to France. It is my present purpose 
 to return in November. 
 
 I have only written about the port, docks, town, &c., 
 without much about the people. I must reserve that 
 for another time. 
 
 My dear friend, do enjoy America while I am away for 
 me too, will you ? and I will see all the sights in Europe 
 for you, in exchange. Farewell ! Yours faithfully, 
 
 [G. COPWAY, Ojibway Nation. 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 49 
 
 The common things which interest and arrest one s 
 attention are numerous the town enveloped in smoke ; 
 the docks stretching away for over six miles ; the ferry 
 boats, smoky, black and dirty no covers to them. The 
 rain is suffered to come down without any conscience on 
 the heads of old and young, and the soot falls on your 
 linen, or on your face, until you make beautiful, fine, 
 delicate streaks across your cheeks and nose in wiping 
 the sweat from your forehead. 
 
 I see much form and order in everything which con 
 cerns the conduct of the people. Every lamp-post must 
 have a guard, as if it were an object of great interest 
 and importance, and every corner is more or less favored 
 with the presence of a policeman. 
 
 None of the well-informed have the impudence which 
 shows itself in asking endless questions. All the impu 
 dence of the country seems concentrated in the street- 
 beggar, who is the very personification of this questiona 
 ble virtue. These scape-goats from Purgatory have for 
 nearly a week watched the door of the Waterloo Hotel. 
 They know where green ones resort, and there they 
 gather together like silk-worms on a mulberry. How 
 gracefully they doff their hats ! with what mock reve- 
 
50 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 rence they uncover their heads ! They bend the knee 
 for a " Penny, please, sir !" Having received one, anoth 
 er comrade is sent on the same errand, until you have 
 given pennies to a company of a dozen beggars, and this 
 only sharpens their appetite. To get rid of this human 
 ity in rags I gave away many a penny when I landed, 
 but this only brought more. 
 
 The Waterloo House, the Adelphi, and other large 
 Hotels, are guarded for the special accommodation of the 
 rich by enormous charges. Although I have nothing to 
 say in favor of this, I can assure any of our Americans 
 travelling this way, that they will find all things right 
 at the Waterloo, and the keeper, Mr. Lynn, a fine- 
 hearted gentleman. 
 
 My experience has taught me that Hotel servants in 
 this country are constant plagues. I am resolved not to 
 be annoyed by them. If any charges for servants are to 
 be made I mejan to have it included in the Bill for 
 when you call for your bill the charge is made out for 
 lodging and meals only. Then come the servants like a 
 regiment of starved turkeys clamoring for food. First the 
 Porter, with an air of dignity, 
 
 " Please remember the Porter, sir." 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 61 
 
 How much ? 
 
 " 25. Qd. sir." (about 62 cts.) Paid. 
 
 "Please remember the Chamber-maid, sir," says 
 another. 
 
 How much ? 
 
 " I get 2s. 6d. sir." Paid. 
 
 " Please remember the Bootblack, sir." 
 
 How much ? 
 
 2s. $[i."Paid. 
 
 " Please remember the Errand-bay" says a boy, 
 touching his cap. 
 
 How much ? 
 
 " 2s. sir." Paid. 
 
 Here comes a man with a whip in his hand, and 
 touches his cap to his forehead. 
 
 " Please pay for Z lo looking at my carriage /" 
 
 Job is said to have had a greal deal of patience, but sure 
 I am he never was in England. 
 
 Were I allowed to give advice to these Hotel keepers, 
 I would say, " When you make out your bills, put in 
 your charge for Servants hire and all, and do not trouble 
 us Americans with such intrusions, for our time is pre 
 cious." 
 
CHAPTEK VI. 
 
 THE PEOPLE TOWN COUNTRY. 
 
 ON Sabbath last, in the morning, I first saw Liverpool. 
 I have since visited the docks, public buildings and in 
 stitutions. One week has nearly elapsed, and I am an 
 nounced to speak twice on Sunday, the 29th, which is 
 to-morrow. 
 
 Mr. Richard Rathbone and his brother, the ex-mayor 
 of Liverpool, have been unremitting in their kind atten 
 tions to me. I shall never forget the beautiful country 
 residences of these gentlemen. The wild woods of 
 " Woodcote" shall ever have a place in my memory. 
 There I have just been entertained in company with the 
 chief magistrate of Liverpool, E. Rushton, and four or 
 five counsellors-at-law. The lovely pond girded with 
 grass and shrubbery, the beautifully shaded walks, the 
 exquisite flowers how shall I begin to describe them ? 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 53 
 
 My friend Richard Rathborie s house is in the centre of 
 this lovely little kingdom. On Thursday evening I stood 
 amid the foliage of the trees and saw the sun sinking in 
 the midst of gorgeous clouds, its golden rays reflected on 
 the sky and the scenery around me, and then I realized 
 the appropriateness of a description that had before been 
 only a picture in my imagination. 
 
 " How soft the green bank sloping down from the hill 
 To the spot where the fountain grew suddenly still ! 
 How cool was the shadow the long branches gave 
 As they hung from the willow, and dipped in the wave ! 
 And then each pale lily, that slept in the stream 
 Rose and fell with a wave, as if stirred by a dream." 
 
 I left a delightful reality for a remembrance when the 
 carriage drove me away from this place. May the sun 
 shine of heaven ever rest upon it. 
 
 Next day, I must go and visit the family of William 
 Rathbone, the ex-mayor. In the lovely spot where I 
 shall see them, the flowers and shrubbery of all lands are 
 growing. " Green Bank" how appropriate the appella 
 tion ! Here we must feast again, I suppose : the very 
 thoughts of such a groaning board makes me groan in 
 wardly, and the recollection of such fearful inroads upon 
 
54 EUEOPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 the dainties of the table gives me a leaning in that di 
 rection. 
 
 A Reverend gentleman dined with us, and my fondest 
 anticipations as to the dinner were fully realized. After 
 enjoying a walk about the grounds I had reluctantly to 
 leave, for other engagements. Mr. Rathbone is truly one 
 of nature s noblemen. 
 
 The Liverpool Standard, on Thursday morning, an 
 nounced our presence and arrival, as follows : 
 
 "AN INDIAN CHIEF. By the Niagara steam-ship, an 
 Indian chief of the Ojibway nation, named Kah-ge-ga- 
 gah-bowkh, arrived in this town. He is on his way to 
 the Peace Congress, at Frankfort, and will only make a 
 short stay in Liverpool. His adopted name is George 
 Copway. We were yesterday introduced to him, and 
 found him a very intelligent man. His complexion is of 
 course rather dark, and his hair long and black, and he 
 is a tall, well-proportioned, and handsome man, with the 
 manners and graceful dignity of a perfect gentleman. 
 We hail his presence amongst us as a token of spreading 
 intelligence among the North American Indians. We 
 give in another column a well- written poem composed for 
 Mr. Copway and recited by him on board the Niagara. 
 
GEORGE U O P W A 
 
 (KAn-GE-GA-fJAH-BOWH 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 55 
 
 We may also mention that we had placed in our hands 
 two volumes from the pen of our North American friend, 
 one of his own life, entitled, History of a Child of the 
 Forest, and of his Nation, and the other a poetic sketch 
 of the bravery and prowess of the Ojibway nation. 
 Both works proclaim their author to be a man of close 
 observation, of original thought, and of sound judgment." 
 
 I have learned that the Peace Congress does not sit 
 until the 22d, 23d, and 24th, of next month ; and now I 
 shall have a little time to visit the different towns. I 
 will have one invariable set of rules to observe wherever 
 I shall be during my stay in this country and it is this. 
 
 I will uphold my race I will endeavor never to say 
 nor do anything which will prejudice the mind of the 
 British public against my people In this land of refine 
 ment I will be an Indian I will treat everybody in a 
 manner that becomes a gentleman I will patiently an 
 swer all questions that may be asked me I will study to 
 please the people, and lay my own feelings to one side. 
 
 Since I have to be in the country so long before going 
 to the Peace Congress, I will deliver some lectures and 
 addresses before the people, and endeavor if possible to 
 interest them in reference to the present condition and 
 
56 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 prospects of the Indian races in America, and to give them 
 some idea of what we have been doing for the civilization 
 of the Red man. 
 
 Sabbath day. I had to speak for the Rev. Mr. Hall, in 
 Birkenhead A very pleasant time the people are easily 
 affected they appear to enjoy themselves. I spoke to 
 another audience this afternoon ; and I must soon speak 
 to another. I see people flocking to the house .... Yes 
 it was crowded. A very good building, and seats cir 
 cular I hope some good is done. 
 
 One thing I have noticed with regret in this country ; 
 and that is, the agitation of the Wesleyans. There seems 
 to be a division on the subject of government and disci 
 pline of this body. Many have asked me which side of the 
 agitation I belong to. My answer has been, / know no 
 side. The church government of the Methodists in 
 England and America has been rather too coercive. Too 
 much power is lodged in the hands of the Ministers, and 
 here it has resulted in a rupture all over the country. 
 The papers are full of it ; and the organs of the two sec 
 tions show that there is a great deal of bitterness of feel 
 ing on both sides. They run one another down, while 
 each one praises itself. The struggle has commenced, and 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 57 
 
 no one can tell when nor where the controversy will end. 
 The ministers have no desire of losing their power by ac 
 ceding to the wishes of the minority. The others are 
 persevering in their demands for a reformation, somewhere, 
 for the good of the whole and English-like, one is just as 
 obstinate as the other. 
 
 One thing which seems to be a source of misunder 
 standing with them, is this the trying of members by 
 the Rules for the temporal regulation of the Church, and 
 condemning them by these rules, and thus reading them 
 out of the churches, which is said to be making the rules 
 for the better temporal government of a church, para 
 mount to the laws of God. Whether this is the case I 
 cannot say, but it is the impression I receive from all that 
 I have heard said on the subject. 
 
 I was to have given a lecture at the Commercial Sales 
 Room, but it was attended by gentlemen and no ladies, 
 or at most only two or three. The lecture was then 
 postponed, and the meeting was appointed at the Me 
 chanics Institute, where I am to deliver my next lecture. 
 
 Though I am constantly busy, time slips by me so 
 rapidly that I can accomplish but little and now for the 
 meeting. The house was crammed, and the people well 
 
58 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 packed a good room for speaking in. it is too. On Thurs 
 day morning, among the papers that noticed my lecture 
 was the Mercury. I shall give the entire report. 
 
 NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS. 
 
 Last evening a meeting was held in the Mechanics 
 Institution, to hear the Rev. George Copway, a chief of 
 the Ojibway Indians, explain his scheme for concentra 
 ting the Indians of North America on the ^northwest 
 frontier of the United States. There was a very large 
 attendance. 
 
 Mr. WM. RATHBONE occupied the chair, and after a 
 few preliminary remarks, introduced Mr. Copway to the 
 meeting. 
 
 The Rev. Mr. COPWAY then came forward, and was 
 enthusiastically received by the meeting. After some 
 introductory remarks, he proceeded to state what were 
 the causes which caused the Indians to decrease, and 
 why they had not improved. There had been an idea 
 amongst the pale faces that the Indians were a doomed 
 race : there seemed to be something over their heads, and 
 therefore they would not lift their hands to extricate the 
 Indians. One of the reasons which caused a decrease in 
 
EUEOPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 59 
 
 the number of Indians was the diseases which had been 
 introduced into their country by Europeans, such as 
 small-pox, and other diseases, which their simple medi 
 cines and limited knowledge were unable to cure ; and 
 not only had their number been diminished by disease, 
 but also by wars amongst themselves, and since European 
 arms had been introduced amongst them the mortality in 
 their affrays had been greatly augmented. The wars 
 which had taken place between the European nations in 
 America had also thinned the number of Indians. The 
 fourth cause of their diminution was the use of ardent 
 spirits, one of the greatest curses which had been intro 
 duced into their country by the white man. (Applause.) 
 He instanced two or three cases in which the most de 
 structive results had been caused to the Indians by the 
 free use of ardent spirits, and yet the white man philo 
 sophically said this was all Providence. He sometimes 
 trembled for the people of the United States, though he 
 hoped never to have the same feeling as when he was 
 on the war trail. The Indians occupied no half-way 
 ground. When they professed to be Christians they 
 would be found to be so. (Applause.) He now came to 
 the reasons why the Indians had not improved. The 
 
60 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 reasons why they had not improved were that no sooner 
 had they a school established, and they began to culti 
 vate the ground, than they were forced to give up their 
 land and go further west ; and sometimes when they re 
 fused to give up their land the most nefarious means 
 were resorted to to compel them to do so. The first 
 great reason, therefore, why they had not improved was 
 that they were not allowed to remain on their land long 
 enough. The next reason why the Indian did not im 
 prove, was that the education offered to him was not 
 suitable to his habits. They should adapt their institu 
 tions in accordance to the feelings of the Indians. The 
 Indian did not wish to be driven into anything by the 
 rod : his common sense would lead him, without being 
 driven, or being made the machine ; and this was one 
 reason why the Indian had not fallen in love with edu 
 cation. The next reason why the Indian did not improve 
 was, that the manner of introducing education to him 
 was very peculiar. The Missionary endeavored to trans 
 late English works into the Indian language, instead of 
 teaching the Indian youth the English language, and thus 
 introduce them to the broad sea of intelligence. He had 
 been overruled on this subject ten years ago ; but they 
 
EUKOPEAN OBSEKVATIONS. 61 
 
 were then beginning to see the value of his suggestion. 
 The next reason why the Indian did not improve was, 
 that the Missionaries did not take the wisest course for 
 introducing Christianity. When they sent Missionaries 
 amongst the Indians, they should teach them to love one 
 another before they went amongst them. If they did 
 this they would save a great deal of trouble ; but he 
 implored of them to send none but men who followed 
 the precepts of the Saviour, not only by preaching, but 
 by practising them from their hearts. (Applause.) 
 Above all, Missionaries should be impressed with the 
 glorious and noble principles of Christianity, and do not 
 send narrow-hearted bigots. (Applause.) He then pro 
 ceeded to state his plan for the concentration of the In 
 dians, which was that the Indians of the northwest, con 
 sisting of about one hundred thousand souls, should be 
 granted forever about 150 square miles of territory, be 
 tween the falls of St. Anthony and the West of Winoso- 
 tah, and by giving the Indians a permanent settlement 
 in this land, induce them to become farmers, and learn 
 the arts of peace and civilization. If this was not done 
 in the course of forty years there would not be a buffalo 
 left on this side of the Rocky Mountains ; and then, he 
 
62 EUROPEAN OBSERVATION S. 
 
 asked, on what would the Indians live ? If they touched 
 a herd of cattle belonging to the American settlers, the 
 war-whoop would be raised against the Indians, and they 
 would be exterminated. It was to prevent this that he 
 had brought forward this scheme. The Indian would 
 then have a home, where he could till his land and im 
 part instruction to his offspring ; fearing no removal. 
 When he had the fee simple of this land he would feel 
 himself treated as a man, and he would act as a man. 
 (Applause.) The Indian would then be no longer a 
 trouble. It might havebeen thought presumptuous in him 
 to start such a scheme, but when he saw his brethren 
 being destroyed by inches, he could not hesitate to offer 
 himself as a sacrifice for his brethren ; and he had como 
 to England, not to get an expression of feeling all over 
 the country, or for the purpose of raising their noble pa 
 triotism to urge on the Government of America ; he 
 would rather not receive a gift from any one having a 
 feeling of this sort. (Hear.) He wanted the people 
 to know the real position of the Indian, and he wanted 
 the parents of every child of the Great Spirit to w r hisper 
 to them to pray for the poor Indian, that God might 
 shower his mercies on him, and that, when the poor In- 
 
EUKOPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 63 
 
 dian warrior died, he might see his children mounting 
 their way up the high hill of noble greatness, and that 
 when he died he might wake in a world of endless 
 bliss in the skies. In prosecuting this matter it re 
 quired means, and it was mainly for this purpose that 
 he wished to get the people interested ; and if he could 
 get, say 2,500, which he expected to do during the 
 coming Congress, in the month of December, he would 
 return to Washington again, and he intended to send 
 out three of his brethren to deliver addresses through 
 out the country, and at the same time to have blank 
 petitions circulated, and at a certain given time, in the 
 month of January or February, he wanted to touch 
 the wires which vibrated from one end of the country to 
 the other, he wanted to besiege the white house of the 
 Government of the United States, and knock at the door 
 of the American Government, that justice might be done 
 to the Indian by giving him a home from which he shall 
 never be removed again. (Applause.) After referring 
 to the kindness which he had experienced at the 
 hands of Mr. Richard Rathbone, and expressing the 
 i pleasure which he felt at seeing so large a meeting be 
 fore him, the reverend gentleman gave a very graphic 
 
64 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 and poetical description of an aged Indian, who, harassed 
 with care, addressed his children to the following effect : 
 There is no rest in this country ; the white man is 
 come, and he is powerful. There is only one place be 
 yond the setting sun. You will soon see me die. The 
 lecturer then repeated the following lines : 
 
 I will go to my tent and lie down in despair ; 
 
 I will paint me with black, and will sever my hair ; 
 
 I will go to the shore where the hurricane blows, 
 
 And reveal to the God of the tempest my woes ; 
 
 I will for a season on bitterness feed, 
 
 For my kindred are gone to the mounds of the dead : 
 
 They died not by hunger, nor wasting decay, 
 
 The steel of the white man hath swept them away. 
 
 Mr. Copway concluded by expressing his gratitude for the 
 kindness manifested by the Liverpool public, adding that 
 whatever donations any persons might think proper to 
 present, in support of the cause, they would be thankfully 
 received. A friend, in this town, told Mr. Copway that 
 he would give 25 towards the object, and wished it 
 every prosperity. The reverend lecturer was listened 
 to with breathless attention, and resumed his seat amid 
 the most deafening applause. 
 
 The CHAIRMAN said, that after the very excellent ad 
 dress they had heard, there must be shown something 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 65 
 
 more substantial than clapping and cheering. He also 
 stated that it should be understood that with the general 
 treatment of the Americans towards the Indians they had 
 nothing to do. After a powerful appeal, from the chair 
 man, urging individuals to come forward and contribute 
 their mite towards so philanthropic an object, many per 
 sons responded to the call, and their names were entered 
 on the subscription list. 
 
CHAPTEE VII. 
 
 HISTORICAL NOTICES OF LIVERPOOL. 
 
 [These notices are gathered from a small volume Black s Rail 
 way Map.] 
 
 LIVERPOOL, the second city in the kingdom of Great 
 Britain, is situated on the right side of the Mersey. A 
 castle is said to have been built here by Roger of Poic- 
 tiers, which was demolished in 1659. St. Georges 
 Church now stands on the site. During the civil wars, 
 Liverpool held out against Prince Rupert for a month, 
 but at last it was taken, and many of the garrison and 
 the inhabitants were put to the sword. The town was 
 very soon after retaken by Colonel Birch, and continued 
 to remain true to the popular cause. 
 
 Liverpool was merely a chapelry attached to the parish 
 of Walton, till the reign of William III., and in 1G50 
 there were only fifteen ships belonging to the port. 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 67 
 
 It was deeply engaged in the African slave-trade ; and 
 in 1764, more than half this trade was carried on by the 
 merchants of Liverpool. 
 
 Since the great extension of the Cotton Manufacture, 
 it has become the port where the great bulk of the raw 
 material is received, and whence the exports of manufac 
 tured goods are chiefly made to all parts of the world. 
 It also enjoys a very large proportion of the trade between 
 England and Ireland, especially since the employment of 
 steam-vessels for the conveyance of merchandise. 
 
 Liverpool is supposed to possess one-twelfth part of the 
 shipping of Great Britain ; one-fourth part of the foreign 
 trade ; one-sixth part of the general commerce ; and one 
 half as much trade as the port of London. The custom 
 dues are between four and five millions sterling ; the 
 Cotton imported reaching a million and a half of bags. 
 The imports are about twenty inilions in value, the ex 
 ports exceeding that sum by a fourth, and it is calculated 
 that 1600 tons of goods pass daily between Liverpool and 
 Manchester. About two fifths of the tonnage inwards 
 and outwards are engaged in the trade with the United 
 States. Considerable traffic is also carried on with the 
 West India Islands, Brazil, and other parts of South 
 
68 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 America, and the East Indies. Its intercourse with Ire 
 land is about equal in amount with that kept up with 
 every port in Great Britain. The inland trade of Liver 
 pool is much assisted by means of canals and railways, 
 and it has benefited more than any port in Great Britain 
 (London excepted) from the application of steam power 
 to navigation. The docks are constructed on the most 
 stupendous scale. They consist of wet, dry, and graving 
 docks, and are connected with wide and commodious 
 quays, and immense warehouses. The wet docks occupy 
 a water superficies of 90 acres, 3384 yards, and the quays 
 measure 7 miles 156 yards in length. 
 
 Until about fifty years ago, the streets of Liverpool 
 were narrow and inconvenient, and the buildings devoid 
 of architectural beauty, but successive improvements 
 have given to the town an elegance not to be met with 
 in any other commercial port in the kingdom. The most 
 important public buildings are, the town hall, the ex 
 change building, and the custom house. The town hall 
 is a handsome Palladian building, surmounted by a dome, 
 which is crowned by a statue of Britannia. It contains 
 a number of portraits, and a statue of Roscoe, by Chantry, 
 and on the landing of the staircase there is a statue of 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 69 
 
 Canning 1 , by the same artist. The interior of the town 
 hall, besides the rooms on the basement story, contains a 
 saloon, two drawing rooms, two ball rooms, a banqueting 
 room, and a refectory, the whole elegantly fitted up. 
 
 The Exchange buildings form three sides of a square, 
 in the centre of which is a group of statuary, in memory 
 of Nelson, executed by Westmacott in 1813. The new 
 custom house, by far the finest building in Liverpool, 
 both in magnitude and architectural execution, contains 
 also the post office, the excise office, the stamp office, the 
 dock treasurer s and secretary s offices, the board room 
 and offices of the dock committee. 
 
 At the junction of London Road and Pembroke Place, 
 there is an equestrian statue of George III., by West 
 macott. 
 
 St. James Cemetery was once a quay of red stone, and 
 consists principally of catacombs. On the summit of the 
 rock, near the entrance, is a beautiful chapel, containing 
 some good sculpture. Here the late Mr. Huskisson was 
 interred, and a monument to his memory has been placed 
 over the spot, with a statue of fine white marble, habited 
 in a toga. 
 
 Liverpool contains thirty-two places of worship con- 
 
70 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 nected with the Establishment, and fifty-nine belonging 
 to the Dissenters of various denominations. There are 
 in Liverpool, 75 Sunday Schools, with 16,000 scholars; 
 43 evening Schools, with 548 scholars ; 648 day Schools, 
 with 28,916 scholars; there are 13 Medical charities, 12 
 provident, and 23 religious. There are 15 literary insti 
 tutions, 12 places of public amusement, and 10 prisons. 
 Among the literary institutions may be mentioned the 
 Royal Institution, formed in 1814 by Mr. Roscoe the 
 Literary and Scientific, and Commercial Institution set 
 on foot in 1835 the Mechanic s Institution, opened 
 in 1837 the Liverpool Institution of Fine Arts the 
 Atheneum the Lyceum the Collegiate Institution, &c. 
 
 The markets of Liverpool are very remarkable struc 
 tures ; that of St. John occupies nearly two acres of 
 ground, the whole under one roof, supported by 116 
 pillars. 
 
 The Zoological Gardens comprise ten acres of ground, 
 and are laid out with a great degree of taste. 
 
 The manufactures of Liverpool are not important. 
 There are several sugar refineries, some small foundries, 
 a good deal of ship building in wood and iron, a man- 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 71 
 
 ufactory of steam engines, anchors, chain cables, and 
 similar articles naturally demanded in a large port. 
 
 The value of the corporation estates is estimated at 
 three millions of money, and the annual income derived 
 from rent and dock dues has increased to upwards of 
 320,000. A great proportion of this income has been 
 devoted to the improvement of the town, including the 
 building of churches and other public edifices. The sum 
 expended in these objects and in widening the streets be 
 tween 1786 and 1838 amounts to 668,300. 
 
 The site of Liverpool is low and unhealthy. Accord 
 ing to the Registrar-General s returns of births and 
 deaths, the deaths and marriages are double, while the 
 births are little more than half the numbers of the 
 averages of all England. 
 
 In 1700 the population of Liverpool was 4240. In 
 1841 it was 223,003. It returns two members to Parli 
 ament. 
 
 The country around Liverpool abounds in every direc 
 tion with fine residences. Of these the most important 
 are, Knowsley Hall (Earl of Derby); Croxteth Park 
 (Earl of Sefton) ; Ince Blandell, the seat of the Blandell 
 family ; Childwall Abbey (Marquis of Salisbury) ; Speke 
 
72 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 Hall (Mr. Watt) ; Hall Hall (Mr. Blackbune) ; Wool- 
 ton Hall, &c. 
 
 At Everton is the cottage where Prince Rupert estab 
 lished his head-quarters when he besieged the town in 
 1644. 
 
 On the morning of July 31st, Mr. Pennell took me to 
 the Mayor, and Sir Elkanor Ermatage. 
 
 Manchester, as its name shows (Man-castra) was a 
 Roman station, and is supposed to have taken its rise in 
 the reign of Titus. Under the Saxons it became the 
 abode of a Thane. After the Norman Conquest, Wil 
 liam gave the place to William of Poictou. The ba 
 rony descended to the Grelleys, and the De la Warres, 
 and at length the Manorial rights became vested in the 
 family of Mosley. In the civil wars, Manchester ranged 
 itself on the side of Parliament, and sustained a siege 
 conducted by Lord Strange, afterwards Earl of Derby. 
 
 Manchester was distinguished for its manufactures so 
 early as the times of Edward VIII. and Edward VI. 
 At first the woollen was the only branch of trade ; but 
 since the middle of the last century, the cotton business 
 has taken the lead, and Manchester has now become the 
 centre of that manufacture. Of late the spinning and 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 73 
 
 weaving of silk have been introduced, and the printing 
 and *dyeing of silk are also extensively carried on in this 
 town. 
 
 The manufacture of machinery has risen to great im 
 portance and perfection in Manchester, and it has also 
 manufactures of linen, small-wares, hats, umbrellas, &c. 
 Its commerce is greatly aided by its communications 
 with almost every part of England, by means of rail 
 ways and canals. The district in which the town 
 stands contains some of the best coal strata in England ; 
 a circumstance to which the place is indebted in no 
 small degree for its prosperity. One of the most inter 
 esting buildings in Manchester is the Collegiate Church, 
 a noble Gothic building, containing several chapels and 
 chantries, a richly ornamented choir, a number of mon 
 uments, &c. It was built in 1422. The reputed foun 
 der was Thomas Lord De la Warre, but several other 
 persons assisted in building it. Considerable additions 
 were made in the sixteenth century, and many altera 
 tions and additions are of recent origin. 
 
 Of the numerous chapels, all but one are private 
 property. The chapel of the Derby family is that 
 which possesses the greatest share of historic interest. 
 
74: EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 St. Mary s chapel contains several interesting monuments 
 of the family of the Chathams ; and the Trafford chapel, 
 in addition to the memorials of the ancient family from 
 which it takes its name, possesses a very handsome mon 
 ument to the memory of Dauntsey Hulme, Esq., a dis 
 tinguished philanthropist. There are a considerable 
 number of other churches in Manchester, and the 
 church-building society has been formed to promote ad 
 ditional church accommodations. The Dissenters have 
 also numerous places of worship, and Manchester has 
 been long distinguished as possessing a greater dissenting 
 population than ariy other town in the kingdom. 
 
 The ecclesiastical government of Manchester was for 
 merly vested in the warden and four fellows of the Col 
 legiate Church, subsequently elevated to the rank of a 
 cathedral. 
 
 The first bishop was consecrated in 1847. The free 
 grammar school of Manchester was founded in the early 
 part of the fifteenth century by Hugh Oldham, Bishop 
 of Exeter, and is very richly endowed, but is far from 
 effecting the good which its splendid resources might pro 
 duce. 
 
 Chetham s Hospital, or the College, was originally 
 
EUEOPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 75 
 
 founded by the De la Warres in the reign of Henry VI. 
 After the dissolution, it became the property of the 
 Derby family, and was purchased from the celebrated 
 Countess of Derby, in compliance with the will of 
 Humphry Chetham, an eminent merchant, for the pur 
 pose of forming a blue-coat hospital and library. This 
 institution provides for the education and support of 
 eighty poor children. The library consists of about 
 25,000 volumes, and there is an annual provision for its 
 augmentation. The inhabitants of the town are allowed 
 free access to it under certain regulations. The educa 
 tional institutions in Manchester have been defective 
 both in number and quality, but great exertions are now 
 making to extend the benefits of instruction to all classes 
 of the community. 
 
 There are two Mechanics Institutions in the town ; 
 several Lyceums ; an Institution called the Athenaeum, 
 a Literary and Philosophical Society, numerous charita 
 ble institutions, &c. The other public buildings worthy 
 of notice are, the Exchange, the Infirmary, the Society 
 of Arts or Royal Institution, the Town-Hall, the two 
 Theatres, the new Museum of Natural History, the New 
 Bailey Prison, Manchester Commercial Rooms, &c., &c. 
 
76 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 A Botanic Garden was formed here in 1830. There are 
 five railways diverging from Manchester, which furnish 
 the town with the greatest facilities for extending its 
 trade, viz. Liverpool, Leeds, Bolton and Bury, Birming 
 ham and Sheffield Railways. The immense mills, 
 workshops and foundries well deserve a visit from the 
 tourist. Manchester returns two members of Parlia 
 ment. Its population is 163,856. 
 
CHAPTEK VIII. 
 
 COMMENCEMENT OF TRAVEL. 
 
 THIS morning I find good Lessons from the following, 
 which will be useful alike to all travellers as it will be 
 to me. And here it is from Mr. Black s Railway Guide. 
 
 He says, 
 
 " Pack up your luggage in such order that you can 
 readily carry with you the small matters you may want 
 on your journey, or immediately on your arrival ; let the 
 rest be put in such trunks, cases, boxes, or other pack 
 ages as will either effectually protect it, or show at first 
 sight that it must be handled carefully ; remembering 
 that, at railway stations, a great deal of business must 
 be done in a little time, and therefore luggage, which 
 seems able to bear it, sometimes gets rough usage. 
 
78 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 Let your name and destination appear legibly on your 
 luggage ; and if you wish to be safe against all chances 
 of loss, put your name and address inside also of each 
 package. Picture to yourself your trunk lying on the 
 road, left in the corner of an office, or sent out to a 
 wrong direction, and imagine what you would then wish 
 should be on or in it, that it might be correctly and 
 speedily sent to you. What you would then wish you 
 had done, do before you start. Let the label be of a 
 strong material, and firmly attached to the package. 
 
 Be at the station some minutes before the time ; if 
 you do not resolve to be so, expect to see the train on its 
 way without you. 
 
 Get your ticket (by paying your fare), and be careful 
 to understand exactly how far that ticket frees you. On 
 some railways you keep that ticket to the end of your 
 journey ; on others you are called on for it at starting. 
 In either case be ready with it, remembering that, if you 
 cannot produce it, you may be called upon to pay your 
 fare again. 
 
 See where your luggage is placed on the carriage, and 
 prefer that it should be on that in which you are to be 
 seated, if practicable ; see also that the company s ticket 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 79 
 
 or luggage number be affixed to each package, or you 
 may be called on to pay the carriage of it. 
 
 Expect to pay for the carriage of all your luggage 
 above 56 Ibs. weight. 
 
 Take the best care you can to prevent the necessity of 
 your leaving the carriage before you reach the refresh 
 ment station at the end of your journey. 
 
 Take your seats as soon as you have made all needful 
 arrangements ; you may have with you a carpet-bag, 
 hat-box, or other luggage, if it be not so bulky as to an 
 noy your fellow-passengers. 
 
 Do not open the carriage doors yourself; and do not at 
 any station, except those where refreshments are provi 
 ded, attempt to leave the carriage for any reason what 
 ever, without the knowledge of the conductor, lest you 
 be injured by some accident, or left behind. 
 
 Neither smoking nor dogs are allowed in the car 
 riages ; the latter are conveyed under proper arrange 
 ments, and at a small charge, which may easily be 
 learnt at each station. 
 
 Female attendants will be found at each terminus, 
 and at the refreshment station, to wait on ladies and 
 children. 
 
80 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 Children under ten years of age are conveyed at half- 
 price ; only infants unable to walk are carried without 
 charge. 
 
 Invalids and decrepit persons commonly receive very 
 considerate attention from the persons employed at the 
 stations and on the line ; but they must calculate on 
 none which would materially interfere with the general 
 working of the establishment, except they have expressly 
 applied for, and been assured of, it beforehand. 
 
 Carriages of various kinds, special and public, suitable 
 to the different localities, will be found at both the 
 termini, and at nearly all the stations. 
 
 On change of carriage, or leaving the train, be careful 
 to see what becomes of your luggage. >^ 
 
 Each person employed on the line has a distinguishing 
 number on the collar of his coat ; if you have any com 
 plaint to make, write to the Secretary, designating the 
 offender by his number. 
 
 Railway servants are enjoined to the observance of 
 civility and attention to all passengers, and they usually 
 fulfil these duties very cheerfully when treated with 
 common propriety. They are forbidden to receive any 
 fee or gratuity." 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 81 
 
 This I shall endeavor to follow in all my travels. 
 
 This morning I start for the metropolis. At 9 o clock 
 the cars move ; everything connected with them goes on 
 like clockwork. The depot is an iron building, covered 
 with glass. Here are men in uniform, at work ; they 
 are those who belong to the railway company. The 
 coaches are built differently from those in America. 
 They are calculated more for comfort, at least in sum 
 mer ; but in winter they must be cold, for there is no 
 place for fire in them. 
 
 The tunnel through which we pass is over a mile in 
 length, and some distance under ground. Having trav 
 ersed this artificial cave, the black iron pony starts on his 
 way to London in good earnest. Here we go ! whirling, 
 rolling, rattling, whistling, at the rate of 30 miles an 
 hour. Our conductor in uniform wears a watch, and car 
 ries in his hand a whistle. With his time-piece he reg 
 ulates his speed, and with his whistle calls out " all 
 aboard !" he speaks not, but blows his shrill whistle. 
 This I think is a very good arrangement, for many a time 
 some one speaks as loud as he, and in that case he could 
 not be heard ; but no one can imitate the whistle. This 
 therefore is much more suitable than the sailor phrase, 
 
82 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 "all aboard," to say nothing of the idea which it gives 
 to travelling in a rail-car instead of a steamboat. 
 
 But no one can stop to ruminate when being run away 
 with. Here we go ! "What a beautiful country ! I can 
 at least take a bird s-eye view of it. Groups of trees, 
 and cultivated fields spreading as far as the eye can 
 reach, on both sides. Beautiful green hedges, and fields 
 of grain, some being reaped, and some still standing, 
 waving gracefully as if inviting the reapers to the har 
 vest. There is scarcely a spot of land as far as the eye 
 can reach that is not cultivated. Wherever the English 
 man discovers land there he must have a farm. How 
 vastly superior in point of cultivation is this country to 
 America ! Were they as much superior in cultivation 
 of mind, we might be ashamed of ourselves ! Unfortu 
 nately, they who till the soil have generally little time, 
 and s.till less opportunity, for mental improvement. With 
 out this, all this landscape beauty is but an outside shell, 
 and when our country shall have become as old as Eng 
 land now is, we may excel the English in cultivation 
 and refinement. 
 
 I could wear out the points of a hundred steel pens in 
 writing the word "beautiful." The garden-like appear- 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 83 
 
 ance of the whole country ! The architectural appearance 
 of the residences, from the proud castle to the humble 
 cottage, including country seats, churches, farm-houses, 
 and every variety of shelter ! The speedy and perfect 
 arrangement of the railways, and the facility with which 
 the functions of the post-office department are carried on, 
 are surprising. When I see and think of these things, I 
 am half inclined to regret coming to this country, for 
 fear that on my return home I may not love my native 
 wilds as I did before. But whether this will be the ef 
 fect upon me I shall be able to judge better hereafter, 
 when I shall have seen other parts of the kingdom. 
 
 For two hours we have been flying like a blazing 
 comet. We have passed over a rolling country, and 
 found that there are some marshes, even here. The 
 roads traverse in all directions, and are bordered with 
 lovely cottages, through the casements of which we per 
 ceive now and then beautiful faces, looking at us as we 
 pass. The road-sides are planted with shade trees, and 
 our eyes are refreshed with the sight of orchards, giving 
 sweet promise of refreshment to the body when their 
 fruits shall have been gathered in. Much pains seems to 
 be taken in the rearing of ornamental trees, and much 
 
84 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 care bestowed in setting them out and making them sub 
 servient to art. 
 
 Look at those deep valleys ! and the hills, how lofty 
 and finely delineated ! How rich and luxuriant are the 
 gardens that beautify their sides ! But you cannot see 
 them at any great distance, for the atmosphere is 
 hazy. The people are active in their various oc 
 cupations, which in the towns we pass are generally 
 divided between gardening and some mechanical em 
 ployment. 
 
 And this is England ! the land about which I have 
 heard and read so much ! It is but a small island, and 
 I remember that when I was a young lad, away in the 
 forest, I often looked at the little spot it occupied on the 
 map, (for geographies had found their way to us), and as 
 I was told it was Great Britain, I inquired, and wondered 
 as I asked, why such a diminutive place should be called 
 " Great." I thought I might put it in my pocket, it 
 looked so portable and insignificant. But now I find it 
 large not so large in extent of territory as some coun 
 tries, but large in point of population and the intelli 
 gence of the people. Among its inhabitants are some of 
 the most distinguished teachers of the world men who 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 85 
 
 live their lives in earnest, and who will live in their 
 works for ages. 
 
 In this country I see the heart of that commerce whose 
 broad wings are spread over every country in the world. 
 It was here the Anglo-Saxon Race was cradled ; here 
 they were educated, and from this place they have gone 
 forth ; distinguished wherever they have gone, for enter 
 prise, perseverance and intelligence. These are the qual 
 ities which characterize England, and will perpetuate its 
 existence. Its power is concentrated in the intelligence 
 and education of the people, and whatever adds to these 
 will strengthen the bands that bind it, and consolidate 
 the foundation of its government. 
 
 But we are now within sight of a great city. The 
 tall black chimneys of its manufactories first attract my 
 notice ; then the lofty steeples of its churches ; its tower 
 ing, massive public edifices all are in view. Stepping 
 from the cars, I tread the streets of the great city of 
 Birmingham. 
 
 This is the head of manufactures. The steel which is 
 here made will accomplish the double work of doing 
 good and doing evil good in the way of subduing the 
 wilderness and causing it to minister to the life of man, 
 
86 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 and evil in the way of destroying life and making the 
 earth desolate. Implements of husbandry, and the arts 
 on the one hand, and swords, knives, rifles and muskets 
 on the other. 
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH OF BIRMINGHAM. 
 
