u
N4
TRAVELS
FROM
ST. PETERSBURGH
I N
RUSSIA,,
T O
VARIOUS PARTS
O F
ASIA.
ILLUSTRATED WITH MAPS*
IN TWO VOLUMES.
BY JOHN BELL,
OF ANTERMONY.
VOLUME FIRST.
EDINBURGH:
PRINTED FOR WILLIAM CREECH,
AND SOLD BY
GEO. ROBINSONS AND CO. LONDON.
MDCCLXXXVIII,
I s
T T H E
GOVERNOUR,
COURT OF ASSISTANTS,
AND FREEMEN,
OF THE
RUSSIA COMPANY,
AND TO THE
BRITISH FACTORIES
IN RUSSIA,
THE FOLLOWING
RELATION OF TRAVELS, &c.
Are refpe&fully infcribed,
As a teftimony of gratitude,
For the favours received,
From many of them,
By their mod obedient,
And very humble fervant,
ANTERMONY, ~)
t. i. 1762.
THE AUTHOR.
894034
THE
PREFACE.
I
N my youth I had a ftrong defire
of feeing foreign parts ; to fatisfy
which inclination, after having obtained,
from fome perfons of worth, recommen-
datory letters to Dr Arefkine, chief phyfi-
cian and privy-counfellor to the Czar Peter
the Firft, I embarked at London, in the
month of July 1714, on board the Profpe-
rity of Ramfgate, Captain Emerfon, for St
Peterfburgh. On my arrival there, I was
received by Dr Arefkine in a very friend-
ly manner ; to whom I communicated my
intentions
vi PREFACE.
intentions of feeking an opportunity of vi-
fiting fome parts of Afia, at leaft thofe
parts which border on Ruffia. Such an
opportunity foon prefented itfelf, on occa-
fion of an embafTy, then preparing, from
his Czarifh Majefty to the Sophy of Per-
fia.
Artemy Petrovich Valenfky, a gentle-
man of a family of diftinction, and a Cap-
tain of the guards, was appointed ambafla-
dor by his Majefty. Upon his nomination,
he applied to Dr Arefkine to recommend a
perfon who had fome knowledge in phyfic
and furgery, . to go in his fuite in the em-
bafly. As I had employed fome part of
my time in thofe ftudies, the Dodor re-
commended me ; which he did in fo cor-
dial a manner, as produced to me, from the
ambaflador many marks of friendship and
regard, which fubfifted not only during
the journey, but alfo continued, from that
time, to the end of his days. The Doclor,
at the fame time, recommended me to the
college of foreign affairs at St Peterfburgh,
by
PREFACE. . 69
CHAP. V.
Occurrences during ourjlay at Tauris ; our
journey thence to Iff ah an p. 87
CHAP. VL
Occurrences during our Jlay at Ifpahan
t>- "3
CHAP. VII.
\
From Ifpahan to Shamachy ; occurrences du-
ring pur Jlay there p. 1 5 i
CHAP. VIII.
CONTENTS. *iiJ
A Journey from St Peterfburgh in Ruffia,
to Pekin in China p. 183
CHAP. I.
From St Peter/burgh to Tobolfky, the Ca-
pital of Siberia p. 185
CHAP. II.
Occurrences at T'obolfky obfervations on the
Kalmucks^ <&c. and journey continued to
Tomfky />. 220
CHAP. III.
Occurrences at Tom/ky ; obfervations on the
Tzulim Tartars^ &c. and journey conti-
nued to Elimjky p. 252
CHAP. IV.
Observations on lakutjky and Kamtzatjky,
<&c. ; journey continued to Irkutjky ; and
occurrences there p. 233
G H A P.
*iv CONTENTS*
CHAP. V.
I
From Irkutjky, crofs the Lake Bdykall, to
Selinginfky ; fome account of the Kutuch-
CHAP. VI.
Occurrences at Selinginfky ; feveral parties
of hunting ; and journey continued to Sa-
ratzyn^the boundary betiveen the Ruffian
and Chinefe territories p. 34$
CHAP. VII.
from paffing the Saratzyn, and entering tht
Chinefe territories^ to our arrival at the
wall of China /> 380
CHAP. VIII.
from the 'wall of China to Pekin ; our entry
into that city />. 416
JOURNEY
FROM
ST. PETERSBURG!!
IN RUSSIA,
T O
ISPAHAN
IN PERSIA.
PETER THE FIRS 1 ?,
TO THE
SHACH HUSSEIN 5
IN THE YEAR MDCCXV.
Names of the principal perfons *who compo-
fed the train of the Ambaffador
Artemii Petrovich Valenfky, viz.
Secretary,
Gregory Chriftopher Venigerkind,
Captain Engineer,
Jaques de Villette.
Gentlemen of the Embaffy,
Matphe Parfilich Kartzoff,
Adrian Ivanovich Lopuchin,
The Author of this Journal.
Prieft,
Hylarion, a Monk.
Interpreters,
Vaffile KurdefFsky,
Alexie Tulkatzoff,
Pemetry Petritz.
Clerks or Writers,
Vaffile Shadayoff,
Alexie Buchtaryoff.
With many others, viz. a band of mufic, confifting
of trumpets, ket.tle-drums, violins, hautboys, &c. car-
penters, fmiths, taylors, valets, and footmen ; amount-
ing in all to above one hundred performs ; befides a
troop of twenty-five dragoons for our efcort, from Iftra-
chan to Ifpahari.
FROM
ST PETERSBURGH
T O
ISPAHAN.
CHAP. I.
From Sf Peterfburgh to Cafan.
ON the fifteenth of July 1715, I fet
out from St Peterfburgh, in com-
pany with Meflieurs Venigerkind, De Vil-
lette, and Kurdeffsky. That city, which
has fince grown fo confiderable, was then
in its infancy, having been founded, ten or
eleven years before, by that truly great
VOL, I. man
ft AJOURNEY
man Peter the firft, to whom no under-
taking feemed difficult. ,
St Peterfburgh is fituated in fixty degrees
north latitude, partly on the continent of
Ingria and Carelia, and partly on different
iflands formed by the river Neva, which
difcharges itfelf, by four channels, into the
Gulf of Finland, a little below the city. It
is defended by a ftrong caftle, built with
ftone and brick, inacceffible to {hips of
force, there being but eight feet water on
the bar. As the Czar had determined to
form a city all at once, and not to truft to
time for the growth of a place which he
had chofen for the feat of government, he
aflembled inhabitants from every province
of his empire, and allured ftrangers from
moft parts of Europe ; fo that the place
was even well peopled, and had not the
appearance of a city fo lately founded.
The adjacent country is generally cover-
ed with woods, confiding of various kinds
of pines, birch, alder, afpine, and other
trees natural to the northern climates.
To
TO ISPAHAN. J
To the fouthward, efpecially along the
fliore towards Peterhoff, the country in
iummer is very pleafant, with country-
feats, corn- fields, and meadows interfper-
fed.
The river Neva falls out of the Ladoga
Lake at Sluflelburgh, a ftrong caftle, about
fixty verft above St Peterfburgh. It is a
noble flream of clear, wholefome water,
with this peculiar quality, that it is feldom
muddy. It contains a great variety of ex-
cellent fifh, which fupply the market all
the year, .and is navigable to the Ladoga
by flat- bottomed veflels.
The woods on each fide are ftored with
game ; fuch as hares, which are white as
fnow in winter, and turn brown in fum-
mer ; wild-deer, bears, and wolves ; the
laft are fo bold that I have know them, in
the night-time, carry off a dog from a
man's foot, in eroding the river on the ice.
There are alfo elks about the Lake of La-
doga. As for wild- fowl, few places can
boaft of greater variety. The chief are
thefe ;
4 A JOURNEY
thefe ; the urhaan, called in French cog li-
moge ; this bird is black, with beautiful red
ftreaks about its head and eyes. The cock
is about the fize of a turkey ; the hen is
lefs, and of a brown colour. The heath-
cock, in French coq de bruiere, of the fame
colour and marks as the former, but not fo
large. The partridge, which the French
call gilinot. Thefe three kinds perch on
trees ; and in winter feed on fir-tops, and
on crane-berries, which they fcrape from
under the fnow. There is alfo found here
the common Englifh partridge ; it is how-
ever but rare. The tarmachan, a bird
well known in the northern parts of Eng-
land, and in Scotland, are here in plenty.
As foon as the ice goes off in the fpring,
vaft flocks of water- fowl come hither from
the Cafpian Sea, and other fouthern re-
gions? to hatch. Thefe confift of fwans,
geefe, a variety of wild ducks, teal, &c.
Snipes and wood-cocks breed here, many
of which are catched by the Ruffians, who
are excellent fiihers and fportfmen.
From
T O I S P A H A N. 5
From St Petersburg we directed our
courfe along the weflern bank of the Neva,
till we came to the brick-works. The
weather being very hot, we halted here a
few hours, and in the evening purfued eur
journey to a fmall river which falls into
the Neva, about thirty verft above St Pe-
terfburgh. At this place we let our horfes
go to grafs, and lay in our waggons till the
morning ; but were much molefted by the
gnats and mufkitos.
Next morning we continued our jour-
ney, and patted a village ^called Ifhora,
where the inhabitants fpeak a language,
and wear a drefs different from the Ruffian,
though they profefs the fame Greek reli-
gion. It is probable they are the defcen-
dants of a colony formerly brought hither
from iome of the provinces of Livonia.
Next day we came to the Volchova, a
great river ifluing from a lake called Ilmen,
not far diftant from the city of Novogorod,
which difcharges itfelf into the Ladoga.
Here we left our horfes, and, putting our
waggons
9 AJOURNEY
waggons and carnages on board barques,
went up the river, ufing oars or fails, by
turns, as neceffity obliged us. The banks
of the Volchova are covered with many
villages, and fruitful corn-fields, intermix-
ed with natural woods. We found as we
went along plenty of fifli and country pro-
vifions.
The iQth, -we arrived at Novogorod
Velikoi, or the Great Novogorod, fo called
to diftinguifti it from many lefler towns of
the fame name. This city ftands about
two hundred verft fouth-eaft from Peterf-
burgh. The Volchova % runs through the
middle of it, over which there is a wooden
bridge defended by a fortrefs. There are
many well built churches in the town, and
a great number of monafteries in the neigh-
bourhood, pleafantly fituated, which form
a very agreeable profpect. It was former-
ly a place of great note, but is now much
decayed. Here is an archbifhop who en-
joys a very confiderable revenue.
July
TO ISPAHAN. >
July 22cl, having put our carnages on
board another barque, we failed up % the
river to the Lake Ilmen ; and, leaving it
on our right hand, entered .a fmall river
called Mfta, and at night came to Brunitz,
a large village, thirty verft from Novogo-
rod. Here we difcharged our boats ; and,
having procured horfes, we proceeded next
morning thirty verft to the village of
Zaytzoff, from thence to Krafnyftanky,
and then to Kreftitfky, where we changed
horfes, with which we travelled to Yafhil-
bitza. Here begin the Valday-hills, which
run to. a great diftance from eaft to weft,
but are only about twenty or thirty verft
broad. They are moftly covered with
wood. We came next to the town of Val-
day ; this place is pleafantly fnuated at the
foot of the hills, adjoining to a large lake
of the fame name, in the middle of which
is an ifland, whereon Hands a monaftery.
The country in the neighbourhood is hilly,
but not mountainous, exhibiting a beautiful
variety of plain and rifing grounds.
The
S A JOURNEY
The next ftage is Zimogory, and after
that Vifhnoy-volotzoke. Here is a canal
of confiderable extent, cut by Peter the
Firft, which opens a communicatidn by
water from St Peterfburgh to all the places
on the Volga, and many other parts of
Ruffia, and proves a great encouragement
to trade, and very advantageous to the
merchant, in fuch extenfive tracts of land.
Next day we came to Torfhoak, a fmall
town.
The SQth, we arrived at Tweer, a popu-
lous and trading town, defended by a
caftle ; it is the capital of a province, and
a bifhop's feat. It derives its name from
a rivulet in the neighbourhood, called
Tweertza, and ftands on the banks of the
famous river Volga.
The Volga, known formerly by the
name of Rha, has its fource not far to the
weftward of Tweer. At a fmall diflance
from the fource of the Volga, two other
noble rivers take their rife ; the Dnieper,
or Boryfthenes, which run into the Black
Sea
TO ISPAHAN. 9
Sea at Otzakof, and the Duina, which falls
into the Baltic at Riga.
The Volga, after vifiting in its courfe to
the fouth-eaft many fruitful countries, dif-
charges itfelf into the Cafpian Sea, about
fixty verft below Aftrachan ; and, in all
this long courfe, there is not a fingle cata-
ract to interrupt the navigation. As to
fifh, no river in the world can afford great-
er variety, better of their kind, nor in
larger quantities.
Here we tafted the fterlett, a fifh much
and generally efteemed ; it is of the ftur-
geon kind, but feldom grows above thirty
inches long. It is found in other rivers of
Ruffia ; but the Volga produces the bed
and in greateft plenty. The caviare, or
fpawn, is very good to eat raw, after being
cleaned and drefled. 1 never could find a
fifherman who had feen their fry.
The fame day, having changed horfes,
we proceeded on our journey to Gorodna,
a large village, on the weft bank of the
Volga. From this place is feen a charm-
VQL. L B ing
io A JOURNEY
ing landfkip, containing a full view of the
windings of that river.
From hence, after pafling many villages,
we came to Kleen, a pretty large town,
and the laft ftage to Mofco. The country
between Kleen and Mofco is pleafant, ha-
ving many tufts of *wood, of unequal big-
nefs, fcattered among the corn-fields, that
contribute to beautify the country, which
had no great appearance of fertility.
About feven verft from Mofco we paf-
fed through a large village, called Ffe-
fwatzky, inhabited by Chriftians of the
Eaftern church, named Georgians ; their
ancient country was Gurgiflan, now one
of the northerly provinces of Perfia ; they
were driven ftom their native country by
the perfecution of the Perfians ; andj fly-
ing into Ruffia, they there found an hoipi-
table reception, many of them being em-
ployed in the fer vice of the Emperor.
From this place there is a view of the
city of Mofcow, and, at this diftance, few
cities in the world make a finer appear-
ance;
TO ISPAHAN. ii
ance ; v for it ftands on a riling ground, and
contains many (lately churches and rao-
nafteries, whofe fteeples and cupolas are
generally covered either with copper gilt,
or tin plates, which fhine like gold and fil-
ver in the fun.
Auguft 2d we arrived at the city of Mof-.
co. I have omitted the names and diftances
of many inconfiderable places through
which we pafled ; let it fuffice, that the di-
ftance between St Peterfburgh and Mofco is
about feven hundred and thirty verft ; and,
although the hot weather detained us long
on the road, in winter the journey is eafily
performed with fledges in three days.
On the loth of Auguft, my friends,
Meffieurs Lange and Girvan, arrived here
in, their way to China, on a meiTage from
the Czar to the Emperor of China : The
firfl was a Swede, and the other a phyfici-
an, from the county of Air in Scotland.
We flayed in Mofco about three weeks,
having many things to prepare for fo long
a journey. This city, ftanding on an emi-
nence,
12
nence, as was already obferved, commands
an extenfive profpeft of a fine plain coun-
try, adorned with woods and clumps of
trees, mcnafteries, and gentlemen's feats:
The river Mofco runs almoft through it,
which, emptying itfelf into the Volga,
preferves a communication with all the
fouthern parts of Ruffia, and even with
Periia. From thefe advantages in fituation,
this place is very convenient for trade,
which flourilhes here to a confiderable de-
gree.
The city v is fortified with a ftrpng brick-
\vall, called Beligorod, having embrafures
and a ditch. Within this is another wall,
called Kitaygorod : This laft inclofes what
is called the Crimlin, in which is the old
imperial palace, compounded of a number
of buildings, added to one another at dif-
ferent times. Some of the apartments are
very fpacious, particularly that called Gra-
navitapaData, where audience was given to
foreign ambafladors: Adjoining to the pa-
lace are many edifices, where were held
the
TO ISPAHAN. 13
the courts of juftice: Here allb ftands a
lofty tower, wherein is hung the largefl
bell in the world, called Ivan Veleke, weigh-
ing about ten thoufand poods ; which,
reckonipg each pood at near thirty-fix
pounds Englilh, will amount to about ari
hundred and iixty ton weight. Befides
thefe, there is a cathedral church, and an
arfenal, well furnifhed with brafs cannon,
mortars, and other warlike ftores. Be-
yond the brick-walls, already mentioned,
there is an earthen one, of great circum-
ference, round the whole ; abd, without
this, the fuburbs alfo are very extenfive.
The great plenty of provifions in this
place furprifed me not a little ; I found here
fruits of different kinds, which I did not
expect, particularly excellent melons, and
arboozes, or water-melons.
Auguft the 2 i ft, we fhippcd our baggage
on board fix fmall barques, adapted by their
conftrudion, either for fails or oars, as
fhould be moft convenient, and fell down
the river. The ambaflador only remained
at
I 4 A JOURNEY
at Mofco, waiting for fome difpatches from
court. In 'the evening we patted Kolu-
minfka, a village pleafantly fituated on the
fouth fide of the Mofco river, near which
is a large country- houfe, with gardens and
orchards, belonging to the court.
October ^d, we came to Kolumna, a
fortified town. Next day, the wind being
favourable, we hoifted fail, and, after going
about three verft, entered the river Oka,
into which .the Mofco falls and lofes its
name. The Oka rifes in the Ukrain, and
runs to the fouth-eaft ; it contains a great
quantity of water, and is navigable very
far up the country.
The gth, we arrived at Pereflave-refanfky,
a large town to the left, fituated about a
verft from the river Oka ; it is the feat of
an archbifhop, and the country around is
very fruitful in corn.
The 1 6th, we came to Kaffimova, for-
merly the refidence of a Tartar Prince;
but the familv is now converted to Chrif-
M
and retains only the old name of
Kaffi-
TO ISPAHAN". 15-
Kaflimoffky Czarevitz. The place is at
prefent inconfiderable. There are (till here
a few Mahometan Tartars, who are allow-
ed the free exercife of their religion, and
have a fmall oratory. I accompanied our
interpreter to vifit one of them, an old, ac-
quaintance of his: He was a very decent
man ; we faw a horfe newly killed, which
they intended to eat ; they prefer this kind
of food to beef, and invited us to ihare
their repafr, which we declined, pretending
we had not time.
The i yth we left Kaflimova, and the
2ift arrived at Murum, a pretty large
town, and a biftiop's fee. The country
produces plenty of corn. About this place,
there are a few idolatrous Tartars, who live
in little dirty cottages, thinly fcattered ;
they are a very flmple and harmlefs peo-
ple ; how or when they fettled here is not
known.
The 22d we pafled a large village, called
Paulovo- perevoz, the property of Prince
Tzerhafkoy. Its fituation is on the fouth
fide
16 A JOURNEY
fide of the river : Here the banks are much
higher than above this place.
We came the 2jd to Nifhna-novogorod,
a great town, defended by a caftle, ftanding
on the high banks of the Oka, oppofite to
where it lofes itfelf in the Volga, which
now forms a mighty ftream.
The following day we dined at the go-
vernor's, where 1 faw General Creutz,
and feveral other Swedish officers, who
had been taken prifoners at Poltava, and
lived here at large.
The 25th we failed from Nifhna, and
foon entered the Volga. The wind being
northerly, we run along at a great rate ;
but, in the night, the river was fuddenly
rilled with floating ice, which drove us on
a fand bank, where we lay a-ground that
night and all the next day ; however, after
much labour and fatigue, we got clear, al-
though the floating ice ftiil continued. At
laft the wind changed to the fouth, and the
weather turned milder, .which enabled us
to purfue our voyage.
We
TO ISPAHAN. 17
We .next pafled Vafily-gorod, and then
Kofmo-deminnfko, frnall towns, both on
the right.
November 3d we came to Zaback-zar,
a pretty large town, on the fame hand.
In this country are caught the Deft and
largeft faulcons in the world, much efteem- .
ed for their ftrength and beauty, particu-
larly by the Turks and Perfians, who pur-
chafe them very dear. The Ruffians take
few young hawks from the neft, preferring
the old ones, which they man very dex-
troufly to fly at fwan, goofe, cran, or heron.
The Tartars fly them at antelopes and
hares. I have feen them take a wild duck
out of the water, when nothing of her
could be perceived but the bill, which fhe
was obliged to put up for air. Some of
them are as white as a dove. The manner
of catching them is very fimple : They e-
rec~t a tall pole upon a hill, free from wood,
on a bank of tfre river, near which, is pla-
ced a day-net, 'under the net fome fmall
birds are fattened by a cord, which the"
VOL, I. C hawk-
hawk- catcher pulls to make them flatter,
on the appearance of the hawk, who ob-
ferving his prey, firft perches on the pole,
and, when he ftoops to feize the birds, the
perfon, who is concealed by the bufhes,
draws the net and covers him.
The 4th, we pafied Kay-gorod, and the
5th, Swiiaffky, the firft on the left, and the
other on the right hand. This evening we
arrived before the town of Cazan, and
hauled our boats into the mouth of a fmall
river, from which the town has its name,
called Cazanka. We intended to continue
our voyage dircdly to Aftrachan ; but, be-
fore we had made the neceflary preparations
at Cazan, the winter fet in, and, on the 6th
of September, the Volga was filled with
floating ice ; this determined us to winter
at that place ; we therefore unloaded the
boats, and came to the city, where we were
hofpitably received by the governour.
CHAP.
CHAP. II.
Occurrences during ourjlay at Ca%an ;
our journey thence to AJirachan.
CAijAN is about feven hundred and
thirty-five verft from Mofco by land,
but much more by water : It is fituated a-
bout five verft to the north of the Volga,
on a high bank of the rivulet Cazanka,
which is navigable from this place to the
river. The town is ftrong by fituation,
and defended by a caftle, fortified with
walls of brick : Within the citadel are the
cathedral church, the palaces of the arch-
bifhop and governor, and the apartments
for the courts of juflice : The town is
fenced
A JOURNEY
fenced with a ditch and palifades. The
fuburbs are inhabited chiefly by mechanics,
except a ftreet or two poffefled by Maho-
metan Tartars, the pofterity of the ancient
natives ; they live very decently, have the
free exercife of their religion, and many o-
ther privileges ; fome of them are very
rich by the trade they carry on to Turkey,
Perfia, and other places.
Cazan was anciently the capital of a part
of Tartary, and the feat of government,
where the royal family refided. It was ta-
ken from the Tartars by Czar Ivan Vafilo-
viz, in the year fifteen hundred and fifty-
two, -in confequence whereof, an extenfive
country to the fouthward eafily fell into his
hands. The conquered Princes were convert-
ed .to Chriftianity, and had lands affigned
them in their own country, where the fa-
mily flill fubfifts.
The country adjacent is very pleafant
and fertile, producing wheat, rye, barley,
oats, and feveral kinds of pulfe. The
taroods to the fouth and weft confift of ftate-
TO ISPAHAN. It
jy oaks, fufficient to fupply all the navies in
the world ; and from hence St Peterfburgh
is abundantly furnifhed with timber for
all the purpofes of (hip-building, by an ea-
fy conveyance all the way by water. The
woods to the north and eaft, f which are of
prodigious extent, confift of trees of all
forts.
In the fpring, when the fnow melts, the
Volga overflows all the low grounds, fome-
times to a great diftance; the confequence
is the fame with that produced in Egypt,
by the inundations of the Nile; for the
mud, carried down by the ftream, fertilizes
the country to a great degree ; fo that on
the iflands in the Volga, fome whereof are
very large, and overgrown with tall trees,
I have found plenty of excellent afparagus.
Befides the fterlett there are plenty of
ilurgeon, and a fiu\ about the fize and near
the fhape of the largeft falmon, which is
very delicious, and, for the whitenefs of
its flefh, is called the white fifh. .
The
2* A JOURNEY
The woods afford abundance of game J
and, in the fpring, great numbers of water-
fowl come hither to hatch from the Cafpian
Sea. At Cazan we found good beef, mut-
ton, and tame poultry, and provifions of
all kinds very reafonable.
There is here a confiderable manufactory
of Ruffia leather, the hides here being
reckoned the beft in the empire : Great
quantities of this leather are exported to Leg-
horn, and other parts of Europe, x and may
be confidered among the ftaple commodities
of this country : The ftrong fmell of this
leather is acquired in the dreffing, for in-
Head of oil, common in other places, they
ufe a kind of tar, extracted by fire from the
bark of the birch-tree ; which ingredient
the Ruffes call deuggit, and which tree is
here in greater abundance than in other
parts of the world ; and then they dye
them with logwood.
Befides the idolatrous Tartars, formerly
mentioned, there are two pretty numerous
tribes called the Tzerimifh and Tzoowafh,
they
TO ISPAHAN, jy
they fpeak a language quite different from
the Mahometan Tartars in thefe parts, who
ufe a corupted dialed: of the Arabic. The
Mahometans likewife have fome learning ;
but the Tzerimifh and Tzoowafh have
none. They have a tradition among them,
that, in former times, they had a book on
religion ; but, as no body could read it, a
cow came and fwallowed it. They pay
great veneration to a bull. From whence
they came is unknown ; but, from their
completion, it is probable they are from
Afia. They live by agriculture, and feem
to be an inofFenfive kind of people. Their
huntfmen offer in facrifice, to fome deity,
the firft creature they catch. Hence fome
curious men have imagined thefe people
part of the ten tribes of the Jews, expelled
by Shalmanezer. I advance this only as
a conjecture, which every reader may fol-
low, or not, as he pleafes.
By accident I met with an Englifhman
at this place. He was by trade a earpen-
ter.
ter, and had been in the Ruffian fervice ;
but, being fufpected of deferring, he was
condemned to banifhment, to this coun-
try, for a certain time ; and, notwith-
ftanding that was elapfed, the poor man,
deprived of all means of aflerting his li-
berty, remained ftill in the fame fituation.
He bought a Tzerimifh wife, from her fa-
ther, for fix rubles, about thirty fhillings
Sterling. He brought her to vifit me. She
was a woman of a cheerful and open coun-
tenance, and dreffed in the manner of her
country ; of which, for its fingularity, I
lhall give a fhprt defcription.
Her hair was plaited round her head, in
many locks, but that on the back part long-
er than the reft, at the nd of which was
tied a taflel of red filk, and in the middle
a fmall round brafs bell. About her head
was a fillet fet with fmall {hells, inftead of
jewels, and hung all round with filver
pence. Above this was a piece of linen
fo artfully plaited and done up, that it
looked
1715* TO ISPAHAN. 25
looked like a grenadier's cap ; at the top was
a filk taflel, with another brafs bell, which
gingled as fhe turned her head. The reft
of her drefs was clean, though homely ;
and the whole feemed becoming enough.
I think the cold is here more intenfe
than at St Peterfburgh, though it is five or
fix degrees farther fouth. In going about
three miles from town, in a clear day, I
had my face, fingers, and toes frozen, not-
withftanding I was not half an hour on the
road. I applied the common cure, that is,
rubbing the numbed parts with fnow,
which I found perfectly effectual.
December 24th, our ambaflador arrived
from Mofco. At the fame time came an
exprefs from court, with the important
news of the crown Princefs (as fhe was
commonly called) being fafely delivered of
a fon, chriftened by the name of Peter*
She died foon after her delivery, univerfally
lamented for her many rare and excellent
virtues. She was of the Wolffenbuttle fami-
ly, and wife to Alexy Petrovitz, the Cza-
D revitz.
*6 AJOURNEY 1715.
. revitz. Befides this young Prince, fhe left
a Princefs called Natalia.
At Cazan we found two Swedifti gene-
rals, Hamilton and Rofen, and many other
officers of diftin&ion, taken prifoners at
Poltava, who were no farther confined than
by having a foldier of the garrifon to at-
tend them at their lodgings ; and, by the
generofity of the governour, lived as eafily
as circumftances would allow. Thefe gen-
tlemen were invited to all the public di-
verfions ; and, by their polite and agree-
able behaviour, contributed not a little to
our paffing the winter with a good deal of
pleafure, in fuch a remote part of the
world.
Upon the banks of the Cazanka {lands
a monaftery, very pleafantly fituated. I
accompanied our interpreter to vifit the
abbot, who received us in a very friendly
manner. He would not, however, give
the interpreter his bleffing, nor admit him,
into the church, during divine fervice, un-
lefs he pulled off his wig. He, profefllng
the
1716. TO ISPAHAN. 27
the communion of the Greek church, ex-
poftulated a little with the prieft, telling
him that their learned bifhops at Mofco
made no fuch fcruples. The abbot re-
plied, that it was contrary to the rules of
discipline to allow any man to enter the
church with his head covered.
The time was now come when we ex-
peded to leave Cazan. Our boats were
ready in the beginning of May, but the
Volga was ftill fo high and rapid, that it
was reckoned dangerous to proceed till the
flood fubiided ; for the force of the ftream
frequently carries* vefTels from their courfe
into the woods, where the water retiring,
leaves them on dry land.
At laft, on the 4th of June 1716, we
left Cazan in eight barks, and rowed down
the river with great velocity. In the night,
one of our boats was driven, by the rapi-
dity of the current, among the woods, and
ftuck faft between two trees, up which the
people climbed, being apprehenfive of dan-
ger.
28 AJOURNEY 1716.
ger. The confequence, however, was not
fo fatal as the circumftances were alar-
ming ; for the veflel was got off next day
with inconfiderable damage.
The yth, we pafled a fmall town called
Tetoofk, and the 9th Sinbirfky, pretty
large, and the capital of a province of that
name, both to the right. Sinbirfky is de-
fended by a caftle. Near this place are e-
vident marks of camps and entrenchments,
which I was told were the works of the
great Tartar general called Timyrak-fack,
or Lame Timyr, or Tamerlane, who came
to this place with a great army ; but, being
informed of an infurre&ion in his own
country, Samarkant, now Bucharia, re-
turned home.
The loth, we put off from Sinbirfky
with the wind contrary, which greatly re-
tarded our progrefs. We pafled two hills,
one of them exhibiting a very beautiful
profpect, the other containing mines of ful-
phur, as clear as amber. We pafled alfo a
mound of fand, of considerable bignefs, in
the
1716. TO ISPAHAN. 29
the middle of a plain, where they fay xvas
buried a famous Tartar Prince called Ma-
may.
The 2cth, we arrived at the town of
Samara, fituated to the left, in a fine plain.
The place is but fmall, and fortified only
with a ditch and palifades, with wooden
towers at proper ^diftances, mounted with
cannon, fufficient to defend it againft the
incurfions of the Tartars, called Kara Kal-
packs, or Black Caps, who inhabit the de-
fert to the caftward of this place.
This tribe of Tartars is not very confi-
derable, and, when their chiefs are united,
which feldom happens, can fcarce raife a-
bove ten or twelve thoufand men, who are
all mounted on horfeback ; becaufe, in their
long marches, to rob and plunder their
neighbours, nothing but horfe could be of
any ufe. They live always in tents, with
their flocks, removing from place to place,
as led by inclination or neceffity. Their
weapons are bows and arrows, and fabres ;
fome of them ufe fire-arms. While we
were
30 AJOURNEY 1716.
were at Samara, the inhabitants were alarm-
ed with the approach of two or three thou-
fand of thefe people, who encamped about
three miles diftant. From one of the tow-
ers I could plainly fee their camp, and
them riding about it. As they had not ar-
tillery, the garrifon was in no danger, tho'
fo weak, however, that it durft not at this
time attack them. The people were obli-
ged to keep a conftant watch to defend
their cattle. This place is reckoned about
three hundred and fifty verft diftant from
Cazan.
The 2 1 ft, having provided frefh hands
for the navigation of our barks, we depart-
ed from Samara ; and, the weather being
calm, rowed down the river, which is here
very broad. The weftern bank is very high,
but the eaftern quite flat. The fields on
both fides are very fruitful, but efpecially
to the weft, where the grafs grows very
high, intermixed with fage, thyme, and o-
ther herbs ; there are alfo fome woods of
oaks. A few hundred acres of fuch land
would
1716. TO ISPAHAN. 31
would be of great value in England, tho*
it is here wafte and uncultivated.
We came the 2jth to the Ifmeyovi-gory,
or Serpent-hills, fo called from the wind-
ings of the river at this place ; and, after
paffing feveral towns, and many villages, all
on the right, we landed at Saratof, a large
town on the fame fide, about eight hun-
dred and fifty verft from Cazan. It is but
flightly fortified with a ditch, wooden-walls,
and towers mounted with cannon, and de-
fended by a garrifon of regular troops and
Coflacks.
We dined next day with the Governour,
who entertained us with great variety of
provifions, particularly fifh, and very fine
mutton.
After dinner, a party of us crofTed the
river, to vifit a great horfe-market, held by
the Kalmuck Tartars. We faw about five
or fix hundred of thefe people aflembled
in a field, with a number of horfes all run-
ning loofe, except thofe on which the Tar-
tars were mounted. The buyers came
from
32 AJOURNEY 1716.
from different parts of Ruflia* The Tar-
tars had their tents pitched along the river
fide. Thefe tents are of a conical figure.
There are feveral long poles creeled, incli-
ning to one another, which are fixed at
the top into fomething like a hoop, that
forms the circumference of an aperture for
letting out the fmoke, or admitting the
light. Acrofs the poles are laid fome fmall
rods, from four to fix feet long, and faf-
tened to them with thongs : This frame is
covered with pieces of felt, made of coarfe
wool and hair. Thefe tents afford better
fhelter than any other kind, and are fo con-
trived, as to be fet up, taken down, folded,
and packed up, with great eafe and quick-
nefs, and fo light, that a camel may carry
five or fix of them. Where the Chan, or
any perfon of character, refides, they are
placed in ftraight lines. Thefe Tartars are
ftrong made ftout men, their faces broad,
nofes flattifh, and eyes fmall and black, but
very quick. Their drefs is very limple,
confiding of a loofe coat of ftieep fkins tied
with
I 7 i6. TO ISPAHAN. 33
with a girdle, a fmall round cap, turned
up with furr, having a taflel'of red filk at
the top, leather or linen drawers, and boots.
Their heads are all maved, except a lock
behind, which is plaited, and hangs down,
their backs.
They are armed with bows and arrows,
a fabre and lance, which they manage with
great dexterity, acquired by conftant prac-
tice from their infancy. They are men of
courage and refolution ; but much afraid of
cannon, which puts their hories in difor-
der. As they are almoft always on horfe-
back, they are excellent riders.
The drefs of the women differs little
from that of the men ; only their gowns
are fomewhat longer than the coats of the
men, a little ornamented, and bordered with
party-coloured cloth. They wear ear-
rings, and their hair all plaited in locks.
The better fort drefs in filks in fummer. It
muft be obferved, for the honour of their
women, that they are very honeft and fin-
cere, and few of them lewd. Adultery is
VOL. I. E 3
54 A JOURNEY 1716,
a crime fcaice ever heard of. The Tartars
make very good and faithful fervants ; and
the more mildly they are ufed the better
they perform their duty ; for their wan-
dering unconfined manner of life naturally
infpires them with fentiments of liberty,
and averfion and hatred to tyranny and pp-
preflion.
All their wealth is their flocks. Like thofe
who lived in the early ages of the world,
they have camels, horfes, cows, and fheep.
The horfes are of a good fize for the faddle,
and very hardy ; as they run wild till they
are foinetimes fix years old, they are gene-
rally headftrong. They are fold at this fair
at five to fifteen or fixteen crowns, and the
ftnong well fhaped natural pacers much
higher. They have few camels, but many
dromedaries, who have two protuberances
on their backs. Their cows are of a middle
fize ; the fheep large, having broad tails
like thofe in Turkey ; the wool is coarfe,
but the mutton very fine.
In
i 7 i6. tO ISP AH AN. $$
In the preceding century, a Kalmuck
prince, named Torgott-Ghorluke, came from
Alack-Ulla,' (which fignifies the fpotted
mountains), a country fituated between Si-
beria on the north, and India on the fouth,
to the borders of Ruffia ; and brought a-
long with him about fifty thoufand fami-
lies, or tents, as they fometimes reckon.
In his march weftward to the Volga, he
defeated Eyball-utzick a Tartar prince, who
lived in tents beyond the river Enbo. Ad-
vancing forward, he met three other Tartar
chiefs, named Kitta-haptzayj Malebafh, arid
Etzan, whom he alfo defeated ; and at laft
fettled to the eaft of the Volga, under the
protection of the Ruffians. Chorluke had
fix Ions. Dangtzinq, the eldeft, fucceeded
him in the government or ehanfhip;
The prefent Chan$ named Aijuka, is the
fourth from Chorluke, and is much efteem-
ed in the eaft for his fagacity and juftice.
I am informed that the reafon why Chor-
luke left his own country, was a difpute
about the fueceflion to the ehanfhip. He
being
3<5 AJOURNEY 1716.
being engaged on the weakeft fide, and
having unfuccefsfully tried his fortune in
the field, at laft took the refolution of a-
bandoning his own country altogether.
Thefe people are generally called the Black
Kalmucks, though they are not black, but
only fwarthy.
They have no money, except what they
get from the Ruffians, and their other
neighbours, in exchange for cattle. With
this they buy meal fometimes, but moftly
cloth, filk fluffs, and other apparel, for their
women. They have no mechanics, ex-
cept thofe who make arms. They avoid
all labour, as the greateft flavery ; their
only employment is tending their flocks,
managing horfes, and hunting. If they are
angry with a perfon, they wifh he may
live in one place, and work like a Ruffian.
Their language contains none of thofe hor-
rid oaths common enough in tongues of
more enlightened nations. They believe
virtue leads to happinefs, and vice to mife-
ry ; for, when defired to do what they
think
1716. TO ISPAHAN. 37
think wrong, they reply, in a proverb,
* Though a knife be (harp, it cannot cut
1 its own handle.'
On long marches, all their provifions
confift of cheefe, or rather dried curd,
made up into little balls, which they drink
when pounded and mixed with water. If
this kind of food fails, they have always
many fpare horfes, which they kill and eat.
They broil or roaft the flefh before the
fire, on pieces of broken arrows, and never
eat it raw, as is commonly believed, unlefs
compelled by neceffity. They have, in-
deed, large thick pieces of horfe flefh,
fmoked or dried in the fun, which they
eat ; but this cannot properly be called
raw. I have tafted fome of it, and thought
it not amifs.
As to their religion, I can fay little :
They are downright heathens ; and have
many lamas or priefts, who can read and
write, and are diftinguifhed by their yel-
low habits. Their high prieft is called
Delay Lama, and lives far to the eaftward.
July
3 8 AJOURNEY 1716.
July J ft, we put off from Saratof, and
the 2d, yth, and gth, pafled the towns of
Kamofhinka, Czaritza, and Tzorno-yarr,
all fituated on the weft bank, and fortified
in the fame manner as Saratof. At the firft
of thefe places, Captain Perry, an Englifh-
man, with many workmen, was employed
in cutting a canal between the Volga and
the Don, which would have opened a paf-
fage to the Euxine fea ; but the ground
being very hard, and rifing in fome places
confiderably above the level, the enterprife
was laid afide, though the diftance was not
above fifty verft.
From Tzorno-yarr to Aftrachan, it is not
fafe for Ruffians to travel on the weftern
banks of the Volga, on account of the Cu-
ban Tartars, who are their enemies. To
the eaft, however, there is no danger, as
the Kalmucks are friends. On the iflands
in the Volga I obferved great quantities of
liquorifh growing wild.
The 1 3th, we arrived fafe at Aftrachan,
and were lodged in the citadel. This place
was
1716. TO ISPAHAN. 39
was taken from the Tartars in the year
1554, by the warlike Czar Ivan Vafilio-
vitz ; whereby all his concjuefts on the
Volga were fecured, and the way prepared
for farther extending the Ruffian dominion
to the fouth and eaft, which hath w been
fjiccefsfully attempted fince his time.
CHAP.
40 AJOURNEY 1716.
CHAP. III.
Occurrences during our Stay at A-
ftrachan. Our journey thence
to Shamachy.
ASTRACHAN is fituated about
fixty verft from the Cafpian Sea, on
an ifland in the Volga, having the main
branch of that river to the weftward. It is
fortified by a ftrong brick-wall, with em-
brafures, and fquare towers at proper dif-
tances. In the citadel are the cathedral
church, governour's palace, and the public
offices. There is a creek or haven for (hips
that navigate the river and the Cafpian Sea.
The houfes are generally built with wood,
con-
1716. TO ISPAHAN. 41
conveyed in rafts along the river ; for the
neighbouring country produces nothing,
being all a barren defert. To the weft-
ward there is no water to be found for
many miles. The iflands, however, adja-
cent to the town, are very fruitful, and
produce excellent grapes, tranfplanted hi--
ther from Perfia and other parts ; alfo wa-
ter-melons, efteemed the beft in the world ;
and various kino's of mufk-melons, peach-
es, cherries, pears, apples, and apricots.
Here are feveral large vineyards, belong-
ing partly to the court, and partly to pri-
vate perfons. There is a Frenchman who
fuperintends them. The wines are very
good when drunk on the fpot, but cannot
bear carriage, for the leaft motion renders
them infipid. Were it not for this circum-
ftance, Ruffia would be able, not only to
fupply itfelf abundantly with wine, but e-
ven other parts of Europe. This perni-
cious quality is attributed to the nitrous
particles of the foil where the vines grow.
I have myfelf feen, in the furrows made
F for
42 A JOURNEY 1716.
for watering them, a whitifh cruft of fait :
But the grapes, notwithftanding, are very
fweet, without the leaft tincture of tart-
nefs.
About a mile below the town are collec-
ted great quantities of common fait. The
people dig pits, into which they introduce
the water ; which, being exhaled by the
heat of the fun, the fait is left upon the
I
bottom. After gathering, they tranfport it
along the river, in large barks of about five
or fix hundred ton. The gun-powder
manufactory is a little above the town ; in
which, and in the mines of faltpetre, near
this place, are employed a great number of
workmen for the fervice of the govern-
ment.
The climate is healthy, though very hot.
The weather is generally calm, during
which great numbers of gnats mufkitos in-
feft the inhabitants. Thefe vermine indeed
are fometimes difperfed by a breeze from
the fea, which renders this place very plea-
fant. They are hatched and flickered in
the
TO ISPAHAN. 43
the marflies towards the fea, which are fo
i
overgrown with llrong tall reeds that they
are altogether impaflable.
