HAWAII 
 
 PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 
HAWAII 
 
 PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 By 
 WILLIAM R. CASTLE, JR, 
 
 M 
 
 Author of "The Green Vase" 
 
 With Illustrations 
 And A Map 
 
 NEW YORK 
 
 DODD, MEAD AND COMPANY 
 
 1913 
 
Copyright, 1918, bt 
 DODD, MEAD AND COMPANY 
 
 Published March, 1913 
 
 
Wo 
 
 MY FATHER 
 
 Lifelong friend of the Hawaiian People ; 
 
 foremost among those who have laboured 
 
 for the upbuilding of the Islands — 
 
 his unselfish devotion is the 
 
 inspiration of his 
 
 children 
 
 262629 
 
PREFACE 
 
 This book has a double purpose : to tell those who 
 stay at home something about Hawaii, the young- 
 est of American Territories ; and to help those who 
 are going there to plan their trip intelligently. 
 Baedeker has not yet extended his labours to the 
 Pacific Islands, and no guidebook is available for 
 the traveller. Many books have been written about 
 special phases of Hawaii — its history or its com- 
 merce or its industry — but none has attempted to 
 give concisely a survey of its history, its present 
 conditions, and its natural beauty. This book, 
 therefore, falls naturally into two divisions, the 
 first part explanatory, the second, as well as may 
 be, descriptive. 
 
 The information it contains has been gathered 
 from most diverse sources, books, pamphlets, and 
 even railroad folders, the whole checked by my 
 own personal knowledge. The facts, I am sure, 
 are accurate. The descriptions are largely from 
 my own observations, and I have tried not to fall 
 into the error of exaggeration so common in books 
 of this kind. 
 
 The very comprehensiveness of the book has 
 made it difficult to write. It would have been easy 
 to devote all the space to discussion of industrial 
 conditions, or of the Hawaiian people, or of the 
 Volcano, but this would have been to write an essay 
 
 vii 
 
viii PREFACE 
 
 for specialists. It would have been still easier 
 to tell of my own boyhood experiences, of thrill- 
 ing climbs over the mountains in search of land- 
 shells, of amusing experiences on the funny little 
 old inter-island boats, but this would have resulted 
 only in another "Diary," this time of a quite 
 ordinary boy. I have tried, however, to keep my- 
 self in mind in so far as to tell things as I myself 
 have seen them, expressing so far as possible in 
 the descriptions my own feelings about the scenes 
 described. And I hope the book may do something 
 toward stirring in others an interest in Hawaii, an 
 interest which, with fuller knowledge, must issue 
 in something of the affection for the Islands that 
 is felt by all of us who have there spent our 
 childhood days. X- 
 
 I have drawn freely on Dr. W. J^. Alexander's 
 excellent book, " A Brief History of the Hawaiian 
 People," and on Mr. C. W. Baldwin's clear and 
 accurate " Geography of the Hawaiian Islands," 
 and to the authors of both these books I want to 
 express my thanks for the cordial permission they 
 have given me to make use of the result of their 
 study. Most of all I must thank my father, who 
 has read my manuscript and who, from his almost 
 inexhaustible knowledge of Hawaiian affairs, has 
 made suggestions without which this book would 
 hardly have been possible. 
 
 W. R. Castle, Jb. 
 

 CONTENTS 
 
 
 CHAPTER 
 
 PAGX 
 
 I 
 
 Introduction .... 
 
 1 
 
 II 
 
 The Hawaiian People . 
 
 . 13 
 
 III 
 
 History to 1898 
 
 . 30 
 
 IV 
 
 Hawaii as a Territory . 
 
 . 53 
 
 /v 
 
 Commerce and Industry 
 
 . 68 
 
 VI 
 
 Honolulu .... 
 
 84 
 
 VII 
 
 Oahu . 
 
 
 . 109 
 
 VIII 
 
 Kauai 
 
 
 131 
 
 IX 
 
 MOLOKAI AND MaUI 
 
 
 . 144 
 
 X 
 
 Hawaii 
 
 
 164 
 
 XI 
 
 The Volcanoes 
 
 
 . 193 
 
 XII 
 
 Island Life 
 
 
 . 216 
 
 
 Appendix . 
 
 
 231 
 
 
 Index of Places 
 
 
 . 239 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 Statue of Kamehameha I 
 
 Hawaiian grass house, Kona, 
 Hawaii . . . . 
 
 Spearing fish at Napoopoo, 
 Hawaii .... 
 
 Hawaiian surf-riding . 
 
 Ascending Pali road six miles 
 N. E. of Honolulu . 
 
 Executive Building, formerly 
 the Royal Palace, Honolulu 
 
 " Washington Place," resi- 
 dence of Queen Liliuoka- 
 lani, Honolulu . 
 
 Diamond Head and Waikiki 
 from Punch Bowl 
 
 Sugar cane in flower; will 
 be ripe and ready to grind 
 in from six to eight weeks 
 
 Oahu sugar mill, near Hono- 
 lulu, cane ready for grind- 
 ing 
 
 Pineapple plantation, Wa- 
 hiawa, Oahu 
 
 View of Port of Honolulu and 
 Harbour ; Nuuanu Valley 
 behind .... 
 
 Frontispiece 
 
 Facing page 8 
 
 16 
 26 
 
 34 
 
 46 
 
 56 
 62 
 
 70 
 
 76 
 
 82 
 
 90 
 
xii ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 Banyan tree and Royal 
 
 Palms, Honolulu . . Facing page 104 
 
 Oahu College grounds, show- 
 ing Royal Palm Avenue and 
 one of the school buildings " " 112 
 
 Hilo Bay and town, Mauna 
 Kea, 14,000 feet high, in 
 the background ... « « 12g 
 
 Waianae Mountains across 
 
 rice field, Oahu ... « « 134 
 
 Waimea River and Valley, 
 
 Kauai .... « « 140 
 
 Bridge over crack on floor of 
 
 crater .... « « I54 
 
 Scene at Onomea on east 
 
 coast of Hawaii . . « « y^Q 
 
 Visitors scorching postal 
 cards and letters in lava 
 in Kilauea communicating 
 with internal fires . . « « Ig^ 
 
 The rim of the crater of 
 
 Haleakala .... « « 196 
 
 Liquid lava in Halemaumau, 
 
 Kilauea .... « « 210 
 
 Hawaiian " pounding poi " . " " SI 8 
 
 Hawaiian lei and flower 
 
 sellers, Honolulu . . « « 226 
 
 Map Hawaii .... " " 230 
 
HAWAII 
 
 PAST AND PRESENT 
 
CHAPTER I 
 
 INTRODUCTION 
 
 At the time of their annexation to the United 
 States much was heard of the Hawaiian Islands 
 as the Key to the Pacific, a name which, unlike 
 most tags, seems to be a fairly accurate descrip- 
 tion. Situated between 19° and 23" north latitude 
 and between 154" 40' and 162° west longitude, 
 they are at the junction of the principal steamer 
 routes across the Pacific and indeed are the only 
 land of any extent within a radius of two thousand 
 miles. This situation gives them, inevitably, great 
 strategic and commercial importance. To the 
 north the nearest land is Alaska with the chai. 
 of the Aleutian Islands, 2,000 miles away; to the 
 east, the North American Continent, 2,000 miles ; 
 and to the west, the Philippine Islands, 4,500 
 miles. Honolulu is distant 2,100 miles from San 
 Francisco, 2,460 miles from Victoria, B. C, 4,700 
 from Manila, 3,400 from Yokohama, 3,810 from 
 Auckland, and 4,410 from Sydney. It is reached 
 from San Francisco and the Orient by ships of 
 the Pacific Mail S. S. Co., and of the Toyo Kisen 
 Kaisha of Japan ; from British Columbia and 
 Australia by steamers of the Canadian-Austra- 
 
2 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 Han Steamship Co. There are also local boats 
 running between the Islands and San Francisco. 
 As the steamers on all these lines have adequate 
 passenger accommodations and as the six-day pas- 
 sage from San Francisco is usually smooth, the 
 Islands are easily accessible, and, as their attrac- 
 tions become better known, will inevitably be more 
 and more the resort of tourists. 
 
 The Hawaiian group consists of twelve islands, 
 of which the principal, and indeed the only in- 
 habited, islands are, in order of their size : Hawaii, 
 Maui, Oahu, Kauai, Molokai, Lanai, Niihau, and 
 Kahoolawe. They were formed by lava poured 
 out from a fissure in the earth's crust which ex- 
 tended for about two thousand miles along the 
 bottom of the ocean. To the northwest these lava 
 mountains reached only to the surface of the 
 water, just appearing in Midway, Nekkar, Ocean, 
 and other islets and never forming important land 
 until Kauai, the most northwesterly of the Ha- 
 waiian group, was built far above sea level. On 
 this island the volcanic fires first went out and 
 so were successively extinguished on island after 
 island toward the southeast until Hawaii was 
 reached. This island is still in the process of 
 building. Erosion is therefore greatest on Kauai, 
 and, with the exception of parts of those islands 
 which have little or no water, least on Hawaii. All 
 the islands of the group were originally lofty and 
 
INTRODUCTION S 
 
 gently sloping mountains, but these have been 
 worn by streams on the leeward side into deep 
 ravines and valleys, and on the windward sides 
 have been literally cut away by rains and winds, 
 so that the mountains are now precipitous, rising 
 from the sea in sheer cliffs, hundreds and even 
 thousands of feet high. 
 
 Geologically the Islands are composed of two 
 kinds of lava rock, one completely fused and very 
 hard, the other only partly fused (tufa), which 
 was thrown out by the ancient volcanoes in masses 
 and in smaller particles. Tufa decomposes under 
 the action of erosion much more quickly than does 
 the solid lava, but this, after centuries of wear 
 and tear by the weather and of being broken by 
 the roots of plants that somehow find means of life 
 even on very recent lava flows, makes a far richer 
 soil. Where there is not too much rain it becomes 
 a deep red earth, the best on the Islands for agri- 
 cultural purposes except the sedimentary soil in 
 the valley bottoms and along the coast. The only 
 non-volcanic rock, a certain amount of sandstone 
 and of coral, is the result of the uplifting of 
 ancient reefs. 
 
 In climate the Hawaiian Islands are exception- 
 ally favoured. The northeast trade winds blow for 
 nine months in the year, and ocean currents, also 
 from the northeast, further moderate the tempera- 
 ture so that it averages 10° lower than in any 
 
4 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 other region in the same latitude, at sea level from 
 60** to 85°, with a mean of about 74°, and pro- 
 portionally lower as one ascends to higher eleva- 
 tions. There are no cyclones, and thunderstorms 
 are very rare. The rainfall is much greater on 
 the windward than on the lee sides of the Islands, 
 the average rainfall of Honolulu being, for ex- 
 ample, 35 inches, and of Hilo, 150 inches. In 
 some districts the average falls as low as two 
 inches, and in some rises as high as 300 inches. 
 This necessarily results in a much more luxuriant 
 vegetation on the windward slopes, wherever excess 
 of rain has not washed away the soil, but the 
 mountain forests extend well down the southern 
 and western slopes, and artesian wells, combined 
 with an excellent system of irrigation, permit culti- 
 vation in almost all parts. 
 
 The flora is varied and very beautiful. There 
 are, first, the indigenous plants, growing wild on 
 the mountains, among them many ornamental and 
 useful trees, such as the koa, or Hawaiian mahog- 
 any, which is extensively used for furniture, and 
 the ohia, which is very hard, takes a high polish, 
 and is used for furniture, floors, and panelling, as 
 well as for railroad ties and permanent fence- 
 posts. The koa is a wonderful golden brown in 
 colour, full of light and shadows, and exquisitely 
 grained. The ohia is darker, in texture more like 
 the teak-wood of the Orient. The second group 
 
INTRODUCTION 5 
 
 of plants are those which were introduced from 
 the south by early Hawaiian voyagers. Useful 
 plants they were, — cocoanuts, bananas, bread- 
 fruit, taro, sugar-cane, mulberries, and fibre 
 plants for the manufacture of mats, ropes, and 
 fish-nets. Of the third group are the plants now 
 growing wild but introduced more recently from 
 abroad, such as the guava, orange, mango, and 
 algaroba tree, which last forms almost impenetra- 
 able forests near the seacoast. Every effort is be- 
 ing made by both Federal and Territorial officials 
 toward intelligent conservation of already exist- 
 ing forests and toward reforestation. Many bar- 
 ren spaces have already been reclaimed with heavy 
 planting of algaroba, eucalyptus, ironwood, and 
 other trees. 
 
 In animal life the Islands are not so rich. At 
 the time of their discovery dogs, hogs, mice, and 
 domestic fowls, beside wild fowls and migratory 
 birds, were the only animals. Of reptiles there 
 were only a few harmless lizards. Snakes were 
 and are unknown. There were about seventy 
 varieties of wild birds, however, many of which, 
 owing to the recession of the forests, have become 
 extinct. Insects, including the mosquito (the 
 malarial mosquito is fortunately unknown), have 
 since been brought in, and, with the careless intro- 
 duction of foreign plants, certain blights, for 
 which the natural enemies have been discovered 
 
6 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 in time to prevent any wholesale destruction of 
 vegetation. The most distinctive form of animal 
 life, and the only one peculiar to the Islands, is 
 the land-shells (achatinella), of which there are 
 341 species. These shells grow on the leaves of 
 forest trees, and are often exquisite in colouring. 
 
 The industries, of which sugar is far in the lead, 
 are discussed in another chapter. 
 
 The population of the islands has fluctuated 
 greatly, decreasing from perhaps 250,000 in 1778 
 to 57,985 in 1878, since when it has steadily in- 
 creased until, by the census of 1910, it was found 
 to be 191,909. Of this number only 26,041 were 
 of pure Hawaiian blood, with 12,606 of mixed 
 Hawaiian and Caucasian or Asiatic blood. Of the 
 remainder, 22,303 were Portuguese, 4,890 Porto 
 Rican, 1,990 Spanish, 14,867 other Caucasian 
 (principally American), 21,674 Chinese, 70,674 
 Japanese, 4,533 Korean, and 3,431 of different or 
 mixed races. The native-born population num- 
 bered 98,157 and the foreign-born 93,752. From 
 this table it is clear that the increase of popula- 
 tion common to all the islands of the group has 
 been principally due to the importation of labour- 
 ers, since the Portuguese and Porto Ricans as well 
 as the Orientals have been introduced to work on 
 the plantations. Of these the Portuguese generally 
 turn at last to independent agricultural pursuits, 
 settle permanently in the country, and become 
 
INTRODUCTION 7 
 
 good citizens. Many of the Orientals also become 
 merchants or lease land to raise fruit or vegetables 
 on their own account, but the great majority are 
 a floating population who have left home only 
 temporarily to earn money. An encouraging 
 sign, except in one respect, is the steady growth 
 of the native-born population. During 1911 the 
 birth rate among all races except the Hawaiian 
 was materially in excess of the death rate. But 
 among pure Hawaiians there were, sadly enough, 
 1,010 deaths as against only 592 births, a decrease 
 only partly compensated by the fact that of part- 
 Hawaiians there were 467 births as against 172 
 deaths. The race, as a pure race, must inevitably 
 disappear, but it may well be that the traces of 
 Hawaiian blood in the future inhabitants of the 
 Territory will add dignity and grace and gentle- 
 ness. This seems now to be the case among those 
 of mixed Hawaiian and Oriental lineage, and some- 
 times, especially among the women, is it true of 
 the children of Hawaiians and Caucasians. The 
 population of the Islands must always be very 
 cosmopolitan, but this does not mean that they 
 cannot be a strong outpost of American civilisa- 
 tion, since the climate, unlike that of the Philip- 
 pines, for example, is wholly favourable to the 
 growth of a preponderantly Caucasian popula- 
 tion. 
 
 This very mixture of races makes the Islands, 
 
8 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 from the point of view of the tourist, far more 
 interesting than they would otherwise be. Most 
 of the primitive Hawaiian life has disappeared 
 for ever, and the people themselves are, of neces- 
 sity, more sophisticated in outlook. They have, 
 however, kept their simplicity of manner and with 
 it many of the customs so deeply rooted in their 
 nature. Their love of colour is ineradicable. Uni- 
 versally they wear wreaths or " leis " of flowers 
 or of feathers. The women dress in the " holoku," 
 a kind of Mother Hubbard gown that is often of 
 bright red or blue or purple. Still, especially in 
 the country districts, the men sit in front of their 
 houses pounding " poi," the national dish. Some- 
 times a cavalcade of riders passes, the women 
 astride, wearing " pads," which are strands of 
 brilliant cloth wound around the legs and stream- 
 ing out behind the horses like wings. The fisher- 
 men cling to the picturesque but heavy dug-out 
 canoe with its huge outrigger of lighter wood. 
 Still, when a chief dies, the ancient wailing makes 
 nights and days tragically musical. And when 
 one does not see the Hawaiians themselves there 
 are the Chinese and Japanese and Koreans to make 
 one realise that Honolulu is also a gateway to the 
 Orient. In the city are lines of deep, dark shops 
 where Chinamen sit stolidly on carved teak-wood 
 stools before their queer baskets and rows of 
 lacquered boxes and rolls of silk; noisy corners 
 

 O 
 
 eg 
 as 
 
INTRODUCTION 9 
 
 where voluble Japanese congregate to bargain and 
 to discuss excitedly all sorts of profound or trivial 
 questions. Through the streets trudge the Orien- 
 tal market-gardeners, their wares displayed in two 
 flat, round, open baskets suspended from each end 
 of a long pole — lettuce and purple eggplant and 
 white, twisted lotus roots, or little tins of the scarlet 
 strawberries that fruit the whole year round. Or 
 on the plantations one sees them — these sturdy 
 men of the East — cutting the cane with long, keen 
 knives and loading it on little cars to be carried 
 to the mill; or in the mill itself, stripped to the 
 waist, shovelling the warm raw sugar into sacks; 
 or, after work is over, playing the hose on each 
 other, quite naked, before their cottages in the cool 
 of the day. Even the Caucasians, the Americans 
 and English and Germans, are obviously the deni- 
 zens of another land. Their white linen suits and 
 muslin dresses, their skins tanned with the tropical 
 sun, the very freedom of their motions, differen- 
 tiate them from their brothers and sisters in the 
 north. But here there is no suggestion of illness, 
 as in so many tropical countries. There is no 
 fever in the clean trade winds. They are as sturdy 
 physically as ever their fathers and mothers were 
 at home. Their children do not have to be sent 
 away like the children of those who are expatriated 
 to India, but grow up as strong as the children 
 of the home land. All this makes them not restless 
 
10 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 sojourners in a foreign country, but rather adven- 
 turers who have found a new home and broader 
 opportunity. 
 
 / Hawaii is a land of law and order. Different 
 / as it may be in its outward aspects, one feels it 
 to be essentially an outpost and a distant centre 
 of American civilisation. Partly consciously, 
 partly unconsciously, the missionaries saw to 
 that. English is the official language, even though 
 in the courts and in the legislature speeches are 
 by courtesy translated into Hawaiian. The 
 schools are conducted in English. American enter- 
 prise has built up the country, although much 
 British and German capital is also invested. The 
 Hawaiian people themselves have so absorbed the 
 essential ideals of America that one feels the coun- 
 try, with all its superficially un-American traits, 
 to rest on a thoroughly American foundation. The 
 complexity of races gives a picturesqueness that 
 is utterly absent from a blatant Western town. 
 There is all the vigour of young American life, but 
 with an added grace and stability brought about 
 through contact with other more conservative peo- 
 ples. The Islands give an admirable example of 
 colonisation which has been able to inspire with 
 its own ideals, its own strength, while it has not 
 imposed such slavish following of externals as 
 would destroy sense of individuality and as would 
 cause irritation through forcing an alien race to 
 
\ 
 
 INTRODUCTION 11 
 
 abandon customs that are not incompatible with 
 progress. 
 
 Every American interested in the achievements 
 of his own country ought to see this youngest Ter- 
 ritory, since here, better than anywhere else, can 
 he appreciate the assimilative and uplifting power 
 of the best American traditions. It is, moreover, 
 an older civilisation than that of California, more 
 suggestive of the Atlantic seaboard than of the 
 Pacific. And this is natural, since the first settlers, 
 the missionaries, came from the Eastern States 
 and came, moreover, not in a spirit of gain and 
 of conquest, but for the express purpose of giving 
 to a new land the best that they had known in an 
 old one. They held fast to their own ideals, but 
 were fortunately able to see that there might be 
 other and different ideals which could exist side 
 by side with theirs. It is true that they destroyed 
 much that was picturesque. They insisted, for 
 example, on trousers and skirts as a necessary 
 adjunct of Christianity, but skirts and trousers, 
 whether considered as insignia of Christianity or 
 of decency, seem inevitably to follow in the wake 
 of civilisation. Beyond this, however, beyond 
 Christianising and educating, the missionaries 
 were willing to admit that God made the climate 
 and that neither tropical customs nor tropical 
 architecture need conform strictly to those of 
 New England. For a hundred years the predomi- 
 
12 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 nant influence has been American, and it is an 
 influence which has become the motive power of 
 the land, so that we have really, to-day, a bit of 
 America that is no less American because it holds 
 as surface decoration some of the colour and some 
 of the strangeness of other lands. 
 
 Add to all this, which might be called the intel- 
 lectual interest of the place, a climate always mild, 
 but never cruelly hot, such physical traits as su- 
 perb mountains glowing with tropical colour, that 
 spring straight from the shining sea, a varied and 
 a beautiful flora, the greatest active volcanoes in 
 the world, and there seems truth in the other 
 name that has long been given the Islands, "The 
 Paradise of the Pacific." 
 
CHAPTER II 
 
 THE HAWAHAN PEOPLE 
 
 Early Hawaiian history is entirely legendary. 
 There was no written language, although certain 
 crude outline pictures and characters, apparently 
 depicting historical events, have recently been 
 found. These, however, have not yet been deci- 
 phered. The history, therefore, can be traced only 
 through ancient " meles " or songs, poems without 
 rhyme or metre, but strictly accented and often 
 several hundred lines in length, which were handed 
 down orally for many generations. Every high 
 chief had in his retinue professional bards who, 
 like the minstrels of England, kept alive the tradi- 
 tions of wars and of heroes and who, as well, 
 chanted love songs and dirges and composed poems 
 in honour of the chief. 
 
 The Islands were settled as early as 500 a. d., 
 a fact proved by the discovery of human bones 
 under ancient lava and coral beds. The Hawaiian 
 people are clearly of the Polynesian race, all 
 branches of which can almost certainly be traced 
 back to the Island of Savaii in the Samoan group. 
 The Hawaiian language is but one dialect of the 
 Polynesian tongue. Indeed, so similar are these 
 
 13 
 
14 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 dialects that an intelligent man, well versed in 
 Hawaiian, can understand almost everything 
 said by a Maori of New Zealand. Not only 
 the people, moreover, but the animals and plants 
 in Hawaii, are related to the islands of the south- 
 ern Pacific. This means that the early settlers 
 must have come from the south and southwest, 
 whereas the prevailing winds and currents are 
 from the northeast. Wonderful this passage must 
 have been in any case, across two thousand miles 
 of open ocean in canoes ; still more extraordinary 
 when the voyage was made against winds and 
 currents. 
 
 There were two periods of migration to Ha- 
 waii, but of the first there are few legends, although 
 to it are ascribed certain temples and the great 
 fish ponds along the coast of Molokai. In the 
 eleventh or twelfth century intercourse with the 
 south was renewed and in the songs are recorded 
 many voyages both to and from Tahiti or Samoa, 
 the voyagers travelling in fleets of canoes and 
 steering by the stars. The canoes were probably 
 built of planks, decked over, and large enough to 
 carry a certain amount of live stock. For some 
 unknown reason the period of this intercourse was 
 very short. During the next five hundred years 
 there are no legends of distant voyages, and ideas 
 of any country beyond the Hawaiian group became 
 indistinct. This time of isolation brought about, 
 
THE HAWAIIAN PEOPLE 15 
 
 naturally, fixed national customs and a very defi- 
 nite and individual national religion. 
 
 In ancient times the people were divided into 
 three distinct classes, the nobility, the priests and 
 sorcerers, and the common people, and between 
 these classes were absolute and unalterable lines 
 of demarcation. The chiefs, or " alii," were sup- 
 posed to be descended from the gods and their 
 office was, therefore, religious as well as political. 
 So sacred were the highest chiefs considered that 
 when they walked about the people all had to pros- 
 trate themselves. The courts comprised personal 
 attendants of the chief, — men of high rank only 
 on the father's side, — priests, diviners, story- 
 tellers, and dancers, who were trained to the art 
 from infancy. The chief owned all the land and 
 parcelled it out among the nobility, who, in turn, 
 distributed it among the common people. As often 
 as a chief died the land was redistributed. It was 
 the feudal system in its most literal and oppres- 
 sive form, the only check on the power of the nobles 
 being that the people were not fixed to the soil, but 
 might move from place to place at will, thereby 
 entering the service of some other chief. 
 
 The priests, or " kahunas," were also a heredi- 
 tary order exercising great power, not only be- 
 cause they were the medium of communication with 
 the gods, but because they, only, knew anything of 
 astronomy and medicine. The lower ranks of 
 
16 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 priests were sorcerers, able to pray people to 
 death — one of the few ancient beliefs still held 
 by many Hawaiians. As to the religion itself, 
 four great gods were worshipped in different ways 
 by all Polynesians. According to the Hawaiian 
 interpretation, which does not differ materially 
 from others, the most powerful of these gods was 
 Kane, the creator of the world. He with his 
 brother Kanaloa once lived on the Island of Ha- 
 waii, where they made miraculously many of the 
 springs ; they also introduced the banana and other 
 useful trees. Ku was a cruel god, delighting in 
 suffering and human sacrifice. Lono, of a slightly 
 lower rank, controlled the rains and had his own 
 particular order of priests. In addition to these 
 highest gods, all the forces of nature were deified ; 
 the air, the rocks, the trees, were the expression 
 of invisible beings to whom reverence was due and 
 who must at all times be propitiated. There were 
 also gods of different localities, gods of different 
 professions, gods living in sharks and lizards and 
 owls. Most powerful among the minor deities, as 
 might be expected in a volcanic country, was Pele, 
 the goddess of fire. Near the volcanoes on Hawaii 
 she was most feared, and constant propitiation 
 was therefore necessary. She, with her sisters and 
 her brother, lived in the volcano ; " The roaring 
 of the furnaces and the crackling of the flames 
 were the music of their dance and the red fiery 
 
eg 
 
 O 
 O 
 Ph 
 O 
 
 o 
 
 Oh 
 
 c3 
 
 a 
 Ph 
 
THE HAWAIIAN PEOPLE 17 
 
 surge was the surf in which they played." * There 
 were malignant and friendly elves in the woods ; 
 there were demigods of every kind; there were 
 deified ancestors. Not an act of daily life could 
 be performed without reference to one or more of 
 these divine beings. It was this far-reaching super- 
 stition that gave rise to the tabu system, one of 
 the most ^aborate devices of any heathen race. 
 
 This system was made up of minute regulations, 
 infringement of any one of which was considered 
 both as a sin against the gods and as a political 
 offence, since the office of the chiefs was religious 
 as well as seciilar. The following are a very 
 few of these tabus, which are enough to indi- 
 cate their general character: Men and women 
 were compelled to eat in separate houses and 
 women were not allowed to eat with men or 
 to enter men's eating-houses on pain of death. 
 For women, also, certain food, such as bananas, 
 cocoanuts, and pork, was forbidden. A com- 
 moner was prohibited on pain of death from 
 crossing the shadow of a chief — a law which must 
 have been difficult to obey in the early morning or 
 late afternoon. Certain nights of the month were 
 tabu — the king spent the time in the temple, which 
 was closed to all other persons, nor during those 
 nights could women step into canoes. At certain 
 tabu periods no sound could be heard, no fire could 
 •Ellis: ** Tour of Hawaii.'* 
 
18 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 be lighted ; dogs were muzzled and fowls tied up 
 in calabashes. For four days after the dedication 
 of a temple there could be no fishing, no bathing, 
 no pounding of poi, no work of any kind in the 
 locality. 
 
 All this system was elaborated by the priests 
 on the basis of tradition and was enforced by the 
 chiefs. Connected with it was an equally com- 
 plicated religious ritual. The more important 
 temples consisted of great stone platforms sur- 
 rounded by thick stone walls. The interior was 
 often terraced and occasionally there was an 
 inner court in which stood the principal idol. In 
 the centre of the main court was the oracle, an 
 obelisk of wicker work, within which the priest 
 stood when acting as intermediary with the gods. 
 In this court also were sacred houses in which the 
 king and priests lived during periods of tabu. 
 On the outer walls of the temple stood innumerable 
 hideous images, probably intended as human scare- 
 crows to frighten away the over-inquisitive. In 
 addition to the temples were houses of refuge, to 
 which criminals of any grade could flee and receive 
 protection until the time of purification was 
 passed, when they could go out under the care of 
 the gods. The idols, after having certain cere- 
 monies performed over them, became representa- 
 tives of the gods and were reputed to have definite 
 powers imparted by their respective deities. 
 
THE HAWAIIAN PEOPLE 19 
 
 Every family, moreover, had its private idol, the 
 power of which was very limited as compared with 
 that of the temple idols. The prayers composing 
 the temple ritual were, like the songs, handed 
 down orally through many generations. They 
 were in reality charms rather than prayers, and 
 had to be recited accurately to be effective, — a 
 very difficult task, since they were so long that they 
 often took hours to repeat and were in an ancient 
 dialect not much more understood by the common 
 people than in Russia is the old Slavonic tongue 
 of the Orthodox ritual. Human sacrifice, the su- 
 preme act of worship, was reserved for the most 
 solemn occasions only, such as the dedication of 
 a temple, the funeral rites of a chief, or the launch- 
 ing of a war canoe. The victims, who were se- 
 cretly slain by the Mu, the official executioner, 
 were either prisoners of war or men who had in- 
 fringed the tabu. Women, being inferior and 
 therefore not worthy to be offered to the gods, 
 were, in this instance at least, safe. 
 
 The common people, who were hardly more than 
 serfs, had little to make life happy unless they 
 were fortunate enough to be attached to a benevo- 
 lent chief. All were liable to military service, and 
 wars, after the beginning of the fifteenth century, 
 were nearly continuous. Weapons consisted of 
 long and short spears, daggers, clubs, and slings. 
 There were no shields, but trained warriors be- 
 
20 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 came very expert in warding off attack. Van- 
 couver says that in a sham battle he saw " six 
 spears cast at once at Kamehameha I, of which 
 he caught three, parried two, and avoided the sixth 
 by a quick movement of the body." After a battle 
 it was customary to give no quarter to the defeated 
 enemy. In spite of the wars, however, much time 
 was of necessity given to peaceful pursuits. As 
 there was no metal, tools were made of stone, or 
 sharks' teeth, or wood, yet with these rude imple- 
 ments the people carried on extensive agricultural 
 works, terraced the land when necessary, built irri- 
 gation ditches and tunnels, and constructed fields 
 for the growing of taro. This was their principal 
 crop, as it was, and is, the staple food. The best 
 of it, and indeed the larger proportion, grows in 
 fields which must be covered with water to the 
 depth of a few inches and which must, therefore, be 
 very carefully laid out. The root is boiled or 
 steamed until soft, pounded with stone pestles into 
 a paste, mixed with water, and allowed slightly to 
 ferment. This is poi, the national food, very 
 healthful, and, to those who are accustomed to it, 
 very good. (It may be noted that the glutinous 
 qualities are such that it is used also as a paste 
 in hanging wallpaper.) In addition to taro, the 
 ancient Hawaiians cultivated sweet potatoes, yams, 
 and bananas. Of animal food they had only pork. 
 -Fishing was, therefore, a most important industry. 
 
THE HAWAIIAN PEOPLE 21 
 
 and the fishermen, who formed a class by them- 
 selves, were expert in the use of hook and line, 
 net, and spear. Fish, too, were preserved in huge 
 fish ponds, which were made by building rock walls, 
 sometimes a mile or more in length, in rude semi- 
 circles into the sea, each end resting on the shore. 
 These walls were built close enough to prevent the 
 fish from escaping, while the tide water could still 
 pass through them. Some of these fish ponds are 
 still in use, but the most interesting are the ancient 
 ones, now, owing to the subsidence of the land, 
 many feet under water, which one sees from the 
 hills of Molokai. Both fish and vegetables were 
 prepared in underground ovens. They - were 
 wrapped in leaves and laid on heated stones ; water 
 was then poured into the cavity and the whole 
 covered, the food being cooked by the steam. 
 
 Houses, varying in size according to the rank 
 of the owner, consisted of rough wooden frames, 
 tied together, and thatched over with grass or ti 
 leaves. The doors were low and narrow and there 
 were usually no windows. There was little or no 
 attempt at ornamentation. To some extent the 
 same style of house is used at the present day, 
 and, like the peasant cottage of Brittany, seems 
 the real expression of the land and of the native 
 character. As one finds them occasionally on the 
 southwest coast of the Island of Hawaii, nothing 
 could be lovelier than one of these gray-brown huts, 
 
22 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 with tapering cocoanuts at one side, a great mass 
 of vivid green banana trees on the other, and be- 
 hind, the red foothills. Civilisation seems to slip 
 away and one is conscious only of the old man 
 and the old woman sitting cross-legged in the 
 sun, busy with the same primitive tasks that oc- 
 cupied their ancestors hundreds of years ago. For 
 furniture they had only mats, those of finer quality 
 spread over the sleeping-platform at the end of 
 the room; calabashes and water bottles made of 
 gourds, which were sometimes decorated by burn- 
 ing ; and bowls and platters of polished wood. At 
 night they burned kukui nuts (Aleuritis moluc- 
 cana) for light. Their clothing was made of kapa, 
 or, as it is usually called, tapa, a kind of paper 
 cloth manufactured by the women from the bark 
 of certain trees. This kapa was of different 
 grades, some as heavy as leather, some as fine as 
 linen.* The women wrapped strips of it about 
 three feet wide around the waist, and the men used 
 it as a " malo " or loin cloth. It was also some- 
 times worn as a mantle by both men and women. 
 This simplicity of dress was more than compen- 
 sated by the national love of ornament. Both men 
 and women wore wreaths of flowers or of bright- 
 coloured feathers, or strings of orange-coloured * 
 
 *I saw recently in London a book containing over a hundred 
 specimens of this tapa, brought to England by Captain Cook's 
 Expedition. 
 
THE HAWAIIAN PEOPLE 28 
 
 pandanus fruit on head and neck. The chiefs wore 
 also hooks of walrus ivory suspended from the 
 neck on braids of human hair. No costume could 
 have been, after all, more appropriate than this 
 brightly-dyed kapa and these brilliant flowers 
 against the bronze skin, which seems in itself a 
 dress. 
 
 The Hawaiians were a sport-loving people. 
 Boxing, wrestling, foot racing, and bowling with 
 polished stone discs were among the favourite 
 amusements. Still to be seen, also, are the long 
 slides on steep hillsides, down which they darted 
 on wooden sleds. Swimming and diving were the 
 delight of all, chiefs and common people, and surf 
 riding remains to this day one of the favourite 
 sports. It is this surf riding, as popular now 
 \vith foreigners as with the natives, which makes 
 Waikiki, near Honolulu, unique among bathing 
 resorts. The surf rider takes a long, smooth, pol- 
 ished board and with it swims out a half-mile or 
 so from the shore. He then lies flat on his board 
 and swims rapidly toward shore until a roller 
 catches the board and carries him on its crest to 
 the beach. Expert surf riders can raise them- 
 selves to a standing position after the wave takes 
 them and so ride, standing, for hundreds of yards, 
 or as far as the wave will carry them. The game 
 has all the excitement of tobogganing without the 
 eff^ort of dragging the toboggan uphill again, be- 
 
24 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 cause the swim out to sea, diving under the waves 
 as one goes, has almost the fun of the ride back. 
 For those who cannot swim the tamer sport of 
 surf riding in long Hawaiian canoes, the outrig- 
 gers of which make an upset next to impossible, is 
 a good substitute. 
 
 Like this sport, Hawaiian dancing and music 
 remain to recall the ancient times. The primitive 
 flute can be heard only as it is played by the pen- 
 sioners at Lunalilo Home, and even the ukulele, a 
 tiny guitar, is an improvement almost beyond rec- 
 ognition over the old " ukeke," although its use as 
 a metrical accompaniment is much the same. The 
 songs still have the old melody, with minor cadences 
 and a haunting sadness that sets them off from 
 all other songs. And when a chief dies the wailing 
 is still heard, — a piercing rhythmical lamentation 
 lasting for hours or even days within and around 
 the house of the dead. It can never be forgotten, 
 and somehow, after one has heard it, one can recog- 
 nise always, even in the love songs that are chanted 
 in the moonlight outside of hotel windows, a strain 
 of the same hopeless sadness which is so fully ex- 
 pressed in the dirges and which is perhaps a note 
 of the passing Hawaiian race. 
 
 For a passing race it surely is. No one knows 
 when the number of inhabitants was greatest, but 
 it is certain that the continuous wars which rav- 
 aged the country for two centuries and over before 
 
THE HAWAIIAN PEOPLE 25 
 
 its discovery by Captain Cook had already reduced 
 the population by a large proportion. Foreigners 
 — even Captain Cook's own crew — introduced dis- 
 eases unknown before. The people had never been 
 moral according to Anglo-Saxon standards, the 
 marriage tie being of the loosest, polygamy a com- 
 mon practice, and fidelity an unknown virtue. 
 This meant that the diseases of civilisation could 
 do their worst. What made the situation even 
 more deplorable was the almost complete lack of 
 medical knowledge. It is true that the uses of 
 certain herbs were understood, but sickness, ac- 
 cording to the common belief, was caused by evil 
 spirits and its cure was in sorcery. Relatives of 
 the sick man made offerings for him. If this did 
 not prove effective the sick man himself, whatever 
 his disease, was given a steam bath and then dipped 
 in the sea, or was made to eat pieces of squid. The 
 sorcerers, however, were more often employed to 
 make men sick than to relieve suffering, and so 
 absolute was the belief in evil spirits, so powerful 
 the imagination, that they were always successful. 
 A man who knew that a kahuna was praying him 
 to death promptly died. The wonder is, not that 
 the population declined, but that it did not decline 
 even more rapidly. 
 
 At the time of the discovery of the Islands the 
 native population numbered, according to Cook, 
 ,000, but on what he based his data is not 
 
26 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 known; 250,000 is probably nearer the truth. 
 To-day there are not 30,000 pure-blooded 
 Hawaiians, about 40,000 including the part-Ha- 
 waiians. The race, already decimated by war, 
 decreased rapidly under the scourge of measles, 
 smallpox, venereal diseases, and strong drink. 
 Now that there is adequate medical knowledge, and 
 with the protection given to the Hawaiians by the 
 better class of white people, the race might again 
 increase were it not for intermarriage with for- 
 eigners. So general is this intermarriage that, 
 although the number of those with Hawaiian blood 
 is greater with every census, the number of pure- 
 blooded natives proportionally decreases. It is 
 a question of only a few generations before the 
 Hawaiians, as a people, will be only a memory, just 
 as their language will soon be extinct as a pure 
 tongue. 
 
