/ ETHELWYN DODSON AND FRANCES REIS ■ COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE » UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA « BERKELEY V s / 7* '« yttalktiya @mt of attractive style and good workmanship is an easy job for the experienced sewer, and not too difficult a job for the novice, if a simplified plan of work and easy methods of tailoring are used. THE SIMPLIFIED WORK PLAN described in this circular suggests a method in which each unit or part of the coat is completed be- fore the coat is put together. THE KEYS TO SUCCESS IN TAILORING are accurate cutting, stitch- ing, pressing. The hints given here will help you achieve good results in these three parts of the work. ■ I k _ it; .' -. :: % f **. v. _*^ ■ ~ - -.^^m^^^^ . ( A~ — ~ i 't-r ' - - , . *v^. ^ • ' fit * Buy a workable pattern and goods you can handle; then follow the suggestions and pictures in this booklet. The result: a coat any- one would be proud to wear. *7^e /4ut6o*4, Ethel wyn Dodson and Frances Reis are Extension Specialists in Clothing. [3] tyoun, S^afrftin^ ^i&t Pattern Material (see pattern for amount) woolen coating rayon lining muslin interfacing (1 coat length) Thread heavy duty — 4 spools mercerized No. 50 — 2 spools mercerized white — 1 spool Buttons Shoulder pads THE PATTERN Choose One with Few Pieces More often than not the simple pattern in a coat is smarter and better styled than a complicated pattern would be— and, of course, it's much easier to sew. In buying a pattern look for one with units of not more than two pieces. Check the pattern before buying for the follow- ing pieces: Back: 1 piece cut on fold, or 2 pieces with center back seam. Side Front: 1 piece with darts, or 2 pieces with straight seams. Sleeves : 1 piece with darts, or 2 shaped pieces, or 2 pieces with center seam. Collar: tailored and joining at front edge, or notched. Pockets: patch, or slash. Buy Pattern by Measurement w For an Adult: take a firm measure- ment around the chest, close to the arm- hole. Add 2 inches to this measurement. This figure is the size pattern to buy. For a Child: take breast measure- ment. Take length measurement from socket bone at back of neck to bottom of hem. Buy the pattern, by age, correspond- ing to child's measurements. THE MATERIAL Choose Soft Wools Medium-weight woolens, such as flan- nel, tweed, and doeskin, are easy to tailor because they take the shape of the gar- ment readily. Woolen materials that have a soft, lightly-napped surface, do not show seam lines when pressed. For satis- factory results, a beginner in tailoring should avoid hard, firm worsteds, such as men's suiting and gabardines. For the amount, check the pattern en- velop, noting width of fabric. When buying cloth, have it torn or cut on the thread. [4 " SEWING EQUIPMENT The well-equipped sewing center is a joy to the home dressmaker. To complete a successful tailoring job, such as a coat, these items of small sewing and pressing equipment are almost essential. Check over your equipment with the following lists. All of the items of press- ing equipment except the iron and brush can be made in your own home. Home Demonstration Circular 372 gives com- plete instructions. Small Sewing Equipment 4^ Shears and scissors Dressmaker pins Needles Tape measure Ruler, yardstick Dressmaker tracing paper (navy and white) Tracing wheel Machine gauge, or colored Scotch tape Tailors' chalk Pressing Equipment Pressing cloth Pressing ham Sleeve pressing pad Pressing roll Wooden clapper Clothes brush Iron or steam iron 5] ^ettcn^ ^eacUf fo Scut Shrink Material WOOL: Shrink woolen material before making a garment. Straighten material if neces- sary by pulling a thread and cutting on grain line. Material shrunk in the follow- ing way will not require pressing before cutting : 1. Dip a sheet in warm water and wring dry. 2. Lay the folded material on the wet sheet, with the center crease lengthwise. 3. Fold the edges of the sheet over the cloth. Beginning at end, fold lightly and continue folding the entire length. 4. Cover with paper or a turkish towel for 2 hours. 5. Remove the material from the sheet and lay on a flat surface. 