/ 
 
 ETHELWYN DODSON AND 
 FRANCES REIS 
 
 ■ 
 
 COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE » UNIVERSITY 
 OF CALIFORNIA « BERKELEY 
 
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 of attractive style and good workmanship is an easy job for the 
 experienced sewer, and not too difficult a job for the novice, if a 
 simplified plan of work and easy methods of tailoring are used. 
 
 THE SIMPLIFIED WORK PLAN described in this circular suggests 
 a method in which each unit or part of the coat is completed be- 
 fore the coat is put together. 
 
 THE KEYS TO SUCCESS IN TAILORING are accurate cutting, stitch- 
 ing, pressing. The hints given here will help you achieve good 
 results in these three parts of the work. 
 
 
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 Buy a workable pattern and goods you can handle; then follow 
 the suggestions and pictures in this booklet. The result: a coat any- 
 one would be proud to wear. 
 
 *7^e /4ut6o*4, 
 
 Ethel wyn Dodson and Frances Reis are Extension Specialists in Clothing. 
 
 [3] 
 
tyoun, S^afrftin^ ^i&t 
 
 Pattern 
 
 Material (see pattern for amount) 
 
 woolen coating 
 
 rayon lining 
 
 muslin interfacing (1 coat length) 
 
 Thread 
 
 heavy duty — 4 spools 
 mercerized No. 50 — 2 spools 
 mercerized white — 1 spool 
 
 Buttons 
 Shoulder pads 
 
 THE PATTERN 
 
 Choose One with Few Pieces 
 
 More often than not the simple pattern 
 in a coat is smarter and better styled than 
 a complicated pattern would be— and, of 
 course, it's much easier to sew. 
 
 In buying a pattern look for one with 
 units of not more than two pieces. Check 
 the pattern before buying for the follow- 
 ing pieces: 
 
 Back: 1 piece cut on fold, or 2 pieces 
 with center back seam. 
 
 Side Front: 1 piece with darts, or 2 
 pieces with straight seams. 
 
 Sleeves : 1 piece with darts, or 2 shaped 
 pieces, or 2 pieces with center seam. 
 
 Collar: tailored and joining at front 
 edge, or notched. 
 
 Pockets: patch, or slash. 
 
 Buy Pattern by Measurement w 
 
 For an Adult: take a firm measure- 
 ment around the chest, close to the arm- 
 hole. Add 2 inches to this measurement. 
 This figure is the size pattern to buy. 
 
 For a Child: take breast measure- 
 ment. Take length measurement from 
 socket bone at back of neck to bottom of 
 hem. Buy the pattern, by age, correspond- 
 ing to child's measurements. 
 
 THE MATERIAL 
 
 Choose Soft Wools 
 
 Medium-weight woolens, such as flan- 
 nel, tweed, and doeskin, are easy to tailor 
 because they take the shape of the gar- 
 ment readily. Woolen materials that have 
 a soft, lightly-napped surface, do not 
 show seam lines when pressed. For satis- 
 factory results, a beginner in tailoring 
 should avoid hard, firm worsteds, such as 
 men's suiting and gabardines. 
 
 For the amount, check the pattern en- 
 velop, noting width of fabric. 
 
 When buying cloth, have it torn or cut 
 on the thread. 
 
 [4 
 
" 
 
 SEWING EQUIPMENT 
 
 The well-equipped sewing center is a 
 joy to the home dressmaker. To complete 
 a successful tailoring job, such as a coat, 
 these items of small sewing and pressing 
 equipment are almost essential. 
 
 Check over your equipment with the 
 following lists. All of the items of press- 
 ing equipment except the iron and brush 
 can be made in your own home. Home 
 Demonstration Circular 372 gives com- 
 plete instructions. 
 