 \ And in many ways this disappearance of the 
 race is sad, for the Hawaiians are a people with 
 a past that is often noble. In spite of their weak- 
 nesses and their follies they are very lovable. The 
 best of them are physically admirable, tall, well- 
 formed, with high foreheads, good features, deep 
 chests, slender limbs. In colour they are some- 
 thing like the American Indian, although not as 
 red, and their high cheekbones and straight hair 
 accentuate the resemblance. There is nothing 
 about them to suggest the negro, and they them- 
 
• •«• .« 
 
 
 :t* 
 
 
 
 eg 
 
I 
 
THE HAWAIIAN PEOPLE ' 27 
 
 selves consider him as an inferior being. Their 
 manners are excellent, their motions graceful. 
 Among the higher ranks, of whom the Queen is 
 a good example, there is a courtliness of demeanour 
 which recalls the salons of the old European aris- 
 tocracy. They carry themselves well, walk firmly 
 and lightly. Nothing could be more physically 
 beautiful, more harmonious in line, than a Ha- 
 waiian fisherman, naked except for his loin cloth, 
 as he stands poised on a rock ready to cast his 
 net. He is classic in the moulding of his form, 
 in the perfection and symmetry of his muscular 
 development, insistently reminiscent of some Greek 
 bronze of an athlete stripped for the games. 
 
 The Hawaiians are also an intelligent people, so 
 that teaching them is a pleasure. Nor are they 
 merely imitative. They make good teachers in the 
 schools, good overseers on the plantations. They 
 never steal. They are honest and trustworthy. 
 They are affectionate and grateful for kindness. 
 Like children, however, they are emotional and 
 easily led, voting often, for example, against their 
 principles on the advice of some unscrupulous 
 agitator and keenly regretting afterwards what 
 they have done. They are now, as they always 
 have been, abnormally fond of games of chance, 
 and in the excitement of the moment will wager 
 everything they possess, which, fortunately for 
 them and unfortunately for " beasts of prey," is 
 
28 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 usually very little. Their most besetting sin is 
 what might be called moral laziness. On the 
 plantations, for instance, they make splendid 
 workmen, accomplishing in a day twice the amount 
 of hard labour that a Japanese is willing to do, 
 but when pay day comes they go home and, for- 
 getting to return in the morning, fish a little, sleep 
 and eat a great deal, until their money is ex- 
 hausted and their credit gone. Then, with perfect 
 cheerfulness, they go back to work. According 
 most satisfactorily with this habit is the ancient 
 custom, loyally adhered to even at present, of 
 dependence on a chief. The Queen has very many 
 who look to her for food and shelter because their 
 ancestors looked to her ancestors, and she, as loyal 
 to custom as they, supports them out of her 
 meagre resources. The same is true in greater or 
 less degree of all the remaining chiefs. 
 
 Except in the case of intermarriage with the 
 Chinese, the mixture of Hawaiian with foreign 
 blood does not usually result well. There are 
 notable exceptions of part-Hawaiians in important 
 public and private positions, but as a rule, among 
 the men at least, it seems to be the weak qualities 
 of both races which are exemplified in the children 
 of mixed marriages. As the Hawaiian blood be- 
 comes more and more diluted this may not be the 
 case, but as it is now it makes even sadder the 
 breaking up of the race, because too often in the 
 
THE HAWAIIAN PEOPLE 29 
 
 half-Hawaiian it is the moral weakness that will 
 be noted and imputed to the native blood, not the 
 physical strength; the love of gambling, not the 
 honesty; the vacillation, not the loyalty; the 
 trickiness, not the childlike simplicity. An eth- 
 nologist a few generations hence, in attempting to 
 reconstruct from the predominant characteristics 
 of their mongrel descendants a picture of the 
 ancient Hawaiian race, will make them a people 
 despicable and thoroughly degraded. And those 
 who have known them in their integrity, like chil- 
 dren faulty and volatile, but like children eager to 
 be taught and susceptible to every good influence, 
 will no longer be there to defend them. The man 
 who would see the remnants of a genial, kindly, 
 aff'ectionate race must see them now or never. 
 
CHAPTER III 
 
 HISTORY TO 1898 
 
 From the time of settlement to about the end of 
 the thirteenth century the Hawaiian Islands, di- 
 vided almost from the first into independent king- 
 doms, seem on the whole to have been peaceful. 
 From this time on, however, strife became more 
 and more general, and after 1450 a. d. there were 
 continual wars, which had the inevitable effect of 
 lowering standards, materially, as well as intel- 
 lectually and morally, and also of seriously de- 
 creasing the population. Many and barbarous 
 were the battles and, as no quarter was given the 
 conquered, whole districts were devastated and 
 depopulated. One chief after another, arrogant 
 and rapacious, led his brutal army from district 
 to district, from island to island. Sometimes a 
 chief gained control of a large part of the group, 
 only to lose what he had conquered through suc- 
 cessful rebellion during his own lifetime; surely, 
 so far as the establishment of a dynasty was con- 
 cerned, to lose it when, after his death, quarrels 
 broke out as to redistribution of land among the 
 competing nobles. In November, 1736, during one 
 of these ferocious and unnecessary civil wars, 
 
 30 
 
HISTORY TO 1898 31 
 
 Kamehameha I was born, but before his work of 
 uniting the country under one sovereign was be- 
 gun, the Islands were discovered by Captain Cook. 
 From old maps it is clear that the Spaniards had 
 known as early as the sixteenth century that there 
 was land somewhere in the vicinity of the Islands, 
 but the world had no information as to its exact 
 position and extent until Captain Cook, on a voy- 
 age of discovery to the northwest coast of America, 
 sighted the Island of Oahu on January 18th, 1778. 
 He saw soon afterwards the Islands of Niihau and 
 Kauai, and landed at Waimea Bay on the latter 
 island on the 20th. He then sailed to Niihau, 
 where he spent a week taking on provisions and 
 water, and trading. The general impression 
 among the natives seems to have been that Captain 
 Cook was a reincarnation of the god Lono, and 
 that his crew were supernatural beings. Runners, 
 who sailed in the swiftest canoes, and ran from 
 end to end of the successive islands, were sent to 
 carry to the different chiefs the news of these 
 strange arrivals. This is a translation of their 
 message : " The men are white ; their skin is loose 
 and folding; their heads are angular; fire and 
 smoke issue from their mouths ; they have openings 
 in the sides of their bodies into which they thrust 
 their hands and draw out iron, beads, nails, and 
 other treasures, and their speech is unintelligible. 
 This is the way they speak: 'a hikapalale, hika- 
 
32 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 palale, hioluai, oalaki, walawalaki, waiki poha.' " * 
 Apocryphal as this account may conceivably be, 
 it differs from similar accounts in history and fic- 
 tion of the effect produced on the savage mind by 
 the first sight of civilised white men, in the extraor- 
 dinary and probably authentic exposition of the 
 English language as it sounded to the astonished 
 ears of the Hawaiians. It will be noted that no 
 letters are used which are unknown in the native 
 tongue. 
 
 In the following November Captain Cook re- 
 turned, and, after cruising about among the 
 Islands, in January set up winter quarters for 
 purposes of trade and for making observations, at 
 Kealakekua Bay, on the southwest coast of Ha- 
 waii. The priests constituted themselves his 
 bodyguard, offered sacrifices to him in the temple, 
 and made the people worship him as a god. Large 
 quantities of provisions were supplied and there 
 was no more question of payment than there would 
 have been for offerings made to any other god. 
 But in this case the offerings were in large quan- 
 tities and were continuous, so that, after the nov- 
 elty had worn off, the heavy tax began to make 
 the people restless. The outrageous conduct of 
 the crew, also, over whom there seems to have 
 been no control, disgusted them, and only their 
 
 ♦Alexander: "Short History of the Hawaiian People," 
 p. 107. 
 
HISTORY TO 1898 83 
 
 terror of the priests kept them in subordination. 
 The departure of the strangers, therefore, after 
 about three weeks, was a time of great rejoicing 
 among the natives — a joy unfortunately short- 
 lived, as the ships ran into a severe storm and 
 were compelled to return for repairs. The recep- 
 tion this time was very different. The priests 
 were still faithful, so provisions were grudgingly 
 supplied, but the people were convinced that the 
 white men were not gods, treated them with con- 
 tempt, and finally became so bold as to steal a 
 ship's boat. In the fighting which ensued Captain 
 Cook was killed by being stabbed in the back with 
 an iron dagger. His body was held by the natives 
 and was that night given formal funeral rites. 
 His bones were deified. There is no doubt that 
 in this last affray the natives were the aggressors. 
 There is also no doubt that, had the sailors been 
 kept in check and the people been treated with 
 decent consideration, the final tragedy would not 
 have occurred. Stories, believed at the time and 
 by many believed to this day, that Captain Cook's 
 body was eaten, are absolutely groundless. The 
 Hawaiians were never at any time in their history 
 cannibals. 
 
 Captain Cook named this new land the Sand- 
 wich Islands, in honour of his patron, the Earl of 
 Sandwich, but it was a name never adopted offi- 
 cially and is gradually falling out of use the world 
 
34 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 over. The discovery of the Islands was the in- 
 auguration of a new era in Hawaiian affairs. 
 Their isolation was over. New forces were hence- 
 forth to control their destiny, but it is sad that the 
 first gift of the white men was disease and that 
 the feeling for them left in the minds of the natives 
 was one of fear mingled with contempt. 
 
 The history of the next thirty years is the story 
 of the gradual conquest of the Islands by Kame- 
 hameha. Left, on the death of the old King, as 
 second in power on the Island of Hawaii, he was 
 soon involved in one of the endless civil wars, and 
 after many reverses succeeded in making himself 
 the most powerful chief in the island, not even 
 excepting the King, to whom he was nominally 
 subject. In 1790 a great eruption of Kilauea, 
 which destroyed a large part of his rival's army 
 that was actually marching against him, convinced 
 Kamehameha that the goddess Pele was on his 
 side. It was, however, not a brilliantly successful 
 battle, but an act of gross treachery, culminating 
 in the murder of the King of Hawaii, which gave 
 him the sovereignty of the island. In 1795 dis- 
 sensions in the leeward islands made Kamehameha 
 believe that the time had come to carry his con- 
 quests across the water. Tradition reports the 
 strength of his army as 16,000 men. Maui he took 
 with comparative ease, and Oahu after a fierce 
 struggle in Nuuanu Valley, where the survivors of 
 
o 
 o 
 
HISTORY TO 1898 35 
 
 the opposing army were driven over the precipice 
 at the head of the valley. The invasion of Kauai 
 was prevented once by a storm which destroyed 
 many of the canoes which had already set sail, 
 once by a pestilence which carried off half of 
 Kamehameha's army. The island was finally, in 
 1810, voluntarily ceded by its king, who was, how- 
 ever, given permission to hold it in fief during his 
 lifetime on condition that he make Liholiho, Kame- 
 hameha's heir, his successor. The conquest of the 
 Islands was greatly facilitated by the facts that 
 Kamehameha was superior to other chiefs in the 
 number of his firearms and that he had in his 
 service two or three intelligent white men. 
 
 After the death of Captain Cook the Islands 
 were visited by successive expeditions, among 
 them those of the well-known navigators. Port- 
 lock and Dixon, and La Perouse, both in 
 1786. Captain Mears in 1787 took a high chief, 
 Kaiana, a friend of Kamehameha, on a visit to 
 China. On the whole, explorers were friendly, 
 but when the captains of ships visiting the 
 Islands did not treat the natives fairly reprisals 
 were often severe. Thus, for example, in 1789, 
 a sloop, the Fair American, was captured and the 
 crew killed. The sloop was for years used by 
 Kamehameha. Firearms were obtained by barter 
 and sometimes by theft. One explorer. Captain 
 George Vancouver, who had been sent out by the 
 
36 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 British Government, made three visits to Hawaii 
 and has always been considered a benefactor of the 
 Hawaiian people. He refused to sell firearms ; he 
 gave much good and sadly needed advice ; he tried 
 to act as mediator between warring factions ; and 
 landed cattle, which had been hitherto unknown, 
 but which now increased rapidly and were of great 
 benefit to the people. He it was, also, who super- 
 intended the construction of the first vessel built 
 in the Islands, the Britannia^ which formed an im- 
 portant addition to Kamehameha's little navy. At 
 his instigation a council of the chiefs was held 
 in 1794, at which it was determined to place the 
 Islands under the protection of Great Britain, and 
 in February of the same year the British flag was 
 hoisted. If England had ratified this voluntary 
 cession the subsequent history of the group would 
 have been very different. 
 
 After the conquest of Oahu in 1795 Kameha- 
 meha's chief work consisted in consolidating the 
 government. All the power he centralised in his 
 own hands. He broke up the dangerous influence 
 of ambitious chiefs by apportioning to them land 
 in small scattered parcels instead of assigning 
 whole districts, as had been the custom, and by 
 keeping the more turbulent at the court as his 
 personal attendants. He promoted agriculture by 
 every means in his power, and so sternly reproved 
 and punished crime that serious off^ences became 
 
HISTORY TO 1898 87 
 
 very rare. He made intelligent and successful 
 efforts to win the approval and co-operation of 
 foreigners. He supported rigorously the whole, 
 complex mass of the ancient tabu system, which 
 was probably wise, since there was nothing as yet 
 to replace the old religion, and the tabus were 
 of great service to him in upbuilding and perfect- 
 ing the power of his own personal rule. He was 
 eminently judicious in the choice of his counsellors 
 and in his appointments. He left to his successor 
 a consistent, efficient governmental system, so 
 thoroughly centralised, its power so impressed on 
 the minds of the people, that even a weak king 
 and the sweeping changes of the next few years 
 did not affect its stability. For his power as a 
 warrior, still more for his sagacity as a ruler, 
 Kamehameha I is rightly considered the greatest 
 of the Hawaiians, and under similar conditions 
 would have been a great man in any country. 
 
 At the time that the internal affairs of the 
 Islands were being put on a stable basis their 
 opportunities of contact with the outer world 
 became more frequent and their foreign relations 
 more important. During the first quarter of 
 the nineteenth century there grew up a large 
 trade in sandal-wood, which was bought at a 
 preposterously low figure, while at the same 
 time foreign articles were sold in Honolulu at ex- 
 orbitant prices. The sandal-wood trade was so 
 
S8 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 extensive and was carried on with so little thought 
 of the future that the trees were practically 
 exterminated and are even now very rare. Vast 
 quantities of rum were imported and stills for the 
 manufacture of a crude liquor, which was prac- 
 tically all alcohol, were set up on the different 
 islands, doing untold injury to the natives. At 
 this time also the Russians carried on an extensive 
 trade with the Islands and took an interest in 
 the country apparently dangerous to its inde- 
 pendence. One trader went so far as to build 
 forts and to hoist the Russian flag, a proceeding 
 which was naturally intensely irritating to the 
 King. To insure the safety of Honolulu a fort 
 was constructed in a position commanding the 
 harbour. This old fort was long since destroyed, 
 but has left its name in Fort Street, which once 
 led to it and is now the principal business thor- 
 oughfare of the city. 
 
 Immediately after the death of Kamehameha I 
 the whole tabu system fell to pieces and with it 
 went the ancient religion, in which the majority of 
 the people had long since ceased to believe. There 
 were, as might have been expected, some few who 
 at first refused to give up their gods, but it is 
 probable that even these were actuated largely by 
 political ambition, not by any real faith; there 
 was fighting in several places, but the new King 
 and the Queen Regent soon put down this incipient 
 
HISTORY TO 1898 89 
 
 insurrection. In general the fervour of renuncia- 
 tion was such that the chief priests themselves set 
 the example of burning the idols, and so complete 
 was the holocaust that but very few were saved. 
 Even the museums have found it difficult to obtain 
 fair specimens of ancient Hawaiian idols. Out- 
 wardly the destruction of the old religion was com- 
 plete, but certain superstitions were too deeply 
 rooted in the national character to be quickly 
 eradicated and have for generations influenced the 
 lives of the people, even aff'ecting their understand- 
 ing of the dogmas of Christianity. It is, however, 
 fair to say that in 1819 Hawaii was a land abso- 
 lutely without a religion. The destruction of the 
 idols came about through realisation of their im- 
 potence, as manifested in the freedom from punish- 
 ment of foreigners who made mock of the tabus 
 and who desecrated the temples. This voluntary 
 abolition of the old religion made much easier the 
 task of the American missionaries who arrived a 
 year later. 
 
 The coming of the missionaries was the real 
 beginning of civilisation in the Islands. Up to 
 1820 the outside world had given the Hawaiians 
 little beside trinkets, firearms, rum, and more 
 expert methods of deceit. Now it was to give to 
 them their part in the civilisation of Western na- 
 tions, to teach them that this involved the accept- 
 ance of new and higher ideals of conduct, of a 
 
40 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 religion to replace their outworn superstitions; 
 that it meant a life regulated according to civi- 
 lised law. The missionaries undoubtedly went to 
 Hawaii fired with the desire to save souls in danger 
 of eternal damnation. They seem very quickly to 
 have realised that wholesale baptism, misunder- 
 stood, was less important than a general quicken- 
 ing of spirit, a training in the decencies of life. 
 They never neglected the religious side of their 
 teaching, but they also never neglected the secular 
 side. They learned the Hawaiian language; they 
 reduced it to writing and imported printing 
 presses ; they did their best as doctors and taught 
 the elementary rules of health. At first only per- 
 mitted to land on sufferance, they soon became 
 of prime importance to the chiefs, and were their 
 advisers on almost all questions. It is fair to them 
 to say that if this function seemed an undue exten- 
 sion of their religious duties — and their severest 
 critics never accuse them of anything else — they 
 were the only foreigners in the Islands who would 
 advise the chiefs impartially, and the only ones, 
 moreover, who would have advised in such fashion 
 as to save the dwindling remnants of the Hawaiian 
 race. They were pioneers seeking results in bet- 
 ter men, not in riches for themselves; they were 
 trying to give the people their own standards of 
 decency and honour. This soon resulted in bitter 
 opposition from the foreign riffraff who infested 
 
HISTORY TO 1898 41 
 
 the Islands, and especially from the ships that 
 called more and more frequently. 
 
 It was the fixed belief of ship captains in those 
 distant days that no laws, whether of God or man, 
 were in force west of Cape Horn. The call at 
 Hawaii for water and provisions was most of all 
 an opportunity for debauchery and unchecked 
 crime. Hawaiian women were often captured and 
 carried off on cruises to the North. When a 
 whaler appeared off the coast many of the native 
 women fled to the mountains as their only sure 
 protection. It is easy to understand, therefore, 
 that when the King promulgated laws against im- 
 morality, laws evidently intended to be enforced, 
 the whaling crews considered themselves cheated 
 out of their rights and turned with rage against 
 the missionaries, whom they correctly held to be 
 responsible. In more than one instance brutal 
 attacks were made on missionaries in isolated sta- 
 tions, who were saved only by the devoted natives. 
 It is sad to think that the commander of a United 
 States frigate was among the most insolent in the 
 demand for the repeal of these laws against vice, 
 and that he permitted his men to attack both the 
 house of a chief and the mission premises in 
 Honolulu for the purpose of frightening the 
 Government into submission. Drink was carry- 
 ing off the Hawaiians by hundreds, and when, 
 in recognition of the danger, a heavy duty 
 
42 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 was laid on spirits, it was the commander of 
 a French frigate who gave the King a 
 few hours to decide whether he would abolish 
 the duty or undertake a war with France. 
 These outrages and many others of a similar kind 
 directed against efforts really to uplift the coun- 
 try were seconded by a party in Honolulu, a party,, 
 unfortunately, headed by the British consul who 
 was for years allowed to retain his post in spite 
 of repeated protests and requests for his removal 
 on the part of the Hawaiian Government. 
 
 Internal affairs, in the meantime, had been ably 
 managed by the Queen Regent, Kaahumanu, who 
 was a wife of Kamehameha I. The King, Liholiho, 
 or Kamehameha II, was weak and dissipated and 
 finally died while on a trip to England. The Queen 
 Regent held the power until her death, and then 
 appointed Kinau, a daughter of Kamehameha I, 
 who, although an able woman, was not as forceful 
 as Kaahumanu, to succeed her during the minority 
 of the young King. It seems to have been a well- 
 established custom to have a woman hold, with the 
 King, the regal power. Kamehameha III also was 
 inclined to be of weak moral fibre, and every effort 
 was made by the lower class of foreigners to 
 destroy his health and to subvert his vaguely good 
 intentions by leading him into every form of dis- 
 sipation. He was, however, protected, as his 
 predecessor had not been, and his long reign 
 
HISTORY TO 1898 43 
 
 (1824-1854) was, on the whole, a time of pros- 
 perity and of rapid progress. Education became 
 general, laws were fixed, the troubles concerning 
 the Roman Catholic religion were brought to a 
 satisfactory conclusion by an edict of general 
 toleration. These troubles, which at one time 
 threatened to produce international complications, 
 the King refusing to permit Catholic missionaries 
 to land, were occasioned largely by the fact that 
 Hawaiians had been accustomed for centuries to 
 look on religion as an integral part of the Gov- 
 ernment and, therefore, to consider a man who 
 professed a different creed from that of the King 
 as necessarily a rebel. To Kamehameha III also 
 is due the credit of giving to the kingdom a liberal 
 constitution, which allowed it to be ranked in the 
 company of civilised nations. 
 
 It was during this reign that a great impetus 
 was given to the development of property by the 
 enactment of laws concerning private owner- 
 ship of land, which laws finally did away with the 
 ancient theory that the title of all lands rested in 
 the chief. A land commission decided that one- 
 third of all the land was the property of the King, 
 one-third the property of the chiefs, and the final 
 third of the common people. The King, a few days 
 after this decision, turned over half of his share 
 to be forever used as Government land, his own 
 portion being called the Crown land. As many 
 
44 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 of the chiefs followed his generous example, the 
 Government came into possession of nearly a third 
 of the land of the Islands. The land commission 
 also undertook the arduous task of proving claims 
 and issuing titles. It being now possible to hold 
 real property in fee simple, to buy it and to sell 
 it, men who were at last owners instead of merely 
 tenants were willing to make extensive improve- 
 ments. Foreigners also were able to acquire land 
 and were no longer considered as sojourners at the 
 will of the King. 
 
 Another important achievement was the success 
 of the King's commissioners in obtaining definite 
 recognition of Hawaiian independence by England, 
 France, and the United States, Daniel Webster 
 stating on behalf of the United States that " the 
 government of the Sandwich Islands ought to be 
 respected ; that no power ought to take possession 
 of the Islands, either as a conquest or for the pur- 
 pose of colonisation; and that no power ought 
 to seek for any undue control over the existing 
 government, or any exclusive privileges or prefer- 
 ences in matters of commerce." News of this for- 
 eign recognition was not received, however, before 
 Lord George Paulet, commanding H. M. S. Carys- 
 fort, had provisionally annexed the Islands to 
 Great Britain. He acted arbitrarily on the insti- 
 gation of the deputy of that indefatigable trouble- 
 maker, the British consul, who, after this episode, 
 
HISTORY TO 1898 45 
 
 was finally removed. The alleged reason for the 
 annexation given by Lord Paulet was the unwill- 
 ingness of the Hawaiian Government to settle cer- 
 tain disputes in favour of British subjects. The 
 King, refusing to accede to any further demands, 
 said, " I will not die piecemeal ; they may cut 
 off my head at once." The lowering of the Ha- 
 waiian flag and the hoisting of the British flag 
 in its place occurred on February 18th, 1844, and 
 for five months the Islands were governed by a 
 British commission. In July Admiral Thomas, in 
 command of Her Majesty's forces in the Pacific, 
 arrived in Honolulu, and with all possible cere- 
 mony promptly restored the Hawaiian flag. The 
 open space east of the town, where the restoration 
 was made, was set aside as a public park and is 
 called Thomas Square. It is interesting to note 
 also that in a speech at a great meeting of thanks- 
 giving and rejoicing in the afternoon the King 
 used the words which were afterwards adopted as 
 the national motto : " Ua mau ke ea o ka aina i 
 ka pono," meaning " The strength of the land is 
 perpetuated by righteousness." Except for an 
 absurd and meaningless occupation by France for 
 a few days in 1849, the autonomy of the Islands 
 was never again questioned. 
 
 At this time the diff*erent departments of gov- 
 ernment, executive, legislative, and judicial, were 
 created in substantially the form that they held 
 
HISTORY TO 1898 47 
 
 ably from the Orient, about 1850, and was spread- 
 ing among Hawaiians in an alarming manner. 
 The Islands were made more accessible by the 
 starting of a line of steamers between San Fran- 
 cisco and Australia which made Honolulu a port 
 of call. 
 
 With the death of Kamehameha V, after a short 
 reign, the old royal line came to an end. The King 
 had not exercised his right of appointing a suc- 
 cessor and, therefore, a general election was held, 
 in which Prince William C. Lunalilo, who was 
 considered the chief of highest rank in the Islands, 
 was elected as sovereign. He died a year later, 
 not neglecting to appoint his successor, but declar- 
 ing that the King ought to be elected by the 
 people. 
 
 In 1874, therefore, David Kalakaua, also a 
 high chief, was elected to succeed him. The 
 triumph of his reign was the securing of a treaty 
 of commercial reciprocity by which Hawaiian 
 sugar and a few other products were admitted 
 free of duty into the United States. In return 
 Hawaii, besides making a general remission 
 of duties, gave to the United States the use 
 of Pearl Harbour, as a coaling or naval station. 
 This treaty assured the prosperity of the Islands 
 and marked the definite establishment of the great 
 industries. Labourers were imported from China, 
 Japan, the Azores, and Madeira. From these At- 
 
48 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 lantic islands over ten thousand Portuguese mi- 
 grated to Hawaii, where climatic conditions were 
 similar to what they were accustomed to and where 
 opportunities for remunerative industry were 
 greater. King Kalakaua was, however, unable to 
 read the signs of the times in the rapid decrease 
 of the native population and in the even more 
 rapid increase of the foreign population, and was 
 determined to restore to his government much of 
 the autocratic royal authority that had been volun- 
 tarily ceded in the constitution given by Kame- 
 hameha III. So strained did popular feeling run 
 that in 1887 there was a bloodless revolution, in 
 consequence of which the King was forced to sign 
 an even more liberal constitution, that made the 
 cabinet responsible only to the legislature, and 
 that prevented the legislators from holding any 
 other office. This reform, which was bitterly op- 
 posed by the personal adherents of the King, led 
 t\\^o years later to an insurrection, in which the 
 I^ihg himself, however, took no direct part, and 
 which was promptly quelled, with the loss of seven 
 ^men among the rebels. Kalakaua was a pictur- 
 esque figure, personally affable and intelligent. 
 On a trip around the world, ostensibly to look 
 into the question of the importation of labourers, 
 he was everywhere treated with royal honour, was 
 universally liked, and was given the most friendly 
 aid in cgllecting information for the good of his 
 
HISTORY TO 1898 49 
 
 own kingdom. In a book entitled " Around the 
 World with a King," this tour has been most 
 amusingly treated, although, it must be admitted, 
 with ungenerous sarcasm, by Mr. W. N. Arm- 
 strong, who accompanied him as Commissioner of 
 Immigration. 
 
 Kalakaua died in San Francisco in January, 
 1891, and his body was brought to Honolulu in 
 the U. S. S. Charleston. His sister, Liliuokalani, 
 whom he had nominated as his successor, was im- 
 mediately proclaimed Queen. Even more than her 
 brother had been was she, unfortunately, eager to 
 remove the constitutional restrictions on the power 
 of the Crown, and her wishes were fervently sec- 
 onded, if not actually induced, by unscrupulous 
 advisers, who saw in any political upheaval op- 
 portunities for their own aggrandisement. Polit- 
 ical intrigue became the business of certain ambi- 
 tious foreigners and Hawaiians of mixed blood, 
 whose purely selfish purposes were evident from 
 the fact that when the Queen was not with them 
 they intrigued with unabated ardour against her. 
 It was significant that the best of the Hawaiians, 
 as well as the better element of the white popula- 
 tion, stood aloof from the struggles. During the 
 last week of the long legislative sessions of 1892 
 two obnoxious bills were passed, one licensing the 
 sale of opium, one granting" a franchise to estab- 
 lish a lottery. Public feeling was intense, and 
 
50 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 when it became known that a new constitution, 
 doing awaj with all restrictions on the royal au- 
 thority, limiting the franchise to Hawaiians, and 
 destroying the guarantees of the judiciary, had 
 been drawn up and was about to be promulgated, 
 the leading citizens saw that decisive action had 
 become necessary. On January 16, 1893, a Com- 
 mittee of Safety was appointed and on the next 
 day a Provisional Government, having general 
 legislative authority, was established. Unfortu- 
 nately, troops were landed from the U. S. S. Bos- 
 ton to protect the lives and property of American 
 citizens, an act that later gave to the royalists the 
 claim which so appealed to President Cleveland, 
 that the royal government had submitted only to 
 the forces of the United States. In view of this 
 landing of troops, the Queen surrendered her au- 
 thority under protest, pending her appeal to 
 Washington. A commission of the Provisional 
 Government was immediately sent to the United 
 States to negotiate a treaty of annexation. Such 
 a treaty was actually drawn up by the Secretary 
 of State, signed, and submitted to the Senate. It 
 was not acted upon before the end of the session, 
 but in the meantime a Provisional Protectorate of 
 the Islands was proclaimed. President Cleveland, 
 immediately after his inauguration, sent a com- 
 missioner to Honolulu to take evidence, declared 
 the protectorate at an end, and later urged the 
 
HISTORY TO 1898 51 
 
 restoration of the Queen. To this, however, the 
 Provisional Government refused to accede, and, 
 as annexation seemed indefinitely postponed, took 
 immediate steps toward the framing of a constitu- 
 tion. On July 3, 1894, the Republic of Hawaii 
 was proclaimed, with Sanford B. Dole, a man who 
 throughout his life had been identified with all that 
 was least partisan and most upright in the Islands, 
 as the first President. 
 
 In 1895 there occurred an insurrection, again 
 planned by the disaffected part-Hawaiians rather 
 than by the full-blooded natives. It was put down 
 with the loss of very few lives, but resulted in a 
 trial for treason of the Queen and nearly two hun- 
 dred others, to all of whom conditional pardons 
 were granted. This ended the internal troubles 
 of the Republic, but complications with Japan 
 concerning immigration grew more and more diffi- 
 cult to cope with, and the only safety seemed to 
 be in annexation to the United States. Negotia- 
 tions to this end were renewed immediately after 
 the inauguration of President McKinley. Whether 
 these negotiations under ordinary circumstances 
 would have been more successful than were their 
 predecessors is a question, but during the war 
 with Spain the strategical importance of the Isl- 
 ands to the United States becoming evident, a 
 joint resolution of annexation was put through 
 Congress on July 7, 1898. This was accepted by 
 
52 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 the Government of the Republic of Hawaii and 
 annexation became an accomplished fact on Au- 
 gust 12th. Hawaii ceased to exist as an independ- 
 ent nation and became an integral part of the 
 United States. 
 
CHAPTER IV 
 
 HAWAH AS A TERRITORY 
 
 Under the Republic of Hawaii many Hawaiians 
 had refused to take the oath of allegiance and had, 
 therefore, been unable to vote. Even the most in- 
 tractable saw, however, that no dissatisfied element 
 in a United States Territory would have the re- 
 motest chance of carrying through a revolution. 
 Restoration of the monarchy suddenly became a 
 dead issue. But to the leaders such restoration had 
 never been more than an incident in the scramble 
 for personal power and, instructed by Americans 
 even more frankly rapacious than they were them- 
 selves, they saw in the control of the Territorial 
 Government political opportunities that were well 
 worth seizing. The Governor was appointed by 
 the President. That office was, at least for the 
 moment, therefore, out of reach, but the election 
 of a delegate to Washington and the control of 
 the home legislature were both worth striving for. 
 A so-called Home Rule party was promptly formed 
 — the meaningless name was intended to catch the 
 ignorant and disgruntled — and all Hawaiians were 
 urged by the agitators to cast their votes in the 
 coming elections. The victory of the new party 
 
54 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 was overwhelming. It controlled the legislature 
 and it sent as Congressional Delegate Robert Wil- 
 cox, a confirmed intriguer, who had in the past 
 plotted against nearly everything, including the 
 monarchy itself, and who had led the abortive 
 insurrection of 1895. In Washington, to his great 
 surprise, he found himself an extremely unimpor- 
 tant personage. Congressmen preferred to con- 
 sult the unofficial representative of the Honolulu 
 Merchants' Association and Chamber of Com- 
 merce, a man who really understood and would 
 tell the truth about Island conditions and needs. 
 Only a small amount of Hawaiian business was 
 transacted by Congress, and even with that little 
 the delegate's most staunch supporters were unable 
 to credit him. At home, in the meantime, the 
 Home Rule legislators were showing their inca- 
 pacity. Bills of no importance were discussed at 
 great length, and so much time was spent by the 
 legislature of 1901 in the consideration of a bill 
 for the encouragement of female dogs that it suc- 
 ceeded in immortalising itself under the name of 
 the Female Dog Legislature. Its more absurd 
 measures were naturally vetoed by the Governor, 
 and the Home Rule party finally made itself so 
 ridiculous that although it still exists in name it 
 controls very few votes. Very soon, also, the two 
 regular American parties had properly organised 
 and have never been outnumbered by the Home 
 
HAWAII AS A TERRITORY 55 
 
 Rulers except in the first election, that of 1900. 
 The votes cast for the Delegate to Congress at 
 that election were : Republican 3,856, Democratic 
 1,650, Home Rule 4,083. In 1910 the numbers 
 were : Republican 8,049, Democratic 4,503, Home 
 Rule 989. The Republicans, who have been in 
 the majority since 1902, sent as delegate Prince 
 Kuhio Kalaneanaole, a nephew of the Queen of 
 King Kalakaua, and himself a chief by birth.* 
 The political machinery of the Territory is at 
 present similar to that of any of the States on the 
 mainland. As there is no prohibitive clause in the 
 organic act there is no reason why the Territory 
 should not eventually apply for admission to the 
 Union as a State. There is every reason, on the 
 other hand, why such application should not be 
 made until conditions have become fixed and the 
 American population is greater. 
 
 This ultimate possibility was recognised by the 
 United States when the Islands were constituted 
 a Territory instead of a " possession " with a dis- 
 tinct form of government such as was devised for 
 Porto Rico and the Philippines. It was a pos- 
 sibility which Congress was willing to accept, since 
 they saw that Hawaii was already American in 
 language and institutions and that for it, in con- 
 sequence, a Territorial Government was as proper 
 
   In 1912 the Territory, like most of the States on the main> 
 land, went Democratic. 
 
56 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 as for Arizona, whereas a people whose ideals and 
 language were Spanish must go through a long 
 period of probation before they were fit to take 
 their independent place in the American political 
 system. From the beginning the policy pursued 
 toward Hawaii has been a wise one. The Gov- 
 ernors appointed have not been strangers, but 
 citizens of Honolulu thoroughly conversant with 
 Island problems. And to a large extent this has 
 been the case with other Federal appointments. 
 Hawaii has so far mercifully been spared purely 
 political appointments dealt out as rewards. 
 The result has been proper appreciation of 
 Island needs because of proper representation 
 at Washington, and at home steady progress that 
 would not otherwise have been possible. 
 
 Looking at the matter purely from the Hawaiian 
 point of view, American annexation has been, in 
 the main, of great benefit. One often hears the 
 remark, to be sure, " It was not this way before," 
 — " before " always referring to the years prior 
 to 1898, — and certain it is that society, without the 
 court as a picturesque centre, with many of the 
 delightful English residents replaced by a purely 
 commercial class of Americans, has lost much of 
 its charm. Economically, also, the operation of 
 the Chinese exclusion law has caused serious difli- 
 culties to Island industries. In contrast to this, 
 however, the ever present, if perhaps unfounded, 
 
o 
 
 G 
 
 c 
 
 o 
 o 
 
 D 
 
 o 
 
 
HAWAII AS A TERRITORY 57 
 
 fear of seizure by Japan was at once removed. 
 Trade benefits, already enjoyed under the Reci- 
 procity Treaty, were made certain for all time. 
 The very difficulty of the labour situation should 
 lead eventually to the forming of a more stable 
 population and of a more dependable labouring 
 class. 
 
 The aid of the Federal Government makes pos- 
 sible the prosecution of necessary public works, 
 which the limited resources of the Kingdom and of 
 the Republic did not permit. The Islands have long 
 been in dire need of adequate harbour facilities. 
 The work of dredging, deepening, and building 
 breakwaters is rapidly being carried on under ap- 
 propriations of Congress, supplemented by grants 
 from Territorial funds. Honolulu harbour is good 
 but small, and is being enlarged, not only to satisfy 
 present needs, but to meet the greater demands 
 that will arise after the completion of ^he Panama 
 Canal. At Hilo a breakwater 2,528 feet long has 
 been contracted for, and docks are being con- 
 structed to accommodate the largest seagoing ves- 
 sels. A breakwater at Kahului, the principal port 
 of Maui, is being built as an extension of one 
 already constructed by the local railway company. 
 Surveys are being made to decide what harbour on 
 Kauai is most suitable for extensive development. 
 It is intended eventually to have, on all the im- 
 portant islands, landing places which will afford 
 
58 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 adequate shelter in all weather. So far the most 
 notable work of the kind has been, of course, that 
 at Pearl Harbour, already carried out by the 
 Navy Department. 
 
 In the Archives Building in Honolulu was re- 
 cently found an old letter written by Lieutenant 
 Curtis on board the U. S. frigate Constitution — 
 " Old Ironsides " — to the Hawaiian Minister of 
 Foreign Affairs. In it he said : " Allow me to call 
 your attention to the importance of Pearl Har- 
 bour, the perfect security of the harbour, the excel- 
 lence of its water, the perfect ease with which it can 
 be made one of the finest places in the Islands, all 
 of which combine to make it a great consideration. 
 While the harbour was clearing out fortifications 
 could be built, troops could be drilled, the forts 
 might be garrisoned. Government storehouses built. 
 The amount of money to be expended will be but 
 a feather in comparison with the almost incalcula- 
 ble amount of wealth that will result upon the 
 completion of these objects." So, for the last half- 
 century and more. United States naval officers ' 
 have dwelt on the limitless strategic importance 
 of this remarkable harbour, which actually came 
 under American domination, not when the Islands 
 were annexed under President McKinley, but when 
 the Reciprocity Treaty was carried through dur- 
 ing the administration of President Grant. Pearl 
 Harbour, eight miles west of Honolulu, is con- 
 
HAWAII AS A TERRITOiaY 6^ 
 
 nected with the open sea by a narrow channel only. 
 It contains 10 square miles of navigable water 
 that is absolutely calm in any weather. The only 
 harbour of real importance in the Islands, it is 
 much finer than any on the Pacific slope of the 
 mainland. The difficulty in making it practicable 
 lay in the shallow bar at the entrance and in the 
 tortuous channel leading to the deep inner locks. 
 In 1908 a contract was signed with a Hawaiian 
 company for the dredging work, which included 
 the removal of the bar, the straightening of the 
 channel, and the excavation for a drydock. The 
 first part of this extremely difficult work has been 
 completed, and on December 14, 1911, the United 
 States armoured cruiser California steamed 
 through the entrance, up the almost straight four- 
 and-a-half-mile channel, and anchored in the inner 
 harbour opposite the partly finished drydock. This 
 was the first large vessel ever to reach the inner 
 harbour. Among the admiral's invited guests were 
 Queen Liliuokalani and Judge Dole, first Governor 
 of the Territory — a pleasant commentary on the 
 relations between the warring factions of old. 
 Thus, at a cost of about $3,000,000, this part of 
 the great work is nearing completion, and to-day 
 the entire United States Navy, or any navy that 
 we may eventually have, might steam into the 
 harbour and find safe anchorage. 
 