 " Birmingham, a large commercial and manufacturing 
 city, is situated in the north-east corner of Warwickshire. 
 It is seventy-nine miles south-east from Liverpool, and 
 the same distance north-east from Bristol, both in a 
 straight line. As Birmingham is nearly in the centre of 
 England, its situation is elevated. The soil around it is 
 light, but has lately been much improved. The appear 
 ance of the city itself is mean ; most of the houses being 
 small and of a common class. St. Martins is the only 
 building of great antiquity. Its exterior is rather meagre, 
 having in 1690 been cased with a covering of bricks to 
 prevent it from falling. The spire alone remains in its 
 original state, a graceful monument of olden architecture. 
 The interior is grand and imposing, though disfigured by 
 a coating of plaster and tawdry ornaments. St. Philips 
 church is an elegant building, and, in the opinion of 
 many, forms the chief architectural ornament of the city. 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 87 
 
 Besides these two, there are ten churches and chapels 
 belonging to the Established Church, and forty-five Dis 
 senting Chapels, several of them elegant erections. Till 
 lately, Birmingham possessed few public buildings worthy 
 of notice, but the citizens are adding to their number. 
 The town-hall is a splendid edifice of Corinthian order, 
 the material being of Anglesea marble. Its length is 166 
 feet ; breadth 104 feet ; and height 83 feet. The Sa 
 loon, 140 feet long, 65 feet wide, and 65 feet high, con 
 tains one of the largest organs in Europe. The grammar- 
 school is a splendid Gothic edifice, designed by Mr. Barry, 
 and erected at an expense of 4000. The theatre, the 
 banks, the libraries, Society of Arts, &c., are worthy of 
 notice. The Schools in Birmingham are numerous and 
 flourishing. Among these may be mentioned the free 
 grammar-school, founded and chartered by Edward VI. 
 Its income derived from land is 300 per annum. The 
 Blue-Coat School, and the Protestant Dissenters Charity 
 School are supported by subscriptions. There are several 
 associations for moral and intellectual improvement, such 
 as a mechanics institution, possessing a library of 1200 
 volumes, the Society of Arts and a philosophical institu 
 tion. The old library contains about 17,000 volumes, 
 
88 EUKOPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 and the new library 4000 volumes. The Savings Bank 
 and provident institutions, and Societies are numerous and 
 highly beneficial. There are also many charitable insti 
 tutions well supported. The Dispensary, Humane So 
 ciety, and Magdalen Institution merit great praise. 
 From a very early period Birmingham has been renown 
 ed for its manufactures in steel and iron. This trade is 
 now carried on to an extent elsewhere unequalled. The 
 principal branches of it are, plate and plated wares, or 
 namented steel goods, jewelery, japanery, papier mache, 
 cut glass ornaments, steel-pens, buckles, and buttons, 
 cast-iron articles, guns, steam engines, &c. Birmingham 
 is connected with London and various places by means 
 of canals, and forms a centre of railway communication 
 with every part of the kingdom. 
 
 The railway from London to Birmingham, which was 
 opened in 1837, is now amalgamated with the Grand 
 Junction Line, the two forming the London and North 
 Western Railway. 
 
 Birmingham returns two members of Parliament. 
 The population in 1831 was 110,914: including the 
 suburbs 138,252. In 1841 it was 182,922." 
 
 Having touched at, Birmingham, I am still on my way 
 
EUEOPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 89 
 
 to London now rushing headlong into the base of a hill, 
 where is nothing but darkness, smoke, and noise now 
 suddenly emerging into light, pleasantness, and joy and 
 now rushing madly onward as if the old proverb, " Cau 
 tion is the parent of safety," had been entirely forgotten. 
 
 About 2 o clock, I am in the suburb station of the 
 great city of London. The people swarm like bees, but 
 there is comparatively no confusion among them. The 
 hack drivers are endowed with a most persuasive elo 
 quence, but like certain other orators there is in what 
 they say more sound than sense. 
 
 To know where I should go I stood for a while, biting 
 my lips, and leaning on one of the posts. Directly I 
 took a "bee-line" to Mr. Randall s Hotel, in King Street, 
 Cheap-side, where I have been told a great many Amer 
 icans stay. " What a sight of people !" as one of the 
 New-Englanders would say. Oxford, Holborn and Cheap- 
 side seemed to me literally crammed and suffocating. 
 Old houses, settled at the corners, but looking as if, had 
 they ever been going to fall they would have tumbled 
 long before. Antique and odd-looking edifices, smutty 
 walls, and narrow, worn-out pavements, were among the 
 first objects that presented themselves to my view. And 
 
90 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 this is London ! But I will not speak of it until I have 
 seen something of the city. The famed St. Paul s is but 
 a few steps from here. The General Post Office and the 
 Bank are near by, as well as the fine London Bridge. 
 This is the pasture of John Bull. Here are no signs of 
 French varnish, but " beef and puddings" are plenty. 
 
CHAPTEK IX. 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 My first day in the metropolis must "be set down as a 
 
 . Yesterday I did nothing, with the exception of 
 
 hunting after myself and feeling how strange it was to 
 get lost. The longer I rqde, hoping to get from one side 
 of the city to the other, and to attain a position at a dis 
 tance where I could look on, the more did it seem as if 
 there was no other end to the city. 
 
 Following the long, narrow, zigzag course of the streets 
 which met at the door of the Exchange. I had a good op 
 portunity of seeing the most ancient parts of the city. 
 
 Here is the reign of noise and confusion. Here com 
 merce centres from all countries ; and here are to be 
 seen people from all parts of the world of every color 
 and name, not excepting the copper-color. Viewing the 
 
92 EUROPEAN" OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 different parts of the city, I could perceive the gradual 
 change in the style of buildings, which here mark the 
 progress of architecture, and may be taken as a monu 
 mental history of this most beautiful of the arts. All the 
 varieties of architecture used by the Fritons, from the old- 
 fashioned gables and style of roofing, to the most ex 
 quisite compositions of Gothic, Ionic, Corinthian, &c., 
 are to be seen in London. There towers St. Paul s high 
 above the rest, and on account of the smoke of the city 
 looks as if it greeted the sky above the clouds. The 
 General Post Office is a very fine building. Here all day 
 long, including the whole twenty-four hours, can be seen 
 the coaches that convey the letters and papers of the 
 population of the kingdom. 
 
 The Postman is a man of importance. His red coat 
 makes him conspicuous, and his employment is not de 
 void of variety. He sports a whip and a horn. With a 
 blast of the latter he clears the track : to impede his 
 progress would be an insult to the Queen. He feels a 
 great deal higher than his Highness the favorite of Eng 
 land, Prince. Albert. His red coat covers all defects, in 
 his own estimation, and places him among stars of the 
 first magnitude. Yet of all men he is the most indus- 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 93 
 
 trious punctual to a minute in his going and coming 
 you can always depend on him. 
 
 Letters collected from all the surrounding region are 
 gathered into the General Post Office, and from thence 
 are sent to the sub-post-offices in various parts of the city ; 
 and so rapidly and methodically does the wheel of this 
 great machine move, that 9 o clock in the morning 
 brings you letters mailed in Liverpool the evening before, 
 and only a penny a-piece ! This cheap postage is per 
 haps the greatest blessing the British Government has 
 bestowed on its subjects. Whatever fault I may here 
 after have occasion to find with the management of 
 government affairs, let me here pay a just tribute to the 
 men who have been instrumental in bringing about this 
 great good. Such a boon should immortalize them ; and 
 doubtless it will. This is the great channel of the life- 
 blood of English prosperity, which, flowing in rivulets 
 over the country, will animate the fettered sou]s of the 
 working classes. By means of the knowledge thus re 
 ceived, they will better their own condition instead of 
 looking to the government with famished eyes for aid. 
 The information they thus obtain will give them the 
 means of living. Neither the failures of the rich nor the 
 
94 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 perilous times in the crises of commerce, will ever endan 
 ger their subsistence. Too much legislation has been al 
 ways productive of evil. The people stop sowing and 
 reaping to see what government will do, and while rest 
 ing, the seeds of discord are being sown and a harvest of 
 famine, suffering and death stares them in the face. All 
 lay the consequences at the door of the government, 
 when, if they were rightly viewed, they would be found 
 where they belong at the doors of the victims them 
 selves. 
 
 It is by teaching men to help themselves that the 
 knowledge diffused among the people will be of more 
 value than the springing of new mines of gold and silver 
 and precious stones. The railroads of England, and the 
 thousands of men who are employed in opening the gate 
 ways of light, are doing a great work. Steamboats, rail 
 roads, wires all all, are urging the " good time com 
 ing." The day-star is rising, and the glory it will shed 
 down upon the earth will gladden the homes of poverty. 
 Let it come while I live and stand over the place where 
 the child of Humanity is born, that I may aid in the 
 glad shout, " The world is free, and all nations are 
 happy." 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 95 
 
 Having delivered several letters on Thursday in the 
 West End, I soon found myself in the company of men 
 whose hearts were endowed with the genuine fire of pa 
 triotism and philanthropy. By request of Judge Rushton 
 I went to see the celebrated painter, G., in Kensington, 
 New Town. I found him in his studio tall, manly, 
 fine looking, and very graceful in his motions. From 
 thence I went to the House of Lords, where I delivered 
 my letters to lord Brougham and others, who cordially 
 received me. They introduced me to the members of the 
 House of Commons. The House Avas not half full, it be 
 ing near the close of the session, and many of the mem 
 bers having gone to Scotland on a grouse-shooting excur 
 sion. 
 
 In going to the House of Commons with Mr. Brown, 
 the member from Liverpool, I expected to see something 
 much more splendid than the Capitol at Washington. 
 
 In this I was disappointed, for I had judged of the in 
 terior of the building by the grand appearance of the 
 exterior as it stands in bold relief from the Thames 
 river. 
 
 The House of Lords is a splendid Hall full of decora 
 tions stained glass with symbolic figures and various 
 
96 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 designs. The seats are low and without backs ; and the 
 roof of the Hall is of glass. There are narrow end gal 
 leries, and seats elevated in the end near the door. 
 
 The Throne is a large chair gilded with gold. Its 
 decorations are magnificent. The curtains and carpet 
 ing most exquisite. I was seated in that part appropri 
 ated to distinguished visitors to the country, from whence 
 I could see the few visitors standing near the door. 
 Lord Brougham was then sitting as the chancellor, hear 
 ing cases. In the midst of the duties he had to perform 
 he came out first to greet us in the lobby, and ordered 
 the usher to place us in the seat most favorable for ob 
 servation. I had expected there would be much good 
 speaking ; but to my astonishment there were only two 
 Lords present. On asking why there were not many 
 more, I was told that one could sit and hear all the cases 
 that were to come before the house, and in order to ob 
 viate the predicament of speakers in saying " My Lords," 
 (using the plural,) two had to sit, and by their presence 
 justify the appellation. So, thought I to myself, that 
 poor fat man has to sit 7 hours or more to supply the s 
 to the word " Lords." This Hall is most gorgeous ; yet 
 there is but little comfort either speaking or sitting. 
 
EUKOPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 97 
 
 Having gone over the building, which is immense, 
 with Mr. Brown, of the House of Commons, we made 
 an appointment to meet him at his Hotel in the even 
 ing when we shall meet more than dozen of the most 
 influential members of the House of Commons, to dine 
 with us. 
 
 On repairing to Finton s Hotel, where Mr. Brown 
 stops, we met Mr. Wilson, Commissioner of Govern 
 ment, an M. P. with other Government secretaries, and 
 Mr. Brotherton, the vegetarian M. P. He does not look 
 like the description Sam Slick gives of a vegetarian or 
 Grahamite, when he says he is like a pair of tongs all 
 legs up to his neck which is small, and his head like a 
 round ball. This Mr. B. is quite another man so Sam 
 is mistaken for once, though he may be right in the 
 majority of cases. 
 
 Many questions were asked me at dinner which I 
 answered as well as I was able. These people know 
 how to live and well they may, for it has been a great 
 study wkh them. 
 
 5 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 
 ILLUSTRIOUS ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 ON Monday morning the London News and other pa 
 pers noticed our presence in the House of Commons on 
 Saturday. 
 
 " AN OJIBBEWAY MISSIONARY. During the sitting of 
 the House of Commons on Saturday, a stranger was ob 
 served below the bar, to whom several members paid 
 marked attention. On inquiry, we were informed it was 
 the Rev. George Copway, otherwise Kah-ge-ga-gah- 
 Bow, an American chieftain, who has visited England 
 on his way to attend the Peace Congress at Frankfort. 
 Twelve years ago he was the chief of a tribe of Ojibbe- 
 ways, and a hunter in the woods ; but having visited 
 Illinois during the years 1838 and 1839, he was educa 
 ted at the expense of some benevolent persons, and bap 
 tized, when he returned to his nation, determined to 
 
f 
 
 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 99 
 
 labor for the elevation of the Indian people. Having 
 devised a scheme with that object, he is now seeking the 
 means of carrying it out, and hopes to raise funds in Eu 
 rope for the purpose. His project is, that the Indians of 
 the northwest, consisting of about 100,000 souls, shall be 
 granted forever about 150 square miles of territory, be 
 tween the falls of St. Anthony and the west of Minasotah, 
 and by giving them a permanent settlement in this land, 
 induce them to become farmers, and learn the arts of 
 peace and civilization, and it is understood the American 
 government is favorable to the scheme. He is a person 
 of commanding presence, and speaks the English lan 
 guage fluently. During his stay at Liverpool, at which 
 port he arrived in the Niagara, two meetings were held, 
 at which he detailed his plan, but what success is to 
 attend the pecuniary part of it on this side of the Atlan 
 tic has yet to be determined." 
 
 This week I expect to have a good opportunity of ob 
 serving the speakers of the House of Commons. 
 
 One word about the Hall of this House. It is an ill-pro 
 portioned building constructed, I suppose, according to 
 rules of art, but without reference to comfort or pleasure. 
 The roof is very high, narrow and long more like a 
 
100 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 giant coffin than anything else. Benches without backs 
 like the seats of an old-fashioned country school-house. 
 
 When this Hall was building the seats were apportion 
 ed as follows Twenty inches were allowed to each 
 member. When they commenced occupying their seats 
 more than one fourth were excluded from the house for 
 the want of room, the corporation of the English being 
 upon the portly order, and ranging above the average 
 dimensions. Some whom I have seen, judging from 
 their portliness, would occupy two seats in the House of 
 Commons, for if inches are the measure of a seat which 
 a member is to occupy, the corporeal dimensions of the 
 member himself must add very greatly to his importance. 
 
 Monday, at 11 o clock, we again visited the House of 
 Commons. The speakers were Mr. Smith, one of the 
 secretaries ; Lord John Russell ; Bright ; Hume ; Cob- 
 den and D Israeli. The Bill before the House was the 
 yearly appropriation bill for the sustaining and increas 
 ing of the Armament of the country. 
 
 Here, during the time of each visit, I had a place for 
 hearing and becoming acquainted with the speakers. Ba 
 ron Rothschild s case came up, the result of which was 
 not in his favor. 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. \ :101 r 
 
 At my left he is now sitting the great banker. His 
 case is now before the House. D Israeli has just sat down, 
 after delivering a powerful appeal in his favor. They 
 are now debating the Jew Question. Mr. Rothschild has 
 been elected by the people of the city of London. But 
 because he is a Jew they question his right in the House. 
 He cannot subscribe to the oath intended for all protes- 
 tant members. 
 
 His personal appearance is elegant. He moves with 
 ease and grace no aristocratic air about him no cod 
 fish flavor. In height he is about medium. His hair 
 rather bushy ; nose, well formed. While the debate 
 goes on he leans forward and listens with the greatest 
 interest. Occasionally a smile flies over his expressive 
 countenance. 
 
 That small man is the man to whom emperors bow 
 the knee as before the God of this world. Only one or 
 two in the House have gone up to him. 
 
 Around me are some distinguished individuals of other 
 climes. They have been introduced by some member 
 of the House. 
 
 Lord John is a middle-sized person, rather lean, on 
 the Yankee order. His face indicates more energy than 
 
102 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 physical strength. He is rather quick. His features 
 are short and his nose prominent, a little above the me 
 dium size. He leans forward a little when apparently 
 unconscious of it. You naturally attach less dignity to his 
 person than to his mind. He has great penetration, but 
 lacks in power of execution. Yet he will always be 
 valued as a public servant, as one well versed in the 
 past as well as the present political history of his 
 country. 
 
 Bright rises, and there is quite a stir in the House. 
 This is in keeping with his noisy, rattling, banging mode 
 of speaking. He speaks well, and is occasionally jovial 
 and sarcastic. His person is rather tall, erect, and 
 borders on the Aldermanic. He is a shrewd politician 
 one who observes, if he does keep pace with, the pro 
 gress of the times. He watches the aspects and changes 
 in the political world as some men do the signs and vari 
 ations in the weather. He dresses plainly and in good 
 taste. 
 
 Cobden rises : This is the man whom we in America 
 have found reason to think so much about. Is that Cob- 
 den ? That one who speaks so hesitatingly and leans 
 forward? There is nothing peculiarly striking in his 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 103 
 
 person. Tall and lean his face well proportioned his 
 forehead well formed. Facts, as a certain phrenologist 
 would say, stick out like horns, and with them he does 
 more execution than the graceful delivery and fiery elo 
 quence of many another are able to accomplish. Facts, 
 solid as rocks, are the weapons he uses. The papers 
 which he holds in his left hand are like nails and spikes, 
 and his right hand is like a hammer. His speech is 
 without varnish, but his facts are so ingeniously put 
 forth, one after another, that there is a kind of magic 
 about them ; and when in the mind the scale has long 
 gone down, one asks himself, " Why does he still heap 
 up arguments, since he has gained all he desires ?" 
 And yet another comes, and another, until you wonder 
 what there is to come next. 
 
 Cobden appears to be one of those great men who in 
 the different periods of the world, and in the different 
 countries, have been created by the force of circum 
 stances. He is one who, in my humble opinion, has done 
 a great deal of good, and who will yet be a still greater 
 blessing to his countrymen, and to the world. His over 
 whelming arguments have rolled over the empire, and 
 echoed among the hills and forests of our own country. His 
 
104 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 admirers are in every State in the Union. His keen eye 
 sees with a glance the part that should next be enacted 
 on the stage of political life ; and when circumstances fa 
 vor an explosion of public sentiment, Hichard Cobden 
 is there, the champion of the people and the exponent of 
 political rights. Yesterday I heard of a circumstance 
 which heightened my admiration of the man. It was 
 this : During one of the years of agitation with reference 
 to the Corn Laws, the government finding that it could 
 hardly carry its measures through Parliament, it was 
 agreed that Richard Cobden should be offered a situation 
 in the Cabinet as one of its agents in London. The dis 
 patch which was effectually to stop the mouth of the 
 great agitator, was sent. The special messenger having 
 delivered his commission, Cobden was for days all silence. 
 Here was a fat office to secure for life, or for a great part, 
 of his lifetime. Principles and pecuniary considerations 
 were at war with each other, and the latter had the 
 honors of office on their side, which in an aristocratic 
 country are not small. The people of England arid the 
 powerful government ; the hovels of wretchedness and 
 the laurels of State, were arrayed against each other. 
 Night after night and day after day, and not a word from 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATION S. 105 
 
 Cobden. At last he declines the honors of State for the good 
 of the whole. Power and wealth cannot buy his prin 
 ciples and his love of his brethren, the laboring classes. 
 He is a promoter of the principles of Peace, of Education, 
 and of everything which makes man worthy of his Qod. 
 
 Next Thursday I take breakfast with him. Many of 
 my friends would wonder, if they knew this, why he 
 should have invited me to breakfast. With gentlemen in 
 England it is the best time to hold conversation with 
 each other, and this makes it a convenient time for him 
 to see me. But I am anticipating. 
 
 After the speech of Cobden, another arose, whose name 
 T did not learn, and the bag of wind he discharged re 
 minded me of the man who attempted to propel his ves 
 sel in a calm by means of a huge pair of bellows he had 
 placed on board. 
 
 Then came the famed protectionist, D Israeli. The 
 members of the House of Commons pay as much atten 
 tion to his speeches as the members of the U. S. Senate 
 pay to those of Henry Clay. They gathered around him 
 as soon as he commenced, and on he went with his 
 speech. He is of middle stature, rather thick-set, well- 
 proportioned head, large eyes but not particularly pene- 
 5* 
 
106 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 trating, with a contour of face uniform rather than other 
 wise. 
 
 He speaks easily but with a great deal of affectation. 
 His gesticulations are few and those very much studied. 
 The^ winding up of his speech, and the appellation, " my 
 lord," to lord John, to whom he addressed himself, was 
 done with an air of dignity, importance and respect. He 
 has less brilliancy than tact and knowledge of political 
 tactics. Policy is his creed, and he lives up to it. He 
 steps back, is silent for a while, then commences with 
 " My lord" and all this is for effect. 
 
 The personnel of D Israeli has no doubt aided him in 
 his rise in the House of Parliament. There is alway^ 
 much that is to be admired in the personal history of such 
 men. He like most men who have risen to eminence in 
 political life has gone up upon the stilts of some peculiar 
 circumstance, borne up on the wave of some popular 
 excitement. His power of speech, it cannot be denied, 
 has been a considerable cause of his success. His ability 
 to write is another. A man may be a good speaker, and 
 at the same time a very indifferent writer. To be good 
 in both these capacities he holds a power the strongest 
 of all powers, save the divine. 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 107 
 
 There is much excitement in the appeals and speeches 
 of D Israeli, and when he seats himself the applause is 
 almost deafening. I present to my readers a faithful 
 portrait of him from an original sketch. 
 
 This morning when I entered the House, I was told 
 that Lord John Russell had just entered, and having 
 seated myself, I inquired which of the crowd was the 
 lord. 
 
 " The person sitting next to the pretty Englishman on 
 the left." 
 
 " He with a black frock on ?" 
 
 " The very one." 
 
 He sat there as though he had just turned to allow us 
 a good profile view of his face. 
 
 That is the man who has been before the public so 
 long, to see and hear whom the eyes and ears of millions 
 have been engaged. His dress is plain, and without that 
 air and bearing which I thought he had, forming my 
 judgment by what I had read respecting him. 
 
 A medium-sized person lean, yet well proportioned. 
 His face open, his forehead bare and head well formed, 
 with many of its organs very fully developed. His nose 
 rather of the knife order (this is not intended for cutting 
 
108 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 satire.) His eyes large and piercing, and an index of his 
 disposition. He is easy in his manner, and at home, in 
 every position. 
 
 He appears generous to his opponents, and demands 
 like treatment in return. 
 
 When he speaks his head inclines somewhat to one 
 side, and his right hand often thrust into the folds of his 
 vest. He attempts no display of oratory. He speaks 
 plain and lays all his arguments and motives open ; at 
 tempts no concealment of plans, but marks out his course 
 and sticks to it with the tenacity of gold dust to a miser s 
 heart. 
 
 One of his Secretaries generally speaks immediately 
 after him, and it is then that Lord John is wide awake. 
 I do not mean to say that he is not at all times " wide 
 awake," but at this juncture he is more than usually so. 
 The restless hands of Hurne, Oglethorpe, disturb him. 
 
 The satire of D Israeli, the facts of Cobden, he feels 
 most keenly. They fill his seat with nettles ; but he, 
 with a true philosophic mind, admires the ingenious way 
 in which they arrange them, and though they may give 
 pain, he sits on them with some satisfaction. 
 
 Among the group who have just come to salute me in 
 
D I S R A E L I . 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 109 
 
 that part of the House which is kindly allotted to me, are 
 some of the most interesting speakers, and Lord John 
 Russell. He comes and seats himself with the rest the 
 arguments go on ; but he does not care the weight of a 
 spike how much may he said hy the opposition. 
 
 A Leghorn hat is perched upon his head. Now like a 
 school-hoy goes and seats himself among the group of his 
 Secretaries. 
 
 There is also George Thompson, who was among the 
 first to give us his hand, and welcome us to the floor of 
 the House. 
 
 I could faintly remember the sketches I had read of 
 him in the American papers twelve years ago. But not 
 much, for then I was just learning my English alphabet. 
 
 A high, well-developed forehead and a Roman nose 
 grace his iron front. He is the friend of the slave. 
 Though I could not subscribe to all his acts and views of 
 employing certain ends for a holy purpose. 
 
 I can give you no just idea of his speaking powers a 
 hurricane is nestling on his brow and the flashes of fire 
 glow in his eyes. A meat-axe behind his ears. He has 
 a good address, a graceful swing of long arms, and a 
 lion s mercy at the ends of his fingers. I have no doubt he 
 
110 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 is a smart man by his looks. His full knowledge of this, 
 does him little good. The pronoun I is a great stum 
 bling-block to many in this world. To use a common ex 
 pression they are " all in my eye" 
 
 The under-Secretary Smith has just arose to explain. 
 Lord Russell takes things very coolly. He sits on one of 
 the ministerial benches apparently without any concern, 
 and endures all that is said by the opposition with the air 
 of a philosopher. 
 
 There is another gentleman just got up to speak 
 very little hair on his head quite elderly tall and as 
 lean as a monument. Why do they laugh ? His dress 
 is a good one, as graceful as the rest. " The poor man 
 is the scape-goat of the House," a gentleman whispers in 
 my ears. He stands as firm as a young man of twenty. 
 See, if there is any leaning it is not on the side of old 
 age. In the midst of laughing applause his legs 
 gave way before the cries of his tormentors and the 
 shouts of "go on" from his friends who pity him. I 
 could hardly keep my own tongue still. He said a few 
 words, or attempted to, which amounted to just about 
 nothing or less. 
 
 Lord John enjoyed the scene vastly. 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. Ill 
 
 This day being quite pleasant there are quite a num 
 ber of visitors seated in the galleries. Far out some dis 
 tance from where I sit, I see my friend the Hon. George 
 Folsom, of New York, minister to one of the foreign 
 courts, with his spectacles glistening and looking through 
 them with a vast deal of penetration. 
 
 There are quite a number of reporters up in the galle 
 ry connected with the various papers. Many of these 
 are now taking notes on which to found some stinging 
 satire for the morrow s papers. 
 
 This hall is an ill-constructed thing. It is said that 
 the roof was so high that it had to be lowered in order 
 that the voice might reverberate throughout the house. 
 Before coming here I had in my mind the idea that I 
 was to see something that might have been a model for 
 the Capitol at Washington, or at any rate something su 
 perior to it. But I find that it is neither adapted to 
 comfort nor to ease in speaking. The seats are very or 
 dinary, but the decorations are rich and in good taste. 
 
 This is the interior of the House of Commons ! and 
 now I must go and take a view of it out of doors. 
 
 A building of Gothic style, which would cover nearly 
 four squares of New York city There is a great deal of 
 
112 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 fine work laid out upon it. My friends must imagine 
 they see a tremendous gingerbread, nearly a quarter of 
 a mile long, 300 feet high, and 400 wide, and they will 
 have a good conception of its size and looks. The fine 
 ness and delicacy of the workmanship will furnish the 
 tooth of Time with a soft morsel. 
 
 I gaze with admiration and wonder at the sight before 
 me. From this house will emanate laws that will tell 
 upon the destinies of British subjects throughout the 
 world, and upon the destinies of the race. Before this 
 Hall shall have crumbled into dust, it will have resound 
 ed with the eloquence of generations of the greatest and 
 best of the noblest race on the face of the earth. A 
 thousand years hence, the true-hearted Britons will hold 
 on to its tottering walls, and cling to every stone, because 
 those who now occupy it. and the many generations who 
 shall follow, will have made it venerable. 
 
 THE NEW HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. A parliamen 
 tary paper, entitled, " A general statement of the expen 
 diture incurred, and proposed to be incurred, in respect 
 of the site, and in erecting and completing the new palace 
 at Westminster," shows that the total expended for these 
 
EUKOPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 113 
 
 buildings to be 1,173,240 16s. 8d.; total unexpended, 
 824,005 19s. 3d. ; total expended and unexpended, 
 1,997,240 15s. lid. 
 
CHAPTER XL 
 
 RAMBLES IN HAMPTON COURT. 
 
 WEDNESDAY morning we set out for Hampton Court, 
 twelve miles from the city a gay company of select 
 friends. The Solicitor General and ladies of rank are to 
 be with us. This pic-nic has been got up by Mrs. Gib 
 son, the lady of the Hon. Mr. Gibson, M. P. 
 
 The country is surpassingly beautiful. Lofty trees 
 hang their branches like arms gracefully by their sides, 
 and beneath their shade the balmy air comes to refresh 
 and cool itself, and to fan the fever from our brows while 
 it causes the social flame to glow more brightly. Here 
 is a glimpse of Eden, with no fiery guard to prohibit us 
 from entering. The garden is well laid out ; flowers 
 perfume the air ; vines clothe the trees with a green robe 
 sweeping down to the ground ; ponds, rivulets, springs 
 and fountains glad the eye ; beautiful fish, the goldfish 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 115 
 
 the king of them all, disport themselves in. the waters ; 
 and there is a group of children at play, their merry shout 
 ringing through the air, and awakening in the breast 
 thoughts of enchanted land and of fairies. 
 
 Here are fruits as well as flowers ; and now that the 
 latter have closed their eyes and let fall their heads, the 
 former are in demand ; for like flowers they gratify taste, 
 and to this they add the gratification of appetite. The 
 evening is beautiful. The heaven within us responds to 
 that without, which is calm and clear and radiant with 
 stars. And there is " Nelly," as they call her, her horns 
 being so well represented in the moon that she forms a 
 part of the scene.- In such circumstances we are lively 
 companions, and conspire to make one another happy. 
 
 We sailed up and down the Thames rowed, pulled, 
 and sung. When we had got some distance down the 
 river it began to rain. mercy ! light dresses, sun- 
 bonnets and summer coats. We were drenched with 
 rain, and before we could get to the house we were 
 bathed in tears wrung out by laughter such a source of 
 merriment is misfortune ! 
 
 My friends took something wet inside to dry the out 
 side, and we soon found ourselves in the house again, 
 
118 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 he might go. He is neither a great orator, a great 
 scholar, a great writer, a great philosopher, a great capi 
 talist, nor a great artist ; he is simply a good business 
 man, with great common sense, of humane feelings, and 
 a facile talent of speaking to the middle-men of his coun 
 try on subjects that appeal directly to their interests. 
 
 " Richard Cobden commenced life humbly in one of the 
 manufacturing towns of England, and in time became a 
 partner in an extensive calico-printing establishment in 
 Manchester, where his sign may still be seen, we are in 
 formed, over his office-door. When the popular agita 
 tion on the subject of the Corn Laws was begun in Eng 
 land, Cobden began to be heard of ; he first addressed 
 his own townsmen, and as his reputation spread, he was 
 at last compelled to give up, or neglect his business, 
 while he engaged in advocating the opinions of the Anti- 
 Corn Law League. His popular and forcible manner 
 soon gained him a seat in Parliament, where he distin 
 guished himself by his sturdy advocacy of other reforma 
 tory measures ; but it was in addressing popular assem 
 blages of the trading and manufacturing classes that he 
 rendered the best service to the cause he espoused, and 
 at last succeeded in procuring the abolition of the Corn- 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 119 
 
 Laws. The English people, to manifest their gratitude 
 to Cobden, determined to raise by voluntary subscription 
 one hundred thousand pounds sterling, nearly half a mil 
 lion of dollars, and present him. Very nearly that 
 amount was subscribed, with which an estate was pur 
 chased that he might be able to devote himself entirely 
 to the public service. He is now member of Parliament 
 for the West Riding of York, and is the foremost man in 
 all the radical movements of the day for reforming 
 governmental abuses and bettering the condition of the 
 people. He ably sustains, in his place in Parliament, 
 every Constitutional measure for republicanizing the 
 Government of Great Britain. Without any of the 
 showy gifts which distinguished such Parliamentary de 
 baters as Sheridan, Fox and Canning, the memory of 
 Cobden is likely to prove sweeter to after generations 
 than either of the brilliant orators named, because it 
 will be associated with acts of beneficence, an untainted 
 moral character, and a reputation for homely goodness 
 which the masses of the people reverence beyond wit or 
 eloquence. Most reformers are men of one idea, but 
 Cobden heartily joins in every scheme that has a tenden 
 cy to elevate the people and undermine the foundations 
 
120 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 of aristocratic privilege. He was one of the most active 
 members of the Peace Congress, held in Paris last year, 
 and during the Parliamentary recess, was constantly en 
 gaged in addressing the people of his country on the sub 
 ject of Governmental abuses. If Englishmen enjoyed 
 the blessings of universal suffrage, as it is enjoyed by the 
 people of our free States, the influence of such a man as 
 Cobden would be infinitely greater than it is now. In 
 Parliament he addresses the privileged classes, who are 
 deaf to all arguments that tend to the destruction of the 
 abuses by which they live on the industry of the people. 
 "Cobden is below the middle height, and of spare 
 habit; one of those-, men, in short, who Sallust tells us 
 are to be feared in a state. Every syllable he utters is 
 distinct as the organs of speech can make it. He speaks 
 rather slowly at first, and at times somewhat hesitating 
 ly ; but this is not because he does not know what to 
 say, but because he is thinking how he shall express his 
 meaning with the very utmost amount of power. He 
 does not seek fine words, but strong ones. And strength 
 there is in what he says, and in his manner of saying it. 
 His sentences are short, like the Roman sword ; but they 
 are forged for close warfare and a hard struggle. He 
 
RICHARD C O B D E N. 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 121 
 
 leans forward as he speaks ; and with his right arm, as 
 he dashes it downwards, seems to beat his arguments 
 into his hearers minds. Right or wrong, his whole 
 heart is in the cause. Of that there can be no doubt. 
 He speaks from conviction ; and with an earnestness and 
 intensity such as one rarely hears. There is nothing ele 
 gant in his language ; it is clothed with no ornament, 
 but, like the naked limbs of the gladiator, it trusts en 
 tirely to its unaided strength. All he proposes is intel 
 ligible ; all his reasoning is plain and clear. He knows 
 nothing of theory, but deals solely with facts. He hurls 
 into the arena before you at your very feet, as it were 
 some fact, some massive fact ; and he tells you to get 
 rid of it to move it thence if you can. That is his 
 mode of arguing. There is such energy in his manner, 
 such life and energy in his words, that you recognize at 
 once the man calculated to lead in great popular move 
 ments, and conduct them to a favorable termination." 
 
 I go to Lord Brougham s to dine, at 7 o clock. Car 
 riages are driving up. Here is Lord , Marquis of 
 
 D , and Lord F . This is Sec. just return 
 ed from a foreign court. A nobler set of Englishmen I 
 never beheld. Lord Brougham, brilliantly dressed, sat 
 
122 - EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 at the head of the table. Mr. Gambardilli, the celebra 
 ted portrait painter, is there also. He makes a com 
 panion of me, and gives me many proofs of friendship. 
 
 Lord B., in whatever aspect you view him, has some 
 thing very remarkable about him. There is nobody like 
 him. In conversation he is fluent and pleasing ; two 
 mortal hours and a half over a table. Why, if we had 
 a Yankee here, a green un, and he saw us sitting so 
 long at table, he would give us a sermon on Time, with 
 a nasal, I know he would. 
 
 Lord Brougham s house is not extravagantly beautiful 
 upon the outside, but the interior is superb. 
 
 Next day. A bright, clear morning greeted us. The 
 bustle of the city is not so much felt in the west end, and 
 by the advice of C. F. Dennentt, of Boston, I am pleas 
 antly quartered in George Street, Hanover Square. At 
 a short distance is Regent Street and Park : west of me 
 is Hyde Park ; on the south is St. James Park, and on 
 the south side of this is the palace of the Q,ueen. 
 
 This day I visit the Zoological Gardens, to see the Ele 
 phant, and more particularly the Hippopotamus, who 
 seems to be the pivot of motion and attraction for the 
 Londoners in dog-days. Dr. W. was to have gone, but 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 123 
 
 we have missed one another. The ride round the Park, 
 and the sight of the trees distributed all about in a pic 
 turesque manner, was very pleasant. The elegant man 
 sions, and beautiful public edifices are fitting counterparts 
 of such a scene. This is a charming country, and no 
 wonder an Englishman looks at you as though he felt 
 five inches higher than any man he ever met with. 
 This scenery reminds me of nature s own Parks in the 
 west those vast openings called Prairies with trees scat 
 tered here and there either singly or in clusters. 
 
 Here is a world of study and reflection. All kinds of 
 animals from all parts of the world. A mischievous set 
 of the monkey race represents the South, and the white 
 bear, the frozen North majestic lions fierce-looking 
 panthers, and a shabby set of grisly bears, have each 
 their iron-bound quarters. Camels looking like a man 
 troubled with rheumatism or gouty gait. Here is the 
 otter How many recollections of youth it calls up 
 when I used to hunt them in the woods of Canada. 
 Wolves, foxes, deer all are here. Among the birds is 
 the Eagle, with his sage-looking head which he seldom 
 turns either to the right or to the left I seated myself 
 in a chair to contemplate him. There he sat the mon- 
 
124 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 arch of the skies, how humble now his habitation. 
 The air has been his kingdom, and the sun the goal of 
 his flights. But here you are what sad reverses of for 
 tune you have experienced ! These pale faces are un 
 merciful to you never mind, here is one that sympa 
 thizes with you. 
 
 Here are birds of every description and variety of plu 
 mage all kinds of water-fowl, and reptiles. 
 
 Here is the Hippopotamus. This animal and the 
 Prince of Naples, who is now in this country, are the 
 two greatest notables just now before the public, but the 
 Prince is, by far, the greatest animal of the two. The 
 one strives to hide his deformity or deficiency of mind 
 under sparkling jewels ; the other stands majestically in 
 his naked, glistening skin. If my friends in America 
 ask me how this animal looks, what shall I tell them ? 
 What can I compare him to ? He is not like a beaver, 
 though he lives sometimes in the water. He is not a 
 moose, though he stalks about with the same air of dig 
 nity. He is not a buffalo, though like him he has a hoof. 
 I have it I shall tell my people that the hippopotamus 
 looks something like a fat, shaved Bear. They must 
 guess the rest, or else be content to remain ignorant. See 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 125 
 
 if there is not some truth in my comparison short clumsy 
 legs heavy creases in folds about his heels round plump 
 body no hair neck strong ears short head large, 
 mouth, how big ! what in other animals is called a 
 tail, perhaps three and a half inches long, and his color 
 has the appearance of a coating of black lead, with the 
 addition, perhaps, of some soot from the chimney-back. 
 
 There is an elephant walking off with half-a-dozen 
 children on his back. His legs look like stumps, yet on 
 he moves with apparent ease. Clumsy as they are, they 
 are of great use to him and so is his long proboscis. He 
 will do almost anything with it, from hunting nuts in 
 your pocket, to killing a man. Here is an apple. His 
 nose takes hold of it and his nose puts it into his mouth 
 and the apple is gone. 
 
 4, I might linger here with profit and pleasure all day, 
 yes several days but other engagements call me, and 
 I must go. 
 
 I find abundance of cards on my table. fie, fie : 
 these English will spoil me. I have engaged myself for 
 dinner every day this week. My note-book runs thus for 
 the week : 
 
 Sabbath morning go to Mr. Gambardilli. Even- 
 
126 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 ing at Under Secretary s house, Dr. Wiseman to be 
 
 there. Monday evening Tea at Mr. S , New 
 
 Broad street. Tuesday Dine at E. Saunders , George 
 Street a celebrated Dentist. Wednesday Hampton 
 Court, with Mrs. Gibson s Pic-nic party. Thursday, Au 
 gust 8th To Breakfast with R. Cobden, at 9 1-2 o clock. 
 Evening Dine at Lord Brougham s. Friday Dine 
 with Lady Franklin and her brother, Sir Simpldnson, 
 21 Bedford Square. 
 
 I have now been in London one week, and have as 
 many more engagements for the next. If I were to go 
 on in this way three or four weeks, I think I should be 
 nearly dead with fatigue. 
 
CHAPTEE XII. 
 
 ANOTHER VISIT TO LIVERPOOL. 
 
 MY engagements take me back to Liverpool for a few 
 days, and I must defer the rest of my sight-seeing in Lon 
 don till my return. 
 
 Tuesday. I leave the city in company, among others, 
 of a gentleman who seemed to have a very unfavorable 
 opinion of America and Americans having got most of 
 his information from writers of the Trollope and Dickens 
 school, of which there are plenty. When he became too 
 personal, I dropped the conversation and took refuge in 
 reading. 
 
 Wednesday. I am to deliver a lecture before the 
 Mechanics Institute on the Religious belief of the In 
 dians. Afterwards another on the superstitions of the 
 Indians and their Legends and another on the peculiar 
 ities of the North American Indians, with their probable 
 
128 EUROPE AX OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 Origin, and other subjects connected with the history of 
 my people in America. These subjects I intend to lay 
 before the British public, both in England and Scotland. 
 
 I have scut word that I am going to the Concert of 
 Jenny Liucl, after the Lecture, though there is no such 
 thing as buying a ticket but I have taken it into my 
 head that I will hear her. For several days there has 
 been great excitement in Liverpool about her singing. 
 Even standing room for this concert is said to have been 
 taken long ago. I have seen some ladies and gentlemen 
 who came from Ireland for the sole purpose of hearing 
 her, and others from London. 
 
 It is now 7 o clock, and I must hie to my Lecture. I 
 appear in my Indian costume. To my surprise I find a 
 crowded house, and am received with a kind greeting by 
 my audience. 
 
