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Caution to Innkeepers and others. — The Editor of the Handbooks has learned from various quarters that a person or persons have of late been ex- torting money fi'om innkeepers, tradespeople, artists, and others, on the Con- tinent, mider pretext of procuring recommendations and favoui'able notices of them and their establishments in the Handbooks for Travellers. The Editor, therefore, thinks proper to warn all whom it may concern, that recom- mendations in the Handbooks are not to be obtained by purchase, and that the persons alluded to are not only unauthorised by him., but are totally unknown to him. All those, therefore, who put confidence in such promises, may rest assiu-ed that they will be defrauded of their money without attaining their object.— 1843. ABBBEVIATIOXS, &c., USED IX THE HANDBOOK. The points of the Compass ai'e marked simply by tlie letters X. S. E. W. {i-t.) right, (/.) left. ,The right bank of a river is that which lies on the right hand of a person whose back is tiu-ned towards the source, or the quarter fi-om which the current descends. m. = mile ; R. or Rte. = Route ; St. or Stat. = Railway Station. The references to routes and pages not included in this volume apply to the complete work, ' Handbook for Travellers on the Continent, in Xorth Gemiany, kc.,' 1852. INTRODUCTION. Money — Circular Kotes. The safest, most economical, and most convenient mode of carrying money abroad to meet the expenses of a journey, is in the shape of circular notes, which may be obtained from Messrs. Herries, Farqnhar, and Co. ; Coiitts and Co. ; Sir Claude Scott, Bt,, and Co., Cavendish Square ; Messrs. Twining, in the Strand, near Temple Bar ; and the other chief bankers in London: to these maybe added the Union Bank. These notes possess this great advantage over a common letter of credit, that the bearer may receive his money at many different places instead of one fixed spot alone. The traveller, having determined how much money he will require for his journey,"^ pays in that sum to the banker, and receives in exchange, with- out any charge, notes to the same amount, each of the value of 10/. or upwards, together "wdth a general letter of order, addressed by the house to its foreign agents, which, while it serves to identify the bearer, also gives him a claim to their good offices, in case he may need them. The letter is addressed to nearly 200 agents and correspondents in different parts of Europe, so that, wherever the traveller may be, he cannot be very far removed from his supplies. " The value of the notes is reduced into foreign money, at the current usance course of exchange on London, at the time and place of payment, sub- ject to no deduction for coih.nission, or to any other charge whatever, unless the payment be required in some particular coin which bears a premium. They are drawn to order, and the traveller will naturally, for his own security, not endorse them till he receives the money ; besides which, such cheques are so concerted with the agents as to render a successful forgery of his name very difficult." Owing to the number of English who now go abroad, these circular, letters can no longer be expected to serve asai3rivate letter of introduction ; but it is of no slight importance in many cases of difficulty to the stranger, in a strange place, to be able to produce a reference to some person of respectability ; and the parties to whom these letters are addressed are usually ready to afford friendly advice and assistance to those who need it. "I have found English Bank-notes very convenient in Belgium and all parts of Germany. The exchange is somewhat lower than for Circular Xotes, but the stamp-duty may be set against the difference." — i?. It is advisable to take a small supply of English gold to pay the ex- penses in the steamboat and on landing, as well as to guard against run- ning short of money in places where circular notes cannot be cashed. Enrjlish sovereigns bear a high premium all over Germany, and in shops and inns at all the large towns they ought to be taken at their full value. * It is difTicult, if not impossible, to fix with any approach to exactness the average rate of expenses of a traveller abroad, as it depends so much on his own habits, and varies in different countries; but, unless the expenditure be very lavish, 25.';. a day for each individual ought fully to cover all tlie outlay, even when travelling post. On a pedestrian excursion in remote situations, the expenses can hardly exceed from 3.?. to 10s. per diem. The cost of living at foreign inns is insignificant compared with that of locomotion, and the latter will of course be proportionately increased when the traveller proceeds rapidly, making long days' journeys. The above calculation will be near the mark if he travel 70 or 80 English miles a-day ; if lie limit himself to 40 or 50, the expense will probal.ly not exceed 20s. for each person. VI MONEY — CIRCULAR NOTES. PASSPORTS. Wlien the stranger, however, requires to change this or any other money into the current coin of the country in which he is traveUing, the best plan is to take them to some authorised Money-changer (Geld-wechsler, Chan- geur de monnaies), who from his profession is necessarily acquainted ^vith the rate of exchange (such persons are to be found in almost every town) ; and by no means to change them at shops or inns, where, from ignorance or fraud, travellers are liable to be cheated. Waiters, and clerks of steamboats and railway offices, are too apt to pre- sume upon the traveller's ignorance by depreciating the value of Napoleons, Sovereigns, and 10-Guilder-pieces, unless the stranger be aware of the true value, and demand specifically the full amount of change. A traveller, in changing a circular note, will of course take the money of the country, provided he intends remaining long enough in it to expend the sum taken. If, however, he is only passing through it, the best foreign gold coin he can take is Napoleons, as others bear a higher premium. The hest continental gold coins which jDcrsons bound for Germany can take with them out of England are probably the Prussian Friedrichs d'or, current for their full value throughout the states of the Custom-house League. Napoleons pass in France, Switzerland, Italy, and on the imme- mediate borders of the Ehine ; in other parts of Gei-many, though less com- mon, they are generall}^ received at little or no loss.* Gold coins are rare in many parts of the Continent, and must be purchased at a premium by those who require them. A few years back, travellers unwilling to pay an agio for gold were often obliged to receive in change for a circular note 20?. worth of silver in crown-pic ccs, dollars, and the like ; but at present the Prussian Bank-notes for 10, 5, and 1 dollar, &c., which are current in every part of Germany where the new custom-house system prevails, and the Bavarian and Austrian paper currenc}^ — both of the same value as the metallic currency — relieve the traveller from the necessity of thus loading himself. The best silver coins to take are, for Northern Germany, Prussian dol- lars, since the coins of Prussia (except the small pieces) now pass current in all the states which are members of the New Custom-house Union rZollverein) ; and for Southern Germany, Brabant dollars (ecus de Bra- bant), which are almost universally cmTent, from Frankfurt and Dresden, southwards, florins and half-florins. It is essential to be provided with the legal money of the country in which you are travelling, if you would avoid delay or extortion at inns, post-houses, &:c. In merely passing through a country, it is expedient to take no more of its coins than are necessary to caiTy one through it, as almost every state has a distinct coinage, and a certain loss must be sus- tained by each exchange. Passports. Of all the penalties at the expense of which the pleasure of travelling abroad is purchased, the most disagreeable and most repugnant to English feelings is that of submitting to the strict regulations of the continental * The anticipated influx of Californian gold seems to ha'v-e alarmed several of the Continental governments. In Holland the gold pieces of 10 and 5 guilders are no longer a le^^al tender, and in Belgium gold coin has been withdrawn from circulation (see ^^2, 19). Under these cir- cumstances the traveller had belter take lank notes that are current in the country he intends visiting. PASSPORTS. Vil police, and especially to tlie annoyance of bearing a passport. It is also often a source of great inconvenience in causing im-^-ished-for delays. As this, however, is a matter of necessity, from which there is no exemption (no one being allowed to travel on the Continent without a passport), it is better to submit with a good grace. By a little care and attention to this matter at first, the traveller may spare himself a world of vexation and inconvenience in the end. Englishmen are recommended to have Foreign Office passports, if they can obtain a banker's recommendation ; if not, a Consul's passport for the first country they are about to visit. A passport for the subjects of continental states — as has been well ex- plained by a writer in the Times — is " a legitimation or official certificate of the identity of the individual who cames it. Such a document there is no official machinery in England for issuing. In Gennany the district police keeps a register of every man, and he cannot move without his ' papers,' his * legitimation.' Granting them is then no part of the duty of the Foreign Minister, imless the person may be on a Government mission. It is necessary clearly to understand the great difierence between the con- tinental importance of a ' pass,' and the value we attach to it. AVith us it is but a larger kind of turnpike ticket, which proves nothing except that the holder has made his way so far on his journey, and is only thought useful inasmuch as it maj^ clear him through the next gate. To a Gemian the pass is the proof of his existence, and the only title he has to live and move unmolested by the police. Without it the law does not recognise him, he falls into the ni' >ric of vagabonds, thieves, and fugitives from justice, of whom everything dangerous, from arson to regicide, may be expected. A German without his ' legitimation ' in his pocket, therefore, feels like an assassin, who at any moment may feel the gi'ipe of the police on his collar. An Englishman believes (erroneously on the continent) that his presence in the shape of five feet nine of respectabilitj' on any spot of the earth's surface is proof enough at least that he must once have been born and had a name, and that nobody has charged him with swindling or theft is equally a proof that the police have nothing to do with him. He there- fore cares little for his passport, neglects the official forms, forgets to have it vised, cannot imagine why such a fuss is made about nothing, and does not scruple even to abuse any functionary who may interfere with him — in innocent ignorance that even mere unpoliteness to any eraploye is pun- ishable with fine or imprisonment, as ' insulting a deputed officer of the Crown in the discharge of his duties.' A German cannot forget his ' legitimation,' and all belonging to it, while it is equally difficult to get an Englishman to remember it. More than half the embarrassments our coimtrymen get into are caused by their own neglect. Perhaps impressing on their minds the idea that without ' papers' they are, in the ' eye of the law,' on the continent, vagabonds, thieves, and suspected persons, may induce them to pay more attention to those instnnnents. They too often only get a glimpse of the truth when they come into collision with the police." — Times. As a general rule, the utmost care should be taken of the passport, since the loss of it will subject the stranger to much trouble, and may cause him to be placed under the surveillance of the police. It should always be carried about the person, as it is liable to be constantly called for ; and, viii PASSPORTS : French and Belgian. to jjreserve it from being worn out, whicli it is likely to be from friction in the pocket, and being thumbed by the homy fingers of so many police agents and gensdarmes at each successive vise^ it is convenient to have it bound up in a pocket-hooh* \\\i\i blank leaves to receive signatures when the vacant simce on the passport itself is tiovered. Before Uavinfj England it is necessary to obtain a passport, which is generally procured from the minister of the country in which the traveller intends to land ; and it is very advisable to have it also vise, or counter- signed, by the ministers of those countries through which he proposes afterwards to pass. For instance, if he be going up the Rhine to Frank- furt, and intend to land at Rotterdam, or any other Dutch port, he may obtain a passport from the Dutch consul. If he go by Calais, he may get a French pass^Dort ; if by Ostend or Antwerp, a Secretary of State's passport, %vith the vise of the Belgian consul, for which a fee of 3s. ^d. is paid ; or he may obtain a British consul's passport at any of the foreign to^\-ns or seaports where our consuls reside. A Foreign Office passport, bearing a Prussian consul's signature, procures admittance for the bearer, without delay or difficulty, at any part of the Prussian frontier. The same rule of obtaining a signature of a minister should also be observed before entering the states of Austria — Paissia — Bavaria — France — Holland — Belgium. With many it is indispensable ; with all it is advisable. Travellers in the Low Countries, Belgium, and Germany, are not much troubled about their passport, but it is not the less indispensahle ; the stranger who is found without one ^\'ill get into trouble. — Nobody can take his place in a diligence or hire pr st-! crses without one. The different members of a family can have their names included in one passport, but friends travelling together had better provide themselves ^^4th distinct passports. Male servants should also have separate pass- ports, distinct from their masters'. This, however, adds something to the expense of having the passports vise, especially in Italy. N.B. — The signature which the bearer of a passport must attach to it when it is delivered to him ought to be written as clearly and distinctly as possible, that it may be easily read by the numerous functionaries through whose hands it is destined to pass, who are sometimes half an hour in deciphering an ill-wTitten name, while the owner is wasting his patience at the length of the 'scrutiny. By this slight precaution the loss of many a quarter of an hour may be saved. Besides the ambassadors, the consuls of the different foreign powers issue or sign passports at their offices in the city, for which a charge of 5, 6, or 7 shillings is made. The consuls deliver their passports at once, without requiring that the application should be made the day before ; their offices are also open earlier than the ambassadors', usually from 10 or 11 to 4 ; thus much time is saved, which with many will be more than an equivalent for the payment. French and Belgian Passport. French passports are issued immediately, for the sum of 5s., at the General Consulate office only, No. 47, Iving William Street, London Bridge ; Belgian, at the Belg. Consul's office, 52, Gracechurch Street, fee * Such pocket-books are made by Lee, 440, West Strand, and kept in readiness by bim. PASSPORTS : PEUSSIAX, AUSTEIAX, SEC. OF STATE S. IX 6s. Gd. The Belgian consul's vise to ca Foreign Office passport, Avhicli \vill answer still better the English traveller's purpose, may he had at the office, fee 3s. dd. As a general rule all passports ought to he coicntersigned by the minister of the countries through which the traveller is about to pass. English travellers about to enter Austria had better exchange French or Belgian passports (if they have them) for that of a British minister residing at any foreign court. Prussian Passjjort, The Prussian minister, residing in London, Tvill not give passports to Englishmen, unless personally known, or especially recommended to him. Passports delivered to Englishmen must be vise by some Prussian consular agent, either in Great Britain or on the Continent, previously to entering the Prussian dominions. Passports are still required for travelling in Prussia. The Prussian Consul-general in London no longer issues passports to British subjects, but will vise those of the British Secretary of State at his offxe, 106, Fenchurch Street, every day from 10 to 4, for which a fee of 45. is charged. Austrian Passport. The Austrian ambassador in London will neither give a passport to an Englishman, nor countersign any, except that issued by the British Secretary of State. For the traveller bound to any part of the Austrian dominions, or to Italy, the Austrian signature is atsolutely indispensaUe, and it is there- fore a matter of necessity to obtain it, if not in London,, at one of the great capitals on the Continent — at Paris, Brussels, the Hague, Frankfurt, Carlsruhe, Berlin, Dresden, Berne in Switzerland, or Munich — where an Austrian minister resides. The traveller must even go out of his way to secure it, or else when he arrives at the Austrian frontier he will either be compelled to retrace his steps, or will be kept under the surveillance of the police until his passport is sent to the nearest place where an English and Austrian ambassador reside, to be authenticated by the one and signed by the other. An Englishman's passport ought also to be signed by his own minister at the first English Embassy. British Secretary of State's Passport. The British Secretary of State's passport may be obtained at the Foreign Office in London (since February, 1851) by British subjects pro- perly recommended by a Banker, an M.P., or Peer, on payment of 7s. 6d., and is the best certificate of nationality which an Englishman cau carry abroad : indeed no Englishman at the present time should travel without it. Continental tourists are recommended to procure a Foreign Office passport, and have it countersigned, before leaving London, by the authorities of the various countries they intend to visit.* They will thus save much time and avoid inconvenience, the Foreign Secretary's passport being readily admitted all over the Continent. * Mr. Lee, bookseller, of 440, West Strand, will procure passports and vises at a moderate remuneration for his trouble, and have them mounted in a case. — See Advertisements. X TASSPOETS: CONSULS. Application for Foreign Office passports must be made in ^Titing ; and addressed to Her Majesty's Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs, with the word "passport" written upon the corner. Foreign Office passports are granted only to British subjects, including in that description foreigiaers who have been naturalized. Passports are granted between the hours of 12 and 4, on the day following that on which the application for the passport has been received, to persons who are either known to the Secretary of State, or recommended to him by some person who is known to him ; or upon the wi'itten application of any hanhing firm established in London or in any other part of the United. Kingdom. Passports cannot be sent by the Foreign Office to persons already abroad. Such persons should apply to the nearest British mission or consulate. Foreign Office passports must be countersigned at the mission, or at some consulate in England, of the Government of the country which the bearer intends to visit. A Foreign Office passport granted for one journey may be used for any subsequent journey if countersigned afresh by the ministers or consuls of the countries which the bearer intends to visit. Passport of Consuls at British Seaports and Foreign Seaports. Her Britannic Majesty's consuls abroad, at Calais, Boulogne, Ostend, Antwerp, Eotterdam, Hamburg, &c., can give a passport to a British sub- ject (charge 5 fr. 50 c.) ; so also can the consuls of France residing at Dover, Brighton, Southampton, and other British seaports ; but it is prudent to provide one in London before setting out. The writer has been thus minute and precise in his details respecting the passport, because he knows how essential it is to the traveller to have this precious document en regie, and he has experienced the serious incon- venience to which those who are not aware of the necessary formalities are constantly exposed. ( xi ) A FEW SKELETON TOURS UPON THE CONTINENT ; WITH AN APPROXIMATE STATEMENT OF THE TIME PvEQUIRED TO TRAVEL FROM PLACE TO PLACE, AND OF THE DURATION OF THE HALTS TO BE JL\DE AT THE MOST REMARKABLE SPOTS. *^* The first Colvurm. denotes tlie Hours or Days actually occupied in Travelling, not including stoppages at night. The second Column gives the probable duration of the Halts to be made for sight-seeing. The brackets [ ] denote side excursions, which may be omitted if time require it. London to the Borders of Switzer- land, THROUGH Belgium and up the Rhine. A Tour of about six weeks, allowing ample time to see all that is most re- markable by the way. Hours in Days of Travelling. Sojourn. London to Ostend by Dover . Bruffes . Ghent . Antwei-p . Mechlin . Brussels . "Waterloo Namur or Huy 9 1 1| 2 1 0| 14 1 or 2 2 or 3 [Excursion to Dinant and the gi'otto of Hans. 2 days to go and re- turn.] Liege 5 . . | [Spa 3 . . i] Aix-la-ChapeUe Id 3^ 1 Cologne . . . j S 2i [Altenberg and back . 9 Bonn, and • • • \ 4 Godesberg . , [Lake of Laach Coblenz . . . St. Goar . . . Bacharach , . Bingen . Riidesheim . . Mayence . . [Wiesbaden . Frankfurt . . ]"- -] Hours in Davsof Travelling. Sojourn \ \ \ \ 2' : : 1] 1 or 2 . . i . . j^- n . . 3 . . }:^ 2 . . Jg 3 . . k a . 12 or 14 . . — Darmstadt [Odenwald Heidelberg CarlsiTihe Baden Strasburg Freiburg Schaffhausen The excursions thi-ough Switzerland are given in Handbook for Switzer- land, Return from Switzerland to London down the Ehine. Hours. Basel to Frankfurt (Railroad) . 14 Frankfort to Cologne ... 12 Cologne to Ostend 13 A Tour of about 45 Days through Belgium, Rhenish Prussia, and Nassau. The asterisk (*) marks the number of nights to be passed at a place. Hours in Nights to Travelling. 1)6 passed. By Steam-boat to Ostend 15 * Bruges ) -d * GheSt I 5 ** Brussels J ;^ * * "Waterloo 1 4 * Namur | • • • • Huy \ 7 * Liege / ' * ■ ■ Spa 3 * SKELETON TOURS. Hours in Tsights to Travelling, be passed. Malniedi .... 5 * Treves 9 *** Descent of Moselle .10 ** Coblenz ** St. Goal- 1 Bacharach > . . . 5 Bingen J * Eiidesheim \ _, ^ Mayence ) * * ' Frankfurt (Eailixl.) . 1^ *** "Wiesbaden .... 1^ * Schwalbach. ... 2 * Ems 4 * Coblenz 2 * 'Andemach .... 2 * [Excursion to Laacber See 1 day] Eemagen .... 3 [Excursion up tbe Alir 10 *] Godesberg .... 2 ** [Excursion to Friesdorf 2 — Dracbenfels 6 — Heisterbach 5] Bonn 1 ** Cologne r 1 ALx-la-Cba- peUe '^' Liege J S 10^ Louvain 'Z Malines P4 Antwerp London . . 25 Distances in Eng. miles from Lon- don to Frankftut, by Rotterdam, Antwerp, and Ostend. Miles. London to Briclle . .180 Brielle to Rotterdam . 20 200 Rotterdam to Emmerich . Ill — to Hague 12 ^- to Amster- dam 40 Emmerich to DUsseldorf 73| 184| Diisseldorf to Cologne. . 3H — to Elberfeld, 20 Cologne to Bonn . . 20i Bonn to Coblenz . 45^ Carried forward . . 482 Brought forward . Coblenz to Boppart Boppart to Caub . . Caub to Bingen . . Bingen to Bieberich . Bieberich to Wiesbaden 3^ — to Mayence . Miles. 482 14i 3 Mayence London Flushing to Frankfurt 22 to Mannheim46| to Flushing .163 to Antwerp . 6(d Antwerp to Brussels 26 j — to Liege . Liege to Aix-la-Chapelle Aix-la-Chapelle to Diisseldorf ^ — to Cologne J o9i 54U 229 62 28 362i L(mdon Ostend to Ostend . . to Ghent 44f to Brussels 30^ to Liege . . 136 , 124 260 Brussels to Liege 67. LoNDOX TO Frankfurt axd Basle. (By Steam all the way.) By avoiding all stoppages, except to sleep at night, it is possible to reach Frankfiut on the 3rd night from London. Hours in going To Ostend 9 Cologne 13 Coblenz 7 Mavence 7 Frankfurt (RaHwav) .... U Basle (I ilway) 14 ( ^iii ) Table I. Various Foreign Measures of Length reduced to English Measure. 1 Dutch mile . . = English mile. Eng. m. Furl. Yards. or 19- =1^ 3-634= 3 5 16 1 Belgian post . = 4-66 = 4 4 61 14'83=1° 1 Germ. GeogT. mile = 4-6 = ^ 4 176 15' =1° 1 Prussian mile . = 4-68 = 4 5 96 14-77=1° 1 Saxon mile . . = 4-66 = 4 5 61 14-83=1^ 1 Hanoverian mile = 4-6 = 4 4 176 15- =1° 1 m. Hesse Darmst. = 4-66 - 4 5 61 14-83=1° The Prussian or Phineland foot, which is divided into 12 inches = 12-356 English inches, or 0-31382 metre. The Prussian ell is 205- Prussian inches = -26-256 English inches, or 0-6669 metre. The ruthe is 12 Prussian or Ehine- land feet = 4-118 English yai-ds. A Prussian mile is 2000 ruthen = 7-532 kilometres. The Dresden foot = 11-24 English inches, or 14 Dresden feet = 13 English feet, nearly. 1 Dresden ell = 2 Dresden feet = 1 ft. lOf inch. English, nearly. 21 Dresden ells = 13 English yards. 1 Dresden ruthe = 8 Dresden ells = 4-996 English yards. There are two kinds of feet generally used in Holland, \az. the Amsterdam foot and the Ehineland foot. The Amsterdam foot is divided into 11 inches, and each inch is divided into quarters and eighths. This foot = 11 '147 English inches, or 0-283133 metres. The value of the Ehineland foot is given ahove. There are thi-ee ells used in Holland, \'iz. the ell of Amsterdam = 27-0797 English inches ; the ell of the Hague = 27-333 English inches ; and the ell of Brabant =27-585 English inches. In Belgium, since 1820, the French decimal system, founded on the metre, is generally used. 1 metre = 39-37079 English inches; 1 kilometre = 1093-6331 EngKsh yards; 1 mp-iametre = 6 miles 5 fmlongs 176 yards, English measure. 1610 metres = 1 English mile. ( xiv ) Table II. Englisli Money reduced to an equivalent Yahie in the English Money. £. s. d. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 20 30 40 50 Hamburg, l Mar. 1 2 3 4 5 6 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 12 13 14 15 16 17 34 51 68 85 102 120 137 154 171 342 514 685 857 Sch. H 33 44 ^ 6g lOf llf 124 13f llf ^ i^ I' 13f 111 6f 44 2f 13f llf 9^ 9f 2| H 6f llf ^ 2^, Til. 1 1 1 2 2 2 3 3 3 4 4 4 5 5 5 6 6 6 13 20 26 33 40 46 53 60 66 133 200 266 333 G. Gr. 01 H 6 6| 71 8^ 16 8 16 8 16 8 16 8 16 8 16 8 16 8 16 8 16 8 16 8 16 Prussia. 2 Th. 1 1 1 2 2 2 3 3 3 4 4 4 5 5 5 6 6 6 13 20 26 33 40 46 53 60 66 133 200 266 333 S. Gr. n 10 20 10 20 10 20 10 20 10 20 10 20 10 20 10 20 10 20 10 20 10 20 10 1 16 Hamburg Shillings — to 1 Marc. 2 24 Good Groschen or 30 Silver Groschen 3 60 Kreutzers = to 1 Florin. 4 20 Stivers = to 1 Guilder. * 100 Venetian Cents = to 1 Lira. to 1 Thaler. ( XV ) Table II. !Money of various States on the Continent of Europe. Austria.3 Fl. 1 1 2 2 3 3 4 4 5 5 6 6 7 7 9 9 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 200 300 400 500 10' 15 1-i 20 221 25" 271 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 Frankfurt.3 Bavaria. Fl. 1 1 o 3 3 4 4 5 6 6 7 7 9 10 10 11 12 24 36 48 60 72 84 96 108 120 240 360 480 600 Kr. 3 6 9 12 15 18 21 24 27 30 33 36 12 48 24 36 12 48 24 36 12 48 24 36 12 48 24 Holland. 4 Gui. 1 1 2 3 3 4 4 5 6 6 7 7 8 9 9 10 10 11 12 24 36 48 60 72 84 96 108 120 240 360 480 600 Stiv. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 4 16 8 12 4 16 8 12 4 16 8 12 4 16 8 Venetian Lombardv.5 Lira. 1 1 1 1 1 3 4 6 7 9 10 12 13 15 16 18 19 21 22 24 25 27 28 30 60 90 120 150 180 210 240 270 300 600 900 1200 1500 Cts. 25 50 62i 75 87i -1--2 25 37i 50 50 50 50 50 50 50 50 50 50 France. 6 10 11 12 13 15 16 17 18 20 21 22 23 25 50 75 100 125 150 175 200 225 250 500 750 1000 1250 6 100 French Cents = to 1 Franc. If more be received for a pound sterling than is expressed on this scale, it will be 80 much gain by the exchange ; if less, it will be so much loss, (Tliis is not for the use of merchants, but travellers.) A HANDBOOK TRAVELLERS U BELGILII AND UP THE RHIXE. SECTION I. BELGIUM. Introductory Ixformatiox. 18. Passports. — 19. Money. — 20. Postitig. — 21. Diligences; Hired Carriages ^ Barriers; Roads. — 22. Railroads. — 23. Inns. — 24. General View of Belgium. — 25. Belgian Cities and Architecture. — 26. Chimes {Carillons). —27. Works of Jj't , Schools of Van Eych and Rubens. EOUTES, ROUTE PAGE 1 ROUTE PAGE 15. Calais to Brussels by Tjlle '25. Liege to Aix-la-Chapelle by — Railway . . ' . . . 14 t Verviers, and yisit to Spa 16. Calais to Coidrai, by Dun- —Eailway 89 kirk and Tpres .... 22 26. Brussels to Liege by Zouvain 17. Calais to Ostend or Bniges . 26 — Eailway 94 18. London to Antwerp bv the 27. Briissels to Aix-la-Chapelle by Schelde ' . . 26 Maestricht 93 19. Ghent to Brussels by Alost . 30 28. Bi-ussels to Xaniui- by Hal, 20. London or Dover to" Ostend . 31 Braine le Comte, and Char- 21. Ostend to Bruges, Ghent, Tcr- leroi — Eailway .... 100 monde, and Mechlin — 28j i. Chai-leroi. to Morialme — Eailway 32 ' Eailway 101 21^ .. Bi-uges to Conrtrai— Eail- 29. Naniur to Luxemburg and way 48 Treves 101 22. Ghent to Anticerp — Rail- 30. Namur to Dinant and Givet way 48 by the Jletise 102 22j L. Antwei-p to Tumhout, and the Belgian Pauper Co- 31. The Ai-dennes, Dinant to ffans sur Lesse, St. Hubert, and lonies 63 ' Bouillon 104 23. Antwerp) to Brussels by J/a- 32. Brussels to 3Ions and Valen- lines — Railway .... 64; ciennes, on the way to 24. Brussels to Ziege by Waterloo and Xamur. — Descent of the Meuse to Maestricht . 1 1 74 Paris— Eailway . . . 106 18. Passports. Custom-house. The Belgian Consul in London issues, immediately, passports to all who may require them, at 52, Gracechurch Street, upon payment of a fee of 6s. 6d., between the hoiu-s of 12 and 4; his visa to Foreign Office passports may also be obtained on paying 3s. 9d. Except in the frontier towns, and at Brussels, the capital, passports are now seldom required by the police in Belgium. More sti-ictness is observed since the political events of 1848. The under- functionaries of the Belgian police and 2 19. iioxEY. — 20. POSTixG. Sect. L custom-house officers, often display in their conduct instances of insolence, dila- toriness, and neglect of their duties, very annoying to the traveller, and contrasting singularly "vrith the invariable politeness and punctuality of similar officers in Prussia and Austria. The search at the Belgian custom-houses, especially on the French and German frontier, is strict, and fi-equently vexatious. Travelling carriages are not subject to duty on entering Belgium, when they are accompanied by their OA\Tiers ; when they are new, and not so accompanied, they are subject to an ad valorem duty of 7 per cent. 19. Money. French money is current throughout Belgium ; indeed the currency of Bel- gium has the same coins and divisions as the French. The smaller Dutch coins are also met with, and travellers should beware of confounding cents with centimes. At Brussels, even ia good shops, cents are charged. A cent, being j^ of a guilder, is equal to 2 centimes. BELGIAN AND FRENCH MONEY. 1 franc = 100 centimes = 20 sous = 9^d. English. Silver coins : — s. d. J franc ^ 2 5 centimes . . . . = 2^ | English, i ditto = 50 ditto . . . . = 4:f 5 ditto = = 40 Gold coins : — Louis d'or = 24 fr =19 Leopold d'or, Xapolcon, or 20 -fi-anc 1 ..- . ^ piece J FOREIGN COINS REDUCED TO FRENCH CURRENCY. /:• '■ English Sovereign = 2.5 50 Crown = 6 25 Shilling = 1 25 Dutch AViUiam = 10 Guilders . = 21 16 Guilder = 2 15 Pinissian Dollar = 3 75 Frederick d'or . . . . = 21 00 Bavarian Florin = 20 pence English = 2 15 Kron Thaler . . . . = 5 81 Austrian Floiin == 2 shillings English= 2 57 The Bank of Belgium issues notes of the value of 1000, 500, 100, 50, and 20 francs. The Belgian Chambers have recently passed an act for the withdi-awal of all gold coin, both Belgian and foreign, from circulation. 20. Posting. — Barriers and Eoads. Two Belgian or French leagues make a post (equal to nearly 5 miles English, or about 1 German mile). The precise length of the lieue de poste is 3898 metres = 4263 yds. English = 2 English m. 743 yds. 1600 metres = 1 EngUsh mile. In many places the roads are measured in kilometres. A kilo- metre = 1093 yds., or 4 furlongs and 213 yds., or 5 furlongs less 7 yds. ; in round numbers | of an English mile. Posting in Belgium is arranged nearly upon the old French footing. The following tarifi' is extracted fi-om the " Li\'re de Poste," published at Brus- sels : — The charge for each horse per post is 1 fr. 50 centimes, or 30 sous. The charge — postilion — 75 centimes, or 15 sous. Belgium. 20. postln'g. tariff. 3 It is usual to give at least 1 \ franc per post to the postilion ; indeed, it is custom- ary with English travellers to alloiv him 2 francs, or 40 sous, per post. He may, however, be resti-icted to the sum fixed by the tariff, when he has conducted himself improperly. (Posting in France is now regulated by kilometres : the charges per kilometre ai-e, for 2 horses at 4 sous each, 8 sous for a horse, for a third person, 3 sous. Postilion 16 sous.) To make a constant practice of giving the French and Belgian postboys 40 sous apiece appears quite unnecessary. Our countrymen who do this can hardly be aware that they are paying at the rate of 4<;/. a mile (English), in a country where the necessaries of Life ai-e far cheaper than in England, while at home the customaiy rate of payment for a postilion is only M. a mile. This exti'avagant remuneration is, besides, contraiy to the express injunction of the French "Livi-e de Poste," which says, — " Les voyageiu-s conservent done la faculte de restreindre le prix des guides a 75 centimes, a titre de punition ; et ils seront in"\'ites par les maiti'cs de poste, et dans I'interet du service, a ne jamais depasser la reti'ibution de 1 fr. 50 centimes par poste." The lasting regulations allot one horse to each person in a carriage ; but allow the traveller, at his option, either to take the full complement of horses, at the rate of 30 sous each, or to take 2 or 3 at 30 sous, and to pay for the rest at 20 sous, without taking them. Thus a paiiy of 4 persons in a light britzka may be drawn by 2 horses, paying 2 francs extra for the 2 persons above the number of horses ; or 3 persons niav ti'avel with 2 horses, paying 80 sous for their horses per post. Where the can-iage is so light as not to require as many horses as there are pas- sengers, it is, of course, a saving of 10 sous a post for each horse to dispense with them, and it renders unnecessaiy the use of shafts. Tariif for Belgium^ Piedmont, Savoy, and part of Switzerland ; alloicing 30 sous for each Horse, and 40 soils for each Postilion, per post. Includes one Postilion at 40 sous j Includes two Postilions at 40 sons per post. 1 each per post. Posts. Two 1 Three Four Five Four Five Six Seven Eight Horses. Horses. Horses. Horses. Horses. Horses. Horses. Horses. Horses. f. s. f. s. f. s. f. s. f. s. f. s. f. s. f. s. f. s. 1 2 10 3 5 4 4 15 5 5 15 6 10 7 5 8 5 6 10 8 9 10 ; 10 11 10 13 14 10 16 1\ 6 5 ' 8 2 10 11 17 , 12 10 14 7 16 5 18 2 20 li 7 10 9 15 12 14 5 15 17 5 19 10 21 15 24 It 8 15 11 7 14 16 12 17 10 20 2 22 15 25 7 28 o' 10 13 16 19 20 23 26 29 32 oi 11 5 14 12 18 21 7 22 10 25 17 29 5 32 12 36 2I 12 10 16 5 20 23 15 25 28 15 32 10 36 5 40 •71 13 15 17 17 22 26 2 27 10 31 12 35 15 39 17 44 l^ 15 19 10 24 28 10 30 34 10 39 43 10 48 3t 16 5 1 21 2 26 30 17 1 32 10 37 7 42 5 47 2 52 4 17 10 22 15 28 33 5 i 35 40 5 45 10 50 15 56 H iS 18 24 7 30 35 12 1 37 10 43 2 48 15 54 7 60 4" 20 1 26 ■ 32 38 ■ 40 46 52 1 58 64 The above table supposes that the full quota of horses arc attached to the car- riage ; the following table is drawn up for cases in which some of the horses are dispensed with, and 20 sous paid instead. 21 . MODES OF TRAVELLING. 22. RAILROADS. Sect. I. Postilions at 40 Sous a Post. 2 persons and 2 horses at 5 francs per post . . 3 persons and 2 horses at 6 fr-ancs per post . . 4 persons and 2 horses at 7 francs per post . . 5 persons and 3 horses at 8^ francs per post . . i Post, i Post, f Post. 1 Post. 2 Posts. 3 Pests. f. s. 1 5 1 10 1 15 2 21 f. s. f. s. 2 10 : 3 15 3 4 10 3 10 j 5 5 i 4 5:67^ f. 5 6 7 8 s. 10 f. 10 12 14 17 s. f s. 15 18 21 25 10 2 Postilions at 40 Sous each. 6 persons and 4 horses at 12 francs per post . . 3 GO 9 12 r'^ 36 In fixing the number of h orses to "be attach 3d the po stma ster takes into account the nature, size, and weight of the carnage, and the quantity of higgage ; a landau or berlLn. always requires 3 horses at least, generally 4 ; a chariot will reqmre 3, while a britzka holding the same number of persons will need onlj^ 2. Po]/al Posts. — Half a post exti-a is charged upon post-horses arri-dng at or f[uitting Bi-ussels, and j of a post extra on quitting Ghent, Liege, Mons, and Xamui'. 1 franc is charged for greasing the wheels. Xo duty is paid on tra- velling carriages in Belgium when they are accompanied by thefr owners. 21. Travelling by Diligences, or hired Carriages. — Barriers. — Roads. Diligences are conducted nearly on the same footing as in Holland (§ 4) ; thoy belong to private individuals or companies. They are frequently ill-managed and uncomfortable. Rircd Carriages. — Persons not travelling in their own carriages, and unwilling to resort to the diligence, may have a voitui-c with 2 horses at the rate of about 25 francs a-day, and 5 francs to the diiver ; but they must, at the same time, pay 25 francs per diem back fare, making 50 francs per diem for carnage and horses. Barrieres. — There is usually a toll-gate every league in Belgium. The tolls are fixed at 10 centimes for a 4- wheeled carnage, and 20 centimes for each horse, including the return. The barrier is marked by a lamp-post at the road-side. It is customary to pay the tolls to the postboy instead of stopping at each, by which much time is saved. Roads. — Most of the Belgian roads are paved, which renders travelling over them very fatiguing, especially for ladies. The efiect produced by them on carriage wheels is most destructive : a single day's journey over these chaussees will sometimes cause them to split and start, unless they are made veiy stout. The postilion should be desired to drive on the unpavcd gi-ound at the side as much as possible {allez sur le chemia de terre). After rain, however, when the side of the road is a mass of mud, and in frosty weather, when the deep ruts are as hard as stone, it woidd be difficult for him to comply. Private carnages are now taken on the railroad. 22. PtAILROADS. Belgium, from the level siu-face of the country, is peculiarly well suited for railroads, which can be constructed at much less cost here than in England, and have in consequence extended their ramifications thi'ough all parts of the king- Belgium. 22. railroads. o dom. Meclilin is the point at "vrhich the 2 main lines intersect — one travers- ing Belgium from E. to "VT., the other from X. to S. Most of them have been constructed at the expense of the government of Belgium, hut with much economy. The rate of travelling is only 12 or 15 m. an hour ; hut the /a/'vith their families, counts nearly a third of the whole inhabitants. The late kingdom of the Xetherlands was built up of the fragments of other states, and ' ' kept together rather by the pressure of suiTOunding Europe than bv any internal piinciples of cohesion." The Belgians differ fr-om the Dutch in tw-'o essential poiuts, which are quite sufficient to make them incapable of any per- manent union : they are French in inclination and Eoman Catholics in religion. Their history exhibits none of those striking traits of heroic pati-iotism which have distinguished the Dutch annals ; there is nothing mai'ked in their cha- racters ; and though free from that dull plodding patience and cold calculation of gaia which belong to their phlegmatic neighbom-s, they are equally devoid of the high-minded courage and ceaseless perseverance which have distinguished them. Though lovers of libei-ty, the Belgians have been dependent on a succession of foreign masters, Burgimdian, Spanish, Austrian, or French. The mania of the Crusades having possessed with especial fei-vour the nobles of Flanders, they were incited to make every species of sacrifice in frirtherance of their favourite purpose. Lands, political powers, and privileges were parted with, on the spiu* of the moment, to furnish means for then- expedition. Their wealthy vassals, the burghers of Bruges, Ghent, and other great towns, were thus enabled, by their riches, to purchase theii- independence. They forthwith formed themselves into communes or corporations, and began to exercise the right of deliberating on their own affairs ; elected bailiffs (echevins) ; obtained a jurisdiction of their own, and with it a great seal ; and evinced their sense of these advantages by building a huge belfry, or a vast town-hall, as a ti-ophy or temple of their liberties. But though the Flemish bm-ghers gained their freedom from their feudal lords much sooner than most other nations, they threw away the boon by theii- petty jealousies and quarrels among one another. To use the words of the most dis- tinguished living British historian, " Liberty never wore a more unamiable coun- 8 26. BELGIAN CITIES, AND THEIR ARCHITECTURE. Sect. I. tenance than among these burghers, who abused the strength she gave them by cmelty and insolence." — Rallam. They have suffered from their faults ; theii- goveimacnt has been subject to pei-petual changes, and their country has been the scene of -war for centm'ies : a mere arena for combat — the Cockpit of Europe. The natural consequence of so many revolutions has been a certain debasement of the national character, evinced in the lower orders by ignorance, and a coarse- ness of manners which will be particularly apparent to every traveller. He that would travel with the full pleasm-e of historical associations should be weU read in Froissart ere he visits Belgium ; and when he repairs to Ghent, let him not fail to carry Henry Taylor's " Philip van Artevelde " in his hand. 25. Belgian Cities, and their Architecture. " Belgium contains a multitude of interesting examples of architectural skill in the middle ages, eminently worthy of careful study, and sufficient, from the diversity of the epochs they mark and the character they bear, to illustrate fully a history of the rise and progi-ess of Gothic architecture, and the re-birth of Italian ai-t."— (r. Godusinjun., F.B.S. " It is in the streets of Antwei-p and Brussels that the eye still rests upon the forms of architecture which appear in the pictures of the Flemish school — those fionts, richly decorated with various ornaments, and terminating in roofs, the slope of which is concealed from the eye by windows and gables still more highly ornamented ; the whole comprising a general effect, which, from its grandeur and intricacy, at once amuses and delights the spectator. In fact this rich intermis- tui-e of towers and battlements, and projecting windows highly sculptured, joined to the height of the houses, and the variety of ornament upon their fronts, pro- duces an effect as superior to those of the tame imifonnity of a modern street, as the casc[ue of the wanior exhibits over the slouched broad-brimmed beaver of a Quaker."— ^StV Walter Scott. In England, Gothic architecture is almost confined to churches ; in the Nether- lands it is shown to be equally suited to civil edifices, and even for dwelling- houses. The Town HaUs (Hotels de YiUe, HaUes, &:c.) at Ypres, Bruges, Ghent, Oudenarde, Bnissels, and Louvain, are especially worthy of attention : they are most perfect examples of the Gothic style ; and it may tnily be asserted that nowhere else in the whole of Europe are any civic edifices found to approach in gi'andeiu- and elegance those of Belgium. Amongst the privileges granted to the towns when they first acquii'ed communal rights none seemed to have been deemed gi-eater, or were more speedily acted upon, than the right of building a belfry to call together the citizens, and a hall as a general meeting-place. '^ " The domestic architectui-e of Belgium offers an infinite variety, and offers numerous hints for present application. "NVithin a very small cii'cle, in some cases even in a single city, examples may be foxmd of the different styles of building which have prevailed at intervals, say of 50 years, fi'om the 11th or 12th cent. to the present time. At Toumay, a most interesting old toMTi, there are several exceedingly ancient houses ; one of an interesting character is .situated near the Ch. of St. Brice. The whole is of stone and terminates in a gable. The windows, about 5 ft. high and 4 ft. wide, are each di'S'ided into 2 openings by a small column with plain leafed capital. The adjoining front is precisely similar. In the Eue des Jesuits there are some houses of the same character, but of a somewhat more advanced period. The columns and caps, are nearly the same as those before mentioned, and the upper part, perhaps 50 or 60 ft. in extent, consists wholly of windows and small piers cdtemately. Ghent and Malines display similarly ancient houses. An eaily advance upon this arrangement would probably be the introduction of a transom to divide the windows into 4, and so to form a croisee. In the gable of an old house at Ghent, near the Hotel de Ville, ajjpears a large pointed window, quite ecclesiastical in aspect, with mul- Belgium. 25. belgiax ArxHiTECTCRE. 20. chimes. 9 lions, traceried head, and label. A house near the Grand Place at Tournay affords a veiy perfect example of the application of pointed architecture to a street front at the beginning of the 16th cent. ; and the Hotel d'Egmont at Ghent shows another application of the same style when it was beginning to exhibit symptoms of decline ; as also, on a much more elaborate scale, does the well-known Maison des Francs Bateliers in the same city. " Xear the Eglise de Chateau at Tournay is a large building, now the Horse Infiitnaiy for the artillery, which would seem to be an example at a later stage of the decline. It is consti-uctcd of red brick and stone, and presents gabies, pointed-headed windows, other square windows divided by mulhons, and large dormers in the roof. The mouldings, however, are Italianised ; the dischargii::g arches, partly stone and partly brick, which occiu* even over the pointed-headed openings, are made into adornments, and all the ornaments which appear are of a mixed design. Later still the line of the gable became altered into a scroll, the mullions of the windows disappeared, and the Gothic panelling on the face of the buUding gave place to pilasters and entablatirres, elaborately adorned with figures, fiaiit, and foliage, as may be seen in numberless examples remaining in most of the towns." — G. Godirin j»n.^ F.R.S. The opulent burghers of these cities, once the most flourishing in Europe from their commerce and manufactui-es, were little inferior to princes in power and riches ; and the municipal structui-es which they founded may compete with the ecclesiastical in point of taste, elegance, and magniiicence ; they are in fact civic palaces, destined either for the residence of the chief magistrate, for the meeting of guilds and corporations of merchants and trades, or for assemblies of the mu- nicipal government, and sometimes of courts of justice. Belgium also possesses noble Gothic cathedrals at Mechlin, Brussels, Louvain, Liege, Tournay, and, above all, at Antwerp. The chiirches are usually open till noon, but as the side chapels, the choir, and the finest pictures are locked up, it is necessary, even at the open horn-, to resort to the Suisse, or sexton, to see them. Notwithstanding the display of splendour in individual buildings, it is difficult to traverse, in the present day, the deserted and inanimate streets of the great Belgian cities without a feeling of melancholy at the aspect of decay which they exhibit. They have lost theii' pre-eminence in commerce and mamifactures ; their population has shnink, in many instances, to one-half of its original amoimt ; the active arm of industry is paralysed ; and the looms which once supplied not only Em-ope, but Asia, with the most costly stuffs, are now supplanted by the colonies which Flanders itself sent forth into England and Italy. "NVithin the last few years large simis have been laid out in repairing and restoring the principal buildings in Belgiimi. Amongst those restored may be mentioned St. Gudule and the town-hall at Biaissels, the cathedi-al at Antwerp, St. Bavon at Ghent, and the cathedral at Tournay. The characteristics of the cities of Belgium are given in the following verses ia monkish Latin : — " Xobilibus* Bnixella vuis, Antvei-piaf nummis, Gandavum| laqueis, formosis Burga§ puellis, Lovaniiun|l doctis, gaudet Meckliniall stultis." 26. Chimes (Carillons) and Clocks. Chimes, or cariUons, were invented in the Low Coimtries ; they have certainly been brought to the greatest perfection here, and are still heard in every town. • Brussels was the seat of the Court, and therefore the residence of the nobility. -|- Antwerp was, perliaps, at one time the wealthiest city in Europe. The majiistrates of Ghent were compelled to wear a halter round their necks by Charles V. ^ Bruses still retains its reputation for pretty girls. 1, TliP University of I.ouvain, in former days, rendered it the resort of the learned. *^J The joke about the wise men of Mechlin i< explained in the description of that town. [r. & R.] C 10 27. WORKS OF ART IN THE LOW COUNTRIES. Sect. I. They are of two kinds ; the one attached to a cylinder like the barrel of an organ, ^hich al\rays repeats the same tunes, and is moTcd by machinery ; the other of a superior kind, played by a musician, M'ith a set of keys. In all the gi-eat to^-ns there are amateurs or a salaried professor, usually the organist of a chiirch, "«ho perform with great skill upon this gigantic instrument, placed high up in the church steeple. So fond are the Dutch and Belgians of this kind of music, that in some places the chimes appear scarcely to be at rest for ten minutes, either by day or night. The times are usually changed every year. Chimes were in ex- istence at Bruges in loOO — thus the claim of the town of Alost to the invention, A.D. 1487, is disposed of. The public clocks in Belgium strike the hoiu- half an hour beforehand : thus, at half-past 11 the clock strikes 12. 27. Works of Art in the Low Countries.* — The Schools of Van Eyck AND Rubens. It is not in architecture alone that the artists of Belgium have attained an eminent degree of perfection : this countn^ has had the rare distinction, at two distinct periods, of producing two different Schools of Painting ; the fouirders of which, in both instances, equalled and even sui-passed their contemporaries throughout the whole of Europe inthe excellence of their works. The founders of the two schools of painting were Van Eyck and Eubcns. The numerous works produced by them and their scholars, stOl existing in Belgium, and nowhere else to be found in equal perfection, form another great attraction of a journey through this country, and will be highly appreciated by every traveller of taste. The brothers IIuuert and John Van Evck, the foxmders of the early school, are believed to have flourished between 1370 and 1445. The painters were em-olled at Bruges as early as 1358 into a guild, which enjoyed the same pri\-ileges as any other corporation, and attained the highest reputation imder Philip the Good, whose coxu-t at Bruges was resorted to by men of learning and science, as well as artists of the first eminence in Europe, in whose society he took great delght. It was in consequence of this patronage that the brothers Hubert and John Van Eyck (the latter sometimes caUed John of Bniges) settled there, and have left behind them so many proofs of their skill as painters, some of which still remain at Biiiges. In the days of the Van Eycks the cor- poration consisted of more than 3i;>0 painters, who were enrolled on the books, and formed the most celebrated school of art of the time. Van Eyck, though not, as is sometimes stated, the original inventor of oil painting, may, at any rate, be justly termed ihe father of the art, as he introduced some improvement, either in the material or the mode of mixing and applying the colours, which produced a new effect, and was immediately brought into general use. Although oil painting had been previously practised in Italy, Giotto having mixed oil Mith his coloms nearly 200 years before the time of Van Eyck, we find that an Italian artist, Antonello of Messina, made a journey to Flanders on piu-pose to learn this new method ; and it is also recorded that Andi-ea del Castegna, to whom he imparted it, murdered a brother artist through whom the secret had been conveyed, in order to prevent the knowledge extending fmther. The depth and brightness of Van Eyck's coloiu's, which, if they can be equalled, are certainly not to be sui-passed in the present day, and their perfect preservation, are truly a soui'ce of wonder and admiration, and prove with what rapid strides these artists had anived at entire perfection in one very important department of painting. The works of the brothers Van Eyck are rare, and scarcely, for this reason, perhaps, appreciated as they desen'c in England. "With them must be associated Hans Hemling (or Memling), another artist of the same school, whose name even * See Kiigler's Handbook of Painting ; German and Dutch Schools. Belgium. 27. VAX eyck and rubexs. 1 1 is hardly known except to a very fe^r among us. His mastcrineccs exist at Bmges in the hospital of St. John and in the Academy : no traveller should omil to see them. If he have any love for ait, or any pretension to taste, he will not fail to ailmire the exquisite delicacy and feeling" which they display, their bril- liancy of coloming, and purity- of tone. In contemplating the works of the earhi Flemish school, it must he home ia mind that the artists who attained to such excellence at so early a period had none of the classic works of antiquity to guide them, no great masters to imitate and study fi'om : the path they sti-uck out was entirely original ; they had no models but natiu-e, and such natiu-e as was before them. Hence it happens that their works exhibit a stiffness and formality, and a meagi-eness of outiiue, which are unpleasing to the eye, combined %vith a want of reiinement which is often repugnant to good taste. Still these defects are more than coimterbalanced by truth and force of expression, and not unfi'equently by an elevation of sentiment in the representation of sacred subjects. The progress of the Flemish School may be traced, in an miinten-upted course, thi-ough the works of Quentin Matsys, Frans Floris, de Yos, the Breughels, and a number of artists little known in England, down to Otto Yennius and Rubens. School of liuheus. — The ruling spirits of the second epoch of Flemish art were EuBEN's and his distinguished pupil Yaxdyke. And here we shall asjain avail om-selves of the excellent observations of Sir Joshiia Reynolds, being fidly con- vinced of how great value they will prove to the yoimg traveller. They ^^-ill induce him not to rest satisfied with the name of a painter and the subject of a pictm-e ; they will point out to him the beauties, the reason vliy such works are esteemed, and induce him to examine for himself, thus enabling him to fonn his taste, and to cany with him a perception of excellence by which he may exercise a critical judgment of painting in general. Character of Jiubens. — " The works of men of genius alone, where great ftiults are united with great beauties, afford proper matter for criticism. Genius is always eccentric, bold, and daring ; which, at the same time that it commands attention, is sure to provoke criticism. It is the regiilar, cold, and timid com- poser who escapes unseen and deserves no praise. " The elevated situation on which Rubens stands in the esteem of the world is alone a sufficient reason for some examination of his pretensions. His fame is extended over a great part of the Continent without a rival ; and it may be justly said that he has emiched his country, not in a figm-ative sense alone, by the great examples of art which he left, but by what some would think a more solid advantage, — the wealth arising fi-oni the concourse of strangers whom his works continually invite to Antwerp. To extend his gloiy stiU fiuther, he gives to Paris one of its most stiiking featiux'S, the Luxemburg Gallery ; and if to these Ave add the many towns, chm'ches, and private cabinets where a single picture of Rubens confers eminence, we cannot hesitate to place him in the fii-st rank of illustiious painters. Though I still entertain the same general opinion both with regard to his excellences and defects, yet, ha^-ing now seen his greatest compo- sitions, where he has more means of displaying those parts of his ai-t in which he particularly excelled, my estimation of his genius is, of course, raised. It is only in large compositions that his powers seem to have room to expand themselves. They really increase in proportion to the size of the canvas on which they are to be displayed. His superiority is not seen in easel pictures, nor even in detached parts of his greater works, which are seldom eminently beautifid. It does not lie in an attitude, or in any pecidiar expression, but in the general effect, — in the genius which per\-ades and illuminates the whole. " The works of Rubens have that peculiar property always attendant on genius, — to atti'act attention and enforce atbniration in spite of all their faults. It is owing to this fascinating power that the performances of those painters with which he is surrounded, though they have, peihaps, fewer defects, yet appear c 2' 12 27. CHARACTER OF RUBEXS. Sect. I. spiritless, tame, and insipid ; such, as- the altar-pieces of Grayer, Scliut, Segers, Huysum, Tyssens, Van Balen, and the rest. They are done by men whoso hands, and indeed all their faculties, appear to have been cramped and confined ; and it is evident that everything they did was the effect of great labour and pains. The productions of Rubens, on the contrary, seem to flow with a free- dom and prodigality^, as if they cost him nothing ; and to the general animation of the composition there is always a correspondent spirit in the execution of the work. The sticking brilliancy of his colours, and their lively opposition to each other ; the flowing liberty and freedom of his outline ; the animated pencil with which eveiy object is touched, — all contribute to awaken and keep alive the attention of the spectator ; awaken in him, in some measm-e, con-espondent sensa- tions, and make him feel a degree of that enthusiasm with which the painter was caiTied awa}'. To this we may add the complete unifonnit}^ in all the parts of the work, so that the whole seems to be conducted and grow out of one mind : eveiything is of a piece and fits its place. Even his taste of drawing and of fomi appears to coiTespond better with his colom-ing and composition than if he had adopted any other manner, though that manner, simply considered, might have been better. It is here, as in personal attractions, there is fi-eqiiently found a certain agreement and cori'cspondence in the whole together, which is often more captivating than mere regular beauty. " Eubens appears to have had that confidence in himself which it is necessary for every artist to assume when he has finished his studies, and may venture in some measxu-e to throw aside the fetters of authority ; to consider the niles as subject to his control, and not himself subject to the niles ; to risk and to dare extraordinary' attempts without a guide, abandoning himself to his own sensa- tions, and depending upon them. To this confidence must be imputed that originality of manner by which he may be tnily said to have extended the limits of the art. After Eubens had made up his manner, he never looked out of himself for assistance : there is, consequently, very little in his works that appears to be taken from other masters. If he has borrowed anything, he has had the address to change and adapt it so well to the rest of his work that the thief is not discoverable. " Besides the excellency of Rubens in these general powers, he possessed the true art of imitating. He saw the objects of nature with a painter's eye ; he saw at once the predominant feature by which eveiy object is known and distin- guished ; and as soon as seen, it was executed with a facility that is astonishing : and, let me add, this facility is to a painter, when he closely examines a pictui'e, a source of great pleasure. How far this excellence may be perceived or felt by those who are not painters I know not : to them certainly it is not enough that objects be tnily represented; they must likewise be represented with grace, which means here that the work Ls done with facility and without effort. Rubens was, perhaps, the greatest master in the mechanical part of the art, the best workman with his tools, that ever exercised a pencil, " This power, which Rubens possessed in the highest degree, enabled him to repn'sent whatever he undertook better than any other painter. His animals, particularly lions and horses, are so admirable, that it may be said they weie never properly represented but by him. His portraits rank with the best works of the i^ainters who have made that branch of the art the sole business of their lives ; and of these he has left a great variety of specimens. The same may be said of his land.scapes ; and though Cla\ide Lorraine finished more minutely, as becomes a professor in any particular branch, yet there is such an airiness and facility in the landscapes of Rubens, that a painter would as soon wish to be the author of them as those of Claude, or any other artist whatever. " The pictm-es of Rubens have this effect on the spectator, that he feels him- self in nowise disposed to pick out and dwell on his defects. The criticisms which are made on him are, indeed, often unreasonable. His style ought no Belgium. 27. character of rubens. 13 more to be blamed for not having the sublimity of ^lichael Angelo, than Q-sid should be censiu'ed because he is not lite Virgil, '' However, it must be acknowledged that he wanted many excellences which would have perfectly united with his st^'le. Among those we may reckon beaut^r in his female characters ; sometimes, indeed, they make approaches to it ; they ai"C healthy and comely women, but seldom, if ever, possess any degree of ele- gance : the same may be said of his young men and children. His old mer have that sort of dignity which a bushy beard will confer ; but he never pos- sessed a poetical conception of character. In his representations of the highest characters in the Christian or the fabulous world, instead of something above humanity, which might fill the idea which is conceived of such beings, the spec- tator finds little more than mere mortals, such as he meets with eveiy day. *' The incorrectness of Eubens, in regard to his outline, oftener proceeds fiom haste and carelessness than fi'om inability : there are in his gi-eat works, to which he seems to have paid more, paiiicular attention, naked fig-urcs as eminent for their ch'awing as for their colonring. He appears to have entertained a great abhoiTence of the meagre, dry manner of his predecessors, the old German and Flemish painters ; to avoid which, he kept his outline large and flowing : this, carried to an exti-eme, produced that heaviness which is so fi*equently found in his figures. Another defect of this great painter is his inattention to the foldings of his di-apery, especially that of his women ; it is scai'cely ever cast with any choice of skill. Carlo Maratti and Eub(?ns are, in this respect, in opposite extremes : one discovers too much art in the disposition of di*apery, and the other too little. Eubens's drapciy, besides, is not properly historical; the quality of the stuff of which it is composed is too accm-ately distinguished, resembling the manner of Paul Veronese. This drapery is less offensive in Eubens than it would be in many other painters^ as it partly contributes to that richness which is the pecuHar chai'acter of his style, which we do not pretend to set forth as of the most simple and sublime kind. " The difference of the manner of Eubens from that of any other painter before him is in nothing more distinguishable than in his colouring, which is totally different fi-om that of Titian, Correggio, or any of the gi-eat eolourists. The effect of his pictiu-es may be not improperly compai-ed to clusteis of flowers : all his colours appear as clear and as beautiful ; at the same time he has a^^oided that tawdry effect which one would expect such gay colours to produce ; in this respect resemblmg Barocci more than any other painter. ^Tiat was said of an ancient painter may be appHed to those two artists, — that their figm-es look as if they fed upon roses. ^' It woidd be a curious and a profitable study iar a pointer to examine the difference, and the cause of that difference, of effect in the ^,orks of Con-eggio and Eubens, both excellent ia different ways. The difference, prolyably, would be given according to the different habits of the connoisseur : .those who had received their first impressions fi-oni the woi-ks of Eubens would censm-e Cor- reggio as hea^y; and the admirers of Correggio would say Eubens wanted solidity of effect. There is lightness, airiiii'ss, and facility in Eubens, his ad^'o- «ates will urge, and comparatively a laborious heaviness in Correggio, whose admirers wiU. complain of Eabens's manner being careless and unfinished, whilst the works of Correggio are wrought to the highest degree of delicacy j and what may be advanced in favom- of CoiTcggio's breadth of light wiU, by his censurers, be called affecttd and petlantie. It a»ist be observed that we ai*e speaking solely of the manner, the effect of the picture ', and we may conclude, according to the custom in pastoral poetry, by bestowing on each of these illustrious painters a garland, without attributing superiority to cither. " To conclude, — I will venture to repeat, in favoiu- of Eubens, wh^ I have before said in regard to the Dutch school (§ 14), — that those who -oannot se^ the t'xti"aordinary merit of this great painter, either have a narrow eonccj)tion (h. 14 EOUTE 15.— CALAIS TO BRUSSELS. Sect. I. the variety of art, or are led away by the affectation of approving nothing but what comes fi-om the Italian school."- — Sir Joshua Reynolds. Belgium possesses at the present day a School of Licing Painters, whose works have high claims to attention, and may be seen at the yearly exhibitions at Ghent, Antwei-p, Brussels, as well as in the palaces, museums, and churches of the principal towns. The historical pictures of Wappers, de Keyzer, Biefve, Maes, GaUait, Brakelaer, the animals of Yerboekhoven, the woody landscapes of HcUemans, are worthy of being placed by the side of the best productions of any existing school. ROUTES THROUGH BELGIUM. ROUTE 15. CAL.US TO BRUSSELS BV LILLE. — RAIL- WAV. Many persons, especially in the winter season, prefer the shortest sea-voyage between England and the continent, on which account the following route is given here. Besides which, Calais is now connected by railway with Brus- sels and all the princii)al towns of Belgium. Calais. — Ian: H. Dessin; good. The bedroom in which the author of the "Sentimental Jom-ney" slept is still marked Sterne's Room ; and that occupied by Sir "Walter Scott is also ticketed with his respected name. — QuHlac's Hotel ; good. — Ilotel Mcurico (no connection with the house of the same name at Paris) ; tolerably clean and good. The preference usually given to Boulogne has diminished the custom of the hotel-keepers, and they have sought to indemnify themselves by an increase of prices. Dat>i on Carriages. — Every carnage taken into France, unaecompanied by a certificate of it.s being of French nianufacture, is sul'ject to a deposit of a third of its value ; if the can-iage is re-exported within 3 years, f of the deposit is repaid. This repayment may be obtained at any of the frontier cus- tom-houses. If the carriage is not new, and is laden with luggage, and accompanied by the owner, and is to b(^ taken out of the coimtiy within 6 daj^s, it is exempted from this deposit of a third of its value. This remis- sion, however, can only be obtained on condition that some respectable French hpjiseholder will guarantee that the caniage shall quit France ^Tithin the 6 days specified. The landlord of the inn at which the traveller puts up in Calais will effect this ariangement for him ; but as he subjects himself to a penalty of a veiy large amount in case the above condition is not com- plied with, he requires the ti'aveller to sign an luidertaking to indemnify and hold him harmless in case of failure. An order to procure tliis remission of duty, issued by the French custom- house, and called " acquit a caution," costs 5 fr., and must be delivered up on passing the French frontier. In going from Calais to Brussels by railway this must be done either at Lille or Valen- ciennes. 