 Curiously have the old-time recommendations of 
 
60 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 Lieutenant Curtis to the Hawaiian Government 
 been followed by the Army and Navy of his own 
 country. While the dredging was being done 
 seven great industrial buildings, including forge 
 shops, a power house, a foundry, repair shops, 
 and a storehouse, have been constructed. Marine 
 barracks and officers' quarters are standing on the 
 plain back of the harbour. Fort Kamehameha, with 
 its powerful guns of most modern type, guards 
 the channel leading to the sea. In different army 
 posts throughout the Islands troops have been 
 drilling. Lieutenant Curtis did not mention a 
 drydock because he could not foresee the dread- 
 noughts of modem days. So, in addition to his 
 recommendations, this is being constructed, a dry- 
 dock 820 feet long, 110 feet wide, and 35 feet 
 deep, which will require in the making thousands 
 of tons of rocks and over 250,000 barrels of 
 cement, which will cost $4,000,000 but will, when 
 completed, hold the greatest naval vessels in the 
 world. Connected with the station there will be 
 also an administration building, a coaling plant, 
 an immense floating crane, hospitals, and a powder 
 magazine. Much work must still be done in the 
 construction of sea walls, street paving, and in 
 general yard development, yet it is expected that 
 the station will be completed early in 1915. All 
 this has, of course, given work to thousands of 
 American citizens on the spot, and has been, as 
 
HAWAII AS A TERRITORY 61 
 
 well, a stimulus to industrial enterprises in Hono- 
 lulu, both in the furnishing of material and in 
 the extension of transportation facilities. 
 
 But the work at Pearl Harbour is in preparation 
 for only one of the many military posts that are 
 expected to make Oahu one of the most strongly 
 fortified places in the world. All these posts will 
 be on the southern and western slopes of the 
 island, since the precipitous mountains on the 
 windward side make an attack from that quarter 
 physically impossible. What is more, the impreg- 
 nability of Oahu will make untenable in case of 
 war the permanent occupation of any of the other 
 islands, since there are in them no harbours suit- 
 able for battleships which could possibly be de- 
 fended. At the base of Diamond Head, Fort Ruger, 
 with its concrete buildings for barracks and 
 quarters and its heavy seacoast guns, garrisoned 
 by two companies of the Coast Artillery Corps, is 
 the headquarters of the Artillery District of Hono- 
 lulu. Fort de Russy at Waikiki, a fortified post 
 without, as yet, permanent barracks, is the head- 
 quarters of the Engineer Battalion. Fort Arm- 
 strong, guarding Honolulu harbour, is also a 
 fortified post and serves as saluting station of the 
 port. Fort Shafter at Moanalua, a few miles 
 northwest of Honolulu, is a post consisting of 
 frame buildings, and is garrisoned by a battalion 
 of infantry. Schofield Barracks, on the upland 
 
62 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 plains between the Waianae and Koolau ranges of 
 mountains, is garrisoned by a large force, which 
 includes all branches of the mobile forces. The 
 District of Hawaii, which includes the Hawaiian 
 Islands and their dependencies, was, in October, 
 1911, created an independent military department, 
 with headquarters in Honolulu. All the garrisons 
 are gradually being increased, and it is probable 
 that eventually 10,000 men, exclusive of naval and 
 marine forces, will be stationed on the Island of 
 Oahu. Already the military is almost as much in 
 evidence in Honolulu as it is in Gibraltar, and, 
 unless the city continues to grow, it seems as 
 though in a few years the civil costume would be 
 the exception rather than the rule. 
 
 All this costly military preparation may seem 
 to the unthinking, or to those so peace-loving that 
 they see in every gun a threat of war, a waste of 
 national funds. It is, on the contrary, profoundly 
 foresighted, since the Pacific Ocean is rapidly be- 
 coming the theatre where world powers are striving 
 for commercial and military supremacy. The 
 Hawaiian Islands, situated at the cross-roads of 
 traffic, the only available stopping-place in the 
 whole vast extent of the North Pacific, will enable 
 the United States absolutely to command the 
 ocean against an Asiatic or any other power, by 
 making an overseas attack too dangerous to be 
 attempted. No modern war-fleet would dare to 
 
o 
 
 o 
 
 C 
 
 S3 
 
 c 
 
 3 
 
HAWAII AS A TERRITORY 63 
 
 get 4,000 miles away from a base of supplies. 
 This great, impregnable oasis of the ocean, more- 
 over, will insure the safety of the important trade 
 routes and will thus supplement the international 
 value of the Panama Canal. 
 
 The Territory has been, aside from its naval 
 and military value, a paying investment for the 
 United States. The customs receipts have in- 
 creased every year, and in 1911 amounted to more 
 than $1,650,000. Imports from the mainland 
 have increased in value from $12,000,000 in 1903 
 to $22,000,000 in 1911. By the terms of annexa- 
 tion both the Government and Crown lands became 
 the property of the United States, lands aggre- 
 gating over half of the real property in the Isl- 
 ands. It has always been a disputed question with 
 regard to the Crown lands as to whether or not 
 some compensation should be made to the Queen, 
 the income of these lands having been at the per- 
 sonal disposition of the sovereign. Legal opinion 
 seems to hold, however, that the lands were held 
 by the Crown in virtue of office, and that the trans- 
 fer of the sovereignty carried with it transfer of 
 title. In spite of this, most inhabitants of the 
 Territory feel that it would not have been a strain- 
 ing of justice to give the Queen some compensa- 
 tion, and that the courtesy of the act would have 
 done away finally with any lingering resentment 
 among the Hawaiian people. Laws relating to 
 
64 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 all public lands are enacted by Congress and 
 have been so framed as to offer every inducement 
 to bona-fide homesteading, and at the same time 
 to discourage occupancy for speculative purposes. 
 The amount of arable land is comparatively small, 
 and it is rightly considered wiser to get whatever 
 income is possible by leasing than to allow it to fall 
 permanently into other hands than those of desir- 
 able settlers, men who will not only improve their 
 own holdings, but will raise community standards. 
 The schools in the Territory, all of which are 
 conducted in English, had enrolled in 1911 26,122 
 pupils, of whom 20,597 were in the public schools, 
 5,525 in the private. There was a total of 799 
 teachers, of whom 374 were American. Education 
 is compulsory and free, and is as efficient in Hawaii 
 in all branches below those of the university as it 
 is in any part of the United States. It was said 
 a few years ago that, excluding the Orientals, the 
 proportion of illiterates in the Islands was lower 
 than in the State of Massachusetts. A public 
 library, toward which Mr. Carnegie gave $100,- 
 000, is building in Honolulu. By legislative en- 
 actment it will have an income of $15,000 a year, 
 and will contain at the outset some 20,000 volumes, 
 including the important collection belonging to 
 the Hawaiian Historical Society. 
 
 Nowhere is more efficient care taken of the 
 public health. This is essential, since Honolulu, 
 
HAWAII AS A TERRITORY 65 
 
 with its cosmopolitan population, its tropical 
 climate, its immigration from all parts of the 
 world, its situation at the junction of Pacific trade 
 routes, is peculiarly liable to infection. And the 
 very reasons which make it so liable are the same 
 which make freedom from disease imperative. 
 The water supply and the sewage system of Hono- 
 lulu are excellent, as indeed they are rapidly be- 
 coming in all centres of population. The Terri- 
 torial Board of Health has almost unlimited pow- 
 ers in the inspection of immigrants, of whom they 
 send away hundreds annually, in passing on im- 
 ported fruit, in the cleaning up of unsanitary 
 districts, in the control of tuberculosis, and in the 
 enforcement of pure-food laws. The legislature, 
 realising the dangers, is very liberal in its appro- 
 priations to cover this work. The counties assist 
 various hospitals, and the Territorial Government 
 itself is interested financially in several general 
 hospitals, in four tuberculosis hospitals, and in the 
 dispensaries, and supports entirely the insane 
 asylum and the leper settlement on Molokai. 
 
 It is said that fear of leprosy deters many from 
 visiting the Islands, yet probably in no part of 
 the globe is there less danger of infection, because 
 nowhere is the disease so well understood, nowhere 
 so well cared for, and nowhere are the patients — 
 even those in whom there is even a suspicion of 
 leprosy — so rigorously isolated. The leper set- 
 
66 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 tlement is situated on a triangle of land on the 
 north side of Molokai, separated from the rest 
 of the island by practically impassable cliffs. 
 Here, during 1911, were treated 649 patients, of 
 whom 559 were Hawaiians. There are in Honolulu 
 a receiving station and homes for non-leprous 
 boys and girls of leprous parents. Thoroughly 
 scientific investigation of the disease is being con- 
 ducted, and it has lately been found possible arti- 
 ficially to cultivate the bacillus, an advance in 
 knowledge which augurs well for the ultimate dis- 
 covery of a cure. Leprosy is not contagious, can 
 be contracted only through inoculation, and takes 
 years to manifest itself, — three facts which prove 
 the nonsense of the frequent scare headlines in 
 American newspapers about the disease. Many 
 devoted men and women have given their lives 
 to service in the leper settlement, and none, with 
 the exception of Father Damien, has contracted 
 the disease. Stevenson's magnificent philippic, 
 cruelly unfair to Dr. Hyde as it was, has made 
 the name of Father Damien known and reverenced 
 the world over. All honour must be given to him 
 as the pioneer, as the first man willing to isolate 
 himself for the benefit of the unfortunate patients, 
 a self-sacrifice even more noble since he evidently 
 expected to die a leper, as he did. Because he 
 took the disease, however, is often the reason that 
 he is praised, whereas, as a matter of fact, he con- 
 
HAWAII AS A TERRITORY 67 
 
 tracted leprosy only through gross carelessness 
 and because he did not take the trouble to keep 
 clean. Because he was the pioneer he is a hero, 
 but hardly less heroes are those who have followed 
 him, who have not contracted leprosy because they 
 have been reasonably careful and willing to bathe. 
 Lepers are never seen in the Islands. Practically 
 no Americans have become lepers. The inhab- 
 itants of the Islands never think of the disease 
 except to glory in the splendid work which is being 
 done toward finding a cure. 
 
 Since Hawaii became a Territory it has grown 
 rapidly in population, its old industries have in- 
 creased and new industries have been developed. 
 The trans-Pacific cable has put it into immediate 
 communication with the rest of the world, enabling 
 its business interests to keep constantly in touch 
 with the great marts of trade. It is fortunate in 
 having as the backbone of its population a force 
 of intelligent citizens who have loyally transferred 
 their allegiance to the United States, but who love 
 their own little land and put its well-being above 
 all personal considerations. \Its affairs have been 
 wisely conducted in Washington, so that it is 
 justified in looking forward toward a bright 
 future, in which it will have its own honourable 
 share in the progress of its mother countrj^ 
 
CHAPTER V 
 
 COMMERCE AND INDUSTRY 
 
 The Hawaiian Islands are industrially a busy 
 and progressive place, and, unlike other tropical 
 countries, physical activity is not limited to the 
 dark-skinned races. The climate is such that Cau- 
 casians can not only work in the open but, for the 
 sake of health, need vigorous out-door exercise. 
 The result is that agricultural opportunities are 
 limited only by the extent of available land. The 
 variety of crops that can be raised, moreover, is 
 almost endless, ranging from the fully tropical 
 near the seashore to crops of the temperate zone 
 on the higher levels. 
 
 Only one industry has so far been developed to 
 its fult capacity. All the large tracts of land 
 suitable to the raising of sugar-cane are already 
 taken up by the plantations. The only increase 
 in production can be through the growing of cane 
 on small parcels of land by individuals who will 
 sell what they raise to the plantations to be ground 
 at the mills. There was sugar-cane on the Islands 
 when they were discovered. The first exportation 
 of sugar was made as far back as 1837. A man 
 who visited one of these primitive sugar mills has 
 
 68 
 
COMMERCE AND INDUSTRY 69 
 
 described the curious granite rollers used to 
 extract the juice, and the crude iron pans used 
 as boilers, adding, as something hard to believe, 
 that one mill was able to produce as many as 300 
 pounds of sugar in a day. The great impetus to 
 sugar production was given by the Reciprocity 
 Treaty of 1878, which insured a market, and since 
 then the industry has steadily grown, until in 1912 
 the fifty-six plantations produced 566,821 tons, 
 valued at $45,345,680, this being an increase in 
 the ten years since annexation of 200,000 tons. 
 The value of incorporated and private sugar 
 property is about $70,000,000. Over 200,000 
 acres of land, about half of which has been re- 
 claimed, are devoted to the growing of cane. 
 Artificial irrigation of this formerly arid land is 
 carried on by means of extensive series of arte- 
 sian wells, from which water is pumped to the 
 higher fields, and by great mountain reservoirs, 
 from which ditches distribute water over thousands 
 of acres. An immense amount of fertiliser is used 
 annually, and the plantations devote large sums 
 to scientific study of soils and to improvement by 
 hybridisation of the different varieties of cane. 
 Indeed, the scientific precision with which the in- 
 dustry is conducted, the perfection of the machin- 
 ery, the success in adapting different kinds of cane 
 to different soils, and in raising those soils eco- 
 nomically to their highest producing power, 
 
70 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 should be a lesson to agriculturists the world 
 over. 
 
 On the large plantations the soil is ploughed to 
 a depth of about three feet and the cane is planted 
 in rows about eight feet apart; on irrigated land 
 the distance is less. The first crop is ready 
 for the mill in about eighteen months, is 
 followed by a rattoon crop in fourteen months, 
 and by another rattoon crop about eighteen 
 months later. The third rattoon crop is 
 not profitable, so the land is usually allowed to 
 rest until a new planting is made. As no proper 
 harvesting machinery has been invented to cut the 
 cane, which grows in tangled masses, it is cut by 
 hand and sent to the mill on cars, or, where water 
 is plenty and the slope of the land sufficient, in 
 flumes. It has been found best to burn the fields 
 before harvesting, as the value of the small amount 
 of juice lost is incommensurate with the great 
 expense of stripping the cane. At the mill the 
 cane is passed through three sets of rollers, which 
 so thoroughly extract the juice that the refuse or 
 bagasse is immediately fed into the boiler furnaces. 
 The juice goes first into the boilers, from them 
 into the settling tanks and into the evaporator, 
 which may have a capacity of 1,500 tons of juice 
 per twenty-four hours. From the evaporator, 
 which has reduced it seventy-five per cent in vol- 
 ume, the juice is sent to the vacuum pans on the 
 
^W^^-'^.irA 
 
 Sugar Cane in Flower — ^Will be Ripe and Ready to 
 Grind in from Six to Eight Weeks 
 
c y c '■ » , ' 
 
 i 
 
COMMERCE AND INDUSTRY 71 
 
 upper floor of the mill. Under these are the 
 crystallisers, and lastly the sugar is sent for dry- 
 ing to the centrifugals. As it drops out of these 
 it is shovelled into bags and is ready for ship- 
 ment. 
 
 The whole process, which is intensely interesting, 
 can most easily be seen in one of the great mills 
 near Honolulu, that of Ewa, Oahu, or the Hono- 
 lulu Plantation, the latter being the only planta- 
 tion which refines its own sugar. These three 
 plantations, which are among the most pro- 
 gressive in the Islands, produced, respectively, 
 in the last year for which there are figures, 
 31,000, 33,000, and 17,000 tons. The average 
 yield per acre on Ewa plantation has run 
 as high as eight tons and a single acre has pro- 
 duced eleven tons. This is the more remarkable 
 when one realises that the average yield through- 
 out the Islands is a little over four tons, being 
 6.44 tons on irrigated land and 3.69 on unirri- 
 gated land, and that the average yield of the 
 plantations in Cuba is only a little over two tons. 
 The largest plantation in the Islands, and indeed 
 in the world, is the Hawaiian Commercial on Maui, 
 which produces between 50,000 and 60,000 tons a 
 year. The plantations along the coast of Hawaii 
 and on Kauai are, with one or two exceptions, com- 
 paratively small, although they are often as pros- 
 perous and as progressive as any. 
 
72 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 The great problem of the sugar planters is 
 labour, which must be cheap and to produce the 
 best results ought to be stationary. The planta- 
 tions have suffered immeasurably through the ex- 
 clusion of the Chinese, an exclusion which here 
 loses its point, since they do not, as labourers, 
 compete with the whites. The Japanese are 
 excitable and restless. The Hawaiians and the 
 Portuguese are far too few to supply the de- 
 mand. Field labourers get from $18 to $25 a 
 month in addition to comfortable houses. The 
 planters are testing also various co-operative 
 schemes, as well as a sliding scale of wages, the 
 amount increasing according to the length of time 
 during which the labourer has worked for the 
 plantation. Profits are large, few of the planta- 
 tions being over-capitalised, but they are by no 
 means extravagant, as they occasionally were in 
 the early days of the industry, and a serious in- 
 crease in the cost of production could be borne by 
 very few plantations. The abolition of the duty 
 on raw sugar would permit most of them to con- 
 tinue with greatly reduced profits, whereas it 
 would probably kill the sugar industry of the 
 Southern States, benefiting only the Sugar Trust, 
 the sole business of which is refining. 
 
 Among other Island industries the cultivation 
 of rice, carried on almost exclusively by Orientals 
 and according to Chinese methods, is almost as 
 
COMMERCE AND INDUSTRY 73 
 
 old as sugar and long held second place. Some 
 12,000 acres are devoted to this industry, and 
 even under the primitive methods employed the 
 profits are large. Japanese rice is still imported, 
 but probably would not be were modern machinery 
 used in the cleaning and polishing of the home- 
 grown crop. As it is, water-buffaloes, strong, 
 patient, deformed-looking creatures, do most of 
 the work, not only in the fields but in threshing 
 the grain. Picturesque they certainly are, but it 
 is equally certain that they are neither as thor- 
 ough nor as clean as is modern machinery. 
 
 The commercial cultivation of pineapples is an 
 industry of comparatively recent introduction, al- 
 though pineapples for table use have been grown 
 for many years. For its best development the 
 fruit requires an elevation of from 500 to 1,200 
 feet and a rainfall of 35 inches or over. The 
 plants are set out in numbers varying from 2,500 
 to 12,000 to the acre, according to the size of fruit 
 desired. The first crop, of about 10 tons to the 
 acre, matures in from eighteen months to two 
 years, and a rattoon crop of from 15 to 18 tons 
 is harvested a year later. A second rattoon crop 
 is not, as in the case of sugar cane, profitable, 
 so the fields must be then reset. About 6,000 
 acres of land are now devoted to the cultivation 
 of pineapples, and in 1912 approximately 1,000,- 
 000 cases of two dozen two-pound cans were ex- 
 
74 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 ported, worth about $3.50 per case — this in addi- 
 tion to fresh fruit and to bottles of pineapple 
 juice. There are several canneries in the Islands, 
 that in Honolulu being the largest in the world, 
 so the fruit is sent away ready for the market, 
 which is still by no means satisfied.* Hawaiian 
 pineapples, both raw and canned, are said to have 
 the finest flavour of any grown. With the canneries 
 at hand the fruit has now a definite market value, 
 and the time has gone by when a passenger on 
 an inter-island steamer could buy from the canoes 
 surrounding the ship at some port of call a hun- 
 dred delicious little pineapples for the extravagant 
 sum of one dollar. 
 
 These three are the principal agricultural in- 
 dustries of the Islands, with sugar, of course, far 
 in the lead — too extravagantly in the lead, per- 
 haps, for a really safe financial situation. In calm 
 weather a ship does well enough with one anchor, 
 but in a storm it is more prudent to have several 
 to windward. At present sugar is the Hawaiian 
 anchor, and in comparison to it all the other in- 
 dustries are but larger or smaller fish-hooks 
 attached to slender cords. It is very satisfactory, 
 therefore, to note the growing interest in other 
 agricultural ventures. For example, there are now 
 
 * A drummer told me that he had distributed a dozen cans 
 of Hawaiian pineapple in Minnesota in 1909; that in 1910 he 
 had orders for two dozen cases; and in 1911 for thirty carloads. 
 
COMMERCE AND INDUSTRY 75 
 
 about 3,000 acres in sisal, with an annual output 
 of several hundred tons of fibre. That this will 
 in time become an important industry is almost 
 certain, since there are in the Islands large tracts 
 of arid land where sisal, which requires only two 
 inches of rain a year, will grow, and where little 
 else can ever be cultivated. The Hawaiian fibre is 
 of the highest quality and is much preferred in the 
 San Francisco market to that coming from Mexico, 
 where ninety-eight per cent of the sisal used in the 
 United States is at present grown. Another prom- 
 ising experiment is the cultivation of rubber, but, 
 whereas the first returns from sisal come in three 
 years, rubber trees do not begin to pay until the 
 eighth year. This, of course, necessitates a large 
 initial outlay and means that the money will for 
 a long time be unproductive. There are, however, 
 some 1,500 acres planted in rubber, and prospec- 
 tive rubber growers have been encouraged by the 
 discovery that it is possible, while the trees are 
 young, to get small immediate returns by inter- 
 cropping, that is, by planting some quickly matur- 
 ing crop such as soy beans between the rows of 
 trees. Another young industry is the cultivation 
 of tobacco, of which the finest grades can be grown 
 successfully and economically. There are, at the 
 lowest estimate, some 30,000 acres of soil excellent 
 for tobacco culture, and with intelligent manage- 
 ment the industry should be one of real importance. 
 
76 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 Coffee has been raised since 1817, but at present 
 the low wholesale price has cut down the profits 
 to a minimum and has discouraged the starting of 
 new plantations. Hawaiian coffee, especially that 
 grown in Kona, is, however, of such delicious 
 flavour that if a co-operative association could be 
 formed properly to introduce it into the United 
 States there is no reason why it should not again 
 become one of the most attractive and well-paying 
 industries.* Bananas grow wild all through the 
 Islands and are also extensively cultivated for 
 export. The banana fruits about a year and a 
 half after planting, and the tree is then cut down 
 to give room for the suckers which spring from 
 the roots. From 800 to 900 bunches per acre 
 is the usual crop. Some fifty varieties are grown 
 at various altitudes. Many of them are, so far, 
 unknown commercially — especially is this true of 
 the cooking varieties, which are even better than 
 those eaten raw. If a market were created for 
 these new kinds of banana they could be raised 
 very profitably and in quantities limited only by 
 the amount of suitable land. Other crops which 
 have been planted to some extent and have grown 
 well and which, therefore, seem to offer good op- 
 portunities to intelligent farmers are cotton, pro- 
 
 * A New York dealer said not long ago that if the Hawaiian 
 coffee agents, instead of being modest about it, had called it by 
 some fancy name and insisted that it was of i xncy grade, they 
 could have got high prices and sold all the Islands could raise. 
 
COMMERCE AND INDUSTRY 77 
 
 ducing here a more valuable and finer lint than 
 any grown in the Southern States ; cassava, 
 Manila hemp, citrus fruits, vanilla beans, which 
 flourish in very wet regions ; corn, and forage 
 plants. Full development of all these agricultural 
 possibilities would be of inestimable benefit to the 
 Islands and would be also excellent investments to 
 those who carried them through. 
 
 The ranching business, almost entirely in the 
 hands of Americans, uses as grazing lands some 
 160,000 acres. So far these ranches have sup- 
 plied the home demand for beef, but the demand 
 is increasing rapidly and to keep up with it the 
 ranchers will have to raise large quantities of 
 forage plants to supply the cattle in time of 
 drought, since the natural grazing lands will not 
 support many more. This is, of course, recog- 
 nised, and the ranchers prefer to plant extensively 
 rather than to lose control of the market. Sheep 
 are raised, but not yet in sufficient quantities to 
 meet the demand for home consumption of mutton. 
 Nor up to now has enough attention been paid 
 to selection of breeds which will produce the finest 
 quality of wool. Much work is at last being done 
 along this line, and the wool exported in the future 
 ought to be far above the standard of that ex- 
 ported in the past. No hogs were imported during 
 1911, enough, for the first time, being raised to 
 supply the home demand. Both horses and mules 
 
78 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 are imported annually as draught animals, al- 
 though the Island ranches should, and probably 
 eventually will, furnish all that are needed. Poul- 
 try raising is carried on to some extent, but quan- 
 tities of chickens and eggs are brought from the 
 mainland. Poultry diseases are troublesome here 
 as elsewhere, but are no more troublesome nor 
 harder to deal with. It would certainly seem, 
 therefore, that there is an excellent opportunity 
 for a few men who are experts in the business. 
 
 The vital need of the Islands is to insure settle- 
 ment on a satisfactory basis of the labour problem, 
 and the only proper settlement would seem to be 
 the creation of a class of independent small farm- 
 ers. The time of unrestricted Oriental immigra- 
 tion is over. More and more the balance must 
 turn in favour of the Caucasian labourers, who 
 are brought in large numbers annually, at great 
 expense to the Territory and the planters, from 
 southern Europe. These men bring their families. 
 They cannot be expected, and ought not to be 
 expected, to hoe cane all their lives. Their ambi- 
 tion to become independent land-owners, to have 
 their own little farms and orchards, which they 
 can cultivate and leave to their children, ought to 
 be realised within the Territory. So far as land 
 is concerned, there is no difficulty, but these men 
 do not want land unless it can be proved to them 
 that small farming is profitable. For this reason 
 
COMMERCE AND INDUSTRY 79 
 
 efforts are being made to test all kinds of crops, 
 to establish a central marketing agency for the 
 small farmers, and when these experiments are 
 completed, when it can be demonstrated that this 
 kind of farming is feasible and profitable as well 
 in Hawaii as on the mainland, then, it is hoped, 
 the plantation labourers will work to earn enough 
 money to buy an upland farm, not tickets to San 
 Francisco. They and their children will come 
 down to the cane fields to work in harvesting the 
 crop, just as the similar cla&s of small farmer 
 works in the harvesting season in California. In 
 this way only will the problem of labourers for the 
 plantations be permanently simplified, and at the 
 same time the Territory will have gained a steady 
 and reliable rural population. 
 
 Manufacturing, aside from the manufacturing 
 processes connected with the production of sugar 
 and with the canning of fruit, can never be of great 
 importance. This is inevitable owing to the dis- 
 tance of the Islands from world markets, and still 
 more to the absence of coal and of minerals. Only 
 one company, the Honolulu Iron Works, has, in 
 the face of these obstacles, worked itself into a 
 position of prime importance. This company has 
 a large plant and manufactures all the machinery 
 for the sugar mills and pumping stations, except, 
 of course, those parts controlled elsewhere by 
 patent. Indeed, so well known is it for its accurate 
 
80 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 and excellent work that it ships sugar machinery 
 to the Orient and even to Cuba. This success, 
 however, is an exception, brought about by de- 
 mands arising from special local conditions, and 
 does not affect the truth of the statement that 
 general manufacturing would be unprofitable. 
 
 In public service corporations the Islands can 
 take their place with any advanced community. 
 Honolulu has an unusually well-equipped and well- 
 conducted electric car service, with twenty-four 
 miles of track. The cars serve all parts of the 
 city, are of the most modern make, and are thor- 
 oughly comfortable. A franchise for an electric 
 line for the town of Hilo has lately been granted. 
 The steam railroads in the Islands are capitalised 
 at about $7,500,000 and have about 220 miles in 
 operation. The Oahu Railway and Land Com- 
 pany has a hundred miles of track, including the 
 main line and branches, and is connected on the 
 north side of the Island with twelve miles of the 
 Koolau Railway. The Oahu Railway Company 
 has excellent terminal facilities and docks and 
 offers good passenger and freight service. On 
 Maui, the Kahului Railroad Company operates 
 some sixteen miles of track, which connects, how- 
 ever, with 125 miles of plantation track. On 
 Hawaii the Hilo Railroad Company has built some 
 50 miles of road and is rapidly extending its lines 
 in all directions from Hilo. The line northward 
 
COMMERCE AND INDUSTRY 81 
 
 along the coast, which is extremely difficult to 
 build on account of the deep gulches, will eventu- 
 ally carry all the sugar of the district to Hilo 
 for transportation, thus doing away with the many 
 dangerous plantation landings where the sugar is 
 now lowered over the cliffs into small boats or 
 run on cables to the steamers. These lines are 
 mainly for the transportation of freight, but their 
 passenger service is also good, and they make 
 easy of access some of the best scenery in the 
 Territory. 
 
 Honolulu was one of the first cities anywhere 
 to have a general telephone service. The company 
 has now taken over also the management of inter- 
 island wireless telegraphy. All important centres 
 are equipped with electric lights, and the capital 
 is also supplied with gas. In so far, therefore, as 
 modern conveniences are concerned, the Islands 
 are quite on a par with the mainland. 
 
 Water transportation facilities are continually 
 increasing. The Inter-Island Steam Navigation 
 Company has a fleet of seventeen steamers, which 
 call at all ports in the Territory. During the 
 year 1911 they carried 64,108 passengers and 
 409,714 tons of freight. The steamers are small, 
 but three of them, the Maunakea, the Maunaloa, 
 and the Kilauea, have accommodations for a hun- 
 dred passengers and are as well fitted up and as 
 comfortable as any boats of corresponding size. 
 
82 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 This company controls nearly all of the inter- 
 island traffic. There are local lines, with boats 
 plying between the mainland and the Hawaiian 
 Islands, which operate their steamers mainly for 
 freight transportation. One of these lines, the 
 Matson Navigation Company, has excellent pas- 
 senger accommodations on three of its larger 
 steamers, and the Oceanic Steamship Company 
 has one passenger steamer on a regular tri-weekly 
 schedule between Honolulu and San Francisco. 
 Honolulu is also a port of call for various through 
 lines of steamers, which, however, owing to United 
 States navigation laws governing the coastwise 
 service, can carry neither passengers nor freight 
 to or from the Islands except on payment of a 
 heavy fine. These laws do not apply, fortunately, 
 to the steamers of the Pacific Mail Steamship 
 Company, which is an American line running 
 between San Francisco and the Orient, nor 
 do they apply to the steamers of the Canadian- 
 Australian Steamship Company, which, taking 
 passengers and freight to Vancouver, is not 
 acting as a carrier between two American ports. 
 So far as freight is concerned, these laws 
 are no particular hardship, but they are 
 a serious inconvenience to the passenger traffic, 
 which is larger than can be handled with comfort 
 by American ships. A suspension of the law relat- 
 ing to the carrying of passengers would not be a 
 
k 
 
 :3 
 
 as 
 
'■.:'", 
 
COMMERCE AND INDUSTRY 83 
 
 hardship to American companies and would be, 
 for the Territory, relief from a special burden. It 
 would seem only fair, moreover, since the possi- 
 bility of outlying Territories was not considered 
 when the laws were enacted. With the opening of 
 the Panama Canal the shipping of the Islands 
 must enormously increase. Honolulu will inevita- 
 bly become a great commercial centre, since, being 
 the only available port of call in the North Pacific, 
 it will do an immense business in trans-shipment 
 of freight. As a shipping centre, indeed, it has 
 grown in importance for several years. The ton- 
 nage entered in 1901 was 952,504; in 1911 it was 
 1,343,876, excluding the United States transport 
 service, which is very large. There is every reason 
 to believe that with the opening of the Canal the 
 amount will be immediately doubled or trebled. 
 Steamers from Panama will call at Honolulu for 
 coal and other supplies, and to meet this demand 
 the traffic with California will be much larger. 
 
 As a mercantile centre, -^llKlff^^, the future of 
 Honolulu seems as sure as does the agricultural 
 future of the group. It means a busy port, a 
 meeting ground for the ships and people of all 
 nations, less of the calm always associated with the 
 tropics, more dirt and confusion, but with these 
 disadvantages it means more colour, more of the 
 cosmopolitan life that is so attractive to the^ 
 onlooker. 
 
CHAPTER VI 
 
 HONOLULU 
 
 The American tourist to the Hawaiian Islands 
 will probably take ship at San Francisco, although 
 the steamers from Vancouver are also good. He 
 must remember that from a United States port 
 it is possible to sail to Honolulu only on a ship 
 under American register, unless he has a through 
 ticket to the Orient and plans merely to stop over. 
 The first day or two out of San Francisco are 
 usually cold, so that heavy wraps are essential, 
 but as the rest of the trip is warm, rooms on the 
 starboard side, getting the trade winds, are 
 preferable. 
 
 After the hills of the Coast Range have dropped 
 below the horizon there is almost nothing to see — 
 a whale perhaps, or porpoises, but no land and 
 very rarely a passing ship. But to the man who 
 has never been in the tropics the ocean, so utterly 
 different from the North Atlantic, is a revelation. 
 There usually are no waves, as the Atlantic trav- 
 eller knows waves, but the whole surface of the 
 sea sways gently in great, silent, lazy swells. Day 
 by day the blue grows more intense until it becomes 
 that brilliant, translucent, but seemingly not 
 
 64 
 
HONOLULU 85 
 
 transparent, ultramarine that is seen only in trop- 
 ical waters and that once seen is never forgotten. 
 On the sixth day there comes the restless feeling 
 that one always has on approaching land. The 
 ocean, near the Islands, loses its glassy surface, 
 which, after a long time, is uneasily suggestive of 
 the "painted ocean" in the "Ancient Mariner," 
 ripples again as the ocean should, and breaks into 
 spurts of foam. The cloud-bank ahead finally 
 reveals the land beneath, and one sees the rocky 
 eastern end of the Island of Oahu. To the left ap- 
 pears the long coast line of Molokai, but at no time 
 near enough to be interesting, except as being 
 more land. It is on the Island of Oahu, straight 
 ahead, that attention is riveted, on the barren 
 promontories, at the foot of which the surf marks 
 its feathery, ever changing line. On the point 
 reaching out furthest toward the east stands the 
 magnificent Makapuu Point Light, installed in 
 1909, one of the most powerful lights in the world, 
 and in a position where it is vitally necessary to 
 mariners. All black this land looks, like rude piles 
 of huge volcanic, storm-beaten rocks. The north 
 side of the Island is shrouded with clouds, but, if 
 the day is propitious, as it usually is, the clouds 
 break again and again, revealing distant but en- 
 chanting glimpses of colour — the soft green of 
 cane fields, the vivid yellow of salt grasses along 
 the shore, and the purple blue of the precipitous 
 
86 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 mountains across which the trade wind is blowing 
 masses of sparkling white and silver grey clouds. 
 But these are only glimpses, lost as the steamer 
 approaches the Island and, rounding the Point, 
 proceeds westward along the southern shore. 
 
 Oahu geologically is made up of two ranges of 
 mountains. Those in the southwestern part, the 
 Waianae Mountains, form a group dominated by 
 Kaala (4,040 feet), flat-topped, as though the 
 original volcanic cone had been blown away, as 
 it in fact may have been, since there are still 
 vestiges of an ancient crater. The Koolau Range, 
 forming the backbone of the Island, extends in an 
 unbroken chain from northwest to southeast. On 
 arriving from the north it is the geologically 
 younger end of this range that one sees first, bar- 
 ren because not yet has sufficient time elapsed to 
 allow erosion to do its full work of disintegrating 
 the ancient lava and forming fertile soil. As the 
 steamer rounds Koko Head, long and rounded, like 
 a gigantic mound of desert sand, so named because 
 of its blood-red colour in certain lights — koko 
 means blood in the Hawaiian language — there come 
 into view the shores of the great shallow bay of 
 Waialae. Here, at last, is vegetation. The beach 
 is fringed with cocoanut trees, and a little way 
 back the land rises abruptly, breaking into deep, 
 narrow, fertile valleys and rocky ridges that on 
 their higher slopes lose themselves in the verdure 
 
HONOLULU 87 
 
 of the mountain tops. After a half-hour skirting 
 the coral reef that protects the bay from the great 
 swells of the Pacific, the boat passes another prom- 
 ontory, Leahi, or Diamond Head, and the city of 
 Honolulu comes into sight. 
 
 The tourist knows at last that he is surely in 
 the tropics, knows, too, if he has travelled far, 
 that nowhere is there a more beautiful, peaceful 
 scene. The ocean outside the reef is blue — the 
 same blue that it has been for days, but darker, 
 so deeply dyed that it looks almost opaque, until 
 one gazes straight down and catches the twisted 
 sun rays that are gleaming far below the surface. 
 The reef makes a sharp line of white surf, and 
 beyond it the wide shoals are pink and green and 
 bufF, according to the nature of the sea-bottom and 
 the angle of the light — a brilliant Oriental carpet 
 along the shore. The mile or two of gently rising 
 land between the beach and the spurs of the moun- 
 tains is a mass of trees, the green line of them 
 broken only by the roofs of the houses. This 
 vegetation, a little monotonous in colour, as an 
 artist would have made it to lead from the brilliance 
 of the sea to the still more brilliant mountains, 
 extends from the suburb of Waikiki, clinging about 
 the foot of Diamond Head, past the city itself, 
 westward, until the misty green of cane fields 
 carries it insensibly into the still more misty, pale- 
 bluish purple of the distant Waianae Mountains. 
 
88 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 Back of the city, to right and left, stretches the 
 Koolau range of mountains, not very high (3,105 
 feet is the highest), but seeming higher than is 
 the case because toward the top they rise sharply ; 
 because there is the space of a few miles only from 
 sea level to their crests ; because the quality of the 
 atmosphere and the clouds that hover almost 
 always over and above their summits give them 
 that crystal blue which the mind naturally asso- 
 ciates with far vistas of lofty peaks. It is on the 
 slopes of these mountains that one finds the 
 hot exaggeration of tropical colour — the yellow 
 splotches that are kukui trees, the grey of fern 
 masses, the emerald of ohia and banana trees, made 
 more brilliant through contrast with dashes of 
 brick red earth. 
 
 The picture is never for two days the same. 
 Sometimes there is an opalescent mist that is not 
 really mist, but rather a denser atmosphere which 
 fuses the colours. Occasionally the clouds hang 
 sullenly over the mountains and the water along 
 the shore is black, with streaks of pale green. 
 Another day the trade wind is blowing — and this 
 is true three-quarters of the time — the air sparkles, 
 the mountains shine against a sky clean swept 
 except where the great, lazy, cream-white and 
 pearl-grey clouds, gathering somewhere beyond 
 the hills, pile through the gaps and then make 
 veils of sudden showers high in the valleys, or, 
 
HONOLULU 89 
 
 sailing onward toward the south, disintegrate and 
 disappear. The traveller knows the approach to 
 San Francisco, to Southampton, to Madeira. The 
 first view of Honolulu, as the steamer rounds Dia- 
 mond Head, is in its own way quite equal to these ; 
 remains always in memory as a vision, lovely and 
 radiant and supremely satisfying. 
 
 The harbour of Honolulu is not large. The 
 entrance is 35 feet deep and 400 feet wide; the 
 inner harbour is 35 feet deep and 900 feet wide, 
 but this width is being extended to 1,200 feet. The 
 water is always still. Indeed, the name Honolulu 
 means "the sheltered" and is appropriate, since 
 there are few severe storms and no weather affects 
 the safety of the harbour, which, in consequence, 
 is usually crowded with shipping. As the steamer 
 enters the channel people watch the Japanese and 
 Hawaiian fishing boats, usually dories painted 
 some bright colour, that contrast with the grey 
 tenders of the men-of-war. Near the dock the 
 water is alive with Hawaiian boys swimming about 
 and shouting, ready to dive for nickels and dimes, 
 not one of which do they miss. They are marvel- 
 lously dexterous swimmers and give incoming 
 passengers amusement that is pleasanter and more 
 unusual than looking at the undoubtedly practical 
 but also undoubtedly ugly warehouses and United 
 States Government storehouses which line the 
 shore. Not much more attractive in looks is the 
 
90 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 nearby quarantine station. This, however, is an 
 excellent modern station under Federal control 
 and is capable of caring for SO sick people, 100 
 first cabin and 300 second cabin passengers, 600 
 immigrants, and 1,600 troops. Nor is the dock 
 more suggestive of an exotic tropical city. White 
 linen suits on the men, sometimes the sickly smell 
 of sugar, always Hawaiian women with wreaths — 
 " leis " they are called — of flowers to sell, at least 
 make one realise, however, that one is not landing 
 in a northern port. The piles of coal, the dust, 
 the hurry are alike in all ports where commerce is 
 of more importance than is the sensation-hunting 
 tourist. 
 