 Here follows the Lecture I delivered : 
 
 LADIES AND GENTLEMEN. My subject for this evening s 
 lecture is, superstition and legends of the North American 
 Indians. The East ^universally allowed by all pale-face 
 writers to have been the birthplace and nursery of super 
 stition, and as I am fully convinced our fathers originated 
 
EUKOPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 129 
 
 from eastern tribes, to them we owe the great partiality 
 we have invariably displayed for legendary lore and su 
 perstitious recitals. The entire traditions of our earliest 
 times, hand down to us but imaginative fables and 
 myths of men and supernatural creatures, changes and 
 extraordinary freaks in the elements, all of which are 
 most strongly tinctured with the ancient Persian philos 
 ophy. We do not pretend to establish dates, nor have 
 we any astronomical data, to confirm the exact periods, 
 but we all have a fairy-land location for the first man 
 and woman which we admit a great deluge destroyed. 
 The cause we assign for this event grew out of the fol 
 lowing tradition which I will narrate. The name of the 
 hero was Na-nah-boo-shoo. In the latter days of the 
 Old World mankind were numerous, and there likewise 
 were giants and strange half-god monsters who annoyed 
 mankind very much, the animals, some of which were 
 huge and capable of devouring a whole forest tree at a 
 meal, crunching its stem and branches with the ease that 
 a horse masticates his common food, ranged everywhere. 
 GLuite as troubled were the waters as the dry land from 
 the stupendous sizes of its creatures. In those days bull 
 frogs were seen at the least forty feet in bulk, sitting on 
 
 6* 
 
130 EtfKOPEAX OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 the banks of rivers, shaking the air by their croakings, 
 like the rumbling and exploding sounds of heavy thun 
 der. The races of men were then much larger than 
 they now are, and fitted with more expansive vitals than 
 those we now know of the greatest size arid human life 
 was in proportion to its dimensions, reaching even the 
 return of a thousand seasons. A very dexterous tribe of 
 hunters were in pursuit of some unwieldy river animals, 
 shooting their arrows indiscriminately amongst a herd 
 who were swimming across a river, when it appears that 
 their flight of missiles exceeded their intentions and ac 
 cidentally wounded a water-god, whose cries brought 
 speedily about him his whole tribe. They in revenge de 
 stroyed nearly all the hunters by hurling huge rocks upon 
 them, and as they did not succeed in the destruction of 
 the whole tribe, they determined to drown mankind. 
 I must now tell you that all the human family were red 
 men then. As the first man was made out of red earth 
 his descendants retained his complexion. Well was it for 
 some of the tribe to have escaped, for they scarcely had 
 reached the mountains near before they beheld the 
 waters gushing up from every direction in the lowlands, 
 thousands of concealed springs became great fountains, 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATION. 131 
 
 playing at least a thousand feet high and deluging all 
 around. Only one man escaped with his wife, and they, 
 having hastily constracted a raft, took with them a few 
 of the smaller animals, such as we now have on it, 
 leaving the larger ones to be, as the red man thought, 
 drowned. The waters rose higher and higher, until the 
 tops of all the loftiest mountains were completely cov 
 ered. For weeks they floated everywhere, driven by 
 fearful gusts of wind, and exposed to the most terrific 
 action of rain and hail. When this red man, Na-nah- 
 boo-shoo, called out in despair to the Great Spirit and 
 begged for succor, Manitou heard him and put a stop to 
 the great tempests. After some days the red man, not 
 seeing any appearances of land, sent a beaver to dive 
 down in the waters and procure him some of the earth 
 from below, should any be found. The beaver went and 
 after a considerable time had elapsed returned in a most 
 exhausted condition, without being able to find the earth ^ 
 and died almost as soon as he had got upon the raft. 
 Another was then sent, but it resulted in the same ill 
 success, and he perished from exhaustion. At last a musk* 
 rat was despatched upon the mission, and after a very 
 long time, insomuch that the red man thought he had per. 
 
132 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 islied, his little form was seen extended upon his back in 
 the last gasps of life, holding up one of his small paws. 
 He was eagerly rescued from the water and revived with 
 care, when he opened his paw and disclosed that it con 
 tained a very small piece of the muddy bottom. This 
 the red man dried carefully, and having reduced it to a 
 powder held it in the palm of his hand, and offering it 
 up with a prayer to Maiiitou, blew it to the four quarters 
 of the watery waste. No sooner was this done than the 
 tops of the mountains and the upper branches of their 
 trees began to appear, and the waters rushed down 
 through its thousands of subterraneous channels, and off 
 the land to the sea, and the earth was left dry. From 
 this red man and his wife the world was again re- 
 peopled, but with the addition of two other colors, the 
 pale faces and the black men. From the rapidity with 
 which the world was re-peopled they found it necessary 
 to separate and so branched off, all over the world, to 
 find homes. The red men kept to themselves and found 
 in this country their proper residence. The Manitou, it 
 seems, thought proper to allow some of the giants and 
 huge animals to escape the effects of the flood. It was 
 ascertained that some of them found shelter in the deep 
 
EUEOPEAN OBSEKYATIONS. 133 
 
 caves of that time which existed everywhere, and which 
 they had so secured that no water penetrated. Being 
 friendly with the water-gods, they were preserved par 
 tially by their help and food supplied them. These 
 creatures too became numerous and harassed the red 
 men, between whom long wars ensued. The mastodon and 
 the big elk destroyed the lives of many persons. A great- 
 horned serpent next appeared, w r ho, by means of his 
 poisonous breath, produced diseases, and caused the death 
 of many, but the Manitou killed him with thunderbolts. 
 Another calamity was a blazing star which fell in the 
 midst of the red men and destroyed many people. This 
 last event caused them to separate and become distinct 
 tribes, who soon fell into disputes and wars among them 
 selves, which they pursued through a long period, until 
 they utterly destroyed each other s nationality, and so re 
 duced their numbers that their lands were overrun by 
 wild beasts. Those that were left went to a mountain 
 where the Great Spirit preserved them. From the top 
 of this mountain they could behold the sun rise to see him 
 set. They were told that it was heated in great fires be 
 low and rose sparkling from them in the morning, cooled 
 off throughout the day, and went down at night to be re- 
 
134 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 heated for the next day s use by the Great Manitou. 
 They all spoke the same language then and resolved 
 amongst themselves to preserve the chain of alliance in 
 such a manner, that no time should be able to extinguish 
 them as one people. They collected together in the West, 
 and divided the country into districts, and these were al 
 lotted to Chiefs and Leaders, during the war with the 
 pre-occupying natives, and their descendants are now the 
 various nations of red men. 
 
 No people in the world have ever, probably, so com 
 pletely mingled up their early history in fictions and 
 allegories, types and symbols, as the red men of this con 
 tinent. Making but little difference between the sym 
 bolic and the hostorical, they have left very little distinc 
 tion to mark the true from the false. Our notions of a 
 Deity, founded, apparently, upon some original truth, is 
 so subtile, and divisible, and establish such a confused 
 admixture of spirit and matter in every shape, that popu 
 lar belief seems to have entirely confounded the possible 
 with the impossible, and the natural with the super 
 natural. 
 
 " Tis a history 
 
 Handed from ages down ; a nurse s tale. 
 
 Which children, open-ey d and mouth d, devour ; 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATION S. 135 
 
 And thus, as garrulous ignorance relates, 
 We learn it and believe." 
 
 Action so far as respects cause and effect, takes the 
 widest range, through this agency of good or evil influ 
 ences, which are put in motion ali^ie for noble or ignoble 
 ends, by men, beasts, devils, or gods. The red man be 
 holding some things mysterious and wonderful, believes 
 all are similar, and without the means of navigating 
 his reason, floats at fancy s will on a wild sea of foaming 
 and dashing imagination. He beholds a spirit in every 
 phenomenon, and fears a wizard or witch in every ene 
 my. His wild belief in them creates fears and alarms, 
 and terror of the supernatural prompts him wherever he 
 goes to resort to amulet and charm, however ridiculous in 
 themselves, for preservation. A beast, or a bird, a man, 
 god, or devil, a stone, serpent, or a wizard, a wind, 
 sound, or ray of light are so many causes of action 
 vibrating along the mysterious chain connecting earth 
 and skies as it were by telegraphic lines, along which life 
 or death, may at any moment be the reward or penalty of 
 his attention, or disregard. 
 
 We were, so say the ancient traditions, long time ago 
 most dreadfully annoyed by the fearful visit of the Flying 
 
136 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 heads. These heads were enveloped in a beard and hair 
 flaming like fire ; they were of monstrous size, and shot 
 through the air with the velocity of lightning. Human 
 power was not adequate to cope with them. Our priests 
 pronounced them an emanation of some mysterious influ 
 ence, arid it remained with the priests alone, to exorcise 
 them by their arts. Drum, rattle, and incantation, were 
 considered of more avail than arrow or club. One evening, 
 after they had been plagued a longtime with this terrific 
 visitation, the Flying head came to the door of a lodge oc 
 cupied by a single female and her dog. She was sitting 
 composedly before the fire roasting acorns, which, as they 
 became done, she deliberately took from the fire and eat. 
 Amazement seized the Flying head, who put out two 
 huge black paws, from beneath his streaming beard. 
 Supposing the woman to be eating live coals he with 
 drew, and from that time he came no more among them. 
 The stonish Giants then invaded us. They were a power 
 ful tribe from the wilderness, tall, fierce, and hostile, and 
 resistance to them was vain. They defeated and over 
 came an army which was sent out against them, and put 
 the whole country in fear. These Giants were riot only 
 of prodigious strength, but they were cannibals, devour- 
 
EUKOPEAN" OBSEEVATIONS. 137 
 
 ing men, women, and children in their inroads. Our 
 tradition tells us that these monsters came from the east 
 side of the Mississippi, that existing in forests without 
 habitations, they forgot the rules of humanity ; and be 
 gan at first to eat raw flesh, and next men. They prac 
 tised rolling themselves in the sand, and by this means 
 their bodies were covered with hard skin, so that our ar 
 rows only rattled against their tough hides, and fell 
 harmless at their feet. Our ancestors finding they could 
 not injure or dismay them fled and hid in caves and 
 glens, and were entirely subdued by these fierce inva 
 ders for many winters (or years). At length the great 
 Spirit visited his people, arid finding them in such dis 
 tress He determined to grant them relief, and rid them 
 entirely of these barbarous invaders. To accomplish 
 this he put on the form of one of them, and brandishing 
 a heavy club led them on under the pretence of finding 
 the Mastodon. When they got near the resort of these 
 huge animals, night coming on, he bid them lie down in 
 a hollow, telling them that he would make the attack at 
 daybreak. But at daybreak, he ascended a height, 
 and overwhelmed them with a vast mass of rocks. One 
 only escaped, and he fled towards the north. The huge 
 
138 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 forms of the rest our traditions tell us are to be seen 
 yet, as the good Spirit killed them. 
 
 The belief in Witchcraft prevailed extensively ; its 
 effects upon the red man s prosperity and population, ac 
 cording to our traditions, were at times appalling. The 
 theory of the belief was this. The witches and wizards 
 constituted a secret association, and met at night to pre 
 meditate mischief, and were bound among themselves to 
 inviolable secrecy. They had power to turn themselves 
 into foxes or wolves, and run swift, emitting flashes of 
 light. They could also transform themselves into a tur 
 key or big owl, and fly very fast. If detected, or hotly 
 pursued, they could change themselves into a stone or 
 rotten log. They sought carefully to procure the venom 
 of snakes or poisonous roots to effect their purposes. 
 They could blow hairs or worms into a person. Once 
 upon a time, say our traditions, there lived a red man 
 near a populous village, who in stepping out of his lodge, 
 to his great surprise, immediately sunk into the earth, and 
 found himself in a large room, surrounded by three hun 
 dred witches and wizards. Next morning he went to 
 the council and told the chiefs of this extraordinaiy oc 
 currence. They asked him if he could identify the per- 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 139 
 
 sons. He said he could. They then accompanied him 
 on a visit to all the lodges, where he pointed out numbers 
 of them, whom the chiefs put the death-mark on. And 
 before the search finished, a great many of both sexes 
 were killed for belonging to so horrid an association. 
 
 A long time back we are told that fifty persons were 
 burned to death at the Onondaga Castle for witches. 
 The delusion prevailed among all the red men. And as 
 late as forty-three years ago, among the Oneidas two fe 
 males suffered for it. Their executioner was the notori 
 ous Hon Yost who figured in the wars of the pale faces 
 about the Revolution. He entered the lodge according to 
 a prior decree of the council, and struck them down 
 with his tomahawk. One was killed in the lodge, the 
 other near the lodge door. 
 
 We have a great abundance of stories in relation to 
 fairies, or little beings, so small as scarcely to be visible 
 but to sharp-seeing eyes. They dwell everywhere, and 
 flowers are presumed to shelter large parties of them in 
 a rain shower. The red man as he reclines under the 
 shade of the forests, fancies they are about him ; he de 
 tects their tiny voices in the insects hum, and with half- 
 closed eye he beholds them sporting by thousands on a 
 
140 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 sun-ray. In the evening they are seen and heard, and 
 sometimes revel away the whole night. 
 
 " And now they throng the moonlight glade. 
 Above below on every side, 
 Their little minim forms arrayed 
 In all the tricksy pomp of fairy pride !" 
 
 They are friendly or adverse to him, as he deserves 
 they should be, and great care is taken by him not to of 
 fend them. Young Indian girls are often surprised by 
 them and led to their beautiful abodes and shown the 
 wonders of Fairy land. They overhear lovers or discon 
 solate ones, and aid them as was the case with the Oji- 
 baw maid who loved the Moon. How many years ago 
 tradition does not inform us, but contents itself with 
 handing down to us the fact that on the south-east end of 
 lake Superior lived an old Sachem and his wife who had 
 an only daughter, whose beauty was of so astonishing an 
 order, that her fame spread all through the Indian na 
 tions, and many old chiefs sought her father s lodge to ob 
 tain the hand of his child for their sons. The young 
 men came in numbers to woo her, but both the old men s 
 petition, and young ones, solicitations were alike displeas 
 ing to the young Indian maid, who desired to live single 
 and remain with her parents. Many were the rich 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 141 
 
 offers and inducements made by the warriors around to 
 obtain her. Some went on dangerous expeditions to 
 gain a reputation that she would admire but that pro 
 duced no alteration in her mind she was inflexible. 
 Three of the finest young warriors of her people con 
 tended for her, they first went off a war scout and 
 brought her scalps, she heeded them not ; they then 
 procured her the most superb offerings of rich furs and 
 feathers, it was useless, she would not even admire them. 
 They then agreed to try their speed before her, if she 
 would let the victor be her companion : she would not 
 consent they were hopeless. And soon the report 
 spread far and wide of her dangerous beauty, and the 
 side of the Lake upon which she resided, became an 
 avoided spot, lest any of the young braves should see 
 her, and lose their peace of mind forever in love, hope 
 less, hapless love ! During a whole winter, no one 
 came near the lodge of her father : there she remained 
 secluded with her parents, pondering over the heaps of 
 treasure that a host of refused lovers had given her, and 
 endeavoring to recall the best and finest-looking amongst 
 them. A fairy who had watched this fastidious fair one, 
 cast a charm upon her, which immediately produced the 
 
142 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 contrary effect of her former indifference, and so powerful 
 was it, that it seems she was to fall in love with the first 
 object she should see outside of her father s lodge. And 
 it being night, the first sight that she saw was the moon, 
 which in consequence of the fairy s spell appeared to her 
 as the face of a most enchanting young brave. She 
 sighed and going into the lodge shut the door, and went 
 to rest, but could not sleep, she was so tormented by the 
 love she bore the moon. Early the next morning she 
 took a pail and went to a near spring for water, but for 
 got what she intended to do, and strolled on some dis 
 tance along the shores of the lake, lost in admiration of 
 the moon s face. It was the commencement of spring, 
 and the snows had all melted away, leaving the young 
 and tender grass and early flowers in its stead. The 
 birds were about building their nests, and the air was 
 full of sweetness and pleasant sounds. She looked 
 sadly around her, and she saw that every living thing 
 appeared to have a mate. The birds went two and two, 
 the animals the same, and even the tiny delicate flowers 
 appeared to grow up side by side in love and reliance 
 upon each other. Lost in this meditative mood the day 
 imperceptibly to her declined, and the full moon sprang 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 143 
 
 up, to which she turned her looks in desperate emotion 
 of tenderness and love, as she gazed, it seemed to near 
 her, and feeling that she was lifted up from the earth at 
 the same time she saw that she was hastening to her 
 lover. However, let it be as it may, says the tradition, 
 earth never held her more. And to this day as the 
 Ojibwa braves and damsels behold the shadows upon the 
 moon s face, they imagine they perceive the outline of 
 the fair young Indian maid and her pail. 
 
 Our traditions inform us of a huge musquito which in 
 fested the lake shores, and destroyed many people. This 
 terrible creature Manitou destroyed, and from his body 
 sprang the present insect of that name. His dimensions 
 were so great that he darkened the country he was flying 
 over. 
 
 With tales and traditions of such a kind the Indian 
 beguiles the winter, and the circle around the lodge- 
 fire receives a fresh charm from the horrors and wonder 
 ful narrations of its inmates. These stories increase 
 the estimation of home and its safety, for the strong dash 
 of oriental predilection for the marvellous prevails even 
 over the better judgment of the red man he loves to 
 hear of dangers, when he cannot find them to endure or 
 
144 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 dare. The spirit of wandering adventure and love of peril 
 forms a striking feature in his own composition. 
 
 " Their dangers and delights are near allies ; 
 From the same stem the rose and prickle rise." 
 
 The forest paths are full of fancy s pictures. Its avenues 
 are enchanted passages, and the whole wood a magnifi 
 cently adorned palace wherein the red man s heart re 
 joices. The songs of its gaudy-colored birds are rare 
 music, and the dash of a waterfall nature s accompani 
 ment to the general melody. Here his poetic mind re 
 ceives its impulses, which the solitudes of the deep woods 
 seem to nurse and cherish. At early morn the dew- 
 sprinkled leaves and flowers exhale delightful odors. At 
 noon when all around is parched, cool breezes seem to 
 assemble in the woods for shelter from the heat. At 
 evening s pensive hour the musical notes of insects 
 awaken, and the night-flowers pour out the fragrance of 
 their incense 
 
 " Like sweet thoughts that come 
 Wing d from the maiden s fancy, and fly off 
 In music to the skie?, and then are lost ; 
 These ever-streaming odors seek the sun 
 And fade in the light he scatters." 
 
 It would fill folios to recount the many superstitions 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 145 
 
 in common report among the red men, many of whom to 
 this day truly believe the legends. 
 
 In one of the small bays which indent Lake Superior 
 a long time ago, said an old chief, " I have been told 
 there was a small pond, or rather lake, which occupied 
 about some 600 yards of space, being of an oval form. 
 About its margin the wild animals frequented and hither 
 many came to drink its waters were sweet and whole 
 some, and the color of it was a deep blue. A great many 
 attempts had been made to ascertain its depth, but so 
 great had been the quantity of line used to no purpose, it 
 W 7 as considered by us all as having no bottom. In times 
 past there was an account of its being the abode of a very 
 terrific and formidable creature, which had been repeat 
 edly by straggling hunters, and by one of these I was 
 told about it. He states that being on a scout in search of 
 buffalo, he chose to watch near this place presuming the 
 buffalo would come here to drink about noon he had 
 hid himself behind a small lump covered with thick 
 bushes, through which he commanded a fair view of the 
 pond. Sometime (after he had waited) he observed the 
 surface of the pond very much agitated, and the water 
 appeared to boil up in a perfect foam ; he became uneasy 
 
146 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 to know the cause, and keeping his eyes fixed on the 
 waters, he soon perceived the form of a huge beast rising 
 from the centre of the lake, which swam towards the 
 shore on the same side with himself. In the meanwhile 
 fear overpowered him, and he was unable to leave his 
 hiding-place from its effects he saw that this animal 
 was ten times the size of a buffalo, although its head 
 was shaped like that beast and had huge horns on it. Its 
 body was very unwieldy, and its feet were like the bear, 
 armed with monstrous claws. It passed him and rushed 
 off into the woods, when he heard a great outcry of buffalo, 
 some of whom passed his hiding-place in great terror and 
 speed. He continued to watch for the great beast s re 
 turn, which after a brief space took place. The monster 
 was bloody, and had half a buffalo in its mouth. It came 
 and laid down on the bank of the little lake and finished 
 its meal of raw meat, then sunning itself for an hour, it 
 plunged into the water and began to descend, causing the 
 same agitation to ensue that had characterized its first 
 coming. He saw the impress of the beast s shape on 
 the bank, where it had reclined, and the marks its 
 claws had made in tearing the buffalo. Others came 
 and saw it. And this is believed to refer to the animals 
 
EUROPE AN OBSERVATIONS. 147 
 
 old bones as found in the valleys of the West scattered 
 throughout the country. 
 
 Ladies and gentlemen, I have now only referred to 
 these in an allegorical manner, endeavoring to amuse 
 you more than anything else. The tales which my 
 brothers in the American forest have preserved, and, like 
 the story of the three black crows, every narrator clips, 
 until it is as black as a real crow. 
 
 I must cut my story short for two hours yet, to have 
 the pleasure of seeing and hearing the famed Jenny Lind, 
 and it is now nine o clock. Thank you for your kind at 
 tention, ladies and gentlemen with a bow. 
 
CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 JENNY LIND. 
 
 I WAS glad to get through with my lecture, whether 
 my audience was or not. It delayed the pleasure which 
 I anticipated in hearing Jenny Lind for the first time, 
 and therefore I was glad to escape from the sound of 
 my own voice. Whether any of my audience had 
 any other motive in wishing me through, I cannot say. 
 As to my proceedings after my escape from the lecture- 
 room, and my impressions of the songstress, I cannot do 
 better than to give them as expressed in a letter to B. 
 T., of the New- York Tribune. 
 
 Liverpool, August 16th, 1850. I have just heard the 
 identical and far-famed Jenny Lind ! An hour ago her 
 voice filled the largest hall that I ever saw the Philhar 
 monic containing between four and six thousand people. 
 So great has been the excitement here for these ten 
 days, that everything for sale has Jenny to it. Jenny is 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 149 
 
 in everything the stores, the sales-rooms, and from the 
 splendid halls to the cellar all, all things are baptized 
 with the all-potent name of the Swedish young 
 squaw ! 
 
 " Last week it was said that all the seats had been en 
 gaged, and that even the standing stalls were selling at 
 a premium. Not thinking I should be here so long, I 
 had not taken the precaution of previously procuring a 
 ticket ; and finding I had to be here on the same evening 
 she sang, yet otherwise engaged, I had to put myself 
 against her singing with a lecture this evening. I had a 
 full house, and immediately cut off my exercises in order 
 to go to the hall to get in. Yes, to try to get in ! 0, 
 presumption ; on what will I depend to get in ? was a 
 query which had to be solved first. The people who 
 crowded around me seemed to say that I could not, for 
 they had heard that the house was all in a suffocation. 
 Stepping into the carriage, I said, I will hear the far- 
 famed Jenny Lind this very night drive on. 
 
 "Going from the hall where I delivered an address to 
 an infatuated people, I had little time to conclude in 
 what way I had to get in. I had previously, during the 
 day, sent a note saying that the Indian chief would, 
 
150 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 about nine o clock, be at the door, and desired a seat if 
 others Imd none, and the hour had already arrived. 
 We drove up. The house was besieged with people. 
 A sea of heads and shoulders ! Noise and confusion ! 
 Who is here ! The Indian Chief desires to get ad 
 mittance, was the word given by my Arion. Come 
 in ! says the man at the gateway, to my astonishment 
 and as I was stepping out, two of my best friends in this 
 city were by the door, who immediately took me by the 
 hand, and led me by the seats on the aisle up to the 
 very next from the singers ! ! I could hardly credit I 
 was in. The first song had already been sung, and there 
 was an intermission, during which I had the pleasure of 
 being shown all parts of the splendid Hall and my dress 
 excited as much attention as any one there, for Jenny 
 Lind had not come out then. a 
 
 " Soon the company of the society began to arrange 
 themselves and the people settled. One or two pieces 
 were sung, and then came on the sight which my very 
 black eyes were aching to see. The last sound of the 
 chiming of an immense crowd subsided ; all eyes turned 
 toward the door of the closet where she was, and so soon 
 as the door opened, cheers, deafening cheers, filled the 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 151 
 
 Hall ! clapping of hands ! waving of handkerchiefs by 
 the ladies all over the house ! yet still I was not moved. 
 She bowed a most exquisite, modest bow ! Her dress 
 quite plain, yet gracefully made. Her hair no profu 
 sion of flowers, nor the wild extravagant torture of the 
 hair. Her form is slender a full chest and a mouth 
 like that of the Hon. Henry Clay. She glanced her 
 blue eyes over the sea of heads. Her eyes sparkled like 
 stars glimmering in a cloudless sky. Her motions were 
 easy arid natural. She sang. Her very first notes 
 thrilled through me. The immense house full of people 
 were in agony at some of her touching notes. 0, what 
 unearthly and heavenly music ! My soul, wrapt in 
 ecstacy, seemed borne on to the Garden of Eden. I 
 could appreciate the poet s words : 
 
 " Her deep and thrilling song 
 
 Seemed with its piercing melody to reach 
 
 The soul, and in mysterious unison, 
 
 Blend with all thoughts of gentleness and love. 
 
 " Her voice echoed all over the house. Then arose 
 the maddening shout ; for a minute they cheered to get 
 her back ! Sure enough she came, and sung over the 
 same piece and then retired. I then could breathe freer, 
 
152 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 for I had been holding my breath with intense interest 
 while she sang. 
 
 " A lady by ray side sat motionless, like a statue, yet 
 the tears sparkled as they wound their way on her cheek 
 with her breast heaving with emotion. Another, and 
 yet quite an aged gentleman, gazed with interest, the 
 perspiration rolling down his face ; he turns to his lady 
 and says : She sings like our poor Emma used to, be 
 fore she died. Both wept. 
 
 " Oh ! tell the poor classes all over the land, that this 
 far-famed vocalist was once an obscure girl yes, a poor 
 girl. Let them imitate such examples, and be some 
 thing while they live. 
 
 * # # # * # 
 
 * # # * * # 
 
 " Yours, truly, 
 
 " KAH-GE-GA-GAH-BOWH." 
 
CHAPTER XIY. 
 
 BAPTIST NOEL TRAVELS TO COLOGNE. 
 
 THIS evening I delivered another lecture before a good 
 house ; and at a quarter after nine o clock I leave for 
 London again, travelling all night. Here I leave my 
 lady until I return from Germany. 
 
 The night was tedious, and though I am capable of 
 sleeping soundly in almost any situation, I awoke several 
 times before getting to the London station. I have here 
 to get myself ready, for on Monday I leave for Frankfort 
 on the Main. 
 
 I arrived in London about 4 o clock, and felt about as 
 bad as I looked. Again I quartered myself in George 
 street, Hanover square, where I saw several gentlemen 
 from America, travelling and enjoying the strange sights 
 of the Old World. A Mr. K., from New York, is the life 
 
 of our company. He runs down the English and makes 
 7* 
 
154 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 fun of their peculiarities, "just for greens," as we say in 
 the west. 
 
 Sabbath morning. This is a beautiful day, and the 
 sky is very clear for England, for here we see the sun 
 about once a week, and that only for a few minutes. 
 The streets are comparatively still, and the people are 
 going to church. I lay out to go and hear the great and 
 pious good man, the Rev. Baptist Noel, this evening, for 
 I cannot be content with hearsay I must go and hear 
 for myself. 
 
 The night coming on, we repaired to an old Chapel in 
 the north part of Oxford street. The building is very 
 simple, no decorations, the seats or pews high-backed and 
 plain, without cushions. The pulpit projects from the 
 wall, in the old-fashioned style. The people began to 
 come in, and soon the aisle and every part of the house 
 was filled. I was seated about half-way up the aisle in 
 a good seat, and in a favorable position to see and hear. 
 
 The door of the vestry opens, and forth he comes, and 
 kneels down on the cushion at the Bible desk. Now we 
 see him to advantage. His kneeling form incites to the 
 same posture in the observer, for it bespeaks the posture 
 of the mind. The reader commences. 0, wretched ! 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 155 
 
 He sings it out in a monotonous tone, varied only by a 
 twang that serves to fix the attention, not to the reading, 
 but to the manner of it. What is still worse and more 
 absurd, he reads with an air, as though he were delight 
 ed with his performance. The genuine singing is then 
 gone through with, and at the close the Reverend man 
 prays. Stillness reigns throughout the house. I never 
 felt before how a man could talk with God ! so fervent, 
 so humble, so simple such saint-like simplicity ! His 
 trembling and faltering voice vibrates along the galleries 
 with a heavenly sweetness that seemed to dissolve into 
 the whispering of angels. The cause of humanity escapes 
 not his prayer. He calls down blessings upon his audi 
 ence. Individuals, even, are held up one by one, and 
 the tender language of love and sympathy falls from his 
 lips, and springs in an overflowing fountain from his eyes, 
 and rolls in drops along his earnest face. 
 
 I loved the man before, but I love him better now. I 
 love all things which discover the better nature in man, 
 which stir the depths of sympathy, and which give evi 
 dence of the living soul that was breathed into man at 
 the creation. 0, could men have more of this and less 
 of self, I would be willing to spend an eternity of years 
 
156 EUKOPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 in this world. But self-love makes a hell for mankind, 
 and with this they torment each other. 
 
 Having ended his prayer, the pastor rose and read, and 
 it was the sense you listened to as well as the language 
 and manner. He is tall, leans forward a little his face 
 is neither full nor lean, the forehead is well developed, 
 his arms are long ; and as to his eloquence, when he had 
 spoken about twenty minutes, I said to myself, "Can this 
 be Baptist Noel ?" for, for plainness I never did hear any 
 one to equal him ! A child might easily understand him. 
 A man of ordinary capacity might preach as good a ser 
 mon, if not better, so far as talent is concerned. What 
 then is the peculiarity of this man s discourse which dis 
 tinguishes him ? It is simplicity, fervor and love. There 
 are here, no flights of oratory, no distortion of counte 
 nance, no awkward display of ungraceful arms. 
 
 His discourse was long, yet none moved from their 
 seats. The audience followed him from beginning to 
 end. After presenting the sweetness and holy character 
 of our Lord, he turns to the sinner with a look that I 
 never shall forget. " This is the Saviour whom you de 
 spise." 
 
 So much of deep compassion his face reveals that the 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 157 
 
 people partook of his feelings, yet could not respond. The 
 audience could but weep. In the interval following that 
 sentence I thought angels could have looked down with 
 wonder and admiration, yea, with tenderness and sympa 
 thy. 
 
 On he goes, in still sweeter strains, praising and glori 
 fying his Redeemer, and expressing his solicitude for the 
 eternal welfare of the vast assemblage. 
 
 As he closed his long and faithful sermon he offered a 
 prayer, to which I could respond with a swelling heart, 
 Amen. 
 
 The breathless stillness is broken. The clerk again 
 makes his rehearsal, a sound of unintelligible words. 
 
 I was requested to see him in the vestry, and assenting 
 gladly, there found him the same warm-hearted, earnest 
 preacher. 
 
 We bid him adieu. As I stepped out my thoughts 
 recurred to men of renown whom I have seen. Men 
 who in the world s estimation are esteemed " great." But 
 I had just seen a greater than they. I felt like a child, 
 and would have wept, an hour, yea, a day, to have tar 
 ried with him. I may have the pleasure of enjoying an 
 eternity with him. 
 
158 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 This is the man who lately caused no small sensation 
 in the Established Church by his arguments in favor of 
 baptism by immersion. I find in conversation with 
 Episcopalians that many of them still esteem him very 
 highly for his benevolence of heart and his true piety. 
 
 Weary and tired I lay me down, desirous of gaining 
 some rest, as to-morrow I must leave with the delegation 
 from London for Frankfort-on-the-Main. 
 
 This morning (August 19th) we have beautiful weath 
 er, and the prospect of a very fine day. 
 
 Having seen a few friends, I now leave. It will take 
 one hour to pick out my hazardous way amid omnibuses, 
 hacks, stages and go-carts. 
 
 I need not speak of the disappointment experienced so 
 often by pedestrians in the great city of London. Those 
 who have been there will at once chide me for allotting 
 go short a time as one hour for my undertaking. 
 
 Here I am with my trunk and carriage blockaded by 
 any number of drays, busses and so forth, et cetera, com 
 pletely pent in, as a ship by icebergs, with no chance to 
 go this side or that, on or back. 
 
 Hark ! how the pugnacious drivers talk ! they swear 
 like troopers, though I never heard troopers swear, yet I 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 159 
 
 know they couldn t do it worse. And while I am wait 
 ing they are swearing over their horses backs. My watch 
 says IV. yet I m not in sight of the bridge. 
 
 " Driver, go on, do propel, and you shall have 2s. d. 
 more. Do get to the station before the train leaves." 
 
 My friend Dr. Francis of New York sometimes styled 
 
 me a P r, but here it tried my patience and good 
 
 temper very severely. 
 
 "Is the train gone ?" 
 
 " No, they are soon going bless them." 
 
 " Are you going to Frankfort?" 
 
 "Yes, sir." 
 
 " Let me see your card." 
 
 FRANKFORT ON THE MAINE. 
 
 No. 227. [VIGNETTE.] DELEGATE. 
 
 GLORY TO GOD IN THE HIGHEST J ON EARTH 
 
 IPIS A(Dffio 
 
 Departure from London Bridge Station, 
 Monday, Aug. 19th, at 4 in the afternoon. 
 REV. GEO. COPWAY. Sittings of Congress, Aug. 22, 224.3, 
 
 Departure from Frankfort on return on the 
 
 morning of Thursday, Aug. 29. 
 WILLIAM STOKES, SECRETARY. 
 
160 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 " Pass in." 
 
 " Hurry, hurry, my man." I have my seat safe ; rny 
 trunk also, and about me is a set of jovial, hearty English 
 men with a sprinkling of lean Yankees. 
 
 At quarter-past four our conductor whistles, and at the 
 signal more than sixteen cars are drawn out, all crowded 
 full, for there are over five hundred in the company, 
 though a great many have gone on in previous trains, 
 and will meet us in Frankfort. 
 
 The scenery along the railway is very beautiful, roll 
 ing hills dotted with trees, and valleys filled with har 
 vesting, farms well cultivated, trees and shrubbery grow 
 ing, arid industrious people working. 
 
 But as we pass everybody looks at our train, wondering. 
 
 Dover the place of our embarkation. We have been 
 running through deep tunnels, going, really, by faith and 
 not by sight. We are now stepping on board a swift 
 steamer, for Calais. 
 
 The light-house is in view. The wind blows fierce, 
 the waves rise high, arid the channel is in a foam. Be 
 neath the beautiful rays of the moon how brightly the 
 waters glisten. And how our boat plunges amid the 
 waves. It begins to toss about. The ladies begin to lie 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 161 
 
 down. It matters not where, for Old Neptune is giving 
 them a shake, so the floor is better than no place. 
 
 Sea-sickness ! awful pleasure ! 
 
 What an internal improvement is progressing. It 
 seems as though the committee of interior had ordered a 
 search for smuggled goods, fearing that from England 
 we might carry over some hardware in our stomachs, to 
 France, and neglect to pay duty. 
 
 The saloon is packed with prostrate passengers. Some 
 sick, very sick, and angry with the Captain because he 
 will not stop and let them get out ! 
 
 Gentlemen stand on the deck, doing all they can to 
 keep themselves down, and their meals, ditto. 
 
 We who are well, cannot but smile at the very ludi 
 crous figure which some make, but the pitiful looks of 
 ladies, arid the desponding looks of gentlemen, seem to 
 say, " We don t see anything to laugh at." 
 
 A few moments pass, and we are in the harbor of 
 Calais, just before us is the first of Brother Crapeau s land. 
 
 A beautiful station is it, and just at the river s side. 
 
 Now, it is French, French, French. Nothing but 
 French. Nothing than French. Nothing except French. 
 Here we are taking la coffee. 
 
162 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 The people here seem to have made calculations as to 
 how much money they would make by us ; no very small 
 sum neither. Exchange Officer is here, and those who 
 have a delegation ticket, are allowed to pass their bag 
 gage over without much trouble 
 
 A little after eleven o clock, at night. We are now 
 ready, and our conductor blows a blast of his horn, which 
 has the same signification as the " whistle" of the Eng 
 lishman, and the "all aboard" of the Yankee. 
 
 But here, before I leave Calais, I will give you some 
 historical reminiscences of the place. 
 
 " Calais has 10,000 inhabitants ; it is a fortress of the 
 2d class, situated in a most barren and unpicturesque 
 district, with sandhills raised by the wind and the sea on 
 the one side, and morasses on the other, contributing con 
 siderably to its military strength, but by no means to the 
 beauty of its position. An English traveller of the time 
 of James I., described it as a beggarly, extorting town ; 
 monstrous dear and sluttish. In the opinion of many, 
 this description holds good down to the present time. 
 
 Except to an Englishman setting his foot for the first 
 time on the Continent, to whom everything is novel, 
 Calais has little that is remarkable to show. After an 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 163 
 
 hour or two it becomes tiresome, and a traveller will do 
 well to quit it as soon as he has cleared his baggage from 
 the custom-house, and procured the signature of the police 
 to his passport, which, if he be pressed for time, will be 
 done almost at any hour of the day or night, so as not to 
 delay his departure. It is necessary to be aware of this, 
 as the commissionaires of the hotels will sometimes en 
 deavor to detain a stranger, under pretence of not being 
 able to get his passport signed. 
 
 Travellers landing at a French port, and not intending 
 to go to Paris, but merely passing through the country, 
 as on the route to Ostend or Brussels, are not compelled 
 to exchange their passport for a passe provisoire, but 
 merely require the vise of the authorities at Calais to 
 allow them to proceed on their journey. Persons unpro 
 vided with a passport, may procure one from the British 
 Consul for 4s. 6d. 
 
 The Pier of Calais is an agreeable promenade, nearly 
 3-4 of a mile long. It is decorated with a pillar, raised 
 to commemorate the return of Louis XVIII. to France, 
 which originally bore this inscription : 
 
 Le 24 Avril, 1814, S. M. Louis XVIII. debarqua 
 vis-a-vis de cette colonne, et fut ennn rendu a 1 amour 
 
164 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 des Francais ; pour en perpetuer le souvenir, la ville de 
 Calais a eleve ce monument. 
 
 No one needs to be reminded of the interesting inci 
 dents of the siege of Calais by Edward III., which lasted 
 1 1 months, and of the heroic devotion of Eustace de St. 
 Pierre and his five companions. Few, however, are aware 
 that the heroes of Calais not only went unrewarded by 
 their own king and countrymen, but were compelled to 
 beg their bread in misery through France. Calais re 
 mained in the hands of the English more than 200 years, 
 from 1347 to 1558, when it was taken by the Duke de 
 Guise. It was the last relic of the Gallic dominions of 
 the Plantagenets, which, at one time, comprehended the 
 half of France. Calais was dear to the English as the 
 prize of the valor of their forefathers, rather than from 
 any real value it possessed." 
 
 This town is perhaps Anglicized in great measure as 
 it is by the proximity of Dover, and the English do 
 minions. There are a great many people here from 
 England, some for trade, others for different purposes. 
 The historical associations of this place are numerous. 
 
 The ruins of old fortifications, and the vestiges of 
 war, it is said, have destroyed this place of associations. 
 
EUKOPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 165 
 
 Lady Hamilton is buried in the outer skirts of the town, 
 where, it is said, she died in utter want. 
 
 The night is cold, and we are going over a very 
 level country. Group after group of houses, we pass. 
 And the country presents in the night more monotony 
 than in a waste of plain like the Prairie of the West. 
 Our company though numerous are all still, bowing in 
 the dark, and a great deal more polite than they are 
 when wide awake, for it is all self here. Not so much at 
 tention to one another. This might be tolerated by an 
 American if this only existed among the men. But, a 
 lady here, so far in my observation, receives no more fa 
 vors on account of her gentleness, and I might say help 
 lessness in travelling alone. 
 