 Small Sewing Equipment 4^ 
 
 Shears and scissors 
 
 Dressmaker pins 
 
 Needles 
 
 Tape measure 
 
 Ruler, yardstick 
 
 Dressmaker tracing paper (navy and 
 
 white) 
 Tracing wheel 
 
 Machine gauge, or colored Scotch tape 
 Tailors' chalk 
 
 Pressing Equipment 
 
 Pressing cloth 
 Pressing ham 
 Sleeve pressing pad 
 Pressing roll 
 Wooden clapper 
 Clothes brush 
 Iron or steam iron 
 
 5] 
 
^ettcn^ ^eacUf fo Scut 
 
 Shrink Material 
 
 WOOL: 
 
 Shrink woolen material before making 
 a garment. Straighten material if neces- 
 sary by pulling a thread and cutting on 
 grain line. Material shrunk in the follow- 
 ing way will not require pressing before 
 cutting : 
 
 1. Dip a sheet in warm water and wring 
 dry. 
 
 2. Lay the folded material on the wet 
 sheet, with the center crease lengthwise. 
 
 3. Fold the edges of the sheet over the 
 cloth. Beginning at end, fold lightly and 
 continue folding the entire length. 
 
 4. Cover with paper or a turkish towel 
 for 2 hours. 
 
 5. Remove the material from the sheet 
 and lay on a flat surface. 
 
 6. Smooth the material so that it will 
 dry straight with the grain, ends and sides 
 forming right angles. 
 
 MUSLIN INTERFACING: 
 
 1. Soak muslin in warm water until 
 completely wet. 
 
 2. Drip dry, and press straight with the 
 grain. 
 
 Adjust Sewing Machine 
 
 A few minutes spent on the care of the 
 sewing machine will prepare it for effi- 
 cient use. Keep brush, oilcan, screw driv- 
 ers, and cleaning cloths handy. 
 
 Slip back the slide plate or plates and 
 blow out or brush off the lint that has 
 gathered around the bobbin case and feed. 
 Remove lint and ravelings under the head. 
 
 Place a drop of oil in each cup, and 
 carefully wipe off any surplus oil. 
 
 Test the machine stitch by running a 
 row of bias stitching in a double thickness 
 of the cloth you will sew. Adjust until 
 tension and length of stitch are right. 
 Complete directions for making adjust- 
 ments are given in Home Demonstration 
 Circular 491, "Care of Sewing Machines." 
 
 Arrange Cutting Table 
 
 A table raised to 36-inch height makes 
 an ideal cutting table. Bed blocks can be 
 used to raise a dining-room table, and 
 chairs can be used for tables with under- 
 braces. Cover the table with a tightly 
 stretched sheet or an oilcloth cover, wrong 
 side up. Material adheres slightly to this 
 surface and remains in place when being 
 cut. 
 
 a Adjust Pattern 
 
 1. Trim pattern if it has a margin. 
 
 2. Pin pattern together accurately, us- 
 ing seam allowance indicated on the pat- 
 tern. To avoid tearing the pattern, do not 
 pin side seams of coat and sleeve to arm- 
 hole. 
 
 3. Try on over suit or dress. 
 
 4. Alter to fit your measurements as 
 indicated in the pattern directions. 
 
 
WITH ACCURACY 
 
 Lay Pattern on Fabric 
 
 1. Fold right sides of fabric together so 
 that it is ready for marking and stitching. 
 
 2. Place fabric on the table, grain per- 
 fectly straight, ends and sides forming 
 right angles. 
 
 3. Place pattern as shown in pattern di- 
 rections, observing the up-and-down of 
 fabric weave. 
 
 4. Check pattern marking for straight 
 of the grain. 
 
 5. Pin pattern to fabric back from the 
 edge, so that pins do not interfere with 
 cutting. Use only enough pins to keep pat- 
 tern in place. 
 
 How to Cut Goods 
 
 Cut and mark the complete garment at 
 one time. 
 
 Cut accurately with long strokes. The 
 cutting line becomes the guide line for 
 stitching. If the coat has a center-back 
 seam, place pins 2 inches back from edge 
 
 of seam, from neck to hem, before lifting 
 from cutting table. 
 