 Nor is the first glimpse of the city more reas- 
 suring. Indeed it may as well be admitted that 
 Honolulu is, architecturally, very bad ; that in the 
 business portion, where vines and trees do not hide, 
 the ugliness is sometimes depressing. There are 
 fine modern business blocks, as completely fireproof 
 and as completely uninspired as any in Chicago. 
 Next to them may be low, shoddy wood or brick 
 buildings. Some of the newer buildings, and 
 especially, let it thankfully be said, public build- 
 ings, such as the fire station, built of blue-grey 
 Hawaiian stone, would be pleasant to look at any- 
 where, but in general the business part of the city 
 is in that sad intermediate state which is neither 
 trimly new nor picturesquely old. It pleases only 
 
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HONOLULU 91 
 
 those who live there, and then not aesthetically, but 
 as its growth indicates material progress. This 
 accusation of commonplaceness is true only, how- 
 ever, when one takes the city as a whole. Single 
 glimpses are often wonderfully attractive — the fish 
 market with its piles of gaudy fish, every colour of 
 the rainbow, the different booths presided over by 
 Hawaiians or Orientals ; the sidewalk on Hotel 
 Street, lined with Hawaiian flower-sellers with 
 their basketfuls of cut flowers and their leis of 
 every colour, laid in rows on the sidewalk ; or some 
 queer comer giving a vista up the Nuuanu stream ; 
 or some little wooden house lost under a great mass 
 of bougainvillea. These, fortunately, are the 
 things which one never forgets. In a month the 
 commonplaceness is gone, but the beauty and the 
 strangeness remain. 
 
 Honolulu, a city of about 50,000 inhabitants, 
 stretches for several miles on the narrow plain 
 between sea and mountains, reaches up into the 
 valleys, and sometimes actually climbs the steep 
 hillsides. The most thickly settled portion is on 
 the slopes of Punch Bowl — so named from the 
 shape of its crater — a comparatively recent cone, 
 500 feet high, thrown up by some expiring volcanic 
 action between the spurs of the mountains and the 
 ocean. At its base, a little to the westward, lies 
 the business portion of the city; huddled on its 
 higher slopes is the Portuguese settlement ; to the 
 
Q^ HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 east, as far as the suburb oif Waikiki, and to the 
 west, in the mouth of Nuuanu Valley and beyond 
 in parts of the Palama region, are the houses of 
 the better class of citizens. One who intends to 
 stay more than a day or two in Honolulu should 
 drive as soon as possible to the top of this hill, 
 because from here one can get the best idea of the 
 topography of city and surrounding country. 
 
 The streets, in so far as the uneven character 
 of the land permits, are laid out at right angles. 
 Fort Street and Nuuanu Avenue running from 
 the sea toward the mountains, and King, Hotel, 
 and Beretania* Streets, more or less parallel to 
 the coast, give, as being the principal thorough- 
 fares, sufficient indication of the street plan. All, 
 after leaving the business centre, pass between 
 luxuriant gardens, which are never shut in by 
 walls, but are enclosed only by low hedges, usually 
 of red flowering hibiscus. In many parts of the 
 city the streets are bordered with tropical flower- 
 ing trees that are a glory in the late spring months. 
 An admirable electric car service covers the entire 
 district of Honolulu, traversing or crossing all 
 the main streets. 
 
 This car service, which makes distance unimpor- 
 tant, makes also less important the situation of 
 the hotel chosen by the tourist. In the city 
 proper the Young Hotel, a modem stone building, 
 •The Hawaiian word for Britannia. 
 
HONOLULU 95 
 
 and the Royal Hawaiian, standing in its own little 
 tropical garden, are the best. There are good 
 hotels also at Waikiki, and these, with the Pleas- 
 anton, near the mouth of Manoa Valley, are to 
 be recommended for a prolonged stay. The Pleas- 
 anton, a residence that has been converted into 
 a hotel, is surrounded by large and really beautiful 
 grounds.* 
 
 Of public buildings the first in importance is 
 the Executive Building, formerly the Royal Pal- 
 ace. This stands near the centre of the city, on 
 King Street, in its own open park. It is used now 
 as the offices of the Governor and of Territorial 
 officials and contains also the chambers of the 
 Senate and House of Representatives. Built in 
 1880 of blocks of concrete, much over-ornamented, 
 to suit the King's ideas of beauty, it follows no 
 recognised style of architecture, would be in any 
 northern city amazingly ugly, but standing alone 
 as it does, with no other buildings as contrast, ap- 
 proached on all four sides by short avenues of 
 superb royal palms, surrounded by splendid great 
 trees and gay shrubs, cream-coloured, its wide, 
 cool galleries giving an effect of lightness, it has 
 an appropriateness that makes it almost beauti- 
 ful. It is best on public holidays, when flags and 
 bunting, flowers and brightly dressed women give 
 the effect of gaiety that it so often had years ago 
 ♦For list of hotels and prices see Appendix, pp. 231, 232. 
 
94 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 when the King held public receptions or enter- 
 tained his friends at native feasts. One could 
 never take the little Court quite seriously and 
 the impermanent " World's Fair " quality of the 
 building that so suited the playing at royalty and 
 that still suits the sunshine of the tropics, makes 
 it less suitable as the theatre of legislative squab- 
 bles and as the source of heavily serious guberna- 
 torial messages. It was as the palace of a king, 
 unimportant in the world's sight but immensely 
 important in his own, that the building's outward 
 purport was best fulfilled. The interior has dig- 
 nity. The entrance hall, with its portraits of 
 kings and queens and princes, is simple and stately^ 
 as is the excellently proportioned Chamber of 
 Representatives, formerly the throne-room, at the 
 right of the hall. The dining-room, reception- 
 rooms, and bedrooms have been changed beyond 
 recognition in being remodelled to suit office needs. 
 Around this building centres much of the later 
 history of the Islands. It was the scene of the 
 insurrection of 1889. On its steps the body of 
 King Kalakaua, brought home from San Fran- 
 cisco, was met by the Queen Dowager and the new 
 Queen, Liliuokalani. Here, in January, 1893, the 
 Queen, after dissolving the legislature, let it be 
 known that she was about to promulgate a new 
 constitution — the fact which was the immediate 
 cause of the revolution that resulted in the estab- 
 
HONOLULU 95 
 
 lishment of the Republic. Here, in her old throne- 
 room, in 1895, the Queen was tried for treason. 
 Here to-day the Territorial laws are enacted. 
 
 Opposite the Executive Building stands the 
 Court House, formerly the Government Building, 
 where the legislature of the Kingdom held its ses- 
 sions. The Court House is a long, two-story build- 
 ing, its two wings connected by verandas lined 
 with Ionic columns. In front, among the palm 
 trees, stands the statue of Kamehameha I, a spear 
 in his hand, the cloak of royal yellow feathers over 
 his shoulder, and a helmet of feathers on his head. 
 The original bronze, of which this is a replica, was 
 lost at sea, but years later was recovered and sold 
 to the Hawaiian Government. It now appropri- 
 ately stands in Kohala, on the Island of Hawaii, 
 the last home of the great King. These two, the 
 Executive Building and the Court House, make 
 the official centre of the city, and, with their sur- 
 roundings, it would be fair to say the picturesque 
 centre as well. 
 
 A few steps to the east stands Kawaiahao 
 Church, with the mausoleum of King Lunalilo be- 
 side it. This church is the impressive monument 
 of the early missionary labour. It was dedicated 
 in 1842 and was the royal chapel until the coming 
 of the English Mission twenty years later. Built 
 of blocks of coral, it is in shape a rectangle. Over 
 the main entrance is a low, square tower, which 
 
96 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 used to have an inappropriate wooden spire. 
 White, surrounded with huge algaroba trees, 
 through the filmy leaves of which perpetual sun- 
 light plays, it typifies in its Puritanic dignity 
 and rigorous simplicity the lasting work of its 
 founders. Behind it, in a cemetery as unpreten- 
 tious as they were themselves, most of these found- 
 ers are buried. Beyond, in the section of the town 
 formerly known as the Mission, what remain of 
 their houses are clustered. One of these, the Cooke 
 homestead, which was the first frame house built 
 in the Islands, is now a missionary museum. The 
 Castle homestead, greatly enlarged from the 
 original, one-story plaster cottage, is now used 
 by the Y. W. C. A. Whatever one may think 
 of missionary work in general, whatever absurd 
 tales one may hear of the self-seeking of these par- 
 ticular missionaries, the imagination and the heart 
 must be touched by this plain old church and these 
 pathetic little old houses where, nearly a hundred 
 years ago, a band of devoted men and women, 
 desperately poor, separated by six months from 
 home and friends, gave up their lives to what they 
 believed was God's work. That their children and 
 their grandchildren chose, most of them, to remain 
 in this land of their birth and to enter secular 
 life; that they have largely guided politics and 
 business, has been a lasting blessing to the Islands. 
 Their presence only has made the people capable 
 
HONOLULU 97 
 
 of becoming normally and naturally American 
 citizens. 
 
 Kawaiahao, which still has the largest Hawaiian 
 congregation in the Islands, and where the serv- 
 ices are still conducted in the Hawaiian language, 
 is the only church in Honolulu built in a style 
 characteristic of the tropics, a style which should 
 be equally characteristic of Honolulu. Central 
 Union (corner Beretania and Richards Streets), 
 a non-sectarian church, the place of worship of 
 most of the descendants of the missionaries, and 
 the strongest numerically and financially in the 
 city, is built of grey-blue native stone, but is 
 architecturally characteristic of a New England 
 town during the period, about twenty or thirty 
 years ago, when buildings were most unprepos- 
 sessing. St. Andrew's Cathedral (Emma Street), 
 formerly the property of the Church of England 
 and the seat of an English bishop, who was Royal 
 Chaplain, now under a bishop of the American 
 Episcopal Church, is a simple and beautiful build- 
 ing in a style which people are pleased to call 
 Victorian Gothic. The Roman Catholic Cathedral 
 (Fort Street) is a plain, square stone building, 
 which is rapidly being ruined in appearance by 
 the application on the outside of what is believed 
 to be Gothic ornamentation. Like all small Ameri- 
 can cities, Honolulu has, too, meeting-houses rep- 
 resenting most of the normal and abnormal of 
 
98 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 the Christian denominations. With one or two 
 exceptions these buildings are unsubstantial and 
 hideous, but are fortunately inconspicuous. 
 
 The excellent school system of the city is ap- 
 propriately housed. The public grammar and 
 high school buildings, most of them comparatively 
 new, are built according to approved methods of 
 school-house construction, and in their outward 
 appearance suggest a hopeful reaction in the direc- 
 tion of suitable architecture. They are long, low, 
 and cool-looking, in a style adapted from the Span- 
 ish, which is admirably suited to the surroundings. 
 One older school is established in the Bishop home- 
 stead on Emma Street, the house where Mrs. 
 Bishop, the last of the royal line of Kamehameha, 
 died in 1884. It has not been changed and still 
 looks like an expensive private house of forty 
 years ago, but is worth a visit because of its 
 historic associations and because of the beauty of 
 its grounds. A little further up the same street, 
 opposite the gloriously tropical gardens of Judge 
 Dole, are the plain wooden buildings of the old 
 royal school where formerly the chiefs were edu- 
 cated. 
 
 Mrs. Bishop, who was the finest type of Ha- 
 waiian woman, refused the throne to which she 
 was heir and at her death left her large property 
 for educational purposes. It has been used in 
 building the Kamehameha School for Hawaiians, 
 
HONOLULU 99 
 
 situated about two miles west of the city. Mr. 
 Bishop, a man of power, charm, and loyalty, has 
 supplemented her gift by adding to the school 
 equipment a biological laboratory, by generous 
 endowment, and by building the great Museum. 
 Kamehameha is a semi-military school, with a 
 membership of about 250 Hawaiian and partly 
 Hawaiian boys. Across the street from the boys' 
 school is situated a girls' school, with about 125 
 pupils. The large group of buildings of native 
 stone, the walls covered with vines, would com- 
 pare favourably with the buildings of any Ameri- 
 can school, and in their setting of trees, with the 
 nearby mountains as a background, are unique. 
 Here the boys are taught trades as well as ele- 
 mentary subjects. To see them marching to chapel 
 in the morning, neat and manly in their grey 
 uniforms, to watch them working at their desfcs or 
 in the lathe or forge shops, or playing football 
 on the campus, makes one understand why it is 
 that the school turns out the most useful class of 
 native citizens. 
 
 Another school or group of schools primarily 
 for Hawaiians is the Mid-Pacific Institute, situ- 
 ated in Manoa Valley. The best known of this 
 group is the Kawaiahao Seminary, now established 
 in a large building of rough stone in a high, cool 
 site, which is in every way preferable to the old 
 situation an King Street, near Kawaiahao Church. 
 
100 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 This school was started by the missionaries and 
 has educated many of the best Hawaiian women. 
 Another school in this group is the Mills Institute, 
 established about twenty-five years ago by Mr. F. 
 W. Damon for the education of Chinese and 
 Japanese youth. It has now broadened its scope 
 to cover other nationalities. The Mid-Pacific In- 
 stitute, which represents work of a semi-missionary 
 character, occupies about 75 acres of land, and 
 will probably establish other schools for the study 
 of theology and mission work. 
 
 Only one other school need be mentioned, Oahu 
 College, or, as it is familiarly called, Punahou, 
 situated on Punahou Street, at the mouth of 
 Manoa Valley. The city has grown out and sur- 
 rounded it now, but when the school was started 
 by the missionaries for the education of their chil- 
 dren and the children of other foreigners in the 
 Islands it was well out in the country. At Puna- 
 hou most of the girls and boys who go to American 
 colleges are prepared. It sends every year stu- 
 dents to Harvard, Yale, the University of Cali- 
 fornia, and elsewhere. The school has well- 
 equipped buildings in a park of 90 acres. The 
 great algaroba trees at the entrance are the finest 
 in Honolulu; there are beautiful avenues of royal 
 palms ; a pond of wonderful pink and blue water 
 lilies ; orchards of various tropical fruits ; and all 
 this in one of the coolest situations near the city. 
 
HONOLULU 101 
 
 On the hill back is the splendid athletic field where 
 most of the football and baseball games of the city 
 are played, a spot where spectators can look from 
 the game over the plains to the sea and to Dia- 
 mond Head. 
 
 A building of real interest, constructed of brown 
 tufa stone from Punch Bowl and surrounded by 
 striking gardens, is Lunalilo House. This was 
 established by bequest of King Lunalilo as a home 
 for aged and indigent Hawaiians, and here about 
 a hundred of them live on and on. Some are blind ; 
 some deaf; all are decrepit. They sit in the sun 
 under the palm trees and talk of times seventy 
 years ago, quarrel happily and vociferously, and 
 sometimes marry — these octogenarians and nono- 
 genarians. They have plenty to eat, comfortable 
 quarters, a weekly excursion to church in an omni- 
 bus, and, life having become something nearly 
 approximate to Heaven, they see no valid reason 
 for changing their state. Not seldom do they 
 pass the century mark and many remember, or 
 claim to remember, the death of the first Kame- 
 hameha. 
 
 Another monument to the generosity of a sov- 
 ereign is the Queen's Hospital, near the centre of 
 the city. In 1859, by large donations and by 
 personal solicitation of Kamehameha IV and Queen 
 Emma, the money for this institution was raised. 
 It is well worth a visit on account of the beauty 
 
102 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 of its grounds, which are almost a jungle of 
 tropical growth and contain many uncommon 
 plants. The winding avenue of date palms could 
 not be surpassed, and directly behind the palms 
 are masses of most luxuriant and often sweet- 
 smelling vegetation. If one could only look out 
 from the jungle on wastes of golden sand instead 
 of on busy streets it would be easy to imagine one- 
 self in Count Landon's garden in Biskra. 
 
 There are in Honolulu two public collections of 
 the highest importance and interest, the Bishop 
 Museum at Kamehameha School and the Aquarium 
 at Waikiki. The Museum, covering all aspects of 
 the islands of the Pacific, zoological, geographical, 
 ethnological, and historical, has become, under the 
 able management of Mr. William T. Brigham, 
 one of the great world museums. Its collections, 
 which are admirably arranged, are of incompa- 
 rable value to the student of science, and — which 
 is not always the case — are keenly interesting to 
 the layman. Here one sees the ancient royal re- 
 galia, superb yellow feather cloaks and helmets, 
 as well as kahilis, the great feather standards of 
 every colour, which were the insignia of rank. 
 These regalia, which had been inherited by Mrs. 
 Bishop, formed the nucleus of the Museum collec- 
 tions. Passing from the room where these are, one 
 sees weapons of all kinds ; implements of stone and 
 of wood and of bone ; life-sized groups illustrating 
 
HONOLULU lOS 
 
 the tenacious but nevertheless passing customs of 
 the Hawaiians, as well as the life of other Pacific 
 islands ; innumerable birds, many of them extinct ; 
 land-shells with their exquisite colouring; speci- 
 mens of flora and of fauna. The Museum is dis- 
 tinctly divided into a Hawaiian and a Polynesian 
 section, but the collections are being so rapidly 
 augmented and are so often changed that no guide 
 can be given. There are attendants to show people 
 about and there are handbooks. The Museum is 
 open daily, except Sunday, and ought not to be 
 omitted by any one who is visiting Honolulu. 
 
 In its more limited way, the Aquarium at Wai- 
 kiki — open every day — is of equal interest. It is 
 said to be second in importance to the aquarium at 
 Naples, but certainly far surpasses it in the 
 beauty of its collection. The fish are indescrib- 
 ably beautiful, and some of them — which is one 
 of the delights of an aquarium — are indescribably 
 funny in their actions and in their expressions. 
 And the queer Hawaiian names also are sometimes 
 amusing. One queer little fish, for example, is 
 named the Humiihumunuikunukeapuaa. The bril- 
 liance of their colours, the extraordinary blending 
 and striping and spotting, seemingly impossible 
 in their combinations, yet always resulting in har- 
 mony, might well be ^ the life study of an artist, 
 whether sane or " futuriste." One feels that these 
 
104 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 fish have absorbed all the vivid colours of the sun- 
 shot tropical sea which was their home. 
 
 The Aquarium is at the edge of Kapiolani Park. 
 Here there are charming drives and walks along 
 palm-lined avenues, between canals and ponds filled 
 with red and white and blue and pink water lilies 
 or with masses of the pale lavender water hyacinth, 
 across rustic bridges to little islands dotted with 
 fan palms, between masses of brilliant-leaved cro- 
 tons or of hibiscus or of oleanders. And always 
 through the trees there are glimpses of the distant 
 blue mountains, always, when the wind is at rest, 
 there is the murmur of the sea. The park covers 
 about 125 acres, and with proper financial support 
 could be made one of the loveliest gardens in exist- 
 ence. As it is, it looks and is unkempt; many of 
 the plants are allowed to spread too much and are 
 not properly cared for, but no lack of care can 
 destroy the colour of the flowers nor the charm 
 of the frame. The city controls other smaller 
 parks, but in the tropics, where every house, how- 
 ever humble, has its garden, there is not the im- 
 perative need for breathing space that there is 
 in most cities, and as down-town parks Thomas 
 Square, of five or six acres, and Emma Square, of 
 hardly more than an acre, serve as public gardens 
 and places for band concerts. The other public 
 parks are laid out, therefore, primarily as play- 
 grounds and athletic fields. 
 
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HONOLULU 105 
 
 Private gardens line all the streets, their lux- 
 uriant trees and shrubbery happily masking the 
 houses themselves, most of which make no pretense 
 to anything but comfort. People live out of doors, 
 and the result is that broad vine-covered verandas 
 or " lanais " — the Hawaiian term is used univer- 
 sally — are the most noticeable and characteristic 
 features of many of the houses. The glory of the 
 gardens is their palms — royal palms and dates 
 principally, but also wine palms and fan palms — 
 and their flowering trees. In the spring the Poin- 
 ciana regia makes huge flaming umbrellas of orange 
 or scarlet or crimson ; the Golden Shower, some- 
 times a stately tree, is hung with its thousands 
 of loose clusters of yellow bells ; the Cacia nodessa 
 spreads its great sheaves of shellpink and white 
 blossoms like a glorified apple-tree; the Pride of 
 India is a mist of lavender. But at all times of 
 the year these trees look well, and in addition to 
 them there are gigantic banyans throwing cool 
 purple masses of shade ; algarobas with their feath- 
 ery leaves through which the sunlight is pleasantly 
 diluted and the insignificant flowers of which sup- 
 ply the tons of honey exported annually to Eng- 
 land. Near the coast the ancient indigenous hao, 
 half-tree, half-creeper, builds natural summer- 
 houses. So thickly does this tree grow that there 
 is fantastic truth in Mark Twain's statement that 
 when the hao is massed at the foot of a low cliff 
 
106 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 cattle walk from the clifF brink into its topmost 
 branches and roost comfortably, like hens. Nor 
 is there altogether falsehood in his other state- 
 ment that the cocoanut-trees which fringe Ha- 
 waiian shores look like feather-dusters struck by 
 lightning. They do, and yet no tree is more 
 stately than this slender spire, crowned high in 
 the air with its cluster of graceful leaves. Stories 
 of monkeys throwing down the nuts are only 
 untrue because there are no monkeys. The Ha- 
 waiians, however, run up the trees almost as 
 monkeys would to gather the fruit. The vines in 
 Honolulu are no less striking than are the flower- 
 ing trees and are in bloom more continuously. 
 Bougainvillea, magenta or brick-red or cherry 
 colour, grows to the tops of the highest trees and 
 makes mounds of colour over many an unsightly 
 barn; the bignonia grows as an impenetrable cur- 
 tain of brilliant orange ; there are walls of purple 
 or yellow alamander ; the " yellow vine," another 
 bignonia, climbing high into the trees, drops its 
 long, restless fringes of lemon-yellow flowers ; the 
 less common beaumontia holds up its pearl-white 
 cups, pencilled with pink on the outside, each as 
 large as a teacup. Other less noticeable vines, such 
 as the ivory stephanotis and ylang-ylang, make the 
 air about them heavy with their sweetness. And 
 beneath all these the shrubs add still other colours. 
 The hibiscus is cultivated as nowhere else, many 
 
HONOLULU 107 
 
 working over it as the Dutch work over their 
 tulips. The commonest form is the single scarlet, 
 but there are single pink and white and yellow 
 flowers, and others cut like coral and of the shade 
 of coral. There are double ones, too, of pale 
 chrome or vivid gold, or of pink, and white, and 
 crimson like finest peonies. There are shrubs of 
 all descriptions with coloured foliage; there are 
 plumarias of white or orange-yellow growing out 
 of bare branches that look like cactus ; there are 
 oleanders of all colours, and poinsettias that grow 
 to the size of small trees. The stone wall around 
 two sides of Oahu College is covered thickly with 
 night-blooming cereus, and the spectacle on a 
 moonlight night when thousands of the great white 
 flowers are open at once is indescribably beautiful. 
 Only the normal garden flowers are rare, and this 
 not through any fault of soil or climate — Honolulu 
 used to rival California in its roses — but because 
 of plant pests that have been introduced from 
 Japan and the American continent. These are 
 gradually being controlled, and within a few years 
 every Honolulu garden will again be a garden of 
 roses. Still, there are asters the year round, car- 
 nations by the million, most of the annuals, gladi- 
 oli, and lilies, so one is not at a loss to find flowers 
 for the house. 
 
 Perhaps the best of these private gardens are 
 those along Nuuanu Avenue, which was settled 
 
108 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 early, and those in the vicinity of Oahu College, 
 although this general division does not mean that 
 there are not good gardens in all parts of the 
 city. One of the most satisfactory places, from 
 the picturesque point of view, is Washington Place, 
 the home of the Queen, near the Hawaiian Hotel. 
 It surpasses most because the hjmse is as good 
 as the garden, and both express the tropics. 
 The house has wide lanais, supported by high 
 white columns, something in the Southern colonial 
 style, and is simple and dignified. Around it are 
 great trees that shut away the street, that keep 
 the house always cool. The whole has an air of 
 retirement expressive of the attitude of the Queen 
 herself. 
 
 There are everywhere beautiful single gardens, 
 stately avenues of royal palms, masses of colour, 
 but what the visitor carries away as something 
 which can never be forgotten is not the impression 
 so much of any single spot as of the whole ; of one 
 great garden where many men have built their 
 habitations — a garden in an amphitheatre of 
 glorious mountains over which march columns of 
 clouds that gleam white against the blue of the 
 sky ; a garden looking out over a shining, tropical 
 ocean, peaceful, happy in the sunshine; an oasis, 
 small but perfect, in the immense desert of the 
 Pacific. 
 
CHAPTER VII 
 
 OAHU 
 
 The Island of Oahu, halfway between Kauai and 
 Maui, contains 598 square miles and is the third 
 in size of the group. The shore line is extremely 
 irregular and the Island, therefore, has more har- 
 bours than any of the others. The low coastal 
 plains are usually uplifted coral reefs and there is 
 also much growing coral around the Island. There 
 are two mountain ranges, one running the length 
 of the Island from northwest to southeast, the 
 other forming the southwestern portion. These 
 ranges, very differently affected by erosion, give 
 varied scenery. Honolulu, the only important 
 town, is the natural centre for excursions, most of 
 which can be made in half a day or a day by 
 carriage or by automobile.* 
 
 First to be seen are some of the many valleys 
 cutting the leeward slope of the principal moun- 
 tain range, valleys of infinite variety, and all 
 beautiful. Of these the most accessible and thor- 
 oughly characteristic are Manoa, the first valley 
 to the east, and Nuuanu, back of the city. Manoa 
 
 *For prices, which are regulated by law, see Appendix, 
 p. 233. 
 
 109 
 
no HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 is very broad, with an undulating floor running 
 back to the base of the mountains, which rise 
 abruptly. Konahuanui (3,105 feet), at the left, 
 is the highest peak of the range, and Olympus — 
 unfortunate misnomer — at the right, appears only 
 a little lower. From the mountains long ridges 
 descend gently to the plain, the sides of the valley, 
 however, being steep and rocky. The lower part 
 of Manoa, which is reached by the electric cars, is 
 being rapidly built over, but beyond the houses 
 are taro patches, groves of banana, masses of 
 wild guava, and jungles of lantana. Nothing could 
 be more serenely lovely than the semicircle of 
 mountains, the green of all tints — ^yellow of kukui, 
 neutral of lehua and ferns, and emerald of ohia — 
 shading into blue as the hills rise higher. The 
 trade wind clouds drifting across the summits dis- 
 perse in misty showers that keep the valley always 
 fresh and yet hardly obscure the sunlight. 
 
 Very different is Nuuanu Valley. This is a nar- 
 row cut through the mountains, affording the only 
 route, except that around the coast, to the wind- 
 ward side of the Island. An excellent road winds 
 up the valley; after it leaves the lower, inhabited 
 part, between fields of long grass that ripple in 
 the wind like waves, between lines of tropical trees 
 and rocks overgrown by vines. Behind there is 
 always the ocean and on either side, and ahead. 
 
OAHU 111 
 
 the mountains, apparently blocking the way. 
 After a rain hundreds of miniature waterfalls 
 spray over the sides of the valley, only to be 
 blown away before reaching the bottom. Quite 
 suddenly, about six miles from the city, one reaches 
 the Pali, the precipice 1,600 feet high, over which 
 the conqueror Kamehameha drove the army of 
 the King of Oahu. On turning a sharp corner the 
 south side of the Island is gone and one looks down 
 on the windward coast. It is one of the most 
 unexpected and amazingly beautiful views in the 
 world. The narrow northern coastal plain is but- 
 tressed on one side by the abrupt precipitous mass 
 I of mountains, and on the other is washed by the 
 sea. Little islands along the shore break the even 
 surface of the water. The plain is dark with wild 
 |; guava bushes, or tinted by the yellow-green of 
 cane fields, or checkered with the grey of pine- 
 ipples, or cut with great red gashes where the 
 irth is exposed. The mountains reach on and on, 
 it first bare, bleak precipices, then torn into som- 
 ire gorges, deep purple-blue, forbidding and fasci- 
 lating. One looks and looks, and the colours shift, 
 id the islets glow more brightly or are blurred 
 ►r an instant in a sudden spray of rain, and the 
 ;a changes ceaselessly like a great opal, and the 
 |urf makes white, waving fringes on the yellow 
 md. Gradually one becomes conscious that the 
 road, which seemed suddenly to end, continues 
 
112 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 down the mountains, cut in tortuous line around 
 the precipices. And then one inevitably goes on a 
 little further in order to look back and so to 
 get the full, overwhelming impression of the tower- 
 ing cliffs. Little mountains these are, when com- 
 pared to the Alps, and yet in all Switzerland there 
 is no view more wonderful, more varied, more 
 memorable than this, because there is no view 
 that more stirs the imagination. Later, when the 
 scene has become a memory, one asks oneself why 
 this is, and the answer is, perhaps, the Sea. The 
 far, naked horizon, the tireless surge of the waters, 
 the consciousness that for four thousand miles to 
 the north and to the west there is nothing but this 
 endless, breathing ocean — the power of it; and 
 against this seemingly resistless force only the 
 ragged volcanic mountains of a lonely island, 
 breasting winds and waves. There is something 
 to inspire in the thought. And then, if it was 
 afternoon, the sun shot golden spears of light 
 through the clouds over the western mountains, 
 making the plain between the dark gorges and the 
 sea all radiant, and the gold glimmered on the 
 waves. So later one can realise that, after all, 
 it is not the conflict, but the harmony of these 
 elemental forces that is so impressive. 
 
 No view in Oahu is as spectacularly beautiful, 
 as stirring, as that sudden vision from the Pali. 
 
OAHU 113 
 
 Others are as lovely, more peaceful, perhaps more 
 permanently satisfying. Pre-eminent among these 
 is the prospect from Mt. Tantalus, back of 
 Honolulu, where people are beginning to build 
 summer cottages. From behind Punch Bowl the 
 road (not open to automobiles) winds upward 
 along the lower ridges, which have been reforested 
 with eucalyptus, Australian wattle, and other 
 trees, skirts the last steep cone of the mountain, 
 and loses itself in the native forest, almost a 
 jungle, that covers a maze of tiny valleys and 
 old volcanic cones. From the slopes of Tantalus 
 one gets the whole sweep of ocean from Diamond 
 Head, and beyond, to Barber's Point, the southern 
 end of the Island. Just below. Punch Bowl holds 
 up its empty crater. West and east from the 
 city stretch the undulating plains with their diver- 
 sity of vegetation. Far to the right is the silver 
 line of Pearl Harbour, and beyond it the faint 
 blue mass of the Waianae Mountains. Through 
 trees on the nearer ridges Diamond Head stands 
 out, yellow-brown against the metallic blue of the 
 sea. From almost everywhere one sees it — this 
 hill guarding the eastern approach — low, long, and 
 kindly, dignified as an ancient, titanic lion asleep, 
 its forepaws washed by the waves. One grows to 
 love it and to look for it as the key-note and 
 index of every view. At the Pali an hour at a 
 time is enough. It is a framed picture, clear-cut 
 
114. HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 and masterly in the drawing, exciting to the im- 
 agination, but finally almost tiring in its perfec- 
 tion. The view from Tantalus has no frame 
 except the horizon. One looks away from the 
 mountains but feels them as a background. There 
 is always something new to be discovered in the 
 picture. There is a serenity about it that is 
 infinitely restful. Jean Jacques Rousseau would 
 have sobbed violently and loudly at the Pali. On 
 Tantalus he would have smiled, if he knew how to 
 smile, or if tears were his inevitable method of 
 expression, they would at least have been silent, 
 happy tears. 
 
 There are many drives or automobile trips to 
 be made near Honolulu. One, passing through 
 Waikiki, follows the corniche road around Dia- 
 mond Head, to Waialae, with its excellent school 
 for boys who cannot afford the tuition fee at 
 Punahou, its wild and beautiful valley (only to be 
 reached on horseback), and its great cocoanut 
 groves ; then back through the new residence dis- 
 trict of Kaimuki. Good roads lead into some of 
 the valleys and to the new residence sections on the 
 heights to the west and the east of the city. A 
 delightful drive is westward to Moanalua, with 
 its queer little twin craters, one half-filled by a 
 salt lake, its rice fields, its excellent polo ground, 
 and its gardens, one of which, that of Mr. S. M. 
 Damon, is large, admirably laid out, and well kept, 
 
OAHU 115 
 
 and IS often open to the public, as are the great 
 private gardens of Italy. 
 
 The railway that will eventually make the cir- 
 cuit of the Island, after leaving Honolulu, passes 
 through Moanalua, cuts across the cane fields of 
 the Honolulu Plantation, makes almost the circuit 
 of Pearl Harbour, passes Oahu and Ewa Planta- 
 tions, rounds Barber's Point, and, from Waianae, 
 follows the western shore of the Island through 
 Waialua to Kahuku, the northwestern point, and 
 then, turning eastward, ends about ten miles be- 
 yond the point. From the windows of the train 
 (the left-hand side is best) one gets as good an idea 
 of this part of the Island as can be obtained on a 
 three-hour railroad trip. A few miles from Hono- 
 lulu one reaches Pearl Harbour, with its ten or 
 more square miles of deep water, perhaps the finest 
 land-locked harbour in the world. Its shores are 
 low, deeply indented, sloping gradually upward 
 at the north and west. In places the cane fields 
 extend to the very edge of the water. In places 
 there are bits of almost barren plain where only 
 lantana grows — the pest of the Islands, that on 
 the mainland is so tenderly cultivated in many 
 a garden for the sake of its pretty mauve and 
 pink or white and scarlet flowers. In the harbour 
 are low islands, bare, or spotted with trees and 
 occasional houses. On the flat eastern banks are 
 the government buildings, barracks and shops, and 
 
116 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 the great drydock. On the Peninsula, in the 
 western part of the harbour, is a colony of 
 summer cottages, each with its trees and garden, 
 where many Honolulu people go for week-ends to 
 enjoy the excellent bathing and boating. Noth- 
 ing could be prettier than the view from here, across 
 the still water, dotted with sailboats and canoes 
 and, now that the dredging of the entrance has 
 been finished, bearing great grey battleships and 
 cruisers ; across the water to the cloud-capped 
 mountains beyond the cane fields, and far to the 
 eastward Diamond Head, distant but still beauti- 
 ful, jutting into the sea. 
 
 From Pearl Harbour the train cuts across 
 the broad cane fields of the Ewa Plantation, 
 fields that in the flowering season are a sea of 
 waving pale violet plumes, like feathery pampas 
 flowers. The huge mill and pumping stations of 
 the plantation may be visited. Beyond, on the 
 barren plains that slope upward to the Waianae 
 Mountains, there are fields of sisal, each plant 
 looking like a rosette of spears protruding from 
 the ground. Through scrub algaroba forests, 
 where honey bees are raised, the railroad passes 
 around the southern end of the Island to a very 
 narrow plain, sometimes hardly more than a cause- 
 way between mountains and ocean, and across the 
 mouths of broad valleys which run deep into the 
 heart of the range. In these valleys is grown 
 
OAHU 117 
 
 most of the cane of the Waianae Plantation. At 
 the end of the mountains, on the western sea, is 
 Waialua, a pretty little village between the two 
 ranges, where, on the beach, a delightful hotel 
 serves good luncheons and provides clean, com- 
 fortable quarters for those who can stay a few 
 days to enjoy the splendid surf bathing or to go 
 goat or wild turkey shooting in the mountains. 
 The view of Kaala, with its surrounding peaks 
 and gorges, is very good from the beach in front 
 of Haleiwa Hotel. The Waialua Plantation is 
 large and is, for Oahu, unusually picturesque on 
 account of the hills and ravines over which the 
 cane grows. The ditch which carries water from 
 the mountains, and the reservoir supplying it, are 
 an interesting piece of engineering work. 
 
 Beyond Waialua, again along the narrow sea- 
 board, the surf dashes almost to the windows of 
 the cars. The mountains, not so high, are more 
 mugged and barren. Over the rocks in one place, 
 however, one catches a glimpse of the tops 
 of rubber trees, part of a young plantation. 
 Along the rocky shore Hawaiian fishermen 
 are often seen, bronze in colour, dressed only 
 in the ancient loin cloth, casting their nets 
 into the waves. They come probably from 
 Waimea, where, in a valley a few miles beyond 
 Waialua, is one of the few remaining primitive 
 
118 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 Hawaiian settlements. In this valley two mem- 
 bers of Vancouver's party, Lieutenant Hargest 
 and Mr. Gooch, an astronomer, were murdered. 
 Their ship had stopped for water and the two had 
 wandered inland to explore the country. It was 
 at a time (1792) when the Hawaiians were par- 
 ticularly bitter against foreigners. The little 
 valley, with its ruined temple and its grass houses, 
 is more typical of Hawaii before 1800 than any- 
 thing in the Island. The air grows cooler as the 
 hills recede, the breeze fresher, until, at the north 
 point of the Island, there is a steady, strong wind 
 blowing in across the ocean from the northeast, a 
 wind full of life, a sea wind, purer than any other. 
 It tatters the leaves of the cane on the Kahuku 
 Plantation, but does not hurt the cane itself, and 
 the moisture of it brings out all the colours in 
 trees and flowers. The manager of the plantation 
 is a New England man, and back of his house are 
 masses of wonderful hollyhocks, almost the only 
 ones on the Island. 
 
 The automobile road from Honolulu around the 
 Island follows the line of the railroad to Kahuku, 
 except from Pearl Harbour to Waialua, where, 
 instead of following the coast, it crosses the 
 plateau between the two mountain ranges. Here, 
 at an altitude of about 1,000 feet, are stationed 
 U. S. Cavalry and Infantry quarters, and at 
 almost all hours of the day troops may be seen 
 
OAHU 119 
 
 drilling on some part of the plain. On the other 
 side of the road from the encampment are thou- 
 sands of acres of pineapples, the fruit from which 
 is sent to all parts of the world. Further on, the 
 road climbs down and up again through grim, 
 barren gorges that have been torn out by centuries 
 of sudden rainstorms. The largest of these gulches 
 is Kipapa, the scene of one of the bloodiest of 
 ancient battles. Beyond the dam which holds back 
 the water for the Waialua Plantation the road 
 descends in long turns to the Haleiwa Hotel, and 
 from here to Kahuku follows once more the line 
 of the railroad. 
 
 The northern point of the Island marks the end 
 of the first half of the one-day automobile trip of 
 ninety miles around this part of the Island. It 
 is, perhaps, the more varied, but certainly the 
 less beautiful half of a trip that in European 
 guidebooks would be double starred. Six miles 
 beyond Kahuku the road passes Laie, the Mormon 
 settlement. Several hundred Mormons live here, 
 most of them Hawaiians, who raise sugar cane to 
 be ground at the Kahuku mill, and who practise 
 their religion more strictly in accord with the civil 
 law than is reputed to be the case among the 
 Mormons in Utah. The coast soon becomes nar- 
 rower; the mountains rise more perpendicularly; 
 the valleys are more like canons. One of them, 
 Kaliuaa, is so narrow that at the base of the 
 
120 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 waterfall at its southern end only a thin lozenge 
 of sky is visible. A side excursion on foot to this 
 valley is well worth the rough walk of about two 
 miles. It is filled with ohia trees, which are often 
 laden with their red, somewhat tasteless, but cool 
 and refreshing fruit. Natives, on entering the 
 gorge, always pick the large polished leaves of 
 the ohia and lay them crossed on the ground as 
 a charm to prevent rocks falling from the cliffs. 
 The waterfall itself is thin and high, sliding in a 
 groove down the solid rock. There is a legend to 
 account for this groove that the demigod Kama- 
 puaa, in trying to escape from a king who was 
 chasing him for stealing chickens, fled into the 
 valley and, reaching its precipitous end, dragged 
 his canoe up the face of the rock, thus marking 
 it forever. 
 