 Whatever it may be in the American, whether a mere 
 love to show off or a desire to please in the attentions 
 which are paid to ladies in America in general, a thing 
 which is commendable in them. The creed with most 
 men well bred seems to be " Be civil to all, since in do 
 ing so it neither takes any of ours nor the qualities you 
 possess." Which is by far the best than this growling, 
 and snarling, at everything which does not exactly 
 meet one s approbation. 
 
166 EUKOPEAN OBSEEVATIONS. 
 
 I have seen a want of decorous action in men, here in 
 England, which I certainly did not expect to have found 
 before I left from my native land. It is true that at 
 times ladies by their over-abundance of impudence do not 
 deserve a fair treatment ; yet still they plead they are the 
 "weaker and gentler sex," and ought to be treated ac 
 cordingly. 
 
 Enough of this, for we don t travel here to moralize 
 on the present, as we may do at some other time. Yet, 
 still I will abuse no one. Even if a man is too mean to 
 be noticed, I would not have his name in the routine of 
 names now dear to my heart among the English. 
 
 We are coming to some place. Stopped but once 
 gince we left. 
 
 A town which is called St. Omer. 
 
 It is described as a fortified town in a marshy situation, 
 with 21,000 inhabitants. 
 
 " The Cathedral is a fine Gothic building, containing 
 many interesting relics from the once celebrated city of 
 Terouanne, but heavy and stunted in its proportions. 
 The tower, porch, and interior are most worthy of obser 
 vation. The most remarkable building, however, is 
 
 The Church of St. Bertin, destroyed in the revolution : 
 
EUROPEAN" OBSERVATIONS. 167 
 
 it exists now only as a most beautiful and interesting 
 ruin ; but it is to be feared that it may not long re 
 main even in this state. It was once considered the 
 finest ecclesiastical edifice in French Flanders ; equally 
 distinguished for size, purity, and uniformity of style. It 
 afforded an asylum to Thomas a Becket while banished 
 from England. The choir was finished in 1353, the 
 transepts in 1447 ; the nave and tower, begun in 1431, 
 were not completed till 1520, two centuries after the com 
 mencement of the edifice. At the revolution the abbey 
 was suppressed, and its property confiscated. The 
 church, which had been spared by the Convention, was 
 sold under the Directory, and demolished, in 1799, for 
 the sake of the glass, metal, and wood, which were dis 
 posed of in lots. Since that time the ruins have suffered 
 much from exposure to the weather ; and nearly all 
 that remains of the nave and transepts is likely to per 
 ish in a few years : but the tower is almost perfect, with 
 the exception of the mullions of the windows, and with 
 the assistance of some walls built across the openings to 
 support it, may be prevented from falling. 
 
 A Seminary for the education of English and Irish 
 Catholics exists here : it has succeeded the celebrated 
 
168 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 Jesuits College founded by Father Parsons for the educa 
 tion of young Englishmen. Daniel O Connell was 
 brought up here for the priesthood, and several of the 
 conspirators engaged in the Gunpowder Plot were pupils 
 of the same school. There are not more than 15 or 20 
 students at present." 
 
 Just at daylight after leaving this place, we had a 
 short time to rub the dust from our eyes and to look at 
 the country of the Belgians. This is a monotonous 
 country no hills to see. But one continual level of 
 mud and stagnant pools of water. A very easy country 
 to grade railroads, arid a fine country for farming if it 
 was not so level. These people seem to be very indus 
 trious. Women are as often seen in the fields as men, 
 substantial they are too. Firm, and rugged-looking 
 faces as round as the fat face of the moon. 
 
 Towards 9 o clock, we have not got any breakfast 
 yet, and I feel as though I could devour any kind of eata 
 ble substance. We now come to Lille, arid I am too 
 busy in attending to my bodily wants then to rake any 
 historical notices of the place. The people are busy look 
 ing at us, and they certainly must wonder when they see 
 us eat, if this is the way we devour our food, where we 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 169 
 
 come from. Some of us do not do so, and others of us 
 worse. 
 
 This morning to philosophize over a cup of coffee had 
 to be dispensed with. For none seem to have manners 
 enough left, to help the others. 
 
 The town is described as a city of importance, with 
 70,000 inhabitants ; handsomely built, and surrounded 
 by fortifications which render it one of the strongest 
 places in France. Its citadel is considered a masterpiece 
 of the skill of Vauban, who was governor of it for many 
 years. At different periods, and under different masters, 
 Lille has stood seven distinct sieges ; the most memora 
 ble, perhaps, was that by the allied armies of Marlbor- 
 ough and Eugene in 1708, of three months duration, 
 during which the war was not merely waged above 
 ground, but the most bloody combats were fought below 
 the surface between the miners of the opposite armies, 
 each endeavoring to sap and undermine the galleries of 
 his opponent. 
 
 Boufflers, the French commander, after a masterly de 
 fence, was compelled to capitulate, but upon the most 
 honorable terms. 
 
 The E,ue Royale is a fine street nearly a mile long 
 
 8 
 
170 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 The most interesting public buildings are the ancient 
 Hotel de Ville, built by Philip the Good, 1430, and the 
 Cathedral of St. Maurice, in which the Duke de Berri 
 was buried. Its exterior is utterly uninteresting : the in 
 terior is good, and worth seeing. 
 
 The Public Library of 20,000 vols. is a remarkably 
 fine collection, and contains, besides, a number of very 
 curious MSS. charters, &c. 
 
 In the Church of St. Catherine there is a very capital 
 picture by Rubens, the Martyrdom of St. Catherine ; 
 but hung so far above the high altar that it can with 
 difficulty be seen. 
 
 The Museum of Natural History is rich in the birds, 
 fishes, insects, and minerals of the surrounding district. 
 
 There is a handsome Promenade and a tolerable 
 Theatre here. 
 
 Lille contains little to detain a traveller not interested 
 in manufactures, but so much active industry as is visi 
 ble here is rarely found in a fortified town ; it possesses 
 150 cotton factories, which have risen up in the room 
 of the manufacture of lace, for which it was once famous. 
 It has, besides, numerous other important manufactures ; 
 and its trade and commercial prosperity are much pro- 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 171 
 
 moted by the two navigable canals which traverse the 
 town. The cultivation of beet-root for sugar is carried 
 on to a great extent in the country round Lille. 
 
 Outside the Paris gate are nearly 200 windmills, princi 
 pally used for grinding rapeseed. 
 
 There are not so many curiosities in this town as to 
 pay any man for seeing and visiting. The streets are old- 
 fashioned and houses ancient. Mud-walls falling in pieces 
 signs of houses very prominent. 
 
 At a little after 10, we are here in Ghent, celebrated 
 for its many curiosities and ancient buildings. No town 
 seems to possess that claim of attention as this does. But, 
 we cannot even go up to the streets to see it, for we stay 
 but 10 minutes. There are in sight, many public build 
 ings. The curious roofed and gabled houses, high, paint 
 ed roofs, and curious devices around them strike my eye. 
 The grass is literally covered with drapery goods and 
 cottons, bleaching. 
 
 Long before we came to it did we see its steeples. Be 
 ing a clear morning, the sky is fine, and the atmosphere 
 bracing. 
 
 Our company is gathering, and we will soon be on our 
 way again. This city is associated with many stirring 
 
172 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 events. To Americans more than any city in this king 
 dom. 
 
 The following are a few of the historical associations 
 connected with this city. 
 
 Ghent lies upon the rivers Scheldt and Lys, whose nu 
 merous branches, traversing the town, form canals in all 
 directions : it has about 92,000 inhabitants. In the time 
 of Charles V. this was, perhaps, the largest and most 
 populous city of Europe. It contained 35,000 houses, 
 and 175,000 inhabitants ; and that emperor used spor 
 tively to say that he could put all Paris into his glove 
 (gant). The circumference of its walls at the present 
 day measures between 7 and 8 miles. In the 10th cen 
 tury it was the capital of Flanders, but in process of time 
 the turbulent weavers, among whom a spirit of indepen 
 dence had early begun to work, rose up against their 
 feudal superiors, and threw off their yoke, or obtained 
 from them concessions and immunities which formed the 
 origin of popular rights in Europe. At length its burghers 
 became so bold and warlike, that they were able to re 
 pulse from their walls 24,000 English, commanded by 
 Edward I., in 1297 ; and contributed to beat the elite 
 of the French chivalry at Courtray, in the " Battle of 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 173 
 
 Spurs. Their allegiance both to the counts of Flanders 
 and dukes of Burgundy, seems to have been little more 
 than nominal ; since, whenever these seigneurs attempted 
 to impose a tax which was unpopular, the great bell 
 sounded the alarm, the citizens flew to arms, and slew or 
 expelled from the town the officers appointed by their 
 sovereign. It did not take long to equip an armament 
 of burghers and artisans, who had weapons always at 
 hand, and who repaired to the scene of action in their 
 every-day or working dress, only distinguished by a badge, 
 such as a white sleeve worn over it, or a white hood. 
 Thus it happened that popular tumults were as frequent 
 in the 14th and 15th centuries in Ghent as they have 
 been at Paris in the 19th, and rather more difficult to 
 quell. On the other hand, it not unfrequently happened, 
 that the seigneur, aroused by some act of atrocity or in 
 subordination, collected his forces together and took signal 
 and terrible vengeance. These courageous but undisci 
 plined citizens then atoned for their audacity on the field 
 of battle, being mowed down in thousands. Afterwards 
 came the season of retribution and humiliation for the 
 town : enormous subsidies were levied on it ; its dearest 
 privileges were confiscated ; and its most honored citizens 
 
174 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 and magistrates were condemned to march out of the 
 gates in their skirts, with halters round their necks, and 
 to kiss the dust before the feet of their imperious lord and 
 conqueror. The city of Ghent was several times forced 
 to make such an abject and ludicrous act of submission. 
 The immediate cause of its decline and ruin may be 
 traced to this spirit of revolt. " Intoxicated with the 
 extent of their riches, and the fulness of their freedom," 
 the citizens engaged in a contest with their sovereign, 
 Philip the Good. It is no little proof of their vast re 
 sources that they were able to maintain it from 1448 to 
 1453 ; but in the end they were compelled to submit, 
 with abject humiliation, heavy fines, and loss of trade. 
 
 In 1400 the city of Ghent is said to have contained 
 80,000 men capable of bearing arms. The number of 
 weavers then amounted to 40,000 ; and they alone could 
 furnish 18,000 fighting men out of their corporation. A 
 custom derived from that period still exists in the town : 
 A bell was rung at morning, noon, and evening, to sum 
 mon the weavers to their work and meals ; while it toll 
 ed, the drawbridges over the canals could not be raised 
 for the passage of vessels ; and other persons were even 
 enjoined not to go out into the streets, for fear of inter- 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 175 
 
 rupting the vast stream of population ; while children 
 were carefully kept within doors, lest they should be trod 
 den under foot by the passing multitude. 
 
 Though fallen from its high estate, and sunk both in 
 population and extent of manufacture below what it was 
 in the proud days of Burgundian rule, it does not display 
 the same signs of decay and listlessness as Bruges : it is 
 still the Belgic Manchester. In 1804, while united to 
 France, it was ranked by Napoleon as the third manu 
 facturing town in his dominions, after Lyons and Rouen. 
 The revolution of 1830, however, has inflicted another 
 vital blow on its prosperity ; and there are now many 
 workmen out of employ. Several considerable manufac 
 tures are carried on here, especially that of cotton. In 
 1801, a clever Fleming, named Lieven Bauens, brought 
 over from Manchester English workmen and spinning- 
 jennies. The manufacture quickly took root, so as to 
 employ in a few years more than 30,000 workmen. 
 Sixty steam-engines were employed, not long ago, in the 
 town and neighborhood to set in motion the machinery 
 of the various cotton mills. But since the Revolution 
 many have ceased to work, and several proprietors have 
 removed their establishments to Holland. 
 
176 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 The picturesqueness of the houses of Ghent, the fantas 
 tic variety of gable ends rising step wise, or ornamented 
 with scrolls and carving, arrest the stranger s eye at every 
 turn." 
 
 No country that ever I visited possesses such sameness 
 as this. Nothing seems to be anywhere, which could give 
 it the contrast. All alike, the land is cultivated. The 
 group of willows, and rows of poplar trees, are the prin 
 cipal objects which are seen along the flat road. Some 
 places the farms are so immersed in water that they appear 
 more like lakes skirted with wood. Women are useful 
 here. They are up to the knees in mud, digging up or 
 fishing up their potatoes fine fields of this useful article 
 of food are now covered with water. They appear to be 
 devoid of curiosity, for when our trains are passing, they 
 do not even look to see the train as it whizzes by them. 
 Working away without any interruption. Tobacco is 
 grown here for each farm, as one corner of it may be seen 
 growing. 
 
 The road is very dusty. We soon will get to the fron 
 tier of Belgium. 
 
 The next place of note we come to is Liege. It is 
 situated where, around it are mountains the first of the 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 177 
 
 kind we saw. The scenery is fine around it, being down 
 somewhat in a valley. The following are some of its his 
 torical associations : 
 
 " Liege lies at the junction of the Ourthe with the 
 Meuse ; it has 58,500 inhabitants, and differs from most 
 other Belgian towns, inasmuch as it at least appears to 
 be thriving. The clouds of smoke usually seen from a 
 distance hanging over it, proclaim the manufacturing 
 city, the Birmingham of the Low Countries ; and the 
 dirty houses, murky atmosphere, and coal-stained streets, 
 are the natural consequence of the branch of industry in 
 which its inhabitants are engaged. The staple manu 
 factory is that of fire-arms ; Liege is, in fact, one great 
 armory, and produces a better article, it is said, at a low 
 price, than can be made for the same sum in England. 
 The saddlery is also very good here, and a particular kind 
 of coarse cloth is manufactured in large quantities. There 
 is a Royal Cannon Foundry here, and Mr. Cockerill 
 manufactures spinning machinery and steam-engines to 
 rival the English. The cause of this commercial pros 
 perity is, as might be conjectured, the presence of coal in 
 great abundance close at hand. The mines are worked 
 
 upon the most scientific principles : some of them are 
 
 8* 
 
178 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 situated so near to the town that their galleries are car 
 ried under the streets, so that many of the houses, and 
 even the bed of the river, are in some places undermined. 
 Previous to the Revolution, Holland was supplied with 
 coal from Belgium ; but the home consumption has since 
 increased to such an extent, from the numerous manu 
 factories which have sprung up on all sides, that the Bel 
 gian mines are now inadequate to supply the demand, 
 and a law has been passed permitting the importation of 
 coals from Newcastle. 
 
 The buildings best worth notice in Liege are, the 
 Church of St. Jaques and the interior court of the Palais 
 de Justice, formerly palace of the Prince Bishop, built by 
 the Cardinal Bishop Erard de la Marck, 1533. The 
 stunted pillars of the colonnade which surrounds it bear 
 a resemblance to those of the ducal palace at Venice, 
 and have a striking effect with much the same character 
 as those found in works of Moorish architecture. Each 
 pillar is carved with a different pattern. 
 
 A visit to Liege, and the mention of the Bishop and 
 his palace, are likely to call to the rnind of an English 
 man the vivid scenes and descriptions of Q^uentin Dur- 
 ward. He will, however, in vain endeavor to identify 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 179 
 
 many of the places there spoken of, with the spot. The 
 Bishop s " Castle of Schonwaldt > situated about 10 miles 
 from the town," cannot be Seraing, as it was not built 
 till a much later period. Sir Walter Scott never visited 
 Liege himself, so that his localities are purely imaginary ; 
 yet, from the vividness of his description of the town, and 
 the perfect consistency of all his topographical details, 
 few readers would doubt that he was personally ac 
 quainted with it. He has also made a slight variation 
 in the romance from the real facts of history as far as re 
 lates to Liege : and as the events on which he founded 
 the novel are of the highest interest, and serve to illus 
 trate the story of this ancient " Imperial free city," it 
 may not be amiss shortly to relate them. The citizens 
 of Liege, puffed up, as Philip de Commines says, by pride 
 and riches, gave constant proofs of their boldness and in 
 dependence by acts of insubordination, and even of open 
 rebellion against their liege Lord, Charles the Bold of 
 Burgundy, and against the bishops who were his allies or 
 supported by him. He had inflicted severe chastisement 
 upon the Liegois after his victory at St. Trond (when 
 many thousands were left dead on the field), by abridging 
 their privileges and taking away their banners ; and when 
 
180 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 they submissively brought him the keys of the town, he 
 refused to enter by the gates, but compelled them to bat 
 ter down the city wall for a distance of 20 fathoms, and 
 fill up the ditch. He then entered by the breach, with 
 his visor down, his lance in rest, at the head of his armed 
 bands, as a conqueror ; and further, to disable the bold 
 burghers from mutiny, ordered all their fortifications to 
 be demolished. This punishment was inflicted in 1467, 
 but it was so little regarded, that the very next year they 
 again broke out into open revolt, at the instigation of se 
 cret emissaries of Louis XI., seized upon the person of 
 their bishop in his castle at Tongres, and brought him 
 prisoner to Liege. 
 
 They were headed by one John de Vilde, or Ville, 
 called by the French Le Sauvage : it is not improbable 
 that he was an Englishman, whose real name was Wild, 
 and that he was one of those lawless soldiers who at that 
 time served wherever they got best paid, changing sides 
 whenever it suited them." 
 
 Immediately after we left the frontier of Prussia in 
 Belgium, we came to the Rhenish Prussia ; and we 
 have just stopped 10 minutes in Aix-la-Chapelle. This 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 181 
 
 to me is a very interesting place on account of its many 
 historical reminiscences. 
 
 " Aix-la-Chapelle, a town of 37,800 inhabitants, was 
 known to the Romans under the name of Aquis Grani. 
 The warm springs were a sufficient inducement to fix 
 that bath-loving people on the spot, and remains of their 
 baths are constantly found in digging. It is to Charle 
 magne, however, that the city owed its eminence. He 
 was born here, as some conjecture, and without doubt 
 died here, 814. He raised it to the rank of second city 
 in his Empire, and made it capital of his dominions 
 N. of the Alps, appointing it the place of coronation for 
 the German Emperors his successors. 
 
 In the middle ages it flourished with the privileges of 
 a Free Imperial City, and attained great eminence in its 
 manufactures, especially in that of cloth, for which it is 
 celebrated, even to the present day. 
 
 In later times it has been distinguished by the Con 
 gresses held here 1. In 1668, when a treaty of peace 
 was concluded between France and Spain ; 2. In 1748, 
 when a general peace was signed by the sovereigns of 
 Europe ; and 3. In 1818, at which the Emperors of 
 Austria and Russia, and the King of Prussia, were pres- 
 
182 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 ent in person, and Ambassadors were sent from George 
 IV. and Louis XVIII. to decide on the evacuation of 
 France by the Allied armies. 
 
 After the peace of Paris, Aix was separated from 
 France, to which it had been united by Napoleon, and 
 added to the dominions of the King of Prussia. By the 
 handsome new streets and fine buildings erected since 
 that event, as well as by the increase of population, it 
 appears to be returning to its ancient prosperity. Since 
 the days of the Romans and Charlemagne, it has been 
 celebrated as a watering-place, and is annually frequent 
 ed by many thousand visitors. 
 
 The Hotel de Ville (Rathhaus), in the great market 
 place, is a vast and somewhat imposing building. Strang 
 ers generally become acquainted with it when they re 
 pair thither to have their passports signed in the Police 
 Office, situated in the right wing, near a small tower, 
 said erroneously to be of Roman origin, and called the 
 Tower of Granus. The Rathhaus occupies the site of 
 the palace in which Charlemagne was born ; it is re 
 markable as the place of meeting of the two Congresses 
 of 1748 and 1818. In the grand saloon on the second 
 floor, where the conferences are held, are shown some 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 183 
 
 bad pictures of the members of the congress collectively, 
 and some equally bad portraits of the ministers and sove. 
 reigns who assisted at them ; among them, that of Lord 
 Sandwich, the English minister, is conspicuous. The 
 smaller room on the same floor was occupied by Sir 
 Thomas Lawrence as a painting- room in 1818, while 
 painting the portraits of the sovereigns and other emi 
 nent persons then assembled, for the gallery at Windsor. 
 
 In the centre of the square is a fountain, surmounted 
 by the bronze statue of the Emperor Charlemagne. It 
 appears to have been erected at the same time as the 
 Rathhaus, in 1353. 
 
 The position of the Tomb, in which once reposed the 
 mortal remains of Charlemagne, is marked by a large 
 slab of marble under the centre of the dome, inscribed 
 with the words, " CAROLO MAGNO." A massive brazen 
 chandelier hangs above it, the gift of the Emperor Fred 
 erick Barbarossa. The vault below is now empty, having 
 been opened by the Emperor Otho in 997. He found 
 the body of Charlemagne not reclining in his coffin, as is 
 the usual fashion of the dead, but seated in his throne as 
 one alive, clothed in the imperial robes, bearing the scep 
 tre in his hand, and on his knees a copy of the Gospels. 
 
184 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 On his fleshless brow was the crown, the imperial man 
 tle covered his shoulders, the sword Joyeuse was by his 
 side, and the pilgrim s pouch, which he had borne al 
 ways while living, was still fastened to his girdle. All 
 these venerable relics were removed, and used in the cor 
 onation ceremonies of succeeding Emperors of Germany. 
 They are now deposited at Vienna. The throne, in 
 which the body of Charlemagne was seated, alone re 
 mains ; it is placed in the gallery running round the oc 
 tagon, facing the choir. It is an arm-chair, in shape 
 somewhat like that of Edward the Confessor, in West 
 minster Abbey, but made of slabs of white marble, which, 
 during the coronation, were covered with plates of gold. 
 It is protected by wooden boards, which the sacristan will 
 remove to satisfy a stranger s curiosity. The front of the 
 gallery was originally adorned with 32 pillars of granite 
 and porphyry, brought by Charlemagne from the Ex 
 arch s Palace at Ravenna, and partly from the East : 
 these were somewhat wantonly removed by the French, 
 and as only a part of them have been returned from 
 Paris, they have not been replaced. In front of some of 
 the side chapels may be seen small models in coarse wax, 
 of arms, legs, and other parts of the human body, hung up 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 185 
 
 as votive offerings by poor people, who believe that mala 
 dies in their limbs have been cured by the interposition 
 of the Saint to whose altars they dedicate these gifts. In 
 the side chapel, dedicated to St. Nicholas, stands an an 
 tique sarcophagus of Parian marble, the work of Roman 
 or Greek artists, ornamented with a fine bas-relief of the 
 Rape of Proserpine : the feet of the dead Charlemagne 
 originally rested in. it, within his tomb." 
 
 And here are some of the Reliques of an ancient order 
 and date, to believe in all which a man must have an iron 
 stomach to digest the tough with the soft. 
 
 " The Grandes Reliques are publicly shown to the people 
 only once in 7 years, from the 15th to the 27th of July. 
 So sacred was this ceremony held, and so high was the 
 privilege esteemed of obtaining a glimpse of them, that in 
 former times no fewer than 150,000 pilgrims resorted to 
 the spot from all parts on this occasion ;^ and even so 
 lately as in 1839, the last aniversary, the number of 
 pious visitors exceeded 60,000. These relics were pre 
 sented to Charlemagne by the Patriarch of Jerusalem, 
 and by Aaron king of Persia. They are deposited in a 
 rich shrine of silver gilt, the work of artists of the 9th 
 century, and consist of 1. The robe worn by the Vir- 
 
186 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 gin at the Nativity ; it is of cotton, 5 feet long. 2. The 
 swaddling-clothes on which Jesus was wrapped ; they 
 are of cloth, as coarse as sacking, of a yellow color. 3. 
 The cloth on which the head of John the Baptist was 
 laid. 4. The scarf worn by our Saviour at the Cruci 
 fixion, bearing stains of blood. Intermixed with these 
 religious reliques are many curious antique gems, some 
 Babylonian cylinders, and the like, which serve as jewels 
 to ornament the saintly treasury. The fee for seeing all 
 these wonders amounts to about 10s. English." 
 
 Here for the first time the people recognized me as be 
 ing the Indian from America. They came and stood in 
 groups just by, and watched me as I paced the platform 
 of the station. 
 
 As we now leave for Cologne I am so tired and sleepy 
 I shall treat myself with a short rest for my eyes and 
 awake a few miles from Cologne. 
 
 Having arrived. Here is a crowd, and while I was 
 looking after myself, I heard some one naming me by 
 name, and from the crowd of Germans too. On looking 
 up I saw James Buchanan Read of Philadelphia, the 
 Painter Poet. And stretching his long arm he pulled me 
 to him, and soon introduced me to another Poet, Charles 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 187 
 
 Close, the cotemporary of Mr. Frielegarth, the Poet. 
 I received a message of apologies for his inability of 
 seeing me. But I am at home, for here is a young Amer 
 ican, tall and lean as a staff-post. I wandered about 
 with them by moonlight, and gazed with wonder on the 
 curiosities of the place. 
 
 This is a noted place. 
 
 I will give a short notice of it gathered from the items 
 of my travels. 
 
 " Cologne is a fortified town of 65,000 inhabitants, on 
 the left bank of the Rhine, connected by a bridge of 
 boats with the fortress and suburb of Deutz, which has 
 3700 inhabitants. It is the largest and wealthiest city 
 on the Rhine, and has^ecently been made a free port. 
 
 Cologne owes its existence to a camp pitched here, by 
 the Romans, under Marcus Agrippa, which was after 
 wards enlarged and rendered permanent by the removal 
 (under Tiberius) of a native tribe, called the Ubii, from 
 the right bank of the Rhine, an event mentioned by 
 Tacitus (Ann. I. 36), and by their settlement on the left 
 bank, at the spot now occupied by Cologne. This first 
 city was called Civitas Ubiorum. More than 80 years 
 after, Agrippina, mother of Nero, and wife of Claudius, 
 
188 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 who was herself born here, sent hither a colony of Ro 
 man veterans, and gave to it her own name, calling it 
 Colonia Agrippina. A part only of its ancient appella 
 tion is retained in the modern name of Cologne. 
 
 In the middle ages, from its wealth, power, and the 
 considerable ecclesiastical foundations of its bishops, it 
 was often called the Rome of the North. 
 
 The object which first claims attention here is the 
 Cathedral (Dom Kirche), which, though begun in 1248, 
 during the reign of the Elector and Archbishop of Co 
 logne, Conrad of Hochstedten, has remained up to the 
 present time in a condition between a fragment and a 
 ruin. Had the original plan been completed, (views of 
 the intended edifice are to be procured,) it would have 
 been the St. Peter s of Gothic architecture. Even in 
 its present state, it is one of the finest Gothic monuments 
 in Europe. It is to be regretted that the name of the 
 architect who commenced and planned it, is not with 
 certainty ascertained ; as he deserved to be recorded, who 
 conceived so splendid a structure. The two principal 
 towers, according to the original designs, were to have 
 been raised to the height of 500 feet. That which is 
 most finished at present is not above one third of the 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 189 
 
 height. On its top still remains the crane employed by 
 the masons to raise the stones for the building. And it 
 has stood for centuries. It was once taken down, but a 
 tremendous thunder-storm, which occurred soon after, was 
 attributed to its removal by the superstitious citizens, and 
 it was therefore instantly replaced, or a similar one set 
 up in its stead. It is well that it should remain, as it 
 looks as though the present generation had not entirely 
 abandoned the notion of resuming and completing the 
 structure. 
 
 The King of Prussia, whose taste for the arts, and zeal 
 for the preservation of ancient edifices, is equal to his 
 liberality, has for many years past expended a considera 
 ble sum upon it : this, however, has been employed not 
 in advancing the edifice, but in .repairing dilapidations, 
 and preserving what is built, from the ruin into which it 
 threatened to fall owing to previous neglect. The resto 
 rations and repairs are conducted in a masterly and most 
 workmanlike manner ; the faulty stone of the Drachen- 
 fels has been replaced by another of a sounder texture ; 
 and the new sculpture and masonry are at least equal to 
 those displayed in the original edifice, while, as mechani 
 cal science has made vast strides since the building was 
 
190 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 founded, it is evident that money alone is wanting to 
 complete it. It is well worth while to ascend the scaf 
 folding, both to view closely the details of the restora 
 tions, and to enjoy the view. 
 
 The entire length of the body of the church is 400 ft., 
 and its breadth 161. 
 
 In a small chapel immediately behind the high altar 
 is the celebrated Shrine of the Three Kings of Cologne, 
 or Magi, who came from the East with presents for the 
 infant Saviour. Their bones were obtained from Milan 
 by the Emperor Frederic Barbarossa, when he took that 
 city by storm, and were presented by him to the then 
 bishop of Cologne, who had accompanied him on his 
 warlike expedition. The case or coffin in which they 
 are deposited is of solid silver gilt, and curiously 
 wrought, surrounded by small arcades, supported on 
 inlaid pillars, and by figures of the Apostles and 
 Prophets. The vast treasures which once decorated it, 
 were sadly diminished at the time of the French revolu 
 tion, when the shrine and its contents were transported 
 for safety by the Chapter, to Arnsberg, in Westphalia. 
 Many of the jewels were sold to maintain the persons 
 who accompanied it, and have been replaced by paste or 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 191 
 
 glass imitations ; but the precious stones, the gems, 
 cameos, and rich enamels which still remain, will give a 
 fair notion of its riches and magnificence in its original 
 state, while those among them of Babylonish origin, visi 
 ble here as at Aix, afford wide scope for curious inquiry. 
 
 The skulls of the three kings, inscribed with their 
 names Gaspar, Melchior, and Balthazer written in 
 rubies, are exhibited to view through an opening in the 
 shrine, crowned with diadems (a ghastly contrast), 
 which were of gold, and studded with real jewels, but 
 are now only silver gilt. Among the antiques still re 
 maining are two, of Leda, and Cupid and Psyche, highly 
 beautiful, but singularly inappropriate to their present 
 position. 
 
 Those who show the tomb assert that its treasures are 
 still worth six millions of francs=240,OOOZ. ; this is an 
 exaggeration, no doubt. 
 
 This shrine is opened to. the public gaze on Sundays 
 and festivals ; but those who desire to see it at other 
 times, or to have a nearer and more minute view of it, 
 must apply to the sacristan, and pay a fee, reduced from 
 2 thalers to 1 th. 16 S. gr. (=6 fr.), which admits a 
 party." 
 
192 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 Here one might remain a week or more and not get to 
 the end of those curiosities which it does pay a man for 
 viewing. We leave it for the present. 
 
 
CHAPTER XV. 
 
 THE RHINE. 
 
 THE fatigues of yesterday rest heavily upon my eye 
 lids, and it is with difficulty that I raise them, this 
 morning. 
 
 My friend J. B. R. is still a slave of Morpheus, yet 
 his arms are partly free and -he shook hands with me. 
 
 It is the 21st of August. Daylight was long since 
 about me. The boat on which I am a passenger is a 
 long, narrow affair, with no covering of any account, 
 and is quite full if not more. Just below us is the re 
 nowned " Bridge of Boats." An army of boats, side by 
 side, extending from one side of the river to the other, 
 and affording passage for pedestrians, coaches and carts. 
 
 Now we are off. Ah, here is a man whom I met in 
 Illinois in 37. The Rev. Mr. Jacobus a German gentle 
 man. I find he does not recognize me, but upon nearer 
 approach he greets me as an old acquaintance. 
 
194 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 Having met a gentleman so replete with intelligence, 
 I must not fail to obtain him as an interpreter. He nar 
 rates to me his adventures, which interest me very much. 
 
 From Cologne for many miles the country is flat, and 
 the scenery very monotonous. 
 
 The first considerable town we reach is Bonn, cele 
 brated for its university, library, and being the place 
 where it is said Beethoven lived. 
 
 An ancient-looking place it is too. The sketches of 
 history and descriptions given to my readers that they 
 may judge of it, for themselves. 
 
 " Bonn, a town of 12,000 inhabitants, on the left bank 
 of the Rhine, is chiefly remarkable for its University, es 
 tablished by the King of Prussia, in 1818, which has al 
 ready attained a high reputation on the Continent, 
 owing to the improved discipline maintained among the 
 students, and to the discernment exercised by the govern 
 ment in the appointment of professors. Among those 
 who have already filled chairs here, the most distinguish 
 ed are Niebuhr (now dead) and Schlegel. The number 
 of students amounts to 720. 
 
 The Electors of Cologne formerly resided here, having 
 removed their court hither from Cologne in 1268 ; their 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 195 
 
 Palace now serves to contain the University ; it is of 
 immense size, with a facade nearly a quarter of a mile 
 long, and includes the Lecture-rooms, Library of about 
 100,000 volumes, and the Academical Hall, recently 
 decorated with frescos, painted under the direction of 
 Cornelius, a living artist, by his pupils. The subjects 
 are the four faculties, Philosophy, Jurisprudence, Medi 
 cine, in which Cuvier and LinnsBus are conspicuous, and 
 Theology, where Luther, Calvin, Wickliffe, St. Jerome 
 and the Fathers, and Ignatius Loyola, and other di 
 vines, both Catholic and Protestant, are introduced. 
 The artist who painted the Philosophy seems to have 
 shown undue favor to his own countrymen : thus, Homer 
 appears sadly in the background in comparison with 
 Wieland and Herder ; Goethe is made prominent, at the 
 expense of Shakspeare and Dante, who hold very subor 
 dinate situations and are very indistinctly defined ; Vir 
 gil and Aristotle are sadly eclipsed by others of the mod 
 erns ; while Bacon, Socrates, and Cicero, are in a great 
 degree thrown into the shade. 
 
 The same building contains the Museum of Rhenish 
 Antiquities, a very large and interesting assemblage of 
 local remains discovered on the banks of the Rhine, and 
 
196 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 relics of Roman settlements in this part of Germany. 
 They are placed under the care of the veteran Professor 
 Schlegel, to whom application must be made for a ticket 
 of admission. It is much to be lamented that the collec 
 tion is, as yet, neither named nor catalogued. The fol 
 lowing seem to be the most remarkable objects : A Ro 
 man altar, dedicated to Victory, which formerly stood in 
 the square, called Homer Platz, and is supposed by some 
 to be the identical Ara Abiorurn mentioned by Tacitus 
 (Annal. I. 39.) A bronze vase, bearing figures of Her 
 cules, Mars, and Venus, in a pure style of art, found at 
 Zulpich. Numerous weapons, trinkets, vases, glass ves 
 sels, a winged head of Mercury, found at Hadernheim ; 
 the gravestone of one M. Cselius, who fell in the great 
 battle of Varus (bello Variano), against Arminus (? if 
 genuine) ; Jupiter s wig, and thunderbolt of bronze, from 
 the Hundsruck ; tiles stamped with the numbers of seve 
 ral Roman legions (xxi. xxii.) stationed in these parts ; 
 a Roman mill-stone of Mendig tufa, and an ancient Ger 
 man shield of wood, dug up at Isenburg, in Westphalia, 
 besides 200 bronzes. 
 
 An avenue of chestnuts, about half a mile long, form 
 ing an agreeable walk, conducts to the Chateau of Pop- 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 197 
 
 pelsdorf, which has also been appropriated by the King 
 to the use of the University, and contains the Museum 
 of Natural History. The collection of minerals and fos 
 sils is particularly extensive and good, and especially in 
 teresting, as illustrating the geology of the Rhine, and 
 of the volcanic deposits of the Siebengebirge and Eifel ; 
 arranged by Professor Goldfuss. Among the fossil re 
 mains may be seen a complete series from the brown 
 coal formation of Friesdorf, near Bonn. A set of fossil 
 frogs, from the most perfect state down to that of a tad 
 pole, discovered in the shale called paper-coal, deserves 
 notice. Attached to the chateau is the Botanic Garden 
 very spacious, very rich, beautifully situated, and ad 
 mirably kept. 
 
 The Minster, surmounted by five towers, is a stately 
 building externally, in the older or round-arched Gothic 
 style ; the interior is very plain. It was founded in 320, 
 by Helena, mother of Constantine the Great, and con 
 tains a bronze statue of her. The choir, with its two 
 towers, the crypt and the cloisters, date probably from 
 1151 ; the rest of the church is later, probably 1270. 
 
 Beethoven, the composer, was born in the house JNTo. 
 934, Rhein Strasse, A monument is erected to his 
 
198 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 memory in the Market-place. In the church-yard out 
 side the Sternen Thor Niebuhr, the historian is buried. 
 Here also are the graves of several students killed in duels. 
 
 The most notable events in the annals of Bonn, are its 
 capture after a long siege, in 1584, by Archbishop Ernest 
 of Bavaria, from Gebhard Truchsess, who had been de 
 posed from the see, because he had become a Protestant ; 
 and its surrender to the English and Dutch army under 
 Marlborough, in 1703, after a siege the operations of 
 which were conducted by the celebrated Coehorn. In 
 the course of it a great part of the town was burnt. 
 
 At Bonn the beauties of the Rhine may be said to 
 have already commenced." 
 
 But, the scenery it is said commences at about 20 
 miles above Cologne. And now it is in view ! Grand 
 and lofty hills or mountains rise from the water s edge. 
 The seven mountains are now around us. And really I 
 am now on the Rhine. A reality, yet like a fairy 
 dream. About this river I have heard and read a great 
 deal. History, romance, and song, dwell along these 
 banks. The towering cliffs frown down the works of man. 
 
 These hills bear on their points the ruins of palaces 
 and fortifications. Crumbling they loiter down to the 
 
EUKOPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 199 
 
 very edge of the water. Towers appear on our right 
 and on our left. 
 
 Ages have rolled on the years, and every year has 
 added interest to the events already recorded. 
 
 ! beautiful ! As we turn from one point of view 
 to another, every variety of scenery is presented. Along 
 these deep valleys are fields growing with the grape, and 
 harvest. Every hill looks down. And the sides of the banks 
 seem places as wild as any scenery in America. The 
 hills jutting up from all directions present new features. 
 Town after town, city after city, and village, cluster on 
 the edge of the banks. 
 
 Every point of land has with it associations which the 
 traveller beholds with a great deal of interest. Legends, 
 and notions of superstition are creeping into the ideas of 
 people even here. Our guide-books relate to us many a 
 fabulous story connected with miracles of deliverance. 
 
 Poetry and song. Over this river each sweet strain 
 has exhausted itself. The Germans rightly think that 
 there is only one Rhine in the world. "We give them 
 credit for love of country, and we ask them the same, 
 when we say it would take twenty-five or thirty such 
 rivers to make one Mississippi ! 
 
200 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 When any nation comes to boasting of rivers, we have 
 one too that could swallow all the German rivers at 
 once. 
 
 Along these banks in profusion lay the fragments of 
 ancient glory. The thirty years war has left its sad me 
 morials along its shore. Armies have stood gazing at 
 each other from bank to bank. These high hills have 
 been clothed with mailed warriors. Furious they have 
 rushed on against one another, arid blood has rolled on, 
 and mingled in the stream. 
 
 The armies of the Romans have made these shores 
 rumble with their tread ; their voice has echoed along its 
 bank. 
 
 thou river of majestic beauty, and grandeur ! A tale 
 couldst thou unfold, if but to mortal ears thy silent waters 
 could only speak. Undisturbed kings repose along thy 
 shore, and no voice nor shout shall ever wake them to 
 battle again. Thy waters they have disturbed. Thy 
 glens they have loaded with their gains, and defaced thy 
 natural walls. Lofty and giant trees waved on high their 
 proud and shaggy tops, where now whisper the leaves of 
 the vine. I would be willing to linger on thy shore, 
 could the scene which nations have acted be once more 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 201 
 
 brought in view. From the frozen tops of the Icy 
 Alps, thy waters drip, and gently roll. Along thy 
 course, Princes bow to thee. Till lost in the ocean of 
 immensity. 
 
 ! see, see ! the grand peaks of the hills on the left. 
 Our boat whirls from eddy to eddy. The company gaze 
 and admire. The long and narrow steamer cuts the 
 water without much noise. 
 
 " Bang," " Bang," echoes the firing of a gun ; and the 
 sound rolls back, and back again, from side to side. 
 
 This is done at every steamer that passes here, for the 
 pleasure of travellers, that they might hear the sound. 
 
 The hills gradually rise higher and higher. We have 
 just passed the palace where the Queen of England stay 
 ed when she was here on a recent visit. Beautiful pal 
 aces rest on the sides of the hills. Old ruins, ivy-covered, 
 lay desolate on each hill, and towers leaning to the water s 
 edge. Tales and Legends are told at each crevice of the 
 rocks. Wonders and displays of miraculous power, and 
 a great deal of superstition, much more than the North 
 American Indians ever had. 
 