 Marking the Pieces 
 
 1. Mark all notches by i/i-inch snips. 
 
 2. Mark seam edge of darts, center 
 front, center back, and sleeve tops with 
 ^-inch snips. 
 
 3. Mark with dressmaker's tracing 
 paper the following construction lines 
 and perforations— darts, center-back, and 
 pockets. 
 
 a. Place first sheet of tracing paper 
 under area to be marked, with carbon 
 side next to fabric. 
 
 b. Place second sheet under pattern 
 in same way. 
 
 c. Protect table with cardboard. 
 
 d. Make connecting lines through 
 perforations using ruler and tracing 
 wheel. 
 
 e. Use a cross line to indicate dart 
 ends. -«fr 
 
PRESSING 
 
 . ■ :p: »? 
 
 JFk, 
 
 ' 
 
 Lining and Interfacings ^^ 
 
 LINING 
 
 For ease, a pleat of 1 inch is allowed at 
 center back. 
 
 1. Cut lining according to pattern in- 
 struction sheet. 
 
 2. Mark construction lines as for coat. 
 
 INTERFACINGS 
 
 1. Cut muslin interfacings straight with 
 the grain about 3 inches deep, as illus- 
 trated in front and back sections. 
 
 2. Mark interfacings; center front, cen- 
 ter back, location of buttons and button- 
 holes, and the points where ends of collar 
 join facing. 
 
 3. Cut bias muslin interfacing 2 inches 
 wide and long enough to fit coat and 
 sleeve hems. 
 
 4. Cut muslin interfacings for under 
 collar on true bias. 
 
 5. Mark under collar interfacings along 
 grain lines, as illustrated. 
 
 AS YOU SEW 
 
 Method for Pressing Wool 
 
 1. Use a pressing cloth. Protect the right 
 side of wool from direct contact with iron 
 or steam iron. 
 
 (Use pressing cloth) m 
 
 2. Use plenty of steam and press lightly 
 with the grain line. Never press wool dry. 
 Never iron back and forth. Never bear 
 down with iron as you steam. 
 
 3. Beat with wooden clapper while gar- 
 ment contains steam to remove press 
 marks and seam lines. 
 
 (Remove press marks) m 
 
 4. Brush fabric while steaming to re- 
 move press marks. 
 
 5. Shape garments while pressing. 
 Press garments over pressing ham for 
 curved surfaces, such as shoulder, top of 
 sleeves, and bust. Avoid pressing flat and 
 shrinking out fullness created by darts 
 and other construction. 
 
 Underpress Each Piece 
 
 Press during stages of construction 
 from the underside following suggestions 
 above. 
 
 (Use pressing roll for seams) m 
 
 Press each piece of the garment be- 
 fore one row of stitching is crossed with 
 another. After each unit is pressed, handle 
 carefully to prevent wrinkling and un- 
 necessary pressing. 
 
 (Turn to page 22 for hints on Finish Pressing) 
 
 [8 
 
THE COAT IN UNITS 
 
 PLAN OF WORK 
 
 Make the Coat in Units 
 
 1- Front of coat: 
 
 Darts 
 
 Stay-stitching 
 
 Bastestitching 
 
 Buttonholes and pockets 
 2-Back of coat: 
 
 Center-back seam 
 
 Darts 
 
 Stay-stitching 
 3-Under collar: 
 
 Interfacing 
 
 Back seam 
 4-Top collar and front facing: 
 
 Shoulder seam 
 
 Neckline seam 
 5-Sleeves: 
 
 Darts 
 
 Gathers 
 
 Hem interfacing 
 
 Underarm seam 
 6-Lining: 
 
 Center-back pleat 
 
 Darts 
 
 Shoulder and underarm seams 
 
 Put the Coat Together 
 
 Shoulder and underarm seams 
 Collar to coat 
 Hem interfacing 
 Facing to coat 
 Sleeves to coat 
 
 Finish the Coat 
 
 Pockets and buttonholes 
 Hems and facings 
 Edge stitching 
 Shoulder pads and lining 
 
 Handle fabric as little as possible. Be 
 sure to keep the grain line in position at 
 all times. Arrange pieces of the coat and 
 interlining in the order in which you will 
 stitch them. 
 