The Mahometan Tartars here live with-
out the town, and have the fame privileges
as in other places. I met feveral 'of their
women in the ftreet with rings in their
nofes, which were of different value, ac-
cording to the rank of the perfon who
wore them ; fome of gold, and others fet
with precious (tones. On inquiring the
reafon of fuch a fingular ornament, I was
told, that it was the confequence of a reli-
gious dedication of thefe perfons to the
fervice of God : It is made by the parents,
even while the mother is pregnant ; in to-
ken whereof, as foon as the child is born,
they put a ring in the right noftril, which
continues there till death. I have feen
fome with two fuch rings.
Aftrachan is a place of confiderable
trade to Perfia, Ghiva, Bucharia, and India.
The people of thefe nations have a commofi
car*-
44 A JOURNEY 1716.
caravanfery, where they live and expofe
their goods to fale.
The Armenians carry on the greateft
part of the Perfian trade ; for the Perfians
themfelves feldom go out of their own
country. There are a few Indians, or Ba-
nians, 4 at this place, who have a ftreak of
yellow down their forehead, made with
faffron or fome other vegetable. They
are a good-natured, innocent kind of peo-
ple, and live moftly on fruits.
The market is plentifully fupplied with
pfovifions of all kinds ; hut efpecially fifh,
of which no place that' I know abounds
with fuch variety. After the fale is over,
which is ufually about ten o'clock, what
remains of the common forts is thrown to
the dung-hill, where the hogs and poultry
feed upon them ; and hence it happens
that their very pork and fowls tafte of fifh,
It would be tedious to mention all the dif-
ferent kinds this place affords : I cannot
however omit the carp, which for fize ex-
ceeds all of that name I ever heard of. I
have
1716. TO ISPAHAN. 4.$
have feen fome of them of more than thir-
ty pound weight, very fat and lufcious.
Thofe caught in autumn are carried to
Mofco frozen, and fold there and in the
places adjacent.
I obferved alfo a great variety of uncom-
mon birds, whereof I {hall defcribe a few
that feemed moft extraordinary.
The firft I (hall mention, called by the
Ruffians baba, is of a gray colour, and lar-
ger than a fwan ; he has a broad bill, un-
der which hangs a bag that may contain a
quart or more ; he wades near the edge of
the river, and on feeing a ihoal of fry, or
fmall fifties, fpreads his wings and drives
them to a fhallow, where he gobbles as
many of them as he can into his bag, and
then going alhore, eats them, or carries
them to his young. This bird I take to
be the pelican.
The next is altogethef white, except its
feet, which are black ; it is fomewhat lefs
than a heron, and has a long broad bill.
The
46 A JOURNEY 1716,
The Germans call this bird leffel-ganze*
the Ruffians kolpeck.
There is another about the fame fize,
alfo white ; but its feet are long and red,
and its bill crooked and. round, and as red
as coral : Its wings are adorned with fome
bright fcarlet feathers.
Befides thefe, I faw a kind of duck,
fomething bigger than the common fort,
called turpan ; it is eafily tamed, and much
admired for its beauty, and a certain kind
of noife peculiar to itfelf. I have eat of
all thefe fowls ; but did not much relifli
them, on account of the fifhy tafte with
which they are all infected.
There are alfo patridges and buftards,
which need no defcription. The Kal-
mucks, who are keen fportfmen, particu-
larly at hawking, in which they have ar-
rived to a great perfection, kill the buftards
with bows and arrows : When they fee
them feeding, they ride in upon them at
full fpeed ; and as the buftard is a heavy
bird, and mounts (lowly, they have an op-
portu-
1716. TO ISPAHAN. 47
portunity of (hooting them with broad-
headed arrows.
On the banks of the Volga there is a
fpecies of deer of a brighter red, and forrie-
what larger than the fallow-deer ; they
have green horns, but not branched, about
nine inches long, and covered with circles,
rifing one above another to the point,
which is very (harp. This deer is very
fwift, and its flefh excellent ;^it has a high
fnout of griftle, which rifes very near to
the eyes a circumftance which I have
not obferved in any other animal.
I faw alfo a fmall lively creature, called
an Aftrachan hare, about the fize of a
fquirrel, and of a reddifh colour, remark-
able for having the fore-feet very fhort in
proportion to the hind-feet ; its tail is
long, with a tuft of hair at the extremity ;
it burrows in the earth, and being a very-
pretty creature, I have fometimes feen them
in cages. The Kalmucks eat them very
greedily.
48 A JOURNEY 1716.
While we were at Aftrachan, an ambaf-
fador arrived there, from the Chan of
Chiva, going to St Peterfburgh. On his ar-
rival he fent, according to the eaftern cuf-
tom, fome fmall prefentto our ambafiador ;
they were brought by part of his retinue,
and confided of a hawking glove, a fmall
knife, an embroidered purfe, and fome
fruits.
Chiva is a large territory, lying about two
or three days journey eaftward from the Caf-
pian Sea ; bounded by Perfia on the fouth,
and Bucharia to the eaft. The capital,
which bears the fame name, is large and
populous, and governed by a Chan, eleded
by the people. They are very troublefome
and dangerous, both to travellers and their
neighbours, being frequently employed
either in robbing the former, or making
depredations on the latter. And though
Chiva is well fortified, its fituation, in fo
fandy and barren a defert, is its bed defence.
One day, as I was walking through the
ftreets of Aftrachan, I obferved a very fm-
gular
1716. TO ISPAHAN. 49
guiar appearance : It was a pretty Tartar
lady, mounted aftride upon an ox ; (he
had a ring in her nofe, and a firing drawn
through the nofe of the ox, which ferved
inftead of a bridle : She was drefled better
than common, and attended by a footman.
The fmgularity of the equipage, but parti-
cularly her extraordinary beauty, drew my
attention. The Mahometan muft not be
confounded with the Kalmuck Tartars ;
the firft are a well-looked civilized people
in comparifon of the other.
Before I leave Aftrachan it may be pro-
per to rectify a miftaken opinion, which I
have obferved frequently to occur in grave
German authors, who, in treating of the
remarkable things of this country, relate,
that there grows in this defert, or ftepp,
adjoining to Aftrachan, in fome plenty, a
certain mrub or plant, called in the Ruffian
language Tartarfkey barafhka, i. . Tartari-
an lamb, with the fkin of which the caps
of the Armenians, Perfians, Tartars, &c.
are faced. They alfo write, that this Tar-
VOL. I. G tarfkey
$o AJOURNEY 1716.
tarfkey barafhka partakes of animal as well
as vegetative life j that it eats up and de-
vours all the grafs and weeds within its
reach. Though it may be thought that
an opinion fo very abfurd could find no
credit with people of the meaneit {hare of
understanding, yet I have converfed with
fome who have feemed much inclined to
believe it ; fo very prevalent is the pro-
digious and abfurd with fome part of man-
kir>d.
In fearch of this wonderful plant I walk-
ed many a mile, accompanied by Tartars
who inhabit thefe deferts : But all I could
find out were fome dry bufhes, fcattered
here and there, which grow on a fingle
flalk, with a bumy top, of a brownifh co-
lour; the ftalk is about eighteen inches
high, the top confiding of {harp prickly
leaves. It is true, that no grafs or weeds
grow within the circle of its*fhade; a pro-
perty natural to many other plants here
and elfewhere. After further inquiry of
the more fenfible and experienced among
the
1716. TO ISPAHAN. 51
the Tartars, I found they laughed at it as a
ridiculous fabje.
At Aftrachan they have great quantities
of lamb-fkins, gray and black ; fome wa-
i
ved, others curled, all naturally, and very
pretty, having a fine glofs, particularly the
waved* which* at a fmall diftance, appear
like the richeft watered tabby : They are
much efteemed, and are much ufed for the
lining of coats, and the turning up of caps,
in Perfia, Ruflia, and other parts. The
beft of thefe are brought from Bucharia,
Chiva, and the countries adjacent, and are
taken out of the ewe's belly, after fhe
hath been killed, or the lamb is killed im-
mediately after it is lambed ; for fuch a
{kin is equal in value to the ftieep.
The Kalmucks, and other Tartars, who
inhabit the defert, in the neighbourhood of
Aftrachan, have alfo lamb-fkins, which are
applied to the fame purpofes ; but the wool
of thefe .being rougher, and more hairy,
they are far inferior to thofe of Bucharia or
Chiva, both in glofs and beauty, as- alfo jn
the
52 A JOURNEY 1716.
the dreffing, confequently in value. I have
known one Tingle lamb-fkin of Bucharia
fold for five or fix {hillings Sterling, when
one of thefe would not yield two {hil-
lings.
On the jth of Auguft we quitted Aftra-
chan in five veflels, three of them flat-bot-
tomed, and of about an hundred and fifty
tons burthen, with three mafts and ten guns
each ; the other two common barks. We
failed from Aftrachan about noon ; and
at night came to an anchor at a fifhery,
called Uttzugg. Both the banks are now
flat ; to the weftward barren fands, and to
the eaft marfhy and tall reeds, abounding
with vermine ; fo that we neither eat nor
flept in quiet, notwithstanding all the pre-
cautions we could ufc. I muft confefs
this place had an afped of horror, efpeci-
ally when it is coniidered, that, befides the
wild and difmal appearance of the banks, we
were carried down a mighty river, into a
great gulf, in many places of dangerous
navigation, and whofe fhores are inhabited
by
t'fi6. TO ISPAHAN. 53
by inhofpitable and barbarous nations ; for
fuch I reckon all of them, except the Ruf-
fians and Perfians.
Next morning, at break of day, we got
under fail, and about ten entered the Caf-
pian Sea ; into which the river difcharges
itfelf by feven or eight large channels, and
many lefler ones : Two only of thefe chan-
nels are navigable by {hips of any burthen.
At night we caft anchor near four hillocks
of dry fand, caft up by the fea, called
Tzeterey Bugory, computed to be about
thirty verft from the mouth of the Volga :
All which diftance we had not above fix
or feven feet water ; and even this depth
is very narrow ; fo that the paflage is ex-
tremely dangerous in hard gales of wind.
The yth, early, we again fet fail with a
gentle breeze from the fhore, which foon
drove us into three fathom water, and cut
of fight of land ; the water however Hill
continued frefh as the river. About neon
the wind fhifted to the fouth, which obli-
ged us to come to an anchor, where we
lay
54. A JOURNEY 1716.
lay for near three weeks in calms and con-
trary winds.
All this time we did not fee a fingle fhip,
befides our own, except one Rufsveffel that
came from Guilan in Perfia, with fome
Armenian merchants, who made a prefent
to' the ambaflador of a bafket of oranges,
melons, and other fruits, which was the
more acceptable, as our own provifions of
that kind were all fpent. As often as the
weather would permit we got under fail,
and endeavoured to reach the road of
Terky, a fmall fortified town, belonging to
the Ruffians, on the north-weft corner of
the Cafpian Sea, where we might be fup-
plied with provifions; but the continual
calms prevented our fuccefs.
On the evening of the 26th of Auguft
the wind changed to the north-weft ; we
hqifted all the fail we could, fleering our
courfe fouth fouth-eaft, and before night
pafled the ifland of Tullen, i. e. of Seals ;
many of which animals haunt this place*
Tt continued to blow hard the whole
night;
1716. TO ISPAHAN. 5
night ; and next morning we were in fight
of- the mountains called Shaffkall, which
were diftant about fifteen leagues. We pro-
ceeded the whole day, edging always a little
nearer to the fliore.
The 28th, in the evening, it fell calm ;
and, being about fix leagues off the land,
we caft anchor. Next day, the wind blow-
ing fair, in the afternoon we pafled the
town of Derbent. The ambaflador order-
ed the caftle to be faluted with nine guns ;
but it feems the people are, not accuftomed
to make any return. It is a place confider-
ably large, and the frontier of Perfia in this
quarter. It is fortified in the ancient man-
ner, with a ftrong (lone- wall, which reach*-
es from the mountains to the (here t fothat
no army can pafs this way, except moun-
taineers, or Tartars, who find roads every
where. Derbent, being a place of great
confequence, is provided plentifully with
cannon and ammunition, and a ftrong gar-
rifon, governed by a commandant appoint-
ed by the chan, or governor of Shamachy,
on
56 A JOURNEY 1716,
on which province it depends. It is re-
ported that it was built by Alexander the
Great. About the place there ftill remain
feveral monuments of antiquity ; particu-
larly large ftones, with infcriptions in un-
common characters. South from Derbent
ftands ?i very high mountain, called Shach-
dagh, the top of which is covered with
fnow the whole year round, though the
vallies are exceedingly hot.
Auguft the 30th, we arrived at Nieza-
batt, the place where we intended to land,
on the territories of Perfia. It lies about
two days journey eaft from Derbent.
There being no harbour, nor creek, we
hauled up our (hips upon the fhore, which
we performed with little trouble, as they
were all fiat-bottomed.
The hip in which was our Secretary,
Monfieur Venigerkind, and feveral other of-
ficers, did not arrive till about three o'clock
afternoon. The wind was\now very high,
and a great fea upon the beach, which o-
bliged them to drop an anchor in the open
road ;
1716. TO ISPAHAN. 57
road ; but the wind blowing dill harder, it
became dangerous to ride there ; the (kip-
per, therefore, dipt the cable, and flood out
to fea. The gentlemen, however, did not
like their fituation on board ; and, being
eager to get to land, ordered the mafter to
run the fhip afhore, and they would be ac-
countable for the confequences ; which he,
a Hollander, in the Czar's fervice, unwil-
lingly complied with, under an eafy fail,
about two miles eaftward of the place where
we lay. All hands went to their affiftance,
but without effect ; for, though the fhip
had received no damage, yet the fea run fo
high, that the boat could not be hoifted
out, to carry them to land.
In the mean time, the fecretary, impa-
tient of remaining on board in fuch circum-
flances, prevailed with one of the failors to
carry him afhore on his back : which being
done, he took his way alone towards the
other fhips ; but, his cloaths being drench-
ed in the falt-water, and the road lying
through deep fands, he was foon fatigued,
VOL. I. H and
58 A JOURNEY 1716
and therefore retired nearer to the woods,
in hopes of finding a more fmooth and
eafy path. He difcovered what he fought ;
but, inftead of leading him to the flijps, it
carried him away from the fhore, and the
right courfe, into thick incumbered woods ;
and in thefe circumftances night overtook
him, utterly ignorant of the difmal and
dangerous wild into which he had wander-
ed. Thus deftitute of all affiftance, he
climbed a tree to fave himfelf from the
wild beafts with which thefe woods a-
bound ; and in this fituation continued all
the night, and till noon next day ; for the
people in his own (hip never doubted of
his having fafely reached our tents ; while
we, on the contrary, had not the leaft fu-
fpicion of his having come afhore. At laft,
however, about noon, his fervant came, in-
quiring for his matter, who, he told us, left
the fliip the night before. This account
filled us all with anxiety and apprehen-
fion ; as we certainly concluded he would
cither be torn to pieces by the wild beafts,
or
1716. TO ISPAHAN. 59
or murdered by the favages who inhabit
thefe coafts. Immediate order was given
for all our people to repair to the woods
in fearch of him. He was at laft found
wandering from path to path, without
knowing one direction from another.
When he came to the tents he looked
ghaftly and wild, and related many ftrange
itories of what he had heard in the night.
All poflible care was taken to alleviate his
diftrefs. During his fleep, which was very
difcompofed, he often ftarted, groaned, and
fpoke ; and, even after he awaked, he
perfifted in affirming that there were num-
bers of people round the tree, in the night,
talking different languages. The imagina-
tion, no doubt, will naturally have a ftrong
effect on any man in fuch uncommon cir-
cumftances ; for, though the fecretary was
a man of penetration and found judgment,
in vain did we endeavour to undeceive
him, by reprefenting that it was nothing
but the jackals which made the noife he
had heard. 5 and that, to be convinced of
the
60 A JOURNEY
the truth of this affirmation, he needed on-
ly, at the approach of night, to ftep a little
from the tents, where he would hear the
fame founds repeated. All was to no pur-
pofe, fince he infilled that the noife he
heard was quite different from the yelpings
of the jackals. He fcarce ever recovered
his former fagacity and foundnefs of mind.
I muft confefs the fituation of this gentle-
man moved me not a little, as he was a
man of parts and learning, with whom I
had contracted an intimate friendfhip.
Since I have mentioned the jackals, it
may not be improper to give a fhort ac-
count of thefe animals. They are of a fize
larger than a fox, of the fhape and colour
of a wolf, whh a fhort bumy tail. They
dig burrows in the earth, in which they
lie all day, and come out in the night to
range for prey. They afTemble in flocks
among the woods, and frequently near
towns and villages, when they make the
hideous noife formerly mentioned, refem-
bling, in fome meafure, a human voice, or
the
1716. TO ISPAHAN. 61
the noife of the Tartars and Coflacks when
they attack their enemies. They have fine
nofes ; and hence the vulgar opinion has
arifen, that they hunt -prey for the lion.
They are in great plenty all over Perfia,
and efleemed harmlefs creatures.
As foon as we landed, the ambaffador
defpatched an interpreter to Schamachy,
to notify his arrival to the governour of
that place, and to defire him to fend camels
and horfes to tranfport him thither. The
interpreter was kindly received, and an or-
der was immediately ifTued out for anfwer-
ing his demands.
September the i ft, the chan of JShama-
chy fent an officer of diftinction to falute
the ambaffador ; and the next day a prefent
of provifions, confifting of an ox, fome
fheep, with fruits and confections.
About fix or eight leagues to the eaft.-
ward of Niezabatt is a high rock, called
Barmach, or the finger, upon the fhore,
which a great many of the Armenians vi-
fit annually, to pay their devotions. They
have
6t A JOURNEY 1716.
have a tradition, that the prophet Elijah
lived fome years at this place.
September 2d, we were a little alarmed
with intelligence, that a confiderable body
of mountaineers had plundered fome vil-
lages in our neighbourhood. We had not
yet received any guard from the Perfians,
and were therefore obliged to take every
precaution poflible for our defence. We
armed all our own people, and all the fail-
ors ; and, befides thefe, we had twenty fol-
diers from the garrifon of Aftrachan. Can-
non were brought from the fhips, and
planted in proper places, to prevent a fur-
prife. Thefe preparations feem to have in-
timidated the undifciplined favages, for
they never attacked us.
Two days journey eaftward from Nieza-
batt ftand Abfheroon and Backu, two con-
fiderable towns. At the former is a good
harbour, reckoned the beft in the Cafpian
Sea, except that of Aftrabatt, which lies in
the fouth-eaft corner of it. All the reft are
fo
1716. TO ISPAHAN. 5 3
fo dangerous, that they fcarce deferve the
name of harbours.
In the neighbourhood of Backu are ma-
ny fountains of Naphtha ; it is a fort of
petroleum, of a brown colour, and inflam-
mable nature. The Perfians burn it in their
lamps ; no rain can extinguifh it ; but the
fmell is difagreeable. I have feen of it as
clear as rock-water.
The Cafpian Sea is of an oblong irre-
gular figure, about one hundred and fifty
leagues in length, from north to fouth,
and forty or fifty leagues broad. The wa-
ter is exceflively fait, except where it is
fweetened by the Volga, which is at leaft
to the diftance of ten leagues from the in-
flux of that river.
The navigation of the Cafpian belongs
folely to the Ruffians ; the Perfians, and o-
ther borderers, having nothing but fifhing
boats. It contains abundance of fifh ; but
no ihell-fifh, except a kind of cockle, the
fhells of which are very pretty. In fome
places,
64 A JOURNEY 1716.
places, there is a great depth of water, The
Perfians obferve that, of late, the fea has
retired confiderably from the fhore ; which
they reckon ominous, prefaging fome cala-
mity to the kingdom. It has no tides, but
fuch as are caufed by the wind ; and, not-
withftanding the great quantities of water
daily received, it continues nearly about the
fame height. Dr Halley has demonstrated,
that exhalation, in fo hot a climate, isfuffi-
cient to account for this phenomenon,
without having recourfe to fubterraneous
paflages.
The 4th, I was conducted by an Arme-
nian merchant fome leagues from our
tents, to vifit a Perfian. We were received
in a very complaifant and friendly man-
ner ; the houfe was clean, and the floor
fpread with carpets. Our entertainment
confifted of coffee and boiled rice.
On the nth, arrived two Jefuits from
India, named Valery and Martinet, on their
way to Rome. They petitioned the am-
baflador for a paffage in one of our fhips
to
1716. TO ISPAHAN. 65
to Aftrachan, which was granted. About
this'time many of our retinue began to be
feized with different difeafes, particularly
fevers, fluxes, and agues, which, in a few
days, made fuch progrefs, that, at the am-
baflador's table, where feldom fewer than
ten dined, he and myielf only were pre-
fent. Thefe diftesnpers exhibited a moft
difagreeable profpedt, and made us wifh
earneftly to leave a jplace that threatened
our deftruction. For this purpofe, meflen-
gers were daily fent to the chan of Shama-
chy to defpatch the camels, horfes, and
mules. Some of thern, indeed, were al-
ready come, but not near the number we
needed ; for our numerous fick could on-
ly be tranfported on litters carried by
mules.
The 1 2th, a conductor, called Mayman-
der, arrived, with a guard of Perfian fol*
diers, and fome more cattle, which were
ftill too few. This officer is appointed by
the Shach or King to guide ambafladors to
court, and furnifh them with provifions,
VOL. L I eat-
66 A JOURNEY 1716.
carriages, and lodgings, at the Shach's ex-
pence, from the time they enter the king-
dom.
Having accommodated ourfelves in the
beft manner we could, we quitted Nieza-
batt on the i8th, keeping along the fhore ;
and, at night, came to a fmall village, about
three agatz from Niezabatt. We found the
houfes all empty, the people haying fled to
the woods or mountains on our approach.
The 2Oth, we reached a village about
four agatz (an agatz is reckoned to be four
Englifh miles) from the former, where we
lodged again in empty houfes; and the 2ift
proceeded four agatz further, to a brook of
white and muddy water, where we pitched
our tents. About noon, next day, we came
to a fountain of pure water, under a great
oak. Here we halted two hours, to re-
frefh the fick ; and, after travelling four
agatz further, arrived at an old caravanfe-
ry ; a long day's journey for people in
fuch diftrefs.
The
1716. TO ISPAHAN. 67
The caravanferies are generally large
fquare buildings, with a court in the middle.
All round there are rooms for lodging tra-
vellers, and on one fide a ftable for horfes.
They are of different fizes and conftruo
tions, according to the bounty or ability
of the founder. Some are built by chari-
table people, others by good kings. They
are fituated as near frefh water as poffible,
and about a day's journey from one ano-
ther.
As there are no inns in the eaft, thefe
caravanferies in fome meafure fupply that
defect, though nothing is found in them
but fhelter. They are, however, very con-
venient for travellers ; and fome of them
can contain five hundred men, with their
horfes. There is commonly an old man,
who cleans the rooms, and fetches neceffa-
ries from the next town or village.
The 23d, we halted to refrefh the fick ;
and here we buried two of our mechanics.
The 24th, we travelled to a ruinous ca-
ravanfery, about four agatz from the for-
mer*
68 A JOURNEY 1716.
mer. This was the firft inftance that oc-
curred of remiffnefs and inattention in the
prefent government of Perfia ; for the King,
without attending to his own affairs, allows
himfelf to be guided entirely by thofe whofe
intereft it is to deceive him. Nothing, in
the judgment of a foreigner, 'can render a-
ny people more contemptible than the no-
torious negled: of fuch ufeful public edifi-
ces. This day we received another fupply
of provifions from the chan.
The 26th, we travelled to a plain within
a league of Shamachy, where we lay all
night, to be received into the town the day
following, in form and ceremony, accor-
ding to the cuftom of Perfia. At this place
died my friend, Captain Jacques de Vil-
lette. He was a gentleman of a good fa-
mily in France, and a very worthy mam
And, befides the Captain, two fervants died
here.
CHAP,
1716. TO ISPAHAN. 69
CHAP. IV.
Occurrences during our Stay at Sha-
machy. Our journey thence to
Tauris.
TH E 2/th, in the morning, came the
Kalentar and Dorruga, with many
of the inhabitants, to pay their compli-
ments to the ambaflador. Thefe officers are
next in rank under the chan, and have the
fole direction of affairs in his abfence. They
brought fome fine horfes, richly caparifon-
ed, for the chief of the retinue. As we ap-
proached the place, we were met by other
officers, particularly the Divan, Begg, and
Ifh-agaiTy, and magiftrates, all mounted on
ftately horfes, with rich furniture, which
made
70 AJOURNEY 1716.
made a very fplendid appearance. Before
the ambaflador's horfe two young fellows
tumbled all the way, with great agility. A-
bout two o'clock we entered the city.
As we pafled along the ftreets, all the
tops of the houfes were filled with fpecla-
tors. At laft, the ambaffador arrived at the
houfe of one of the principal officers, which
was allotted entirely to him and his atten-
dants. The houfes in Perfia are moftly
flat-roofed. As there is but little rain in
this country, a very fmall declivity is fuffi-
cient to carry off the water. I compute the
diftance between Niezabatt and Shamachy
to be about twenty-five agatz, or an hun-
dred miles.
October ift^ I had a vifit from a gentle-
man well drefled in the Perfian habit, and
was not a little furprifed to hear him talk
good High Dutch. After fome converfa-
tion, he told me he was born at Dantzick ;
that in his youth he came to Perfia with a
Polifh ambafiador, who died at Ifpahan.
That, fome differences arifing between him
and
1716. TO ISPAHAN. JT
and his countrymen, to end the difpute he
turned Mahometan, and fettled in Perfia,
where he now enjoyed a fmall falary as a
linguift. He had often repented of this
rafh ftep ; but, having a wife and children
at Shamachy, he could not abandon them.
The day following, the chan, with a
numerous retinue, paid a ceremonial vifit
to the ambafiador. The chan is a middle
aged man, of a graceful afpect, by birth a
Georgian, of Chriftian parents, but brought
up at court from his infancy : And it muft
be confefled that his treatment of the am-
baflador was extremely obliging.
The I4th, the chan fent an invitation
to the ambaflador to go a hunting, with
horfes for that purpofe. We marched a-
bout two or three miles to the eaftward, till
we came to a plain overgrown with fhort
reeds. We fprung a number of pheafants,
ten or fifteen whereof were killed by the
chan's hawks ; and feveral hares were run
down by the greyhounds, which were all
fent to the ambaflador's lodgings^
About
7* AJOURNEY 1716.
About this time, there happened a mif-
underftanding between the ambafTador and
fecretary, by the imprudence of the latter.
It is cuftomary for the Shach to make pre-
fents in money, or other things, to all am-
bafladors, according to the dignity of their
refpective matters ; and, though no money
had yet been granted, the unlucky fecretary,
poor gentleman ! not quite recovered, by
an unfeafonable and ill advifed claim, pre-
tended a right to part of the future dona-
tive. The ambaflador, on the contrary,
alledged, that the fecretary was entitled to
nothing from him, except the privilege of
his table, and provifions for his fervants.
Both my fituation in the retinue, and an
indifpofition, prevented my intermeddling
in this difpute. I only advifed the fecreta-
ry to poftpone his claim till fome more fa-
vourable opportunity. My advice, howe-
ver, had no effect, for the difference ftill
increafed, till the fecretary fell fick, and
was confined to his lodgings, where he died
fuddenly, on the 5th of November.
This
1716. TO ISPAHAN. 73
This event was the more melancholy to
me, in particular, as it was unexpected.
By the death of this gentleman, I was de-
prived of another worthy friend. He was
a Saxon by birth ; was candid, honeft, and
fmcere ; and much efteemed by all his ac-
quaintance, for his learning and capacity.
A few days after, there arrived at Schama-
chy a Periian ambaflador, who had been in
France, and had returned homeward thro*
Ruffia. His behaviour in France, and in
other places, had been little for the honour
of his mafter. The miniftry at Ifpahan
had perfect intelligence of his whole con-
duct, which he came to unilerftand ; and,
being afraid to undergo a trial at court^
went directly to the city of Erivan, the
place of his residence when in his own
country, where, as it was reported, he poi-
foned himfelf. He had treated a French
engineer, whom he engaged in the fervice
of his mafter, fo cruelly, that he died two
days after coming to Shamachy.
VOL. I. K The
5^ A JOURNEY 1716.
The 25th, I dined with father Peter Ri-
card, in company with Monfieur Bourgard,
a French' merchant. This father hath lived
as a miffionary in. different places of Perfia
for many years : He had ftudied phyfic,
which he pracYifed occafionally, and there-
by introduced himfelf to an acquaintance
with many families of diftindtion : He is a
man of a grave and fober deportment,
which procures him great refpeft : He has
a fmall congregation at this place, confifting
only of Chriftian Armenians, who have
been converted from the communion of the
Eaftern to the Weftern Church; for it is a
capital crjme to convert a Mahometan.
Bourgard was employed by the Englifh fac-
tory at Ifpahan, to buy raw filks here to
be fent to Aleppo.
The ambaflador fent a prefent to the
chan, of fables, and other rich furs, of con-
fiderable value ; and had, in return, a fine
horfe, with a faddle, bridle, and other trap-
pings, mounted with gold.
Some
TO ISPAHAN. 75
Some time after, there arofe a difpute
between the ambaflador and the chan, a-
bout the Shach's gratuity; the firft thought
the fum offered was too fmall, while the
latter affirmed he had no authority for a
greater allowance. The determination of
this affair detained us longer than we in-
tended to ftay ; however, in the mean time,
camels and horfes were ordered to be got
ready. After many meflages o'n both fides,
the chan, unwilling to let the Ambaflador
depart unfatisfied, fent Monfieur Bourgaifd
with an offer of ten tomans (a toman is e-
qual to three pounds Sterling,) a-day, du-
ring his journey to Ifpahan, and that fum
for three days only of the time he conti-
nued at Shamachy : This propofal was at
laft accepted, and the money paid. I (hall,
before we leave this place, add a few re-
marks on the city and its environs.
Shamachy is fituated in about 40 degrees
north latitude : It was anciently part of
Media; but now the capital of an extenfive
province; called Shirvan. The city ftand^
oa
'? A JOURNEY 1716.
on the declivity of a hill, inclining to the
fouth, and rifes toward the top in form of
an amphitheatre : The place is large, but
the houfes are meanly built, excepting thofe
of the governour, the chief magiftrates, and
a few rich merchants ; the ftreets are nar-
row and irregular : The greater part of the
inhabitants are Perfians ; there is alfo a
considerable number of Georgians and Ar-
menians: The vulgar language is Turkifh,
but the people of (Mindion fpeak Perfian.
The air is more healthy than at places nearer
to the Cafpian Sea.
Above the town, on the fummit of the hill,
Hands an high edifice, having many win-
dows and a gallery, in which, every day at
the rifmg and fetting of the fun, is held a
kind of concert of muiic, compofed of long
trumpets, large drums, and hautboys, which
make a dreadful found. It is reported,
that this cuftom is as ancient as the time of
Alexander the Great.
There are alfo in the city feveral mofques,,
with high pillars adjoining^, which the
moulla
1716. TO ISPAHAN. 77
moulla or prieft afcends every day at twelve
o'clock, to call the people to prayers ; for
the Mahometans ufe no bells. They have,
befides, feveral public baths, fome for men,
others for the women, to which both fexes
refort daily for ablution, conformably 'to
the law of their religkm. The women go
generally in companies of five or fix, fo
concealed with a white veil, that nothing
of them is vifible but the eyes and nofe.
There are feveral fpacious caravanferies,
very convenient for Grangers or merchants,
who there expofe their commodities, for
which they pay a,fmall impoft.
There is a confiderable traffick at this
place, particularly in raw filk, which is pro-
duced in the neighbourhood ; the greateft
part whereof is purchafed 4 by the Englifh
and Dutch factories at Ifpahan, and fent to
Aleppo ; alfo cotton, which indeed is moftly
fold to the natives, and confumed in fluffs
for their own ufe. The country about
Shamachy, befides many kinds of fruits,
prqduces plenty of wheat, barley, and very
fine
7* , A JOURNEY 1716.
fine grapes, from which the Chriftians make
very good wine ; they keep it in great jars
refembling the Florence oil ones, which
they depofit under ground in their gardens,
covering them above with a thin ftone,
neatly pafted about the edges, for. the bet-
ter prefervation of the liquor. When they
give an entertainment, they fpread carpets
round the jar, which is generally placed in
a fhade, and on thefe the guefts are feated.
About two miles to the northward of the
city, ftands a high mountain, named Gui-
liftan-dagh, where are feen the ruins of an
ancient caftle, built of ftone ; it appeared
not to be of Eaftern architecture. 1 could
procure no information who was the foun-
der, or by whom it was demolimed. Ad-
joining to this mountain is another, on
which are the tombs of two faints, or he-
roes ; whither great numbers of devout
people come annually to worship. I ob-
ferved near thefe combs, feveral hallowed
rocks covered with fmall fhelis brought hi-
ther by the worfhippers ; I obferved like*
wife,
1716. TO ISPAHAN.
wife, on the common rocks, many fhells
imprinted and petrified, which feemed very
extraordinary.
December 4th, all things being prepared
for our departure, we were furnimed by
the conductor, or maymander, -with one
hundred and fixty camels, and near two
hundred horfes and mules, on which we
left Shamachy, travelling along the rifing
grounds. We halted two days at an Ar-
menian village, called Kalck-anii.
On the yth, we defcended into a defert
plain, called by the Ruffians Mugan, and
by the Perfians Kurdiftan. At mid-night
we came to fome wells of brackifh water,
where we lodged in fuch tents as are ufed
by the inhabitants, which were prepared by
the conductor.
We proceeded the loth five agatz, to a
little copfe-wood, where was found tolera-
ble water, and the nth, arrived at the ri-
ver Kure, or Cyre, which we pafled on a
bridge of boats, and pitched our tents on
the
go A JOURNEY 1716.
the other fide. The water of the river is
fweet and wholefome.
About half a league above the bridge,
the river Araxis, now Arras, falls into the
Kure, which together form a confiderable
ftream, that difcharges itfelf into the Caf-
pian Sea, about a day's journey below the
bridge, running northward all the way ;
but the mouth of the river is fo choaked up
\vith fand, that it is navigable by iio vefTel
of any burden.
The river Kure divides the province of
Shirvan from Kurdiftan. The Kurdy, pro-
bably fo called from the name of the river,
are a very ancient people, and feem to be
the fame whom Xenophon, in the AnabafiSj
calls Karduchi, who fo ftrenuoufly oppo-
fed his paflage in his famous retreat from
Artaxerxes. They are ftill reckoned a
brave people. Their horfes are moft e-
fteemed of any in Perfia, both for beauty
and ftrength.
We left the Kure on the I3th, and pro-
ceeded feven agatz to Chuda-tzoolatzy,
where
TO ISPAHAN. 8x
where the water was very brackifti and
muddy. The country around appeared
plain as the fea.
Setting out early next morning, we tra-
velled ten agatz, and in the evening reach-
ed a brook of tolerable water, called Bolgar*
This was the laft day's journey in the plain
of Mugan. The inhabitants, the Kurdy,
live in tents all the year. The foil is very
dry and barren, notwithftanding the cattle
are in good condition, and the mutton par-
ticularly very good.
While we halted about noon, fome Per-
fian fportfmen, who, by their drefs, feemed
perfons of diftinction, pitched their tents
near ours : They fent the ambafTador a pre-
fent of wild-fowl, and an antelope. The
ambaflador invited them to mare a travel-
ler's dinner. Three of the gentlemen ac-
cepted the invitation, butexcufed themfelves
from eating any thing, pretending they had
already dined ; but it is well known that
the Mahometans fcruple to eat with Chrif-
tians ; each of them, however, drank a difh
VOL. I. L of
$2 A JOURNEY 1716.
of coffee, and an old man a dram of brandy.
They had feveral greyhounds, and a couple
of large hawks, which were trained to fly
at antelopes ; the hawks cannot hold indeed
fo ftrong a creature as an antelope, but they
fly about its head, and thereby retard its
velocity, till the greyhounds, or horfemen,
overtake it ; for the antelope far out-runs
any greyhound I ever faw. In this defert,
I have feen flocks of them confifting of two
or three hundred.
In manning hawks to fly at antelopes,
they fluff the {kins of thefe animals with
flraw, and feed the hawk between their
horns, placing food there for that purpofe ;
hence they are accuftomed to hover round
the head, which proves the deftruction of
thefe creatures. I was informed, that it
is in this manner the Tartars manage hawks
to fly at foxes and wolves. Thefe particu-
lars may poflibly appear immaterial ; how-
ever, as they may contribute to amufe the
reader, it was thought not improper to in-
fert them.
After
TO ISPAHAN. 83
After refting the i6th, we travelled next
day four agatz, to the foot of a very high
mountain, where we found a few poor cot-
tages, deferted by their inhabitants on our
approach. The water was in plenty and
good. The weather was very cold, and no
fire-wood could be got, except a little we
brought along with us. One of our people
ftraggling too near the rocks, was danger-
oufly wounded with a flone, thrown by
fome of thefe cottagers who had retired
thither. On thefe rocks I faw a creature
like a goat, called by the Germans Stein-
buck ; it is much bigger than the common
kind of thefe animals, and its horns are of
a prodigious fize.
The 1 8th, we advanced five agatz far-
ther; and the igth, feven agatz, to a large
village, called Katchoochana, where the
Chan of Mugan has a good houfe. The
weather being cold and frofty, we continued
here all the 2Oth.
The 2 1 ft, we travelled five agatz, to a
village under a great mountain, where was
a
84 A JOURNEY 1716.
, t
a water mill for grinding corn, the firfc
machine of that fort 1 faw in Perfia.
The 22cl, we came to a fmall town called
Aggar. The kalentar ordered the citizens
to arm and oppofe our entry ; and, not-
withftanding the remonftranccs of our con-
ductor, he perfifted unalterable in his pur-
pofe, affirming he had no order to admit
fuch a body of armed men. He did not
however refufe us provifions, wood and
water, for money. We were therefore o-
bliged to content ourfelves with thefe, and
lodge in our tents on an open field, in cole]
weather.
Next day we proceeded two or three a-
gatz, to a large populous village, where the
people, in imitation of thofe at Aggar, af-
femblcd in arms, and barricadoed ail their
entries, refufmg us admittance ; they beat
our quarter- mafter, a Perfian officer belong-
ing to ihe conductor, for off ei ing to force
his way into the place We therefore lodged
again in the open air. They frnt out fome
fire-wood, and whatever elfe they could
ipaie,
1716. TO ISPAHAN.
fpare. I muft: confefs I could fcarce blame
thefe people for their behaviour ; becaufe,
had we been admitted, the inhabitants muft
all have left their own houfes ; and where
could a parcel of poor women and children
have found flicker in fuch extremity of
cold.
The 24th, we continued our journey be-
tween two g;eat mountains, where the
north wind was very piercing. We pafled
an old ruinous caravanfery, and arrived in
the evening at an empty village, which the
natives had forfook the day before. AH
next day we halted, being Chrift mafs.
The 26th we marched about four agatz,
to another village. The inhabitants were
fo hcipitable as to afford us lodging, but
charged dear for every thing we needed,
efpecially wood, which was bought at the
rate of three-pence for feven pounds.
On the 2jih we travelled over exceeding
high mountains, from whence, I was told
by an Armenian merchant in our company,
might be feen, in a clear day, the top of
the
** A JOURNEY 1716.
the famous mount Ararat, called by the Per-
fians Aggry, by the Armenians Meflin ;
the fummit is constantly covered with fnow,
and often with a cloud : It is the higheft
of all that chain of mountains in Armenia,
on which we then ftood.
How far my information might be true,
I cannot determine ; but certain it is, that
when the Armenians fee vhis mountain,
they make a fign of the crofs, and fay their
prayers* as is their cuftom, when they ap-
proach any place which they efteem ficred.
In the evening we arrived at the city of
Tauris,Terris, orTebris, as it is pronounced
by fome. The ambaflador was met, about
half a mile from the place, by the kalentar,
and chief officers, who, after the common
falutations, conducted him to his lodgings.*
Our baggage was depofited in a large cara-
vanfery in the neighbourhood.
CHAP.
1716. TO ISPAHAN.
CHAP. V.
\
Occurrences during our ft ay at Tau*
ris : Our journey thence to Jfpa*
han.
TAURIS is a large and populous city,
the capital of the province of that
name, and the refidence of the chan. It
is (ituated in a fruitful plain, encompafled
by the high rocks of mount Tauris, about
ten days journey from Shamachy, and
twenty-five from Ifpahan ; I mean to a
caravan. It is fuppofed to be the ancient
metropolis of Media. It is ftill of confi-
derable extent ; but not near what it has
been. There are yet to be ieen many cu~
rious remains of ancient grandeur ; parti-
cularly an old temple, converted into a
mofque,
8$ A JOURNEY
mofque, now neglected and ruinous. The
roof is fupported by many {lately pillars of
porphyry, almoft entire, fome whereof are
of a greenifh colour, with other colours and
veins of gold interfperfed. The propor-
tions feemed to be regular, and the works
manfhip very fine and curious. In fhort,
I am unable to defcribe the fymmetry and
beauty of thefe pillars, and wonder how
they have efcaped the fury of fo many
barbarians. It is no lefs furprifing where
were got fuch mafly pieces of marble, fee-
ing nothing like them is now to be found
in this country. Thefe particulars demon-
ftrate the ancient grandeur and riches of
this place. It is, however, a deplorable
truth, that this country in general hath
undergone fo many revolutions fmce the
time of Alexander the Great, her firft con-
queror, that, a few places excepted, the
prefent names, and descriptions of cities
and provinces, bear almoft no refemblance
to thofe of antiquity, fo that one can fcarce
imagine them accounts of the fame places :
To
1716. TO ISPAHAN. 89
To fuch a degree hath time and barbarous
invaders changed the appearances of things.
Fire and fword have raged to deftroy mag-
nificent cities ; ftately temples and palaces
are demolifhed ; whole provinces depopu-
lated ; and fruitful fields converted into a
defert, by diverting the fprings, or turning
the rivers that watered them into other
channels. Such are the confequences of
lawlefs ambition on the fined productions
of nature and art. The laft is a circurn-
ftance to which few countries are fo much
expofed as Perfia ; for in the inland part
of it there is almoft no rain, which obliges
the inhabitants to water all their vegetables
from fprings and brooks. They often
convey even rivers feveral leagues, in chan-
nels under ground, for this purpofe. The
dew indeed is very plentiful, but would be
infufEcient of itfelf for the purpofes of ve-
getation.