 The Germans adore this river. Its historians, J. V. 
 Miiller, Heeren, Rotleck, Ranke, and Winklemann, have 
 
202 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 left on their shores which other generations will see and 
 admire. 
 
 Its poets, the names, Lessing, Gessner, Wieland, Gil- 
 lert, Vass Stolberg, Gothe, and Schiller, have all left some 
 thing as a memento of their fond love for this noble 
 river. 
 
 I will give here a few specimens of the ardor they feel 
 for this river, by a German writer : 
 
 " There are rivers, whose course is longer, and whose 
 volume of water is greater, but none which unites almost 
 everything that can render an earthly object magnificent 
 and charming, in the same degree as the Rhine. As it 
 flows down from the distant ridges of the Alps, through 
 fertile regions into the open sea, so it comes down from 
 remote antiquity, associated in every age with momen 
 tous events in the history of the neighboring nations. A 
 river which presents so many historical recollections of 
 Roman conquests and defeats, of the chivalric exploits in 
 the feudal periods, of the wars and negotiations of modern 
 times, of the coronations of emperors, whose bones repose 
 by its side ; on whose borders stand the two grandest 
 monuments of the noble architecture of the middle ages ; 
 whose banks present every variety of wild and picturesque 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 203 
 
 rocks, thick forests, fertile plains ; vineyards, sometimes 
 gently sloping, sometimes perched among lofty crags, 
 where industry has won a domain among the fortresses of 
 nature ; whose banks are ornamented with populous 
 cities, flourishing towns and villages, castles and ruins, 
 with which a thousand legends are connected ; with 
 beautiful and romantic roads, and salutary mineral 
 springs ; a river whose waters offer choice fish, as its 
 banks offer the choicest wines ; which, in its course of 
 900 miles affords 630 miles of uninterrupted navigation, 
 from Basle to the sea, and enables the inhabitants of its 
 banks to exchange the rich and various products of its 
 shores ; whose cities, famous for commerce, science, and 
 works of strength, which furnish protection to Germany, 
 are also famous as the seats of Homan colonies, and of 
 ecclesiastical councils, and are associated with many of 
 the most important events recorded in the history of man 
 kind ; such a river it is not surprising that the Germans 
 regard with a kind of reverence, and frequently call in 
 poetry Father, or King Rhine. " 
 
 Just before us is the rapid below Castell. The waters 
 roar here in great commotion. The mountains are higher 
 here still, and before night, I set down to read again 
 
204 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 the description which Byron by the following lines has 
 immortalized this as well as himself, in writing the fol 
 lowing description of this beautiful and strange river. 
 
 The whole day I have spent in looking over these 
 ruins, and the crags everywhere to be seen. 
 
 On the banks of the majestic Rhine, 
 There Harold gazes on a work divine, 
 A blending of all beauties ; streams and dells, 
 Fruit, foliage, crs\g, wood, cornfield, mountain, vine, 
 And chiefless castles breathing etern farewells 
 From gray but leafy walls, where Ruin greenly dwells. 
 
 And there they stand, as stands a lofty mind, 
 "Worn, but unstooping to the baser crowd, 
 All tenantless, save to the cranny ing wind, 
 Or holding dark communion with the cloud. 
 There was a day when they were young and proud, 
 Banners on high, and battles pass d below ; 
 But they who fought are in a bloody shroud, 
 And those which waved are shredless dust e er now, 
 And the bleak battlements shall bear no future blow. 
 
 Beneath these battlements, within those walls, 
 Power dwelt amidst her passions ; in proud state 
 Each robber chief upheld his armed halls, 
 Doing his evil will, nor less elate 
 Than mightier heroes of a longer date. 
 What want these outlaws conquerors should have ? 
 But History s purchased page to call them great ? 
 A wider space, and ornamented grave ? 
 Their hopes were not less warm, their souls were full as brave. 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 205 
 
 In their baronial feuds and single fields, 
 What deeds of prowess unrecorded died 1 
 And Love, which lent a blazon to their shields, 
 With emblems well devised by amorous pride, 
 Through all the mail of iron hearts would glide ; 
 But still their flame was fierceness, and drew on 
 Keen contest and destruction near allied, 
 And many a tower for some fair mischief won, 
 Saw the discolor d Rhine, beneath its ruin run. 
 
 But Thou, exulting and abounding river ! 
 Making thy waves a blessing as they flow 
 Through banks whose beauty would endure forever 
 Could man but leave th y bright creation so, 
 Nor its fair promise from the surface mow 
 With the sharp scythe of conflict, then to see 
 Thy valley of sweet waters, were to know 
 Earth paved like Heaven ; and to seem such to me, 
 Even now what wants thy stream ? that it should Lethe be. 
 
 A thousand battles have assail d thy banks, 
 But these and half their fame have pass d away, 
 And Slaughter heap d on high his weltering ranks : 
 Their very graves are gone, and what are they ? 
 Thy tide wash d down the blood of yesterday, 
 And all was stainless, and on thy clear stream 
 Glass d with its dancing light the sunny ray ; 
 But o er the blacken d memory s blighting dream 
 Thy waves would vainly roll, all sweeping as they seem. 
 
 Adieu to thee, fair Rhine ! How long delighted 
 The stranger fain would linger on his way ! 
 Thine is a scene alike where souls united 
 Or lonely Contemplation thus might stray ; 
 
206 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 And could the ceaseless vultures cease to prey 
 On self-condemning bosoms it were here, 
 Where Nature, nor too sombre, nor too gay, 
 Wild but not rude, awful yet not austere, 
 Is to the mellow earth as Autumn to the year 
 
 Adieu to thee again ! a vain adieu! 
 There can be no farewell to scene like thine : 
 The mind is color d by thy every hue ; 
 And if reluctantly the eyes resign 
 Their cherish d gaze upon thee, lovely Rhine ! 
 Tis with the thankful glance of parting praise ; 
 More mighty spots may rise more glaring shine, 
 But none unite in one attaching maze 
 The brilliant, fair, and soft the glories of old days. 
 
 The negligently grand, the fruitful bloom 
 Of coming ripeness, the white city s sheen, 
 The rolling stream, the precipice s gloom, 
 The forest s growth, and Gothic walls between, 
 The wild rocks shaped as they had turrets been 
 In mockery of man s art ; and these withal 
 A race of faces happy as the scene, 
 Whose fertile bounties here extend to all, 
 Still springing o er thy banks, though Empires near them fall. 
 
 BYRON. 
 
 what power and beauty is there in those lines after 
 one has looked on this majestic river ! 
 
 The night intercepts our view. The towns and villa 
 ges of the Germans show their lights and fires, and the 
 city of Mayence is in sight, oil our right ; on our left is 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 207 
 
 the fortified town of Castell, where we land and reluct 
 antly leave our boat, and 20 miles more then we shall be 
 in the free city of Frankfort. 
 
 After a delay of two hours we have at last started, 
 and an hour s journey or more we are in Frankfort ! and 
 only 4,300 miles from home. But thank heaven I am 
 safe. 
 
CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 PEACE CONGRESS. 
 
 THE proceedings of the Third General Peace Congress, 
 were opened on Thursday, the 22d of August, 1850, at 
 Frankfort-on-the-Maine, in St. Paul s Church, the build 
 ing made memorable by the recent meetings of the 
 Frankfort Parliament. It is a handsome circular build 
 ing, with a gallery supported by marble columns, and 
 was fitted up in its present state for the German Parlia 
 ment. Behind the President s chair, was a large shield 
 emblazoned with the German eagle, whilst above the 
 crimson drapery on which this heraldic decoration rested, 
 were three flags, each black, crimson and gold. The 
 staves surrounded by triumphal wreaths. The aspect of 
 the interior of St. Paul s Church on the 22d, attracted, 
 however, much less attention than did one of its visitors, 
 when it was whispered round the place that General 
 Haynau was present. 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 209 
 
 He sat for some time near one of the side doors, listen 
 ing, apparently with much attention, but left before the 
 termination of the proceedings. The seats lately occu 
 pied by the members of the Frankfort Parliament, were 
 on the present occasion filled by a numerous company, 
 made up of Germans, Englishmen, Americans, French 
 men, and Belgians. The seat put up for the Archduke 
 John, and subsequently occupied by M. Gagern, was now 
 filled by the President (for that year) of the Peace Con 
 gress, Herr Jaup, late Minister of Hesse-Darmstadt. 
 There were about 500 English present, out of an audi 
 ence of 2000. 
 
 Among the delegates to the meeting, were R. Cobden, 
 Esq., M. P. ; Chas. Hindley, Esq., M. P. ; Lawrence 
 Heyworth, Esq., M. P. ; Dr. Lee, F. R. S. ; Revs. J. 
 Burrett, E. Miall, and H. Richards ; Elihu Burritt, Jo 
 seph Sturge, J. Wilson, Dr. Dick, and others, from Eng 
 land. The list of American deputies included, Massa 
 chusetts, Rev. Mark Trafton, Boston, Rev. Dr. Hitchcock, 
 Rev. Mr. Sargent, John Tappan, Esq. ; Maine, Rev. Da 
 vid Thurston ; Rhode Island, Rev. Dr. Hall ; New 
 Hampshire, Hon. John Prentiss ; Connecticut, Rev. G. W. 
 Pennington ; New York, G. Williams, Henry Garret ; 
 
210 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 Pennsylvania, Prof. C. D. Cleveland, Samuel Sartain ; 
 Kentucky, W. H. G. Butler, Patrick Joyes ; Missouri, 
 Rev. Dr. Bullard, arid from the North American Indians, 
 the Chief Kah-ge-ga-gah-bowh, or Geo. Copway, in cos 
 tume. From Illinois, T. Eastman ; Indiana, A. R. For- 
 syth ; Michigan, N. H. B. Dowling ; American Peace 
 Society, L. S. Jacobs. 
 
 From France the following gentlemen attended : M. M. 
 Cormenin, ancien depute, member of the French Council 
 of State ; Emile de Girardin, Editor of La Presse ; Joseph 
 Gamier, Professor of Political Economy ; Guilaumin, 
 Editor of the Economist ; Coqueril, fils ; Lacan, Ernest, 
 Pontonie, fils. From Brussels, M. Visschers, M. Depeti- 
 aux, Inspector-General of Prisons in Belgium. Germany 
 contributed delegates from Darmstadt, Leipsic, Wiesbaden, 
 Mainx, Homberg, Bonn, Giessen, Frankfort, and other 
 places. 
 
 The Congress sat three days, there being a morning 
 and evening session each day. 
 
 The correspondence of the London Times, spoke of us 
 the following : 
 
 " A North American Indian, who entered with the 
 other delegates, but who has not yet spoken, was received 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 211 
 
 with plaudits almost equal to those which hailed the en 
 trance of Cobden." 
 
 FIRST DAY. 
 
 The centre of St. Paul s Church was appropriated to 
 the members of the foreign delegation, and to the Ger 
 man members of the Congress ; the galleries both on the 
 ground floor and above, being accommodated to the ac 
 commodation of visitors, among whom was a large num 
 ber of ladies. 
 
 The business of the Congress commenced each day at 
 ten o clock, A. M. The first resolution submitted to the 
 Congress, was to the following effect : 
 
 " The Congress of the friends of Universal Peace, as 
 sembled at Frankfort-on-the-Main, on the 22d, 23d, and 
 24th of August, 1850, acknowledge that recourse to arms 
 being condemned alike by religion, morality, reason, and 
 humanity, it is the duty of all men to adopt measures cal 
 culated to abolish war ; and the Congress recommends 
 all its members to labor in their respective Countries by 
 means of a better education of youth, by the pulpit, the 
 platform, and the press, as well as by other practical 
 methods to eradicate those hereditary hatreds, and politi- 
 
212 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 cal and commercial prejudices which have been so gene 
 rally the cause of disastrous wars." 
 
 The following members spoke in favor of this resolu 
 tion, which was carried by a unanimous vote. The Eev. 
 John Burrett, Le Pasttor, Bonnet of Paris, M. de Car- 
 menin, of Paris ; H. J. Garret, of New York, (whose ap 
 pearance, he being of a pure negro blood, excited consid- 
 arable sensation and interest.) 
 
 The second resolution, as follows, was presented in a 
 speech of great power by M. Visschers, of Brussels. 
 
 " This Congress is of opinion that one of the most ef 
 fectual means of preserving peace, would be for Govern 
 ments to refer to arbitration all those differences between 
 them which cannot otherwise be amicably settled." 
 
 This was supported by M. Bach, of Darmstadt ; M. 
 Mourch, of Frankfort ; M. Emile de Girardin (this gentle 
 man rising to reply to some difficulties which had been 
 suggested in the practical application of arbitration) ; 
 Prof. Cleveland, of the United States ; and Richard Cob- 
 den, M. P. 
 
 Mr. Cobden said it was not his intention to have spoken 
 that day, but he must say a word or two on the supposed 
 difficulties of arbitration. No doubt there were difficul- 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 213 
 
 ties but were there not difficulties in war too ? and 
 what he wished to put before the diplomatists of Europe 
 and America was, which of these difficulties will you 
 choose war or arbitration ? One of them it must be ; 
 for you confess that neither your diplomacy, nor your me 
 diation enable you to settle your quarrels generally about 
 some point of etiquette or trumpery debt of a few thou 
 sand pounds. What he wanted was, if the people of 
 England or America, saw their Governments again invol 
 ved in a quarrel with some weaker power, whether on 
 the shores of Portugal or Greece, and refusing the offer 
 made by such a power to settle the dispute by arbitration, 
 but resorting to the sword to enforce their demands, then 
 he did hope that the people would drive such govern 
 ments from power, and supply their places with men 
 who would do the business in a more workma alike man 
 ner. Mr. Cobden alluded to the progress which the 
 Peace cause had made during the past year, and said 
 that two remarkable illustrations of this progress had oc 
 curred in the last peace meeting which he attended in 
 London, and in the meeting which he was then address 
 ing at Frankfort. At the meeting in London he sat side 
 by side with General Klapka, the general who had un- 
 
214 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 successfully fought the battles in Hungary. At the meet 
 ing of this present Congress, at Frankfort, no less a person 
 than General Haynau had for some time occupied a place 
 among the visitors (General H. had left the hall before 
 Mr. Cobden rose to speak). He (Mr. C.) thought it very 
 significant, when they found at their meetings such men 
 as the military leaders, both of liberty and despotism. It 
 incited in these men s minds something like the dawn of 
 a suspicion that their own profession was not of the most 
 stable and satisfactory character. (Cheers). 
 
 THE SECOND DAY. 
 
 Charles Hindi ey, Esq. proposed the second resolution : 
 " That the standing armaments with which the govern 
 ments of Europe menace one another impose intolerable 
 burdens and inflict grievous moral and social evils upon 
 their respective communities ; this Congress cannot there 
 fore too earnestly call the attention of governments to 
 the necessity of entering upon a system of international 
 disarmament, without prejudice to such measures as may 
 be considered necessary for the maintenance of the secu 
 rity of the citizens and the internal tranquillity of each 
 State." 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 215 
 
 The Hon. gentleman brought forward a vast body of 
 statistics, with a view to show that war had always con 
 tributed to national ruin, for which reason it was necessa 
 ry to abolish the existing standing armies, the prime 
 cause of war. He expressed the belief that the time 
 would arrive at which national hatred would cease and 
 all men be brethren. 
 
 Mr. Hindley was loudly applauded. 
 
 The Rabbi Stein, of Frankfort, said that war ought 
 not to be admitted, even in self-defence, as the limit at 
 which self-defence began would be difficult to define. 
 
 Instead, he remarked, of making weapons of war, let 
 men be employed in cultivating land, and if Europe 
 were not large enough, there was America. Let the 
 governments of Europe, instead of dividing men by the 
 sword, employ them in making railways. 
 
 M. Joseph Gamier showed that permanent armies 
 render unproductive a great part of the force of man, 
 and that consequently armies diminish the welfare of 
 societies. He showed also that the governments, by 
 standing armies, are obliged to crush the people by taxa 
 tion. 
 
 The Rev. Mr. Butter of the State of Missouri, dwelt 
 
216 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 on the fact that the United States has no permanent 
 army, though they were larger than any European 
 State. 
 
 M. Emile de Girardin, next spoke. He remarked 
 that the immense sums which armies had cost would 
 have enabled great works of peace to be accomplished, 
 and all social problems to be solved. After the revolu 
 tion of February, he had, he said, cried " Disarm, dis 
 arm ! Have confidence in the justice of our cause, and 
 in the sentiments of all the nations of Europe." But he 
 had not been listened to, and had been accused of 
 treason. Well, two armies had been sent to the Rhine 
 and the Alps, and what glory had Frenchmen gained ? 
 They had given themselves two enemies misery and 
 hunger, and had lighted up war in their streets. 
 
 Mr. Cobden said that standing armies were more dan 
 gerous in peace than in war. War was a state of mad 
 ness and passion for which some excuse might be made, 
 but a standing armament was a permanent injustice. 
 
 The third resolution was then adopted. 
 
 The fourth resolution was then brought forward. It 
 was as follows 
 
 " This Congress reiterates its strong disapprobation of 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 217 
 
 all foreign loans negotiated for the purpose of furnishing 
 to one people the means of slaughtering another." 
 
 M. Drucjcer of Amsterdam, considered that the par 
 ticipation among the different nations of twenty-five mil 
 lions of paper money was a powerful guarantee for 
 peace. 
 
 M. E. de Girardin said that certain democrats re 
 garded war as the only means of reconquering their lost 
 liberties, but the money he thought might be employed 
 in more useful purposes. War could not be carried on 
 without means, and therefore if loans of money were re 
 fused it could not take place ; he should therefore support 
 the resolution. 
 
 M. Z. de Stettin remarked that a general customs 
 union between all nations of the world would be the best 
 guarantee against war. 
 
 The fourth resolution was carried, and second day s 
 sittings brought to a close. 
 
 THIRD, AND LAST DAY. 
 
 Notwithstanding the inclemency of the weather, the 
 meeting of the Congress was well attended. Some ex 
 citement was produced by the appearance of the Rev. 
 
 10 
 
218 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 Mr. Copway, formerly a native American Indian Chief, 
 who spoke at great length and with much energy on the 
 immorality and irreligion of war. The preceding speak 
 ers had been limited in their observations to speeches of 
 twenty minutes each ; but, in consequence of the pecu 
 liar circumstances of this case, he was allowed to address 
 the meeting for forty minutes. The speech of this per 
 son was received with much enthusiasm. He proposed 
 the fifth resolution, namely 
 
 " This Congress acknowledging the principle of non 
 intervention, recognizes it to be the sole right of every 
 state to regulate its own affairs." 
 
 Mr. Copway was followed by two German gentlemen, 
 Dr. Nell and Dr. Bodensee. The latter speaker urged 
 the Congress to undertake the settlement of the Schles- 
 wig-Holstein question. The proposition did not apparent 
 ly meet with a very cordial reception. 
 
 The Chairman suggested that the introduction of that 
 question would involve a breach of their rules which pro 
 hibited the discussion of any existing political question. 
 
 Mr. Cobden also observed, that it would be impossible 
 for the Congress then to go on with the subject, as nei 
 ther party appeared to be duly represented at the meeting. 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 219 
 
 The resolution was adopted. 
 
 The sixth resolution was as follows : " This Congress 
 recommends all the friends of Peace to prepare public 
 opinion in their respective countries for the convocation 
 of a Congress of the representatives of the various 
 states, with a view to the formation of a code of interna 
 tional law." 
 
 Mr. E. Miall, repudiated the notion that there was 
 anything visionary or Utopian in the peace movement, 
 and made a strong protest against what are called 
 " practical men." 
 
 Elihu Burritt, entered into a history of the peace 
 theory, which he maintained owed its origin to France 
 and Germany and not to America. 
 
 Mr. Chapin of New York, astonished the assembly by 
 a burst of Yankee eloquence, and the novel coloring 
 which he gave to rather old materials. 
 
 The resolution was carried, together with an additional 
 one against duelling. On the latter M. Carmenin and 
 M. Girardin spoke. A vote of thanks to the municipal 
 authorities of Frankfort followed, in honor of whom Mr. 
 Cobden led an English " Hip, hip, hurrah," to the intense 
 astonishment of tne Germans. 
 
220 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 It was then resolved that the proceedings should be 
 printed and circulated at a small charge ; and a vote of 
 thanks to Dr. Jaup having been passed, the proceedings 
 were declared at an end. 
 
 The Congress it was announced would be held in Lon 
 don next year, which will take place about the month of 
 August, 1851. 
 
CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 AFTER SKETCHES OF SPEECHES AND MEN. 
 
 THE last of the Congress is about over, and I have 
 made my poorest speech. For never in my life did I 
 speak to such disadvantage. The people had already 
 heard Girardin, the French orator, Cobden, and a host of 
 others. The speeches of these men had given a common 
 place character to the speeches which were to come after 
 them. The people had become tired of listening, and 
 seemed to have no desire for anything new. Besides 
 this, no new feature could be brought forward in support 
 of the great cause of Peace, and all the arguments had 
 been worn threadbare. The good speeches had preceded 
 me, and the very best, which was to be delivered by the 
 Rev. E. H. Chapin, of New York city, was just at my 
 heels. In this predicament I could not look upon my 
 self with any great degree of confidence, nor as being in 
 a very enviable situation. 
 
 
222 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 The fifth resolution, which was moved by me, was as 
 follows : 
 
 " This Congress acknowledging the principle of non 
 intervention, recognizes it to be the sole right of every 
 State to regulate its own affairs." 
 
 I will not trouble the reader with even an outline of 
 the remarks with which I endeavored to enforce the reso 
 lution. It is enough to say that they were listened to 
 with more attention than I expected, and more than they 
 deserved . It is doubtful whether any but members of 
 a Peace Congress would be so lenient. 
 
 I will give a short passage from the papers which 
 kindly noticed me, not in the way of boasting, but to re 
 cord the good- will and kind feeling of the people with, 
 whom I sojourned : 
 
 " The personal appearance and manner of the different 
 members of the Congress, gave occasion to many inter 
 esting sketches. None seemed to attract more notice 
 than an Indian Chief, who it appears was one of the 
 delegates from America. His Indian name is given as 
 Ka-ge-ga-ga-bowh, and some accounts call him a chief 
 of the Ottoways, while others mention him as being 
 of the Ojibbeways. In some papers he is also called 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 223 
 
 Rev. Copway. One correspondent speaks of him as fol 
 lows : 
 
 " The ladies direct their looks no longer to the finely 
 bearded men on the left ; the beardless Indian Chief, 
 with the noble Roman profile, and the long, shining, 
 black hair, takes their attention. He bears in his hand a 
 long, and mystically ornamented staff, which looks like a 
 princely sceptre, and wears a dark blue frock, with a 
 scarf over his shoulders, and bright metallic plates upon 
 his right arm. The Frankforters are sorry that he wears 
 a modern hat, instead of a cap with feathers, yet this 
 mixture of European elegance with Indian nature has a 
 striking effect, which is increased by the reflection that 
 he has come from the forests of the New World, with a 
 message of peace to the Old, though he finds more gaping 
 curiosity than sympathy." 
 
 His manner on entering the tribune is described as 
 follows : 
 
 " An aristocratic bearing and is not the orator a 
 Prince ? an earnest, calm countenance, well-toned voice, 
 few, but natural gestures, and an epic manner, as if he 
 stood in the midst of his tribe, relating clearly, and with 
 out passion, some important occurrence. But by degrees 
 
 
224 EUEOPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 he becomes warmer, steps back and forth in the tribune, 
 raises his voice, which he now accompanies with more 
 passionate gestures, and finally with words that I did not 
 understand, brings forward his Indian pipe of peace, and 
 amid the greatest enthusiasm presents it to the President 
 of the assembly." 
 
 In the course of two hours after, my speech was in the 
 language of the Germans. I might have done something 
 towards leaving a good impression of the speaking powers 
 of an aboriginal American, had not a portly Yankee 
 come forward and taken from my hand the laurels. But 
 glad I am that it is an American who has won the best 
 expression of feeling and approbation of the people. 
 
 The speeches of Girardin and the matter-of-fact Cob- 
 den had shaken the pillars of the immense building in 
 which the multitude were assembled ; but the speech was 
 yet to be delivered. 
 
 The name " E. H. Chapin" was called, and the person 
 who answered to that name passed by my side and went 
 up to the tribune. No sooner had he commenced speak 
 ing than there was felt to be something beyond the power 
 of language, or the mere expression of ideas. The audi 
 ence listened. Now and then an applause escaped the 
 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 225 
 
 assembly. He enumerated the reasons why we should 
 expect peace, and the blessings which would flow from 
 it. In a few words, in vivid flashes, he pictured the 
 whole course of improvement and reform which had fol 
 lowed the invention of the printing press. The Bible 
 was on its way the sails of every land, and the mighty 
 power of steam, were urging on the period of universal 
 peace oceans, lakes, rivers, air, electricity, all things 
 were in motion to spread the event which is the desire 
 of all nations. The steamer was dragging its rope of 
 gold across the sea, from one continent and island to 
 another and as he closed, the applause of the assembly 
 made the very building tremble. 
 
 In the midst of this thundering applause he again 
 passed me, and as soon as he sat down I arose, not know 
 ing what I was doing, and said, " It was well worth 
 while to come 4,000 miles to deliver such an address," 
 and then sitting down and turning to my English friends 
 I whispered, " There ! try arid beat that if you can !" 
 
 Certainly this was very injudicious, inasmuch as it 
 might have been construed into an insult, but I could not 
 help it, for my nerves had been so run away with that I 
 
 lost all rny self-command. 
 
 10* 
 
226 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 The following sketch of the Rev. Mr. Chapin, in an 
 English paper, will be recognized by those who have 
 seen and heard him. It is very life-like : 
 
 " Edwin H. Chapin is one of the ablest and most elo 
 quent expounders and defenders of the doctrine of unlim 
 ited salvation. He has no faith in the old black fellow 
 who keeps the fire-office down stairs. He imagines that 
 poets and divines give him more credit for sagacity and 
 potency than he deserves, and that if he ever was a 
 genius he is now in his dotage, and furthermore that he 
 has not goodness enough to be entitled to our respect, nor 
 influence sufficient over our future destiny to alarm our 
 fears. To him a devil by any other name is just as 
 dreadful, and the Satan he endeavors to subdue he calls 
 Evil, Sin, Crime, Vice, Error. He thinks the distillery, 
 where the worm dieth not and the fires are unquenched, 
 is a hell on earth which causes weeping, wailing and 
 gnashing of teeth. 
 
 Mr. Chapin is an independent, straight-forward man, 
 who has a will and a way of his own, and he is willing 
 to allow others the same freedom he assumes himself. 
 He doos riot expect his church to cough when he takes 
 cold, nor to perspire when he is warm, nor to sneeze 
 
RE V. D R. CH A PI N 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 227 
 
 when he takes snuff, nor to acquiesce in silent submission 
 to every proposition that he makes. He is not a theologi 
 cal tyrant, threatening vengeance and outer-darkness and 
 eternal fire to all the members of his flock who will not 
 uncomplainingly and unhesitatingly yield to his spiritual 
 supervisorship. His lessons and lectures may sometimes 
 smell of the lamp, but they never smell of brimstone. 
 His education, his temperament, his organization of 
 brain, his natural benevolence, and the society in which 
 he has lived, moved, and had his being, have contributed 
 to make him a preacher of the gospel. He advocates 
 with heroic courage and untiring zeal the doctrines of his 
 faith, but is universally respected by all denominations 
 of professing Christians. 
 
 Mr. Chapin is happily constituted. The animal and 
 the angel of his nature are so nicely balanced, and his 
 poetical temperament is so admirably controlled by his 
 practical knowledge, that his intellectual efforts are inva 
 riably stamped with the mint-mark of true currency. 
 There is a harmonious blending of the poetical and the 
 practical, a pleasant union of the material with the spir 
 itual, an arm-in-arm connection of the ornamental and 
 the useful, a body and soul joined together, in his dis- 
 
228 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 courses. He avoids two extremes, and is not so material 
 as to be cloddish or of the earth earthy, nor so aerial as 
 to be vapory or of the clouds cloudy. There is something 
 tangible, solid, nutritious and enduring in his sermons. 
 He is not profound in the learning of the schools. Many 
 of his inferiors could master him on doctrinal questions. 
 The outbursting and overwhelming effusions of his natu 
 ral eloquence, the striking originality of his conceptions, 
 the irresistible power of his captivating voice, the vivid 
 and copious display of illustration, thrill and charm the 
 appreciative hearer. He presents his arguments and ap 
 peals with an articulation as distinct and understandable 
 as his gesticulation is awkward. He is sometimes ab 
 rupt, rapid and vehement, but never " tears a passion to 
 tatters." His tenacious memory enables him to quote 
 with great promptitude, and he has that delicate, sensitive 
 taste which enables him to select with unerring precision 
 whatever is truly sublime and beautiful in an author. 
 
 Mr. Chapin declaims splendidly in spite of his hands, 
 which are always in his way. The stiff and technical 
 restraints of style which disfigure the pulpit efforts of 
 some divines never appear in his sermons, but seem 
 rather to pinion his elbows and cramp his fingers. He 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 229 
 
 has a fervid imagination, great facility of expression, is 
 scrupulously correct in his pronunciation. He never in 
 dulges in hypocritical cant. There is no theatrical up 
 lifting of the hands and uprolling of the eyes. He 
 seems to have a thorough knowledge of his subject, and 
 commands your admiration by the kingly majesty and 
 sublime beauty of his thought. Now he flings a page 
 of meaning into a single aphorism, now he electrifies 
 his spell-bound hearers with a spontaneous burst of elo 
 quence, now he dissolves their eyes to tears by a wizard 
 stroke of pathos, now he controls their hearts with the 
 sovereign power of a monarch who rules the mind-realm. 
 He infuses his soul into his voice, and both into the 
 nerves and heart of the hearers. 
 
 In person, he is stout, fleshy and well-proportioned. 
 His countenance is mild, benignant and thoughtful, with 
 an expression of integrity, denoting his inability to per 
 form a mean action. He is near-sighted, and his defect 
 is no small disadvantage to him when he reads, arid may 
 account for his ungrateful action in the pulpit, since it 
 compels him to face his manuscript so closely he almost 
 eats his own words and salutes his own rich figures and 
 glowing sentiments, and fulfils literally the scriptural 
 
230 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 maxim, " He shall kiss his own lips who giveth a correct 
 answer." But, as I have just intimated, he usually 
 reads his discourses, although he is an easy extemporane 
 ous speaker ; but he is apt to become so intensely excited 
 he rarely trusts to his impulses. He commands a very 
 ready pen, and is the author of two or three small 
 volumes which are widely circulated. He has a full, 
 florid face, which indicates good health and happy con 
 tentment. His hair is dark brown. He wears glasses, 
 so I cannot tell the color of his eyes. He has a broad, 
 high forehead, indicating the intellectual strength of its 
 owner. He is about forty-five years of age, and has la 
 bored with honor and success for many years in Rich 
 mond, Va., Charlestown, Mass., as well as Boston, but is 
 now preaching in the city of New York, where he is very 
 popular and useful." 
 
 The speeches of Emile de Girardin and Cobden on the 
 first day are thus spoken of in the correspondence of the 
 London Times, and for their style of speaking it is a very 
 good description : 
 
 " The appearance in the tribune of M. Ernile Girardin 
 was the signal for loud acclamations on the part of the 
 French auditors. He was the representative of France 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 231 
 
 par excellence, and his distingue appearance contrasted 
 strangely with the primitive look of many of his fellow 
 orators. His speech was equally different from those of 
 his predecessors. Biblical allusions were not in his way, 
 but he came in as a propounder of philosophical abstrac 
 tions, which he pointed off with French epigrammatic 
 neatness. The idea of unite was to be carried out 
 unite in everything ; and every time he said the word 
 unite it was with remarkable gusto. Then he got into 
 universal history, and, declaring that certain conquerors 
 of the Old World were named Alexander, Caesar, and 
 Napoleon, added that the victors of the New World were 
 named Watt, Wilberforce, &c. Civilization was the 
 great gain of modern Europe, and type and steam are 
 now to do what was done heretofore by fire and sword. 
 All this, delivered with an uniform style of gesticulation 
 peculiarly his own, told with great force ; and he could 
 retire with all the satisfaction of a brilliant Frenchman 
 who had exhibited son talent. 
 
 But, after all, the great card of the performance was 
 the speech of Mr. Cobden, which came in towards the 
 conclusion. Indeed, had it not been for this speech, I fear 
 the day s sport would have wound up rather coldly. The 
 
232 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 president, after the passing of the first resolution, which 
 occurred about 1 o clock, allowed the parties assembled 
 to retire for 10 minutes, and many thus retiring never 
 came back again. Hence considerably more empty seats 
 were visible in the afternoon than in the morning, and_ 
 two or three orations which opened the second act, and 
 included another speech by Girardin, a very long history 
 of William Penn, digested into an address from the Penn 
 sylvania Peace Society, were by no means of such a na 
 ture as to diffuse animation. But Cobden s speech set 
 all right. It was a bold, slashing address, not marked 
 throughout by good taste, but abounding in arguments 
 and illustrations which everybody could understand. In 
 calling attention to the second resolution, he said, that he 
 did not wish to interfere with the work of the diploma 
 tists, but merely insisted on the adoption of an interna 
 tional umpire when other peaceful means should fail, 
 protesting against war as a nuisance which every people 
 had a right to stop in defiance of the existing govern 
 ments. If no better peaceable plan could be found the 
 Governments were bound to adopt that proposed by the 
 Peace Congress ; and if any Government refused to adopt 
 a plan of arbitration the people should repudiate that 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 233 
 
 Government. This was pretty strong language, and the 
 vehemence of tone and gesture with which it was utter 
 ed stood out in strong relief against the sharp epigram 
 matic manner arid jerking action of M. Emile Girardin. 
 A. symbol had been furnished to Mr. Cobden on his jour 
 ney up the Rhine, and the comparison of the union of the 
 Rhine and the Moselle with that of all mankind in uni 
 versal brotherhood was pleasing to the audience when 
 they rested from uproariously applauding more peppery 
 displays. An allusion to the presence at the meeting of 
 General Haynau, as an evidence that even the warriors 
 themselves had become averse from their profession 
 though this was in the worst possible taste brought the 
 whole oration to a showy conclusion. The second reso 
 lution was carried immediately afterwards, and the meet 
 ing was adjourned till to-morrow, the audience being 
 kindly reminded of the dinner, which has been prepared 
 for them at the Main-lust." 
 
 
CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 SKETCHES CONTINUED. 
 
 THE town, or rather, as the Frankforters themselves 
 never fail to call it, the Free Town of Frankfort, was 
 unusually gay. Animated and crowded with lounging 
 travellers the streets always are ; but now there seemed 
 an unusual number, and generally not walking singly, 
 but in small groups, as if some bond of union held them 
 together, and as though one and the same aim had brought 
 them to the same spot. And then, too, one saw a great 
 
 number of they were like Englishmen, and yet there 
 
 was a difference. These were Americans ; and among 
 them, as well as those whose country in Cassar s time 
 was riot considered quite worthless, since it produced an 
 oyster, were not a few whose trim dress and staid sobriety 
 of demeanor marked at once the respectable sect to which 
 they belonged. And look at yonder dark figure- with 
 countenance so calm and imperturbable ! Whence com- 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 235 
 
 eth he ? In his hand he holds a long instrument, which 
 some may deem a weapon ; and round his left arm is a 
 band, seemingly a badge of authority. How black and 
 long the hair that falls without a wave down upon his 
 shoulders ! He is from the far, far West. Perhaps his 
 home has been w r here the Rocky Mountains fling their 
 huge shadow as the sun disappears behind them, while 
 their peaks flame like meteors in the sky. What leads 
 him hither ? why leaves he his hunting-grounds to come 
 to this European city ? from the plain that quakes be 
 neath the quick tramp of the buffalo to where the gentle 
 footfall of the pleasure-seeker is mingled with the meas 
 ured tread of well-disciplined European soldiery ? 
 
 What a glorious day ! How bright the sky and the 
 atmosphere how clear and transparent ! Even the fine 
 taper points of the lightning conductors, with which every 
 house is furnished, are distinctly visible from afar. How 
 that golden cross shines above the house-tops, looking 
 more like a sign from heaven than a thing of bronze 
 placed there by a mechanic s hands ! The edifice over 
 which it rises was once a church, but is so no longer. 
 Let us enter there. It is already w r ell filled with people ; 
 in the body of the building are men only, among whom 
 
236 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 we seem to recognize some we met yesterday in little 
 groups about the streets ; while around the edifice beneath 
 the gallery, supported by the massive columns, ladies have 
 taken their places. Before us is a raised tribune, over 
 which are hanging three flags, each with three stripes, 
 black, red, and gold. Still higher is a female figure, 
 with golden hair, like a true daughter of the north ; a 
 sword too, is in her hand, but it rests in repose. And on 
 each side, within a wreath of laurel, is a German rhyme, 
 to the effect that, even as this green garland is interwo 
 ven, so may all the people of Germany be entwined in 
 bonds of amity. For you must know that here, beneath 
 this very roof, not long ago did sit the deputies from city, 
 and town, and university from borough and village, 
 from every part of Germany. Here, elate with hope, and 
 promising themselves great things-, with fond expectations 
 of the realizing of long-cherished wishes, good, and wise, 
 and well-intentioned men met together to talk of plans 
 for their country s weal. But though calm hearts were 
 here, there were men, too, whose thoughts were of vio 
 lence ; and but few, if any, possessed that plain, practical 
 ability which, when something is to be done, is of more 
 avail than great stores of learning. And so nothing was 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 237 
 
 done. But the space within these walls, where till then 
 words of prayer, and exhortation, and praise had been 
 heard, became an arena for fierce contention ; and mad 
 dening words that led to blood resounded there amid the 
 
 ! 
 
 hoarse roar of popular applause. You have read of the 
 wild scenes of revolutionary France, and how orators 
 were cheered on by their party, till, with swimming brain 
 and in a frenzy of excitement, they uttered fearful threats 
 and terrible denunciations ; and how the calm and reso 
 lute were hooted, and their words drowned in the mad 
 screams and execrations of a rabble audience. And so 
 it was here beneath this very dome over which the 
 bright cross we saw just now was gleaming. How dif 
 ferent is the present assembly ! For what are they wait 
 ing ? 
 
 The bell has been rung, and silence instantly obtained. 
 We are now told the meaning of this assembling of men 
 from many lands. They come here to propose peace to 
 the nations to propose that war shall henceforth be no 
 more. It is a Peace Congress at which we are present ; 
 and on this errand these men have been brought togethei 
 from the remote parts of the earth. We will not argue 
 on the practicability of thus establishing universal peace : 
 
238 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 so strange are the revolutions which time brings about, 
 that even this too may happen. But there was some 
 thing that interested us more at this meeting than the 
 dim and uncertain result far off at all events, even if 
 ever attainable and it was this : to observe the differ 
 ence in the mode of thought and manner of utterance of 
 the speakers, assembled from different countries, with one 
 object and in one cause. Meetings are too common now- 
 a-days to offer much of novelty ; but we seldom see one 
 like this, where many men in their own peculiar language 
 give utterance to their peculiar thoughts. And it is for 
 this reason and this reason only that we have brought 
 you hither. 
 
 The first speaker is a Scotsman so at least we should 
 judge by his accent. Why, that one man s face is worth 
 all the speeches we may hear to-day, so indicative is it of 
 kindly feeling, light-heartedness, and hearty good-fellow 
 ship. How sunny the smile on his face as he utters his 
 conviction that men were not made to fight, seeing that 
 their fingers are not adapted for tearing, nor their teeth 
 for fastening on each other ! There is good-humor in his 
 argument, and good-feeling too ; and if his reasoning be 
 not incontrovertible in the cause of universal peace, we 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 239 
 
 still like war the less if it be only because it is repugnant 
 to him with whom, on any point whatever, we should be 
 sorry to be at variance. His language is plain and un 
 studied, and his meaning clear as the bright eye that an 
 imates his rosy countenance. No German could ever 
 speak so ; neither is there method enough in the arrange 
 ment to please the German mind. How could he touch 
 on such a topic without abstract principles and philo 
 sophic rules ? But let us listen to the German, and then 
 compare the two. 
 