6. Smooth the material so that it will dry straight with the grain, ends and sides forming right angles. MUSLIN INTERFACING: 1. Soak muslin in warm water until completely wet. 2. Drip dry, and press straight with the grain. Adjust Sewing Machine A few minutes spent on the care of the sewing machine will prepare it for effi- cient use. Keep brush, oilcan, screw driv- ers, and cleaning cloths handy. Slip back the slide plate or plates and blow out or brush off the lint that has gathered around the bobbin case and feed. Remove lint and ravelings under the head. Place a drop of oil in each cup, and carefully wipe off any surplus oil. Test the machine stitch by running a row of bias stitching in a double thickness of the cloth you will sew. Adjust until tension and length of stitch are right. Complete directions for making adjust- ments are given in Home Demonstration Circular 491, "Care of Sewing Machines." Arrange Cutting Table A table raised to 36-inch height makes an ideal cutting table. Bed blocks can be used to raise a dining-room table, and chairs can be used for tables with under- braces. Cover the table with a tightly stretched sheet or an oilcloth cover, wrong side up. Material adheres slightly to this surface and remains in place when being cut. a Adjust Pattern 1. Trim pattern if it has a margin. 2. Pin pattern together accurately, us- ing seam allowance indicated on the pat- tern. To avoid tearing the pattern, do not pin side seams of coat and sleeve to arm- hole. 3. Try on over suit or dress. 4. Alter to fit your measurements as indicated in the pattern directions. WITH ACCURACY Lay Pattern on Fabric 1. Fold right sides of fabric together so that it is ready for marking and stitching. 2. Place fabric on the table, grain per- fectly straight, ends and sides forming right angles. 3. Place pattern as shown in pattern di- rections, observing the up-and-down of fabric weave. 4. Check pattern marking for straight of the grain. 5. Pin pattern to fabric back from the edge, so that pins do not interfere with cutting. Use only enough pins to keep pat- tern in place. How to Cut Goods Cut and mark the complete garment at one time. Cut accurately with long strokes. The cutting line becomes the guide line for stitching. If the coat has a center-back seam, place pins 2 inches back from edge of seam, from neck to hem, before lifting from cutting table. Marking the Pieces 1. Mark all notches by i/i-inch snips. 2. Mark seam edge of darts, center front, center back, and sleeve tops with ^-inch snips. 3. Mark with dressmaker's tracing paper the following construction lines and perforations— darts, center-back, and pockets. a. Place first sheet of tracing paper under area to be marked, with carbon side next to fabric. b. Place second sheet under pattern in same way. c. Protect table with cardboard. d. Make connecting lines through perforations using ruler and tracing wheel. e. Use a cross line to indicate dart ends. -«fr PRESSING . ■ :p: »? JFk, ' Lining and Interfacings ^^ LINING For ease, a pleat of 1 inch is allowed at center back. 1. Cut lining according to pattern in- struction sheet. 2. Mark construction lines as for coat. INTERFACINGS 1. Cut muslin interfacings straight with the grain about 3 inches deep, as illus- trated in front and back sections. 2. Mark interfacings; center front, cen- ter back, location of buttons and button- holes, and the points where ends of collar join facing. 3. Cut bias muslin interfacing 2 inches wide and long enough to fit coat and sleeve hems. 4. Cut muslin interfacings for under collar on true bias. 5. Mark under collar interfacings along grain lines, as illustrated. AS YOU SEW Method for Pressing Wool 1. Use a pressing cloth. Protect the right side of wool from direct contact with iron or steam iron. (Use pressing cloth) m 2. Use plenty of steam and press lightly with the grain line. Never press wool dry. Never iron back and forth. Never bear down with iron as you steam. 3. Beat with wooden clapper while gar- ment contains steam to remove press marks and seam lines. (Remove press marks) m 4. Brush fabric while steaming to re- move press marks. 5. Shape garments while pressing. Press garments over pressing ham for curved surfaces, such as shoulder, top of sleeves, and bust. Avoid pressing flat and shrinking out fullness created by darts and other construction. Underpress Each Piece Press during stages of construction from the underside following suggestions above. (Use pressing roll for seams) m Press each piece of the garment be- fore one row of stitching is crossed with another. After each unit is pressed, handle carefully to prevent wrinkling and un- necessary pressing. (Turn to page 22 for hints on Finish Pressing) [8 THE COAT IN UNITS PLAN OF WORK Make the Coat in Units 1- Front of coat: Darts Stay-stitching Bastestitching Buttonholes and pockets 2-Back of coat: Center-back seam Darts Stay-stitching 3-Under collar: Interfacing Back seam 4-Top collar and front facing: Shoulder seam Neckline seam 5-Sleeves: Darts Gathers Hem interfacing Underarm seam 6-Lining: Center-back pleat Darts Shoulder and underarm seams Put the Coat Together Shoulder and underarm seams Collar to coat Hem interfacing Facing to coat Sleeves to coat Finish the Coat Pockets and buttonholes Hems and facings Edge stitching Shoulder pads and lining Handle fabric as little as possible. Be sure to keep the grain line in position at all times. Arrange pieces of the coat and interlining in the order in which you will stitch them. 1-FRONT DARTS 1. Stitch shoulder darts in coat and interfacing. 