10 fiancs is the common charge for landing or shipping a 4- wheeled caniage. 3 francs a head is the regulation charge when passengers are landed in a boat. Calais has 12,5i)8 Inhab. ; it is a fortress of the 2nd class, situated in a barren and unpicturesque district, with sandhills raised by the wind and the sea on the one side, and morasses on the other, contributing considerably to its militar}' strength, but by no means to the beauty of its position. AVithin the last few years it has been re-for- tified, and the strength of its works greatly increased, especially to the sea- ward. An English traveller of the time of James I. described it as " a beggarly, extorting town ; monstrous dear and sluttish." In the opinion of many this description holds good doA\-n to the present time. The harb'iur, lately improved and lengthened by -S'i yards since 1830, is not so deep as that >e[giam. ROUTE 15. CALAIS. 15 of Boulogne. Passengers must some- times land in boats, and wait for their baggage until the steamer can enter.. Except to an Enghshman setting his foot for the first time on the Continent, to whom eveiything is novel, Calais, has little that is remarkable to show. After an hoiu- or two it becomes tire- some, and a traveller will do well to quit it as soon as he has cleared his baggage from the custom-house, and procm-ed the signature of the police to his passport, which, if he be pressed for time, will be done almost at any hour of the day or night, so as not to delay his departure. It is necessary to be aware of this, as the commissionaires of the hotels will sometunes endeavour to detain a stranger, under pretence of not being able to get his passport signed. The owner of the passport must repair to the pohce-ofSce himself to have it vise. Travellers landing at a French port, and not intending to go to Paris, but merely passing thi-ough the country, as on the route to Ostend or Bru'^sels, ai-e not compelled to exchange their pass- port for a passe provisoii'o, but merely i-equire the vise of the authorities at Calais to aUow them to proceed on their journey. Persons unpro\ided with a passport may procure one from the British Consul for 4.s. 6f/. The Pier of Calais is an agreeable promenade, nearly ~ m. long. It is decorated with a pillar, raised to com- memorate the return of Louis XVIII. to France, which originally bore this insciiption :— " Le 24 Avril, "l814, S. M. Louis XVIII. debarqua A-is-a-vis de cette colonne, et fut enfin rendu a I'amour des Fran^ais ; pour enperpetuer le souvenir la ville de Calais a eleve ce monument." " As an additional means of pci-petuating this remembrance, a brazen plate had been let into the j pavement upon the precise spot where his foot first touched the soil. It was the left; and an English traveller noticed it in his journal as a sinistrous omen, that when Louis le Desu'e, after his exile, stepped on France, he did not put the right foot foremost." — Quart. Bee. At the last revolution but one, viz. that of July, 1830, both inscrii)tion and footmark were obliterated, and the j pillar now stands a monument merely j of the mutability of French opinions and dynasties, I The principal 'gate leading fr-om the sea-side into the town is that ngui-ed by Hogarth in his well-known pictured It was built by Cardinal EicheHeu, 1635. No one needs to be reminded of the interesting incidents of the siege of Calais by Edward III., which lasted 11 months, and of the heroic devotion of Eustace de St. Pierre and his 5 companions. Few, however, are aware that the heroes of Calais not only went unrewarded by their own king and countrymen, but were compelled to beg their bread in misery through France. Calais remained in the hands of the English more than 200 years, from 1347 to 1558, when it was taken by the Duke de Guise. It was the last reKc of the Gallic dominions of the Plautagenets, which, at one time, com- prehended the half of France. Calais was dear to the English as the piize of the valour of their forefathers, rather than from any real value it possessed. The English traveller should look at the Hotel de Guise, originally the guild- hall of the mayor and aldermen of the " Staple of Wool," established here bv Edwai-d III., 1363. It has a good gateway and other vestiges of English Tudor architecture. Hemy YIII. used to lodge in it. In the great Market Place stands the ff6tel tfe Ville (Town Hall). In it are situated the PoKce Offices. In front of it are placed busts of St. Pierre ; of the Due de Guise, sumamed le Bala- fi-e, who conquered the town from the English ; and of the Cardinal de Eiche- licu, who built the citadel on the W. of the town ; above it rises a bel&y", containing the chimes. In the same square is a tower, which serves as a landmai'k by day and a lighthouse by night, to point out to sailors the en^ trance of the harbour. The priacipal Church was built at the time when the English were masters of Calais. It is a fine chui'ch, in the early- Gothic style ; a modem circular chapel has been thrown out behind the choir. It is surmounted by a stately tower and short steeple, which merit notice. 16 ROUTE 15. CALAIS TO LILLE. Sect. I. Lady Hamilton (Nelson's Emma) is buried in the public cemetery outside the town, on the road to Boulogne ; she died here in great misery. The vjctlls round the town and the pier are admirable promenades, and com- m,and a distinct view of the white cliffs of England — a tantalizing sight to the English exiles, fugitives from creditors or compelled from other causes to leave their homes ; a numerous class both here and at Boulogne. There are many of our countrj'men besides, who reside merely for the puri)6se of economising ; so that the place is half Anglicised, and our language is generally spoken. The number of English residents in and about Calais amounted, before the French revolution of 1848, to nearly 5000. There is an English chapel. Rue dcs Pretres; ser^dce on Sundays, 11 .A.M. and 3 p.m. There is a small theatre here. Calais is one of those places where the fraternity of Couriers have a station. Travellers should be cautioned not to engage one unless the landlord of an hotel, or some other respectable and responsible person, give him a character derived from personal knowledge ; as many of these couriers remain at Calais only because some pre\ious act of nxis- conduct prevents them showing their faces on the opposite side of the Channel. The inn-yards are generally well stocked with caniages to be let or sold; they are mostly old and rickety vehicles, and the hire demanded for them nearly equals that for which an excellent car- riage may be obtained in London. Steamboats go twice every day to Dover, varying their departure to suit the time of high water. The new Eng- lish steamers usually make the voyage in aboiit 2 hours. St English reside here. En/jlish Chapel, Rue du Bon Pastern- ; Sunday, 11 and 3. 10-3 Eblinghem Stat. 10 Hazebrouck Stat. Here the branch from Dunkii-k comes in, and a railway is to be carried hence through Bethime to Fampoux, a subm-b of AiTas (54 kilom.). 6 • 3 Strazeele Stat. 8*6 Bailleul Stat.— /nu: Faucon. 1 • 9 Steenwerck Stat. 9 • 5 Annentieres Stat, 7 • 1 Perenchies Stat. 9-3 Lille (Flem. PwUSSEl) Stat.— Inns : H. de I'Emope — de BeUe%'ue — du Commerce, 6. This city, of 63,693 inhab., is im- portant both as a fortress of the first order for its sfrength, forming the cen- tral point of the defence of France on her northern frontier, and as a populous and industrious seat of manufacture, ranldng seventh among the cities of France. It is chef-lieu of the Dept. du Nord, and was formerly capital of French Flanders. The streams of the Haute and Basse Deiile traverse the town, fill- ing its moats and turning the wheels of its mills ; and they are connected by a canal, by mean^ of which the country j for 1^ m. around the walls can be laid iinder water. There are no fine public buildings ! proportioned to the size and wealth of I the city ; jts monuments have been ' levelled by bomb-sheUs, and its objects i of interest for the passing traveller, I unless he be a militaiy man, are few, as ; may be judged of by the following \ enimieration : — Its CitaJel is considered a mastei-piece I of the skill of Yauban, who was go- j vernor of it for many yeai-s. It is a i regular pentagon, furnished with aU the j accessories which engineering skill can j suggest, especially since the siege of j 1792, and so strong, because commanded 1 by no point, and capable of isolation by I breaking the canal dykes, and filling its I -w-ide moats, that it is deemed impreg- j nable, A gi-eat deal of misery, how- I ever, and enormous destniction of pro- : perty and injury to agiiciLlture, woidd 1 follow an inundation. The citadel is ' separated fr-om the town by the Espla- j node, a wide diilling-gToimd, wbich j serves also as a public walk, being planted I with trees and ti-a versed by the canal. I Lille was captm-ed from the Spaniards ■ by Louis XIV. in 1667. At diifcrent j periods, and under different masters, it j has stood seven distinct sieges ; the one i most memorable for an Englishman was I that by the allied ai-mies of Marlborough and Eugene, in 1708, of three months' : dm-ation, during which the war was not I merely waged above ground, but the j most bloody combats were fought below ! the sm-face between the minei-s of the I opposite armies, each endeavoiuing to I sap and undennine the galleries of his j opponent. Boufilers, the French com- i mander, after a masterly defence, was I compelled to capitulate, but upon the \ most honourable tenns, The Hdtel de ViUe was anciently the I palace of the Dukes of Bm-gundy. It was built by Jean Sans-Peiu', 143h, and inhabited by the Empr. Charles V. It I is a quaint rather than a handsome edi- I fice, in the late Gothic style, but it ha? I a prettily groined staircase in one of its tom-eUes, and a chapel. One division of the building, appropriated to a sckool of art, contains a most interesting and valuable collection of drawings hj old c3 18 ROUTE 15^ — LILLE TO BRUSSELS. Sect. I. '/aasters, including 44 by Raphael, others | by Jiasaccio, Fra Bartolorneo, and a few ! (architectural) by Jlich. Angela, well T>-orthy the inspection of all who take j an interest in art. They wore left i to the city by Che^T. Wicar. Though \ not publicly shown except on Sunday, i the Custode will admit ai-tists and stran- | gers of respectability at other times. The to's^Ti also possesses a Musee, where, among a number of bad pictures, is one by JRubens, St. Catherine rescued | from the "N^Tieel of MartjTdom, painted | for a church in the tov,Ti. St. Cecilia and St. Francis are by Arnold de Vnez ( (a native artist of considerable merit, j bom 1642) ; and there is a series of curious old portraits of the Dukes of Burgundy and Counts of Flanders. The principal Clvrch (St. Maurice) is j in the Gothic style of the 16th cent. [ resting on slender piers, but is not veiy remarkable. \ The huge storeho^ises for corn, at the extremity of the Rue Roj^ale, a sti-eet nearly a mile long, deserve notice. There are some very handsome shops in : the Rue Ksq>(iri/uji.se. The tall chimneys of numerous mills, j even within the walls, announce the ■ active industry which is working here, ' and show the imusual combination of a ! foi-ti-ess and manufacturing town ; while [ the country around, and indeed a large ! part of the Departement du Xord, is like a hive in population and activity, not unworthy of being compared with parts of Lancashire and the West Riding. The chief maniifactnre is that of fia.f (which is cultivated in the vicinity), and is spun into ordinaiy thread, and t%visted to form the kind called Lille thread, by old-fashioned machines moved by the hand ; besides which much linen is woven here. In the spinning of cot- ton Lille is a formidable rival of the English. The making of tull(?3 and cotton lace has fallen off. The extrac- tion of oils from colza and the seeds of rape, poppies, linseed, &c., and the manufactxu-e of sugar from beetroot, are very important, ha^'ing given a great impulse to agriculture, as well as em- ploying many hands and hundreds of windmills. Lille to Brussels (a), 162kilom. = lOlj Eng. m. 12 Seclin Stat. 8 Car^dn Stat. 6 Leforest Stat. DonaiStat. {Inns: H. de Flandres — du Commerce) is a town of 17,501 Inhab., surrounded by old fortifications, seated on the Scarpe, defended by a detached fort about \^ia. distant on the 1. bank. It is the least thiiving place in the Dept. du Nord, and appears to be falling off in population ; and though it covers more ground than Lille, does not contain half as many inhab. Like the Flemish towns, it has a picturesque Beffi'oi in its market-place, rising above the Gothic Hotel de Ville, built at the end of the loth cent. It possesses a library of 30,000 vols., a collection of pictiu-es, and contains one of the 3 royal camion foim- dries in France. The college or seminaiy of Douai, foimded in 1569 by an Englishman, Cardinal Allen, has educated Roman Catholic priests for England and Ireland almost continuously from that time. O'Connell studied here. There is a con- siderable trade in flax here. Ever)' year, in the early part of July, a cuiious procession parades the streets of Douai, consisting of a giant of osier, who is called Geant Gay ant, dressed in armour, 30 ft. high, attended by his wife and fomily, of proportionate size ; the giant doll is moved by 8 men enclosed within it. Montigny Stat. Sormain Stat. Wallers Stat. Raismes Stat. Valenciennes Stat, Yalenciexxes (//IMS : La Poste ; H. des Princes, very good, comfortable, and well furnished — /. M. ; Le Canard ; La Biche ; La Cour de France), a for- ti'css of the second class, with a strong citadel constructed by Yaiiban, is a dark and ill-built to-mi, lying on the Schelde, and has a population of 22,.ni Halls in the Nether- lands, though small in size, built 1525- I 30, in the flamboyant Gothic st^'le. In j front runs an arcade of great elegance, j supporting a balcony, above which rises a tower not unlike that of Brussels, but smaller. The entrance to the Coimcil chamber is a beautiful specimen of wood carving in the style of the Renaissance, executed 1530, by Paul van der Schel- den. The Ch. of St. Walbnrga is also handsome, possesses an Assumption by Grayer, and the tomb of Claude Jalon : A\ Danie de Pamele is of elegant Gothic (date 1239), and contains 2 old monu- ments. The tower called het Saecksen, and the bridge of the Porte d'Eyne, are very ancient structures. This is the birthplace of MargaretDuchess of PaiTaa, governess of the Low Countiies under Philip II., and natural daughter oi' Charles V,, by Margaret van Geest, a lady of this place. The battle of Oude-- narde, fought under its walls in 1 708, was gained over the French by the English, in a great measm-e through the personal prowess and exertions of Marl- borough.] 5 Nazareth Stat. 12 Ghent Stat, Hence to Mechlin, see Rte, 21 ; and for the Railway from Mechlin to Brussels, see Rte. 23. Lille to Brussels (c), 134 kilom. ::= 84 Eng. m, 9 Roubaix Stat. i ^ 3 Tourcoing Stat. I See previous 5 Mouscron Stat. ) ^^^^- "J- Travellers from Lille to Tom-nay, and vice versa, here change carriages. Nechin Stat. Templeuve Stat, Tournay Stat. (Flem. Doornik). 171718:11. de rimperatrice, clean; Singe d'Or, good. A fortified town of 33,000 Inhab., on the Schelde, whose banks are faced with masonry, so as to contract the river into a navigable channel, and 20 ROUTE 15. — LILLE TO BRUSSP:LS. TOUENAY. Sect. I. form at the same time handsome C2uais irs de lis, as sym- bols of the imperial dignity. St. Quentin, in the Grand Place is a very elegant Church in the Romanesque style. The ancient Convent of St. ^Martin, with its Gothic chm-ch, is now converted into an Hotel de I 'ilk ; and adjoining it is a shady walk called the Park, and the Bo- tanic Garden. There are some inter- esting specuuens of domestic architec- ture in Toiu-nay. See § 25, p. 8. Perkin Warbeck, the pretender to the throne of Hcmy VII., who gave himself out as one of the princes nmr- dered in the Tower, was, by his ovra i confession, the son of a Jew of Tour- I nay. ! At Yau5, on the banks of the Schelde, I 2 m. from Toumay, is a squai'e stmcture with tun-ets in the corners, probably of I Roman origin. j The valley of the Schelde aroimd ! Toumay is very fertile, producing much j com. Lime is foimd in abimdance : it I is quarried in many places and exported 1 far and wide. [ [About 5 m. S.E. of Toumay, on ! the rt. of the post-road to Ath, after I passing the ^-iUage of Bourquembrays, I lies the battle-field of Fonteno;/, where [ the English imder the Duke of Cumber- land, with the Dutch and Austrians, were defeated in 1 745 by the French under Marshal Saxe, who was at the time so ill as to be unable to sit on horseback or to wear annoiu-, and was therefore earned in a litter. Though the result was unfavourable to the Eng- ! Hsh, the skill sho"«Ti by their com- : manders and the braveiy of the troops . were highly creditable to them. The foitone of the day was in some measiu'e I decided by the bravery of the Irish bat- j talions in the pay of France, who were : diiven abroad at that period by the poli- : tical state of Ireland.] i Bary Stat. j Leuze Stat. A town of 5000 inhab. j Eigne Stat. Atu Stat. — (funs : Cigne, good ; Paon I d' Or.)— Ath on the Dender, with 8500 I inhab., is a foiti'ess upon which Yauban I employed his utmost skill, and for which, ' since the battle of "Waterloo, modem art has done all that is practicable to in- crease its strength. It is a fiomishing manufactm-ing town. The principal buildings are the Hotel de Ville, a stnxctiu-e of the time of the Archduke Albert (1600), and the Church of St. JuHen, founded in 1393, desti-oyed by lightning, except its E. end, in 1817, and since rebuilt, biit without its taU steeple. The most ancient moniiment in the town is a tower called Tour du Burbard, which probably dates from 1150. About 6 m. from Ath, not far off the road, is Behril, the patrimonial estate of the Prince de Eigne, celebrated as a dip- 22 ROUTE 16. — CALAIS TO COURTRAI. Sect. I. gives in his letteis a long description of his countiy seat and gardens : they were laid out in the formal French taste by le Notre, and excited the adnih-ation of Delille, who mentions this spot in his poem " Les Jardins," as— " Beloeil tout a la fois magnifique et cham- petre." Both Voltaire and Delille visited the Prince in his retirement here. The Castle is an ancient Gothic edifice, hnilt in 1146, siuTOunded by water. It con- tains some interesting historical relics and works of art ; paintings by Diirer, Holbein, Van Dyk, Velazquez, L. da Vinci, Salv. Rosa ; also a collection of fii-earms, from then- invention. The j number and length of the avenues and j high hornbeam hedges, with windows I cut in them, intersecting the groiinds in all directions, fonn the singular and characteristic featiu-e of the Park. The cultivation of the mulberry and silkwoi-m has been introduced at Meslin I'Eveque, near Ath, apparently with good success. An extensive establish- ment (Magnanerie) was fanned here by the government of the King of Holland. 2i posts from Ath, on the post-road to Brussels, is Enghien^ a toTsii of .3680 inhab. It was an ancient possession of the houses of Luxemburg and Bourbon, but was sold by Heniy IV., King of France, to the Duke d'Aremberg, in 1607, and still remains in the possession of his family. The chateau of the Diike was destroyed at the French Re- volution ; but the beautiful park and gardens deserve notice. They served, it is said, as a model for the famous gardens of Versailles, and are laid out in the same formal style, with avenues, temples, statues, canals, basins of water, &c. 7 avenues of beech and horse- chestnuts diverge from a temple in the park. A fine conservatory has recently been added. Maffles Stat. Attre Stat. Bnigelette Stat. Lens Stat. Jurbise Stat. Here the railway joins that from Valenciennes and Mons. For the rest of the route to Brussels see Rtc. 32. ROUTE 16. CALAIS TO COURTRAI, BY DUNKIRK AND YPRES. 58 kilom. and 13 Belg. posts = 83 Eng. m. Road good, but paved. Hallway by LiUe to DunJcirk. 24 Gravelines. A fortress and deso- late-looking small town, with grass growing in its streets : it has 3000 Inhab. " It is," to use the words of an old wi-iter, " very strong, by reason that they can drown it roimd in 4 hours, so as no land shall be within a mile of it." It is surrounded by a plain, once a vast marsh, below the level of the sea, nearly 20 m. long by 12 broad: almost all this can be laid under water in case of need, to ward off a hostile invasion on this side of France. At present this district siqjports a population of 60,000. It is protected from the sea by the dunes or sand-hills, and is gradually being drained by its inhabitants. It would cost the arrondissement 10 millions of francs to repair the damage caused by admitting the waters upon the land. The Empr. Charles V. here paid a \'isit to Henry VIII. on his retvun from his interview with Francis I. at the Field of the Cloth of Gold, 1520. Beyond Gravelines the road is paved. 20 Dunkirk ; Fr. Dunkerque {rnns: H. de Flandres, very good and not dear ; table-d'hote at 6, good, 2^ fr. ; breakfast with eggs, 1 fr. 75 c. ; — Chaperon Rouge) ; a considerable fortified town and seaport, with 25,400 Inhab. Large sums have been expended in endeavoiu'- ing to clear the mouth of the harbour from the bar of sand which obstructs it, by means of basins and sluices, which are filled by the flowing of the tide and dis- charged at low water, so as to scour a channel through the mud. They are said to have failed in producing the results anticipated. Dunkirk, nevertheless, is the l)est harbour which France possesses in the N. Sea, and ranks fourth in the value of its exports and imports of all the seaports in the kingdom. It serves Belgium. route 16. — Calais to courtrai. du^sKirk. 23 as the outlet for the manufacturing dis- trict of the Dept. du Xord. " It is one of the cleanest towns in France, with wide streets, well paved — living cheap — baths veiy good." — D. C. The Qnai^ usually crowded with ves- sels, and Pier extending far into the sea, are worth seeing ; so is the Corinthian portico of the church of St. Eloi, a handsome hut most incongruous frontis- piece to a Gothic building : in front of it is a fine detached Gothic belfry con- taining the chimes. The interior of the church is fine : it has a double side aisle. There is an English Protestant church, Eue des Soeui's Blanches — a proof of the number of British residents. A statue of Jean Bart, a famoiis sea- captain, bom here (temp. Louis XIV.), stands in the gi-eat market-place. Dunkirk owes its origin to a chapel built by St. Eloi in the 7th cent, among the dunes or sand-hiUs, and thence comes its name — " Church of the Dimes." Here was equipped the Flemish division of the Spanish armada, designed to combine in the invasion of England imder the command of the Prince of Pai-ma ; but that skilful general, per- haps foreseeing the residt, refi-ained from putting out to sea. Dunkirk, after hav- ing been hartUy won by the English, under Oliver Cromwell, from the Spa- niards, 1658, was basely sold by Charles II. to Louis XIY. for 6 millions of Hatcs, in 1662. By the Treaty of Utrecht (1715) the French were compelled to demolish the town and fortifications ; and an English commissioner was actually sent hither to ascertain that the stipulations of the treaty were complied with to the letter — a source of deep humiliation to French pride, but of more immediate misery to , the poor inhabitants. The port and fortifications were not restored and re- built until 1740. The coimtry around is little better than a dreaiy waste of sand-hills thro'ss'n ; up by the wind. It was in the neigh- bom'hood of them that Tmxnne defeated, ' in 1658, the Spanish army under Don j John of Austria and the great Conde, j who had sided at that time with the enemies of France, in the battle of the Dimes. The siege of the town had been commenced by Mazarin, at the dictation of Cromwell, whose fleet blockaded it by sea. The Spaniards, unprovided with ar- tillery, advanced to meet the French, by marching close to the sea. Conde remonsti-ated in vain with Don John against a measure so perilous : '' Yous ne connaissez pas M. de Turenne," said he ; " on ne fait pas impunement des f antes devant im si grand homme :" and just as the action began he turned to the yoimg Duke of Gloucester and asked if he had ever been in a battle be- fore. " Xo," answered the Duke. " Then you will see one lost in hfdf an hour." The action was commenced by 6000 English soldiers of CromweU, command- ed by Lockhart, his ambassador, who formed the left wing of the French aimy, and distinguished themselves eminently : their charge earned ever^-thing before it, and contributed not a little to the result. The Duke of York (aftei-wards James II.) fought in the opposite ranks, at the head of a regiment of cavaliers ; and it was from them that their fellow- countiyuien suffered most. The Spani- ards lost 4000 men, and Dunkirk siuTen- dered 10 days after in consequence of this defeat. There is a canal fi'om Dunkii'k to Fiu-nes, Ostend, and Bruges, ti'a versed daily by a barge. Diligences daily to Ostend. Steamers to London and Hambiu'g eveiy Satur- day; to St. Petersbm-g the 1st and 15th of everv month. A railway connects Dimkii'k with the line from Calais to Lille and Paris at Hazebrouck, passing by Berg-ues and Cassel. Its length is 41 kilom ^i5| m. 8 Bergues Stat, (sec below). 9 Esquelbecq Stat. 7 Ameeke Stat. 7 Cassel Stat. — (//i/w : H. du Sauvage; II. du Lion Blanc.) It is woith while, in fine weather, to stop here for a short time to enjoy tlie view. Cassel is an ancient town of 4234 Inhab. Here at length the country becomes more inter- esting. Cassel is most agreeably situ- ated, commanding one of the most ex- tensive views in Europe. Although it 24 ROUTE 16. BERGUES. YPRES. Sect. I. has no striking features, it cannot be contemplated without deep interest, as exhibiting on a clear day an unusually extensive tract of highly cultivated and productive country. Its most remark- able feature is that the horizon is almost ahvays equally distant in every direc- tion, as no rising ground intennipts the sight. It extends over the flat and fer- tile plains of Flanders and as far as the white cliffs of England, into 3 different kingdoms ; includes 32 towns and 100 villages. St. Omer, Dunkirk, Yypres, Ostend, and the beautiful steeple of Hazebrouck are the most prominent ob- jects : no fi'esh water is visible in this vast expanse. Mount Cassel is only 515 Eng. ft. high. It was one of the principal signal stations of the great trigonometrical sm-vey canied on dui'ing the reign of Xapoleon. A small map of the countiy visible may be piirchased on the spot for 20 sous. The gardens and grounds of the late General Yandamme, who was bom here, are commonly shown to strangers, and are verj- tastefully laid out. The stable is worthy of remark on account of its size. " Flemish is the general language of the entire population in the N. parts of the Dept. du Xord. It is spoken at Cassel, and as far as Watel." — G. C. L. 10 Hazebrouck Stat. (See Ete. 15.) Route to Coiu*trai continued by rail- ■w'ay to — Bergues {[mi : Poste ; small but cheap), a small and poor fortified towTi of 60u0 Inhab., situated on an elevation suiTovmdcd by marshes and salt lakes, called Moeren, formerly waste and insa- lubrious ; but having been drained with- in a few years, by the constiiiction of hydraiilic works, they are now becom- ing more productive and less unwhole- some. Though only a fortress of the third class, the possession of Bergues has been deemed of such consequence in eveiy war that it has been 8 times taken and retaken and 9 times piUaged in the coiu-se of 8 centuries. It has a pictur- esque beffroi 150 ft. high, A vcrj" im- portant corn-market is held here every Monday. The gates arc closed at 10, 1 after which neither ingress nor egress is allowed. The French fi'ontier and custom-house is reached at Oest Cappel, Here the " acquit a caution" (p. 14) must be de- j livered up. The country^ through which the road passes is most fertile, enclosed with ; hedges and abounding in wood, which i gives it, though flat, a pleasing English ! character. Large quantities of hops are cultivated in this district. i 1~ Rousbruggc, a Belgian village. I 2| Ypres (Luis : la Chatellenie ; Tete d'Or), a fortified town of 15,750 Inhab., in a fertile plain. The marshes around it have, for the most part, been draiiK.'d, and it is consequently less xm- ; healthy than formerly. The kind of i linen called diaper^ that is, d' Ypres, was made here. The English word comes from the cori-upt pronunciation j of the name of the place where it was manufactured. Thread is the principal , article made here at present. The extent and prosperity of its manu- I factui-es had raised the number of its I inhab. to 200,000 souls in the 14th cent., 1 at which period 4000 looms were con- stantly at work. I Its importance has long since departed, i and the only relic which remains to ^ prove its former greatness is the To>rn ; House, called Les Halles, in the great ! market-place, a building of prodigious j size, long and low, and in a rich style of Gothic architectui-e, sm-mounted by a I stately helfrij tower in the centre. It i was begun in 1230, and continued till j 1342. The E. end, supported on pillars, was added in 1730. It was, in fact, a j cloth haU, devoted to the service of the I cloth manufacturers in olden times. Close to it is the Cathedral of St. Martin, a Gothic edifice of considerable size, but not of great beauty. It contains a carved j pulpit, and a picture representing, in compartments, the story of the Fall of Man, attributed to Yan Eyck, but bear- ing the date 1525, and probably by Peter Forbtis. It is well coloured, and a faith- ful representation of the human form, but without grace or beauty. A flat stone in the choir marks the tomb of Jansen, founder of the sect called Jansenists, so long persecuted by the Belgium. ROUTE 16. — COURTRAI. BATTLE OF SPURS. 25 Jesuits. He was Bishop of Yprcs, and died 1683. \ 2\ Menin {Tnn : Faucon), on the Lys. : Another frontier foi-tress, with 7640 in- > hab., ver\'dismalandlifeles3. Itliesquite \ close to the boundary line of France, | which actually touches the glacis. i On the way to Courtrai is the village of Bisseghem, near which the Duke of 1 York was defeated in 1793 by General Souham, and lost 65 pieces of cannon. Courtrai (Flemish Kortrvk). Lim: , Postc, called also the Damier, good , and cheap ; table-d'hote at 12^ : Lion d'Or — both in the Great Place. A manufactiuing town of 21,500 in- ; hah., on the Lys, remarkable for its ; cleanliness and for the table damask and other linen made here, which is sent to all parts of Eiu-ope. An immense quan- tity of flax of xery fine quality is culti- ; vated in the siuroimding plain, and suppKes not only the manufactories of \ the town, but many of the mai'kets of Europe. There are large bleaching- groimds in the neighboui'hood, the waters of the Lys being supposed to possess qualities favourable for bleaching as well as for the steeping of flax. The i fii-st Flemish cloth manufacture was established here in 1260. j The principal buildings are the Hotel de Ville in the market-place, a Gothic I edifice, built 1526, but defaced by a [ modem front. It contains two very | singular carved chimney-pieces, con- taining figures of the Virtues and Vices, bas-reliefs of subjects relating to the \ municipal and judicial destination of the j building, and to events in the early his- j toiy of the town, including a procession of women on horseback, holding a ban- I ncr in one hand and a dagger in the j other. Many of them may be styled | caricatures in bas-relief. They bear the 1 date of 1587 and 1595. The statues of j Charles V., and of the Archduke Albert and Archduchess Isabella, occupy con- | spicuous places. The Cluirch of Notre Dame is a Gothic I edifice, founded 1238 by Baldwin Count ! of Flanders and Empr. of Constantinople, \ but modernised, except a small portion j on one side, and lined with marble. It | contains behind the high altar a cele- brated painting by Vandjk, the Raising of the Cross. The drawing is bold and powerfid, reminding one of Rubens ; only the colouring is inferior to his in freshness. The current stoiy, that the canons of the church, being dissatisfied with the pictm-e when sent home, abused it before the artist's face, and that he in consequence refused to paint any others for them after they had con- fessed their eri'or, is rendered doubtfiil by the discovery at Ghent of Vandyk's autogi'aph letter, acknowledging with thanks the receipt of the money for the painting, as well as of some goffres, a thin sweet cake, for which Courtrai is still celebrated, presented to him by the canons. In St. Martia's Ch., X. side of choir, is a beautiful tabernacle or shiine of carved stonework, in the richest Gothic style — date probably end of the 15th cent. — for holding the sacrament. Courtrai once boasted of a ciu'ious clock, in which 2 figiu'es, male and female, came out alternately to strike the hours. This gave rise to the saying applied to a husband and wife who are never seen together : "lis s'accordent eomme Jac- quemart (i. e. Jaken (Jem) op do markt) et sa femme." Charles the Bold carried it to Dijon in 1382. The old bridge and its Flemish flank- ing towers make a picturesque gTOup. Under the walls of Courtrai was fought the famous Battle of Spurs, 1302 (not to be confounded with the " Battle of Spin-s " in which Henry VIIL put the French chivaby to flight, 1513), gained by an army of 2G,0U0 Flemings, prin- cipally weavei's of Ghent and Bruges, under the Count de Namur, over the French under the Count d'Artois, in which the latter was slain, and with him 1200 knights, while several thou- sand common soldiers were left dead on the field, 700 gilt spurs (an ornament worn only by the French nobility) were gathered on the field from the dead, and hung up as a trophy in the church of the convent of Groenangen, now de- stroyed : from this ciroumstanee the battle receives its name. A small cha- pel, built 1831, on the rt. of the road, a little way outside the Poi-te de Gand, marks the centre of the battle-field. Jiailroads to Ghent and to Lille (see R. 15), with a branch to Toumay (p. 26 ROUTE 17. CALAIS TO BRUGES. Sect. 1. 19), turning off at Mouscron, where the Belgian Custom-house is. EOUTE 17. CALAIS TO OSTEXD OR BRUGES. 66 kilom. to Fumes, thence to Ostend 4\ Belg. posts; Fm-nes to Bru- ges 5f Belg. posts; Calais to Ostend 61| Eng. m., to Bmges 69 m. A very uninteresting route : the road is improved, but 2 leagues of sand near the frontier, a di'ive of 2:^ hrs., remain unpaved. 24 Gravelines. ) o -n. i ^ 20 Dunkirk. | ^'' ^^'- ^^- A \vell-a])pointed omnibus runs daily from Dunkirk to Ostend, in direct com- munication with the railway trains, in 5 hrs. Avoid the trekschnit from Dun- kirk to Ostend. The nearest way from Dunkirk to Fumes, when the state of the tide per- mits, is across the sands by the sea-side ; but they are sometimes quick. At the extremity of the sands, about 4 m. from Fumes, is the boundary of France and Belgium, and the station of the custom- house. 22 Fumes (Flemish, Yeuren). A sickly town, owing to the malaria from the smrounding marshes — 4600 Inhab. A gi'eat part of the linen manufactured in Belgium is sold here at lai'ge fau's held three times a year. The portion of the Abbey of St. Wille- brod which escaped the ravages of the French Ilcvolution is ciu'ious. The choir is eutu-e and fine, resembling that of the Dom at Cologne, though on a smaller scale, and less ornamented. It contains an image of the Virgin, which annually works a great many miracles, and her shrine is thickly fumishcd with votive offerings in consequence. The Hotel da Vide is a Gothic building, pro- fusely ornamented with cannings. [At Dixmude, about 8 m. E. of Fiir- nes, is a fine and large Gothic church, containing a stone Boodscrcen of most elaborate and beautiful workmanship, in an excessively florid (flamboyant) style, coiTcsponding, though not identi- cal, with our Tudor architectui*e. Over the high altar hangs a chef-d'o5uvre of JoJ-daeiis, the Adoration of the Magi.] The direct road from Fumes to Os- ; tend is a long stage of 4^ posts by • Nieiiwport, a strong fortress, memorable j for the victory gained on the sand-hills ! outside its walls at Westende, by Prince I Maurice of Nassau, in 1600, over the I Spaniards. His brother. Prince Fre- deric Henry, then only 15, and several yoimg English noblemen, led on by Sir Francis and Horace Vere, served under him. When the action was about to commence, Maurice, who foresaw that it would be a bloody engagement, and had made up his mind to conquer or perish, recommended the youthful band to return to Ostend and reserve them- selves for some other occasion. They scorned to accept the suggestion, and determined to share all the perils of the contest. In the first onset Sir Francis Vere was desperately wounded, and the English volunteers suffered severely, though they gave an eminent example of corn-age. The good generalship of I Prince Maurice was never more con- ! spicuous than on that day, and the I arms of the patriots were eventually I triumphant. i As there is nothing at all to see at ; Ostend, ti-avcllers had better make di- j rectly for Bmges by Ghistelles, by I which they will be gainers in time and i distance. ' .3^ GhisteUes. This is a pretty vil- lage, named from the stable or stud of the Counts of Flanders, which was situated here, attached to the old Castle, slight remains of which still exist. In the neighbom-hood is a nunneiy and Church, containing the monmnent of St. Godaliece, wife of Bertulf Lord of Ghistelles, in the 11th cent., who was strangled by her husband through jealousy, and is now worshipped as a saint. Her bones lie in a shrine of brass, before which a lamp bums night and day. Above her altar is a group of 3 figures, as large as life, representing the murder. 2\ Bruges. See Rte. 21. ROUTE 18. LONDON TO ANTWERP BY THE SCIIELDF. About 210 m. A Belgian and 2 Eng- lish steamers go from London every r.OUTE 18. — LONDON' TO ANTWERP. WALCHEREN. 21 Siin. and Tliurs. ; from Antwerp every I Sim. and Wed. Fares : chief cabin, ' 21. 2s.; second cabin, 1/. 12s. Qd.; a I carriage, U. ; and in returning much | less. The voyage occupies from 20 ' to 24 hrs., 7 of which are taken up in descending the Thames and 6 in as- cending the Schelde. The return pas- sage is usually shorter. \ The course from the Thames to the Schelde is almost a straight line. It was the situation of the Schelde, immediately opposite the mouth of the English river and the port of London, that caught the attention of Xapoleon, who saw what advantageous use might be made of such a harbour- to annoy the EngHsh in war or rival them in commerce. On entering the mouth of the river called the Hond, or West Schelde, the land on the 1. hand is "Walcheren, the largest of the 9 islands which fonn the province of Zealand, or Zeeland {Sea land). The district is most appropriately named, since the greater part of it lies many feet below the level of the sea ; it may, therefore, truly be said to appertain naturally to that element. The isles of Zealand, separated from one another by the different branches of the Schelde, are protected from the ini'oads of the ocean, partly by natui-al sand-banks or dunes (§ 12), partly by enomious dykes ^ or sea-walls (§9), which measure more than 300 m. in extent, and cost annu- : ally more than 2 niillions of florins to keep them in repair. Of the great dyke at "West Kappel, in the island of Wal- ; chcren, it is said, that, had it been oii- ; ginally made of solid copper, the first cost would have been less than the sums ab'eady expended in building and re- pairing it. The polders, or drained and dyked meadows, are divided by the , water engineers into two classes — those ; near-est the sea or river, which are of ' com'se most exposed to inundation, are ; caRcd polders calamiteux ; the more dis- i tant are distinguished as non calamiteux. \ The fiist class requires sfronger dykes, \ the maintenance of which is ctmsidered : so impoi1;ant that they are kept up partly I at the expense of government; those further inland, not being equally ex- posed to danger, are maintained by the province or by private individuals. A large poiiion of the country being thus partitioned out, as it were, by dykes, even should the outer or sea- dyke break, the extent of the disaster is limited by these inner defences, and the further ravages of the flood are pre- vented. Notwithstanding the care with which they are continually watched, a riipture took place, in 1808, in the gr-eat dyke of West Kappel, by which a great part of the island of Walcheren was in- uirdated ; the sea stood as high as the roofs of the houses in the streets of Middelburg, and the destruction of that town was prevented solely by the strength of its wails. The whole pro-since is most fertile and productive, especially in com and madder, which may be considered the staple. Its meadows, manured with wood ashes, bear excellent grass. It is also exceedingly popidous, aboimding in towns and \illages ; but, owing to the embankments which enclose them, the only indications of their existence are the summits of spires, roofs, and tail chimneys, seen at intei'v^als over these artificial mounds by those who ascend the Schelde. The industry of the Zea- land peasant, and the economy with which he husbands his resoiu-ces, are very remarkable, and might fru-nish a good example to the same class in our ovm. coimtiy. As an instance of the mode in which he makes a little go a great way, it may be mentioned, that even from the rushes and reeds on the river banks he gains a meal for his cattle. "VNTren boiled, mixed with a little hay, and sprinkled with a little salt, they are much relished by the cows, who thrive upon them and' yield abimdance of milk. The island {)-t.) opposite to Wal- cheren is Cadsand, memorable in the English expedition of 1809. Cadsand had been, at an earlier period, the scene of a glorious -victory gained by the valiant Sir Walter Manny and Ileniy Plantagenet Earl of Derby, at the head of the chivahy of England, over a large body of Flenrings, in the pay of Philip de Yalois, King of France, iri 1337. The English, eficcting a land- ing in the face of the enemy, drove them fiom the sand-hills on which they 28 ROUTE 18. — LONDON TO ANTWERP. FLUSHING. Sect. I. were posted, and took, burned, and razed the town. The cloth-yard shafts of the English archers did great exe- ciition, and the personal prowess of the two leaders contributed not a little to the issue of the day. The first town which is perceived on the 1. of the spectator, and rt. bank of the river, is (rt.) FlushinTt (Dutch, "Missingen). Inn, Engel ; Gouden Appel. A fortified town of 7000 Inhab., with Dockyard and Naval Arsenal : 2 large and deep canals, communicating with the sea, enable the largest merchant vessels to peneti-ate into the town, and unload their cargoes on the quays, close to the warehouses. It was bombarded and taken by the English, under Lord Chatham in 1809, when a great part of the town was destroyed, and 300 of the inhab. pe- rished. This unprofitable and cruel exploit was the sole result of the Walcheren expedition, the largest and best-equipped armament which ever left the shores of Britain, consisting of 37 ships of the line, 23 frigates, and 82 gim-boats, containing a force of 100,000 men, who might have carried Antwei-p by a coup-de-main. Since then the works of Flushing have been greatly strengthened, and in com- bination with the Fort of Ramme- kens, lying to the E., and those of Breskens, on the opposite side of the Schelde (here fi'om 2^ to 3 m. broad), completely command the entrance of the river. Admiral de Ruiter was born here, the son of a rope-maker ; a statue has been erected to him by his townsfolk. The fine Stadhuis (town IlaU), 2 churches, and more than 100 houses, were destioyed by the bombs and Con- greve rockets of the English. Within the walls there is nothing but the usual singularities of a Dutch town (§ 10) to excite the attention of a stranger, but at West Kappel the construction of the dykes is seen in the gi'catest perfection. At this point there is a gap in the Dunes, and the country behind woiild be at the mercy of the sea, were it not de- fended by a dyke 4700 yds. long and 30 ft, high, upon the stability of which tJie safety of the whole island depends. [5 m. inland from Flu.shing (diligence every hour) is Middelburg, capital of Zealand. (7)in, Ileerenlogement, not bad.) 14,000 Inhab. A remarkably clean town, with a splendid Town Hall, built, 1468, by Charies the Bold, ornamented with 25 colossal statues of Counts and Countesses of Flanders. The telescope was invented at Mid- delburg, in 1601, by one Hans Lipper- shey, a spectacle-maker.] the climate of Walcheren is most un- healthy in spring and autumn, when even the natives are liable to ague, or a species of marsh fever called the koorts. This disease is far more fatal to sti'an- gei-s, as was proved by the deaths of 7000 English soldiers, who perished here dming the disastrous and ill-con- trived expedition of 1809. The fever, however, is not contagious, and may be avoided by protecting the person with warm clothes against the sudden transi- tions of temperature, and by careful diet. Many of the inhabitants are very long-lived ; and the moitality among the English became so great from the circumstance of their amving dui-ing the most unhealthy season, from their being exposed in tents to the night-air, and from their incautious consumption of green fruit. The distance from Flushing to Ant- wei-p up the river is reckoned to be about 62 m. The island next to Wal- cheren, foiTning the rt. bank of the river, is Zuid Beveland. On the 1. bank, but at some dis- tance off", is Biervliet, a small town, only deser-sdng of mention because a native of this place, named William Beukels, invented in 1386 the art of curing heiTings. A monument was erected in the church to him as a bene- factor to his country ; and it is related that Charles V., and his sister the Queen of Himgary, visited his tomb, out of respect to the memoiy of the fisherman to whom Holland owes a large part of her wealth, Biervliet was detached from the con- tinent by an inundation in 1377, which submerged 19 villages and nearly all their inhab. Dutch industiy and per- severance have long since recovered ever)' acre. Belgium, eoute 18. — loxdox to AXTWf:RP. the schelde. (/.) Tcmeusen. — Near this are the shiice-gatcs "vrhich close the entrance of the new canal extending to Ghent, which gives that city all the advantages of a seaport, as it is 16 ft. deep, and wide enough to admit vessels of very large huithen. It serves also as a di-ain to cany off the water from the district through which it passes. At Sas van Gend are sluices, hy means of which the whole country can he laid under water. The aitificial embankments on each side of the Schelde ai-e protected against the ciUTcnt, and masses of floating ice brought down in winter, by piers and breakwaters of piles driven into the river bed, or by masonry brought from a considerable distance in the interior, principally from Xamur. Below this both banks of the Schelde belong to Holland ; but, after passing the tei-mination of the island of Zuid Beveland, the river flows through Bel- gian territory. The strait or passage called Ki-eck Bak, which separates Zuid Beveland from the main land, is commanded by the very sti'ong Fort Batz, which lies on the limits of the Dutch temtoiy. Etc. 13. On approaching Forts Lillo {rt.) and Liefkenshoek (/.), the city of Antwerp with its tall spire appears in sight. These two strong works remained after the Belgic revolution in the hands of the Dutch down to 1839, when they were dismantled and given up to the Belgians in exchange for Yenloo in Limburg, and abandoned in conformity with the Treaty of the Quadruple Al- liance. They completely commanded the passage up and down the Schelde, which here puts on the appearance of a riA-er ; lower down it is more an arm of the sea, flowing between the islands of Zealand. The polders (§ 11) above Fort Lief- kenshoek, on the 1, bank, were laid under water during the contest with the Dutch, by cutting the dykes, and down to 1838 an extensive tract of country remained in consequence de- solate and useless. 5 or 6 other forts are passed on either side of the river p^c^'ious to amving at Antwei-p. Be- tween (/.) Calloo and (rf.) Oordam, in 29 1585, the Duke of Parma threw across the Schelde his celebrated bridge 2400 ft. long, which, by closing the naviga- tion of the river, and preventing the an-ival of supplies of provisions to the besieged city of Antwerp, mainly con- tributed to its sm-render. The bridge was so strongly built that it resisted the floods and ice of winter ; 97 pieces of cannon were moimted on it, 2 forts guarded its extremities, and a protect- ing fleet was stationed beside it to assist in repelling any attack. The besieged, who, at first, laughed to scorn the notion of rendering such a structure pennanent, when they foimd that all commimication with their friends was cut off by it, began to tremble for the result, and eveiy effort was made by them to effect its destruction. One night, the Spaniards were surprised by the appearance of 3 blazing fires float- ing down the stream, and bearing dii'ectly towards the bridge. These were tire-ships invented by a foreign engineer then within the waUs of Ant- wei-p. The Prince of Parma rushed to the bridge to avert the thi'eatening danger, and, had he not been forcibly removed from it, would probably have lost his life ; for one of the vessels, reaching its destination with gi-eat pre- cision, blew up with such tremendous force as to biu^t through the bridge in spite of its chains and cables, and de- molished one of the stockades which connected it -with the shore. 800 Spanish soldiers were destroyed by the explosion, and Panna himself was stnick down senseless by a beam. Had the Zealand fleet been at hand, as pro- posed, the city might have been re- lieved; unfortiuiately some untoward mistake prevented its co-operation at the right moment, and allowed the Spanish general time to repair the damages, which, with his usual acti- vity, he effected in an incredibly short space. Another attempt on the part of the besieged to destroy the bridge, by means of an cnonnous floating ma- chine called the '^End of the \Var," an improphctic name, was entirely frus- trated by the vessel iimning agroimd ; and Antwci-p, reduced by famine, was compelled to smTcnder. 30 ROUTE 19. — GHEXT TO BRUSSELS. Sect. I. It was immediately in front of the fort of St. Laui'cnt, below the tovm of Antweip, that an instance of patriotic devotion was manifested on the part of a Dutch officer, which deserves to rank by the side of the heroic deeds of the Spartans and Romans. In February, 1831, while hostilities were still in progress between Holland and Bel- gium, one of the Dutch gun-boats, in sailing up the Schelde from Fort Aiis- tniweel to the citadel during a heavy gale, twice missed stays. In spite of all the exertions of the crew, the vessel took the ground close under the guns of the fort, and within a few yards of the docks. The helpless situation of the gim-boat had been marked by crowds of Belgians from the shore ; and the moment she was fast, a body of Belgian volimteers leaped on board, in haste to make a prize of the stranded vessel. The commander, a young officer named Yan Spcyk, was called on, in a triumphant tone, to haul down his colours and surrender. He saw that all chance of rescue, and of successful resistance against unequal numbers, M-ere alike vain ; but he had repeatedly before expressed his detennination never to jdeld up his vessel, and he proved as good as his word. He inished down to the powder magazine, laid a lighted cigar upon an open barrel of gunpow- der, and then, falling on his knees to implore forgiveness of the Almighty for the crime of self-destruction, he calmly aw^aited the result. In a few moments the explosion took place ; and, while the vibration shook the whole city, the dauntless Van Spej-k, and all but 3 out of his crew of 31 men, were blown into the air. Van Speyk was an orjihan ; he had been edu- cated at the public expense in an orphan house at Amsterdam : thus nobly did he repay his debt, and his country and king were not unmindful of him. A monument was set up to his memory by the side of that of De Ruiter, and it was decreed that henceforth a vessel in the Dutch naxj should always bear the name of Van Speyk. AxTWERP. See Rte. 22. 1 ROUTE 19. I GHENT TO BRUSSELS BY AL03T. 6i posts == 30i Eng. m. I The Railroad by Mechlin to Brus- I sels, though longer, is a quicker way I to Brussels than this high road, on , which the diligences take 7 hrs. The gate by which we quit Ghent, I called the Porte de Bnixelles, or de I I'Empereur, dates from 1300. A stone ; bridge, built 1820, connects it with the ; fine suburb of La Pecherie. ! 1^ Quadrecht, on the Schelde. Near I this the railway crosses the road. I 2 Alost (or Aalst). — Inns; H. Pays- Bas ; Trois Rois. A town of 14,800 inhab., on the Dender. The name sig- ^ nifies "to the east," i. e. of the Imperial I province of Flander.s, of which it was 1 the fi'ontier towoi in that direction. I The Cathedral ox.Ch. of St. Martin is unfinished, or in part destroyed; what is left is very beautiful, and said I to be by the architect of Amiens. In it I is a celebrated picture, St. Roch inter- I ceding with oiu" Saviour to appease the I plagiie at Alost, by Ruhem. It is one ' of his most sublime works, and was carried to Pans by the French. "The composition is upon the same plan as that of St. Bavon at Ghent. The pic- ture is divided into ' two parts. The Saint and Christ are represented in the upper part, and the effi'cts of the plague in the lower part of the pictm-e. In this piece the grey is rather too predo- minant, and the figures have not that union with their ground which is ge- nerally so admirable in the works of Rubens. I suspect it has been in some pict\ire-cleaner's hands, whom I have often known to darken every part of the ground about the figure, in order to make the flesh look brighter and clearer, by which the general effect is de- stroyed." — Sir J. R. Near the H. de Ville, recently rebuilt by Roelandt, is the ancient Maison Commxne, founded in 1200 ; its tower and balcony in front date from 14S7. Alost is a great hop-market, and has considerable cloth manufactures. It is 3 m. S. of the Audeghem station {see p. 47). Omnibuses ply to and from the railroad. Belgium. ROUTE 20. — LONDON TO OSTEND. 31 li Assche. A small to\vii of 4000 iuhab., trading in flax and hops. " A particular sort of cake is made here : the Flemish name of it has a mars'el- lously uncouth appearance ; it is suiker- koekjes; nevertheless they are good cakes, and sold by Jodocus de Bischop, next door to the auberge La Tete de Boeuf." — Sontheij. 1^ BuussELS. (See Etc. 23.) ROUTE 20. VOYAGE FROM LONDON OR DOVER TO OSTEND. Steamers to and from London, in summer 4 times a-week, starting from London Wed. and Sat. morning, and returning Tues. and Fri. The aver- age passage is 15 hrs., 7 of Avhich are occupied in descending the Thames, Fares : chief cabin, II. 4s. ; fore cabin, 18s. ; carriages, 3/. 3s. Ostend pre- sents more frequent opportimities of reaching London than either Antwei-p or Rotterdam. Between Dover and Ostend there is no"w a daily mail communication by fixst-rate iron steamers, belonging to the English and Belgian governments. The departures on both sides are so arranged as to avoid (excepting in ex- traordinary cases) all landing in boats. The great power of these steamers (120 to 140 h. p.) as compared with their tonnage (190 tons), and their light draft of water (5 to 6 ft.) enable them to save the tide, and to perform the voyage in 4 or 5 hrs. The distance is 63 m. Fares: chief cabin, 15s. ; fore- cabin, 10s. ; children half-price. Car- riages, 2 wheels, 1/. lis. 6c7. ; 4 wheels, 3/. 3s. Persons leaving London by the mail train at 8.30 p.m. may reach Brus- sels or Antwci-p at 11.30 next morning, and Cologne in the evening ; Hambm-g at 5, and Berlin at 9 o'clock on the fol- lowing evening. In the Belgian govern- ment steamers the luggage is examined during the voj^age. Steamers sometimes run during Slim- mer from Ramsgate, which harbour they can leave at all times of the tide, and therefore have less chance of miss- ing the tide at Ostend. The light of Dunkirk, about 15 m. S., is seen before the Ostend light. The harbour of Ostend, which is diy at low water, is flanlced by 2 jetties, furnishing agreeable walks ; at the entrance is a bar of sand, which is kept down by the discharge of the sluices connected with the canal to Bruges. Ostend. — Iruis: Hotel d'Allemagne, close to Raifroad stat., good ; — H. Fon- taine, Rue Longue, new 1850;— H. des Bains : charges, table-d'hote, 3 fr. ; half-bottle of wine 1 fr. 50 c. ; bed 1 fr\ 50 c. ; tea or breakfast 1 fr. 50 c. ; — Hotel Marion; — Cour Imperiale ; — Lion d'Or; quiet. Travellers should be on their guard against drinking water, which is filtered rain-water. Seltzer I water is drunk in preference. (§ 6.) j The Passport-Office and Custom-house I are both near the harbour : they open j at 5 A.M. in summer, to preyent delay I to passengers who may desire to pro- I ceed on their journey. If the traveller j reaches Ostend in time to proceed on I to Bruges the same evening, he will j find it the better place to spend the- ; night at. A commissionaii-e will attend [ to the passport and seciu-e places, and j consider himself well paid by 2 fr. X.B. Passengers going direct to Cologne need not have their baggage searched at Ostend. They may place it under the charge of an officer of the rail- road, who is to be found at the Custom- house, who takes charge of it at once, and it will be delivered again on the production of the ticket at Cologne, where it is examined. Such luggage is marked "in transit." Vigilantes, § 22 A. English is much spoken, and there is even an Enqlish Chapel here. A few hoiu's at Ostend exhaust a traveller's patience ; while the visit to the douane, and the extortions of inn- keepers and commissionaires, are not likely to improve his temper. The best advice which can be given to any one about to embark hence to England is not to set out for this place a moment sooner than will enable him to go com- fortably on board the steamer. Those whom accident or design may detain will perhaps be glad of the following information : — Ostend contains 14,244 Inhab. ; it stands in an angle between the sea and the harbour, and even on the land-side 32 ROUTE 21. — OSTEXD TO BRUGES, ETC. Sect. I. is nearly surroiinded by water. The land lies very low aU round, and the waters are controlled by means of sluices. Ostend is stronirly fortified, and sur- rounded by ramparts and broad ditches. It endured one of the most famous sieges recorded in history, from the Spaniards; it lasted 3f years" from 1601 to 1604. The town yielded to the Spanish general Spinola at' last, only by command of the States-General, ' who had gained their point by its obstinate resistance. 50,000 men of the besieged, and 80,000 Spaniards, are said to have fallen diiring the siege. The yictors paid dearly for their conquest ; all that they gained was a plot of ground covered with a heap of ruins ; for their cannon had levelled every house with the earth ; and they lost 4 other towns, which were wrested fi-om them by the Dutch while their armies M^ere engaged in this unprofitable enterprise. The noise of the bombardment was, it is said, heard in London at times. As a fortress O.stend forms the fii'st member of that great chain of defences which were intended to protect Belgium on the side of France. Neither the public buildings here, nor the churches, are remarkable, except to those who have never before seen the paraphernalia of the Roman Catholic religion. The only thing worth seeing, and the most agreeable spot in Ostend, is the Di'jxie, a sea-wall 40 ft. high and ^ m. long, extending between the sea and the ramparts, faced with stone and paved with bricks, which forms a public promenade, and commands a wide ex- tent of dimes and flat sands to the sea, not a tree being visible. This and the wooden Piers stretching on both sides of the harboiu^s mouth are much re- sorted to in the evening. Ostend is a favourite watering-place, and is much resorted to in summer (Aug. and Sept.) ; even the King and Queen of the Belgians repair hither, and occupy 2 or 3 ordinary-looking houses in the Rue Longue. There are 80 Bathing Machines on the beach, and the sands are very extensive and smooth, and cijbwded with bathers of both sexes, decorously clad in bath dresses, by order of the police. A bathing-house, Pad I Ion des Bains, has been established close to the sea, on this Digue. In the To^Ti-haU, on the Place d' Armes, is the Casino, a sort of assem- bly-room or club, the subscription to which amounts to 12 fr. for the season. It contains a ball-room 150 ft. long, : where there is dancing 2 or 3 times a i week. Beneath it are reading-rooms, j pro^-ided with newspapers, cofice and billiard rooms. Max. Komiker, book- ; seller, has a shop at Ostend. I An English consul (Mr. Cuny) re- sides at Ostend; a British subject may I obtain from him a passport, should he have neglected to provide himself with one in England. Outside the Bniges gate are the Oyster Parks {Hnitrieres), salt-water reservoirs filled with oysters brought fi-om Har- wich, Colchester, and elsewhere on the Engli-sh coast, and fattened here. Another is near the Lighthouse. They are transported hence as far as Paris, under the name of Huitres d'Ostende. Steamers to London and to Dover, see p. 119. Diligence daUy to Calais, by Dvmkirk, in 9 hrs. Railroad, see § 22, and Rte. 21. ROUTE 21. OSTEND TO nnUGES, GHENT, TERMONDE, AND MECHLIN.— RAILROAD. Ostend to Bruges ?2kilom.=l 3i m. Bniges to Ghent 45 kilom.= 281 ni. Ghent to Mechlin 56 kilom.:=35 m. The country is rich in an agricultural point of \aew, but flat, tame, and tire- some to other eyes than those of a far- mer. A Canal connects Ostend with Bruges, a fine broad sheet of water, 3 or 4 times wider than the narrow strips to which we are accustomed in England. In 1798 a detachment of English troops landed at the mouth of it and desti'oycd the sluices ; but the wind shifted before they could make good their retreat, and they were taken prisoners by the French. 7 Plassciiendael Stat. The Dunkirk canal here joins that from Ostend to Bruges. At Oudenburg are kitchen Belgium. eoute 21. — brug gardens wliicli supply Ostend with ve- getables. 6 Jabbeko Stat. 9 Bruges Stat. ^ hr. from Cstend. Bruges (Flcm. Brugge).— //(«s : H. de Flandres, in the Eiic Xoordzand ; table-d'hCte at 1 ; the fish dinners on Fridays are renowTied.^ — II. dii Com- merce in the Eue St. Jacques ; fail' and cheap. — Fleiu- de Ble. — Oiu-s d'Or. This city, the Livei-pool of the middle ages, which was rich and powerful when Antwerp and Ghent were only in theii- infancy, is now reduced to 49,437 inhab., of whom 15,000 are paupers. In the 14th cent, the commerce of the world may be said to have been con- centrated in it : Factories, or privileged •ompanies of merchants, from 1 7 king- loms were settled here as agents ; 20 breigu ministers had hotels within its .vaUs ; and natives of many distant 'Ountries, of which little was then ^-.nown but theii- names, repaired hither nnually. Early in the 13th cent, .h-uges was made the staple place of the cities of the Hanseatie League, and of the Enghsh wool trade, and became the centre of resort for the Lombard and Venetian traders, who brought hither the manufactures of India and the pro- duce of Italy, to exchange them for the merchandise of Gennany and the Baltic. Ptichly laden argosies from Venice^ Ge- noa, and Constantinople, might, at the same time, b€ seen imiuading in its hai'bom- ; and its warehouses groaned beneath bales of wool from England, linen from Belgium, and silk from Persia. It stands on the little river Eege, formerly navigable, but now almost absorbed by canals. Bruges was long the residence of the Coimts of Flanders ; but it reached the height of its splendour in the fii-st part of the 15th cent., when the Dukes of Bur- gundy fixed their court here. At present it wears an air of deso- ■ lation ; the people in its streets are few, and it has lost the indications of com- mercial activity. Its appearance is the jnore mom-nful from its gi'cat extent, and the size and imaltered splendour of many of the public buildings and pri- vate houses, — vestiges of its former M'calth and prosperity. [b. & K.] CATHEDRAL. a3 Fair city, worthy of her ancient fame! The season of lier splendour is gone by, Yet everywhere its monuments remarn : Temples which rear their stately heads on high, Canals that intersect the fertile plain — Wide streets and squares, with many a court and hall, Spacious and nndefac'd — but ancient all. ^Vhen I may read of tilts in days of old, Of tournays grac'd by chieftains of reno-<\n, Fair dames, grave citizens, and warriors Ixild^^ If fancy could portray some stately town, ' Which of such pomp fittheaitre may be, Fair Bruges ' I shall then remember thee. SOUTHEV. It has still many objects of interest, : which desei-ve at least a day to be de- voted to them. They may be conve* niently >'isited in the following order : — ■ Start from the raifroad station, close to which is a Capuchin convent^ by the . Rue Zuidzand, which leads to the Ca^ thedral (rt,) ; thence to Notre Donley which is at a short distance to the S.E. — on \hG y^' of this is the Hospital of St. Jean ; thence, by the D}-^'er canal, : thi-ough the fish-market, to the Hotel de Ville, Falais de Justice, and Gha-^ I pelle du S. Sang ; thence by the Eue I Haute, Pont des Moulins, and Eue Molenmaersch, to the Jerusalem Chm-ch, ; beyond whicK near the rampait, are : the garden of St. Sebastian and Con- ! vent of English ladies ; retxmi by Eue I and Pont des Carmes to the Accdemie I and the Grande Place. t The Cat/iedi\il {St. Sauvciw), on the . rt. side of the Staen street, leading from the railway into the town, is a Gothic 1 building, externally of brick, and ugly ; but within, the handsomest chmxh in 1 Bi-uges (date after 1358). Of the pic- I tures which it contains some are ciurious '. for their antiqciity, and most as con- \ tributious to the histoiy of Flemish art. Against the wall of the S. aisle hangs a , smaU picture with shutters, represcntifig I the martyrdom of St. Hippolytus, who j wss torn in pieces by horses, by Hans I Hemling. On the outside of the shttt- I ters are 4 saints in grey ; inside, a I crowned figiu'e, and the donor and his wife, capital portraits. There is also a good pictiue of the Last Supper, with Abraham and Elijah in the centie and at the side, by Peter Forhus. There are several paintings by the brothers Van Oost. On either side of the altar is a fine marble tomb. In the Chapello D 34 r.OUTE 21. — BRUGES. CHUFX'HES. HOSPITAL. Sect. I. dcs Cordonniers, in the X. aisle, is a series of monumental Brasses built into the "vrall, interesting examples of early Flemish art in the 15th and 16th cen- turies. Notre Dame (Onze Yrou\r) is a church surmounted by a tall brick tower, -vrith stunted spire, less remark- able for its architectxire than for the works of art to be found in it. The pulpit is one of those specimens of ela- borate carding in wood, so common in the chiu'ches of the Netherlands . In a chapel in the S. side of the Ch. is a statue of the Virgin and Child, said to be by Michael Anf/elo, and believed by Sir Joshua Eeynolds to have certainly the ail- of his school. There is a grandeur about the upper part of the Virgin's figure, and in the tmn of the head and in the features, which resemble some of M. Angelo's works. The tradition in Bi-uges is, that a vessel which was con- vepng it to England was lost on the neighbouring coast of Flanders. Ho- race Walpole is said to have offered 30,000 fl. for it. It was carried to Paris by the French. Beyond, in a chapel in the aisle S. of the choir, are the Tombs of Charles the Bold, Diike of Bm-- gtmdy, and his daughter Mary, wife of the Empr. Maximilian, the last scions of the house of Burgundy, and the last native sovereigns of the Netherlands. The effigies of both father and daughter, made of copper, richly gilt, but not displaying any high excellence as works of art, repose at full length on slabs of black marble. Beneath and round the sides are coats of arms richly enamelled, " which record the sti-ing of duchies, counties, and lordships which this illus- trious and amiable heiress brought to the house of Austi-ia, and which after- wards swelled the empire, on which the Sim never set, of her grandson Charles V. The exquisite richness of the monu- ments, the historical interest attaching both to the father and daughter, and the affection of the Flemish for the memory of this young comitess, who died when pregnant at the age of 25, by a fall from her horse, while hawking with her hus- band near Bruges, having long con- cealed, out of affection for him, the mortal injury she had received, render I them objects worthy of considerable attention." The Duke wears a cro^^Ti I on his head, and is decorated with the I order of the Golden Fleece. I The Moroi.ment of Mary of Bm-gundy j was erected in 1495, and is far superior I to the other. In 1558 Philip II. be- spoke one exactly like it for his great- great-gi'andfather, Charles the Bold, and paid one Master Jonghelinck for it 14,000 fl., besides 40 fl. to each of the workmen as compensation for the loss of his teeth in the process of enamelling. During the French Revolution these monuments were concealed, to preserve them from rapacity and Vandalism, by the beadle of the church, Pierre De- zutter, at the pei-il of his life, siace a price of 2000 fr. was put upon his head in consequence of this good deed. Both monuments have been recently (flnished in 1848) cleaned and regilt by a gold- smith of Bruges, M. Allard ; a charge of 50 cents per person is made for show- ing them. A wooden planking affixed to the railing of the chapel conceals them from view. A richly carved Gothic balcony, of the pew of the family of Gruthiiyze, on the 1. of the high altar, and a painting in the style oiJohn Mahuse (16th cent.), representing a Madonna (Mater Dolorosa) in the centre, with 7 scenes from the life of Christ round it, deserve to be looked at. The Crucifixion and the Last Supper, by Peter Porbus, hang in the side aisles, and are among the finest works of that artist. In the Ch. of St. Jacqy.es (close to the Hotel du Commerce), a handsome building, rich in altars and marbles, are some interesting monumental brasses of a Spanish family : observe one, dated 1577, to Don Francisco di Lapuebla and his lady, in the Chapel of Ste. Croix. They are worthy of notice, because few are now to be seen in Belgium. Close to Notre Dame is the Hospital of St. John, an ancient charitable insti- tution, where the sick are attended by the religious sisters of the house, whose duties resemble those of the Soeurs do la Charite. Poitraits of some of the directors and superiors of the establish- ment hang in the Chapter House, which also contains the celebrated pictures, Belg, ium. ROUTE 21. — BRUGES. FICTURES. H. DE VILLE. 