The ftreets of Tauris are narrow and ir-
regular. The houfes are built with bricks
made of mud, mixed with chopped draw,
VOL. I. M and
90 A JOURNEY
and dried in the fun ; the governour's pa-
lace indeed, and a few more houfesj are
built of ftone, and make a good appear-
ance. The roofs are generally flat, and
covered with a terrace. The walls are
white-warned on the infide, and look very
white and clean. The floors of every
houfe are fpread with carpets, or mats, ac-
cording to the circumftances of the inha-
bitants. The people of diftincYion have
great halls of audience in their outer
courts, arched with fquare bricks, which
are plaiftered and painted with flowers :
This is done at a fmall expence, and makes
a very fine mow.
There are feveral well built mofques,
with (lately minorets, or pillars, which the
moulla afcends to call the people to pray-
ers ; alfo an high' building for the rnufic,
rhat plays evening and morning, as men-
tioned ac Shamachy. There are alfo fome
large caravanferies ; fo that no ftrange*.
can be at a lofs for lodging at a fmall ex-
pence. The city is quite open, having no
caftle,
1716. TO ISPAHAN. 91
caftle, or fortification to defend it. Indeed
one would imagine the defert mountains,
<
fcarcity of water, and other obftrudions,
would be a fufficient defence againft all in-
vafions : The fury of the Turks, however,
in their wars with Perfia, furmounted all
thefe obftacles.
Tauris is fupplied with water from a
brook, called Shankuy, which runs through
the city, and fome fprings in.the neighbour-
hood. The inhabitants are moftiy Perfi-
ans, though there are among them many
Armenians. They have a confiderable
commerce in raw-filk, and manufactories
of carpets, and filk and cotton (luffs. They
have great crops of wheat and barley, when
at the trouble and expence of watering the
fields : But their principal fupport is rice,
brought from the province of Guilan,
where it grows very plentifully ; for this
kind of grain, which of all other thrives
beft on wet land, agrees wonderfully with
that rich moift foil near the Cafpian Sea.
The
9 1 A JOURNEY 1716.
The Capuchin miflionaries have a con-
vent at this place for the ufe of the Arme-
nians of the Roman Catholic profeffion ;
which is fuperintended by two fathers of
that order.
About a league fyom the city, on the
road to Ifpahan, are feen the ruins of a
bridge, on the top of a hill, where, I be-
lieve, no water has run fince the deluge.
It is faid that it was built by a whimficai
prieft, in order to introduce himlelf to the
King, Shach Abbafs, who could not avoid
taking notice, when he pafled that way, of
fuch an extraordinary appearance.
About four or five leagues from Tauris,
in a plain calied Roomy ; there are feveral
fprings of water that petrify wood, and, I
have been informed, even, reptiles, iuch as
lizards. One thing is certain, that, after a
ftagnation of this water, for a certain time,
there is a fubftance like marble found at
the hot' om, which the Perfians cut into any
breadth or length at pleafure. 1 have fecrj
of it two or three inches thick. It is eafily
polifhed,
j 7 i 7 . TO ISPAHAN. 93
polifhed, and is diaphanous, but not tranf-
parent. After fawing it into flabs, they
fix them for windows in their bagnios and
private apartments. Perhaps, it is not im-
probable, the large pillars, formerly men-
tioned, might be hewn out of this kind of
marble.
During our flay at Tauris, little material
happened. The weather continued very
cold, which, together with want of horfes
and camels, detained us longer than we
expected. I could not but pity the poor
people of this place ; the cold was fo ex-
ceffive, and bread, and other neceffaries fo
dear, that, I was informed, many of them
perifhed in the ftreets.
January 2d, 1717, Monfieur Ricard, a
French Jefuit, arrived, in his way to Ifpa-
han, with fome letters from Rome to the
Sophy. He fent Monfieur Duffus, one of
his retinue, with his compliments to our
ambaflkdor.
The Chan being abfent, the Vizir, who
is his lieutenant, came the 6th, in great
Hate,
$4 AJOURNEY 1717.
ftate, to vifit the ambaflador ; who, on the
nth, returned the compliment, attended
with all his retinue. He was received in a
magnificent hall, fpread with fine carpets.
There was a feat placed for the ambaflador ;
but the reft of the company fat crofs-legged
on the carpets, in the Perfian manner.
The 2oth there was a great fall of fnow,
which very much foftened the cold piercing
northerly winds.
The 23d, having, with great difficulty,
procured horfes and camels, we left Tauris,
and travelled two agatz through deep
fnow, which incommoded us not .a little ;
particularly on account of the camels, who
Cannot bear deep roads.
The 24th and 2fth, the roads were im-
paflable. I faw here a male camel trample
one of his keepers under his feet : For, at
this feafon, when the females are rutting,
the males are very furious and ungovern-
able, and muft be managed with great cau-
tion.
The
1717, TO ISPAHAN. 95-
The 26th, we travelled two agatz, to a
fpacious well-built caravanfery, founded
by Shach Sephy, fufficient to contain fome
hundreds of men and horfes. Here we
halted fome time, and proceeded in the af-
ternoon five agatz farther. In this day's
journey you have the choice of two roads,
both leading to Ifpahan ; one through the
cities of Ardeville and Cafbin, and the o-
ther by Zengan and Sultany ; the laft
whereof we choofed, being fomewhat
fhorter.
Ardeville is reported to be a very fine
place ; and is famous for the monuments
of Shach Sephy the firft, and other Perfian
princes and heroes, efteemed for their vir-
tue and piety. A great many devout people
come from all parts of the country to wor-
fhip at thefe tombs, where a confiderable
charity is daily diftributed to the poor pil-
grims ; to fupport which, there is a fund
fettled by the King, with proper officers
appointed to fuperintend the management
of it, and prevent frauds. I wanted much
to
A JOURNEY 1717,
to vifit this place, but found it impradi-
cable.
The 27th, we advanced three agatz,
through deep fnow, to a caravanfery built
of bricks. We were at no lofs for water
while the fnow lay upon the ground. The
next day we reached a large village, called
Kara-China, inhabited by Perfians and Ar-
menians. About a mile from the place we
were met by an Armenian prieft, attended
by a company of country people, who came
to welcome us as fellow Chriftians, One
of them carried a painted crucifix, raifed
on a long pole ; others played on flutes and
hautboys, 'and other mufical inftruments,
to which one or two perfons kept time, by
beating two thin brafs plates againft each
other ; and many of them fung hymns
and pfalms. In this manner they accom-
panied us to our lodgings, where we were
better accommodated than we had been
hitherto. We received from thefe people,
in particular, very good wine and grapes,
which they preferve, through the winter
by
1717. TO ISPAHAN. 97
by hanging them in dry and open pla-
ces.
:
About this time many of our people had
fore eyes, and fwelled faces, caufed by the
ftrong reflexion of the fun-beams from the
fnow. The Perfians themfelves are liable
to the fame diforders. As a remedy, they
wear a fillet of net-work, made of black
horfe hair, over their eyes, which I found,
by experience, altogether effectual.
The 3 1 ft, we fet out early, and travelled
four agatz to Turkoma, a large village.
The fnow continued very deep. Here we
were obliged to wait for our camels, fome
of which did not arrive till next day.
February 2d, we travelled eight agatz
to a little town called Mianna, where is a
caravanfery for horfes only. Here we bu-
ried another of our people.
The 4th, after two hours march, we
pa(Ted a river, over which is a fine ftone-
bridge, (landing under an high mountain,
called Kaplanton. Leaving that place, we
faw, on the left hand, the ruins of an old
VOL. I. N fortifi-
& A JOURNEY
fortification. We repafled the river on
another ftone-bridge ; thence to a caravan-
fery-j called Tzamatura, and at night reach-
ed another, called Sartzam, being eight
agatz from Mianna. Here we halted till
our camels arrived ; the greateft part
whereof came not before next day. We
perceived the depth of the fnow to lefTen
daily, as we advanced to the fouth.
The 7th, we travelled five agatz to a
fmall town named Zengan, where we lod-
ged in a good caravanfery. The Sultan, or
chief magiftrate, waited on us, and gave us
a friendly and hofpitable reception. He
has under his jurifdidion both this place
and Sultany ; at, each he refides half the
year by turns.
Here we met a Ruffian merchant, who
had about fifteen or twenty camels loaden
with various kinds of merchandife, going
to Bucharia.
We halted two days, on account of the
deep fnow in this neighbourhood ; and the
loth, after travelling fix agatz, came to
Sultany,
J 7 i 7 . TO ISPAHAN. 99
Sultany. This place is at prefent fmall
and inconsiderable, though it appears to
have been a great and famous city in for-
mer times. There are Fill to be feen fe-
veral ftately mofques and minorets ; one
of thefe mofques is the tomb of a Perfian
prince, called Chudabendie, which has a
brafs gate of lattice work, feemingly of
great antiquity. In the fame mofque is
the tomb of Sultan Bajazat, fon to Chuda-
bendie.
On the 1 2th, we travelled four agatz to
a village, where we ftaid all night ; and
the 1 3th, three agatz to another, through
deep fnow, which prevented our proceed-
ing next day.
The 1 5th, we travelled five agatz, and
the 1 6th four, to a large village called
Guiga Zayn. At this place a Ruffian
youth applied to the ambaflador for free-
dom and protection. He had been carried
away by the Tartars, from fome of the
fouthern provinces of Ruffia, and was fold
fome years before in Perfia. He was for,-
ced
loo AJOURNEY 17171
cecl to turn Mahometan ; had almoft for-
got his mother tongue ; and was obliged
to explain himfelf by an interpreter. The
ambaflador afforded him the protection he
fought. His mafter claimed either his flave
or the money he had paid for him ; neither
of which demands could be granted.
The 1 8th, we arrived at Sexabbatt, a vil-
lage four agatz from the former, where
we quartered that night, and refted all the
next day.
The 2Oth, we advanced three agatz to
Arazant, a fmall village. This diftrict be-
ing much peftered with ftrong gangs of
highway-men, we marched with great cir-
cumlpection ; and in the night the baggage
was guarded, both by our own people and
the conductor's foldiers.
The 2ift, after a journey of three hours,
we came to an old caravanfery, called Id-
j-oop, where we refted ; then advanced four
agatz to another, called Kockera, fituated in
an extenfive plain. The fnow was now
altogether gone, and the water at this place
very
1717. TO ISPAHAN.
.very bad. In an upper room of this cara-
vanfery, I faw the names of many Euro-
peans cut on the wall, in different lan-
guages : among which was that of Olea-
rius, fecretary to the Holftein ambafladors,
who publifhed a very exacl: account of that
fruitlefs embafly.
The 2 id of February we fet out very
Carly, and in three hours reached Denggie,
a caravanfery, where we halted for refrefh-
ment ; and at night arrived at Saba, or Sa-
va, feven agatz from Kockera.
Saba appears, from many ruins, to have
been a place of great note. It ftands in a
fruitful and extenfive plain, which produ-
ces all forts of fruit natural to the climate,
particularly pomegranates, the largeft I have
feen. The trees were now in full bloom,
and had a very fine appearance. Some
years ago, this place was almoft ruined by
a deluge. It has been repairing ever lince,
but is ftill far from its former condition.
The 24th, our road lay through a defert
and barren plain, abounding with faltpetre.
We
A JOURNEY 1717,
We travelled fix agatz to Teffrabatt, a new
caravanfery ; and the 25th, five agatz, to
the town of Koom.
About two leagues from Koom we faw
a round hill to the left, called in Turkifh
Gedeen-Gedmaze, which fignifies, that,
whoever goes up never returns ; which,
the Perfians fay, was the fate of a page fent
up by Shach Abbafs, with 'a lighted torch
in his hand. However this be, it is cer-
tainly no eafy matter to afcend this place ;
becaufe the whole hill confifts of fand,
which is fhifted from place to place by the
wind, and muft foon tire whoever attempts
to climb it.
Koom is reckoned among the chief towns
in Perfia, and is the refidence of a chan. It
is fituated in a fertile plain, well watered
by a pretty large river, over which is a
fine ftone-bridge. In the town is a fpa-
cious caravanfery, and feveral well built
mofques and minorets. One of thefe
mofques is highly efteemed by, the Perfians,
becaufe of the fepulchre of Shach Sephy
and
ISPAHAN.
and his fon Shach Abbafs the Second, and
that of Sidy Fathima, grand-daughter to
their prophet Mahomet. Thefe tombs are
much frequented by pilgrims, from all parts
of Perfia, who refort hither once a year, to
pay their devotions ; and are fupported by
a fund appropriated to that purpofe.
Before you reach the mofque, you pafs
through three neat courts ; and, in the
middle of the fourth, where the mofque
(lands, there is a large bafon of clear water.
Above the gate are engraven, in gilt letters,
the names of the deceafed princes, with
fome verfes in their praife. The monu-
ment of Sidy Fathima (lands in the front
of the building, encompafled with a grate
work of pure filver, very valuable. To
each of the princes are confecrated magni-
ficent apartments, where the priefts read
the Koran night and day.
This is alfo a place of refuge for debt-
ors, and unfortunate people, who are main-
tained at the public expence. Adjoining
to the mofque is a large hall, where alms
are
Io 4 A JOURNET 1717;
are daily diftributed to the poor. Few Chrif-
tians are admitted into this facred place.
The ambaflador, however, with a few of
the retinue, obtained this favour. Koom is
famous for manufacturing the beft blades,
in all Perfia, for fabres and poinards.
The 27th, we travelled from Koom, five
agatz to Kaflirn-abbat, a jconfiderable vil-
lage, where we lodged. The weather now
began to be fo hot, that we could travel
only in the morning and evening.
On the 28th, after travelling fix agatz,
we came to Sinnbzyn, another village.
Here our huntfman caught a porcupine,
and brought it home alive.
March ift, we arrived at a place called
Kafhan, fix agatz from the former. At
fome diftance, we were met by the doroga,
or judge, attended by about fifty horfemen.
He came to falute the ambaflador, and con-
ducted him to his lodgings. The houfe be-
longed to the Shach, and was pleafantly
fituated in the middle of a fine garden,
planted with various kinds of fruit trees.
Kafhan
1717. TO ISPAHAN, 105
Kaftan is a large and populous city. It
is fituated in a fertile plain, which fecures
plenty of all neceflaries, and contains feve-
ral well built mofques and caravanferies.
The market-place is well furnifhed with
merchandife of different kinds. The com-
mon manufactures of Perfia are found
here, viz. filk and cotton (luffs, carpets, be-
fides fome other articles, which make this
a place of confiderable trade.
This city is much peftered with fcor-
pions, efpecially the black kind, reckoned
the moft venemous. Their fting proves
mortal in a few days, nay, even hours, if
proper remedies be not applied. The cure
ufed by the Perfians is, to anoint the wound
with the oil of thefe animals, extracted by
frying. Of this oil they have generally
a quantity in referve. If it is wanting,
they bruife any fcorpion, and apply it to
the part affected. Either of thefe reme-
dies, taken in due time, feldom fail of fuc-
cefs. The Perfians have fuch a dread of
thefe creatures, that, when provoked by a-
VOL. 1. O ny
106 A JOURNEY 1717.
ny perfon, they wifh a Kafhan fcorpion
may fling him. They are the more ter-
rible, as few houfes are free from them ;
for moft of the floors being of earth,
and covered with carpets or mats, be-
low thefe t'he fcorpions find or make holes
for themfelves, where they lurk unfeen.
They do not, indeed, often hurt, unlefs
touched fuddenly. It is advifeable for all
travellers to examine diligently the place
where they are to deep, before they go
. to bed. As the fcorpion is well known,
it will be unneceflary to fay any more of
it.
The 5th, we reached Buzabbatt, five a-
gatz from Kafhan. The weather was very
hot. At this place I faw a creature called
the ftellio, or tarantula, and by the Perfians
inkureck. It is in fhape and fize fomewhat
like a large fpider, but overgrown with
hair. I was informed that it neither flings
nor bites, but drops its venom upon the
{kin, which is of fuch a nature that it im-
mediately penetrates into the body, and
caufes
1717. ,* 5 The
remedy, as in the former cafe, is the appli-
cation of the fame animal, when bruifed,to
the part, by which the poifon is extracted.
They alfo make the patient drink abun-
dance of fweet milk, after which he 'is put
in a kind of tray, fufpended by ropes fixed
in the four corners ; it is turned round till
the ropes are twifted hard together ; an3,
when let go at once, the untwining caufes
the bafket to run round, with a quick mo-
tion, which forces the patient to vomit.
They alfo make them dance to mufical
inftruments, which the fick perfon fome-
times does, of his own accord, till he drops
down upon the fpot. One of thefe terrible
creatures happened to fall out of the del-
ing upon my hand, as I was going one
night to bed ; I fhook it off inftantaneouf-
ly, without receiving the leaft harm. E-
very thing near was moved, and fearched
for it, Iput to no purpofe, there being many
holes
joS A JOURNEY 1717.
holes in the floor. It may eafily be ima-
gined that apprehenfion would prevent my
fleeping much that night*
The 6th, we travelled five or fix agatz
to Kaltabbatt ; and the next day five,
to Nattanee, a finall town fituated under
fome high mountains. Here the Shach
has a pretty little palace, with gardens,
fountains of fine water, and cafcades.
We lodged in the palace. The jackals
were fo bold, that they howled un-
der the windows all the night long, and
carried off fome of our poultry. On the
top of a mountain, near this place, ftands
a high tower, built by Shach Abbafs, which
is feen at a great diftance.
The 8th, we left Nattanee, and in three
hours pafled a fine houfe, with gardens,
built by Shach Abbafs, and fituated by it-
felf in a pleafant plain. About three hours
after, xve came to Tutrin, an old caravan-
fery, where we lodged. The heat increafed
daily as we advanced to the fouth. The
qth, we reached Ruck, eight agatz diflant
from
,717. TO ISPAHAN. jog
from Tutrin, and four hours journey from
the city of Ifpahan.
The loth, being the vernal equinox,
when the new year commences among the
Perfians, we halted all day. In the even-
ing, thirty fine horfes, with rich furniture,
were fent from the Shach's ftables to the
ambaflador. Some of the bridles were or-
namented with gold, others with filver.
Two lions were brought by a Perfian to be
fhown to the ambaflador. They were led
into a court-yard, and let loofe upon a
goat ; but, inftead of the goat, they ran at
ibme of our people, who narrowly efcaped,
by getting into a houfe, and faulting the
doors. It feems the fight of fo many ftran-
gers had frightened them ; for the keeper
himfelf with difficulty chained them, and
one of them even bit his hand.
The nth, we advanced two agatz, to
Davilett-abbatt, a village.
. On the morning of the I3th, the May-
mander Bafha, or chief conductor, arrived
with
tio A JOURNEY 1717.
with many attendants. In the evening we
mounted, and, being accompanied with a>
numerous train of courtiers, and other peo-
ple, we travelled two agatz to the fuburbs
of the city, where we lodged in a palace
called Tuchtzy, belonging to the Shach.
The I4th, in the morning, came a num-
ber of horfes fufficient for the ambaflador
and all his train ; this being the day ap-
pointed for our public entry.
About noon, the Maymander Bafha re-
turned, to conduct the ambaflador to his
lodgings in the city. He was Attended by
many perfons of diftin&ion.
After noon, we mounted, and entered
the city. We pafled through many ftreets
crowded with fpectators, as were alfo the
tops of the houfes. It was faid that the
Sophy. himfelf was at a window, incognito,
with fome of his ladies. Curiofity had cau-
fed fuch a crowd, that, had not the way
been cleared by the Perfian guards, it
would have been impoflible for us to pafs
along;
1717. .TO ISPAHAN. in
along. At laft, we reached the end of our
journey ; a noble palace, in the middle of
the city, with a garden, three courts, and
apartments fufficient for the ambaflador and
all his retinue.
The Order of the Entry.
An officer.
Three dragroons.
A kettle-drum.
Four trumpets.
Thirty dragoons, three a-breaft, with drawn
Swords.
Six fpare horfes, with fumptuous trappings.
The fteward.
Twelve footmen.
Two pages.
Three footmen.
Two interpreters.
Two hey-dukes in Hungarian habits.
The
H2 A JOURNEY 1717.
The ambaflador, with the maymander,
Baftia, and interpreter.
The prieft and one gentleman.
Myfelf and one gentleman.
Two clerks.
Faulconers, huntfmen, &c.
CHAP.
I I
4717. TO ISPAHAN. 113
CHAP. VI.
Occurrences during our Stay at If*
pahan.
TH E i5th, the agents of the Englifli
and Dutch factories, viz. Mr Coppin
the Englifh agent, fent Meflieurs Batfon
and Reynardfon, the Dutch agent likewife
fent two gentlemen of their company, to
falute the ambaflador.
The i6th, the Maymander Baftia invited
the ambaflador to an audience of the Etma-
dowlett, or prime minifter, which he would
not comply with, till he had an audience
of thaShach, and delivered his credentials,
though it is ufual firft to take an audience
VOL. I. P of
H4 A JOUR.NEY 1717.
of that minifter. This day I vifited the
Englifh factory, where I met with a friend-
ly reception.
On the 27th was a great fall of rain,
fuch as had not been at Ifpahan for feven
years : It was the caufe of great joy in this
iiiltry dry climate, though to me it feemed
nothing extraordinary.
April i ft, 1 went to Julffa to fee a friend,
accompanied by Mr Batfon. It is a large
place in the fuburbs, inhabited by Arme-
nians, who have the free exercife of the
Chriftian religion. On the loth, I dined
at the Dutch houfe, the weather very hot.
May 4th, the ceremonial part of the am-
bafiador's introduction to the Shach being
previoufly agreed on, he was this day to
have his firft audience. In the morning
horfes were fent from the King's ftables,
all of them magnificently equipped, with
grooms to attend them ; many jof the fad-
dies and bridles were garniflied with gold
and filver.
We
1717- TO ISPAHAN. 115
"VVe marched in the fame order as at our
entry above mentioned, o'nly the dragoons
had not their fwordsj drawn. After paffing
through feveral ftreets, we came to the
great market place, called Bazar, and then
to a gate called Alla-capy, i. e. GodVgate,
where we difmounted. Acrofs this gate is
hung a chain, and none are permitted to
enter on horleback except the Shach him-
felf. We walked through >the guards,
drawn up on each fide, to an inner court,
and thence to an arched gate, furrounded
with benches, and fpread with carpets.
Here the ambaflador was defired to fit
down till the Shach was ready to receive
him. We waited at leaft two hours, du^
ring which time, all the miniflers of ftate,
and officers of the houfehold, pafTed us in
great ftate ; after them came a large ele-
phant, mounted by his keeper, and adorned
with gold and filver fluff ; then two large
lions, led by their keepers with chains of
mafly gold.
When
ii o
bottle, that contained about two quarts,
with a fmall cup of the fame metal.
On the ijth, the ambaflador had a fe-
cond audience of the Etmadowlett, relating
to the fubjedt of the embafly.
Three days after, the Hackim Bafha, or
chief phyfician, fent me an invitation to
vifit him. He received me in a very cour-
teous obliging manner. ; and detained me
above two hours, talking on different fub-
1717. TO ISPAHAN. 729
jefts. He told me, that the phyficians irf
Perfia made vegetables, and their virtues,
their chief ftudy ; they dealt but little iqt
minerals and chemical preparations. Then
he afked me whether the European phyfi-
cians admitted opium in their prefcriptions ?
I told him they did with great fuccefs. To
which he replied, that the qualities of that
drug were known to very few. He in-
quired whence tea came ? how it fhould
be made ? and what were its virtues ? All
which I anfwered to his fatisfadtion. Hence
it is evident that the Perfians have no cor-
refpondence nor commerce with the Chi-
xufe. The phyfician is an elderly man, of
a grave deportment, and might pafs for a
doctor any where. On taking my leave,
he told me he was forry he could not con-
verfe with me but by means of an inter-
preter, which was tedious and difagree-
able.
The fame day the Dutch commiffary,
Myn-heer Vonkettler, made his public en-
try at Ifpahan, as envoy from the gover-
VOL. I. R nouf
AJOURNEY 1717.
nour of Batavia to the Shach of Perfia. He
was preceded by fix elephants, fent as a
prefent to the King by the governour. He
had a numerous retinue, and was attended
by feveral gentlemen, and made as grand
an appearance as if he had been a minifter
from any court of Europe. He took up
his lodgings at the Dutch fadtory. Mr
Kettler told me, that he was born in Cour-
land ; that, in his youth, he inlifted as a
foldier in the fervice of the Dutch Eaft-In-
dia company ; by his uncommon abilities
he had raifed himfelf from that low fitua-
tion to the honourable place he now
held.
The following day Mr Kettler fent two
of his retinue to compliment our ambafla-
dor : And, both our gentlemen being in*
difpofed, I was fent next day to return the
compliment.
The 28th, I dined at the Dutch houfe,
where we had a grand entertainment.
June 2d, the ambaflador intended to go
a hunting, and to take a view of the coun-
try
1717. TO ISPAHAN. 131
try about Ifpahan. But an officer came
from court, defiring him to delay it till an-
other opportunity ; for the Shach had
pitched on that day to vifit a country-
houfe, in company with his ladies ; on
which occafions it is death for any one to
be feen near the place where the court paf-
fes. To prevent accidental tranfgreflions
in this refpect, a cryer is previoufly def-
patched to warn the inhabitants, who pro-
claims through the ftreets, and along the
road, that nobody, under pain of death,
{hall appear either in the way, or from any
houfe near it, by which his majefty and
the ladies are to march. The Shach rides
on horfeback, attended only by eunuchs.
The ladies are mounted aftride, fome on
horfes, others on mules and afles. They
are all veiled with white muflin, fo that
nothing can be feen of them but the eyes
and nofe.
The Perfians tell a pleafant ftory of
Shach Abbafs's behaviour on an occafion
of this nature. The Shach at a certain
time
132 AJOURNEY 1717.
time was riding along, attended by his con-
cubines, when he happened to meet a poor
country-fellow upon the road, He was
immediately brought before the King, and,
expecting inftant death, fell on his knees,
molt fubnvflivdy begging pardon for fo
heinous an offence, and pleaded ignorance
in his excufe, having neither feen nor heard
of any cryer. The prince was pleafed with
the fimplicity and innocence of the pea-
fant, ordered him to take courage, and all
the ladies to unveil ; then defired him to
N pick out any of his concubines he liked
beft, and he ftiould have her for a wife.
This treatment difpelled his fear ; he pitch-
ed on one that pleafed him moft. The
Shach approved fo much of his tafte that he
carried him to court, where he foon became
a great favourite.
The Qth, I dmed at the Englim factory,
\vhere Mr Coppin, and the other gentle-
men belonging to the company, received
me in the moft friendly manner. The day
was very hot, and in the evening we fup-
ped
! 7 i 7 . TO ISPAHAN. 133
ped near a fountain in the garden. On a
fudden we felt a guft of wind, as hot as if
it had come from the mouth of an oven.
It was foon over without any bad effect.
But I was informed that thefe hot winds
are very dangerous, in travelling over the
deferts, and often kill people immediately.
The only refource, on perceiving them co-
ming, is to fall down flat, with the face to
the ground, and continue in that pofture
till they are gone.
%
On the 1 2th, the ambaflador had a third
audience of the Shach at Farrabbatt, a coun-
try- houfe near the city. It is an extremely
pleafant place, adorned with gardens, foun-
tains, and cafcades, furrounded with parks
for all kinds of game. While we were at
fupper on the terrace, we had a fqual of
wind, which almoft carried away every
thing, and actually fwept off the thin broad
cakes, which the Perfians ufe inftead of
napkins.
The 1 6th, Monfieur Ricard, whom I
mentioned at Tauris, and twelve mifliona-
ries
134 A JOURNEY , 7 , 7 .
ries of different orders, were invited to dine
with the atnbaflador. Several of thefe
gentlemen had been long in India and E-
thiopia, which rendered their converfation
very entertaining.
The 2 1 ft, the ambafTador was invited to
dinner by the devettar, or keeper of the
great feal and ftandifh. Here, as in all o-
ther countries, this is an office of great
truft. We were entertained with more
magnificence than by the prime minifter,
or even at court. Soon after we entered,
there were ferved up a great variety of
fweet-meats, and all kinds of fruit that the
climate afforded. Coffee and flierbet were
carried about by turns. We were placed
crofs-legged on the carpets, except the am-
baffador, who had a feat. During this part
of the feaft we were entertained with vo-
cal and inftrumental mufic, dancing boys,
tumblers, puppets, andjuglers: All the
performers executed their parts with great
dexterity. Two of them counterfeit-
ing a .quarrel, one beat off the other's
turban
I 7 i 7 . TO ISPAHAN.
turban with his foot, out of which dropped
about fifteen or twenty large ferpents, which
run or crawled about the room. One of
them came towards me, with great fpeed,
which foon obliged me to quit my place.
On feeing us alarmed, they told us the crea-
tures were altogether inofFenfitre, as their
teeth had been all drawn out. The fellow
went about the room and gathered them a-
gain into his turban, like fo many eels.
The victuals were now ferved in a neat
and elegant manner. Every thing was
well drefled in the Pcrfian famion. Our
hoft was very cheerful, and contributed e-
very thing in his power to pleafe his guefts.
He excufed himfelf handfomely enough for
not having wine, as it was not then ufed
at court.
On the 23d, the Maymander Bafha
brought a meflage from the Shach to the
ambaflador, intimating, that the bufmefs of
his embafly being now finimed, he might
choofe his own time to depart. This was
not very agreeable news to the ambarTador,
who
136 AJOURNEY 1717.
who alledged, that, before he could pro-
cure (hipping, to tranfport him to Aftra-
chan, the feafon would be far advanced,
and oblige him to winter in fome part of
Perfia.
July i ft, the Shach fent the ambaflador,
and the principal parts of his retinue, what
the Perfia^s call the kalatt. It confifts of
a tunic, a long rob of gold and filver fluff,
a fafh and 'urban, and fome pieces of Per-
fian filk, whereof about ten or a dozen fell
to my fh^re. The whole value was not
considerable j \. at the Shach beftows this
mark of favour to all foreign minifters who
come on friendly errands. On this occa-
fion he fent the ambaflador, in particular, a
p**efenr of two fine horfes from his own
ftables. .
1 e 3d, the ambaflador had his laft au-
dience of the 3hach, at a palace in the ci-
ty ; when he received an anfwer to the
Czar's letter, and immediately took leave
ftanding, wuaout further ceremony.
The
1717- TO ISPAHAN. 137
The 8th, the Shach fent the ambafTador
another prefent, confiding of an elephant,
two lions, two leopards, fix monkeys of
different kinds, three parrots, two white and
one green, three fine horfes, and an Indian
bird, called myana ; it is in colour, lhape,
and fize, like a black-bird, and whittled a
very fine note.
Auguft the 3d, we began to prepare for
our journey homeward, which took up
much time. The i8th, we removed from,
our lodgings in the city to a houfe belong-
ing to the Shach, in the northern fuburbs,
called Tauchtzy.
The 26th, I took leave of my friend Mr
Coppin, who fet out this day on his jour-
ney to England,, by way of Aleppo. The
Englifh factory at Ifpahan are very well
fituated in the middle of the city, have a
fpacious 'garden adjoining, and are feparated
from the reft of the town by a wall. Moft
of the great houfes in the city are furroun-
ded in the fame manner, which renders' it
very extenfive.
VOL. I. S Ifpahan
138 A JOURNEY 1717*
Ifpahan is fituated nearly in thirty-two
degrees north latitude, on a fruitful plain,
in the province of Hierack, anciently the
kingdom of the Parthians- " About three
or four Englifh miles diftant from the
city, to the fouth, runs an high ridge of
mountains from eaft to weft. Shach Ab-
bafs the Great transferred the feat of the
Perfian government from Cafbin to this
place.
Ifpahan is plentifully fupplied with wa-
ter from the river Schenderoo, which runs
between the city and the fuburbs, keeping
its courfe to the north. It rifes near the
city, and is fordable almoft every where,
unlefs during great rains, which feldom
happen. After paffing this place, its courfe
is but fhort, for it foon lofes itfelf.in dry
parched plains. Over the Schenderoo there
are three ftately ftone-bridges in fight of
one another; but the one in the middle,
betwixt the city and that part of the fub-
urbs called Julpha, which terminates the
fpacious ftreet Tzar-bach, far exceeds any
ftrudure
1717- TO ISPAHAN. 139
ftru&ure of that kind I ever faw. It is
broad enough for two carriages and a horfe-
man to pafs a-breaft, and has galleries on
each fide, which are covered, for the con-
venience of people on foot ; and watchmen
are ftationed at each end, to prevent difor-
ders. There are few houfes in the town
which have .not their chaufes, i. e. cifterns
of water, conveyed in pipes from the ri-
ver : A moft falutary and refrefhing cir-
cumftance, in fuch a dry and fultry cli-
mate.
The city is populous, jrfid,,as 1 already
obferved, very extenfive. As moft of the
inhabitants have their houfes apart, fur-
rounded with gardens, planted with fruit
and other trees, at a diftance it appears like
a city in a for eft, and affords a very agree-
able profpeft.
The ftreets are generally very narrow
and irregular, except that leading to the
great bridge, already mentioned. This
noble ftreet is very broad and ftraight, and
near an Engliih mile in length. On each
fide
A JOURNEY r 7 i 7 ;
fide are the King's palaces, courts of juftice,
and the academies for the education of
youth, with two rows of tall chinar trees,
which afford a fine fhade. Thefe trees
have a fmooth whitifh bark, and a broad
leaf, like the plane-tree. At certain diftan-
ces, there are fountains of water that .play
continually, round which are fpread car-
pets ; and thither the Periians refort to
drink coffee, fmoke tobacco, and hear
news ; which, I muft confefs, is very a-
greeable in hot weather.
About half a mile below the city is a fine
plain upon the banks of the river, where
the Perfians, every evening, exercife their
horfes in riding, and accuftom them to the
difcharge of fire-arms. They alfo fhoot at
butts with bows and arrows, and throw
blunted darts at one another ; at which
they appear very dextrous.
The city is almoft quite defencelefs, ha-
ving only a flight wall round it, built of
mud dried by the fun, which is broken down
in many places ; fo that, if the army is de-
feated
t 7 i 7 . TO ISP-AHAtf.
feated in the field, Ifpahan cannot defend
itfelf one day ; for even all the artillery I
faw, confided of about twenty brafs can-
non, which ftood in the grand court before
the palace-gate, and were more for parade
than real ufe.
' The houfes here, as in other places of
Perfia, are generally built with bricks har-
dened by the fun. The roofs are flat, and
covered with a terrace. They make but
a mean appearance from the ftreet, though
within they are neat and clean, and very
convenient for the Perfian manner of life.
The Shach's palaces, the public edifices, and
the houfes of all perfons of diftinction, are
built with ftone.
As the ftreets are not paved, when it is
windy, the city is fometimes involved in
fuch a cloud of duft, that the fun is fcarcely
vifible. This obliges the inhabitants to
water the ftreets at leaft every evening.
Thefe gufts of wind are very difagreeable ;
but they happen feldom, and are of fhort
.duration.
At
j 4 2 A JOURNEY i 7 i 7 ;
i
At Ifpahan are many manufactories of
filk and cotton, and a great many filk
worms in the neighbourhood. As the con-
fumption of filk is very confiderable at this
place, little of it is exported. The making
carpets, however, employs the greateft
number of .hands ; for which the demand
is great, as they are preferable in quality,
defign, and colour, to any made elfewhere.
The fields about the city are very fer-
tile, and produce plentiful crops of excel-
lent wheat and barley ; but then they muft
all be watered, on account of the drynefs
of the foil, which is a work of labour and
expence. Befides thefe, I faw no other
.
gram.
The Perfians tread out their corn with
oxen or afles. For this purpofe, they make
a circle, about twenty or thirty feet in dia-
meter, on the circumference whereof the
{heaves are laid. There is a light fledge or
hurdle drawn by the cattle, in which the
driver fits, and directs them round and
round, as often as is neceflary ; and new
{heaves
17I 7. T.O ISPAHAN. 143
{heaves are always added when the former
ones are trodden fufficiently.< This opera-
tion alfo foftens the ftraw, and renders it
very good provender. There is no hay in
Perfia ; and the beft horfes are kpt in a
condition for any fervice by this food, and
a fmali quantity of dried barley twice a
day.
They have flocks of large fheep, whereof
the mutton is very good, but the^wool
coarfe. In the province of Karamenia, in-
deed, they have exceeding fine wool, fome
of which I -have feen little inferior to filk.
Their horned cattle are buffalos, which af-
ford them milk, and are ufed in plowing
the ground, and drawing carriages. They
have alfo the common kind of cattle of dif-
ferent fizes. Tfye better fort of people eat
chiefly mutton and fowls, but very little
beef.
Befides the cattle I have mentioned, there
is another kind, having a high riling upon
the (houlder, with clean limbs, which are
very handfome.
As
344 A JOURNEY
As I have formerly obferved, that the
Perfians make life of ice to cool their wa-
ter in fummer, it may be afked, where are
got fuch quantities, in fo hot a climate, as
are daily fold in the ftreets for that pur-
pofe ? I was informed, that there were
people who made it their bufmefs to watch
the frofty nights, in the winter feafon ; on
which occafions they went to the moun-
tains near the city, and threw water on
certain places, which being frozen, they
continued to repeat the operation till the
ice was of convenient thicknefs; then they
cut it in pieces, and carry it into caves, hewn
in the rocks, where it is preferved during
the fummer. What they cannot carry off
before the fun rifes is covered, to defend it
from his heat.
While I remained at Ifpahan, I vifited
the Shach's aviary. It contains a great va-
riety of all kinds of birds, many of which
had come from India, and other foreign
parts. Among the reft were a couple of
turkeys, which it feems are rare birds in
Perfia.
1717- TO ISPAHAN. ,145
Perfia. The place is very neat and ele-
gant. The aviary is about fifteen feet
high, and covered with a net-work of
brafs-wire, to prevent the birds flying a-
way.
Provifions of all kinds are very dear at
Ifpahan, which is fufficiently apparent from
the number of poor that go about the
ftreets. Nothing, however, is fo extrava-
gantly high as fire- wood.
The Roman catholics have three con-
vents in the city, viz. thofe of the Carme-
lites, Capuchins, and Auguftins. The Je-
fuits and Dominicans have their feparate
convents in the fuburbs of Julpha, which
is inhabited by Armenians, who are al-
lowed the free exercife of their religion.
There is a confiderable number of Jews
in the city, who are either merchants or
mechanics.
In the neighbourhood of the city is a
tribe of people, called by the Perfians
Giaur, who worfhip fire, being the pofte-
rity of the ancient inhabitants of this coun-
VOL. I. T try,
146 A JOURNEY 1717.
try, who paid divine honours to that ele-
ment. They are a poor indolent race, and
live in nafty huts, or in tents. They fpeak
a different language from the Peifians ;
have black hair, and are of a fwarthy cotn-
plection. They have fome fheep and cattle ;
but many of thesn go about the ftreets beg-
About three or four miles to the fouthr
ward of the city, are to be feen the ruins of
a tower on the top of a mountain, where it
is faid Darius fat when Alexander the Great
fought the fecond battle with the Perfians.
I was alfo told, that, about two days jour-
ney from Ifpahan, arc diftinguifhable the
remains of the tomb of Queen Efther, a
lady celebrated in holy writ for many vir-
. Thefe, and many other places, 1 in-
tended to have examined on the ipot, but
was unluckily prevented, for want of
time.
While we lay at Tauchfzy, waiting for
hq:"fes and camels, two of our fervaius
were ftung with fcorpions ; but were foon
cured,
iyiy. TO ISPAHAN. 147
cured, by timely application of the oil of
fcorpions, prepared after the Perfian man-
ner, without any other remedy. The jack-
als made a difmal howling under our win-
dows every night.
I have now finimed my obfervations on
whatever feemed moft remarkable in and
about the city of Ifpahan. I mall only add,
that, among the many lofty and pompous
titles which this mighty monarch aflumes,
there are fome very extraordinary ; of
which 1 fhall mention one, ' That the
* greateft kings of the earth may think it
* an honour to drink out of his horfes
* footfteps.' Several more inftances might
be given, in the Oriental ftile, fully as ex-
travagant.
The Shach's Palaces.
1. Tzel Sootun, or that of forty pillars;
2. Tevela Telear, near the ftables.
S.Hafta-
I 4 8 A JOURNEY 1717,
3. Hafta*Behafi, chambers of paradife.
4. Othiat Tallard, near the Haram.
5. Guldefta, houfe of eunuchs.
6. Tauchtzy, at the north entry.
7. Farrabbatt, fouth-eaft from the city.
Perfia is at prefent divided into fixteen
provinces, many of them of great extent.
I fliall mention their prefent names, and,
under them, thpfe they feem to have borne
among the ancients*
1. Turkomania,
Great Armenia.
2. Diatbeck.
Mefopatamia.
3. Kurdiftan,
Part of Aflyria.
4. Hierack Arabee,
Chaldea, or Babylon.
5. Hierack Aggemy,
Region of the Parthians.
6. Shirvan,
I7 i 7 . TO ISPAHAN. 149
6. Shirvan,
Towards the north-weft coaft of the
Cafpian Sea.
7. Guilan and Mefanderan,
Hyrcania.
8. Aftrabatt,
Margiana.
9. Ufbeck,
Badria.
10. Koraflan,
Aria.
ii. Sableftan,
Parapomifia.
12. Sigiftan,
Drangiana.
13., Arachofia.
14. Machran.
15. Karamenia,
Reaching to the gulph of Ormus. '
1 6. Pharfiftan,
Old Perfia, whereof Perfepolis was
the capital city.
A JOURNEY
I have added the ancient names accor-
ding to the beft information I could pro-
cure ; for, under the various revolutions
of this country, the records have been al-
xnoft wholly either loft or deftroyed : So
that the Perfians themfelves know very
little of the ancient hiftory of their coun-
try.
1717- T'O ISPAHAN. 151
From Ifpahan to Shamachy ; oc-
currences during ourjlay there.
SEPTEMBER ift, having procured
horfes and camels, and every thing
neceflary, and having alfo got a conductor
from the Shach, we this day left Ifpahan
in order to return to Ruffia. We travelled
fhort ftages along the fame road by which
we came to Ifpahan. Little material hap-
pened for a confiderable time, and I fhall
not repeat what I formerly obferved ; I
fhall only take notice, that many of the
places through which we pafled were much
infefled by ftrong gangs of highway-men.
We
15* A JOURNEY 1717.
We were therefore obliged to travel very
cautioufly, and to keep our people toge-
ther near the baggage, but particularly to
procure a fafe caravanfery for our lodgings.
The weather continuing very hot, was the
reafon of our making eafy marches ; and
thefe chiefly in the mornings and evenings,
and fometimes in the night, when it could
be done with fafety.
We travelled in this manner till the 26th
of September, when we arrived at a village
called Arrazant, where we lodged. Next
iday, inftead of puriuing the fame route by
Tauris, we turned to the right, and took
the road leading to Cafbin and Guilan.
The syth, we proceeded five agatz to
Membereck ; and the 2%th four, to the
city of Oafbin. This place is fituated in a
fpacibus plain, having a ridge of high
mountains to the north. I mentioned for-
merly, that Cafbin was once the feat of
government, and the refldence of the Per-
fian monarchs. There are ftill to be feen
the ruins of many (lately mofques, palaces,
and
1717- TO ISPAHAN. 153
and other public edifices. The city appears
to have been, in former times, very large
and flouriming, but is now much contract-
ed and decayed.
The plague raged here all the preceding
fummer, which had almoft depopulated the
place : And, although the fury of that
contagious diftemper was much abated,
people continued to die daily, which made
us refolved to remain no longer than was
abfolutely neceffary,. in order to prepare
things for our journey to Guilan. This
could not be foon accomplifhed at a time
of fuch public calamity.
In the mean time, many of our people
were feized with peftilential fevers, who
all recovered but one. He died fuddenly,
with the ufual fymptoms of the plague. I
and feveral of our people were likewife ta-
ken with fevers, occafioned by our being
lodged in houfes where the Perfians had
lately died. Thefe circumftances made
the ambaflador refolve to leave the place
at all events. During the time therefore
VOL. I. U which
S54 A JOURNEY 1717.
which we were obliged to wait for horfes
and camels, we removed out of town about
a mile, to a garden belonging to the Shach,
provided for us by the commandant of the
city and province. Here we fet up our
tents ; and in this fituation, by the help of
free air and good water, our people reco-
vered furprifingly ; fo that, in a {hort time,
moft of them were able to ride, another
gentleman only and myfelf were carried in
litters between two mules.
The 1 2th of October we fet out again,
purfuing our journey northward. After
travelling about two leagues through a
plain, we afcendedan high and fteep moun-
tain, and, proceeding onward about a
league, came to a fmall village where we
lodged. All the inhabitants had forfakea
their houfes. Whatever elfe was wanting,
we had here the comfort of pure air,
which had fuch an effect on me that next
day I was able to mount on horfeback^
though, at fetting out, I was fcarcely in
condition
1717. TO ISPAHAN.
condition to bear the eafy motion of the lit-
ter.
We continued our journey, afcending
and defcending many fteep rocks and
mountains for four days, when we arrived
at Menzyly, a little town fituated in a
charming valley ; where grow abundance
of citrons, oranges, olives, befide grapes and
other fruits. Thefe I own were tempting
objects ; but fad experience taught many
of us to value them no more than floes or
bramble berries. Menzyly is governed by
a kalentar or judge ; it is a pretty romantic
place, encompafled by high mountains on
all fides, which decline to the north, and
are covered with grafs. This is a rare fight
in Perfia, and is caufed by the great au-
tumnal rains ; for along the fouth coaft of
the Gafpian Sea, it rains at this feafon, al~
moft without intermiffion, for the fpace of
fix weeks or two months. In this and the
neighbouring villages are bred a great
number of filk-worms, which produce the
beft and greateft quantities of raw filk
156 AJOURNEY 1717.
made in the province of Guilan ; from
whence it is exported by the Armenian
merchants, partly through Ruflia to Hol-
land, and partly by land to Aleppo, for the
Levant trade.
Having ftaid two days at Menzyly, we
fet out again in heavy rains, through deep
roads, which greatly incommoded our ca-
mels ; for they often flipped, and fome-
times fell down under their burthens :
However, in five days we reached Remd,
the capital of the province of Guilan.
Remd ftands in a plain, furrounded with
great woods on every fide, about a day's
journey from the neareft fhore of the Caf-
pian Sea, where is a very good harbour for
fhips of fmall burthen.
The houfes are thinly fcattered, refem-
bling rather a large village than a town.
As the ground at this place is very flat, the
inhabitants are obliged to chufe the dryeft
places to build on. In the market place, I
faw about eight pieces of cannon, mounted
on forry carriages j among which was a
neat
1717. TO ISPAHAN. 157
neat brafs field-piece, with the name of that
noted Prince the Duke of Holftein Gottorp
upon it : It feems to have been left here
accidentally by the ambaiTadors of that
Duke to the then Shach of Perfia.
The houfes are mean, in comparifon
with thofe in other parts of Per fa ; the
roofs are raifed and tiled, to carry off the
great falls of rain.
The marines and pools, with which
Refhd is furrounded, renders it very un-
healthy, efpeciaily in the heat of fummer,
when it is often vifned with the pefti-
lence ; and, although it is a place of the
greateft plenty, the inhabitants look as
half ftarved. I was told they were obliged
to confine themfelves to a fcanty diet ; that
if they allowed themfelves the lead indul-
gence, even fo far as to eat their rice
with butter, they were liable to agues, the
reigning ditlemper in this climate. Many
of our people were adually feized with
thefe agues, though none of them proved
mortal. Here, as at the capitals of the o-
ther
AJOURNEY
ther provinces, we were obliged to remain
a conflderable time, much longer than we
inclined : For every province bears the ex~
pence of ambafTadors, from the time they
arrive at its capital, till they reach the ca-
pital of the next province, where frefh fup-
plies of money and cattle are to be procu-
red. The obtaining thefe things, and the
rainy weather, detained us in this difagree-
able place. The pools are full of frogs
that chatter like magpies, and make fuch a
loud croaking, befides their chattering, that
a perfon cannot fleep till he is accuftomed
to that noife.
The country above Remd is very fruit-
ful, particularly in rice, which grows plenti-
fully on the marfhy grounds, and is fufficient
to fupply moft of the other provinces of
Perfia ; there is alfo plenty of fruit natural
to the climate. The Armenians, who in-
habit Remd, make good wine, both red
and white ; and even in the woods you
may fee the vines, loaden with clufters of
grapes, twifting about the trees, which are
left
1717- TO ISPAHAN. 159
left to the birds, as they are not worth ga-
thering amid fuch plenty.
Great flocks of fieldfares, thmfhes, black-
birds, with vaft quantities of ftorks, cranes,
fwans, wild-geefe, and all other kinds of
water-fowl, come hither from the north,
during the winter, and return to the nor-
thern regions in the fpring.
The ftaple of Guilan is raw filk, of
which they make great quantities, both for
their own confumption and for exporta-
tion.
While we remained at Reftid, two am-
bafladors arrived from the Aijuka Chan,
Prince of the Kolmuck-Tartars, in their
way to Ifpahan.
November Qth, we left Refhd, and tra-
velled through thick woods to the fhore,
along which we kept to the left, in all a-
bout five agatz, and then lodged in a fmall
empty village.
The 1 3th, we proceeded fix agatz to a
fmall town called Kefhker. This day the
f oad lay through pleafant woods. At fome
diftance
I A JOURNEY 1717.
diftance from fea we met with fome groves
of orange trees, where we found bloflbms,
ripe and green fruit on the fame tree. The
great rains detained us fome days at Kefh-
ker ; during which a new Maymander ar-
rived from Ifpahan, who arrefted the for-
mer one for fome fault he had committed
on the road.
The 2oth, we travelled from Kefhker to
the fhore three agatz, and halted a little ;
then along the fhore four agarz farther ;
and at midnight reached an empty village ;
a difagreeabie circumftance, after marching
in conftant rain the whole day, which had
rendered the rivers almoft impafTable to
camels.
From the 2ift to the 27th, we advanced
along the fhore. The roads were very
good. At laft we came to a town called
Aftara, where we halted for refrefhment.
There is nothing remarkable about this
place, except its pleafant fituation.
December ift, we reached Siarakent, a
large village. And next day Langgara,
fituated on the fhore at the mouth of a ri-
ver,
1717- TO ISPAHAN. 161
ver, an agatz diftant from the former.
And the 3d to Kyzillagatch, five agatz
from Langgara. This day we pafled si-
long feveral large bridges, over very deep
rivers. In great rains, and ftrong norther-
ly winds, thefe rivers fwell above their
banks, and, fpreading to a great extent
round the bridges, render them impaf-
fable.
The 5th, we travelled five agatz to
Tzamachava. 1 was furprifed at the great
flocks of water- fowl near this place: fo nu-
merous were they that one of our people
killed eight geefe at one difcharge.
The 7th, we entered the plains of Mu-
gan. I defcribed what feemed moft re-
markable in this defert, when going fouth-
ward, and fhall not recapitulate any thing
J formerly obferved. The road was very
good. We lodged at the river Bulgara,
fix agatz from Tzamachava ; the water of
the river is muddy and brackifh. Next
day we advanced feven agatz, and lodged
again in tents ; for there are no houfes in
VOL. I* X this
162 AJOURNEY 1717.
this plain, and only pit water, very brack-
ifli.
On the Qth, we travelled feven agatz to
fome fmall huts, beyond the river Kure,
which we pafled on a bridge of boats. We
paffed this river about a day's journey a-
bove this place, in going to Ifpahan, when
I made my remarks upon it. Seven agatz
from thefe huts ftands a place called Kara-
kurody, the laft ftage in the defert, where
we lodged on the I ith.
The 1 2th, we arrived at Shamachy, five
agatz from the laft ftage. Since the time
we left this place, it had fuffered grievouf-
ly by the plague, which raged here all the
preceding fummer. It was now much a-
bated, though not quite extinguifhed. This
was a difagreeable circumftance, many of
our people were fickly, and two of them
died of the diftemper ; for the empty
houfes, where the Perfians had died, not-
withftanding every precaution, particularly
fmoking the walls, ftill proved infectious.
I
1717. TO ISPAHAN. 163
I was informed, that about feventy thou-
fand perfons had been carried off by the
peftilence within the laft eight months, in
Shamachy and the province of Shirvan.
The i Jth, my old acquaintance, Mon-
fieur Yeiifky the Dantzicker, whom I for-
merly mentioned, came to vifit me. He
was fo altered by ficknefs that I fcarce
knew him. He told me what difmal ha-
vock the plague had made, particularly in
his own family. I afked, why he did not
retire to the country for better air ? His
anfwer was, whither could he fly from,
God Almighty ! This I find to be the ge-
neral opinion of the Mahometans, both
Perfians and Turks. The fame day I had
a vifit from Father Backond, the only mif-
fionary at prefent in thefe parts, his com-
panion, Father Ricard, being dead of the
plague.
The feafon being now far advanced, it
became proper to pitch on fome place for
winter- quarters. The terrible peftilence
which had prevailed fo long, and with fuch
deftruction,
i6'4 A JOURNEY
deftrudion, greatly detered us from chu-
fing this place. The fuperior convenience,
however, of it, the prefent abatement of the
plague, and chiefly becaufe a province is
not obliged to fupport the expences of an
ambaflador till he arrives at the capital,
and feveral other reafons, determined us to
winter at Shamachy.
January I5th, 1718, the chan came to
town from the country, where he had been
all the laft fummer.
The 2 1 ft, the ambaflador paid the chan
a vifit, which was returned the 251!!.
Nothipg material happened during the
winter j only we often heard of the bad
fuccefs of the Shach's forces, which were
fent to Chandahar againft the rebel Mery
Mahmut, and of many incurfions into the
Periian provinces, made by the mountain-
eers who inhabit between the Black and
Cafpian Seas.
March loth, one of our gentlemen,
Monfieur Lopuchin, was fent away by
land to Aftrachan, with an elephant and
all
1718. TO ISPAHAN. 165
all the horfes. He was efcorted by thirty
Ruffian fpldiera, and feme Aftrachan Tar-
tars. In his march, between Derbent and
Terky, he was attacked by feme hundreds
of the mountaineers, called Shaffkalls, who
killed one man and two horfes, and wound*
ed feveral men and the elephant. Meet-
ing, however, with a warm reception, they
thought proper to retire, but carried off
three of the horfes. The gentleman arrived
fafe, without any further misfortune, at
Aftrachan.
April 1 4th, ftiips, commanded by Captain
Rentle, arrived at Niezabatt, in order to
tranfport the ambalTador to Aftrachan. He
could not, however, proceed immediately
to embark, for we were obliged to wait for
an anfwer to aft exp'refs, which the chan
had defpatched to Ifpahan on affairs of im-
portance, which did not return till the end
of May. All of us impatiently defired to
leave Shamachy before the great heat came
on. In the mean time, we diverted our-
felves with hunting. I went often to fee
tjie
1 66 A JOURNEY 1718.
the filk^worms feeding on mulberry leaves.
The inhabitants were apprehenfive that the
plague would break out again in the fum-
mer ; and we had already buried twenty-
two of our people fince our arrival on the
frontiers of Perfia.
On the night of the eight of May, there
was fuch flafhes of lightning, as had not
happened in the memory of man ; though
the night was dark, I could plainly lee the
cattle in the adjacent fields, by means of
the corufcations ; the lightning was accom-
panied with dreadful claps of thunder,
which lafted above two hours.
CHAP,
I 7 i8. TO ISPAHAN. 167
CHAP. VIIL
From Shamachy to St Peter/burgh.
JUNE 1 6th, we left Shamachy, and in
four days arrived fafe at Niezabatt,
where we found {hips waiting to receive us.
On the 2 1 ft, we oegan to load the veflels
with all poffible defpatch, which was foon
accomplifhed by the affiftance of fome Rufs
foldiers, who had wintered at this place.
Since I have mentioned thefe foldiers, I
fhall briefly relate how they happened to
be on this coaft.
The people of Chiva, a territory (fee p.
48.) eaftward from the Cafpian Sea, having
feveral
168 A JOURNEY i 7 iS.
feveral times robbed and plundered fome
caravans of Ruffian merchants going to Bu-
charia, his Czarifli Majefty determined to
fend a fmall body of regular troops, and
fome Coflacks, to demand fatisfaetion for
fuch outrages committed in time of peace.
For this purpofe, Mr Beckvitz, a captain
of- the guards, who was appointed to com-
mand in this expedition, repaired to Aftra-
chan, in fummer 1716, in order to make
all tfye neceflary preparations againft next
fpring. Having accordingly embarked his
men, provifions, and ammunition, at the
proper feafon, he fleered his courfe along
the Cafpian Sea, and landed at a place cal-
led Krafna-vooda, i. e. red water, as near
to Chiva as he conveniently could. This
place was barren and uninhabited. Having
therefore moored his tranfports, he erected
a fmall fort to fecure his retreat, in cafe of
accidents.
In the mean time, he fent a friendly
meflage to the chan of Chiva, to notify his
arrival, and to defire that he would furnifh
him
1718. TO ISPAHAN. 169
him with provifions and quarters for his
men ; for which he offered to pay ready
money. The crafty Tartar returned for
anfwer, that he might come to Chiva with
the greateft fafety, where all his demands
mould be granted. At the fame time* fent
him a prefent of fruits and frefh provifions,
and guides to conduct him on the road,
accompanied with the higheft expreffions
of refpet to his Gzarifh Majefty. Mr
Beckvitz having left about three hundred
men in. the fort, to guard the camp and
provifionsj proceeded with the reft, and a
few field-pieces, towards Chiva.
In three or four days he arrived in the
neighbourhood of the town, where he was
met by feveral of the chiefs, who came
with compliments from the chan, and to
fettle matters relative to the cantonment of
/
the foldieis. This particular was difficult
to adjuft.
Mr Beckvitz infifted, that all his men
ihould be quartered in the town, and no-
thing but infatuation could have influenced
VOL. I. Y him
170 AJOURNEY 1718.
him to alter fo prudent a refolution. But
the Tartars ftarted many objections againft
putting it in execution, and pretended that
the chan and themfelves were willing to
agree to it, but the people were averfe, and
jealous of having fo many armed men
lodged within their walls ; and therefore
they propofed, as a means of quieting the
minds of the people, that he fhould feparate
his men, in order to be quartered more con-
veniently in the adjacent villages, and that
himfelf fhould have lodgings in the town,
with a fufficient guard to attend him. This
motion was ftrongly oppofed by all the old
officers, who looked on it as a ftratagem
laid for their deftrudion. And fuch in
reality it proved in the end.
Mr Beckvitz, deluded by falfe promifes,
at laft confented to canton his men. No
fooner were they divided into fmall parties,
than they were inclofed, and attacked by
great numbers of Tartars, and moft of
them either killed or taken prifoners, who
were afterwards fold for (laves. A few of
them
1718. TO ISPAHAN. 171
them taking the alarm, flood to their arms,
and made a brave defence for fome time,
endeavouring chiefly to regain their camp
and mips ; but having a barren defert to
pafsj and the Tartar horfe haraffing them
day and night, they were at laft obliged to
fubmit to fatal neceffity. The imprudence
of the general was the fole caufe of all
thefe misfortunes ; for, being in no want
of provifions or ammunition, had he only
kept his men together^ the whole combined
power of thefe Tartars could not have pre-
vented his regaining the camp and (hipping.
The camp was next attacked by the Tar-
tars ; but they were repulfed by the garri-
fon, which having now intelligence of
what had pafied at Chiva, demolimed the
fort, reimbarked the men and ftores, and
fet fail for Aftrachan. The feafon was
now too far advanced to gain that port ;
this circumftance, together with hard gales
of contrary winds, obliged them to put into
Niezabatt, in order to pafs the winter.
Here they were hofpitably received by the
Per-
i 7 2 A JOURN.E Y I7 i8.
Perfians ; and the prefence of the ambafla-
dor at Shamachy contributed greatly to
the relief of thefe poor unfortunate people.
Unhappy Beckvitz hitnfelf happened to
be taken prifoner. He was fent for to the
chan's tent, on fome pretence of bufmefs,
where they firft ftruck off his head, then,
after venting their" barbarous rage on his
dead body, they flayed it, and, having
fluffed the ikin with ftraw, placed it, a
miferable fpectacle, on one of the city gates.
This unfortunate gentleman was the fon
of a petty prince, or chief of a tribe in
Tzerkefiia, and had been fent to Ruflia in
his infancy, as a hoflage for his father's
fidelity.
Being now on the point of departing
from Perfia, called by the Perfians Iran,
and alfo Pharfiftan, I fhajl clofe what I
have to* offer regarding that country, by
giving a lift of the principal officers of ftate
who attend that mighty monarch at the
megihfs, i. e. public audience of ambafTa-
dors ; they fit in the hall of audience ac-
cording
1718. TO ISPAHAN. 173
cording to their refpe&ive ranks, and have
all of them, on thofe occafions, magnificent
capes,' and robes of ftate, kept in the King's
wardrobe for that purpofe.
1. The Etmadowlett, prime minifter.
2. SpafTelaar, general in chief.
3. Kurtfy Bafha, general of 1 2,000
men.
A. Kular-agafTy, director of the
prifons.
5. Tfengy Baflia, general of muf-
keteers.
6. Ifhek-agafly Bafha, mafter of
ceremonies.
7. Divan Begg, ch'ief juftice.
8. Toptfhy Bafha, mafter of the
ordnance.
9 Vaggian Aviz, fecretary of
ftate. ' ,
10. Merifh-kaz Bafha, grand fal-
coner.
i j . Dgevedar Bafha, general of the
artillery.'
12.
I 74 AJOURNEY 1718.
12. The Milachurd Bafha Giloff, mafter
of horfe.
13. Milachurd YafTy Bafha, mafter
of the field-horfes.
14. Kolopha.
15. Mamalek, comptroller of the
houfehold.
1 6. KchafTa, cabinet fecretary.
17. Nazyr Daftar, fteward of the
houfehold.
1 8. Vifir Ifpahan, chief magiftrate
of Ifpahan.
19. Vifir Kurtfy, general of horfe.
20. Vifir Kule.
21. Chafnadar Bafha, chief treafu-
rer.
22. Kaliphar Kafhkar, chief judge
in civil affairs.
23. Doroga Taftar, judge of the
city.
24. Sachapt Tauchtzy.
25. Sachapt Narvifs, chief aftrolo-
ger.
26. Hakim Bafha, chief phyfician.
The
! 7 i8. TO ISPAHAN.
The following officers attend the Shach
wherever he goes.
1. The Ibrahim Aga, chief of the eu-
nuchs.
2. Yeufh Bafha, chief of the white
eunuchs.
3. Achmet Aga, chief of the black
eunuchs.
4. Klitch Kurtfhy, fword-bearer.
5. Tzatyn Bafha, quiver-bearer.
6. Saddach Kurtfhy, bow-bearer.
7. Tfang Kurtfhy, mufket- bearer.
8. Dgid Kurtftiy, dart-bearer.
9. Kalchan Kurtfhy, target-bearer.
The following are the chief doctors of
the law of Mahomet.
1 . Sadyr Chafla, the fame office in Per-
fia as that of the Mufti in Turkey*
2. Sadyr Mammalek.
3. Fazyl.
4. Shach Iflam.
5. Chazy.
6. Mullah Bafha.
7. Mu-
176
7. Mudarafs.
8. Piflinamafh.
9. Mutafhett Baflia.
10. Moaftiam Baflia.
Thefe are the principal j befides whom,
there are many other officers, too numerous
to recite. With the foregoing lift I clofe
what I have to fay regarding Perfia.
The 26th, we fet fail from Niezabatt
with a fair wind at fouth-eaft, which lafted
only a few hours ; after which we were
becalmed for three days.
Tuly 2d, the wind became again fair,
and carried us, with a gentle breeze, out
of the deep water into foundings ; but turn-
ing contrary, we came to anchor in thirty-
fathom water, where we lay till the loth,
when it blew a very hard gale, which drove
us from our anchors out to fea ; and, con-
tinuing for two days, brought us again in
fight of the Perfian fliore, which was at this
time no very agreeable object,
The
171$. TO ISPAHAN. 177
The I Jth, the wind chopped about fa-
vourable, and fo continued, with little va-
riation, till the 1 8th, when we arrived fafe
at Aftrachan, to the great joy of all our
company.
September yth, leaving Aftrachan, we
failed up the Volga. Our progrefs, con-
trary to the courfe of the river, was very
flow and tedious. In calms the boats were
drawn up by men, who went upon the
banks ; but in hard gales, we were obliged
to haul them near the fide, and lie ftill.
October I2th, after a voyage of five
weeks, we arrived at the town of SaratofF,
about eight hundred verft diftant from A-
ftrachan. The winter drawing on, pre-
vented our farther progrefs by water. We
therefore unloaded, and difcharged the
boats, being refolved to remain here till th~
fnow fell, when we might proceed by land
in fledges.
November ift, there had now been a lit-
tle fall of fnow, fufficient to fmooth the
VOL. I. Z roads,
178 A JOURNEY 1718.
roads, and .this day we fet out from SaratofF
in fledges.
The 3d, we came to a little town called
Petrofky, about ninety verft from Saratoff.
The 8th, we came to a large town called
Penze, ninety verfl from the former. As
we advanced to the north, the froft and
fnow daily increafed, which made the
roads very fmooth and eafy. Before we left
this place, a fudden rain obliged us to
halt a few days. Here we met with Bri-
gadier Kropotoff, who, with fome regi-
ments of dragoons, had winter quarters at
this place.
The i.4th, the froft and fnow returning,
we fet out from Penze.
The 1 5th, we reached Saranfky, eighty
verft from the former. Here we found
many Swedifli officers, taken at Poltava,
who were well quartered in a plentiful
country.
The 1 7th, we left Saranfky, and the 21 ft,
arrived at Arzamafs, an hundred verft from
Saranfky.
The
1718. TO ISPAHAN. 179
The 24th, we came to Murum, 360
verft from Saratoff, which I mentioned in
going fouthward by water. From Saratoff
to Petrofky, the country is fomewhat dry
and barren ; but the reft of the country,
through which we pafied, is very fruitful,
producing all kinds of corn, fine woods,
particularly of oaks, interfperfed with many
villages ; and the face of the country, con-
ftantly varied by plain and gently rifing
grounds, affords a moft beautiful profpet.
From Murum we came to the town of
Wolodimir, an hundred and thirty verft
from Murum. This place is large and
well peopled, and famous for being for-
merly the refidence of a great prince of the
fame name.
The joth, we arrived fafe at the city of
Mofco, an hundred and forty verft from
the former, and feven hundred and feventy
from Saratoff.
December I9th, we proceeded towards
St Peterfburgh, where we arrived on the
30th. Nothing material happened during
our
i8o A JOURNEY 1718,
our return through Ruflia, and what was
moft remarkable in the country I defcribed
in going fouthward. I cannot help taking
notice of an extraordinary cafe of one of
our people, in an exceffive cold night,
The fellow, expecting to baniih all feeling
of cold from himfelf, drunk a large quan-
tity of fpirits, which produced a drowfmefs,
that ended in fleep in an open fledge.
On arriving at a village, the perfon was
found ftiff, fpeechlefs, and apparently quite
dead ; but being carried to a brook hard
by, and plunged feveral times in the wa-
ter, and then rubbed with inow, and
brought into a warm room, with proper
regimen he ibon recovered, and was able
to proceed next day.
I have often obferved, in other inftances,
that the ufe of ipiritous liquors in cold
weather, is the word of remedies ; for,
though they warm at firft, they leave a
chilnefs behind them, not to be got clear
of for a confiderable time. I have found
by experience nothing preferable to weak
warm
1718. TO ISPAHAN.
warm liquors, mixed with a little fpirits*
The Ruffian travellers carefully avoid the
exceffive ufe of brandy in ftrong frofts.
Thus I have fmifhed my account of a
long, tedious, and dangerous journey which
lafted for three years, attended with many
difficulties, not eafily conceived by thofe
who have not travelled the fame road. At
our return to St Peterfburgh, we found his
Majefty at that place, who, I was informed,
was well fatisfied with the conduct of his
ambaffador, whofe principal errand was to
cultivate and cement amity, and a good
correfpondence, between the two crowns of
Ruffia and Perfia.
Notwithftanding the war with Sweden
had continued near twenty years, this ac-
tive monarch had not neglected, nor even
fufpended, the building and adorning his
new capital. During my abfence, the ap-
pearances of things were fo changed, that
I could fcarce imagine myfelf in the fame
place ; fo furprifing was the alteration in fo
ihort a time. Befides, this Prince had fit-
ted
i82 A JOURNEY 1718.
ted out a navy of thirty fhips of war, and
three hundred gallies : Interprifes which
might have been the work of ages, but not
fuperior to the fingle induftry and adivity
of Peter the Firft.
A JOUR-
JOURNEY
I
FROM
ST PETERSBURGH
IN RUSSIA,
T O
P E K I N
WITH AN EMBASSY
FROM HIS IMPERIAL MAJESTY,
PETER T,H E FIRST,
T O
K A M H
EMPEROR OF CHINA,
IN THE YEAR M.DCC.XIX.
Names of the principal perfons who com-
pofed the train of the Ambaffador^
Leoff Vaflilovich Ifmayloff.
Secretary of the Embafly,
Laurence de Lange.
S ' c '"^
The Ambaflador's Secretary,
Ivan Glazunoff.
Gentlemen of the Embafly,
Kneaz Alexander Safeckin,
Nicolaus de Pauli Kreftitz,
Lukian NefterofF,
Alexie Divoff,
David Grave,
The Author of this Journal.
Gregory, a Prieft.
Interpreters, clerks, a band of mufic,
valets, footmen, &c. in all to the number
of about fixty perfons ; befides a troop of
twenty-five dragoons,, for our efcort from
Tobolcfky to Pekin, and back.
A
JOURNEY, &c.
CHAP. I,
*
From Sf Peferjburgh to Tololfky,
the Capital of Siberia.
WHEN I arrived at St Peterlburgh
from Ifpahan, I met with a very
fenfible mortification, on finding that my
very worthy friend, Dr Arefkine, was no
more ; he died about fix weeks before my
arrival. Not long after which^ upon being
informed that an embafly was preparing
for China, and that his Majefty had nomi-
VOL, I f A a nateci
186 A JOURNEY 1719.
nated LeofF VafFilovich IfmaylofF, a gentle-
man of a family very well known and
much refpe&ed in Ruffia, and a captain of
the guards, for that employment, I became
very defirous of making that journey in
his train.
Upon my acquainting my very good
friend, Artemy Petrovich Valenfky, with
rny defire, he, without lofs of time, recom-
mended me to LeofF Vaffilovich IfmaylofF,
the appointed ambafFador, in fuch a man-
ner as- produced, on all occafions, marks of
friendfhip and regard for me, as well du-
ring the journey, as alfo after our re-
turn, until he died in 1736.
The time between my return from If-
pahan and my fetting out for Pekin, I
fpent. with much fatisfa&ion with my
friends and acquaintance at St Peterfburgh.
Among whom I efteemed as fuch, not on-
ly feveral worthy perfons of my own
countrymen, as well in trade as in the fer-
vice of his Majefty ; but alfo not a few of
the Ruffian gentry, to whom I became
known
ijig. T O P E K I N. 187
known on occanon of my journey to Per-
fia, and of whom I found many to be per-
ions of much worth and honour.
At length the prefents for the Emperor
of China being got ready, as well as the
ambafladoi's defpatches, I fet out from St
Peterfburgh the i4th of July, 1719, in.
company with Meffieurs Lange and Grave,
attended by a few fervants ; the fir ft was
a native of Sweden, and the other of Cour-
land. We travelled to the city of Mofco
in fmall parties, the more eafily to procure
poft-horfes. The weather being very hot
obliged us to make fhort ftages, confining
us moflly to the mornings and evenings.
Having in my Perfian journal defcribed
what is moft remarkable on this road, I
have nothing to add to what I have there
obferved.
Nothing material happened during our
journey to Mofco, where we arrived on
the 3oth of Julyj and joined the ambalTa-
dor, who had arrived there two days be-
fore, having pa (Ted us on the road. We
took
A JOURNEY 1719.
took up our lodgings at the houfe of Mr
Belayof, near the triumphal arch. , Here
we fpent five weeks in preparing barks to
go by water to Cazan, and neceflaries for
fo long and unfrequented a road. This
interval we pafled very agreeably, being
invited to all the entertainments the place
afforded.
September Qth, having {hipped our bag-
gage, and prepared every thing for our
departure, we went ourfelves on board ;
and, after firing nine guns, rowed down
the river Mofco. There is a fhorter way
from Mofco to Siberia through Yaro-
flave ; but, as we were incumbered with
heavy baggage, confifting chiefly of pre-
fents from his Majefty to the Emperor of
China, it was thought beft to proceed as
far as poflible by water.
Accordingly, we continued our courfe
down the Mofco river to Kolumna, then
into the river Ocka ; and, paffing Pere-
flave-Refanfky, Murum, and other towns
of lefs note, we arrived at Nifhna-Novogo*
rod,
1719. TO P E fc I N. 189
rod, fituated to the right hand, on a high
bank of the Ocka, at its confluence with
the Volga. Leaving Nifhna, we entered
the river Volga, and proceeded towards
Cazan.
After a voyage of fix weeks we arrived
at Cazan on the 2oth of October. We
intended to have continued our route far-
ther down the Volga to the river Kama,
which falls into the Volga about fixty verft
below Cazan, and then up the Kama to
Solikamfky ; but the advancement of the
feafon, and the froft coming on apace,
made us refolve to remain at Cazan till the
winter fet in, left we fhould run the ha-
zard of being frozen up near fome unin-
habited place on the Kama.
In confequence of this refolution, the
barks were difcharged, and we took up our
lodgings in the city. Here I found many
of my old friends and acquaintance, parti-
cularly the Swedifh officers ; among others,
General Hamilton, General Rofen, and
Baron Wachmaiter, who ftill .remained
prifoners
190 A JOURNEY 1719.
prifoners of war, regretting the hard fate
of their long captivity. We ftaid here a-
bout five weeks, waiting for the fnow fal-
ling to fmooth the roads, and in the mean
time were employed in preparing fledges,
and other neceflaries for our journey. Ha-
ving formerly made my remarks on this
route, and particularly on Cazan and its
neighbourhood, I fhall now purfue our
journey towards Siberia.
November 24th, we fent off the heavy
baggage ; but Monfieur Ifmayloff, with a
few of the gentlemen, remained fome days
longer, becaufe it was difagreeable travel-
ling on rough roads with loaded fledges.
At laft, on the 28th, late in the night, the
ambafTador quitted Cazan, keeping to the
north-eaftward. There being many villa-
ges on the road, we changed horfes as
often as occafion required.
The 29th, we travelled through woods,
confiding chiefly of tall oaks, fir, and
birch. This part of the country is very
fruitful, producing plenty of cattle, corn,
and
1719. T P E K I N. 191
and honey. The hives are not made like
thofe in England ; the inhabitants take the
trunk of a lime-tree, afpin, or any {"oft
wood, of about five or fix feet long ; ha-
ving fcooped it hollow, they make a large
aperture in one fide, about a foot in length
and four inches broad ; they then fix crofs
rods within the trunk for the bees to build
upon, and, having done this, clofe up the
place carefully with a board, leaving fmall
notches for the bees to go in and out.
Thefe hives are planted in proper places,
at the fide of a wood, and tied to a tree
with ftrong wythes, to prevent their being
deftroyed by the bears, who are great de-
vourers of honey. The wax and honey
exported yearly from Cazan make a very
confiderable article of trade. I have feen
above an hundred hives near one village,
and was informed, that they have a me-
thod of extracting the honey and wax
without killing the bees, which would cer-
tainly be worth knowing ; but I was told
it fo indiftinctly, that I could not under-
ftand
A JOURNEY 1719,
ftand it, and had no opportunity of feeing
it practifed.
The villages through which we pafled
were moftly inhabited by the Tzeremifh
and Tzoowafti Tartars, whom 1 have for-
merly mentioned. The three following
days the roads were rough and narrow, ly-
ing through dark woods, interfperfed with
fome villages and corn-fields. We pafled
the Ick and feveral fmaller rivers, and then
the Viatka, a pretty large one ; all which
^ifcharge themfelves into the Kama.
After a tedious journey of fix days we
came to a fmall town called Klinof, or
more commonly Viatka, from the river of
that name running near it. The fituation
of this place is very pleafant, having round
it corn-fields and fine pafture ; and the ri-
vers in the neighbourhood abounding with
great variety of fifh.
The country about Klinof is reckoned
fo proper pafturage for fheep, that his Ma-
jefly ordered fome thoufands of German
iheep, moft efteemed for their wool, to be
bought
1719- TO P E K I N. 193
bought and fent thither, with a view to
eftablifh a manufactory at this place for
clothing his army. He alfo caufed a Ger-
man ihepherd to be engaged in his fervice,
who is fettled here, and enjoys a confider-
able falary. The flocks are already fo nu-
merous, that I am perfuaded they will in
time anfwer the end propofed. A thou-
fand other inftances might be produced of
the unbounded genius of this great and ac-
tive Prince, who fpares no expence, and
overlooks nothing that can contribute ei-
ther to the honour or advantage of his
empire. 1 cannot omit another feemingly
inconfiderable article ; I mean pump-lea-
ther. This commodity was formerly
brought from England and Holland at no
fmall charge ; to fave which, his Majefty
gave orders to engage an Englim tanner
for a certain number of years, whom he
fent to Cazan, where the beft hides are, to
teach the natives the art of drefiing them.
This fcheme has fully anfwered the end in
view, and produced abundance, not only
VOL. I. B b f
194 A JOURNEY 1719,
of pump-leather, but of every other kind
of leather whereof that country hath any
need.
There being no verft-pofts on this, tho'
on mofl other roads in Ruflia, I compute
the diftance between Cazan and Klinof to
be about five hundred verft ; each verft
meafures one thoufand one hundred and
fixty-fix yards and two feet Englifh. Here
1 met with feveral Swedifh officers, who
pafTed a folitary life in a pleafant and plen-
tiful country. We halted one day to re-
frefh ourfelves ; ana the next, being the
5th of December, we left the baggage to
follow leifurely, and fet out again toward
Solikamlky. On the yth, we reached
Kay-gorod, a fmall town. We perceived
the cold becoming daily more intenfe as
we proceeded northward along the banks
of the Kama.
The 8th, we quitted Kay-gorod in a ve-
hement cold. Though there was little
wind, and a thick fog, the froft continued
fo penetrating, that feveral of our people,
who
1719- T P E K I N. 195
who were moft expofed, had their fingers
and toes frozen. Moft of them recovered
by the common method of rubbing the
numbed parts with fnow ; but, had we not
halted from time to time at -villages to let
them warm themfelves, they muft have
perifhed by cold. On the gth, we arrived
at the town of Solikamfky, derived from
Sole fait and Kama the river, on the banks
of which it is fituated. Our arrival was a
moft agreeable circumftance, as the pier-
cing froft ftill prevailed..
Solikamfky is a large and populous
town, and the capital of a province of
that name ; which is at prefent annexed
to the government of Siberia. Its fitua-
tion is very pleafant, upon the eaftern bank
of the Kama. This river is of great fame
in thefe parts of the world. It rifes far .to
the north, and in its courfe receives the
Parma, Pilva, Koyva, and many other ri-
vers, which together form a mighty ftream,
very nearly equal to the Volga, into which
it difcharges itfelf, about fixty verft beloiv
the
I 9 6 A JOURNEY i 7 ig.
the city of Cazan, and lofes its name. Its
long courfe to the fouth-weft is now turned
fliort, by the current of the Volga, and
carried toward the fouth-eaft. The Kama
is well flored with variety of excellent fifh.
On the banks are fine corn-fields and paf-
ture grounds, but often interrupted by
thick woods, efpecially to the north. Thefe
woods are (locked with different kinds of
game, and wild beafts, natural to the cli-
mate.
Solikamfky is famous for having many
fait- pits in its neighbourhood, the property
of my worthy friend Baron Stroganof, by
virtue of a grant from his Majefty. The
Baron has brought thefe works to fuch per-
fection, that he is able to ferve all Ruffia
with fait, and could befides furnifh a con-
fiderable quantity for exportation, were
there any demand. The fait is of a brown-
sfh colour, and very good of the kind.
The common method of procuring this
fait is as follows : They dig pits in the
earth till they come to the falt-rock, which
feems
1719* TO P E K I N. 197
feems to lie in thefe parts at a certain dif-
tance from the furface, as coals do in other
places of the world. When the pit is fi-
nimed, it is naturally, and of courfe, filled
with water ; which, {landing for a conve-
nient time, till it is fufficiently impregna-
ted with the fait, is then drawn out with
pumps and other engines, and put into
large iron caldrons, where it is boiled to
a proper confidence ; when, the water
being evaporated, the fait is left upon the
bottom.
I was informed of another curious and
extraordinary procefs, by which they draw
fait- water from a frefli- water river, which
I cannot omit taking notice of. In the ri-
vers near this place there is a mixture of
falt-water arifing from the fprings, which
either have their fource in the falt-rocks, or
run through them. It is the bufmefs of
the inhabitants to difcover the places where
thefe fprings empty themfelves into the ri-
vers, which they do by diving, or fome
other manner ; having done this, they
make
A JOURNEY
make a large frame of ftrong thick balks
or beams joined very clofe, about fifteen
or twenty feet fquare, and of depth enough
to reach the bottom of the river, while
part of it remains above the furface ; when
the ice is very ftrong, they fink this ma-
chine into the river, over the place where
the fait fpring iffues, and drive ftrong piles
of wood all around, to hinder its being
forced from this pofition by the current, or
by floating ice in the end of winter. Du-
ring the winter, they draw out all the
water, mud, and fand, contained within
the machine, and fink it ftill deeper un-
til it hath penetrated the bottom of the
channel of the river, and prevented all
further communication between it and the
fait fpring. The frame is now filled on-
ly with the falt-water, ifluing from the
fpring, from whence it is drawn, and the
fait extracted, as formerly defcribed.
However tedious and expenfive this
procefs may feem, thefe people perform it
' xvith great readinefs and eafej and, what is
ftill
1719. TO P E K I N.
ftill more extraordinary, without regular
inftruction in any art fubfervient to that
purpofe, but by the mere force of natural
genius. The Baron has a great number of
hands conftantly employed in this fervice.
And the woods for fewel are inexhauf-
tible.
When the fait is made, it is laid up in
granaries, till the feafon of Iran/porting it
to Mofco, St Peterfburgh, and other pla-
ces. The barks for this purpofe, called by
the Ruffians lodia, are of a conftru&ion
fomewhat uncommon. I have feen fome
of them longer and broader than any firft
rate man of war in England, and not one
iron nail in the whole fabric. All of them
are flat-bottomed, having one tall tree for
a maft, and a fail of light canvafs in pro-
portion. To manage this mighty machine,
fix or eight hundred men are neceflary.
The rudder is nearly as long as the bark,
and fo unwieldy, that fometimes it requires
forty or fifty men to fleer it. They load
thefe fhips very deep, and let them float
down
A JOURNEY 1719.
down the Kama into the Volga ; where,
if the wind is not favourable, they are o-
bliged to draw them, againft the ftream, to
the place of their deftination.
I cannot leave Solikamiky without men-
tioning the rich iron-mines in the country
adjacent, at Kathenaburg, and other places
of that diftricT:, which produce iron, equal
perhaps in quality to the beft in the world.
Thefe works have of late been brought to
great perfection, by the fkill and indefati-
gable induftry of Mr Demidof, a native of
Ruffia, enabled and encouraged to carry
them on by a beneficial grant from his Ma-
jefty, who is always ready to affift and pro-
tect thofe who, by their ingenuity, form
projects to the advantage of his country.
Thefe works, I am informed, are ftill
capable of great improvement. The ore is
very good, and rifes in many places to the
very furface of the earth, and may be dug
at a fmall expence. As for wood to fmelt
it, no place in the world can have greater
advantage. Befides, all the machines may
be
1719- TO P E K I N.
Be driven by water ; and there is an eafy
communication by the rivers to St Peterf-
burgh, for exportation, and to many other
parts of Ruffia, for inland confumption.
In thefe mines are often found magnets
of various fizes. I have feen fome of them
very large, and of high virtue.
There are feveral other iron-works in
Ruffia ; for inftance, at Tula, Olonhz,' and
other places ; but the metal is of an infe-
rior quality to that of Siberia. Befides thefe
of iron, there are alfo rich mines of excel-
lent copper at this place, which, being late-
ly difcovered, are capable of great improve-
ment. The copper- ore alfo rifes to the
very furface.
In the neighbourhood of Solikamlky is
found the foffil called afbeftos ; of which is
made a kind of cloth like linen, that may
be put into the fire, and taken out again,
unconfumed. This cloth was known a-
mong the ancients, and ufed by them on fe-
veral occafions. At prefent, it goes by the
name of the incornbuftible linen.
VOL. I. C c The
202 A JOURNEY
The afbeftos, like many both curious and
ufeful difcoveries, was found out by mere
accident in thefe parts. 1 fhall briefly relate
in what manner : A certain huntfman
being about te load his fowling-piece, and
wanting wadding, obferved a great flone in.
the woods, which Teemed to have fome
flakes upon it like loofe threads ; he foon
found that, by rubbing, it turned into a foft
downy fu'^ftance fit for his ufe : He therefore
filled his pocket with it ; but, having fired
his piece, was furprifed to fee that the gun-
powder had no effect upon the wadding.
This raifed his curiofity fo far, that he
kindled a fire on purpofe, into which he
put the albeftos ; but ftill took it out en-
tire^jand of the fame ufe as formerly. This
experiment fo frightened the poor fportf-
man, that he imagined the devil had ta-
ken pofleffion of the fofiil. On return-
ing home, he narrated what had happened
to the prieft of the parifh, who, amazed at
the relation, repeated it fo frequently, that
at laft he told it to a perfon who was ao
quainte^
TO P E K I N. 203
quainted with that quality peculiar to the
afbeftos ; and, on examination, found the
flakes to be that foffil.
The weather is much colder at Solikam-
fky than at other places fituated feveral de-
grees nearer to the north pole. Perhaps
its great diftance from any part of the o-
cean may be partly the caufe of the excef-
five cold, which fometimes prevails.
December loth, the ambaffador took
poft-horfes, and fet out for Tobolfky, lea-
ving the baggage to follow as fhould be
moft convenient. About midnight we came
to a village called Martinfky ; here having
changed horfes, we foon reached the moun-
tains named Verchaturfky-gory, where we
found the fnow very deep, and a ftrong
froft ftill continued. We kept on our jour-
ney, afcending and defcending thefe high
and fteep mountains for the fpace of fifteen
hours. In fuch of the valleys as are fit for
culture, are found Ruffian villages well
peopled. And, where the woods are cue
down,
204 A JOURNEY 1719.
down, there appeared a beautiful landfcape,
even at this bleak feafon.
Thefe mountains divide Ruflia from Si-
beria. They run in a ridge from north to
focth, inclining a liule to the eaft and weft
of thefe points. They are quite covered
with wood, confiding of tall firs of differ-
ent kinds, larixes, birch, and other trees
natural to the climate ; and abound with
game, and various kinds of wild beafts.
Their length, from north to fouth, I can-
not afcertain ; but compute their breadth,
where we palled, to be about forty Englifh
miles. But they are not near fo high as
the mountains I have feen in Perfia, and
other parts of the world.
Having pafled thefe mountains, we de-
fcended, on the i ith, into a country finely
varied with plains and rifing grounds, in-
terfperfed with woods, villages, corn-fields,
and pafturage ; and, in the evening, reach-
ed the town called Verchaturia, from verch,
which fignifies high, and Tura the name of
the river on which the town ftands. This
river
1719- T P E K I N. 205
river is navigable, and runs to the eaft till
it empties itfelf into the Tobol. Vercha-
turia is pleafamly fituated upon a rifing
ground, and fortified with a ditch and pal-
lifades. It is governed by a commandant,
who has under him a garrifon, confifting of
fome regular troops and Coflacks. What
makes Verchaturia confiderable, is its being
a frontier town, and commanding the only
entry from Ruffia into Siberia. Here is a
cuftom-houfe, where all merchants are obli-
ged to make entry of what fums of money
or merchandife they carry into Siberia, or
from Siberia into Ruflia ; on all which is
charged a duty of ten per cent, to his Ma-
jefty. Though this impoft may appear
high, it is really very moderate, confider-
ing the profits which the trade yields, and
it extends only to the money to be employ-
ed in traffic ; for every merchant is allow-
ed a certain fum for his expences, free of
all duty.
The country adjacent to Verchaturia is
inhabited by a race of people calLed Vo-
gullitz,
06 AJOURNEY
gullitz, who differ in language, drefs, and
manners* from any nation I ever faw.
Their features and perfons have a refem-
blance of the Tzoowafliians near Cazan.
They have fome obfcure notions of the
Deity, and are very fond of a kind of wi-
zards called Shamans, whom they hold in
great efteem. I fhall have occafion to fpeak
more fully of thefe Shamans afterwards.
The Vogullitz know nothing of agricul-
ture, but live in huts in the woods, and
fubfift by hunting and fifhing. They are
an honeft inofFenfive people; but not very-
numerous ; arifing, perhaps, from their
unfocial and uncomfortable manner of life.
The Archbifhop of Tobolfky hath of late,
by fc his pious labours, converted many of
them to Chriftianity ; who now begin to
build houfes, and cultivate fome appear-
ance of fociety ; and probably, in time, the
reft will follow fo laudable an example.
This, however, will depend much on the
encouragement they meet with, from the
clergy and fub-governours of provinces. I
vifited
1719. TO P E K 1 N. 2.97
vifited them as often as any opportunity
offered, both in their huts and houfes, and
endeavoured to procure fome information
about their original, or from whence they
came to fettle in thefe northern parts, but
could obtain nothing fatisfa&ory on either
of thefe heads.
Before we enter Siberia, it will not be
perhaps improper to give a fhort account
of the fingular manner in which this moft
extenfive country was difcovered by the
Ruffians.
About the beginning of the laft century,
a certain Don-CorTack, named Yarmak Ti-
motheovitz, being obliged, by fome acci-
dent, to leave his native country, and ha-
ving no means pf fubfiftence, he, with a
few accomplices, betook themfelves to rob-
bing on the highways? He foon became
famous and powerful ; for he robbed only
the rich ; and, by a generofity uncommon
in fuch a character, liberally beftowed to
fuch as were in want. He never killed,
nor even hurt any perfon, unlefs compelled
to
208 A JOURNEY
to fuch outrages in his own defence. This
behaviour fo raifed his reputation, that all
the idle fellows in the country enlifted
themfelves in his gang, proud to follow fo
brave and enterprifmg a leader. He became
at laft fo troublefome, that the governours
of the fouthern provinces fent out troops
to apprehend him ; but, being previoufly
informed of the defign, he withdrew from
the land, and procuring boats upon the
Volga, commenced pirate on that river.
Being attacked here alfo, he was forced to
crofs the Cafpian Sea, and flicker himfelf
on the Perfian fhore, where he pafTed fome
time under the difguife of a merchant.
Being again discovered, he was obliged, by
the Perfians, to quit their coaft : And now
his only refuge was to return to the Vol-
ga, where he behaved with great circum-
fpection, often lurking in woods and villa-
ges ; and, being in no want of money, paid
the inhabitants liberally for every thing he
needed. Forefeeing, however, that fuch a
numerous gang could not be long conceal-
ed,
TO P E K I N.
209
ed, he took the refolution of leaving the
Volga, and fleered his courfe up the river
Kama, at that time little frequented by the
Ruffians, or any other nation ; here he
hoped to find, at leaft, a fafe retreat during
the winter. ^Yarmak, therefore, with his
followers, amounting to the number of
two Jhundred, continued their voyage up
the Kama, till they were flopped by the
ice, at no great diftance from a large vil-
lage, now belonging to Baron Stroganof.
The inhabitants were alarmed at the fight of
fo many armed men, whom they were not
able to oppofe, and therefore gave them an
hofpitable reception. Yarmak demanded
only provifions and winter-quarters for his
money, promiiing to leave them unmo-
lefted next fpring. In confequence of this
declaration, he and his followers pafled the
winter very quietly in this remote place ;
afraid, however, at the approach of fum-
mer, of being difcovered by the govern-
ment, and uncertain what courfe to fteer ;
it was at laft determined to crofs the moun-
VOL. I. D d tains
2io A JOURNEY 1719.
tains of Verchaturia, and go to the eaft-
ward, in hopes of finding fome inhabited
country, or at lead a fafe retreat.
Having patted the mountains, they arri-
ved at the river Tur ; and, rinding it na-
vigable, foon made a fufficient number of
canoes for the whole gang. After rowing
for fome days down the Tur, they difco-
vered feveral villages of Mahometan Tar-
tars, who were furprifed at the fight of
fuch a number of ftrangers, of whom they
had before never fo much as heard. Yar-
mak having got what intelligence he could
procure of the fituation and government of
the country, purfued his voyage to the ri-
ver Tobol, where he found the towns po-
pulous, and the land well cultivated. His
approach alarmed the King of the Tartars,
who aflembled a numerous body of horfe
and foot, armed with bows and arrows,
lances, and other fuch weapons, with whom
our adventurer had many fkirmifhes, and
defeated great multitudes, by means of his
fire-arms, which had never before been
known
1719- T -O P E K I N. 211
known in thefe parts* The poor Tartars
were as much amazed and terrified, at the
fight of the Ruffians and their arms,- as the
inhabitants of Mexico on the arrival of the
Spaniards in America, to which Siberia
may, in many refpedls, be compared.
Yarmak, finding his enemies daily more
numerous the nearer he approached the re-
fidence of the Tartar King ; having alfo
loft many of his men, in continual encoun-
ters, and fpent the greateft part of his am-
munition ; knowing, befides, of no place
of fafety, where he might pafs the winter,
which is both long and fevere in this quar-
ter ; at laft determined to retreat. He
therefore fteered his'courfe to the weft, up
the Tobol and Tur rivers. The furious
Tartars gave him no reft, but harafled him
perpetually from the banks. ,He himfelf
and few more efcaped, with a confiderable
booty, and returned to the village, where
they wintered the preceding year. The
inhabitants, on feeing the rich furs and o*
ther fpoils, gave them a welcome reception.
And
212 AJOURNEY 1719.
And Yarmak did not forget to difpenfe his
favours liberally among thofe who had en-
tertained him in his diftrefs, when- he fled
from jurtice.
Our adventurer had now time to reflect
on his miferabie circumltances. He confir
-dered, that his lurking in thefe parts, tho*
remo'te from any town, could not be long
a fecret : To make another attempt againft
the Tartars with a handful of men, ill pro-
vided with arms and ammunition, might
1 perhaps be ruinous, and certainly unfuc-
cefsful. He therefore refolved to fubmit
himfelf to his-Majefty's clemency, in hopes
of obtaining a gracious pardon for himfelf
and his accomplices, on condition of point-
ing out the way to a rich and eafy conqueft
of a country which he had lately difcover-
ed. The propofal was made at court by a
friend, and was of too great importance to
be ne^U'dled. In (hort, Yatmak was
brought to Mofco, under a fafe conduct,
where he communicated the whole affair.
He begged his Majefty's pardon, andafked
a
1719- T O P E K I N. 213
p. certain number of troops, which he pro-
mifed to lead to a glorious conqueft. His
Majefty granted him a pardon, approved of
the expedition, and gave immediate orders
for the troops to attend him. They march-
ed to Solikamfky, where they pafled the
winter in making preparations for the en-
terpnfe, which was to be undertaken in
the fpring.
During this interval, Yarmak behaved
with furprifing prudence and activity, and
difcovered himfelf to be a perfon of uncom-
mon genius. He collected fuch of his for-
mer followers as remained, and formed
them into a company, in whom he could
confide on all occafions.
At the proper feafon, the troops fet out
towards Siberia. On coming into the in-
habited part of the country, they found
many ftraggling parties of Tartars in arms,
ready to oppofe them, and a number of
boats upon the rivers, full of armed men.
The King of the Tartars himfelf was on
board one of thefe veflels. This expedition
was
2i 4 AJOURNEY 1719,
was of fhort duration ; and, in the iflue,
fully anfwered the expectation of the Ruf-
fians. I cannot omit a few particulars of
the laft action. The Tartars in the boats,
being purfued by the Ruffians, a battle en-
fued on the river Irtifh. Yarmak obfer-
ving the King's barge, ordered his crew to
board her ; which he endeavouring to do
at the head of his men, jumped fliort, fell
into the river, and was drowned, to the
great grief of all his followers. Thus fell
poor Yarmak ! Notwithftanding this mif-
fortune, the Ruffians gained a complete
victory. The brave King of the Tartars
loft his life in the action. His fon, and
the reft of the royal family, were taken
prifoners, and fent to Mofco, where they
were honourably received by the Czar, and
treated according to their quality. The
prince had an extenfive property granted
him in Ruffia, which the family enjoys to
this day, together with the title of Sibirfky
Czarevitz or Prince of Siberia ; which, I
believe, is a more generous treatment of
the
1719. TO P E K I N. 2IJ
the conquered than any of the mighty mo-
narchs of Peru or Mexico, or any of their
lineage, have experienced.
December nth, we left Verchaturia, in
deep fnow. The cold was exceflive, and
the Iky clear.
Next day, we came to a large village,
having a few of the Vogullitz Tartars in
the neighbourhood ; and, the 1 3th, arrived
at the town of Epantfhin. From Vercha-
turia to this place the country is moftly
covered with woods. About the villages
there are large plains, for corn or paflu-
rage. The cattle are in good condition.
The horfes, particularly, being of the Tar-
tar breed, are larger, and better fhaped,
than ordinary, and fit for any ufe.
Epantfhin is but a imall place, fortified
with a ditch and pallifades, and defended
by a few foldiers in garrifon. This place
is fometimes alarmed with incurfions of the
Tartars, called Koflatfhy-Orda, and Kara-
Kalpacks ; but the Ruffians have of late fo
fortified their frontiers, that thefe rovers
appear
appear feldomer than formerly. Both thefe
tribes are Mahometans, live always in
tents, and fpread themfelves, with their
flocks, in the great clefert. Both are very
numerous, and own fubje&ion to different
chiefs, whom they call Batteer, which fig-
nifies a hero. Thefe are chofen by them-
felves, and are the mod famous among
them for their abilities in military exploits.
They are at continual war with the Kal-
mucks, who inhabit along the Volga, and
with all their other neighbours. They are
not able to (land againft regular troops ;
and, when attacked by them, retire into
the wide defert, with their families and
cattle, whither none, but people accuftom-
ed to their manner of life, can follow
them.
The country of. the Kara- Kal packs, or
Black-Caps, io called from a kind of caps
they commonly wear, turned up with
black lamb-fldns, lies to the fouth-weft,
towards the Volga. That of the KoiTatmy-
Orda extends to the fouth-eaft, as far as
the
1719. TO P E K I N. 217
the river Irtifli. The courfe of this river
1 fhall have occafion to mention after-
wards.
The 1 4th, we came to a pretty large
town, called Tumen, fituated upon the
north bank of the river Tuma, from
whence the place takes its name. The
banks of the Tuma are high and fteep.
There is a very convenient wooden bridge
at this place. The Tuma has its fource fat-
to the weft, and, in its courfe, is augment-
ed by the Tura, and feveral other rivers.
It continues to run to the eaft, till meeting
with the Tobol, it lofes itfelf and name.
The country between Epantfhin and
Tumen begins to be more open, and better
peopled, than that weftward of thefe pla-
ces. For, betides the Ruffians, who make
the greateft part of the inhabitants, we
meet with feveral villages inhabited by the
defcendents of the ancient Mahometans,
who were natives of thefe places. Thefe
Tartars fubfift by agriculture, and pafs their
lives without care or difturbance, in the
* I; E e free
i8 A JOURNEY 1719.
free exercife of their religion, and other
privileges.
Tumen is a pretty neat place, and well
fortified. The ftreets are fpacious, and the
houfes built in a ftraight line. The adja-
cent country is covered with fine woods,
interfperfed with villages, corn-fields, arid
pafturage ; and provifioris of all kinds are
very plentiful. The merchants of this place
have a confiderable trade in furs, particu-
larly the fkins of foxes and fquirrels j
which, indeed, are not fo valuable here as
they are to the eaftward.
Early on the ijth, we left this place,
keeping on our courfe along the banks of
the Tuma, till we arrived at the river To-
bol, which we crofled, and proceeded along
the eaftern bank, through a fine country,
and well peopled. Though the froft ftill
continued flrong, it was not near fo vio-
lent and piercing as about Solikamfky 5
which may proceed from the woods being
Cut down, and the country cultivated. On
the other fide of the river, indeed, the face
of
T P E K I N. 419
of the country appeared flat and morafly,
abounding with tall and dark woods.
The 1 6th, about noon, we were in fight
of the city of Tobolfky, though diftant
from us about twenty Englifh miles. It
(lands upon a very high bank of the To-
bol. The walls are white, and the crofles
and cupolas of the churches guildec^, and
make a very fine appearance. About two
o'clock we arrived fafe at the city of To-
bolfky, the capital of this mighty pro-
vince, and the refidence of the governour.
We lodged in the broad-ftreet, leading to
the governour's palace, and the courts of
juftice.
We travelled between Tumen and To-
bolfky, about two hundred and fifty verft,
in the fpace of thirty hours. Sledges are
the moft fimple and convenient machines
for travelling on fnow that can be imagi-
ned. And the perfon in the fledge may
either fit, or lie along upon the couch, ac-
cording to his inclination,
CHAP.
$20 A JOURNEY 1.719,
C HA P. II.
Occurrences at Tobolfky^ Obfervations*
on the Kalmucks, &c. and Jour-
ney continued to Tomfky.
TOBOLSKY is fituated in latitude fifty-
eight degrees forty minutes north, at
$he conflux of the Irtim and Tobol. From
this laft the city has its name. Both thefe
rivers are navigable for feveral hundred
miles above this place. The Irtim, after
receiving the Tobol, becomes a noble
flream, and difcharges itfelf into the Oby.
This fituation was chofen by the Ruffians,
both for its ftrength and beauty. Formerly
the Tartar princes had their abode at q.
place
1719.
TO P E K I N.
place about thirty verft fouth from Tobol-
iky, which is now neglected and ruinous.
Toboliky is fortified with a ftrong brick-
wall, having fquare towers and baftions at
proper diftances, and is well furniflied with
military ftores. Within the town ftand the
governour's palace, courts of juftice, feve-
ral churches built of brick, particularly a
large cathedral, and the palace of the arch-
bifhop. From the walls you have a very
extenfive profpecl: of a fine country, efpe-
cially to the fouth. To the weft the land
is alfo flat, and overgrown with tall woods.
The inhabitants are chiefly Ruffians, of dif-
ferent profeffions ; many of them are mer-
chants, and very rich, by the profitable
trade they carry on to the borders of Chi-
na, and many places of their own country.
Thefe live moftly upon the hill. Under
the hill, in the fuburbs, along the banks of
the river, are feveral large ftreets, called
the Tartar- ftreets, occupied by the remains
of the ancient inhabitants of thefe parts.
Here, as at other places, thefe people enjoy
the
A JOURNEY 1719;
the free exerclfe of their religion, and
the privileges of trade. They refemble,
in their perfons, religion, language, and
manners, the Tartars of Cazan and Aftra-
chan. Their houfes are very cleanly. They
are very courteous to ftrangers, and ef-
teemed honeft ; on which account they
get great credit in their commercial affairs.
Befides the fortification formerly mention-
ed about the town, the whole fuburbs are
furrounded with a ditch and pallifades.
When we were at Tobollky, Siberia was
fuperintended by Mr Petrof Solovoy, vicc-
governour, a perfon well acquainted with
the bufmefs of the government, and a Gap-
tain of the guards. The former governour,
Kneaz Gagarin, had incurred his Majefty's
difpleafure, and was recalled ; and his fuc-
ceflbr, Kneaz Alexie Michaylovitz Cher-
kafky, a nobleman worthy of fuch an im-
portant truft, was not yet arrived.
As, in moft other towns through which
we pafTed, we found here many Swedifh
pfficers of diftinclion. Among others,
1719. T O P E K I N. 223
Monfieur Dittmar, formerly fecretary to
Charles XII. King of Sweden. He was a
native of Livonia, and equally efteemed
for his probity and capacity. He was much
refpe&ed by the late governour, who, in-
deed, was a friend to all thefe unfortunate
gentlemen. They were allowed to walk
about at large, a-hunting or fifhing, and
even permitted to travel to other places, to
vifit their countrymen. For my part, I
think the greateft favour his Majefty fhew-
ed thefe prifoners, was the cantoning them
in thefe parts, where they may live well at
a fmall expence, and enjoy all the liberty
that perfons in their circumftances can ex-
pect.
I cannot but obferve, that .the Swedifh
prifoners, difperfed in mofl of the towns in
this country, contributed not a little to the
civilizing the inhabitants of thefe fliftant
regions, as they were the means of intro-
ducing feveral ufeful arts, which were al-
xnoft unknown before their arrival.
Many
A JOURNEY 1719,
Many of the officers, being gentlemen of
liberal education, the better to fupport
their tedious capitivity, devoted their time
to the ftudy of the more agreeable and en-
tertaining parts of fcience, particularly mu-
fic and painting ; wherein fome of them
attained to great perfe&ion. I was prefent
at feveral of their concerts, and was not a
little furprifed to find fuch harmony, and
variety of mufical inftruments, in this part
of the world.
They fometimes amufed themfelves with
teaching young gentlemen and ladies the
French and German languages, mufic$
dancing, and other fimilar accomplifhrnents;
whereby they gained many friends among
the people of diftinction ; a circumftance, to
men in their fituation,both honourable and
ufeful.
In Tobolfky there are always about five
or fix thoufand regular troops, horfe and
foot, befides a number of irregulars. Thefe
troops, added to the natural ftrength of
the place, effectually fecure it from any
attacks of the neighbouring Tartars.
1719. TO P E K I N. 225
The woods and fields about Tobolfky
are ftored with all kinds of game natural
to the climate ; fuch as the coq-limoge,
coq-bruiere, and gilinots ; the laft are a-
bout the fize of a partridge, their flefh is
white, and very agreeable. There is ano-
ther kind of thefe gilinots, fomewhat larger,
with rough feet, which, in the winter,
turn white as a dove. Alfo the common
partridge, which, on the approach of win-
ter, flies off to more temperate climates ;
wood-cocks, a great variety of fnipes,
which fly off in autumn, after having
hatched their young. As for water-fowl,
no country in the world can produce fuch
numbers, and variety ; they are alfo birds
of paflage. In my Perfian journal, I gave
an account of the vaft flocks of thefe fowls
on the fhores of the Cafpian Sea.
Here alfo you meet with feveral kinds
of fmall birds, about the fize of a lark, par-
ticularly thofe called fnow-birds. They come
to Siberia in vaft flocks in autumn, and re-
main till the fpring, when they difappear.
VOL. I. F f Many
226 AJOURNEY 1719,
Many of them are white as fnow, fome
fpeckled, apd others all over brown. They
are reckoned a very fine and delicious difli.
I obferved another very pretty bird, a-
bout the fize of a thrufli, having beautiful
red and yellow feathers in the wings and
tail, with a tuft of brown feathers on its
head, which it raifes at pleafure. Thefe
are alfo birds of paflage ; and, as they
breed no where in Europe or Afia that I
know of, perhaps both thefe and the fnow-
birds may come to Siberia from the north-
ern parts of America. This conjecture
will appear not improbable, when it is con-
fidered, that thefe birds are of a hardy na-
ture, and the flight not io far as is generally
imagined.
In the woods are various kinds of wild
beafts ; fuch as bears, wolves, lynxes, fe-
veral forts of foxes, fquirrels, ermins, fa-
bles, martins, and rofio- macks, called feel-
frefs by the Germans. The furs are better
of their kinds than thofe of any other
country. The ermins commonly burrow-
in
I 7 i9- TO P E K I N. 227
in the open fields, and are caught in traps
baited with a bit of flefh ; this is done on-
ly in the winter, when they are altogether
white, and the fur mod valuable. In fum-
mer moft of thefe animals turn brown,
when they are not killed, becaufe, at this
feafon, the fur is of little ufe. There are
alfo ottars in the rivers and lakes, whofe
fkins yield a confiderable profit. Indeed,
furs of all forts, in this country, are very
profitable. At prefent, few fables are caught
in this neighbourhood ; it is faid they fly
from fmoke, which, perhaps, is partly true;
yet I am apt to believe, that thefe poor a-
nimals are chafed away towards the north,
to the wild woods, on account of the high
value of their (kins.
The woods of Siberia abound alfo with
venifon of feveral forts ; as elk, rain- deer,
roe-buck, together with an incredible num-
ber of hares, which change their colour,
from brown in fummer to white in winter.
The hares are generally caught by the
country people in toils, more on account
of
228 A JOURNEY 1719.
of their {kins than their ficfli, of which
they make but little ufe. The fkins are
bought by the merchants, and fent, in great
quantities to St Peterfburgh, and other
ports; in order to be exported to England,
Holland, and other countries, where they
are chiefly manufactured into hats.
Having defcribed the land animals, I
fhall now give fome account of the fifh.
In my opinion, there are few countries in
the world fo well watered, with fine navi-
gable rivers and lakes, as Siberia ; and few
rivers and lakes produce greater quantities,
or more variety, of excellent frefh water
fifh, than thofe in this country. For, be-
fides fturgeon, white- fifh, fterlet, and o-
thers, to be found in the Volga, and the
rivers in Ruflia, there are feveral kinds pe-
culiar to this part of the world ; particu-
larly the n^uchloon, about the fize of a
large carp, and much efteemed by perfons
of .delicate tafte.
Southward from Tcbolfky the foil is
fruitful, producing abundance of wheat,
rye,
1719. TO P E K I N. 229
rye, barley, oats, and other grain. The
cattle alfo are very numerous, and in win-
ter are fed with hay. In a word, provi-
fions of all kinds are extremely reafonable.
From what I have faid, it will appear, that
Tobolfky is by no means fuch a difagreea-
ble place as is generally imagined. What-
ever the opinions of mankind may be, it
is the bufmefs of a tnaveller to defcribe pla-
ces and things without prejudice or partia-
lity, and exhibit them fairiy as they really
appear. This principle it fhall be my ftudy
to keep always in view.
Captain Tabar, a Swedifh officer, was at
this time writing a hiftory of Siberia. He
was a gentleman very capable for fuch a
performance ; and, if it fhall ever be pu-
blifhed, it cannot fail of giving great fatis-
faction to the curious.
Before I leave Tobolfky, it will not be
improper to give a fhort account of the fa-
mous river Irtiih, that paries this place. It
continues its courfe a little to the eaft-
ward of the north, in a ftrong but fmooth
current.
230 A JOURNEY 1719.
current, vifiting feveral fmall towns and
villages, and receiving many lefler ftreams,
and a large river called Konda, running
eaftward, till it difcharges itfelf into the
Oby, at a town called Samarioffky-yamm,
about fix hundred verft below Tobolfky.
The Irtifh takes its rife from a great
lake, named Korzan, in a mountainous
country, about fifteen hundred verft to the
fouthward of Tobolfky. The country a-
bout this lake is inhabited by the Black
Kalmucks, a mighty and numerous people,
governed by a Prince called Kontayfha.
From thefe the Kalmucks on the Volga are
defcended. After the Irtifh hath run for
many miles through a hilly country cover-
ed with wood, it pafles through a fine fruit-
ful plain, inhabited by the Kalmucks, till it
comes to a houfe called Sedmy-palaty, or
the Sev^n Rooms, fituated to the right in
coming down the river. It is very furpri-
fmg to find fuch a regular edifice in the mid-
dle of a defert. Some of the Tartars fay
it was built by Tamerlane, called by the
Tartars
! 7 i9- TO P E K I N. 231
Tartars Temyr-ack-fack, or Lame-temyr ;
others by Gingeez-chan. The building,
according to the beft information I could
obtain, is of brick or ftone, well finifhed,
and continues dill entire. It confifts of
feven apartments under one roof, from
whence it has the name of the Seven Pa-
laces. Several of thefe rooms are rilled
with fcrolls of glazed paper, fairly written,
and many of them in gilt characters. Some
of the fcrolls are black, but the greateft
part white. The language in which they
are written is that of the Tongufts, or Kal-
mucks. While I was at Tobolfky, I met
with a foldier in the ftreet with a bundle
of thefe papers in his hand : He afked me
to buy them ; which I did for a fmall fum.
I kept them till my arrival in England,
when 1 diftri'outed them among my friends;
particularly to that learned antiquarian Sir
Hans Sloane, who valued them at a high
rate, and gave them a place in his celebra-
ted mufeum.
Two
s 3 * AJOURNEY
Two of thefe fcrolls were fent, by order
of the Emperor Peter the Firft, to the
Royal Academy at Paris. The Academy
returned a tranflation, which I faw in the
rarity-chamber at St Peterfburgh. One of
them contained a commiffion to a lama or
prieft ; and the other a form of prayer to
the Deity. Whether this interpretation
may be depended on, I fhall not determine.
The Tartars efteem them all facred writings,
as appears from the care they take to pre-
ferve them. Perhaps they may contain
fome curious pieces of antiquity, particu-
larly of ancient hiftory. Above the Sed-
my-palaty, towards the fource of the Ir-
tifli, upon the hills and valleys, grows the
beft rhubarb in the world, without the leaft
culture.
Several days journey from the Palaces,
down the Irtifh, on the weftern bank,
ftands an old tower named Kalbazinfha-
bafhna, or the tower of Kalbazin. Below
this is the lake Yamifhoff, to the right,
where the Ruffians have built a fmall fort,
for
1719. TO P E K I N. -233
for the conveniency of making and gather-
ing fait from that lake, great quantities
whereof are made by the fun ; it is brought
in barks down the river to Tobolfky,
and other places. This fort created fome
jealoufy to the Kontayfha ; he fent an am-
baffador to the governour of Siberia, re-
quefting to have it demolifhed ; but this
demand not being granted, the difference
came to an open rupture, the event of which
time muft difcover.
Defcending farther, you meet with ano-
ther fettlement of the Ruffians, called She-
lezinfky, from a rivulet of that name in
its neighbourhood. A little below Shele-
zinfky ftands Omufka, a confiderable town
which alfo derives its name from a river.
Both thefe places are fituated on the eaft-
ern bank of the Irtifh. You now pafs
fome inconfiderable places before you ar-
rive at Tara, a little town fituated on the
weftern bank, on the road leading from
Toboliky to Totnfky, through a country
VOL. I. G called
234 A JOURNEY 1719=.
called Baraba, of which I fhall give fome
account as we proceed to the eaft.
Between Tara and Tobolfky are a few
fmall towns, and many villages, inhabited
by Mahometan Tartars. And the country
abounds with corn, cattle, and fine paftu-
rage.
I have now pointed out the courfe of
the Irtilh till it reaches Tobolfky, and from
thence till it . empties itfelf into the river
Oby. I have nothing further to remark
concerning Tobolfky and the country a-
round it, and fhould therefore now purfue
our journey to the eaftward ; but, before
I leave this place, I imagine it will not be
improper to fubjoin a few more particulars
relative to the Kontayfha, Prince of the
Kalmucks, whom I formerly mentioned.
I am the more inclined to do this, as I can
entirely depend on my intelligence, having
procured it from perfons who have been in
that country, and feen this Prince ; but
particularly from an ingenious and pene-
trating gentleman, who fills a public office
in
1719- TO P E K I N.
in this place, and was employed in feveral
meilages to him from the late governour of
Siberia.
The territories of this Prince are bound-
ed by three of the moft potent empires in
the world ; on the north by Ruffia, by
China on the earl, and by the country of
the Great Mogul to the fouth. From the
two firft he is feparated by defert plains,
and from the third by almoft impaffable
mountains. To the fouth-weft his fron-
tiers reach near to Bucharia. The Kon-
tayfha is a very powerful Prince, and able
to bring into the field, at a fhort warning,
an hundred thoufand horfemen, who are all
of them able-bodied men, well mounted,
and armed with bows and arrows, lances and
fabres. This is a greater number of horle
than any Prince that I know can inufter,
except his Ruffian Majefty, and the Em-
peror of China. Thefe Tartars live in tents
all the year, removing from place to place,
as called by neceffity or inclination. This
is the moft ancient and pleafant manner of
life.
236 A JOURNEY 1719.
life. It is entertaining to hear them com-
miferate thofe who are confined to one
place of abode, and obliged to fupport them*
felves by labour, which they reckon the
greateft flavery.
The Kontayfha has always fome thou-
fands of his fubjecls encamped near him-
felf, who treat him with great veneration
and refped. And, in juftice to him, it muft
be confefled, that he is as attentive to the
imerefts of his people ; and as affiduous in
the adminiftration of juftice, in particular,
as if they were his own children.
The Kalmucks are not fuch favage peo-
ple as they are generally reprefented ; for
I am informed, a perfon may travel among
them with greater fafety, both to his per-
fon and effects, than in many other coun-
tries.
The Kontayfha received the deputies
from the governour of Siberia, like ambaf-
fadors from foreign Princes, and treated
them accordingly. 'This flicws vvh ,t high
refpedl thefe Eaflern Princes entertain for
his
1719. TO P E K I N. 237
his Czarifli Majefty, when the governour
of Siberia is regarded as a fovereign. The
ceremony on thefe occafions was as follows.
The deputy with his fervants were ad-
mitted into the tent, where the Kontayfha
fat with his queen and feveral children a-
bout him. He defired all of them to fit
down on carpets or mats ; for the Kal-
mucks, like moft Afiatics, ufe no chairs.
They were entertained with tea before din-
ner ; and, after it, the Kontaylha difmifled
the deputy in a friendly manner, telling
him, he would fend for him next day to
receive an anfwer to the governour's letter,
which he punctually performed. This
anfwer was exprefled in very plain and
concife terms. Thefe Tartars in general
write with brevity and perfpicuity. I have
feen feveral of their letters tranflated, which
pleafed me extremely, as they contained
no tedious preambles, nor difgui'Ung repe-
titions, which ferve only to perplex the
reader.
The
238 A JOURNEY 1719.
The Emperor of China was fome time
ago engaged in a war with the Kontayfha,
about fome frontier towns, of which the
latter took pofleffion, and maintained his
claim with a ftrong army. The Emperor
fent againft him an army of three hundred
thoufand men, under the command of his
fourteenth fon, who is reckoned the beft
general of all his children. Notwithftan-
ding their fuperiority in numbers, the Kon-
tayfha defeated the Chinefe in feveral ac-
tions. The Emperor, at laft, thought it
beft to accommodate the difference, and a
peace was concluded, to the fatisfadion of
both parties.
It muft be obferved, that the Chinefe,
being obliged to undertake a long and dif-
ficult march, through a defert and barren
country, lying weftward of the long wall,
being alfo incumbered with artillery and
heavy carriages, containing provifions for
the whole army during their march, had
their force greatly diminifhed before they
reached the enemy. The Kontayfha, on
the
1719- T P E K I. N. 239
the other hand, having intelligence of the
great army coming againft him, waited pa-
tiently on his own frontiers till the enemy
was within a few days march of his camp,
when he fent out detachments of light
horfe, to fet fire to the grafs, and lay wafte
the country. He alfo diftracled them, day
and night, with repeated alarms, which,
together with want of provifions, obliged
them to retire with confiderable lofs.
This method of carrying on war, by
wafting the country, is very ancient among
the Tartars, and pra&ifed by all of them
from the Danube eaftward. This circum-
ftance renders them a dreadful enemy to
regular troops, who muft thereby b? de-
prived of all fubfiftence, while the Tartars,
having always many fpare horfes to kill and
eat, are at no lofs for provifions.
I have only to add, that the Kontayflia
muft be the fame prince who, in our Eu-
ropean maps, is generally cal'ed the Great
Cham of Tartary. As no Europeans tra-
vel through that country, thefe maps muft
be
240 A JOURNEY i 720 .
be very erroneous. It is, however, to be
expected, that the Ruffians will in time
make a more complete difcovery of the
eaftern parts of Afia.
Our baggage did not arrive at ToboHky
till the 23d of December. The people re-
frefhed themfelves till the 27th, when they
again fet out, taking the road along the Ir-
tifh to Tara. The ambaffador and his re-
tinue remained, to pafs the reft of the holi-
days.
January 9th, 1720, we proceeded to-
wards Tara. We pafled through many
Tartar villages, and at night lodged in one
of their little huts, and warmed ourfelves
at a good fire on the hearth. Thefe houfea
confift generally of one or two rooms, ac-
cording to the ability of the landlord. Near
to the hearth is fixed an iron-kettle, to
drefs the victuals. In one end of the a-
paitment is placed a bench, about eighteen
inches high, and fix feet broad, covered
with mats, or fkins of wild beafts, upon
which
1720. TO P K I N. 241
which all the family fit by day, and fleerj
in the night. The walls are built of wood
and mofs, confifting of large beams, laid
one above another, with a layer of mofs
between every two beams. All the roofs
I
are raifed. A fquare hole is cut out for a
window, and, to fupply the want of glafsj
a piece of ice is formed to fit the place ex-
actly, which lets in a good light. Two or
three pieces will laft the whole winter;
Thefe Tartars are very neat and cleanly,
both in their perfons and houfes. They
life no ftoves, as the Ruffians do. Near
the houfe there is commonly a fhade fof
the cattle.
We continued our journey along the
banks of the Irtim, having the river to th6
right or left, as the road lay from one Tar-
tar village to another.
The i jth, we reached Tara, a fmall
town, reckoned about five hundred verft
from Tobolfky. In all this road we did
not meet with a Ruffian village, except a
VOL. I. H h fmall
242 A JOURNEY 1720.
fmall one near Tara. The country abounds
with woods, corn-fields, and fine pafturage,
which appeared fufficiently from the quan-
tities of hay, and the good condition of the
cattle, though the face of the country was
covered with deep fnow. We found the
air at Tara much milder than at any place
fmce we left Kazan.
Tara is fituated on the Irtifh, and forti-
fied with a deep ditch, ftrong palifades, and
wooden towers, fufficient to defend it a-
gainft the fudden attacks of the Tartars,
called KofTatlhy- orda, who inhabit weft-
ward of the Irtifli, and are very trouble-
fome neighbours.
Here we laid in provifions for our jour-
ney over the Baraba, which fignifies, in the
Tartar language, a marfhy plain. Its in-
habitants are a mixture of different Tartar
tribes, called Barabintzy, from the name of
the country in which they live. They are a
poor milerable people, being treated as fub-
jects both by the Emperor and the Contay-
fha,
1720. TO P E K I N. 243
fha, and obliged to pay a tribute, in furs
and {kins of wild beads to each. They
have no grain nor cattle of any kind,
except a few rain-deer, and fubfift by hunt-
ing and fifhing. What fifh they confume
not in the fummer are dried and fmoked
for their winter provifions. They are part-
]y of the Mahometan, and partly of the
Kalmuck religion ; but this difference cau-
fes no difputes.
It is generally reckoned, that more rob-
beries are committed in Baraba than in
any country on the road to China ; not
by the natives, for they are very honeft and
hofpitable, but by the Kalmucks, who come
to collect tribute for the Kontay(ha, who
fometimes pick up travellers, and carry
them off, with all their effects. It was faid,
that a ftrong party of them, having intel-
ligence that the ambafiador was to pafs
that way, waited to intercept him ; on
which account, he took thirty dragoons
and fome Coflacks, from the garrifon of
Tobolfky, to efcort him to Tomfky ; which
was
1244 A JOURNEY
was a fufficient guard againft any robbers
who might attack us ; and he knew the
Kontayfha was too polite a prince to au-
thorife his fubjeds to moleft any foreign
minifter who had done him no injury, not-
withftanding the differences that fubfifted
between him and his Gzarifh Majefty.
Our baggage having waited at Tara till
our arrival, we left that place on the i8th ;
and next day came to a large Ruffian vil-
lage, fixty verft from Tara, and the laft in-
habited by Ruffians, till you pafs the Bara-
ba, and come to the river Oby.
In the places through which we pafTed,
the ambafTador fent for all the hunters and
fportfmen, that he might inquire what
kinds of game and wild beafts were in
! their neighbourhood. Hunting is the em-
ployment of moft of the young fellows in
this country, and is very profitable, as they
fell the furs to great advantage. We found
that this place produced great plenty, both
of game and wild beafts, but few fables. In
the fpring, a number of elks and flags come
hither.
TO P E K I N.
hither, from the fouth ; many of which
are killed by the inhabitants, both .on Ac-
count of their flefh and their hides. What
of the flefh is not confumed frefh, they fait.
The hides are very large, and are drefled
into excellent buff. The huntfinan, having
found the track of a flag upon the fnow,
purfues it upon his fnow fhoes, with his
bow and arrows, and little dog, till the ani-
mal is quite fatigued ; for, the fnow on the
furface being melted by the heat of the
fun, and congealed at night by the froft,
but not ftrong enough to bear the weight
of fuch an animal, he finks deep at every
ftep, and the fharp ice cuts his ancles, and
lames him ; fo that he becomes an eafy
prey to the hunter.
One of thefe hunters told me the follow-
ing ftory, which was confirmed by feveral
of his neighbours : That, in the year 1713,
in the month of March, being out a hunt-
ing, he difcovered the tradi of a flag, which
he puifued ; at overtaking the animal, he
was fomewhat ftartlecl, on obferving it had
only
246 A JOURNEY 1720;
only one horn, ftuck in the middle of its
forehead. Being near this village, he drove
it home, and fhowed it, to the great admi-
ration of the fpectators. He afterwards
killed it, and eat the flefh, and fold the
horn to a comb- maker in the town of Ta-
ra for ten alteens, about fifteen pence Ster-
ling. I inquired carefully about the fhape
and fize of this unicorn, as I fhall call it,
and was told it exactly refembled a flag.
The horn was of a brownifh colour, about
one archeen, or twenty-eight inches long,
and twifted from the root till within a fin-
ger's length of the top, where it was divi-
ded, like a fork, into two points very
fharp.
The 1 9th, we entered the Baraba, and
continued travelling through it for ten
days, when we came to a large Ruffian vil-
lage called Tzaufky Oftroguc, from a ri-
vulet of that name, which difcharges itfelf
into the Oby, a little diftance eaftward
from this place. Here is a fmall fort, fur-
Bounded with a ditch and pallifades, mount-
ed
1720. TO P E K I N. 247
ed with a few cannon, and garrifoned by
fome militia of the country, in order to
prevent the incurfions of the Kalmucks.
"We ftaid a day at this place, to refrefh
ourfelves, and having changed horfes, pro-
ceeded towards Tomfky.
Baraba is really what its name fignifies,
an extenflve marfhy plain. It is generally
full of lakes, and marfhy grounds, over-
grown with tall woods of afpin, alder, wil-
lows, and other aquatics ; particularly many
large birch-trees, having their bark as white
and fmooth as paper. The lakes abound
with various kinds of fifties, fuch as pikes,
perches, breams, eels, and particularly a
fim called karrafs, of an uncommon big-
nefs, and very fat. Thefe the inhabitants
dry, in fummer, for winter provifions,
which are all the food to be found among
them. I have eat of it often, and thought
it not difagreeable. In winter, they ufe
melted fnow for water. They are very
hofpitable ; and defire nothing, in return
of
64* A JOURNEY 1720*
of their civilities, but a little tobacco to
fmoke^ and a dram of brandy, of which
they are very fond. The drefs, both of
men and women, confifts of long coats of
flieep-ikins, which they get from the Ruf-
fians and Kalmucks, in exchange for more
valuable furs. As they wear no other ap-
parel, nor even fhirts, they are very nafty*
Their fiuts are moft miferable habitations,
and funk about one-half under ground.
We were glad, however, to find them, as a
baiting place, in fuch a cold feafon.
The Barabintzy, like moft of the ancient
natives of Siberia, have many conjurers a-
mong them, whom they call Shamans, and
fometimes priefts. Many of The female
fex alfo alTume this character. The ma-
mans are held in great efteem by the peo-
ple ; they pretend to correfpondence with
the fhaytan, or devil ; by whom, they fay*
they are informed of all pad and future e-
vents, at any diftance of time or place.
Our ambaflador refolved to inquire ftridtly
into
1720.
TO P E K I N.
into the truth of many ftrange ftories, ge-
nerally believed, concerning the fhamans,
and fent for alb of fame in that way in the
places through which we pafled.
In Baraba, we went to vifit a famous
woman of this character. When we en-
tered her houfe, fhe continued bufy about
her domeftic affairs, without almoft taking
any notice of her guefts. However, after
fhe had fmoked a pipe of tobacco, and
drunk a dram of brandy, fhe began to be
more cheerful. Our people afked her fome
trifling questions about their friends ; but
fhe pretended to be quite ignorant, till fhe
got more tobacco, and fome inconfiderable
prefents, when fhe v began to collecl: her
conjuring tools. Firft, fhe brought the
fhaytan ; which is nothing but a piece of
wood, wherein is cut fomething refembling
a human head, adorned with many filk and
woollen rags, of various colours ; then a
fmall drum, about a foot diameter, to which
were fixed many brafs and iron rings, and
VOL. I. I i hung
A JOURNEY 1720,
hung round alfo with rags. She now be-
gan a difmal tune, keeping time with the
drum, which fhe beat with a flick for that
purpofe. Several of her neighbours, whom
fhe had previously called to her afliftance,
joined in the chorus. During this fcene,
which lafted about a quarter of an hour,
{he kept the fhaytan, or image, clofe by
herfelf, ftuck up in a corner. The charm
being now finifhed, fhe defired us to put
our queftions. Her anfwers were deliver-
ed very artfully, and with as much obfcu-
rity and ambiguity, as they could have
been given by any oracle. She was a
young woman, and very handfome.
On the 29th of January, we reached the
Oby, which we crofied on the ice, and
entered a country pretty well inhabited
by Ruffians, where we found provifions,
and frefh horfes, as often as we wanted
them. The country is generally covered
with woods, except about the villages,
where are fine corn-fields, and good paf-
ture grounds. Our courfe lay a little tq
the
t72b. T O P E K I N. 251
the northward of the eaft of from Tzaufky
Oftrogue.
February 4th, we arrived fafe at the
town of Tomfky, fo called from the noble
river Tomm, upon the eaftern bank of
which it ftands.
CHAP,
A JOURNEY 1720,
CHAP. III.
Occurrences at Tomjky ; obfervatlons
on the T%ulimm Tartars^ &c.
and journey continued to Elimfky.
THE citadel of Tomfky is fituated on
an eminence, and contains the com-
mandant's houfe, public offices, and bar-
racks for the garrifon. The fortifications,
like moft others in this country, are of
wood. The town (lands under the hill,
along the banks of the river Tomm. The
country about this place is pleafant and
fruitful. From the top of the hill you
have a very extenfive view every way, ex-
cept
I 7 20. TO P E K I N. 253
cept to the fouth, where it is interrupted
by hills. Beyond thefe hills there is a
large, dry, and open plain, which ftretches
a great way fouthward.
About eight or ten days journey from
Tomfky, in this plain, are found many
tombs, and burying places of ancient he-
roes, who, in all probability, fell in battle.
Thefe tombs are eafily diftinguiftied by the
mounds of earth and ftones raifed upon
them. When, or by whom thefe battles
were fought, fo far to the -northward, is
uncertain. 1 was informed by the Tartars
in the Baraba, .that Tamerlane, or Timyr-
ack-fack, as they call him, had many en-
gagements in that country with the Kal-
mucks, whom he in vain endeavoured to
conquer. Many perfons go from Tomfky
and other parts every fummer to thefe
graves, which they dig up, and find, among
the afties of the dead, confiderable quanti-
ties of gold, filver, brafs, and fome preci-
ous ftones ; but particularly hilts of fwords
and armour. They find alfo ornaments of
faddles
AJOURNEY ,72-.
faddles and bridles, and other trappings for
horfes ; and even the bones of horfes, and
fometimes thofe of elephants. Whence it
appears, that when any general or perfon
of diftin&ion was interred, all his arms, his
favourite horfe and fervant, were buried
with him in the fame grave : This cuftom
prevails to this day among the Kalmucks
and other Tartars, and feems to be of great
antiquity. It appears from the number of
graves, that many thoufands muft have
fallen on thefe plains ; for the people have
continued to dig for fuch treafure many
years* and ftill find it unexhaufted. They
are fometimes indeed interrupted, and rob-
bed of all their booty, by parties of the
Kalmucks, who abhor the diflurbing the
afhes of the dead.
I have feen feveral pieces of armour,
and other curiofities, that were dug out of
thefe tombs, particularly an armed man on
horfeback, caft in brafs, of no mean defign
nor workmanfhip ; alfo figures of deer,
caft in pure gold, which were fplit through
the
TO P E K I N. 255
the middle, and had fome fmali holes in
them, as intended for ornaments to a qui-
ver, or the furniture of a horfe.
While we were at Tomfky, one of thefe
grave-diggers told me, that once they light-
ed on an arched vault, where they found
the remains of a man, with his bow, ar-
rows, lance, and other arms, lying together
on a filver table. On touching the body
it fell to duft. The value of the table and
arms was very confiderable.
The country about the fource of the ri-
ver Tomm, near which thefe tombs are, is
very fruitful and pleafant. At the fource
of the Tomm the Ruffians have a fmall
town called Kuznetfky. This river is
formed by the Kondoma, and many lefler
rivers ; all which run to the north.
In the* hills above Kuznetfky, there had
lately been difcovered rich mines of copper,
and fome of filver ; which, fince I was in
this country, have been greatly improved.
On the hills, and in the woods near this
place, are many forts of wild beafts, parti-
cularly
A JOURNEY 1720.
cularly the urus, or uhr-ox, one of the
fierceft animals the world produces, and
exceeding, in fize and ftrength, all the
horned fpecies. Their force and agility is
fuch, that no wolf, bear, nor tiger, dare to
engage with them. Thefe animals are
found in the woods o/ Poland, and fome
other parts of Europe. As they are well
known I need not defcribe them.
In the fame woods is found another fpe-
cies of oxen, called bubul by the Tartars ;
it is, not fo big as the urus ; its body and
limbs are very handfome ; it has a high
fhoulder and a flowing tail, with long hail-
growing from the rump to the extremity,
like that of a horfe. Thofe I faw wer*e
tame, and as tractable as other cattle. Here
are alfo wild affes. I have feen many of
their {kins. They have, in all refpecls, the
head, tail, and hoofs of an ordinary afs ;
but their hair is waved, white and brown,
like that of a tiger.
There is, befides, a number of wild hor-
fes, of a chefnut- colour, which cannot be
tamed,
1720. TO P E K I N. 257
tamed, though they are catched when foals*
Thefe horfes differ nothing from the com-
mon kind in fhape, but are the moft watch-
ful creatures alive. One of them waits al-
ways on the heights to give warning to
the reft, and, upon the leaft approach of
danger, runs to the herd, making all the
noife it can ; upon which all of them fly-
away, like fo many deer. The ftallion
drives up the rear, neighing, biting and
kicking thofe who do not run faft enough.
Notwithftanding this wonderful fagacity,
thefe animals are often furprifed by the
Kalmucks, who ride in among them, well
mounted on fwift horfes, and kill them,
with broad lances. Their flefh they efteern
excellent food, and ufe their fkins to fleep
upon inftead of couches. Thefe are the
animals peculiar to this part of the coun-
try ; and, befides thefe, there are many-
more common to this place with the reft
of Siberia.
The river Tomm, having parted Kuz-
netfky, Tomfky, and feveral other towns
VOL. I. K k of
258 A JOURNEY 1729-
of lefs note, empties itfelf into the Oby, at
a place called Nikolfky, about an hundred
yerft below Torafky, in a country over-
grown with thick woods. Here the Tomm
lofes its name, and makes a great addition
to the Oby, which now commences a
mighty ftream.
The Tomm abounds with variety of fine
fifh ; fuch as fturgeon, fterlet, muchfoon,
and the largeft and beft quabs, called ia
French guion, that I have any where ieen.
The method of catching thefe fiih is by
planting pales acrofs the river, in which
there is left one narrow opening for the
fifties to pafs through. Above this open-
ing a hole is cut in the ice, and near it is
placed a fire upon fome flones laid for that
purpofe. The fiih, on feeing the light of
the fire, flops a moment in its pafiage ;
and, at this inftant, the fifherman flrikes it
with a fpear through the hole in the ice.
This exercife requires great quicknefs, for
the fifh is gone in a trice. I killed feveral
of them myfelf.
Thus,
. f O P E K I N. 259
Thus, having made a fhort excurfion up
and down the Tomm, and given a brief
defcription of the country adjacent, I re-
turn again to Tomfky.
Tomfky is a good market for furs of all
forts ; but particularly of fables, black and
red foxes, ermins, and fquirrels. The
fquirrels called Teleutfky, from the name
of the diftrid: where they are caught, are
reckoned the beft of that fpecies. They
have a blackifli ftripe down their back.
Befides the common fquirrel, there is
another fpecies found here called the flying
fquiirel. There is little peculiar in its
fhape or fize, only it has, at the upper joint
! of the thigh of the fore-leg, a fmall mem-
brane, ftretching to the fhoulder, fome-
what like the wing of a bat, which it ex-
tends at pleafure, and is thereby enabled to
fpring much farther, from tree to tree,
than it could do without the help of thefe
wings. Both the ermins and fquirrels are:
caught only in winter, becaufe in fummer
their 1
A JOURNEY 1720.
their fur is quite brown, fhort, and of little
ufe.
We waited fome days at Tomfky for
the arrival of our baggage. Here we found
feveral Swedifh officers, who had good
quarters in a plentiful though diftant
place. After our people had refrefhed
themfelves for two days, they fet out again
on the road to Yenifeyfky.
During our abode in Tomfky, we di-
verted ourfelves with fifhing and hunting.
We were prefent alfo at feveral concerts of
mufic, performed by the Swedifh officers,
at Mr Kofloff's, commandant of the place.
Thefe gentlemen were not lefs expert in
touching their inftruments than their com-
panions at Tobolfky. Mr Kofloff is a
good-natured and chearful gentleman, and
treats thefe officers with great humanity.
They had along with them a Swedifh par-
fon, Mr Veftadius, a man of genius and
learning.
The Qth, we were entertained at the
commandant's, where were affembled fome
hundreds
TO P E K I N.
hundreds of his CofTacks, or light horfe,
armed with bows and arrows. After go-
ing through their ufual exercife, they
fhowed their dexterity in (hooting on
horfeback at full fpeed. They ereded
a pole for a mark in an open field, and
pafling it, at full gallop, let fly their ar-
rows, and foon fplit it all to fhivers.
The 1 2th, about midnight, we went into
our fledges, and fet out on our journey to-
wards Yenifeyfky. For the two following
days, we had tolerably good roads, lying
through a pretty fine country, inhabited by
Ruffians. The villages are but thinly feat-
tered, yet fufficiently near one another to
afford provifions and frefh horfes.
On the 1 4th, we reached a large navi-
gable river, called Tzulimm. We went up
this river upon the ice. We met with nei-
ther houfe nor inhabitant for the fpace of
fix days. We could get no frefh horfes,
and were obliged to carry both provifions
and forage along with us, which made this
part of the road very tedious. During all
this
262 A JOURNEY 1726.
this time, we had no where to warm our-
felves, or drefs our vi'cluals, but in the thick
overgrown woods, which occupy both
fides of the river. There is great plenty
of fallen trees in thefe woods, of which
we made large fires. The trees are chiefly
pitch fir, rifing like a pyramid, with long
fpreading branches hanging to the ground,
which render thele woods almoft impaf-
fable to man or beaft. We frequently fet
fire to the mofs and dried fibres of thefe
nrs. In the fpace of a minute the fire
mounts to the top of the tree, and has a
very pretty effed. The kindling fo many
fires warmed all the air around.
In fummer, the banks of this river are
inhabited by a tribe of Tartars, called by
the Ruffians Tzulimmzy, from the name
of the river, who live by fiihing and hunt-
ing. We found feveral of their empty
huts as we went along. In autumn, thefe
people retire from this inhofpitable place
towards the fouth, near to towns and vil-
lages, where they can find fubfiftence.
The
I 7 2o.
TO P E K I N.
The 2Oth, we arrived at a Ruffian vil-
lage, called Meletfky Oftrogue, where we
{laid a day to refrefh ourielves and horfes.
In the neighbourhood of this place, we
found many huts of the Tzulimm Tartars,
who feem to be a different race from all
of that name i have yet mentioned. Their
complexion indeed is fwarthy, like that of
moft of the other defcendents of the ancient
natives of Siberia ; but 1 have feen many
of them having white fpots on their {kins,
from head to foot, of various figures and
iizes. Many imagine thefe fpots natural
to the people ; but J. am rather inclined to
believe they proceed from their conftant
diet of ftm and other animal food, without
bread. This, of courfe, creates a fcorbutic
habit of body, which often breaks out in
infants; and the fears falling off, leave that
part of the fkin as if it had been fcalded,
which never recovers its natural colour. I
have however feen feveral children with
fpots, who feemed healthy.
Tfce
264 A JOURNEY 1720.
The Tzulimms, like other Tartars, live
in huts half-funk under ground. They
have a fire in the middle, with a hole at
the top to let out the fmoke, and benches
round the fire, to fit or lie upon. This
feems to be the common method of living
among all the northern nations, from Lap-
land, eaftward, to the Japanefe ocean.
The Tzulimms fpeak a barbarous lan-
guage, compofed of words from many o-
ther languages. Some of our people, who
fpoke Turkilh, told me, they had many
Arabic words, which they underftood.
They are poor, miferable, and ignorant
heathens. The archbimop of Tobolfky,
in perfon, came lately hither, and baptifed
fome hundreds of them, who were inclined
to embrace the Chriftian faith. As they
are a well difpofed and harmlefs people,
probably in a fhort time they may be all
converted.
The river Tzulimm has its fource about
three hundred verft above Meletfky Oftro-
gue ; from this place it continues its courfe
to
1720. TO P E K I N. 265
to the northward, till it meets with the
river Oby, at a place called Shabannfky
Oftrogue. Oftrogue, in the Ruffian lan-
guage, fignifies a ftrong pallifade, inclofing
a certain piece of ground. On the firft fet-
tlements made by the Ruffians in ;hefe
parts, fuch inclofures were neceiTary to pre-
vent any furprife from the inhabitants.
The 2 1 ft, early in the morning, we left
Meletfky, and travelled through thick
woods, along narrow roads. Next day,
we came to a fmall Ruffian village, called
Melay-keat ; where we found our baggage,
for the firft time fince we quitted Tomfky.
Near this place the river Keat has its fource;
and runs towards the weft, till it meets with
the Oby. Having changed horfes at Me-
lay-keat, we left our baggage, and proceed-
ed on our journey.
On the evening of the 22d, we came to
a zimovey, where we halted a little, to re-
frefh ourfelves and bait our horfes. A zi-
movey is a houfe or two, built in a place at
a great diftance from any town or village,
VOL. I. L 1 for
266 A JOURNEY 1720.
for the convenience of travellers ; and is a
fort of inn, where you generally find a
warm room, frefh bread, and a wholefome
and agreeable liquor, called quafs, made of
malt, or rye-meal, fteeped and fermented;
with hay and oats, at eafy rates.
From this place we travelled to Beloy, a
large village, where we changed horfes, and
proceeded. From hence to Yenifeyiky the
country is well cultivated. Upon the road
are many Rufs villages, where we got frefh
horfes as often as we pleafed, without halt-
ing ten minutes. Thus we continued tra-
velling, day and night, till we arrived, on
the 23d, at the town of Yenifeyfky, where
we had a friendly reception, and good en-
tertainment, from the commandant, Mr
Becklimimof, whohadcomeibme milesfrom
town to meet his old friend the ambaflador.
Here I found Mr Kanbar Nikititz Aikin-
fiof, with whom I got acquainted at Cazan,
while we wintered there, in the journey to
Perfia. Some crofs accident had been the
occaiion of his corning to this place. He
enjoyed
1720. TO P E K I N. 267
i
enjoyed full liberty to walk about at plea-
fure. He underftood feveral languages,
was well acquainted with hiftory, and a
chearful good natured companion.
Here we pafled the holidays called Maff-
lapitza, or the Carnaval, which is held on
the week before Lent. In the mean time
our carriages arrived, which were defpatch-
ed again as foon as poflible.
The town of Yenifeyfky is pleafantly fi-
tuated in a plain, on the weftern bank of
the river Yenifey, from which the town
takes its name. It is a large and populous
place, fenced with a ditch, pallifades, and
wooden towers. Here is a good market
for furs of all forts ; particularly of the a-
nimals called piefly, which are of two co-
lours, white and dove colour. Thefe crea-
tures are caught far to the northward of
this place. They are nearly of the fhape
and fi2e of a fox ; having a (hort bulhy tail,
and a thick foft downy fur, very light and
warm, which is much efteerned by the great
men in the northern parts of China ; arid,
by
268 A JOURNEY 1720.
by them, made chiefly into cufhions, on
which they fit in winter.
Befides the above, there is here another
creature called rofFomack in Rufs, and feel-
frefs by the Germans ; becaufe they ima-
gine it eats a great deal more in proportion
than other animals. I have feen feve-
ral of them alive. They are very fierce,
and about the fhape and fize of a badger ;
the neck, back, and tail, are black, but a-
bout the belly the hair is of a brownifh co-
lour. The blacker they are the more va-
luable. The (kin being thick, is only ufed
in caps and muffs. Alfo elks, rain- deer,
and flags. The latter retire to the fouth
on the approach of winter, and return in
the fpring. Here are likewife an incredi-
ble number of white hares, which perhaps
I may mention afterwards.
I muft not omit the black foxes, which
are in great abundance about Yenifeyiky.
Their fur is reckoned the moft beautiful
of any kind ; it is even preferred to the
fable, with refped to lightnefs and warm-
nefs.
1726. TO P E K I N. 269
nefs. I faw here one of their fkins valued
at five hundred crowns, and fome of them
far exceed this fum.
Before I leave this place, 1 mall give a
fhort defcription of the courfe of the fa-
mous river Yenifey, according to the beft
information I could procure. It rifes in a
hilly country, at a great diftance fouthward
from this place ; being joined by many
rivers in its courfe, it grows into a mighty
ftream, and is, at Yenifeyiky, full as large
as the Volga. It runs the longeft courfe
of any river on this vaft continent. The
firft town, of any note, in coming down
this river, is Kraflho-yarr, which ftands on
the weftern bank. It is a place of confi-
derable trade, particularly in furs. From
this place, along the banks, are many vil-
lages, till the Yenifey meets the lower
Tongufta, a large river, coming from the
eaft. a few verft above Yenifeviky. Be-
' 4 J
low this place, there are many inconfidera-
ble fettlements, till you come to Manga-
feylky, a town famous for furs, and the
flirine
270 AJOURNEY 1720.
(hrine of an illuftrious faint, called Vafiile
Mangafeyfky, much frequented by the de-
vout people in thefe parts.
Above this place, the Yenifey receives
the Podkamena-tongufta, a- large river,
running from the fouth-eaft ; and at Man-
gafeyfky, it meets another river, called Tu-
rochanfky, coming from the weft. The
Yenifey now continues its courfe, almoft
due north, till it discharges itfelf into the
ocean. This river abounds with variety of
excellent fifh, fuch as I have already men-
tioned, but in lefler quantities.
The 27th, we left Yenifeyfky, and tra-
velled about eight or ten verft along the
fouth bank of the river, when we came to
thick. and tall woods, which obliged us to
leave the land, and march along the river
on the ice, which was very uneven, 1 'his
rougbnefs is caufed by the froft fetting in
about autumn, with a ftrong wefterly wind,
which drives up great cakes of ice upon
one another, in fome places four or five
feet high. If the froft happens to begin
in
TO P E K I N.
in calm weather, the ice is very fmooth,
and eafy for fledges.
The 28th, we proceeded along the Ye-
nifey, meeting fometimes with villages.
The rigour of the cold was much abated,
but the face of winter appeared every
where, without the leaft fign of fpring. At
evening, we entered the river Tongufta,
which we found as rough as the former ;
but, as both the banks were overgrown
with thick woods, we were obliged to keep
along the ice.
Next day, we (till proceeded along the
river, in blowing weather and driving fnow.
The i ft of March, we overtook our bag-
gage, which we pafied ; it being thought
more convenient, both in order to procure
lodging and frefh horfes, that the heavy
carriages mould travel behind.
We continued our journey for feveral
days along the Tongufta. We found, now
and then, little villages, or (ingle houfes,
on the banks. One day, we chanced to
meet a prodigious flock of hares, all as
white
272 A JOURNEY
white as the fnow on which they walked.
I fpeak within compafs, when I fay there
were above five or fix hundred of them.
They were coming down the river, very
deliberately, on a fmall path of their own
making, clofe to the beaten road. As foon
as they faw us, all of them run into the
woods, without feeming much frightened.
I am informed that thefe hares travel to the
fouth, in much greater flocks than this, e-
very fpring, and return in autumn, when
the rivers are frozen, and the fnow falls.
In moft of the villages we found plenty of
this fort of venifon ; the inhabitants, how-
ever, value it but little ; for they catch thefe
hares more on account of their {kins, of
which they make confiderable profits, than
their flefh.
The Tongufy, fo called from the name
of the fiver, who live along its banks, are
the pofterity of the ancient inhabitants of
Siberia, and differ in language, manners,
and drefs, and even in their perfons and
ftature, from all the other tribes of thefe
people
!7*o, TO P E K I N. 273
people I have had occafion to fee. They
have no houfes, where they remain for a-
ny time, but range through the woods, and
along rivers, at pleafure ; and, wherever
they come, they erect a few fpars, incli-
ning to one another at the top ; thefe they
cover with pieces of birchen bark, fewed
together, leaving a hole at the top to let
out the fmoke. The fire is placed in the
middle. They are very civil and tractable,
and like to fmoke tobacco, and drink bran-
dy. About their huts they have generally
a good (lock of rain-deer, in which all their
wealth confifts.
The men are tall and able-bodied, brave,
and very honeft. The women are of a
middle fize, and virtuous. I have feen ma-
ny of the men with oval figures, like
wreaths, on their foreheads and chins ;
and fometimes a figure refembling the
branch of a tree, reaching from the corner
of the eye to the mouth. Thefe are made
in their infancy, by pricking the parts with
a needle, and rubbing them with charcoal,
VOL. I. Mm the
274 AJOURNEY 1720.
the marks whereof remain as long as the
perfon lives. Their complexion is fwarthy.
Their faces are not fo flat as thofe of the
Kalmucks, but their countenances more o-
pen. They are altogether unacquainted
with any kind of literature, and worfhip
the fun and moon. They have many fha-
mans among them, who differ little from
thofe I formerly defcribed. I was told of
others, whofe abilities in fortune-telling far
exceeded thofe of the fhamans at this place,
but they lived far northward. They can-
not bear to fleep in a warm room, but re-
tire to their huts, and lie about the fire, on
ikins of wild beafts. It is furprifing how
thefe creatures can fuffer the very piercing
cold in thefe parts.
The women are drefled in a fur-gown,
reaching below the knee, and tied about
the waift with a girdle. This girdle is a-
bout three inches broad, made of deer's-
Ikin, having the hair curioufly ftitched
down and ornamented ; to which is faften-
ed, at each fide, an iron ring, that ferves to
carry
1720. TO P E K I N. 275
carry a tobacco-pipe, and other trinkets of
fmall value. Their gowns are alfo ftitched
down the breaft, and about the neck. Their
long black hair is plaited, and tied about
their heads, above which they wear a fmall
fur-cap, which is becoming enough. Some
of them have fmall ear-rings. Their feet
are drefled in bufkins, made of deer-fkins,
which reach to the knee, and are tied about
the ancle with a thong of leather.
The drefs of the men is very fimple,and
fit for acYion. It confifts of a fhort jacket,
with narrow fleeves, made of deer's- fkin,
having the fur outward ; troufers and hofe
of the fame kind of {kin, both of one piece,
and tight to the limbs. They have, befides,
a piece of fur, that covers the breaft and
ftomach, which is hung about the neck
with a thong of leather. This, for the
moft part, is neatly ftitched and ornament-
ed by their wives. Round their heads they
have a ruff, made of the tails of fquirrels,
to preferve the tips of the ears from the cold.
There is nothing on the crown, but the
hair
276" A JOURNEY 1720.
hair fmoothed, which hangs in a long plait-
ed lock behind their backs.
Their arms are, a bow, and feveral forts
of arrows, according to the different kinds
of game they intend to hunt. The ar-
rows are carried, in a quiver, on their
backs, and the bow always in their left
hand. Befides thefe, they have a fhort
lance, and a little hatcher. Thus accoutred,
they are not afraid to attack the fierceft
creature in the woods, even the flrongeft
bear ; for they are flout men, and dextrous
archers. In winter, which is the feafon for
hunting wild beafts, they travel on what
are called fnow-fhoes, without which it
would be impoflible to make their way
through the deep fnow. Thefe are made
of a very thin piece of light wood, about
five feet long, and five or fix inches broad,
inclining to a point before, and fquare be-
hind. In the middle is fixed a thong,
through which the feet are put. On thefe
fhoes a peifon may walk fafely over the
deepeft fnpw ; for a man's weight will not
fink
1720, TO P E K I N. 277
fink them above an inch. Thefe, however,
can only be ufed on plains. They have a
different kind for afcending hills, with the
{kins of feals glued to the boards, having
the hair inclined backwards, which pre-
vents the Hiding of the flioes, fo that they
can afcend a hill very eafily ; and, in de-
fcending, they Hide downwards at a great
rate.
The nation of the Tongufy was very
numerous, but is of late much diminished
by the fmall-pox. It is remarkable, that
they knew nothing of this diftemper till
the Ruffians arrived among them. They
are fo much afraid of this difeafe, that, if
any one of a family is feized with it, the
reft immediately make the patient a little
hut, and fet by him fome water and vic-
tuals ; then, packing up every thing, they
march off to the windward, each carrying
an earthen pot, with burning coals in it,
and making a dreadful lamentation as they
go along. They never revifit the fick till
they think the danger paft. If the per-
fon
278 A JOURNEY 1720,
fon dies, they place him on a branch of a
tre,e, to which he is tied with ftrong wythes,
to prevent his falling.
When they go a-hunting into the woods,
they carry with them no provifions, but
depend entirely on what they are to catch.
They eat every animal that comes in their
way, even a bear, fox, or wolf. The fquir-
rek are reckoned delicate food ; but the er-
mins have fuch a ftrong rank tafte and
fmell, that nothing but ftarving can oblige
them to eat their flefh. When a Tongufe
kills an elk or deer, he never moves from
the place till he has eat it up, unlefs he
happens to be near his family ; in which
cafe he carries part of it home. He is ne-
ver at a lofs for fire, having always a tin-
der-box about him. If this fhould happen
to be wanting, he kindles a fire, by rubbing
two pieces of wood againft each other.
They eat nothing raw, but in great extre-
mity.
The fables are not caught in the fame
manner as other animals. The fur is fo
tender,
1720. TO P E K r N. 279
tender, that the leaft mark of an arrow, or
ruffling of the hair, fpoils the fale of the
(kin. In hunting them they only ufe a
little dog and a net. When a hunter finds
the track of a fable upon the fnow, he fol-
lows it perhaps for two or three days, till
the poor animal, quite tired/ takes refuge
in fome tall tree ; for it can climb like a
cat ; the hunter then fpreads his net around
the tree, and makes a fire ; the fable, un-
able to endure the fmoke, immediately de-
fcends, and is caught in the net. I have
been told by fome of thefe hunters, that,
when hard pinched with hunger on fuch
long chaces, they take two thin boards, one
of which they apply to the pit of the fto*
mach, and the other to the back oppofite
to it ; the extremities of thefe boards are
tied with cords, which are drawn tighter by
degrees, and prevent their feeling the cra-
vings of hunger.
Although I have obferved, that the Ton-
gufy, in general, worfhip the fun and
moon, there are many exceptions to this
obfer-
A JOURNEY 1720;
obfervation. I have found intelligent peo-
ple among them, who believed there was a
being fuperior to both fun and moon, and
who created them and all the world.
I fhall only remark farther, that, from all
the accounts I have heard and read of the
natives of Canada, there is no nation in the
world which they fo much referable as the
Tongufians. The diftance between them
is not fo great as is commonly imagined.
The 4th of March, we came to a little
monaftery, called Troytza, dedicated to the
Holy Trinity ; where we found about half
a dozen monks, who gave us an hofpitablc
reception in their cells, and furnimed us
with provifions and frefh horfes. The mo-
naftery ftands upon the north fide of the
river, on a very pleafant though folitary
bank, encompafled with woods, corn-fields,
and good pafturage. Moft of the villages
are on the north fide of the river, as it is
higher than the fouth fide.
The fame day, we proceeded on our jour-
ney along the river* We met with, daily,
great
1720. TO P E K I N. 281
great flocks of hares in their progrefs to the
weftward, and many Tongufians in their
huts. It is to be obferved, that, from this
river northward to the Frozen Ocean, there
are no inhabitants, except a few Tongufi-
ans, on the banks of the great rivers ; the
whole of this moft extenfive country being
overgrown with dark impenetrable woods.
The foil along the banks of this river is
good, and produces wheat, barley, rye, and
oats. The method taken by the inhabi-
tants to deftroy the large fir-trees is, to cut
off a ring of bark from the trunk, about a
foot broad, which prevents the afcending
of the fap, and the tree withers in a few
years. This prepares it for being burnt in
a dry feafon ; by which means the ground
is both cleared of the wood, and manured
by the aflies, without much labour.
The Ruffians obferve, that, where the
fort of fir '; commonly called the Scotch fir,
grows, the ground never fails of producing
corn ; but it is not fo where the pitch, or
any other kind of fir, prevails.
VOL. I. N n Tie
282 A JOURNEY 1720.
The yth, we came to the head of the
Tongufky, which is formed by the conflux
of two other rivers, the Angara, and the
Elimm. The firft iflues from the great
Baykall lake, and runs towards the weft,
till it meets the Tongufky when it lofes
its name. We left the Angara and Ton-
gufky on our right hand, and proceeded a-
long the Elimm, which we found much
fmoother than the Tongufky. The Elimm
is a confiderably large and navigable river.
The banks on the fouth fide are very high,
and covered with rugged rocks, overgrown
with woods ; but, to the north, you meet
with feveral villages, corn-fields, and paf-
turage.
We kept on our courfe up the Elimm, a
little to the northward of the eaft, till the
9th, when we arrived at the town of E-
limfky, fo called from the name of the ri-
ver, which ftands in a narrow valley, on the
fouth fide of the river, encompafled with
high hills, and rocks covered with woods.
This place is but fmall, and is only confi-
derable,
1720* TO P E K I N. 283
derable, as it ftands on the road to the eaf-
tern parts of Siberia ; for travellers to Chi-
na generally take to the fouth-eaft, to-
wards Irkutfky ; and thofe who travel to
Yakutfky and Kamtzatfky, to the north-
eaft.
CHAP.
A JOURNEY 1720;
CHAR IV.
Obfervations on TCakutJky and Kamt-
%atjky, 8SV, yourney continued to
Irkut/ky, and Occurrences there,
AT Elimiky I met with General Kani-
fer. He was adjutant general to
Charles XII. of Sweden, and much efteem-
ed by that great warrior, for his military-
exploits. Kanifer was a native of Cour-
land. He was taken prifoner by the Ruf-
fians in Poland, and fent hither, where he
lived in eafe and folitude, and was regu-
larly vifited by all travellers.
This gentleman had a creature called
kaberda, which was brought to him when
1720. TO P E K I N. 285
a fawn by fotne of the Tongufy. It is the
animal from which the fweet-fmelling drug
called mufk is taken. The mufk grows a-
bout the navel, in form of an excrefcence,
which is cut off, and preferved, when the
creature is killed. There are many of
them in this country ; but the mufk is not
fo ftrong fcented as that which comes from
China, and more fouthern climates. The
general had bred this creature to be very
familiar. He fed at his table with bread
and roots. When dinner was over, it
jumped on the table, and picked up the
crumbs. It followed him about the ftreets
like a dog. I muft confefs it was pleafing
to fee it cut caprioles, and play with chil-
dren like a kid.
The kaberda is a fize lefs than the fal-
low-deer, and its colour darker. It is of a
pretty fhape, having erect horns, without
branches ; is very fwift, and haunts rocks
and mountains of difficult accefs to men or
dogs ; and, when hunted, jumps from cliff
to cliff with incredible celerity, and firm-
nefs
s$6 A JOURNEY 1720;
nefs of foot. The flefh is efteemed better
venifon than any of the deer kind, of lar-
ger fize, whereof there is great variety in
thefe parts/
Before I leave Elimfky, I fliall, as ufualj
give a fhort account of fome of the places
adjacent ; particularly thofe to the north-
eaft, towards the river Lena, and Yakutfky,
according as I have been informed by tra-
vellers, on whofe veracity I could entirely
depend.
The people who travel in winter from
hence to thefe places, generally do it in Ja-
nuary or February. It is a very long and
difficult journey, and which none but Ton*
gufians, or fuch hardy people, have abili-
ties to perform. The Ruffians frequently
finifh it in fix weeks. The common me-
thod is as follows : After travelling a few
days in fledges, when the road becomes
impaflable by horfes, they fet themfelves
on fnow-fhoes, and drag after them what
is called a nart, containing provifions and
other neceflaries, which are as few and
light
1720. TO P E K I N. 287
light as poflible. This nart is a kind of
fledge, about five feet long, and ten inch-
es broad, which a man may eafily draw up-
on the deepeft fnow. At night, they make a
large fire, and lay themfelves down to deep
in thefe narrow fledges. As foon as they
have refreshed themfelves, they again pro-
ceed on their fnow-fhoes, as before. This
manner of travelling continues about the
fpace of ten days, when they come to a
place where they procure dogs to draw
both themfelves and their narts. The dogs
are yoked by pairs, and are more or fewer
in number, according to the weight they
have to draw. Being trained to the work,
they go on with great fpirit, barking all the
way ; and the perfon, who lies in the
fledge, holds a fmall cord to guide the dog
that leads the reft. They are fattened to
the fledge by a foft rope, which is tied a-
bout their middle, and paries through be-
tween their hind legs. I have been fur-
prifed to fee the weight that thefe creatures
are able to draw ; for travellers muft carry
along
A JOURNEY 1720.
along with them provifions, both for them-
felves and the dogs. Thefe ^watchful ani-
mals know the time of fetting out in the
morning, and make a difmal howling, till
they are fed, and purfue their journey.
This way of travelling would not, I believe,
fuit every conftitution ; the very fight of it
fatisfied my curiofity. Thus, however,
thefe people proceed, for near three weeks,
till they arrive at fome villages on the Le-
na, where, leaving the dogs, they procure
horfesj with which they travel to the town
of Yakutfky. This place has its name from
a rivulet, called Yakut, which empties itfelf
into the Lena.
I have been, perhaps, too particular in
defcribing the method of travelling w'th
fnow-fhoes and dogs ; but, as thefe things
are known to few Europeans, I concluded
an account of them would not be difagree-
able. I have feen feveral Swedifh officers
who have travelled to Yakutfky in this
manner. I tried the mow- {hoes myfelf,
and
TO P E K I N. 289
and found them very fatiguing ; but time
and practice make them eafy and familiar.
There is a more agreeable road from E-
limfky to Yakutfky than that I have men-
tioned, which is by water, down the river
Lena ; but this rout will not agree with the
time and circumftances of every traveller.
Thofe who travel fromlrkutfkyby this courfe
go by land to a place called Vercholenfkv
Oftrogue, fituated near the fource of the Le-
na, where they embark, and fall down the
flream. Thofe who go from Elimfky, crofs
the country directly, about two days jour-
ney, to the firft convenient place upon the
Lena, where they procure veflels, and fail
down the river to Yakutfky, or any other
place ; but, in this paflage by water, they
are peftered with numbers of large gnats
and mulkitoes, which leflen the pleafure of
the voyage.
Before I ; proceed to the northward, it
will not be improper to give a fhort de-
fcription of the famous river Lena ; which,
for the length of its courfe, and quantity of
VOL. I. O o water.
I A JOURNEY 1720.
water, may be compared to any of the lar-
geft rivers in the world.
The Lena rifes at a fmall diftance north-
ward from the Baykall lake, and runs to the
north, with a little variation, till it difchar-
ges itfelf into the Northern Ocean. I com-
pute the length of it, from the fource to the
ocean, to be about two thoufand five hun-*
dred Englifh miles, though it is much morei
by common report. It is navigable during
this whole courfe, having no cataracts fo
great as to prevent the paflage of veflels of
confiderable burden, ft receives many great
rivers, moft of which come from the eaft.
It may be eafily imagined, that the Lena
cannot fail of being ftored with various
kinds of excellent fim, when the other ri-
vers in Siberia afford fuch plenty and vari-
ety. The banks are generally overgrown
with tall thick woods, wherein are abun-
dance of game, and wild beafts. The
country, between its fource and the
Baykall lake, is well peopled, abounding
with
1720. TO P E K I N.
with many Rufs villages and corn-fields^
along the banks of the river.
Having formerly mentioned Yakutfky
and Kamtzatfky, I {hall add a few obfer-
vations on thefe two provinces.
The town of Yakutfky, capital of the
province of that name, is fituated on the
weft bank of the river Lena, and governed
by a commandant ; whofe office is reckon-
ed very lucrative, as many fables, and o-
ther valuable furs, are found in that pro-
vince.
The winter here is very long, and the
froft fo violent, that it is never out of the
earth, in the month of June, beyond two
feet and an half below the furface. When
the inhabitants bury their dead three
feet deep, they are laid in frozen earth ;
for the heat of the fun never penetrates a-
bove two feet, or two feet and an half ; fo
that, I am informed, all the dead bodies re-
main in the earth unconfumed, and will do
fo till the day of judgment.
The
292 A JOURNEY 1720.
The town, and many villages in its
neighbourhood, are inhabited by Ruffians,
who have horfes and cows, but no fheep
nor corn. They are plentifully fupplied
with corn from the fouthern parts of the
country, by water-carriage along the Lena.
And, in fummer, they make hay enough to
feed their cattle in winter.
The province of Yakutfky is inhabited
by a numerous tribe of Tartars, by which
name the Ruffians call the whole of the
natives of this country, however they dif-
fer from one another in religion, language,
and manners. Thofe of this province are
named Yakuty. They occupy a great
fpace of territory round this place, efpeci-
ally to the eaft, where they border with
the extenfive province of Kamtzatfky.
The Yakuty differ little from the Ton-
gufians, either in their perfons or way of
life. Their occupation, like that of the o-
ther natives, is fifhing and hunting. They
have flattifti faces, little black eyes, and
long black hair, plaited, and hanging down
their
1720. TO P E K I N. 293
their back*. Many of the men are mark-
ed in the face with charcoal, after the man-
ner of the Tongufians. I have, however,
feen many of thefe people, both men and
women, of good complexions. They of-
ten fell their children to the Ruffians, who
are very fond of them, as they generally
make trufty fervants.
Thefe people, though otherwife humane
and tractable, have among them one very
barbarous cuftom : When any of their
people are infirm through age, or feized
with diftempers reckoned incurable, they
make a fmall hut for the patient, near fome
river, in which they leave him, with fome
provifions, and feldom or never return to
vifit him. On fuch occafions, they have
no regard to father or mother, but fay they
do them a good office in fending them to a
better world. Whereby it appears, that
even thefe rude ignorant people have a
notion of a future ftate.
Under Kamtzatfky I include all that vaft
tra& of land reaching from the river
Amoor,
2 94 AJOURNEY
Amoor, along the fhore of the Eaftern, or
Japanefe ocean, called by the Ruffians
Tikoe More, or the Calm Sea, to the north-
eaft point of the continent. The country
along the fhore is very pleafant and heal-
thy, efpecially to the fouth, where the cli-
mate is temperate. This part of the coun-
try produces grain, and, as I have been in-
formed, even grapes and other fruits. The
inhabitants are very humane and hofpi-
table.
When the Ruffians firft entered this pro-
vince, the Kamtzedans endeavoured to op-
pofe them. For this purpofe they afTem-
bled great numbers of men, armed, after
the fafhion of their country, with bows,
arrows, and Ihort lances, headed with bone,
fharpened at the point. Whence it ap-
pears, that thefe people knew no more the
ufe of iron, than the Mexicans on the arri-
val of the Spaniards in America. Their
multitudes were foon difperfed by a few
Ruffians with fire-arms, which, in thofe
days, had rifled barrels, and a fmall bore,
which
j 7 2o. TO P E K I N. 295
which killed at a great diftance. The poor
Kamtzedans, feeing their people fall with-
out any vifible wound, and aftonifhed with
the fire and noife of the gunpowder, left
the field in the utmoft confternation. Their
difpofitions now were wholly inclined to
peace ; and a few of their chief men were
fent to the Ruffians in order to obtain it-
They proftrated themfelves, in the moft
fubmifiive manner, before the leader of the
party, and begged of him to grant them,
peace ; which he did, on condition of their
paying to his Majefty an annual tribute of
fables, or other furs. This condition they
have punctually performed ever fince.
Many parts of Kamtzatlky are hilly and
mountainous, particularly to the north, and
covered with tall woods. At Ochotfky is
a good harbour, and timber enough to
build a royal navy. There are many great
and fmall rivers that run through the coun-
try, and empty themfelves into the Eaftern
Ocean, among which is a great river called
Anadeer. To the north of this river, to-
wards
A JOURNEY 1720;
wards the ocean, lies an extenfive traft of
land, little known, and inhabited by a
fierce and favage people, called by the Ruf-
fians Anadeertzy, who continue very un-
tra&able.
I have nothing further to add concern-
ing thefe remote provinces, only, I am per-
fuaded, that the iflands of Japan can be at
no great diftance from the fouthern parts
of Kamtzatfky. What confirmed me in
this opinion is, that I faw at St Peterfburgh
a young man, a native of Japan, who, I
believe, is yet alive in the Academy of Sci-
ences at that place. I afked him, by what
accident he was brought fo far from his
own country ; and he gave me the follow-
ing account : That his father and himfelf,
with a few perfons more, being at a noted
town called Naggifaky, on the weft coaft
of the ifland, employed about fome affairs
of trade, and having finifhed their bufinefs,
intended to return to their own habitations,
on the north fliore, by failing round the
coaft. Therefore went they on board a
fmall
1720. TO P E K I N. 297
fmall boat, and begun their voyage home-
ward ; but, meeting with a ftrong gale off
the land, they were unfortunately driven
out to fea, and, in a few days, were caft
upon the coaft of Kamtzatfky, half-ftarved,
and in the greateft diftrefs- In this condi-
tion they met with a Ruffian officer, who
afforded them all that affiftance which com-
mon humanity dictates on fuch occafions.
Notwithftanding all his care, feveral of the
old people died, being quite fpent with fa-
tigue, and want of victuals. That he and
another youth, who was fince dead, were
fent to St Peterfburgh, where his Majefty
was pleafed to order that they fhould be
provided for in the Academy. This
young man could read and write both the
Japanefe and Rufljan languages.
We fet out from. Elimfky on the I2th ;
and next day, in the evening, came to a
fmall village, upon the north bank of the
river Angara, about eighty verft diftant
from Elimfky. During thefe two days we
faw no houfe nor any inhabitants, the whole
VOL. I. P p of
298 A JOURNEY 1720,
of the country through which we pafled
being covered with tall and thick woods.
There is a narrow, road cut for fledges, and
the trees on each fide meeting at the top
{hade it by day, and in the night make it
very dark, and almoft difmal.
We pafled the night in this village,
where we got frefn horfes ; and, next
morning, repeated our journey almoft due
eaft up the river Angara upon the ice. A-
long the banks we found many villages
well peopled. The face of the country
had now a different afpedt from what I had
feen for feveral months ; fometimes we
faw a fine champaign country, exhibiting
a beautiful and extenfive profpect ; at o-
ther times, the view was agreeably varied
with woods and rifing grounds. The
north fide of the river is moftly overgrown
with woods. There are fome openings a-
long the banks, where we found villages,
and abundance of cattle and provifions.
The 1 5th, we arrived at a large village
called Ballaganiky, fituated on the fouth
fide
1720, TO P E K I N. 299
fide of the Angara, near a rivulet, running
from the fouth, called Unga. The fitua-
tion of this place is very pleafant, as it
ftands in a fruitful plain, and has many
corn-fields and woods in the neighbour-
hood.
Here we found another tribe of the na-
tives of Siberia, who differ, in fome parti-
culars, from all thofe I have formerly de-
fcribed. They are called by the Ruffians
Bratfky, but by themfelves Buraty. They
live in tents all the year ; and, having large
flocks of fheep, and many cows and horfes,
they remove from place to place, as the
convenience of grazing requires. Their
language has a great affinity to that of the
Kalmucks 5 and they have priefts among
them who can read and write that lan-
guage. As to their drefs and manner of
life, I could obferve little difference between
them and the Kalmucks on the Volga ;
and therefore conclude they have both de-
fcended from the fame original. Their
faces, however, are not quite fo flat as thofe
of
A JOURNEY 1720,
of the Kalmucks ; their nofes beirfg fome-
what higher, and their countenances more
open.
The Buraty are ftout active men, but
hate all kind of labour : For, though they
have the example of the Ruffians plowing
and fowing their ground, and living plen-
tifully on the produce of this rich and fer-
tile foil, they chufe ftill to live in their
tents, and tend their flocks, on which their
fubfiftence entirely depends.
The chief exercife of the men is hunt-
ing and riding. They have a good breed
of faddle-horfes, and their horned cattle
are very large. Their fheep have broad
tails, and their mutton is excellent. They
have alib great abundance of goats ; for
all thefe animals they make no provifion
of fodder, but leave them to feed in the
open fields. When the fnow falls to a great
depth, which feldom happens in thefe parts,
they drive them to the fouthward to rifing
grounds, where Jitile fnow lies.
Their
I 7 2o. TO P E K I N. 301
Their arms are bows and arrows, lances
and fabres ; all of which are ufed on horfe-
back ; for, like the Kalmucks, they have
no infantry, They are dexterous archers,
and fkilful horfemen.
Thefe people were formerly fubject to a
prince of the Mongals, but now live very
quietly under the Ruffian government.
They are at prefent a very numerous
people, reaching towards the eaft and fouth
of the Baykall lake, and are generally
reckoned very honeft and fmcere.
As to their drefs, the men wear a coat,
or rather gown, of fheep-fkins, girt about
the middle, in all feafons ; a fmall round
cap, faced with fur, having a taflel of red
filk at the top, which, together with a pair
of drawers and boots, makes up the whole
of their apparel. The womens drefs is
nearly the fame, only their gowns are plait-
ed about the waift, and hang down like a
petticoat. The married women have their
hair hanging in two locks, one on each
fide of the head, drawn through two iron
rings
302 A JOURNEY 1720.
rings to prevent its floating on the breaft,
and looking very like a tye-wig. Round
their fore- head they wear a hoop of po-
limed iron, made faft behind ; and on their
head a fmall round cap, faced with fur,
and embroidered, in their fafhion, to dif-
tinguifh it from thofe of the men. The maids
are drefled in the fame manner, only their
hair is all plaited, hanging in feparate locks
round their head, and is as black as a ra-
ven : Some of them have good complex-
ions. Both the men and women are cour-
teous in their behaviour. I fhould like
them much better if they were a little more
cleanly. Both their perfons and tents are
extremely nafty, from their uimg only
{kins to preferve them from the cold ; on
thefe they fit or lie, round a little fire, in
their tents.
The religion of the Buraty feems to be
the fame with that of the Kalmucks, which
is downright Paganifm of the grofleft kind.
They talk indeed of an Almighty and good
being, who created all things, whom they
call
1720. T O P E K I N. 303
call Burchun, but feem bewildered, in ob-
fcure and fabulous notions, concerning his
nature and government. They have two
high priefts, to whom they pay great re-
fpecl: ; one is called Delay-Lama, the other
Kutuchtu. Of thefe priefts I {hall have an
opportunity to give fome account after-
wards.
In paffing the tents of the Buraty, I of-
ten obferved a long pole, whereon was
hung, by the horns, the head and fkin of a
fheep. On inquiring the reafon of this
appearance, I was told that the animal,
whofe head and fkin thefe were, had been
flain, and offered in facrifice, to the God
who protected their flocks and herds. I
could obferve no images among them, ex-
cept fomerelicks given them by their priefts,
which they had from the Delay-Lama ;
thefe are commonly hung up in a corner
of their tents, and fometimes about their
necks, by way of an amulet, to preferve
them from misfortunes.
The
304 A JOURNEY 1720,
The 1 6th, we came to another large vil-
lage, called Kamenka, fituated on the north
bank of the river, where we found many
of the Buraty in their tents. This day we
had fome rain, which melted much fnow,
and made it dangerous to travel upon the
ice ; fo that we were obliged to leave the
river, and make the beft of our way along
the banks ; for feveral of our horfes broke
through the ice, and were got up again
with no fmall difficulty.
The i yth, our route lay to the fouth-eaft.
The alteration of the weather was now
very perceptible, the heat of the fun was
very intenfe, and the fnow fuddenly dif-
appeared, leaving no marks of winter, ex-
cept the ice upon the river, which was va-
nifhing very faft. Thus, in the fpace of a
few days, we pafied from a cold winter to
a warm fpring ; and one would almoft have
imagined we had been imperceptibly drop-
ped into a another climate. Our fledges, in
which we had travelled and lodged, for
moft part, during the winter, could now be
of
1720. TO P E K I N. 305
of no ufe ; and we left them to be put on
wheel-carriages, in order to follow us as
fhould be convenient.
Having procured fuch horfes and furni-
ture as the place afforded, we proceeded a-
long the north bank of the Angara, to-
wards Irkutfky. We were efcorted by fome
Coflacks, and a party of the Buraty, armed
with bows and arrows. We hunted all the
way as we travelled, and were not a little
furprifed to fee the Buraty kill many hares
with their arrows. This exercife was very
feafonable, as we had been confined to
fledges for more than three months, during
our journey from Cazan to this place.
On the 1 8th of March, we arrived at
the town of Irkutfky, fo called from the
rivulet Irkut, which falls into the Angara
near it. It ftands on the north bank of
the Angara, in a large plain, to the north
of which the grounds are very high, and
covered with woods. On the fouth fide of
the river, towards the Baykall lake, are
high hills, rifing to the fouth, and covered
Voi,, I. Qjl with
06 A JOURNEY 1720.
\vith tall trees, among which are many la-
rixes and Siberian cedars. The larix, cal-
led in Rufs lifvinitza, is a well known tree
in thefe parts ; near the root of it grows a
famous drug, called agarick, in form of a
jnufhroom ; it fheds its leaf in autumn, and
in fummer it looks like a pine; it grows
yery flraight and tall, and is reckoned good
timber for {hip-building ; it bears a cone
Jike the fir-tree, containing the feed, but
not half fo large.
What is called the cedar is a large tall
tree, which never fhades the leaf; it is
white and fmcoth, but has not the leaft
fmell of cedar. They ufe it chiefly in build-
ing houfes ; and it makes the fined white
floors, and freed from knots, of any wood
I know. The leaves are like thofe of a
pine, but grow in taflels, very beautiful.
The cones are large, and inftead of feed,
like the fir, contain a fmall nut with a ker-
nel, of which the people in this country
are very fond, and eat it by way of a deferr,
jn place cf better fruit. It has a pleafant
tafte,
1720. TO P E K I N. 307
tafte, like that of raifins, and is efteemed
good for the flomach.
The town of Irkutfky is fortified with a
ditch, and ftrong pallifades, having towers
at certain diftances. The garrifon confifU
of fome regular troops, befides a number
of Coflacks, or the militia of the country.
The town contains about two thoufand
houfes ; and the inhabitants are plentifully
fupplied with provifions of all kinds front
the neighbouring villages. The adjacent
woods abound with variety of game, The
fiver affords fturgeon, and many other kinds
of fifh, but no fterlet; becaufe, as I appre-
hend, they delight in muddy dreams, and
the water at this place is fa clear, that, in
two fathoms deep, one may fee the pebbled
at the bottom.
At Irkutfky is a good market for furs of
all forts, and likewife for -many kinds of
Chinefe goods. All mefchandife muft be
entered at the cuftom-houfe in this place^
and pays a duty of ten per cent, which pro-
duces
3 o8 AJOURNEY 1720.
duces a confiderable revenue to his Ma-
jefty.
The sjth of March, our baggage arri-
ved, after furmounting many difficulties
on the road. They had been obliged to
leave many of the fledges, after taking the
baggage off them, and putting it on wheel-
carriages.
Our defign was to have crofled the Bay-
kail Sea upon the ice, and then proceeded
by land to the town of Selinginfky ; but
we came too late for that purpofe. The
feafon was fo far advanced, that, before our
carriages arrived, the river was almoft free
of ice. We were informed, indeed, that
the ice upon the lake was fufficiently ftrong
to bear horfes ; but, upon confidering the
matter, it was thought moft advifeable to re-
main here, till the ice in the fea was alfo
melted, that we might go by water to Se-
linginfky ; and orders were immediately
given that veflels fliould be prepared for
this purpofe*
April
TO P E K I N. 30$
April i ft, we croflfed the river, accom-
panied by Mr Rakitin the commandant, in
order to take a view of the country towards
the fouth. We rode through fine woods of
ftately oaks, and other trees, formerly men-
tioned. We hunted all the way, and found
abundance of game. At laft, we came to a
fmall Ruffian village, in a fruitful valley,
encompafled with hills covered with woods,
where we lodged. Next day we went ten
or a dozen miles farther, in fearch of wild
beafts ; but, finding none, we returned to
the fame village, and the day following to
Irkutfky.
The loth, we were entertained with a
famous Buratfky Shaman, who was alfo
lama or prieft, and was brought from a
great diftance. As thefe fhamans make a
great noife in this part of the world, and
are believed, by the ignorant vulgar, to be
infpired, I lhall give fome account of the
behaviour of this one, in particular, by
which it will appear that the whole is an
impofition.
He
316 A JOURNEY
He was introduced to the ambaflador by
the commandant, accompanied by feveral
chiefs of his own tribe, who treat him with
great refpecT:. He was a man of about
thirty years of age, of a grave afpe<5t and
deportment. At his introduction, he had
a cup of brandy prefented to him, which
he drank, but refufed any more.
After fome converfation, he was defired
to exhibit fome fpecimen of his art ; but
he replied, he could do nothing in a Ruf-
fian houfe, becaufe there were fome images
of faints which prevented his fuccefs. The
performance was therfore adjourned to a
Buratfky tent in the fuburbs. According-
ly, in the evening, we went to the place
appointed, where we found the fhaman,
with feveral of his companions, round a
little fire, fmoking tobacco, but no women
among them. We placed ourfelves on one
fide of the tent, leaving the other for him
and his countrymen. After fitting about
half an hour, the fliaman placed himfelf
crofs- legged upon the floor, clofe by a few
burn- 1
* 7 2o. TO P E K I N. 311
burning coals upon the hearth, with his,
face towards his companions ; then he took
two fticks, about four feet long each, one
in each hand, and began to fmg a difmai
tune, beating time with the fticks ; all his
followers joined in the chorus. During
this part of the performance, he turned and
diftorted his body into many different pof-
tures, till at laft he wrought himfelf up to
fuch a degree of fury, that he foamed at
the mouth, and his eyes looked red and fta^
ring. He now darted up on his legs, and fell
a dancing, like one diftracled, till he trode
out the fire with his bare feet. Thefe un-
natural motions were, by the vulgar, attri-
buted to the operations of a divinity j and,
in truth, one would almoft have imagined
him poflefTed by fome daemon. After being
quite fpent with dancing, he retired to the
door of the tent, and gave three dreadful
flirieks, by which, his companions faid, he
called the daemon to direct him in anfwer-
ing fuch queftions as mould be propofed.
He then returned, and fat down in great
com-
314 A JOURNEY 1720;
compofure, telling he was ready to refolve
any queftion that might be afked. Several
of our people put queftions in abundance ;
all which he anfwered readily, but in fuch
ambiguous terms that nothing could be
made of them. He now performed feve-
ral legerdemain tricks, fuch as ftabbing
himfelf with a knife, and bringing it up at
at his mouth, running himfelf through
with a fword, and many others too trifling
to mention. In fhort, nothing is more e-
vident than that thefe fhamans are a parcel
of jugglers, who impofe on the ignorant
and credulous vulgar.
The 6th of April, we went to a monaf-
tery, about five miles to the eaftward of
this place, where we dined with the Arch-
bifhop of Tobolfky. This prelate had
lately come hither to vifit fome monafte-
ries, and, in his way, had baptifed a num-
ber of Ofteaks and other heathens. From
this time, till the 8th of May, little mate-
rial happened. We waited patiently for
difTolving of the ice on the Baykall
lake,
T O P E K I N.
lake, of which we expected to receive the
moft certain knowledge, by means of the
Boating ice on the Angara ; for, when this
happens, that river is filled with floating
takes, which are driven along with great
fury by the wind and current.
The nth, the river was now clear of
ice. Our baggage was {hipped on board
large flat-bottomed boats, and drawn up
the ftream ; the wind being foutherly^
made the progrefs'of the boats very flow.
The ambaflador, therefore, refolved to re-
main at this place till he heard they had
nearly reached the lake, which is about
forty verft from Irkutfky.
Before we left this place, Mr Kfemen-
{ky, our interpreter for the Latin tongue^
died of a hectic diforder. He Was a Poliffi
gentleman* and had laboured under this
diftemper for fome years.
VOL, I* R r a H A
314 A JOURNEY 1720.
CHAP. V.
From Irkutjky, crofs the Lake Bay-
kall, to Selinginjky ; feme Account
of the Kutuchtu, &c.
THE ijth of May, the weather being
very hot, we did not fet out till after
dinner, when we left Irkutfky, accompa-
nied by the commandant and fome other
officers of the place. We rode along the
north bank of the river, through pleafant
woods, and fome open fields, till we came,
about midnight, to a few fifhermen's huts,
where we halted for a few hours, and re-
peated our journey early next morning.
At
$720. T O P E K I N ? 315
At noon, we arrived at a fmall chapel,
dedicated to St Nicolas, where travellers
ufually pay their devotions, and pray for a
profperous paflage over the lake. About
this religious houfe there are a few fifher-
men's huts. Two monks conftantly at-
tend, to put people in mind of their duty,
and receive a fmall gratuity from the paf-
fengers.
Here we found our boats waiting for
us below the falls of the Angara. From
hence you can fee the lake, burfting out
betwixt two high rocks, and tumbling
down over huge ftones, that lie quite crofs
the river, which I reckon to be about an
Englifh mile broad. The whole channel
of the river is covered with thefe rocks,
from the mouth of the lake down to the
Chapel of St Nicolas, about the diftance of
an Englifh mile. There is no paflage for the
fmalleft boats, except along the eaft fhore,
thro' a narrow ftrait, between the rocks and
the land. In the moft mallow places, there
is about five or fix feet water, and breadth
all
AJOURNEY 1720:
all the way fufficient for any fmgle vef-
fel. But if, by ftrefs of weather, or any o-r
ther accident, a boat fhould have the mifr
fortune to mifs this opening, and be thrown
upon the rocks, fhe muft immediately be
dafhed to pieces, and the whole crew ine-
vitably perifh. The waters, darning upon
the ftones, make a poife like the roaring of
the fea, fo that people near them can
fcarce hear one another fpeak. 1 cannot'
jexprefs the awful nefs with which one i,s
ilruck, at the fight of fuch aftonifhing
fcenes of qature as appear round this place,
and which, I believe, are not to be equalled
in the known world. The pilots and fail-
prs who navigate the lake'fpeak of it with
much reverence, calling it the Holy Sea,,
and the mountains about it the Holy Moun-
tains^ and are highly difpleafed with any
perfon who fpeaks of it with difrefped:, or
calls it a lake. They tell a ftory of a cer-
tain pilot who always gave it that appellar
4ion, but was feverely punifhed for his con-
{empt. Being on a voyage in autumn, he
and
TO P E K I N. 317
and his crew were tofled from fide to fide
of the lake, till they were half ftarved, and
jn great danger of perifhing. Neceflity, at
laft, forced this hardy mariner to comply
with the prevailing cuftom, and pray to
the Holy Sea and Mountains to have com-
panion on him in fuch diftrefs. His pray-
ers were effectual, and he arrived fafe to
land ; but was obferved, ever after, to fpeak
of the fea with the greateft refped:.
The afternoon was fpent in adjufting the
tacklej and preparing the barks for being
flrawn up the ftrong narrow current.
The iyth, the wind being contrary, and
blowing pretty frefh, the pilots would no.t
venture out. I, and three more of our
company, took this opportunity of walk-
ing up to the top of the mountains, where
we had a full view of the fea, and the land
to the fouth, on the other fide of it, and
alfo to the weft, as far as it extends. The
land on the fouth fide of the lake rifes gra-
dually, till it terminates in hills moftly co-
f ered with wood j but, on the weftern
fhore^
A JOURNEY i 720 .
fhore, there are very high mountains, feve-
ral whereof are overfpread with deep fnow,
which we could eafily difcern, though at a
great diftance.
The Baykall Sea, oppofhe to the mouth
of the Selinga, is reckoned about fifty Eng-
lifh miles broad, though it is much broader
in fome other places, and about three hun-
dred miles in length. It is wholly frefh
water, and is fupplied by the Selinga, and
many other rivers, from the fouth, and by
the higher Angara from the eaft. The
courfe of the fea is from fouth-weft to
north-eaft, and has very few fhelves or
rocks. There is only one large ifland,
near the middle of it, called Olchon. It is
bounded on the north by a ridge of high
rocks, which run fiom one end of it to the
ether. Th^ only opening by which it dif-
charges itfelf is that into the Angara,
which, though it is a natural pafiage, ap-
pears as if cut through the rocks by art.
Jn my opinion, one cannot imagine a more
beautiful profpecT: of nature, than is feen
from
I 7 2o. T O P E K I N.
from the top of thefe mountains, which
may eafily be perceived from the fhort and
imperfect fketch I have drawn of it. The
woods on the fummit of the rocks are
fhort, and thinly fcatteied ; but, on their
declivity towards the north, and in the val-
leys, the trees become gradually both taller
and larger. There is abundance of game
and wild beafts in thefe woods, particularly
the wild boar, which was the firft of that
fpecies we found in this country ; a cer-
tain fign of a temperate climace ; for thefe
animals cannot endure the exceffive cold
in more northerly parts. The hunting of
thefe animals being a dangerous kind of
fport, we carefully avoided their haunts. In
the evening, we returned to our barks at
the chapel of St Nicolas.
The Baykall is abundantly furnimed
with various kinds of excellent fifh, parti-
cularly fturgeon, and a fifli called omully t
in ihape and tafte refembling a herring, but
broader and larger. The fea produces alfo
great numbers of feals, whofe fkins are
pre-
AJOURNEV 1725;
preferred in quality to thofe of feals caught
in falt-water. I am of opinion, that both
the feals and fifh in the Baykall came ori-
ginally from the Northern Ocean, as the
communication between them is open, tho*
the diftance be very great.
The feals are generally caught in winter,
by ftrong nets hung under the ice. The
method they ufe is, to cut many holes in
the ice, at certain diftances from one ano-
ther, fo that the fiihermen can, with long
poles, ftretch their nets from one hole to
another, and thus continue them to any
diftance. The feals, not being able to bear
long confinement under the ice, for want
of air, feek thefe holes for relief, and thus
entangle themfelves in the nets. Thefe
creatures, indeed, commonly make many
holes for themfelves, at the fetting in of the
frofb In this manner they catch, not only
feals, but fifh of all kinds, in winter.
The 1 8th, the wind being favourable, we
put off from St Nicolas's. ' As we had
workmen enough, we left part of them on
board
TO P E K I N.
/
board, to aflift the pilot, by fetting poles,
while the reft were employed on fhore, in
towing the barks againft a ftrong current.
In about the fpace of three hours we got
clear of the current, add all hands came on
board. We were now quite becalmed, and
obliged to take to our oars. We rowed a-
long fhore to the eaftward till about noen,
when we had an eafy breeze, which foon
carried us two thirds over the fea, under
our main-fail. The wind now chopped a-
bout to the eaft, and blew fo frefh, that we
could not make the river Selinga, which
was the port where we intended to land.
As thefe barks cannot turn to windward, we
were drove about ten miles to the weft-
ward of the Poflblfky monaftery, which
ftands about fix miles to the weftward of
the Selinga, in a pleafant and fruitful plain,
furnifhing an extenfive view in all direc-
tions ; where, endeavouring to get to land
at any rate, we fleered into a bay, in which
We fancied we faw the fhore covered with
cocklesfhells or white fand. On a nearer
VOL. I. S s approach,
322 A JOURNEY 1720.
approach, our miftake appeared. For what
feemed {hells or fand, at a diftance, was
only great and fmall cakes of ice, beating
with the waves againft the main body of
the ice, which lay firm, and covered the
whole bay. Our people, on diftinguiming
the ice, immediately ftruck fail, and were
in no fmall confufion. But Mr Ifmaeloff
ordered the fail to be again fet, and to fteer
dire&ly for the ice. In the mean time, all
hands were employed in hanging boards a-
bout the bow of the veflel, to prevent the
cutting of the planks, and in fetting poles
to pufh off the large cakes. At laft we
came among the ice, which made a terrible
rattling at firft ; but the farther we advan-
ced, the eafier our bark lay, till we came to
the main body of the ice, where fhe re-
mained as unmoved as if (he had been in
a mill-pond, though it ftill continued to
blow hard. We now quitted the fhip, and
walked about upon the ice, which was yet
ftrong enough to carry horfes. By this
time the fun was fet, which prevented our
defign
1720. TO P E K I N. 323
defign of going afhore, for the diftance was
at leaft five Englifh miles ; and there was
a great gap in the ice near the place where
we lay.
About midnight the wind turned wef-
terly, and, at break of day, we left our fta-
tion, and failed to the eaftward, and, about
noon, entered the river Selinga, where we
found our other three barks. They ha-
ving been two or three miles before us the
preceding night, had time enough to reach
anchoring ground, and, by this means, e-
fcaped the ice, fo little expected at this fea-
fon of the year. We ourfelves, before en-
tering the bay, had founded, in order to
difcover whether we could come to an an-
chor ; but no bottom could be found, tho*
we joined feveral lead-lines together, a-
mounting to above one hundred and fifty
fathoms.
The mouth of the Selinga is furrounded
with tall reeds, and contains feveral iflands.
The entry into it is very difficult, except
the wind be fair, becaufe of many flats and
324 A JOURNEY 1720.
fand-banks, thrown up by the current of
the river. Here we found great flocks of
all kinds of water- fowl, particularly fnipes.
The wind continuing fair, we failed up
the river to a rmall oratory, dedicated alfo
to St Nicolas, where all hands went afhore
to return thanks for their fafe paflage. The
prior of the Pofloliky monaftery came to
this place to falute the ambaffador, and
brought a prefent of fifh, and fuch other
provifions as thefe religious houfes afford.
In the evening we proceeded up the ri-
ver, till night overtook us, when we hauled
pur boats clofe to the bank, and lay till
next morning, which was the 2oth of May.
This day being calm, the barks were towed
up the river ; and we walked along the
banks, hunting all the way in a very plea-
fant country. At night we lay by, as for-?
merly.
The 2 1 ft, the weather was very hot.
We continued our voyage in the fame
planner as before.
The
I 7 2o. f O P E K I N. 325
The 22d, the wind being fair, we hoift-
ed fails, and in the evening arrived at a
large village, well built and peopled, called
Kabbanfky Oftrogue. This place is plea-
fantly fituated, on a rifing ground upon
the weft bank of the river, furrounded
with many corn-fields and much pafturage.
Here we took new hands on board- our
barks, and difmiffed the former to return
in open boats to Irkutfky.
The 25th, we reached another large
village called Bolfhoy Zaimka, fituated in
a fertile country. In the neighbourhood
is a fmall monaftery, and many lefler vil-
lages. Many of the Buraty were en-
camped, with their flocks and herds, on
both fides of the river.
The climate on this fide of the Baykall
kke is much more temperate than on the
north fide. The land produces rich crops
of wheat, rye, barley, oats, buck-wheat,
and peafe ; befides kitchen roots, and o-
ther garden fluff. The inhabitants have
not yet begun to plant any kind of fruit-
trees,
326 AJOURNEY 1720.
trees, which a I am perfuaded, would thrive
exceedingly, as the winters are fhort, and
the fnow does not lie above fix weeks or
two months. The banks of the river ap-
peared very pleafant, being finely varied
with plains and woods.
The 26th, we came to a large town, cal-
led Udinfky, from the rivulet Uda, which
runs into the Selinga, on the eaft bank.
This place alfo ftands in a fertile plain, ha-
ving hills covered with woods towards the
eaft. In thefe hills are found feveral rich
ores, particularly of lead ; in digging which
many hands are now employed. The
miners fay it is of too hard a quality ; how-
ever, they have extracted confiderable
quantities of filver from it ; and I have
been informed that they alfo found fome
veins of filver ore. As thefe works are
but lately begun, it is not doubted that they
are capable of great improvement, at an
eafy charge, as the metal lies fo near the
furface. Samples of thefe ores have been
fent to St Peterfburgh 5 and, 1 am inform-
ed,
1720. T O P E K I N. 327
ed, his Majefty has engaged fome German
miners to make experiments upon them.
Both here and on the Angara iron is to
be found in great abundance at the very
furface : But as the diftance is too great
for exportation, it is not worth the labour.
To fupply the common confumption of the
country, the fmith takes his bellows, goes
to the mine, and fmelts and works as much
iron as he needs. I have feen fome of this
iron of an excellent, foft, and pliable qua-
lity.
Befides the above mentioned, there are
at this place very rich mines of copper. I
have feen fome of the ore with large veins
of pure copper running through it. I
make no doubt but time and future difco-
veries will bring thefe mines to perfection,
to the great emolument of the Ruffian em-
pire.
All this country is under the jurifdidion
of the commandant of Irkutiky, who fends
deputies to all the towns of this extenfive
province, to adminifter juftice, and take
care
A JOURNEY 1720,
care of his Majefty's revenues. The pow-
er of nominating fub-governours and com-
mandants, is vefted by his Majefty in the
governour of Siberia, which gives him an
authority equal to a fovereign prince.
The ambaffador, finding the progrefs of
the boats againft the ftream very flow and
tedious, being befides much peftered with
gnats and mufkitoes, refolved to go by-
land the reft of the way to Selinginfky :
For which purpofe, the fuperintendant of
this place ordered horfes, and a proper ef-
cort, to be got ready againft next morning
on the other fide of the river, the road on
this fide being interrupted by thick woods
and deep rivers.
The 27th, paving fent off our barks, we
crofled the river, and, having no baggage,
we foon mounted. The road lay through
a fine plain, covered with excellent grafs,
In the evening we came to a fountain of
pure water, where we lodged in the tents
of the Buraty, and flept on bull-hides.
The
TO P E K I N. 329
The 28th, early, we proceeded, travel*
ling over fome pretty high hills overgrown
with wood. About no.on, we came to a
river called Orongoy, which we crofled on
a tall camel, it being too deep for horfes.
At this place we found a number of the
Buraty encamped, with their flocks gra-
zing in the neighbourhood.
Our horfes having fwam the river, we
went into one of the Buratfky tents till
they were dried. The hofpitable landlady
immediately fet her kettle on the fire to
make us fome tea ; the extraordinary
cookery of which I cannot omit defcri-
bing. After placing a large iron kettle over
the fire, fhe took care to wipe it very clean
with a horfe's tail, that hung in a corner
of the tent for that purpofe ; then the wa-
ter was put into it, and foon after fome
coarfe bohea tea, which is got from China,
and a little fait. When near boiling, Ihe
took a large brafs ladle, and tofled the tea
till the liquor turned very brown. It was
now taken off the fire, and, after fubfiding
VOL. I. T t
330 AJOURNEY 1720.
a little, was poured clear into another vef-
fel. The kettle being wiped clean with the
horfe's tail as before, was again fet upon
the fire. The miftrefs now prepared a
pafte, of meal and frefh butter, that hung
in a fkin near the horfe's tail, which was
put into the tea-kettle and fried. Upon
this pafte the tea was again poured, to
which was added fome good thick cream,
taken out of a clean fheep's fkin, which
hung upon a peg among the other things.
The ladle was again employed, for the fpace
of fix minutes, when the tea, being remo-
ved from the fire, was allowed to ftand a
while in order to cool. The landlady now
/
took fome wooden cups, which held about
half a pint each, and ferved her tea to all
the company. The principal advantage of
this tea is, that it both fatisfies hunger and
quenches thirft. I thought it not difagree-
able ; but fhould have liked it much better
had it been prepared in a manner a little
more cleanly. Our bountiful hoftefs, how-
ever, gave us a hearty welcome 5 and as
thefe
1720. TO P E K I N. 331
thefe people know not the ufe of money,
there was nothing to pay for our enter-
tainment. We only made her a prefent of
a little tobacco to fmoke, of which thefe
people are very fond. I have given this
receipt with a view that fome European
ladies may improve upon it.
After this fhort repaft, we mounted a-
gain ; and, in the evening, came to a neat
Ruffian village, on the front of a pleafant
hill covered with wood. This place is
furrounded with extenfive valleys and fine
pafturage, and our accommodation waa
better than the preceding night. Here we
met Mr Firfoff, colonel of the coflacks, or
militia of Selinginfky, with a fquadron of
horfe, armed with bows and arrows, and
fome firelocks, who came to efcort the
ambafTador to that place.
The 2 Qth of May we mounted early,
and, by means of our coffacks, hunted and
ranged the woods, as we went along, in
the manner of this country, called oblave
in the Ruffian language. Their method is
to
332 AJOURNEY
to form a femi- circle of horfemen, armed
with bows and arrows, in order to inclofe
the game. Within the femi- circle a few
young men are placed, who give notice
when the game is fprung ; thefe only are
permitted to purfue, the others being con-
fined to keep their ranks. Our coffacks,
with their arrows, killed thre.e deer, and fe-
veral hares : And, if killing harmlefs ani-
mals can be called diyerfion, this may pro-
perly be reckoned one of the fineft. After
this fafhion they hunt bears, wolves, foxes,
and wild boars.
About noon we came to a village on the
Selinga, where we halted a few hours, and
then crofled the river in boats, which was
near a mile broad at this place. Our cof-
facks, however, fought no boats, except one
to tranfport their arms, cloaths, and fad-
dies ; which being done, all of them mount-
ed their horfes, and plunged into the river
without the leaft concern. As foon as the
horfes were fet a fwimming, for eafe to
them the men which is tinged by the rich-
nefs of the foil.
The 26th, we proceeded. The country
retained much the fame appearance, and
the weather was very fine ; but not a fingle
inhabitant was yet to be feen. In the eve-
ning, I walked from our tents, with fome
of our company, to the top of a neighbour-
ing hill, where 1 found many plants of ex-
cellent rhubarb j and, by the help of a
flick, dug up as much of it as I wanted.
On thefe hills are a great number of a-
nimals called marmots, of a brownifti co-
lour, having feet like a badger, and nearly
of the fame fize. They make deep bur-
rows on the declivities of the hills ; and it
is faid, that in winter they continue in thefe
holes, for a certain time, even without
food. At this feafon, however, they fit or
lie
j 7 20. TO P E K I N. 385
lie near their burrows, keeping a ftrict
watch ; and, at the approach of danger,
rear themfelves upon their hind-feet, gi-
ving a loud whittle, like a man, to call in
the ftragglers ; and then drop into their
holes in a moment.
I mould not have mentioned an animal
fo well known as the marmot, had it not
been on account of the rhubarb- Where-
ever you fee ten or twenty plants grow-
ing) 7 OU are fure of finding feveral bur-
rows under the fhades of their broad fpread-
ing leaves. Perhaps they may fometimes
eat the leaves and roots of this plant.
However, it is probable the manure they
leave about the roots contributes not a little
to its increafe ; and their cafting up the
earth makes it fhoot out young buds and
multiply. This plant does not run and
fpread itfdf like docks, and others of-the
fame fpecies, but grows in tufts at uncer-
tain diftarices, as if the feeds had been
dropped with defign. It appears that the
Mongalls never accounted it \vorth culti-
VOL. I. 3 C vating,
A JOURNEY 1720.
vating, but that the world is obliged to the
marmots for the quantities fcattered at
random in many parts of this country ; for
whatever part of the ripe feed happens to
be blown among the thick grafs can very
feldom reach the ground, but muft there
wither and die ; whereas, fhould it fall a-
mong the loofe earth, thrown up by the
marmots, it immediately takes root, and
produces a new plant.
After digging and gathering the rhubartf,
the Mongalls cut the large roots into fmali
pieces, in order to make them dry more
readily. In the middle of every piece they
fcoop a hole, through which a cord is
drawn, in order to fufpend them in any
convenient place. They hang them, for
moft part, about their tents, and fomedmes
on the horns of their Iheep. This is a
moft pernicious cuftorn, as it deftroys fome
of the bed part of the root ; for all about
the hole is rotten and ufelefs ; whereas,
were people rightly informed how to dig
and dry this plant, there would not be one
pound
1720. T O P E K I N. 387
pound of refufe in an hundred, which
would fave a great deal of trouble and ex-
pence, that much diminifh the profits on
this commodity. At prefent, the dealers
in this article think thefe improvements not
worthy of their attention, as their gains
are more confiderable on this than on any
other branch of trade. Perhaps the go-
vernment may hereafter think it proper to
make fome regulations with regard to this
matter.
I have been more particular in defcribing
the growth and management of the rhu-
barb ; becaufe I never met with an author
or perfon who could give a fatisfactory
account where, or how it grows. I am
perfuaded, that, in fuch a dry climate as
this, it might eafily be fo cultivated as to
produce any quantity that could be want-
ed.
I omit any computation of the diftances
of places along this road, as the whole of
it from the borders to Pekin has been mea-
fured by a wheel, or machine, given to the
caravan
3 88 AJOURNEY 1720.
caravan by the governour of Siberia for that
purpofe^ I fhall afterwards fubjoin the ex-
act diftances taken from this meafurement.
The 2^th and 28th we purfued the fame
road, over hills and through vallies : For,
tho' few travel this way, the caravans, with
their heavy carnages, leave fuch marks as
are not foon effaced. It is only of late that
the caravans travelled this road. Former-
ly they went farther to the north, by a
Ruffian town called Nertzinfky, and thence
to a Chinefe city called Naun. That road
is more convenient than the prefent, as it
lies through places better inhabited ; but
the prefent is fhorter, and therefore taken
by moft travellers.
The 29th, we reached a river called
Buroy, where we lodged. At this dry fea-
fon all thefe rivers are fordable ; and they
abound with fturgeon and other fi(h. Next
morning, Mr Venant, our chief cook,
dropped down, as he was coming out of
his tent, and immediately expired, not-
\vithftanding all poffible care was taken for
his
I 7 2o. TO P E K I N. 389
his recovery. We interred him as decent-
ly as time and circumftances would ad-
mit, and proceeded to a river called Bor-
gualty, where we pitched our tents for this
night.
October ift, after a long day's journey,
we reached a rivulet called Koyra. The
face of the country appeared nearly the
fame as formerly.
The 2d, after another long march, we
came to the banks of the river Tola, the
largeft we had feen fmce we left the Se-
linga.
Next day we crofled the Tola at a pretty
deep ford, where the river was in breadth
about the flight of an arrow at point
blank. It was noon before our camels got
over, and too late to proceed. We were
therefore obliged to fet up our tents on the
eaft bank of the river, which was over-
grown with tall oziers.
Here our conductor furnifhed us with
frefh horfes and camels. From the bor-
ders to this place our ftages were regulated
by
A JOURNEY 1720,
by brooks and rivers, for the conveniency
of getting water : And, for the fame rea-
fon, as there are no rivers nor brooks from
hence to the wall of China, fountains and
iprings will be our only ftages.
On the banks of the Tola we found
many Mongalls encamped, with numerous
flocks of cattle, being the firft inhabitants
we had feen fince our leaving the border.
The Ruffians, and the Mongalls who are
fubjeds of Ruffia, claim all the country
4
weftward from the Tola, which, they fay,
is the natural boundary between the two
empires. This would indeed be a confi-
derable addition to the dominions of Ruf-
fia ; But as both thefe mighty monarchs
are abundantly provided with a vaft extent
of territory, neither party think it worth
while to difpute about a few hundred miles
of property, which obtained would perhaps
not balance the coft, or contribute but lit-
tle to the advantage of either.
The appearance of the country was now
greatly altered to the worfe. We faw no
more
1 7 2o. TO P E K I N. 39 1
more pleafant hills and woods ; neither
could I find one Tingle plant of rhubarb.
The foil was dry and barren, and the grafs
not to be compared to what we had already
pafied over.
The 4th, after every man had drunk his
fill of the pure and wholefome water of
Tola, and filled his bottle with it, we de-
parted with fome regret, as we could hope
for no more rivers or brooks till we came
to the wall of China. We foon entered the
defert commonly named by the Mongalls
the Hungry Defert. How far it deferves
that title, will be feen as we advance.
In the evening, we reached fome pits,
called Tola-tologoy, of brackifh water,
where we pitched our tents. The road
ftill pointed to the fouth-eaft, with little
variation, over grounds that rofe a little at
firft, but afterwards gradually declined*
We faw many Mongalian tents and cattle
difperfed along the defert.
The jth, we fet out again, and, in the
evening, came to fome fountains, called
Ghelo-
A JOURNEY 1720.
Chelo-tologoy, of pretty frefh water. The
country was quite level, and appeared to
the eye as plain as the fea. The foil was
dry, barren, and gravelly, and neither tree
nor bulh to be feen ; a profpect not very
agreeable,
The 6th, early in the morning, we pro-
ceeded eaftward, through the fame fort of
flat country. The weather was very fine,
and the roads excellent. In the evening,
we arrived at a pool, called Tylack, of
brackifti water, where we remained the
following night. This day we faw feveral
large flocks of antelopes, and fome Mon-
galls in their tents, which was no difagree-
able object in this continued plain. We
pafTed few of thefe tents without vifiting
them, where we always found an hofpi-
table reception, and were entertained with
fome zaturan, a kind of tea which I for-
merly defcribed. And, if we happened to
ftay till our baggage was gone out of fight,
the landlord conduced us by the fhorteft
way
1720. T O P E K I N. 393
xvay to the fprings that terminated the next
ftage.
The next day, we came to the wells
called Gachun. Our bifcuit being now
fpent, we were reduced to live on mutton
only, during the reft of our journey thro*
this defert ; which we accounted no great
hardfhip, as it was extremely fine. It is
not a little furprifing, that, notwithftand-
ing the barren appearance of this unfhelter-
ed plain, the cattle are in good condition,
but particularly the fheep. The {hort
grafs, though in many places thinly fcatter-
ed, muft be of a very nourifhing quality.
This will naturally proceed from the cli-
mate, and the foil, which every where par-
takes of a nitrous quality, as plainly ap-
pears from the fcurf of fait round the edges
of the lakes and ponds, and the tafte of the
water, generally brackifh in the fprings and
pits.
The 8th, our conductor furnimed us
with a frefh fet of cattle, which- detained
us later than our ufual time of felting out.
VOL. I. 3 D This
394 A JOURNEY 1720.
This day, the foil was very much inclined
to gravel, containing a number of red and
yellow pebbles, many of which being tran-
fparent, made a fine appearance while the
fun fhone. We were informed there were
fometimes ftones of value found here,
which fo much excited our curiofity, that
each of us, every day, picked up a confi-
derable quantity. On examination, moft
of them were thrown away, as altogether
ufelefs ; the few we thought proper to re-
tain were wrought into very good feals. A
man might gather a bulhel of fuch ftones e-
veryday in this defert. One of our people,
a Grecian by birth, who underftood fome-
thing of the nature of ftones, found one
that he called a yellow fapphire, and valued
it at fifty crowns, perhaps thefe pebbles
might be of that kind which the lapidaries
call cornelian ; for they are fufficiently
hard, and take a fine polim.