2. Trim darts in coat and interfacing to seam allowance width. 3. Press darts open as far as trimmed, and continue by pressing a box pleat to the point. 4. Press entire section of coat and inter- facing. STAY-STITCHING 1. Place smooth side of interfacing on inside of coat. 2. Stay-stitch coat and interfacing to- gether. (Stay-stitching is a row of stitching to keep the grain line in place around neck and armholes, and across shoulders. In tailoring, stay-stitch on seam allowance line given on pattern. Use a seam gauge to be exact. This extra row of machine stitching in the seams substitutes for the tape usually found in tailored garments. See illustration for correct direction of stitching so that grain line is kept in place as you stitch. A general rule to follow is : Stitch from the highest to the lowest point on sections cut across the grain.) 3. Stitch coat and interfacing together, down the front, the width of seam allow- ance. [10 BASTESTITCHING 1. Bastestitch center front line of coat and location marks for buttonholes as il- lustrated. a. Change from regular stitch to bastestitch of 6 to 8 stitches to the inch. b. Use contrasting thread on bobbin. c. Stitch from interfacing side. 2. Reinforce under pocket with fine gauze bandaging or muslin 2 inches wide, extending n /2 i ncn beyond each end of pocket. 3. Bastestitch pocket line as illustrated. STAY-STITCHING (Sew in direction of arrows) BASTESTITCHING (To be removed later) [11] NOTCHED COLLAR 4fe Bastestitch V to stayline at the point in- dicated in the pattern, where the under- collar joins coat. (Sew tucked strips to a right side of garment) t TAILORED BUTTONHOLES 1. Count total number of buttonholes you will have in coat, and measure their total length. 2. Cut a strip lengthwise of goods, twice as long as total length of button- holes, and IV2 inches wide. 3. Fold the long strip V2 inch and stitch %-inch tuck from fold. Repeat on other edge, keeping edge of first tuck free. Re- sult: Two %-inch tucks % inch apart. 4. Cut tucked strip into sections twice the marked length of the buttonhole. 5. Pin fold of tuck on location lines of buttonhole, right sides together. 6. Stitch marked length of buttonhole on original tuck stitching, and secure each end by stitching back a few stitches. Re- peat on other tuck. 7. On wrong side, cut between parallel lines of stitching to % inch from each end. Clip diagonally to each corner as il- lustrated. 8. Pull ends of strip to wrong side, forming square corners at ends of but- tonhole. 9. Stitch across triangle underneath at end of buttonhole. Finish under side of buttonholes later. Same Tftet&od Tfaed^on, [12 (Cut from wrong side and clip corners) (Draw strips through and stitch across ends) 'WaSllil 9M-:- ■■'■:■■ SLASH POCKET Make slash pocket opening like tailored buttonholes, with variation as to width of tucks. 1. Cut 2 lengthwise strips 3 inches wide and 1% inches longer than the pocket length. 2. Fold strip 1 inch and stitch tuck % inch from fold. 3. Repeat fold and tuck on opposite side, keeping first edge free. Result: Two ^-inch tucks ^2 inch apart. 4. Place fold of tuck on location line with tuck strip extending ^4 inch beyond end of location line. 5. Stitch length of pocket on original tuck stitching, securing threads at each end. Repeat stitching on second tuck. 6. On the wrong side, cut between pa- rallel lines to % inch from each end. Clip diagonally to each corner as illustrated. 7. Pull ends of strip to wrong side forming square corners. 8. Stitch across the triangle and finish- ing tuck strip at ends of pockets. Finish pockets later. 13] 2-BACK CENTER-BACK SEAM 1. Stitch center-back seam in coat and interfacing. 2. Press open or press and stitch a welt seam in coat. DARTS 1. Stitch shoulder darts in coat and in- terfacing. 2. Trim darts in coat and interfacing to width of seam allowance. 3. Press darts open as on fronts of coat. 4. Press entire back section and inter- facing. STAY-STITCHING 1. Place interfacing on coat with smooth side of interfacing toward inside of coat. 2. Stay-stitch coat and interfacing to- gether as on fronts. 3. Trim corners at seam ends. / [14 3-UNDERCOLLAR :-Ai'.SSv '■■^--i*^k'vZ\>^: .