 The ocean on this northern side of the Island 
 seems to be of a quite different character. In- 
 stead of a choppy sea, variegated in colour, as 
 on the southern shore, it is an even, deep blue, and 
 stately billows like those in mid-ocean roll in, to 
 sweep noiselessly over the broad beaches of white 
 sand. The hills press more and more closely to 
 the water, except where the flat valley bottoms 
 give space for the cultivation of rice and taro. 
 Glimpses up these valleys reveal a more luxuriant 
 vegetation than on the leeward slopes, because the 
 mountains intercept much of the rainfall. 
 
OAHU 121 
 
 It is not until reaching Kualoa Point that one 
 gets the most glorious view — the reverse of that 
 seen from Nuuanu Pali. Kaneohe Bay, deep, pro- 
 tected by coral reefs, and dotted with islands, 
 many of which are the peaks of submerged volcanic 
 hills, lies straight ahead beyond another, shorter 
 point. Between sea and mountains is a broken 
 plain. There are no more valleys, the mountains 
 rising like a continuous, blue, crenellated wall to 
 beat back the wind and to catch the water in the 
 clouds that drift in from sea. This wall of 
 rock, which, beyond the Pali, reaches out into the 
 sea at Mokapu Point, looks almost semicircular, 
 and it is possible that instead of being the work 
 of erosion only, it is the magnificent ruins of some 
 stupendous ancient crater, the other half of which 
 has sunk into the sea. The less spectacular theory, 
 that it is the result of centuries of beating by 
 wind and rain, may be true, but whatever the 
 causes the final panorama is superb. 
 
 The road clings to the shore. The mountains 
 grow more and more impressive, partly through 
 contrast, as they are seen across the tender green 
 of rice fields or the grey of pineapples, partly 
 because they really become higher as one travels 
 southeastward. More and more is the imagination 
 stirred; more and more is there mystery in the 
 blacker shadows that reach over the plain. One 
 believes the Hawaiian legend that on a certain 
 
122 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 night of every year the conqueror Kamehameha 
 marches with his ghostly army along the face of 
 these hills and that all those who see the glimmer 
 of the spears in the moonlight and who hear the 
 trampling of the feet must surely die. At Ahui- 
 manu — in English the " gathering place of birds " 
 — there is an old house, at the end of a branch 
 road leading for a couple of miles directly away 
 from the shore. It was built by the first French 
 Bishop of Honolulu as a place to which he might 
 retire for meditation and prayer. It stands close 
 to the foot of the precipices and is shadowed with 
 aged trees. From its windows one looks up and 
 up until the rocks are hidden in the clouds. They 
 might reach the sky for all one knows, and one 
 very soon gets to believe that they do. Only for 
 a few hours does the sun reach this solitary farm- 
 house. The only sounds are the murmur of 
 streams and the roar of the wind as it strikes the 
 mountain wall. It is a sombre spot in a way, and 
 yet there is an unworldly, almost superhuman 
 fascination about it that somehow sets off this 
 secluded corner of the Island as something quite 
 apart from all the rest. It is shut in, a place in 
 which to dream — the Bishop knew what he was 
 doing when he built — whereas the southern slopes 
 are full of sunshine in which are all the simple 
 realities of life. 
 
 The road turns away from the sea at last, 
 
OAHU 128 
 
 crosses a plain covered with pineapples and leads 
 straight toward the precipice, which is no less 
 abrupt here than elsewhere, though not so high. 
 The ascent would seem impossible were it not that 
 one can see the road — a line twisting and turning 
 around the rough face of the rocks. And a good 
 road it proves to be, in spite of the hairpin turns, 
 which in late years have been eliminated as much 
 as is humanly possible. As one ascends the view 
 grows broader, less detailed, more full of blending 
 colours. The wind roars through the gap above. 
 A long curve around the face of the cliff that juts 
 out from the main range, rocks rising perpendicu- 
 larly at the left of the road and at the right 
 descending in a sheer drop of several hundred feet, 
 one last look over blue ocean, variegated plain, 
 and dark bliie mountains, and then suddenly 
 through the gap with the wind and before one 
 lies peaceful Nuuanu Valley, descending gently to 
 the city and the southern sea. In an instant the 
 whole character of the scene has changed. It is 
 no longer grand, but lovely; black mountain 
 shadows are left behind, and before are sunshine 
 and waving yellow grasses. No one since Dr. 
 Johnson, with his definition of mountains as " con- 
 siderable protuberances," could make the circuit 
 of Oahu without enthusiasm, and even Dr. John- 
 son, though he pretended to despise, had a habit 
 of seeking out wild scenery in which to spend his 
 
124 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 holidays. No motor excursion of a hundred miles 
 covers more varied or more beautiful country 
 than does this. 
 
 The trip around the shorter, southeastern end 
 of the Island can only be made as a whole on 
 horseback, since the Waimanalo Pali at the eastern 
 point has only a trail across it. It is an interest- 
 ing drive, however, along the shore eastward from 
 Honolulu. Beyond Diamond Head is the wide, 
 sandy plain of Waialae, with its algaroba trees 
 and its cocoanuts ; back of it deep valleys cut into 
 the mountains. Beyond, at Niu, which is the last 
 of the fertile valleys, there are interesting ancient 
 burial caves easily reached from the road by a 
 five minutes' scramble up the ridge. Koko Head, 
 like Diamond Head and Punch Bowl, an old mud 
 volcano, here juts into the ocean. From it, unless 
 the day is misty, one gets a good view of the Island 
 of Molokai across the channel, of the little Island 
 of Lanai, with the higher mountains of west Maui 
 between. Koko Head itself is absolutely barren, 
 as is the land beyond it, a mass of rocks and lava 
 sand. Just under Koko Head to the east is a won- 
 derful little horseshoe-shaped bay, very deep and 
 often very rough, as the waves from the channel 
 sweep through its narrow mouth. This is a 
 favourite goal for the exciting sport of shark 
 fishing. The sharks are caught with spears at- 
 tached to heavy cord and, after being speared, 
 
OAHU 125 
 
 make a tremendous fight for liberty. Very few of 
 them are man-eaters, but the possibility of only 
 one makes a man as cautious about swimming in 
 an unprotected bay like this as the presence of a 
 single man-eating tiger would make him cautious 
 about wandering through the woods at night. 
 Fortunately the shark hates shallow water, since 
 in it he must turn over, either to attack or to 
 defend himself, and the result is that no sharks 
 cross the coral reefs which protect many parts of 
 the Islands. Swimming at Waikiki and at other 
 bathing resorts is, therefore, as safe as swimming 
 in Y. M. C. A. pools. A story widely believed that 
 sharks attack only white men, avoiding the dark- 
 skinned natives, is false. The natives certainly 
 are less easily seen in the water, and the legend 
 may have arisen from the fact that the Hawaiians 
 are fearless. They are marvellous swimmers and 
 will sometimes dive under a shark and stab it in 
 the belly, the only vulnerable part. The fact re- 
 mains, however, as has been sadly proved more 
 than once, that if a man-eater happens to see a 
 Hawaiian who has got too far away from his 
 canoe no agility can save him. 
 
 Beyond Koko Head a new carriage road winds 
 upward over the wild desolation of rocks to the 
 hill above the great lighthouse at Makapuu Point, 
 at the extreme eastern end of the Island. From 
 here the roughest kind of trail leads down the 
 
126 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 Waimanalo Pali, directly over the water. Soon 
 after reaching the bottom of the cliffs the trail 
 strikes another carriage road that winds over a 
 beautiful rolling seaboard and then, avoiding the 
 cape which marks the eastern boundary of the 
 great Koolau half-basin, it strikes back through 
 the hills to the foot of Nuuanu Pali. This trip is 
 a very short one as compared to that around the 
 northern end of the Island— thirty miles as 
 against nearly a hundred — but takes as long on 
 account of the difficult pass. It is perhaps as 
 beautiful, but is somewhat a repetition of the 
 other trip, except for the barren plains beyond 
 Koko Head. The trip to Waimanalo may best be 
 taken as a side trip from the foot of Nuuanu Pali, 
 and the excursion to the lighthouse and back to 
 Honolulu made on a separate day, thus avoiding 
 the really dangerous trail at Makapuu Point. 
 
 For those able to take rough walks Oahu offers 
 innumerable opportunities. First and easiest, be- 
 cause of the good trails, are the many tramps 
 that can be taken in the vicinity of Mt. Tantalus, 
 back of Honolulu. An excellent trail branches to 
 the left from the Tantalus Road just behind 
 Punch Bowl. It follows the right-hand ridge of 
 Pauoa, a shallow valley that extends only two or 
 three miles into the mountains. Across the valley, 
 on the western ridge, is Pacific Heights, a recently 
 
o 
 
 as 
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 be 
 
 a 
 o 
 
 o 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 C 
 
OAHU 127 
 
 formed residence section, reached by electric cars. 
 The bottom of the valley is lovely to look down 
 upon, with its kitchen gardens and its bright 
 green taro patches, the whole terraced and laid 
 out in rectangles. The trail winds along the face 
 of the ridge, now in the open, now through bits of 
 forest ; drops a little to cross the marshy plateau, 
 overgrown with guavas, at the head of the valley ; 
 turns to the left, climbs again for a short distance, 
 and comes out suddenly and unexpectedly over 
 Nuuanu Valley, about two-thirds of the way from 
 Honolulu to the Pali. Here there is an almost 
 sheer drop of a thousand feet or more, which is, 
 however, overgrown with trees and ferns and vines. 
 The view of the valley is superb, and looking to 
 the right one can see through the gap to the 
 ocean on the other side of the Island. From here 
 the trail turns toward the mountains again and 
 continues northeastward, always overlooking Nuu- 
 anu Valley or the gorges that lead into it, and 
 always winding its way upward through magnifi- 
 cent native forests. There are great kukui trees 
 with leaves like the maple, but larger and cream 
 coloured underneath; huge ferns that arch their 
 fronds over the path ; the ie-ie vine with its yellow 
 candles surrounded by whorls of scarlet leaves ; 
 clumps of wild bananas; lehua trees with their 
 flowers like pink flames; shrubs of mokihana, the 
 berries and leaves of which are as sweet and 
 
128 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 as pungent as lavender. At last the path emerges 
 from the forest on to a knife-like ridge that leads 
 to the main mountain mass. Here one looks down 
 a dizzy height into Nuuanu on one side, southward 
 over the maze of hills back of Tantalus, and on 
 the other side into Manoa Valley and the distant 
 round crater of Diamond Head. Straight ahead 
 is the peak of Konahuanui, a hard but safe climb 
 of an hour, with no clearly defined trail. From 
 Honolulu to the foot of the peak and back would 
 take five to six hours. From here another path 
 leads around the head of Manoa Valley to Olympus 
 and so, with a stiff but wonderful climb, down the 
 windward side of the range into Koolau. This, 
 trip, returning by way of Nuuanu Pali, is a long 
 day's tramp. Another trail branches off after 
 passing the head of Manoa, and crossing a knife 
 ridge — not safe for those unused to mountain 
 climbing — leads into the head of Palolo Valley and 
 to a queer little crater, overgrown with ferns, 
 which seems lost in the mountains. From here 
 this trail turns south and leads along the ridge to 
 Kaimuki, a new residence section back of Diamond 
 Head. The round trip takes about nine hours. 
 
 These are only a few of hundreds of invigorat- 
 ing walks, but are the only ones with well-defined 
 trails. The mountains are public lands ; there is 
 little danger of getting lost or of running into 
 serious difficulty, unless one actually attempts to 
 
OAHU 129 
 
 cross the range. The only rule when in doubt as 
 to the way home is to go toward the sea — in gen- 
 eral southwestward — and always to keep on top 
 of the ridges. This may mean an occasional long 
 detour, but the valley bottoms are almost certain 
 to have waterfalls which are quite impassable. It 
 is always a temptation to go down into the valley, 
 where the way looks easier, but it means invariably 
 a very hard climb to get back again to the top 
 of the ridge. Although the greatest altitude is 
 only 4,000 feet, the peaks are steep, and many 
 of them give real mountain work. On the main 
 range these peaks are usually covered with ferns, 
 vines, and tough shrubs, which make the climbing 
 easier for the amateur, but not safer, because he 
 is more careless. In the Waianae Range many of 
 the points are of bare rock that is a test for the 
 most expert. From the northeast side of the 
 Island the precipices are inaccessible, except in a 
 very few places, but from any point on the south- 
 ern and western sides the crest of the range can 
 be reached by walkers who are willing to fight 
 their way through masses of undergrowth — an 
 undertaking safe in almost no other tropical 
 country. For the strong walker the fijeld is, there- 
 fore, almost inexhaustible. 
 
 Aside from Honolulu itself, and the drives in 
 its environs, there is one trip, that around the 
 Island by automobile, which should not be missed 
 
130 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 by any one who visits the Territory. Omitting the 
 walks, there is certainly enough to fill every 
 moment of one's time for a week, but only those 
 who stay longer and who are willing to go out of 
 the beaten track can realise the full beauty of 
 Oahu or understand its charm. 
 
CHAPTER VIII 
 
 KAUAI 
 
 Kauai, the most northerly island of the group, a 
 steamer trip of one night from Honolulu, has an 
 area of 547 square miles. It is very nearly circu- 
 lar, has a regular shore line, without important 
 harbours, and is made up of the mountain mass of 
 Waialeale, 5,250 feet high. This is not, however, 
 a great dome like any one of the mountains on 
 Hawaii. Kauai is geologically the oldest of the 
 islands, and as a result its mountain has been 
 cut by erosion into hundreds of separate peaks 
 and valleys. The soil washed down has formed 
 lowlands near the shore, except on the northwest 
 side, where there are great sea cliffs of naked rock 
 rising to a height of 2,000 feet. The west central 
 part of the Island is an enormous bog, so nearly 
 impassable that it makes the ascent of the central 
 peak extremely difficult. It forms, however, an 
 inexhaustible watershed for the southern and 
 southwestern slopes. Over this bog there is usu- 
 ally dense fog — practically the only fog in the 
 Islands — a characteristic which makes exploration 
 of the interior even more difficult. Indeed very 
 little was known of it until recently, when the 
 181 
 
132 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 plantations penetrated inland in search of a 
 permanent water supply. The northern part of 
 the Island is very rainy, Hanalei having a rain- 
 fall equal to that of Hilo. The Island used to be 
 densely wooded, but there are at present no forests 
 except on the higher mountain slopes, as cattle 
 first destroyed them on the lowlands and the 
 ground has since been appropriated for the culti- 
 vation of sugar, rice, and pineapples. Abundant 
 rainfall or water supply, combined with the ex- 
 treme fertility of the soil, keeps everything green, 
 and has rightly given to Kauai the name of the 
 Garden Island. As the roads are excellent and the 
 distances short, the principal points of interest 
 can be covered in a five-day round trip from 
 Honolulu, a trip tremendously worth taking by 
 those who are not afraid of a rough night at sea. 
 There are comfortable hotels at Hanalei, Lihue, 
 and Waimea. 
 
 Landing at Waimea, on the southwestern side of 
 the Island, where Captain Cook first stepped on 
 Hawaiian territory, arrangements can readily be 
 made for seeing the Island. Short excursions may 
 be taken from Waimea itself as follows: Fifteen 
 miles to the northwest, over a good road, at the 
 extreme western point of the Island, are a line of 
 windblown sand hills called the Barking Sands. 
 The wind on the sands makes them rustle like silk ; 
 to slide down them produces a sound like thunder 
 
KAUAI 133 
 
 to stamp on them makes them cry out in different 
 cadences. This sand is a natural curiosity exist- 
 ing in very few places, and is amusing to grown 
 people as well as to children. Near the sands, at 
 Polihale, is a famous old Hawaiian bathing beach 
 — one of the " lucky places " — which, besides being 
 an ideal place for a swim, is still supposed by the 
 natives to bring special good fortune to all who 
 enter the water. The great upland plains beyond, 
 one of the dryest and most beautiful spots in the 
 Islands, may soon be set aside as a permanent Gov- 
 ernment reserve. Another trip, which takes the 
 better part of a day, is back through the Waimea 
 Gulch as far as Puukapele, 3,600 feet high, where 
 is obtained the best view of the surrounding coun- 
 try. This valley, originally a fissure in the moun- 
 tain, cuts across all the ridges that run southwest 
 from the central mass and leads far into the in- 
 terior of the Island. The trip, which must be 
 made on horseback, leads through magnificent 
 scenery, between the mighty walls of the valley, 
 which, on account of the vivid colourings of the 
 rocks, has been called the Grand Caiion of the 
 Colorado in miniature. The canon part of the 
 valley is 3,000 feet deep and about a mile wide, 
 the sides precipitous, ending in sharp peaks and 
 cut by grim gorges. In the decomposing rocks 
 the colours are as vivid as though volcanic fires 
 were still at work. Another excursion of six 
 
134 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 miles, which can be made by carriage, is to the 
 Okolele Ditch, the great engineering work that 
 revealed the Okolele Canon, the existence of which 
 was barely known a few years ago. The last part 
 of the ditch is a six-mile tunnel carried through 
 the precipices on the sides of the valley. The 
 road which leads to the valley only allows one to 
 look down into the canon, with its bluffs of painted 
 rock rising from the narrow, twisting gorge at the 
 bottom. This, too, is suggestive of the Grand 
 Caiion, except for the trees which somehow cling 
 to its almost perpendicular sides wherever a 
 crevice gives a chance for their roots to take hold. 
 At Waimea itself, a picturesquely situated village, 
 which used to be the capital of the Island and had 
 a large native population, there is little of particu- 
 lar interest except the ruins of the Russian fort 
 on the headland overlooking the harbour. This 
 was built in 1815 by Russian traders, ostensibly 
 for the King of Kauai, but over it flew the Russian 
 flag, and it was undoubtedly intended as the first 
 step toward annexation of the Island by Russia. 
 
 An excellent road leads from Waimea southeast- 
 ward and eastward to Lihue. It passes first 
 through Makawele, the largest plantation in the 
 Island, and the second of those forming a belt 
 around it. This plantation occupies land which 
 was originally a dry plain, but water was brought 
 from the Hanapepe Valley and by ditch from the 
 
KAUAI 1S5 
 
 Okolele Canon, and there is now abundance at all 
 seasons of the year. A carriage road leads five 
 miles into the Hanapepe Valley, and an easy trail 
 of five miles more brings one to the Falls, which 
 are very beautiful, as they have a large volume of 
 water and are 250 feet high. Beyond Hanapepe 
 the main road turns inland, but at Lawai a branch 
 road leads southeast to serve the pretty little vil- 
 lage of Koloa, passing first through the eight miles 
 of property of the McBride Sugar Company. 
 This was among the first plantations seriously 
 to introduce small homesteading among its em- 
 ployees. Part of the uplands back of the planta- 
 tion was divided into five-acre lots, which were 
 assigned to European immigrants on terms of very 
 easy payment. These homesteads, on which pine- 
 apples are the principal crop, are cultivated 
 largely by the women and children, while father 
 and older boys work in the plantation fields. In- 
 deed, on most of the Kauai plantations this plan 
 of homesteading, or some form of co-operative 
 labour, has been tried with striking success. At 
 the Kilauea Plantation, on the north side of the 
 Island, there are Portuguese labourers who have 
 been connected with the property for over thirty 
 years. The village of Koloa is in itself uninterest- 
 ing, but two miles from it is the Spouting Horn, 
 a curious rock formation on the shore, where the 
 waves rush into a cave and force intermittent jets 
 
136 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 of water high into the air through a narrow 
 crevice above the inner end. It is much more 
 active than are most spouting horns, and is a 
 perpetual fountain well worth seeing. The Haupu, 
 or Hoary Head Ridge, 2,000 feet high, runs 
 eastward from the central mountain to the sea, and 
 the end of it, the highest point, forms a bold 
 promontory rising perpendicularly out of the 
 ocean a few miles south of Lihue. This ridge, 
 which was formerly part of the backbone of the 
 mountain, has been intersected by erosion and 
 through this gap runs the main road to the eastern 
 side of the Island. 
 
 Lihue itself, twenty-six miles from Waimea, is 
 the county seat. The town, which has a large 
 German settlement, is beautifully situated on both 
 banks of the Nawiliwili Gulch. Back of it is a 
 curious tufa cone, the Kilohana crater, which was 
 thrown up long after volcanic activity had ceased, 
 indeed after erosion had done much of its work. 
 Material ejected from this crater covered the 
 region for a radius of several miles, so that streams 
 had to make new channels for themselves, flowing 
 finally into the rivers to the north and to the south. 
 From this cone, which is easily accessible on horse- 
 back or on foot, there is a splendid panorama of 
 ocean and mountain, cultivated field and forest, of 
 the whole lovely plain that makes the east side 
 of the Island. A few miles north of Lihue the 
 
KAUAI 137 
 
 Wailua Valley is noted for its beautiful water- 
 falls, and both the upper and lower falls, with 
 their surrounding of verdure-covered crags, well 
 repay the horseback trip of ten miles necessary 
 to visit them. The lower part of the river is 
 navigable for small boats, and canoe trips between 
 its banks, that are overgrown with shrubs and 
 vines to the edge of the water, are always popular 
 with residents of Lihue. Perhaps this is even more 
 so since the drive of six miles to the mouth of the 
 river is one of the finest of the many marine drives 
 in the Islands. 
 
 This is the first part of the excellent automobile 
 road that follows the shore for thirty-four miles 
 to Hanalei. It leads northward through rice fields 
 and plantations, past Anahola, where rugged, in- 
 accessible bluffs meet the beating of waves and 
 the strong sweep of trade winds at the north- 
 eastern comer of the Island, to Kilauea, and then 
 turns westward, following the northern shore. 
 Hanalei, a thriving village, is one of the most 
 picturesque spots to be found anywhere. Like 
 Waimea and Lihue, it may be reached by steamer 
 direct from Honolulu, and, with its good hotel, is 
 a comfortable centre for excursions. From the 
 steamer one looks up the broad, fertile valley that 
 extends between its steep boundaries for miles back 
 into the mountains. Down its sides fall innumer- 
 able silver, thread-like waterfalls, that now disap- 
 
138 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 pear behind thick foliage, now leap over sheer 
 precipices, to dissolve in mist before they reach 
 the floor of the valley. Perhaps the loveliest view, 
 however, is that looking down from the east bank 
 as one approaches from Lihue, because here one 
 gets the full expanse of the level valley bottom, 
 with its broad river, the largest in the Islands, 
 winding serenely between fields of vivid green 
 rice, between little clusters of Hawaiian houses, 
 where the natives have lived for generations and 
 still live, peacefully unconscious of the march of 
 civilisation, of the turmoil of the world outside. 
 One overlooks also the horseshoe bay, with the 
 ocean beyond, and to the left sees deep into the 
 verdure-covered valleys, over the ridges to the 
 cloud-capped mountain in the distance. At Hana- 
 lei is another famous bathing beach, and for those 
 who prefer there is here also good fresh-water 
 swimming in the river. 
 
 A beautiful drive westward leads, after five 
 miles, to the mouth of the glorious Wainiha Val- 
 ley. Before reaching it, however, one crosses, on 
 a bridge, the stream of the Lumahai Valley. This 
 bridge has done away with the last of the old 
 ferries, which were formerly a characteristic fea- 
 ture of travel on Kauai. It is a region of legend. 
 The Waikoko River — the Water of Blood — recalls 
 by its name a sanguinary battle of ancient times. 
 The Wainiha Valley is one of the finest and deepest 
 
KAUAI 1S9 
 
 of Hawaiian canons. It cuts into the mountain 
 for some fifteen miles, almost intersecting the 
 highest point of the Island and reaching nearly 
 to the head-waters of the Okolele and Hanapepe 
 streams, which flow into the sea on the other side 
 of the Island. Toward the upper part of Wainiha 
 the perpendicular rock walls are four thousand 
 and more feet in height. Nowhere in the Islands, 
 except in west Maui, is there such a titanic fissure 
 in the mountains, nowhere more stupendous preci- 
 pices. A carriage road extends two miles into the 
 valley and is continued for several miles by a 
 trail which at one point leads up the western 
 ridge to a height of about 4,000 feet. At the end 
 of the carriage road is the station of the Kauai 
 Electric Company, which sends power through its 
 wires, strung on poles, to all parts of the Island. 
 So excellent is the plant that electricity is used 
 commercially in Kauai to a far greater extent than 
 elsewhere in the group, many of the pumping sta- 
 tions on the southern shores being run by power 
 from Wainiha. A splendid tramp of a day or two 
 may be taken through the wildest of tropical for- 
 ests along this pole-line, the best access to the 
 trail being, however, from Lihue on the southeast. 
 Walkers should bear in mind that on Kauai it is 
 wise always to keep to well-defined trails or to take 
 a guide, since the formation of the Island is such 
 that it is very easy to get lost. Just beyond the 
 
140 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 Wainiha Valley, and reached by a good carriage 
 road, is Haena Point, with its interesting caves. 
 They are at sea level and extend for a long dis- 
 tance through old lava channels under the cliffs. 
 One is filled with fresh water. The rock forma- 
 tions of the sides and the roofs are fantastic, with 
 their queer stalactites and their rope-like columns 
 of twisted lava that might almost have served as 
 models for the columns in the cloister of St. Paul's 
 outside the walls of Rome. The light refracted 
 through the water is wonderfully softened and 
 coloured, just as it is in the grottoes at Capri. 
 In one of the caves a canoe has been placed for 
 the use of visitors. The carriage road extends 
 only a mile or two beyond the Point, reaching 
 then the wild, precipitous, and little explored 
 section of the Island known as Napali. 
 
 Here the cliffs, in places over 2,000 feet high, 
 fall sheer into the sea, leaving not a vestige even 
 of beach, nor a pathway along the water. These 
 cliffs are cut by innumerable ragged gorges, which 
 extend, however, only a short distance Inland, end- 
 ing abruptly at the ridge back of the Wainiha 
 Valley and a little further south at that back of the 
 Waimea Valley. At the heads of these gorges are 
 often broad basins, like little craters, and along 
 their precipitous sides are spires of rock like the 
 needles of the Alps, both the effect of erosion. 
 Toward the southern part of this region the 
 
* ' - a » J 3 
 
KAUAI 141 
 
 gorges become the narrowest of canons, entering 
 the sea through mere slits in the rocky wall. The 
 Kalalau Valley, the most important in Napali, and 
 in the centre of the section, used to have a large, 
 if isolated, population, but to-day only a few poor 
 huts are left. A favourite tramp from Hanalei is 
 along the shore penetrating Napali as far as 
 Hanakapiai. Beyond this point the trail is very 
 difficult, but runs on, up and down across the 
 gorges as far as the Kalalau Valley. From here 
 the only possible way to continue around the 
 Island is by canoe for seven or eight miles to 
 the end of the cliffs. The canoe trip of twenty 
 miles along the whole of the district is a thrilling 
 experience, but can, of course, be taken only in 
 the calmest weather. Occasionally one of the 
 inter-island steamers makes the circuit of Kauai, 
 and no trip in the Islands can show finer scenery. 
 The bluffs and canons are all bare of vegetation 
 near the sea — walls and towers of ancient rock, 
 awe-inspiring in their majesty and in their soli- 
 tude. They are of lava, weathered by the ages 
 into grey and purple and yellow and orange. In 
 the pockets are patches of bright red soil, and here 
 and there huge rocks protrude that are black and 
 glistening, like coal. From the ocean one sees back 
 of all this desolation the green of the forests and 
 the yellow of upland grasses half hidden in the 
 mountain mists. Napali is an ideal region for 
 
142 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 the sportsman. (A shooting permit is necessary 
 and should be obtained in Lihue.) Wild goats 
 climb over all the ridges. The shores swarm with 
 fish. Camping trips are always practicable; the 
 natives are always friendly, willing for small pay 
 to act as guides, packers, and cooks. The district 
 is perhaps the wildest in the Island, as little known 
 as any, magnificent in its scenery, which is so 
 different from any other, so insistently suggestive 
 of solitude and of remoteness from the world, that 
 the Hawaiians have invested almost every part of 
 it with some strange legend of the ancient gods 
 and demigods. 
 
 The excellent road, already ninety miles long,] 
 which is planned ultimately to circle the Island, is 
 still broken by the thirty miles and more of the 
 cliffs and gorges of Napali. The trip around the 
 entire Island can be made only, therefore, if the 
 sea is calm enough to permit of a long canoe trip, 
 but as elsewhere the roads are excellent, Kauai is 
 an ideal place for driving and motoring. Regular! 
 excursions are arranged in connection with the 
 sailings of the inter-island steamers, and these give 
 a good impression of the country. The climate is 
 so pleasant, however, the scenery so fine, and thej 
 people so hospitable, that Kauai is the best of thei 
 Islands for camping trips and it is only by getting 
 back into the mountains that one comes to under- 
 stand the charm of the old Hawaiian life, to realise 
 
KAUAI 143 
 
 the enthusiasm of Kauai people for their own 
 land, and to appreciate the name they have given 
 it of the Garden Island. 
 
 The little island of Niihau, a part of the county 
 of Kauai, lying seventeen miles west of the larger 
 island, and containing 97 square miles, is a private 
 estate, used largely for ranching purposes. Only 
 a few people live on it now, but it must have been 
 an important centre of population in 1778, as 
 Captain Cook's ships remained there for several 
 days taking on water and provisions. Niihau is 
 principally known to the outsider to-day for the 
 chains made from tiny white shells which are found 
 on the beaches, and for the Niihau mats. The 
 Hawaiians braid large quantities of mats, but 
 none are so soft and fine as those made from the 
 rushes which grow in the marshes of this insig- 
 nificant island. 
 
CHAPTER IX 
 
 MOLOKAI AND MAUI 
 
 The channel between Oahu and Molokai is twenty- 
 three miles wide. Steamers to Maui and Hawaii 
 cross it and then skirt the lee shore of Molokai, 
 which is an island forty miles long and only ten 
 wide. This lee shore, by far the less interesting, 
 is the only one usually seen by travellers. One 
 of the smaller inter-island steamers leaves Hono- 
 lulu every Tuesday afternoon, and, after calling 
 at all the ports on Molokai, at most of those on 
 the south side of Maui, and at Lanai, reaches 
 Honolulu again on Sunday morning. Fine as the 
 scenery on this trip is, however, the voyage can 
 be recommended only to those for whom the sea 
 has no terrors, as for a good part of the time 
 the water is certain to be rough and many of the 
 landings are difficult. There is much on Molokai 
 that is of real interest, but there are no hotels, no 
 good carriage roads, so that the only practicable 
 way to visit it is on a camping expedition. For 
 this arrangements must be made in Honolulu, 
 where shooting permits must also be obtained. 
 Hunting is excellent, as the Island is full of deer. 
 The west end of Molokai is comparatively bar- 
 144 
 
MOLOKAI AND MAUI 145 
 
 ren, being in general occupied by ranches, although 
 near the shore some sisal is grown. The landing 
 for this part of the Island, and indeed the natural 
 centre for all excursions, is Kaunakakai, a dreary 
 and desolate village surrounded by dusty and with- 
 ered scrub algaroba. The east end of the Island is 
 fertile, and here the mountains rise to a height of 
 about 5,000 feet. The southern shore is protected 
 by coral reefs, which in two or three places have 
 formed good harbours. Along this shore fishing 
 is still an important industry, although the walls 
 of the ancient fish ponds, which can be seen from 
 the hills, have either sunk below the surface of 
 the water or have fallen to pieces. Along the 
 north shore the bluffs drop into the sea, being 
 especially fine on the northeastern side, where a 
 large part of the mountains must have broken off 
 and disappeared in the ocean. In this region, in 
 two magnificent valleys accessible only from the 
 sea, Pelekunu and Wailau, there are settlements 
 of Hawaiians who live much as they used to live 
 before the discovery of the Islands. They even 
 keep many of the ancient traditions which are 
 elsewhere lost, and indeed throughout the Island 
 the natives are inclined to be superstitious. The 
 powerful Poison God, saved somehow from the 
 burning of idols in 1819, was kept on Molokai 
 by a priest, or kahuna, until the latter part of the 
 nineteenth century. The power of this god to 
 
U6 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 bring sickness and death has never been satis- 
 factorily explained. It probably was made — it 
 may still be in existence — of some extremely 
 poisonous wood, which only the kahuna knew how 
 to handle safely. Certain it is that its effects 
 cannot be explained as the result only of the 
 imagination. In these lonely valleys the natives 
 make a living by raising taro for the Leper Set- 
 tlement. This settlement, which gives to Molokai 
 its melancholy celebrity, is on a triangle of land, 
 made probably by some ancient lava flow, which 
 juts into the sea on the north of the Island. A 
 steep and dangerous path, always guarded, leads 
 up the bluff behind it, and is the only means of 
 access to the rest of the Island. The lepers carry 
 on a certain amount of agricultural work them- 
 selves, but are really supported by the Govern- 
 ment. Their houses are comfortable ; the hospitals 
 are of the best; everything is done to make the 
 unfortunate people happy. The Settlement is 
 very pretty as one sees it from the deck of a 
 steamer or looks down on it from the hills, but 
 it is a spot too sad to be visited by any but medical 
 men, who go for the purpose of information. For 
 the ordinary traveller it is a place to avoid as he 
 would avoid the leprosarium at Panama or any- 
 where else. 
 
 To the hunter Molokai is most alluring. Land- 
 ing at Kaunakakai, he makes his way back into 
 
MOLOKAI AND MAUI 147 
 
 the hills, where the woodlands are charmingly 
 interspersed with meadows, where the climate is 
 soft and cool, where deer are so plentiful that he 
 is sure of a haunch of venison to roast over his 
 camp fire. Or else he goes eastward, where the 
 mountains are higher and the gulches more pre- 
 cipitous, where wild goats scramble over the high- 
 est rocks and give an opportunity for really skil- 
 ful shooting. From these peaks the views are 
 marvellous — the rocky coast to the south, with its 
 lines of ancient fish ponds under the shallow 
 water; endless cliffs and gorges to the north, in- 
 accessible, tremendous ; the misty mountains of 
 Oahu to the northwest; and to the east the fine 
 serrated pile of west Maui across a narrow blue- 
 black strip of water. It is to this Island, since 
 Molokai lacks roads and inns, that the traveller 
 naturally proceeds. 
 
 Maui is, in size, the second island of the group, 
 containing 728 square miles. It is really a double 
 island, the northwestern and much smaller part 
 being as old as Oahu, or perhaps as Kauai, and 
 showing, therefore, great erosion; the southeast- 
 ern, comparatively recent part, being entirely 
 taken up by the great and only superficially 
 eroded dome of Haleakala. These two parts are 
 connected by a low plain or isthmus, formed by 
 lava flows from the east, which gradually filled 
 the channel that originally separated the two 
 
148 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 islands. On this low plain are sand dunes, some- 
 times 200 feet high, which, before the plain was 
 cultivated, used to move slowly across from north 
 to south as they were driven by the wind. The 
 Island has a population of 25,000, and on it are 
 some of the most important of the Hawaiian 
 plantations. Industries are diversified and experi- 
 ments with new crops are continually being made. 
 There is already extensive pineapple planting 
 above Haiku on the northern slope of Haleakala, 
 and in the region to the east large rubber planta- 
 tions have been set out. There is no carriage road 
 around the Island, although one is in process of 
 construction, and some of the finest scenery is, 
 therefore, accessible only on horseback. 
 
 The first landing on Maui is Lahaina, an open 
 roadstead on the west coast, which is, however, 
 well protected, except during the rare Kona or 
 southwesterly storms. The district, although 
 having little rainfall, is watered by streams from 
 the high mountains behind. The village of La- 
 haina, the oldest white settlement in the Islands, 
 used to be the capital of the group. Its prosperity 
 was due to the fact that it was the regular port 
 of call for whaling ships, of which there were 
 sometimes fifty or more anchored off shore. This 
 prosperity was, however, precarious, and brought 
 with it disease and death, since the sailors were 
 allowed free run of the town without any kind 
 
MOLOKAI AND MAUI 149 
 
 of supervision on the part of the ship captains. 
 It was here, therefore, that the most acute of 
 the troubles occurred when the King promulgated 
 laws against vice. The village has dwindled away 
 and is now strung out along the shore, most of 
 its original site being occupied by the cane fields 
 of the Pioneer Mill Company. Some two miles 
 above the town the Lahainaluna Seminary, estab- 
 lished in 1831, still maintains its position among 
 the most successful of the Hawaiian industrial 
 schools. The deserted missionary home, a dingy 
 white in its grove of ancient trees, is a pathetic 
 and picturesque landmark of elder days. Aside 
 from its beautiful situation and its dry, temperate 
 climate, there is little to detain one long in 
 Lahaina. 
 
 Northward, a carriage road follows the shore 
 to Honolua, where there is a large cattle ranch. 
 The scenery along this road is fine, with mountains 
 rising ruggedly at the right and the blue peaks of 
 Molokai thrusting themselves up from the water 
 across the narrow channel. Beyond the end of 
 the road, as one nears the northern point of the 
 Island, the general formation of the cliffs and 
 valleys is something like that of the Napali sec- 
 tion on Kauai, but the precipices are neither as 
 high nor as vividly coloured, and they lack the 
 sense of remoteness and of solitary grandeur which 
 makes Napali unique. Sometime the road will con- 
 
150 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 tinue around to Wailuku, but at present the trip 
 can only be taken on horseback, a ride of about 
 fifteen miles through a wild country, which is cut 
 into tremendous gorges and crowned with innu- 
 merable pinnacles of bare rock. The regular car- 
 riage road from Lahaina to Wailuku, a distance 
 of twenty-three miles, leads along the shore to the 
 southeast. After passing a small sugar planta- 
 tion, Oluwalu, it winds along high above the sea, 
 its line cut in the face of the steep, barren hills, 
 climbs the shoulder of the mountain — always as 
 near the ocean as possible — before dropping to 
 the isthmus which connects the two parts of the 
 Island. The view from the top of this shoulder 
 is magnificent. Below are miles of level country 
 covered by the cane of the Hawaiian Commercial 
 Sugar Company, the largest sugar plantation in 
 the world. The extent of the fields makes it easy 
 to realise that the Plantation produces 60,000 
 tons of sugar every year. The different fields 
 make great blotches of different shades of green, 
 those in flower of a mauve grey. The huge mill 
 sends out its streamers of black smoke. Immedi- 
 ately to the right and far to the left is the ocean ; 
 unruffled, its colours melting into each other 
 insensibly off the southern shore; deep blue with 
 specks of white off the northern. And straight 
 ahead, back of the cultivated fields, in a long, bare, 
 upward sweep, rises the stupendous dome of 
 
MOLOKAI AND MAUI 151 
 
 Haleakala, " the house built by the sun," 10,000 
 feet high, its summit floating blue and immeasu- 
 rably calm above the little industries of men, above 
 the encircling ring of clouds. It is the first sight 
 of a really great Hawaiian mountain. From here 
 to Wailuku the road leads through the cane fields 
 across the level plain — a plain that seems like a 
 broad highway leading between endless mountain 
 masses from the southern to the northern ocean. 
 