 With thoughtful mien, with slow and rather heavy 
 step, he approaches the tribune. There is none of the 
 ease that was so prepossessing in the first speaker, for the 
 German would as soon think of putting aside his gravity 
 as of putting off his coat in public. Besides, he has to 
 speak before an assembly ; and the professor is perhaps 
 thinking of the Forum, and of the dignity of the toga, and 
 of the pride of ancient Rome. He looks very grave, for 
 he doubtless has well weighed the difficulties to be en 
 countered ; and instead of jumping to the conclusion, has 
 wrestled with the obstacles one by one, and forced his 
 way through by dint of argument. The toil is over, but 
 it is still present to his mind. This man is not one to 
 
240 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 make proselytes or gain adherents ; for both would be 
 deterred by a sense of the difficulties to be encountered, 
 and by the fear that they might not prove so manful in 
 the attack as he. You feel at once though, mind you, 
 he has hardly spoken yet that it is a serious affair you 
 are about, and that if you follow in his steps you will 
 have enough to do. He is not one to make light of a 
 difficult matter, and trusting somewhat to fortune, call 
 gaily for you to corne on. He tells you beforehand it is 
 difficult ; but then he will also tell you how difficulties 
 may be subdued, and indeed must be so if his calculations 
 be correct. 
 
 But now he is speaking, or rather he is reading his 
 speech. Do you understand his meaning ? Not always, 
 I think ; for it is the deduction of abstruse reasoning, and 
 one would need to read the same twice over to comprehend 
 it well. Besides, the sentences are long and intricate ; 
 there is an entanglement which you cannot well unravel ; 
 and many a relative pronoun, too, which puzzles you, as 
 you are not quite certain to which member of the sentence 
 it relates. It is too involved to be clear. But perchance 
 the speaker s thoughts are not quite definite either : hence 
 that vagueness which leaves you at the end where you 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 241 
 
 were when he began. He does not point out the road 
 you are to travel for the accomplishment of your purpose, 
 but he gives you theories which are to be your guide. 
 You do riot advance ; you are not carried forwards either 
 with or against your will ; but keeping the one point in 
 view, instead of approaching toivards it, you move round 
 it always at the same distance. Alas ! alas ! it was 
 this very fault which before, in these same walls, led to 
 nothing. Here, in the Peace Congress of the Nations, 
 I understood how Germany, like the virgins who slept, 
 entered not to the feast when at last the bridegroom came 
 for whose arrival they had so long been watching. 
 
 If you are tired of listening to the speaker, then look 
 at that man sitting on the right of the president, and 
 leaning back in his chair quite at his ease ; his right el 
 bow on the table, and his head resting on his hand. His 
 thin dark hair is combed over his forehead on the right, 
 his eyebrows are drawn somewhat together, and he 
 seems not to be merely looking at, but scrutinizing, those 
 before him. His mouth infirmly closed, by which I mean 
 that the lips do not merely gently touch each other, but 
 that they do so with a pressure. Such a mouth is always 
 
 indicative of steady resolve. As he sits there, moving 
 
 11 
 
242 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 only his eyes, but not turning his head, there is, me- 
 thinks, a rather dark expression about the brow. Perhaps 
 I may be wrong ; yet strangely enough, that countenance 
 recalls one I have elsewhere seen, over which, and with 
 good reason, an expression of gloom was spread. Now 
 look yourself, and tell me is there not in that head a 
 strange resemblance to one well known to you ? Does 
 it not remind you of Napoleon ? For my part I thought 
 at once of that picture where he is sitting after a defeat 
 with knitted brow and eyes gazing fixedly before him. It 
 is said that he whom you are looking at, and who at this 
 distance looks so like the Emperor, is related to him ; and 
 I dare say he is not disinclined to assist the resemblance 
 as much as is in his power. 
 
 The president reads the name of Emile Girardin as 
 being next on the list of those who have announced their 
 intention to speak ; and he whom we have been observ 
 ing rises and mounts the tribune. He moves with a 
 quick step ; he makes haste to obey the summons. He 
 seems quite at home in his present place, as if he were 
 accustomed to be often where he is. There is nothing 
 like hesitation in his manner, although he does pause 
 for a moment or two. and looks around him before he be- 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 243 
 
 gins to speak. Why he does so I do not know ; perhaps 
 it is only his usual manner ; perhaps, however, it may 
 be done for effect. He holds in his hand a small piece 
 of paper, on which some notes are written ; but once 
 having begun to speak, he is in no want of ideas : 
 thoughts, and words to express them, come crowding on ; 
 and the short-hand writers yonder will have enough to 
 do to follow him. His utterance is rapid ; and now and 
 then having said something terse and to the point, he 
 comes to a dead stop. He has pronounced words that 
 strike you, and he knows they do so ; he knew they 
 would before he uttered them, and he is giving you time 
 to let you feel their effect, and, if you like, to applaud. 
 His countenance does not grow animated by speaking; 
 his brow is knit the same as before ; and there is still 
 something dark about the eyes, and the upper part of the 
 face as he looks straight before him. Action, that diffi 
 cult part of the orator s art, he has yet to learn. He 
 moves his right hand up and down at regular intervals, 
 and then again it takes hold of the tribune in company 
 with the left. There is something very commonplace in 
 this monotony of action, corresponding as it does in no 
 way whatever with the matter of his discourse. But 
 
244 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 how well-turned are his phrases, how elegant his diction ! 
 It is true he often says something that would not mean 
 much if translated into English ; although as he puts it 
 in the elegant language of France, it does arrest your at 
 tention. His sentences are mostly short ; and it is in these 
 short ones that there is most point. He utters them abrupt 
 ly, and at the same time with much decision ; as if those 
 words were to settle the question at once. La science de- 
 truit la politique, he will tell you ; or, II y a une nouvelle 
 politique dans le monde c est la science. This is not 
 said as a theory, hut uttered as a law. It is pronounced 
 like a commandment, and as such you are to receive it. 
 To the applause which greets him he seems accustomed, 
 and waits quietly each time till the noise has subsided 
 before he again begins to speak. He intends that each 
 word shall be heard, and till all is quiet that cannot be. 
 A phrase of usual length, followed by one of but five or 
 six words, spoken quickly, but with the firmest intona 
 tion, and the discourse is at an end. He quits the tribune 
 as quickly as he entered it, and taking his seat, is again 
 an imperturbable spectator as before. 
 
 What a thunder of applause now resounds through the 
 building as yonder speaker is about to ascend the tribune ! 
 
EUKOPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 245 
 
 That is Cobden. There is nothing in his person that 
 could lead you to believe he would battle still when reso 
 lution appeared to be in vain ; nothing that might incline 
 you to notice him in a crowd of men. But let him speak, 
 and you at once acknowledge the man to be a power 
 a power that dictates, and must be treated with like a 
 neighboring state. He is below the middle height, and 
 of spare habit ; one of those men, in short, who Sallust 
 tells us are to be feared in a state. Every syllable he 
 utters is as distinct as the organs of speech can make it. 
 He speaks rather slowly at first, and at times somewhat 
 hesitatingly ; but this is not because he does not know what 
 to say, but because he is thinking how he shall express 
 his meaning with the very utmost amount of power. He 
 does not seek fine words, but strong ones. And strength 
 there is in what he says, and in his manner of saying it. 
 His sentences are short, like the Roman sword ; but they 
 are forged for close warfare and a hard struggle. He 
 leans forward as he speaks ; and with his right arm, as 
 he dashes it downwards, seems to beat his arguments 
 into his hearers minds. Right or wrong, his whole 
 heart is in the cause. Of that there can be no doubt. 
 He speaks from conviction ; and with an earnestness and 
 
246 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 intensity such as one rarely hears. There is nothing ele 
 gant in his language ; it is clothed with no ornament, 
 but, like the naked limbs of the gladiator, it trusts en 
 tirely to its unaided strength. All he proposes is intelli 
 gible ; all his reasoning is plain and clear. He knows 
 nothing of theory, but deals solely with facts. He hurls 
 into the arena before you at your very feet, as it were 
 some fact, some massive fact ; and he tells you to get 
 rid of it to move it thence if you can. That is his mode 
 of arguing. There is such energy in his manner, such 
 life and energy in his words, that you now understand 
 the power of the Corn-Law League. 
 
 Such speaking is new here. It takes every one by 
 surprise ; but after a while you hear from time to time 
 exclamations in various languages, all expressive of won 
 derment at the boldness of his thoughts, and the manner 
 in which they are imparted to you. But he cares only 
 for convincing his andience, and cares not for its ap 
 plause. He is full of his plan, and does not like delay ; 
 hence he is impatient of the bravos and the shouts ; and 
 he can hardly wait till the storm of approbation has sub 
 sided. But as he retires to his place, it does not die away 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 247 
 
 so soon, and all give expression to their feelings in one 
 long round of applause. 
 
 As in the plays of the French dramatists there is more 
 attention to the rules of art than in our own, so is it in 
 the speeches we have heard to-day. In style and in ar 
 rangement the French were certainly the best : they 
 were the most finished of all. Victor Hugo was to have 
 been there, and it would have been interesting to hear 
 the author of a la Colonne speak on the benefits of uni 
 versal peace. But as he stated in his letter, ( his physi 
 cians had condemned him to repose an expression, by 
 the by, which it would never have entered the head of 
 an Englishman or a German to make use of. Cobden s 
 words fell from his lips with all the force of a sledge 
 hammer. There was truly nothing in his oratory, but all 
 he said had weight and substance, or rather had weight 
 because it was composed of real tangible stuff. 
 
 The Peace Congress afforded much matter for thought, 
 independently of the especial object for which it was held : 
 one could here study to advantage the distinctive fea 
 tures of the different nationalities." 
 
 Besides the above, I give a leader in the Times news 
 paper in London, in reference to the Peace Congress. 
 
248 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 which is characteristic of that paper to run down any 
 such scheme. 
 
 " Mr. Cobden has been starring in the Provinces du 
 ring the week. It cannot be denied that, as far as num 
 bers are concerned, he has drawn a numerous audience at 
 Frankfort. The portion of his performance which appears 
 to have given the most unlimited satisfaction, was the 
 chaste and humorous manner in which he indoctrinated 
 the motley assembly in the Paul s kirche in the mystery 
 of a true British cheer. Henceforth it may be expected 
 that the guttural sounds in which the chamois hunter of 
 the Alps, and the green-coated rifleman of the Tyrolese 
 mountains, are wont to give utterance to the pent-up 
 emotions of their minds will give place to the measured 
 hip, hip/ hurrah ! of the Guild-Hall or Free-mason 
 Tavern. 
 
 The remainder of Mr. Cobden s performance does not 
 seem to have met with the same success, as his final 
 point, nor is such consummation to be wondered at. A 
 formidable rival sprung up in the person of an Ojibway 
 Chief who for the best portion of an hour indulged the 
 audience with a rhapsody upon the impropriety of dig- 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 249 
 
 ging up the war hatchet and taking a scalp from a 
 fallen foe. 
 
 La Longue Calebine was the Jeany Lind of the Paul s 
 kirche. He evidently got the better of Mr. Cobden, who 
 to regain his ascendency could find nothing more to the 
 purpose than to give the audience a sample of an English 
 after-dinner cheer. 
 
 The people who had been collected together in the 
 Paul s kirche were evidently delighted with the diversion 
 after the weariness of the orators, and set about cheering 
 with all the powers of their united lungs. To be sure 
 there were no very subtle arguments to be deduced from 
 their hurrahs, but they were, at any rate, as conclusive as 
 the speeches. 
 
 Any serious comment upon the proceedings of the 
 Peace meeting is entirely out of the question. One of 
 the speakers Mr. Hindley, of Oldham, had the naivete 
 to relate to the audience a short conversation between 
 himself and Lord Brougham. The point of the anecdote 
 was that Lord Brougham had once told M. Hindley that 
 the ministers of the Peace Congress were the greatest 
 fools. Whatever our opinion may be, we might have 
 hesitated before expressing it quite so tersely as the noble 
 
250 EUKOPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 and learned Lord. But since the word has been said, 
 we will only add that a great many people are of Lord 
 Brougham s way of Blinking upon this point. As to the 
 horrors of warfare there can be no question. "We have 
 as profound a detestation of all armaments, military or 
 naval, as the Ojibway Chief himself. We would hail with 
 rapture the day when the last bayonet to be found in 
 Europe was turned into a corkscrew or a carving-knife. 
 But what avail our empty wishes ? Is it right or honest to 
 foster the delusion that any serious any appreciable in 
 fluence over the course of events can be exercised by the 
 delivery of a tissue of inane platitudes upon the advan 
 tages of peace and the calamities of war ? It would be 
 just as much to the purpose if a Congress should be held 
 to-morrow to point out the beauties of truth, and the 
 ugliness of lying. We do not see why each of the ten 
 commandments should not in time furnish pretext for a 
 meeting of nations in Frankfort or elsewhere. Charity, 
 patience, humanity, honesty, sincerity, purity of word and 
 deed, are all excellent topics for very excellent essays or 
 orations. The human race requires to be set right upon 
 each of these points to the full as much as upon the hor 
 rors of war. Nay, the series of ethical agitations we 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 251 
 
 propose would be much more to the purpose, than what 
 is called a Peace Congress. Mr. Cobden and the Ojib- 
 way are turning up a shallow furrow indeed. Could 
 nations and individuals be persuaded to act with justice, 
 and forbearance, and humanity, could they be taught 
 not to covet their neighbor s goods, and to do to others 
 as they would themselves be done by, the armies of 
 Europe might at once be put on the half-pay list. War 
 is but the expression of evil passions certainly on the 
 side of one probably on the part of both of the belli 
 gerent powers. But it would seem from the records 
 of history that civilization is a plant of slow growth. 
 Time is the great element in all human improvement. 
 Men cannot be made just and merciful by a batch of 
 speeches and in two or three hours time. 
 
 When the present generation has passed away, and 
 another and another, it may happen that the transcen 
 dental dreams of universal fraternity may be realized ; 
 but, as yet, we grieve to say it, we see little prospect for 
 so desirable an object. 
 
 There is one point connected with the Congress which 
 cannot but very forcibly arrest the attention. When we 
 read over the resolutions proposed to the assembly we find 
 
252 EUEOPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 them to consist as usual of recommendations of National 
 disarmament, of disapprobation of foreign loans nego 
 tiated for the purpose of furnishing one people the means 
 of slaughtering another, and so forth. Now, when these 
 gentlemen find practically, that the governments of Eu 
 rope cannot or will not disarm the troops at their com 
 mand when they see that, for all their talk, the Emper 
 or of Russia need but propose a loan, and the subscription 
 list is filled up in the course of a morning in the city 
 of what avail is it to persist in such visionary schemes ? 
 Whatever may be the case in days to come, the present 
 Mr. Cobden and his Indian friend are before their age." 
 
 This is a fair specimen of English raillery which has 
 been heard by us and read, as we have now travelled 
 over a country which is now groaning in spite of its gi 
 gantic wealth. 
 
 It will be tolerated in other nations to say much 
 against the Peace movement in this or any other country 
 where less disaster has attended the passions of war but 
 an Englishman whose very country is now groaning of a 
 debt created by the past folly of its Heads, is the last one 
 who could be expected to say so much against the present 
 benevolent movement of the cause of Peace. 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 253 
 
 The devastating effects of the national debt is felt in 
 the splendid palaces of the rich, and reek in the gutters 
 of the miserable. But, to be consistent I have heard 
 the Englishmen even say that the national debt was ben 
 eficial to the people ! and to the country with its gov 
 ernment. If this is beneficial then the slavery entailed 
 on the American continent by the British government in 
 its early days must of course be a benefit to the people of 
 this country. One is just as detestable as the other, and 
 the present enlightened age will not tolerate such evils. 
 
CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 VISIT TO HEIDELBERG. 
 
 SATURDAY morning, and a pleasant morning it is too. 
 Our Congress is over, but the people are as busy as ever 
 The Prince Frederick desired I should see him this morn 
 ing at 7 o clock, masonically. I saw him last evening just 
 as he was leaving his room. 
 
 He is a fine-looking man, and as stately in his bearing 
 as General Scott, of the United States. Indeed, I never 
 saw a man more commanding in his appearance. This 
 morning my friend Dr. J. W. Carove, desires me to visit 
 the Heidelberg University, of which he is one of the 
 Professors. After that, at 9 o clock, I must bid farewell 
 to the city of Frankfort. 
 
 As I was passing through the Parade Grounds the 
 Prince was having a review of the soldiers. Ten thou 
 sand soldiers in arms ! the sight was an imposing one. 
 Their burnished weapons and splendid equipage glittered 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 255 
 
 before the sun, and the tall plume of the Prince, who was 
 conspicuous on the field, waved before us as we passed. 
 These soldiers make a brilliant and formidable appear 
 ance, but such things are altogether repugnant to my 
 feelings since my warrior s creed has been changed to a 
 harmless one. 
 
 My visit to the University was pleasant. I ascended 
 the Tower which is situated on a hill about three miles 
 high, and had a panoramic view of the vast country 
 which surrounds it. Far off in the westward are visible 
 the peaks of the hills of France. A mountain range, 
 looking as if its top was lost in the clouds, makes its ap 
 pearance. The mountain on which I stood extended its 
 rugged hill-tops northward, as far as the eye could reach. 
 Far off in an Easterly direction the villages of the Ger 
 man nation lay slumbering in peace and silence. There 
 again rolls the tide of the beautiful Rhine. The fiery 
 beams of the sun glisten on its surface, and the whole 
 water appears as if it were a river of fire. Onward it 
 rolls its winding course, its crystal waters enclosed in a 
 locket of green. Here is also the Neckar, coming into 
 sight as if it were just emerging from under the hill, and 
 like a classic river of modern times it passes by this tern- 
 
256 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 pie of learning. On the other side of the Neckar the 
 farms appear in dots, and the whole valley is loaded 
 with grain and vegetation. The hardy race of women 
 are in the fields performing the duties of husbandmen, 
 while their husbands, sons, and brothers are stationed at 
 the frontier towns of the north, ready for war. These 
 German women are short and portly and have ruddy 
 complexions. With their sun-burnt faces they may com 
 pare to advantage, so far as redness is concerned, with 
 any of our squaws in America ; and like them they are 
 serviceable at home and in the field. But of course 
 there are ladies for the parlor in Germany as well as in 
 every other civilized country. To grace saloons and 
 drawing-rooms, women must be converted into butter 
 flies, joined in the middle by a thread, ornamented with 
 a great variety of hues, formed to flutter and fly about, 
 and to live on sickening sweets, such as their counterparts, 
 the flowers of the boudoir, may offer. There is more 
 heart in a German peasant woman, and more soul in a 
 simple-minded squaw, than in a thousand toys that are 
 formed only for ornaments and playthings. Doubtless 
 either extreme is to be deprecated, and the noble 
 gentlewoman is a medium between the two, free from 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 257 
 
 coarseness on the one hand and from frailty on the 
 other. 
 
 The spires in the south-west are the steeples of Straus- 
 burg. I cannot stay here, for the time approaches 
 when I must leave the town. I think of it with reluct 
 ance, and I shall be still more reluctant to part with 
 these things which minister so greatly to my enjoyment. 
 Where I stand it blows a gale, yet I would gladly stay 
 here till sunset, and take a view of the surrounding 
 scenery, the hills bathed in the glory of the setting sun, 
 and the rich landscape softened by the shadows of the 
 mountains. The whole valley is dotted with villages 
 surrounded with vineyards and gardens that look as if 
 they had been made for the lovers of the picturesque as 
 much as for subsistence and comfort. Here and there 
 the smoke rising from groups of dwellings, awaken a 
 thousand associations of domestic peace and social har 
 mony within, and, to one of great imagination, associa 
 tions of fairy habitations, among the clouds. There is a 
 rail car corning up the valley ! Its trail of smoke ex 
 tending in a right line, and appearing motionless, while 
 the car shoots over the ground like an arrow, produces a 
 singular impression. The spinning of a fleece of black 
 
258 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 wool, is a homely comparison, but there might be a 
 worse one. 
 
 The company who have managed to get up here are 
 well pleased with the sight, and in accordance with cus 
 tom I have recorded my name, nation, place of resi 
 dence, &c. I must now descend and find my way to the 
 University, to see the library, museum, and other objects 
 of interest. But first of all I shall take a look at the 
 old castld, which is the noblest ruin I ever beheld. I 
 cannot do better than give the reader a description of it 
 by one who knows something of its history. 
 
 " The Castle, anciently the residence of the Electors 
 Palatine, presenting the combined character of a palace 
 and a fortress, is an imposing ruin. The building dis 
 plays the work of various hands, the taste of different 
 founders, and the styles of successive centuries : it is 
 highly interesting for its varied fortunes, its picturesque 
 situation, its vastness, and the relics of architectural mag 
 nificence which it still displays, after having been three 
 times burnt, and having ten times experienced the hor 
 rors of war. Its final ruin, however, did not arise from 
 those causes ; but after the greater part of the building 
 had been restored to its former splendor in 1718-20, it 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 259 
 
 was set on fire by lightning in 1764 : and since the total 
 conflagration which ensued, it has never been rebuilt or 
 tenanted. It is at present only u collection of red^stone 
 wall, and has remained roofless for nearly a century. It 
 is approached by a carriage-road from behind, and by a 
 winding foot-path on the side of the Neckar. The oldest 
 part remaining is probably that built by the Electors 
 Rudolph and Rupert. It has all the character of a 
 stronghold of the middle ages, and the teeth of the port 
 cullis still project from beneath the archway leading to 
 it. The Friedrichsbau, named from the Elector, who 
 built it in 1607, is distinguished by excessive richness of 
 decoration : its facade to the south is ornamented with 
 statues of ancestors of the electoral family from Char 
 lemagne. The part of the building most deserving of 
 admiration, for the good taste of its design, and the ele 
 gance of its decorations, is that which overlooks the 
 river, and extends along the east side of the quadrangle 
 built by Otto Henry (1556), in the style called cinque 
 cento, which is allied to the Elizabethan of England. 
 The statues of heroes from sacred and profane history, 
 which decorate the front, though of (keuper) sand 
 stone, are by no means contemptible as works of art. 
 
260 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 The English traveller will view with some interest 
 that part of the castle called the English Palace, 
 from its having been built for the reception of the Prin 
 cess Elizabeth Stuart, daughter of James I., and grand 
 daughter of Mary Glueen of Scots. The triumphal arch, 
 having pillars entwined with ivy leaves, was erected 
 by her husband, the Elector Frederick V., afterwards 
 King of Bohemia, to celebrate their nuptials ; it led to 
 the flower-garden which he caused to be laid out for her 
 pleasure, and it still goes by the name of Elizabethan P forte. 
 
 " When her husband hesitated to accept the crown of 
 Bohemia, this high-hearted wife exclaimed, Let me 
 rather eat dry bread at a king s table than feast at the 
 board of an elector : and it seemed as if some avenging 
 demon hovered in the air, to take her literally at her 
 word ; for she and her family lived to eat dry bread ay, 
 and to beg it before they ate it ; but she would be a 
 queen." MRS. JAMESON. The granite pillars supporting 
 the canopy of the well in the corner of the court of 
 the castle are said by some to have been brought from 
 Charlemagne s palace at Ingelheim, though they are 
 undoubtedly derived from the quarry in the Oden- 
 wald. 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 261 
 
 In a cellar under the castle is the famous Heidel 
 berg Tun ; it is the largest wine cask in the world, 
 being capable of holding 800 hogsheads, or 283,200 bot 
 tles, which is far less, after all, than the dimensions of 
 the porter vat of a London brewer. In former days, 
 when the Tun was filled with the produce of the 
 vintage, it was usual to dance on the platform on the 
 top. It has, however, remained empty since 1769, more 
 than half a century. 
 
 One of the towers which formed the outer defences 
 of the Castle (der Gesprengte Thurm) was under 
 mined and blown up by the French ; but so thick were 
 the walls, and so strongly built, that though nearly the 
 whole of one side was detached by the explosion, instead 
 of crumbling to pieces, it merely slid down from its place, 
 in one solid mass, into the ditch, where it still remains. 
 Subterranean passages, for the most part still preserved 
 and accessible, extend under the ramparts. 
 
 The Gardens and Shrubberies round the castle, and 
 the adjoining Terrace, to the eastward, afford the most 
 agreeable walks and splendid points of view it is possible 
 to conceive over the Neckar, issuing out of its vine-clad 
 valley, and winding through a plain of the utmost fertil- 
 
262 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 ity to join the Rhine, which appears here and there in 
 distant flashes glittering in the sun. Spires and towerB 
 proclaim the existence of cities and villages almost with 
 out riumher, and the landscape is bounded by the outline 
 of the Vosges mountains. 
 
 The best general view of the building may be obtain 
 ed from the extremity of the terrace raised upon arches, 
 and projecting over the Neckar. The castle, however, is 
 so grand an object, and the surrounding country so ex 
 ceedingly beautiful, that the stranger will hardly be 
 satisfied with seeing it from one point. Ho should mount 
 the heights on the right bank of the Neckar, either by a 
 path leading from the end of the bridge, which is steep, 
 or by a more gradual ascent from Neueriheim. An 
 agreeable path, easily accessible, called the Philosopher s 
 Walk, conducts along the slope of the hill fronting the 
 town. The hill behind it, which stands in the angel be 
 tween the valley of the Rhine and Neckar, called the 
 Heiligeberg, presents a more extensive prospect. On the 
 top are ruins of a castle and church of St. Michael, 
 which succeeded to a Roman fort built on the spot. In 
 lljyi, the sect called Flaggellarits made a pilgrimage to 
 this holy mountain, clad in black, and wearing a white 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 263 
 
 cross in front and behind. In the thirty years war, Tilly 
 opened his trenches to bombard the town from this 
 point. 
 
 About 50 yards above the bridge, on the right bank, 
 in a solitary inn called Hirschgasse, the students duels 
 are fought. Four or five sometimes take place in a day ; 
 and it is no uncommon thing for a student to have been 
 engaged in 25 or 30, as principal, in the course of four or 
 five years. 
 
 The Konigstsuhl, the highest hill in this district, lies 
 behind the town and castle. The summit may be reach 
 ed in 1, or 1 hour s walk, and. the view is the most 
 extensive in the neighborhood. A lofty tower has been 
 erected for the convenience of visitors, who often repair 
 hither to see the sun rise, and if possible to extend the 
 limits of the panorama, which includes the valleys of the 
 Rhine and Neckar, the Odenwald, Haardt Mountains on 
 the W., the Taunus on the N. W., the ridge of the Black 
 Forest on the S., with the castle of Ebersteinburg, near 
 Baden, and the spire of Strasburg Minster, 90 miles off. 
 Tilly bombarded the town from this hill, after his attack 
 from the right bank, and failed : remains of his trenches 
 are still visible. 
 
264 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 There is a small tavern near the top, called Kohlhof, 
 where persons anxious to see the sun rise sometimes pass 
 the night previously. 
 
 The banl^s of the Neckar above Heidelberg are very 
 interesting, and afford many pleasant excursions one of 
 the most agreeable being to Neckargemund (Inn, Pfalz ; 
 good), six miles off. 
 
 A road, overlooking the Neckar, runs from the castle, 
 along the shoulder of the hill to the Wolf s Brunnen, an 
 agreeable walk of two miles. It is a pretty retired nook, 
 named from a spring which rises there. There is a small 
 inn close to it, famed for its trout." 
 
 Here I saw a ceremony of embracing, which I never 
 saw before in any country. Dr. Pennington, an Ameri 
 can delegate for the colored race, having once been made 
 a D.D., and received a diploma from the Professors of this 
 Institution, met for the first time some of the Professors ; 
 and a Dr., one of the Professors, having been informed 
 that Mr. Pennington was among the strangers who had 
 come to visit the University, immediately sought for him, 
 and they met in the old dilapidated chapel inside of the old 
 castle. They made addresses for the crowd first, and 
 then they embraced one another before the audience, 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 265 
 
 and kissed each other. While I was looking for some 
 corner in which I might indulge my pardonable smile, I 
 stumbled over an old dried up monk with his hands out 
 stretched towards me for alms. It was, however, only 
 an image clothed in rags. 
 
 The library is a wonderful collection of books and 
 MSS., both ancient and modern. Here we saw Luther s 
 MS., a "Dissertation on the Prophecies of Isaiah," and 
 his " Exhortation to Prayer against the Turks," and 
 other mementos of him in different forms. 
 
 The time is now over, and I am required to return to 
 Frankfort, just in time for the cars ! On my left is seated 
 my warm-hearted friend, Dr. J. W. Crovae. Weary, 
 and my eyes filled with dust, I fell asleep. Dreamed of 
 home 0, how provoking ! 
 
 When we took leave of Frankfort this morning, we 
 left a German with a pipe in his mouth, standing near 
 the station, pointing the passengers to another part of the 
 building. This afternoon he is here still, standing in 
 the same place, and smoking the same identical pipe, 
 though it is probable that a number of pipes full of 
 tobacco have passed into smoke since morning. In most 
 
 cases useless and noxious things, however much they 
 12 
 
266 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 may be favorites of the public, end in smoke. This is a 
 fair specimen of the smoking propensity of the Germans. 
 
 August 21th. I have visited a place of resort near 
 Weisbaden, the prettiest I have seen. It is a gambling 
 place, authorized by the government ; and all ranks (it 
 would not be proper to say classes), of the people go there 
 ladies as well as gentlemen. I stood in the hall a few 
 minutes ago, and saw a file of men and women, 15 or 
 20 in number, standing with their florins in hand and 
 throwing them into a pile, when a single toss would tell 
 the story whether they gained or lost. One man had 25 
 florins in his hand, and threw one at a time until he 
 had but two left, and those two won him back what he 
 had thrown upon the table and seven florins besides. The 
 players sat opposite each other, with faces as hard as 
 marble, and hearts still harder, no doubt. 
 
 But the gardens, walks, lakes, fountains, are all beau 
 tiful. This city is the prettiest I have seen in this coun 
 try, without any exception. 
 
 The 28th, I leave for Dusseldorf to visit the German 
 poet, Mr. Freiligrath. 
 
 At 9 o clock, I am on the Rhine, gliding along in a 
 swift steamer. 0, how delightful ! The hill-tops turning 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 267 
 
 about as we pass them by, as if to present themselves to 
 us in every position, that we may take a view of them 
 on all sides. The passengers are all on deck, gazing as 
 if it were the first time. There are, however, a few ex 
 ceptions. For the thousandth time you exclaim, " What 
 a difference there is in people !" There is a man from 
 
 who seems not to know that there is anything to 
 
 admire in the scenery around him. In his hands is a 
 novel, and his soul, if he has one, is wrapped up in that. 
 It is not merely every creature that has four legs that is 
 an animal. If any of my own acquaintance were to fix 
 their eyes on a book when passing over such a beautiful 
 country as this, I would jerk their heads up at the risk 
 of offending them, and tell them to see the glorious attire 
 with which nature adorns herself. 
 
 I enjoyed the trip coming down much better than that 
 going up, for there were not so many passengers on 
 board. 
 
 My friend Mr. Close accompanied me to Dusseldorf, 
 where I find the famous poet, who, on account of his re 
 publican feelings and predilections is not allowed to pub 
 lish his poems without inspection by the government. 
 For the violation of this rule he has seen the inside of a 
 
268 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 prison of such a tolerant character is the government 
 of Prussia ! 
 
 Him and his Turkish lady I find very affable and kind. 
 Both are handsome, and their minds are as good as, yea 
 better, than their looks. A lovely little pappoose, a pic 
 ture of innocence, lies nestling in a cradle. Bud of 
 promise, unfolding thy tender leaves to the scorching 
 heats, the biting frosts, and the merciless storms of this 
 world, take this kiss from a red man of the American 
 wilderness. Thou hast a softer bed, and more tender 
 hands to rear thee, in this garden of the Old World, than 
 the wild flower that buds and blossoms in the forests of 
 the New. For thy own and thy parents sake, God bless 
 thee, sweet babe ! 
 
 My time being limited, I leave for Cologne, where I 
 expect to spend the evening with men of science. 
 
 About half a dozen of us spend the evening together, 
 and endeavor to amuse each other. Students from 
 Bonn arrived about 12 o clock. My friends have been 
 trying very hard to make me drink. Though this is a very 
 strange way of showing their friendship, they are never 
 theless friends such inconsistencies do the customs of 
 society subject us to ! 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 269 
 
 To their cordial solicitations I said "no," but finding 
 they " would not take no for an answer," I left the com 
 pany rather unceremoniously, about 2 o clock in the 
 morning. At an early hour I found they had been hunt 
 ing for me through the crooked and coffin-like streets of 
 Cologne until 4 o clock, or daylight. They thought, I 
 suppose, that an Indian could not find his way home. 
 
 For a literary and scientific people these Germans are 
 a strange set. Their recreations are in proportion to 
 their soundness and laboriousness as scholars. Among 
 other things which they learn they will find that when 
 I say yes I mean yes, and when I say no I mean no 
 according to the scripture injunction, " Let your yea be 
 yea and your nay nay." 
 
 While speaking of this celebrated poet I here give a 
 short notice of him, and a piece of exquisite poetry, from 
 his pen : 
 
 " One of the most gifted of modern German poets is 
 Freiligrath, the author of the exquisite poem we copy 
 below. His early education was a commercial one, 
 having served his time as a clerk in a wealthy banking 
 house of Holland. He secretly cultivated poetry, while 
 immersed in business occupations ; and, unknown to his 
 
270 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 friends, began to contribute to a German periodical the 
 first fledgelings of his genius. Among his earliest pro 
 ductions was the poem subjoined, which immediately at 
 tracted great attention, and won golden opinions for the 
 author. Freiligrath soon left his commercial pursuits, 
 which w r ere always distasteful to him, and took to litera 
 ture for his profession. Among those who first discov 
 ered and appreciated his genius was the King of Prussia, 
 who, finding upon inquiry that he was dependent upon 
 his pen for a support, offered him a yearly salary, which 
 would place him above want. Freiligrath availed him 
 self of this salary, however, but a year or two. At heart 
 a liberal, he could not honestly accept the patronage of 
 a monarch whose policy he could never approve, and, 
 throwing up this salary, he fearlessly joined the liberal 
 party, and published the celebrated volume of political 
 poems called Glaubensbekentrisse, which were no 
 sooner issued than they were confiscated, and he was 
 obliged to fly the land. He went to England, arid there 
 engaged as a corresponding clerk in a commercial house, 
 until the revolution in Germany broke out. He then re 
 turned to Dusseldorf, where he was for a long time im 
 prisoned, under pretence of causing a demonstration 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 271 
 
 against the King of Prussia. He was soon liberated, 
 however, and has since, we believe, returned to England. 
 Freiligrath married a very beautiful and accomplished 
 Greek lady, and is the father of two or three lovely chil 
 dren. We understand that he is intending a visit to 
 America, to locate himself if possible here, as a Professor 
 in some one of our universities. Americans should take 
 him cordially by the hand, and we are sure that a pro 
 fessional chair could by no one be better, or more worth 
 ily filled. 
 
 On the soft cushions of a couch of down 
 
 Slumbers the maid, imprisoned in repose ; 
 Close droop her eyelashes, profuse and brown ; 
 
 Her cheek is tinted like a full-blown rose. 
 
 Hard by there shimmers in the smothered light 
 
 A vase of choicest ornament and mould ; 
 And in the vase are fresh-cut flowers, and bright, 
 
 Fragrant to smell, and various to behold. 
 
 Damp are the heats that, broodingly and dull, 
 Flow and flow on throughout the chamber small ; 
 
 Summer has scared away the tender cool, 
 Yet fastened stand the casements one and all. 
 
 Stillness around, and deepest silence lowers ; 
 
 Suddenly, hark ! a whisper as of CHANGE ; 
 Heard in the tender stems, heard in the flowers, 
 
 It lisps and nestles eagerly and strange. 
 
272 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 Swing from the cups that tremble on those stems 
 
 The little spirits, the embodied scents, 
 Some bearing shields, some topped with diadems, 
 
 Delicate mists their robe and ornaments. 
 
 From the flushed bosom of the queenly Rose 
 
 Arises gracefully a slender Lady, 
 Pearls glisten in her hair, that freely flows 
 
 As dew-drops glisten where the copse is shady. 
 
 Forth from the visor of the " Helmet plant" 
 
 A keen-faced Knight steps mid the dark-green leaves, 
 
 His presence breathing high chivalric vaunt , 
 
 Complete in steel he shines from crest to greaves ; 
 
 Over his morion, nodding waywardly, 
 
 Hangs heron plumage, gray, and silver pale, 
 
 Leaving the " Lily," with sick, languid eye, 
 A wood-nymph, thin as gossamer her veil. 
 
 Out of the " Turk-cap" comes a swarthy Moor, 
 Wearing his flaunting robes with scornful show ; 
 
 On his green turban glitters, fixed before, 
 The golden radiance of the crescent bow. 
 
 Forth from the " Crown Imperial," bold and tall, 
 Sceptre in hand, appears an ermined King ; 
 
 From the blue " Iris," girt with falchions all, 
 His hunters troop, green-vested like the spring. 
 
 Sullenly swirling down from the " Narciss," 
 A youthful form, with silent sorrow laden, 
 
 Steps to the bed, to print his fevered kiss 
 Upon the red lips of the sleeping maiden. 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 273 
 
 The other spirits, crowding, press and swing 
 
 All round the couch in many circles gay ; 
 They swing and press themselves, and softly sing 
 
 Over the sleeper their mysterious lay : 
 
 " Maiden, cruel maiden ! thou hast torn 
 
 Up from the earth our every slender tie, 
 And, in this gaudy-colored shard forlorn, 
 
 Left us to weaken, wither, fade, and die. 
 
 " Alas ! how happy once was our repose 
 
 On the maternal bosom of the earth, 
 Where through the tall tree-tops that o er us rose, 
 
 The sun made vistas to behold our mirth ! 
 
 " The balmy spring, with many a gentle breeze, 
 Cooled our weak stems that to its bidding bent 
 
 At eve descending under the still trees 
 How blissful was our faery merriment ! 
 
 " Clear on us then fell heaven s own dew and rain ; 
 
 Foul water now surrounds us stagnantly 
 We fade, and we shall die but not in vain, 
 
 If, ere we pass, our vengeance lights on thee." 
 
 The spirits song is hushed, their errand told ; 
 
 Bending, around the sleeper s couch they go; 
 And, with the brooding silences of old, 
 
 Returns again the whispering soft and low. 
 
 Hark ! how the rustling rises round the wreath ! 
 
 How glow her cheeks, instinctive of their doom ! 
 See how upon her all the spirits breathe 
 
 How the scents undulate throughout the room ! 
 12* 
 
274 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 The slanted sparkles of the western day 
 
 Smiting the room, each spirit vanisheth ; 
 Upon the cushions of the couch she lay ; 
 
 As beautiful and, ah ! as cold as death. 
 
 One faded blossom, lying all alone, 
 
 Lends to her cheek a tender tint of red, 
 With her wan sisters sleeps that hapless one 
 
 Oh ! fatal breath of flowers ! the maid is dead, H. G. K. 
 
 They had agreed to meet and accompany me to the 
 station for Calais, at 6 o clock, but only one was present 
 to bid me farewell. I am now again on my way to Ca 
 lais, and London. 
 
 Travelled all day and all night the road dusty, and 
 our company quite jaded a poorer-looking set I never 
 saw passed over Dover, Brighton, and Conlay I am 
 in London again 
 
CHAPTER XX. 
 
 LONDON AGAIN. 
 
 I HAVE just got inside of Babylon again. The noise 
 and confusion which reign over this great city, would 
 make stronger heads than mine to turn and ache. 
 " Buses" long and narrow, low and humiliating, and 
 affectionately close. There are but the lower classes who 
 has monopolized these in this country, and very seldom 
 any of the higher classes are even seen in them. There 
 are a great many thousand of these conveniences which 
 run from the Exchange, London Bridge, and the great 
 thoroughfares of the city. There are in general twenty- 
 one for a load. Thirteen inside and eight outside, and 
 sometimes more than enough. 
 