The gth, we fet out early, and travelled
to a pool named Oko-toulgu. This day,
a lama from the Kutuchtu, going to Pekin,
r-720. TO P E K I N. 395
joined our company, who, by his habit and
equipage, feemed to be a perfon of emi-
nence. In marching along the tedious de-
fert, the converfation turned on a terrible
earthquake, which happened during the
month of July laft in China, between' the
long wall and Pekin, and had laid in ruins
feveral villages and walled towns, and bu-
ried many people in their ruins. The la-
ma inquired what was the opinion of the
learned men in Europe concerning the
caufe of this phaenomenon. We told him,
it was commonly reckoned to be fubterra-
neous fire ; and then afked, in our turn,
to what caufe fuch extraordinary appearan-
ces were imputed by his countrymen ? He
replied, that fome of their learned lamas had
written, that God, after he had formed the
earth, placed it on a golden frog ; and, when-
ever this prodigious frog had occafion to
fcratch its head, or ftretch out its foot, that
part of the earth immediately above was ma-
ken. There was no reafoning on a notion
fo fantaftical ; we therefore left the lama to
pleafe
396 A JOURNEY 1720,
pleafe himfelf with his hypothefis, and
turned the difcourfe to fome other fubject.
The loth, we came to the fprings called
Korpartu. The appearance of things this
day were almoft the fame as on the prece-
ding days. The foil appeared fo barren, that
none of the common methods of improve-
ment could make it bear any kind of grain,
or even alter its prefent condition. The
difpofitions of its inhabitants, the Mon-
galls, feem wonderfully fuited to their fitu-
ation, as they appear more contented with
their condition than thofe who poflefs the
inoft fruitful countries.
In the evening of the nth, we arrived
at Khododu, where we found the water
clear, and pretty frefli, burfting, in aftrong
fpring, from the gravelly earth, and run-
ning in a dream to a confiderable diftance,
till it lofes itfelf in the fand. This was the
firft running water we had feen fince we
left the Tola. And we were as happy,
while fitting round this fountain, and broil-
ing our mutton-chops, as others at a table
plen-
1720. TO P E K I N. 397
plentifully furnifhed with Burgundy and
Champaign. Our appetites were indeed
very keen ; to which daily exercife> the
coldnefs of the air, and drinking nothing
but water, greatly contributed.
Next morning, being the I2th, there
was a little froft upon the ground. Seve-
ral flocks of gray plovers came to drink
at the fpring, of which our people killed
as many as our prefent circumftances re-
quired. Thefe poor harmlefs birds feemed
infenfible of danger ; and, perhaps, they
had never before heard the report of a gun ;
for, no fooner was the piece fired, than
they took a fhort flight round the foun-
tain, whittling as they flew, and immedi-
ately alighted to drink again. The plover
is a pretty bird, and pleafant to eat ; and
the foles of its feet are as hard as fo much
horn, which prevent its being hurt by the
ftones or gravel. In the evening, we came
to the wells called Bouk-horlike, without
any thing material happening, or any dif-
ference on the face of the country.
The
398 A JOURNEY 1720,
The 1 3th, we continued our journey to
the wells of Buduruy, where we were a-
gain furnifhed with frefh horfes and ca-
mels.
The 1 4th, we came to a place called Ka-
dan-Kachu, where we were obliged to dig
a pit, four feet deep, in order to procure
water ; which was very bad, having both
a difagreeable fmell, and bitter tafte ; but
was drinkable, when boiled with fome tea.
We could, however, get none for our
cattle, as the high wind rilled the pits with
fand as faft as we could dig them. This
fand is of a whitifh colour, and fo light
and dry, that it is driven by the winds into
your face and eyes, and becomes very dif-
agreeable. Moft of our people, indeed,
were provided with a piece of net-work,
made of horfe-hair, which covered their
eyes, and is very ufeful in drifts, cither of
fand or fnow.
The ijth, we travelled over deep fands;
and in the evening arrived at other fprings,
called Tzagan-teggerick. The wind conti-
nuing
TO P E K I N. 399
nuing high, it was with much difficulty we
fet up our tents. It is to be obferved that,
on thefe deep and light fands, our Euro-
pean tents are of little ufe, as there is no
earth in which the tent-pins can be fatten-
ed. The Tartar tents are much preferable ;
for, their figure being round and taper, like
a bee-hive, the wind takes but little hold of
them, and they ftand equally well on a
fandy, or on any other furface. They are,
befides, warmer, more eafily erected, taken
down, and tranfported.
The 1 6th, we left the deep fand, and
travelled along the fame fort of dry gra-
velly ground as formerly. In the even-
ing, we pitched our tents at the fprings
called Sadjin. The variety of objects, in
this dreary wafte, are fo few, that in this,
as well as in other refpecls, it much re-
fembles the fea. Here one can fee no far-
ther than if he was placed on the furface of
the water, out of fight of land ; the round-
ing of the globe, in both cafes, being the
fame. Sometimes, in the morning, I have
been
400 AJOURNEY 1720.
been agreeably furprifed in fancying I faw,
at a fmall diftance, a fine river, having
rows of trees growing upon its banks ; but
this was only a deception of the fight, pro-
ceeding from the vapours magnifying fome
fcattered (hrubs into great trees.
The iyth, we came to fome wells of
very bad water, called Oudey, where we
found frefh horfes and camels waiting for
us. Our conductor refolved to lofe no
time, being apprehenfive that we might be
overtaken in the defert by the froft and
deep fnow, which ufually happen at this
feafon. Such an event would have retard-
ed our march, and incommoded us not a
little in many refpe&s. We therefore tra-
velled as long ftages, as the convenience of
water, and the ftrength of our cattle, would
permit.
The i8th, after a long (Jay's journey, we
came to the wells called Ulan-kala. We
found, almoft every day, Mongalls in their
tents, which flood like fo many hives, dif-
perfed through this folitary plain,
The
-1720. T O P E K I N. 401
The i Qth, we mounted again, and tra-
velled to the fprings named Tzilan-tegge-
rick. This day we faw feveral flocks of
antelopes ; and, indeed, few days paffed
in which we did not fee fome of thefe ani-
mals.
The 2oth, we came to a place called
Ourandabu. The weather ftill continued
fair, the iky clear, and the mornings frofty.
The water at this place was tolerable ; but
we were obliged to dig for it. When it
happened ihat we had a long ftage from
one fpring to another, for fear of coming
too late, we ufually fent a couple of men
before us, in order to gather fewel, and to
dig pits, that the water might have time to
fettle before our arrival.
The 2 1 ft, we proceeded, and in the e-
vening arrived at a lake of fait- water. Af-
ter digging, however, we found fome frefli-
er. Were it not that thefe lakes and pits
are fcattered through this defert, it muft
have been altogether uninhabited, either by
man or beaft. This confideration, among
VOL. I. 3 E many
402 A JOURNEY 1720.
many others, has often led me to admire
the infinite wifdom of Almighty God, in
the difpenfations of his providence, for the
fupport of all his creatures.
In my opinion, thefe fprings are produ-
ced by the rains and melted fnow in the
fpring ; for the water, finking in the fand,
is thereby prevented from being exhaled,
in fummer, by the heat of the fun, which
muft be very fcorching in this defert, in
which there is not the leaft fhade to be
found.
The 22d, we quitted the fait lake, in a
cold frofty morning, and a ftrong northerly
wind, which was very difagreeable. At e-
vening we reached the wells of Kulat.
Thefe pits take their names from the qua-
lity of the water, as fait, four, fweet, bit-
ter, or from the different tribes of people
who inhabit the country in the neighbour-
hood.
In the midft of our fatigues, we had the
fatisfadion to be among a friendly people,
who
1726. T O P E K I N. 403
who did every thing in their power to lef-
fen our wants.
Next day, we reached the wells of Min-
gat. The weather, though cold, was not
unpleafant. And, the 24th, having got
frefh horfes and camels, we came, in the
evening, to a pond of brackifh water, called
Korunteer, upon the extremity of a dif-
mal bank of fand, running acrofs our road.
The day followingj we entered on the
fand-bank, along a narrow and crooked
paflage between two hillocks. Every one 1
prayed for calm weather while we travelled
over the fand ; which put me in mind of
being at fea We continued our journey
through deep fand till about noon, when
all our horfes and camels being tired, we
halted in a hollow place, where we dug,
and found very bad water. We remained
here till next morning.
Our cattle being a little refrefhed, tho*
they had been very indifferently fed among
the fand, where nothing was to be feen but
fome tufts of withered grafs, we fet out a-
gain.
404 A JOURNEY 1720.
gain. Along this bank there is not the
lead track or path of any kind ; for the
fmalleft blaft of wind immediately effaces
it, and renders all the furface fmooth.
We had gone but a few miles, when
moft of our people were obliged to alight,
and walk on foot,' the horfes being quite
tired with the deepnefs of the fand ; which
made our progrefs extremely flow. The
weather, fortunately, was ftill very calm.
About noon, we pitched our tents in a hol-
low place, encompafled with high hillocks
of fand. I obferved that, in the open de-
fert, we had /already pafled, the profpect
was much confined ; but here it was quite
ftraitened ; for, if you afcended one of thefe
mounts,- you could fee nothing but mount
rifing above mount, like fo many fugar-
loaves, or rather like fo many cupolas.
In the evening it began to blow a little
at north-eaft, which drove about the light
fand like fnow ; but, about midnight, the
wind rofe to fuch an height, that all our
tents were overfet at once, and our beds
filled
1720. TO P E K I N. 405
filled with fand. As it was near morning,
we thought it not worth while to pitch
them again. We therefore prepared our-
felves to fet out at the dawn, in hopes of
getting over the fand-bank before night ;
which, by riding and walking by turns, in
order to haften our progrefs, we happily
effected ; and, in the evening, reached the
fprings of Kochatu.
At the place where we patted the fand,
it was not above twenty Englilh miles in
breadth, which took us up three days. We
could have travelled four times that dif-
tance on the plain, with more eafe both to
ourfelves and cattle. I am informed this
bank of fand runs a great way fouthward,
and, in fome places, is above thirty leagues
broad. They, whofe bufmefs calls them
often to crofs the fands, have thin leather
coats made on purpofe, and round pieces
of glafs tied before their eyes.
This fand-bank appears like the waves
^f the fea ; for the hillocks, fome of which
are about twenty feet of perpendicular
height,
406 A JOURNEY 1720.
height, are of fo light a nature, that the
wind carries them from place to place, le-
velling one, and forming another: And
hence it is eafy to conceive, that a weary
traveller, lying down on the lee-fide of one
of thefe hillocks, might, in a few hours,
be buried in the fand ; which is reported
to have often happened in this and other
fandy deferts.
The 28th, we proceeded along the plain
to the fprings called Chabertu. I cannot
but take notice of the uncommon manner
the people here have of killing their fheep.
They make a flit with a knife between two
ribs, through which they put their hand,
and fqueeze the heart till the creature ex-
pire ; by this method all the blood remains
in the carcafe. When the flieep is dead,
and hungry people cannot wait till the
flefti is regularly drefTed, they generally
cut out the bifcuit and rump, wool and all,
and broil them on the coals ; then fcrape
off the finged wool and eat them. This I
have found by experience to be no difa-
greeable
1720. T O P E K I N. 407
greeable morfel, even without any kind of
fauce.
The next day we travelled another ftage
to the wells of Saminfa, where we found
better water than ufual. The length and
thicknefs of the grafs fhowed that the foil
now began to mend. This day there fell
fome fnow, and the wind was cold and
northerly.
The 3Oth, we got frefli horfes, and pro-
ceeded to the fprings of Krema. From
the appearance of the grafs one would
conclude, that the foil at this place was
very fine. We faw great numbers of hor-
fes belonging to the Emperor turned out to
graze. Notwithftanding all the hafte we
had hitherto made, we were this day over-
taken by a fall of fnow, which proved
very inconvenient, not fo much on account
of the cold, but it covered all fewel, fo that
we could find none to drefs our victuals.
The 3 1 ft, we came to a place called
NaringkarufTu, where, to our great fatis-
fadion, we found a fmall brook of frefli
water,
4 o8 A JOURNEY i 720 .
water, and fome Mongalian huts. I ob-
ferved, that, from the fand-bank eaftward,
the foil becomes gradually better every
day. This was now the fortieth day fmce
we left the border ; during which time we
had not halted one day, nor feen a tingle
houfe, and the twentieth and eight from
the time we quitted the river Tola, and
entered the defert, in which we had nei-
ther feen river, tree, bufh, nor mountain.
Though we were obliged now and then to
fetch a compafs, on account of the water-
ing places, yet in general our courfe devi-
ated but little from the fouth-eaft point.
The i ft of November, we halted at this
place, that we might have time to put
things in order before we pafled the long
wall, which was now at no great diftance.
Next day we proceeded, and about noon
we could perceive the famous wall, running
along the tops of the mountains, towards
the north-eaft- One of our people cried
out Land, as if we had been all this while
at fea. It was now, as nearly as I can
compute,
1720. tO P E K I N. 409
compute, about forty Englifli miles from
us, and appeared white at this diftance.
We could not this night reach the paflage
through the mountains, and therefore
pitched our tents in the open plain as
ufual. We now began to feel the effects
of the cold ; for the fnow, continuing to
lie upon the defert, proved very incon-
venient on many accounts, but particularly
by retarding the progrefs of our heavy and
cumberfome baggage. But we comforted
ourfelves with the hopes of foon feeing an
end of all our toils, and arriving in a rich
and inhabited country ; for, though all of
our people were in good health, they be-
gan to be very weary of the defert, and no
wonder, as many of them had lain in the
open field ever fince we left Selinginfky.
November 3d, after travelling about an
hour we pafled the veftiges of a camp,
which feemed to have been regularly de-
figned. I was informed that the Emperor
encamped here, when he led his troops a-
VOL. I. 3 F gainft
410 A JOURNEY 1720.
gainft the Mongalls, called by the million*
aries in China the Weftern Tartars.
The nearer we came to the mountains
we were the more furprifed at the fight of
the fo much celebrated wall of China, com-
monly called for its length the endlefs wall.
The appearance of it, running from one
high rock to another, with fquare towers
at certain intervals, even at this diftance, is
moft magnificent.
About noon, xve quitted the plain, and
entered an opening between two moun-
tains. To the left, the mountains are very
high. On the right, they decline as far as
they are within view ; but, I am told, they
rife again to a great height.
We defcended by a narrow path about
eight feet broad, between the mountains,
till we came to a fmall Chinefe monaftery,
fituated on the declivity of a fteep rock.
Curiofity led us to vifit this folitary place :
But the road being impaflable to horfes,
we alighted and walked thither. On our
arriving near the place, the monks came
out
1720. TO P E K I N. 411
out to meet us, with the ufual friendly fa-
lutation of the country, which is perform-
ed by laying one of their hands on the o-
ther, and then ihaking them, and pro-
nouncing thefe words Cho-loy-cho. The
compliment being returned, they conduct-
ed us into the apartments of their little
chapel, and treated us with a difh of green
tea, which was very agreeable. In the
chapel was a fort of altar-piece, on which
were placed feveral fmall brafs images ;
and, in one of the corners, I obferved a
fack filled with wheat. The habit of the
monks was a long gown with wide fleeves.
On their heads was a fmall cap, and their
long lank hair hung down over their fhoul-
ders. They had very few hairs in their
beards. This being 1 the firft Chinefe houfe
we met with, I have en that account been
more, particular in defcribing it. Every
thing now appeared to us as if we had ar-
rived in another world. We felt efpecial-
ly a fenfible alteration in the weather ; for,
inilead
412 AJOURNEY 1720.
inftead of the cold bleak wind in the defert,
we had here a warm and pleafant air.
We again proceeded along the narrow
path, but of breadth fufficient for a wheel-
carriage. The road being fteep, and in
many places rugged, we walked down the
hill, and in half an hour came to the foot
of it, where we found ourfelves furround-
ed on all fides by high rocky mountains.
Our route now lay along the fouth fide of
a rivulet, full of great ftones, which had
fallen from the rocks in rainy weather. In
the cliffs of the rocks you fee little fcatter-
ed cottages, with fpots of cultivated ground,
much refembling thofe romantic figures of
landfcapes which are painted on the China
ware, and other manufactures of this coun-
try. Thefe are accounted fanciful by moft
Europeans, but are really natural.
After we had travelled about feven or
eight miles, along the bank of the brook,
we came in the evening to a Chinefe vil-
lage, at the foot of a high mountain, where
we lodged in clean rooms, with warm fires
of
TO P E K I N. 413
of charcoal. There were no chimneys in
the rooms ; but, inftead of thefe, the char-
coal was put into a portable grate of brafs
or iron, and allowed to burn clear in the
open air ; after which it was brought into
the apartment. Though the defert is one
continued plain, it lies much higher than
the plains and villages of China ; for, when
we entered the defile, the afcent was very
inconfiderable when compared with the
defcent on the othe'r fide.
Here we began to tafte of the fine fruits
of China ; for foon after our arrival in the
village, our conductor fent a prefent to the
ambaflador of fome bafkets of fruits, con-
fiding of water-melons, mufk-melons,
fweet and bitter oranges, peaches, apples,
walnuts, chefnuts, and feveral other forts
which I never faw before, together with a
jar of Chinefe arrack, provifions of feveral
forts, and fome Chinefe bread, called bobon,
made of wheaten flour, and baked over a
pot with the fteam of boiling- water. It is
very light, and not difagreeable in tafte ; at
leaft
4 i4 A JOURNEY 1720.
leaft it feemed fo to us, who had feen no
bread for a month before.
Next day we halted to refrefh ourfelves
after our long fatigue. I took this oppor-
tunity to walk up to the top of the moun-
tain, in order to view the adjacent coun-
try, but could only fee a continuation of
the chain of mountains, rifmg one above
another, and to the northward fome
glimpfes of the long wall as it runs along
them.
The jth, we proceeded eaftward down
the fouth bank of a river, whofe channel
was covered with great ftones. The road
is cut out of the rock for a confiderable
length at thofe places where there is no
natural pafiage between the rocks and the
river, which muft have been a work of
great labour. This river cannot fail to be
a complete torrent in time of great rains.
Having travelled about fix or eight miles,
we arrived at the famous wall of China.
We entered at a great gate, which is ihut
every night, and always guarded by a
thoufand
1720. T O P E K I N. 415
thoufand men, under the command of two
officers of diftindion, one a Chinefe, and
the other a Mantzur Tartar ; for it is an
eftablifhed cuftom in China, and has pre-
vailed ever fince the conqueft of the Tar-
tars, that in all places of public truft there
muft be a Chinefe and a Tartar inverted
with equal power. This rule is obferved
both in civil and military affairs. The
Chinefe pretend, that two in an office are
a fort of fpies upon one another's actions,
and thereby many fraudulent practices are
either prevented or detected.
CHAP.
4i6 A JOURNEY
CHAP. VIII.
From the Wall of China to Pek'm
our Entry into that City.
A S foon as we had entered the gate,
* * thefe two officers, and many fubal-
terns, came to compliment the ambaflador
on his fafe arrival ; and afked the favour
of him to walk into the guard-room and
drink a dim of tea. We accordingly dif-
mounted, and went into a fpacious hall on
the fouth fide of the gate. This apartment
was very clean, having benches all around,
and is kept on purpofe for the reception of
perfons of diftin&ion. We were entertain-
ed
1720. TO P E K I N. 417
ed with variety of fruits and confections,
and feveral forts of tea. After ftaying a-
bout half an hour, the ambaflador took
leave of the gentlemen, and we proceeded
on our journey. We travelled about four
miles farther, and came to a confiderable
town named Kalgan. At fome diftance
from the place we were met by the com-
^
mandant, and the Mandarin Tulimin, who
had paid us a vifit at Selinginfky. They
accompanied the ambaflador to his lodg-
ings, which were in houfes apart from the
reft of the town ; and provifions were fent
us in great plenty.
From the wall to this place the country
to the north begins to open, and contains
fome 'villages, corn-fields, and gardens.
The fame evening, the ambaflador and
the gentlemen of the retinue were invited
to fup at the commandant's houfe, and hor-
fes were fent to carry us thither. We a-
lighted in the outer- court, where the com-
mandant in perfon waited for us, and
conducted us through a neat inner-court
VOL. I. 3 G into
4 i8 A JOURNEY 1720.
into a hall, in the middle of which flood a
large brafs chaffing- dim, in fhape of an urn,
with a fire of charcoal in it. The floor was
covered with mats, and the room quite fet
round with chairs, and little fquare japan-
ned tables. The ambaffador fat at a table
by himfelf, and the reft of the company at
feparate tables, by two and two. We were
firft entertained with tea, and a dram of
hot arrack ; after which fupper was brought,
and placed on the tables, without either ta-
ble-cloth, napkins, knives, or forks. In-
ftead of forks were laid down to every per-
ibn a couple of ivory pins, with which the
Chinefe take up their meat. The dimes
were fmall, and placed upon the table in
the moft regular manner, the vacancies
being rilled with faucers, containing pickles
and bitter herbs. The entertainment con-
fifted of pork, mutton, fowls, and two
roafted pigs. The carver fits upon the
floor, and executes his office with great
dexterity. He cuts the flefh into fuch
frnall bits, as may eafily be taken up by the
guefts,
1720. TO P E K I N. 419
guefts, without further trouble. The meat
being cut up is given to the footmen, who
fupply the empty difhes on the tables. The
whole is ferved in China-ware, and neither
gold nor filver is to be feen. All the fer-
vants perform their duty with the utmoft
regularity, , and without the leaft noife. I
muft confefs, I was never better pleafed
with any entertainment.
The victuals being removed, the defert
was placed on the tables in the fame order,
and cdnfifted of a variety of fruits and gon-
fections. In the mean time a band of mu-
fic was called in, which confided of ten or
twelve performers, on various but chiefly
wind-inftruments, fo different from thofe
of that clafs in Europe, that I fhall not pre-
tend to defcribe them. The mufic was
accompanied with dancing, which was very
entertaining. The dancers were nearly as
numerous as the muficians. Their per-
formances were only a kind of gefticula-
tion, confiding of many ridiculous pof-
tures ; for they feldom moved from the
fame
420 A JOURNEY 1720.
fame place. The evening being pretty far
fpent, we took leave, and returned to our
lodgings.
The 6th, a great fall of fnow, and a
cold frofty wind, obliged us to halt at this
place.
Next day, the froft and fnow ftill conti-
nued ; notwithstanding we fet out, and
pafled over a ftone-bridge near this place,
paved, not with fmall ftones, but with
large, fquare, free ftones, neatly joined.
After travelling eaftward about thirty En-
glifh miles, we reached a large and popu-
lous city called Siang-fu. We were met
without the gate by fome of the principal
inhabitants, and conducted to our lodg-
ings.
When we arrived, the governour was out
a- hunting with one of the Emperor's fons.
As foon as he returned in the evening, he
waited on the ambaflador, and compli-
mented him in a very polite manner, ex-
cufir.g himfelf for not waiting on him foon-
er. At iht fame time, he gave his Excel-
lency
T O P E K I N. 421
lency a formal invitation to fupper ; for it
is appointed by the court that foreign am-
bafladors ftiould be magnificently enter-
tained in all the towns through which they
pafs : But the ambaflador, being fomewhat
indifpofed, defired to be excufed.
Our route this day was through a fine
champaign country, well cultivated, but
containing very few trees. We paffed fer
veral fmall towns, and many villages, well
built, and inclofed with walls. The roads
were well made, and in good order, run-
ning always in ftraight lines where the
ground will allow. I had heard a great
deal of the order and oeconomy of thefe
people, but found my information far fhort
of what I daily faw in all their works and
actions. The ftreets of every village run
in ftraight lines.
Upon the road we met with many tur-
rets, called poft-houfes, erected at certain
diftances from one another, with a flag-
ftaff, on which is hoifled the imperial pen-
dant. Thefe places are guarded by a few
foldiers,
422 A JOURNEY 1720.
foldiers, who run a-foot from one poft to
another with great fpeed, carrying letters
or defpatches that concern the Emperor.
The turrets are fo contrived as to be in
fight of one another ; and, by fignals, they
can convey intelligence of any remarkable
event. By this means the court is inform-
ed, in the fpeedieft manner imaginable, of
whatever difturbance may happen in the
moft remote provinces of the empire. Thefe
pofts are alfo very ufeful, by keeping the
country free from highwayman ; forfhould
a perfon efcape at one houfe, on a fignal
being made, he would certainly be flopped
at the next. The diftance of one poft-
houfe from another is ufually five Chinefe
H or miles, each li confiding of five hun-
dred bow lengths. I compute five of their
miles to be about two and an half En-
glifh.
The 8th, we halted at this place. As
we could not be prefent at the entertain-
ment to which we were invited laft night
by the governour, he had refolved that the
delicacies
I 7 ao. TO P E K I N. 423
delicacies prepared on that occafion fhould
not be loft, and therefore fent into our
court twelve tables, whereon were placed,
by a number of people, all the victuals that
were drefled the preceding night with the
defert, and feveral forts of tea. The whole
was afterwards brought into the hall, and
there placed in form upon the tables.
When this was done, an officer of diftinc-
tion came to defire the ambafTador to tafte
of his Imperial Majefty's bounty. We ac-
cordingly fat down at the tables in great
order. Every thing was very good, but
moftly cold, having been carried through
the ftreets to fome diftance. After we had
removed from the table, the perfon who
had the direction of the entertainment,
called our fervants, and ordered them to fit
down at the tables and eat. This produced
a very diverting fcene ; but, had it not
been complied with, the governour would
have thought himfelf highly affronted.
In the evening, the Emperor's third fon
went through this city, on his way towards
the
424 A JOURNEY
the capital. He was carried upon mens
fhoulders in a palankin, a vehicle very eafy
for the traveller, and well known in Euro-
pean fettlements in India. The Emperor's
fons have no other names than thofe of
firft, fecond, third, &c. This prince had
only a fmall retinue of a few horfemen.
Our new conductor, Tulifhin, invited
the ambaflador and his retinue to pafs the
evening at his lodgings. His Excellency
excufed himfelf, as he had not been at the
governour's. All the gentlemen, however,
accepted the invitation. The entertain-
ment was elegant, and fomething like that
I formerly defcribed, accompanied with
dancing and mufic, and quail- fighting. It
is furprifing to fee how thefe little birds fly
at one another as foon as they are fet upon
the table, and fight, like game-cocks, to
death. The Chinefe are very fond of this
diverfion, and bet as high on their quails as
the Englifh do on cccks. They are alfo
great lovers of cock-fighting ; but it is
reckoned among the vulgar fports. The
quails
1720. TO P E K I N. 425
quails are generally parted before they hurt
one another too much, and referved in
cages till another occafipn.
The 9th, having fent off the baggage in
the morning, the ambaflador returned the
governour's vifit. We only flaid to drink
tea ; after which we immediately mount-
ed, and purfued our journey to a fmall
town called Juny, where we arrived in the
evening. Near this place is "a deep rock,
ftariding on a plain, inacceffibleon all fides,
except to the weft, where a narrow wind-
ing path is cut in the rock, which leads to
a Pagan temple and nunnery built upon
the top of it. Thefe edifices make a pretty
appearance from the plain ; and, as the
ftory goes, were built from the foundation
in one night by a lady, on the following
occafion. This lady was very beautiful,
virtuous, and rich, and had many powerful
princes for her fuitors. She told them, me
intended to build a temple and a mona-
fiery of certain ciimenfions, with her own
hands, in one night, on the top of this
VOL. 1. 3 H rock ;
426 A JOURNEY 1720,
rock ; and whoever would undertake to
build a ftone-bridge over a river in the
neighbourhood, in the fame fpace of time,
him (he promifed to accept for a hufband.
All the lovers having heard the difficult
tafk impofed on them, returned to their re-
fpecYive dominions, except one ftranger,
who undertook to perform the hard con-
dition. The lover and the lady began
their labour at the fame time, and the lady
completed her part before the light appear-
ed ; but as foon as the fun was rifen, fhe
faw from the top of the rock, that her lo-
ver had not half-finimed his bridge, ha-
ving raifed only the pillars for the
arches. Failing, therefore, in his part
of the performance," he alfo was obliged
to depart to his own country ; and the
lady pafied the remainder of her days in
her own monaftery.
The river is about a quarter of a mile
from the rock, and the pillars ftill remain
about five or fix feet above the water ;
they are fix or eight in number, and godd
lubftantial
I 7 ao. T O P E K I N. 427
jfubftantial work. This tale I relate as a
fpecimen of many fabulous ftories, which I
heard every day, and the people firmly be-
lieve. In the monaftery there are at pfe-
fent many m.onks and nuns.
The chain of mountains running to the
north, which bound this plain to the weft,
are .very high, rugged, and barren. Their
breadth from the defert to the plain habi-
table country of China, I compute not to
exceed fifteen or twenty miles, and in ma-
ny places it is much lefs. But their length,
lam informed, is above one thoufand En-
glim miles. They encompafs all, or the
greateft part of the empire of China, to the
north and weft. Thefe impregnable bul-
warks, together with the almoft impaflable
deferts, have, in my opinion, fo long pre-
ferved this nation from being over-run by
the weftern heroes. One would imagine,
that a country, fo fortified by nature, had
little need of fuch a ftrong wall for its de-
fence ; for, if all the pafles of the moun-
tains are as narrow and difficult as that
where
428 AJOURNEY 1720.
where we entered, a fmall number of men
might defend it againft a mighty army.
Jimy is but a fmall place ; it fuffered
greatly by the earthquake that happened
in the month of July the preceding year,
above one half of it being thereby laid in
ruins. Indeed, more than one-half of the
towns and villages through which we tra-
velled this day had fuffered much on the
fame occafion, and vaft numbers of people
had been buried in the ruins. I muft con-
fefs, it was a difmal fcene to fee every
where fuch heaps ofrubbifh.
All the beft houfes being thrown down
by the earthquake, we were lodged in the
priefts apartments of a temple, which had
efcaped the general devaluation. Our con-
ductor treated the monks with very Jittle
ceremony, and deflred them to feek other
lodgings for themfelves. Thefe priefts
were not at all fuperftitious, as appeared
fufliciently from the little reverence they
paid to their idols, and ftatues of reputed
faints. They conducted us into the
temple,
1720. TO P E K I N.
temple, and feveral apartments adjoining,
where flood many images of faints, fome
of which were monftrous figures of flone
and plaifter. One of the priefts gave us
the hiftory of fome of them, which I
thought too abfurd to be inferted. We
then returned into the temple, which was
a fmall but neat building. In one end of
it we faw an altar, rifing by fteps to the
cieling, on which were placed a number
of fmall images, caft chiefly in brafs, re-
fembling men and women, birds and hearts.
We were entertained in the temple with
tea till the priefts had removed their beds.
At the entrance is hung a large bell, at-
tended by a prieft, who tolls it on feeing
paflengers, in order to invite them to fay
their prayers ; which having done, they
generally leave a fmall gratuity to the
temple.
In the night, we were a little alarmed
with the fliock of an earthquake, which
awakened all our people, but did no da-
mage.
Next
4-jo A JOURNEY 1720.
Next day, our conductor notified to the
ambafiador, that he could proceed no far-
ther till he received an anfwer to fome
defpatches he had fent to court. Thefe
news were not altogether agreeable, as we
apprehended another fhock of an earth-
quake. Nothing, however, of that kind
happened during the two days we were
obliged to remain at this place.
The 1 2th, we continued our journey to
a little town, where we lodged. This, and
moft of the towns and villages through
which we pafled to day, had fuffered great-
ly by the earthquake ; particularly one
confiderable walled town, where very few
houfes remained, and the walls were level-
led with the ground.
About noon, next day, we came to a
large* populous, and well built city, with
broad ftreets, as ftraight as a line. Near
this place runs a fine river, which appears
navigable, having acrofs it a noble ftone
bridge, of feveral arches, and paved with
large fquare ftones. In the evening, we
arrived
* 7 2ol tO P- E K I NT. 431 1
arrived at a fmall town, after paffing
through a very pleafant and fruitful coun-
try.
On the J4th, we halted at this little
town : But our baggage, and his Majefty's
prefents, advanced a ftage farther. . Thefe,
by order of the Mandarin, our conductor,
were carried on men's fhoulders, covered
with pieces of yellow filk, as every thing is
which hath any connection with the court.
Whatever is diftinguifhed by this badge is
looked on as facred ; and he who has the
care of any thing belonging to the Empe-
ror needs no other protection ; fuch is the
reverence paid him all over the empire.
The yellow colour is chofen by the Empe-
ror, becaufe, among the Chinefe, it is the
emblem of the fun, to which he is com-
pared.
The following day, our road, lying over
fome rocks, was very rugged. In fome
places it was cut, for a confiderable length,
above twenty feet deep, through the folid
jock, which appears to have been a work
of
A JOURNEY 1720,
of great labour and expence. But no
people I ever faw take fuch pains to make
their ftreets and high-ways eafy to travel-
lers as the Chinefe. In fome places of the
rocks were cut out images of Chinefe
faints ; but the workmanmip very mean.
Near this place, we pafTed through fix
or eight ftrong femicircular walls within
one another, which have the endlefs wall
for their common diameter, and take in a
great compafs. In all thefe walls there are
large well built gates, guarded by a con-
ftant watch, both in times of peace and
war. At one of them, the ambaflador was
faluted with three great guns, from a tower
over the gate-way. Thefe walls feem to
be of the fame materials and architecture
with the long wall, having fquare towers
at the diftance of a bow-mot from each
other. While we flopped at one of the
gates to refrefh ourfelves, I took the op-
portunity to walk into one of thefe towers,
where I faw fome hundreds of old iron
cannon thrown together as ufelefs. On
examination
I 7 2o. T O P E K I N. 433
examination I found them to be compofed
of three or four pieces of hammered iron,
joined, and faftened together with hoops
of the fame metal. The Chinefe have,
however, now learned to caft as fine brafs
cannon as are any where 'to be found.
From this tower I was led, by a broad
ftone ftair, to the top of the wall, which is
above twenty feet ,jn breadth, and paved
with large fquare ftones, clofely joined,
and cemented with ftrong mortar. I walk-
ed along this flat, till I came to a rock,
where I found a high ftair of above a
thoufand fteps, the whole breadth of the
wall, which led to a tower on the fummit,
from whence I could fee like a ftair, on
the other fide, forming a defcent to a nar-
row paflage between two rocks. 1 obferved
alfo, that the wall was neither fo high nor
broad where it was carried over another
rock to the fouth-weft, as at the place where
I ftood. But time not allowing me to go
farther, I returned by the fame way to our
company ; and, after (laying a few hours,
VOL. I. 3 I we
434 A JOURNEY 172.
we proceeded this afternoon to the town of
Zulinguang, where we lodged.
The next day, after travelling about two
hours, we came to the laft femicircular
wall. Here ended all the hills and moun-
tains. Our road now lay through a fine
champaign country, interfperfed with many
fmall towns and villages. In the even-
ing, we reached a large . neat city, called
Zang- ping' jew. In the market place flood
a triumphal arch, whereon were hung a
number of dreamers, and filken pendants,
of various colours. The ftreets were clean,
^ilraight, and broad ; in fome places cover-
. ed with gravel, in others paved with flat
fquare (tones.
* r
As foon as we reached our lodgings, the
governour of the place came to felute the
ambaflador, and invited him to an enter-
tainment, prepared by order of his Ma-
jefty.
The invitation was accepted, and we im-
mediately went to the governour's palace.
The entertainment was very magnificent,
fome-
1720. TO P E K I N. 435
fomewhat of the fame kind with that I for-
merly defcribed, and accompanied with
mufic and dancing. This place is fituated
in a fruitful plain, about thirty Englifh
miles northward of Pekin.
The 1 7th, after travelling about a dozen
bf miles* we came to a fmall town called
Shach. The weather being very fine and
warm, the governour came to meet the
ambaflfador, and defired him to refrefh
himfelf a little, by drinking tea. Here we
halted about an hour, and then proceeded
fix or eight miles farther, to a fmall vil-
lage, about four miles from the capital,
where we lodged.
Next morning, two mandarins came
from court, to congratulate the ambaflador
on his arrival, and brought fome horfes, on
which he and his retinue were to make
their entry. The furniture of the horfes
was very fimple, and far inferior to the
coftly trappings of the Perfians.
My lodgings in this village happened to
be at a cook's houfe, which gave me an
oppor-
436 A JOURNEY 1720.
opportunity of obferving the ingenuity of
thefe people, even on trifling occafions.
My landlord being in his (hop, I paid him.
a vifit* where I found fix kettles, placed in
a row on furnaces, having a feparate open-
ing under each of them, for receiving the
fewel, which confifted of a few fmall flicks
and ftraw. On his pulling a thong, he
blew a pair of bellows, which made all his
kettles boil in a very mort time. They are
indeed very thin, and made of cad iron,
being extremely fmooth, both within and
without. The fcarcity of fewel, near fuch
a populous city, prompts people to con-
trive the eafieft methods of dreffing their
victuals, and keeping themfclves warm du-
ring the winter, which is fevere for two
months.
About ten of the clock, we mounted,
and proceeded towards the city, in the fol-
lowing order :
An
1720. TO P E K I N. 437
An officer, with his fword drawn.
Three foldiers.
One kettle-drummer.
Twenty- four foldiers, three in rank.
The fteward.
Twelve footmen.
Two pages.
Three interpreters.
The ambaflador, and a mandarin of di-
ftinction.
Two fecretaries.
Six gentlemen, two and two.
Servants and attendants.
The whole retinue was drefied in their
beft apparel. The foldiers in uniform,
carrying their mufkets like horfemen ftand-
ing centry ; drawn fwords being refufed by
our conductor, the officer only had that
privilege.
We travelled from the village, along a
fine road, through a cloud of duft, and
multitudes of fpe&ators ; and, in two
hours, entered the city at the great north
gate;
A JOURNEY 1726.
gate ; which opened into a fpacious ftreet,
perfectly ftraight, as far as the eye-fight
could reach. We found it all fprinkled
with water, which was very refrefhing,
after the duft we had pafled through.
A guard of five hundred Chinefe horfe-
men was appointed to clear the way ; not-
withftanding which, we found it very dif-
-ficult to get through the crowd. One
would have imagined all the people in Pe-
kin were aflembled to fee us ; though I was
informed that only a fmall part of the in-
habitants of the city were prefent. I ob-
V
ferved alfo great crowds of women unveil-
ed ; but they kept in the windows, doors,
and in corners of the ftreet. The foldiers
did not behave with roughnefs to the peo-
ple, as in fome other places of the eaft, but
treated them with great mildnefs and hu-
manity. Indeed the people, of themielves,
made as much way as was pofiible for
them, confidering their numbers. After a
march of two hours, from the gate where
we entered, we atlaftcameto our lodgings,
in
TO P E K I N. 439
in that part of the city called the Tartar's
town, which is near the center of Pekin,
and not far from the Emperor's palace.
We lodged in what is called the Ruffia-
houfe. It was allotted, by the prefent Em-
peror, for the accommodation of the cara-
vans from Mofcovy, and is furrounded
with a high wall of brick, which inclofes
three courts. The firft from the ftreet is
appointed for the guard of Chinefe foldiers.
The fecond is a fpacious fquare, on the
fides whereof are apartments for fervants.
The third is divided from the fecond by a
high brick-wall, thro' which you enter by a
great gate. Oppofite to this gate is the
great hall, which rifes^a few fteps above the
level of the court. The floor is neatly
paved with white and black marble ; and,
on the fame floor, to the right and lefc of
the hall, are two fmall bed-chambers. This
hall was occupied by the ambaflador. In
the fame court are two large houfes, -divi-
ded into apartments, in which the retinue
was lodged. All thefe ftru&ures are but of
one
440 A JOURNEY 1720.
one ftorey, with large windows of lettice-
work, on which is pafted white paper. Tht
cielings are very flight and airy, confifting
only of ftrong laths, with reeds laid acrofs
them, and done over on the infide with
paper. The roofs project confiderably o-
ver the walls, and are covered with fine
light glazed tiles, which, as far as I could
learn, are of a quality to laft ages. The
bed-chambers only of the hall are neatly
finimed with lath and plaifter.
The fame evening, the mafter of the ce-
remonies came to compliment' the ambaf-
fador. He, in the Emperor's name, inqui-
red into the chief fubjet of his commif-
flon ; and, having received a fatisfactory
anfwer, retired.
This gentleman, named Aloy, was by
birth a Mongall Tartar, and a great favou-
rite of the Emperor. He was a perfon of
great politenefs, and a good friend to the
Chriftians, efpecially the miflionaries, who
received frefli marks of his kindnefs every
day. In his youth he converfed much with
" the
. TO P E K I N. 441
the Jefuits, who taught him geography,
and fome other branches of fcience ; which
contributed not a little to raife his charac-
ter among the Chinefe, and recommend
him to the notice and favour of the Em-
peror.
Thus, we happily arrived at the famous
and long wimed for city of Pekin, the ca-
pital of this mighty empire, after a tedious
journey of exactly fixteen months. It is
indeed very long, yet may be performed in
much lefs time. I am of opinion that tra-
vellers might go from St Peterfburgh to
Pekin, and return, in the fpace of fix
months, which, were it neceflary, I think I
could eafily demonftrate.
After the departure of the mafter of the
ceremonies, the aleggada, or prime minifter,
fent an officer to falute the ambafiador, and
excufe himfelf for not paying him a vifit
immediately, as it was then late in the
night, but promifed to fee him next day.
At the fame time, he fent great variety of
fruits and provifions, as a mark of refpect^
VOL. I. 3 K not-
442 A JOURNEY 172*.
notwithftanding we were abundantly fup-
plied with thefe things by thofe appointed
for that purpofe.
At ten of the clock at night, the officer
on guard in the outer- court locked our
gate, and fealed it with the Emperor's feal,
that no perfon might go out or come in
during the night. The ambafifador, not
approving of this proceeding, as foon as
the gate was opened in the morning, fent
his fecretary, and an interpreter, to the
prime minifter, to complain of his being
confined. The aleggada faid he was alto-
gether ignorant of what had happened, but
exprefsly forbid any fuch behaviour for the
future. In Perfia, indeed, and fome other
nations of the eaft, it is the cuftom to re-
ftrain foreign minifters from converfing
with the inhabhants, tillthey have had an
audience of the Prince. (**~ 3
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