 In a battle near Wailuku, which is now an 
 attractive town of some 3,000 inhabitants, Kame- 
 hameha completed the conquest of Maui. It is 
 said that the waters of the stream flowing from 
 lao Valley back of the town were so stained with 
 blood that their course could be marked far out 
 to sea — hence the name Wailuku, or " red water." 
 The town is now the county seat. It is a pleasant 
 place to stay in, principally because of its situa- 
 tion, with the rugged mountains of west Maui 
 behind it and in front Haleakala looming up 
 across the plain. In its way lao Valley, reached 
 by a drive of a few miles, is quite as fine as the 
 Yosemite. Its perpendicular walls are as high 
 and give the impression of being even higher, 
 since the floor is narrower. Unlike most Hawaiian 
 gulches, lao, after the narrow entrance is passed, 
 broadens into an amphitheatre, the sides of which 
 are broken with great rock bastions, ridges that 
 spring from the sides of the mountain. These 
 
152 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 precipices are thickly wooded with trees and 
 shrubs of every imaginable shade. At the head 
 of the valley, to the right, the massive peak of 
 Puu Kukui, 5,780 feet high, dominates all the 
 lower spires and domes. Here, surrounded by 
 inaccessible mountain walls, one gets again, as so 
 often in the Islands, a sudden sense of complete 
 isolation. It seems impossible that a few miles 
 of macadam road lead back to civilisation. The 
 only reality is the encircling precipices. Even 
 to speak seems an intrusion on the silence of this 
 predestined solitude, and the shriek of an auto- 
 mobile horn is an abomination. In lao also the 
 feeling of being on an island is gone. It is far 
 m-ore as though one had penetrated some beautiful 
 and lonely mountain range in the middle of a con- 
 tinent. Indeed, the traveller who has been so 
 far afield will find that it recalls insistently one 
 of the beautiful valleys back of Kutais on the 
 warm, southern slope of the Caucasus. 
 
 High on the ridge back of Puu Kukui, between 
 the Waihee and Honokahau valleys — the former 
 is as beautiful as lao, but not so easy of 
 access — is a very tiny but perfect crater. Eke, 
 by name. It was originally, of course, at the 
 top of a mountain, but the winds and rains of 
 thousands of years have carried away most of its 
 support, so that it hangs now in mid-air, sus- 
 pended on its narrow ridge, a position probably 
 
MOLOKAI AND MAUI 153 
 
 unique for a crater. So steep are the walls which 
 support it, so tangled with tropical growth the 
 lower ridges, that only one white man has ever 
 succeeded in reaching its rim. And this is but a 
 sample of the climbing in the west Maui moun- 
 tains, with their tempting peaks, each with its 
 glorious view — all baffling except to the most ex- 
 pert because of their matted vegetation and of the 
 angle at which they shoot into the air. Nothing 
 anywhere could surpass the outlook from the top 
 of Puu Kukui, with superb gorges running on all 
 sides to its base, with the mighty dome of Halea- 
 kala in the distance and all around the blue-black 
 ocean. 
 
 The landing for Wailuku, about four miles to 
 the east, is Kahului, a flourishing village that has, 
 however, much of the raw newness of a Western 
 mining town. It is the port of shipment for 
 sugar from the Hawaiian Commercial and other 
 plantations, and behind its breakwater the largest 
 steamers can find safe anchorage. It is the neces- 
 sary starting point for a trip to east Maui, and 
 for the incomparably interesting excursion to the 
 top of Haleakala, with its huge extinct crater. 
 The ascent of the mountain, with the return trip, 
 takes two days, not including the descent into the 
 crater. The distance to the summit from Paia, 
 the eastern terminus of the Kahului Railroad, is 
 about twenty-two miles. The first seven miles, to 
 
154 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 Makawao, a pretty village at an elevation of 1,500 
 feet, and the social centre of the district, is done 
 by carriage or automobile. It is possible, at extra 
 expense, to continue in the same way to Idlewilde, 
 which, in spite of its name, is a delightful spot 
 4,500 feet above sea level. From here it is neces- 
 sary to continue the ascent on horseback. Here 
 a stop is made for luncheon or supper, as the case 
 may be; here refreshments are provided for use 
 on the mountain top, and costumes and blankets 
 for the trip may be rented if necessary. Warm 
 clothing and overcoats are essential, as it is often 
 very cold, and ladies, who are required to ride 
 astride, should also be provided with short skirts 
 and leggings, or divided skirts. At the summit is 
 only a rough shelter, a house to keep off the rain, 
 and where those who can sleep without beds may 
 sleep, while others wait more or less patiently for 
 dawn. Since no one lives here, all food and com- 
 forts must be carried from below. On the regular 
 excursions they are provided as a matter of course. 
 The steep horseback climb from Idlewilde, across 
 great upward-swinging plains, past herds of cat- 
 tle that recognise men as men only when they are 
 on horseback, and would probably prove trouble- 
 some to the pedestrian, is interesting principally 
 because one more and more realises the altitude. 
 The cultivated fields below shrink, and at the same 
 time the ocean spreads wider and wider and always 
 
MOLOKAI AND MAUI 155 
 
 more definitely blue. Or, if it is night — and most 
 people make the ascent by night, so that sunrise 
 may not be too many long hours away — the land 
 is an indistinguishable grey, and the ocean is jet 
 black, and overhead the stars seem very many 
 and very near. In the vast silence, so different 
 in quality from the troubled silence of the low- 
 lands, one can almost hear the crisp rustle of their 
 sparkling. It is no wonder that so many Oriental 
 monasteries are built high on the mountains of 
 Asia Minor. Lofty solitudes seem always most 
 open to celestial influences, and perhaps it was 
 with the consciousness of the near presence of the 
 gods that the Hawaiians named this mountain not 
 Haleokala, "house of the sun," but Haleakala, 
 " house built by the sun," thus making the sun 
 god's connection with it more intimate. 
 
 On a dark night the summit of the mountain is 
 merely the end of rising ground — or more than 
 that, the end of everything, since straight ahead 
 yawns a pit, which is the crater. Nor by moon- 
 light is it satisfactory, since the indistinct out- 
 lines only make one long to see more. In general 
 it may be said that, except to the imagination of 
 poets, mountains by moonlight, unless they are 
 snow mountains and are very near, are disappoint- 
 ing. It is true that here on Haleakala the moon 
 seems to hang lower and to be more silvery than 
 anywhere else, but its brightness brings out clearly 
 
156 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 only the hut and the rocks that are close at hand. 
 The proper thing to do is to build a fire and to 
 persuade the guide to tell stories of the mountain 
 — stories, it may be, of quite modern experiences, 
 of hunting and camping in the crater, or of the 
 rescue of foolish strangers who try to find paths 
 up the rocky walls and are marooned on treacher- 
 ous landslides ; or, perhaps, if the guide is Ha- 
 waiian, of some of the elder, legendary history, 
 of the time when the fire goddess Pele broke 
 through the wall of the crater at the great Koolau 
 gap and fled from Maui forever, across the water 
 to Hawaii. And then it is wise to try to sleep 
 until the sunrise. // 
 
 Dawn comes quickly in the tropics, and even 
 more quickly on a mountain top. When the first 
 faint light appears the party takes its position 
 at the edge of the crater. The stars grow pale, 
 as though they were strewing their own bright- 
 ness over all the sky. Then the light reaches 
 downward and is reflected from below, from the 
 upper surfaces of cloudbanks that were invisible 
 a moment before. They shine whiter and whiter, 
 revealing black chasms that cut across them. And 
 then, as there comes a hint of safi^ron in the sky, 
 what seem three more lofty clouds to the south- 
 east take on solidity with their morning colours 
 and resolve themselves into the three dome-like 
 mountains of Hawaii. The black rim of water at 
 
MOLOKAI AND MAUI 157 
 
 the eastern edge of the world grows sharper as 
 the green and red behind become more intense ; the 
 tips of the Hawaii mountains first gleam golden 
 in the sunlight, and then suddenly the sun itself 
 springs over the horizon, and all the colours of the 
 cloud tops vanish in white daylight. But far below 
 it is still night. The ocean, except to the east, is 
 still black through the cloud rifts. The fields 
 below are still dark, and the west Maui mountains 
 are sombre. There is something unreal and very 
 wonderful in standing thus in the golden light 
 above the clouds, above the world asleep, alone 
 with the beautiful snow-capped Hawaii mountains 
 that surge high above the surf -like clouds across 
 the channel. Then as the light glides down the 
 mountain, picking out forests and fields and vil- 
 lages, and turning the black sea blue, as the hori- 
 zon, that is the rim of a great bowl, pales, and 
 fuses at last in the misty sky, one turns to look 
 at the wonder near at hand, at the vast crater 
 at one's feet. 
 
 The extinct crater of Haleakala is 20 miles in 
 circumference, 7 1-2 miles long, and 2 1-3 miles 
 wide. Where one stands, in front of the rest house, 
 there is an almost perpendicular drop of 2,000 
 feet to the floor of the ancient volcano. The 
 apparently tiny cones at the bottom are, in reality, 
 good-sized hills, one of them 700 feet high. This 
 crater is by far the largest in the world. Except 
 
158 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 for the still active crater on Mauna Loa, Hawaii, 
 Haleakala is the only intact summit crater in the 
 Islands. In all other cases such craters were prob- 
 ably filled to the brim by the final volcanic activity, 
 and subsequent erosion has completely done away 
 with all semblance of the original form. On 
 Maui, however, some great geological fault caused 
 the sides of the mountain in two places to slip 
 into the sea, leaving two huge gaps in the rim of 
 the crater, through which the last lava flowed 
 away, instead of piling itself up and up until it 
 filled the bowl. 
 
 Most travellers will be satisfied with the view 
 into the crater. For those who wish to descend, 
 a trip necessitating a day and comfortably filling 
 two days, there is a difficult trail of about three 
 miles along the rim, which is continued, by an 
 easy trail, into the crater. The floor is covered 
 with lava sand and is practically bare of vegeta- 
 tion, except at the eastern end, where there is a 
 low growth of trees. There are almost no signs 
 of erosion, since it seldom rains at this altitude. 
 Scattered throughout the crater are many silver 
 swords (Argyroxiphium), a kind of plant found 
 nowhere else. They are polished silver in colour, 
 looking like rosettes of long, thin swords, growing 
 three or four feet high and bearing panicles of 
 flowers something like a yucca. The leaves last 
 indefinitely. On the floor of the crater the evenly 
 
MOLOKAI AND MAUI 159 
 
 formed cones are interesting, thirteen in all, seven 
 of them sand hills. There is a so-called bottom- 
 less pit which is an ancient blowhole; a natural 
 bridge across a fissure which marked one of the 
 eruptions; there are many tiny craters; curious 
 lava and crystalline formations. But above all 
 there is the impressive magnitude of the whole — 
 the stupendous walls, broken in places by land- 
 slides, the miles of rolling desert country that seem 
 rather to be at the bottom of some great Sahara 
 valley than to be the floor of a volcano. Haleakala 
 must have been awe-inspiring almost to stupefac- 
 tion when its cones were spouting fire and when 
 rivers of scarlet, molten lava crawled along its 
 floor. It is quite as superb in the desolation of 
 its death. 
 
 From Paia, where one leaves the railroad to 
 make the ascent of Haleakala, another most inter- 
 esting excursion is to the eastward, along the north 
 side of the Island, through a region which was 
 almost impenetrable until the recent opening of a 
 long irrigation ditch. The distance from Paia to 
 Hana, at the eastern end of Maui, is forty-seven 
 miles, a good two days' trip, although the first 
 eighteen or twenty miles may be made by car- 
 riage. There is then a horseback trail of a few 
 miles, once more two or three miles of good road, 
 then another trail for a few miles which connects 
 with the road running around the eastern end of 
 
160 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 the Island. After leaving Paia the road passes 
 through the rich, rolling country of Haiku, thickly 
 planted with pineapples. Beyond Puelo there is 
 an excellent paved trail following the line of the 
 ditch through the wild jungle of this, the wettest 
 part of the Island. It winds in and out, always 
 at an elevation of from 1,000 to 2,000 feet, follow- 
 ing the contours of the ragged gulches which cut 
 into the mountain from the sea. Often it is 
 actually blasted out of the sides of precipices 
 where one looks down a sheer 1,000 feet to the 
 valley bottoms, with the sea beyond. The Kaenae 
 Valley, inhabited only by Hawaiians and, until the 
 trail was built, accessible only from the sea, leads 
 up into the Koolau gap and into the crater of 
 Haleakala. The ascent is gradual, leading 
 through magnificent scenery and splendid, un- 
 touched native forests. On either side of the gap, 
 at the entrance to the crater, the precipices tower 
 ruggedly hundreds of feet into the air, forming 
 the stately gateway through which the Fire God- 
 dess left her ancient home. A few miles beyond 
 this valley the trail, still winding along the preci- 
 pices and crossing the gulches at their narrow 
 upper ends, always through beautiful tropical 
 growth, reaches Nahiku, the centre of the new 
 Hawaiian rubber industry. From here around 
 the eastern end of the Island there is a good car- 
 riage road, part of It following the line of a 
 
• •••••• *• 
 
MOLOKAI AND MAUI 161 
 
 paved road built by the kings of Maui in the six- 
 teenth century. The village of Hana at the east- 
 ern point is situated on a charming little bay 
 protected by two headlands. That to the south, 
 Kauiki Head, is an ancient crater and was a 
 famous fort in olden times. When Kamehameha 
 invaded Maui this stronghold withstood his at- 
 tacks for two years, long after the rest of the 
 Island had been subjugated. Beyond Hana the 
 road extends south and west for a few miles only, 
 and a rough trail leads around the southern slope 
 of the mountain to Makena landing. The country 
 here is protected from the trade winds, and the 
 plains, little cut by streams and rising more steeply 
 than on the northern slopes, are used only for 
 grazing purposes. The ranchers have a trail 
 which leads upwards through the abrupt Kaupo 
 gap, the break in the southern wall of the mighty 
 summit crater. 
 
 Makena, except for the queer little crescent- 
 shaped island of Molokini, the remains of a tiny 
 volcano a mile or two off shore, is a place of no 
 interest, but the road connecting it with Makawao 
 and the northern slopes of east Maui, and with 
 Kahului on the isthmus, leads through the beauti- 
 ful district of Kula, across the great western 
 shoulder of Haleakala. This Kula district, high, 
 with only a moderate rainfall, but with very rich 
 soil, is an excellent farming region and has a 
 
162 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 climate as nearly perfect as one could wish. Peo- 
 ple are beginning to build on these cool, beautiful 
 uplands, where the air is pure and delicious, where 
 there are no high winds, where flowers and vege- 
 tables and trees of every kind can be raised with 
 almost no care, and where society, centering about 
 the village of Makawao to the northward, is made 
 up of intelligent, well-informed people. If there 
 were only a hotel, as there must be sometime, the 
 region would surpass all other parts of the Islands 
 as a place for a summer holiday. 
 
 Maui, with its extremely rugged western end, 
 and its dome-like eastern end, is an island with 
 perhaps more diversity of scenery than any of 
 the others. It is easily accessible. At Lahaina 
 and Wailuku, the latter being the natural centre 
 for excursions, there are good hotels. lao Valley, 
 with its canon-like walls, its marvellous colours, 
 and its lonely sublimity, would be worth the effort 
 necessary to visit the Island if there were nothing 
 else to see. The extinct crater of Haleakala, 
 unique in its desolate, dead magnificence, and the 
 glorious view of the Hawaii mountains across the 
 clouds as the sunlight touches them in the early 
 morning, is a sight memorable to the most hard- 
 ened and unemotional of men. It is one of those 
 great, amazing experiences of life which can no 
 more be described than they can be forgotten. 
 Even the wonder of Kilauea is surpassed by the 
 
MOLOKAI AND MAUI 163 
 
 wonder of this mighty crater, in which Vesuvius 
 would be only a deeper depression, barren, alone, 
 and eternally silent in the high quiet spaces on the 
 summit of its huge mountain. It dominates Maui, 
 makes of it a land of inexpressible fascination. 
 
 Two small islands to the south are of little or 
 no interest. Lanai, opposite Lahaina, with an 
 area of 139 square miles, is a single cone 3,400 
 feet high. On it are springs, one running stream, 
 and some low forest growth, but no cultivation. 
 The Island is given over to cattle and sheep 
 ranches. Kahoolawe, off Makena, covers 69 square 
 miles and is entirely surrounded by low cliffs. It 
 is almost barren, supporting only a few sheep and 
 cattle, and the herdsmen are its only inhabitants. 
 These little islands would not be worth mention 
 except that one likes to know their names as the 
 steamer passes between them and Maui on its 
 way to Hawaii. 
 
CHAPTER X 
 
 HAWAU 
 
 Larger than all the other Islands together, the 
 youngest geologically, Hawaii consists of three 
 huge, gently rising mountains, connected by a high 
 plateau. Except at the northern end, therefore, 
 where the Kohala Range juts out from the mass 
 of the Island, the scenery is of a very different 
 character from that of the islands to the north- 
 west, comparing in general outlines only to the 
 vast eastern end of Maui. The Island, a little 
 smaller than the State of Connecticut, and dis- 
 tinctly larger than Porto Rico, covers 4,015 
 square miles. As the three great mountains, 
 Mauna Kea, Mauna Loa, and Hualalai, rise, re- 
 spectively, 13,825 feet, 13,675 feet, and 8,269 feet, 
 the climate ranges from sultry tropical heat near 
 the shore (notably in the district of Puna) 
 through all gradations of temperature to what is 
 nearly perpetual snow. In winter the snow comes 
 well down the two higher mountains ; in summer it 
 is permanent only in sheltered nooks near their 
 summits. The Island has a population of 55,382, 
 and settlements are numerous in all parts except 
 in the southeast and on the upland plains. 
 164 
 
HAWAII 165 
 
 There are two ways of reaching Hawaii from 
 Honolulu — either by steamers of the Inter-Island 
 Steamship Company to Hilo, or to the Kona and 
 Kau ports on the lee side of the Island ; or by the 
 larger ships of the Matson Navigation Company, 
 which ply between San Francisco and Honolulu, 
 making a side trip to Hawaii about twice a month. 
 The Inter-Island boats sail twice a week to Hilo 
 and once a week to Kona and Kau, and are, 
 therefore, more likely to fit conveniently into the 
 traveller's itinerary. 
 
 Steamers for Hilo usually touch first in Hawaii 
 at Kawaihae, near the northern part of the west 
 coast, a forlorn village, barren, windswept, 
 so dusty that it is often unpleasant, because 
 of the dust in the air, to stand on the 
 deck toward the shore, even though the steamer 
 lies a half-mile from the landing. But some- 
 times in the' early morning or late afternoon 
 the view of two of the great mountains is mag- 
 nificent — Mauna Kea thrusting its snow-capped 
 peak over the red plains, and nearer the 
 barren mass of Hualalai scarred with black lava 
 flows, its green base blotched with the darker shade 
 of shrubbery and low trees. Mahukona, a few 
 miles to the north, the landing for Kohala, is 
 equally barren, and with its dingy warehouses 
 looks even more dreary than do the red plains back 
 of Kawaihae. A short railroad runs from this 
 
166 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 landing to Kohala, but the steamers do not now 
 stop long enough for passengers to make the trip. 
 Except in the rare southwesterly or westerly 
 storms, these landings are always smooth. The 
 wind from the land seems sometimes to blow even 
 the ripples from the surface of the sea. It is a 
 short relief, however, as the steamer proceeds im- 
 mediately around the north point of the Island 
 and along the windward coast, where the water is 
 usually boisterous. Here the scenery is very won- 
 derful. Waipio Valley with its broad mouth and 
 its precipitous sides, and the other valleys near 
 it almost as impressive, is succeeded by cliffs reach- 
 ing in a line, broken only by the gulches, for forty 
 miles. These cliffs rising directly from the sea 
 are covered with verdure, and over them at short 
 intervals tumble lovely waterfalls. Behind them is 
 the pale green carpet of sugar cane stretching 
 back to the forest belt, that in its turn gives place 
 to the bare uplands which are dominated by the 
 snowy crest of Mauna Kea. The cliffs give way 
 only when the ship reaches Hilo Bay — Hilo, or 
 the " new moon," so called from the long crescent 
 of the bay. The Inter-Island steamers go to a 
 dock, and larger vessels anchor outside in calm 
 water, which assures an easy landing in small 
 boats. New docks at present building will give 
 berths for all steamers. 
 
 Hilo, the chief city of Hawaii, is a town of 
 
HAWAII 167 
 
 about 7,000 inhabitants. It is the distributing 
 centre for the districts of Hilo and Puna. From 
 here the sugar produced along the coast is sent 
 direct to San Francisco and New York. Beauti- 
 fully situated on its broad, smooth bay, with the 
 two superb mountains of Mauna Loa and Mauna 
 Kea as background, with a richness of tropical 
 vegetation unknown in Honolulu, it deserves a 
 longer visit than the two or three hours usually 
 given to it. People who are jealous of Hilo say 
 that it rains there eight days in the week and 
 five weeks in the month, and indeed there are never 
 many successive clear days. But as compensation 
 there is little dust in Hilo, and the variety and 
 luxuriance of foliage and flowers are a delight. The 
 old white court-house, almost hidden in a grove 
 of huge trees, is wonderfully picturesque. Private 
 houses are almost invisible behind their crowded 
 gardens. There is a charming park where band 
 concerts are often held, but for recreation people 
 go to Cocoanut Island in the bay. On its rocky 
 shores the surf -bathing is wonderful, and one dives 
 into the water and swims about under the cocoanut 
 trees that seem to stretch out over the water to 
 get breathing space, so crowded is the little island. 
 A mile back from the town Rainbow Fall breaks 
 from a mass of trees and ferns to fall eighty feet 
 into a dark cave pool, from which it rushes, in 
 foam and spray, between high, rocky walls that 
 
168 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 are always draped with morning-glories. It is 
 almost a miniature replica of the great fall at 
 Tivoli. In the sunshine it seems literally gar- 
 landed with rainbows. Another drive, of six miles, 
 northward along the coast, takes one through cane 
 fields and clumps of gleaming vegetation in the 
 valley bottoms to the Onomea Arch, a perfect 
 natural archway under a clifF, through which the 
 waves dash perpetually. Four miles back from 
 Hilo, into the edges of the great forest belt, is 
 the Kaumana Cave, a tube extending for miles 
 under an old lava flow. The stalactites and 
 stalagmites, the folds of rock that look like crum- 
 pled velvet, the tree roots pushing downward 
 through the rock in their work of breaking up the 
 solid lava, the brilliant colours where the water 
 has filtered through, the streaks of iridiscent 
 enamel on the cave sides — all make it intensely 
 interesting. In the town itself the Hilo Boarding 
 School, where Hawaiian boys are given manual 
 training, where experiments are made in the treat- 
 ment of different native woods, is well worth an 
 hour's visit. It is even more interesting as being 
 the school on which General Armstrong modelled 
 Hampton Institute in Virginia. These things are 
 all accessible by carriage, all should be seen, and 
 all cannot be seen if Hilo is considered merely as 
 a stopping place on the road to the Volcano. 
 This is usually the case, since the tourist goes 
 
HAWAII 169 
 
 normally to Hawaii only to see Kilauea. Now 
 that a macadamised road has been constructed 
 around the Island the man who has the time ought 
 to make the circuit. It is as varied in scenery 
 as is the short one-day trip around Oahu, but the 
 variety is totally different — one might be in an- 
 other part of the world. To the amateur geologist 
 it is usually a new experience to be on an island 
 that is in the making; to the botanist an endless 
 field of exploration is open ; to the student of agri- 
 culture there is opportunity to study the culti- 
 vation or possibilities for cultivation of most crops 
 of the tropics and temperate zones; and for the 
 mere sightseer there are snow-capped mountains, 
 tangled tropical forests, deserts, ancient and re- 
 cent lava flows, wild canons, hundreds of water- 
 falls, serene upland pastures, quaint vestiges of 
 primitive Hawaiian life. Hilo, where automobiles 
 and carriages can most readily be hired, is the 
 natural starting point for the excursion. Dust 
 coats, rain coats, and heavy wraps should be pro- 
 vided, as one is likely to encounter all kinds of 
 weather. The roadside inns are simple, but every- 
 where one can find clean, comfortable quarters, and 
 decent food at moderate prices, and everywhere 
 people are hospitable. 
 
 The start from Hilo, even if one is going direct 
 to the Volcano, should be made before luncheon. 
 The distance is only a little over thirty miles, but 
 
170 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 to hurry is to miss half the charm of the ride. The 
 road immediately after leaving Hilo crosses the 
 Waiakea River, here a lazy stream winding its 
 slow way to the ocean between banks overgrown 
 with bamboo and oleanders and bananas. The 
 road then begins to wind upward through fields 
 of cane, past a queer little forest of hala trees 
 or screw pines, through cane fields again, of the 
 Olaa Plantation, and so into the district of Puna, 
 that eastward near the coast is the warmest and 
 wettest part of the Islands. The forest has been 
 cleared away to make room for cane, but vestiges 
 of it still remain, a few splendid scattered trees 
 that seem now like outposts of the great forest 
 which raises its high blue walls beyond the planta- 
 tion fields. If the day is clear the far distant 
 summits of Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa appear 
 and disappear behind the nearer hills. Nine miles 
 from Hilo at the Olaa Mill a road turns to the 
 southeast from the main highway and makes an 
 interesting side trip through the Puna district. 
 (A branch line of the Hilo Railroad taps the same 
 region.) Of interesting sights on this branch 
 road may be mentioned the warm spring at Ka- 
 poho, which makes a pool some 60 feet long, 30 
 feet wide, and 25 feet deep in a cleft of lava rock, 
 and in which the clear, buoyant water is always 
 at blood heat. In the forest near at hand are 
 many interesting lava casts. The liquid lava years 
 
iff 
 
 a 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 eg 
 a 
 
HAWAII 171 
 
 ago piled up around the trunks of trees, hardened 
 before the trees were burned away, and were left 
 standing as gigantic vases in which now are grow- 
 ing ferns and shrubs and sometimes small trees. 
 A long section of the Puna coast has evidently 
 sunk, as there are dead stumps of cocoanut trees 
 rising from the water. Along the coast in several 
 places are strewn great boulders, which were 
 thrown up by the tidal wave of 1868. Near 
 Kapoho also is Green Lake, a lovely pond in a 
 volcanic cone, where the limpid water is always 
 emerald in colour. It is circled with forests of 
 palms and shrubbery, among which can be found 
 in great abundance the exquisite pink begonia, 
 which is indigenous to Hawaii, but which is un- 
 fortunately found in very few places. Not far 
 away is the ancient heiau, or temple of Wahaula, 
 one of the most important of Hawaiian temples. 
 In the Bishop Museum in Honolulu is a miniature 
 model of this temple as it would look were it com- 
 pletely restored. The only industry of the region 
 of particular interest is the saw-mill, where huge 
 chia trees are cut into railroad ties to be sent to 
 America. A peculiarity of the wood is that it is 
 very hard, becoming with age so impenetrable that 
 it is impossible even to drive a nail. 
 
 Starting again from the Olaa Mill the road to 
 the Volcano House soon enters the forest, and rises 
 in a gentle grade, sometimes for miles in a straight 
 
172 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 line between the giant trees. At places the forest 
 on either side is practically impenetrable, assum- 
 ing the character of a real tropical jungle, but 
 of course without snakes or wild animals. The 
 trees are close together, and clinging to them are 
 vines — water-lemon vines with their juicy yellow or 
 purple fruit that is very good to eat, fantastic 
 vines, with huge shining leaves or whorls of tough, 
 hairy spines, vines interlaced from tree to tree, 
 forming the closest of screens. Ferns of all kinds 
 mat the ground, and springing from them, forcing 
 themselves between underbrush and vines, the tree 
 ferns reach their graceful fronds thirty feet into 
 the air. Masses of Hawaiian raspberries with 
 fruit as large as plums, but almost tasteless, and 
 of thimble-berries, with their spicy scarlet fruit, 
 tumble oyer the embankment on either side of the 
 road, '^t intervals deep rectangles have been cut 
 into the forest and planted with coffee or bananas 
 or other fruits. Through the natural hedges in 
 front of these clearings one catches glimpses of 
 picturesque cottages overgrown with vines and 
 reached from the road on paths made of the rough, 
 springy trunks of tree ferns laid close together. 
 There was once a rush to the Olaa region. Bits 
 of forest were cleared with immense labour in 
 order to plant coffee, but the climate has been 
 found not to develop the best quality of berry, 
 and so many of the cottages then built are now 
 
HAWAII 17S 
 
 used by residents of Hilo as summer houses or as 
 week-end retreats. The railroad, which most peo- 
 ple take in going to the Volcano, ends at the 
 twenty-third mile, and its passengers are trans- 
 ferred to a motor omnibus for the rest of the trip. 
 After about the twenty-fifth mile post the trees 
 begin to dwarf a little; open spaces with only a 
 low scrub growth like heather become more and 
 more frequent. There are still occasional clumps 
 of ancient koa trees with their crescent-shaped 
 leaves and their mighty trunks, but the fan palms, 
 of which there are many in the lower forests, have 
 disappeared. In places the ground is covered 
 with stag-horn fern, a coarse brake, stiff and im- 
 penetrable, which needs very little soil, and which 
 is gradually covering geologically recent lava 
 flows, and with its strong roots is breaking them 
 up, thus accomplishing the first step in the prog- 
 ress of disintegration. There is rock everywhere, 
 scattered stones, and bits of old flows protruding 
 from the ground. The air becomes much cooler, 
 as the road has ascended nearly 4,000 feet. Some- 
 times one gets a whiff of sulphur or sees a faint 
 wisp of steam hanging over a clump of ferns, but 
 there is no other indication of the nearness of an 
 active volcano. Then the road turns sharply to 
 the right and in a few minutes swings in through 
 beds of brilliant flowers to the door of the Volcano 
 House on the brink of the great crater of Kilauea. 
 
174. HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 The Volcano and the surrounding country, 
 which are too important to be merely incidental 
 to a trip around Hawaii, are described in the next 
 chapter. 
 
 In continuing the circuit of the Island, the road 
 leads around the western, highest wall of the 
 crater, at first straight toward the stupendous 
 dome of Mauna Loa, its broad, rounded summit 
 seemingly a short three or four miles away in the 
 clear morning air, whereas it is in reality twenty- 
 five miles as the bird flies. The ascent, moreover, 
 although gradual, is very difficult, owing to deep 
 cracks in the rock and to the roughness of the 
 lava flows, a roughness compared to which irregu- 
 larities in the surface of the most twisted glaciers 
 are hardly more than the rifts in children's 
 sand piles. Turning almost immediately to 
 the southward, the road enters a barren stretch 
 of country called the Kau Desert. It is 
 made up of lava flows, one on top of another, 
 some very recent, and what little soil there is, 
 is probably poisoned by the clouds of sulphur- 
 ous smoke blown across it from the Volcano. This 
 desert reaches to the sea, since many of the flows, 
 notably that of 1868, broke out only a few miles 
 from shore and fell over the low cliffs into the 
 water. Like all deserts, this of Kau has its fasci- 
 nation, but it is quite different from others, since 
 its predominating colours are black and grey and 
 
HAWAII 175 
 
 blue, unlike the sage green and brown of Arizona 
 or the gold and pink of North Africa. Beyond 
 the desert the road passes through a rich grazing 
 country, and then once more through sugar plan- 
 tations where the cane is carried to the mill in 
 flumes, sufficient water being obtained by driving 
 shafts high on the mountain side. This region has 
 not the great forests of the windward slopes as a 
 background. Instead there is always the impres- 
 sive upward swing of the bare land, green and 
 brown except where distant lava flows look like 
 sharp black shadows streaking the higher reaches 
 of Mauna Loa. One is usually impressed in the 
 Islands with the smallness of it all, with the near- 
 ness of the encompassing ocean. In Kau there is 
 none of this feeling. The majesty of the great 
 mountain meets and equalises the majesty of the 
 sea, which here takes its place as a beautiful frame, 
 without encroaching on the picture itself. After 
 passing Pahala, one of the largest and best planta- 
 tions in the district, and the one which plants cane 
 at higher levels than any other, the road drops 
 down to the shore at Honuapo, a picturesque vil- 
 lage which is the landing place for those who 
 choose to reach the Volcano from the leeward 
 side of the Island, going to the Volcano House by 
 stage and then by continuing to Hilo not 
 retracing their steps. Honuapo is the principal 
 seaport of the district of Kau, which district, in 
 
176 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 spite of its lack of valleys and therefore of run- 
 ning streams, and in spite of its immense lava- 
 covered areas, still supports two flourishing plan- 
 tations and is an excellent grazing country. In 
 olden times it had a large native population living 
 principally near the shore, who, by tapping under- 
 ground rivers, obtained abundance of good water. 
 The district is rich in Hawaiian folk-lore. 
 
 Turning due west from Honuapo, thus avoiding 
 the long south point of the Island, the road makes 
 a long four-mile ascent to Waiohinu, which ap- 
 pears suddenly, a village surrounded with splendid 
 trees and overgrown with rich vegetation — a 
 startling contrast after the endless, dry reaches 
 of Kau. This village is the seat of government 
 for the district, and besides two churches, a court 
 house, and jail, has a thoroughly comfortable inn. 
 Through the village runs the only stream in a 
 stretch of 150 miles along the coast. Still proceed- 
 ing westward, the road climbs in long curves and 
 loops to an altitude of about 2,000 feet and then 
 crosses another twenty miles of wild and desolate 
 country, devastated by three great eruptions from 
 Mauna Loa. In the short intervals between the 
 flows a sparse forest growth has held its own, and 
 everywhere growing in the crannies of the lava are 
 ferns, wild flowers, and morning-glories. 
 
 The district of Kona is reached before passing 
 out of this region of lava flows, the last of which 
 
HAWAII 177 
 
 to the westward is the glistening new flow of 1907. 
 On reaching Kona one cannot help feeling a change 
 in the atmosphere that seems to produce a change 
 in the whole aspect of the country. It is commonly 
 said that the trade winds make the climate of the 
 Islands, yet in Kona the trade winds do not blow, 
 and there the climate is perhaps pleasanter than 
 anywhere else. The coastline runs north and 
 south, but to the east the mass of Mauna Loa and 
 to the north the dome of Hualalai cut off the pas- 
 sage of the winds. Instead of the trades, there- 
 fore, a gentle west wind blows in all day from the 
 sea, piling its moisture in a bank of clouds against 
 the high lands to the east. As this bank spreads 
 seaward, following the sun, there are often showers 
 in the late afternoon or night. Always toward 
 sundown the sea breeze dies away, and in its place 
 springs up a breeze from the mountain, cold and 
 refreshing, which blows all night. With such a 
 climate Kona might be called almost abnormally 
 healthful, and there is an old Hawaiian saying 
 that " in the district people never die ; they dry 
 up and blow away." 
 
 Kona, the soil of which is made up entirely of 
 decomposed lava flows, is very hilly, but without 
 gulches or streams. On account of its regular 
 rainfall, it is one of the richest and most produc- 
 tive in Hawaii. Near the shore there is a narrow 
 strip of very dry land, bordered by an abrupt 
 
178 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 slope, above which are the upland plains, cool, 
 bracing, and plentifully watered. Along these 
 uplands, two miles or more from the shore, runs 
 the main road, with branches down to the landings. 
 Everything grows here, even though the land ap- 
 pears in places to be only a mass of loose rock. 
 Agriculturally the difficulty lies in expense of 
 transportation and distance from a market, which 
 makes the raising of perishable crops unprofitable. 
 The chief industry is the raising of coffee, the 
 best in the Island coming from Kona, and the fields 
 of neat little trees, dressed in their dark, shining 
 green leaves, or in a mantle of snow-white blossoms, 
 or studded with carmine berries, are always won- 
 derfully attractive. There are fields, too, of pine- 
 apples, of sisal on the dry coast. Vanilla twines 
 around the trunks of trees. Tobacco has lately 
 been planted, and the flourishing plantations, 
 which produce a very superior quality of leaf, 
 give every promise of success. A rocky country 
 it is, but radiant with a very varied vegetation ; 
 beautiful with the great, misty slopes of Mauna 
 Loa to the east, and of Hualalai, not so high, but 
 appearing so because it is steeper, to the north. 
 
 Kona abounds also in places of interest. At 
 Honaunau are the remains of an ancient city of 
 refuge occupying the six or seven acres of a low 
 lava point on the south side of the bay. The walls, 
 of which those on the south and east are almost 
 
HAWAII 179 
 
 intact, are about twelve feet high and eighteen 
 feet thick. One temple stood on a platform of 
 rock facing the bay, and below it was another and 
 larger temple, parts of which, including two sacri- 
 ficial altar stones, still remain. This is one of the 
 most famous of the Hawaiian ruins. It is com- 
 paratively well preserved, and is impressive in 
 its surroundings as well as for its size and history. 
 Many thousands would hardly equal the number 
 of those who must have been saved from death by 
 its protecting walls in the centuries that have 
 gone. A few miles further up the coast is Napoo- 
 poo, where Captain Cook landed and traded with 
 the natives, and across the bay is Kaawaloa, where 
 he was killed. Here, among the cocoanut trees 
 near the shore, where it can be seen from passing 
 vessels, has been put up a plain shaft of concrete 
 bearing the following inscription : " In Memory 
 of the Great Circumnavigator Captain James 
 Cook, R. N., who discovered these islands on the 
 18th of January, a. d. 1778, and fell near this 
 spot on the 14th of February, a. d. 1779. This 
 monument was erected in November, a. d. 1874, by 
 some of his fellow countrymen." A few miles north 
 of here on the beach road is the famous battle-field 
 of Kekuaokalani, where, after the ancient religion 
 was abolished, certain rebels under a chieftain 
 fought to restore the gods. They were decisively 
 beaten by Kamehameha II, with whom were the 
 
180 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 high priest of the old religion and many of the 
 more enlightened chiefs. The drive of eighteen miles 
 along the main road from Napoopoo northward 
 to Kailua has the reputation of being one of the 
 finest in the Territory. One rapidly approaches 
 Hualalai, and Mauna Loa, as it recedes, seems to 
 loom up higher than ever. The road is well above 
 the sea, so that the horizon is distant, the boun- 
 dary of a great mirror of placid blue water. At 
 Keauhou, a little more than halfway, there is a 
 splendidly preserved stone slide down a steep hill- 
 side — the best relic remaining of the popular 
 ancient Hawaiian sport of coasting. Extending 
 all through the district is an old stone wall, built 
 by enforced labour on command of the chiefs to 
 exclude animals from the agricultural lands on the 
 higher levels. Kailua itself, the chief landing for 
 north Kona, is a village on the seashore. Its most 
 striking feature is a large stone church built in 
 1835, when the surrounding country was thickly 
 populated. Here also is a square, plain, wooden 
 building surrounded with broad verandas — the 
 old palace of the kings. Kailua is hot but attrac- 
 tive with its cocoanuts and groves of other trees, 
 and if a steamer happens to be off port it is always 
 interesting to watch cattle being embarked. They 
 are tied by their horns to the outer sides of a 
 rowboat and so half-dragged, half-swimming, are 
 carried out to the ship, where they are hoisted 
 
HAWAII 181 
 
 to the decks with pulleys. It is a method which 
 might well appear primitive to those accustomed 
 to the operations of the Chicago Stock Yards. 
 Near Kailua, and indeed all through this region, 
 one sees the quaint old grass houses, relics of a 
 hundred years ago, that are even now occasionally 
 built in the old style. 
 
