6285 11 I '^ QRR €riuifls ANNA BISHOP MEXICO 1849. PHILADELPHIA: PUBLISHED BY CHARLES DEAL. AND FOR SALE BY BOOKSELLEKS QENEKALLY. 8 621 2 II Entered, according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1852, by CHARLES DEAL, in the Clei-k's Office of the District Court of the United States, for the Eastern District of Pennsj-lvania. i I CONTENTS THE VOYAGE . . . .* 13 Anna and her Party leave Havana for the City of Mexico — The English Steamer "Clyde" — Its indiflFerent Accommodations — A jolly Gentleman of the Old School — Passengers of all kinds — A nervous Bugle-player — Serenade at Sea — Mrs. Levert of Mobile. VERACRUZ 24 Its fine Port and Scenery — The Vomito — Sauve qui pent — Only ONE three-weekly Diligencia to the Metropolis and the Interior — Shubert's "Ave Maria" — Bochsa's Harp-case — Deplorable Superstition of the People — A Nose off; cannot be mended — Fo7idas — Mosquitoes on the quivive — A Waiter with a Calf 's- head — Haul Sauteme and Pale Cognac — A frightened Music- seller — Dilettanti Vultures — Arrieros — The Chinese Shawl — Storm — The Diligencia's Escort — Bonne etoile of Anna, &c. — Iln route for Mexico. THE CITY OF MEXICO. . . . 41 Eight thousand feet above the Sea — Beautiful Climate — Great Excitement at the arrival of Anna, who is visited by the Minis- (V) VI CONTENTS. ters, Ambassadors, and the Aristocracy — Hotel du Bazaar — Great Difficulty in finding a Private Carriage not one hundred years old — No Coach-maker — Napoleon engaged as Coachman —Wealth of Mexican Churches — The words Quien Sabe ; some- times very convenient — The Paseo, the Hyde Park of Mexico — The Lasso — Costumes and Manners — Flirtations through Smoke — Tretty Brunettes StockingleW — Republican Lackeys making themselves very comfortable behind their Carriages — A New York Omnibus — La Alameda — The French Minister, M. Levas- seur^-A Murder. SHOPPING, REFLECTING, AND VISITING . 60 Every thing Foreign — Inconceivable Indolence of the Mexicans — Singular Application of the Verbs To Compose and To Woi-k — A Wealthy and Philanthropic Printer — The famous A la Dispo- sicion de listed — The Picture-dealer — Louis Napoleon and the little three-cornered Hat, &c. — French and German Legions — Constant Ringing of Bells. AN EVENING PARTY IN MEXICO . 71 Ladies' Toilettes — Mexican Punning— The "Doodles" — Amateur Singing — Dancing. ARRIVAL OF BAGGAGE, AND THE NATIONAL THEATRE, 77 Procession of Mules — General Commotion — El Teatre Xacional (once bearing the name of its fondateur, Santa Anna), a fine Building — Its Lessees, Managers, and Spanish Company — Bolero Dancers not good French Scholars — Speculation on Pit- cushions — Their twofold Use — A Parisian Anecdote — Mexican Chorus-singers somewhat satirical. CONTENTS. VU CONGRESS — THE REHEARSAL — THE CLAQUEUR . 86 The Republic in danger — Queen Anna reigns — Morning Row at the Theatre — Bochsa in a Fix — A smoking-hot Rehearsal — Chorusses, Men and Women, Supernumeraries, Scene-Shifters, Prompter, Orchestra, all enveloped in clouds of Smoke — The Medias — Triumph — Monsieur de la Claque, an important Theatrical Man. anna's DEBUT AT THE TEATRO NACIONAL . 101 Tickets at Auction — Terrific Rush at the Doors — Complete Suc- cess — Newspapers' Criticisms — The Judge of the Theatre — His great Power — His Tablespoons — His Fines on Chairs — More Dramatic Concerts — People half-crazed — The full Opera of Norma — Signor Zanini and his Stimulants — Shakspeare's Works spiritedly bound — Pasta and Malibran's Pots of Porter — Senorita Sucha Mosqueira — Lucia — Tersiani once .Jealous of Rubini's Success — Spanish Operetta. PUEBLA 123 A Musical City — The Puebla Italiana Compama — Anna and Bochsa go to see Norma incognito — A Hint to Musical Directors who use a Baton — Senorita Munos — Norma and Oroveso on very friendly terms with each other — Chorusses anxious not to lose the~Time — Enthusiastic Reception of Anna at El Teatro principal — Opinion of the Press — The famous Father Gi'ullo — Return to the CapitaL PREPARATIONS FOR TRAVEL INTO THE INTERIOR . 135 A Locomotive Hotel ffarni ; its Description — An Aniied Escort — A Meson — Don Luis Cortez — Napoleon again — Mexican Colours 1* Vlli CONTENTS. — Anna's six-barrelled Revolver and her bright Eyes — Ladrones not unlike Aldermen — Bochsa's Address to the Escort, 5 la Louis Philippe — He recommends the Diva Anna to their Courage. THE JOURNEY — FIRST DAY . . 152 Green Fields — Humble Cane and Mud Cottages — Guirlande of Salt Meat — Pigs without Hair — Pigs' Hands ! — Morceau d' en- semble — Rural Scene. CUANTILLAN, AND THENCE TO QUERETARO, 158 The Meson — A Lazy Mozo — Don Luis Cortez an Active Man — Suc- culent Dinner — Arrival of a Reverend Padre, with his House- hold — Soubrettes for Escort — The Padre made very Comfortable — Departure — St. Juan del Rio — A Dangerous Spot. QUERETARO 167 Good Quarters — The Jesuits against Anna — The Apothecaries in her favor — Theatre, a Cock-pit — A Tortillas Fonda at the Entrance of the Pit — Unmusical Sounds of the Fizzling of a Frying-pan — A Fast Prompter — Numerous Visiters at the Meson — Among them an English Family — Friendly Feelings among Artists — Anna wants to go Shopping — The Family Melon in Requisition — Friendly Feelings among Mules — Don Pepe Silva and his Crosses — Don Luis Cortez a Fashionable Laquais — Unheard of Sensation in the City — Twenty Spanish Comedies sent to Bochsa to read — A "Cell" wanted in the Orchestra — ■ Doctor Bustamente — The Gold and Silver Crown — Invitation to go to Ceilaya. CONTENTS. m AMUSEMENTS AT QUERETARO, AND DE- PARTURE THEREFROM 181 A sixth Concert in contemplation — Strong Opposition — Mozos waiting to be Dressed — A Hint to celebrated Tenori, who are anxious for a Tight Fit — Visit to the SeDora Berdusco — To the Prefect of the City — To the Fashionable Apothecary — Soap, a Current Money — The Convent of San Francisco — Santa Maria eclipsed by Anna — Don Luis Cortez Dame d'Atours — Francisca, the Lady's Maid, in the Shade — The two Clerks of the Dili- gencia — Mexican Ladrones perfect Gentlemen — Guns loaded with Onions and Frijoles — The Queretaro Police — The Plaza — Bochsa in a Bardic Fit — He returns Home soapless — Contempt of Don Pepe and his Men for the Police Escort — The chief Police-man a Hero in Green Spectacles. CEILAJA — VALLE DE SANTIAGO . 197 Concerts to take place in the Custom-IIouse Depot — Mexican Towns all built on the same Pattern — National Costumes — Visit of the Fire-King — A Musical Amateur in the Shape of a nice little Pony. GETTING UP THE CONCERTS . . 204 Committees of Gentlemen — The Philharmonic full Band — Bochsa's Secretary well informed in the Science of Hippocrates — His Way of Settling Newspapers' and Printers' Bills — He is a great Favorite with Apothecaries — Anna's Performances going off admirably well — Another Invitation from the "Dilettanti" of Valle de Santiago — The Party leaves Ceilaya — El Giiaje — False Alarm — Honors rendered to Anna — The Valle quite a X CONTENTS. civilized Place — Anna a Pet Madonna — Curious Rooms for a Concert. LEON 219 Visit to the Banker — Call in at the best Apothecary Store — Latin Compliments — Cock-fighting Arena — School on the Lancasterian and Primitive System — The Arena engaged — Singular Clauses in the Contract — Concert Preparations — Odd kind of Money received by Bochsa — The Fire-King again — His Offer to Anna of an Extra Escort — Don Pepe displeased; Money makes all right — The Foreigner and the Minister of Finance — Circus Men and Horses — A Yankee Chief — His Reception by Don Pepe Silva and Don Luis Cortez — American Jokes — Don Pepe in a Rage — The Yankee and his Troupe leave — Lagos — Aqua del Obispo — San Juan de los Lagos — Description of its annual Fair — Incidents — Busy Scenes — The Secretary oflF to Guada- lajara. GUADALAJARA . . . . 249 San Pedro — The Avenue — The Paseo — The Meson — The cunning Medico- Seer etario Physician of the Lady Proprietor of the The- atre, -who is ill — The Theatre not a Cock-pLt — Removal of Anna to a spacious Palazii — Seflor Ocampo — Anna delighted with Guadalajara — Her Rambles in the City — El Marcato de San Augustin — Factory of Rebosos — Monsieur and Madame Duprat • — Governor Escorza — General-Commandant Queresne — Colonel Gay and his Lady — First Concert, the 22d November — Immense Crowd — Don Louis Cortez the Sleeping Gennaro — He sleeps too long — A Scene from Morusa — Druids with Mexican Colours, Lances, Pistols, and Swords — Bochsa hon-ified — Anna decides remaining some time at Guadalajara — Grand Spectacle of a CONTENTS. Religious Procession — Accident to a She-Doll! — A Good Idea — Romantic Conversation — Duenas superseded by Cigaritos — Los Torros — Partiality of Women to Bull-fighting. HOW ANNA LEARNED TO SING IN MEXICAN . 267 Itinerant Mexican Musicians — Bochsa gives them a Dance with hi§ " Old Lady " — Don Marcos a Singer — Pasadita — Anna as a Muchacho — Evening Party of the Tiers Etat — The Singing Laundresses — La Catatumba — Anna as a Muchacho. THE CHOLERA — DEPARTURE FROM GUADALAJARA . 273 Brilliant Career of Anna stopped by the Approach of the dreadful Disease — Visit of the Governor — Don Pepe Silva and Don Marcos absconded — The Governor replaces them — Hasty De- parture of Anna and Party — The Secretario left behind to wind up Affairs — San Pedro again — Villages deserted — The Crosses on the Walls — Mexican Respect to the Dead — The Aim to the Orphan — Alonzo the African taken ill — Dangerous Symptoms — Goodness of Heart of Anna — Arrival at San Juan de los Lagos — Alonzo Dies of Cholera — General Grief — Promised Gratifi- cation to Alvarado — "Dilettanti Robbers" — Concert gratis — The Voyage resumed — Alfred, the Secretary, rejoins the Party at Leon — Off again to arrange Matters at Guanajato. GUANAJATO 292 The Apothecaries again — Brilliant Doings — Picturesque Scenery — Theatre illuminated. XU CONTENTS. THE CAPITAL ONCE MORE . . 296 V. Messrs. Laurents' elegant Private House — Dismissal of the Tra- velling Equipage — Don Pepe found — Hint to Foreigners not to go to Law against a Mexican — Expected Revolution — line Bagatelle Mexicaine — Napoleon gone to California — Anna's En- gagement at the Teatro Nacional — Great Success — The Govern- ment Salaries to Employees not paid — Judith — Don Juan Miguel de Lozado, a Poet — The Secretary an "Admirable Crichton " of a Man — Verdi's Music — A Black Orchestra Leader — Domestic Affliction — News of Anna's Mother's Death — Seclusion — Preparations to leave the Country. "LE COUP DE PISTOLET" . . 305 A VISIT TO THE PRESIDENT OP THE REPUBLIC . 313 The Hymne Nacionale — A Palace in Darkness — A Model of Eco- nomy — Final Departure for the United States — Universal Regret at Anna and Bochs^'s leaving Mexico — Vera Cruz for the Last Time — The Artists Embark for Mobile in the English Steamer "Severn" — A Fine Boat. THE YOTAGE. It was not the intention of tlie ep-en-voiced Anna, when, accompanied by the eccentric Bochsa, she left Charleston, in April, 1849, to proceed as far as Mexico ; but merely to pay a short visit to the beautiful and most musical city of Havana. Being there informed, however, that a trip of fifty- five hours would bring them thence to the port of Yera Cruz, and three days more to the city of Mexico, by diligencicbs^ Anna exclaimed, with that thirst for new climes, and independent spirit of curiosity which travelling rather augments than * A line of diligencias was established by an American a few years ago, running from Vera Cruz to the capital of Mexico, with extension into the interior of the Republic, as far as Guadalajara. These ponderous vehicles, holding nine inside, and several on top, are made by a coachmaker of Troy, (N. Y.,) and resemble the coaches used in the United States. — Ed. 14: ANITA IN MnsXICO. satisfies in lier sex, '-''Allons ! let us pass the sum- mer with the descendants of the gi-eat Monte- zuma!" and of course, the portly Bochsa, albeit with so high and uncomfortable a degree of tem- perature in perspective, was obliged to submit. The project, however, was not without its dangers and excessive fatigues, to say nothing of numerous Ladrones^ or highway robbers, who seem yet .to form one of the national features of that extraordi- nary country, in addition to the unwholesomeness of the city of Yera Cruz at that particular season.* The rough, jostling ups and downs of coach-travel- ling, too, though the 'best of bad conveyances on the route, were by no means consistent with the lady Anna's ideas of luxury, or Bochsa's dignity ; still, while she is pm-ely an elegante in her notions. * This unfortunate town, once one of the richest in the world, is infested every year, from June to the end of Sep- tember, by most fatal epidemic diseases, which render a so- journ there, at that period, even of a few hours, extremely dangerous both for Mexicans and foreigners. The majority of its inhabitants leave it in summer, for the delightful city of Jalapa, 4000 feet above the level of the sea, and 70 miles distant from Vera Cruz. — Ed. ANNA m MEXICO. 15 she lacks certainly no strength of nerve, or her perilous wanderings over the world in company with her most devoted of cavaliers, would long since have come to a conclusion. She was, there- fore, not to be deterred from her intention; and, after several brilliant Dramatic Concerts at the Tlieatre Tacon (one of the largest and most superb in the world,) where the lady Anna gained new laurels, and a startling amount of old Spanish doubloons, the wonder-exciting artists left the aris- tocratic Cuba for Mexico, on the first of June, laden with the most satisfactory letters of credit on the bankers at the several points of their des- tination, taking passage in the English Steamer " Clyde," accompanied by a secretary. Signer Yaltellina, (an Italian singer, engaged by Bochsa to assist at the performances,) and numerous other appendages and attendants. When on board, Anna, to her profound astonish- ment, learned that her contemplated tri^ might possibly be accomplished in about eight or nine days, instead of a trifle over tioo as she had been led to expect. Tliis was pleasant! especially to Bochsa, who despLses being taken in, and gave 2 16 ANNA IN MEXICO. utterance to some dry, red-faced expression of liis disgust which has never been recorded. They were not, however, altogether at a loss for amuse- ment, in the way of Germans, who, with long beards and veiy curious hats d la Freisehutz^ and the whole bound for San Francisco, sang every evening on deck, Weber's hunting choi-us, as a matter of course, getting very much over-excited as each note brought them a measure nearer to la Divina Esjperaiiza ! Divers other passengers, of which there were crowds, likewise grew to be highly interesting. French bankers and mer- chants, driven away from France by the revolu- tion of '48, were on their way to Mexico, Cali- fornia, anywhere ! to repair their shattered for- tunes ; fidgetty Americans pacing smartly the deck with immense-heeled boots, looking out sharp for Mobile, long before they had lost sight of the Moro ;* New-CTrleansites, extremely concerned about getting home to ascertain the extent of the inundations ; Mexican families and deputies return- ing from a tour through Europe, and perfectly * A stupendous Cuban fortress. — Ed. ANNA m MEXICO. 17 satisfied that their own country was, after all, " jEI pa/radiso sul la tiert'a /" To say that the lady Anna found the Clyde differ- ing considerably from the well-appointed steamer of Cunard's line, and the neat Havana boat Isabel, in point of elegance will sm'prise nobody. The berths wanted proper ventilation; and the "ladies' Sa- loon''' being a kind of hen-coop where gentlemen — even hushands — were not allowed to enter, Bochsa was miserable. ]^o wonder. To look at ladies through a dirty glass door for nine days, as at so many dusty manaquins in a milliner shop- window ! Then the meals were intolerable ; although an- nounced in a very pompous, startling manner by a bugle blowing, or rather blasting, a popular English air. The performer, one of the crew, was very passable so far as he went ; but, for some reason incomprehensible to Bochsa, he would in- variably stick fast in the middle of the melody, and leave the termination to some future period. Then there was the mail officer, a stout and very jolly Englishman of the old school, dressed in a bright suit of white and *a fine Panama hat, and who, called " Commandant," was a flute 18 AJ^NA IN MEXICO. amateur, and seemed to be at the head of the musical department on board, having arranged, one evening, expressly for Anna's gratification, a pleasant serenade, composed of violins, cor- nets-a-piston, and an ophicleide! On the fom-th day out, the steamer arrived at the Mobile bar,' twenty miles from the American city. Leai-ning that the ship would stop here a day, Anna wrote a few lines of souvenir to one of her best and dearest American friends, the well- known and admired Mrs. L., of Mobile. Tliat emi- nently-talented lady, in whom was acknowledged that rare combination of worth which rendered her equally the most brilliant ornament of the grand tnonde and the perfection of a friend, wife, and mother, had the misfortune, as Anna learned by a hasty note from Dr. L., to lose two most interesting da*ighters. Finally, on the 9th of June, after dinner, the Clyde entered the port of the pestiferous Yera Cruz, and anchored between the town and the famous castle, or fortress, of San Juan de Ulloa, where, pending the busy interference of custom- AliTNA IN MEXICO. 19 house and police officers, Anna and Bochsa went on deck to stare at the city of death. The sight seemed to make Bochsa very uncomfortable, as a friend of his. Dr. G., had drily, and with a some- what lengthened countenance, observed to him, on his leaving Havana, " Adieu, dear Bochsa ! Fare- well! I am sorry to inform you that, above all others, you are exactly the man to die of the vo- 'inito. You will be just in time. June is precisely the month, my dear fellow; and the probability is, that, a few hours after your landing, you will be an unpleasant cadd/vre. I only grieve that I shall not be there to open your body!" The conse- quence was, that Bochsa's thoughts on the occasion of their arrival were widely at variance with those of Anna, who contemplated the scene before her with all her characteristic animation of spirit and zest for novelty. It was, in tnith, a lovely Sabbath evening of mellow sunset, and the soft flush of its fading crim- son light mantled the city. The little landing-pier {JEl Mold) was crowded with the people, gaily dressed, and looking with all manner of expres- sions towards the late arrival. It was not lon-T^ 20 ANKA IN MEXICO. before Bochsa began to feel easier. For, instead of the " clink of hammers closing coffins up," and deadly black j&ags waving heavily in the diseased air, there were borne upon the breath of most luxurious zephyrs, towards the listeners, the dulcet sounds of guitars and sweetly-chanting voices. Bochsa almost became cheerful ; and was endea- voring to disabuse himself of all disagreeable mis- givings, when Anna exclaimed, " What ! is this the desolate and doomed Yera Cruz?" Bochsa was instantly down again ! glared at her, but made no answer. He only seemed heartily to wish he was in the Irving House, or even at Anna's Palazio^ at Naples. Twilight was now fast stealing on, and the rush for small landing boats was tremendous. " Son- neur aux dames I " was out of the question, par- ticularly as everybody was desperately bent on leaving the city that very night, coute qui coute^ to escape the vomito ! There was only one diligencia to start, though horses, mules and Uteres^ were of * Litters, borne by two mules, containing two persons, and just wide enough to admit of thieir stretciiing out, side by- side, as in the Russian kibics. — Ed. ANim m MEXICO. 21 course to be put in immediate requisition; while many a donkey, with its respective SancTio Panza^ was bridled up, to bear him insanely from the pestilential atmosphere, l^ever was the memora- ble Waterloo ^^ sauve qid peuV more admirably illustrated than on this lively occasion. Bochsa was bewildered. He had sent his secre- tary on shore, at the first practicable opportunity, to secure places in the first diligencia^ and to inquire how on earth the interminable luggage of Madam Anna could be disposed of! The answer returned, after a seemingly eternal suspense, was, that there was not the shadow of a chance for a place in the diligencia j and further, that the num- ber of seats and vastness of room required for Madam Anna, Bochsa and company, could not possibly be obtained before Saturday, the 16th, the diligencias leaving for the city of Mexico only three times a week.* Bochsa was in despair ! for, * The want of an every-day diligencia, on account of the mails by the English steamers, having been severely felt by travellers and merchants resident at the city of Mexico, a line has now been established. A few of the first foreign bankers and merchants of the capital keep, in their own regular pay, 22 ANNA IN MEXICO. SO fearful were the Mexican passengers at tlie idea of stopping at Vera Cruz over night, they had actually written from Europe, in advance, to secure not only all the vehicular necessities, but every possible motive power, in the shape of horse, mule, or otherwise, that the deserted city could afford. So that Anna and Bochsa, as the night approached, determined to remain on board imtil the morrow, when they supposed they might effect a landing with more comfort to themselves and security to the luggage. Before retiring to her berth, the silver-voiced warbler, in order to cheer up her most disconsolate cavalier, lavished her rich notes upon the evening air, such as she alone can utter, in the heavenly "Ave Maria" of Schubert, and Handel's "Holy, holy Lord." Would I had been there ! — and such a scene to be enchanted in by such a spell of music ! Bold ^before them the great moimtain Ori- a private estafette who, leaving Vera Cruz on horseback im- mediately after the arrival of the English mails, bears onward their correspondence with great despatch — the distance being about three hundred miles, which he accomplishes in thirty hours. — Ed. m V, ■■■<^-, ANNA EST MEXICO. 23 zava rose, its snow-crowned summit radiant in the soft, clear splendor of the moonlight, sleeping, like a monster that had crouched himself in awe be- neath the sacred, mighty universe of stars ; while from the fortress boomed, at intervals, the deep mock-thunder of its cannon. Around them, innu- merable pleasure-barges glided in gentle silence over the glittering bosom of the wave, nearing, as it were insensibly, the spot whence poured that fountain of sweet sounds ; and the crew stole softly on deck, and bared their heads in abject reverence of the being in whose voice there dwelt such magic tones — a charm that ravishes the heart, I know not how, and drowns the soul in such obli- vion of self, of all things save its angel harmony. And so the first hours of the night passed on. VERA CRUZ. Early on Monday, the 10th, Anna, Bochsa, Secretary and company were safely landed, though not without some anticipation of fuss, on the part of Bochsa, at the Custom-house, owing to the infinite retinue of trunks, portmanteaux, band- boxes and bundles which had always made up the eternal accompaniment to the Prima Donna. There was, in particular, a certain casket of jewels which, from its extent, Bochsa had every reason to believe would be seized, inasmuch as it would, no doubt, lead the officers to suspect that he was about establishing a vast jeweller's shop in the city of Mexico. It so chanced, however, that, through the politeness of the employees^ and the foresighted complaisance of Anna's banker, all the effects, together with Bochsa and secretary, passed free and untouched ; albeit Bochsa was not ANNA IN MEXICO. 25 a little startled at tlie circumstance of the crowd mistaking his huge black harp-case for Ms coffin / while other by-standers modified the idea by imagining it only contained the remains of Santa Anna, which conjecture was disputed by a third party, who pronounced it to be full of muskets for the expected revolution ! Finally, an old woman, glaring great rebuke at every body, crossed herself with profound devotion, and em- bracing the case, mysteriously observed that she was perfectly satisfied it contained the new " Se- nora de los Eemedios ! " * fiu'ther adding that a new one was much wanted from Rome, as she had heard that the old one now in the city of Mexico had seen so much service that one of her eyes was out, and a part of her nose ! f This last assurance, in accordance with the barbarous * " Our Lady of Remedies" — a wax doll, the origin whereof has heen traced back as far as the time of Cortez. It is still held in great veneration at Mexico. — Ed f This is a melancholy fact; and the priests assert that every means has been tried to restore the lady's nose — but in vain ! Even putty seems to have failed to produce the desired effect. — Ed. 26 ANNA IN MEXICO. superstition which obtains throughout the whole Mexican nation, was the most approved, especi- ally by the Lejperos^ or Lazaroni. The result was, that a procession was immediately formed to ac- company the object of their awe, when they were singularly surprised at seeing the Madonna caught up and borne bodily into the Gran Socie- dad Hotel, to make several nights of it ! The" Hotel referred to, which had been re- commended to Anna in the most glowing and flourishing terms, was found to be particularly filthy and steeped in a most unhappy combina- tion of odors. Mosquitoes and small flat vermin, known to be no strangers to beds, were on the sharp qui vi/ve for anything fresh ; and in the bed-rooms, between the rude stones that paved the floor, grass was observed to be in quite a flourishing condition ; while the' light came only in, like any other stranger, at the door, in de- fault of anything like a window to admit it. In short, the whole arrangement was so like a dun- geon, that Bochsa and his secretary, who spoke Spanish, went out in their unutterable astonish- ment to look after lodo;ino;s ! After a vain search AXNA IN MEXICO. 27 of some hours tliey pitclied upon La Fonda Ita- liana (Italian Restaui'ant,) kept bj a half-and-half Mexican Italian. Bochsa perceived at once that the tavern was comfortless ; but it was quiet and airy, with windows to the bed-rooms, and further that the said windows opened on the street. So, thither Anna and retinue were finally con- ducted and installed. In the course of Bochsa's rambles about town, it were easy to imagine the keen sense of horror that seized him on observing that the water that flowed in the gutters was of a rich green^ exhalmg a de- cidedly putrescent effluvia ; and that the sole occu- pants of the streets, balconies, and tops of houses, were enormous vultures ! — which caused him fre- quently to pause and stare around him, as if un- able to say whether it was best to proceed any further. The utter impossibility of quitting the place seemed to haunt him. He had been in- formed, however, that good haut Sauterne and pale Cognac mixed with soda water, and the whole iced, were excellent preservatives against the dis- ease, and was fortunate enough to obtain a fair supply of these commodities, which he did with 3 28 ANNA m MEXICO. energetic promptness. But then the dishes served up by the Italiano-Mexicano Marmiton, were so full of garlic, onions and red-hot Chili pepper, that they kept the palate in one constant state of blis- ter, and incapable of tasting anything else for a month. On the first day, at dinner, the mozo (waiter) perceiving that Anna had not regaled herself with a certain dish of calf's head, which he seemed to think very highly of, handed it to her, expatiating vastly on its merits of garlic; while, in endeavor- ing to make her comprehend the fiill force of its natm'e, he repeatedly touched his own forehead, with a leer, saying, " Cabeza de ternera, linda senorita, cabeza de ternera!" (Calf's head, pretty senorita^ calf's head ! ") which striking her as being a capital joke, to say the least, she was persuaded to try his calf s head, and see^ if shB could not taste, what it was made of. Anna had, of course, very few visitors, during her stay at Yera Cruz, not being partial to the society of vultures. Still she took various strolls out with Bochsa; and, on one of these occasions, entering a book-store, enquired of an old man who ANNA IX MEXICO. 29 sat behind the counter, looking sad and yellow, if a piano-forte could possibly be hired for a few days. At this question, put in very nice Caste- llano,* the man darted up from his chair and seemed thunderstruck ! " Que dice usted, senora, tengo necesita por un piano ! " To satisfy him that she did want a piano, Anna repeated her ques- tion. " Un Piano!" again ejaculated the astounded man. " Un Piano ! Cuerpo de Cristo ! Santa Maria purissima!" Whereupon, completely hor- rified that she should want to amuse herself in the time of a pestilence, he gasped out that she must be mad, and, once more exclaiming " Un Piano ! Un Piano ! " rushed like a maniac into the back room, leaving Anna and Bochsa gaz- zing at each other as though they were stunned ! A few minutes elapsing, and nothing more being * The rare and happy facility which Madam Anna pos- sesses, of speaking a variety of languages, accounts for her proficiency in the Spanish, after but a few weeks' residence at Havana. I believe it is well known that her pronunciation of the Italian, English, French, Russian, German, Tartar, and others, are alike most perfect. — Ed. 30 ANNA m MEXICO. seen of the man, the artists left the shop, con- cluding that he was, beyond all question, out of his senses. Taking a turn in another direction, Anna was much struck with the sumptuous external ap- pearance of the bankers' and merchants' abodes, which were now all closed and seemingly un- inhabited. In a few instances only was a taste for gaudy colors displayed, to mar their other- wise griindiose ensemble. One house alone had yellow wdndow-sashes, sky-blue shutters, green verandahs, dark red bricks, brown _porte- cocTierey and the whole framed in with a glar- ing white border. In the halls well-stuffed arm- chairs could be seen, in which sundry function^ aries looked singularly comfortable and lazy. Yera Cruz cannot properly be said to be a Mexi- can city, as the continual intercourse of Europeans with the inhabitants has rendered it a sort of Hamburg, or modem Babel — inclusive of the vul- tm-es. By-the-way — about those vultures. Every- body has heard of the musical lizard, who inva- riably crept out from his hole whenever the great Mozart took his seat at the piano for the pur- ANNA m MEXICO- 31 pose of composition ; but it is to Anna's melo- dious and expressive song that the scientific natu- ralists of our times are indebted for the discovery that Yera Cruz vultures possess prominently the bump of music ; for every time, without exception, that she indulged in the exercise of her vocali- zation at the Fonda Italiaiia^ two very fine glos- sy black vultm*es would come sailing down from the upper air, and perch wonderingly upon the railing of her balcony, there remaining until she had finished, when they would look at each other with a kind of gratified nod, and go off again. It was, moreover, remarkable that when she prac- tised passages of difiicult execution, the sable dilettanti would seem to get utterly confounded and take their flight suddenly, long before it was through ; but whenever she sang cantabile and simple ballads, not a movement of a feather was visible, while they listened with the most pro- found attention to the end. The long and tediously wished for day of start- ing once more on their journey now approached, and Bochsa deemed it advisable to transmit the luggage to the city of Mexico by arrieros^ or 3* 32 AJSTNA m MEXICO. muleteers, as the unsafe state of the road render- ed it dangerous for travellers to take anything of value with them. But when Anna found that these same aii'ieros would be at least three weeks on their journey, she exclaimed, " Good gracious ! Think, Bochsa, of my being three weeks with' out a bracelet, or even a ring! and then, hero I must keep on this same chapeau and travel- line; suit all that time — for I am sure these Mexican milliners could never stitch a new dress decently !" " But the government — " said Bochsa, begin- ning to be nervous. " The government," continued the spirited cmi- tatrice, " ought to be ashamed of himself, for not seeing that the roads are safe ! He deserves well that I should make my debut in Mexico by singing Yankee Doodle. And I think I shall." Bochsa, though far from wishing that Anna should be obliged to have recourse to any such musical extremity, to bring the Mexican Presi- dent to his senses, was not the less surprised at his neglect in this particular, which seemed to amount to positive apathy, likely to result some AimA IN MEXICO. 33 day in trouble ; for Ladrones are now even more numerons and audacious than ever, and in place of the once terrific command, " hoca a hajo /" (to lie down with your face on the ground,) they invite you to this position with the same air and ease as though they solicited from you the /favor of a polka, or some other polite accomj)lishment which you can't think of refusing. Robberies of diligencias are always committed on the same spots, notwithstanding the station there of some half-a-dozen lank bipeds, ill-armed, with dirty linen bands on their shocking pointed hats, where- on is painted something about "public safety." When Bochsa saw this escolta^ as these rare body-guards are absurdly termed, he seemed struck by a sudden apparition of Falstaff's army of scare-crows, and seriously thought of engag- ing them for a spectacle. But Anna would n't hear of it. Great mutual courtesy, however, pre- vails among the muleteers, diligencia drivers and the Ladrones. The latter never attack the for- mer, and the former retm^n the compliment by minding their own business and never interfer- ing when the robbers are at their work on the 34: ANNA IN MEXICO. higliway. " Chacun a son metier''^ seems to be the adopted resolution by all parties. Yet, it were but justice to the arrieros to write them down a very honest sort of people, many of whom are wealthy and possess large numbers of mules. Besides, all transactions with them are through accredited mercantile houses who receive and de- liver all goods in their trust, and no comj)laints are ever made against their punctuality and good faith. Bochsa, therefore, was of the opinion that the luggage would be perfectly safe ; and on the evening of Saturday, the 16tb, Anna and com- pany left the Fonda Italiana in perfect health, and, it were almost needless to say, the highest possible spirits. They took with them nothing but what Bochsa considered was absolutely in- dispensable, two or three small carpet-bags and valises containing a few changes of linen (amongst which Anna contrived secretly to stow away sundry light dresses of mousseline,) having in their joint purse only sufficient money to pay travelling exjDenses and to offer a petite douceur to the Ladrones in case of a rencontre. Bochsa's secretary, who had travelled in Mexico before, AISTNA m MEXICO. 35 had informed him that, imless all the pas- sengers carried arms and were resolved on a spirited defence, it was not only ridiculous, but dangerous for two or three to exliibit any signs of resistance, as the Ladronea would select them out first and punish them for their audacity. There was consequently not a weapon of defence among the whole party. One thing puzzled Anna excessively. The day after her luggage had been forwarded, she had pur- chased a most costly and exceedingly rich white China shawl; and the question was, how it could be disposed of in order to reach in safety the City of Mexico? As for the encounter of Lad/rones^ they were not, in her opinion, half so much to be dreaded as the custom ofiicers, at the outer gate of Yera Cruz, through which they were to pass. For she had heard that the former were cdballeros^ or gentlemen ;* and, of course, courteous to ladies ; but as she had no faith in the gentlemanly propen- * It is generally admitted that Mexican banditti are people of rank, whose losses, through gambling, and want of means to restore them sufficiently for a fashionable life, urge them finally to highway robbery. — Ed. 36 ANNA IN MEXICO. sities of the latter, as they were not yet highway- men, she began to tremble for the fate of her luxu- rious shawl. Bochsa very obligingly offered to whisp it about his waist, as a sash, under his pale- tot, observing that the difference of half a yard, or so, in his circumference, would not probably be no- ticed. "Whereupon Bochsa's Secretary, a dry, thin old man, and a very ludicrous contrast to the inaestro, insisted upon wrapping Mmself up in it, in some mysterious manner which he did not di- vulge; at which the ca/ntatrice decided at once to put it on, underneath the shawl she wore, trusting in her 'bonne etoile, resolving that if they took the commodity aftef so much fuss about it, they must take her along with it — that was all ! As the gloom of evening approached, the weath- er, which had long worn a menacing aspect, had now grown into a raging storm, swollen with lash- ing rains, and tremendous sweeping gusts. ITot a carriage was to be obtained to take Anna to the office of the diligencia, and only one umbrella to shelter the entire company. They arrived, there- fore, at their destination, drenched ; and were box- ed up, on the instant, in the ponderous and smoth- ANNA IN MEXICO. 3T ering veliicle, with three more, in a eimilar state of smoking steam; while the storm, increasing with- out, sent deluges pouring in around the fluttering leather curtains of the diligenoia. But all this flood of inconveniences could not distract Anna's mind, who still trembled, in her woman's nature, for the safety of her China shawl. Keaching the dreaded gate of Vera Cruz, she look- ed anxiously out through the rain-drizzled glass door, and plainly saw the officer approaching it with a lantern ! Two or three seconds would de- cide the destiny of that shawl, which destiny hung solely upon the frail dazzle of a ray of light ! — and the door was pulled open. The lantern was thrust in, followed closely by the officer's eyes. Anna, Bochsa, and Secretary, sat like statues. The eyes were making distinct observations upon her person, were drawn back — but only for an instant — and then returned to her, as though they had had a sud- den thought. The word "Senorita," was already addressed to her, when the lantern was promptly extinguished by a whirling gust of wind, followed by a loud crash of thunder, slamming the door to, and the officer was seen no more. Drive on, was now 86212 38 ANNA m MEXICO. the word, the gate was cleared, the shawl safe, and Anna, Bochsa, and Secretary triumphant. " Well, friend Bochsa," said Anna, laughing most musically, " what do you tjiink of my reign- ing star ?" " Your rain and thunder, you mean !" exclaim- ed poor Bochsa, imconscious of the pun, and straining every sinew to hold down the leather cur- tain against the wind. " Bah !" In fact, this main- ly constituted Bochsa's physical and intellectual oc- cupation long after they were joined by the escort, a few yards beyond the gate ; while Anna was in- tensely amused at the most miserable and forlorn appearance of the said escort, whose services as guards she considerably doubted, as their heads and shoulders were completely buried in a kind of blanket.* The road now, for some miles, bordered upon the sea ; and even the howling of the winds was drown- ed in the din of the dashing surges upon the shore ; * " Serape,^'' or Mexican mantle, which much resembles a hlanket. They are usually worn as shown in the picture of Anna Bishop, in the character of a Mexican boy. — Ed. ANNA IN IMEXIOO. 39 wave mounting upon wave and billow upon billow, till the huge dark masses rose above the top of tbe diligencia^ and seemed moving towards it witli an overwhelming force, till, reaching their bounds, they broke, and burst, and boiled, and, roaring, spread away into the deep again, beneath the tum- bling body of their followers — and the travellers sped on.* At the Ranclio^ where the first relay of horses awaited them, the sound of castanets and mando- lines struck, somewhat cheerfully uj)oii their ears ; and, by the dim glimmer of a few rushlights, in a small snug parlor, men and women were distinctly discernible, dancing the l)olero. Tliis was an agree- able change in the tune, from the blustering wind- instrumentation of the elements, which had almost blown them there ; and the rain being in a measure abated, Anna and her unsuspecting maestro^ were about to alight and make an incursion into the room where these merry times were going on. This pur- pose, however, they did not eventually effect ; being * The Mexican horses are famed for their surprising velo- city, and will hear comparison with the fleetest of the Cossacks' in Russia. — Ed. 4 40 ANNA IN MEXICO. informed that the players and dancers were frequently robbers, or connected with that unpleasant class of people, and resorted to that amusement to attract the attention of travellers, profiting by their listening presence to ascertain if they were armed, had money or jewels with them, or were accompanied by any valuable luggage. Anna and Bochsa kept their seats ! — the cantatrice observing that she should, by no means, recommend her old friend and huffo, Debegnis, to come to that country with his famous song '■^J'ai de Vargent^'' as the Ladrones v^ould doubtless take him at his word, and lighten him of its burden, besides conceiving a fancy for his Fanatico Robe de Chamhre ! As a counterbalance to their disappointed desires, delicious cups of chocolate were now handed into them, and being comfortably dis- posed of, fresh and spirited horses bore them once more upon their route, in the most grateful style. The travelling route from Yera Cruz to Mexico has been so frequently described, the grand sublim- ity of its scenery so much extolled, and the re- markable laziness of the people so justly spoken of ANNA IN IIEXICO. 41 with disgust, that, to dwell upon these features fur- ther were needless. In the two principal cities, on the way, Jalapa and Puebla^ Anna being recognised as the world- famed vocalist, already announced as such by the Mexican press, every mark of attention and defer- ence was paid to her, and exquisite hoicquets of the rarest flowers were flooded in uj)on her by the gentry who crowded the hotels to welcome her. Having, moreover, indulged to some extent in pulque^^ and toHillas^^ and dishes oi frijoles^X ^^^ the smoking of numerous cigaritos^ Anna and her suite reached, with a certain sense of satisfaction, the city of Mexico on Wednesday, the 20th of June, without even the excitement of a single acci- dent, or rencontre with the Cdballeros. And, though she expressed herself somewhat vexed, that * Pulque — a common acid beverage among the Mexicans, extracted every seven years from the Aloe-tree^ and having the whiteness of milk. — Ed. t Tortillas — a sort of pancake, made of Indian meal, and one of the principal articles of nourishment among the lower classes. — Ed. X Frijoles — large black beans — the maccaroni of the Mexi- cans. — Ed. 42 ANNA IN MEXICO. her ideas should have been bent upon romance and adventure and pistols and jack-boots, without being carried out or realized in some particular, Bochsa was of opinion that his spirited pupil was by far too enthusiastic on the point, inasmuch as it would have materially endangered the well-known rotun- dity of his form, if brought to obey the uncomfor- table summons of " hoca a hajo /" I agree with Bochsa. THE CITY OF MEXICO. After remaining at the oiSce of the diUgenGia a time sufficient only for the necessary preparation of a fine suite of apartments at the Hotel du Bazaar^ the artists were therein installed, with all the pomp and circumstance of " distinguished arrivals." They found the house spacious and commodious, situated in la ccdle del Esj^iritu Santo ^ or, " Holy Ghost Street," (one of the most fashionable parts of the city) and elegantly furnished in the French style. It is established on the plan of the Parisian hotels garnis^ meals being charged separately, and served in the rooms according to the demand of the tenant. The proprietor, Mr. Compagnon, a French upholsterer, has displayed the best taste of his art in its arrangement, as well as in that of a splended cafe adjoining, and entrusted the whole to the administration of Mr. J. Arago, a gentleman 4* 44 Al^NA IN MEXICO. of exceeding civility, and brother to the celebrated French Astronomer. Anna's biography, taken from the Havana jour- nals, with copious records of her European success having preceded her in the principal journals of Mexico, every body, it seems, was on the alert ; for the great metropolis is notably as much given to gossip and ha/vardage as any spinster country village need be. So that Anna and Bochsa had scarce time to rest in their princely lodgings, when they were inundated with cartes de visites, and multitudes standing in the street, and staring up at the balcony. Among her first visitors were the proprietors and editors of the principal periodicos of Mexico, the English and French ministers and their attaches^ Count Cortina, Mr. Payno the dis- tinguished wi'iter, Senor Don Jesu Canedo,* and numerous others of renown. > r * Don Jesu Canedo — one of the most remarkable and ac- complished statesmen of Mexico, who had been Minister to several foreign courts. Since the occasion referred to above, the unfortunate man was murdered in his bed-room. The assas- sin, having strangled him, inflicted on his body thirty-two stabs with a table-knife, and walked quietly out into the streets, AJSTNA m MEXICO. " 45 " And now," observed Anna to Boclisa, " allow me to recall to you what a perfect rage you were in at Vera Cruz, because I had slyly tucked away some dresses in one of your valises ! "What should I have done without them, maestro mio, as an ob- ject of public curiosity — I should like to know ? Considering, too, that we have two weeks more to wait for our luggage ! " '■'•^ Quien sabeP'' * drily responded Bochsa, and turned to look after some invisible nothing in a corner. wearing upon his shoulders the manteau of the dead old man. This murder, perpetrated in the Sociedad Hotels about 7 o'clock in the evening, was doubtless prompted by political views, as neither money, jewels, nor even the diamond pin attached to the cravat that served to strangle Canedo were missing. It was believed by some that the Government was privy and party to it — by others, that it was a vengeance on the part of the priests, who were aware of Canedo's liberal principles. Whatever was the cause, neither the city authorities nor the police troubled themselves to discover the murderer 5 and, after a few hours of excitement, the general sensation subsided, and the country had forgotten one of its best friends and defenders, —Ed. * ^^iQuien sabe?'''' — "Who knows?" — a reply very com- mon with Mexicans, especially when, as in the case of Bochsa, they don't know precisely what else to say. — Ed. 46 ANNA IN MEXICO. Anna, with lier usual gladness of spirit was prepared, as well as desirous, of being charmed with Mexico and all that therein held a being. This is not surprising, when she saw its capital, towering (though, like another Venice, on mar- shy soil,) full 8000 feet above the level of the sea, crowned with its hundred churches and storied convents and gorgeous palaces, and chequered with its wide, straight streets, all which, together with its grandeur of surrounding landscape, serv- ed in turn to bring unto her mind the almost fabulous time of Montezuma, and the chivalrous deeds of the romanesgue and cunning Hernando Cortes. Her previous travels, however, naturally caused her judgment to be based on compari- son ; and, really, she could not help observing that the vast wealth and innumerable wonders of Eome, Yenice, Naples, St. Petersbm-g and Moscow — cities which, like Mexico, were under the domination of catholic priesthood — could well enter into competition with all she now beheld. Besides which, she felt that they not only ex- tended their protection to the fine arts, but to civilized, usefid and charitable institutions, which ANNA IN MEXICO. 47 Mexico was sadly at fault in ; and it was obvi- ous, therefore, tliat the want of refinement, against which she would have chiefly to contend, was still to be surmounted by some powerful cou^ de jeu which might bring this rude and apathetic peo- ple to their senses. Yet, there was the climate ! — ■ the climate of Mexico ! whose sunny air, all mu- sical with zephyrs' sighs and birds that flung their joyous notes high up into the ever-cloud- less skies, seemed welcoming with its celestial chorus the fair songstress of the ITorth : that land, whose ever-blossoming, eternal spring, like the enchantment of a fairy realm, seemed formed to be the birth-place of perpetual love, cradled in flowers of undying bloom. Alas ! that uatm-e, in the lavish bounty of her rarest beauties, should have founded there a j^aradise, and left it to a race whose incapacities but mar the happy work she had begun ! But the Mexicans are scarce in fault if nature hath so sj)oiled them. And it is only a blessed marvel that they have not gone down and sunk away from existence, long ago, in their utter dis- may at nature's oversight in not furnishing them 48 ANNA IN MEXICO. with hat-vines, and groves of boot-trees and semi- annnal crops of jackets and small clothes ! It was found to be a matter of some difficulty to obtain for the delectable Annita a private carriage of any shape under the sun short of a century ancient, as used by the antique Spanish aristocracy, and in vain the indefatigable Boch- sa sought for a modern coach-maker, even a place where European vehicles could be hired, thi"0ugh- out the entire city of Mexico.* At length, a French cou^e^ not exactly of the latest fashion, or formed to Bochsa's idea, but very neat withal and newly painted, was, in fault of something more brilliant, despairingly resolved upon. Moreover it belonged to a French- man, who had served in the armies of his country, and whose name, (Jn being asked, was ISTapoleon, as a matter of course. Fm'thermore, I^apoleon was known to keep good stabling in the yard of the Bazaar Hotel ; and so, taking all things * Foreign ambassadors, bankers and the few who sport ele- gant equipages in Mexico, are obliged to send for them to New- York, London, or Paris. — Ed. ANNA m MEXICO. 49 together into consideration, a bargain for tlie coupe^ horses, coachman and 7nucliac7io (lackey) was soon closed at an expense of $270 per month ; and, as JSTapoleon was something of a llagueur^ hav- ing boasted confidentially to Bochsa that he had driven Santa Aima and General Scott several times in that same vehicle, and even the hon cUgu^ himself, he was appointed by la divina Anna as her coachman. Thus mounted, when the Prima Donna drove for the first time to the Paseo^'\ the sensation she creat- * In rich catholic cities, priests, who purpose administering the sacrament to the sick and dying, are borne on their mis- sion in coaches drawn by mules, accompanied by twelve friars, and preceded by a man who rings a very loud bell, at the sound of which everybody, within hearing distance, un- covers himself and kneels until the cortege has passed. This act of devotion to the Host (or priest, which the superstitious believe to be the flesh and blood of Christ), is performed not only in the streets but also in the houses where, at meal times, soups frequently grow cold, owing to the servants who bear them from the kitchen, dropping suddenly down on their knees, dish and all, and praying vehemently, while the gourmand who waits for his hot dinner is as earnestly cursing over the chill prospect. — Ed, t The fashionable promenade and drive, thronged every day from five to seven, P. M., with gay carriages, ladies and ca- halhros on horseback. — Ed. 50 AiraA IN MEXICO ed is said to have been immense. The cavaliers, especially, followed her cou^S so closely that it was thought they had some intention of throwing their lasso at her, in the hope of catching the warliler ; while the jpietons rushed to elevated spots whence she might be deliberately devoured by their greedy eyes. The simple neatness of Anna's carriage-dress must have formed a striking contrast with the bril- liant and eclatantes toilettes noted down by her, as worn by the pretty Mexican women with* their short sleeves and low necks, and rainbow-hued French scarfs. And then, their luxurious dark braided hair which no possible cap or bonnet could conceal in its rich and glossy effulgence ; and the glittering fans so inhumanly agitated by destructively small ungloved hands, dimpled and ringed in the most profuse and sinful manner, and 'the whole dazzling array of half-languishing loveliness moving gor- geously on their way, as if bound for the Lonjd^ to * Lonja — the Exchange, and a sort of club and private riding arena. Its members are wealthy foreign bankers, brokers and merchants, who frequently give there the most sumptuous balls. — Ed, ANNA EST MEXICO. 51 lounge away an horn- or two in linman havoc, or to one of the President's routs to kill an evening with sighs, rather than engaged in a delicious drive to breathe the fresh pure air of the Paseo. But, oh, horror ! that these demi-angels, that might set the most radiant drawing rooms of Europe in a blaze of wondrous admiration, should possess such pearls of teeth and gems of lijDS to be once degraded by the insertion of honid little cigars ! — to contem- plate the issuing of the lazy-curling smoke that rose and scented the air from the chemest of lips and pinkest of nostrils ! Had the matter even ended here, it might have been worse. But the further aggravation of flints and tinder which he saw with his own eyes, clicking out a spark, whenever want- ed, by a single stroke of those murderous hands — this, Bochsa thought, was unpardonable. And so do I. JVieanwhile, the Donna Anna was looking her way, towards the cahalleros ; but instead of being asto- nished by the reputed magnificence of their horses' trappings, and spurs to the value of several thousand dollars, and saddles worth I don't know how many hundred doubloons — she simply saw neat saddles 53 ANNA IN MEXICO. and very nice appointments generally, very little differing from tliose of Em*ope, and laughed out- right. She then retm-ned her observation towards the riders ; but very little of the picturesque was even there. For, instead of their jackets* being profusely embroidered with gold and silver lace, and loaded with worked buttons, d la Figaro^ such as she had read of, they were extremely plain and without any visible ornament at all. Their color was generally blue; and their material, cloth or velvet, and they fitted well to the body. The large- brimmed Mexican sombreros^ gi'S^J? white or of a brownish red, worn by the cdballeros when on horse- back, were highly becoming and interesting, having a silver ornament on each side and two small silver buttons. A large number of the horsemen were ranged in a glaring rowf on a particular spot where the car- * Mexicans never mount their horses with a frock or dress coat, nor with a black hat of our fashion. About town, they dress as Europeans, and with taste. The best tailors are for- eigners, and some have a fortune of 2 or 300,000 piastres. — Ed. t As in Hyde Park, London — the Prater, at Vienna — Ka- mino Stroff, at St. Petersburg — and the Chiaja, at Naples. — Ed. ANNA IN MEXICO. 53 riages of the ladies were supposed to pass suffi- ciently near to them to make matters pleasant. They moreover seemed perfectly comfortable, seated in their huge, well-stuffed, high-backed saddles, with all appearances of well-stocked cigar-cases stuck in the pommel. Their serajpes^ or wrapping- scarfs, some of which were very costly, were neatly rolled up and strapped behind, as if in preparation for quite a jom'ney. Smoking was not only abun- dant, but there was not a lady, cavalier, child, ser- vant or discernible biped whatever upon the grounds, that had not the universal air of puffing for a wager. In fact, Anna had been informed that many a mystic love-language was put into practice, during a promenade, at the Paseo / and that many a deep sigh was exhaled in smoke, and many other expressions of feeling, graduated according to the manner in which the vapor escaped the lip. For ex- ample : a cavalier sees his idol ; when the following telegraphic communication not unfrequently ensues. Cav. Thou art beautiful ! {A startling gush of emohe^ Idol. I am perfectly aware of it. {An indiffev ent loMff.) 64 ' Al^NA IN MEXICO. Cav. Couldst tlioii love me ? {Smoke, languisli- ing and earnest^ Idol. I'm afraid not ! ( Whiff, faint and im- material.) Cav. O, why not ? {SmoTce, a deep, wild volume) Idol. I love another ! ( Whiff, decided, contemp- tuous and very hlue) Co/0. \ Caramba ! where is he ? {Face hecomes a natural volcano, and cavalier disappears) Livelier and more satisfactory conversations be- tween ladies and cavaliers, disposed to smoke each other, are expressed by a kind of smart puffs out from the right or left corner of the mouth, or one or both of the nostrils, according to that j)articular point of the compass where they are to meet, a series of little quick puffs conveying the hour of meeting. So, likewise, with the fan, every move- ment of which is a volume of nieaning — to those who comprehend it ! But Anna, not being one of the initiated, was of the persuasion that the language of eyes, on the European plan, was de- cidedly the most effective, natural, and the least capable of deception. The Paseo, however, was by no means exclusive ; AKNA IN MEXICO. 55 Crowds of the middle-classes, of both sexes, in full national costume,* being everywliere conspicuously distinguishable — especially the women, who are the prettiest hrunettes in the world, with their long cJievelu've massively braided behind, and their tiny neat blue and white satin shoes, without even a hint at a stocking ! — which might have been very plea- sant in itself, though shocking to Bochsa. This class of women wear, however, and with in- finite grace, their reboso^\ sometimes covering their heads with it, and the principal part of their faces. More frequently, it is loosely thrown upon their shoulders, displaying to better advantage the bosoms of their elegantly-embroidered chemises^ of which they seem to think very highly, as the exquisite work is usually done by the wearers them- selves, at an expense of about two months' time and labor. The vehicles in which the Mexican ladies lounge * As in the portraits of Madam Anna, representing ha, Ca- tatumba and La Pasadita. — Ed. t Reboso — a kind of large scarf — not worn by ladies — the best of which are made of China silk, and cost frequently from 150 to 200 piastres. — Ed. " * 66 ANNA IN MEXICO. away their drives are grotesquely beyond descrip- tion. Their postillions are of the most soiled and rusty character ; and their republican lackeys, al- most sans culottes^ and perched up behind their lovely mistresses, are observed to be intensely given to onions, turnips and sugar-cane, assmning divers dislocating postures, out of all taste and decoram, and exemplifying one of the thousand various fea- tm^es of indolence which seems to paralyze any sane attempt at improvement. Further on, Anna was somewhat taken by sur- prise at beholding, in the line of carriages, an actual, hona-fide^ gay-colored, l!^ew-York omnibus, with four American horses, a driver and cad, thereunto attached, and on it, in bright letters, ]}^ew Jersey Ferry to Eighth Avenue ! How it ever got there, in the Paseo^ or why it came at all — at least 10,000 miles from either of the two spots mentioned — was a puzzle to Anna and Boch- sa which they did not recover from for some time. And what made the matter still more interesting was the fact that, just hehind the omnibus, came the humble carriage of the President of the Ee- public, di'awn by two modest chesnut horses, and AXNA m 3SIEXIC0. 57 escorted by a couple of horsemen. His Excel- lency and daughter sitting within, and not a single featm^e of the whole equipage attract- ing the least interest or attention ! The omni- bus, it is said goes twice a day to a small town, Tactibaya, a few miles distant from the city. From six till eight in the morning, the Paseo and la Ala/meda (a garden adjoining) are much frequented by the gentry of both sexes, in- dulging in early rides, and enjoying with much gusto the loveliness of the landscape, and the fine views of Chajpultej>eG monte (once a royal palaczo,) of the principal abode of Count Cor- tina, and of the stupendous aqueducts which nearly encircle the entire city. This state of things, together with the balmy Mexican breeze, renders the Paseo^ at that hour, little short of en- chanting, and excites the ladies to commit all sorts of oddities, such as riding on the right side of the horse, with skirts of the brevity of a common walk- ing-dress, and generally without any bonnets, hats or other head-covering whatever. From that period of the day until the afternoon drive (as has been described), the elegant and fa- 3* 68 ANNA IN MEXICO. mous Paseo distinctly changes it character, and becomes, in the interval, the exclusive property of the leperos and other equally lazy, saucy and ragged classes, who thither drag themselves with their numerous families, to munch their tm'tillas and/ri- joles, drink pulque, smoke, bathe, wash their re- spective rags in the water of the ditches that border the Paseo on either side — and make their general toilette. The brilliant rays of a never-clouded sun serve as the only napkins for drying their bodies : and, after spreading out their fragments of apparel to undergo a similar process, they seat themselves quietly and drily under trees, quite unmindful of each other, or anybody else. It is one source of gratification to believe that they are clean ; for the quantity of soap they use is enormous. The majority of these Lejperos, like the !Neapo- litan Lazzaroni, have no homes, and sleep enveloped in their serajpes on the rich grass of the Paseo, or on the stone benches surrounding the fountains. After dark, it is dangerous to venture in its vicinity, or, in- deed, in any of the streets of the city, frequent robbe- ries and murders being the result of such rashness. The foregoing details concerning the Paseo will ANNA m MEXICO. 59 not be thought too minute when it is considered that, in the city of Mexico — doubtless fi*om the un- settled state of politics — there are no re-unions, din- ners, tea-parties, or other social intercourses to be en- joyed, and very few balls* to become a martyr to. The ladies are never seen dm-ing the day, except when devotedly on their way to chm'ch in black gowns and mantillas^ or lolling at their windows, smoking, in the most exceptionable and stockingless desliabille. Tlie promenades, therefore, at noon and eve (and the theatre, of which something hereafter) are the only places where the mannere of that ex- traordinary people can well be studied. * The hospitable house of the French minister, M. Levas- seur, is the only one open, once a month, for the reception of Mexicans and foreigners, of whose political opinions the gen- tlemanly and courteous host is delicately regardless. He is assisted by his amiable and elegant lady in his civilities to- wards his guests, effectually rendering these routs most cheer- ful and animated. It is seriously hoped that the Mexican grandees, enjoying princely fortunes and sumptuous palacios, will ere long lay aside political disputes and gambling, at least for a few months, and follow up M. Levasseur's liberal example. — Ed. SHOPPING, EEFLECTING AND VISITING. "While Anna was patiently waiting the arrival of her luggage-, what was to be done ! Bochsa thought she had better go out and look at the shops — and told her so ; for without her dresses it was impossi- ble that any professional traha^d^ could take place. They therefore strolled out together, and the dash- ing shops of the Calle de Platero^ Monterillas^ * Reversing the order of things, the Mexicans speak of playing, singing or other accomplishments of an artist, as work, expressed by the plain matter-of-fact word trabajo ; while, on the other hand, they use the word compueste, or compose (usually and properly applied to the eiFusions of poetry or music) for all sorts of purposes. With them, a cook com- poses a dish of cutlets, and a cobler composes a pair of boots ; in consequence of which promiscuous application the grimaces of Bochsa in endeavoring to be right, when ordering the muchacho or servant, to " compose" his bed, must have been frightful. — Ed, ANNA IN aiEXICO. 61 Spiritu Santo, and those under the arcades of the majestic Piazza de la Catedrale, certainly proved very attractive, though surprising that so many of them were kept by foreigners and contained none other but foreign goods. Leaving these unexpected emporiums of European wealth, for the moment, Anna drove to the first mantua-maker's. The ma- jority of these were French, who, having dropped their family names, or those of their husbands (and, in some instances, dropped their husbands too) were known only by the sentimental appellations of Clo- tilde, Yirginie, Esther, &c. ; and, after shopping to such an extent as she and Bochsa thought necessary, and chattering German, French and various other tongues, it became fully manifest to both that all trades and professions in Mexico were conducted by foreigners ; while the Mexican, with his proud and intelligent countenance beaming in his utter detes- tation of European blood, stood by, a mere looker- on, or, at the best, as the French have it une cinqui- eme roue a un carrosse — fifth wheel to a coach. Besides which, the French and German residents have formed their respective military legions, and mounted guard in the city of Mexico, in their re- 62 ANNA IN MEXICO. Bpective national uniforms, wliicli they display with as much ostentation as they would in Paris or Yi- enna. They have likewise established a fire-com- pany, (a thing never heard or dreamed of before in the country,) and provided themselves, at their own expense with all the necessary apparatus. The Steamboat, too, the first ever made and used in the interior of the Mexican Republic — which is to navigate on the lake Chalco^ border- ing the city, and to bring daily to the market all the necessities of good living,"* is the sole result of a Frenchman. One of the best periodicals, too, published in Mexico, and certainly the only one that has the courage to mirror the country as it is, is edited (in French) by Mons. Masson. The only book-store where European standard works and French and English journals can be obtained, is kept by M. Devaur, from Paris ; and the only shop where good engravings from the * Now accomplished with great difficulty and loss of time by small, rude Indian canoes, of the shape of those used three centuries ago, without a rudder, and managed with a stick by one person only. — Ed. ANNA IN MEXICO. 63 great masters can be seen, is under the direction of a Mons. Morean, tlie other depots of prints dealing chiefly in religious (or rather irreligious) daubs, and not very particular about epochs and history — the ti'uth of which was exemplified to Bochsa in the following odd manner: It so chanced, that, one day, Anna being de- sirous of a model for the purpose of manufactur- ing a French cap of liberty — Bochsa's attention was attracted in the street by a large oil painting, scarcely dry, which hung up in one of the shop- windows of a Mexican dealer. It represented the Emperor E^apoleon, receiving a crown of laurel from the hand of the goddess of liberty. The well-known features of the hero were faith- fully delineated, the hat, the historical gray pale- tot^ and even the spy-glass, were perfect. ITot- withstanding this accuracy, Bochsa was puzzled. He could not possibly comprehend what the deity of the French Republic had to do with the Em- peror ISTapoleon, or what the date, " 1848," could mean, backed up by the words — " Bepuljlique dcmocratiqiie''' — ^painted on the flags in conjunc- tion with the eagle ! Bochsa instantly entered 64 AJSTNA m MEXICO. the shop, and inquired earnestly what the pic- ture all meant. The man assured Bochsa, with a low bow and delighted grin, that it was a picture of Louis ISTapoleon — " el Presidente de la Bepublica Fran- cesa ! " " I think you must be mistaken, caro senor^'* responded the astonished Bochsa. "That picture is of the great l^apoleon, uncle to Louis, Look at the dress ! — and that hat ! why, the president of the present French Republic wears mustachios ! — and whiskers ! — and dresses " "^' Quien sahe^ caballero V interrupted the dealer, raising his eye-brows with a shrug. " All I know is that the painter, a Prabajador of great promise, has been perfectly in the right to antici- pate the wish of so many, that Louis Kapoleon were some such man as his uncle ! Besides, a Napoleon with whiskers and a French hat would never sell in the world ! Now, I've just sold this classical trcd)ajo^ for five dollars! What do you think of that ? — and two more ordered ! So, if, senor cahallero^ you would like one " " Like one /" gasped Bochsa, and quit the shop. A^STNA m MEXICO. 65 Anna fm-ther discovered that bankers, brokers, and even the washerwomen were, all, either French or German ; and that the type of grisette which characterized the latter, both in bright eyes and neat little frocks and caps, had lost none of its exquisite quaintness in the transplan- tation. " Bless me ! " said she, Anna was pai-t-ial to the Mexicans, " how foreign every body and every thing is in this great country ! " ",Yes," sighed Bochsa, over the dinner table. "Every thing is foreign, but the cooking — the very thing that most needs to be ! " Numbered among the morning rambles of the fair cantatrice were those to the jpalacio and printing establishment of senor Don Ignacio Cum- pledo. This gentleman, proprietor of the periodical, called " El Siglo XIX," (a journal much sought after in the city of Mexico, on account of its moderation and good sense) — wishing to avail 66 ANNA IN MEXICO. himself of all the latest European improvements connected with his business, recently visited ISTew-Tork, Paris, London, Vienna and Berlin for that purpose ; and, being a man of taste atid ample fortune, he brought over to Mexico, and there introduced, steam presses, experienced lithographers, with many of the more suhstantial inventions of the age ; besides a rare and costly collection of articles of Yei'tu^ which have given to his house all the attraction of a museum.* In connection with this, the Don, being a distin- guished horticultm-alist, has crowded his exten- sive conservatories, conducting to the saloons, with the choicest exotics of the earth. And then the elegant YoUere, sparkling with little fountains and richly musical with beautiful canaries ; and then the saloons themselves, with their elabo- rately -inlaid fm'niture, magnificent mantel-clocks d la Louis XIY., the full-toned Broadwood grand piano, Chinese mandarins bowing from all cor- ners in their porcelain importance, little orches- * Much in the marvellous style of the residence of Victor Hugo, in Paris. — Ed. ANNA m IVIEXICO. 67 tral organs playing popular airs, bright voluptu- ous Turkey carpets, indolently inviting stuffed sofas,* exquisite Psyches^ and paintings and engravings of the finest beauty encased in heavy golden gothic frames ; and then, in the spacious dining-hall, complete and massive services of Sevres and Dresden^ ponderous silver tankards of all shapes, huge chiselled candelabras, fantastic Bohemian glasses, curiously wrougM liqueur' stands, astonishing dishes of wax-fruits, " au natu- rel,''^ mysteriously corked wine-bottles that were never known to be brooched — were all crowding the highly-polished sideboards of the richest ma- hogany that seemed to grow purple under their weight. Anna and Bochsa were led out of this apartment effectually bewildered, and concluding that printers in those parts were certainly great men ; and subsequently discovered that the kitchen was not too remote fi'om it to have been planned by an epicure whose motto is " serves chaud ! " * Mexican sofas, that is to say, made by Mexican carpen- ters, are simply uncomfortable wooden benches, without a sign of a cushion, covered merely with a thin, light chintz ; they are very cool, however, and healthy. — Ed. 6* bo ANNA m MEXICO. That the artistes were satisfied is no matter of marvel; albeit at each exclamation of admir- ing wonder at sundry rarities, the Don never failed to reply to it with that conventional formula of Mexican comiesy, " a la dis_posicion de usted ! " or, in plain English — " it is at your disposal ! " — the bare-faced emptiness of which is so very ridiculous. Yet, let a stranger express his admi- ration of a Mexican's horse, carriage, or even his palace and it is invariably " at his disposal " — which most extraordinary exaggeration of j^olitcsse caused Bochsa to revolve in his mind the probable consequences of a stranger admiring a Mexican's wdfe ! Seriously, it is a very absurd overcharge of com23laisance, and no stranger should hesitate to take the Mexican at his word, and thus as- tound him out of his folly. Leaving the Palacio, though without taking it with her — for it was " at her disposal " — Anna then visited the adjacent , printing establishment. The steampresses were vigorously at work on the afternoon " daily," and the first sheet was offered to Anna, who received the impression very delight- fully, and transferred it to Bochsa to put into his ANNX IN JNIEXICO. 69 pocket. Thence they proceeded to "the apartments" of the journeymen printers, which certainly evinced a singular degree of philanthropy on the part of the proprietor. Here, there was absolutely " at the disposal " of each man and " devil " a neat little room all to himself, with a bed, table, mirror, slip- pers, and every conceivable article necessary for an miexceptionable toilette, including tooth and nail hms?ces, bottles of cologne, a\\d altogether magnifi- cently off for soap. The gerant, or head-master general of the colony, had also a room, with an aperture through which he could somehow discover what i^assed in all the others. Near by, was a little chaj^el where divine service was performed on Sundays and holidays.* Just beyond, an inviting refectory ; and oft', on another side, a cool smoking- room ; and just 'below, a garden with but it * The great frequency of these days is a source of continual disgust to travellers, who, when they least expect it, find all the shops, and even markets, shut. The churches, the Paseo, and the theatre are the only resorts on such occasions, when they are usually crowded to denseness. They occur, in some instances, two or three times a week, when one almost inces- sant bell-ring-ing is the consequence. — Ed. 70 ANNA IN MEXICO. were best to stop here ; — or tlie honest fellow who sets up this page in type may dream of emi- grating suddenly after nail-brushes and £au de Co- loqne. AN EYENING PAKTY IN MEXICO. An evening party in Mexico ! Good gracious ! " Can sucli things be ? " The annonncement was ahnost a coii/p d ''etat I — a ]yronunciamento ! The fashionable world couldn't believe it! And yet, how was it that so many fair ^enitentes were heard of running to their confessors to laiow if theix souls would be positively in danger (there was no ques- tion of the heart) if drawn into the delirious vortex of music and dancing at the threatening rout of Seliora Yanderlinden ? But Senora Vanderlinden knew precisely what she was about ; for she had planned it all expressly in honor of Anna, the fair cantatrioe I and the very elite of the heau monde were to be there. General Yanderlinden, husband of the Senora, and an eminent physician at the head of the Mexi- can Military Hospitals, though a Em-opean by birth, was a naturalized Mexican ; and, as his wife's 72 ANNA IN MEXICO. mansion was a perfect hijou, and both lie and liia wife most amiable hosts, it was not to be denied, on reflection, that they conld hazard things which others conld not think of. So, on the night set apart for this exciting no- velty, Anna and Bochsa were driven by N^apoleon to the scene of action. There, they found no ush- ers taking up the entire door-way to announce them ; but, at the top of the staircase, near an elegant conservatory, stood the General himself, taking each lady under his arm as she came up, and conducting her to his wife in the principal drawing-room, leav- ing the gentlemen to find their own way, and to have the kindness to do exactly as they pleased. And for Anna was reserved the place d ^Jionneur by the side of the leading hostess. Now Anna had heard, or somewhere read, that the Mexican ladies were sadly deficient in taste and refinement of manners of the salon. This, on the present occasion, she found to be a mistake. Instead of the gaudy and glaring colors she had remarked at the Paseo^- nearly all of them wore chaste white mousselin^s embroidered in a rich but tasteful style. They were further unengaged with ANNA IN MEXICO. 73 flints, tinder or cigars ; though the magic and all- oraciilous fan was kept incessantly waving through all its infinity of significant curves — but doubtless in a very innocent way, and more from habit than any serious intention of carnage, since no gentlemen were in sight at the time. Their general manner was reserved, disturbing themselves little by con- versation. Some were very pretty — exceedingly pretty — and their look, though poets would call it languishing^ struck Anna as being rather sleepy than otherwise. Still, on the whole, nothing vulgar or outre marred the dazzling coii;p d ''amil^ to which diamonds and other glittering gems lent their most radiant effulgence. Meanwhile, the gentlemen (including Bochsa) were dispersed through the other apartments, dis- cussing politics and pates^ gambling, smoking and patronizing the choice wines of the General who, applying the famous " a la disposioio7i de listed " to some delicious Lafitte and sparkling Montebello which he lavished around him, gave a touching lesson, en passant^ to the parsimonious and very nonsensical Mexicans. Bochsa, too, was treated with every mark of re- 74 AKNA IN SIEXICO. spectful distinction. Sundry Cahalleros pressed upon him the subject of music with great apparent interest, some of whom seemed to be incorrigible wags ; for they asked him earnestly " if the great Musard^ who wrote Don Giovanni, was still alive ? " — and, moreover, "why the 'mosquitos in France were so celebrated ? " — as they had heard that the last opera in Paris was called " Los Mosquiteros de la Beyna! " * — and lastly confounded him by in- quiring if the " Doodles" f were at all musical coti- noisseurs ! Bochsa is said to have gravely corrected this absm'd appellation of " Doodles," and to have complimented our nation in the highest terms on its universal refinement of taste in all the arts. Previous to the dance, two of the ladies (ama- teurs) sang with exceeding nicety the duet of '-'•Deh con fe," from Korma. The l^orma had a voice of * Meaning the " Musketeers of the Queen.'''' The French word mousquetahes, heing very similar in sound to the Spanish mosquiteros, which signifies a set of gauze bed-curtains to guard against the incursions of mosquitos, and the whole being confused together probably led to this horrible mistake, or, at best, most miserable pun. — Ed. f A facetious but very undignified term which they applied to the Americans! — Ed. ANNA IN MEXICO. 75 much richness, and gave Bellini's immortal beauties with great exj^ression. The duet was accompa- nied hj Mons. Michel, a Frenchman, the only singing-master in Mexico ! The desire to hear Anna now grew to be intense. She had not, however, made her debut in public ; and the courteousness of the assembly in not press- ing the matter, under the circumstances, was only equalled by their regret and impatient longing for the treat they had in store. Whereupon, the gen- tlemen being summoned to join the ladies in the dance, quadrilles, waltzes, gallopes and polkas were entered into with great spirit — amazing spirit, considering the national apathetic laziness and non- cTiala/nce of the people. Yet, though the ladies may perhaps be not quite so aa fait in the Terpsichorean art as the belles of America and Europe,* they moved and wound along through the labyrinth of enjoyment with an ease and abandon that was singularly charming. The Mexicans have no dances or music peculiar- * There is no such thing in Mexico as a dancing Academy. —Ed. 7 76 ANNA m MEXICO. ly national, with tlie exception of something of a wild Indian style, accompanied by uncouth airs, and totally unfit for a drawing-room. Occasionally, a slow Spanish fandango is introduced ; but, as few people on earth are so desirous of being considered civilized and jfashionahle (terms which are too fre- quently the extreme opposites of each other) the Em-opean dances are preferred. AEEIYAL OF LUGGAGE, AKD THE J^ATIONAL THEATRE. YivAT ! The Fourtli of July was duly celebrat- ed by tbe arrival of trmiks, carpet-bags, band- boxes, bundles and Bochsa's harp-case, after a lugging of about three weeks. The procession of mules that brought the artistic and precious burden, surely little thought, modest beasts as they are, that on the safety of their own necks depended the sum total of hopes and absolutely new life of the entire city of Mexico ! — and scarce, in fact, had they reached the tavern, where the a/rrieros most do congregate and lodge, when the event was blown about like gunpowder, start- ing even the laziest to a keen sense of the antici- pated revolution. The box-office of the National Theatre was besieged, and Anna's Hotel wildly bombarded by legions of dilettanti to ascertain lohen the first night was to come off. •■ ^' 78 AlINA IN MEXICO. 'Now, in the city of Mexico there are three theatres ; the National, the Principal and the Ifeio Mexico, all of which are rented by the same " management," who likewise are at the head of several gambling-houses. And, as the* theatres are not, in the long run, so satisfactory a specu- lation as the Monte tables, the said " manage- ment" have closed the PTincijpal and the New Mexico, keeping the National alone in full play all the year round. That establishment, though not to be compared with the Tacon of Havana, La Scala of Milan or the San Carlo of Naples — is not the less a fine building, which, from the third floor up, is also an hotel. It is situated in the Calle Berga/ra, and was erected when Santa Anna ruled Mexico, at which time it bore his name. Since then, being somewhat ashamed of its godfather, it has been called simply the Teatro National. By the way, Bochsa — excuse the digression — Bochsa, I say, once related to me a very dry anec- dote, the point of which is not a bad satire on cha- meleon governments, and to the substance where- of he was an ocular witness during the brief space ANNA IN MEXICO. T» of thirty-five years. Says Bochsa — when Louis XYm. first returned to Paris, all the shops and public buildings displaying on their signs the word " Imperiale" — as " Tresorerie Imjperiale^'' '■'' Lot- terie Iiiiferiale^'' etc. — instantly blotted it out and substituted "Eoyale." Before this became dingy with time, on the arrival of Napoleon from El- ba, " Royale" was expunged, and again " Iin- periaW'' loomed in its place, but was scarce dry when Louis XYHI. came back again! The Parisians now disgusted at the expense of paint, time and trouble used in these continual altera- tions, struck out simply the " Imperi " — ^leaving the space before the " aW'' to be filled up by the imagination, according to circumstances, until something of a definite understanding could be come to. ]^or have they recently substituted the word '"'' Nationale'''' without seriously meditating — so Bochsa says — on the exjDediency of jointly petitioning for a National paint-pot ! To resume, at the Teatro National of Mexico, four nights out of the week are devoted to the acting of a Spanish Dramatic Company, leaving only the Wednesdays and Saturdays free. On 80 AJSTNA IN MEXICO. Sundays, there are two performances, afternoon and evening. Most of the stalls (in number, 615,) and boxes (numbering 75) are pre-engaged by yearly subscriptions ; and, as there is no other establishment of the kind open in the city, and the character of the people so eager for continual change, a spectacle can scarce be re- presented twice in succession ; so that the un- fortunate stage-manager, who is dignified by the name of the " author,"* is obliged to keep his brain upon a constant rack in order to eke ouj; the thirty pieces per month for the gratification of his subscribers ! How some of our managers here would perspire in that country ! And then, after a comedy, usually follows a hallet^ the director of which is styled the Primo Bolero. It Is a poor Spanish affair, however, and is cer- tainly not worth the expense .of the enormous amount of castanets^ per year, upon which it deals such unmerciful destruction — ^noise seeming * So called, though he never is known to write any thing, all the pieces being Spanish translations from the French. — Ed. ANNA IN MEXICO. 81 to be its great vital purpose, that it may end off, as much as to say — " What do you think of that!" In addition to holeros^ fandangos^ &c., the Primo Bolero and the Primera Bolera sometimes indulge themselves and the public in a French pas de deux , — styled, with a facetious erroneousness, on the play-bills, "j^o-s doux''' — 7iot sweet I And certainly, as Bochsa says, nothing could be a more bitter spectacle than that of awkward, fidgetty, uncastan- etted hands and attitudes of most Bolerian extra- vagance, attempting to work their passage through the aerial achievements of La Taglioni, Carlotta Grisi, or the Monplaisirs ! The balustrade of the boxes, being exceedingly low, a fair opportunity is afforded for an advan- tageous view of the ladies and their display of toilette. Behind each box is a small private room (as in the Opera Comique at Paris) where they retire to take ices or chocolate by way of entr^actes^ and usually furnished with a carpet, mirror, arm-chairs and a small table, at the ex- pense, and according to the taste, of the subscri- bei*s. It is very seldom that a lady comes to the •4* 82 ANNA IN MEXICO. theatre without her bouquet, which is always a most choice and expensive article, frequently cost- ing fifteen or twenty dollars. Of course, the boxes, pit and gallery all smoke ; and it is rather a curious sight to see flints and tinder continually at work in some part of the house or another. The atmosphere of the theatre is, in consequence, much the same as that of a large and popular tavern, which is a source of excessive discomfort to foreigners. The daily increasing influx, however, of Europeans will, it is hoped, at no very distant period, have considerably lessened, if not totally abolished, this barbarous custom. Then there is another bore. As stall and pit cu- sTiions are not included in the price of the seat^ they are never to be found there on the arrival of the spectator ; but are brought round in piles on the heads of boys who follow the gentlemen to their respective places to speculate upon the luxury. This business goes on during the greater part of the evening, whereat both audience and performer are very much distressed. But then, each cushion fetches a iniedia / and the proprietors, on letting the theatre, take special care to reserve to themselves A2INA IN MEXICO. 83 this speculation which, in case of a full pit, proves ■' not a bad one. Then again, the cushions come in very well by way of a medium for the expression of forcible feelings, to which the Mexicans are very much given. At; any disaj)pointment on the part of the performance, they instantly seize upon their cushions and, with singular dexterity, shy them at the offending actor ! The first comedian, for in- stance — called the Galant — is frequently and most ungallantly knocked off his legs in this manner. The lasso would not be a bad thing to bring down the animal when he abuses the text of his author. If such a custom were only sanctioned here, in a few of ov/r theatres, it would certainly be a source of extreme satisfaction — and very effec- tive. The time was now near at hand for the appear- ance of the famed cantatrice upon those boards ; and Bochsa, still the faithful cTmperbn of Anna, had made all necessary arrangements for her debut, having engaged the Teatro Nacional on the off Wednesdays and Saturdays for ten nights, com- mencing on the 14th of July. He liad picked the 84 AJSTNA IN MEXICO. best orchestra he could find, led by Sefior Chaves,'^ Bochsa himself taking the 'baton. There was some fuss about choruses, as Bochsa discovered that no operas or even scenes costumees liad taken place in Mexico for nine or ten years at least. What was to be done ? — Bochsa was not — and immediately call- ed a serious meeting of all the singing ladies and gentlemen he* could hear of. Some of the elders of these chorus-men profoundly informed Bochsa that they " knew JSTorma and Lucia intimately." Bochsa, judging from their age, thought this highly proba- ble, but endeavored to represent to them that they would have to know something a little more mo- dern on the present occasion. Yes, but — they re- plied to Bochsa — all modern Italian music was pretty nearly the same thing ; and, as they knew NoTina and Lticia^ and had some acquaintance * Senor Chaves — a talented professor, who had been one of the first violins at His Majesty's Theatre in London when Bochsa was musical director of that establishment. Bochsa occupied that post, at the Italian Opera House of London, for many years, during which space he had under his direction nearly all the celebrated singers of the time, including Pasta, Malihran, Sontng, Grisi, Ruhini, Donzelli, Galliy ifc. — Ed ANNA IN HIEXICO. 85 with the Somnamhula^ and the Barher of Seville — • they of course could be ready in no time for any- thing else ! This caused Bochsa to stare at them ; but finding them serious, he rather laughed, and thought it certainly not a bad satire on the flimsy and pm-loined modern operas which now and then rise up, blast themselves, and vanish into oblivion. As for the chorus-ladies, some of them not only had been deprived of the pleasure of ISTorma's ac- quaintance, but had n't the slightest knowledge of the difference between a crochet and a quaver, though they could hum very well in company with the gentlemen. Yet, as on the whole, they were good-looking and dressed very nicely at their own expense, Bochsa thought it as well not to be too fastidious. Bochsa was perfectly right. CONGRESS.— THE REHEARSAL.— THE CLAQUEUR. Meanwhile the excitement in la ville hdbillarde of Mexico was at the highest pitch. The most ex- traordinary stories were afloat. Congress, it was said, gave np, in perfect despair, the idea of doing any thing for a month, as members would be tor- mented by their wives, who would come to the House after them and leave orders for them to send home dresses of the most magnificent .de- scription for the cantatrice's first night ! Deputies, it was reported, having votes to give for the new minister invariably wrote on their bulletins, " An- na Bislwp P"* — while others growing red and ener- getic on the corners of the streets, because no seat was to be had, were taken, in the heat of their frenzy, for conspirators ! AUNA m MEXICO. 87 Bochsa had prepared, for the eventful night, the following scenes, all of which, with the exception of the first, were sung in costume : — Scena and cavatina from Robert Devereux — Scene from Linda di Cliamoiini — Grand scene from Norma (" Casta Diva") — concluding with the magnificent Recitative and Ca- vatina, " Di tanti ^aljpiti^'' from Tancredi — all of which, as it is well known, are Anna's favorite triumphs. 1^0 other artists, except Yaltellina with two cavatinas and Bochsa with two harp solos, were to assist the delightful cantatrice^ who plainly saw that in Mexico, as in Germany, Italy, ?lussia and ]^orth America, she could be victorious only by the force and ^prestige of her own immense talent. On the morning of the rehearsal, some hours before the time appointed for it, the avenues to the National Theatre were so densely crowded, and the portico conducting to the front entrance pre- sented such a perfect jam that Bochsa, having given orders that no one should be admitted, in- quired of his casliier what the matter was ; and 8 88 ANNA IN MEXICO. was informed that all the house was taken for several nights^ and that it was the custom of the country to admit at rehearsals, people who had purchased tickets for the night. Bochsa was astounded; but, with the usual severity of the European Director, would not listen to any absurd- ity of the sort, and ordered that the doors be kept firmly shut. While the orchestra, however, were tuning their instruments and Bochsa intensely en- gaged in drilling the choruses on the stage, the pit, box and gallery doors were thundered open at one simultaneous burst, and in less than five mi- nutes the entire theatre was crammed, and shook with the shouts of '''"viva! viva Anna!'''^ and vitu- perations against Bochsa for keeping the doors shut. He at length perceived, in his despaii', that indignation was of no avail, and taking his seat as director in the orchestra, received his full share of applause. Aima, however, soon absorbed all eyes and ideas ; though the wind instruments frequently disgusted Bochsa by seizing the opportunity of a few bars of rest to plunge enormous cigars into their mouths, causing them in many instances to miss their ANNA IN MEXICO. " 89 rentrees ! while the ladies and gentlemen of the choruses, in l^orma's scene, so profusely smoked the unfortunate High-Druidess that she seemed totally wi*apt up in a cloud of mystic incense, which might have been very -effective had it savored less chokingly of the weed. The machinists and lamp- lighters were likewise at it with equal vigor ; and as for the kettle-drums — Oh, dios ! Bochsa disa- bused himself at once of the mad hope of ever see- ing his face again. Aside from these nuisances, the orchestra was excellent, and universally exhibited the greatest deference towards the portly and imposing director. Anna, meanwhile, was encored furiously in all her warblings, and the rehearsal once over, processions of gentlemen made in a straight line for the stage, each offering to her a gold 'media ,* while others presented her with gold by the ounce. One old gentleman, somewhat poorly clad, humbly ap- proached the divine songstress, and, with tears falling upon his aged cheeks, tendered his mite in * This movement is an old custom. The media was worth one dollar. — Ed. 90 ANNA IN MEXICO. a silver media. This touclied Anna more deeply than all the gold she had received from abler hands ; but when she turned to look upon the aged man again — he was gone, leaving her his blessing. A large number of precious gold coins were like- wise presented to Bochsa ; and, on the whole, he concluded, after some reflection, that it was just as well not to be over particular about having the doors closed at rehearsal. On leaving the theatre, Anna found the jportico^ as far as the street, lined with ladies and caballeros,, cheering her with vociferous plaudits and the waving of handkerchiefs and hats ; -while Napoleon, who, like his prototype, was accustomed to carry everything before him, sat perched upon the box of his coupe wedged to immoveability by the crowd, and flourishing his whip with a vague and frenzied air, until finally permitted to drive on slowly^ for the first time in his life, towards the Hotel, followed by the half-crazed multitude. Never was a man more in his element. Anna and Bochsa were delighted, of course, at this result of a mere rehearsal, and noted it down ANNA IN MEXICO. 91 as a fair omen for the niglit. It reminded her forcibly of her victories in Stockholm, where the Koyal Prince,* and ambassadors and ladies of honor of the good Queen followed in close escort upon her carriage. And while it called to her, moreover, her zenith days at Ui^sala (Sweden,) where a vocal clan of one thousand students pour- ed out their rich voices at night beneath her windows — and, at Copenhagen, where the Prin- cess Caroline had so often sent her equipage to bear the cantatrice to the scene of her glories — • and, at Odessa, where the delightful Countess "Woronzoff loaded her with the most costly gifts (among which was a certain shawl, much appre- ciated by Bochsa, being worth about 3000 dollars) — when Anna, I say, recollected these "times" she had had, in connection with what was now passing around her, it were not surj^rising had she, for the moment, forgotten even that Bochsa was at her side. But she did not^ — al- though Bochsa never returned a syllable in reply to her expressions of perfect satisfaction. Yet, * Now King of Sweden. — Ed. 8* 92 ANNA, m MEXICO. the world knows, as well as I, liis entire and most deep devotion, body and soul — which is say- ing a great deal — to his favorite pupil ; and even " g quiSn sdbe ? " was totally beyond his utter- ance. On the afternoon of that day, while Anna and Bochsa were at dinner, the servant entered with an announcement that a gentleman, waiting without, desired to speak with Madame Bishop, or with Mr. Bochsa. Bochsa responded that the gentleman might be shown into one of the draw- ing-rooms adjoining, begging that he would- have the goodness to wait a few moments, until they had finished dining. The servant obeyed, and, a few seconds after, Bochsa was not a little aston- ished at hearing the gentleman, in the drawing- room, humming " amis^ la matinee est helle " — " allons^ enfans de la jpatrie P^ — " Ah, qu'il est beau, le postilion de Long Jumeau ! " — and divers other spirited snatches of song in the most off- hand and hra/voura style ! What the gentleman could mean, what his object was, or who he could be, were so many Chinese puzzles to Bochsa. He accordingly arose and looked into the draw- 'k AJSTNA m MEXICO. 93 ing-room. Whereupon, the following dialogue took place.* Gent. {Low how) Yotre humble serviteur, Monsieur le Chevalier ! — {Sings — " Robert, toi que j'aime !") * This dialogue I have given in the language in which it was spoken, and word for word as noted down by Bochsa, being one of those untranslatable gems of smart French idio- matic crispness which lose all their sparkle the moment they are deprived of their native setting. The substance, however, may be given in brief; though, for those who can seize upon the esprit of the original, it must afford but a poor shadow of its genuine humor. The singing gentleman, it appears, in- formed Bochsa, in the first place, that he was from Paris, and, in the next, that he dealt extensively in fans. Thirdly, that fans, however, had not always been his profession, though he had even indulged in them since the Revolution of '48 had sent him adrift to breathe the pure air of Liberty in Mexico; but that he was likewise an ex-claqueicr from the theatres of Paris; that Victor Hugo, Meyerbeer and Halevy owed to him their success— especially Meyerbeer, who never looked at the ex- pense of his luxuries in the applause line. Finally, that Scribe was immensely influenced by him, as he (the gentleman) was always ready to recommend to his friends handkerchiefs and sobs, and had on hand a female who would faint any desired number of times, at 100 francs per spasm ! — and now offered his services to Madame Anna Bishop. — Ed. 94 ANNA IN MEXICO. BocHSA. ( Wondering^ hut very jpolite^ Tout a voiis, Monsieur. Que desirez-vous ? Gent. {Off-hand^ Je suis FTrro/)i(^'&Ss, — et je fais les evantails — BocHSA. ( With great courtesy) Charme de faire voire connaissance. Mais — • Gent. {Importantly) Mons. le Chevalier, j'ai quitte Paris — ou, pour mieux dire, Paris m'a quitte — {Sings — " Allons enfans de la patrie !") — c'est a dire, '48 m'a coule ! Alors je viens ici pour prendre I'air pure de la liberie — et -mes evantails — BocHSA. ( Wondering if the gentleman is set'ious) Monsieur, pardonnez-moi, mais je suis presse, et je ne vois pas quel rapport — Gent. {Singing — " En avant marclions !") Mons. le Chevalier, je n'ai pas toujours donne dans les evantails. ISTon ! Dieu le salt — {Sings — " Mourir pour la patrie !") — j'etais claqueur des theatres de Paris ! Victor Hugo — ^homme de talent — Meyer- hcer — un tresor pour nous autres, il ne regarde pas a, la depense ! — Halevy — pas mal ! — sont de mea amis. Bs me doivent leurs succes, Mons. le Cheva- lier. Et quant a la repetition je disais a Scribe — " Mon petit Eugene, change moi ga, j'aipeur que ANNA IN MEXICO. 96 je ne poiirrais pas leur faire avaler cette derniere scene, elle est trop sentimentale, pleuruisseuse ^ j'ai bien recommande a mes gens, les mouclioirs^ les sanglots^ meme je puis comj)ter sur deux evanouis- semens (la femnie de mon sous-lieutenant, Le C, etant fameuse pour tomber en syncope a 100 francs par syncope) — mais, mon petit Eugene, outre la de- pense, cela n'ira pas, crois moi !" Quant a Auber — • {Singing — " Signora, signora, a la migraine !") — BocHSA. But, sir — Gent. {Interruj)ting) Pardon, Mons. le Cheva- lier, les souvenirs, vous savez ! Pardon, mille fois ^ — j'ai appris que la celebre Mad. Anna Bisliop va commencer le trantnran apres demain, et je viens vous oiFrir mes services et ceux d'une cinquantaine de mes amis, que j'ai style. J'ai surtout invente un nouveau coup de terns avec la canne — -pan ! pan ! pan ! pan ! — hrava ! — pan ! pan ! pan ! pan ! — l)ravissima ! his ! his ! encore ! — il n'y a pas moyen de resister, et nos bons Mexicains n'y verront que du feu — 75 billets de^*^, et une vignt- aine de gallerie feront mon affaire — pan ! pan ! 2)an ! pan ! — {Singing — " Amis, la matinee est belle !")— 96 ANNA IN MEXICO. Bocliga could stand tliis no longer ! He regretted exceedingly that be could not profit by tbe oifer, in- asmucb as tbe ninety-five tickets demanded for the gentleman's services had all been included in the ticket-sale for some nights to come ; and that be bad ever advised Mad. Anna to trust to her own talents for the eliciting of all requisite applause. '^f course tbe gentleman burst out into the Mar- seilles ITymn, in his utter amazement at such an absurdity; assuring Bochsa that Grisi, Duprez, Jenny Lind — above all^ Jenny Lind ! — ah ! — she knew the stupendous value of such assistance ! Ha ! Ha ! Bochsa was about to retire in contempt, when, at that moment, Anna entered. " Ah !" shouted tbe gentlemnn. " Brava ! Pan ! pan ! pan ! bravissima ! Pan ! pan ! pan ! — en- core — " and sung, " Casta Diva P'' Anna, in her bewilderment, conceived the gen- tleman to be either very mad, or slightly inebriated ! Whereupon Bochsa attempted to explain by saying that the gentleman was a manufacturer of fans and reputations. At which the gentleman, conceiving Bochsa to be a joker, sang, " Le joli droit du sei- gneur !" — and added that it was all right — he was AJSnSTA EST MEXICO. 97 at their command — the Mexicans only wanted a little warming up — with a — pan ! pan ! pan ! — bra- va ! — bra-a-vis-s-si-m-a-a ! — that he would, therefore, be at the rehearsal on the morrow, just to seize upon the efiective points. — " But" — persisted Bochsa — advancing — Poh — poh ! The gentleman could n't think of Bochsa's troubling himself to show him out. It was all right ! Rachel owed to him all her success ! — • it was a difficult matter, to be sure, to blow it up for her and carry it out effectually ; but slie ! — Mad. Anna Bishop ! — Bah ! — he would guarantee (he knew by the looks of her) to carry the whole city of Mexico in her favor, at the point of his cane, in two nights ! — whereat, the gentleman, with ano- ther energetic j)an ! pan ! pan ! made a flourishing exit, singing — " J'ai long temsparcouru le monde !" Anna now laughed ! for she could not believe that the gentleman would keep his word. The following day, however, at the second rehearsal — which was accompanied by the same crowd, enthusiasm and smoke — what was Bochsa's horror, at the termina- tion of " Casta Diva," at beholding on the stage the invulnerable claqueur^ white kids and cane, sail- 5 98 ANNA IN MEXICO. ing up to the prompter's box and assm-ing him — " Ah ! really, we sang that morceau admirably !" — and, further, that he had six " gaillards solides''' with him who were positively ravished ! — and that he would accept his tickets immediately ! " But" — said Bochsa in a rage — " Precisely ! All right !" interposed the gentle- man — he should be there that evening without fail ! • — ^he would tender a " doigt de cour a Madame !" — ^veritably, he thought, there were in her acting " des momens a la Rachel !" — and therewith, dis- appeared. Towards afternoon, Bochsa was sufficiently cool- ed off to a]3preciate a compliment from His Excel- lency, the President of the Mexican Pepublic, who sent word that he, with his family and ministers, would be present at Anna's first performance. His Excellency has a large box, facing the stage in the centre of the first tier, which he is never required to pay for ; while it is customary for the artist whom he honors with his presence to expend about four dollars upon it, for lights and ornaments. The gentleman, whom Bochsa facetiously termed, Mons. le Comte de la Claque, failed not likewise to pay AJSTNA m MEXICO. 99 them anotlier visit ; and Bochsa, to get rid of him, gave him a few written orders, on condition that he would leave his cane at home ! — though he knew perfectly well that neither he, nor any of his troujpe^ could wedge themselves into any part of the house. ANNA'S DEBUT AT THE TEATRO KACIONAL. * " That Saturday, the litli of July, on tlie evening of which Anna was to make her first appearance, the aspect of things in the city of Mexico was a singular novelty for the inhabitants. The Paseo was empty, all the carriages, which usually throng that delicious drive in the after- noon, being drawn by the great magnet of the occasion towards the theatre, some hours previous to the " Dramatic Concert" which had been an- nounced. The Cafe and portico of- the theatre were intensely crowded, as the box-office was closed, all the seats in the house being sold. Speculators, who had bought up a number of stalls and boxes, were * Transcribed from the letter of a correspondent who wit- nessed the scene. It must have been somewhat exciting. — Ed. ANNA IN MEXICO. 101 disposing of them in the street at fifteen and twen- ty dollars each. No idea can be given of the con- fusion and general uproar ! A double guard was in attendance ; and the " judge" * of the theatre, with his attache^^ was at his post at the earliest hour. The rush, at the opening of the doors, was terrific, many ladies leaving behind fragments of mantillas, and gentlemen fugitive portions of their coat-tails." * All the theatres in Mexico have their judges — a sort of Prefet de Police — who sit every night in the City-government box (not that of the President), and under whose control are not only the performances, but the performers and the public. At the "National"' there is, each night, a change of juez, some of whom make themselves very disagreeable, by assuming the dignity of inquisitors and despots. No bills can be distributed in the theatre without their special sanction. And when a singer or an actor complains of sore throat, or other illness, and cannot perform, it is el Seiwr Juez who sends the physician to the artist, to ascertain if tlie indisposition be real or fictitious. Frequently the agents of this new inquisition really put the poor artists to tortures ; thrusting table-spoons down their throats, jamming the chest, and proceeding to various other so- licitous extremes, to find out where they suffer most. Then, at the theatre, if, on a crowded night, chairs be put into corners to accommodate the surplus spectators, without permission from the Juez — presto ! — a fine of fifty dollars is imposed upon the artist whose unlucky talents h&ve drawn too large an audience ! — Ed. 102 ANNA IN MEXICO. To give a further idea of tlie alarming sensation produced in Mexico by the debut of Anna Bishop, the last joiu'nals from that city proceed to most amusing extremes. In joint astonishment with the "/6'^We," '"''Monitor^'' " Universal^'' '''' Rejmb- lica^'' and " La Mode " — the " Trait d' Union " enters into the subject with the following gusto : " Success, complete ! — receipts, two thousand dol- lars ! Such is the summing up of the accounts ren- dered as the result of last Saturday's soiree at the ISTational Theatre. The house could have held no more. Stalls had been sold at ten dollars, and several boxes at four ounces (of gold) each. The public had re-decked themselves afresh for the occasion, and appeared in toilettes worthy of feting the, celebrated cantatrice. This augured well; for we have frequently observed that the dress of an audience has its degrees of carelessness or bril- liancy according to the merits of the artist ; as few care to yawn away the evening in the stiff elegance of a toilette recherche. Look at the unfor- tunate yearly subscribers, for instance, doomed five times a week to the soporific regimen of the Spanish company ! "What is the theatre to them, ANNA m MEXICO. 103 more tlian a kind of half-way-house hetween a day's work and a night's sleep ? Habit drags them in, to smoke the cigar of meditation over the pros- pect of their approaching slumbers ; and they peem only to regret that night-caps are inadmissi- ble. On Saturday evening, then, it was impossible to contemplate their array of costumes, the tho- roughly wide-awake expression of their counte- nances and the pleasurable eagerness of their looks altogether and not believe that the scene had been changed by enchantment — to say nothing of self-exjjunged cigars in the corners of their set mouths, which was miraculous ! All the beau- ty, wealth, and spirit of connoisseurs that Mexico could boast, seemed to have made a general ren- dez-vous of the theatre ; and never, within its walls, had there been a re-union so numerous, rich and well-chosen ; and the amateur of the jparterre, between the ravishing sounds he heard upon the stage, and the scene he beheld in the intervals around him, seemed lost in an ecstasy of oblivion which we could easily comprehend. " Our opinion of Mad. Anna Bishop is unva- ried. "W"e can but say, as we did on hearing 104 AJSTNA m IIEXICO. her at Kew-York, that we think it impossible to give to the art of vQcalization a more perfect method and a style more finished than that pos- sessed by Mad. Bishop. A consummate actress, her dramatic talent is no less exquisite than her singing ; while she is gifted, d onerveille, with the most delicate and choice taste in the arrange- ment of her costmnes. All which, combined with great grace and elegance of person, may readily account for the marked favors which the public have showered upon her. " The superiority of Mad. Bishop is more clearly exhibited in the allegro than in the andante; her trills and cromatiques are incredibly perfect ; while the crescendoes and diminuendoes of her final notes are executed with such efiect as scarcely to allow the hearer to breathe until they have died away, when the consequence niust invariably be a bm'st of the warmest applause and admira- tion." The Trait d' Union^ in speaking of Bochsa, says : " He is, incontestibly, the greatest harpist ever listened to. The difiiculties necessary to sur- mount in order to become a proficient upon this AJSTNA IN MEXICO. 105 instriiraent, are, unfortunately, but little known to the public, who would form a just estimate of his truly wonderful powers. The gratification ex- perienced by the auditors at the unexpected in- troduction of po23ular Mexican airs, in one of his impromptus fmitaisies^ was unbounded, and the choice of his pieces should certainly be left to himself hereafter. More of his gems are prom- ised us on Wednesday evening." Sig. Valtellina is hereupon much complimented, as a singer ; and the review winds up with a predic- tion of Anna's continued triumphs, which, accord- ing to the echoes of the other journals, quite equalled, if not surpassed, the first. From " El Monitok : " — " Yesterday evening, the desires which our public had so long mani- fested, to hear this celebrated cantatrice^ were at last realized. For the moment, we have only time to say that the brilliant and most numerous audience were enchanted, ravished, at the artistic talents of Anna Bishop, which surpass all that can be conceived. The enthusiasm caused by the melody and expression of her exquisite voice was very great. We shall, without delay, publish a 106 AJSTNA IN MEXICO. detail of this beautiful performance, which truly formed an. ejpoque^ ever to be cherished in the memory of the Mexicans." The "Siglo XIX"— after lauding the good taste of Mexicans, and remarking upon the solid appearance of the house, and the singular compo- sure of the audience until the rise of the curtain, as though the occasion had robbed them of the power of speech — proceeds to say : — " The toilettes of the Senoritas were simple and elegant. White robes, with a bouquet upon the bosom, hair plain, but arranged with an in- nocent and seductive coquetry, ornamented by a single flower, or a band of pearls, were those most generally worn ; while other damsels, decked in their own beauty alone, had only to move their dark eyes, and smile as they dreamily turned aside their heads, to arouse the coldest spectator to the loftiest 23itch of excitement. "Finally, Anna Bishop appeared; and her ele- gance of tournure^ grace of bearing, finished taste and richness of costume, instantly captivated the admiration of the public, who saluted her with a ANNA IN MEXICO. 107 thunder of applause tlian which we want no better proof of our national gallantry ; and the immense talent of the cantatrice was, throughout, greeted and acknowledged by frequent interruptions of the most vociferous lyravasP The " Siglo XIX " here enters into a rapturous re- view of Anna's " Casta Diva^'' and of her beautiful court-dress in '-'•Linda^'' — and thus concludes, with reference to her " Tancredi : " — " Old and young know this theme by heart ; but Anna Bishop, by that magic which alone belongs to thegreatest artists, has given to it a prestige truly surprising. What sweetness ! — what tenderness I — • what expression ! — what melodious echoes ! — what charms pervading all its harmonies, penetrating into the depths of our hearts ! That one scene is worth the whole concert together, and will secure to the interesting and dark-eyed Anna a marked -tii- umph in every part of the globe — it is her crown- ing laurel!" * * . * * " As regards the famous Ilarpist, Bochsa, no eulo- gium of his performances has been exaggerated. Clear as the tones of a nightingale in his touch, he completely overrules every difficulty of this undo- 108 ANNA m MEXICO. cile instrument, and, by the power of his genius, draws from it such torrents of harmony as over- whelm the audience with delight and wonder." Touching the second lujvic representation of Anna, " ^l Universal^^'' in an article of extraordinary length and interest, remarks upon the notable mi- racle of the house being again crowded ! — a thing never heard of on the occasion of any previous re- petition of the same attraction. The " Trait cV JJnion!^'' likewise, keeps ujd the fiery volleys of delight, with its own peculiar and able force, and is as much in raptures as ever. Of the ^/m'cZ night, '■'■LaModa^'' goQ& into ecstasies over the dazzling elite of Mexico of which the co- lossal audience was composed, and the continuous encores Avhich scarcely permitted the helle cantar trice to be off the stage for a single moment. " El Monitor'^'' remarks upon the grandeur of her " Masnadieri " de Verdi, and the sublime andante which followed it, and to which Anna had done so much more than ample justice. Her scenas from ^'' Lucia,'''' '•''Lucrezia Borgia^'' and her famous ^'- Tamcredi,^'' were beyond all criticism. Bochsa's ANNA IN JIEXICO. 109 harj)-solo is dwelt upon, as a composition of the most exquisite brilliancy and a performance of in- credible jDower and beauty. Of the fourth night, the " Siglo XIX " begins to observe the increasing demonstrations of un- bounded pleasure on the part of the dense jams with which Anna and Bochsa continued to be greeted, seeming not to foresee where, or how, it will end ! It showers upon the cantatrice its entire vocabulary of eulogium, and confesses itself elec- trified, not only by her enchantment of song, but by her versatility and the immensity of labor which she crowds into a few hours without any apparent exertion. Of the fifth night, " El Universal.,^'' in another of its extended review^s of the never-tiring sub- ject, cites Anna's sce^ia from " Desdemona " as a lavish of all her treasures of tenderest song in one continuous outpouring fi-om beginning to end. " Divine" — " celestial" — " harmonies which, like those of Orpheus, could move the stones and fiercest brutes and hardiest forest-trees to ecstasy" 110 ANNA IN MEXICO. — are among the weak expressions of its delirious praises. Thus crazily and suddenly thrown from their accustomed apathy to the highest climax of won- der and vociferous adoration were the public and press universal of Mexico at the appearance of Anna and Bochsa, until it was thought " chaos had come again." The other journals of that day, in common with those above quoted . from, con- tinued to be so voluminous in their all-absorbing exaltations of the artists, that to do any one of them justice, in citation of their details, would require certainly a separate volume. It was an era in the history of the people which will never be forgotten ; and let no one in after years look to the records of that period in the mad hope of finding any other subject, political, social or otherwise, treated upon, except Bishop and Boch- sa, and Bochsa and Bishop ; for all else seems to be penned from minds confused, bewildered, un- certain, through the apparent laboring of some spell and universal mania. One feature, too, of this mania is remarkable. From the first night, ANNA IN MEXICO. Ill SO far from flagging in its power upon the pub- lic and the press, though it had already secured an apparently insurmountable hold upon them — it grew on still, night after night, until, at the close of the tenth, the curtain fell amidst the cheers and outbursts and applauding thunders of an audience to which no other, ever congregated in Mexico, has been known to a23proach. The journals were, in many instances, but si- multaneous echoes of each other in their inade- quate praises ; though the minutiae of criticism af- forded innummerable ramifications, dissertations and labored opinions upon the lyric art, which had been called into life by the magic notes of the singer, and for which the connoisseur, on reading them, will ever be grateful. Occasions, too, were taken to descant upon the society of Mexi- co, its beauty, wealth, taste and display of elegance in toilette as exhibited by the multitudes that eacfi night had thronged and beamed within the walls of the Teatro Nq^nal — features brought to light which had been never known to exist, and charac- teristics observed which had never before been dreamed of — and all through the single force of that 10 112 ANNA IN MEXICO. magnet whicli had drawn them together and so re- volutionized, for a time, their national inertness. Anna had now given five grand Dramatic Concerts, and her popularity was hourly on the*- increase — which was odd, considering the ever- variable character of the Mexicans, and the great dearth of strangers ; and Bochsa finally yielded to the universal demand that she should appear in an entire opera. ISTorma wa§^selected for this purpose, being the easiest to produce. Sig. Yal- tellina was to be the Oroveso^ la Senorita SucJio. Mosqueira {sucJi a name for a young Mexican songstress of such j)romise !) as Adalgiza^ and Sig. Zamni as the fast young Roman and naughty deceiver, Pollione. That singer, it seems, was a very remarkable genius in his own way, and in the way of every body else. He had dropped the second-tenor line to become an administrator of the Tiational Theatre and sell box and stall tickets, somewhat after t\iQ^*huffo style of Doctor Dulca- mara with his famous " Elixir." 4|ile was always ready to undertake any part in any opera at any given notice — comico, serio, bufib, tragico, histo- rico, or pantomimico — written for Basso profimdo. ANNA m MEXICO. 113 Basso bariton, Tenor, Tenor Sfogato, or Falsetto — • especially Falsetto. He never broke down — one recommendation whicli Salvi should take a liint from. He bad, however, one failing — all your great men have one, at least — and that was, an endeai-ing weakness for roast fowls and bottles of claret before going on, and without which, he could never think of singing a note in tune or acting up to any ideas but those the remotest from the scene that happened to strike him. Eeally, apart from chickens and claret — what a card he would be for manager Barrett. He had a system, though, about these things. When the part he was to sing was of a tender and delicate strain, the part of the chicken which he ate corresponded accordingly, as a piece of the bosom and heart. For comic parts, he would select the merry thought. For bilious and splenetic parts, the liver. For flighty parts, the wing — and for stem parts, in hasso jprofundo^ whatever portion he conceived to be the most rich and fat, and solidly adapted to the purpose. - This caprice of Sig. Zamni — much more sub- stantial than many in which the Italian singers 114 ANNA IN MEXICO. frequently indulge — may not be wondered at, when it is so well laiown that a certain famous tragic actress, of the Kemble school, invariably carries with her a very mysterious richly bound volume, labelled " Shakspeare," which revels in the inspiring contents of a fiat eliptic bottle of very fair cognac^ and which, no doubt, occasion- ally so " carries her away" in her fond apprecia- tion of that master spirit. And then, if poor Malibran was unable to raise herself to an encore without a similar impulse being secretly impart- ed to her behind the "wings," and Pasta, the greatest Dramatic cJianteuse of the age, totally unprepared for Desdemona without the assistance of a good stout moorish-looking body of London porter — why then the versatile Sig. Zamni sure- ly has a right to stick to his fowl stimuli and sour claret until doomsday; and it is hoped no one will disturb him, if he does — for he might do worse. But Norma, since the days of Pasta, seems to have been the standard test-piece of lyric artists. With respect to Anna's conception and execu- tion of this part, in the embarrassment of choice. ANNA IN MEXICO. 115 from the abundant and extended reviews in the i Mexican journals, I shall simply take the letter of a musical friend, resident at that time in Mexico, and on whose sound and impartial judg- ment I may safely rely. Besides embodying the spirit of the numerous oritiq^ies of the press, its remarks uj)on the relative merits of her Norma and Lucia, two characters so distinctly contrasted, will be of much general interest. " Anna's performance of N^orma is one of the most classically chaste and perfect I ever witness- ed. As often as I have seen Grisi, and well studied her in that masterly opera, though she is extremely fine in some parts, she has always appeared too boisterous — the same fault with Pasta — too much of the modern jealous woman rating soundly her unfaithful lover, and furious against her rival. She wants loftiness, pathos, and the grander struggles of natural dignity successively against the passions born of her unhappy love. She rather conceives the character to be a termagant than a woman of deepest sensibility, combatting, in her despair,' against the agonies of her falling pride. Jenny Lind falls into the other extreme ; and one rather 10* 116 ANNA IN MEXICO. pities her Norma than syrrypathizes with it. Nor- ma is a creation which admits of but one expres- sion — sublimity. And the artiste who would un- dertake it successfully must be one of passionate heart, and of a mind capable of grasping the high- est order of dramatic composition. And such is Anna Bishop — from beginning to end, she feels the part acutely — she is Norma's self. Nothing of her \'alliant and proud 7ulque^ which is i sent in ttiat manner through the whole country." Bochsa started. " They are first killed," added Don Pepe, " and then shaved, and great pains are ■ taken to make their skins as white as the face of a European muchachoP " I see," replied Bochsa. " But then, by tm-ning pigs \nio pulque casks, you lose the succulent and savory ham, and the delicious dish of. pig's feet, and " " Mani di porco — pig's hands^ you mean, Sefior caballero ! " " What ! " said Bochsa, confounded. " Tou call the feet of pigs, hands ! " Don Pepe nodded— and Bochsa made instant note of the fact on his tablets, as a proof of the gi'eat progress of Mexican civilization. He fur- ther discovered that the Mexicans, in common with "the Jews, dislike pork exceedingly, believing the very devil is in it. Anna, in the meantime, found the roads very wretched ; although the first three leagues and a half were got over very cheerfully by dint of pleasant chat, only once interrupted by the per- 156 AJSTNA IN MEXICO. formance of what Boclisa termed a morceau cPen- setnhle — in other words, the discussion of a». pair of roast fowls, a cold pdU^ a tongue and sundries, with a few glasses of Lafitte and Cii/ragao. * Soon after, Don Alvaredo was observed to stop the mules and dismount in front of a fonda^ in a small village, Don Pepe following his example, as well as the entire escort— which caused Anna and Bochsa to stare out of their respective windows to see what the matter was. They were informed that it was breakfast time, and were immediately left to themselves, to alight if they saw fit. They did see fit — for the variety of the thing, if nothing more. And, the chair being thereupon unhitched, and put to its proper use, they descended accord- ingly, stretched up a little, and thought they would go into the fonda. And there, perceiving the body guard ranged imposingly iK)und a large table, covered with snow-white linen and loaded with hot toHilla^^ frijoles^ and dishes of stewed fowl with tomato and Chili sauce — Bochsa's face glowed with a smile of admiring gratification almost amounting to enthusiasm. While Anna regretted only that the spirited performance of that iiwrceau d'ensemr ANNA IN MEXICO. 157 Ue^ by herself, Bochsa and secretary had so far impaired their appetites that they were forced to limit themselves to delicate fi'esh figs, water-me- lons, goat-milk cheese, and several cups of choco- late, imder the shade of some delightful old trees hard by. In less than half an hour afterwards, the car- riage and retinue were again en route^ and about two o'clock, P. M., reached, without any further notable incident, the town of Cuantillan, having accomplished the twenty-one miles in about six hours. CUANTILLAN— AKD THEII^CE TO QUEEETAEO. ^Nothing could have seemed to the travelling party more desolately miserable than the insignifi- cant town of Cuantillan — and the dingy little me- son (the only one in the whole place) where Don Alvarado took them. ]^ot a living body was to be seen in the large dismal court-yard — set around with the usual range of coops, called travellers' rooms — save a lout of a mozo^ enveloped in a dirty ragged serwpe^ staring unmeaningly at the artistes and evidently very little disposed to put the bunch of keys, dangling in his hand, to their legitimate use, to give his new guests their choice of " apart- ments." Finally, however, haviug leisurely finished the stump of his^-ww (a very large cigar of com- mon quality), the thought seemed gradually to dawn upon him that they were standing there be- ANNA IN MEXICO. 159 fore him for some sucli pm-pose, and so, indolently opening one door after another, he merely men- tioned the fact of their being ^^ dos reales''' — or, two shillings — ^per night each, and then dragged him- self off in a drowsy way to light another puTO — all which, taken together, Bochsa looked upon as the driest and most lazy proceeding he had wit- nessed for some months. The rooms into which the guests were shown, lighted only by roimd holes in the doors, were much of the same description as those of the Mexi- can mesons before talked of, with the usual com- forts of a ricketty table and bench^ and a deal or brick platform in a corner for a bed. ISTothing else was visible that could add to the attraction of these dens, with the exception of a few lean distracted rats, trembling about in the greatest excitement, to know what the intruders were uj) to. This gave Bochsa a shock of nervous uncertainty as to the time it would probably take to make the place in- habitable for the night. But even while he pon- dered upon this, he little supposed that Anna had already given her orders ; and, before he could well turn round, the two coachmen and the rest, under 14 160 ANNA IN MEXICO. command of Don Luis Cortes, having lent a shonl- der to clear the vehicle of everything needful to general comfort, were rushing to and fro with in- credible swiftness, and in less than ten minutes the four rooms selected had, each, its pleasurable bed and bedstead, with all the customary necessities for toilette; while to that of Anna was further added a mirror, a carpet and two chairs, with four whole legs apiece. Cortes hereupon opened a large basket containing the dinner apparatus, and with the scrambling eagerness of a spider at his weft, spun it out piece by piece upon the table in the dining-room, and rubbing his hands with the greatest glee, desired Anna to have the kindness just to come and look at it — that was all. Pending these manoeuvres, Don Julio was in the court-yard, engaged in peeling potatoes, tomatoes, and onions, and Don Marco lighting a brisk fire in the deserted kitchen of the fonda^^ to enable * Every meson has its fonda — or restaurant — a very dirty, miserable, starving-looking concern, usually inhabited by bugs, and one or two old witch-like hags for cooks, who, when not occupied in culinary duties, frequently amuse them- selves by combing each other's hair ! — Ed. ANNA IN ]VIEXICO. 161 » Don Luis Cortes to compose a maccaroni soup, a i dish of cutlets, stewed eels, fried eggs and ham, under the supervision of the secretary, and in strict accordance with the bill of fare which Bochsa's • appetite had inspired him to suggest. i Awaiting dinner, Anna and Bochsa took a turn about town ; but observing nothing in the silent and dreary streets save numerous small pigs, about two quarts large, ready to bm'st wiih. j)ulque^ they soon returned to the tneson^ and there sat down to a perfect banquet, served up in the first style by Cortes, assisted by the other Dons. But the busy clatter of knives and forks re- mained not long uninterrupted ; for the sound of approaching wheels without started Anna and Bochsa to see what was coming, and the sight was certainly one of a very astonishing natm'e — being another gigantic vehicle, of the melon family, drawn by six mules, and loaded inside with an enormously fat priest, and on top and all ronnd it, beds, mattresses, frying-pans, gridirons, coffee-pots, nameless necessities of the bed-chamber, etc., etc. ; while underneath it, discernible through the inter- stices of the great rope net, arms, heads, and half 162 ANNA m MEXICO. a dozen pretty female legs* were consj)icuous, like so many innocent ^alves going to slangliter in a basket — and whence emerged, at halting, three jjretty senoritas^ of the souhrette fashion, which much amazed Bochsa! Thereupon followed the padre himself, and, after him, a stately yellow matron — probably the housekeeper of the imdre — but that is nobody else's business. The jpadre had no escort — as ladrones never attack monks or friars — and his only weapons of defence were a crucifix and several wax dolls, bound, with umbrellas, all in a bundle together, which were taken out and carried carefully and seriously into his room. For the onozo had, at first sight of the padre, started from his lethargic P'uro, as if suddenly galvanized, and kneeling be- fore him, had j)resented to him the keys of all the rooms remaining in the onesoii. And then, it being Friday, a large fish-basket was taken to W^fonda by two of the padre's j)retty maids (or whatever they were), while Bochsa observed to Anna, that * The reader may remember that the Mexican girls wear no stockings. — Ed. ANNA IN MEXICO. 163 it was fortunate that their dinner was cooked, as, in all probability, if the sacred father, seraglio and company had arrived an hour before, they would have taken possession of the whole kitchen, in the name of la Santa Trinidad^ and Cortes and troupe have been ejected bodily from the premises. The ])adre^ it appears, had selected his room opposite to that of Anna, on the other side of the court-yard; but whether by chance, or intention- ally, nobody could discover. And what was still more embarrassing, the doors of these rooms must, of necessity, have been kept open, or Anna could not possibly have seen to turn round, much less to sew, or do any other little odd thing she might deem necessary. So that everything that passed in the padre's room was unavoidably before her very eyes. In a few minutes, two of the girls went in and made the friar's bed, the third arrang- ing the wax dolls and crucifix nnder the open umbrellas, in a very imposing manner ; while the stout matron kept constantly vibrating between the kitchen and the friar's room, bringing in dishes of sweetmeats, and seeming altogether to be very much concerned about him. 14* 164 ANNA IN MEXICO. Towards evening, Don Alvarado having inform- ed Boclisa tliat eleven leagues were to be accom- plished on tlie following day, it was thought best to make some preparations for going to bed. The coach was therefore rolled under the arcades that surrounded the court-yard, where Don Pepe sta- tioned two armed men, to guard it from being secretly j)urloined, while Don Mariano laid himself down between the wheels, under cover of his sad- dle and serape. The other Dons likewise slept " al fresco^'' not far off, and Don Luis Cortes, after care- fully putting away his jaqueta and fine leghorn, stretched himself out, by special permission of Bochsa, on the threshold of Anna's door, smothered up, together with his cavalry sword, in his ample serape^ with his saddle for a ^Dillow. What happened during that night is not recorded in Anna's notes. The next morning, before the hour of six, coffee and chocolate having been served, the carriage was again cargoed with extraordinary care, dexterity and dispatch, and the bills being paid, and a trifle thrown in for the use of the kitchen, the chair was placed, and all were ready for departure — though not without a parting glance AJSfNA IN MEXICO. 165 from Anna towards the friar's room, in M-hicli wax candles had been bm'niug all night, in honor of the wax dolls under the umbrellas. The imvtj then made their ascent into the vehicle, and, a moment after, it thundered from the court-yard, Don Fej^e Silva and his troop saluting them in ordre de ha- taille at the gate, with great dignity, and away went the entire retinue, leaving the smoking mozo — who had been standing at the door to ascertain if any tables or portions of the building had not been smuggled off among the smaller luggage — glaring vaguely after them until they were out of sight ! The mesons incidental to the rest of the journey, as far as Queretaro^ differed but little from the one our travellers had left, there being a manner- ism about them that argued their being built by the same architect — though assuredly not a Trim- ble. The roads continued to be execrable, the fmidas filthy, and not unlike that mentioned by Gil Blas^ in so far as everything could be had there on inquiry, although, when anything was wanted, nothing could be found. And, notwith- standing Bochsa had learned, to his great dis- 166 ANNA IN MEXICO. comfort, that, in St. Juan del Rio^ (where they stopped on the fourth night,) there lived a certain gentleman of -fortune, having in his pay a strong party of highwaymen, of which he was the chief, frequently robbing and mm-dering travel- lers in the wood immediately beyond — as sundry crosses and bloody poles, with bunches of human hair and garments stuck on them, most frightfully attested — and although they positively saw an alcalde^ with two men, bearing on a jjlank the body of another man, who had been assassinated the very night before — still Anna's honne etoile shone, guardian-like, above her, and not even the romance of an attack, as yet^ occurred to interrupt the monotony of the route. This season of peace, however, did not prevent Cortes from preparing for war ; and he was observed even to tie his black ribbon a little tighter under the chin, and secretly add to his already warlike array of arms an immense carving-fork ; while Don Pepe Silva and his men fiercely cocked their pistols and carabines, and in this wide-awake manner, entered very safely and quietly the city of Quereta/ro^ on the afternoon of the 2d of October. QUERETARO. Don Alvarado, tlie cuchiero maggiore, having many times before visited the city of Queretaro, contlucted at once our artists, and their retinue, to the best meson of the place, which, certainly, was much better ap- pointed than any they had met on the road. Instead of the whole of the bed-rooms being on the ground-floor, as usual, the best of them Avere situated on the first floor ; the tables and chairs had their full complement of feet, which did not want to be propped by a ^tone or two, to make them steady ; and even i\iQfonda attached to the establishment seemed to be well provided, as it sent forth, wdien our artists alighted in the court-yard, at the dinner hour, such savoury exhalations, as to promise a rather succulent meal. The entire first floor, consisting of seven or eight rooms, was taken by our party. Madame Anna had a most comfortable bed-room, and also a little boudoir, with two windows, garnished with panes of glass, which was considered to be a matter of no { 167 ) 168 Ai4JStA m MEXICO. small consequence. Don Pepe and his men were favored with a front room, and the Dons Alvarado and Mariano installed in a corner one. The Secretary had, likewise, a very pleasant quarter of it, and Anna's maid — whom, by the way, I had nearly forgotten to mention at all — in a nice little box, all by herself, to keep in order the rich and costly costumes of the dashing cantat^'ice. This general distribution and arrangement, Bochsa thought would do very well, even for the space of two or three weeks, to which extent Anna had 2)urposed making her sojourn in Queretaro. The city of Queretaro is well built — none more so in the republic — and is esj^ecially famous for its bigotry ; monks, friars, and, above all, Jesuits, being as plentiful as tortillas and frijoles. The Secretary, who was of an exploring mind, had been sent out on arrival for the purj)ose of report- ing something as to the character of the place; and on his return in the evening, gave notice that the people were singularly desj^erate in their anxiety to hear the renowned cantatrice^ but that the Jesuits would n't hear of it, and woidd be very likely to rise en masse in opposition to any ANNA IN MEXICO. 169 Btrangers taking the public money, which they considered was exclusively their own ! Bochsa was startled — but was further informed by the Secretary that ho had made some friends at the Apothecary's shop, and he thought all would be right — ^which appeased Bochsa materially, though he still wondered what the Apothecary's shop had -to do with Anna's performances, further than the administering cough potions, or the possibility of some of the dilettanti being sick and requiring strengthening plasters to get to the theatre. To this the Secretary replied, that, in almost every city of Mexico there was a particular apothecary's shop which was the favom'ite lounge, above all other apothecaries' shops, of the fashionables, and where the events of the day were discussed and smoked over, as in the cafes of France, and that Madame Anna and el caballero Bochsa could not do better than drop in there some morning by way of refreshing themselves in their walks. Bochsa was on the point of asking what sort of refreshments a man might expect to find there — but his feelings would not permit him, and he turned the subject, and, with his peculiar Louis 170 ANNA IN JMEXICO. Philippic smile, said lie would take his dear pupil there with the greatest imaginable pleasure. Of course Anna was much fatigued after five days' hard travelling, and went to bed very early ; while Bochsa and Secretary proceeded at once to the theatre (now open with a Spanish company) to see the '■'' author^'' with whom he had been in correspondence. That the theatre had been a cock- pit was already well known to l^ochsa, though it was now made into a kind of circus, with three tiers of stone benches all round, with the exception of a small space where the stage was erected. In the arena, or pit, there was a fair number of stalls, and at the back, fronting the stage, were a few wooden boxes, perched up over the stone benches, the only access to them being wretched ricketty lad- ders, j)laced outside, in full view of all the sur- rounding houses, which shocked Bochsa much, when he reflected that the pit entrance was right under the ladders, and that Mexican ladies wore no stockings ! At the entrance of the pit, which was shut in by a very filthy, torn, patched curtain, stood a sort of restaurant, alfresco^ where tortiUas^frijoles^ onions ANNA IN MEXICO, 171 and fowls were cooked and served up hot. These dainties, of course, exhaled their savory effluvia in one combined, unwritten smell, all over the house ; and it was no matter of surprise to Bochsa to see the spectators dropping out, one by one, during the performance, and applying themselves to the sub- stantial in preference to the intellectual, especially where the appetite was so continually played upon by the fiction of such odors. He visioned, how- ever, the feelings of Anna, if, during one of her delicious sotto voce cadenzas^ she should happen to hear the sizzling of a frying-pan ! — or the last gasp of a fresh-killed chicken ! /ODios! Bochsa went in to look at the house. Besides, it rained. But Bochsa was no sooner in the house than, on looking up, a series of water-drops assailed his nose, descending from an aperture in the roof. He therefore moved quietly on, towards the stage. Here he was much amazed by the conduct of the prompter, who had a high, sharp, falsetto voice, like a ventriloquist, which talked very fast, with- out stopping or paying the slighest attention to the actors, or having the most remote bearing on tlie scene they were engaged in. Their endeavors to 15 172 iLNNA IN MEXICO. keep lip the race with him were preposterous ; and the result was that, before the act was half through, the prompter had won it, and was eating tortillas and supposed to be going on with the next. The " author" was an excellent actor, himself; and his pretty wife, a perfect love — so Bochsa said, when he came home. The next day Anna received visitors. Thej were very numerous, and among the most interesting were several English ladies, living at a cotton-mill, about two miles distant from the city. Through- out her whole tour, Anna had not felt so delighted. The meeting of her own countrywomen in another hemisphere — and in such a portion of it — and so unexpectedly too, was such a moment of rapture to her, that she could only welcome them as sisters, long parted from, for she heard in their voices the voice of her dear old England, that happy home she had once so deeply loved, and now by absence rendered still more sweet to her — till the tears filled her beaming eyes, and Bochsa, for some cause un- known, left the room. In the course of the day Anna, hearing that Mr, Herz, the pianist, was in the city, and desirous ANNA IN MEXICO. 173 of giving two more concerts there, retarded her own performances for a few days, that it might not disturb or interfere with him — an example of affa- bility and liberal spirit which I take to be enchant- ing, amid the gross selfishness which actuates the _inass of our public professionals, and which recalls to me one of the most disgusting instances of — but no matter. Anna wanted to go out shopping. Bochsa said the pavements were as sharp as pins ! Then Anna would take a carriage. Bochsa sent immediately out, but no carriage was to be had. " Good gracious ! " said Anna, " then what 's to be done?" " Quim sdbe^ my dear ? " said Bochsa, spreadiiig out both hands in despair ; and then gazed in the most profound astonishment at Anna, who had sud- denly burst into an outrageous fit of merriment, and whirling round, screamed out for Don Alva- rado, and ordered him to harness up the family melon immediately ! When Bochsa recovered himself, he endeavored to dissuade Anna from this insane proposition in a strange city ; but she laughed him out of his non- sense in half a minute, and, in less than fifteen 174 - ANNA IN MEXICO. more, the vehicle had been excavated from the dust tliat covered it, and attached to six of the sleekest mules, and was standing at the door for a fashionable drive round town. And, as Bochsa looked out at it — while Anna put on her bonnet — it needed but little philosophy to teach him that nothing in the world could be better than such an unnatural curiosity, moving through the streets, to serve as an advertisement and create a general sensation, especially as Barnum was out of the way and there was no fear of opposition ; and then he began to think very highly of the project, and even smiled. He then straightway summoned Cap- tain Pepe Silva, and requested him to don his best Mexican uniform, crosses and all, and accompany the concern with four of his finest men, while Don Luis Cortes was ordered to stand bolt upright and firm (if possible) on the great platform behind, and to take charge of the chair. Anna enjoyed the victory of her freak to the utmost; and Bochsa positively laughed, too, as they entered the machine together. " Vamos / " said Bochsa. But the thing did n't move. '■^ Vavtos /^^ repeated Bochsa, looking out. But ANNA IN MEXICO. 175 he only perceived that Don Alvarado and his aid, Don Mariano, were furiously flourishing their whips and digging their enormous Quixotean spurs into the bowels of the mules, to no purpose what- ever ; foi" the beasts would n't stir a peg ! " Yamos ! " shouted Bochsa, getting red and hot ; but it was not of the slightest use. " Caramba ! " swore Don Alvarado, for about ten minutes — and then had a sudden thought. He saw precisely how it was. Mules would n't take airings without the rest of their fellows ! — and he told Bochsa so ; at which Bochsa ordered the other six to be instantly brought. They were brought, and harnessed to the rest. " Now then, vamos ! " ventured Bochsa once more ; and, much to his amaze and great glee, they all trotted off together in the most friendly and frisky manner. Yerily, it was high time they were gone — for already had the spectacle amassed a large popu- lace, whose intensity of vision must have blinded them to any peril they might stand in the way of. The scene of animation that followed, as they passed through the streets, was indescribable. 15* 176 ANNA IN MEXICO. Windows were crammed with faces, shop-clerks darted to the doors, people dived from the churches, sentinels shot from their posts, stray mules and donkeys made like mad round corners, some dash- ing into shop-windows and others into convents, and altogether the confusion, wildness and uni- versal dismay were beyond limit. And though the colossal Bochsa and the interesting comtatrice "^\re found by the shopkeepers to be perfectly t©me, they produced a decided impression, which, to this^ day, has remained indelible. "Admirable, for a first go ofi"!" said Anna. " I think it will do," replied "Bochsa. In the contract between Bochsa and the lessee of the theatre, Don Abadon, it vas provided, that not only the Spanish comjjany shoi^d perfoim two pieces every night between Anna's draraatic scenas, but further specified that twenty Spanish comedies should be sent to Bochsa to read^ (ha ! ha !) in order that he might make his own selection! — and that the '■'• author'''' would, moreover, hold on to his rights, to fry tortillas and things at the restaurant ANNA m MEXICO. 177 « at the entrance of the pit, this being a speculation i which he himself had originated, kept u-p and determined to stick to at all hazards. Bochsa did not much relish that clause; he considered the thing very undignified, and the effluvia singularly I offensive, to say nothing of the melancholy idea, that Anna's voice was not sufficiently sweet with- out pancake accompaniments on a griddle. He, nevertheless, yielded, to avoid quarrelling with the author-actor-eating-house man, whom he subse- quently found to be a jiersonage of some import- ance in the place, and at the head of an enterprise for carrying the entire company on mules from town to town, whenever, " by special public de- sire," they thought fit to go. The orchestra was not elaborate — consisting alto- gether of a ^ piano lent to, and to be played by, Bochsa, and a double-stringed quartette, without a violoncello — technically, and very aptly, called a "cell." There were to be no interludes on the harp, as Bochsa's " old lady" had been obliged, at Mexico, to give place on the carriage to beds and gridirons, and it was not probable she could arrive by mules in time for the concerts. 8* 178 ANNA IN MEXICO. Arrangements being thus far completed, Bochsa thought he Avould enquire into the state of the Press — ^which was always a point of moment with him, so proud is he of his charming pupil and so happy when she is justly appreciated. Who can blame him? The Press of Queretaro^ then, was discovered to be limited to two little weekly papers — the one in the pay of the Jesuits^ and therefore very indifferent to the fine arts ; and the other, El Federalisto^ edited by a Dr. Bustamente, physician, who was equally pointed, penetrating and proficient with the lancet and the pen. This was some satis- faction; and the cantatrice was pompously an- nounced therein — albeit the great main design of the paper was that of a medium for one continuous, withering philippic against the Jesuits.* I shall not pause to dwell upon the reception of Anna at Quereta/ro^ or the immense satisfaction of * The power and influence of the Jesuits have since greatly- increased at Qnerctaro, and El Federalisto has been stopped, and the Dr. Bustamente injected into prison. Great Republic, that !— Ed. ANNA IN MEXICO. 179 i the deliglited Bochsa. With a single roulade i she carried the whole place, as with a whirlwind. And the Jesuits owe her a grudge, until this day, for temporarily throwing the city into a complete obliviousness even of their existence. On her bene- , fit night, at the close of the mad scene in " Luda^^ la^rima amorosa and el golem of the Spanish com- pany came forward upon the stage, and, after recit- ing some verses, written for the occasion by Dr. Bustamente, placed on the head of the cantatrice a magnificent crown, profusely ornamented with gold ounces and piastres, the whole affair worth upwards of five hundred dollars. This superb cadeau had been voted to Anna by the principal merchants of Queretaro^ and the famous apothecary's shoj) had been the place where it was all planned; and thither went Bochsa, the following day, and bought a large supply of sbda powders. Meanwhile, several musical amateurs of the little to^vii of Ceilaya (about thirty-three miles from Que- retaro\ who had come that distance to hear Anna sing, entreated the artistes to give one or two con- certs at that place, it being on their route to Leon^ where tliey were expected next to proceed. The 180 ANNA IN MEXICO. expenses, they said, would be paid by the town, in addition to a sum fixed by Anna ; and the matter was settled at once. AMUSEMENTS AT QUEEETAKO, AND DEPARTUKE THEREFROM. Anna had now given five dramatic concerts and had fixed upon a sixth, when Bochsa discovered that the thing was impossible, owing to a strong opposition, in the shape of a grand religious cere- mony — the veil-taking of a rich young senorita^ on which occasion gorgeous displays of firew^orks, brass bands in the streets, banquets everywhere and illu- minations all over the town, were to proclaim the future Hija de Dios^ who devoted the entire bulk of her fortune to the cause of 1>he Jesuits. All was, in consequence, bustle and turmoil throughout the city; and Bochsa, passing near the convent in the morning, saw, in the vestibule of the church, men engaged in dressing up tall wax saints and ma- donnas, with astonished eyes, in the most superb fashion. The saints and madonnas consisted of wooden poles, with cross-pieces and heads on top, 182 ANNA m MEXICO. some with curled auburn hair, and others with fierce black beards, looking exceedingly murder- ous. Some were surmounted with costly jewelled crowns ; and a few, supposed to be females, stood about in corners, like mops, waiting to be dressed. The arms and hands were stitched to the sleeves, the length of the robes rendering mmecessarj the expense of legs, feet and shoes. That this highly respectable company were to assist at the cere- mony, there was no doubt ; but in what capacity Bochsa could not determine. On going home, therefore, he merely related to Aima what he had seen, and the conclusion come to was, that the difference was certainly very great between the dressing of 3£adonnas and Prima Donnas^ or "sticks" of tenori — which latter appellation had, possibly, some hidden reference to a celebrated continental tenor^ who insisted upon being sewn up in his leggings CA^ery evening, after the fashion of rag-babies, being anxious to have a good and tight fit. Professional business, then, being at an end, Anna devoted a couple of days, previous to her departure for Ceilaya^ to leave-taking of her nume- ANNA W MEXICO. 183 roTis friends, witli tlie family melon harnessed up for the purj)ose. Her first visit was to the wife of the Governor of the State — a very charming lady, by the way, educated in the City of Mexico, never having visited Europe, but pof^sessed of the most finished, foreign and delightful manners, and un- barbarized by the custom of sitting at home un- dressed nine parts of the day. Her residence was — as the private dwellings mostly are, in Queretaro ■ — of one story in height, but furnished with exqui- site taste. Tlie parlors, sitting rooms and bed chambers were, as usual, on the ground floor; and the passages to the diiferent apartments were -crowded with rarest flowers, as also the con- servatory in the little square, in the hall, the whole embalming the air with perfumes of the sweetest and most delicious breath. In this instance, the customary '•'- dla disposicion de usted'''' grew to be almost embarrassing. For, "while its sincerity was proved by numerous beau- tiful presents to Anna, she could not have avoided continuing her expressions of admiration at every thing she saw, if she had died for it. And, finally, the charming Senora Berdusco, showing Anna into 16 184 ANNA EST 'MEXICO. two deliglitfully furnished rooms, said with infinite grace, and calling her '-'•Linda Anna'''' — that they were quite at her disposal when she passed again • through Queretaro, on her way to Mexico. Anna then paid a visit to the Prefect of the city, who, with his lovely daughters, had also been excessively polite — and found the main peculiarity of that gentleman's residence to consist in a sort of narrow passage, just within the 'jporte cocliere., where were ranged neat sofas, tables and chairs, and where the Prefect and his family were accus- tomed to receive all their friends and acquaint- ances. Thence, taking a turn, simply leaving cards with the rest, not forgetting to call at the amiable apothecary's — Anna stopped, before re- turning home, and alighted near the market-jDlace, taking a stroll among the little shops and pedlars' carts, making sundry purchases of lilliputian jugs, tea-cups and dolls — not madonnas — the grandiose Norma being much addicted to such simplicity of resource for amusement on holiday afternoons. To be sure, she was not a little startled at receiv- ing, in change for ker money, various pieces of soap^ instead of coppers — and looked at Boclisa, ANNA IN MEXICO. 185 who was equally sm'prised at the facetioiisness of the joke — though he did n't see the necessity of carrying it on to any extreme length of time. He therefore endeavored to explain that they wanted change — not soajp ! — when he was informed with great seriousness that soap was cm-rent money in that part of the Kepublic ; whereat, it instantly oc- curred to him that the phrase, " How are you off for soap ? " — introduced into the United States by the returned Mexican volunteers, had really some pith and meaning in it. They were both, how- ever, still incredulous, when Anna, perceiving a dear little earthen cow, and a love of a little milk- pot, at a shilling a-piece, tendered, with some du- biousness of aspect, four. pieces of soap to the ven- der, and which he pocketed with the utmost dry- ness and sonig froid ! " How very odd ! " said Anna. " Yery funny ! " said Bochsa — and they de- parted. Hard by, stood the convent of San Francisco ; and, as it was the eve of the fete-dsij of that very reverend personage, multitudes were seen entering the spacious gate, attracted by Indians standing on 186 ANNA IN MEXICO. either side of the porch, playing music of a very savage nature on little uncouth flageolets, with obli- gato accompaniment on drums about the size of fig-boxes. Anna took Bochsa into the church, where they found themselves surrounded by gar- lands, festoons, costly red and blue cloth, big wax candles, showers of flags, magnificently attired dolls, and crowds of leperos on their knees, or rather sitting on their calves ; and Bochsa, observ- ing that all eyes were immediately turned from the Santa MaHa to the cantatrice^ and holding all dramatic exhibitions in some reverence, made some remark to that eifect, at which Anna took him out again. On their arrival home, Anna abru^^tly paused at the threshold of the open door, to look in and see what on earth Cortes was about ! — for, instead of cooking the dinner, the man was intently occupied in ironing one of her dresses. Holding Bochsa back, to watch the sequel of this business, she next saw the versatile Cortes twitch up a i:)air of lace ruffles and plait them with the utmost delicacy of touch and taste, and then assiduously j^repare him- self to w^ash out the hertJie of Linda di Chamminiy ANNA IN MEXICO. 187 when a shriek of laughter from Anna caused the poor fellow to jump as if shot, tip over the flat- iron, and stand aghast and petrified. The truth was, Francisca, the maid, had been out all the morning, and Cortes, possessing prominently the bump of millineiy, was unable to resist the im- pulse of his genius. He was highlj complimented by Anna, and Bochsa thought him a very clever chap, and Cortes' face spread into a breadth of grin which lasted seven minutes and forty seconds by the town clock. And a busy and exciting time of it Anna and Bochsa had the following day — the last at Qiiere- taro — to say nothing of the clearing out of the furniture and reloading of the family melon. There were likewise other considerations of the greatest moment to be dwelt upon ; for it so chanced that the road from Qucretaro to Ce'daya enjoyed a reputation which, to Bochsa, was con- siderably heightened by Don Pepe Silva, who related to him the vivid adventure hereunto sub- joined. It appeared that, within that ver}^ week, two clerks belonging to a branch of the diligencia IG* 188 AJSTNA IN MEXICO. administration, and residing at some distance from Queretaro, were in tlie liabit of coming, every six months, to that citj, to pay over to the head of that department the sum of about six hundred dollars. They had of late been warned, by anonymous communications, against the risk of carrying such amounts with them, and advised to procm-e drafts on the city bank. One did so. The other, unmindful of the warning, put his three hundred dollars snugly in his trunk, being fat, lazy and unsuspicious of any evil result. On their way, however, and just at that portion of the road where thick bushes and clumps of ma- gueys and other trees afforded very secure ambush, they found the coach waylaid by three mounted horsemen, who had darted out from some unknown premises, the first very politely levelling his cara- bine at the driver, as a signal to halt, which was promptly obeyed. A second then approached the diligeiicia^ and, with the utmost courtesy, gently opened the door, bowed, greeted the ladies and gentlemen inside, and prayed of them not to de- range themselves or be in the least alarmed. He should be very sorry to inconvenience them, simply I ANNA IN MEXICO. 189 begging that " the fat caballero^ there, in the left corner, would do him the favor to open his black trunk, and have the kindness to bestow upon him the three hundred piastres which he had placed in the folds of his serajye^ quite at the bottom of the said trunk ! " Tlie fat caballero^ equally astonished and appalled, scarce knew whether to obey the summons or not, until the stranger added, with a bland but signifi- cant smile, that he was somewhat pressed for time, and then turned to an agreeable chat with the other passengers, exclaiming at the fresh beauty of the morning, asking the news from the city, and begging the further favor of a match to light his cigar with. By this time, the fat clerk, who had beeii missed from the coach, returned to his place, and deposited in the hands of the ladrone the sum requested ; at which the latter, after counting it, smiled his approval, delayed a moment longer to remark on the beauties of nature and the surround- ing country, and, with a graceful adieu, joined his companions, still exclaiming, as they made off, " Uermosa tierra ! " — " Natura helVisima ! " — ."^« / Jia ! lia ! A Dios ! "—and Don Pepe Silva 190 ANNA IN aiEXICO. could liai'dly finish tho narrative, so choked was he with laughter. Whether Bochsa" thought this a joke to be laugh- ed at or not, he at all events responded, with an appearance of extravagant mirth. " /S'i, SI ! Ha ! ha ! Natura helUs-si-i-ma I Ha ! ha ! Pan I pan ! pan ! encore ! " — after the style of the memorable Count de la Claque, and doubtless with equal sincerity. For, in half an horn* afterwards, his face had assumed an exj^res- sion of meditative depth, from which rose a secret plot to take the gold ounces out of Anna's croAvn, and to practise a ruse de guerre by sending his secretary, forth accompanied by armed men, to parade through the town with sacks full of money, and to enter Anna's banker's, and to be seen imme- diately afterwards with empty bags ! Meanwhile, the Prefect and military Governor complaisantly made offer of a police escort to accompany Anna, together with her o^\m, a few miles out of the city, which she accepted, to the great dissatisfaction of Captain Don Pepe Silva, who looked upon police force and courage with evi- dent contempt, and said with a shrug, that he ANNA IN MEXICO. 191 did n't see tliat his men wanted the assistance of any such trash, who were renowned for loading their carabines with small oignons and frijoles^ and would make off at the first sight of a don- key ! It was settled, however, that the police would serve as scarecrows, if nothing else ; and so, six of them were to be stationed at the gate of the city, to join the equipage at the hour of seven on the following mornino;. The afternoon of that day was employed by Anna and Francisca in packing up ; while Bochsa wrote letters to managers on ahead, with his signa- ture prefixed by the polite Mexican formula — ''Y. A.S. S. Q. S. If. ^."—although he hadn't the most remote notion of its meaning — togethei] with other brief letters to his old friends in the ca2:)ital, which he terminated by sending them all very abruptly to heaven through a final " A D'ios ! " lie then joined Anna, whom he found standing on the balcony, overlooking the Plaza upon a scene which, they both maintain, they never shall forget. The mellow crimson flush of a Mexican sunset 192 AJSTNA m MEXIOO. had faded into evening, and the suiTOunding ar- cades that dimly overarched the brilliantly-lighted shops beneath, were only discernible in the flare of flittering torches and rushlights, borne to and fro by the crowded populace that filled- the square, and gathered about the sparkling fountain in the centre. And the infinite variety of bright hues gleaming from the scrapes and rehozos^ and yellow and red petticoats, and tlie buzz and shouting of hundreds of venders, seated on their heels behind their respective lots of merchandise, each vociferat- ing to drown the commingled voices of all the rest together — heaping into the greatest confusion beds and preserved fruits — mats and melons — Junes and fire-arms^candles and cofiins — tables and turnips — crockery and crucifixes — pans and lace — pulque and linen — boots and meat — and tor- tillas^ tomatoes, onions, sugar-canes, and lemons by the thousands — formed a scene, in the eyes of Anna, of the highest dramatic interest and eftect. And yet, the utmost order prevailed throughout the whole multitude, with scarcely the yellow paletot of a policeman to be seen, when, at length, the sound of a bell was heard, and, as if by magic ANNA EST MEXICO. 193 i or a stroke of paralysis, tlie entire mass fell in- s stantly upon their knees, in breathless silence, their heads bowed nearly to the earth. The cause of tins strange transition was the " Holy Host " on its way to administer to the sick. Presently it ad- vanced. The priest sat in a coach drawn by mules, as in the metropolis, but the attendant choir of hojs, robed in white, were far more numerous, and their slow chanting much more harmonious and concordant. And, as they could not traverse the thronged interior of the square, they divided on either side, and moved along under the arcades, their fiambeaiioc mingling their eiFulgent glare with those around them, while the dark star-sprinkled heavens above and the broad vivid sheen of the full moonlight, shone down with a sacred splendor upon the scene, to which no pen can give the lightest coloring. But soon, the tinkling of the little bell grew fainter and fainter still, and then died away upon the distant evening air; and the busy multitude burst out again in their boisterous shouts, and Anna, without more ado, took Bochsa down into their midst, with his capacious pockets crammed 194: ANNA IN MEXICO. full of soap! And wlien they had walked about a little while, and seen things, Bochsa stopped ; for he had just remarked, among others, and consider- ably to his amaze, a collection of small harps, about a foot and a half high. The temptation to lay hold on one of them was irresistible ; and, taking up the first, he turned it over and looked at it with a smile of great affection ; for it seemed to him like the rising generation of his own "old lady." And then he struck it, and, finding the tone quite good, began to walk into it with all the gusto of olden times, kneeling to its diminutive shape, and ripping from its little bosom spme of the sweetest popular Mexican airs, to the intense delight of the popu- lace, who left their booths and niched him in all round, and cheered him and threw up their hats, as, with the greatest composure, he finished ofi" and bowed himself out of the scrape ; while Anna grew BO high-spirited in her merriment, and bought so many things on the spur of it, that, Avhen they came home, Bochsa was utterly soapless. In the morning, before six o'clock, the family melon and equijiage were en route from Qiieretaro^ and the police fsoolta at the gate, waiting for it. AJSTNA m MEXICO. 195 The chief officer, who came directly to the door of the vehicle, to pay his respects to Anna and Bochsa, was a lean man, with a thin, pale and wrinkled face, big black whiskers and green spec- tacles, his head wrapt in a large black handker- chief, on top of which was perched an umbrageous straw hat, kept in its place by strings under the chin, d la Cortes. His pistols might have passed for small blunderbusses, which were a great satis- faction to look upon ; and his saddle and spurs were of the most costly description, and his gloves of kid. As soon as Don Pepe saw him and his men, he drew up and haughtily ranged his own band on the other side of the road, evincing great contempt, superciliously refusing even a cigar which the chief offered to smoke with him. The chief then went back to the carriage, and entered into conversation ^ith Bochsa, who enjoyed it through the medium of Anna and his secretary. From what the chief said of himself, he had something to do with the entire assortment of wooden crosses, which were very numerous and planted on the road. Here, he had killed two ladrones j there, he had wounded^ three; just beyond, he had, all by himself, made 17 196 AJSTNA IN MEXICO. any number of prisoners, and — " Ca/ramha ! " said he, pushing up his spectacles, and grasping one of his pistols with an energy that made Bochsa start — " Ouerpo de Cristo ! how I should like to« meet the rascals who robbed the diligencia yester- day. But," he added, winking at Bochsa fiercely, "they know mg, Senor cdballero ! ''"' — and then he took from his pocket a telescope and spied all round. " It 's all right, Eccelenza I Tiiui hien ! They know me! There 's no danger." "Whereat he put his telescope away, and grasped his saddle, and brought out from a pouch a large flask of some- thing, and took a long drink. Immediately upon this, the police escolta joined the equipage, and the whole together proceeded as far as the bridge, which formed the limit of the most dangerous passes, and there the chief and his men took leave of the party, to the great glee of Don Pepe Silva — Anna throwing to them a few piastres, which they evidently expected, and pocket- ed accordingly. CEILAYA— VALLE DE SANTIAGO. After a jom*ney of a few hours the party entered Ceilm/a^ where they were received and welcomed by a number of caballeros^ who turned out to be those under whose auspices Anna had been en- gaged, and the 25th and 27th of October were im- mediately agreed upon for the two concerts she had consented to give. These performances were to take place in a large hall which had served as a custom house de-pot^ and was much dilapidated ; though, for the present occasion, it was to be whitewashed, carpetted, and a stage erected, with a dressing-room built up be- hind expressly for the renowned cantatrice. The country towns of Mexico are, like the mesons on the road, precisely of the same pattern ; so much so, that were any person or persons, acquainted with them, to be conducted blindfold into the mid- 198 ANNA IN SIEXICO. die of one, and the bandage removed, they miglit puzzle their wits for a month to find out in which one they really stood. Take a large square, with trees and gaudily-painted stone seats d discre- tion^ one fountain in the middle, garnished all round with deep arcades, and the whole crowded every night with venders, pedlars and beggars — add to this, lots of confectioners, lejperos scattered lazily on the ground at every corner, tortilla-\>oo\\i^^ pulque-hare, jfHjole-restawrants, and churches — and this is the standard receipt by which all Mexican towns seem to be manufactured ; and, odd to affirm, the relative positions of all the ingredients are quite the same in every one of them. As for the national costumes, those of the lower classes, both in town and country, much resemble each other, w^ith per- haps a slight difference in the women's rehozos and gowns. In the north, \kiQ jacquettes of the men, as well as the broad open trowsers, are usually made of leather, having the appearance of embossed mo- rocco, and painted green, red, or yellow. These garments are found ready made and look exceed- ingly neat and original. On the day after her arrival, Anna received at '-. ANNA IN MEXICO. 199^ her meson various visitors and lots of bouquets. Among the former who entered the room which had been dignified by the name of " receiving sa- loon" — or the presence-chamber of the queen of Bong, came one character whose figure, conversation and calling caused her to note him down somewhat in detail. He had a round womanish white face, without whiskers or mustachios, and, in fact, seem- ingly without any ground for a beard at all. His head was one profuse mass of curly flaxen hair, which he wore in the mop style. His legs were set off with flesh-qplored silk tights, d la Monplaisir^ and Hessian boots, ornamented with gold tassels ; his body being tightly girt in a very brief cream- colored j?a?(?^o^, while a small odd round hat capped the climax of this singular individual's toilette. Bowing repeatedly, and with much grace, to Anna and Bochsa, he said he had frequently had the pleasure of hearing the enchanting ^?'^m<^ donna in Kew-York — that he himself was the celebrated Fire-king^ and nobody else — and that, although an American, he had travelled for years in Mexico, and came to offer his friendly services to the famous artistes before him, as well as to ascertain what day 17* 200 AJSTNA IN MEXICO. had been fixed upon for Anna's " show," since he would not, for anything in the world, have his own clash with hers, adding very courteously, that, be- tween public professionals of all kinds, cordial un- derstanding should invariably be studied. " Fire-king ?" said Bochsa perplexedly, " Fire- king?" And then looked round, seeming utterly at a loss for its meaning. " Yes, my good sir," replied his salamandrine majesty, " I am the Fire-king. The fiercest fire, Lady Anna, is my only atmosphere for comfort. Out of an oven, I am out of my element, and be- come lost, chill and miserable. The oven, madam, at about 300°, is my summer residence, where, it is needless to say, I am able to light my cigars with- out the slightest trouble, though they mostly light themselves, without giving me the trouble at all." " Aha ! I see, my dear fire-man — ^king, I mean," said Bochsa, politely. " I see your majesty is a wit as well as a clever artist. But — excuse me — how can you manage to live in a hot fire with such a head of hair ? A little bit of humbug, eh ? Ha ! ha ! Come, tell us !" " Humbug, my dear sir," replied the Fire-king, 1 ANNA IN aiEXICO. 201 philosophically, " humbug is your only element i which, combined with talent, can make it go ahead and keep the impulse alive. This rare combination is vulgarly termed tact ; and the eminent degree to which my very dear and respected compatriot, ; Barnum, possesses it, is the great aim, pur^^ose, ob- ject and design of my life. Barnum, sir, is the man ! Barnum is my guide, my model. Like Barnum, I began with nothing. He has made a fortune — there, I confess, we differ ; nor can Bar- num's head equal mine in point of tightness of curl, and there is an immense deal in that, if the world only knew it ! Allow me. Lady Anna, to offer you a box for my spectacle this evening ; and if you will further promise to accept a tender fowl which I shall take with me into the oven — ten minutes after, the bird and your humble servant will emerge therefrom, the former roasted and the latter cool as a cucumber ! l*s"ow, is it not a marvellous faculty — ^that of a man who can stand, coolly and collect edly, in the midst of a blazing fire, watch attentive- ly the cooking of his own dinner — no deception — no meat too much overdone or underdone — why, how far behind the age does he leave all the best 9* 202 ANNA IN MEXICO. cooks in the world ! Excuse my ardent enthusi- asm, Maestro^ but I cannot speak fervently of my art without a little fire on my tongue. For the present, adieu — as it is rather chilly here" — and he buttoned up his j?«Ze^^ to the chin, adding — "the custom, my dear sir,, of living in fire renders one ex- tremely uncomfortable when warmed only hy the Sim. ! Sa ! ha ! You see I am a true American — merry, jolly, original and all that sort o' thing ! So, adieu ! Oo ahead 's the word ! "Where there 's no fire, there 's no smoke !" And with this final, proverbial, philosophical and expressive moral point, the Fire-king blazed out of the room and dis- appeared. ]^o sooner had this extraordinary personage quitted the presence of Anna and Bochsa, than in came another, who announced himself as the " king's companion," and an American, begging permission to introduce a musical amateur who waited below. Anna, prepared for a scientific discussion on her pet art, readily consented, and accompanied Bochsa to the door for the purpose of receiving the visitor. Presently, a slight clatter was heard on the staira, and next, a little milk- AifNA IN MEXICO. 203 white pony was seen coming up with a nimble but matter-of-fact steadiness, which caused the artistes to fall back two steps in their profoimd astonish- ment. Arrived at the top, the interesting little brute bowed to Anna and entered. He then took a prominent part in the conversation which follow- ed, such as being asked by his master who was the first singer in the world, at which he went and gently rubbed his head up against Anna's shoulder. He was then desired to inform the company what instrument it was, among numerous others named by his master, on which Don Carlos Bochsa was so eminent, and, at the word, " Harp" gave three punches with his foot on the floor, within disagree- able proximity of Bochsa's toe. And, finally, being told to make reverence to the lady who had plenty of " soap," he immediately arose and planted his two feet on a chair and neighed at Anna with the wildest looseness ! " Did you ever !" said Anna. " ISTever !" said Bochsa. " Is n't it wonderful !" " Yery clever !" said Bochsa. " Remarkably funny !" GETTING UP THE CONCEKT. As is usually the case with committees of gentlemen, appointed to arrange matters with " promptness and despatch," the preparations to transform the great-lumber hall into a concert-room in time for the next day had not been attended to in any one particular, the ample allowance of days given them for the purjDOse having probably been consumed in confused discussions as to how it was best to hegin at them, Bochsa, learning this, begged the committee to permit his own secretary to take the whole business immediately in hand ; and thus, they having wisely consented, the room was ready in due season. In the interim, Bochsa had been invited by one of the first musical amateurs to hear, at his own residence, the Philharmonic full band which was to accompany Anna's scenas. Bochisa's experi- AJSJNA IN aCEXICO. 205 j ence, however, had taught him not to put too much faith in " full bands," particularly in country towns ; and, although he could not well refuse the invitation, he was vividly haunted with the certainty that Anna's orchestra was to consist of a piano and a stringed quartetto at the very utmost. In this he was disappointed ; for he found the philharmonic band composed, not only of reqidntos^ or picolo clarionettes, but several ordinary clarionettes, Ottavinos^ trompas^ bugles, three or four trombones, as many ophecleides, and two violins, whose part it was to play a sort of tremolo accompaniment on the lower tones. It was a military orchestra, in fact, and the music — aiTanged from popular Italian operas — all scored for wind instruments, wherein the shrill requinto took up the prima donna parts in the soprani cavatinas. "What the violins were about there was the chief mystery ; although, con- sidering the general unsatisfactory state of music in Mexico, the whole together was not bad, Bochsa, notwithstanding, deemed it necessary to state to the committee that Anna's scenas could not possi- bly be given with proper effect, without the full complement of stringed instruments. The commit- 206 AN^STA IN MEXICO. tee stared — insisting that the effect of trombones and ophecleides would be positively splendid in conjunction with the voice of the gi'eat cantatrioe, and that the professors could read off any piece at sight. Bochsa, not wishing to offend the gentlemen, who — apart from their opinion of the band — were very agreeable, merely said that it would perhaps be better to decide the point at a full rehearsal in the hall, and, on taking leave, privately requested his secretary to procure a good square piano, and to have it placed, at an early hour, close to the dramatic platform. A promos — \ should here state that the secretary just mentioned was not the same Bochsa brought from Havana. He was a yoimg Frenchman, of considerable ability, who had studied medicine with the intention of making it his profession. He was, moreover, a poet, a good pianist and a com- poser of some talent, and spoke and wrote Spanish perfectly, travelling, for the present, to see and learn the world. Being of a jocose turn of mind, he fm-thermore proved to Bochsa that his knowledge of medicine and capability to write prescriptions often served him largely in concluding good bar- ANNA IN MEXICO. 207 gains for Madame Anna's interests and in putting down extravagant bills to the lowest figure. If lie found an editor ill^ lie would secure his gratitude at once by some infallible cure. If he found a manager loell., he would plunge him immediately into a similar debt of obligation by a hint at the cholera and giving him a sure preventive ; while his extensive information on the science of Hippocrates secured to him an immense influence over everybody with whom Anna and her maes- tro were thrown in contact, including the apothe- caries, who were, of course, excessively partial and polite to him. Tickets for both concerts were by this time nearly all sold by the Ceilayan committee, and at enor- mous prices. As Bochsa had anticipated, however, the philharmonic band proved unfit accompani- ments for Anna's Tajicredi^ or anything else ; and, in consequence, the piano alone, played by himself, was substituted on both evenings, and the aflTair went off with the usual brilliant eclat^ creating an excitement never before dreamed of in that quiet and remote corner of the world. At the end of the last concert, a deputation of 18 208 AJSTNA IN MEXICO. gentlemen from the small town of Yalle de Sant- iago — twenty-five miles from Ceilaya and rather out of the public road — came in and begged that Anna and her little colony would at least consent to give one performance there on the succeeding day, add- ing, that their journey to Leon would be only re- tarded a few hours, and that there would be no risk, as all expenses would be secured and four hundred piastres or more given by the inhabitants. Bochsa consented ; and early the next morning, the artistes received all sorts of congratulations and good wishes from the whole population of Ceilaya^ shook hands with the Fire-king, and were on their way, leaving him excessively delighted at now being the sole lion of the place. All were in the highest pos- sible spirits as the great family melon rolled on ; for, so comfortably had everything been arranged, that they might have thought themselves in Eu- rope, but for some horrid and dislocating souhrer sauts which now and then bounced them into a frightful sense of Mexican ground. The cause, too, of the body of the vehicle being perched up at such a height from the earth — which had always been a puzzle to Anna — had shortly an opportunity of ex- ANNA IN MEXICO. 209 plaining itself; for, abont half way on, Don Alva- rado, stopi^ing the concern, came ronnd to inform the travellers, that close ahead there was a large river to cross, called El Guaje^ three or four feet deep, and that, as there was no bridge, ferry or boat of any kind, the party mnst remain in the coach, to be carried over in it, while the mules and horses would swim for themselves. There was no danger, he said, for la Senorita Anna^ on account of the elevation of the coach ; but that all the lug- gage, behind, before and in the great rope net un- derneath, servants and all included, must be taken out and borne across the river on the heads of naked Indians ! " What 's that !" cried Anna, in amaze. " My maid on the head of a naked — . Bochsa, let her come in here !" And she came. Now, the deputation from the Yalle Santiago had represented this journey as a mere pleasure excur- sion of a few hours, skipping over the river as a matter not worth mentioning. In consequence, Bochsa began to fume fearfuMy, alighted and scowled at the water, and then glared over to the other side, which seemed to him a very great way 210 ANNA IN MEXICO. off. In despair, he blew up his secretary for not knowing what the road was, and then expressed his disgust to Anna that the government should thus jeoj)ardize the lives of strangers, as though it looked upon them as mere goujeons ! * — and then demanded of Alvarado if there was no other possi- ble road ? " l^aj, Seno7' caballero^^'' responded the other, rolling up his trowsers, in common with the other men, high above his knees, " not for a carriage. There is one for horsemen and arrieros^ taking the bed of the river through the fields ; but no carriage can pass there." Whereupon, Bochsa turned off with a groan, and thought he would ascertain the depth of the river by one of the tallest Indians, who at once debarrassed himself of the least bit of covering in the world, and, seizing some luggage, bore it rapidly across on his head, the water reach- ing to his breast ; while Don Pepe Silva, springing erect- on h^ horse, like a circus-rider, passed the flood with much grace, followed close by the car- * A little fish— frequently used (in French) to signify a dupe. — Ed. ^i JlNNA in MEXICO. 211 riage, containing tlie artistes^ secretary and maid, and which, thanks to its taUness and buorancy, navigated the swollen stream, very comfortably and drily landing the inmates on the other side. Next, Cortes — who had previonsly begged to deposit his eword and jacquette in the coach — spnrred up his steed, to pnt fire in him, and roused him to the transit ; and, so gaily went they in together that Don Luis' elbows flapped up and down like wings, in sheer exultation at his security. Scarce, how- ever, had they reached the mid-water, wlien the little beast began to plunge and kick in the most frightful manner. But Cortes, priding himself on his horsemanship, stuck to the animal as though he were nailed on, and finally came out, drenclied, but triumphant. In about an hour, the whole, more or less dripping, had passed over, Don Alvarado giv- ing to the Indians a few piastres^ to which Anna added an ounce of gold, for the fidelity and energy with which they- had achieved their task. They were tall, strong, bronzed men, who lived in miser- able huts hard by, and without any appearance of being lazy or indolent like the rest of the Mexi- cans. It was, therefore, quite a novelty to look upon them. jg » 212 ' ANNA IN MEXICO. While the coach was reloaded, and the men were drying themselves in the sun, which seemed to kindle up at the prospect of so arduous an under- taking, Anna took . Bochsa for a stroll about the adjacent grounds. It was a beautiful spot, a sort of wild forest, abounding in the grateful maguey and tunes,) and forming a delicious shade from the noon-day heat. Then, from the summit of a little hill, Anna could see that pretty, but very disagree- able stream, flowing serpent-like through the broad fields, and glittering like silver beneath the burn- ing heavens. The rural enchantment of the scene, and the pure Mexican air, soon put Bochsa in his usual good temper again, and, all things prepared, the party resumed their journey quite peacefully, until, about six miles from the Yalle Santiago^ Don Pepe Silva and two of his men were seen to start off sud- denly, and gallop towards a turn of the road, some twenty yards ahead. What tliis could mean, Bochsa stared out to discover ; but, being near- sighted, he could only perceive a dark moving mass enveloped in a cloud of dust ! " Good gracious !" thought Bochsa, as the idea of ladrones now struck him forcibly — and then turned to the secretary. ANNA IN MEXICO. 213 who was deeply engaged in reading a ntiisical work — '"''Allons! Allans ! inon cher — mte! — en avant I — les 'jpistolets P'' At the word '-'- instolets T — Anna, who was embroidering an elegant little slip- per for her sister, droi3ped her needle, grasped the little revolver in her apron-pocket, whipped it out and cocked it with great resolution. At the same instant, Don Pepe Silva and his men were seen re- turning at full speed, announcing that a numerous cavalcade,' from the Yalle Santiago^ were hard upon them, with a magnificent carriage and four " that the world's nightingale and her maestro might be conveyed into their town with all due honors !" Bochsa was thunderstruck ! — while Anna burst into a rich musical laugh at the absurdity of his demand for " pistols !" And now the cavalcade advanced, and one of the gentlemen, nominated spokesman, addressed Anna in a neat Spanish speech, expressing their delight at the honor she was conferring upon them, at which Anna returned thanks in her pretty, broken accents of their lan- guage, which so enraptured the cdballeros^ that they all vociferated with one accord " Yiva Anna ! Viva Bochsa / Jfuy hien, muy Men ! Viva ! 214 ANNA IN MEXICO. viva /" And, immediately upon this, the carriage ap23roaclied, drawn by four beautiful bays, and driven by a spruce coachman on the box, and led by a postillion. This was followed by various others, containing ladies, who graciously, in turn, presented Anna with costly bouquets. And there- with, the artistes got out and left the great family melon in charge of the secretary, to get along as best it could ; while the whole affair went off brilli- antly and amid the plaudits of all. The road was found to be exceedingly good, principally of small gravel, and as straight as a rib- bon — much like those in England. In fact, Anna was informed by a gentleman, who had taken an inside place with the party, that the road was made and kept in such order, as was unknown in any other part of Mexico, by the principal mer- chants and residents of the Yalle de Santiago, through their own private purses ; and this for their own special comfort rather than to serve the public, as their town lay far out of the way of any diligen- cias or public conveyance. In less than an hour they reached their destina- tion, where Anna was immediately conducted to a ANNA IN MEXICO. 215 large private house prepared by the dilettanti for her reception, and at their own expense. Being assured that the artistes were highly pleased with this arrangement, they next established Don Luis Cortes in a well-aj^pointed kitchen, and then retired. Soon after this the secretary, melon, luggage, etc., came uj) ; and all, once more together, concluded that they might make themselves very comfortable — apart from the presence of numerous large and very hideous scor]3ions which Bochsa observed to be sticking about on the ceiling, as if ready at any moment to pounce down on tables or beds, whei'ever they supposed the best feed might be obtained with the least trouble. After dinner, several visitors having come to pay their respects, the bustling maestro went out with one or two of them to the houses of the principal amateurs of the town, and was not a little astonish- ed to find there divers Chickering and Stoddart piano-fortes, whereon were strewn, not only various vocal scores of our best operatic composers, but some of the works of Handel and Haydn, and many other musical luxuries which he had not been able to find in the metropolis, or, indeed, in any of the states he had as yet visited. 216 ANNA IN MEXICO. The performers of the band were all amateurs, but very good — particularly the '"'' jpiston^'' Like that of Ceilaya, it consisted of requintos^ clario- nettes, trombones, ophecleides, and two violins, with one double-bass which seemed to our maestro like the yolk of an egg thrown into a sauce to bind and unite its various ingredients. They were not, how- ever, to accompany Anna, but simply to play as interludes between her songs. The room selected for the cantatfrice's concert was a public school,* where the long, hard- worn and slippery benches of the scholars were to serve the audience. Anna herself was to occupy the small elevated platform at the farther end, whence the teacher was accustomed to give forth his daily lectures. Beyond this, a little recess had been arranged for her, and provided with a handsome toilette, arm-chair, carpet and other comforts, besides candelabras. As no chandelier could be obtained, for the pur- pose of lighting up the room satisfactorily, it was * Here, again, the little Voile de Santiago seems to have the advantage of civilization over the great city of Mexico. — Ep- ANNA m MEXICO. 217 decided that the small lamps, perched on little foiir- foot posts at either end of the benches, should be used to the best advantage. These lamjDS served for evening lectures ; and, as they^ were not larger than tumblers, and only gave out a small circle of light each, limiting it to a kind of ghastly glare upon the faces in their vicinity, this perspective of heads dwindling off into the distance and utter darkness beyond, imparted a very novel aspect to the audience ; while, by way of contrast, a profusion of wax candles and candelabras graced the platform where Anna came forth to sing, beaming in her jewels and some dozen or fourteen bracelets (the gifts of emperors and queens) giving her the appearance of some pet Mexican Madonna. This illusion, moreover, was heightened by the smart ex- plosions of rockets and crackers, and the lighted torches in the streets — the usual paraphernalia of religious ceremonies — all which had been cialled into requisition on this most memorable occasion. And then her singing, pervading the air like the voices of seraphim, so completed the charm, that the listeners lent their ears to it with an almost pious fervor and devotion. 218 AUNA m MEXICO. When tlie first part of the entertainment had concluded, the hidies rushed about Anna, and the gentlemen about Bochsa, who was seated at the piano, in the greatest anxiety for them to repeat the concert. This, however, was impossible; but she sang several little extra niorceaux, to keep them quiet, making in all about fifteen pieces that evening, though, so remarkable is her ease of execution, the last note came forth as clear and effortless as the first. The secret of this faculty, in fact, lies in her studiously avoiding that unpleasant defect in other ^hne donne — that of sudden screams on high notes (which are not only harsh, but abuse the vocal powers and fatigue them to no purpose), leaving the other notes to scramble for themselves and get out of the scrape as they can. The next morning, after a promise to visit again this little musical colony on their return towards Mexico, the party resumed their journey, and, after four days' travelling, came to the end of it without accident. LEON. Arrived m good condition at the city of Leori^ Anna and party were established in a meson a little more spacious than the j)receding one, whereupon, Bochsa, accomj^anied by his secretary, paid a visit to Anna's banker, a gentleman of great wealth, who had several shops where were respec- tively sold liquors, dry goods, boots, and a variety of other things. They then went round to the best-looking apothecary's shoj) in town, where, thanks to a few Latin compliments and medico- technical phrases pronounced by the secretary with a very profound look and great assurance, both visitors were most cordially received. So far as the theatre was concerned, Bochsa had learned that there was none in the place, other * About 303 miles from the metropolis. — Ed. 19 220 ANNA IN MEXICO. than a regular cock-fighting arena; and, being a little tired of that style of thing for a temple of Melpomene and Thalia^ he asked the apothecary (the secretary having jumped over the comiter to aid him in the manufacture of some potent mixture) if there was any large room to be had. To which the artist in rhubarb answered, that the public school might possibly be obtained; so that Bochsa and secretary went immediately thither. It was a large low building, and, on approaching it our maestro was struck by a fearful clamor of some hundred boys, shouting within, all together, at the highest pitch of their voice. This was the Lancas- terian system — so the secretary told Bochsa, who sagely replied, that he would recommend it to senators on his return, to save time in case of long speeches. But just at this moment, the school door opened, and a naked boy rushed out, followed by a number of others similarly dressed, which astonished the Tnaestro considerably. At this, the boy came uj) and inquired if the cahalleros wanted to see the master and his wife ! — the which honor Bochsa politel^^ declined, not desiring to indulge himself in the sight of any modern Adams and A3TNA IN MEXICO. 221 Eves, and quietly turned his back on the Mexican cherub, saying with much dryness to his secretary, that he hoped the young gentlemen would change their costumes if they came to Anna's concert, as it was strictly a dress concert; upon this the subject was cut short, and the idea of the school-room totally abandoned. ISTo resource, then, was left but the cock-fighting arena, at least for one night ; and the lady-proprie- tress of the arena, moreover, expected it, and so the contract was instantly written and signed. One clause in the contract especially staggered Bochsa ; for it stipulated that he should pay the sum specified for the use of the cock-pit in " genuine Mexican piastres," and not in pieces of soap, or in copper money, or cigars, ov poultry alive or dead ! But, as Bochsa had not the most remote idea of doing anything of the sort, he let the proviso go for what it was M^orth, rather pitying the proprietor, in the supposition that he had been imposed upon by some such singular deposits of nature and art on previous occasions. The secretary, meanwhile, was rather delighted to find that the only bill-printer in Leon^ a very 222 AJ^fNA m Mexico. mean and sordid man, was ill ; in consequence of which he expressed his opinion that, if this esta- blisher of characters had any intention to Meed the artists, Tie would take especial care to reciprocate by means of an additional leech for every cent over-charged. The result, therefore, realized his most sanguine expectations. In the afternoon, Anna visited the arena, which was crowded with men of the lower classes, carrying under their arms divers fierce-looking cocks, ready for the contest. The screeching of the birds, and shouting of the Leperos were deafening, and the smoke insufferable. In no part of Mexico is cock- gambling so universal as at this same Leon, Morn- ing, afternoon and evening, the arena is crammed with these lively exhibitions, and Anna found that she was obliged to postpone her concert, on account of a fight coming off between two very distinguished and highly-estimated cocks, of the most animated breed. The furniture of the arena consisted of six rows of stone gradins all around ; in addition to which the arena itself was to be filled, on Anna's night, with other seats, such could be provided. Those ANNA m MEXICO. portions of the building which were open to the air were to be covered with mats and canvass. As for the lighting, Bochsa was informed that, for four piastres, he could have a sufficient number of pitch torches for the purpose, to be stuck on the small stage erected in front, and a quantity of earthen saucers filled with grease or oil with huge wicks plunged into them, and which might be placed along on the highest gradin. The idea savored not much of the agreeable to our maestro^ who subse- quently realized that burning fat was not incense, and that such " ofience is rank and smells to heaven !" Bochsa and his piano were to be placed in a small box where usually sat, in their sapient dig- nity, the umpires of cock-fighting. The concert went off admirably, and the receipts from 1020 persons on the gradins^ at a half a dollar each, and 195 more in the arena, at one dollar and a half each, was a prospect at which Anna certain- ly felt extremely satisfied. But it so chanced that, at the termination of the performance, Bochsa's eyes were very suddenly opened to an amazing width by the gradin money-takers, who brought 19* 224 ANNA IN MEXICO. Lim, m acco'wnt^ from the treasury^ countless pieces of yellow soap, innumerable cigars and two figJiting cocks alive and ready 1 Boclisa remonstrated, but in vain. It was wliat they usually received, they said, as small 'money^ and endeavored to prove to the infuriated maestro that, if the soap was weighed and the cigars called by the name of Anita^ he would realize an immense profit by them! — and quieted him by a glowing description of the musi- cal taste of a family who, to hear the great prima donna had positively parted with two of the most celebrated fighting cocks in the town for six gradin tickets. Bochsa, materially calmed down by this diplo- matic bit of flattery, liberally paid the money-taker for his services, a la Mexicaine^ with twelve pieces of soap and a huge bundle of cigars, and had the cocks cooked for a supper, to treat his escort with. It was some source of gratification, though, to feel that the audience had been a jam. In fact, a vender of water-melons, lemons, tunes^ and sugar- canes had jjaid to Bochsa's secretary twelve piastres for the right to sell his fruits' in the arena ANNA IN MEXICO. 225 on tliat eventful niglit, besides sending to the cantatrice a large supply of lemon-ices ; and when it is considered that the above luxuries sell at Leon for almost nothing, the profit over and above the twelve piastres, and with wliich the man seemed perfectly satisfied, argues considerably in favor of the amount of business he got through with. The next day was mainly spent in packing up again, and taking leave of the authorities and others who had visited Anna, and in rambling about town on foot. Just as the artists were about to start for the latter recreation, a very smart-look- ing gentleman, mounted on a fine chestnut horse, entered the court-yard of the meson^ and, perceiv- ing them under the arcades, dismounted with a gracious air, exclaming, " Dear madame ! — glad to see you again ! Mr. Bochsa, I guess it 's unnecessary to ask how you are, for you look charmingly!" Anna was the first who suddenly recognized in the assailant the identical Fire-king they had left at Ceilaya', though the whole appearance of the man had undergone a complete metamorphose ; for, instead of the fiesh-colored tights, he now wore 10* 226 AUNA IN MEXICO. fashionable gray pants, of quite a distmgue cut, ornamented with elegant silver buttons, like those of the riding gentlemen of the metropolis. His hluQJacquette was of unexceptionable fit and mate- rial, his linen like snow, his black cravat adjusted with the best taste, his profuse cm*lj flaxen hair rolled well up under a broad white somhrero of the finest beaver, and altogether he was a pattern of a cahallero of the very fii'st — to say nothing of his saddle, upon which was lavished the richest em- broidery. " Helloa !" said Bochsa. " Come in," and they went into Anna's parlor. " But how is it that you are here so soon ? I thought your majesty would have stayed longer at Ceilaya^ levying, as kings generally do, heavy impositions upon the people." " My very dear sir," replied the oven-star, spread- ing out his hands with a shrug, " I thought, of course, I should make something out of them. But it was no go ! They 've no more taste than show-monkeys, and no more mind to appreciate the wonders of fiery entertainments and the marvels of educated powers, than just so many savages ! Why, sir, when I came out fresh and blooming from the oven, ANNA IN MEXICO. 227 the other day, and made my bow to the audience, I thought I was in a nest of rattle-snakes, for the hisses ! The brutes had the audacity, sir, to say it was all humbug ! — and insisted on my going back into the red-hot oven for twenty minutes longer, while they watched it all round, like cats round a rat-hole ! Oh, my dear sir ! — how different is the taste and genius of my own free and native country. America ! land of "Washington and Barnum ! — hail, hail forever ! Only get up an excitement tJiere^ no matter what for, and Yankee blood is right up for a dive into the very middle of it ! — and applause showering in thunder, whether the audience under- stood it or not ! Let 'em but smell a little of the almighty humbug, by jingo, sir — and they go into it with a looseness that becomes absolutely over- whelming ! To return to the subject, then, it was very evident I was not understood or appreciated by these barbarians at Ceilaya y and, being at a pretty considerable expense for wood and raw meat without chance of profit, I left the miserable and ignorant heathens in disgust. I have some property in the state of Leon^ and my wife and children living in a very comfortable house in this 228 ANNA IN MEXICO. same city. So I decided to come home and rusti- cate a little, before going to do business at the fair of San Juan de los Lagos. Yes sir — ' home, sweet home !' — you know the ballad— another humbug," by the way — words stolen from an Irishman, and the music a Sicilian melody. But no matter ; it 's all the same. It all goes down !" " I was not aware that you were married," said Anna, recovering from a fit of laughter. " Oh, madam — true. I seldom mention that trifle, except in confidence ; for married men, en- gaged in professional life, never get along half so well as those who have no better half to look after them. Besides, we want the ladies — is it not so, maestro" — turning to Bochsa — " I say we want the ladies ! They are necessary to our existence ; and, without the personal interest of the dear creatures we should be obliged to shut up shop. Therefore," added the fire-king, taking an ofi'-hand survey of himself, " if we wish to please the sex, we must avow ourselves single — another little bit of humbug, which, I am proud to say, has usually succeeded in tempting the ladies to patronize my fii-e. Pardon me, fair cantatrice — I have nearly ANNA IN MEXICO. 229 forgotteii, in your presence, the principal object of mj visit. The road to Guadalajara, for a few miles after leaving Leon, is always more or less danger- ous about this time of the year, as ladrones, who are said to be countenanced by some influential men of this city, infest it in great numbers, ex- pecting rich booty from the immense quantity of Mexican and foreign merchants who go to the celebrated fair of Sa/n Juan de los Lagos^^ which will open in a few days. So I come to put " a la disposicion de usted'''' (not a la Mexicaine, but seriously^ an extra escort, consisting of my part- ner, the master and instructor of my musical pony, and of half a dozen of our circus-men, just arrived, brave, stout fellows, much applauded in Mexico by a discerning public, in a remarkable fight I had arranged for them in a grand equesti'ian panto- mime." * The annual fair of San Juan de los Lagos, a small town on the road to Guadalajara, is the most extensive one in the whole republic, and attended not only by merchants from all parts of the country, but likewise by many others from North America, Cuba, France and England. It lies 69 miles from Leon, and 118 from Guadalajara, the capital of the state of Jtlisco. — Ed. 230 ANNA m MEXICO. To tMs, Boclisa replied that lie was very mucli obliged to the fire-king, but added, that he had al- ready been informed of the nnsafe condition of the road, and intended to ask the Prefect and Mili- tary Commandant for a few mounted men in ad- dition to his own. That he would be happy to accept his offer, in case he could not thus be ac- commodated — which he somewhat feared, as many of the troops had been sent already to San Juan, and to different parts of the state on ac- count of certain pending disturbances. His secretary, however, would call and let him know in the evening, as their departure was fixed upon for the morrow morning. The fire-king hereupon expressed himself ex- tremely sorry that he could not be of the party, in- asmuch as the freshness of the morning air did n't suit his temperament ; and therewith, deeply im- pressing upon Bochsa the fact that he was at pre- sent engaged in a chemical process, the result whereof was going to astound the entire world, he bade farewell to him, and a theatrical adieu to Anna, mounted his chestnut, and vanished ! The city of Zeon was found to be one of third rate importance, but boasting many rich merchants. ANNA m MEXICO. 231 Its miniature Paseo^ newly completed, is very pretty, and numerous elegant carriages, of foreign construction, may be seen there every Sunday after- noon. The convents and churches are superb ; and the new building, occupying an entire side of the great Plaza, and designed for a religious seminary, will be, ~when finished, of the finest description. Then, the arcades of the Plaza are by no means •uninteresting; and, on the pavement underneath them, may be seen ready-made male costumes, in wrought leather, of every color and curious stamp, and rich saddles for both sexes. One of these, beatifuUy embroidered in gold, silver and silk, was purchased by Anna, for the sum of twelve piastres. Then there were pedlars, carrying about, for sale, costly spurs, and whips, and pistols, and carabines, and luscious preserved fruits and pieces of cloth, all about the town, and with whom, to- wards evening, when they begin to grow a little tired, some very good bargains can be made. As for the shops, they contain, as is usually found, nothing but foreign goods, brought, contraband, from the port of Mazatlan. But what amused Anna to some degree of astonishment, was an ex- 20 232 ANNA m MEXICO. traordinary fashion of gentlemen on horseback, going into the shops without dismounting, and the very impudent swarms of beggars, who, following her closely, entered with herself, and seated them- selves quietly down there, without the shop-keep- ers being able to get them out by force or persua- sion. But it was now time to see about the extra escort ; and, as Bochsa had anticipated, Prefect and Military Commandant, to their infinite regret, were obliged to inform him that Leon was at that moment, and would continue to be for two days to come, without a solitary soldier, or even a police- man. So that, not being able to delay their jour- ney to Guadalajara^ which would consume a space of selVen days at the least, the artists de- cided at once upon the fire-king's retinue. How Don Pepe SUva and his men would relish this arrangement was the next thing to be con- sidered. "What would they say — they who had treated the Queretaro police-force with such con- tempt — at now being mixed up with circus war- riors and professed clowns. But there was no alternative. Prudence exacted the precaution. ANNA IN MEXICO. 233 Our Maestro^ therefore, gave a few piastres to his secretary to present to Don Pepe, with an injunc- tion to make him well understand that Madam Anna had not the least doubt as to his com'age and valor — O, no ! — but that, judging from what had been reported in the town, the companionship of a few additional friends, for a short distance, would not be amiss. At which, Don Pepe Silva pocketed the money with a smile of peculiar dis- dain, repeating several times — " muy hien ! muy ■Men! — Senor Secretario ! '''' money certainly is magic, and will do all sorts of earthly impossi- bilities — especially in Mexico ! For example — a foreigner, having a claim against the Mexican Government for a veiy large sum of money, visited the Minister of Finance to ascertain when the debt would be settled, and whether it could not be done within a few days. The minister instantly conjured up numerous diffi- culties, apparently insurmountable, convincing the gentleman that the thing was entirely " impos- sible." During the conversation, however, he observed that the minister repeatedly, and with a mysteiious emphasis, lay his left index exactly 234 ANNA IN MEXICO. across the middle of his right index, which the gentleman finally comprehending, said suddenly, looking the functionary full in the face, " Let it be so — agreed" — meaning that he would give him the half. The money was forthcoming on the same day ! All affairs at Leon were now wound up with dispatch, and the concert-receipts, including the soap, deposited in due form at the banker's, un- til the return of our artists.* The soap, much to the regret of the maestro, promised no interest. But the exorbitant demand of the sick printer was reduced to just one half, consequent upon a box of pills prepared and presented to him by the medico secretario. Don Luis Cortes had ironed and " done up" several of Anna's dresses, a branch of business which had now become one of the most vital importance with him, and for which he had * There is only one carriage-road from the city of Mexico to that of Guadalajara, and it would therefore be necessary for the party to return to the metropolis by the same road they left it. Beyond Guadalajara, on the way to Tepic, San Bias and JMazatlan, there is scarce anything more than a foot-path for horsemen and litters. — Ed. ANNA IN MEXICO. 235 entirely abandoned that of brusliing paletots. And the fire-king's troupe, being secured at two piastres a head, were ordered to be at the meson^ well mounted and armed, by seven o'clock on the following morning. They arrived at six, a little before daylight ; but, as in Mexico there is no twilight, the broad day bm'sting at once upon the darkest night, the artists, up and ready, had soon an opportunity to observe with what genus of of beings Don Pepe Silva and Co. were to be united in their defence. First, there was the tall, jovial and knowing Yankee, the Mentor-general of the learned pony, mounted on a huge black horse, who saluted Aima, after a very graceful and circus fashion, the moment she appeared on the threshold. The others appeared rather motley and whimsical, having, it seemed, made indiscriminate use of the fire-king's theatrical wardrobe wherever their own had been found deficient as to quantity or striking effect. One of them, in particular, might have played clown at any moment's warning. lie wore a sort of Grecian cap, large, full, soiled white trowsers, and an under waistcoat, once red, but now of a pale rose, ornamented with tarnished half- 20* 236 ANNA IN MEXICO. broken spangles. And when the tidy and tight little Don Luis Cortes, sitting smartly on his little bay horse, looked upon the man, both their faces gradually opened with the broadest kind of a grin upon each other, growing in intensity and ampli- tude, until it would have nonplussed any observer to say when this duetto crescendo grinendo might come to a conclusion, but for the word " Yamos .'"' pronounced by Bochsa with the usual startling em- phasis, which brought to order even the Yankee chief, who had just, by way of a salute, given a thump with his clenched fist into the back of Don Pepe Silva, nearly knocking that dignified func- tionary through a swift somerset off his horse. The steeds belonging to this extra escort had all been educated for the circus, and, in consequence, understood very little how to conduct themselves on such sober occasions ; so that, on leaving the city and passing through the Paseo^ a part of which is laid out in the form of a circle, two or three of the brutes set off with a sudden wildness of purj)ose, flying round and round, with a velocity totally ungovernable. Don Pepe Silva, delighted at an opportunity for sarcasm, burst into a broad guffaw ! ANNA IN MEXICO. 23-7 while the other Dons joined in with " hravis /" and applause, which only gave fresh speed to the quad- rupeds, until the chief, perceiving that such scenes would compromise the dignity of his troupe, barked out a short slang word of command, and order was once more restored. During the journey, divers jokes of a very saga- cious and facetious pith were passed between the two escorts, Don Pepe Silva and Don Luis Cortes alone preserving a staid, serious and majestic mien. The Yankee chief was from Utica, which place he had not seen for many a year, having traveled all over South America, And many a droll story he recounted, too, of his travels, interspersed with " Hail Columbia" and the " Star-spangled Banner," sung in a powerful tenor voice, and playing an imaginary bass-drum accompaniment with his hands on the shoulders of Don Pepe Silva, who repeatedly glared with unexampled ferocity at his confounding impertinence ; and, had it not been for the salutary operation of the piastres given him the previous night, it is probable he would have return- ed the joke in the true Mexican spirit, by quietly blowing the joker's brains out. 238 ANNA IN MEXICO. Finally, the party arrived at the liabcienda^* called La Lagunilla^ sixteen miles from Leon^ and without any disagreeable rencontre^ Anna's honne etoile still beaming in all its brilliant ascendancy. And there the extra escort, receiving their stipulated pay, with a few glasses of excellent cognac^ which Anna had directed Cortes to distribute amongst them, prepared to take leave. The chief shook hands heartily with Anna and Bochsa, and, pinch- ing Don Pepe's ear, said, "Good bye, stranger! Drop us a line — eh? Hope you '11 come to Uticay and see a fellow when you get time ! — guess you '11 like them pesky Yankee doodles, arter all! Great country, sir! * Hacienda — an extensive Mexican farm. Many of these oc- cupy no less than sixty, one hundred, -or even tvi^o hundred square miles of ground, belonging to rich land proprietors re- siding generally in the metropolis. Each hacienda has a large, substantial, and sometimes, very handsome building, devoted entirely to farming purposes. The extraordinary numbers of horses, mules, cows, etc., covering these vast half-cultivated fields — some proprietors possessing, it is said, upw^ards of one hundred thousand heads of cattle — the absence of any human being, or even a cottage for miles around — the chain of wild and stupendous mountains, by the bold girth of which the tra- ANNA IN IVIEXICO. 239 Land o' the free and home o' the brave ! Give iis a lock of your hair! — now dew! "What, you wxmtl Then here goes !" — and phicking a hair from Don Pepe's horse's tail, which made the animal start as if shot, the grand amphitheatrical cavalcade made off, and were soon out of sight, leaving Don Pepe bristling up like a fighting-cock under the indig- nity of a cut comb. A comfortable lunch was now set forth and disposed of by the travellers, and they continued their journey, sleeping, that night, at Lagos, a very dull and deserted city, and the next at Agua del OhispOy a poor village, and the following at San Juan de los Lagos. This small town lies quite at the bottom of a dee23 valley, and the glittering domes of its cathedral, convents and churches, as seen from the surrounding heights above, serve to form a coup deceit of the most picturesque description. This, on the present occasion, was greatly enhanced and vivified by the active and busy preparations for the veller seems imprisoned without the possibility of advancing further on his way, are, to a stranger, objects of peculiar won- der and astonishment, — Ed. 240 ANNA IN IIEXICO. ensuing fair. Houses, shops and bootlis of all sizes were in course of erection in all corners, together with a circus ; while large cases of merchandize of every sort filled up the entire streets. The resident inhabitants were crowding out of their homes to let them at round prices to visitors, and peasants, black-legs and pick-pockets were already on the alert, swarming the Plaza and arcades. In fact, Don Luis Cortes subsequently narrated to Anna and Bochsa a very funny, ingenious robbery which came off there on the very evening of their arrival. It seemed that, among the dense multitude on the Plaza^ there was o^paisano^ doubtless a stranger to the place and evidently a simple fellow, who wore upon his shoulders a very fine and costly serajpc^ and appeared lost in wonder at everything he saw, when he experienced a violent jerk from behind, and therewith found his serajye transferred by some invisible process to the shoulders of a nnichacho who stood at his back, quietly smoking a 2>'^iro and looking perfectly at ease on the scene around him ! The countryman at once seized the boy by the col- lar, called to the police and elucidated the fact. But the muchacho^ with the utmost coolness, de- ANNA IN MEXICO. 241 niecl that lie knew anything whatever of the matter; stating that the serape was his own property, and, by way of proof, showed the strings attached to the under side of the garment and which served to adjust it to his body — strings which, he said, he had fixed there himself in-order that he might not' be robbed of it ! The country- man opened his eyes to a perfect circle, unable to express by speech his utter stujDefaction ; while the muchaclio^ graciously offering him a cigar, slowly and leism-ely sauntered away, enveloping himself with great satisfaction in the ample folds of the bright-colored seraj>e. Cortes, in attempting to ac- count for this exploit, gave his oj)inion that the countryman had put on the serape inside out, presenting the strings very temj)tingly to the view of the muchacTio^ who had simply placed his back ujD against that of the owner, and by means of the strings, wound round his shoulders, had thus whip- ped it off upon his own body — at which Anna concluded that the best pantomime tricks were not always to be seen at Christmas. While Cortes was preparing dinner, aided by el Serlor Secretario^ who had assured Bochsa that, 242 ANNA IN MEXICO. being a medico, and accustomed to the mixing of drugs, he was not the less up to the concoction of a delicious ragout — Anna and her maestro went to see the cathedral, and to look at what was going on generally in the town, accompanied by two of their escort, well armed. All was bustle, con- fusion and uproar. Beardless boys in the shape of military trooj)s were parading the streets, in the wild hope of keeping order, which only increased the impossibility of the thing ; policemen taking prisoners at every step, such as ragamuffins who had mistaken other people's pO"ckets for their own ■ — but, like other Mexican Vidocqs, keeping shy of the gamblers' dens, opened and crammed night and day with armies of disgusting and filthy beg- gars, who are certainly the most impudent set in the world. Clerks, too, were beginning to muster strong behind their respective counters, with pistols stuck formidably in their belts f" jpulque- ehops crowded ; wine merchants displaying at their doors cases of claret, champagne and madeira, in * A custom, it seems, quite indispensable during this ftiir, which lasts about twenty days. ANNA IN MEXICO. 243 piles ; fantastic apothecaries' shops bottling up deceitfully, in crystal phials of a thousand brilliant hues, the loathsome flavors of their myriad com- pounds ; confectionaries exhibiting every species of rich preserved fruits, ices, syrups and French hon-hons in lavish profusion — one of which es- tablishments, by the way, the artists entered. The confectioner, who spoke French, struck up at once a lively conversation with Bochsa, while Anna ransacked the shop of its choicest dolci^ giving sundry parcels to Don Marco and Don Gulio (her two gentlemen at arms), to be taken to the meson, filling her own pockets besides, and those of her maestro — for she well knew their extent and capacity. Touching the fair — the man said that, with the exception of those of Frankfort, in Germany, and of Nigney Novogorod, in Russia, there was not one in the world that could enter into competition with the fair of San Juan de los Lagos, in point of method and enterprise of trafiic. It seemed that this obscure and insignificant town had been chosen by merchants on account of its proximity to the ports of San Bias and Mazatlan^ 21 244 ANNA IN MEXICO. whence foreign goods to an immense extent enter- ed Mexico by contraband.* Bocbsa hereupon inquired, if a concert or two would not be profitable at the fair ? — but the con- fectioner thought not, as no ladies ever attended it, and the minds of the merchants were bent on other things ; and, moreover, there "could be no room for it, the few spacious ones being cut up into small compartments, barely large enough for a bed and one chair, for the purpose of accommodating the thousands that were expected to put up there. Anna was now anxious to return home, and make a plum-pudding for dinner ; and, on their arrival at the meson^ they found Don Pepe, Don Luis Cortes and the secretary violently disputing with the woman who had charge of the Fonda^ and who wished to be paid for all the luxuries they had brought forth from the great net larder, under the melon, into the kitchen, just the same as *It would seem, from the fact of the Mazatlan Governor being on one occasion offered the sum of 80,000 piastres for his situ- ation for a few months, that the authorities are not total stran- gers to these contraband operations. How is this, Escelentisimo Prendente de la Republica mexicMna ? — Ed. AKNA IN MEXICO. 245 though she had been buying them herself for the regalement of her guests ! — and, to all their remon- strances,- she only replied, with a most impertm-b- able air, that this was the only profitable season of the year to her, and people coming to the fair must spend money, and those who had n't any money had better not trouble others, and much better stay at home ! At which Bochsa, perceiv- ing that the kitchen fire was going out in the heat of this discussion, and feeling that his dinner was indispensable to his comfort, gave some money to the woman, and further purchased some of her ex- cellent fish, and by that manoeuvre her temper was materially appeased, and, soon afterwards, the appetites of the hungry artists. The next morning, after paying triple the usual prices for the bed-rooms, the musical wanderers left Sa7i Juan de los Lagos^ and, ascending the road, which was in a very good condition, they looked down for the last time upon the scene be- low. The surrounding hill-sides were covered with tents and topless booths, and appeared like the en- campment of a great army. The roads were filled 246 ANNA m MEXICO. up with arj'ieros, and innumerable mules loaded down with wares ; and Indians, for miles around, carrying mosaic towers of mats, tables, chairs, 'baskets and earthen pots of the oddest conceivable shapes, on their heads ; and ptclque pigs jammed anyhow into clumsy Mexican carts, the wheels of which, to this day, consist simply of rude, trans- verse cuttings from tree trunks, with a hole in the centre ; caballeros, on richly caparisoned horses, enveloped in costly serajpes and followed by half dressed, but well armed, servants ; carriages of every description, and diligenGias innumerable* — all on their way to the famous fair of San Juan. Every hut, from Leon to Guadalajara^ had been transformed into a Fonda, inviting travellers to stop, through the savory flavor oifrijoles and torti- llas, all hot and ready, as they hither wended their journey. Here and there, old wonien, under trees, were selling sugar canes, immense radishes, and onions, which were particularly patronized by the Dons of Anna's escort. * Several diligencias are daily sent from Guadalajara during this fair. — Ed. A2JNA IN MEXICO. 247 The scene they had left was such as they never expected to behold again. The pencil of Hogarth or Teniers could never have reached it. Shouts of mirth and merriment, that almost intoxicated the ear, gave ceaseless music to the revellings of the hour. The life of a world seemed concentrated into that wild focus of conflicting action — that gidf of human passions, each carousing in its un curbed freedom, as though they would challenge death itself to cast a chill upon the fervid intensity of their being. "We will leave them, then, for the present, to their fate, and follow our travellers upon the road. From time to time, patrols of armed men were seen in the woods and about the road-sides, as a protection against Ladrones. These consisted of farmers in a small way and inhabitants of little villages on the route, who are paid so much per diem by the State of Jalisco.^ Having passed through Jaloscotitlan^ San Mi- guel^ Tejpatitlan Tierra Colorada^ (where Bochsa's * San Juan de los Lagos and Guadalajara are both situated in Jalisco, the latter city being the capital of that State.— tEd. 21* 248 ANNA IN MEXICO. secretary left him to take the diligencia in advance of Anna towards Guadalajara^ as also Puerta Grande^ all places of minor importance, but re- lieved from their usual dulness by the coming fair, the party reached the Puerta of the beautiful city of Guadalajara on "Wednesday, the 15th Novem- ber, after a journey of seven days. GUADALAJARA Previous to entering the city, they passed the village, or rather the small and attractive town of San Pedro^ with its elegant little country seats, the residences of the Guadalajaran fashionables, backed by large and well cultivated gardens, filled with orange, lemon and apple trees, forming a most charming picture. On leaving this hijou of a place, a fine, well-levelled avenue, of nearly three miles in length, bi'ought the artists safely to the city of Guadalajara^ where they threaded the spacious Paseo^ and finally brought up at the Tneson already provided by the secretary for their reception. He then informed Bochsa, that, while awaiting their anival, he had understood the lady proprietress of the theatre (which turned out to be a theatre, and not a cock-pit,) had been attacked by a violent cold, and that he had fortunately, by 11* ^ 260 ANNA IN MEXICO. the administration of some cough-drops, so secured her good will that he had obtained the theatre, scenery, cushions* and all, for thirty piastres per night ! That secretary must have been invaluable. And now, he further impressed upon Bochsa the necessity of giving the first two concerts at once, and without loss of time, as large numbers of the principal merchants were soon to leave town for the great fair, and their families could not be seen in public without them. The first step, then, was to procure a comfortable private house for Anna's residence, as a meson would not do for her in a city like Cruadalajara ; and besides, her sojourn there would be of some duration. And here, again, the fashionable apothecary-shop was of vast utility, as its pro- prietor, Seiior Ocampo, immediately offered an unfurnished jpalazio which he 'had to let in the fashionable quarter of the town, at the rate of forty piastres per month. Bochsa concluded the bar- * It will be remetobered that the pit-cushions, in Mexico, are never let with the theatre, but remain as a speculation for the managers. — Ed. 1 - AifNA IN MEXICO. 251 gain upon the instant ; and further learning, from the apothecary-shop, of course, that there was an English upholsterer in the city, where furniture could be hired, thither posted the lively maestro, and selected at once all that was necessary to furnish with elegance some half a dozen spacious rooms, (for the salon alone would contain upwards of a hundred persons,) besides servants and other needful attendants — the whole at the amazing average of one piastre per diem ! What, more strongly than this beggar's price, could bespeak the wretched financial state of a large city ! And thus, just twenty-four hours after her arrival, Anna found herself mistress of a superb and fashionably appointed jpalazio^ one of the finest in that whole city of palaces, and at an expense of a little more than two piastres per day. And Don Pepe Silva and his men, taking possession of the extensive suite of , apartments over the coach-houses and stables — which latter could accommodate at least twenty horses — there was not a nabob in the place could boast at that time more sumptuous grandeur of establishment, or a more satisfactory scale of general comfort, than did Anna, the idol of the people and the prima donna of the world. 252 - ANNA m MEXICO. The city of Guadalajara was discovered to be second only to the metropolis in point of elegance, and contained a much larger population than at present. The streets are of great width, and most • of the houses, in the vicinity of the numerous magnificent squares, are like the residences of kings. The churches and convents are but little inferior in splendor to those of the capital ; and the cathedral is adorned with two fine-toned organs, standing imposingly, right and left, in the aisles. As for the famous suspension gardens, so very much talked about in divers books on Mexico, Anna looked for them, but in vain; though her disappointment was, in a measure, alleviated by the sight of the beautiful parterres of choice flowers which occupy the com't-yards and landing-places ot all the principal mansions of this gorgeous city. The shops are as well furnished as those of the metropolis, and quantities of booths, in all parts of the town, arrest the attention of purchasers by their display of rich serapes and rehosos, made in Guadalajara, and fine laces worked by the female prisoners of the penitentiary. In these marts, " cd fresco^'' all sorts of garments for the lower classes are sold, and, strange to tell, are manufactured in ANNA IN MEXICO, 2'53 England expressly for these Mexican dealers. According to Anna's recommendation, strangers going to Guadalajara, and wishing to gain an insight into the manners and customs of the people, should not forget to visit El Marcota de San Aiigustin^ and the spacious factory of rebosos^ which occupies one of the most splendid jpalazios of the city. It is the property of General Yanderlinden, and under the direction of Mr. Duprat, a most polite and deserving French gentleman, who treated the artists with the utmost kindness. Guadalajara must have been, in the time of the Spaniards, a place of great opulence, and the residence of many of the first nobility in the land. ]Srow, although perhaps it exhibits less evidence of its decadence than any other of the Mexican cities, on account of its commercial importance — though its Paseo^ some three times a week in the after- noon, and the grand Plaza^ every evening, are much frequented and enjoyed — still it is but a mere shadow of what it was. The national costumes, so far as Anna observed them, were much the same as those she had elsewhere seen : 254 ANNA IN MEXICO. though the lower orders appeared much more intelligent and civil. At the period of the arrival of the artists at Guadalajara, there were two newsj)apers in the city — an article which they had not found at Ceila- ya, the Yalle or at Leon. During their sojourn, however. La Voce de Alicnsa, an official publica- tion, was suj)pressed by the Police, and LJl Nene {The Dwarf) was expected soon to share the same fate. Meanwhile, Mess. Escorza and Gen. Querene, the Governor and Military Commandant of the State, and Colonel Gay, with his distinguished lady, and a host of other equally prominent people, came to visit Anna and solicit her company at their mansions. Nothing, in fact, was spoken of but Anna the cantatrice ; and when she practised in her drawing-room the streets were crowded in front of her palazio by the eager populace, some of whom climbed to the iron bars of her window to get a glimpse of her, while old women knelt un- der the casement, as if awed by the voice of some supernatural creation. At the earliest available moment, every place ANNA IN MEXICO. 255 for Anna's first concert costume was seized upon with tlie greatest avidity!; And, notwithstanding, Bochsa found the orchestra verj weak and incom- plete — in spite of the assurance of the professor who let them out, to the effect that Mad. Anna Bishop would be accompanied nearly as well as in Europe — it was the best he could procure, and the afiair came off on the 22d of November, and the theatre, to the very ceiling, was one mass of hu- man heads, save where the fronts of the balconies, there being no balustrades, displayed the exquisite full toilettes of the ladies, who had certainly attired themselves with the greatest taste, the majority of them having costly bouquets, with which they showered Anna the moment she appeared upon the stage. All her scenas were encored, and the in- terim filled up by constantly keeping her before the curtain. To the Homanza from Lucrezia Borgia^ " Com'e bello," she added the new, and extremely difficult, camatina^ which Donizetti com- posed for Grisi, in Paris, and never sung in the United States except by Anna. The olMgato Gen- naro^ sleeping on a bench, was, " for that night only," represented by Don Luis Cortes, smothered 2'» 256' AJ^NA IN MEXICO. up in a black Yenetian domino, made by Don Marco, the ci-devant tailor, who certainly played his part au naturel / for, long after the scena was over, and the curtain down, he was still found on the bench, snoring like any ten Genearos, doubt- less little dreaming of his very wretched mother Lucrezia, or of the peculiar delights of a hal mas- que at Venice. During the entr ''actes of this first performance, the box-office had been besieged for tickets for the second ; and, by the time the audience had left the theatre, the house was again bought up, and at prices materia,lly augmented. On the occasion of that second Dramatic Con- cert, by way of a surprise, Bochsa was very desir- ous of giving the grand scena of "Casta Diva" from Norma^ but scarce knew how to manage it, for lack of company — it being necessary that the grand priest Oroveso and the Druids should all be on the stage at once. At last, Bochsa conceived the hap- py idea of dressing up the men of his escort in robes of white calico, cut by Anna herself, and made by Don Marco, and Druidize them for the oc- casion. The cocJiero major Alvarado, who was a ANNA IN MEXICO. 257 tall, stout, good-looking fellow with a black beard, was instructed in the part of Oroveso. Bochsa bad explained, at the rehearsal, what the new artists were to do ; that is, simply, on the rise of the cur- tain, to enter upon the stage with slow dignity, in pairs, headed by Oroveso, and, ranging themselves on one side of ISTorma's altar, to remain there per- fectly quiet and speechless until the fall of the curtain. On the evening of the performance Boch- sa himself dressed the men, crowned them with orange-branches cut fresh from the fragrant trees in the garden of the palace occupied by Anna, and surveying them with some pride, went into the or- chestra to direct the overtm'e. Soon the cm^tain rose, and the troujpe came on in strict accordance with all instructions. But, oh, what a sight was there for the most classical and punctilious Boch- sa ! In the belt of Oroveso were stuck two huge pistols, while a long cavalry sword swung dangling at his side, followed up by the Druids, armed with carabines and lances, and the whole crowned with triumphant Mexican colors. Bochsa felt faint ! He was in dismay — and at an utter loss what to do ; for it was too late to stop the march or to 258 ANNA IN MEXICO. remedy the absurdity. On came Anna, who stared at the ridiculous spectacle, and burst into a fit ot screaming mirth, obliging Bochsa, in his perspiring distress, to repeat the march, ere she could pos- sibly compose herself to undertake the sediziosi voci ! It subsequently appeared that the Druids, during the overture, concluded that, in their double capa- city of escarte and Mexican militaries, they could not, with propriety, present themselves before the public without their accustomed arms, by night as well as by day. This they not only thought was perfectly right but added wonderfully to their general a2)pearance. And the best of the joke was, that few of the audience perceived the ana- chronistic error, but rather seemed to think that the arms and Mexican colors, relieved uj) by white calico, had an effect they had rarely seen sm-j)ass- ed on any stage. After a third concert, quite as gratifying to the artists as the two preceding ones, Anna was prevailed upon to remain until after the fair — whither the leading residents of the city had, ac- cording to custom, repaired — and then to resume her ^^'/^^) ANNA IN MEXICO. 259 performances. By that time, too, Bochsa's " old lady" would have arrived, if not broken to pieces, and there was no little anxiety to hear the famous harpist of Napoleon. Besides, the weather, al- though at the extreme end of iN^ovember, was as de- lightful as an Italian May ; and Anna's palo.zio was, all in all, as delicious a retreat from her fatigues and excitement as she could well desire.' And then, a very select and agreeable society of ladies and gentlemen were always mtx jpetis soins to make her happy, and she saw no reason why she should n't be. Consequently, she remained, visiting with Bochsa all the public buildings and driving out every day to the Paseo in the big Pompadour coach, to the great, but very good- natured, merriment of her friends, its rough rope harness and the piles of old scrapes, covering up the true state of the saddles of Don Alvarado and Don Mariano, contrasting forcibly with the light elegance of the foreign vehicles and richly-capari- soned steeds of the caballeros — and thus going about, and seeing everything and everybody worthy of note. Among the " sights" was the spectacle of a grand 22* 260 ANNA IN MEXICO. religious procession, which had been set fol'th to parade through the principal streets of the city ; and, of course, Anna and Bochsa failed not to secure, in good season, an eligible situation near the grand square to have a full view of it, from' that inestimable coach. On these occasions, the streets through which the procession is to pass are lined with police and soldiers ; and the strips of flag-stones that ribbon the middle of the pave- ments are overshadowed by narrow lengths of white awning, attached by ropes or garlands to the houses on either side, so arranged as not to pre- vent the inmates from beholding from the windows the great pageant, which is rendered still more brilliant and imposing by the never-clouded radi- ance of a Mexican sun. Balconies and tops of dwellings are, likewise, gaily decorated with blooming flowers and a gorgeous display of silk flags, ladies' shawls, rich Chinese embroidered counterpanes, etc., etc. This marvellous cortege was first - announced by the rolling of drums, stunning peals of bells, thundering of guns, crackers, and rockets, and a general yelling of the populace ; to say nothing of ANNA IN MEXICO. 261 crazy bands of music, playing polkas and waltzes all at the same time ! Then a strong military force made its appearance, followed hard up by all the authorities of the city, and the high functionaries of the churches, apparently sinking under the weight of golden sacerdotal robes, and surrounded by legions of Jesuits, friars and monks, in red, blue, white, black and yellow gowns. Then there appeared boys, and lejperos singing and holding- torches, and, soon after these, the great feature of the show in the shape of one dozen wax figures, attired in the most superb and fantastic fashion, male and female, as at Queretaro — whereupon all animated heads were instantly uncovered, knees bent to the earth, and solemn silence took the place of the general uproar of the multitude. Anna and Bochsa — much to the discomfort of the inaestro — were, of course, obliged to kneel likewise, in con- formity with the custom, on the floor of the coach. Meanwhile the wax figures, whose heads, eyes and mouths moved in the most startling manner, and whose bodies were nailed fast to the splendid lofty palanquins borne on the shoulders of athletic men — passed along; and Bochsa, who was not 262 ANNA IN MEXICO. very deeply engaged in praying, and had a great desire to see "what was going on, ventured to raise his head gently. But what did he see ? A fine she-doll, with an embroidered crimson-velvet robe, her neck and arms covered with diamonds and pearls of great value, — but minus her head ! That is to say, that very important part of the person, instead of occupy- ing its natural position, was dangling on her left arm, attached by pretty rose-colored ribbon, vei'y much in the fashion ladies generally wear their ridicules. Bochsa, anxious to know the history of this unfortunate female, sent Alfred (the invalua- ble secretary), as soon as the cortege was out of sight, to the nearest apothecary's shop, to make some inquiries. He here ascertained that, early in the morning, the men engaged in dressing up the whole troupe, being very much hurried, and com- pelled to handle the holy actors rather roughly, found that the weather, which was very hot, had melted the glue with which the head was fastened to the neck — leaving the body in their hands, while the head went rolling and bouncing about the floor, to the horror and dismay of the dressers. At length they succeeded in catching it and securing it safely ANNA IN MEXICO. 263 under a large board. The time fixed for the show was rapidly approaching, and there was no time to glue the head on again. What was to be done ? A consultation of Padri was hastily summoned ; and, after much grave discussion, it was finally resolved that, for the first and only time, the head 60 unluckily displaced would, on this grand occasion, appear, — not in its proper position, crowning the body of the saint, but in another and less dignified, though perhaps more efi"ective attitude, as has been previously described. On these festival days, as in the metropolis, every kind of work is suspended, and all the shops are shut up. Innumerable fire-works ; incessant explosions of crackers and goings-off of rockets ; illuminations in all quarters of the city, especially at the churches; hard drinking of Pulque and Mexican gin ; keep the lower classes from home the whole evening and a greater part of the night — while the genteel people promenade in the vicinity of some favorite church, in the dim rays of curiously-colored paper lanterns, whose soft, mysterious light invites to romantic and sentimental conversation, disturbed only by the faint ' and distant sounds of small Indian drums and fifes. 264 ANNA IN MEXICO. A scene so dreamy and romantic as this, naturally recalled to Anna all she had read about duenas — characters which figure so extensively in Spanish romance, and doubtless in real life as well. She therefore inquired of some of her fair acquaintances if such souhrettes were common in Mexico. "Oh no, no!" answered one, with an arch look; "our fans and cigaritos do the tiling!" It is unfortunate that in all the books written upon Mexico, truth is so systematically disregarded. The imagination of the writers, dazzled by the romance of the extraordinary epochs of Montezuma and Cortez, and by that heavenly^ and intoxicating cli- mate, revel in a world of fantasies, speaking con- tinually of things belonging to other times, and never condescending to leave the lofty regions of imagination, and to see and relate facts as they are. It is true that the huge iron bars which adorn the windows of all Mexican houses, as in Havana, make one think of desolate senoritas under lock and key, of guitar-lovers serenading their dulcineas in the street, faute de mieux ; of crusty old Bartolos, shrewd Figaros, and complaisant duenas ; but after all, this prison-like discipline and formidable para- ANNA IN MEXICO. 265 phernalia is indispensable, as a protection against robbers — a fact, of which a brief residence in the country would be sufficient to convince the most sceptical. :(C 5l< * * * * The next spectacle Anna attended was Los ToRROS,. or the bull-fights. The arena, an immense uncovered space, contained an audience of at least two thousand, the greater part being ladies and women of the middle classes. The price of admis- sion was a dollar per head, and neat boxes had been erected over the surrounding gardens. The an- nouncement bill was quite theatrical — the principal bull being lauded and dubbed "e? celehr-e" at the top, as our great stars are : then it was announced that in the entracts (!) eminent clowns " from the prin- cipal royal arenas of Spain," would perform favorite comic scenes, and the author [videlicit manager) would execute some extraordinary feats of horseman- ship. So many descriptions of bull-fighting have been written, every where and by all sorts of people, that it is useless to dwell here upon this national and barbarous amusement. However, Anna could not help remarking that the women seeemed his'hly ex- 266 ANNA IN MEXICO. cited, and that the deafening cries of ^^ Bravo torros! hravo cavalos ! mui Men cavalier os !'' animating and rendering almost frantic men and beasts engaged in the fight, proceeded mostly from the tender sex. Our artists did not stay long, and were obliged to return on foot, as mules and melon had been aban- doned in the street by the Dons, who could not resist the temptation of assisting at their favorite spectacle, nor imagine for an instant that Anna could be so deficient in taste as to leave the arena before all was over. Four bulls were killed, but no horses ; and the torreadores did not seeem hurt at all. HOW ANNA LEARNED TO SING IN MEXICAN. In every country Anna had visited she had made it a point to sing in the national language and costume of the people among whom she found herself. She wished much to do the same thing in Mexico — par- ticularly as the dress of a muchacha (woman of the middle class) is very pretty and picturesque. But where to find a genuine Mexican song ? — this was the difficulty. Little Spanish airs for the lower classes, and Italian cavatinas for the senoritas, were all. the music that could be heard of, and no such thing as a music-seller in Guadalajara ! In this dilemma, Luis Cortez, in his capacity of dame d'atours (and he really was very useful to Anna in the selection and preparation of her cos- tumes), had ingratiated himself so much with our artists, that he was admitted into the consultation on this important occasion. He professed to be ac- 23 (267) 268 ANNA IN MEXICO. quainted with two or three itinerant Mexican musi- cians, and that he would bring them to Anna. Accordingly the next morning they came. There were three of them, each with his instrument — two being mandolins, or guitars with wire strings, and the other a small harp, not unlike the tra- ditional harp of the Irish, though smaller. They played various pieces ; but they were all bits of Spanish boleros, and (an odd enough coincidence) resembling so much the WelsJi music, that Bochsa soon dismissed them, seeing that they would be of no avail for Anna's purposes. He gave them a few piastres ; but the harper, spying a big harp in one corner of the room, (it was that of Bochsa, which had arrived the day before,) insisted on hearing the maestro play — saying (as interpreted by the secre- tary) that, as they had performed for the amusement of Bochsa, they expected the gordo cavaliero to do the same for them. Bochsa, much annoyed, but not wishing to have a quarrel — a thing very easily got up with such people — sat down to the harp ; but, seeing the men making preparations to dance a bolero to his harp-playing, he began preluding in his most scientific style — entering deeply into all the ANNA IN MEXICO. 269 labor of heavy modulations, and taking particular care not to play a single bar of melody. The men, "who had begun dancing, stopped in astonishment — waited for a tune — tried once more, but in vain. Thus the mischievous maestro kept them for some ten minutes, sometimes on one leg, sometimes on the other, looking very foolish and ridiculous. At length they departed, shrugging their shoulders, and appa- rently entertaining a very poor idea of the talents of the gordo cavaliero. As our artists were sitting after dinner in their handsome boudoir, a voice Avas heard at a little dis- tance, singing. Anna went into the garden to see whence the sounds proceeded ; and, on reaching a little terrace belonging to the Escorte's apartments, she found Don Marcos seated in the veritable posi- tion of a tailor, stitching away, mending the clothes of his camarados, and singing, with not a bad tenor voice, a lively song in Mexican. Anna thought it pretty — asked what it was, and was informed by the ever ready and polite Luis Cortez, that the canzion was called La Pasadita (the promenade), and had been very popular for the last two years — although the words, referring to the entrance of the Ameri- 23* 270 ANNA IN MEXICO. cans into Mexico, were a sort of satire upon the courage and character of the Mexicans themselves. Anna immediately expressed a desire to learn this song, and Don Marcos was honored with an encore, for the purpose of enabling Bochsa to note down the music. Alfred, the secretary, translated the words into French, to give Anna the full meaning of them, and Francesca, Anna's maid, was despatched to the best milliner's, to order a costume a la mucliacha. Anna, as she always is, was as particular concerning the correctness of her costume of a Mexican grisette as of Judith or Norma, and on the succeeding Sab- bath took a long walk, to observe the mudJiacJias, and the real type of the character she was about to represent. The handsome reboso, the costly hand- kerchief, the glittering short red jupon, the pretty blue satin shoes, the fine silk stocking, all was thought of and carefully observed, and got up in the very best style. When Anna had thoroughly learned the Pasadita, and had made herself entirely at home in the cos* tume of a nmchacha, she decided on giving a dress rehearsal in her spacious saloons, and invited to it, not the fashionable society in which she usually i ANNA IN MEXICO. 271 moved, but her laundresses, the family of Cortez, living in the city, Francesca's female friends, and the whole escorte, with,, car^e blanche for all tl: -ir friends and acquaintances. All were punctual ; and, after having partaken of 'pulque and tortillas, which had been placed for them in the garden, they were summoned to the drawing-room, where foot-lights had been arranged as in a theatre, to give effect to the scene. Bochsa took his seat at the piano, struck a brilliant ritour- nelle, and in a moment Anna entered, in full costume, walking in that free and easy manner of the Mexi- cans, which no other nation can imitate. The effect was electric : the whole audience sprang from their seats — they roared — they applauded — they went frantic with a real and unmistakeable delight — and Anna was satisfied that the Pasadita sung in public would be a decided hit. We must not forget to mention that this little soiree du tiers etat concluded with a pretty Spanish duetto, sung by two laundresses, and a canzion called La Catatumba, sung by one of Cortez's sisters. The argument of this latter song is that of a Mexican country boy who comes to Madrid to see the court ; 23* 272 ANNA IN MEXICO. and Anna, elated hj her Pasadita success, and taking a strong fancy for La Catatumha, determined at once to learn it, and to have a handsome mu- chacho dress made for the occasion, giving the order for it to Cortez's tailor. MS CHOLERA — DEPARTURE FROM GUADALAJARA. The fair of San Juan del Lagos had now ended. Bankers and merchants had returned to Guadalajara, and Bochsa's harp and Anna's Mexican songs being ready, they gave a splendid concert at the theatre, •which was so well attended that our artists decided to give two or three more before returning to Mexico. But official intelligence that the cholera had already appeared in the State of Jalisco, and was making di'eadful ravages on the road leading to the city of Mexico (the only one our artists could take), came like a thunderbolt. All business was immediately suspended — the theatres, taverns, and all other places of public resort, were ordered to be closed, and all social reunions were prohibited. Even the assembling of more than three persons together was prohibited. All fruits found in the shops (except lemons), all kinds of fish and pork- meat were ordered (273) 274 ANNA IN MEXICO. to be thrown away instantly. In fact the strongest measures were taken by the authorities of Guada- lajara to guard against the dreadful scourge ; and the Governor was so kind as to call on Anna and urge her to leave the city as soon as possible, as his duty would shortly compel him to send soldiers to the frontiers of the State of Jalisco, to form a cordon sanitaire, with strict orders to allow no one to enter or leave the State. He added that he deplored more than he could express the present situation of Anna and Bochsa, as, the cholera raging on a greater part of the road, they would be unable to stop in any of the cities on their way, as they had done before — their best course being to try and reach Mexico without delay, and with all possible precautions. All this was not particularly pleasant ; but there was no alternative, and Bochsa immediately ordered the family melon to be got ready. We forgot to relate in the proper place, that Don Pepe Silva and Don Marcos, a few days before these late events, had absconded and returned to Mexico — Don Pepe (no doubt as a friendly souvenir) taking with him, beside a sum of money, a handsome pair of pistols belonging to Bochsa, who had lent them ANNA IN MEXICO. 275 to him and Don Marcos. Don Pepe likewise ex- changed his bad horse for a better one belonging to Don Guglio (of course without the latter's knowledge or permission). The command of the escorte there- fore was given to Don Alvarado (the chief cochero and the Mexican Oroveso) ; and the Governor chose for our artists two strong men in place of the two runaways, one an African, the other an ex-arriero. The whole cortege was speedily put in motion, and quitted the city of Guadalajara on the 20th day of January, 1850, Bochsa leaving his secretary behind to settle various business matters, with instructions to rejoin the party on the road (by diligencia) as soon as possible. The secretary, in his quality of doctor, being highly esteemed by all the Medicos and apothecaries, had been placed on the committee appointed to report to the Governor the real state of the cholera in the city, and to suggest sanitary measures : there- fore he was not sorry to remain a few days longer in the town, more especially because he had empha- tically declared that he had found an infallible specific for the cure of that dreaded disease : that persons who kept in their pockets a small bag, con- 276 ANNA IN MEXICO. taining some extraordinary powder of his own in- vention, would inevitably escape contagion.* The miraculous secretary, in the days of the Inquisition, or even in the times of the witch-burning Puritans ' of Plymouth and Salem, would no doubt have been broiled a la minute, as a sorcerer. On the day when our artists and their troupe left Guadalajara, the sun Avas not so bright as usual. The air was damp and murky with the smoke which rose from numerous fires, lighted in the streets to purify the atmosphere. Coffins were seen in many directions, some deposited at the doors of convents and of private dwellings, which had been visited by death, others borne along on the shoulders of wan- looking, frightened mozos. To add to the melan- * During the cholera season in the United States, it was a general custom, even among many of the -leading temperance people, to carry in their pockets small bottles of amber-colored fluid, as a protection, which, when closely examined,' bore a remarkable resemblance to brandy. Whether it proved more efficacious than the Doctor's powder, history saith not. It is, no doubt, from the above fact, that old fine Cognac, in some towns of the South, is labelled, even now. Consolation, and cannot be obtained under any other name. — Editor. ANNA IN MEXICO. 277 choly appearance of the scene, all houses were closed excepting those of the apothecaries. The party soon reached San Pedro, the fashiona- ble suburb of Guadalajara, which they had so warmly admired, in parading through it, two months before. But now, how different it looked ! all the portes cocheres shut up, the streets deserted, the very trees leafless or drooping. No sound but the hammering of those who were making coflSns, the dirge-like chant of the priests who paid the last sad oflBces to the dead, or the deep booming of tolling bells. It would require the pen of a Goldsmith or a Gray to describe such a scene. These sights must have had a striking effect upon the cochere major and his mules, as the famous Pompadour rolled ponderously along at full speed, followed by the whole of the gardes du corps, who seemed a little out of spirits. Even Don Luis Cortez closed his blue lips over the teeth he was usually so fond of exhibiting, nor permitted a smile to light up his countenance as he galloped along. Nothing of importance passed on that day or the next. The villages through which the cortege passed, as those already described, were gloomy 24 278 ANNA IN MEXICO. and deserted. The doors of many tenantless cot- tages were open, and on the walls were painted large crosses. Anna counted no less than ten of them on the walls of one small house ; these un- doubtedly denoting the number who had fallen victims there to the fatal scourge, as it is the custom in that country, wherever a traveller perishes by the road-side, either by the hand of violence or by disease, to erect a cross, in order that the passer- by may breathe a prayer for the soul of the departed. Bochsa's face, heretofore so good-humored, looked serious ; Anna was silent, but soul-speaking tears rose often into her large, expressive eyes, as she rode along. At one point she observed a poor, wan, ragged little child, which stood alone beneath a tree by the road-side, looking all forlorn and friendless. She threw him a piastre. She could not hear his feeble voice utter ^^ Bios te gracia, senora ;" but she saw his thin pale lips move, and the tear of gratitude start in his eyes, which were dim as the infectious atmosphere around them. It should here be remarked, to the honor of the Mexicans, that they never passed the crosses before- j ANNA IN MEXICO. 279 mentioned without raising their hats, and frequently making the sign of the cross, in respect to the dead. On sped the cortege, and with them all so far went •well. Thanks to the provident and indefatigable secretary, who had supplied the coach with all sorts of provisions, spiced and preserved, vinaigre, mou- tarde, eamphre, etc., etc., our travellers did not require any assistance from the half-deserted fondas on the road, where stupor and dismay so reigned that it would have been impossible to obtain eatable things. ■ But now we have to relate an incident which, although not exactly touching our artists, was to them very painful, and which cast a gloom on the whole journey. After having breakfasted at San Miguel, our artists were getting in their coach, when Bochsa, in looking behind to see if all the men were ready, saw the African, — one of the men who had joined the escort at Guadalajara, whom Anna used to call " Othello" (for his face was a dark olive, and he wore a Moorish dress), — seated on a stone, attended by Cortez and Guglio, appearing to be ill. The maestro inquired what was the matter. Don Guglio, with an expression of fear, said that Alonzo 24 280 ANNA IN MEXICO. (the African's real name) was not quite well, liad not eaten at breakfast, &c., but that the air would do him good soon. In a short time he mounted his horse with the rest, and the journey was resumed. Several times during the day the kind-hearted Anna looked back through the coach-window to see if Alonzo kept up. She observed that he lagged behind the party, that his head was bent forward, as if he was suflFering very much. She at once ordered Don Luis to ride back, and inquire how he was, and to see if any thing could be done for him. The poor man, thankful for the kind message, seemed to try to rally a little, saying that he felt pains in the knees and stomach, but he thought if he had a little brandy he would soon be well. Anna sent him some instantly, at the same time deploring that th^ secretary, who was really a skilful physician, had remained in Guadalajara. Alonzo swallowed the brandy, and seemed much better. He put his horse into a trot, and rejoined the party. A short time after this, our artists reaching a small village where men and horses were to rest for an hour, the good Anna oifered to obtain medical aid, and urged Alonzo to remain there. But he persisted in going ANNA IN MEXICO. 281 on. Our artists intended to arrive at San Juan de los Lagos that night ; and thej settled in their minds that if the African was still unwell when there, to leave him under the care of some respectable medical man, giving him besides a sum of money to enable him to return back to Guadalajara. But fate, the stern arbitrator, had decided otherwise. On the waste plateau which for several miles commands the heights around the town of San Juan de los Lagos, Anna, not observing Alonzo, requested to have the coach stopped, wishing to knoAV where and how Alonzo was. On inquiry, it was ascertained that he and Don Guglio were missing from the escort. Al- varado, who was near the coach door, said, mourn- fully, that the African, feeling himself worse, had returned to the village. He had just left, accom- panied by Don Guglio, adding that there was very little hope to see Alonzo again, for his disease was cTioUra, and nothing could save him. AVhat then were our artists to do ? To retrograde would have been madness, especially as they were unacquainted with the treatment of the disease, and unprovided with medicines. Without any chance of doing good, they would have endangered the lives 24 * 282 ANNA IN MEXICO. of the rest of the troupe. Their duty, evidently, was to use all possible speed in quitting those pesti- lential regions ; therefore, with sad and heavy hearts, they passed on. When they arrived at San Juan de los Lagos, the same scene of desolation met their wearied eyes. Most of the houses were emptied — doors open, rooms tenantless. A few lean and hungry pigs wandered through the streets ; here and there vultures flapped their dark wings in the air, or fearlessly perched themselves on the house-tops. The confectionaries, formerly so attractive, the ele- gant apothecary shops, the well-supplied Restaurant Franqais, the thousand cases of delicious foreign wines piled up in every street, the bales of goods, the lively crowd of sellers and buyers, the gay pro- menaders in every street, had vanished, and the reign of the black-browed despot Death was evident. On alighting at the fonda, it was difficult to find even a single person to speak to, all the doors being opened, every apartment at liberty. Under such circumstances, our artists and their escort could select their own quarters easily — the latter being accustomed to lodge in one room to the number of a dozen or more ; and soon the whole party was very ANNA IN MEXICO. 283 comfortably domiciled for the night, after the coach had been emptied of its contents. Shortly after, Don Guglio arrived, bringing the melancholy intel- ligence that the African had died of cholera as soon as he returned to the village. Anna, with her ac- customed generosity, immediately ordered a man to mount his horse, and to take to the Alcalde of the village forty dollars, to pay his funeral expenses ; but Don Guglio represented that the sixty piastres which el Caballero Bochsa had given to Alonzo in advance at Guadalajara, had been found in his pocket, and that with it the Alcalde had already paid all the expenses, and retained a sum which he had promised to send to the family of the deceased. The sad news affected deeply the whole escort party. Instead of eating supper as usual, and passing cheerful hours afterwards in the court-yard, they all retired to their rooms, and spent most of the night in prayer and in sad meditation. Before starting in the morning they also attended divine service at the Cathedral. On leaving the desolated town, the party was saluted, on ascending the hill which brings again into view the grandioso plateau, by the cawing of • ^ 24* 284 ANNA IN MEXICO. numberless crows, which were so sociable as almost to thrust their heads within the coach. With a most dolorous countenance, Don Luis remarked that this visit was ominous of evil. Doubtless the whole escort coincided with his opinion, for they crossed themselves several times and avoided the intruders as much as they could. At last the sable-winged company left, and as Anna had promised to Alvarado some twenty piastres if, instead of seven days, they should reach Mexico in four or five, the whole con- cern went ^^ ventre cl terre'^ all the way. It indeed was surprising that the old Pompadour, loaded as it was, considering the bad state of the roads, could travel so fast, without knocking itself into a thou- sand pieces. It had originally been Anna's intention, in coming back from Guadalajara, to sing again at some of the places she had visited before ; but the fear of the cholera, and political as well as religious dissensions which had lately taken place, particularly at Que- retaro, caused her to abandon the project. Thus the only city she selected for one concert was Guanajato, almost on her way to the capital, and celebrated for its silver mines, great richness of soil, the wealth ANNA IN MEXICO. 285 of its people, and general salubrity. But ere our adventurous travellers reached the city so famed for plata, they were doomed to undergo another incident of a serio-comico nature, with a band of " Dille- TANTi Robbers." The party was not far from Leon, still travelling at a furious rate, for Alvarado was determined to earn his promised reward. Bochsa was complacently "laying back" in the belle Pompadour; the queenly Anna was glancing from time to time at the wild and romantic scenery which passed like a panoramic view before her eyes, or perchance dreaming of her beHutiful villa in sunny Italy ; but both, no doubt, glad that every crack of the whip distanced them from the parts the most infected by the epidemic disease. Suddenly they heard the clattering of hoofs, and soon, over a small hill on the right hand side of the road, three men, well mounted, came galloping toward the coach. They were masked, dressed and armed in regular Ladrone style, their belts full of pistols, &c., and did not present the most inviting appearance, especially as they were about to enter the presence of a lady. One of them rode before the coach and, presenting, as is usual 286 ANNA IN MEXICO. in such rencontre, an enormous eseopette at the head of the cochero major, who immediately stopped his mules. Anna, brave as she is beautiful and gifted, had in the meantime cocked her little revolver ; Bochsa had drawn from under the cushioned seat a pair of pistols which had laid there perdu for weeks ; and the escort, all but one or two, who were oblivious just then, had drawn up en hattaille, when one of the strangers dismounted and came to the carriage-door. In the most gentlemanly manner, he doffed his som- brero, and, to the surprise of every one, addressed the lady Anna thus : " Senora, do not be alarmed ; we do not intend to take from you your valuable bijoux, or your splendid costumes ; we wish only to rob you of a song. When you first honored our country with a visit, we had the pleasure of hearing you; Since then our duties on the road, which required us to replenish purses made empty by visiting at Mexico your con- certs and Montplaisir's ballet troupe, and also by a little gambling, occasioned mostly by the enthusiasm and excitement we were constantly in, by attending the above-named delicious performances, we were ANNA IN MEXICO. 287 prevented from following your troupe and listening to your dulcet notes. We have heard of the fame you have won in the ' Pasadita,' and we are here for the sole purpose of respectfully asking you to favor us with that beautiful Mexican song." "What!" asked Anna, more amused than terri- fied, "here, in the middle of the road?" " We shall not be disturbed," replied the cabal- lero. " Our men guard the pass above and below, and no intruders can advance. Besides, Senora hel- lissima, we are not so exigeant as to ask you to dress in costume, though reports speak very highly of the beauty of your Mexican costume and the grace with which you wear it. We will not even demand that the gifted Maestro Bochsa puts on his splendid con- cert dress (here Bochsa bowed very low) ; let him only have his harp down, to accompany you, and we ■will be satisfied, and kiss your feet a thousand times."* This conversation being heard by all the escorte, * A very common expression among- Castilian and Mexican gallants, but probably never carried into actual practice. — Editor. 288 ANNA IN MEXICO. dismissed their fears ; and, enjoying the joke, they handed down the precious harp-case, -s^'hich had been stowed between the soft mattresses on the top of the coach. Bochsa proceeded quickly to prepare his instru- ment. Anna was gracefully handed from the car- riage by the caballero who had spoken before, he paying her every respectful attention, gracefully putting the shawl over her shoulders, &c. Night was approaching. A stone, surmounted by a wooden cross, which intimated that some ladrone or mur- dered traveller lay beneath it, was the seat on which Bochsa placed himself, having la belle Anna on his right. lie cast himself in his usual attitude, looked heavenward, like David of old seeking for inspira- tion, and struck the first notes of his prelude. " Oh Dios !" he exclaimed ; " two strings broken.; I cannot go on." ^^ Caramha ! vea listed ;" said, rather impatiently, one of the caballeros, showing his white teeth glit- tering behind his jetty moustache and drawing a pistol from his belt ; " do not take too much trouble. We have but little time to wait; beside the fair scnora mi2;ht catch cold. Begin !" ANNA IN MEXICO. 289 "^ la disposicione de usted,'' replied Bochsa, in shrugging his shoulders a la FrarK^aise ; but he spake not another word. Anna was, as usual, in good voice ; and the stran- gers were so pleased with the Pasadita that she was obliged to repeat it. Loud and long were the plaudits. " BravOy bravissimo ! excellentissimo /" rung through the air. " Cfratia, Linda Senora^ celebre Maestro !" &c., were the echoes. The cabal- leros now reconducted Anna to the coach, with infi- nite politeness. They thanked the artists with many fervent expressions, then mounted their horses, and disappeared as they came, in a rapid gallop. When the "robbers" were out of sight, the harp replaced in its case, and Don Luis Cortez taken out of the coach-net, where, merely par precaution, he had snugly hidden himself, Bochsa said to Anna : " Ma cherCj nous sommes joues. Ces aimables voleurs sont des messieurs de Leon, qui ont voulu nous faire peur !" "And they succeeded pretty well," answered Anna, archly. "You did look a little nervous. Maestro mio, when seated on that rough stone ; and 290 ANNA IN MEXICO. I do not forget you made two or three slight errors in your harp accompaniment, eh !" " If I appeared alarmed, it was only for you, fair lady," replied Bochsa, brandishing his harp-key most terrifically ; " and I hold myself ready to attack the first vile gachupino who would dare to approach you." "Thank you, caro maestro," said Anna, bowing low her graceful head, at the same time presenting the chevalier with a glass of fine Madeira, Avhich at once "washed away the frowns upon his indignant face. VOYAGE RESUMED. The equipage being once more in order, Bochsa uttered the well-known command " Vamos !" and off they went, not without the maestro looking anxiously around to see where the escort was, and saying, sotto voce, " Cowards ! poltroons !" &c. " And those coxcombs to hear the Pasadita gratis ! What cabal- leros ! what a country !" At Leon the famous and ever-to-be-remembered secretary, Alfred, rejoined Bochsa, bringing a dread- ANNA IN MEXICO. 291 ful account of the ravages of the plague at Guada- lajara% The number of deaths were daily increasing, and every body who could leave had flown to Yepsic, some leagues from Guadalajara, and as yet free from ^ the fearful malaria, but uncommonly well stocked with Ladrones and Indians of the worst kind. The secretary's medical services had been so much ia request, that it was only by special favor of the Governor that he could leave in the last diligencia which was permitted to depart from the doomed city during the existence of the scourge. Their delay at Leon was short. Madame Anna and Bochsa visited their banker and closed J;heir fiscal arrangements with him, and left the city early the next morning for Guanajato ; having already despatched Alfred, by diligencia^ to that place, to arrange for the concert, and make friends with those powerful allies, the apothecaries. 25 GUANAJATO. Nothing occurred to disturb the serenity of Madame Anna, or the nerves of El Oahallero Don Carlos ; and in safety they reached the above-named city, the suburbs of Tyhich are extremely picturesque. For some two miles the narrow road wound around among gentle slopes, covered with trees in full bloom and verdure, though it was in January. Flowers car- peted the earth ; rivulets ran here and there in silvery threads, cooling the air with the spray of little cascades ; birds made sweet music on every hand. But here, as everywhere else, the hand of man had marred the. beauteous face of nature. The few houses which our party saw wore a gloomy and unpleasant aspect, having no windows in front, but, instead, large holes, like the port-holes in the lower batteries of a fort, through which all the garbage and slops of the house were cast. This to a great degree destroyed the charm of the beautiful scenery. (292) ANNA IN MEXICO. 293 The city is built among and on the tops of a mass of rocks and small hills, without regard to regularity. While a wayward poet might admire, a Philadelphia Quaker would be horrified at such an utter disregard of the science of angles and squares. Many of the rock-perched houses literally seemed to be hanging in the air. There is not a more gay and animated place in Mexico than Guanajato. The main sti'ee.t, in particular, is full of life and bustle, its large and elegant trottoirs being filled with little stalls, where are sold many curious specimens fi"om the mines, wax dolls, rich and pretty bijouterie, not unfashionable ladies' caps and bonnets, and many other things. The Governor and other officers of the State, as well as many of the proprietors of the mines, inhabit elegant palaces, furnished with rare taste and beauty. Very few carriages are seen, the streets being so hilly and also so narrow. In fact, it was not with- out considerable trouble that the ponderous equipage — the sight of which, with its load of baggage and formidable escort, caused quite a commotion — could reach the " meson" (a very handsome one too), with- out accident. The secretary, with his usual prompti- tude, had already agreed on terms with " El 4.utorj" 294 ANNA IN MEXICO. or the manager of the theatre, bills had been printed, and his friends, the apothecaries, had, while vending pills and nostrums, sent abroad, like the perfume of their own cologne, the gladsome news, that the citi- zens of Guanajato were about to have an extraordi- nary musical treat. Thus every thing was ready for Anna's concert ; the people were all on the qui vive to hear the far-famed cantatrice and the renowned harpist Bochsa. The theatre is very large, and, singular for a Mexican theatre, in fine order. On the night of the concert every seat was taken. The house, outside, was brilliantly illuminated with lanterns of various colours ; the principal entrances tastefully decorated with beautiful flowers and orange-leaves ; and our prima donna, whose travels had not impaired her loveliness, nor the terrors through which she had passed, paled her cheek, was received with enthu- siasm ; but the Pasadita and Oatalumba took them perfectly by storm. Anna was encored in each three times ; and even then they seemed, like the charity- boy of " Oliver Twist," to wish "for more. Though Anna and the Maestro were anxious to hasten on to Mexico, to arrange an engagement which had been ANNA IN MEXICO. , 295 proposed at the Teatre Nacionale, the citizens of Guanajato would not for a moment listen to her leaving, without giving another lyric entertainment. She acceded to their pressing requests, and again every seat was filled, and even the standee places occupied. 25 THE CAPITAL ONCE MORE. We ■will pass over the journey to the capital, for it brought no new adventures to our artists. Not a robber, with murderous escopette, or a ranchero with lasso and lance, met them to insist on hearing the Pasadita gratis, or to discommode the temper of the portly Bochsa, who, when the family melon rolled in over the causeway of the ancient city of the Monte- zumas, looked the very picture of happiness. The artists were soon comfortably settled at the magnificent private house of the brothers Laurent, where, by the kind offices of a friend, elegant apart- ments had been obtained. This abode, more quiet and private than the rooms which Anna had occu- pied at the Bazaar Hotel, had the great advantage not to have a fonda on the premises. The Messrs. Laurent were celebrated cuisiniers Frangais, of the first class, and having amassed a large fortune in the country, they had retired from general business, (296) ANNA IN MEXICO. 297 composing delicate diners and fine soupers^ for the aristocracy only. Eut on this occasion, knowing the epicurean taste of our artists, they kindly consented to superintend their table, an arrangement which especially gave great satisfaction to Bochsa, who has an utter horror of bad cooking and poor wines. Being now settled, the maestro dismissed the old coach and the escort. He made also inquiries re- specting Don Pepe Silva, who, it will be recollected, absconded with pistols and money belonging to him, and learned that the worthy was in the city, ready to take part in a revolution which was much talked of.* Bochsa wished to put Don Pepe Silva * In that country of cunning and distrust, it is surprising how openly people speak of conspirations and changes of Go- vernment. While on the subject, it will not be hors de propos, I hope, to relate an anecdote recoiinled to nie by Mr. Bochsa. A gentleman of influence in society, and in the army, and an acquaintance of our artists, called one morning to pay a visit to Madame Anna. That gentleman had travelled all over Europe, spoke French and English fluently, and being witty and well- informed, his conversation was very agreeable. On his being invited by our artists to dine with them on the following day, his reply was, that he would be most happy to come, if all teas over in good time. " What is to be over ?" asked Bochsa. " Oli, maestro, only une bagatelle Mcxicaine. The fact is," continued 298 ANNA IN MEXICO. in jail, but was advised by friends not to try sucb a thing, as much time and money would be spent with- out bringing matters to an issue, Don Pepe being the gentleman, " that the present government is very unpopular, and the opposition party has decided to get rid of all the mem- bers of it, and to get themselves in power. Of course, the actual President, Herrera, is to fall with his ministers. If they offer no resistance, all will be settled quietly ; but if they do, they will be stabbed or shot, sans merci. To-morrow is the day fixed upon. Part of the army is already on our side. Plenty of money and pulque were given yesterday ^o the soldiers, and success is certain. Having free access to the President's apartments," added he, with great nonchalance, " the leaders of the plot had chosen me to shoot Herrera, in case of necessity; but I refused positively, as he is a good sort of a fellow, and has been friendly to me on several occasions." " But do you think," said Anna, "that the nation will be happier by this change?" "That, ma chere dame, I really do not know," answered her visitor with a sigh, "as, in my opinion, there is not a man in the whole country with ^^ufficient nerve and abili- ties to rule us properly. Santa Anna, perhaps, could have some chance . . . .; but — " " \yhy, then," said Bochsa, "risk your life in mixing up with schemes you do not entirely ap- prove ■?" " This question of yours, caro caballero, I have made often to myself," replied the gentleman, "and, as I am not a bonnet rouge outre, or a legitimiste quand mime, I assure you both, mes amis, that if it was not for the sake of some exalted friends, who think I can serve their party, I would rather remain a spectator than be an actor in this tragic drama. Mais (get- ANNA IN MEXICO. 299 a Mexican, and belonging to the army. Therefore, El Maestro was obliged to put up with the loss of his pistols. Anna wanting an elegant equipage, Bochsa looked about for the coachman Napoleon ; but that impor- tant person had made money enough, through the liberality of his employers, to start for California, and accordingly had vamosed. However, soon our peerless prima donna was provided with a handsome New Yoi'k barouche, and all proper appendages. The engagement at the National Theatre having been effected, the Lady Anna, thanks to those scien- tific and deliciose compositions of the Brothers Laurent, and also to the trahajo of the magnanimous ting up and standing before Anna's Psyche, to improve the tie of his handsome satin cravat) "je ne puis reculer. Adieu done, belle dame; au revoir, chevalier, si tout va bien." The whole of next morning the city was quiet as usual ; but about one o'clock, P. M., Bochsa, going out in the direction of the Government palace, saw on the flat top of it, armed men and cannon. Near four, our artists' guest arrived, seeming in the best possible humor, announcing that the conspiration had been discovered, and that Herrera had taken energetic measures to repress (at least for the present) any attempt at a revolution. As for the chiefs 6f the intended coup (Telat, although they were pretty well known, no notice was taken of them.. — Editor, 300 - ANNA IN MEXICO. Bochsa, was soon prepared in mind and body to appear in her best scenes in costumes. Again, as in the summer, the favorite Queen of Song met with complete success. Every night when she sung, the • "National" was crowded to excess, and the treasury was surprisingly prosperous, which was the more astonishing, because the Government employes, who, generally, are the principal supporters of public amusements, had for months received but small parts of their salaries ; in fact some had received nothing. The ministers of state, heads of the army, &c., in this particular, were as badly off as the hum- blest clerk and poorest soldado. But to hear Anna, the great prima donna, they were determined, and found the means ; hoiv, it is none of our business. At this time, the indefatigable Bochsa, a modern Cagliostro, who knows no impossibility, learned that Verdis music had never been publicly heard in Mexico, and he conceived the idea of adapting a sacred subject to some of the best pieces from Nabuco, i Lombard!, Giovana d'Arco, &c. The grand episode of Judith was chosen, and Bochsa, providing himself with a Bible, wrote the whole libretto in French, so that his secretary could trans- ANNA IN MEXICO. 301 late it into Spanish prose. This being done, Senor Juan Miguel de Losada, a distinguished poet, was applied to bj the managers, to put the prose into blank verse to suit the music; which was rather a dilBBcult affair for the poet, he being utterly unac- quainted with musical rhythm. But with the aid of that "Admirable Crichton" of a man, the won- derful secretary, who was a musician as well as a doctor, a poet withal, and an excellent Italian and Spanish scholar, besides being something of an actor, our maestro was soon provided with a very fair Spanish libretto of the biblical spectacle, in five tableaux. Of course Anna was to be the Judith ; and every one who has since seen and heard her in that impressive character, will acknowledge her transcendent merits as an actress and vocalist. Bochsa, who so well knows and estimates her powers, had selected for her the most popular soprani songs of Verdi, while the most effective chorusses, concerted pieces and marches from Na- buco, which could be properly adapted to the sub- ject, were introduced through the work with great effect. Anna, with that facility which has surprised the people of every nation which she has visited. 302 ANNA IN MEXICO. learned her arduous part in Spanish in less than a week. The tenor Zanini, whose predilection for roasted fowls and Bordeaux wine had not diminished since we last met him, was to be the Elchior, an Israelite General, and a cathedral basso profundo the Grand Priest, and the chorusses were studying hard. The orchestra, with a black gentleman as leader, named Delgado (Senor Chavez, the former director, having left), was also getting ready, under the tuition of the exhaustless Bochsa. Scene-painters, costumiers, &c., worked night and day. A full rehearsal of Judith, before a critical body of amateurs, had created the greatest sensation among the dilettanti, when Anna received a letter from her relatives in England, informing her of the death of her mother. Those who have seen Anna, have heard her sing, have heard her pour forth her very soul in melody, for- getful of the audience before her, lost in the cha- racter she was performing, must know what a feeling heart throbs in her bosom. Those who have read but a few pages back, how she sorrowed for the suf- ferings of a poor dying negro, and forgot her own safety and comfort to render him aid, when she was i ANNA IN MEXICO. 303 breathing the infectious air of death, can estimate hovf feeling she is. Judge then how like the bursting of a thunder-cloud upon a tender flower that sad news came upon her. Music, theatre, interest, all was at once forgotten. A note to the manager of the theatre cancelled her engagement immediately. For a whole month she passed her time in utter seclusion : she wept a mother's loss ; she recalled the past. Pale grew her cheek ; her eyes, erst so brilliant with the light of hope, of joy, of triumph, dimmed with the heart-storms' rain. "Oh who, that ever knew a mother's love, Or felt a mother's fond caress, A mother's tender care, her magic power In either joy or wo to bless. But would not, when the step of Death was heard, In wailing accents of despair, Exclaim, ' Oh, God of Heaven ! take thou the hud. But yet that full-blown blossom spare.' " Yes, from the grief that the devoted daughter exhibited, we can well imagine that she Avould sooner herself have died than to have lost one so dear. But the decrees of Providence are immutable. Anna's health had failed very much during her 26 304 ANNA IN MEXICO. seclusion. The season was fast approaching when Vera Cruz would again be sickly ; fears were enter- tained that the cholera Avould soon reach the capital ; therefore, by the advice of him who sympathized with her as a father would with a stricken child (the noble-hearted Bochsa), preparations were made for leaving the country. Baggage was packed and sent on ahead, and all other necessary arrangements made. And now for a retrograde digressive. The reader must excuse the writer hereof; he is a wilful man, and "a wilful man will have his way." "LE COUP DE PISTOLET." The follo"wing scene, "not down in the bills," oc- curred during Madame Anna's engagement, just previous to her receiving the sad news announced in a preceding page. Of course, it should have been told before; but it will do here — Vaut mieux tard que jamais. The hero of the adventure was our notable medico- poetico - secretario, Alfred, who, on this occasion, proved himself a staunch and devoted, though some- what reckless, friend to our artists. But the fault, if fault there was, was one of the head rather than the heart. Now to our story. A newspaper having inserted a violent article against Madame Anna and Bochsa (at the instiga- tion, we were informed, of the Priest party), Alfred, without saying any thing to Bochsa, tried to find out the author. At first he was unsuccessful, but after- wards, by some means, he succeeded in discovering 2^) * (305) 306 ANNA IN MEXICO. the dastardly miscreant who had anonymously tried to injure those who had not wTonged him. The man was a gambler, of disreputable character, known to mix up with political and artistic matters, always for some dark purpose. Yet the brave-hearted Alfred, acting in this affair without the knowledge of Bochsa, condescended to challenge him. The cartel was of course declined by the well-known coward. Alfred, enraged by such pusillanimous conduct, publicly stated that he would cane the man whenever or wherever he could meet with him. On hearing of this, the vile scribbler kept out of the way, and for a time no one could say where he had hidden him- self. However, one evening, when Anna was per- forming at the theatre, in the opera L'JEUsir d' Amove, Bochsa conducting the orchestra, the hot- headed secretary, after having attended to the sale of tickets in the box-office (which stands in a corner of the large peristyle conducting to the interior of the theatre), was about leaving to go behind the scenes to report to Bochsa the amount of receipts, when he saw under the peristyle the very villain he had been so long hunting for, accompanied by ano- ther person. The gallant Alfred, choleric as men ANNA IN MEXICO. 307 of his nation ever are, though only armed with a small cane, sprang out, seized the miscreant by the collar, and told him that if he still refused to give him personal satisfaction, or to retract the vile article he had written, he would placard him throirgh the city as a coward, unworthy of the society of men. At that moment, the covrardly scribbler drew a six-barrelled revolver from beneath his waistcoat and, taking deliberate aim at the secretary, fired. But the latter, agile as a bird, threw himself behind one of the columns which support the dome. The villain, observing by this that Alfred was unarmed, followed up his murderous intent, by pursuing his antagonist and snapping a second barrel full in his face, his life only being saved by the failure of the pistol to explode. A thjrd time did the assassin raise his hand, but a few persons, who had witnessed the aflFray, sprang forward and, diverting the atten- tion of the assailant, fairly forced the brave secre- tary, against his will, into the box-office, which they locked on him. A few police-men, and the judge of the theatre, attracted by the report of the pistol, were soon on the spot, but, strange to say, made no 26* 808 ANNA IN MEXICO. attempt to arrest the fiend, but permitted him to walk coolly away, unmolested. The operatic performance had not been disturbed by the tragic afiair, although the faint sound of the pistol had reached the interior of the theatre. It was only after the opera was over, that our artists heard that their secretary had been shot at by some unknown person, but that he was unhurt. No other details could be given them, and they hastened home, in hopes of there seeing Alfred, and learning the particulars of the assault, which had amazed both Anna and Bochsa ; for they had not read the news- paper article, and knowing the secretary to be ordi- narily a very correct and prudent man, could not imagine how he could have made an enemy. They, beside, had lived very retired, while hurrying to complete the spectacle of Judith. On arriving at their lodgings, a servant handed them a card which had been left by the secretary a few minutes before, on which he begged the maestro to excuse him if he was not present until morning. This message aug- mented Bochsa's perplexity ; for he is very precise in business, no matter how carelessly he wandered over the harp-strings before the amateur ladrones of ANNA IN MEXICO. 309 Leon, and never before had Alfred failed, ere he retired to rest, to settle the pecuniary aifairs of the evening, and receive his orders for the next day's business. Bochsa despatched a servant to the Bazaar Hotel ; but he had not been seen, though he always lodged there. It was near midnight, and our artists had no other recourse, but to wait till morning, to get some information respecting this mysterious affair. Bochsa was up early. His servant informed him that after he had retired to bed the night before, the French ambassador, M. Levasseur, had called, seem- ing very anxious to know where Monsieur Alfred was. That extraordinary young man had the secret power to make friends and patrons everywhere. His amiable qualities, versatile talents, pleasing address, and being of noble origin, had created an extraor- dinary interest in the ambassador's family, hence the visit of his excellency at midnight to learn the particulars of the attack made on his countryman. Time went on, and no tidings of the secretary. Both Anna and Bochsa were so annoyed, that Messrs. Laurents' choicest compositions pour de- jeuner were neglected. Bochsa grew fidgety ; he 310 ANNA IN MEXICO. was in fact getting rather out of temper, when Mr. M , an acquaintance of Alfred and of our artists, carne and narrated all the circumstances of the affair, adding that his young friend, knowing how strongly Bochsa was opposed to any one becoming the cham- pion of artists, without authority, and, by so doing, to give importance to ignorant and malicious criti- cisms or squibs, which never else would be noticed, did not like to venture into his presence, and meet the maestro's anger, without first having all explained, and being assured of the forgiveness of Bochsa, for having transgressed his imperative rules, pleading as his excuse the motives which induced the act. Bochsa felt vexed, for he foresaw that a great deal of trouble and annoyance to all parties would be experienced, before public excitement, in that hot-bed of disorder, could be allayed. But, on the other hand, reflecting that the foolish man had jeopardized his life for the sake of his employers, he told Mr. M , that he did not entertain any bad feeling against Alfred, and would do any thing to serve him ; but that, as he had transgressed his positive orders, so often expressed, not to put himself into unnecessary broils, without telling him, particularly, ANNA IN MEXICO. 311 as the fair name of Madame Anna might be com- promised by such imprudent actions, he could not in future acknowledge him publicly as his confidential man. What Bochsa disliked, publicity, could not be pre- vented. On the next day, all the city papers gave long accounts of the affray, with more or less embellishment ; but it is justice to say, that the whole press praised highly tlie secretary's spirited conduct, while they severely condemned the police and the government for their extraordinary careless- ness, in allowing the guilty man to go at liberty. At last, the general fermentation getting up to a fever heat, and the French ambassador becoming troublesome in his demands for justice in this case of a French subject, the vile calumniator and assassin was arrested ; but, to the utter astonishment of every one, the unfortunate Alfred was also taken into custody, on the charge of having sent a challenge. The two prisoners were first consigned to a jail of the worst description ; bijt again the French ambassador interfered for his young countryman, and, becoming security for his appeara?>cc at the trial, secured his partial liberty, he being confined 312 ANNA IN MEXICO. to the barracks of the French Guards, "where he not only enjoyed all possible comfort, but was permitted to take a walk at night in the city. But, as we would not wish to revert again to this famous, or rather infamous " Coup de Pistolet," I will say here, that in Mexico, as well as in other parts of the globe, Justice is lazy as well as blind, for when our artists left the capital to embark for the United States (May 10, 1850), the trial had hardly begun, and there was no prospect of its speedy termination. A VISIT TO THE PRESIDENT OF THE REPUBLIC. His Excellency General Herrera, having been very kind to the Dona Anna during her stay in the country, and having courteously accepted the dedica- tion of a Hymne N^acionale, composed by Bochsa, and intended to be performed at all the grand' public solemnities (the words being spiritedly written by Senor de Lasada), our artists were anxious, before their final departure, to pay their respects to him ; and their friend General Vanderlinden, having ob- tained permission for an interview with his excel- lency, came one evening at eight o'clock, to conduct them before the chief of the state, who resided in a portion of the Government Palace, in the Plaza de la Cathedral. On leaving their carriage in. the Plaza, our party found themselves in the Porter's Hall, which was so badly lighted that it was with diffi- culty that Anna and Bochsa, who were unacquainted 27 '■ (313) 314 ANNA IN MEXICO. "with the locality, followed General V to the grand staircase. At the foot of this, two soldiers were stationed, mere boys in ^pearance. Our artists went throi^h many immense reception-rooms, some not lighted at all, others with but a single candela in immense chandeliers, which could contain thirty or forty easily. Not a soul was seen, and all looked so dismal and lonely, that one could easily fancy himself to be wandering through an old chateau, haunted and tenanted only by ghosts, instead of in the gay and splendid abode of a Mex- ican ruler. At the end of a dark passage stood a huge iron door, some seven or eight feet high. It was closed, but was opened immediately, on a par- ticular watchword being given by their conductor, General V . Our artists -were now in the private apartments of his excellency ; but the same darkness reigned here, the same solitude existed as before ; and our party was preceded only by a servant with a flat candlestick in his hands. The General told our artists to be seated a few moments in the draw- ing-room, while he would inform his excellency that they were in waiting. Soon he returned, and the Lady Anna and Bochsa were introduced into a ANNA IN MEXICO. 315 spacious drawing-room, in which their conductor said the President was. As this saloyi was also dark, like the rest, our artists looked vainly around, to see •whither they should direct their steps, or where make their premiere oheissance. Bochsa, heing somewhat near-sighted, was in quite a cruel dilemma ; but the bright eyes of the prima donna discovered, near a distant window, a small table, upon which dimly burned two flickering candles. Near the table was a large arm-chair, and in it was seated his excellency. The President received his visitors with great affa- bility, asking Anna many questions regarding her provincial tour in the Mexican country, and thanking the Chevalier Bochsa for his dedication of the Symne Nacionale. He addressed, afterward. Ge- neral Vanderlinden, wJio was his private physician, in regard to his health ; and our artists, taking this as a "cue" for their exit, made their excuses and left the presence of the President. The General accompanied Anna to her carriage, and, chemin faisant, Bochsa remarked to him, that the President did not seem to have an extravagant establishment, and inquired the amount of his salary as chief of the state, or rather of the republic. 27 316 ANNA IN MEXICO. " One hundred piastres per day," replied the General ; " not always paid very punctually. But," added Vanderlinden, " Herrera, though not the right man to head so vast and various a country as this, has the merit of being a good husband and father, and no doubt is as economical as possible, knowing that, in the disturbed state of the country, where revolutions are ever working, like volcanoes in a mountain, an eruption of the lava-minded people may occur, and he be assassinated or turned from oflfice, without an hour's notice." The artists returned to their lodgings to make preparations for the FINAL DEPARTURE. Anna, being in deep mourning, was prevented from calling on her numerous friends, but was obliged to send her "P. P. C." cards and sad notes of adieu, to the many who had been so kind to her. Her accounts being all settled, and her banker hav- ing transferred for her gold good paper on New York, London, and Naples, regretted by her many friends, the favorite Anna and the popular Bochsa ANNA IN MEXICO. 317 left Mexico for Vera Cruz, in the diligencia, on the 10th of May, and, passing without adventure through romantic Puebla, over the famous Punta Nacionale, and by the blood-stained heights of Cerro Gordo, they reached Vera Cruz in a few days afterward. There they went immediately on board of her Bri- tannic Majesty's steamer the " Severn," on their way to Mobile, where they intended, amidst its amiable and genteel society, to enjoy a few days of repose, before returning to the busy metropolis of the New World, New York. Not a week elapsed, after Anna left the capital of Mexico, before the palace and the cot, the hovel and the barrack, resounded with the groans of the suffering and the dying: the cholera had reached the great city. Vive la bonne etoile de T enchanteresse Anna; and Heaven grant that it ever shine brighter and brighter ! THE END. 6285 11 This book is DUE on the last date stamped below University of California SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 305 De Neve Drive - Parking Lot 17 • Box 951388 LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA 90095-1388 Return this material to the library from which It was borrowed. 'Mi NON-RENEVfABLE JUL 1 9 2005 DUE 2 WKS FROM OATf; RECEIVED UCLA ACCESS SEPVIC. Interlibrary Loan 1 1 630 University (Research Libraf y Box 951 575 ^o3 Angeles, CA S|0O95-l 575 UCLA COL LIB q£C G 7 RECEIVED 2007 UNIYERWTY irf OALTPORNlA: L( J AA 001 039 823 8