35 the pride of the city and adniii-ation of travellers, painted by Ham Hemliag, or more correctly Jlemlin//, and presented by him to the hospital out of gratitude for the suecom- which he had received "U'hile a patient in it, suffering from ■\\-oiinds received in the battle of Nancy, 1477. The subject of one is the Virgin and Child, with St. Catherine ; and on the shutters the Decollation of St. John Baptist, and St. John Evangelist at Patmos : on the outside are several figures of saints. The artist never sur- passed, or even equalled, this great per- formance. The stiifuess of the figm'cs is usual in paintings of the period at which these were executed ; but the careful finish of the heads, — equal to that employed in the finest miniatures, — the exquisite character which they discover, and the beauty and vividness of tlie colouring, are rare and tnAy ad- inii-able. They were executed in 1479, and bear his name. There is another email altarpiece by Hemliiuj, also with wings : the principal subject is the Adoration of the Magi ; at the sides are the Nativity and the Pm-ification in the Temple. Besides these there are two heads by HemUng ; also a Crucifijsion by Frants, and a Holy Family said to bo by Yandyk. Another not less interesting object is the Reliquary or Chasse de St. Ur- s'de, a wooden coffer for holding the aim of the saint, painted by Hem- ling. On each side of the cover are 3 medallions, the smaller of which con- tain angels playing insti'iunents, the larger a coronation of the Virgin and tlie glorification of St. Ursula. On one gable end is the Virgin and Child, on the other St. Ursula. On the long sides are subjects from the legend of St. Ursula and the 11,000 Virgiiis at C'Aogne. St. Ursula was the daughter of an English king ; with a train of 11,000 virgins, her lover Conan, and an escort of knights, she made a pilgrimage to Rome. On their return they all suf- fered martyrdom at Cologne. The paintings are executed with the most delicate finish. 1. In the first, repre- senting the landing at Cologne, the tra- veller will recognise the cathedi-al, churches, and other buildings of that I, city, copied with considerable fidelity. ' 2. The landing at Cologne, a. The '. an-ival at Borne ; the Pope receives the pilgrims. 4. Retiu-n to Basle, and re- embarkation on the Ehine. b kQ form ! one pictiu'c, the groups and bavkgi-ound i being continued from one to the other — the martyrdom of Conan and of St. , Ursula in the camp of the Emperor j Maximin, on the banks of the Ehine. ; "' These little pictures are among the j very best productions of the Flemish ! school. The drawing in these small , figures is much more beautifid than in the larger ones by the same master. , There is nothing in them meagre, stiff, I or angular.; the movements are free; the execution and tone of colom-, with all its softness, very powerful ; the ex- pression in the single heads of the highest excellence." — Euglcr. The large hall, di^'ided by partitions into wards and dormitories, and kitchen for the use of the patients, is interesting for its cleanliness and good order, and, above all, for its antiquity. It is a Gothic hall, with rows of pointed arches on piers di-sading it into aisles, and, probably, has undergone no change since the day when Hemling was re- ceived into it. Admission is given at any time except when service is going on in the chiuxh. The H6%1 do Ville is an elegant Gothic stmctiu-e, though of small di- mensions, built in 1377. The niches in front were decorated with curious sta- tues of the Counts of Flanders ; but on the arrival of the French revolutionary army, in 1792, all these "representa- tions of tp-ants " were pulled down, broken, and bimit in the gi-eat square in a bonfire, 'the materials of which were composed of the gallows, the scaffold, and the wheel. At a window or balcony in front of the builtling the Counts of Flanders presented them- selves to the citizens after their acces- sion, and took the oaths, promising to obey the laws and maintain the privi- leges of the towm. The PuhUc Library (open 10-3) is now placed in the Grand IlaU, extending nearly the whole length of the building, and is remark- able for its Gothic roof of wood. It is well furnished in the departments of d2 36 ROUTE 21. BRUGES. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. Sect. I. French and Flemish literature, and contains a few curious MSS. Among other curiosities is a ]\Iissal of the 14th cent., and the scheme of a lotteiy drawn at Bruges in 1445 — an earlier date than is usually given to the inven- tion of lotteries, which renders it pro- bable that they originated in Flanders, and not ia Italy, as is commonly be- lieved. Adjoiniag the H. dc Yille is the Palais de Justice^ anciently called Palais du Franc de Bruges (the liberty of Biiigcs, an extensive district independent of the towTi) . The back ^dew of this building, toward the Fish-market, is curious. The Council Chamber of the magistrates is particularly deserving of notice : it is antique, though the rest of the building dates from 1722. It contains a mag- nificent chimney-piece, occupj-ing one side of the room, carved in wood (date 1529), including statues as large as life, and well executed, of Charles V., Mary of Burgundy and Maximilian, Charles the Bold and Margaret of York, his third wife, surroimded with coats of arms of Burgimdy, Spain, ko. It is also decorated with marble bas-reliefs representing the story of Susannah. There is a Gothic chapel in the comer of the square at the opposite end of the Town House, on the site of the first dweUiag of the Coimts of Flanders, and called La Chapelle du Sang de Lieu^ from some di'ops of our Savioiu''s blood, brought by Coimt Thieny of Alsace from the Holy Land, and presented by him to the town, and now deposited in a richly jewelled and enamelled shrine of silver gilt, executed in 1617 by Jean Crabbe. This is to be seen in the j upper chapel, Avhere is a pulpit with I medallions caiwed in wood. The inte- ' rior has been recently restored, and is I not worth seeing. Admission by tariff, | 50 cents. The exterior of the staircase i leading to the chapel is in a florid | Gothic, and dates from 153.3. The cn-pt, j called the Chapel of St. John, is the I oldest building in Bruges, perhaps of the &th cent. John Yan Eyck, the painter, who died at Bruges, 1441, was buried in the former cathedral of St. Bonatus, demo- lished by the French, which stood op- posite the Hotel de YUle. Its site is now planted with trees, among which stands a vile clumsy statue of Yan Eyck, being a painted plaster cast of the marble statue in the Academy, executed by Calloigne, 1775-1830, a native of Bruges, and director of the Academy. The Jerusalem Ch., in a veiy re- mote part of the town, is only re- markable on accoimt of a copy of the Holy Sepvdehi-e at Jerusalem contained in it, from which it gets its name. It is a fac-simile of the interior of the tomb, and it is recorded that the founder of the chapel, a burgomaster of Bruges, Pierre Aclorner, who is buried here, with his wife, made 3 joiu-neys to the Holy Land to perfect the resem- blance. There is an English nnnnery here ; it was founded more than a cent, ago, for 40 nuns, natives of England and Ireland. The chapel is much admired. Strangers are admitted to hear the ser- vice, -which is exquisitely chanted by the nuns. The Academy of Painting, in the Gothic buUding called Het Poorters Huis, originally the factory of the Biscayans, Academic Plaets, contains some fine old paintings. The most re- markable are, — by J. Van £yck :■ — 1. The Yu-gin and Child, with St. George and St. Donatus ; the donor on his knees, holding a pair of spectacles ; date 1436. " It has great character of nature, and is very minutely finished, though the painter was 66 years old when it was done." 2. A portrait of his wife is painted in a very superior style, and deserves minute attention, 3. A head of Christ, with the date 1440. The second figiu-e 4 has been partly erased, so as to look lilvc 2, which has given rise to the eironeous assertion that this was the first picture painted by this artist with oil colom's. (§ 25.) Hans Hcmling : — An altar-piece with folding-doors ; in the centre the Bap- tism of Christ ; on the wings portraits of the donor of the picture, his wife and family ; and on the outside the Yirgin and Child. This is a beautiful painting, remarkable especially for the sweet ex- pression of some of the countenances, and their elaborate finish. It was Belgium. ROUTE 21. BRUGES. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. formerly in the Town-house. Another altar-piece by the same master, but inferior to the preceding, represents St. Christopher Avith the infant Jesus on his shoulders. The portraits of the donors of this picture, and their family, are xcry fine. 3 or 4 other pictures shown here are atti-ibuted to Hemling, but their genuineness is doubted ; at all events, they are far below the others in excellence. Not undeserving of notice are 2 portraits of a burgess of Bruges and his wife (1554), and 2 Last Judg- ments, by Porhiis the elder ; and the Judgment of Cambyses, 2 subjects^ by Ant. Claessens the elder. On one side of the The Grande Place stands Lcs JfaUes, a large building (date 1364), one wing of which was intended to be a cloth-hall ; the other is occupied as a flesh-market. The tower or belny in its centre is an elegant Gothic structure, imposing from its height. The view from its top is, as may be supposed, extensive ; it com- mands the roofs of the cit}^, and a sort of map-like panorama of the sur- rounding coimtry. The Chimes (§ 26) from this tower are the finest in Eu- rope, and almost incessant : they are played 4 times an hour by machinery, which may be seen near the top of the tower. It consists of an enormous brass cylinder, acting like the ban-el of an organ, and setting in motion the keys of the insti-ument ; but on Sun- days, from 11| to 12, the chimes are played by a musician. On the S. side of the square, at the comer of the Rue St. Amand, is the house inhabited by Charles II. during his exile from Eng- land. It bears the sign "-4;t Lion Beige." Even in his banishment he was not without a regal title, for the Burghers of Bruges elected him " King of the Company of CrossbowTuen." (Roi des Arbaletiiers.) An Estaminet, in the opposite comer of the Rue St. Amand, now occupies the site of the Craenenluirg, historically remarkable as having been the prison of the Empr. Maximilian,. 1487-8, when his unruly Flemish subjects, irri- tated at some infringement of their rights, rose up against him, seized his person, and shut him up in this building, ■ which they had fortified, and converted I into a prison by baning the windows. For several weeks he remained in close ) confinement, and the citizens kept watch I and ward over him. The Pope menaced them with excommunication, and the amiies of the Empu'c were put in march ' against them. Nevertheless, Maxi- milian was not released untO. he had ' sworn upon his knees, before an altar erected in the middle of this square, in i presence of magistrates, corporation, and people, to resign his claims to the guardianship of his son, to respect the j liberties of Bi'uges, and to gi'ant a I general amnesty for past offences against I his person and government. He ratified I this treaty by the most solenm oaths on ! the sacrament, the relics of St. Donatus, I and a fr-agment of the true cross, in spite : of which he broke it a few weeks after. I The Frinssenhof — the ancient palace . of the Counts of Flanders, in which : the marriage of Charles the Bold with j Margaret of York, sister of Edward I ly.f was celebrated in 1468, and where j PliiHp le Bel, father of Charles Y., was I bom- — is reduced to a few fragments of [ ruined wall included in a pri-\-ate house, i but retains the old name ; it is near the Rue Noordzand. The Hall of the Serge-mokers' Guild (date 1383), \^t\^ a bas-relief of St. George and the Dragon over the door ; the liouse of the English Merchants' Cora- ! pony, in which Caxton is said to have I resided while learaiug the ait of print- ; ing ; the house of Coimt Egmont, a few paces from the H. du Commerce, are buildings interesting fi'om age, archi- tecture, or associations. The Beguinage, or Convent of Beguine Xwis, near the western extremity of i the town, is inferior in extent to the one at Ghent ; but travellers ought to visit one or other of these interestmg esta- blishments. The Archers' Guilds deserve notice ; in the hall of the Fraternity of St. Se- bastian or the cross-bowmen is a bust of oui" Charles II., and a portrait of his brother the D. of Gloucester. From the tower in the archery ground there I is a good view of Bruges. i Service is performed on Stmdays in ! an English Protestant Church, 38 ROUTE 21. — BrUGES TO GHENT. ■ect. I. The Ramparts, extending all round the toMTi, arc an agTeeable walk. The principal manufacture earned on in the to-vrn is that of lace ; hut even it is much fallen of. In the three Latin lines already quoted, § 25, this town is said to he famed for prettj^ guds. Bruges has not lost its reputation in this respect ; and many a fair face and pair of black eyes will he met with peeping out from under the black hood of the mantle, called faUle, which is generally worn by the females of the lower orders, or sur- rounded by the primly plaited fi-ills of a lace cap. The invention of decimal arithmetic has been attributed to Simon Stevin, of Bruges. He was one of the best mathe- maticians of his age ; he recommended, but did not in^•ent, decimal arithmetic. He is the inventor of what is now called Bramah's press. There is a hea^y, ill- draped statue of him in the Place de Simon Stevin. The famous order of the Golden Fleece was established by Philip the Good, m 1430, at Bruges. In the sj-mbol of tliis institution he paid a just cr)mpliment to the skill of the weavers of Flanders, who, by the per- fection to which they had brought the ma.niifacbi.re of wool, had mainly contii- buted to the rapid advancement in prosperity of this country during the middle ages. The fleece, therefore, was very appropriately chosen as an emblem of the power and splendour of the riders of Flanders. Dui'ing the discon- tents which broke out in Belgium in the 14th cent., Edward III. invited many Flemings to England, who brought over vnth. them the art of manufactming the finer wooUen cloths, previously imknown, and by their as- sistance we soon sm-passed those of Flanders in excellence. Six canals concenti-atc at Bruges, from Ghent, Sluis (Ecluse, the port of Bmges), Xieuport, Fumes, Ypres, and Ostend. Damme, now a small -sdllage, about 3 m. on the Sluis road, is said to have been the port of Bruges, flourishing chiefly about 1200 ; tales are told of basins holding 1000 sail, where now is a fertile plain. At Damme is a fine church, partly in ruins, built early in the 13th cent. ; the tombstones foiTaing the pavement of the nave are beauti- fully carved. BRUGES TO GHENT. (45 kilom. = 28^ m.) Trains in 1 hr. The liaihcay Station at Bruges is on the Vrijdags Markt. The Grand Canal between Bruges and Ghent is bounded by high banks on each side, and for the gi'eater part of the distance is lined with tall trees, en- livened by occasional villas and neat gardens. " Europe can boast no richer, goodlier scene, By fertile fields and fruitful gardens green." Dante {Infer . xv. 4-G) compares the embankment, which separated the Piiver of Tears from the sandy desert, with that which the Flemings have thrown up between Ghent and Bi-ugcs against the assavdts of the sea : — " Quale i Fiamminglii tra Gu/zante e Bruggia, Temendo T fiotto che inver lor s'avventa, Fanno lo schermo, perclie l mar si fuggia." The Railroad is earned a little to the S. of the canal. 12 Bloemendael Stat. 10 Aeltre Stat. 7 Hansbeke Stat. 3 Landeghem Stat. 13 Ghent Stat., on the S.E. side of the to\\Ti, which stands principally on the rising gi'oimd beyond the station. The trains leave the station by the same rails on which they enter it. On the high ground to the 1., on arriving, and on the other side of the Schclde, is the new Citadel; the church on the hill, with a dome, is St. Pierre. Ghent (French, Gand ; Flcm. Gend ; Germ. Gent) .— Inns : H. Royal; Poste — both on the Kauter or Place d'Annes ; H. de Flandi-e, clean and quiet. 2>id Class: Paradis; Lion d' Or; H. des Pays-Bas, Marche aux Grains, very comfortable, but small. Ghent lies upon the rivers Schelde and Lys, whose mmierous branches, traversing the town, form canals in all directions : it has 103,729 inhab. In ! the time of Charles Y. this was, per- EOUTE 21. — GHEXT. Belgi'j.m. haps, the largest and most popiilous city of Europe. It contained 35,000 houses and 175,000 inhab. ; and that eniperoi' used sportively to say that he coidd put all Paris into his glove (gant). The circumference of its avails at the present day measm-es between 7 and 8 m. In the 10th cent, it was the capital of Flanders, but in process of time the txu'bulent weavers, among whom a spiiit of independence had early begun to work, rose up against their feudal su- periors, and threw off theii- yoke, or obtained from them concessions and immimitics which formed the origra of populai' rights ia Em'ope. At length its burghers became so bold and warlike, that they were able to repulse from their M'alls 24,000 English, coramanded by Edwai-d I., in 1297 ; and contiibuted to beat the elite of the French chivalry at Courti-ay, in the " Battle of Spiu's." Their allegiance, both to the Coimts of Flanders and Dukes of Bm-gundy, seems to have been little more than nominal ; since, whenever these scigTiLirrs at- tempted to impose a tax which was un- popular, the gi'eat bell soimded the alarm, the citizens flew to arms, and slew or expelled from the to%vn the officers appointed by their sovereign. It did not take long to equip an armament of biu'ghers and artisans, who had weapons always at hand, and who re- paii'cd to the scene of action in their every-day or working di'css, only dis- tinguished by a badge, such as a white sleeve worn over it, or a white hood. Thus it happened that popular tumults were as frequent in the 14th and 15th cent, in Ghent as they have been in Pans in the 19th, and rather more difficult to qucU. On the other hand, it not unfrequently happened that the seignem-, aroused by some act of atro- city or insubordination, collected his forces together, and took signal and terrible vengeance. These courageous but imdiscipHned citizens then atoned for their audacit)' on the field of battle, being mowed down in thousands. After- wards came the season of retribution and humiliation for the town : enor- mous subsidies were IcA-ied on it ; its dearest privileges were confiscated ; and its most honoured citizens and magis- S9 trates were condemned to march out of the gates in their shirts, with halters round their necks, and to kiss the dust before the feet of their imperious lord and conqueror. The city of Ghent was several times forced to make such an abject and ludicrous act of submission. The inunediate cause of its decline and ruin may be traced to this spuit of re- volt. The citizens, " intoxicated with the extent of their riches and the ful- ness of their freedom,'' engaged in a contest with their sovereign, Philip the Good. It is no little proof of theii- vast resom-ces that they were able to main- tain it from 1448 to 1453 ; but in the end they were compelled to submit, with abject humiliation, heavy fijies, and loss of trade. In 1400 the city of Ghent is said to have contained 80,000 men capable of beaiing arms. The nimibcr of weavei's then amoxmted to 40,000, and they alone could fru-nish 18,000 fighting men o\it of theii* corporation. A cus- tom uri ived from that period still exists in the town : — a bell was riuig at morn- ing, noon, and evening, to simimon the weavers to their work and meals : while it tolled, the di-awbridges over the canals could not be raised for the pas- sage of vessels ; and other persons were even enjoined not to go out into the streets, for fear of inteiTupting the vast stream of population ; while children were carefrilly kept within doors, lest they should be trodden imder foot by the passing multitude. Though fallen fi-om its high estate, it does not display the same signs of decav and listlessness as Bnigos : it is stiU'the Behjio Manchester. In 1804, while imited to France, it was ranked by Xapoleon as the thii'd manufactming town in his dominions, — after Lyons and Rouen. The Revolution of 1830, however, inflicted another vital blow on its prosperity. Several considerable manufactm'es are, however, earned on. here, especially that of cotton. In 1801 a clever Fleming, named Lieven Bauens, brought over from Manchester English workmen and spinning jennies. The manufactm-e C[uickly took root, so as to employ in a few years more than 30,000 workmen. GO steam-engines 40 ROUTE 21. — GHENT. EEFFROI. CATHEDRAL. Sect. I. were employed^ not long ago, in the town and neighbourliood to set in motion the machinery of the various cotton-mills,, some of whose chimneys, assuming the elegant form of classic columns, may he seen from the station. The picturesqueness of the houses of Ghent, the fantastic variety of gable ends rising stepwise, or ornamented with scrolls and carv^ing, arrest the strangers eye at every turn. (See § 25.) Among the chief buildings — The Beffroi — Belfry To>ver — is one of the most ancient in the town, dating from 1183. One of the earliest privi- leges which the citizens obtained from their feudal lords was to he allowed to build a belfry, and they long regarded it as a kind of monument of their power and wealth. It originally sciwed as a watch-tower, from which the ap- proach of an enemy might be descried, and it contained the tocsin-bell, by the tolling of which the citizens were called together to arms or to debate. One of the bells stiU bears this inscription : — " MjTien naem is Iloelant,.als iek clippe dan ist brandt ; als ick luyde, dan ist Storm im Maenderlandt." The Gilt Dragon on the top, which the Gantois canicd off from Bruges in the wars of the 14th cent., as a trophy of then- conquest of that town under the gene- ralship of PhilipYan Artevelde, has been re-gilt 1851. It originally decorated one of the Greek churches in Constan- tinople, and was brought from thence by the men of Bi-uges who went on the first crusade as soldiers of Baldwin Count of Flanders. The charters^ title- deeds, and records of Ghent were ori- ginally deposited in the lower part of the building ; it now serves as a prison. The view from the top is certainly far more striking than that from the great tower at Bruges ; the watch- maker, through whose shop, at its base, the entrance lies, exacts 2 francs for admission. Charles Y., when recommended by the cruel Alva to raze to the ga-ound this to^vTi, whose rebellion had given him so much trouble, took him to the top of the Beffi-oi, and, showing him the vast city spread out beneath, asked, " Combien il fallait de peaux d'Espagne pour faire im gant de cette grandeur r" — How many skins of Spanish leather would it take to make such a glove .' — thus rebuking the atrocious suggestion of his minister. It is, indeed, an interesting prospect ; the number of the squares, and width of the streets, admit the eye to range over something more than mere roofs of houses. Besides the towers and steeples of many churches, and the im- posing mass of the Town Hall close at hand, in the distance may be perceived the site and ruined walls of the Citadel, built by Charles V. to overawe the citi- zens. Beyond this, if we continue the survey, is the Great Beguinage, with its streets and squares ; and, following the line of ramparts, still fmlher to the left, near the Promenade of the Coupure, the Maison de Force, a vast building, resembling a wheel in its groimd plan, with the steeple of the prison church rising in the centre. The Cathedral of St. Bavon (Flem. St. Baefs), though somewhat heavy exter- naUy, is one of the most handsome in its internal proportions and splendid in its decorations of all the churches in Belgium. It was founded in 944, the choir and crypt were rebuilt in 1228, and the whole was finished in the be- girmiug of the 16th cent. The choir and transepts are lined Avith black mar- ble ; the balustrades are of white or variegated marble, a species of decora- tion which, though splendid, yet, being in the Grecian style, by no means befits a Gothic church : the gates of the cha- pels are of brass, and statues and paint- ings ornament every vacant space. Over \\ the choii', at a considerable elevation, \\ are affixed the anns of the knights of i\ the Golden Fleece. The last (23rd) j) chapter of the order was held in this church by PhiHp II. of Spain, 1559. The pulpit was carved by Delveaux, an artist of Ghent. The high altar itself is a remarkable object, bearing the statue of St. Bavon, in his ducal di-ess, by Yerbruggen. In front of it are 4 tall copper candlesti ks, remarkable as having belonged to King Charles I. It is supposed that they may have adorned the chapel of '\\'Tiite- Belgium. ROUTE 21. — GHENT. CATHEDRAL. PICTURES. 41 hall, or St. Paul's church, and that they were sold and sent out of England in the Protectorate of Oliver Cromwell. They still bear the arms of England. On each side of the chou-, near the altar, are handsome monuments, with statues of 4 bishops of Ghent. The finest is that of Bp. Van Triest, by Duquesnoy. The 24 chapels in the side aisles and I'ound the choir contain pictiu-es, which are here enumerated in order, begin- ning with that on the rt. hand as you enter the west door ; those in the 5th, 10th, 13th, and 14th chapels are pro- ductions of first-rate excellence, which deserve attentive consideration. In the first chapel on the rt. is a painting hj G. de Crayer — The Behead- ing of St. John. 2. Paelinck~^t. Colette receiving a Grant from the Magistrates of Ghent to establish a Convent. 3. Caver — St. John baptiz- ing Christ. 4. Jansens — Our Saviour's Body in the Lap of the Virgin. 5. The fii'st chapel in the upper church behind the choii- : Francis Forhm — Jesus in the midst of the Doctors : most of the faces are poili'aits ; among them Charles V. and Philip II. may be distinguished : it is a beautiful painting, but in a bad light. 6. G. de Crayer — Martyrdom of St. Barbe. 7. Vander Meiren (a pupil of Van Eyck) — Chiist between the Two Thieves. 8. Vander Heuvel — The "Woman taken in Adultery. In the 10th chapel or 6th beyond the transept is one of the finest works ever produced by the early Flemish school — the mas- terpiece of the brothers Hubert and JoHX Vax Evck (date 1432), celebrated all over Europe. The subject is the Adoration of the spotless Lamb. In the centre is seen the Lamb as described in the Revelations, surrounded by an- gels, and approached by worshippers in 4 gi-oups : on the rt. (of the spectator), above, the holy virgins and female saints ; below, the apostles and saints of the New Testament : on the 1. above, the bishops and founders of monastic orders, while below appear the pat- riarchs and prophets of the Old Testa- ment (W.J.F.) ; while in the horizon rise the Towers of the New Jerusalem, copied from some old Flomi'^h town. Two of the figures in the rt, hand corner of the pictui-e represent the brothers Van Eyck. More than 300 heads may be counted in this won- derful production, all finished with the most scrupulous minuteness. The upper part of the picture contains, in three compartments, the figures of God the Father, with John the Baptist on the one side, and the Virgin on the other. The beauty and grace of her countenance ai-e only surpassed, pro- bably, by some of the Madonnas of Raphael. Considering the period when it was painted, this pictiu-e is remarkably free fr-om the stiffiiess of the early school : the finish of the faces is most elaborate, and the strength and fi-eshness of the coloui's in a painting 400 years old is tnily wondeiiul. Sir Joshua says, " The figru-es are painted in a hard manner, but there is great character of truth and nature in the heads, and the landscape is well coloured." Two pairs of shutters or folding doors below, and two above, painted within and without, also by the Van Eycks, originally formed part of this pictiu-e. The whole was taken to Paris by Xa- poleon, but the centre portions alone have been restored. The 6 most im- portant of the wings are now in the Royal Museum at Berlin, having been originally bought by a pictiux'-dealer for 6000 fr. (250/.'), and aftei-wards sold for at least 10 times that sum to the King of Pnassia. The 2 exterior lower wings are said to be still in the possession of the chapter, but are shut up from motives of false delicacy, be- cause they represent Adam and Eve in a state of nature. 11. G. Hvnthorst — The Descent from the Cross ; and, at the side, (?. Crayer y the Ciiicifixion. 12. i\r. Boose — The Vii-gin, surrounded by Angels ; on the rt. is the monument of Bp. Van der Xoot, who is kneeling before the Virgin ; opposite is the monument of another bishop, who is represented meditating on the scourging of oiu' Lord. 13 contains a mastei-piece of Uvhem^ but not well preserved — St. Bavon renounc- ing the profession of a Soldier to enter the Convent of St. Amand as a Monk. D 3 42 ROUTE 21.— GHENT. CHURCHES. UNIVERSITY, Sect. I. The figure of the saint is said to ! be a portrait of the artist himself. *' This picture was formerly the orna- ment of the high altar of this cathedral, but was displaced to make room for an ordinary piece of sculpture. "S^Tien Rubens was thus degraded, one may ; conclude his fame was then not estab- lished: he had not been dead long enough to be canonised, as he may be said to be at present. The saint is re- presented in the upper part of the pic- ture, in. annour, kneeling, received by a priest at the door of a church : below is a man, who may be supposed to be his steward, giving money to the poor. , Two women are standing by, dressed in : the fashion of the times when Rubens | lived : one of them appears to be pulling off a chain, which falls from her neck, as if she intended to follow the example before her. This picture, for composi- ' tion, colouring, richness of effect, and all those qualities in which Rubens more particularly excelled, claims a rank i among his greatest and best works." — R. It was also carried to the Lom-re. 14. Otto Veani'cs — The Resurrection of ' Lazarus; very good, 15. Sefjhers — Martyrdom of St. Lieven. 16. A copy fi-om i?" -The Martyrdom of St. Catherine. 17. Opposite this chapel is the monument of Bishop Van Eersel. 18. M. Coexie—The Seven Works of Mercy. Descending again into the lower church, we reach the 20th chapel. Here stands the brazen font at which Charles V. was baptized. 20. G. Crcvjer — Assiimption of the Virgin. 21. G. Crvjcr — St. Macarius praying for those afflicted with the Plague, whilst he is himself struck by the PestUence ; a good picture. 22. H'cffel — St. Lambert car- rying coals on his Surplice to set fire to \ the Incense. 2.3. Romhouts -The De- scent from the Cross. j Under the choir is a low subter- ' ranean chapel, in one corner of which \ lie buried Hubert Yan Eyck and his ' sister, also a painter, who may be said to have been literally wedded to the ' art, since she rejected all offers of mar- riage in order to devote herself to it. ; This Cri^pt is reputed very ancient, but a large proportion of the low stumpy pillars are probably of the same age as the upper stnicture, and- added as sup- ports to it. St. Bavon suffered material injury from the fanatic depredations of the iconoclasts in 1.566; 400 of the lowest class of the people, entering the chiu-ch by night, commenced by torch- light the work of demolition, dashing the images and painted glass to pieces with their pole-axes, effacing the rich sculpture, and cutting the pictm^es to shreds. Within 3 or 4 days every church in Grhent shared a like fate. Philip II.'s vengeance, thus aroused, brought upon Belgium the curse of the Inquisition and the scourge of an .Alva: — confiscation, exile, or death, were the consequences. In the Ch"rch of Sf. Michael " is, or rather was, the celebrated Crucifixion of Vand'/k, for it is almost destroyed by cleaning. It appears, by what remains, to have been one of his most capital works. Vandyk has here introduced a most beautifid horse in an attitude of the utmost grace and dignity. This is the same horse on which he drew Charles V., which is in the galleiy at Florence ; the head of the emperor he coined from Titian." — R. The picture has been so much injured and repainted that its original merits can hardly be determined. It stands in the X. tran- sept, with a curtain before it. Xext to it is a modem picture by a Belgian, representing the finding of the Cross by the Empress Helena, Avhosc figure is a portrait of the Empress Josephine. There are numerous paintings by mo- dern Belgian artists in this church. The pulpit of carved mahogany, with a bas-relief of the Ascension, desers'cs notice. Opposite the X. door is the so-called House of Count Eijmonf, a fine example of the late flamboyant in domestic architectiu'c. The most ancient church in the town is that of -S"^. Nicholas^ though much altered by repairs, conflagrations, kc. The Universifjf is a triily handsome modem ediflce, with- a noble Corinthian portico, copied from the Pantheon at Rome, built partly on the site of a college of Jesuits. It was founded bv William I., King of Holland, m 1826. The entrance-hall, the staircase, and Bdgi EOUTE 21.— GHENT. H. DE YILLE. MARKET. 43 the amphitheatre, -vrhere academic ' meetings are held and the prizes are distributed, are very fine, exhibiting great taste, and reflecting the highest ; credit on the architect, M. Roclandts. The Museum of natiu'al histoiy is of considerable extent, -without any claim to great sxiperiority for its collections. The library amounts to 60,000 volimies. The nmuber of students is about 350. The entrance is behind, in the Eue Longue des Mai'ais. The Hotel de Vi/le, not far from the Belfiy, has two facades in totally dif- ferent stylos of architectm-e : having been built at inters'als between 14-82 ' and 1620, according to 3 or -4 diiferent plans, by as many architects : — one is "a florid mixture of French flam- boyant and English Tudor Gothic : the flat pointed arches are quite in the : English pattern." — F. S. The elegant tiuTct or tribune at the comer, with the part adjoining, in the richest flamboy- ant Gothic, is by Eustace Polleyt, j 1527-1560; the other fa9ade (1600-20), ; facing the Marche au Beurre, has colunms of 3 different orders one above another. The Congress of Confederates, who assembled in 1576 to expel the Spaniards from Belgium, sig-ned the treaty known in histoiy as the Pacifi- cation of Ghent in the Salle du Trone. The interior of the building contains one or two modem paintings, but is not | entitled to very great admii-ation. | The Cabinet of M. con Saceghem con- ! tains some very superior old paintings. , The Jfusewn or Acode/n>/, Bue St. ; ]\Iarguerite (entrance at the side of the Augustine Church, admission at all hours -with a fee), has no good pic- tures. These are the best : Rubens — St. Francis receiving the Stigmata, or 5 holy woimds ; fomierly in the Church ; of Becollets, where Sir J. E. saw it. ' lie says of the figure of St. Francis, ' that it'is " without dignity, and more he ought surely to be represented with like a beggar; "though his di-ess is mean, the dignity and simplicity of a saint. Upon the whole, Bubens woidd ap- pear to no great advantage in Ghent, if it was not for the picture in St. Bavon."— 21. The Last Judgmrnt. M. Coxie — The Emperor Charles "S". land- ing in Afiica. — Francis I., made pri- soner at Pavia, yields up his sword to De Lannoy, a Flemish knight. — ^^ Bough sketches executed with great boldness, and made by Gaspar de Grayer to decorate the arch of triumph, erected on the occasion of the visit of the Infant Ferdinand to Ghent. J. Jordaens — The Woman taken in Adulteiy. T. Duchatel — The Installation of the Em- peror Charles VI., 1668, as Count of Flanders, in the Marche au Yench-edi. A great nimiber of figures in the mamier of Tenicrs. A great part of the collec- tion consists of modem pictm-es. The Marche au Vend red i (Yrijdags Markt) is a large square siu-roimded by ancient houses, named from the day on which the market is held in it. The ceremonies of the inaugm-ation of the Counts of Flanders were celebrated on this spot with a pomp and splendoirr hardly to be conceived at present. Here also was the rendezvous of the " Trades Unions" of the middle ages, whenever a real or supposed breach of the privileges of their guilds or corpo- rations on the parts of theii- rulers ex- cited these tm'bulent spirits, " ccs tetes dures de Flandres," to rebellion. Here their standards were planted, aroimd which they rallied in arms. On this spot, Jacques van Artevclde, descended from one of the noblest jfamilies of Flanders, but called the Brewer of Ghent, because he had eiu'clled himself in the corporation of brewers to flatter the popular vanity by ranking himself among the people, at the head of his partisans, chiefly weavers, encoimtered the opposite faction of fullers, in a civic broil, with such bloodthirsty fmy, that the presence of the host, which was brought out upon the spot to separate the combatants, was disregarded, and 1500 coi"pses of citizens slain by fellow- citizens were left on the square. The day was afterwards maiked in the annals of the iovra as Evil Monday. It was in this place, 40 ycai's after, that Jacques's son, Philip van Artevelde, was saluted Ruwaert or Protector of Ghent, and received (1381) the oath of fidelity from his townsmen, M'hcn called upon to lead tlum against their oppressor, Louis de Mule. The story J 44 PvOUTE 21. — GHENT. VAN ARTEVELDE. Sect. I. of Tan Artevelde is told in Henr^^ j Taylor's drama. ^ j in the Marclie au Ycndredi, also, at i a later period, under tlie Duke of Alva, I were lighted the fires of the Inqiiisi-- , tion. Many thousands perished during those religious persecutions, ^vhich dis- persed the best and most industrious j citizens of Ghent over other lands, and '•• struck a fatal blow at her commercial j pojperity. — In a street close to the | Mai-che, called the Mannekens Aert, is \ an enoi-mous cannon, one of the largest j in existence, being 18 ft. long and lOi t in circumference, named Be duUe Griete, \ or Mad Margeiy ; it is of hammered iron, ' was made in the days of Philip le Bon, ' and used by the Gantois at the siege of Oudenarde, 1.382, and again in 1452^. | In the Place St. Pharailde, near the | Marche aux Pois-sons, still stands the '. old tuiTeted gat-eway, called the Oude-. Jpirg, or 's Gmxenstee/i, the Count's \ Stone {i. e. castle), a relic of the castle of the Counts of Flanders, built by Baldwin Bras de Fer, 868. The small i portion that remains of the building, I consisting of an old archway and turret, I is now incorporated in a cotton factor}', i The area ^vithin Is occupied by houses j of the meanest kind. It deserves to be | visited, however, as one of the oldest existing buildings in Belgium, and the i interior contains some curio\i5 vestiges of its ancient origin. In the years 1338-9 it was the residence of Edward III. and his family ; and his (^ueen Philippa here gave birth to a son, who i was called, from his birth-pla^e, John i of G^xmt. An intimate alliance ex-^ , isted for many years between the men [ of Ghent, or Gtaunt, and the English, pai-ticularly dimng the . reigns of the Edwards. The Flemings were deeply ^ interested in procuring our wool for j their cloths; the English sovereigns, ' on the other hand, were glad to secure : "the good towns" and weavers of: Flanders as aUies to assist them in . their designs upon the cro"WTi of France, and threatened to prohibit the exporta- . tion of wool when the men of Gaimt opposed their wishes, or refused to em- , brace their cause. Jacques van Artevelde, the BrcAver ! of Ghent, was a faithfid ally of Edward [ III., who used familiarly to call him " his dear gossip ;" and the Queen Philippa stood godmother to his son Philip. It was at his suggestion that Edward assumed the title of King of France, and quartered the fleurs de lis with the arms of England, from which they were not removed tiU the end of the last cent. The English connection was in the end fatal to Jacques, and led to his being killed by the citizens whom he had so often led as easily as sheep, by his talents, courage, and eloquence. In 13.44 Edward III. crassed over to Sluis at the in'^itation of Jacques, who, relying on his influ- ence with the citizens, had promised to make him lord and heritor of Flanders, But this projx)sal was distastefid to the men of Ghent, who were unwilling to disinherit their natiu-al lord ; and, dur- ing Van Artevelde' s aljscnce to confer with Edward, the popular discontent against him, increased by nmiours that, diiring his administration of the affairs of Flanders,^ he had secretly sent largo sums of money out of the country to England, was excited in a high degree, and " set them of Gaunt on fire." " As he rode into the town about noon, they of the town knew of his coming, and many were assembled together in the street where he should pass, and when they saw him they began to mui-mur, and to nm together their heads in one hood, and said, ' Behold yonder great master who will order aU Flanders after his pleasure, the which is not to be suffered.' As he rode through the street he perceived that there was some new matter against him, for he saw such as were wont to make reverence to him as he came by turn their backs towards him and enter into theii* houses. Then he began to doubt, and as soon as he was alighted in his lodg- ing he closed fast his doors, gates, and windows. This was scant done but aU the street was full of men, and espe- cially those of the small crafts, who assail<:-d his house both behind and be- fore." Though stoutly resisted, their numbers prevailed. Artevelde in vain addressed them from an upper window ; the eloquent tongue was now little heeded in the frenzy of popular excite- Belgium. ment. " Wlieii Jacques saw tliat he coiild not appease them, he dre-w in his head and closed the window, and so thought to steal out on the backside into a church that joined his house, but it was so bi'okeij that 400 persons were entered in,, and finally there he was taken and slain without mercy, and one Thomas Denys gave him. his death stroke." — Froissart^ A metal shield on the balcony of a house near the cor- ner of the Place du Calendi-e marks the scene of his murder.. Van Artevelde's house was situated in the Padden Hoek (Toad's Cornei:). Many militaiy and coromercial ti^eaties were made with the English by both the Arteveldos : they aided each other with troops on land" and ships at sea ; and the connection between the two countries was not finally broken off until the time of Philip the Bold. The marriage of the Grand Duke Maximilian with Mary of Burgundy, heiress of Charles the Bold^ was cele- brated at Ghent 1477. By this alliance the Low Countries were added to the Austrian dominions. A short time be- fore it took place the famous Oliver the Barber, called Le Diable, was despatched by his master, Louis XL.,, to. obtaiji the hand of Mary for his son, or, failing in this, to stir up rebellion among the men of Ghent. His mission failed, hi^ in- trigues were frustrated,, and he was dis- missed with disgi-ace^ after having im- prudently demanded a, private audience with the princess, which her council of state refused, alleging the laws of eti- quette, and even of decency, forbade such an interview with " cette jeune demoiselle qui etoit a marier." The Empr. Charles V., was born at Ghent, in the palace now pulled down, l)ut its site is marked by a street najiied after it, Cour des Princes. It is related that he first saw the light in a water- closet, which ignoble birth-place Avas afterwai-ds handsomely furnished and ti'ansformed into a splendid apartment.. The tui'bulence and sedition of his sub- jects and fellow-citizens of Ghent re- peatedly gave annoyance to Charles, till at length a more formidable in.surrec- tion broke out, which, spreading through Flanders, threatened to sever the pro- ROUTE 2 L — GHENT. CHARLES V. 45 vince from his dominions. It originated in the discontent caused by his demand of an enormous «.ibsidy from the citizens to carry on the v': Cassino, a handsome build- ing by Roelauds, stands also near the Coupiu-e, and is well worth notice. It has a literaiy and scientific, as well as a social destination. Exhibitions of flowers take place in the lower apart- ments. The Kanter (a Flemish word signi- fying a field), or Place d'Ai'mes, within the town, is a large square planted with trees, and suiTounded by large build- ings, among them 3 Clubs — of the mili- tary, nobles, and merchants. Amilitaiy band usually plays here on summer evenings. The BouJetards around the to-rni, anciently the ramparts, are also agTceable walks. On the Quai aux Herbes stands the Maison des Batelicrs, the oldest house, and perhaps the most picturesque, in Ghent, having the date 1513. The insignia of the wateiTuen's craft (whose guild was held here) are carved on its gables (§ 25). Hubert Tan Eyck, the painter, lived in a house at the corner of the Eue des Caches and the Marche aux Oiseanx, near the Kauter : it has received a modem front. A splendid collection of enamelled stone tcare (Gres dc Flandre), and of German and Venetian glass, belonging to the family Il'njvetter, is well worth a "visit. Paie ilautc Porte, near H. de "N'iUe. Several buildings recently erected by the tovm of Ghent M-ould do credit to the first capitals of Europe. A Xe'i: Theatre has been built in the comer of the Place d'Armes. Its sa- loon, concert and ball-rooms are mag- nificent, and they are well worth a 'S'isit. "The building cost the town of Ghent 2,500,000 fr. The Palais de Justice, another striking new building by Eoelands, stands in the Rne du Theatre, a new and handsome street. The ground floor serves as the Exchange ; the upper chambers are appropriated as coiuls of justice. The Jardin des Plantes, belonging to the University, said to be the finest in Eelgium, is far from deserving the praise commonly given to it. The Post Office is in the Piue de I'Universite. Vigilantes, § 22. A. The modern Citadel, begun 1822, and finished 1830, is situated on Mont Blandin, which is the end of the high land on which the western part of the city stands. It is one of the chain of fortresses defending the Belgian frontier, and commands the coxirse of the Schelde and Lys. Ghent communicates with the sea by a grand Canal which enters the Schelde at Temeuse. It gives the city all the advantages of a seaport ; vessels draw- ing 18 ft. water can iinload in the basin luider its walls. At Sas van Ghent, about 14 m. ]S'., are sluices, by means of which the whole coimtry could be laid under water. Eailroad. — Ghent to Courtrai and Lille (on the way to Paris). Ete. 15. Eailroad, Ghent to Mecldin, 56 kilom. Trains in 1^ hr. On quitting Ghent the Eailway crosses the Schelde, and is carried along the S. side of it, ap- proaching now and then one of its sweeping curves. 7 Melle Stat. 7 Wettcren Stat. 9000 inhab. 6 "NYichelcn Stat. 7 Audeghem Stat. Alost is 3 m. from this Stat. : omnibuses ply thither, meeting the trains (see E. 19, p. 30). The river Dcnder is crossed on leav- ing the station. 2 Dendcrmonde Stat. {Inns: Aigle; 48 21 A. BRUGES TO COURTRAI. 22. GHEXT TO ANTWERP. Sect. I. Demi-Lune.) Termonde, or Dendeu- MOXDE, a name rendered familiar to English ears by "my Uncle Toby's" constant reference to the siege of 1706, is a primitive Brabant towTi of 8000 inhab. and a strong foitress on the rt. bant of the Schelde, at its junction with the Dender. By means of sluices the suiTounding countiy, which is marshy, can be laid under water. Louis XIV., who had been nearly drowned, along with his army, in attempting its siege in 1667, when told that Marlborough was about to besiege it, replied, " he must have an army of ducks to take it." Nevertheless, owing to the prevalence of a drought of 7 weeks, the garrison were quickly obliged to surrender un- conditionally to the English. The Ch. of Not re Dame, the oldest building, sur- mounted by an octagon tower, contains a Crucifixion and Adoration of the Shep- herds, by VanDijk; a Virgin and Saints by Cra>/er: and an ancient font &culi>ture"d in the style of that at Winchester^ out of a square block. The house of Teniers is still pointed out. 9 Malderen Stat. 10 Capelle-aux-Bois Stat. The Brus- sels canal is crossed just aft«r leaving this station. The Louvain canal is crossed shortly before the railway reaches 8 Meciilix Stat. (See Rte. 23.) ROUTE 21 A. BRUGES TO COURTRAI. — RAILWAY. Bruges. (Rte. 21.) Station the same as that of the Ghent and Ostcnd Rail- way. Trains in 2 hrs.. ; many stops. Thorfjut Stat. Thorout stands in a fertile country.. A little coarse woollen cloth and much excellent lace are manu- factuix'd here. Two annual fairs in Jime and July are held here. It is a very ancient to-mi,, and at the beginning of the eighth cent, is mentioned as a place of considerable traffic. It has a small Stadhnis and a large collegiate church, but neither remarkable. Kear it is the Castle of Wynendale, once a hunting-scat of Robert the Frison, 10th Earl of Flanders (1090),. and said to have been built by Odoacer V., Grand Forester of Flanders, in the early part of the 9th cent. Here the Bp. of Lincoln and his fellow- commissioner, sent by Edward I. (1297), negotiated the maiTiages of Edward P. of "NYales and the daughter of Philip King of France^ and of Edward himself and the sister of that monarch. Lichtei-velde Stat. Roulers (Rousselaere, Flem.) Stat. This town is seated on a smaller sti-eam, called the Maader,. amidst veiy fine meadows. In ancient records it is called Eollarinm in pratis. The Stadhvis is a long ancient building in the market- place, in the middle of the to-s^-n. It has a large square tower, apparently more ancient than the body of the building, at its S. end, and a slender but graceful miniature spire in its centre. The Ch. of St. Michael is a plain and rather small structure, with a verj' beautiful spire. It stands to the rear of the "NV, side of the market-place ; its date must be about the beginning of the 16th cent. Some of the best lace in Flanders is manufactured at Roulers, and a small quantity of woollen stuff". Iseghem Stat. The Lys is crossed. Courtrai Stat. (See Rte. 16.) ROUTE 22. GHENT TO ANTWERP, — RAILROAD. 31 Eng. m., 2 hrs., including ferry. The road passes through the Faf/s de Waes^ one of the most populous districts, the best cultivated,, and the most pro- ductive for its extent in all Europe. At the time of the ci\'il wars in Flanders it was nothing more than a bare and open heath. At present there is not an inch of gi-ound which is not rendered productive in the highest degree : every field receives as much care and atten- tion as a garden, or a bed of tulips ; and the natural soil, little better than ban-cn sand, has been covered artificially with the richest mould. (See Holland, In- trod. § 17.) Though the country is flat, it is far from im^interesting, being varied with large villages and neat farms, Belgium. covered with beautiful cattle, the richest and closest fields of com or crops of flax, and inhabited by a healthy popu- lation. The district of St. Nicholas, perhaps the most thickly peopled in Eui'ope in proportion to its extent, numbers 5210 inhab. upon every square league. The mode of faiTuing pursued in this district is worthy the attention of every agriculturist. Such a pattern of laborious cultivation is not to be foimd in the whole of Europe. The land is singularly subdivided among a great nmnber of small proprietors. In a distance of 30 kilometres, 705 plots, belonging to 500 difierent persons, are crossed. Each holding averages | of a hectare, and is surrounded by hedges and trees. The castle of Looehristy, not far to the X. of the road, is an interesting specimen of the domestic architecture of the 16th cent. It is surrounded by a wide moat, approached by a draw- bridge. It was once a himting-seat of the Bishops of Ghent. Bienvelde Stat. Loheren Stat. (//?■«, Quatre Sceaux), a to^^-n of 16,50ulnhab. There are extensive bleaching-groimds here. St. Xicholas Stat. {Inn, H. de Flan- dres), 20,500 Inhab.,. said to have the largest market of flax in the world. Its great square is scarcely big enough to hold the crowd assembled on market- days. ' Beveren Stat. i Beyond the neat village of Zwyn- drecht, the cathedi-al of Antwerp comes in sight. For S years the whole dis- trict, and even the high road, lay many feet under water, inti'oduced by cutting the dykes above the- Tete de Flandre during the siege of ^intwei-p. 12 Dutch \ gun-boats floated over the polders, or fields, which are many feet lower than the level of the river at high-water. The coming and receding tides covered ; the smface with sand ; and the gi'ound, saturated Muth salt water, and deprived of all vegetation, for a long time re- mained a ban-en morass, interspersed with pools. The industrious efibrts of the o-vvners have made som^ progress in | reclaiming from the condition of an im- productive waste this territory, which, ROUTE 22. — GHEXT TO ANTAVERP. 49 j owing to its natm-al fertility and its ■sdcinit^' to a large city, was of very great value. Near Antwerp the Schelde makes so great a bend as to convert its 1. bank into a tongue of land. The only ap- proach to Antwerp on this side lies along the top of the dykes which inter- sect the low polders, and di^dde them from one another and fi'om the Schelde. At the extremity of this tongue of land is situated the Fort called ; Tete de Flandre (bet "\1aemsche ; Hoofd), Terminus, on the 1. bank of i the river, exactly opposite Antwei-p, ^ foiTaing a principal outwork and tete du pont to that fortified to-^Ti. It con- tains a few small houses within its ram- I pai-t. Napoleon considered its situation more advantageous than even that of Antwerp, and designed to foimd a new city here. See p. 61. The Ghent railway station is here ; the passengers and private carriages are embarked iir a steam feiry-boat, which plies across the Schelde every i hr. I The best view of Antwerp is obtained from this point. The Schelde is nearly 500 yards wide here, and is deep enough ! for a 74-g\m ship. The " coupm-e," or ; cutting of the dyke, by which the Dutch laid the land on the 1. bank under water, was made a little way above the Tete de Flandre, opposite the citadel. The repairs of this breach cost 2 millions of francs. Antwerp (French, Axvers ; Flem. Antwerpex ; Span. Amberes). Lms : Hotel St. Antoine, the best, well managed and much commended; tables-d'hote at 2 and 4| ; good, and respectably at- tended; — H. du Pare, also good : these 2 hotels are on the Place Verte, near the cathedral ; — 11. de Eubens, good. 2nd cla*s Inns : H. des Pays-Bas ; H. du Ehin ; H. des Etrangers, on the Quai; H. d'Angleterre. Antwci-p is a sti'ongly fortified city, with a citadel, on the rt. bank of the Schelde (L'Escaut, Fr..), which is here navigable for vessels of large biuden ; the tide rises 12 ft., and the water is brackish. The most probable and sim- ple derivation of the name is from the Flemish words " aen't werf," on the wharf, or quay. Antweii) contains 50 ROUTE 22. ANTWERP : ITS DECAY. Sect. I. 90,000 inliab. In the height of its splendour and prosperity, that is to say, in the 16th cent., it is said to have numbered 200,000, but it was then the richest and most commercial city in Europe. Its merchants, indeed, were princes in wealth, and their houses splendid palaces. Xo city of Belgium presents grander streets and squares, the finest of which is the Place de Meii- ; and its magnificent line of Quwjs along the Schelde arc unrivalled in the coim- tiy. The cathedral, near the centre of the town, is siuTOunded by several open squares, but there is a want of a main street between it, the Place de Meir, and the Schelde, to pierce the inter- vening stacks of biiildings intersected by an intricate labyrinth of naiTOw lanes, inhabited by the lower orders. An old author, describing the condition of Antwei-p in the days of Charles V. , says that 2500 vessels were sometimes seen at one time lying in the river, laden ■vvith the productions of aU quarters of the globe : 500 loaded waggons on an average entered its gates daily from the country. The money put into circula- tion annually exceeded 500,000,000 guilders, and 5000 merchants met twice every day on the Exchange. The decay and fall of its prosperity is to be traced to the tyranny of the cruel Alva, under the directions of his bigoted master, Philip II. of Spain. The establishment of the Inquisition by him, and the persecutions occasioned by it, drove thousands of industrious in- habitants to seek an asylum elsewhere. To this persecution England is indebted for her silk manufactmx's, A^-hich were introduced by Flemish refugees fi-om Antwei-p, in the reign of Elizabeth. Another blow to its prosperity was the memorable siege of 14 months in 1585, which ended in its captiu'e by the Duke of Parma, one of the most memorable exploits of modem warfiu-e, whether we consider the strength of the place, the hearty resistance offered by the citizens, who yielded at last only when stai'ved out by famine, or the political consequences resulting from it. (See p. 29.) Then came the loss of the na^-igation of the Schelde, which fell into the hands of the Dutch at the union of the Seven United Provinces ; and the subsequent closing of the river by the peace of Westphalia, 1648, com- pleted its commercial i-uin, from which it was only beginning to recover ^A'hen the Eevolution of 1830 broke out. In consequence of that event, the most profitable commerce which Antwerp carried on with the Dutch colonies is annihilated ; the richest merchants have quitted it, repairing to Rotterdam or Amsterdam ; its manufactures are nearly ruined, its docks comparatively empty, and its streets deserted. Within the last few years it has recovered a part of its former prosperity. Antwerp enjoys a high reputation from its encom-agement of the arts, and the eminent artists it has produced. It would be sufficient to mention the gi'cat names of Eubens (who lived here, and whose parents were of Antwcrj)), and of Vandyck, without alluding to others also great in their way, as Teniers, Jor- daens, Quentin Matsys, iS:c., who were aU natives of Antsvei-p or its neighbour- hood. Trade and commerce have, in- deed, deserted it, but their consequences, in a variety of instances, particularly in the great works of art produced here, stiU. remain behind : the power and genius of Pubens especially, Avhose masterpieces still exist here, are no- where else to be equally understood and appreciated. The Academy or Corpo- ration of St. Luke, in this city, for the encouragement of painting, was one of the oldest societies of the kind in Eu- rope ; it was foimded in 1454 by Philip the Good, and endowed by Philip IV, of Spain, and may be regarded as the cradle of the Flemish school. A colossal statx'e of Bnhens, by Geefs, a native of Antwerp, has been erected on the Place Yeite, in front of The Cathedral of Xotre Dame^ one of the largest churches and most beautiful specimens of Gothic architectm^e in the Netherlands. It is believed to have been commenced in the middle of the 13th cent., and to have taken 84 years to finish. It was bimit in 1533, but the tower and choir were preserved. It was rebuilt the following year. The interior is simple and imposing : it is 500 ft. long and 250 -wide, and the BeJgii ROUTE 22. — A>;TWEKr. Cathedral, 51 effect of the vastness of its lofty choir | and nave, ^-\\h treble aisles on each side, is assisted by its being all finished on the same nnifonn plan, and left open. It was sacked by the fanatic iconoclasts in 1566, when its rich altars, ornaments, and sculptures, were either burned or carried off. In the choir a chapter of the Golden Fleece was held in 1555 by Philip II. of Spain, at which nine kings and sovereign pi'inces were present, and assisted as kmghts of the order. The great attraction in this church is the masterpiece of Rubens — the Descent from the Cross. It hangs in the S. transept, near the door leading out of the Place Verte. On one of the lateral pieces or folding doors is represented ; the Salutation of the Yh-gin ; on the I other the Presentation of the Infant i Jesus in the Temple ; and on the back of them are a colossal figiu-e of St. I Christopher canying the infant Savioiu', | and a hermit, " This picture, of all the works of Eubens, is that which has the most reputation. I had consequently con- ceived the highest idea of its excellen- cies ; knowing the print, I had formed in my imagination what such a compo- sition would produce in the hands of such a painter. I confess I was disap- pointed. IIoAvever, this disappointment did not proceed from any deficiency in the pictm-e itself; had it been in the original state in which Rubens left it, it must have appeared very different ; but it is mortifying to sec to what de- gree it has suffered by cleaning and mending. That brilliant effect, which it luidoubtedly once had, is lost in a mist of varnish, which appeai-s to be '. chilled or mildewed. The Christ is in many places retouched, so as to be visible at a distance ; the St. John's head repainted ; and other parts, on a close inspection, appear to be chipping off, and ready to fall from the canvas. However, there is enough to be seen to satisfj' any comioisseui' that in its per- fect state it well deserved all its repu- tation. " The composition of this pictiu-e is said to bo boiTOwcd from an Italian print. The greatest peculiarity of this composition is the contrivance of ihe white sheet on which the bod}- of Jesus lies : this cu'cumstance was probably what induced Eubens to adopt the com- position. He well knew what effect white linen, opposed to flesh, must have, with his powers of colouring, — - a cii'cumstance which was not likely to enter into the mind of an Italian painter,* who probably would have been afraid of the linen's hurting the coloming of the flesh, and have kept it clown by a low tint. And the tiixth is, that none but gi-eat coloiuists can ven- tiu-e to paint piu-e white linen near flesh ; but such know the advantage of it. I consider Rubens' s Christ as one of the finest figiu'cs that ever was in- vented ; it is most correctly drawn, and, I apprehend, in an attitude of the ut- most difficulty to execute. The hang- ing of the head on his shoulder, and the falling of the body on one side, give it such an appearance of the hea-viness of death, that nothing can exceed it. " Of the three Maries, two of them have more beauty than he generally be- stowed on female figures, but no gi'eat elegance of character. The St. Joseph of Aiimathea is the same countenance which he so often introduced in his works — a smooth, fat face, — a very im- historical character. The principal light is formed by the body of Christ and the white sheet ; there is no second light which bears any proportion to the prin- cipal. In this respect it has more the manner of Rembrandt's disposition of light than any other of Rubens' s works ; however, there are many detached lights distributed at some distance from the gi'cat mass, such as the head and shoiflders of the Magdalen, the heads of the two Maries, the head of St. Joseph, and the back and aiTn of the figm-e leaning over the cross ; the whole sur- rounded with a dark sky, except a little light in the horizon and above the cross. " The historical anecdote relatmg to * Rubens probably obtained the idea of this picture from a celebrated one of the same sub- ject, in the chureli of tlie I'rinita de' Monti at Rome, by Daniel di Voiterra, who was assisted in it l)y Nlichael Anirelo . there is considerable similaiity in the two work^. 52 EOUTE 22. ANTWERP. CATHEDRAL. Sect. I. this picture says that it ^vas given in exchange lor a piece of ground (belong- ing to the guild of Arquebusiers) on which Eubcns built his house ; and that the agreement was only for a picture representing their patron, St. Chiisto- { pher, with the inifant Christ on his } shoulders. Rubens, who wished to sur- ■ prise them by his generosity, sent 5 pictures instead of 1, — a piece of gal- lantry on the side of the painter which was -undoubtedly well received by the Arquebusiers, since it was so much to , their advantage, however expensive to i the maker of it. It was undertaken '' 1611, and set up 1612. All those pic- [ tures were intended to refer to the name ; of their patron Clirlstopher, " In the first place, the body of Chi-ist on the altar is borne by St. John, St. Joseph of Ai-imathea, Mary Magda- len, &c. On one side of the left door is the Salutation of Mary and Eli;5abeth. j The Virgin here Ix-ars Chi'ist before he j is bom." — Pi. ! The two doors when closed fonn a single xjicture, representing St. Christo- : pher himself beai'ing the Infant on his j shoulders, guided by the light of a hermit's lantern. " The hermit appears to be looldng to the other side ; one hand holds the lantern, and the other is very naturally held up to prevent the light from coming upon his eyes. On the reverse of this door we have an- other Christopher, the priest Simeon ! bearing Christ high in his arms, and looking upwards. This picture, which ; has not suffered, is admirable indeed, the head of the priest more especially, which nothing can exceed ; the expres- : sion, ch-awing, and colouring are beyond all description, and as fi-esh as if the piece were just painted. The eoloming i of the St. Christopher is too red and ! bricky, and the outline is not flowing. '■ This figiu-e was all that the company of \ the Arquebusiers expected ; but Rubens justly thought that such a figure M'ould i have" made but a poor subject for an ■ altar."