 1-FRONT 
 
 DARTS 
 
 1. Stitch shoulder darts in coat and 
 interfacing. 
 
 2. Trim darts in coat and interfacing to 
 seam allowance width. 
 
 3. Press darts open as far as trimmed, 
 and continue by pressing a box pleat to 
 the point. 
 
 4. Press entire section of coat and inter- 
 facing. 
 
 STAY-STITCHING 
 
 1. Place smooth side of interfacing on 
 inside of coat. 
 
 2. Stay-stitch coat and interfacing to- 
 gether. 
 
 (Stay-stitching is a row of stitching to 
 keep the grain line in place around neck 
 and armholes, and across shoulders. In 
 tailoring, stay-stitch on seam allowance 
 line given on pattern. Use a seam gauge 
 to be exact. This extra row of machine 
 stitching in the seams substitutes for the 
 tape usually found in tailored garments. 
 See illustration for correct direction of 
 stitching so that grain line is kept in place 
 as you stitch. A general rule to follow is : 
 Stitch from the highest to the lowest point 
 on sections cut across the grain.) 
 
 3. Stitch coat and interfacing together, 
 down the front, the width of seam allow- 
 ance. 
 
 [10 
 
BASTESTITCHING 
 
 1. Bastestitch center front line of coat 
 and location marks for buttonholes as il- 
 lustrated. 
 
 a. Change from regular stitch to 
 bastestitch of 6 to 8 stitches to the inch. 
 
 b. Use contrasting thread on bobbin. 
 
 c. Stitch from interfacing side. 
 
 2. Reinforce under pocket with fine 
 gauze bandaging or muslin 2 inches wide, 
 extending n /2 i ncn beyond each end of 
 pocket. 
 
 3. Bastestitch pocket line as illustrated. 
 
 STAY-STITCHING 
 
 (Sew in direction 
 of arrows) 
 
 BASTESTITCHING 
 
 (To be removed 
 later) 
 
 [11] 
 
NOTCHED COLLAR 4fe 
 
 Bastestitch V to stayline at the point in- 
 dicated in the pattern, where the under- 
 collar joins coat. 
 
 (Sew tucked strips to a 
 right side of garment) t 
 
 TAILORED BUTTONHOLES 
 
 1. Count total number of buttonholes 
 you will have in coat, and measure their 
 total length. 
 
 2. Cut a strip lengthwise of goods, 
 twice as long as total length of button- 
 holes, and IV2 inches wide. 
 
 3. Fold the long strip V2 inch and stitch 
 %-inch tuck from fold. Repeat on other 
 edge, keeping edge of first tuck free. Re- 
 sult: Two %-inch tucks % inch apart. 
 
 4. Cut tucked strip into sections twice 
 the marked length of the buttonhole. 
 
 5. Pin fold of tuck on location lines of 
 buttonhole, right sides together. 
 
 6. Stitch marked length of buttonhole 
 on original tuck stitching, and secure each 
 end by stitching back a few stitches. Re- 
 peat on other tuck. 
 
 7. On wrong side, cut between parallel 
 lines of stitching to % inch from each 
 end. Clip diagonally to each corner as il- 
 lustrated. 
 