-:</»%&>* INTERFACING J 1. Place muslin interfacings on wrong sides of undercollar sections. 2. Stitch interfacings to under collars on marked lines as illustrated. BACK SEAM ♦ 1. Stitch seam. 2. Open and stitch close on each side of center-back seam. 3. Trim corners of seam ends as illus- trated. 4-TOP COLLAR AND FACING NOTCHED COLLAR J 1. Bastestitch center back line of top collar and center front line of facing. 2. Bastestitch V to point where collar joins facing. 3. Snip to point of V. SHOULDER SEAMS 1. Join back facing and front facing at shoulder seams. 2. Press seams open. 3. Trim corners at seam ends. \ \ * I (Join facings and top collar) ^ NECKLINE SEAM 1. Join top collar to coat facing. 2. Snip seam edges at neckline about i/4 inch, as illustrated. 3. Press neck seam open. J" .- rf.."V:..'" 5-SLEEVES DARTS Stitch and press elbow darts. GATHERS Lengthen stitch and gather sleeve cap with 2 rows of continuous stitching: 1. Begin stitching on seam line. 2. Return with second row of stitching about Yg inch above first row as illus- trated. HEM INTERFACING 1. Place 2-inch bias interfacing next to wrong side of lower edge of sleeve so that the interfacing extends % inch below edge of sleeve. 2. Stitch in place. UNDERARM SEAM 1. Pin and stitch underarm seam of sleeve. 2. Press open and clip ends of seam allowance. 6-LINING CENTER-BACK PLEAT 1. Baste the pleat at center back. 2. Catch-stitch 2 or 3 inches from the neckline and 1 inch at the waistline and hemline. DARTS 1. Baste darts. Do not stitch by ma- chine. 2. Catch-stitch 2 or 3 inches deep. SHOULDER AND UNDERARM SEAMS 1. Stitch and press open shoulder and underarm seams. 2. Stitch and press open sleeve seams. [16] PUTTING THE COAT TOGETHER SHOULDER SEAMS 1. Match seam ends and notches accu- rately and pin. 2. Stitch on stay-stitching line in the correct direction from neck to armhole. 3. Press open and clip ends of seams. UNDERARM SEAMS 1. Stitch underarm seams from hem to armhole. 2. Press seams open. 3. Trim corners at the beginning and ending of seams. COLLAR TO COAT l.Join the undercollar to neckline of assembled coat. 2. Snip seam edges and press seam open. HEM INTERFACING 1. Turn up hem allowance, using gauge. 2. Pin as illustrated on page 9. Steam- press crease line at hem edge. 3. Take out pins and use clapper to get hard crease. 4. Shrink with steam until the hem lies flat. 5. Press and shape bias muslin inter- facing for hem, to fit curve of coat. 6. Pin the strip of interfacing inside the pressed hem. 7. Stitch interfacing to the raw edge of coat. 17] FACING TO COAT ^ 1. Place front facing with attached col- lar to right side of assembled coat; match notches, lower edges, center backs, and collar joinings. 2. For collar roll, draw back top collar from edge of under collar Vs mcn an d P m - 3. Stitch on facing side, with edge of coat following seam gauge. 4. Steam-press the seam open, as illus- trated. 5. Reduce thickness of coat edge by grading seam allowance: a. Cut seam allowance of interfacing close to seam. (Grade seam allowances) m b. Cut Yz oi the seam allowance away from coat seam. 6. Press facing: a. Fold and pin facing back on seam line along coat fronts. b. Fold and pin seam edge of collar section slightly toward underside of col- lar. c. Steam and use clapper for creas- ing edge. 7. Extend crease of hemline across fac- ing. [18 SLEEVES TO COAT 1. Gather sleeve to fit armhole. 2. Using pressing ham, shrink extra fullness from seam allowance. 3. Pin sleeve into armhole: a. Match top of sleeve to shoulder seam. b. Match notches at back and front. c. Match underarm seams of sleeve and coat. 4. Stitch from sleeve side: a. Start stitching at underarm seam. b. End stitching by overlapping 1 inch. 5. Clip seam edges around armhole with 14 inch snips. 6. Press armhole seam open. (Shrink out fullness) [19 NEAT FINISHING SLASH POCKETS 1. Face the back section of the pocket lining with strip of coating 2 inches wide. 2. Stitch this section of lining to the pocket facing toward back of coat. 3. Stitch front section of pocket lining to the pocket facing toward front of coat. 4. Fold the two sections of pocket lin- ing together and stitch around raw edges to form a pocket. BUTTONHOLES 1. Stab pins through facing at each end of buttonhole opening. The two pins should follow a grain line. 2. Slit the facing between the pins. 3. Turn raw edges under and hem. COAT AND SLEEVE HEMS 1. Turn extending muslin interfacing back over edge of wool. 2. Hem with a loose running stitch. Take invisible stitches through the coat and longer stitches through the hem. Start with several stitches through interfacing, and when finished, secure threads on hem rather than coat. FACING ^ Tack the inner edge of the front facing to the body of the coat with a row of loose buttonhole stitches. X EDGE STITCHING Outside stitching gives a professional touch. This stitching must be well done or it should be omitted. Set gauge % to % inch. Stitch front of coat and collar edge in a continuous row. For notched collar, see pattern in- instructions, or look at a ready-made coat. SHOULDER PADS Try on coat and pin shoulder pads in place. Catch-stitch pads to edges of seam allowance and interfacings until secure. LINING SLEEVE LINING 1. Baste lining to sleeve seam with wrong sides together. 