— 7?. | This picture was taken by the French to Paris, and while there underwent a ; very judicious reparation and cleaning ; i so that it is probably in far better con- dition now than when seen by Sir | Joshua. At any rate, it is the opinion of the best judges that his praise of this truly wonderful pictxxre is on the whole too qualified. He has omitted to men- tion the weU-known story of the share which Tandy ck is said to have had in the painting. ^Tiile the w-ork was in progress, and during the absence of Rubens, the picture was thro^\Ti down by accident or carelessness of his pupils, and received serious injury in the fall. Vandyck was selected as the most skilful hand among them to repair the damage, and succeeded so well, that Rubens, on his return, declared that he preferred his scholar's work to his ovrn. The ixirts restored by him were the cheek and chin of the Vii-gin, and the arm of the Magdalen. In the opposite or X, transept is the Elecation of the Cross, " the first public work which JRubens executed after he returned from Italy. In the centre is Christ nailed to the cross, with a num- ber of figures exerting themselves in different wa\-s to raise it. One of the- fig\u-es appears flushed, all the l^lood rising into his face from his violent efforts ; others in intricate attitudes, which, at the same time that they show the great energy with which the busi- ness is done, give that opportunity M-hich painters desire, of encountering the difficiilties of the art, in foreshort- ening and in representing momentary actions. This subject, which was pro- bably of his own choosing, gave him an admirable oppm-tunity of exhibiting his various abilities to his coujitrymen ; and it is certainly one of his best and most animated compositions. " The bustle which is in every part of the pictin-e makes a fine contrast to the character of resignation in the cru- cified Savioui-. The sway of the body of Christ is extremely well imagined. The taste of the form in the Christ, as well as in the other figures, must be acknowledged to be a little inclinable to the hea-s-y, but it has a noble, free, and flowing outline. The invention of throwing the cross obliquely from one comer of the pictiu'e to the other is finely conceived — something in the manner of Tintoret : it gives a new and uncommon air to his subject, and we Belgium. EOUTE 22. AXTAVEEP. CATHEDRAL. 53 may justly add that it is imcommonly beautiful. The contrast of the body with the legs is admirable, and not overdone. " The doors arc a continuation of the subject. That on the right has a group of women and children, who appear to feel the greatest emotion and horror at the sight : the Virgin and St. John, who are behind, appear very properly with more resignation. On the other door are the officers on horseback at- tending ; behind them are the two thieves, whom the executioners are nailing to the cross. "It is difficult to imagine a subject better adapted for a painter to exhibit his art of composition than the present ; at least Rubens has had the skill to make it serve, in an eminent degree, for that pm-pose. In the naked figui-es of the Chi-ist and of the executioners he had ample room to show his know- ledge of the anatomy of the himian body in different characters. There are likewise women of different ages, which is always considered as a necessary part of every composition in order to pro- duce variety ; there ai-e, besides, chil- di-en and horsemen ; and, to have the M'hole range of variety, he has even added a dog, M'hich he has introduc-ed in an animated attitude, with his mouth open, as if panting ; admirably well painted. His animals are always to be adniired ; the horses here ai-e perfect in theii- kind, of a noble character, ani- mated to the highest degree. Eubens, conscious of his powers in painting horses, inti'oduced them in his pictui-es as often as he could. This part of the work, where the horses are represented, is by far the best in regai'd to colom-ing ; it has a freshness which the other two pictiu-es want ; but those appeal' to have suffered by the sun. '' The central picture, as well as that of the group of women, does not, for whatever reason, stand so high for co- lom- as every other excellence. There is a drj-ncss in the tint ; a yellow-ochrey coloiu: predominates over the whole ; it has too much the appearance of a yel- low chalk dra^ving. I mean only to compare Rubens with himself: they might lio thought excellent, even in ! this respect, were they the work of ! almost any other painter. The flesh, as I well as the rest of the pictm-e, seems to j want gi-ey tints, which is not a general ' defect of Rubens ; on the contrary, his I mezzotints are often too grey. " The blue drapery about the middle of the figiu-e at the bottom of the cross, and the grey colour of some armour, are nearly ail the cold colom'S in the picture, which ai-e certainly not enough to qualif\' so large a space of wami colours. The principal mass of light is on the Christ's body; but, in order to enlarge it and improve its shape, a strong light comes on the shoulder of the figure M-ith a bald head : the form of this shoulder is somewhat defective ; it appeai-s too roimd. " Upon the whole, this picture must be considered as one of Rubens' s piin- cipal works." — R. It was executed in 1610, and retouched in 1627 by the painter, who added the Newfoimdland dog at that time. A commission was appointed in March, 1849, to superin- tend the restoration of these two works of Rubens — the Descent from the Cross and the Crucifixion. Over the high altar of the choir, which is veiy splendid, hangs a third of Rubens' s most famous pictiu'es. The Assumption of the Virgin. " She is sur- roimded by a choir of angels; below are the apostles and a great nimiber of figiu-es. This picture has not so rich an appearance in regard to colour as many other pictures of Rubens ; pro- ceeding, I imagine, from there being too much blue in the sky : however, the loAver part of the picture has not that defect. It is said to have been painted in 1 6 days " — E. — for 1600 \ florins ; Rubens' s usual terms being at j the rate of 100 florins a-day. The Resurrection of our Saeiour, by 1 Enbc/is (in a small chapel S. of the i choir), painted by him to adorn the j tomb of his friend Moretus the printer. I '' An admirable pictm-e, about half the i size of life ; Christ coming out of the sepulchre in great splendovu, the sol- I diers tenifiod, and timibling one over j the other; the Chi-ist is finely drawn, j and of a rich colour. The St. John I the Baptist on the door is likewise in 54 ROUTE 22. — ANTWERP. CATHEDRAL. STEEPLE. Sect. I. Lis Lest manner, only his left leg is i something too large. On the other door | is St. Barbara ( ? St. Catherine) ; the j figm-e without character, and the co- louring without brilliancy. The pre- dominant colour in her di-ess is pmi^le, j which has a heavy effect." — R. Some j cmious pictures by Otto Vennius, lately discovered within one of the pillars ! near the roof, now hang in the small ; chapels. The Keio Stalls in the choir, designed by Professor Geerts, of Louvain, and executed by Durlet, of exquisite Gothic tabernacle work, foliage, «fec., inter- spersed with figm-cs of saints, apostles, and scriptural groups, are remai'kable for their elaborate execution. Only about I of them are fully completed; the figures occasionally betray rather a pedantic affectation of an archaic style, in long, lean forms, and stiff angidar di-apery. The Pulpit, carv^ed in wood by Ver- hrudfjen, is a singvdar and tasteless piece of workmanship, representing Europe, Asia, Africa, and Aniei-ica; while the upper part consists of twining shi-ubs, and interlaced branches of trees, M'ith various bii-ds — mostly of species un- known in nature — mere fanciful inven- tions of the artist, perched upon them. Some of the confessionals are also by Yerbruggen, as well as several tombs and statues of marble in the choir ; and the chapel of the Holy Sacrament con- tains an altar carved by him. In the chapel of St. Antoine is a painting by the younger Franch, of our Saviom- disputing with the Doctors, among whom the painter has introduced portraits of Luther, Calvin, Erasmus, and other reformers. " There are some fine heads in this picture, particularly the three men that are looking on one book are admirable characters ; the figures are well drawn and well gi-oupcd ; the Christ is but a poor figure." — R. The Steeple, one of the loftiest in the world, 403 English ft. 7 in. high, is of such beautiful and delicate Gothic workmanship as to have caused the Empr. Charles V, to say it desei-ved to be kept in a case ; while, from the minuteness of the carved work, Napo- leon compared it to Mechlin lace. It was begun by the architect Jan Ame- lius 1422, and completed by Appclmans, of Cologne, 1518. It is not, however, to be regarded as a structure solely of stone, but rather as a framework of iron bars, with bits of stone strung upon them like beads, held together by copper bolts, the gaps and interstices being filled up with plaster, and the joints partly covered with lead. The founda- tions of the tower descend many feet below the ground. It has been care- fully repaired and restored at great cost. According to the original design, it was intended to raise both towers to the same height. In the tower vrhich is completed there is a very extensive set of chimes, composed of 99 bells and one veiy large bell, at the baptism of which the Empr. Charles Y. stood god- father. It requires 16 men to ring it. The view from the upper gallery takes in the towers of Bergen-op - Zoom, Flushing, Breda, Mechlin, Brussels, and Ghent. It commands the coui-sc of the Schelde, the position of the citadel, i Antwei-p itself, and the suiTOimding I fortifications, with the entire theatre of I the military^ operations of the French j and Dutch m 1832 and 1833. (See pp. 49 and 61.) I Dm'ing the partial bombardment of the town from the citadel in 1830, Gen. Chasse's artillerymen knocked off one or two small pinnacles of the steeple, and several shells fell into the houses immediately aroimd the cathedral, and are preserved to this day as memorials. The tower-keeper (concierge) receives 75 c. for 1 person, 1 fr. for 2, and 1 fr. 50 c. for 3 or more. Near the foot of the tower is an old draw-well, covered with an elegant Gothic canopy of iron, which deserves notice as the work of Qaenti.i Matsys, the blacksmith of Antwerp, vrho, hav- ing fallen in love with the daughter of a painter, changed his profession to ob- tain her father's consent to their mar- riage, and succeeded even better with the palette and pencil than he had at the forge and hammer, as his great work in the Museum here will testify. The figure which sunnoimts the gracefid canopy of Gothic iron- work is a knight BeJgit ROUTE 22. — ANTWERP. CHURCHES. 56 in armoiu', 'with a glove in his hand, probably having reference to the glove- market, T^'hioh was once held on this spot. At the side of the AY. door of the Cathedi'al is a tablet to his memoiy, Avith this Latin verse — Connubialis Amor de Muliebre fecit Apellem. " 'Twas love connubial taught the smith to paint."— L.F.m, The original tablet has been removed to the Muscxmi. His body, \\'hich was inten-ed at his death in a chmx-h which the Spaniards pidled down to make way for the citadel, was re-interred in 1629, at the foot of the spire, on the 1. hand of the entrance. St. Jacques is a very handsome chm-ch, even more splendid than the cathedral in its internal decorations of marbles, painted glass, cai-ved wood, and fine monuments. The principal families of the to^^-n had their bui-ial vaults, private chapels, and altars in this church. The most remarkable is that which belonged to the family of Rubens, situated exactly behind the high altar. The tomb of the great painter is covered by a slab of white marble, bearing a long inscrip- j tion, let into the pavement of the chapel. In 1 793, when every other tomb in the chiu'ch was broken open and pillaged by the revolutionary French, this alone was spared. The altar-piece in this chapel was painted for it by Eubens, and is considered one of his best and most pleasing works. It is a Holy Family, in v^hich he has introduced his own portrait as St. George, those of his two wives as Martha and Mary Mag- dalen, his father as St. Jerome, his aged grandfather as Time, and his son as an Angel ; one of the female heads is said to be the same as that called the Chapeau de Paille. Sir Joshua says of it, " For oifect of coloiu- this yields to none of liubens's works, and the characters have more beauty than is common with him. To the painter who wishes to become a colourist, or learn the art of producing a brilliant effect, this pictm-e is as well worth studying as any in Antwerp. It is as bright as if the sun shone upon it." The white marble statue of the Virgin, above the picture, of beautiful work- ] manship, executed by Du Qnesnoy, was [ brought from Italy by Rubens himself. The entrance to St. Jacques is in the Longue Rue Xeuve : the best time for visiting it is between 12 and 4i, when there is no service ; the presence of the koster must be secured to unlock the chapel. In the S. transept is a very cm-ious Raising of the Cross, carved in high relief, out of a single stone, by Yervoort. In the second chapel on the 1., as you ent^r the nave, is a good portrait (oval), by Vandycli, of Cornelius Landschot. On the outside of St. Paul, or the Dominican Church (entrance in the Rue des Soeirrs Noires), is an object deserv- ing notice only as iUusti'ative of the Romish religion. It is a representation of Calvary — an artificial eminence raised against the walls of the church, covered with slag or rock work, and planted with statues of saints, angels, prophets, and pati-iarchs. On the summit is the Crucifixion, and at the bottom is a grotto, copied or imitated, it is said, from the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. On enteiing it, the body of Christ is seen encircled with vestments of silk and muslin ; while to the face of the rock, near the entrance, are attached boards carved and painted to represent the glowing fl.ames of Pm-gatory, in the midst of which appears a nxmiber of faces, bearing the expression of agony, and intended to remind the spectator of the sufii'ering of the souls of the wicked in that place of toiment. "NYithin the chiu-ch, as you enter from the side of the Calvary, on the 1. of the door, is a singular painting by Teniers the father, representing the Seven Acts of Mercy. There is also here an excellent and wonderful picture, the Scoru-ging of Chi-ist, by Hubens. " This picture, though admirably painted, is disagreeable to look at ; the black and bloody stripes are marked with too much fidelity ; and some of the figures are awkwardly scourging with their left hand." — i?. The Adoration of the Shepherds is also atti-ibuted to him, " but there is nothing in the pic- tm-e by which his manner can be with certainty recognised ; there are parts which were certainly not painted by him, paiticulaily the drapery of the 56 ROUTE 22. — ANTWERP. CHURCHES. Sect. I. Virgin." — R. A Crucifixion, by Jor- daeiis, "much in the manner of Rubens." — Christ bearing the Cross, an early picture by Vandyck. " It is in many l)ai-ts like the works of Rubens, parti- cularly the figiu'e wdth his back towards the spectator, which is well drawn." — E. The wood- work in this church is remarkably fine. There are 8 or 10 finely ornamented confessionals. St. Andreiv's Cli. contains a fine altar sculptured by Verbruggen, and one of the most beautiful as well as singular of the carved pulpits so common in the Netherlands ; it represents Andrew and Peter called from their boats and their nets by our SaYioiu", and was executed by Van Hool, the figures by Van Gheel. It is a work of high merit ; the figm-e of our Sa\dour displays a dignity not to be expected in this department of art. In the 1. transept is a pictm-e of the Crucifixion of St. Andrew, by Otto Venjiius, Rubens's master; and against a pillar facing the right transept is a portrait of Mary Queen of Scots, attached to a monument erected to the memory of t^'o English ladies named Cm-le, who served her as ladies in wait- ing. One of them received her last embrace previous to her execution. The Ch. of the Augitstins contains an altar-piece by Bubens, representing the man-iage of St. Catherine, with the Virgin and Child sun-oimded by many saints. " From the size of the pictm*e, the great nimiber of figm-es, and the skill with which the whole is conducted, it must be considered as one of the most considerable works of Rubens." ^^ The Vii-gin and Infant Christ are represented at one distance, seated on high on a sort of pedestal, which has steps ascend- ing to it : behind the Virgin is St. Joseph ; on the right is St. Catherine, receiving the ring from Christ. St. Peter and St. Paul are in the back- ground ; and to the left, on the steps, St. John the Baptist, with the Lamb and Angels. Below are St. Sebastian, St. Augustin, St. Lawi-ence, Paul the Hermit, and St. George in armotir (Rubens himself). By way of link to unite the upper and the lower part of the picture, are 4 female saints half- way up the steps. The subject of this pictm-e, if that may be called a subject where no story is represented, has no means of interesting the spectator : its value, therefore, must arise from another source — from the excellence of art, from the eloquence, as it may be called, of the artist. And in this the painter has shown the gi-eatest skill, by disposing of more than 20 figures, without com- position, and without crowding. The whole appears as much animated, and in motion, as it is possible for a picture to be where nothing is doing ; and the management of the masses of light and shade in this pictui-e is equal to the skill shown in the disposition of the figm'es." " I confess I was so over- powered with the brilliancy of this pic- tiu-e of Rubens, whilst I was before it, and under its fascinating influence, that 1 thought I had never before seen so gi'eat powers exerted in the art. It was not till I was removed from its influence, that I could acknowledge any inferiority in Rubens to any other painter whatever." — H. The head of St. Catherine is one of the most beau- tiful Rubens ever painted. In the same church is the Ecstasy of SL Aug-ustin, by Vandyck; it is, how- ever, by no means a faultless composi- tion, "This pictiu-e is of great fame, but in some measure disappointed my exjiectations ; at least, on just parting from the Rubens, the manner appeared hard and dry. The colouring is of a reddish kind, especially in the shadows, without transparency. The colours must have suffered some change, and arc not now as Vandyck left them. This same defect of the red shadows I have ob- served in many of his pictui-es. The head of an elderly woman, said to be the sainf s mother, is finely drawn, and is the best part of the picture ; and the angel sitting on a cloud is the best of that group. The boy with the sceptre is hard, and has no union Avitli the blue sky. This picture has no effect, from the want of a large mass of light. The 2 angels make 2 small masses of equal magnitude." — i?. The Martyrdom of St. Appolina, by Jordaem. "There is not much to be admired in this pictiu-e, except the grey horse foreshortened, biting his knee, Belgium. ROUTE 22. — axt\\t:ep. museum, eubexs. 57 •which is indeed admirable. Jordaens' horse was little inferior to those of Eubens."— i?. The Church of St. Anthony of PaxhM, or of the Capuchins, is only remarkable for two paintings contained ia it — a Dead Christ, by Vandyck ; a Tirgin and Child appearing to St. Francis, by Ruhens. " The Tirgin and Chiist are in a wretch- ed hard manner, and the characters are vulgar. There is, indeed, nothing ex- cellent in this pictui'e but the head of St. Francis, and that is exquisite." — R. Church of St. Carlo Borron\eo ox of the Jesuits. The very elegant facade, erro- neously attributed to Eubens, was de- signed by a Jesuit, Fr. Aguillon. The interior was decorated with many fine pictures by Eubens, but it was destroyed by lightning, with its contents, 1718. It was used as an hospital for wounded English soldiers after the battle of Waterloo. The Museum or Academy of Painting occupies the building of the suppressed conyent of Eecollets, partly rebuilt and newly arranged for its reception. It is opened to strangers daily fi'om 10 to 3. Catalogue, 1 fr. 30 c. Entrance, Eue des Fagots. It contains a great many pictures, brought from suppressed conyents and churches in the town, where they were seen and described by Sir Joshua Eey- nolds. The works of Eubens and Van- dyck give . the highest celebrit}- to this collection. There are no less than 12 or l-i finished works of the former, of the highest excellence, and 6 of Van- dyck. Here is appropriately preserved, under a glass case, the chair of Eubens, Presi- dent of the Academy of St. Liike — an interesting relic. Among the paintings of the older masters ai-e, — Quentia Matsys — (136) The Descent from the Cross, with two ■wings or shutters, formerly in the ca- thedj-al, considered the masterpiece of the artist. It displays the science and talent which are evinced in the famous Misers at Windsor, and, in spite of the stiffiicss of the figiues, is worthy of minute attention. " The middle part is what the Italians call a Pieta, a dead Christ on the knees of the Virgin, ac- [b. & R.] companied by the usual figures. On the door on one side is the daughter of Herodias bringing in St. John's head at the banquet ; on the other St. John ; Evangelist in the caldron of boiling oil. : In the Pieta the Christ appeai-s as if stary- • ed to death, in which manner it was the \ custom of the painters of that age always ; to represent a dead Christ ; but there are heads in this picture not exceeded by Eaflaelle, and indeed not unlike his ; manner of painting portraits — hard and I minutely finished. The head of Herod, and that of a fat man near Chi-ist, are I excellent. The painter's own poitrait ' is here introduced. In the banquet the daughter is rather beautiful, but too skinny and lean. She is presenting the , head to her mother, who appears to be cutting it with a knife." Frans F lor is (properly de Vriendt), called the Flemish Eaphael (but with, little real claim to that honour) — St. Luke at his Easel. The Descent of the Fallen Angels (132), painted 1524-, has some good paits, but -without masses, and dry. On the thigh of one of the figm-es he has painted a fly for the ad- miration of the vulgar. There is a foolish story of this fly being painted by Q. Matsys, and that 'it had the honour of deceiving Floris. (133) The Xativ- ! ity. " A large composition, and perhaps I the best of his works. It is well com- posed, drawn, and colom-ed. The heads are in general finely painted, more espe- cially St. Joseph and a woman in the foreground." The principal works of Eubexs are — j (215) a Pieta, the dead body of Christ j laid on a stone table, covered ^yith straw, I mourned over by the Virgin. '' This is I one of his most careful pictures. The characters are of a higher style of beauty than usual, particularly the Maiy Mag- dalen, weeping, ^yith her hand clenched. The coloming of the Christ and the Vu-gin is of a most beautiful and deli- cately pearly tint, opposed by the strong high colouring of St. Joseph. I have said in another place that Eubens does not appear to advantage but in large works. This picture may be consi- dered as an exception." — R. The Vir- gin holding the infant Jesus, " who stands on a table. The infant appears E ss ROUTE 22. ANT^TERP. MU3EUM. RUBEN'S. Sect. I. to be attontiTely lookiBg at sometliiiig- out of the picture. The vacant stare of a child is very natui-ally represented ; but it is a mean ordinary- -looking boy, and by no means a proper representation of the Son of God. The only picture of Ctuist in -R-hich Enbens succeeds is when he represents him dead : as a child, or as a man engaged in any act, there is no divinity; no grace or dig- nity of character appears." " St. John, finely colom-ed, but this character is ILke-vrise vulgar." (219) A Holy Family. " Far from being one of Rubens's best pictures ; it is scarce worthy to be con- sidered a pattern for imitation, as its merit consists solely in being well coloured. And yet this is the picture which Eubens painted for the Corpora- tion of St. Luke, and it was himg up in their Hall of Meeting." At least the head of the Virgin is pleasing. (220) Our Saviour on the Cross, admirable. (212) " The famous Cnicifixion of Chiist between the two thieves. To give animation to this subject, Rubens has chosen the point of time when an executioner is piercing the side of Christ, while another with a bar of iron is breaking the limbs of one of the male- factors, v\-ho, in his convulsive agony, which his body admirably expresses, has torn one of his feet from the tree to which it was nailed. The expression in the action of this figure is wonderful. The attitude of the other is more com- posed, and he looks at the dj-ing Christ with a countenance perfectly expressive of his penitence. This figure is like- wise adniirable. The Vii-gin, St. John, and Maiy the wife of Cleophas, are standing by with great expression of giief and resignation, whilst the Mag- dalen, who is at the feet of Christ, and may be supposed to have been kissing his feet, looks at the horseman with the spear with a countenance of great hor- ror ; as the expression carries with it no grimace or contortion of the features, the beauty is not desti'oyed. This is by far the most beautrfal profile I ever saw of Rubens, or, I think, of any other painter ; the excellence of its colouring is beyond expression. To say that she may be supposed to have been kissing Chiist' s feet may be thought too refined a criticism; but Rubens certainly in- tended to convey that idea, as appears by the disposition of her hands, for they are stretched out towards the execu- tioner, and one of them is before and the other behind the Cross, which gives an idea of her hands having been round it; and it must be remembered thart she is generally represented kissing the feet of Christ — it is her place and employ- ment in those subjects. The good Cen- turion ought not to be forgotten^ who is leaning foi-ward, one hand on the other, resting on the mane of his horse, while he looks up to Christ with great earnest- ness." " The genius of Rubens nowhere ap- pears to more advantage than here — it is the most carefully finished picture of all his works. The whole is conducted with the most eonsimimate art. The composition is bold and uncommon, with circumstances which no other painter had ever before thought of, such as the breaking of the limbs and the expression of the Magdalen, to which we may add the disposition of the three crosses, which are placed perspectively in an uncommon picturesque manner : the nearest bears the thief whose limbs are breaking ; the next, the Christ, whose figure is straighter than ordinary, as a .contrast to the others ; and the furthermost, the penitent thief. This produces a most picturesque effect, but it is what few but such a daring genius as Rubens would have attempted. It is here, and in such compositions, we properly see Rubens, and not in little pictures of Madonnas and Bambinos. " I have dwelt longer on this picture than any other, as it appears to me to deser^-e extraordinary attention. It is certainly one of the first pictures in the world, for composition, colouring, and what was not to be expected from Rubens, con-ectness of di-awing." (214) St. Theresa interceding for the Soids in Purgatoiy. " The Christ is a better character, has more beauty and gi'ace, than is usual with Rubens : the outline remarkably undulating, smooth, and flowing. The head of one of the women in purgatory is beautiful, in Rubens's way : the whole has great harmony of coloiuing and freedom of Belgium. route 22. — a^'twerp. -museum, vaxdyck. 59 pencil. It is in Ms best maimer." (221) The Trinity : Christ lying dead in the arms of God the Father. An unimpres- sive and irreverent representation of the Deity, -under the figure of an old man. The Chiist is foreshortened -oith gi-eat skill'in drawing." (213) The Adoration of the Magi. " A large and magnificent composition of nearly 20 figures, in Eubens's best manner. Such subjects seem to be more peculiarly adapted to Eubens's style and manner ; his excellence, his superiority, is not seen in small compo- sitions. One of the kings, who holds a cup in his hand, is loadedVith drapery. His head appears too large, and upon the whole he makes but an ungraceful figiu-e. The head of the ox is remark- ably well painted." — B. (222) A small sketch or copy of the Descent from the Cross, in the cathedral — good, though perhaps not by Eubens himself. (217) The Yii-gin instructed by St. Anne. *' This picture is eminently well coloured, especially the angels : the union of their colour with the sky is wonderfully managed. It is remarkable that one of the angels ha.s Psyche's wings, which are like those of a butter- fly. This picture is improperly c-aUed St. Anne teaching the Virgin to read, who is represented about 14 or 15 years of age, too old to begin to learn to read. ITie white silk drapery of the Virgin is well painted, but not historical. The silk is too particularly distinguished, a fault of which Eubens is often guilty in his female drapery ; but by being of the same colour as the sky, it has a soft har- monious effect. The rest of the picture is of a mellow tint." (216) The Communion of St. Francis. He is accompanied by many of his order, and " appears more like a Lazar than a Saint. Though there are good heads in this picture, yet the principal figure is so disgustful it does not deserve much commendation." It was the design, however, of the painter to exhibit the Saint in the act of receiving extreme unction immediately before his death, his body emaciated by disease and ab- stinence, so that, however disagreeable, the picture has at least truth. (218) Christ showing his wormds to St. Thomas. The expression in the face of the Saint is perfect. '' The head of the Christ is rather a good character, but the body and anns are heav^-. It has been much damaged. On the in- side of the 2 folding doors are poi-traits of the Birrgomaster Xicholas Eokkox and his wife, half-lengths. His is a fine portrait ; the ear is remai'kably well painted, and the anatomy of the fore- head is well imderstood. Her portrait has no merit but that of coloiu"." — E. randyck— (262) A Cinicifixion : St. Catherine of Sienna (Sir Joshua calls her St. Eosaria) at the feet of Christ, and St. Dominick. " A sepulchral lamp and a flambeau reversed are here introduced to show that Christ is dead. Two Kttle angels are represented on one side of the cross, and a larger angel be- low. The 2 little ones look like em- biyos, and have a bad effect, and the large angel i^ not painted with equal success to many other parts of the pic- ture. The shadows are too red, and the locks of the hair are all painted in a hard and heavy manner. For its de- fects ample amends are made in the Christ, which is admirably di-awn and coloiu-ed, and a breadth of light pre- served over the body with the gi"eatest skill, at the same time that all the part^ are distinctly marked. The form and character are of a more elegant kind than those we see commonly of Eubens. The idea of St. Catherine closing her eyes is finely imagined, and gives an imcommon and delicate expression to the figure. The conduct of the light and sha- dow of this picture is likewise worth the attention of a painter. To preserve the piincipal mass of light, which is made by the body of Christ, of a beautifitl shape, the head is kept in half shadow. The imder garment of St. Dominick and the angel make the second mass, and the St. Catherine's head, handker- chief, and arm, the third." — i?. (265) The dead Christ, \\-ith the Vii-- gin supporting the body on her knees, in an attitude of the deepest agony ; Mary Magdalen kneeling. '* This has been one of the most chaste pictures, but the coloming is gone. The expres- sion of the Virgin is admirable ; it e2 60 EOUTE 22. ANTWERP. MUSEUM. DOCKS. Sect. r. conveyi? an idea that she is petition- ing w-ith an earnest agony of grief. The Virgin's drapery and the sky being exactly of the same colour has a bad effect : the linen is remarkably weU folded."— i?. (246) Same subject, differently ti'cated. The Virgin behind ; the Magdalen, and St. John. " The Vu-gin's head is ad- mirable for dra'ss'ing and expression. The figure of Christ is likewise finely drawTi, every part carefully determined ; but the coloiu-ing of this figure, and indeed of the pictirre in general, is a little too cold : there is likewise some- thing defective in one of the hands of the Virgin." — R. (267) Poi-traits of Caesar Scaglia, one of the Spanish negotiators at the Con- gress of Miinstcr, and of Maldcrus Bi- shop of Antwerp. Seghers — Marriage of the Virgin; " one of his best pictures." Schut — Martyrdom of St. George. "It is well composed and well drawn, and is one of his best pictures ; but the saint has too much of that cha- racter which painters have fixed for Christ. There is a want of bril- liancy, from its having too much har- mony : to produce force and strength a stronger opposition of colours is re- quired." — R. Ambrose Franch — "The Martyrdom of St. Crispin and Crispinius has some good heads, but in a dry manner." — R. Cornelius cU Vos — St. Norbert and another Saint receiving the Sacrament. (240) The Family Snoeck presenting an offering to the Church of St. Michael. The portraits are extremely well painted. " De Vos was particularly excellent in portraits." — R. Of this there can be no better proof than is afforded by the portrait (237) of the keeper of the cor- poration of St. Liike, i. e. the Academy of Antwei'p, covered with the medals and other decorations presented, along with the goblets on the table before him, to that institution by princes and potentates, all of which have long since disappeared. It is painted with won- derful force and truth. Titian — Pope Alexander VI. intro- ducing to St. Peter the admiral of his neet against the Turks (a Bishop of Paphos) is an interesting picture, in the early style of this master. It once belonged to the collection of King Charles I. Teniers — (297) Boors smoking, a brilliant specimen of the artist, purchased from the collection of M. van Schamps for 14,600 francs. A modem work (382), the Death of Bubens, by Van Bree, President of the Academy, looks cold, raw, and feeble by the side of the pictures enumerated above, but it has the good fortune to be highly admired by the citizens. A collection of paintings, chiefly of the older schools of Flanders and Ger- many, has been bequeathed to the city by the burgomaster Van Ertbom. The very dear and slovenly catalogue con- tains no notice of them, though they have been in the Museum for many years, nor are they numbered. The following, which may be found from their descriptions, are mo.st worthy of notice : — Giotto, 2 smaU pictures, one representing St. Paul, the other a Bishop and a Nun. Fra Angelico, an Emperor humbling himself before a Poi)e. Anton di Messina., a Crucifijfion. A. Diirery Mater Dolorosa. Holbein, Francis II. when Dauphin; Portrait of Era.smus; of Sir Thos. More. John van Eyck, Por- ti-aits of a Magistrate and of two Monks ; Interior of a Gothic Chiirch. Margaret \ V. Eyck, Flight into Egypt. Memling, I Annunciation of the Virgin ; Adoration of the Shepherds ; the Virgin in a church I and a Bishop praying ; Vii-gin and Child, white ; siirrounded by Angels, red. /ean c?(? Jfa6'IES, AXD ROUND ! TO LOUYAIX. j Diligence daily to Tumhout, I The road traverses a wide district of ' heath, much of which is uni-eclaimed, i but at first it passes many pretty villas ; i the waste begins about 8 m. fr-oni , Antwei-p. ; A little way short of Westiiiael is ' the convent of the monks of La Trappe, who have reclaimed an estate of 400 acres from, the baiTcn heath. It is a plain building, somewhat like a work- house.- The brothers, nearly 60 in number, observe the strict rule of the order, in preserving silence, passing the night in prayer, kc. The garden is also the bu-iial-gi'ound, and a gi-ave lies always open to receive him who is u^xt to drop. Cleanliness is little attended to. "Westmael. About 7 m. N.E. of this is Wartel, a pauper colony established by the Dutch govei-nment in 1822, and containing 460 inhab. It stands in the midst of a heath. "It was j^laced, at its foimdation, imder the dii-ection of Capt. Tan den Bosch, brother to the General, and the plan of operation was similar to that of Frederiksord. (See Rte. 7.) The company at Wort el con- ti-acted to maintain 1000 paupers for 35 florins each per ann. ; other paupers were afterwards taken. Another pauper settlement was undei-taken by one per- son near Bruges, who also agreed vrith govei'nment to maintain lOuO paupers for 35 florins each per ann. ; but whether fi-om the separation of Belgium fr'om Hollantl, or whether the pauper colon- ists, chiefly idle vagrants sent fr-om Brussels, being of an inferior class, 64 ROUTE 23. — ANTWERP TO BRUSSELS. Sect. I. certain, however, it is, that the pauper settlements in Belgium are far behind the colony of Frecleriksord in prospe- rity." — Commerc. Statistics. 4 m. be- yond is Merxplas, a colonic forcee, to which convicts are sent, and are com- pelled to work. Tumhout. Inn — Porte d'Or, clean, small, and cheap. 12 m. S. of this, in the midst of the desolate tract of moor and heath called the Campine, is Gheel, a -sdllage of 7500 inhab., a large part of whom are occupied in taking charge of lunatics sent hither fi-om various parts of Bel- gium, amounting to 700 or 800. Some are sent hither by their friends — the paupers are supported by the govern- ment or their parish. The native pea- sants here have for generations devoted •themselves to this charge. The mild system of treating lunacy has long pre- vailed here. St. Dympna, the patron saint of lunatics, was an Irishwoman, a daughter of a king of that island ; and she is said to have suffered mart^fdom here by the hand of her father, from whom she had fled in order to devote herseK to devotion and celibacy, in company with a Chi'istian priest named Gerelx'mus. From the cm-es wrought ■upon pilgrims to her shrine Gheel be- came famous for the treatment of men- tal diseases. The Church, dedicated to her, contains her altar, at which is some ciuious and elaborate carving in stone and oak, representing the legends of the saint and a crucifixion. The altar-piece, surmounted by the Holy Rood, is in the style of some of the retahlos of the churches in Spain. A tabernacle con- tains some of her relics. Here is also a sculptured moniunent to a Count de Merode and his Countess, 1550, resem- bling that of Sir F. de Vere in "West- minster Abbey, being supported by marble figures at the comers. The road runs hence S, about 8 m. to Yesterloo, where it crosses the river Keethe ; and about 10 m. farther, just after crossing the Demer, is the -village of Aerschot. In the Church here is a rood-screen or Juh^, remarkable not only for its elaborate execution, but also for the excellent preservation of not only the tracery but even its numerous bas- reliefs and statuettes, aU in a good style of art. The chandelier in front of the screen is a work of Quentin Matsys, presented by him to the church as a j memorial of his wife, to hang over her grave in the aisle in which she is buried, it is a frame of metal rods, set with flames or flowers of hammered metal. About 12 m. from Aerschot is Louyaix. (See Rte. 26.) EOUTE 23. ANTWERP TO BRUSSELS. — RAILWAY, BY MECHLIN. I 44 kilom. = 27^ Eng. m. Trains in i 40 min. to Mechlin, and in 35 thence to I Brussels. ; Rt. is the village of Berc-hem, the i head-quarters of the French general, i Marshal Gerard, diu-ing the siege. In i the orchards and gardens on the rt. the French commenced the trenches by which the approach to the citadel was I effected. ISfany pretty country seats and gar- , dens of the merchants and citizens of Antwerp lie near the railroad. Vieux Dieu (Oude God) Stat. Contich Stat.— The village (3500 in- \ hab.) lies to the W. ; not far from it ap- i pears the Gothic castle of Ter Elst. j Duffel Stat.— The town is on the L I At Liere (13,500 inhab.), 1^ m. distant i (no inn, but a pot-house), the noble Gk. : of St. Gommaire contains an exqiiisite I flamboyant rood-loft, restored iu a credit- 1 able manner. Observe — The Marriage I of the Virgin, a fine work of Memlinq, j a gift to the ch. from the Archduke Philip of Austria — some fine painted glass at the E. end of the ch.— and the . shrine of St. Gomes. Beyond Duffel the river Neethe is crossed. ! rt. At the entrance of the -sdllage of I "Waelhem, about 2 m. on this side of I Mechlin, the remains of a low rampart I or fortification may be seen on either I side of the road, this is a relic of the I struggle betw^een the Dutch and Bel- 1 gians, 1830-31. The narrow wooden I bridge was the scene of a shai-p skir- 1 mish, in which the insurgent Belgians } succeeded in driving the retreating anny j of the Dutch from a strong position and compelled them to retire under the walls 1 of Antwerp. Bdgmm. ROUTE 23. — MECHLIN. CATHEDRAL. 65 Mechlix Stat., wliere the trains stop for a few niin., is the point of de- partui-e from which 4 lines of railway ramify thi-oiigh Belgium. These are called in the time-tables, Ligne du Nord, which leads to Antwei"p ; Ligne de PEst, to Louvain, Liege, Verviers; Ligne de I' Quest, to Ghent, Bruges, and Os- tend ; Ligne du Midi, to Brussels, and thence to Mons, Charleroi, and Xamur, or to Lille. There is almost invariably great confusion, and frequently delay here, from the meetings of the trains. TraTellers should take care they are not put into the \STong ti-ain, and that they are not run over in crossing the numer- ous lines of rails. Sheds, at least, ought to be constructed to protect pas- sengers and their baggage from the rain. Mechlin is equidistant from Antwerp, Brussels, and Louvain. A handsome approach has been made fi'om the rail- way Stat, into the town (5 min. walk). Mechlin (Fr., Malines; Flem., Me- chelen; Germ., Mecheln). Inns: H. St. Jacques; La Grue, in the Grande Place. Mechlin is situated on the Dyle, and has 29,660 inhab. It is one of the most picturesque Flemish cities, from the quaint architecture of its houses and the multitude of signs over the shops, but presents now a deserted as- pect. The railway was planned to traverse the midst of the city, but the magistrates (gaudet Mechlinia stultis, § 25), like the wise men of Northamp- ton, Oxford, and Maidstone, stoutly re- sisted this, and with success. Now few of the millions who pass this city annually enter it, and still fewer stop here. Mechlin is the see of the Belgian Primate. The Cathedral, dedicated to St. Rimi- bold (the choir finished in 1451, the nave in 1437), deserves to be visited. The interior is large and lofty. It has a carved pvdpit, representing the Con- version of St. Paul, with the fallen saint and his fallen horse below ; and an altar-piece in the X. fransept, by Van- d>/ck, of the Crucifixion, painted after his retiuTi from Italy. " This, perhaps, is the most capital of all his works, in respect to the variety and ertensiveness of the design, and the judicious disposi- tion of the whole. In the cflbrts which the thieves make to disengage them- selves from the cross he has success- fully encountered the difiiculty of the art, and the expression of grief and re- signation in the Virgin is admirable. Upon the whole, this may be considered as one of the first pictures in the world, and gives the highest idea of Tandy ck's powers : it shows that he had tridy a genius for history paiutrng, if it had not been taken off by portraits. The colouring of this picture is certainly not of the brightest kind, but it seems as well to correspond with the subject as if it had the freshness of Bubens. St. John is a mean character, the only weak pai't in the picture, imless we add an- other cii'cumstance, though but a minute one — the hair of the Magdalen, at the foot of Christ, is too silky, and in- deed looks more like silk di-apery than hair." — E. The pictui-e was carefully cleaned in 1848, and seems to have been little retouched. In the side chapels, around the choir, are 25 paintings by Michel Coexie, or at least of his time, representing events in St. Rumbold's life — very ciuious. The organ possesses a rich and full body of tone. The massive though unfinished Tower, begun 1452, is 348 ft. high, that is, only 18 ft. lower than the cross of St. Paul's : had the steeple been com- pleted, it woTold have been 640 ft. high. A story is told of an alann being given in the to'wn that the tower was on fire ; but, when fire-engines were brought and the inhabitants had flocked together in haste to put out the conflagi-ation, it was found to be nothing more than the light of the moon shining through the Gothic open work. This, which was probably only a malicious joke, has given rise to a sort of proverb, not at all relished by those to whom it is ap- pKed — " The wise men of Mechlin tried to extinguish the moon." This church was built ■with the money obtained by the sale of indulgences to pDgTims, who flocked hither in 1452, to celebrate a Jubilee proclaimed by the Pope throughout Christendom, on the occasion of the war against the Tirrks. In the Grande Place, in which the ca- thedral stands, are several ancient build- ings, — Les Halles, with a tun-ct, date e3 66 KOUTE 23.' — MECHLIN. CHURCHES. Sect. I. 1340, and the Town Hall, called Beyard, a structure of the 1 5th. cent. In the midst is a statue of Jeanne de Brabant, by Geefs, suri-ounded by elegant ii'on-work. In the Church of St. John is a very famous altar-piece with wings by Ru- bens, composed of the foUowiag pieces : The Adoration of the Magi. " A large and rich composition ; but there i."? a want of force in the Virgin and Child — they appear of a more shadowy sub- stance than the rest of the picture, which has his usual solidity and rich- ness. One of the Kings holds an in- cense vase. This circumstance is men- tioned to distinguish this pictvure from the many others which Rubens has painted of this subject. On the inside of one of the doors is the Decollation of St. John the Baptist ; on the other, St. John the Evangelist in the caldi-on of boiling oil. The figures which are put- ting him into the caldi'on want energy, which is not a common defect of Rii- bens. The character of the head of the Saint is vidgar, which, indeed, in him is not an uncommon defect. The whole is of a mellow and rich colouring. On the outside of those doors are John bap- tizing Christ, and St. John the Evan- gelist in the Isle of Patmos writing the Apocalj'pse, Both of these are in his best manner. The Eagle of St. John is remarkably well painted. The Baptism is much damaged." — B. Sir Joshua mentions 8 small paintings in panels under these, aU by Rubens, but showing little merit, except facility of hand. The subjects were the Cruci- fixion, the Nativity, and Resurrection. The first alone remains ; the others, it is believed, were not returned with the rest of the pictures from France. " Rubens was paid for these 8 pic- tures 1800 florins of Brabant, about 180^. English, as appears by the receipt in his own hand-writing, still preseiwed in the saciisty, and the whole was be- gun and finished in 18 days." — B. The elegant Gothic Ch. of Notre Dame, passed on the 1. hand in coming from the railway, contains behind the high altar the Mu-aculous Draught of Fishes, by Rubens., painted for the Guild of Fishmongers, and considered one of his most masterly works. His excel- lence of coloui' and rivahy of the Vene- tian school are nowhere more conspicu- ous than in this picture. It ought not to be passed over unseen. On the wings or shutters are painted — The Tribute Money taken from the mouth of the fish ; Tobias and the Fish ; Peter, Andi-ew, James, and John, the 4 dis- ciples who were fishermen. Beneath these were three small pictures which also disappeared with the French. Ru- bens painted these 8 subjects in 10 days for 1000 florins. There is another Church of Notre Dame here, called De Hansv:,yk. It owed its existence to a statue of the Virgin which floated up the river against the stream by miraculous agency till it stopped and remained fixed at the spot where the church, which was built in consequence, now stands '. This was not the only miracle performed by the image, for it obtained such a high re- putation for curing all kinds of maladies that the weak and the devout made pil- grimages to it from far and near. The image exists no longer, having been de- stroyed by sacrilegious hands when the army of the Confederates, under Oliver Temple, in 1580, took and pillaged the city. Mechlin was the seat of the Imperial Chamber, foimded by Charles the Bold, 1473, which continued to maintain the reputation of a most upright court of justice for many centuries. Charles V. and PhUip II. presided over it in person. Mechlin is the birthplace of Ernest Count Mansfeld, the celebrated leader in the 30 years' war ; of Michel Coexie (1497), the scholar and imitator of Ra- phael ; and of Dodonteus the botanist (d. 1585). The manufactiu'c of Lace., which re- ceives its name fi-om Mechlin, is much fallen off". Only 8 houses are now em- ployed in making it. It is a coarser and stouter variety than that made at Brussels. A group of 3 very picturesque old houses in the Kraam Sti'aat are a fit j subject for the pencil. " The Porte I d'Egmont, and the pile of buildings I called Beguinage, near the entrance of I Mechlin, are cui'ious relics of anti- I quity."— P. //. Belgium. The Railroad to Bnissek, 20 kilo., on leaving Mechlin, crosses the canal lead- ing to Lonvain. [The Chateau of Rnhem at Steen, of which place he "«*as seigneur, still exists, thoTigh fast falling to decay, near the ■^-iUage of Ele-vryt, a little on the E. of the road between Malines and Yilvorde. It is surrounded by a moat, Teniers's house at Perck, 3 m. from Yilvorde and 2 m. from Steen, is called, from its 3 towers (none of which remain), Be Drie Tor en, and is marked by the ori- ginal gabled gate-house and the moat which sm-roimded it. A spread eagle on the folding-doors is said to be the work of the artist himself. In the T-il- lage church is his wife's tomb, and a painting by him.] 10 Vihorde Stat. (2700 inhab.), a dull to^Ti, has an interesting Ch. con- taining fine carvings in wood. Tindal, translator of the Bible into English, suffered martyi-dom here as a heretic, in 1536, being strangled at the stake, and then burnt outside the town, near the Penitentiary, a huge edifice, with loop-hole -udndows, on the 1., which stands on the site of his prison. On quitting Yilvorde many pretty country-seats are seen on the banks of the broad canal which goes to Brussels, and outside of Yilvorde the vast Peni- tentiary mentioned above. On approaching Brussels, the Palace of Laeken, belonging to the King of Belgium, appears at some distance on Ihe rt. It is handsomely fiumished, but there is nothing to distinguish it from other kingly residences, of which a tra- veller may see enough in a continental j oui'ney. It was originally built for the Austi'ian governor of the Netherlands before the French revolution, and wa.s afterwards inhabited by Kapoleon, who here planned his disastrous Russian campaign. The gardens and park are very beautiful. It is 3 m. fi'om Brus- sels. Madame Malibran is Inu-ied in the Cemetery of Laeken. A statue of her in marble, by Geefs, has been set up in a so-called temple, as a monument, by her husband, who caused her body to be removed hither from Manchester. The statue, however, is placed too high to be seen to advantage. The Alice Yerte, ROUTE 23. VILYOEDE. BRUSSELS. 67 a long avenue of trees, extends nearly ail the way to Brussels from Laeken. The raih-oad i-uns on the opposite side of the canal, and terminates [^Brus- sels Stat.'] at the Porte de Cologne, near the botanic garden, opposite the Longue Rue iSeuve. 10 Brussels (Fr., Bruxelles; Flem., Bmssel; Germ., Briissel). — Inns : H. de Bellevue ; charges, 1 wax candle, 1 fr. ; tea, 1 fr. 50 c. ; breakfast, do. ; table- d'hote, 3 fr. ; bottle of ordinary wine, 3 fr. 50 c. ; dinner in private, 4 to 5 fr. ; H. de Flandre ; veiy good, the table- d'hote is celebrated. H. de 1' Europe ; good. These 3 in the Place Royale. — H. de France, Rue Royale, comer of the Mont du Pare; highly recom- mended, comfortable and modei-ate. — H. Royal, new, in the lower town. H. de la Regence, near the Place Royale; good, quiet, and moderate. — H. de la Grande Bretagne, Place Royale. H. de rUnivers, Longue Rue Xeuve. H. de Suede, in the old to"«Ti, moderate. H. des Princes, Place de la Monnaie. H. de Saxe. H. des Quatre Saisons. The expense of living at one of the principal hotels ought not to exceed 12 fi-. a day, including a bottle of Bordeaux wine. 2nd class Inn : H. de HoUande, where the expenses ought not to exceed S fr. daily. Motel Garni. Hotel Kreuznach, in the j Rue Royale, I There are also several Boarding-houses, among which may be mentioned one in I the new Quaiiier Louise, leading from the Boulevard de Waterloo, kept by Mrs. j Hay don. j Brussels, the capital of the kingdom I of Belgium, and seat of government and of the Giambers, on the small river Senne, has 124,461 inhab., or, includ- ing the subm-bs, 160,000. It is divided into the upper and lower towns, the : upper being the newest as well as the I most fashionable and healthy quarter, I fi-om its elevated site. It contains the King's palace, the Chambei-s, and the chief hotels. The foreign ambasssadors reside in the Rtie Ducale. The Rue de la Loi is occupied by public ofiices. The lower to"v\Ti abounds in fine old pictur- esque buildings, the residences in for-' 68 EOUTE 23. — BRUSSELS. PARK. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. Sect. L mer times of the Brabant noblesse, now occupied by merchants and tradespeople. The Grande Place, ^ith its splendid Hotel de Ville, ia this quarter, is be- yond doubt uni-ivalled as a specimen of Gothic splendour in civic edifices. The Quartier Leopold, containing some fine houses, is becoming the favourite part of the to^Ti. French is the prevailing language, though many among the lower orders, and the majority of the popula- tion in the lower town, speak only Flemish. Those who are acquainted with the French metropolis will find here many sinulai-ities, which give Brussels the character of Paris on a small scale. Besides the language, which is the same, and a certain affectation of French manners and habits perceptible in so- ciety here, the town of Brussels has its little opera, in imitation of that of Paris ; its cafes, in the manner of those of the Palais Royal; a palace-garden, which pretends to a similarity with that of the Tuileries ; and miniature Boulevards around the town. Brussels abounds in English in search of cheapness, which their presence has banished. From the long sojourn of so many of our countrymen, the English language is very generally spoken, from the landlord of the hotels down to the shoeblack in the sti'eets. The Park is a considerable enclosure in the higher town, forming the interior of a large square, laid out with avenues of trees, shady walks, and verdant ttuf, and ornamented ■v^dth statues ; seiwing as a promenade to the inhabitants, who are indebted to the Empress Maria Theresa for it. The most fashionable evening walk is on the 1. of the en- trance to the Place Boy ale. The park was the scene of the principal combat dming the revolution of 1830. It was occupied by the Dutch troops, and the trees still bear marks of the wounds they then received. The Hotel de Believue, standing between the Place Eoyale, where the Belgian insurgents were posted, and the Park, was the centre of action, and was riddled with shot. Among the buildings which form the sides of this square, and which im- mediately overlook the Park, are — The King's Palace; it has nothing very remarkable without or within. It is furnished in a costly manner, as palaces usually are ; and those to whom suites of splendid apartments, and a few pictures of no great value, by Datid, &c., are an attraction, may ob- tain permission to see the interior when the royal family is absent, though with difficiiity. Near to it is the Palace of the Prince of Orange (the late King of Holland), erected at the cost of the city of Brus- sels, and presented to the Prince. The building was finished and inhabited only one year before the revolution of 1830 broke out. The fine collections of pictures and fumitirre have been re- moved and sold. The CJiamhers of Representatives., or Palais de la Nation, built by Maria Theresa for the meetings of the Coimcil of Brabant, are situated Rue de la Loi, at the end of the Park, facing the lioyal Palace ; within they resemble the French Chambers at Pans previous to 1848. There is nothing to particularise in them, except x>erhaps 3 pictures by modem artists — the commencement of the Belgian Trois Jours of 1830, by Wappers; the Battle of Woeringen, by De Keyzer ; and the Battle of Waterloo. Ladies, as well as gentlemen, are ad- mitted during the debates. The en- trance is behind, in the Rue de I'Oran- gerie. In the Place Eoyale stands a spirited bronze equestrian statue of Godfrey of Bouillon, by M. Simonis, erected in 1848. It was cast at Paris by Soycr. In one of the last houses in the Rue Ragule, near the Porte de Schaerbeck, the Duchess of Richmond gave the grand ball to the Dvike of Wellington and his officers on the eve of Waterloo (Jime 15, 1815), which the Duke would not allow to be put off, although he had previously heard of the advance of Na- poleon, The Ilttseum, in the Old Palace, for- merly the residence of the Spanish and Austrian Governors of the Low Coun- tries, and before that of the Dukes of Brabant, and now called Palais des Beaux Arts, contains — 1st. The Picture Gallery. Here are 7 works reputed to Belgium. eoute 23. — Brussels, museum, library, 69 be by Eubens, mostly inferior to tbose at Antwerp, and probably executed by his pupils. They are, however, not deficient in many ti'aces of his trans- cendent power. Among them are, The Martyrdom of St. Lieven — a Coronation of the Virgin — Adoration of the Magi — Christ falling under the Cross — a Dead Christ at the Sepulchi-e — Christ anned with Thimder to destroy the World ; an extravagant and unchiistian allegory. " Christ, with Jupitei-'s thimder and lightning in his hand, denouncing ven- geance on a wicked world, represented "by a globe lying on the gi'oim^d with the serpent twined roimd it : this globe St. Francis appears to be covering and defending with his mantle. The Vu-gin is holding Christ's hand, and sho-wing her breasts ; implying, as I suppose, the right she has to intercede and have an interest with him whom she suckled. The Chi'ist, which is ill di-awn, in an attitude affectedly contrasted, is the most vmgracious figiu-e that can be imagined : the best part of the picture is the head of St. Francis." — E. The Assumption of the Virgin : — " The piin- eipal figure, the Virgin, is the worst in the composition, both in regard to the character of the coimtenance, the drawing of the figure, and even its colour ; for she is dressed, not in what is the fixed dress of the Virgin, blue and red, but entirely in a coloiir be- tween blue and red, heightened with white ; and this coming on a white glory gives a deadness to that part of the picture. The Apostles and the two women are in Rubens' s best manner. The angels are beautifully coloured, and unite with the sky in perfect har- mony ; the masses of light and shade are conducted with the greatest judg- ment ; and, excepting the upper part, where the Virgin is, it is one of Eubens' s rich pictures." — R. De Crayer, St. Peter Fishing. P. Neefs, Interior of Antwerp Cathedral. Ger. Dome, a small candlelight piece, very capital. The number of pictures here exceeds 300 : the bad preponderate much over the good ; and the whole collection is far inferior to that at Antwerp ; but it is full of instruction, and contains the works of some earlv Flemish masters that can nowhere be found in equal excellence. Several very fiue paint- ings, purchased by the government at the King of Holland's sale, have, however, recently been added to the collection. Bemard van Orley, The body of Christ, mourned over by his fiiends and by the women, one of his best works. " It has a great natm-e, but is hard, as the whole pictm-e is in a dry Gothic style." — i?. In the fatal bombai-dment of Brussels on the 20th of August, 1695, by the French imder Marshal Villeroy, there were de- stroyed, in less than 48 hovu-s, several thousand houses and 14 chiu-ches, the latter adorned with some of the finest works of Eubens, Vandyck, and other eminent painters, which thus perished in the flames, or were buried in the ruins. In the ante-rooms are speci- mens of the modern Belgian School of Art, very well worthy of attention, especially the works of Wappers, Gal I a it, de Keyzer, Verboekhoven — The Sheepcot in a Storm, Le Foiteven, de Caisne, &:c. The collections of painting and natu- ral histoiy are open to the public Sim., Mon., Thurs. and all fete-days. A stranger will gain admittance at all times by feeing the porter. There is also a curious collection of models of engines, sluice-gates, machinery, &e. 2nd. The Burgundian Library, under the same roof as the gallery, contains 18,000 MSS., «fcc., of great interest and value. They were collected at a very early period by the Dukes of Burgimdy ; many are richly adorned with precious miniature paintings of the greatest beauty by the scholars of Van Eyck. The Chronicle of Hainault, consisting of 17 folio volumes, illuminated, de- serves particular notice ; also the Missal of Matthias Cor\-inus, King of Hungary, and the Psalter of Louis de Male. This collection has been twice canried off to Paris by the French as the spoils of war. This library has been united to the Eoyal library, which was foimed in 1S37 by the union of the libraries of the state and of the town of Brussels with that of Van Hultem, which was purchased for 315,000 francs. It con- tains 200,000 vols, of printed books. The library is open every day except TO EOUTE 23. BRUSSELS. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. Sect. I. Sun. from 9 to 3. Nothing can exceed j the comfort of the reatling-room. , .3rd. The Museum of Natural History, on the lower story of the same hiiild- ing, is prohably the most complete in | Belgium. The zoological department .. includes many specimens brought fi'om ' the Dutch East Indian colonies. That j of mineralogy is enriched by an in- i teresting collection of Eussian minerals | presented by the late Queen of Holland, j The specimens of chromate of lead and i malachite are fine. There is a very com- j plete series of the volcanic products of Ye- | suvius, and of the fossils of Maestiicht. ! This building serves likewise as a | College, and public lectiures, instituted | by government, are given daily, at par- | ticxilar seasons, in various branches of | science, literature, and art, to which all \ persons are admitted gratis. In the courtyard is preserved the inscription from the monimient of Lipsius. The Palais cT Industrie, opposite the Ch. of St. Jacques Caudenberg, 1., in the comer, is appropriated to an exhi- bition, every 4 years, of the products of national arts and manufactm-es. The Hotel de Ville, in the Grande Place, is the grandest of those munici- pal palaces which are found in almost every city of the Netherlands, and no- where else of the same splendour. The part S.E. of the tower was begim 1401. The beautifid tower, of Gothic open work, 364 ft. high, was built by Jan van Ruysbrock, the architect of the first portion, iu 1444. It origiually stood at the end of the building : the wiug to the N.W. of the tower was dm-ing the first French revolution, it contains little worth notice. The market-place, in front of it, is lined with pictm-esque old houses, most of which were the halls of vai'ious Cor- porations and Guilds. Here the Counts Egmont and Horn were beheaded, by order of the cruel Alva, in 1568. They passed the night preceding their deaths in the old Gothic house opposite, called the Broodhuis, or Maison du Roi (built 152.5), which on3e served the pui-pose of Hotel de Ville. Alva, it is said, looked on while the execution was going forward, fi'om a window in the building. The Collegiate Gh. of St. Gidule, the finest in Brussels, is a handsome Gothic edifice, in which chapters of the order of the Golden Fleece were held by Philip the Good in 1435, and by Charles Y. in 1516. The existing choir and transepts were finished in 1273, the nave in the 14th cent., and the towers in 1518. The outside was well restored in 1843. The proper dedica- tion is to the " Saints Michel ct Gu- dule," but, as in many similar cases, the female saint has eclipsed the arch- angel. It is remarkable for the beauti- ful painted glass in its windows, especi- ally those by Roger van der Weyde in the gTcat jS". chapel of the St. "Sacre- ment des Miracles, including portraits of sovereigns and pi-inces of the 16th cent., by whom they were presented : 2 are dated 1546, and 2 1547. The N. and S. windows of the transept are of 1557, the AY. window 1528. Within the choir are cenotaphs, erected in 1610 to John II., Duke of Brabant (1512), added about the end of the cent. It | and Margaret his wife. Duchess of difi'ers in length and otherwise mate- rially from the older wing, but not so as to destroy the efiect of the whole. The gilt copper figure of St. Michael on the top, which serves as a weather- cock, and txuiis with the \\-ind, is 17 ft. high. The abdication of Charles Y. (1555) took place in the Old Ducal Palace, which stood on the site of the Place Boyale, bm-nt doMm in 1733, and That event is depicted on tapestries pre- served here, but, as the interior suffered sad spoliation and wanton destr-uction of its carvings and ornamental work York ; and one of the Archduke John (1596). A tablet of white marble covers the entrance to the vault of the royal family of Austi-ia. In the chapel of the Yu'gin, S. aisle, is a statue, by Geefs, of a Count Merode, a hero or martyr of the revolution of 1830. He is re- presented in marble, wearing a blouse, the costvune in which he was shot, woimded, and holdino; a pistol ! The not, as is often said, in this town-hall, statues of the 12 Apostles placed against the pillars in the nave are partly by Duquesnoy. The carved pulpit (called Chaire de la Yerite) is generally con- sidered the mastei'piece of Ycrbrug- Belgium. EOUTE 23. BRUSSELS. CHURCHES, ETC. 71 gen. It represents Adam and Ere driven out of Paradise by the angel, who appears on one side of the globe melding the pagan thunderbolt of Ju- piter, while Death glides roimd with his dart from the opposite side. The pidpit itself is in the hollow of the globe, which is supported on the tree of know- ledge of good and evil, and the ti-ee of life, teeming with fruit, and with vari- ous animals perched on their branches. At the side of Adam are the ostrich and eagle, while in satmcal vicinity to Eve appear the peacock, the ape, and the parrot. Above the canopy stands the Virgin holding the infant Saviour, whom she is assisting to thi-ust the exti-emity of the cross into the sei'pent's head. It was executed for the church of the Jesuits at Louvain : on the suppression of the order Maria Theresa gave it in 1776 to this chm'ch. In the chapel, called St. Sacrement des Miracles, are deposited the Jliracii- loiis Wafers, said to have been stolen from the altar at the instigation of a sacrilegious Jew, and subjected to in- sults by himself and his brethren assem- bled in their s\Tiagogue. To add to the sacrilege, the day chosen for this outrage was Good Friday. "\Mien the scoifers proceeded so far as to stick their knives into the wafers, jets of blood biu'st forth from the wounds, and by a second miracle they were struck sense- less. They were then denounced by one of the pretended spectators, who had been converted to Christianity, and were seized and put to death by the most cruel torments, having their flesh torn off by hot irons before they were b\imt at the stake. This took place about the end of the 14th cent., and it proves that the Jews at Bi-ussels must then have been so numerous and wealthy as to have been worth plundering. The miracle is one of many similar tales in- vented by those who took advantage of the superstition of the age, and the general hatred of the race of Israel, to incite the populace to deeds of cruelty, which enabled them to em-ich them- selves with the confiscated goods of the unbelievers. Tlus triumph of the faith, as it is called, is celebrated once a year, on the Sunday following the 15th of i July, in the enlightened city of Brussels, i by a solemn procession of the cler^^, and by the exhibition of the identical i mii-aculous wafers. A little book con- : taining an authorised version of the stoiy ! maybepmx'hasedatthechm-ch! Abeau- ; tifiil modem carved wood altar has been ! set up in the chapel. It cost 1000/. The Ch . of Notre Dame de la ChapeUe, in the Eue Haute, which may be called I a fine chmxh in a cit}' where there is Little ecclesiastical architectiu-e, con- : tains a pictui-e by Crayer, Jesus appear- 1 ing to Mary Magdalen ; some good mo- ! dem frescoes, by VanEi/ckeri; a singular ; pulpit, representing Elijah comforted i by an Angel, under a canopy of Palm I Trees; the tomb of the painter Breughel, ! and a small paltiy tablet to his memory; i besides which, on the left of the high i altar, there is the more pretending mo- I nument of the family Spinola. In the Palais de Justice, formerly a monasteiy of the Jesuits, a poor build- ing in the Square du Grand Sablon, are 2 fine works of the modern Belgian School, — the Abdication of Charles" V., by Gallait, and the Signing of the Com- promise or Eequest, by Biefce. The Prison des Pet its Cannes, near the square called Petit Sablon, stands on the site of the Hotel de Cuylem- bourg, memorable as the place of meet- ing of the Protestant Confederates in the reign of Philip II., who were the means of delivering the United Pro- vinces from the yoke of Spain. On this spot (1.566) they drew up the famous petition to the Yice-queen Margaret of Parma, called the " Request." At the moment when it was presented one of the courtiers was overheard to whisper in the ear of Margaret, who was rather abashed by the sudden appearance of the petitioners, " not to be annoyed by such a parcel of beggars" {gueux). The leaders of the confederates, hearing of this, and feeling that an epithet given to those who came forward in defence of their country and libcxtics, though meant as a reproach, became by its ap- plication a title of honour, determined at once to adopt it as then- nom de guerre. The same evening, when they met at supper, some of them appeared on the balcony of the hotel, ■s\'ith a beggar's 72 ROUTE 23.