 The peculiar feature in the appearance of the stores 
 in the oldest part of London is the narrowness of its 
 stores, which is generally the case in the famous street 
 Cheapside. But in the west end, the resort of the up- 
 
276 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 per-ten-dom, the stores are more of a modern size and 
 appearance. Particularly so in Regent street. There 
 are stores there which in point of richness surpass any 
 thing I have ever seen. The stores in New York are 
 some as neat-looking as any I have seen. Nothing of all 
 that I have seen surpasses in point of size, convenience, 
 elegance of taste, as that one in New York lately built 
 by " Bowen & McNamee," their extensive silk store, 
 and that of Stewart s. 
 
 The streets are generally narrow in the old part of the 
 city. Long, crooked, high and dark, disrnal, smutty- 
 looking after a gas-light is very soon after that necessary 
 to travel with. Or if no gas-light, a man must accus 
 tom himself to walking by faith, or feeling. 
 
 I have to officiate in the Rev. Mr. Luke s Chapel Sun 
 day twice. As he is still on the continent. A delightful 
 audience. An attentive one. And I should judge an 
 intelligent one also. 
 
 The people here call their meeting-houses of all Dissen 
 ters, Chapels, and the Established Churches are only to 
 be called a Church or Churches. 
 
 The Chapels arid Churches that I have been in, in 
 this city, are very old fashioned. No cushioned seats, high 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 277 
 
 backs, and one sitting in them can sleep very easy, and 
 not a sight of anything except your head. 
 
 The pulpits are more like a barrel, and when shown in 
 one of these I always did feel as though I was in a barrel 
 hooped-up and was speaking through a bunghole, stand 
 ing in one position, there is therefore no animation. 
 Not much elbow-room, neither for the feet. Cramped on 
 all sides, one cannot but wish for room. I know it is 
 not necessary with some to have any room, and others 
 again that is the most effective part of their perform 
 ance. 
 
 Monday morning. I had a visit from a gentle- 
 man and lady who offer me a suite of rooms. And I am 
 glad that the Great Spirit has put this into their hearts, 
 as to do me this kindness. I have gladly availed myself 
 of seeing them early in this week. 
 
 Found cards in my room of people who have called. I 
 must go to this and to that one. I cannot go to all, my 
 time is limited, and however pleased I might be to see 
 them, some like myself must be disappointed. 
 
 To record the events of this week would be to com 
 mence another volume, when I have spent the most 
 agreeable part of my sojourn in England. 
 
278 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 Letters after letters. This morning I received at a 
 quarter before 9 o clock eighteen letters ! And two com 
 mittees have waited on me, for to go and deliver ad 
 dresses to their people, for objects of Benevolence. 
 
 I had expected a great deal might be done to do some 
 good to my own countrymen in the way of presenting the 
 object of their own educational interests, and for this rea 
 son I endeavored to seek the aid and countenance of the 
 so-called " Aboriginal Protection Society" and instead of 
 being any benefit I had to just leave off everything when 
 so many obstacles were thrown in my way. 
 
 I had made a false high estimation of this body. A 
 great name indeed without any power. A body without 
 a knowing aim, and less energy of purpose. 
 
 I see a Quaker friend from Philadelphia is also here in 
 the city, presenting his colonization scheme, in which 
 very few of the people seem to interest themselves. 
 
 In the visits that I made with a Rev. Gentleman in 
 the poor districts of this great city I find much misery 
 and wretchedness. 
 
 Another afternoon has been allotted to visiting the Rag 
 ged schools. Certainly it is not a poetical name. These 
 schools are poor-looking enough, but certainly they looked 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 279 
 
 a great deal better than names indicated. Delivered five 
 addresses to-day, and endeavored to please and gratify 
 the young English boys and girls. God bless them. 
 
 I have now delayed over two weeks in this city, and 
 having received an invitation to go to Scotland and from 
 Lord Brougham at his country-seat, I leave now for 
 Leeds. 
 
 The travel between here and that city is very good ; 
 and everything comfortable. 
 
 Here I stayed for a short time and delivered addresses to 
 the sabbath-school children in one of the churches. 
 Preached on Sabbath, lectured on week days, and visited 
 during the day the surrounding country. 
 
 This is a great manufacturing country. Cloth is here 
 made to perfection. I have just visited Mr. Rawson s 
 cloth factory, where I have seen the process of cloth- 
 making. 
 
 Here the railways meet from all directions diverging 
 over the whole surrounding country. 
 
 I used to read a great deal about Leeds. 
 
 To look over it from the highest hill near-by appears 
 as if it was one vast smoke house. Smoke, smoke, all 
 but smoke. 
 
280 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 The consul of the United States here is a fine hearted 
 gentleman. 
 
 In my visit to this place I found the historical notices 
 of this place as follows, which I hope will be of some use 
 to my readers in the way of information : 
 
 " Leeds, the largest and most flourishing town of York 
 shire, on the Aire, is the metropolis of the woollen manu 
 facture, and the fifth town in England in point of popu 
 lation and commercial activity. It is an ancient town, 
 and was probably a Roman station, but has been the 
 scene of no historical events. Its situation is highly ad 
 vantageous for manufacturing and commercial purposes. 
 The chief articles of manufacture here are superfine 
 cloths, kerseymeres, swansdowns, shalloons, carpets, blan 
 kets, &c. ; plate-glass, earthenware, and the spinning of 
 flax to a great extent. Its merchants also buy extensive 
 ly the woollen and stuff goods made in the neighboring 
 towns and villages, and get them finished and dyed ; so 
 that Leeds is a general mart for all these fabrics. The 
 Leeds cloth-halls form an interesting spectacle on the 
 market-days. Machine-making is a flourishing business 
 in Leeds. The Leeds and Liverpool Canal connects 
 Leeds with the Western sea, and by means of the river 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 281 
 
 Aire it has a communication with the Humber. By 
 means of railways, this town now enjoys every advantage 
 which can be given, by the most rapid communication 
 with all parts of Great Britain. Leeds has eight 
 churches, numerous dissenting chapels, a free grammar 
 school, a national school, a philosophical and literary socie 
 ty, a mechanics institute, a theatre, and various charita 
 ble institutions. Leeds was the native place of Dr. Hart 
 ley, author of Observations on Man ; Wilson, the 
 painter ; and Smeaton, the celebrated engineer. Dr. 
 Priestley, the distinguished philosopher, officiated for 
 several years as the minister of the Unitarian chapel 
 here. Leeds gives the title of Duke to the family of Os- 
 borne, which sprung from this town. Two M.P. Pop. 
 of town and liberty, 152,054. 
 
 About three miles from Leeds are the ruins of Kirkstall 
 Abbey, picturesquely situated in a vale watered by the 
 Aire. This abbey was founded in 1157 by Henry de 
 Lacy for monks of the Cistertian order." 
 
CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 FIRST VISIT TO SCOTLAND. 
 
 HAVING always had a great desire to visit the country 
 of the Scots, I must leave Leeds and travel northward 
 with my son and lady, and see the famed country so 
 much honored with the songs of the two best poets in 
 their day Robert Burns and Sir Walter Scott. 
 
 On our journey we go first to see the birthplace of my 
 companion in Knaresborough ; and after visiting Ripon at 
 the residence of Mr. William Hovell, the brother of my 
 father-in-law. The numerous curiosities here in Knares 
 borough are interesting. I visited the Dropping Well, 
 and wrote my notices a few steps where the water drips. 
 Thus is a romantic wilderness connected with all the 
 scenery of this stream of water which rolls along so si 
 lently here. Rock, bold, arid large trees overhanging 
 their branches are standing along the rugged banks and 
 here cool breezes assemble and run in ripples over the 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 283 
 
 smooth surface of the clear waters of this singular 
 spot. 
 
 How often did I use to hear in Canada from a portly 
 fair one of this place. The walks, yea, the moonlight 
 walks, as the silent waters rolled underneath in the deep 
 shade of yon valley. Step after step, then the waters 
 descend from the wood-hill, it emerges and then sunning 
 itself in clear noonday where the lamb and the herds 
 of the tame ones are sporting over the fields made green 
 by its waters. 
 
 The Town Hall is a wretched place. I deliver an ad 
 dress in the Hall, and find some warm hearts here for all 
 it does look rather forlorn just now. A railroad runs by 
 the town. 
 
 I give here the historical notices of the place : 
 
 " Knaresborough is delightfully situated on the banks 
 of the Nidd, which flows through a most romantic valley 
 below precipitous rocks. The church is a large old struc 
 ture, containing several monuments. Here are the re 
 mains of a castle which was erected soon after the con 
 quest. It belonged at one time to Piers Gaveston, the 
 favorite of Edward II. In the year 1331 it was granted 
 by Edward III. to his son, the celebrated John of Gaunt, 
 
284 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 and was afterwards one of the places in which Richard 
 II. was imprisoned. During the civil wars it sustained 
 a siege from the parliamentary forces under Lord Fair 
 fax, and at last surrendered upon honorable terms. It 
 was afterwards dismantled by order of the parliament. 
 Part of the principal tower is still remaining. In the 
 walk along the bank of the Nidd opposite the ruins of 
 the castle, is a celebrated petrifying or dropping well, 
 springing in a declivity at the foot of a limestone rock. 
 Near it is a curious excavation called St. Robert s Chap 
 el, hollowed out of the solid rock ; its roof is groined, and 
 the altar adorned with Gothic ornaments. About half a 
 mile lower down the river are the remains of a priory 
 founded by Richard Plantagenet. A mile to the east is 
 St. Robert s cave, remarkable on account of the discovery 
 of a skeleton here in 1759, which led to the conviction 
 and execution of the celebrated Eugene Aram. Knares- 
 borough has manufactories of linen and cotton, and its 
 corn-market is one of the largest in the county. Two M 
 P. Pop. 4,678. Knaresborough was the birthplace of the 
 famous blind guide John Metcalf. He had lost his sight 
 in infancy, and yet frequently acted as a guide over the 
 forest during the night, or when the paths were covered 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 285 
 
 with snow, contracted for making roads, building 
 bridges, &c. He died in 1810, aged ninety -three years." 
 
 I visited to-day the town of Harrogate. Placed in a 
 level land, and surrounded with hedges, houses rather 
 scattered. It is the Saratoga of the county of Yorkshire. 
 There are thousands here now to drink the water. The 
 mineral springs which are found here is all that which 
 has builded this town and boarding-houses are as nu 
 merous as any of the Spa places in America. 
 
 They charge all they can get too, and they will not 
 refuse even any amount after you have paid your 
 bill. 
 
 The Brunswick House is very good, but we rather liked 
 the " Crown Hotel," where they charged us an aristo 
 cratic charge for four days. 
 
 Here is the historical notice of it short and brief. 
 We have had some good times here, friends are kind, and 
 attended my lectures well : 
 
 " Harrogate is celebrated for its mineral springs, 
 which are annually visited by about 2,000 persons. It 
 consists of two scattered villages, known by the names of 
 High and Low Harrogate, situated about a mile from 
 each other, and possessing ample accommodation for visi- 
 
286 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 tors. Harrogate possesses both chalybeate and sulphur 
 ous springs. Of the former the oldest is the Tewit Well, 
 which was discovered about the year 1576. The Old 
 Spa, situated on the Stray, was discovered by Dr. Stan 
 hope, previous to 1631. The Starbeck chalybeate is 
 about midway between Harrogate and Knaresborough. 
 The Saline chalybeate is situated at Low Harrogate, and 
 was discovered in 1819. The sulphurous springs are, 
 the Old Sulphur Wells, situated at Low Harrogate, close 
 by the Leeds and Ripon road ; the Crown Sulphur Well, 
 situated in the pleasure-grounds belonging to the Crown 
 Hotel ; and the Knaresborough or Starbeck Spa, situated 
 nearly midway between Harrogate and Knaresborough. 
 Harrogate possesses a considerable number of hotels, 
 several boarding-houses, public baths, promenade-rooms, 
 ball and billiard-rooms, circulating libraries and reading- 
 rooms, four places of worship, &c. High and Low Har 
 rogate contain upwards of 4,000 inhabitants." 
 
 Saturday morning we set off to the North, to the great 
 coal place, Newcastle-upon-Tyne. 
 
 The railroad leads over a quite level country. Farms, 
 towns, and gentlemen s country-seats, are on our left and 
 on our right. The sky is better here. Coal-pits are all 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 287 
 
 along each side of the road. And vast quantities of coal 
 lay in heaps just from the bowels of the earth. 
 
 Newcastle is a very interesting city ; I preached here, 
 and always had very full audiences, and to Mr. McLiver 
 I am indebted for this, and afterwards also, from my 
 warm-hearted friend, Joseph Kimpster, one of the Dele 
 gates to the Peace Congress. 
 
 The notices of this place are given as follows : 
 " Newcastle-upon-Tyne is supposed to have derived its 
 origin from Pons 2Elii, the second station from the eastern 
 extremity of the Roman wall. Previous to the Conquest 
 the place was called Monkchester, from the number of 
 monastic institutions ; its present name was derived from 
 a castle erected here by Robert, eldest son of William 
 the Conqueror, on his return from an expedition into Scot 
 land. Newcastle was anciently the resort of numerous 
 pilgrims, who came to visit the holy well of Jesus 
 Mount, now Jesmond, a mile north-east of the town. 
 One of the principal streets in Newcastle is still called 
 Pilgrim Street. Another ancient town, called Pampedon, 
 appears to have been included in the limits of the modern 
 Newcastle ; its name may be traced in the modern Pan- 
 don Hall, Pandon Bank, &c. Newcastle has been the 
 
288 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 scene of many most interesting events in the history of 
 England. David I. of Scotland made himself master of 
 the town in the reign of Stephen, and obliged the people 
 to swear allegiance to the Empress Maude. Here John 
 of England and William the Lion of Scotland had a con 
 ference in the year 1209. Here again Alexander of 
 Scotland and his Queen came, in 1235-36, and had a 
 conference with the King of England. Here John Baliol 
 did homage to Edward I. for the crown of Scotland. In 
 1293, the famous Sir William Wallace, in one of his in 
 roads into England, made several vehement but unsuc 
 cessful attacks upon the town. In 1318, during the 
 reign of Edward II., an unsuccessful attempt at a perma 
 nent peace between the Scots and English was made 
 here two nuncios from the Pope, and two envoys from 
 Philip of France, besides the English and Scotch com 
 missioners, being present. In 1342, David Bruce, King 
 of Scotland, made an unsuccessful attack upon the town 
 shortly before the battle of Neville s Cross ; and, twelve 
 years afterwards, commissioners met here to consult on 
 his ransom. In 1642, Newcastle was besieged by the 
 Scottish army under General Lesley ; but the Marquis of 
 Newcastle, who was governor for the King, successfully 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 289 
 
 defended the town against him. In the next year, how 
 ever, the Scots under General Leven took it by storm ; 
 but Sir John Marlcy, then mayor, retired to the castle, 
 with about 500 men, which he held till terms of capitu 
 lation were obtained. In 1636, above 5,000 persons died 
 of the plague at Newcastle. In 1646, Charles I. was 
 brought hither from Newark by the Scots, to whom he 
 had surrendered himself. Newcastle is supposed to have 
 been incorporated by William Rufus ; but the first mayor 
 was appointed in the reign of Henry III. 
 
 The town, which has more than doubled its size during 
 the present century, is situated on the summit and decliv 
 ities of three lofty eminences, rising from the north bank 
 of the Tyne, and ten miles from its mouth. The town 
 of Gateshead occupies the opposite bank, and may be re 
 garded as a sort of suburb of Newcastle. " A strange 
 mixture of ancient and modern objects strikes your eye in 
 the more lofty and prominent features of Newcastle. 
 There stands, tall, and stalwart, and square, and black as 
 ink, the old donjon-keep of Robert Curthose, the son of 
 the Conqueror. To the left still higher towers over the 
 town the fine steeple of St. Nicholas, and to the right 
 
 the new and lofty column in honor of Earl Grey. Here, 
 13 
 
290 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 along the banks of the river, you see ranges, one above 
 another, of dim and dingy buildings, that have stood for 
 centuries amid the smoke of the great capital of coal ; 
 and there, on its bold eminence, a Grecian fabric, stand 
 ing proudly aloft, like the Temple of Minerva in Athens. 
 Beyond it, again, you catch the tops of houses, and 
 ranges of streets, that indicate a degree of modern mag 
 nificence which at once astonishes you in the midst of so 
 much that is different, and stimulates you to a nearer in 
 spection."* 
 
 Newcastle has undergone a most wonderful change 
 during the last few years. In the centre of the town the 
 old and narrow streets have been swept away, and some 
 of the noblest and most magnificent streets and squares 
 in the kingdom erected in their room. The person by 
 whose genius and industry this marvellous change has 
 been effected is Mr. Grainger, a native of the town, who 
 has made his way from the condition of a charity boy, 
 and the apprentice to a carpenter and builder. " The 
 following," says Miss Martineau, ; is a summary of five 
 years work of Mr. Grainger, from August, 1834, to 
 August, 1839. The old property removed consisted of 
 * Hewitt s Visits to Remarkable Places, 2d Series, p. 287. 
 
"EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 291 
 
 two theatres, the late butcher-market, Anderson Place, 
 one large inn, eight public-houses, eighty private houses, 
 and a great number of work-shops and inferior buildings. 
 The site of the improvements cost 145,937, workmen s 
 wages and materials, 499,753 ; total, 645,690. Out 
 of this have arisen the following : nine new streets, ex 
 tending collectively 1 mile 289 yards ; the new market, 
 the central exchange, new theatre, new dispensary, music 
 hall, lecture room, two chapels, Incorporated Company s 
 Hall, two auction marts, ten inns, twelve public-houses, 
 forty private houses, and 325 houses with shops. The 
 value of the whole amounts to 995,000." Besides 
 these magnificent erections, Mr. Grainger s plan compre 
 hends the junction of several railways, the formation of 
 extensive quays, the erection of ranges of manufactories, 
 and on the high ground of villas and terraces. 
 
 The other objects of interest in Newcastle are St. Nich 
 olas Church, a handsome edifice, with a beautiful spire 
 in the form of an imperial crown, an altar-piece, by Tin 
 toretto, and a valuable library, containing, among other 
 curious books, the Bible of Hexham Abbey; St. An 
 drew s Church, a very ancient structure, part of it of 
 Norman architecture St. John s Church, containing an 
 
292 EUKOPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 ancient font and several ancient monuments ; All Saints 
 Church, a modern edifice of Grecian architecture, with a 
 steeple 202 feet high; St. Ann s, St. Thomas s, Mary 
 Magdalene, &c. ; the infirmary, the Keelmen s Hospital, 
 the monument erected to Earl Grey, surmounted by a 
 statue of that nobleman ; the Royal Arcade, 250 feet 
 long, by 20 wide and 35 feet high, &c. The new cover 
 ed market is pronounced to be the finest in the kingdom. 
 Its area is more than two acres. Newcastle also pos 
 sesses several meeting-houses, hospitals, and other chari 
 table institutions, a literary and scientific institution, con 
 taining a fine library and reading room, a museum room of 
 Egyptian antiquities, a gallery of Roman altars, and other 
 antiquities, &c. The free grammar school was founded 
 by Thomas Horsley, who was mayor of Newcastle in 
 1525. Here the late Lords Eldon, Stowell, and Colling- 
 wood, the poet Akenside, and other eminent persons re 
 ceived the earlier part of their education. 
 
 The principal business of Newcastle is in the shipment 
 of coals, the produce of the surrounding coal-pits. About 
 three millions of tons of coals are shipped annually from 
 the river Tyne. The other chief articles of export are lead, 
 cast and wrought iron, glass and pottery, copperas and 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 293 
 
 other chemical productions, soap, colors, grindstones, salt, 
 and pickled salmon. The imports are wine, spirituous 
 liquors, and fruit, corn, timber, flax, tallow, and hides 
 from the Baltic, and tobacco and various other articles 
 from North America. 
 
 Newcastle returns two members to Parliament. Pop. 
 49,860." , 
 
 Newcastle is a noted place, and of late the railway 
 king, George Hudson, has done some good to this town 
 by having an iron and stone bridge which has been placed 
 across the chasm that forms the winding of the river. 
 A beautiful piece of workmanship it is too. 
 
 A white man, a day or two ago, deliberately took off 
 his clothes on the top of this bridge and jumped down to 
 the water just for the amusement of the bystanders 
 after coming up, he took up a collection among the wit 
 nesses to his performance. 
 
 Good as this place is, and kind as the friends are to us, 
 we must travel still northward, to Edinburgh. 
 
 The railroad scuds over the country which perceptibly 
 begins to change into a mountainous region from a low 
 monotonous country, yea, the road leads over a beautiful 
 country, just by precipices nearly overhanging the sea- 
 
294 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 shore. On one side is the mountain region, on the other 
 is the ocean sweeping on its bosom a thousand ships, and 
 far off is a steamer like a mere speck in the ocean. Its 
 snake-like trail behind hangs and is lost in the clear sky 
 from behind. 
 
 Though I have letters of some importance, yet I cannot 
 find it so convenient to be dependent altogether to great 
 names as long as one can help himself. 
 
 And now we are in Edinburgh ! the great city of the 
 Scotch people. This is that Castle which often I have 
 heard about, and now recurs to me a scene which I 
 saw some years ago in my native land. It was a group 
 of Scotch people who had just settled near by my father s. 
 Just then I began to hear them speak, and I heard the 
 name Edinburgh, and Edinburgh Castle so often that I 
 could speak it, if I could nothing besides for an elderly 
 woman with a pipe in her hand was sitting in the cor 
 ner of the log-fire, and she in speaking of " Edinburgh 
 Castle," wept like a child. " Na, na, na, ever see Edin 
 burgh Castle," said she, as she shook her head into her 
 lap. 
 
 I love to see in any one a love of country, so much as 
 to weep at the mention of one s birthplace. 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 295 
 
 Arid this is the city of palaces, and there are a great 
 many things to admire in this city. It is situated in a 
 romantic and abrupt country high, naked hills, grim- 
 visaged, hard-browed, and frowning with dignity. And 
 amidst this country so full of hills and so full of valleys 
 is this city situated. There is yonder palace where the 
 Q,ueen of Scots lived, " Holyrood Palace," and on that 
 high hill is the Edinburgh Castle, in which King James 
 was born. 
 
 what lovely sight it is to see in this wild scene 
 monuments to the memory of Scott and Burns ! I can 
 hardly see Nelson s on account of these others. 
 
 1 traversed this city, and saw a great many good men 
 the Rev. William Ried, one of the most eloquent divines 
 of this country, and a go-a-head reformer. Noble and 
 generous. God bless his heart. I spend a part of a week 
 here and the other in Glasgow, and I might stay here all 
 the rest of my days among a people who seem to be so 
 full of kindness. 
 
 I delivered three lectures in Edinburgh and two in 
 Glasgow, and finding I am required to be in London at 
 the first great meeting of the people who are friendly to 
 the cause of Temperance, I must again repair to London. 
 
296 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 While I stayed in Edinburgh I met J. P. Nichols, 
 LL.D., with whom I found much interest, as he has 
 been in America, and spoke much in favor of the Ameri 
 cans as a kind-hearted race of people. 
 
 I took breakfast with Professor Simpson, the discov 
 erer of chloroform, near the sea-shore with other friends. 
 A man of middle age, stature full, arid rather in the al- 
 dermanic order, his face well-proportioned, and his fore 
 head indicates his acquired fame. 
 
 The strangest thing that I saw was the fossil tree, the 
 remains of a tree in the rock under the hill of stone, 
 which, in blasting for rocks they found in a state of preser 
 vation, having turned into a rock. There it still lay 
 perfect its roots and branches, and tapered-off some 
 what inclined. 
 
 This is about 25 or 30 feet under the hill, and a short 
 distance from the water. No one can tell how long this 
 may have lain here. 
 
 After speaking to crowded houses in Edinburgh and 
 Glasgow, I must leave for London, by the way of Ber 
 wick. 
 
 And after a travel of a day arid a half I am again in 
 London. 
 
CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 LECTURES AND ADDRESSES IN LONDON, 
 AND TRAVELS TO THE NORTH. 
 
 THE great meeting at the London Tavern, is over, and 
 the papers are full of notices of it. Some applaud and 
 some condemn the speeches. 
 
 It was a brilliant sight indeed. Crowds had to leave 
 for want of room. 
 
 I will sit down and write about it to one of the Boston 
 papers of things in general which I have seen, and what 
 I have done in my northern tour. 
 
 LONDON, Oct. 25th, 1850. 
 EDITORS NEW-ENGLANDER : 
 
 Though I have been very silent since I came to this 
 country, it is not that I have been idle. 
 
 After enjoying the tour through Germany, Holland and 
 Belgium, I came to the city of London, and have been 
 travelling in the North of England for five weeks, and 
 
298 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 saw a glimpse of the Highlands of Scotland. I must 
 say, with reference to the home of the nohle-hearted 
 Scotch, it is near like the grandeur of America Ours is 
 of course better. 
 
 In my tour to the North, I have delivered lectures in 
 the principal cities and towns on my way, which were 
 well attended. I found in Newcastle-upon-Tyne a very 
 warm reception, and when I came away felt as though I 
 was leaving my Only friends. I hope to see them again. 
 
 In Scotland I found a people sturdy, energetic, enter 
 prising ; and in Edinburgh I can say I have friends who 
 will always be in the right place in my heart. Here- 
 and-there I have delivered temperance lectures for the 
 people, and though, in this land of " drinking," one has 
 to have an unusual precaution not to be led by the pop 
 ular fashion of drinking ; for if any one is to dine with 
 lords and dukes, there it is temperance principles are to 
 be tested. Comparing this country with America, the 
 latter is a sober country, for here, beer-drinking and gin- 
 drinking are the bane. The English are a beer-drinking 
 nation, the Scotch, a whiskey-drinking nation, and the 
 French, a wine-drinking nation. Each of these, of 
 course, drink other drinks besides cold water, but it is the 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 299 
 
 above peculiar drinks in which each excels. And yet, 
 through England and Scotland the people are at work in 
 organizing societies for the prevention of this bane of civ 
 ilization. 
 
 In Scotland, I addressed the young abstainers styling 
 themselves the " League of Temperance," twice once 
 in Edinburgh, and again in Glasgow. There were over 
 4,000 children assembled in the Free Presbyterian As 
 sembly-room, where I saw a sight, which, when I could 
 look into the future, I could say from my heart, " When 
 these shall become the representatives in the world forty 
 years from now, should they continue to abstain, old Al 
 cohol will die from starvation for the want of victims, 
 and this land, long polluted, will be seen by angels with 
 envious eyes ! 0, let it come !" I heard these children 
 sing, and while they sang their parents could look with a 
 smile as they thought of the bright future. I tried to 
 say something, but my heart was too much disturbed. 
 But I will tell you what I did and said after the lecture 
 was over. I told the children there were a great many 
 thousands of young teetotallers in America. I asked the 
 children to give three cheers for the young abstinence 
 cause in Europe ; they did, boys and girls waving caps, 
 
300 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 pocket-handkerchiefs, aprons, &c., with a sound like 
 that of many waters! And then "once more, three 
 hearty cheers for all young abstainers in North America." 
 Then it was I heard a cheer which lasted for more than 
 a minute. The immense building in every part was 
 crammed. 
 
 I addressed also a meeting in a large chapel in Glas 
 gow, and that, too, was crowdingly attended, though it 
 is perilous for me to go to Scotland, on account of the 
 kindness of the people. I am going again in the course 
 of two weeks, and after enjoying several more meetings, 
 I hope to leave for my native land. 
 
 O, how dear is my land to me ! 
 If now no other way could I see 
 Than to swim across over the wide sea, 
 I d see my home and then see thee ! 
 
 I attended at the " London Tavern" the first of a se 
 ries of temperance meetings which are to be held during 
 the coming winter, or during the World s Fair. 
 
 I cannot chronicle every event which transpired in my 
 stay in this city. The meetings I attended in the sub 
 urbs of the city were interesting. Norwood, Kentish- 
 town, Maberly, Westminster, &c. 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 301 
 
 Here I became acquainted with a gentleman by the 
 name of John Cassell, a coffee-dealer, a Yankee-English 
 man, tall and well made. He related to me the time 
 when he used to deliver temperance lectures throughout 
 the country. I believe he is now very rich. He is the 
 principal mover in this great temperance demonstration. 
 
 My lectures and addresses were always well attended. 
 
 Here also I became acquainted with the great English 
 Temperance Apostle Jabez Burns, D.D. Preached for 
 him and attended several temperance lectures with him. 
 I found him very favorably disposed to the Americans in 
 general, and yet hates the institution of slavery. 
 
 I had to get myself an office at the Strand where I 
 could see the people who called on me every day. 
 
 The great temperance demonstration has taken place 
 in Drury-lane Theatre, being the largest hall or house 
 which could be got, as the Old Exeter Hall is now un 
 dergoing repairs. 
 
 Committee after committee has called to get me to de 
 liver addresses for benevolent purposes. Letters are 
 pouring in from the surrounding country, of pressing in 
 vitations. I wish I could go and see them all, it would 
 gratify me very much. 
 
302 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 It has been raining for some time, and the fog of this 
 country is different from any other the mud and fog 
 are the same, for in these narrow streets the mud flies, 
 and the fog is all down in the mud, so heavy is the at 
 mosphere. 
 
 I was pleasantly quartered with a gentleman in Vin 
 cent Square while I stayed there. 
 
 This is the last Sabbath I am to be in the city. 
 
 My appointments run to the North as follows : 
 
 Nov. 7, 1850 . . . London. 
 
 " 8, " ... Manchester. 
 
 " 9, " ... Manchester. 
 
 " 10, " (Sunday,) London. 
 
 " 11, " ... Huddersfield. 
 
 " 12, " ... Manchester. 
 
 " 13, " ... Huddersfield. 
 
 " 14, " ... York, (7 1-2 o clock.) 
 
 " 15, " ... Darlington, (7 1-2 o clock.) 
 
 " 16, "... 
 
 " 17, " (Sunday,) Newcastle-upon-Tyne. 
 
 " 18, " ... Sunderland. 
 
 " 19, " ... York. 
 
 " 20, " ... Sunderland. 
 
 " 21, " . . . Darlington. 
 
 " 22, " ... Newcastle-upon-Tyne. 
 
EUKOPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 303 
 
 Nov. 23, 1850 ... Edinburgh. 
 
 " 24, " (Sunday,) Edinburgh. 
 
 " 25, " ... Edinburgh. 
 
 " 26, " ... Edinburgh. 
 
 " 27, ... Dundee. 
 
 " 28, " ... Perth. 
 
 " 29, " ... Dundee. 
 
 " 30, " ... Glasgow. 
 
 Dec. 1, " (Sunday,) Paisley. 
 
 2, " ... Glasgow. 
 
 3, " ... Perth. 
 
 4, " ... Edinburgh. 
 
 5, " ... Edinburgh. 
 
 .6, " . . . Travel to Liverpool. 
 " 7, " ... To sail for America by the 
 
 steamer Africa. 
 
 Such are my appointments before I sail for my native 
 land. 
 
 To begin with, I am not well and have already disap 
 pointed two of my audiences at Manchester. A cold has 
 been on me which has prostrated me. 
 
 I am just able to go and fill my London appointment 
 at the Rev. S. Luke s. 
 
 The following is the address which I gave because 
 many here had heard of a plan which I had proposed to 
 the general Government of this country for the purpose 
 
304: EUEOPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 of doing something good for our Indians. Arid I deliv 
 ered this for the purpose of doing the cause of my race 
 some good before the British public. 
 
 THE EVANGELIZATION OF THE NORTH AMERICAN 
 INDIANS. 
 
 "" My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge." HOSEA iv. 6. 
 
 " I have taken upon myself this afternoon to adopt the 
 language of God in the mouth of His prophet, 785 years 
 before the birth of the Saviour ; and perhaps, in the midst 
 of this crowded audience, there is no one who is more fit 
 to adopt these words than myself. My people are de 
 stroyed for lack of knowledge. 
 
 In speaking of the history of my brethren, the North 
 American Indians, I cannot help referring to the many 
 evils which have tended to reduce, or demoralize, and to 
 ruin them, since the discovery of the western continent. 
 In view of all that I have seen, as well as of all which 
 history relates, I can adopt the language of the text : 
 My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge. And, 
 in speaking this afternoon briefly upon the subject, I 
 would first endeavor to engage your attention, by refer 
 ring to the means of the destruction of the North Ameri- 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 305 
 
 can Indians, arising from their social disarrangement 
 the condition in which they were found, when America 
 was first discovered. It has been the idea of many, that 
 the downfall and ruin of some nations is absolutely ne 
 cessary, before they can be blessed by Christian educa 
 tion ; but, on referring to the structure of society, and the 
 elements which have caused their downfall and ruin, you 
 will find that it has not been altogether through the iron 
 will of Him that lives above, that they have declined 
 and disappeared from the face of the earth. And this, 
 which applies especially to the Indians, will be found to 
 hold good, in most instances, with regard to the other na 
 tions of the earth. What, then, has caused the ruin and 
 the downfall of the Indians of North America ? 
 
 One of the first reasons is, that of the 273 Indian 
 tribes of America, about a quarter of them, that have 
 had to do with Europeans, have come in contact with the 
 worst classes of society. There is a class of men, roman 
 tic in their ideas, adventurous in their spirits, and reck 
 less in their lives, having no morals, nor fear of God s 
 law, nor regard to the common law of mankind ; and 
 these are the first to come in contact with the different 
 races of men all over the earth They have nothing in 
 
306 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 the shape of morality, or of Christian education that 
 education which, in coming in contact with the nations 
 of the earth, warms up their universal characteristic, 
 which is veneration. These have been the men, that 
 have sowed discord and perpetuated so many jars in our 
 country, and produced the greatest prejudices against 
 civilization or education in the minds of the Indians. 
 They reason thus. If these are the specimens of civil 
 ized life, they have little predilection to become civilized 
 after the same manner. They have little or nothing to 
 do with Christian, civilized, good people ; they are ac 
 quainted only with the worst classes -of society, who 
 prowl about the forest, like roaring lions, and on their 
 way sow destruction and discord ; and instead of him 
 who once could send up a shout, and a merry shout of 
 his children, to the skies, grief, misery and distress have, 
 step by step, followed the course of the Indian. 
 
 The second reason that I give, why the Indians of 
 North America have not improved, but have been reduced 
 in numbers, since they have come in contact with Eu 
 ropean races, is, the introduction of ammunition of 
 war, in the shape of rifles and muskets. It is true that 
 the Indians were just as expert with the bow arid arrow, 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 307 
 
 before they came in contact with the races of men that 
 had what they termed the " serpent, that spits out fire 
 and death," which was their definition of a gun ; but they 
 soon saw that a shot would do more execution than an 
 arrow ; and therefore, in their wars among themselves, 
 they have destroyed one another ten times more than be 
 fore they possessed such a weapon. 
 
 The third reason is, that the Indians have been 
 brought together on both sides of the armies of the Eu 
 ropean powers that h-ave fought in our country. The 
 Spanish, the French, the Dutch, the Americans, and the 
 British, have all called out the aid of the savage from 
 the forest wilds, to arm against their supposed enemies. 
 Before this the Indians knew not what they were at war 
 with each other for ; but the Indian s prowess, bravery, 
 stern nature, have been appealed to, and he has been 
 caused to leave his forest wild, and in the midst of the 
 war-shout and the death-song he has sung and danced 
 like a fiend, intoxicated, as it were, by the promises that 
 have been given to him, in the event of victory. But the 
 Indian goes back to the wood, and no one cares for him, 
 much less to teach him Christianity. 
 
 The fourth reason is, because the institutions, or at 
 
308 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 least the schools, that have been established in our coun 
 try, have not met the ivants of the Indian youth. It 
 has heen an idea of some of our missionaries, that in 
 order to become educated we must be taught in our own 
 language. Therefore the Indians, in learning their own 
 language, have perpetuated their own ideas, and had no 
 thing to do with English literature. Twelve years ago, 
 when I first began to speak the English language, I used 
 to tell the missionaries " Teach the Indian children the 
 English language, and you will not be under the necessi 
 ty of teaching them their own, for that will come to 
 them naturally." For instance. There are some letters 
 in the English alphabet which we omit entirely such 
 as f, I, r, v, x ; these are altogether silent we have no 
 use for them. Now, if we are taught in our own lan 
 guage, we cannot make any use of these ; but the sooner 
 we are taught the English language, the sooner will we 
 be introduced into the wide fields of the past, as well as 
 the literature of the white man ; and by reading, learn 
 ing, transforming gradually the entire feelings, the 
 thoughts, the actions, the very emotions of the Indian, 
 we become even as the noble white man that loves his 
 God. But because we have been taught in our own Ian- 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 309 
 
 guage, we have been perpetuating our old ideas from one 
 to another. Two or three years back I visited the west 
 ern country, went through the valleys of the Mississippi 
 and the Missouri. There I saw that the missionaries had 
 begun to adopt what I told them, and what they ought 
 to have done in the first instance. Now we are twenty- 
 five or thirty years in our progress behind what we should 
 have been, if, at the moment we came in contact with 
 good men, we had been taught English education. The 
 ignorance that arises from our not learning the English 
 language in the first instance, has been another of the 
 means, indirectly, of the decrease of our race. 
 
 Fifthly, diseases of a. foreign nature have been intro 
 duced diseases which were not before known among us 
 such as the small-pox and other epidemics, and the dis 
 eases arising from a course of vicious habits ; and nation 
 after nation has died, through not knowing how to check 
 these diseases. Thus, the Mandans, and others in the 
 west, were once powerful nations. In the years 37 and 
 
 38 the small-pox raged among the nations of the west ; 
 
 
 
 and one of those tribes that suffered most I saw a year 
 ago, last October. When the old chief perceived that his 
 village was dying away every hour that his wife was 
 
310 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 declining, that some of his family had already died, and 
 that himself was about to fall a victim to the horrible 
 disease, he said to his two sons " Go to the east, to the 
 wigwams of the white man ; never look back ; go right 
 to the east, and tell them that we have all died here in 
 our village." They started, and went across the Council 
 Bluffs ; and at the fall of that year the younger of the 
 two got his brother to go back again ; and there they 
 saw their once populous village all desolate, and their 
 whole country, as it were, laid waste by this dreadful dis 
 ease ; and when they went to their wigwam, they saw 
 the remains of their relatives. They hunted round the 
 different places, to see if they could discover any traces 
 of their father. They went just below the spring, and 
 there they saw something in the shape of a coat ; they 
 went up to it, and perceived the remains of their father ; 
 his old pipe, that he often had with him in his council, 
 lay by, his pouch also by his side. There he lay, with 
 his head towards the water, as if he had gone there to 
 die. The youngest of the brothers went to the top of the 
 hill, near the banks of the river, and stood looking about 
 wildly over the whole country, that seemed to have been 
 covered by the ravages of disease. His brother was just 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 311 
 
 in the act of going away from him ; and this young man 
 could not bear the idea that they two were the only rep 
 resentatives of a village of nearly two thousand people. 
 He looked round on the country in which he once lived, 
 and the fields over which he had sported, and seemed as 
 if taken by despair. He seized his gun, put the muzzle 
 of it to his mouth ; and when his brother turned to look 
 at him, he saw the flash ; and he fell a victim to despair. 
 Such are the effects of disease in our country. 
 
 The last reason that I will give, why the Indians of 
 North America have decreased so much, is the use of al 
 coholic drinks. The Indian has no polished society to 
 check him, no social ties to restrain him ; and therefore, 
 when he comes in contact with the intoxicating liquor he 
 drinks and drinks, and step by step digs his grave, and 
 down he goes. This is perhaps one of the strongest rea 
 sons I have named. The whole of our country was 
 blessed with the smiles of the Great Spirit, before such 
 things were introduced among us ; and now what is the 
 consequence ? The gradual diminishing of some nations, 
 and the utter extinction of others. Gradually do they 
 recede towards the setting sun, till it has become a creed 
 to the white man, that it is of no use to endeavor to 
 
312 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 check their progress, and to save the North American In 
 dians. 
 
