u 
 
 N4
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 FROM 
 
 ST. PETERSBURGH 
 
 I N 
 
 RUSSIA,, 
 
 T O 
 
 VARIOUS PARTS 
 
 O F 
 
 ASIA. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED WITH MAPS* 
 
 IN TWO VOLUMES. 
 
 BY JOHN BELL, 
 
 OF ANTERMONY. 
 
 VOLUME FIRST. 
 
 EDINBURGH: 
 
 PRINTED FOR WILLIAM CREECH, 
 
 AND SOLD BY 
 GEO. ROBINSONS AND CO. LONDON. 
 
 MDCCLXXXVIII,
 
 I s 
 
 T T H E 
 
 GOVERNOUR, 
 COURT OF ASSISTANTS, 
 AND FREEMEN, 
 
 OF THE 
 
 RUSSIA COMPANY, 
 
 AND TO THE 
 
 BRITISH FACTORIES 
 IN RUSSIA, 
 
 THE FOLLOWING 
 
 RELATION OF TRAVELS, &c. 
 
 Are refpe&fully infcribed, 
 As a teftimony of gratitude, 
 For the favours received, 
 From many of them, 
 By their mod obedient, 
 
 And very humble fervant, 
 ANTERMONY, ~) 
 t. i. 1762. 
 
 THE AUTHOR. 
 
 894034
 
 THE 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 I 
 
 N my youth I had a ftrong defire 
 of feeing foreign parts ; to fatisfy 
 which inclination, after having obtained, 
 from fome perfons of worth, recommen- 
 datory letters to Dr Arefkine, chief phyfi- 
 cian and privy-counfellor to the Czar Peter 
 the Firft, I embarked at London, in the 
 month of July 1714, on board the Profpe- 
 rity of Ramfgate, Captain Emerfon, for St 
 Peterfburgh. On my arrival there, I was 
 received by Dr Arefkine in a very friend- 
 ly manner ; to whom I communicated my 
 
 intentions
 
 vi PREFACE. 
 
 intentions of feeking an opportunity of vi- 
 fiting fome parts of Afia, at leaft thofe 
 parts which border on Ruffia. Such an 
 opportunity foon prefented itfelf, on occa- 
 fion of an embafTy, then preparing, from 
 his Czarifh Majefty to the Sophy of Per- 
 fia. 
 
 Artemy Petrovich Valenfky, a gentle- 
 man of a family of diftinction, and a Cap- 
 tain of the guards, was appointed ambafla- 
 dor by his Majefty. Upon his nomination, 
 he applied to Dr Arefkine to recommend a 
 perfon who had fome knowledge in phyfic 
 and furgery, . to go in his fuite in the em- 
 bafly. As I had employed fome part of 
 my time in thofe ftudies, the Dodor re- 
 commended me ; which he did in fo cor- 
 dial a manner, as produced to me, from the 
 ambaflador many marks of friendship and 
 regard, which fubfifted not only during 
 the journey, but alfo continued, from that 
 time, to the end of his days. The Doclor, 
 at the fame time, recommended me to the 
 college of foreign affairs at St Peterfburgh, 
 
 by
 
 PREFACE. <vii 
 
 by whom I was engaged in the fervice of 
 Peter the Fir ft. 
 
 Having acquainted the reader with the 
 manner of my entering on the travels, 
 which are the principal fubject of the fol- 
 lowing fheets, I fhall take, the liberty to 
 fay, that I have, through the whole, given 
 the obfervations, which then appeared to me 
 worth remarking, without attempting to 
 embellifti them, by taking any of the liber- 
 ties of exaggeration, or invention, fre- 
 quently imputed to travellers. 
 
 I took notes of the fubjecl: of the fol- 
 lowing treatife, by way of diary, from time 
 to time, during the courfe of my travels, 
 intending nothing further, at that time, 
 than to keep them as helps to my memory, 
 that I might, as occafion offered, commu- 
 nicate, in converfation with my friends, 
 what I had obferved worth remarking, and 
 that I might be capable of giving informa- 
 tion to others, who might be defirous of it, 
 on their being to make the fame journies. 
 
 About
 
 viii PREFACE. 
 
 About four years ago, fpending fome 
 days at the houfe of a Right Honourable 
 and moft honoured friend, the fubject of 
 my travels took up a great part of our con- 
 verfation ; during which, upon his inqui- 
 ring occafionally, whether I had taken any 
 notes of the places, &c. through which I 
 had pafled in my feveral journeys ? and, 
 upon my anfwering in the affirmative, he 
 was pleafed" to take fome pains to engage 
 me to promife that I would collect my 
 notes and obfervations,, and form them into 
 journals, as complete ,as the time elapfed 
 would admit, and communicate them to 
 the world. 
 
 It was not without reluctance that I fet 
 about this work, which, had I thought it 
 worth the public's acceptance and perufal, 
 I would have done long ago. Such as it 
 is, I now offer it to them ; and flatter my*- 
 felf, (with hopes at leaft), that the plain- 
 nefs of ftile in which it is written will be 
 of no prejudice to it with candid readers, 
 who may find in it fome things new, and 
 
 of
 
 PREFACE. i* 
 
 of which they would choofe to be inform- 
 ed. 
 
 In regard to the tranflation of Mr De 
 Lange's Journal, I have given it for two 
 reafons : Firft, bccaufe it continues the ne- 
 gotiation begun by Mr De Ifmayloff, in the 
 courfe of which Mr De Lange furnifhes 
 the reader with a diftint detail of the man- 
 ner of tranfa&ing affairs with the minifters 
 of ftate, of their chicaneries, &c. at the 
 court of Pekin. Secondly, becaufe I do 
 not apprehend it hath ever appeared in the 
 Englifh language ; at leaft, have made 
 what inquiries I couldj to find if it had 
 been tranflated, which have been all fruit- 
 lefs. 
 
 As I well knew the worthinefs and inte- 
 grity of Mr De Lange, and 1 am fully per- 
 fuaded that his Journal was genuine, tho* 
 perhaps obtained furreptitioufly by the edi- 
 tor, I have clofed the tranflation with the 
 end of Mr De Lange's Journal, on his arri- 
 val at Selinginfky on the frontiers of Sibe- 
 ria ; having omitted an addition to it, 
 b made
 
 K PREFACE. 
 
 made by the editor, of the trade and mo- 
 nies of China ; concerning which, the edi- 
 tor, when he enters upon it, acquaints the 
 reader that he had not the means neceflary 
 for fufficient information. For the reft, 
 the tranflation is juft, as may be feen by 
 comparing it with the original. 
 
 Auchtermony, 
 P<3. i. 1762 
 
 :J 
 
 JOHN BELL. 
 
 I
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 VOLUME FIRST. 
 
 A Journey from St Peterfburgh in Ruffia^ 
 to Ifpahan in Perfia Page xr 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 From St Peter/burgh to Cazan p. I 
 
 G H A P. II. 
 
 Occurrences during our Jlay at Cazan ; our 
 journey thence to djlrachan p. ig 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 Occurrences during our Jlay at Aftrachan ; 
 our jdurney thence to Shamachy p. 40 
 
 G H A P,
 
 xii CONTENTS, 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 Occurrences during our ftay at Shamachy 
 our journey thence to Tauris />. 69 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 
 Occurrences during ourjlay at Tauris ; our 
 
 journey thence to Iff ah an p. 87 
 
 CHAP. VL 
 
 Occurrences during our Jlay at Ifpahan 
 
 t>- "3 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 \ 
 
 From Ifpahan to Shamachy ; occurrences du- 
 ring pur Jlay there p. 1 5 i 
 
 CHAP. VIII.
 
 CONTENTS. *iiJ 
 
 A Journey from St Peterfburgh in Ruffia, 
 to Pekin in China p. 183 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 From St Peter/burgh to Tobolfky, the Ca- 
 pital of Siberia p. 185 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 Occurrences at T'obolfky obfervations on the 
 Kalmucks^ <&c. and journey continued to 
 Tomfky />. 220 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 Occurrences at Tom/ky ; obfervations on the 
 Tzulim Tartars^ &c. and journey conti- 
 nued to Elimjky p. 252 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 Observations on lakutjky and Kamtzatjky, 
 <&c. ; journey continued to Irkutjky ; and 
 occurrences there p. 233 
 
 G H A P.
 
 *iv CONTENTS* 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 I 
 
 From Irkutjky, crofs the Lake Bdykall, to 
 
 Selinginfky ; fome account of the Kutuch- 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 Occurrences at Selinginfky ; feveral parties 
 of hunting ; and journey continued to Sa- 
 ratzyn^the boundary betiveen the Ruffian 
 and Chinefe territories p. 34$ 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 from paffing the Saratzyn, and entering tht 
 Chinefe territories^ to our arrival at the 
 wall of China /> 380 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 from the 'wall of China to Pekin ; our entry 
 into that city />. 416
 
 JOURNEY 
 
 FROM 
 
 ST. PETERSBURG!! 
 IN RUSSIA, 
 
 T O 
 
 ISPAHAN 
 
 IN PERSIA. 
 
 PETER THE FIRS 1 ?, 
 
 TO THE 
 
 SHACH HUSSEIN 5 
 
 IN THE YEAR MDCCXV.
 
 Names of the principal perfons *who compo- 
 fed the train of the Ambaffador 
 
 Artemii Petrovich Valenfky, viz. 
 
 Secretary, 
 Gregory Chriftopher Venigerkind, 
 
 Captain Engineer, 
 Jaques de Villette. 
 
 Gentlemen of the Embaffy, 
 Matphe Parfilich Kartzoff, 
 Adrian Ivanovich Lopuchin, 
 The Author of this Journal. 
 
 Prieft, 
 Hylarion, a Monk. 
 
 Interpreters, 
 Vaffile KurdefFsky, 
 Alexie Tulkatzoff, 
 Pemetry Petritz. 
 
 Clerks or Writers, 
 Vaffile Shadayoff, 
 Alexie Buchtaryoff. 
 
 With many others, viz. a band of mufic, confifting 
 of trumpets, ket.tle-drums, violins, hautboys, &c. car- 
 penters, fmiths, taylors, valets, and footmen ; amount- 
 ing in all to above one hundred performs ; befides a 
 troop of twenty-five dragoons for our efcort, from Iftra- 
 chan to Ifpahari.
 
 FROM 
 
 ST PETERSBURGH 
 
 T O 
 
 ISPAHAN. 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 From Sf Peterfburgh to Cafan. 
 
 ON the fifteenth of July 1715, I fet 
 out from St Peterfburgh, in com- 
 pany with Meflieurs Venigerkind, De Vil- 
 lette, and Kurdeffsky. That city, which 
 has fince grown fo confiderable, was then 
 in its infancy, having been founded, ten or 
 eleven years before, by that truly great 
 VOL, I. man
 
 ft AJOURNEY 
 
 man Peter the firft, to whom no under- 
 taking feemed difficult. , 
 
 St Peterfburgh is fituated in fixty degrees 
 north latitude, partly on the continent of 
 Ingria and Carelia, and partly on different 
 iflands formed by the river Neva, which 
 difcharges itfelf, by four channels, into the 
 Gulf of Finland, a little below the city. It 
 is defended by a ftrong caftle, built with 
 ftone and brick, inacceffible to {hips of 
 force, there being but eight feet water on 
 the bar. As the Czar had determined to 
 form a city all at once, and not to truft to 
 time for the growth of a place which he 
 had chofen for the feat of government, he 
 aflembled inhabitants from every province 
 of his empire, and allured ftrangers from 
 moft parts of Europe ; fo that the place 
 was even well peopled, and had not the 
 appearance of a city fo lately founded. 
 
 The adjacent country is generally cover- 
 ed with woods, confiding of various kinds 
 of pines, birch, alder, afpine, and other 
 trees natural to the northern climates. 
 
 To
 
 TO ISPAHAN. J 
 
 To the fouthward, efpecially along the 
 fliore towards Peterhoff, the country in 
 iummer is very pleafant, with country- 
 feats, corn- fields, and meadows interfper- 
 fed. 
 
 The river Neva falls out of the Ladoga 
 Lake at Sluflelburgh, a ftrong caftle, about 
 fixty verft above St Peterfburgh. It is a 
 noble flream of clear, wholefome water, 
 with this peculiar quality, that it is feldom 
 muddy. It contains a great variety of ex- 
 cellent fifh, which fupply the market all 
 the year, .and is navigable to the Ladoga 
 by flat- bottomed veflels. 
 
 The woods on each fide are ftored with 
 game ; fuch as hares, which are white as 
 fnow in winter, and turn brown in fum- 
 mer ; wild-deer, bears, and wolves ; the 
 laft are fo bold that I have know them, in 
 the night-time, carry off a dog from a 
 man's foot, in eroding the river on the ice. 
 There are alfo elks about the Lake of La- 
 doga. As for wild- fowl, few places can 
 boaft of greater variety. The chief are 
 
 thefe ;
 
 4 A JOURNEY 
 
 thefe ; the urhaan, called in French cog li- 
 moge ; this bird is black, with beautiful red 
 ftreaks about its head and eyes. The cock 
 is about the fize of a turkey ; the hen is 
 lefs, and of a brown colour. The heath- 
 cock, in French coq de bruiere, of the fame 
 colour and marks as the former, but not fo 
 large. The partridge, which the French 
 call gilinot. Thefe three kinds perch on 
 trees ; and in winter feed on fir-tops, and 
 on crane-berries, which they fcrape from 
 under the fnow. There is alfo found here 
 the common Englifh partridge ; it is how- 
 ever but rare. The tarmachan, a bird 
 well known in the northern parts of Eng- 
 land, and in Scotland, are here in plenty. 
 
 As foon as the ice goes off in the fpring, 
 vaft flocks of water- fowl come hither from 
 the Cafpian Sea, and other fouthern re- 
 gions? to hatch. Thefe confift of fwans, 
 geefe, a variety of wild ducks, teal, &c. 
 
 Snipes and wood-cocks breed here, many 
 of which are catched by the Ruffians, who 
 are excellent fiihers and fportfmen. 
 
 From
 
 T O I S P A H A N. 5 
 
 From St Petersburg we directed our 
 courfe along the weflern bank of the Neva, 
 till we came to the brick-works. The 
 weather being very hot, we halted here a 
 few hours, and in the evening purfued eur 
 journey to a fmall river which falls into 
 the Neva, about thirty verft above St Pe- 
 terfburgh. At this place we let our horfes 
 go to grafs, and lay in our waggons till the 
 morning ; but were much molefted by the 
 gnats and mufkitos. 
 
 Next morning we continued our jour- 
 ney, and patted a village ^called Ifhora, 
 where the inhabitants fpeak a language, 
 and wear a drefs different from the Ruffian, 
 though they profefs the fame Greek reli- 
 gion. It is probable they are the defcen- 
 dants of a colony formerly brought hither 
 from iome of the provinces of Livonia. 
 
 Next day we came to the Volchova, a 
 great river ifluing from a lake called Ilmen, 
 not far diftant from the city of Novogorod, 
 which difcharges itfelf into the Ladoga. 
 Here we left our horfes, and, putting our 
 
 waggons
 
 9 AJOURNEY 
 
 waggons and carnages on board barques, 
 went up the river, ufing oars or fails, by 
 turns, as neceffity obliged us. The banks 
 of the Volchova are covered with many 
 villages, and fruitful corn-fields, intermix- 
 ed with natural woods. We found as we 
 went along plenty of fifli and country pro- 
 vifions. 
 
 The iQth, -we arrived at Novogorod 
 Velikoi, or the Great Novogorod, fo called 
 to diftinguifti it from many lefler towns of 
 the fame name. This city ftands about 
 two hundred verft fouth-eaft from Peterf- 
 burgh. The Volchova % runs through the 
 middle of it, over which there is a wooden 
 bridge defended by a fortrefs. There are 
 many well built churches in the town, and 
 a great number of monafteries in the neigh- 
 bourhood, pleafantly fituated, which form 
 a very agreeable profpect. It was former- 
 ly a place of great note, but is now much 
 decayed. Here is an archbifhop who en- 
 joys a very confiderable revenue. 
 
 July
 
 TO ISPAHAN. > 
 
 July 22cl, having put our carnages on 
 board another barque, we failed up % the 
 river to the Lake Ilmen ; and, leaving it 
 on our right hand, entered .a fmall river 
 called Mfta, and at night came to Brunitz, 
 a large village, thirty verft from Novogo- 
 rod. Here we difcharged our boats ; and, 
 having procured horfes, we proceeded next 
 morning thirty verft to the village of 
 Zaytzoff, from thence to Krafnyftanky, 
 and then to Kreftitfky, where we changed 
 horfes, with which we travelled to Yafhil- 
 bitza. Here begin the Valday-hills, which 
 run to. a great diftance from eaft to weft, 
 but are only about twenty or thirty verft 
 broad. They are moftly covered with 
 wood. We came next to the town of Val- 
 day ; this place is pleafantly fnuated at the 
 foot of the hills, adjoining to a large lake 
 of the fame name, in the middle of which 
 is an ifland, whereon Hands a monaftery. 
 The country in the neighbourhood is hilly, 
 but not mountainous, exhibiting a beautiful 
 variety of plain and rifing grounds. 
 
 The
 
 S A JOURNEY 
 
 The next ftage is Zimogory, and after 
 that Vifhnoy-volotzoke. Here is a canal 
 of confiderable extent, cut by Peter the 
 Firft, which opens a communicatidn by 
 water from St Peterfburgh to all the places 
 on the Volga, and many other parts of 
 Ruffia, and proves a great encouragement 
 to trade, and very advantageous to the 
 merchant, in fuch extenfive tracts of land. 
 
 Next day we came to Torfhoak, a fmall 
 town. 
 
 The SQth, we arrived at Tweer, a popu- 
 lous and trading town, defended by a 
 caftle ; it is the capital of a province, and 
 a bifhop's feat. It derives its name from 
 a rivulet in the neighbourhood, called 
 Tweertza, and ftands on the banks of the 
 famous river Volga. 
 
 The Volga, known formerly by the 
 name of Rha, has its fource not far to the 
 weftward of Tweer. At a fmall diflance 
 from the fource of the Volga, two other 
 noble rivers take their rife ; the Dnieper, 
 or Boryfthenes, which run into the Black 
 
 Sea
 
 TO ISPAHAN. 9 
 
 Sea at Otzakof, and the Duina, which falls 
 into the Baltic at Riga. 
 
 The Volga, after vifiting in its courfe to 
 the fouth-eaft many fruitful countries, dif- 
 charges itfelf into the Cafpian Sea, about 
 fixty verft below Aftrachan ; and, in all 
 this long courfe, there is not a fingle cata- 
 ract to interrupt the navigation. As to 
 fifh, no river in the world can afford great- 
 er variety, better of their kind, nor in 
 larger quantities. 
 
 Here we tafted the fterlett, a fifh much 
 and generally efteemed ; it is of the ftur- 
 geon kind, but feldom grows above thirty 
 inches long. It is found in other rivers of 
 Ruffia ; but the Volga produces the bed 
 and in greateft plenty. The caviare, or 
 fpawn, is very good to eat raw, after being 
 cleaned and drefled. 1 never could find a 
 fifherman who had feen their fry. 
 
 The fame day, having changed horfes, 
 we proceeded on our journey to Gorodna, 
 a large village, on the weft bank of the 
 Volga. From this place is feen a charm- 
 
 VQL. L B ing
 
 io A JOURNEY 
 
 ing landfkip, containing a full view of the 
 windings of that river. 
 
 From hence, after pafling many villages, 
 we came to Kleen, a pretty large town, 
 and the laft ftage to Mofco. The country 
 between Kleen and Mofco is pleafant, ha- 
 ving many tufts of *wood, of unequal big- 
 nefs, fcattered among the corn-fields, that 
 contribute to beautify the country, which 
 had no great appearance of fertility. 
 
 About feven verft from Mofco we paf- 
 fed through a large village, called Ffe- 
 fwatzky, inhabited by Chriftians of the 
 Eaftern church, named Georgians ; their 
 ancient country was Gurgiflan, now one 
 of the northerly provinces of Perfia ; they 
 were driven ftom their native country by 
 the perfecution of the Perfians ; andj fly- 
 ing into Ruffia, they there found an hoipi- 
 table reception, many of them being em- 
 ployed in the fer vice of the Emperor. 
 
 From this place there is a view of the 
 city of Mofcow, and, at this diftance, few 
 cities in the world make a finer appear- 
 ance;
 
 TO ISPAHAN. ii 
 
 ance ; v for it ftands on a riling ground, and 
 contains many (lately churches and rao- 
 nafteries, whofe fteeples and cupolas are 
 generally covered either with copper gilt, 
 or tin plates, which fhine like gold and fil- 
 ver in the fun. 
 
 Auguft 2d we arrived at the city of Mof-. 
 co. I have omitted the names and diftances 
 of many inconfiderable places through 
 which we pafled ; let it fuffice, that the di- 
 ftance between St Peterfburgh and Mofco is 
 about feven hundred and thirty verft ; and, 
 although the hot weather detained us long 
 on the road, in winter the journey is eafily 
 performed with fledges in three days. 
 
 On the loth of Auguft, my friends, 
 Meffieurs Lange and Girvan, arrived here 
 in, their way to China, on a meiTage from 
 the Czar to the Emperor of China : The 
 firfl was a Swede, and the other a phyfici- 
 an, from the county of Air in Scotland. 
 
 We flayed in Mofco about three weeks, 
 having many things to prepare for fo long 
 a journey. This city, ftanding on an emi- 
 nence,
 
 12 
 
 nence, as was already obferved, commands 
 an extenfive profpeft of a fine plain coun- 
 try, adorned with woods and clumps of 
 trees, mcnafteries, and gentlemen's feats: 
 The river Mofco runs almoft through it, 
 which, emptying itfelf into the Volga, 
 preferves a communication with all the 
 fouthern parts of Ruffia, and even with 
 Periia. From thefe advantages in fituation, 
 this place is very convenient for trade, 
 which flourilhes here to a confiderable de- 
 gree. 
 
 The city v is fortified with a ftrpng brick- 
 \vall, called Beligorod, having embrafures 
 and a ditch. Within this is another wall, 
 called Kitaygorod : This laft inclofes what 
 is called the Crimlin, in which is the old 
 imperial palace, compounded of a number 
 of buildings, added to one another at dif- 
 ferent times. Some of the apartments are 
 very fpacious, particularly that called Gra- 
 navitapaData, where audience was given to 
 foreign ambafladors: Adjoining to the pa- 
 lace are many edifices, where were held 
 
 the
 
 TO ISPAHAN. 13 
 
 the courts of juftice: Here allb ftands a 
 lofty tower, wherein is hung the largefl 
 bell in the world, called Ivan Veleke, weigh- 
 ing about ten thoufand poods ; which, 
 reckonipg each pood at near thirty-fix 
 pounds Englilh, will amount to about ari 
 hundred and iixty ton weight. Befides 
 thefe, there is a cathedral church, and an 
 arfenal, well furnifhed with brafs cannon, 
 mortars, and other warlike ftores. Be- 
 yond the brick-walls, already mentioned, 
 there is an earthen one, of great circum- 
 ference, round the whole ; abd, without 
 this, the fuburbs alfo are very extenfive. 
 
 The great plenty of provifions in this 
 place furprifed me not a little ; I found here 
 fruits of different kinds, which I did not 
 expect, particularly excellent melons, and 
 arboozes, or water-melons. 
 
 Auguft the 2 i ft, we fhippcd our baggage 
 on board fix fmall barques, adapted by their 
 conftrudion, either for fails or oars, as 
 fhould be moft convenient, and fell down 
 the river. The ambaflador only remained 
 
 at
 
 I 4 A JOURNEY 
 
 at Mofco, waiting for fome difpatches from 
 court. In 'the evening we patted Kolu- 
 minfka, a village pleafantly fituated on the 
 fouth fide of the Mofco river, near which 
 is a large country- houfe, with gardens and 
 orchards, belonging to the court. 
 
 October ^d, we came to Kolumna, a 
 fortified town. Next day, the wind being 
 favourable, we hoifted fail, and, after going 
 about three verft, entered the river Oka, 
 into which .the Mofco falls and lofes its 
 name. The Oka rifes in the Ukrain, and 
 runs to the fouth-eaft ; it contains a great 
 quantity of water, and is navigable very 
 far up the country. 
 
 The gth, we arrived at Pereflave-refanfky, 
 a large town to the left, fituated about a 
 verft from the river Oka ; it is the feat of 
 an archbifhop, and the country around is 
 very fruitful in corn. 
 
 The 1 6th, we came to Kaffimova, for- 
 merly the refidence of a Tartar Prince; 
 but the familv is now converted to Chrif- 
 
 M 
 
 and retains only the old name of 
 
 Kaffi-
 
 TO ISPAHAN". 15- 
 
 Kaflimoffky Czarevitz. The place is at 
 prefent inconfiderable. There are (till here 
 a few Mahometan Tartars, who are allow- 
 ed the free exercife of their religion, and 
 have a fmall oratory. I accompanied our 
 interpreter to vifit one of them, an old, ac- 
 quaintance of his: He was a very decent 
 man ; we faw a horfe newly killed, which 
 they intended to eat ; they prefer this kind 
 of food to beef, and invited us to ihare 
 their repafr, which we declined, pretending 
 we had not time. 
 
 The i yth we left Kaflimova, and the 
 2ift arrived at Murum, a pretty large 
 town, and a biftiop's fee. The country 
 produces plenty of corn. About this place, 
 there are a few idolatrous Tartars, who live 
 in little dirty cottages, thinly fcattered ; 
 they are a very flmple and harmlefs peo- 
 ple ; how or when they fettled here is not 
 known. 
 
 The 22d we pafled a large village, called 
 Paulovo- perevoz, the property of Prince 
 Tzerhafkoy. Its fituation is on the fouth 
 
 fide
 
 16 A JOURNEY 
 
 fide of the river : Here the banks are much 
 higher than above this place. 
 
 We came the 2jd to Nifhna-novogorod, 
 a great town, defended by a caftle, ftanding 
 on the high banks of the Oka, oppofite to 
 where it lofes itfelf in the Volga, which 
 now forms a mighty ftream. 
 
 The following day we dined at the go- 
 vernor's, where 1 faw General Creutz, 
 and feveral other Swedish officers, who 
 had been taken prifoners at Poltava, and 
 lived here at large. 
 
 The 25th we failed from Nifhna, and 
 foon entered the Volga. The wind being 
 northerly, we run along at a great rate ; 
 but, in the night, the river was fuddenly 
 rilled with floating ice, which drove us on 
 a fand bank, where we lay a-ground that 
 night and all the next day ; however, after 
 much labour and fatigue, we got clear, al- 
 though the floating ice ftiil continued. At 
 laft the wind changed to the fouth, and the 
 weather turned milder, .which enabled us 
 to purfue our voyage. 
 
 We
 
 TO ISPAHAN. 17 
 
 We .next pafled Vafily-gorod, and then 
 Kofmo-deminnfko, frnall towns, both on 
 the right. 
 
 November 3d we came to Zaback-zar, 
 a pretty large town, on the fame hand. 
 
 In this country are caught the Deft and 
 largeft faulcons in the world, much efteem- . 
 ed for their ftrength and beauty, particu- 
 larly by the Turks and Perfians, who pur- 
 chafe them very dear. The Ruffians take 
 few young hawks from the neft, preferring 
 the old ones, which they man very dex- 
 troufly to fly at fwan, goofe, cran, or heron. 
 The Tartars fly them at antelopes and 
 hares. I have feen them take a wild duck 
 out of the water, when nothing of her 
 could be perceived but the bill, which fhe 
 was obliged to put up for air. Some of 
 them are as white as a dove. The manner 
 of catching them is very fimple : They e- 
 rec~t a tall pole upon a hill, free from wood, 
 on a bank of tfre river, near which, is pla- 
 ced a day-net, 'under the net fome fmall 
 birds are fattened by a cord, which the" 
 
 VOL, I. C hawk- 
 

 
 hawk- catcher pulls to make them flatter, 
 on the appearance of the hawk, who ob- 
 ferving his prey, firft perches on the pole, 
 and, when he ftoops to feize the birds, the 
 perfon, who is concealed by the bufhes, 
 draws the net and covers him. 
 
 The 4th, we pafied Kay-gorod, and the 
 5th, Swiiaffky, the firft on the left, and the 
 other on the right hand. This evening we 
 arrived before the town of Cazan, and 
 hauled our boats into the mouth of a fmall 
 river, from which the town has its name, 
 called Cazanka. We intended to continue 
 our voyage dircdly to Aftrachan ; but, be- 
 fore we had made the neceflary preparations 
 at Cazan, the winter fet in, and, on the 6th 
 of September, the Volga was filled with 
 floating ice ; this determined us to winter 
 at that place ; we therefore unloaded the 
 boats, and came to the city, where we were 
 hofpitably received by the governour. 
 
 CHAP.
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 Occurrences during ourjlay at Ca%an ; 
 our journey thence to AJirachan. 
 
 CAijAN is about feven hundred and 
 thirty-five verft from Mofco by land, 
 but much more by water : It is fituated a- 
 bout five verft to the north of the Volga, 
 on a high bank of the rivulet Cazanka, 
 which is navigable from this place to the 
 river. The town is ftrong by fituation, 
 and defended by a caftle, fortified with 
 walls of brick : Within the citadel are the 
 cathedral church, the palaces of the arch- 
 bifhop and governor, and the apartments 
 for the courts of juflice : The town is 
 
 fenced
 
 A JOURNEY 
 
 fenced with a ditch and palifades. The 
 fuburbs are inhabited chiefly by mechanics, 
 except a ftreet or two poffefled by Maho- 
 metan Tartars, the pofterity of the ancient 
 natives ; they live very decently, have the 
 free exercife of their religion, and many o- 
 ther privileges ; fome of them are very 
 rich by the trade they carry on to Turkey, 
 Perfia, and other places. 
 
 Cazan was anciently the capital of a part 
 of Tartary, and the feat of government, 
 where the royal family refided. It was ta- 
 ken from the Tartars by Czar Ivan Vafilo- 
 viz, in the year fifteen hundred and fifty- 
 two, -in confequence whereof, an extenfive 
 country to the fouthward eafily fell into his 
 hands. The conquered Princes were convert- 
 ed .to Chriftianity, and had lands affigned 
 them in their own country, where the fa- 
 mily flill fubfifts. 
 
 The country adjacent is very pleafant 
 and fertile, producing wheat, rye, barley, 
 oats, and feveral kinds of pulfe. The 
 taroods to the fouth and weft confift of ftate-
 
 TO ISPAHAN. It 
 
 jy oaks, fufficient to fupply all the navies in 
 the world ; and from hence St Peterfburgh 
 is abundantly furnifhed with timber for 
 all the purpofes of (hip-building, by an ea- 
 fy conveyance all the way by water. The 
 woods to the north and eaft, f which are of 
 prodigious extent, confift of trees of all 
 forts. 
 
 In the fpring, when the fnow melts, the 
 Volga overflows all the low grounds, fome- 
 times to a great diftance; the confequence 
 is the fame with that produced in Egypt, 
 by the inundations of the Nile; for the 
 mud, carried down by the ftream, fertilizes 
 the country to a great degree ; fo that on 
 the iflands in the Volga, fome whereof are 
 very large, and overgrown with tall trees, 
 I have found plenty of excellent afparagus. 
 
 Befides the fterlett there are plenty of 
 ilurgeon, and a fiu\ about the fize and near 
 the fhape of the largeft falmon, which is 
 very delicious, and, for the whitenefs of 
 its flefh, is called the white fifh. . 
 
 The
 
 2* A JOURNEY 
 
 The woods afford abundance of game J 
 and, in the fpring, great numbers of water- 
 fowl come hither to hatch from the Cafpian 
 Sea. At Cazan we found good beef, mut- 
 ton, and tame poultry, and provifions of 
 all kinds very reafonable. 
 
 There is here a confiderable manufactory 
 of Ruffia leather, the hides here being 
 reckoned the beft in the empire : Great 
 quantities of this leather are exported to Leg- 
 horn, and other parts of Europe, x and may 
 be confidered among the ftaple commodities 
 of this country : The ftrong fmell of this 
 leather is acquired in the dreffing, for in- 
 Head of oil, common in other places, they 
 ufe a kind of tar, extracted by fire from the 
 bark of the birch-tree ; which ingredient 
 the Ruffes call deuggit, and which tree is 
 here in greater abundance than in other 
 parts of the world ; and then they dye 
 them with logwood. 
 
 Befides the idolatrous Tartars, formerly 
 mentioned, there are two pretty numerous 
 tribes called the Tzerimifh and Tzoowafh, 
 
 they
 
 TO ISPAHAN, jy 
 
 they fpeak a language quite different from 
 the Mahometan Tartars in thefe parts, who 
 ufe a corupted dialed: of the Arabic. The 
 Mahometans likewife have fome learning ; 
 but the Tzerimifh and Tzoowafh have 
 none. They have a tradition among them, 
 that, in former times, they had a book on 
 religion ; but, as no body could read it, a 
 cow came and fwallowed it. They pay 
 great veneration to a bull. From whence 
 they came is unknown ; but, from their 
 completion, it is probable they are from 
 Afia. They live by agriculture, and feem 
 to be an inofFenfive kind of people. Their 
 huntfmen offer in facrifice, to fome deity, 
 the firft creature they catch. Hence fome 
 curious men have imagined thefe people 
 part of the ten tribes of the Jews, expelled 
 by Shalmanezer. I advance this only as 
 a conjecture, which every reader may fol- 
 low, or not, as he pleafes. 
 
 By accident I met with an Englifhman 
 at this place. He was by trade a earpen- 
 
 ter.
 
 ter, and had been in the Ruffian fervice ; 
 but, being fufpected of deferring, he was 
 condemned to banifhment, to this coun- 
 try, for a certain time ; and, notwith- 
 ftanding that was elapfed, the poor man, 
 deprived of all means of aflerting his li- 
 berty, remained ftill in the fame fituation. 
 He bought a Tzerimifh wife, from her fa- 
 ther, for fix rubles, about thirty fhillings 
 Sterling. He brought her to vifit me. She 
 was a woman of a cheerful and open coun- 
 tenance, and dreffed in the manner of her 
 country ; of which, for its fingularity, I 
 lhall give a fhprt defcription. 
 
 Her hair was plaited round her head, in 
 many locks, but that on the back part long- 
 er than the reft, at the nd of which was 
 tied a taflel of red filk, and in the middle 
 a fmall round brafs bell. About her head 
 was a fillet fet with fmall {hells, inftead of 
 jewels, and hung all round with filver 
 pence. Above this was a piece of linen 
 fo artfully plaited and done up, that it 
 
 looked
 
 1715* TO ISPAHAN. 25 
 
 looked like a grenadier's cap ; at the top was 
 a filk taflel, with another brafs bell, which 
 gingled as fhe turned her head. The reft 
 of her drefs was clean, though homely ; 
 and the whole feemed becoming enough. 
 
 I think the cold is here more intenfe 
 than at St Peterfburgh, though it is five or 
 fix degrees farther fouth. In going about 
 three miles from town, in a clear day, I 
 had my face, fingers, and toes frozen, not- 
 withftanding I was not half an hour on the 
 road. I applied the common cure, that is, 
 rubbing the numbed parts with fnow, 
 which I found perfectly effectual. 
 
 December 24th, our ambaflador arrived 
 from Mofco. At the fame time came an 
 exprefs from court, with the important 
 news of the crown Princefs (as fhe was 
 commonly called) being fafely delivered of 
 a fon, chriftened by the name of Peter* 
 She died foon after her delivery, univerfally 
 lamented for her many rare and excellent 
 virtues. She was of the Wolffenbuttle fami- 
 ly, and wife to Alexy Petrovitz, the Cza- 
 
 D revitz.
 
 *6 AJOURNEY 1715. 
 
 . revitz. Befides this young Prince, fhe left 
 a Princefs called Natalia. 
 
 At Cazan we found two Swedifti gene- 
 rals, Hamilton and Rofen, and many other 
 officers of diftin&ion, taken prifoners at 
 Poltava, who were no farther confined than 
 by having a foldier of the garrifon to at- 
 tend them at their lodgings ; and, by the 
 generofity of the governour, lived as eafily 
 as circumftances would allow. Thefe gen- 
 tlemen were invited to all the public di- 
 verfions ; and, by their polite and agree- 
 able behaviour, contributed not a little to 
 our paffing the winter with a good deal of 
 pleafure, in fuch a remote part of the 
 world. 
 
 Upon the banks of the Cazanka {lands 
 a monaftery, very pleafantly fituated. I 
 accompanied our interpreter to vifit the 
 abbot, who received us in a very friendly 
 manner. He would not, however, give 
 the interpreter his bleffing, nor admit him, 
 into the church, during divine fervice, un- 
 lefs he pulled off his wig. He, profefllng 
 
 the
 
 1716. TO ISPAHAN. 27 
 
 the communion of the Greek church, ex- 
 poftulated a little with the prieft, telling 
 him that their learned bifhops at Mofco 
 made no fuch fcruples. The abbot re- 
 plied, that it was contrary to the rules of 
 discipline to allow any man to enter the 
 church with his head covered. 
 
 The time was now come when we ex- 
 peded to leave Cazan. Our boats were 
 ready in the beginning of May, but the 
 Volga was ftill fo high and rapid, that it 
 was reckoned dangerous to proceed till the 
 flood fubiided ; for the force of the ftream 
 frequently carries* vefTels from their courfe 
 into the woods, where the water retiring, 
 leaves them on dry land. 
 
 At laft, on the 4th of June 1716, we 
 left Cazan in eight barks, and rowed down 
 the river with great velocity. In the night, 
 one of our boats was driven, by the rapi- 
 dity of the current, among the woods, and 
 ftuck faft between two trees, up which the 
 people climbed, being apprehenfive of dan- 
 ger.
 
 28 AJOURNEY 1716. 
 
 ger. The confequence, however, was not 
 fo fatal as the circumftances were alar- 
 ming ; for the veflel was got off next day 
 with inconfiderable damage. 
 
 The yth, we pafled a fmall town called 
 Tetoofk, and the 9th Sinbirfky, pretty 
 large, and the capital of a province of that 
 name, both to the right. Sinbirfky is de- 
 fended by a caftle. Near this place are e- 
 vident marks of camps and entrenchments, 
 which I was told were the works of the 
 great Tartar general called Timyrak-fack, 
 or Lame Timyr, or Tamerlane, who came 
 to this place with a great army ; but, being 
 informed of an infurre&ion in his own 
 country, Samarkant, now Bucharia, re- 
 turned home. 
 
 The loth, we put off from Sinbirfky 
 with the wind contrary, which greatly re- 
 tarded our progrefs. We pafled two hills, 
 one of them exhibiting a very beautiful 
 profpect, the other containing mines of ful- 
 phur, as clear as amber. We pafled alfo a 
 mound of fand, of considerable bignefs, in 
 
 the
 
 1716. TO ISPAHAN. 29 
 
 the middle of a plain, where they fay xvas 
 buried a famous Tartar Prince called Ma- 
 may. 
 
 The 2cth, we arrived at the town of 
 Samara, fituated to the left, in a fine plain. 
 The place is but fmall, and fortified only 
 with a ditch and palifades, with wooden 
 towers at proper ^diftances, mounted with 
 cannon, fufficient to defend it againft the 
 incurfions of the Tartars, called Kara Kal- 
 packs, or Black Caps, who inhabit the de- 
 fert to the caftward of this place. 
 
 This tribe of Tartars is not very confi- 
 derable, and, when their chiefs are united, 
 which feldom happens, can fcarce raife a- 
 bove ten or twelve thoufand men, who are 
 all mounted on horfeback ; becaufe, in their 
 long marches, to rob and plunder their 
 neighbours, nothing but horfe could be of 
 any ufe. They live always in tents, with 
 their flocks, removing from place to place, 
 as led by inclination or neceffity. Their 
 weapons are bows and arrows, and fabres ; 
 fome of them ufe fire-arms. While we 
 
 were
 
 30 AJOURNEY 1716. 
 
 were at Samara, the inhabitants were alarm- 
 ed with the approach of two or three thou- 
 fand of thefe people, who encamped about 
 three miles diftant. From one of the tow- 
 ers I could plainly fee their camp, and 
 them riding about it. As they had not ar- 
 tillery, the garrifon was in no danger, tho' 
 fo weak, however, that it durft not at this 
 time attack them. The people were obli- 
 ged to keep a conftant watch to defend 
 their cattle. This place is reckoned about 
 three hundred and fifty verft diftant from 
 Cazan. 
 
 The 2 1 ft, having provided frefh hands 
 for the navigation of our barks, we depart- 
 ed from Samara ; and, the weather being 
 calm, rowed down the river, which is here 
 very broad. The weftern bank is very high, 
 but the eaftern quite flat. The fields on 
 both fides are very fruitful, but efpecially 
 to the weft, where the grafs grows very 
 high, intermixed with fage, thyme, and o- 
 ther herbs ; there are alfo fome woods of 
 oaks. A few hundred acres of fuch land 
 
 would
 
 1716. TO ISPAHAN. 31 
 
 would be of great value in England, tho* 
 it is here wafte and uncultivated. 
 
 We came the 2jth to the Ifmeyovi-gory, 
 or Serpent-hills, fo called from the wind- 
 ings of the river at this place ; and, after 
 paffing feveral towns, and many villages, all 
 on the right, we landed at Saratof, a large 
 town on the fame fide, about eight hun- 
 dred and fifty verft from Cazan. It is but 
 flightly fortified with a ditch, wooden-walls, 
 and towers mounted with cannon, and de- 
 fended by a garrifon of regular troops and 
 Coflacks. 
 
 We dined next day with the Governour, 
 who entertained us with great variety of 
 provifions, particularly fifh, and very fine 
 mutton. 
 
 After dinner, a party of us crofTed the 
 river, to vifit a great horfe-market, held by 
 the Kalmuck Tartars. We faw about five 
 or fix hundred of thefe people aflembled 
 in a field, with a number of horfes all run- 
 ning loofe, except thofe on which the Tar- 
 tars were mounted. The buyers came 
 
 from
 
 32 AJOURNEY 1716. 
 
 from different parts of Ruflia* The Tar- 
 tars had their tents pitched along the river 
 fide. Thefe tents are of a conical figure. 
 There are feveral long poles creeled, incli- 
 ning to one another, which are fixed at 
 the top into fomething like a hoop, that 
 forms the circumference of an aperture for 
 letting out the fmoke, or admitting the 
 light. Acrofs the poles are laid fome fmall 
 rods, from four to fix feet long, and faf- 
 tened to them with thongs : This frame is 
 covered with pieces of felt, made of coarfe 
 wool and hair. Thefe tents afford better 
 fhelter than any other kind, and are fo con- 
 trived, as to be fet up, taken down, folded, 
 and packed up, with great eafe and quick- 
 nefs, and fo light, that a camel may carry 
 five or fix of them. Where the Chan, or 
 any perfon of character, refides, they are 
 placed in ftraight lines. Thefe Tartars are 
 ftrong made ftout men, their faces broad, 
 nofes flattifh, and eyes fmall and black, but 
 very quick. Their drefs is very limple, 
 confiding of a loofe coat of ftieep fkins tied 
 
 with
 
 I 7 i6. TO ISPAHAN. 33 
 
 with a girdle, a fmall round cap, turned 
 up with furr, having a taflel'of red filk at 
 the top, leather or linen drawers, and boots. 
 Their heads are all maved, except a lock 
 behind, which is plaited, and hangs down, 
 their backs. 
 
 They are armed with bows and arrows, 
 a fabre and lance, which they manage with 
 great dexterity, acquired by conftant prac- 
 tice from their infancy. They are men of 
 courage and refolution ; but much afraid of 
 cannon, which puts their hories in difor- 
 der. As they are almoft always on horfe- 
 back, they are excellent riders. 
 
 The drefs of the women differs little 
 from that of the men ; only their gowns 
 are fomewhat longer than the coats of the 
 men, a little ornamented, and bordered with 
 party-coloured cloth. They wear ear- 
 rings, and their hair all plaited in locks. 
 The better fort drefs in filks in fummer. It 
 muft be obferved, for the honour of their 
 women, that they are very honeft and fin- 
 cere, and few of them lewd. Adultery is 
 VOL. I. E 3
 
 54 A JOURNEY 1716, 
 
 a crime fcaice ever heard of. The Tartars 
 make very good and faithful fervants ; and 
 the more mildly they are ufed the better 
 they perform their duty ; for their wan- 
 dering unconfined manner of life naturally 
 infpires them with fentiments of liberty, 
 and averfion and hatred to tyranny and pp- 
 preflion. 
 
 All their wealth is their flocks. Like thofe 
 who lived in the early ages of the world, 
 they have camels, horfes, cows, and fheep. 
 The horfes are of a good fize for the faddle, 
 and very hardy ; as they run wild till they 
 are foinetimes fix years old, they are gene- 
 rally headftrong. They are fold at this fair 
 at five to fifteen or fixteen crowns, and the 
 ftnong well fhaped natural pacers much 
 higher. They have few camels, but many 
 dromedaries, who have two protuberances 
 on their backs. Their cows are of a middle 
 fize ; the fheep large, having broad tails 
 like thofe in Turkey ; the wool is coarfe, 
 but the mutton very fine. 
 
 In
 
 i 7 i6. tO ISP AH AN. $$ 
 
 In the preceding century, a Kalmuck 
 prince, named Torgott-Ghorluke, came from 
 Alack-Ulla,' (which fignifies the fpotted 
 mountains), a country fituated between Si- 
 beria on the north, and India on the fouth, 
 to the borders of Ruffia ; and brought a- 
 long with him about fifty thoufand fami- 
 lies, or tents, as they fometimes reckon. 
 In his march weftward to the Volga, he 
 defeated Eyball-utzick a Tartar prince, who 
 lived in tents beyond the river Enbo. Ad- 
 vancing forward, he met three other Tartar 
 chiefs, named Kitta-haptzayj Malebafh, arid 
 Etzan, whom he alfo defeated ; and at laft 
 fettled to the eaft of the Volga, under the 
 protection of the Ruffians. Chorluke had 
 fix Ions. Dangtzinq, the eldeft, fucceeded 
 him in the government or ehanfhip; 
 
 The prefent Chan$ named Aijuka, is the 
 fourth from Chorluke, and is much efteem- 
 ed in the eaft for his fagacity and juftice. 
 I am informed that the reafon why Chor- 
 luke left his own country, was a difpute 
 about the fueceflion to the ehanfhip. He 
 
 being
 
 3<5 AJOURNEY 1716. 
 
 being engaged on the weakeft fide, and 
 having unfuccefsfully tried his fortune in 
 the field, at laft took the refolution of a- 
 bandoning his own country altogether. 
 Thefe people are generally called the Black 
 Kalmucks, though they are not black, but 
 only fwarthy. 
 
 They have no money, except what they 
 get from the Ruffians, and their other 
 neighbours, in exchange for cattle. With 
 this they buy meal fometimes, but moftly 
 cloth, filk fluffs, and other apparel, for their 
 women. They have no mechanics, ex- 
 cept thofe who make arms. They avoid 
 all labour, as the greateft flavery ; their 
 only employment is tending their flocks, 
 managing horfes, and hunting. If they are 
 angry with a perfon, they wifh he may 
 live in one place, and work like a Ruffian. 
 Their language contains none of thofe hor- 
 rid oaths common enough in tongues of 
 more enlightened nations. They believe 
 virtue leads to happinefs, and vice to mife- 
 ry ; for, when defired to do what they 
 
 think
 
 1716. TO ISPAHAN. 37 
 
 think wrong, they reply, in a proverb, 
 * Though a knife be (harp, it cannot cut 
 1 its own handle.' 
 
 On long marches, all their provifions 
 confift of cheefe, or rather dried curd, 
 made up into little balls, which they drink 
 when pounded and mixed with water. If 
 this kind of food fails, they have always 
 many fpare horfes, which they kill and eat. 
 They broil or roaft the flefh before the 
 fire, on pieces of broken arrows, and never 
 eat it raw, as is commonly believed, unlefs 
 compelled by neceffity. They have, in- 
 deed, large thick pieces of horfe flefh, 
 fmoked or dried in the fun, which they 
 eat ; but this cannot properly be called 
 raw. I have tafted fome of it, and thought 
 it not amifs. 
 
 As to their religion, I can fay little : 
 They are downright heathens ; and have 
 many lamas or priefts, who can read and 
 write, and are diftinguifhed by their yel- 
 low habits. Their high prieft is called 
 Delay Lama, and lives far to the eaftward. 
 
 July
 
 3 8 AJOURNEY 1716. 
 
 July J ft, we put off from Saratof, and 
 the 2d, yth, and gth, pafled the towns of 
 Kamofhinka, Czaritza, and Tzorno-yarr, 
 all fituated on the weft bank, and fortified 
 in the fame manner as Saratof. At the firft 
 of thefe places, Captain Perry, an Englifh- 
 man, with many workmen, was employed 
 in cutting a canal between the Volga and 
 the Don, which would have opened a paf- 
 fage to the Euxine fea ; but the ground 
 being very hard, and rifing in fome places 
 confiderably above the level, the enterprife 
 was laid afide, though the diftance was not 
 above fifty verft. 
 
 From Tzorno-yarr to Aftrachan, it is not 
 fafe for Ruffians to travel on the weftern 
 banks of the Volga, on account of the Cu- 
 ban Tartars, who are their enemies. To 
 the eaft, however, there is no danger, as 
 the Kalmucks are friends. On the iflands 
 in the Volga I obferved great quantities of 
 liquorifh growing wild. 
 
 The 1 3th, we arrived fafe at Aftrachan, 
 and were lodged in the citadel. This place 
 
 was
 
 1716. TO ISPAHAN. 39 
 
 was taken from the Tartars in the year 
 1554, by the warlike Czar Ivan Vafilio- 
 vitz ; whereby all his concjuefts on the 
 Volga were fecured, and the way prepared 
 for farther extending the Ruffian dominion 
 to the fouth and eaft, which hath w been 
 fjiccefsfully attempted fince his time. 
 
 CHAP.
 
 40 AJOURNEY 1716. 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 Occurrences during our Stay at A- 
 ftrachan. Our journey thence 
 to Shamachy. 
 
 ASTRACHAN is fituated about 
 fixty verft from the Cafpian Sea, on 
 an ifland in the Volga, having the main 
 branch of that river to the weftward. It is 
 fortified by a ftrong brick-wall, with em- 
 brafures, and fquare towers at proper dif- 
 tances. In the citadel are the cathedral 
 church, governour's palace, and the public 
 offices. There is a creek or haven for (hips 
 that navigate the river and the Cafpian Sea. 
 The houfes are generally built with wood, 
 
 con-
 
 1716. TO ISPAHAN. 41 
 
 conveyed in rafts along the river ; for the 
 neighbouring country produces nothing, 
 being all a barren defert. To the weft- 
 ward there is no water to be found for 
 many miles. The iflands, however, adja- 
 cent to the town, are very fruitful, and 
 produce excellent grapes, tranfplanted hi-- 
 ther from Perfia and other parts ; alfo wa- 
 ter-melons, efteemed the beft in the world ; 
 and various kino's of mufk-melons, peach- 
 es, cherries, pears, apples, and apricots. 
 
 Here are feveral large vineyards, belong- 
 ing partly to the court, and partly to pri- 
 vate perfons. There is a Frenchman who 
 fuperintends them. The wines are very 
 good when drunk on the fpot, but cannot 
 bear carriage, for the leaft motion renders 
 them infipid. Were it not for this circum- 
 ftance, Ruffia would be able, not only to 
 fupply itfelf abundantly with wine, but e- 
 ven other parts of Europe. This perni- 
 cious quality is attributed to the nitrous 
 particles of the foil where the vines grow. 
 I have myfelf feen, in the furrows made 
 F for
 
 42 A JOURNEY 1716. 
 
 for watering them, a whitifh cruft of fait : 
 But the grapes, notwithftanding, are very 
 fweet, without the leaft tincture of tart- 
 nefs. 
 
 About a mile below the town are collec- 
 ted great quantities of common fait. The 
 people dig pits, into which they introduce 
 the water ; which, being exhaled by the 
 
 heat of the fun, the fait is left upon the 
 
 I 
 
 bottom. After gathering, they tranfport it 
 along the river, in large barks of about five 
 or fix hundred ton. The gun-powder 
 manufactory is a little above the town ; in 
 which, and in the mines of faltpetre, near 
 this place, are employed a great number of 
 workmen for the fervice of the govern- 
 ment. 
 
 The climate is healthy, though very hot. 
 The weather is generally calm, during 
 which great numbers of gnats mufkitos in- 
 feft the inhabitants. Thefe vermine indeed 
 are fometimes difperfed by a breeze from 
 the fea, which renders this place very plea- 
 fant. They are hatched and flickered in 
 
 the
 
 TO ISPAHAN. 43 
 
 the marflies towards the fea, which are fo 
 
 i 
 overgrown with llrong tall reeds that they 
 
 are altogether impaflable. 
 
 The Mahometan Tartars here live with- 
 out the town, and have the fame privileges 
 as in other places. I met feveral 'of their 
 women in the ftreet with rings in their 
 nofes, which were of different value, ac- 
 cording to the rank of the perfon who 
 wore them ; fome of gold, and others fet 
 with precious (tones. On inquiring the 
 reafon of fuch a fingular ornament, I was 
 told, that it was the confequence of a reli- 
 gious dedication of thefe perfons to the 
 fervice of God : It is made by the parents, 
 even while the mother is pregnant ; in to- 
 ken whereof, as foon as the child is born, 
 they put a ring in the right noftril, which 
 continues there till death. I have feen 
 fome with two fuch rings. 
 
 Aftrachan is a place of confiderable 
 trade to Perfia, Ghiva, Bucharia, and India. 
 The people of thefe nations have a commofi 
 
 car*-
 
 44 A JOURNEY 1716. 
 
 caravanfery, where they live and expofe 
 their goods to fale. 
 
 The Armenians carry on the greateft 
 part of the Perfian trade ; for the Perfians 
 themfelves feldom go out of their own 
 country. There are a few Indians, or Ba- 
 nians, 4 at this place, who have a ftreak of 
 yellow down their forehead, made with 
 faffron or fome other vegetable. They 
 are a good-natured, innocent kind of peo- 
 ple, and live moftly on fruits. 
 
 The market is plentifully fupplied with 
 pfovifions of all kinds ; hut efpecially fifh, 
 of which no place that' I know abounds 
 with fuch variety. After the fale is over, 
 which is ufually about ten o'clock, what 
 remains of the common forts is thrown to 
 the dung-hill, where the hogs and poultry 
 feed upon them ; and hence it happens 
 that their very pork and fowls tafte of fifh, 
 It would be tedious to mention all the dif- 
 ferent kinds this place affords : I cannot 
 however omit the carp, which for fize ex- 
 ceeds all of that name I ever heard of. I 
 
 have
 
 1716. TO ISPAHAN. 4.$ 
 
 have feen fome of them of more than thir- 
 ty pound weight, very fat and lufcious. 
 Thofe caught in autumn are carried to 
 Mofco frozen, and fold there and in the 
 places adjacent. 
 
 I obferved alfo a great variety of uncom- 
 mon birds, whereof I {hall defcribe a few 
 that feemed moft extraordinary. 
 
 The firft I (hall mention, called by the 
 Ruffians baba, is of a gray colour, and lar- 
 ger than a fwan ; he has a broad bill, un- 
 der which hangs a bag that may contain a 
 quart or more ; he wades near the edge of 
 the river, and on feeing a ihoal of fry, or 
 fmall fifties, fpreads his wings and drives 
 them to a fhallow, where he gobbles as 
 many of them as he can into his bag, and 
 then going alhore, eats them, or carries 
 them to his young. This bird I take to 
 be the pelican. 
 
 The next is altogethef white, except its 
 feet, which are black ; it is fomewhat lefs 
 than a heron, and has a long broad bill. 
 
 The
 
 46 A JOURNEY 1716, 
 
 The Germans call this bird leffel-ganze* 
 the Ruffians kolpeck. 
 
 There is another about the fame fize, 
 alfo white ; but its feet are long and red, 
 and its bill crooked and. round, and as red 
 as coral : Its wings are adorned with fome 
 bright fcarlet feathers. 
 
 Befides thefe, I faw a kind of duck, 
 fomething bigger than the common fort, 
 called turpan ; it is eafily tamed, and much 
 admired for its beauty, and a certain kind 
 of noife peculiar to itfelf. I have eat of 
 all thefe fowls ; but did not much relifli 
 them, on account of the fifhy tafte with 
 which they are all infected. 
 
 There are alfo patridges and buftards, 
 which need no defcription. The Kal- 
 mucks, who are keen fportfmen, particu- 
 larly at hawking, in which they have ar- 
 rived to a great perfection, kill the buftards 
 with bows and arrows : When they fee 
 them feeding, they ride in upon them at 
 full fpeed ; and as the buftard is a heavy 
 bird, and mounts (lowly, they have an op- 
 
 portu-
 
 1716. TO ISPAHAN. 47 
 
 portunity of (hooting them with broad- 
 headed arrows. 
 
 On the banks of the Volga there is a 
 fpecies of deer of a brighter red, and forrie- 
 what larger than the fallow-deer ; they 
 have green horns, but not branched, about 
 nine inches long, and covered with circles, 
 rifing one above another to the point, 
 which is very (harp. This deer is very 
 fwift, and its flefh excellent ;^it has a high 
 fnout of griftle, which rifes very near to 
 the eyes a circumftance which I have 
 not obferved in any other animal. 
 
 I faw alfo a fmall lively creature, called 
 an Aftrachan hare, about the fize of a 
 fquirrel, and of a reddifh colour, remark- 
 able for having the fore-feet very fhort in 
 proportion to the hind-feet ; its tail is 
 long, with a tuft of hair at the extremity ; 
 it burrows in the earth, and being a very- 
 pretty creature, I have fometimes feen them 
 in cages. The Kalmucks eat them very 
 greedily.
 
 48 A JOURNEY 1716. 
 
 While we were at Aftrachan, an ambaf- 
 fador arrived there, from the Chan of 
 Chiva, going to St Peterfburgh. On his ar- 
 rival he fent, according to the eaftern cuf- 
 tom, fome fmall prefentto our ambafiador ; 
 they were brought by part of his retinue, 
 and confided of a hawking glove, a fmall 
 knife, an embroidered purfe, and fome 
 fruits. 
 
 Chiva is a large territory, lying about two 
 or three days journey eaftward from the Caf- 
 pian Sea ; bounded by Perfia on the fouth, 
 and Bucharia to the eaft. The capital, 
 which bears the fame name, is large and 
 populous, and governed by a Chan, eleded 
 by the people. They are very troublefome 
 and dangerous, both to travellers and their 
 neighbours, being frequently employed 
 either in robbing the former, or making 
 depredations on the latter. And though 
 Chiva is well fortified, its fituation, in fo 
 fandy and barren a defert, is its bed defence. 
 
 One day, as I was walking through the 
 ftreets of Aftrachan, I obferved a very fm- 
 
 gular
 
 1716. TO ISPAHAN. 49 
 
 guiar appearance : It was a pretty Tartar 
 lady, mounted aftride upon an ox ; (he 
 had a ring in her nofe, and a firing drawn 
 through the nofe of the ox, which ferved 
 inftead of a bridle : She was drefled better 
 than common, and attended by a footman. 
 The fmgularity of the equipage, but parti- 
 cularly her extraordinary beauty, drew my 
 attention. The Mahometan muft not be 
 confounded with the Kalmuck Tartars ; 
 the firft are a well-looked civilized people 
 in comparifon of the other. 
 
 Before I leave Aftrachan it may be pro- 
 per to rectify a miftaken opinion, which I 
 have obferved frequently to occur in grave 
 German authors, who, in treating of the 
 remarkable things of this country, relate, 
 that there grows in this defert, or ftepp, 
 adjoining to Aftrachan, in fome plenty, a 
 certain mrub or plant, called in the Ruffian 
 language Tartarfkey barafhka, i. <?. Tartari- 
 an lamb, with the fkin of which the caps 
 of the Armenians, Perfians, Tartars, &c. 
 are faced. They alfo write, that this Tar- 
 
 VOL. I. G tarfkey
 
 $o AJOURNEY 1716. 
 
 tarfkey barafhka partakes of animal as well 
 as vegetative life j that it eats up and de- 
 vours all the grafs and weeds within its 
 reach. Though it may be thought that 
 an opinion fo very abfurd could find no 
 credit with people of the meaneit {hare of 
 understanding, yet I have converfed with 
 fome who have feemed much inclined to 
 believe it ; fo very prevalent is the pro- 
 digious and abfurd with fome part of man- 
 kir>d. 
 
 In fearch of this wonderful plant I walk- 
 ed many a mile, accompanied by Tartars 
 who inhabit thefe deferts : But all I could 
 find out were fome dry bufhes, fcattered 
 here and there, which grow on a fingle 
 flalk, with a bumy top, of a brownifh co- 
 lour; the ftalk is about eighteen inches 
 high, the top confiding of {harp prickly 
 leaves. It is true, that no grafs or weeds 
 grow within the circle of its*fhade; a pro- 
 perty natural to many other plants here 
 and elfewhere. After further inquiry of 
 the more fenfible and experienced among 
 
 the
 
 1716. TO ISPAHAN. 51 
 
 the Tartars, I found they laughed at it as a 
 ridiculous fabje. 
 
 At Aftrachan they have great quantities 
 
 of lamb-fkins, gray and black ; fome wa- 
 
 i 
 
 ved, others curled, all naturally, and very 
 pretty, having a fine glofs, particularly the 
 waved* which* at a fmall diftance, appear 
 like the richeft watered tabby : They are 
 much efteemed, and are much ufed for the 
 lining of coats, and the turning up of caps, 
 in Perfia, Ruflia, and other parts. The 
 beft of thefe are brought from Bucharia, 
 Chiva, and the countries adjacent, and are 
 taken out of the ewe's belly, after fhe 
 hath been killed, or the lamb is killed im- 
 mediately after it is lambed ; for fuch a 
 {kin is equal in value to the ftieep. 
 
 The Kalmucks, and other Tartars, who 
 inhabit the defert, in the neighbourhood of 
 Aftrachan, have alfo lamb-fkins, which are 
 applied to the fame purpofes ; but the wool 
 of thefe .being rougher, and more hairy, 
 they are far inferior to thofe of Bucharia or 
 Chiva, both in glofs and beauty, as- alfo jn 
 
 the
 
 52 A JOURNEY 1716. 
 
 the dreffing, confequently in value. I have 
 known one Tingle lamb-fkin of Bucharia 
 fold for five or fix {hillings Sterling, when 
 one of thefe would not yield two {hil- 
 lings. 
 
 On the jth of Auguft we quitted Aftra- 
 chan in five veflels, three of them flat-bot- 
 tomed, and of about an hundred and fifty 
 tons burthen, with three mafts and ten guns 
 each ; the other two common barks. We 
 failed from Aftrachan about noon ; and 
 at night came to an anchor at a fifhery, 
 called Uttzugg. Both the banks are now 
 flat ; to the weftward barren fands, and to 
 the eaft marfhy and tall reeds, abounding 
 with vermine ; fo that we neither eat nor 
 flept in quiet, notwithstanding all the pre- 
 cautions we could ufc. I muft confefs 
 this place had an afped of horror, efpeci- 
 ally when it is coniidered, that, befides the 
 wild and difmal appearance of the banks, we 
 were carried down a mighty river, into a 
 great gulf, in many places of dangerous 
 navigation, and whofe fhores are inhabited 
 
 by
 
 t'fi6. TO ISPAHAN. 53 
 
 by inhofpitable and barbarous nations ; for 
 fuch I reckon all of them, except the Ruf- 
 fians and Perfians. 
 
 Next morning, at break of day, we got 
 under fail, and about ten entered the Caf- 
 pian Sea ; into which the river difcharges 
 itfelf by feven or eight large channels, and 
 many lefler ones : Two only of thefe chan- 
 nels are navigable by {hips of any burthen. 
 At night we caft anchor near four hillocks 
 of dry fand, caft up by the fea, called 
 Tzeterey Bugory, computed to be about 
 thirty verft from the mouth of the Volga : 
 All which diftance we had not above fix 
 or feven feet water ; and even this depth 
 is very narrow ; fo that the paflage is ex- 
 tremely dangerous in hard gales of wind. 
 
 The yth, early, we again fet fail with a 
 gentle breeze from the fhore, which foon 
 drove us into three fathom water, and cut 
 of fight of land ; the water however Hill 
 continued frefh as the river. About neon 
 the wind fhifted to the fouth, which obli- 
 ged us to come to an anchor, where we 
 
 lay
 
 54. A JOURNEY 1716. 
 
 lay for near three weeks in calms and con- 
 trary winds. 
 
 All this time we did not fee a fingle fhip, 
 befides our own, except one Rufsveffel that 
 came from Guilan in Perfia, with fome 
 Armenian merchants, who made a prefent 
 to' the ambaflador of a bafket of oranges, 
 melons, and other fruits, which was the 
 more acceptable, as our own provifions of 
 that kind were all fpent. As often as the 
 weather would permit we got under fail, 
 and endeavoured to reach the road of 
 Terky, a fmall fortified town, belonging to 
 the Ruffians, on the north-weft corner of 
 the Cafpian Sea, where we might be fup- 
 plied with provifions; but the continual 
 calms prevented our fuccefs. 
 
 On the evening of the 26th of Auguft 
 the wind changed to the north-weft ; we 
 hqifted all the fail we could, fleering our 
 courfe fouth fouth-eaft, and before night 
 pafled the ifland of Tullen, i. e. of Seals ; 
 many of which animals haunt this place* 
 Tt continued to blow hard the whole 
 
 night;
 
 1716. TO ISPAHAN. 5 <? 
 
 night ; and next morning we were in fight 
 of- the mountains called Shaffkall, which 
 were diftant about fifteen leagues. We pro- 
 ceeded the whole day, edging always a little 
 nearer to the fliore. 
 
 The 28th, in the evening, it fell calm ; 
 and, being about fix leagues off the land, 
 we caft anchor. Next day, the wind blow- 
 ing fair, in the afternoon we pafled the 
 town of Derbent. The ambaflador order- 
 ed the caftle to be faluted with nine guns ; 
 but it feems the people are, not accuftomed 
 to make any return. It is a place confider- 
 ably large, and the frontier of Perfia in this 
 quarter. It is fortified in the ancient man- 
 ner, with a ftrong (lone- wall, which reach*- 
 es from the mountains to the (here t fothat 
 no army can pafs this way, except moun- 
 taineers, or Tartars, who find roads every 
 where. Derbent, being a place of great 
 confequence, is provided plentifully with 
 cannon and ammunition, and a ftrong gar- 
 rifon, governed by a commandant appoint- 
 ed by the chan, or governor of Shamachy, 
 
 on
 
 56 A JOURNEY 1716, 
 
 on which province it depends. It is re- 
 ported that it was built by Alexander the 
 Great. About the place there ftill remain 
 feveral monuments of antiquity ; particu- 
 larly large ftones, with infcriptions in un- 
 common characters. South from Derbent 
 ftands ?i very high mountain, called Shach- 
 dagh, the top of which is covered with 
 fnow the whole year round, though the 
 vallies are exceedingly hot. 
 
 Auguft the 30th, we arrived at Nieza- 
 batt, the place where we intended to land, 
 on the territories of Perfia. It lies about 
 two days journey eaft from Derbent. 
 There being no harbour, nor creek, we 
 hauled up our (hips upon the fhore, which 
 we performed with little trouble, as they 
 were all fiat-bottomed. 
 
 The hip in which was our Secretary, 
 Monfieur Venigerkind, and feveral other of- 
 ficers, did not arrive till about three o'clock 
 afternoon. The wind was\now very high, 
 and a great fea upon the beach, which o- 
 bliged them to drop an anchor in the open 
 
 road ;
 
 1716. TO ISPAHAN. 57 
 
 road ; but the wind blowing dill harder, it 
 became dangerous to ride there ; the (kip- 
 per, therefore, dipt the cable, and flood out 
 to fea. The gentlemen, however, did not 
 like their fituation on board ; and, being 
 eager to get to land, ordered the mafter to 
 run the fhip afhore, and they would be ac- 
 countable for the confequences ; which he, 
 a Hollander, in the Czar's fervice, unwil- 
 lingly complied with, under an eafy fail, 
 about two miles eaftward of the place where 
 we lay. All hands went to their affiftance, 
 but without effect ; for, though the fhip 
 had received no damage, yet the fea run fo 
 high, that the boat could not be hoifted 
 out, to carry them to land. 
 
 In the mean time, the fecretary, impa- 
 tient of remaining on board in fuch circum- 
 flances, prevailed with one of the failors to 
 carry him afhore on his back : which being 
 done, he took his way alone towards the 
 other fhips ; but, his cloaths being drench- 
 ed in the falt-water, and the road lying 
 through deep fands, he was foon fatigued, 
 VOL. I. H and
 
 58 A JOURNEY 1716 
 
 and therefore retired nearer to the woods, 
 in hopes of finding a more fmooth and 
 eafy path. He difcovered what he fought ; 
 but, inftead of leading him to the flijps, it 
 carried him away from the fhore, and the 
 right courfe, into thick incumbered woods ; 
 and in thefe circumftances night overtook 
 him, utterly ignorant of the difmal and 
 dangerous wild into which he had wander- 
 ed. Thus deftitute of all affiftance, he 
 climbed a tree to fave himfelf from the 
 wild beafts with which thefe woods a- 
 bound ; and in this fituation continued all 
 the night, and till noon next day ; for the 
 people in his own (hip never doubted of 
 his having fafely reached our tents ; while 
 we, on the contrary, had not the leaft fu- 
 fpicion of his having come afhore. At laft, 
 however, about noon, his fervant came, in- 
 quiring for his matter, who, he told us, left 
 the fliip the night before. This account 
 filled us all with anxiety and apprehen- 
 fion ; as we certainly concluded he would 
 cither be torn to pieces by the wild beafts, 
 
 or
 
 1716. TO ISPAHAN. 59 
 
 or murdered by the favages who inhabit 
 thefe coafts. Immediate order was given 
 for all our people to repair to the woods 
 in fearch of him. He was at laft found 
 wandering from path to path, without 
 knowing one direction from another. 
 When he came to the tents he looked 
 ghaftly and wild, and related many ftrange 
 itories of what he had heard in the night. 
 All poflible care was taken to alleviate his 
 diftrefs. During his fleep, which was very 
 difcompofed, he often ftarted, groaned, and 
 fpoke ; and, even after he awaked, he 
 perfifted in affirming that there were num- 
 bers of people round the tree, in the night, 
 talking different languages. The imagina- 
 tion, no doubt, will naturally have a ftrong 
 effect on any man in fuch uncommon cir- 
 cumftances ; for, though the fecretary was 
 a man of penetration and found judgment, 
 
 in vain did we endeavour to undeceive 
 
 
 
 him, by reprefenting that it was nothing 
 but the jackals which made the noife he 
 had heard. 5 and that, to be convinced of 
 
 the
 
 60 A JOURNEY 
 
 the truth of this affirmation, he needed on- 
 ly, at the approach of night, to ftep a little 
 from the tents, where he would hear the 
 fame founds repeated. All was to no pur- 
 pofe, fince he infilled that the noife he 
 heard was quite different from the yelpings 
 of the jackals. He fcarce ever recovered 
 his former fagacity and foundnefs of mind. 
 I muft confefs the fituation of this gentle- 
 man moved me not a little, as he was a 
 man of parts and learning, with whom I 
 had contracted an intimate friendfhip. 
 
 Since I have mentioned the jackals, it 
 may not be improper to give a fhort ac- 
 count of thefe animals. They are of a fize 
 larger than a fox, of the fhape and colour 
 of a wolf, whh a fhort bumy tail. They 
 dig burrows in the earth, in which they 
 lie all day, and come out in the night to 
 range for prey. They afTemble in flocks 
 among the woods, and frequently near 
 towns and villages, when they make the 
 hideous noife formerly mentioned, refem- 
 bling, in fome meafure, a human voice, or 
 
 the
 
 1716. TO ISPAHAN. 61 
 
 the noife of the Tartars and Coflacks when 
 they attack their enemies. They have fine 
 nofes ; and hence the vulgar opinion has 
 arifen, that they hunt -prey for the lion. 
 They are in great plenty all over Perfia, 
 and efleemed harmlefs creatures. 
 
 As foon as we landed, the ambaffador 
 defpatched an interpreter to Schamachy, 
 to notify his arrival to the governour of 
 that place, and to defire him to fend camels 
 and horfes to tranfport him thither. The 
 interpreter was kindly received, and an or- 
 der was immediately ifTued out for anfwer- 
 ing his demands. 
 
 September the i ft, the chan of JShama- 
 chy fent an officer of diftinction to falute 
 the ambaffador ; and the next day a prefent 
 of provifions, confifting of an ox, fome 
 fheep, with fruits and confections. 
 
 About fix or eight leagues to the eaft.- 
 ward of Niezabatt is a high rock, called 
 Barmach, or the finger, upon the fhore, 
 which a great many of the Armenians vi- 
 fit annually, to pay their devotions. They 
 
 have
 
 6t A JOURNEY 1716. 
 
 have a tradition, that the prophet Elijah 
 lived fome years at this place. 
 
 September 2d, we were a little alarmed 
 with intelligence, that a confiderable body 
 of mountaineers had plundered fome vil- 
 lages in our neighbourhood. We had not 
 yet received any guard from the Perfians, 
 and were therefore obliged to take every 
 precaution poflible for our defence. We 
 armed all our own people, and all the fail- 
 ors ; and, befides thefe, we had twenty fol- 
 diers from the garrifon of Aftrachan. Can- 
 non were brought from the fhips, and 
 planted in proper places, to prevent a fur- 
 prife. Thefe preparations feem to have in- 
 timidated the undifciplined favages, for 
 they never attacked us. 
 
 Two days journey eaftward from Nieza- 
 batt ftand Abfheroon and Backu, two con- 
 fiderable towns. At the former is a good 
 harbour, reckoned the beft in the Cafpian 
 Sea, except that of Aftrabatt, which lies in 
 the fouth-eaft corner of it. All the reft are 
 
 fo
 
 1716. TO ISPAHAN. 5 3 
 
 fo dangerous, that they fcarce deferve the 
 name of harbours. 
 
 In the neighbourhood of Backu are ma- 
 ny fountains of Naphtha ; it is a fort of 
 petroleum, of a brown colour, and inflam- 
 mable nature. The Perfians burn it in their 
 lamps ; no rain can extinguifh it ; but the 
 fmell is difagreeable. I have feen of it as 
 clear as rock-water. 
 
 The Cafpian Sea is of an oblong irre- 
 gular figure, about one hundred and fifty 
 leagues in length, from north to fouth, 
 and forty or fifty leagues broad. The wa- 
 ter is exceflively fait, except where it is 
 fweetened by the Volga, which is at leaft 
 to the diftance of ten leagues from the in- 
 flux of that river. 
 
 The navigation of the Cafpian belongs 
 folely to the Ruffians ; the Perfians, and o- 
 ther borderers, having nothing but fifhing 
 boats. It contains abundance of fifh ; but 
 no ihell-fifh, except a kind of cockle, the 
 fhells of which are very pretty. In fome 
 
 places,
 
 64 A JOURNEY 1716. 
 
 places, there is a great depth of water, The 
 Perfians obferve that, of late, the fea has 
 retired confiderably from the fhore ; which 
 they reckon ominous, prefaging fome cala- 
 mity to the kingdom. It has no tides, but 
 fuch as are caufed by the wind ; and, not- 
 withftanding the great quantities of water 
 daily received, it continues nearly about the 
 fame height. Dr Halley has demonstrated, 
 that exhalation, in fo hot a climate, isfuffi- 
 cient to account for this phenomenon, 
 without having recourfe to fubterraneous 
 paflages. 
 
 The 4th, I was conducted by an Arme- 
 nian merchant fome leagues from our 
 tents, to vifit a Perfian. We were received 
 in a very complaifant and friendly man- 
 ner ; the houfe was clean, and the floor 
 fpread with carpets. Our entertainment 
 confifted of coffee and boiled rice. 
 
 On the nth, arrived two Jefuits from 
 India, named Valery and Martinet, on their 
 way to Rome. They petitioned the am- 
 baflador for a paffage in one of our fhips 
 
 to
 
 1716. TO ISPAHAN. 65 
 
 to Aftrachan, which was granted. About 
 this'time many of our retinue began to be 
 feized with different difeafes, particularly 
 fevers, fluxes, and agues, which, in a few 
 days, made fuch progrefs, that, at the am- 
 baflador's table, where feldom fewer than 
 ten dined, he and myielf only were pre- 
 fent. Thefe diftesnpers exhibited a moft 
 difagreeable profpedt, and made us wifh 
 earneftly to leave a jplace that threatened 
 our deftruction. For this purpofe, meflen- 
 gers were daily fent to the chan of Shama- 
 chy to defpatch the camels, horfes, and 
 mules. Some of thern, indeed, were al- 
 ready come, but not near the number we 
 needed ; for our numerous fick could on- 
 ly be tranfported on litters carried by 
 mules. 
 
 The 1 2th, a conductor, called Mayman- 
 der, arrived, with a guard of Perfian fol* 
 diers, and fome more cattle, which were 
 ftill too few. This officer is appointed by 
 the Shach or King to guide ambafladors to 
 court, and furnifh them with provifions, 
 VOL. L I eat-
 
 66 A JOURNEY 1716. 
 
 carriages, and lodgings, at the Shach's ex- 
 pence, from the time they enter the king- 
 dom. 
 
 Having accommodated ourfelves in the 
 beft manner we could, we quitted Nieza- 
 batt on the i8th, keeping along the fhore ; 
 and, at night, came to a fmall village, about 
 three agatz from Niezabatt. We found the 
 houfes all empty, the people haying fled to 
 the woods or mountains on our approach. 
 
 The 2Oth, we reached a village about 
 four agatz (an agatz is reckoned to be four 
 Englifh miles) from the former, where we 
 lodged again in empty houfes; and the 2ift 
 proceeded four agatz further, to a brook of 
 white and muddy water, where we pitched 
 our tents. About noon, next day, we came 
 to a fountain of pure water, under a great 
 oak. Here we halted two hours, to re- 
 frefh the fick ; and, after travelling four 
 agatz further, arrived at an old caravanfe- 
 ry ; a long day's journey for people in 
 fuch diftrefs. 
 
 The
 
 1716. TO ISPAHAN. 67 
 
 The caravanferies are generally large 
 fquare buildings, with a court in the middle. 
 All round there are rooms for lodging tra- 
 vellers, and on one fide a ftable for horfes. 
 They are of different fizes and conftruo 
 tions, according to the bounty or ability 
 of the founder. Some are built by chari- 
 table people, others by good kings. They 
 are fituated as near frefh water as poffible, 
 and about a day's journey from one ano- 
 ther. 
 
 As there are no inns in the eaft, thefe 
 caravanferies in fome meafure fupply that 
 defect, though nothing is found in them 
 but fhelter. They are, however, very con- 
 venient for travellers ; and fome of them 
 can contain five hundred men, with their 
 horfes. There is commonly an old man, 
 who cleans the rooms, and fetches neceffa- 
 ries from the next town or village. 
 
 The 23d, we halted to refrefh the fick ; 
 and here we buried two of our mechanics. 
 
 The 24th, we travelled to a ruinous ca- 
 ravanfery, about four agatz from the for- 
 mer*
 
 68 A JOURNEY 1716. 
 
 mer. This was the firft inftance that oc- 
 curred of remiffnefs and inattention in the 
 prefent government of Perfia ; for the King, 
 without attending to his own affairs, allows 
 himfelf to be guided entirely by thofe whofe 
 intereft it is to deceive him. Nothing, in 
 the judgment of a foreigner, 'can render a- 
 ny people more contemptible than the no- 
 torious negled: of fuch ufeful public edifi- 
 ces. This day we received another fupply 
 of provifions from the chan. 
 
 The 26th, we travelled to a plain within 
 a league of Shamachy, where we lay all 
 night, to be received into the town the day 
 following, in form and ceremony, accor- 
 ding to the cuftom of Perfia. At this place 
 died my friend, Captain Jacques de Vil- 
 lette. He was a gentleman of a good fa- 
 mily in France, and a very worthy mam 
 And, befides the Captain, two fervants died 
 here. 
 
 CHAP,
 
 1716. TO ISPAHAN. 69 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 Occurrences during our Stay at Sha- 
 machy. Our journey thence to 
 Tauris. 
 
 TH E 2/th, in the morning, came the 
 Kalentar and Dorruga, with many 
 of the inhabitants, to pay their compli- 
 ments to the ambaflador. Thefe officers are 
 next in rank under the chan, and have the 
 fole direction of affairs in his abfence. They 
 brought fome fine horfes, richly caparifon- 
 ed, for the chief of the retinue. As we ap- 
 proached the place, we were met by other 
 officers, particularly the Divan, Begg, and 
 Ifh-agaiTy, and magiftrates, all mounted on 
 ftately horfes, with rich furniture, which 
 
 made
 
 70 AJOURNEY 1716. 
 
 made a very fplendid appearance. Before 
 the ambaflador's horfe two young fellows 
 tumbled all the way, with great agility. A- 
 bout two o'clock we entered the city. 
 
 As we pafled along the ftreets, all the 
 tops of the houfes were filled with fpecla- 
 tors. At laft, the ambaffador arrived at the 
 houfe of one of the principal officers, which 
 was allotted entirely to him and his atten- 
 dants. The houfes in Perfia are moftly 
 flat-roofed. As there is but little rain in 
 this country, a very fmall declivity is fuffi- 
 cient to carry off the water. I compute the 
 diftance between Niezabatt and Shamachy 
 to be about twenty-five agatz, or an hun- 
 dred miles. 
 
 October ift^ I had a vifit from a gentle- 
 man well drefled in the Perfian habit, and 
 was not a little furprifed to hear him talk 
 good High Dutch. After fome converfa- 
 tion, he told me he was born at Dantzick ; 
 that in his youth he came to Perfia with a 
 Polifh ambafiador, who died at Ifpahan. 
 That, fome differences arifing between him 
 
 and
 
 1716. TO ISPAHAN. JT 
 
 and his countrymen, to end the difpute he 
 turned Mahometan, and fettled in Perfia, 
 where he now enjoyed a fmall falary as a 
 linguift. He had often repented of this 
 rafh ftep ; but, having a wife and children 
 at Shamachy, he could not abandon them. 
 
 The day following, the chan, with a 
 numerous retinue, paid a ceremonial vifit 
 to the ambafiador. The chan is a middle 
 aged man, of a graceful afpect, by birth a 
 Georgian, of Chriftian parents, but brought 
 up at court from his infancy : And it muft 
 be confefled that his treatment of the am- 
 baflador was extremely obliging. 
 
 The I4th, the chan fent an invitation 
 to the ambaflador to go a hunting, with 
 horfes for that purpofe. We marched a- 
 bout two or three miles to the eaftward, till 
 we came to a plain overgrown with fhort 
 reeds. We fprung a number of pheafants, 
 ten or fifteen whereof were killed by the 
 chan's hawks ; and feveral hares were run 
 down by the greyhounds, which were all 
 fent to the ambaflador's lodgings^ 
 
 About
 
 7* AJOURNEY 1716. 
 
 About this time, there happened a mif- 
 underftanding between the ambafTador and 
 fecretary, by the imprudence of the latter. 
 It is cuftomary for the Shach to make pre- 
 fents in money, or other things, to all am- 
 bafladors, according to the dignity of their 
 refpective matters ; and, though no money 
 had yet been granted, the unlucky fecretary, 
 poor gentleman ! not quite recovered, by 
 an unfeafonable and ill advifed claim, pre- 
 tended a right to part of the future dona- 
 tive. The ambaflador, on the contrary, 
 alledged, that the fecretary was entitled to 
 nothing from him, except the privilege of 
 his table, and provifions for his fervants. 
 Both my fituation in the retinue, and an 
 indifpofition, prevented my intermeddling 
 in this difpute. I only advifed the fecreta- 
 ry to poftpone his claim till fome more fa- 
 vourable opportunity. My advice, howe- 
 ver, had no effect, for the difference ftill 
 increafed, till the fecretary fell fick, and 
 was confined to his lodgings, where he died 
 fuddenly, on the 5th of November. 
 
 This
 
 1716. TO ISPAHAN. 73 
 
 This event was the more melancholy to 
 me, in particular, as it was unexpected. 
 By the death of this gentleman, I was de- 
 prived of another worthy friend. He was 
 a Saxon by birth ; was candid, honeft, and 
 fmcere ; and much efteemed by all his ac- 
 quaintance, for his learning and capacity. 
 
 A few days after, there arrived at Schama- 
 chy a Periian ambaflador, who had been in 
 France, and had returned homeward thro* 
 Ruffia. His behaviour in France, and in 
 other places, had been little for the honour 
 of his mafter. The miniftry at Ifpahan 
 had perfect intelligence of his whole con- 
 duct, which he came to unilerftand ; and, 
 being afraid to undergo a trial at court^ 
 went directly to the city of Erivan, the 
 place of his residence when in his own 
 country, where, as it was reported, he poi- 
 foned himfelf. He had treated a French 
 engineer, whom he engaged in the fervice 
 of his mafter, fo cruelly, that he died two 
 days after coming to Shamachy. 
 
 VOL. I. K The
 
 5^ A JOURNEY 1716. 
 
 The 25th, I dined with father Peter Ri- 
 card, in company with Monfieur Bourgard, 
 a French' merchant. This father hath lived 
 as a miffionary in. different places of Perfia 
 for many years : He had ftudied phyfic, 
 which he pracYifed occafionally, and there- 
 by introduced himfelf to an acquaintance 
 with many families of diftindtion : He is a 
 man of a grave and fober deportment, 
 which procures him great refpeft : He has 
 a fmall congregation at this place, confifting 
 only of Chriftian Armenians, who have 
 been converted from the communion of the 
 Eaftern to the Weftern Church; for it is a 
 capital crjme to convert a Mahometan. 
 Bourgard was employed by the Englifh fac- 
 tory at Ifpahan, to buy raw filks here to 
 be fent to Aleppo. 
 
 The ambaflador fent a prefent to the 
 chan, of fables, and other rich furs, of con- 
 fiderable value ; and had, in return, a fine 
 horfe, with a faddle, bridle, and other trap- 
 pings, mounted with gold. 
 
 Some
 
 TO ISPAHAN. 75 
 
 Some time after, there arofe a difpute 
 between the ambaflador and the chan, a- 
 bout the Shach's gratuity; the firft thought 
 the fum offered was too fmall, while the 
 latter affirmed he had no authority for a 
 greater allowance. The determination of 
 this affair detained us longer than we in- 
 tended to ftay ; however, in the mean time, 
 camels and horfes were ordered to be got 
 ready. After many meflages o'n both fides, 
 the chan, unwilling to let the Ambaflador 
 depart unfatisfied, fent Monfieur Bourgaifd 
 with an offer of ten tomans (a toman is e- 
 qual to three pounds Sterling,) a-day, du- 
 ring his journey to Ifpahan, and that fum 
 for three days only of the time he conti- 
 nued at Shamachy : This propofal was at 
 laft accepted, and the money paid. I (hall, 
 before we leave this place, add a few re- 
 marks on the city and its environs. 
 
 Shamachy is fituated in about 40 degrees 
 north latitude : It was anciently part of 
 Media; but now the capital of an extenfive 
 province; called Shirvan. The city ftand^ 
 
 oa
 
 '? A JOURNEY 1716. 
 
 on the declivity of a hill, inclining to the 
 fouth, and rifes toward the top in form of 
 an amphitheatre : The place is large, but 
 the houfes are meanly built, excepting thofe 
 of the governour, the chief magiftrates, and 
 a few rich merchants ; the ftreets are nar- 
 row and irregular : The greater part of the 
 inhabitants are Perfians ; there is alfo a 
 considerable number of Georgians and Ar- 
 menians: The vulgar language is Turkifh, 
 but the people of (Mindion fpeak Perfian. 
 The air is more healthy than at places nearer 
 to the Cafpian Sea. 
 
 Above the town, on the fummit of the hill, 
 Hands an high edifice, having many win- 
 dows and a gallery, in which, every day at 
 the rifmg and fetting of the fun, is held a 
 kind of concert of muiic, compofed of long 
 trumpets, large drums, and hautboys, which 
 make a dreadful found. It is reported, 
 that this cuftom is as ancient as the time of 
 Alexander the Great. 
 
 There are alfo in the city feveral mofques,, 
 with high pillars adjoining^, which the 
 
 moulla
 
 1716. TO ISPAHAN. 77 
 
 moulla or prieft afcends every day at twelve 
 o'clock, to call the people to prayers ; for 
 the Mahometans ufe no bells. They have, 
 befides, feveral public baths, fome for men, 
 others for the women, to which both fexes 
 refort daily for ablution, conformably 'to 
 the law of their religkm. The women go 
 generally in companies of five or fix, fo 
 concealed with a white veil, that nothing 
 of them is vifible but the eyes and nofe. 
 There are feveral fpacious caravanferies, 
 very convenient for Grangers or merchants, 
 who there expofe their commodities, for 
 which they pay a,fmall impoft. 
 
 There is a confiderable traffick at this 
 place, particularly in raw filk, which is pro- 
 duced in the neighbourhood ; the greateft 
 part whereof is purchafed 4 by the Englifh 
 and Dutch factories at Ifpahan, and fent to 
 Aleppo ; alfo cotton, which indeed is moftly 
 fold to the natives, and confumed in fluffs 
 for their own ufe. The country about 
 Shamachy, befides many kinds of fruits, 
 prqduces plenty of wheat, barley, and very 
 
 fine
 
 7* , A JOURNEY 1716. 
 
 fine grapes, from which the Chriftians make 
 very good wine ; they keep it in great jars 
 refembling the Florence oil ones, which 
 they depofit under ground in their gardens, 
 covering them above with a thin ftone, 
 neatly pafted about the edges, for. the bet- 
 ter prefervation of the liquor. When they 
 give an entertainment, they fpread carpets 
 round the jar, which is generally placed in 
 a fhade, and on thefe the guefts are feated. 
 About two miles to the northward of the 
 city, ftands a high mountain, named Gui- 
 liftan-dagh, where are feen the ruins of an 
 ancient caftle, built of ftone ; it appeared 
 not to be of Eaftern architecture. 1 could 
 procure no information who was the foun- 
 der, or by whom it was demolimed. Ad- 
 joining to this mountain is another, on 
 which are the tombs of two faints, or he- 
 roes ; whither great numbers of devout 
 people come annually to worship. I ob- 
 ferved near thefe combs, feveral hallowed 
 rocks covered with fmall fhelis brought hi- 
 ther by the worfhippers ; I obferved like* 
 
 wife,
 
 1716. TO ISPAHAN. 
 
 wife, on the common rocks, many fhells 
 imprinted and petrified, which feemed very 
 extraordinary. 
 
 December 4th, all things being prepared 
 for our departure, we were furnimed by 
 the conductor, or maymander, -with one 
 hundred and fixty camels, and near two 
 hundred horfes and mules, on which we 
 left Shamachy, travelling along the rifing 
 grounds. We halted two days at an Ar- 
 menian village, called Kalck-anii. 
 
 On the yth, we defcended into a defert 
 plain, called by the Ruffians Mugan, and 
 by the Perfians Kurdiftan. At mid-night 
 we came to fome wells of brackifh water, 
 where we lodged in fuch tents as are ufed 
 by the inhabitants, which were prepared by 
 the conductor. 
 
 We proceeded the loth five agatz, to a 
 little copfe-wood, where was found tolera- 
 ble water, and the nth, arrived at the ri- 
 ver Kure, or Cyre, which we pafled on a 
 bridge of boats, and pitched our tents on 
 
 the
 
 go A JOURNEY 1716. 
 
 the other fide. The water of the river is 
 fweet and wholefome. 
 
 About half a league above the bridge, 
 the river Araxis, now Arras, falls into the 
 Kure, which together form a confiderable 
 ftream, that difcharges itfelf into the Caf- 
 pian Sea, about a day's journey below the 
 bridge, running northward all the way ; 
 but the mouth of the river is fo choaked up 
 \vith fand, that it is navigable by iio vefTel 
 of any burden. 
 
 The river Kure divides the province of 
 Shirvan from Kurdiftan. The Kurdy, pro- 
 bably fo called from the name of the river, 
 are a very ancient people, and feem to be 
 the fame whom Xenophon, in the AnabafiSj 
 calls Karduchi, who fo ftrenuoufly oppo- 
 fed his paflage in his famous retreat from 
 Artaxerxes. They are ftill reckoned a 
 brave people. Their horfes are moft e- 
 fteemed of any in Perfia, both for beauty 
 and ftrength. 
 
 We left the Kure on the I3th, and pro- 
 ceeded feven agatz to Chuda-tzoolatzy, 
 
 where
 
 TO ISPAHAN. 8x 
 
 where the water was very brackifti and 
 muddy. The country around appeared 
 plain as the fea. 
 
 Setting out early next morning, we tra- 
 velled ten agatz, and in the evening reach- 
 ed a brook of tolerable water, called Bolgar* 
 This was the laft day's journey in the plain 
 of Mugan. The inhabitants, the Kurdy, 
 live in tents all the year. The foil is very 
 dry and barren, notwithftanding the cattle 
 are in good condition, and the mutton par- 
 ticularly very good. 
 
 While we halted about noon, fome Per- 
 fian fportfmen, who, by their drefs, feemed 
 perfons of diftinction, pitched their tents 
 near ours : They fent the ambafTador a pre- 
 fent of wild-fowl, and an antelope. The 
 ambaflador invited them to mare a travel- 
 ler's dinner. Three of the gentlemen ac- 
 cepted the invitation, butexcufed themfelves 
 from eating any thing, pretending they had 
 already dined ; but it is well known that 
 the Mahometans fcruple to eat with Chrif- 
 tians ; each of them, however, drank a difh 
 
 VOL. I. L of
 
 $2 A JOURNEY 1716. 
 
 of coffee, and an old man a dram of brandy. 
 They had feveral greyhounds, and a couple 
 of large hawks, which were trained to fly 
 at antelopes ; the hawks cannot hold indeed 
 fo ftrong a creature as an antelope, but they 
 fly about its head, and thereby retard its 
 velocity, till the greyhounds, or horfemen, 
 overtake it ; for the antelope far out-runs 
 any greyhound I ever faw. In this defert, 
 I have feen flocks of them confifting of two 
 or three hundred. 
 
 In manning hawks to fly at antelopes, 
 they fluff the {kins of thefe animals with 
 flraw, and feed the hawk between their 
 horns, placing food there for that purpofe ; 
 hence they are accuftomed to hover round 
 the head, which proves the deftruction of 
 thefe creatures. I was informed, that it 
 is in this manner the Tartars manage hawks 
 to fly at foxes and wolves. Thefe particu- 
 lars may poflibly appear immaterial ; how- 
 ever, as they may contribute to amufe the 
 reader, it was thought not improper to in- 
 fert them. 
 
 After
 
 TO ISPAHAN. 83 
 
 After refting the i6th, we travelled next 
 day four agatz, to the foot of a very high 
 mountain, where we found a few poor cot- 
 tages, deferted by their inhabitants on our 
 approach. The water was in plenty and 
 good. The weather was very cold, and no 
 fire-wood could be got, except a little we 
 brought along with us. One of our people 
 ftraggling too near the rocks, was danger- 
 oufly wounded with a flone, thrown by 
 fome of thefe cottagers who had retired 
 thither. On thefe rocks I faw a creature 
 like a goat, called by the Germans Stein- 
 buck ; it is much bigger than the common 
 kind of thefe animals, and its horns are of 
 a prodigious fize. 
 
 The 1 8th, we advanced five agatz far- 
 ther; and the igth, feven agatz, to a large 
 village, called Katchoochana, where the 
 Chan of Mugan has a good houfe. The 
 weather being cold and frofty, we continued 
 here all the 2Oth. 
 
 The 2 1 ft, we travelled five agatz, to a 
 village under a great mountain, where was 
 
 a
 
 84 A JOURNEY 1716. 
 
 , t 
 
 a water mill for grinding corn, the firfc 
 
 machine of that fort 1 faw in Perfia. 
 
 The 22cl, we came to a fmall town called 
 Aggar. The kalentar ordered the citizens 
 to arm and oppofe our entry ; and, not- 
 withftanding the remonftranccs of our con- 
 ductor, he perfifted unalterable in his pur- 
 pofe, affirming he had no order to admit 
 fuch a body of armed men. He did not 
 however refufe us provifions, wood and 
 water, for money. We were therefore o- 
 bliged to content ourfelves with thefe, and 
 lodge in our tents on an open field, in cole] 
 weather. 
 
 Next day we proceeded two or three a- 
 gatz, to a large populous village, where the 
 people, in imitation of thofe at Aggar, af- 
 femblcd in arms, and barricadoed ail their 
 entries, refufmg us admittance ; they beat 
 our quarter- mafter, a Perfian officer belong- 
 ing to ihe conductor, for off ei ing to force 
 his way into the place We therefore lodged 
 again in the open air. They frnt out fome 
 fire-wood, and whatever elfe they could 
 
 ipaie,
 
 1716. TO ISPAHAN. 
 
 fpare. I muft: confefs I could fcarce blame 
 thefe people for their behaviour ; becaufe, 
 had we been admitted, the inhabitants muft 
 all have left their own houfes ; and where 
 could a parcel of poor women and children 
 have found flicker in fuch extremity of 
 cold. 
 
 The 24th, we continued our journey be- 
 tween two g;eat mountains, where the 
 north wind was very piercing. We pafled 
 an old ruinous caravanfery, and arrived in 
 the evening at an empty village, which the 
 natives had forfook the day before. AH 
 next day we halted, being Chrift mafs. 
 
 The 26th we marched about four agatz, 
 to another village. The inhabitants were 
 fo hcipitable as to afford us lodging, but 
 charged dear for every thing we needed, 
 efpecially wood, which was bought at the 
 rate of three-pence for feven pounds. 
 
 On the 2jih we travelled over exceeding 
 high mountains, from whence, I was told 
 by an Armenian merchant in our company, 
 might be feen, in a clear day, the top of 
 
 the
 
 ** A JOURNEY 1716. 
 
 the famous mount Ararat, called by the Per- 
 fians Aggry, by the Armenians Meflin ; 
 the fummit is constantly covered with fnow, 
 and often with a cloud : It is the higheft 
 of all that chain of mountains in Armenia, 
 on which we then ftood. 
 
 How far my information might be true, 
 I cannot determine ; but certain it is, that 
 when the Armenians fee vhis mountain, 
 they make a fign of the crofs, and fay their 
 prayers* as is their cuftom, when they ap- 
 proach any place which they efteem ficred. 
 In the evening we arrived at the city of 
 Tauris,Terris, orTebris, as it is pronounced 
 by fome. The ambaflador was met, about 
 half a mile from the place, by the kalentar, 
 and chief officers, who, after the common 
 falutations, conducted him to his lodgings.* 
 Our baggage was depofited in a large cara- 
 vanfery in the neighbourhood. 
 
 CHAP.
 
 1716. TO ISPAHAN. 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 \ 
 Occurrences during our ft ay at Tau* 
 
 ris : Our journey thence to Jfpa* 
 han. 
 
 TAURIS is a large and populous city, 
 the capital of the province of that 
 name, and the refidence of the chan. It 
 is (ituated in a fruitful plain, encompafled 
 by the high rocks of mount Tauris, about 
 ten days journey from Shamachy, and 
 twenty-five from Ifpahan ; I mean to a 
 caravan. It is fuppofed to be the ancient 
 metropolis of Media. It is ftill of confi- 
 derable extent ; but not near what it has 
 been. There are yet to be ieen many cu~ 
 rious remains of ancient grandeur ; parti- 
 cularly an old temple, converted into a 
 
 mofque,
 
 8$ A JOURNEY 
 
 mofque, now neglected and ruinous. The 
 roof is fupported by many {lately pillars of 
 porphyry, almoft entire, fome whereof are 
 of a greenifh colour, with other colours and 
 veins of gold interfperfed. The propor- 
 tions feemed to be regular, and the works 
 manfhip very fine and curious. In fhort, 
 I am unable to defcribe the fymmetry and 
 beauty of thefe pillars, and wonder how 
 they have efcaped the fury of fo many 
 barbarians. It is no lefs furprifing where 
 were got fuch mafly pieces of marble, fee- 
 ing nothing like them is now to be found 
 in this country. Thefe particulars demon- 
 ftrate the ancient grandeur and riches of 
 this place. It is, however, a deplorable 
 truth, that this country in general hath 
 undergone fo many revolutions fmce the 
 time of Alexander the Great, her firft con- 
 queror, that, a few places excepted, the 
 prefent names, and descriptions of cities 
 and provinces, bear almoft no refemblance 
 to thofe of antiquity, fo that one can fcarce 
 imagine them accounts of the fame places : 
 
 To
 
 1716. TO ISPAHAN. 89 
 
 To fuch a degree hath time and barbarous 
 invaders changed the appearances of things. 
 Fire and fword have raged to deftroy mag- 
 nificent cities ; ftately temples and palaces 
 are demolifhed ; whole provinces depopu- 
 lated ; and fruitful fields converted into a 
 defert, by diverting the fprings, or turning 
 the rivers that watered them into other 
 channels. Such are the confequences of 
 lawlefs ambition on the fined productions 
 of nature and art. The laft is a circurn- 
 ftance to which few countries are fo much 
 expofed as Perfia ; for in the inland part 
 of it there is almoft no rain, which obliges 
 the inhabitants to water all their vegetables 
 from fprings and brooks. They often 
 convey even rivers feveral leagues, in chan- 
 nels under ground, for this purpofe. The 
 dew indeed is very plentiful, but would be 
 infufEcient of itfelf for the purpofes of ve- 
 getation. 
 
 The ftreets of Tauris are narrow and ir- 
 regular. The houfes are built with bricks 
 made of mud, mixed with chopped draw, 
 
 VOL. I. M and
 
 90 A JOURNEY 
 
 and dried in the fun ; the governour's pa- 
 lace indeed, and a few more houfesj are 
 built of ftone, and make a good appear- 
 ance. The roofs are generally flat, and 
 covered with a terrace. The walls are 
 white-warned on the infide, and look very 
 white and clean. The floors of every 
 houfe are fpread with carpets, or mats, ac- 
 cording to the circumftances of the inha- 
 bitants. The people of diftincYion have 
 great halls of audience in their outer 
 courts, arched with fquare bricks, which 
 are plaiftered and painted with flowers : 
 This is done at a fmall expence, and makes 
 a very fine mow. 
 
 There are feveral well built mofques, 
 with (lately minorets, or pillars, which the 
 moulla afcends to call the people to pray- 
 ers ; alfo an high' building for the rnufic, 
 rhat plays evening and morning, as men- 
 tioned ac Shamachy. There are alfo fome 
 large caravanferies ; fo that no ftrange*. 
 can be at a lofs for lodging at a fmall ex- 
 pence. The city is quite open, having no 
 
 caftle,
 
 1716. TO ISPAHAN. 91 
 
 caftle, or fortification to defend it. Indeed 
 
 one would imagine the defert mountains, 
 < 
 
 fcarcity of water, and other obftrudions, 
 would be a fufficient defence againft all in- 
 vafions : The fury of the Turks, however, 
 in their wars with Perfia, furmounted all 
 thefe obftacles. 
 
 Tauris is fupplied with water from a 
 brook, called Shankuy, which runs through 
 the city, and fome fprings in.the neighbour- 
 hood. The inhabitants are moftiy Perfi- 
 ans, though there are among them many 
 Armenians. They have a confiderable 
 commerce in raw-filk, and manufactories 
 of carpets, and filk and cotton (luffs. They 
 have great crops of wheat and barley, when 
 at the trouble and expence of watering the 
 fields : But their principal fupport is rice, 
 brought from the province of Guilan, 
 where it grows very plentifully ; for this 
 kind of grain, which of all other thrives 
 beft on wet land, agrees wonderfully with 
 that rich moift foil near the Cafpian Sea. 
 
 The
 
 9 1 A JOURNEY 1716. 
 
 The Capuchin miflionaries have a con- 
 vent at this place for the ufe of the Arme- 
 nians of the Roman Catholic profeffion ; 
 which is fuperintended by two fathers of 
 that order. 
 
 About a league fyom the city, on the 
 road to Ifpahan, are feen the ruins of a 
 bridge, on the top of a hill, where, I be- 
 lieve, no water has run fince the deluge. 
 It is faid that it was built by a whimficai 
 prieft, in order to introduce himlelf to the 
 King, Shach Abbafs, who could not avoid 
 taking notice, when he pafled that way, of 
 fuch an extraordinary appearance. 
 
 About four or five leagues from Tauris, 
 in a plain calied Roomy ; there are feveral 
 fprings of water that petrify wood, and, I 
 have been informed, even, reptiles, iuch as 
 lizards. One thing is certain, that, after a 
 ftagnation of this water, for a certain time, 
 there is a fubftance like marble found at 
 the hot' om, which the Perfians cut into any 
 breadth or length at pleafure. 1 have fecrj 
 of it two or three inches thick. It is eafily 
 
 polifhed,
 
 j 7 i 7 . TO ISPAHAN. 93 
 
 polifhed, and is diaphanous, but not tranf- 
 parent. After fawing it into flabs, they 
 fix them for windows in their bagnios and 
 private apartments. Perhaps, it is not im- 
 probable, the large pillars, formerly men- 
 tioned, might be hewn out of this kind of 
 marble. 
 
 During our flay at Tauris, little material 
 happened. The weather continued very 
 cold, which, together with want of horfes 
 and camels, detained us longer than we 
 expected. I could not but pity the poor 
 people of this place ; the cold was fo ex- 
 ceffive, and bread, and other neceffaries fo 
 dear, that, I was informed, many of them 
 perifhed in the ftreets. 
 
 January 2d, 1717, Monfieur Ricard, a 
 French Jefuit, arrived, in his way to Ifpa- 
 han, with fome letters from Rome to the 
 Sophy. He fent Monfieur Duffus, one of 
 his retinue, with his compliments to our 
 ambaflkdor. 
 
 The Chan being abfent, the Vizir, who 
 is his lieutenant, came the 6th, in great 
 
 Hate,
 
 $4 AJOURNEY 1717. 
 
 ftate, to vifit the ambaflador ; who, on the 
 nth, returned the compliment, attended 
 with all his retinue. He was received in a 
 magnificent hall, fpread with fine carpets. 
 There was a feat placed for the ambaflador ; 
 but the reft of the company fat crofs-legged 
 on the carpets, in the Perfian manner. 
 
 The 2oth there was a great fall of fnow, 
 which very much foftened the cold piercing 
 northerly winds. 
 
 The 23d, having, with great difficulty, 
 procured horfes and camels, we left Tauris, 
 and travelled two agatz through deep 
 fnow, which incommoded us not .a little ; 
 particularly on account of the camels, who 
 Cannot bear deep roads. 
 
 The 24th and 2fth, the roads were im- 
 paflable. I faw here a male camel trample 
 one of his keepers under his feet : For, at 
 this feafon, when the females are rutting, 
 the males are very furious and ungovern- 
 able, and muft be managed with great cau- 
 tion. 
 
 The
 
 1717, TO ISPAHAN. 95- 
 
 The 26th, we travelled two agatz, to a 
 fpacious well-built caravanfery, founded 
 by Shach Sephy, fufficient to contain fome 
 hundreds of men and horfes. Here we 
 halted fome time, and proceeded in the af- 
 ternoon five agatz farther. In this day's 
 journey you have the choice of two roads, 
 both leading to Ifpahan ; one through the 
 cities of Ardeville and Cafbin, and the o- 
 ther by Zengan and Sultany ; the laft 
 whereof we choofed, being fomewhat 
 fhorter. 
 
 Ardeville is reported to be a very fine 
 place ; and is famous for the monuments 
 of Shach Sephy the firft, and other Perfian 
 princes and heroes, efteemed for their vir- 
 tue and piety. A great many devout people 
 come from all parts of the country to wor- 
 fhip at thefe tombs, where a confiderable 
 charity is daily diftributed to the poor pil- 
 grims ; to fupport which, there is a fund 
 fettled by the King, with proper officers 
 appointed to fuperintend the management 
 of it, and prevent frauds. I wanted much 
 
 to
 
 A JOURNEY 1717, 
 
 to vifit this place, but found it impradi- 
 cable. 
 
 The 27th, we advanced three agatz, 
 through deep fnow, to a caravanfery built 
 of bricks. We were at no lofs for water 
 while the fnow lay upon the ground. The 
 next day we reached a large village, called 
 Kara-China, inhabited by Perfians and Ar- 
 menians. About a mile from the place we 
 were met by an Armenian prieft, attended 
 by a company of country people, who came 
 to welcome us as fellow Chriftians, One 
 of them carried a painted crucifix, raifed 
 on a long pole ; others played on flutes and 
 hautboys, 'and other mufical inftruments, 
 to which one or two perfons kept time, by 
 beating two thin brafs plates againft each 
 other ; and many of them fung hymns 
 and pfalms. In this manner they accom- 
 panied us to our lodgings, where we were 
 better accommodated than we had been 
 hitherto. We received from thefe people, 
 in particular, very good wine and grapes, 
 which they preferve, through the winter 
 
 by
 
 1717. TO ISPAHAN. 97 
 
 by hanging them in dry and open pla- 
 ces. 
 
 : 
 
 About this time many of our people had 
 fore eyes, and fwelled faces, caufed by the 
 ftrong reflexion of the fun-beams from the 
 fnow. The Perfians themfelves are liable 
 to the fame diforders. As a remedy, they 
 wear a fillet of net-work, made of black 
 horfe hair, over their eyes, which I found, 
 by experience, altogether effectual. 
 
 The 3 1 ft, we fet out early, and travelled 
 four agatz to Turkoma, a large village. 
 The fnow continued very deep. Here we 
 were obliged to wait for our camels, fome 
 of which did not arrive till next day. 
 
 February 2d, we travelled eight agatz 
 to a little town called Mianna, where is a 
 caravanfery for horfes only. Here we bu- 
 ried another of our people. 
 
 The 4th, after two hours march, we 
 pa(Ted a river, over which is a fine ftone- 
 bridge, (landing under an high mountain, 
 called Kaplanton. Leaving that place, we 
 faw, on the left hand, the ruins of an old 
 
 VOL. I. N fortifi-
 
 & A JOURNEY 
 
 fortification. We repafled the river on 
 another ftone-bridge ; thence to a caravan- 
 fery-j called Tzamatura, and at night reach- 
 ed another, called Sartzam, being eight 
 agatz from Mianna. Here we halted till 
 our camels arrived ; the greateft part 
 whereof came not before next day. We 
 perceived the depth of the fnow to lefTen 
 daily, as we advanced to the fouth. 
 
 The 7th, we travelled five agatz to a 
 fmall town named Zengan, where we lod- 
 ged in a good caravanfery. The Sultan, or 
 chief magiftrate, waited on us, and gave us 
 a friendly and hofpitable reception. He 
 has under his jurifdidion both this place 
 and Sultany ; at, each he refides half the 
 year by turns. 
 
 Here we met a Ruffian merchant, who 
 had about fifteen or twenty camels loaden 
 with various kinds of merchandife, going 
 to Bucharia. 
 
 We halted two days, on account of the 
 deep fnow in this neighbourhood ; and the 
 loth, after travelling fix agatz, came to 
 
 Sultany,
 
 J 7 i 7 . TO ISPAHAN. 99 
 
 Sultany. This place is at prefent fmall 
 and inconsiderable, though it appears to 
 have been a great and famous city in for- 
 mer times. There are Fill to be feen fe- 
 veral ftately mofques and minorets ; one 
 of thefe mofques is the tomb of a Perfian 
 prince, called Chudabendie, which has a 
 brafs gate of lattice work, feemingly of 
 great antiquity. In the fame mofque is 
 the tomb of Sultan Bajazat, fon to Chuda- 
 bendie. 
 
 On the 1 2th, we travelled four agatz to 
 a village, where we ftaid all night ; and 
 the 1 3th, three agatz to another, through 
 deep fnow, which prevented our proceed- 
 ing next day. 
 
 The 1 5th, we travelled five agatz, and 
 the 1 6th four, to a large village called 
 Guiga Zayn. At this place a Ruffian 
 youth applied to the ambaflador for free- 
 dom and protection. He had been carried 
 away by the Tartars, from fome of the 
 fouthern provinces of Ruffia, and was fold 
 fome years before in Perfia. He was for,- 
 
 ced
 
 loo AJOURNEY 17171 
 
 cecl to turn Mahometan ; had almoft for- 
 got his mother tongue ; and was obliged 
 to explain himfelf by an interpreter. The 
 ambaflador afforded him the protection he 
 fought. His mafter claimed either his flave 
 or the money he had paid for him ; neither 
 of which demands could be granted. 
 
 The 1 8th, we arrived at Sexabbatt, a vil- 
 lage four agatz from the former, where 
 we quartered that night, and refted all the 
 next day. 
 
 The 2Oth, we advanced three agatz to 
 Arazant, a fmall village. This diftrict be- 
 ing much peftered with ftrong gangs of 
 highway-men, we marched with great cir- 
 cumlpection ; and in the night the baggage 
 was guarded, both by our own people and 
 the conductor's foldiers. 
 
 The 2ift, after a journey of three hours, 
 we came to an old caravanfery, called Id- 
 j-oop, where we refted ; then advanced four 
 agatz to another, called Kockera, fituated in 
 an extenfive plain. The fnow was now 
 altogether gone, and the water at this place 
 
 very
 
 1717. TO ISPAHAN. 
 
 .very bad. In an upper room of this cara- 
 vanfery, I faw the names of many Euro- 
 peans cut on the wall, in different lan- 
 guages : among which was that of Olea- 
 rius, fecretary to the Holftein ambafladors, 
 who publifhed a very exacl: account of that 
 fruitlefs embafly. 
 
 The 2 id of February we fet out very 
 Carly, and in three hours reached Denggie, 
 a caravanfery, where we halted for refrefh- 
 ment ; and at night arrived at Saba, or Sa- 
 va, feven agatz from Kockera. 
 
 Saba appears, from many ruins, to have 
 been a place of great note. It ftands in a 
 fruitful and extenfive plain, which produ- 
 ces all forts of fruit natural to the climate, 
 particularly pomegranates, the largeft I have 
 feen. The trees were now in full bloom, 
 and had a very fine appearance. Some 
 years ago, this place was almoft ruined by 
 a deluge. It has been repairing ever lince, 
 but is ftill far from its former condition. 
 
 The 24th, our road lay through a defert 
 and barren plain, abounding with faltpetre. 
 
 We
 
 A JOURNEY 1717, 
 
 We travelled fix agatz to Teffrabatt, a new 
 caravanfery ; and the 25th, five agatz, to 
 the town of Koom. 
 
 About two leagues from Koom we faw 
 a round hill to the left, called in Turkifh 
 Gedeen-Gedmaze, which fignifies, that, 
 whoever goes up never returns ; which, 
 the Perfians fay, was the fate of a page fent 
 up by Shach Abbafs, with 'a lighted torch 
 in his hand. However this be, it is cer- 
 tainly no eafy matter to afcend this place ; 
 becaufe the whole hill confifts of fand, 
 which is fhifted from place to place by the 
 wind, and muft foon tire whoever attempts 
 to climb it. 
 
 Koom is reckoned among the chief towns 
 in Perfia, and is the refidence of a chan. It 
 is fituated in a fertile plain, well watered 
 by a pretty large river, over which is a 
 fine ftone-bridge. In the town is a fpa- 
 cious caravanfery, and feveral well built 
 mofques and minorets. One of thefe 
 mofques is highly efteemed by, the Perfians, 
 becaufe of the fepulchre of Shach Sephy 
 
 and
 
 ISPAHAN. 
 
 and his fon Shach Abbafs the Second, and 
 that of Sidy Fathima, grand-daughter to 
 their prophet Mahomet. Thefe tombs are 
 much frequented by pilgrims, from all parts 
 of Perfia, who refort hither once a year, to 
 pay their devotions ; and are fupported by 
 a fund appropriated to that purpofe. 
 
 Before you reach the mofque, you pafs 
 through three neat courts ; and, in the 
 middle of the fourth, where the mofque 
 (lands, there is a large bafon of clear water. 
 Above the gate are engraven, in gilt letters, 
 the names of the deceafed princes, with 
 fome verfes in their praife. The monu- 
 ment of Sidy Fathima (lands in the front 
 of the building, encompafled with a grate 
 work of pure filver, very valuable. To 
 each of the princes are confecrated magni- 
 ficent apartments, where the priefts read 
 the Koran night and day. 
 
 This is alfo a place of refuge for debt- 
 ors, and unfortunate people, who are main- 
 tained at the public expence. Adjoining 
 to the mofque is a large hall, where alms 
 
 are
 
 Io 4 A JOURNET 1717; 
 
 are daily diftributed to the poor. Few Chrif- 
 tians are admitted into this facred place. 
 The ambaflador, however, with a few of 
 the retinue, obtained this favour. Koom is 
 famous for manufacturing the beft blades, 
 in all Perfia, for fabres and poinards. 
 
 The 27th, we travelled from Koom, five 
 agatz to Kaflirn-abbat, a jconfiderable vil- 
 lage, where we lodged. The weather now 
 began to be fo hot, that we could travel 
 only in the morning and evening. 
 
 On the 28th, after travelling fix agatz, 
 we came to Sinnbzyn, another village. 
 Here our huntfman caught a porcupine, 
 and brought it home alive. 
 
 March ift, we arrived at a place called 
 Kafhan, fix agatz from the former. At 
 fome diftance, we were met by the doroga, 
 or judge, attended by about fifty horfemen. 
 He came to falute the ambaflador, and con- 
 ducted him to his lodgings. The houfe be- 
 longed to the Shach, and was pleafantly 
 fituated in the middle of a fine garden, 
 planted with various kinds of fruit trees. 
 
 Kafhan
 
 1717. TO ISPAHAN, 105 
 
 Kaftan is a large and populous city. It 
 is fituated in a fertile plain, which fecures 
 plenty of all neceflaries, and contains feve- 
 ral well built mofques and caravanferies. 
 The market-place is well furnifhed with 
 merchandife of different kinds. The com- 
 mon manufactures of Perfia are found 
 here, viz. filk and cotton (luffs, carpets, be- 
 fides fome other articles, which make this 
 a place of confiderable trade. 
 
 This city is much peftered with fcor- 
 pions, efpecially the black kind, reckoned 
 the moft venemous. Their fting proves 
 mortal in a few days, nay, even hours, if 
 proper remedies be not applied. The cure 
 ufed by the Perfians is, to anoint the wound 
 with the oil of thefe animals, extracted by 
 frying. Of this oil they have generally 
 a quantity in referve. If it is wanting, 
 they bruife any fcorpion, and apply it to 
 the part affected. Either of thefe reme- 
 dies, taken in due time, feldom fail of fuc- 
 cefs. The Perfians have fuch a dread of 
 thefe creatures, that, when provoked by a- 
 
 VOL. 1. O ny
 
 106 A JOURNEY 1717. 
 
 ny perfon, they wifh a Kafhan fcorpion 
 may fling him. They are the more ter- 
 rible, as few houfes are free from them ; 
 for moft of the floors being of earth, 
 and covered with carpets or mats, be- 
 low thefe t'he fcorpions find or make holes 
 for themfelves, where they lurk unfeen. 
 They do not, indeed, often hurt, unlefs 
 touched fuddenly. It is advifeable for all 
 travellers to examine diligently the place 
 where they are to deep, before they go 
 . to bed. As the fcorpion is well known, 
 it will be unneceflary to fay any more of 
 it. 
 
 The 5th, we reached Buzabbatt, five a- 
 gatz from Kafhan. The weather was very 
 hot. At this place I faw a creature called 
 the ftellio, or tarantula, and by the Perfians 
 inkureck. It is in fhape and fize fomewhat 
 like a large fpider, but overgrown with 
 hair. I was informed that it neither flings 
 nor bites, but drops its venom upon the 
 {kin, which is of fuch a nature that it im- 
 mediately penetrates into the body, and 
 
 caufes
 
 1717. ,* 5 <J i o r A n A i\. 107 
 
 caufes dreadful fymptoms ; fuch as giddi- 
 nefs of the head, a violent pain in the fto- 
 mach, and a lethargic ftupifaftion. > The 
 remedy, as in the former cafe, is the appli- 
 cation of the fame animal, when bruifed,to 
 the part, by which the poifon is extracted. 
 They alfo make the patient drink abun- 
 dance of fweet milk, after which he 'is put 
 in a kind of tray, fufpended by ropes fixed 
 in the four corners ; it is turned round till 
 the ropes are twifted hard together ; an3, 
 when let go at once, the untwining caufes 
 the bafket to run round, with a quick mo- 
 tion, which forces the patient to vomit. 
 
 They alfo make them dance to mufical 
 inftruments, which the fick perfon fome- 
 times does, of his own accord, till he drops 
 down upon the fpot. One of thefe terrible 
 creatures happened to fall out of the del- 
 ing upon my hand, as I was going one 
 night to bed ; I fhook it off inftantaneouf- 
 ly, without receiving the leaft harm. E- 
 very thing near was moved, and fearched 
 for it, Iput to no purpofe, there being many 
 
 holes
 
 joS A JOURNEY 1717. 
 
 holes in the floor. It may eafily be ima- 
 gined that apprehenfion would prevent my 
 fleeping much that night* 
 
 The 6th, we travelled five or fix agatz 
 to Kaltabbatt ; and the next day five, 
 to Nattanee, a finall town fituated under 
 fome high mountains. Here the Shach 
 has a pretty little palace, with gardens, 
 fountains of fine water, and cafcades. 
 We lodged in the palace. The jackals 
 were fo bold, that they howled un- 
 der the windows all the night long, and 
 carried off fome of our poultry. On the 
 top of a mountain, near this place, ftands 
 a high tower, built by Shach Abbafs, which 
 is feen at a great diftance. 
 
 The 8th, we left Nattanee, and in three 
 hours pafled a fine houfe, with gardens, 
 built by Shach Abbafs, and fituated by it- 
 felf in a pleafant plain. About three hours 
 after, xve came to Tutrin, an old caravan- 
 fery, where we lodged. The heat increafed 
 daily as we advanced to the fouth. The 
 qth, we reached Ruck, eight agatz diflant 
 
 from
 
 ,717. TO ISPAHAN. jog 
 
 from Tutrin, and four hours journey from 
 the city of Ifpahan. 
 
 The loth, being the vernal equinox, 
 when the new year commences among the 
 Perfians, we halted all day. In the even- 
 ing, thirty fine horfes, with rich furniture, 
 were fent from the Shach's ftables to the 
 ambaflador. Some of the bridles were or- 
 namented with gold, others with filver. 
 Two lions were brought by a Perfian to be 
 fhown to the ambaflador. They were led 
 into a court-yard, and let loofe upon a 
 goat ; but, inftead of the goat, they ran at 
 ibme of our people, who narrowly efcaped, 
 by getting into a houfe, and faulting the 
 doors. It feems the fight of fo many ftran- 
 gers had frightened them ; for the keeper 
 himfelf with difficulty chained them, and 
 one of them even bit his hand. 
 
 The nth, we advanced two agatz, to 
 Davilett-abbatt, a village. 
 
 . On the morning of the I3th, the May- 
 mander Bafha, or chief conductor, arrived 
 
 with
 
 tio A JOURNEY 1717. 
 
 with many attendants. In the evening we 
 mounted, and, being accompanied with a> 
 numerous train of courtiers, and other peo- 
 ple, we travelled two agatz to the fuburbs 
 of the city, where we lodged in a palace 
 called Tuchtzy, belonging to the Shach. 
 
 The I4th, in the morning, came a num- 
 ber of horfes fufficient for the ambaflador 
 and all his train ; this being the day ap- 
 pointed for our public entry. 
 
 About noon, the Maymander Bafha re- 
 turned, to conduct the ambaflador to his 
 lodgings in the city. He was Attended by 
 many perfons of diftin&ion. 
 
 After noon, we mounted, and entered 
 the city. We pafled through many ftreets 
 crowded with fpectators, as were alfo the 
 tops of the houfes. It was faid that the 
 Sophy. himfelf was at a window, incognito, 
 with fome of his ladies. Curiofity had cau- 
 fed fuch a crowd, that, had not the way 
 been cleared by the Perfian guards, it 
 would have been impoflible for us to pafs 
 
 along;
 
 1717. .TO ISPAHAN. in 
 
 along. At laft, we reached the end of our 
 journey ; a noble palace, in the middle of 
 the city, with a garden, three courts, and 
 apartments fufficient for the ambaflador and 
 all his retinue. 
 
 The Order of the Entry. 
 
 An officer. 
 
 Three dragroons. 
 
 A kettle-drum. 
 
 Four trumpets. 
 
 Thirty dragoons, three a-breaft, with drawn 
 
 Swords. 
 Six fpare horfes, with fumptuous trappings. 
 
 The fteward. 
 Twelve footmen. 
 
 Two pages. 
 Three footmen. 
 Two interpreters. 
 Two hey-dukes in Hungarian habits. 
 
 The
 
 H2 A JOURNEY 1717. 
 
 The ambaflador, with the maymander, 
 
 Baftia, and interpreter. 
 
 The prieft and one gentleman. 
 
 Myfelf and one gentleman. 
 
 Two clerks. 
 Faulconers, huntfmen, &c. 
 
 CHAP.
 
 I I 
 
 4717. TO ISPAHAN. 113 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 Occurrences during our Stay at If* 
 pahan. 
 
 TH E i5th, the agents of the Englifli 
 and Dutch factories, viz. Mr Coppin 
 the Englifh agent, fent Meflieurs Batfon 
 and Reynardfon, the Dutch agent likewife 
 fent two gentlemen of their company, to 
 falute the ambaflador. 
 
 The i6th, the Maymander Baftia invited 
 the ambaflador to an audience of the Etma- 
 dowlett, or prime minifter, which he would 
 not comply with, till he had an audience 
 of thaShach, and delivered his credentials, 
 though it is ufual firft to take an audience 
 VOL. I. P of
 
 H4 A JOUR.NEY 1717. 
 
 of that minifter. This day I vifited the 
 Englifh factory, where I met with a friend- 
 ly reception. 
 
 On the 27th was a great fall of rain, 
 fuch as had not been at Ifpahan for feven 
 years : It was the caufe of great joy in this 
 iiiltry dry climate, though to me it feemed 
 nothing extraordinary. 
 
 April i ft, 1 went to Julffa to fee a friend, 
 accompanied by Mr Batfon. It is a large 
 place in the fuburbs, inhabited by Arme- 
 nians, who have the free exercife of the 
 Chriftian religion. On the loth, I dined 
 at the Dutch houfe, the weather very hot. 
 
 May 4th, the ceremonial part of the am- 
 bafiador's introduction to the Shach being 
 previoufly agreed on, he was this day to 
 have his firft audience. In the morning 
 horfes were fent from the King's ftables, 
 all of them magnificently equipped, with 
 grooms to attend them ; many jof the fad- 
 dies and bridles were garniflied with gold 
 and filver. 
 
 We
 
 1717- TO ISPAHAN. 115 
 
 "VVe marched in the fame order as at our 
 entry above mentioned, o'nly the dragoons 
 had not their fwordsj drawn. After paffing 
 through feveral ftreets, we came to the 
 great market place, called Bazar, and then 
 to a gate called Alla-capy, i. e. GodVgate, 
 where we difmounted. Acrofs this gate is 
 hung a chain, and none are permitted to 
 enter on horleback except the Shach him- 
 felf. We walked through >the guards, 
 drawn up on each fide, to an inner court, 
 and thence to an arched gate, furrounded 
 with benches, and fpread with carpets. 
 Here the ambaflador was defired to fit 
 down till the Shach was ready to receive 
 him. We waited at leaft two hours, du^ 
 ring which time, all the miniflers of ftate, 
 and officers of the houfehold, pafTed us in 
 great ftate ; after them came a large ele- 
 phant, mounted by his keeper, and adorned 
 with gold and filver fluff ; then two large 
 lions, led by their keepers with chains of 
 mafly gold. 
 
 When
 
 ii<S A JOURNEY 1717. 
 
 When this parade was over, an officer in- 
 formed the ambaflador that the Shach wait- 
 ed for hjm : Whereupon, proceeding imme- 
 diately through the gate, we entered a fpa- 
 cious garden. ' The firft thing that prefent- 
 ed, was a noble view of twenty horfes 
 {landing in a row, richly caparifoned,. ha- 
 ving all their faddles and bridles ornament- 
 ed with gold and filver, and fome of them 
 fet with faphires, emeralds, and other pre- 
 cious ftones, of great value ; the horfes 
 were all tied to a rope fixed to the ground, 
 at the extremities, by a ftake of gold, near 
 which lay a mallet of the fame metal for 
 driving it, according to the cuftom of Per- 
 iia ; the hind-feet were alfo fattened to a 
 rope, to prevent kicking ; this is an excel- 
 lent precaution, for, tho* they were all ftoned 
 horfes, they could neither hurt one another, 
 nor any thing elfe ; the chains that bound 
 their hind- feet, with the flakes, and mallets, 
 were alfo of gold. The Perfian horfes are 
 well managed, neither do I think them fp 
 yicious as thofe in Europe j whether they 
 
 are
 
 1717- T0 ISPAHA^. nj 
 
 are naturally more gentle I fliall not de- 
 termine, perhaps it is intirely owing to the 
 milder treatment of their grooms. At each 
 end or the row ftood a large veflel of gold 
 full of water, for the horfes to drink. 
 
 Approaching nearer to the hall of audi- 
 ence, we pafled the two lions, chained to 
 the ground, one on each fide of the paflage; 
 near them were placed two bafons of gold, 
 filled with water for drink j next to the 
 lions ftood the elephant, with his keeper on. 
 his back. As the ambaflador pafled, both 
 the lions couched, and the elephant bent 
 his fore-knee, at a word pronounced by 
 the keepers. 
 
 We now turned to the left, and had a full 
 view of the hall of audience, about an hun- 
 dred yards diftant. It feemed to ftand by 
 itfelf in the middle of -the garden ; it is 
 indeed contiguous to the feraglio on the 
 fouth, but is quite open to the north. Be- 
 fore the entry is a large fountain of pure 
 water, which fprings upward in three pipes, 
 
 and
 
 lit AJOURNEY 1717. 
 
 and falls into a bafon filled with rofes, jef- 
 famine, and many other fine flowers. 
 
 When we came to the ftair, we were de- 
 fired to put off our flippers, and our fervants 
 were no further admitted. The ambaflador 
 only and fix of his retinue (among whom 
 I was) entered the hall. We afcended by 
 eight fteps of marble, the whole breadth 
 of the hall. From the roof hung a canvafs, 
 which was ftretched out over the ftair, and 
 {haded the whole infide of the edifice. The 
 hall is a fpaciqus fquare building, with a 
 terrace roof; the cieling is very magnifi- 
 cent, being all arched, and fet with mir- 
 rors of different magnitudes till within 
 three feet of the floor, which is quite co- 
 vered with filk carpets, interwoven with 
 branches and foliage of gold and filver. In 
 the middle were two bafons, into which fe- 
 veral pipes, each about eight feet high, 
 fpouted water, which, falling upon rofes 
 and other flowersj has a fine effecl; on 
 a hot day. The farther end of the hall is 
 a femicircle ; here fat the Shach upon a 
 
 fofa,
 
 1717- TO ISPAHAN. 119 
 
 fofa, raifed about a foot from the floor, 
 which was elevated four fteps above the 
 reft of the hall : He was attended by twenty 
 eunuchs ; one carried his fabre, another his 
 bow, a third the quiver with arrows, a 
 fourth the calianne, or tobacco-pipe j fo that 
 each had his office of ftate. 
 
 The ambafTador was received in the hall 
 by the mafter of the ceremonies, called Ifti- 
 aggan Bafha, to be by him introduced to 
 the Shach. He continued fitting upon his 
 fofa, with his legs acrofs, while all his mi- 
 nifters of ftate /lood rh their places, cloth- 
 ed .magnificently in their robes ; which 
 they never wear except on folemn days ; 
 and, when thefe are over, they leave them 
 in a wardrobe at court, appointed for keep- 
 ing them. I muft confefs the appearance 
 was very fplendid, and put me in mind of 
 the accounts left us by the ancients, of the 
 magnificence of the Kings of Perfia. 
 
 At our entry into the hall, we were flop- 
 ped about three minutes at the firft. foun- 
 tain, in order to raife the greater refpedfc ; 
 
 the
 
 120 A jOURNEf 
 
 the pipes were contrived to play fo high, 
 that the water fell into the bafon like a 
 thick rain ; nothing could be difcovered for 
 fome time, and the Shach himfelf appeared 
 as in a fog. While we moved forward, e- 
 very thing was as ftill as death ; the ma- 
 fter of the ceremonies took the arnbaflador 
 by the arm, and conducted him within fix 
 yards of the throne, who offering to ad- 
 vance, in order to deliver his credentials, 
 was prevented by the Etmadowlett, or prime 
 minifter ; this minifter received the creden- 
 tials, and laid them before the Shach, who 
 touched them with his hand, as a mark of 
 refpect. This part of the ceremony had 
 been very difficult to adjuft ; for the am- 
 baflador infifled on delivering his letters 
 into the Shach's own hands ; the Perfian 
 minifters, on the other hand, affirmed, 
 that their Kings never received letters di- 
 rectly from the ambafladors of the greateft 
 Emperors on earth. 
 
 The ambafTador now made a mort fpeech, 
 which the Sophy anfwered, through the 
 
 Etma-
 
 1717. TO ISPAHAN. rit 
 
 Etmadowlctt, in very obliging terms. He 
 then inquired after his Czarilh Majefty's 
 health, and afked feveral queftions about 
 the Swedifh war, and whether the ambaf- 
 fadpr had fuffered any hardships on the 
 road during fo long' a journey ? To all 
 which he returned anfwers fuitable to the 
 occafion. At laft he was defired to take his 
 feat, to which he was led by the matter of 
 the ceremonies : It was about a foot highj 
 and placed at the diftance of ten yards from 
 the King. A little behind the ambaflador 
 were placed his attendants, on feats nearly 
 of the fame height. During all this cere- 
 mony, mufic played, confiding of a variety 
 of inftruments, which are not unhannoni- 
 ous, and the mufti, or high prieft, readj 
 without intermiflion, chapters of the Koran. 
 
 Before the ambaflador was feated, the 
 prefents from his Czarifli Majefty to the 
 Sophy, carried by fifty men, were brought 
 to the entry, and received by ttye proper 
 officers : They confifted of fables, and other- 
 valuable furs, falcons, a variety of fine tea-j 
 
 VOL. I. mufiea!
 
 122 A JOURNEY 1717; 
 
 mufical docks, gold watches fet in dia- 
 monds, &c. 
 
 As foon as the ambafTador had taken his 
 feat, all the minifters of ftate fat down on 
 their hams, on both fides of the hall, in 
 TOWS ; for none are allowed to fit crofs 
 legged in prefence of the Sophy. 
 
 There was now placed before the com- 
 pany little tables, on which were fet all 
 kinds of fweat-meats and confections j and 
 before the ambaffador was laid a golden 
 calianne, or tobacco-pipe, which the Per- 
 fians reckon an high inftance of refpecl:. 
 
 The mufic continued playing, and the 
 mufti ftill continued reading ; but every 
 thing elfe was very filent. Several meflages 
 pafled between the King and the ambaffa- 
 dor, by means of the mafter of the ceremo- 
 nies, and our interpreter. The King fpoke 
 the Perfian language, and the ambaflador 
 the Ruffian, while the other two ufed the 
 Turkifh. 
 
 In the mean time, fome pure water, with 
 a bit of ice in it, was brought in golden ba- 
 
 font
 
 TO ISPAHAN. 123 
 
 fons to drink. About an hour after, vic- 
 tuals were brought by a number of fer- 
 vants, who carried them on their heads, in 
 large fquare bafkets. Firft the Shach was 
 ferved, and next the ambaffador with his 
 retinue ; then all the officers of ftate that 
 fat in the hall. The grand fteward of the 
 houfehold waited on the King, and his af- 
 fiftants on the reft of the company, accord- 
 ing to their different ranks. At the fame 
 time our fervants were entertained in the 
 garden. 
 
 The entertainment confifted moftly of 
 different kinds of rice boiled with butter, 
 fowls, mutton, boiled and roafted lamb. 
 The whole was ferved in large gold or 
 china dimes, and placed in the bafkets, 
 which flood on a long cloth fpread above 
 the carpet. The diihes were interfperfed 
 with faucers filled with aromatic herbs, 
 fugar, and vinegar. But, according to the 
 cuftom of the country, we had neither 
 napkins, fpoons, knives, nor forks; for 
 the onach himfelf eat with his fingers, and 
 
 every
 
 124 A JOURNEY 1717. 
 
 every one followed his example. There 
 were indeed,, befides the common bread, 
 feme very large thin cakes, which we uled 
 infterid of napkins, to wipe our fingers. 
 They are made of wheat-flour ; the Per- 
 fians fometimes eat them ; they are not 
 difagreeable. Our drink was fherbet, and 
 water cooled with ice. Formerly it was 
 ufual, on fuch occafions, to drink wine, 
 and have xvomen to dance and fing. But 
 the prefent Sophy, being a fober and de- 
 vout prince, thought it proper to abolifh a 
 cuftom productive of fo many indecencies, 
 and directly contrary to the rules of the 
 Koran. We had therefore only men to 
 fmg, and no dancing. 
 
 The ambaffador, and all the gentlemen 
 who were admitted into the hall, continued 
 with their heads covered during all the 
 time of the audience. They only, on en- 
 tering the royal prefence, uncovered once, 
 and bowed to his majefty. 
 
 When the entertainment was over, the 
 ambaflador took his. leave, and returned to 
 
 his
 
 I 7 ij. TO ISPAHAR 12} 
 
 his lodgings, conducted' by the Mayman- 
 der Bafha, in the fame manner as .in the 
 morning. The ftreets were lined with the 
 Sophy's guards to prevent any inconveni- 
 ence from the vaft crowds of people. 
 
 The fame evening the Shach lent a pre- 
 fent to the ambaflador of the golden cali- 
 anne he had ufed at court ; it was neatly 
 wrought in filigree, and valued at- forty or 
 fifty pounds Sterling ; alio twenty large 
 difhes of folid gold, filled with variety of 
 fweet-meats. Thofe^ who brought them 
 returned immediately, leaving the plate ; 
 which remained at the ambafladbr's lodg- 
 ings above fix weeks. All this time it was 
 uncertain whether fuch a valuable treafure 
 was forgot, or intended as a prefent. The 
 dimes however were at laft demanded, and 
 delivered. They weighed about thirty 
 "pounds a-piece, but were of mean work- 
 manfhip, being all beat out with a hammer. 
 From this, and many fimilar inftaticesj 
 fome conception may be formed of the 
 
 iminenie
 
 126 A JOURNEY 1717, 
 
 immenfe riches whereof the Sophy is pof- 
 feffed. 
 
 The Shach's name is HufTein ; he is a- 
 bout thirty years of age, of a middle fta- 
 ture, open countenance, and has a fhort 
 black beard. It is faid his legs are remark- 
 ably fhort, in proportion to his body. He 
 is very good natured, and of a beneficent 
 difpofition. He has ieveral children by 
 different ladies. Tachmaz the oldeft, at 
 prefent in his minority, feldom appears out 
 of the Haram. Hufleia himfelf, though a 
 prince adorned with many virtues, yet be- 
 ing educated in the Haram among the wo- 
 men, is little acquainted with the world, 
 and leaves the management of the empire 
 wholly to his minifters : In them he places 
 an entire confidence ; and they, in their 
 turn, perfuade him that it is below his dig- 
 nity to attend to any public affairs what 
 ever. At this very time there was a formi- 
 dable rebellion begun at Chandahar, a 
 ftrong town on the borders of India, by 
 Mery-Mahmut, an enterprifing and pow- 
 erful
 
 1717- TO ISPAHAN. 127 
 
 erful chief, who took advantage of the 
 weaknefs of the present adminiftration. 
 
 The Perfian miniftry neglected and def- 
 pifed thefe rebels, threatening, in their ftile, 
 to fend fome troops to cut them all to pie- 
 ces. Time hath fhown the vanity of thefe 
 high words. I muft obferve that they 
 wanted neither men nor money ; but their 
 foldiers were undifciplined, and, above all, 
 they had no officers of fufficient abilities to 
 command them. 
 
 The gth of May, the ambaflador had his 
 firft audience of the Etmadowlett. We 
 were conducted in the fame manner as 
 when we went to court. The entertain- 
 ment was likewife of the fame kind, but 
 much more magnificent. The palace was 
 grand, and had a fine garden adjoining. 
 The Etmadowlett, whofe name is Phataly- 
 chan, was by birch a Georgian, of Chriftian 
 parents, but educated in the feraglio. He 
 is a tall well-lhaped man, of a friendly af- 
 pec~t, and a great favourite of the Sophy. 
 After we returned home, the Etmadowlett 
 
 fent
 
 128 A JOURNEY 
 
 fent the ambaflador a prefent of a fine 
 horfe, with a faddle and bridle, richly 
 mounted, after the Perfian fafhion, and a 
 gold calianne, little inferior to that given 
 by the Shach v It was reported that no fo- 
 reign ambafiador had ever been treated 
 with fo much refpect. 
 
 The nth, the ambaflador had a fecond 
 audience of the Sophy, at the fame palace 
 as formerly, called Tavalea Telear, i. e. the 
 palace near the ftables ; it was very fhort, 
 and no entertainment was given. Next 
 day he received from the Shach a prefent 
 of fame excellent Sherras wine, and a old 
 
 > o 
 
 bottle, that contained about two quarts, 
 with a fmall cup of the fame metal. 
 
 On the ijth, the ambaflador had a fe- 
 cond audience of the Etmadowlett, relating 
 to the fubjedt of the embafly. 
 
 Three days after, the Hackim Bafha, or 
 chief phyfician, fent me an invitation to 
 vifit him. He received me in a very cour- 
 teous obliging manner. ; and detained me 
 above two hours, talking on different fub-
 
 1717. TO ISPAHAN. 729 
 
 jefts. He told me, that the phyficians irf 
 Perfia made vegetables, and their virtues, 
 their chief ftudy ; they dealt but little iqt 
 minerals and chemical preparations. Then 
 he afked me whether the European phyfi- 
 cians admitted opium in their prefcriptions ? 
 I told him they did with great fuccefs. To 
 which he replied, that the qualities of that 
 drug were known to very few. He in- 
 quired whence tea came ? how it fhould 
 be made ? and what were its virtues ? All 
 which I anfwered to his fatisfadtion. Hence 
 it is evident that the Perfians have no cor- 
 refpondence nor commerce with the Chi- 
 xufe. The phyfician is an elderly man, of 
 a grave deportment, and might pafs for a 
 doctor any where. On taking my leave, 
 he told me he was forry he could not con- 
 verfe with me but by means of an inter- 
 preter, which was tedious and difagree- 
 able. 
 
 The fame day the Dutch commiffary, 
 Myn-heer Vonkettler, made his public en- 
 try at Ifpahan, as envoy from the gover- 
 
 VOL. I. R nouf
 
 AJOURNEY 1717. 
 
 nour of Batavia to the Shach of Perfia. He 
 was preceded by fix elephants, fent as a 
 prefent to the King by the governour. He 
 had a numerous retinue, and was attended 
 by feveral gentlemen, and made as grand 
 an appearance as if he had been a minifter 
 from any court of Europe. He took up 
 his lodgings at the Dutch fadtory. Mr 
 Kettler told me, that he was born in Cour- 
 land ; that, in his youth, he inlifted as a 
 foldier in the fervice of the Dutch Eaft-In- 
 dia company ; by his uncommon abilities 
 he had raifed himfelf from that low fitua- 
 tion to the honourable place he now 
 held. 
 
 The following day Mr Kettler fent two 
 of his retinue to compliment our ambafla- 
 dor : And, both our gentlemen being in* 
 difpofed, I was fent next day to return the 
 compliment. 
 
 The 28th, I dined at the Dutch houfe, 
 where we had a grand entertainment. 
 
 June 2d, the ambaflador intended to go 
 a hunting, and to take a view of the coun- 
 try
 
 1717. TO ISPAHAN. 131 
 
 try about Ifpahan. But an officer came 
 from court, defiring him to delay it till an- 
 other opportunity ; for the Shach had 
 pitched on that day to vifit a country- 
 houfe, in company with his ladies ; on 
 which occafions it is death for any one to 
 be feen near the place where the court paf- 
 fes. To prevent accidental tranfgreflions 
 in this refpect, a cryer is previoufly def- 
 patched to warn the inhabitants, who pro- 
 claims through the ftreets, and along the 
 road, that nobody, under pain of death, 
 {hall appear either in the way, or from any 
 houfe near it, by which his majefty and 
 the ladies are to march. The Shach rides 
 on horfeback, attended only by eunuchs. 
 The ladies are mounted aftride, fome on 
 horfes, others on mules and afles. They 
 are all veiled with white muflin, fo that 
 nothing can be feen of them but the eyes 
 and nofe. 
 
 The Perfians tell a pleafant ftory of 
 Shach Abbafs's behaviour on an occafion 
 of this nature. The Shach at a certain 
 
 time
 
 132 AJOURNEY 1717. 
 
 time was riding along, attended by his con- 
 cubines, when he happened to meet a poor 
 country-fellow upon the road, He was 
 immediately brought before the King, and, 
 expecting inftant death, fell on his knees, 
 molt fubnvflivdy begging pardon for fo 
 heinous an offence, and pleaded ignorance 
 in his excufe, having neither feen nor heard 
 of any cryer. The prince was pleafed with 
 the fimplicity and innocence of the pea- 
 fant, ordered him to take courage, and all 
 the ladies to unveil ; then defired him to 
 N pick out any of his concubines he liked 
 beft, and he ftiould have her for a wife. 
 This treatment difpelled his fear ; he pitch- 
 ed on one that pleafed him moft. The 
 Shach approved fo much of his tafte that he 
 carried him to court, where he foon became 
 a great favourite. 
 
 The Qth, I dmed at the Englim factory, 
 \vhere Mr Coppin, and the other gentle- 
 men belonging to the company, received 
 me in the moft friendly manner. The day 
 was very hot, and in the evening we fup- 
 
 ped
 
 ! 7 i 7 . TO ISPAHAN. 133 
 
 ped near a fountain in the garden. On a 
 fudden we felt a guft of wind, as hot as if 
 it had come from the mouth of an oven. 
 It was foon over without any bad effect. 
 But I was informed that thefe hot winds 
 are very dangerous, in travelling over the 
 deferts, and often kill people immediately. 
 The only refource, on perceiving them co- 
 ming, is to fall down flat, with the face to 
 the ground, and continue in that pofture 
 till they are gone. 
 
 % 
 
 On the 1 2th, the ambaflador had a third 
 audience of the Shach at Farrabbatt, a coun- 
 try- houfe near the city. It is an extremely 
 pleafant place, adorned with gardens, foun- 
 tains, and cafcades, furrounded with parks 
 for all kinds of game. While we were at 
 fupper on the terrace, we had a fqual of 
 wind, which almoft carried away every 
 thing, and actually fwept off the thin broad 
 cakes, which the Perfians ufe inftead of 
 napkins. 
 
 The 1 6th, Monfieur Ricard, whom I 
 mentioned at Tauris, and twelve mifliona- 
 
 ries
 
 134 A JOURNEY , 7 , 7 . 
 
 ries of different orders, were invited to dine 
 with the atnbaflador. Several of thefe 
 gentlemen had been long in India and E- 
 thiopia, which rendered their converfation 
 very entertaining. 
 
 The 2 1 ft, the ambafTador was invited to 
 dinner by the devettar, or keeper of the 
 great feal and ftandifh. Here, as in all o- 
 ther countries, this is an office of great 
 truft. We were entertained with more 
 magnificence than by the prime minifter, 
 or even at court. Soon after we entered, 
 there were ferved up a great variety of 
 fweet-meats, and all kinds of fruit that the 
 climate afforded. Coffee and flierbet were 
 carried about by turns. We were placed 
 crofs-legged on the carpets, except the am- 
 baffador, who had a feat. During this part 
 of the feaft we were entertained with vo- 
 cal and inftrumental mufic, dancing boys, 
 tumblers, puppets, andjuglers: All the 
 performers executed their parts with great 
 dexterity. Two of them counterfeit- 
 ing a .quarrel, one beat off the other's 
 
 turban
 
 I 7 i 7 . TO ISPAHAN. 
 
 turban with his foot, out of which dropped 
 about fifteen or twenty large ferpents, which 
 run or crawled about the room. One of 
 them came towards me, with great fpeed, 
 which foon obliged me to quit my place. 
 On feeing us alarmed, they told us the crea- 
 tures were altogether inofFenfitre, as their 
 teeth had been all drawn out. The fellow 
 went about the room and gathered them a- 
 gain into his turban, like fo many eels. 
 The victuals were now ferved in a neat 
 and elegant manner. Every thing was 
 well drefled in the Pcrfian famion. Our 
 hoft was very cheerful, and contributed e- 
 very thing in his power to pleafe his guefts. 
 He excufed himfelf handfomely enough for 
 not having wine, as it was not then ufed 
 at court. 
 
 On the 23d, the Maymander Bafha 
 brought a meflage from the Shach to the 
 ambaflador, intimating, that the bufmefs of 
 his embafly being now finimed, he might 
 choofe his own time to depart. This was 
 not very agreeable news to the ambarTador, 
 
 who
 
 136 AJOURNEY 1717. 
 
 who alledged, that, before he could pro- 
 cure (hipping, to tranfport him to Aftra- 
 chan, the feafon would be far advanced, 
 and oblige him to winter in fome part of 
 Perfia. 
 
 July i ft, the Shach fent the ambaflador, 
 and the principal parts of his retinue, what 
 the Perfia^s call the kalatt. It confifts of 
 a tunic, a long rob of gold and filver fluff, 
 a fafh and 'urban, and fome pieces of Per- 
 fian filk, whereof about ten or a dozen fell 
 to my fh^re. The whole value was not 
 considerable j \. at the Shach beftows this 
 mark of favour to all foreign minifters who 
 come on friendly errands. On this occa- 
 fion he fent the ambaflador, in particular, a 
 p**efenr of two fine horfes from his own 
 ftables. . 
 
 1 e 3d, the ambaflador had his laft au- 
 dience of the 3hach, at a palace in the ci- 
 ty ; when he received an anfwer to the 
 Czar's letter, and immediately took leave 
 ftanding, wuaout further ceremony. 
 
 The
 
 1717- TO ISPAHAN. 137 
 
 The 8th, the Shach fent the ambafTador 
 another prefent, confiding of an elephant, 
 two lions, two leopards, fix monkeys of 
 different kinds, three parrots, two white and 
 one green, three fine horfes, and an Indian 
 bird, called myana ; it is in colour, lhape, 
 and fize, like a black-bird, and whittled a 
 very fine note. 
 
 Auguft the 3d, we began to prepare for 
 our journey homeward, which took up 
 much time. The i8th, we removed from, 
 our lodgings in the city to a houfe belong- 
 ing to the Shach, in the northern fuburbs, 
 called Tauchtzy. 
 
 The 26th, I took leave of my friend Mr 
 Coppin, who fet out this day on his jour- 
 ney to England,, by way of Aleppo. The 
 Englifh factory at Ifpahan are very well 
 fituated in the middle of the city, have a 
 fpacious 'garden adjoining, and are feparated 
 from the reft of the town by a wall. Moft 
 of the great houfes in the city are furroun- 
 ded in the fame manner, which renders' it 
 very extenfive. 
 
 VOL. I. S Ifpahan
 
 138 A JOURNEY 1717* 
 
 Ifpahan is fituated nearly in thirty-two 
 degrees north latitude, on a fruitful plain, 
 in the province of Hierack, anciently the 
 kingdom of the Parthians- " About three 
 or four Englifh miles diftant from the 
 city, to the fouth, runs an high ridge of 
 mountains from eaft to weft. Shach Ab- 
 bafs the Great transferred the feat of the 
 Perfian government from Cafbin to this 
 place. 
 
 Ifpahan is plentifully fupplied with wa- 
 ter from the river Schenderoo, which runs 
 between the city and the fuburbs, keeping 
 its courfe to the north. It rifes near the 
 city, and is fordable almoft every where, 
 unlefs during great rains, which feldom 
 happen. After paffing this place, its courfe 
 is but fhort, for it foon lofes itfelf.in dry 
 parched plains. Over the Schenderoo there 
 are three ftately ftone-bridges in fight of 
 one another; but the one in the middle, 
 betwixt the city and that part of the fub- 
 urbs called Julpha, which terminates the 
 fpacious ftreet Tzar-bach, far exceeds any 
 
 ftrudure
 
 1717- TO ISPAHAN. 139 
 
 ftru&ure of that kind I ever faw. It is 
 broad enough for two carriages and a horfe- 
 man to pafs a-breaft, and has galleries on 
 each fide, which are covered, for the con- 
 venience of people on foot ; and watchmen 
 are ftationed at each end, to prevent difor- 
 ders. There are few houfes in the town 
 which have .not their chaufes, i. e. cifterns 
 of water, conveyed in pipes from the ri- 
 ver : A moft falutary and refrefhing cir- 
 cumftance, in fuch a dry and fultry cli- 
 mate. 
 
 The city is populous, jrfid,,as 1 already 
 obferved, very extenfive. As moft of the 
 inhabitants have their houfes apart, fur- 
 rounded with gardens, planted with fruit 
 and other trees, at a diftance it appears like 
 a city in a for eft, and affords a very agree- 
 able profpeft. 
 
 The ftreets are generally very narrow 
 and irregular, except that leading to the 
 great bridge, already mentioned. This 
 noble ftreet is very broad and ftraight, and 
 near an Engliih mile in length. On each 
 
 fide
 
 A JOURNEY r 7 i 7 ; 
 
 fide are the King's palaces, courts of juftice, 
 
 and the academies for the education of 
 
 
 
 youth, with two rows of tall chinar trees, 
 which afford a fine fhade. Thefe trees 
 have a fmooth whitifh bark, and a broad 
 leaf, like the plane-tree. At certain diftan- 
 ces, there are fountains of water that .play 
 continually, round which are fpread car- 
 pets ; and thither the Periians refort to 
 drink coffee, fmoke tobacco, and hear 
 news ; which, I muft confefs, is very a- 
 greeable in hot weather. 
 
 About half a mile below the city is a fine 
 plain upon the banks of the river, where 
 the Perfians, every evening, exercife their 
 horfes in riding, and accuftom them to the 
 difcharge of fire-arms. They alfo fhoot at 
 butts with bows and arrows, and throw 
 blunted darts at one another ; at which 
 they appear very dextrous. 
 
 The city is almoft quite defencelefs, ha- 
 ving only a flight wall round it, built of 
 mud dried by the fun, which is broken down 
 in many places ; fo that, if the army is de- 
 feated
 
 t 7 i 7 . TO ISP-AHAtf. 
 
 feated in the field, Ifpahan cannot defend 
 itfelf one day ; for even all the artillery I 
 faw, confided of about twenty brafs can- 
 non, which ftood in the grand court before 
 the palace-gate, and were more for parade 
 than real ufe. 
 
 ' The houfes here, as in other places of 
 Perfia, are generally built with bricks har- 
 dened by the fun. The roofs are flat, and 
 covered with a terrace. They make but 
 a mean appearance from the ftreet, though 
 within they are neat and clean, and very 
 convenient for the Perfian manner of life. 
 The Shach's palaces, the public edifices, and 
 the houfes of all perfons of diftinction, are 
 built with ftone. 
 
 As the ftreets are not paved, when it is 
 windy, the city is fometimes involved in 
 fuch a cloud of duft, that the fun is fcarcely 
 vifible. This obliges the inhabitants to 
 water the ftreets at leaft every evening. 
 Thefe gufts of wind are very difagreeable ; 
 but they happen feldom, and are of fhort 
 .duration. 
 
 At
 
 j 4 2 A JOURNEY i 7 i 7 ; 
 
 i 
 
 At Ifpahan are many manufactories of 
 filk and cotton, and a great many filk 
 worms in the neighbourhood. As the con- 
 fumption of filk is very confiderable at this 
 place, little of it is exported. The making 
 carpets, however, employs the greateft 
 number of .hands ; for which the demand 
 is great, as they are preferable in quality, 
 defign, and colour, to any made elfewhere. 
 
 The fields about the city are very fer- 
 tile, and produce plentiful crops of excel- 
 lent wheat and barley ; but then they muft 
 all be watered, on account of the drynefs 
 of the foil, which is a work of labour and 
 expence. Befides thefe, I faw no other 
 
 . 
 
 gram. 
 
 The Perfians tread out their corn with 
 oxen or afles. For this purpofe, they make 
 a circle, about twenty or thirty feet in dia- 
 meter, on the circumference whereof the 
 {heaves are laid. There is a light fledge or 
 hurdle drawn by the cattle, in which the 
 driver fits, and directs them round and 
 round, as often as is neceflary ; and new 
 
 {heaves
 
 17I 7. T.O ISPAHAN. 143 
 
 {heaves are always added when the former 
 ones are trodden fufficiently.< This opera- 
 tion alfo foftens the ftraw, and renders it 
 very good provender. There is no hay in 
 Perfia ; and the beft horfes are kpt in a 
 condition for any fervice by this food, and 
 a fmali quantity of dried barley twice a 
 day. 
 
 They have flocks of large fheep, whereof 
 the mutton is very good, but the^wool 
 coarfe. In the province of Karamenia, in- 
 deed, they have exceeding fine wool, fome 
 of which I -have feen little inferior to filk. 
 Their horned cattle are buffalos, which af- 
 ford them milk, and are ufed in plowing 
 the ground, and drawing carriages. They 
 have alfo the common kind of cattle of dif- 
 ferent fizes. Tfye better fort of people eat 
 chiefly mutton and fowls, but very little 
 beef. 
 
 Befides the cattle I have mentioned, there 
 is another kind, having a high riling upon 
 the (houlder, with clean limbs, which are 
 very handfome. 
 
 As
 
 344 A JOURNEY 
 
 As I have formerly obferved, that the 
 Perfians make life of ice to cool their wa- 
 ter in fummer, it may be afked, where are 
 got fuch quantities, in fo hot a climate, as 
 are daily fold in the ftreets for that pur- 
 pofe ? I was informed, that there were 
 people who made it their bufmefs to watch 
 the frofty nights, in the winter feafon ; on 
 which occafions they went to the moun- 
 tains near the city, and threw water on 
 certain places, which being frozen, they 
 continued to repeat the operation till the 
 ice was of convenient thicknefs; then they 
 cut it in pieces, and carry it into caves, hewn 
 in the rocks, where it is preferved during 
 the fummer. What they cannot carry off 
 before the fun rifes is covered, to defend it 
 from his heat. 
 
 While I remained at Ifpahan, I vifited 
 the Shach's aviary. It contains a great va- 
 riety of all kinds of birds, many of which 
 had come from India, and other foreign 
 parts. Among the reft were a couple of 
 turkeys, which it feems are rare birds in 
 
 Perfia.
 
 1717- TO ISPAHAN. ,145 
 
 Perfia. The place is very neat and ele- 
 gant. The aviary is about fifteen feet 
 high, and covered with a net-work of 
 brafs-wire, to prevent the birds flying a- 
 way. 
 
 Provifions of all kinds are very dear at 
 Ifpahan, which is fufficiently apparent from 
 the number of poor that go about the 
 ftreets. Nothing, however, is fo extrava- 
 gantly high as fire- wood. 
 
 The Roman catholics have three con- 
 vents in the city, viz. thofe of the Carme- 
 lites, Capuchins, and Auguftins. The Je- 
 fuits and Dominicans have their feparate 
 convents in the fuburbs of Julpha, which 
 is inhabited by Armenians, who are al- 
 lowed the free exercife of their religion. 
 
 There is a confiderable number of Jews 
 in the city, who are either merchants or 
 mechanics. 
 
 In the neighbourhood of the city is a 
 
 tribe of people, called by the Perfians 
 
 Giaur, who worfhip fire, being the pofte- 
 
 rity of the ancient inhabitants of this coun- 
 
 VOL. I. T try,
 
 146 A JOURNEY 1717. 
 
 try, who paid divine honours to that ele- 
 ment. They are a poor indolent race, and 
 live in nafty huts, or in tents. They fpeak 
 a different language from the Peifians ; 
 have black hair, and are of a fwarthy cotn- 
 plection. They have fome fheep and cattle ; 
 but many of thesn go about the ftreets beg- 
 
 About three or four miles to the fouthr 
 ward of the city, are to be feen the ruins of 
 a tower on the top of a mountain, where it 
 is faid Darius fat when Alexander the Great 
 fought the fecond battle with the Perfians. 
 I was alfo told, that, about two days jour- 
 ney from Ifpahan, arc diftinguifhable the 
 remains of the tomb of Queen Efther, a 
 lady celebrated in holy writ for many vir- 
 . Thefe, and many other places, 1 in- 
 tended to have examined on the ipot, but 
 was unluckily prevented, for want of 
 time. 
 
 While we lay at Tauchfzy, waiting for 
 hq:"fes and camels, two of our fervaius 
 were ftung with fcorpions ; but were foon 
 
 cured,
 
 iyiy. TO ISPAHAN. 147 
 
 cured, by timely application of the oil of 
 fcorpions, prepared after the Perfian man- 
 ner, without any other remedy. The jack- 
 als made a difmal howling under our win- 
 dows every night. 
 
 I have now finimed my obfervations on 
 whatever feemed moft remarkable in and 
 about the city of Ifpahan. I mall only add, 
 that, among the many lofty and pompous 
 titles which this mighty monarch aflumes, 
 there are fome very extraordinary ; of 
 which 1 fhall mention one, ' That the 
 
 * greateft kings of the earth may think it 
 
 * an honour to drink out of his horfes 
 
 * footfteps.' Several more inftances might 
 be given, in the Oriental ftile, fully as ex- 
 travagant. 
 
 The Shach's Palaces. 
 
 1. Tzel Sootun, or that of forty pillars; 
 
 2. Tevela Telear, near the ftables. 
 
 S.Hafta-
 
 I 4 8 A JOURNEY 1717, 
 
 3. Hafta*Behafi, chambers of paradife. 
 
 4. Othiat Tallard, near the Haram. 
 
 5. Guldefta, houfe of eunuchs. 
 
 6. Tauchtzy, at the north entry. 
 
 7. Farrabbatt, fouth-eaft from the city. 
 
 Perfia is at prefent divided into fixteen 
 provinces, many of them of great extent. 
 I fliall mention their prefent names, and, 
 under them, thpfe they feem to have borne 
 among the ancients* 
 
 1. Turkomania, 
 Great Armenia. 
 
 2. Diatbeck. 
 Mefopatamia. 
 
 3. Kurdiftan, 
 Part of Aflyria. 
 
 4. Hierack Arabee, 
 Chaldea, or Babylon. 
 
 5. Hierack Aggemy, 
 Region of the Parthians. 
 
 6. Shirvan,
 
 I7 i 7 . TO ISPAHAN. 149 
 
 6. Shirvan, 
 
 Towards the north-weft coaft of the 
 Cafpian Sea. 
 
 7. Guilan and Mefanderan, 
 Hyrcania. 
 
 8. Aftrabatt, 
 Margiana. 
 
 9. Ufbeck, 
 Badria. 
 
 10. Koraflan, 
 
 Aria. 
 ii. Sableftan, 
 
 Parapomifia. 
 12. Sigiftan, 
 
 Drangiana. 
 13., Arachofia. 
 
 14. Machran. 
 
 15. Karamenia, 
 
 Reaching to the gulph of Ormus. ' 
 
 1 6. Pharfiftan, 
 
 Old Perfia, whereof Perfepolis was 
 the capital city.
 
 A JOURNEY 
 
 I have added the ancient names accor- 
 ding to the beft information I could pro- 
 cure ; for, under the various revolutions 
 of this country, the records have been al- 
 xnoft wholly either loft or deftroyed : So 
 that the Perfians themfelves know very 
 little of the ancient hiftory of their coun- 
 try.
 
 1717- T'O ISPAHAN. 151 
 
 From Ifpahan to Shamachy ; oc- 
 currences during ourjlay there. 
 
 SEPTEMBER ift, having procured 
 horfes and camels, and every thing 
 neceflary, and having alfo got a conductor 
 from the Shach, we this day left Ifpahan 
 in order to return to Ruffia. We travelled 
 fhort ftages along the fame road by which 
 we came to Ifpahan. Little material hap- 
 pened for a confiderable time, and I fhall 
 not repeat what I formerly obferved ; I 
 fhall only take notice, that many of the 
 places through which we pafled were much 
 infefled by ftrong gangs of highway-men. 
 
 We
 
 15* A JOURNEY 1717. 
 
 We were therefore obliged to travel very 
 cautioufly, and to keep our people toge- 
 ther near the baggage, but particularly to 
 procure a fafe caravanfery for our lodgings. 
 The weather continuing very hot, was the 
 reafon of our making eafy marches ; and 
 thefe chiefly in the mornings and evenings, 
 and fometimes in the night, when it could 
 be done with fafety. 
 
 We travelled in this manner till the 26th 
 of September, when we arrived at a village 
 called Arrazant, where we lodged. Next 
 iday, inftead of puriuing the fame route by 
 Tauris, we turned to the right, and took 
 the road leading to Cafbin and Guilan. 
 
 The syth, we proceeded five agatz to 
 Membereck ; and the 2%th four, to the 
 city of Oafbin. This place is fituated in a 
 fpacibus plain, having a ridge of high 
 mountains to the north. I mentioned for- 
 merly, that Cafbin was once the feat of 
 government, and the refldence of the Per- 
 fian monarchs. There are ftill to be feen 
 the ruins of many (lately mofques, palaces, 
 
 and
 
 1717- TO ISPAHAN. 153 
 
 and other public edifices. The city appears 
 to have been, in former times, very large 
 and flouriming, but is now much contract- 
 ed and decayed. 
 
 The plague raged here all the preceding 
 fummer, which had almoft depopulated the 
 place : And, although the fury of that 
 contagious diftemper was much abated, 
 people continued to die daily, which made 
 us refolved to remain no longer than was 
 abfolutely neceffary,. in order to prepare 
 things for our journey to Guilan. This 
 could not be foon accomplifhed at a time 
 of fuch public calamity. 
 
 In the mean time, many of our people 
 were feized with peftilential fevers, who 
 all recovered but one. He died fuddenly, 
 with the ufual fymptoms of the plague. I 
 and feveral of our people were likewife ta- 
 ken with fevers, occafioned by our being 
 lodged in houfes where the Perfians had 
 lately died. Thefe circumftances made 
 the ambaflador refolve to leave the place 
 at all events. During the time therefore 
 
 VOL. I. U which
 
 S54 A JOURNEY 1717. 
 
 which we were obliged to wait for horfes 
 and camels, we removed out of town about 
 a mile, to a garden belonging to the Shach, 
 provided for us by the commandant of the 
 city and province. Here we fet up our 
 tents ; and in this fituation, by the help of 
 free air and good water, our people reco- 
 vered furprifingly ; fo that, in a {hort time, 
 moft of them were able to ride, another 
 gentleman only and myfelf were carried in 
 litters between two mules. 
 
 The 1 2th of October we fet out again, 
 purfuing our journey northward. After 
 travelling about two leagues through a 
 plain, we afcendedan high and fteep moun- 
 tain, and, proceeding onward about a 
 league, came to a fmall village where we 
 lodged. All the inhabitants had forfakea 
 their houfes. Whatever elfe was wanting, 
 we had here the comfort of pure air, 
 which had fuch an effect on me that next 
 day I was able to mount on horfeback^ 
 though, at fetting out, I was fcarcely in 
 
 condition
 
 1717. TO ISPAHAN. 
 
 condition to bear the eafy motion of the lit- 
 ter. 
 
 We continued our journey, afcending 
 and defcending many fteep rocks and 
 mountains for four days, when we arrived 
 at Menzyly, a little town fituated in a 
 charming valley ; where grow abundance 
 of citrons, oranges, olives, befide grapes and 
 other fruits. Thefe I own were tempting 
 objects ; but fad experience taught many 
 of us to value them no more than floes or 
 bramble berries. Menzyly is governed by 
 a kalentar or judge ; it is a pretty romantic 
 place, encompafled by high mountains on 
 all fides, which decline to the north, and 
 are covered with grafs. This is a rare fight 
 in Perfia, and is caufed by the great au- 
 tumnal rains ; for along the fouth coaft of 
 the Gafpian Sea, it rains at this feafon, al~ 
 moft without intermiffion, for the fpace of 
 fix weeks or two months. In this and the 
 neighbouring villages are bred a great 
 number of filk-worms, which produce the 
 beft and greateft quantities of raw filk
 
 156 AJOURNEY 1717. 
 
 made in the province of Guilan ; from 
 whence it is exported by the Armenian 
 merchants, partly through Ruflia to Hol- 
 land, and partly by land to Aleppo, for the 
 Levant trade. 
 
 Having ftaid two days at Menzyly, we 
 fet out again in heavy rains, through deep 
 roads, which greatly incommoded our ca- 
 mels ; for they often flipped, and fome- 
 times fell down under their burthens : 
 However, in five days we reached Remd, 
 the capital of the province of Guilan. 
 
 Remd ftands in a plain, furrounded with 
 great woods on every fide, about a day's 
 journey from the neareft fhore of the Caf- 
 pian Sea, where is a very good harbour for 
 fhips of fmall burthen. 
 
 The houfes are thinly fcattered, refem- 
 bling rather a large village than a town. 
 As the ground at this place is very flat, the 
 inhabitants are obliged to chufe the dryeft 
 places to build on. In the market place, I 
 faw about eight pieces of cannon, mounted 
 on forry carriages j among which was a 
 
 neat
 
 1717. TO ISPAHAN. 157 
 
 neat brafs field-piece, with the name of that 
 noted Prince the Duke of Holftein Gottorp 
 upon it : It feems to have been left here 
 accidentally by the ambaiTadors of that 
 Duke to the then Shach of Perfia. 
 
 The houfes are mean, in comparifon 
 with thofe in other parts of Per fa ; the 
 roofs are raifed and tiled, to carry off the 
 great falls of rain. 
 
 The marines and pools, with which 
 Refhd is furrounded, renders it very un- 
 healthy, efpeciaily in the heat of fummer, 
 when it is often vifned with the pefti- 
 lence ; and, although it is a place of the 
 greateft plenty, the inhabitants look as 
 half ftarved. I was told they were obliged 
 to confine themfelves to a fcanty diet ; that 
 if they allowed themfelves the lead indul- 
 gence, even fo far as to eat their rice 
 with butter, they were liable to agues, the 
 reigning ditlemper in this climate. Many 
 of our people were adually feized with 
 thefe agues, though none of them proved 
 mortal. Here, as at the capitals of the o- 
 
 ther
 
 AJOURNEY 
 
 ther provinces, we were obliged to remain 
 a conflderable time, much longer than we 
 inclined : For every province bears the ex~ 
 pence of ambafTadors, from the time they 
 arrive at its capital, till they reach the ca- 
 pital of the next province, where frefh fup- 
 plies of money and cattle are to be procu- 
 red. The obtaining thefe things, and the 
 rainy weather, detained us in this difagree- 
 able place. The pools are full of frogs 
 that chatter like magpies, and make fuch a 
 loud croaking, befides their chattering, that 
 a perfon cannot fleep till he is accuftomed 
 to that noife. 
 
 The country above Remd is very fruit- 
 ful, particularly in rice, which grows plenti- 
 fully on the marfhy grounds, and is fufficient 
 to fupply moft of the other provinces of 
 Perfia ; there is alfo plenty of fruit natural 
 to the climate. The Armenians, who in- 
 habit Remd, make good wine, both red 
 and white ; and even in the woods you 
 may fee the vines, loaden with clufters of 
 grapes, twifting about the trees, which are 
 
 left
 
 1717- TO ISPAHAN. 159 
 
 left to the birds, as they are not worth ga- 
 thering amid fuch plenty. 
 
 Great flocks of fieldfares, thmfhes, black- 
 birds, with vaft quantities of ftorks, cranes, 
 fwans, wild-geefe, and all other kinds of 
 water-fowl, come hither from the north, 
 during the winter, and return to the nor- 
 thern regions in the fpring. 
 
 The ftaple of Guilan is raw filk, of 
 which they make great quantities, both for 
 their own confumption and for exporta- 
 tion. 
 
 While we remained at Reftid, two am- 
 bafladors arrived from the Aijuka Chan, 
 Prince of the Kolmuck-Tartars, in their 
 way to Ifpahan. 
 
 November Qth, we left Refhd, and tra- 
 velled through thick woods to the fhore, 
 along which we kept to the left, in all a- 
 bout five agatz, and then lodged in a fmall 
 empty village. 
 
 The 1 3th, we proceeded fix agatz to a 
 fmall town called Kefhker. This day the 
 f oad lay through pleafant woods. At fome 
 
 diftance
 
 I A JOURNEY 1717. 
 
 diftance from fea we met with fome groves 
 of orange trees, where we found bloflbms, 
 ripe and green fruit on the fame tree. The 
 great rains detained us fome days at Kefh- 
 ker ; during which a new Maymander ar- 
 rived from Ifpahan, who arrefted the for- 
 mer one for fome fault he had committed 
 on the road. 
 
 The 2oth, we travelled from Kefhker to 
 the fhore three agatz, and halted a little ; 
 then along the fhore four agarz farther ; 
 and at midnight reached an empty village ; 
 a difagreeabie circumftance, after marching 
 in conftant rain the whole day, which had 
 rendered the rivers almoft impafTable to 
 camels. 
 
 From the 2ift to the 27th, we advanced 
 along the fhore. The roads were very 
 good. At laft we came to a town called 
 Aftara, where we halted for refrefhment. 
 There is nothing remarkable about this 
 place, except its pleafant fituation. 
 
 December ift, we reached Siarakent, a 
 large village. And next day Langgara, 
 fituated on the fhore at the mouth of a ri- 
 ver,
 
 1717- TO ISPAHAN. 161 
 
 ver, an agatz diftant from the former. 
 And the 3d to Kyzillagatch, five agatz 
 from Langgara. This day we pafled si- 
 long feveral large bridges, over very deep 
 rivers. In great rains, and ftrong norther- 
 ly winds, thefe rivers fwell above their 
 banks, and, fpreading to a great extent 
 round the bridges, render them impaf- 
 fable. 
 
 The 5th, we travelled five agatz to 
 Tzamachava. 1 was furprifed at the great 
 flocks of water- fowl near this place: fo nu- 
 merous were they that one of our people 
 killed eight geefe at one difcharge. 
 
 The 7th, we entered the plains of Mu- 
 gan. I defcribed what feemed moft re- 
 markable in this defert, when going fouth- 
 ward, and fhall not recapitulate any thing 
 J formerly obferved. The road was very 
 good. We lodged at the river Bulgara, 
 fix agatz from Tzamachava ; the water of 
 the river is muddy and brackifh. Next 
 day we advanced feven agatz, and lodged 
 again in tents ; for there are no houfes in 
 VOL. I* X this
 
 162 AJOURNEY 1717. 
 
 this plain, and only pit water, very brack- 
 ifli. 
 
 On the Qth, we travelled feven agatz to 
 fome fmall huts, beyond the river Kure, 
 which we pafled on a bridge of boats. We 
 paffed this river about a day's journey a- 
 bove this place, in going to Ifpahan, when 
 I made my remarks upon it. Seven agatz 
 from thefe huts ftands a place called Kara- 
 kurody, the laft ftage in the defert, where 
 we lodged on the I ith. 
 
 The 1 2th, we arrived at Shamachy, five 
 agatz from the laft ftage. Since the time 
 we left this place, it had fuffered grievouf- 
 ly by the plague, which raged here all the 
 preceding fummer. It was now much a- 
 bated, though not quite extinguifhed. This 
 was a difagreeable circumftance, many of 
 our people were fickly, and two of them 
 died of the diftemper ; for the empty 
 houfes, where the Perfians had died, not- 
 withftanding every precaution, particularly 
 fmoking the walls, ftill proved infectious. 
 
 I
 
 1717. TO ISPAHAN. 163 
 
 I was informed, that about feventy thou- 
 fand perfons had been carried off by the 
 peftilence within the laft eight months, in 
 Shamachy and the province of Shirvan. 
 
 The i Jth, my old acquaintance, Mon- 
 fieur Yeiifky the Dantzicker, whom I for- 
 merly mentioned, came to vifit me. He 
 was fo altered by ficknefs that I fcarce 
 knew him. He told me what difmal ha- 
 vock the plague had made, particularly in 
 his own family. I afked, why he did not 
 retire to the country for better air ? His 
 anfwer was, whither could he fly from, 
 God Almighty ! This I find to be the ge- 
 neral opinion of the Mahometans, both 
 Perfians and Turks. The fame day I had 
 a vifit from Father Backond, the only mif- 
 fionary at prefent in thefe parts, his com- 
 panion, Father Ricard, being dead of the 
 plague. 
 
 The feafon being now far advanced, it 
 became proper to pitch on fome place for 
 winter- quarters. The terrible peftilence 
 which had prevailed fo long, and with fuch 
 
 deftruction,
 
 i6'4 A JOURNEY 
 
 deftrudion, greatly detered us from chu- 
 fing this place. The fuperior convenience, 
 however, of it, the prefent abatement of the 
 plague, and chiefly becaufe a province is 
 not obliged to fupport the expences of an 
 ambaflador till he arrives at the capital, 
 and feveral other reafons, determined us to 
 winter at Shamachy. 
 
 January I5th, 1718, the chan came to 
 town from the country, where he had been 
 all the laft fummer. 
 
 The 2 1 ft, the ambaflador paid the chan 
 a vifit, which was returned the 251!!. 
 
 Nothipg material happened during the 
 winter j only we often heard of the bad 
 fuccefs of the Shach's forces, which were 
 fent to Chandahar againft the rebel Mery 
 Mahmut, and of many incurfions into the 
 Periian provinces, made by the mountain- 
 eers who inhabit between the Black and 
 Cafpian Seas. 
 
 March loth, one of our gentlemen, 
 Monfieur Lopuchin, was fent away by 
 land to Aftrachan, with an elephant and 
 
 all
 
 1718. TO ISPAHAN. 165 
 
 all the horfes. He was efcorted by thirty 
 Ruffian fpldiera, and feme Aftrachan Tar- 
 tars. In his march, between Derbent and 
 Terky, he was attacked by feme hundreds 
 of the mountaineers, called Shaffkalls, who 
 killed one man and two horfes, and wound* 
 ed feveral men and the elephant. Meet- 
 ing, however, with a warm reception, they 
 thought proper to retire, but carried off 
 three of the horfes. The gentleman arrived 
 fafe, without any further misfortune, at 
 Aftrachan. 
 
 April 1 4th, ftiips, commanded by Captain 
 Rentle, arrived at Niezabatt, in order to 
 tranfport the ambalTador to Aftrachan. He 
 could not, however, proceed immediately 
 to embark, for we were obliged to wait for 
 an anfwer to aft exp'refs, which the chan 
 had defpatched to Ifpahan on affairs of im- 
 portance, which did not return till the end 
 of May. All of us impatiently defired to 
 leave Shamachy before the great heat came 
 on. In the mean time, we diverted our- 
 felves with hunting. I went often to fee 
 
 tjie
 
 1 66 A JOURNEY 1718. 
 
 the filk^worms feeding on mulberry leaves. 
 The inhabitants were apprehenfive that the 
 plague would break out again in the fum- 
 mer ; and we had already buried twenty- 
 two of our people fince our arrival on the 
 frontiers of Perfia. 
 
 On the night of the eight of May, there 
 was fuch flafhes of lightning, as had not 
 happened in the memory of man ; though 
 the night was dark, I could plainly lee the 
 cattle in the adjacent fields, by means of 
 the corufcations ; the lightning was accom- 
 panied with dreadful claps of thunder, 
 which lafted above two hours. 
 
 CHAP,
 
 I 7 i8. TO ISPAHAN. 167 
 
 CHAP. VIIL 
 
 From Shamachy to St Peter/burgh. 
 
 JUNE 1 6th, we left Shamachy, and in 
 four days arrived fafe at Niezabatt, 
 where we found {hips waiting to receive us. 
 On the 2 1 ft, we oegan to load the veflels 
 with all poffible defpatch, which was foon 
 accomplifhed by the affiftance of fome Rufs 
 foldiers, who had wintered at this place. 
 Since I have mentioned thefe foldiers, I 
 fhall briefly relate how they happened to 
 be on this coaft. 
 
 The people of Chiva, a territory (fee p. 
 48.) eaftward from the Cafpian Sea, having 
 
 feveral
 
 168 A JOURNEY i 7 iS. 
 
 feveral times robbed and plundered fome 
 caravans of Ruffian merchants going to Bu- 
 charia, his Czarifli Majefty determined to 
 fend a fmall body of regular troops, and 
 fome Coflacks, to demand fatisfaetion for 
 fuch outrages committed in time of peace. 
 For this purpofe, Mr Beckvitz, a captain 
 of- the guards, who was appointed to com- 
 mand in this expedition, repaired to Aftra- 
 chan, in fummer 1716, in order to make 
 all tfye neceflary preparations againft next 
 fpring. Having accordingly embarked his 
 men, provifions, and ammunition, at the 
 proper feafon, he fleered his courfe along 
 the Cafpian Sea, and landed at a place cal- 
 led Krafna-vooda, i. e. red water, as near 
 to Chiva as he conveniently could. This 
 place was barren and uninhabited. Having 
 therefore moored his tranfports, he erected 
 a fmall fort to fecure his retreat, in cafe of 
 accidents. 
 
 In the mean time, he fent a friendly 
 meflage to the chan of Chiva, to notify his 
 arrival, and to defire that he would furnifh 
 
 him
 
 1718. TO ISPAHAN. 169 
 
 him with provifions and quarters for his 
 men ; for which he offered to pay ready 
 money. The crafty Tartar returned for 
 anfwer, that he might come to Chiva with 
 the greateft fafety, where all his demands 
 mould be granted. At the fame time* fent 
 him a prefent of fruits and frefh provifions, 
 and guides to conduct him on the road, 
 accompanied with the higheft expreffions 
 of refpet to his Gzarifh Majefty. Mr 
 Beckvitz having left about three hundred 
 men in. the fort, to guard the camp and 
 provifionsj proceeded with the reft, and a 
 few field-pieces, towards Chiva. 
 
 In three or four days he arrived in the 
 neighbourhood of the town, where he was 
 met by feveral of the chiefs, who came 
 with compliments from the chan, and to 
 
 fettle matters relative to the cantonment of 
 / 
 
 the foldieis. This particular was difficult 
 to adjuft. 
 
 Mr Beckvitz infifted, that all his men 
 ihould be quartered in the town, and no- 
 thing but infatuation could have influenced 
 VOL. I. Y him
 
 170 AJOURNEY 1718. 
 
 him to alter fo prudent a refolution. But 
 the Tartars ftarted many objections againft 
 putting it in execution, and pretended that 
 the chan and themfelves were willing to 
 agree to it, but the people were averfe, and 
 jealous of having fo many armed men 
 lodged within their walls ; and therefore 
 they propofed, as a means of quieting the 
 minds of the people, that he fhould feparate 
 his men, in order to be quartered more con- 
 veniently in the adjacent villages, and that 
 himfelf fhould have lodgings in the town, 
 with a fufficient guard to attend him. This 
 motion was ftrongly oppofed by all the old 
 officers, who looked on it as a ftratagem 
 laid for their deftrudion. And fuch in 
 reality it proved in the end. 
 
 Mr Beckvitz, deluded by falfe promifes, 
 at laft confented to canton his men. No 
 fooner were they divided into fmall parties, 
 than they were inclofed, and attacked by 
 great numbers of Tartars, and moft of 
 them either killed or taken prifoners, who 
 were afterwards fold for (laves. A few of 
 
 them
 
 1718. TO ISPAHAN. 171 
 
 them taking the alarm, flood to their arms, 
 and made a brave defence for fome time, 
 endeavouring chiefly to regain their camp 
 and mips ; but having a barren defert to 
 pafsj and the Tartar horfe haraffing them 
 day and night, they were at laft obliged to 
 fubmit to fatal neceffity. The imprudence 
 of the general was the fole caufe of all 
 thefe misfortunes ; for, being in no want 
 of provifions or ammunition, had he only 
 kept his men together^ the whole combined 
 power of thefe Tartars could not have pre- 
 vented his regaining the camp and (hipping. 
 The camp was next attacked by the Tar- 
 tars ; but they were repulfed by the garri- 
 fon, which having now intelligence of 
 what had pafied at Chiva, demolimed the 
 fort, reimbarked the men and ftores, and 
 fet fail for Aftrachan. The feafon was 
 now too far advanced to gain that port ; 
 this circumftance, together with hard gales 
 of contrary winds, obliged them to put into 
 Niezabatt, in order to pafs the winter. 
 Here they were hofpitably received by the 
 
 Per-
 
 i 7 2 A JOURN.E Y I7 i8. 
 
 Perfians ; and the prefence of the ambafla- 
 dor at Shamachy contributed greatly to 
 the relief of thefe poor unfortunate people. 
 
 Unhappy Beckvitz hitnfelf happened to 
 be taken prifoner. He was fent for to the 
 chan's tent, on fome pretence of bufmefs, 
 where they firft ftruck off his head, then, 
 after venting their" barbarous rage on his 
 dead body, they flayed it, and, having 
 fluffed the ikin with ftraw, placed it, a 
 miferable fpectacle, on one of the city gates. 
 
 This unfortunate gentleman was the fon 
 of a petty prince, or chief of a tribe in 
 Tzerkefiia, and had been fent to Ruflia in 
 his infancy, as a hoflage for his father's 
 fidelity. 
 
 Being now on the point of departing 
 from Perfia, called by the Perfians Iran, 
 and alfo Pharfiftan, I fhajl clofe what I 
 have to* offer regarding that country, by 
 giving a lift of the principal officers of ftate 
 who attend that mighty monarch at the 
 megihfs, i. e. public audience of ambafTa- 
 dors ; they fit in the hall of audience ac- 
 cording
 
 1718. TO ISPAHAN. 173 
 
 cording to their refpe&ive ranks, and have 
 all of them, on thofe occafions, magnificent 
 capes,' and robes of ftate, kept in the King's 
 wardrobe for that purpofe. 
 
 1. The Etmadowlett, prime minifter. 
 
 2. SpafTelaar, general in chief. 
 
 3. Kurtfy Bafha, general of 1 2,000 
 
 men. 
 
 A. Kular-agafTy, director of the 
 
 prifons. 
 
 5. Tfengy Baflia, general of muf- 
 
 keteers. 
 
 6. Ifhek-agafly Bafha, mafter of 
 
 ceremonies. 
 
 7. Divan Begg, ch'ief juftice. 
 
 8. Toptfhy Bafha, mafter of the 
 
 ordnance. 
 
 9 Vaggian Aviz, fecretary of 
 
 ftate. ' , 
 
 10. Merifh-kaz Bafha, grand fal- 
 
 coner. 
 
 i j . Dgevedar Bafha, general of the 
 
 artillery.' 
 
 12.
 
 I 74 AJOURNEY 1718. 
 
 12. The Milachurd Bafha Giloff, mafter 
 
 of horfe. 
 
 13. Milachurd YafTy Bafha, mafter 
 
 of the field-horfes. 
 
 14. Kolopha. 
 
 15. Mamalek, comptroller of the 
 
 houfehold. 
 
 1 6. KchafTa, cabinet fecretary. 
 
 17. Nazyr Daftar, fteward of the 
 
 houfehold. 
 
 1 8. Vifir Ifpahan, chief magiftrate 
 
 of Ifpahan. 
 
 19. Vifir Kurtfy, general of horfe. 
 
 20. Vifir Kule. 
 
 21. Chafnadar Bafha, chief treafu- 
 
 rer. 
 
 22. Kaliphar Kafhkar, chief judge 
 
 in civil affairs. 
 
 23. Doroga Taftar, judge of the 
 
 city. 
 
 24. Sachapt Tauchtzy. 
 
 25. Sachapt Narvifs, chief aftrolo- 
 
 ger. 
 
 26. Hakim Bafha, chief phyfician. 
 
 The
 
 ! 7 i8. TO ISPAHAN. 
 
 The following officers attend the Shach 
 wherever he goes. 
 
 1. The Ibrahim Aga, chief of the eu- 
 
 nuchs. 
 
 2. Yeufh Bafha, chief of the white 
 
 eunuchs. 
 
 3. Achmet Aga, chief of the black 
 
 eunuchs. 
 
 4. Klitch Kurtfhy, fword-bearer. 
 
 5. Tzatyn Bafha, quiver-bearer. 
 
 6. Saddach Kurtfhy, bow-bearer. 
 
 7. Tfang Kurtfhy, mufket- bearer. 
 
 8. Dgid Kurtftiy, dart-bearer. 
 
 9. Kalchan Kurtfhy, target-bearer. 
 
 The following are the chief doctors of 
 the law of Mahomet. 
 
 1 . Sadyr Chafla, the fame office in Per- 
 
 fia as that of the Mufti in Turkey* 
 
 2. Sadyr Mammalek. 
 
 3. Fazyl. 
 
 4. Shach Iflam. 
 
 5. Chazy. 
 
 6. Mullah Bafha. 
 
 7. Mu-
 
 176 
 
 7. Mudarafs. 
 
 8. Piflinamafh. 
 
 9. Mutafhett Baflia. 
 10. Moaftiam Baflia. 
 
 Thefe are the principal j befides whom, 
 there are many other officers, too numerous 
 to recite. With the foregoing lift I clofe 
 what I have to fay regarding Perfia. 
 
 The 26th, we fet fail from Niezabatt 
 with a fair wind at fouth-eaft, which lafted 
 only a few hours ; after which we were 
 becalmed for three days. 
 
 Tuly 2d, the wind became again fair, 
 and carried us, with a gentle breeze, out 
 of the deep water into foundings ; but turn- 
 ing contrary, we came to anchor in thirty- 
 fathom water, where we lay till the loth, 
 when it blew a very hard gale, which drove 
 us from our anchors out to fea ; and, con- 
 tinuing for two days, brought us again in 
 fight of the Perfian fliore, which was at this 
 time no very agreeable object, 
 
 The
 
 171$. TO ISPAHAN. 177 
 
 The I Jth, the wind chopped about fa- 
 vourable, and fo continued, with little va- 
 riation, till the 1 8th, when we arrived fafe 
 at Aftrachan, to the great joy of all our 
 company. 
 
 September yth, leaving Aftrachan, we 
 failed up the Volga. Our progrefs, con- 
 trary to the courfe of the river, was very 
 flow and tedious. In calms the boats were 
 drawn up by men, who went upon the 
 banks ; but in hard gales, we were obliged 
 to haul them near the fide, and lie ftill. 
 
 October I2th, after a voyage of five 
 weeks, we arrived at the town of SaratofF, 
 about eight hundred verft diftant from A- 
 ftrachan. The winter drawing on, pre- 
 vented our farther progrefs by water. We 
 therefore unloaded, and difcharged the 
 boats, being refolved to remain here till th~ 
 fnow fell, when we might proceed by land 
 in fledges. 
 
 November ift, there had now been a lit- 
 tle fall of fnow, fufficient to fmooth the 
 VOL. I. Z roads,
 
 178 A JOURNEY 1718. 
 
 roads, and .this day we fet out from SaratofF 
 in fledges. 
 
 The 3d, we came to a little town called 
 Petrofky, about ninety verft from Saratoff. 
 
 The 8th, we came to a large town called 
 Penze, ninety verfl from the former. As 
 we advanced to the north, the froft and 
 fnow daily increafed, which made the 
 roads very fmooth and eafy. Before we left 
 this place, a fudden rain obliged us to 
 halt a few days. Here we met with Bri- 
 gadier Kropotoff, who, with fome regi- 
 ments of dragoons, had winter quarters at 
 this place. 
 
 The i.4th, the froft and fnow returning, 
 we fet out from Penze. 
 
 The 1 5th, we reached Saranfky, eighty 
 verft from the former. Here we found 
 many Swedifli officers, taken at Poltava, 
 who were well quartered in a plentiful 
 country. 
 
 The 1 7th, we left Saranfky, and the 21 ft, 
 arrived at Arzamafs, an hundred verft from 
 Saranfky. 
 
 The
 
 1718. TO ISPAHAN. 179 
 
 The 24th, we came to Murum, 360 
 verft from Saratoff, which I mentioned in 
 going fouthward by water. From Saratoff 
 to Petrofky, the country is fomewhat dry 
 and barren ; but the reft of the country, 
 through which we pafied, is very fruitful, 
 producing all kinds of corn, fine woods, 
 particularly of oaks, interfperfed with many 
 villages ; and the face of the country, con- 
 ftantly varied by plain and gently rifing 
 grounds, affords a moft beautiful profpet. 
 From Murum we came to the town of 
 Wolodimir, an hundred and thirty verft 
 from Murum. This place is large and 
 well peopled, and famous for being for- 
 merly the refidence of a great prince of the 
 fame name. 
 
 The joth, we arrived fafe at the city of 
 Mofco, an hundred and forty verft from 
 the former, and feven hundred and feventy 
 from Saratoff. 
 
 December I9th, we proceeded towards 
 St Peterfburgh, where we arrived on the 
 30th. Nothing material happened during 
 
 our
 
 i8o A JOURNEY 1718, 
 
 our return through Ruflia, and what was 
 moft remarkable in the country I defcribed 
 in going fouthward. I cannot help taking 
 notice of an extraordinary cafe of one of 
 our people, in an exceffive cold night, 
 The fellow, expecting to baniih all feeling 
 of cold from himfelf, drunk a large quan- 
 tity of fpirits, which produced a drowfmefs, 
 that ended in fleep in an open fledge. 
 On arriving at a village, the perfon was 
 found ftiff, fpeechlefs, and apparently quite 
 dead ; but being carried to a brook hard 
 by, and plunged feveral times in the wa- 
 ter, and then rubbed with inow, and 
 brought into a warm room, with proper 
 regimen he ibon recovered, and was able 
 to proceed next day. 
 
 I have often obferved, in other inftances, 
 that the ufe of ipiritous liquors in cold 
 weather, is the word of remedies ; for, 
 though they warm at firft, they leave a 
 chilnefs behind them, not to be got clear 
 of for a confiderable time. I have found 
 by experience nothing preferable to weak 
 
 warm
 
 1718. TO ISPAHAN. 
 
 warm liquors, mixed with a little fpirits* 
 The Ruffian travellers carefully avoid the 
 exceffive ufe of brandy in ftrong frofts. 
 
 Thus I have fmifhed my account of a 
 long, tedious, and dangerous journey which 
 lafted for three years, attended with many 
 difficulties, not eafily conceived by thofe 
 who have not travelled the fame road. At 
 our return to St Peterfburgh, we found his 
 Majefty at that place, who, I was informed, 
 was well fatisfied with the conduct of his 
 ambaffador, whofe principal errand was to 
 cultivate and cement amity, and a good 
 correfpondence, between the two crowns of 
 Ruffia and Perfia. 
 
 Notwithftanding the war with Sweden 
 had continued near twenty years, this ac- 
 tive monarch had not neglected, nor even 
 fufpended, the building and adorning his 
 new capital. During my abfence, the ap- 
 pearances of things were fo changed, that 
 I could fcarce imagine myfelf in the fame 
 place ; fo furprifing was the alteration in fo 
 ihort a time. Befides, this Prince had fit- 
 ted
 
 i82 A JOURNEY 1718. 
 
 ted out a navy of thirty fhips of war, and 
 three hundred gallies : Interprifes which 
 might have been the work of ages, but not 
 fuperior to the fingle induftry and adivity 
 of Peter the Firft. 
 
 A JOUR-
 
 JOURNEY 
 
 I 
 
 FROM 
 
 ST PETERSBURGH 
 IN RUSSIA, 
 
 T O 
 
 P E K I N 
 
 WITH AN EMBASSY 
 FROM HIS IMPERIAL MAJESTY, 
 
 PETER T,H E FIRST, 
 
 T O 
 
 K A M H 
 EMPEROR OF CHINA, 
 
 IN THE YEAR M.DCC.XIX.
 
 Names of the principal perfons who com- 
 pofed the train of the Ambaffador^ 
 Leoff Vaflilovich Ifmayloff. 
 
 Secretary of the Embafly, 
 
 Laurence de Lange. 
 
 S ' c '"^ 
 
 The Ambaflador's Secretary, 
 
 Ivan Glazunoff. 
 
 Gentlemen of the Embafly, 
 Kneaz Alexander Safeckin, 
 Nicolaus de Pauli Kreftitz, 
 Lukian NefterofF, 
 Alexie Divoff, 
 David Grave, 
 The Author of this Journal. 
 
 Gregory, a Prieft. 
 
 Interpreters, clerks, a band of mufic, 
 valets, footmen, &c. in all to the number 
 of about fixty perfons ; befides a troop of 
 twenty-five dragoons,, for our efcort from 
 Tobolcfky to Pekin, and back. 
 
 A
 
 JOURNEY, &c. 
 
 CHAP. I, 
 
 * 
 
 From Sf Peferjburgh to Tololfky, 
 the Capital of Siberia. 
 
 WHEN I arrived at St Peterlburgh 
 from Ifpahan, I met with a very 
 fenfible mortification, on finding that my 
 very worthy friend, Dr Arefkine, was no 
 more ; he died about fix weeks before my 
 arrival. Not long after which^ upon being 
 informed that an embafly was preparing 
 for China, and that his Majefty had nomi- 
 VOL, I f A a nateci
 
 186 A JOURNEY 1719. 
 
 nated LeofF VafFilovich IfmaylofF, a gentle- 
 man of a family very well known and 
 much refpe&ed in Ruffia, and a captain of 
 the guards, for that employment, I became 
 very defirous of making that journey in 
 his train. 
 
 Upon my acquainting my very good 
 friend, Artemy Petrovich Valenfky, with 
 rny defire, he, without lofs of time, recom- 
 mended me to LeofF Vaffilovich IfmaylofF, 
 the appointed ambafFador, in fuch a man- 
 ner as- produced, on all occafions, marks of 
 friendfhip and regard for me, as well du- 
 ring the journey, as alfo after our re- 
 turn, until he died in 1736. 
 
 The time between my return from If- 
 pahan and my fetting out for Pekin, I 
 fpent. with much fatisfa&ion with my 
 friends and acquaintance at St Peterfburgh. 
 Among whom I efteemed as fuch, not on- 
 ly feveral worthy perfons of my own 
 countrymen, as well in trade as in the fer- 
 vice of his Majefty ; but alfo not a few of 
 the Ruffian gentry, to whom I became 
 
 known
 
 ijig. T O P E K I N. 187 
 
 known on occanon of my journey to Per- 
 fia, and of whom I found many to be per- 
 ions of much worth and honour. 
 
 At length the prefents for the Emperor 
 of China being got ready, as well as the 
 ambafladoi's defpatches, I fet out from St 
 Peterfburgh the i4th of July, 1719, in. 
 company with Meffieurs Lange and Grave, 
 attended by a few fervants ; the fir ft was 
 a native of Sweden, and the other of Cour- 
 land. We travelled to the city of Mofco 
 in fmall parties, the more eafily to procure 
 poft-horfes. The weather being very hot 
 obliged us to make fhort ftages, confining 
 us moflly to the mornings and evenings. 
 Having in my Perfian journal defcribed 
 what is moft remarkable on this road, I 
 have nothing to add to what I have there 
 obferved. 
 
 Nothing material happened during our 
 journey to Mofco, where we arrived on 
 the 3oth of Julyj and joined the ambalTa- 
 dor, who had arrived there two days be- 
 fore, having pa (Ted us on the road. We 
 
 took
 
 A JOURNEY 1719. 
 
 took up our lodgings at the houfe of Mr 
 Belayof, near the triumphal arch. , Here 
 we fpent five weeks in preparing barks to 
 go by water to Cazan, and neceflaries for 
 fo long and unfrequented a road. This 
 interval we pafled very agreeably, being 
 invited to all the entertainments the place 
 afforded. 
 
 September Qth, having {hipped our bag- 
 gage, and prepared every thing for our 
 departure, we went ourfelves on board ; 
 and, after firing nine guns, rowed down 
 the river Mofco. There is a fhorter way 
 from Mofco to Siberia through Yaro- 
 flave ; but, as we were incumbered with 
 heavy baggage, confifting chiefly of pre- 
 fents from his Majefty to the Emperor of 
 China, it was thought beft to proceed as 
 far as poflible by water. 
 
 Accordingly, we continued our courfe 
 down the Mofco river to Kolumna, then 
 into the river Ocka ; and, paffing Pere- 
 flave-Refanfky, Murum, and other towns 
 of lefs note, we arrived at Nifhna-Novogo* 
 
 rod,
 
 1719. TO P E fc I N. 189 
 
 rod, fituated to the right hand, on a high 
 bank of the Ocka, at its confluence with 
 the Volga. Leaving Nifhna, we entered 
 the river Volga, and proceeded towards 
 Cazan. 
 
 After a voyage of fix weeks we arrived 
 at Cazan on the 2oth of October. We 
 intended to have continued our route far- 
 ther down the Volga to the river Kama, 
 which falls into the Volga about fixty verft 
 below Cazan, and then up the Kama to 
 Solikamfky ; but the advancement of the 
 feafon, and the froft coming on apace, 
 made us refolve to remain at Cazan till the 
 winter fet in, left we fhould run the ha- 
 zard of being frozen up near fome unin- 
 habited place on the Kama. 
 
 In confequence of this refolution, the 
 barks were difcharged, and we took up our 
 lodgings in the city. Here I found many 
 of my old friends and acquaintance, parti- 
 cularly the Swedifh officers ; among others, 
 General Hamilton, General Rofen, and 
 Baron Wachmaiter, who ftill .remained 
 
 prifoners
 
 190 A JOURNEY 1719. 
 
 prifoners of war, regretting the hard fate 
 of their long captivity. We ftaid here a- 
 bout five weeks, waiting for the fnow fal- 
 ling to fmooth the roads, and in the mean 
 time were employed in preparing fledges, 
 and other neceflaries for our journey. Ha- 
 ving formerly made my remarks on this 
 route, and particularly on Cazan and its 
 neighbourhood, I fhall now purfue our 
 journey towards Siberia. 
 
 November 24th, we fent off the heavy 
 baggage ; but Monfieur Ifmayloff, with a 
 few of the gentlemen, remained fome days 
 longer, becaufe it was difagreeable travel- 
 ling on rough roads with loaded fledges. 
 At laft, on the 28th, late in the night, the 
 ambafTador quitted Cazan, keeping to the 
 north-eaftward. There being many villa- 
 ges on the road, we changed horfes as 
 often as occafion required. 
 
 The 29th, we travelled through woods, 
 confiding chiefly of tall oaks, fir, and 
 birch. This part of the country is very 
 fruitful, producing plenty of cattle, corn, 
 
 and
 
 1719. T P E K I N. 191 
 
 and honey. The hives are not made like 
 thofe in England ; the inhabitants take the 
 trunk of a lime-tree, afpin, or any {"oft 
 wood, of about five or fix feet long ; ha- 
 ving fcooped it hollow, they make a large 
 aperture in one fide, about a foot in length 
 and four inches broad ; they then fix crofs 
 rods within the trunk for the bees to build 
 upon, and, having done this, clofe up the 
 place carefully with a board, leaving fmall 
 notches for the bees to go in and out. 
 Thefe hives are planted in proper places, 
 at the fide of a wood, and tied to a tree 
 with ftrong wythes, to prevent their being 
 deftroyed by the bears, who are great de- 
 vourers of honey. The wax and honey 
 exported yearly from Cazan make a very 
 confiderable article of trade. I have feen 
 above an hundred hives near one village, 
 and was informed, that they have a me- 
 thod of extracting the honey and wax 
 without killing the bees, which would cer- 
 tainly be worth knowing ; but I was told 
 it fo indiftinctly, that I could not under- 
 
 ftand
 
 A JOURNEY 1719, 
 
 ftand it, and had no opportunity of feeing 
 it practifed. 
 
 The villages through which we pafled 
 were moftly inhabited by the Tzeremifh 
 and Tzoowafti Tartars, whom 1 have for- 
 merly mentioned. The three following 
 days the roads were rough and narrow, ly- 
 ing through dark woods, interfperfed with 
 fome villages and corn-fields. We pafled 
 the Ick and feveral fmaller rivers, and then 
 the Viatka, a pretty large one ; all which 
 ^ifcharge themfelves into the Kama. 
 
 After a tedious journey of fix days we 
 came to a fmall town called Klinof, or 
 more commonly Viatka, from the river of 
 that name running near it. The fituation 
 of this place is very pleafant, having round 
 it corn-fields and fine pafture ; and the ri- 
 vers in the neighbourhood abounding with 
 great variety of fifh. 
 
 The country about Klinof is reckoned 
 fo proper pafturage for fheep, that his Ma- 
 jefly ordered fome thoufands of German 
 iheep, moft efteemed for their wool, to be 
 
 bought
 
 1719- TO P E K I N. 193 
 
 bought and fent thither, with a view to 
 eftablifh a manufactory at this place for 
 clothing his army. He alfo caufed a Ger- 
 man ihepherd to be engaged in his fervice, 
 who is fettled here, and enjoys a confider- 
 able falary. The flocks are already fo nu- 
 merous, that I am perfuaded they will in 
 time anfwer the end propofed. A thou- 
 fand other inftances might be produced of 
 the unbounded genius of this great and ac- 
 tive Prince, who fpares no expence, and 
 overlooks nothing that can contribute ei- 
 ther to the honour or advantage of his 
 empire. 1 cannot omit another feemingly 
 inconfiderable article ; I mean pump-lea- 
 ther. This commodity was formerly 
 brought from England and Holland at no 
 fmall charge ; to fave which, his Majefty 
 gave orders to engage an Englim tanner 
 for a certain number of years, whom he 
 fent to Cazan, where the beft hides are, to 
 teach the natives the art of drefiing them. 
 This fcheme has fully anfwered the end in 
 view, and produced abundance, not only 
 VOL. I. B b f
 
 194 A JOURNEY 1719, 
 
 of pump-leather, but of every other kind 
 of leather whereof that country hath any 
 need. 
 
 There being no verft-pofts on this, tho' 
 on mofl other roads in Ruflia, I compute 
 the diftance between Cazan and Klinof to 
 be about five hundred verft ; each verft 
 meafures one thoufand one hundred and 
 fixty-fix yards and two feet Englifh. Here 
 1 met with feveral Swedifh officers, who 
 pafTed a folitary life in a pleafant and plen- 
 tiful country. We halted one day to re- 
 frefh ourfelves ; ana the next, being the 
 5th of December, we left the baggage to 
 follow leifurely, and fet out again toward 
 Solikamlky. On the yth, we reached 
 Kay-gorod, a fmall town. We perceived 
 the cold becoming daily more intenfe as 
 we proceeded northward along the banks 
 of the Kama. 
 
 The 8th, we quitted Kay-gorod in a ve- 
 hement cold. Though there was little 
 wind, and a thick fog, the froft continued 
 fo penetrating, that feveral of our people, 
 
 who
 
 1719- T P E K I N. 195 
 
 who were moft expofed, had their fingers 
 and toes frozen. Moft of them recovered 
 by the common method of rubbing the 
 numbed parts with fnow ; but, had we not 
 halted from time to time at -villages to let 
 them warm themfelves, they muft have 
 perifhed by cold. On the gth, we arrived 
 at the town of Solikamfky, derived from 
 Sole fait and Kama the river, on the banks 
 of which it is fituated. Our arrival was a 
 moft agreeable circumftance, as the pier- 
 cing froft ftill prevailed.. 
 
 Solikamfky is a large and populous 
 town, and the capital of a province of 
 that name ; which is at prefent annexed 
 to the government of Siberia. Its fitua- 
 tion is very pleafant, upon the eaftern bank 
 of the Kama. This river is of great fame 
 in thefe parts of the world. It rifes far .to 
 the north, and in its courfe receives the 
 Parma, Pilva, Koyva, and many other ri- 
 vers, which together form a mighty ftream, 
 very nearly equal to the Volga, into which 
 it difcharges itfelf, about fixty verft beloiv 
 
 the
 
 I 9 6 A JOURNEY i 7 ig. 
 
 the city of Cazan, and lofes its name. Its 
 long courfe to the fouth-weft is now turned 
 fliort, by the current of the Volga, and 
 carried toward the fouth-eaft. The Kama 
 is well flored with variety of excellent fifh. 
 On the banks are fine corn-fields and paf- 
 ture grounds, but often interrupted by 
 thick woods, efpecially to the north. Thefe 
 woods are (locked with different kinds of 
 game, and wild beafts, natural to the cli- 
 mate. 
 
 Solikamfky is famous for having many 
 fait- pits in its neighbourhood, the property 
 of my worthy friend Baron Stroganof, by 
 virtue of a grant from his Majefty. The 
 Baron has brought thefe works to fuch per- 
 fection, that he is able to ferve all Ruffia 
 with fait, and could befides furnifh a con- 
 fiderable quantity for exportation, were 
 there any demand. The fait is of a brown- 
 sfh colour, and very good of the kind. 
 
 The common method of procuring this 
 fait is as follows : They dig pits in the 
 earth till they come to the falt-rock, which 
 
 feems
 
 1719* TO P E K I N. 197 
 
 feems to lie in thefe parts at a certain dif- 
 tance from the furface, as coals do in other 
 places of the world. When the pit is fi- 
 nimed, it is naturally, and of courfe, filled 
 with water ; which, {landing for a conve- 
 nient time, till it is fufficiently impregna- 
 ted with the fait, is then drawn out with 
 pumps and other engines, and put into 
 large iron caldrons, where it is boiled to 
 a proper confidence ; when, the water 
 being evaporated, the fait is left upon the 
 bottom. 
 
 I was informed of another curious and 
 extraordinary procefs, by which they draw 
 fait- water from a frefli- water river, which 
 I cannot omit taking notice of. In the ri- 
 vers near this place there is a mixture of 
 falt-water arifing from the fprings, which 
 either have their fource in the falt-rocks, or 
 run through them. It is the bufmefs of 
 the inhabitants to difcover the places where 
 thefe fprings empty themfelves into the ri- 
 vers, which they do by diving, or fome 
 other manner ; having done this, they 
 
 make
 
 A JOURNEY 
 
 make a large frame of ftrong thick balks 
 or beams joined very clofe, about fifteen 
 or twenty feet fquare, and of depth enough 
 to reach the bottom of the river, while 
 part of it remains above the furface ; when 
 the ice is very ftrong, they fink this ma- 
 chine into the river, over the place where 
 the fait fpring iffues, and drive ftrong piles 
 of wood all around, to hinder its being 
 forced from this pofition by the current, or 
 by floating ice in the end of winter. Du- 
 ring the winter, they draw out all the 
 water, mud, and fand, contained within 
 the machine, and fink it ftill deeper un- 
 til it hath penetrated the bottom of the 
 channel of the river, and prevented all 
 further communication between it and the 
 fait fpring. The frame is now filled on- 
 ly with the falt-water, ifluing from the 
 fpring, from whence it is drawn, and the 
 fait extracted, as formerly defcribed. 
 
 However tedious and expenfive this 
 
 procefs may feem, thefe people perform it 
 
 ' xvith great readinefs and eafej and, what is 
 
 ftill
 
 1719. TO P E K I N. 
 
 ftill more extraordinary, without regular 
 inftruction in any art fubfervient to that 
 purpofe, but by the mere force of natural 
 genius. The Baron has a great number of 
 hands conftantly employed in this fervice. 
 And the woods for fewel are inexhauf- 
 tible. 
 
 When the fait is made, it is laid up in 
 granaries, till the feafon of Iran/porting it 
 to Mofco, St Peterfburgh, and other pla- 
 ces. The barks for this purpofe, called by 
 the Ruffians lodia, are of a conftru&ion 
 fomewhat uncommon. I have feen fome 
 of them longer and broader than any firft 
 rate man of war in England, and not one 
 iron nail in the whole fabric. All of them 
 are flat-bottomed, having one tall tree for 
 a maft, and a fail of light canvafs in pro- 
 portion. To manage this mighty machine, 
 fix or eight hundred men are neceflary. 
 The rudder is nearly as long as the bark, 
 and fo unwieldy, that fometimes it requires 
 forty or fifty men to fleer it. They load 
 thefe fhips very deep, and let them float 
 
 down
 
 A JOURNEY 1719. 
 
 down the Kama into the Volga ; where, 
 if the wind is not favourable, they are o- 
 bliged to draw them, againft the ftream, to 
 the place of their deftination. 
 
 I cannot leave Solikamiky without men- 
 tioning the rich iron-mines in the country 
 adjacent, at Kathenaburg, and other places 
 of that diftricT:, which produce iron, equal 
 perhaps in quality to the beft in the world. 
 Thefe works have of late been brought to 
 great perfection, by the fkill and indefati- 
 gable induftry of Mr Demidof, a native of 
 Ruffia, enabled and encouraged to carry 
 them on by a beneficial grant from his Ma- 
 jefty, who is always ready to affift and pro- 
 tect thofe who, by their ingenuity, form 
 projects to the advantage of his country. 
 
 Thefe works, I am informed, are ftill 
 capable of great improvement. The ore is 
 very good, and rifes in many places to the 
 very furface of the earth, and may be dug 
 at a fmall expence. As for wood to fmelt 
 it, no place in the world can have greater 
 advantage. Befides, all the machines may 
 
 be
 
 1719- TO P E K I N. 
 
 Be driven by water ; and there is an eafy 
 communication by the rivers to St Peterf- 
 burgh, for exportation, and to many other 
 parts of Ruffia, for inland confumption. 
 
 In thefe mines are often found magnets 
 of various fizes. I have feen fome of them 
 very large, and of high virtue. 
 
 There are feveral other iron-works in 
 Ruffia ; for inftance, at Tula, Olonhz,' and 
 other places ; but the metal is of an infe- 
 rior quality to that of Siberia. Befides thefe 
 of iron, there are alfo rich mines of excel- 
 lent copper at this place, which, being late- 
 ly difcovered, are capable of great improve- 
 ment. The copper- ore alfo rifes to the 
 very furface. 
 
 In the neighbourhood of Solikamlky is 
 found the foffil called afbeftos ; of which is 
 made a kind of cloth like linen, that may 
 be put into the fire, and taken out again, 
 unconfumed. This cloth was known a- 
 mong the ancients, and ufed by them on fe- 
 veral occafions. At prefent, it goes by the 
 name of the incornbuftible linen. 
 
 VOL. I. C c The
 
 202 A JOURNEY 
 
 The afbeftos, like many both curious and 
 ufeful difcoveries, was found out by mere 
 accident in thefe parts. 1 fhall briefly relate 
 in what manner : A certain huntfman 
 being about te load his fowling-piece, and 
 wanting wadding, obferved a great flone in. 
 the woods, which Teemed to have fome 
 flakes upon it like loofe threads ; he foon 
 found that, by rubbing, it turned into a foft 
 downy fu'^ftance fit for his ufe : He therefore 
 filled his pocket with it ; but, having fired 
 his piece, was furprifed to fee that the gun- 
 powder had no effect upon the wadding. 
 This raifed his curiofity fo far, that he 
 kindled a fire on purpofe, into which he 
 put the albeftos ; but ftill took it out en- 
 tire^jand of the fame ufe as formerly. This 
 experiment fo frightened the poor fportf- 
 man, that he imagined the devil had ta- 
 ken pofleffion of the fofiil. On return- 
 ing home, he narrated what had happened 
 to the prieft of the parifh, who, amazed at 
 the relation, repeated it fo frequently, that 
 at laft he told it to a perfon who was ao 
 
 quainte^
 
 TO P E K I N. 203 
 
 quainted with that quality peculiar to the 
 afbeftos ; and, on examination, found the 
 flakes to be that foffil. 
 
 The weather is much colder at Solikam- 
 fky than at other places fituated feveral de- 
 grees nearer to the north pole. Perhaps 
 its great diftance from any part of the o- 
 cean may be partly the caufe of the excef- 
 five cold, which fometimes prevails. 
 
 December loth, the ambaffador took 
 poft-horfes, and fet out for Tobolfky, lea- 
 ving the baggage to follow as fhould be 
 moft convenient. About midnight we came 
 to a village called Martinfky ; here having 
 changed horfes, we foon reached the moun- 
 tains named Verchaturfky-gory, where we 
 found the fnow very deep, and a ftrong 
 froft ftill continued. We kept on our jour- 
 ney, afcending and defcending thefe high 
 and fteep mountains for the fpace of fifteen 
 hours. In fuch of the valleys as are fit for 
 culture, are found Ruffian villages well 
 peopled. And, where the woods are cue 
 
 down,
 
 204 A JOURNEY 1719. 
 
 down, there appeared a beautiful landfcape, 
 even at this bleak feafon. 
 
 Thefe mountains divide Ruflia from Si- 
 beria. They run in a ridge from north to 
 focth, inclining a liule to the eaft and weft 
 of thefe points. They are quite covered 
 with wood, confiding of tall firs of differ- 
 ent kinds, larixes, birch, and other trees 
 natural to the climate ; and abound with 
 game, and various kinds of wild beafts. 
 Their length, from north to fouth, I can- 
 not afcertain ; but compute their breadth, 
 where we palled, to be about forty Englifh 
 miles. But they are not near fo high as 
 the mountains I have feen in Perfia, and 
 other parts of the world. 
 
 Having pafled thefe mountains, we de- 
 fcended, on the i ith, into a country finely 
 varied with plains and rifing grounds, in- 
 terfperfed with woods, villages, corn-fields, 
 and pafturage ; and, in the evening, reach- 
 ed the town called Verchaturia, from verch, 
 which fignifies high, and Tura the name of 
 the river on which the town ftands. This 
 
 river
 
 1719- T P E K I N. 205 
 
 river is navigable, and runs to the eaft till 
 it empties itfelf into the Tobol. Vercha- 
 turia is pleafamly fituated upon a rifing 
 ground, and fortified with a ditch and pal- 
 lifades. It is governed by a commandant, 
 who has under him a garrifon, confifting of 
 fome regular troops and Coflacks. What 
 makes Verchaturia confiderable, is its being 
 a frontier town, and commanding the only 
 entry from Ruffia into Siberia. Here is a 
 cuftom-houfe, where all merchants are obli- 
 ged to make entry of what fums of money 
 or merchandife they carry into Siberia, or 
 from Siberia into Ruflia ; on all which is 
 charged a duty of ten per cent, to his Ma- 
 jefty. Though this impoft may appear 
 high, it is really very moderate, confider- 
 ing the profits which the trade yields, and 
 it extends only to the money to be employ- 
 ed in traffic ; for every merchant is allow- 
 ed a certain fum for his expences, free of 
 all duty. 
 
 The country adjacent to Verchaturia is 
 inhabited by a race of people calLed Vo- 
 
 gullitz,
 
 06 AJOURNEY 
 
 gullitz, who differ in language, drefs, and 
 manners* from any nation I ever faw. 
 Their features and perfons have a refem- 
 blance of the Tzoowafliians near Cazan. 
 They have fome obfcure notions of the 
 Deity, and are very fond of a kind of wi- 
 zards called Shamans, whom they hold in 
 great efteem. I fhall have occafion to fpeak 
 more fully of thefe Shamans afterwards. 
 The Vogullitz know nothing of agricul- 
 ture, but live in huts in the woods, and 
 fubfift by hunting and fifhing. They are 
 an honeft inofFenfive people; but not very- 
 numerous ; arifing, perhaps, from their 
 unfocial and uncomfortable manner of life. 
 The Archbifhop of Tobolfky hath of late, 
 by fc his pious labours, converted many of 
 them to Chriftianity ; who now begin to 
 build houfes, and cultivate fome appear- 
 ance of fociety ; and probably, in time, the 
 reft will follow fo laudable an example. 
 This, however, will depend much on the 
 encouragement they meet with, from the 
 clergy and fub-governours of provinces. I 
 
 vifited
 
 1719. TO P E K 1 N. 2.97 
 
 vifited them as often as any opportunity 
 offered, both in their huts and houfes, and 
 endeavoured to procure fome information 
 about their original, or from whence they 
 came to fettle in thefe northern parts, but 
 could obtain nothing fatisfa&ory on either 
 of thefe heads. 
 
 Before we enter Siberia, it will not be 
 perhaps improper to give a fhort account 
 of the fingular manner in which this moft 
 extenfive country was difcovered by the 
 Ruffians. 
 
 About the beginning of the laft century, 
 a certain Don-CorTack, named Yarmak Ti- 
 motheovitz, being obliged, by fome acci- 
 dent, to leave his native country, and ha- 
 ving no means pf fubfiftence, he, with a 
 few accomplices, betook themfelves to rob- 
 bing on the highways? He foon became 
 famous and powerful ; for he robbed only 
 the rich ; and, by a generofity uncommon 
 in fuch a character, liberally beftowed to 
 fuch as were in want. He never killed, 
 nor even hurt any perfon, unlefs compelled 
 
 to
 
 208 A JOURNEY 
 
 to fuch outrages in his own defence. This 
 behaviour fo raifed his reputation, that all 
 the idle fellows in the country enlifted 
 themfelves in his gang, proud to follow fo 
 brave and enterprifmg a leader. He became 
 at laft fo troublefome, that the governours 
 of the fouthern provinces fent out troops 
 to apprehend him ; but, being previoufly 
 informed of the defign, he withdrew from 
 the land, and procuring boats upon the 
 Volga, commenced pirate on that river. 
 Being attacked here alfo, he was forced to 
 crofs the Cafpian Sea, and flicker himfelf 
 on the Perfian fhore, where he pafTed fome 
 time under the difguife of a merchant. 
 Being again discovered, he was obliged, by 
 the Perfians, to quit their coaft : And now 
 his only refuge was to return to the Vol- 
 ga, where he behaved with great circum- 
 fpection, often lurking in woods and villa- 
 ges ; and, being in no want of money, paid 
 the inhabitants liberally for every thing he 
 needed. Forefeeing, however, that fuch a 
 numerous gang could not be long conceal- 
 
 ed,
 
 TO P E K I N. 
 
 209 
 
 ed, he took the refolution of leaving the 
 Volga, and fleered his courfe up the river 
 Kama, at that time little frequented by the 
 Ruffians, or any other nation ; here he 
 hoped to find, at leaft, a fafe retreat during 
 the winter. ^Yarmak, therefore, with his 
 followers, amounting to the number of 
 two Jhundred, continued their voyage up 
 the Kama, till they were flopped by the 
 ice, at no great diftance from a large vil- 
 lage, now belonging to Baron Stroganof. 
 The inhabitants were alarmed at the fight of 
 fo many armed men, whom they were not 
 able to oppofe, and therefore gave them an 
 hofpitable reception. Yarmak demanded 
 only provifions and winter-quarters for his 
 money, promiiing to leave them unmo- 
 lefted next fpring. In confequence of this 
 declaration, he and his followers pafled the 
 winter very quietly in this remote place ; 
 afraid, however, at the approach of fum- 
 mer, of being difcovered by the govern- 
 ment, and uncertain what courfe to fteer ; 
 it was at laft determined to crofs the moun- 
 VOL. I. D d tains
 
 2io A JOURNEY 1719. 
 
 tains of Verchaturia, and go to the eaft- 
 ward, in hopes of finding fome inhabited 
 country, or at lead a fafe retreat. 
 
 Having patted the mountains, they arri- 
 ved at the river Tur ; and, rinding it na- 
 vigable, foon made a fufficient number of 
 canoes for the whole gang. After rowing 
 for fome days down the Tur, they difco- 
 vered feveral villages of Mahometan Tar- 
 tars, who were furprifed at the fight of 
 fuch a number of ftrangers, of whom they 
 had before never fo much as heard. Yar- 
 mak having got what intelligence he could 
 procure of the fituation and government of 
 the country, purfued his voyage to the ri- 
 ver Tobol, where he found the towns po- 
 pulous, and the land well cultivated. His 
 approach alarmed the King of the Tartars, 
 who aflembled a numerous body of horfe 
 and foot, armed with bows and arrows, 
 lances, and other fuch weapons, with whom 
 our adventurer had many fkirmifhes, and 
 defeated great multitudes, by means of his 
 fire-arms, which had never before been 
 
 known
 
 1719- T -O P E K I N. 211 
 
 known in thefe parts* The poor Tartars 
 were as much amazed and terrified, at the 
 fight of the Ruffians and their arms,- as the 
 inhabitants of Mexico on the arrival of the 
 Spaniards in America, to which Siberia 
 may, in many refpedls, be compared. 
 
 Yarmak, finding his enemies daily more 
 numerous the nearer he approached the re- 
 fidence of the Tartar King ; having alfo 
 loft many of his men, in continual encoun- 
 ters, and fpent the greateft part of his am- 
 munition ; knowing, befides, of no place 
 of fafety, where he might pafs the winter, 
 which is both long and fevere in this quar- 
 ter ; at laft determined to retreat. He 
 therefore fteered his'courfe to the weft, up 
 the Tobol and Tur rivers. The furious 
 Tartars gave him no reft, but harafled him 
 perpetually from the banks. ,He himfelf 
 and few more efcaped, with a confiderable 
 booty, and returned to the village, where 
 they wintered the preceding year. The 
 inhabitants, on feeing the rich furs and o* 
 ther fpoils, gave them a welcome reception. 
 
 And
 
 212 AJOURNEY 1719. 
 
 And Yarmak did not forget to difpenfe his 
 favours liberally among thofe who had en- 
 tertained him in his diftrefs, when- he fled 
 from jurtice. 
 
 Our adventurer had now time to reflect 
 on his miferabie circumltances. He confir 
 -dered, that his lurking in thefe parts, tho* 
 remo'te from any town, could not be long 
 a fecret : To make another attempt againft 
 the Tartars with a handful of men, ill pro- 
 vided with arms and ammunition, might 
 1 perhaps be ruinous, and certainly unfuc- 
 cefsful. He therefore refolved to fubmit 
 himfelf to his-Majefty's clemency, in hopes 
 of obtaining a gracious pardon for himfelf 
 and his accomplices, on condition of point- 
 ing out the way to a rich and eafy conqueft 
 of a country which he had lately difcover- 
 ed. The propofal was made at court by a 
 friend, and was of too great importance to 
 be ne^U'dled. In (hort, Yatmak was 
 brought to Mofco, under a fafe conduct, 
 where he communicated the whole affair. 
 He begged his Majefty's pardon, andafked 
 
 a
 
 1719- T O P E K I N. 213 
 
 p. certain number of troops, which he pro- 
 mifed to lead to a glorious conqueft. His 
 Majefty granted him a pardon, approved of 
 the expedition, and gave immediate orders 
 for the troops to attend him. They march- 
 ed to Solikamfky, where they pafled the 
 winter in making preparations for the en- 
 terpnfe, which was to be undertaken in 
 the fpring. 
 
 During this interval, Yarmak behaved 
 with furprifing prudence and activity, and 
 difcovered himfelf to be a perfon of uncom- 
 mon genius. He collected fuch of his for- 
 mer followers as remained, and formed 
 them into a company, in whom he could 
 confide on all occafions. 
 
 At the proper feafon, the troops fet out 
 towards Siberia. On coming into the in- 
 habited part of the country, they found 
 many ftraggling parties of Tartars in arms, 
 ready to oppofe them, and a number of 
 boats upon the rivers, full of armed men. 
 The King of the Tartars himfelf was on 
 board one of thefe veflels. This expedition 
 
 was
 
 2i 4 AJOURNEY 1719, 
 
 was of fhort duration ; and, in the iflue, 
 fully anfwered the expectation of the Ruf- 
 fians. I cannot omit a few particulars of 
 the laft action. The Tartars in the boats, 
 being purfued by the Ruffians, a battle en- 
 fued on the river Irtifh. Yarmak obfer- 
 ving the King's barge, ordered his crew to 
 board her ; which he endeavouring to do 
 at the head of his men, jumped fliort, fell 
 into the river, and was drowned, to the 
 great grief of all his followers. Thus fell 
 poor Yarmak ! Notwithftanding this mif- 
 fortune, the Ruffians gained a complete 
 victory. The brave King of the Tartars 
 loft his life in the action. His fon, and 
 the reft of the royal family, were taken 
 prifoners, and fent to Mofco, where they 
 were honourably received by the Czar, and 
 treated according to their quality. The 
 prince had an extenfive property granted 
 him in Ruffia, which the family enjoys to 
 this day, together with the title of Sibirfky 
 Czarevitz or Prince of Siberia ; which, I 
 believe, is a more generous treatment of 
 
 the
 
 1719. TO P E K I N. 2IJ 
 
 the conquered than any of the mighty mo- 
 narchs of Peru or Mexico, or any of their 
 lineage, have experienced. 
 
 December nth, we left Verchaturia, in 
 deep fnow. The cold was exceflive, and 
 the Iky clear. 
 
 Next day, we came to a large village, 
 having a few of the Vogullitz Tartars in 
 the neighbourhood ; and, the 1 3th, arrived 
 at the town of Epantfhin. From Vercha- 
 turia to this place the country is moftly 
 covered with woods. About the villages 
 there are large plains, for corn or paflu- 
 rage. The cattle are in good condition. 
 The horfes, particularly, being of the Tar- 
 tar breed, are larger, and better fhaped, 
 than ordinary, and fit for any ufe. 
 
 Epantfhin is but a imall place, fortified 
 with a ditch and pallifades, and defended 
 by a few foldiers in garrifon. This place 
 is fometimes alarmed with incurfions of the 
 Tartars, called Koflatfhy-Orda, and Kara- 
 Kalpacks ; but the Ruffians have of late fo 
 fortified their frontiers, that thefe rovers 
 
 appear
 
 appear feldomer than formerly. Both thefe 
 tribes are Mahometans, live always in 
 tents, and fpread themfelves, with their 
 flocks, in the great clefert. Both are very 
 numerous, and own fubje&ion to different 
 chiefs, whom they call Batteer, which fig- 
 nifies a hero. Thefe are chofen by them- 
 felves, and are the mod famous among 
 them for their abilities in military exploits. 
 They are at continual war with the Kal- 
 mucks, who inhabit along the Volga, and 
 with all their other neighbours. They are 
 not able to (land againft regular troops ; 
 and, when attacked by them, retire into 
 the wide defert, with their families and 
 cattle, whither none, but people accuftom- 
 ed to their manner of life, can follow 
 them. 
 
 The country of. the Kara- Kal packs, or 
 Black-Caps, io called from a kind of caps 
 they commonly wear, turned up with 
 black lamb-fldns, lies to the fouth-weft, 
 towards the Volga. That of the KoiTatmy- 
 Orda extends to the fouth-eaft, as far as 
 
 the
 
 1719. TO P E K I N. 217 
 
 the river Irtifli. The courfe of this river 
 1 fhall have occafion to mention after- 
 wards. 
 
 The 1 4th, we came to a pretty large 
 town, called Tumen, fituated upon the 
 north bank of the river Tuma, from 
 whence the place takes its name. The 
 banks of the Tuma are high and fteep. 
 There is a very convenient wooden bridge 
 at this place. The Tuma has its fource fat- 
 to the weft, and, in its courfe, is augment- 
 ed by the Tura, and feveral other rivers. 
 It continues to run to the eaft, till meeting 
 with the Tobol, it lofes itfelf and name. 
 