— BRUSSELS. PUBLIC BUILDINGS, ETC. Sect. 1. wallet at their back and a porringer (Jatte) in their hand, out of which they drank success to the Gueujc! The spark thus lighted was soon blown into a flame, and this is commonly consi- dered one of the leading events of that revolution which, in a few years, dis- possessed the House of Spain of the dominion of the Low Counti'ies. Alva WTcaked his blind vengeance on the building where the meetings were held, by levelling it with the ground. 'The Palais d'Aremberg, 17, Place du Petit Sablon, furnished with great splen- dour, contains a small but choice gal- lery chiefly of Dutch and Flemish masters : among them an interior by de Hooghe ; Tobias' Cure, Her/ibrarodt ; Marriage in Cana, Jan Steen ; and a beautiful Paul Potter ; a choice collec- tion of Etruscan antiquities, and much fine old furniture. In the library is an antique head, asserted to be that of the famous Laocoon, or at least of a statue similar to that in the Vatican. The Palace is shown in the absence of the family, and is well worth seeing ; so are the Gardens. The Picture Gallery of the Prince de Ligne is not readily shown. The Studios of Geefs, the sculptor, Eue du Palais, and of Verboekhoven, the painter. Rue Royale Exterieure, may be visited with pleasure. The Porte de Hal, a large and Grothic gateway now standing alone, the only relic of the old fortifications, erected 1381, was Alva's Bastille during his bloody persecutions of the Protestants. It is now used as a Museum for a very interesting and well-arranged collection of ancient armour ; also the cradle of Charles V., a font from Tirlemont (1149), and other antiquities. It is in front of this building that criminals are guillotined. The University, Rue des Sols, was originally Cardinal Grand vella's Palace, 'The square called Place des Martyrs (Martelaers Plaets) contains a large monument erected over the grave of more than 300 of the " braves Beiges " who were killed in the last revolution, Sept. 1830. It consists of a marble statue of Liberty on a pedestal, with a kneeling Genius in each of the 4 cor- ners, by Geefs. Below and aroimd it runs a sort of subterranean gallery or cata- comb, in which the slain are interred. Brussels is the birthplace of Vesalius, the anatomist, to whom a statue in bronze has been erected in the Place des Barricades ; of Yan Hebnont, the chemist ; of Margaret of Austria, Gou- vemante of the Low Coimtries, daughter of the Empr. Maximilian ; of the painters Bernard van Orley, Philip de Cham- pagne, and van der Meulen; of the sculptor Duquesnoy. The Theatre, in the Place de la Mon- naie, is generally well conducted ; the performances are good, and the edifice itself handsome. It is open every day : admission to 1st and 2nd loges, 5 fr. and 4 fr. ; gallery and parquet, 3 fr. 50 c. ; parterre, 1 fr. 60 c. Theatre des Xou- veautes, on the Boulevard de Laeken ; Theatre du Vaudeville, Rue de I'Eveque. There is also a smaller Theatre in the Park, in which vaudevilles are per- formed Saturday and Sunday. Cafes. — The best are — Cafe Suisse ; des Mille Colonnes, in the Place de la Monnaie ; and Des Trois Suisses. Restaurants : Du Bos, Rue Fosse aux Loups ; reputed good, but dear. Dubos, Rue de la Putterie (No. 23) ; a very good dinner, a la carte, 2 fr. and 3 fr. a head. Les Freres Provenceaux, Longue Rue de I'Ecuier, is much cele- brated. The best ice is to be had at Velloni's, in the Park, near the Theatre. Fiacres. — The fare is 2 fr. 1st hr. ; 1^ fr. after ; or li fr. for any distance within the town. Cabs ( Vigilantes) cost \\ fr. the 1st hr., and 1 fr. for a diive. A valet de place expects 4 fr. per diem here and elsewhere in Belgium. Post Ojfice in the Rue de la Montague, not far from St. Gudule. Poste restante open 7 A.M. to 8 p.m. Letters unpaid may now be posted for England at any of the branch offices before 5 p.m. Passports are vise at the Ministere de Justice, Rue de la Regence, close to the Place Roy ale. The English Minister lives outside the Porte Leopold, and the Pnissian Embassy is in the Rue des Petits Carmes, Xo. 39. The signatures of both must be obtained in order to enter Rhenish Prussia. The Pinissian Minister will not yisot a Belgian pass- port for a British subject. In order to Belgium. route 23. — Brussels, lace, promenades. obtain his signature, a traveller wlio lias provided himself with a Belgian passport on quitting London will have to exchange it for an English one at the British Embassy. Bailroads. — Xorthem line (Antwerp, Ostend, Liege). Termim(s, Station da Nord, at the end of Longue Eue Neuve. Southern line (Xamiu*, Mons, Va- lenciennes). Terminus, Station du Midi, near the Church of N. D. de Bon Secours. Omnibuses nm from different parts of the town, calling at the chief hotels to convey passengers to the railroads. Di!i;]ences daily to Louvain. Booksellers. — Muquardt, 11, Place Boyale, has a reading-room for English and foreign newspapers, and an English circulating Library. X.B. — Belgian and French editions of English books are now absolutely prohibited at the British Custom-house. The best shops are for the most part in the Rue Montague de la Cour and Eue de la Madeleine. The Gallerie St. Hubert, extending fi'oni the Marche aux Herbes to the Eue de I'Eveque, is an extremely hand- some arcade, or street glazed over. The most remarkable manufacture at Brussels is that of Lace, celebrated all over the world. The peculiarity, in addition to the fineness, which distin- guishes it, is, that the patterns are worked separately with the most mi- croscopic minuteness, and are afterwards sewed on. The flax employed in the manufacture grows near Hal ; the best comes from a place called Eebecque. The finest sort, costs from 300 fr. to 400 fr. per lb., and is worth its weight in gold ; everything depends on the tenuitv of the fibre, f yard (EngHsh) of the finest and most expensive kind of lace costs 150 fr. ; but a very good sort is sold for 50 fr., and the prices of some ai-e as low as 10 fr-. per aune. It is said that the persons who spin the thread for Brussels lace, and also for the French cambric (batiste) of St. Quentin, are obliged to work in con- fined dark rooms, into which light is admitted only partially by a small aper- ture ; and that, by being thus compelled to pay more constant and minute atten- tion to their work, they discipline the T3 eye, and attain the faculty of spinning the flax of that web-like fineness which con- stitutes the excellence of these "2 fabrics. Yery good carriages are made here, about two-thirds cheaper, though not equal in excellence to the English. M.M. Jones, Eue de Laeken, are the most eminent coachmakei'S. Money Changers. — Messel, 70, Eue de la Madeleine. Yates, Mont, de la Cour. There are two Chapels in which the English Church service is performed every Simday : one close to the Museiim ; the other on the Boulevard de I'Observa- toire. Service at the Chapel Eoyale, Eue du Musee, at 9 a.m. and 2k p.m. ; at the Chapel on the Boulevard de rObservatoire, 1 p.m. and 3 p.m. The shortest v:ay to England. — London maybe reached via Ostend and Dover in 1 2 hrs. The steamers now go daily fi-om Ostend to Dover. See p. 3 1 . To reach Calais by railway takes 8 or 10 hrs. The principal Promenades., besides the Park, mentioned before, are the Boule- vards, extending nearly round the town ; the most fashionable and fre- quented being those de "W^aterloo, du Eegent, and de I'Observatoire, between the gates of Schaerbeck and d'Anvers ; — an entirely Xew Quarter [Quartier Leopold) has sprung up bets\'een the Portes de Louvain and de Xamur ; — the Botanic Garden, near the Porte de Schaerbeck, which is very prettily laid out, and is open to the public Tues., Thurs., Sat, from 10 to 3 ;— and the Alle'e Verte, a treble avenue of lime- trees by the side of the canal lead- ing to Mechlin, which were spared by Marshal Saxe, at the entreaty of the ladies of Bi-ussels, when he besieged the town 1746. Excursions may be made from Brussels to — Laeken (p. 67). A fiacre costs 5 fr. to go and return, provided it be not detained more than 2 hi's. Laeken is a railway station. From the fields near Laeken is the best view of Bnissels. T. Suffell, an EngKshman, 12, Eue de Eavenstein, supplies carriages and sad- dle horses for hire. The Excursion to Waterloo (see Ete. 24) will occupy about 8 hrs., allowing 3 hrs. for the horses to rest and for surveying the field. A carriage with 74 ROUTE 24. — BRUSSELS TO LIEGE. WATERLOO. Sect. I. 2 horses (voitiire de remise), to go and retui'n, ought not to cost more than 20 fr., driver and turnpikes included. A vigilante (cab) may be hii-ed for 10 fr. It is necessary to stipulate that you shall be taken to Mont St. Jean and Hougoumont; or, what is better, let the I agreement be to convey you to any part j of the field you please, otherwise you ■will be set down at the village of Waterloo, 2 m. short of the most in- teresting points in the field of battle, or be compelled to pay 2 or 3 fr. extra for going farther. The hire of a saddle- horse ought not to exceed 8 or 10 fr. The field of Waterloo is \2\ m. from Brussels, a diive of about 2 hrs. The high road to Xamiu- and Liege (E,te. 24) runs through Waterloo, and across the field of battle. The jS^iveUes diligence traverses it daily to and fro. Suffell runs a stage-coach daily from Bnissels. Fare to Waterloo and back, 5 fr. It starts from Rue Eabenstein. EOUTE 24. BRUSSELS TO LIEGE, BY WATERLOO AND NAMUR. — DESCENT OF THE MEUSE, NAMUR TO ilAESTRICHT. To Liege 16 posts = 78 Eng. m. The quickest way to Liege is by the Railroad through Louvain (Rte. 26), and to Namur by the railroad through Hal (R. 28) ; but the following road pos- sesses the recommendation of passing by Waterloo and the beautiful vaEey of the Meuse. English Stage-coach daily to Waterloo. Diligence to Nivelles. Near the village of Ixelles a good view of Brussels and of the country far ^nd wide is obtained, on which account it is a crowded place of resort with the citizens upon Sundays. About 2 m. from Brussels the road enters or skirts the Forest of Soigne^ or Soignies, now much curtailed and partly converted into cornfields. Byron, by a poetical licence, has identified it with the ancient Forest of Ardeimes. The march of the British troops through it, on their way to the battle, is described by him in these beautiful lines : — " Ardennes waves above them her green leaves, Dewy with nature's tear-drops, as they pass. Grieving^, if au;,'ht inanimate e"er grieves, Over the unrelurning brave, — alas ! Ere evening to be trodden like the grass Which now beneath them, but atiove shall grow In its next verdure, when this fiery mass Of living valour, rolling on the foe, And burning with high hope, shall moulder cold and low." The forest is about 9 m. long and 7^ broad. 2 Waterloo. — Inn : H. de 1' Ar- genteuil. This tillage, on the outskirts of the forest, about 10 m. from Brussels, was the head-quaiters of the English army on the days before and following the battle to which it has given its name (June 17 and 19, 1815). The Duke's quarters were in the Post-house opposite the chm'ch. Here, after 16 hrs. in the saddle, he dismotmted from his faithfriL steed Copenhagen (long afterwards a pensioner in the paddocks of Stratfieldsaye), and the spirited ani- mal, conscious of the tennination of his laboui's, is stated to have kicked out in a manner which had neai'ly proved fatal to his rider. The moment a traveller comes in sight of Waterloo he will be assailed by guides and relic-venders, claiming the honom- of sei-ving him in the capa- city of guide. The only mode of ap- peasing the clamoui-s, and rescuing him- self from the annoyance, is to fix upon one or other, infonning him at the same time what "«'ill be his remimeration. 3 or 4 francs will be enough for his services over the whole field ; but if this be not settled beforehand, he will not hesitate to demand at least double. English travellers seeking a guide to the Field may safely resort to Serjt. Mun- day, late of the 7th Hussars, who lives half way between the village and the Field of Waterloo. He may also be heard of at the Waterloo Museum, formed by the late Serjt. Cotton opposite the Hotel de la Colonne, which contains some really interesting objects. The best Belg. guides are Martin Viseur, Martin Pii-son, Jean Jacques Pierson, and Jacques IDeligne ; the last and Viseur speak English. The little Church and churchyard of Waterloo arc crowded with melancholy memorials of English ofiicers : they con- tain nearly 30 tablets and monuments to those who fell. Belgium. EOUTE 24. — WATERLOO. 75 " Many a wounded Briton there was laid, With such poor help as time mii;ht then allow From the fresh carnage of the field convey'd ; And they whom human succours could notsave Here in its precincts found a hasty era^'e. And here on marble tablets set on high, In English line^ by foreign workmen trac'd, Are names familiar to an English eye ; Their brethren here the fit memorials plac"d. Whose unadorn'd inscriptions brietly tell Their gallant comrades" rank, and where they fell." SOUTHEY. Among the cmiosities of "Waterloo, to the exaniination of which the most strenuous persuasion is used to invite the passing stranger, is the grave of the Marquis of Anglesea' s leg, and the house in which it was cut off, and where the hoot belonging to it is preserved ! The owner of the house to whose share this relic has fallen finds it a most lucrative soxu'ce of revenue, and will, in spite of the absurdity of the thing, probably bequeath it to his childi-en as a yaluable property. He has inteiTed the leg- most decorously within a coffin, under a weeping willow, and has honoured it with a monimient and an epitaph. Waterloo is now nearly joined to Jilont St. Jean, a long straggling village (the Hotels are decent Httle Inns), though once almost a mile from it, and lying on the edge of the field of battle. Here the road divides : the branch on the rt. leads to Xivelles ; the other, continuing straight on, is the high road to Genappe and Xamur. Travellers ought not to leave their carriage at Waterloo, or even at Mont St. Jean, as it is still a mile short of the centre of the field, and this mile will considerably increase the long walk which they must at any rate take in order to see the gi'ovmd to advantage. It is more prudent to drive on to Hou- goumont, I2 m. If the traveller in- tend to proceed on to Xamur, and not to retiu-n to Biiissels, the cariiage must stop at La Belle Alliance, which is a sorry kind of public-house. Leaving the village of Mont St. Jean, the road reaches an open country, almost entirely without trees ; it ascends a gentle rise, and passes the large farm- house with offices called Ferme de Mont St. Jean, which during the battle was filled with wounded British, and served as a sort of hospital. The Mound siu-- ! mounted by the Belgic Lion, by far the ; most conspicuous object in the field of Waterloo, now appears in sight. It j maiks the spot which may be consi- dered the centre of the confiict. I The field had been examined by the Didce of Wellington in the previous year. In a '■'■Memorandum on the de- fence of the frontier of the Netherhmds" addressed to Lord Bathurst, 22nd Sept. 1814, he says, "About Nivelle, and between that and Binch, there are many advantageous positions for an army, I and the enti-ance to the foret de Soignies i by the high road which leads to Brussels j from Binch, Charleroi, and Namur, ' would, if worked upon, afford others," ' — Despatches, xii. 129. Though not a ! strong position, it was the best between i Quatre Bras and Biiissels available for ; the protection of that capital. I On arri^-ing at the end of this ascent, ; the traveller finds himself on the brow ; of a hill or ridge extending on the rt. i and 1. of the road, with a gentle hol- j low or shallow valley before him, and j another ascent and nearly correspond- j ing ridge beyond it. Along the ridge 1 on which he stands the British army '• was posted, while the position of the I French was along the opposite heights, I The road on which we ai'e travelling intersected the 2 armies, or, so to speak, separated the 1. wing of the British and rt. wing of the French from the main bodies of their respective armies. To render the decli's*ity more gradual, the road has been cut through the crest of the ridge several feet deep, so as to form a sort of hoUow way. At this point 2 Monuments have been erected close to the roadside ; that on the right {^ in the plan), a pillar to the memory of Col. Gordon, bearing a most touching epi- taph, well worth perusal ; that on the left (5), an obelisk in honour of the j Hanoverian officers of the German Legion who fell on the spot. Hereabouts the high road is traversed nearly at right angles by a small coimtry cross-road. Diuing the first part of the action the Duke of WeUmg- ton stood in the angle fonned by the crossing of these 2 roads, and on the rt. of the highway, at a little distance from a solitary cbn (^ in the plan), 76 ROUTE 24. — WATERLOO. Sect. I. Belgium. called the "Wellington Tree, from an unfounded report that the Duke had placed himself beneath it during the action. The Duke knew better than to post himself and his staff close to an ROUTE 24. WATERLOO. ir -was nearly on a line with La Belle Alliance, at some distance on the rt. of the road. The Prussians have erected a cast-iron monument (^) at a short dis- tance on the left, in memory of their object which must inevitably serve as a i fellow-coimti-vmen who fell here. Thi mark for the enemy to fire at. Upon the strength of this story, however, the elm, after being mutilated and stripped by relic-himters, was cut down and sold, some time after the battle, to an Englishman. About half-way down in the hollow which separated the 2 armies, and in which the most bloody combats took place, is the Fai-m of La Haye Sainte (^) close to the roadside on the rt. It was occupied by the soldiers of the German Legion, and gallantly defended till their ammunition was exhausted, when they were literally cut to pieces : the French " got possession of it about 2 o'clock, from a circumstance which is to be attributed to the neglect of the officer commanding on the spot, and were never removed from thence till I commenced the attack in the evening ; but they never advanced further on that side." — Desjxi.tches, xii. 610. A temble carnage took place in the house and garden, and the building was riddled with shot. Close to this house a spot is shown as the grave of Shaw the valorous Life- guardsman, who killed 9 Frenchmen with his own hand in the battle. 2s ot far off, on the opposite side of the road, a vast accumulation of bodies of men, intermixed with horses, were bxuied in one common grave. It was near this spot that the brave General Picton was Jailed, and Colonel Ponsonby woimded. 5 Scotch regiments were engaged in this part of the fight. If we now proceed across the valley and up the opposite slope, we reach the farm of La Belle Alliance, a solitary white house, on the 1. of the road ('), now a poor public-house. It was occu- pied by the French, whose lines were drawn up close behind it ; though towards the end of the engagement Napoleon in person marshalled his im- perial guards in front of it for the final charge. Napoleon's place of observa- tion diuiug a great part of the battle j loss in the battle amoimted to nearly j 7000 ; it occtured chiefly in the vicinity I of Planchenoit, a vUlage on the 1. of ! the road, beyond La Belle Alliance, which was stormed and retaken 3 times. It has been erroneously stated that Bliicher met the Duke after the battle at La BeUe Alliance; but the fact is, that he did not overtake the Duke till he was 2 m. beyond the field, at Maison Eouge, or Maison du Eoi, on the road to Genappe. Here the Duke gave orders for the halt of his troops. In spite of the fatigues of the day, he had pursiied the French in person till long after dark ; and when Colonel Harvey, who accompanied him, pointed out the danger he ran of being fired at by strag- glers from behind the hedges, he ex- claimed, "Let them fire away: the victory is gained, and my life is of no value now." A little way beyond La Belle Al- liance is the house of Coster (^), Na- poleon's guide (since dead) ; and near this spot a glimpse may be had of the faiTu of Hougoumont, 1 m. off on the rt. Gros Caillou (">), a farm-house in which Napoleon slept, was biunt in consequence by the Pnissians next day, to show their hatred of their enemy. The foregoing enumeration of the various localities of the field has been made in the order in which a traveller woidd pass them in following the high road from Brussels. If he intend to tiu-n aside and examine the field more minutely, the following description may assist him : — The Mound of the Belgic Lion (2) is by far the best station for sm-veying the field. It is a vast tiunulus, 200 ft. high, beneath which the bones of fiiends and foes lie heaped indisciiminately together. A flight of steps leads up to the top. The lion was cast by Cockerill of Liege, and is intended to stand on the spot where the Prince of Orange was woimded. "The moimd and the lion have 78 ROUTE 24. — WATERLOO. Sect. I. equally been tlie subject of ill-natured censures, but would appear appropriate enough, since they serve at once as a memorial, a trophy, and a tomb." — Family Tour. The present appearance of the field differs considerably from what it was at the time of the battle, owing to the exca- vation made alongthe front of the British position, to obtain earth for this arti- ficial mound. The ridge of Mont St. Jean has been considerably reduced in height ; and the spot where the Dvike of "Wellington stood is quite cut away ; the gi'ound near being lowered several feet by the removal of the earth. From the top of the Mound it will be perceived that the ground is a per- fectly open and imdulating plain. The British force was disposed in 2 lines along one of these undulations : the foremost line occupied the brow of the eminence, and was partly protected by a hedge^ lamning from Mont St. Jean to Ohain, which gave the name to the farm of La Haye Sainte {^) ; the second stood a little way behind, on the re- verse of the slope, so as to be partly sheltered from the enemy's fire. The British were separated by the shallow valley above mentioned — varying from 500 to 800 yards in breadth— from the French, who were posted on the oppo- site ridge. The situation of both armies was in many parts mthin point blank range of their opponents' artillery. The position of the British from rt. to 1. did not much exceed a mile and a half, — " small theatre for such a tra- gedy ;" yet on this limited front did its commander place and manceu^a•e an army of 54,000 men, a rem^arkable in- stance of concentration of force. It was di-awn up in a sort of cur^^e, to suit the gToimd along the heights, and the rt. Tvdng extended as far as Merbe Braine. The rt. flank of the centre stood 400 yards behind the house of Hougoimiont (^), which was very strongly occupied ; the 1. of the centre was posted at a considerable distance \jchind the farm-house of La Haye "Sainte («), which stood nearly midway between the 2 armies, and was also occupied and fortified as well as its small size and the time would admit. The distance between the 2 farms of Hougoxmiont and La Haye Sainte is 1300 yards. The French columns could not pass between them M'ithout being exposed to a flank fire, nor did Napo- leon think it pnident to leave 2 such posts in his rear in the possession of his enemy ; and his fii'st efforts, previous to advancing against the English line, were to make himself master of them. The British army remained during the whole day firm in its position ; and, formed into squares, received on this ridge, in front, and on each side of the gi'ound now occupied by the Mound, the furious charges of the French cavalry, who were on the plateau be- tu^ecn the 2 high roads nearly ~ hr., all firing having ceased on both sides. At the time of the appearance of the Prussians not a square had been broken or shaken ; the British had not swerved an inch backwards, but were rather in advance of their first position. The Duke says, writing to Lord Beresford, Jiily 2, 1815, " Napoleon did not man- oeuvre at all. He just moved for- ward in the old st^'le in columns, and was di-iven off in the old style. The only difference was, that he mixed cavalry with his infantry, and sup- ported both with an enormous quantity of artOleiy. I had the infantiy for some time in squares, and we had the French cavalry walking about as if they had been our o^vn. I never saw the British infantry behave so well." Far on the 1., in the direction of "Wavi'e, are seen the woods tkrough which the Prussians first advanced to the battle. The Chateau of Hougouviont or Gou- mont (2), about 3^ m. fi'om "Waterloo ch., l^m. fi'om Mont St. Jean, and \ m. from La Haye Sainte, is decid- edly the most interesting spot in the field of Waterloo, not only for its importance in the history of the bat- tle, but because it still exhibits marks of the dreadful coniiict. It foimed, in fact, the key of the British position, and the possession of it would have enabled Napoleon to tm-n the English flank. It was on this account that he directed his utmost efforts towards it. At least 12,000 men, commanded by his Belgium. ROUTE 24. WATEELOO. 79 brother Jerome, ■srere brought at dif- ferent times against it, and the fierce attacks continued ^vith hardly any in- termission, dming the \vhole of the day. It was an okl-fashioned Flemish cha- teau, with walled gardens and farm offices attached to it. Had these build- ings been fonned for a forti-ess to resist the kind of assault which they endm*ed, they could scarcely have possessed greater advantages ; being suiTOimded on all sides by strong walls, which the Duke himself caused to be further for- tified by breaking loopholes in them, through which the garrison, if it may be so called, directed the fire of theu- musketry. But, notwithstanding its strength, so fuiious were the attacks, and so disproportionably great the nimi- ber of assailants, that it could not pos- sibly have held out, but for the bravery of the ti'oops by whom it was main- tained. The wood, orchard, and kitchen- garden were several times in the pos- session of the French, but they never succeeded in forcing the walled enclo- sures which siuTOunded the house. This little citadel, though set on fire by the howitzers and almost gutted by the flames, was maintained to the last by the Coldstream Guards. At the beginning of the battle the house stood in the centre of a wood ; but the trees were so mutilated by can- non-shot dviring the action, that few remain. The old house set on fire by French shells has been entirely re- moved; some of the outhouses, how- ever, still exhibit a shattered and patched-up appearance ; and the walls of the orchard retain the loopholes fonned by the English ; whilst on the outside they present a broken siu-face crimibling to the toxich, from the effect of the French musketry so long and vainly directed against them; the French, it is asserted, mistaking for some time the red brick wall for the English imiforms. " The Belgian yeo- man's garden wall was the safeguard of Europe, whose destinies himg on the possession of this house." In the little chapel is sho^vn a crucifix, saved (as the peasants say) by miracle from the flames, which, after destroying all about it, stopped on reaching the foot of I the cross. The autographs of Byron, i Southey, and "Wordsworth, were once : to be discovered among the names ■' which cover the walls. Though it is not intended to give a . history of the fight, the foUomng addi- tional facts will not be inappropriately introduced here : — the force which Xa- poleon brought into the field amoimted, by his o^TL confession, to nearly 75,000 men : 54,000 men composed the whole of the DiLke of Wellington's army ac- ' tually engaged ; of these only 32,000 ; were British or of the German Legion. It has been often asserted, and is still ' believed by many, that the Duke of I Wellington was taken by sui-prise at I Waterloo, and that he first heard the I news of the advance of the French in a ball-room. This is not the fact : the intelligence was brought to the Duke ; on Jiuie 15, by the Prince of Orange, ' who foimd him within 100 yards of ■ his quarters in the park at Binissels, \ about 3 o'clock ; and by 5 the same I evening orders had been sent to all the ' divisions of the British army to break I up their cantonments, and move on the 1. of Quatre Bras. A proposal was ! made to put oft' the baU intended to be I given by the Duchess of Richmond that ' evening at Brussels ; but it was thought : better to let it proceed, and thus to keep the inhabitants in ignorance of the com'se of events : the Duke therefore I desired his principal officers to be pre- i sent, but to take care to quit the ball- room as soon after 10 as possible : he I himself stayed till 12, and set off for the ■• army at 6 next morning. On the mom- I ing of the 16th, the Duke, having finished the disposition of his forces, I rode across the coimtry to Bliicher, at Ligny, being unwilling to tiiist to any I one the important point of conceiting measures for the co-operation of the I Prussians. Bliicher then promised to support him with 2 di-\-isions of his ai-my, in case Napoleon should direct his principal attack against the British. This fact is important, and not generally j knowm. Another common error respect- i ing this battle is, that the British were ; on the point of being defeated when the Prussians amved : this is sufficiently refuted by the testimony of the Prussian 80 ROUTE 24. — WATERLOO TO NAMUR. Sect. I. general, Miiffling, wlio expressly says that " the battle coiold have afforded no favourable result to the enemy, even if the Prussians had never come up." The Prussian army was expected to join the British at 2, but it appears from UlUcher's despatch that it was half-past 4 before a gun vras fired by them, and that it was half-past 7 before they were in sufficient force to make any impres- sion on the French rt. At that horn- Napoleon had exhausted his means of attack. He had no force in reserve but the 4 battalions of the Old Guard. These gave way on the advance of the British line. The story of the Duie's having thrown himself into the middle of a square of infantry during the charges of the French cavalry is also a pure fiction. The fertility of the ground on which the battle was fought increased greatly for several years after it took place. Kowhere were richer crops produced in the whole of Belgium, and the com is said to have waved thickest, and to have been of a darker colour, over those spots where the dead were inteiTcd, so that in spring it was possible to dis- cover them by this mark alone. " But when I stood beneath the fresh green tree, Which living waves where thou didst cease to live. And saw around me the wide fields revive With fruits and fertile promise, and the Spring Come forth her work of gladness to contrive, With all her reckless birds upon the wing, I turn'd from all she brought to those she could not bring." Byron. ** Was it a soothing or a mournful thought, Amid this scene of slaughter as we stood, Where armies had with recent fury fought, To mark how gentle Nature still pursued Her quiet course, as if she took no care For wliat her noblest work had suffer'd there?" South ey. The stranger arriving at "VTaterloo is commonly set upon by a nujnerous horde of relic-himters, who bother him to buy buttons and bullets. The fur- rows of the plough dming many suc- ceeding springs laid bare numberless melancholy memorials of the fight — half-consumed rags, bullets coiToded and shattered, fragments of accouti-e- ments, bones and skulls ; but when the real articles failed, the vendors were at no loss to invent others ; so that there is little fear of the supply being ex- hausted. Beggars, too, a most perse- vering class of tormentors, beset every path, in many instances apparently without the pretext of poverty. In 1705 the Duke of Marlborough was within an inch of fighting the French nearly on the same ground as Wellington. His head-quarters were at Fiischermont, and the French were posted across the Brussels road. He was thwarted, however, by the pig- headed obstinacy or cowardice of the Dutch commissioners who accompanied his ai-my. Waterloo to Namur. The part of Belgium through which our route lies has been called the "Cockpit" of Europe, and has been for ages the grotind upon which the powers of Europe have decided their quarrels. Besides the fields of Water- loo and Quatre Bras, through which the road passes, Wavre, Fleurus, Ligny, and the little village of Ramillies, where Marlborough gained one of his most fa- mous victories over the French and Bava- rians, lie within the pro-vdnce of Brabant, or only a short distance off our road. I5 Genappe. — Inn : Hotel Martineau, indifferent, 17 m. from Brussels : 1800 inhab. It was on the road, a little way out of the town, that the Prussians captured the carnage of Xapoleon, and nearly took him prisoner in it, on the night after the battle. [rt. A road leads to XiveUes, 11 m. distant {Inn : Coiu"onne), a town of 7844 inhab. The Ch. of St. Gertrude, consecrated 1 048, is a very noble edifice of Romanesque architectui-e. It pos- sesses the relics of St. Gertnide, daugh- ter of Pepin, Maire du Palais, in an elaborate shi-ine in the form of a church, with all the most minute Gothic details, of metal gilt. It is placed over the high altar. Also two pulpits can-ed by Delvaux ; one, of wood, represents Elijah in the Desert ; the other, of marble, the Good Samaritan. Under the massive tower is a fine cr^^pt of Bomanesque style, much resorted to by pilgrims to St. Gertrude's shrine, who squeeze themselves thi'ough between Belgium. EOUTE 24. — QUATEE BRAS. FLEURUS. LIGXY. 81 one of the pillars and th.e -vrall, as a ciu-o for illness. This practice arises from a legend that St. Geitrude, when pursued by a prince, \rho sought her in marriage, escaped from his impor- tunities thi-ough a gap in a -v^all, in order to preserve her yovt of i)erpetual vii'ginity. The smaller tower of the chm-ch contains the chimes : the hovu's are struck by a colossal figui-e of an armed knight kno^m as Jean de Xi- velles. The cloister adjoining the chuix'h formerly belonged to an abbey founded by the Saint, and of which she became the head. The chapter con- sisted of 36 canons and 42 canonesses ; but the whole community was imder the rule of the abbess. The qualifica- tion for election depended on a descent which could show arms with 16 quar- terings : the Duli;es of Brabant soon encroached on their authority and pri- vileges. The cloister appears from its style to be of the 11th or 12th cent., not unlike what in England is called transition Xomian.] Between Quatre Bras and Xivelles is the estate presented by the King of the Xetherlands to the Duke of Wel- lington, in gratitude for his great ser\T.ces. 3 m. E. of Genappe is the extensive Ahheij of Villers in ruias, of Romanesque architecture. The chiuxh was dedi- cated 1272. About l:^m. fromGenapjje is the village of Boisy, where Godfi-ey of Bouillon, the leader of the first cru- sade, was bom, 1129. Tilly, 6 m. fr-om Genappe, is the birthi^lace (1559) of the general of the 30 years' war, the opponent of Gustavus Adolphus, Coimt Tzerclas de TlU^'. Nearly 3 m. from Genappe our road passes Quatre Bras, so called because 4 roads, from Brussels, Charleroi, Xi- velles, and Xamur, meet at this spot. An ingenious innkeeper of the place has discoA-ered a different meaning for Quatre Bras, and kindly ti-anslatcs it, for the benefit of the English, by the words " Three Legs !" Here was fought that memorable engagement in which the brave Duke of Brunswick fell, at the head of his devoted black band (June 16, 1815). This position was con- sidered highlv important by the Duke [b. & R.]' of "Wellington, as being the key of all the roads in the neighbourhood. He co mm anded in person during the en- gagement, and repidsed Marshal Xey, secm-ing the retreat of the British upon Waterloo, which had been rendered necessary by Bliicher's defeat at Lig-ny, in the face of the superior cavalry "of Xapoleon. The Duke was at one mo- ment sm-roimded and nearly made pri- soner in the farm-house which stands in the X.E. angle of the 4 roads, by an unexpected charge of French cavalry, who dispersed 2 regiments of the allies, but were in their turn chiven back by the English infantry, and none of the foremost of the pursuers were allowed to escape. The road which continues to the S. leads through Gosselics to Charleroi, 2~ posts from Genappe : that which bears to the S.E. leads to 2 Sombreffe. [4 m. S.W. of Som- breffe lies the -soilage of Fleurus, which gives a name to the victory gained here by the French over the Austrians in 1794. The same fields were "vs-itness to the repulse of the Prussians, imder Bliicher, by Buonaparte, who di'ove them, after an obstinate resistance, from thefr position at Ligny, a village 2 m. farther on the 1. of the road to Som- breffe : this occiuTcd 2 days before the battle of Waterloo, Jime 16, 1815. The Duke of WeUiugton visited Blii- cher a short while before the com- mencement of the action, and here con- certed with him measures of futm'e co-operation on the 18th. The Duke's practised eye perceived at once the fault}' disposition of the Pmssian army, and he foretold the defeat which speedily followed. The Prussians were drawn up on the 1. of ovir road, near St. Amand and Ligny ; Bliicher stood near the Mill of Bussy. After the French had broken through the Prus- sian line he headed a charge of cavalry in person ; but, his horse liaAing been shot under him, he was thrown to the groxuid, and 2 French regiments rode over him. In spite of his defeat, how- ever, he maintained his communica- tions with the English, and made good his retreat to WaATc : no beaten army ever rallied quicker. Two other bat- 82 ROUTE 2-4. — xa:,iur. Sect. I. ties had been foiiglit on nearly the same ] beautiful, and the best ricv: is from the groimd in 1622 and 1690.] 1 heights occupied by the commanding The road is uninteresting until, after crossing a small stream, it reaches the height overhanging Xamur, ^^-hich com- mands a fine ^-ie^r of its rock-built citadel and the rallcy of the ]Meuse. 2^ Xa:wur {Inns : H. de HoUande ; H. de Harscamp ; both good), capital of the Atuatici. Ciesar (B. G. 2, 29) well describes its situation, and its captm-o by him. It is now the ca- pital of the pro^-ince of Xamm', and a strong fortress with 22,200 inhab., built at the j miction of the Sambre and Meuse. Owing to its numerous sieges and bombardments, it possesses few old Citadel, which itself is well worthy of a visit as a work of art : — an order of admission must be obtained from the commandant in the town. Xamur and Huy are among the number of for- tresses greatly strengthened after the war, xmder the inspection of the Duke of Wellington, and partly at the ex- pense of Great Britain. They form part of the gTcat barrier on the side of France ; the work of centuries to erect, at the cost of vast sums of money, and as vast an expenditiu-e of blood. Xamm- is the Belgian Sheffield ; — its cutlery is celebrated, and is largely anapomuaruiuems, 1L pUbbU&SUS luw uiu. us uuLiCi_y la ucxcuxatcu, ain-i io iitig^i^ buildings, and it has scarcely any ob- I manufactured. It is said to approach jects of interest, imless perhaps the tra veUer, calling to mind " my \incle Toby," be induced, on his accoimt, to pay a visit to Porte St. Kicholas. Xamm- was taken by Louis XIV. in 1092. Racine has \\Titten an account of the siege, and Boileau celebrated its cap- ture in a worthless ode ; it was retaken by the English imder William III. from the French, after a siege of 10 weeks, in 1695. It was in this me- morable siege that "my uncle Toby" was siipposed to be engaged. The Cathedral of St. Aubin, one of the handsomest modem churches in Belgium, with a Corinthian facade, was finished in 1766. It contains the mausoleimr of Don John of Austiia, the conqiieror at Lepanto, who died in the camp at Bouge, a mile from Xamiir, in 1573, not without suspicion of poi- son from the jealousy of his brother Philip II. On the rt. of the altar is a monument to Bishop Pisani, by a sculptor of Ghent, 1829. A new pidpit, erected in 1848, from the designs of M. Geerts, of Lou vain, deserves notice. The figui-es cut in oak, life-size, are fine. Beneath the pulpit is a gi'oup representing the Virgin guarding the City of Xamur fi'om the Demon of Pestilence. Xamm- is allegoricaUy re- presented by a female. The Ch. of St. Loup, buHt by the Jesuits, is highly enriched internally with marble. It has a roof elaborately carved in stone by a brother of the order. The situation of Xamur is most nearer to the English than any made on the continent, but is greatly in- ferior. The mines of coal, iron, and marble, situated in the neighbourhood, give employment to an industrious population. The crawfish of the Meuse are celebrated, and the trout of the Sambre not to be despised. A dam of masoniy is thrown across the Sambre at Xamur, with the ^'iew of rendering it navigable. Xamm- has a bridge over the Sambre, and one over the Meuse. From the rt. bank of the river the view of Xamm-, and its lofty citadel standing on a high promontory, at whose foot the 2 rivers imite, is vci-y pictm-esque, and the sceneiy continues of a most inter- esting character for many miles. 3 m. from Xanuu- is the Eremi- tage de la Montagnie, cut in the rock by Carmelite monks. The valley of the Meuse above Xamirr, towards Di- nant (Rte. 30), is even more picturesque than below the town. From Dinant an excirrsion may be made to the cavei-n of IJons on the Lcsse. (Bte. 31.) Diligence in 20 hrs. to Luxemburg — a day's work fi-om Xamur. (Ete. 29.) Railroad to Charleroi. (Rtes. 28 and 30.) Railroad to Lie'je, opened 1850. It has cost about 1,200,000^., chiefly of British capital. It is a fine work ; the engineer is G. Bennic, Esq. It runs close to the river nearly the whole way, and on the 1. bank. The length is 01 kilom., or 38i Eug. m. The Xa- Belgium. ECU IE 24. — THE MEUSE. HUY. 83 miu' station is outside the Porte de Fer. Steamers ply on the IMense, -n-lien there is water enough, between Xamur and Liege. In going to Liege the voyage of about 45 ni. is performed in 4 hrs. ; from Liege to iSTamur takes 6 or 7 hi's. Diuing the summer 2 steamers a day leave Naniur for Liege, — one at G A.M., the other at 3 p.m. The hanks of the Meuse between ya- mur and Lieje are hardly sui-passed in beauty by any river scenery in X. Eui-ope : rock, wood, and water have done their utmost, yet the scenery is not properly moimtainous. The Meuse has been compared to the Wye ; but is even more romantic than the English river. " What lovelier home could gentle fancy choose ? Is this the stream whose cities, heights, and plains, War's favourite playground, are with crimson stains Familiar as the morn with pearly dews? The morn, that now, along the silver Meuse, Spreading her peaceful ensi-ns, calls the swains To tend their silent boats and ringings wains, Or strip tlie bough whose mellow fruit bestrews The ripening corn beneath if. As mine eyes Turn from the fortified and threatening hill, How sweet the prospect of yon watery glade, With its grey locks clustering in pensive shade, That, shaped like old monastic turrets, rise From the smooth meadow-ground, serene and still!" Wordsworth. The Meuse* affords a pleasing mix- ture of cultivation and wildness, of ac- tive industiy and quiet nature, smoking steam-engines and naked and abrupt cliffs of limestone, ruined castles and flom-ishing villages, with huge many- windowed mills and factories, which give an agreeable variety to the road. The district swarms with population all the way to Liege, and the soil is in the highest state of culture ; the lower j grounds occupied by the richest com- ; fields and hop-grounds, or the most i verdant meadows. Those, with the \ winding river flowing between them, I form the featui'es of a most beautiful '. landscape. The numerous quarries in , the limestone cliff along the river banks ! affoi'd a very excellent marble, which ; is cut mto blocks, and sent doAvn the j river to Holland, where it is tised for . * Mr. Dudley Costello's " Valley of tlie | Meuse" contains full details respecting Koutes 24 and 30. | i flag-stones, and even for finer pm-poses. j On the banks are seen the red stains I of the earth which furnishes alum to numerous works. (The 1. and rt. refer to the left and right banks of the river : j the distances between the several sta- ; tions are given in kilometres.) ; Xot far from Xamur the chateau of ^ Brumagul is passed, and (/.) beneath j some precipitous cliffs, — I /. 8| Marche les Dames Stat., the j mansion of the Due dMremberg, close j to some iron-works. It occupies the site of an abbey founded, in 1101, by 139 noble ladies, whose husbands had j gone to the crusade along with Godfrey : of Bouillon. j I. 2| Xamcche Stat., a pretty village, shi-ouded by orchards. rt. Schlayen. — The neighbourhood abounds in coal-mines. J. Seilles, a sti-aggling village, with marble quarries and limekilns. rt. 75 Andenne Stat., a mannfac- tirring place, having potteries. Clay for tobacco-pipes is exported hence to HoUand. I. 6 1 Basse Oha Stat., a restored castle. The cultui-e of the vine begins here, but it produces a poor wine. rt. On the heights are the ruins of I Beaufort Castle. Before reaching the \ next station, at Huy, the railway is i carried thi-ough a tunnel, in order to I avoid a bend of the river : the fine I scenery is thus shut out of "view. j rt. of Huy (pronoimced AYe) Station. I Inn: Poste, at the water-side. This ' town and forti-ess, with 8000 Inhab., is I romantically situated on the Meuse, which divides it into 2 parts, and is traversed by an ancient stone bridge. Here the Meiise is joined by the little river Hoyoux, the scenery of which, for many miles above the jimction, is very picturesque. Xear Huy is the cul- minating point of the beauties of the scenery of the Meuse. The Citadel^ repaii-ed and sti'cngthened on the most approved plans of modern fortification, imder the dii'ection of skilful English engineers, since 1815, commands the passage up and do'w'n the valley of the Meuse. The works ai'e partly excavated in the solid rock, and high walls of most massive masom-%- have been added f2 84 ROUTE 24. XEUFMOUSTIEE. SERAIXG. Sect. I. to the natural precipices on which it stands. Strangers are allowed to see the fortifications. The Collegiate Ch. of Notre Dame, founded by St. Matemus, situated under the citadel, is approached on one side by a gateway, surmounted with sculptures in relief, from the Life of the Virgin ; the date of the present building is 1311 ; the interior is of a graceful style of Gothic, and is certainly worthy of being examined. In c>ne of the suburbs stood the abbey of Xeufmoustier (i. e. Konun Monas- terium), founded by Peter the Hermit, the preacher of the first Ciiisade (d. 1115), who was himself buried in it. His remains and monument were re- moved to Rome in 1634: part of the cloisters remain; the chuix-h is gone. The site is in the property of the Baron dc Cattus, who allows strangers to see the Hermit's biuial-place — a cruciform vault in the present garden. Xeuf- moixstier was one of the 17 convents Avhich existed here, together with 14 parish chm'ches, while the town was under the dominion of the Prince Bishop of Liege, though the total popu- lation at the time did not exceed 5000 ! Hviy contains many curious relics of its ancient religious houses, now turned into workshops, &:c. At Huy the post-road changes from the rt. to the 1. bank of the river. The hills are less lofty and precipitous than ab.ove Huy, Zinc and calamine works of considerable magnitude may be seen in full activity (1.) at Ampsin, near Huy, and at other places along the valiey of the Meuse, particularlj- on the Liege side of Huy. They are marked by the red stains of the refuse aloug the banks. I. Corphalie, an extensive zinc ma- nufaetor^' ; there are mines of calamine near this. rt. Chateau de Xeufville, in the old French style, with 2 ttuTets. 8^ Amay Stat. I. The stately old abbey of Flone, a red brick building, now the residence of a lawyer. At Engis Stat., close to the raih-oad, there are alum- works. I. On an elevated and precipitous rock rises the Chateau of Choldcr, an old building, faced with a modem front, of Italian architecture, surmounted by a red tower. It is the cradle of the family Smiet de Choquier, one of whom was Pegent of Belgium before the election of King Leopold. It was once taken and burnt by the Huitois. The scarped rock is skirted by the railway. Hereabouts the Meuse passes from the limestone into the coal formation — into a region of steam-engines, smoking chimneys, and furnaces. 11 FlemaUe Stat, At this station a branch turns off which joins the Mech- lin and Aix-la-ChapeUe railroad on the 1, bank. The main line of railway, which rims into Liege, crosses the t Meuse on a bridge of 5 arches, 82 ft. j span : opposite, rt., is Yal St. Lambert, I where are the largest glass-works on i the Continent. \\ m. lower down is rt. 4i Seraing Station, a populous j \'iUage, stretching nearly a mile along ' the bank of the Meuse, and occupied by workmen, connected by a handsome suspension bridge thrown over the j Meuse •s\-ith (1.) Jemeppe. This co- ; lossal establishment was formed by the ! enterprising manufacturer the late John Cockerill, 1816. It is perhaps the j largest manufactory of machineiy in the I world ; and occupies the former Palace \ of the Prince Bishops of Liege, which { now serves but as the fa9ade or vestibule ! of the other vast constructions since j added to fit it for its present pm-pose, ; extending f m, back from the river, J over the space once the Episcopal gar- i dens, now blackened wnth coal and piled up with iron. Amidst the smoke and flames issuing from its 40 or 50 tall chimneys, its palatial and ecclesi- astical character have alike nearly dis- j appeared. The vast pile of building forms a little town of itself ; iron and j coal are extracted from mines within I its walls, which also enclose a canal and railroad leading down to the river, 4 blast fiu-naces, 15 puddling furnaces, rolling-mills, and forges, where ii'on is ■wrought into aiticles of all sorts from penknives up to steam-engines and locomotives, inferior ordy to those made in England. A locomotive costs 37,500 , fr. The Lion, on the field of Waterloo, ROUTE 24. — LI^GE, FUBLIC BUILDI^'GS. Belgium. Tivas cast here. 3000 to 4000 -workmen are employed at Seraing, iii addition to 15 steam-engines, eqnivalent to 700- horse poorer. Mr. Cockciill was ori- ginally in pai-tnership with the late King of Holland ; but after his expul- sion from Belgium, in 1830, Mr. C. purchased his share. Mr. C. died at Warsaw in 1840, and Seraing has since been disposed of to a company, styled " La John Cockerill Societe," by whom it is now worked. The place is not shown, except to persons bearing letters of introduction, which may be obtained in the office at Liege. 2 Ougi-ee Stat. Q\ Lie'je Station. (Longdoz Stat.) [The branch which turns off at Fle- mcdle, along the 1. bank, is 1 1 kilom. = 6 m. 7 fluiongs, in length. The sta- tions are, 3i kilom. Jemeppe Stat. (%P^'^*^ *^ ^ I fcieramg. 2 Tilleur Stat. 05 Guillemins Stat, on the main line of railroad to Aix-la-Chapelle, and on the 1. bank of the river above Liege.] Liege ( Flemish, Luik ; German, Liittich.) — Inm: H. de Bellevue, op- posite the Pont de la Boverie, good; room, 1 -^ fr. and upwards ; breakfast, 1 fr. ; table-d'hote at 1, 2^ fr. ; H. d'^Vngleten-e, good; H. de Suede, near the Theatre, very good, and one of the best tables d'hote in Belgium ; Aigle Xoir ; H. de I'Eiu-ope, clean ; le Sauvage, opposite the Cathedral ; H. de France ; H. de Londres, good and moderate ; H. do rUnivers, close to the Eailway, good. Liege is finely situated at the junc- tion of the Ourthe with the Meuse, in a fertile valley most productive in vege- tables ; it has 76,379 Inhab., and no other Belgian town appears to be so thri%ing. The clouds of smoke usually seen from a distance hanging over it proclaim the manufacturing city, — the Birmingham of the Low Countries ; and the dirty houses, miu'ky atmosphere, and coal-stained streets, are the natural consequence of the branch of industry in which its iiihabitants are engaged. The staple mamifacture is that of fire- arms; Liege is, in fact, one great ar- moury, and produces a better article, it is said, at a low price, than can be 85 I made for the same sum in England. \ The saddlery is also very good here, I and a particular kind of coarse cloth I is manufactured in largo quantities. , There is a Eoyal Cannon Fomichy in the suburb of St. Leonhard, and Mr. Cockerill' s estabKshment manufactm-es spinning machinery and steam-engines to rival the English. The cause of this commercial prosperity is, as might be conjectured, the presence of coal in great abimdance close at hand. The mines are worked upon veiy -scientific ; principles : some of them are situated I so near to the town that their galleries I are carried under the sti'eets, so that I many of the houses, and even the bed of the river, are in some places under- mined. Pre-sdous to the Revolution j Holland was supplied -with coal from j Belgium ; but the home consrmiption j has since increased to such an extent, j from the numerous manufactories which j have sprimg up on all sides, that the I Belgian mines are now inadequate to supply the demand, and a law has been passed permitting the importation of coals fr'om Xewcastle. Liege once contained 40 religious houses, 3-2 parish chiux-hes, and 7 col- legiate chiu'ches, besides the cathedral. 21 chm-ches remain. The buildings best worth notice in Liege are, the Church of St. Jacques, and the com-t of the Palais de Justice, formerly palace of the Prince Bishop, built bv the Cardl. Bishop Erard de la Maix-k,' 1 533. The stxmted pillars of the colonnade which siuTounds it bear a resemblance to those of the ducal palace at Venice, and have a stiildng effect. Each pillar is carved with a different pattern. The front of the palace is modem, but in the rear remains much good Gothic of the 16th cent. A tower of brick rising over the roof, now a prison, was origi- nally the Bishop' s watch-tower. A new wing has been built in the olden style, to serve as a Government House, 1852. In front of the Bishop's palace stood the cathedral of St. Lambert ; utterly destroyed by the French revolutionists. The present Cathedral, foiTaerly the collegiate ch. of St. Paul, was foimded, in 967, by Bp. Heraclius. It is a fine building, 82 ft. high, of good propor- 86 ROUTE 24. — LIKGE. CHURCHES. UNIVERSITY. Sect. I. tions, surmounted by a black spke, ■with tuiTets at the angles (the choir of the 13th cent., the nave 1557) ; and its new cedar-^svood pulpit, carved by Geefs, -u-ith 5 marble statues beneath it (of EeHgion, M'ith SS. Peter, Paul, Lambert, and Hubert, also by Geefa), is an example of the perfection to which this art is brought in Belgium. It also contains a picture by Lairesse. No one is ever buried here ; why, is not kno"\STi. St. Jacques (date 1513-28), lately repaired by the govcmment, is the finest of the existing churches : the arches are elegantly fringed ; it possesses wide windows (filled with painted glass), elegantly mullioned ; net- work screens ; reeded pillars, branching into rich tra- cery, spreading over the roof, studded with embossed ornaments, containing within them gay arabescoes, medallions of saints, sovereigns, and prelates innu- merable, all most gorgeously, yet har- moniously,* painted and gilt. — Hope. The painted fjlass in the choir (date, t nrly in "the 16th cent.) ranks among the most perfect productions of the art in Exu-ope. This church may bo %'isited on the way to or from the railroad. Liege contains many chui'ches of great antiquity. St. Bartholomen^s Church., a Basilica, built about 1000, is finely caiwed in ft'ont, and possesses a beau- tiful hross font., a masterpiece of Gothic art in the beginning of the 13th cent. St. Lenis was consecrated in 990; it is chieflv Eomanesque ; the choir is Gothic a tower in a Moorish st^de. There is a good Adew fi'om the tower I of St. Martin's. ' The Universitij is a handsome build- : ing, erected by the late King of Hol- land in 1817. It contains a Museum, which, though not very complete or well aiTanged, possesses some objects of interest, as illustrating the natm-al his- tory of this part of Belgium ; such as I the collection of fossil bones fi-om this j and the neighbouring pro%-inces. " Xear j Liege there are numerous caverns, which have acquired celebrity fi-om the ; ] * Tlie painting of tlie roof is nearly the ] same as that of St. Anastasio, Verona, as given in Gruner's great \vorl< on Art in Italy. abundant and remarkable animal re- mains they have afibrded, and the in- terest attached to them is heightened by the discoveiy of human bones and skrdls in the same cave with bones of bears, hyaenas, the elephant, and rhi- noceros. It would appear, however, that the remains of man were intro- duced at a later period than those of the animals. The piincipal caves are those of Engis, Chokier, Pamioul, Engihoid, Huy, Fond dc Foret, Gof- fontaine." {T. T.) The library c^ai- tains, besides books, many curious MSS. collected fiom suppressed monasteries. A Botanic Garden, well stored with plants, and beautifully kept, is attached to the University. There are 17 pro- fessors, who lecture to about 500 stu- dents in the various facilities. Post Office^ Eue de la Eegence. Vigilantes^ § 22 A. There are 3 bridges over the ^Icuse : the Pont des Arches, the oldest, and lowest do-RTi the stream — the steamers brintr-to near it ; the Pont de la Boverie^ of 4 arches ; and the Pont du Val Benoit, for the passage of the railroad; and one over the Meurthe, a tnily handsome recent structure. The Casino in the outskirts of Liege, in the midst of some ornamental grounds, is worth a visit {§ 40) . English strangers are admitted to the balls given here. Outside the walls, in the convent of St. JvUan, Sir John Mande-\-ille. the English traveller, who died here 1372, was buried. The chapel exists, and a number of indiscriminate bones, but there is nothing to mark his grave. Gretiy, the composer, was bom here, in a house marked by an inscribed tablet on the front, in the Paie des Recollets, on the rt. bank of the Mouse. A statue of him, in bronze, 13 ft. high, by Geefs, is set up in the Square facing the University, which is called after him Place Gre'try. The florist should visit Makois' gar- den near Liege, one of the most cele- brated in Belgium : from it there is a fine view of the town. Liege, in media?val Latin, was called liCodium, and is the capital of the AValloons, who spread from this to Longwj' in France and to Mons, and Belgium. ROUTE 24. LIEGE. QUENTIN DUEWARD. 87 are veiy anxious not to be supposed Flemish, claiming a descent from the Ebiu-ones. The Walloon language, spoken by the lower orders, is a dialect, or rather idiom, of the French (see p. 7), and resembles the old French of the 13th cent., but contains many Celtic and some Teutonic words unkno'wn to French of any age. The AValloons, like the Swiss, sciwed in former times in the anuies of Sj)ain, Austria, and France ; they were generally enrolled into cavahy regiments : a regiment of 700 men composed the standing army or body-guard of the Ecclesiastical Princes of Liege. The GeiTiian Emperors, as early as the 10th cent., raised the Bishops of liege to the rank of sovereign and independent pi-inces, and bestowed ter- ritory upon them, which they held as a fief of the empire. At the time of the visit of Pope Innocent II. with St. Ber- nard, in 1131, the chapter of St. Lam- bert was the noblest known : of its 60 canons, 9 were sons of kings, 14 sons of dukes, 29 counts, and 7 barons ; one only was not of noble birth. The Pope sang mass before the Emperor Lothaire and the Empress, and crowned them in the cathedi-al. The government of the bishops was never strong, and the his- toiy of Liege is little better than a narrative of a succession of bloody re- volutions, in which a discontented pop-ulace sti-uggled for freedom and power and licence with a despotic and often incompetent iiiler. Liege, never- theless, remained under the dominion of its bishops down to the time of the French invasion, 1794. It is recorded that one of them had the audacity to declare war against Louis XIY. ; for which temerity he was chastised by having the town bombarded about his cars for 5 days, bv Marshal Boufflers, in 1691. '^ A "\dsit to Liege, and the ancient Bishop's palace, will call to the mind of an Englishman the vivid scenes and descriptions of Quentin Durward. He will, however, in vain endeavoiir to identifv manv of the places there spoken of with the spot. The BLshop's " Castle of Schonwaldt, situated about 10 m. from the town," cannot be Scraing, as it was not built till a much later period. Sir "Walter Scott never visited Liege himself, so that his localities are piu-ely imaginary ; yet from the vividness of his description of the town, and the perfect consistency of all his topogra- phical details, few readers would doubt that he was personally acquainted with it. He has also made a slight variation in the romance from the real facts of history, as far as relates to Liege ; and as the events on which he foimded the I novel are of the highest interest, and ' serve to illusti-ate the story of this : ancient " imperial free city," it may i not be amiss shortly to relate them. : The citizens of Liege, puffed up, as Philip de Comines says, by pride and : riches, gave constant proofs of their \ boldness and independence by acts of insubordination, and even of open re- bellion, against their liege lord, Charles : the Bold of Bm-gmidy, and against the i bishops, who were his allies or sup- : ported by him. He had inflicted severe \ chastisement upon the Liegeois after 1 his victory at St. Trond (when many thousands of them were left dead on the field), by abridging theii' pri^-iloges and ' taking a v.-ay their banners ; and when ; they submissively brought him the keys of the town, he refused to enter by the gates, but compelled them to batter : down the city wall for a distance of 20 fathoms, and fiU up the diteli. He then entered by the breach, with his : visor dov.Ta, his lance in rest, at the . head of his armed bands, as a con- : queror ; and fuither, to disable the bold i burghers fi'om mutiny, ordered all their ; foi-tifications to be demolished. This pimishment was inflicted in 1467 ; but it was so little regarded, that the very next year they again broke out into open revolt, at the instigation of secret j emissaries of Louis XL, seized upon ! the person of their bishop in his castle ' at Tongres, and brought him prisoner ; to Liege. j They were headed by one Jithn de i Tilde, 'or YiUe, called by the French Le Sauvagc : it is not improbable that ! he was an Englishman, whose real name ' was Wild, and that he was one of those \ lawless soldiers who at that time served i wherever they got best pay, changing ROUTE 24. — LIEGE. BESIEGED BY CHARLES THE BOLD. Sect. I. sides -vrhenerer it suited them. The Liegeois, under this Yilde, committed many acts of cruelty, cutting in pieces, before the bishop's eyes, one of his attendants, and miuxlering 16 others, \rho "vrere canons of the church, on the road to Liege. In Sir Walter Scott's romance "William de la Marck plays nearly the same part as "Wild ; but in reality this bishop succeeded soon after in making his escape. ' In 1482, 14 years after the events narrated in the novel, and long after the death of Charles the Bold, William de la Marck, The Wild Bour of Ardennes^ ^\'ishing to obtain the mitre for his son, mm'dered the Bishop of Liege, Louis de Bom-bon, -whom Charles the Bold had supported. "VNTien tidings of the proceedings of the men of Liege were brought to Charles the Bold at Peronne, hie im- mediately laid Louis under arrest, exactly as described in the novel, and compelled him to march against the rebels, at the head of his soldiers, while he led on his OAvn Burgundians. Louis showed little hesitation to comply with the proposal, though the citizens were his allies, and he had in fact fomented the rebellion. Nothing, however, ap- pears to have damped the courage of the Liegeois : they made 3 separate sallies out of their breaches and over their ruined walls. They were led on by the same Yilde, who in one of these attacks was slain, but not before he had laid low many of the bravest among the Burgujidian guards. Theu* last sally was plaimed at a moment when the invad- ing forces, tired out with long watch- ing, had taken off their aiTuoiu- and retired to rest, previous to the grand assault on the town, which Charles and Louis had arranged for the following morning. The foremost in this enter- prise were 600 men from a town called Franchimont, on the road betw^een Liege and Spa, firm allies of the citi- zens, and considered their bravest sol- diers. Like the Spartans and Romans of old, these 600 devoted themselves to the entei-prise of seizing or slaying the 2 princes, as they lay in their quarters before the town, or agi'eed to perish in the attempt. About midnight the Scotch archers and Burgimdian guards attached to the persons of the 2 sove- reigns were roused by a terrible alarm of the enemy, who had penetrated al- most up to the 2 houses in which the princes w^e lodged, without discoveiy. The attack was so sudden, and the con- fusion which ensued so much aug- mented by the jealousy which subsisted between the Duke and the King, each believing the other to be concerned in the plot, that the enterprise had nearly succeeded. But ha\T.ng recovered from the surprise, and hastily put on their armour, they succeeded at last, with the aid of their guards, in dri^^-ing back the assailants, and the brave meii of Fmnddinont were for the most part cut to^iet'es." The next day the city was stormed, as intended; but the invaders found less resistance than was expected. It appeared that the citizens had supposed themselves seciu'e on that day, because it was Sunday, and were taking some rest after the exertions of the preceding night. So unsuspicious were they in- deed, that the besiegers foimd the cloth laid in almost every house which they entered, as it happened to be dinner- time. Many were slaughtered at once, to appease the vengeance of Charles ; a great number fled to the woods, only to perish there of cold. The city was condemned by him to destruction ; and no sooner had he quitted it than it was set on fire in thi-ee places, and all the buildings, except chmx-hes or con- vents, biuTit to the ground. These events took place in 1468 ; before that time the number of inhabit- aijts exceeded 120,000. Much interesting matter, relating to the town and its environs, may be read in "Promenades Historiques dans le Pays le Liege, par le Docteur B — y." Environs. — A veiy extensive pros- pect may be obtained from the heights above the town, especially from the old Citadel on Mont St. "NValbm'g, on the 1. bank of the Mouse. Another good point of view is the Fort Chartreuse, an eminence on the opposite side of the valley. The junction of the 3 valleys of the Mouse, Ourthe, and Yesdre, close to Liege, with the outline of the Ar- BeJgvnn. ROUTE 26. LIEGE TO AIS-LA-CHAPELLE. 