 These are some of the things, my friends, that have 
 produced the downfall and ruin of my brethren. But I 
 am surprised to find even in Christian lands, where I see, 
 and am delighted to see, the white man engaged in read 
 ing this blessed Book, that he should think he discovers 
 in that Book some things that might be construed into 
 the idea, that the iron laiv of God is that which has 
 crushed and made few the noble sons of America. It 
 is not so, my brethren. I read in a different light from 
 this the character of the God whom you love and serve. 
 His benevolence is written in the page of nature around 
 me ; and every blade of glass, and the sweet sounds that 
 vibrate on my ear, and salute my heart with feelings of 
 warm emotion, tell me that the God who made the earth 
 is a God of love. The God that we adore, my brethren, 
 is not the author of the downfall and ruin of the North 
 American Indians ; it is the laws of nature disarranged 
 altogether in the Indian, by the elements of destruction 
 which I have named, which has caused his downfall. 
 
 But, it may be asked, why is it that the Indians of 
 North America have not improved, when they have been 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 313 
 
 in contact with Christian men, and since efforts have 
 been put forth to save them? It is too often the case, 
 that because we place so much value on what little we 
 bestow for the cause of Almighty God that we expect in 
 a short time to receive an equivalent, in the shape of 
 trophies to His glory. I have in my hand a little work, 
 which illustrates the gradual progress of the North Amer 
 ican Indians in literature. Among the Indians to which 
 I belong, the Ojibway nation, our publications amount to 
 fifty-three, consisting of translations of different books for 
 schools, as well as the Word of God. We have a good 
 deal of the Old Testament translated into our language, 
 and the whole of the New Testament. The Mohawks 
 have five or six translations of various works ; the Sene- 
 cas also have different translations. The Shawnees have 
 a variety of literature, which belong to them alone. 
 The Ottawas have five or six translations of English 
 literature, as well as of the Bible and Testament. The 
 Menomenes, Wyandott, Sioux, Chickasaws, Choctaws, 
 Creeks, Osages, and the Cherokees all these Indian na 
 tions have various books, for the purpose of improving 
 the young mind. The Cherokees, perhaps, have improv 
 ed a great deal faster than the other Indian nations, 
 14 
 
314 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 though their having been driven from their abode, the 
 side of the Mississippi, has prevented them from improv 
 ing so fast as they would otherwise have done. The 
 Ojibways are beginning to have several of their own 
 seminaries amongst them, for the purpose of perpetuating 
 pure principles in our country : and if living in brick 
 houses, and having farm-yards, that are filled with differ 
 ent kinds of domestic animals, and fields that wave be 
 fore the wind, are no signs of civilization, the Indians 
 will never become civilized. If the Indian, having been 
 taught the means of elevation, have not exhibited any 
 energy of character, in order to grasp the great truths 
 that were presented to his mind, and store them in his 
 heart then his condition is a hopeless one. We have 
 sometimes been told that the Indians cannot improve ; 
 but send one of our young men into your halls of educa 
 tion, and see if he will be behind four or five white boys 
 that are sent there at the same time, with the same ad 
 vantages for instruction. Not one of these I have known 
 that have been sent into religious schools, but what has 
 come back at least with a great deal of credit to himself, 
 and much gratification to the hearts of those that sent 
 him. The composition of the Indian s mind is like that 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 315 
 
 of the Saxon race ; it only requires hard rubbing, in or 
 der to bring out the brightest and best qualities. 
 
 What, then, have missions done ? This has often 
 been asked me, by people in this country, as well as in 
 America ; laughing at the idea of our missions, as if they 
 had not done anything, and pointing with the finger of 
 scorn at the scenes of their labors. Now, if these people 
 can give us a plan that has worked better than ours, I 
 ceitainly will adopt it, provided it be attached to the 
 eternal throne ; but do not tell me that splendid laws, 
 and education, and such policy as this, is alone to be the 
 means of profiting the nation to which I belong. It is 
 not your farms nor your palaces that we want ; it is that 
 sanctified education that has made your people become 
 powerful, energetic, and prosperous. But do not tell rne 
 that education alone is necessary, in order to elevate the 
 Indian. Why, my brethren, I like education very well ; 
 but apart from Christianity, apart from the morals of the 
 Gospel, it is like building a splendid mansion by the sea 
 side ; in a few years it will begin to reel, and down it 
 must thunder at last upon the waters. But place the 
 edifice upon the Rock that was given for the salvation of 
 the world, and build it as high as the skies, and it will 
 
816 EUEOPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 remain, to guide the pathway of generations in the fu 
 ture. When you have the principles of the Gospel to 
 cement a structure of this kind, it must stand, and per 
 petuate its blessings to those who live around its base. 
 This is the kind of education that we want for the red 
 man of the west. 
 
 We have had diversity of missions. Our Methodist 
 friends work their way ; our Presbyterian friends their 
 way ; our Baptist friends their way, the Episcopalian 
 church their way, the Moravians their way. Why, my 
 dear friends, when it concerns the salvation of a na 
 tion why do we go to perpetuate the heart-burnings 
 gendered in the breasts of those who alike read and learn 
 the laws of God and the Word of God ? If any one 
 comes into our country as a missionary, I would to God 
 that he would leave all his dogmas behind him, and 
 bring the simple Word of truth in his hands, with his 
 heart swelling with the work that is before him. It is 
 then that he will become like a comet, blazing forth in 
 the dark mind of the Indian. This diversity has been 
 one of the great means of retarding the progress of im 
 provement ; because the missionaries think that they are 
 hired, for 50, or 60, or 80 a-year, to go and perpet- 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 317 
 
 uate the particular views of the denomination that sent 
 them ; whereas the Indians do not even know that there 
 are such views. We want the morals of the Gospel ; 
 we want that kind of instruction which shall open heaven 
 itself, and let down the gentle stream of God s grace, and 
 which, instead of diffusing discord and contending ele 
 ments, shall bind society, as it were, in one, and teach 
 men, for mutual good, to labor side by side, in unfolding 
 the banner of Christ. 
 
 And now in reference to the cause which I have to 
 advocate before you. Ever since the first settlement in 
 North America, emigration has been pressing westward 
 to the setting sun. For the last 350 years the avarice 
 of the wicked white man has pawed and gnawed the 
 property of the Indian, and has been crying every day, 
 more land, more land; and the Indian s wigwam has 
 been destroyed, and he has felt the effects of the rapid 
 stride of emigration ; and this has kept him from im 
 proving, as he ought, from the missionaries. I have 
 aided several denominations of missionaries in the west, 
 and pointed out to them what I thought the best sta 
 tions ; but after laboring thus for several years, I began 
 to see, that in order to do good we must get the Indians 
 
318 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 into a particular locality, where we might concentrate 
 ourselves, to give them instruction of a moral and re 
 ligious character. My idea has therefore been, to influ 
 ence the Congress of the United States to give to us, at 
 the north-west, a territory a country about 150 miles 
 square, on which to locate the Indians who are already 
 partly civilized, those that want to become civilized 
 might come in one after another voluntarily, and to let 
 all the rest of the continent be given for the white man. 
 If a fifth or a sixth of the proceeds of our lands, or the 
 annuities of the Indians, were to be placed at the dispo 
 sal of men capable of marking out the best places to 
 build school-houses and provide masters, it would be suffi 
 cient for the whole country to be blessed by Christian 
 education. Our missionaries, when they come in contact 
 with the government, do not say anything ; if they do, 
 they are represented as being antagonistic, and the cause 
 of both the missionary and the Indian suffer. Now let 
 that land be given us institutions of learning arid build 
 ings, would soon commence to carry on a civil form of 
 government, that the civilized Indians might, after a 
 while, assemble to make laws for themselves ; till they 
 have irrigated the whole of that country with streams of 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 319 
 
 literature arid knowledge, and taken such a course as 
 shall more endear them to the people who live around 
 them. 
 
 I need not ask you, my friends, to listen to me as to 
 the practicability of this design, because I have already 
 detained you too long ; but permit rne, in conclusion, to 
 say, that this state of things js desired not only by those 
 who, like myself, have seen the necessity of such meas 
 ures, but even by the Indians that know not one letter 
 of the alphabet ; and many of them have been the fore 
 most to shake me with their warm hands, and encourage 
 me in my visits among them, and also in claiming the 
 attention of the American people to the subject. I re 
 member that, in the month of October, when I went to 
 the great Missouri river one morning, I rode about sixteen 
 miles before the run rose, in order to see the cliffs of bar 
 ren clay on the Council Bluffs. About seven miles dis 
 tant the smoke from the wigwams of a thousand lodges 
 ascended at the other side of the stream. At five miles 
 yonder I saw the ascending of another column of smoke 
 to the skies. When I went there, I saw an old chief. 
 Through the medium of an interpreter for I do not un 
 derstand all the Indian languages he asked me what I 
 
320 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 was doing in that country, since he understood I had 
 come a great way from the north-east. He was told that 
 I had travelled, and visited the Indian nations beyond 
 the two valleys of the Mississippi and the Missouri, and 
 the base of the Rocky Mountains, for the purpose of re 
 ceiving their encouragement, or obtaining their assent to 
 my plan for asking the government of the United States 
 for a country of the description I have named. When I 
 felt the warm grasp of this old man, nearly seventy years 
 of age, who had seldom received the hand of a civilized 
 Indian before, and saw the fiery spark flash from his dark 
 eyes, of intense interest and anxiety, it was to tell me 
 " Onward, then, onward ! Stop not at those things 
 which may intervene. The day will come, when the 
 Indian with the white man shall be blessed with a home 
 like this." Yes, my brethren, difficulties have been in 
 my way. The language I had to learn first ; and I have 
 not at command as much means as I should like. This 
 has been another thing that has impeded my way. But if 
 labor is to bring the object, if toil is to bring it, if energy 
 is to bring it, I have long laid my soul and body upon the 
 altar, for the salvation of my brethren ; and I look for 
 ward to the day, when I shall see them enjoying Chris- 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 321 
 
 tian institutions, as you enjoy them. I have sometimes 
 gone to the summit of some of your public buildings, as 
 well as of those in other countries which I have visited, 
 and I have seen chapels and churches rising all through 
 the country, dotting the entire land of the pale-face ; and 
 wherever I have seen a religious institution, it has told 
 me that it was intended to perpetuate the glorious prin 
 ciples of Christianity. 
 
 When I go back to America, I hope to renew my re 
 quest to the Congress. On the 25th of last February I 
 placed a memorial in their hands ; and it has been refer 
 red to a committee. The committee have not yet acted 
 on the measure, in consequence of the agitation on the 
 slavery question. I expect now to go across the great 
 deep to my native land again, to renew my request for a 
 grant of land, there to plant missionaries, to open schools, 
 and to invite rny Indian brethren to receive education. 
 And oh ! my brethren, shall I ask you this afternoon, 
 that you will follow me to the setting sun with your pray 
 ers ? I have seen tears moisten the face of the white 
 man ; I have seen his eyes swimming in the waters of 
 sympathy ; I am glad that Providence pointed out a way 
 
 for me to come to your country ; and could I but carry. 
 14* 
 
322 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 with me, without injury to your people, the elements 
 which have made you become a great nation could I 
 but go to the west, and there sow the seed that shall 
 spring up under the smiles of the Great Spirit, for me to 
 enjoy a morsel of the effects of my labors, I should be 
 richly rewarded, even though they prove not entirely suc 
 cessful before I die. On the 7th of December I expect 
 to sail for America, and to call out two of my elder breth 
 ren, one to the western, another to the eastern states ; 
 and it is my purpose to go to the south, and hold public 
 meetings all over the country, in order to bring about that 
 kind of influence which may act upon Congress, upon a 
 certain day, in the city of Washington On the last oc 
 casion I was asked to present my address to the two 
 houses. I did not consent, because I had not then 
 matured my plans so much as I have since ; but if 
 that privilege is given me, I purpose laying my plan be 
 fore them, on the 25th of February, 1851, and to ask as 
 a Christian that we may receive a grant of land, on 
 which to plant the standard of the cross, arid that as it 
 waves there our Indian children may receive the glorious 
 principles of the Christian religion. 
 
 My brethren, when I hear such agitation in the public 
 
EUKOPEAN OBSEKVATIONS. 323 
 
 mind, with respect to the aggression of one part of what 
 is called Christendom, in this country, I do not wish to 
 disparage one of you by saying, that we have been sleep 
 ing for a long time, while the enemy has been watching 
 us, and has sent his own children, even into the forests 
 of America, and they, with their imposing pictures of 
 saints, have set aside the heathenish worship of the Indi 
 ans, and placed theirs in its stead : not a kind of Chris 
 tian moral training, but only a training of the senses, in 
 stead of that heart-training which is so necessary. I do 
 not wish for anything of this kind in my native land. I 
 have seen these men place the cross of Christ on the tops 
 of their churches, instead of keeping that cross in the 
 heart, where it may be cherished, and throw out the 
 graces that it bestows. My brethren, we want you to be 
 come our teachers. We want you to point out to us the 
 true elements of greatness ; and if we can reach your 
 world easier, we will perhaps come and see you oftener. 
 I am glad that it belongs to the Christians in North 
 America, at the end of the nineteenth century, to show 
 what Christianity has done for the Indian. I have some 
 times looked at your little children that you love and ad 
 mire, and as I have watched their tiny hands and feet, I 
 
324 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 have thought to myself Perhaps these little creatures 
 will one day, when I am an old man, come and plant 
 themselves in my native land ; and they may be the 
 very ones that shall lead the Indian to his God, and make 
 the wide territory of the Indian resound with the praises 
 of the Most High. Send them to us, my brethren. We 
 will cherish them near us. Oh ! that God may direct 
 their footsteps to us, that we may receive from their lips 
 the education for which we plead for our Indians. May 
 God prosper the white man of this country ! May He 
 bestow His mercies upon him still ; and while the pray 
 ers of your children ascend from the eartfe, may a drop 
 of its answer come to the wigwam of the Indian, that he 
 may receive benefits by your gifts, by your benevolence 
 and by your prayers !" 
 
 The above is from the British Pulpit. 
 
 On my way throughout those towns which I have 
 visited I have found friends. And I could here fill page 
 after page in narrative to their many kindnesses, which 
 when I think of them I am with them. There are the 
 friends in Darlington, Mr. John Harris, the Peeses, the 
 mayor of Sunderland, and the mayor of Newcastle. In 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 325 
 
 all the towns I have visited I have delivered lectures on 
 subjects which are more familiar to me, such as 
 
 The Religious Belief, Poetry and Eloquence of the 
 N. A. Indians. 
 
 The Peculiarities of the Indians Their Manners 
 and Customs. 
 
 The Probable Origin of the Indians and their 
 Traditions, Courtship, fyc. 
 
 One which has interested most is the following : 
 
 America : its Elements of Greatness and its Scenery. 
 
 Here is a notice of one of those from the Yorkshireman, 
 in York : 
 
 " A lecture was delivered on Wednesday evening, in 
 the Lecture Hall, Goodramgate, by Kah-ge-ga-gah-bowh. 
 Mr. Thomas Monkhouse was called upon to preside. 
 The lecture embraced a view of America its elements, 
 and its scenery. The country of which he intended to 
 speak was North America proper. The scenery of North 
 America was one of diversified grandeur possessing the 
 natural features of climate peculiar to all nations 
 from the warmth of the south to the coldness of the 
 north, possessing a wildness and a brilliancy that can 
 only be seen in the vast magnificence and variety of 
 
326 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 America. As America was on the day when first dis 
 covered, so is she to be found at the present day. He 
 should scorn that man who did not love his native coun 
 try, and therefore he hoped his audience would excuse 
 him. The land he was about to speak of to place be 
 fore their mind s eye, was a scene ancient in itself, sub 
 lime in its development, and one that any man might 
 covet. In the ambrosial south was to be found every 
 thing that the heart of man could desire. He did not 
 speak of North America as the country of his adoption. 
 It was America, in her forests and her plains that he 
 called his home, it was that land which his fathers held 
 by right and by possession. He reminded his audience 
 that North America is washed on one side by the waves 
 of the Pacific, and on the other by the waters of the At 
 lantic on each side, therefore, bounded by two mighty 
 oceans. Its mountains stretch far out from the south 
 and extend away to the north, displaying the many 
 beauties with which one half the country is interspersed, 
 and which but few other lands could boast of. Its lofty 
 mountains and extensive valleys possess a majestic wild- 
 ness, contrasted with its universal hills. Its rivers are 
 mighty oceans, and away into the far interior of that 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 327 
 
 country, run those mighty oceans. As for its lakes they 
 were like inland seas. The chain of lakes was connected 
 with the St. Lawrence, and on they rolled, until, step by 
 step, step by step, they fall down into the falls of Nia 
 gara ; and still rolling on until they emerge into the far 
 oceans of the east. The lakes of this magnificent and 
 fertile land were not like the little pond but extending 
 into the country, to the distance of two, three, four, and 
 five hundred miles, and about 250 miles wide. In 
 Speaking of the rivers of America the Chief related an 
 anecdote. He was standing on Blackfriars Bridge with 
 a friend one day, who asked him if he had ever seen 
 such a river ? Perhaps he had, replied the Chief. I 
 suppose, said the friend, the Mississippi is a little lar 
 ger ? The Chief replied to this, It is a little larger, 
 and perhaps a little clearer, too. Speaking of the Mis 
 sissippi he said, you may stand on the highest peak in 
 the north and watch it running towards the east into the 
 northern lakes. There sloping its course travels the Mis 
 sissippi 2,500 miles until it reaches the regions of the 
 arctic world. He came now to describe the source of 
 this mighty river. He travelled with a friend in 1844 
 along this river in a canoe. After travelling through 
 
328 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 the lakes for two days and a half, they came to a place 
 where, from the shallowness of the creek, they were 
 obliged to lift out their vessel. Following this course 
 for another seven miles they came to a place where they 
 saw it bubbling forth from the side of a hill. There he 
 laid his hands across the stream. It seemed not to move, so 
 gentle was that tide. Then he took away his hand, and 
 the Mississippi travelled on as usual. So small was that 
 stream that he stepped over it and then back again, and 
 there, lost in wonder, he stood beside that little tiny 
 stream, and watched it pass him by ; not a noise it made. 
 He followed the stream that tiny thing which he held 
 
 in the palm of his hand until he beheld it deepen its 
 
 i 
 way, and swell its sides, and gather a mighty power in its 
 
 road. He saw it struggling, and as they turned towards 
 the sun, they could see the mighty Mississippi rolling on 
 its majestic course on towards the southern climes until 
 it unbosomed itself in the great gulf of the south. The 
 lecturer next noticed the snowy mountains, and others 
 covered with fire, and having described these in his 
 usual eloquent style, he proceeded to notice the soils of 
 
 America. The soil in that land in its temperate clime is 
 
 * 
 good, and he thought it the best, perhaps, for Europeans. 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 329 
 
 Whilst speaking of the soils, he deemed it necessary to 
 make this remark with respect to emigration. Emi 
 grants inquired as to the hest places, and he advised no 
 emigrant to go south of the southern base of the Missouri, 
 nor north of Lake Superior, which he called the temper 
 ate climate. South of the Missouri the inhabitants are 
 subject to bilious complaints and other diseases. The 
 climate he pointed out was well suited to Europeans, 
 being situate between the extreme heat and the extreme 
 cold. With respect to the soil, he said he had observed 
 it to be as good 5, 6, and 7 feet down as at the surface. 
 He said a man with 1,000 could obtain one of the best 
 farms in the western world. Having said this much for 
 its soil, the Chief proceeded to speak of its forests in con 
 nection with its prairies. In the forests of his native 
 land he had travelled month after month without finding 
 an opening. It seemed a world of forest amid those lofty 
 American pines, towering away to the height of 250 feet, 
 in their majesty waving and bowing in the skies 
 and seeming to laugh at and defy the powers of the ele 
 ments. It was here his forefathers lived when first dis 
 covered. Having no fireworks to amuse themselves or 
 their children with, sometimes the natives set fire to 
 
330 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 these forests, and then it seemed as though the whole 
 forest world was in a blaze, throwing its lurid flame 
 around, and lighting up the distant hills in the dead of 
 night. The whole of this country is flat, abounding with 
 buffalos, elks, and deer. The minerals of America were 
 next touched upon. Abundance of lead is found in the 
 north part of Illinois and Wisconsin. The Indians dis 
 covered this mineral about 200 years ago, and made use 
 of it. It then lay upon the surface of the hills, and the 
 natives used it to write thereon their traditionary stories. 
 In Wisconsin, there is abundance of copper, as well as in 
 the State of New Jersey. Lake Superior, also, was said 
 to be nearly lined with copper. The Pittsburg company 
 had made immense sums with the copper mines, arid had 
 declared a dividend of 75 per cent. The next mineral, so 
 much coveted by the pale-face, the red-face, or the In- 
 diari as well, was gold. He exhorted his hearers to be 
 lieve about one third of the stories they had heard respect 
 ing California. He next proceeded to review America 
 as a land of promise. It was a land mighty in its natu 
 ral productions. It was the residence of a race of men 
 having rnind, and lofty moral faculties ; a nation of pro 
 gress, developing the grand powers of man. When they 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 331 
 
 came to view a country like this, they asked themselves, 
 was it a country suited to the purpose of raising the man 
 of tall intellect, of broad benevolence ? man that would 
 take as it were the earth and put it in his heart ? 
 America was nearly a temperance country compared with 
 ours. This was one of the elements of its greatness. It 
 was temperance that lifted, as it were, the great curtain 
 of ignorance from before the eyes cf the people, the sun 
 poured in his rays of light from the skies, man rejoiced 
 and received the benefits thereof. (Applause.) It was 
 intemperance that had fettered and retarded the progress 
 of Christianity in the earth. It was this evil that fet 
 tered the progress of the truths of a Luther, a Calvin, a 
 Wesley and a Whitefield. (Applause.) It. was the 
 bottle that checked its course, and dammed its influence. 
 They might boast of their splendid edifices, and of the 
 diversified architecture, but as long as this demon was 
 allowed a place in the edifice, so long would he throw 
 his dark tail around, and sting to the very vitals ! So 
 long as this continued, so long would progress move on 
 in its slow-coach style. (Applause.) America was a 
 bible country ; and thirdly, the Americans were a people 
 of enterprise. After dwelling at considerable length on 
 
332 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 the scenery of America, in which he introduced and de 
 picted in a finely poetic strain the falls of Niagara, with 
 its boiling torrents and furious, rolling rapids, he sketched 
 with exciting vigor the dark, deep, and rapid rivers, 
 overhung by the perpendicular granite rock, looking 
 down upon the current below. It seemed as though na 
 ture in some of her convulsions had split those mighty 
 rocks in twain to make a passage for the streams. His 
 description of a thunder-storm was sublimely grand. 
 The Chief brought his lecture to a close by referring 
 again to the cultivation of the soil as necessary to the ex 
 istence of man, and concluded by a beautiful contrast be 
 tween the wants of the body and those of the mind. At 
 the close of the lecture an individual in the body of the 
 hall asked the Chief as to the best period of the year for 
 emigration to America, to which he replied that the lat 
 ter end of the summer, or the autumn, was the most 
 suitable. Before the audience separated, the Chief sang 
 one of his native songs, in which was exhibited a good 
 knowledge of music. The air was in a minor key, and 
 almost consequently of a melancholy nature." 
 
 I am now in Edinburgh, just arrived from Newcas 
 tle. I am still unwell, and I am expected to deliver a 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 333 
 
 temperance sermon by the Scottish Presbyterian Church 
 Society. I have so far received nothing but kindness. 
 may my friends in this and other countries be ever 
 blessed. 
 
CHAPTEE XXIII. 
 
 SCOTLAND. 
 
 I HAVE had no time to write down all the events of 
 my interesting sojourn in this most interesting country, 
 since I came here, for my time has been so well occupied. 
 Now I am about to leave it, and the people who have 
 been so kind to me. 
 
 " The metropolis of Scotland is situated in the northern 
 part of the County of Mid-Lothian, and is about two 
 miles distant from the Firth of Forth.* 1 Its length and 
 breadth are nearly equal, measuring about two miles in 
 either direction. In panoramic splendor, its site is 
 generally admitted to be unequalled by any capital in 
 Europe, and the prospect from the elevated points of the 
 city and neighborhood is of a singular beauty and 
 grandeur. The noble estuary of the Forth, expanding 
 
 * The precise geographical position of the centre of the cit>, is 
 66 67 20" north latitude, and 3 10 30" west longitude. 
 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 335 
 
 from River into Ocean ; the solitary grandeur of Arthur s 
 Seat ; the varied park and woodland scenery which en 
 rich the southward prospect ; the pastoral acclivities of 
 the neighboring Pentland Hills, and the more shadowy 
 splendors of the Lammermoors, the Ochils, and the 
 Grampians, form some of the features of a landscape 
 combining, in one vast expanse, the richest elements of 
 the beautiful and the sublime." 
 
 In Edinburgh there are warm hearts to be found for 
 me and my race, though the character of the people is 
 cold at first ; but the longer I have known them has 
 proved that they are not cold altogether. 
 
 Long time ago I read the history of these people, and 
 particularly the Highlanders, and my predilections for 
 this people before no doubt has had to do with the 
 present visit. 
 
 The Edinburgh Castle is a saucy-looking place. Old 
 fashioned fortifications and embankment rude. Houses 
 of the ancient order. There I saw a room very small 
 where dueen Mary lived, and where king James was born. 
 
 The most interesting to visitors now is the crown and 
 sceptre which for years have been lost, and now they are 
 before the gaze of this people. Made of gold. A man 
 
336 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 is stationed over or near it all the while to guard it and 
 show it to strangers. 
 
 Looking down from the castle the sight is most charm 
 ing. The panoramic view of the Forth before you and sails 
 which everywhere dot over the whole surface of the 
 water the country and towns the farms and the sur 
 rounding hills all in grand array. And in the midst of 
 this wild scenery, there, from that hill you can see the 
 column of granite erected to the memory of Sir W. Scott, 
 and that of Burns, Nelson, and King George the Fourth. 
 
 The old part of this city is an antique place, and 
 away below it is the " Holyrood Palace." On the left 
 is the new Hospital, and before you is the Royal Acade 
 my of fine arts. Church after church is in sight. 
 
 The hill on the east of this is a very good place to view 
 from. The names of Mr. John Dunlap, Dr. Gunn, the 
 Rev. Wm. Reid, Johnson, and my devoted and affection 
 ate A. Young, A. Harmour, and not forgetting my dear 
 friend and brother P. Sinclair and family. May Heaven 
 still smile on them. 
 
 My visit to Dundee was on many accounts the pleasant- 
 est. In delivering my lectures before the people I had 
 the Independent Church, and George Duncan, M. P. 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 337 
 
 presided at the first and the next time, one of the offi 
 cers of the town. A very interesting event for myself, 
 inasmuch as I think the people were gratified and looked 
 as though they were happy. The Rev. gentlemen of 
 this city all attended my lecture. I became acquainted 
 here with one Mr. J. Valentine, and his name is a guar 
 antee that he is a charming man. Dundee is a well- 
 located place, on the side of the Dee facing the sun. The 
 surrounding country looks as though no other people 
 could live here but the Scotch people. 
 
 In the summer it must be a lovely place. 
 
 While I was there I visted the celebrated astronomer, 
 Dr. Dick, who lives in Broughton Ferry, four miles below 
 Dundee, in a beautiful location facing the mouth of the 
 river, and surrounding hills. It was after dark when we 
 entered his house, and found telescopes pointing to every 
 window, small and great. And in his studio lay sheets 
 of paper and one of these half written on. His books all 
 arrayed around the room in a perfectly liter&iy style. 
 
 His person is a middle-sized man, leans forward and 
 not fleshy, face sharp, and a well-developed forehead, be 
 gins to walk rather infirm. He seems to be so happy. 
 
 Speak of America, his heart is full of gratitude to his 
 
 15 
 
338 EUKOPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 friends in New York, Philadelphia, and in different parts 
 of the country. He said he should like to visit the New 
 World if it was not for the voyage, and there he is tied 
 and his wife, so devotedly attached to him, that she has 
 to say where he should and where he should not go. As 
 we sat at tea I found myself contemplating the days of 
 my school-hours, when I read his books with avidity. 
 Now, here he is. This is the man who has travelled 
 with the circuit of the sun, and wandered in the realms 
 of the stars, collecting new beauties and new glories from 
 the grandest objects of heaven. 
 
 It is he who led me, my bewildered mind lost in the 
 magnitude of thought, that a God who made the worlds 
 
 to sing his praise was a God of Power. 
 
 
 When I asked him of his circumstances he replied, 
 
 " I have enough, for the time I may live." And may he 
 always have. 
 
 Perth is another well-situated town at the river Dee. 
 I had a meeting here and gave an address to about 3,000 
 people in the City Hall. That is, it will seat that num 
 ber but the crowd was so great I think there could not 
 have been less than 500 more, for it was literally 
 crowded. 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 339 
 
 I met some of the society of Friends here, and found 
 them well informed about America. The lord Provost 
 presided, the next time I visited Perth. I went up the 
 highest hill and viewed the country. Below us was the 
 river Dee, and before us were hills which began to as 
 sume a sackcloth-like appearance, and the frost on the 
 hills made their brows look gray. Then at some distance 
 a railroad car flew past in an opening plain, and went in. 
 one side of the hill and came cut whizzing on the other 
 side, red-hot, for it was nearly dark, and the streak of fire 
 was singularly conspicuous. 
 
 My Dr. Valentine, I shall often think of this place 
 after this. 
 
 All that I have seen of this country is delightful in 
 deed. The hills along towards the Highlands are re 
 markable few trees on them ; yet clothed with an un 
 derwood where grouse is hunted after the 12th of August. 
 
 My visits to Glasgow and Paisley were very interesting 
 to rne. On the Sabbath, the 1st of December, after a 
 fatigued labor of the past week, I had to speak in the 
 Parish Church to over 3,000 souls on the subject of 
 Temperance. On Saturday before, to a large audience in 
 Glasgow. 
 
340 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 I stayed in Paisley with one Dr. Richmond, and just 
 by is the oldest ruins of the place. The chapel where the 
 Monks and Jesuits used to live when they had their day 
 of glory and power. A very curious building it is too. 
 It was raining when I went around to see it. Wrote 
 my name, and sung a song in the "echo chamber." I vis 
 ited no one but a Mr Kerr, a shawl manufacturer, and 
 from him I received good expression of sympathy for the 
 good of my people. I went to a poor dilapidated hut 
 near the falls of this stream which rolls down in steps 
 just by. And here the Dr. informed me of the fact that 
 yon college-hut was the birth-place of Wilson the state 
 ornithologist of New York. 
 
 It is related in his biography that he expressed a wish, 
 when conversing upon the subject of death, that when 
 he died, he might be buried where the birds should come 
 and sing over his grave. And these sentiments are also 
 ours. 
 
 THE LAST WISH. 
 
 " In the wild forest shade, 
 Under some spreading oak, or waving pine, 
 Or old elm, festooned with the gadding vine, 
 Let me be laid. 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 341 
 
 In this dim lonely grot, 
 No foot intrusive, will disturb my dust, 
 But o er me, songs of the wild bird shall burst, 
 
 Cheering the spot. 
 
 Not amid charnel stones, 
 Or coffins dark, or thick with ancient mould, 
 With lattered pall, and fringe of cankered gold, 
 
 May rest my bones ; 
 
 But let the dewy rose, 
 The snow-drop and the violet lend perfume, 
 Above the spot, where in my grassy tomb, 
 
 I take repose. 
 
 Year after year 
 
 Within the silver birch-tree o er me hung, 
 The chirping wren shall rear her callow young ; 
 And the red robin, the green bough among, 
 
 Shall build her dwelling near ; 
 And ever at the purple dawning of the day, 
 The lark shall chant a pealing song above, 
 And the shrill quail, when eve grows dim and gray, 
 
 Shall pipe her hymn of love. 
 
 The black-bird and the thrush, 
 And golden oriole, shall flit around, 
 And waken with a mellow gush of sound, 
 
 The forests solemn hush. 
 
 Birds, from the distant sea, 
 Shall sometimes thither flock on snowy wing 
 And soar above my dust in airy rings, 
 
 Singing a dirge to me /" 
 
 On Monday morning I left for Glasgow, where I deliv- 
 
342 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 ered my last lecture before the Temperance society, at 
 the Rev. Dr. Robinson s Church. The weather being 
 very unfavorable, there was not much of an audience. 
 Glasgow is more like the American cities in point of 
 business, and the busy commerce which everywhere is 
 visible. 
 
 Tuesday again I was in Perth, when the lord Provost 
 presided over my meeting, and again cordially received. 
 
 For the last time and place I was in Edinburgh, Wed 
 nesday and Thursday. Thursday evening there was a 
 tea party, which was tendered to me by the ladies of 
 Glasgow at the dueen St. Hall. And there for the last 
 time 1 addressed with a heart too full, a people who had 
 won my best affections. Speeches were made by Dr. 
 Gunn, Rev. W. Reid, Mr. Dunlap and others. I could 
 have enjoyed the meeting if it had not been that it was 
 the last meeting. 
 
 I bid a final affectionate farewell to my friends. 
 Archibald Young, who had given me the ink-stand 
 which I have used constantly since, and other things for 
 my wife and son. May heaven bless the dear boy of his, 
 never will I forget his kindness. Now while I arn here 
 in the New World I can see how he appeared when 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 343 
 
 I last saw him. Peter Sinclair and family, they shall 
 have a warm corner of my aching heart. I hope to see 
 them again. Friday morning, 6th Dec., the morning 
 was clear and the air bracing. I left for Liverpool. Af 
 ter a ride of six hours I was then seated in the Waterloo 
 Hotel. 
 
 Saturday morning, 7th Dec. I went on board the fine 
 new steamer " Africa." The same gallant Captain Eyrie, 
 with whom I came over from America, was then the 
 Captain, and was about to leave again. 
 
 I might say a great deal about the sea or the storms 
 which I experienced in coming over ; but, I would just 
 say for the consolation of those who are obliged to go over 
 and are as often sea-sick as I was : " that a man is a 
 fool ivlw sails from Liverpool in the month of De 
 cember." 
 
 I have seen the storm in the lakes of the west, and in 
 the wild woods when trees lay down to die, the sweep 
 ing tornado uprooting the trees, when I have felt the 
 very earth trembling on account of fallen trees. But 
 this storm and gale in a sea is most terrific and 
 awful. 
 
 The waves knocked the bell from its iron frame, tore 
 
344 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 up the side-bulwarks, shattered the figure-head, and aw 
 fully scared some of our ladies. - 
 
 On the second Sabbath morning out I heard by the 
 sailors we had now met a gale, and that we did hardly 
 make three miles in an hour the waves soused, and 
 thumped the ship, and the waves would roll over the 
 deck, and rush front and aft, and the noise it would 
 make in the dark was awful. At this stage of affairs I 
 said to myself that I should crawl out of my berth and 
 dress myself to see the storm. I creeped up to the deck, 
 and the ship rolling on her sides plunging her paddle- 
 boxes into the water, and then again bouncing up and 
 then again down, the sea all in a foam ! the rigging of 
 the ship moaning and whistling. Just as I was getting 
 up the quarter-deck a sea struck the bow of the ship, and 
 then the water arose and in one grand sheet fell length 
 wise on the deck, and falling on me, which nearly struck 
 me from my hold. Perfectly drenched, salt in my mouth 
 and my eyes, snorting with it, I dabbled down to my 
 berth, perfectly willing to go down to the bottom any 
 time after that, and sick sick ah ! yes I was sick in 
 deed. 
 
 The sea in the time of a gale is the grandest sight 
 
EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 345 
 
 that my eyes ever beheld. Our noble steamer seems at 
 times a lion, and battled the giant waves, and at times 
 motionless would appear, trembling, stunned by the fury 
 of the waves. 
 
 I am now safely housed in the Irving House, and three 
 nights I have spent on my couch, and each night I have 
 awoke myself in giving my bedstead, a deadly grasp, as 
 I did to my berth while I was on the ocean. 
 
 I am now again in America, and thank the Great 
 Spirit for it. My friends are here, and how they came 
 all around me. The many questions I have been asked 
 about the Old World, how I liked it, and what I saw, 
 and to satisfy them I have given a short outline of my 
 journey. 
 
 I hope to go again and seethe far East, and if possible 
 to seek the footprints of the Saviour, who, as it is said, 
 came to earth to bless man. A land made memorable 
 by the acts of Him who gave the best laws for the gov 
 ernment of man. 
 
 I add here a welcome from a friend of mine in the city 
 of " Brotherly Love." 
 
 15* 
 
846 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 TO GEORGE COP WAY, OF THE JIB WAY NATION. 
 
 " Hail to thee, chief, from the far forest land ! 
 Hail to thee, prince, of the wild wood-land ! 
 From the sun-crowned hills of the glorious west, 
 Where wild winds billow Superior s breast, 
 Thou hast travelled o er broad Atlantic s foam, 
 Where sages of peace to their councils come ; 
 Thou hast trodden in halls of ancient glory 
 And traced the records of olden story ; 
 Thou hast seen grim relics of ruthless ire, 
 And tortures unknown at thy camping fire. 
 The war-fiend was worshipped by pale-faced men, 
 As well as by braves in the forest glen ; 
 And torrents of heart-warm, human blood 
 Have poured over Europe, as wasting flood. 
 But the worship and honor of carnage is past, 
 Earth s glorious jubilee soundeth at last ; 
 Child of the forest ! to thee it is given 
 To speak in rich cadence the message of heaven ; 
 And bid the paleface with the Indian combine 
 The oak of our country with olive to twine ; 
 To bid the wild war-notes forever be still, 
 While angels are chanting, " On earth good will, 
 And glory to God in the highest above, 
 The Father of all. the fountain of love." 
 
 PHILADELPHIA. A. W. H. 
 
J. C. RIKER, 
 PUBLISHER AND BOOKSELLER, 
 
 129 FULTON-STREET, NEW-YORK, 
 
 HAS RECENTLY ISSUED THE FOLLOWING 
 
 NEW WORKS AND NEW EDITIONS. 
 
 THE GOVERNESS ; or the EDUCATION OF CIRCUM 
 STANCES. 12mo., cloth. 75 cts. 
 
 " One person is more, and another less, the creature of circum 
 stances, but no one is altogether independent of them." 
 
 KATHERINE DOUGLASS; or, PRINCIPLE DEVE 
 LOPED. By S. SELBY COPPARD. 12ino., clo. 75 cts. 
 
 " This story is a domestic one, and charmingly written." 
 
 AMY HARRINGTON; or, A SISTER S LOVE. By the 
 author of the CURATE OF LINWOOD, etc. 12mo., clo. 
 75 cents. 
 
 " If other love wound, this falleth soft 
 On the tired heart, like evening dew ; 
 In life and in death, in sorrow and joy, 
 A sister s love ever is true." 
 
J. C. RIKEKS Recent Publication*. 
 
 THE LIFE OF SILAS TALBOT, Commodore in 
 the United States Navy. By HENRY T. TUCKERMAN. 
 18mo., cloth. 38 cts. 
 
 "Mr. Tuckerman has rendered an excellent service to our 
 historical literature, by the publication of this pleasant and well 
 written volume." 
 
 THE ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. By HENRY T. 
 TUCKERMAN. 12mo. 5 cloth. $1. 
 
 " This is a new edition of a beautiful and popular work, written 
 with all the author s grace and richness of style and clearness of 
 thought and description." Boston Courier. 
 
 THE EMPEROR JULIAN and His GENERATION. 
 By Dr. NEANDER. 12mo., clo. 75 cts. 
 
 " It takes in the entire range of the history of the Christian 
 Church as well as the personal history of the Emperor." Commer 
 cial Advertiser. 
 
 J. C. RI K E R, 
 
 HAS IN PRESS AND WILL SHORTLY PUBLISH : 
 
 STUDIES AND STORIES, from Chronicle and His 
 tory. By MRS. HALL and MRS. FORSTER. Freely 
 Illustrated. 
 
 HERBERT TRACY ; or the TRIALS OP MERCANTILE 
 LIFE and the MORALITY OF TRADE. By " A COUNT 
 ING-HOUSE MAN." Designed for Young Men. 
 
LOAN DEPT. 
 
 Ren 
 
 LD 21A-40W-4/63 
 (D6471slO)4/bB 
 
 General Library . 
 University of California 
 
 Berkeley 
 
0)57^14303 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY