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AN ESSAY- 
 
 ENCROACHMENTS OF THE GERMAN OCEAN 
 
 ALONG THE NORFOLK COAST, 
 
 A DESIGN TO ARREST ITS FURTHER DEPREDATIONS; 
 
 DEDICATED 
 
 TO THE RIGHT HONOURABLE THE 
 
 LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTY. 
 
 Bv W. HEWITT, Surgeon. 
 
 NORWICH : 
 
 PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR, 
 
 BY MATCHETT, STEVENSON, AND MATCHETT, MARKET-PLACE. 
 
 SOLD ALSO BY EDWARDS AND HUGHES, 12, AVE-MARIA-LANE, LONDON. 
 
 1844. 
 

 DEDICATION 
 
 2h the Right Honourable the Lords Connnissioners 
 of the Admirally, 
 
 My Lords and Gentlemen, 
 
 A communication with your Lordships in 
 1B43, led me to infer that an Essay upon the 
 interesting subject connected with the present 
 inquiry, would be received with a degree of at- 
 tention according to its merits, and the import- 
 ance of the object connected with it. But 
 should you, in your superior wisdom, perceive 
 sufficient evidence has not been advanced to 
 render it deserving the consideration requisite 
 at your hands, future proofs may arise upon the 
 foundation contained in the following pages. — 
 On the contrary, should it meet with your ap- 
 
 ivl3?2'M6 
 
probation, the high and honourable position 
 you maintain for the benefit of maritime aftairs 
 will, I trust, induce you to exercise your in- 
 fluence towards effecting a trial of the plan sub- 
 mitted, for the benefit of the community at large, 
 and for the honour and credit of your noble 
 establishment. 
 
 I am, 
 
 My Lords and Gentlemen, 
 Your very humble and obliged Servant, 
 
 THE AUTHOR. 
 
PREFACE, 
 
 Many pcrs^ons may consider it a remarkable 
 circnmstance, that an individual, whose pro- 
 fession requires his leisure time to be devoted 
 to the acquirement of knowledge for the com- 
 fort of man in his corporeal ailments, should 
 find an opportunity to direct considerable atten- 
 tion to a subject, so very different in character, 
 as the one now submitted to the reader.* The 
 suggestions, however, of a near, respected, and 
 venerable relative, aroused and stimulated me 
 to make the strictest investigation, and sub- 
 sequently led to the submitting a plan or de- 
 
 * The Autlior may probably, on a future occasion, communicate 
 all the circumstances connected with the above, as they will afford 
 an amusing, interesting, and instructive lesson, corroborating the 
 testimony of the Poet, 
 
 '' From little causes great effects arise." 
 
sign for future benefit, not only to the mariner, 
 the merchant, the ship-owner, to those whose 
 landed property lies contiguous to the ocean, 
 but what is of still greater consequence, the 
 preservation of human life ; and although an 
 abler and a more experienced individual might 
 have given a better statement, or submitted a 
 better design, yet it is hoped sufficient will be 
 found in this first and hasty attempt, to excite 
 the attention of the learned and the wealthy. 
 
 An acknowledgment of the truth, a grateful 
 feeling for the assistance derived for the most 
 important particulars on this interesting subject, 
 induces me to introduce the name, with the ex- 
 ertions of my venerable relative to the notice of 
 my readers. 
 
 The Rev. John Hewitt, B. A., Perpetual 
 Curate of Walcot, in this county. Vicar of 
 Grantchester, and formerly a Fellow of Corpus 
 Christi College, Cambridge, after several years 
 of often repeated attention to the subject em- 
 braced in this Essay, expended in the year A.D. 
 1802 upwards of one hundred pounds in an at- 
 tempt to fill up, at his own expence, the worst 
 breach existing between Waxham and Horsey, 
 
and the design to carry it into effect appeared 
 so feasible, that to lessen the expence, the Hon. 
 Harbord Harbord, the first Lord Snffield, lent 
 implements to aid the undertaking. But un- 
 fortunately, prior to the task being completed, 
 a strong north-west wind, upon a spring tide, 
 ensued, and a quantity of water passed through 
 the breach partially repaired. 
 
 A cottager residing near the place, witnessed 
 the circumstance only just previous to the irrup- 
 tion of the water, and informed my relative had 
 he possessed a shovel, he could have prevented 
 it. 
 
 The circumstance attending this catastrophe 
 caused in little minds derision and contempt, 
 from the failure of the experiment. But a hum- 
 ble individual, whose ideas were more enlarged, 
 contended upwards of three liundred pounds 
 worth of good had been effected ; and the sf)ot 
 on that part of the coast is recognized to this 
 day as Hewitt's Bank. 
 
 While some persons, therefore, considered it 
 a direct failure, my relative deemed it a partial 
 one, and watched with undiminished ardour the 
 effect produced by the stranding of the Hunter 
 
cutter, A. D. 1807 ; the particulars of which are 
 fully entered into in the following pages. 
 
 A knowledge of the tides and currents has 
 been principally acquired from the perusal of 
 several works of the most renowned philoso- 
 phers, whose erudition have stamped them with 
 truth stable and incontrovertible. I have, there- 
 fore, adopted their language rather than my 
 own, fearful I should mar their intent, and my 
 regard for such comprehensive writings induces 
 me to add the truism transmitted to us by an 
 ancient Latin author — 
 
 Unius cetatis sunt quae fortiter Bunt, quae 
 Vero pro utilitate scribuntur aiterna. 
 
 Vegetius. 
 
 Should the design be put in execution, and 
 found efficacious, it will be applicable to other 
 coasts, by taking every particular respecting 
 them into consideration, and great will be the 
 reward on the ambition attained of having en- 
 deavoured to benefit the community at large. 
 
 THE AUTHOR. 
 
AN ESSAY 
 
 ENCROACHMENTS OF THE GERMAN OCEAN. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 INTRODUCTION. THE FORMATION OF THE TIDES CONSI- 
 DERED, THEIR VARIATION, AND EFFECTS. 
 
 For, lo ! the sea that fleets about the land, 
 And like a girdle clips her solid waste, 
 Music and measure both doth understand : 
 For his great crystal eye is always cast 
 Up to the moon, and on her fixed fast : 
 And as she danceth in her pallid sphere. 
 So danceth he about the centre here. 
 
 The above lines, so beautifully expressed by one of our 
 earlier poets, introduces a subject generally understood, 
 but the important object connected with our present in- 
 quiry cannot be maintained without a thorough know- 
 ledge of cause and effect. A minute acquaintance, there- 
 fore, with the formation of the tides and currents, their 
 variation and effects, transmitted to us by the observa- 
 tions, experiments, and discoveries of the earlier, and 
 confirmed by the researches of the modern philosophers, 
 will not be deemed altogether superfluous, as they will 
 
 B 
 
10 
 
 tend to remove any obstacle that might otherwise present 
 itself on the consideration of so difficult a subject. 
 
 By the term tide is meant that regular motion of the 
 sea, according to which it ebbs and flows twice in the 
 twenty-four hours. 
 
 After some wild conjectures of the earliest philoso- 
 phers, observes Goldsmith, it became well known in the 
 time of Pliny that the tides were entirely under the in- 
 fluence in a small degree of the sun, but in a much 
 greater of the moon. It was found that there was a flux 
 and reflux of the sea in the space of twelve hours and 
 fifty minutes, which is exactly the time of a lunar day. 
 It was observed that whenever the moon was in the meri- 
 dian, or in other words, as nearly as possible over any 
 part of the sea, that the sea flowed to that part, and 
 made a tide there; on the contrary, it was found that 
 when the moon left the meridian, the sea began to flow 
 back again from whence it came, and there might be said 
 to ebb. Thus far the waters of the sea seemed very re- 
 gularly to attend the motions of the moon. But as it 
 appeared, likewise, that when the moon was in the oppo- 
 site meridian, as far off" on the other side of the globe, 
 that there was a tide on this side also, so that the moon 
 produced two tides, one by her greatest approach to us, 
 and another by her greatest distance from us ; in other 
 words, the moon, in once going round the earth, pro- 
 duced two tides, always at the same time ; one, on the 
 part of the globe directly under her ; and the other, on 
 the part of the globe directly opposite. 
 
 Kepler was the first who conjectured that attraction 
 was the principal cause ; asserting, that the sphere of the 
 
moon's operation extended to the earth, and drew up its 
 waters. But what Kepler only hinted, has been com- 
 pletely developed and demonstrated by Sir Isaac Newton. 
 
 After his great discovery of the law of gravitation, he 
 found it an easy matter to account for the whole pheno- 
 mena of the tides. The moon, like all the rest of the 
 planets, has been found to attract and to be attracted by 
 the earth. This attraction prevails throughout our whole 
 planetary system ; the more matter there is contained in 
 any body, the more it attracts, and its influence decreases 
 in proportion as the distance, when squared, increases. 
 This being premised, let us see what must ensue upon 
 supposing the moon in the meridian of any tract of the 
 sea. The surface of the water immediately under the 
 moon, is nearer the moon than any part of the globe is, 
 and, therefore, must be more subject to its attraction than 
 the waters anywhere else. The waters will there be at- 
 tracted by the moon, and rise in a heap, whose eminence 
 will be the highest where the attraction is greatest. In 
 order to form this eminence, it is obvious that its surface, 
 as well as the depths, will be agitated, and that wherever 
 the water runs from one part, succeeding waters must run 
 to fill up the space it has left. Thus the waters of the 
 sea, running from all parts to attend the motion of the 
 moon, produce the flowing of the tide ; and it is high tide 
 at that part wherever the moon comes over it, or to its 
 meridian.* 
 
 But when the moon travels onward, and ceases to 
 point over the place where the waters were just risen, the 
 cause of their rising ceasing to operate, they will flow 
 
 * See Goldsmith's History of the Earth and Animated Nature, vol. 1, 
 p. 146. 
 
 B 2 
 
12 
 
 back by their natural gravity into the lower parts frcmi 
 whence they had travelled ; and this retiring of the waters 
 will form the ebbing of the sea.* 
 
 Thus the first part of the demonstration is obvious, 
 since in general it requires no great sagacity to conceive 
 that the waters nearest the moon are most attracted or 
 raised highest by the moon. But the other part of the 
 demonstration, namely, how there come to be high tides 
 at the same time on the other side of the globe is not so 
 easy to conceive. To comprehend this, it must be ob- 
 served, that the part of the earth and its waters farthest 
 from the moon, are the parts of all others that are least 
 attracted by the moon ; it must also be observed, that all 
 the waters, when the moon is on the opposite side of the 
 earth, must be attracted in the same direction that the 
 earth itself attracts them ; that is apparently quite through 
 the body of the earth, towards the moon itself. This, 
 therefore, being conceived, it is plain that those waters 
 which are farthest from the moon will have less weight 
 than those of any other part on the same side of the 
 globe, because the moon's attraction, which conspires 
 with the earth's attraction, is there least. Now, there- 
 fore, the waters farthest from the moon having less weight, 
 and being lightest, will be pressed on all sides by those 
 that having more attraction are heavier, and the heavier 
 waters flowing in, will make them swell and rise in an 
 eminence directly opposite to that on the other side of the 
 globe, caused by the more immediate influence of the 
 moon.t 
 
 In this manner the moon, in one diurnal revolution, 
 
 * Sec Goldsmith's History of the Earth and Animated Nature, vol. 1, 
 p. 146. t Ibid. p. 149 
 
13 
 
 produces two tides ; one raised immediately under the 
 sphere of its influence, and the other directly opposite to 
 it. As the moon travels, this vast body of waters rears 
 upward, as if to watch its motions, and pursues the same 
 constant rotation. However, in this great work of raising 
 the tides, the sun has no small share, it produces its own 
 tide constantly every day, just as the moon does, but in 
 a much less degree, because the sun is at an immensely 
 greater distance. Thus there are solar tides and lunar 
 tides — when the forces of these two great luminaries con- 
 cur, which they always do when they are either in the 
 same or in the opposite parts of the heavens, they jointly 
 produce a much greater tide, than when they are so situ- 
 ated in the heavens as each to make peculiar tides of their 
 own ; in the former, the attraction of the sun conspires 
 with the attraction of the moon, by which means the 
 high spring tides are formed ; in the latter, the action of 
 the sun is opposed to that of the moon, consequently the 
 effect must be to depress the waters where the moon's 
 action has a tendency to raise them, and hence the pro- 
 duction of the lower neap tides.* 
 
 The spring tidesf do not take place on the very day of 
 the new and full moon, nor the neap tides on the very 
 day of the quadratures, but a day or two after ; the effect 
 is neither greatest nor least when the immediate influence 
 of the cause is greatest or least : as the greatest heat, for 
 example, is not on the solstitial day, when the immediate 
 action of the sun is greatest, but some time after it. — 
 And although the action of the sun and moon were to 
 
 * Vide Goldsmith's History of the Earth and Animated Nature, vol. I, 
 p. 149. 
 
 t Upon this coast the swells continue greater three days after the new 
 and full j/ioon than when the latter is in her meridian. 
 
14 
 
 cease, yet the ocean would continue to ebb and flow for 
 some time, as its waves continue in violent motion for 
 some time after a storm.* 
 
 Sir Isaac Newton has shown that the tides increase as 
 the cube of the distances decrease, so that the moon, at 
 half her present distance, would produce a tide eight 
 times greater. Now the moon describes an ellipse about 
 the earth, and of course must be once in every revolution 
 nearer the earth than in any other part of her orbit ; con- 
 sequently she must produce a much higher tide when in 
 this point of her orbit than in the opposite point.f 
 
 This is the reason that two great spring tides never 
 take place immediately after each other ; for if the moon 
 be at her least distance at the time of new moon, she 
 must be at her greatest distance at the time of full moon, 
 having performed half a revolution in the intervening 
 time ; and, therefore, the spring tide at the full will be 
 much less than at the preceding change. For the same 
 reason, if a great spring tide happens at the time of full 
 moon, the tide at the following change will be less.j: 
 
 The spring tides are highest and the neap tides lowest 
 about the beginning of the year; for the earth being- 
 nearest the sun about the first of January, must be more 
 strongly attracted by that body than at any other time of 
 the year : hence the spring tides which happen about that 
 time, will be greater than at any other time, and should 
 the moon be new or full in that part of her orbit, which 
 is nearest to the earth at the same time, the tides will be 
 considerably higher than at any other time of the year. 
 
 See Carey's Astronomy, p. 137. t Ibid. t Ibid. 
 
15 
 
 The tide which happens at any time while the moon is 
 above the horizon, is called the superior tide, and when 
 below the horizon, the inferior. When the moon is in 
 the equinoctial, the superior and inferior tides are of the 
 same height, but when the moon declines towards the 
 elevated pole, the superior tide is higher than the inferior. 
 If the latitude of the place and the declination of the 
 moon are of contrary names, the inferior tides will be the 
 highest. But the highest tide at any particular place is 
 when the moon's declination is equal to the latitude of 
 the place, and of the same name, and the height of the 
 tide diminishes as the differences between the latitude and 
 declination increases, therefore the nearer any place is to 
 that parallel whose latitude is equal to the moon's de- 
 clination and of the same name, the higher will be the 
 tide at that place. In comparing the height of tides at 
 different places, it is supposed that the sun and moon are 
 at the same distances from the earth, and in the same 
 position with respect to the meridian of these places.* 
 
 The above observations relative to the regularity of 
 the tides could only result by supposing the earth to be 
 covered with the waters of the ocean to a great depth, 
 but as this is not the case, it is only at places situated on 
 the shores of large oceans where such tides exist.f 
 
 From local circumstances the tides are subject to great 
 irregularities, such as meeting with islands, headlands, 
 passing through straits, &c. In order that they may 
 have their full motion, the ocean in which they are pro- 
 duced ought to extend 90" from east to west, because that 
 is the distance between the greatest elevation and the 
 greatest depression produced in the waters by the moon. 
 
 • Sec Carey's Astronomy, p. 137. t Ibid. 
 
16 
 
 Hence it is that the tides in the Pacific Ocean exceed 
 those of the Atlantic, and that they are less in that part 
 of the Atlantic which is within the torrid zone between 
 Africa and America, than on the temperate zones on 
 either side of it where the ocean is much broader.* 
 
 Tides are not perceptible in lakes and most inland seas, 
 and deep and extensive as is the Mediterranean, are 
 scarcely sensible to ordinary observation, their effects be- 
 ing quite subordinate to the winds and currents. In 
 some places, however, as in the Straits of Messina, there 
 is an ebb and flow to the amount of two feet and up- 
 wards ; at Naples and at the Euripus, of twelve and thir- 
 teen inches, and Rennell informs us, at Venice, of five 
 feet.f 
 
 The ebb and flow of the ocean is very slight in islands 
 remote from any continent, as for example, at St. Helena, 
 where it seldom exceeds three feet. Tides are remarkably 
 high on the coasts of Malay, in the Straits of Sunda, on 
 the open coast of Patagonia, along the coasts of China 
 and Japan, at Panama, in the Gulph of Bengal, and at 
 the mouth of the Indus, where the water rises thirty feet 
 in height. Tides are greatest in any given line of coast, 
 in narrow bays and estuaries ; and are least in the inter- 
 vening tracts where the land is prominent.;}: 
 
 On the authority of the late Captain Hewett, R. N., 
 at the entrance of the estuary of the Thames, the rise of 
 the spring tides is eighteen feet ; but when we follow our 
 eastern coast from thence northward ; towards Lowestoft 
 
 * See Lyell's Geology, vol. 2, p. 25. t Ibid. 
 
 t See Goldsmith's History of the Earth and Animated Nature, vol. 1, 
 p. 150. 
 
17 
 
 and Yarmouth, we find a gradual diminution, until at the 
 place last mentioned the highest rise is only seven or eight 
 feet. From this point there begins again to be an in- 
 crease, so that at Cromer, where the coast again retires 
 towards the west, the rise is sixteen feet; and towards 
 the extremity of the gulph called " the Wash," as at 
 Lynn and in Boston Deeps, it is from twenty-two to 
 twenty-four, and in some extraordinary cases, twenty-six 
 feet. From thence again there is a decrease towards the 
 north ; the elevation at the Spurn Point being from nine- 
 teen to twenty feet, and at Flamborough Head, on the 
 Yorkshire coast, from fourteen to sixteen feet. 
 
 It is also recorded, on the authority of Captain Beau- 
 fort, R. N., that at Milford Haven, in Pembrokeshire, at 
 the mouth of the Bristol Channel, the tides rise thirty-six 
 feet, and at King-road, near Bristol, forty-two feet. At 
 Chepstow, on the Wye, a small river which opens into 
 the estuary of the Severn, they reach fifty feet, sometimes 
 sixty-nine, and even seventy-two feet.* 
 
 The tides at Tonquin are the most remarkable in the 
 world. In this part there is but one tide and one ebb 
 every twenty-four hours; whereas in other places there 
 are two. Besides twice in each month there is no tide 
 at all, when the moon is near the equinoctial, the water 
 being for some time quite stagnant. These, with other 
 peculiar appearances attending the same phenomena, 
 were considered by many as inscrutable; but Sir Isaac 
 Newton adjudged them to arise from the concurrence 
 of two tides, one from the South Sea, and the other 
 from the Indian Ocean. Of each of these tides there 
 
 * See Lyen'3 Geology, vol. 2, p. 18. 
 
18 
 
 come successively two every day; two at one time 
 greater, and two at another that are less. The time 
 between the arrival of the two greater is considered by 
 him as high tide ; the time between the two lesser as 
 ebb. In short, with this clue that great mathematician 
 solved every appearance, and so established his theory as 
 to silence every opposer. This fluctuation of the sea from 
 the tides, observes the same author, produces another and 
 more constant rotation of its waters from the east to the 
 west, in this respect following the course of the moon. 
 
 This may be considered as one great and general cur- 
 rent of the waters of the sea ; and although it be not 
 every where distinguishable, it is nevertheless every where 
 existent, except when opposed by some particular cur- 
 rent or eddy produced by partial and local causes. This 
 tendency of the sea towards the west is plainly perceivable 
 in all the great straits of the ocean ; as for instance, in 
 those of Magellan, in South America, where the tide 
 running in from the east nearly twenty feet high, and 
 continues flowing six hours, whereas the ebb continues 
 but two hours, and the current is directed to the west. 
 This proves that the flux is not equal to the reflux, and 
 that from both results a motion of the sea westward, 
 which is more powerful during the time of the flux than 
 the reflux. This motion westward has been sensibly ob- 
 served by navigators in their passage back from India to 
 Madagascar, and so on to Africa. In the great Pacific, 
 also, it is very perceivable; but the places where it is 
 most obvious are, as it was said, in those straits which 
 join one ocean to another. In the straits between the 
 Maldivia Islands, in the gulph of Mexico, between Cuba 
 and Jucatan. In the straits in the gulph of Paria, the 
 motion is so violent, that it has received the appellation 
 
1^ 
 
 of the Dragon's Mouth. Northward, in the sea of 
 Canada, in Waigat's straits, in the straits of Java, and in 
 short, where the ocean on one part pours into the ocean 
 on the other. In this manner is the sea carried with an 
 unceasing circulation round the globe, and at the same 
 time that its waters are pushed backward and forward 
 with the tide ; they have thus a progressive current to the 
 west, which, though less observable, is not the less real.* 
 
 • Vide Goldsmith's History of the Earth and Animated Nature, vol. 1, 
 p. 151. 
 
•20 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 THE ORIGIN OF CURRENTS — THEIR VARIATION^ EFFECTS, 
 AND VELOCITY CONSIDERED. 
 
 Another impulse communicated to the waters of the 
 ocean arises from its currents. These are caused by the 
 winds blowing for many months in one direction, which 
 produce on an expansive ocean movements of consider- 
 able magnitude : this may be easily conceived when we 
 observe the effects produced on our own seas by the tem- 
 porary action of the same cause. 
 
 A strong south-west or north-west wind invariably 
 raises the tides to an unusual height along the east coast 
 of England and the Channel, Smeaton ascertained by ex- 
 periment that in a canal four miles in length, the water was 
 kept up four inches higher at one end than at the other, 
 merely by the action of wind along the canal ; and Rennell 
 informs us that a large piece of water, ten miles broad, and 
 generally only three feet deep, has by a strong wind had 
 its waters driven to one side, and sustained so as to be- 
 come six feet deep, while the windward side was laid 
 dry. He also observes, " As water, when pent up so 
 that it cannot escape, acquires a higher level, so, in a 
 place where it can escape, the same operation produces a 
 
21 
 
 current, and this current will extend to a greater or less 
 distance according to the force by which it is pro- 
 duced." 
 
 Currents flowing alternately in opposite directions are 
 also occasioned by the rise and fall of the tides. The 
 effect of this cause is, as before observed, in estuaries 
 and channels between islands. 
 
 Evaporation by solar heat is another cause of oceanic 
 currents, of which the great current setting through the 
 Straits of Gibraltar into the Mediterranean, is a remark- 
 able example. A stream of colder water always flows from 
 the Black Sea into the Mediterranean. It must happen in 
 many other parts of the world that large quantities of water, 
 raised from one tract of the ocean by solar heat, are carried 
 to some other, where the vapour is condensed, and falls in 
 the shape of rain, and this, in flowing back again to restore 
 equilibrium, will cause sensible currents. There is still 
 another way in which heat and cold must occasion great 
 movements in the ocean ; a cause to which, perhaps, cur- 
 rents are principally due. It is now ascertained that there 
 is in sea water no point, as in fresh water, at which an 
 increase of cold causes the fluid to begin again to expand. 
 In the ocean, therefore, whenever the temperature of the 
 surface is lowered, condensation takes place, and the 
 superficial water having its specific gravity increased, falls 
 to the bottom, upon which lighter water rises immediately, 
 and occupies its place. When this circulation of ascend- 
 ing and descending currents has gone on for a certain 
 time in high latitudes ; the inferior parts of the sea are 
 made to consist of colder or heavier fluid than the cor- 
 responding depths of the ocean between the tropics. If 
 
22 
 
 there be a free communication, if no chain of submarine 
 mountains divide the polar from the equatorial basins, a 
 horizontal movement will arise by the flow^ing of colder 
 water from the poles to the equator, and there will then 
 be a reflux of warmer superficial water from the equator 
 to the poles. A well-known experiment has been ad- 
 duced to elucidate this mode of action in explanation of 
 the " trade winds." If a long trough, divided in the mid- 
 dle by a sluice or partition, have one end filled with 
 water, and the other with quick silver, both fluids will 
 remain quiet so long as they are divided, but when the 
 sluice is drawn up, the heavier fluid will rush along the 
 bottom of the trough, while the lighter, from being dis- 
 placed, will rise, and flowing in an opposite direction, 
 spread itself at the top. The expansion and contraction 
 of sea water by heat and cold, have in a similar manner, 
 a tendency to set under currents in motion from the poles 
 to the equator, and to cause counter currents at the sur- 
 face, which are impelled contrary to that of prevailing 
 trade winds. The geographical and other circumstances 
 being very Icomplicated, we cannot expect to trace sepa- 
 rately the movements due to each cause, but must be pre- 
 pared for many anomalies, especially as the bed of the 
 ocean must often modify and interfere with the course of 
 the inferior currents, as much as the position and form 
 of continents and islands alter the direction of those on 
 the surface. Thus, on sounding at great depths in the 
 Mediterranean, Captains Berard and D'Urville have 
 found that the cold does not increase in a high ratio, as 
 in the tropical regions of the ocean, the thermometer 
 remaining fixed at about 55" F. between the depths of 
 1000 and 6000 feet ; and Captain Smith has shown in his 
 survey, that the deepest part in the Straits of Gibraltar 
 
23 
 
 is only 1320 feet, so that a submarine barrier exists there, 
 which must prevent the influx of any under current of the 
 ocean cooled by the polar ice. 
 
 The rotation of the earth on its axis is another cause 
 which can only come into play when the waters have been 
 already set in motion by some one or all of the forces 
 above described, and when the direction of the current so 
 raised happens to be from south to north, or from north 
 to south, the principle on which this operates has been 
 long recognized in the case of trade winds ; thus, when a 
 current flows from the Cape of Good Hope towards the 
 Gulph of Guinea, it consists of a mass of water, which, 
 on doubling the Cape, in latitude 35", has a rotatory velo- 
 city of about 800 miles an hour ; but when it reaches the 
 line, it arrives at a parallel where the surface of the earth 
 is whirled round at the rate of 1000 miles an hour, or about 
 200 miles faster. If this great mass of water was trans- 
 ferred suddenly from the higher to the lower latitude, the 
 deficiency of its rotatory motion, relatively to the land 
 and water with which it would come into juxta position, 
 would be such as to cause an apparent motion of the most 
 rapid kind (of no less than 200 miles an hour) from east 
 to west.* 
 
 In the case of such a sudden transfer, the eastern 
 coast of America being carried round in an opposite 
 direction, might strike against a large body of water 
 with tremendous violence, and a considerable part of 
 the continent might be submerged. This disturbance 
 does not occur, because the water of the stream, as it 
 advances gradually into new zones of the sea, acquires 
 
 * See Lyell's Geology, vol. 2, p. 34. 
 
24 
 
 by friction an accelerated velocity- Yet as this motion 
 is not imparted instantaneously, the fluid is unable to 
 keep up with the full speed of the new surface over 
 which it is successively brought; and Herschel, in his 
 Treatise on Astronomy, observes, when speaking of the 
 trade winds, it lags or hangs back in a direction oppo- 
 site to the earth's rotation, that is from east to west ;* 
 and thus a current which would have run simply to- 
 wards the north but for the rotation, may acquire a re- 
 lative direction towards the west, or become a south- 
 easterly current. i' 
 
 The most extensive and best determined system of cur- 
 rents is that which has its source in the Indian Ocean, 
 under the influence of the trade winds ; and which, after 
 doubling the Cape of Good Hope, inclines to the north- 
 ward, along the western coast of Africa ; then crosses the 
 Atlantic near the Equator, and is lost in the Caribbean 
 Sea ; yet seems to be again revived in the current which 
 issues from the Gulph of Mexico, by the Straits of Ba- 
 hama, and flows rapidly in a north-easterly direction, by 
 the bank of Newfoundland, towards the Azores. 
 
 Rennell informs us, that the LaguUas current, so called 
 from the cape and bank of that name, is formed by the 
 junction of two streams flowing from the Indian Ocean, 
 the one from the channel of Mozambique, down the south- 
 east coast of Africa, the other from the ocean at large. — 
 The collective stream is from ninety to one hundred miles 
 in breadth, and runs at the rate of from two and a half to 
 more than four miles per hour. It is at length turned 
 westward by the Lagullas bank, which rises from a sea of 
 
 * Treatise on Astronomy. t Lyell's Geology, vol. 2, p. 36. 
 
•25 
 
 great depth, to within one hundred fathoms of the sur- 
 face. It must therefore be inferred, says Rennell, that 
 the current here is more than one hundred fathoms deep, 
 otherwise the main body of it would pass across the bank, 
 instead of being deflected eastward, so as to flow round 
 the Cape of Good Hope. From this Cape it flows north- 
 ward, along the western coast of Africa, taking the name 
 of the South Atlantic current. It then enters the Bight 
 or Bay of Benin, and is turned westward, partly by the 
 form of the coast there, and partly, perhaps, by the 
 Guinea current, which runs from the north into the same 
 great bay. From the centre of this bay proceeds the 
 Equatorial current, holding a westerly direction towards 
 the Atlantic, which it traverses from the coast of Guinea 
 to that of Brazil, flowing afterwards by the shores of 
 Guiana to the West Indies. The breadth of this current 
 varies from one hundred and sixty to four hundred and 
 fifty geographical miles, and its velocity is from twenty 
 five to seventy nine miles per day, the mean rate being 
 about thirty miles. The length of its whole couree is 
 about four thousand miles. As it skirts the coast of 
 Guiana, it is increased by the influx of the waters of the 
 Amazon and Orinoco, and by their junction acquires acce- 
 lerated velocity. After passing the island of Trinadad, it 
 expands, and is almost lost in the Caribbean Sea; but 
 there appears to be a general movement of that sea to- 
 wards the Mexican Gulph, which discharges the most 
 powerful of all currents through the Straits of Florida, 
 where the waters run in the northern part with a velocity 
 of five miles an hour, having a breadth of from thirty 
 five to fifty miles.* 
 
 The temperature of the Gulph of Mexico is 86" in sum- 
 
 * See Lyell's Geology, vol. 2, p. 24. 
 
26 
 
 mer, or 60 higher than that of the ocean in the same 
 parallel (25° N. lat.) and a large proportion of this warmth 
 is retained, even where the stream reaches the 43° N. lat. 
 After issuing from the Straits of Florida, the current runs 
 in a northerly direction to Cape Hatteras, in North Caro- 
 lina, about 35° N. lat. where it is more than seventy miles 
 broad, and still moves at the same rate of seventy five 
 miles per day. In about 40° N. lat. it is turned more to- 
 wards the Atlantic by the extensive banks of Nantucket 
 and St. George, which are from two hundred to three 
 hundred feet beneath the surface of the sea ; a clear proof 
 that the current exceeds that depth. On arriving near 
 the Azores, the stream widens and overflows, as it were 
 forming a large expanse of warm water in the centre of 
 the north Atlantic, over a space of two or three hundred 
 miles from north to south, and having a temperature of 
 from 8° to 10" Fahr. above the surrounding ocean. The 
 whole area covered by the gulph water is estimated by 
 Rennell at two thousand miles in length, and at a mean, 
 three hundred and fifty miles in breadth, an area more 
 extensive than that of the Mediterranean. The warm 
 water has been sometimes known to reach the Bay of Bis- 
 cay, still retaining five degrees of temperature above that 
 of the adjoining ocean ; and a branch of the gulf current 
 drifts fruits, plants, and wood, the produce of America 
 and the West Indies, to the shores of Ireland and the 
 Hebrides.* 
 
 From the above statements, observes Mr. Lyell, we may 
 understand why Rennell has characterised some of the 
 principal currents as oceanic rivers, which he describes as 
 being from fifty to two hundred and fifty miles in breadth, 
 and having a rapidity exceeding that of the largest navi- 
 
 * Rennell on Currents, p. 5«. 
 
•27 
 
 gable rivers of the continent, Hnd so deep as to be some- 
 times obstructed and occasionally turned aside by banks, 
 the tops of which do not rise within forty, fifty, or even 
 one hundred fathoms of the surface of the sea. 
 
 The ordinary velocity of the principal currents of the 
 ocean is from one to three miles per hour ; but when the 
 boundary lands converge, large bodies of water are driven 
 gradually into a narrow space, and then, wanting lateral 
 room, are compelled to raise their level. Whenever this 
 occurs, their velocity is much increased. The current 
 which runs through the Race of Alderney, between the 
 island of that name and the main land, has a velocity of 
 about eight English miles an hour. The late Captain 
 Hewett found that in the Pentland Firth the stream, in 
 ordinary spring tides, runs ten miles and a half an hour, 
 and about thirteen miles during violent storms. The 
 greatest velocity of the tidal current through the " Shoots 
 or New Passage," in the Bristol Channel, is fourteen 
 miles an hour; and Captain King observed, in his recent 
 survey of the Straits of Magellan, that the tide ran at 
 the same rate through the " First Narrows," and about 
 eight geographical miles an hour in other parts of those 
 straits. 
 
 The course of currents on the British shores is ascer- 
 tained to be as winding as that of ordinary rivers. Some- 
 times they run between banks of sand, which consist of 
 matter thrown down at certain points where the velocity 
 of the stream has been retarded, but it very frequently 
 occurs, that as in a river one bank is made of low allu- 
 vial gravel, while the other is composed of some hardy 
 and lofty rocks constantly undermined, so the current in 
 
•28 
 
 its bends strikes here and there upon a coast which then 
 forms one bank, whilst a shoal under water forms the 
 other. If the coast be formed of solid materials, it yields 
 slowly ; so also if it be of great height, for in that case 
 a large quantity of matter must be removed before the sea 
 can penetrate to any distance. 
 
 Currents depend, like tides, on no temporary or acci- 
 dental circumstances, but on the laws which preside over 
 the motions of the heavenly bodies. The height to which 
 tides rise, and the violence and velocity of the currents, 
 depend in a great measure on the actual configuration of 
 the land, the contour of a long line of continental or in- 
 sular coast, the depth and breadth of channels, the pecu- 
 liar form at the bottom of the seas — ^in a word, on a 
 combination of circumstances which are made to vary 
 continually by many igneous and aqueous causes, and 
 among the rest, by the tides and currents themselves. 
 Although these agents of decay and reproduction are local 
 in reference to periods of short duration, such as those 
 which history embraces, they are nevertheless universal, 
 if we extend our views to a sufficient lapse of ages.* 
 
 Currents, observes Goldsmith, act their part in a smaller 
 sphere, being generally greatest where the motions of the 
 sea are least, namely, nearest the shores, and with the 
 tides, produce the most rapid changes ; their motion agi- 
 tates the substances of which their bed is composed, and 
 at the bottom of the sea, the greatest wonders are per- 
 formed, for while the sea has been known to recede from 
 some lands, so it has been found to encroach upon others, 
 
 * See Lyell's Geology, vol. 2, p. »7. 
 
29 
 
 and probably these depredations on one part of the shore 
 may account for the dereliction of another, for the current 
 which rested upon some certain bank, having got an egress 
 in some other place, it no longer presses upon its former 
 bed, but pours all its stream into the new entrance, so that 
 every inundation of the sea may be attended with some 
 correspondent dereliction of another shore, where the sea 
 meets no obstacles, it spreads with a gentle intumescence, 
 till all the power is destroyed by wanting depth to aid the 
 motion, but when the progress is checked in the midst by 
 the prominence of rocks or the abrupt elevation of land, 
 it dashes with all its force its depth against the obstacle, 
 and forms, by its repeated violence, that abruptness of the 
 shore which confines its impetuosity. Where the sea is 
 extremely deep, and very much vexed with tempests, it 
 is no small obstacle that can confine its rage; and for 
 this reason, we see the boldest shores projected against 
 the deepest waters, all less impediments having long be- 
 fore been surmounted and washed away. In places where 
 the force of the sea is less violent, or its tides less rapid, 
 the shores are generally seen to descend with a more gra- 
 dual declivity. Upon these shores the sea seldom beats 
 with any great violence, as a large wave has not depth 
 sufficient to float it onwards, so that here only are to be 
 seen gentle surges making towards the land, and lessen- 
 ing as they approach. As the sea, in the former descrip- 
 tion, is generally seen to present prospects of tumult and 
 uproar, here it more usually exhibits a repose and tran- 
 quil beauty. Its waters which, when surveyed from the 
 precipice, afforded a muddy greenish hue, arising from 
 their depth and position to the eye,* when regarded from 
 a shelving shore, were the colour of the sky, and seem 
 
 * Sec Newton's Optic:^, p. 103—167. 
 
30 
 
 rising to meet it. The deafening noise of the deep sea 
 is here converted into gentle murmurs ; instead of the 
 waters dashing against the face of the rock, it advances 
 and recedes, still going forward but with just force enough 
 to push its weeds and shells, by insensible approaches, to 
 the shore. 
 
31 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 THE GERMAN OCEAN ITS GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION ITS 
 
 TIDES DISASTROUS EFFECTS IN COMBINATION WITH 
 
 GALES OF WIND FROM THE NORTH-WEST ON DIFFERENT 
 PARTS OF THE COAST UNDER CONSIDERATION EXAM- 
 PLES. 
 
 The workings of Nature itself, under the control of an 
 Allwise and Omnipotent Being, ever exhibit a restorative 
 as well as a destructive power. Its laws and constitution 
 being no where directly revealed to us, are only to be in- 
 ferred from the inspection of particular facts, obtained 
 from observation and experiment, the only trust-worthy 
 guides to the knowledge of Nature. Let us inquire — first, 
 the cause of the German Ocean gaining upon the Norfolk 
 coast ? secondly, whether every portion is the subject of 
 such visitation, attended with similar results ? and thirdly, 
 whether art can arrest its progress ? 
 
 The German Ocean, from its being intersected with 
 numerous shoals of sand, some of immense length and 
 breadth, presents a greater variation in the tides and cur- 
 rents than probably any other ocean in the world ; and 
 from its exposure to variable and violent winds, renders 
 the navigation extremely dangerous. Its extent in area 
 is about two millions of square miles, and is confined 
 within its narrowest limits between England and Holland, 
 
32 
 
 and there in consequence the tides rise highest. It opens 
 into the Atlantic on the north, and communicates witli 
 the English Channel by the Straits of Dover, and with 
 the Baltic Sea by the Scaggerac and Cattegat. It may 
 be considered as divided into two parts by the Dogger 
 Bank, which traverses it in almost all its width, and a 
 strong tide runs from north to south,* which is much in- 
 creased by north and north-west winds. 
 
 From the earliest records to the present time, that por- 
 tion of the coast extending from Cromer to Winterton-ness 
 has been most subjected to the ravages of the ocean ; lands 
 have been swept away, buildings of considerable value have 
 been swallowed up, and notwithstanding every effort 
 hitherto made, the sea continues to advance in the inte- 
 rior as little satiated as before. The line of coast is ex- 
 tremely favourable to its rapacity, presenting, as it does, 
 the appearance of a cape, and the different strata com- 
 posing the cliffs are generally of too yielding a nature to 
 resist its influence, even under ordinary circumstances. — 
 The Hasborough Sands, extending from Winterton, to or 
 a little beyond Bacton, must, from their dimensions and 
 abrupt elevation, be a source of considerable mischief, 
 confining a vast body of water within a narrow limit, 
 which, when increased and disturbed by gales of wind 
 from the north-west, upon a spring tide, urges the waves 
 against the cliffs with a greater or less velocity, and with 
 a force not only sufficient to sweep away large quantities 
 of the earth, which, from the perpendicularity of the cliffs, 
 is deposited at their base, but actually to undermine them 
 to a considerable extent. 
 
 * The tide flows along this coast from north to south, and ebbs south- 
 east, but exhibits great variation in different places; thus in the Lynn 
 Deeps the tide flows south and ebbs north-east. 
 
33 
 
 Numerous instances can be adduced where the cur- 
 rent has taken away twenty-one yards of land from the 
 interior in three tides; and it was computed when the 
 present Inn was built in Lower Sherringham, near Cro- 
 mer, in 1805, that it would require seventy years for the 
 sea to reach the spot, the mean loss of land being calcu- 
 lated, from previous observations, to be somewhat less 
 than one yard annually,- the distance between the house 
 and the sea was fifty yards, but no allowance was made 
 for the slope of the ground being from the sea, in conse- 
 quence of which the waste was naturally accelerated 
 every year as the cliff grew lower, there being at each suc- 
 ceeding period less matter to remove when portions of 
 equal area fell down. Between the years 1824 and 1829, 
 no less than seventeen yards were swept away, and the 
 distance between the house and the edge of the cliff at 
 this time is only from eight to ten yards. 
 
 The whole site of ancient Cromer' now forms part of 
 the German Ocean, the inhabitants having gradually re- 
 treated inland to the present situation, from whence the 
 sea still threatens to dislodge them. The locality of this 
 portion of the coast, the scarcity of sea beach material in 
 the offing, the bed of the ocean of a rocky character, and 
 the beach presenting nearly a level approaching a dead flat 
 render it pecuHarly liable to its invasion. 
 
 At Trimingham^ upwards of fifty acres of land have 
 been removed during the last sixty years, and on one 
 occasion four acres and a half were taken away in one 
 tide. 
 
 The property belonging to Mr. Wheatley, at Mun- 
 (1) See Appendix. (2) Ibid. 
 
34 
 
 desley,3 has become considerably reduced in extent and 
 value, and has only been preserved to the present time 
 by substantial walls erected next the sea, and numerous 
 piles of wood driven into the sand beyond them : but what 
 renders it most disheartening is, the sea has excavated 
 the cliff at their extremity; and the probability is, should 
 a heavy lasting gale of wind ensue from the north-west 
 upon a spring tide, they, with perhaps the greater por- 
 tion of the property, will be swept away by the water 
 intruding behind and between them. Land attached to 
 the estate of S. Bignold, Esq., adjoining Walcof* Gap, 
 previous to 1839, was rapidly taken away. 
 
 At Hasborough,^ the sea has encroached upwards of 
 one hundred and seventy yards during the last sixty years, 
 and it is calculated the church will be engulphed in the 
 Ocean before the middle of the ensuing centuiy. 
 
 The ancient villages of Shipden,^ Whimpwell,'' and 
 Keswick® have entirely disappeared, and nearly the whole 
 of Eccles.^ A monument, however, still remains in the 
 ruined tower of the old church, which is half buried in 
 the dunes of sand. These have been fast encroached upon 
 since 1839, laying bare the foundations of dwellings, the 
 chancel end of the church, with a portion of a wall sup- 
 posed to have surrounded the church-yard. The upper 
 part of the buildings had evidently been removed previous 
 to the foundations having been buried under the sand. 
 
 Hills of blown sand, between Eccles and Winterton,'" 
 extending to Yarmouth, have barred up and excluded the 
 tide for many centuries from the mouths of several small 
 
 (3) Sec Appendix. (4) Ibid. (5) Ibid. (6) Ibid. 
 
 (7) Ibid. (8) Ibid. (9) Ibid. (10) Ibid. 
 
35 
 
 estuaries ; but there are records of nine breaches, from 
 twenty to one hundred and twenty yards wide, having 
 been made through these, by which immense damage was 
 done to the low grounds in the interior. One of the most 
 remarkable occurred in the year 1792, on which occasion 
 a body of water passed through between Horsey'' and 
 Waxham,'2 extending beyond Hickling, a village situated 
 three miles inland, which, uniting with the fresh water 
 contained in a large lake, termed the Hickling broad, 
 destroyed all the fish. The injury the land sustained in 
 the immediate neighbourhood was very considerable ; upon 
 one farm a loss of upwards of three hundred pounds was 
 experienced, and years passed by before the land re- 
 covered its former fertility. The effluvia arising from the 
 subsidence or sinking of the water filled the air with 
 malaria of the worst description. Intermittent and typhoid 
 fevers of a most formidable character prevailed, so that 
 many an individual was brought to a premature grave 
 through this catastrophe. 
 
 (11) See Appendix. (1^) Ibid, 
 
 e2 
 
30 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 REMARKS ON THE GERMAN OCEAN CONTINUED. — ITS RE- 
 STORATIVE POWERS ON OTHER COASTS DEMONSTRATED. 
 
 INCREASE OF THE SHOALS OF SAND OFF HASBOROUGH, 
 
 CAISTER, &C. THE SMALLER SHOALS OF SAND ALONG 
 
 THE COAST THEIR FORMATION AND EFFECTS CONSI- 
 DERED. 
 
 Having now brought together ample proofs of the de- 
 structive operations of the waves, tides, and currents upon 
 our eastern coast, let us observe examples of their re- 
 storative power, in many instances aided and assisted by 
 the hand of man. 
 
 The German Ocean is deepest on the Norwegian 
 side, where the soundings give one hundred and ninety 
 fathoms ; but the mean depth of the whole basin may be 
 stated at no more than thirty-one fathoms.* The bed of 
 this sea is traversed by several enormous banks : one of 
 which, occupying a central position, trends from the Frith 
 of Forth in a north-easterly direction, to a distance of one 
 hundred and ten miles; others run from Denmark and 
 Jutland, upwards of one hundred and five miles to the 
 
 * Stevenson on the Bed of the German Ocean or North Sea.— Ed. Phil. 
 Journ. No. v. p. 41. 1820, 
 
37 
 
 north-west ; while the greatest of all, the Dogger Bank, 
 extends for upwards of three hundred and fifty-four miles 
 from north to south.* The whole superficies of these 
 enormous shoals is equal to about one-fifth of the whole 
 area of the German Ocean, or to about one-third of the 
 whole extent of England and Scotland. f The average 
 height of the banks measures, according to Mr. Stevenson, 
 about seventy-eight feet ; the upper portion consisting of 
 fine and course silicious sand, mixed with comminuted 
 corals and shells. J Some long narrow ravines are found 
 to intersect the banks. One of these varies from seven- 
 teen to forty-four fathoms in depth and has very preci- 
 pitous sides : in one part, called the " Inner Silver Pits," 
 it is fifty-five fathoms deep. The shallowest parts of the 
 Dogger Bank were found to be forty-two feet under water, 
 except in one place,, where the wreck of a ship had caused 
 a shoal. 
 
 These sands receive fresh increase every day ; so that in 
 time the place bids fair to become habitable earth. 
 
 The kingdom of Holland seems to be a conquest upon 
 the sea, and in a manner rescued from its bosom. The 
 surface of the earth, in this country, is below the level of 
 the bed of the ocean ; and I remember, observes BufFon, 
 upon approaching the coast, to have looked down upon it 
 from the sea, as into a valley : however, it is every day 
 
 * The Dogger Sands, in the North Sea, lie in the direction of a Une 
 drawn from Scarborough, in Yorkshire, to the coast of Jutland, terminating 
 within fifty miles of the latter place.— On the 5th of August, 1781, an ob- 
 stinate engagement took place immediately off this Bank, between the 
 English and Dutch Fleets. 
 
 t Ed. Phil. Journ. No. v. page 44. 1820.— Stevenson on the Bed of the 
 German Ocean or North Sea. 
 
 t Ibid. 
 
38 
 
 rising higlier by the depositions made upon it by the sea, 
 the Rhine and the Meuse, and tliose parts which formerly 
 admitted large men of war, are now known to be too 
 shallow to receive ships of very moderate burden. 
 
 The formation of new lands by the sea's continually 
 bringing its sediment to one place, and by the accumula- 
 tion of its sands in another, is easily conceived. We have 
 had many instances of this in England. The island of 
 Oxney, which is adjacent to Romney-marsh, was produced 
 in this manner. This had for a long time been a low level, 
 continually in danger of being overflown by the river 
 Rother; but the sea, by its depositions, has gradually 
 raised the bottom of the river, while it has hollowed its 
 mouth ; so that the one is sufficiently secured from inun- 
 dations, and the other is deep enough to admit ships of 
 considerable burthen. 
 
 On many parts of the coasts of France, England, Hol- 
 land, Germany, and Prussia, the sea has been sensibly 
 known to retire.* 
 
 Instances of new lands having been produced from the 
 sea are brought about by two different ways; first, by 
 the waters raising banks of sand or mud where the sedi- 
 ment is deposited ; and, secondly, by their relinquishing 
 the shore entirely, and leaving it unoccupied to the in- 
 dustry of man.f 
 
 The quantity of sand, stones, &:c., moved here and there 
 by the tidal current is very considerable, and no given 
 
 * Bufton, vol. vi. p. 424. 
 t Goldsmith's History of the Earth and Animated Nature, vol. 1, p. 161. 
 
39 
 
 line of the coast can afford a better example than the one 
 under consideration. 
 
 The Hasborough Sands probably increase in breadth if 
 not in length, since every year they receive fresh accessions 
 from vessels buried in their vortex, v^^hich afford a nucleus 
 for retaining the sand lodging against them. 
 
 The Cockle Sands, off Caistor,'^ have increased since 
 1836 one mile and a half in extent to the northward. 
 
 The deposition of sands, stones, shingle, &:c., upon our 
 coast, especially during the summer months, when east- 
 erly, southerly, and westerly winds prevail, would strike 
 the beholder unaccustomed to witness the contrary effects, 
 as an apparent impossibility, that the water could remove 
 such an immense quantity of material especially in the 
 short time that it does when a north-west gale prevails. 
 
 Shoals of sand of various length, breadth, and depth, 
 appear and disappear, form and re-form, in the ofhng. — 
 In north-westerly gales only are they solid, stable, and 
 compact, and increase in breadth, while the materials on 
 the beach are swept away. They extend in a direction 
 parallel with the shore, and present an inclined plane, on 
 each side of their base a corresponding shallow exists, 
 and the tidal current will not allow materials to rest on 
 their surface sufficiently to increase their elevation, and 
 render them more efficient. As it is, however, they are 
 natural breakwaters, but from their irregularity in extent, 
 dimensions, and situation, they afford only a partial pro- 
 tection to the coast. 
 
 (13) See Appendix. 
 
40 
 
 The incursions of the sea at Aldborough, in Suffolk, were 
 formerly very destructive ; and this borough is known to 
 have been once situated a quarter of a mile east of the 
 present shore. The inhabitants continued to build fur- 
 ther inland, till they arrived at the extremity of their pro- 
 perty, and then the town decayed greatly ; but two sand- 
 banks thrown up at a short distance, now afford a tem- 
 porary safeguard to the coast. Between these banks and 
 the present shore, where the current now flows, the sea is 
 twenty-four feet deep on the spot where the town for- 
 merly stood. 
 
 Immediately off Yarmouth,'* and parallel to the shore, 
 is a range of sand-banks, the shape of which varies slowly 
 from year to year, and often suddenly after great storms. 
 The late Captain Hewett, R. N., found in these banks, in 
 1836, a broad channel sixty-five feet deep, where there 
 was only a depth of four feet during a prior survey 
 in 1822. The sea had excavated to the depth of sixty 
 feet in the course of fourteen years, or perhaps a shorter 
 period.* 
 
 tance beyond where the ebbing of the tide recedes to its 
 greatest extent, denominated low water mark, there the 
 innermost shallow will probably be : another shoal im- 
 mediately forms, the base commencing at low water mark, 
 and a gradual rise takes place towards the cliffs, termin- 
 ating at or beyond the extent of the flowing of the tide 
 denominated high water mark. Here, then, the shoal 
 will be more efficient; the tidal wave and current will 
 be checked and broken against the ascending bank. 
 
 (14) See Appendix. * LycU's Geology, vol. 2, p. 54. 
 
41 
 
 But should a shoal of sand form whose superior surface 
 terminates at low water mark, the innermost shallow* will 
 be observed nearer to, and its course frequently terminate 
 in, an angular direction to the cliffs ; and between the in- 
 termediate spaces of the shoals existing in the offing, a 
 current frequently sets in towards the shore, which will 
 aid the force of the tidal wave and current, when called 
 into excessive action, in its attack either upon the cliff 
 opposite, or a partial shoal nearest it. Under these cir- 
 cumstances, the one will soon lose its inclined surface, and 
 the other will become undermined. 
 
 Where shoals of sand exist in the offing, there the 
 beach is widest, and where they do not exist, there the 
 beach is narrowest. 
 
 * The term shallow is applied by the Author to any hollow or cavity 
 which may occur in the beach, and frequently designated a low or cane. 
 
42 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 MEANS TAKEN TO ARREST THE DEPREDATIONS OF THE 
 GERMAN OCEAN BY PUBLIC AND PRIVATE INDIVIDUALS. 
 THE ERECTION OF JETTIES, PIERS, AND GROINS CON- 
 SIDERED. THE BENEFICIAL EFFECTS ARISING FROM THE 
 
 TWO FORMER AT YARMOUTH AND CROMER THE PAR- 
 TIAL FAILURE OF THE LATTER AT TRIMINGHAM, AND 
 THEIR INJURIOUS EFFECTS ON OTHER COASTS DEMON- 
 STRATED. 
 
 It appears, from the observations of Mr. Palmer and 
 others, that if a pier or groin be erected anywhere on 
 our southern or south-eastern coast, to stop the progress 
 of the beach, a heap of shingle soon collects on the 
 western side of such artificial barriers,* while on our 
 eastern coast, sand, stones, &c., accumulate to the north- 
 ward. 
 
 The plans hitherto pursued by public and private indi- 
 viduals have been to place abrupt perpendicular bodies, 
 not to the southward of the property they have been most 
 anxious to save, but have erected them directly opposite. 
 Thus Mr. Wheatley, of Mundsley,!^ had the hulls of old 
 vessels placed upon the shore at the base of the cliffs ad- 
 
 * Groins are formed of piles and wooden planks, or of faggots staked 
 down, and they are used either to break the force of the waves, or to retain 
 the beach. (15) See Appendix. 
 
43 
 
 joining his property ; they were filled with large stones, 
 secured with piles driven into the beach on either side, 
 fore and aft, also by a strong chain cable, &c. ; but a 
 few years since they were entirely removed by the sea 
 during a heavy gale of wind from the north-west upon a 
 spring tide. 
 
 The town of Cromer,^^ on the same occasion, met with 
 considerable loss. The jetty erected at the north end of 
 the town caused a large mound of sand to accumulate to 
 the northward of it, presenting an inclined surface to- 
 wards the sea, and during the intervention of north- 
 westerly gales, indigenous grasses sprung up, and covered 
 the surface nearest the banks; this time, however, the 
 jetty gave way, and the greater portion of the mound of 
 sand was removed ; but still there was sufficient left to 
 convince the inhabitants, had the jetty been erected at 
 the south end of the town, their property would have 
 been saved. 
 
 In the erection of a groin at Trimingham,'^ a few years 
 since, large square piles, about ten or twelve inches in 
 diameter, were driven into the beach, at a right angle, to 
 the base of the tall cliffs, and extended to or beyond low 
 water mark; they were left projecting a considerable 
 height above the then surface of the beach, and strong 
 planks, fastened with iron bolts, were continuously at- 
 tached to the tops of the projecting piles. The shallow 
 existing must have been considerable in length, breadth, 
 and depth ; for subsequently a heavy sea, produced from 
 a northerly gale, removed several of the piles entirely, 
 and others were forced from a perpendicular to a horizon- 
 tal position. 
 
 (16) Sec Appendix. (17) Ibid. 
 
 f2 
 
44 
 
 This circumstance, however, is readily accounted for, 
 the strata into which the piles were inserted at a particu- 
 lar part, passed through blue clay into blue sand of a 
 loose texture, and the piles were not driven to a depth 
 necessary to reach or enter the solid strata beneath ; now 
 if we take into consideration the length and depth of the 
 shallow, and breadth of surface presented by pile and 
 plank, subjected to the full sweep of the tidal current 
 from north to south, or rather at this point from east to 
 west, aided and assisted by an increased flow of water 
 from the Atlantic, we cannot be surprised at the result 
 above mentioned. It was found necessary to support 
 those left with additional piles placed horizontally on the 
 west side. The effect produced by this costly groin was 
 an accumulation of sea-beach materials to the northward, 
 extending about thirty yards from the base of the cliff 
 towards the sea, reaching to the top of the pile and plank ; 
 from thence an abrupt declination ensued, and terminated 
 at the part from whence the piles, &c., alluded to had 
 been removed. 
 
 Immediately to the southward of this barrier scarcely 
 any accumulation of sea-beach materials had taken place, 
 and the sea was committing greater ravages upon the 
 cliffs adjoining than before.* 
 
 The plan of driving piles into the beach, for the pur- 
 pose of retaining it, and encouraging materials to lodge 
 on its surface, and consequently to break the force of the 
 waves, has long been adopted on different coasts in Eng- 
 land ; and where a continuation of them has been prac- 
 tised, in certain localities, seem to have been attended 
 
 * This was obseivod by llir Author in June, 18^14. 
 
45 
 
 with success ; in others they have exhibited only a partial 
 protection, from their temporary duration, and consider- 
 able inconvenience has been felt on coasts where shingle 
 predominates, from pebbles pouring over in great num- 
 bers during heavy gales. 
 
 The immense quantity of sand displayed on this portion 
 of the coast affords not only a different feature, but more 
 gratifying results may be anticipated. In Yarmouth, the 
 sea has not advanced upon the sands in the slightest degree 
 since the reign of Elizabeth, and where the town is built 
 became firm and habitable ground about the year 1008, 
 from which time a line of dunes has gradually increased 
 in height and breadth, stretching across the whole en- 
 trance of the ancient estuary, and obstructing the ingress 
 of the tides so completely, that they are only admitted 
 by a narrow passage, which the river keeps open, and 
 which has gradually shifted several miles to the south.* 
 
 By the exclusion of the sea, thousands of acres in the 
 interior have become cultivated lands ; and exclusive of 
 small pools, upwards of sixty fresh water lakes have been 
 formed, varying in depth from fifteen to thirty feet, and 
 in extent from one to twelve hundred acres.f 
 
 The benefit derived from the erection of piers at the 
 Haven's mouth, has, in conjunction with the jetty, 
 afforded great protection to the town of Yarmouth. The 
 tidal wave and current has been checked, the shore has 
 been elevated, retained, and rendered wider to the north- 
 ward, as far as Winterton ;*^ a shoal of sand has 
 formed, and extends a considerable distance into the sea, 
 
 * Taylor's Geolos;y of East Norfolk, p. 10. t Tbid, 
 
 (18) bof Appe!i(ii\. 
 
46 
 
 at right angles to the shore, beyond the termination of 
 the north pier, so that it has been found necessary to 
 place a buoy at its extremity, as a guide for the mariner 
 to steer due east from the Haven's Mouth to Yarmouth 
 Roads. The jetty, extending into the sea upwards of four 
 hundred and fifty feet, is now about to be added to, in 
 consequence of the shallowness of the water. 
 
 The question now arises, would the jetty and piers have 
 been so beneficial, had they not been continued into the 
 sea to the extent alluded to ? Certainly not. The shoals 
 of sand, which formerly existed in the ofhng, have been 
 removed, or ratber have been converted into a solid mass; 
 the current has been diverted from a southerly to a north- 
 easterly direction, and the bed of the ocean nearest the 
 shore has been elevated, and no doubt terminates into the 
 sea upon an inclined plane. 
 
 The failure of groins, erected with pile and plank, ap- 
 pear to arise from their being placed in a wrong situation, 
 from their not extending far enouoh into the sea, from 
 the piles not being driven sufficiently into the beach, and 
 from their sudden elevation, present an abrupt surface for 
 the tidal wave to play upon, which during heavy gales of 
 wind upon spring tides, cannot withstand its powerful 
 effect, should the materials lying adjacent to or between 
 them be removed. Therefore they can only be available 
 where the interstices are completely filled with sea beach 
 materials, and their durability must depend upon the lat- 
 ter cause. 
 
47 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 THE RESTORATIVE POWER OF THE GERMAN OCEAN PROVED 
 
 IN CERTAIN LOCALITIES. ASSISTANCE GIVEN TO IT 
 
 FROM THE STRANDING OF A VESSEL AT PURBECK, AND ON 
 
 THIS COAST AT HASBOROUGH. HILLS OF BLOWN SAND 
 
 OR DUNES CONSIDERED EXAMPLES OF THEIR STABILITY 
 
 GIVEN AT WELLS, CLEY, ScC, AND OF THEIR INSTABILITY 
 
 AT ECCLES, PALLING, &C. SEA-BREACH COMMISSIONERS 
 
 APPOINTED. THE ENGAGEMENT AND OPINIONS OF AN 
 
 EMINENT ENGINEER IN 1804. CONCLUDING REMARKS. 
 
 Examples of Nature endeavouring to combat with her- 
 self is shown from the immense quantity of sand, shingle, 
 &c., brought from low to high water mark, during the 
 summer months, and should easterly winds prevail, the 
 sand is removed towards the cliffs, and accumulates in 
 some situations more than in others. Thus at Walcot,i^ a 
 deposition of sea beach materials commenced in 1839, and 
 gradually augmented from six to eight feet in depth, with- 
 in a distance of one mile and a half, and in a space com- 
 prising a few yards, it attained a perpendicularity above 
 the cliffs, extending to high water mark, and the tidal 
 wave, even in a northerly wind, ebbed and flowed with- 
 out disturbing its surface, from the above period to No- 
 
 (19) See Appendix. 
 
48 
 
 vember, 1843. A gale of wind then ensued from the 
 north-west, upon a neap tide, which removed the greater 
 part of the mound of sand, and a subsequent gale, upon 
 a spring tide, in February, 1844, swept away the re- 
 mainder. 
 
 A similar instance of accumulation was observed to 
 have taken place on the Essex coast, commencing about 
 the same period, and extended a distance of seven miles, 
 which appeared in December, 1843, likely to remain.* 
 
 The flat shores at Wells^" are considerably elevated 
 above the depths of the ocean, into which they proba- 
 bly terminate in a gradual descent. The stranding of 
 three large vessels off Winter ton^' and Horsey,'^* years 
 ago, have possibly prevented its encroachments in these 
 places. 
 
 When a vessel is stranded in shallow water, it usually 
 becomes the nucleus of a sand-bank, as has been exem- 
 plified in several of our harbours, and this circumstance 
 tends greatly to its preservation. Between the years 1780 
 and 1790, a vessel from Purbeck, laden with three hun- 
 dred tons of stone, struck on a shoal off the entrance of 
 Poole harbour, and foundered ; the crew were saved, but 
 the vessel and cargo remain to this day at the bottom. — 
 Since that period, the shoal at the entrance of the har- 
 bour has so extended itself in a westerly direction, to- 
 wards Peveril Point, in Purbeck, that the navigable 
 channel is thrown a mile nearer that point. The cause 
 is obvious ; the tidal current deposits the sediment with 
 
 * Communicated to the Author by J. Brown, Esq., F. G. S. 
 (20) See Appendix. (21) Ibid. (22) Ibid. 
 
49 
 
 which it is charged, around any object which checks its 
 velocity. Matter also drifted along the bottom, is ar- 
 rested by any obstacle, and accumulates round it, just as 
 the African sand-winds raise a small hillock over the car- 
 case of every dead camel exposed on the surface of the 
 desert.* 
 
 Upon the 18th day of February, in the year 1807, the 
 Hunter cutter,t during a heavy gale, struck on a shoal 
 of sand in the offing, and finally drifted into a shallow 
 near the shore, about a quarter of a mile to the north- 
 ward of the old cart gap, at Hasborough, the stern part to- 
 wards the cliff. In a very short time, sand, shingle, (fee, 
 accumulated around her, and completely filled the shallow 
 to its utmost length. Within twelve months after, several 
 shoals and shallows showed themselves opposite the town 
 gap, evincing that the flowing of the tide had received 
 a check, which proved an inconvenience to fishermen, as 
 they had to heave their boats much farther before they 
 could launch them into the sea ; they were so aware that 
 the Hunter cutter was the cause of this circumstance, 
 that many a harsh expression did they utter towards her. 
 In less than two years, more than one hundred yards 
 could be paced from her bows on the ebbing of the tide 
 to low water mark, and a large mound of sand accumu- 
 lated between her stern and the cliff, which existed up- 
 wards of twenty years, and arrested the devastation of 
 the sea directly opposite. From subsequent gales, how- 
 
 * See Lyell's Geology, vol. 3, p. 338. 
 t This vessel rests on her starboard side, and part of her ribs are visible 
 on the ebbing of the tide in calm weather. Every soul on board met with 
 a watery grave ; and since that period the Ranger cutter foundered in a 
 heavy gale on the outermost bank, and went to pieces, about a quarter of a 
 mile to the south-east of the same gap, and every person on board expe- 
 rienced a similar fate. 
 
50 
 
 ever, the cliiFs were taken away to the northward, the 
 water intruded behind the mound of sand, and entirely 
 removed it. A greater proof of the check the waves had 
 received was observed at low water mark, a ridge of gravel 
 was deposited and left undisturbed on the ebbing of the 
 tide, extending from the Hunter cutter to Bacton coal 
 gap, a distance of three miles to the northward; the 
 first spring tide, however, swept away nearly the whole 
 of the ridge of gravel, except that portion nearest the 
 Hunter cutter. 
 
 Although the benefit derived to the preservation of the 
 cliffs from the stranding of the vessel has been entirely 
 lost, still to the present time no shallows have formed 
 immediately adjacent to her, and the beach would have 
 been higher than it now is, had her bulwarks, taffrel, 
 &c., not been removed. 
 
 The irruption of the sea, through the breaches in the 
 dunes of sand,* in the neighbourhood of Eccles,'^^ Hor- 
 sey ,2"* Waxham,'"' &c., having been attended with serious 
 inconvenience and spoliation, caused a body of highly 
 respected and influential gentlemen to be appointed 
 Sea-breach Commissioners, and in the year 1804, they 
 engaged an eminent Engineer, since deceased, who, 
 among other information, gave it as his opinion, that 
 if the shallows were all filled up, and the beach kept 
 on an inclined plane, the sea would never gain on the 
 Norfolk coast. He did not, however, point out how such 
 an assertion could be substantiated, or submit a plan to 
 
 • These sand hills are composed of dry sand, bound in a compact mass 
 by the long creeping roots of the plant called Marram (Arundo Arenaria) ; 
 and such is the present set of the tides, that the harbours of Cley, Wells, 
 and other places, are securely defended by these barriers. 
 
 (23) See Appendix. (24) Ibid. (25) Ibid. 
 
51 
 
 effect so desirable an object ; but the accident occurring 
 to the Hunter cutter, the effects produced from her im- 
 mersion in a cavity on the beach, the benefit in pre- 
 serving the lands opposite for a long period, and the dis- 
 continuation of shallows forming in her immediate neigh- 
 bourhood, at once indicate the truth of his assertion, and 
 suggest the plan about to be submitted. 
 
 g2 
 
52 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 THE GENERAL FEATURES OF THE COAST. THE VARIATION 
 
 AND EFFECTS OF THE WIND FROM DIFFERENT POINTS 
 CONSIDERED. 
 
 To combat successfully with so restless and powerful an 
 agent as the ocean, requires great consideration and at- 
 tention; for the obstacles presented on this coast are of 
 no ordinary chai'acter. Among them may be enumerated 
 powerful tides and currents, a confined space for a large 
 body of water upon extraordinary occasions, cliffs of a 
 soft yielding nature, a limited and irregular shore, with 
 cavities and projections, either a dead flat or hollow de- 
 scent from low water mark towards the cliffs, constitute 
 a beach of the worst character. The shoals of sand in 
 the offing, in certain localities, are numerous and irre- 
 gular, their dimensions and situation variable, and while 
 they afford a partial protection to the coast, are decidedly 
 injurious to vessels liable to be stranded. 
 
 To make the sea subservient to our wishes, and agree- 
 able to our design, in other words, to make it perform 
 the duty of bringing its contents from the bottom of its 
 waters towards the cliffs, to protect them, if possible, for 
 ages, let us consider its auxiliary, the wind, the effects, 
 whether beneficial or injurious. 
 
53 
 
 The long-shore wind blowing from the north, but more 
 particularly from the north-west, causes the water, upon a 
 spring tide, to remove, as before observed, materials from 
 the beach, to undermine the cliffs, and should a strong 
 breeze have continued for two or three days previous from 
 the south-east, and suddenly veer to the former point, a 
 heavier sea will be the result on this part of the coast. 
 For the waters of the ocean, having been kept back by 
 the south-east wind, cannot escape so readily, had the 
 superior force of what is commonly termed " the flood 
 tide" from the north, a tidal wave derived from the At- 
 lantic, not been checked. A small part of this wave 
 passes eastward up the English Channel, and through the 
 Straits of Dover, and then northwards, while the princi- 
 pal body of water, moving much more rapidly to a more 
 open sea on the western side of Britain, first passes the 
 Orkney Islands, and then turning, flows down between 
 Norway and Scotland, and sweeps with great velocity 
 along our eastern coast. 
 
 The lee shore wind, blowing from the north-east, re- 
 moves the shoals of sand in the offing towards the shore, 
 and wherever these find a resting place, from the sud- 
 denness of their removal, quicksands are sure to exist; 
 fortunately, however, not to so considerable a depth as 
 mentioned by the celebrated Scottish Bard, in the fate 
 attending the Master of Ravensworth, but yet sufficiently 
 alarming to render persons cautious how they venture 
 upon their surface, especially on horseback. Some years 
 since, on one occasion, after the formation of these sands, 
 a vessel laden with timber, was stranded at Trimingham, 
 near Cromer. A waggon and horses being employed to 
 convey the timber ashore, became immersed, and the lat- 
 ter could not be extricated, on account of their being at- 
 
54 
 
 tached to the waggon, until life was extinct. On the 
 same day, a lady, riding on horseback between Horsey 
 and Waxham, met with a similar accident, and was with 
 difficulty released from her perilous situation. When the 
 wind changes to another quarter, these sands disappear, 
 and shoals are visible in their former situation. 
 
 Too often does the unfortunate mariner experience the 
 bitter effects of quicksands in immediate connection with 
 the large shoal off Hasborough : while the surface on its 
 inner side is covered with water eighteen or twenty inches 
 deep, within a short distance is as many fathoms. Be- 
 tween the spaces loose sands exist to a great depth ; and, 
 therefore, only those well acquainted with this circum- 
 stance, can possibly escape destruction, for should a ves- 
 sel strike the fore part of her keel on the more soHd por- 
 tion of the shoal, numerous instances can be adduced 
 where the stern has sunk foremost into the quicksands, 
 and hull, masts, and every thing belonging to her, have 
 been engulphed in a very short time, and sometimes, pro- 
 bably, before those on board have had an opportunity to 
 make their escape. 
 
 An ofF-shore wind on this coast blows from west to 
 south, and causes all heavy bodies, stones, &c., to be 
 brought towards the shore ; which are left between high 
 and low water mark on the ebbing of the tide. 
 
55 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 THE GENERAL FEATURE OF THE CLIFFS CONSIDERED 
 
 CAUSES OF IRREGULARITY, AND THE GEOLOGICAL STRATA 
 COMPOSING THEM. 
 
 The cliffs* extending from Hasborough to or a little be- 
 yond Cromer, are found, upon approaching near, to be 
 extremely irregular. In some places small promontories 
 or points project, in others small bays are formed, accord- 
 ing to the influence of the sea, and the materials com- 
 posing their structure. Their perpendicularity is parti- 
 ally averted from the fallen masses deposited at their 
 base ; which, where the cliffs are lofty, are often consider- 
 able; arising either from the sand or clay beneath the 
 more solid strata being removed ; or the landslips which 
 ensue, from fresh water springs abovmding in certain locali- 
 ties. Thus, in the winter of 1825, a fallen mass was 
 precipitated from near the light-house at Cromer, which 
 
 * The knowledge of the different strata composing tlie cHffs is derived 
 from an interesting publication by the Rev. C. Green, Minister of Bacton 
 Chapel, entitled the History, Antiquities, and Geology of Bacton, in Nor- 
 folk, published in 1&42. The indefatigable and learned Author being about 
 to publish a work upon the Geology of Norfolk generally, with an ac- 
 count of the Fossils, Bones, &c., deposited in its different strata, the 
 minute details of their stratification has been avoided, as considered unne- 
 cessary for this publication. 
 
56 
 
 covered twelve acres, extending far into the sea, the cHff's 
 being two hundred and fifty feet in height ; and Mr. 
 Lyell observes, the undermining by springs has caused 
 large portions of the upper part of the cliffs, with houses 
 still standing upon them, to give way, so that it is im- 
 possible, by erecting breakwaters at the base of the cliffs, 
 permanently to ward off the danger. 
 
 The wasting of the cliffs is also accelerated from other 
 causes — the continuation of strong north-easterly winds, 
 of drought producing fissures from their superior surface 
 downwards, heavy rains, and after severe and successive 
 frosts. 
 
 The cliffs generally consist of clay, sand, and loam. 
 By some writers they have been termed mud cliffs, from 
 their dark colour and general appearance. Mr. Lyell in- 
 cludes them in a series called the Boulder formation. 
 
 Mr. Woodward, in his Outline of the Geology of Nor- 
 folk, considers them to be of diluvial origin ; but upon 
 close inspection, they are found to contain strata and 
 fossils which partake of the characters and may be as- 
 cribed to various parts of the tertiary period. 
 
 The cliffs form part of an extensive series, extending 
 from Hasborough Lighthouses to Weybourne, north-west 
 of Cromer, comprising a distance of about twenty miles, 
 and are supposed continuously to rest upon chalk. 
 
 In some places the cliffs are very regularly stratified, 
 presenting at various parts, layers of red and white sand, 
 but in other places they are wholly devoid of stratifica- 
 tion, exhibiting one continuous mass of till. 
 
57 
 
 This position of the various strata will be found pretty 
 correct : — 
 
 r C 1 T> 1 ^ containing bones of 
 
 ' Diluvial \ ^ ^^-^^^ ^^^y ithe horsefox, &c. 
 f 2 Till 
 
 Newer ^3 Crag 
 
 Pliocene I 4 Fresh water, lacustrine, lignite, &c. 
 
 Tertiary^ Older S 6 Blue clay 5 ^oj^taining bones of 
 n^- s £! n J "^ 1 \ elephants, rhino- 
 
 Pliocene ^6 Red gravel ^ ^^^^ ^^ 
 
 „ r^ 1 ( with bones of ex- 
 
 Eocene < ^ ^'^^" ^^""^ I tinct mammalia. 
 8 Chalk 
 
 The entire series of these cliffs bears evidence of great 
 and successive changes ; the strata, in many places, are 
 folded and bent, and superimposed upon others, which 
 have undergone no dislocation whatever. On the till, 
 with an even horizontal surface, beds of laminated clay 
 and sand are seen to repose, succeeded by vertical, bent, 
 and contorted beds, having a covering of coarse gravel 
 and flints. 
 
 Between Bacton and Mundsley, small pits or furrows 
 may be seen at various distances, from the top of the 
 cliffs filled with fragments of white chalk j regular strata 
 being superimposed. Many of these furrows are several 
 feet in width and depth. In the till, to the east of Bac- 
 ton, these furrows are again largely developed. 
 
 The till and marl, layers of which are met with towards 
 Mundsley, frequently present grooved surfaces, and at dif- 
 ferent places appear to dip into the beach, the grooves 
 left being filled with superimposed sand. The gravel also 
 takes a like dip. 
 
58 
 
 While on the ojie hand there are evidences which prove 
 the slow deposition of some of these strata, on the other 
 there are proofs of great convulsions and derangement. 
 
 As a regular description of the separate strata may not 
 prove uninteresting, let us inquire into the first — 
 
 Till. 
 
 This term is a provincial word, widely used in Scotland 
 for similar masses of unstratified matter, which contain 
 boulders; and the same term has been applied by Mr. 
 Lyell to this part of the Norfolk strata. 
 
 The till is of a dark blue colour, somewhat resem- 
 bling that of the London clay, and has been classed by 
 some writers with that formation, because of the boul- 
 ders with which it abounds. Mr. Woodward calls it blue 
 clay. A positive distinction between this and the regular 
 blue clay, however, must be made. 
 
 This till forms a large portion of the cliffs between 
 Hasborough and Mundsley, rising in some places from 
 twenty to nearly eighty feet in perpendicular height. — 
 The whole of its organic remains appears to have been 
 washed from other formations, to be deposited in it, and 
 it contains, mingled with them, fragments of almost 
 every rock of the secondary and primary series ; compre- 
 hending immense blocks of granite, porphry, green- 
 stone, oolite, lias, chalk, pebbles, trap, micaceous chist, 
 sand-stones of various kinds, chert, marl, &c. Near 
 Hasborough it is much intermingled with chalk. 
 
 The second stratum, as we descend beneath the till, is the 
 
59 
 
 Crag. 
 
 A layer of which, between the watch-house and coal 
 gaps at Bacton, has been termed by Mr. Lyell hard fer- 
 ruginous crag. It consists of several thin plates, con- 
 taining compressed wood, fragmentary and whole shells, 
 intermixed with clay, gravel, and white sand. This bed 
 forms a dip towards the north-west, having a support of 
 red sand on the one side, and green sand on the other. 
 A section of the crag is more largely developed at Cro- 
 mer, Runton, and Weybourne. Between Bacton coal 
 gap and Mundsley, vertical layers of crag occur, com- 
 posed of thickly cemented fragments of shells. 
 
 Immediately beneath the crag occur those formations 
 which are generally termed Fresh Water, consisting of 
 lignite and lacustrine deposits. 
 
 Lacustrine. 
 
 At several spots between Hasborough and Mundsley, 
 these deposits may be examined. They contain many 
 species of shells, with fish and bones of mammalia. 
 
 The first of these occurs at a place called Ostend, be- 
 tween Hasborough and Bacton, about half a mile from 
 the latter place. It is composed of bluish mud, with 
 'occasional patches of brown clay, and extends several 
 yards along the beach. This formation was discovered 
 by Mr. Green, in August, 1841. 
 
 About two hundred yards from the forest peat at Bac- 
 ton, the second lacustrine bed occurs. It is confined to 
 
 H 2 
 
60 
 
 occasional patches about the middle of the cliff, near the 
 watch-house gap. The shells are deposited in thin layers 
 of sand and blue clay, containing much wood, which ap- 
 pears as if bored by some insect. 
 
 The third lacustrine formation is at the village of 
 Mundsley, and is distinguished from the other cliffs by 
 its dark muddy appearance. Its height is about twenty 
 feet, and it extends one hundred yards along the beach. 
 
 Mr. Lyell, referring to this bed, says, " It consists of 
 brown, black, and grey sand, and loam mixed with veget- 
 able matter, sometimes almost passing into a kind of 
 peaty earth, containing much pyrites. 
 
 Lignite. 
 
 This name has been given to extensive forest beds, con- 
 taining much carbonized wood. 
 
 The deposit prevails very generally along the Norfolk 
 coast, and may be instructively examined at Hasborough, 
 Bacton, Mundsley, Trimingham, and Cromer. 
 
 At Bacton extensive sections are laid bare after high 
 tides. They are mostly formed of black peaty earth, 
 which may be separated into thin layers, and has gene- 
 rally an aluminous taste, and abounds with pyrites. 
 
 At Bacton the depth of these sections, from the top of 
 the cliff, is about five feet ; at Ostend, between Bacton 
 and Hasborough, about thirty, and at Mundsley, one 
 hundred feet. 
 
These deposits aie occasionally mixed with masses of 
 red sand, containing pipes of hard clay. 
 
 This formation presents the appearance of a wood, 
 having been overthrown and crushed in situ; for after 
 strong north-west winds, the stumps of the trees may be 
 seen really standing, with their strong roots extended, 
 and intermingling with each other. In the winter of 
 1840-41, Mr. Green measured some of these trunks, 
 which were then exposed about a foot from the root. — 
 One measured five feet eleven inches round, and the other 
 five feet. 
 
 Whilst at Bacton this bed is fomied of black peaty 
 earth, at Ostend it is mixed with a greenish sand. Mr. 
 Lyell speaks of that at Hasborough as "laminated blue 
 clay, about one foot and a half in thickness, part of the 
 clay being bituminous, and inclosing compressed branches 
 and leaves of trees. 
 
 Mr. R. C. Taylor, in his Geology of Eastern Norfolk, 
 observes of the deposit generally : — " It consists of forest 
 peat, containing fir cones and fragments of bones; in 
 others of woody clay ; and elsewhere, of large stools of 
 trees, standing thickly together, the stems appearing to 
 have been broken off about eighteen inches from the base." 
 
 The Rev. James Layton, cited by Mr. Fairholme in his 
 Geology, states, in a letter, " the line of crushed wood, 
 leaves, grass, &c,, frequently forming a bed of peat, ex- 
 tends just above low water mark. About this stratum, 
 numerous remains of mammalia are found, the horns and 
 bones of at least four kinds of deer, the horse, the ox, 
 hippopotamus, rhinoceros, and elephant. These fossil 
 
62 
 
 remains are found at Hasborough and its neighbourhood, 
 on the denuded clay shore. At Mundsley, they are found 
 in the cliff. This stratum may be seen as the underlying 
 formation, along the whole line of beach from Eccles to 
 Mundsley." 
 
 At Cromer, Mr. Simons has observed, beneath the 
 drift, several feet below high water mark, a bed of lig- 
 nite, in which were found the seeds of plants, &c. He 
 also observed ten or more trees, in the space of half an 
 acre, exposed below the cliffs eastward of that town, the 
 stumps being a few inches, all less than a foot, in ver- 
 tical height, some no less than nine or ten feet in girth, 
 the roots spreading from them on all sides, throughout 
 a space of twenty feet in diameter. 
 
 Mr. Richard Taylor believes this bed, as visible at 
 Hasborough, to be an extension of the well-known stra- 
 tum at Watton cliff and Harwich. " There is," he says, 
 " evidence sufficient to prove that it extends more south 
 than Palling, even as low down as Winterton, and Cais- 
 ter; also at Lowestoft." 
 
 The two last strata nearest the chalk are the 
 
 Blue Clay and the Red Gravel. 
 
 These two beds " seem to have been deposited contem- 
 poraneously, as they are much intermixed, and every 
 where contain the same species of mammalian remains. 
 From the unusual quantity of bones contained in these 
 strata, they have been provincially termed the Bone Rocks, 
 but from the immense quantity of elephants' bones an- 
 nually exhumed, they may, for the sake of distinction, 
 
63 
 
 be termed the Elephant Beds." In some places the blue 
 clay is deposited upon the red gravel. 
 
 The red gravel appears to be composed of rolled mate- 
 rials, which no doubt have been brought to this place 
 from some distance. It comprehends a mixture of red 
 sand and gravel, ferruginous and ochraceous nodules ; 
 blue clay, peat, sulphur, loam, flints, pebbles, masses of 
 granite, porphry, fragments of and whole bones, and is 
 much mineralized by iron. 
 
 These rocks are traceable to a considerable distance 
 beyond Cromer. 
 
 The immediate bed upon which the strata rests ap- 
 pears to be 
 
 Chalk. 
 
 This is met with about half a mile north-west of 
 Mundsley, about low water mark, and for upwards of a 
 mile forms the beach. Near Trimingham three very re- 
 markable protuberances, which rise up and form a part 
 of lofty cliffs. Further northward, masses of chalk are 
 included in the drift, or crop out in the interior, at a 
 short distance from the shore, as at Overstrand, near 
 Cromer, where a pit has been worked, in which the chalk 
 is in a very disturbed and shattered state. At Cromer, 
 the chalk has been again detected, and is every where 
 the fundamental rock, lying about the level of low water, 
 and rising on the north of that town, to the height of 
 some yards above the level. At Sherringham it ascends 
 above high water mark, and enters largely, from thence 
 to Weybourne, into the strata of the cliffs. 
 
64 
 
 From the appearance then of so much chalk in the 
 immediate neighbourhood, and some of it apparently in 
 an undisturbed state, as may be seen by its horizontal 
 layers of flint at Sherringham, beyond doubt its existence 
 may be concluded both to the east as well as the north. 
 
 In the year 1836, the humerus bone probably of the 
 Great Mastodon, was found at Bacton, after a very high 
 tide, one side of which, from the appearance it presents, 
 must have reposed upon chalk. This bone was discovered 
 in the red gravel, which, in many places, is the nearest 
 bed to the chalk. Fragments of chalk are attached to 
 the bone. 
 
 In the early part of this year the tibia probably of the 
 same animal, was exposed, and obtained after a high tide 
 by Mr. Green, in whose possession it still remains. 
 
(j5 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 OBSERVATIONS UPON THE CLIFFS CONTINUED. LAND- 
 SPRINGS, THEIR INJURIOUS EFFECTS, WITH PLAN TO 
 COUNTERACT THEM. REDUCTION OF THE CLIFFS CON- 
 SIDERED ADVISABLE, ESPECIALLY WHERE GREAT IRRE- 
 GULARITIES IN SAND DUNES EXIST, WITH A PLAN TO 
 INCREASE THEIR HEIGHT WHERE NECESSARY. 
 
 Having considered the cliffs with respect to the contour 
 they present, the different strata composing their struc- 
 ture, the injury they experience from the atmospheric air, 
 from drought, from heavy rains, from severe and succes- 
 sive frosts, and from the formidable visitations of the 
 German Ocean against their base ; yet, they possess an 
 internal enemy peculiar to themselves, which in certain 
 localities is more formidable than the ocean itself — these 
 are the Land-springs previously alluded to. 
 
 To check their baneful influence is a task that requires 
 consideration, for although we know their existence, we 
 cannot tell whether they arise from a broad or a narrow 
 surface, at a great depth, or at a considerable distance 
 from whence they are seen to issue; and although so 
 serious in their consequences, yet the extent arising from 
 such contingencies, on this part of the coast, is generally 
 limited. 
 
66 
 
 Wherever they abound, the cliffs ought, where practi- 
 cable, to be reduced from a perpendicular to an inclined 
 plane ; then let stakes, or rather strong piles, be driven in 
 a parallel direction to the extent required, and sufficiently 
 deep into the solid strata beneath, at short distances one 
 from another, with splines fastened horizontally, or what 
 would be preferable, strong wooden faggots interposed 
 between the piles and the cliffs, especially where the 
 materials consist of a loose texture ; these would be found 
 efficient, until a more natural, solid, and lasting support 
 could be obtained. 
 
 Great benefit might be derived by sinking wells on the 
 inner or land side of the cHffs, subjected to their influ- 
 ence ; for at Trimingham, the loss of four acres and a half 
 of land, mentioned in a previous chapter, is primarily 
 attributed to a foolish individual, who a few months before 
 filled up three wells in the immediate neighbourhood. 
 
 The question now comes — would it not be advisable to 
 remove generally, where practicable, the taller cliffs? — 
 Possibly it would. 
 
 1st. The air in heavy gales of wind would not be so 
 much condensed against their base, and add so much 
 weight to the waves when nearing the shore as is now 
 evidently the case, and the latter would be less liable to 
 disarrange the legitimate beach during its formation. 
 
 2ndly. Wherever land-springs abound, an egress for 
 the fresh water would ensue, without causing shoots of 
 land to take place, where the former exist beyond or 
 rather above the reach of the stakes recommended, which 
 might retard the formation of the legitimate beach. 
 
67 
 
 3rdly. — It will be decidedly applicable, where dunes 
 or hills of blown sand from their irregularity, produced 
 from the north-east winds, are reduced to an extent liable 
 to admit an irruption of the sea, observable at Eccles, 
 Palling, (fee. 
 
 And lastly. The application of a plough in a locaUty 
 where such fissures exist, upon the plan recommended in 
 the ensuing chapter ; and due attention to the transplant- 
 ing the marram* from time to time as required, will ac- 
 complish the rest without directly interfering with the 
 land belonging to private individuals on the inner side of 
 those banks. 
 
 * This valuable variety of grass would, the author thinks, iiccome more 
 serviceable, if, on attaining its full growth, known by the ears containing 
 the seed being ripe, it were mown down. The advantage derivable would 
 cause the blades to spring up much thicker than they now do, and the seed 
 being threshed, might be sown in any locality requiring its presence; and it 
 evidently appears to be the easiest and most certain method to propagate it. 
 
 I 2 
 
68 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 THE author's plan FOR EVENTUALLY COUNTERACTING 
 THE INJURIOUS EFFECTS OF THE GERMAN OCEAN ALONG 
 THE EASTERN COAST OF NORFOLK, COMPRISED WITHIN 
 A DISTANCE OF THIRTY MILES, EXTENDING FROM WIN- 
 
 TERTON-NESS TO OR A LITTE BEYOND CROMER. A PLAN 
 
 FOR THE ERECTION OF JETTIES SUBMITTED, kc. 
 
 The knowledge gained upon this interesting subject, the 
 instances adverted to in the former chapter, prove almost 
 beyond a doubt, that the question — Whether art can ar- 
 rest the progress of the German Ocean along the Norfolk 
 coast? may be answered in the affirmative. 
 
 The first and greatest desideratum necessary to be ob- 
 tained is a bold shore, formed by a legitimate beach, a 
 term applied by the eminent engineer, previously alluded 
 to, who stated its ascent should be three inches and a 
 half in the yard, which would realize seventeen feet and a 
 half in one hundred and sixty yards ; a height which no 
 sea upon this coast could ever reach. 
 
 From there being plenty of materials in the offing, the 
 ascent could be more gradual, which would be preferable, 
 for a two-fold object must be kept in view; the one, for 
 the preservation of the lands in the interior; the other, 
 for the safety of mariners, should misfortune attend and 
 
69 
 
 compel them to run their vessel ashore. Besides the more 
 abruptly a body presents itself, whether natural or artifi- 
 cial, to the almost irresistible force of the tidal wave, when 
 called into excessive action, the less it is likely to remain 
 stable and compact. It will therefore be necessary to 
 ascertain the extent of the shoals existing in the offing, 
 and the elevation likely to be realized may easily be cal- 
 culated. 
 
 A single row of piles driven into the beach at right 
 angles to the shore, wherever a shallow exists, will be 
 sufficient, with plank fastened to them, to encourage the 
 materials, brought by the tidal wave and current, to be re- 
 tained and lodged against them. The length of the piles 
 necessary, must depend upon the supposed elevation re- 
 quired, taking into consideration, not only the depth of 
 the sand lying at the bottom of the shallow, but also the 
 strata beneath. In a very short time, by gradually add- 
 ing the plank, the shallow will become filled up, and 
 the tidal wave will pass over without disturbing its 
 surface, the same plan must be adopted wherever a 
 shallow exists at low water mark, but possibly the diffi- 
 culty of applying the plank in that situation cannot be so 
 easily accomplished; consequently a greater number of 
 piles will be required, as they must be inserted near to 
 each other. 
 
 After a shallow has been filled to the level of the 
 beach then existing, and the upper part of the pile still 
 projecting, let plank, if necessary, be gradually added 
 about one or two feet in breadth at a time, as the deposi- 
 tion accumulates. 
 
 Proceeding onwards into the sea as opportunity offers, 
 
70 
 
 some portion of the slioals will be removed into the shal- 
 lows ; another, probably, will be carried towards the cliffs. 
 To facilitate this object, let a long tined harrow be fas- 
 tened to the stern of a boat, which being urged by men, 
 will loosen the materials on the surface of a shoal ; and 
 the flowing of the water will carry them, if the wind is 
 in a favourable quarter, towards the shore, and thus will 
 the beach become a consolidated body, with superabun- 
 dant materials deposited at high water mark: these of 
 course must be removed towards the cliffs. If the ma- 
 terials consist principally of sand, a plough might be em- 
 ployed with considerable advantage, turning the furrows 
 inward towards the cliffs ; on the contrary, should stones 
 predominate, they must be deposited at the base of the 
 cliffs. Easterly winds will remove the loose dry sand 
 towards and fill up the spaces between them Many sug- 
 gestions, however, to expedite the work will present them- 
 selves upon inspection and trial.* 
 
 The distance required from one row of piles to another 
 must also depend upon circumstances. Wherever the sea 
 reaches in, should a shallow or flat exist, there piles will 
 be necessary, as well as to the southward of it, which 
 will greatly accelerate the deposition of materials [where 
 they are so much required. 
 
 Discrimination will also be necessary in the application 
 of the piles ; for a minute and continuous observer will 
 perceive it frequently happens, the alteration of a current 
 and the wind favouring it, the sea will reach in towards 
 the cliffs, and undermine and excavate one locality, while 
 
 * It is scarcely necessary to observe, until the legitimate beach is formed, 
 stones, sand, &c., must not be taken away, and afterwards only with dis- 
 crimination.- See Appendix. Eccles. 
 
'V' ,^^*' 
 
 ^«rfe 
 
 -V ^' 
 
 Oh 
 
 ^ I* 
 
 ^3 
 
 
 tn 
 
 .'t :- 
 
 
 .i<' i 
 
 H 
 
 'Hti 
 
 O 
 
 
 
 
 W 
 
 * 
 
 CO 
 
 •i 1 
 
 i 
 
 ^'^^' 
 
 a 
 
 .-^~"^.^' 
 
 "^Z- '^ 
 
71 
 
 another, previously visited, will become filled up by mate- 
 rials dislodged from the former place.* In the latter in- 
 stance, piles will not be required to be applied imme- 
 diately, for probably some of the materials, irregularly 
 accumulated, will be requisite to be shifted to their for- 
 mer situation. Hence the reason of applying- piles to the 
 southward and not to the northward of a locality requir- 
 ing immediate assistance. 
 
 Again, considerable difference in the insertion of the 
 piles must be made according to the contour the beach 
 presents; between a distance continuously flat, and a 
 shallow that only requires to be filled up. In the latter 
 a few piles inserted from west to east, will answer ex- 
 tremely well ; in the former, an opposite direction must 
 be pursued; that is, from the south-west towards the 
 south-east, according to the accompanying plate, for the 
 sweep of the water must be taken into consideration, and 
 also the necessity for encouraging sea-beach materials to 
 accumulate to the southward of a groin, as w^ell as to 
 the northward. Upon this our final success depends. 
 
 While the above plan presents the least resistance to 
 the tidal wave when most agitated, the tidal current will 
 be checked and rendered powerless, and the gradual ele- 
 vation, from the deposition of materials, will produce the 
 effects exhibited by the breaking of the waves on a 
 shelving shore; and, as they roll onwards, their power 
 
 * Examples observable at Eccles, the cliffs opposite the lower Light- 
 house at Hasborough, off the high lands Hasborough, Ostend Point, AVal- 
 cot, a point off a remnant of the parish of Keswick, off the Watch-house, 
 Bacton, Cox's Point, Mundsley, Trimingham, Cromer, &c., in some in- 
 stances scarcely ever any sea-beach materials accumulate, and the water 
 reaches the cliffs at half-tide, especially upon the springs. 
 
72 
 
 will become diminished, by wanting weight and depth to 
 aid their motion. 
 
 In several places on this beach, the sand, shingle, &c., 
 do not exceed four feet in depth, and in some instances 
 are still shallower ; thus at Cromer, a large body of cal- 
 careous deposition exists, and projects above the beach 
 at low water mark; but between that and the cliffs, now 
 temporarily protected by a sea wall, a shallow or cavity 
 of considerable length and depth must have existed : this 
 induced the inhabitants, who had witnessed the good the 
 jetty had effected (previous to the injury Cromer sus- 
 tained, and alluded to in a former chapter), to insert a 
 groin immediately to the southward, or rather westward, 
 of the town, eighty-four yards in length. 
 
 The shallow or cavity became filled up to the top of 
 the groin, and a quantity of sea-beach material, consist- 
 ing principally of sand, seemed disposed to accumulate 
 against the base of the walls in June, 1844, but unfor- 
 tunately the groin was not sufficiently extended towards 
 the sea; the piles, instead of projecting above, did not 
 equal in height the mound alluded to, and consequently 
 it is not so efficacious as it would otherwise have been. 
 
 The jetty too has some influence towards prohibiting a 
 still further proof of the efficacy of this groin, at least 
 along shore to the northward, or rather eastward ; for 
 rude in construction, it is ill calculated to effect a two- 
 fold object, which ought to arise from it. The platform 
 resting upon piles of huge dimensions in height and dia- 
 meter, appears to have been one continuous length, from 
 the base of the cliffs to the elevated rock at low water 
 mark. Its considerable altitude above the surface of the 
 
73 
 
 beach, its unwieldy structure, from the timbers employed, 
 and above all, its extent towards the sea being limited, 
 accounts for its partial destruction in the storm alluded 
 to. The dashing of the waves against the piles, even in 
 calm weather, gives an impetus to the water at their base, 
 and produces eddies or whirlpools, which prevent sea- 
 beach materials accumulating in the immediate vicinity. 
 
 The inhabitants, however, appear so far to have been 
 aware of this circumstance, that in repairing the jetty, 
 they had recourse to iron stanchions, presenting a flat 
 surface towards the sea; but the same impediment to 
 utility still exists. 
 
 Let us now consider whether a jetty could not be con- 
 structed to afford not only a delightful promenade, the 
 necessary appendage to a frequented watering place, but 
 the retention of sea-beach materials, and the consequent 
 elevation of the beach. 
 
 For this purpose let wooden piles of English oak be 
 employed, of requisite length to enter the solid strata 
 beneath the surface of the beach. The extremity for in- 
 sertion must be pointed and shod with iron, and the oppo- 
 site end must be protected with a rim of the same mate- 
 rial, which ought to project above each pile, so as to 
 leave a cavity sufficiently deep to receive the one end of 
 an iron pillar, about eight or more inches in diameter, 
 if considered necessary ; and the length of this iron pillar 
 being determined, its upper part can be readily formed to 
 support the wooden plank constituting the platform of 
 the jetty, to which it can be fastened. Now, if the piles 
 are inserted into the beach in a continuous range towards 
 the sea, leaving a space between each pillar, from two 
 
 K 
 
74 
 
 to three feet apart, it may readily be inferred, that the 
 desirable object will be realized, and a permanent good 
 will be obtained. The expense, in the first instance, will 
 of course be considerable, but its durability and useful- 
 ness ought to supersede such an obstacle. 
 
 It is a source of congratulation to observe considerable 
 economy in the expenditure which so great an undertaking 
 requires, can be effected by using, in a general way, the 
 Pinus Sylvestris, or red fir, grown in the neighbouring- 
 plantations ;* these, if taken down in the winter months, 
 trimming them, and depositing them in the sea, in readi- 
 ness for insertion as opportunity suits, will retain their 
 resinous properties in the greatest abundance, and pre- 
 vent the exudation, which an exposure to the spring and 
 summer months would inevitably produce. Upon the 
 resin they contain their toughness depends, and by adopt- 
 ing the above plan, and using those small in diameter, 
 the instrument necessary for propelling them into the 
 beach, will not disturb the surface of the pile most ex- 
 posed to its influence. The following instance will prove 
 their durability, and that a careful insertion of the piles 
 is only necessary to render their stability certain, even if 
 extraordinary gales should cause the legitimate beach to 
 be disturbed. 
 
 At Mundsley, several years ago, not within the me- 
 mory of the oldest inhabitant, some fishermen drove four 
 piles, six inches in diameter, into the beach, between high 
 
 * London, in his Encyclopaedia of gardeninj?, informs us, the Finns Syl- 
 vestris, commonly but erroneously termed Scotch fir, can be obtained much 
 cheaper, and of a better quality, in Scotland than in England. It appears 
 the soil is more conj^enial, particularly in some districts, where the wood 
 equals in texture that grown in America. 
 
75 
 
 and low water mark, for the purpose of forming what is 
 termed a coy, for containing lobsters caught at sea, until 
 an opportunity for their disposal occurred. To the piles 
 were attached some boards, so as to form a square, with- 
 in which was placed a box for their reception ; and a piece 
 of wood, fastened upon the top, prevented the box from 
 being disturbed by the water. At length, however, it 
 became disused, the boards attached to the piles gave 
 way, but the latter still remain firmly imbedded in the 
 strata beneath, and their tops are only visible when north 
 and north-west winds prevail, the sand lying around, 
 above, and between them being then removed. 
 
 The shipowner, and above all the hardy sailor, cannot 
 but rejoice at the prospect of obtaining a broad beach 
 upon an inclined plane, for should a vessel be driven on 
 in ever so heavy a gale, instead of having to contend 
 with the cheerless prospect now before them, rendered 
 not only formidable, but terrible, from the numerous 
 shoals existing on this coast, there would be only one, 
 and the vessel would arrive at its destination in a more 
 gradual manner; her keel would become almost imme- 
 diately impacted in the sand to such an extent, as to ren- 
 der her steady ; for the waves having to attain an ascent, 
 would be checked in their career, and for want of depth, 
 would neither be able to injure the vessel nor destroy the 
 mariner : hitherto, the great power they possess has, in 
 many instances, dashed the former to pieces after she had 
 struck the beach, and the latter has been hurled towards 
 it, either too suddenly, or by their rebounding, swept 
 into the depths below ; while he, poor creature, so long- 
 as consciousness or presence of mind exists, uses his feeble 
 efforts to reach the blessed shore, but, alas ! too fre- 
 quently in vain ; he either sinks, to be wafted to another, 
 K 2 
 
76 
 
 a lifeless, mangled corpse, or arrives too late to be saved, 
 even if the vibration of the heart exists, for v\^ant of pro- 
 per accommodation and attention. If a legitimate beach 
 could be once formed, a little exertion and assistance 
 from those on shore, would be able to rescue him from 
 the now almost inevitable destruction. 
 
77 
 
 CHAPTER XT. 
 
 THE CONCLUSION. 
 
 Let not the plan proposed in the previous chapter make 
 too hasty an impression, or cause the reader to be too 
 sanguine as to the result, however it may bear the sem- 
 blance to truth and reality ; but, if upon inquiry, consi- 
 deration, and inspection, it is found to originate in facts, 
 not theory alone, let no longer time be wasted in delaying 
 a trial of its efficacy than is really necessary. 
 
 For a series of years, the wondrous body of waters has 
 committed most dreadful ravages upon this and other 
 coasts, not only to the loss of property, but what is of 
 far greater consequence, human life. 
 
 Many countries, that have been destroyed, bear melan- 
 choly witness to the truth of history, and show the tops 
 of their houses and the spires of their steeples, still stand- 
 ing at the bottom of the water. The German Sea has 
 advanced upon the shores of Holland near Catt, that the 
 ruins of an ancient citadel of the Romans, which was 
 formerly built upon the coast, are now actually under 
 water. In Friezland and Zealand, there are more than 
 three hundred villages overwhelmed, and their ruins con- 
 tinue still visible on a clear day. The Baltic Sea has by 
 
78 
 
 slow degrees covered a large part of Pomerania, and 
 among others destroyed and overwhelmed the famous port 
 of Vineta. 
 
 One of the most remarkable inundations recorded in 
 history, occurred in tlie reign of Henry I., which over- 
 whelmed the estates of the Earl Godwin, and formed the 
 bank now called the Goodwin Sands. 
 
 In the year 1546, a similar irruption of the sea de- 
 stroyed a thousand persons in the territory of Dort, and 
 a yet greater number round Dullart. To these accidents 
 several more might be added; our own historians and 
 those of other countries abound with them ; almost every 
 flat shore of any extent being able to show something it 
 has lost, or something it has gained from the sea. 
 
 There are some shores on which the sea, where it has 
 overflowed, and after remaining perhaps some ages, has 
 again retired of its own accord, or been driven back by 
 the industry of man, which, if applied in the case sub- 
 mitted, would, we earnestly pray, verify the words con- 
 tained in the 5th chapter of the prophet Jeremiah, and 
 the 22nd verse. And should this design be found to 
 answer, who is there can deny that, by continued atten- 
 tion and perseverance, not only will the lands in future 
 be protected, but those which now appear lost, may in 
 after years be regained, and that the saving of human 
 life will be considerable. 
 
 There are many lands in Norway, Scotland, and the 
 Maldivia Islands, that are at one time covered with water, 
 at another time free. The country round the Isle of Ely, 
 in the time of Bede, about a thousand years ago, was 
 
79 
 
 one of the most delightful spots in the whole kingdom ; 
 it was not only cultivated, and produced all the neces- 
 saries of life, but grapes also, that afforded excellent wine. 
 The accounts of the time are copious in the description 
 of its verdure and fertility, its rich pastures covered with 
 flowers and herbage, its beautiful shades and wholesome 
 air. But the sea breaking in upon the land, overwhelmed 
 the whole country, took possession of the soil, and 
 totally destroyed one of the most fertile vallies in the 
 world ; its air, from being dry and healthful, from that 
 time became unwholesome, and the small part of the 
 country, which by being higher than the rest escaped the 
 deluge, was soon rendered uninhabitable from its noxious 
 vapours. The island continued under water some centu- 
 ries, till at last the sea, by the same caprice which had 
 prompted its invasion, began to abandon the earth in 
 like manner. It has continued for some ages to relin- 
 quish its former conquests ; and although the inhabitants 
 can neither boast the longevity nor the luxuries of the 
 original possessors, yet they find ample means of sub- 
 sistence, and if they happen to survive the first years of 
 residence there, they are often known to arrive at a good 
 old age. 
 
 On this coast several manors and large portions of the 
 neighbouring parishes have been swallowed up ; nor has 
 there been any intermission, from time immemorial, in 
 the ravages of the sea within a distance of twenty miles 
 in length in which these places stood. 
 
 Many a poor fisherman has lost his life within sight of 
 his parents, wife, and children, whose uplifted hands, 
 streaming eyes, and shrieks of wild despair, proclaimed 
 the pangs they endured, the agony they suffered, at losing 
 
80 
 
 their offspring, their husband, their father ; and this too, 
 when the tenderest ties of affection endeared them to 
 each other ; on a sudden lost, gone for ever ! leaving 
 those behind, who, if not bereaved of their senses en- 
 tirely, remain during their sojourn in this vale of tears, 
 for ever broken-hearted and disconsolate. This gloomy 
 picture may appear over-drawn ; but, alas ! it is too true 
 and melancholy to think of, where such accidents are fre- 
 quent, and likely to continue till time shall be no more. 
 But there is a ray of hope, that the object which appears 
 so difficult to accomplish, may eventually be attained by 
 the industry of man, with the means given and trans- 
 mitted from the acquisition of knowledge, through an 
 Allwise and Merciful Creator. Let us earnestly pray that 
 His blessing may be bestowed upon our humble en- 
 deavours, to the fulfilment of this or a superior design. 
 
81 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 BACTON. 
 
 Bacton or Backton, termed in the Doomsday Book Baketuna, is 
 situated about four miles and a half north-east by east of North 
 Walsham. From bordering on the sea, it continually experiences 
 its devastating effects, which is the more to be regretted, as the 
 land, about 1600 acres, is extremely fertile. 
 
 The Church, dedicated to St. Andrew, is a neat edifice, situated 
 on elevated ground, about a quarter of a mile distant from the sea; 
 and the interior, though unadorned with costly monuments, contains 
 several neat stones to record departed worth. 
 
 The venerable relic of Norman grandeur Broomholme Priory, 
 generally termed Bacton Abbey, is situated in the centre of the 
 village, and from its being in a better state of preservation than 
 probably any other in this county, which possesses the astonishing 
 number of one hundred and twenty-two, is ever a source of interest 
 to the lovers of antiquity. 
 
 The architectural style of the Priory of Broomholme appears to be 
 that of the Norman and the early or lancet gothic united. 
 
 The editor of the General History of the County of Norfolk says: 
 " A part of its architecture is so entirely of the same style as Nor- 
 wich Cathedral, that it can scarcely be doubted but they are of the 
 same era." 
 
 The north transept, with its triforium arches, many of which still 
 remain, bears some resemblance to those of Norwich Cathedral and 
 the Church of St. Nicholas, Yarmouth. 
 
 The churches generally were built in the form of the latin cross, 
 terminating at the end in a semi-circular apsis. The internal eleva- 
 tions consisted of three divisions, the lower arches— the triforium, 
 
&2 
 
 occupying the space between the vaulting and external roof of the 
 side aisles— and the celestory. 
 
 The circular arched entrance north of the transept appears to be 
 built of Caen stone, and though plain, attests the origin of at least 
 this part of the building. To the east a very lofty arch presents 
 itself of the early gothic. 
 
 The chapter-house has a very large window of the early pointed 
 gothic, supposed to have been added in the reign of Henry the VII, 
 but it appears of a much earlier date. 
 
 The arcades of the face of the interior walls are very plain and 
 simple; and are intended to take off the effect of a large extent of 
 plain surface as the windows are'but small. This appears to have 
 been general in all Norman architecture. 
 
 The chimney is very modern, as the builders of the middle ages 
 gave the preference to warming their halls by a central hearth, leav- 
 ing the smoke to blacken the roof and escape as it best might by an 
 open lantern. 
 
 The niche in the north transept, which bears traces of the orna- 
 mental gothic, was probably added with other parts of the building, 
 as the abbey increased in fame and opulence. 
 
 The following are the supposed dimensions of the various build- 
 ings, &c. : — 
 
 The church ..112 feet 
 
 North transept 22 feet by 18 feet 
 
 Chancel 23 feet 
 
 Quadrangle . . 73 feet by 47 feet 
 
 Cloister 7G feet by 2! feet 
 
 Large hall . , lUO feet by 24 feet. 
 
 This priory was founded in 1113, by William de Glanville, in the 
 reisn of Henry the Fiist, for monks of the order of Cluni, as a cell 
 to Castleacre priory. Here the monks of the latter sent their junior 
 brethren, when too much crowded at home, or refractory monks, to 
 do penance for non compliance with monastic rules. Subsequently, 
 Bartholomew de Glanville, who was Sheriff of Norfolk and Suffolk, 
 confirmed the priory of Castleacre to this priory.— The first prior 
 was inducted to the abbey in the reign of Henry the First, and the 
 last in the reign of Henry the Eighth. 
 
 The monks attached to this establishment appear, according to 
 early historians, to have derived great profit from a cross, said to 
 have been made out of that part of the Saviour's cross to which the 
 hands and feet were attached, particularly the part where it was 
 most sprinkled with his blood ; and Capgrave informs us, " that no 
 fewer than thirty-nine were raised from the dead, and nineteen 
 blind persons had their sight restored by it," 
 
83 
 
 In tbis priory were also preserved the "girdle for Zona, and milk 
 of the blessed Virgin, and fragments of the crosses of St. Peter and 
 St. Andrew." 
 
 Such was the rage for relics in former times, that Mabillon, a 
 Benedictine, complained that the altars were loaded with counter- 
 feits ; numerous spurious ones being every where offered to the piety 
 and devotion of the faithful. He also observes, " that bones were 
 often consecrated, which so far from belonging to the saints, pro- 
 bably never belonged to Christians !" To shew how far this fraud 
 extended, the " girdle" of the Virgin Mary, said to have been pos- 
 sessed by the monastery of Broomholme, was shown to the visitors 
 appointed by Henry the Eighth, in eleven different places. 
 
 The following '* Legendary Fragment," written by an intimate 
 friend of the Author's, may not be deemed inappropriate: — 
 
 Broomholme, thy ruined grandeur tells 
 
 A saddening tale of man's decay, 
 It speaks how all his glories pass, 
 
 How all his relics droop away ; 
 How all his efforts fall a prey 
 
 To Desolation's ruthless reign, 
 How all the records he would trace 
 
 The hand of Time ontblots again. 
 
 Thou hast looked forth for ages past. 
 
 And seen the unwearying ebb and flow 
 Of yonder calm and azure sea. 
 
 Glittering in summer's golden glow ; 
 And oh ! how many a winter's snow 
 
 Hath wrapped thee in its spotless vest. 
 How many a Spring with cheerful hand 
 
 Thy fair domain in beauty drest. 
 
 How oft within thy ruined fane 
 
 Has many a haughty zealot knelt. 
 And muttered o'er some holy prayer 
 
 His thankless heart had never felt : 
 Thou'st heard the groans of souls that melt 
 
 With anguish and repentance cleft. 
 Who, though engulphed in blood and crime. 
 
 Had yet the hope of mercy left. 
 
 Oh ! could yon gloomy pile reveal 
 
 The thousand tales its records bear, 
 And rend the dark mysterious seal 
 
 That Time has fixed for ever there. 
 
84 
 
 Perchance 'twould tell of pain and caie. 
 The same unvarying round of woe, 
 
 The same dark chain of human ills 
 That links us all to life below. 
 
 Twould tell of horrors dark and dire, 
 
 Tliat well the sternest heart might thrill. 
 How man with rapine, sword, and fire, 
 
 Had wrought with zeal his brother's ill. 
 Strange that ungrateful man should fill 
 
 The cup of woe, for pride or pelf, 
 Yet madly, fondly, vainly hope. 
 
 To taste the streams of bliss himself. 
 
 Twould tell how bright, to Childhood's eyes. 
 
 The glory of existence seems, 
 How swiftly life's ensuing hours 
 
 Lose one by one their golden gleams. 
 How fondly Hope's delusive dreams 
 
 The hearts of men with smiles enslave. 
 How those forlorn and weary here. 
 
 May learn to look beyond the grave. 
 
 And Fancy often wanders back. 
 
 Through Time on her enciianted wings. 
 To snatch one legend from the gloom 
 
 That age about thy ruin flings. 
 And thus Imagination sings 
 
 In fond conceit and varied lay. 
 With all a Poet's trembling pride, 
 
 "A tale of Broomholme's Abbey grey.' 
 
 The northern blast is sighing now. 
 In every withered leafless bough. 
 
 The dirge of the departed year ; 
 And the lone sea-bird's dismal wail. 
 That ever comes in storm and gale. 
 
 Foretells the gathering tempest near. 
 
 The gloom of night is deepening fast. 
 And on the wild and fitful blast 
 
 The stormy clouds like shadows fly ; 
 And darkened by their rapid flight. 
 The pale and placid orb ot night 
 
 Is shrouded from the seaman's eye. 
 
 The vivid lightning's transient flash. 
 And then the deafening thunder crash, 
 Proclaims the elemental war ; 
 
85 
 
 And when the lightning leaves the skies, 
 And when the rolling thunder dies, 
 Hark, how the raging waters roar. 
 
 The wild waves that in wanton play 
 Fling to the winds their feather'd spray, 
 
 But seem to'mock the angry sky; 
 But seem to sport in maddening pride. 
 When all is dread and dark beside, 
 
 And ghastly Death is hovering nigh. 
 
 Morn : oh ! how many anxious eyes 
 
 Have watched the live-long night for thee. 
 
 That from the threshold of the skies, 
 
 Now looks o'er a tempestuous sea ; 
 
 The ocean that so softly bright 
 
 Hath mirror'd oft the Queen of Night, 
 
 In lustrous lines of liquid light, 
 
 And, oh ! have looked so calm and fair. 
 
 As if no storm could gather there. 
 
 Like to those living lights that shine 
 
 So pure and placid from the eyes. 
 
 When at Religion's holy shrine 
 
 The humble soul in rapture lies, 
 
 And gloomy passions wake within, 
 
 That lead away the heart to sin ; 
 
 Then all that looked so fair and bright, 
 
 So pure in its own sportive glee. 
 
 Becomes a torture and a blight. 
 
 And wilder than the raging sea. 
 
 The gale now slowly dies away. 
 With the approach of dawning day. 
 And every wave that chafes the shore. 
 Salutes the strand with sullen roar. 
 And on the beach in sadness flings 
 All that to Hope was once so sweet. 
 Like trophies which a warrior brings. 
 And lays them at his country's feet. 
 Records that blood and death had earned, 
 When mercy from her shrine was spurned. 
 Alas ! when angry storms break forth. 
 And wake the waters into wrath ; 
 Ah ! then the treacherous heaving wave 
 Rolls over many a wanderer's grave, 
 And striving winds and foaming surge 
 Sing many a mournful funeral dirge. 
 
 Oh, Heaven ! that such a lovely form 
 Could brave so dread and fierce a storm, 
 
86 
 
 That one so beautiful and trail 
 Could bide the harsh and bitter gale ; 
 And she who angels might have kept 
 In hallowed watches while she slept, 
 Is pillowed on the sandy shore, 
 Her lullaby the w aters' roar : 
 And frowning skies in sorrow spread 
 Their canopy around her head. 
 
 And now beside the maiden kneels 
 A messenger of fond relief, 
 One who with sweet religion heals 
 The w ounded spirit's cankering grief; 
 And raises from the chilly sand 
 The form that cold and lifeless lay, 
 Sustains it with a trembling hand, 
 And wraps it in his mantle grey. 
 And from that frontlet wipes away 
 The wanton water's brackish spray. 
 And now her wild and anxious gaze 
 Is fixed upon his swarthy cheek, 
 And faint and feei)ly she essays 
 Her wonder and despair to speak ; 
 And he who looked so calm before, 
 Is moved to tears of sorrow now. 
 That as he bends the maiden o'er, 
 Those drops of pity damp her brow. 
 He turns as though ashamed to own 
 His heart has soft and yielding grown. 
 And now is many an offer made 
 Of home and hospitable aid. 
 By those who throng around the maid, 
 To them the monk his charge commends. 
 With promises of bounteous pay, 
 And with a heart of trouble wends 
 His steps to Broomholme Abbey " grey." 
 
 What charm is there in Nature's smile. 
 When Hope be dead the weary while, 
 Or what in all the world can please, 
 When aching hearts are ill at ease. 
 And, oh ! what rapture could he feel, 
 Who left the fair and beaten track 
 Of sweet Religion's holy zeal. 
 And to the cold world wandered back ; 
 Whose only oriflamme should be 
 The sanguine cross of Calvary. 
 Yes, lie whose life had aye been spent 
 In self denial's lowly creed, 
 
87 
 
 In turning sinners to repent, 
 
 And share tlie Abbey's thrifty meed. 
 
 Yes, he who taught that heavenly love 
 
 Should all absorb the anxious mind. 
 
 That hearts should look to hopes above. 
 
 And leave the thoughtless world behind : 
 
 Yes, he whose years though few had been. 
 
 In much of deep devotion past, 
 
 Who joy'd the smiling summer scene, 
 
 And braved the winter's bitter blast ; 
 
 Yes, he who told how dear and sweet 
 
 Was holy influence to the mind. 
 
 Who walked the world with weary feet. 
 
 To succour helpless human kind ; 
 
 Yes, he forgot for beauty's smile. 
 
 His oath to Heaven, his hopes above, 
 
 He gave his heart to pleasures wile. 
 
 And lost his soul for woman's love. 
 
 Yes, he foigot the lowly mien. 
 
 The holy mass, the rosary, 
 
 And all that he had ever been, 
 
 For hopeless love and misery. 
 
 Alas ! that grief should ever wear 
 
 So pale a cheek with sorrow's tear. 
 
 That anguish and remorse should trace 
 
 Their furrowed lines on' Beauty's face. 
 
 And early troubles lead the way 
 
 For dread disease and slow decay. 
 
 There is a canker of the breast 
 
 That pleasure cannot charm away, 
 
 VV^hen the young heart becomes a prey 
 
 To dread disquiet, and un-rest. 
 
 Day after day— day after day. 
 
 Along that smooth and sandy shore. 
 
 Did Herbert with fair Edith stray. 
 
 Oft listening to the angry roar 
 
 Of the wild ocean's troubled sound, 
 
 Till the fair earth had wandered round 
 
 The presence of the glorious sun ; 
 
 And when the winter had begun 
 
 To shackle every limpid river. 
 
 And silence every gurgling rill, 
 
 And in the woodland on the hill 
 
 The aspen leaves had ceased to quiver. 
 
 And every minstrel in the wood 
 
 Was silent in its solitude, 
 
 Those lovely birds that gaily chanted 
 
 Their songs of gladness from the grove ; 
 
 Ah ! oft had Edith's bosom panted 
 
88 
 
 With silent and siiprpme ilolij-ht, 
 Wlien they have woke the lovely night 
 With their melodious songs of love. 
 Ah ! many and many a lovely eve, 
 Beneath the Heaven's bespangled root", 
 Did her young heart delight to weave 
 The future like a fairy woof: 
 And with her Herbert by her side, 
 In the sweet hush of eventide, 
 When night-blown flowers of beauty rare 
 With perfume filled the stilly air ; 
 Often in those delightful hours. 
 When the young dreamy heart of youth 
 Plucks many a wreath from Fancy's bowers. 
 And knits them on the brow of truth. 
 And once she said, with tearful eye. 
 With quivering lip, yet tender tone. 
 As if her weak and trembling heart 
 Were half afraid its fears to own — 
 " Herbert forgive, I know thou wilt, 
 Or else my heart the wish would rue, 
 Ah ! if it bears the taint of guilt. 
 In mercy. Heaven, absolve me too. 
 When death with chilling hand shall sever 
 The souls that nought but death could part, 
 Herbert, a slow consuming fever 
 Is burning at my brain and heart : 
 I feel that death is calmly stealing 
 Over my senses, day by day. 
 Immortal longings and a feeling 
 Of rapture charms my pulse away. 
 Herbert, dear Herbert, my request. 
 My last sad dying wish would be. 
 That in the last embrace of death, 
 My rest may then be near to thee ; 
 And by the willows that o'ershade 
 The streamlet on the woodland hill, 
 Our dust may be in sadness laid, 
 And, though in death, together still." 
 Down Herbert's cheeks the drops of woe 
 Coursed sad and slowly— whilst the maid 
 Her last and earnest wishes prayed. 
 It was a dread and bitter throe- 
 Such as fond hearts, when doomed to sever. 
 At once unheeded and for ever. 
 Pure ardent souls alone could know. 
 He clasped her to his aching heart — 
 Her brow, alas ! how pale and chill ; 
 An icy glaze is o'er her eye. 
 And yet her lips are quivering still. 
 
89 
 
 Ah ! what is all the world to him ? 
 
 A sleepless ni^ht, a cheerless day, 
 
 Now those endearing eyes are dim, 
 
 And his twin spirit passed away. 
 
 Now what to him is hill or dale, 
 
 The summer's sun or winter's gale ? 
 
 Alas ! they only tell a tale 
 
 That wakes a sorrow in his breast, 
 
 Whispering' o'er and o'er again. 
 
 That he was blest, supremely blest. 
 
 Autumn or winter, summer or spring. 
 
 What are they now to him ? 
 
 He walks the earth like a withered thinj 
 
 Whose lamp of life is dim. 
 
 The keenest pangs of mortal woes. 
 And Sorrow's agonizing throes, 
 The briny drops of Misery 
 That overflow the mourning eye, 
 When Hope has lost its faintest gleam, 
 Will make tlie sweetest Eden seem 
 A barren and unkindly waste. 
 Alas ! how bitter to the taste 
 Is that dark cup Remembrance fills 
 T^'ith all the worst of human ills. 
 And crowns with pleasures past away. 
 As waters silently decay 
 The flinty rocks they hourly fret, 
 So does the wildness of Despair, 
 And the slow canker of Regret, 
 The weary human bosom wear. 
 
 In Brooraholme's cloistered turret now 
 Herbert de Colville lowly lies. 
 And withered is his burning brow, 
 And haggard are his frenzied eyes ; 
 Those wandering orbs whose meteor light 
 Shines wildly from their mortal spheres, 
 When Fe.ver like a deadly blight, 
 The wavering sense with madness sears ; 
 It fills the eye and rends the heart, 
 When Reason's heavenly rays depart. 
 And leave the mind so faint and dim. 
 That it had ever been to him. 
 To leave the Abbey's holy wall, 
 And from that sweet Religion fall, 
 That should have been his hope — his all. 
 When earthly scenes began to pall ; 
 That he should learn the bitter truth. 
 
90 
 
 ^\'lien buoyant hours are all gone by, 
 That the wild erring steps of youth 
 ]Miist be retraced, when health and prime 
 Have left the frame, and when the eye 
 Is dim with pain and misery ; 
 When the lone heart is worn and weak. 
 And the untiring hand of Time 
 Hath written Manhood on his cheek. 
 
 And round about him watchful stand 
 The Brethren of that holy band. 
 Whose pure devoted lives are given 
 To work the glorious will of Heaven, 
 And their's is not a bigot's zeal, 
 Whose dear delight is but to heal 
 The souls that pant for sweet repose, 
 O'erwhelmed with sin and worldly woes. 
 To succour in the hour of need 
 The hearts that ache and inly bleed, 
 Whose crown of glory is the meed. 
 That Love upon the soul bestows ; 
 The sweet rejoicing of the heart, 
 That well performs its mortal part ; 
 And not ingratitude nor shght, 
 Nor the world's cold and biting scorn. 
 Contempt and scoffing hourly borne, 
 Hath power to dim the holy light 
 That Love around her votary flings. 
 For she can wrap them in delight. 
 And fan them with ambrosial wings. 
 When death with calm approaches steep 
 Their senses in eternal sleep. 
 
 " Alas ! 'tis not my lowly couch, 
 Nor Misery's unkindest touch, 
 No, nor the world so long forgot. 
 Although in grief remembered now. 
 Nor yet my lone and humble lot, 
 That made me what ye see me now. 
 She was perchance an erring light, 
 A beauteous wandering meteor flame. 
 That on my waking vision came. 
 To cross my pathway like a blight ; 
 Or else a Heavenly spirit sent 
 From a diviner element, 
 Who left some star-lit world that lies 
 Far off in azure's seas than this. 
 To teach my spirit what sweet bliss, 
 AVere in her home beyond the skies. 
 
91 
 
 But yet she passed,— she drooped away, 
 
 Like a fair rose untimely b!ig!ited. 
 
 Like an Hymeneal altar lighted 
 
 On a fond bridegroom's dying day. 
 
 There was a flush upon her cheek, 
 
 That in my soul a sadness wrought, 
 
 A. warning voice that used to speak. 
 
 The lesson of her life's decay ; 
 
 There was a lustre in her eyes. 
 
 Like a celestial glory caught, 
 
 From some bright meteor of the skies. 
 
 There was a music in her tone. 
 
 Like the low wind of Autumn makes, 
 
 Through rhe lone woods in sadness sighing, 
 
 Mhen the brig'rit leaves and flowers are dyinir, 
 
 As if it sighed for their sweet sakes. 
 
 Although I know and feel slie died. 
 
 Her form and voice are with. me now. 
 
 These are the hands that from her brow 
 
 Were wont so often to divide 
 
 The tresses of her golden hair. 
 
 When the night winds had wanton *d there. 
 
 But when we wandered tliroiigh the glade. 
 
 And heard the night bird on the bough, 
 
 Or side by side together prayed, 
 
 Is but a fading vision now." 
 
 Broomholme's Abbey is old and grey. 
 
 And monks are kneeling tlie live long day, 
 
 From matin time till eve ; 
 
 Many and sweet are the Avcs they say, 
 
 And many the souls they shrieve. 
 
 At midnight, censors were brightly swinging, 
 
 And slowly and sad was the requiem singing. 
 
 And masses are singing still. 
 
 For him they laid in the willow's shade. 
 
 By the stream on the woodland hill. 
 
 CAISTER. 
 Caister or Caistor, a pleasant -village situated upon Ihe coast, 
 about two miles and a half to the northward of Yarmouth, possesses 
 the remains of a Roman station, and the ruins of Caister castle. — 
 A loftv circular tower and a large portion of the north and west 
 walls belonging to the latter are very prominctit. This is supposed 
 to be one of the oldest brick mansions in Ens; land. It was erected 
 by Sir John Fastolf, who ^^ as born here, or at Yarmoulh, in 1378. 
 He entered early in life a brilliant military career, and signalized 
 himself by many acts of bravery during a foity years' campaign 
 M 2 
 
92 
 
 under the English Regency in France, and history records, in the 
 course of this period, he was made in the field of battle a Knight 
 Banneret, a Baron of France, Knight of the Garter, Marshal of the 
 Regent's Household, the King's Lieutenant in Normandy, and pro- 
 gressively appointed to various public offices. He subsequently re- 
 turned to Caistor, and his liberality, munificence, and acts of cha- 
 rity were not equalled in the period in which he lived. He became 
 a founder of religious and other edifices, a generous patron of learn- 
 ing, an encourager of piety, and a benefactor to the poor. 
 
 A quibble on the name of this truly great and eminent man has 
 been raised by some authors, who supposed him to be the Sir John 
 Falstaff, whom our immortal bard Shakspeare delineated in the 
 humorous but abandoned character as constantly lounging about the 
 court of Prince Henry (afterwards Henry the Vth. of England). — 
 The poetical Falstaff was nearly threescore years of age at the bat- 
 tle of Shrewsbury, A. D. 1403, when the Norfolk hero was not more 
 than twenty-five. The former ended his career soon after Prince 
 Henry ascended the throne — the latter survived Henry the Vth. 
 thirty-seven years, and died at Caistor in 1459. 
 
 CROMER. 
 
 Cromer, formerly a small market town, is situated nine miles 
 N. N. W. of North VValsham, and on the verge of the German 
 Ocean. At the Doomsday survey Cromer formed part of the lord- 
 ship and parish of Shipden, a considerable village, which, with its 
 church, dedicated to St. Peter, appears to have been swallowed up 
 by the sea about the time of Henry the 4th. A patent to c llect 
 certain dues for the erection of a pier was granted in the 14ih of 
 Richard II. At neap tides, in calm weather, are still to be seen, 
 about half a mile distant from the shoie, large masses of wall, which 
 are supposed to have belonged to the church alluded to. 
 
 Many large portions of land were washed away in 1611, previous 
 to which the inhabitants expended considerable suras of money and 
 ingenuity in a fruitless attempt to maintain a small harbour. In the 
 winter of 1799, the light house cliffs, projecting from the beach 
 three hundred and twenty feet, made several remarkably large 
 shoots, one of which brought with it half an acre of ground, and 
 extended into the sea beyond low water mark. On January 15th, 
 1825, another large mass of earth was detached from the light-house 
 hills, and fell with great force on the beach, extending in breadth 
 above three hundred yards from the cliffs, covering an area of twelve 
 acres, and containing, it was supposed, not less than half a million 
 of cubic yards of earth. The fall of this enormous body was sud- 
 den and unexpected. A large stream of water issued from the bank 
 
93 
 
 iramet] lately after its fall, and discharged itself down upon the 
 beach with great noise and violence. Early in the morning of 
 August 19th, 1832, another large shoot of the cliffs occurred near 
 the light-house, which threatened the destruction of that useful 
 edifice. It was deemed expedient to erect another on the hill, two 
 hundred and fifty yards inland ; but the remains of the old one are 
 still standing about three-quarters of a mile east of the town, where 
 it was built of brick in 1719. 
 
 These immense landslips were almost entirely owing to the numer- 
 ous fresh water springs abounding in this locality, but the damage 
 the town of Cromer experienced, and referred to in Chapter III., 
 was caused by the ocean, during a continuous gale of wind. 
 
 According to tradition, Cromer church, dedicated to St. Peter and 
 St. Paul, is supposed to have been erected in the reign of Henry 4th, 
 soon after the village of Shipden disappeared. It is a large and 
 handsome edifice, built of flint and free stone, in the Gothic style, 
 with a fine tower 154 feet in height, and richly ornamented with 
 sculpture. The west entrance, the north porch, and the chancel 
 have been long in ruins, and Aery little of the latter now remains ; 
 and history informs us, that many of its ornaments were destroyed 
 by Cromwell's soldiers, who converted it into barracks. 
 
 As a watering place Cromer richly deserves the celebrity it has 
 attained ; and the encomiums conferred by those who have visited it 
 during the siimmer months, are certainly not exaggerated. Nature 
 indeed, appears to have bestowed her favours with no spaiing hand 
 to render it a deliglitful retreat for the invalid- or those who require 
 a relaxation from the noise and bustle of a city life — and for those 
 who are desirous to prosecute their studies with ease and comfort, 
 almost amounting to enchantment. The most fastidious could but 
 be pleased with the beauty of the surrounding scenery — with the ac- 
 commodation provided by enterprising individuals — with the civility 
 and courteous demeanour of its inhabitants, who from the highest 
 to the lowest grade, take every possible pains to deserve lasting 
 esteem and friendship. The fishermen too are exceedingly well 
 behaved, and their looks pourtray a contentment approaching to 
 happiness, that indicates the labour attending their peiilous vocation 
 is rewarded. 
 
 The village of Shipden, with its church dedicated to St. Peter, 
 which lay between Cromer and the sea, has wholly disappeared. 
 
 ECCLES. 
 
 Eccles by the Sea, nine miles east by south of North Walshani, 
 was a hamlet of the great lordship of Hasborough oi Happisburgh, 
 from whence it is about two miles distant. It not only a}ipears fast 
 
94 
 
 sinking into oblivion itself, but also holds a fearful destiny over a 
 large tract of valuable marsh land in the eastern division of the 
 county, by reason of the inlet it may sooner or later afford to an 
 irruption of the sea. 
 
 In the reign of Edward the Confessor it was held by Edric, a 
 Dane of noble extraction, afterwards by Ralph, Earl of Norfolk, 
 through whom it became foifeited to the Cro«n. William the Con- 
 queror bestowed it upon Roger Bigot, whence it passed successively 
 into the hands of William de Albini, ancestor of the Earls of Arun- 
 dale, William le Parker, and several other noblemen of renown in 
 the annals of chivalry. 
 
 Many curious privileges and customs the lords of the manor de- 
 rived in those days— for we find in 33rd of Edward the 1st, 1305, 
 Wiliiam le Parker was entituled to receive v.'reck of sea, lagan, and 
 resting geld, customs, and other profits upon the sea and land, and 
 of every crew of a ship or boat washing their nets in the said vil- 
 lage after Michaelmas to Martleraas, an hundred herrings, and also 
 a fee for goods, chattels, SiC, coming to land by sea, without the 
 help of the said William or his servant, or resting upon the land 
 one day and one night ; and if the said William or his men, Sec, 
 immediately after imminent danger, or after shipwreck, shall do 
 their endeavour to save such things, then the said William shall 
 have a third part of all such things, or the value of them, unless 
 of bis good will he will omit something, but must not be asked. — 
 Among the land customs was the bed gild, and at every wedding, 
 noble or ignoble, the lords of the manor had the privilege of con- 
 summating the nuptials of the bride, or receiving a fee instead. This 
 indecorous system prevailed in some parts of Scotland not many 
 years since. 
 
 These arbitrary laws, enacted in the eailier period of England's 
 history, when ignorance prevailed, and barbarism allowed the 
 honouicd and the wealthy to impose exactions cruel and oppressive, 
 on those beneath them, may possibly have in many instances, from 
 humanity, been omitted. At all e\ents, as knowledge advanced, we 
 find that not only have those which pressed so heavily upon the 
 poor industrious fishermen been cancpllcd, but that others have 
 been reduced to an extent compatible with the necessary protecaon 
 to property exposed to the i ilferer, from lamentable accidents on 
 the coast. And it is highly gratifying to observe, that until recently 
 no murmur or complaint has been raised against the lords of the 
 manor, and this is confined to two or three districts, and arose from 
 the following circumstance :— From time immemorial, it appears, 
 persons have been allowed to take whatever sea-beach materials 
 llicy required for domestic or other purposes, \\ithout molestation 
 
95 
 
 or the exaction of any fee. But the increasing demand induced 
 individuals who were deputed by the lords of the manor to officiate 
 in their stead, to apply for permission to charge so much per 
 freight or load ; which being granted, a pretty income has been 
 realized from the hundreds of loads of sand, stones, &c., removed 
 annually.— A curious coincidence, however, is connected with it. 
 One of these deputy lords, a few years since, observed that the 
 removal of sea-beach materials, within a given distance of the road 
 or gangway to the beach, afforded an inlet for the ocean to under 
 mine and remove the foot of the gangway to such an extent, thai 
 an expence was necessarily incurred, from time to time, in repairing 
 it, besides the loss of land on either side of it. He therefore ap- 
 plied for permission to lix up a board in the vicinity, on which was 
 printed — 
 
 " By order of the Magistrates. 
 " Notice is hereby given— Should any person or persons take 
 away or remove any sand near the gangway and foot of the 
 cliffs, he or they shall be prosecuted, and upon conviction, 
 shall suffer the extreme penalty of the law." 
 
 But strange to relate, no sooner did the deputy lord receive per- 
 mission to dispose of the sea-beach materials, than the board was 
 taken down, and individuals are permitted to take them away, if 
 not in the immediate vicinity of the gangway, at least at the foot or 
 base of the cliffs. 
 
 Every remaining vestige of Eccles denotes antiquity. Ancient 
 stone walls have been exposed within the last three years by the 
 action of the sea, removing lofty sand hills, and the peasantry 
 have picked up silver and copper coins of great antiquity. But a 
 still stronger evidence of a remote period may be traced in the wells 
 constructed with large unburned bricks, formed in a mould wider at 
 one end than at the other, to adapt them to the true circumference of 
 the well itself. It is quite clear the wells had been filled up with 
 earth, and ceased to be used before the abandonment of the place, 
 since near to every one of them is a stone well, built with mortar, 
 similar to the churches, which possibly denotes the first step to- 
 wards civilization in this country. It formerly contained two thou- 
 sand acres of land, but so wasted by the incursion of the German 
 Ocean, that the inhabitants, in their petition for a reduction of 
 taxes, in the reign of James the 1st, complained they had then only 
 fourteen bouses and three hundred acres of land. The whole now 
 comprises a few cottages, with the church tower, and one hundred 
 and fty acres of land. The church was dedicated to St. Mary. 
 History informs us, that the parish of Whimpnell, formerly situated 
 
m 
 
 between Hasborough and Eccles, has been entirely removed by 
 the sea. 
 
 HASBOROUGH. 
 
 Hasborough, denominated also Happisburgh, situated seven miles 
 south-east of North Walshani, is a considerable village, containing 
 a church dedicated to St. Mary. Its steeple, 110^ feet in height, 
 stands on an elevated point of land, and is extremely useful to the 
 mariner as a land-mark. In former days a large wooden cross pre- 
 sented itself a considerable height above and from the centre of the 
 the steeple, which rendered it still more conspicuous, and prior to 
 1818 it became so decayed, that it was blown down. The inhabit- 
 ants erected another in its stead, which, during a heavy tempest in 
 1822, unfortunately served as a conductor for the electric fluid, 
 vrbich demolished it, and also a large portion of the south-east but- 
 tress ; the latter fell upon and passed through the roof of the church, 
 on to the aile beneath. On this occasion the electric fluid set fire 
 to the church, and had not the promptest measures been resorted 
 to, it must have been destroyed. 
 
 Here also was erected, in 1791, two light-houses, the one a hun- 
 dred and the other eighty feet high. The upper part of each ter- 
 minates in a dome ; immediately beneath is the lantern, and on the 
 outside a platform, surrounded with iron palisading, whose verge 
 consists of a flat piece of the same material. Some years since, an 
 unfortunate individual, subject to mental aberration, while in an 
 extremely excited state, walked on the top or rim of the palisad- 
 ing, round one of the lights. This feat he safely accomplished, and 
 extraordinary to relate, it had the desirable efiect to render him 
 calm and collected for several years. 
 
 A lover of the picturesque would be amply repaid for the trouble 
 taken to reach the platform, wliich, as before observed, describes a 
 circle, the one half presenting, on a clear day, a beautiful marine 
 view, the other a splendid landscape. 
 
 In the former, the ocean, as far as the eye can reach, exhibits a 
 vast expanse of troubled water, imparting sound which murmurs 
 discontent. Its bosom too, after northerly and north-easterl}' winds, 
 is frequently bedecked with vessels bound to some distant port, and 
 from their being so numerous, so variable in size and form, and 
 gliding so near the shore, they produce a beautiful panorama, not 
 surpassed on any other part of the coast. 
 
 From the latter is seen in the distance, the spire of Norwich 
 Cathedral, Cromer and Winterton light-houses. The intermediate 
 space presenting pretty scenery of hill and dale, with here and there 
 a mansion surrounded with plantations. The spires of the village 
 
97 
 
 churches too arc numerous and conspicuous, and the ruins of anti- 
 quated buildings, especially the Priory of Broomhohne, at Baoton, 
 is a picture in itself invitinaj our thoughts to roam to by-gone times. 
 — The lands divided with fonces, neat and trim, and the fields, 
 exhibit, during the summer months, the various colours of the 
 ripening corn. Farm-houses located at uncertain distances, and the 
 humble cottages of the industrious poor, present at once a coup- 
 d'asil oHhe blessings conferred on industry and enterprize. 
 
 To the Geologist and tlie Antiquarian a fine field for research, and 
 a glorious treat, is alforded tliem. Within a short distance to the 
 northward are lofty cliffs, containing in the different strata, relics of 
 animals ; some similar to those in the present day ; others that never 
 existed in the memory of the oldest historian ; and those which now 
 exist only in the torrid zone. The shells of fish that only inhabit 
 rivers whose waters have departed to other channels, whose beds 
 have been covered up probably for ages, while the trunks of trees, 
 and stumps, with their strong roots extended, are frequently ex- 
 posed after strong gales of wind. 
 
 To the southward is old Eccles steeple, ready to be snatched 
 into the briny ocean ; at its foot, towards the sea, is the remaining 
 portion of the sacred edifice, with other foundations, indicating 
 •where once had existed the humming noise of human beings, exer- 
 cising their vocation for individual and collective benefit. On either 
 side of the old steeple arc capacious banks, where the marram 
 grows spontaneously, whose long tufts conceal the wily rabbit and 
 the timid hare. Here the weary may rest ; the contemplative pic- 
 ture to himself scenes that are past, present, and to come. Here 
 pic-nic parties, merry meetings, the young and old, may partake of 
 a delightful recreation, which a wonderful yet beautiful world pre- 
 sents ; containing the fountain from whence all Philosophy springs 
 and ends, and embracing the evidence of an Infinite Being, in the 
 grandeur and magnificence of Creation. 
 
 HORSEY. 
 
 Horsey next the Sea must have been formerly one of the most 
 uninviting hamlets ever beheld. It lies between Waxhara and 
 Winterton, and is eleven miles north by west of Yarmouth. Its 
 lonely situation, its containing a large lake, called Horseyraerej and 
 intersected with ditches of stagnant water, cannot render it even 
 now prepossessing. And were it not for its complete exposure to 
 wind from every quarter, it probably would be very unhealthy. — 
 Such a singular aspect did it assume some years since, that an early 
 historian, alluding to Horsey, recommended it to the notice of go- 
 vernment, as being peculiarly adapted for prisoners of war, espe- 
 
 N 
 
98 
 
 cially the French ; observing they could be retained there readily, 
 as there was only one road to it ; and its growing roots in abundance, 
 besides an innumerable quantify 'of I'rogs, the expense for main- 
 taining them would be inconsiderable. 
 
 The present proprietor's hishly respected ancestor, about fifty 
 years since, purchased the manor, when it was of little value, being 
 generally flooded, and having expended a considerable sura of 
 money in draining the marshes, repairing the sea-bank, and making 
 a road to Somerton, an adjoining village leading to Yarmouth, has 
 rendered it one of the most feriile estates in the county. 
 
 On the sea-bank within the bounds of tliis parish is Little Wax- 
 ham, a manor of 160 acres; but the village, and its church dedi- 
 cated to St. Margaret, were swept away by the ocean many years 
 ago. 
 
 KESWIC. 
 
 Keswic or Casewic, situated to the east of Bacton, appears to 
 have been part of ihe manor, and extended to this pluce and Broom- 
 holme. In 1382, the church, dedicated to St. Clement, was stand- 
 ing, and when it became deserted cannot be determined. 
 
 Extensive ruins remained for several years, which were taken 
 down on the day of the coronation of George the Third and Queen 
 Charlotte, with the exception of a small portion, now forming walls 
 to two or three cottages. 
 
 A considerable part of the village is now in the sea from the fall- 
 ing of the clilTs 
 
 MUNDESLEY. 
 
 Mundesley is a pleasant village, situated about five miles north 
 by east of North Walsham, and has considerably improved during 
 the last few years, but, similarly to Bacton, to which it is annexed, 
 is continually wasting by the sea. A villa erected by F. Wheatley, 
 Esq., commands a beautiful marine view, but to preserve it from the 
 rapacity of the ocean, upwards of three thousand pounds have 
 been expended. 
 
 PALLING. 
 
 Palling next the Sea lies between Eccles and Waxhara, and is 
 about twenty miles north-east of Norwich. It is celebrated in ancient 
 records as being the residence of Godwin, Earl of Kent, in the 
 reign of Edward the Confessor. William the Conqueror afterwards 
 seized on it, and at the grand survey, Godric was bailiff or steward 
 of it for that king. 
 
99 
 
 Within tlie last few months, the sea has removed the beach 
 at low water mark, and exposed the strata beneath its su! face. In 
 it are the remains of the trunks and roots of trees ; the former 
 broken off from three to four feet above the strata, wldle around lie 
 the remaining portions consisting of the branches, leaves, &c., but 
 very much compressed. The bark of the beech is very distinct, but 
 the oak, and especiaily the red fir, are in the best state of preserva- 
 tion. The wood of the latter has evidently undergone considerable 
 chemical change, for the ligneous or iibrous part is very perfect, but 
 its resinous properties are absent, consequently the wood v.hen 
 dried, is macli lighter, and smells strongly of sulphur. It is impos- 
 sible to ascertain how long the trees h?.ve been covered up, but pro- 
 bably some centuries. 
 
 TillMINGflAM. 
 Trimingham is situ->ted on the tall cliffs between Mundesley and 
 Cromer, and five miles noith by east of North Walsham. Like the 
 former, it has been subject to the encroachments of the ocean for a 
 series of years, and is now reduced to a small village. The church 
 stands on the highest point of the cliffs; and history relates that its 
 ancient priests professed to have the head of St. John the Baptist. 
 Pilgrims came a long distance with great offerings, and thus became 
 the dupes of superstition and deceit. 
 
 WAX HAM. 
 
 VYaxham lies on the coast between Palling and Horsey, and is 
 about fourteen miles north-west of Yarmouth. This parish was 
 formerly much more extensive, and altliough it has not been en- 
 croached upon for some years, yet the sand hills appear evidently 
 inclined to recede. 
 
 The church, dedicated to St. John, exhibits considerable dilapi- 
 dation, the chancel end being quite in ruins. In the church-yard 
 lies interred the remains of the unfortunate mate of the Hunter 
 cutter. 
 
 WELLS. 
 
 Wells next the sea is situated five miles north by west of Wal- 
 singham, and 32 miles north-west of Norwich. It possesses a toler- 
 ably good harbour and several neat buildings, but its streets are 
 very irregular. The church, dedicated to St. Nicholas, is a neat 
 edifice, with a square tower. On July 15th, 1817, a gale of wind 
 from the north produced so high a tide, that the marshes near Wells 
 became inundated. 
 
 N 2 
 
100 
 
 WINTERTON 
 
 Winterton is an ancient village, annexed to Horsey on the south, 
 and within eight miles north by west of Yarmouth. It is sheltered 
 on the north-east by a bold promontory called VVinterton-Ness, and 
 well known to the mariner as the most fatal headland between Scot- 
 land and London. The church, dedicated to the Holy Trinity and 
 All Saints, possesses a iine tower, 118 feet in height, which com- 
 mands an extensive view of the ocean. 
 
 On the 27th of December, 16G5, a tremendous high tide caused such 
 alarming breaches in the sand hills at Winterton, Horsey, and Wax- 
 ham, as to threaten destruction to all the valuable marsh land from 
 thence to Yarmouth, IJeccles, 6^c, 
 
 YARMOUTH, 
 
 Frequently termed Great Yarmouth, is the principal sea-port town 
 in Norfolk, and 123 miles distant N. E. of London. It stands 
 on the east bank of the river Yare (from whence it takes its 
 name), at its confluence wilh the Bnre, about two miles from the 
 mouth of the haven, which is very extensive and commodious. — 
 From the appearance of the country, and an ancient chart, supposed 
 to have been drawn about A D. 1000, it is evident thai a bioad and 
 extensive estuary divided this j art of the eastern coast, not only in 
 the time of its most ancient inhabitants, but for a long period after 
 the Saxon Conquest, extending its waters westward to the city of 
 Norwich, northward to Caistor, Keedham, Herringby, and Strump- 
 shaw, and southward to Gorleston, Burgh, Bungay, Harleston, and 
 Haddiscoe This large arm of the ocean forming the grand recep- 
 tacle of all the eastein waters of Norfolk (as it still continues under 
 the circumscribed form of the Yare), began to disappear after the 
 fifth century, when the sand collecting at its entrance, was, by the 
 action of the waters, gradually formed into an island, which ulti- 
 mately extended itself to the main land, and became the peninsula 
 on which Yarmouth is founded. Several successive disappoint- 
 ments, and an immense outlay of capital in endeavouring to erect 
 substantial havens for the guidance of the river waters into the sea, 
 had been experienced, and at length finally accomplished by the 
 erection of those btauliful piers and noble jetty. In 1528 the work 
 was commenced, and on the 2nd day of March, 1559, men, women, 
 and children, to the number of one thousand, were employed, and 
 succeeded, in the short space of two days, in causing the water to 
 issue forth into the sea, leaving a depth of ten feet at ebb tide. In 
 
101 
 
 16G7, the water forced a passage down the old channel, towards the 
 village of Gorton. After this disaster, a celebrated Dutch engineer 
 wa8 employed, who commenced his operations by driving and 
 hedging down large stakes and piles, to make a firm substantial 
 foundation; this vvas first done on the north and afterwards on the 
 south side of the entrance, for the purpose of forcing the ebbing of 
 the tide to run out by a north-cast channel. The next step was the 
 erecting of piers for preventing the haven from overflowing, and pie- 
 serving, at all times of the tide, a sulficient depth of water for ships 
 to float at their moorings. The jurisdiction of the haven includes 
 that part of the sea called Yarmouth roads, extending northward 
 to Scratby, and southward to Gorton, in Suflblk. 
 
 Inundations, Shipwiiecks, &c. 
 
 In 1287, St. Nicholas' Ghurch was completely inundated by the 
 sea, during a tremendous flood, that did incredible damage to the 
 town, the greater part of which was under water. 
 
 In 1554, fifty sail of vessels was lost in one day and night, and 
 the crews perished. 
 
 In 1692, a fleet of two hundred sail of colliers, having left the 
 roads with a fair wind, were suddenly assailed by a tremendous 
 gale from the norih-east. After they had passed Winterton-ness, 
 some of them tacked and arrived back safe in the roads; the re- 
 mainder pushed out to sea, but were unable, through its violence, 
 to clear the Ness to the southward. The night was exceedingly 
 dark, and missing the lights, few could find their way ; some rode 
 out at a distance; but the rest, amounting to one hundred and forty 
 sail, were driven ashore, completely wrecked, and scarcely any of 
 the crews saved. At the same unfortunate juncture, a number of 
 coasting vessels, laden with grain, bound to Holland, from Lynn 
 and Wells, having just left the roads, experienced the same disas- 
 ter; so that in the whole more than two hundred vessels and one 
 thousand people were lost in twenty-four hours. 
 
 If vessels leaving Flamborough Head, proceed southward, and 
 meet with a heavy gale from any point between north-east and 
 south-east; or if leaving the Yarmouth roads, proceeding to the 
 northward, they are retarded by the wind blowing hard from the 
 north-east, so that they cannot weather Winterton-ness, they be- 
 come embayed, and the only chance for safety is to run for the 
 Lynn Deeps, in attempting which they are in danger of foundering 
 on the rocks near Cromer, or stranding on the flat shores between 
 Gromer and Wells. 
 
 In 1790, seventy sail of ships met with a similar fate, and also 
 their crews. 
 
102 
 
 In 1791, a raging tide inundated tlie denes and the meadows to 
 such a depth, that bnats rowed on Southtown turnpike. 
 
 In 1805, a tremendous storm at sea occurred, accompanied by a 
 raging; tide, which nearly destroyed the old jetty. 
 
 In 1825, a destructive tide ensued, which did much damage to 
 the town. The water flowed nearly to the doors of some of the 
 houses on the quays. The Southtown road was completely over- 
 flowed and rendered impassable, the lower apartments in several 
 houses on the west side were under water, and much corn, grain, 
 and other merchandize in the store-houses spoiled, 
 
 To do ample justice to the highly inleresting records associated 
 with this celebrated sea-port town, would form a volume in itself, and 
 the ingenuity and embellishments displayed by its inhabitants, to 
 be properly appreciated ought to be visited, to form a lastin-j im- 
 pression of their industry. Situated on a narrow strip of land, less 
 than a mile in breadth, and stretching five miles from north to south, 
 it cannot boast of any pretty inland scenery, as the country is ex- 
 tremely flat, but it possesses resources interesting and inviting to 
 the stranger. 
 
 Its harbour is excellently situated for affording shelter for vessels 
 unable to contend against contrary winds. Its extensi\e traffic in 
 coal and corn, and above all the celebrity it has attained for its her- 
 ring and mackerel fisheries, must ever render it a place of the 
 greatest importance. As a watering-place its merits must not be 
 forgotten. Splendid edifices and admirable accommodation have 
 been provided near the sea-shore, enabling its visitors to partake of 
 " delightful breezes to their hearts' content," or to mingle with the 
 gaieties of a city life. As a naval station during the late war, it 
 proved highly advantageous ; and in accordance with that circum- 
 stance, a beautiful Monumental Pillar was erected on the south 
 Denes, about a mile from the town, to the memory of the gallant 
 Nelson. It is of Grecian Doric order, elegantly fluted, and one 
 hundred and forty-four feet in heiuht, ascended by an easy flight of 
 steps. Upon the plinth are the names of the four ships, " Van- 
 guard, Captain, Elephant, and Victory," on board which the heroic 
 Admiral's flag was so valorously displayed ; and on the coping of 
 the terrace are inscribed the names of the four principal battles — 
 "Aboukir, St. Vincent, Copenhagen, and Trafalgar." On each of 
 the four sides of the pedestal is a flight of steps leading to the ter- 
 race, which afl'ords a promenade round the shaft. The roof is sup- 
 ported by Caryatides, surrounded by a ball, and a figure of Britan- 
 nia, admirably cast, holding in her hand a trident and a laurel 
 wreath. 
 
103 
 
 On tbe west side is a very elegant Latin inscription, from tiie pen 
 of a Norfolk Gentleman, of which the following is a translation : — 
 
 HORATIO LORD NELSON, 
 
 Whom, as lier first and proudest champion in naval fi«>hts, 
 Britain honoured, while living, with her favour, 
 
 and, when lost, witii her tears ; 
 
 Of whom, signalized hy his triumphs in all lands, 
 
 the wiiole earth 
 
 stood in awe on account of the tempered firmness of his 
 
 counsels, and the undaunted ardour of his courage ; 
 
 This great man 
 
 NORFOLK 
 
 Boasts her own, not only as born there of a respectable family, 
 
 And as there having received his early education, 
 
 But her own also in talents, manners, and mind, 
 
 The glory of so great a name though sure long to 
 
 Outlive all monuments of brass and stone, 
 
 His fellow-countrymen of Noifolk have resolved to commemorate 
 
 By this column, erected by their joint contributions. 
 
 He was born in the year 1758 ; 
 
 Entered on his Profession in 1771 ; 
 
 And was concerned in nearly 150 Naval Engagements with the enemy, 
 
 Being Conqueror, among various other occasions, 
 
 AtAboukir, August, 1798; 
 
 At Copenhagen, April, 1801; 
 
 And at Trafalgar, October, 1805: 
 
 Which last Victory, the crown of so many glorious achievements. 
 
 He consecrated by a death, equally mournful to his country, 
 
 And honourable to himself. 
 
 FINIS. 
 
104 
 
 LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. 
 
 The Right Honourable Lord Wodehouse, the Lord Lieutenant for the 
 County of" Norfolk. 
 
 The Right Honourable Lady Wodehouse. 
 
 The Honourable Miss Wodehouse. 
 
 The Right Reverend Dr. Stanley, Lord Bishop of Norwich, President of 
 the Geological and Linnean Societies. 
 
 The Most Honourable liie Marquis of DouRO, M. P. 
 
 The Most Honourable the Marquis of Cholmondeley. 
 
 The Right Honourable tiie Earl of Stradbroke, Lord Lieutenant for the 
 County of Suffolk. 
 
 The Right Honourable the Countess of Stradbroke. 
 
 The Right Honourable the Earl of Leicester 
 
 The Right Honourable and Reverend Lord Bayning. 
 
 The Right Honourable Lord Sondes. 
 
 The Right Honourable Lord Walsingham. 
 
 The Right Honourable Lord Behesford. 
 
 The Right Honourable Lord Charles Townshend. 
 
 The Right Honourable Lord Stafford. 
 
 The Right Honourable Lord Sandon, M. P. 
 
 The Right Honourable Lord Henniker, M. P. 
 
 The Right Honourable Lord Rendlesham, M. P. 
 
 The Honourable and Very Reverend George Pellew, D. D., Deau of 
 Norwich. 
 
 The Honourable and Reverend Frederick de Grey. 
 
 The Honourable Captain Edward Thornton Wodehouse, R. N. 
 
 The Honourable W . R. Rous. 
 
 The Honourable Mrs. Rous. 
 
 The Reverend Dr. Buckland, F. R. S. Professor of Mineralogy and Geo- 
 logy in the University of Oxford. 
 
 The Reverend Adam Sedgwick, M. A., F. R.S., Woodward ian Professor 
 to the University of Cambridge. 
 
 R. MuRCHisoN, Esq. President of the Royal Geographical Society. 
 
 Charles Lyell, Esq. F. R. S. Vice-President of the Geological Society. 
 
 General Grosvenor. 
 
 Lieutenant General Sir Edward Kerrison, M. P. 
 
 Lieutenant Colonel Robert Rushbrooke, M. P. 
 
 R. Sanderson, Esq. M. P. 
 
 The Honourable Mrs. Sanderson. 
 
 Edmond Wodehouse, Esq. M. P. 
 
 W. L. W. Chute, Esq. M. P. 
 
 Henry Negus Burroughes, Esq. M. P. 
 
 William Wilshere, Esq. M. P. 
 
 Benjamin Smith, Esq. M. P. 
 
105 
 
 Major William BeresfoRd, C. B., M. P. 
 
 Sir Robert J. Harvey. 
 
 Lady Harvey 
 
 Sir John P. Boileau, Bart. 
 
 Sir James Clark, Bart. AI.D. 
 
 Sir Charles Mansfield Clarke, Bart. M. D. 
 
 Sir T. F. Buxton, Bart. 
 
 Sir Jacob Preston, Bart. 
 
 Sir W. J. H. B. FoLKES, Bart. 
 
 Sir William Foster, Bart. 
 
 Sir Robert Shafto Adair, Bart. 
 
 SirT. S. GoocH, Bart. 
 
 Sir T. S. Dickens, K. C. H. 
 
 Admiral Sir George Parker. K. C. B. 
 
 Sir Henry Pelly, K.C. B. 
 
 J. Petre, Esq. 
 
 The Honourable Mrs. Petre. 
 
 A 
 
 Adair A. S., Esq., Flixton, SnflFolk 
 Adams Rev. Richard, Edingthorpe 
 Alexander Rev. John, Norwich 
 Alexander Captain, Twickenham 
 Ames Mr., Ingham 
 Amis Edward, Esq., Heigham 
 Anderson Mr., Hasborough 
 Armes 3Iiss, Sulton 
 Atkinson Rev. Henry, Bacton 
 Atkinson Mrs., Bacton 
 Atkinson Charles, Esq., Knapton 
 Atkinson Roberts, Esq., Walcot 
 Anfrere Miss, Norwich 
 Aufrere Rev. George, Ridlington 
 Aufrere Rev. P. Du Val, Seaming 
 Austrin Miss, Norwich 
 
 B 
 Bagge Edward, Esq., Lynn 
 Baker Robert, Esq., North Walshani 
 Baker Mr. William, Stalham 
 Bane Miss, East Ruston 
 Barber William, Esq., Sutton 
 Barber Mr., Hickling 
 Barcham Wm., Esq., Lower Sher- 
 
 ringham 
 Barne Fred., Esq., Dunwich, Kent 
 Bathurst Rev. Walter, Ludham 
 Beckwith A. A. H., Esq., Norwich 
 Bell Richard, Esq., Gorleston 
 Bel.Thos., Esq., F.R.S., London 
 Belts Mr. John, sen., Hasborough 
 Bickersteth John, Esq., ftl.D., 
 
 Liverpool 
 Bidwell Henry, Esq., North Walsham 
 Bignold Samuel, Esq., Norwich 
 Biiham Mr., Stalham 
 Birch Rev. Charles, Hasborough 
 Birkbeck Henry, Esq., Norwich 
 Blakelock Rev. R., Gimingham 
 Blyth Mr., North Walsham 
 
 Bolton Rev. H., Great Ormesby 
 
 Bond Mrs., Bacton 
 
 Borrett James, Esq., M. D., Great 
 
 Yarmouth 
 Bourne William, Esq., Stalham 
 Bower William, Esq., Heigham 
 Brightwen Thomas, Esq., Great 
 
 Yarmouth 
 Brightwen John, Esq , Great Yar- 
 mouth 
 Brown John, Esq., Stanway, Essex 
 Bulman Mr., Hasborough 
 Bulwer W. E. L , Esq., Heydon-hall 
 Burrows Rev. H. N., Great Yar- 
 mouth 
 
 C 
 Cannon Mr., Bacton 
 Cater Wm., Esq., Waxham 
 Cato Mr., Hasborough 
 Clark Mrs., JLudham 
 Clarke Rev. W. H., Great Yarmouth 
 Clarke Mr., Bacton 
 Clarke Mr., Hasborough 
 Clements Mr., Lessingham 
 Clowes Wm., Esq., Stalham 
 Clowes John, Esq., Great Ormesbv 
 Clutterbuck Henry, Esq., M. D., " 
 
 London 
 Cobbold N. R., Esq., Saxmnndham 
 Coleby John, Esq., North Walsham 
 C'oleby Chas., Esq., North Walsham 
 Colk Wm., Esq., North Walsham 
 Colk Mr., Ridlington 
 Colk Mr. John, Scottow 
 Collins John, Esq., Bacton 
 CoUyer Rev. Dr., Peckham 
 Comyn Rev. H. N., Brunstead 
 Conquest J.T., Esq., M.D., London 
 Cook Robert, Esq., Stalham 
 Cook Wm., Esq., Stalham 
 Cook Rev. S., Knapton 
 
100 
 
 Cook Lieut. Thos., F.R.S., Croydon, 
 
 Surrey 
 Cook Mr., ForncettSt. Peter's 
 Copeman Edward, Esq., Coltishall 
 Cooper Bransby, Esq., F R.S., Lon- 
 
 <ion 
 Cory JMr., Stalliam 
 Cotterill Rev. James, Blakeney 
 Coulson Wm., Esq., London 
 Cresswell Eras., Esq., King's Lvnn 
 Crosse J. G., Esq., F.R.S., Norwich 
 Crowe Wm., Esq., Catfield 
 Crowe Mr., Aslimanliaugli 
 Crowe Mr., Sutton 
 Cubitt Rev. Beujamln, Sloley 
 Cnbitt Mrs., Soutlirepps 
 Cuijitt Benjamin, Esq., Lessinghara 
 Cubitt Tliomas, Esq., Bacton 
 Cubitt Mr. William, Bacton 
 Cubitt Mr. John, Bacton 
 Cubitt Mr. Thomas, Witton 
 Cubitt Mr. Thomas, Ridliugton 
 Cn!)itt Mr. Robert, Ridlington 
 Cubitt Mr. Tnthill, Waxliam 
 Culley 51r. R., Bacton 
 Culley Mr., Stalham 
 Cnnningham Rev. F., Lowestoft 
 
 D 
 Dalrymple Archibald, Esq., Norwich 
 Day Rev. Chas., Norwich 
 Deacle Rev. H., Coltishall 
 Dibol Mrs., Ridlington 
 Dix Rev. Thos., li'stead 
 Dix John, Esq., Sniallbnrgh 
 Ducker INIr., Hasboiongh 
 Ducker Miss, Hasboroiigh 
 Diirrant Cubitt, Esq., Brunstead 
 Durrell Mr. John, East Ruston 
 
 E 
 Earle Charles, Esq., Cromer 
 Ebbetts John, Esq., Great Witch- 
 
 ingliam 
 Ellis Lieut. F.W., R.N , Southwold 
 Evans L., Esq., M.D., Norwich 
 Evans Charles, Esq., Norwich 
 
 F 
 Faulke Mr. James, Hasboroiigh 
 Fauquier Rev. G. W., Bacton 
 Fauquier Mrs., Bacton 
 Fenn Mr. Thomas, Stalham 
 Flavell Rev. John, Ridlington 
 Fletcher Mr. Charles, Hasborough 
 Flowerday Mr., Norwich 
 Flowerday Mr., Sutton 
 Foster Sampson, Esq., Norwich 
 Fowler Rev. F. C, Lowestoft 
 Frarey Mr., Lessingham 
 Frarey Mr., Hasborough 
 Frarey Mr., jun., Hasborough 
 
 Freeman William, Esq., Norwich 
 Freeman Mr., Hasborough 
 
 G 
 Gaze Mr. G., Honing 
 Gaze Mr., sen., East Ruston 
 Gee Mr., Bacton 
 Geldart Joseph, Esq., Norwich 
 Giiibs Mr. V., Staliiam 
 Gibbs Mr. G., Hickling 
 Gilman (\ S,, Esq., Norwich 
 Girling John, Esq., Bacton 
 Goocli E. S., Esq., Woodbridgc, 
 
 Suffolk 
 Gooding Jonathan, Esq., F. G. S., 
 
 Soutiiwold 
 Goodwin Harvey, Esq., Cromer 
 Gorh am Richard, Esq., Alderton, 
 
 SutFolk 
 j Gotts Mr. John, Stalham 
 Groom Mr., Hasborough 
 ! Gnrney Miss, Northrepps 
 I Gurney R. H., Esq., Norwich 
 Gnrney J. J., Esq., Norwich 
 Gnrney J. ti., Esq., Norwich 
 Gurney Danl., Esq., North Runcton 
 Guthrie J. G., Esq., F.R.S., London 
 
 H 
 Hall Mr., Norwich 
 Harbord Mr. R., Walcot 
 Harris Lieut. Thos., R. N., Palling 
 
 next the Sea 
 Harris Mr. Thos., Ashmanhaugh 
 Harvey Mr., Stalham 
 Harwich, tlie Council for the 
 
 Borough of 
 Hastings Mr., Catfield 
 Hawkins Bissett, Esq., M.D., Lon- 
 don 
 Heath Mr., Hasborough 
 Heath Mr., Cromer 
 Henderson Mr., Hasborough 
 Hewett Mr,, sen., AV'alcot 
 Hewett Mr , jiin , Walcot 
 Hewitt Rev John, Lessingham 
 Hewitt Mr. James, Les>ingha!n 
 Hilton John, Esq., London 
 Hoare Chas., Esq., Dawlish, Devon- 
 Hoare Mrs. [shire 
 
 Hockley Mr. Thos., Stalham 
 Hockley Mrs. 
 Howe Mr., Colchester 
 Howes Mr. R., Ridlington 
 Howes Mr., North Walsham 
 Huglus Mr., Lower Sheriingham 
 Hull Robert, Esq., M.D., Norwich 
 Huke Samuel, Esq., Ludliam 
 Humphrey Mr., North Walsham 
 Hutchinson Charles, Esq., M.D., 
 
 Norwich 
 
107 
 
 I J 
 
 Image Rev. Tlios. \\ hepstcaci, Suffolk 
 Ives Robert, Esq., Calthorpe 
 Jacobsoii Rev. Thomas, Magdalen 
 
 Hall, Oxford 
 Jackson Lieut. Thos., R.N., Bacton 
 James Lieut. Thomas, R.N., Lyme 
 
 Regis, Dorsetshire 
 Jimpson Mr., Sutton 
 Jocelyn James, Esq., Ipswich 
 Johnson Randell, Esq., Tnnstead 
 
 K 
 Keith Thomas M., Esq., Norwich 
 Kemp E. C, Esq., Coltishall 
 Kendall Peter, Esq., Aldeburgh, 
 
 Suffolk 
 Kennedy Mr,, Bacton 
 Kerrison E. C, Esq., Melbury, 
 
 Dorsetshire 
 Key C Aston, Esq., F.R.S., London 
 Kitsou John, Esq., Norwich 
 
 Lacey Mr. Robert, Stalham 
 Lack Mr. William, Ingham 
 Lacon J. E., Esq., Yarmouth 
 Lawes J. E., Esq., Gorleston 
 Lawrence Mr., R^isljorough 
 Leatherdale Kcv John, Smallburgh 
 Le-Frank Mr. Thomas, Stalham 
 Le-Frank Mr. James, Stalham 
 Leggatt Thomas, Esq., Worstead 
 Lewis Mr., Ridlington 
 Long William, Esq., Saxmundham 
 Long Mr., Hasborough 
 Lubbock Rev. John, Scottow 
 Lubbock Edward, Esq., M.D., Nor- 
 wich 
 Lyell Mr, Robert, Walcot 
 
 M 
 M'c Farlane Rev. John, Sutton 
 Mack Rev. Thonns, Tnnstead 
 Mack John, Esq.) Paston 
 Mack Mr. Thomas, Ludham 
 Manby Capt. G.W., R. N., Yar- 
 mouth 
 Mann J. R., Esq., Buxton 
 Manship Mr., Bacton 
 Marler Mr. Robert, Walcot 
 Marryat Captain, R.N, Langham 
 Marshall Mr. James, Bacton 
 Marshall INlr. William, Bacton 
 Mason Mr., Bacton 
 Mathews Rev. R. B., Hingham 
 Mathews George, Esq., Ingham 
 Martin Mrs., Bixley Hall 
 Martin Mrs., Stalham 
 Mattison Wm., Esq., Dilhani 
 Mays Mr. John, Suiton 
 Mead Edw., Esq., North Walsham 
 
 Millard Rev. C. F., Norwich 
 Millard Philip, Esq., North Walsham 
 Mornement Mr., Great Massingham 
 Mower Mr., North Walsham 
 
 N 
 Nassau Frederick, Esq., Prioiy, 
 
 Colchester 
 Nassau Mrs. 
 
 Neave Mr. Edward, Sutton 
 Newman Cubitt, Esq., Brunstead 
 Nickels John, Esq., Lessingham 
 Nickels Mr. James, Hasborough 
 Norman John, Esq., Colchester 
 
 O 
 Opie Mrs., Norwich 
 
 P 
 Page Mr. John, Ludham 
 Page Mr. Cubitt, Ludham 
 Palmer F. N., Esq., Yarmouth 
 Palmer Mr., Walcot 
 Parr Mrs., Stalham 
 Partridge Miss, Norwicii 
 Partridge H. S. Esq., Larlingt'ord 
 Peslle Mr. John, btalham 
 Pilgrim P., Esq., Ingham 
 Playford Harley, Esq., Northrepps 
 Pluninier Mr, John, East Ruston 
 Pope Mr., North Walsham 
 Pestle John, Esq., Smallburgii 
 Postle Wm., Esq., Smallburgh 
 Potter Mr., Norwich 
 Potter Mr., Edingthorpe 
 Pratt R., Esq., Norwich 
 Pratt Mr. R , Yarmouth 
 Prentice John, Esq., Noith Walsham 
 Preston Mr., Cromer 
 I'rovvett Rev. W m., Catfield 
 Pull Mr. John, East Kuslon 
 Pulling Capt. John, R.N., Yarmoiitli 
 Purdy Wm., Fsq., Paston 
 Pye Mr. William, Hasborough 
 
 R 
 Ready Rev. Henry, Palling nex; 
 
 the Sea 
 Riadore Evans, P2sq., London 
 Riches Mr., Walcot 
 Rising Robert, Esq., Horsey next 
 
 the Sea 
 Rudd John, Esq., Sutton 
 Rudd Ash, Esq., East Ruston 
 Rump Hugh, Esq., Wells next the 
 
 Sea 
 Rust J. M'., Esq., Cromer 
 
 S 
 Sandby Rev. G.O., Flixton, Suffolk 
 Sandell Mr., Walcot 
 Sanford Mr., Cromer 
 Saunders W., Esq , Great Yarmouth 
 Savory Mr. William, Sutton 
 
108 
 
 Scarland Mr., East Riiston 
 Scott Page N., Esq., Norwich 
 Sexton Mr. Robert, Bactoii , 
 
 Sheplieard Martin, Esq., North 
 
 AValshara 
 Shipley Mr., North Walsham 
 Shipley Mr., Waxham 
 Siely Andrew, Esq., Walcot 
 Siely Cubitt, Esq., North Walsham 
 Siely Mrs., Hasborongh 
 Siely Miss, Stalhani 
 Siely Mr. John, London 
 Siely Mr. James, Walcot 
 Siely Mr. John, Hasborongh 
 Siely Mr. James, Hasborongh 
 Siely Mr. William, Lessinghani 
 Siicock Mr. R. B., Stalhara 
 Slipper Mr. John, Stalham 
 Simons Mr., Cromer 
 Smith Capt. Spencer, R. N., Great 
 
 Yarmonth 
 Smith Mr. R., Norwich 
 Smith Mr. D., Stalham 
 Sonthgate Mr., Hasborongh 
 Spnrdens Rev. Thos., North Walsham 
 Sqnire R.D., Esq., Blackheath,Kent 
 Squire Mr., Knapton 
 Staff Mr., Hasborongh 
 Stanhaw Mr., Norwich 
 Stark VVm., Esq., F.G.S., Norwich 
 Stevenson and Matchett Messrs., 
 
 Norwich 
 Steward Rev. G. W., Caister 
 Steward Charles, Esq., Lowestoft 
 Steward Mr., Yarmouth 
 Steward Mr., Hickhng 
 Stone Henry, Esq., Norwich 
 Storey John, Esq., Barton 
 Sturgess Mr. W., Bacton 
 Summers Chas., Esq., Surgeon, Lon- 
 don 
 Sunman Mr., Sherringham 
 Sutton S., Esq., Palling next the Sea 
 
 T 
 Tanqueray Rev. Chas., Belaugh 
 Tawke Arth., Esq., M.D., Norwich 
 Taylor Shepheard, Esq., Dilham 
 
 Tonna Lewis J. H., Esq., London 
 
 Trory Mr. R., Stalham 
 
 Turner Dawson, Esq., Yarmouth 
 
 Turner Mr. Joseph, Witton 
 U 
 
 Upclier Rev. Arthur, Upper Sher- 
 ringham 
 
 Upcher Henry, Esq., Upper Sher- 
 ringham 
 
 Vincent J. P., Esq., London 
 Vincent Mr. G., Hasborough 
 Vint Henry, Esq., Colchester 
 
 W 
 Warner Mr. John, Walcot 
 Waines John, Esq., Trimingliani 
 Washington Capt. John, Harwich 
 Watts Mr. G., Catfield 
 Webb John, Esq., Stalham 
 Wells Thomas Mr., sen., Dilham 
 Wenn Mr. Wm., Smallburgh 
 West John, Esq., Stalham 
 Wentworih F. W., Esq., Barnsley 
 Whaites Charles, Esq., Norwich 
 Whaites John, Esq., Ingham 
 Whaites Robert. Esq., Ingham 
 Whall Mr. R., Sutton 
 White Rev. James, Stalham 
 Whittaker Mr., Waxham 
 Wilemite Miss, Stalham 
 Wilkins Rev. Edward, Hempstead 
 Wilkinson Rev. W. P., Saxlingham 
 Wilkinson G., Esq., North Walsham 
 Willis Mr., Stalham 
 Windham Capt. Henry, R.N., Cromer 
 Winter James, Esq., Norwich 
 Wiseman Mrs., Bacton 
 Wiseman Mr. John, Walcot 
 Wiseman IMr., Hickling 
 Wittleton Mr., jun.. East Ruston 
 Wodehonse Rev. C. N., Norwich 
 Wright AVarner, Esq., M.D., Nor- 
 wich 
 Wright Mr. John, London 
 Wright Mr., Swafield 
 
 Youngman Mr. John, East Ruston. 
 
 [ENTERED AT STATIONERS' HALL.] 
 
 NORWICH. 
 PRINTED BY STEVENSON AND MATCHETT, MARKET-PI.ACE. 
 
ADDITIONAL SUBSCRIBERS. 
 
 His Grace the Duke of Norfolk. 
 
 The Right Reverend Dr. Allen, Lord BisHop of Ely. 
 
 Sir Henry Pelly, K.C. B., Trinity House, London. 
 
 J. F Leathes, Esq., Herringfleet Hall. 
 
 Robert Lee, Esq., M. D., London. 
 
 F. H. Ramadge, Esq , M. D., London. 
 
 W. Beattie, Esq., M. D., Harapstead. 
 
 ERRATA AND ADDENDA. 
 
 Page 43, line 10, instead of northward, read eastward, 
 line 17, instead of southward, read westward. 
 
 Page 53. Observations in addition to line 20 : — Wind blowing from the 
 east produces these effects to n i^reater extent than from the 
 north-east, and wind blowing from the south-east causes the 
 sand on the sea-shore to be extremely loose and porous, while 
 the north wind renders the sand firm, solid, and compact. 
 
 Page 68, line 18, read two hundred and ten, instead of one hundred and 
 sixty. 
 
 Page 71, line 15, read from the north-west to the south-east. 
 
 Page 83, line 17, read hath instead of have. 
 
 Plate the second (opposite p. 71, chap, x.), conveys only a slight idea of 
 the Author's plan, but illustrates the proposed elevation of the beach. 
 
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