 The country between Epantfhin and 
 Tumen begins to be more open, and better 
 peopled, than that weftward of thefe pla- 
 ces. For, betides the Ruffians, who make 
 the greateft part of the inhabitants, we 
 meet with feveral villages inhabited by the 
 defcendents of the ancient Mahometans, 
 who were natives of thefe places. Thefe 
 Tartars fubfift by agriculture, and pafs their 
 lives without care or difturbance, in the 
 * I; E e free
 
 i8 A JOURNEY 1719. 
 
 free exercife of their religion, and other 
 privileges. 
 
 Tumen is a pretty neat place, and well 
 fortified. The ftreets are fpacious, and the 
 houfes built in a ftraight line. The adja- 
 cent country is covered with fine woods, 
 interfperfed with villages, corn-fields, arid 
 pafturage ; and provifioris of all kinds are 
 very plentiful. The merchants of this place 
 have a confiderable trade in furs, particu- 
 larly the fkins of foxes and fquirrels j 
 which, indeed, are not fo valuable here as 
 they are to the eaftward. 
 
 Early on the ijth, we left this place, 
 keeping on our courfe along the banks of 
 the Tuma, till we arrived at the river To- 
 bol, which we crofled, and proceeded along 
 the eaftern bank, through a fine country, 
 and well peopled. Though the froft ftill 
 continued flrong, it was not near fo vio- 
 lent and piercing as about Solikamfky 5 
 which may proceed from the woods being 
 Cut down, and the country cultivated. On 
 the other fide of the river, indeed, the face 
 
 of
 
 T P E K I N. 419 
 
 of the country appeared flat and morafly, 
 abounding with tall and dark woods. 
 
 The 1 6th, about noon, we were in fight 
 of the city of Tobolfky, though diftant 
 from us about twenty Englifh miles. It 
 (lands upon a very high bank of the To- 
 bol. The walls are white, and the crofles 
 and cupolas of the churches guildec^, and 
 make a very fine appearance. About two 
 o'clock we arrived fafe at the city of To- 
 bolfky, the capital of this mighty pro- 
 vince, and the refidence of the governour. 
 We lodged in the broad-ftreet, leading to 
 the governour's palace, and the courts of 
 juftice. 
 
 We travelled between Tumen and To- 
 bolfky, about two hundred and fifty verft, 
 in the fpace of thirty hours. Sledges are 
 the moft fimple and convenient machines 
 for travelling on fnow that can be imagi- 
 ned. And the perfon in the fledge may 
 either fit, or lie along upon the couch, ac- 
 cording to his inclination, 
 
 CHAP.
 
 $20 A JOURNEY 1.719, 
 
 C HA P. II. 
 
 Occurrences at Tobolfky^ Obfervations* 
 on the Kalmucks, &c. and Jour- 
 ney continued to Tomfky. 
 
 TOBOLSKY is fituated in latitude fifty- 
 eight degrees forty minutes north, at 
 $he conflux of the Irtim and Tobol. From 
 this laft the city has its name. Both thefe 
 rivers are navigable for feveral hundred 
 miles above this place. The Irtim, after 
 receiving the Tobol, becomes a noble 
 flream, and difcharges itfelf into the Oby. 
 This fituation was chofen by the Ruffians, 
 both for its ftrength and beauty. Formerly 
 the Tartar princes had their abode at q. 
 
 place
 
 1719. 
 
 TO P E K I N. 
 
 place about thirty verft fouth from Tobol- 
 iky, which is now neglected and ruinous. 
 
 Toboliky is fortified with a ftrong brick- 
 wall, having fquare towers and baftions at 
 proper diftances, and is well furniflied with 
 military ftores. Within the town ftand the 
 governour's palace, courts of juftice, feve- 
 ral churches built of brick, particularly a 
 large cathedral, and the palace of the arch- 
 bifhop. From the walls you have a very 
 extenfive profpecl: of a fine country, efpe- 
 cially to the fouth. To the weft the land 
 is alfo flat, and overgrown with tall woods. 
 The inhabitants are chiefly Ruffians, of dif- 
 ferent profeffions ; many of them are mer- 
 chants, and very rich, by the profitable 
 trade they carry on to the borders of Chi- 
 na, and many places of their own country. 
 
 Thefe live moftly upon the hill. Under 
 the hill, in the fuburbs, along the banks of 
 the river, are feveral large ftreets, called 
 the Tartar- ftreets, occupied by the remains 
 of the ancient inhabitants of thefe parts. 
 Here, as at other places, thefe people enjoy 
 
 the
 
 A JOURNEY 1719; 
 
 the free exerclfe of their religion, and 
 the privileges of trade. They refemble, 
 in their perfons, religion, language, and 
 manners, the Tartars of Cazan and Aftra- 
 chan. Their houfes are very cleanly. They 
 are very courteous to ftrangers, and ef- 
 teemed honeft ; on which account they 
 get great credit in their commercial affairs. 
 Befides the fortification formerly mention- 
 ed about the town, the whole fuburbs are 
 furrounded with a ditch and pallifades. 
 
 When we were at Tobollky, Siberia was 
 fuperintended by Mr Petrof Solovoy, vicc- 
 governour, a perfon well acquainted with 
 the bufmefs of the government, and a Gap- 
 tain of the guards. The former governour, 
 Kneaz Gagarin, had incurred his Majefty's 
 difpleafure, and was recalled ; and his fuc- 
 ceflbr, Kneaz Alexie Michaylovitz Cher- 
 kafky, a nobleman worthy of fuch an im- 
 portant truft, was not yet arrived. 
 
 As, in moft other towns through which 
 we pafTed, we found here many Swedifh 
 pfficers of diftinclion. Among others,
 
 1719. T O P E K I N. 223 
 
 Monfieur Dittmar, formerly fecretary to 
 Charles XII. King of Sweden. He was a 
 native of Livonia, and equally efteemed 
 for his probity and capacity. He was much 
 refpe&ed by the late governour, who, in- 
 deed, was a friend to all thefe unfortunate 
 gentlemen. They were allowed to walk 
 about at large, a-hunting or fifhing, and 
 even permitted to travel to other places, to 
 vifit their countrymen. For my part, I 
 think the greateft favour his Majefty fhew- 
 ed thefe prifoners, was the cantoning them 
 in thefe parts, where they may live well at 
 a fmall expence, and enjoy all the liberty 
 that perfons in their circumftances can ex- 
 pect. 
 
 I cannot but obferve, that .the Swedifh 
 prifoners, difperfed in mofl of the towns in 
 this country, contributed not a little to the 
 civilizing the inhabitants of thefe fliftant 
 regions, as they were the means of intro- 
 ducing feveral ufeful arts, which were al- 
 xnoft unknown before their arrival. 
 
 Many
 
 A JOURNEY 1719, 
 
 Many of the officers, being gentlemen of 
 liberal education, the better to fupport 
 their tedious capitivity, devoted their time 
 to the ftudy of the more agreeable and en- 
 tertaining parts of fcience, particularly mu- 
 fic and painting ; wherein fome of them 
 attained to great perfe&ion. I was prefent 
 at feveral of their concerts, and was not a 
 little furprifed to find fuch harmony, and 
 variety of mufical inftruments, in this part 
 of the world. 
 
 They fometimes amufed themfelves with 
 teaching young gentlemen and ladies the 
 French and German languages, mufic$ 
 dancing, and other fimilar accomplifhrnents; 
 whereby they gained many friends among 
 the people of diftinction ; a circumftance, to 
 men in their fituation,both honourable and 
 ufeful. 
 
 In Tobolfky there are always about five 
 or fix thoufand regular troops, horfe and 
 foot, befides a number of irregulars. Thefe 
 troops, added to the natural ftrength of 
 the place, effectually fecure it from any 
 attacks of the neighbouring Tartars.
 
 1719. TO P E K I N. 225 
 
 The woods and fields about Tobolfky 
 are ftored with all kinds of game natural 
 to the climate ; fuch as the coq-limoge, 
 coq-bruiere, and gilinots ; the laft are a- 
 bout the fize of a partridge, their flefh is 
 white, and very agreeable. There is ano- 
 ther kind of thefe gilinots, fomewhat larger, 
 with rough feet, which, in the winter, 
 turn white as a dove. Alfo the common 
 partridge, which, on the approach of win- 
 ter, flies off to more temperate climates ; 
 wood-cocks, a great variety of fnipes, 
 which fly off in autumn, after having 
 hatched their young. As for water-fowl, 
 no country in the world can produce fuch 
 numbers, and variety ; they are alfo birds 
 of paflage. In my Perfian journal, I gave 
 an account of the vaft flocks of thefe fowls 
 on the fhores of the Cafpian Sea. 
 
 Here alfo you meet with feveral kinds 
 of fmall birds, about the fize of a lark, par- 
 ticularly thofe called fnow-birds. They come 
 to Siberia in vaft flocks in autumn, and re- 
 main till the fpring, when they difappear. 
 
 VOL. I. F f Many
 
 226 AJOURNEY 1719, 
 
 Many of them are white as fnow, fome 
 fpeckled, apd others all over brown. They 
 are reckoned a very fine and delicious difli. 
 
 I obferved another very pretty bird, a- 
 bout the fize of a thrufli, having beautiful 
 red and yellow feathers in the wings and 
 tail, with a tuft of brown feathers on its 
 head, which it raifes at pleafure. Thefe 
 are alfo birds of paflage ; and, as they 
 breed no where in Europe or Afia that I 
 know of, perhaps both thefe and the fnow- 
 birds may come to Siberia from the north- 
 ern parts of America. This conjecture 
 will appear not improbable, when it is con- 
 fidered, that thefe birds are of a hardy na- 
 ture, and the flight not io far as is generally 
 imagined. 
 
 In the woods are various kinds of wild 
 beafts ; fuch as bears, wolves, lynxes, fe- 
 veral forts of foxes, fquirrels, ermins, fa- 
 bles, martins, and rofio- macks, called feel- 
 frefs by the Germans. The furs are better 
 of their kinds than thofe of any other 
 country. The ermins commonly burrow- 
 in
 
 I 7 i9- TO P E K I N. 227 
 
 in the open fields, and are caught in traps 
 baited with a bit of flefh ; this is done on- 
 ly in the winter, when they are altogether 
 white, and the fur mod valuable. In fum- 
 mer moft of thefe animals turn brown, 
 when they are not killed, becaufe, at this 
 feafon, the fur is of little ufe. There are 
 alfo ottars in the rivers and lakes, whofe 
 fkins yield a confiderable profit. Indeed, 
 furs of all forts, in this country, are very 
 profitable. At prefent, few fables are caught 
 in this neighbourhood ; it is faid they fly 
 from fmoke, which, perhaps, is partly true; 
 yet I am apt to believe, that thefe poor a- 
 nimals are chafed away towards the north, 
 to the wild woods, on account of the high 
 value of their (kins. 
 
 The woods of Siberia abound alfo with 
 venifon of feveral forts ; as elk, rain- deer, 
 roe-buck, together with an incredible num- 
 ber of hares, which change their colour, 
 from brown in fummer to white in winter. 
 The hares are generally caught by the 
 country people in toils, more on account 
 
 of
 
 228 A JOURNEY 1719. 
 
 of their {kins than their ficfli, of which 
 they make but little ufe. The fkins are 
 bought by the merchants, and fent, in great 
 quantities to St Peterfburgh, and other 
 ports; in order to be exported to England, 
 Holland, and other countries, where they 
 are chiefly manufactured into hats. 
 
 Having defcribed the land animals, I 
 fhall now give fome account of the fifh. 
 In my opinion, there are few countries in 
 the world fo well watered, with fine navi- 
 gable rivers and lakes, as Siberia ; and few 
 rivers and lakes produce greater quantities, 
 or more variety, of excellent frefh water 
 fifh, than thofe in this country. For, be- 
 fides fturgeon, white- fifh, fterlet, and o- 
 thers, to be found in the Volga, and the 
 rivers in Ruflia, there are feveral kinds pe- 
 culiar to this part of the world ; particu- 
 larly the n^uchloon, about the fize of a 
 large carp, and much efteemed by perfons 
 of .delicate tafte. 
 
 Southward from Tcbolfky the foil is 
 fruitful, producing abundance of wheat, 
 
 rye,
 
 1719. TO P E K I N. 229 
 
 rye, barley, oats, and other grain. The 
 cattle alfo are very numerous, and in win- 
 ter are fed with hay. In a word, provi- 
 fions of all kinds are extremely reafonable. 
 From what I have faid, it will appear, that 
 Tobolfky is by no means fuch a difagreea- 
 ble place as is generally imagined. What- 
 ever the opinions of mankind may be, it 
 is the bufmefs of a tnaveller to defcribe pla- 
 ces and things without prejudice or partia- 
 lity, and exhibit them fairiy as they really 
 appear. This principle it fhall be my ftudy 
 to keep always in view. 
 
 Captain Tabar, a Swedifh officer, was at 
 this time writing a hiftory of Siberia. He 
 was a gentleman very capable for fuch a 
 performance ; and, if it fhall ever be pu- 
 blifhed, it cannot fail of giving great fatis- 
 faction to the curious. 
 
 Before I leave Tobolfky, it will not be 
 improper to give a fhort account of the fa- 
 mous river Irtiih, that paries this place. It 
 continues its courfe a little to the eaft- 
 ward of the north, in a ftrong but fmooth 
 
 current.
 
 230 A JOURNEY 1719. 
 
 current, vifiting feveral fmall towns and 
 villages, and receiving many lefler ftreams, 
 and a large river called Konda, running 
 eaftward, till it difcharges itfelf into the 
 Oby, at a town called Samarioffky-yamm, 
 about fix hundred verft below Tobolfky. 
 
 The Irtifh takes its rife from a great 
 lake, named Korzan, in a mountainous 
 country, about fifteen hundred verft to the 
 fouthward of Tobolfky. The country a- 
 bout this lake is inhabited by the Black 
 Kalmucks, a mighty and numerous people, 
 governed by a Prince called Kontayfha. 
 From thefe the Kalmucks on the Volga are 
 defcended. After the Irtifh hath run for 
 many miles through a hilly country cover- 
 ed with wood, it pafles through a fine fruit- 
 ful plain, inhabited by the Kalmucks, till it 
 comes to a houfe called Sedmy-palaty, or 
 the Sev^n Rooms, fituated to the right in 
 coming down the river. It is very furpri- 
 fmg to find fuch a regular edifice in the mid- 
 dle of a defert. Some of the Tartars fay 
 it was built by Tamerlane, called by the 
 
 Tartars
 
 ! 7 i9- TO P E K I N. 231 
 
 Tartars Temyr-ack-fack, or Lame-temyr ; 
 others by Gingeez-chan. The building, 
 according to the beft information I could 
 obtain, is of brick or ftone, well finifhed, 
 and continues dill entire. It confifts of 
 feven apartments under one roof, from 
 whence it has the name of the Seven Pa- 
 laces. Several of thefe rooms are rilled 
 with fcrolls of glazed paper, fairly written, 
 and many of them in gilt characters. Some 
 of the fcrolls are black, but the greateft 
 part white. The language in which they 
 are written is that of the Tongufts, or Kal- 
 mucks. While I was at Tobolfky, I met 
 with a foldier in the ftreet with a bundle 
 of thefe papers in his hand : He afked me 
 to buy them ; which I did for a fmall fum. 
 I kept them till my arrival in England, 
 when 1 diftri'outed them among my friends; 
 particularly to that learned antiquarian Sir 
 Hans Sloane, who valued them at a high 
 rate, and gave them a place in his celebra- 
 ted mufeum. 
 
 Two
 
 s 3 * AJOURNEY 
 
 Two of thefe fcrolls were fent, by order 
 of the Emperor Peter the Firft, to the 
 Royal Academy at Paris. The Academy 
 returned a tranflation, which I faw in the 
 rarity-chamber at St Peterfburgh. One of 
 them contained a commiffion to a lama or 
 prieft ; and the other a form of prayer to 
 the Deity. Whether this interpretation 
 may be depended on, I fhall not determine. 
 The Tartars efteem them all facred writings, 
 as appears from the care they take to pre- 
 ferve them. Perhaps they may contain 
 fome curious pieces of antiquity, particu- 
 larly of ancient hiftory. Above the Sed- 
 my-palaty, towards the fource of the Ir- 
 tifli, upon the hills and valleys, grows the 
 beft rhubarb in the world, without the leaft 
 culture. 
 
 Several days journey from the Palaces, 
 down the Irtifh, on the weftern bank, 
 ftands an old tower named Kalbazinfha- 
 bafhna, or the tower of Kalbazin. Below 
 this is the lake Yamifhoff, to the right, 
 where the Ruffians have built a fmall fort, 
 
 for
 
 1719. TO P E K I N. -233 
 
 for the conveniency of making and gather- 
 ing fait from that lake, great quantities 
 whereof are made by the fun ; it is brought 
 in barks down the river to Tobolfky, 
 and other places. This fort created fome 
 jealoufy to the Kontayfha ; he fent an am- 
 baffador to the governour of Siberia, re- 
 quefting to have it demolifhed ; but this 
 demand not being granted, the difference 
 came to an open rupture, the event of which 
 time muft difcover. 
 
 Defcending farther, you meet with ano- 
 ther fettlement of the Ruffians, called She- 
 lezinfky, from a rivulet of that name in 
 its neighbourhood. A little below Shele- 
 zinfky ftands Omufka, a confiderable town 
 which alfo derives its name from a river. 
 Both thefe places are fituated on the eaft- 
 ern bank of the Irtifh. You now pafs 
 fome inconfiderable places before you ar- 
 rive at Tara, a little town fituated on the 
 weftern bank, on the road leading from 
 Toboliky to Totnfky, through a country 
 
 VOL. I. G called
 
 234 A JOURNEY 1719=. 
 
 called Baraba, of which I fhall give fome 
 account as we proceed to the eaft. 
 
 Between Tara and Tobolfky are a few 
 fmall towns, and many villages, inhabited 
 by Mahometan Tartars. And the country 
 abounds with corn, cattle, and fine paftu- 
 rage. 
 
 I have now pointed out the courfe of 
 the Irtilh till it reaches Tobolfky, and from 
 thence till it . empties itfelf into the river 
 Oby. I have nothing further to remark 
 concerning Tobolfky and the country a- 
 round it, and fhould therefore now purfue 
 our journey to the eaftward ; but, before 
 I leave this place, I imagine it will not be 
 improper to fubjoin a few more particulars 
 relative to the Kontayfha, Prince of the 
 Kalmucks, whom I formerly mentioned. 
 I am the more inclined to do this, as I can 
 entirely depend on my intelligence, having 
 procured it from perfons who have been in 
 that country, and feen this Prince ; but 
 particularly from an ingenious and pene- 
 trating gentleman, who fills a public office 
 
 in
 
 1719- TO P E K I N. 
 
 in this place, and was employed in feveral 
 meilages to him from the late governour of 
 Siberia. 
 
 The territories of this Prince are bound- 
 ed by three of the moft potent empires in 
 the world ; on the north by Ruffia, by 
 China on the earl, and by the country of 
 the Great Mogul to the fouth. From the 
 two firft he is feparated by defert plains, 
 and from the third by almoft impaffable 
 mountains. To the fouth-weft his fron- 
 tiers reach near to Bucharia. The Kon- 
 tayfha is a very powerful Prince, and able 
 to bring into the field, at a fhort warning, 
 an hundred thoufand horfemen, who are all 
 of them able-bodied men, well mounted, 
 and armed with bows and arrows, lances and 
 fabres. This is a greater number of horle 
 than any Prince that I know can inufter, 
 except his Ruffian Majefty, and the Em- 
 peror of China. Thefe Tartars live in tents 
 all the year, removing from place to place, 
 as called by neceffity or inclination. This 
 is the moft ancient and pleafant manner of 
 
 life.
 
 236 A JOURNEY 1719. 
 
 life. It is entertaining to hear them com- 
 miferate thofe who are confined to one 
 place of abode, and obliged to fupport them* 
 felves by labour, which they reckon the 
 greateft flavery. 
 
 The Kontayfha has always fome thou- 
 fands of his fubjecls encamped near him- 
 felf, who treat him with great veneration 
 and refped. And, in juftice to him, it muft 
 be confefled, that he is as attentive to the 
 imerefts of his people ; and as affiduous in 
 the adminiftration of juftice, in particular, 
 as if they were his own children. 
 
 The Kalmucks are not fuch favage peo- 
 ple as they are generally reprefented ; for 
 I am informed, a perfon may travel among 
 them with greater fafety, both to his per- 
 fon and effects, than in many other coun- 
 tries. 
 
 The Kontayfha received the deputies 
 from the governour of Siberia, like ambaf- 
 fadors from foreign Princes, and treated 
 them accordingly. 'This flicws vvh ,t high 
 refpedl thefe Eaflern Princes entertain for 
 
 his
 
 1719. TO P E K I N. 237 
 
 his Czarifli Majefty, when the governour 
 of Siberia is regarded as a fovereign. The 
 ceremony on thefe occafions was as follows. 
 The deputy with his fervants were ad- 
 mitted into the tent, where the Kontayfha 
 fat with his queen and feveral children a- 
 bout him. He defired all of them to fit 
 down on carpets or mats ; for the Kal- 
 mucks, like moft Afiatics, ufe no chairs. 
 They were entertained with tea before din- 
 ner ; and, after it, the Kontaylha difmifled 
 the deputy in a friendly manner, telling 
 him, he would fend for him next day to 
 receive an anfwer to the governour's letter, 
 which he punctually performed. This 
 anfwer was exprefled in very plain and 
 concife terms. Thefe Tartars in general 
 write with brevity and perfpicuity. I have 
 feen feveral of their letters tranflated, which 
 pleafed me extremely, as they contained 
 no tedious preambles, nor difgui'Ung repe- 
 titions, which ferve only to perplex the 
 reader. 
 
 The
 
 238 A JOURNEY 1719. 
 
 The Emperor of China was fome time 
 ago engaged in a war with the Kontayfha, 
 about fome frontier towns, of which the 
 latter took pofleffion, and maintained his 
 claim with a ftrong army. The Emperor 
 fent againft him an army of three hundred 
 thoufand men, under the command of his 
 fourteenth fon, who is reckoned the beft 
 general of all his children. Notwithftan- 
 ding their fuperiority in numbers, the Kon- 
 tayfha defeated the Chinefe in feveral ac- 
 tions. The Emperor, at laft, thought it 
 beft to accommodate the difference, and a 
 peace was concluded, to the fatisfadion of 
 both parties. 
 
 It muft be obferved, that the Chinefe, 
 being obliged to undertake a long and dif- 
 ficult march, through a defert and barren 
 country, lying weftward of the long wall, 
 being alfo incumbered with artillery and 
 heavy carriages, containing provifions for 
 the whole army during their march, had 
 their force greatly diminifhed before they 
 reached the enemy. The Kontayfha, on 
 
 the
 
 1719- T P E K I. N. 239 
 
 the other hand, having intelligence of the 
 great army coming againft him, waited pa- 
 tiently on his own frontiers till the enemy 
 was within a few days march of his camp, 
 when he fent out detachments of light 
 horfe, to fet fire to the grafs, and lay wafte 
 the country. He alfo diftracled them, day 
 and night, with repeated alarms, which, 
 together with want of provifions, obliged 
 them to retire with confiderable lofs. 
 
 This method of carrying on war, by 
 wafting the country, is very ancient among 
 the Tartars, and pra&ifed by all of them 
 from the Danube eaftward. This circum- 
 ftance renders them a dreadful enemy to 
 regular troops, who muft thereby b? de- 
 prived of all fubfiftence, while the Tartars, 
 having always many fpare horfes to kill and 
 eat, are at no lofs for provifions. 
 
 I have only to add, that the Kontayflia 
 muft be the fame prince who, in our Eu- 
 ropean maps, is generally cal'ed the Great 
 Cham of Tartary. As no Europeans tra- 
 vel through that country, thefe maps muft 
 
 be
 
 240 A JOURNEY i 720 . 
 
 be very erroneous. It is, however, to be 
 expected, that the Ruffians will in time 
 make a more complete difcovery of the 
 eaftern parts of Afia. 
 
 Our baggage did not arrive at ToboHky 
 till the 23d of December. The people re- 
 frefhed themfelves till the 27th, when they 
 again fet out, taking the road along the Ir- 
 tifh to Tara. The ambaffador and his re- 
 tinue remained, to pafs the reft of the holi- 
 days. 
 
 January 9th, 1720, we proceeded to- 
 wards Tara. We pafled through many 
 Tartar villages, and at night lodged in one 
 of their little huts, and warmed ourfelves 
 at a good fire on the hearth. Thefe houfea 
 confift generally of one or two rooms, ac- 
 cording to the ability of the landlord. Near 
 to the hearth is fixed an iron-kettle, to 
 drefs the victuals. In one end of the a- 
 paitment is placed a bench, about eighteen 
 inches high, and fix feet broad, covered 
 with mats, or fkins of wild beafts, upon 
 
 which
 
 1720. TO P K I N. 241 
 
 which all the family fit by day, and fleerj 
 in the night. The walls are built of wood 
 and mofs, confifting of large beams, laid 
 one above another, with a layer of mofs 
 
 between every two beams. All the roofs 
 
 I 
 
 are raifed. A fquare hole is cut out for a 
 window, and, to fupply the want of glafsj 
 a piece of ice is formed to fit the place ex- 
 actly, which lets in a good light. Two or 
 three pieces will laft the whole winter; 
 Thefe Tartars are very neat and cleanly, 
 both in their perfons and houfes. They 
 life no ftoves, as the Ruffians do. Near 
 the houfe there is commonly a fhade fof 
 the cattle. 
 
 We continued our journey along the 
 banks of the Irtim, having the river to th6 
 right or left, as the road lay from one Tar- 
 tar village to another. 
 
 The i jth, we reached Tara, a fmall 
 town, reckoned about five hundred verft 
 from Tobolfky. In all this road we did 
 not meet with a Ruffian village, except a 
 
 VOL. I. H h fmall
 
 242 A JOURNEY 1720. 
 
 fmall one near Tara. The country abounds 
 with woods, corn-fields, and fine pafturage, 
 which appeared fufficiently from the quan- 
 tities of hay, and the good condition of the 
 cattle, though the face of the country was 
 covered with deep fnow. We found the 
 air at Tara much milder than at any place 
 fmce we left Kazan. 
 
 Tara is fituated on the Irtifh, and forti- 
 fied with a deep ditch, ftrong palifades, and 
 wooden towers, fufficient to defend it a- 
 gainft the fudden attacks of the Tartars, 
 called KofTatlhy- orda, who inhabit weft- 
 ward of the Irtifli, and are very trouble- 
 fome neighbours. 
 
 Here we laid in provifions for our jour- 
 ney over the Baraba, which fignifies, in the 
 Tartar language, a marfhy plain. Its in- 
 habitants are a mixture of different Tartar 
 tribes, called Barabintzy, from the name of 
 the country in which they live. They are a 
 poor milerable people, being treated as fub- 
 jects both by the Emperor and the Contay- 
 
 fha,
 
 1720. TO P E K I N. 243 
 
 fha, and obliged to pay a tribute, in furs 
 and {kins of wild beads to each. They 
 have no grain nor cattle of any kind, 
 except a few rain-deer, and fubfift by hunt- 
 ing and fifhing. What fifh they confume 
 not in the fummer are dried and fmoked 
 for their winter provifions. They are part- 
 ]y of the Mahometan, and partly of the 
 Kalmuck religion ; but this difference cau- 
 fes no difputes. 
 
 It is generally reckoned, that more rob- 
 beries are committed in Baraba than in 
 any country on the road to China ; not 
 by the natives, for they are very honeft and 
 hofpitable, but by the Kalmucks, who come 
 to collect tribute for the Kontay(ha, who 
 fometimes pick up travellers, and carry 
 them off, with all their effects. It was faid, 
 that a ftrong party of them, having intel- 
 ligence that the ambafiador was to pafs 
 that way, waited to intercept him ; on 
 which account, he took thirty dragoons 
 and fome Coflacks, from the garrifon of 
 Tobolfky, to efcort him to Tomfky ; which 
 
 was
 
 1244 A JOURNEY 
 
 was a fufficient guard againft any robbers 
 who might attack us ; and he knew the 
 Kontayfha was too polite a prince to au- 
 thorife his fubjeds to moleft any foreign 
 minifter who had done him no injury, not- 
 withftanding the differences that fubfifted 
 between him and his Gzarifh Majefty. 
 
 Our baggage having waited at Tara till 
 our arrival, we left that place on the i8th ; 
 and next day came to a large Ruffian vil- 
 lage, fixty verft from Tara, and the laft in- 
 habited by Ruffians, till you pafs the Bara- 
 ba, and come to the river Oby. 
 
 In the places through which we pafTed, 
 the ambafTador fent for all the hunters and 
 fportfmen, that he might inquire what 
 kinds of game and wild beafts were in 
 ! their neighbourhood. Hunting is the em- 
 ployment of moft of the young fellows in 
 this country, and is very profitable, as they 
 fell the furs to great advantage. We found 
 that this place produced great plenty, both 
 of game and wild beafts, but few fables. In 
 the fpring, a number of elks and flags come 
 
 hither.
 
 TO P E K I N. 
 
 hither, from the fouth ; many of which 
 are killed by the inhabitants, both .on Ac- 
 count of their flefh and their hides. What 
 of the flefh is not confumed frefh, they fait. 
 The hides are very large, and are drefled 
 into excellent buff. The huntfinan, having 
 found the track of a flag upon the fnow, 
 purfues it upon his fnow fhoes, with his 
 bow and arrows, and little dog, till the ani- 
 mal is quite fatigued ; for, the fnow on the 
 furface being melted by the heat of the 
 fun, and congealed at night by the froft, 
 but not ftrong enough to bear the weight 
 of fuch an animal, he finks deep at every 
 ftep, and the fharp ice cuts his ancles, and 
 lames him ; fo that he becomes an eafy 
 prey to the hunter. 
 
 One of thefe hunters told me the follow- 
 ing ftory, which was confirmed by feveral 
 of his neighbours : That, in the year 1713, 
 in the month of March, being out a hunt- 
 ing, he difcovered the tradi of a flag, which 
 he puifued ; at overtaking the animal, he 
 was fomewhat ftartlecl, on obferving it had 
 
 only
 
 246 A JOURNEY 1720; 
 
 only one horn, ftuck in the middle of its 
 forehead. Being near this village, he drove 
 it home, and fhowed it, to the great admi- 
 ration of the fpectators. He afterwards 
 killed it, and eat the flefh, and fold the 
 horn to a comb- maker in the town of Ta- 
 ra for ten alteens, about fifteen pence Ster- 
 ling. I inquired carefully about the fhape 
 and fize of this unicorn, as I fhall call it, 
 and was told it exactly refembled a flag. 
 The horn was of a brownifh colour, about 
 one archeen, or twenty-eight inches long, 
 and twifted from the root till within a fin- 
 ger's length of the top, where it was divi- 
 ded, like a fork, into two points very 
 fharp. 
 
 The 1 9th, we entered the Baraba, and 
 continued travelling through it for ten 
 days, when we came to a large Ruffian vil- 
 lage called Tzaufky Oftroguc, from a ri- 
 vulet of that name, which difcharges itfelf 
 into the Oby, a little diftance eaftward 
 from this place. Here is a fmall fort, fur- 
 Bounded with a ditch and pallifades, mount- 
 ed
 
 1720. TO P E K I N. 247 
 
 ed with a few cannon, and garrifoned by 
 fome militia of the country, in order to 
 prevent the incurfions of the Kalmucks. 
 "We ftaid a day at this place, to refrefh 
 ourfelves, and having changed horfes, pro- 
 ceeded towards Tomfky. 
 
 Baraba is really what its name fignifies, 
 an extenflve marfhy plain. It is generally 
 full of lakes, and marfhy grounds, over- 
 grown with tall woods of afpin, alder, wil- 
 lows, and other aquatics ; particularly many 
 large birch-trees, having their bark as white 
 and fmooth as paper. The lakes abound 
 with various kinds of fifties, fuch as pikes, 
 perches, breams, eels, and particularly a 
 fim called karrafs, of an uncommon big- 
 nefs, and very fat. Thefe the inhabitants 
 dry, in fummer, for winter provifions, 
 which are all the food to be found among 
 them. I have eat of it often, and thought 
 it not difagreeable. In winter, they ufe 
 melted fnow for water. They are very 
 hofpitable ; and defire nothing, in return 
 
 of
 
 64* A JOURNEY 1720* 
 
 of their civilities, but a little tobacco to 
 fmoke^ and a dram of brandy, of which 
 they are very fond. The drefs, both of 
 men and women, confifts of long coats of 
 flieep-ikins, which they get from the Ruf- 
 fians and Kalmucks, in exchange for more 
 valuable furs. As they wear no other ap- 
 parel, nor even fhirts, they are very nafty* 
 Their fiuts are moft miferable habitations, 
 and funk about one-half under ground. 
 We were glad, however, to find them, as a 
 baiting place, in fuch a cold feafon. 
 
 The Barabintzy, like moft of the ancient 
 natives of Siberia, have many conjurers a- 
 mong them, whom they call Shamans, and 
 fometimes priefts. Many of The female 
 fex alfo alTume this character. The ma- 
 mans are held in great efteem by the peo- 
 ple ; they pretend to correfpondence with 
 the fhaytan, or devil ; by whom, they fay* 
 they are informed of all pad and future e- 
 vents, at any diftance of time or place. 
 Our ambaflador refolved to inquire ftridtly 
 
 into
 
 1720. 
 
 TO P E K I N. 
 
 into the truth of many ftrange ftories, ge- 
 nerally believed, concerning the fhamans, 
 and fent for alb of fame in that way in the 
 places through which we pafled. 
 
 In Baraba, we went to vifit a famous 
 woman of this character. When we en- 
 tered her houfe, fhe continued bufy about 
 her domeftic affairs, without almoft taking 
 any notice of her guefts. However, after 
 fhe had fmoked a pipe of tobacco, and 
 drunk a dram of brandy, fhe began to be 
 more cheerful. Our people afked her fome 
 trifling questions about their friends ; but 
 fhe pretended to be quite ignorant, till fhe 
 got more tobacco, and fome inconfiderable 
 prefents, when fhe v began to collecl: her 
 conjuring tools. Firft, fhe brought the 
 fhaytan ; which is nothing but a piece of 
 wood, wherein is cut fomething refembling 
 a human head, adorned with many filk and 
 woollen rags, of various colours ; then a 
 fmall drum, about a foot diameter, to which 
 were fixed many brafs and iron rings, and 
 VOL. I. I i hung
 
 A JOURNEY 1720, 
 
 hung round alfo with rags. She now be- 
 gan a difmal tune, keeping time with the 
 drum, which fhe beat with a flick for that 
 purpofe. Several of her neighbours, whom 
 fhe had previously called to her afliftance, 
 joined in the chorus. During this fcene, 
 which lafted about a quarter of an hour, 
 {he kept the fhaytan, or image, clofe by 
 herfelf, ftuck up in a corner. The charm 
 being now finifhed, fhe defired us to put 
 our queftions. Her anfwers were deliver- 
 ed very artfully, and with as much obfcu- 
 rity and ambiguity, as they could have 
 been given by any oracle. She was a 
 young woman, and very handfome. 
 
 On the 29th of January, we reached the 
 Oby, which we crofied on the ice, and 
 entered a country pretty well inhabited 
 by Ruffians, where we found provifions, 
 and frefh horfes, as often as we wanted 
 them. The country is generally covered 
 with woods, except about the villages, 
 where are fine corn-fields, and good paf- 
 ture grounds. Our courfe lay a little tq 
 
 the
 
 t72b. T O P E K I N. 251 
 
 the northward of the eaft of from Tzaufky 
 Oftrogue. 
 
 February 4th, we arrived fafe at the 
 town of Tomfky, fo called from the noble 
 river Tomm, upon the eaftern bank of 
 which it ftands. 
 
 CHAP,
 
 A JOURNEY 1720, 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 Occurrences at Tomjky ; obfervatlons 
 on the T%ulimm Tartars^ &c. 
 and journey continued to Elimfky. 
 
 THE citadel of Tomfky is fituated on 
 an eminence, and contains the com- 
 mandant's houfe, public offices, and bar- 
 racks for the garrifon. The fortifications, 
 like moft others in this country, are of 
 wood. The town (lands under the hill, 
 along the banks of the river Tomm. The 
 country about this place is pleafant and 
 fruitful. From the top of the hill you 
 have a very extenfive view every way, ex- 
 cept
 
 I 7 20. TO P E K I N. 253 
 
 cept to the fouth, where it is interrupted 
 by hills. Beyond thefe hills there is a 
 large, dry, and open plain, which ftretches 
 a great way fouthward. 
 
 About eight or ten days journey from 
 Tomfky, in this plain, are found many 
 tombs, and burying places of ancient he- 
 roes, who, in all probability, fell in battle. 
 Thefe tombs are eafily diftinguiftied by the 
 mounds of earth and ftones raifed upon 
 them. When, or by whom thefe battles 
 were fought, fo far to the -northward, is 
 uncertain. 1 was informed by the Tartars 
 in the Baraba, .that Tamerlane, or Timyr- 
 ack-fack, as they call him, had many en- 
 gagements in that country with the Kal- 
 mucks, whom he in vain endeavoured to 
 conquer. Many perfons go from Tomfky 
 and other parts every fummer to thefe 
 graves, which they dig up, and find, among 
 the afties of the dead, confiderable quanti- 
 ties of gold, filver, brafs, and fome preci- 
 ous ftones ; but particularly hilts of fwords 
 and armour. They find alfo ornaments of 
 
 faddles
 
 AJOURNEY ,72-. 
 
 faddles and bridles, and other trappings for 
 horfes ; and even the bones of horfes, and 
 fometimes thofe of elephants. Whence it 
 appears, that when any general or perfon 
 of diftin&ion was interred, all his arms, his 
 favourite horfe and fervant, were buried 
 with him in the fame grave : This cuftom 
 prevails to this day among the Kalmucks 
 and other Tartars, and feems to be of great 
 antiquity. It appears from the number of 
 graves, that many thoufands muft have 
 fallen on thefe plains ; for the people have 
 continued to dig for fuch treafure many 
 years* and ftill find it unexhaufted. They 
 are fometimes indeed interrupted, and rob- 
 bed of all their booty, by parties of the 
 Kalmucks, who abhor the diflurbing the 
 afhes of the dead. 
 
 I have feen feveral pieces of armour, 
 and other curiofities, that were dug out of 
 thefe tombs, particularly an armed man on 
 horfeback, caft in brafs, of no mean defign 
 nor workmanfhip ; alfo figures of deer, 
 caft in pure gold, which were fplit through 
 the
 
 TO P E K I N. 255 
 
 the middle, and had fome fmali holes in 
 them, as intended for ornaments to a qui- 
 ver, or the furniture of a horfe. 
 
 While we were at Tomfky, one of thefe 
 grave-diggers told me, that once they light- 
 ed on an arched vault, where they found 
 the remains of a man, with his bow, ar- 
 rows, lance, and other arms, lying together 
 on a filver table. On touching the body 
 it fell to duft. The value of the table and 
 arms was very confiderable. 
 
 The country about the fource of the ri- 
 ver Tomm, near which thefe tombs are, is 
 very fruitful and pleafant. At the fource 
 of the Tomm the Ruffians have a fmall 
 town called Kuznetfky. This river is 
 formed by the Kondoma, and many lefler 
 rivers ; all which run to the north. 
 
 In the* hills above Kuznetfky, there had 
 lately been difcovered rich mines of copper, 
 and fome of filver ; which, fince I was in 
 this country, have been greatly improved. 
 
 On the hills, and in the woods near this 
 place, are many forts of wild beafts, parti- 
 cularly
 
 A JOURNEY 1720. 
 
 cularly the urus, or uhr-ox, one of the 
 fierceft animals the world produces, and 
 exceeding, in fize and ftrength, all the 
 horned fpecies. Their force and agility is 
 fuch, that no wolf, bear, nor tiger, dare to 
 engage with them. Thefe animals are 
 found in the woods o/ Poland, and fome 
 other parts of Europe. As they are well 
 known I need not defcribe them. 
 
 In the fame woods is found another fpe- 
 cies of oxen, called bubul by the Tartars ; 
 it is, not fo big as the urus ; its body and 
 limbs are very handfome ; it has a high 
 fhoulder and a flowing tail, with long hail- 
 growing from the rump to the extremity, 
 like that of a horfe. Thofe I faw wer*e 
 tame, and as tractable as other cattle. Here 
 are alfo wild affes. I have feen many of 
 their {kins. They have, in all refpecls, the 
 head, tail, and hoofs of an ordinary afs ; 
 but their hair is waved, white and brown, 
 like that of a tiger. 
 
 There is, befides, a number of wild hor- 
 fes, of a chefnut- colour, which cannot be 
 
 tamed,
 
 1720. TO P E K I N. 257 
 
 tamed, though they are catched when foals* 
 Thefe horfes differ nothing from the com- 
 mon kind in fhape, but are the moft watch- 
 ful creatures alive. One of them waits al- 
 ways on the heights to give warning to 
 the reft, and, upon the leaft approach of 
 danger, runs to the herd, making all the 
 noife it can ; upon which all of them fly- 
 away, like fo many deer. The ftallion 
 drives up the rear, neighing, biting and 
 kicking thofe who do not run faft enough. 
 Notwithftanding this wonderful fagacity, 
 thefe animals are often furprifed by the 
 Kalmucks, who ride in among them, well 
 mounted on fwift horfes, and kill them, 
 with broad lances. Their flefh they efteern 
 excellent food, and ufe their fkins to fleep 
 upon inftead of couches. Thefe are the 
 animals peculiar to this part of the coun- 
 try ; and, befides thefe, there are many- 
 more common to this place with the reft 
 of Siberia. 
 
 The river Tomm, having parted Kuz- 
 
 netfky, Tomfky, and feveral other towns 
 
 VOL. I. K k of
 
 258 A JOURNEY 1729- 
 
 of lefs note, empties itfelf into the Oby, at 
 a place called Nikolfky, about an hundred 
 yerft below Torafky, in a country over- 
 grown with thick woods. Here the Tomm 
 lofes its name, and makes a great addition 
 to the Oby, which now commences a 
 mighty ftream. 
 
 The Tomm abounds with variety of fine 
 fifh ; fuch as fturgeon, fterlet, muchfoon, 
 and the largeft and beft quabs, called ia 
 French guion, that I have any where ieen. 
 The method of catching thefe fiih is by 
 planting pales acrofs the river, in which 
 there is left one narrow opening for the 
 fifties to pafs through. Above this open- 
 ing a hole is cut in the ice, and near it is 
 placed a fire upon fome flones laid for that 
 purpofe. The fiih, on feeing the light of 
 the fire, flops a moment in its pafiage ; 
 and, at this inftant, the fifherman flrikes it 
 with a fpear through the hole in the ice. 
 This exercife requires great quicknefs, for 
 the fifh is gone in a trice. I killed feveral 
 of them myfelf. 
 
 Thus,
 
 . f O P E K I N. 259 
 
 Thus, having made a fhort excurfion up 
 and down the Tomm, and given a brief 
 defcription of the country adjacent, I re- 
 turn again to Tomfky. 
 
 Tomfky is a good market for furs of all 
 forts ; but particularly of fables, black and 
 red foxes, ermins, and fquirrels. The 
 fquirrels called Teleutfky, from the name 
 of the diftrid: where they are caught, are 
 reckoned the beft of that fpecies. They 
 have a blackifli ftripe down their back. 
 
 Befides the common fquirrel, there is 
 another fpecies found here called the flying 
 fquiirel. There is little peculiar in its 
 fhape or fize, only it has, at the upper joint 
 
 ! of the thigh of the fore-leg, a fmall mem- 
 brane, ftretching to the fhoulder, fome- 
 what like the wing of a bat, which it ex- 
 tends at pleafure, and is thereby enabled to 
 fpring much farther, from tree to tree, 
 than it could do without the help of thefe 
 wings. Both the ermins and fquirrels are: 
 caught only in winter, becaufe in fummer 
 
 their 1
 
 A JOURNEY 1720. 
 
 their fur is quite brown, fhort, and of little 
 ufe. 
 
 We waited fome days at Tomfky for 
 the arrival of our baggage. Here we found 
 feveral Swedifh officers, who had good 
 quarters in a plentiful though diftant 
 place. After our people had refrefhed 
 themfelves for two days, they fet out again 
 on the road to Yenifeyfky. 
 
 During our abode in Tomfky, we di- 
 verted ourfelves with fifhing and hunting. 
 We were prefent alfo at feveral concerts of 
 mufic, performed by the Swedifh officers, 
 at Mr Kofloff's, commandant of the place. 
 Thefe gentlemen were not lefs expert in 
 touching their inftruments than their com- 
 panions at Tobolfky. Mr Kofloff is a 
 good-natured and chearful gentleman, and 
 treats thefe officers with great humanity. 
 They had along with them a Swedifh par- 
 fon, Mr Veftadius, a man of genius and 
 learning. 
 
 The Qth, we were entertained at the 
 commandant's, where were affembled fome 
 
 hundreds
 
 TO P E K I N. 
 
 hundreds of his CofTacks, or light horfe, 
 armed with bows and arrows. After go- 
 ing through their ufual exercife, they 
 fhowed their dexterity in (hooting on 
 horfeback at full fpeed. They ereded 
 a pole for a mark in an open field, and 
 pafling it, at full gallop, let fly their ar- 
 rows, and foon fplit it all to fhivers. 
 
 The 1 2th, about midnight, we went into 
 our fledges, and fet out on our journey to- 
 wards Yenifeyfky. For the two following 
 days, we had tolerably good roads, lying 
 through a pretty fine country, inhabited by 
 Ruffians. The villages are but thinly feat- 
 tered, yet fufficiently near one another to 
 afford provifions and frefh horfes. 
 
 On the 1 4th, we reached a large navi- 
 gable river, called Tzulimm. We went up 
 this river upon the ice. We met with nei- 
 ther houfe nor inhabitant for the fpace of 
 fix days. We could get no frefh horfes, 
 and were obliged to carry both provifions 
 and forage along with us, which made this 
 part of the road very tedious. During all 
 
 this
 
 262 A JOURNEY 1726. 
 
 this time, we had no where to warm our- 
 felves, or drefs our vi'cluals, but in the thick 
 overgrown woods, which occupy both 
 fides of the river. There is great plenty 
 of fallen trees in thefe woods, of which 
 we made large fires. The trees are chiefly 
 pitch fir, rifing like a pyramid, with long 
 fpreading branches hanging to the ground, 
 which render thele woods almoft impaf- 
 fable to man or beaft. We frequently fet 
 fire to the mofs and dried fibres of thefe 
 nrs. In the fpace of a minute the fire 
 mounts to the top of the tree, and has a 
 very pretty effed. The kindling fo many 
 fires warmed all the air around. 
 
 In fummer, the banks of this river are 
 inhabited by a tribe of Tartars, called by 
 the Ruffians Tzulimmzy, from the name 
 of the river, who live by fiihing and hunt- 
 ing. We found feveral of their empty 
 huts as we went along. In autumn, thefe 
 people retire from this inhofpitable place 
 towards the fouth, near to towns and vil- 
 lages, where they can find fubfiftence. 
 
 The
 
 I 7 2o. 
 
 TO P E K I N. 
 
 The 2Oth, we arrived at a Ruffian vil- 
 lage, called Meletfky Oftrogue, where we 
 {laid a day to refrefh ourielves and horfes. 
 In the neighbourhood of this place, we 
 found many huts of the Tzulimm Tartars, 
 who feem to be a different race from all 
 of that name i have yet mentioned. Their 
 complexion indeed is fwarthy, like that of 
 moft of the other defcendents of the ancient 
 natives of Siberia ; but 1 have feen many 
 of them having white fpots on their {kins, 
 from head to foot, of various figures and 
 iizes. Many imagine thefe fpots natural 
 to the people ; but J. am rather inclined to 
 believe they proceed from their conftant 
 diet of ftm and other animal food, without 
 bread. This, of courfe, creates a fcorbutic 
 habit of body, which often breaks out in 
 infants; and the fears falling off, leave that 
 part of the fkin as if it had been fcalded, 
 which never recovers its natural colour. I 
 have however feen feveral children with 
 fpots, who feemed healthy. 
 
 Tfce
 
 264 A JOURNEY 1720. 
 
 The Tzulimms, like other Tartars, live 
 in huts half-funk under ground. They 
 have a fire in the middle, with a hole at 
 the top to let out the fmoke, and benches 
 round the fire, to fit or lie upon. This 
 feems to be the common method of living 
 among all the northern nations, from Lap- 
 land, eaftward, to the Japanefe ocean. 
 
 The Tzulimms fpeak a barbarous lan- 
 guage, compofed of words from many o- 
 ther languages. Some of our people, who 
 fpoke Turkilh, told me, they had many 
 Arabic words, which they underftood. 
 They are poor, miferable, and ignorant 
 heathens. The archbimop of Tobolfky, 
 in perfon, came lately hither, and baptifed 
 fome hundreds of them, who were inclined 
 to embrace the Chriftian faith. As they 
 are a well difpofed and harmlefs people, 
 probably in a fhort time they may be all 
 converted. 
 
 The river Tzulimm has its fource about 
 three hundred verft above Meletfky Oftro- 
 gue ; from this place it continues its courfe 
 
 to
 
 1720. TO P E K I N. 265 
 
 to the northward, till it meets with the 
 river Oby, at a place called Shabannfky 
 Oftrogue. Oftrogue, in the Ruffian lan- 
 guage, fignifies a ftrong pallifade, inclofing 
 a certain piece of ground. On the firft fet- 
 tlements made by the Ruffians in ;hefe 
 parts, fuch inclofures were neceiTary to pre- 
 vent any furprife from the inhabitants. 
 
 The 2 1 ft, early in the morning, we left 
 Meletfky, and travelled through thick 
 woods, along narrow roads. Next day, 
 we came to a fmall Ruffian village, called 
 Melay-keat ; where we found our baggage, 
 for the firft time fince we quitted Tomfky. 
 Near this place the river Keat has its fource; 
 and runs towards the weft, till it meets with 
 the Oby. Having changed horfes at Me- 
 lay-keat, we left our baggage, and proceed- 
 ed on our journey. 
 
 On the evening of the 22d, we came to 
 a zimovey, where we halted a little, to re- 
 frefh ourfelves and bait our horfes. A zi- 
 movey is a houfe or two, built in a place at 
 a great diftance from any town or village, 
 
 VOL. I. L 1 for
 
 266 A JOURNEY 1720. 
 
 for the convenience of travellers ; and is a 
 fort of inn, where you generally find a 
 warm room, frefh bread, and a wholefome 
 and agreeable liquor, called quafs, made of 
 malt, or rye-meal, fteeped and fermented; 
 with hay and oats, at eafy rates. 
 
 From this place we travelled to Beloy, a 
 large village, where we changed horfes, and 
 proceeded. From hence to Yenifeyiky the 
 country is well cultivated. Upon the road 
 are many Rufs villages, where we got frefh 
 horfes as often as we pleafed, without halt- 
 ing ten minutes. Thus we continued tra- 
 velling, day and night, till we arrived, on 
 the 23d, at the town of Yenifeyfky, where 
 we had a friendly reception, and good en- 
 tertainment, from the commandant, Mr 
 Becklimimof, whohadcomeibme milesfrom 
 town to meet his old friend the ambaflador. 
 
 Here I found Mr Kanbar Nikititz Aikin- 
 fiof, with whom I got acquainted at Cazan, 
 while we wintered there, in the journey to 
 Perfia. Some crofs accident had been the 
 occaiion of his corning to this place. He 
 
 enjoyed
 
 1720. TO P E K I N. 267 
 
 i 
 enjoyed full liberty to walk about at plea- 
 
 fure. He underftood feveral languages, 
 was well acquainted with hiftory, and a 
 chearful good natured companion. 
 
 Here we pafled the holidays called Maff- 
 lapitza, or the Carnaval, which is held on 
 the week before Lent. In the mean time 
 our carriages arrived, which were defpatch- 
 ed again as foon as poflible. 
 
 The town of Yenifeyfky is pleafantly fi- 
 tuated in a plain, on the weftern bank of 
 the river Yenifey, from which the town 
 takes its name. It is a large and populous 
 place, fenced with a ditch, pallifades, and 
 wooden towers. Here is a good market 
 for furs of all forts ; particularly of the a- 
 nimals called piefly, which are of two co- 
 lours, white and dove colour. Thefe crea- 
 tures are caught far to the northward of 
 this place. They are nearly of the fhape 
 and fi2e of a fox ; having a (hort bulhy tail, 
 and a thick foft downy fur, very light and 
 warm, which is much efteerned by the great 
 men in the northern parts of China ; arid, 
 
 by
 
 268 A JOURNEY 1720. 
 
 by them, made chiefly into cufhions, on 
 which they fit in winter. 
 
 Befides the above, there is here another 
 creature called rofFomack in Rufs, and feel- 
 frefs by the Germans ; becaufe they ima- 
 gine it eats a great deal more in proportion 
 than other animals. I have feen feve- 
 ral of them alive. They are very fierce, 
 and about the fhape and fize of a badger ; 
 the neck, back, and tail, are black, but a- 
 bout the belly the hair is of a brownifh co- 
 lour. The blacker they are the more va- 
 luable. The (kin being thick, is only ufed 
 in caps and muffs. Alfo elks, rain- deer, 
 and flags. The latter retire to the fouth 
 on the approach of winter, and return in 
 the fpring. Here are likewife an incredi- 
 ble number of white hares, which perhaps 
 I may mention afterwards. 
 
 I muft not omit the black foxes, which 
 are in great abundance about Yenifeyiky. 
 Their fur is reckoned the moft beautiful 
 of any kind ; it is even preferred to the 
 fable, with refped to lightnefs and warm- 
 
 nefs.
 
 1726. TO P E K I N. 269 
 
 nefs. I faw here one of their fkins valued 
 at five hundred crowns, and fome of them 
 far exceed this fum. 
 
 Before I leave this place, 1 mall give a 
 fhort defcription of the courfe of the fa- 
 mous river Yenifey, according to the beft 
 information I could procure. It rifes in a 
 hilly country, at a great diftance fouthward 
 from this place ; being joined by many 
 rivers in its courfe, it grows into a mighty 
 ftream, and is, at Yenifeyiky, full as large 
 as the Volga. It runs the longeft courfe 
 of any river on this vaft continent. The 
 firft town, of any note, in coming down 
 this river, is Kraflho-yarr, which ftands on 
 the weftern bank. It is a place of confi- 
 derable trade, particularly in furs. From 
 this place, along the banks, are many vil- 
 lages, till the Yenifey meets the lower 
 Tongufta, a large river, coming from the 
 eaft. a few verft above Yenifeviky. Be- 
 
 ' 4 J 
 
 low this place, there are many inconfidera- 
 ble fettlements, till you come to Manga- 
 feylky, a town famous for furs, and the 
 
 flirine
 
 270 AJOURNEY 1720. 
 
 (hrine of an illuftrious faint, called Vafiile 
 Mangafeyfky, much frequented by the de- 
 vout people in thefe parts. 
 
 Above this place, the Yenifey receives 
 the Podkamena-tongufta, a- large river, 
 running from the fouth-eaft ; and at Man- 
 gafeyfky, it meets another river, called Tu- 
 rochanfky, coming from the weft. The 
 Yenifey now continues its courfe, almoft 
 due north, till it discharges itfelf into the 
 ocean. This river abounds with variety of 
 excellent fifh, fuch as I have already men- 
 tioned, but in lefler quantities. 
 
 The 27th, we left Yenifeyfky, and tra- 
 velled about eight or ten verft along the 
 fouth bank of the river, when we came to 
 thick. and tall woods, which obliged us to 
 leave the land, and march along the river 
 on the ice, which was very uneven, 1 'his 
 rougbnefs is caufed by the froft fetting in 
 about autumn, with a ftrong wefterly wind, 
 which drives up great cakes of ice upon 
 one another, in fome places four or five 
 feet high. If the froft happens to begin 
 
 in
 
 TO P E K I N. 
 
 in calm weather, the ice is very fmooth, 
 and eafy for fledges. 
 
 The 28th, we proceeded along the Ye- 
 nifey, meeting fometimes with villages. 
 The rigour of the cold was much abated, 
 but the face of winter appeared every 
 where, without the leaft fign of fpring. At 
 evening, we entered the river Tongufta, 
 which we found as rough as the former ; 
 but, as both the banks were overgrown 
 with thick woods, we were obliged to keep 
 along the ice. 
 
 Next day, we (till proceeded along the 
 river, in blowing weather and driving fnow. 
 
 The i ft of March, we overtook our bag- 
 gage, which we pafied ; it being thought 
 more convenient, both in order to procure 
 lodging and frefh horfes, that the heavy 
 carriages mould travel behind. 
 
 We continued our journey for feveral 
 days along the Tongufta. We found, now 
 and then, little villages, or (ingle houfes, 
 on the banks. One day, we chanced to 
 meet a prodigious flock of hares, all as 
 
 white
 
 272 A JOURNEY 
 
 white as the fnow on which they walked. 
 I fpeak within compafs, when I fay there 
 were above five or fix hundred of them. 
 They were coming down the river, very 
 deliberately, on a fmall path of their own 
 making, clofe to the beaten road. As foon 
 as they faw us, all of them run into the 
 woods, without feeming much frightened. 
 I am informed that thefe hares travel to the 
 fouth, in much greater flocks than this, e- 
 very fpring, and return in autumn, when 
 the rivers are frozen, and the fnow falls. 
 In moft of the villages we found plenty of 
 this fort of venifon ; the inhabitants, how- 
 ever, value it but little ; for they catch thefe 
 hares more on account of their {kins, of 
 which they make confiderable profits, than 
 their flefh. 
 
 The Tongufy, fo called from the name 
 of the fiver, who live along its banks, are 
 the pofterity of the ancient inhabitants of 
 Siberia, and differ in language, manners, 
 and drefs, and even in their perfons and 
 ftature, from all the other tribes of thefe 
 
 people
 
 !7*o, TO P E K I N. 273 
 
 people I have had occafion to fee. They 
 have no houfes, where they remain for a- 
 ny time, but range through the woods, and 
 along rivers, at pleafure ; and, wherever 
 they come, they erect a few fpars, incli- 
 ning to one another at the top ; thefe they 
 cover with pieces of birchen bark, fewed 
 together, leaving a hole at the top to let 
 out the fmoke. The fire is placed in the 
 middle. They are very civil and tractable, 
 and like to fmoke tobacco, and drink bran- 
 dy. About their huts they have generally 
 a good (lock of rain-deer, in which all their 
 wealth confifts. 
 
