MEMOIRS OF THE COURTS OF BERLIN, DRESDEN, WARSAW, AND VIENNA, IN THE YEARS 1777, 1778, AND 1779. By N. WILLIAM WRAXALL, Efq. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. THE SECOND EDITION. ;> LONDON: Printed ly A. Strahan, Printers- Street, t. CADELL JUN. AND W. DATIES, STRAND. 1 8 00. a PREFACE nnHESE Memoirs were originally col- lected, with a view to publication ; but, a reluctance to the difclofure of anec- dotes and facts relative to fo many diftin- guifhed living characters, induced me to poftpone the accomplifhment of my in- tention, to a diftant period. The lapfe of more than twenty years has fully eman- cipated me from thofe reftraints ; the de- ceafe of the King of Poland, and of the Archduchefs Chriftina, both which took place during the courfe of laft year, having withdrawn the only remaining impedi- A a merits IV n PREFACE. ments to their appearance. The clepofition, added to the misfortunes of Staniflaus, rendered him peculiarly facred j and had he been ftill alive, I fhculd yet have de- layed publishing thefe Memoirs. However remote the time may appear fmce they were written, I have ftill chofen to be wholly filent on many points, equally curious and interefting. The perfonages themielves, to whom that remark applies, are either dead, or forgotten ; and motives of refpect induce me to let them remain in oblivion. In unveiling the errors, or difclofmg.the foibles, of Princes and of Minifters, we muft confider them as incident to the frail- ties and infirmities, infeparable from human nature. But, their greateft faults will be obliterated, when compared with the atro- cities, PREFACE. V cities, and contrafted with the excefies, of the prefent felf-created Sovereigns of France. How moderate will appear the ambition of Jofeph the Second, in the affair of the Bavarian fucceflion ; and how mild muft be accounted the moft defpotic acts of Fre- deric, towards the Saxons, or the Poles ; on a comparifon with the flagitious enor- mities now committed, under the banner of Liberty and Equality, in Switzerland, in Rome, and in Piedmont ! Even in their mod arbitrary proceedings, Jofeph and Frederic refpected the rights of human nature, of religion, and of nations. In the conduct of the " Directory," we ex- perience their emancipation from all . re- ftraints of private honor, of public faith, and of moral obligation. They have made the bed apology for defpotifm, as well A3 as VI PREFACE. as for fuperftition ; and have compelled us to look back with envy or regret, to ages of the earth, which the philofophy of the prefent time has endeavoured to re- prefent, as only deferving of oblivion, or worthy of compaffion. CHESTERFIELD STREET, BERKELEY SQUARF, 2, 1799. CONTENTS LETTER I. NECDOTES of Frederic the Second, Landgrave of He/e. Hanover. Elect refs Sophia. Sophia Dorothea, Princefs of Zell, wife to George the Firji. Relation of the principal circwnflances attending her imprifonment, and the death of Count Konigfmark. Examination of that tranf- afiion. Particulars of the laft illnefs and death of King George the Firji^ - - Page i LETTER II. Defer ipthn cf the Cqftle of Ahlden. Reflections on the death and hi/lory of Sophia Dorothea, Princefs of Zell and of Hanover. Caftle of Zell. Account of the Dani/h Revolution in 1772. Particulars' of the arreft of Caroline Matilda } V11I CONTENTS. Matilda, (ucen of Denmark, of Count Stntenfef, and of Brandt. Removal of the Queen to Zelf. Her loft illnefs and death . Detail of tbofz events. Reflections on her character and mif- foftunes.* .... Page 41 LETTER III. Bnmfwic. Reigning Duchefs of Brunfaic Wolfenbuttk. Berlin. Defer iption of that capital. - - > 90 LETTER IV. Examination of the Char after and Actions, of Frederic the Second, King of Pruffla. \ 04 LETTER V. Review of the pr'mcipal campaigns of Frederic the Second. Mollwitz. Anecdote of Marfhal Ncu- perg.- L o\vojztz. Battleof Prague. Anfccfoes refpccling it. Character of Marjhal Daun, Particulars of the battle of Colin. Rojbach. - Lijja. Siege of Ohnutz. Zorndcrf. -Battle of. Hohkirchen. Death of Marjhal Keith. Par- ticulars of the battle of Gunerfdarf. Surrender of Finch, at Maxen. Landft>ttt.> Lignite. Batile of Torgau.-^Defperate foliation ofthoKing in CONTENTS* i j-6 1 . Death of Elizabeth, Emprcfs Freiberg. Peace vfHubertfourg. Reflections en- the King's con duff during the war, His treatment of the Saxons. Conftitution of llx P ruffian army. Foreign Troops. Defertion. s. Invalids. - - Page 152 LETTER VI. Review of the P ruffian -Hi/lory, previous to the Acccffwn of Frederic the Second. His Mar- riage. jQuce/1 of Pruffia. Character and Death of William Aitgi to which difeafe he was conflitutionally fubjecl:. In order to fupport the deception, he caufed his legs to be wrapped in flannels. This i meflage, at once embar- raffing and unexpected, threw the perfons to whom it was addrelTedj into the utmoft confirmation. But, the fpirit and decifion of Koller Banner foon furmounted Rant- zau's pretended indifpofition. Having en- treated the Queen Juliana Maria not to be alarmed, and confcious of the mo- tives from which Rantzau a&ed, Koller Banner fent his own fedan chair to the Count's houfe. It was accompanied by two grenadiers with their bayonets fixed, who had pofitive orders 'to put him into the chair at all events, and to coriducYhini to the Palace without an inflant's delay; They were authorized to ufe force, if necS*- fary ; but Rantzau, aware that refiftance was vain, fubmitted, was carded t'rfouit, and 62 MEMOIRS OF THE and performed the fervice expelled from him. Koller Banner was the animating foul of the enterprize, to whofe coolnefs, prefence of mind, and intrepidity, its fuccefs muft be principally attributed. During the whole night, while at the ball, he maintained the utmoil ferenity of de- portment, and played at the fame game of cards with Monfieur Berger, whom he im- mediately afterwards arrefted. Two circumftances which took place in the courfe of the evening, excited remark, and ought to have awakened fufpicion. The King, Queen, and their attendants, entered the ball room before ten o'clock ; but Prince Frederic, contrary to his ufual cuftom, and in fome meafure contrary to the refped due from him towards their Ma- jefties, did not arrive till more than an hour later. His countenance was flufhed, and his difordered looks betrayed the agitation of his mind. As foon as he came, the Queen advancing towards him faid, " Vous venez " d'arriver bien tard, mon frerc : Qu'avez VOUS?" COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 63 " VOU9 ?" " C'eft que j'ai eu des affaires, " Madame," replied he. " II me femble," anfwered fhe gaily, " que vous auriez " mieux fait de penfer a vos plaifirs qu'a " vos affaires, pendant une foiree de bal." The Prince made little or no reply, and the converfation ended. The other incident was flill more calculated to have alarmed Struenfee, if he had not , overlooked it, or had not omitted the neccfTary precautions for his fafety. As he was confcious of his own unpopularity, and dreaded fome corn- motion among the people, he had furround- ed the ball-room with guards, on whofe fidelity he knew or belirved he could rely. But, the officer who commanded them, having been gained by the oppofite party, changed the foldiers. The alteration was even noticed by fome of Struenfee's friends, though it did not imprefs them with fuffi- cient apprehenfion, to produce any inquiry in confequence. Between twelve and one o'clock the King quitted the room, and retired. The Queen, 6 4 Queen, who continued there to a later hour, fupped with a large party in her own box, to which Prince Frederic was not admitted nor invited. After dancing the greater part of the night with Struenfee, her Majefty and he both withdrew nearly at the fame time, about three o'clock. The company foon followed, and the two laft perfons who remained in the ball-room, were Brandt and the Countefs d'Oftein, between whom there fubiifted an attach- ment. They were engaged in converfa- tion, when the mailer of the revels went up to Brandt, and faid, " Every one is gone ; I muft order the lights to be extin- guifhed." " 1 will give directions for that purpofe," replied he ; " leave it to me." A fingular fatality feems to have attended the Queen and her friends. In order to feize upon fo numerous a body of men, many of whom, it was unqueftionable, would refift, if they were not taken by furprize, and feparately, it was requifite to attack them when unprepared and alone. The COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 65 The Countefs d'Oftein had invited a feled company of ladies and gentlemen, among whom were Struenfee and Brandt, to drink tea in her apartments, after the conclufion of the balK If this party had taken place, it would have fruftrated the plans of the Queen Dowager and her ion. They would probably have efteemed it too dan- ge:ous, to aitack feveral of the firft men in Denmark, collected together in one room, who were capable of refiftance, and might have either efcaped, or have defended thein- felves fuccefsfully. In fuch an attempt the Royal Palace, where the principal among them were lodged, muft have been ren- dered a fcene of blood and horror. Bu% one of the ladies who was invited, Ma* dame de Schimmelman, having a violent head-ach, exculed herfelf: Madame deBu- low, unwilling to go without her friend, made her excufes likewife ; and the Coun- tefs d'Oftein being then the only remain- ing female of the party, it was aban- doned. Every one retired to their re<* VOL. I. F fpediv* 66 MEMOIRS OF THE fpeclive apartments, and left the chiefs of the enterprize free to commence their ope- -rations. The moment for action was now arrived. Rantzau, without lofs of time, entering the bedchamber of the King, awoke him, and acquainted him that . there exifted a confpiracy againft his perfon and dignity, at the head of which were his wife, Stru- t-nice, and various of their aflbciates. He then beibught his Majefty to confult his own fecurity, by inftantly iigning an order for their arreft, which Rantzau tendered him ; ufmg every argument to enforce his felicitations. But, Chriftian, though feeble in mind, and taken by fur-prize, not only heiitatcd, but refilled to affix his name to the paper. The Queen Dowager and Prince Frederic were therefore called in to liia bediide ; and by means of expoilula- ticns, -fupported by exaggerated or falfe rc- prefentations of the danger which he in- curred from delay, they at length procured his relu&ant confent. He figned the or- - der, COURT OF BE&LIN, etc. 6? der, which was immediately carried into execution. Roller Banner repairing to Struenfee*s chamber, forced open the door> and feized him in his bed. He was afleep when this event took place, for which he was fo totally unprepared, that having no cloaths near the bedfide, except his mafquerade drefs, he was neceffitated to put on the Domino breeches which he had worn at the ball, for want of any others. The weather being extremely cold, he was permitted to wrap himfelf in his fur cloak, and they; then conveyed him in a coach to the citadel. While Roller Banner arrefted Struenfee, Beringmold, a man of a defpe- rate but intrepid character, accompanied by fome foldiers, entered the room in ^which Brandt was lodged* Unlike Stru- enfee, he ftarted up, feized his fword, and prepared for refiftance ; but on the foldiers> by Beringmold's orders, levelling their pieces, and threatening to fire on him, he gave up his fword, and furrendered him- F 2 felf 68 MEMOIRS OF THE felf prifoner. In the fame manner as his companion in misfortune, he was inftantly conducted under a guard, in a coach, to the citadel. Various other noblemen and gentlemen, their adherents, were at the fame time put into a (late of arreft, or had cendners placed at the door of their apart- ments. But the moft dangerous and important act of the enterprife flill remained to perform ; that of arrefting the Queen Matilda. After retiring from the ball, fhe continued ibme time in her own room, before ihe went to bed, occupied in fuckling her little daughter, who was ftill at the breaft. Struenfee's chamber being fituated directly under the Queen's, the noife made by Roller Banner in feizing his perfon, was indiflincUy heard by her Majefty. She by no means however attributed it to the real caufe. On the contrary, ima- ginihg that the difturbance was occafioned by the company, which, as me knew, was to meet in the apartment of Madame d' Oftein, and COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 6$ and which party, fhe concluded, had been transferred to Struenfee's ; me ordered one* of her women to go down, and to reqiied them to be lefs intemperate in their mirth, as they would otherwife prevent her from, taking any repofe. The woman did not return : the noife ceafed ; and the Queer* having foon retired to reft, fell into a pro- found fleep. It was about five o'clock in the morning, when fhe was awakened by a Danilh fe- male attendant, who always lay in the ad- joining room. Holding a candle in one hand, {he held out a paper to the Queen in the other, which, with marks of agita- tion, fhe requefted of her Majefty to perufe. It contained a requeft, rather than an order, couched in very concife, but very refpectful terms, ftating that " the King of Denmark, for reafons of a private nature, wiflied her to remove to one of the Royal Palaces in the country, fo* a few 'days." The Queen, in her firft furprize, had imagined that the note which fhe faw in her wo- J- 3 man's MEMOIRS OF THE hand, came from the Baron de Bu- low, her matter of the horfe ; and that its purport was to enquire, whether it was her pleafure to hunt on that day. But, no fooner had fhe caft her eye over the paper, and read its contents, with the Royal fignature annexed, than fhe inftant- ly comprehended the nature and extent of her misfortune. Confcious that if fhe could only gain accefs to the King, fhe could in a moment overturn the plans of her enemies, fhe fprung out of bed ; and without waiting to put on any thing ex- cept a petticoat and fhoes, fhe rufhed into the antichamber. There, the firft object which fhe met was Count Rantzau, feated quietly in a chair. Recollecting then her difhevelled ftate, fhe cried out, " Eloi- gnez vous, Monfieur le Comte, pour ramour de Dieu, car je ne fuis pas prefentable." She immediately ran back into her cham- ber, and haftily threw on fome cloaths, affifted by her women. On COURT- OF. BEUEINV-'etC. ft On attempting a fecond time to leave her room, (he found that Rantzau had withdrawn himfelf, but had ftationcd an officer in the door- way, who' oppofed he further pafl'age. Rendered aknoft frantic by this infult, added to her diftrefs, fhe feized him by the harr, demanding to fee Count Struerifee, or the King. ''' " Ma- i " r j i, T 7 < 3 S*'-^ i dam, laid he, " I only do my duty, ana i J ' ifr'*T i i T^U ' ~" ')0n ! f^ obey my orders. There is no Count '.' " e Struenfee now, nor can your Majefty fee . the Kinc;." Having, pufhed him afide^ O 1 1 r O 1 r fhe advanced to the door of the anti- { 1 1 .* . i chamber, where two foldiers had crofl- ed their firelocks, in order to flop heir progrefs. The Queen commanded them to let her pafs, and added promifes. of re- ward if they obeyed. Both the foldiers fell on their knees, and one of them faid in Danifh, " It is a- fad duty, but we rruiIB perform it. Our heads are anfwerabley^ we allow your Majefty to pafs." As no eric, h6wever, dared to lay hands upon'' F4 the 73 MEMOIRS OF THE the (,)ueen, fhe ftepped over the mufkets which were croffed, and ran half wild, along the ' orridofe, to the King's apart- dent. She even forced her way into it by violence ; but her enemies, aware that fhe might try to gain admittance, and juftly apprehenfive of her influence over him, had taken the precaution of removing him betimes, to another part of the Palace. Exhaufted by the agitation of her mind, and by fuch exertions of body, the Queen, attempted no further refinance. She re- turned to her own chamber, where me was aided to drefs herfelf, and informed that (he muft inftantly quit Copenhagen. Rantzau had the infolence to fay to her, alluding to his gouty feet, " Vous voyez, Madame, que mes pieds me manquent ; mais, mes bras font libres, et j'en ofrrirai un a votre Majefte, pour Paider a monter en voiture.'* She was then put into a coach, which waited for her at the door near the. chapel of the Palace. Two ladies, a maid fervant, the little Princefs her daughter, whom COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 7$ whom me fuckled, and a Major in the Damfli fervice, got into the carriage with her. They took the road to Cronfbourg, a diftance of about twenty-four miles, which, as they drove at a great rate, they foon reached, and in which fortrefs the Queen was confined. Having thus minutely related the parti- culars of that extraordinary night, it is not my intention to enter on any of the" events which followed. They were in general matters of notoriety. All Europe knows the tragical cataftrophe of Brandt and Stru- enfee ; the former of whom fufFered for his political and private connection with the Minifter and favourite of the Queen Matilda. It was not the blow given by him to Chriftian the feventh, that brought him to the block. That imprudent acl: ierved, indeed, for a pretext .on which to found the accufation ; but was not his real crime. While in prifon he was always gay, and never appeared to apprehend that he mould be put to death. His flute con- ftituted his principal rcfource, and he was MEMOIRS -Of THE accuftoroed frequently to' play the air in- .the " hours. When fhe entered the Caftle, I " met her. Letting her arms fall, as if " fatigued, fhe faid, " Mantel, I am not " well ; I am exceedingly tired, and have " paffed a reftlefs night." I brought in '* breakfaft, and fhe continued very Ian- g 4 " guidj COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 79 " guid ; but neverthelefs, made her ap- " pearance at dinner, though fhe eat little " or nothing. In the afternoon, fhe com- " plained for the firft time, that her throat " gave her pain, and felt inflamed. When " the card tables were placed in the even- " ing as ufual, fhe was too much indif- " pofed, to be able to take any part in the " diverfion. The ladies about her, pro- " pofed therefore, to have a fofa brought, " in order that fhe might lie down, and *' look on while they played. Perceiving " that the Queen was very ill, I prefumed " to offer my" advice, that fhe fhould " go immediately to bed, to which fhe " confented, and ordered her women to " undrefs her. I then implored her to " fend for Leyfer her phyfician, which fhe " at firft refufed ; but on my repeated im- " portunity, permitted me to call him in to " her affiftance. As foon as he had felt her " pulfe, he was greatly alarmed. "Mantel," ** faid the Queen to me, when he was " gone, " I atn very ill, and I fully be- " lieve 00 MEMOIRS OF TH " lieve-I mail die." Though I affected to u treat her opinion as unfounded, I was " not the lefs deeply impreiTed with a " conviction, that me was in imminent ce danger. " On the enfuing day the fymptoms ** became worfe, and upon Saturday, erup- " tions appeared all over her body. Zim- " merman, the celebrated phyfician, being " fent for from Hanover, arrived on the 44 Sunday ; but, her diforder, which was a 5 putrid fever of a very malignant nature, e already affumed the moft alarming afpect, " and left fcarcely any hopes of her re- " covery. On Monday, the Queen's voice " began to grow inarticulate, but fhe pre- " ferved her fenfes perfectly. I fat by her " Majefly continually, night and day, " though /he many times commanded me 4t to leave her, and go to reft, as I mufl 4t have need of ileep. I was however ab- " fent only a few minutes at intervals, " in order to take fome refrefliment. At " length, on the Tuefday, which was the iJ day COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 8l " day preceding her death, as all her " female attendants were exhaufted with " watching, and I was become myfelf al- " moft incapable of further exertion or " fervice, a common " Fille de Garderobe" " was permitted to attend her Majefty. " This girl was the only perfon who caught " the Queen's diftemper, though it was " certainly malignant and infectious in u a high degree. She was feized with " a violent fever, the fymptoms of " which exactly refembled thofe of the " Queen's malady ; but, after ftruggling " with it for three weeks, the^ girl re- " covered. " During the two laft days, the phyfi- " cians pronounced her Majefty's cafe " defperate and hopelefs. Her ftrength " gradually failed, her voice was quite " extincl:, and her fenfes alone remained " perfect. On Wednefday, the loth of " May, I plainly perceived her diflblution " approaching ; and that night, about ten " minutes after eleven o'clock, Ihe ex- VOL. j. p * c pired. 82 MEMOIRS OF THE " pired. Her -women would not, how-r " ever, be perfuaded that me was dead ; " they laid her head on the pillow, and " dreffed her, ftill flattering th&mfelves " that Ihe had life remaining. But fhe * c was fcarcely cold, before the body began " to change. At five o'clock on Thurfday " morning, the alteration was very per- Cf ceptible ; and all the fpots on her face " and neck, which while fhe was alive, i <{ were red or purple, afTumed a black " colour. So rapid and imiverfal a morti- " fication fucceeded, that it became im- 7 cuniary contributions from his fubjectsj fcarcely lefs fubverfive of their domeftic happinefs, than would be the utmoft feve- rity of penal laws. His vigilance, it is true, never fleeps ; and he is felt on the diftant frontier of Courland, or of Cleves, at the extremities of his dominions, almoft as much as here at Berlin. But, fo was Philip the Second, the moft odious tyrant of modern times. It is for the prefervatiori of his own greatnefs alone, that Frederic wakes. Even his pleafures are gloomy, philofophic, and , folitary. Love never in- vaded the privacy of " Sans Souci," nor foftened the auftere and cheerlefs hours of Frederic's private life. He is great, but not amiable j we render homage to his ta- lents, his reputation, and his victories : but we deiire to live under a more benign and unambitious Prince. We are pleafed to vifit Berlin, as an object of liberal curidfity; but we prefer the refidence of London, pf Vienna, or of Naples. Frederic t'o8 -MEMOIRS OF- THE"' Frederic the Second is the old eft reigning Sovereign in Europe, and has nearly com- pleted his fixty-fixth year. His r conifti- tution, naturally- found, 'if abt vigcraus, retains its force ; and his body is'aeuf- tomed to, as well as ftlll capable of great fatigue. The gout, 'and the infirmities -al- monV infeparably attendant on hi'S period of life, have indecti' enfeebled his legs; but, once on hcrfeback, and feated in the faddle, ^tf^S' equal to prodigious efforts, fuftained for i -very conffderable length of time. He is of aniiddfc fizc, inclined to thin, and he ftbops in'%$kingcr in riding. His '.face, tho^^h tew become wrinkled, ttwok'e perhaps 'by fatigues and agitations, than from 1 tfcfcGJ$ftsft& ^of age, or the efieds r of difeaf^ is CHIC of* the mod ahi- iaated andriifiKW0ftin'g- ! fever beltekl. There fe^ih it a fii-& a-nd an -intelligence, which widely diftinguifhes him from common i&tn. -Evefry fi^i^rid 1 every feature may be ftudied, and have th^ir meaning. His eye' DHS:. IS COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 109 is uncommonly clear and brilliant, though he is fo fhort-fighted, as ufually to have recourfe to a glafs, even \vhen on horfe- back. He has a bold and finely-formed, but not. an aquiline nofe. Of his hair, time has only fpared fome few thin and fcattered locks, about the crown of his head. In or^sr to fupply the want, he wears falfe curls and a long queue. Nothing can be fo fimple as his drefs, which never varies. It is indeed fcarcely exempt from the , imputation of mean- nefs, and by no means always intitled to the praife of cleanlinefs. His coat is a plain uniform of common blue cloth, with- out ornament or embroidery of any kind, On his breaft appears the ffar of the Pruffian Order of the " Black Eagle ;" but he very rarely wears the riband, or other infignia. He is always booted, as becpmes a foldier ; and thofe who fee him constantly, have fcarcely ever beheld his legs. Round his middle is tied his fafh. Charles the Twelfth of Sweden might have worn Frederic's fword, w r ithout departing from the charac- 5f- teriftic lit) MEMOIRS OF THE teriftic Simplicity of his drefs. It is a mi- litary one, perfectly unornamented, with a plain filver hilt, to which hangs a fword- knot. His hat is of a monftious fize, fur- mounted with a white Panache or plume. Either economy, or carelefihefs, or both, induce him to wear his cloaths as long a decency will permit; indeed, fometimes, rather longer. He is accuftomed to order his breeches to be mended, and his coat to be pieced under the arms. It was an im- ufual mark of attention to the Great Duke of Ruffia, when he was here laft year, that the King made up a new uniform fuit and hat, in honour of fo illuftrious a gueft. To complete the negligence of his appear- ance, he takes a great deal of fnuff, and lets no fmall portion of it flip through his thumb and fingers, upon his cloaths. It muft be owned that this cuftom gives him fometimes almoft a diigufting air. Yet, acrofs fo much neglect and contempt of external forms, I think one may eafily, without any aid of imagination, perceive the hero, the philofopher, and the King. Through COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. Ill Through every part of the royal houfe- hold, there reigns a fimilar fimplicity, which ftrongly contrafts with the exterior of Royalty in other Courts. Much of it doubtlefs originates in his diflike of fhew, and fomething muft be attributed to pecu- niary motives. In diverting himfelf of the pomp attendant on fovereign power, the King, befides the emancipation, avoids the expence connected with it; and in this part of his character, as in many others, he refembles his father, much more than his grandfather. Frederic the Firft, the moft oftentatious, expeniive, and magnifi- cent of Princes, delighted in the pageantry and ceremonial of a Court. Frederic William, the late King, economical almoft to parfimony, detefted fuch vain exhibi- tions ; and was fupremely happy to fmoke and drink among his officers, in an obfcure guard-room, or a fumrner-houfe. Never was any contraft greater, nor diffimilarity more complete, than between the two laft Kings of Pruffia. When 112 MEMOIRS OF THE When his prefent Majefty is at " Sans Souci," he is unattended by any regular 1 guard. A corporal and four foldiers are fent there from Potzdam towards evening, and they withdraw at daybreak. Indeed, their prefence is not meant for the pro- tection of the King's perfon ; but, merely to iecure his peaches and apricots from de- vaflation, to which they might otherwilc be liable. He repofes in perfect fecurity, if not on the affections, on the obedience, fubjection, and admiration of his fubjects. His table, as well as his drefs, are fubjected. to certain rules, which mark his character, and which become interefting on that ac- count. No Prince is better ferved, though \vithout any fplendour or magnificence. He is, indeed, by no means infenfible to the phyfical pleafure of eating, confidered as diftinct from the conviviality of the table ; but, as he does not like to eat alone, a fmall number of perfons, ufually officers of rank, are every day invited to his din- ner. The Emperor Gallienus was not a more COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 1 13 more accurate proficient In the fcience of cookery, than is Frederic. He has, it is true, only eight difhes generally ferved ; but each is drefled by a feparate cook, and each is excellent in its kind. Four are French, two Italian, and the remaining two are accommodated to his Majefty's parti- cular tafte. It muft be admitted, that fo much attention to the gratification of ap- petite, favours more of the fchool of Epi- curus, than of Zeno. Philofopher as he is, the Father of the Portico is not his model. In. his deficit the King is expenfive and fplendid, fparing neither endeavours nor money in order to procure the moft deli- cate fruits in abundance. The productions of the tropical, as well as temperate climates, are heaped before him. He eats plentifully, and drinks gaily as well as freely, of his favourite wines, which are Burgundy and Champagne. I am allured that he commonly fwallows near a bottle of the former, and of the latter fome VOL. i. i glafles 114 MEMOIRS OF THE glafies every day. In " liqueurs" he rarely indulges,, and he touches no fupper. He fleeps without either a night-cap, or any covering about his head. When he rifes, his firft operation is to pull on his ftockings, before he quits the bed, and then his boots over them. His hair and beard are difpatched in a few minutes, by the firft valet or footman who prefents liimfelf. The Princefs Amelia his fifter, ufed formerly to make his fliirts ; but, as {he has of late years become incapable, from difeafe and infirmity, of continuing the practice, he is ; obliged to receive them from other hands. The appropriation of his time, his occu- pations, and amufements, is regulated with Scrupulous accuracy, and never varies ex- cept when he is abfent from " Sans Souci." " My uncle," laid Prince Frederic of Brunfwic to me, " riles in fummer at " four in the morning, and even in winter " at five, or foon afterwards. He breakfafts "quite alone, on chocolate j and till ten " o'clock COURT OF BERLIN, .CtC. 115 cc o'clock he is entirely occupied in tranf- " acting affairs of ftate, which he difpatches " in perfon, with rigorous exactitude. From " that hour till near noon, he goes firft to " the parade, then walks, or as is more " commonly his cuflom, rides, if his health " permit. He returns to the Palace of " Potzdam, or to " Sans Souci," before "twelve, and fits down to dinner pre- " cifely at noon. After the repaft, he " ufually remains fome time at table, they with flood, unmoved, every effort of the Pruffian tactics. After the (laughter of twenty-one thoufand men, they ftill dif- dained to retreat, and night alone terminated the combat. But the Ruffian commander, by immediately falling back towards Poland, while he feemed to yield the honor of the victory to Frederic, allowed him time to fly to the afliftanee of his brother. It was become indifpenfable to extricate Prince Henry, whom Daun had already furrounded in the vicinity of Drefden-. The King's approach effected it ;' but, not content with obliging the Auftrians to abandon their project, he rafhly attempted to cut off their communication with Bo- hemia. Regardlefs of the advice and remonftrances of Marfhal Keith, he per- fifted for that purpofe to occupy a pofition at the village of Hohkirchen, near Baut- zen, in Lufatia. Keith predicted to him N 3 that 1 82 MEMOIRS OF THE that he would be there attacked by Daun, and afTerted that the poft was untenable againft fuperior numbers. His apprehen- fions were flighted by the King, and the event foretold, took place. Favored by the night and a thick fog, Daun, on the 1 4th of October, furprized the Pruflian camp, drove their troops from, the heights of Hohkirchen, and gained a fignal vic- tory. But the King's greateft and moft irreparable lofs was that of Keith himfelf, who, after having rallied the foldiers, and performed for more than three hours all the functions of a confummate General, fell in the church-yard of the village, mortally wounded. Marlhal Keith was born in Scotland, of a very ancient and noble family, which, unhappily, from principles of generous, but miftaken attachmeut to the exiled houfe of Stuart, engaged in the rebellion of 1715, againft George the Firft. Obliged to quit his native country, he entered into the fervice of Ruflia, where he COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 183 rie rofe to the rank of Field-Marflial ; and afterwards paffed into that of Frederic the Second. By him, who knew how to appreciate, and to value merit, Keith was not lefs beloved than refpected. All his exertions to wreft the victory from Daim at Hohkirchen, were unfuccefsful. His body, after he fell, ftripped and naked, was carried into the church of the village, and laid upon a barrow, covered with a Croat's cloak. When all refiftance on the part of the Pruffians was completely at an end, and their army difperfed ; Marmal Daun, accompanied by Lacy and feveral other officers entered the church. Seeing a dead body expofed on a barrow, and con- ceiving it to be fome perfon of diftin&ion, he enquired who it was ? Lacy approached the corpfe, and after attentively regarding it, exclaimed with great emotion, " Alas ! 'tis my father's beft friend, 'tis Keith!" The late Marfhal Lacy and he had both been in the fervice of Ruflia, had made more than one campaign together, N 4 under 184 MEMOIRS OP THE under the reign of the Emprefs Arine, and had lived on terms of intimate friend- fhip. At fo melancholy a piece of 'intel- ligence, Daun burft into tears, as did Lacy, and every perfon prefent. How affecting a moment j and how fublime, as well as touching a fubjet, for the pencil of an artift ! While they were paying this tribute of refpedl and fympathy to the remains of Keith, a Croat made his appearance, dreffed in the Marmal's uniform, and hav- ing acrofs his breaft the yellow riband of the Pruffian order of the " Black Eagle." Daun defiring to know how he came by thofe fpoils, " I took them," anfwered the Croat, " from the man who lies yonder, whom I killed and ftripped. I have given him my cloak." The corpfe was fcarcely in the leaft disfigured, or bloody ; nor was it without fome difficulty, and after confiderable fearch, that the wound which he had received, was dif- coverable. A mufket-ball had penetrated his COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 185 his fide, or flank, but the orifice washardly perceptible, and only marked by a fmall purple fpot. As he fell on his back, he had bled inwardly. Daun having inftantly ordered out three regiments under arms, caufed him to be interred with all the military honours due to his high rank and his diftinguifhed merit. On the enfuing day the Marfhal received a letter from his Pruflian Majefty, brought by a trumpet. In it, Frederic, after con- gratulating him on his late victory, and complimenting him on the manoeuvres which had conduced to fo fignal a fuccefs, requefted him to render every military ho- nor to the remains of the great man, whom it had been his misfortune to lofe. The Auftrian commander in his reply befought the King to believe, that he had not waited for his royal commands on fuch a point ; but had already paid to the deceafed Mar- fhal every mark of refpect in his power, Frederic, in his letter to Daun, made no mention whatever of Prince Francis of Brunfwic, l85 MEMOIRS OF THE. Brunfwic, his own brother-in-law, who had likewife fallen in the fame action. Sir Robert Keith, (now envoy at Vienna, and fo well known by his fpirited conduct in Denmark during the revolution in 1772,) has lately erected in the church of Hoh- kirchen, an elegant marble monument to the memory of his relation, Marfhal Keith. Every particular relative to his death, here enumerated, was imparted to me by an Auftrian officer of diftinction who was prefent. If the King cannot be exempted from cenfure for perfifting, in contradiction to Keith's advice, to occupy the camp at Hohkirchen, he is not lefs to be admired for the celerity and fkill with which he repaired his defeat. Far from reconquering Silefia, or even expelling him from Sax- ony, Daun found him equally formidable as before the late misfortune. When he attempted to befiege Neifs, and afterwards to attack Drefden, Frederic obliged him to renounce both enterprizes, and finally to 14 fall COURT OF BERLIN, etc. 187 fall back upon Bohemia. The army of the Empire, which nearly at the fame time made a feeble effort to regain their honor loft at Rofuach, was eatily repulfed : while the Swedes, who only half a century before had triumphantly overrun Poland, RufTia, and Saxony, under Charles the Twelfth, were compelled to retire precipitately from Pomerania. If the campaign of 1758 had been more difaftrous to Frederic than the preceding one, it had likewife manifefted in a confpicuous manner his prodigious relburces. The next was deftined to put him to ftill feverer trials. Daun no longer engaged in 1759, the principal attention of the King. Content with watching his motions, with covering Silefia, and deluding Saxony, Frederic directed his moft active exertions againft another enemy. The Ruffians, led by Soltikoff, who had replaced their former commander; after defeating Genera] Wedel at Zullichau, near Croflen on the Oder, had continued their march toward Berlin. It MEMOIRS OF THE It was marked by ravages of every kind j and the King; irritated to a pitch of defpe- ration at the defeat of Wedel, refolved to give them once more battle. The Oder, which had been twice the fcene of thefe conflicts, witneffed a third engagement not lefs fanguinary, and ftill more memorable from its termination. All the preceding difafters which Frederic had experienced, were light in comparifon with the defeat that he fuftained at Cunerfdorf. Apprehenfive from the motions of the Pruffian army, that the King meditated an attack on Soltikoff, Marfhal Daun de- tached Laudohn to join him, at the head of twelve thoufand Auftrians and Saxons, principally cavalry. The junction was effected, not without difficulty, a very few days before the engagement. On the afternoon immediately preceding, it Soltikoff and Laudohn rode out together, in order to reconnoitre the enemy. As it was evident that the King meant to bring on a battle, Soltikoff took occafion to ex- plain COURT OF BERLIN, tC. 189 plain to his colleague, the difpofitions which he intended to make for receiving the Pruflians. He pointed out at the fame time the pofition in which he fhould wait for the attack, and the point againft which, he conceived, it would be princi- pally directed. Laudohn, though he coin^ cided with him in opinion, enquired neverthelefs, what meafures he had taker* for covering or fecuring his retreat, in cafe of a difafter ? " None whatever," replied Soltikoff; " the Ruffians are unacquainted with retreats : they always either conquer or die." On the following morning, the twelfth of Auguft, Frederic attacked the en- trenched camp at Cunerfdorf. His greateft efforts were directed againft their flank, at the only point where it was acceflible, by a narrow opening through a morafs. Two Ruffian regiments, (rationed in the pafs, long fuftained without giving way, the onfet of the Pruffian army : they were length put to the fword, and fell in their MEMOIRS OF THE their ranks. Soltikoff propofed therefore to Laudohn, that a regiment of Auftrians Ihould march into the vacant ipace, along de of a regiment of his own troops. But the Auftrian foldiers rejected the pro- pofal with indignation. "We are ready- to fight," cried they : " but not to be butchered like victims." Neither re- proaches nor entreaties could alter their determination ; and they were even fo exafperated againft Laudohn/ that they threatened to tear him in piece's. In order to avoid their fury, he was obliged to conceal himfelf for a fhort time among -the baggage, till their firft emotions of ifcfentment had fubfided. In this iluiation, unfupported by his Auftrian allies, Soltikoff inftantly ordered two regiments of his own troops to ad- vance, with drums beating and colours flying. Like their predeceflbrs they 'were cut to pieces ; and were fucceeded by two more, who underwent a fimilar fate. Scarcely a. man remained alive j but, their bodies COURT OF BERLIN, etC. bodies foon formed a ftupendous mound, completely filling the fpace through which alone the enemy could penetrate. Of the feventh and eighth regiments, which in turn occupied the fame fpot, fo few efcaped, that the gentleman who related thefe par- ticulars, aflured me, an officer of the name of Richter, though only an enfign in the morning, commanded the furvivors at the clofe of the day. Such troops, though they might be put to the fword, it feemed impoflible 'to van- quifh. The Pruffians, weaned with {laugh- ter, and finking under the heat of the weather, which was intolerable, began, after fome hours, to relax in their ardour. Inftead of refting fatisfied with the impor- tant advantage which he had cheaply gained, and waiting for a more favourable occafion to complete the deftruction of his enemies ; Frederic, in oppofitibn to all ad- vice, forced his foldiers to new exertions. Laudohn perceiving their exhaufted con- dition, 192 MEMOIRS OF THE dition, and inftantly availing himfelf . of ir, made a defperate charge at the head of the Auftrian cavalry, which decided the for- tune of the day. The Pruffians fled on every fide, threw down their arms, and abandoned the field. Tents, artillery, bag- gage, every thing fell into the hands of the conqueror. Scarcely could ten men be collec/ted together in a body. Frederic, obliged to confult his fafety by flight, paffed the night in a hut, only a few miles from the fcene of his defeat, deftitute of protection, and almoft without neceffaries. JLaudqhn, after exprefling to the Ruffian General his admiration of the valour and fteadinefs of his troops, offered,, if Soltikoff would entruft a few of them to his com- mand, to go in purfuit qf the beaten enemy. He even ventured to arifwer for bringing his Pruflian Majefty prifoner into the camp within three days. Far from accept- ing the offer, Soltikoff coldly declined it. *' I have already gained two battles," faitf COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 193 he, " in little more than a fortnight ; let " my brother Daun now do fomething in " the common caufe." Inftead of being overwhelmed by fuch a difafter, as might have been expected, Frederic foon revived more formidable from his defeat. The inaction of the Ruffians allowed him time to aflemble a new army ; and Soltikoff neither followed up his vic- tory, nor atchieved any thing of confe- quence during the reft of the campaign. But Drefden, which the Pruflians had hitherto held, was wrefted from them by Daun ; and as if fomething fmifter prefided in the councils of their Sovereign, he un- derwent foon afterwards a humiliation ftill more poignant than the calamity of Cunerf- dorf : I mean the furrenderof near twenty thoufand troops at Maxen ; an event which may almoft be compared with the difgrace of the Caudine Forks, fo memorable in the hiftory of Rome, Ever difpofed from his turn of mind and character, to act offen- fively, the King ventured to detach a body of forces, in order to cut off Daun's com- VOL. i. o munication MEMOIRS OF THE munication with Bohemia. They were commanded to take poft at Maxen ; a pofition capable of being defended againft fuperior numbers, and from its fituation admirably calculated to intercept the retreat of the Auftrians. Finck, a General of expe- rience and merit, was felecled for this comrniffion, in the execution of which, he did not, however, by any means anfwer the expectations of his mafter. I have heard the conduct of Finck dif- cuffed by many Auftrian officers who were prefent at his furrender ; and they in gene- ral agree, that he not only took a bad pofi- tion, but that he defended it ftill worfe. By leaving the heights above his camp unoccupied, he committed an irreparable fault, which enabled Daun, after furround- ing, ultimately to compel him to lay down his arms. Always flow, and frequently irrefolute, Daun hefitated neverthelefs, whether he mould make the attempt ; but the exhortations of Lacy prevailed over his indecifion. Finck, inverted on every fide by the Auftrians, found efcape impoffible ; and COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 195 and Lacy, after having made himfelf maf- ter of the heights which commanded the PrufTian camp, fummoned their commander to furrender. He was not in want of provifions ; and General Wunfch, as well as many other officers, indignant at the idea r vanity, regardlefs of pofterity ? It cer- tainly COURT OF BERLIN, etc. 259 tainly was not thus, that Pericles embel- lilhed Athens ; or that Agrippa and Adrian conftru&ed the edifices intended to tranf- mit their memories to diftant times. Yet in tafte and the protection of all the fine arts, no lefs than in military fame, the King has ever been emulous to- rival the greateft names of Greece or Rome. Scarcely above a quarter of a mile from Potzdam, on a pleafmg eminence, com- manding a view of the city, the river Havel, and the adjacent country, ftands the little palace of " Sans Souci." In celebrity, though not in magnitude or fplendor, it may vie with Verfailles, with the Efcurial, or the Vatican, the moft ex- penlive fabrics of modern vanity and gran- deur. The building is far from magnifi- cent, confiding only of a long range of apartments on the ground, conftrucled by Frederic, not long after his acceflion to the Crown. It was there, in the early part of the prefent reign, that Voltaire, Mauper- tuis, Bielfield, Algarotti, Manftein, D'Ar- s 2 gens, MEMOIRS OF THE gens, Keening, and fo many other extraor- dinary men, were accuftomed frequently to hold their meetings, and to difcufs the inoft interefting queftion,s of fcience or of philofophy, in company with the King. That period of time terminated with the memorable war which began in 1756, when occupations of a more urgent and impe- rious nature broke up their fociety. Dur- ing near feven years he neither beheld his capital, nor " SansSouci," which were both more than once in porTeffion of the Auf- trians or the Ruffians. They neverthelefs fpared, and protected it from outrage. Except Voltaire, Frederic is now the fole furvivor of that great knot ; and here he paries in a retirement, partly Epicurean, partly philofophic, the whole of the Summer and Autumn, when he is not abfent at the reviews in Silefia, or on the Viftula. At " Sans Souci," he affeds to diveft himfelf of the cares and fatigues attached to Royalty ; to unbend his mind from State affairs, and ta live for fociety, friendfhip, COURT OF BERLIN, etc. friendfhip, and knowledge. No vifitor of whatever rank intrudes, unafked, on the privacy of his retreat : but the Hereditary Prince of Brunfwic, as well as his brother Prince Frederic, each, have apartments in the palace ; and when there, they con- flantly dine at the royal table. The central chamber of " Sans Souci," which is the eating room, is fmall, but beau- tiful ; the figure oval ; and architecture, as well as fculpture, have united towards its decoration. Italy and Egypt furnimed the marble with which the floor is inlaid ; and the Corinthian pillars that fupport the roof, were dug out of the quarries of Carrara. Two ftatues of exquifite work- manfhip, ftand in niches on either fide the door ; and in all the furniture, no lefs than in the ornaments, are difplayed luxury and tafte. In order to render it habitable, a warmer and more genial climate is re- quifite. On the more of Baise or of Sor- rento, fuch a retreat would be fupremely delightful ; but here, during ten months of s 3 the 262 MJIMO1RS or THE the year, we fhiver while we admire. In fummer the King conftantly dines there; and adjoining it are three chambers, one within the other, peculiarly appropriated to his own ufe. The firft, which is a drawing-room of very moderate dimenhons, but elegant and adorned with a few paintings ; unlike the generality of German rooms, has a chim- ney. Frederic, who prefers comfort to grandeur, has difcovered that nothing can compenfate for the cheerful and vivifying influence of a fire. The body may indeed be completely warmed by the equal di- fufion of heat from a ftove ; but the mind, the temper, and the fancy, receive anima-r tion as well as heat, from the fight of a blazing hearth. The King is too well read in Horace and in Tibullus, not to feel how claffical a warmth is beftowed by the " li'gna fuper foco." It is one of the many proofs that might be adduced, how fu- perior he is, in little, as well as in greater things, to the generality of German Princes, COURT OF BERLIN', etc. 263 Princes, who never fee a fire, and are fatisfied with feeling its operation. Near the chimney was placed a fofa, very dirty, and much worn by the King's boots. Here he writes, reads, compotes, and dif- patches bufinefs. Next to it is the mufic-room ; an amufe- ment of which Frederic, at every period of his life, has been fond. The flute was, for a long time, his favorite inftrument; but he hasj not without reluctance, been obliged to renounce this elegant gratifica- tion, on account of the weaknefs of his lungs ; and he now performs on the harp- fichord. A very fine one flood in the apartment ; and on a large marble table, tumbled together in cOnfufion, lay Sonatas, petrefa&ions, and a variety of curiofities, mineral, metallic, and literary. Only one painting found place ; a portrait of the Em- peror Jofeph the Second, lately fent from Vienna. He doubtlefs retains it there, as William the Third would have preferved that of Louis the Fourteenth, or as Alexan- s 4 der 264 MEMOIRS OF THE der would have done that of Darius. To the Court of Vienna, Frederic looks with natural and unceafing folicitude. He is neither lulled into fecurity by treaties, nor deceived by proteftations Confcious that the Auftrian Cabinet will feize the firft occafion of regaining Silefia, and of hum- bling the family of Brandenburgh, he keeps his antagonift conftantly before his eyes. In the third and innermoft chamber* his Majefty fleeps: but, on firft entering it, the precife place is not eafily difcoverable ; a large recefs, gilded and defigned for a bed of ftate, remaining unoccupied. Be- hind a-fcreen, in one corner of the room, on a little camp bed, or rather couch, fcarcely three feet wide, he conftantly repofes. The whole furniture, as well as the fcreen itfelf, are of pale blue fatin, and at the foot is an alarum clock. Ac- cuftomed to a military life, and inured to hardfhips, he prefers this bed to one of a larger fize. In the gardens, almoft clofe to the palace, is the gallery of paintings that COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 265 that he has conftruded : the walls, as well as the floor of which, are entirely in- crufted with marble. Though the col- lection can neither compare in magnitude, with that of Drefden, or of Dufleldorf, it contains many valuable pieces, Italian and Flemifh. He ufually pafles an hour or more there almoft every day, when not pre- vented by more important occupations. Vanderwerff and Rubens are his favorite matters. I drove about a mile through the gar- dens of " Sans Souci," to the new palace; a magnificent ftructure ere&ed by the King fmce the conclufion of the peace of Hu- bertfburg in 1763, and only rimmed a few years ago. The front is grand, and the ftyle noble, but capricious and fingular ; differing in feme points from the com- monly eftablimed rules of architecture. After contemplating its vafl extent, its fuperb furniture, its numerous apartments, capable of lodging the whole Royal Family, together with their attendants ; we only lament 266 MEMOIRS OF THE lament that it ftands in a fandy plain, deftitute of cheerfulnefs or beauty. It is indeed, difficult to affign a reafon why a Prince fo economical, and fo much an enemy to ufelefs pomp, fhould conftrud a fecond Verfailles among the fands of Bran- denburgh. Was it not done, in order to convince all Europe, that the long, ruinous and expenfive war which he fuftained, has neither impoverifhed him, nor exhaufted his finances ? Except during the Great Duke of Ruffia's viiit to him laft year, he has fcarcely ever lodged in it a fmgle night; and perhaps he will never inhabit it more. Content with having reared fo fuperb an edifice, he leaves it to be occupied by his fucceflbrs. Notwithstanding thefe palaces and gar- dens, adorned by art, whole effect is en- creafed by the external beauty and regu- larity of Potzdam, the mind wants fome- thing on which to repofe. After the firft emotions of curiofity and admiration have fubfided, we look round for comfort, plenty, anu* COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 267 and felicity. But, banimed by the hand of military feverity, they are not any where to be found. No feftive peafants are feen along the fides of the melancholy Havel, employed in the occupations or recreations of a country life. It feems to me that Homer might have written his " Iliad," or Voltaire his " Henriade," at Potzdam : but, Virgil could never have compofed his " Georgics," nor Theocritus, his " Idylliums," under the made of Frederic's laurels. No rural or paftoral images prefentthemfelves totheima- gination. Guards and Huflars conftitute half the inhabitants ; and even they feem rather detained by force, than refident from inclination, loyalty, or adherence. While I remained there, I thought per- petually of what Cicero faid to Marcellus ; " Wherever you are, recollect that you are " equally within the power of the con- " queror." The Pruflian Monarchy itfelf fometimes reminds me of a vaft prifon, in the gloomy centre of which appears the great keeper, occupied in the care of I his 268 MEMOIRS OF THE his captives. The air, which I am now breathing, feems lighter than in Branden- burgh, the human face more cheerful, the animal man more happy, and the afpect of nature itfelf more grateful. I quitted the dominions of Frederic, penetrated with admiration of his talents, his victories, and his achievements : but, with fenti- ments fuch as we experience on leaving a magnificent caftle, ftirrounded with moats and battlements, where emblems of re- ftraint continually force themfelves on the eye, or the imagination. After my departure from Potzdam, I reached the Saxon frontiers in a few hours ; for the diftance is very inconsiderable. Not only the foil becomes fertile, but the cultivation is better ; and an air of plenty, mixed with content, is vifible in every counte- nance, on entering the territories of Sax- ony. It is impoffible to exprefs how plcafing is the effect of this change, on the mind. COURT OF BERLIN, etc. LETTER VIII. Pofitlon of Drefdcn, local and political Conduct of the King of Prufjia^ towards the Saxons, in ibe loft war. The Court.' Change^ fmce the Death of Auguftus the Third. Saxon Women. Prince Charles of Saxony. Story of the Apparition of the Che- valier de Saxe, raifed by Schrepfer. Re- facliom on it. Death of Schrepfer. DRESDEN, November 23, 1777. T T is difficult to imagine a greater tran- fition, than from the Pruffian, to the Saxon dominions ; or a contraft more linking, than is prefented by Berlin and Drefden. I am charmed with this city ; with its environs, with its fociety, and with its general afpect. The fandy plains of Brandenburgh are here exchanged for a rich, finely undulated, and populous country, covered with marks of opu^ lence, induftry, and freedom. Inftead of the 2J'6 MEMOIRS OF THE the melancholy and deferted magnificence of Berlin, we find a fmallef capital, Icfs regular in its conftrudtion ; but cheerful, elegant, and in a fituation the moft pic- turefque. It retains indeed, in many parts, the frightful veftiges of bombard- ments, conflagrations, and ravages, prin- cipally inflicted by Frederic, during the courfe of the late war. Never, perhaps, was any fituation, politically confidered, more unfortunate. All the local or phyfical advantages which the Saxon ca- pital enjoys, are dearly purchaied by its expofed pofition. Placed between twcx great rival powers, who are perpetually contending for fuperiority, the Elector is under a neceflity on every rupture, of joining one or the other. If, as in the late war, he allies with Auftria; his dominions, nay his capital and his palaces, are occu- pied, burnt, and demolifhed by the Pruf- fians. Auguftus the Third, King of Poland, grandfather to the prefent Elector, experienced this truth in its full extent. Driven COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 27! Driven from Drefden, he pafled moft of the concluding years of his reign, in a fort of inglorious exile from his paternal domini- ons, at Warfaw, among his ele&ive fubjedgj the Poles. Does he take part againft the Court of Vienna ? He is, if poffible, ex- pofed to greater calamities. The Bohe- mian frontiers are fcarcely four leagues diftant ; and a body of Croats, or Pan- dours, fecretly detached by the enemy, may carry off the Eledor himfelf, if he venture to take the diverfion of hunting at Moritzburg, or at Pilnitz, two of his palaces in the -vicinity of Drefden. Yet, under all theie difadvantages, in the fhort time which has elapfed fmce the concluflon of the late peace ; fuch are the inherent fuperiorities of the foil of Saxony, fuch the induftry of its inhabitants, and fuch the wifdom, economy, and benignity of the prefent Government, that, except in Drefden itielf, I fee few marks of mif- fortune. Frederic's Generals, from necef- fity more than inclination, were reduced to 272 MEMOIRS OF THE to burn the fuburbs in 1758; but he di- recled his bombs againft the fineft public edifices, during the fiege in 1760. Ani- mated by perfonal refentment towards Count Bruhl, firft minifter and favorite of Auguftus the Third, to whofe influence and counfels he attributed the hoflile part taken by his mafter ; the King delcended to manifeft his indignation againft that nobleman, in a manner unworthy of ib great a Prince. He not only deflroyed Count Bruhl's palaces ; but even caufed, it is faid, the pavilions and ilatues in his gardens, to be mutilated or defaced : a ftate in which many of them ftill remain at this hour. Such a revenge, if true, refembles more the impotent fury of Cam- byfes, or of Caracalla, than the dignified refentment which mould characterize a Sovereign, by whom the arts have been always cheriihed. His enemies by no means retaliated with equal feverity on Berlin, or on Potzdam, of both which, for a fhort time, they were repeatedly mafters ; COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 273 mafters ; and which, though they plun- dered and ranfomed, they neither defaced, nor demolifhed. During the winter of I 75&i when Frederic occupied Drefden, he was accuftomed to pafs much of his lei- fure in the celebrated gallery of paintings conftructed by Auguftus the Third. It is by far the fineft collection of that nature, in the north of Europe, and does honor to the tafte as well as magnificence, of the late King of Poland. I confefs however, that I am lefs {truck with the " Notte" of Corregio, oppofite to which Frederic ufed to caufe his chair to be placed, than with many other pieces in the gallery. Of the Saxon Court, though I have been prefented to the Elector, I am incompe- tent to fpeak with information, from fo fhort a refidence. A glance fuffices, ne- verthelefs, to (hew that it fcarcely retains any traces of the fplendor, which cha- racterized it under the reigns of Auguftus the Second and Third. Thofe Princes, in addition to their hereditary pofTeffions, were by election Kings of Poland ; and VOL. i. X Drefden, 274 MEMOIRS OF THE Drefden, from the beginning of the prefent century, down to the year 1756, might vie with Paris itfelf in the arts of luxury. But, the accumulated calamities of war, under which Saxony groaned during more than fix years, nearly extinguifhed induftry, and impov crimed every clafs of the people. The reigning Elector, economical, laborious, and neither attached to pleafure, nor to exhibitions of pomp, wiiely reprefles every tendency to expence. Occupied meritori- oufly in recovering his dominions from the ravages of Frederic, no lefs than from the effect of the profufion of his predeceflbrs ; he gives no part of liis revenues to mif- treiles, to dancers, to ardfts, or to public performers in any line. When I recollect the defcriptions left us of Drefden under Auguftus the Second, by Lady Wortley Montagu, by Pollnitz, and by many other writers ; I am tempted to think that I read of fome other place. Encampments, Ihews, and diverfions, per- petually fucceeding, to- which flrangers eagerly crowded from all the kingdoms of Europe, COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 275 Europe, rendered it at once the moil amuf- ing and fplendid Court in Germany. That Prince, whofe bodily ftrength equalled all that fable attributes to Ajax or to Thefeus, was formed to excel in manly exercifes of every kind. Pleafure, varied in a thoufand forms, feemed to conftitute the only occu- pation of his reign. Banquets, or rather Bacchanalian Orgies, fuch as the Regent Duke of Orleans, nearly at the fame time, was accuftomed to celebrate in the " Palais Royal," were continually held by Auguftus. The moft beautiful women of Poland and of Germany, allured by his libe- rality and munificence, ftrove for the tranfl- tory pofleflion of his affedions. It is in vain that you would now feek for beauty in the Saxon drawing-room. Except the Countefs Lofs, I have not feen a fingle woman of condition here, who has any pretenfions to be called handfome. Even Madame de Lofs, if critically examined, may rather be denominated elegant and pleafmg, than fuperior in perfonal charms. If however, the upper ranks can furnifti fo T 2 few 276 MEMOIRS OF THE few models for the painter, it by no means follows, that the fex has degenerated within the laft fifty years, in Saxony. Among the middle orders, and among the peafants, the mod charming figures are found ; far fuperior, in my opinion, to thofe ordi- narily feen in other parts of the German Empire. I have often been inclined to imagine, though it is perhaps ideal, that there is in the air, climate, and iky of Drefden and its environs, fomething more favourable to beauty, than in Hanover, Brandenburgh, or Bavaria. Among the Princes of the Electoral family to whom I have been prefented, Prince Charles, uncle to the reigning Elec- tor, claims particular notice. He is here commonly denominated Duke of Courland, the States of that Dutchy having chofen him for their Sovereign, by the influence and protection of Elizabeth, late Emprefs of Ruflia ; as his uncle, the famous Mar- flial Saxe, had been, at an earlier period of the prefent century. With that Princefs's reign expired his tranfitory elevation ; and the COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 277 the exiled Duke Biren, recalled by Peter the Third from Siberia, refumed his fuf- pended rights. Prince Charles of Saxony is not only elegant in his perfon and man- ners; but, highly amiable and accomplimed. He and the Princefs his wife, who was a Polim lady of the family of Crafinfky, in- habit the palace here in Drefden, which belonged to the late Chevalier de Saxe his uncle, one of the many natural fons of Auguftus the Second. In the great gallery, where I was pre- fented to Prince Charles three days fmce, was performed the memorable fcene of raifing the apparition of the Chevalier de Saxe. Never, perhaps, was a more impudent, or a more fuccefsful experiment tried upon human weaknefs and credulity. As it happened only about four years ago, and as many perfons of the firft rank and consideration in this country were prefent, the principal circumftances attending it, are well known and remembered. But, the ridicule which has attached to it, an4 the marked difapprobation exprefled by the T 3 Elector 278 MEMOIRS OF THE Elector towards any repetition of fuch ex- periments, render all thofe who witneffed it extremely my of relating the tranfaction. It was not without difficulty, after repeated felicitation, that I obtained from one of the gentlemen who affifted at it, the recital which I am a.bout to make. He is a man of fenfe, courage, and intelligence. I fupprefs his name ; but, you may form from it fome eftimate of the human mind in this part of Europe ; which in many refpects, is certainly more open to fuper- ftitious impreffions, than with us. The Germans, ahnoft univerfally, even thofe of the founded and moft cultivated under- ftandings, believe in the exiftence of fami- liar fpirits ; in whofe train follow witches, ghofts, and the whole family of invifible agents. If however, we incline to confi- der fuch weaknefs with pity or contempt, we fhould recoiled:, that fimilar proofs of human infirmity have been given by turns, in every European capital. The miracles, performed in the church-yard of St. Me- dard, at Paris, under Louis the Fifteenth's reign, COURT OF BERLIN, etc. 279 reign, which were only terminated by the royal interpofition, are not yet forgotten. Scarcely fifteen years, I believe, are elapfed, iince London had its " Chevalier de Saxe," in the memorable Cock-Lane ghoft. The man who here exhibited fo ex- traordinary a proof of his art ; for fuch it muft, in every cafe, be efteemed ; was a perfon of the name of Schrepfer, who originally refided at Leipfic, of which city he was a native, and where he kept a coffee-houfe. But, his bufi- nefs not producing him either as much profit, or as much distinction as he afpired to poflefs, he pietended to ftudy magic, and . to have acquired many fecrets con- nected with that imaginary fcience. He boldly aflerted that he had intercourfe with, and a control over fpirits, whom he could fummon, command, and caufe to difap- pear, if not altogether at his pleafure, yet by the force of his invocations. Thefe agents he had the ingenuity and effrontery to divide into three claflcs, the friendly, the evil, and the neutral ; all of whom he T 4 knew MEMOIRS OF THE knew how to diftinguifli at their approach, or on their appearance, by the noifes which preceded and attended them. Whenever he affected to exert his magical powers, he always began by calling to his affiftance the benevolent fpirits ; in order, as he faid, to defend him againft the attacks of the malig- nant ones. Pretenfions fo extraordinary, fuftained by fome exhibitions which im- prefTed the fpectators with aftoniftiment, foon procured him no little reputation, Schrepfer, about this time, while he flill refided at Leipfic, had given offence to Princ.e Charles of Saxony, by expreffions relative to him, of an unbecoming or info- lent nature. The Prince irritated at fuch conduct, ordered an officer belonging to his houfehold to repair to Leipfic, and there to inflict on Schrepfer, in his name, perfonal c haft i feme nt. His orders were exactly executed : but Schrepfer, though he made no other reiiftance, running into a corner of the room, threw himfelf on his knees, and loudly invoked his invifible allies to e,ome to his affiftance. Their vifible ap- pearance COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 28 1 pearance or interpofition were however unnecefTary, in order to refcue him from violence : the officer, it is aflerted, having been fo much alarmed at the invocation and its poffible confequences, as to quit the chamber with precipitation. A circumftance of fuch notoriety, as well as fo degrading in itfelf to Schrepfer, in- duced him to leave Leipfic. After an ab- fence of fome time, he appeared at Drefden, where he aflumed a fictitious name, and an- nounced that he was a colonel in the fervice of France. In that quality he even made an attempt to be prefented to the Elector ; but Monfieur de Marbois, who acted as Charge d'Affaires in the abfence of the French en- voy, refufed to carry him to Court. His real name foon became known ; and his pretences to ikill in magic attracting many followers, his reputation fpeedily reached Prince Charles. It was accompanied with fuch extraordinary accounts of Schrepfer's powers, as to induce that Prince to make every exertion for obliterating the recol- letion of the indignity lately offered him. As MEMOIRS OF THE As a ftep towards it, he did not hefitate to go in perfon to the " Hotel de Pologne," an inn where Schrepfer lodged ; and in prefence of various \vitnefles, to afk his pardon for the blows given him, as well as to offer every amends that the nature of the affront admitted. Schrcpfer, flattered k by fuch a condefcenfion, having accepted the apologies, the Prince then requefted to fee fo'me proofs of his fupernatural art. It is pretended that he exhibited many; all of which only tended to augment the Prince's admiration, and to ftimulate his curiofity for further fpecimens. But, the moft difficult operation of magic in all ages, has been to raife departed fpirits from the tomb; a prodigy which Schrepfer fnade no fecret of his ability to perform. Prince Charles having earneftly, as well as repeatedly befought it ; after many refufals, real or affected, obtained at length a reluc- tant ' promife to prefent before his eyes an apparition ; for Schrepfer artfully profeifed the greatcft repugnance and difmclination to the aft, as. being perilous to himfelf, and attended COURT OF BERLIN, etc. 283 attended with various circumftances of hor- ror. It only remained therefore, to fix on the fpirit to be fummoned. After long confideradon the Chevalier de Saxe was named, and Schrepfer undertook to produce his ghoft before a felect company. The place chofen for the experiment, was Prince Charles's Palace in Drefden. But, as it was well known that the Elector having the misfortune to be neither credulous, nor inclined to permit fuch exhibitions in his capital, might difapprove and prohibit it, the ftridteft fecrecy was obferved previous to the affair. The Chevalier de Saxe, tKird in order of birth, among the natural fons of Auguftus the Second, King of Poland, was only half brother to the famous Marfhal Saxe, as they were by different mothers. In right of his, who was a Princefs Lubomirfka, of a very illuftrious Polim family, the Che- valier inherited considerable property in that country, as well as in Saxony. He refided principally in Drefden, and died only a few 284 MEMOIRS OF THE a few years ago, at his palace in this city ; which his nephew Prince Charles, who was his principal heir, occupied^ after his deceafe. In addition to his maternal eftates, the Chevalier pofleffed a vaft income from his military and other appointments in the Electoral fervice ; and as he left no iflue, he was fuppofed to have amaffed great fums. Reports had been circulated, that money was concealed in the palace ; but no one pretended to afcertain the precife place where it was depofited. If his fpirit could be compelled to appear, that interefting fecret might be extorted from him. Thus curiofity combining with avarice, or at leart with the hope of difcovering a confiderable treafure, prompted Prince Charles to name his uncle, as the object of the experiment. On the appointed night ; for Schrepfer naturally preferred darknefs, as not only more private in itfelf, but better calculated for the effect of incantations; the com- pany afTeinbled. They were nineteen in number, of whom I peribnally Joiow feveral, COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 285 feveral, who are perfons of confideration, character, and refpectability. When they were met in the great gallery of the palace, the iirft object of all prefent was to fecure the windows and doors, in order equally to prevent intrufion or deception. As far as precaution could effect it, they did fo, and were fatisfied that nothing except violence could procure accefs or entrance. Schrepfer then acquainted them, that the act which he was about to perform, would demand all their firmnefs j and advifed them to fortify their nerves by partaking of a bowl of punch, which was placed upon the table. Several of them, (indeed, as I believe, all except one or two,) thinking the exhorta- tion judicious, very readily followed it; but, the gentleman from whom I received thefe particulars, declined to profit by the advice. " I am come here," faid he to Schrepfer, " to be prefent at raifmg an apparition. " Either I will fee all, or nothing. My " refolution is taken, and no inducement can " make me put any thing within my lips." Another 286 MEMOIRS OF THE Another of the company, who preferred his prefence of mind, placed himielf clofe to the principal door, in order to watch if any one attempted to open or force it. Thefe preparatory fteps being taken, the great work began with the utmoft fo- lemnity. Schrepfer commenced it, by retiring into a corner of the gallery, where kneeling down, with many myfterious ceremonies he invoked the fpirits to appear, or rather to come to his aid ; for it is allowed that none were ever vifible. A very conflder- able time elapfed before they obeyed ; dur- ing which interval, he laboured apparently under great agitatiqn of body and mind, be- ing covered with a violent fweat, and almoft in convulfions, like the Pythonefs of an- tiquity. At length, a loud clatter . was heard at all the windows on the outfide ; which was foon followed by another noile, refembling more the effect produced by a number of we* fingers drawn over the edge of g-laffcs, than any thing elfe to which it 13 could COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 287 could well be compared. This found an- nounced, as he faid, the arrival of his good or protecting fpirits, am feemed to encou- rage him to proceed. A (hort time after- wards a yelling was heard, of a frightful and unufual nature, which came, he declared, from the malignant fpirits, whofe prefence, as it feems, was neceflary and indifpenfable to the completion of the cataftrophe. The company w^ere now, at lead the greater part, electrified with amazement, or petrified with horror ; and of courfe fully prepared for every object which could be prefented to them. Schrepfer continuing his invocations, the door fuddenly opened with violence, and fomething that refem- bled a black ball or globe, rolled into the room. It was inverted with fmoke or cloud, in the midft of which appeared to be a human face, like the countenance of the Chevalier de Saxe ; much in the fame way, it would feem, that Corregio or Hannibal Carrache have reprefented Jupiter appear- ing to Semele, From this form ifiued a loud 288 MEMOIRS OF TH loud and angry voice, which exclaimed m German, " Carl, was wolte du mit mich ?" " Charles, what wouldft thou with rne ? " Why doft thou diflurb me ?" Language, as may be fuppofed, can ill de- fcribe the confternation produced among the fpectators at fuch a fight. Either firmly perfuaded that the appearance which they beheld, was fpiritual and intangible ; or deprived of refolution to approach and attempt to feize it ; they appear to have made no effort to fatisfy themielves of its incorporeal nature. The Prince, whofe impious curiofity had fummoned his uncle's ghoft, and to whom, as the perfon princi- pally refponfible,the fpectre addrefled itfelf ; far from manifefting coolnefs, or attempting reply, betrayed the ftrongeft marks of horror and contrition. Throwing himfelf on his knees, he called on God for mercy ; while others of the terrified party earneftly be- fought the magician to give the only re- maining proof of his art for which they now were anxious, by difmifling the appa- rition. COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 289 I'ltion. But Schrepfer, though apparently willing, found, or pretended to find, this effort beyond his power. However incredible, abfurd, or ridiculous it may be thought, the perfons xvho witnefled the fcene, proteft that near an hour elapfed, before, by the force of his invocationSj the fpedlre could be com- pelled to difappear. Nay, when at length Schrepfer had fucceeded in difmifling it ; at the moment that the company began to re- fume a degree of ferenity, the door, which had been clofed, burft open again, and the fame hideous form prefented itfelf anew to their eyes. The mod refolute and col- lected among them/ were not proof to its fecond appearance,, and a fcene of uni- verfal difmay enfued. Schrepfer, however, by reiterated exorcifms or exertions, finally difmifled the apparition. The terrified fpe&ators foon difperfed, overcome with amazement, and fully fatisfied, as they well might be, of Schrepfer's fupernatural powers. Having thus related as ferioufly and cir- cumftantially as I am able, the principal VOL. i. u fads 290 MEMOIRS OF THE facts relative to the affair in queRion, it is natural to afk m-y own opinion of the ftory ; and to demand whether I can explain or account for it in any rational manner. To fucli inquiries I mud frankly reply, that I can neither give any fatisfadory folution of it, nor have I heard any attempted, except the obvious one of human credulity and terror, operated upon by impofture and . deception. But, the manner in which fo wonderful an illufion was produced, I am, in common with every perfon here, at a lofs to underfcand. I believe, no one has yet clearly explained how the liquefaction of St. Januarius's blood is performed; though, out of Naples, I imagine few per- fons attribute it to miraculous or fuperna- tural interpofition. We know from ex- perience, how prodigious are the deceptions practifed in and upon optics. Nineteen men, met together for the avowed purpofe of feeing an apparition, and believing that it is in human power to render a departed fpirit vifible, are already half fubdued to any thing, however grofs. Night, darknefs, and COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. arid the impofmg folemniry of ma%ic invo- cations, bereave the ftrongeft minds of their felf-pofleffion. A bold and artful importer might then trample on their reafon, and prefent to their eyes fome hideous figure properly accoutred for the occafion. It muft, however, always excite fome aftonifhinent and more regret, that among near twenty perfons, not one fheuld have endeavoured to lay hands on the fpectre. Its fecond appearance is likewife a circumftance very difficult to account for, as it was unneceflary in order to produce conviction, which had been fully effected. That it was a deception, no man of found underftanding will doubt ; but how it was managed or produced, the perfons who were duped, have not yet difcovered. They are all, or nearly all, ftill alive in this country, and they by no means boaft of their ad- venture, or derive from it any fort of vanity. On the contrary, independent of the ridi- cule, they all feel and exprefs the utmoft repugnance to relating, or even recollecting u 2 a fcene. MEMOIRS OF THE a fcene, which hfls imprefled on their ima- gination fo much horror. Their friends dread and deprecate a renewal of the images Iften prefented to thofe who were prefent; and a lady earneftly befought of me, rfqt to prefs her hufband on a fubject, of which he could never think or converfe without paffing a fleeplefs night. We muft be content therefore to refolve it into German credulity or fuperftidon, and congratulate ourfelves on our fuperiority to fuch puerile terrors. The ftory no fooner fpread through Drefden, than the Elector exprefled his dif- appvobation of fuch fcenes, and his per- emptory injunctions not to repeat them. Schrepfer foon retired to his native city, Leipfic; \fhere his fame accompanied him, and drew after him a crowd of difciples or votaries. To them he continued to give, as is confidently afferted here, nu- merous and aftoniihing proofs of Jiis fuper- natural power, fome of which I have heard Delated ; but after the fpeciraen that I have detailed, COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. detailed, all others would be at once tedious and fuperfluous. Schrepfer did not long enjoy his celebrity, and his death is not the lead extraordinary part of his hiftory. Three gentlemen, whom he had in fome meafure initiated into his myfteries ; for he profefled to inftrut in the fcience of magic ; were promifed by him an exhibition more wonderful than any at which they had yet affifted. For this purpofe they attended him into the wood of Rofendaal, which is at a fmall diftance without the gates of Leipfic. It was in fummer, before the fun rofe, between three and four o'clock in the morning. When they came to a certain part of the grove, he defired them to ftay a little, while he went on one fide, to make the requifite invocations. After waiting a few minutes, they heard the report of a piftol. Running to the fpot, they found that he had fliot himfelf, and was already without fenfe. He foon afterwards expired. All thofe who believe him to have had intercourfe with evil fpirits, affirm that he was tor- THE his furprizing adventures and defperate atchievements have fecured him the moft flattering reception. People of every rank, crowd round him to hear the ftory of his efcape, which he recounts with a coldnefc, and even phlegm, that encreafes its effect. The lineaments of his countenance cor- refpond wonderfully with his atchieve- ments ; and his whole figure, which is re- butt and vigorous, conveys the idea of de- termined intrepidity. During his campaigns in Poland, he received numerous wounds; particularly one in the haunch, which has much difabled him from exertions of acti- vity. When he repofes his body on the wounded fide, which is greatly contracted in confequence of the mufcles having been interfered, he appears of a middle fize. But, when he rifes on the other leg, he fuddenly becomes near fix feet in height. It is fuppofed that his ftay here will not be long, and that he means foon to return to France, in the military fervice of which Crown he is engaged. Should he ever by any COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 329 any accident fall into the hands of the Ruffians, Catharine would probably offer him up as a vidim, to the number of her fubje&s whom Beniowfky put to death. But, of fuch. an event there feems little or no probability. In my next, I may perhaps be able to conjecture with more aflurance, as to the certainty of peace. At this moment, every thing befpeaks a continuance of tranquil- lity. 33O MEMOIRS OF Hoftile Reman/trances of PruJJia^ reflecting the Ba* varian SucceJJion. Anecdotes of MarfhalLacy* Anecdotes of General Laudohn. VIENNA, February i6th, 1778- .' ~ QINCE I wrote laft, the political fky is again become dark, and feems to portend a tempeft, though perhaps it may not be immediate. The flattering indica- tions of peace, if not vanifhed, are at leaft obfcured ; and Bavaria, it appears, may yet involve the Empire in war. Refiftance is not however, expected from the Cabinet .of Munich, nor from that of Manheim. On the contrary, we know that the Eledor Palatine, Duke of Bavaria, has already figned a treaty with this Court, by which he com- pletely cedes the contefted diftricts to Maria Therefa. But, from another quarter, very ftrong oppofition has arifen. The Duke of Deux-ponts, far from acquiefcing in the COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 331 the renunciations of the Elector, his uncle, has had a confidential interview at Potzdam with Frederic, for the purpofe of effectually oppofmg any difmemberment. of his future inheritance. All the allodial, or perfonal property of the deceafed Elector of Bavaria, is claimed by his fifter, the Electrefs Dowa- ger of Saxony. Their joint reclamations might, never- thelefs, be unavailing, if Pruflia could be induced to remain paffive. But, however averfe he may be to war, the King has manifefted his refolution not to permit fo vaft an incorporation of territory to be effected, without remonftrance. He ha$ already united himfelf with Saxony, taken the troops of the Elector into his pay, and fent reiterated memorials to Prince Kaunitz, ftating the injuftice of the pre- tenfions of the Imperial Court. No fymp- toms however of a difpofition to yield, or even to concede, are vifible here. The language held by Auftria, is high, firm, and aim oft indignant. If we may believe re- 14 port, 332 MEMOIRS OF THE port, or form a judgment from appear- ances, the Emperor defires a rupture ra- ther than an accommodation. Never was the Houfe of Auftria in better prepara- tion for war. Artillery, troops, finances, all are ready on the fhorteft notice. They reckon likewife on Frederic's age, on his inabilities of body, and reluctance to com- mit his fame, as well as his acquifitions, to hazard. Perhaps, they reafon well. At all events, it is curious to contraft the con- duel of the fame Prince in 1741, with his prefent line of action in 1778. He began his reign by attacking Maria Therefa, with- out provocation ; by burfting in upon Si- lefia, and overturning the tranquillity of Germany, in order to aggrandize his do- minions. In the evening of life, defirous of peace, he flowly roufes himfelf from repofe ; remonftrates, inftead of marching into Bohemia ; and prefents himfelf as a barrier againft the Imperial ambition, which menaces the independance, as well as the integrity, of the Germanic Syftem. Already COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 333 Already various regiments, particularly f&- veral of cavalry, are under orders to march towards Bohemia and Moravia. Thofe of Lacy, and of Jofeph Colloredo, are arrived here, in their way to Prague or to Olmutz. No one doubts, that if a war fhould eventu- ally take place, the Emperor means to ferve in perfon ; but, the principal conduct of the campaign would be probably committed to the " duo Fulmina Belli," Marfhal Lacy, and General Laudohn. If we except the King of Pruffia, and Prince Henry his bro- ther ; they may be juftly accounted thegreat- eft commanders of the prefent century, in their different lines. The Emprefs Queen is fortunate in being able to entruft her caufe to fuch leaders. With Marfhal Lacy I have- the honor to be acquainted, and to meet him fometimes in private fociety. He is now approaching towards his fixtieth year ; but, it is impoffible not to perceive, that when young, he muft have been very handfome. In his perfon he is tall and thin ; his complexion fallow, and his features 334 MEMOIRS OF THE features fmall. He has the figure, deport- ment, and manners ojf a man of quality ; but, there is in them ftili more of the courtier and the gentleman, than of the foldier. Grave, and fomewhat diftant on firft acquaintance, he becomes afterwards pleafmg and communicative. He fpeaks French with equal eafe and elegance ; en- tertains magnificently, and his table is ferved with no lefs delicacy than profufion. Though now advancing fall to old age, he preferves a youthful appearance ; and though he has been fix times wounded by mufket-balls, he enjoys perfect health ; all the bullets having been extracted, with- out injury to his conftitution. In his youth, he facrificed to pleafure and diflipation ; but at prefent he lives retired, mixes little with the gay world, and pafles the evening of an active life, in the enjoyment of a dignified repofe. Pofleffed of an immenfe fortune, partly tranfmitted to him by de- fcent, and partly acquired in the courfe of long and honorable fervice j he ufes it as COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 335 as one, who, while he knows the value of riches,, is nevertheleis fuperior ;to them. Of an elevated mind, above the little arts of intrigue, or of Court cabal ; he is not lefs refpected than beloved, by the Sovereigns whom he ferves, Lacy is by no means, like Laudohn, a foldier of fortune, though he has rifen by his talents. His extraction and family are Irifh, but he was born in Ruffia. Son of the famous Marfhal Lacy, who, in con- junction with Munich, commanded the Mufcovite armies againft the Turks, and obtained fo many victories over them in the laft years of the Emprefs Anne ; it was in that great fchool he firft learnt the art of war. I have heard him fay, that his father fent him to fludy at Lignitz in Silefia, and afterwards at Vienna. In " 1 740, about the time of Maria Therefa's acceffion, he en- tered the Auftrian fervice, as an Enfign in the regiment of Count Brown, afterwards Marfhal Brown, who was killed at the battle pf Prague. Having diftinguifhed himfelf by MEMOIRS OF THE by a thoufand ads of perfonal courage, activity, and ability, he rofe fo rapidly to the rank of Major, that at the commence- ment of the war of 1756, he was already a Colonel, and foon became Major-General. But, to Daun's protection and friendfhip, he was principally indebted for his elevation: a patronage which Lacy repaid by the moil eflential fervices. Daun always had recourfe to him when under embarraffmqnts, and Lacy conftantly urged the Marlhal to mea- fures of decifion. I have already fpoken elfe- where, of Finck's furrender at Maxen, and of the retreat from Torgau ; on both which occafkms, Lacy acquired immortal honor* He has been accufed of not advancing to Laudohn's afliftance, when that Ge- neral was beaten by Frederic at Lignitz ; but, the charge is univerfally admitted to be unjuft. A degree of coldnefs, approaching to ri- vality, is however fuppofed to fubfift between them, fuch as exifted in the laft century be- tween Conde and Turenne. Their charac- ters, COURT OF BERLIN, etc. 337 ters, manners, and talents, are indeed, very difTimilar. Lacy is not merely one of the firft commanders of his time, admitted to be fuperior even to Laudohn in the theory of war, in the fcience of tadics, and in the judicious choice of ground for encamp- ments j he is equally formed for the Ca- binet and the drawing-room, as for the field. Enjoying the inoft diftinguimed place in the Emperor's confidence and af- fedion, that Prince vifits him at all hoiirsj converfes with him on matters of bufmefs while the Marfhal is dreffing, and confults him on every point. Nor is it only on mili- tary or political fubjects, that Jofeph applies to him for advice and affiftance. Lacy is the depofitory of his moft fecret thoughts 5 participates his domeftic troubles ; and foothes him in thofe moments of dejection, difappointment, and chagrin, to which a divided fovereignty is peculiarly liable. In the difficult fcience of provifioning an army, Lacy has no equal ; and he is allowed to be the beft Adjutant- General in Eu- VOL. i. z rope, 33$ MEMOIRS OF THE rope. To him, the whole arrangement, diilribution, and management of the Auf- trian forces is committed in time of peace. The fpirit of order, fuftained by judicious economy, which characterize him, enable Lacy to regulate with eafe fo complicated, as well as fo immenfe a machine. When we reflect; on thefe circumftances, we fhall not be furprized that he has attained, and we muft admit that he deferves, the high fitu- atkm and fortune of which he is in pof- feffion. With Laudohn I have not the happi- nefs to be equally well acquainted, becaufe, though he underftands French tolerably well, he never converfes in that language. He fpeaks German, and likewife Ruffian imperfectly, on occaiions; but, in company his habitual rcferve rarely forfakes him. Naturally modeft, taciturn, and fhy, he fcarcely ever obtrudes his opinions on any fubject, and rather jetires from notice, than iblicits admiration. As he has no houfe in Vienna, he refides at this time on his eftate, COURT OF BERLIN, etc. 339 eftate, about two leagues off, on the road to. Lintz, in great privacy ; coming fome- timeSj but rarely, to pay his Court to the Sovereign, or the Minifters. Among the latter, Prince Kaunitz alone treats him with marks of friendship and diftindion. Nei- ther his education, his manners, nor his habits, qualify him indeed for the great worldi In a mixed company he is loft, xmlefs the difcourfe turn upon war. Then his countenance fucldenly lights up, and he becomes animated, eloquent, in a word a different mam I have witnefled with plea- fufe this tranfition. General Laudohn, for he has not yet been created a Field Marfhal, though Fre- deric adclrefled him as ftich at the inter- view of Neifs j is now about fixty-two years of age, {bmewhat infirm, though . originally of a tough and vigorous confli- tution. Subject to violent diforders of the ftomach and bowels, which frequently threaten his life, it is to be feared that one of thefe attacks may prove fatal to him. z 2 Like 34 MEMOIRS OF THE Like Lacy, he rifes in height above the middle fize ; but Laudohn conveys only the idea of a foldier, rough, inelegant, and inured to camps. His face is long and meagre, his features coarfe and dark ; more, I believe, from the effect of hardfhips, than from their natural formation. He wears his own hair, which time has con- fiderably thinned, and prefents to common eyes, a lank and bony figure, deftitute of animation or addrefs. Under fuch an ex- terior are concealed thofe talents, which have rendered him fo juftly celebrated, and which, on more than one occafion, have ihaken the PrufTian Throne. The Kmperor, if he does not honor him with the fame marks of perional confidence 'which he mews to Lacy, is neverthelefs deeply impreffed with a fenfe of his pail fervices, and a conviction of his great abi- lities. As a General, the quality which peculiarly characterizes him, is the rapidity and decifion of his movements. After viewing the ground, and reconnoitring the COURT Ol- BERLIN, CtC. 34! the pofition of the enemy, he takes his refohition in a moment, and executes it # with the velocity of lightning. He is un- able to ad by a long train of reflection, which only renders him irrefolute, as he himfelf declares ; and it is commonly ailerted even by thofe who moft admit his claims to fuperior excellence, that he is not formed to direct the complicated operations of a campaign. Laudohn is by birth a Livonian, born in or about the year 1716, when that province was already fubjected by the arms of Peter the Great. His father was only a Lieutenant in the Ruffian armies, of Scotch extraction, being defcended from the family of Loudon, though the ortho- graphy of the name has undergone ibmc alteration in the lapfe of time, or in the change of country. It reflects no little honor on the Scottiih and Irifh nations, that they have given fo many iiluPtrious commanders to Europe, during the courfe of the prefent century. Keith, Brown, z 3 Elphin- MEMOIRS OF THE Elphinflone, Lacy, Laudohn, as well as various others of inferior reputation whom I could name, in the Imperial, Ruffian, Saxon, and Pruffian fervice, are proofs of the aflertion. At a very early period of life, Laudohn, as much from neceffity as from inclination, embraced the profeffion of arms; and he actually fought in the ranks, as a private ibldier, under the Im- ^perial Generals, during the war of 1733, between the Emperor Charles the Sixth and France. When peace was concluded two years afterwards, finding himfelf with- out provifion of any kind, he was again compelled to feek for employment. At he other extremity of Europe, the Em- prefs of Rufiia, Anne, had juft engaged in hoftilities with the Turks ; and it is indif- putable that Laudohn walked from Heidel- berg in the Palatinate, to the banks of the Black Sea, with his knapfack on his ihoulder. Lacy and Munich being then occupied in the fiege of Oczakow, Laudohn ferved under them ; as he did during the whole progrefs COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 343 progrefs of the war, till its termination in 1739. Returning once more into Germany, he firft attempted to enter, as a iubaltern officer, into the Pruffian army ; but his en- deavours proving ineffectual., he therefore in the end of the year 1741, or the be- ginning of 1742, found means to procure an Enfign's eommiffion in the Auftrian fervice. Frederic could not then forefee, how dear the rejection, of fuch an officer would coft him. Laudohn, unaided by friends or connexions of any kind, rofe (lowly in military honors. While a Lieu- tenant, quartered in Hungary, he married a Sclavonian woman, who pofleffed neither attractions of mind, nor of perfon. She is of an obfcure family, and brought him little or no fortune. Sickly, uneducated, plain, me never appears in public ; and her principal merit confifts in the attachment that (he feels for her hufband, which rifes to a fort of idolatry. They have no children, nor, as I believe, had they ever any ifTue. z 4 When 344 MEMOIRS OF THE When Laudohn attained to the rank of Captain, Prince Kaunitz firft diftinguifhed him, and honored him with proofs of peculiar efteem ; a circumftance, of which that Minifter is with reafon vain. During the war of 1741, he was wounded, and it is the only material hurt he ever received in the courfe of fo many campaigns. The eminent fervices which he rendered to Maria Therefa between 1757 and 1763, were rewarded by her after the late peace, with the donation of an eftate in Moravia. She afterwards purchafed it of him for the fum of eighty thoufand florins, or about feven th'ouiand pounds fterlingj and he may now be efteemed wealthy, according to the eftimation of competence in Auftria. His military appointments, which in time of peace, do not fall fhort of near a thoufand pounds flerling a year, will be greatly aug- mented in cafe of a war, as there can be no doubt of his fervices being wanted ; and his private fortune is, befides, ample. We are pleafed, when we reflect that fo illuilrious COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 345 illuftrious a man is not fubjected in his age to any privations ; and that he cannot complain of the ingratitude or neglect of thofe whom he has ferved, But, if he has experienced the bounty of the Sovereign, or the protection of the Minifter, he has felt not lefs fenfibly the jealoufy of the courtiers, as well as the enmity of the nobi- lity. They treat his perfon with cold aliena- tion ; accufe him of being unfit, from the conftitqtional melancholy of his temper, to contribute to the pleafures of fociety ; and even attempt to attribute his greateft exploits more to fortune than to merit. There are neverthelefs, even in Vienna, many perfons of the higheft rank, who do juftice to his fuperior abilities, and who confider him as the beft prop of the Auftrian greatnefs in a time of war. It might be invidious, and even improper, to attempt a clofe comparifon between two living commanders, who have diftinguimed themfelves fo much in different lines, and who may yet add new laurels to thofe which MEMOIRS OF THE which they have already acquired. We may however fafely afiert that Lacy's ta- lents are more univerfal, Laudohn's more concentrated. One is greater in the theory of war, in the vaft detail requifite for enabling an army to acl: with effect, and in combining or directing a variety of mi- litary operations. The other has no equal in rapid, decifive, and fuccefsful execution. Lacy is more refpected at Vienna : Lau- dohn is more dreaded at Berlin, The former enjoys all the confidence of Jofeph: the latter poffefies all the efteem of Frederic. If the Auftrian officer looks up to the firft ; the Auftrian foldier has his eye fixed on the fecond, crowds to his ftandard, and efteems himfelf certain of victory, under fuch a leader. Both have performed the moft fignal fervices. But, it would be unjuft to compare the affair of Maxcn, or the retreat of Torgau, where Lacy acted in a fubor r dinate capacity under Daun ; with the capr ture of Glatz and Schweidnitz, or the vic- tory of Landfnut, in all which Laudohn commanded COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 347 commanded without a fuperior. If Lacy is more confidered by the prefent age, in the circle where he moves ; Laudohn will probably fill a much higher place in the volume of fame, in diftant times, and among foreign nations, when the little malignities, prejudices, and partialities of the hour are buried in oblivion. But it is time that Tclofe this letter. 34-8 MEMOIRS 'OF THE LETTER XIII. Preparations for War. Arrival of Troops. Croats. Emprefs Queen' 's Repugnance to Boftili- iies. Advantages po faffed by PruJJia. Efforts of the Archduchcfs Cbriftina to prevent a Rup- ture. Proportion of difmantling Vienna. The Imperial Palace. VIENNA, March J9th, 1778. >npHE die feems at length to be thrown, f and war is about to begin as foon as the feafon will permit. This city, which lefs than four months ago, when I arrived here, prefented a picture of general tranquillity, is now transformed into an Arfenal. The ftreets, as well as the public places, are crowded with cannon, ammunition, baggage, and all the apparatus of an approaching cam- paign. Every day, new regiments arrive ; S/v-ho, after having been reviewed, continue their march towards Bohemia or Moravia, Nothing COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 349 Nothing can convey a more ftriking idea of the greatnefs of the Houfe of Auftria, the magnitude of its refources, the extent of its dominion, and the number of pro- vinces fubjed to Maria Therefa, than the fcene to which I am daily a witnefs. From, the fhore of the Adriatic, and from the foot of the Appennine, to the frontiers of Mol- davia and Walachia, troops are conftantly pouring in to maintain her quarrel. Al- banians, Croats, Hungarians, and Italians, fucceffively arrive under the walls of Vi- enna. So many different nations, united in one caufe, remind me of the fabulous ages of the Earth, when all Greece, or the lefler Afia, flocked to a common ftandard, and fought under the fame leader. It is in the irregular forces which Maria Therefa can bring into the field, that me poflefles a great fuperiority over her adver- fary. The Croats and Hungarians, fierce, undifciplined, and fubje&ed to fcarcely any military laws, are attached to the Houfe of Auftria by prejudices and predilections of 35 MEMOIRS OF THE of religion, manners, and education, pecu- liar to themfelves. Frederic has no troops of a fimilar defcription to oppofe to them, equally faithful and loyal. The Croat rarely or never deferts : he is even incapa- citated by his ignorance of German, from mixing intimately with the foldiers of that nation. A degree of primeval rudenefs and fimplicity characterizes them,- totally unlike the fpirit which animates the mer- cenary ftiperidiary of modern armies; Fa- thers of families, followed by their fons, at the command of their Sovereign, cheer^ fully quit their habitations on the diftant banks of the Drave, the Teifs, and the Lower Danube, to fpill their blood in her caufe. Hitherto the Croats have never been confidered as regular troops ; but, it is now intended to clothe and difcipline them like the other regiments in the Auf- trian fervice. It is a fight equally novel and pleafmg, to fee thefe corps arrive, drefied in the rude garb of their refpectlve provinces, and prefenting vn their whole 1 5 appear* COURT OF BERLINj etfi. 35! appearance, a contraft to the foldier of every other European fervice. From the great magazines in the neighbourhood of this city, they are furnimed with arms, accoutrements, and all other requifites, be- fore they profecute their march towards the frontiers. Maria Therefa derives neverthelefs, little gratification or pleafure from thefe exhi- bitions of her power, and teftimonies of affection to her perfon. It is no longer a fecret that fhe deprecates a rupture, and is reluctantly dragged forward by her fon. From the moment that intelligence arrived of the Elector of Bavaria's death, fhe fore- faw with regret its probable confequences. Having palTed the active period of life, and only defirous of repofe, fhe is not to be roufed by objects of ambition, or im- pelled by a recollection of paft injuries fuftained from Pruffia. Thofe who have acceis to her, witnefs the dejection of her fpirits, and the agitation of her mind on the arrival of every courier : they fee^ her eyes 352 MEMOIRS OF THE eyes perpetually red with weeping, or fuf- fufed in tears. Inftead of demonftratiag her fatisfaction at the promptitude, with which her orders for putting the Auftrian forces in motion, have been obeyed ; (lie averts her eyes from every difplay of her military ftrengtru Only a few days when one of the fineft regiments in the fervice arrived from Mantua, on the Efpla- nade, under the walls of Vienna, no en- treaties could induce her to look upon them, from the apartments of the palace* She runs w r ith eagerncfs to clofe the mut- ters, whenever troops pafs under her win-* dows. Anxious to prevent fo great a calamity as war, me pafTes half her time in prayer ; and yefterday me remained for three hours on her knees, in the Cathedral, invoking the Divine blefling to aid her ef- forts for maintaining the peace of Germany. Prince Kaunitz is gloomy, thoughtful, and lefs communicative in fociety. His fitu- ation, which .is a fmgular one, demands confurnmate addrefs, in order, while he preferves COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 353 preferves the affection of the mother, not to irritate, or alienate the fon. During his long administration, he has not, probably, found himfelf in fo painful, or fo delicate a predicament. The Emperor alone appears unaffectedly gay, conftantly in action, on horfeback before the fun is rifen, and ready to receive with alacrity the various bodies of troops on their arrival. Whatever may be the final event of the war which impends, two great advantages attend Pruflia at its commencement. The firft refults from the juftice of the caufe in which Frederic is engaged : for, even here in Vienna, the claims of the Houfe of; Auftria are by no means confidered as in- conteftable. In addition to fo important a circumftance, which is neither to be de- fpifed nor forgotten, we Ihould recollect: the alliance and co-operation of Saxony. That fertile and powerful Electorate, co- vering the whole frontier of Brandenburgh, is already in Frederic's pofleflion, and muft be protected by his arms. If it is the VOL. i. A A caufe 354 MEMOIRS OF THE eaufe of the German Empire in general, it is the caufe of Saxony in a Ipecial manner, for which he is about to fhake off the in- firmities of age, and to appear again in the field. Supported by the Saxons, while he is fupplied from Mifnia and Lufatia with provificns, he can commence offenlive ope- rations, and render Bohemia the immediate theatre of war. His intimate knowledge of that country, where he has made fo many campaigns, mud neceflarily give him a vaft fuperiority, and perhaps enable him to wreft the northern provinces from Maria Therefa. Beiides the other motives which impel the Emprefs Queen to deplore hoftilities, is the peculiar pofition cf her daughter, the Archduchefs Chriftina. That Princefs, who is tenderly beloved by Mario. Therefa, w r as married near twelve years ago to Prince Albert of Saxony, fon to the late King of Poland, and uncle of the reigning Elector. He has ever fmce refided principally in the Court, of Vienna., and he has apartments ia COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 355 in the Imperial palace. Having been con- ftituted Governor of Hungary, he and the Archduchefs occupy the caftle of Prefburg ; but they are now here on a vifit to the Emprefs, over whom her daughter pof- fefies a great afcendant. She is warmly attached to her huiband ; who, on his part, from intereft, as well as from a fenfe of honor and gratitude, feels himfelf not lefs bound to eipoufe the Auftrian caufe, and to fried, if neceflary, his blood in the prefent quarrel. As it is fuppofed that he will command one of the armies deftined to act againft the common enemy ; in the difcharge of that duty, it may be his lot to enter Dref- den, and to defolate the dominions of the family from which he fprings. Such a con- flict of principles and obligations, cannot fail to be deeply painful to a mind of fenfibi- lity. The Archduchefs, his wife, is known to be affected by it in the livelieft manner. She deprecates the profpect of a rupture, which muft involve her hufband in un- fpeakable embarrafTments ; and fhe has A A 2 more 356 MEMOIRS OF THE more than once thrown herfelf at her mo- ther's feet, conjuring her with tears, while it is ftill time, to recede from her preten- fions on the Bavarian fucceffion, and to flop the effufion of human blood. The Emperor can neither be unacquainted with this fat, as may naturally be prefumed ; nor is he ignorant of the Archduchefs's in- fluence over the Emprefs. It is poflible that he may one day refent, and even punifh her oppofition to his favorite mea- fures. The Carnival is now at an end ; and Lent, which is here obferved with extra- ordinary rigor, in compliance with the Emprefs's devotion, leaves me more at leiiure to vifit the principal objects of curiofity in Vienna. This capital conveys no mean idea of the grandeur of the Auf- trian line, in whom are united fo-many kingdoms and provinces. Thofe which have been diflevered from it in our own time, within the laft fifty years, would form of themfelves a potent Monarchy. Naples, Sicily, COURT OF BERLIN, etc. 357 Sicily, Sardinia, Servia, Bofnia, and Silefia, all belonged to the late Emperor, Charles the Sixth, at different periods of his reign. Mar- fhal Colloredo told me, a few days ago, that he had been in garrifon at Belgrade, at Mef- fina, and at Breflaw, when each of thofe places formed a part of the Auftrian domi- nions. Vienna is not only populous, but the ftreets are crowded with people of va- rious nations. In my walks, I conftantly meet with Hungarians, Greeks, Turks, and Poles, all habited in the peculiar drefs of their refpedive countries. Nothing is more piclurefque and amufmg than fuch a diverfity, which rarely occurs in London, or in Paris. It is not, however, the city of Vienna, flriclly fo denominated, which difplays either the extent or the magnificence of a capital, fui table to the Chief of the Ger- man Empire, the Sovereign of fo vaft a trad: of Europe. The neceffity, whether real or imaginary, of fortifying Vienna, contracts it to a very narrow compafs*; indeed, to fo A A 3 fmall MEMOIRS OF THE fniall a fpace, that I have walked com- pletely round the ramparts, at a quick pace, within fifty minutes. But, the fuburbs, which inveft it like a belt, and which are only feparated from