89 denues in the distance, forms a land- scape of no ordinaiy beauty. At Eohermont, a height above the Chai-treuso, the Anstrians, under the Prince of Cobm-g, suifcred a defeat (1794) from the French imder Jour- dain, which wrested the Pays-Bas for ever from the house of Austria. Herstal, see below. Excursions to Spa and Chaud Fon- taine, described Pde. 25, and to the caves of Maesti-icht, which will occupy 6 or 8 hrs. by steamer. In order to gain admittance to see the Iron Worhs at Seraing, a written order must be obtained fi-om the Cocke - lill Societe's office in Liege. An omni- bus goes thither eveiy hour. • Steamers ply, when there is water enough, daily to and fi-om Namur ; daily to Rotterdam, stopping for the night at Yenloo. Li^ge to Maestricht. — Steamers twice a-day, in 2J hrs., retm-ning in 4 h. Baggage is searched at the custom- houses. The landing-place of the steamers is close to the Pont des Arches. The river Meuse has been canalised between Liege and Maes- tricht, and the canal furnished with locks, so as to maintain a passage for vessels at all seasons. The first objects to remark are — 1. The Mont de Piete, of red brick with stone quoins, and the Eoyal Can- non Foimdr}', backed by the hall of the citadel. 1. A round tower; the stmnp of a burnt windmill. rt. Jupille, peeping from among the trees, with its ch., was the favourite resort of King Pepin, who died here 7U. rt. Souverain "Wandi-e. 1. About 3 m. from Liege is Herstal, birthplace of Pepin le Gros, Maire du Palais to the last Mero'S'ingian Kings of France. There are some fragments of a Prankish (.-) Palace with 2 turrets near the Town-house. The village has stretched itseK nearly 3 m. along the shore towards Liege, and is neaidy united to it. Its inhabitants are chiefly workpeople. rt. Chateau of Argenteau : belongs to the wealthy Count Mercy. Argen- ; teau is finely placed on the summit of i a rocky height. The court is con- j nected by a bridge with another rock i occupied by gardens. rt. Vise, once a fortress, was the head-quai-ters of Louis XIY. in 1673, during the siege of Maestricht. The i fortifications were razed by the inhabit- ! ants, 1775. j 1. Lixhe : Bc-Igian custom-house. ' rt. Eysden : Dutch custom-house. { The summit of the Pietersberg is j crowned by the Chateau Caster, be- ] longing to M. de Brouekere. The j ruins of a Roman fort, called Lichten- berg, are also -^-isible, and near it the entrance to the cavern. On the X. ' slope of the hiR run the walls of the i citadel. | 1. Maesti-icht (R. 27, p. 98). The \ Inns are a good way from the water- I side, but the guide to the quan-ies of the Pietersberg (Courtens) lives a little way within the gate, near the Ai-senal, : i ROUTE 25. i I LIEGE TO AIS-LA-CHAPELLE, BY VER- ; ! VIERS, RAILWAY. — VISIT TO SPA. i 55 kilom. = 34| m. i This Eailicag was finished in 1843- "| 44. Trains, in 2^ hrs., exclusive of a ' stoppage of 1 hr. at the custom-house i of Yerviers. Travellers bent on a pe- destiian excm-sion would be well repaid j by ascending the valley of the Yesdre i on foot as far as Dolhain. The coimtry between Liege and Aix- , la-Chapelle presented serious obstacles | to the foi-mation of a railway, which I have been overcome only by the utmost j skill and arduous exertions of the en- : gineer. The cost exceeded 25,000,000 ! ! francs; there are no less than 19 timnels ] in the Belgian part of the line alone, so that it has been compared to a needle I rim through a corkscrew. It is con- \ ducted across the Meuse by a fijie ] bridge {Pont da Val St. Benoit) of 7 arches, 469 ft. long, a little way above ; Liege. It aftei-wards foUows nearly I the same line as the high road as far as i Limburg, crossing the Yesdre by 17 j bridges, and repeatedly piercing the j rock. 1 f3 ] 90 r.OUTE 25. — CHAUDFOXTAIXE. FRANCHlMONT. Soct. I. The river Ourthe is crossed by a bridge of 3 arches at 4 Chenee Stat. — a place of manufac- ture at the junction of the Oui-the with the Yesdre (the s is pronounced in this word) : the railway ascends the agree- able valley of the' Yesdre, one of the most charming in Belgium, crossing the windings of the stream all the way to Limbiu-g. The sceneiy is enlivened by neat villas and gardens interspersed with orchards and green pastm-es, alter- nating with large manufactories, prin- cipally of cloth, giving to it an English character. 3 Chaudfoxtaine Stat. — Inns : H. des Bains, a large bathing establish- ment. H. de Liege was not open (1849) as an hotel. The hot spring, which supplies the baths, rises in an island in the midst of the Yesdre, The water is pumped iip by a large wheel turned l>y the sti-eam. This little village is a favourite Sun- day resort of the Liegeois : its situation is charming ; the sceneiy around bears some resemblance to that of Matlock, and the wooded heights which enclose it abound in shady walks leading to points of extensive ^'iew when the summit is reached. The Yesdre was a good fishing stream, but it is said that tlae grayling have been desti'oyed in this part by the erection of some zinc- works about a mile higher up. 4 Trooz Stat. 4 Nessonvaux Stat. 5 Fepinstcrre Stat. rt. is a modem Gothic castle of the Vicomte de Yiollay, a manufacturer of Ver^-iers, said to occupy the site of Eang Pepin's himting lodge. rt. Here the road to Spa (8 m.) turns off. Coaches and omnibuses rmi thither in 1^ hr. Fares, 1^ fr. in the coupe, 1 £r. in the omnibus : 6 or 7 frs., and even 12, at the hotels at Spa, are charged for a 2-hor5e carriage for 5 or 6 persons. Post-horses may be had at Pepinstre. Excicrsion to Spa, 2^ posts. *^^* Travellers pressed for time, and wishing to mak/j the best use of it, wiU hardly be rewarded in turning out of their road to \dsit Spa : as a watering- place it is much fallen oft, and its sceneiy is inferior to that of the Rhine . At the village of Pepinstre a road on the rt. turns off to Spa, along the valley of the Hoegne, equally pleasing with that of the Yesdre, clothed with meadows of the brighest verdure, and enlivened by many country-houses, be- longing principally to the manufac- tiu-ers of Yer^■iers. Long lines of cloth hung out in the sun proclaim the staple manufacture of the district. A little beyond the village of Theux, famous for its quan'ies of black marble, arc seen ^ "The Tovers of Fiancfiimont, w Which, like an eagle's nest in air, y Hang o'er the stream and hamlet fair. j Deep in their vaults, the peasants say, A mighty treasure buried lay, Amass'd through rapine and through wrong Hy the last lord of Franchimont. Tlie iron chest is bolted hard, A huntsman sits, its constant guard ; Around his neck his horn is hung, His hanger in his belt is slung ; Before his feet his bloodhounds lie : An 'twere not for his gloomy eye, Whose withering tjlance no art can brook. As true a huntsman doth he look 5 As bugle ere in brake did sound, j Or ever halloo'd to a hound. ; " To chase the fiend, ai.d w in the piiz In that same dungeon, ever tries An ai,'ed necromantic priest ; It is an hundred years at least Since 'twixt them first the strife bt-gun, And neither yet has lost or won. And oft the conjuror's words will make The stubborn demon groan and quake. And oft the bands of iron break. Or bursts one lock that still amain Fast as 'tis open'd shuts again. Thus magic strife within the tomb May last until the day of doom, Unless the adept shall learn to tell The very word that clenuh'd the spell. When Franchimont lock'd th" treasure cell. An hundred ye;irs are pass'd and gone. And scaice three letters has he won." . Walter Scott. i During the siege of Liege by Charles the Bold and Louis XL, 600 inhabit- ants of Franchimont banded themselves together with the design of seizing the persons of these two monarchs as they lay encamped before the walls. They failed in their bold attempt, as has been already related, and paid for their heroism with their lives. An inscrip- tion on the face of the rock, by the road ■ side, still keeps alive the recollection of the deed. (See p. 88.) Belgium. ROUTE 26. SPA. THE POUHON. 91 At the end of an avenue of lime-trees, a mile Ions:, lies 2| ^vx.—Lois : H. de Flandi-es ; has a good table-d'hote, and is a fair house in other respects. — H. de York ; tahle- d'hOte 3 fi's. — H. de Bellevue at one end of the town, in an aiiy situation ; civil and moderate in charges. — H. d' Orange, excellent. — H. Flandres. — H. des Pays-Bas, cheap ; table-d'hote 2 fr. a head, very good. Charges, 2 to 5 fr. a day for a room ; table-d'hote, 3 fr. ; breakfast, 25 sous ; dinner in piivate, 3 fr. ; a bottle of Bordeaux y\'me, 3 fr. Scn-ants are fed at 3 fr. a day. ^Mien the party exceeds 2 or 3, or where per- sons take up theii- residence for some time, an abatement is made in the charges. A person about to make some stay may bargain beforehand to be boarded and lodged for 5 fr. a day, and at the Belle^-ue for 3^ and 4 frs. a day dui'ing the winter. A good fiuTiished house with sta- bling may be had for about 60/. a year. The small mutton of the Aixlennes enjoys so high a reputation, even in other countries, that instances have oc- cuiTed of the larger portion of a sheep being conveyed in the Belgian minister's despatch bag to some of the aristocratic dinner-tables of London. Spa is almost made up of inns and lodging-houses, many of which are shut up in winter. The number of perma- nent inhab. is about 4000. It is veiy prettily situated in a sort of semi-basin, in the midst of mountains forming pait of the Ardennes Chain ; the heights overhanging it are covered M-ith shrubberies, and intersected by healthful and aiiy walks, with pleasing prospects at intervals. A large part of the town is built close imder the rocks, which, so far fi-om holding out any en- couragement to this near approxima- tion, have on several occasions given the inhabitants a warning to keep at a respectful distance, by overvvhelming their dwellings with vast masses of stone detached from above. Several houses near the Promenade de Sept Heures remain either wholly or partly buried amidst heaps of debris occasioned by a slide of part of the mountain. The hint has not altogether been attended to ; the roofs shattered by the falling of rocks have been repaired, and the houses again tenanted, though exposed con- stantly to a reciuTence of the danger. A new Bath House is built near the Promenade de Sept Hem-es. The principal spring, called the Pouhon (pouher, in Walloon, is the same as puiser, to draw), is situated in the centre of the town, under a colonnade built by the King of the Netherlands in honour of Peter the Great. The building contains a pump-room, in which a band plays from 7 to 9 a.m. and the newspapers of different coun- tries are to be seen. From this spring comes the Spa water, which is sent to the ends of the earth for the benefit of invalids. It is an admirable tonic, good for nervous and bilious disorders. It I owes its medical properties to the iron with which it is impregnated in greater I quantity than any other spring kno-\\-n, ! mingled with a considerable proportion j of salts ; while the superabundance of j carbonic acid in it renders it agxeeable to ; drink, capable of being transported to great distances, and of being preserved in bottles for a long period ^vithout injmy. Not many yards from this spring is the Redoute, a handsome building, which includes, imderoneroof, a cafe, a theatre, ball-room, and gambling-rooms, where rouge et noir, roulette, and similar games are earned on nearly from morn- ing to night. On Saturday a ball is given here during the season. In former times the gaming-houses belonged to the Bishop of Liege, who was a partner in the concern, and de- rived a considerable revenue fi'om his share in the ill-gotten gains of the manager of the establishment, and no gambling tables could be set up with- out his permission-. The handsome edifice called Yauxliall, built as a second Bedoute, and much frequented in former times, though now aban- doned, has been used as a church, where the English service is performed on Sundays ; but an Eiiglish chcqjel is about to be erected behind the Pouhon. A bookseller near the Pouhon has a reading-room, where "The Times" and one or two other English papers 92 ROUTE 25. — SPA. MODE OF LIVING. Sect. I. are taken in. A list is published from time to time of all the aiTivals in Spa ; a largo proportion of the names are English. Spa has, however, of late much fallen off in the mxmher as well as rank of its visitoi"S. It is, in fact, out of fashion. Since 1834 the Eng- lish have deserted it for the Bnmnen of Xassau, which far surjiass Spa in their sitaiation, and haA-e another ad- vantage in their near proximitv' to the beauties of the Rhine, in a district which offers excursions almost without end. During the time when Spa was the first watering-place in Eru'ope, monarchs were as plentiful as weavers from Verv'iers now ai'e at the springs ; and more than once a congress of croA\Tied heads has met here for sani- tary, not for political pui-poses. Charles II. visited the spot while in exile ; and Peter the Great repaired hither repeat- edly. The Baths are in a building sepa- rated from the spring ; they belong to the toMTi. A bath costs 2 francs. Two English physicians are estab- lished at Spa, with the licence of the Belgian govcmmcnt, — Dr. Cutler and Dr. Dennis. The other mineral springs besides the Pouhon are 5 in number, and are at a distance of between 2 and 3 m. from the toAvn. The principal are — 1 . The Geronstere ; it is veiy beautifrilly situated. 2. The Sauveniere, on the road to Malmedi, iu a little plantation of trees, about 1^ m. fi'om Spa. Near it, in the shrubbery, is a monument set up (1787) by the D.de Charti-es (L. Philippe) and his 3 sisters in remembrance of their mother ha^dng received her ciu'e fr'omthe use of these waters. The inauguration of it is described by Mad. de Genlis in her memoirs. It was destroyed by re- publican soldiers, 1792, and has been recentl}^ restored. 3. The Groesbeck, not far fi'om the Sauvcniere. 4. The Tonnekts, so called because the water was first collected in little tubs. There are baths attached to this spring. 5. The Barrasart. The daily routine at Spa is nearly as follows : — JPeople begin the day with a preparatory glass at the Pouhon, to which they repair en deshabille, in their dressing-gro-^-ns, about 6 or 7 o'clock; after v.-hich they proceed, generally on horseback or in caniages, to the springs out of the town. Attached to almost all of them is a building corresponding to a pmnp-room, and they are sur- rounded with pleasiU'e grounds and walks, where a band of music is sta- tioned, while the chinkcrs make their promenade to and fro tUl about 9 o'clock. At that hour the company return home, dress, and breakfast. As early as 11 in the morning the fatal Redoute opens, but there are the more healthy pleasiu'cs of exploring the walks and rides of the neighbourhood for such as do not patronise the gaming- table. It is the custom here for evcay- body to ride on horseback. There are a great many ponies for hire ; when a visitor finds out a tolerable one, he had l)etter engage it for the whole period of his stay. The hire of a pony for the whole day is 5 or 6 fi'., and 2 or 3 fr'. arc paid to go and return from the springs in the morning, A carriage for making the torn- of the spriags costs 8 fr. ; chars- a-banc and open omnibuses take per- sons round the springs at ^ fr. a-hcad. The dinner hom- at the table-d'hote is 2 or 3 o'clock. There are 2 packs of English hounds kept at Spa. There is much game in the neighbourhood, and good trout and grayling fishing. There are Baces in August. Spa is famous for a peculiar manu- factory of Wooden Toys, somewhat like the Tunbridge ware. The wood of which they are formed is stained by being steeped in the mineral waters, and receives a dark grey or broM-n tint from the iron. A considerable number of hands, and some artists of no mean skill, are employed in decorating them with paintings of flowers, &:c. There are two walks in the town, called the Promenades de Quatrc Hcv.res and de Sept Hextres, from the time of the day when they are frecpiented. Less monotonous are the winding paths up the heights overlooking the town. The Cascade de Coo, about 9 m. S. of Spa, 3 m. from Stavelot, is one of the customary excursions of the \'isitors at Belgium. ROUTE 25. — REMOUCHAMPS. VERVIERS. 93 Spa. The road thitlier passes the ! Gheronstere and the A^illag-cs E,u and ' Eoanne. The river Amble ve forms the cascade, descending 30 or 40 ft. \ The limestone mountains Tvhich com- pose the chain of Ardennes ahoimd in natural caverns. One of these lies about 9 m. W. of Spa, at a place called JRemoKchamps. It contains some fine stalactites ; but the %-iews and descrip- tions published of it are on the whole \ exaggerated. The way to it is over a very stony cross-road, difficult to find "sx-ithout the aid of a guide. It passes the village of La Eeid, up several steep , hills, and across a wild heath, and , thence descends into a rugged raviae, '' in which lie the cave and village of Eemouchamps. At the little T/m the \4sitor is provided with a blouse to , keep his di'ess clean, ^vith candles, and a guide. The entrance is closed by a door, the keys of which are kept in the \4Ilage, and it is sho-«Ti for the benefit of the eommime. The path is wet and I slipper}'. The gi-otto is ti'aversed by a ; stream which is supposed to be the same as that which bmies itself in the groimd I near Adscaux, and which must pursue | a subten-anean coui'se of some miles ; before it arrives at Remouchamps. l This cave is situated in the rock called ; by geologists the mountain limestone. ' It alternates with clay slate. j Xearly opposite the cave stands Mont- jardin, an old castle on the top of an ; cscaii^ed rock, still inhabited, and sui'- \ rounded by gardens. ! 3 m. W. of Eemouchamps is the little village of Ambleve ; and over- hanging it the scanty ruins of another ; old castle, called by country people ks Qimtrc FUs Aijmon (after these preux ; chevaliers of the nursery storj^-book) : though reduced to a few broken walls, the recollection of the old romance , gives an interest to it. It is likewise interesting as the residence of "William de la Marck, the Boar of Ardennes, so called from the ferocity of his dispo- sition, which has, however, been some- i what exaggerated by Su- Walter Scott, '\ in the novel of Quentin Durward. He indeed slew the archbishop, but not in \ cold blood and at his O'wni table, but in ; open fight, Axath anus in his hands, before the gates of Liege, in 1482- j Some subterranean apartments, cut in j the rock beneath the castle, are ciuious. ! A different road may be taken in re- : tm-ning to Spa, by Adseux, near which I a river precipitates itseK into a natxu-al i arch or cavern, and thence to Haute | Beaimiont(or Hodebomont). According j to the notions of the peasantry, this and \ other caves of the coimtry ai-e haimted i by spii-its ; they call them Trous des 1 Sotais. The traveller may proceed at once J from Spa to the Rhine by way of Malmedi (Rte. 43) and Treves, and ■ thence descend the Moselle to Coldenz ' by steam; or he may post from Mal- medi to Priim, and there tmTiing aside explore Eifcl and its extinct volcanoes | (Rte. 45), and descend upon the most I beautiful part of the Moselle, near the baths of Bei-trich. By the fii'st route it would take about 6 days to reach Cob- lenz, and by the second about 4 days. In travelling post it is easy to reach Mai- j medi fi-om Liege in one day, and ' Treves in a second day. The borders of j the Moselle abound in objects of in- j terest, combining picturesque sceneiy, j wonderful geological phenomena, and 1 remarkable Roman remains. In going fi-om Spa to Yerviers we are compelled to retrace our steps as far as | Pepinstre. 1 From Liege to Aix, continued. I The vaUey presents a succession of j large cloth factories, alternating with | the neat and handsome country houses ] and gardens of their proprietors. The ' railwav passes thi'ough 3 Ensival Stat. : 2 Verviers Stat. The baggage of i travellers entering Belgium from Prus- j sia is examined here, a tedious process, j detaining the train an hoiu" or more, and the can-iages are changed. The Luis near the station are so bad that it is preferable to repair to those in the tOAvn, although 1 m. off. There is a { "Restauration" at the station. j Yerviers {Luis : H. de Flandi-es ; H. des Pays-Bas ; H. de France), on the Yesdre : its population already ex- ceeds 27,000 ; an instance of recent and rapid growth, chiefly owing to the \ 94 ROUTE 26. — BRUSSELS TO LIEGE. Sect. I. floiuisliing state of its cloth manufac- ] torics, which are said to produce se- cond-rate fabrics cheaper and better than those of England and France, j They employ in and around Yervicrs i 40,000 hands ; the cloth is exported to Italy and Ameriea, and formerly was consumed in large quantities by Hol- land. The Belgian army is clothed from the looms of Yerviers. The "water of the Vesdre is said to possess properties which fit it admii-ably for dyeing. 8 Dolhain Stat. Here passengers are sometimes made to alight in order that it may be seen that the carriages contain no small luggage. Dolhain, once a subui-b of Limbm-g, is now the tovm. On an eminence to the rt. above it a church tower and some ciiunbling walls are seen : this is LiiJBURG, formerly capital of the duchy of Limburg, now united to the province of Liege. The town, once flouiishing and strongly fortified, is reduced nearly to ruin. Its outworks were blo^vn up by the French in the time of Louis XI Y. (1675), and various calamities of war and fii'C have made it little better than a heap of ruins. Even so late as 1833-4, a fii-e consumed 40 houses and a church. The Ch. of St. George, gutted by fire not many years ago, plain within, contains an elegant Gothic ta- bernacle (date 1520), and a monument to a princess of Baden (1672). The view into the valley is pleasing, but there is nothing here worth stopping for. There are mines of zinc and coal in the neighbourhood, and much cheese is made in the district. The railway on leaving Dolhain quits the vaUey of the Yesdi-e. The first Prussian station is 7 Herbesthal Stat., where passports are called for and taken away, and, if not vised and returned at once, they must be reclaimed at the Bureau des Passeporis, at the Aix-la-Chapelle sta- tion ; the baggage is examined at Aix or Cologne. The raih'oad is can-ied on a bridge of 17 arches, 120 ft. high in the centre, over the Yalley of the Geule ; passes through 2 tunnels, the second of which is 2220 ft. long, pierced through a sand-hill, and finally reaches Aix-la-Chapelle dowTi an inclined plane, up which carriages are drawn by a stationary engine in coming from Aix. 15 Aix-la-Chapelle Terminus. — Close to (rt.) Borcette.— (Rte. 36.) PtOUTE 26. MECHLIN OR BRUSSELS TO LIEGE, BY LOUVAIN. — RAILWAY. Brussels to Liege 114 kilom. = 71^ m. The journey to Liege requires 4 h. In order to reach Louvain from Brussels by railway it is necessaiy to go roimd by Mechlin. Brussels to Mechlin 20 kilom. = 12^ m. See Etc. 23. Mechlin to Liege 94 kilom. = 58| m. Stations fi'om Mechlin to Louvain. 1 1 Haecht Stat. 2 Wespelaer Stat. Xear this is a park and pleasure ground, laid out by a bre weir's widow of Louvain, in the French style, which is the delight of the cockneys of Bmssels. The railway crosses the Dyle, and runs not far from the Antwerp canal, which is lined with a treble row of trees, before reach- ing 11 The Louvain stat., p. 95. Thei-e are 2 post -roads from Bi-ussels to Louvain, both the same length, viz. S\ posts, = 15|m. : a. By Cortenberg, passing the village of St. Josse te noode (St. Joseph in need), a saint invoked by lathes who wish to have a family ; near which is the old castle of the Dulces of Ursel, once a residence of the Cardinal Gran\aLla, now a farm-house ; and a little inn or guinguette caUed het Schapraatje, from which there is a fine view of Brussels. About 6 m. from Brussels the spire of the village church of Saventhem is seen on the 1. of the road, from which it is a mile distant. An admirable painting by Vandjch, to which the foUo-udng storj- is attached, was restored to the church from the Louvre in 1817. — Yandyck, ha^'ing made great progress under his master, Rubens, was ad\ised by him to go to Italy, and partly furnished by him -with means to complete his studies there. He set out with the best intentions of Belgium. ROUTE 26. — LOUVAIN. HOTEL DE VILLE. 95 devoting himself entirely to his ail, on a whitQ horse given him by Eubens ; but had proceeded only thus far on his journey when he unlucikly fell in love with a yoimg girl of Saventhem, and there foolishly lost his time and money in pursuit of his passion. To show his devotion to her, and to compl)' with her request, he painted 2 pictures for the parish church — one, a Holy Family, in which he introduced portraits of his mistress and her parents ; the other, in which he has represented himself as St. !Maitin, riding on the white horse given him by Rubens. Tidings of the truant at length reached the ears of his master, who sought him out, represented to him the folly of saciificing his fntm-e pros- pects of fame and success to an obscui'e amoirr, and with some diffi.Lulty per- suaded him to tear himself away. The villagers have twice risen up to prevent the removal of these cherished works of art ; first by a Dutch pictm-e-dealcr to whom they had been clandestinely sold by the priest, and again by the French : they are both stiU preserved to the church, 1| Cortenbcrg. 1^ Louvain. Ete. h. — Theothcrroadpassesthrough , 1 5 Tervucren [Tans : Le Renard and L'Empereur). - Post-horses are no longer kept here, the raili"oad having rendered them imnecessary. Here there is a summer Palace of the late King of Hol- land. It was the gift of the nation to him when Prince of Orange, in gratitude for the bravery which he had displayed in the battle of "N^'aterloo. Its extent is not great, and there are no paintings of note in it, but it is very elegantly fitted up, with gardens in the ItaKan st^de aroimd it. The Chiu-ch contains some tombs of the Dukes of Brabant. Outside the walls of Louvain took place the memorable engagement of August, 1831, between the Dutch and the Belgians, in -svhich the latter, com- manded by Leopold in person, ran away and abandoned their king, who naiTowly escaped falling into the hands of the Prince of Orange. Louvain Stat, is outside the to^vn — ' omnibuses and -s-igilantes. (§ 22 A.) \ The H. de ViUe is only \ h. walk fi-om : it through the Rue de Diest. l^LouvAix. (Flem. Lovea ; Germ. LoWEx). — Tans : H. do Suede, Place du Pcuple, near to the stat. ; good and mo- i derate : dinner in private, 3 fr., and other ! charges in proportion. Cour de Mons. \ Louvain, on theDyle,A;\-ith 24,000 Inhab., ' is a city of veiy ancient origin. Some ! have attributed its foimdation to Julius Ca?sar ; and the old Castle, of which a small fragment remains outside the i Mechlin gate, still goes by the name of j Chateau de Cesar, though it did not ex- \ ist till 890, when the Empr. Arnold caiised it to be biult as a baiTier against the invasion of the Xonnans. A high earthen rampart encloses the town on one side, and is cut through by the i roads to Brussels and Mechlin. It has . I a deep dry fosse on the outside, and is 1 fi-om 80 to 100 ft. high. The laiined ! bastions and casemates arc probably the ! v,-orks of the Spaniards. The gToimd- ] plan of Louvain is nearly circular. ] It is recorded tliat Edward III. of ] England lived for one year in the castle, I and that the Empr. Charles Y. vras -'. broxight up ia it. The citizens used to assert that then- town had never been • taken, though often besieged. General ] Kleber, however, at the head of the re- ^ volutionary forces of France, put an j end to the boast, by making himself 1 master of the place in 1792. I The Hotel de Ville is one of the rich- i est and most beautiful Gothic buildings j in the world. Every pait of the ex- I terior is elaborately decorated by the \ chisel. It was begun 1448, and fijiished i 1469, " probably by M. de Layens, master mason of Louvain," and has re- •' cently been repaii-cd at the joint ex- ^ pense of the tovm and government. ^ The delicate and rich masomy of the exterior, Avhich had sirffered from time ' and the weather, has been renovated ! cntii'cly. The decayed stones were re- j moved one by one and replaced by I others, carcfidly copied and restored by < the sculptor Goyers in a style consistent ■ with the original design, and at least -■ equal to the ancient workmanship. The subjects of the sculptured groups are, : for the most part, taken from the Old 96 ROUTE 26. — LOUVAIX. CATHEDRAL. UNIVERSITY. Sect. I. Testament. Tlie common coimcil has | decided that statues (in number about ' 250) shall be placed in the niches of the 3 facades and the towers. The niches on the ground floor will be reserved for celebrated persons bom at Louvam, or who have been domiciled there, and likewise for persons who have rendered eminent services to the to■\^-n. On the 1st story wi\l be placed figures emble- matical of the ancient institutions of the commune ; the Counts of Louvain, the Dukes of Brabant, and the sovereigns of the kingdom are to fill the niches of the upper story. All these statues ^yill be the size of life, and are to be exe- cuted in a style in harmony with that of the building. The pictures within the Town Hall are generally of little consequence. A few are curious from their antiquity. The Cathedral of St. Peter, near to the Town Hall, is also well worth see- ing. It was founded in 1040 ; but hav- ing been twice destroyed by fire, the existing building is not older than 1358. " What is stated to be an original draAv- ing of the W. fi-ont is preserved in the Town Hall, together with a veiy ela- borate model of the same in stone as it •was executed, with a singularly lofty tower and spire in the centre, and an- other on either side of it. The centre spire, which was to have been above 500 ft. high (an extraordinary eleva- tion, exceeding, by 100 ft., that of Salisbuiy Cathedral), was, it is said, destroyed in 1606 by a storm, and in its fall ruined the side towers." — G. God- v:in. But there are doubts whether the tower, as here planned, was ever exe- cuted. A highly ornamented Evod- loft, between the choir and nave, is in the richest flamboyant Gothic of the latter part of the 15th cent. Under the arch which separates the choii' fi'om its side aisle, on the N. side of the grand altar, is an elaborate Tabernacle of sculptured stone to contain the host. It is a hexagon in plan, tapering up- wards to a point, and is about 30 ft. high. Here are, among several name- less pictures of the old Flemish* school, 2 altar-pieces by Hemliag — the MaitjT- dom of St. Erasmus, a horrible subject, but treated with great propriety by the painter, and the Last Supper, a work of high merit. A Holy Family, by Quen- tin MatsySj in a side chapel at the back of the high altar, is considered the great ornament of the chiu'ch. It was earned to Paris dm'ing the Revolution. On the shutters are painted the Death of St. Anne, a beautiful composition, and the Expulsion of Joachim fi-om the Temple. Another picture (artist uii- Imown) represents a cook with his apron on, chosen bishop in consequence of I the miraculous descent of a dove upon j his head. In the foregroimd he ap- I pears to refuse the miti*e, but behind preparations are making for his installa- tion. Sir Joshua Pteynolds says of it — " It is a composition of near a himdiX'd figm-es, many in good attitudes, natiu'al and well invented. It is much more interesting to look at the works of these old masters than slight commonplace pictiu'cs of many modem painters." The Pulpit of wood is an admirable speci- men of can-ing, representing St. Peter on a rock and the Conversion of St. Paul, sm-moimted by palm-trees. The stiicken horse and fallen rider are ex- quisitely executed. The forai and ex- pression of both are perfect. The carved woodwork or the main portals in the inside is remarkable as a work of art. " The font, situated at the AV. end of the nave, has an elaborate Gothic crane of ii'on attached to the wall near it, for the pm-pose of supporting the cover, now removed. One of the chapels in the N. aisle of the nave has a low screen of coloui'ed marbles, exquisitely sculp- tured in the style of Louis XIY." — G. G. The chapels containing the pictm-es by Hemling and Matsys are locked ; to sec them, apply to the custode. The University, suj^pressed by the French, was re-established by the King of Holland in 1817. Since 1836 it has once more become the nm-sing mother of Romish priests for Belgiiun. There are about 600 students. In the 16th cent, it was considered the fii'st imi- versity in Europe, and, being especially distinguished as a school of Roman Catholic theology, it was then frequented by 6000 students. There were foiTacrly 43 colleges, variously endowed by pious founders, dependent upon the Univer- Belgium. ?,\W : of these only about 20 row re- main, and their funds have been much reduced. The Colleges du Pape, des Philosophes, du St. Esprit, du Faucon, &:e., are sumptuous edifices. The G>.(iklliall^ or Halle, of the wear- ers, erected in 1317, was appropriated to the service of the Un ivei'siti/, after its first owners were banished for thou- re- fi'actory conduct. It still exhibits traces of the opulence of its foimders, being decorated T^dth carvings in wood, but is scarcely worth entering if the traveller be pressed for time. Far moi'e inter- esting is The Cabinet of Faint inr/s, belonging to M. Yandenschiieck, Eue de Paris, No. 86, one of the most select now in the Netherlands as regards native masters. It contains good specimens of Cuyp, Tandyck, v. der Heyden, the Ostades, Rembrandt, Eubens, Ruys- dael, Teniers, the Yan de Veldes, Wou- vermans, and of other leaders of the Dutch and Flemish schools ; besides some good works by modem artists. The carved wooden stalls in St. Ger- tn'xk's Church, which was originally the chapel of the Did^cs of Brabant, are re- puted the finest in Belgium ; they are of oak, in flamboyant style, with de- tached groups and statues, and beauti- ful bas-reliefs. They have been re- stored by Goyers. The modei-n paint- ings by the Belgian artists Wappers, Matthieu, and de Keyser, in St. Mi- chael's, also deserve mention. The Tov:er of Jansenins, in which that celebrated theological writer com- posed the works which gave rise to those doctrines of grace and ffee-wLll, named after their author Jansenism, exists no longer. Louvain may easily be seen in a day ; and there is no inducement to remain longer, as the city has a deserted aspect, tlie more striking when contrasted with its ancient prosperity and swaiTuing population. Its walls, now in part turned into boulevards, measured 7 m. in circumference ; and in the 14th cent., when it was the capital of Brabant and residence of its princes, its inhab. amoimted to 100,000. Neariy half of them lived by the woollen manufac- tures estHblished here. The weavers ROUTE 26. — LOUYAIX. TIRLEMONT, 97 here, however, as elsewhere, were a turbulent race ; and their rulers, being tyrannical and impolitic, banished, in 1382, a large number of them fi-om the town, in consequence of a tumult in which they had taken part, and dm-ing which they had thrown 17 of the ma- gistrates out of the windows of the Town-house. Many of the exiles took refuge in England, bringing with them their industry and independence ; and, very' much to the advantage of our- country, established in it those woollen manufactm-es which have left all others in the world far behind. Louvain is famed at present for brewing the best Beer in all Belgiiim. 200,000 casks are made here annually : a great deal is exported. It may be tasted at the liaison des Brasseurs, the Brewers' Guild, a fine mansion, in the Elizabethan style, opposite the H. de Yille. The Railroad from Louvain leaves on the rt. the Abbey of Pare, still inhabited by monks, and furnished with 3 fish-ponds. 11 Yertrvk Stat. 7 Tiiieniont Stat. (Flcm. Thienen.) —Inn : Le Plat d'Etain ; tolerable. A to-\^Ti of 8500 Inhab. : formerly much more considerable. The space included within its waUs S. of the railway in- cludes, at present, very few houses : the gates are old. In the centi'e of it is a very extensive square. The Ch. of St. Germain, on a height visible from the railway, is one of the oldest in Bel- gium, built in the 9th cent. It con- tains an altar-piece by Wajyjyers. The massive tower is of the r2th cent. The Jesuit J. Bollandus, author of the Acta Sanctorum, was boni here. Outside the gate leading to Maestricht are 3 large barrows, supposed to be the graves of some barbarian people in veiy re- mote times. They are visible fi'om the railway, — to the 1. The raih-oad, after leaving the station, overlooks the town from an embankment. rt. The Lion on the Field of Water- loo, and the Pnissian Monument, are visible at a great distance. 6 Esemael Stat. On approaching Landen the rail- 98 ROUTE 27. — BRUSSELS TO AIX, BY MAESTRICHT. Sect. I. way traverses tlie plain of Neerv-iaden, celebrated for 2 great battles : in 1693, when the English under William III. were beaten by Marshal Luxemburg and the French ; and in 1793, when the Austrians defeated the Revolutionaiy army, and drove it out of Belgium. \l. Leau, between Tirlemont and St. Trond, 5 m. to the N. of the railroad, was in the middle ages a fortified to-ftTi, and part of the wall still remains. The Church of St. Leonard coiitains several Gothic altars, a luminaire (can- dlestick) of brass, 15 ft. high, orna- mented with figm-es of Saints, and a Tabernacle, sculptured in the style of the Renaissance (Elizabethan), erected at the cost of the Seigneur Martin van "Wilre, 1558. He is buiicd in the tomb opposite it.] 7 Landen Stat. A branch railway runs hence to St. Trond and Ilasselt, 27 kilom. = 16|m. 3 Gingelom Stat. 5 Rosoux Stat. 6 Waremmc Stat. (8 m. from Ton- gres, Rte. 27.) "Waremme was capital of the district called Ilesbaie, lying on the 1. of the Mouse. The old Roman road from Bavay to Tongres is crossed ; it is in good preservation, and is called by the - people of the country the road of Brunehaut (Bmnehilde). 11 Fcxhe Stat. 8 Ans Stat, is 450 ft. above the level of the Meuse, and the trains de- scend by 2 inclined planes, about 2^ m. long, in 15 min., being draA^-n up by ropes attached to stationar)^ engines, in 12 min. The view, looking dov/n upon Liege, is most striking. 6 Liege Teiininus is on the 1. banlc of the Meuse, close to the Quai d' A\i-oy. The railway crosses the Meuse by the bridge of Val St. Benoit, of 7 arches. (Rte. 24.) ROUTE 27. BRUSSELS TO AIX-LA-CIIAPELLE, BY LOU VAIN AND MAESTRICHT. As far as Landen the road is de- scribed in Rte. 26. Landen to St. Trond railway, 10 kilom. = 6jm. 5 Vclm Stat. 5 St. Trond Stat. {Inns: L' Em-ope ; Lo Sauvage, tolerable), a town of 9100 Lihab., receiving its name from St. Trudon, who founded a monastery here, and gained gi'cat fame by the working of miracles. At Brustem, near this, a great battle was fought, in 1467, between Charles the Bold and his rebellious subjects of Liege. 3000 of them, who had posted them- selves in the town, were compelled to sm-render it to Charles, to destroy the gates and ramparts, and to deliver up to him 10 of their number, whom he cruelly caused to be beheaded. This railway is earned on to Hassclt, 17 kilom. = ib^ m. 7 Cortenbosch Stat. 5 Aiken Stat. 5 Ilasselt Stat., 64 ni. from Brussels. St. Trond to Aix-la-Chapello, 5 posts and 4;^ Genn. m. = about 44 Eng. m. 2^ Tongres {Inn : Paon), a very an- cient city of 6000 Inliab. The priu- cip'il Church was the first dedicated to the Virgin on this side of the Alps. The existing Gothic edifice dates from 1240, but the convent behind was L'uilt in the 10th or 11th cent., and is the oldest of the kind in the country. The Waremme Station on the railway is 8 m. from this. (Rte. 26.) Near the towm, on the estate of Betho, there exists a mineral spring, mentioned by Pliuy in these words : — " Tungi'i, civitas Gallise, fontem habet insignem, pkmbus bullis stillantcm, ferruginei saporis quod ipsimi non nisi in fine potiis intelligitm*. Purgat hie corpora, tertianas febres discutit, calculorumquc vitia. Eadem aqua, ignc admoto, turbida fit, ac postea rubescit." It still retains its ancient properties, answering exactly to the description, and is knoAvn as the fontaine de Pliae or de St. Gillcs. The Tungri, according to Tacitus, were the first German tribe who, crossing the Rhine, expelled the Gauls, and settled themselves in their countiy. Beyond Tongres the road is bad. 2i' Maestricht. — Tans : Lcvrier (Greyhound) ; most comfortable. H. du Casque (Helmet) ; good, Hof von Holland. Maestricht, the capital of the Dutch Belgium. ROUTE 27. — MAESTRICHT. QUARRIES. 99 portion of the pro'.'ince of Limbm-g, has 22,000 inhab. It lies on the Maas, and is united by a bridge of 9 arches to the suburb called Wyck. It is one of the strongest fortresses in Europe ; its works are verj" extensive, and partly imdermined, with capabilities for lay- ing under water gi-eat part of the land around, by opening the sluices. To- gether with Yenloo and Roennonde, it still belongs to the King of Holland, ha-^-ing been ceded to him by the treaty of 1831 : it is numerously garrisoned by Dutch troops. It was called by the Komans Tr'ijectum superiis (the upper ford), or Trajectum ad Mosam. The great strength of this iovm has subjected its inhabitants to the miseiy of nimierous sieges. Among the most memorable was that of 1579, when the Spaniards, under the Duke of Parma, took it by assaidt, at the end of 4 months, after having been repulsed in 9 separate attacks by the gamson, v.hich included a few English and Scotch soldiers : they vrere all put to the sword, and nearly 8000 of the townspeople massacred to satisfy Spa- nish vengeance. It was taken bv Louis XIY. ; but William III. of England failed before it. Maestiicht was pre- served to Holland by its brave ganison Sept. 1830, and was the only place which resisted effectually the insurgent Belgians. There is an arsenal and a military magazine in the town. The Stiidkuis, in the centre of the great market-place, is handsome, in a modem style of architecture (date 1662). The Ch. of St. Servais is a fine Romanesque edifice, ornamented with 5 towers, and dating probably fi-om the 10th cent. It has a splendid portal, with statues of kings (10th or 11th cent.), a cloister of the 15th cent., and it contains a Descent fi-om the Cross bv Vandyk {}). The Ch. of Xotre Danie rises from Roman substructions. The square called Vrijhof, in which St. Servais stands, was the place where "William de la Marck, nicknamed " le Sanglier des Ardennes," was beheaded, 1485. Some pretty Public Gardens were laid out in 1838. The raost remarkable thuig about Macstricht are the Subterranean Quar- ries under the hill called the Pietersherg^ on which the Citadel or Fort St. Pierre stands. The entrance is not quite 3 m, from the Inns, outside St. Peter's gate : the hu'e of a carnage is 6 fi\ ; the fee of a sworn guide 4 fr. Some of the passages are wide enough to admit horses and carts. They cover a space of 4 leagues by 2 : the number of pas- sages amounts to 16,000, 20 to 50 ft. high and 12 broad, and a large part are now rarely explored. They are sup- posed to have been first worked by the Romans. The galleries, iimning gene- rally at right angles, and lined by many thousand massive pillars, 4') ft. square, left by the excavators to support the roof, cross and intersect each other so as to render it exceedingly difficult to fijid the way out ; and it is dangerous to enter this singular labjTinth without a guide. Many lives have been lost from the want of this precaution ; among others, 4 Recollet monks perished in 1640, in attempting to penetrate to a remote spot, where they were desirous of foi-ming a hermitage. They had provided themselves with a clue, which they fastened near the entrance, but the thread on which they depended broke. They died of himger, and their bodies, though they were diligently sought for, were not found till 7 days after. The only persons competent to conduct strangers through the maze are a few experienced labourers who have spent a large portion of their lives in these caverns, and who assist their memoiy by marks made on the pillars and sides. In time of war the peasantry of the sun'ounding coxintiy have frequently sought refuge in the caves, along with then- flocks and herds. The rock is a soft yellowish stone, not rmlike chalk, and of the same geological age. It is used for building, but is ill adapted for the pui-pose, being much aflected by the atmosphere ; it does not make good lime, but when reduced to sand is very serviceable as maniu-e for the fields. It abounds in marine fossil remains. Be- sides shells and crabs, large turtles are found in it, together with the bones of a gigantic lizard-like reptile, more than 20^ ft. long, called the fossil :Monitor. Some of these relics of animals wliich 100 ROUTE 28. — BRUSSELS TO NAMUR. Sect. I. do not now exist on tlie cartli may be seen at Maestricht. The caverns arc veiy cold, but are remarkably free fr-om all moisture, and hence their tempe- rature scarcely ever varies. In one of them are a number of grotesque figures drawn with charcoal on the surface of the rock, and meant to represent the Last Judgment. The walk through the caverns need not take up more than an hour. The view from the summit of the Pietersberg is fine. Steamers daily to Liege, in 4 hi'S., retm-ning in 2^ hrs. (K. 24) : — to Eottcrdam, stopping for the night at Yenloo. A Schnellpost daily, in 3^ hi's., to Aix- la-Chapelle. A stone bridge across the Meuse leads from Maestricht to the subiu'b of Wyck. The road then passes several inconsiderable places to 2A Wittem, the frontier of Pnissia, about a mile bej^ond Bocholz (§46,47). 2 AlX-LA-CllAPELLE (RtC. 36). ROUTE 28. BRUSSELS TO XAMUa BY CilARLEROI. — RAILWAY, 109 kilom. = 68| Eng. m. Time 4 h. In Rte. 32 this railway is described as far as 80 Brainc le Comtc Stat. Here the line to Namiu: branches off E. from that to Mens (R. 32), and travellers going to Kamui' change carnages. 6 Ecaussines Stat. Here are very fine blue limestone quanies. 9 Manage Stat. A branch railway connects this station v:ith Mom, in a dfrect line. (See Rte. 32.) The canal is crossed. There are coal-mines near this. On the 1. lies Senetfe, where the Prince of Orange (William III.), scarce 24, ventured to measiu'e his strength (1674) with the veteran Conde. It ended in a drawn battle, with 27,000 dead left on the field ! 7 Gouy-lcz-Pieton Stat. 3 Pont-Ji-Celles Stat. 2 Lutti-e Stat. 5 Gosselies Stat., a pictui-esque town (1.) on a height. The railway cuts through several beds of coal. 3 Roux Stat. Coalpits and tramways. The most interestuig portion of the route lies between 3 Marchiennes-au-Pont (Stat.) and Charleroi; the country being pictu- resque, and enlivened by manufactories, chimneys, iron-works, coal-mines, and villages. The Bnissels and Charleroi canal runs parallel Avith the railway, and enters the Sarabre, which it joins to the Schelde, 2 m. above Charleroi. The railway crosses the Sambre 16 times before reaching Namiu-. 4 Charleroi Stat. Inns : Pays- Bas; small, but good; — Grand Mo- narque ; — I'Univers. Charleroi is a fortress on the Sambre, originally founded by Charles II. of Spain, and named after him ; its works were razed 1795, and restored 1816, under the di- rection of the Duke of WeUiugton. It is also a manufactming town, and has 6150 inhab. About 6000 nail-makers ply their trade in and about the town, and there are said to be 70 high fur- naces, 50 iron foimdries, and 90 coal- pits in the -vicinity. There are exten- sive ii'on furnaces at Couliers, near this. The smTounding district abounds in coal; 8345 miners and 118 steam-en- gines are employed in the collieries. The Sambre and Meiise Railvxnj branches S. from Charleroi. (Rte. 28 a.) iFrom Charleroi to Xamur the raUAvay descends the beautiful val- 5 Tamines Stat, "j ley of the Sam- 2 Auvelais Stat. I bre, through a 6 Mousticr Stat, j very pictm'csque ^country. 5 Floreff'e Stat. The village, of 1500 inhab., stands on the rt. banlc of the Sambre. On a commanding height above rises the picturesque Abbey of Floreff'e, founded by Godfrey Count of Xamur, 1121. It is now a seminary for priests. The cloisters and hall of the Counts of Namur are worth notice. On the 1., in a woody gorge, lies the Abbey of jMalomie, and fmther on the 1. the new ch. of Beausse. 9 Namur Stat, outside the Porte de Fer, which leads to Louvain (Rte. 24). Belgium, route 29. — Xx^mur to Luxemburg axd Treves. 101 ROUTE 28 A. CHARLEROI TO MORIALME — SAMBRE AND MEUSE RAILWAY. This railway tiims off from the Brus- sels and Xamiu' Eailway between Char- leroi and Marchiennes-au-Pont. It passes through the richest mineral dis- tiiet in Belgiimi, and has a great traffic in cole, coke, iron, and zinc ore. "Wlien completed it will connect the valley of the Sambre at Charleroi with that of the flense a few miles above Givet, and also at Charleville and Mezieres. From Charleroi to Morialme (3-i j Idiom. = 21f Eng. m.), with a branch to Laneffe, was opened 1848. 2| La Sambre Stat. (Marchiennes.) 1\ Bomeree Stat. \^ Hameau Stat. 18| Berzee Stat. (Here a branch railwav tiu-ns off by 2 Thy-le-Chtiteau Stat, to 4i Laneffe Stat.) 21 1 Walcoiu-t Stat. 29| Fraire Stat., on the high road between Charleroi and Philippe\aLle. A diligence runs twice a day between this station and Philippe-soUe, in connection MT.th the trains. 34^ Morialme Sta. EOUTE 29. NAMUR TO LUXEMBURG AXD TREVES, 23;^; posts and 2 Prnssian m. = 121^ Eng. m. Diligence daily, in 20 hi's. An excellent road, completed by the Dutch only 2 years before the Revolu- tion of 1830. 1| Yivier I'Ag-neau. 1^ Emptinnes. 2^ La Marche. — Inn, Cloche d'Or; intolerable. A pretty town, capital of the Famenne, a fertile com clisti'ict, named after its ancient inhab. the Phoe- manni, mentioned by Cffisar ; 8 m. S. W. is Rochefort (p. 193), once a sti-ong foi-tress, where Lafayette was made prisoner bvthe Austrians, 1792. [ (rt.) The road from Marche to St. Hubert presents very fine forest sceneiy . —See Rte. 31.] The first stage out of La Marche, passing tlu'ough the forest of St. Hu- bert, is very pretty indeed. This is Shakspeare's "Forest of Arden;" and so well does the reality agree with his description of its Avoodland scenery, that the traveller might almost cxiioct to meet the " banished duke " holding his sylvan court rmder the greenwood tree, or to siurprise the pensive Jaques me- ditating by the side of the running brook. 2 1 Champion, a solitary post-house. A few miles beyond Champion the in- fant Omthe is crossed. 3 Bastogne has no regular inn. There is a curious old chiu-ch here. 2058 inhab. There is a road hence to St. Hubert (p. 105), through Orten- ■STlle, where is a comfortable auberge ; and another to Liege thi'ough Houffa- lize (Haut Falaise) on the edge of steep cliffs overhanging the Ourthe, siu-- moimted by a ruined castle desti'oyed by Marshal Boufflers. {Inn : H. des Ardennes.) 2"! Martelange. 2A Arlon (Inn : H. du Xord ; clean and comfortable sleeping quarters) — a rapidly increasing town, of oOOO inhab. ; supposed to be the Roman Orolanum. By the partition of the Duchy of Lux- emburg, in conformity with the Treaty of 1831, two-thirds of it have faRen to the share of King Leopold, and Ar- Ion is become the capital of the Belgian part of the pro^*ince. A Diligence from Arlon down the picturesque valley of the Semoi to Flo- renville. {Inn : H. du Commerce.) Diligence to Metz daily. {Handbook for France.) The Dutch frontier commences at Steinfurth. From Aiion to the fron- tier German is the language of the in- habitants. 3| Luxemburg. — Inn : H. de Co- logne the best, but not clean. The situation of Luxemburg is very singu- lar ; and the ext'IJiIEGEN j (xijiwegen) to cologne.* I *** For general information respect- ! ing the Rhine helow Cologne, read Ete. ! 11, pp. 80-85. I The steamer sets off on the ascent of I the Ehine early in the morning, and reaches Cologne in about 18 hrs. As there is nothing to see in the lower part of the Rhine, it is best to proceed as far as Amhem by rail. A steamer leaves Amhem evcr\^ day at 6 a.m., and reaches Cologne at 11 p.m., bnt arrives opposite Duisburg in time for the train which reaches Cologne at 6 P.M. The Train from Duisburg to Co- logne occupies 2 hrs. (The steamer which leaves Cologne at 7 a.m. reaches Amhem in time for the last ti-ain to Amsterdam.) About 8 m. above Xij- megcn, and about the same distance above Arnlicm, the 2 branches of the Rhine— the AYaal, and the Lower Rhine, or Lek — unite. Before entering the un- divided sti-eam, it is worth while to give some little attention to the hydrau- lic works erected on the apex of the delta. They consist of dams, dykes, and jetties, constructed of earth, and faced with wicker-work, which are thrown up, along the shore or into the Rhine, to regulate its course and the direction of its waters, the object in view being so to distribute its current that in all states of its flood, both when high and when low, § of the water which it brings down may be conveyed * POST-ROAD— NI3ME0 EN TO DUSSELPORF, BY THE RIGHT BANK OF THE RHINE. 8 Dutch • posts, and 13i Prussian m. := ~$\ English m. A diligence daily. This road is very bad ; very little of it is chaussee. Dutch Posts. 14 Arnliem (R. 5). Tlie Prussian territory is entered before reaching 1^ Elten, a villaee with an old abbey — a pretty view — a bad inn. — M. frt.) Post-road continued : Prussian miles. into the "Waal, and only \ into the Lek. It is the duty, therefore, of the water- engineers to watch every variation of the current and level of the Rhine, and to guard against changes, and presor^-e the equilibrium, by constantly throwing out new works. These constnictions are of the highest importance, since, in point of fact, the physical existence of Holland in a great degree depends on them : and had not the necessary pre- cautions been taken to strengthen them in 1774, the country woidd, in all probability, have been overwhelmed bv the inimdations which occun'ed in 1784. At a place called Aart a dam is drawn across an ancient arm of the Rhine, strengthened by the Dutch with thick plantations of willows. It is intended that this abandoned channel should ser^-e as a safety-valve in case of very greatincrease in the waters of the Rhine ; and by a convention with the Prussian government it is settled that, when the river attains a certain height at the gauge at Amhem, it shall be allowed an outlet through this dam. This is bj no means an impossible contingency ; and were it to happen, the dam woiild be washed away in 5 minutes after the water had begim to flow over it, and a new passage would be opened for the Rhine to the sea. The frontier of Holland and Prussia is marked by the situation of rt. Lobith, the station of the Dutch custom-house. The steamer, in descend- ing the river, brings-to here for an horn- or more, and is boarded by the officers. Opposite Lobith stood Schenkenschanze, once a sti-ong fortress, and considered the key of the Netherlands, taken by Frederick Henry Prince of Orange 1636, and by Tiu-enne 1672. It owed its importance to its position on the tongue of land formed by the forking of the Rhine, but the river has completely changed its bed in the com-se of centu- ries, and the separation of the Rhine and Waal now takes place considerably be- Rhenish Prussia, route 34. — xijmegen to cologne. 115 low the forti'ess, "w^liich. lias faUen to de- cay, and is now scarcely discernible. 1. The spires and towers of Cleves (Rte. 35) maybe seen near this, at a little distance from the river. It takes 4 lii-s. steam to reach rt. Emmerich.* Inn: H. des Pays- Bas, best. This is the fii'st Prussian town ; it is fortified, and has a garrison and 5000 Inhab., and considerable ma- nufactures. It has a Dutch character of cleanliness. At its upper end rise the stunted Crothic towers of St. Alde- OhmTs Ch. ; at the lower appears the Minster, the oldest ch. on the rt. bank of the Ehine. The steamer is here boarded by the custom-house officers, vrho, however, are contented with a very slight inspection of the baggage of a ti'aveller, and passports are vise by the police (§ 46, 47), which usually causes a stoppage of 1 or 2 hoiu'S. rt. Recs.f A small tOAvn with high waUs. 1 . Xanten , distinguished by its double- spired chiu'ch (see p. 118), lies at a short distance from the Ehine, which appears to have flowed close to it in fomier times. The ancient bed is dis- tinctly ti'aceable. rt. Wesel.i Inn: Dornbusch's, best. This is a fortress of the fii-st class, foi-ming the bulwark of Prussia on her N.W. frontier ; it lies at the junction of the Lippe with the Rhine, and has 13,200 inhab. including the garrison. The citadel is situated S. of the town. The liat/iham is a handsome l)uild- ing. The to^vn cames on a considerable trade ^vith Holland, and its commerce has increased since the Lippe was made navigable. Much wood and salt are ti'ansported out of Westphalia by that river. The Ehine is here divided into 2 branches by the island of Biiderich, also fortified by block-houses, and is crossed by a bridge of boats. A monument has been erected near Wesel to the Piaissian officers engaged in Schni's revolt at Stralsund, who i were mercilessly shot here by the French, j 18ij0. Eapin hero A\i-ote his History of ; England. He resided 17 years and died . here. ! * 1 Eramerich. f 2:^ Rees. Im, Krone. X 3i Wesel. 2 Dinslaken. ' 1. Immediately opposite Wcsel Hes Fort Btiichcr, formerly called Fort Xa- poleon, while it belonged to the French. A small to"mi was swept away to make room for it, and has since been rebuilt about 3 m. offi 1. Orsoy. rt. Euhrort (Hacks Inn), at the open- ing of the Euhi- into the Ehine, serves as the depot for the coals brought down the Euhr fi-om the coalfield on its banks. Xearly 3,000,000 tons are, it is said, extracted annually. The consiunption of coals is enoi-mously increased since the Belgian Eevolution, as Holland now obtains from this quarter part of the supply which she previously derived from Liege. There are very large boat- builders' yards hero. Xear the lower (E.) end of the town is a considerable Castle. rt. DciSBURG. Inns : Post ; Ehei- nischer Hof. ( Drusiburgiim of the Eo- mans.) A manufactming town of 7000 inhab., near the Euhr, which falls into the Ehine 3 m. below the to-nni. St. SaIvato/-'s (1415), 1 ^ m. distant fi'om the Ehine, is a fine ch. The University, founded here 1655, was suppressed 1802. The Jlinden and Cologne Eail'cay con- nects this tovm with Cologne ; trains take2krs, (Etc. 66.) TraveUers bound for Cologne or Berlin will gain some time by quitting the steamer here and taking to the railway. The Valleii of the Ruhr is distinguished not only for its active industiy, its coal- mmes, *S:c., but also for its very pictu- resque scenery. It deserves exploring ; the most interesting points being Ho- hen Siegbui-g, Blankenstein, Werden, Kettwig, and Miihlhcim. 1. Uerdingen, marked by the poplars round it. At Eichelskamp, near this, the French revolutionaiy army under Lefeb^^.•e, 25,000 strong, fii'st crossed the Ehine, 1795, and, by -snolating the neu- trality of the Prussian teiTitory turned the position of the Austi'ians. rt. Calcum Stat. 1^ m. from this is rt. Kaiserswerth, originally, as its name implies, an island, was long the residence of the German Emperors. Pepin d'llcristal built here a castle, nov.- in ruins ; from which the Emperor Heniy lY., M'hcnachild 12 years of 116 ROUTE 34. — DUSSELDORF. ARTISTS. Sect. II. age, was secretly carried off from his mother Agnes, by Hanno Axehbp. of Cologne. There still exist remains of a more recent Castle, built by the Emp. Fredeiickl. The Church (13th cent.) con- tains the curious shrine of St. Suibert, an English monk, \vho preached Chris- tianity here in the 8th cent. Here is a re- markable choritable institution founded by the Protestant pastor, Fliedner. rt. DusSELDORF. (Stat.) Inns: Breidenbacher Hof, good. Hotel Dom- hardt. Drci Reichskronen (.3 Imp. Cro^^^ls), very comfortable. These are in the to^m. Europaischer Hof (good) and Prinz von Preussen close to the Railway station. Dilsseldorf, capital of the duchy of Berg, is situated on the rt. bank of the Rhine, here about 1200 ft. broad, and traversed by a bridge of boats, at the junction of the small river Diissel, which gives its name to the to'v^ii. It has 31,000 Inhab., and was a fortified town do^vn to the peace of Luneville ; but at present is surrounded by gardens and pleasant walks in the place of ram- parts. It is the residence of Prince Frederick of Prussia, cousin of the Eang, and is the seat of the Provincial Estates, or Parliament of the Rhenish Provinces. It is divided into 3 quar- ters — the -iltstadt, with nan'ow and dirty sti'eets ; the Karlstadt, and the Xeustadt, which are the finest quarters. Diisseldorf, though a neat tovai, con- tains nothing remarkable at present except its school of living artists, who occupy the Palace near the Rhine, built by the Elector John William, whose bronze statue stands in the mar- ket-place on horseback. The maia edi- fice, with many other buildings, was destroyed by the bombardment of the French, 1794, save one wing, and has only recently been rebuilt. It con- tained, down to 1805, the famous col- lection of pictures now at Munich. One large painting of inferior excel- lence, the Ascension of the Virgin, bj- Bubois, was left behind. The old pictui-es which now fill the gallery are not good for much. Tasso and the 2 Leonoras by Carl Sohn is a charming modern work. There is a very remarkable Collection oi Drav:ings by the old masters, 14,280 in number, including several by Ra- phael, A. Mantegna, Ginlio Romano (designs for the Palazzo del T.), Do- menichino, M. Angelo, Titian, &c. Also 300 di-awings in water-coloui's, copies of the most remarkable works of Italian painters of all schools fi-om the 4th cent, by Ramhoux. Below the gal- leiy is the public Library. The Diisseldorf school of painting^ which, cmiously enough, has had its rise since the removal of the jiictiu'e galleiy, was founded in 1828, under the direction of Cornelius (a native of the town), in whose studio many clever artists have formed themselves. In the historical branch of art it is particularly strong. Eveiy summer, usually in July and August, there is an exhilDition of paintings here by native and living artists, which continues open till the month of September, after which the pictures are dispersed. The studios of the artists in a wing of the Palace are shoA^-n from 12 to 2. The Ch. of St. Andrew {Hofkirche) contains some pictures by Diisseldorf artists : in it and the Ch. of St. Laiubcrt are several monuments of fonner princes. In the ch. of the Jesuits is a good spe- cimen of Deger's painting. It is over the altar in the S. aisle, and represents the Virgin standing on clouds, support- ing the infant Saviour. The Hofjarten is one of the finest public gardens in Germany, much va- ried in surface, having groves and water, and commanding a good view of the Pthine ; it is a very agreeable promenade. There is a Theatre here, and music is very much cultivated. Diisseldorf derives its chief import- ance and prosperity fifom its situation on the Rhine ; it serves as a port for the merchandise sent from the indus- trious manufacturing districts of the Duchy of Berg. Cottons and cloths are brought down hither from Elber- feld, iron-ware from Sohlingen, and limestone from Ratingen, to be shipped and exported. English Ch. Service on Sunday at the German Protestant Temple, Bergor- Strasse, at II^a-.m. and 3ir.M. Penipelfort, in the \-icinity of the PJienish Prussia, route 35. — xijmegex to cologne, cleves. 117 to\m on tlie E., "vras the residence of the philosopher Frederick Jacobi, and the resort of Guthe, Wieland, Herder, Stolberg, and a host of distinguished literarj' men of the last cent. The mansion of Count Spoe, at Helkloi'fy about 12 m. from Diisscldorf, near the Calcum stat., on the railroad to Duisbiu-g, contains Frescoes by modem Gei-man artists of great excel- lence : — 1 . The inter-\-ieAV of Pope Alexander III. and the Emperor, in St. Mark's, ^'enice, by Cornelius; 2. Hen- ry the Lion, the head of the Guelphic paity, submitting to the Emp. Bar- barossa ; 3. The Himiiliation of the Milanese to Barbarossa — both by 2Iucke ; and, 4. Barbarossa seizing with his owti hand the Saracen standard, by Lessiag ; two other designs by Miicke and Lessing. Du--isclthal^ 3 m. from Dlisseldorf, is a sequestrated Abbey, converted into an asylum for destitute children by the benevolent exertions of Count von der Recke, who with his family resides on the spot, and devotes his time and attention to the institution. About 140 chilchcn of both sexes receive a plain, useful education, and are taught some trade by which they may maintain themselves respectably. Eailroads — from Diisseldorf to Co- lo.gne ; trains in 1 h. (Rte. 66) — to Elberfeld, jMinden, Hanover, Magde- bui-g, and Berlin (in 9 h.) (Rte. 67) The Steamer takes 5 h. in ascend- ing, 2\ in descending the Rhine between Diisscldorf and Colog-ne. The Rhine winds so much as to render the distance by water about one-foiulh greater than that by land. 1. Soon after quitting Diisseldorf the steeple of Xeuss (p. 118) is visible. Dnisus is said to have thrown a bridge over the Rhine here : at present there is a flying bridge at Hetdorf. rt. Beiii'ath Stat., a handsome cha- teau, built by the Electors of Cleves and Berg, and inhabited by Murat while gi-and duke, is seen at a distance. 1. Zons, a town of many towers. The river Coupper is crossed. rt. Muhlheim Stat., aflom-ishing town. Close to it is Stammheim, the scat of Count Fiirstenberg, with its new Gothic chapel. 1. Cologne Station. (Rte. 36). In descending the Rhine from Cologne to Rotterdam, a steamer reaches Xijme- gen in 12 or 14 h. From Xijmegen to Rotterdam, 8 h. ROUTE 35. XIJMEGEX TO COLOGNE, BV CLEVES, AND GELDERN OR XANTEN. 17 Pniss. m.=S2 Eng. m. ; Schnelt l?ost daily bv Xanten and Geldem in 14 h. About 6 m. from Xijmcgen the Dutch frontier is passed, and the Prussian custom-house (§ 43) is reached at If Kranenbiu-g. Before entering Cleves the road passes through the beautiful park called the Thiergarten. li Cleves (Germ. Kleve, French Cleves). Inns: Pi'inz Mauritz von Xas- sau, very good, fine view ; Hotel zum Thiergarten, good and reasonable ; Ko- nig von Preussen. Cleves is about 2^ m. from the Rhine, but is connected with it by a canal ; it has 7500 Inhab., and is capital of the duchy of Cleves, an ancient possession of the house of Prussia. It is built upon 3 gentle hills, and perhaps received its name fi'om the Latin word clivum, a slope. The coimtry around is chaiming fr-om its beauty and fer- tilit}', and the pleasing variety of hills and valleys clothed with wood and verdiu-e. The old castle called the Schucanen- burg, formerly the residence of the Dukes of Cleves, in which the ill-fated Anne was bora, whom Heniy Till, termed a " Flanders mare," is now converted into public offices. The oldest paii; of it is a massive and pic- tui-esque Tmcer, 180 ft. high, built 1439, on the top of a rock, and overlooking the coiratiy far and wide. There is a very extensive view fr-om it. It de- rives its name of " the Swan's Tower" fr-om a traditional story of a strange knight who appeared to a Duchess of Cleves in a vessel drawn by a swan ; she fell in love with him, and married him, but after 10 years the swan re- turned and bore him away from his wife, who never saw him more. The tale forms the subject of one of Mr. Southey's poems. The Church contains 118 ROUTE 35. — CREFELD. XEUSS. XAXTEX. Sect. II. several montiments of tlie Counts of Cleres. The Prinzenhof is a liandsome btiilding, erected by John 3Iaimce Prince of Xassau-Siegen, 1663, now occupied by the Count von der Lippe : and at Berg und Thai, 2 m. off, on the road to Xanten, -wi-thin a grove of trees, is the prince's ii'on tomb. The Tkiergartea is an agTceable plcasiu-e- gi'ound, containing a mineral spring, and commanding a fine vicM-. There is a fine panoramic view fiom Clevesbcrg, which is near the Hotel zum Thier- garten, and only a pleasant walk from the Hotel Piinz Mamitz. Cleves is about 4^ m. from Emmerich. Eihragen daily to Xijmcgen in 3 h. If Goch. A bad road to Crefeld. If Kevelaer. li Geldem. Inn: Schwarzer Adler, 3600 inhab. li Aldekerk. 2i CiiEFELD (Tnns: "Wilder Mann; Goldner Anker), a flourishing town of 25,897 Inhab., A^-ith .spacious streets and handsome houses, which, by theii- neatness, give to this place aU the appearance of a Dutch town. It owes its prosperity to the manufactmx'S of silk and velvet, which employ 6000 persons. Part of tlie silk goods intro- duced into England as French are in fact manufactiux'd here, and ai'e equal in quality to the French. The annual produce of the looms amounts to 4,000,000 dollars. 2^ Xeuss. Inns: Roniischer Kai- ser ; Pthcinischer Hof. It is supposed to be the Xovesium of the Ptomans, and to have been built by Dnisus, who threw a bridge over the Rhine here. The Cologne gate, still called the Drusus Thor, is Roman in the lower part, the upper being of the 14th cent. : some cannon-balls from the siege of Charles the Bold have been built into it. The toMTi is mentioned by Tacitus ; in his time it lay close to the Rhine, which at present flows 1^ m. from it. It has 7000 Inhab. The Ch. of St. Quiravs, a splendid edifice, appears, fi-om an inscription in the wall on the S. side of the interior, to have been built in 1208. It, espe- cially the W. end and tower, is one of the most remarkable specimens of the transition from the round to the pointed style. Obseiwe in the highly orna- mented "W. end the beginning of that fulness of ornament which was developed in the pointed st^-le : also the trefoH and quatrefoil pattems tak- ing the place of the plain panelling of the round style. The 4 pimiaclcs at the angles of the W. tower are evi- dently later additions. Inside, although most of the side arches are pointed, the vaulting of the nave is roirnd. Observe the oblong cupola, and the peculiar form of the windows in the nave, aisles, transepts, and cupola. This form seems to have been adopted in order to give more light where there was not suf- ficient -space for a large circular win- dow. The cupola is ornamented with some early paintings by Comeli'ts, in cliioro oscuro. Leaving Xeuss, the road ti-avcrses the abandoned bed of the Rhine. 2 Dormagen. 2f Cologne, in Rte. 36. Between Cleves and Xeuss the tra- veller has the choice of another post- road, which is better than the preced- ing, but is also longer. It passes If Calcar. In the Ch. (14th cent.) are fine altar-pieces by John Y. Calcar. 2 Xaxtex {Inn, Xieder-Rheinischer Hof), a town of 3400 Inhal)., the Castra Vetera of the Romr.ns. Julius Ca3sar is said to have built a fort here, and the Prretorian camp of Varus, fi-om which he led the Roman legions across the Rhine, was on the 'neighbouring hill called Fiirstenberg. According to one version of the legend, the Emp. Max- imian, about 290 a.d., cau.sed St. Ge- reon and the Theban legion, amoimting to 6000 men, to be executed here be- cause they had become Christians. The scene of this legend is also placed at Agaunum, now St. Marrrice, in the Canton Valais, Switzerland ; but of course this version is not received at Cologne, where the ti-aveller may see the bones of the legion in St. Gercon's Chirrch. The Church of St. Victor is a very ancient and beautiful structure, well worth notice, in the pointed st^-le of architectiue (date 1383), except the W. front, probably built 1128. The rjieimli Prussia, eoute 36. — aix-la-chapelle to cologne. 119 altar-piece is the best \s'ork oi BartJi. de Bruyn, a Cologne painter, 153-i. The countiy around affords abimdant ti'aces of its ancient masters, in the va- riety of Eoman antiquities every day brought to light. There is a very ex- tensive collection of them here, belong- ing to Mr. Houben, a notary. At Xanten stood the castle of the Xiebe- limgcn, the heroes of the old German epic, and here Siegfried, the slayer of the di'agon, was bom, according to it. Beyond Xanten the road is heavy sand and gravel ; it passes by the scarcely distinguishable site of a Eoman amphi- theatre. If Griinthal. 1 Ptheinbiu'g, formerly a strong for- tress, had the honour to be captured by Louis XI Y. in person, 1672. 1^ Meiu's. IJ Uerdingen. There is a dii-ect road from this to Xeuss, leaving Crefeld on one side, to 3 Xeuss. Hence to Cologne 4| Germ, m., as above. EOL^TE 36. AIX-LA-CHAPELLE TO COLOGNE. — RAILROAD. 9;^ Pi-ussian m.=43^ Eng. m. Aix-la-Chapelle (Germ. Aachen). Inns : Grand Monarque, chez Dremel ; | first-rate to those ^vho ti-avel in fii'st- | rate style, and not bad for others ; table-d'hote at 2 and 5 ; — Xuellen's | Hotel is recommended as capital, in a \ good situation, close to the Foimtain ; — H. d'Emperem-; — Grand Hotel, good and moderate, close to the Baths ; — Belle^-ue, good and -svell situated; — Couronne Imperiale, very good and quiet ; — H. dcs Quatre Saisons, kept by Huber, in a fine airy situation, also very good.— 6^. — Dragon d'Or, good; — H. de la Eose. The passports of travellers who have just entered Pi-ussia from the j Belgian frontier are examined here, ' and Aised by the authorities. The ! passports taken from travellers by the Eailway remain 2 days at the station — if not reclaimed thence within that time, they are forwarded to the H. de Ville. Passports of travellers not stop- ping here are returned immediatclv. Aix-la-Chapelle, a town of 47,518 Inhab. (1973 Protestants), was known to the Eomans under the name of Aquis Granum. The waiTU spiings were a sufficient inducement to fix that bath- loving people on the spot, and remains of their baths are constantly foimd in digging. It is to Charlemagne, how- ever, that the city owes its eminence. He was bom here, as some conjectiu'c, and without doubt died here, 814. He raised it to the rank of second city in his empire, and made it capital of his dominions X. of the Alps, appointing it the place of coronation for the Gennan emperors, his successors, 37 of whom, and 11 empresses, were crowned here between 814 and 1531. In the middle ages it flourished with the privileges of a Free Imperial City, and attained great eminence in its ma- nufactiu-es, especially in that of cloth, for which it is celebrated even to the present day. It was the scene of many Diets of the Empire, and of several coimcils of the Chm-ch ; and in later times it has been distinguished by the Congi-esscs held here : — 1. In 1668, when a treaty of peace was concluded between France and Spain ; — 2. In 1748, when a gene- ral peace was signed by the sovereigns of Europe; and — 3. In 1818, at which the Emperors of Austria and Eussia, and King of Prussia, were present in person, and Ambassadors were sent from George IT. and Louis XYIIL, to decide on the evacuation of France by the Allied armies. After the Peace of Paris Aix was separated from France, to which it had been xmited by Xapoleon, and added to the dominions of the King of Pnissia. The handsome new streets and fine buildings erected since that event, as well as the increase of popidation, show a rctiu-n to its ancient prosperitj'. In- deed it has rapidly risen into import- ance as a manufacturing town. The huge chimneys starting up on all sides, and the clouds of smoke, are evidence of this. Since the days of the Eomans and Charlemagne it has been celebrated as a wateiing-place, and is annually frequented by many thousand visi- tors. 120 ROUTE 36. — AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. CATHEDRAE. Sect. II. The Hotel do Ville (Eatlihaiis), in the market-place, is a large and soincT\'hat imposing bnilding, erected 1353, on the site of the Palace of the Prankish Kings, in which Charlemagne was bom. It has 3 floors, vaulted, and a staii'case, erected 1851, leads to each. The Toirer of Granus, at the E. end (where the Passport and Police Office is), said en'oneonsly to he of Roman origin, was built 1215. The semicircular tower on theW. side belonged to the Carlo^-ingian Palace. The Eathhaus is remarkable as the place of meeting of the two Con- gresses of 1748 and 1818. In the grand saloon (Kaisersaal), on the 3rd floor, where the conferences were held, are some modem frescoes, — scenes from the Life of Charlemagne, by Bethel ; and in a small room on the lower floor, some bad pictures of the members of the Congresses collectively, and some equally bad portraits of the ministers and sovereigns who assisted at them ; among them, that of Lord Sandwich, the English minister, is conspicuous ; also Kapolcon's portrait, presented by himself to the town. A smaller room was occupied by Sir Thomas La^Tence as a painting-room, in 1818, M'hile tak- ing the portraits of the sovereigns and other eminent persons then assembled, for the gallciy at Windsor. In the centre of the scjuare is a foun- tain surmounted by the bronze statxie of the Empr. Charle/nagne, erected 1620. A tunx'ted house opposite the Eath- haus, and the Old Prison, or Iiomhaiis, in the Schmiede-Strasse, ha-sdng a good front vnth statues of the 7 Electors (XII, cent.), are remarkable. The Munster or Domkirche {Cathedral) consists of 2 parts, erected at diflbrent times, in diffc-rent styles. The nave, an octagon within, but having externally 16 sides, with round arches, stands on the spot where Charlemagne had erected (796-804) "the chapel," afterwhichthe city was named. He designed it to be a burial-place for himself, causing it to be constiTicted in the form of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem. It was consecrated by Pope Leo III., " with a ceremony worthy of its splen- doiu- ; 365 archbishops and bishops were to be present at the solemnity, but, imluckily, 2 were missing ; and there is no knowing what might have re- sulted if 2 reverend prelates of Tongres, quietly reposing in their graA'es at Maes- tricht, had not been so kind as to walk out and supply the vacant seats at the ceremony. So says the tradition of the place." The original chm-ch was de- stroyed by the Normans, and rebuilt in its present form by the Empr. Otho III. in 983, no doubt parth' in conformity with the ancient plan, and perhaps with the old materials ; it is decidedly one of the oldest buildings in Germany. On the rt.-hand side of the gi'eat door is the figiu-e of a she-bear which has puzzled antiquarians. The brass doors and rails of the church are veiy ancient. The position of the Tomb, in which once reposed the mortal remains of Charlemagne, is marked by a large slab of marble under the centre of the dome, inscribed with the words " Ca- ROLO Magno." a massive brazen chan- delier (the candlesticks are modem) hangs above it, the gift of the Emp. Frederic Barbarossa. The vault below, now empty, was opened by him in 1165. It had already been opened, A.D. 997, by Otho HI., after Pope Paschal III. had made Charlemagne a saint. He foimd the body of Charle- mag-ne not reclining in his coffin, as is the usual fashion of the dead, Init seated in his throne as one alive, clothed in the imperial robes, bearing the sceptre in his hand, and on his knees a copy of the Gospels. On his fleshless brow was the crown, the imperial mantle covered his shoulders, the sword Joyeusc was by his side, and the pilgrim's pouch, which he had borne always while liv- ing, was still fastened to his girdle. All these venerable relics were removed, and used in the coronation ceremonies of succeeding Emperors of Germany. They are now deposited at Vienna. The throne, in M'hich the body of Char- lemagne was seated, alone remains here ; it is placed in the gallery (Iloch Miinster) rimning romid the octagon, facing the choir. It is an arm-chair, in shape somewhat like that of Edward the Confessor in "Westminster Abbey, but made of slabs of white marble, PJienisli Prussia, eoute 36. — aix-la-chapelle. relics. 121 Avhieh, cTiiring the coronation, -^-ere covered -vvitli plates of gold. It is pro- tected by wooden boards, which the sacristan will remore to satisfy a stranger's curiosity. The arches of the gallery are now once more adorned with some of the o2 pillars of granite and porphyiy brought by Charlemagne jfrom the Exarch's Palace at Ravenna, and partly from' the East. These were somewhat wantonly removed by the French : a part of them only were re- tmiied from Paris, the rest have been replaced by modei'n pillars given by the King of Prussia. In the side chapel of St. Nicholas stands an antique Sarco- phagus of Parian marble, the work of Roman or Greek artists, ornamented with a fine bas-relief of the Rape of Prosei-pine : the feet of the dead Charle- magne originally rested in it, within his tomb. The Choir^ a more modem addition, begim in 1353, finished 1413, " is of prodigious height (114 ft.) and light- ness, having the appearance of a stu- pendous lantern all of glass." It con- tains a pulpit, covered with plates of silver gilt, richly ornamented with carvings in ivory and precious stones : this is concealed by a wooden case, which the sacristan will remove. Mary Queen of Scots presented the image of the Yirgin over the altar with a cro^vn of gold, which was stolen in 1843, and all traces of it are lost. The Emp. Otho III. is biu-ied beneath the high altar. FuU musical mass every Sun- day, at 10 a.m. The only paintings worth notice in the Dom are an ancient piece in an upper chapel by William Kalb, and a fine altar-piece, in compartments, said to be by Albert Diirer (.^), in the sacristy. The Treasury or Sacristy of the church is verj' rich in relics. These are divided into the Lesser and the Greater relics. Among the former are the skull of Charlemagne, enclosed in a silver case, something like a barber's block, and his arm-bone, both taken, it is said, from his grave. It is recorded of Chai-lcmagne that he was of tall stature, and this is believed to be con- firmed by the immense length and thickness of this arm-bone; imluckily it has been discovered by one whose knowledge of anatomy leaves no room for doubting the fact, that the bone is no arm at aU, but a leg -bone, or tibia ! The case for the ana was the gift of Louis XL of France, who had it made 1481. The rest of the bones of Charle- magne were discovered here, in 1847, in a chest, put away in a dark closet. Besides these are the hunting-horn of Charlemagne, formed of an elephant's tusk ; also a locket of the Yu'gin's hair, and a piece of the true cross, 2 relics which he wore roimd his neck, in his grave, as well as while alive. The leathern gii-dle of Chiist (on which may still be seen the impression of Constantino's seal), the cord which bound the rod which smote him, a nail of the Cross, the sponge which was filled with vinegar, that arm of Simeon on which he bore the infant Jesus, some of the blood and bones of St. Stephen, some manna from the Wilderness, and some bits of Aaron's rod, are still preserved here! It was upon these relics that the Emperor of Gei-many swore at his coronation. The Grandes Reliques are sho-«-n only once in 7 yeai's, from the 15th to the 27th of July. The next exhibition -o-ill take place in 1853. So sacred was this ceremony held, and so high was the pri- vilege esteemed of obtaining a glimpse of them, that in former times no fewer than 150,000 pilgrims resorted to the spot fi'om all parts on this occasion ; and in 1846, the last exhibition, the number exceed 180,000. These relics were presented to Charlemagne by the Patriarch of Jerusalem, and by Ilaroun- al-Raschid. They are deposited in a rich shrine of silver gilt, the work of artists of the 9th cent., and consist of — 1. The robe worn by the Yu-gin at the Nativity ; it is of cotton, 5 ft. long. —2. The swaddling-clothes in which Jesus was ^vrapped ; they are of cloth, as coarse as sacking, of a yellow coloiu-. — 3. The cloth on which the head of John the Baptist was laid.— 4. The scarf worn by our Saviour at the Cruci- fixion, bearing stains of blood. Inter- mixed M-ith these religious relics are many ciuious antique gems, some Ba- bylonian cylinders, and the like, -which 122 ROUTE 36. — AIX. SPEIXGS. BATHS. Sect. II. serve a? jewels to ornament the saintly treasure*. The church plate and articles of goldsmith's work, shrines, ampuls, reliquaries, crosses, chalices, &c., pre- served in this sacristy, render it a per- fect museum, and a real treasure of the best period of Gothic art, deseiwing at- tention for the inventive skill sho^ATi in the designs, and the excellent execu- tion of the ornaments. Those who de- spise the relics will at least be gratified by the sight of the cases in which they are enshrined. "It is perhaps the richest collection of the land remain- ing, and gives a vast idea of the wealth of the chvu'ch in former days. The most remarkable pieces are 2 large shiines of silver gilt enamelled, with figures and inscriptions, said to be gifts of Otho III. and Frederick II. ; the golden plates that covered the throne of Charlemagne, impressed with figures in the Byzantine style ; a fine ivory cup ; 2 pure Gothic reliquaries of gold, of the most beautiful workmanship, gifts of the Emp. Charles Y. and Philip II. of Spain, but e^ddently of much earlier date. -cVll these well deserve the attention of the architcctm-al student." —F. S. The plate and the lesser relics are shown \)Y the treasurer for a fee of 1 dollar or 4 fr. ; and the throne, sarco- phagus, and pulpit, by the verger, who expects I a dollar from a party. A veiy handsome wide street leads from the Eailway to the Theatre, and to \h.Q Fountain of Elisa (Elisenbnmnen) , a fine building with a Doric colonnade ; it serves the purjiose of a pump-room, and has a cafe attached to it, elegantly fitted up. The guests, or visitors, re- pair hither early in the morning to drink the water, which, though con- ducted in pipes direct from the Em- peror's spring, retains a temperature of 43° Eeaumiur. A band of excellent music plays at the spot until the middle of Sept., from 6 to 8 a.m., which is considered the end of the season ; and breakfasts or dinners are provided in the apartments adjoining the spring. The building is named after the Q. of Piaissia. The Mineral Springs of Aix rise in the centi-e of the toAvn ; they are of 2 classes : the upper, which are the strongest and hottest ; the lower, which are weaker and cooler. In the first class the principal spring is the Source de r Empjereur ; it contains a larger quantity of sulphur than any other known in Europe ; and when the va- pour arising fi-om it is confined, and not allowed to escape, it deposit's crys- tals of sulphui'. It has a temperature of MS** Fahr., and owes its disagree- able taste to the presence of supersul- phuretted hj'ch-ogen gas. This and the 2 contiguous sources supply— 1. The Bain de VEmpereur^ situated in the street called the Biichel, and containing 20 baths. — 2. The Bain Kevf, comfortable, and better lighted than Xo. 1. The charge for the sul- phiu-eous bath is 1| fr. ; for the vapour bath 4 fr. — 3. Bain de la Reine d'Hongrie. — 4. Bain St. Quirin, having only 38*^ Eeaimiur. So gi'cat is the heat of these springs that the waste water allowed to escape tkrough the sewers of the town is employed by the common people to wash therr linen; and not only saves them the expense of fuel, but also of soap, since the natron or alkaline salt contained in it supplies its place. It may be obsers'cd that linen washed in the water acquires so disagreeable an odour, that strangers will repent if they allow their clothes to be subjected to it. The baths supplied by the lower spring, situated in the sti'cet called Comphausbad, are — 1. Le Bain de la Rose.—I. Bain St. Corneille.—o. Bain St. Charles. — 4. Comphausbad, appro- priated to the use of the poor. Besides the wami spring there arc also som-ces of chalybeate -water, to re- ceive which a Bath-house and Hotel are erected in the Neue Strasse. The bath-houses are the property of the town, and are let to tenants : they contain lodgings, and are pretty much on a pai\ The Eedoide, or Gaming-house, in the Comphausbad- Strasse, con-esponds with what in other watering-places is called the Kursaal. The lower story is occu- pied by print and music shops, by a restaurant, and a reading-room, where the principal European newspapers are to be fo\md. In the gi-and suite of Mhemsh Prussia. ROUTE 36. — AIX. BOECETTE, 123 ^.partinents balls are given once or t"n'ice a-week during the season, but they are principally devoted to gambling. — Games of hazard, rouge-et-noir, rou- lette, (S:c., are carried on in them, from-J-ito 6|, and from 9.] in the evening till 1 1 1 . The tables are open to all comers except the inhabitants of the toTS-n and officers in the Prussian army, who are expressly for- bidden by a police order to play at the tables, and a police officer is stationed in each room to prevent the infringe- ment of this la\r; but it is evaded nevertheless. The rooms are princi- pally frequented at noon, and after the theatre is over. Before 10 p.m. the lowest stake allowed is a thaler. Public gamiag-tables are tolerated in no other spot in the Prussian dominions ; and are only suffered here in consideration of the benefit which the town derives from the nvimber of strangers whom they annually attract, and who would resort elsewhere if gaming were pro- hibited. The tables are let out to a company, who are compelled to apply a large portion of their gains to the im- provement of the town and the walks in the neighbourhood. The Manufacture of Cloth, the most important in Aix-la-Chapelle, employs 3000 persons in the to^vn ; and more than 12,000 in it and its immediate neighbom-hood are occupied in prepai*- ing the wool. There are about 2000 needlemakers in the tovrn, and it con- tains a large manufactory of sj)inning machinery. Nearly 50 large factories are in activity at Aix and Burtscheid. At Mayer's Library a book is kept in which the addresses of English visiters to Aix are entered. Here are to be found English newspapers. H. Benrath has a well-fixmished librarj' and music- shop. He keeps the subscription book for the English Chmx-h. Fhysician. Dr. Yelter, speaks English. The Boulevard, above alluded to, is a pleasant promenade, occupying the place of the levelled ditch and walls of the town, prettily laid out, shaded by fine trees. The Environs of Aix abound in beautiful walks. A pleasant walk of ■~ m. from the gates of Aix leads by an avenue of trees to Borcette (Germ. Burtscheid), a small [b. & R.] I town of 5000 inhab. and a watering- j place. On the way the noble viaduct I is passed, which canies the Cologne ! railway (p. 12-i) over the valley of Bmtscheid. Persons intending to take the waters, and desiiing retirement, I will find this a less expensive place of j residence than Aix. Inns : Bain de la : Hose (Rosenbad), quiet and comfortable ; ! good baths and table-d'hote ; G. — H. St. Chai'les, good ; — Bain de I'Epee, an old castle converted into an hotel ; board and lodging less than 5 fr. per day. The principal soiu-ce, called Fontaine bouillante, Kochbninnen, is hotter than any at Aix (179'^ Fahrenheit) ; it re- sembles the Aix waters in its contents, but, while they are nauseous from the taste of sulphur, this is almost tasteless : all that can be detected is a slightly saline flavom-, by no means disagTce- able. It i-ises in the open air in the middle of the principal street. Burt- scheid also contains springs of saline water not unlike that of "Wiesbaden. The hot springs are so copious that the rivulet formed by the union of them rims warm ; — das "Warme Bach. About half a mile X. of Aix, on the opposite side to Borcette, beyond the Sandkaul Thor, is the hiU called the Louisherg, or Lousberg, 200 ft. high, ' siu'moxmted by a pyramid or obelisk, raised for ti'igonometrical purposes, near which a beautifid ^-iew is obtained of Aix, of the line of the Eailway, and along the rich valley (Siiersthal) strewn -R-ith coimtry -houses. The white pilgrimage chm-ch on the Salvatorsberg is a con- spicuous object. The summit of the Louisberg may be reached in j hi-, by an easy caniage-road, and between 4 and 5 crowds of people flock thither. On the lower slope stands a handsome Restaurant and Cafe, the Belvedere, with a saloon commanding a noble prospect. About 3 m. oft' is a very pretty garden, called Kaisersruhc. On the way thither is Tivoli, an agreeable pleasm-c- groimd. About 2^ m. from Aix, ou the road to Treves (Rte. 43), is Schloss Schmforsf, a fragment of a Castle, now converted into a pretty garden — fine view. I^ear this Schanthal, a public garden, communicating with some fine 124 EOUTE 36. — RAILWAY TO COLOGNE. Sect. II. wooded valleys. An agreeable diive of 3 m. along the Burtscheid road, and by the Eonheid Stat., leads to Carlshohe, a thickly wooded ridge, laid out as ■walks. A pleasant walk, is to the Franlenhurg^ described below, 1 m. dis- tant from the Adalbertsthor. About 2 m. out of Aix, on the rt. of the post-road to Cologne, is the chateau of Ivalkofen, in which General Eliott, the brave defender of Gibraltar, died, having killed himself, it is said, by an excessive use of the waters. Carriages for hire are expensive at Aix; between 4 and 6 dollars are asked jier diem. 2| fi-, an hour, with pour boire to driver. There are droskies and omni- buses at the railway, § 20 A. Schnellposts (§ 50) to Diisseldorf, Maes- tiicht, and Treves (Ptte.43),andCrefeli Railroads — to Cologne, trains 4 times a-day in 2| hrs. ; to Liege 4 times a- day ; to Brussels and Antsverp 3 times, and to Ostend tv\'ice a-day, in 12 hrs. To Maestricht begun; one direct to Diisseldorf is about to be constructed. Railroad to Cologne^ 9*33 G. nu = 71 kilometres, or 43^ Eng- in- The terminus stands midway between Aix-la-Chapelle and Borcette. A noble Viaduct, 892 ft, long and 70 ft, high in the centre, consisting of 2 tiers of 15 small and 20 large brick arches, carries the railway from the station across the nan-ow valley of the AYunnbach, in which Borcette is built. A good view is obtained, a little beyond it, of Aix- la - Chapelle, and the Lousberg behind. (1.) Close by the side of the railway, 1 m. from Aix, stands the Castle of Frankenhurg, an ivy-clad and ruined tower of considerable antiquity, to which a more modern edifice (date 1642) is attached. Charlemagne is said to have foimded and inhabited a castle on this spot ; and here, accord- ing to the legend, died his beloved queen Fastrada. He caused her body to be enclosed in a coffin of glass, and never quitted it day or night, neglecting the concerns of his empire, and abandoning himself wholly to grief, until Tiirjnn the Wise, watching one day until he slept, opened the coffin, took off the golden wedding ring from the dead queen's finger, threw it into the castle moat, and thus released the emperor from the spell of sorrov\-. (1.) The \'illage Nirm is seen just before we enter the cutting leading to the Nii-mer Tunnel, a costly work, though only 327 yards long, which carries the railway through the basin of hills which sun'ormds Aix. Traversing a beautiful wood called Beichswald, we reach 1*35 rt. Stolberg Stat. (Hissels and Welters Inns.) Stolberg, a manufac- turing town of 3000 Inhab., lies about 3 m. S. of this, up a valley studded with miUs, forges, and coimtry seats. The town is surmounted by a pic- turesque old castle on the top of the hill. The principal manufacture is that of brass, and the conversion of it into wire, (fcc. Zinc is obtained from mines in the vicinitj'. The district traversed by the railway, and in which Stolberg lies, is a pro- ductive coalfield, supplying numerous manufactories of iron and glass, &:c. It is scattered over with houses, steam- engines, and chimneys. L and rt- The village Pumpe, which includes extensive iron-works, is inha- bited chiefly by coal-miners, and re- ceives its name from the steam-engines used to pump water out of the coalmine near to which the railroad passes. Ex- cellent coal is furnished hence, and is much used by the steamboats on the Rhine. Some of the shafts are more than 1000 ft. deep. After crossing the Inde, the small stream flowing out of the vale of Stol- berg, a second tunnel of no great length, driven through the rock of the Ichen- berg in a cuiwe, brings the railroad to •43 1. EschweUer stat. Inn : Post. This is an industrious town of 3600 Inhab., on the Inde, having manufac- tures of sUk, iron, wii-e, &:c., and an old picturesque castle close to the railway, on the 1., restored in the ancient style, and rendered habitable by a private gentleman. The fortress of Jiilich (p. 135) is about 9 m. from this stat. We next pass 1. the old Castle of Xothberg, flanked by 4 round towers. From the top of a high embankment a good view is obtained of the pleasing vale of the Inde, which is finally con- Rh2iiish Frussia. eoute 36. — duren. cologxe. 125 cealed by the sides of the deep cutting leading to 105 Langervehe Stat. A viaduct of 7 arches conveys the raiboad over the vale of the "Wehe beyond this stat. On the rt., after coming out of the cutting . beyond this, lie the village and castle | Jlerodc, -vrixh. 4 towei-s at the angles, ■ 2 high and 2 lo^, capped -with irregu- j larly shaped spires. This is the cradle ! of a family still existing in Belgium, | one of whose ancestors, in the 30 years' ; war, was leader of a fi-ee coi-ps in the Imperial army, distinguished above all others for its insubordination, habits of plunder, and brutality. The name " Merodem-er" became a by-word for a plunderer, and a name of terror so widely understood, that it has been adopted even in om* own language in the word " marauder," properly applied to imdiscipHned soldiers, who desert their corps to steal. The railway is caiTied through the midst of the village Dhorn, and a Little j to the 1. of Giirzenich, before it crosses, ; by a bridge of 6 arches, the Ruhr, a river well kno^-n in sti-ategic history, especially in the revolutionary French campaign of 1792-3. Less than 1 m. beyond the Ruhr lies 1-25 Diiren Stat. — Iwis : Post (Pfalzer Hof), good; Esser's, near the raikoad, best. Diiren is a town of 8000 ! inhab., devoted to manufactm^es, the . chief of which are of cloth and paper. \ The Ch. of St. Anne, with a high tower, | possesses the head of that saint enclosed in a strong box. A Pi-otestant church has been recently built. Charles Y. was nearly killed by a shot fired firom the walls by a toAvnsman, as he was besieging Diiren, which he took and destroyed, after an obstinate resistance, | with a force amoimting to 61,800 men, , in the year 154:3. Diiren owes its j origin and name to the Roman station | Marcodurum, mentioned by Tacitxls. There is nothing very remarkable in | the to^\^l. [A pleasant excm-sion may ■ be made up the valley of the Ruhr to [ the pictiu-esque village Xiedeggen, 8 m. S. of Diiren, on a hill crowned by | ruins of the Castle in which Engclber*- Archbishop of Cologne was imprisoned 1267-70, commanding an extensive view, including the battle-field of Ziil- pich (Tolbiacum), where Clovis defeated the Alemanni, a.d. 496, and, becoming a convert to Christianity, was baptized, it is said, in the font still preserved in the venerable crypt under the parish church. Ziilpich is about 10 m. S. E. of Diiren.] A cutting neaiiy 3 m. long canies the railway through the high gi'ound which separates the basin of the Mouse from that of the Rhine. It terminates a little way short of 1-25 Bull- Stat. The raih'oad is carried by a high embankment over the lowlands of the valley of the Erft, which river is crossed on 3 bridges a little before reaching 1-5 HoiTem Stat. 1. Beyond the village rises the Castle of Frenz, whose ancient owners were descended from one of the 15 noble families of Cologne who ti-aced their de- scent from colonists established in that city by the Emperor Trajan, a.d. 108 ! The railway passes from the valley of the Erft into that of the Rhine by the Konvjsdorfer Tunnel, 1 m. long, carried through a hill of sand 136 ft. below the summit, and lined vdih brick. •67. Konigsdorf Stat. 1. of Brauwerter see the tower, a large Benedictine convent, now a Peni- tentiary. In the fine Ch. (13th cent.) is an engraved monumental slab, and some paintings on the roof. Close beyond this the high road from Cologne to Jiilich is crossed. ■88. Mungersdorf Stat. A fine view is presented of Cologne, with its many towers and steeples ; c-<3nspicuous among which rises the oc- tagon of St. Gereon. Just where the raih-oad arrives abrea.st of the walls, it passes (rt.) one of the detached forts, half-bmied towers, surrounded by trees like an island in the open plain, each capable of moimting 100 gims, forming part of the defences of the city, and a second, on the 1., shortly before reach- ing the •95. Cologne Terminus, which is on the 1. bank of the Rhine, below the city, and 3 m. distant from the stat. of the Bonn Railway. Omnibuses to the several hotels. Steamferry across the h2 126 ROUTE 36. — COLOGNE. HISTORICAL ASSOCIATIONS. Sect. II. Ehino to the Minden and Berlin Ely. Cabs, Germ. Droscliken, stand for hii-e. After passing along tlie winter harboui-, a dock to protect vessels from the ice, Cologne is entered by the Eigelsteins Thor, an old fortified gateway which is inconveniently naiTOW. Cologne (Germ. Koln, Dutch Keu- len). Inns: On the Ehine Quay, close to the steamei's, are — Rheinischer Hof, clean and well conducted, though dear ; Grand Hotel Eoyal, veiy good ; Hotel de Cologne. Hollandischer Hof; In the middle of the to"«Ti are — the Hotel Disch, Briicken Strasse, recommended ; Kaiserlieher Hof, near the post-office ; Maiazer Hof, near the diligences, good. Inns in Deutz, on the opposite side of the Ehine : Hotel de BeUevue, excellent, commanding fi-om its fi-ont windows a fine view of Cologne, and not far from the station of the Minden, Hanover, and Berlin Eailway ; Prinz Karl ; H. Fuchs, These inns have gardens over- looking the river, in which there is commonly music eveiy evening in summer. Droskies (cabs) 15-20 S. gr. the hour ; a drive of 15-20 min., with 1 or 2 persons, 5 S. gr. ; with 3 or 4, 10 S. gr. TarifiTof prices is hung up in every cab. Cologne is a fortified town on the 1. bank of the Ehine. Pop. 90,085 (8566 Protestants), including Deutz, its subiu'b, and Tete de Pont, on the rt. bank, vciXh. which it is connected by a boat bridge 1400 ft. long. It is the largest and wealthiest city on the Ehine, and a free port. Cologne owes its existence to a camp pitched here by the Eomans, under Marcus Agxippa, which was afterwards enlarged and rendered permanent by the removal, xmder Tiberius, of a native tribe, called the Ubii, from the rt. bank of the Ehine (Tacitus, Aim. I. 36), and their settlement at the spot now occu- pied by Cologne. This fii'st citj' was called Civitas Ubiorum. More than 80 years after, Agrippina, mother of Xero, sent hither a colony of Eoman veterans, and gave to it her own name, calling it Colonia Agrippina. A part of its ancient appellation is stiU. retained in the modem name of Cologne. Cologne -abounds in historical asso- ciations. Traces of the possession of this city by the Eomans remain, not only in various fragments of walls, originally part of the outer defences, though now far within the city, and in the numerous altars, inscriptions, coins, &c., which come to light almost wher- ever the gi'ound is tiuned up, but even in the features and complexions of its inhabitants, who ai-e said to betray their hereditary blood, and to clifier considerably from thefr German neigh- bom'S. The iahabitants were so proud of their Eoman origin, that up to the time of the French revolution the higher citizens styled themselves patii- cians — the 2 bm-gomasters wore the consular toga, and were attended by lictors — while the town banners bore the pompous inscription S. P. Q. C. The foundations of the Eoman walls may be traced in the verj' heart of the present city through the street Auf der Burgmauer, by the Zeughaus — by the Klarenthurm, a tower of brick in opus reticulation, called Eoman, though really a work of the Franks, but standing on the Eoman wall ; thence through nu- merous gardens past the Apostles' chuix-h to the Lach, where is another so-caUcd Eoman tower, and the Marsilstein ; thence eastward to St. Marj-'s Church, where the capitol stood; thence past the Eathhaus, which occupies the site of the Eoman PrKtorium, to the Dom. The existing outer Walls of Cologne present one of the most perfect exam- ples of the fortifications of the middle ages, M-ith picturesque flanking towers and gate-houses. They were built be- tween the 12th and 15th cent. The greater part is probably of about the year 1185. The extent of Cologne along the bank of the Ehine, fr-om the tower at the upper end called the Bayen- thurm, down to the small tower at the lo^ver end called the Thiirmchen, is about 2 J Eng. m., and the extent round the wall on the land side between these same towers is about 4^ Eng. m. Agrippina, mother of Xero, was bom here, in the camp of her father Ger- «iaiiicus ; Trajan here received the summons to assume the Imperial pur- ple ; Yitellius and Sylvanus were pro- JRhem'sh Frussia. eoute 36.— cologne, commerce. 127 claimed Emperors of Eome on the spot, and the latter was mm-dered in the Capitol. At a later period, 508, Clovis was declared king of the Franks at Cologne. From the middle of the 12th nearly to the end of the loth cent., Cologne was the most flourishing city of Northern Eiu'ope, one of the chief emporiiuns of the Hanseatic League, concentrating the trade of the East, and keeping up a direct and constant commimication with Italy. From this connection, not only the productions, but also the arts of the East, were at once transferred to the then remote "West of Eiu-ope. The architecttu-e of many of the oldest chxu-ches is identical vrith. that of Italy, and there is some similarity between the paintings of the early Italian and Rhenish schools ; it is even probable that the Southern school of art was indebted to the artists of the Xorth for some portion of its excellence. " In the middle ages, from its wealth, power, and the considerable ecclesiasti- cal foundations of its bishops, it was often called the Rome of the Xorth." — Hope. Another relic of the ancient al- liance with Italy is the Carnival, which is celebrated here, and nowhere else in the X. of Emope, in the same manner, and almost ^yiih. as much spirit and pomp of masquerading, &:c., as in Rome or Venice. The procession of masks is tolerated even in the streets here, and in one or two other to"\^"ns of the Rhenish provinces, as an ancient custom. Another amusement common in Italy, but foimd nowhere in Ger- many but at Cologne, is the Puppet Theatre (Puppcn Theater — Hennes- chen). Blind - Gasse, near the Hay- market, M'here di'oll farces are per- formed by doUs ; and the dialogue, spoken in the patois of the coimtry, and full of satifical local allusions, is carried on by persons concealed behind the scenes. Cologne has an interest for the Eng- lishman, from various associations. AViUiam Caxton settled here, 1470, and here learned the art of printing, which he speedily transferred to his own country. In 1*259 Cologne obtained the staple right by which all vessels were com- pelled to unload here, and ship their cargoes in Cologne bottoms. The Co- logne merchants enjoyed important pri- ■^-ilegcs in England; Henry YI. granted them the exclusive use of the Guildhall in London. After its period of pros- perity and splendour, dm-ing which the city 'could send forth 30,000 fighting men, came the season of decay. Com- merce took a new route across the con- tinent of Eiu'ope, and Cologne fell under the blighting domination of priests. The uncontrolled sway of bigoted ec- clesiastical rulers, on 3 occasions, marred its prospeiity^ and finally com- pleted its downfall. The first injurious act of intolerance was the persecution and expulsion of the Jews, 14-25 ; the second, the banishment of the weavers ; and the third, the expatriation of the Protestants, 1618. The injury done to the city by these arbitrary acts is best proved by the desolate condition to which they reduced it, contrasted with the increasing prosperity of Aix-la- Chapclle, Yerviers, Elberfeld, Diissel- dorf, Muhlheim, Solingen, and other cities, in which the exiles, victims of these persecutions, who were almost invariably the most industrious and useful citizens, settled themselves. During this period the number of churches and convents multiplied enor- mously. Cologne is said to have had as many steeples as there were days in the year ; there are still 20 churches here.' Before the French revolution, the number of buildings devoted to re- ligious uses was 200 ; she is now con- tent with 29, but many of the buildings remain, applied to the secular purposes to which the French first turned them. 2500 of the inhab. wei'e ecclesiastics ; and, as a natural consequence, more than twice that number were beggars, who subsisted piincipally on the monks. The French revolution nowhere created a greater change than here ; the rich foundations were aU plundered, the convents secularised, the churches stripped, and converted into warehouses and stables. The transport of corn and Rhenish \vine down the Rhine, and into the neighbouring countiics of Holland, Belgium, and "\Ycstphalia, employs a 128 EOUTE 36. — COLOGNE. CATHEDRAL. Sect. 11. great many vessels and persons. There i ai-e considerable sugar refineries here. Of late years ti'ade has greatly re- ■, vived ; improvements have folloAved in- ' creasing prosperity, and under the Pi-us- ^ sian government the town is thro'^'ing off the dirty and gloomy appearance for which it was notorious. Many of the [ streets have been A\-idened and paved, j new streets and houses built, and old | ones repau'cd; and some of the tho- I roughfares boast of traffic and crowds [ like those of London. A large portion of the space enclosed within the walls, ' formerly the fields and gardens of con- { ventual houses, is rapidly becoming j covered with buildings. I One of the leading causes of the de- j cline of the prosperity of Cologne in the 16th cent, was the closing of the na- j vigation of the Rhine by the Dutch. | This restriction was removed in 1837, | pursuant to ti-eatj^, and Cologne now trades directly with the countries be- ; yond sea. Seagoing vessels are con- I structed here. A new quay with bonded j warehouses has been constructed just i below the bridge. Seagoing vessels lie | alongside. The yearly increasing pros- i perit)^, fostered by the continuance of ! peace, and augmented by the conver- ] gence to this point of the Eailroads from Paris, Antwerp, and Berlin, have \ caused Cologne again to raise her head high among the chief cities of Europe. This huge carcase of ruined buildings ; and vacant enclosures, revived by in- j creasing wealth, is swelling o\it into its \ former proportions, and flouiishing both I in population and industry. ^ The objects of interest in Cologne i being spread over a wide space, the fol- lowing plan for seeing them in succes- i sion, without retiacing his steps, may ' be useful to the stranger : — Begin with the Cathedi-al : close to it is the Musexim ; thence by the Jesuits' Church (a gorgeous combination of Gothic and Italian architecture) to St. Ursula (the curious in architecture shoiild visit St. Cvmibert's) ; from St. Ursula to St. Gereon ; pass the Eoman (.') Tower to the Apostles' Chm-ch ; to St. Peter's, St. Mary's in the Capitol, the Giirzenich, and the Eathhaus, which completes the circuit. The Cathedral (DomMi'che), though begun in 1248, by Archbp. Conrad of Hochsteden, has remained up to the present time a fragment, and had very nearly become a ruin. The choir was consecrated in 1322 : but in 1509 a stop was put to its fuilher progress. Had the original plan been completed (views of the intended edifice are to be pro- cured), it would have been the St. Peter's of Gothic architecture. Even in its present state, it is one of the finest and pmest Gothic monuments in Eu- rope. It is to be regretted that the name of the great architect who de- signed so splendid a structure has been lost : one Master Gerhard, who was living 1252, is the bmlder earliest named, but nothing is knoim of him. The 2 principal towers, according to the original designs, were to have been raised to the height of 500 ft. That which is most finished at present is not above one-third of the height. On its top stni remains the crane employed by the masons to raise the stones for the building. And it has stood for cen- turies. It was once taken do"\vn ; but a tremendous thimder-storm, which oc- curred soon after, was attributed to its removal by the superstitious citizens, and it was therefore instantly replaced, or a similar one set up in its stead. Its permanent presence there may have indicated that the idea of completing this noble structure was not abandoned; and untU. recently (1849), its comple- tion appeared probable even in the present generation. From 1824 to 1842, 215,000 thalers had been laid out on the building by the late and present Kings of Prussia. All this, howcA-er, was expended merely in repairs rendered indispensable by long ages of neglect. This restoration has been conducted in a masterly manner, the faulty stone from the Drachenfels, on the exterior, replaced by another of a soimder texture, and the workman- ship in the new sculpture and masonry is at least equal to the old. The stone used is no longer that of the Drachen- fels, but is brought from Andemach and Treves, and is of volcanic origin. A fresh impulse was given to the works on the accession of the present Rhenish Prussia, route 36. — cologne, cathedral. 129 Klag, vho contributed more lai-gely to its funds, and on 4th Sept. 184:2 laid the fovmdation stone of the transept. An Association also, called Dom-bau Yerein, has been established, with branches in all parts of Eiurope, to col- lect subscriptions for completing the edifice accortUng to the original design. The result has been nearly a million dollars paid bet'vreen 1842 and 51. The architect, Zwimer, estimates the cost of finishing it at 2,000,000 dollars for the nave, transepts, »S:c., and 3,000,000 doll, for the towers and fa- cade ; in all 750,000/. In Sept. 1848, the nave, aisles, and transepts were throAvn open ; a temporary wooden roof coveiing in the nave and transept just above the triforium. The tran- septs are now nearly completed, and the 2 portals, especially that on the S. side, are very fine. The piers which are to support the real roof ai-e making progress. It is possible, therefore, now to judge of the full extent of the interior. The late King of Bavaria presented 5 painted windows, which have been placed in the S. aisle of the nave. The 5 painted windows in the X. aisle were executed in 1508 : the 4th from the W. entrance is the best. The entire length of the body of the church will be 511 ft., equal to the height of the Towers when finished ; the breadth, 231 ft., corresponds with the height of the gable at the W. end. "The Choir is 161 ft. high, and internally, from its size, height, and disposition of pillars, arches, chapels, and beautifully coloured windows, re- sembling a splendid ^-ision. Exter- nally, its double range of stupendous flying buttresses, and intervening piers, bristling with a forest of purfied pin- nacles, sti'ike the beholder with awe and astonishment. If completed, this would be at once the most regular and most stupendous Gothic monimient existing." — Hope. The fine stained windows of the choir (14th cent.) have been thoroughly cleaned and repaired : and some concealed frescoes brought to light on the walls have caused them to be decorated afi'csh by Steinle and artists of the Diisseldorf school. Round the choir, against the columns, stand 14 [ colossal statues of the 12 Apostles, the Virgin, and Savioiu% gaudily coloured and gilt, sculptmed in the beginning of the 14th cent. Of the same date are the finely carved stalls and seats of the choir. In a small chapel immediately behind the high altar is the celebrated Shrine of the Three Kings of Cologne, or Magi, who came from the East ^\-ith presents for the infant Saviom-. Their bones were c-aixied ofi" from S. Eustorgio at Milan by the Emp. Frederic Barbarossa, when he took that city by stoim (1162), and were presented by him to Eainaldo Archbp. of Cologne, who had accom- panied him on his warlike expedition. — X. Italy Hdbk. 166. The case in which they are deposited is of plates of silver gilt, and emiously wrought, surrounded by smaU arcades, supported on pillars, enclosing figures of the Apostles and Prophets. The vast treasures which once decorated it were sadly diminished at the time of the French revolution, j when the shrine and its contents were I transported for safety by the chapter to ' Amsberg, in "Westphalia. Many of the ! jewels were sold to maintain the persons who accompanied it, and have been re- placed by paste or glass imitations ; but the precious stones, the gems, cameos, and rich enamels which still remain, will give a fair notion of its riches and magnificence in its original state. The skulls of the three kings, inscribed with their names — Gaspar^ Melchior, and Balthazer — wiitten in rubies, are cx- ! hibited to view through an opening in ' the shrine, crowned Avith diadems (a I ghastly contrast), which were of gold, I and studded -n-ith real jewels, but are I now only silver gilt. Among the an- \ tiques still remaining are 2, of Leda, ; and Cupid and Psyche, very beautiful, i On the front of the shrine are these 2 ! monkish leonine lines, asserting the ' possession of the entire royal remains, ' against all rival proprietors of relics : — Corpora sanctorum reeiibant hie tenia Mago- rum, Ex his sublatum nihil est, alibive locatum. Those who show the tomb assert that its treasures are still worth 6 millions of francs = 240,000/, : this is an exag- geration, no doubt. 130 EOUTE 36. — COLOGNE. ST. PETEE's. Sect. II. This shrine is opened to the public gaze on Sundays and festivals; but those vrh.0 desii'e to see it at other times, or to have a nearer and more minute xie'w of it, must apply to the sacristan, and pay a fee of 1^ th., which admits a party to see it and the sacristy. Tickets at 15 S. gr. each are taken from the Suisse, or bedel, in red, to see the choir, Dombild, and altars : 20 S. gr. are paid for ascending to the galleries inside and out. Under a slab in the pavement, be- tween the high altar and the shrine of the three kings, the heo.H of Manj of Medicis is buried. In the adjoining side chapels aroimd the choir are se- veral monuments of Archbishops of Cologne ; the most remarkable are those of Com-ad of Hochstcden (its foimder), of bronze (1261), and that of Philip of Heinsberg (1191), surrounded by a mm-al parapet, to signify that he built the walls of Cologne. In the side chapel of St. Agnes, on the right of the Magi, is a very ancient painting, in distemper, called the Doni- hilcl (the Cathedral pictm^e), bearing the date 1410. It represents the Patron Saints of the city of Cologne, viz. — in the centre, the Adoration of the Magi, or the Three Kings ; on the one side, St. Ursula and the 11,000 Yii-gins ; on the other, St. Gereon with the Theban Legion. It is a masterly production for so early a period. The artist is not knoAvn, but is conjectured to be Stephen of Cologne, a pupil of Master William of Cologne, mentioned in the Limburg Chronicle as the bestpainter in Gennany . In the Sacristij are many relics of Saints, including a bone of St. Mat- thew ; St. Engelberf s shiine of silver, ornamented with reliefs of good work- manship, date 1635; some chiuxh plate, and the like curiosities — among them the Sword of Justice, with a finely chased scabbard, borne by the Electors of Co- logne at the coronation of the Emperor; 1 elaborate carvings in ivorj- ; the State Cross of the .ii'chbishop"^, 7 ft. high, ornamented with enamel ; and a Pax of solid gold, 5 in. by 4, It is weU worth while to climb up to the triforium gallery to appreciate the grandeur of the edifice, and to I examine the painted glass ; or even to j moimt to the roof for the sake of the view of the to^Ti, and of the exterior ! of the edifice. Xo one should omit like- ' wise to visit the workshops (BauhUtten), i to inspect the sculptured capitals, bosses, &c. prepared for the new build- ings : 20 S. gr. entrance. The best description of the Dom is that by Binzer. There is an excellent view of the Dom as intended to be com- pleted, from Zwimer's design, pub- lished by Elsen. The Church of St. Peter contains the famous altar-piece of the Crucifixion of that Saint, with his head downwards, by EcBEXS, who presented it to this church, in which he was baptized. The picture usually exposed to view is a copy made when the original was car- ried to Paris ; but for a fee of 15 S. gi*. (for a party), the sacristan will turn the picture round, and display the ori- ginal at the back of the copy. On Sundays and festivals the original is j turned outwards. " It was painted a j little time before Rubens's death. The body and head of the Saint are the only good parts in this picture, which is finely coloured (broad light and shade), and weU dra-ttii ; but the figure bends too suddenly from the thighs, which are ill dra^^-n, or rather in a bad taste of drawing ; as is likewise his arm, which has a short interrupted outline. The action of the malefactors (execu- tioners) has not that energy which he usually gave to his fig-ures. Piubens, in his letters to Gildorp, expresses his own approbation of this pictiu-e, which he says was the best he ever painted : he likewise expresses his content and happiness in the subject, as being pic- tiiresque ; this is likewise natural to such a mind as that of Rubens, who was, perhaps, too much looking about him for the picturesque or something uncommon. A man with his head downwards is certainly a more extra- ordinary object than in its natural place. Many parts of this picture are so feebly di'awn, and with so tame a pencil, that I cannot help suspecting that Rubens died before he had com- pleted it, and that it was finished by some of his scholars." — Sir J. Beynolds, Rhenish Prussia. R. 36. — ST. URSULA. JESUITS, saxta maria. 131 "The composition is tlie best part of' this picture : the briaging of the figures ; together is most original and skilful, \ and presents the difficulty of a had sub- ! ject overcome. Still the painting, ex- cept in the left shoulder and breast of ' the Saint, is below the usual run of ; this great master ; though done indeed i -wdth great power, yet in the di-awing ' of the figures the indication of anatomy ! is far from good." — Wilh'e. The 3 ! painted E. -windows are fine, repre- I senting — 1 . Christ bearing his Cross ; 2. Crucifixion; 3. Descent from the ! Cross. They were executed 1528- I 1530. I The brazen font in which Paibens was baptized still exists in this church, j The Ch. of St. Ursula, and of the 11,000 Virgi)is (built partly in the 12th, ! partly in the 14th and' 15th cent), j is too singular a sight not to be visited, j It is situated just -^^-ithra the walls, and ; is not remarkable in its architecture, ' but is filled -with the bones of St. Ur- I sula's companions. That saintly lady ■ (according to the legend, a princess of ' Brittany or Armorica) set sail with her : virgin train from Brittany for Rome, I and sailed up the Rhine to Bale, whence ; she proceeded to Rome, on her return \ from which place the whole party was slaughtered at Cologne by the barbarian Huns, because they refused to break their vows of chastity. (See p. 35, and the Cologne version of the story, fir there are many versions, in Mrs. Jameson's Sacred and Legendary Art, vol. ii. p. 115.) On entering the church these hideous relics meet the eye, beneath, above, aroimd : they are biiilt into the walls, birried imder the pave- ment, and displayed in gaimt array in glass cases about the choii'. The Saint herseK reposes in a coffin behind the altar, while the skulls of a select few of her associates are admitted to the Golden Chamber, encased in silver, along with a mimber of other relics, such as one of the stone vessels which held the water that was turned into ^rinc at the Maniage in Cana, &c. A bad picture in the church represents the landing of this female army of Saints at Cologne. Some, who have been staggered at the number of Ursula's maiden train, have supposed that the legend arose fi-om confoimding the name of one of her attendants, UndecimUla, with the niun- ber imdecim millia (11,000). But it is hardly worth while to tr\' to reduce the childish tales of the monks to the limits of probability, more especially as in the cyclical revolution of opinions they have again found admirers. The chm-ch contains a curious series of old German pictiu'es of the Apostles painted on slate,, 1224. The Cliurch of the Jesuits (Maria Himmelfahrt) dates from 1836, and, like others erected by the order, is over- loaded with gorgeous decorations of marble, sculptiu-e, ifcc. It contains the crozier of St. Francis Xa^vier, and the rosary of St. Ignatius Loyola. Its bells were cast out of the cannon taken at Magdebirrg by Tilly, and presented by him to this church. Travellers interested in architecture vnR find in Cologne many excellent examples of the round style, with some specimens of the ti'ansition style from the round to the pointed. Romanesque has been adopted as a general term to dencte the round style ; Lombard, Xor- man, and Saxon, when speaking of it as varied in the coimtries to which those names refer. " The east ends of these [Romanesque] churches look like those of the Greeks, or the mosques of Constantinople." — Hope. The archi- tects who designed these earliest churches at Cologne, and many similar along the Rhine, had e-s-idently studied the Lombard churches of Pavia, which became familiar to the inhabitants of the banks of the Rhine by the residence of the Carlovingian Emperors in that capital of their Italian dominions. The architectm-al traveller wiU ^-isit Sta. Maria in Capitolio, the Ch. of the Apostles, St. Gereon, St. Martin, St. Cunibert, and St. Pantaleon. Santa Maria in Capitolio, so called from its occupying the site of the capitol of the Roman city, stands on a height sirrmoimted by a 'flight of steps. The Prankish kings had a palace here, to which, in 696, Plectrudis, the wife of Pepin of Heristal, retired, having sepa- rated from her husband on accoimt of his attachment to .-Upais, the mother of H 3 132 ROUTE 36. — COLOGNE. THE APOSTLEs'. ST. GEREOn's. Sect. II. Charles Martel. She, in 700, removed the capitol, and built a church and a nunnery on its site. It has been con- tended that the existing church is nearly entirely of that period. It is more pro- bable that the greater part at least was built about 1000. Observe the upper circuit of the choir, both inside and outside. Inside, the coupled columns, with their rich arabesque capitals, are in the style of the 11th or 12th cent. ; outside, the wall is crowned by a row of arches on small pillars. The transepts are in an older and plainer style. The lower windows of the choir have been filled with tracery of the latest period of the pointed style. The pointed vaulting of the nave is appa- rently a restoration of the latter part of the 14th cent. " Externally, in the same style vrith. the Ch. of the Apostles ; internally resembling a Greek church still more, and, in fact, a counterpart of one existing among the ruins of Seleucia, since round its semicircular absides and east end run internally semicu'cular rows of columns support- ing roimd arches." — Hope. The effigy of Plecti-udis, a very early work (10th cent.), is let into the wall outside of the choir. The doors of the X. transept, carved with scriptural subjects in relief, executed at the end of the 12th cent, at the latest, are very curious (compare the doors at Hildesheim). The walls of the Hardenrath chapel are covered with paintings by an old German master (1466) ; and the windows have some good stained glass. That of the Schwarz family, with groined vaulting, contains the brass /o>i^ (1594), siuTnotmted by a figure of St. Martin on horseback. A pictm-e atti-ibuted to Albert Diirer is shown here, but is certainly not by him. The walls of the crj^t, now a salt depot, are covered with ancient paint- ings nearly efiaced. The tower was built after 1637, when the old one fell. The convent has disappeared. A clois- ter of the 10th cent, remains and has been restored. The Apostle^ Church., in the Neu- markt, was begun in 1020, and finished in 1035. It sufi'ered from fire in 1098 and 1199, and M'as partly rebuilt in the beginning of the 13th cent. It has a double transept. To the earlier build- ing belong the choir, the eastern tran- sept and octagonal cupola, the 2 small towers, the lower part of the nave, and the great tower. The western transept and upper part of the nave are the parts rebuilt in the 13th cent. The vaulting of the nave, which had become ruinous, has been lately restored in wood, after the old pattern. This church has " 3 absides, or ^ circular cupolas, with slim octagonal steeples betM-een them, rising xmdiminished to the top, from the transepts and the choir. Their common centre is cro"^-ned by an octagonal cupola, which, as well as the 3 absides, is belted, imme- diately under the comice, by galleries of small arches, on small columns, coupled in the depth of the arch, rest- ing on a panelled balustrade, such as is displayed by all the other churches here and on the Ehine of the same period, and covered with a low ribbed roof of lead, so as to present a striking resem- blance to some of the oldest Greek churches in some of the remotest parts of Asia Minor ; and at the same time in its proportions as airy and elegant, and calculated to magnify its apparent size, as the heavy, cliimsy, English- Saxon roof often does the contrary."— ^ope. St. Gercoris Kirche, another ossuary, since it is lined with the bones of the Theban Legion of 6000 martyrs, slain, according to the legend told here, either on this spot or at Xanten (see p. 118), during the persecution of Diocletian, is one of the finest and most ancient churches in Cologne. The decagonal portion dates from 1212 ; the rest of the church, including the choir and the crypt, was bxiilt 1066-69. The earlier biiilding is in the round style, except where some repairs were executed, as is thought, after a stonn in 1434 ; the latter shows a preponderating mixture of the pointed. *' By a singular and theatrical arrangement, arising out of these various increments, its body pre- sents a vast decagonal shell and cupola, the pillars of whose internal angles are prolonged in ribs, which, centering in a summit, meet in one point, and lead by a high and wide flight of steps, ris- ing opposite the entrance, to an altar Rhenish Prussia. route 36. — churches, the museum. and oblong clioir beliind it; whence otlier steps again ascend to the area between the 2 high square towers, and to the ^ circular east end, belted as well as the cupola by galleries with small arches and pillars, on a panelled balus- trade, in the style of the Ch. of the Apostles. The entrance-door, with square lintel, low pediment, and pointed arch, is elegant ; and the cr\T)ts (well worth \-isiting) show some remains of handsome mosaics." — Hope. The bap- tistery is a very elegant building, in the transition style of the decagonal churchy It contains a font of porphyry, said to be a gift of Charlemagne. The sacristy, in the pointed style, is apparently of the 14th cent. It contains some painted glass. Gross St. IfartiHy on the Bhine, was dedicated 1172, but its lofty tower was not added tmtil the beginning of the 16th. cent. Its site, originally an island in the Rhine, ^-as occupied by an earher church, which, in 98iJ, Bishop "Warin gave to the Scotch Benedictines. The interior was modernised in 1790. In the chiux;h is an octagonal font of white marble, a Roman work of the time of the Empire, and having apparently been a labrum of a bath. " St. Martin like- wise shows, internally, the Greek distri- bution." — Hope. Xear St. Gereon's is the Arresthaus^ or new prison, built on the radiating panopticon plan. St. Cunibert, finished in 1248, the year the Dom was begim, but in a style totally difierent from it, is a re- markable instance of the adherence to the older style after the pointed style had become prevalent and perfect. The largest tower was burnt in 1376, and rebuilt in 1388, in the pointed style. It fclldo-v^-n in 1830, while undergoing repairs, and destroyed the vaulting of the adjoining parts of the nave and transepts : these have been restored. It contains the oldest painted glass in the country, of most glowing hues, and has an elegant portal. St. Pa.7italeon, near the Bonn Rly., is in part the oldest Christian structiu-e in Cologne, since the lower part of the great tower, and the walls connected with it, are probably not later than 133 980. It was built by Archbishop Bruno, with the materials of the Roman bridge and Castle of Deutz. The greater part of the present eh. is of the year 1622. It is now the Evangelic Gar- rison church, and its tower supports a telegraph. St. Geo;ye, 1060-74. The vaulting is latex : the choir is higher than the nave : there is a crypt, and a baptistery of 1200. "^ ^ The Museum (Trankgasse, Xo. 7, close to the cathedral; admittance fee 10 S. gr. each person ; on Simdays and holidays it is open free from 10 to 12^) is chiefly occupied with works of art bequeathed by Prof. "WallraiF to his native city, consisting of early specimens of the School of Cologne,* which, however, are unnamed and imcatalogued. Among the more remarkable are — the Last Judgment, by Master Stejjhan (1410) (the angels are painted of the brightest ulti*a-mai-ine by this master and others of the same school) ; the Death of the Virgin, by Schoreel; and a Ik>scent from the Cross, by Israel von Mechcnen (1488) ; also a Virgin and Child, and several others, by Master William of Cologne (1380). These pictures deserve attention as monuments of a school whose veiy existence was almost unknown till the present eentv We are now aware that, nearly simultaneously with the revival of painting in Italy, there sprang up a race of artists on the banks of the Rhine, and in the Netherlands, who succeeded in raising art fi-om the de-> gradation into which it had fallen in the hands of the Byzantine painters, to a comparative state of excellence ; and maintained that peculiar style which is seen in the greatest perfection in the works of Van Eyr stances are obtained on the spot, from materials found in contact with the alum clay. The sulphuric acid is foi-mcd * The Post-road quits Bonn tlirough an archway under the Electoral Palace. Bh -R. 37. THE EHIXE (c). GODESBERG 143 by the action of air and moisture upon ' iron pyrites (sulphuret of iron), previ- ously gently roasted, and the potash from the ashes of the brown coal used as fuel in evaporating and crystallising \ the alimi salt." — JI. " The same mine fuiTiishes a fine potter's clay, which is used in making the conical moulds em- , ployed in refining beet -root sugar, which is extensively manufactured here- j abouts." — P. [ At Putzburg, near Friesdorf, gigantic trunks of trees, sometimes 10 or 12 ft. in diameter, occiu' embedded in the ; strata. The earthy brown coal worked here affords the valuable pigment known by the name of bm-nt umber, or Co- logne earth. 