 The men are tall and able-bodied, brave, 
 and very honeft. The women are of a 
 middle fize, and virtuous. I have feen ma- 
 ny of the men with oval figures, like 
 wreaths, on their foreheads and chins ; 
 and fometimes a figure refembling the 
 branch of a tree, reaching from the corner 
 of the eye to the mouth. Thefe are made 
 in their infancy, by pricking the parts with 
 a needle, and rubbing them with charcoal, 
 VOL. I. Mm the
 
 274 AJOURNEY 1720. 
 
 the marks whereof remain as long as the 
 perfon lives. Their complexion is fwarthy. 
 Their faces are not fo flat as thofe of the 
 Kalmucks, but their countenances more o- 
 pen. They are altogether unacquainted 
 with any kind of literature, and worfhip 
 the fun and moon. They have many fha- 
 mans among them, who differ little from 
 thofe I formerly defcribed. I was told of 
 others, whofe abilities in fortune-telling far 
 exceeded thofe of the fhamans at this place, 
 but they lived far northward. They can- 
 not bear to fleep in a warm room, but re- 
 tire to their huts, and lie about the fire, on 
 ikins of wild beafts. It is furprifing how 
 thefe creatures can fuffer the very piercing 
 cold in thefe parts. 
 
 The women are drefled in a fur-gown, 
 reaching below the knee, and tied about 
 the waift with a girdle. This girdle is a- 
 bout three inches broad, made of deer's- 
 Ikin, having the hair curioufly ftitched 
 down and ornamented ; to which is faften- 
 ed, at each fide, an iron ring, that ferves to 
 
 carry
 
 1720. TO P E K I N. 275 
 
 carry a tobacco-pipe, and other trinkets of 
 fmall value. Their gowns are alfo ftitched 
 down the breaft, and about the neck. Their 
 long black hair is plaited, and tied about 
 their heads, above which they wear a fmall 
 fur-cap, which is becoming enough. Some 
 of them have fmall ear-rings. Their feet 
 are drefled in bufkins, made of deer-fkins, 
 which reach to the knee, and are tied about 
 the ancle with a thong of leather. 
 
 The drefs of the men is very fimple,and 
 fit for acYion. It confifts of a fhort jacket, 
 with narrow fleeves, made of deer's- fkin, 
 having the fur outward ; troufers and hofe 
 of the fame kind of {kin, both of one piece, 
 and tight to the limbs. They have, befides, 
 a piece of fur, that covers the breaft and 
 ftomach, which is hung about the neck 
 with a thong of leather. This, for the 
 moft part, is neatly ftitched and ornament- 
 ed by their wives. Round their heads they 
 have a ruff, made of the tails of fquirrels, 
 to preferve the tips of the ears from the cold. 
 There is nothing on the crown, but the 
 
 hair
 
 276" A JOURNEY 1720. 
 
 hair fmoothed, which hangs in a long plait- 
 ed lock behind their backs. 
 
 Their arms are, a bow, and feveral forts 
 of arrows, according to the different kinds 
 of game they intend to hunt. The ar- 
 rows are carried, in a quiver, on their 
 backs, and the bow always in their left 
 hand. Befides thefe, they have a fhort 
 lance, and a little hatcher. Thus accoutred, 
 they are not afraid to attack the fierceft 
 creature in the woods, even the flrongeft 
 bear ; for they are flout men, and dextrous 
 archers. In winter, which is the feafon for 
 hunting wild beafts, they travel on what 
 are called fnow-fhoes, without which it 
 would be impoflible to make their way 
 through the deep fnow. Thefe are made 
 of a very thin piece of light wood, about 
 five feet long, and five or fix inches broad, 
 inclining to a point before, and fquare be- 
 hind. In the middle is fixed a thong, 
 through which the feet are put. On thefe 
 fhoes a peifon may walk fafely over the 
 deepeft fnpw ; for a man's weight will not 
 
 fink
 
 1720, TO P E K I N. 277 
 
 fink them above an inch. Thefe, however, 
 can only be ufed on plains. They have a 
 different kind for afcending hills, with the 
 {kins of feals glued to the boards, having 
 the hair inclined backwards, which pre- 
 vents the Hiding of the flioes, fo that they 
 can afcend a hill very eafily ; and, in de- 
 fcending, they Hide downwards at a great 
 rate. 
 
 The nation of the Tongufy was very 
 numerous, but is of late much diminished 
 by the fmall-pox. It is remarkable, that 
 they knew nothing of this diftemper till 
 the Ruffians arrived among them. They 
 are fo much afraid of this difeafe, that, if 
 any one of a family is feized with it, the 
 reft immediately make the patient a little 
 hut, and fet by him fome water and vic- 
 tuals ; then, packing up every thing, they 
 march off to the windward, each carrying 
 an earthen pot, with burning coals in it, 
 and making a dreadful lamentation as they 
 go along. They never revifit the fick till 
 they think the danger paft. If the per- 
 
 fon
 
 278 A JOURNEY 1720, 
 
 fon dies, they place him on a branch of a 
 tre,e, to which he is tied with ftrong wythes, 
 to prevent his falling. 
 
 When they go a-hunting into the woods, 
 they carry with them no provifions, but 
 depend entirely on what they are to catch. 
 They eat every animal that comes in their 
 way, even a bear, fox, or wolf. The fquir- 
 rek are reckoned delicate food ; but the er- 
 mins have fuch a ftrong rank tafte and 
 fmell, that nothing but ftarving can oblige 
 them to eat their flefh. When a Tongufe 
 kills an elk or deer, he never moves from 
 the place till he has eat it up, unlefs he 
 happens to be near his family ; in which 
 cafe he carries part of it home. He is ne- 
 ver at a lofs for fire, having always a tin- 
 der-box about him. If this fhould happen 
 to be wanting, he kindles a fire, by rubbing 
 two pieces of wood againft each other. 
 They eat nothing raw, but in great extre- 
 mity. 
 
 The fables are not caught in the fame 
 manner as other animals. The fur is fo 
 
 tender,
 
 1720. TO P E K r N. 279 
 
 tender, that the leaft mark of an arrow, or 
 ruffling of the hair, fpoils the fale of the 
 (kin. In hunting them they only ufe a 
 little dog and a net. When a hunter finds 
 the track of a fable upon the fnow, he fol- 
 lows it perhaps for two or three days, till 
 the poor animal, quite tired/ takes refuge 
 in fome tall tree ; for it can climb like a 
 cat ; the hunter then fpreads his net around 
 the tree, and makes a fire ; the fable, un- 
 able to endure the fmoke, immediately de- 
 fcends, and is caught in the net. I have 
 been told by fome of thefe hunters, that, 
 when hard pinched with hunger on fuch 
 long chaces, they take two thin boards, one 
 of which they apply to the pit of the fto* 
 mach, and the other to the back oppofite 
 to it ; the extremities of thefe boards are 
 tied with cords, which are drawn tighter by 
 degrees, and prevent their feeling the cra- 
 vings of hunger. 
 
 Although I have obferved, that the Ton- 
 gufy, in general, worfhip the fun and 
 moon, there are many exceptions to this 
 
 obfer-
 
 A JOURNEY 1720; 
 
 obfervation. I have found intelligent peo- 
 ple among them, who believed there was a 
 being fuperior to both fun and moon, and 
 who created them and all the world. 
 
 I fhall only remark farther, that, from all 
 the accounts I have heard and read of the 
 natives of Canada, there is no nation in the 
 world which they fo much referable as the 
 Tongufians. The diftance between them 
 is not fo great as is commonly imagined. 
 
 The 4th of March, we came to a little 
 monaftery, called Troytza, dedicated to the 
 Holy Trinity ; where we found about half 
 a dozen monks, who gave us an hofpitablc 
 reception in their cells, and furnimed us 
 with provifions and frefh horfes. The mo- 
 naftery ftands upon the north fide of the 
 river, on a very pleafant though folitary 
 bank, encompafled with woods, corn-fields, 
 and good pafturage. Moft of the villages 
 are on the north fide of the river, as it is 
 higher than the fouth fide. 
 
 The fame day, we proceeded on our jour- 
 ney along the river* We met with, daily, 
 
 great
 
 1720. TO P E K I N. 281 
 
 great flocks of hares in their progrefs to the 
 weftward, and many Tongufians in their 
 huts. It is to be obferved, that, from this 
 river northward to the Frozen Ocean, there 
 are no inhabitants, except a few Tongufi- 
 ans, on the banks of the great rivers ; the 
 whole of this moft extenfive country being 
 overgrown with dark impenetrable woods. 
 The foil along the banks of this river is 
 good, and produces wheat, barley, rye, and 
 oats. The method taken by the inhabi- 
 tants to deftroy the large fir-trees is, to cut 
 off a ring of bark from the trunk, about a 
 foot broad, which prevents the afcending 
 of the fap, and the tree withers in a few 
 years. This prepares it for being burnt in 
 a dry feafon ; by which means the ground 
 is both cleared of the wood, and manured 
 by the aflies, without much labour. 
 
 The Ruffians obferve, that, where the 
 fort of fir '; commonly called the Scotch fir, 
 grows, the ground never fails of producing 
 corn ; but it is not fo where the pitch, or 
 any other kind of fir, prevails. 
 
 VOL. I. N n Tie
 
 282 A JOURNEY 1720. 
 
 The yth, we came to the head of the 
 Tongufky, which is formed by the conflux 
 of two other rivers, the Angara, and the 
 Elimm. The firft iflues from the great 
 Baykall lake, and runs towards the weft, 
 till it meets the Tongufky when it lofes 
 its name. We left the Angara and Ton- 
 gufky on our right hand, and proceeded a- 
 long the Elimm, which we found much 
 fmoother than the Tongufky. The Elimm 
 is a confiderably large and navigable river. 
 The banks on the fouth fide are very high, 
 and covered with rugged rocks, overgrown 
 with woods ; but, to the north, you meet 
 with feveral villages, corn-fields, and paf- 
 turage. 
 
 We kept on our courfe up the Elimm, a 
 little to the northward of the eaft, till the 
 9th, when we arrived at the town of E- 
 limfky, fo called from the name of the ri- 
 ver, which ftands in a narrow valley, on the 
 fouth fide of the river, encompafled with 
 high hills, and rocks covered with woods. 
 This place is but fmall, and is only confi- 
 
 derable,
 
 1720* TO P E K I N. 283 
 
 derable, as it ftands on the road to the eaf- 
 tern parts of Siberia ; for travellers to Chi- 
 na generally take to the fouth-eaft, to- 
 wards Irkutfky ; and thofe who travel to 
 Yakutfky and Kamtzatfky, to the north- 
 eaft. 
 
 CHAP.
 
 A JOURNEY 1720; 
 
 CHAR IV. 
 
 Obfervations on TCakutJky and Kamt- 
 %atjky, 8SV, yourney continued to 
 Irkut/ky, and Occurrences there, 
 
 AT Elimiky I met with General Kani- 
 fer. He was adjutant general to 
 Charles XII. of Sweden, and much efteem- 
 ed by that great warrior, for his military- 
 exploits. Kanifer was a native of Cour- 
 land. He was taken prifoner by the Ruf- 
 fians in Poland, and fent hither, where he 
 lived in eafe and folitude, and was regu- 
 larly vifited by all travellers. 
 
 This gentleman had a creature called 
 kaberda, which was brought to him when
 
 1720. TO P E K I N. 285 
 
 a fawn by fotne of the Tongufy. It is the 
 animal from which the fweet-fmelling drug 
 called mufk is taken. The mufk grows a- 
 bout the navel, in form of an excrefcence, 
 which is cut off, and preferved, when the 
 creature is killed. There are many of 
 them in this country ; but the mufk is not 
 fo ftrong fcented as that which comes from 
 China, and more fouthern climates. The 
 general had bred this creature to be very 
 familiar. He fed at his table with bread 
 and roots. When dinner was over, it 
 jumped on the table, and picked up the 
 crumbs. It followed him about the ftreets 
 like a dog. I muft confefs it was pleafing 
 to fee it cut caprioles, and play with chil- 
 dren like a kid. 
 
 The kaberda is a fize lefs than the fal- 
 low-deer, and its colour darker. It is of a 
 pretty fhape, having erect horns, without 
 branches ; is very fwift, and haunts rocks 
 and mountains of difficult accefs to men or 
 dogs ; and, when hunted, jumps from cliff 
 to cliff with incredible celerity, and firm- 
 
 nefs
 
 s$6 A JOURNEY 1720; 
 
 nefs of foot. The flefh is efteemed better 
 venifon than any of the deer kind, of lar- 
 ger fize, whereof there is great variety in 
 thefe parts/ 
 
 Before I leave Elimfky, I fliall, as ufualj 
 give a fhort account of fome of the places 
 adjacent ; particularly thofe to the north- 
 eaft, towards the river Lena, and Yakutfky, 
 according as I have been informed by tra- 
 vellers, on whofe veracity I could entirely 
 depend. 
 
 The people who travel in winter from 
 hence to thefe places, generally do it in Ja- 
 nuary or February. It is a very long and 
 difficult journey, and which none but Ton* 
 gufians, or fuch hardy people, have abili- 
 ties to perform. The Ruffians frequently 
 finifh it in fix weeks. The common me- 
 thod is as follows : After travelling a few 
 days in fledges, when the road becomes 
 impaflable by horfes, they fet themfelves 
 on fnow-fhoes, and drag after them what 
 is called a nart, containing provifions and 
 other neceflaries, which are as few and 
 
 light
 
 1720. TO P E K I N. 287 
 
 light as poflible. This nart is a kind of 
 fledge, about five feet long, and ten inch- 
 es broad, which a man may eafily draw up- 
 on the deepeft fnow. At night, they make a 
 large fire, and lay themfelves down to deep 
 in thefe narrow fledges. As foon as they 
 have refreshed themfelves, they again pro- 
 ceed on their fnow-fhoes, as before. This 
 manner of travelling continues about the 
 fpace of ten days, when they come to a 
 place where they procure dogs to draw 
 both themfelves and their narts. The dogs 
 are yoked by pairs, and are more or fewer 
 in number, according to the weight they 
 have to draw. Being trained to the work, 
 they go on with great fpirit, barking all the 
 way ; and the perfon, who lies in the 
 fledge, holds a fmall cord to guide the dog 
 that leads the reft. They are fattened to 
 the fledge by a foft rope, which is tied a- 
 bout their middle, and paries through be- 
 tween their hind legs. I have been fur- 
 prifed to fee the weight that thefe creatures 
 are able to draw ; for travellers muft carry 
 
 along
 
 A JOURNEY 1720. 
 
 along with them provifions, both for them- 
 felves and the dogs. Thefe ^watchful ani- 
 mals know the time of fetting out in the 
 morning, and make a difmal howling, till 
 they are fed, and purfue their journey. 
 This way of travelling would not, I believe, 
 fuit every conftitution ; the very fight of it 
 fatisfied my curiofity. Thus, however, 
 thefe people proceed, for near three weeks, 
 till they arrive at fome villages on the Le- 
 na, where, leaving the dogs, they procure 
 horfesj with which they travel to the town 
 of Yakutfky. This place has its name from 
 a rivulet, called Yakut, which empties itfelf 
 into the Lena. 
 
 I have been, perhaps, too particular in 
 defcribing the method of travelling w'th 
 fnow-fhoes and dogs ; but, as thefe things 
 are known to few Europeans, I concluded 
 an account of them would not be difagree- 
 able. I have feen feveral Swedifh officers 
 who have travelled to Yakutfky in this 
 manner. I tried the mow- {hoes myfelf, 
 
 and
 
 TO P E K I N. 289 
 
 and found them very fatiguing ; but time 
 and practice make them eafy and familiar. 
 
 There is a more agreeable road from E- 
 limfky to Yakutfky than that I have men- 
 tioned, which is by water, down the river 
 Lena ; but this rout will not agree with the 
 time and circumftances of every traveller. 
 Thofe who travel fromlrkutfkyby this courfe 
 go by land to a place called Vercholenfkv 
 Oftrogue, fituated near the fource of the Le- 
 na, where they embark, and fall down the 
 flream. Thofe who go from Elimfky, crofs 
 the country directly, about two days jour- 
 ney, to the firft convenient place upon the 
 Lena, where they procure veflels, and fail 
 down the river to Yakutfky, or any other 
 place ; but, in this paflage by water, they 
 are peftered with numbers of large gnats 
 and mulkitoes, which leflen the pleafure of 
 the voyage. 
 
 Before I ; proceed to the northward, it 
 will not be improper to give a fhort de- 
 fcription of the famous river Lena ; which, 
 for the length of its courfe, and quantity of 
 
 VOL. I. O o water.
 
 I A JOURNEY 1720. 
 
 water, may be compared to any of the lar- 
 geft rivers in the world. 
 
 The Lena rifes at a fmall diftance north- 
 ward from the Baykall lake, and runs to the 
 north, with a little variation, till it difchar- 
 ges itfelf into the Northern Ocean. I com- 
 pute the length of it, from the fource to the 
 ocean, to be about two thoufand five hun-* 
 dred Englifh miles, though it is much morei 
 by common report. It is navigable during 
 this whole courfe, having no cataracts fo 
 great as to prevent the paflage of veflels of 
 confiderable burden, ft receives many great 
 rivers, moft of which come from the eaft. 
 It may be eafily imagined, that the Lena 
 cannot fail of being ftored with various 
 kinds of excellent fim, when the other ri- 
 vers in Siberia afford fuch plenty and vari- 
 ety. The banks are generally overgrown 
 with tall thick woods, wherein are abun- 
 dance of game, and wild beafts. The 
 country, between its fource and the 
 Baykall lake, is well peopled, abounding 
 
 with
 
 1720. TO P E K I N. 
 
 with many Rufs villages and corn-fields^ 
 along the banks of the river. 
 
 Having formerly mentioned Yakutfky 
 and Kamtzatfky, I {hall add a few obfer- 
 vations on thefe two provinces. 
 
 The town of Yakutfky, capital of the 
 province of that name, is fituated on the 
 weft bank of the river Lena, and governed 
 by a commandant ; whofe office is reckon- 
 ed very lucrative, as many fables, and o- 
 ther valuable furs, are found in that pro- 
 vince. 
 
 The winter here is very long, and the 
 froft fo violent, that it is never out of the 
 earth, in the month of June, beyond two 
 feet and an half below the furface. When 
 the inhabitants bury their dead three 
 feet deep, they are laid in frozen earth ; 
 for the heat of the fun never penetrates a- 
 bove two feet, or two feet and an half ; fo 
 that, I am informed, all the dead bodies re- 
 main in the earth unconfumed, and will do 
 fo till the day of judgment. 
 
 The
 
 292 A JOURNEY 1720. 
 
 The town, and many villages in its 
 neighbourhood, are inhabited by Ruffians, 
 who have horfes and cows, but no fheep 
 nor corn. They are plentifully fupplied 
 with corn from the fouthern parts of the 
 country, by water-carriage along the Lena. 
 And, in fummer, they make hay enough to 
 feed their cattle in winter. 
 
 The province of Yakutfky is inhabited 
 by a numerous tribe of Tartars, by which 
 name the Ruffians call the whole of the 
 natives of this country, however they dif- 
 fer from one another in religion, language, 
 and manners. Thofe of this province are 
 named Yakuty. They occupy a great 
 fpace of territory round this place, efpeci- 
 ally to the eaft, where they border with 
 the extenfive province of Kamtzatfky. 
 
 The Yakuty differ little from the Ton- 
 gufians, either in their perfons or way of 
 life. Their occupation, like that of the o- 
 ther natives, is fifhing and hunting. They 
 have flattifti faces, little black eyes, and 
 long black hair, plaited, and hanging down 
 
 their
 
 1720. TO P E K I N. 293 
 
 their back*. Many of the men are mark- 
 ed in the face with charcoal, after the man- 
 ner of the Tongufians. I have, however, 
 feen many of thefe people, both men and 
 women, of good complexions. They of- 
 ten fell their children to the Ruffians, who 
 are very fond of them, as they generally 
 make trufty fervants. 
 
 Thefe people, though otherwife humane 
 and tractable, have among them one very 
 barbarous cuftom : When any of their 
 people are infirm through age, or feized 
 with diftempers reckoned incurable, they 
 make a fmall hut for the patient, near fome 
 river, in which they leave him, with fome 
 provifions, and feldom or never return to 
 vifit him. On fuch occafions, they have 
 no regard to father or mother, but fay they 
 do them a good office in fending them to a 
 better world. Whereby it appears, that 
 even thefe rude ignorant people have a 
 notion of a future ftate. 
 
 Under Kamtzatfky I include all that vaft 
 tra& of land reaching from the river 
 
 Amoor,
 
 2 94 AJOURNEY 
 
 Amoor, along the fhore of the Eaftern, or 
 Japanefe ocean, called by the Ruffians 
 Tikoe More, or the Calm Sea, to the north- 
 eaft point of the continent. The country 
 along the fhore is very pleafant and heal- 
 thy, efpecially to the fouth, where the cli- 
 mate is temperate. This part of the coun- 
 try produces grain, and, as I have been in- 
 formed, even grapes and other fruits. The 
 inhabitants are very humane and hofpi- 
 table. 
 
 When the Ruffians firft entered this pro- 
 vince, the Kamtzedans endeavoured to op- 
 pofe them. For this purpofe they afTem- 
 bled great numbers of men, armed, after 
 the fafhion of their country, with bows, 
 arrows, and Ihort lances, headed with bone, 
 fharpened at the point. Whence it ap- 
 pears, that thefe people knew no more the 
 ufe of iron, than the Mexicans on the arri- 
 val of the Spaniards in America. Their 
 multitudes were foon difperfed by a few 
 Ruffians with fire-arms, which, in thofe 
 days, had rifled barrels, and a fmall bore, 
 
 which
 
 j 7 2o. TO P E K I N. 295 
 
 which killed at a great diftance. The poor 
 Kamtzedans, feeing their people fall with- 
 out any vifible wound, and aftonifhed with 
 the fire and noife of the gunpowder, left 
 the field in the utmoft confternation. Their 
 difpofitions now were wholly inclined to 
 peace ; and a few of their chief men were 
 fent to the Ruffians in order to obtain it- 
 They proftrated themfelves, in the moft 
 fubmifiive manner, before the leader of the 
 party, and begged of him to grant them, 
 peace ; which he did, on condition of their 
 paying to his Majefty an annual tribute of 
 fables, or other furs. This condition they 
 have punctually performed ever fince. 
 
 Many parts of Kamtzatlky are hilly and 
 mountainous, particularly to the north, and 
 covered with tall woods. At Ochotfky is 
 a good harbour, and timber enough to 
 build a royal navy. There are many great 
 and fmall rivers that run through the coun- 
 try, and empty themfelves into the Eaftern 
 Ocean, among which is a great river called 
 Anadeer. To the north of this river, to- 
 wards
 
 A JOURNEY 1720; 
 
 wards the ocean, lies an extenfive traft of 
 land, little known, and inhabited by a 
 fierce and favage people, called by the Ruf- 
 fians Anadeertzy, who continue very un- 
 tra&able. 
 
 I have nothing further to add concern- 
 ing thefe remote provinces, only, I am per- 
 fuaded, that the iflands of Japan can be at 
 no great diftance from the fouthern parts 
 of Kamtzatfky. What confirmed me in 
 this opinion is, that I faw at St Peterfburgh 
 a young man, a native of Japan, who, I 
 believe, is yet alive in the Academy of Sci- 
 ences at that place. I afked him, by what 
 accident he was brought fo far from his 
 own country ; and he gave me the follow- 
 ing account : That his father and himfelf, 
 with a few perfons more, being at a noted 
 town called Naggifaky, on the weft coaft 
 of the ifland, employed about fome affairs 
 of trade, and having finifhed their bufinefs, 
 intended to return to their own habitations, 
 on the north fliore, by failing round the 
 coaft. Therefore went they on board a 
 
 fmall
 
 1720. TO P E K I N. 297 
 
 fmall boat, and begun their voyage home- 
 ward ; but, meeting with a ftrong gale off 
 the land, they were unfortunately driven 
 out to fea, and, in a few days, were caft 
 upon the coaft of Kamtzatfky, half-ftarved, 
 and in the greateft diftrefs- In this condi- 
 tion they met with a Ruffian officer, who 
 afforded them all that affiftance which com- 
 mon humanity dictates on fuch occafions. 
 Notwithftanding all his care, feveral of the 
 old people died, being quite fpent with fa- 
 tigue, and want of victuals. That he and 
 another youth, who was fince dead, were 
 fent to St Peterfburgh, where his Majefty 
 was pleafed to order that they fhould be 
 provided for in the Academy. This 
 young man could read and write both the 
 Japanefe and Rufljan languages. 
 
 We fet out from. Elimfky on the I2th ; 
 and next day, in the evening, came to a 
 fmall village, upon the north bank of the 
 river Angara, about eighty verft diftant 
 from Elimfky. During thefe two days we 
 faw no houfe nor any inhabitants, the whole 
 
 VOL. I. P p of
 
 298 A JOURNEY 1720, 
 
 of the country through which we pafled 
 being covered with tall and thick woods. 
 There is a narrow, road cut for fledges, and 
 the trees on each fide meeting at the top 
 {hade it by day, and in the night make it 
 very dark, and almoft difmal. 
 
 We pafled the night in this village, 
 where we got frefn horfes ; and, next 
 morning, repeated our journey almoft due 
 eaft up the river Angara upon the ice. A- 
 long the banks we found many villages 
 well peopled. The face of the country 
 had now a different afpedt from what I had 
 feen for feveral months ; fometimes we 
 faw a fine champaign country, exhibiting 
 a beautiful and extenfive profpect ; at o- 
 ther times, the view was agreeably varied 
 with woods and rifing grounds. The 
 north fide of the river is moftly overgrown 
 with woods. There are fome openings a- 
 long the banks, where we found villages, 
 and abundance of cattle and provifions. 
 
 The 1 5th, we arrived at a large village 
 called Ballaganiky, fituated on the fouth 
 
 fide
 
 1720, TO P E K I N. 299 
 
 fide of the Angara, near a rivulet, running 
 from the fouth, called Unga. The fitua- 
 tion of this place is very pleafant, as it 
 ftands in a fruitful plain, and has many 
 corn-fields and woods in the neighbour- 
 hood. 
 
 Here we found another tribe of the na- 
 tives of Siberia, who differ, in fome parti- 
 culars, from all thofe I have formerly de- 
 fcribed. They are called by the Ruffians 
 Bratfky, but by themfelves Buraty. They 
 live in tents all the year ; and, having large 
 flocks of fheep, and many cows and horfes, 
 they remove from place to place, as the 
 convenience of grazing requires. Their 
 language has a great affinity to that of the 
 Kalmucks 5 and they have priefts among 
 them who can read and write that lan- 
 guage. As to their drefs and manner of 
 life, I could obferve little difference between 
 them and the Kalmucks on the Volga ; 
 and therefore conclude they have both de- 
 fcended from the fame original. Their 
 faces, however, are not quite fo flat as thofe 
 
 of
 
 A JOURNEY 1720, 
 
 of the Kalmucks ; their nofes beirfg fome- 
 what higher, and their countenances more 
 open. 
 
 The Buraty are ftout active men, but 
 hate all kind of labour : For, though they 
 have the example of the Ruffians plowing 
 and fowing their ground, and living plen- 
 tifully on the produce of this rich and fer- 
 tile foil, they chufe ftill to live in their 
 tents, and tend their flocks, on which their 
 fubfiftence entirely depends. 
 
 The chief exercife of the men is hunt- 
 ing and riding. They have a good breed 
 of faddle-horfes, and their horned cattle 
 are very large. Their fheep have broad 
 tails, and their mutton is excellent. They 
 have alib great abundance of goats ; for 
 all thefe animals they make no provifion 
 of fodder, but leave them to feed in the 
 open fields. When the fnow falls to a great 
 depth, which feldom happens in thefe parts, 
 they drive them to the fouthward to rifing 
 grounds, where Jitile fnow lies. 
 
 Their
 
 I 7 2o. TO P E K I N. 301 
 
 Their arms are bows and arrows, lances 
 and fabres ; all of which are ufed on horfe- 
 back ; for, like the Kalmucks, they have 
 no infantry, They are dexterous archers, 
 and fkilful horfemen. 
 
 Thefe people were formerly fubject to a 
 prince of the Mongals, but now live very 
 quietly under the Ruffian government. 
 They are at prefent a very numerous 
 people, reaching towards the eaft and fouth 
 of the Baykall lake, and are generally 
 reckoned very honeft and fmcere. 
 
 As to their drefs, the men wear a coat, 
 or rather gown, of fheep-fkins, girt about 
 the middle, in all feafons ; a fmall round 
 cap, faced with fur, having a taflel of red 
 filk at the top, which, together with a pair 
 of drawers and boots, makes up the whole 
 of their apparel. The womens drefs is 
 nearly the fame, only their gowns are plait- 
 ed about the waift, and hang down like a 
 petticoat. The married women have their 
 hair hanging in two locks, one on each 
 fide of the head, drawn through two iron 
 
 rings
 
 302 A JOURNEY 1720. 
 
 rings to prevent its floating on the breaft, 
 and looking very like a tye-wig. Round 
 their fore- head they wear a hoop of po- 
 limed iron, made faft behind ; and on their 
 head a fmall round cap, faced with fur, 
 and embroidered, in their fafhion, to dif- 
 tinguifh it from thofe of the men. The maids 
 are drefled in the fame manner, only their 
 hair is all plaited, hanging in feparate locks 
 round their head, and is as black as a ra- 
 ven : Some of them have good complex- 
 ions. Both the men and women are cour- 
 teous in their behaviour. I fhould like 
 them much better if they were a little more 
 cleanly. Both their perfons and tents are 
 extremely nafty, from their uimg only 
 {kins to preferve them from the cold ; on 
 thefe they fit or lie, round a little fire, in 
 their tents. 
 
 The religion of the Buraty feems to be 
 the fame with that of the Kalmucks, which 
 is downright Paganifm of the grofleft kind. 
 They talk indeed of an Almighty and good 
 being, who created all things, whom they 
 
 call
 
 1720. T O P E K I N. 303 
 
 call Burchun, but feem bewildered, in ob- 
 fcure and fabulous notions, concerning his 
 nature and government. They have two 
 high priefts, to whom they pay great re- 
 fpecl: ; one is called Delay-Lama, the other 
 Kutuchtu. Of thefe priefts I {hall have an 
 opportunity to give fome account after- 
 wards. 
 
 In paffing the tents of the Buraty, I of- 
 ten obferved a long pole, whereon was 
 hung, by the horns, the head and fkin of a 
 fheep. On inquiring the reafon of this 
 appearance, I was told that the animal, 
 whofe head and fkin thefe were, had been 
 flain, and offered in facrifice, to the God 
 who protected their flocks and herds. I 
 could obferve no images among them, ex- 
 cept fomerelicks given them by their priefts, 
 which they had from the Delay-Lama ; 
 thefe are commonly hung up in a corner 
 of their tents, and fometimes about their 
 necks, by way of an amulet, to preferve 
 them from misfortunes. 
 
 The
 
 304 A JOURNEY 1720, 
 
 The 1 6th, we came to another large vil- 
 lage, called Kamenka, fituated on the north 
 bank of the river, where we found many 
 of the Buraty in their tents. This day we 
 had fome rain, which melted much fnow, 
 and made it dangerous to travel upon the 
 ice ; fo that we were obliged to leave the 
 river, and make the beft of our way along 
 the banks ; for feveral of our horfes broke 
 through the ice, and were got up again 
 with no fmall difficulty. 
 
 The i yth, our route lay to the fouth-eaft. 
 The alteration of the weather was now 
 very perceptible, the heat of the fun was 
 very intenfe, and the fnow fuddenly dif- 
 appeared, leaving no marks of winter, ex- 
 cept the ice upon the river, which was va- 
 nifhing very faft. Thus, in the fpace of a 
 few days, we pafied from a cold winter to 
 a warm fpring ; and one would almoft have 
 imagined we had been imperceptibly drop- 
 ped into a another climate. Our fledges, in 
 which we had travelled and lodged, for 
 moft part, during the winter, could now be 
 
 of
 
 1720. TO P E K I N. 305 
 
 of no ufe ; and we left them to be put on 
 wheel-carriages, in order to follow us as 
 fhould be convenient. 
 
 Having procured fuch horfes and furni- 
 ture as the place afforded, we proceeded a- 
 long the north bank of the Angara, to- 
 wards Irkutfky. We were efcorted by fome 
 Coflacks, and a party of the Buraty, armed 
 with bows and arrows. We hunted all the 
 way as we travelled, and were not a little 
 furprifed to fee the Buraty kill many hares 
 with their arrows. This exercife was very 
 feafonable, as we had been confined to 
 fledges for more than three months, during 
 our journey from Cazan to this place. 
 
 On the 1 8th of March, we arrived at 
 the town of Irkutfky, fo called from the 
 rivulet Irkut, which falls into the Angara 
 near it. It ftands on the north bank of 
 the Angara, in a large plain, to the north 
 of which the grounds are very high, and 
 covered with woods. On the fouth fide of 
 the river, towards the Baykall lake, are 
 high hills, rifing to the fouth, and covered 
 Voi,, I. Qjl with
 
 06 A JOURNEY 1720. 
 
 \vith tall trees, among which are many la- 
 rixes and Siberian cedars. The larix, cal- 
 led in Rufs lifvinitza, is a well known tree 
 in thefe parts ; near the root of it grows a 
 famous drug, called agarick, in form of a 
 jnufhroom ; it fheds its leaf in autumn, and 
 in fummer it looks like a pine; it grows 
 yery flraight and tall, and is reckoned good 
 timber for {hip-building ; it bears a cone 
 Jike the fir-tree, containing the feed, but 
 not half fo large. 
 
 What is called the cedar is a large tall 
 tree, which never fhades the leaf; it is 
 white and fmcoth, but has not the leaft 
 fmell of cedar. They ufe it chiefly in build- 
 ing houfes ; and it makes the fined white 
 floors, and freed from knots, of any wood 
 I know. The leaves are like thofe of a 
 pine, but grow in taflels, very beautiful. 
 The cones are large, and inftead of feed, 
 like the fir, contain a fmall nut with a ker- 
 nel, of which the people in this country 
 are very fond, and eat it by way of a deferr, 
 jn place cf better fruit. It has a pleafant 
 
 tafte,
 
 1720. TO P E K I N. 307 
 
 tafte, like that of raifins, and is efteemed 
 good for the flomach. 
 
 The town of Irkutfky is fortified with a 
 ditch, and ftrong pallifades, having towers 
 at certain diftances. The garrifon confifU 
 of fome regular troops, befides a number 
 of Coflacks, or the militia of the country. 
 The town contains about two thoufand 
 houfes ; and the inhabitants are plentifully 
 fupplied with provifions of all kinds front 
 the neighbouring villages. The adjacent 
 woods abound with variety of game, The 
 fiver affords fturgeon, and many other kinds 
 of fifh, but no fterlet; becaufe, as I appre- 
 hend, they delight in muddy dreams, and 
 the water at this place is fa clear, that, in 
 two fathoms deep, one may fee the pebbled 
 at the bottom. 
 
 At Irkutfky is a good market for furs of 
 all forts, and likewife for -many kinds of 
 Chinefe goods. All mefchandife muft be 
 entered at the cuftom-houfe in this place^ 
 and pays a duty of ten per cent, which pro- 
 duces
 
 3 o8 AJOURNEY 1720. 
 
 duces a confiderable revenue to his Ma- 
 jefty. 
 
 The sjth of March, our baggage arri- 
 ved, after furmounting many difficulties 
 on the road. They had been obliged to 
 leave many of the fledges, after taking the 
 baggage off them, and putting it on wheel- 
 carriages. 
 
 Our defign was to have crofled the Bay- 
 kail Sea upon the ice, and then proceeded 
 by land to the town of Selinginfky ; but 
 we came too late for that purpofe. The 
 feafon was fo far advanced, that, before our 
 carriages arrived, the river was almoft free 
 of ice. We were informed, indeed, that 
 the ice upon the lake was fufficiently ftrong 
 to bear horfes ; but, upon confidering the 
 matter, it was thought moft advifeable to re- 
 main here, till the ice in the fea was alfo 
 melted, that we might go by water to Se- 
 linginfky ; and orders were immediately 
 given that veflels fliould be prepared for 
 this purpofe* 
 
 April
 
 TO P E K I N. 30$ 
 
 April i ft, we croflfed the river, accom- 
 panied by Mr Rakitin the commandant, in 
 order to take a view of the country towards 
 the fouth. We rode through fine woods of 
 ftately oaks, and other trees, formerly men- 
 tioned. We hunted all the way, and found 
 abundance of game. At laft, we came to a 
 fmall Ruffian village, in a fruitful valley, 
 encompafled with hills covered with woods, 
 where we lodged. Next day we went ten 
 or a dozen miles farther, in fearch of wild 
 beafts ; but, finding none, we returned to 
 the fame village, and the day following to 
 Irkutfky. 
 
 The loth, we were entertained with a 
 famous Buratfky Shaman, who was alfo 
 lama or prieft, and was brought from a 
 great diftance. As thefe fhamans make a 
 great noife in this part of the world, and 
 are believed, by the ignorant vulgar, to be 
 infpired, I lhall give fome account of the 
 behaviour of this one, in particular, by 
 which it will appear that the whole is an 
 impofition. 
 
 He
 
 316 A JOURNEY 
 
 He was introduced to the ambaflador by 
 the commandant, accompanied by feveral 
 chiefs of his own tribe, who treat him with 
 great refpecT:. He was a man of about 
 thirty years of age, of a grave afpe<5t and 
 deportment. At his introduction, he had 
 a cup of brandy prefented to him, which 
 he drank, but refufed any more. 
 
 After fome converfation, he was defired 
 to exhibit fome fpecimen of his art ; but 
 he replied, he could do nothing in a Ruf- 
 fian houfe, becaufe there were fome images 
 of faints which prevented his fuccefs. The 
 performance was therfore adjourned to a 
 Buratfky tent in the fuburbs. According- 
 ly, in the evening, we went to the place 
 appointed, where we found the fhaman, 
 with feveral of his companions, round a 
 little fire, fmoking tobacco, but no women 
 among them. We placed ourfelves on one 
 fide of the tent, leaving the other for him 
 and his countrymen. After fitting about 
 half an hour, the fliaman placed himfelf 
 crofs- legged upon the floor, clofe by a few 
 
 burn- 1
 
 * 7 2o. TO P E K I N. 311 
 
 burning coals upon the hearth, with his, 
 face towards his companions ; then he took 
 two fticks, about four feet long each, one 
 in each hand, and began to fmg a difmai 
 tune, beating time with the fticks ; all his 
 followers joined in the chorus. During 
 this part of the performance, he turned and 
 diftorted his body into many different pof- 
 tures, till at laft he wrought himfelf up to 
 fuch a degree of fury, that he foamed at 
 the mouth, and his eyes looked red and fta^ 
 ring. He now darted up on his legs, and fell 
 a dancing, like one diftracled, till he trode 
 out the fire with his bare feet. Thefe un- 
 natural motions were, by the vulgar, attri- 
 buted to the operations of a divinity j and, 
 in truth, one would almoft have imagined 
 him poflefTed by fome daemon. After being 
 quite fpent with dancing, he retired to the 
 door of the tent, and gave three dreadful 
 flirieks, by which, his companions faid, he 
 called the daemon to direct him in anfwer- 
 ing fuch queftions as mould be propofed. 
 He then returned, and fat down in great 
 
 com-
 
 314 A JOURNEY 1720; 
 
 compofure, telling he was ready to refolve 
 any queftion that might be afked. Several 
 of our people put queftions in abundance ; 
 all which he anfwered readily, but in fuch 
 ambiguous terms that nothing could be 
 made of them. He now performed feve- 
 ral legerdemain tricks, fuch as ftabbing 
 himfelf with a knife, and bringing it up at 
 at his mouth, running himfelf through 
 with a fword, and many others too trifling 
 to mention. In fhort, nothing is more e- 
 vident than that thefe fhamans are a parcel 
 of jugglers, who impofe on the ignorant 
 and credulous vulgar. 
 
 The 6th of April, we went to a monaf- 
 tery, about five miles to the eaftward of 
 this place, where we dined with the Arch- 
 bifhop of Tobolfky. This prelate had 
 lately come hither to vifit fome monafte- 
 ries, and, in his way, had baptifed a num- 
 ber of Ofteaks and other heathens. From 
 this time, till the 8th of May, little mate- 
 rial happened. We waited patiently for 
 difTolving of the ice on the Baykall 
 
 lake,
 
 T O P E K I N. 
 
 lake, of which we expected to receive the 
 moft certain knowledge, by means of the 
 Boating ice on the Angara ; for, when this 
 happens, that river is filled with floating 
 takes, which are driven along with great 
 fury by the wind and current. 
 
 The nth, the river was now clear of 
 ice. Our baggage was {hipped on board 
 large flat-bottomed boats, and drawn up 
 the ftream ; the wind being foutherly^ 
 made the progrefs'of the boats very flow. 
 The ambaflador, therefore, refolved to re- 
 main at this place till he heard they had 
 nearly reached the lake, which is about 
 forty verft from Irkutfky. 
 
 Before we left this place, Mr Kfemen- 
 {ky, our interpreter for the Latin tongue^ 
 died of a hectic diforder. He Was a Poliffi 
 gentleman* and had laboured under this 
 diftemper for fome years. 
 
 VOL, I* R r a H A
 
 314 A JOURNEY 1720. 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 From Irkutjky, crofs the Lake Bay- 
 kall, to Selinginjky ; feme Account 
 of the Kutuchtu, &c. 
 
 THE ijth of May, the weather being 
 very hot, we did not fet out till after 
 dinner, when we left Irkutfky, accompa- 
 nied by the commandant and fome other 
 officers of the place. We rode along the 
 north bank of the river, through pleafant 
 woods, and fome open fields, till we came, 
 about midnight, to a few fifhermen's huts, 
 where we halted for a few hours, and re- 
 peated our journey early next morning. 
 
 At
 
 $720. T O P E K I N ? 315 
 
 At noon, we arrived at a fmall chapel, 
 dedicated to St Nicolas, where travellers 
 ufually pay their devotions, and pray for a 
 profperous paflage over the lake. About 
 this religious houfe there are a few fifher- 
 men's huts. Two monks conftantly at- 
 tend, to put people in mind of their duty, 
 and receive a fmall gratuity from the paf- 
 fengers. 
 
 Here we found our boats waiting for 
 us below the falls of the Angara. From 
 hence you can fee the lake, burfting out 
 betwixt two high rocks, and tumbling 
 down over huge ftones, that lie quite crofs 
 the river, which I reckon to be about an 
 Englifh mile broad. The whole channel 
 of the river is covered with thefe rocks, 
 from the mouth of the lake down to the 
 Chapel of St Nicolas, about the diftance of 
 an Englifh mile. There is no paflage for the 
 fmalleft boats, except along the eaft fhore, 
 thro' a narrow ftrait, between the rocks and 
 the land. In the moft mallow places, there 
 is about five or fix feet water, and breadth 
 
 all
 
 AJOURNEY 1720: 
 
 all the way fufficient for any fmgle vef- 
 fel. But if, by ftrefs of weather, or any o-r 
 ther accident, a boat fhould have the mifr 
 fortune to mifs this opening, and be thrown 
 upon the rocks, fhe muft immediately be 
 dafhed to pieces, and the whole crew ine- 
 vitably perifh. The waters, darning upon 
 the ftones, make a poife like the roaring of 
 the fea, fo that people near them can 
 fcarce hear one another fpeak. 1 cannot' 
 jexprefs the awful nefs with which one i,s 
 ilruck, at the fight of fuch aftonifhing 
 fcenes of qature as appear round this place, 
 and which, I believe, are not to be equalled 
 in the known world. The pilots and fail- 
 prs who navigate the lake'fpeak of it with 
 much reverence, calling it the Holy Sea,, 
 and the mountains about it the Holy Moun- 
 tains^ and are highly difpleafed with any 
 perfon who fpeaks of it with difrefped:, or 
 calls it a lake. They tell a ftory of a cer- 
 tain pilot who always gave it that appellar 
 4ion, but was feverely punifhed for his con- 
 {empt. Being on a voyage in autumn, he 
 
 and
 
 TO P E K I N. 317 
 
 and his crew were tofled from fide to fide 
 of the lake, till they were half ftarved, and 
 jn great danger of perifhing. Neceflity, at 
 laft, forced this hardy mariner to comply 
 with the prevailing cuftom, and pray to 
 the Holy Sea and Mountains to have com- 
 panion on him in fuch diftrefs. His pray- 
 ers were effectual, and he arrived fafe to 
 land ; but was obferved, ever after, to fpeak 
 of the fea with the greateft refped:. 
 
 The afternoon was fpent in adjufting the 
 tacklej and preparing the barks for being 
 flrawn up the ftrong narrow current. 
 
 The iyth, the wind being contrary, and 
 blowing pretty frefh, the pilots would no.t 
 venture out. I, and three more of our 
 company, took this opportunity of walk- 
 ing up to the top of the mountains, where 
 we had a full view of the fea, and the land 
 to the fouth, on the other fide of it, and 
 alfo to the weft, as far as it extends. The 
 land on the fouth fide of the lake rifes gra- 
 dually, till it terminates in hills moftly co- 
 f ered with wood j but, on the weftern 
 
 fhore^
 
 A JOURNEY i 720 . 
 
 fhore, there are very high mountains, feve- 
 ral whereof are overfpread with deep fnow, 
 which we could eafily difcern, though at a 
 great diftance. 
 
 The Baykall Sea, oppofhe to the mouth 
 of the Selinga, is reckoned about fifty Eng- 
 lifh miles broad, though it is much broader 
 in fome other places, and about three hun- 
 dred miles in length. It is wholly frefh 
 water, and is fupplied by the Selinga, and 
 many other rivers, from the fouth, and by 
 the higher Angara from the eaft. The 
 courfe of the fea is from fouth-weft to 
 north-eaft, and has very few fhelves or 
 rocks. There is only one large ifland, 
 near the middle of it, called Olchon. It is 
 bounded on the north by a ridge of high 
 rocks, which run fiom one end of it to the 
 ether. Th^ only opening by which it dif- 
 charges itfelf is that into the Angara, 
 which, though it is a natural pafiage, ap- 
 pears as if cut through the rocks by art. 
 Jn my opinion, one cannot imagine a more 
 beautiful profpecT: of nature, than is feen 
 
 from
 
 I 7 2o. T O P E K I N. 
 
 from the top of thefe mountains, which 
 may eafily be perceived from the fhort and 
 imperfect fketch I have drawn of it. The 
 woods on the fummit of the rocks are 
 fhort, and thinly fcatteied ; but, on their 
 declivity towards the north, and in the val- 
 leys, the trees become gradually both taller 
 and larger. There is abundance of game 
 and wild beafts in thefe woods, particularly 
 the wild boar, which was the firft of that 
 fpecies we found in this country ; a cer- 
 tain fign of a temperate climace ; for thefe 
 animals cannot endure the exceffive cold 
 in more northerly parts. The hunting of 
 thefe animals being a dangerous kind of 
 fport, we carefully avoided their haunts. In 
 the evening, we returned to our barks at 
 the chapel of St Nicolas. 
 
 The Baykall is abundantly furnimed 
 with various kinds of excellent fifh, parti- 
 cularly fturgeon, and a fifli called omully t 
 in ihape and tafte refembling a herring, but 
 broader and larger. The fea produces alfo 
 great numbers of feals, whofe fkins are 
 
 pre-
 
 AJOURNEV 1725; 
 
 preferred in quality to thofe of feals caught 
 in falt-water. I am of opinion, that both 
 the feals and fifh in the Baykall came ori- 
 ginally from the Northern Ocean, as the 
 communication between them is open, tho* 
 the diftance be very great. 
 
 The feals are generally caught in winter, 
 by ftrong nets hung under the ice. The 
 method they ufe is, to cut many holes in 
 the ice, at certain diftances from one ano- 
 ther, fo that the fiihermen can, with long 
 poles, ftretch their nets from one hole to 
 another, and thus continue them to any 
 diftance. The feals, not being able to bear 
 long confinement under the ice, for want 
 of air, feek thefe holes for relief, and thus 
 entangle themfelves in the nets. Thefe 
 creatures, indeed, commonly make many 
 holes for themfelves, at the fetting in of the 
 frofb In this manner they catch, not only 
 feals, but fifh of all kinds, in winter. 
 
 The 1 8th, the wind being favourable, we 
 put off from St Nicolas's. ' As we had 
 workmen enough, we left part of them on 
 
 board
 
 TO P E K I N. 
 
 / 
 
 board, to aflift the pilot, by fetting poles, 
 while the reft were employed on fhore, in 
 towing the barks againft a ftrong current. 
 In about the fpace of three hours we got 
 clear of the current, add all hands came on 
 board. We were now quite becalmed, and 
 obliged to take to our oars. We rowed a- 
 long fhore to the eaftward till about noen, 
 when we had an eafy breeze, which foon 
 carried us two thirds over the fea, under 
 our main-fail. The wind now chopped a- 
 bout to the eaft, and blew fo frefh, that we 
 could not make the river Selinga, which 
 was the port where we intended to land. 
 As thefe barks cannot turn to windward, we 
 were drove about ten miles to the weft- 
 ward of the Poflblfky monaftery, which 
 ftands about fix miles to the weftward of 
 the Selinga, in a pleafant and fruitful plain, 
 furnifhing an extenfive view in all direc- 
 tions ; where, endeavouring to get to land 
 at any rate, we fleered into a bay, in which 
 We fancied we faw the fhore covered with 
 cocklesfhells or white fand. On a nearer 
 VOL. I. S s approach,
 
 322 A JOURNEY 1720. 
 
 approach, our miftake appeared. For what 
 feemed {hells or fand, at a diftance, was 
 only great and fmall cakes of ice, beating 
 with the waves againft the main body of 
 the ice, which lay firm, and covered the 
 whole bay. Our people, on diftinguiming 
 the ice, immediately ftruck fail, and were 
 in no fmall confufion. But Mr Ifmaeloff 
 ordered the fail to be again fet, and to fteer 
 dire&ly for the ice. In the mean time, all 
 hands were employed in hanging boards a- 
 bout the bow of the veflel, to prevent the 
 cutting of the planks, and in fetting poles 
 to pufh off the large cakes. At laft we 
 came among the ice, which made a terrible 
 rattling at firft ; but the farther we advan- 
 ced, the eafier our bark lay, till we came to 
 the main body of the ice, where fhe re- 
 mained as unmoved as if (he had been in 
 a mill-pond, though it ftill continued to 
 blow hard. We now quitted the fhip, and 
 walked about upon the ice, which was yet 
 ftrong enough to carry horfes. By this 
 time the fun was fet, which prevented our 
 
 defign
 
 1720. TO P E K I N. 323 
 
 defign of going afhore, for the diftance was 
 at leaft five Englifh miles ; and there was 
 a great gap in the ice near the place where 
 we lay. 
 
 About midnight the wind turned wef- 
 terly, and, at break of day, we left our fta- 
 tion, and failed to the eaftward, and, about 
 noon, entered the river Selinga, where we 
 found our other three barks. They ha- 
 ving been two or three miles before us the 
 preceding night, had time enough to reach 
 anchoring ground, and, by this means, e- 
 fcaped the ice, fo little expected at this fea- 
 fon of the year. We ourfelves, before en- 
 tering the bay, had founded, in order to 
 difcover whether we could come to an an- 
 chor ; but no bottom could be found, tho* 
 we joined feveral lead-lines together, a- 
 mounting to above one hundred and fifty 
 fathoms. 
 
 The mouth of the Selinga is furrounded 
 with tall reeds, and contains feveral iflands. 
 The entry into it is very difficult, except 
 the wind be fair, becaufe of many flats and
 
 324 A JOURNEY 1720. 
 
 fand-banks, thrown up by the current of 
 the river. Here we found great flocks of 
 all kinds of water- fowl, particularly fnipes. 
 
 The wind continuing fair, we failed up 
 the river to a rmall oratory, dedicated alfo 
 to St Nicolas, where all hands went afhore 
 to return thanks for their fafe paflage. The 
 prior of the Pofloliky monaftery came to 
 this place to falute the ambaffador, and 
 brought a prefent of fifh, and fuch other 
 provifions as thefe religious houfes afford. 
 
 In the evening we proceeded up the ri- 
 ver, till night overtook us, when we hauled 
 pur boats clofe to the bank, and lay till 
 next morning, which was the 2oth of May. 
 This day being calm, the barks were towed 
 up the river ; and we walked along the 
 banks, hunting all the way in a very plea- 
 fant country. At night we lay by, as for-? 
 merly. 
 
 The 2 1 ft, the weather was very hot. 
 We continued our voyage in the fame 
 planner as before. 
 
 The
 
 I 7 2o. f O P E K I N. 325 
 
 The 22d, the wind being fair, we hoift- 
 ed fails, and in the evening arrived at a 
 large village, well built and peopled, called 
 Kabbanfky Oftrogue. This place is plea- 
 fantly fituated, on a rifing ground upon 
 the weft bank of the river, furrounded 
 with many corn-fields and much pafturage. 
 Here we took new hands on board- our 
 barks, and difmiffed the former to return 
 in open boats to Irkutfky. 
 
 The 25th, we reached another large 
 village called Bolfhoy Zaimka, fituated in 
 a fertile country. In the neighbourhood 
 is a fmall monaftery, and many lefler vil- 
 lages. Many of the Buraty were en- 
 camped, with their flocks and herds, on 
 both fides of the river. 
 
 The climate on this fide of the Baykall 
 kke is much more temperate than on the 
 north fide. The land produces rich crops 
 of wheat, rye, barley, oats, buck-wheat, 
 and peafe ; befides kitchen roots, and o- 
 ther garden fluff. The inhabitants have 
 not yet begun to plant any kind of fruit- 
 trees,
 
 326 AJOURNEY 1720. 
 
 trees, which a I am perfuaded, would thrive 
 exceedingly, as the winters are fhort, and 
 the fnow does not lie above fix weeks or 
 two months. The banks of the river ap- 
 peared very pleafant, being finely varied 
 with plains and woods. 
 
 The 26th, we came to a large town, cal- 
 led Udinfky, from the rivulet Uda, which 
 runs into the Selinga, on the eaft bank. 
 This place alfo ftands in a fertile plain, ha- 
 ving hills covered with woods towards the 
 eaft. In thefe hills are found feveral rich 
 ores, particularly of lead ; in digging which 
 many hands are now employed. The 
 miners fay it is of too hard a quality ; how- 
 ever, they have extracted confiderable 
 quantities of filver from it ; and I have 
 been informed that they alfo found fome 
 veins of filver ore. As thefe works are 
 but lately begun, it is not doubted that they 
 are capable of great improvement, at an 
 eafy charge, as the metal lies fo near the 
 furface. Samples of thefe ores have been 
 fent to St Peterfburgh 5 and, 1 am inform- 
 ed,
 
 1720. T O P E K I N. 327 
 
 ed, his Majefty has engaged fome German 
 miners to make experiments upon them. 
 
 Both here and on the Angara iron is to 
 be found in great abundance at the very 
 furface : But as the diftance is too great 
 for exportation, it is not worth the labour. 
 To fupply the common confumption of the 
 country, the fmith takes his bellows, goes 
 to the mine, and fmelts and works as much 
 iron as he needs. I have feen fome of this 
 iron of an excellent, foft, and pliable qua- 
 lity. 
 
 Befides the above mentioned, there are 
 at this place very rich mines of copper. I 
 have feen fome of the ore with large veins 
 of pure copper running through it. I 
 make no doubt but time and future difco- 
 veries will bring thefe mines to perfection, 
 to the great emolument of the Ruffian em- 
 pire. 
 
 All this country is under the jurifdidion 
 of the commandant of Irkutiky, who fends 
 deputies to all the towns of this extenfive 
 province, to adminifter juftice, and take 
 
 care
 
 A JOURNEY 1720, 
 
 care of his Majefty's revenues. The pow- 
 er of nominating fub-governours and com- 
 mandants, is vefted by his Majefty in the 
 governour of Siberia, which gives him an 
 authority equal to a fovereign prince. 
 
 The ambaffador, finding the progrefs of 
 the boats againft the ftream very flow and 
 tedious, being befides much peftered with 
 gnats and mufkitoes, refolved to go by- 
 land the reft of the way to Selinginfky : 
 For which purpofe, the fuperintendant of 
 this place ordered horfes, and a proper ef- 
 cort, to be got ready againft next morning 
 on the other fide of the river, the road on 
 this fide being interrupted by thick woods 
 and deep rivers. 
 
 The 27th, paving fent off our barks, we 
 crofled the river, and, having no baggage, 
 we foon mounted. The road lay through 
 a fine plain, covered with excellent grafs, 
 In the evening we came to a fountain of 
 pure water, where we lodged in the tents 
 of the Buraty, and flept on bull-hides. 
 
 The
 
 TO P E K I N. 329 
 
 The 28th, early, we proceeded, travel* 
 ling over fome pretty high hills overgrown 
 with wood. About no.on, we came to a 
 river called Orongoy, which we crofled on 
 a tall camel, it being too deep for horfes. 
 At this place we found a number of the 
 Buraty encamped, with their flocks gra- 
 zing in the neighbourhood. 
 