2. Turn lining over sleeve with lining right side out. 3. Tack lining to armhole of coat. 4. Hem with allowance for lining ease: a. Fold under lower edge even with coat sleeve. 21 b. Place fold to top of sleeve hem and blind-stitch. BODY LINING 1. Baste lining to coat on underarm seam from armhole to hem. Run basting stitches through % the seam allowances of coat and lining. Repeat on other side. 2. Turn under % inch around coat lin- ing fronts and neckline and baste. Pin and blind-stitch to coat facing. HEM FINISH 1. Hem lining separately if suggested in pattern instructions. 2. Hem lining to coat with allowance for ease : a. Fold under lower edge even with coat hem. b. Place fold to top of coat hem and blind-stitch. ARMHOLE FINISH 1. Trim % of the seam allowance around armhole. 2. Turn under % inch around armhole of body lining and blind-stitch in place. FINISH PRESSING LOWER SLEEVE Place hem on sleeve board or sleeve pad. Steam-press, and use clapper for creased edge. TOP OF SLEEVE Place over pressing ham. Steam, shape, and brush. SHOULDER SEAMS Place on top of pressing ham. Steam, shape, and brush. NECKLINE Place over top of pressing ham to keep rounded line through back of shoulders. Steam, shape, and brush. BUSTLINE Place over pressing ham, steam, and brush. BODY OF COAT Place on regulation ironing board. Press side seams from lower edge toward sleeve in the direction they were stitched. Steam, use clapper at hem edge, and brush along seams and body of coat. Dry thor- oughly on hanger. [22 ty<wi Ttotet • > > Cooperative Extension work in Agriculture and Home Economics, College of Agriculture, University of California, and United States Department of Agriculture cooperating. Distributed in furtherance of the Acts of Congress of May 8, and June 30, 1914. C. W. Rubel, Acting Director, California Agricultural Extension Service. 30m-8,'48(B229) [23 TIME WELL SPENT a visit with . . . the home demonstration agent. A trained home economist willing and able to assist rural homemakers in . . . meal planning . . . food buy- ing • • . clothing the family . . . planning the home for convenience and comfort . . . and other homemaking problems . . • time well spent when you con- sult this free service. You will find a Home Demonstration Agent in: Alameda County: Post Office Bldg., Hayward Butte County: Federal Bldg., Oroville Colusa County: Federal Bldg., Colusa Contra Costa County: Cowell Fresno County: 20 Federal Bldg., Fresno Humboldt County: Post Office Bldg., Eureka Imperial County: Court House, El Centro Kern County: 2610 M St., Bakersfield Kings County: 131 E. 8th St., Hanford Los Angeles County: 808 N. Spring St., Los Angeles 12 Madera County: Post Office Bldg., Madera Merced County: County Adobe Bldg., Court House Square, Merced Modoc County: Court House, Alturas Monterey County: Court House, Salinas Napa County: Post Office Bldg., Napa Nevada County: Memorial Bldg., Grass Valley Orange County: 1104 W. 8th St., Santa Ana Placer County: 135 Court St., Auburn Riverside County: Post Office Bldg., Riverside Sacramento County: 315 Federal Bldg., Sacramento San Benito County: Court House, Hollister San Bernardino County: Federal Bldg., San Bernardino San Diego County: 404 U. S. Customs Bldg., San Diego 1 San Joaquin County: 145 S. American St., Stockton 7 San Luis Obispo County: Post Office Bldg., San Luis Obispo Santa Barbara County: Federal Bldg., Santa Barbara Santa Clara County: 201 Post Office Bldg., San Jose 18 Santa Cruz County: Court House Annex, Santa Cruz Shasta County: County Office Bldg., Redding Siskiyou County: Court House, Yreka Solano County: County Library Bldg., Fairfield Sonoma County: Court House, Santa Rosa Stanislaus County: Federal Bldg., Modesto Sutter County: Post Office Bldg., Yuba City Tehama County: Federal Bldg., Red Bluff Tulare County: Post Office Bldg., Visalia Ventura County: 52 N. California St., Ventura Yolo County: Court House, Woodland Yuba County: Federal Bldg., Marysville CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA BERKELEY