u N4 TRAVELS FROM ST. PETERSBURGH I N RUSSIA,, T O VARIOUS PARTS O F ASIA. ILLUSTRATED WITH MAPS* IN TWO VOLUMES. BY JOHN BELL, OF ANTERMONY. VOLUME FIRST. EDINBURGH: PRINTED FOR WILLIAM CREECH, AND SOLD BY GEO. ROBINSONS AND CO. LONDON. MDCCLXXXVIII, I s T T H E GOVERNOUR, COURT OF ASSISTANTS, AND FREEMEN, OF THE RUSSIA COMPANY, AND TO THE BRITISH FACTORIES IN RUSSIA, THE FOLLOWING RELATION OF TRAVELS, &c. Are refpe&fully infcribed, As a teftimony of gratitude, For the favours received, From many of them, By their mod obedient, And very humble fervant, ANTERMONY, ~) t. i. 1762. THE AUTHOR. 894034 THE PREFACE. I N my youth I had a ftrong defire of feeing foreign parts ; to fatisfy which inclination, after having obtained, from fome perfons of worth, recommen- datory letters to Dr Arefkine, chief phyfi- cian and privy-counfellor to the Czar Peter the Firft, I embarked at London, in the month of July 1714, on board the Profpe- rity of Ramfgate, Captain Emerfon, for St Peterfburgh. On my arrival there, I was received by Dr Arefkine in a very friend- ly manner ; to whom I communicated my intentions vi PREFACE. intentions of feeking an opportunity of vi- fiting fome parts of Afia, at leaft thofe parts which border on Ruffia. Such an opportunity foon prefented itfelf, on occa- fion of an embafTy, then preparing, from his Czarifh Majefty to the Sophy of Per- fia. Artemy Petrovich Valenfky, a gentle- man of a family of diftinction, and a Cap- tain of the guards, was appointed ambafla- dor by his Majefty. Upon his nomination, he applied to Dr Arefkine to recommend a perfon who had fome knowledge in phyfic and furgery, . to go in his fuite in the em- bafly. As I had employed fome part of my time in thofe ftudies, the Dodor re- commended me ; which he did in fo cor- dial a manner, as produced to me, from the ambaflador many marks of friendship and regard, which fubfifted not only during the journey, but alfo continued, from that time, to the end of his days. The Doclor, at the fame time, recommended me to the college of foreign affairs at St Peterfburgh, by PREFACE. . 69 CHAP. V. Occurrences during ourjlay at Tauris ; our journey thence to Iff ah an p. 87 CHAP. VL Occurrences during our Jlay at Ifpahan t>- "3 CHAP. VII. \ From Ifpahan to Shamachy ; occurrences du- ring pur Jlay there p. 1 5 i CHAP. VIII. CONTENTS. *iiJ A Journey from St Peterfburgh in Ruffia, to Pekin in China p. 183 CHAP. I. From St Peter/burgh to Tobolfky, the Ca- pital of Siberia p. 185 CHAP. II. Occurrences at T'obolfky obfervations on the Kalmucks^ <&c. and journey continued to Tomfky />. 220 CHAP. III. Occurrences at Tom/ky ; obfervations on the Tzulim Tartars^ &c. and journey conti- nued to Elimjky p. 252 CHAP. IV. Observations on lakutjky and Kamtzatjky, <&c. ; journey continued to Irkutjky ; and occurrences there p. 233 G H A P. *iv CONTENTS* CHAP. V. I From Irkutjky, crofs the Lake Bdykall, to Selinginfky ; fome account of the Kutuch- CHAP. VI. Occurrences at Selinginfky ; feveral parties of hunting ; and journey continued to Sa- ratzyn^the boundary betiveen the Ruffian and Chinefe territories p. 34$ CHAP. VII. from paffing the Saratzyn, and entering tht Chinefe territories^ to our arrival at the wall of China /> 380 CHAP. VIII. from the 'wall of China to Pekin ; our entry into that city />. 416 JOURNEY FROM ST. PETERSBURG!! IN RUSSIA, T O ISPAHAN IN PERSIA. PETER THE FIRS 1 ?, TO THE SHACH HUSSEIN 5 IN THE YEAR MDCCXV. Names of the principal perfons *who compo- fed the train of the Ambaffador Artemii Petrovich Valenfky, viz. Secretary, Gregory Chriftopher Venigerkind, Captain Engineer, Jaques de Villette. Gentlemen of the Embaffy, Matphe Parfilich Kartzoff, Adrian Ivanovich Lopuchin, The Author of this Journal. Prieft, Hylarion, a Monk. Interpreters, Vaffile KurdefFsky, Alexie Tulkatzoff, Pemetry Petritz. Clerks or Writers, Vaffile Shadayoff, Alexie Buchtaryoff. With many others, viz. a band of mufic, confifting of trumpets, ket.tle-drums, violins, hautboys, &c. car- penters, fmiths, taylors, valets, and footmen ; amount- ing in all to above one hundred performs ; befides a troop of twenty-five dragoons for our efcort, from Iftra- chan to Ifpahari. FROM ST PETERSBURGH T O ISPAHAN. CHAP. I. From Sf Peterfburgh to Cafan. ON the fifteenth of July 1715, I fet out from St Peterfburgh, in com- pany with Meflieurs Venigerkind, De Vil- lette, and Kurdeffsky. That city, which has fince grown fo confiderable, was then in its infancy, having been founded, ten or eleven years before, by that truly great VOL, I. man ft AJOURNEY man Peter the firft, to whom no under- taking feemed difficult. , St Peterfburgh is fituated in fixty degrees north latitude, partly on the continent of Ingria and Carelia, and partly on different iflands formed by the river Neva, which difcharges itfelf, by four channels, into the Gulf of Finland, a little below the city. It is defended by a ftrong caftle, built with ftone and brick, inacceffible to {hips of force, there being but eight feet water on the bar. As the Czar had determined to form a city all at once, and not to truft to time for the growth of a place which he had chofen for the feat of government, he aflembled inhabitants from every province of his empire, and allured ftrangers from moft parts of Europe ; fo that the place was even well peopled, and had not the appearance of a city fo lately founded. The adjacent country is generally cover- ed with woods, confiding of various kinds of pines, birch, alder, afpine, and other trees natural to the northern climates. To TO ISPAHAN. J To the fouthward, efpecially along the fliore towards Peterhoff, the country in iummer is very pleafant, with country- feats, corn- fields, and meadows interfper- fed. The river Neva falls out of the Ladoga Lake at Sluflelburgh, a ftrong caftle, about fixty verft above St Peterfburgh. It is a noble flream of clear, wholefome water, with this peculiar quality, that it is feldom muddy. It contains a great variety of ex- cellent fifh, which fupply the market all the year, .and is navigable to the Ladoga by flat- bottomed veflels. The woods on each fide are ftored with game ; fuch as hares, which are white as fnow in winter, and turn brown in fum- mer ; wild-deer, bears, and wolves ; the laft are fo bold that I have know them, in the night-time, carry off a dog from a man's foot, in eroding the river on the ice. There are alfo elks about the Lake of La- doga. As for wild- fowl, few places can boaft of greater variety. The chief are thefe ; 4 A JOURNEY thefe ; the urhaan, called in French cog li- moge ; this bird is black, with beautiful red ftreaks about its head and eyes. The cock is about the fize of a turkey ; the hen is lefs, and of a brown colour. The heath- cock, in French coq de bruiere, of the fame colour and marks as the former, but not fo large. The partridge, which the French call gilinot. Thefe three kinds perch on trees ; and in winter feed on fir-tops, and on crane-berries, which they fcrape from under the fnow. There is alfo found here the common Englifh partridge ; it is how- ever but rare. The tarmachan, a bird well known in the northern parts of Eng- land, and in Scotland, are here in plenty. As foon as the ice goes off in the fpring, vaft flocks of water- fowl come hither from the Cafpian Sea, and other fouthern re- gions? to hatch. Thefe confift of fwans, geefe, a variety of wild ducks, teal, &c. Snipes and wood-cocks breed here, many of which are catched by the Ruffians, who are excellent fiihers and fportfmen. From T O I S P A H A N. 5 From St Petersburg we directed our courfe along the weflern bank of the Neva, till we came to the brick-works. The weather being very hot, we halted here a few hours, and in the evening purfued eur journey to a fmall river which falls into the Neva, about thirty verft above St Pe- terfburgh. At this place we let our horfes go to grafs, and lay in our waggons till the morning ; but were much molefted by the gnats and mufkitos. Next morning we continued our jour- ney, and patted a village ^called Ifhora, where the inhabitants fpeak a language, and wear a drefs different from the Ruffian, though they profefs the fame Greek reli- gion. It is probable they are the defcen- dants of a colony formerly brought hither from iome of the provinces of Livonia. Next day we came to the Volchova, a great river ifluing from a lake called Ilmen, not far diftant from the city of Novogorod, which difcharges itfelf into the Ladoga. Here we left our horfes, and, putting our waggons 9 AJOURNEY waggons and carnages on board barques, went up the river, ufing oars or fails, by turns, as neceffity obliged us. The banks of the Volchova are covered with many villages, and fruitful corn-fields, intermix- ed with natural woods. We found as we went along plenty of fifli and country pro- vifions. The iQth, -we arrived at Novogorod Velikoi, or the Great Novogorod, fo called to diftinguifti it from many lefler towns of the fame name. This city ftands about two hundred verft fouth-eaft from Peterf- burgh. The Volchova % runs through the middle of it, over which there is a wooden bridge defended by a fortrefs. There are many well built churches in the town, and a great number of monafteries in the neigh- bourhood, pleafantly fituated, which form a very agreeable profpect. It was former- ly a place of great note, but is now much decayed. Here is an archbifhop who en- joys a very confiderable revenue. July TO ISPAHAN. > July 22cl, having put our carnages on board another barque, we failed up % the river to the Lake Ilmen ; and, leaving it on our right hand, entered .a fmall river called Mfta, and at night came to Brunitz, a large village, thirty verft from Novogo- rod. Here we difcharged our boats ; and, having procured horfes, we proceeded next morning thirty verft to the village of Zaytzoff, from thence to Krafnyftanky, and then to Kreftitfky, where we changed horfes, with which we travelled to Yafhil- bitza. Here begin the Valday-hills, which run to. a great diftance from eaft to weft, but are only about twenty or thirty verft broad. They are moftly covered with wood. We came next to the town of Val- day ; this place is pleafantly fnuated at the foot of the hills, adjoining to a large lake of the fame name, in the middle of which is an ifland, whereon Hands a monaftery. The country in the neighbourhood is hilly, but not mountainous, exhibiting a beautiful variety of plain and rifing grounds. The S A JOURNEY The next ftage is Zimogory, and after that Vifhnoy-volotzoke. Here is a canal of confiderable extent, cut by Peter the Firft, which opens a communicatidn by water from St Peterfburgh to all the places on the Volga, and many other parts of Ruffia, and proves a great encouragement to trade, and very advantageous to the merchant, in fuch extenfive tracts of land. Next day we came to Torfhoak, a fmall town. The SQth, we arrived at Tweer, a popu- lous and trading town, defended by a caftle ; it is the capital of a province, and a bifhop's feat. It derives its name from a rivulet in the neighbourhood, called Tweertza, and ftands on the banks of the famous river Volga. The Volga, known formerly by the name of Rha, has its fource not far to the weftward of Tweer. At a fmall diflance from the fource of the Volga, two other noble rivers take their rife ; the Dnieper, or Boryfthenes, which run into the Black Sea TO ISPAHAN. 9 Sea at Otzakof, and the Duina, which falls into the Baltic at Riga. The Volga, after vifiting in its courfe to the fouth-eaft many fruitful countries, dif- charges itfelf into the Cafpian Sea, about fixty verft below Aftrachan ; and, in all this long courfe, there is not a fingle cata- ract to interrupt the navigation. As to fifh, no river in the world can afford great- er variety, better of their kind, nor in larger quantities. Here we tafted the fterlett, a fifh much and generally efteemed ; it is of the ftur- geon kind, but feldom grows above thirty inches long. It is found in other rivers of Ruffia ; but the Volga produces the bed and in greateft plenty. The caviare, or fpawn, is very good to eat raw, after being cleaned and drefled. 1 never could find a fifherman who had feen their fry. The fame day, having changed horfes, we proceeded on our journey to Gorodna, a large village, on the weft bank of the Volga. From this place is feen a charm- VQL. L B ing io A JOURNEY ing landfkip, containing a full view of the windings of that river. From hence, after pafling many villages, we came to Kleen, a pretty large town, and the laft ftage to Mofco. The country between Kleen and Mofco is pleafant, ha- ving many tufts of *wood, of unequal big- nefs, fcattered among the corn-fields, that contribute to beautify the country, which had no great appearance of fertility. About feven verft from Mofco we paf- fed through a large village, called Ffe- fwatzky, inhabited by Chriftians of the Eaftern church, named Georgians ; their ancient country was Gurgiflan, now one of the northerly provinces of Perfia ; they were driven ftom their native country by the perfecution of the Perfians ; andj fly- ing into Ruffia, they there found an hoipi- table reception, many of them being em- ployed in the fer vice of the Emperor. From this place there is a view of the city of Mofcow, and, at this diftance, few cities in the world make a finer appear- ance; TO ISPAHAN. ii ance ; v for it ftands on a riling ground, and contains many (lately churches and rao- nafteries, whofe fteeples and cupolas are generally covered either with copper gilt, or tin plates, which fhine like gold and fil- ver in the fun. Auguft 2d we arrived at the city of Mof-. co. I have omitted the names and diftances of many inconfiderable places through which we pafled ; let it fuffice, that the di- ftance between St Peterfburgh and Mofco is about feven hundred and thirty verft ; and, although the hot weather detained us long on the road, in winter the journey is eafily performed with fledges in three days. On the loth of Auguft, my friends, Meffieurs Lange and Girvan, arrived here in, their way to China, on a meiTage from the Czar to the Emperor of China : The firfl was a Swede, and the other a phyfici- an, from the county of Air in Scotland. We flayed in Mofco about three weeks, having many things to prepare for fo long a journey. This city, ftanding on an emi- nence, 12 nence, as was already obferved, commands an extenfive profpeft of a fine plain coun- try, adorned with woods and clumps of trees, mcnafteries, and gentlemen's feats: The river Mofco runs almoft through it, which, emptying itfelf into the Volga, preferves a communication with all the fouthern parts of Ruffia, and even with Periia. From thefe advantages in fituation, this place is very convenient for trade, which flourilhes here to a confiderable de- gree. The city v is fortified with a ftrpng brick- \vall, called Beligorod, having embrafures and a ditch. Within this is another wall, called Kitaygorod : This laft inclofes what is called the Crimlin, in which is the old imperial palace, compounded of a number of buildings, added to one another at dif- ferent times. Some of the apartments are very fpacious, particularly that called Gra- navitapaData, where audience was given to foreign ambafladors: Adjoining to the pa- lace are many edifices, where were held the TO ISPAHAN. 13 the courts of juftice: Here allb ftands a lofty tower, wherein is hung the largefl bell in the world, called Ivan Veleke, weigh- ing about ten thoufand poods ; which, reckonipg each pood at near thirty-fix pounds Englilh, will amount to about ari hundred and iixty ton weight. Befides thefe, there is a cathedral church, and an arfenal, well furnifhed with brafs cannon, mortars, and other warlike ftores. Be- yond the brick-walls, already mentioned, there is an earthen one, of great circum- ference, round the whole ; abd, without this, the fuburbs alfo are very extenfive. The great plenty of provifions in this place furprifed me not a little ; I found here fruits of different kinds, which I did not expect, particularly excellent melons, and arboozes, or water-melons. Auguft the 2 i ft, we fhippcd our baggage on board fix fmall barques, adapted by their conftrudion, either for fails or oars, as fhould be moft convenient, and fell down the river. The ambaflador only remained at I 4 A JOURNEY at Mofco, waiting for fome difpatches from court. In 'the evening we patted Kolu- minfka, a village pleafantly fituated on the fouth fide of the Mofco river, near which is a large country- houfe, with gardens and orchards, belonging to the court. October ^d, we came to Kolumna, a fortified town. Next day, the wind being favourable, we hoifted fail, and, after going about three verft, entered the river Oka, into which .the Mofco falls and lofes its name. The Oka rifes in the Ukrain, and runs to the fouth-eaft ; it contains a great quantity of water, and is navigable very far up the country. The gth, we arrived at Pereflave-refanfky, a large town to the left, fituated about a verft from the river Oka ; it is the feat of an archbifhop, and the country around is very fruitful in corn. The 1 6th, we came to Kaffimova, for- merly the refidence of a Tartar Prince; but the familv is now converted to Chrif- M and retains only the old name of Kaffi- TO ISPAHAN". 15- Kaflimoffky Czarevitz. The place is at prefent inconfiderable. There are (till here a few Mahometan Tartars, who are allow- ed the free exercife of their religion, and have a fmall oratory. I accompanied our interpreter to vifit one of them, an old, ac- quaintance of his: He was a very decent man ; we faw a horfe newly killed, which they intended to eat ; they prefer this kind of food to beef, and invited us to ihare their repafr, which we declined, pretending we had not time. The i yth we left Kaflimova, and the 2ift arrived at Murum, a pretty large town, and a biftiop's fee. The country produces plenty of corn. About this place, there are a few idolatrous Tartars, who live in little dirty cottages, thinly fcattered ; they are a very flmple and harmlefs peo- ple ; how or when they fettled here is not known. The 22d we pafled a large village, called Paulovo- perevoz, the property of Prince Tzerhafkoy. Its fituation is on the fouth fide 16 A JOURNEY fide of the river : Here the banks are much higher than above this place. We came the 2jd to Nifhna-novogorod, a great town, defended by a caftle, ftanding on the high banks of the Oka, oppofite to where it lofes itfelf in the Volga, which now forms a mighty ftream. The following day we dined at the go- vernor's, where 1 faw General Creutz, and feveral other Swedish officers, who had been taken prifoners at Poltava, and lived here at large. The 25th we failed from Nifhna, and foon entered the Volga. The wind being northerly, we run along at a great rate ; but, in the night, the river was fuddenly rilled with floating ice, which drove us on a fand bank, where we lay a-ground that night and all the next day ; however, after much labour and fatigue, we got clear, al- though the floating ice ftiil continued. At laft the wind changed to the fouth, and the weather turned milder, .which enabled us to purfue our voyage. We TO ISPAHAN. 17 We .next pafled Vafily-gorod, and then Kofmo-deminnfko, frnall towns, both on the right. November 3d we came to Zaback-zar, a pretty large town, on the fame hand. In this country are caught the Deft and largeft faulcons in the world, much efteem- . ed for their ftrength and beauty, particu- larly by the Turks and Perfians, who pur- chafe them very dear. The Ruffians take few young hawks from the neft, preferring the old ones, which they man very dex- troufly to fly at fwan, goofe, cran, or heron. The Tartars fly them at antelopes and hares. I have feen them take a wild duck out of the water, when nothing of her could be perceived but the bill, which fhe was obliged to put up for air. Some of them are as white as a dove. The manner of catching them is very fimple : They e- rec~t a tall pole upon a hill, free from wood, on a bank of tfre river, near which, is pla- ced a day-net, 'under the net fome fmall birds are fattened by a cord, which the" VOL, I. C hawk- hawk- catcher pulls to make them flatter, on the appearance of the hawk, who ob- ferving his prey, firft perches on the pole, and, when he ftoops to feize the birds, the perfon, who is concealed by the bufhes, draws the net and covers him. The 4th, we pafied Kay-gorod, and the 5th, Swiiaffky, the firft on the left, and the other on the right hand. This evening we arrived before the town of Cazan, and hauled our boats into the mouth of a fmall river, from which the town has its name, called Cazanka. We intended to continue our voyage dircdly to Aftrachan ; but, be- fore we had made the neceflary preparations at Cazan, the winter fet in, and, on the 6th of September, the Volga was filled with floating ice ; this determined us to winter at that place ; we therefore unloaded the boats, and came to the city, where we were hofpitably received by the governour. CHAP. CHAP. II. Occurrences during ourjlay at Ca%an ; our journey thence to AJirachan. CAijAN is about feven hundred and thirty-five verft from Mofco by land, but much more by water : It is fituated a- bout five verft to the north of the Volga, on a high bank of the rivulet Cazanka, which is navigable from this place to the river. The town is ftrong by fituation, and defended by a caftle, fortified with walls of brick : Within the citadel are the cathedral church, the palaces of the arch- bifhop and governor, and the apartments for the courts of juflice : The town is fenced A JOURNEY fenced with a ditch and palifades. The fuburbs are inhabited chiefly by mechanics, except a ftreet or two poffefled by Maho- metan Tartars, the pofterity of the ancient natives ; they live very decently, have the free exercife of their religion, and many o- ther privileges ; fome of them are very rich by the trade they carry on to Turkey, Perfia, and other places. Cazan was anciently the capital of a part of Tartary, and the feat of government, where the royal family refided. It was ta- ken from the Tartars by Czar Ivan Vafilo- viz, in the year fifteen hundred and fifty- two, -in confequence whereof, an extenfive country to the fouthward eafily fell into his hands. The conquered Princes were convert- ed .to Chriftianity, and had lands affigned them in their own country, where the fa- mily flill fubfifts. The country adjacent is very pleafant and fertile, producing wheat, rye, barley, oats, and feveral kinds of pulfe. The taroods to the fouth and weft confift of ftate- TO ISPAHAN. It jy oaks, fufficient to fupply all the navies in the world ; and from hence St Peterfburgh is abundantly furnifhed with timber for all the purpofes of (hip-building, by an ea- fy conveyance all the way by water. The woods to the north and eaft, f which are of prodigious extent, confift of trees of all forts. In the fpring, when the fnow melts, the Volga overflows all the low grounds, fome- times to a great diftance; the confequence is the fame with that produced in Egypt, by the inundations of the Nile; for the mud, carried down by the ftream, fertilizes the country to a great degree ; fo that on the iflands in the Volga, fome whereof are very large, and overgrown with tall trees, I have found plenty of excellent afparagus. Befides the fterlett there are plenty of ilurgeon, and a fiu\ about the fize and near the fhape of the largeft falmon, which is very delicious, and, for the whitenefs of its flefh, is called the white fifh. . The 2* A JOURNEY The woods afford abundance of game J and, in the fpring, great numbers of water- fowl come hither to hatch from the Cafpian Sea. At Cazan we found good beef, mut- ton, and tame poultry, and provifions of all kinds very reafonable. There is here a confiderable manufactory of Ruffia leather, the hides here being reckoned the beft in the empire : Great quantities of this leather are exported to Leg- horn, and other parts of Europe, x and may be confidered among the ftaple commodities of this country : The ftrong fmell of this leather is acquired in the dreffing, for in- Head of oil, common in other places, they ufe a kind of tar, extracted by fire from the bark of the birch-tree ; which ingredient the Ruffes call deuggit, and which tree is here in greater abundance than in other parts of the world ; and then they dye them with logwood. Befides the idolatrous Tartars, formerly mentioned, there are two pretty numerous tribes called the Tzerimifh and Tzoowafh, they TO ISPAHAN, jy they fpeak a language quite different from the Mahometan Tartars in thefe parts, who ufe a corupted dialed: of the Arabic. The Mahometans likewife have fome learning ; but the Tzerimifh and Tzoowafh have none. They have a tradition among them, that, in former times, they had a book on religion ; but, as no body could read it, a cow came and fwallowed it. They pay great veneration to a bull. From whence they came is unknown ; but, from their completion, it is probable they are from Afia. They live by agriculture, and feem to be an inofFenfive kind of people. Their huntfmen offer in facrifice, to fome deity, the firft creature they catch. Hence fome curious men have imagined thefe people part of the ten tribes of the Jews, expelled by Shalmanezer. I advance this only as a conjecture, which every reader may fol- low, or not, as he pleafes. By accident I met with an Englifhman at this place. He was by trade a earpen- ter. ter, and had been in the Ruffian fervice ; but, being fufpected of deferring, he was condemned to banifhment, to this coun- try, for a certain time ; and, notwith- ftanding that was elapfed, the poor man, deprived of all means of aflerting his li- berty, remained ftill in the fame fituation. He bought a Tzerimifh wife, from her fa- ther, for fix rubles, about thirty fhillings Sterling. He brought her to vifit me. She was a woman of a cheerful and open coun- tenance, and dreffed in the manner of her country ; of which, for its fingularity, I lhall give a fhprt defcription. Her hair was plaited round her head, in many locks, but that on the back part long- er than the reft, at the nd of which was tied a taflel of red filk, and in the middle a fmall round brafs bell. About her head was a fillet fet with fmall {hells, inftead of jewels, and hung all round with filver pence. Above this was a piece of linen fo artfully plaited and done up, that it looked 1715* TO ISPAHAN. 25 looked like a grenadier's cap ; at the top was a filk taflel, with another brafs bell, which gingled as fhe turned her head. The reft of her drefs was clean, though homely ; and the whole feemed becoming enough. I think the cold is here more intenfe than at St Peterfburgh, though it is five or fix degrees farther fouth. In going about three miles from town, in a clear day, I had my face, fingers, and toes frozen, not- withftanding I was not half an hour on the road. I applied the common cure, that is, rubbing the numbed parts with fnow, which I found perfectly effectual. December 24th, our ambaflador arrived from Mofco. At the fame time came an exprefs from court, with the important news of the crown Princefs (as fhe was commonly called) being fafely delivered of a fon, chriftened by the name of Peter* She died foon after her delivery, univerfally lamented for her many rare and excellent virtues. She was of the Wolffenbuttle fami- ly, and wife to Alexy Petrovitz, the Cza- D revitz. *6 AJOURNEY 1715. . revitz. Befides this young Prince, fhe left a Princefs called Natalia. At Cazan we found two Swedifti gene- rals, Hamilton and Rofen, and many other officers of diftin&ion, taken prifoners at Poltava, who were no farther confined than by having a foldier of the garrifon to at- tend them at their lodgings ; and, by the generofity of the governour, lived as eafily as circumftances would allow. Thefe gen- tlemen were invited to all the public di- verfions ; and, by their polite and agree- able behaviour, contributed not a little to our paffing the winter with a good deal of pleafure, in fuch a remote part of the world. Upon the banks of the Cazanka {lands a monaftery, very pleafantly fituated. I accompanied our interpreter to vifit the abbot, who received us in a very friendly manner. He would not, however, give the interpreter his bleffing, nor admit him, into the church, during divine fervice, un- lefs he pulled off his wig. He, profefllng the 1716. TO ISPAHAN. 27 the communion of the Greek church, ex- poftulated a little with the prieft, telling him that their learned bifhops at Mofco made no fuch fcruples. The abbot re- plied, that it was contrary to the rules of discipline to allow any man to enter the church with his head covered. The time was now come when we ex- peded to leave Cazan. Our boats were ready in the beginning of May, but the Volga was ftill fo high and rapid, that it was reckoned dangerous to proceed till the flood fubiided ; for the force of the ftream frequently carries* vefTels from their courfe into the woods, where the water retiring, leaves them on dry land. At laft, on the 4th of June 1716, we left Cazan in eight barks, and rowed down the river with great velocity. In the night, one of our boats was driven, by the rapi- dity of the current, among the woods, and ftuck faft between two trees, up which the people climbed, being apprehenfive of dan- ger. 28 AJOURNEY 1716. ger. The confequence, however, was not fo fatal as the circumftances were alar- ming ; for the veflel was got off next day with inconfiderable damage. The yth, we pafled a fmall town called Tetoofk, and the 9th Sinbirfky, pretty large, and the capital of a province of that name, both to the right. Sinbirfky is de- fended by a caftle. Near this place are e- vident marks of camps and entrenchments, which I was told were the works of the great Tartar general called Timyrak-fack, or Lame Timyr, or Tamerlane, who came to this place with a great army ; but, being informed of an infurre&ion in his own country, Samarkant, now Bucharia, re- turned home. The loth, we put off from Sinbirfky with the wind contrary, which greatly re- tarded our progrefs. We pafled two hills, one of them exhibiting a very beautiful profpect, the other containing mines of ful- phur, as clear as amber. We pafled alfo a mound of fand, of considerable bignefs, in the 1716. TO ISPAHAN. 29 the middle of a plain, where they fay xvas buried a famous Tartar Prince called Ma- may. The 2cth, we arrived at the town of Samara, fituated to the left, in a fine plain. The place is but fmall, and fortified only with a ditch and palifades, with wooden towers at proper ^diftances, mounted with cannon, fufficient to defend it againft the incurfions of the Tartars, called Kara Kal- packs, or Black Caps, who inhabit the de- fert to the caftward of this place. This tribe of Tartars is not very confi- derable, and, when their chiefs are united, which feldom happens, can fcarce raife a- bove ten or twelve thoufand men, who are all mounted on horfeback ; becaufe, in their long marches, to rob and plunder their neighbours, nothing but horfe could be of any ufe. They live always in tents, with their flocks, removing from place to place, as led by inclination or neceffity. Their weapons are bows and arrows, and fabres ; fome of them ufe fire-arms. While we were 30 AJOURNEY 1716. were at Samara, the inhabitants were alarm- ed with the approach of two or three thou- fand of thefe people, who encamped about three miles diftant. From one of the tow- ers I could plainly fee their camp, and them riding about it. As they had not ar- tillery, the garrifon was in no danger, tho' fo weak, however, that it durft not at this time attack them. The people were obli- ged to keep a conftant watch to defend their cattle. This place is reckoned about three hundred and fifty verft diftant from Cazan. The 2 1 ft, having provided frefh hands for the navigation of our barks, we depart- ed from Samara ; and, the weather being calm, rowed down the river, which is here very broad. The weftern bank is very high, but the eaftern quite flat. The fields on both fides are very fruitful, but efpecially to the weft, where the grafs grows very high, intermixed with fage, thyme, and o- ther herbs ; there are alfo fome woods of oaks. A few hundred acres of fuch land would 1716. TO ISPAHAN. 31 would be of great value in England, tho* it is here wafte and uncultivated. We came the 2jth to the Ifmeyovi-gory, or Serpent-hills, fo called from the wind- ings of the river at this place ; and, after paffing feveral towns, and many villages, all on the right, we landed at Saratof, a large town on the fame fide, about eight hun- dred and fifty verft from Cazan. It is but flightly fortified with a ditch, wooden-walls, and towers mounted with cannon, and de- fended by a garrifon of regular troops and Coflacks. We dined next day with the Governour, who entertained us with great variety of provifions, particularly fifh, and very fine mutton. After dinner, a party of us crofTed the river, to vifit a great horfe-market, held by the Kalmuck Tartars. We faw about five or fix hundred of thefe people aflembled in a field, with a number of horfes all run- ning loofe, except thofe on which the Tar- tars were mounted. The buyers came from 32 AJOURNEY 1716. from different parts of Ruflia* The Tar- tars had their tents pitched along the river fide. Thefe tents are of a conical figure. There are feveral long poles creeled, incli- ning to one another, which are fixed at the top into fomething like a hoop, that forms the circumference of an aperture for letting out the fmoke, or admitting the light. Acrofs the poles are laid fome fmall rods, from four to fix feet long, and faf- tened to them with thongs : This frame is covered with pieces of felt, made of coarfe wool and hair. Thefe tents afford better fhelter than any other kind, and are fo con- trived, as to be fet up, taken down, folded, and packed up, with great eafe and quick- nefs, and fo light, that a camel may carry five or fix of them. Where the Chan, or any perfon of character, refides, they are placed in ftraight lines. Thefe Tartars are ftrong made ftout men, their faces broad, nofes flattifh, and eyes fmall and black, but very quick. Their drefs is very limple, confiding of a loofe coat of ftieep fkins tied with I 7 i6. TO ISPAHAN. 33 with a girdle, a fmall round cap, turned up with furr, having a taflel'of red filk at the top, leather or linen drawers, and boots. Their heads are all maved, except a lock behind, which is plaited, and hangs down, their backs. They are armed with bows and arrows, a fabre and lance, which they manage with great dexterity, acquired by conftant prac- tice from their infancy. They are men of courage and refolution ; but much afraid of cannon, which puts their hories in difor- der. As they are almoft always on horfe- back, they are excellent riders. The drefs of the women differs little from that of the men ; only their gowns are fomewhat longer than the coats of the men, a little ornamented, and bordered with party-coloured cloth. They wear ear- rings, and their hair all plaited in locks. The better fort drefs in filks in fummer. It muft be obferved, for the honour of their women, that they are very honeft and fin- cere, and few of them lewd. Adultery is VOL. I. E 3 54 A JOURNEY 1716, a crime fcaice ever heard of. The Tartars make very good and faithful fervants ; and the more mildly they are ufed the better they perform their duty ; for their wan- dering unconfined manner of life naturally infpires them with fentiments of liberty, and averfion and hatred to tyranny and pp- preflion. All their wealth is their flocks. Like thofe who lived in the early ages of the world, they have camels, horfes, cows, and fheep. The horfes are of a good fize for the faddle, and very hardy ; as they run wild till they are foinetimes fix years old, they are gene- rally headftrong. They are fold at this fair at five to fifteen or fixteen crowns, and the ftnong well fhaped natural pacers much higher. They have few camels, but many dromedaries, who have two protuberances on their backs. Their cows are of a middle fize ; the fheep large, having broad tails like thofe in Turkey ; the wool is coarfe, but the mutton very fine. In i 7 i6. tO ISP AH AN. $$ In the preceding century, a Kalmuck prince, named Torgott-Ghorluke, came from Alack-Ulla,' (which fignifies the fpotted mountains), a country fituated between Si- beria on the north, and India on the fouth, to the borders of Ruffia ; and brought a- long with him about fifty thoufand fami- lies, or tents, as they fometimes reckon. In his march weftward to the Volga, he defeated Eyball-utzick a Tartar prince, who lived in tents beyond the river Enbo. Ad- vancing forward, he met three other Tartar chiefs, named Kitta-haptzayj Malebafh, arid Etzan, whom he alfo defeated ; and at laft fettled to the eaft of the Volga, under the protection of the Ruffians. Chorluke had fix Ions. Dangtzinq, the eldeft, fucceeded him in the government or ehanfhip; The prefent Chan$ named Aijuka, is the fourth from Chorluke, and is much efteem- ed in the eaft for his fagacity and juftice. I am informed that the reafon why Chor- luke left his own country, was a difpute about the fueceflion to the ehanfhip. He being 3<5 AJOURNEY 1716. being engaged on the weakeft fide, and having unfuccefsfully tried his fortune in the field, at laft took the refolution of a- bandoning his own country altogether. Thefe people are generally called the Black Kalmucks, though they are not black, but only fwarthy. They have no money, except what they get from the Ruffians, and their other neighbours, in exchange for cattle. With this they buy meal fometimes, but moftly cloth, filk fluffs, and other apparel, for their women. They have no mechanics, ex- cept thofe who make arms. They avoid all labour, as the greateft flavery ; their only employment is tending their flocks, managing horfes, and hunting. If they are angry with a perfon, they wifh he may live in one place, and work like a Ruffian. Their language contains none of thofe hor- rid oaths common enough in tongues of more enlightened nations. They believe virtue leads to happinefs, and vice to mife- ry ; for, when defired to do what they think 1716. TO ISPAHAN. 37 think wrong, they reply, in a proverb, * Though a knife be (harp, it cannot cut 1 its own handle.' On long marches, all their provifions confift of cheefe, or rather dried curd, made up into little balls, which they drink when pounded and mixed with water. If this kind of food fails, they have always many fpare horfes, which they kill and eat. They broil or roaft the flefh before the fire, on pieces of broken arrows, and never eat it raw, as is commonly believed, unlefs compelled by neceffity. They have, in- deed, large thick pieces of horfe flefh, fmoked or dried in the fun, which they eat ; but this cannot properly be called raw. I have tafted fome of it, and thought it not amifs. As to their religion, I can fay little : They are downright heathens ; and have many lamas or priefts, who can read and write, and are diftinguifhed by their yel- low habits. Their high prieft is called Delay Lama, and lives far to the eaftward. July 3 8 AJOURNEY 1716. July J ft, we put off from Saratof, and the 2d, yth, and gth, pafled the towns of Kamofhinka, Czaritza, and Tzorno-yarr, all fituated on the weft bank, and fortified in the fame manner as Saratof. At the firft of thefe places, Captain Perry, an Englifh- man, with many workmen, was employed in cutting a canal between the Volga and the Don, which would have opened a paf- fage to the Euxine fea ; but the ground being very hard, and rifing in fome places confiderably above the level, the enterprife was laid afide, though the diftance was not above fifty verft. From Tzorno-yarr to Aftrachan, it is not fafe for Ruffians to travel on the weftern banks of the Volga, on account of the Cu- ban Tartars, who are their enemies. To the eaft, however, there is no danger, as the Kalmucks are friends. On the iflands in the Volga I obferved great quantities of liquorifh growing wild. The 1 3th, we arrived fafe at Aftrachan, and were lodged in the citadel. This place was 1716. TO ISPAHAN. 39 was taken from the Tartars in the year 1554, by the warlike Czar Ivan Vafilio- vitz ; whereby all his concjuefts on the Volga were fecured, and the way prepared for farther extending the Ruffian dominion to the fouth and eaft, which hath w been fjiccefsfully attempted fince his time. CHAP. 40 AJOURNEY 1716. CHAP. III. Occurrences during our Stay at A- ftrachan. Our journey thence to Shamachy. ASTRACHAN is fituated about fixty verft from the Cafpian Sea, on an ifland in the Volga, having the main branch of that river to the weftward. It is fortified by a ftrong brick-wall, with em- brafures, and fquare towers at proper dif- tances. In the citadel are the cathedral church, governour's palace, and the public offices. There is a creek or haven for (hips that navigate the river and the Cafpian Sea. The houfes are generally built with wood, con- 1716. TO ISPAHAN. 41 conveyed in rafts along the river ; for the neighbouring country produces nothing, being all a barren defert. To the weft- ward there is no water to be found for many miles. The iflands, however, adja- cent to the town, are very fruitful, and produce excellent grapes, tranfplanted hi-- ther from Perfia and other parts ; alfo wa- ter-melons, efteemed the beft in the world ; and various kino's of mufk-melons, peach- es, cherries, pears, apples, and apricots. Here are feveral large vineyards, belong- ing partly to the court, and partly to pri- vate perfons. There is a Frenchman who fuperintends them. The wines are very good when drunk on the fpot, but cannot bear carriage, for the leaft motion renders them infipid. Were it not for this circum- ftance, Ruffia would be able, not only to fupply itfelf abundantly with wine, but e- ven other parts of Europe. This perni- cious quality is attributed to the nitrous particles of the foil where the vines grow. I have myfelf feen, in the furrows made F for 42 A JOURNEY 1716. for watering them, a whitifh cruft of fait : But the grapes, notwithftanding, are very fweet, without the leaft tincture of tart- nefs. About a mile below the town are collec- ted great quantities of common fait. The people dig pits, into which they introduce the water ; which, being exhaled by the heat of the fun, the fait is left upon the I bottom. After gathering, they tranfport it along the river, in large barks of about five or fix hundred ton. The gun-powder manufactory is a little above the town ; in which, and in the mines of faltpetre, near this place, are employed a great number of workmen for the fervice of the govern- ment. The climate is healthy, though very hot. The weather is generally calm, during which great numbers of gnats mufkitos in- feft the inhabitants. Thefe vermine indeed are fometimes difperfed by a breeze from the fea, which renders this place very plea- fant. They are hatched and flickered in the TO ISPAHAN. 43 the marflies towards the fea, which are fo i overgrown with llrong tall reeds that they are altogether impaflable. The Mahometan Tartars here live with- out the town, and have the fame privileges as in other places. I met feveral 'of their women in the ftreet with rings in their nofes, which were of different value, ac- cording to the rank of the perfon who wore them ; fome of gold, and others fet with precious (tones. On inquiring the reafon of fuch a fingular ornament, I was told, that it was the confequence of a reli- gious dedication of thefe perfons to the fervice of God : It is made by the parents, even while the mother is pregnant ; in to- ken whereof, as foon as the child is born, they put a ring in the right noftril, which continues there till death. I have feen fome with two fuch rings. Aftrachan is a place of confiderable trade to Perfia, Ghiva, Bucharia, and India. The people of thefe nations have a commofi car*- 44 A JOURNEY 1716. caravanfery, where they live and expofe their goods to fale. The Armenians carry on the greateft part of the Perfian trade ; for the Perfians themfelves feldom go out of their own country. There are a few Indians, or Ba- nians, 4 at this place, who have a ftreak of yellow down their forehead, made with faffron or fome other vegetable. They are a good-natured, innocent kind of peo- ple, and live moftly on fruits. The market is plentifully fupplied with pfovifions of all kinds ; hut efpecially fifh, of which no place that' I know abounds with fuch variety. After the fale is over, which is ufually about ten o'clock, what remains of the common forts is thrown to the dung-hill, where the hogs and poultry feed upon them ; and hence it happens that their very pork and fowls tafte of fifh, It would be tedious to mention all the dif- ferent kinds this place affords : I cannot however omit the carp, which for fize ex- ceeds all of that name I ever heard of. I have 1716. TO ISPAHAN. 4.$ have feen fome of them of more than thir- ty pound weight, very fat and lufcious. Thofe caught in autumn are carried to Mofco frozen, and fold there and in the places adjacent. I obferved alfo a great variety of uncom- mon birds, whereof I {hall defcribe a few that feemed moft extraordinary. The firft I (hall mention, called by the Ruffians baba, is of a gray colour, and lar- ger than a fwan ; he has a broad bill, un- der which hangs a bag that may contain a quart or more ; he wades near the edge of the river, and on feeing a ihoal of fry, or fmall fifties, fpreads his wings and drives them to a fhallow, where he gobbles as many of them as he can into his bag, and then going alhore, eats them, or carries them to his young. This bird I take to be the pelican. The next is altogethef white, except its feet, which are black ; it is fomewhat lefs than a heron, and has a long broad bill. The 46 A JOURNEY 1716, The Germans call this bird leffel-ganze* the Ruffians kolpeck. There is another about the fame fize, alfo white ; but its feet are long and red, and its bill crooked and. round, and as red as coral : Its wings are adorned with fome bright fcarlet feathers. Befides thefe, I faw a kind of duck, fomething bigger than the common fort, called turpan ; it is eafily tamed, and much admired for its beauty, and a certain kind of noife peculiar to itfelf. I have eat of all thefe fowls ; but did not much relifli them, on account of the fifhy tafte with which they are all infected. There are alfo patridges and buftards, which need no defcription. The Kal- mucks, who are keen fportfmen, particu- larly at hawking, in which they have ar- rived to a great perfection, kill the buftards with bows and arrows : When they fee them feeding, they ride in upon them at full fpeed ; and as the buftard is a heavy bird, and mounts (lowly, they have an op- portu- 1716. TO ISPAHAN. 47 portunity of (hooting them with broad- headed arrows. On the banks of the Volga there is a fpecies of deer of a brighter red, and forrie- what larger than the fallow-deer ; they have green horns, but not branched, about nine inches long, and covered with circles, rifing one above another to the point, which is very (harp. This deer is very fwift, and its flefh excellent ;^it has a high fnout of griftle, which rifes very near to the eyes a circumftance which I have not obferved in any other animal. I faw alfo a fmall lively creature, called an Aftrachan hare, about the fize of a fquirrel, and of a reddifh colour, remark- able for having the fore-feet very fhort in proportion to the hind-feet ; its tail is long, with a tuft of hair at the extremity ; it burrows in the earth, and being a very- pretty creature, I have fometimes feen them in cages. The Kalmucks eat them very greedily. 48 A JOURNEY 1716. While we were at Aftrachan, an ambaf- fador arrived there, from the Chan of Chiva, going to St Peterfburgh. On his ar- rival he fent, according to the eaftern cuf- tom, fome fmall prefentto our ambafiador ; they were brought by part of his retinue, and confided of a hawking glove, a fmall knife, an embroidered purfe, and fome fruits. Chiva is a large territory, lying about two or three days journey eaftward from the Caf- pian Sea ; bounded by Perfia on the fouth, and Bucharia to the eaft. The capital, which bears the fame name, is large and populous, and governed by a Chan, eleded by the people. They are very troublefome and dangerous, both to travellers and their neighbours, being frequently employed either in robbing the former, or making depredations on the latter. And though Chiva is well fortified, its fituation, in fo fandy and barren a defert, is its bed defence. One day, as I was walking through the ftreets of Aftrachan, I obferved a very fm- gular 1716. TO ISPAHAN. 49 guiar appearance : It was a pretty Tartar lady, mounted aftride upon an ox ; (he had a ring in her nofe, and a firing drawn through the nofe of the ox, which ferved inftead of a bridle : She was drefled better than common, and attended by a footman. The fmgularity of the equipage, but parti- cularly her extraordinary beauty, drew my attention. The Mahometan muft not be confounded with the Kalmuck Tartars ; the firft are a well-looked civilized people in comparifon of the other. Before I leave Aftrachan it may be pro- per to rectify a miftaken opinion, which I have obferved frequently to occur in grave German authors, who, in treating of the remarkable things of this country, relate, that there grows in this defert, or ftepp, adjoining to Aftrachan, in fome plenty, a certain mrub or plant, called in the Ruffian language Tartarfkey barafhka, i. d. In fearch of this wonderful plant I walk- ed many a mile, accompanied by Tartars who inhabit thefe deferts : But all I could find out were fome dry bufhes, fcattered here and there, which grow on a fingle flalk, with a bumy top, of a brownifh co- lour; the ftalk is about eighteen inches high, the top confiding of {harp prickly leaves. It is true, that no grafs or weeds grow within the circle of its*fhade; a pro- perty natural to many other plants here and elfewhere. After further inquiry of the more fenfible and experienced among the 1716. TO ISPAHAN. 51 the Tartars, I found they laughed at it as a ridiculous fabje. At Aftrachan they have great quantities of lamb-fkins, gray and black ; fome wa- i ved, others curled, all naturally, and very pretty, having a fine glofs, particularly the waved* which* at a fmall diftance, appear like the richeft watered tabby : They are much efteemed, and are much ufed for the lining of coats, and the turning up of caps, in Perfia, Ruflia, and other parts. The beft of thefe are brought from Bucharia, Chiva, and the countries adjacent, and are taken out of the ewe's belly, after fhe hath been killed, or the lamb is killed im- mediately after it is lambed ; for fuch a {kin is equal in value to the ftieep. The Kalmucks, and other Tartars, who inhabit the defert, in the neighbourhood of Aftrachan, have alfo lamb-fkins, which are applied to the fame purpofes ; but the wool of thefe .being rougher, and more hairy, they are far inferior to thofe of Bucharia or Chiva, both in glofs and beauty, as- alfo jn the 52 A JOURNEY 1716. the dreffing, confequently in value. I have known one Tingle lamb-fkin of Bucharia fold for five or fix {hillings Sterling, when one of thefe would not yield two {hil- lings. On the jth of Auguft we quitted Aftra- chan in five veflels, three of them flat-bot- tomed, and of about an hundred and fifty tons burthen, with three mafts and ten guns each ; the other two common barks. We failed from Aftrachan about noon ; and at night came to an anchor at a fifhery, called Uttzugg. Both the banks are now flat ; to the weftward barren fands, and to the eaft marfhy and tall reeds, abounding with vermine ; fo that we neither eat nor flept in quiet, notwithstanding all the pre- cautions we could ufc. I muft confefs this place had an afped of horror, efpeci- ally when it is coniidered, that, befides the wild and difmal appearance of the banks, we were carried down a mighty river, into a great gulf, in many places of dangerous navigation, and whofe fhores are inhabited by t'fi6. TO ISPAHAN. 53 by inhofpitable and barbarous nations ; for fuch I reckon all of them, except the Ruf- fians and Perfians. Next morning, at break of day, we got under fail, and about ten entered the Caf- pian Sea ; into which the river difcharges itfelf by feven or eight large channels, and many lefler ones : Two only of thefe chan- nels are navigable by {hips of any burthen. At night we caft anchor near four hillocks of dry fand, caft up by the fea, called Tzeterey Bugory, computed to be about thirty verft from the mouth of the Volga : All which diftance we had not above fix or feven feet water ; and even this depth is very narrow ; fo that the paflage is ex- tremely dangerous in hard gales of wind. The yth, early, we again fet fail with a gentle breeze from the fhore, which foon drove us into three fathom water, and cut of fight of land ; the water however Hill continued frefh as the river. About neon the wind fhifted to the fouth, which obli- ged us to come to an anchor, where we lay 54. A JOURNEY 1716. lay for near three weeks in calms and con- trary winds. All this time we did not fee a fingle fhip, befides our own, except one Rufsveffel that came from Guilan in Perfia, with fome Armenian merchants, who made a prefent to' the ambaflador of a bafket of oranges, melons, and other fruits, which was the more acceptable, as our own provifions of that kind were all fpent. As often as the weather would permit we got under fail, and endeavoured to reach the road of Terky, a fmall fortified town, belonging to the Ruffians, on the north-weft corner of the Cafpian Sea, where we might be fup- plied with provifions; but the continual calms prevented our fuccefs. On the evening of the 26th of Auguft the wind changed to the north-weft ; we hqifted all the fail we could, fleering our courfe fouth fouth-eaft, and before night pafled the ifland of Tullen, i. e. of Seals ; many of which animals haunt this place* Tt continued to blow hard the whole night; 1716. TO ISPAHAN. 5 The remedy, as in the former cafe, is the appli- cation of the fame animal, when bruifed,to the part, by which the poifon is extracted. They alfo make the patient drink abun- dance of fweet milk, after which he 'is put in a kind of tray, fufpended by ropes fixed in the four corners ; it is turned round till the ropes are twifted hard together ; an3, when let go at once, the untwining caufes the bafket to run round, with a quick mo- tion, which forces the patient to vomit. They alfo make them dance to mufical inftruments, which the fick perfon fome- times does, of his own accord, till he drops down upon the fpot. One of thefe terrible creatures happened to fall out of the del- ing upon my hand, as I was going one night to bed ; I fhook it off inftantaneouf- ly, without receiving the leaft harm. E- very thing near was moved, and fearched for it, Iput to no purpofe, there being many holes joS A JOURNEY 1717. holes in the floor. It may eafily be ima- gined that apprehenfion would prevent my fleeping much that night* The 6th, we travelled five or fix agatz to Kaltabbatt ; and the next day five, to Nattanee, a finall town fituated under fome high mountains. Here the Shach has a pretty little palace, with gardens, fountains of fine water, and cafcades. We lodged in the palace. The jackals were fo bold, that they howled un- der the windows all the night long, and carried off fome of our poultry. On the top of a mountain, near this place, ftands a high tower, built by Shach Abbafs, which is feen at a great diftance. The 8th, we left Nattanee, and in three hours pafled a fine houfe, with gardens, built by Shach Abbafs, and fituated by it- felf in a pleafant plain. About three hours after, xve came to Tutrin, an old caravan- fery, where we lodged. The heat increafed daily as we advanced to the fouth. The qth, we reached Ruck, eight agatz diflant from ,717. TO ISPAHAN. jog from Tutrin, and four hours journey from the city of Ifpahan. The loth, being the vernal equinox, when the new year commences among the Perfians, we halted all day. In the even- ing, thirty fine horfes, with rich furniture, were fent from the Shach's ftables to the ambaflador. Some of the bridles were or- namented with gold, others with filver. Two lions were brought by a Perfian to be fhown to the ambaflador. They were led into a court-yard, and let loofe upon a goat ; but, inftead of the goat, they ran at ibme of our people, who narrowly efcaped, by getting into a houfe, and faulting the doors. It feems the fight of fo many ftran- gers had frightened them ; for the keeper himfelf with difficulty chained them, and one of them even bit his hand. The nth, we advanced two agatz, to Davilett-abbatt, a village. . On the morning of the I3th, the May- mander Bafha, or chief conductor, arrived with tio A JOURNEY 1717. with many attendants. In the evening we mounted, and, being accompanied with a> numerous train of courtiers, and other peo- ple, we travelled two agatz to the fuburbs of the city, where we lodged in a palace called Tuchtzy, belonging to the Shach. The I4th, in the morning, came a num- ber of horfes fufficient for the ambaflador and all his train ; this being the day ap- pointed for our public entry. About noon, the Maymander Bafha re- turned, to conduct the ambaflador to his lodgings in the city. He was Attended by many perfons of diftin&ion. After noon, we mounted, and entered the city. We pafled through many ftreets crowded with fpectators, as were alfo the tops of the houfes. It was faid that the Sophy. himfelf was at a window, incognito, with fome of his ladies. Curiofity had cau- fed fuch a crowd, that, had not the way been cleared by the Perfian guards, it would have been impoflible for us to pafs along; 1717. .TO ISPAHAN. in along. At laft, we reached the end of our journey ; a noble palace, in the middle of the city, with a garden, three courts, and apartments fufficient for the ambaflador and all his retinue. The Order of the Entry. An officer. Three dragroons. A kettle-drum. Four trumpets. Thirty dragoons, three a-breaft, with drawn Swords. Six fpare horfes, with fumptuous trappings. The fteward. Twelve footmen. Two pages. Three footmen. Two interpreters. Two hey-dukes in Hungarian habits. The H2 A JOURNEY 1717. The ambaflador, with the maymander, Baftia, and interpreter. The prieft and one gentleman. Myfelf and one gentleman. Two clerks. Faulconers, huntfmen, &c. CHAP. I I 4717. TO ISPAHAN. 113 CHAP. VI. Occurrences during our Stay at If* pahan. TH E i5th, the agents of the Englifli and Dutch factories, viz. Mr Coppin the Englifh agent, fent Meflieurs Batfon and Reynardfon, the Dutch agent likewife fent two gentlemen of their company, to falute the ambaflador. The i6th, the Maymander Baftia invited the ambaflador to an audience of the Etma- dowlett, or prime minifter, which he would not comply with, till he had an audience of thaShach, and delivered his credentials, though it is ufual firft to take an audience VOL. I. P of H4 A JOUR.NEY 1717. of that minifter. This day I vifited the Englifh factory, where I met with a friend- ly reception. On the 27th was a great fall of rain, fuch as had not been at Ifpahan for feven years : It was the caufe of great joy in this iiiltry dry climate, though to me it feemed nothing extraordinary. April i ft, 1 went to Julffa to fee a friend, accompanied by Mr Batfon. It is a large place in the fuburbs, inhabited by Arme- nians, who have the free exercife of the Chriftian religion. On the loth, I dined at the Dutch houfe, the weather very hot. May 4th, the ceremonial part of the am- bafiador's introduction to the Shach being previoufly agreed on, he was this day to have his firft audience. In the morning horfes were fent from the King's ftables, all of them magnificently equipped, with grooms to attend them ; many jof the fad- dies and bridles were garniflied with gold and filver. We 1717- TO ISPAHAN. 115 "VVe marched in the fame order as at our entry above mentioned, o'nly the dragoons had not their fwordsj drawn. After paffing through feveral ftreets, we came to the great market place, called Bazar, and then to a gate called Alla-capy, i. e. GodVgate, where we difmounted. Acrofs this gate is hung a chain, and none are permitted to enter on horleback except the Shach him- felf. We walked through >the guards, drawn up on each fide, to an inner court, and thence to an arched gate, furrounded with benches, and fpread with carpets. Here the ambaflador was defired to fit down till the Shach was ready to receive him. We waited at leaft two hours, du^ ring which time, all the miniflers of ftate, and officers of the houfehold, pafTed us in great ftate ; after them came a large ele- phant, mounted by his keeper, and adorned with gold and filver fluff ; then two large lions, led by their keepers with chains of mafly gold. When ii o bottle, that contained about two quarts, with a fmall cup of the fame metal. On the ijth, the ambaflador had a fe- cond audience of the Etmadowlett, relating to the fubjedt of the embafly. Three days after, the Hackim Bafha, or chief phyfician, fent me an invitation to vifit him. He received me in a very cour- teous obliging manner. ; and detained me above two hours, talking on different fub- 1717. TO ISPAHAN. 729 jefts. He told me, that the phyficians irf Perfia made vegetables, and their virtues, their chief ftudy ; they dealt but little iqt minerals and chemical preparations. Then he afked me whether the European phyfi- cians admitted opium in their prefcriptions ? I told him they did with great fuccefs. To which he replied, that the qualities of that drug were known to very few. He in- quired whence tea came ? how it fhould be made ? and what were its virtues ? All which I anfwered to his fatisfadtion. Hence it is evident that the Perfians have no cor- refpondence nor commerce with the Chi- xufe. The phyfician is an elderly man, of a grave deportment, and might pafs for a doctor any where. On taking my leave, he told me he was forry he could not con- verfe with me but by means of an inter- preter, which was tedious and difagree- able. The fame day the Dutch commiffary, Myn-heer Vonkettler, made his public en- try at Ifpahan, as envoy from the gover- VOL. I. R nouf AJOURNEY 1717. nour of Batavia to the Shach of Perfia. He was preceded by fix elephants, fent as a prefent to the King by the governour. He had a numerous retinue, and was attended by feveral gentlemen, and made as grand an appearance as if he had been a minifter from any court of Europe. He took up his lodgings at the Dutch fadtory. Mr Kettler told me, that he was born in Cour- land ; that, in his youth, he inlifted as a foldier in the fervice of the Dutch Eaft-In- dia company ; by his uncommon abilities he had raifed himfelf from that low fitua- tion to the honourable place he now held. The following day Mr Kettler fent two of his retinue to compliment our ambafla- dor : And, both our gentlemen being in* difpofed, I was fent next day to return the compliment. The 28th, I dined at the Dutch houfe, where we had a grand entertainment. June 2d, the ambaflador intended to go a hunting, and to take a view of the coun- try 1717. TO ISPAHAN. 131 try about Ifpahan. But an officer came from court, defiring him to delay it till an- other opportunity ; for the Shach had pitched on that day to vifit a country- houfe, in company with his ladies ; on which occafions it is death for any one to be feen near the place where the court paf- fes. To prevent accidental tranfgreflions in this refpect, a cryer is previoufly def- patched to warn the inhabitants, who pro- claims through the ftreets, and along the road, that nobody, under pain of death, {hall appear either in the way, or from any houfe near it, by which his majefty and the ladies are to march. The Shach rides on horfeback, attended only by eunuchs. The ladies are mounted aftride, fome on horfes, others on mules and afles. They are all veiled with white muflin, fo that nothing can be feen of them but the eyes and nofe. The Perfians tell a pleafant ftory of Shach Abbafs's behaviour on an occafion of this nature. The Shach at a certain time 132 AJOURNEY 1717. time was riding along, attended by his con- cubines, when he happened to meet a poor country-fellow upon the road, He was immediately brought before the King, and, expecting inftant death, fell on his knees, molt fubnvflivdy begging pardon for fo heinous an offence, and pleaded ignorance in his excufe, having neither feen nor heard of any cryer. The prince was pleafed with the fimplicity and innocence of the pea- fant, ordered him to take courage, and all the ladies to unveil ; then defired him to N pick out any of his concubines he liked beft, and he ftiould have her for a wife. This treatment difpelled his fear ; he pitch- ed on one that pleafed him moft. The Shach approved fo much of his tafte that he carried him to court, where he foon became a great favourite. The Qth, I dmed at the Englim factory, \vhere Mr Coppin, and the other gentle- men belonging to the company, received me in the moft friendly manner. The day was very hot, and in the evening we fup- ped ! 7 i 7 . TO ISPAHAN. 133 ped near a fountain in the garden. On a fudden we felt a guft of wind, as hot as if it had come from the mouth of an oven. It was foon over without any bad effect. But I was informed that thefe hot winds are very dangerous, in travelling over the deferts, and often kill people immediately. The only refource, on perceiving them co- ming, is to fall down flat, with the face to the ground, and continue in that pofture till they are gone. % On the 1 2th, the ambaflador had a third audience of the Shach at Farrabbatt, a coun- try- houfe near the city. It is an extremely pleafant place, adorned with gardens, foun- tains, and cafcades, furrounded with parks for all kinds of game. While we were at fupper on the terrace, we had a fqual of wind, which almoft carried away every thing, and actually fwept off the thin broad cakes, which the Perfians ufe inftead of napkins. The 1 6th, Monfieur Ricard, whom I mentioned at Tauris, and twelve mifliona- ries 134 A JOURNEY , 7 , 7 . ries of different orders, were invited to dine with the atnbaflador. Several of thefe gentlemen had been long in India and E- thiopia, which rendered their converfation very entertaining. The 2 1 ft, the ambafTador was invited to dinner by the devettar, or keeper of the great feal and ftandifh. Here, as in all o- ther countries, this is an office of great truft. We were entertained with more magnificence than by the prime minifter, or even at court. Soon after we entered, there were ferved up a great variety of fweet-meats, and all kinds of fruit that the climate afforded. Coffee and flierbet were carried about by turns. We were placed crofs-legged on the carpets, except the am- baffador, who had a feat. During this part of the feaft we were entertained with vo- cal and inftrumental mufic, dancing boys, tumblers, puppets, andjuglers: All the performers executed their parts with great dexterity. Two of them counterfeit- ing a .quarrel, one beat off the other's turban I 7 i 7 . TO ISPAHAN. turban with his foot, out of which dropped about fifteen or twenty large ferpents, which run or crawled about the room. One of them came towards me, with great fpeed, which foon obliged me to quit my place. On feeing us alarmed, they told us the crea- tures were altogether inofFenfitre, as their teeth had been all drawn out. The fellow went about the room and gathered them a- gain into his turban, like fo many eels. The victuals were now ferved in a neat and elegant manner. Every thing was well drefled in the Pcrfian famion. Our hoft was very cheerful, and contributed e- very thing in his power to pleafe his guefts. He excufed himfelf handfomely enough for not having wine, as it was not then ufed at court. On the 23d, the Maymander Bafha brought a meflage from the Shach to the ambaflador, intimating, that the bufmefs of his embafly being now finimed, he might choofe his own time to depart. This was not very agreeable news to the ambarTador, who 136 AJOURNEY 1717. who alledged, that, before he could pro- cure (hipping, to tranfport him to Aftra- chan, the feafon would be far advanced, and oblige him to winter in fome part of Perfia. July i ft, the Shach fent the ambaflador, and the principal parts of his retinue, what the Perfia^s call the kalatt. It confifts of a tunic, a long rob of gold and filver fluff, a fafh and 'urban, and fome pieces of Per- fian filk, whereof about ten or a dozen fell to my fh^re. The whole value was not considerable j \. at the Shach beftows this mark of favour to all foreign minifters who come on friendly errands. On this occa- fion he fent the ambaflador, in particular, a p**efenr of two fine horfes from his own ftables. . 1 e 3d, the ambaflador had his laft au- dience of the 3hach, at a palace in the ci- ty ; when he received an anfwer to the Czar's letter, and immediately took leave ftanding, wuaout further ceremony. The 1717- TO ISPAHAN. 137 The 8th, the Shach fent the ambafTador another prefent, confiding of an elephant, two lions, two leopards, fix monkeys of different kinds, three parrots, two white and one green, three fine horfes, and an Indian bird, called myana ; it is in colour, lhape, and fize, like a black-bird, and whittled a very fine note. Auguft the 3d, we began to prepare for our journey homeward, which took up much time. The i8th, we removed from, our lodgings in the city to a houfe belong- ing to the Shach, in the northern fuburbs, called Tauchtzy. The 26th, I took leave of my friend Mr Coppin, who fet out this day on his jour- ney to England,, by way of Aleppo. The Englifh factory at Ifpahan are very well fituated in the middle of the city, have a fpacious 'garden adjoining, and are feparated from the reft of the town by a wall. Moft of the great houfes in the city are furroun- ded in the fame manner, which renders' it very extenfive. VOL. I. S Ifpahan 138 A JOURNEY 1717* Ifpahan is fituated nearly in thirty-two degrees north latitude, on a fruitful plain, in the province of Hierack, anciently the kingdom of the Parthians- " About three or four Englifh miles diftant from the city, to the fouth, runs an high ridge of mountains from eaft to weft. Shach Ab- bafs the Great transferred the feat of the Perfian government from Cafbin to this place. Ifpahan is plentifully fupplied with wa- ter from the river Schenderoo, which runs between the city and the fuburbs, keeping its courfe to the north. It rifes near the city, and is fordable almoft every where, unlefs during great rains, which feldom happen. After paffing this place, its courfe is but fhort, for it foon lofes itfelf.in dry parched plains. Over the Schenderoo there are three ftately ftone-bridges in fight of one another; but the one in the middle, betwixt the city and that part of the fub- urbs called Julpha, which terminates the fpacious ftreet Tzar-bach, far exceeds any ftrudure 1717- TO ISPAHAN. 139 ftru&ure of that kind I ever faw. It is broad enough for two carriages and a horfe- man to pafs a-breaft, and has galleries on each fide, which are covered, for the con- venience of people on foot ; and watchmen are ftationed at each end, to prevent difor- ders. There are few houfes in the town which have .not their chaufes, i. e. cifterns of water, conveyed in pipes from the ri- ver : A moft falutary and refrefhing cir- cumftance, in fuch a dry and fultry cli- mate. The city is populous, jrfid,,as 1 already obferved, very extenfive. As moft of the inhabitants have their houfes apart, fur- rounded with gardens, planted with fruit and other trees, at a diftance it appears like a city in a for eft, and affords a very agree- able profpeft. The ftreets are generally very narrow and irregular, except that leading to the great bridge, already mentioned. This noble ftreet is very broad and ftraight, and near an Engliih mile in length. On each fide A JOURNEY r 7 i 7 ; fide are the King's palaces, courts of juftice, and the academies for the education of youth, with two rows of tall chinar trees, which afford a fine fhade. Thefe trees have a fmooth whitifh bark, and a broad leaf, like the plane-tree. At certain diftan- ces, there are fountains of water that .play continually, round which are fpread car- pets ; and thither the Periians refort to drink coffee, fmoke tobacco, and hear news ; which, I muft confefs, is very a- greeable in hot weather. About half a mile below the city is a fine plain upon the banks of the river, where the Perfians, every evening, exercife their horfes in riding, and accuftom them to the difcharge of fire-arms. They alfo fhoot at butts with bows and arrows, and throw blunted darts at one another ; at which they appear very dextrous. The city is almoft quite defencelefs, ha- ving only a flight wall round it, built of mud dried by the fun, which is broken down in many places ; fo that, if the army is de- feated t 7 i 7 . TO ISP-AHAtf. feated in the field, Ifpahan cannot defend itfelf one day ; for even all the artillery I faw, confided of about twenty brafs can- non, which ftood in the grand court before the palace-gate, and were more for parade than real ufe. ' The houfes here, as in other places of Perfia, are generally built with bricks har- dened by the fun. The roofs are flat, and covered with a terrace. They make but a mean appearance from the ftreet, though within they are neat and clean, and very convenient for the Perfian manner of life. The Shach's palaces, the public edifices, and the houfes of all perfons of diftinction, are built with ftone. As the ftreets are not paved, when it is windy, the city is fometimes involved in fuch a cloud of duft, that the fun is fcarcely vifible. This obliges the inhabitants to water the ftreets at leaft every evening. Thefe gufts of wind are very difagreeable ; but they happen feldom, and are of fhort .duration. At j 4 2 A JOURNEY i 7 i 7 ; i At Ifpahan are many manufactories of filk and cotton, and a great many filk worms in the neighbourhood. As the con- fumption of filk is very confiderable at this place, little of it is exported. The making carpets, however, employs the greateft number of .hands ; for which the demand is great, as they are preferable in quality, defign, and colour, to any made elfewhere. The fields about the city are very fer- tile, and produce plentiful crops of excel- lent wheat and barley ; but then they muft all be watered, on account of the drynefs of the foil, which is a work of labour and expence. Befides thefe, I faw no other . gram. The Perfians tread out their corn with oxen or afles. For this purpofe, they make a circle, about twenty or thirty feet in dia- meter, on the circumference whereof the {heaves are laid. There is a light fledge or hurdle drawn by the cattle, in which the driver fits, and directs them round and round, as often as is neceflary ; and new {heaves 17I 7. T.O ISPAHAN. 143 {heaves are always added when the former ones are trodden fufficiently.< This opera- tion alfo foftens the ftraw, and renders it very good provender. There is no hay in Perfia ; and the beft horfes are kpt in a condition for any fervice by this food, and a fmali quantity of dried barley twice a day. They have flocks of large fheep, whereof the mutton is very good, but the^wool coarfe. In the province of Karamenia, in- deed, they have exceeding fine wool, fome of which I -have feen little inferior to filk. Their horned cattle are buffalos, which af- ford them milk, and are ufed in plowing the ground, and drawing carriages. They have alfo the common kind of cattle of dif- ferent fizes. Tfye better fort of people eat chiefly mutton and fowls, but very little beef. Befides the cattle I have mentioned, there is another kind, having a high riling upon the (houlder, with clean limbs, which are very handfome. As 344 A JOURNEY As I have formerly obferved, that the Perfians make life of ice to cool their wa- ter in fummer, it may be afked, where are got fuch quantities, in fo hot a climate, as are daily fold in the ftreets for that pur- pofe ? I was informed, that there were people who made it their bufmefs to watch the frofty nights, in the winter feafon ; on which occafions they went to the moun- tains near the city, and threw water on certain places, which being frozen, they continued to repeat the operation till the ice was of convenient thicknefs; then they cut it in pieces, and carry it into caves, hewn in the rocks, where it is preferved during the fummer. What they cannot carry off before the fun rifes is covered, to defend it from his heat. While I remained at Ifpahan, I vifited the Shach's aviary. It contains a great va- riety of all kinds of birds, many of which had come from India, and other foreign parts. Among the reft were a couple of turkeys, which it feems are rare birds in Perfia. 1717- TO ISPAHAN. ,145 Perfia. The place is very neat and ele- gant. The aviary is about fifteen feet high, and covered with a net-work of brafs-wire, to prevent the birds flying a- way. Provifions of all kinds are very dear at Ifpahan, which is fufficiently apparent from the number of poor that go about the ftreets. Nothing, however, is fo extrava- gantly high as fire- wood. The Roman catholics have three con- vents in the city, viz. thofe of the Carme- lites, Capuchins, and Auguftins. The Je- fuits and Dominicans have their feparate convents in the fuburbs of Julpha, which is inhabited by Armenians, who are al- lowed the free exercife of their religion. There is a confiderable number of Jews in the city, who are either merchants or mechanics. In the neighbourhood of the city is a tribe of people, called by the Perfians Giaur, who worfhip fire, being the pofte- rity of the ancient inhabitants of this coun- VOL. I. T try, 146 A JOURNEY 1717. try, who paid divine honours to that ele- ment. They are a poor indolent race, and live in nafty huts, or in tents. They fpeak a different language from the Peifians ; have black hair, and are of a fwarthy cotn- plection. They have fome fheep and cattle ; but many of thesn go about the ftreets beg- About three or four miles to the fouthr ward of the city, are to be feen the ruins of a tower on the top of a mountain, where it is faid Darius fat when Alexander the Great fought the fecond battle with the Perfians. I was alfo told, that, about two days jour- ney from Ifpahan, arc diftinguifhable the remains of the tomb of Queen Efther, a lady celebrated in holy writ for many vir- . Thefe, and many other places, 1 in- tended to have examined on the ipot, but was unluckily prevented, for want of time. While we lay at Tauchfzy, waiting for hq:"fes and camels, two of our fervaius were ftung with fcorpions ; but were foon cured, iyiy. TO ISPAHAN. 147 cured, by timely application of the oil of fcorpions, prepared after the Perfian man- ner, without any other remedy. The jack- als made a difmal howling under our win- dows every night. I have now finimed my obfervations on whatever feemed moft remarkable in and about the city of Ifpahan. I mall only add, that, among the many lofty and pompous titles which this mighty monarch aflumes, there are fome very extraordinary ; of which 1 fhall mention one, ' That the * greateft kings of the earth may think it * an honour to drink out of his horfes * footfteps.' Several more inftances might be given, in the Oriental ftile, fully as ex- travagant. The Shach's Palaces. 1. Tzel Sootun, or that of forty pillars; 2. Tevela Telear, near the ftables. S.Hafta- I 4 8 A JOURNEY 1717, 3. Hafta*Behafi, chambers of paradife. 4. Othiat Tallard, near the Haram. 5. Guldefta, houfe of eunuchs. 6. Tauchtzy, at the north entry. 7. Farrabbatt, fouth-eaft from the city. Perfia is at prefent divided into fixteen provinces, many of them of great extent. I fliall mention their prefent names, and, under them, thpfe they feem to have borne among the ancients* 1. Turkomania, Great Armenia. 2. Diatbeck. Mefopatamia. 3. Kurdiftan, Part of Aflyria. 4. Hierack Arabee, Chaldea, or Babylon. 5. Hierack Aggemy, Region of the Parthians. 6. Shirvan, I7 i 7 . TO ISPAHAN. 149 6. Shirvan, Towards the north-weft coaft of the Cafpian Sea. 7. Guilan and Mefanderan, Hyrcania. 8. Aftrabatt, Margiana. 9. Ufbeck, Badria. 10. Koraflan, Aria. ii. Sableftan, Parapomifia. 12. Sigiftan, Drangiana. 13., Arachofia. 14. Machran. 15. Karamenia, Reaching to the gulph of Ormus. ' 1 6. Pharfiftan, Old Perfia, whereof Perfepolis was the capital city. A JOURNEY I have added the ancient names accor- ding to the beft information I could pro- cure ; for, under the various revolutions of this country, the records have been al- xnoft wholly either loft or deftroyed : So that the Perfians themfelves know very little of the ancient hiftory of their coun- try. 1717- T'O ISPAHAN. 151 From Ifpahan to Shamachy ; oc- currences during ourjlay there. SEPTEMBER ift, having procured horfes and camels, and every thing neceflary, and having alfo got a conductor from the Shach, we this day left Ifpahan in order to return to Ruffia. We travelled fhort ftages along the fame road by which we came to Ifpahan. Little material hap- pened for a confiderable time, and I fhall not repeat what I formerly obferved ; I fhall only take notice, that many of the places through which we pafled were much infefled by ftrong gangs of highway-men. We 15* A JOURNEY 1717. We were therefore obliged to travel very cautioufly, and to keep our people toge- ther near the baggage, but particularly to procure a fafe caravanfery for our lodgings. The weather continuing very hot, was the reafon of our making eafy marches ; and thefe chiefly in the mornings and evenings, and fometimes in the night, when it could be done with fafety. We travelled in this manner till the 26th of September, when we arrived at a village called Arrazant, where we lodged. Next iday, inftead of puriuing the fame route by Tauris, we turned to the right, and took the road leading to Cafbin and Guilan. The syth, we proceeded five agatz to Membereck ; and the 2%th four, to the city of Oafbin. This place is fituated in a fpacibus plain, having a ridge of high mountains to the north. I mentioned for- merly, that Cafbin was once the feat of government, and the refldence of the Per- fian monarchs. There are ftill to be feen the ruins of many (lately mofques, palaces, and 1717- TO ISPAHAN. 153 and other public edifices. The city appears to have been, in former times, very large and flouriming, but is now much contract- ed and decayed. The plague raged here all the preceding fummer, which had almoft depopulated the place : And, although the fury of that contagious diftemper was much abated, people continued to die daily, which made us refolved to remain no longer than was abfolutely neceffary,. in order to prepare things for our journey to Guilan. This could not be foon accomplifhed at a time of fuch public calamity. In the mean time, many of our people were feized with peftilential fevers, who all recovered but one. He died fuddenly, with the ufual fymptoms of the plague. I and feveral of our people were likewife ta- ken with fevers, occafioned by our being lodged in houfes where the Perfians had lately died. Thefe circumftances made the ambaflador refolve to leave the place at all events. During the time therefore VOL. I. U which S54 A JOURNEY 1717. which we were obliged to wait for horfes and camels, we removed out of town about a mile, to a garden belonging to the Shach, provided for us by the commandant of the city and province. Here we fet up our tents ; and in this fituation, by the help of free air and good water, our people reco- vered furprifingly ; fo that, in a {hort time, moft of them were able to ride, another gentleman only and myfelf were carried in litters between two mules. The 1 2th of October we fet out again, purfuing our journey northward. After travelling about two leagues through a plain, we afcendedan high and fteep moun- tain, and, proceeding onward about a league, came to a fmall village where we lodged. All the inhabitants had forfakea their houfes. Whatever elfe was wanting, we had here the comfort of pure air, which had fuch an effect on me that next day I was able to mount on horfeback^ though, at fetting out, I was fcarcely in condition 1717. TO ISPAHAN. condition to bear the eafy motion of the lit- ter. We continued our journey, afcending and defcending many fteep rocks and mountains for four days, when we arrived at Menzyly, a little town fituated in a charming valley ; where grow abundance of citrons, oranges, olives, befide grapes and other fruits. Thefe I own were tempting objects ; but fad experience taught many of us to value them no more than floes or bramble berries. Menzyly is governed by a kalentar or judge ; it is a pretty romantic place, encompafled by high mountains on all fides, which decline to the north, and are covered with grafs. This is a rare fight in Perfia, and is caufed by the great au- tumnal rains ; for along the fouth coaft of the Gafpian Sea, it rains at this feafon, al~ moft without intermiffion, for the fpace of fix weeks or two months. In this and the neighbouring villages are bred a great number of filk-worms, which produce the beft and greateft quantities of raw filk 156 AJOURNEY 1717. made in the province of Guilan ; from whence it is exported by the Armenian merchants, partly through Ruflia to Hol- land, and partly by land to Aleppo, for the Levant trade. Having ftaid two days at Menzyly, we fet out again in heavy rains, through deep roads, which greatly incommoded our ca- mels ; for they often flipped, and fome- times fell down under their burthens : However, in five days we reached Remd, the capital of the province of Guilan. Remd ftands in a plain, furrounded with great woods on every fide, about a day's journey from the neareft fhore of the Caf- pian Sea, where is a very good harbour for fhips of fmall burthen. The houfes are thinly fcattered, refem- bling rather a large village than a town. As the ground at this place is very flat, the inhabitants are obliged to chufe the dryeft places to build on. In the market place, I faw about eight pieces of cannon, mounted on forry carriages j among which was a neat 1717. TO ISPAHAN. 157 neat brafs field-piece, with the name of that noted Prince the Duke of Holftein Gottorp upon it : It feems to have been left here accidentally by the ambaiTadors of that Duke to the then Shach of Perfia. The houfes are mean, in comparifon with thofe in other parts of Per fa ; the roofs are raifed and tiled, to carry off the great falls of rain. The marines and pools, with which Refhd is furrounded, renders it very un- healthy, efpeciaily in the heat of fummer, when it is often vifned with the pefti- lence ; and, although it is a place of the greateft plenty, the inhabitants look as half ftarved. I was told they were obliged to confine themfelves to a fcanty diet ; that if they allowed themfelves the lead indul- gence, even fo far as to eat their rice with butter, they were liable to agues, the reigning ditlemper in this climate. Many of our people were adually feized with thefe agues, though none of them proved mortal. Here, as at the capitals of the o- ther AJOURNEY ther provinces, we were obliged to remain a conflderable time, much longer than we inclined : For every province bears the ex~ pence of ambafTadors, from the time they arrive at its capital, till they reach the ca- pital of the next province, where frefh fup- plies of money and cattle are to be procu- red. The obtaining thefe things, and the rainy weather, detained us in this difagree- able place. The pools are full of frogs that chatter like magpies, and make fuch a loud croaking, befides their chattering, that a perfon cannot fleep till he is accuftomed to that noife. The country above Remd is very fruit- ful, particularly in rice, which grows plenti- fully on the marfhy grounds, and is fufficient to fupply moft of the other provinces of Perfia ; there is alfo plenty of fruit natural to the climate. The Armenians, who in- habit Remd, make good wine, both red and white ; and even in the woods you may fee the vines, loaden with clufters of grapes, twifting about the trees, which are left 1717- TO ISPAHAN. 159 left to the birds, as they are not worth ga- thering amid fuch plenty. Great flocks of fieldfares, thmfhes, black- birds, with vaft quantities of ftorks, cranes, fwans, wild-geefe, and all other kinds of water-fowl, come hither from the north, during the winter, and return to the nor- thern regions in the fpring. The ftaple of Guilan is raw filk, of which they make great quantities, both for their own confumption and for exporta- tion. While we remained at Reftid, two am- bafladors arrived from the Aijuka Chan, Prince of the Kolmuck-Tartars, in their way to Ifpahan. November Qth, we left Refhd, and tra- velled through thick woods to the fhore, along which we kept to the left, in all a- bout five agatz, and then lodged in a fmall empty village. The 1 3th, we proceeded fix agatz to a fmall town called Kefhker. This day the f oad lay through pleafant woods. At fome diftance I A JOURNEY 1717. diftance from fea we met with fome groves of orange trees, where we found bloflbms, ripe and green fruit on the fame tree. The great rains detained us fome days at Kefh- ker ; during which a new Maymander ar- rived from Ifpahan, who arrefted the for- mer one for fome fault he had committed on the road. The 2oth, we travelled from Kefhker to the fhore three agatz, and halted a little ; then along the fhore four agarz farther ; and at midnight reached an empty village ; a difagreeabie circumftance, after marching in conftant rain the whole day, which had rendered the rivers almoft impafTable to camels. From the 2ift to the 27th, we advanced along the fhore. The roads were very good. At laft we came to a town called Aftara, where we halted for refrefhment. There is nothing remarkable about this place, except its pleafant fituation. December ift, we reached Siarakent, a large village. And next day Langgara, fituated on the fhore at the mouth of a ri- ver, 1717- TO ISPAHAN. 161 ver, an agatz diftant from the former. And the 3d to Kyzillagatch, five agatz from Langgara. This day we pafled si- long feveral large bridges, over very deep rivers. In great rains, and ftrong norther- ly winds, thefe rivers fwell above their banks, and, fpreading to a great extent round the bridges, render them impaf- fable. The 5th, we travelled five agatz to Tzamachava. 1 was furprifed at the great flocks of water- fowl near this place: fo nu- merous were they that one of our people killed eight geefe at one difcharge. The 7th, we entered the plains of Mu- gan. I defcribed what feemed moft re- markable in this defert, when going fouth- ward, and fhall not recapitulate any thing J formerly obferved. The road was very good. We lodged at the river Bulgara, fix agatz from Tzamachava ; the water of the river is muddy and brackifh. Next day we advanced feven agatz, and lodged again in tents ; for there are no houfes in VOL. I* X this 162 AJOURNEY 1717. this plain, and only pit water, very brack- ifli. On the Qth, we travelled feven agatz to fome fmall huts, beyond the river Kure, which we pafled on a bridge of boats. We paffed this river about a day's journey a- bove this place, in going to Ifpahan, when I made my remarks upon it. Seven agatz from thefe huts ftands a place called Kara- kurody, the laft ftage in the defert, where we lodged on the I ith. The 1 2th, we arrived at Shamachy, five agatz from the laft ftage. Since the time we left this place, it had fuffered grievouf- ly by the plague, which raged here all the preceding fummer. It was now much a- bated, though not quite extinguifhed. This was a difagreeable circumftance, many of our people were fickly, and two of them died of the diftemper ; for the empty houfes, where the Perfians had died, not- withftanding every precaution, particularly fmoking the walls, ftill proved infectious. I 1717. TO ISPAHAN. 163 I was informed, that about feventy thou- fand perfons had been carried off by the peftilence within the laft eight months, in Shamachy and the province of Shirvan. The i Jth, my old acquaintance, Mon- fieur Yeiifky the Dantzicker, whom I for- merly mentioned, came to vifit me. He was fo altered by ficknefs that I fcarce knew him. He told me what difmal ha- vock the plague had made, particularly in his own family. I afked, why he did not retire to the country for better air ? His anfwer was, whither could he fly from, God Almighty ! This I find to be the ge- neral opinion of the Mahometans, both Perfians and Turks. The fame day I had a vifit from Father Backond, the only mif- fionary at prefent in thefe parts, his com- panion, Father Ricard, being dead of the plague. The feafon being now far advanced, it became proper to pitch on fome place for winter- quarters. The terrible peftilence which had prevailed fo long, and with fuch deftruction, i6'4 A JOURNEY deftrudion, greatly detered us from chu- fing this place. The fuperior convenience, however, of it, the prefent abatement of the plague, and chiefly becaufe a province is not obliged to fupport the expences of an ambaflador till he arrives at the capital, and feveral other reafons, determined us to winter at Shamachy. January I5th, 1718, the chan came to town from the country, where he had been all the laft fummer. The 2 1 ft, the ambaflador paid the chan a vifit, which was returned the 251!!. Nothipg material happened during the winter j only we often heard of the bad fuccefs of the Shach's forces, which were fent to Chandahar againft the rebel Mery Mahmut, and of many incurfions into the Periian provinces, made by the mountain- eers who inhabit between the Black and Cafpian Seas. March loth, one of our gentlemen, Monfieur Lopuchin, was fent away by land to Aftrachan, with an elephant and all 1718. TO ISPAHAN. 165 all the horfes. He was efcorted by thirty Ruffian fpldiera, and feme Aftrachan Tar- tars. In his march, between Derbent and Terky, he was attacked by feme hundreds of the mountaineers, called Shaffkalls, who killed one man and two horfes, and wound* ed feveral men and the elephant. Meet- ing, however, with a warm reception, they thought proper to retire, but carried off three of the horfes. The gentleman arrived fafe, without any further misfortune, at Aftrachan. April 1 4th, ftiips, commanded by Captain Rentle, arrived at Niezabatt, in order to tranfport the ambalTador to Aftrachan. He could not, however, proceed immediately to embark, for we were obliged to wait for an anfwer to aft exp'refs, which the chan had defpatched to Ifpahan on affairs of im- portance, which did not return till the end of May. All of us impatiently defired to leave Shamachy before the great heat came on. In the mean time, we diverted our- felves with hunting. I went often to fee tjie 1 66 A JOURNEY 1718. the filk^worms feeding on mulberry leaves. The inhabitants were apprehenfive that the plague would break out again in the fum- mer ; and we had already buried twenty- two of our people fince our arrival on the frontiers of Perfia. On the night of the eight of May, there was fuch flafhes of lightning, as had not happened in the memory of man ; though the night was dark, I could plainly lee the cattle in the adjacent fields, by means of the corufcations ; the lightning was accom- panied with dreadful claps of thunder, which lafted above two hours. CHAP, I 7 i8. TO ISPAHAN. 167 CHAP. VIIL From Shamachy to St Peter/burgh. JUNE 1 6th, we left Shamachy, and in four days arrived fafe at Niezabatt, where we found {hips waiting to receive us. On the 2 1 ft, we oegan to load the veflels with all poffible defpatch, which was foon accomplifhed by the affiftance of fome Rufs foldiers, who had wintered at this place. Since I have mentioned thefe foldiers, I fhall briefly relate how they happened to be on this coaft. The people of Chiva, a territory (fee p. 48.) eaftward from the Cafpian Sea, having feveral 168 A JOURNEY i 7 iS. feveral times robbed and plundered fome caravans of Ruffian merchants going to Bu- charia, his Czarifli Majefty determined to fend a fmall body of regular troops, and fome Coflacks, to demand fatisfaetion for fuch outrages committed in time of peace. For this purpofe, Mr Beckvitz, a captain of- the guards, who was appointed to com- mand in this expedition, repaired to Aftra- chan, in fummer 1716, in order to make all tfye neceflary preparations againft next fpring. Having accordingly embarked his men, provifions, and ammunition, at the proper feafon, he fleered his courfe along the Cafpian Sea, and landed at a place cal- led Krafna-vooda, i. e. red water, as near to Chiva as he conveniently could. This place was barren and uninhabited. Having therefore moored his tranfports, he erected a fmall fort to fecure his retreat, in cafe of accidents. In the mean time, he fent a friendly meflage to the chan of Chiva, to notify his arrival, and to defire that he would furnifh him 1718. TO ISPAHAN. 169 him with provifions and quarters for his men ; for which he offered to pay ready money. The crafty Tartar returned for anfwer, that he might come to Chiva with the greateft fafety, where all his demands mould be granted. At the fame time* fent him a prefent of fruits and frefh provifions, and guides to conduct him on the road, accompanied with the higheft expreffions of refpet to his Gzarifh Majefty. Mr Beckvitz having left about three hundred men in. the fort, to guard the camp and provifionsj proceeded with the reft, and a few field-pieces, towards Chiva. In three or four days he arrived in the neighbourhood of the town, where he was met by feveral of the chiefs, who came with compliments from the chan, and to fettle matters relative to the cantonment of / the foldieis. This particular was difficult to adjuft. Mr Beckvitz infifted, that all his men ihould be quartered in the town, and no- thing but infatuation could have influenced VOL. I. Y him 170 AJOURNEY 1718. him to alter fo prudent a refolution. But the Tartars ftarted many objections againft putting it in execution, and pretended that the chan and themfelves were willing to agree to it, but the people were averfe, and jealous of having fo many armed men lodged within their walls ; and therefore they propofed, as a means of quieting the minds of the people, that he fhould feparate his men, in order to be quartered more con- veniently in the adjacent villages, and that himfelf fhould have lodgings in the town, with a fufficient guard to attend him. This motion was ftrongly oppofed by all the old officers, who looked on it as a ftratagem laid for their deftrudion. And fuch in reality it proved in the end. Mr Beckvitz, deluded by falfe promifes, at laft confented to canton his men. No fooner were they divided into fmall parties, than they were inclofed, and attacked by great numbers of Tartars, and moft of them either killed or taken prifoners, who were afterwards fold for (laves. A few of them 1718. TO ISPAHAN. 171 them taking the alarm, flood to their arms, and made a brave defence for fome time, endeavouring chiefly to regain their camp and mips ; but having a barren defert to pafsj and the Tartar horfe haraffing them day and night, they were at laft obliged to fubmit to fatal neceffity. The imprudence of the general was the fole caufe of all thefe misfortunes ; for, being in no want of provifions or ammunition, had he only kept his men together^ the whole combined power of thefe Tartars could not have pre- vented his regaining the camp and (hipping. The camp was next attacked by the Tar- tars ; but they were repulfed by the garri- fon, which having now intelligence of what had pafied at Chiva, demolimed the fort, reimbarked the men and ftores, and fet fail for Aftrachan. The feafon was now too far advanced to gain that port ; this circumftance, together with hard gales of contrary winds, obliged them to put into Niezabatt, in order to pafs the winter. Here they were hofpitably received by the Per- i 7 2 A JOURN.E Y I7 i8. Perfians ; and the prefence of the ambafla- dor at Shamachy contributed greatly to the relief of thefe poor unfortunate people. Unhappy Beckvitz hitnfelf happened to be taken prifoner. He was fent for to the chan's tent, on fome pretence of bufmefs, where they firft ftruck off his head, then, after venting their" barbarous rage on his dead body, they flayed it, and, having fluffed the ikin with ftraw, placed it, a miferable fpectacle, on one of the city gates. This unfortunate gentleman was the fon of a petty prince, or chief of a tribe in Tzerkefiia, and had been fent to Ruflia in his infancy, as a hoflage for his father's fidelity. Being now on the point of departing from Perfia, called by the Perfians Iran, and alfo Pharfiftan, I fhajl clofe what I have to* offer regarding that country, by giving a lift of the principal officers of ftate who attend that mighty monarch at the megihfs, i. e. public audience of ambafTa- dors ; they fit in the hall of audience ac- cording 1718. TO ISPAHAN. 173 cording to their refpe&ive ranks, and have all of them, on thofe occafions, magnificent capes,' and robes of ftate, kept in the King's wardrobe for that purpofe. 1. The Etmadowlett, prime minifter. 2. SpafTelaar, general in chief. 3. Kurtfy Bafha, general of 1 2,000 men. A. Kular-agafTy, director of the prifons. 5. Tfengy Baflia, general of muf- keteers. 6. Ifhek-agafly Bafha, mafter of ceremonies. 7. Divan Begg, ch'ief juftice. 8. Toptfhy Bafha, mafter of the ordnance. 9 Vaggian Aviz, fecretary of ftate. ' , 10. Merifh-kaz Bafha, grand fal- coner. i j . Dgevedar Bafha, general of the artillery.' 12. I 74 AJOURNEY 1718. 12. The Milachurd Bafha Giloff, mafter of horfe. 13. Milachurd YafTy Bafha, mafter of the field-horfes. 14. Kolopha. 15. Mamalek, comptroller of the houfehold. 1 6. KchafTa, cabinet fecretary. 17. Nazyr Daftar, fteward of the houfehold. 1 8. Vifir Ifpahan, chief magiftrate of Ifpahan. 19. Vifir Kurtfy, general of horfe. 20. Vifir Kule. 21. Chafnadar Bafha, chief treafu- rer. 22. Kaliphar Kafhkar, chief judge in civil affairs. 23. Doroga Taftar, judge of the city. 24. Sachapt Tauchtzy. 25. Sachapt Narvifs, chief aftrolo- ger. 26. Hakim Bafha, chief phyfician. The ! 7 i8. TO ISPAHAN. The following officers attend the Shach wherever he goes. 1. The Ibrahim Aga, chief of the eu- nuchs. 2. Yeufh Bafha, chief of the white eunuchs. 3. Achmet Aga, chief of the black eunuchs. 4. Klitch Kurtfhy, fword-bearer. 5. Tzatyn Bafha, quiver-bearer. 6. Saddach Kurtfhy, bow-bearer. 7. Tfang Kurtfhy, mufket- bearer. 8. Dgid Kurtftiy, dart-bearer. 9. Kalchan Kurtfhy, target-bearer. The following are the chief doctors of the law of Mahomet. 1 . Sadyr Chafla, the fame office in Per- fia as that of the Mufti in Turkey* 2. Sadyr Mammalek. 3. Fazyl. 4. Shach Iflam. 5. Chazy. 6. Mullah Bafha. 7. Mu- 176 7. Mudarafs. 8. Piflinamafh. 9. Mutafhett Baflia. 10. Moaftiam Baflia. Thefe are the principal j befides whom, there are many other officers, too numerous to recite. With the foregoing lift I clofe what I have to fay regarding Perfia. The 26th, we fet fail from Niezabatt with a fair wind at fouth-eaft, which lafted only a few hours ; after which we were becalmed for three days. Tuly 2d, the wind became again fair, and carried us, with a gentle breeze, out of the deep water into foundings ; but turn- ing contrary, we came to anchor in thirty- fathom water, where we lay till the loth, when it blew a very hard gale, which drove us from our anchors out to fea ; and, con- tinuing for two days, brought us again in fight of the Perfian fliore, which was at this time no very agreeable object, The 171$. TO ISPAHAN. 177 The I Jth, the wind chopped about fa- vourable, and fo continued, with little va- riation, till the 1 8th, when we arrived fafe at Aftrachan, to the great joy of all our company. September yth, leaving Aftrachan, we failed up the Volga. Our progrefs, con- trary to the courfe of the river, was very flow and tedious. In calms the boats were drawn up by men, who went upon the banks ; but in hard gales, we were obliged to haul them near the fide, and lie ftill. October I2th, after a voyage of five weeks, we arrived at the town of SaratofF, about eight hundred verft diftant from A- ftrachan. The winter drawing on, pre- vented our farther progrefs by water. We therefore unloaded, and difcharged the boats, being refolved to remain here till th~ fnow fell, when we might proceed by land in fledges. November ift, there had now been a lit- tle fall of fnow, fufficient to fmooth the VOL. I. Z roads, 178 A JOURNEY 1718. roads, and .this day we fet out from SaratofF in fledges. The 3d, we came to a little town called Petrofky, about ninety verft from Saratoff. The 8th, we came to a large town called Penze, ninety verfl from the former. As we advanced to the north, the froft and fnow daily increafed, which made the roads very fmooth and eafy. Before we left this place, a fudden rain obliged us to halt a few days. Here we met with Bri- gadier Kropotoff, who, with fome regi- ments of dragoons, had winter quarters at this place. The i.4th, the froft and fnow returning, we fet out from Penze. The 1 5th, we reached Saranfky, eighty verft from the former. Here we found many Swedifli officers, taken at Poltava, who were well quartered in a plentiful country. The 1 7th, we left Saranfky, and the 21 ft, arrived at Arzamafs, an hundred verft from Saranfky. The 1718. TO ISPAHAN. 179 The 24th, we came to Murum, 360 verft from Saratoff, which I mentioned in going fouthward by water. From Saratoff to Petrofky, the country is fomewhat dry and barren ; but the reft of the country, through which we pafied, is very fruitful, producing all kinds of corn, fine woods, particularly of oaks, interfperfed with many villages ; and the face of the country, con- ftantly varied by plain and gently rifing grounds, affords a moft beautiful profpet. From Murum we came to the town of Wolodimir, an hundred and thirty verft from Murum. This place is large and well peopled, and famous for being for- merly the refidence of a great prince of the fame name. The joth, we arrived fafe at the city of Mofco, an hundred and forty verft from the former, and feven hundred and feventy from Saratoff. December I9th, we proceeded towards St Peterfburgh, where we arrived on the 30th. Nothing material happened during our i8o A JOURNEY 1718, our return through Ruflia, and what was moft remarkable in the country I defcribed in going fouthward. I cannot help taking notice of an extraordinary cafe of one of our people, in an exceffive cold night, The fellow, expecting to baniih all feeling of cold from himfelf, drunk a large quan- tity of fpirits, which produced a drowfmefs, that ended in fleep in an open fledge. On arriving at a village, the perfon was found ftiff, fpeechlefs, and apparently quite dead ; but being carried to a brook hard by, and plunged feveral times in the wa- ter, and then rubbed with inow, and brought into a warm room, with proper regimen he ibon recovered, and was able to proceed next day. I have often obferved, in other inftances, that the ufe of ipiritous liquors in cold weather, is the word of remedies ; for, though they warm at firft, they leave a chilnefs behind them, not to be got clear of for a confiderable time. I have found by experience nothing preferable to weak warm 1718. TO ISPAHAN. warm liquors, mixed with a little fpirits* The Ruffian travellers carefully avoid the exceffive ufe of brandy in ftrong frofts. Thus I have fmifhed my account of a long, tedious, and dangerous journey which lafted for three years, attended with many difficulties, not eafily conceived by thofe who have not travelled the fame road. At our return to St Peterfburgh, we found his Majefty at that place, who, I was informed, was well fatisfied with the conduct of his ambaffador, whofe principal errand was to cultivate and cement amity, and a good correfpondence, between the two crowns of Ruffia and Perfia. Notwithftanding the war with Sweden had continued near twenty years, this ac- tive monarch had not neglected, nor even fufpended, the building and adorning his new capital. During my abfence, the ap- pearances of things were fo changed, that I could fcarce imagine myfelf in the fame place ; fo furprifing was the alteration in fo ihort a time. Befides, this Prince had fit- ted i82 A JOURNEY 1718. ted out a navy of thirty fhips of war, and three hundred gallies : Interprifes which might have been the work of ages, but not fuperior to the fingle induftry and adivity of Peter the Firft. A JOUR- JOURNEY I FROM ST PETERSBURGH IN RUSSIA, T O P E K I N WITH AN EMBASSY FROM HIS IMPERIAL MAJESTY, PETER T,H E FIRST, T O K A M H EMPEROR OF CHINA, IN THE YEAR M.DCC.XIX. Names of the principal perfons who com- pofed the train of the Ambaffador^ Leoff Vaflilovich Ifmayloff. Secretary of the Embafly, Laurence de Lange. S ' c '"^ The Ambaflador's Secretary, Ivan Glazunoff. Gentlemen of the Embafly, Kneaz Alexander Safeckin, Nicolaus de Pauli Kreftitz, Lukian NefterofF, Alexie Divoff, David Grave, The Author of this Journal. Gregory, a Prieft. Interpreters, clerks, a band of mufic, valets, footmen, &c. in all to the number of about fixty perfons ; befides a troop of twenty-five dragoons,, for our efcort from Tobolcfky to Pekin, and back. A JOURNEY, &c. CHAP. I, * From Sf Peferjburgh to Tololfky, the Capital of Siberia. WHEN I arrived at St Peterlburgh from Ifpahan, I met with a very fenfible mortification, on finding that my very worthy friend, Dr Arefkine, was no more ; he died about fix weeks before my arrival. Not long after which^ upon being informed that an embafly was preparing for China, and that his Majefty had nomi- VOL, I f A a nateci 186 A JOURNEY 1719. nated LeofF VafFilovich IfmaylofF, a gentle- man of a family very well known and much refpe&ed in Ruffia, and a captain of the guards, for that employment, I became very defirous of making that journey in his train. Upon my acquainting my very good friend, Artemy Petrovich Valenfky, with rny defire, he, without lofs of time, recom- mended me to LeofF Vaffilovich IfmaylofF, the appointed ambafFador, in fuch a man- ner as- produced, on all occafions, marks of friendfhip and regard for me, as well du- ring the journey, as alfo after our re- turn, until he died in 1736. The time between my return from If- pahan and my fetting out for Pekin, I fpent. with much fatisfa&ion with my friends and acquaintance at St Peterfburgh. Among whom I efteemed as fuch, not on- ly feveral worthy perfons of my own countrymen, as well in trade as in the fer- vice of his Majefty ; but alfo not a few of the Ruffian gentry, to whom I became known ijig. T O P E K I N. 187 known on occanon of my journey to Per- fia, and of whom I found many to be per- ions of much worth and honour. At length the prefents for the Emperor of China being got ready, as well as the ambafladoi's defpatches, I fet out from St Peterfburgh the i4th of July, 1719, in. company with Meffieurs Lange and Grave, attended by a few fervants ; the fir ft was a native of Sweden, and the other of Cour- land. We travelled to the city of Mofco in fmall parties, the more eafily to procure poft-horfes. The weather being very hot obliged us to make fhort ftages, confining us moflly to the mornings and evenings. Having in my Perfian journal defcribed what is moft remarkable on this road, I have nothing to add to what I have there obferved. Nothing material happened during our journey to Mofco, where we arrived on the 3oth of Julyj and joined the ambalTa- dor, who had arrived there two days be- fore, having pa (Ted us on the road. We took A JOURNEY 1719. took up our lodgings at the houfe of Mr Belayof, near the triumphal arch. , Here we fpent five weeks in preparing barks to go by water to Cazan, and neceflaries for fo long and unfrequented a road. This interval we pafled very agreeably, being invited to all the entertainments the place afforded. September Qth, having {hipped our bag- gage, and prepared every thing for our departure, we went ourfelves on board ; and, after firing nine guns, rowed down the river Mofco. There is a fhorter way from Mofco to Siberia through Yaro- flave ; but, as we were incumbered with heavy baggage, confifting chiefly of pre- fents from his Majefty to the Emperor of China, it was thought beft to proceed as far as poflible by water. Accordingly, we continued our courfe down the Mofco river to Kolumna, then into the river Ocka ; and, paffing Pere- flave-Refanfky, Murum, and other towns of lefs note, we arrived at Nifhna-Novogo* rod, 1719. TO P E fc I N. 189 rod, fituated to the right hand, on a high bank of the Ocka, at its confluence with the Volga. Leaving Nifhna, we entered the river Volga, and proceeded towards Cazan. After a voyage of fix weeks we arrived at Cazan on the 2oth of October. We intended to have continued our route far- ther down the Volga to the river Kama, which falls into the Volga about fixty verft below Cazan, and then up the Kama to Solikamfky ; but the advancement of the feafon, and the froft coming on apace, made us refolve to remain at Cazan till the winter fet in, left we fhould run the ha- zard of being frozen up near fome unin- habited place on the Kama. In confequence of this refolution, the barks were difcharged, and we took up our lodgings in the city. Here I found many of my old friends and acquaintance, parti- cularly the Swedifh officers ; among others, General Hamilton, General Rofen, and Baron Wachmaiter, who ftill .remained prifoners 190 A JOURNEY 1719. prifoners of war, regretting the hard fate of their long captivity. We ftaid here a- bout five weeks, waiting for the fnow fal- ling to fmooth the roads, and in the mean time were employed in preparing fledges, and other neceflaries for our journey. Ha- ving formerly made my remarks on this route, and particularly on Cazan and its neighbourhood, I fhall now purfue our journey towards Siberia. November 24th, we fent off the heavy baggage ; but Monfieur Ifmayloff, with a few of the gentlemen, remained fome days longer, becaufe it was difagreeable travel- ling on rough roads with loaded fledges. At laft, on the 28th, late in the night, the ambafTador quitted Cazan, keeping to the north-eaftward. There being many villa- ges on the road, we changed horfes as often as occafion required. The 29th, we travelled through woods, confiding chiefly of tall oaks, fir, and birch. This part of the country is very fruitful, producing plenty of cattle, corn, and 1719. T P E K I N. 191 and honey. The hives are not made like thofe in England ; the inhabitants take the trunk of a lime-tree, afpin, or any {"oft wood, of about five or fix feet long ; ha- ving fcooped it hollow, they make a large aperture in one fide, about a foot in length and four inches broad ; they then fix crofs rods within the trunk for the bees to build upon, and, having done this, clofe up the place carefully with a board, leaving fmall notches for the bees to go in and out. Thefe hives are planted in proper places, at the fide of a wood, and tied to a tree with ftrong wythes, to prevent their being deftroyed by the bears, who are great de- vourers of honey. The wax and honey exported yearly from Cazan make a very confiderable article of trade. I have feen above an hundred hives near one village, and was informed, that they have a me- thod of extracting the honey and wax without killing the bees, which would cer- tainly be worth knowing ; but I was told it fo indiftinctly, that I could not under- ftand A JOURNEY 1719, ftand it, and had no opportunity of feeing it practifed. The villages through which we pafled were moftly inhabited by the Tzeremifh and Tzoowafti Tartars, whom 1 have for- merly mentioned. The three following days the roads were rough and narrow, ly- ing through dark woods, interfperfed with fome villages and corn-fields. We pafled the Ick and feveral fmaller rivers, and then the Viatka, a pretty large one ; all which ^ifcharge themfelves into the Kama. After a tedious journey of fix days we came to a fmall town called Klinof, or more commonly Viatka, from the river of that name running near it. The fituation of this place is very pleafant, having round it corn-fields and fine pafture ; and the ri- vers in the neighbourhood abounding with great variety of fifh. The country about Klinof is reckoned fo proper pafturage for fheep, that his Ma- jefly ordered fome thoufands of German iheep, moft efteemed for their wool, to be bought 1719- TO P E K I N. 193 bought and fent thither, with a view to eftablifh a manufactory at this place for clothing his army. He alfo caufed a Ger- man ihepherd to be engaged in his fervice, who is fettled here, and enjoys a confider- able falary. The flocks are already fo nu- merous, that I am perfuaded they will in time anfwer the end propofed. A thou- fand other inftances might be produced of the unbounded genius of this great and ac- tive Prince, who fpares no expence, and overlooks nothing that can contribute ei- ther to the honour or advantage of his empire. 