it by the Efplanade, are far fuperior in magnitude, as well as in- beauty and elegance, to the city itfelf. There the great nobility principally refide in fummer, when not abfent on their eftates, or not ferving in the field. Probably, the next century will fee Vienna difmantled, mid rendered, like Peterfhurgh or Berlin, an open place. I have heard the queftion frequently agitated during my ftay here, whether it might not be made fo at this time, without danger. The Turks are no longer terrible, as they were in the fix- teenth century; and the fiege of 1683, when Leopold fled to Paflau, will not be fpeedily renewed in our time. Againft the King of Pruffia, the moil formidable adver- fary of the Houfe of Auftria, the Danube alone forms.almoft a fufficient protection, if guarded by the Imperia.l forces entrenched COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 359 behind the river. But, Maria Therefa has not yet forgotten that in 1741, the French and Bavarians advanced to St. Polten, fcarce- ly four leagues diftant ; and that in 1758, when Frederic befieged Olmutz,, terror and confirmation pervaded Vienna. The re- colleclion of thefe difaftrous fcenes is too deeply imprefled on her memory, ever to be erafed ; and as often as the fubjecl: of difmantling Vienna has been mentioned to her, fhe exclaims, " I have already twice " feen this city a frontier garrifon, expofed " to hourly attack : I will not unneceffa- " rily expofe myfelf to fimilar or greater " misfortunes in my old age." It is how- ever, more than pofTible, that Jofeph, when- ever he fucceeds his mother, may adopt an oppofitc line of policy and conduct. The palace of the " Favorita," fo fre- quently mentioned by Lady Wortley Mon- tague, in which Charles the Sixth expired, is now converted by his daughter, into a feminary of education. Never was any re- fidence lefs princely, or even commodious, Refembling rather a Nunnery, than the ha- A A 4 bitation 360 MEMOIRS OF THE bitation of a Sovereign, it ftands in one o the ftreets of a dully fuburb, without the fmalleft court or area in front, and com- manding no profpect whatever. The " Belvi- " dere," which belonged to the great Prince Eugene, and which was purchafed by Maria Therefa, from his only daughter and heirefs, the Princefs of Saxe Hilburghaufen, is far more fplendid. ' Conftru&ed on a fine emi- nence, at the extremity of the Carinthian fuburb, it enjoys an extenfive view, termi- nated to the fouth by the lofty mountains of Styria. Magnificent as it is, none of the Imperial Family ever inhabit it ; and the Emperor has, therefore, converted it into a repofitory for paintings. Some of the houfes of the great nobility far exceed in beauty, as well as in elegance and grandeur, either the " Favorita," or the " Belvidere." The Imperial palace itfelf, which is fitu- ate within the walls of Vienna, where both the Emprefs Queen, the Emperor, and fo many other members of their Family are lodged, conveys fcarcely any idea of the Ma- jefty of the modern Crefars, the fucceflbrs of COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 36 J of Charlemagne, and the pretended repre- ientatives of Auguftua. A vaft, confufed mafs of building, without fymmetry, plan^ or architecture, it confifts of feveral courts communicating with each other, erected in different ages, and occupying a prodigious fpace ; but deftitute of any, even the fmalleft garden. The apartments which her Impe- rial Majefty inhabits, are indeed pleafant, becaufe they have a fouthern afpeci, and in winter may be faid to form a comfort- able, if not a princely refidence : but, before the end of May, the heat commonly renders them infupportable. Within the circuit of the palace, are not only comprifed various houfes, appropriated to fome of the great Officers of State and Minifters, who arc lodged at the expence of the Sovereign ; it includes befides, in its immenfe circum- ference, a fuperb Manege ; the GermaiV play-houfe ; the royal library ; the cabinet of natural luftory j the jewel-office, where are preierved the Imperial and Bohemian Crowns ; no lefs than three chapels, in one pf which the Emprefs ufually hears mafs every 362 ' MEMOIRS OF THE every day ; and the " Jen de Paume, or Racket Court. The Emperor plays fre- quently at this game, in which he is tole- rably expert. I faw him yefterday, in a grey jacket, and thick worfted (lockings, engaged at it for a confiderable time, with his brother-in-law the Duke of Saxe Tef- chen, and two noblemen who made the party. The exercife is violent, and might prove peculiarly fatal to the Emperor, who has an anurifm in his leg. When he is heated, the pulfation of the artery is fo ftrong, that it may be perceptibly felt with the finger, through the thickeft flocking. It is curious to reflect that the deftiny of Germany and of Europe might be mate- rially changed in an inftant, by the burfting of a blood-veflel, the coat of which cannot exceed the thicknefs of a wafer. * Early in the courfe of next month, I may probably vifit Hungary ; but I mall write again, before I quit this capital. COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. LETTER XIV. Anecdotes of Mctaftafio.r-State of Public Affairs. Departure of the E?nperor, to join the Army in Bohemia. VIENNA, April $tb, 1778. tNSTEAD of wearying you with details * of the military preparations, which here occupy the attention and converfation of every fociety ; let me, before I fet out for Buda, gratify your curiofity on another fubjecl:. You afk, whether I have feen Metaftafio, and you defire to hear fome particulars relative to fo illuftrious a perlbn. He is fo little feen in Vienna, that a ftranger, unlefs introduced to him at his own houfe, may pafs many months, I had almoft faid years, without often meeting him. I have been twice in company with him at Prince Colloredo's, where he is commonly found on great feftivals : but, neither his inclina- tion, his ftate of health, nor his period of life, 364 MEMOIRS OF THE life, allow him to mix much in crowd?. To Prince Kaunitz's he never comes ; for they are not on terms of amity. Whether the mifunderftanding has originated with the Minifter, or may be attributed to the. poet, is a point much contefted ; and on which I am unable to give a decided opinion. If however, he does not enjoy the friend- fhip of the Minifter, he has, for near fifty years, been conftantly honored with the fmiles of the Sovereign. The invitation of Charles the Sixth induced him to quit Rome for Vienna, and the patronage of that Monarch fixed him here for life. Though he has exchanged the banks of the Tyber, and the claffic air of Italy, for the ungenial climate of the frozen Danube ; his fancy does not appear to have fufFered either in delicacy, or in luxuriance, from the traniplantation. Yet the late Emperor, while he rewarded Metaftafio with munifi- cence, and loaded him with carefles, did not- fcruple to fetter the powers of the poet, by impofmg on him laws fcarccly compatible with COURT OF BERLIN, 'etc. 365 with the enthufiafm of genius. Metaftafio, in compofmg his fineft pieces, was always obliged to accommodate the opera to the length of time which the Emperor indi- cated or commanded. Endowed with more than ordinary fenfibility, it may naturally be fuppofed that he could not refift the effect of beauty. The Countefs d'Altheim, one of the moft charming women of the Court of Vienna, was the object of his pafiion. She had been previoufly beloved by Charles the Sixth himfelf, who was fup- pofed to have been admitted by her to the ufual privileges of royal lovers ; nor was it till after the deceafe of his Imperial rival, that Metaftafio ventured to divulge his ftame. Even then, as if confcious of his temerity, he drew acrofs it the myfteri- ous veil of poetry and fiction. He has celebrated the Countefs d'Altheim under an imaginary name, in various of his compo- fitions. Whether me returned his affedion, is doubtful; but Meteftafio's attachment, like Petrarch's for Laura, or Tafib's for Leonora 366 MEMOIRS OF THE Leonora d'Efte, never exceeded the limits of refpedtful homage, and demanded no improper facrifices. This celebrated perfon, who is now near eighty years of age, though he enjoys un- common health, begins to bend under the preflure of time. Thofe who know him intimately, allure me that he is exceedingly broken and altered within the laft five years. In his perfon he is (hort and thick, but not corpulent. His countenance is ex- preffive ; his nofe difproportionately large, and his complexion pale or rather fallow, like an Italian. He always wears the drefs of an Abbe, and nothing can be fo metho- dical as his manner of life. Metaftafio rifes betimes, goes out every day at a quarter before twelve to hear mafs, returns home, and dines punctually at two. For near, or quite thirty years paft, he has never dined out any where. In the evening he repairs conftantly, when his health permits, to the houfe of Mademoifelle Figarolle. She is a woman of quality, has a very cultivated mind, COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 367 mind, and though no longer young, fhe has not ceafed to be agreeable in Metaftafio's opinion, \vhofe attachment to her is of antient date. Precifely at ten he leaves her, and retires to reft". Baron Hagen, Prefident of the Aulic Council, divides with Mademoifelle Figa- rolle, his friendship and his leifure. They pafs much of their time together, occupied in literary purfuits, peculiarly in the perufal of the great writers of antiquity. Metaf- tafio fpeaks French, and converfes in that language with facility-; but, like every Italian, he prefers his native tongue. He is well lodged, on a third floor, in the " Cole Marck," and the apartments which he occupies, are given him by the Crown. Maria Therefa, emulous of her father, during the courfe of her long reign, has diftinguifhed him by every poffible mark of favor and confideradon. He receives from her bounty at this time, an annual penfion of fix thoufand florins, or near five hundred pounds fterling ; and if we except 13 Voltaire, 368 MEMOIRS Of THE Voltaire, I believe he is, without difpute, the wealthier!: poet now exifting in Europe. From his infancy he feems to have been not lefs favored by Fortune, than enriched by Nature. No perfon here with whom I have converfed, ventures to affert pofitively the name of his parents ; and even the pre- cife place of his birth is hardly lefs con- tefted than that of Homer. He was born either in Tufcany, or in the Papal territo- ries; but, of an origin very inferior and ob- fcure. When a boy, like Pope, " he lifped in " numbers ;" compofed verfes without effort or almoft premeditation, and recited them in the ftreets of Rome, to which city he had been carried in his childhood. It was there that his uncommon powers excited the wonder and attention of Gravina, one of the moft eminent legal practitioners of Italy, in the beginning of the prefent century. Such was their effect on him, that he took the boy home, educated him ; and finding his capacity expand with his years, Gravina adopted him, and made him heir lo his little COURT OF BERLIN, etc. 369 little fortune. Even his real name is totally tmknown, or at leaft very problematical. The denomination which he bears, and which he has rendered fo celebrated, was given him by Gravina, either to conceal his original name, or as a fubftitute ; Me- taftafio being a word of Greek derivation, and evidently factitious. Charles the Sixth, by inviting him to Vienna, and amply rewarding his talents, placed him above dependance. The prefent Emprefs has rendered him wealthy. He now pafles the evening of life, in the midft of the moft delicious repofe, furrounded by every com- fort, eafy in his circumftances, and fecure t)f immortality as long as poetry and genius are admired among men. This morning, the Duke of Saxe Tefchen fet out for Olmutz, accompanied by the Archduchefs his wife, who quitted him at the diftance of fome leagues, to return to this city: a feparation which did not take place, 'without violent emotions on her part. It is underftood that he is to com- VOL. i. B B mand 37 MEMOIRS OF THE in and the army of Moravia, aided by Mar- fhal Haddick : an appointment probably chofen, as removing him to a diftauce from Saxony. All the preparations and indica- tions of a fpeedy rupture, continue. Lau- dohn, who at length has been created a Field- Marihal, is already arrived in Bohemia, where the ilorru is expected to burft. Yet, negotiations ftill fubfift, and couriers come alinoft daily from Drefden or Berlin, which keep alive the hope of peace. The Empe- ror's departure is however fuppofed to be imminent, after which every rational pro- fpect of an accommodation muft be at an end. We know that the Archduke Maxi- milian and Marfhal Lacy are to accompany him. My next letter will be written from fome part of Hungary. POSTSCRIPT. April 1 2th. The Emperor went yeiterday to join the army. He and his brother Maximilian rofe at four o'clock in the morning j and as COU&.T OF BERLIN, 6tC. 37 1 as foon as it was light, they walked for fome time on the ramparts, waiting for the Kmprefs Queen, in order to take leave of her. When fhe was ready* they repaired to her apartment, and proceeded together to the chapel in the palace. There, on their knees, they pafTed above an hour in prayer, invoking the Divine afliftance on the Auf- trian arms. Maria Therefa was extremely agitated during the whole fervice ; but, when at the concluiion, fhe prepared to bid her fons adieu, her grief became too ftrong for her frame. She held the Emperor long in her arms, fobbed, and, at feparating from him, Nearly fainted. Jofeph tore himfelf from his mother's embraces^ carrying with, him her parting benediction. Marfhal Lacy is gone with them, and they took the road to Olmutz, whence they repair ^to Prague. I am fetting out for Efterhazi in Hungary. B B 2 MEMOIRS OF THR LETTER XV. Buda. Flagellants. State of Hungary. Tttrkifo Edifices at Buda. Public Baths. BUDA, April 19th,, 1778, T LEFT Vienna a few hours after I had concluded my laft letter, and have been already three days in this city. The con- traft between the Hungarian and the Auf- trian capital, is one of the moft ftriking to be conceived. Never were two nations more diffimilar in manners, drefs, and ap- pearance, than the German and the Hun- garian. Even the fuperftition of Vienna, is fer outdone by that of Buda. The firft object which I faw from my windows, on the morning after my arrival, were flagel- lants, marching flowly through the ftreets, covered with blood, and dragging along crofles of a vafl weight, followed by crowds 6 of COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 3/3 of people. It was Good Friday, and the whole city feemed to be animated by the fame fpirit of penitential and gloomy de- votion. I could have fancied myfelf at Madrid, half a century ago. The flagel- lants wore hoods or facks over their faces, in order to conceal them ; but their backs, which were entirely naked, bore the fan- guinary marks of the fcourge at every ftep. I am aflured that the perfons who inflidt on themfelves this voluntary punimment, are frequently men of rank, and that the practice is by no means confined to the inferior orders. It is not my intention to enter on the particulars of my journey through Hun- gary. I flopped for a few hours at Ra'ab, a city memorable for being the termination of the Ottoman conquefts towards Germany. Sultan Amurath the Third made himfelf mafter of it, towards the clofe of the fix- teenth century; a period when the Houfe ef Auftria, under the feeble government of J-lodolph the Second, was funk into the B r, 3 - mod 374 MEMOIRS OF THE moft deplorable ftate of political annihi- lation. Much of the road tq Buda lies near the bank of the Danube, which is of very confiderable magnitude. It is finking to behold fo noble a river flowing majefti- cally in filence, through one of the richeft countries in Europe ; but almoft dcftitute of commerce, navigation, or population. From Raab to this city, a tract of near a hundred miles, I faw fcarcely a iingle boat of any kind upon the ftream. All is fdlitary and inanimate ; unlike the fcenery of the Rhine or the Loire, where, at every curve of the river, villages, caftles, and habitations prefent themfelves to the eye. It is not in the tyranny or incapacity of the prefent government, that we mufl feek for the principal caufe of this defola- tion. Hungary, till the acceffion of the late Emperor Charles the Sixth, was, for more than two centuries, the moft unfor- tunate kingdom of Europe. The provinces of the new world were not more cruelly plundered or ravaged by the Spanim con- querors. COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 375 querors, than Hungary was defolated by the Turkifh Sultans. Solyman the Magni- ficent and his fucceflbrs, repeatedly carried off the greater part of the inhabitants into flavery, without diftinction of age, rank, or fex. Completely mailers of the kingdom, if we except the royal title and ornaments, fcarcely any thing elfe remained to the Houfe of Auftria. It is only ninety-two years fince the expulfion of the Turks from the city where I am now writing ; Charles the Fifth, Duke of Lorrain, at the head of the Imperial forces, having en- tered it at the Breach, in 1686, after a long and defperate refiftance. To the Ot- toman devaluations, fucceeded the oppref- five tyranny of Leopold and Jofeph the Firft. Perpetual infurrections, and attempts at emancipation, were reprefled with all the ieverity of arbitrary power. The fcaffold of Eperies, a town of Upper Hungary, continued for many months to exhibit a fcene of blood the moil revolting to human fiature, and which has no parallel in mo- B B 4 derri 376 MEMOIRS OF THE dern hiftory. A great length of time, and a wife adminiftration, fuftained by the judicious encouragement of induflry, arts, and manufactures, can alone, by their united operation, reftore Hungary to its juft rank in the fcale of nations* Buda prefents at this time many curious monuments of the Mahometan tafte, as well as fuperftition. In the lower town, on the very edge of the Danube, ftands a mofque, with its minaret, in perfect pre- fervation, which is now converted into a manufactory of falt-petre. Though defaced by time and neglect, it conveys