 From Kailua the road skirts the west slope of 
 Hualalai. The mountain rises gently at first, but 
 ends in a steep incline, which makes the ascent 
 difficult. There is a small crater at the top, but 
 no volcanic activity has occurred since 1901, 
 when a lava flow broke out on the lower slopes a 
 few miles north of Kailua. Kamehameha threw a 
 lock of his hair into the lava to appease the wrath 
 of Pele. On the sides of the mountain are several 
 yawning pits, the vents of ancient lava streams. 
 Except on the north side, which is nearly bare, 
 the slopes are thinly wooded, among the trees being 
 clumps of the cheromoya, or custard apple, a de- 
 licious tropical fruit with a rich and yet very 
 delicate flavour. It is unknown in commerce 
 because it does not keep after picking. Through 
 an excellent ranching country and through 
 growths of indigenous Hawaiian trees the road 
 winds its way, turning northward about ten miles 
 from Kailua and striking across country toward 
 Waimea in the district of Kohala. On the north- 
 erly slope of Hualalai the road crosses a lava 
 
182 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 flow so old that there is no tradition of its bursting 
 out, and yet it looks as fresh, the folds of lava as 
 polished, as though it had hardly cooled. In many 
 respects it is the most interesting of all Hawaiian 
 flows, presenting impressive evidences of tremen- 
 dous force and power. A few miles north of Hua- 
 lalai, where the road again strikes the vast slopes 
 of Mauna Loa, here fifty miles or more distant 
 from the summit, the great flow of the eruption of 
 1859 is crossed. This flow broke out near the 
 mountain top, and for months pressed on steadily 
 toward the sea, destroyed finally the fishing village 
 of Kiholo, filled completely the greatest and most 
 celebrated of Hawaiian fish ponds, and before it 
 ceased pushed out into the sea a rocky point of 
 several hundred acres. 
 
 Waimea lies 2,669 feet above sea level on the 
 plateau between Mauna Kea and the Kohala Moun- 
 tains. It is eleven miles from the seaport of Ka- 
 waihae to the west, and seventeen miles from the 
 Honokaa Landing directly east in the district of 
 Hamakua. Mails and passengers for this district 
 are usually landed on the west coast and carried 
 overland, since on the Hamakua coast there are 
 no harbours and the landings, disagreeable enough 
 at any time, are impossible in rough weather. The 
 side trip from Waimea to the desolate west coast 
 is hardly worth taking, as the road descends 
 through grazing lands similar to those in the direc- 
 
HAWAII US 
 
 tion of Kona, and there are neither lava flows nor 
 forests to relieve the monotony. The only thing 
 of interest at Kawaihae is a heiau, or temple, built 
 by Kamehameha in 1791. This was one of the 
 largest of the heiaus, and is far less ruined than 
 are most. With Waimea as a centre the side trip 
 to the north, on the contrary, is well worth the 
 extra day or two which must be devoted to it. 
 
 The town of Kohala is the centre of population 
 for the district and is the seat of the district court. 
 It is prettily situated, and has an unusually large 
 percentage of white people as well as a large Chi- 
 nese population. Near here Kamehameha was 
 born, and here he spent the last years of his 
 life, so the original of his statue in Honolulu 
 stands appropriately in the town. There is 
 here an excellent girls' industrial school, similar 
 in its purpose to the boys' school in Hilo. Kohala 
 is also at the centre of an extensive and long-estab- 
 lished sugar district. The plantations formerly 
 depended on rain for irrigation, but have now been 
 made independent of the rainfall by a great ditch 
 which carries water from twenty-five miles back 
 in the mountains. Like the great ditches on Kauai 
 and Maui, it was a difficult engineering feat, since 
 the water had to be brought for three-fifths of the 
 way through tunnels. The horseback ride along 
 the line of this ditch takes one through some of 
 the most magnificent scenery in the Islands. The 
 
184 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 Kohala Range is the oldest part of Hawaii, older 
 indeed than parts of the northwestern islands, and 
 as a result erosion has cut it into rugged and pre- 
 cipitous forms. It is through this chaos of moun- 
 tains, which rise to a height of 5,489 feet, that 
 the Kohala ditch runs, beginning in a reservoir 
 east of the mountains near the head of the superb 
 Waipio and Waimanu Valleys. These tremendous 
 gulches, and the sheer sea cliffs many hundred feet 
 high which separate them, seem possibly to be the 
 result of another fault by which a part of the 
 coast slid into the sea. Certainly to look down 
 into them from above one can scarcely believe that 
 erosion since the world began could have made 
 such clean-cut precipices nor carved out such 
 mighty gorges. Waipio runs back from the sea 
 four miles, and then turns at right angles west- 
 ward, ending back of Waimanu. Almost at the 
 turn and near the village of Waipio there used 
 to be a waterfall 1,700 feet high, but this can 
 be seen now only in very rainy weather, since its 
 water has been flumed away to carry cane to the 
 mills. Ulu Falls, practically inaccessible at the 
 very head of the Valley, is 3,000 feet high. 
 Waimanu Valley is not as deep as its neighbour, 
 nor as precipitous, but is far more beautiful in 
 shape and in colouring. The trip along the 
 Kohala ditch, a good day on horseback from the 
 town, not only leads through the grandest of 
 
HAWAII 185 
 
 mountain scenery, but allows one to look down 
 into these two extraordinary valleys. For one 
 making the circuit of the island by motor an 
 excellent side trip is therefore to leave the car 
 at Kohala and, taking the horseback ride through 
 the mountains, to meet it again on the road be- 
 tween Waimea and the Hamakua coast. 
 
 From Waimea, with its bracing air, its marvel- 
 lous views of the Kohala Mountains on one side 
 and of snow-capped Mauna Kea on the other, the 
 road to Hilo runs directly eastward to the coast. 
 The fork to the northwest adds a few miles to 
 the distance, but permits one to look into the 
 huge mouth of Waipio Valley before joining the 
 main road again at Honokaa. 
 
 From this village with its plantation and its 
 wild landing the road turns southeastward along 
 the Hamakua coast. This district, except for 
 the Waipio region in the north, has no springs 
 or running streams, owing to the abrupt slope of 
 the land. Ditches recently built have greatly im- 
 proved the plantations, as they have enabled them 
 to flume their cane and to irrigate during the 
 very rare times of drought. Some plantations 
 have built railroads to transport cane to the mills ; 
 one has instituted a complete overhead cable sys- 
 tem. The mills themselves are always on the 
 bluff over the ocean, where each has its own land- 
 ing. Sugar, freight, and passengers are lowered 
 
186 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 in baskets by cables into rowboats waiting at the 
 foot of the cliffs. Such an embarkation, with the 
 basket swinging in the wind, and the inevitable 
 curiosity as to whether one will finally reach the 
 boat or the water, is an experience which taxes 
 the nerves in any weather, and which in rough 
 weather is really dangerous. Hamakua, next to 
 Kona, is the principal coffee district of the Island, 
 and there are thriving plantations a little distance 
 up the slope of Mauna Kea along the edge of 
 the forest. The villages are divided between the 
 mills at the edge of the bluffs and the road about 
 a mile inland. The gulches to cross are unim- 
 portant and not particularly interesting, but the 
 gradually shifting view as one circles the moun- 
 tain, the freshness of the green cane, here always 
 washed clean with the frequent showers, the fields 
 of coffee, neat and polished looking, even in the 
 distance, the dark edge of the advancing and re- 
 treating forest, the bold outlines of the sea cliffs, 
 even the six sugar mills that are passed, make 
 this part of the trip constantly interesting. 
 
 On entering the district of Hilo at Ookala, 
 thirty-two miles from the town of Hilo, one has 
 reached a land of deep gulches, each with its 
 precipitous sides masked under a wild tangle of 
 trees and shrubs and vines. The road winds in and 
 out, up and down, crosses stream after stream. 
 In the gulches one has, through groves of cocoa- 
 
HAWAII 187 
 
 nuts, entrancing glimpses of the tumbling water, 
 with the surf gleaming white near the shore. Near 
 the streams the air is often heavy with the violent 
 perfume of lovely white or yellow ginger flowers. 
 High overhead swing the slender cane flumes that 
 carry the sugar cane to the mills on the shore. 
 On the ridges that separate the gulches the dark 
 blue horizon line curves out in a great half-circle 
 against the paler sky, and on the land side Mauna 
 Kea thrusts its snowy crest above the dark forests 
 and the ring of clouds above them. Across its 
 eastern shoulder, far beyond, the mighty summit 
 of Mauna Loa looks like the back of some levi- 
 athan, its monstrous body hidden behind the for- 
 ests and the low-lying mists. The whole coast, 
 with its rugged promontories, its bits of pale 
 green cane, its plantation houses in their groves 
 of trees, its precipices garlanded with sky-blue 
 morning-glories or golden nasturtiums, its cocoa- 
 nuts and bananas, with always the restlessly surg- 
 ing ocean on one side and on the other the serene 
 mountains, is a marvellous panorama, changing 
 with every turn, changing as the sunlight flashes 
 and as sudden showers veil the distant points. 
 
 The towns are unimportant. Laupahoehoe 
 stands on a leaf-shaped tongue of rock that juts 
 into the sea — " lava leaf " is the English of the 
 name. Surf always pounds on the shore, and 
 during a storm the roar of waters dominates all 
 
188 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 other sounds. The landing is from small boats 
 in a little cove which fortunately is smooth, even 
 though the sea outside may be very rough. If 
 it were not for the great dexterity of the Hawaiian 
 boatmen, who handle passengers as though they 
 were bags of sugar, embarking and disembarking 
 from rolling steamers into dancing row-boats 
 would be quite impossible. At Honomu an ex- 
 cellent Japanese school with a boarding depart- 
 ment has induced many Japanese to settle on the 
 adjacent lands. Back in the gulch and easily 
 reached is the Akaka Fall, 500 feet high, one 
 of the prettiest in the Islands, that tumbles over 
 the edge of jet-black rocks and into a basin back 
 of which is a deep, dark cave. At either side 
 the precipices are covered with maiden-hair and 
 other small ferns, and around the basin high trees 
 accentuate the altitude of the Fall. The natural 
 arch at Onomea marks the approach to Hilo and 
 the view of the beautiful crescent-shaped bay with 
 the tree-embowered town behind is a lovely ending 
 to an excursion which can nowhere be surpassed 
 in its infinite variety of glorious natural scenery. 
 No directions can be given as to stopping- 
 places along the route, because the distance cov- 
 ered each day must depend on the weather and 
 on the inclination of the traveller. There are 
 comfortable inns at the Volcano, at Waiohinu, 
 at Kealakekua Bay, at Kailua, at Waimea, at 
 
HAWAII 189 
 
 Kohala, at Honokaa, and at Laupahoehoe. 
 Granted good weather the tourist travelling by 
 automobile might plan to make his first stop at 
 the Volcano House, 31 miles, or with the side 
 trip into Puna, 77 miles; his next at Waiohinu, 
 42 miles ; his next at Kealakekua, 42 miles ; his 
 next at Waimea, 35 miles (the road is in parts 
 not very good) ; the side trip to Kohala and back 
 to Waimea is 56 miles, and the night might well 
 be spent in Kohala, proceeding next to Honokaa, 
 44 miles; the last day to Hilo, 50 miles. It 
 would be possible to make the circuit of the Island 
 by automobile in three days, omitting all the 
 side trips, but for full enjoyment of the scenery 
 and to visit the various points of interest, a week 
 is none too much. Accommodations are every- 
 where simple, but everywhere clean and comfort- 
 able, and a breakdown is nowhere serious, since 
 even in villages where there are no inns the people 
 are hospitable and are always glad to take in 
 strangers. 
 
 For those able and willing to take long, rough 
 horseback trips there are three excursions at least 
 which are well worth while. First is the ascent 
 of Mauna Loa. This can perhaps best be made 
 from the ranch of the Hawaiian Agricultural 
 Company at Pahala, Kau, on the south side of 
 the mountain, where Mr. Monserratt, the manager 
 of the ranch, will make all arrangements. The 
 
190 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 trail leads up the shoulder of the mountain over 
 the roughest possible lava flows through country 
 that is superb in the desolation of its high wind- 
 swept places. The ascent takes a full day and 
 the night is spent on the brink of the great summit 
 crater of Mokuaweoweo. At an altitude of nearly 
 14,000 feet the nights are of course always very 
 cold. The ascent can also be made, if more con- 
 venient, from the west side, from Napoopoo in 
 Kona, where Mr. John Gaspar takes charge of 
 arrangements. This trip is longer, taking usu- 
 ally three days to go up and back, but has the 
 advantage of finer views, since both Hualalai and 
 Mauna Kea are visible for the greater part of 
 the time. 
 
 The second excursion, and one less often taken, 
 is the ascent of Mauna Kea. The best point of 
 departure is from the Parkers' sheep ranch, which 
 is situated thirty-five or forty miles from Waimea 
 on the great upland plateau between the three 
 mountains. Mauna Kea, which is the highest 
 island mountain in the world, has a summit plat- 
 form five miles long and two wide, and it is the 
 huge cinder cones on this platform, which from 
 below look like peaks, which make this mountain 
 higher than its greater neighbour. On this plat- 
 form, 12,000 feet above sea level, is an ancient 
 quarry, where the natives in olden times made 
 their stone adzes and weapons. There is also a 
 
HAWAII 191 
 
 small lake fed from the melting snows. From 
 the Parkers' ranch it is possible to go to the 
 top and back in one long day, and through the 
 courtesy of the Parkers two nights may be spent 
 at the ranch. The ascent may also be made from 
 Mana on the northwest side, from Keanakola on 
 the north, or from Papaiko on the east, arrange- 
 ments for the trip being made in Hilo. Any one 
 of these routes leads through the native forests, 
 here quite untouched, as well as over the rocky 
 region above the forest line, but any one takes 
 more time than the first. 
 
 Another most interesting and almost unknown 
 horseback trip is that from Kalaeha to Kilauea. 
 This trail leads through magnificent and quite 
 unexplored forests and across lava flows most 
 fantastic in their formations. It takes one 
 through some of the most beautiful country on 
 Hawaii, through regions that are practically un- 
 known, and where one can see the virgin tropical 
 forests as wild and tangled as they were before 
 the discovery of the Islands. Arrangements for 
 this excursion, which takes three days, must be 
 made with Mr. Shipman in Hilo. 
 
 These three trips, although perfectly practica- 
 ble for good riders, are seldom taken by tourists, 
 who think that when they have seen Kilauea, 
 certainly when they have made the circuit of the 
 Island, they have seen all that there is to be seen. 
 
192 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 Only by going off the beaten track, however, can 
 one get a true impression of the country; only 
 in this way an idea of the natural scenery un- 
 affected by civilisation — scenery which happens to 
 be of supreme natural beauty. Only by taking 
 such trips as these, moreover, can the tourist 
 realise that Hawaii is fully in the tropics, a land 
 of superabundant, huge-leaved, multi-coloured 
 growth. Tourists who wish to see these things 
 should remember that except for the ascent of 
 Mauna Loa, which, although the hardest trip, is 
 often taken, notice of at least two or three days 
 should be given so that arrangements can be 
 made. 
 
 Even if it had no volcanoes Hawaii, with its 
 magnificent mountains and its endless variety of 
 climate and scenery, would well repay a visit of 
 several days. It is, however, the volcanoes and 
 especially the great active volcano of Kilauea 
 which make the crossing to the Island imperative 
 and which would make worth while a journey half 
 way around the world. 
 
CHAPTER XI 
 
 THE VOLCANOES 
 
 According to all the rules of school geographies 
 a volcano ought to be situated on top of a moun- 
 tain ; it ought to throw out stones, and ashes, and 
 molten lava; its crater should be in the shape of 
 an inverted cone and should emit terrifying 
 noises; periodically it should overwhelm a village 
 or two. Kilauea conforms to none of these speci- 
 fications. Although it probably started out to 
 make a mountain of its own, it is actually 4,000 
 feet above sea level on the southeastern slope of 
 Mauna Loa. It has thrown out neither stones 
 nor ashes since it annihilated the army that was 
 marching against Kamehameha, almost a hundred 
 and fifty years ago. It retains its lava within 
 its own crater, which is not shaped like an in- 
 verted cone. The walls, on the contrary, are 
 vertical, and the floor, except that it rises toward 
 the southern part, horizontal. The sides are 
 from 100 to 700 feet high and 7.85 miles in 
 circumference, and the floor covers 2,650 acres. 
 The volcano seldom makes terrifying noises — at 
 least, of the kind heard in imagination by a school- 
 boy. Thousands of people descend into the 
 193 
 
194 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 crater annually, and not one has ever been in- 
 jured. In fact, it is excellently behaved, not 
 being, like Vesuvius and Etna, one of the explo- 
 sive class of volcanoes. 
 
 The Volcano House stands on the northern 
 bank of the crater, with a wonderful view across 
 it, in clear weather, to the sea ; of the great snowy 
 mass of Mauna Loa to the west, and of the peak 
 of Mauna Kea above the forests away to the 
 northward. Back of it are beautiful koa forests, 
 and some of the best masses of tree ferns to be 
 found anywhere. The only caution to be observed 
 in the vicinity of the crater is to walk always 
 where the ground is visible, never to take short 
 cuts through clumps of ferns, since the country 
 is intersected with cracks, and the warm steam 
 issuing from them and keeping the ground moist, 
 usually induces heavy growth. Some of these 
 steam-cracks are large enough to fall into, and 
 as they are very hot a few feet down such a fall 
 might be a serious matter. Animals have been 
 killed in this way. Just toward the mountain 
 from the Volcano House steam issues from banks 
 of red earth through myriads of tiny holes, and 
 has encrusted the banks with sulphur, brilliant 
 yellow and white against the red, in places 
 formed into the most delicate crystals. The sep- 
 arate little orifices are too hot to touch with the 
 bare hand, but the banks are safe to walk over. 
 
THE VOLCANOES 195 
 
 Steam is brought from them in wooden pipes to 
 a bath-house, where one can take the most re- 
 freshing of natural Turkish baths. 
 
 The main interest naturally centres in the trip 
 to the crater. The old approach, still advisable 
 for good walkers, is by a path down the side, 
 which is here broken and wooded, directly in front 
 of the hotel. During the descent one passes 
 under low growing lehna trees, and by many 
 sturdy little yellow-green leaved sandalwood trees 
 that have made their slow growth since the time 
 of the mad exportation of sandalwood in the early 
 nineteenth century. The walk across the floor 
 of the crater, about two and one-half miles, is 
 over a hard lava bed, more or less up and down, 
 since lava hardens quickly and remains as it 
 flowed, in great ropes and ripples. A few yards 
 from shore — one comes naturally to call the bank 
 " shore " — a ragged crack is crossed by a wooden 
 bridge. At the time this crack opened a large 
 party was in the crater. They stayed long be- 
 cause they were delighted with the unusual activ- 
 ity of the lake and had no idea that this activity 
 extended beyond the pit of fire until at last they 
 started to go back to the hotel. It was night, 
 and as they approached the northern bank of 
 the crater their lanterns suddenly revealed a huge 
 fissure directly across their path. Already 
 molten lava was bubbling up at the bottom. They 
 
196 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 followed the edge of the crack, keenly conscious, 
 undoubtedly, as they turned to keep parallel with 
 the crater wall, that they were on the inner edge. 
 At last they found a spot where the lava had 
 split unevenly, leaving a projecting ledge on 
 which it was possible to stand and so to jump to 
 the other side. The whole experience, with the 
 thought of sinking to the fires beneath, or of being 
 overwhelmed by the lava slowly rising in the fis- 
 sure, and the utter helplessness of their situation, 
 was enough to test the most fearless. 
 
 As the trail winds across the uneven lava one 
 is tempted again and again to turn aside to ex- 
 plore some curious cone or unusual formations, 
 but always even more tempting is the sharp black 
 line ahead that cuts across the lazy clouds of yel- 
 low smoke. Even the afternoon colours on the 
 mountain, the wonder of the whole great, strange 
 crater, fail to divert attention from that black 
 rim. Curiosity as to what is back of it, below 
 it, overcomes all other feelings. One reaches it 
 suddenly. It is a rim, as it looked, the rim of a 
 profounder pit, a crater within the crater. The 
 cavity is perhaps 1,000 feet across, and its pre- 
 cipitous sides lead down to a lake of molten lava 
 several acres in extent, sometimes higher, some- 
 times lower in the pit. This is Halemaumau, 
 which is commonly translated the " house of ever- 
 lasting fire," but which undoubtedly means the 
 
The Rim of the Crater of Haleakala 
 
THE VOLCANOES 197 
 
 ** home of the Maumau fern," this fern having a 
 leaf which the twisted and curled lava strongly 
 suggests. But whatever its name, Halemaumau 
 is certainly the centre of volcanic activity, the 
 house of the goddess Pele. 
 
 By daylight the lake of fire is a greenish yel- 
 low, cut with ragged cracks of red that look like 
 pale streaks of stationary lightning across its 
 surface. It is restless, breathing rapidly, bub- 
 bling up at one point and sinking down in an- 
 other; throwing up sudden fountains of scarlet 
 molten lava that play a few minutes and subside, 
 leaving shimmering mounds which gradually settle 
 to the level surface of the lake, turning brown 
 and yellow as they sink. But as the daylight 
 fades the fires of the pit shine more brightly. 
 Mauna Loa, behind, becomes a pale, grey-blue, 
 insubstantial dome, and overhead stars begin to 
 appear. As darkness comes the colours on the 
 lake grow so intense that they almost hurt. The 
 fire is not only red; it is blue and purple and 
 orange and green. Blue flames shimmer and dart 
 about the edges of the pit, back and forth across 
 "ftil surface of the restless mass. Sudden foun- 
 tains paint blood-red the great plume of sulphur 
 smoke that rises constantly, to drift away across 
 the poisoned desert of Kau. ^Sometimes the 
 spurts of lava are so violent, so exaggerated by 
 the night, that one draws back terrified lest some 
 
198 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 atom of their molten substance should spatter 
 over the edge of the precipice. Sometimes the 
 whole lake is in motion. Waves of fire toss and 
 battle with each other and dash in clouds of 
 bright vermilion spray against the black sides 
 of the pit. Sometimes one of these sides falls 
 in with a roar that echoes back and forth, and 
 mighty rocks are swallowed in the liquid mass of 
 fire that closes over them in a whirlpool, like 
 water over a sinking ship. Again everything is 
 quiet, a thick scum forms over the surface of the 
 lake, dead, like the scum on the surface of a 
 lonely forest pool. Then it shivers. Flashes of 
 fire dart from side to side. The centre bursts 
 open and a huge fountain of lava twenty feet 
 thick and fifty high streams into the air and 
 plays for several minutes, waves of blinding fire 
 flowing out from it, dashing against the sides 
 until the black rocks are starred all over with 
 bits of scarlet. To the spectator there is, 
 through it all, no sense of fear. So intense, so 
 tremendous is the spectacle that silly little human 
 feelings find no place. All sensations are sub- 
 merged in a sense of awe. Nor is there ever a 
 suggestion of weariness when sense of time is lost. 
 The guide's quiet warning that the hour ap- 
 proaches midnight is an unwelcome shock, but 
 without protest, with only unexpressed regret 
 the party turns away a few steps to the east- 
 
THE VOLCANOES 199 
 
 ward, where motors — strange anomaly among 
 these primeval forces — are waiting at the end of 
 the new road that leads up the low southeastern 
 bank of the crater and so back to the Volcano 
 House. This vision of the earth-building forces 
 at work is a picture so overpowering that it is 
 burned into the memory for all time, can always 
 be recalled in every detail as though one were 
 standing on the brink of Halemaumau. 
 
 Not always has Kilauea been what it is now, 
 an enormous, quiescent crater with an active in- 
 ner pit. It has changed in character with the 
 decades, sometimes with the seasons. Its own 
 mountain has been submerged in the course of 
 centuries by the masses of lava which have been 
 piled against its western slopes by volcanic action 
 from Mauna Loa. The vent through which its 
 fires are forced is far below the surface of the 
 sea. Around this vent have been built layer 
 after layer of solid lava, each layer the result 
 of a new eruption, but as the crater above the 
 vent has been pushed higher and higher, the 
 weight of the molten column has become propor- 
 tionately greater and it has more and more tended 
 to find the weak places in the surrounding walls 
 and so to force an outlet lower down, sometimes 
 many miles distant from the crater. This ac- 
 counts for the innumerable lava flows which may 
 be seen everywhere on the sides of Mauna Loa, 
 
200 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 and in this way, for centuries, Kilauea has built 
 its mountain, spreading in bulk below and not 
 overflowing at the top. How long this process 
 will last, when the weak spots in the walls will 
 have been made solid by new flows, thus forcing 
 an overflow from the crater itself, is a problem 
 to which there is no answer. The only violent 
 eruption actually from the crater, of which there 
 is authentic record or even legend, is that which 
 destroyed the enemies of Kamehameha in 1789, 
 and this came after the Volcano had been, appar- 
 ently, completely inactive for a long period of 
 years, the natural vent being temporarily sealed 
 and therefore breaking out finally in an eruption 
 similar in kind and as unexpected as the eruption 
 of Vesuvius which destroyed Pompeii. Stones 
 scattered all over the surrounding country, espe- 
 cially to the south, still bear witness to the vio- 
 lence of the outburst. Nothing of the kind has 
 since occurred, and nothing similar can occur un- 
 less the molten lava in Halemaumau should solid- 
 ify, thus closing the natural outlet for the forces 
 beneath. 
 
 The first white man to write of Kilauea was 
 Mr. Ellis, who visited the crater in 1823, and 
 what he saw was very diff^erent from what one 
 sees to-day. Evidently the whole floor of the 
 crater was active, and Mr. Ellis described it as 
 follows : " The southwest and northern parts of 
 
THE VOLCANOES 201 
 
 the crater were one vast flood of liquid fire, 
 in a state of terrific ebullition. . . . Fifty-one 
 craters of varied form and size rose like so many 
 conical islands from the surface of the burning 
 lake. Twenty-two constantly emitted columns of 
 grey smoke or pyramids of brilliant flame, and 
 many of them at the same time vomited from their 
 ignited mouths streams of fluid lava, which rolled 
 in blazing torrents down their black, indented 
 sides, into the boiling mass." * Since that time 
 changes have been rapid. In 1832 the floor fell, 
 making the crater about 2,000 feet deep. In 
 1840 the whole crater was again in a state of 
 violent action until the lava found its way through 
 unknown channels underground, broke out eleven 
 miles from the coast, and flowed into the sea, thus 
 draining away the molten mass in Kilauea. In 
 1848 a lava dome was formed over the lake of 
 fire, confined then within what seems its normal 
 area — a dome so high that it overtopped the walls 
 of the crater. In 1868 all signs of activity dis- 
 appeared, leaving only a great, fuming cavity, 
 but three years later the fire lake was again full. 
 In 1880 the whole floor of the crater rose in a 
 fairly regular dome, which was surmounted by 
 four lakes of fire, each about 1,000 feet in diame- 
 ter. In^ 1886 all fire had again disappeared, but 
 soon returned, forming other lakes and debris 
 ♦EUis: *' Tour of Hawaii.'* 
 
202 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 cones which were higher than the outer walls of 
 the crater.* There came a time, between 1900 
 and 1907, when the activity was very slight, and 
 when people wondered whether Pele had died with 
 the Monarchy, but during the last few years 
 Kilauea has been continuously active. There is 
 only one lake of fire, to be sure, which rises and 
 falls in the most unexpected manner, sometimes 
 draining away like wheat in the bottom of a fun- 
 nel, but always bubbling back in a few days or 
 hours, and always in a state of violent and fiery 
 unrest. What changes future years will bring is 
 one of the mysteries which make the Volcano so 
 fascinating. Certainly the visitors' register at 
 the Volcano House, which contains detailed ac- 
 counts, often with drawings of occurrences seen 
 by tourists and by scientists for many years back, 
 will record as extraordinary events in the years 
 to come. 
 
 An observation station, under the auspices of 
 the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, has 
 recently been established at the edge of Halemau- 
 
 *In 1885 I first saw the Volcano. The long horseback trip 
 — there was no road— was a weary ride for a very small boy, 
 but the amazing impression made by the several active lakes of 
 molten lava remains as vivid to-day as it was then. I remem- 
 ber that my hat fell into a cone, and I saw it turned instantly 
 into the ashen semblance of a hat. I wondered whether it 
 would still be there when I went to the Volcano three or four 
 years later. 
 
THE VOLCANOES - 20S 
 
 mau. Dr. F. A. Perrett, in charge of the sta- 
 tion, sends most interesting weekly bulletins while 
 he is at the Volcano to the Hawaiian Commercial 
 Advertiser in Honolulu, and the series of these 
 bulletins forms a valuable and practically unique 
 scientific record of volcanic phenomena. The tem- 
 perature of the lava has been found by experi- 
 ment to be about 1,750° Fahrenheit. The daily, 
 almost hourly, observations have finally proved 
 much that was formerly only suspected about con- 
 ditions and periods of activity. The floating 
 islands in the lake have been studied, and it was 
 found that they greatly affected the lava foun- 
 tains. Even the most regular of these — called, 
 of course, " Old Faithful " — became very uncer- 
 tain in its action when an island moved into its 
 vicinity, probably because the solid mass apprecia- 
 bly cooled and therefore thickened the fluid lava. 
 All sorts of instruments are used in recording the 
 various phases of action, and cameras fix any 
 unusual visible manifestations. The reports to 
 be published by the scientists in charge are ex- 
 pected to be illuminating in the facts which they 
 will definitely establish. 
 
 The new road into the crater, which follows 
 the eastern bank and descends a long spur to 
 within a hundred yards or so of Halemaumau, is 
 familiarly called " the Road to Hell." Certainly 
 the lake of molten lava fulfils as nearly as pos- 
 
204 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 sible all standard descriptions of that tragic 
 place. One is tempted to believe that Dante and 
 Milton and the rest must have seen this or some 
 similar volcano to make their details so realistic, 
 so true to volcanic reality. From its beginning, 
 too, the new road suggests the pleasant, sinuous 
 charm of the broad way which does not lead to 
 Heaven. Soon after leaving the hotel it plunges 
 into low woods and winds among trees and clumps 
 of ferns, giving every now and then wonderful 
 glimpses of the crater and of the superb mountain 
 beyond. Along its edges grow little ohelo bushes, 
 spangled with their refreshing fruit, the taste of 
 blueberries but the size of small grapes, canary 
 yellow, or pink, or carmine in colour. After 
 about a mile and a half the road reaches the 
 brink of Kilaueaiki, " Little Kilauea," a small 
 extinct crater about half a mile across and 800 
 feet deep, with walls that are very precipitous, 
 but covered with shrubbery and ferns and with a 
 floor similar to that of the great crater. Its sides 
 are lowest toward Kilauea, with which it seems 
 almost to have been connected. A steep path 
 leads down to the floor, a path almost perpendicu- 
 lar in places, but interesting and to be rec- 
 ommended for good climbers. This unexpected 
 little crater is very beautiful, in looks much more 
 what one would expect a volcano to be than is 
 Kilauea itself. The road then circles closely the 
 
THE VOLCANOES 205 
 
 east bank of Kilaueaiki and turns westward 
 through sparse growth toward the great crater. 
 Before reaching the long spur down which it runs 
 to the lake of fire, however, it passes another in- 
 teresting little dead crater, Keanakakoe, " the 
 cave for cutting axes," only about 400 feet deep 
 and with a floor jet-black and polished, as smooth 
 as the floor of a ballroom. When this pit ceased 
 to be active the lava must have been at intense 
 heat and therefore very liquid, so that, as it cooled, 
 the surface was left without a ripple, with hardly 
 a crack — none more than an inch wide — and as 
 hard and glassy as obsidian. It was this brittle, 
 impermeable rock, found also in the crater of the 
 same name at the summit of Mauna Kea — that 
 the Hawaiians used to make into weapons and 
 agricultural implements. Even to-day the floor 
 of the crater is strewn with half-finished axes and 
 picks. The descent into Kilauea is easy, and the 
 road continues across the hard lava floor almost 
 to the edge of Halemaumau. 
 
 The whole vast floor of Kilauea is well worth 
 exploring by daylight, but to one unaccustomed 
 to surface indications it is safer to take a guide, 
 as the crust in places is thin, and to break through 
 would mean serious cuts on the sharp edges 
 of the lava, in addition to the possibility of dis- 
 aster, since one can never be sure in the crater 
 of an active volcano as to what may be underneath 
 
«06 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 any particular spot. The edges of the floor are 
 interesting where the molten lava has piled up 
 against the sides and then, cooling, has shrunk 
 away, looking now like waves which have frozen 
 into black ice on a beach. There are curious 
 cones which not so very long ago spouted out 
 smoke and sparks like great furnace blow-pipes. 
 There are deep caves which can be explored with 
 lanterns, tunnels through which flowed fiery 
 streams and where the lava cooled in fantastic 
 forms — caves which can be entered only for a 
 certain distance since the heat in the ends toward 
 Halemaumau is too great to be endured. Some- 
 times one finds masses of a kind of greenish lava 
 foam thrown out at times of violent eruptions, a 
 foam made of innumerable minute cells like honey- 
 comb and as light as sea-foam. There are also in 
 places wisps of " Pele's hair " caught on the ragged 
 edges of rock, light brown, as delicate and as 
 brittle as spun glass, the long filaments drawn 
 from the drops of molten lava as they fell from 
 the fountains and were blown away. No minerals 
 are to be found except sulphur, and even this is 
 not very abundant in the crater. Near the top 
 of the west bank, which is much the highest, there 
 are olivine crystals in the lava debris caught on 
 the ledges, but they are imperfect and hardly 
 worth searching for. One thing surely to re- 
 member in tramping about the floor of the crater 
 
THE VOLCANOES 207 
 
 is not to get to leeward of the burning pit, because 
 there the sulphur fumes are sometimes almost 
 overpowering. Indeed, it is probably this smoke, 
 drifting with the trade wind across the south 
 bank of the crater, which has helped to make the 
 desert of Kau so utterly barren and desolate. 
 One of the glories of the whole crater in the sun- 
 light is its colour. The lava is black, yet its 
 polished surface is iridescent, sparkling with all 
 the colours of the prism. So an artist, to give 
 the real impression, uses, instead of black, his 
 most brilliant colours. 
 
 There is a probability that all the land in the 
 vicinity of Kilauea will be made into a national 
 park reserve, an act which Congress should surely 
 pass, since no other area of fifty square miles 
 within the boundaries of the United States con- 
 tains so many wonders. Even if the Volcano 
 were not active the great pit and the interesting 
 phenomena of the surrounding country would 
 offer as much to see as do any of the great con- 
 tinental national parks. Back of the Volcano 
 House are lovely woods, with every now and then 
 an open glade ringed by a rank growth of ferns 
 and of vines bearing the delicious little scarlet 
 thimble-berries which grow wild all through the 
 region. A few miles through these woods leads 
 one to a splendid koa forest and to the mill of 
 the Hawaiian Mahogany Lumber Company, where 
 
208 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 the koa is sawed into boards and shipped away. 
 The trees in this forest are very old, as can be 
 seen by their huge knotted trunks and their 
 twisted limbs. They would look like ancient oaks 
 except that on the full-grown trees the leaves are 
 chescent-shaped and polished, and on the younger 
 shoots lace-like, as are the leaves of the mimosa. 
 Near here are the tree-moulds formed by some 
 ancient lava flow. The molten lava, making its 
 way through the forest, surrounded the great 
 trunks of the trees, burning them finally, of 
 course, but hardening so quickly that it recorded 
 faithfully every line of the bark before the tree 
 was turned into ashes. Over the flow new growth 
 has started, but here and there are holes in the 
 ground as round, as even, as delicately chiselled 
 as though they were casts for future columns. 
 Here, too, are forests of tree ferns, finer than 
 any to be seen elsewhere, except in the jungle, 
 because they are quite untouched. With a guide 
 it is possible to leave the beaten trail and to 
 wander about in the cool shade of these giant 
 ferns, treading always the thick carpet of moss; 
 to pull from the bases of the leaves the soft 
 " pulu," a fine-spun fibre that is often used for 
 making mattresses. This is by far the most thor- 
 oughly tropical growth that it is possible to see 
 in the Islands without really forsaking the normal 
 routes, without really getting far off^ into un- 
 
THE VOLCANOES 209 
 
 visited valleys and nearly impenetrable for- 
 ests. 
 
 A delightful day on horseback, some twenty- 
 five miles of rough riding, may be spent in a visit 
 to the Six Craters east of Kilauea. First to be 
 reached are The Twins, two small ancient craters, 
 not very deep, quite filled now with vegetation, 
 which clambers over their walls and reaches up 
 from below toward the freer air and the sunlight. 
 On the floors grow trees and shrubbery, so that 
 except for the cup shape there is nothing to in- 
 dicate volcanic origin. The two little craters 
 side by side are almost identical. Next comes 
 Puu Huluhulu, a cone crater in the top of a hill 
 which stands boldly in the sweep of the upland 
 plains. A clamber up its steep sides rewards 
 one with a magnificent view of all the surrounding 
 country. The two mountains stand out, infinitely 
 high in the late morning, when clouds have ringed 
 around their lower slopes, so that one is more 
 than ever impressed, especially with the nearer 
 dome of Mauna Loa, by far the highest mountain 
 of its kind in the world, and certainly the most 
 beautiful in contour. Far to the northwest is 
 the higher peak of Mauna Kea, but in mass the 
 mountain does not compare with its sister. And 
 to east and south is the opalescent plain of the 
 Pacific. From this cone crater one continues a 
 short distance to the Two Orphans — the loneliest, 
 
210 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 most neglected of little craters. They are in 
 thick woods quite close to each other. Nothing 
 indicates their proximity. Ferns and trees mask 
 the approaches to them on every side. No well- 
 defined rims, no outward slope from them, exist 
 to indicate that they were originally cones —   
 quite unexpectedly the ground sinks away, leav- 
 ing these two queer, lost, cup-shaped depressions 
 in the woods, startling because they are there at 
 all, giving one an almost uncanny feeling. Even 
 dead volcanoes do not so absolutely hide them- 
 selves. Nothing normal in nature is so almost 
 consciously unobtrusive. One turns away as 
 though it had been an indiscretion to invade that 
 solitude. The woods soon become sparser, and 
 the great plains roll onward in undulating lines 
 beyond which one feels the sea. A low growth 
 just obstructs the nearer view. It is, therefore, 
 appalling when the horses stop abruptly at the 
 edge of Kamakaopuhi, the last and by far the 
 most wonderful of the Six Craters. It drops 
 from the surface of the plain for 700 or 800 feet 
 in sheer precipices. There a ledge, varying in 
 width, gives a chance for trees to grow — trees 
 that look like the toy trees of a child's garden, 
 so far below are they. And then, in the centre, 
 is another sheer drop of 1,200 or 1,300 feet, at 
 the bottom of which only a bit of the crater floor 
 is visible. Far, far below little clouds of white 
 
THE VOLCANOES 211 
 
 steam jet from the sides to drift upward in the 
 still air. The silence is amazing. As one looks 
 the crater grows deeper and deeper until it seems 
 to be the most profound chasm in the earth's crust. 
 To right and left are endless plains; beyond the 
 further bank the same plains sweep onward to the 
 sea; and yet, at one's feet, one looks down and 
 down. Perhaps some prehistoric man reversed 
 the idea of the Tower of Babel, and instead of 
 trying to build to heaven set out to dig a passage- 
 way to hell — and almost succeeded, as the little 
 jets of steam bear witness. The Hawaiian name, 
 Kamakaopuhi, " The Eye of the Eel," has its 
 poetic fitness, whether it be taken literally or, as 
 is more probable, as referring to some long since 
 forgotten eel god. It is like a black eye, this vast 
 pit, staring from the face of the plain into the 
 endless sky. 
 
 One trip into the crater of Kilauea is not 
 enough. Every visitor should get to know the 
 lake of fire as well by day as by night, for, as 
 Dr. Perrett says, although it is more spectacular 
 by night, it is far more interesting by daylight, 
 when its constant changes can be seen. And 
 when in addition to the Volcano there are so many 
 other attractions in the neighbourhood a week is 
 none too long a time to stay, and two weeks are 
 exactly twice as good as one. 
 