 8. Pull ends of strip to wrong side, 
 forming square corners at ends of but- 
 tonhole. 
 
 9. Stitch across triangle underneath at 
 end of buttonhole. Finish under side of 
 buttonholes later. 
 
 Same Tftet&od Tfaed^on, 
 
 [12 
 
(Cut from wrong side 
 and clip corners) 
 
 (Draw strips through and 
 stitch across ends) 
 
 'WaSllil 
 
 9M-:- ■■'■:■■ 
 
 SLASH POCKET 
 
 Make slash pocket opening like tailored 
 buttonholes, with variation as to width of 
 tucks. 
 
 1. Cut 2 lengthwise strips 3 inches wide 
 and 1% inches longer than the pocket 
 length. 
 
 2. Fold strip 1 inch and stitch tuck % 
 inch from fold. 
 
 3. Repeat fold and tuck on opposite 
 side, keeping first edge free. Result: Two 
 ^-inch tucks ^2 inch apart. 
 
 4. Place fold of tuck on location line 
 with tuck strip extending ^4 inch beyond 
 end of location line. 
 
 5. Stitch length of pocket on original 
 tuck stitching, securing threads at each 
 end. Repeat stitching on second tuck. 
 
 6. On the wrong side, cut between pa- 
 rallel lines to % inch from each end. Clip 
 diagonally to each corner as illustrated. 
 
 7. Pull ends of strip to wrong side 
 forming square corners. 
 
 8. Stitch across the triangle and finish- 
 ing tuck strip at ends of pockets. Finish 
 pockets later. 
 
 13] 
 
2-BACK 
 
 CENTER-BACK SEAM 
 
 1. Stitch center-back seam in coat and 
 interfacing. 
 
 2. Press open or press and stitch a welt 
 seam in coat. 
 
 DARTS 
 
 1. Stitch shoulder darts in coat and in- 
 terfacing. 
 
 2. Trim darts in coat and interfacing 
 to width of seam allowance. 
 
 3. Press darts open as on fronts of coat. 
 
 4. Press entire back section and inter- 
 facing. 
 
 STAY-STITCHING 
 
 1. Place interfacing on coat with 
 smooth side of interfacing toward inside 
 of coat. 
 
 2. Stay-stitch coat and interfacing to- 
 gether as on fronts. 
 
 3. Trim corners at seam ends. 
 
 / 
 
 [14 
 
3-UNDERCOLLAR 
 
 :-Ai'.SSv '■■^--i*^k'vZ\>^: .-:</»%&>* 
 
 INTERFACING J 
 
 1. Place muslin interfacings on wrong 
 sides of undercollar sections. 
 
 2. Stitch interfacings to under collars 
 on marked lines as illustrated. 
 
 BACK SEAM 
 
 ♦ 
 
 1. Stitch seam. 
 
 2. Open and stitch close on each side of 
 center-back seam. 
 
 3. Trim corners of seam ends as illus- 
 trated. 
 
 4-TOP COLLAR AND FACING 
 
 NOTCHED COLLAR J 
 
 1. Bastestitch center back line of top 
 collar and center front line of facing. 
 
 2. Bastestitch V to point where collar 
 joins facing. 
 
 3. Snip to point of V. 
 
 SHOULDER SEAMS 
 
 1. Join back facing and front facing at 
 shoulder seams. 
 
 2. Press seams open. 
 
 3. Trim corners at seam ends. 
 
 \ 
 
 \ 
 
 * 
 
 I 
 
 (Join facings and top collar) ^ 
 
 NECKLINE SEAM 
 
 1. Join top collar to coat facing. 
 
 2. Snip seam edges at neckline about 
 i/4 inch, as illustrated. 
 
 3. Press neck seam open. 
 
J" 
 
 .- 
 
 
 rf.."V:..'" 
 
 5-SLEEVES 
 
 DARTS 
 
 Stitch and press elbow darts. 
 
 GATHERS 
 
 Lengthen stitch and gather sleeve cap 
 with 2 rows of continuous stitching: 
 
 1. Begin stitching on seam line. 
 
 2. Return with second row of stitching 
 about Yg inch above first row as illus- 
 trated. 
 
 HEM INTERFACING 
 
 1. Place 2-inch bias interfacing next to 
 wrong side of lower edge of sleeve so that 
 the interfacing extends % inch below 
 edge of sleeve. 
 
 2. Stitch in place. 
 
 UNDERARM SEAM 
 
 1. Pin and stitch underarm seam of 
 sleeve. 
 
 2. Press open and clip ends of seam 
 allowance. 
 
 6-LINING 
 
 CENTER-BACK PLEAT 
 
 1. Baste the pleat at center back. 
 
 2. Catch-stitch 2 or 3 inches from the 
 neckline and 1 inch at the waistline and 
 hemline. 
 
 DARTS 
 
 1. Baste darts. Do not stitch by ma- 
 chine. 
 
 2. Catch-stitch 2 or 3 inches deep. 
 
 SHOULDER AND UNDERARM SEAMS 
 
 1. Stitch and press open shoulder and 
 underarm seams. 
 
 2. Stitch and press open sleeve seams. 
 
 [16] 
 
PUTTING THE COAT TOGETHER 
 
 SHOULDER SEAMS 
 
 1. Match seam ends and notches accu- 
 rately and pin. 
 
 2. Stitch on stay-stitching line in the 
 correct direction from neck to armhole. 
 
 3. Press open and clip ends of seams. 
 
 UNDERARM SEAMS 
 
 1. Stitch underarm seams from hem to 
 armhole. 
 
 2. Press seams open. 
 
 3. Trim corners at the beginning and 
 ending of seams. 
 
 COLLAR TO COAT 
 
 l.Join the undercollar to neckline of 
 assembled coat. 
 
 2. Snip seam edges and press seam 
 open. 
 
 HEM INTERFACING 
 
 1. Turn up hem allowance, using gauge. 
 
 2. Pin as illustrated on page 9. Steam- 
 press crease line at hem edge. 
 
 3. Take out pins and use clapper to get 
 hard crease. 
 
 4. Shrink with steam until the hem lies 
 flat. 
 
 5. Press and shape bias muslin inter- 
 facing for hem, to fit curve of coat. 
 
 6. Pin the strip of interfacing inside the 
 pressed hem. 
 
 7. Stitch interfacing to the raw edge of 
 coat. 
 
 17] 
 
FACING TO COAT ^ 
 
 1. Place front facing with attached col- 
 lar to right side of assembled coat; match 
 notches, lower edges, center backs, and 
 collar joinings. 
 
 2. For collar roll, draw back top collar 
 from edge of under collar Vs mcn an d P m - 
 
 3. Stitch on facing side, with edge of 
 coat following seam gauge. 
 
 4. Steam-press the seam open, as illus- 
 trated. 
 
 5. Reduce thickness of coat edge by 
 grading seam allowance: 
 
 a. Cut seam allowance of interfacing 
 close to seam. 
 
 (Grade seam allowances) m 
 
 b. Cut Yz oi the seam allowance away 
 from coat seam. 
 
 6. Press facing: 
 
 a. Fold and pin facing back on seam 
 line along coat fronts. 
 
 b. Fold and pin seam edge of collar 
 section slightly toward underside of col- 
 lar. 
 
 c. Steam and use clapper for creas- 
 ing edge. 
 
 7. Extend crease of hemline across fac- 
 ing. 
 
 [18 
 
SLEEVES TO COAT 
 
 1. Gather sleeve to fit armhole. 
 
 2. Using pressing ham, shrink extra 
 fullness from seam allowance. 
 
 3. Pin sleeve into armhole: 
 
 a. Match top of sleeve to shoulder 
 seam. 
 
 b. Match notches at back and front. 
 
 c. Match underarm seams of sleeve 
 and coat. 
 
 4. Stitch from sleeve side: 
 
 a. Start stitching at underarm seam. 
 
 b. End stitching by overlapping 1 
 inch. 
 
 5. Clip seam edges around armhole 
 with 14 inch snips. 
 
 6. Press armhole seam open. 
 
 (Shrink out fullness) 
 
 [19 
 
NEAT FINISHING 
 
 SLASH POCKETS 
 
 1. Face the back section of the pocket 
 lining with strip of coating 2 inches wide. 
 
 2. Stitch this section of lining to the 
 pocket facing toward back of coat. 
 
 3. Stitch front section of pocket lining 
 to the pocket facing toward front of coat. 
 
 4. Fold the two sections of pocket lin- 
 ing together and stitch around raw edges 
 to form a pocket. 
 
 BUTTONHOLES 
 
 1. Stab pins through facing at each end 
 of buttonhole opening. The two pins 
 should follow a grain line. 
 
 2. Slit the facing between the pins. 
 
 3. Turn raw edges under and hem. 
 
 COAT AND SLEEVE HEMS 
 
 1. Turn extending muslin interfacing 
 back over edge of wool. 
 
 2. Hem with a loose running stitch. 
 Take invisible stitches through the coat 
 and longer stitches through the hem. Start 
 with several stitches through interfacing, 
 and when finished, secure threads on hem 
 rather than coat. 
 
 FACING ^ 
 
 Tack the inner edge of the front facing 
 to the body of the coat with a row of 
 loose buttonhole stitches. 
 
X 
 
 EDGE STITCHING 
 
 Outside stitching gives a professional 
 touch. This stitching must be well done or 
 it should be omitted. 
 
 Set gauge % to % inch. Stitch front 
 of coat and collar edge in a continuous 
 row. For notched collar, see pattern in- 
 instructions, or look at a ready-made coat. 
 
 SHOULDER PADS 
 
 Try on coat and pin shoulder pads in 
 place. Catch-stitch pads to edges of seam 
 allowance and interfacings until secure. 
 
 LINING 
 
 SLEEVE LINING 
 
 1. Baste lining to sleeve seam with 
 wrong sides together. 
 
 2. Turn lining over sleeve with lining 
 right side out. 
 
 3. Tack lining to armhole of coat. 
 
 4. Hem with allowance for lining ease: 
 a. Fold under lower edge even with 
 
 coat sleeve. 
 
 21 
 
b. Place fold to top of sleeve hem and 
 blind-stitch. 
 
 BODY LINING 
 
 1. Baste lining to coat on underarm 
 seam from armhole to hem. Run basting 
 stitches through % the seam allowances 
 of coat and lining. Repeat on other side. 
 
 2. Turn under % inch around coat lin- 
 ing fronts and neckline and baste. Pin and 
 blind-stitch to coat facing. 
 
 HEM FINISH 
 
 1. Hem lining separately if suggested 
 
 in pattern instructions. 
 
 2. Hem lining to coat with allowance 
 for ease : 
 
 a. Fold under lower edge even with 
 coat hem. 
 
 b. Place fold to top of coat hem and 
 blind-stitch. 
 
 ARMHOLE FINISH 
 
 1. Trim % of the seam allowance 
 around armhole. 
 
 2. Turn under % inch around armhole 
 of body lining and blind-stitch in place. 
 
 FINISH PRESSING 
 
 LOWER SLEEVE 
 
 Place hem on sleeve board or sleeve 
 pad. Steam-press, and use clapper for 
 creased edge. 
 
 TOP OF SLEEVE 
 
 Place over pressing ham. Steam, shape, 
 and brush. 
 
 SHOULDER SEAMS 
 
 Place on top of pressing ham. Steam, 
 shape, and brush. 
 
 NECKLINE 
 
 Place over top of pressing ham to keep 
 
 rounded line through back of shoulders. 
 Steam, shape, and brush. 
 
 BUSTLINE 
 
 Place over pressing ham, steam, and 
 brush. 
 
 BODY OF COAT 
 
 Place on regulation ironing board. 
 Press side seams from lower edge toward 
 sleeve in the direction they were stitched. 
 Steam, use clapper at hem edge, and brush 
 along seams and body of coat. Dry thor- 
 oughly on hanger. 
 
 [22 
 
ty<wi Ttotet • > > 
 
 Cooperative Extension work in Agriculture and Home Economics, College of Agriculture, 
 
 University of California, and United States Department of Agriculture cooperating. 
 
 Distributed in furtherance of the Acts of Congress of May 8, and June 30, 1914. 
 
 C. W. Rubel, Acting Director, California Agricultural Extension Service. 
 
 30m-8,'48(B229) 
 
 [23 
 
TIME WELL SPENT 
 
 a visit with . . . the home demonstration agent. A 
 trained home economist willing and able to assist 
 rural homemakers in . . . meal planning . . . food buy- 
 ing • • . clothing the family . . . planning the home for 
 
 convenience and comfort . . . and 
 other homemaking problems . . • 
 time well spent when you con- 
 sult this free service. 
 
 You will find a Home Demonstration Agent in: 
 
 Alameda County: 
 
 Post Office Bldg., Hayward 
 
 Butte County: 
 
 Federal Bldg., Oroville 
 
 Colusa County: 
 
 Federal Bldg., Colusa 
 
 Contra Costa County: 
 Cowell 
 
 Fresno County: 
 
 20 Federal Bldg., Fresno 
 
 Humboldt County: 
 
 Post Office Bldg., Eureka 
 
 Imperial County: 
 
 Court House, El Centro 
 
 Kern County: 
 
 2610 M St., Bakersfield 
 
 Kings County: 
 
 131 E. 8th St., Hanford 
 
 Los Angeles County: 
 808 N. Spring St., Los 
 Angeles 12 
 
 Madera County: 
 
 Post Office Bldg., Madera 
 
 Merced County: 
 
 County Adobe Bldg., 
 
 Court House Square, Merced 
 
 Modoc County: 
 
 Court House, Alturas 
 
 Monterey County: 
 
 Court House, Salinas 
 
 Napa County: 
 
 Post Office Bldg., Napa 
 
 Nevada County: 
 
 Memorial Bldg., Grass Valley 
 
 Orange County: 
 
 1104 W. 8th St., Santa Ana 
 
 Placer County: 
 
 135 Court St., Auburn 
 
 Riverside County: 
 
 Post Office Bldg., Riverside 
 
 Sacramento County: 
 315 Federal Bldg., 
 Sacramento 
 
 San Benito County: 
 
 Court House, Hollister 
 
 San Bernardino County: 
 
 Federal Bldg., San Bernardino 
 
 San Diego County: 
 
 404 U. S. Customs Bldg., 
 San Diego 1 
 
 San Joaquin County: 
 145 S. American St., 
 Stockton 7 
 
 San Luis Obispo County: 
 Post Office Bldg., 
 San Luis Obispo 
 
 Santa Barbara County: 
 
 Federal Bldg., Santa Barbara 
 
 Santa Clara County: 
 201 Post Office Bldg., 
 San Jose 18 
 
 Santa Cruz County: 
 Court House Annex, 
 Santa Cruz 
 
 Shasta County: 
 
 County Office Bldg., Redding 
 
 Siskiyou County: 
 
 Court House, Yreka 
 
 Solano County: 
 
 County Library Bldg., 
 Fairfield 
 
 Sonoma County: 
 
 Court House, Santa Rosa 
 
 Stanislaus County: 
 
 Federal Bldg., Modesto 
 
 Sutter County: 
 
 Post Office Bldg., Yuba City 
 
 Tehama County: 
 
 Federal Bldg., Red Bluff 
 
 Tulare County: 
 
 Post Office Bldg., Visalia 
 
 Ventura County: 
 
 52 N. California St., Ventura 
 
 Yolo County: 
 
 Court House, Woodland 
 
 Yuba County: 
 
 Federal Bldg., Marysville 
 
 CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA BERKELEY