 Our horfes having fwam the river, we 
 went into one of the Buratfky tents till 
 they were dried. The hofpitable landlady 
 immediately fet her kettle on the fire to 
 make us fome tea ; the extraordinary 
 cookery of which I cannot omit defcri- 
 bing. After placing a large iron kettle over 
 the fire, fhe took care to wipe it very clean 
 with a horfe's tail, that hung in a corner 
 of the tent for that purpofe ; then the wa- 
 ter was put into it, and foon after fome 
 coarfe bohea tea, which is got from China, 
 and a little fait. When near boiling, Ihe 
 took a large brafs ladle, and tofled the tea 
 till the liquor turned very brown. It was 
 now taken off the fire, and, after fubfiding 
 
 VOL. I. T t
 
 330 AJOURNEY 1720. 
 
 a little, was poured clear into another vef- 
 fel. The kettle being wiped clean with the 
 horfe's tail as before, was again fet upon 
 the fire. The miftrefs now prepared a 
 pafte, of meal and frefh butter, that hung 
 in a fkin near the horfe's tail, which was 
 put into the tea-kettle and fried. Upon 
 this pafte the tea was again poured, to 
 which was added fome good thick cream, 
 taken out of a clean fheep's fkin, which 
 hung upon a peg among the other things. 
 The ladle was again employed, for the fpace 
 of fix minutes, when the tea, being remo- 
 ved from the fire, was allowed to ftand a 
 while in order to cool. The landlady now 
 
 / 
 
 took fome wooden cups, which held about 
 half a pint each, and ferved her tea to all 
 the company. The principal advantage of 
 this tea is, that it both fatisfies hunger and 
 quenches thirft. I thought it not difagree- 
 able ; but fhould have liked it much better 
 had it been prepared in a manner a little 
 more cleanly. Our bountiful hoftefs, how- 
 ever, gave us a hearty welcome 5 and as 
 
 thefe
 
 1720. TO P E K I N. 331 
 
 thefe people know not the ufe of money, 
 there was nothing to pay for our enter- 
 tainment. We only made her a prefent of 
 a little tobacco to fmoke, of which thefe 
 people are very fond. I have given this 
 receipt with a view that fome European 
 ladies may improve upon it. 
 
 After this fhort repaft, we mounted a- 
 gain ; and, in the evening, came to a neat 
 Ruffian village, on the front of a pleafant 
 hill covered with wood. This place is 
 furrounded with extenfive valleys and fine 
 pafturage, and our accommodation waa 
 better than the preceding night. Here we 
 met Mr Firfoff, colonel of the coflacks, or 
 militia of Selinginfky, with a fquadron of 
 horfe, armed with bows and arrows, and 
 fome firelocks, who came to efcort the 
 ambafTador to that place. 
 
 The 2 Qth of May we mounted early, 
 and, by means of our coffacks, hunted and 
 ranged the woods, as we went along, in 
 the manner of this country, called oblave 
 in the Ruffian language. Their method is 
 
 to
 
 332 AJOURNEY 
 
 to form a femi- circle of horfemen, armed 
 with bows and arrows, in order to inclofe 
 the game. Within the femi- circle a few 
 young men are placed, who give notice 
 when the game is fprung ; thefe only are 
 permitted to purfue, the others being con- 
 fined to keep their ranks. Our coffacks, 
 with their arrows, killed thre.e deer, and fe- 
 veral hares : And, if killing harmlefs ani- 
 mals can be called diyerfion, this may pro- 
 perly be reckoned one of the fineft. After 
 this fafhion they hunt bears, wolves, foxes, 
 and wild boars. 
 
 About noon we came to a village on the 
 Selinga, where we halted a few hours, and 
 then crofled the river in boats, which was 
 near a mile broad at this place. Our cof- 
 facks, however, fought no boats, except one 
 to tranfport their arms, cloaths, and fad- 
 dies ; which being done, all of them mount- 
 ed their horfes, and plunged into the river 
 without the leaft concern. As foon as the 
 horfes were fet a fwimming, for eafe to 
 them the men <Jifm.pun.ted, and, laying hold
 
 I 7 2o. TO P E K I N. 333 
 
 of the mane with one hand, guided them 
 gently by the bridle with the other. This 
 is the common method in this country of 
 tranfporting men and horfes, which I look 
 upon to be both faferand eafy, provided the 
 horfe is managed with a gentle hand, with- 
 out checking him with fudden jerks of the 
 bridle. 
 
 We halted a little, after croffing the ri- 
 ver, till the horfes were dried ; after which 
 we mounted, and, in the evening, arrived 
 at the town of Selinginfky, where we in- 
 tended to wait for our barks, and the reft 
 of our people. 
 
 Selinginfky is fituated on the eaft bank 
 of the noble river Selinga, in a deep, bar- 
 ren, fandy foil, that produces almoft no- 
 thing. The choice of this fituation was 
 extremely injudicious ; for, had the foun- 
 ders gone but half a mile further down, to 
 the place where now the inhabitants have 
 their gardens, they would have had a fi- 
 tuation, in every refpect, preferable to the 
 prefent, 
 
 This
 
 334 A JOURNEY ij 2 o. 
 
 This place confifts of about two hun- 
 dred houfes and two churches, which are 
 all of them built with wood. It is defen- 
 ded by a fortification of ftrong pallifades, 
 on which are mounted forne cannon. 
 
 About a mile eaftward of the town is a 
 ridge of high hills, quite covered ^with 
 wood. *On the other fide of the river the 
 country is open, dry, and fomewhat bar- 
 ren, but affords excellent pafture, particu- 
 larly for fheep, whereof the Buraty, the 
 inhabitants, have large flocks. They are 
 of that kind which hath broad tails ; and 
 their mutton is very good. Thefe people 
 have, befides, a large fort of horned cattle, 
 and abundance of horfes and camels, 
 wherein all their riches confift. Here ends 
 the tribe of the Buraty ; and the nation 
 of the Mongalls begins. 
 
 The Mongalls are a numerous people, 
 and occupy a large extent of country, 
 from this place to the Kallgan, which fig- 
 nines the Everlafting Wall, or the great 
 wall of China. From this wall they ftretch 
 
 them-
 
 I 7 2o. T O P E K I N. 335 
 
 themfelves northward as far as the river 
 Amoor, and from the Amoor weftward to 
 the Baykall Sea, where they border with 
 the territories of the Kontayfha, or prince 
 of the Black Kalmucks. On the fouth, 
 they are bounded by a nation called Ton- 
 guts, among whom the Delay-Lama has 
 his refidence. One may eafily imagine, 
 from the vaft tract of land which the Mon- 
 galls occupy, that they muft be very nu- 
 merous, efpecially when it is confidered, 
 that they live in a healthy climate, and 
 have been engaged in no wars fince they 
 were conquered, partly by the Ruffians on 
 the weft, and partly by the Chinefe on the 
 eaft ; to whom all thefe people are now 
 tributaries. In former times the Mongalls 
 were troublefome neighbours to the Chi- 
 nefe, againft whofe incurfions the great 
 wall was built. 
 
 Kamhi, the prefent Emperor of China 
 was the firft who fubdued thefe hardy Tar- 
 tars, which he effected more by kind ufage 
 and humanity than by his fword ; for thefe 
 
 people
 
 I A JOURNEY 
 
 people are great lovers of liberty. The 
 fame gentle treatment hath been obferved 
 by the Ruffians towards thofe of them who 
 are their fubje&s. And they themfelves 
 confefs, that, under the protection of thefe 
 two mighty Emperors, they enjoy more 
 liberty, and live more at eafe, than they 
 formerly did under their own princes. 
 
 The prefent Prince of Mongalia is called 
 Tufh-du-Chan, and refides about fix days 
 journey to the fouth-eaft from Selinginlky. 
 The place is called Urga, and is near to 
 where the Kutuchtu' or high-prieft inha- 
 bits. When the Mongalls fubmitted them- 
 felves to the Emperor of China, it was a- 
 greed, that the Tufh-du-Chan ihould ftill 
 maintain the name and authority of a prince 
 over his people, ?but undertake no war nor 
 expedition without confent of the Empe- 
 ror ; which has ftri&ly been obferved ever 
 fmce. 
 
 It is very remarkable, that in all the vaft 
 dominions of Mongalia, there is not fo 
 much as a fmgle houfe to be feen. All 
 
 the
 
 1720. TO P E K I N. 337 
 
 the people, even the prince and high-prieft, 
 live conftantly in tents, and remove with 
 their cattle from place to place as conveni- 
 ency requires. 
 
 Thefe people do not trouble themfelves 
 with plowing or digging the ground in 
 any faftiion, but are content with the pro- 
 duce of their flocks. Satisfied with necef- 
 faries, without aiming at fuperfluities, they 
 purfue the mod ancient and fimple manner 
 of life, which, I muft confefs, I think very 
 pleafant in fuch a mild and dry climate. 
 
 From the river Volga to the wall of 
 China there are three great Tartar princes, 
 the Ayuka-Chan, the Kontayfha, and the 
 Tufh-du-Chan. Thefe three mighty na- 
 tions have almoft the fame features, reli- 
 gion, and language, and live in the fame 
 manner. It will eafily be perceived, by 
 cafting an eye on the map, what an extent 
 of territory thefe princes poflefs, whofe 
 fubje&s go by the general name of Kal- 
 mucks. Few languages can carry a travel- 
 ler over a greater extent of country than 
 
 VOL. I. U u that
 
 338 AJOURNEY 1720. 
 
 that of the Kalmucks. With the Arabic, 
 indeed, a perfon may travel through many 
 places of the eaft, from Egypt to the court 
 of the Great Mogul ; but with the Plyric, 
 he can travel much further than with ei- 
 ther of the former, viz. from the Gulf of 
 Venice to the utmoft boundaries of Kamt- 
 zatfka ; for the Ruffian is a dialed of the 
 Illyric. 
 
 The greateft part of Mongalia is one 
 continued wafte, except the places along 
 the Amoor, and towards the Ruffian bor- 
 ders on the weft. The foil alfo to the 
 fouth from Selinginfky, is exceedingly 
 fine, and capable, by proper culture, of 
 producing grain of feveral forts. 
 
 Since I have mentioned the Amoor, I 
 prefume this will be no improper place to 
 give fome account of that river. It is cal- 
 led by the Tartars Shaggalyn-oulla, or the 
 Black Dragon, 1 fuppofe from the colour 
 of its waters, and the windings of its 
 courfe. It is formed of two large rivers, 
 . \vhofe fources are in the defert, far to the 
 
 eaft\\ r ard
 
 1720. TO P E K I N. 339 
 
 eaftward of this place. One is called Ar- 
 gun, which iflues from a lake named De- 
 lay ; the other is Ingoda, on the north 
 bank of which ftands the famous Rufiian 
 town Nertzinfky. The conflux of thefe 
 rivers produces the Amoor, which runs to- 
 wards the eaft, augmenting daily by means 
 of the many great and fmall ftreams it re- 
 ceives, till it becomes one of the largefl 
 rivers in this part of the world, and, after 
 a long courfe, difcharges itfelf into the 
 Eaftern or Chinefe ocean. It is remark- 
 able, that from Cazan to thefe parts, the 
 Amoor is the only river that runs eaft- 
 ward. Moft, if not all, of the great rivers 
 in Siberia have their courfes to the north 
 and north-weft. 
 
 Our barks arrived at Selinginfky on the 
 4th of June. After we had taken out of 
 them what neceflaries we wanted, they 
 were defpatched with the reft of the bag- 
 gage, for their greater fecurity, to his Ma- 
 jefty's ftore-houfes at Strealka, about four 
 
 miles
 
 340 A JOURNEY 1720. 
 
 miles up the river, where the caravan for 
 China then lay. 
 
 In the mean time, the ambaflador wrote 
 a letter to the Allegada, or prime minifter, 
 at the imperial court of Pekin, to notify 
 his arrival, and defire his excellency 
 would give orders for his reception on the 
 borders. This letter was fent to the Prince 
 of Mongalia, to be by him forwarded to 
 court ; for no ftrangers are allowed to tra- 
 vel through his territories to China with- 
 out his permiffion. The officer who car- 
 ried the letter to the prince, was treated 
 with great civility, and his letter immedi- 
 ately fent to court by an exprefs. A few 
 days after, the prince fent two gentlemen, 
 one of whom was a lama, to congratulate 
 the ambaflador on his arrival in thefe parts. 
 They were invited to dine with the am- 
 baflador, and behaved very decently. 
 
 The fame officer, who carried the am- 
 baflador's letter to the Prince of Mongalia 
 at Urga, was ordered to prefent his com- 
 pliments to the Kutuehtu, or high prieft, 
 
 who
 
 1720. TO P E K I N. 
 
 who is a near relation of the prince. He 
 received the officer in a very friendly man- 
 ner, defired him to fit down in his pre- 
 fence ; an honour granted to very few, 
 except ambafladors and pilgrims from re- 
 mote countries ; and, at his departure, 
 gave him a prefent of fo.ne inconfiderable 
 things, particularly a few pieces of Chi- 
 nefe filks. 
 
 I cannot leave this venerable perfonage, 
 without taking fome notice of him. I mail 
 therefore relate a few things concerning 
 him, among thoufands more ridiculous, 
 which the people in this country tell and 
 believe. 
 
 This extraordinary man aflumes to him- 
 felf the character of omnifcience, which is 
 the interpretation of the word Kutuchtu ; 
 and the people are taught to believe that he 
 really knows all things paft, prefent, and fu- 
 ture. As his intelligence, by means of his 
 lamas,is veryextenfive, he is eafily able to im- 
 pofe on the vulgar in this particular. They 
 
 alfo
 
 34* A JOURNEY 1720, 
 
 jalfo believe that he is immortal, not that 
 his body lives always, but that his foul, 
 upon the decay of an old one, immediately 
 tranfmigrates into fome young human bo- 
 dy, which, by certain marks, the lamas 
 difcover to be animated by the foul of the 
 Kutuchtu, and he is accordingly treated as 
 high prieft. 
 
 When the fpirit of the Kutuchtu has ta- 
 ken pofleflion of a new body, that is, in 
 plain Englifh, when he is dead, the lamas 
 are immediately employed to difeover in 
 what part of the world this wonderful per- 
 fon is regenerated, or born again, as they 
 exprefs it. They need, however, go to no 
 great diftance to find him ; for, the affair 
 being previoufly concerted among the chief 
 lamas, they foon determine the choice of a 
 fucceffbr, who generally happens to be a 
 young boy that has been well inftruded 
 how to behave on that occafion. When a 
 fucceflbr is pretended to be found, a com- 
 pany of lamas are fent to examine the 
 matter, who carry along with them many 
 
 toys,
 
 TO P E K I N. 
 
 toys, fuch as fmall filver bells, and things 
 of that nature, which belonged to the for- 
 mer Kutuchtu, intermixed with others that 
 did not. All thefe are laid before the 
 child, who picks out fuch things as belong- 
 ed to his predeceflbr, and difcovers the 
 greateft fondnefs for them, but rejects with 
 difguft whatever is not genuine. Befides 
 this trial, fome queftions are put to him, 
 relative to wars or remarkable events, in 
 his former ftate ; all which are anfwered 
 to the fatisfaction of the conclave ; where- 
 upon he is unanimoufly declared to be the 
 felf-fame Kutuchtu, is conducted with great 
 pomp and ceremony to Urga, and lodged 
 in the tent of the high prieft. 
 
 Till the new Kutuchtu arrives at a cer- 
 tain age, he is entirely under the govern- 
 ment of the lamas, and few are permitted 
 to fee him, except at a great diftance, and 
 even then it is not eafy to get accefs to him. 
 It may feem furprifing, that in fo numerous 
 an aflembly of lamas, no intrigues fhould 
 be carried on, nor difputes arife, among
 
 34* A JOURNEY 
 
 the electors. 'All is conduced without 
 noife or contention. It is, however, ima- 
 gined, that the authority of the prince 
 greatly contributes to their unanimity. 
 
 The Mongalls relate, that their Kutuchtu 
 now has lived fourteen generations, and re- 
 news his age every moon ; for at the new 
 moon he appears like a youth ; when fhe 
 is full, like a full-grown man ; but, when 
 near the change, he is an old man with 
 gray hairs. 
 
 What they call the Urga is the court, or 
 the place where the prince and high prieft 
 refide, who are always encamped at no 
 great diftance from one another. They 
 have feveral thoufand tents about them, 
 which are removed from time to time. The 
 Urga is much frequented by merchants 
 from China and Ruflia, and other places, 
 where all trade is carried on by barter, 
 without money of any kind. The Chinefe 
 bring hither ingots of gold, damaiks, and 
 other filk and cotton fluffs, tea, and fome 
 porcelain, which are generally of an infe- 
 rior.
 
 17.20. TO P E K I N. 345 
 
 rior quality, and proper for fuch a market. 
 The Ruffian commodities are chiefly furs 
 of all forts. Rhubarb is the principal ar- 
 ticle which is exchanged for thefe goods, 
 great quantities whereof are produced in 
 this country without any culture. The 
 Mongalls gather and dry it in autumn, and 
 bring it to this market, where it is bought 
 up, at an eafy rate, both by the Ruffian 
 and Chinefe merchants. 
 
 The Kutuchtu and his lamas are all 
 clothed in yellow ; and no layman is al- 
 lowed to wear this colour except the prince. 
 This mark of diftin&ion makes them, 
 known and refpedted every where. They 
 alfo wear about their neck a (Iring of beads, 
 which are ufed in faying their prayers* 
 The Mongalls believe in and worfhip one 
 Almighty Creator of all things. They 
 hold that the Kutuchtu is God's vicegerent 
 on earth, and that there will be a ftate of 
 future rewards and punimments. 
 
 The following relation, which I had 
 from a Ruffian merchant, to whom the 
 
 VOL. I. X x
 
 346 % A JOURNEY 1720. 
 
 thing happened, will fhow the methods 
 taken by thefe lamas to maintain the digni- 
 ty and character of their mighty high-prieft. 
 This merchant had gone to the Urga, with 
 an intention to trade with the Chinefe. 
 While he was at this place, fome pieces of 
 darnafk were ftolen out of his tent. He 
 made a complaint to fome of the lamas 
 with whom he was acquainted, and the 
 matter was foon brought before the .Kut- 
 uchtu, who immediately ordered proper 
 fteps to be taken with a view to find out 
 the thief. The affair was conducted in this 
 uncommon manner ; one of the lamas took 
 a bench with four feet, which feems to 
 have been of the conjuring kind : After 
 turning it feveral times in different direc- 
 tions, at laft it pointed directly to the tent 
 where the ftolen goods lay concealed. The 
 lama now mounted aftride on the bench, 
 and foon carried it or, as was commonly 
 believed, it carried him to the very tent ; 
 where he ordered the damafk to be produ- 
 ced. The demand was directly complied
 
 I 7 2o. TO P E K I N. 347 
 
 with ; for it is in vain, in fuch cafes, to 
 offer any excufe. 
 
 I (hall now fubjoin a few obfervations 
 on the Delay-Lama, or prieft of the defert, 
 who is reckoned ftill fuperior to the Kut- 
 uchtu. He lives about a month's journey 
 to the fouth-eaft of this place, among a 
 people called the Tonguts, who life a dif- 
 ferent language from the Kalmucks. I 
 am informed that the religion of the Ton- 
 guts is the fame with that of the Mongalls ; 
 that they hold the fame opinions with re- 
 fpect to the tranfmigration .of the Delay- 
 Lama, as the Mongalls do about the Kut- 
 uchtu, and that he is elected in the fame 
 manner. .What appears moft furprifmg is, 
 that thefe two mighty Lamas keep a good 
 correfpondence, and never encroach on one 
 another's privileges. The word delay fig- 
 nifies either the fea, or a great plain, fuch 
 as this prieft inhabits. 
 
 CHAP.
 
 A JOURNEY 1720- 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 Occurrences at Selingln/ky ; fever al 
 parties of hunting ; and journey 
 continued to Saratzyn, the boundary 
 
 between the RuJJlan and Chinefe 
 
 
 
 territories* 
 
 TH E Tonguts are a feparate people, 
 governed by a Prince whom they 
 call Lazin-Chan. One of their princes was 
 lately killed in an engagement with the 
 Kontayfha, King of the Black Kalmucks. 
 The Delay-Lama himfelf narrowly efcaped 
 being taken prifoner, notwithstanding all 
 his forefjght. The Lama threatened the 
 
 Kon-
 
 TO P E K LN. 549 
 
 Kontayfha with many difafters, as the con- 
 fequences of fuch proceedings. The. Kon- 
 tayflia, however, Regarded them tery little, 
 till he had attained his ends ; after which 
 he generoufly reinftated both the Prince and 
 the Delay-Lama in their former dignity. 
 The Kontayfha is of the fame profeffioa 
 ivith the Delay-Lama, and acknowledges 
 his authority in religious matters. 
 
 I am informed there is a third Lama, 
 called Bogdu-Pantzin, of ilill greater au- 
 thority than either of the former. But, as 
 he lives at a great diftance, near the fron- 
 tiers of the Great Mogul, he is little known 
 in thefe parts. Though I am unwilling 
 to throw the leaft reflection on any fociety 
 of men inftituted for the promotion of re- 
 ligion and virtue, from all I can. collect 
 concerning thefe Lamas, they are little 
 better than fhamans of fuperior dignity. 
 
 The anfwer to the letter, which the am- 
 baflador had written to Pekin, was not yet 
 arrived. In the mean time, we were obli- 
 ged to remain at Selinginfky, where we en- 
 tertained
 
 A JOURNEY 1726. 
 
 tertained ourfelves in the beft manner we 
 could. 
 
 June the I2th, walking along the bank 
 of the river, I was a little furprifed at the 
 figure and drefs of a man (landing among 
 a number of boys who were angling for 
 fmall fifties. The perfon bought all the 
 fifties alive, and immediately let them go 
 again into the river, which he did very 
 gently, one by one. The boys were very 
 civil to him, though they looked upon him 
 as diftracted, on account of his behaviour. 
 During this ceremony, he took little notice 
 of me, though I fpoke to him feveral 
 times. I foon perceived, by his drefs, and 
 the ftreak of faffron on his forehead, that 
 he was one of the Brachmans from India. 
 
 After fetting all the fifti a-fwimming, he 
 feemed much pleafed ; and, having learned 
 a little of the Ruffian language, and a fmat- 
 tering of the Portuguefe, began to converfe 7 
 with me, I carried him to my lodgings, 
 and offered to entertain him with a dram ; 
 but he would tafte nothing ; for he faid it 
 
 was
 
 i 7 2o. TO P E K I N. 
 
 was againft the rules of his religion to eat 
 or drink with ftrangers. 
 
 I afked him the reafon why he bought 
 the fiih to let them go again ? He told me, 
 that, perhaps, the fouls of fome of his de- 
 ceafed friends or relations had taken poflef- 
 fion of thefe fifties ; and, upon that fuppo- 
 fition, it was his duty to relieve them : 
 That, according to their law, no animal 
 whatever ought to be killed or eaten ; and 
 they always lived on vegetables. 
 
 After this interview, we became fb fami- 
 liar, that he came every day to vifit me. 
 He was a chearful man, about feventy 
 years of age. He had a bufh of hair grow- 
 ing on his forehead, very much matted, 
 and, at lead fix feet in length. When it 
 hung loofe, it trailed upon the ground be- 
 hind him ; but he commonly wore it wrap- 
 ped about his head, in form of a turban. 
 The hair was not all his own, but collected 
 as relics of his friends, and others of his 
 profeffion, reputed faints; all which he had 
 intermixed and matted with his natural 
 
 hair.
 
 352 AJOURNEY 1720. 
 
 hair. Perfons of this character are called 
 Faquers, and efteemed facred every where. 
 He told me he was a native of Indoftan, 
 and had often been at Madrafs, which he 
 called Chinpatan, and faid it belonged to 
 the Englifli, This circumftance, added to 
 feveral others, made me believe he was no 
 impofr.or, but an innocent kind of creature, 
 as are moft of that feel:. He came to this 
 country, in company with fome others of 
 his countrymen, on a pilgrimage, in order 
 to pay their devotions to the Kutuchtu and 
 Deiay-Lama. They had been twelvemonths 
 on their journey, and had travelled all the 
 way on foot, over many high mountains 
 and wafte deierts, where they were obliged 
 to carry their provifions, and even water, 
 on their backs. I fhowed him a map of 
 Afia, whereon he pointed out the courfe of 
 his journey ; but found many errors in the 
 geography ; and no wonder ; fmce few 
 Europeans would have had the refclution 
 to undertake fuch a journey as this man 
 had done.
 
 1720. TO P E K I N. 353 
 
 The 14-th, a chief named Tayfha, of 
 thofe Mongalls who are fubjedls of his Ma* 
 jefty, came to pay his refpeclis to the am- 
 bailador, who gave him a friendly recep- 
 tion, and kept him to dinner. He was a 
 merry old man, near fourfcore, but fo vi- 
 gorous, that he could mount a horfe with 
 as much agility as many young men. He 
 was accompanied with five fons, and many- 
 attendants, who treated him with equal ie- 
 fpecT: as a king ; and even his fons would 
 not fit down in his prefence, till he defired 
 them. 1 confefs it gave me great pleafure 
 to fee the decency with which they beha- 
 ved. One of our company, a pretty fat man; 
 afked the Tayfha what he mould do in or- 
 der to be as lean as he was ? The old mari 
 replied in thefe few words, " Kat lefs, and 
 work more :" A faying worthy of Hipp0- 
 
 crates himfelf. In his vouth he had been 
 
 j 
 
 engaged in many battles with the Chinefe,- 
 whom he held in great contempt. As he 
 was a keen fportfman, the ambaffador made 
 an appointment with him for a grand hunt- 
 VOL. i. Y y ing
 
 354 A JOURNEY 1720. 
 
 ing match. After which he and his reti- 
 nue returned to their tents. 
 
 The 1 5th, we dined at Strealka with the 
 commiflary, Mr Stepnikoff, of the caravan 
 going to China. Strealka is fituated, as I 
 formerly obferved, about three or four miles 
 up the river from Selinginfey, in a fruitful 
 plain of a triangular figure, formed by the 
 conflux of two fine rivers ; the Strealka, 
 running from the eaft, and the Selinga, 
 from the fouth. This would have been the 
 ftrongeft and moft beautiful fituation of a- 
 ny in this province, for the town of Selin- 
 ginfky. I am informed, that the founders 
 had a view to this delightful place ; but the 
 choice was determined againft them by fu- 
 perflitious lots, to which it was referred. 
 This method of chooflng fituations by lot 
 has hurt many noble cities, and rendered 
 the work of ages ineffectual to remedy the 
 error. 
 
 The fame evening we returned, by wa- 
 ter, to Selinginfky ; and next day went a 
 hunting t the weft of the Selinga. We 
 
 had
 
 1720, TO P E K I N. 355 
 
 had about two hundred Coflacks along 
 with us, who followed the common me- 
 thod of ranging the woods, mentioned a- 
 bove. We killed fix roe-bucks, and many 
 hares. In the evening, we pitched our 
 tents about fountain, and feafted on ve- 
 nifon. 
 
 The 1 6th, early, we left the woods to 
 our right, and defcended into a barren plain, 
 where we found great flocks of antelopes. 
 Our people killed about twenty of them. 
 Thefe animals avoid the woods, and fre- 
 quent the open plains and deferts. They 
 are exceedingly fwift and watchful ; and 
 fo far referable fheep, thatj if one breaks 
 through the circle, the whole flock fol- 
 lows, though an hundred horfemen were 
 in the way, which proves the deftructioa 
 of many of thefe creatures. The noife of 
 the arrows, with which they are hunted, 
 contributes much to their confufion. The 
 heads of thefe arrows are broad, and fixed 
 in a round bit of bone, with two holes in 
 
 '**
 
 356 A JOURNEY 1720. 
 
 it, which make them whittle as they fly- 
 through the air. 
 
 At noon, we fet up our tents near a lake 
 of brackifli water called Solonoy-ofera, or 
 the fait lake. Round the edge lies a thick 
 fcurf of fait, as white as fnow", which the 
 inhabitants gather for ufe. Here we found 
 great flocks of water-fowl ; fuch as fwans, 
 geefe, ducks. The weather being very 
 Jiot, we remained till next day. 
 
 The 1 7th, we hunted along the fame 
 wafte plain, directing our courfe to the 
 fouth, towards the river Selinga. This 
 day alfo we had very good fport. In the 
 afternoon, we pitched our tents near a 
 fpring of frefh water, which is no fmall ra- 
 rity in thefe parched deferts, and is as much 
 regarded here, as a good inn would be in 
 other parts of the world. I found at this 
 place a prickly ihrub, about three feet high, 
 with a beautiful iVnooth bark as yellow as 
 gold. 
 
 The 1 8th, in the morning, we had ter- 
 jfible flafhes of lightning, accompanied with 
 
 thunder.
 
 1720, TO P E K I N. 357 
 
 thunder, and heavy ihowers of hail and 
 rain, which determined us to leave the 
 plains, and return, by the fhorteft road, to 
 Selinginfky. Befides the game already 
 mentioned, we found many large buftarcls, 
 which haunt the open country. As it is a 
 very large bird, and rifes {lowly, our light 
 horfemen killed feveral of them with their 
 arrows. 
 
 The 24th, arrived an officer from the 
 court of Pekin, fent on purpofe to difcover 
 the number and quality of the embaffy. 
 This gentleman, whofe name was Tuliftiin, 
 was a Mantfhu Tartar by birth, and a, 
 member of the tribunal for weftern affairs, 
 with which he was very well acquainted- 
 Thefe officers are called Surgutfky by the 
 Mongalls, and by the Europeans Manda- 
 rin, a Portugtiefe word derived from mail" 
 do. He had formerly been in this coun- 
 try, and had learned the Ruffian language. 
 He pretended to have been employed on 
 jfome bufmefs with the Tufti-du-Chan at 
 yrga, and, hearing of the ambafiador's ar- 
 rival.
 
 358 A JOURNEY 1720; 
 
 rival, had come to pay his refpeds to him. 
 It was, however, well known, that he was 
 fent to inquire whether the ambaflador 
 came on a friendly errand. He was re- 
 ceived very kindly ; and, after he had ftaid 
 three days, and made his obfcrvations, re- 
 turned very well fatisfied. At his depar- 
 ture, he told the ambaflador, that orders 
 would foon be given for his reception on 
 the frontiers ; but thefe could not be iffued 
 till his arrival at court, becaufe on his re- 
 port the whole affair depended. This wife 
 and cautious nation, jealous of all the 
 world, fuffer none to enter their territories 
 but fuch as bring friendly meiTages. By 
 this circumftance we were confined fome 
 time longer at Selinginfky. 
 
 I fhall now give a defcription of the 
 courfe of the Selinga, according to the beft 
 information I could procure from thofe 
 who had been at its fource. The Selinga 
 is formed of two other rivers, called the 
 Idyr and the Tzolato, coming from the 
 mountains of Kungay, far to the fouth- 
 
 ward
 
 TO P E K I N. 35$ 
 
 ward of this place. It is afterwards joined 
 by two inconfiderable rivers, the Orchon 
 from the fouth-eaft, and the Tzida from 
 the fouth-weft, and laftly by the Strealka 
 from the eaft, a little above the town of 
 Selinginfky. At this place it is at leaft 
 twice the breadth of the river Thames, and 
 is navigable a great way above it. The 
 courfe now is due north, till it difcharges 
 itfelf into the Baykall lake. The fource 
 of this river is eftimated at the diftance of 
 ten or twelve days journey above Selin- 
 ginfky, which is the common method of 
 computation in this country. It is plenti- 
 fully furnifhed with variety of excellent 
 fifti. The omuly, which I formerly de- 
 fcribed, come in vaft fhoals from the Bay- 
 kail in autumn up this river to fpawn ; 
 after which, they return to the fea fo weak 
 that many of them are carried down float- 
 ing on the furface of the ftream. During 
 the progrefs of the omuly up the river, the 
 inhabitants of the adjacent villages aflemble 
 with their nets, and catch as many of them 
 
 as
 
 360 A JOURNEY 1720. 
 
 as they pleafe. On this occafion the poor 
 take what they can ufe, and the reft are 
 left upon the banks. Thefe fifties advance 
 up the river about ten miles a-day. On 
 their firft appearance, the report is foon 
 fpread over the country, and, in two or 
 three hours, the people catch as many as 
 they need, either for prefent ufe or winter 
 provifions. This fifh is very agreeable 
 food, either frefli or falted. It is obferved, 
 they are much better and fatter the nearer 
 they are caught to the fea ; a plain argu- 
 ment, that, were they caught in the fea$ 
 they would ftill be preferable to any caught 
 in the river. I have often thought, what 
 ineftimable treafure thefe omuly would 
 produce in other parts of the world, where- 
 as here, the confumption being fmall, they 
 are little valued. It is remarkable, that the 
 omuly are not to be found at any feafon 
 in the Angara, or other rivers to the north 
 of the Baykall. 
 
 July jth, the Taylha-Batyr arrived, in 
 coiifcquence of his appointment with the 
 
 ambaflfador,
 
 1720. TO P E K I N. 361 
 
 ambaflador, and brought along with him 
 three hundred men, well mounted, for the 
 chace. This old gentleman had the appel- 
 lation of Batyr ; a title of great refpeft a- 
 mong the Mongalls. It fignifies a hero, 
 and is conferred only on thofe who have 
 fignalized themfelves by their courage and 
 conduct in the field of battle. Befides thefe 
 Mongalls, we carried with us fifty of our 
 coflacks and our tents, as we propofed to be 
 abroad fome days. 
 
 Early on the 6th, we took our way to 
 the eaftward, over high hills, and through 
 tall woods, having almoft no underwood 
 to incommode the horfes, or interrupt our 
 view, which made it very pleafant. After 
 riding a few miles, the Tayfha, being ma- 
 fter of the chace, ordered his men to ex- 
 tend their lines, The Tayfha and we were 
 in the center, and often faw the game pafs 
 us, purfued by the horfemen, at full fpeed, 
 without the leaft noife, but the whittling 
 of arrows. The horfes, being accuftomed 
 to this kind of fport, follow the game as a 
 
 VOL. I. Z z grey-
 
 .362 A JOURNEY 1720. 
 
 greyhound does a hare ; fo that the riders 
 lay the bridles on their necks, and attend 
 to nothing but their bows and arrows. One 
 may eafily imagine the exquifite entertain- 
 ment, in feeing feveral of thefe horfemen 
 in purfuit of an elk or flag through the 
 valleys. When the animal is driven from 
 the woods, it flies for fafety to the neareft 
 rocks. Some of thefe creatures are nearly 
 as large and flrong as the horfes that hunt 
 them. The flags are of two kinds ; one 
 called zuber, the fame with the German 
 crownhirfh, but fomewhat larger. The 
 zuber is large and beautiful, and carries its 
 head almoft upright as it runs, which pre- 
 vents its horns being entangled with 
 branches of trees. There are none of them 
 in Ruffia, nor even in Siberia, except about 
 the Baykall lake, and eallward from it ; 
 the places farther to the north being too 
 cold for them. The elk is larger than the 
 ftag, and ftrongei made, having alfo long 
 branchy horns, but a little flat. 
 
 Tired
 
 1720. TO P E K I N. 363 
 
 Tired with fport, we left the hills in the 
 afternoon, and came down into a fine val- 
 ley, where we pitched our tents near a pure 
 brook. The Tayfha then ordered all the 
 dead game to be brought before him, and 
 ranged in proper order. We found that 
 this day we killed no lefs than five large 
 elks, four ftags, a dozen roe-bucks, feveral 
 wolves and foxes, befides fawns and hares. 
 
 The Tayfha caufed the game to be di- 
 vided among the huntfmen, who began im- 
 mediately to drefs it, fome of them by 
 boiling, others by broiling, and eat it with- 
 out either bread or fait. The tails of the 
 ftags, which by thefe people are reckoned 
 very delicate, fell to the Tayftia's (hare. 
 He cut them into flices, and eat them raw. 
 I eat a bit of one of them, and thought it 
 very palatable. The tafte refembled no- 
 thing fo much as that of frefh caviare. 
 After we had feafted on variety of excel- 
 lent venifon, for we had no other provi- 
 fions, we went to reft, well fatisfied with 
 the diverfion of the day.
 
 364 AJOURNEY 1720, 
 
 July yth, early in the morning, we left 
 the plains, and directed our courfe eaft- 
 ward, in the fame order we obferved the 
 preceding day. As our fport was much 
 the fame, I need not mention the particu- 
 lars. About noon we pitched our tents, 
 near a fpring of frefh water, in a valley 
 where the grafs was about two feet long. 
 This circumftanee is a proof of the good- 
 nefs of the foil,, which, in my opinion, can- 
 aot fail, if properly cultivated, to produce 
 any kind of grain. As the weather was 
 exceflively hot, we ftaid in this place till- 
 next day. 
 
 July 8th, we continued our fport in the 
 woods till noon, when we came into an 
 extenfive plain-, in which we fet up our 
 tents, near a fpring of brackifh water. In 
 this place we obferved feveral flocks of an- 
 telopes, which we referved for next day's 
 hunting. 
 
 In the morning, our Tayfha difpatched 
 fome of his horfemen to the tops of the 
 hills, in order to difcover where the ante- 
 lopes
 
 1720. TO P E K I N. 365. 
 
 lopes were feeding ; which, as I formerly 
 obfervedj are the moft watchful, and, at 
 the fame time, the fwifteft animals in the 
 world. When they returned, we extended 
 our wings to a great diftance, that we might 
 furround thefe creatures with the greater 
 eafe ; and, before noon, our people killed 
 above twenty of them. After which we 
 returned to our tents that were left ftand- 
 ing in the morning. 
 
 July loth, we took leave of the Tayfha, 
 whofe tents were to the eaft of this place, 
 and returned next day to Selinginfky. 
 
 During this Ihort excurfion, I could not 
 enough admire the beauty of the country 
 through which we pafled. The gentle ri- 
 fmg of the hills, many of which have their 
 tops only covered with wood, and the fer- 
 tility of the vales, contribute to form one 
 of the moft delightful landfcapes the world 
 can afford. To this may be added the 
 temperature and drynefs of the climate, in 
 \vhich refpect this far exceeds any country 
 with which I am acquainted. After mid- 
 
 ' fumraer
 
 3 66 A JOURNEY 1720. 
 
 fummer there is almoft no rain till Decem- 
 ber, when the fnow falls, and in fuch mo- 
 derate quantities that it does not hinder the 
 cattle from lying abroad all the winter. 
 
 In furveying thefe fertile plains and 
 pleafant woods, I have often entertained 
 myfelf with painting, in my own imagina- 
 tion, the neat villages, country-feats, and 
 farm-houfes, which, in procefs of time, 
 may be erected on the banks of the rivers, 
 and brows of the hills. There is here 
 wafte land enough to maintain, with eafy 
 labour, feveral European nations, who are 
 at prefent confined to barren and ungrate- 
 ful foils ; and, with regard to the Mon- 
 galls, whofe honeftyand fimplicity of man- 
 ners are not unamiable, I fhould like them 
 very well for neighbours. 
 
 From what I have read of North Ame- 
 rica, I am of opinion, that this country re- 
 fembles none fo much as fome of our colonies 
 in that quarter of the world, particularly the 
 inland parts of Pennfylvania and Mary- 
 land. Both countries lye nearly in the 
 
 fame
 
 1720. TO P E K I N. 367 
 
 fame latitude ; in the one we find great 
 lakes and mighty rivers ; in the other, the 
 Baykall Sea and rivers, which for the length 
 of their courfe and quantity of water, may 
 be ranked with any in the weftern world. 
 
 Having retted ourfelves a few days after 
 our fatigue, on the i6th of July, we fet 
 out on another hunting-match, attended by 
 our own coflacks, and a few of the neigh- 
 bouring Mongalls. We went on this oc- 
 cafion farther northward, and nearer to the 
 Baykall lake than in our former expedi- 
 tion. Our fport was almoft of the fame 
 kind as already defcribed. I mall only add, 
 that both the flag and elk fhed their horns 
 once a year ; at which time they retire to 
 thickets and folitary places, till their horns 
 begin to fpring again. It is furprifing that 
 animals fo large, with fuch prodigious 
 weight of branchy horns, mould run, with 
 almoft incredible fpeed, through the thick- 
 eft woods, without entangling themfelves : 
 But, to avoid this misfortune, they point 
 their nofes always parallel to the horizon. 
 
 When
 
 AJOURNEY 1720. 
 
 When either the elk or flag are clofely at- 
 tacked, they make a vigorous defence both 
 with horns and hoofs. At rutting time 
 efpecially, thefe creatures are fo very furi- 
 ous, that it is extremely dangerous for any 
 perfon to approach their haunts ; they will 
 then run at a man full fpeed, and, if he 
 efcapes being wounded by their horns, will 
 trample him to death with their fharp 
 hoofs. As the weather was exceflivcly 
 hot, we kept the field only two days, and 
 then returned to Selinginfky. 
 
 July 20th, another Mandarin arrived 
 from Pekin, accompanied by an officer 
 from Arga, who brought a letter to the 
 ambaflador from the Tufh-du-Chan, ac- 
 quainting him, that he might foon expect a 
 perfon, properly authorifed, to conduct him 
 to the imperial city. No news could be 
 more agreeable. We hoped now to fee 
 foon releafed from this folitary place, and 
 arrive* at the end of our journey. We 
 were indeed well enough lodged, and 
 wanted neither the neceflaries nor conveni- 
 
 encies
 
 1720. TO P E K I N. 
 
 encies of life. The abundance of rural di- 
 verfions which this place afforded, coinci- 
 ding happily with the genius of moft of 
 our gentlemen, and the harmony that fub- 
 fifted among the retinue, though compofed 
 of people from moft nations in Europe, and 
 fome from Afia, contributed not a little to 
 our paffing the time very agreeably. Not- 
 withftanding thefe advantages, and the af- 
 fability and courteous behaviour of the 
 ambaflador, which heightened them all, we 
 were uneafy at being detained fo long on 
 the frontiers. We were apprehenfive that 
 fome accident might happen to prevent our 
 journey, efpecially as it was reported a- 
 mong the Mongalls, that the Emperor of 
 China, being far advanced in years, was 
 fometimes fick, and not difpofed to receive 
 foreign minifters. 
 
 The 24th, there fell fuch a fhower of 
 hail-flones as no man then alive had ever 
 feen. It was happy for us we were not 
 then abroad, as the open field affords no 
 kind of fhelter. The hail lay fome days ia 
 
 VOL, I. 3 A
 
 A JOURNEY 1720. 
 
 the .woods and cooled the air, which before 
 that time had been exceffively hot. This 
 day the Kutuchtu fent two lamas to com- 
 pliment the ambaflador, to wifh him a good 
 journey, and a happy fight of the Empe- 
 ror, or Boghdoy-chan, as he is called by 
 thefe people. 
 
 Auguft 9th, a courier arrived from Pe- 
 kin, who told the ambaflador that he had 
 pafled our conductor on the road, and that 
 we fliould now prepare for our journey to 
 the capital, as that gentleman would arrive 
 in a few days. 
 
 On the 24th, our conductor, called Lo- 
 my, at laft arrived. He was by birth a 
 Mantfhu Tartar, and a member of the court 
 for the weftern department. After remain- 
 ing with us for fome days, he returned to 
 Yolla, a place upon the border, in order to 
 procure horfes and camels for our jour- 
 ney. 
 
 September 8th, we fent our baggage by 
 water to Strealka, and next day we follow- 
 ed it. We lived in tents, while we ftaid at 
 
 this
 
 1720. TO P E K I N. 371 
 
 this place, till horfes and camels were got 
 ready. In the mean time, our people were 
 employed in packing up the baggage into 
 proper loads for camels. Strealka, I for- 
 merly obferved, is the place where his Ma- 
 jefty's commiflary of the caravan has his 
 abode, and the government of Siberia their 
 ftore-houfes. I imagine, therefore, it will 
 not be improper, before we proceed, to 
 give fome account of the trade carried on 
 from this place. 
 
 Formerly the far trade was free to all 
 his Majefty's fubje&s, both Ruffians and 
 Tartars. The merchants repaired to Sibe- 
 ria at the proper feafons, where they bought* 
 at cheap rates, all the rich furs they could 
 find, and difpofed of them in Perfia, Tur- 
 key, and Poland, at a price much below the 
 real value. The government of Siberia 
 perceived a very confiderable diminution 
 of the revenue in that country, and foon 
 difcovered the true caufe of it ; which was^ 
 that a great part of the furs belonging to 
 his Majefty remained unfold. Upon in-
 
 372 AJOURNEY 1720. 
 
 quiry, it appeared that this was owing to 
 the foreign markets being fupplied with 
 thefe commodities at low rates, by the fub- 
 jecls, before the goods belonging to the 
 government could be expofed to fale. The 
 government of Siberia reprefented to his 
 Majefty the lofs of fo confiderable a branch 
 of his revenue ; in confequence of which, 
 an order was immediately iflued, prohibit- 
 ing all private perfons for the future to 
 export fables in particular. Since this re- 
 gulation took place, the government have 
 fent their own furs, generally once in three 
 years, by caravans to China. The value 
 of one of thefe caravans is reckoned to a- 
 mount to four or five thoufand roubles, 
 and yields a return of at leaft double that 
 fum. The Emperor of China, from regard 
 to the friendfhip and good neighbourhood 
 of his Majefty, gives the caravans free 
 quarters, and liberty to difpofe of their 
 goods, and buy others, without exacting 
 any impoft. At firft the Emperor not on- 
 ly gave the caravan free quarters, but alfo 
 
 maintained,
 
 TO P E K I N. 373 
 
 maintained, at his own charge, both men 
 and horfes during their ftay in Pekin. This 
 laft expreflion of his Majefty's bounty is, 
 however, now withdrawn. 
 
 September I5th, our conductor having 
 acquainted the ambaflador that the horfes 
 and camels were ready, our baggage was 
 defpatched to the frontiers, efcorted by 
 our own foldiers and fome Coflacks ; tho" 
 indeed there was no great occafion for any 
 guard, as the Mongalls feem to have little 
 ufe for any thing that belonged to us. 
 
 After dining with the commiflary of flie 
 caravan at Strealka, on the i8th, we left 
 that place in the evening, accompanied 
 with the commiflary and moft of the offi- 
 cers at Selinginfky. After we had travel- 
 led about twenty Englifh miles to the 
 fouth-eaft, through fine plains, covered 
 with exceeding long grafs, we arrived at 
 the end of the firft ftage called Kolludtzy, 
 where we found our tents, which had been 
 fent off in the morning, ready for our re- 
 ception.
 
 374 A JOURNEY 1720, 
 
 ception. This day we faw fome fcattcred 
 tents of Mongalians with their flocks. 
 
 Next day we travelled about twenty 
 miles farther to a fmgle houfe, built by the 
 commiflary for a fhade to his cattle in win- 
 ter. We hunted all the way through a 
 pleafant country, interfperfed with little 
 hills covered with wood, but faw as few 
 inhabitants as the day before. 
 
 The 2oth, about noon, we reached a 
 place called Saratzyn, or the New Moon, 
 fituated on the bank of a rivulet of the fame 
 name. This rivulet is the boundary be- 
 tween the Ruffian and Chinefe territories, 
 and feparates two of the moft mighty mo- 
 narchies in the world. The diftance be- 
 tween Selinginfky and this place is com- 
 puted to be about one hundred and four 
 verft, nearly feventy Englifh miles. 
 
 The conductor was encamped on the eaft 
 fide of the rivulet, and we pitched our tents 
 on the other. The ground on both fides 
 rifes a little, and the foil feems to be ex- 
 tremely good. The grafs is rank and thick, 
 
 and
 
 1720. TO P E K I N. 375 
 
 and as the feafon is very dry, would, with 
 little labour, make excellent hay. This 
 grafs is often fet on fire by the Mongalls 
 in the fpring during high winds. At fuch 
 times it burns moft furioufly, running like 
 wild-fire, and fpreading its flames to the 
 diftance of perhaps ten or twenty miles, 
 till its progrefs is interrupted by fome river 
 or barren hill. The impetuofity of thefe 
 flames, their fmoke and crackling noife, 
 cannot eafily be conceived by thofe who 
 have not feen them. When any perfon 
 finds himfelf to the leeward of them, the 
 only method by which he can fave himfelf 
 from their fury, is to kindle immediately 
 the grafs where he ftands, and follow his 
 own fire. For this purpofe, every perfon 
 is provided with flints, fteel, and tinder. 
 The reafon why the Mongalls fet fire to 
 the grafs, is to procure early pafture for 
 their cattle. The afhes left upon the ground 
 fink into the earth at the melting of the 
 fnow, and prove an excellent manure ; fo 
 that the grafs in the fpring rifes on the 
 
 lands,
 
 A JOURNEY , 720 ; 
 
 lands, which have been prepared in this 
 manner, as thick as a field of wheat. Ca- 
 ravans, travellers with merchandife, but e- 
 fpecially armies, never encamp upon this 
 rank grafs. And there are feveral inftan- 
 ces of confiderable bodies of men being put 
 in confufion, and even defeated, by the 
 enemy's fetting fire to the grafs. 
 
 Before I leave the Ruffian territories, I 
 fhall give fome account of the marches be- 
 tween thefe two famous empires. The 
 frontier, according to the beft information 
 I could procure, begins a great way weft- 
 ward of this place, near the fource of the 
 river Dzida ; from thence it proceeds to 
 the eaft, crofling the Selinga, and runs a- 
 long the tops of the hills, inclining fome- 
 times to the north, and fometimes to the 
 fouth, till it meets with the rivulet Sarat- 
 zyn. It runs then in a very irregular line, 
 varying its direction according to the courfe 
 of the rivers and brooks, or from the top 
 of one 1 hill to fome other remarkable point 
 in view', pointing in general towards the 
 
 north'
 
 1720. T O P E K I N. 377 
 
 north- eaft, till it ends at the river Argun, 
 which, together with the Ingoda, forms 
 the Amoor. This boundary includes a 
 vaft tract of excellent land on the Ruffian 
 fide ; and that part of the Mongalls who 
 inhabit it, being (lout men, and living much 
 at cafe, will in time become a numerous 
 people. 
 
 The marches were fettled upon the pre- 
 fent footing about twenty-five years ago, 
 on the following occafion : The Mongalls, 
 on the Chinefe fide, alledged, that their 
 countrymen, fubjects of Ruffia, encroached 
 on their borders, which created fome dif- 
 putes between the two nations. The 
 cauies of this mifunderftanding being re- 
 prefented to the two courts, it was agreed 
 to fend minifters, with full powers to ter- 
 minate the affair in an amicable manner. 
 His Majefty's minifter, Theodore Alexio- 
 vitz Golovin, met the Chinefe plenipoten- 
 tiaries, on the frontiers, in the neighbour- 
 hood of Nertfhinfky, a confiderable town 
 belonging to Ruffia, near the river Amoor. 
 
 VOL. I. 3B AH
 
 378 AJOURNEY 1720. 
 
 All matters were foon accommodated, to 
 the mutual fatisfaction of both parties, on 
 the footing of uti poffidetis ; i. e. each of 
 the parties retaining the people and territo- 
 ries that then belonged to them. 
 
 This determination kept all quiet for 
 fome time. The Chinefe, however, foon 
 appeared to be diflatisfied with the decir 
 fion, and want to have the marches review- 
 ed ; to which, in my opinion, the Ruffians 
 will not eafily aflent. 
 
 The 2 1 ft, the conductor came to con- 
 gratulate the ambaflador on his arrival at 
 the borders, and acquainted him, that the 
 horfes and camels being ready, he might 
 proceed when he pleafed. I cannot omit 
 an inconfiderable circumftance that hap- 
 pened at this place, as it ftrongly reprefents 
 the caution and prudence of the Chinefe. 
 Our conductor, having feen fome women 
 walking in the fields, afked the ambaflador 
 who they were, and whither they were 
 going ? He was told they belonged to the 
 
 retinuej
 
 1720. TO P E K I N. 379 
 
 retinue, and were going along with it to 
 China. 
 
 He replied, they had women enough in 
 Pekin already ; and as there never had been 
 an European womin in China, he could 
 not be anfwerable for introducing the fir.ft, 
 without a fpecial order from the Emperor. 
 But if his Excellency would wait for an 
 anfwer, he would defpatch a courier to court 
 for that purpofe. The return of this mef- 
 fenger could not be fooner than fix weeks ; 
 it was therefore thought more expedient to 
 fend back the women to Selinginfky, with 
 the waggons that brought our baggage to 
 this place. 
 
 CHAP.
 
 A JOURNEY 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 From pacing the Sarateyn, and en- 
 tering the Chinefe territories^ to 
 our arrival at the wall of China. 
 
 THE 22d of September, having loaded 
 the camels with our baggage, and 
 procured carriages for the boxes that con- 
 tained his Majefty's prefents to the Empe- 
 ror, which were too large for camels to 
 bear, we mounted and pafled the Saratzyn, 
 and foon entered the Chinefe territories. 
 We travelled fifteen miles, when we ar- 
 rived, about evening, at the river Orchon, 
 running with a fmooth dream to the north. 
 
 The
 
 1720. T O P E K I N. 381 
 
 The carriages retarded our progrefs greatly, 
 as the horfes were fprightly, and unaccuf- 
 tomed to draught . 
 
 This day we commenced guefts of the 
 Emperor of China, who entertains all am- 
 bafladors, and bears their expences, from 
 the day they enter his dominions, till the 
 lime they quit them again. Our retinue 
 confifted of about one hundred perfons, 
 who were allowed fifteen fheep every d#y. 
 The overplus of this large allowance was 
 given to the Mongalls who drove the ca- 
 mels. Befides mutton and beef, there is 
 no other kind of provifion to be found, till 
 you come within the wall of China. The 
 mutton is of a middle fize ; but, I muft 
 confefs, exceeding fine. The conductor 
 was attended by an officer from the Tufh- 
 du-Chan, who procured, from the Mon- 
 galls encamped nearefl our road, what iheep 
 we wanted. The camels were very trac- 
 table, and (looped to take on their loads. 
 But the horfes xvere at fir ft very unma- 
 nageable. Many of them had never before 
 
 been
 
 384 A JOURNEY 172*. 
 
 been employed for any ufe, and were fad- 
 died with great difficulty, but mounted 
 with much more ; for the very fmell of 
 our cloaths, which they perceived to be 
 different from that of the Mongalls, their 
 matters, made them fnort and fpring with 
 great fury. They were eafily managed, 
 notwithftanding, when we got upon their 
 backs. 
 
 Our road this day lay through fine plains 
 and vallies, covered with rank grafs ; but 
 not a fingle tent was to be feen. 1 inquired 
 why fuch a fine foil was without inhabi- 
 tants, and was told, that the Chinefe had 
 forbid the Mongalls to encamp fo near the 
 Ruffian borders, for fear of being allured 
 to pafs over to their territories, as many 
 had formerly done. Thefe fruitful vallies 
 are furrounded with pleafant hills, of eafy 
 afcent, whofe fummits are covered with 
 tufts of trees. Many of thefe tufts being 
 of a circular figure, and having no under- 
 wood, appear as if they had been planted 
 and pruned by art ; others are irregular, 
 
 and
 
 1720. TO P E K I N. 383 
 
 and fometimes a ridge of trees runs from 
 one hill to another. Thefe objeds afford 
 a profped fo pleafing to the eye, and fo 
 feldom to be found, that one cannot help 
 being charmed. And this pleafure is ftill 
 heightened by the gentle-flowing rivulets, 
 abounding with fifh, and plenty of game in 
 the vallies, and among the trees. 
 
 The 23d, we fet out early, and came to 
 a rivulet called Ira, running to the north- 
 weft, till it falls into the Orchon, which 
 we panned, and pitched our tents on the o- 
 ther fide. The rank grafs by accident took 
 fire, and had not water been at hand to 
 extinguifh it, and the weather very calm, 
 the confequences might have been fatal. 
 We travelled farther this day than the for- 
 mer, as fewer inconveniencies arofe from 
 the reftifnefs of the horfes. 
 
 The 24th, we continued our journey to- 
 wards the fouth-eaft, along fmooth roads, 
 through a pleafant country ; and, at eve- 
 ning, reached a rivulet called Shara, or the 
 yellow rivulet, on the banks of which we 
 
 fet
 
 384 A JOURNEY 1720. 
 
 fet up our tents. The vallies now were 
 more contracted, and lefs wood upon the 
 hills than formerly. 
 
 The 25th, we came to a rivulet called 
 Kara, or the black rivulet, from the colour 
 of the water> which is tinged by the rich- 
 nefs of the foil. 
 
 The 26th, we proceeded. The country 
 retained much the fame appearance, and 
 the weather was very fine ; but not a fingle 
 inhabitant was yet to be feen. In the eve- 
 ning, I walked from our tents, with fome 
 of our company, to the top of a neighbour- 
 ing hill, where 1 found many plants of ex- 
 cellent rhubarb j and, by the help of a 
 flick, dug up as much of it as I wanted. 
 
 On thefe hills are a great number of a- 
 nimals called marmots, of a brownifti co- 
 lour, having feet like a badger, and nearly 
 of the fame fize. They make deep bur- 
 rows on the declivities of the hills ; and it 
 is faid, that in winter they continue in thefe 
 holes, for a certain time, even without 
 food. At this feafon, however, they fit or 
 
 lie
 
 j 7 20. TO P E K I N. 385 
 
 lie near their burrows, keeping a ftrict 
 watch ; and, at the approach of danger, 
 rear themfelves upon their hind-feet, gi- 
 ving a loud whittle, like a man, to call in 
 the ftragglers ; and then drop into their 
 holes in a moment. 
 
 I mould not have mentioned an animal 
 fo well known as the marmot, had it not 
 been on account of the rhubarb- Where- 
 ever you fee ten or twenty plants grow- 
 ing) 7 OU are fure of finding feveral bur- 
 rows under the fhades of their broad fpread- 
 ing leaves. Perhaps they may fometimes 
 eat the leaves and roots of this plant. 
 However, it is probable the manure they 
 leave about the roots contributes not a little 
 to its increafe ; and their cafting up the 
 earth makes it fhoot out young buds and 
 multiply. This plant does not run and 
 fpread itfdf like docks, and others of-the 
 fame fpecies, but grows in tufts at uncer- 
 tain diftarices, as if the feeds had been 
 dropped with defign. It appears that the 
 Mongalls never accounted it \vorth culti- 
 
 VOL. I. 3 C vating,
 
 A JOURNEY 1720. 
 
 vating, but that the world is obliged to the 
 marmots for the quantities fcattered at 
 random in many parts of this country ; for 
 whatever part of the ripe feed happens to 
 be blown among the thick grafs can very 
 feldom reach the ground, but muft there 
 wither and die ; whereas, fhould it fall a- 
 mong the loofe earth, thrown up by the 
 marmots, it immediately takes root, and 
 produces a new plant. 
 