 The summit crater of Mauna Loa, Mokuaweo- 
 
212 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 weo, is smaller than Kilauea, but is still the second 
 largest active volcano in the world. This crater, 
 three and three-quarters miles long by one and 
 one-quarter wide, is about 400 feet deep. When 
 in action it is quite as spectacular as is Kilauea, 
 and is often much more so, but as its activity 
 occurs only at irregular intervals of several years, 
 the man who happens to ascend the mountain at 
 just the right time is very fortunate. In 1880 
 a man was alone at the summit. He slept in a 
 little tent at the edge of the crater, which was 
 as usual dark. During the night he was waked 
 by a dazzling light, and rushing from his shelter 
 saw playing in the centre of the crater a jet of 
 lava which spouted nearly a thousand feet into 
 the air. The top of this fountain was visible from 
 the shores of the Island and from the ocean for 
 miles around. Such an experience comes to but 
 few men, and the long, difficult ascent of the moun- 
 tain, as well as the great altitude, will always 
 prevent many people from visiting this volcano 
 even during its rare eruptions. 
 
 As a general rule activity in this summit crater 
 is preliminary to a lava flow which breaks out 
 somewhere along the sides of the mountain. The 
 fluid mass finds its way to the crater, and its sub- 
 sequent outbreak lower down is a natural enough 
 phenomenon when one considers the enormous 
 weight and the consequent lateral pressure of a 
 
THE VOLCANOES 213 
 
 column of liquid lava rising nearly 14,000 feet 
 above sea level and no one knows from how far 
 below. The only extraordinary thing is that it 
 does not more quickly find some weak spot in the 
 side of the tube and break through long before 
 reaching the summit crater. Of these lava flows 
 there have been eleven during the last century, 
 nine from Mauna Loa, one from Hualalai, and 
 one from Kilauea. Three times the town of Hilo 
 has been threatened, the lava once coming within 
 a mile. So far as is known, however, no lives 
 have been lost in any of these flows. The lava 
 breaks out far up on the uninhabited slopes, is 
 very liquid, and therefore runs fast at first, but 
 it cools rapidly, banks up, and has to break 
 through its own embankments, so that by the time 
 it approaches the sea it advances at the rate of 
 only a few yards each day. So certain is this 
 action that people who go to see the flows camp 
 directly in front of them, moving their tents only 
 when the lava gets near enough to be uncomfort- 
 ably warm. In the rare instances when flows have 
 reached the sea anywhere along a precipitous 
 coast, the sight from boats, of the molten lava 
 pouring over the cliff^s and crashing in clouds of 
 steam into the sea, has been indescribably im- 
 pressive. 
 
 Hawaii is, of course, still in the process of 
 building. Its lavas are so liquid, so thoroughly 
 
214 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 fused, however, that the danger of explosive vol- 
 canic outbreaks is reduced to a minimum. A 
 rancher on the uplands is wise to take account of 
 the one chance in a million and build his house 
 on a hill, rather than in a depression, so that no 
 sudden flow can overwhelm him. Any man own- 
 ing an upland ranch has always before him the 
 unpleasant possibility of waking some morning 
 to find that a section of his best pasture land is 
 being buried under a layer of hard, sterile rock, 
 and the knowledge that in anywhere from a thou- 
 sand to ten thousand years this rock will have 
 disintegrated into splendidly fertile soil is no im- 
 mediate consolation. No man, on the contrary, 
 ever lives in fear of his life because of the vol- 
 canoes. The people who live in the hotels near 
 Kilauea have rightly no more thought of danger 
 than have those who live in hotels on the Atlantic 
 sea-board. And this " volcanic safety," as it 
 might be called, is not merely the result of long 
 years of immunity. It is corroborated by the 
 highest scientific authority. The tourist, there- 
 fore, in making the trip to Kilauea need think 
 only that he is going to see the most magnificent 
 spectacle which the world affords, that he is to 
 have one of the most thrilling experiences of his 
 life, with no more personal danger than he would 
 incur in a railroad trip from Boston to New 
 York. And if he still feels that the goddess of 
 
THE VOLCANOES 215 
 
 fire should be propitiated, let him follow the old 
 Hawaiian custom of throwing a few ohelo berries 
 into the burning lake as a sacrifice to Pele. Per- 
 haps she will reward him by forcing upward an 
 extra lava fountain that will spray out into a 
 great bouquet made up of all the colours of all 
 the gorgeous flowers of the Orient, 
 
CHAPTER XII 
 
 -A 
 
 ISLAND LIFE 
 
 People work in Hawaii. For those whose lots 
 are cast permanently in the Islands life is not 
 what it appears superficially to the tourist, one 
 long, happy holiday. Nor is there here, as in 
 so many tropical countries, a three-hour hiatus 
 in the middle of the day, when men and women 
 take their siesta. Hours of business are what 
 they are in New York or Chicago, and life is 
 planned — too completely, perhaps — along north- 
 ern lines. In Honolulu men go usually to their 
 clubs to luncheon — the Pacific, the University, or 
 the City Club — talk business and hurry back to 
 a long afternoon in their offices. These clubs, 
 it is fair to say, are delightfully arranged build- 
 ings with windows on all sides to catch any breeze. 
 Of them the oldest is the Pacific, formerly the 
 British Club, on Alakea Street. The house has 
 broad verandas on both floors and large, cool 
 rooms. The University Club, more especially a 
 resort of younger men, has a pretty cottage near 
 the Hawaiian Hotel. Its membership includes a 
 large number of army and navy officers, gradu- 
 ates of West Point and Annapolis, as well as 
 216 
 
ISLAND LIFE 217 
 
 men from American, English, and German Uni- 
 versities. The City Club, much more inclusive 
 in membership, is in a business block in the centre 
 of the town. There are also, of course, as in all 
 American cities, lodges of various orders. Masons, 
 Odd Fellows, Elks, and Red Men. The new 
 Y. M. C. A. building, on the corner of Hotel and 
 Alakea Streets, has thoroughly comfortable quar- 
 ters, and serves as a club for large numbers of 
 the floating population. 
 
 While men are lunching at their clubs their 
 wives give luncheon parties or go out to luncheons 
 — a form of social entertainment which would seem 
 more suited to a cold climate than to tropical 
 midday. In the late afternoon the Country Club 
 in Nunauu Valley, or the Pacific Tennis Court 
 near the Executive Building, or the various 
 athletic fields and the bathing beaches at Waikiki 
 are the meeting places of society. At night there 
 are dinners, dances, and bridge parties ; occasion- 
 ally, and much more amusing, moonlight surfing 
 and swimming parties. There is no particular 
 social season in Honolulu. More people are out 
 of town in summer, but, on the other hand, that 
 is the time when boys are at home with their 
 friends from American colleges and they must be 
 entertained day and night. This, therefore, is 
 the time to see more of the distinctively Hawaiian 
 forms of amusement. Very popular are the 
 
218 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 " luaus," real Hawaiian feasts with all the dishes 
 cooked in the ancient way. The tables are spread 
 with fern leaves instead of with linen. Forks and 
 knives and spoons should have no place, and are 
 only tolerated occasionally because the younger 
 generation does not know how to use fingers with 
 the dexterity and grace of its eighteenth century 
 great-grandparents. Poi is, of course, the staple 
 of the feast ; poi usually served in individual bowls, 
 however, instead of in one huge calabash into 
 which all dip their fingers — this, a sop to modern 
 ideas of hygiene. /Real training is necessary to 
 eat this paste gracefully, to wind it around the 
 fingers with just the right twist and in just the 
 right amount, and to convey it from bowl to 
 mouth without spilling. There are fish, wrapped 
 in sweet-smelling ti leaves and cooked in under- 
 ground ovens, and sometimes raw fish, to the 
 horror of the uninitiated. There are meats of 
 all kinds, also baked in ti leaves; whole pigs 
 that have been stuffed with hot stones and allowed 
 to steam for hours in their "imus," or under- 
 ground ovens. Rarely, now, are served the little, 
 poi-fed puppies, which, if one can forget what 
 they are, taste like the most delicate of suckling 
 pigs. There are always a thick, gritty, strong- 
 tasting paste made of pounded kukui nuts and 
 used as seasoning; sweet potatoes and yams; 
 baked bananas; breadfruit; a pudding made of 
 
o 
 
 o 
 
 as 
 
ISLAND LIFE 219 
 
 sweet potatoes and cocoanuts, cloyingly sweet but 
 very good; the refreshing milk of young cocoa- 
 nuts to drink. The Hawaiian liquor, made from 
 sugar-cane or from the ti root, is a fiery liquid, 
 almost pure alcohol. Instead of it punch is usu- 
 ally served, or the excellent light beer made in 
 Honolulu, beer which is healthful in a warm cli- 
 mate and might almost be called a national drink. 
 There is no doubt that a taste for most of these 
 delicacies must be the result of childhood experi- 
 ence, or must be carefully cultivated, but once 
 acquired, it is a taste which is always eager to 
 be gratified. The " malahini," or newcomer, who 
 is afraid of unknown dishes can at least stay 
 his hunger with fruit; oranges and bananas, 
 alligator pears that melt in the mouth, guavas, 
 pomegranates, perhaps the exquisitely flavoured 
 custard-apple, and other tropical fruits.^ But 
 whether he goes away empty or full, the luau will 
 have been another memorable experience; its 
 green tables loaded with queer food wrapped in 
 queer brown bundles, polished calabashes of 
 grey-blue or pink poi, the whole dimly lighted 
 with pale golden Chinese lanterns inscribed with 
 letters of- scarlet, or brightly lighted with flaming 
 torches. And through it all his ears will have 
 been charmed with the mournful, poetic notes of 
 Hawaiian songs, stealing out from behind the 
 palm trees — music which ends always with 
 
220 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 " Aloha-oe," that lovely song of farewell, written 
 by the Queen, which is most popular of all, most 
 characteristic of the Hawaiian temper. 
 ( The ancient dances, or " hulas," are not as 
 often seen, both because the art of dancing is 
 being lost and because many of the dances, in 
 the motions which make them up and in the words 
 which accompany them, are, from a civilised 
 point of view, indecent. Some of them are occa- 
 sionally given in an expurgated form at the 
 vaudeville theatres or certain selected dances, as 
 entertainment after private " luaus," and no op- 
 portunity to see them should be neglected. They 
 are often marvellously graceful — more so than 
 are the Arab dances — and with the monotonous 
 beat of their musical accompaniment are very 
 poetical and quite in a class by themselves.* ) 
 
 Of good theatres the Islands are destitute. An 
 occasional series of mediocre performances at the 
 Opera House in Honolulu brings out the whole 
 population. Of interest to tourists who have 
 never been in the Orient, however, there are the 
 Chinese and Japanese theatres with their intermi- 
 nably long plays, often gorgeously costumed and, 
 probably, well acted. Nor is there, naturally, 
 much opportunity to hear good professional musi- 
 cians, although passing artists of note usually 
 
 * An excellent scientific study of the Hula has recently been 
 published by Dr. Emerson of Honolulu. 
 
ISLAND LIFE 221 
 
 give concerts during their short stay in port. 
 There are, of course, the military bands, and the 
 Hawaiian Band gives excellent concerts two or 
 three times a week in the public parks. This 
 band, organised in 1874* as the Royal Hawaiian 
 Band, under Mr. Berger, who is still the leader, 
 is one of the best in existence, and has won many 
 prizes in international competitions. Attached 
 to it are a few Hawaiian singers who usually take 
 part in the concerts. For the tourist, who does 
 not go to the tropics to see the latest French 
 plays or to hear Paderewski play the piano, this 
 theatrical and musical lack will not be annoying, 
 but to residents of the Islands it is a real depriva- 
 tion. 
 
 In Honolulu the Kilohana Art League, with its 
 attractive building on Beretania Street, is the 
 natural art centre. It has good exhibitions of 
 pictures which show the place to be at least not 
 destitute of artists. One of them, D. H. Hitch- 
 cock, who has studied abroad, knows how to paint 
 well, and interprets Island scenery and character- 
 istics in a really masterly way. Some of his vol- 
 cano pictures, always reticent in colour, yet full 
 of the splendour and mystery of the crater, sur- 
 pass iany pictures of the kind which have ever 
 been painted. The Art League has also its liter- 
 ary " circle," and directs endeavours for the 
 beautifying of the city, making suggestions as 
 
222 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 to the planting of avenues of flowering trees and 
 the treatment of sidewalks and public squares. 
 
 For the women of the place housekeeping is 
 none of the easiest. Servants are all Orientals, 
 admirable as far as they go, but with inevitable 
 limitations. The Chinese are faithful, good cooks, 
 and immaculately clean in their work. They are 
 in general preferred to the Japanese, even though 
 during the Chinese New Year, for three days 
 in January or February, they all depart on their 
 annual holiday. During these days no bribe 
 could make them work. They also at that time 
 have the habit of giving to the families for whom 
 they work expensive and usually hideous presents, 
 which must be prominently displayed for months 
 after. An amusing part of the Chinese New 
 Year is the necessity for men of calling on all 
 the Chinese merchants of their acquaintance — 
 ceremonial calls where they are regaled with 
 queer, cloying sweetmeats and champagne. The 
 Japanese are filling the ranks now as house-serv- 
 ants, since under United States immigration laws 
 the Chinese population is gradually dwindling. 
 They are far less reliable, but are often excellent 
 cooks, and Japanese maids in their bright kimo- 
 nos are picturesque about the house. They can 
 be taught almost anything, and once taught never 
 forget, but unfortunately the knowledge acquired 
 is often of the parrot variety. For example, a 
 
ISLAND LIFE 223 
 
 lady gave a luncheon and, before the guests 
 arrived, showed her new Japanese maid exactly 
 how to serve each course and what plates to use. 
 The following week she gave another luncheon, 
 exactly like the first, but omitting one course. 
 Her Japanese maid served it perfectly, except 
 that when the time arrived for the course which 
 was left out she brought in all the plates and 
 then carefully removed them, empty. The ex- 
 treme literalness of both Japanese and Chinese is 
 also often disconcerting. A Chinese cook had 
 recently been converted to Christianity. Just be- 
 fore dinner the lady of the house asked him 
 whether everything had come. He said that the 
 salad had been forgotten, but that, as he had 
 prayed for it, he was sure it would come in time. 
 Such incidents as these make one realise that 
 perfect civility and absolute obedience are not 
 the only requisites of an ideal servant. 
 A.As to outdoor sports there is enough to satisfy 
 the keenest. Aside from the surf-riding, the bath- 
 ing is excellent all along the shores, and at 
 Waikiki, where there is no undertow, where the 
 bottom is of softest sand, where the waves are 
 never large enough to be dangerous, but always 
 to give motion to the water, it is ideal. Two 
 rival boat clubs arrange for rowing and paddling 
 races in Honolulu harbour. Sailboats dot the 
 waters of Pearl Harbour, and the larger yachts 
 
224 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 cruise about outside. At the Country Club there 
 is a good golf course. Everywhere are tennis 
 courts. At all times of the year there are base- 
 ball and football games to watch. Saddle horses 
 can be procured at any of the stables, and most 
 people ride. Perhaps the most popular sport is 
 polo, and at Moanalua can be seen as exciting 
 matches as anywhere on the continent. Alto- 
 gether it is a climate which calls one into the 
 open, and everything has been done to make out- 
 door life attractive. 
 
 As to dress, people get along with just about 
 what they wear in northern countries, except that 
 white linen is much more in evidence. Duck 
 trousers and even white suits are worn by men 
 at all times, and women dress as much as possible 
 in muslins, and linen, or light silk suits. Rain- 
 coats are essential, since at any time a trade wind 
 shower may drift across the mountains — a shower 
 which really wets so little that one's clothes dry 
 in a few minutes in the sunshine, but which seems 
 important while it lasts. 
 
 The tourist whose main object is to buy — and 
 there are many such — will find Honolulu most 
 unsatisfactory if he is hunting for really good 
 things. The American shops are much like those 
 on the mainland and have much the same articles 
 to sell, but in a more limited selection. The Ori- 
 ental shops are interesting, but have, after all, 
 
ISLAND LIFE 225 
 
 not as much of the best as do those in San Fran- 
 cisco. There are, of course, shops which sell 
 Hawaiian curiosities, most of them things which 
 few people except " curio " hunters would care 
 to own. Old calabashes, which are often won- 
 derful in colour and texture, are becoming hard 
 to find, and are, therefore, very expensive. Those 
 which were formerly the property of chiefs have 
 a slight ridge running around the bowl, a ridge 
 not rpally noticeable to sight, but only to the 
 touch. These bowls are not intrinsically better 
 than others, but have perhaps a slight added in- 
 terest. Many of the modern calabashes, less ex- 
 pensive because not laboriously chipped out by 
 hand, but turned by machinery, are beautiful be- 
 cause of the colour of the koa, or, still finer, of 
 the rare kou, from which they are made. It is 
 possible to find koa furniture also, but this is 
 usually unattractive in shape. The best way is 
 to have chairs or tables made of good pieces of 
 the wood and copied from old models. It is still 
 possible to find good pieces of tapa, in different 
 shades of rich brown, the brighter colours usually 
 coming from the islands of the South Pacific. 
 There are strings of tiny white Niihau shells and 
 of the delicious smelling mokihana berries that 
 keep their perfume for years. Old necklaces of 
 golden, stained walrus ivory are very rare and 
 very expensive, as are the beautiful yellow feather 
 
226 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 leis of which the ancient royal cloaks and helmets 
 were made. Imitation leis of dyed feathers are 
 everywhere. There are fans of all kinds, the 
 lightest made of woven bamboo, not distinctively 
 Hawaiian, the best and most durable of cocoanut 
 leaves. There are all sorts of mats, the finest 
 made of the Niihau reed, the best so fine that they 
 can be crushed in the hand as though made of 
 the softest wool. But most of these things are 
 modem — Hawaii has no great ancient art which 
 it lies in the province of the enlightened tourist 
 to discover. There are no pictures, no pieces 
 of wonderful old pottery to be unearthed, as they 
 were a few years ago in the Orient, because such 
 things were not a part of Hawaiian life. 
 
 Hawaii is, as yet, a place with but few literary 
 associations. The early voyagers touch on it. 
 There are several old histories of the Islands, of 
 which that by Jarves, now very rare, is probably 
 the best. Books of travel often devote to them 
 an inaccurate chapter or two. Mark Twain has 
 been amusing about the Islands, as he has about 
 everything else, but his constitutional spirit of 
 banter did not prevent him from being deeply 
 impressed with the Hawaiian charm. Robert 
 Louis Stevenson more than once stayed in Hono- 
 lulu for several months, lay in his hammock under 
 the hao trees of Waikiki, smoked his cigarettes, 
 talked, and wrote a little. His letters tell of the 
 
ai 
 as 
 
ISLAND LIFE 227 
 
 place, and he laid the scene of one rather un- 
 Hawaiian story, the " Bottle Imp," in Hawaii, 
 and it was to a good old " missionary " citizen 
 that his famous letter to Dr. Hyde was addressed. 
 Pity it is for Hawaii that he did not write of it 
 as he did of Samoa. His step-daughter, Mrs. 
 Strong, has written a novel, " The Girl from 
 Home," which gives a good picture of life in 
 Honolulu before the American occupation. Very 
 recently a belated interest is being taken in the 
 poetical legends of the place, and valuable as well 
 as keenly interesting books have been published, 
 "Myths and Legends of Hawaii" being the 
 most complete. The Hawaiian Annual^ published 
 by Thrum, in Honolulu, prints every year an 
 English translation of one or two of these de- 
 lightful old legends. Much scientific work is also 
 being done, most of it under the direct guidance 
 of the Bishop Museum, in the study of ancient 
 Hawaiian life and religion. And it is high time 
 that this work should be accomplished, since the 
 Hawaiian race is rapidly passing and the older 
 generations, who have kept traditions pure, are 
 almost gone. All is important and most, even 
 to the layman, is interesting. 
 
 There has been no poet of Hawaii. No ancient 
 bard stands out preeminent, and indeed, most of 
 the " meles " have grown up through natural 
 accretion through the centuries and are rightly 
 
228 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 anonymous. These songs, too, should all be 
 translated, although no translation could perpet- 
 uate the peculiar rhythm of the originals. They 
 are full of repetitions, many of them epic in 
 interest if not in form, yet with all their crudities 
 they contain strains of real poetry, images that 
 linger in memory because of their vivid simplicity, 
 that recall the early poetical speech of older 
 lands. And to-day there is much to touch the 
 imagination of a poet, should one arise. Many 
 of the printed legends are poetry in all but form. 
 Nature in its most sensuously beautiful aspects 
 seeks poetical interpretation. There is material 
 for many a solemn poem in the slow tragedy of 
 the dying, lovable, Hawaiian people; for many a 
 gay lyric in the swish of the waves under the 
 prow of the swift canoes ; of expression in words 
 of the sad, passionate music that sobs on moon- 
 light nights to the accompaniment of the waves 
 at Waikiki. But the po€t of Hawaii is still to 
 come. 
 
 Because of this lack of literature there is no 
 way to get any permanent impression of the 
 charm of Hawaii except by a visit. Its history 
 one can read and can appreciate if one is able 
 to adopt, in the reading, a sympathetic point of 
 view. The fact that thoroughly American ideals 
 pervade all phases of Island industry, of modes 
 of living, and of social intercourse may be ac- 
 
ISLAND LIFE 229 
 
 cepted and theoretically believed. But the 
 Hawaiian flavour, with which these ideals are 
 subtly impregnated and that insensibly affects 
 all who have lived there, is something indescriba- 
 ble, something which seems to emanate from the 
 misty hills, the whispering waters, the exquisite 
 vegetation, the low voices of the people. All this 
 may be grasped only through the senses. The 
 eyes must see from the shores at Waikiki the 
 bright carpet of water beyond which Diamond 
 Head so proudly stands at the gateway of the 
 world beyond. The ears must catch the melody 
 of Hawaiian song and the swish of the wind in 
 the palms. The scent of stephanotis and plu- 
 maria and ginger must strike one as it steals 
 through the hibiscus hedges around secluded gar- 
 dens. The whole body must respond to the ten- 
 der caress of trade winds that have blown across 
 a thousand miles of warm ocean. Only this is 
 full knowledge — and the sense of this no words 
 can convey. 
 
 And after happy weeks there comes the parting 
 — ^the good-byes on the ship's deck, for no tourist 
 stays long in Honolulu without making friends. 
 Even this is different from other partings. On 
 the dock is the band, playing well-known tunes 
 and, last of all, " Aloha-oe " — the last " aloha," 
 the most familiar of Hawaiian words, which means 
 " greeting " and " good-bye " and " love " and 
 
230 HAWAII PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 " best wishes for all happiness," according to its 
 intonation. On the deck the departing passengers 
 are covered with leis, with wreaths of flowers, 
 one or two from every friend — red carnations, yel- 
 low ginger, green, sweet-smelling " maile " from 
 the mountains. And as the ship pulls slowly away 
 these leis, some of them, are thrown back to 
 those who are left behind, thrown so fast that the 
 widening space of water is almost hidden under 
 fiery streams of flowers. The crowd grows in- 
 distinct, is only a coloured line against the black 
 background of warehouses. As the ship gains 
 headway the hills rise once more behind the little 
 city. Once more there is the beautiful panorama 
 of gleaming, multi-coloured water and of bright 
 mountains with the narrow green plain between. 
 Diamond Head draws back, and as the ship takes 
 the waves of the open Pacific one knows that 
 Hawaii, with all its loveliness, its stupendous 
 mountains, its thrilling volcanoes, is only a happy 
 memory — a place to love, and a place to be proud 
 of since America has made it a land of prosperity, 
 and happiness, and liberty. 
 
COPYRIGHT, 1Q03, BY DODD, MEAD & COl 
 
APPENDIX 
 I 
 
 HOTHLS 
 
 Oahu 
 Honolulu : 
 
 Alexander Young Hotel. Bishop Street. 
 
 (E. P.) From $1.50 per day. 
 Royal Hawaiian Hotel. Hotel Street. (E. P.) 
 
 From $1.00 per day. 
 Pleasanton Hotel. Wilder Avenue. (A. P.) 
 
 $2.50-$5.00 per day. 
 Moana Hotel. Waikiki. (A. P.) From $5.00 
 
 per day. 
 Seaside Hotel. Waikiki. (A. P.) From $2.50 
 
 per day. 
 In Honolulu there are many boarding houses 
 suitable for a long stay. 
 
 In order to get the trade winds, rooms facing 
 the mountains should be secured in all hotels. 
 
 Waialua: Haleiwa Hotel. (A. P.) $3.50-$4.00 
 per day. 
 
 Hauula: Hauula Hotel (on line of Koolau Rail- 
 way). (A. P.) $1.75 per day. 
 231 
 
232 APPENDIX 
 
 Kavm 
 
 Lihue: Falrview Hotel. (A. P.) $3.00 per day. 
 Hanalei: Deverill's Hotel. (A. P.) $3.00 per 
 
 day. 
 Waimea: Bay View Hotel. (A. P.) $2.50 per 
 
 day. 
 
 Mam 
 
 Wailuku: Maui Hotel. (A. P.) $3.00 per day. 
 Iao Valley: Kapaniwai Hotel (annex to Maui 
 
 Hotel). (A. P.) $3.00 per day. 
 Lahaina: Pioneer Hotel. (A. P.) $2.50 per 
 
 day. 
 
 Hawaii 
 
 HiLo: Hilo Hotel. (A. P.) $5.00 per day. 
 Kilauea: Volcano House. (A. P.) From $5.00 
 
 per day. 
 
 Comfortable rooms with board at reasonable 
 rates^also at Waiohinu, Kailua, Waimea, Kohala, 
 and Laupahoehoe. 
 
Triage 
 
 Automobile 
 
 $ .25 
 
 $ 1.00 
 
 .60 
 
 1.00 
 
 APPENDIX 233 
 
 n 
 
 Automobile and Careiage Rates 
 
 Oahu 
 
 Honolulu : 
 
 Not over one mile . 
 Not over two miles . 
 Pali and return, one to 
 
 four passengers . . 5.00 7.00 
 
 Around northwest end of 
 Island (all day), one 
 to four passengers . 50.00 
 
 each additional . . 5.00 
 
 Other excursions also by fixed rate: 
 
 Saddle horse, one-half day . . $ 2.50 
 Saddle horse, per week . . 10.50 
 A mail stage leaves the Honolulu Post Office 
 daily at 9 a.m., running to Waikane on the wind- 
 ward side of the Island, twenty-one miles, and 
 returning the same evening. Price, $1.00 each 
 way. 
 
 Other Islands 
 
 There are fixed prices for all trips, whether 
 by motor, private carriage, or stage. Full in- 
 formation may be obtained at the offices of the 
 
234 APPENDIX 
 
 Hawaii Promotion Committee, Young Building, 
 Honolulu. 
 
 Ill 
 
 A Note on the Hawaiian Language 
 
 The Hawaiian alphabet contains only twelve 
 letters, five vowels and seven consonants: a, e, i, 
 o, u, h, k, 1, m, n, p, and w. No distinction is 
 made between the sounds k and t, the latter being 
 preferred in poetry, nor between 1 and r, which 
 occurs only in dialect variations. W is often 
 pronounced like v when occurring between vowels. 
 
 The vowels are sounded as in Italian, that is, 
 a as in father, e as in th^y, i as in machine, o as 
 in note, u as oo in moon. Each vowel is dis- 
 tinctly pronounced except in the case of the 
 diphthongs, ai as in the English ejaculation ay! 
 and au as in the English word loud. Thus 
 Kaaawa, a valley on the windward side of Oahu, 
 is Ka-a-a-va. 
 
 The accent is almost always on the penult, as 
 in Ha-wai-i. 
 
 There are very few words in the language, 
 every one being forced to assume different mean- 
 ings as occasion requires. As the language is 
 highly inflected, however, it is difficult to speak 
 accurately, and with the general introduction of 
 
APPENDIX 
 
 235 
 
 English even the natives are becoming slovenly in 
 its use. 
 
 Certain Hawaiian words have come into com- 
 mon usage and will be met by all tourists. These 
 words are as follows: 
 
 Akamai, clever. 
 
 Lanai, piazza. 
 
 Aloha, greeting, love. 
 
 Lei, wreath. 
 
 Aloha oe, farewell. 
 
 Mahope, by and by. 
 
 Haole, foreigner. 
 
 Makai, toward the sea. 
 
 HeiaUy native temple. 
 
 Mauka, toward the 
 
 Hikie, large couch. 
 
 mountains. 
 
 Hula, native dance. 
 
 Malahine, stranger. 
 
 Huhu, angry. 
 
 Mele, Hawaiian song. 
 
 Kvlikuli, keep still. 
 
 Maikai, good. 
 
 Kahuna, native priest 
 
 Pali, cliff. 
 
 or " medicine man." 
 
 Pau, finished. 
 
 Kamaaina, old-time res- 
 
 Pilikia, trouble of any 
 
 ident. 
 
 kind. 
 
 Kamaka, man (often 
 
 Poi, native taro food. 
 
 used to mean the na- 
 
 Wikiwiki, hurry up. 
 
 tive Hawaiian). 
 
 Wahine, woman. 
 
 IV 
 
 General 
 
 Banks: — Among the principal banks in Hono- 
 lulu are the First National, Bank of Hawaii, and 
 
^36 APPENDIX 
 
 Bishop & Co. There are reliable banks in all the 
 larger towns. 
 
 Cable Messages : — The rates per word between 
 Honolulu and San Francisco are 35 cents, Manila 
 85 cents, Japan 96 cents, China $1.01. The 
 through rate to Europe is 84 cents per word. 
 For Eastern cities the usual overland telegraph 
 rates must be added to the cable to San Fran- 
 cisco. For example, 12 cents a word to New 
 York. 
 
 There is wireless service between the different 
 islands and with passing ships. 
 
 Customs: — The same regulations as in any 
 United States port. Passengers leaving Honolulu 
 by any except the local steamers must have their 
 hold luggage sealed by customs officials at the 
 dock to avoid examination in San Francisco. 
 
 Post Office: — Corner Merchant and Bethel 
 Streets, Honolulu. The hours correspond to those 
 of post offices on the mainland. Postage is the 
 same as to any other part of the United States. 
 
 Physicians: — There are competent doctors and 
 nurses in all the more important towns, and hos- 
 pital facilities are good. 
 
 Shops in Honolulu: — Photographs: Honolulu 
 Photo Supply Company; Gurray's ; R. H. Per- 
 kins. — Books and Stationery: Crossroad's Book 
 Store; Thrum's; Arleigh's. — Curios: Hawaiian 
 
APPENDIX ^37 
 
 and South Sea Island Curio Company; Island 
 Curio Company. — Japanese and Chinese Goods: 
 Japanese Bazaar; Sayagusa Shoten; Wing Wo 
 Tai Company. 
 
 Water : — It is safe to drink the water in Hono- 
 lulu, and indeed it is nowhere dangerous except for 
 those who find change of water harmful. 
 
INDEX OF PLACES 
 
 Ahuiraanu, 122 
 
 Akaka Falls, 188 
 
 Aleutian Islands, 1 
 
 Anahola, 137 
 
 Aquarium, Waikiki, 103-104 
 
 Auckland, 1 
 
 Barber's Point, 113, 115 
 Barking Sands, 132 
 Beretania St., Honolulu, 92 
 Bishop Homestead, 98 
 Bishop Museum, 102 
 
 Central Union Church, Hon- 
 olulu, 97 
 
 City Club, 216 
 
 Cocoanut Island, 167 
 
 Cooke Homestead, Hono- 
 lulu, 96 
 
 Country Club, 217, 224 
 
 Court House, Honolulu, 95 
 
 Diamond Head, 61, 87, 113, 
 128 
 
 Eke Crater, 152 
 
 Emma Square, 104 
 
 Ewa Plantation, 71, 115, 116 
 
 Fort Armstrong, 61 
 
 Fort de Russy, 61 
 
 Fort Kamehameha, 60 
 
 Fort Ruger, 61 
 
 Fort Shafter, 61 
 
 Fort Street, Honolulu, 92 
 
 Green Lake, 171 
 
 Haena Point, 140 
 Haiku, 148, 160 
 
 Haleiwa Hotel, 117, 119 
 Halemaumau, 196 
 Hamakua, 186 
 Hana, 159, 161 
 Hanakapiai, 141 
 Hanalei, 132, 137 
 Hanapepe Falls, 135 
 Hanapepe River, 139 
 Hanapepe Valley, 134 
 Haupu Ridge, 136 
 Hawaii, 2, 21, 34, 36, 164 
 
 et seq. 
 Hawaiian Annual, 227 
 Hawaiian Commercial Sugar 
 
 Co.'s Plantation, 150 
 Hilo, 4, 57, 80, 166, 189 
 Hilo Boarding School, 168 
 Hoary Head Ridge, 136 
 Honaunau, 178 
 Honokaa, 185, 189 
 Honokaa Landing, 182 
 Honokahau Valley, 152 
 Honolulu, 1, 4, 38, 45, 57, 58, 
 
 64, 80-84 
 Honolulu Harbour, 89 
 Honolulu Iron Works, 79 
 Honolulu Plantation, 71, 115 
 Honomu, 188 
 Honuapo, 175 
 Hotel St., Honolulu, 92 
 Hualalai, 181 
 
 lao Valley, 151, 162 
 Idlewilde, 154 
 
 Kaawaloa, 179 
 Kaenae Valley, 160 
 Kahoolawe Island, 2, 16S 
 Kahuku, 115, 119 
 
240 
 
 INDEX OF PLACES 
 
 Kahului, 57, 153, 161 
 Kailua, 180, 188 
 Kaimuki, 114, 128 
 Kalaeha, 191 
 Kalalau Valley, 141 
 Kaliuaa Canon, 119 
 Kamakaopuhi, 210 
 Kamehameha School, 99 
 Kaneohe Bay, 121 
 Kapiolani Park, 104 
 Kapoho, 170 
 Kau, 175 
 Kau Desert, 174 
 Kauai, 2, 31, 57, 131 et seq. 
 Kauai Electric Station, 139 
 Kauiki Head, 161 
 Kaumana Cave, 168 
 Kaunakakai, 145 
 Kaupo Gap, 161 
 Kawaiahao Church, 95 
 Kawaiahao Seminary, 99 
 Kawaihae, 165, 182 
 Kealakekua, 189 
 Kealakekua Bay, 32, 188 
 Keanakahoe, 205 
 Keanakola, 191 
 Keauhou, 180 
 Kekuaokalani, 179 
 Kiholo, 182 
 Kilauea, 34, 137, 169, 193 
 
 et seq. 
 Kilauea Plantation, 135 
 Kilaueaiki, 204 
 Kilohana Art League, 221 
 Kilohana Crater, 136 
 King St., Honolulu, 92 
 Kipapa, 119 
 
 Kohala, 95, 165, 183, 189 
 Kohala Range, 164, 184 
 Koko Head, 86, 124 
 Koloa, 135 
 Kona, 176 
 Koolau, 128 
 
 Koolau Mountains, 86, 88 
 Kualoa Point, 121 
 Kula, 161 
 
 Lahaina, 148, 162 
 
 Lahainaluna Seminary, 149 
 
 Laie, 119 
 
 Lanai, 2, 124, 163 
 
 Laupahoehoe, 187, 189 
 
 Lawai, 135 
 
 Leahi, 87 
 
 Leper Settlement, 146 
 
 Lihue, 134, 136 
 
 Little Kilauea, 204 
 
 Lumahai Valley, 138 
 
 Lunalilo, 24 
 
 Lunalilo House, 101 
 
 McBride Plantation, 135 
 
 Mahukona, 165 
 
 Makapuu Point, 85, 125 
 
 Makawao, 154, 161 
 
 Makawele Plantation, 134 
 
 Makena, 161 
 
 Mana, 191 
 
 Manila, 1 
 
 Manoa Valley, 93, 99, 109, 
 
 128 
 Maui, 2, 34, 57, 147 et 
 
 seq. 
 Mauna Kea, 164, 165, 190 
 Mauna Loa, 164, 174, 189 
 Mid-Pacific Institute, 99 
 Mills Institute, 100 
 Moanalua, 114, 224 
 Mokapu Point, 121 
 Mokuaweoweo, 212 
 Mokuaweoweo Crater, 190 
 Molokai, 2, 14, 46, 65, 85, 
 
 124, 144 et seq. 
 Mt. Haleakala, 147, 155- 
 
 158 
 Mt. Hualalai, 164, 181 
 Mt. Kaala, 86 
 Mt. Konahuanui, 110, 128 
 Mt. Olympus, 110 
 Mt. Puu Kukui, 152 
 Mt. Tantalus, 113, 126 
 Mt. Waialeale, 131 
 
INDEX OF PLACES 
 
 241 
 
 Nahiku, 160 
 Napali, 140-142 
 Napoopoo, 179, 190 
 Nawiliwili Gulch, 136 
 Niihau, 2, 31, 143 
 Niu, 124 
 
 Nuuanu Ave., Honolulu, 92 
 Nuuanu Pali, 126, 128 
 Nuuanu Valley, 34, 92, 109, 
 123, 127 
 
 Oahu, 2, 31, 34, 36, 61, 62, 
 
 85, 109 et seq. 
 Oahu College, 100 
 Oahu Plantation, 115 
 Okolele Canon, 134 
 Okolele Ditch, 134 
 Okolele River, 139 
 Ookala, 186 
 Olaa Plantation, 170 
 Oluwalu Plantation, 150 
 Onomea, 188 
 Onomea Arch, 168 
 
 Pacific Club, 216 
 
 Pacific Heights, 126 
 
 Pacific Tennis Court, 217 
 
 Pahala, 189 
 
 Pahala Plantation, 175 
 
 Paia, 153, 159 
 
 Pali, 127 
 
 Pali Precipice, 111 
 
 Palolo Valley, 128 
 
 Papaiko, 191 
 
 Parkers' Ranch, 190 
 
 Pauoa Valley, 126 
 
 Pearl Harbour, 47,58, 113,116 
 
 Pelekunu Valley, 145 
 
 Philippine Islands, 1 
 
 Polihale, 133 
 
 Puelo, 160 
 
 Puna, 189 
 
 Punahou, 100 
 
 Punch Bowl, 91, 113 
 
 Puu Huluhulu, 209 
 
 Puukapele, 133 
 
 Queen's Hospital, 101 
 
 Rainbow Fall, 167 
 
 Roman Catholic Cathedral, 
 
 Honolulu, 97 
 Royal Hawaiian Band, 221 
 Royal Hawaiian Hotel, 93 
 Royal Palace, Honolulu, 93 
 
 St. Andrew's Cathedral, 97 
 
 San Franc 
 
 Savaii, 18 
 
 Schofield Barracks, 61 
 
 Six Craters, 209 
 
 Spouting Horn, 135 
 
 Sydney, 1 
 
 Tantalus Road, 126 
 The Twins, 209 
 Thomas Square, 45, 104 
 Two Orphans, 209 
 
 Ulu Falls, 184 
 University Club, 216 
 
 Vancouver, B. C, 82 
 
 Victoria, B. C, 1 
 
 Volcano House, 173, 189, 194 
 
 Wahaula, 171 
 
 Waiakea River, 170 
 
 Waialae, 114, 124 
 
 Waialae Bay, 86 
 
 Waialua, 115 
 
 Waianae, 115 
 
 Waianae Mountains, 86, 87, 
 
 113, 129 
 Waianae Plantation, 117 
 Waihee Valley, 152 
 WaikiKi, 23, 61, 87, 92, 114, 
 
 226 
 Waikoko River, 138 
 Wailua Valley, 137, 145 
 Wailuku, 150, 151, 153, 162 
 Waimanalo Pali, 124, 126 
 Waimanu Valley, 184 
 
242 
 
 INDEX OF PLACES 
 
 Waimea, 117, 132, 182, 188, 
 
 189 
 Waimea Bay, 31 
 Waimea Gulch, 133 
 Wainiha Valley, 138, 140 
 Waiohinu, 176, 188 
 
 Waipio, 184 
 
 Waipio Valley, 166, 184 
 
 Washington Place, 108 
 
 Yokohama, 1 
 
 Young Hotel, Honolulu, 
 
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