1 cannot omit another feemingly inconfiderable article ; I mean pump-lea- ther. This commodity was formerly brought from England and Holland at no fmall charge ; to fave which, his Majefty gave orders to engage an Englim tanner for a certain number of years, whom he fent to Cazan, where the beft hides are, to teach the natives the art of drefiing them. This fcheme has fully anfwered the end in view, and produced abundance, not only VOL. I. B b f 194 A JOURNEY 1719, of pump-leather, but of every other kind of leather whereof that country hath any need. There being no verft-pofts on this, tho' on mofl other roads in Ruflia, I compute the diftance between Cazan and Klinof to be about five hundred verft ; each verft meafures one thoufand one hundred and fixty-fix yards and two feet Englifh. Here 1 met with feveral Swedifh officers, who pafTed a folitary life in a pleafant and plen- tiful country. We halted one day to re- frefh ourfelves ; ana the next, being the 5th of December, we left the baggage to follow leifurely, and fet out again toward Solikamlky. On the yth, we reached Kay-gorod, a fmall town. We perceived the cold becoming daily more intenfe as we proceeded northward along the banks of the Kama. The 8th, we quitted Kay-gorod in a ve- hement cold. Though there was little wind, and a thick fog, the froft continued fo penetrating, that feveral of our people, who 1719- T P E K I N. 195 who were moft expofed, had their fingers and toes frozen. Moft of them recovered by the common method of rubbing the numbed parts with fnow ; but, had we not halted from time to time at -villages to let them warm themfelves, they muft have perifhed by cold. On the gth, we arrived at the town of Solikamfky, derived from Sole fait and Kama the river, on the banks of which it is fituated. Our arrival was a moft agreeable circumftance, as the pier- cing froft ftill prevailed.. Solikamfky is a large and populous town, and the capital of a province of that name ; which is at prefent annexed to the government of Siberia. Its fitua- tion is very pleafant, upon the eaftern bank of the Kama. This river is of great fame in thefe parts of the world. It rifes far .to the north, and in its courfe receives the Parma, Pilva, Koyva, and many other ri- vers, which together form a mighty ftream, very nearly equal to the Volga, into which it difcharges itfelf, about fixty verft beloiv the I 9 6 A JOURNEY i 7 ig. the city of Cazan, and lofes its name. Its long courfe to the fouth-weft is now turned fliort, by the current of the Volga, and carried toward the fouth-eaft. The Kama is well flored with variety of excellent fifh. On the banks are fine corn-fields and paf- ture grounds, but often interrupted by thick woods, efpecially to the north. Thefe woods are (locked with different kinds of game, and wild beafts, natural to the cli- mate. Solikamfky is famous for having many fait- pits in its neighbourhood, the property of my worthy friend Baron Stroganof, by virtue of a grant from his Majefty. The Baron has brought thefe works to fuch per- fection, that he is able to ferve all Ruffia with fait, and could befides furnifh a con- fiderable quantity for exportation, were there any demand. The fait is of a brown- sfh colour, and very good of the kind. The common method of procuring this fait is as follows : They dig pits in the earth till they come to the falt-rock, which feems 1719* TO P E K I N. 197 feems to lie in thefe parts at a certain dif- tance from the furface, as coals do in other places of the world. When the pit is fi- nimed, it is naturally, and of courfe, filled with water ; which, {landing for a conve- nient time, till it is fufficiently impregna- ted with the fait, is then drawn out with pumps and other engines, and put into large iron caldrons, where it is boiled to a proper confidence ; when, the water being evaporated, the fait is left upon the bottom. I was informed of another curious and extraordinary procefs, by which they draw fait- water from a frefli- water river, which I cannot omit taking notice of. In the ri- vers near this place there is a mixture of falt-water arifing from the fprings, which either have their fource in the falt-rocks, or run through them. It is the bufmefs of the inhabitants to difcover the places where thefe fprings empty themfelves into the ri- vers, which they do by diving, or fome other manner ; having done this, they make A JOURNEY make a large frame of ftrong thick balks or beams joined very clofe, about fifteen or twenty feet fquare, and of depth enough to reach the bottom of the river, while part of it remains above the furface ; when the ice is very ftrong, they fink this ma- chine into the river, over the place where the fait fpring iffues, and drive ftrong piles of wood all around, to hinder its being forced from this pofition by the current, or by floating ice in the end of winter. Du- ring the winter, they draw out all the water, mud, and fand, contained within the machine, and fink it ftill deeper un- til it hath penetrated the bottom of the channel of the river, and prevented all further communication between it and the fait fpring. The frame is now filled on- ly with the falt-water, ifluing from the fpring, from whence it is drawn, and the fait extracted, as formerly defcribed. However tedious and expenfive this procefs may feem, thefe people perform it ' xvith great readinefs and eafej and, what is ftill 1719. TO P E K I N. ftill more extraordinary, without regular inftruction in any art fubfervient to that purpofe, but by the mere force of natural genius. The Baron has a great number of hands conftantly employed in this fervice. And the woods for fewel are inexhauf- tible. When the fait is made, it is laid up in granaries, till the feafon of Iran/porting it to Mofco, St Peterfburgh, and other pla- ces. The barks for this purpofe, called by the Ruffians lodia, are of a conftru&ion fomewhat uncommon. I have feen fome of them longer and broader than any firft rate man of war in England, and not one iron nail in the whole fabric. All of them are flat-bottomed, having one tall tree for a maft, and a fail of light canvafs in pro- portion. To manage this mighty machine, fix or eight hundred men are neceflary. The rudder is nearly as long as the bark, and fo unwieldy, that fometimes it requires forty or fifty men to fleer it. They load thefe fhips very deep, and let them float down A JOURNEY 1719. down the Kama into the Volga ; where, if the wind is not favourable, they are o- bliged to draw them, againft the ftream, to the place of their deftination. I cannot leave Solikamiky without men- tioning the rich iron-mines in the country adjacent, at Kathenaburg, and other places of that diftricT:, which produce iron, equal perhaps in quality to the beft in the world. Thefe works have of late been brought to great perfection, by the fkill and indefati- gable induftry of Mr Demidof, a native of Ruffia, enabled and encouraged to carry them on by a beneficial grant from his Ma- jefty, who is always ready to affift and pro- tect thofe who, by their ingenuity, form projects to the advantage of his country. Thefe works, I am informed, are ftill capable of great improvement. The ore is very good, and rifes in many places to the very furface of the earth, and may be dug at a fmall expence. As for wood to fmelt it, no place in the world can have greater advantage. Befides, all the machines may be 1719- TO P E K I N. Be driven by water ; and there is an eafy communication by the rivers to St Peterf- burgh, for exportation, and to many other parts of Ruffia, for inland confumption. In thefe mines are often found magnets of various fizes. I have feen fome of them very large, and of high virtue. There are feveral other iron-works in Ruffia ; for inftance, at Tula, Olonhz,' and other places ; but the metal is of an infe- rior quality to that of Siberia. Befides thefe of iron, there are alfo rich mines of excel- lent copper at this place, which, being late- ly difcovered, are capable of great improve- ment. The copper- ore alfo rifes to the very furface. In the neighbourhood of Solikamlky is found the foffil called afbeftos ; of which is made a kind of cloth like linen, that may be put into the fire, and taken out again, unconfumed. This cloth was known a- mong the ancients, and ufed by them on fe- veral occafions. At prefent, it goes by the name of the incornbuftible linen. VOL. I. C c The 202 A JOURNEY The afbeftos, like many both curious and ufeful difcoveries, was found out by mere accident in thefe parts. 1 fhall briefly relate in what manner : A certain huntfman being about te load his fowling-piece, and wanting wadding, obferved a great flone in. the woods, which Teemed to have fome flakes upon it like loofe threads ; he foon found that, by rubbing, it turned into a foft downy fu'^ftance fit for his ufe : He therefore filled his pocket with it ; but, having fired his piece, was furprifed to fee that the gun- powder had no effect upon the wadding. This raifed his curiofity fo far, that he kindled a fire on purpofe, into which he put the albeftos ; but ftill took it out en- tire^jand of the fame ufe as formerly. This experiment fo frightened the poor fportf- man, that he imagined the devil had ta- ken pofleffion of the fofiil. On return- ing home, he narrated what had happened to the prieft of the parifh, who, amazed at the relation, repeated it fo frequently, that at laft he told it to a perfon who was ao quainte^ TO P E K I N. 203 quainted with that quality peculiar to the afbeftos ; and, on examination, found the flakes to be that foffil. The weather is much colder at Solikam- fky than at other places fituated feveral de- grees nearer to the north pole. Perhaps its great diftance from any part of the o- cean may be partly the caufe of the excef- five cold, which fometimes prevails. December loth, the ambaffador took poft-horfes, and fet out for Tobolfky, lea- ving the baggage to follow as fhould be moft convenient. About midnight we came to a village called Martinfky ; here having changed horfes, we foon reached the moun- tains named Verchaturfky-gory, where we found the fnow very deep, and a ftrong froft ftill continued. We kept on our jour- ney, afcending and defcending thefe high and fteep mountains for the fpace of fifteen hours. In fuch of the valleys as are fit for culture, are found Ruffian villages well peopled. And, where the woods are cue down, 204 A JOURNEY 1719. down, there appeared a beautiful landfcape, even at this bleak feafon. Thefe mountains divide Ruflia from Si- beria. They run in a ridge from north to focth, inclining a liule to the eaft and weft of thefe points. They are quite covered with wood, confiding of tall firs of differ- ent kinds, larixes, birch, and other trees natural to the climate ; and abound with game, and various kinds of wild beafts. Their length, from north to fouth, I can- not afcertain ; but compute their breadth, where we palled, to be about forty Englifh miles. But they are not near fo high as the mountains I have feen in Perfia, and other parts of the world. Having pafled thefe mountains, we de- fcended, on the i ith, into a country finely varied with plains and rifing grounds, in- terfperfed with woods, villages, corn-fields, and pafturage ; and, in the evening, reach- ed the town called Verchaturia, from verch, which fignifies high, and Tura the name of the river on which the town ftands. This river 1719- T P E K I N. 205 river is navigable, and runs to the eaft till it empties itfelf into the Tobol. Vercha- turia is pleafamly fituated upon a rifing ground, and fortified with a ditch and pal- lifades. It is governed by a commandant, who has under him a garrifon, confifting of fome regular troops and Coflacks. What makes Verchaturia confiderable, is its being a frontier town, and commanding the only entry from Ruffia into Siberia. Here is a cuftom-houfe, where all merchants are obli- ged to make entry of what fums of money or merchandife they carry into Siberia, or from Siberia into Ruflia ; on all which is charged a duty of ten per cent, to his Ma- jefty. Though this impoft may appear high, it is really very moderate, confider- ing the profits which the trade yields, and it extends only to the money to be employ- ed in traffic ; for every merchant is allow- ed a certain fum for his expences, free of all duty. The country adjacent to Verchaturia is inhabited by a race of people calLed Vo- gullitz, 06 AJOURNEY gullitz, who differ in language, drefs, and manners* from any nation I ever faw. Their features and perfons have a refem- blance of the Tzoowafliians near Cazan. They have fome obfcure notions of the Deity, and are very fond of a kind of wi- zards called Shamans, whom they hold in great efteem. I fhall have occafion to fpeak more fully of thefe Shamans afterwards. The Vogullitz know nothing of agricul- ture, but live in huts in the woods, and fubfift by hunting and fifhing. They are an honeft inofFenfive people; but not very- numerous ; arifing, perhaps, from their unfocial and uncomfortable manner of life. The Archbifhop of Tobolfky hath of late, by fc his pious labours, converted many of them to Chriftianity ; who now begin to build houfes, and cultivate fome appear- ance of fociety ; and probably, in time, the reft will follow fo laudable an example. This, however, will depend much on the encouragement they meet with, from the clergy and fub-governours of provinces. I vifited 1719. TO P E K 1 N. 2.97 vifited them as often as any opportunity offered, both in their huts and houfes, and endeavoured to procure fome information about their original, or from whence they came to fettle in thefe northern parts, but could obtain nothing fatisfa&ory on either of thefe heads. Before we enter Siberia, it will not be perhaps improper to give a fhort account of the fingular manner in which this moft extenfive country was difcovered by the Ruffians. About the beginning of the laft century, a certain Don-CorTack, named Yarmak Ti- motheovitz, being obliged, by fome acci- dent, to leave his native country, and ha- ving no means pf fubfiftence, he, with a few accomplices, betook themfelves to rob- bing on the highways? He foon became famous and powerful ; for he robbed only the rich ; and, by a generofity uncommon in fuch a character, liberally beftowed to fuch as were in want. He never killed, nor even hurt any perfon, unlefs compelled to 208 A JOURNEY to fuch outrages in his own defence. This behaviour fo raifed his reputation, that all the idle fellows in the country enlifted themfelves in his gang, proud to follow fo brave and enterprifmg a leader. He became at laft fo troublefome, that the governours of the fouthern provinces fent out troops to apprehend him ; but, being previoufly informed of the defign, he withdrew from the land, and procuring boats upon the Volga, commenced pirate on that river. Being attacked here alfo, he was forced to crofs the Cafpian Sea, and flicker himfelf on the Perfian fhore, where he pafTed fome time under the difguife of a merchant. Being again discovered, he was obliged, by the Perfians, to quit their coaft : And now his only refuge was to return to the Vol- ga, where he behaved with great circum- fpection, often lurking in woods and villa- ges ; and, being in no want of money, paid the inhabitants liberally for every thing he needed. Forefeeing, however, that fuch a numerous gang could not be long conceal- ed, TO P E K I N. 209 ed, he took the refolution of leaving the Volga, and fleered his courfe up the river Kama, at that time little frequented by the Ruffians, or any other nation ; here he hoped to find, at leaft, a fafe retreat during the winter. ^Yarmak, therefore, with his followers, amounting to the number of two Jhundred, continued their voyage up the Kama, till they were flopped by the ice, at no great diftance from a large vil- lage, now belonging to Baron Stroganof. The inhabitants were alarmed at the fight of fo many armed men, whom they were not able to oppofe, and therefore gave them an hofpitable reception. Yarmak demanded only provifions and winter-quarters for his money, promiiing to leave them unmo- lefted next fpring. In confequence of this declaration, he and his followers pafled the winter very quietly in this remote place ; afraid, however, at the approach of fum- mer, of being difcovered by the govern- ment, and uncertain what courfe to fteer ; it was at laft determined to crofs the moun- VOL. I. D d tains 2io A JOURNEY 1719. tains of Verchaturia, and go to the eaft- ward, in hopes of finding fome inhabited country, or at lead a fafe retreat. Having patted the mountains, they arri- ved at the river Tur ; and, rinding it na- vigable, foon made a fufficient number of canoes for the whole gang. After rowing for fome days down the Tur, they difco- vered feveral villages of Mahometan Tar- tars, who were furprifed at the fight of fuch a number of ftrangers, of whom they had before never fo much as heard. Yar- mak having got what intelligence he could procure of the fituation and government of the country, purfued his voyage to the ri- ver Tobol, where he found the towns po- pulous, and the land well cultivated. His approach alarmed the King of the Tartars, who aflembled a numerous body of horfe and foot, armed with bows and arrows, lances, and other fuch weapons, with whom our adventurer had many fkirmifhes, and defeated great multitudes, by means of his fire-arms, which had never before been known 1719- T -O P E K I N. 211 known in thefe parts* The poor Tartars were as much amazed and terrified, at the fight of the Ruffians and their arms,- as the inhabitants of Mexico on the arrival of the Spaniards in America, to which Siberia may, in many refpedls, be compared. Yarmak, finding his enemies daily more numerous the nearer he approached the re- fidence of the Tartar King ; having alfo loft many of his men, in continual encoun- ters, and fpent the greateft part of his am- munition ; knowing, befides, of no place of fafety, where he might pafs the winter, which is both long and fevere in this quar- ter ; at laft determined to retreat. He therefore fteered his'courfe to the weft, up the Tobol and Tur rivers. The furious Tartars gave him no reft, but harafled him perpetually from the banks. ,He himfelf and few more efcaped, with a confiderable booty, and returned to the village, where they wintered the preceding year. The inhabitants, on feeing the rich furs and o* ther fpoils, gave them a welcome reception. And 212 AJOURNEY 1719. And Yarmak did not forget to difpenfe his favours liberally among thofe who had en- tertained him in his diftrefs, when- he fled from jurtice. Our adventurer had now time to reflect on his miferabie circumltances. He confir -dered, that his lurking in thefe parts, tho* remo'te from any town, could not be long a fecret : To make another attempt againft the Tartars with a handful of men, ill pro- vided with arms and ammunition, might 1 perhaps be ruinous, and certainly unfuc- cefsful. He therefore refolved to fubmit himfelf to his-Majefty's clemency, in hopes of obtaining a gracious pardon for himfelf and his accomplices, on condition of point- ing out the way to a rich and eafy conqueft of a country which he had lately difcover- ed. The propofal was made at court by a friend, and was of too great importance to be ne^U'dled. In (hort, Yatmak was brought to Mofco, under a fafe conduct, where he communicated the whole affair. He begged his Majefty's pardon, andafked a 1719- T O P E K I N. 213 p. certain number of troops, which he pro- mifed to lead to a glorious conqueft. His Majefty granted him a pardon, approved of the expedition, and gave immediate orders for the troops to attend him. They march- ed to Solikamfky, where they pafled the winter in making preparations for the en- terpnfe, which was to be undertaken in the fpring. During this interval, Yarmak behaved with furprifing prudence and activity, and difcovered himfelf to be a perfon of uncom- mon genius. He collected fuch of his for- mer followers as remained, and formed them into a company, in whom he could confide on all occafions. At the proper feafon, the troops fet out towards Siberia. On coming into the in- habited part of the country, they found many ftraggling parties of Tartars in arms, ready to oppofe them, and a number of boats upon the rivers, full of armed men. The King of the Tartars himfelf was on board one of thefe veflels. This expedition was 2i 4 AJOURNEY 1719, was of fhort duration ; and, in the iflue, fully anfwered the expectation of the Ruf- fians. I cannot omit a few particulars of the laft action. The Tartars in the boats, being purfued by the Ruffians, a battle en- fued on the river Irtifh. Yarmak obfer- ving the King's barge, ordered his crew to board her ; which he endeavouring to do at the head of his men, jumped fliort, fell into the river, and was drowned, to the great grief of all his followers. Thus fell poor Yarmak ! Notwithftanding this mif- fortune, the Ruffians gained a complete victory. The brave King of the Tartars loft his life in the action. His fon, and the reft of the royal family, were taken prifoners, and fent to Mofco, where they were honourably received by the Czar, and treated according to their quality. The prince had an extenfive property granted him in Ruffia, which the family enjoys to this day, together with the title of Sibirfky Czarevitz or Prince of Siberia ; which, I believe, is a more generous treatment of the 1719. TO P E K I N. 2IJ the conquered than any of the mighty mo- narchs of Peru or Mexico, or any of their lineage, have experienced. December nth, we left Verchaturia, in deep fnow. The cold was exceflive, and the Iky clear. Next day, we came to a large village, having a few of the Vogullitz Tartars in the neighbourhood ; and, the 1 3th, arrived at the town of Epantfhin. From Vercha- turia to this place the country is moftly covered with woods. About the villages there are large plains, for corn or paflu- rage. The cattle are in good condition. The horfes, particularly, being of the Tar- tar breed, are larger, and better fhaped, than ordinary, and fit for any ufe. Epantfhin is but a imall place, fortified with a ditch and pallifades, and defended by a few foldiers in garrifon. This place is fometimes alarmed with incurfions of the Tartars, called Koflatfhy-Orda, and Kara- Kalpacks ; but the Ruffians have of late fo fortified their frontiers, that thefe rovers appear appear feldomer than formerly. Both thefe tribes are Mahometans, live always in tents, and fpread themfelves, with their flocks, in the great clefert. Both are very numerous, and own fubje&ion to different chiefs, whom they call Batteer, which fig- nifies a hero. Thefe are chofen by them- felves, and are the mod famous among them for their abilities in military exploits. They are at continual war with the Kal- mucks, who inhabit along the Volga, and with all their other neighbours. They are not able to (land againft regular troops ; and, when attacked by them, retire into the wide defert, with their families and cattle, whither none, but people accuftom- ed to their manner of life, can follow them. The country of. the Kara- Kal packs, or Black-Caps, io called from a kind of caps they commonly wear, turned up with black lamb-fldns, lies to the fouth-weft, towards the Volga. That of the KoiTatmy- Orda extends to the fouth-eaft, as far as the 1719. TO P E K I N. 217 the river Irtifli. The courfe of this river 1 fhall have occafion to mention after- wards. The 1 4th, we came to a pretty large town, called Tumen, fituated upon the north bank of the river Tuma, from whence the place takes its name. The banks of the Tuma are high and fteep. There is a very convenient wooden bridge at this place. The Tuma has its fource fat- to the weft, and, in its courfe, is augment- ed by the Tura, and feveral other rivers. It continues to run to the eaft, till meeting with the Tobol, it lofes itfelf and name. The country between Epantfhin and Tumen begins to be more open, and better peopled, than that weftward of thefe pla- ces. For, betides the Ruffians, who make the greateft part of the inhabitants, we meet with feveral villages inhabited by the defcendents of the ancient Mahometans, who were natives of thefe places. Thefe Tartars fubfift by agriculture, and pafs their lives without care or difturbance, in the * I; E e free i8 A JOURNEY 1719. free exercife of their religion, and other privileges. Tumen is a pretty neat place, and well fortified. The ftreets are fpacious, and the houfes built in a ftraight line. The adja- cent country is covered with fine woods, interfperfed with villages, corn-fields, arid pafturage ; and provifioris of all kinds are very plentiful. The merchants of this place have a confiderable trade in furs, particu- larly the fkins of foxes and fquirrels j which, indeed, are not fo valuable here as they are to the eaftward. Early on the ijth, we left this place, keeping on our courfe along the banks of the Tuma, till we arrived at the river To- bol, which we crofled, and proceeded along the eaftern bank, through a fine country, and well peopled. Though the froft ftill continued flrong, it was not near fo vio- lent and piercing as about Solikamfky 5 which may proceed from the woods being Cut down, and the country cultivated. On the other fide of the river, indeed, the face of T P E K I N. 419 of the country appeared flat and morafly, abounding with tall and dark woods. The 1 6th, about noon, we were in fight of the city of Tobolfky, though diftant from us about twenty Englifh miles. It (lands upon a very high bank of the To- bol. The walls are white, and the crofles and cupolas of the churches guildec^, and make a very fine appearance. About two o'clock we arrived fafe at the city of To- bolfky, the capital of this mighty pro- vince, and the refidence of the governour. We lodged in the broad-ftreet, leading to the governour's palace, and the courts of juftice. We travelled between Tumen and To- bolfky, about two hundred and fifty verft, in the fpace of thirty hours. Sledges are the moft fimple and convenient machines for travelling on fnow that can be imagi- ned. And the perfon in the fledge may either fit, or lie along upon the couch, ac- cording to his inclination, CHAP. $20 A JOURNEY 1.719, C HA P. II. Occurrences at Tobolfky^ Obfervations* on the Kalmucks, &c. and Jour- ney continued to Tomfky. TOBOLSKY is fituated in latitude fifty- eight degrees forty minutes north, at $he conflux of the Irtim and Tobol. From this laft the city has its name. Both thefe rivers are navigable for feveral hundred miles above this place. The Irtim, after receiving the Tobol, becomes a noble flream, and difcharges itfelf into the Oby. This fituation was chofen by the Ruffians, both for its ftrength and beauty. Formerly the Tartar princes had their abode at q. place 1719. TO P E K I N. place about thirty verft fouth from Tobol- iky, which is now neglected and ruinous. Toboliky is fortified with a ftrong brick- wall, having fquare towers and baftions at proper diftances, and is well furniflied with military ftores. Within the town ftand the governour's palace, courts of juftice, feve- ral churches built of brick, particularly a large cathedral, and the palace of the arch- bifhop. From the walls you have a very extenfive profpecl: of a fine country, efpe- cially to the fouth. To the weft the land is alfo flat, and overgrown with tall woods. The inhabitants are chiefly Ruffians, of dif- ferent profeffions ; many of them are mer- chants, and very rich, by the profitable trade they carry on to the borders of Chi- na, and many places of their own country. Thefe live moftly upon the hill. Under the hill, in the fuburbs, along the banks of the river, are feveral large ftreets, called the Tartar- ftreets, occupied by the remains of the ancient inhabitants of thefe parts. Here, as at other places, thefe people enjoy the A JOURNEY 1719; the free exerclfe of their religion, and the privileges of trade. They refemble, in their perfons, religion, language, and manners, the Tartars of Cazan and Aftra- chan. Their houfes are very cleanly. They are very courteous to ftrangers, and ef- teemed honeft ; on which account they get great credit in their commercial affairs. Befides the fortification formerly mention- ed about the town, the whole fuburbs are furrounded with a ditch and pallifades. When we were at Tobollky, Siberia was fuperintended by Mr Petrof Solovoy, vicc- governour, a perfon well acquainted with the bufmefs of the government, and a Gap- tain of the guards. The former governour, Kneaz Gagarin, had incurred his Majefty's difpleafure, and was recalled ; and his fuc- ceflbr, Kneaz Alexie Michaylovitz Cher- kafky, a nobleman worthy of fuch an im- portant truft, was not yet arrived. As, in moft other towns through which we pafTed, we found here many Swedifh pfficers of diftinclion. Among others, 1719. T O P E K I N. 223 Monfieur Dittmar, formerly fecretary to Charles XII. King of Sweden. He was a native of Livonia, and equally efteemed for his probity and capacity. He was much refpe&ed by the late governour, who, in- deed, was a friend to all thefe unfortunate gentlemen. They were allowed to walk about at large, a-hunting or fifhing, and even permitted to travel to other places, to vifit their countrymen. For my part, I think the greateft favour his Majefty fhew- ed thefe prifoners, was the cantoning them in thefe parts, where they may live well at a fmall expence, and enjoy all the liberty that perfons in their circumftances can ex- pect. I cannot but obferve, that .the Swedifh prifoners, difperfed in mofl of the towns in this country, contributed not a little to the civilizing the inhabitants of thefe fliftant regions, as they were the means of intro- ducing feveral ufeful arts, which were al- xnoft unknown before their arrival. Many A JOURNEY 1719, Many of the officers, being gentlemen of liberal education, the better to fupport their tedious capitivity, devoted their time to the ftudy of the more agreeable and en- tertaining parts of fcience, particularly mu- fic and painting ; wherein fome of them attained to great perfe&ion. I was prefent at feveral of their concerts, and was not a little furprifed to find fuch harmony, and variety of mufical inftruments, in this part of the world. They fometimes amufed themfelves with teaching young gentlemen and ladies the French and German languages, mufic$ dancing, and other fimilar accomplifhrnents; whereby they gained many friends among the people of diftinction ; a circumftance, to men in their fituation,both honourable and ufeful. In Tobolfky there are always about five or fix thoufand regular troops, horfe and foot, befides a number of irregulars. Thefe troops, added to the natural ftrength of the place, effectually fecure it from any attacks of the neighbouring Tartars. 1719. TO P E K I N. 225 The woods and fields about Tobolfky are ftored with all kinds of game natural to the climate ; fuch as the coq-limoge, coq-bruiere, and gilinots ; the laft are a- bout the fize of a partridge, their flefh is white, and very agreeable. There is ano- ther kind of thefe gilinots, fomewhat larger, with rough feet, which, in the winter, turn white as a dove. Alfo the common partridge, which, on the approach of win- ter, flies off to more temperate climates ; wood-cocks, a great variety of fnipes, which fly off in autumn, after having hatched their young. As for water-fowl, no country in the world can produce fuch numbers, and variety ; they are alfo birds of paflage. In my Perfian journal, I gave an account of the vaft flocks of thefe fowls on the fhores of the Cafpian Sea. Here alfo you meet with feveral kinds of fmall birds, about the fize of a lark, par- ticularly thofe called fnow-birds. They come to Siberia in vaft flocks in autumn, and re- main till the fpring, when they difappear. VOL. I. F f Many 226 AJOURNEY 1719, Many of them are white as fnow, fome fpeckled, apd others all over brown. They are reckoned a very fine and delicious difli. I obferved another very pretty bird, a- bout the fize of a thrufli, having beautiful red and yellow feathers in the wings and tail, with a tuft of brown feathers on its head, which it raifes at pleafure. Thefe are alfo birds of paflage ; and, as they breed no where in Europe or Afia that I know of, perhaps both thefe and the fnow- birds may come to Siberia from the north- ern parts of America. This conjecture will appear not improbable, when it is con- fidered, that thefe birds are of a hardy na- ture, and the flight not io far as is generally imagined. In the woods are various kinds of wild beafts ; fuch as bears, wolves, lynxes, fe- veral forts of foxes, fquirrels, ermins, fa- bles, martins, and rofio- macks, called feel- frefs by the Germans. The furs are better of their kinds than thofe of any other country. The ermins commonly burrow- in I 7 i9- TO P E K I N. 227 in the open fields, and are caught in traps baited with a bit of flefh ; this is done on- ly in the winter, when they are altogether white, and the fur mod valuable. In fum- mer moft of thefe animals turn brown, when they are not killed, becaufe, at this feafon, the fur is of little ufe. There are alfo ottars in the rivers and lakes, whofe fkins yield a confiderable profit. Indeed, furs of all forts, in this country, are very profitable. At prefent, few fables are caught in this neighbourhood ; it is faid they fly from fmoke, which, perhaps, is partly true; yet I am apt to believe, that thefe poor a- nimals are chafed away towards the north, to the wild woods, on account of the high value of their (kins. The woods of Siberia abound alfo with venifon of feveral forts ; as elk, rain- deer, roe-buck, together with an incredible num- ber of hares, which change their colour, from brown in fummer to white in winter. The hares are generally caught by the country people in toils, more on account of 228 A JOURNEY 1719. of their {kins than their ficfli, of which they make but little ufe. The fkins are bought by the merchants, and fent, in great quantities to St Peterfburgh, and other ports; in order to be exported to England, Holland, and other countries, where they are chiefly manufactured into hats. Having defcribed the land animals, I fhall now give fome account of the fifh. In my opinion, there are few countries in the world fo well watered, with fine navi- gable rivers and lakes, as Siberia ; and few rivers and lakes produce greater quantities, or more variety, of excellent frefh water fifh, than thofe in this country. For, be- fides fturgeon, white- fifh, fterlet, and o- thers, to be found in the Volga, and the rivers in Ruflia, there are feveral kinds pe- culiar to this part of the world ; particu- larly the n^uchloon, about the fize of a large carp, and much efteemed by perfons of .delicate tafte. Southward from Tcbolfky the foil is fruitful, producing abundance of wheat, rye, 1719. TO P E K I N. 229 rye, barley, oats, and other grain. The cattle alfo are very numerous, and in win- ter are fed with hay. In a word, provi- fions of all kinds are extremely reafonable. From what I have faid, it will appear, that Tobolfky is by no means fuch a difagreea- ble place as is generally imagined. What- ever the opinions of mankind may be, it is the bufmefs of a tnaveller to defcribe pla- ces and things without prejudice or partia- lity, and exhibit them fairiy as they really appear. This principle it fhall be my ftudy to keep always in view. Captain Tabar, a Swedifh officer, was at this time writing a hiftory of Siberia. He was a gentleman very capable for fuch a performance ; and, if it fhall ever be pu- blifhed, it cannot fail of giving great fatis- faction to the curious. Before I leave Tobolfky, it will not be improper to give a fhort account of the fa- mous river Irtiih, that paries this place. It continues its courfe a little to the eaft- ward of the north, in a ftrong but fmooth current. 230 A JOURNEY 1719. current, vifiting feveral fmall towns and villages, and receiving many lefler ftreams, and a large river called Konda, running eaftward, till it difcharges itfelf into the Oby, at a town called Samarioffky-yamm, about fix hundred verft below Tobolfky. The Irtifh takes its rife from a great lake, named Korzan, in a mountainous country, about fifteen hundred verft to the fouthward of Tobolfky. The country a- bout this lake is inhabited by the Black Kalmucks, a mighty and numerous people, governed by a Prince called Kontayfha. From thefe the Kalmucks on the Volga are defcended. After the Irtifh hath run for many miles through a hilly country cover- ed with wood, it pafles through a fine fruit- ful plain, inhabited by the Kalmucks, till it comes to a houfe called Sedmy-palaty, or the Sev^n Rooms, fituated to the right in coming down the river. It is very furpri- fmg to find fuch a regular edifice in the mid- dle of a defert. Some of the Tartars fay it was built by Tamerlane, called by the Tartars ! 7 i9- TO P E K I N. 231 Tartars Temyr-ack-fack, or Lame-temyr ; others by Gingeez-chan. The building, according to the beft information I could obtain, is of brick or ftone, well finifhed, and continues dill entire. It confifts of feven apartments under one roof, from whence it has the name of the Seven Pa- laces. Several of thefe rooms are rilled with fcrolls of glazed paper, fairly written, and many of them in gilt characters. Some of the fcrolls are black, but the greateft part white. The language in which they are written is that of the Tongufts, or Kal- mucks. While I was at Tobolfky, I met with a foldier in the ftreet with a bundle of thefe papers in his hand : He afked me to buy them ; which I did for a fmall fum. I kept them till my arrival in England, when 1 diftri'outed them among my friends; particularly to that learned antiquarian Sir Hans Sloane, who valued them at a high rate, and gave them a place in his celebra- ted mufeum. Two s 3 * AJOURNEY Two of thefe fcrolls were fent, by order of the Emperor Peter the Firft, to the Royal Academy at Paris. The Academy returned a tranflation, which I faw in the rarity-chamber at St Peterfburgh. One of them contained a commiffion to a lama or prieft ; and the other a form of prayer to the Deity. Whether this interpretation may be depended on, I fhall not determine. The Tartars efteem them all facred writings, as appears from the care they take to pre- ferve them. Perhaps they may contain fome curious pieces of antiquity, particu- larly of ancient hiftory. Above the Sed- my-palaty, towards the fource of the Ir- tifli, upon the hills and valleys, grows the beft rhubarb in the world, without the leaft culture. Several days journey from the Palaces, down the Irtifh, on the weftern bank, ftands an old tower named Kalbazinfha- bafhna, or the tower of Kalbazin. Below this is the lake Yamifhoff, to the right, where the Ruffians have built a fmall fort, for 1719. TO P E K I N. -233 for the conveniency of making and gather- ing fait from that lake, great quantities whereof are made by the fun ; it is brought in barks down the river to Tobolfky, and other places. This fort created fome jealoufy to the Kontayfha ; he fent an am- baffador to the governour of Siberia, re- quefting to have it demolifhed ; but this demand not being granted, the difference came to an open rupture, the event of which time muft difcover. Defcending farther, you meet with ano- ther fettlement of the Ruffians, called She- lezinfky, from a rivulet of that name in its neighbourhood. A little below Shele- zinfky ftands Omufka, a confiderable town which alfo derives its name from a river. Both thefe places are fituated on the eaft- ern bank of the Irtifh. You now pafs fome inconfiderable places before you ar- rive at Tara, a little town fituated on the weftern bank, on the road leading from Toboliky to Totnfky, through a country VOL. I. G called 234 A JOURNEY 1719=. called Baraba, of which I fhall give fome account as we proceed to the eaft. Between Tara and Tobolfky are a few fmall towns, and many villages, inhabited by Mahometan Tartars. And the country abounds with corn, cattle, and fine paftu- rage. I have now pointed out the courfe of the Irtilh till it reaches Tobolfky, and from thence till it . empties itfelf into the river Oby. I have nothing further to remark concerning Tobolfky and the country a- round it, and fhould therefore now purfue our journey to the eaftward ; but, before I leave this place, I imagine it will not be improper to fubjoin a few more particulars relative to the Kontayfha, Prince of the Kalmucks, whom I formerly mentioned. I am the more inclined to do this, as I can entirely depend on my intelligence, having procured it from perfons who have been in that country, and feen this Prince ; but particularly from an ingenious and pene- trating gentleman, who fills a public office in 1719- TO P E K I N. in this place, and was employed in feveral meilages to him from the late governour of Siberia. The territories of this Prince are bound- ed by three of the moft potent empires in the world ; on the north by Ruffia, by China on the earl, and by the country of the Great Mogul to the fouth. From the two firft he is feparated by defert plains, and from the third by almoft impaffable mountains. To the fouth-weft his fron- tiers reach near to Bucharia. The Kon- tayfha is a very powerful Prince, and able to bring into the field, at a fhort warning, an hundred thoufand horfemen, who are all of them able-bodied men, well mounted, and armed with bows and arrows, lances and fabres. This is a greater number of horle than any Prince that I know can inufter, except his Ruffian Majefty, and the Em- peror of China. Thefe Tartars live in tents all the year, removing from place to place, as called by neceffity or inclination. This is the moft ancient and pleafant manner of life. 236 A JOURNEY 1719. life. It is entertaining to hear them com- miferate thofe who are confined to one place of abode, and obliged to fupport them* felves by labour, which they reckon the greateft flavery. The Kontayfha has always fome thou- fands of his fubjecls encamped near him- felf, who treat him with great veneration and refped. And, in juftice to him, it muft be confefled, that he is as attentive to the imerefts of his people ; and as affiduous in the adminiftration of juftice, in particular, as if they were his own children. The Kalmucks are not fuch favage peo- ple as they are generally reprefented ; for I am informed, a perfon may travel among them with greater fafety, both to his per- fon and effects, than in many other coun- tries. The Kontayfha received the deputies from the governour of Siberia, like ambaf- fadors from foreign Princes, and treated them accordingly. 'This flicws vvh ,t high refpedl thefe Eaflern Princes entertain for his 1719. TO P E K I N. 237 his Czarifli Majefty, when the governour of Siberia is regarded as a fovereign. The ceremony on thefe occafions was as follows. The deputy with his fervants were ad- mitted into the tent, where the Kontayfha fat with his queen and feveral children a- bout him. He defired all of them to fit down on carpets or mats ; for the Kal- mucks, like moft Afiatics, ufe no chairs. They were entertained with tea before din- ner ; and, after it, the Kontaylha difmifled the deputy in a friendly manner, telling him, he would fend for him next day to receive an anfwer to the governour's letter, which he punctually performed. This anfwer was exprefled in very plain and concife terms. Thefe Tartars in general write with brevity and perfpicuity. I have feen feveral of their letters tranflated, which pleafed me extremely, as they contained no tedious preambles, nor difgui'Ung repe- titions, which ferve only to perplex the reader. The 238 A JOURNEY 1719. The Emperor of China was fome time ago engaged in a war with the Kontayfha, about fome frontier towns, of which the latter took pofleffion, and maintained his claim with a ftrong army. The Emperor fent againft him an army of three hundred thoufand men, under the command of his fourteenth fon, who is reckoned the beft general of all his children. Notwithftan- ding their fuperiority in numbers, the Kon- tayfha defeated the Chinefe in feveral ac- tions. The Emperor, at laft, thought it beft to accommodate the difference, and a peace was concluded, to the fatisfadion of both parties. It muft be obferved, that the Chinefe, being obliged to undertake a long and dif- ficult march, through a defert and barren country, lying weftward of the long wall, being alfo incumbered with artillery and heavy carriages, containing provifions for the whole army during their march, had their force greatly diminifhed before they reached the enemy. The Kontayfha, on the 1719- T P E K I. N. 239 the other hand, having intelligence of the great army coming againft him, waited pa- tiently on his own frontiers till the enemy was within a few days march of his camp, when he fent out detachments of light horfe, to fet fire to the grafs, and lay wafte the country. He alfo diftracled them, day and night, with repeated alarms, which, together with want of provifions, obliged them to retire with confiderable lofs. This method of carrying on war, by wafting the country, is very ancient among the Tartars, and pra&ifed by all of them from the Danube eaftward. This circum- ftance renders them a dreadful enemy to regular troops, who muft thereby b? de- prived of all fubfiftence, while the Tartars, having always many fpare horfes to kill and eat, are at no lofs for provifions. I have only to add, that the Kontayflia muft be the fame prince who, in our Eu- ropean maps, is generally cal'ed the Great Cham of Tartary. As no Europeans tra- vel through that country, thefe maps muft be 240 A JOURNEY i 720 . be very erroneous. It is, however, to be expected, that the Ruffians will in time make a more complete difcovery of the eaftern parts of Afia. Our baggage did not arrive at ToboHky till the 23d of December. The people re- frefhed themfelves till the 27th, when they again fet out, taking the road along the Ir- tifh to Tara. The ambaffador and his re- tinue remained, to pafs the reft of the holi- days. January 9th, 1720, we proceeded to- wards Tara. We pafled through many Tartar villages, and at night lodged in one of their little huts, and warmed ourfelves at a good fire on the hearth. Thefe houfea confift generally of one or two rooms, ac- cording to the ability of the landlord. Near to the hearth is fixed an iron-kettle, to drefs the victuals. In one end of the a- paitment is placed a bench, about eighteen inches high, and fix feet broad, covered with mats, or fkins of wild beafts, upon which 1720. TO P K I N. 241 which all the family fit by day, and fleerj in the night. The walls are built of wood and mofs, confifting of large beams, laid one above another, with a layer of mofs between every two beams. All the roofs I are raifed. A fquare hole is cut out for a window, and, to fupply the want of glafsj a piece of ice is formed to fit the place ex- actly, which lets in a good light. Two or three pieces will laft the whole winter; Thefe Tartars are very neat and cleanly, both in their perfons and houfes. They life no ftoves, as the Ruffians do. Near the houfe there is commonly a fhade fof the cattle. We continued our journey along the banks of the Irtim, having the river to th6 right or left, as the road lay from one Tar- tar village to another. The i jth, we reached Tara, a fmall town, reckoned about five hundred verft from Tobolfky. In all this road we did not meet with a Ruffian village, except a VOL. I. H h fmall 242 A JOURNEY 1720. fmall one near Tara. The country abounds with woods, corn-fields, and fine pafturage, which appeared fufficiently from the quan- tities of hay, and the good condition of the cattle, though the face of the country was covered with deep fnow. We found the air at Tara much milder than at any place fmce we left Kazan. Tara is fituated on the Irtifh, and forti- fied with a deep ditch, ftrong palifades, and wooden towers, fufficient to defend it a- gainft the fudden attacks of the Tartars, called KofTatlhy- orda, who inhabit weft- ward of the Irtifli, and are very trouble- fome neighbours. Here we laid in provifions for our jour- ney over the Baraba, which fignifies, in the Tartar language, a marfhy plain. Its in- habitants are a mixture of different Tartar tribes, called Barabintzy, from the name of the country in which they live. They are a poor milerable people, being treated as fub- jects both by the Emperor and the Contay- fha, 1720. TO P E K I N. 243 fha, and obliged to pay a tribute, in furs and {kins of wild beads to each. They have no grain nor cattle of any kind, except a few rain-deer, and fubfift by hunt- ing and fifhing. What fifh they confume not in the fummer are dried and fmoked for their winter provifions. They are part- ]y of the Mahometan, and partly of the Kalmuck religion ; but this difference cau- fes no difputes. It is generally reckoned, that more rob- beries are committed in Baraba than in any country on the road to China ; not by the natives, for they are very honeft and hofpitable, but by the Kalmucks, who come to collect tribute for the Kontay(ha, who fometimes pick up travellers, and carry them off, with all their effects. It was faid, that a ftrong party of them, having intel- ligence that the ambafiador was to pafs that way, waited to intercept him ; on which account, he took thirty dragoons and fome Coflacks, from the garrifon of Tobolfky, to efcort him to Tomfky ; which was 1244 A JOURNEY was a fufficient guard againft any robbers who might attack us ; and he knew the Kontayfha was too polite a prince to au- thorife his fubjeds to moleft any foreign minifter who had done him no injury, not- withftanding the differences that fubfifted between him and his Gzarifh Majefty. Our baggage having waited at Tara till our arrival, we left that place on the i8th ; and next day came to a large Ruffian vil- lage, fixty verft from Tara, and the laft in- habited by Ruffians, till you pafs the Bara- ba, and come to the river Oby. In the places through which we pafTed, the ambafTador fent for all the hunters and fportfmen, that he might inquire what kinds of game and wild beafts were in ! their neighbourhood. Hunting is the em- ployment of moft of the young fellows in this country, and is very profitable, as they fell the furs to great advantage. We found that this place produced great plenty, both of game and wild beafts, but few fables. In the fpring, a number of elks and flags come hither. TO P E K I N. hither, from the fouth ; many of which are killed by the inhabitants, both .on Ac- count of their flefh and their hides. What of the flefh is not confumed frefh, they fait. The hides are very large, and are drefled into excellent buff. The huntfinan, having found the track of a flag upon the fnow, purfues it upon his fnow fhoes, with his bow and arrows, and little dog, till the ani- mal is quite fatigued ; for, the fnow on the furface being melted by the heat of the fun, and congealed at night by the froft, but not ftrong enough to bear the weight of fuch an animal, he finks deep at every ftep, and the fharp ice cuts his ancles, and lames him ; fo that he becomes an eafy prey to the hunter. One of thefe hunters told me the follow- ing ftory, which was confirmed by feveral of his neighbours : That, in the year 1713, in the month of March, being out a hunt- ing, he difcovered the tradi of a flag, which he puifued ; at overtaking the animal, he was fomewhat ftartlecl, on obferving it had only 246 A JOURNEY 1720; only one horn, ftuck in the middle of its forehead. Being near this village, he drove it home, and fhowed it, to the great admi- ration of the fpectators. He afterwards killed it, and eat the flefh, and fold the horn to a comb- maker in the town of Ta- ra for ten alteens, about fifteen pence Ster- ling. I inquired carefully about the fhape and fize of this unicorn, as I fhall call it, and was told it exactly refembled a flag. The horn was of a brownifh colour, about one archeen, or twenty-eight inches long, and twifted from the root till within a fin- ger's length of the top, where it was divi- ded, like a fork, into two points very fharp. The 1 9th, we entered the Baraba, and continued travelling through it for ten days, when we came to a large Ruffian vil- lage called Tzaufky Oftroguc, from a ri- vulet of that name, which difcharges itfelf into the Oby, a little diftance eaftward from this place. Here is a fmall fort, fur- Bounded with a ditch and pallifades, mount- ed 1720. TO P E K I N. 247 ed with a few cannon, and garrifoned by fome militia of the country, in order to prevent the incurfions of the Kalmucks. "We ftaid a day at this place, to refrefh ourfelves, and having changed horfes, pro- ceeded towards Tomfky. Baraba is really what its name fignifies, an extenflve marfhy plain. It is generally full of lakes, and marfhy grounds, over- grown with tall woods of afpin, alder, wil- lows, and other aquatics ; particularly many large birch-trees, having their bark as white and fmooth as paper. The lakes abound with various kinds of fifties, fuch as pikes, perches, breams, eels, and particularly a fim called karrafs, of an uncommon big- nefs, and very fat. Thefe the inhabitants dry, in fummer, for winter provifions, which are all the food to be found among them. I have eat of it often, and thought it not difagreeable. In winter, they ufe melted fnow for water. They are very hofpitable ; and defire nothing, in return of 64* A JOURNEY 1720* of their civilities, but a little tobacco to fmoke^ and a dram of brandy, of which they are very fond. The drefs, both of men and women, confifts of long coats of flieep-ikins, which they get from the Ruf- fians and Kalmucks, in exchange for more valuable furs. As they wear no other ap- parel, nor even fhirts, they are very nafty* Their fiuts are moft miferable habitations, and funk about one-half under ground. We were glad, however, to find them, as a baiting place, in fuch a cold feafon. The Barabintzy, like moft of the ancient natives of Siberia, have many conjurers a- mong them, whom they call Shamans, and fometimes priefts. Many of The female fex alfo alTume this character. The ma- mans are held in great efteem by the peo- ple ; they pretend to correfpondence with the fhaytan, or devil ; by whom, they fay* they are informed of all pad and future e- vents, at any diftance of time or place. Our ambaflador refolved to inquire ftridtly into 1720. TO P E K I N. into the truth of many ftrange ftories, ge- nerally believed, concerning the fhamans, and fent for alb of fame in that way in the places through which we pafled. In Baraba, we went to vifit a famous woman of this character. When we en- tered her houfe, fhe continued bufy about her domeftic affairs, without almoft taking any notice of her guefts. However, after fhe had fmoked a pipe of tobacco, and drunk a dram of brandy, fhe began to be more cheerful. Our people afked her fome trifling questions about their friends ; but fhe pretended to be quite ignorant, till fhe got more tobacco, and fome inconfiderable prefents, when fhe v began to collecl: her conjuring tools. Firft, fhe brought the fhaytan ; which is nothing but a piece of wood, wherein is cut fomething refembling a human head, adorned with many filk and woollen rags, of various colours ; then a fmall drum, about a foot diameter, to which were fixed many brafs and iron rings, and VOL. I. I i hung A JOURNEY 1720, hung round alfo with rags. She now be- gan a difmal tune, keeping time with the drum, which fhe beat with a flick for that purpofe. Several of her neighbours, whom fhe had previously called to her afliftance, joined in the chorus. During this fcene, which lafted about a quarter of an hour, {he kept the fhaytan, or image, clofe by herfelf, ftuck up in a corner. The charm being now finifhed, fhe defired us to put our queftions. Her anfwers were deliver- ed very artfully, and with as much obfcu- rity and ambiguity, as they could have been given by any oracle. She was a young woman, and very handfome. On the 29th of January, we reached the Oby, which we crofied on the ice, and entered a country pretty well inhabited by Ruffians, where we found provifions, and frefh horfes, as often as we wanted them. The country is generally covered with woods, except about the villages, where are fine corn-fields, and good paf- ture grounds. Our courfe lay a little tq the t72b. T O P E K I N. 251 the northward of the eaft of from Tzaufky Oftrogue. February 4th, we arrived fafe at the town of Tomfky, fo called from the noble river Tomm, upon the eaftern bank of which it ftands. CHAP, A JOURNEY 1720, CHAP. III. Occurrences at Tomjky ; obfervatlons on the T%ulimm Tartars^ &c. and journey continued to Elimfky. THE citadel of Tomfky is fituated on an eminence, and contains the com- mandant's houfe, public offices, and bar- racks for the garrifon. The fortifications, like moft others in this country, are of wood. The town (lands under the hill, along the banks of the river Tomm. The country about this place is pleafant and fruitful. From the top of the hill you have a very extenfive view every way, ex- cept I 7 20. TO P E K I N. 253 cept to the fouth, where it is interrupted by hills. Beyond thefe hills there is a large, dry, and open plain, which ftretches a great way fouthward. About eight or ten days journey from Tomfky, in this plain, are found many tombs, and burying places of ancient he- roes, who, in all probability, fell in battle. Thefe tombs are eafily diftinguiftied by the mounds of earth and ftones raifed upon them. When, or by whom thefe battles were fought, fo far to the -northward, is uncertain. 1 was informed by the Tartars in the Baraba, .that Tamerlane, or Timyr- ack-fack, as they call him, had many en- gagements in that country with the Kal- mucks, whom he in vain endeavoured to conquer. Many perfons go from Tomfky and other parts every fummer to thefe graves, which they dig up, and find, among the afties of the dead, confiderable quanti- ties of gold, filver, brafs, and fome preci- ous ftones ; but particularly hilts of fwords and armour. They find alfo ornaments of faddles AJOURNEY ,72-. faddles and bridles, and other trappings for horfes ; and even the bones of horfes, and fometimes thofe of elephants. Whence it appears, that when any general or perfon of diftin&ion was interred, all his arms, his favourite horfe and fervant, were buried with him in the fame grave : This cuftom prevails to this day among the Kalmucks and other Tartars, and feems to be of great antiquity. It appears from the number of graves, that many thoufands muft have fallen on thefe plains ; for the people have continued to dig for fuch treafure many years* and ftill find it unexhaufted. They are fometimes indeed interrupted, and rob- bed of all their booty, by parties of the Kalmucks, who abhor the diflurbing the afhes of the dead. I have feen feveral pieces of armour, and other curiofities, that were dug out of thefe tombs, particularly an armed man on horfeback, caft in brafs, of no mean defign nor workmanfhip ; alfo figures of deer, caft in pure gold, which were fplit through the TO P E K I N. 255 the middle, and had fome fmali holes in them, as intended for ornaments to a qui- ver, or the furniture of a horfe. While we were at Tomfky, one of thefe grave-diggers told me, that once they light- ed on an arched vault, where they found the remains of a man, with his bow, ar- rows, lance, and other arms, lying together on a filver table. On touching the body it fell to duft. The value of the table and arms was very confiderable. The country about the fource of the ri- ver Tomm, near which thefe tombs are, is very fruitful and pleafant. At the fource of the Tomm the Ruffians have a fmall town called Kuznetfky. This river is formed by the Kondoma, and many lefler rivers ; all which run to the north. In the* hills above Kuznetfky, there had lately been difcovered rich mines of copper, and fome of filver ; which, fince I was in this country, have been greatly improved. On the hills, and in the woods near this place, are many forts of wild beafts, parti- cularly A JOURNEY 1720. cularly the urus, or uhr-ox, one of the fierceft animals the world produces, and exceeding, in fize and ftrength, all the horned fpecies. Their force and agility is fuch, that no wolf, bear, nor tiger, dare to engage with them. Thefe animals are found in the woods o/ Poland, and fome other parts of Europe. As they are well known I need not defcribe them. In the fame woods is found another fpe- cies of oxen, called bubul by the Tartars ; it is, not fo big as the urus ; its body and limbs are very handfome ; it has a high fhoulder and a flowing tail, with long hail- growing from the rump to the extremity, like that of a horfe. Thofe I faw wer*e tame, and as tractable as other cattle. Here are alfo wild affes. I have feen many of their {kins. They have, in all refpecls, the head, tail, and hoofs of an ordinary afs ; but their hair is waved, white and brown, like that of a tiger. There is, befides, a number of wild hor- fes, of a chefnut- colour, which cannot be tamed, 1720. TO P E K I N. 257 tamed, though they are catched when foals* Thefe horfes differ nothing from the com- mon kind in fhape, but are the moft watch- ful creatures alive. One of them waits al- ways on the heights to give warning to the reft, and, upon the leaft approach of danger, runs to the herd, making all the noife it can ; upon which all of them fly- away, like fo many deer. The ftallion drives up the rear, neighing, biting and kicking thofe who do not run faft enough. Notwithftanding this wonderful fagacity, thefe animals are often furprifed by the Kalmucks, who ride in among them, well mounted on fwift horfes, and kill them, with broad lances. Their flefh they efteern excellent food, and ufe their fkins to fleep upon inftead of couches. Thefe are the animals peculiar to this part of the coun- try ; and, befides thefe, there are many- more common to this place with the reft of Siberia. The river Tomm, having parted Kuz- netfky, Tomfky, and feveral other towns VOL. I. K k of 258 A JOURNEY 1729- of lefs note, empties itfelf into the Oby, at a place called Nikolfky, about an hundred yerft below Torafky, in a country over- grown with thick woods. Here the Tomm lofes its name, and makes a great addition to the Oby, which now commences a mighty ftream. The Tomm abounds with variety of fine fifh ; fuch as fturgeon, fterlet, muchfoon, and the largeft and beft quabs, called ia French guion, that I have any where ieen. The method of catching thefe fiih is by planting pales acrofs the river, in which there is left one narrow opening for the fifties to pafs through. Above this open- ing a hole is cut in the ice, and near it is placed a fire upon fome flones laid for that purpofe. The fiih, on feeing the light of the fire, flops a moment in its pafiage ; and, at this inftant, the fifherman flrikes it with a fpear through the hole in the ice. This exercife requires great quicknefs, for the fifh is gone in a trice. I killed feveral of them myfelf. Thus, . f O P E K I N. 259 Thus, having made a fhort excurfion up and down the Tomm, and given a brief defcription of the country adjacent, I re- turn again to Tomfky. Tomfky is a good market for furs of all forts ; but particularly of fables, black and red foxes, ermins, and fquirrels. The fquirrels called Teleutfky, from the name of the diftrid: where they are caught, are reckoned the beft of that fpecies. They have a blackifli ftripe down their back. Befides the common fquirrel, there is another fpecies found here called the flying fquiirel. There is little peculiar in its fhape or fize, only it has, at the upper joint ! of the thigh of the fore-leg, a fmall mem- brane, ftretching to the fhoulder, fome- what like the wing of a bat, which it ex- tends at pleafure, and is thereby enabled to fpring much farther, from tree to tree, than it could do without the help of thefe wings. Both the ermins and fquirrels are: caught only in winter, becaufe in fummer their 1 A JOURNEY 1720. their fur is quite brown, fhort, and of little ufe. We waited fome days at Tomfky for the arrival of our baggage. Here we found feveral Swedifh officers, who had good quarters in a plentiful though diftant place. After our people had refrefhed themfelves for two days, they fet out again on the road to Yenifeyfky. During our abode in Tomfky, we di- verted ourfelves with fifhing and hunting. We were prefent alfo at feveral concerts of mufic, performed by the Swedifh officers, at Mr Kofloff's, commandant of the place. Thefe gentlemen were not lefs expert in touching their inftruments than their com- panions at Tobolfky. Mr Kofloff is a good-natured and chearful gentleman, and treats thefe officers with great humanity. They had along with them a Swedifh par- fon, Mr Veftadius, a man of genius and learning. The Qth, we were entertained at the commandant's, where were affembled fome hundreds TO P E K I N. hundreds of his CofTacks, or light horfe, armed with bows and arrows. After go- ing through their ufual exercife, they fhowed their dexterity in (hooting on horfeback at full fpeed. They ereded a pole for a mark in an open field, and pafling it, at full gallop, let fly their ar- rows, and foon fplit it all to fhivers. The 1 2th, about midnight, we went into our fledges, and fet out on our journey to- wards Yenifeyfky. For the two following days, we had tolerably good roads, lying through a pretty fine country, inhabited by Ruffians. The villages are but thinly feat- tered, yet fufficiently near one another to afford provifions and frefh horfes. On the 1 4th, we reached a large navi- gable river, called Tzulimm. We went up this river upon the ice. We met with nei- ther houfe nor inhabitant for the fpace of fix days. We could get no frefh horfes, and were obliged to carry both provifions and forage along with us, which made this part of the road very tedious. During all this 262 A JOURNEY 1726. this time, we had no where to warm our- felves, or drefs our vi'cluals, but in the thick overgrown woods, which occupy both fides of the river. There is great plenty of fallen trees in thefe woods, of which we made large fires. The trees are chiefly pitch fir, rifing like a pyramid, with long fpreading branches hanging to the ground, which render thele woods almoft impaf- fable to man or beaft. We frequently fet fire to the mofs and dried fibres of thefe nrs. In the fpace of a minute the fire mounts to the top of the tree, and has a very pretty effed. The kindling fo many fires warmed all the air around. In fummer, the banks of this river are inhabited by a tribe of Tartars, called by the Ruffians Tzulimmzy, from the name of the river, who live by fiihing and hunt- ing. We found feveral of their empty huts as we went along. In autumn, thefe people retire from this inhofpitable place towards the fouth, near to towns and vil- lages, where they can find fubfiftence. The I 7 2o. TO P E K I N. The 2Oth, we arrived at a Ruffian vil- lage, called Meletfky Oftrogue, where we {laid a day to refrefh ourielves and horfes. In the neighbourhood of this place, we found many huts of the Tzulimm Tartars, who feem to be a different race from all of that name i have yet mentioned. Their complexion indeed is fwarthy, like that of moft of the other defcendents of the ancient natives of Siberia ; but 1 have feen many of them having white fpots on their {kins, from head to foot, of various figures and iizes. Many imagine thefe fpots natural to the people ; but J. am rather inclined to believe they proceed from their conftant diet of ftm and other animal food, without bread. This, of courfe, creates a fcorbutic habit of body, which often breaks out in infants; and the fears falling off, leave that part of the fkin as if it had been fcalded, which never recovers its natural colour. I have however feen feveral children with fpots, who feemed healthy. Tfce 264 A JOURNEY 1720. The Tzulimms, like other Tartars, live in huts half-funk under ground. They have a fire in the middle, with a hole at the top to let out the fmoke, and benches round the fire, to fit or lie upon. This feems to be the common method of living among all the northern nations, from Lap- land, eaftward, to the Japanefe ocean. The Tzulimms fpeak a barbarous lan- guage, compofed of words from many o- ther languages. Some of our people, who fpoke Turkilh, told me, they had many Arabic words, which they underftood. They are poor, miferable, and ignorant heathens. The archbimop of Tobolfky, in perfon, came lately hither, and baptifed fome hundreds of them, who were inclined to embrace the Chriftian faith. As they are a well difpofed and harmlefs people, probably in a fhort time they may be all converted. The river Tzulimm has its fource about three hundred verft above Meletfky Oftro- gue ; from this place it continues its courfe to 1720. TO P E K I N. 265 to the northward, till it meets with the river Oby, at a place called Shabannfky Oftrogue. Oftrogue, in the Ruffian lan- guage, fignifies a ftrong pallifade, inclofing a certain piece of ground. On the firft fet- tlements made by the Ruffians in ;hefe parts, fuch inclofures were neceiTary to pre- vent any furprife from the inhabitants. The 2 1 ft, early in the morning, we left Meletfky, and travelled through thick woods, along narrow roads. Next day, we came to a fmall Ruffian village, called Melay-keat ; where we found our baggage, for the firft time fince we quitted Tomfky. Near this place the river Keat has its fource; and runs towards the weft, till it meets with the Oby. Having changed horfes at Me- lay-keat, we left our baggage, and proceed- ed on our journey. On the evening of the 22d, we came to a zimovey, where we halted a little, to re- frefh ourfelves and bait our horfes. A zi- movey is a houfe or two, built in a place at a great diftance from any town or village, VOL. I. L 1 for 266 A JOURNEY 1720. for the convenience of travellers ; and is a fort of inn, where you generally find a warm room, frefh bread, and a wholefome and agreeable liquor, called quafs, made of malt, or rye-meal, fteeped and fermented; with hay and oats, at eafy rates. From this place we travelled to Beloy, a large village, where we changed horfes, and proceeded. From hence to Yenifeyiky the country is well cultivated. Upon the road are many Rufs villages, where we got frefh horfes as often as we pleafed, without halt- ing ten minutes. Thus we continued tra- velling, day and night, till we arrived, on the 23d, at the town of Yenifeyfky, where we had a friendly reception, and good en- tertainment, from the commandant, Mr Becklimimof, whohadcomeibme milesfrom town to meet his old friend the ambaflador. Here I found Mr Kanbar Nikititz Aikin- fiof, with whom I got acquainted at Cazan, while we wintered there, in the journey to Perfia. Some crofs accident had been the occaiion of his corning to this place. He enjoyed 1720. TO P E K I N. 267 i enjoyed full liberty to walk about at plea- fure. He underftood feveral languages, was well acquainted with hiftory, and a chearful good natured companion. Here we pafled the holidays called Maff- lapitza, or the Carnaval, which is held on the week before Lent. In the mean time our carriages arrived, which were defpatch- ed again as foon as poflible. The town of Yenifeyfky is pleafantly fi- tuated in a plain, on the weftern bank of the river Yenifey, from which the town takes its name. It is a large and populous place, fenced with a ditch, pallifades, and wooden towers. Here is a good market for furs of all forts ; particularly of the a- nimals called piefly, which are of two co- lours, white and dove colour. Thefe crea- tures are caught far to the northward of this place. They are nearly of the fhape and fi2e of a fox ; having a (hort bulhy tail, and a thick foft downy fur, very light and warm, which is much efteerned by the great men in the northern parts of China ; arid, by 268 A JOURNEY 1720. by them, made chiefly into cufhions, on which they fit in winter. Befides the above, there is here another creature called rofFomack in Rufs, and feel- frefs by the Germans ; becaufe they ima- gine it eats a great deal more in proportion than other animals. I have feen feve- ral of them alive. They are very fierce, and about the fhape and fize of a badger ; the neck, back, and tail, are black, but a- bout the belly the hair is of a brownifh co- lour. The blacker they are the more va- luable. The (kin being thick, is only ufed in caps and muffs. Alfo elks, rain- deer, and flags. The latter retire to the fouth on the approach of winter, and return in the fpring. Here are likewife an incredi- ble number of white hares, which perhaps I may mention afterwards. I muft not omit the black foxes, which are in great abundance about Yenifeyiky. Their fur is reckoned the moft beautiful of any kind ; it is even preferred to the fable, with refped to lightnefs and warm- nefs. 1726. TO P E K I N. 269 nefs. I faw here one of their fkins valued at five hundred crowns, and fome of them far exceed this fum. Before I leave this place, 1 mall give a fhort defcription of the courfe of the fa- mous river Yenifey, according to the beft information I could procure. It rifes in a hilly country, at a great diftance fouthward from this place ; being joined by many rivers in its courfe, it grows into a mighty ftream, and is, at Yenifeyiky, full as large as the Volga. It runs the longeft courfe of any river on this vaft continent. The firft town, of any note, in coming down this river, is Kraflho-yarr, which ftands on the weftern bank. It is a place of confi- derable trade, particularly in furs. From this place, along the banks, are many vil- lages, till the Yenifey meets the lower Tongufta, a large river, coming from the eaft. a few verft above Yenifeviky. Be- ' 4 J low this place, there are many inconfidera- ble fettlements, till you come to Manga- feylky, a town famous for furs, and the flirine 270 AJOURNEY 1720. (hrine of an illuftrious faint, called Vafiile Mangafeyfky, much frequented by the de- vout people in thefe parts. Above this place, the Yenifey receives the Podkamena-tongufta, a- large river, running from the fouth-eaft ; and at Man- gafeyfky, it meets another river, called Tu- rochanfky, coming from the weft. The Yenifey now continues its courfe, almoft due north, till it discharges itfelf into the ocean. This river abounds with variety of excellent fifh, fuch as I have already men- tioned, but in lefler quantities. The 27th, we left Yenifeyfky, and tra- velled about eight or ten verft along the fouth bank of the river, when we came to thick. and tall woods, which obliged us to leave the land, and march along the river on the ice, which was very uneven, 1 'his rougbnefs is caufed by the froft fetting in about autumn, with a ftrong wefterly wind, which drives up great cakes of ice upon one another, in fome places four or five feet high. If the froft happens to begin in TO P E K I N. in calm weather, the ice is very fmooth, and eafy for fledges. The 28th, we proceeded along the Ye- nifey, meeting fometimes with villages. The rigour of the cold was much abated, but the face of winter appeared every where, without the leaft fign of fpring. At evening, we entered the river Tongufta, which we found as rough as the former ; but, as both the banks were overgrown with thick woods, we were obliged to keep along the ice. Next day, we (till proceeded along the river, in blowing weather and driving fnow. The i ft of March, we overtook our bag- gage, which we pafied ; it being thought more convenient, both in order to procure lodging and frefh horfes, that the heavy carriages mould travel behind. We continued our journey for feveral days along the Tongufta. We found, now and then, little villages, or (ingle houfes, on the banks. One day, we chanced to meet a prodigious flock of hares, all as white 272 A JOURNEY white as the fnow on which they walked. I fpeak within compafs, when I fay there were above five or fix hundred of them. They were coming down the river, very deliberately, on a fmall path of their own making, clofe to the beaten road. As foon as they faw us, all of them run into the woods, without feeming much frightened. I am informed that thefe hares travel to the fouth, in much greater flocks than this, e- very fpring, and return in autumn, when the rivers are frozen, and the fnow falls. In moft of the villages we found plenty of this fort of venifon ; the inhabitants, how- ever, value it but little ; for they catch thefe hares more on account of their {kins, of which they make confiderable profits, than their flefh. The Tongufy, fo called from the name of the fiver, who live along its banks, are the pofterity of the ancient inhabitants of Siberia, and differ in language, manners, and drefs, and even in their perfons and ftature, from all the other tribes of thefe people !7*o, TO P E K I N. 273 people I have had occafion to fee. They have no houfes, where they remain for a- ny time, but range through the woods, and along rivers, at pleafure ; and, wherever they come, they erect a few fpars, incli- ning to one another at the top ; thefe they cover with pieces of birchen bark, fewed together, leaving a hole at the top to let out the fmoke. The fire is placed in the middle. They are very civil and tractable, and like to fmoke tobacco, and drink bran- dy. About their huts they have generally a good (lock of rain-deer, in which all their wealth confifts. The men are tall and able-bodied, brave, and very honeft. The women are of a middle fize, and virtuous. I have feen ma- ny of the men with oval figures, like wreaths, on their foreheads and chins ; and fometimes a figure refembling the branch of a tree, reaching from the corner of the eye to the mouth. Thefe are made in their infancy, by pricking the parts with a needle, and rubbing them with charcoal, VOL. I. Mm the 274 AJOURNEY 1720. the marks whereof remain as long as the perfon lives. Their complexion is fwarthy. Their faces are not fo flat as thofe of the Kalmucks, but their countenances more o- pen. They are altogether unacquainted with any kind of literature, and worfhip the fun and moon. They have many fha- mans among them, who differ little from thofe I formerly defcribed. I was told of others, whofe abilities in fortune-telling far exceeded thofe of the fhamans at this place, but they lived far northward. They can- not bear to fleep in a warm room, but re- tire to their huts, and lie about the fire, on ikins of wild beafts. It is furprifing how thefe creatures can fuffer the very piercing cold in thefe parts. The women are drefled in a fur-gown, reaching below the knee, and tied about the waift with a girdle. This girdle is a- bout three inches broad, made of deer's- Ikin, having the hair curioufly ftitched down and ornamented ; to which is faften- ed, at each fide, an iron ring, that ferves to carry 1720. TO P E K I N. 275 carry a tobacco-pipe, and other trinkets of fmall value. Their gowns are alfo ftitched down the breaft, and about the neck. Their long black hair is plaited, and tied about their heads, above which they wear a fmall fur-cap, which is becoming enough. Some of them have fmall ear-rings. Their feet are drefled in bufkins, made of deer-fkins, which reach to the knee, and are tied about the ancle with a thong of leather. The drefs of the men is very fimple,and fit for acYion. It confifts of a fhort jacket, with narrow fleeves, made of deer's- fkin, having the fur outward ; troufers and hofe of the fame kind of {kin, both of one piece, and tight to the limbs. They have, befides, a piece of fur, that covers the breaft and ftomach, which is hung about the neck with a thong of leather. This, for the moft part, is neatly ftitched and ornament- ed by their wives. Round their heads they have a ruff, made of the tails of fquirrels, to preferve the tips of the ears from the cold. There is nothing on the crown, but the hair 276" A JOURNEY 1720. hair fmoothed, which hangs in a long plait- ed lock behind their backs. Their arms are, a bow, and feveral forts of arrows, according to the different kinds of game they intend to hunt. The ar- rows are carried, in a quiver, on their backs, and the bow always in their left hand. Befides thefe, they have a fhort lance, and a little hatcher. Thus accoutred, they are not afraid to attack the fierceft creature in the woods, even the flrongeft bear ; for they are flout men, and dextrous archers. In winter, which is the feafon for hunting wild beafts, they travel on what are called fnow-fhoes, without which it would be impoflible to make their way through the deep fnow. Thefe are made of a very thin piece of light wood, about five feet long, and five or fix inches broad, inclining to a point before, and fquare be- hind. In the middle is fixed a thong, through which the feet are put. On thefe fhoes a peifon may walk fafely over the deepeft fnpw ; for a man's weight will not fink 1720, TO P E K I N. 277 fink them above an inch. Thefe, however, can only be ufed on plains. They have a different kind for afcending hills, with the {kins of feals glued to the boards, having the hair inclined backwards, which pre- vents the Hiding of the flioes, fo that they can afcend a hill very eafily ; and, in de- fcending, they Hide downwards at a great rate. The nation of the Tongufy was very numerous, but is of late much diminished by the fmall-pox. It is remarkable, that they knew nothing of this diftemper till the Ruffians arrived among them. They are fo much afraid of this difeafe, that, if any one of a family is feized with it, the reft immediately make the patient a little hut, and fet by him fome water and vic- tuals ; then, packing up every thing, they march off to the windward, each carrying an earthen pot, with burning coals in it, and making a dreadful lamentation as they go along. They never revifit the fick till they think the danger paft. If the per- fon 278 A JOURNEY 1720, fon dies, they place him on a branch of a tre,e, to which he is tied with ftrong wythes, to prevent his falling. When they go a-hunting into the woods, they carry with them no provifions, but depend entirely on what they are to catch. They eat every animal that comes in their way, even a bear, fox, or wolf. The fquir- rek are reckoned delicate food ; but the er- mins have fuch a ftrong rank tafte and fmell, that nothing but ftarving can oblige them to eat their flefh. When a Tongufe kills an elk or deer, he never moves from the place till he has eat it up, unlefs he happens to be near his family ; in which cafe he carries part of it home. He is ne- ver at a lofs for fire, having always a tin- der-box about him. If this fhould happen to be wanting, he kindles a fire, by rubbing two pieces of wood againft each other. They eat nothing raw, but in great extre- mity. The fables are not caught in the fame manner as other animals. The fur is fo tender, 1720. TO P E K r N. 279 tender, that the leaft mark of an arrow, or ruffling of the hair, fpoils the fale of the (kin. In hunting them they only ufe a little dog and a net. When a hunter finds the track of a fable upon the fnow, he fol- lows it perhaps for two or three days, till the poor animal, quite tired/ takes refuge in fome tall tree ; for it can climb like a cat ; the hunter then fpreads his net around the tree, and makes a fire ; the fable, un- able to endure the fmoke, immediately de- fcends, and is caught in the net. I have been told by fome of thefe hunters, that, when hard pinched with hunger on fuch long chaces, they take two thin boards, one of which they apply to the pit of the fto* mach, and the other to the back oppofite to it ; the extremities of thefe boards are tied with cords, which are drawn tighter by degrees, and prevent their feeling the cra- vings of hunger. Although I have obferved, that the Ton- gufy, in general, worfhip the fun and moon, there are many exceptions to this obfer- A JOURNEY 1720; obfervation. I have found intelligent peo- ple among them, who believed there was a being fuperior to both fun and moon, and who created them and all the world. I fhall only remark farther, that, from all the accounts I have heard and read of the natives of Canada, there is no nation in the world which they fo much referable as the Tongufians. The diftance between them is not fo great as is commonly imagined. The 4th of March, we came to a little monaftery, called Troytza, dedicated to the Holy Trinity ; where we found about half a dozen monks, who gave us an hofpitablc reception in their cells, and furnimed us with provifions and frefh horfes. The mo- naftery ftands upon the north fide of the river, on a very pleafant though folitary bank, encompafled with woods, corn-fields, and good pafturage. Moft of the villages are on the north fide of the river, as it is higher than the fouth fide. The fame day, we proceeded on our jour- ney along the river* We met with, daily, great 1720. TO P E K I N. 281 great flocks of hares in their progrefs to the weftward, and many Tongufians in their huts. It is to be obferved, that, from this river northward to the Frozen Ocean, there are no inhabitants, except a few Tongufi- ans, on the banks of the great rivers ; the whole of this moft extenfive country being overgrown with dark impenetrable woods. The foil along the banks of this river is good, and produces wheat, barley, rye, and oats. The method taken by the inhabi- tants to deftroy the large fir-trees is, to cut off a ring of bark from the trunk, about a foot broad, which prevents the afcending of the fap, and the tree withers in a few years. This prepares it for being burnt in a dry feafon ; by which means the ground is both cleared of the wood, and manured by the aflies, without much labour. The Ruffians obferve, that, where the fort of fir '; commonly called the Scotch fir, grows, the ground never fails of producing corn ; but it is not fo where the pitch, or any other kind of fir, prevails. VOL. I. N n Tie 282 A JOURNEY 1720. The yth, we came to the head of the Tongufky, which is formed by the conflux of two other rivers, the Angara, and the Elimm. The firft iflues from the great Baykall lake, and runs towards the weft, till it meets the Tongufky when it lofes its name. We left the Angara and Ton- gufky on our right hand, and proceeded a- long the Elimm, which we found much fmoother than the Tongufky. The Elimm is a confiderably large and navigable river. The banks on the fouth fide are very high, and covered with rugged rocks, overgrown with woods ; but, to the north, you meet with feveral villages, corn-fields, and paf- turage. We kept on our courfe up the Elimm, a little to the northward of the eaft, till the 9th, when we arrived at the town of E- limfky, fo called from the name of the ri- ver, which ftands in a narrow valley, on the fouth fide of the river, encompafled with high hills, and rocks covered with woods. This place is but fmall, and is only confi- derable, 1720* TO P E K I N. 283 derable, as it ftands on the road to the eaf- tern parts of Siberia ; for travellers to Chi- na generally take to the fouth-eaft, to- wards Irkutfky ; and thofe who travel to Yakutfky and Kamtzatfky, to the north- eaft. CHAP. A JOURNEY 1720; CHAR IV. Obfervations on TCakutJky and Kamt- %atjky, 8SV, yourney continued to Irkut/ky, and Occurrences there, AT Elimiky I met with General Kani- fer. He was adjutant general to Charles XII. of Sweden, and much efteem- ed by that great warrior, for his military- exploits. Kanifer was a native of Cour- land. He was taken prifoner by the Ruf- fians in Poland, and fent hither, where he lived in eafe and folitude, and was regu- larly vifited by all travellers. This gentleman had a creature called kaberda, which was brought to him when 1720. TO P E K I N. 285 a fawn by fotne of the Tongufy. It is the animal from which the fweet-fmelling drug called mufk is taken. The mufk grows a- bout the navel, in form of an excrefcence, which is cut off, and preferved, when the creature is killed. There are many of them in this country ; but the mufk is not fo ftrong fcented as that which comes from China, and more fouthern climates. The general had bred this creature to be very familiar. He fed at his table with bread and roots. When dinner was over, it jumped on the table, and picked up the crumbs. It followed him about the ftreets like a dog. I muft confefs it was pleafing to fee it cut caprioles, and play with chil- dren like a kid. The kaberda is a fize lefs than the fal- low-deer, and its colour darker. It is of a pretty fhape, having erect horns, without branches ; is very fwift, and haunts rocks and mountains of difficult accefs to men or dogs ; and, when hunted, jumps from cliff to cliff with incredible celerity, and firm- nefs s$6 A JOURNEY 1720; nefs of foot. The flefh is efteemed better venifon than any of the deer kind, of lar- ger fize, whereof there is great variety in thefe parts/ Before I leave Elimfky, I fliall, as ufualj give a fhort account of fome of the places adjacent ; particularly thofe to the north- eaft, towards the river Lena, and Yakutfky, according as I have been informed by tra- vellers, on whofe veracity I could entirely depend. The people who travel in winter from hence to thefe places, generally do it in Ja- nuary or February. It is a very long and difficult journey, and which none but Ton* gufians, or fuch hardy people, have abili- ties to perform. The Ruffians frequently finifh it in fix weeks. The common me- thod is as follows : After travelling a few days in fledges, when the road becomes impaflable by horfes, they fet themfelves on fnow-fhoes, and drag after them what is called a nart, containing provifions and other neceflaries, which are as few and light 1720. TO P E K I N. 287 light as poflible. This nart is a kind of fledge, about five feet long, and ten inch- es broad, which a man may eafily draw up- on the deepeft fnow. At night, they make a large fire, and lay themfelves down to deep in thefe narrow fledges. As foon as they have refreshed themfelves, they again pro- ceed on their fnow-fhoes, as before. This manner of travelling continues about the fpace of ten days, when they come to a place where they procure dogs to draw both themfelves and their narts. The dogs are yoked by pairs, and are more or fewer in number, according to the weight they have to draw. Being trained to the work, they go on with great fpirit, barking all the way ; and the perfon, who lies in the fledge, holds a fmall cord to guide the dog that leads the reft. They are fattened to the fledge by a foft rope, which is tied a- bout their middle, and paries through be- tween their hind legs. I have been fur- prifed to fee the weight that thefe creatures are able to draw ; for travellers muft carry along A JOURNEY 1720. along with them provifions, both for them- felves and the dogs. Thefe ^watchful ani- mals know the time of fetting out in the morning, and make a difmal howling, till they are fed, and purfue their journey. This way of travelling would not, I believe, fuit every conftitution ; the very fight of it fatisfied my curiofity. Thus, however, thefe people proceed, for near three weeks, till they arrive at fome villages on the Le- na, where, leaving the dogs, they procure horfesj with which they travel to the town of Yakutfky. This place has its name from a rivulet, called Yakut, which empties itfelf into the Lena. I have been, perhaps, too particular in defcribing the method of travelling w'th fnow-fhoes and dogs ; but, as thefe things are known to few Europeans, I concluded an account of them would not be difagree- able. I have feen feveral Swedifh officers who have travelled to Yakutfky in this manner. I tried the mow- {hoes myfelf, and TO P E K I N. 289 and found them very fatiguing ; but time and practice make them eafy and familiar. There is a more agreeable road from E- limfky to Yakutfky than that I have men- tioned, which is by water, down the river Lena ; but this rout will not agree with the time and circumftances of every traveller. Thofe who travel fromlrkutfkyby this courfe go by land to a place called Vercholenfkv Oftrogue, fituated near the fource of the Le- na, where they embark, and fall down the flream. Thofe who go from Elimfky, crofs the country directly, about two days jour- ney, to the firft convenient place upon the Lena, where they procure veflels, and fail down the river to Yakutfky, or any other place ; but, in this paflage by water, they are peftered with numbers of large gnats and mulkitoes, which leflen the pleafure of the voyage. Before I ; proceed to the northward, it will not be improper to give a fhort de- fcription of the famous river Lena ; which, for the length of its courfe, and quantity of VOL. I. O o water. I A JOURNEY 1720. water, may be compared to any of the lar- geft rivers in the world. The Lena rifes at a fmall diftance north- ward from the Baykall lake, and runs to the north, with a little variation, till it difchar- ges itfelf into the Northern Ocean. I com- pute the length of it, from the fource to the ocean, to be about two thoufand five hun-* dred Englifh miles, though it is much morei by common report. It is navigable during this whole courfe, having no cataracts fo great as to prevent the paflage of veflels of confiderable burden, ft receives many great rivers, moft of which come from the eaft. It may be eafily imagined, that the Lena cannot fail of being ftored with various kinds of excellent fim, when the other ri- vers in Siberia afford fuch plenty and vari- ety. The banks are generally overgrown with tall thick woods, wherein are abun- dance of game, and wild beafts. The country, between its fource and the Baykall lake, is well peopled, abounding with 1720. TO P E K I N. with many Rufs villages and corn-fields^ along the banks of the river. Having formerly mentioned Yakutfky and Kamtzatfky, I {hall add a few obfer- vations on thefe two provinces. The town of Yakutfky, capital of the province of that name, is fituated on the weft bank of the river Lena, and governed by a commandant ; whofe office is reckon- ed very lucrative, as many fables, and o- ther valuable furs, are found in that pro- vince. The winter here is very long, and the froft fo violent, that it is never out of the earth, in the month of June, beyond two feet and an half below the furface. When the inhabitants bury their dead three feet deep, they are laid in frozen earth ; for the heat of the fun never penetrates a- bove two feet, or two feet and an half ; fo that, I am informed, all the dead bodies re- main in the earth unconfumed, and will do fo till the day of judgment. The 292 A JOURNEY 1720. The town, and many villages in its neighbourhood, are inhabited by Ruffians, who have horfes and cows, but no fheep nor corn. They are plentifully fupplied with corn from the fouthern parts of the country, by water-carriage along the Lena. And, in fummer, they make hay enough to feed their cattle in winter. The province of Yakutfky is inhabited by a numerous tribe of Tartars, by which name the Ruffians call the whole of the natives of this country, however they dif- fer from one another in religion, language, and manners. Thofe of this province are named Yakuty. They occupy a great fpace of territory round this place, efpeci- ally to the eaft, where they border with the extenfive province of Kamtzatfky. The Yakuty differ little from the Ton- gufians, either in their perfons or way of life. Their occupation, like that of the o- ther natives, is fifhing and hunting. They have flattifti faces, little black eyes, and long black hair, plaited, and hanging down their 1720. TO P E K I N. 293 their back*. Many of the men are mark- ed in the face with charcoal, after the man- ner of the Tongufians. I have, however, feen many of thefe people, both men and women, of good complexions. They of- ten fell their children to the Ruffians, who are very fond of them, as they generally make trufty fervants. Thefe people, though otherwife humane and tractable, have among them one very barbarous cuftom : When any of their people are infirm through age, or feized with diftempers reckoned incurable, they make a fmall hut for the patient, near fome river, in which they leave him, with fome provifions, and feldom or never return to vifit him. On fuch occafions, they have no regard to father or mother, but fay they do them a good office in fending them to a better world. Whereby it appears, that even thefe rude ignorant people have a notion of a future ftate. Under Kamtzatfky I include all that vaft tra& of land reaching from the river Amoor, 2 94 AJOURNEY Amoor, along the fhore of the Eaftern, or Japanefe ocean, called by the Ruffians Tikoe More, or the Calm Sea, to the north- eaft point of the continent. The country along the fhore is very pleafant and heal- thy, efpecially to the fouth, where the cli- mate is temperate. This part of the coun- try produces grain, and, as I have been in- formed, even grapes and other fruits. The inhabitants are very humane and hofpi- table. When the Ruffians firft entered this pro- vince, the Kamtzedans endeavoured to op- pofe them. For this purpofe they afTem- bled great numbers of men, armed, after the fafhion of their country, with bows, arrows, and Ihort lances, headed with bone, fharpened at the point. Whence it ap- pears, that thefe people knew no more the ufe of iron, than the Mexicans on the arri- val of the Spaniards in America. Their multitudes were foon difperfed by a few Ruffians with fire-arms, which, in thofe days, had rifled barrels, and a fmall bore, which j 7 2o. TO P E K I N. 295 which killed at a great diftance. The poor Kamtzedans, feeing their people fall with- out any vifible wound, and aftonifhed with the fire and noife of the gunpowder, left the field in the utmoft confternation. Their difpofitions now were wholly inclined to peace ; and a few of their chief men were fent to the Ruffians in order to obtain it- They proftrated themfelves, in the moft fubmifiive manner, before the leader of the party, and begged of him to grant them, peace ; which he did, on condition of their paying to his Majefty an annual tribute of fables, or other furs. This condition they have punctually performed ever fince. Many parts of Kamtzatlky are hilly and mountainous, particularly to the north, and covered with tall woods. At Ochotfky is a good harbour, and timber enough to build a royal navy. There are many great and fmall rivers that run through the coun- try, and empty themfelves into the Eaftern Ocean, among which is a great river called Anadeer. To the north of this river, to- wards A JOURNEY 1720; wards the ocean, lies an extenfive traft of land, little known, and inhabited by a fierce and favage people, called by the Ruf- fians Anadeertzy, who continue very un- tra&able. I have nothing further to add concern- ing thefe remote provinces, only, I am per- fuaded, that the iflands of Japan can be at no great diftance from the fouthern parts of Kamtzatfky. What confirmed me in this opinion is, that I faw at St Peterfburgh a young man, a native of Japan, who, I believe, is yet alive in the Academy of Sci- ences at that place. I afked him, by what accident he was brought fo far from his own country ; and he gave me the follow- ing account : That his father and himfelf, with a few perfons more, being at a noted town called Naggifaky, on the weft coaft of the ifland, employed about fome affairs of trade, and having finifhed their bufinefs, intended to return to their own habitations, on the north fliore, by failing round the coaft. Therefore went they on board a fmall 1720. TO P E K I N. 297 fmall boat, and begun their voyage home- ward ; but, meeting with a ftrong gale off the land, they were unfortunately driven out to fea, and, in a few days, were caft upon the coaft of Kamtzatfky, half-ftarved, and in the greateft diftrefs- In this condi- tion they met with a Ruffian officer, who afforded them all that affiftance which com- mon humanity dictates on fuch occafions. Notwithftanding all his care, feveral of the old people died, being quite fpent with fa- tigue, and want of victuals. That he and another youth, who was fince dead, were fent to St Peterfburgh, where his Majefty was pleafed to order that they fhould be provided for in the Academy. This young man could read and write both the Japanefe and Rufljan languages. We fet out from. Elimfky on the I2th ; and next day, in the evening, came to a fmall village, upon the north bank of the river Angara, about eighty verft diftant from Elimfky. During thefe two days we faw no houfe nor any inhabitants, the whole VOL. I. P p of 298 A JOURNEY 1720, of the country through which we pafled being covered with tall and thick woods. There is a narrow, road cut for fledges, and the trees on each fide meeting at the top {hade it by day, and in the night make it very dark, and almoft difmal. We pafled the night in this village, where we got frefn horfes ; and, next morning, repeated our journey almoft due eaft up the river Angara upon the ice. A- long the banks we found many villages well peopled. The face of the country had now a different afpedt from what I had feen for feveral months ; fometimes we faw a fine champaign country, exhibiting a beautiful and extenfive profpect ; at o- ther times, the view was agreeably varied with woods and rifing grounds. The north fide of the river is moftly overgrown with woods. There are fome openings a- long the banks, where we found villages, and abundance of cattle and provifions. The 1 5th, we arrived at a large village called Ballaganiky, fituated on the fouth fide 1720, TO P E K I N. 299 fide of the Angara, near a rivulet, running from the fouth, called Unga. The fitua- tion of this place is very pleafant, as it ftands in a fruitful plain, and has many corn-fields and woods in the neighbour- hood. Here we found another tribe of the na- tives of Siberia, who differ, in fome parti- culars, from all thofe I have formerly de- fcribed. They are called by the Ruffians Bratfky, but by themfelves Buraty. They live in tents all the year ; and, having large flocks of fheep, and many cows and horfes, they remove from place to place, as the convenience of grazing requires. Their language has a great affinity to that of the Kalmucks 5 and they have priefts among them who can read and write that lan- guage. As to their drefs and manner of life, I could obferve little difference between them and the Kalmucks on the Volga ; and therefore conclude they have both de- fcended from the fame original. Their faces, however, are not quite fo flat as thofe of A JOURNEY 1720, of the Kalmucks ; their nofes beirfg fome- what higher, and their countenances more open. The Buraty are ftout active men, but hate all kind of labour : For, though they have the example of the Ruffians plowing and fowing their ground, and living plen- tifully on the produce of this rich and fer- tile foil, they chufe ftill to live in their tents, and tend their flocks, on which their fubfiftence entirely depends. The chief exercife of the men is hunt- ing and riding. They have a good breed of faddle-horfes, and their horned cattle are very large. Their fheep have broad tails, and their mutton is excellent. They have alib great abundance of goats ; for all thefe animals they make no provifion of fodder, but leave them to feed in the open fields. When the fnow falls to a great depth, which feldom happens in thefe parts, they drive them to the fouthward to rifing grounds, where Jitile fnow lies. Their I 7 2o. TO P E K I N. 301 Their arms are bows and arrows, lances and fabres ; all of which are ufed on horfe- back ; for, like the Kalmucks, they have no infantry, They are dexterous archers, and fkilful horfemen. Thefe people were formerly fubject to a prince of the Mongals, but now live very quietly under the Ruffian government. They are at prefent a very numerous people, reaching towards the eaft and fouth of the Baykall lake, and are generally reckoned very honeft and fmcere. As to their drefs, the men wear a coat, or rather gown, of fheep-fkins, girt about the middle, in all feafons ; a fmall round cap, faced with fur, having a taflel of red filk at the top, which, together with a pair of drawers and boots, makes up the whole of their apparel. The womens drefs is nearly the fame, only their gowns are plait- ed about the waift, and hang down like a petticoat. The married women have their hair hanging in two locks, one on each fide of the head, drawn through two iron rings 302 A JOURNEY 1720. rings to prevent its floating on the breaft, and looking very like a tye-wig. Round their fore- head they wear a hoop of po- limed iron, made faft behind ; and on their head a fmall round cap, faced with fur, and embroidered, in their fafhion, to dif- tinguifh it from thofe of the men. The maids are drefled in the fame manner, only their hair is all plaited, hanging in feparate locks round their head, and is as black as a ra- ven : Some of them have good complex- ions. Both the men and women are cour- teous in their behaviour. I fhould like them much better if they were a little more cleanly. Both their perfons and tents are extremely nafty, from their uimg only {kins to preferve them from the cold ; on thefe they fit or lie, round a little fire, in their tents. The religion of the Buraty feems to be the fame with that of the Kalmucks, which is downright Paganifm of the grofleft kind. They talk indeed of an Almighty and good being, who created all things, whom they call 1720. T O P E K I N. 303 call Burchun, but feem bewildered, in ob- fcure and fabulous notions, concerning his nature and government. They have two high priefts, to whom they pay great re- fpecl: ; one is called Delay-Lama, the other Kutuchtu. Of thefe priefts I {hall have an opportunity to give fome account after- wards. In paffing the tents of the Buraty, I of- ten obferved a long pole, whereon was hung, by the horns, the head and fkin of a fheep. On inquiring the reafon of this appearance, I was told that the animal, whofe head and fkin thefe were, had been flain, and offered in facrifice, to the God who protected their flocks and herds. I could obferve no images among them, ex- cept fomerelicks given them by their priefts, which they had from the Delay-Lama ; thefe are commonly hung up in a corner of their tents, and fometimes about their necks, by way of an amulet, to preferve them from misfortunes. The 304 A JOURNEY 1720, The 1 6th, we came to another large vil- lage, called Kamenka, fituated on the north bank of the river, where we found many of the Buraty in their tents. This day we had fome rain, which melted much fnow, and made it dangerous to travel upon the ice ; fo that we were obliged to leave the river, and make the beft of our way along the banks ; for feveral of our horfes broke through the ice, and were got up again with no fmall difficulty. The i yth, our route lay to the fouth-eaft. The alteration of the weather was now very perceptible, the heat of the fun was very intenfe, and the fnow fuddenly dif- appeared, leaving no marks of winter, ex- cept the ice upon the river, which was va- nifhing very faft. Thus, in the fpace of a few days, we pafied from a cold winter to a warm fpring ; and one would almoft have imagined we had been imperceptibly drop- ped into a another climate. Our fledges, in which we had travelled and lodged, for moft part, during the winter, could now be of 1720. TO P E K I N. 305 of no ufe ; and we left them to be put on wheel-carriages, in order to follow us as fhould be convenient. Having procured fuch horfes and furni- ture as the place afforded, we proceeded a- long the north bank of the Angara, to- wards Irkutfky. We were efcorted by fome Coflacks, and a party of the Buraty, armed with bows and arrows. We hunted all the way as we travelled, and were not a little furprifed to fee the Buraty kill many hares with their arrows. This exercife was very feafonable, as we had been confined to fledges for more than three months, during our journey from Cazan to this place. On the 1 8th of March, we arrived at the town of Irkutfky, fo called from the rivulet Irkut, which falls into the Angara near it. It ftands on the north bank of the Angara, in a large plain, to the north of which the grounds are very high, and covered with woods. On the fouth fide of the river, towards the Baykall lake, are high hills, rifing to the fouth, and covered Voi,, I. Qjl with 06 A JOURNEY 1720. \vith tall trees, among which are many la- rixes and Siberian cedars. The larix, cal- led in Rufs lifvinitza, is a well known tree in thefe parts ; near the root of it grows a famous drug, called agarick, in form of a jnufhroom ; it fheds its leaf in autumn, and in fummer it looks like a pine; it grows yery flraight and tall, and is reckoned good timber for {hip-building ; it bears a cone Jike the fir-tree, containing the feed, but not half fo large. What is called the cedar is a large tall tree, which never fhades the leaf; it is white and fmcoth, but has not the leaft fmell of cedar. They ufe it chiefly in build- ing houfes ; and it makes the fined white floors, and freed from knots, of any wood I know. The leaves are like thofe of a pine, but grow in taflels, very beautiful. The cones are large, and inftead of feed, like the fir, contain a fmall nut with a ker- nel, of which the people in this country are very fond, and eat it by way of a deferr, jn place cf better fruit. It has a pleafant tafte, 1720. TO P E K I N. 307 tafte, like that of raifins, and is efteemed good for the flomach. The town of Irkutfky is fortified with a ditch, and ftrong pallifades, having towers at certain diftances. The garrifon confifU of fome regular troops, befides a number of Coflacks, or the militia of the country. The town contains about two thoufand houfes ; and the inhabitants are plentifully fupplied with provifions of all kinds front the neighbouring villages. The adjacent woods abound with variety of game, The fiver affords fturgeon, and many other kinds of fifh, but no fterlet; becaufe, as I appre- hend, they delight in muddy dreams, and the water at this place is fa clear, that, in two fathoms deep, one may fee the pebbled at the bottom. At Irkutfky is a good market for furs of all forts, and likewife for -many kinds of Chinefe goods. All mefchandife muft be entered at the cuftom-houfe in this place^ and pays a duty of ten per cent, which pro- duces 3 o8 AJOURNEY 1720. duces a confiderable revenue to his Ma- jefty. The sjth of March, our baggage arri- ved, after furmounting many difficulties on the road. They had been obliged to leave many of the fledges, after taking the baggage off them, and putting it on wheel- carriages. Our defign was to have crofled the Bay- kail Sea upon the ice, and then proceeded by land to the town of Selinginfky ; but we came too late for that purpofe. The feafon was fo far advanced, that, before our carriages arrived, the river was almoft free of ice. We were informed, indeed, that the ice upon the lake was fufficiently ftrong to bear horfes ; but, upon confidering the matter, it was thought moft advifeable to re- main here, till the ice in the fea was alfo melted, that we might go by water to Se- linginfky ; and orders were immediately given that veflels fliould be prepared for this purpofe* April TO P E K I N. 30$ April i ft, we croflfed the river, accom- panied by Mr Rakitin the commandant, in order to take a view of the country towards the fouth. We rode through fine woods of ftately oaks, and other trees, formerly men- tioned. We hunted all the way, and found abundance of game. At laft, we came to a fmall Ruffian village, in a fruitful valley, encompafled with hills covered with woods, where we lodged. Next day we went ten or a dozen miles farther, in fearch of wild beafts ; but, finding none, we returned to the fame village, and the day following to Irkutfky. The loth, we were entertained with a famous Buratfky Shaman, who was alfo lama or prieft, and was brought from a great diftance. As thefe fhamans make a great noife in this part of the world, and are believed, by the ignorant vulgar, to be infpired, I lhall give fome account of the behaviour of this one, in particular, by which it will appear that the whole is an impofition. He 316 A JOURNEY He was introduced to the ambaflador by the commandant, accompanied by feveral chiefs of his own tribe, who treat him with great refpecT:. He was a man of about thirty years of age, of a grave afpe<5t and deportment. At his introduction, he had a cup of brandy prefented to him, which he drank, but refufed any more. After fome converfation, he was defired to exhibit fome fpecimen of his art ; but he replied, he could do nothing in a Ruf- fian houfe, becaufe there were fome images of faints which prevented his fuccefs. The performance was therfore adjourned to a Buratfky tent in the fuburbs. According- ly, in the evening, we went to the place appointed, where we found the fhaman, with feveral of his companions, round a little fire, fmoking tobacco, but no women among them. We placed ourfelves on one fide of the tent, leaving the other for him and his countrymen. After fitting about half an hour, the fliaman placed himfelf crofs- legged upon the floor, clofe by a few burn- 1 * 7 2o. TO P E K I N. 311 burning coals upon the hearth, with his, face towards his companions ; then he took two fticks, about four feet long each, one in each hand, and began to fmg a difmai tune, beating time with the fticks ; all his followers joined in the chorus. During this part of the performance, he turned and diftorted his body into many different pof- tures, till at laft he wrought himfelf up to fuch a degree of fury, that he foamed at the mouth, and his eyes looked red and fta^ ring. He now darted up on his legs, and fell a dancing, like one diftracled, till he trode out the fire with his bare feet. Thefe un- natural motions were, by the vulgar, attri- buted to the operations of a divinity j and, in truth, one would almoft have imagined him poflefTed by fome daemon. After being quite fpent with dancing, he retired to the door of the tent, and gave three dreadful flirieks, by which, his companions faid, he called the daemon to direct him in anfwer- ing fuch queftions as mould be propofed. He then returned, and fat down in great com- 314 A JOURNEY 1720; compofure, telling he was ready to refolve any queftion that might be afked. Several of our people put queftions in abundance ; all which he anfwered readily, but in fuch ambiguous terms that nothing could be made of them. He now performed feve- ral legerdemain tricks, fuch as ftabbing himfelf with a knife, and bringing it up at at his mouth, running himfelf through with a fword, and many others too trifling to mention. In fhort, nothing is more e- vident than that thefe fhamans are a parcel of jugglers, who impofe on the ignorant and credulous vulgar. The 6th of April, we went to a monaf- tery, about five miles to the eaftward of this place, where we dined with the Arch- bifhop of Tobolfky. This prelate had lately come hither to vifit fome monafte- ries, and, in his way, had baptifed a num- ber of Ofteaks and other heathens. From this time, till the 8th of May, little mate- rial happened. We waited patiently for difTolving of the ice on the Baykall lake, T O P E K I N. lake, of which we expected to receive the moft certain knowledge, by means of the Boating ice on the Angara ; for, when this happens, that river is filled with floating takes, which are driven along with great fury by the wind and current. The nth, the river was now clear of ice. Our baggage was {hipped on board large flat-bottomed boats, and drawn up the ftream ; the wind being foutherly^ made the progrefs'of the boats very flow. The ambaflador, therefore, refolved to re- main at this place till he heard they had nearly reached the lake, which is about forty verft from Irkutfky. Before we left this place, Mr Kfemen- {ky, our interpreter for the Latin tongue^ died of a hectic diforder. He Was a Poliffi gentleman* and had laboured under this diftemper for fome years. VOL, I* R r a H A 314 A JOURNEY 1720. CHAP. V. From Irkutjky, crofs the Lake Bay- kall, to Selinginjky ; feme Account of the Kutuchtu, &c. THE ijth of May, the weather being very hot, we did not fet out till after dinner, when we left Irkutfky, accompa- nied by the commandant and fome other officers of the place. We rode along the north bank of the river, through pleafant woods, and fome open fields, till we came, about midnight, to a few fifhermen's huts, where we halted for a few hours, and re- peated our journey early next morning. At $720. T O P E K I N ? 315 At noon, we arrived at a fmall chapel, dedicated to St Nicolas, where travellers ufually pay their devotions, and pray for a profperous paflage over the lake. About this religious houfe there are a few fifher- men's huts. Two monks conftantly at- tend, to put people in mind of their duty, and receive a fmall gratuity from the paf- fengers. Here we found our boats waiting for us below the falls of the Angara. From hence you can fee the lake, burfting out betwixt two high rocks, and tumbling down over huge ftones, that lie quite crofs the river, which I reckon to be about an Englifh mile broad. The whole channel of the river is covered with thefe rocks, from the mouth of the lake down to the Chapel of St Nicolas, about the diftance of an Englifh mile. There is no paflage for the fmalleft boats, except along the eaft fhore, thro' a narrow ftrait, between the rocks and the land. In the moft mallow places, there is about five or fix feet water, and breadth all AJOURNEY 1720: all the way fufficient for any fmgle vef- fel. But if, by ftrefs of weather, or any o-r ther accident, a boat fhould have the mifr fortune to mifs this opening, and be thrown upon the rocks, fhe muft immediately be dafhed to pieces, and the whole crew ine- vitably perifh. The waters, darning upon the ftones, make a poife like the roaring of the fea, fo that people near them can fcarce hear one another fpeak. 1 cannot' jexprefs the awful nefs with which one i,s ilruck, at the fight of fuch aftonifhing fcenes of qature as appear round this place, and which, I believe, are not to be equalled in the known world. The pilots and fail- prs who navigate the lake'fpeak of it with much reverence, calling it the Holy Sea,, and the mountains about it the Holy Moun- tains^ and are highly difpleafed with any perfon who fpeaks of it with difrefped:, or calls it a lake. They tell a ftory of a cer- tain pilot who always gave it that appellar 4ion, but was feverely punifhed for his con- {empt. Being on a voyage in autumn, he and TO P E K I N. 317 and his crew were tofled from fide to fide of the lake, till they were half ftarved, and jn great danger of perifhing. Neceflity, at laft, forced this hardy mariner to comply with the prevailing cuftom, and pray to the Holy Sea and Mountains to have com- panion on him in fuch diftrefs. His pray- ers were effectual, and he arrived fafe to land ; but was obferved, ever after, to fpeak of the fea with the greateft refped:. The afternoon was fpent in adjufting the tacklej and preparing the barks for being flrawn up the ftrong narrow current. The iyth, the wind being contrary, and blowing pretty frefh, the pilots would no.t venture out. I, and three more of our company, took this opportunity of walk- ing up to the top of the mountains, where we had a full view of the fea, and the land to the fouth, on the other fide of it, and alfo to the weft, as far as it extends. The land on the fouth fide of the lake rifes gra- dually, till it terminates in hills moftly co- f ered with wood j but, on the weftern fhore^ A JOURNEY i 720 . fhore, there are very high mountains, feve- ral whereof are overfpread with deep fnow, which we could eafily difcern, though at a great diftance. The Baykall Sea, oppofhe to the mouth of the Selinga, is reckoned about fifty Eng- lifh miles broad, though it is much broader in fome other places, and about three hun- dred miles in length. It is wholly frefh water, and is fupplied by the Selinga, and many other rivers, from the fouth, and by the higher Angara from the eaft. The courfe of the fea is from fouth-weft to north-eaft, and has very few fhelves or rocks. There is only one large ifland, near the middle of it, called Olchon. It is bounded on the north by a ridge of high rocks, which run fiom one end of it to the ether. Th^ only opening by which it dif- charges itfelf is that into the Angara, which, though it is a natural pafiage, ap- pears as if cut through the rocks by art. Jn my opinion, one cannot imagine a more beautiful profpecT: of nature, than is feen from I 7 2o. T O P E K I N. from the top of thefe mountains, which may eafily be perceived from the fhort and imperfect fketch I have drawn of it. The woods on the fummit of the rocks are fhort, and thinly fcatteied ; but, on their declivity towards the north, and in the val- leys, the trees become gradually both taller and larger. There is abundance of game and wild beafts in thefe woods, particularly the wild boar, which was the firft of that fpecies we found in this country ; a cer- tain fign of a temperate climace ; for thefe animals cannot endure the exceffive cold in more northerly parts. The hunting of thefe animals being a dangerous kind of fport, we carefully avoided their haunts. In the evening, we returned to our barks at the chapel of St Nicolas. The Baykall is abundantly furnimed with various kinds of excellent fifh, parti- cularly fturgeon, and a fifli called omully t in ihape and tafte refembling a herring, but broader and larger. The fea produces alfo great numbers of feals, whofe fkins are pre- AJOURNEV 1725; preferred in quality to thofe of feals caught in falt-water. I am of opinion, that both the feals and fifh in the Baykall came ori- ginally from the Northern Ocean, as the communication between them is open, tho* the diftance be very great. The feals are generally caught in winter, by ftrong nets hung under the ice. The method they ufe is, to cut many holes in the ice, at certain diftances from one ano- ther, fo that the fiihermen can, with long poles, ftretch their nets from one hole to another, and thus continue them to any diftance. The feals, not being able to bear long confinement under the ice, for want of air, feek thefe holes for relief, and thus entangle themfelves in the nets. Thefe creatures, indeed, commonly make many holes for themfelves, at the fetting in of the frofb In this manner they catch, not only feals, but fifh of all kinds, in winter. The 1 8th, the wind being favourable, we put off from St Nicolas's. ' As we had workmen enough, we left part of them on board TO P E K I N. / board, to aflift the pilot, by fetting poles, while the reft were employed on fhore, in towing the barks againft a ftrong current. In about the fpace of three hours we got clear of the current, add all hands came on board. We were now quite becalmed, and obliged to take to our oars. We rowed a- long fhore to the eaftward till about noen, when we had an eafy breeze, which foon carried us two thirds over the fea, under our main-fail. The wind now chopped a- bout to the eaft, and blew fo frefh, that we could not make the river Selinga, which was the port where we intended to land. As thefe barks cannot turn to windward, we were drove about ten miles to the weft- ward of the Poflblfky monaftery, which ftands about fix miles to the weftward of the Selinga, in a pleafant and fruitful plain, furnifhing an extenfive view in all direc- tions ; where, endeavouring to get to land at any rate, we fleered into a bay, in which We fancied we faw the fhore covered with cocklesfhells or white fand. On a nearer VOL. I. S s approach, 322 A JOURNEY 1720. approach, our miftake appeared. For what feemed {hells or fand, at a diftance, was only great and fmall cakes of ice, beating with the waves againft the main body of the ice, which lay firm, and covered the whole bay. Our people, on diftinguiming the ice, immediately ftruck fail, and were in no fmall confufion. But Mr Ifmaeloff ordered the fail to be again fet, and to fteer dire&ly for the ice. In the mean time, all hands were employed in hanging boards a- bout the bow of the veflel, to prevent the cutting of the planks, and in fetting poles to pufh off the large cakes. At laft we came among the ice, which made a terrible rattling at firft ; but the farther we advan- ced, the eafier our bark lay, till we came to the main body of the ice, where fhe re- mained as unmoved as if (he had been in a mill-pond, though it ftill continued to blow hard. We now quitted the fhip, and walked about upon the ice, which was yet ftrong enough to carry horfes. By this time the fun was fet, which prevented our defign 1720. TO P E K I N. 323 defign of going afhore, for the diftance was at leaft five Englifh miles ; and there was a great gap in the ice near the place where we lay. About midnight the wind turned wef- terly, and, at break of day, we left our fta- tion, and failed to the eaftward, and, about noon, entered the river Selinga, where we found our other three barks. They ha- ving been two or three miles before us the preceding night, had time enough to reach anchoring ground, and, by this means, e- fcaped the ice, fo little expected at this fea- fon of the year. We ourfelves, before en- tering the bay, had founded, in order to difcover whether we could come to an an- chor ; but no bottom could be found, tho* we joined feveral lead-lines together, a- mounting to above one hundred and fifty fathoms. The mouth of the Selinga is furrounded with tall reeds, and contains feveral iflands. The entry into it is very difficult, except the wind be fair, becaufe of many flats and 324 A JOURNEY 1720. fand-banks, thrown up by the current of the river. Here we found great flocks of all kinds of water- fowl, particularly fnipes. The wind continuing fair, we failed up the river to a rmall oratory, dedicated alfo to St Nicolas, where all hands went afhore to return thanks for their fafe paflage. The prior of the Pofloliky monaftery came to this place to falute the ambaffador, and brought a prefent of fifh, and fuch other provifions as thefe religious houfes afford. In the evening we proceeded up the ri- ver, till night overtook us, when we hauled pur boats clofe to the bank, and lay till next morning, which was the 2oth of May. This day being calm, the barks were towed up the river ; and we walked along the banks, hunting all the way in a very plea- fant country. At night we lay by, as for-? merly. The 2 1 ft, the weather was very hot. We continued our voyage in the fame planner as before. The I 7 2o. f O P E K I N. 325 The 22d, the wind being fair, we hoift- ed fails, and in the evening arrived at a large village, well built and peopled, called Kabbanfky Oftrogue. This place is plea- fantly fituated, on a rifing ground upon the weft bank of the river, furrounded with many corn-fields and much pafturage. Here we took new hands on board- our barks, and difmiffed the former to return in open boats to Irkutfky. The 25th, we reached another large village called Bolfhoy Zaimka, fituated in a fertile country. In the neighbourhood is a fmall monaftery, and many lefler vil- lages. Many of the Buraty were en- camped, with their flocks and herds, on both fides of the river. The climate on this fide of the Baykall kke is much more temperate than on the north fide. The land produces rich crops of wheat, rye, barley, oats, buck-wheat, and peafe ; befides kitchen roots, and o- ther garden fluff. The inhabitants have not yet begun to plant any kind of fruit- trees, 326 AJOURNEY 1720. trees, which a I am perfuaded, would thrive exceedingly, as the winters are fhort, and the fnow does not lie above fix weeks or two months. The banks of the river ap- peared very pleafant, being finely varied with plains and woods. The 26th, we came to a large town, cal- led Udinfky, from the rivulet Uda, which runs into the Selinga, on the eaft bank. This place alfo ftands in a fertile plain, ha- ving hills covered with woods towards the eaft. In thefe hills are found feveral rich ores, particularly of lead ; in digging which many hands are now employed. The miners fay it is of too hard a quality ; how- ever, they have extracted confiderable quantities of filver from it ; and I have been informed that they alfo found fome veins of filver ore. As thefe works are but lately begun, it is not doubted that they are capable of great improvement, at an eafy charge, as the metal lies fo near the furface. Samples of thefe ores have been fent to St Peterfburgh 5 and, 1 am inform- ed, 1720. T O P E K I N. 327 ed, his Majefty has engaged fome German miners to make experiments upon them. Both here and on the Angara iron is to be found in great abundance at the very furface : But as the diftance is too great for exportation, it is not worth the labour. To fupply the common confumption of the country, the fmith takes his bellows, goes to the mine, and fmelts and works as much iron as he needs. I have feen fome of this iron of an excellent, foft, and pliable qua- lity. Befides the above mentioned, there are at this place very rich mines of copper. I have feen fome of the ore with large veins of pure copper running through it. I make no doubt but time and future difco- veries will bring thefe mines to perfection, to the great emolument of the Ruffian em- pire. All this country is under the jurifdidion of the commandant of Irkutiky, who fends deputies to all the towns of this extenfive province, to adminifter juftice, and take care A JOURNEY 1720, care of his Majefty's revenues. The pow- er of nominating fub-governours and com- mandants, is vefted by his Majefty in the governour of Siberia, which gives him an authority equal to a fovereign prince. The ambaffador, finding the progrefs of the boats againft the ftream very flow and tedious, being befides much peftered with gnats and mufkitoes, refolved to go by- land the reft of the way to Selinginfky : For which purpofe, the fuperintendant of this place ordered horfes, and a proper ef- cort, to be got ready againft next morning on the other fide of the river, the road on this fide being interrupted by thick woods and deep rivers. The 27th, paving fent off our barks, we crofled the river, and, having no baggage, we foon mounted. The road lay through a fine plain, covered with excellent grafs, In the evening we came to a fountain of pure water, where we lodged in the tents of the Buraty, and flept on bull-hides. The TO P E K I N. 329 The 28th, early, we proceeded, travel* ling over fome pretty high hills overgrown with wood. About no.on, we came to a river called Orongoy, which we crofled on a tall camel, it being too deep for horfes. At this place we found a number of the Buraty encamped, with their flocks gra- zing in the neighbourhood. Our horfes having fwam the river, we went into one of the Buratfky tents till they were dried. The hofpitable landlady immediately fet her kettle on the fire to make us fome tea ; the extraordinary cookery of which I cannot omit defcri- bing. After placing a large iron kettle over the fire, fhe took care to wipe it very clean with a horfe's tail, that hung in a corner of the tent for that purpofe ; then the wa- ter was put into it, and foon after fome coarfe bohea tea, which is got from China, and a little fait. When near boiling, Ihe took a large brafs ladle, and tofled the tea till the liquor turned very brown. It was now taken off the fire, and, after fubfiding VOL. I. T t 330 AJOURNEY 1720. a little, was poured clear into another vef- fel. The kettle being wiped clean with the horfe's tail as before, was again fet upon the fire. The miftrefs now prepared a pafte, of meal and frefh butter, that hung in a fkin near the horfe's tail, which was put into the tea-kettle and fried. Upon this pafte the tea was again poured, to which was added fome good thick cream, taken out of a clean fheep's fkin, which hung upon a peg among the other things. The ladle was again employed, for the fpace of fix minutes, when the tea, being remo- ved from the fire, was allowed to ftand a while in order to cool. The landlady now / took fome wooden cups, which held about half a pint each, and ferved her tea to all the company. The principal advantage of this tea is, that it both fatisfies hunger and quenches thirft. I thought it not difagree- able ; but fhould have liked it much better had it been prepared in a manner a little more cleanly. Our bountiful hoftefs, how- ever, gave us a hearty welcome 5 and as thefe 1720. TO P E K I N. 331 thefe people know not the ufe of money, there was nothing to pay for our enter- tainment. We only made her a prefent of a little tobacco to fmoke, of which thefe people are very fond. I have given this receipt with a view that fome European ladies may improve upon it. After this fhort repaft, we mounted a- gain ; and, in the evening, came to a neat Ruffian village, on the front of a pleafant hill covered with wood. This place is furrounded with extenfive valleys and fine pafturage, and our accommodation waa better than the preceding night. Here we met Mr Firfoff, colonel of the coflacks, or militia of Selinginfky, with a fquadron of horfe, armed with bows and arrows, and fome firelocks, who came to efcort the ambafTador to that place. The 2 Qth of May we mounted early, and, by means of our coffacks, hunted and ranged the woods, as we went along, in the manner of this country, called oblave in the Ruffian language. Their method is to 332 AJOURNEY to form a femi- circle of horfemen, armed with bows and arrows, in order to inclofe the game. Within the femi- circle a few young men are placed, who give notice when the game is fprung ; thefe only are permitted to purfue, the others being con- fined to keep their ranks. Our coffacks, with their arrows, killed thre.e deer, and fe- veral hares : And, if killing harmlefs ani- mals can be called diyerfion, this may pro- perly be reckoned one of the fineft. After this fafhion they hunt bears, wolves, foxes, and wild boars. About noon we came to a village on the Selinga, where we halted a few hours, and then crofled the river in boats, which was near a mile broad at this place. Our cof- facks, however, fought no boats, except one to tranfport their arms, cloaths, and fad- dies ; which being done, all of them mount- ed their horfes, and plunged into the river without the leaft concern. As foon as the horfes were fet a fwimming, for eafe to them the men which is tinged by the rich- nefs of the foil. The 26th, we proceeded. The country retained much the fame appearance, and the weather was very fine ; but not a fingle inhabitant was yet to be feen. In the eve- ning, I walked from our tents, with fome of our company, to the top of a neighbour- ing hill, where 1 found many plants of ex- cellent rhubarb j and, by the help of a flick, dug up as much of it as I wanted. On thefe hills are a great number of a- nimals called marmots, of a brownifti co- lour, having feet like a badger, and nearly of the fame fize. They make deep bur- rows on the declivities of the hills ; and it is faid, that in winter they continue in thefe holes, for a certain time, even without food. At this feafon, however, they fit or lie j 7 20. TO P E K I N. 385 lie near their burrows, keeping a ftrict watch ; and, at the approach of danger, rear themfelves upon their hind-feet, gi- ving a loud whittle, like a man, to call in the ftragglers ; and then drop into their holes in a moment. I mould not have mentioned an animal fo well known as the marmot, had it not been on account of the rhubarb- Where- ever you fee ten or twenty plants grow- ing) 7 OU are fure of finding feveral bur- rows under the fhades of their broad fpread- ing leaves. Perhaps they may fometimes eat the leaves and roots of this plant. However, it is probable the manure they leave about the roots contributes not a little to its increafe ; and their cafting up the earth makes it fhoot out young buds and multiply. This plant does not run and fpread itfdf like docks, and others of-the fame fpecies, but grows in tufts at uncer- tain diftarices, as if the feeds had been dropped with defign. It appears that the Mongalls never accounted it \vorth culti- VOL. I. 3 C vating, A JOURNEY 1720. vating, but that the world is obliged to the marmots for the quantities fcattered at random in many parts of this country ; for whatever part of the ripe feed happens to be blown among the thick grafs can very feldom reach the ground, but muft there wither and die ; whereas, fhould it fall a- mong the loofe earth, thrown up by the marmots, it immediately takes root, and produces a new plant. After digging and gathering the rhubartf, the Mongalls cut the large roots into fmali pieces, in order to make them dry more readily. In the middle of every piece they fcoop a hole, through which a cord is drawn, in order to fufpend them in any convenient place. They hang them, for moft part, about their tents, and fomedmes on the horns of their Iheep. This is a moft pernicious cuftorn, as it deftroys fome of the bed part of the root ; for all about the hole is rotten and ufelefs ; whereas, were people rightly informed how to dig and dry this plant, there would not be one pound 1720. T O P E K I N. 387 pound of refufe in an hundred, which would fave a great deal of trouble and ex- pence, that much diminifh the profits on this commodity. At prefent, the dealers in this article think thefe improvements not worthy of their attention, as their gains are more confiderable on this than on any other branch of trade. Perhaps the go- vernment may hereafter think it proper to make fome regulations with regard to this matter. I have been more particular in defcribing the growth and management of the rhu- barb ; becaufe I never met with an author or perfon who could give a fatisfactory account where, or how it grows. I am perfuaded, that, in fuch a dry climate as this, it might eafily be fo cultivated as to produce any quantity that could be want- ed. I omit any computation of the diftances of places along this road, as the whole of it from the borders to Pekin has been mea- fured by a wheel, or machine, given to the caravan 3 88 AJOURNEY 1720. caravan by the governour of Siberia for that purpofe^ I fhall afterwards fubjoin the ex- act diftances taken from this meafurement. The 2^th and 28th we purfued the fame road, over hills and through vallies : For, tho' few travel this way, the caravans, with their heavy carnages, leave fuch marks as are not foon effaced. It is only of late that the caravans travelled this road. Former- ly they went farther to the north, by a Ruffian town called Nertzinfky, and thence to a Chinefe city called Naun. That road is more convenient than the prefent, as it lies through places better inhabited ; but the prefent is fhorter, and therefore taken by moft travellers. The 29th, we reached a river called Buroy, where we lodged. At this dry fea- fon all thefe rivers are fordable ; and they abound with fturgeon and other fi(h. Next morning, Mr Venant, our chief cook, dropped down, as he was coming out of his tent, and immediately expired, not- \vithftanding all poffible care was taken for his I 7 2o. TO P E K I N. 389 his recovery. We interred him as decent- ly as time and circumftances would ad- mit, and proceeded to a river called Bor- gualty, where we pitched our tents for this night. October ift, after a long day's journey, we reached a rivulet called Koyra. The face of the country appeared nearly the fame as formerly. The 2d, after another long march, we came to the banks of the river Tola, the largeft we had feen fmce we left the Se- linga. Next day we crofled the Tola at a pretty deep ford, where the river was in breadth about the flight of an arrow at point blank. It was noon before our camels got over, and too late to proceed. We were therefore obliged to fet up our tents on the eaft bank of the river, which was over- grown with tall oziers. Here our conductor furnifhed us with frefh horfes and camels. From the bor- ders to this place our ftages were regulated by A JOURNEY 1720, by brooks and rivers, for the conveniency of getting water : And, for the fame rea- fon, as there are no rivers nor brooks from hence to the wall of China, fountains and iprings will be our only ftages. On the banks of the Tola we found many Mongalls encamped, with numerous flocks of cattle, being the firft inhabitants we had feen fince our leaving the border. The Ruffians, and the Mongalls who are fubjeds of Ruffia, claim all the country 4 weftward from the Tola, which, they fay, is the natural boundary between the two empires. This would indeed be a confi- derable addition to the dominions of Ruf- fia ; But as both thefe mighty monarchs are abundantly provided with a vaft extent of territory, neither party think it worth while to difpute about a few hundred miles of property, which obtained would perhaps not balance the coft, or contribute but lit- tle to the advantage of either. The appearance of the country was now greatly altered to the worfe. We faw no more 1 7 2o. TO P E K I N. 39 1 more pleafant hills and woods ; neither could I find one Tingle plant of rhubarb. The foil was dry and barren, and the grafs not to be compared to what we had already pafied over. The 4th, after every man had drunk his fill of the pure and wholefome water of Tola, and filled his bottle with it, we de- parted with fome regret, as we could hope for no more rivers or brooks till we came to the wall of China. We foon entered the defert commonly named by the Mongalls the Hungry Defert. How far it deferves that title, will be feen as we advance. In the evening, we reached fome pits, called Tola-tologoy, of brackifh water, where we pitched our tents. The road ftill pointed to the fouth-eaft, with little variation, over grounds that rofe a little at firft, but afterwards gradually declined* We faw many Mongalian tents and cattle difperfed along the defert. The jth, we fet out again, and, in the evening, came to fome fountains, called Ghelo- A JOURNEY 1720. Chelo-tologoy, of pretty frefh water. The country was quite level, and appeared to the eye as plain as the fea. The foil was dry, barren, and gravelly, and neither tree nor bulh to be feen ; a profpect not very agreeable, The 6th, early in the morning, we pro- ceeded eaftward, through the fame fort of flat country. The weather was very fine, and the roads excellent. In the evening, we arrived at a pool, called Tylack, of brackifti water, where we remained the following night. This day we faw feveral large flocks of antelopes, and fome Mon- galls in their tents, which was no difagree- able object in this continued plain. We pafTed few of thefe tents without vifiting them, where we always found an hofpi- table reception, and were entertained with fome zaturan, a kind of tea which I for- merly defcribed. And, if we happened to ftay till our baggage was gone out of fight, the landlord conduced us by the fhorteft way 1720. T O P E K I N. 393 xvay to the fprings that terminated the next ftage. The next day, we came to the wells called Gachun. Our bifcuit being now fpent, we were reduced to live on mutton only, during the reft of our journey thro* this defert ; which we accounted no great hardfhip, as it was extremely fine. It is not a little furprifing, that, notwithftand- ing the barren appearance of this unfhelter- ed plain, the cattle are in good condition, but particularly the fheep. The {hort grafs, though in many places thinly fcatter- ed, muft be of a very nourifhing quality. This will naturally proceed from the cli- mate, and the foil, which every where par- takes of a nitrous quality, as plainly ap- pears from the fcurf of fait round the edges of the lakes and ponds, and the tafte of the water, generally brackifh in the fprings and pits. The 8th, our conductor furnimed us with a frefh fet of cattle, which- detained us later than our ufual time of felting out. VOL. I. 3 D This 394 A JOURNEY 1720. This day, the foil was very much inclined to gravel, containing a number of red and yellow pebbles, many of which being tran- fparent, made a fine appearance while the fun fhone. We were informed there were fometimes ftones of value found here, which fo much excited our curiofity, that each of us, every day, picked up a confi- derable quantity. On examination, moft of them were thrown away, as altogether ufelefs ; the few we thought proper to re- tain were wrought into very good feals. A man might gather a bulhel of fuch ftones e- veryday in this defert. One of our people, a Grecian by birth, who underftood fome- thing of the nature of ftones, found one that he called a yellow fapphire, and valued it at fifty crowns, perhaps thefe pebbles might be of that kind which the lapidaries call cornelian ; for they are fufficiently hard, and take a fine polim. The gth, we fet out early, and travelled to a pool named Oko-toulgu. This day, a lama from the Kutuchtu, going to Pekin, r-720. TO P E K I N. 395 joined our company, who, by his habit and equipage, feemed to be a perfon of emi- nence. In marching along the tedious de- fert, the converfation turned on a terrible earthquake, which happened during the month of July laft in China, between' the long wall and Pekin, and had laid in ruins feveral villages and walled towns, and bu- ried many people in their ruins. The la- ma inquired what was the opinion of the learned men in Europe concerning the caufe of this phaenomenon. We told him, it was commonly reckoned to be fubterra- neous fire ; and then afked, in our turn, to what caufe fuch extraordinary appearan- ces were imputed by his countrymen ? He replied, that fome of their learned lamas had written, that God, after he had formed the earth, placed it on a golden frog ; and, when- ever this prodigious frog had occafion to fcratch its head, or ftretch out its foot, that part of the earth immediately above was ma- ken. There was no reafoning on a notion fo fantaftical ; we therefore left the lama to pleafe 396 A JOURNEY 1720, pleafe himfelf with his hypothefis, and turned the difcourfe to fome other fubject. The loth, we came to the fprings called Korpartu. The appearance of things this day were almoft the fame as on the prece- ding days. The foil appeared fo barren, that none of the common methods of improve- ment could make it bear any kind of grain, or even alter its prefent condition. The difpofitions of its inhabitants, the Mon- galls, feem wonderfully fuited to their fitu- ation, as they appear more contented with their condition than thofe who poflefs the inoft fruitful countries. In the evening of the nth, we arrived at Khododu, where we found the water clear, and pretty frefli, burfting, in aftrong fpring, from the gravelly earth, and run- ning in a dream to a confiderable diftance, till it lofes itfelf in the fand. This was the firft running water we had feen fince we left the Tola. And we were as happy, while fitting round this fountain, and broil- ing our mutton-chops, as others at a table plen- 1720. TO P E K I N. 397 plentifully furnifhed with Burgundy and Champaign. Our appetites were indeed very keen ; to which daily exercife> the coldnefs of the air, and drinking nothing but water, greatly contributed. Next morning, being the I2th, there was a little froft upon the ground. Seve- ral flocks of gray plovers came to drink at the fpring, of which our people killed as many as our prefent circumftances re- quired. Thefe poor harmlefs birds feemed infenfible of danger ; and, perhaps, they had never before heard the report of a gun ; for, no fooner was the piece fired, than they took a fhort flight round the foun- tain, whittling as they flew, and immedi- ately alighted to drink again. The plover is a pretty bird, and pleafant to eat ; and the foles of its feet are as hard as fo much horn, which prevent its being hurt by the ftones or gravel. In the evening, we came to the wells called Bouk-horlike, without any thing material happening, or any dif- ference on the face of the country. The 398 A JOURNEY 1720, The 1 3th, we continued our journey to the wells of Buduruy, where we were a- gain furnifhed with frefh horfes and ca- mels. The 1 4th, we came to a place called Ka- dan-Kachu, where we were obliged to dig a pit, four feet deep, in order to procure water ; which was very bad, having both a difagreeable fmell, and bitter tafte ; but was drinkable, when boiled with fome tea. We could, however, get none for our cattle, as the high wind rilled the pits with fand as faft as we could dig them. This fand is of a whitifh colour, and fo light and dry, that it is driven by the winds into your face and eyes, and becomes very dif- agreeable. Moft of our people, indeed, were provided with a piece of net-work, made of horfe-hair, which covered their eyes, and is very ufeful in drifts, cither of fand or fnow. The ijth, we travelled over deep fands; and in the evening arrived at other fprings, called Tzagan-teggerick. The wind conti- nuing TO P E K I N. 399 nuing high, it was with much difficulty we fet up our tents. It is to be obferved that, on thefe deep and light fands, our Euro- pean tents are of little ufe, as there is no earth in which the tent-pins can be fatten- ed. The Tartar tents are much preferable ; for, their figure being round and taper, like a bee-hive, the wind takes but little hold of them, and they ftand equally well on a fandy, or on any other furface. They are, befides, warmer, more eafily erected, taken down, and tranfported. The 1 6th, we left the deep fand, and travelled along the fame fort of dry gra- velly ground as formerly. In the even- ing, we pitched our tents at the fprings called Sadjin. The variety of objects, in this dreary wafte, are fo few, that in this, as well as in other refpecls, it much re- fembles the fea. Here one can fee no far- ther than if he was placed on the furface of the water, out of fight of land ; the round- ing of the globe, in both cafes, being the fame. Sometimes, in the morning, I have been 400 AJOURNEY 1720. been agreeably furprifed in fancying I faw, at a fmall diftance, a fine river, having rows of trees growing upon its banks ; but this was only a deception of the fight, pro- ceeding from the vapours magnifying fome fcattered (hrubs into great trees. The iyth, we came to fome wells of very bad water, called Oudey, where we found frefh horfes and camels waiting for us. Our conductor refolved to lofe no time, being apprehenfive that we might be overtaken in the defert by the froft and deep fnow, which ufually happen at this feafon. Such an event would have retard- ed our march, and incommoded us not a little in many refpe&s. We therefore tra- velled as long ftages, as the convenience of water, and the ftrength of our cattle, would permit. The i8th, after a long (Jay's journey, we came to the wells called Ulan-kala. We found, almoft every day, Mongalls in their tents, which flood like fo many hives, dif- perfed through this folitary plain, The -1720. T O P E K I N. 401 The i Qth, we mounted again, and tra- velled to the fprings named Tzilan-tegge- rick. This day we faw feveral flocks of antelopes ; and, indeed, few days paffed in which we did not fee fome of thefe ani- mals. The 2oth, we came to a place called Ourandabu. The weather ftill continued fair, the iky clear, and the mornings frofty. The water at this place was tolerable ; but we were obliged to dig for it. When it happened ihat we had a long ftage from one fpring to another, for fear of coming too late, we ufually fent a couple of men before us, in order to gather fewel, and to dig pits, that the water might have time to fettle before our arrival. The 2 1 ft, we proceeded, and in the e- vening arrived at a lake of fait- water. Af- ter digging, however, we found fome frefli- er. Were it not that thefe lakes and pits are fcattered through this defert, it muft have been altogether uninhabited, either by man or beaft. This confideration, among VOL. I. 3 E many 402 A JOURNEY 1720. many others, has often led me to admire the infinite wifdom of Almighty God, in the difpenfations of his providence, for the fupport of all his creatures. In my opinion, thefe fprings are produ- ced by the rains and melted fnow in the fpring ; for the water, finking in the fand, is thereby prevented from being exhaled, in fummer, by the heat of the fun, which muft be very fcorching in this defert, in which there is not the leaft fhade to be found. The 22d, we quitted the fait lake, in a cold frofty morning, and a ftrong northerly wind, which was very difagreeable. At e- vening we reached the wells of Kulat. Thefe pits take their names from the qua- lity of the water, as fait, four, fweet, bit- ter, or from the different tribes of people who inhabit the country in the neighbour- hood. In the midft of our fatigues, we had the fatisfadion to be among a friendly people, who 1726. T O P E K I N. 403 who did every thing in their power to lef- fen our wants. Next day, we reached the wells of Min- gat. The weather, though cold, was not unpleafant. And, the 24th, having got frefh horfes and camels, we came, in the evening, to a pond of brackifh water, called Korunteer, upon the extremity of a dif- mal bank of fand, running acrofs our road. The day followingj we entered on the fand-bank, along a narrow and crooked paflage between two hillocks. Every one 1 prayed for calm weather while we travelled over the fand ; which put me in mind of being at fea We continued our journey through deep fand till about noon, when all our horfes and camels being tired, we halted in a hollow place, where we dug, and found very bad water. We remained here till next morning. Our cattle being a little refrefhed, tho* they had been very indifferently fed among the fand, where nothing was to be feen but fome tufts of withered grafs, we fet out a- gain. 404 A JOURNEY 1720. gain. Along this bank there is not the lead track or path of any kind ; for the fmalleft blaft of wind immediately effaces it, and renders all the furface fmooth. We had gone but a few miles, when moft of our people were obliged to alight, and walk on foot,' the horfes being quite tired with the deepnefs of the fand ; which made our progrefs extremely flow. The weather, fortunately, was ftill very calm. About noon, we pitched our tents in a hol- low place, encompafled with high hillocks of fand. I obferved that, in the open de- fert, we had /already pafled, the profpect was much confined ; but here it was quite ftraitened ; for, if you afcended one of thefe mounts,- you could fee nothing but mount rifing above mount, like fo many fugar- loaves, or rather like fo many cupolas. In the evening it began to blow a little at north-eaft, which drove about the light fand like fnow ; but, about midnight, the wind rofe to fuch an height, that all our tents were overfet at once, and our beds filled 1720. TO P E K I N. 405 filled with fand. As it was near morning, we thought it not worth while to pitch them again. We therefore prepared our- felves to fet out at the dawn, in hopes of getting over the fand-bank before night ; which, by riding and walking by turns, in order to haften our progrefs, we happily effected ; and, in the evening, reached the fprings of Kochatu. At the place where we patted the fand, it was not above twenty Englilh miles in breadth, which took us up three days. We could have travelled four times that dif- tance on the plain, with more eafe both to ourfelves and cattle. I am informed this bank of fand runs a great way fouthward, and, in fome places, is above thirty leagues broad. They, whofe bufmefs calls them often to crofs the fands, have thin leather coats made on purpofe, and round pieces of glafs tied before their eyes. This fand-bank appears like the waves ^f the fea ; for the hillocks, fome of which are about twenty feet of perpendicular height, 406 A JOURNEY 1720. height, are of fo light a nature, that the wind carries them from place to place, le- velling one, and forming another: And hence it is eafy to conceive, that a weary traveller, lying down on the lee-fide of one of thefe hillocks, might, in a few hours, be buried in the fand ; which is reported to have often happened in this and other fandy deferts. The 28th, we proceeded along the plain to the fprings called Chabertu. I cannot but take notice of the uncommon manner the people here have of killing their fheep. They make a flit with a knife between two ribs, through which they put their hand, and fqueeze the heart till the creature ex- pire ; by this method all the blood remains in the carcafe. When the flieep is dead, and hungry people cannot wait till the flefti is regularly drefTed, they generally cut out the bifcuit and rump, wool and all, and broil them on the coals ; then fcrape off the finged wool and eat them. This I have found by experience to be no difa- greeable 1720. T O P E K I N. 407 greeable morfel, even without any kind of fauce. The next day we travelled another ftage to the wells of Saminfa, where we found better water than ufual. The length and thicknefs of the grafs fhowed that the foil now began to mend. This day there fell fome fnow, and the wind was cold and northerly. The 3Oth, we got frefli horfes, and pro- ceeded to the fprings of Krema. From the appearance of the grafs one would conclude, that the foil at this place was very fine. We faw great numbers of hor- fes belonging to the Emperor turned out to graze. Notwithftanding all the hafte we had hitherto made, we were this day over- taken by a fall of fnow, which proved very inconvenient, not fo much on account of the cold, but it covered all fewel, fo that we could find none to drefs our victuals. The 3 1 ft, we came to a place called NaringkarufTu, where, to our great fatis- fadion, we found a fmall brook of frefli water, 4 o8 A JOURNEY i 720 . water, and fome Mongalian huts. I ob- ferved, that, from the fand-bank eaftward, the foil becomes gradually better every day. This was now the fortieth day fmce we left the border ; during which time we had not halted one day, nor feen a tingle houfe, and the twentieth and eight from the time we quitted the river Tola, and entered the defert, in which we had nei- ther feen river, tree, bufh, nor mountain. Though we were obliged now and then to fetch a compafs, on account of the water- ing places, yet in general our courfe devi- ated but little from the fouth-eaft point. The i ft of November, we halted at this place, that we might have time to put things in order before we pafled the long wall, which was now at no great diftance. Next day we proceeded, and about noon we could perceive the famous wall, running along the tops of the mountains, towards the north-eaft- One of our people cried out Land, as if we had been all this while at fea. It was now, as nearly as I can compute, 1720. tO P E K I N. 409 compute, about forty Englifli miles from us, and appeared white at this diftance. We could not this night reach the paflage through the mountains, and therefore pitched our tents in the open plain as ufual. We now began to feel the effects of the cold ; for the fnow, continuing to lie upon the defert, proved very incon- venient on many accounts, but particularly by retarding the progrefs of our heavy and cumberfome baggage. But we comforted ourfelves with the hopes of foon feeing an end of all our toils, and arriving in a rich and inhabited country ; for, though all of our people were in good health, they be- gan to be very weary of the defert, and no wonder, as many of them had lain in the open field ever fince we left Selinginfky. November 3d, after travelling about an hour we pafled the veftiges of a camp, which feemed to have been regularly de- figned. I was informed that the Emperor encamped here, when he led his troops a- VOL. I. 3 F gainft 410 A JOURNEY 1720. gainft the Mongalls, called by the million* aries in China the Weftern Tartars. The nearer we came to the mountains we were the more furprifed at the fight of the fo much celebrated wall of China, com- monly called for its length the endlefs wall. The appearance of it, running from one high rock to another, with fquare towers at certain intervals, even at this diftance, is moft magnificent. About noon, xve quitted the plain, and entered an opening between two moun- tains. To the left, the mountains are very high. On the right, they decline as far as they are within view ; but, I am told, they rife again to a great height. We defcended by a narrow path about eight feet broad, between the mountains, till we came to a fmall Chinefe monaftery, fituated on the declivity of a fteep rock. Curiofity led us to vifit this folitary place : But the road being impaflable to horfes, we alighted and walked thither. On our arriving near the place, the monks came out 1720. TO P E K I N. 411 out to meet us, with the ufual friendly fa- lutation of the country, which is perform- ed by laying one of their hands on the o- ther, and then ihaking them, and pro- nouncing thefe words Cho-loy-cho. The compliment being returned, they conduct- ed us into the apartments of their little chapel, and treated us with a difh of green tea, which was very agreeable. In the chapel was a fort of altar-piece, on which were placed feveral fmall brafs images ; and, in one of the corners, I obferved a fack filled with wheat. The habit of the monks was a long gown with wide fleeves. On their heads was a fmall cap, and their long lank hair hung down over their fhoul- ders. They had very few hairs in their beards. This being 1 the firft Chinefe houfe we met with, I have en that account been more, particular in defcribing it. Every thing now appeared to us as if we had ar- rived in another world. We felt efpecial- ly a fenfible alteration in the weather ; for, inilead 412 AJOURNEY 1720. inftead of the cold bleak wind in the defert, we had here a warm and pleafant air. We again proceeded along the narrow path, but of breadth fufficient for a wheel- carriage. The road being fteep, and in many places rugged, we walked down the hill, and in half an hour came to the foot of it, where we found ourfelves furround- ed on all fides by high rocky mountains. Our route now lay along the fouth fide of a rivulet, full of great ftones, which had fallen from the rocks in rainy weather. In the cliffs of the rocks you fee little fcatter- ed cottages, with fpots of cultivated ground, much refembling thofe romantic figures of landfcapes which are painted on the China ware, and other manufactures of this coun- try. Thefe are accounted fanciful by moft Europeans, but are really natural. After we had travelled about feven or eight miles, along the bank of the brook, we came in the evening to a Chinefe vil- lage, at the foot of a high mountain, where we lodged in clean rooms, with warm fires of TO P E K I N. 413 of charcoal. There were no chimneys in the rooms ; but, inftead of thefe, the char- coal was put into a portable grate of brafs or iron, and allowed to burn clear in the open air ; after which it was brought into the apartment. Though the defert is one continued plain, it lies much higher than the plains and villages of China ; for, when we entered the defile, the afcent was very inconfiderable when compared with the defcent on the othe'r fide. Here we began to tafte of the fine fruits of China ; for foon after our arrival in the village, our conductor fent a prefent to the ambaflador of fome bafkets of fruits, con- fiding of water-melons, mufk-melons, fweet and bitter oranges, peaches, apples, walnuts, chefnuts, and feveral other forts which I never faw before, together with a jar of Chinefe arrack, provifions of feveral forts, and fome Chinefe bread, called bobon, made of wheaten flour, and baked over a pot with the fteam of boiling- water. It is very light, and not difagreeable in tafte ; at leaft 4 i4 A JOURNEY 1720. leaft it feemed fo to us, who had feen no bread for a month before. Next day we halted to refrefh ourfelves after our long fatigue. I took this oppor- tunity to walk up to the top of the moun- tain, in order to view the adjacent coun- try, but could only fee a continuation of the chain of mountains, rifmg one above another, and to the northward fome glimpfes of the long wall as it runs along them. The jth, we proceeded eaftward down the fouth bank of a river, whofe channel was covered with great ftones. The road is cut out of the rock for a confiderable length at thofe places where there is no natural pafiage between the rocks and the river, which muft have been a work of great labour. This river cannot fail to be a complete torrent in time of great rains. Having travelled about fix or eight miles, we arrived at the famous wall of China. We entered at a great gate, which is ihut every night, and always guarded by a thoufand 1720. T O P E K I N. 415 thoufand men, under the command of two officers of diftindion, one a Chinefe, and the other a Mantzur Tartar ; for it is an eftablifhed cuftom in China, and has pre- vailed ever fince the conqueft of the Tar- tars, that in all places of public truft there muft be a Chinefe and a Tartar inverted with equal power. This rule is obferved both in civil and military affairs. The Chinefe pretend, that two in an office are a fort of fpies upon one another's actions, and thereby many fraudulent practices are either prevented or detected. CHAP. 4i6 A JOURNEY CHAP. VIII. From the Wall of China to Pek'm our Entry into that City. A S foon as we had entered the gate, * * thefe two officers, and many fubal- terns, came to compliment the ambaflador on his fafe arrival ; and afked the favour of him to walk into the guard-room and drink a dim of tea. We accordingly dif- mounted, and went into a fpacious hall on the fouth fide of the gate. This apartment was very clean, having benches all around, and is kept on purpofe for the reception of perfons of diftin&ion. We were entertain- ed 1720. TO P E K I N. 417 ed with variety of fruits and confections, and feveral forts of tea. After ftaying a- bout half an hour, the ambaflador took leave of the gentlemen, and we proceeded on our journey. We travelled about four miles farther, and came to a confiderable town named Kalgan. At fome diftance from the place we were met by the com- ^ mandant, and the Mandarin Tulimin, who had paid us a vifit at Selinginfky. They accompanied the ambaflador to his lodg- ings, which were in houfes apart from the reft of the town ; and provifions were fent us in great plenty. From the wall to this place the country to the north begins to open, and contains fome 'villages, corn-fields, and gardens. The fame evening, the ambaflador and the gentlemen of the retinue were invited to fup at the commandant's houfe, and hor- fes were fent to carry us thither. We a- lighted in the outer- court, where the com- mandant in perfon waited for us, and conducted us through a neat inner-court VOL. I. 3 G into 4 i8 A JOURNEY 1720. into a hall, in the middle of which flood a large brafs chaffing- dim, in fhape of an urn, with a fire of charcoal in it. The floor was covered with mats, and the room quite fet round with chairs, and little fquare japan- ned tables. The ambaffador fat at a table by himfelf, and the reft of the company at feparate tables, by two and two. We were firft entertained with tea, and a dram of hot arrack ; after which fupper was brought, and placed on the tables, without either ta- ble-cloth, napkins, knives, or forks. In- ftead of forks were laid down to every per- ibn a couple of ivory pins, with which the Chinefe take up their meat. The dimes were fmall, and placed upon the table in the moft regular manner, the vacancies being rilled with faucers, containing pickles and bitter herbs. The entertainment con- fifted of pork, mutton, fowls, and two roafted pigs. The carver fits upon the floor, and executes his office with great dexterity. He cuts the flefh into fuch frnall bits, as may eafily be taken up by the guefts, 1720. TO P E K I N. 419 guefts, without further trouble. The meat being cut up is given to the footmen, who fupply the empty difhes on the tables. The whole is ferved in China-ware, and neither gold nor filver is to be feen. All the fer- vants perform their duty with the utmoft regularity, , and without the leaft noife. I muft confefs, I was never better pleafed with any entertainment. The victuals being removed, the defert was placed on the tables in the fame order, and cdnfifted of a variety of fruits and gon- fections. In the mean time a band of mu- fic was called in, which confided of ten or twelve performers, on various but chiefly wind-inftruments, fo different from thofe of that clafs in Europe, that I fhall not pre- tend to defcribe them. The mufic was accompanied with dancing, which was very entertaining. The dancers were nearly as numerous as the muficians. Their per- formances were only a kind of gefticula- tion, confiding of many ridiculous pof- tures ; for they feldom moved from the fame 420 A JOURNEY 1720. fame place. The evening being pretty far fpent, we took leave, and returned to our lodgings. The 6th, a great fall of fnow, and a cold frofty wind, obliged us to halt at this place. Next day, the froft and fnow ftill conti- nued ; notwithstanding we fet out, and pafled over a ftone-bridge near this place, paved, not with fmall ftones, but with large, fquare, free ftones, neatly joined. After travelling eaftward about thirty En- glifh miles, we reached a large and popu- lous city called Siang-fu. We were met without the gate by fome of the principal inhabitants, and conducted to our lodg- ings. When we arrived, the governour was out a- hunting with one of the Emperor's fons. As foon as he returned in the evening, he waited on the ambaflador, and compli- mented him in a very polite manner, ex- cufir.g himfelf for not waiting on him foon- er. At iht fame time, he gave his Excel- lency T O P E K I N. 421 lency a formal invitation to fupper ; for it is appointed by the court that foreign am- bafladors ftiould be magnificently enter- tained in all the towns through which they pafs : But the ambaflador, being fomewhat indifpofed, defired to be excufed. Our route this day was through a fine champaign country, well cultivated, but containing very few trees. We paffed fer veral fmall towns, and many villages, well built, and inclofed with walls. The roads were well made, and in good order, run- ning always in ftraight lines where the ground will allow. I had heard a great deal of the order and oeconomy of thefe people, but found my information far fhort of what I daily faw in all their works and actions. The ftreets of every village run in ftraight lines. Upon the road we met with many tur- rets, called poft-houfes, erected at certain diftances from one another, with a flag- ftaff, on which is hoifled the imperial pen- dant. Thefe places are guarded by a few foldiers, 422 A JOURNEY 1720. foldiers, who run a-foot from one poft to another with great fpeed, carrying letters or defpatches that concern the Emperor. The turrets are fo contrived as to be in fight of one another ; and, by fignals, they can convey intelligence of any remarkable event. By this means the court is inform- ed, in the fpeedieft manner imaginable, of whatever difturbance may happen in the moft remote provinces of the empire. Thefe pofts are alfo very ufeful, by keeping the country free from highwayman ; forfhould a perfon efcape at one houfe, on a fignal being made, he would certainly be flopped at the next. The diftance of one poft- houfe from another is ufually five Chinefe H or miles, each li confiding of five hun- dred bow lengths. I compute five of their miles to be about two and an half En- glifh. The 8th, we halted at this place. As we could not be prefent at the entertain- ment to which we were invited laft night by the governour, he had refolved that the delicacies I 7 ao. TO P E K I N. 423 delicacies prepared on that occafion fhould not be loft, and therefore fent into our court twelve tables, whereon were placed, by a number of people, all the victuals that were drefled the preceding night with the defert, and feveral forts of tea. The whole was afterwards brought into the hall, and there placed in form upon the tables. When this was done, an officer of diftinc- tion came to defire the ambafTador to tafte of his Imperial Majefty's bounty. We ac- cordingly fat down at the tables in great order. Every thing was very good, but moftly cold, having been carried through the ftreets to fome diftance. After we had removed from the table, the perfon who had the direction of the entertainment, called our fervants, and ordered them to fit down at the tables and eat. This produced a very diverting fcene ; but, had it not been complied with, the governour would have thought himfelf highly affronted. In the evening, the Emperor's third fon went through this city, on his way towards the 424 A JOURNEY the capital. He was carried upon mens fhoulders in a palankin, a vehicle very eafy for the traveller, and well known in Euro- pean fettlements in India. The Emperor's fons have no other names than thofe of firft, fecond, third, &c. This prince had only a fmall retinue of a few horfemen. Our new conductor, Tulifhin, invited the ambaflador and his retinue to pafs the evening at his lodgings. His Excellency excufed himfelf, as he had not been at the governour's. All the gentlemen, however, accepted the invitation. The entertain- ment was elegant, and fomething like that I formerly defcribed, accompanied with dancing and mufic, and quail- fighting. It is furprifing to fee how thefe little birds fly at one another as foon as they are fet upon the table, and fight, like game-cocks, to death. The Chinefe are very fond of this diverfion, and bet as high on their quails as the Englifh do on cccks. They are alfo great lovers of cock-fighting ; but it is reckoned among the vulgar fports. The quails 1720. TO P E K I N. 425 quails are generally parted before they hurt one another too much, and referved in cages till another occafipn. The 9th, having fent off the baggage in the morning, the ambaflador returned the governour's vifit. We only flaid to drink tea ; after which we immediately mount- ed, and purfued our journey to a fmall town called Juny, where we arrived in the evening. Near this place is "a deep rock, ftariding on a plain, inacceffibleon all fides, except to the weft, where a narrow wind- ing path is cut in the rock, which leads to a Pagan temple and nunnery built upon the top of it. Thefe edifices make a pretty appearance from the plain ; and, as the ftory goes, were built from the foundation in one night by a lady, on the following occafion. This lady was very beautiful, virtuous, and rich, and had many powerful princes for her fuitors. She told them, me intended to build a temple and a mona- fiery of certain ciimenfions, with her own hands, in one night, on the top of this VOL. 1. 3 H rock ; 426 A JOURNEY 1720, rock ; and whoever would undertake to build a ftone-bridge over a river in the neighbourhood, in the fame fpace of time, him (he promifed to accept for a hufband. All the lovers having heard the difficult tafk impofed on them, returned to their re- fpecYive dominions, except one ftranger, who undertook to perform the hard con- dition. The lover and the lady began their labour at the fame time, and the lady completed her part before the light appear- ed ; but as foon as the fun was rifen, fhe faw from the top of the rock, that her lo- ver had not half-finimed his bridge, ha- ving raifed only the pillars for the arches. Failing, therefore, in his part of the performance," he alfo was obliged to depart to his own country ; and the lady pafied the remainder of her days in her own monaftery. The river is about a quarter of a mile from the rock, and the pillars ftill remain about five or fix feet above the water ; they are fix or eight in number, and godd lubftantial I 7 ao. T O P E K I N. 427 jfubftantial work. This tale I relate as a fpecimen of many fabulous ftories, which I heard every day, and the people firmly be- lieve. In the monaftery there are at pfe- fent many m.onks and nuns. The chain of mountains running to the north, which bound this plain to the weft, are .very high, rugged, and barren. Their breadth from the defert to the plain habi- table country of China, I compute not to exceed fifteen or twenty miles, and in ma- ny places it is much lefs. But their length, lam informed, is above one thoufand En- glim miles. They encompafs all, or the greateft part of the empire of China, to the north and weft. Thefe impregnable bul- warks, together with the almoft impaflable deferts, have, in my opinion, fo long pre- ferved this nation from being over-run by the weftern heroes. One would imagine, that a country, fo fortified by nature, had little need of fuch a ftrong wall for its de- fence ; for, if all the pafles of the moun- tains are as narrow and difficult as that where 428 AJOURNEY 1720. where we entered, a fmall number of men might defend it againft a mighty army. Jimy is but a fmall place ; it fuffered greatly by the earthquake that happened in the month of July the preceding year, above one half of it being thereby laid in ruins. Indeed, more than one-half of the towns and villages through which we tra- velled this day had fuffered much on the fame occafion, and vaft numbers of people had been buried in the ruins. I muft con- fefs, it was a difmal fcene to fee every where fuch heaps ofrubbifh. All the beft houfes being thrown down by the earthquake, we were lodged in the priefts apartments of a temple, which had efcaped the general devaluation. Our con- ductor treated the monks with very Jittle ceremony, and deflred them to feek other lodgings for themfelves. Thefe priefts were not at all fuperftitious, as appeared fufliciently from the little reverence they paid to their idols, and ftatues of reputed faints. They conducted us into the temple, 1720. TO P E K I N. temple, and feveral apartments adjoining, where flood many images of faints, fome of which were monftrous figures of flone and plaifter. One of the priefts gave us the hiftory of fome of them, which I thought too abfurd to be inferted. We then returned into the temple, which was a fmall but neat building. In one end of it we faw an altar, rifing by fteps to the cieling, on which were placed a number of fmall images, caft chiefly in brafs, re- fembling men and women, birds and hearts. We were entertained in the temple with tea till the priefts had removed their beds. At the entrance is hung a large bell, at- tended by a prieft, who tolls it on feeing paflengers, in order to invite them to fay their prayers ; which having done, they generally leave a fmall gratuity to the temple. In the night, we were a little alarmed with the fliock of an earthquake, which awakened all our people, but did no da- mage. Next 4-jo A JOURNEY 1720. Next day, our conductor notified to the ambafiador, that he could proceed no far- ther till he received an anfwer to fome defpatches he had fent to court. Thefe news were not altogether agreeable, as we apprehended another fhock of an earth- quake. Nothing, however, of that kind happened during the two days we were obliged to remain at this place. The 1 2th, we continued our journey to a little town, where we lodged. This, and moft of the towns and villages through which we pafled to day, had fuffered great- ly by the earthquake ; particularly one confiderable walled town, where very few houfes remained, and the walls were level- led with the ground. About noon, next day, we came to a large* populous, and well built city, with broad ftreets, as ftraight as a line. Near this place runs a fine river, which appears navigable, having acrofs it a noble ftone bridge, of feveral arches, and paved with large fquare ftones. In the evening, we arrived * 7 2ol tO P- E K I NT. 431 1 arrived at a fmall town, after paffing through a very pleafant and fruitful coun- try. On the J4th, we halted at this little town : But our baggage, and his Majefty's prefents, advanced a ftage farther. . Thefe, by order of the Mandarin, our conductor, were carried on men's fhoulders, covered with pieces of yellow filk, as every thing is which hath any connection with the court. Whatever is diftinguifhed by this badge is looked on as facred ; and he who has the care of any thing belonging to the Empe- ror needs no other protection ; fuch is the reverence paid him all over the empire. The yellow colour is chofen by the Empe- ror, becaufe, among the Chinefe, it is the emblem of the fun, to which he is com- pared. The following day, our road, lying over fome rocks, was very rugged. In fome places it was cut, for a confiderable length, above twenty feet deep, through the folid jock, which appears to have been a work of A JOURNEY 1720, of great labour and expence. But no people I ever faw take fuch pains to make their ftreets and high-ways eafy to travel- lers as the Chinefe. In fome places of the rocks were cut out images of Chinefe faints ; but the workmanmip very mean. Near this place, we pafTed through fix or eight ftrong femicircular walls within one another, which have the endlefs wall for their common diameter, and take in a great compafs. In all thefe walls there are large well built gates, guarded by a con- ftant watch, both in times of peace and war. At one of them, the ambaflador was faluted with three great guns, from a tower over the gate-way. Thefe walls feem to be of the fame materials and architecture with the long wall, having fquare towers at the diftance of a bow-mot from each other. While we flopped at one of the gates to refrefh ourfelves, I took the op- portunity to walk into one of thefe towers, where I faw fome hundreds of old iron cannon thrown together as ufelefs. On examination I 7 2o. T O P E K I N. 433 examination I found them to be compofed of three or four pieces of hammered iron, joined, and faftened together with hoops of the fame metal. The Chinefe have, however, now learned to caft as fine brafs cannon as are any where 'to be found. From this tower I was led, by a broad ftone ftair, to the top of the wall, which is above twenty feet ,jn breadth, and paved with large fquare ftones, clofely joined, and cemented with ftrong mortar. I walk- ed along this flat, till I came to a rock, where I found a high ftair of above a thoufand fteps, the whole breadth of the wall, which led to a tower on the fummit, from whence I could fee like a ftair, on the other fide, forming a defcent to a nar- row paflage between two rocks. 1 obferved alfo, that the wall was neither fo high nor broad where it was carried over another rock to the fouth-weft, as at the place where I ftood. But time not allowing me to go farther, I returned by the fame way to our company ; and, after (laying a few hours, VOL. I. 3 I we 434 A JOURNEY 172. we proceeded this afternoon to the town of Zulinguang, where we lodged. The next day, after travelling about two hours, we came to the laft femicircular wall. Here ended all the hills and moun- tains. Our road now lay through a fine champaign country, interfperfed with many fmall towns and villages. In the even- ing, we reached a large . neat city, called Zang- ping' jew. In the market place flood a triumphal arch, whereon were hung a number of dreamers, and filken pendants, of various colours. The ftreets were clean, ^ilraight, and broad ; in fome places cover- . ed with gravel, in others paved with flat fquare (tones. * r As foon as we reached our lodgings, the governour of the place came to felute the ambaflador, and invited him to an enter- tainment, prepared by order of his Ma- jefty. The invitation was accepted, and we im- mediately went to the governour's palace. The entertainment was very magnificent, fome- 1720. TO P E K I N. 435 fomewhat of the fame kind with that I for- merly defcribed, and accompanied with mufic and dancing. This place is fituated in a fruitful plain, about thirty Englifh miles northward of Pekin. The 1 7th, after travelling about a dozen bf miles* we came to a fmall town called Shach. The weather being very fine and warm, the governour came to meet the ambaflfador, and defired him to refrefh himfelf a little, by drinking tea. Here we halted about an hour, and then proceeded fix or eight miles farther, to a fmall vil- lage, about four miles from the capital, where we lodged. Next morning, two mandarins came from court, to congratulate the ambaflador on his arrival, and brought fome horfes, on which he and his retinue were to make their entry. The furniture of the horfes was very fimple, and far inferior to the coftly trappings of the Perfians. My lodgings in this village happened to be at a cook's houfe, which gave me an oppor- 436 A JOURNEY 1720. opportunity of obferving the ingenuity of thefe people, even on trifling occafions. My landlord being in his (hop, I paid him. a vifit* where I found fix kettles, placed in a row on furnaces, having a feparate open- ing under each of them, for receiving the fewel, which confifted of a few fmall flicks and ftraw. On his pulling a thong, he blew a pair of bellows, which made all his kettles boil in a very mort time. They are indeed very thin, and made of cad iron, being extremely fmooth, both within and without. The fcarcity of fewel, near fuch a populous city, prompts people to con- trive the eafieft methods of dreffing their victuals, and keeping themfclves warm du- ring the winter, which is fevere for two months. About ten of the clock, we mounted, and proceeded towards the city, in the fol- lowing order : An 1720. TO P E K I N. 437 An officer, with his fword drawn. Three foldiers. One kettle-drummer. Twenty- four foldiers, three in rank. The fteward. Twelve footmen. Two pages. Three interpreters. The ambaflador, and a mandarin of di- ftinction. Two fecretaries. Six gentlemen, two and two. Servants and attendants. The whole retinue was drefied in their beft apparel. The foldiers in uniform, carrying their mufkets like horfemen ftand- ing centry ; drawn fwords being refufed by our conductor, the officer only had that privilege. We travelled from the village, along a fine road, through a cloud of duft, and multitudes of fpe&ators ; and, in two hours, entered the city at the great north gate; A JOURNEY 1726. gate ; which opened into a fpacious ftreet, perfectly ftraight, as far as the eye-fight could reach. We found it all fprinkled with water, which was very refrefhing, after the duft we had pafled through. A guard of five hundred Chinefe horfe- men was appointed to clear the way ; not- withftanding which, we found it very dif- -ficult to get through the crowd. One would have imagined all the people in Pe- kin were aflembled to fee us ; though I was informed that only a fmall part of the in- habitants of the city were prefent. I ob- V ferved alfo great crowds of women unveil- ed ; but they kept in the windows, doors, and in corners of the ftreet. The foldiers did not behave with roughnefs to the peo- ple, as in fome other places of the eaft, but treated them with great mildnefs and hu- manity. Indeed the people, of themielves, made as much way as was pofiible for them, confidering their numbers. After a march of two hours, from the gate where we entered, we atlaftcameto our lodgings, in TO P E K I N. 439 in that part of the city called the Tartar's town, which is near the center of Pekin, and not far from the Emperor's palace. We lodged in what is called the Ruffia- houfe. It was allotted, by the prefent Em- peror, for the accommodation of the cara- vans from Mofcovy, and is furrounded with a high wall of brick, which inclofes three courts. The firft from the ftreet is appointed for the guard of Chinefe foldiers. The fecond is a fpacious fquare, on the fides whereof are apartments for fervants. The third is divided from the fecond by a high brick-wall, thro' which you enter by a great gate. Oppofite to this gate is the great hall, which rifes^a few fteps above the level of the court. The floor is neatly paved with white and black marble ; and, on the fame floor, to the right and lefc of the hall, are two fmall bed-chambers. This hall was occupied by the ambaflador. In the fame court are two large houfes, -divi- ded into apartments, in which the retinue was lodged. All thefe ftru&ures are but of one 440 A JOURNEY 1720. one ftorey, with large windows of lettice- work, on which is pafted white paper. Tht cielings are very flight and airy, confifting only of ftrong laths, with reeds laid acrofs them, and done over on the infide with paper. The roofs project confiderably o- ver the walls, and are covered with fine light glazed tiles, which, as far as I could learn, are of a quality to laft ages. The bed-chambers only of the hall are neatly finimed with lath and plaifter. The fame evening, the mafter of the ce- remonies came to compliment' the ambaf- fador. He, in the Emperor's name, inqui- red into the chief fubjet of his commif- flon ; and, having received a fatisfactory anfwer, retired. This gentleman, named Aloy, was by birth a Mongall Tartar, and a great favou- rite of the Emperor. He was a perfon of great politenefs, and a good friend to the Chriftians, efpecially the miflionaries, who received frefli marks of his kindnefs every day. In his youth he converfed much with " the . TO P E K I N. 441 the Jefuits, who taught him geography, and fome other branches of fcience ; which contributed not a little to raife his charac- ter among the Chinefe, and recommend him to the notice and favour of the Em- peror. Thus, we happily arrived at the famous and long wimed for city of Pekin, the ca- pital of this mighty empire, after a tedious journey of exactly fixteen months. It is indeed very long, yet may be performed in much lefs time. I am of opinion that tra- vellers might go from St Peterfburgh to Pekin, and return, in the fpace of fix months, which, were it neceflary, I think I could eafily demonftrate. After the departure of the mafter of the ceremonies, the aleggada, or prime minifter, fent an officer to falute the ambafiador, and excufe himfelf for not paying him a vifit immediately, as it was then late in the night, but promifed to fee him next day. At the fame time, he fent great variety of fruits and provifions, as a mark of refpect^ VOL. I. 3 K not- 442 A JOURNEY 172*. notwithftanding we were abundantly fup- plied with thefe things by thofe appointed for that purpofe. At ten of the clock at night, the officer on guard in the outer- court locked our gate, and fealed it with the Emperor's feal, that no perfon might go out or come in during the night. The ambafifador, not approving of this proceeding, as foon as the gate was opened in the morning, fent his fecretary, and an interpreter, to the prime minifter, to complain of his being confined. The aleggada faid he was alto- gether ignorant of what had happened, but exprefsly forbid any fuch behaviour for the future. In Perfia, indeed, and fome other nations of the eaft, it is the cuftom to re- ftrain foreign minifters from converfing with the inhabhants, tillthey have had an audience of the Prince. (**~ 3 ZND OF VOLUME FIRSTr University of California SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 405 Hilgard Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90024-1388 Return this material to the library from which, jt was borrowed. QUAN 2 J UCLAJTRL ILL DUE:' MAR 2ll 2D06 UCLA ACCESS SE Interlibrary Loan 11 630 University 8ox961575 j Angeles, CA 2 RVk:FS Library 003b 1575 A A 000000675 9