 After digging and gathering the rhubartf, 
 
 the Mongalls cut the large roots into fmali 
 
 pieces, in order to make them dry more 
 
 readily. In the middle of every piece they 
 
 fcoop a hole, through which a cord is 
 
 drawn, in order to fufpend them in any 
 
 convenient place. They hang them, for 
 
 moft part, about their tents, and fomedmes 
 
 on the horns of their Iheep. This is a 
 
 moft pernicious cuftorn, as it deftroys fome 
 
 of the bed part of the root ; for all about 
 
 the hole is rotten and ufelefs ; whereas, 
 
 were people rightly informed how to dig 
 
 and dry this plant, there would not be one 
 
 pound
 
 1720. T O P E K I N. 387 
 
 pound of refufe in an hundred, which 
 would fave a great deal of trouble and ex- 
 pence, that much diminifh the profits on 
 this commodity. At prefent, the dealers 
 in this article think thefe improvements not 
 worthy of their attention, as their gains 
 are more confiderable on this than on any 
 other branch of trade. Perhaps the go- 
 vernment may hereafter think it proper to 
 make fome regulations with regard to this 
 matter. 
 
 I have been more particular in defcribing 
 the growth and management of the rhu- 
 barb ; becaufe I never met with an author 
 or perfon who could give a fatisfactory 
 account where, or how it grows. I am 
 perfuaded, that, in fuch a dry climate as 
 this, it might eafily be fo cultivated as to 
 produce any quantity that could be want- 
 ed. 
 
 I omit any computation of the diftances 
 of places along this road, as the whole of 
 it from the borders to Pekin has been mea- 
 fured by a wheel, or machine, given to the 
 
 caravan
 
 3 88 AJOURNEY 1720. 
 
 caravan by the governour of Siberia for that 
 purpofe^ I fhall afterwards fubjoin the ex- 
 act diftances taken from this meafurement. 
 
 The 2^th and 28th we purfued the fame 
 road, over hills and through vallies : For, 
 tho' few travel this way, the caravans, with 
 their heavy carnages, leave fuch marks as 
 are not foon effaced. It is only of late that 
 the caravans travelled this road. Former- 
 ly they went farther to the north, by a 
 Ruffian town called Nertzinfky, and thence 
 to a Chinefe city called Naun. That road 
 is more convenient than the prefent, as it 
 lies through places better inhabited ; but 
 the prefent is fhorter, and therefore taken 
 by moft travellers. 
 
 The 29th, we reached a river called 
 Buroy, where we lodged. At this dry fea- 
 fon all thefe rivers are fordable ; and they 
 abound with fturgeon and other fi(h. Next 
 morning, Mr Venant, our chief cook, 
 dropped down, as he was coming out of 
 his tent, and immediately expired, not- 
 \vithftanding all poffible care was taken for 
 
 his
 
 I 7 2o. TO P E K I N. 389 
 
 his recovery. We interred him as decent- 
 ly as time and circumftances would ad- 
 mit, and proceeded to a river called Bor- 
 gualty, where we pitched our tents for this 
 night. 
 
 October ift, after a long day's journey, 
 we reached a rivulet called Koyra. The 
 face of the country appeared nearly the 
 fame as formerly. 
 
 The 2d, after another long march, we 
 came to the banks of the river Tola, the 
 largeft we had feen fmce we left the Se- 
 linga. 
 
 Next day we crofled the Tola at a pretty 
 deep ford, where the river was in breadth 
 about the flight of an arrow at point 
 blank. It was noon before our camels got 
 over, and too late to proceed. We were 
 therefore obliged to fet up our tents on the 
 eaft bank of the river, which was over- 
 grown with tall oziers. 
 
 Here our conductor furnifhed us with 
 frefh horfes and camels. From the bor- 
 ders to this place our ftages were regulated 
 
 by
 
 A JOURNEY 1720, 
 
 by brooks and rivers, for the conveniency 
 of getting water : And, for the fame rea- 
 fon, as there are no rivers nor brooks from 
 hence to the wall of China, fountains and 
 iprings will be our only ftages. 
 
 On the banks of the Tola we found 
 many Mongalls encamped, with numerous 
 flocks of cattle, being the firft inhabitants 
 we had feen fince our leaving the border. 
 The Ruffians, and the Mongalls who are 
 fubjeds of Ruffia, claim all the country 
 
 4 
 
 weftward from the Tola, which, they fay, 
 is the natural boundary between the two 
 empires. This would indeed be a confi- 
 derable addition to the dominions of Ruf- 
 fia ; But as both thefe mighty monarchs 
 are abundantly provided with a vaft extent 
 of territory, neither party think it worth 
 while to difpute about a few hundred miles 
 of property, which obtained would perhaps 
 not balance the coft, or contribute but lit- 
 tle to the advantage of either. 
 
 The appearance of the country was now 
 greatly altered to the worfe. We faw no 
 
 more
 
 1 7 2o. TO P E K I N. 39 1 
 
 more pleafant hills and woods ; neither 
 could I find one Tingle plant of rhubarb. 
 The foil was dry and barren, and the grafs 
 not to be compared to what we had already 
 pafied over. 
 
 The 4th, after every man had drunk his 
 fill of the pure and wholefome water of 
 Tola, and filled his bottle with it, we de- 
 parted with fome regret, as we could hope 
 for no more rivers or brooks till we came 
 to the wall of China. We foon entered the 
 defert commonly named by the Mongalls 
 the Hungry Defert. How far it deferves 
 that title, will be feen as we advance. 
 
 In the evening, we reached fome pits, 
 called Tola-tologoy, of brackifh water, 
 where we pitched our tents. The road 
 ftill pointed to the fouth-eaft, with little 
 variation, over grounds that rofe a little at 
 firft, but afterwards gradually declined* 
 We faw many Mongalian tents and cattle 
 difperfed along the defert. 
 
 The jth, we fet out again, and, in the 
 evening, came to fome fountains, called 
 
 Ghelo-
 
 A JOURNEY 1720. 
 
 Chelo-tologoy, of pretty frefh water. The 
 country was quite level, and appeared to 
 the eye as plain as the fea. The foil was 
 dry, barren, and gravelly, and neither tree 
 nor bulh to be feen ; a profpect not very 
 agreeable, 
 
 The 6th, early in the morning, we pro- 
 ceeded eaftward, through the fame fort of 
 flat country. The weather was very fine, 
 and the roads excellent. In the evening, 
 we arrived at a pool, called Tylack, of 
 brackifti water, where we remained the 
 following night. This day we faw feveral 
 large flocks of antelopes, and fome Mon- 
 galls in their tents, which was no difagree- 
 able object in this continued plain. We 
 pafTed few of thefe tents without vifiting 
 them, where we always found an hofpi- 
 table reception, and were entertained with 
 fome zaturan, a kind of tea which I for- 
 merly defcribed. And, if we happened to 
 ftay till our baggage was gone out of fight, 
 the landlord conduced us by the fhorteft 
 
 way
 
 1720. T O P E K I N. 393 
 
 xvay to the fprings that terminated the next 
 ftage. 
 
 The next day, we came to the wells 
 called Gachun. Our bifcuit being now 
 fpent, we were reduced to live on mutton 
 only, during the reft of our journey thro* 
 this defert ; which we accounted no great 
 hardfhip, as it was extremely fine. It is 
 not a little furprifing, that, notwithftand- 
 ing the barren appearance of this unfhelter- 
 ed plain, the cattle are in good condition, 
 but particularly the fheep. The {hort 
 grafs, though in many places thinly fcatter- 
 ed, muft be of a very nourifhing quality. 
 This will naturally proceed from the cli- 
 mate, and the foil, which every where par- 
 takes of a nitrous quality, as plainly ap- 
 pears from the fcurf of fait round the edges 
 of the lakes and ponds, and the tafte of the 
 water, generally brackifh in the fprings and 
 pits. 
 
 The 8th, our conductor furnimed us 
 with a frefh fet of cattle, which- detained 
 us later than our ufual time of felting out. 
 
 VOL. I. 3 D This
 
 394 A JOURNEY 1720. 
 
 This day, the foil was very much inclined 
 to gravel, containing a number of red and 
 yellow pebbles, many of which being tran- 
 fparent, made a fine appearance while the 
 fun fhone. We were informed there were 
 fometimes ftones of value found here, 
 which fo much excited our curiofity, that 
 each of us, every day, picked up a confi- 
 derable quantity. On examination, moft 
 of them were thrown away, as altogether 
 ufelefs ; the few we thought proper to re- 
 tain were wrought into very good feals. A 
 man might gather a bulhel of fuch ftones e- 
 veryday in this defert. One of our people, 
 a Grecian by birth, who underftood fome- 
 thing of the nature of ftones, found one 
 that he called a yellow fapphire, and valued 
 it at fifty crowns, perhaps thefe pebbles 
 might be of that kind which the lapidaries 
 call cornelian ; for they are fufficiently 
 hard, and take a fine polim. 
 
 The gth, we fet out early, and travelled 
 to a pool named Oko-toulgu. This day, 
 a lama from the Kutuchtu, going to Pekin,
 
 r-720. TO P E K I N. 395 
 
 joined our company, who, by his habit and 
 equipage, feemed to be a perfon of emi- 
 nence. In marching along the tedious de- 
 fert, the converfation turned on a terrible 
 earthquake, which happened during the 
 month of July laft in China, between' the 
 long wall and Pekin, and had laid in ruins 
 feveral villages and walled towns, and bu- 
 ried many people in their ruins. The la- 
 ma inquired what was the opinion of the 
 learned men in Europe concerning the 
 caufe of this phaenomenon. We told him, 
 it was commonly reckoned to be fubterra- 
 neous fire ; and then afked, in our turn, 
 to what caufe fuch extraordinary appearan- 
 ces were imputed by his countrymen ? He 
 replied, that fome of their learned lamas had 
 written, that God, after he had formed the 
 earth, placed it on a golden frog ; and, when- 
 ever this prodigious frog had occafion to 
 fcratch its head, or ftretch out its foot, that 
 part of the earth immediately above was ma- 
 ken. There was no reafoning on a notion 
 fo fantaftical ; we therefore left the lama to 
 
 pleafe
 
 396 A JOURNEY 1720, 
 
 pleafe himfelf with his hypothefis, and 
 turned the difcourfe to fome other fubject. 
 
 The loth, we came to the fprings called 
 Korpartu. The appearance of things this 
 day were almoft the fame as on the prece- 
 ding days. The foil appeared fo barren, that 
 none of the common methods of improve- 
 ment could make it bear any kind of grain, 
 or even alter its prefent condition. The 
 difpofitions of its inhabitants, the Mon- 
 galls, feem wonderfully fuited to their fitu- 
 ation, as they appear more contented with 
 their condition than thofe who poflefs the 
 inoft fruitful countries. 
 
 In the evening of the nth, we arrived 
 at Khododu, where we found the water 
 clear, and pretty frefli, burfting, in aftrong 
 fpring, from the gravelly earth, and run- 
 ning in a dream to a confiderable diftance, 
 till it lofes itfelf in the fand. This was the 
 firft running water we had feen fince we 
 left the Tola. And we were as happy, 
 while fitting round this fountain, and broil- 
 ing our mutton-chops, as others at a table 
 
 plen-
 
 1720. TO P E K I N. 397 
 
 plentifully furnifhed with Burgundy and 
 Champaign. Our appetites were indeed 
 very keen ; to which daily exercife> the 
 coldnefs of the air, and drinking nothing 
 but water, greatly contributed. 
 
 Next morning, being the I2th, there 
 was a little froft upon the ground. Seve- 
 ral flocks of gray plovers came to drink 
 at the fpring, of which our people killed 
 as many as our prefent circumftances re- 
 quired. Thefe poor harmlefs birds feemed 
 infenfible of danger ; and, perhaps, they 
 had never before heard the report of a gun ; 
 for, no fooner was the piece fired, than 
 they took a fhort flight round the foun- 
 tain, whittling as they flew, and immedi- 
 ately alighted to drink again. The plover 
 is a pretty bird, and pleafant to eat ; and 
 the foles of its feet are as hard as fo much 
 horn, which prevent its being hurt by the 
 ftones or gravel. In the evening, we came 
 to the wells called Bouk-horlike, without 
 any thing material happening, or any dif- 
 ference on the face of the country. 
 
 The
 
 398 A JOURNEY 1720, 
 
 The 1 3th, we continued our journey to 
 the wells of Buduruy, where we were a- 
 gain furnifhed with frefh horfes and ca- 
 mels. 
 
 The 1 4th, we came to a place called Ka- 
 dan-Kachu, where we were obliged to dig 
 a pit, four feet deep, in order to procure 
 water ; which was very bad, having both 
 a difagreeable fmell, and bitter tafte ; but 
 was drinkable, when boiled with fome tea. 
 We could, however, get none for our 
 cattle, as the high wind rilled the pits with 
 fand as faft as we could dig them. This 
 fand is of a whitifh colour, and fo light 
 and dry, that it is driven by the winds into 
 your face and eyes, and becomes very dif- 
 agreeable. Moft of our people, indeed, 
 were provided with a piece of net-work, 
 made of horfe-hair, which covered their 
 eyes, and is very ufeful in drifts, cither of 
 fand or fnow. 
 
 The ijth, we travelled over deep fands; 
 and in the evening arrived at other fprings, 
 called Tzagan-teggerick. The wind conti- 
 nuing
 
 TO P E K I N. 399 
 
 nuing high, it was with much difficulty we 
 fet up our tents. It is to be obferved that, 
 on thefe deep and light fands, our Euro- 
 pean tents are of little ufe, as there is no 
 earth in which the tent-pins can be fatten- 
 ed. The Tartar tents are much preferable ; 
 for, their figure being round and taper, like 
 a bee-hive, the wind takes but little hold of 
 them, and they ftand equally well on a 
 fandy, or on any other furface. They are, 
 befides, warmer, more eafily erected, taken 
 down, and tranfported. 
 
 The 1 6th, we left the deep fand, and 
 travelled along the fame fort of dry gra- 
 velly ground as formerly. In the even- 
 ing, we pitched our tents at the fprings 
 called Sadjin. The variety of objects, in 
 this dreary wafte, are fo few, that in this, 
 as well as in other refpecls, it much re- 
 fembles the fea. Here one can fee no far- 
 ther than if he was placed on the furface of 
 the water, out of fight of land ; the round- 
 ing of the globe, in both cafes, being the 
 fame. Sometimes, in the morning, I have 
 
 been
 
 400 AJOURNEY 1720. 
 
 been agreeably furprifed in fancying I faw, 
 at a fmall diftance, a fine river, having 
 rows of trees growing upon its banks ; but 
 this was only a deception of the fight, pro- 
 ceeding from the vapours magnifying fome 
 fcattered (hrubs into great trees. 
 
 The iyth, we came to fome wells of 
 very bad water, called Oudey, where we 
 found frefh horfes and camels waiting for 
 us. Our conductor refolved to lofe no 
 time, being apprehenfive that we might be 
 overtaken in the defert by the froft and 
 deep fnow, which ufually happen at this 
 feafon. Such an event would have retard- 
 ed our march, and incommoded us not a 
 little in many refpe&s. We therefore tra- 
 velled as long ftages, as the convenience of 
 water, and the ftrength of our cattle, would 
 permit. 
 
 The i8th, after a long (Jay's journey, we 
 came to the wells called Ulan-kala. We 
 found, almoft every day, Mongalls in their 
 tents, which flood like fo many hives, dif- 
 perfed through this folitary plain, 
 
 The
 
 -1720. T O P E K I N. 401 
 
 The i Qth, we mounted again, and tra- 
 velled to the fprings named Tzilan-tegge- 
 rick. This day we faw feveral flocks of 
 antelopes ; and, indeed, few days paffed 
 in which we did not fee fome of thefe ani- 
 mals. 
 
 The 2oth, we came to a place called 
 Ourandabu. The weather ftill continued 
 fair, the iky clear, and the mornings frofty. 
 The water at this place was tolerable ; but 
 we were obliged to dig for it. When it 
 happened ihat we had a long ftage from 
 one fpring to another, for fear of coming 
 too late, we ufually fent a couple of men 
 before us, in order to gather fewel, and to 
 dig pits, that the water might have time to 
 fettle before our arrival. 
 
 The 2 1 ft, we proceeded, and in the e- 
 vening arrived at a lake of fait- water. Af- 
 ter digging, however, we found fome frefli- 
 er. Were it not that thefe lakes and pits 
 are fcattered through this defert, it muft 
 have been altogether uninhabited, either by 
 man or beaft. This confideration, among 
 
 VOL. I. 3 E many
 
 402 A JOURNEY 1720. 
 
 many others, has often led me to admire 
 the infinite wifdom of Almighty God, in 
 the difpenfations of his providence, for the 
 fupport of all his creatures. 
 
 In my opinion, thefe fprings are produ- 
 ced by the rains and melted fnow in the 
 fpring ; for the water, finking in the fand, 
 is thereby prevented from being exhaled, 
 in fummer, by the heat of the fun, which 
 muft be very fcorching in this defert, in 
 which there is not the leaft fhade to be 
 found. 
 
 The 22d, we quitted the fait lake, in a 
 cold frofty morning, and a ftrong northerly 
 wind, which was very difagreeable. At e- 
 vening we reached the wells of Kulat. 
 Thefe pits take their names from the qua- 
 lity of the water, as fait, four, fweet, bit- 
 ter, or from the different tribes of people 
 who inhabit the country in the neighbour- 
 hood. 
 
 In the midft of our fatigues, we had the 
 fatisfadion to be among a friendly people, 
 
 who
 
 1726. T O P E K I N. 403 
 
 who did every thing in their power to lef- 
 fen our wants. 
 
 Next day, we reached the wells of Min- 
 gat. The weather, though cold, was not 
 unpleafant. And, the 24th, having got 
 frefh horfes and camels, we came, in the 
 evening, to a pond of brackifh water, called 
 Korunteer, upon the extremity of a dif- 
 mal bank of fand, running acrofs our road. 
 
 The day followingj we entered on the 
 fand-bank, along a narrow and crooked 
 paflage between two hillocks. Every one 1 
 prayed for calm weather while we travelled 
 over the fand ; which put me in mind of 
 being at fea We continued our journey 
 through deep fand till about noon, when 
 all our horfes and camels being tired, we 
 halted in a hollow place, where we dug, 
 and found very bad water. We remained 
 here till next morning. 
 
 Our cattle being a little refrefhed, tho* 
 they had been very indifferently fed among 
 the fand, where nothing was to be feen but 
 fome tufts of withered grafs, we fet out a- 
 
 gain.
 
 404 A JOURNEY 1720. 
 
 gain. Along this bank there is not the 
 lead track or path of any kind ; for the 
 fmalleft blaft of wind immediately effaces 
 it, and renders all the furface fmooth. 
 
 We had gone but a few miles, when 
 moft of our people were obliged to alight, 
 and walk on foot,' the horfes being quite 
 tired with the deepnefs of the fand ; which 
 made our progrefs extremely flow. The 
 weather, fortunately, was ftill very calm. 
 About noon, we pitched our tents in a hol- 
 low place, encompafled with high hillocks 
 of fand. I obferved that, in the open de- 
 fert, we had /already pafled, the profpect 
 was much confined ; but here it was quite 
 ftraitened ; for, if you afcended one of thefe 
 mounts,- you could fee nothing but mount 
 rifing above mount, like fo many fugar- 
 loaves, or rather like fo many cupolas. 
 
 In the evening it began to blow a little 
 at north-eaft, which drove about the light 
 fand like fnow ; but, about midnight, the 
 wind rofe to fuch an height, that all our 
 tents were overfet at once, and our beds 
 
 filled 

 
 1720. TO P E K I N. 405 
 
 filled with fand. As it was near morning, 
 we thought it not worth while to pitch 
 them again. We therefore prepared our- 
 felves to fet out at the dawn, in hopes of 
 getting over the fand-bank before night ; 
 which, by riding and walking by turns, in 
 order to haften our progrefs, we happily 
 effected ; and, in the evening, reached the 
 fprings of Kochatu. 
 
 At the place where we patted the fand, 
 it was not above twenty Englilh miles in 
 breadth, which took us up three days. We 
 could have travelled four times that dif- 
 tance on the plain, with more eafe both to 
 ourfelves and cattle. I am informed this 
 bank of fand runs a great way fouthward, 
 and, in fome places, is above thirty leagues 
 broad. They, whofe bufmefs calls them 
 often to crofs the fands, have thin leather 
 coats made on purpofe, and round pieces 
 of glafs tied before their eyes. 
 
 This fand-bank appears like the waves 
 ^f the fea ; for the hillocks, fome of which 
 are about twenty feet of perpendicular 
 
 height,
 
 406 A JOURNEY 1720. 
 
 height, are of fo light a nature, that the 
 wind carries them from place to place, le- 
 velling one, and forming another: And 
 hence it is eafy to conceive, that a weary 
 traveller, lying down on the lee-fide of one 
 of thefe hillocks, might, in a few hours, 
 be buried in the fand ; which is reported 
 to have often happened in this and other 
 fandy deferts. 
 
 The 28th, we proceeded along the plain 
 to the fprings called Chabertu. I cannot 
 but take notice of the uncommon manner 
 the people here have of killing their fheep. 
 They make a flit with a knife between two 
 ribs, through which they put their hand, 
 and fqueeze the heart till the creature ex- 
 pire ; by this method all the blood remains 
 in the carcafe. When the flieep is dead, 
 and hungry people cannot wait till the 
 flefti is regularly drefTed, they generally 
 cut out the bifcuit and rump, wool and all, 
 and broil them on the coals ; then fcrape 
 off the finged wool and eat them. This I 
 have found by experience to be no difa- 
 
 greeable
 
 1720. T O P E K I N. 407 
 
 greeable morfel, even without any kind of 
 fauce. 
 
 The next day we travelled another ftage 
 to the wells of Saminfa, where we found 
 better water than ufual. The length and 
 thicknefs of the grafs fhowed that the foil 
 now began to mend. This day there fell 
 fome fnow, and the wind was cold and 
 northerly. 
 
 The 3Oth, we got frefli horfes, and pro- 
 ceeded to the fprings of Krema. From 
 the appearance of the grafs one would 
 conclude, that the foil at this place was 
 very fine. We faw great numbers of hor- 
 fes belonging to the Emperor turned out to 
 graze. Notwithftanding all the hafte we 
 had hitherto made, we were this day over- 
 taken by a fall of fnow, which proved 
 very inconvenient, not fo much on account 
 of the cold, but it covered all fewel, fo that 
 we could find none to drefs our victuals. 
 
 The 3 1 ft, we came to a place called 
 NaringkarufTu, where, to our great fatis- 
 fadion, we found a fmall brook of frefli 
 
 water,
 
 4 o8 A JOURNEY i 720 . 
 
 water, and fome Mongalian huts. I ob- 
 ferved, that, from the fand-bank eaftward, 
 the foil becomes gradually better every 
 day. This was now the fortieth day fmce 
 we left the border ; during which time we 
 had not halted one day, nor feen a tingle 
 houfe, and the twentieth and eight from 
 the time we quitted the river Tola, and 
 entered the defert, in which we had nei- 
 ther feen river, tree, bufh, nor mountain. 
 Though we were obliged now and then to 
 fetch a compafs, on account of the water- 
 ing places, yet in general our courfe devi- 
 ated but little from the fouth-eaft point. 
 
 The i ft of November, we halted at this 
 place, that we might have time to put 
 things in order before we pafled the long 
 wall, which was now at no great diftance. 
 
 Next day we proceeded, and about noon 
 we could perceive the famous wall, running 
 along the tops of the mountains, towards 
 the north-eaft- One of our people cried 
 out Land, as if we had been all this while 
 at fea. It was now, as nearly as I can 
 
 compute,
 
 1720. tO P E K I N. 409 
 
 compute, about forty Englifli miles from 
 us, and appeared white at this diftance. 
 We could not this night reach the paflage 
 through the mountains, and therefore 
 pitched our tents in the open plain as 
 ufual. We now began to feel the effects 
 of the cold ; for the fnow, continuing to 
 lie upon the defert, proved very incon- 
 venient on many accounts, but particularly 
 by retarding the progrefs of our heavy and 
 cumberfome baggage. But we comforted 
 ourfelves with the hopes of foon feeing an 
 end of all our toils, and arriving in a rich 
 and inhabited country ; for, though all of 
 our people were in good health, they be- 
 gan to be very weary of the defert, and no 
 wonder, as many of them had lain in the 
 open field ever fince we left Selinginfky. 
 
 November 3d, after travelling about an 
 hour we pafled the veftiges of a camp, 
 which feemed to have been regularly de- 
 figned. I was informed that the Emperor 
 encamped here, when he led his troops a- 
 
 VOL. I. 3 F gainft
 
 410 A JOURNEY 1720. 
 
 gainft the Mongalls, called by the million* 
 aries in China the Weftern Tartars. 
 
 The nearer we came to the mountains 
 we were the more furprifed at the fight of 
 the fo much celebrated wall of China, com- 
 monly called for its length the endlefs wall. 
 The appearance of it, running from one 
 high rock to another, with fquare towers 
 at certain intervals, even at this diftance, is 
 moft magnificent. 
 
 About noon, xve quitted the plain, and 
 entered an opening between two moun- 
 tains. To the left, the mountains are very 
 high. On the right, they decline as far as 
 they are within view ; but, I am told, they 
 rife again to a great height. 
 
 We defcended by a narrow path about 
 eight feet broad, between the mountains, 
 till we came to a fmall Chinefe monaftery, 
 fituated on the declivity of a fteep rock. 
 Curiofity led us to vifit this folitary place : 
 But the road being impaflable to horfes, 
 we alighted and walked thither. On our 
 arriving near the place, the monks came 
 
 out
 
 1720. TO P E K I N. 411 
 
 out to meet us, with the ufual friendly fa- 
 lutation of the country, which is perform- 
 ed by laying one of their hands on the o- 
 ther, and then ihaking them, and pro- 
 nouncing thefe words Cho-loy-cho. The 
 compliment being returned, they conduct- 
 ed us into the apartments of their little 
 chapel, and treated us with a difh of green 
 tea, which was very agreeable. In the 
 chapel was a fort of altar-piece, on which 
 were placed feveral fmall brafs images ; 
 and, in one of the corners, I obferved a 
 fack filled with wheat. The habit of the 
 monks was a long gown with wide fleeves. 
 On their heads was a fmall cap, and their 
 long lank hair hung down over their fhoul- 
 ders. They had very few hairs in their 
 beards. This being 1 the firft Chinefe houfe 
 we met with, I have en that account been 
 more, particular in defcribing it. Every 
 thing now appeared to us as if we had ar- 
 rived in another world. We felt efpecial- 
 ly a fenfible alteration in the weather ; for, 
 
 inilead
 
 412 AJOURNEY 1720. 
 
 inftead of the cold bleak wind in the defert, 
 we had here a warm and pleafant air. 
 
 We again proceeded along the narrow 
 path, but of breadth fufficient for a wheel- 
 carriage. The road being fteep, and in 
 many places rugged, we walked down the 
 hill, and in half an hour came to the foot 
 of it, where we found ourfelves furround- 
 ed on all fides by high rocky mountains. 
 Our route now lay along the fouth fide of 
 a rivulet, full of great ftones, which had 
 fallen from the rocks in rainy weather. In 
 the cliffs of the rocks you fee little fcatter- 
 ed cottages, with fpots of cultivated ground, 
 much refembling thofe romantic figures of 
 landfcapes which are painted on the China 
 ware, and other manufactures of this coun- 
 try. Thefe are accounted fanciful by moft 
 Europeans, but are really natural. 
 
 After we had travelled about feven or 
 eight miles, along the bank of the brook, 
 we came in the evening to a Chinefe vil- 
 lage, at the foot of a high mountain, where 
 we lodged in clean rooms, with warm fires 
 
 of
 
 TO P E K I N. 413 
 
 of charcoal. There were no chimneys in 
 the rooms ; but, inftead of thefe, the char- 
 coal was put into a portable grate of brafs 
 or iron, and allowed to burn clear in the 
 open air ; after which it was brought into 
 the apartment. Though the defert is one 
 continued plain, it lies much higher than 
 the plains and villages of China ; for, when 
 we entered the defile, the afcent was very 
 inconfiderable when compared with the 
 defcent on the othe'r fide. 
 
 Here we began to tafte of the fine fruits 
 of China ; for foon after our arrival in the 
 village, our conductor fent a prefent to the 
 ambaflador of fome bafkets of fruits, con- 
 fiding of water-melons, mufk-melons, 
 fweet and bitter oranges, peaches, apples, 
 walnuts, chefnuts, and feveral other forts 
 which I never faw before, together with a 
 jar of Chinefe arrack, provifions of feveral 
 forts, and fome Chinefe bread, called bobon, 
 made of wheaten flour, and baked over a 
 pot with the fteam of boiling- water. It is 
 very light, and not difagreeable in tafte ; at 
 
 leaft
 
 4 i4 A JOURNEY 1720. 
 
 leaft it feemed fo to us, who had feen no 
 bread for a month before. 
 
 Next day we halted to refrefh ourfelves 
 after our long fatigue. I took this oppor- 
 tunity to walk up to the top of the moun- 
 tain, in order to view the adjacent coun- 
 try, but could only fee a continuation of 
 the chain of mountains, rifmg one above 
 another, and to the northward fome 
 glimpfes of the long wall as it runs along 
 them. 
 
 The jth, we proceeded eaftward down 
 the fouth bank of a river, whofe channel 
 was covered with great ftones. The road 
 is cut out of the rock for a confiderable 
 length at thofe places where there is no 
 natural pafiage between the rocks and the 
 river, which muft have been a work of 
 great labour. This river cannot fail to be 
 a complete torrent in time of great rains. 
 
 Having travelled about fix or eight miles, 
 we arrived at the famous wall of China. 
 We entered at a great gate, which is ihut 
 every night, and always guarded by a 
 
 thoufand
 
 1720. T O P E K I N. 415 
 
 thoufand men, under the command of two 
 officers of diftindion, one a Chinefe, and 
 the other a Mantzur Tartar ; for it is an 
 eftablifhed cuftom in China, and has pre- 
 vailed ever fince the conqueft of the Tar- 
 tars, that in all places of public truft there 
 muft be a Chinefe and a Tartar inverted 
 with equal power. This rule is obferved 
 both in civil and military affairs. The 
 Chinefe pretend, that two in an office are 
 a fort of fpies upon one another's actions, 
 and thereby many fraudulent practices are 
 either prevented or detected. 
 
 CHAP.
 
 4i6 A JOURNEY 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 From the Wall of China to Pek'm 
 our Entry into that City. 
 
 A S foon as we had entered the gate, 
 * * thefe two officers, and many fubal- 
 terns, came to compliment the ambaflador 
 on his fafe arrival ; and afked the favour 
 of him to walk into the guard-room and 
 drink a dim of tea. We accordingly dif- 
 mounted, and went into a fpacious hall on 
 the fouth fide of the gate. This apartment 
 was very clean, having benches all around, 
 and is kept on purpofe for the reception of 
 perfons of diftin&ion. We were entertain- 
 ed
 
 1720. TO P E K I N. 417 
 
 ed with variety of fruits and confections, 
 and feveral forts of tea. After ftaying a- 
 bout half an hour, the ambaflador took 
 leave of the gentlemen, and we proceeded 
 on our journey. We travelled about four 
 miles farther, and came to a confiderable 
 town named Kalgan. At fome diftance 
 
 from the place we were met by the com- 
 
 ^ 
 
 mandant, and the Mandarin Tulimin, who 
 had paid us a vifit at Selinginfky. They 
 accompanied the ambaflador to his lodg- 
 ings, which were in houfes apart from the 
 reft of the town ; and provifions were fent 
 us in great plenty. 
 
 From the wall to this place the country 
 to the north begins to open, and contains 
 fome 'villages, corn-fields, and gardens. 
 
 The fame evening, the ambaflador and 
 the gentlemen of the retinue were invited 
 to fup at the commandant's houfe, and hor- 
 fes were fent to carry us thither. We a- 
 lighted in the outer- court, where the com- 
 mandant in perfon waited for us, and 
 conducted us through a neat inner-court 
 VOL. I. 3 G into
 
 4 i8 A JOURNEY 1720. 
 
 into a hall, in the middle of which flood a 
 large brafs chaffing- dim, in fhape of an urn, 
 with a fire of charcoal in it. The floor was 
 covered with mats, and the room quite fet 
 round with chairs, and little fquare japan- 
 ned tables. The ambaffador fat at a table 
 by himfelf, and the reft of the company at 
 feparate tables, by two and two. We were 
 firft entertained with tea, and a dram of 
 hot arrack ; after which fupper was brought, 
 and placed on the tables, without either ta- 
 ble-cloth, napkins, knives, or forks. In- 
 ftead of forks were laid down to every per- 
 ibn a couple of ivory pins, with which the 
 Chinefe take up their meat. The dimes 
 were fmall, and placed upon the table in 
 the moft regular manner, the vacancies 
 being rilled with faucers, containing pickles 
 and bitter herbs. The entertainment con- 
 fifted of pork, mutton, fowls, and two 
 roafted pigs. The carver fits upon the 
 floor, and executes his office with great 
 dexterity. He cuts the flefh into fuch 
 frnall bits, as may eafily be taken up by the 
 
 guefts,
 
 1720. TO P E K I N. 419 
 
 guefts, without further trouble. The meat 
 being cut up is given to the footmen, who 
 fupply the empty difhes on the tables. The 
 whole is ferved in China-ware, and neither 
 gold nor filver is to be feen. All the fer- 
 vants perform their duty with the utmoft 
 regularity, , and without the leaft noife. I 
 muft confefs, I was never better pleafed 
 with any entertainment. 
 
 The victuals being removed, the defert 
 was placed on the tables in the fame order, 
 and cdnfifted of a variety of fruits and gon- 
 fections. In the mean time a band of mu- 
 fic was called in, which confided of ten or 
 twelve performers, on various but chiefly 
 wind-inftruments, fo different from thofe 
 of that clafs in Europe, that I fhall not pre- 
 tend to defcribe them. The mufic was 
 accompanied with dancing, which was very 
 entertaining. The dancers were nearly as 
 numerous as the muficians. Their per- 
 formances were only a kind of gefticula- 
 tion, confiding of many ridiculous pof- 
 tures ; for they feldom moved from the 
 
 fame
 
 420 A JOURNEY 1720. 
 
 fame place. The evening being pretty far 
 fpent, we took leave, and returned to our 
 lodgings. 
 
 The 6th, a great fall of fnow, and a 
 cold frofty wind, obliged us to halt at this 
 place. 
 
 Next day, the froft and fnow ftill conti- 
 nued ; notwithstanding we fet out, and 
 pafled over a ftone-bridge near this place, 
 paved, not with fmall ftones, but with 
 large, fquare, free ftones, neatly joined. 
 After travelling eaftward about thirty En- 
 glifh miles, we reached a large and popu- 
 lous city called Siang-fu. We were met 
 without the gate by fome of the principal 
 inhabitants, and conducted to our lodg- 
 ings. 
 
 When we arrived, the governour was out 
 a- hunting with one of the Emperor's fons. 
 As foon as he returned in the evening, he 
 waited on the ambaflador, and compli- 
 mented him in a very polite manner, ex- 
 cufir.g himfelf for not waiting on him foon- 
 er. At iht fame time, he gave his Excel- 
 lency
 
 T O P E K I N. 421 
 
 lency a formal invitation to fupper ; for it 
 is appointed by the court that foreign am- 
 bafladors ftiould be magnificently enter- 
 tained in all the towns through which they 
 pafs : But the ambaflador, being fomewhat 
 indifpofed, defired to be excufed. 
 
 Our route this day was through a fine 
 champaign country, well cultivated, but 
 containing very few trees. We paffed fer 
 veral fmall towns, and many villages, well 
 built, and inclofed with walls. The roads 
 were well made, and in good order, run- 
 ning always in ftraight lines where the 
 ground will allow. I had heard a great 
 deal of the order and oeconomy of thefe 
 people, but found my information far fhort 
 of what I daily faw in all their works and 
 actions. The ftreets of every village run 
 in ftraight lines. 
 
 Upon the road we met with many tur- 
 rets, called poft-houfes, erected at certain 
 diftances from one another, with a flag- 
 ftaff, on which is hoifled the imperial pen- 
 dant. Thefe places are guarded by a few 
 
 foldiers,
 
 422 A JOURNEY 1720. 
 
 foldiers, who run a-foot from one poft to 
 another with great fpeed, carrying letters 
 or defpatches that concern the Emperor. 
 The turrets are fo contrived as to be in 
 fight of one another ; and, by fignals, they 
 can convey intelligence of any remarkable 
 event. By this means the court is inform- 
 ed, in the fpeedieft manner imaginable, of 
 whatever difturbance may happen in the 
 moft remote provinces of the empire. Thefe 
 pofts are alfo very ufeful, by keeping the 
 country free from highwayman ; forfhould 
 a perfon efcape at one houfe, on a fignal 
 being made, he would certainly be flopped 
 at the next. The diftance of one poft- 
 houfe from another is ufually five Chinefe 
 H or miles, each li confiding of five hun- 
 dred bow lengths. I compute five of their 
 miles to be about two and an half En- 
 glifh. 
 
 The 8th, we halted at this place. As 
 we could not be prefent at the entertain- 
 ment to which we were invited laft night 
 by the governour, he had refolved that the 
 
 delicacies
 
 I 7 ao. TO P E K I N. 423 
 
 delicacies prepared on that occafion fhould 
 not be loft, and therefore fent into our 
 court twelve tables, whereon were placed, 
 by a number of people, all the victuals that 
 were drefled the preceding night with the 
 defert, and feveral forts of tea. The whole 
 was afterwards brought into the hall, and 
 there placed in form upon the tables. 
 When this was done, an officer of diftinc- 
 tion came to defire the ambafTador to tafte 
 of his Imperial Majefty's bounty. We ac- 
 cordingly fat down at the tables in great 
 order. Every thing was very good, but 
 moftly cold, having been carried through 
 the ftreets to fome diftance. After we had 
 removed from the table, the perfon who 
 had the direction of the entertainment, 
 called our fervants, and ordered them to fit 
 
 down at the tables and eat. This produced 
 a very diverting fcene ; but, had it not 
 been complied with, the governour would 
 have thought himfelf highly affronted. 
 
 In the evening, the Emperor's third fon 
 went through this city, on his way towards 
 
 the
 
 424 A JOURNEY 
 
 the capital. He was carried upon mens 
 fhoulders in a palankin, a vehicle very eafy 
 for the traveller, and well known in Euro- 
 pean fettlements in India. The Emperor's 
 fons have no other names than thofe of 
 firft, fecond, third, &c. This prince had 
 only a fmall retinue of a few horfemen. 
 
 Our new conductor, Tulifhin, invited 
 the ambaflador and his retinue to pafs the 
 evening at his lodgings. His Excellency 
 excufed himfelf, as he had not been at the 
 governour's. All the gentlemen, however, 
 accepted the invitation. The entertain- 
 ment was elegant, and fomething like that 
 I formerly defcribed, accompanied with 
 dancing and mufic, and quail- fighting. It 
 is furprifing to fee how thefe little birds fly 
 at one another as foon as they are fet upon 
 the table, and fight, like game-cocks, to 
 death. The Chinefe are very fond of this 
 diverfion, and bet as high on their quails as 
 the Englifh do on cccks. They are alfo 
 great lovers of cock-fighting ; but it is 
 reckoned among the vulgar fports. The 
 
 quails
 
 1720. TO P E K I N. 425 
 
 quails are generally parted before they hurt 
 one another too much, and referved in 
 cages till another occafipn. 
 
 The 9th, having fent off the baggage in 
 the morning, the ambaflador returned the 
 governour's vifit. We only flaid to drink 
 tea ; after which we immediately mount- 
 ed, and purfued our journey to a fmall 
 town called Juny, where we arrived in the 
 evening. Near this place is "a deep rock, 
 ftariding on a plain, inacceffibleon all fides, 
 except to the weft, where a narrow wind- 
 ing path is cut in the rock, which leads to 
 a Pagan temple and nunnery built upon 
 the top of it. Thefe edifices make a pretty 
 appearance from the plain ; and, as the 
 ftory goes, were built from the foundation 
 in one night by a lady, on the following 
 occafion. This lady was very beautiful, 
 virtuous, and rich, and had many powerful 
 princes for her fuitors. She told them, me 
 intended to build a temple and a mona- 
 fiery of certain ciimenfions, with her own 
 hands, in one night, on the top of this 
 
 VOL. 1. 3 H rock ;
 
 426 A JOURNEY 1720, 
 
 rock ; and whoever would undertake to 
 build a ftone-bridge over a river in the 
 neighbourhood, in the fame fpace of time, 
 him (he promifed to accept for a hufband. 
 All the lovers having heard the difficult 
 tafk impofed on them, returned to their re- 
 fpecYive dominions, except one ftranger, 
 who undertook to perform the hard con- 
 dition. The lover and the lady began 
 their labour at the fame time, and the lady 
 completed her part before the light appear- 
 ed ; but as foon as the fun was rifen, fhe 
 faw from the top of the rock, that her lo- 
 ver had not half-finimed his bridge, ha- 
 ving raifed only the pillars for the 
 arches. Failing, therefore, in his part 
 of the performance," he alfo was obliged 
 to depart to his own country ; and the 
 lady pafied the remainder of her days in 
 her own monaftery. 
 
 The river is about a quarter of a mile 
 from the rock, and the pillars ftill remain 
 about five or fix feet above the water ; 
 they are fix or eight in number, and godd 
 
 lubftantial
 
 I 7 ao. T O P E K I N. 427 
 
 jfubftantial work. This tale I relate as a 
 fpecimen of many fabulous ftories, which I 
 heard every day, and the people firmly be- 
 lieve. In the monaftery there are at pfe- 
 fent many m.onks and nuns. 
 
 The chain of mountains running to the 
 north, which bound this plain to the weft, 
 are .very high, rugged, and barren. Their 
 breadth from the defert to the plain habi- 
 table country of China, I compute not to 
 exceed fifteen or twenty miles, and in ma- 
 ny places it is much lefs. But their length, 
 lam informed, is above one thoufand En- 
 glim miles. They encompafs all, or the 
 greateft part of the empire of China, to the 
 north and weft. Thefe impregnable bul- 
 warks, together with the almoft impaflable 
 deferts, have, in my opinion, fo long pre- 
 ferved this nation from being over-run by 
 the weftern heroes. One would imagine, 
 that a country, fo fortified by nature, had 
 little need of fuch a ftrong wall for its de- 
 fence ; for, if all the pafles of the moun- 
 tains are as narrow and difficult as that 
 
 where
 
 428 AJOURNEY 1720. 
 
 where we entered, a fmall number of men 
 might defend it againft a mighty army. 
 
 Jimy is but a fmall place ; it fuffered 
 greatly by the earthquake that happened 
 in the month of July the preceding year, 
 above one half of it being thereby laid in 
 ruins. Indeed, more than one-half of the 
 towns and villages through which we tra- 
 velled this day had fuffered much on the 
 fame occafion, and vaft numbers of people 
 had been buried in the ruins. I muft con- 
 fefs, it was a difmal fcene to fee every 
 where fuch heaps ofrubbifh. 
 
 All the beft houfes being thrown down 
 by the earthquake, we were lodged in the 
 priefts apartments of a temple, which had 
 efcaped the general devaluation. Our con- 
 ductor treated the monks with very Jittle 
 ceremony, and deflred them to feek other 
 lodgings for themfelves. Thefe priefts 
 were not at all fuperftitious, as appeared 
 fufliciently from the little reverence they 
 paid to their idols, and ftatues of reputed 
 faints. They conducted us into the 
 
 temple,
 
 1720. TO P E K I N. 
 
 temple, and feveral apartments adjoining, 
 where flood many images of faints, fome 
 of which were monftrous figures of flone 
 and plaifter. One of the priefts gave us 
 the hiftory of fome of them, which I 
 thought too abfurd to be inferted. We 
 then returned into the temple, which was 
 a fmall but neat building. In one end of 
 it we faw an altar, rifing by fteps to the 
 cieling, on which were placed a number 
 of fmall images, caft chiefly in brafs, re- 
 fembling men and women, birds and hearts. 
 We were entertained in the temple with 
 tea till the priefts had removed their beds. 
 At the entrance is hung a large bell, at- 
 tended by a prieft, who tolls it on feeing 
 paflengers, in order to invite them to fay 
 their prayers ; which having done, they 
 generally leave a fmall gratuity to the 
 temple. 
 
 In the night, we were a little alarmed 
 with the fliock of an earthquake, which 
 awakened all our people, but did no da- 
 mage. 
 
 Next
 
 4-jo A JOURNEY 1720. 
 
 Next day, our conductor notified to the 
 ambafiador, that he could proceed no far- 
 ther till he received an anfwer to fome 
 defpatches he had fent to court. Thefe 
 news were not altogether agreeable, as we 
 apprehended another fhock of an earth- 
 quake. Nothing, however, of that kind 
 happened during the two days we were 
 obliged to remain at this place. 
 
 The 1 2th, we continued our journey to 
 a little town, where we lodged. This, and 
 moft of the towns and villages through 
 which we pafled to day, had fuffered great- 
 ly by the earthquake ; particularly one 
 confiderable walled town, where very few 
 houfes remained, and the walls were level- 
 led with the ground. 
 
 About noon, next day, we came to a 
 large* populous, and well built city, with 
 broad ftreets, as ftraight as a line. Near 
 this place runs a fine river, which appears 
 navigable, having acrofs it a noble ftone 
 bridge, of feveral arches, and paved with 
 large fquare ftones. In the evening, we 
 
 arrived
 
 * 7 2ol tO P- E K I NT. 431 1 
 
 arrived at a fmall town, after paffing 
 through a very pleafant and fruitful coun- 
 try. 
 
 On the J4th, we halted at this little 
 town : But our baggage, and his Majefty's 
 prefents, advanced a ftage farther. . Thefe, 
 by order of the Mandarin, our conductor, 
 were carried on men's fhoulders, covered 
 with pieces of yellow filk, as every thing is 
 which hath any connection with the court. 
 Whatever is diftinguifhed by this badge is 
 looked on as facred ; and he who has the 
 care of any thing belonging to the Empe- 
 ror needs no other protection ; fuch is the 
 reverence paid him all over the empire. 
 The yellow colour is chofen by the Empe- 
 ror, becaufe, among the Chinefe, it is the 
 emblem of the fun, to which he is com- 
 pared. 
 
 The following day, our road, lying over 
 fome rocks, was very rugged. In fome 
 places it was cut, for a confiderable length, 
 above twenty feet deep, through the folid 
 jock, which appears to have been a work 
 
 of
 
 A JOURNEY 1720, 
 
 of great labour and expence. But no 
 people I ever faw take fuch pains to make 
 their ftreets and high-ways eafy to travel- 
 lers as the Chinefe. In fome places of the 
 rocks were cut out images of Chinefe 
 faints ; but the workmanmip very mean. 
 
 Near this place, we pafTed through fix 
 or eight ftrong femicircular walls within 
 one another, which have the endlefs wall 
 for their common diameter, and take in a 
 great compafs. In all thefe walls there are 
 large well built gates, guarded by a con- 
 ftant watch, both in times of peace and 
 war. At one of them, the ambaflador was 
 faluted with three great guns, from a tower 
 over the gate-way. Thefe walls feem to 
 be of the fame materials and architecture 
 with the long wall, having fquare towers 
 at the diftance of a bow-mot from each 
 other. While we flopped at one of the 
 gates to refrefh ourfelves, I took the op- 
 portunity to walk into one of thefe towers, 
 where I faw fome hundreds of old iron 
 cannon thrown together as ufelefs. On 
 
 examination
 
 I 7 2o. T O P E K I N. 433 
 
 examination I found them to be compofed 
 of three or four pieces of hammered iron, 
 joined, and faftened together with hoops 
 of the fame metal. The Chinefe have, 
 however, now learned to caft as fine brafs 
 cannon as are any where 'to be found. 
 From this tower I was led, by a broad 
 ftone ftair, to the top of the wall, which is 
 above twenty feet ,jn breadth, and paved 
 with large fquare ftones, clofely joined, 
 and cemented with ftrong mortar. I walk- 
 ed along this flat, till I came to a rock, 
 where I found a high ftair of above a 
 thoufand fteps, the whole breadth of the 
 wall, which led to a tower on the fummit, 
 from whence I could fee like a ftair, on 
 the other fide, forming a defcent to a nar- 
 row paflage between two rocks. 1 obferved 
 alfo, that the wall was neither fo high nor 
 broad where it was carried over another 
 rock to the fouth-weft, as at the place where 
 I ftood. But time not allowing me to go 
 farther, I returned by the fame way to our 
 company ; and, after (laying a few hours, 
 VOL. I. 3 I we
 
 434 A JOURNEY 172. 
 
 we proceeded this afternoon to the town of 
 Zulinguang, where we lodged. 
 
 The next day, after travelling about two 
 hours, we came to the laft femicircular 
 wall. Here ended all the hills and moun- 
 tains. Our road now lay through a fine 
 champaign country, interfperfed with many 
 fmall towns and villages. In the even- 
 ing, we reached a large . neat city, called 
 Zang- ping' jew. In the market place flood 
 a triumphal arch, whereon were hung a 
 number of dreamers, and filken pendants, 
 of various colours. The ftreets were clean, 
 ^ilraight, and broad ; in fome places cover- 
 . ed with gravel, in others paved with flat 
 fquare (tones. 
 
 * r 
 
 As foon as we reached our lodgings, the 
 governour of the place came to felute the 
 ambaflador, and invited him to an enter- 
 tainment, prepared by order of his Ma- 
 jefty. 
 
 The invitation was accepted, and we im- 
 mediately went to the governour's palace. 
 The entertainment was very magnificent, 
 
 fome-
 
 1720. TO P E K I N. 435 
 
 fomewhat of the fame kind with that I for- 
 merly defcribed, and accompanied with 
 mufic and dancing. This place is fituated 
 in a fruitful plain, about thirty Englifh 
 miles northward of Pekin. 
 
 The 1 7th, after travelling about a dozen 
 bf miles* we came to a fmall town called 
 Shach. The weather being very fine and 
 warm, the governour came to meet the 
 ambaflfador, and defired him to refrefh 
 himfelf a little, by drinking tea. Here we 
 halted about an hour, and then proceeded 
 fix or eight miles farther, to a fmall vil- 
 lage, about four miles from the capital, 
 where we lodged. 
 
 Next morning, two mandarins came 
 from court, to congratulate the ambaflador 
 on his arrival, and brought fome horfes, on 
 which he and his retinue were to make 
 their entry. The furniture of the horfes 
 was very fimple, and far inferior to the 
 coftly trappings of the Perfians. 
 
 My lodgings in this village happened to 
 be at a cook's houfe, which gave me an 
 
 oppor-
 
 436 A JOURNEY 1720. 
 
 opportunity of obferving the ingenuity of 
 thefe people, even on trifling occafions. 
 My landlord being in his (hop, I paid him. 
 a vifit* where I found fix kettles, placed in 
 a row on furnaces, having a feparate open- 
 ing under each of them, for receiving the 
 fewel, which confifted of a few fmall flicks 
 and ftraw. On his pulling a thong, he 
 blew a pair of bellows, which made all his 
 kettles boil in a very mort time. They are 
 indeed very thin, and made of cad iron, 
 being extremely fmooth, both within and 
 without. The fcarcity of fewel, near fuch 
 a populous city, prompts people to con- 
 trive the eafieft methods of dreffing their 
 victuals, and keeping themfclves warm du- 
 ring the winter, which is fevere for two 
 months. 
 
 About ten of the clock, we mounted, 
 and proceeded towards the city, in the fol- 
 lowing order : 
 
 An
 
 1720. TO P E K I N. 437 
 
 An officer, with his fword drawn. 
 
 Three foldiers. 
 
 One kettle-drummer. 
 
 Twenty- four foldiers, three in rank. 
 
 The fteward. 
 Twelve footmen. 
 
 Two pages. 
 
 Three interpreters. 
 
 The ambaflador, and a mandarin of di- 
 
 ftinction. 
 
 Two fecretaries. 
 
 Six gentlemen, two and two. 
 
 Servants and attendants. 
 
 The whole retinue was drefied in their 
 beft apparel. The foldiers in uniform, 
 carrying their mufkets like horfemen ftand- 
 ing centry ; drawn fwords being refufed by 
 our conductor, the officer only had that 
 privilege. 
 
 We travelled from the village, along a 
 fine road, through a cloud of duft, and 
 multitudes of fpe&ators ; and, in two 
 hours, entered the city at the great north 
 
 gate;
 
 A JOURNEY 1726. 
 
 gate ; which opened into a fpacious ftreet, 
 perfectly ftraight, as far as the eye-fight 
 could reach. We found it all fprinkled 
 with water, which was very refrefhing, 
 after the duft we had pafled through. 
 
 A guard of five hundred Chinefe horfe- 
 men was appointed to clear the way ; not- 
 withftanding which, we found it very dif- 
 -ficult to get through the crowd. One 
 would have imagined all the people in Pe- 
 kin were aflembled to fee us ; though I was 
 informed that only a fmall part of the in- 
 habitants of the city were prefent. I ob- 
 
 V 
 
 ferved alfo great crowds of women unveil- 
 ed ; but they kept in the windows, doors, 
 and in corners of the ftreet. The foldiers 
 did not behave with roughnefs to the peo- 
 ple, as in fome other places of the eaft, but 
 treated them with great mildnefs and hu- 
 manity. Indeed the people, of themielves, 
 made as much way as was pofiible for 
 them, confidering their numbers. After a 
 march of two hours, from the gate where 
 we entered, we atlaftcameto our lodgings, 
 
 in
 
 TO P E K I N. 439 
 
 in that part of the city called the Tartar's 
 town, which is near the center of Pekin, 
 and not far from the Emperor's palace. 
 
 We lodged in what is called the Ruffia- 
 houfe. It was allotted, by the prefent Em- 
 peror, for the accommodation of the cara- 
 vans from Mofcovy, and is furrounded 
 with a high wall of brick, which inclofes 
 three courts. The firft from the ftreet is 
 appointed for the guard of Chinefe foldiers. 
 The fecond is a fpacious fquare, on the 
 fides whereof are apartments for fervants. 
 The third is divided from the fecond by a 
 high brick-wall, thro' which you enter by a 
 great gate. Oppofite to this gate is the 
 great hall, which rifes^a few fteps above the 
 level of the court. The floor is neatly 
 paved with white and black marble ; and, 
 on the fame floor, to the right and lefc of 
 the hall, are two fmall bed-chambers. This 
 hall was occupied by the ambaflador. In 
 the fame court are two large houfes, -divi- 
 ded into apartments, in which the retinue 
 was lodged. All thefe ftru&ures are but of 
 
 one
 
 440 A JOURNEY 1720. 
 
 one ftorey, with large windows of lettice- 
 work, on which is pafted white paper. Tht 
 cielings are very flight and airy, confifting 
 only of ftrong laths, with reeds laid acrofs 
 them, and done over on the infide with 
 paper. The roofs project confiderably o- 
 ver the walls, and are covered with fine 
 light glazed tiles, which, as far as I could 
 learn, are of a quality to laft ages. The 
 bed-chambers only of the hall are neatly 
 finimed with lath and plaifter. 
 
 The fame evening, the mafter of the ce- 
 remonies came to compliment' the ambaf- 
 fador. He, in the Emperor's name, inqui- 
 red into the chief fubjet of his commif- 
 flon ; and, having received a fatisfactory 
 anfwer, retired. 
 
 This gentleman, named Aloy, was by 
 birth a Mongall Tartar, and a great favou- 
 rite of the Emperor. He was a perfon of 
 great politenefs, and a good friend to the 
 Chriftians, efpecially the miflionaries, who 
 received frefli marks of his kindnefs every 
 day. In his youth he converfed much with 
 " the
 
 . TO P E K I N. 441 
 
 the Jefuits, who taught him geography, 
 and fome other branches of fcience ; which 
 contributed not a little to raife his charac- 
 ter among the Chinefe, and recommend 
 him to the notice and favour of the Em- 
 peror. 
 
 Thus, we happily arrived at the famous 
 and long wimed for city of Pekin, the ca- 
 pital of this mighty empire, after a tedious 
 journey of exactly fixteen months. It is 
 indeed very long, yet may be performed in 
 much lefs time. I am of opinion that tra- 
 vellers might go from St Peterfburgh to 
 Pekin, and return, in the fpace of fix 
 months, which, were it neceflary, I think I 
 could eafily demonftrate. 
 
 After the departure of the mafter of the 
 ceremonies, the aleggada, or prime minifter, 
 fent an officer to falute the ambafiador, and 
 excufe himfelf for not paying him a vifit 
 immediately, as it was then late in the 
 night, but promifed to fee him next day. 
 At the fame time, he fent great variety of 
 fruits and provifions, as a mark of refpect^ 
 
 VOL. I. 3 K not-
 
 442 A JOURNEY 172*. 
 
 notwithftanding we were abundantly fup- 
 plied with thefe things by thofe appointed 
 for that purpofe. 
 
 At ten of the clock at night, the officer 
 on guard in the outer- court locked our 
 gate, and fealed it with the Emperor's feal, 
 that no perfon might go out or come in 
 during the night. The ambafifador, not 
 approving of this proceeding, as foon as 
 the gate was opened in the morning, fent 
 his fecretary, and an interpreter, to the 
 prime minifter, to complain of his being 
 confined. The aleggada faid he was alto- 
 gether ignorant of what had happened, but 
 exprefsly forbid any fuch behaviour for the 
 future. In Perfia, indeed, and fome other 
 nations of the eaft, it is the cuftom to re- 
 ftrain foreign minifters from converfing 
 with the inhabhants, tillthey have had an 
 audience of the Prince. (**~ 3 
 
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