no unfavor- able idea of Turkifh architecture. Its figure is an octagon, and it conftituted the prin- cipal religious edifice of the city, while Buda was under the Ottoman yoke. But the hot baths, from which I am juft re- turned, are a ftill more amufmg object of infpection. It was impofiible not to recol- lect, while confidering them, the defcrip- tion given by Lady Wortley Montague, of the baths of Sophia. Men, women, and children COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 377 children were bathing promifcuoufly, or lying round the bafon, ftretehed in a variety of attitudes. The females, though not altogether naked, were nearly fo, and the greater part excited no fentiment except difguft. I faw, jieverthelefs, among them, one or two tolerably pretty figures, occu- pied in combing each other's hair. The Turks, while in poflefiion of Buda, feem to have paid particular attention to the conftruction and prefervation of the pub- lic baths. They are large, and ftill form a principal recreation of the inhabitants, who pafs many hours almoft every day, either in bathing, or on the fides of the bafon. The heat is, neverthelefs, fo great, occa- fioned by the vapor which ariies from the water, that it is fcarcely fupportable beyond a few minutes. Every part of the building is comppfed of (lone, the vaulted roof being perforated with holes, in order to admit the light. The water, which pours con- tinually into the bafon, through two or more channels, is ftrongly impregnated with 378 MEMOIRS or THE with mineral qualities. Though the price paid for bathing by the common people, which is only about a halfpenny, cannot exclude even the loweft vulgar, yet no dif- folution of manners is found to arife from fuch a promifcuous concourfe of both fexes, in a ftate approaching to nudity. The baths in the Rafcian or Sclavonian fuburb, are ftill hotter than thofe in the Hungarian town. Both merit peculiar attention, as being, I believe, the only edifices of the kind that exift in Europe, which have been conft-ruded by the Turks, beyond the limits of the Ottoman dominions. Every country has had its periods of comparative felicity, glory, and tranquillity. The golden age of Hungary, was unquef- tionably the reign of Matthias Corvinus, in the fifteenth century ; when Buda, one of the moft polifhed and civilized capitals in the world, the feat of arts and letters, looked down with contempt upon Vienna. The Emperor Erederic the Third, driven from that city, and reduced to wander igno- minioufly COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 379 minioufly over Germany, beheld his Palace occupied by Matthias Corvinus ; who little imagined that the Houfe of Auftria, from fuch a ftate of depreffion, would fo foon emerge into power and profperity. But, with their independence, the Hungarians loft their political pre-eminence ; and Buda, like Prague, abandoned by its Princes, fuc- ceflively funk into the deferted capital of a Turkim or an Auftrian province. The Archduchefs Chriftina and her hufband, rarely or never vifit it : when not at Vienna, they refide at Prefburg, where the infignia of the crown are always preferred. Yet, the fuperb fituation of Buda, in the center of the kingdom, and the local beauties, as well as advantages of its pofition, might well challenge the preference. To-mor- row I fhall continue my journey towards Schemnitz. 380 MEMOIRS OF THE LETTER XVI. Journey from Euda. Mines at Schemnitz. Mines of Cremnitz. Prejburg* The Cajlle. State of Affairs at Vienna. VIENNA, May i6th, 1778. TT is full feventy miles north from Buda to * the mines of Schemnitz, through a wild, mountainous, and in many parts an almoft uninhabited country. The peafants, male and female, partake of the rudenefs of the foil, and appear to be in a flate of penury, or rather of mifery. Few of the women had any covering below the knee, except boots ; while the men were wrapt in black fheep fkins, with the wool outward. Even the poftillions who drove us, had no other covering ; and their long mouflachios, added to their fur bonnets, gave them the appear- ance of Tartars, mora than of Europeans. The town of Schemnitz, where I pafled three days, in order to vifit the mines, ftands COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 381 (lands in a valley furrounded on all fides by lofty hills. It may be faid to impend over a hollow abyfs, the ground on which it is built, being every where excavated or un- dermined. Even in the midfl of the prin- cipal market place, there are fhafts or open- ings, by which one may immediately de- fcend many hundred fathoms into the earth. Having put on a miner's drefs and bon- net, preparations which are indifpenfable, on account of the water that every where drips through the fiffures of the mines; I entered them by means of ladders that conduct from one fubterranean gallery to another, through paflages fo narrow as fearcely to admit a fmgle perfon at a time. Four little boys attended, holding lamps. In proportion as we defcended lower into the earth, the heat perceptibly increafed, 'till it became, in fome places, almoft too clofe or fuffocating for refpira- tion. Though it was' fearcely eight o'clock in the morning when we entered the mine, we MEMOIRS OF THE we did not arrive before eleven, at " the tc gallery of the Emperor Francis ;" fo called from its having been conftru&ed under that Prince's reign. Here I found myfelf full fifteen hundred feet under the opening of the higheft (haft. This ftupendous cata- comb or gallery, which extends in length near fixty thoufand feet, or more than feven Englifh miles, has coft immenfe fums to make, as well as to repair and maintain ; the incumbent earth being every where fupported by beams of wood, frequently double and triple. Some hundred thoufand florins are annually expended for the pur- pofe. Below the Emperor Francis's gallery, there are two other ftories, the deepeft of which is three hundred feet beneath ; but, as they contained no particular object of curiofity, we declined vifiting them. In no part does the interior of the mine open into caverns or chambers of confiderable fize ; the largeft which I faw, being fcarcely capable of containing forty perfons: a point of view in which they are very in- ferior COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 383 ferior as objects of admiration, to the mines of Danmora in Sweden. Though gold, filver, copper, and lead, are all found in the mines of Scheinnitz, the laft forms the predominant metal. Their original difcovery is almoft loft in the barbarifm and obfcurity of the middle ages ; but, it is indifputable that they have been worked for eleven hundred years. At this time they find employment for near twenty-fix thoufand men, women, and children, in the different departments or proceffes. An admirable police is main- tained ; no criminal or malefactor being ever fent there, and no female permitted even to enter the mines. Unlike thofe of Sweden, Carniola, and many others in various parts of Europe, which are a fort of fubterranean colonies, the workmen at Schemnitz never deep below. After fix, eight, or twelve hours of labour, they re- mount, and are relieved by others. The Turks, who were fo long fovereigns and matters of the far greater part of Hungary, never never took pofleflion of Schemnitz, though they penetrated to a village only two miles diftant. Content with exacting an annual tribute of fome thoufand florins, they indo- lently abandoned the mines to the Auftrian Princes. Nothing can be fo precarious, fluctuating, and incapable of calculation, as the annual profits derived from them to the Crown; becaufe, at moments when the veins of ore are moft abundant, they fuddenly difappear, and frequently deceive or difappoint the guefs of the moft experienced miners. About .twenty-three years ago, juft before the great war of 1756, they yielded fo little, that it became a queftion, when all the expences attending them were defrayed, whether the Emprefs Queen was a gainer or a lofer. But, precifely at that time* when me flood moft in need of pecuniary aid, the workmen difcovered veins fo rich and productive, that during fome years the gains were prodigious, amounting annually to feveral millions of florins. They have fmce COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 383* iince been gradually diminifhing, though by no means to fo reduced a degree as in 1756. At prefent they continue to be highly profitable ; and befides employing fuch numbers of people, bring in a con- fiderable revenue to Maria Therefa. The Baron de Seeberg, a Tranfylvanian gentle- man, who is one of the Intendants, accom- panied us through the mines, and furnifhed me with the moft fatisfactory information refpecting them. Directing my courfe to Cremn.itz, which is near twenty miles north, and at no very confiderable diftance from the foot of the Carpathian mountains, that divide Hungary and Poland, I arrived there in a few hours. The mines of Cremnitz produce only gold andfilver exclufively ; neither iron, lead, nor copper, being found in them. They fall far fhort of Schemnitz in magnitude, as well as in value and importance; only about eighteen hundred perfons being conftantly occupied in the various departments ; and of feven mines which are worked at this time, two VOL, i. c c alone 386 MEMOIRS OF THE alone produce any confiderable profit. I was let down into the mine of St. Matthias, one of the deepeft, fituate about a mile from the town. Having been placed on a fort of leathern feat, fattened to ah iron chain, in twelve minutes I found myfelf at the bottom ; during which time I had defcended eight hundred and feventy-ftve Englifh feet, I was afterwards drawn up in the fame manner. The fenfation is rather pleafmg than difagreeable, as the confcioufnefs of being thus fufpended over a dark abyfs, is accompanied with a conviction of the abfence of all real danger. I traverfed a confiderable part of the mine, fometimes walking, at others crawling on my hands and knees, or defcending from gallery to gallery, by means of ladders. The heat was more oppreffive than at Schemnitz ; but the paflages were dry, whereas in the former, water oozed or poured down in almoft every part of tjie mine. Here I had an opportunity of feeing the two fpecies of gold ore, the pale and the red, which lay fcattered COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. fcattered in heaps. The produce is hpw- ever, if poffible, dill more precarious thin at Schemnitz. Two years ago, after every expence defrayed, they yielded about eigh- teen thoufand pounds fterling ; laft year, only feven thoufand entered the Imperial treafury, free of dedu&ions. No certain calculations can be made on that head. It is near a hundred and twenty miles from Cremnitz to Prefburg, through a very beautiful and romantic, as well as populous part of Hungary. Inferior to Buda in population and extent, Prefburg is more compact, and the buildings are more mo- dern. On a very fteep hill, at the extre- mity of the city, overhanging the Danube, is built the Caflle, which forms the ordinary refidence of the Duke of Saxe Tefchen, Governor of the kingdom. The apart- ments command an extenfive view over the vaft plains of Hungary and Auftria : even Vienna may be defcried, at the diftance of near five and twenty miles. Below flows the river, divided into feveral channels, c c 2 and 3*8 MEMOIRS OF THE ' and eiiclofmg "ai number -of ' fmall iflands, , oain , covered with wb'od. > , In one of the, turrets of the Caftle, are kept the Crown and royal ornaments. So i - ITT r T - r jealous are the Hungarians or their prelerva- tion, that they cannot be feen by "any perfon. ,: . / , / tion of the nobility and clergy muft attend. < o . for the expreis mirpofe. ' No European na- i ' -r ,'- i ' t i tion. has mamrelted a more' tenacious and ; - n -n r 1 ',* . i. i 'i i innexiqle ipirit or independeiiGe. than the . T Hungarian. T\ one has made more defperate, thoucrh often mefFeiftual efforts, to maintain . . their politicarfreedom. This remark mufl : - ; neverthelefs be under flood of the nobility only: for the people at large are equally ' ftraneers. to the theory, and' to the practical ? riM ./n / . , ' -. J. benehts of liberty. It is by concemon. not i ' ' , -' i- ' 11 ' i t. - only to the rights or the nobles, but to their j. i T i i A/r . prejudices and national cuitoms, that Maria . Therefa, during more. tnanfe ven and thirty ' ; -" j i -'-n years, has maintained her influence over t TT ' > I " J ' them. In the Hungarians, when driven from COJLJRT Oi J BERLIN, CtC. .389 from Vicuna at the commencement of her reign, f]>e found the fureft and beft fuppoit of her tottering crowns. I could not furvey *-> j the great hall of the Caftle of Freiburg, -with- out recollecting that it was the fcene where the Nobles unanimoufly drew their fabres, exclaiming, " Our lives and our. blood for " your Majefty !" Neither ancient nor modern Hiftory prefents any event more affecting, . or productive of more important confequences. In my way to Vienna, about three leagues from Prefburg, I viewed the remains of the Roman colony of Carnuntum, con- ftructed.on the fouthern bank of the Da- nube, in order to reprefs the inroads of the i Quadi and Marcomanni. Mounds of earth, and one very decayed gateway of Roman workmanfhip, mark the fpot. I pafled over the ground upon which, flood , the ij " . :: - camp of Cara Muftapha, in 1683, when he befieged Vicuna. It covered more than ~ two leagues in extent, and tradition points out the precife place where the Vizier's tent l c c 3 w"as 39 MEMOIRS Of was erected. His ignorance, temerity, and avarice, faved the Auftrian capital, by al- lowing John Sobiefki time to come to its relief. The political afpecl: of affairs is not ma- terially changed fmce my departure from this city ; and war ftill impends, though it is not actually begun. The great Auftrian army is aiTembled in Bohemia ; and the Emperor, who remains at Prague, is occu- pied in accelerating its motions. Frederic is in Silefia, at the head of his forces, ac- companied by his two nephews, the Prince Royal, and the Hereditary Prince of Brunf- wic. The Eledlor Palatine continues to preferve a pacific and inglorious neutrality, while Saxony is armed and zealous in the Prufilan caufe. It is pretended that ne- gotiations are again opened between Jo- feph and the King, for adjufting the points in conteft. But, if fuch be the fadt, we are here in total ignorance of their nature, progrefs, or probable refult. The Emprefs Queen is already gone to the palace of Schon- COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 39 1 Schonbrun, where (he may indulge her emotions, undifturbed. Vienna itfelf has loft much of its gaiety, from the abfence of fo many officers employed on fervice. In a few days I mail probably fet out for Poland ; all means of paffing through Bohemia being fufpended by the circum- ftances of the prefent crifis." c c 4 MEMOIRS OF THE LETTER XVII. 'Journey to Cracow. Afpccl of that City. Palaces. Ruinous Condition of Cracow. Polijh Drefs. Marriage Fejlivities. State of Poland. Enterprise of ' Choi/y, and his Defence of the Caftle of Cracow. Mines ofVielicza. CRACOW, June 3d, 1778. A FTER a flay of near fix months at ** Vienna, I left it on the 24th of May, and reached Olmutz the following evening. That city, the capital of Moravia, prefented an interefting and animated fcene, full of troops, and prepared againft invafion. Every precaution has been taken for its fecurity, in cafe of an attack. All the con- vents are converted into magazines or bar- racks ; the univerlity is removed to Brinn, and the ordinary garrifon is confiderably augmented. I walked round the place, as it is not permitted to mount the ramparts ; and I am not furprized at the long refift- ancc COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 393 ance which it made, or at the final repulfe that Frederic experienced before it, when he befieged Olmutz in 1758, juft twenty years ago. The river Morau, as well as feveral other dreams that unite 1 near the walls, form a continued morafs round the town, which renders all regular advances difficult, flow, and hazardous. Prince Albert of Saxony and Marfhal Haddick, who have under their command a numerous army, will probably protect it againft any fimilar attempt during the prefent fummer. Continuing my journey through Auftrian Silefia, I arrived at Tefchen, a miferable town ; whence I had only eight leagues to Billitz, which, previous to the late parti- tion of Poland, formed the limit of the Emprefs Queen's dominions. The country, rich, fertile, and populous, formed a ftriking contraft to the to\\ r ns, in which every fpecies of poverty and wretchednefs feemed to re- fide. I crofled, beyond Tefchen, the river Viftula, there a mallow torrent, fcarcely twelve miles from its fource in the Carpa- 4 thian 394 MEMOIRS OF TttE thian mountains ; and after being detained for feveral hours at Billitz, I entered the Im- , penal Poland. Before the partition of 1772, the Palatinate of Cracow extended to the frontier of Auftrian Silefia; but, fmce that memorable event, Maria Therefa's domi- nions are puihed to the edge of the Viftula, and to the fuburbs of Craeow itfelf. I had flattered myfelf with reaching that city, the evening of the fame day on which I left Billitz, the diftance between the two places being only fixty-fix miles; but, about two leagues from Cracow, the horfes having tired, we were obliged to pafs the night in a wood. A peafant, after fome hours, relieved us from our embarraiTment, and I arrived early next morning, the 3Oth of May, on the bank of the "Viftula, oppo- fite to Cracow. Crofling the river over a loofe floating raft, as it might more pro- perly be termed than a bridge ; after a fatiguing journey from Olmutz, I gladly found myfelf in a tolerable houfe, kept by a Frenchman, on the great fquare of the COURT OF BERLIN, CtC. 395 the antient capital of this difmembered kingdom. Cracow cannot be vifited by a ftranger, without exciting, at every ftep, emotions of mingled companion and indignation: pity, on contemplating the fallen ftate of a city once flouriming, populous, and cele- brated ; now ruinous and deferted : indi tvV ., ; "*' ^ ' '^V v^^-v f ^ ^ K Printed by A. Strnla/ty .Pritften-Stifft, Lcutttn. (