1. Plittersdorf village. Here the steamer stops for passengers to or from Godesberg, 1 m. distant from the , Rhine, and 5 from Bonn. Here is a , ferry to Xieder-Dollendorf (fare, IS. Godesberg. Inns: Blinzler's Hotel : — Hotel Bellevue ; both very good. " The Bellevue was built as a Kiirsaal j by the last Elector of Cologne, who projected making Godesberg a watering- jjlace, but was prevented by the French ' Eevolution. Table-d'hote, 15 S. gr., in private 1 th. ; table wine (Ober- j Mosler), 15 S. gr. ; breakfast and tea, | 10 S. gr. ; bed, 15 S. gr." — P. Visitors i may board at 5 frs. a day, exclusive of , wine. Donkeys ply near the hotel, to j convey persons up to the castle, or for , other excui-sions in the neighbourhood. Godesberg, a village of 1000 Inhab., , on the high road, is, on account of its situation, near the Ehine, an agreeable ; summer residence. Xear it is a mineral spring, called Draitscher Briuinen, where there are baths, 10 S. gr. each. Numerous paths wind round the hill to the ancient Castle Keep on its top. It was built by the warlike Archbishops of Cologne, 1212, on the site of a Eoman fort, and served them long as a stronghold, till the Bavarians took it and blew it up, 1583, because it held out for the Pro- testant Archbp. GebhardTruchsess. The cylindrical Donjon tower (100 ft. high, built 1340) commands a beautiful pros- pect over the Rhine. The key is kept at the well below. The interior of the castle is now the village church- yard. Godesberg, 1^ m. distant from the Rhine, is a convenient point for making excui'sions to — 1. The volcanic hill of Roderberg. 2. The Seven Mountains. The neai'est way to them is to cross the Rhine by the ferry-boat to Konigs^vin- ter, at the foot of the Drachenfels. This excursion may be lengthened profitably, by ascending the 1. bank of the Rhine as far as Rolandseck (p. 145), and, after exploring its ruined castle, crossing in a boat to Xonnenwerth and then di'op- ping down the river to Konigswinter. The exciu'sion will not take up more than a day, and is decidedly a very in- teresting one. 3. The short tour up the vaUey of the Ahr (Rte. 39). 4. "A visit to the abbey of Heisterbach may be combined with the tour of the Seven Mountains, but is better made sepa- rately, crossing the Rhine by the feiiy fi-om Plittersdorf (1.) to Xieder-Dollen- dorf. About 2 m. inland S.E. from this lie the ruins of the Cistercian Abbey of Heisterbach. A caniage-road leads to it. The pedesti-ian, after passing Ober- Dollendorf, will proceed by a wooded path into the Petersthal, a secluded valley at the base of the Petersberg, one of the Seven Mountains, in which the Abbey lies. A fragment — the apse of the choir — alone remains to attest its ancient magnificence. It is a beautifril j specimen of the finest style of the tran- , sition fi'om the round to the pointed ; styles — begim in 1202, finished 1233. , The biiilcUng was sold for the mere value of the materials by the French in ; 1806, and the greater part was puUed j down and removed to foini the for- , tifications of 'W^'esel. The beautiful ; fr-agment which stiU exists is carefully preserved fi-om ftuther decay by the I Coimt zur Lippe-Biesterfeld, its present , o-«-ner, and well deserves the stranger's j attention. 1 rt. KOnigsxrinter {Inns: H. de I'Eu- ' rope, comfortable — Hotel de Berlin ; , both overlooking the Rhine), a village 1 of 1500 Inhab., at the foot of the Dra- chenfels, which is most conveniently I ascended from this in GO min. Asses i for the ascent of the mountain cost 10 1 S. gr. ; to Heisterbach, 2i m., 20 S. gi'. 144 ROUTE 37. THE RHINE (c). SEVEN MOUNTAINS. Sect. II. Boats to Nonnen-wertli and back, 20 S. gr. ; to Bonn, 15 S. gr. rt. The Seven Mountains (Sieben- gebii-ge) . This gTonp of hills, in reality more than 7 in niinibGr, forms a grand commencement to the beautiful sceneiy of the Ehine. They are the highest and wildest on its banks, entirely of volcanic origin, and consist of lava, ti-achyte, and basalt, ejected thi'ough the rocks, "which form the basement of the sun'oimding coimtry, by subterra- neous erui:)tions which took place pre- vious to the existence of any human re- cord or tradition. The names and heights of the 7 principal summits (for there are many minor heights) are as follovv's : — Stromberg, 1053 ft. ; Nie- dcrstromberg, 1066 ft. ; Oelberg, 1453 ft. (the highest) ; Wolkenberg, 1055 ft. ; Drachenfels, 1056 ft. ; Lowenberg, 1414 ft. (commanding a view considered by some superior to that from the Drachen- fels) ; and Hemmerich. They are al- most all crowned A^dth a chapel or the ruin of some ancient tower or hermit's cell, which adds much to theii" pictur- esque features. The trachyte rock of the Wolkenberg is quaiTied to a considerable extent as building stone. It aboxmds in the mi- neral called glassy felspar. The most interesting of the whole group, from its shape and position, but more than all from the verses of Byron, is the famed Drachenfels (Dragon Bock), whose precipices rise abruptly from the river side, crowned with a ruin. " The castled crag of Drachenfels Frowns o'er the wide and winding Rhine, Whose breast of waters broadly swells Between the banks which bear the vine; And hills all rich svith blossom'd trees, And fieMs which promise com and wine, And scatter'd cities crowning these. Whose far white walls along them shine. Have strew'd a scene which I should see With double joy wert thou with me. " And peasant girls with deep blue eyes. And hands which offer early flowers, Walk smiling o'er this paradise ; Above, the fiequent feudal towers Through green leaves lift their walls of gray, And many a rock which steeply lowers, And noble arch in proud decay. Look o'er this vale of vintage-bowers; Kut one thing want these banks of Rhine,— Thy gentle hand to clasp in mine! '< The river nobly foams and flows, The charm of this enchanted ground, And all its thousand turns disclose Some fresher beauty varying round : The haughtiest breast its wish might bound Through life to dwell delighted here ; Nor could on earth a spot be found To nature and to me so dear. Could thy dear eyes in following mine Still sweeten more these banks of Rhine 1" Byrox. The summit of the Drachenfels com- mands a noble view, and it may be reached in about half an hour from Konigswinter. In ascending it the tra- veller is sho-OTi the quany from which the stones were taken to build the ca- thedral of Cologne, called, in conse- quence, Dombruch, and the cave of the Dragon (from which the mountain was named) killed, as it is reported, by the homed Siegfried, the hero of the Nie- belungen Lay. jSTear the top is a toler- I able inn, where parties may dine, and j those who msh to enjoy the simriso from the smnmit find sleeping accom- modation. The ruined fragment on the top is of remote origin, and was once the seat of a noble race, long since ex- tinct, named after the motintain on which they dwelt. They were depen- dent upon the Ai'chbp. of Cologne as feu- dal superior, and seem to have chosen this situation for their castle from the facilities it afforded them for spjdng at a distance the merchant's laden boat or labouring waggon, and for sallying down to piUage or exact tribute. The View hence extends down the river as far as Cologne, 20 m. off; up- wards, the Rhine is shut in by rocks, which, however, are very grand, while Bonn and its University, T^-ith old castles, villages, and fann-houses almost beyond number, fill up the foreground of the landscape. The principal objects are the summits of the 7 mountains, Remagen and Apollinarisberg, the vol- canic chain of the Eifel behind, Ober- winter and the island Xonnenwerth, the ruined arch of Rolandseck, the ex- tinct crater of Eoderberg, and the don- jon of Godesberg. The ruins on several other summits of the Seven Moimtains are remams of castles of the Ai'chbishops of Cologne. In that which crowned the Loicenberg the reformers Melancthon and Bucer llhen. Pr R. 37. — THE EHINE (c). EOLA^'DSECK. 145 passed some time with the Ai'chbp. Her- [ man von "Wied, \rho aftenvai'ds adopted : the reformed faith ; and his successor, I the Protestant Ai-chbp. Gebhard Truch- ] sess, took refuge here, with his beauti- ' ful wife, Agnes von Mansfeldt, 1585. The Tiew from this summit extends back over part of the Westerwald and ; of "NVestphaiia. I 1. In the neighbourhood of Mehlem ! is the Roderherg^ one of the most inter- '. csting extinct volcanoes on the Ehine. : Its crater is circular, nearly j m. in i diameter, and 100 ft. deep. It is now ' covered -«-ith fields of com. The sides : are composed in many places of tufa , and scorise, exactly siroilar to those | found on Vesuvius. From this crater ; you may walk tkrough the gorge called Eliasschlueht to the ridge on which , stand the i-uined arch and tui-rets of (1.) I the Castle of Bolandseck, an admh-able point of view for surveying the Ehine. This ruin receives its name from a tra- dition that the famous nephew of Char- lemagne chose this spot because it com- manded a -^dew of the Convent of Xon- nenwerth, within whose walls his be- trothed bride had taken the veil upon hearing a false report of his having fallen at Eoncesvalles. He lived here a lonely hennit for many years, accord- ing to the story, which has fiurdshed the subject of one of Schiller's most beautiful ballads, '* The Knight of Tog- genbru'g." The scene, however, has been ti-ansfeiTed by Schiller from the Ehine to Switzerland, and the tale to the time of the Crusades. The castle is called, in the oldest records where it is mentioned, Eulcheseck, and the con- rent Eulcheswerth. The fonner was, at one time, a nest of robbers, whose depredations rendered them the teiTor of the vicinity. The bold and precipitous rock of Eolandseck, composed of prismatic basalt, with its scanty and mouldering baronial fortress and desolate arch, is a veiy striking object fi-om the river, and, taken together M'ith the Drachenfcls on the opposite bank, sers'cs as a fit portal to the grand scenery which lies above it. It projects so far for«-ard, that the high road has barely room to pass be- tween ite foot and the brink of the Ehine. There are 2 ions near the foot of the rock of Eolandseck. Exactly opposite, and in the middle of the sti-eam, is the island of Xonnemrerth (Xun's island), so called fi-om the large building upon it, embowered in trees, an Ursuline nunnery, built 1673, on the site of that which was once the asylum of the bride of the unfortrmate Eoland. The amiable intercession of Josephine with Xapoleon, on behalf of the nuns, is said to have preserved to them the possession of their ancient retreat, at the time when the other re- ligious establishments on the Ehine v>-ere secularised by the French. It was for some time converted into an inn, but still remains in the condition in which it was left by its former inmates, and was about to be again converted into a nimnery, when the troubles of 1848 interi-upted the plan, 1. Oberwinter, a Aillage thi'ough which the road passes. The greater part of the road from Eolandseck to Eemagen may be said to be literally quanied in the rock. It was begim by the Bavarians, continued by the French, and completed by the Prussians. The Eomans, however, have the credit of laying the founda- tions of this noble highway, as was proved by remains turned up by the modem road-makers, such as coffins, coins, and a Eoman milestone, the in- scription of which proved, that under Marcus Aurelius and Lucius Yems, A.D. 161-180, a road had been already formed here. 1. Opposite the village of Unkel is the ITnkclstein, a hill composed of ba- saltic colimins, resembling those of the Giant's Causeway. They are foimd both in a hoiizontal and vertical posi- tion, and extend far into the bed of the Ehine, where they formed an obstacle to the passage of timber-rafts, until the rock was blo^vn up by the French. As it is, the cun-ent of the Ehine sweeps with great force past the Unkelstein. The basalt afibrds the best material for roads and pavements, on which account it is extensively quan-icd. In 184-6 a landslip in the basalt lifted up the high- road 40 ft. above its former level. 1. Apollinarisberg, a wooded height 146 ROUTE 37. — THE EHI^^E (c). REMAGEX. LINZ. Sect. 11. interest the traveller, except tlie Eo- manesque Gateusay^ part of the Palace of the Frankish kings, now leading to the Pfarrhof, close to the chui-ch, on which are sculptured the signs of the zodiac, executed prohably at the end of the 11th cent, (these signis are seen on the portals of the Lomhard churches in Italy) : it may he seen while the horses are changing. During the construc- tion of the high road many Pioman antiquities were dug up here. A most interesting excursion may he made hence hy the AJcr valley (Rte. 39). Landing here fi-om the steamer, hire a caiTiage with post-horses at the post, sleep at Altenahr, and return next morning with the same horses. The cost is about 7^ thalers for can-iage and 3 horses, including driver, with an extra charge for horse-keep of 1 thaler at Altenahi'. rt. A little beyond Remagen, on the opposite bank, rise the basaltic preci- pices, 700 ft. high, called Erpeler Lei. The ingenuity of man has converted these barren rocks, which are almost inaccessible, into a productive vine^ yard. The vines are planted in baskets filled with mould, and inserted in cre- vices of the basalt. By this means alone can the earth be preseiwed from being washed away by every shower. rt. The blackened walls of the ruined castle of Ockenfels. And a little further named after a Saint, whose head is pre- served here. It is surmounted by a beautiful Gothic Church, built fi'om de- signs of Zwimer (the restorer of the Dom of Cologne), by Baron Fiirsten- berg of Stammheim ; it is lighted, ex- cept in the choir, by circular windows, and decorated internally with frescoes. These, as some of the latest and most lauded of the works of the Gei-man fresco-painters, are well worth the tra- veller's attention, and especially of all English artists. The subjects and ai'tists are as follows : — Entering by the W. door : on the 1. are scenes from the life of Christ, by Beyer. In the X. transept, St. ApoUinai'is destropng, through prayer, the statue of Jupiter in the presence of the Roman Empr., by A. Muller. Figures of Saints, by Ittenhach. The Cmcifixion, and, be- neath, the Passion of Chiist, by Beyer. Justice, Prudence, Fortitude, and Tem- perance, by Ittenhach. Martyrdom of St. ApoUinaris, by A. Muller. In the choir : on the 1. the Restin-cction of Christ, by Beyer. Noli me tangere, and Delivery of the Keys to Peter, by Ittenhach. On the arch of the apse, the Adoration of the Lamb, and the Sacra- ments, by C. Mailer. In the apse, Christ among the Saints of the old and new Covenant, by Beyer. On the rt. of the choir, the Coronation of the Yu'gin, by C. Muller. In the S. transept, the episcopal ordination of St. ApoUinaris, by A. Muller. SS. Theo- dore, Sophia, Francis of Assisi, and Y. Paula, patrons of the founder and his family, by Ittenhach. Annunciation, Maniage, and Visitation of the Virgin (close to the window), by C. Muller. Faith, Love, Hope, and Humility, by Ittenhach. St. ApoUinaris raises the daughter of the Governor of Ravenna, by A. Muller. On the rt. on entering by the W. door, Scenes from the Le- gends of the Virgin, by Ittenhach. There is a very good distant view of the 7 mountains from the Apollinarisberg. At the foot of the hiU Ues 1. 2~ Remagen (Lois : Konig von Preussen ; Preussischer Hof, the best between Andemach and Bonn), the Eigomagus of the Romans, a town of 1400 Inhab. It has nothing to on IS rt. Linz ( Inns : Nassauer Hof ; Rheinischer Hof, on the bank of the river), an ancient fortified to^-n, partly surrounded by waUs of basalt ; it has 2200 Inhab. An Archbp. of Cologne, in 1365, built the tower, stiU standing, near the Rhine gate, to enforce the pay- ment of tolls on the river, and to defend the place from the Bvirghcrs of Ander- nach, who were engaged in almost per- petual feuds with him and the tOA^Tis- people of Linz. The Ffarrkircfie, on the height behind, commands a fine view ; it contains some curious monu- ments of the noble famUies of the neighbourhood, and 2 ancient pictures, each of 7 compartments, probably of the school of Cologne, bearing the date 1463 ; unfortimately almost destroyed. A cross 40 ft. high has been placed on FJien. Pi russia. ROUTE 37. THE EHINE (c). SINZIG. BROHL. 14^ the top of the Hummelsberg, a hill be- hind Liiiz, as a memorial of the Battle of Leipzig. 1. The river Ahr issues into the Ehine opposite Linz. As its mouth is passed, the black conical simimit of the Landski'one is seen up the Ahr valley. 1. \\ Sinzig [Zii/is : Stem; Krone), about 1^ m. from the Ehine, but tra- versed by the high road, "o-as the Sentia- cum of the Romans. The Parish Church is an interesting building, of the time of the transition from the round to the pointed style, dating probably from the beginning of the 1 3th cent. The deco- ration of the W. front, and of the -ends of the transepts, resemble, on a smaller scale, those of the ch. at Xeuss. The ti'ansition style is seen in the polygonal foi-m of the choir, with a gable over each side. The interior resembles the ch. at Andemach, in having both pointed and cii'cular arches, and over each aisle a gallery, called here the Mannhaus. According to an obscure tradition, near- this spot the Cross appeared in the sky to Constantine, on his march to attack Maxentius. There is a nide painting representing this event in the chui'ch ; and in an adjoining chapel a natiu-al mirmniy, called the Holy Vogt, canied to Paris by the French. rt. The gable-fronted chateau of Ar- genfels or Ahrenfels, the Stammhaus, or cradle of the family von der Leyen, is seen in the distance behind the an- cient village of Honningen. 1. The \i.llage of Niederbreisig, and, fiu-ther from the river, Oberbrcisig, vnXh a curious ch. of the 1-ith cent. 1. The Castle of Ehcincck, consisting of an ancient Avatch-to-sver and a mo- dem castellated residence adjoining, built, at a lavish expense, by Lassaulx, for Profr. Bethman-Hollweg, of Bonn. The architectmal taste displayed in this edifice is very questionable ; but it contains some modem pictiu-es, and in its chapel are frescoes of the Beatitudes by Steinle. It is shown to strangers ■when the owner is absent. Its garden commands a fine \icw. 1. Brohl, a small village (Nonn's Inn, tolerable), at the mouth of the stream and valley of the Brohl. It possesses a paper-mill, in which is a [b. & P.] collection of Dutch pictures, and several others moved by the streams of the Brohl-Bach for grinding tuif-stone into trass (Dutch tiras — i. e. cement) ; and there are very singular cave-like quar- ries of tuff-stone about a mile up the sti-eam. From the resemblance of this rock to the tufa forme^i at the present day by Etna, Yesmius, and other ac- tive volcanoes, geologists conjectirre that the tufa of Brohl has been formed either by a toiTent of volcanic mud discharged fi-om some extinct crater into the valley, or by showers of pu- mice and ashes, thrown up by one of the volcanoes of the Eifel, falling into a lake, mixing with the mud at the bottom of it, and now consolidated into a soft stone. This, when quanied and ground into powder, is called trass, and from its possessing the valuable pro- perty of hardening imder water is in great request as a cement. Large quantities are exported from this to distant countries, especially into Hol- land, where it is employed in the con- struction of the dykes ; it resembles the puzzolana of Naples, and the imi- tation of it, Eoman cement. The an-, cients made use of this kind of stone for coffins; and from its property of absorbing the moisture of the dead body, gave them the name of sarcophagi, i. e. flesh consimiers. Votive tablets, bearing Eoman inscriptions, have 'ac- tually been discovered in the quxiiries, proving at how early a period they were worked. Trunks of trees reduced to the condition of charcoal, and even land-shells of various species, are em- bedded in the substance of the rock. The mineral sj)ring called Tonnis- stein lies 4^ m. up the valley. (See E. 40, p. 178). [The pleasant excursion to the Lake of Laach, described in Etc. 40, may be made from Brohl. The travelling car- riage should be sent on to Andernach, and there rejoined. This excm-sion may be made in one long day.] rt. On the summit of a bold, black, precipitous rock, opposite to an island in the river, stand the broken walls of Hammerstein castle, built in the 10th cent., the refuge in 1105 of the Emperor Heniy IV., Avhen persecuted 1 148 ROUTE 37. — THE RHKE (c). ANDER^'ACH. Sect. II. "by his son. It w^as besieged by the Swedes in the 30 years' war, and de- stroyed by the Archbp. of Cologne in 1660. The small old chmch within it is interesting. 1. Xamedy has a pretty church. 2~ (1.) Andernach {Inn : Zur LiKe, good, but no view), one of the oldest cities on the Ehine, 3000 Inhab. It was called by the Romans Antonacum, and originated in one of Drusus' camps pitched on the spot. Most of the pre- sent fortifications date from 1577-83. The picturesque telescope Watch-toirer, at the lower end of the town, by the water-side, round below, and eight- sided above (date 1520), and the Crane, a little lower dovm the sti-eam, built 1554, add to its air of picturesque an- tiquity. There are 2 articles of traffic pe- culiar to this spot : millstones obtained from veiy singular quamesnearXieder- Mendig, and exported to England, Hussia, the East and West Indies, and to other remote parts of the world. They were used by the Romans, and have been foimd among Roman ruins in England, and are spoken of as Rhe- nish millstones by Latin authors. The stone is a species of basaltic lava which separates into colimins, and is used as door-posts, window-sills, and side-posts at the comers of the sti'cets, &:c. (Rte. 40.) Another volcanic production is the trass, or cement, brought fi-om the neighbouring quarries of Brohl and Kruft. A species of pumice called Oven-stone, because, fr-om its resisting heat, it is used for lining ovens, is also obtained fi-om 14 quarries at Bell near Nieder-Mendig (p. 179). The Parish Ch. or Dom has 4 towers ; those at the W, end tall and much or- | namented; the greater part of it was built in the beginning of the 13th cent., { but the choir, the tower on its X. side, ■ and the lower part of that on its S. | side, belong probably to a preceding chiux-h of the 10th, which so far es- caped the destruction of Andernach by Philip of Hohenstaufen about 1200. A bas-relief over the S. door, the carv- ings of the capitals which support it, and the ornaments on the W. facade, are interesting specimens of scxdptin-e. The interior is supported upon 2 tiers of arches of neaiiy equal height ; behind the upper tier runs a spacious galleiy, intended for the male part of the congregation, and called the mdn- nerchor, or mannshaus ; the women sate below. It contains some cui-ious carv- ings, and a Roman tomb, en-oneously said to be of Valentinian II. The pul- pit once belonged to the abbey ch. at Laach. The Franciscan ch. 1414-63, now a stable, has only 2 aisles. Beneath the Rathhaus is a Jevs' Bath, of considerable antiquity (per- haps Roman). It has not been used since the Jews were expelled from the tOMTi, 1596; they have never since been allowed to settle here. The Coblenz Gate is an elegant Go- thic portal, not a Roman work, as is commonly reported. Adjoining it, on the rt. of the road, are the extensive ruins of the castellated Palace of the Ai'chbishops of Cologne, built about the end of the 15th cent. The Palace of the Austrasian kings stood either on this spot or close to the river, near an old gateway, which is possibly of Ro- man origin. A shoit distance off, on the rt. of the road, are the noble ruins of the Abbey of St. Thomas, a convent for ladies of rank, which was burnt in 1795. It is now turned into a very extensive tannery, and partly into an asylum for incurable hmatics. The architectvire of St. Michael's chapel, attached to it, is interesting : it was built in 1129. Excursions to the lake and abbey of Laach (Rte. 40) may be made in a carriage from hence, as a tolerable road leads thither through "Wassenach (6 m.), also to Sc/^oss Elz. At Andernach the mountains on both sides of the Rhine again approach the river, and form a majestic defile. rt. At the water's edge stands the ruined castle of Friedrichsstein, or the Te'ifelshaus, i. e. Devil's House; so called probably by the peasants, or serfs, who were compelled to build it by forced laboiu*. It was begun in the 17th cent, by a prince of Xeuwied, but never finished. rt. Just above the ^-illage of Inlich the small river Wicd issues out into Fihsii. Prussia, route 37. — xeuwied. weissenthurm. 149 the Ehine. A long avenue, partly of tail poplars, joins Iniich with the to^vn of rt. Xcao-ied [Inas: Ptheinischer Hof ; Anker ; Wilder Maim, 2nd class ; Caesar's Hotel, good), a neat and uni- form to\\Ti of straight streets, cross- ing each other at right angles (5200 Inhab.), the capital of the principal- ity of Wied, now mediatized, and attached to Prussia. It was founded only as far back as 1737 by a prince who invited colonists of all persua- sions, from all parts, to come and settle, Tvith a promise of perfect tolera- tion. The wisdom of such liberality has been proved by the Homishing con- dition of the industrious manufacturing town which has sprung up in conse- quence, and by the harmony in which Jews, Catholics, Protestants, and Herrn- huters live all together. The Palace (Residenz Schloss) of the prince, overlooking the Rhine, pos- sesses a collection of Eoman antiquities, discovered in this neighboiu'hood, and principally derived from the buried city of Victoria, near the village of Niederbiber, 2 m. N. of Neuwied. The objects brought to light comprise a bronze genius nearly 2 ft. high, ar- moiu-, helmets, weapons, a plough- share, locks and keys, tools of various trades, a sacrificial knife, pottery and coins in great abundance, tiles, hand-mills ; bones of deer, pigs, dogs, and a large quantity of oyster-shells ; proving that the ganison of a remote colony in the 3rd cent, sent all the way to the sea for the luxuries of the table. Many tiles have been found stamped with the names and nimibers of the legions quartered here. No coins have come to light of a later date than the time of Valentinian the elder, who died a.d. 375, which fixes the date of the destruction of Victoria with an approach to precision. The remains of the city from which these curiosities were derived have long since been covered up, and crops of com and grass again wave above its site. In tlie building called the Phca- santiy (Fasanerie Gebaude) is the Mu- ■semn of Natural Jlistor;/, principally remarkable for the collections made by Prince Maximilian of Xeu^\^ed dur- ing his travels in Brazil and North Amei'ica. The Colony of Moravian Brothers exceeds 400, v>'ho occxipy a distinct quarter of Xeuwied : their establish- ment, chm-ch, schools, and workshops are worth seeing. The park and gardens of the chateau of Monrepos, situated between the Wied and the Rhine, B m. N.N.E. fr'om Xeu- wied, form a pleasant excui-sion, and afford beautiful prospects. There is a flying bridge over the Rhine at Xeuwied. From Audeniach to Coblenz the banks of the Rhine are flat. (1.) Weissenthurm (White Tower), so called from the square watch-tower built by the electors of Treves to mark the frontier of their domain, is a small "S'illage (whose new church is decorated with modern fr-escoes), through which the road passes, a little above Xeuwied, on the opposite baiik. It is remark- able as the spot where the French crossed the Rhine in spite of the oppo- sition of the Austi-ians in 1797. On an eminence behind, to the rt. of the road, stands an Obelisk, erected to the memory of the French general Hoche, who achieved that memorable exploit by thi'owing a bridge across to the island in the middle of the river. The monument bears the simple inscription, " L'Ai'mee de Sambre et Meuse a son General Hoche.''' Bp-on says of it, "This is all, and as it shoiild be; Hoche was esteemed among the first of France's earlier generals, until Xapoleon mono- polised her triumphs. He was the destined commander of the invading army of Ireland." Caesar, when lead- ing his anny against the Sicambri, 17 centuries before, crossed the Rhine at the same spot, and has described the very curious bridge which he con- sti'ucted for the passage. (1.) Beyond Weissenthiu*m the road quits the side of the Rhine, and con- tinues out of sight of it till near to Coblenz. (rt.) Engers, a small Aollage, with an old-fashioned Chateau, built 1758 by the Elector of Treves, facing the river ; l2 150 ROUTE 37. THE EHIXE (c). MAECEAU. Sect. II. a short vraj above this tlie remains of a Roman bridge, biiilt B.C. 38, are dis- ; coverable in the bed of the river. (rt.) Miihlhofen, a village at the month of the river Sa}Ti. [A good road stiikes np the valley behind the village of Bendorf, and leads, in 3 m. from En- gers, and about 8 m. from Coblenz, to the village and modem Chateau of Sayn, belonging to the Count Boos, overlooked by the pictiu^esque ruins of the old castle of Sayn, destroyed in the 30 years' war, above which rises the romantic Renneberg. Not far off are the Royal Cannon Foundry and Iron Works (Sayner Hiitte), equal in extent to some of the most considerable iron- works in England : very pretty cast- iron ornaments, similar to the black ware of Berlin, are made here. At the village of Sayn is a suppressed Pree- monstrant abbey, fovmded 1202, with a church in the transition style, having a pointed arch, cupola, and a choir formed by 6 sides of an octagon, built 1400. At the upper extremity of the valley is the castle of the Counts of Isenburg, whence they used to sally forth and plunder the merchants upon the Rhine. The whole valley is beau- tifid ; the stream of the Sayn gives it verdure ; its woody sides afford a cool shelter even in summer, and are inter- sected with walks, and provided with seats and summer-houses. It is a favourite excursion of the people of Coblenz. N. of the valley, about 1| m. N. of Sayn, and as far N.E. of Engers, on the slope of a hill, stands the noble abbey Eommersdorf. The church was consecrated in 1210 ; the chapter- house and cloister were built between 1214-1236. The mouldings of the doors and arches, the quatrefoil open- ings and pointed arches of the cloister, sho^\' the approach of the pointed style. The abbey has become the property of a private individual, and is well pre- served.] (rt.) The walls and buildings of the Castle of Ehrenbrettstein (p. 153), on the top of its massive and commanding rock pedestal, are visible long before Coblenz appears behind the gi-ecn slopes of the 1. bank. 1. Neuendorf. Here the compara- tively small timber-rafts from the upper Rhine and its tributaries, and fi-om the Moselle, are formed into the large rafts which descend to Holland (see p. 137). (1.) Near Kcsselheim are remains of the chateau of Sdioahornlmt^ originally a palace of the Elector of Treves, and only remarkable because it was the residence of the Bom-bon princes and their supporters who were exiled from France during the first revolution. It became the head-quarters of the army of the refugees and their allies, and their plans of invading France were here concocted. The part of the build- ing now standing ser^^es as an inn. The plain between Andemach and Coblenz becomes eveiy 3 years the scene of very extensive military re- views of the Prussian army ; 25,000 men are manoeuvred on these occasions, usually in August or September, for the space of one month. (1.) Near the junction of the Mo- selle and Rhine stands the " Momunent of the yoimg and lamented General Marceau, killed at the battle of Alten- kirchen, in attempting to check the retreat of Jourdan, on the last day of the 4th year of the French republic." (Sept. 21, 1796.) " By Coblentz, on a rise of gentle ground, There is a small and simple pyramid, Crowning the summit of the verdant mound ; Beneath its base are heroes' aslies hid. Our enemy's — but let not that forbid Honour to Marceau ! o'er whose early tomb Tears, big tears, gush'd from the rough sol- dier's lid. Lamenting and yet envying such a doom, Falling for France, whose" rights he battled to resume. " Brief, brave, and glorious was his young career, — His mourners were two hosts, his friends and foes ; ^ And fitly may the stranger lingering here Pray for his gallant spirit's bright repose ; For he was Freedom's champion, one of those, The few in number, who had not o'erstept Tlie charter to chastise which she bestows On such as wield her weapons ; he had kept The whiteness of his soul, and thus men o'er him wept." Byhon. Byron adds : " The inscriptions on his monument are rather too long, and not required : his name was enough. Rhea. Prussia, route 37. — the ehixe (c). coble^'Z. 151 France adored, and lier enemies ad- mii-ed ; both vept over him. His funeral was attended by the generals and detachments from both armies." It was in allusion to the last cii-cum- stance that the words of the Imperial captain, in whose arms Bayard breathed his last under nearly similar circum- stances, were inscribed on the monu- ment: " Je vouchais qu'il m'eut coute ie quart de mon sang, et vous tinse en sante, mon prisonnier I quoique je sais que I'Empereur mon maiti-e n'eut en ses guenes plus rude ni facheux ennemi." — Me'iuoires de Bayard. On another side of the monument were inscribed the words, " Qui que tu sois, ami ou ennemi, de ce jeune heros rcspecte les cendres." This injunction has not been exactly compHed Avith. The monument ori- ginally stood where the fort Empr. Francis now stands, but was pulled do'xvii in 1817 to make room for it. Hoche was buried in the grave with 3Iarceau, though his monument is at "VVeissenthurm. "V^Tiether the bodies were removed or not is not clearly as- certained ; but some time after the tomb was rebuilt at the command of the late King of Prussia, in a field to the rt. of the road from Cologne to Coblenz. 1. After passing under the works of the Fort Euipr. Francis, which the French commenced and called Fort Marceau, the road crosses the Moselle by a handsome stone bridge a short distance above its confluence with the lihine, and enters Coblenz. The breaking up of the fi-ost is some- times attended with danger to the t0A\Ti of Coblenz. In the spring of 1830 the ice on the Moselle came down while the lihine was still fi-ozen over ; and being forced on by the current, while there was no outlet for its discharge, was raised into vast heaps near the jimction of the river, so as to overtop the stone bridge across the Moselle, and the quays along its banks. Indeed, l)ut for these quays, then recently built, it is pro- bable some of the houses in the lower to\\~a would have been injured, as the icebergs were piled up against them to a height of 10 ft., and the boats moored in front of them were crushed by the weight. The water of the Moselle rose so high as to break over the tongue of land on its 1. bank, threatening de- stniction to the village of Neuendorf, whose inhabitants took to flight ; and it eren floated up the Rhine on the top of the ice as far as Boppart ! The fields between, the 2 rivers were covered ynxh ice, and all commimication by the road cut off. The vast Palace of the Electors of Treves (now the King-'s) (p. 153), ex- tending along the bank of the Ehine, is I conspicuous as the steamer reaches her I moorings off j 2i 1. CoBLEXz. — Bvis: the 3 fol- lowing face the Rhine ; the Giant ; (Eiese), neai-est to the landing-place i of the steamers, is good and moderate. j Chai-ges : table-d'hote, with Avine, 24 I S. gr. ; tea 10 S. gr. ; breakfast 12 S. ! gT. ; beds 15 S. gr. to 21 S. gT. H. ': BeUeviie, and, next door to it, the Trois : Suisses ; Trierischer Hof (Poste), in , the gi'eat Square, Those who do nox : mind crossing the bridge to Ekren- : breitstein will find the White Horse i (Zum"VS"eissemEoss — ChevalBlanc) one ' of the best managed hotels on the Ehine. The landlord is a ci-devant major in j the Wiirtemberg army. j Coblenz is a strongly fortified town, I on the 1. bank of the Ehine, and rt. ; of the Moselle (Germ. Mosel). The i Eomans called it Confluentes, mo- demised into Coblenz, from its sinia- ! tion at the confluence of these 2 rivers. i It is the capital of the Ehenish provinces I of Prussia, and its population, includ- 1 ing that of Ehrenbreitstein and -iOOO j men in gamson, is 26,000. The extensive fortifications, which ; occupied nearly 20 years to complete, • connect the works on the 1. bank of i the Ehine with the citadel of Ehi-en- 1 breitstein on the rt. bank, and render ; Coblenz the bulwark of Germany and Pnissia on the side of France. These I vast defences foim a foitified camp, ! capable of containing 100,CH.tO men, and : are imique in then- way, combining the j 2 systems of fortification of Carnot and Montalembert, The works round the town, exteraal and detached, are the Fort Kaiser Franz below it, on the 1. bank of the 152 EOUTE 37. THE RHINE (c). COBLEXZ. Sect. II. Moselle, -which commands the approach from Cologne and Treves ; the forts Alexander and Constantino, above the town, on the site of the convent of the Chartreuse, command the roads to May- ence and that over the Hiindsiiick mountains ; and lastly, the many- mouthed batteries of Ehrenbreitstein, with some important works on neigh- bouring heights, sweep the stream of the Rhine and the road to Nassau. The presence of the military and civil government, and of an extensive garrison ; the situation of the town in the centi-e of the great highway up and do^vTi the Ehine, nearly equi-distant fi'om Cologne and Mayence, at the point of junction of the roads to Frank- furt and by Treves to Paris ; its vici- nity to the fashionable watering-place Ems ; and the nimiber of persons daily aniving and departing by coaches, car- riages, and steamboats, render Coblenz a lively and bustling place, especially in stmimer. The objects worth notice in the Old Town are — The Ch. of St. Castor, at the veiy confluence of the 2 rivers, distinguished by its 4 towers, and remarkable for its very great antiquity, having been " built chiefly at the expense, and con- secrated in the jjresence, of Louis the Pious (in 836), and is the earliest in- stance of the appearance of the Lom- bard style in the Phenish provinces." — G. K. It was the place whore the grandsons of Charlemagne met (843) to divide his vast empiie into Gennany, France, and Italy. The oldest parts are the interior of the choir, and the lower walls of the western towers. In the 1 1 th cent, it sufiered from fire ; the exterior of the choir dates from 1157 and 1201 ; the nave and transept from 1208; the vaulting from 1498. In 1830 the church was restored imder the diiTction of Lassaulx. On the 1. of the chancel stands the beautiful torah of Cuno of Falkenstein, Archbp. of Treves (d. 1388) ; it is of the 14th cent., and is ornamented with a painting of the Crucifixion, attributed to the old German master, "William of Cologne. In 1338 King Edward III. repaii'ed to Coblenz to meet the Emp. Le'v\'is of Bavaria, who installed him in front of this chiu-ch Ticar of the Empire, in order that he might secure the succour of the Crown- vassals on the 1. bank of the Phine, to aid him in *his designs against France. In the sqixare in front of this chiu-ch stands a Monvmcnt, erected by the French in 1812. It is a Fountain, bear- ing an inscription to commemorate the Invasion of Pussia by the French, affixed to it by the French Prefet of the Depart ement, at the time of Na- poleon's expedition. This inscription had not stood many months before the Russians, piirsuing the anny of Na- poleon, arrived here on theii" way to Paris. Their commander, St. Priest, instead of erasing the obnoxious words, contented himself vnXh the following sarcastic addition, which remains to the present time: "Vu et approuve par nous. Commandant Eusse de la Ville de Coblence, Janvier l*', 1814." The Liehfrancnhirche is very curious, with early pointed arches and scalloped windows in the style of Cologne. It was originally built ia 1259 ; the choir 1404-1431; the vaulting about 1500; the upper parts of the towers after the siege of 1688. The Protestant Church contains fine painted glass, voiy early, in the style of that iu the Jerusalem Chamber at "Westminster, brought from Nassau. The person who keeps the keys lives iu one of the oldest houses in Europe, close to the Ch.— F. S. The Moselle Bridge (b. 1344) com- mands a pleasing view up and down the river, and along the picturesque old buildings which line the quay. Below it, on the rt., rise the ancient Tovcn Hall, and the original Castle of the Flectors of Treves, bxiilt 1280, now a manufactoiy of Japan ware. One of the fh-st buildings on the 1. hand, after passing through the archway from the bridge, is the ^^ Stammhans" (family house) of Prince Mettemich, the late Austiian Prime Minister, who was born in it. There are many other seats of the ancient nobility of the empire, as that of the Princes von der Leyen, Counts Bassenheim, Elz, &:c. The Hos- pital is under the exemplary manage- ment of the " Socurs de la Charite." JRlien. Prussia, eoute 37. — the rhixe (c). ehrexereitsteix. 153 The principal building in tlie Xev: T'j'jyii is the Palace of the King, -srho has caused it to be fitted up for his summer residence. Its long and hand- some faq-ade extends along the Ehine, above the Bridge of Boats; its prin- cipal fi-ont is turned towards the Great Square, near which the parade is held between 12 and 1 o'clock, when the band plays. It was built by the last Elector of Treves, Clement Wences- laus, Prince of Poland, Didce of Saxony, and uncle of Louis XYL, 1778-17S8. The building was degTaded by the ' French into baixacks. It contains , nothing worth notice. j The Service of the Church of England is, ; perfoiTued in the beautiful Palace Chapel by an English clergyman t«ice every ; Simday. On the top of the palace stands a telegxaph, the fii'st of a line i which commimicates a message to Ber- i lin in about half an horn-. j The new Palace of Justice contains | the Law Com-ts, which are open to the i public. Justice is adminis tiered by | judges in gowns, but without wigs, i and by trial by jmy. The assizes are | held eveiy 3 months. The Casino, or town club, is of chaste | architectiu-e ; it has an elegant ball- room, good reading-rooms, and gardens. ! Close at hand is an ancient Convent ; of Jesuits, now the grammar-schooL i The Cellars beneath it well desei-ve to . be visited from their vast extent ; they • are so lofty and wide that a stage-coach loaded might easily drive roimd them. They belong to Messrs. Deinhai-d and Jordan, barikers and wine-merchants here, and contain about 300 vats of : Rhine and jNIoselle wines, each equal to ; 7 ohms, or all together to about 400,000 bottles. ! A veiy agreeable sparkling wine is ' made from the gi^apes of the Rhine ' and Moselle ; and the vines which ' grow under the veiy g-uns of Ehren- breitstein fuiTiish, vmder skilful ma- ruigement, a liighly flavoured wine, which is no bad substitute for Cham- pagne. Coblenz is a free port, and carries on an active commerce up and down the 3 rivers, Rhine, Moselle, and Lahn, supplying the countiy around with colonial produce. From its vicinity to the wine districts it forms the na- tiu-al staple place of the Rhine and Moselle wines, goiag down the river to Great Britaiu, Holland, and other parts of the world. About a million jars of Seltzers and other miaeral waters from the duchy of Nassau are shipped annually fi-om hence. Com and the excellent u'on of the neigh- boTU'hood are exported up the Moselle into France. The volcanic produc- tions of this coim.tiy form very peculiar ai-ticles of ti'ade ; such are the lava itself, in the shape of millstones, and the ashes, or pumice-stone, ground to foi-m Dutch tiras : these, as well as potter's clay fr'om the Moselle, bark fr-om the forests of the Eifel and Huns- driick, and stonewai'e fr-om the Saucr- land, a moimtainous and poor district of Westi>halia, jS", of the Duchy of Xassau, are much iu request iu Hol- land. Xeuendoi-f, a little below Coblenz, is the rendezvous for the great timber- rafts. Xo town on the Rhine sua-passes Coblenz in the beauty of its situation : from whatever side you approach, by land or water, it presents a beautiful picture. The views from the centi-e of the biidge of boats, fr-om the heights of Ehrenbreitstein, of Pfafiendorf', or of the Chartreuse, are all fine. The most interesting object in the ^•icinity, on accoimt of its towering and majestic appearance, for the glorious view of the junction of the Rhiae and MoseUe, and of the course of the Rhine from Stolzcnfels down to Andemaeh, which it commands, and for the vast extent of its foi-tifications, is the rock and foi-tress of (rt.) Ehrenbreitstein (honour's broad stone), the Gibraltar of the Rhine, connected with Coblenz by a bridge of boats. An order to see it must be ob- tained from the commandant in Coblenz (Regiei-ungsgebaude), which a valet- de-place will easily procui-e on present- ing the passport- This fortress, originally a Roman Casti-um, was, diu-ing the middle ages, the rcfrige and stronghold of the Elec- tors of Treves, who, in later times, 154 ROUTE 37. THE EHIXE (c). EHREXBREITSTEIN. Sect. II. bid defiance to almost any assault : its weak point is on the N.W. Here, however, art lias done its utmost to repair a natui'al defect, and 3 lines of defences present themselves, one within another, which would requii^e to be taken in succession before the enemy could enter in this direction. The great platform on the top of the rock, sending as a parade, covers vast arched cisterns, capable of holding a supply of water for 3 years, furnished by springs without the walls. There is, besides, a well, sunk 400 ft. deep in the rock, communicating "wdth the Rhine : the Rhine water, however, is very un- wholesome from the quantity of vege- table matter decomposed in it. Those who reach Coblenz too late to get an order to see Ehrenbreitstein may content themselves with the ^-iew from the Pfaffendorfer Hohe (a hill on the same side of the Rhine), which is nearly as fine. (1.) Hill of the Chartreuse. — The view from Ehrenbreitstein is, perhaps, even sm^iassed by that from the heights of the Karthauserberg, on the 1. bank of the Rhine, about ^ m. above Coblenz. It receives its names fi'om an old con- vent, now removed to make way for Forts Alexander and Constantine. It is nearly as high as Ehrenbreitstein, and that stupendous rock and citadel foi-m the grandest feature of the ^-iew from this point : while, by approaching the verge of the hill, on one side the Rhine is seen, with the fortified heights of Pfiiffendorf beyond it, and on the other side the Moselle flows at the gazer's feet. There are so many interesting spots near Coblenz, to which Excursions may be made, that it deserves to be chosen as a halting-place for some days. (<'.) To the Castle of Stolzenfels, 3 m. up, on the 1. bank of the Rhine, on the road to Mayence, p. 156; vehicles (einspanner, with one horse) may be found near the Mainzer Thor to take you there and back for one thaler — with 2 horses 1 th. 10 S. gr. : {b.) to the top of the Kuhkopf, the highest hill near Coblenz : (c.) to Lahnstein, on the rt. bank of the Rhine, p. 157 : {d.) to Sayn, and the Abbey of Ronimcrsdorf, p. 150. Tours occupied the Falace (now a flour ware- house) at the foot of the rock, before the erection of their more princely re- sidence on the opposite side of the Rhine. It was in vain besieged by the French in 1688, imder Marshal Bouf- flers, notwitstanding the celebrated Vauban directed the works against it, and although Louis XIY. repaired hither in order to be the eye-witness of its sim-ender. But it fell into their hands in 1799, after a siege, in which the gaiTison was reduced to such ex- tremities from want of food, that a cat sold for 1^ floiin, and horse-flesh rose to 30 kreutzers per pound. It was blown up by the French when they evacuated it after the peace of Lune- viUe. '■ Here Ehrenbreitstein, with her shatter'd : wall I Black with the miner's blast upon her height, | Yet shows of what she was, when shell and ball Rebounding idly on her strength did light : I A tower of victory ! from whence the flight I Of baffled foes was watch'd along the plain ; | But Peace destrov'd what War could never I blight, And laid those proud roofs bare to Summer's rain, j On which tlie iron shower for years liad pour'd in vain." — BvKoy. i It is now no longer a ruin. Since \ 1814 the Prussians have spared no j pains or cost in restoring it, and add- i ing new works, which have been only recently brought to a conclusion, and ! it is considered to be stronger than I ever. Prussia devoted to the re-con- sti-uction of this fortress her share of the conti'ibution which France was compelled to pay the Allies after the war : but more than 4 times that sum has probably been expended on it by the Prussian government. The entfre cost of the works on both sides of the Rhine at Coblenz is estimated to have exceeded 5 millions of dollars ; and al- though they may be converted into a fortified camp holding 100,000 men, yet a garrison of 5000 is enough to defend them. The magazines are ca- pable of containing provisions for 8000 men for 10 years. Ehi-enbreitstein is defended by about 400 pieces of cannon. The escarped rocks, or steep slopes, on 3 sides, would Rhea. Prussia, eoltte 37. the ehixe (c). coblexz. of a day may be made to the Abbey and Lake of Laach (Rte. 40) ; to the Castle of Eh (Rte. 41) ; to Xeuided, below Engers, p. 149 ; to the Castle of Marks- h'l.rg, p. 157 ; which may be thus ar- ranged : — Hu-e a can'iage to Xieder- spay, opposite Braubach (2 dollars), stopping to see Stolzenfels and Kunigs- stuhl. Cross the feny at Xiederspay, ascend to the Marksbiu-g (2 houi-s re- quired to see it). Descend the Rhine in a boat, which costs 20 S. gr., toXie- derlahnstein and Coblenz. To Ems and Xassau (Rte, 95). A pleasant excursion of 2 days may be made to the Baths of Bertrich, re- turning by the Moselle, and in this short space the ti-aveUer may enjoy some of the most beautiful scenery that river presents. (See Rte. 42.) The numerous forests around abound in game — roes, stags, wild boar, and even wolves. The preserves of the Duke of Xassau and Prince of "Wied are richly stocked, and they are known to be liberal in admitting foreigners to their shooting parties, so that Coblenz is good sporting quarters in autiunn and winter. Hints for raaking the Tour of the Bhine, above Coblenz. — The dii'ect road to the Bnmnen of Xassau (Rte. 95) stiikes away from the Rhine at Cob- lenz ; but as a great part of it is unin- teresting, and as some of the finest scenery of the Rhine lies between Cob- lenz and Bingen, those who ^\-ish to explore its beauties wUl find it far pre- ferable to adhere to the post-road lom- ning along the 1. bank as far as Bingen, and there, crossing the river into the Rheingau, turn off to Wiesbaden. In this case it is advisable to make an Excursion from Coblenz to Ems^ and the Castle of Xassau, 6 m. beyond it. (See Rte. 95.) A carriage may be hired for 4^ dollars to Ems. Those who have a week to spare may make from Coblenz the tour of the beautiful Jfoselle to Treves (Rte. 41), retimiing by the river in the steamer (Rte. 42). They who cannot spare time to go all the way to Treves will find it worth their while to devote 1^ or 2 days to an excursion to Miin- stei'-Maifeld, the castle of Elz, and the village of Alf, situated on the MoseUe, at a spot where its sceneiy is most beautiful, and to the Baths of Bertrich. (Rte. 42.) A good siunmer's day's excm-sion may be made by hiring a carriage from Coblenz to go by the Treves post-road through MetteiTuch to Lonnig, where are the remains of a fine old Roman- esque chmxh, with semicircular apsis, colonnade, &:c., then to Miinster-Mai- feld, p. 191, and so on to the hill above Elz, where leave the carriage to go to Gondorf, and cross the Moselle to Xiederfell by the ferry and refresh. Meanwhile the traveller can see Elz, walk to Moselkem or to Hatzenport, there take boat and fall down the river to Gondorf or Cobem; after seeing which he can fi-om either recross the river to his carriage at or near Xieder- feU, and back to Coblenz by the rt. bank, by a new, but bad, carriage -road, p. 193. A long day and an early start, are desfrable, as it wiU be too late to return to Coblenz by the down boat, and the road is not to be recommended in the dark. The young peasant giiis in the coun- try aroim.d Coblenz wear before mar- riage a veiy elegant cap richly em- broidered, with a sHver-gilt arrow or stiletto stuck thi'ough their hafr. Fixst-ra.tepht/sicians areDr.Uli-ich, Dr. Soest, and Dr. Baermann, who imder- stand English. (For Fees see § 41.) The pharmacy of Mr. Mohr is excellent. Baedeker, a very intelligent book- seller in the Rhein Strasse, 452, leading fi'om the bridge, at the comer of the square, keeps a good assortment of English, French, and German books, guide-books, piints, maps, &:c., and is the publisher of one of the best Tra- vellers' Manuals of Conversation. He has also translated and printed a Ger- man edition of the Handbooks, and is personally acquainted with all parts of his own covmtry. Steamers several times a-day up to Mayence and down to Cologne ; up the'Moselle daily to Treves, in 1^ day, returning in 10 hrs. (Rte. 41.) Schnellposts (§ 50) to Cologne twice a-day : daily to Mayence ; to Treves ; to Cassel, by Wetzlar and Giessen, in I 3 156 E. 38. THE RHINE (l;). STOLZElvFELS. Sect. II. •2G hrs. ; and to Fraiikfort by Ems, Schwalbacli, and Wiesbaden. Omnibus to Ems several times a-day. Droskies (cabs) are much cheaper than those hired at the hotels. EOUTE 38. THE RHINE (d). COBLEXZ TO MAYEXCE. The post-road along the 1. bank of the Rhine is 12 Piniss. m. = 56 Eng. rn. Steamers (5 or 6 daily) upwards in 8 hrs. ; down in 5 hrs. Schnellpost daily in 9 hrs. to Mayence ; in 7i hrs. to Kreuznach by Bingen. Immediately above Coblenz the mountains close in upon the Rhine, which flows through a contracted gorge extending as far as Bingen. The dark shadows of the mountains, the nume- rous feudal castles in ruins, and walled and tuiTeted towns, are the prominent features of its imrivalled scenery, the effect of which is heightened by his- torical associations and the channs of romance and chivahy. On quitting Coblenz we pass (1.) Forts Alexander and Constantine ; and on the rt. bank another fort, crowning the heights of Pfaffendorf, above a village of that name. They have been fortified with as much care and expense as the citadel itself. (rt.) Horchheim is the last Prussian ^'illage : it is opposite to the island Obersverth, upon which stands the countiy-house of Coiint Pfaffenhofen, formerly a nunnery. (1.) Stolzenfels, a castle, finely placed on a jutting rock overlooking the Rhine and the little village of KapeUen, and nearly opposite the confluence of the Lahn, 3 m. above Coblenz. Its pic- txrresque outline and commanding posi- tion seem to justify its name of the Proud Each, and render it one of the most imposing feudal castles on the Rhine. It is one of the numerous for- tresses built by the Archbishops of Treves, and was a favoxuite residence of several of those princely Prelates. The Piincess Isabella, sister of Henry III. of England, and bride of the Emp. Frederick II., was lodged here M-ith a splendid retinue in 1235. It was de- stroyed by the French in 1G88, and had been abandoned to dcca} , imtil it was presented by the town of Coblenz to the present lung of Prussia, while CroTS-n Prince, by whom it has been restored. A fine carriage road has been formed, partly by bridging a ra- vine up to the castle, and is car- ried thence in zigzags to the top of the neighboiunng hill. Pretty planta- tions and walks have been laid out aroimd it. One apartment (the Rittcr- saal) is painted by Stilke with frescoes, representing the knightly virtues and accomplishments of Courage, Fidelity, Justice, Perseverance, Love, and Music, by scenes fi-om history. 1 . Courage : the death of the blind King John of Bohemia at the battle of Crecy, 27th Aug. 1346, after ha"s-ing fastened his horse to those of two knights. 2. Fidelity : Herman von Siebeneichen saves the Emp. Fred. Barbarossa, by exposing himseK to the Guelph assas- sins, ha-STJig compelled the Emperor to fly. 3. Love : the Empr. Fred. II. receives his bride Isabella Plantagenet, sister of Heniy III. 4. Music : Philip of Swabia and his wife Irene sailing down the Rhine, surrounded by the most famous minstrels of their day. 5. Justice : Rudolph of Habsburg re- establishes general peace. 6. Persever- ance : Godfrey of Bouillon hangs up his arms in the C'hiu-ch of the Holy Sepul- chre. On the window side are St. Gereon, St. George, St. Maurice, and St. Reinhold. In another room is an ar- momy, where are preserved the swords of Tilly, Bliicher, xSapoleon, ]ilurat, &c. The castle is often resorted to by the Coblenzers on account of its fine view. An hotel has been bmlt at the foot of the rock, and donkeys swarm to convey the sti-angers up it. Xot long ago Stolzenfels was offered for sale at 70 dollars (11/.) without finding a pur- chaser. The King of Prussia received Queen Victoria here in 1845, and the apartments occupied by H.M. are ostentatiously sho^vn. Both banks of the Lahn and the rt. bank of the Rliine, nearly all the way hence to Mayence, belong to Nassau. (i-t.) Below the mouth of the Lahn stands the Church of St. John^ built Rhen. Frus R. 38. RHIXE (d). rhexse. braubach. 157 about 1100, but reduced to a ruin through a lawsuit about the liability of the titheo"vmer to repair it, which lasted -to years. The choir is square outside, but curved within . the sa- cristy has elliptical vaulting : a tower is raised very bolcUy upon coliunns : the great tower is the oldest. Beyond it is the village of Xieder-Lahnstein, on the rt. bank of the Lahn. Here the Russians, under St. Priest, crossed the Ehine in 1814. Douquet's Inn, at Lahnstein, is a good dining place, and its small court-yard commands fine vieM's. There is a fen'>/ over the Rhine from Stolzenfels to Lahnstein, and an- other over the Lahn at its mouth, and a good caiTiage-road leads up its rt. bank to Ems. It is proposed to render the Lahn navigable up to WeHbiu-g, a difficult scheme, but of vast importance to Nassau, by opening an outlet for the produce of its mines, and for that of the agriculture of Wetteravia and Upper Hesse. (rt.) Above the mouth of the Lahn, on the top of a rock, are the ruins of the Castle of Lahneck, which gave rise to Gothe's verses " G-eister Gruss." Obcrlahnstern, an old xinaltered waUed town, whose most conspicuous edifice is the red Castle of the Electors of Mayence, on the margin of the Rhine. Just without its walls a little white chapel is visible among the trees; it is memorable as the spot where the Electoi-s met to pronounce the depo- sition of the weak and indolent Em- peror "Wenceslaus, and to elect Rupert emperor in his stead (1400). (1.) Rhense (Inn, Ziun Konigs- stahl), one of the least altered towns on the Rhine ; its timber houses, few of which are newer than the 16th cent., and some even of the 14th cent., retain entirely the mediaeval Geiman aspect. The road passes through it. A little below it is the Konvjsstuhl (King's Seat), where the Electors used to meet to deliberate on affairs of the Empire. It is an open vaulted hall with 7 arches and 9 pillars, 1 being in the middle, and with 7 stone scats round the side for the 7 Electors. Here many treaties of peace were concluded, emperors dethroned and elected, and j here the Emperor Maximilian appeared I in person to take the oaths. It was i allowed to go to ruin imder the French I g-ovemment, and was pulled down 1807, i but has been rebuilt in its original shape, and partly out of the old ma- ; terials (1843). This situation vras j selected from its vicinity to the ter- ritories of the 4 Rhenish Electors. ' The town of Rhense belonged to the Elector of Cologne, Lahnstein to Mainz, CapeUen and Stolzenfels to Treves, : and Braubach to the Palatinate. Thus each could repair to this spot, or retire from it into his own dominions^ in a few minutes' time. (rt.) Braubach, a small town, with a Chateau, at the water-side (now tiuTied i into an Inn, zur PhiUipsbm-g). stands ! at the foot of a high and almost conical i rock, surmounted by the imposing Castle of Markshnrcj, an iijaaltered speci- . men of a sti'onghold of the middle ages, I and on this account deser^-ing of a visit. I It is sometimes used as a prison, and is I garrisoned by a corps of invalids. It is I indeed the beau^ideal of the old Ritter^ I schloss, with mysterious narrow pas- j sages, winding stairs, vaults hewn in ' the living rock, which seiwed in former i days as dimgeons ; among them the I honible pit called Hundloch (Doghole), I into which piisoners were let down, as I a bucket into a well, by a windlass ; and above all, a chamber of torture (Folter- kammer), whence the rack has been only lately removed. Here is shown the cell in which the Emp. Hemy lY, was confined. A secret passage is said to pass down through the rock to a tower on the borders of the river. The view from the top of the Donjon keep (called T\^inipel) wHl please the lover of the pictiu'csque. Braubach is about 7 m. from Ems. A tolerable road connects the two places (Rte. 95) . Just out of the town, at the roadside, is a delicious spiing of mineral water, re- sembling that of Selters. In order to visit Marksbiu-g from the 1. bank of the Rhine cross the river at Xierderspay, where there is a feny to Braubach. (1.) Three smaU villages close toge- ther, called Mittchpay, Pcterspay, and Oberspay. The Rhine here makes a 158 ROUTE 38. — THE EHIXE (d). boppart. Sect. II. very great bend, and does not recover its foi-mer direction till Boppart is passed. (rt.) 2 m. above Braiibach, nearly opposite Oberspay, is a mineral sprrag called Dinkholder Brunnen. (rt.) Above the little village of Os- terspay rises tbe Castle of Lieheneck, witli -white walls. (1.) BopPART* {Inm: Post; Rhein- ischer Hof, new ; Spiegel), a very an- cieiit walled town, with 3500 inhab. and dark narrow streets, no better than lanes. It was the Roman Baudobriga, and, like many other places upon the Rhine, it owed its origin to a castle built by Drusus, and the walls of this Castr-imi, an oblong square of Roman masonry, still exist in the heart of the town : the outer walls date from the middle ages. Boppart was made an Imperial city, and many Diets of the Empire were held in it. The Haupt- kirche^ buUt about 1200, and distin- guished by its twin pointed spires united by a galleiy like a bridge, "is remarkable for the various shapes of the arches in its front sides and semi-octa- gonal apsis ; some of the latter being pointed, but evidently of the same age with the round-headed: small gallery imder the roof of the apsis : inside gal- leries [over the aisles, maimer chore] with small round-headed arches, sup- ported on twin columns, and enclosed in larger ones : wall-plates with arches, some round, some pointed, some in slips : a rosette in the pediment." — Hope. A remarkable door on the 1. of the apse, at the E. end, surmounted by 3 concentric arches of peculiar an-ange- ment, is well worth the architect's notice. — F. S. The C"rmeliterf:irche contains a curious monument of the family von Elz, — rich specimens of sculpture of the 16th cent., but mu- tilated. Within the pictiu-esque streets, the antiquary, architect, and artist wiU find much to interest them. The Baj/erh'ij's present some peculiarities of architecture. It was the house of the family of Bayer von Boppart, the ally of Rudolph of Habsbiu-g in the destruction of the robbei'-nests on the Rhine. The Tempelhof preserves the recollection of the Knights Templars of * 3 Germ, m, Boppart, relay. i Boppart, who first mounted the breach at the storming of Ptolemais in tlic 3rd Crusade. The lai'ge Convent of Marieuhnrg^ built 1738, behind Boppart, once a cotton-mill, afterwards a girls' school, is now converted into a medical board- ing-house for the Water-cure. The Miihlbad near the river is another es- tablishment of the same sort. Before reaching Salzig (1.), famed for its cheny orchards, the mountains recede somewhat from the banks of the river, and give place to corn-fields and meadows. (rt.) A little higher up than the ^^Ll- lage of Kamp, immediately above the ancient Convent of Bomhofen (where is a 2-aisled ch. exhibiting some bold constmction) , and opposite Salzig, rise the mouldei-ing towers of the tivin castles of Sternberg and Liebenstein^ cro-oTiing the double summit of a lofty rock, covered with vines. They go by the name of the Brothers, and are inte- resting from their picturesqueness and the tale of their owners, two brothers, who, having fallen in love with the same fair maid, became foes, settled their rivalry by the sword, and fell l)y each other's hands. The castles belonged to the Electors of Treves. (rt.) Ehrenthal, where are silver, lead, and copper works, producing 100,000 florins annually : a little above this is Webrdch, a small village at the foot of a moimtain, sum:ioimted by the ruined castle of Thumberff or Kvnoheni, built by Kuno v. Falkenstein, the Archbp. of Treves (1363), called "the Mouse," in contra.st to " the Cat," another castle above St. Goarshausen. The Mouse, however was generally the stronger of the two, so that the Cat trembled be- fore it. It is one of the most perfect castles on the Rhine; the wood- work alone is wanting ; the walls are entire. Fine view. (1.) Close above the town of St. Gear rises the vast Fortress of Eheinfels, the most exten.sive ruin on the Rhine. The original castle was built by a Count Diether of Katzenelnbogen (1245), as a stronghold where he could reside, and also exact toll, or, as we should say at present, le-v-y transit duties, upon' all Ehen. Pr ^lissia. EOUTE 38. — THE RHiXE (d). ST. GOAE. 159 merchandize passing np or tloAvn the Ehine. An attempt, ho^verer, on his part to increase these duties roused the indio-nation of his neig-hboiirs, and his castle -^-as besieged in vain for 15 months by the bui'ghers of the adjacent towns. This unsuccessful attempt "was productive of more important conse- quences ; it "s\-as one of the circimi- stances which gave rise to the extensive confederacy of the German and Ehenish cities, to the number of 60, whose more numerous and formidable annies re- duced and dismantled not only the castle of Eheinfels, but also most of the other strongholds, or robber-nests, upon the Pihine. This event took place in the latter part of the 13th cent. The cas- tle afterwards came into the possession of the Landgrave of Hesse, who, at a very considerable expense, converted it into a modem fortress, "o-ith bastions and casemates. It was besieged in 1692 by an araiy of 24,000 French, imder Mar- shal Tallard, who had promised the fortress as a new yeai-'s gift to his master, Louis XIY. ; biit, thi-ough the brave defence of the Hessian general Gortz, was compelled to break his word and draw off his forces. His example was not followed in 179-1-, when, though its works had been p'eatly strengthened, it ; was basely abandoned by the Hessian garrison, without filing a shot, on the fii'st appearance of the revolutionary French anny, by whom it was blown up, and rendered useless. Below Ehein- fels lies the post-town of i *(1.) St. Goar.— //i«, Zxir LiHe (the ' Lily), good, but often over-crowded. St. Goar lies in the midst of the finest scenes of the Ehine ; it is, therefore, well placed for a da^-'s halt. The views in its vicinity are among the most pictm-esque in the whole course of the liver, and the rocks which hem it in are peculiarly wild and precipitous. The castle of Eheinfels, mag-nificent in appearance, and interesting fioni its histoiy, rewards the trouble of the ascent by the ^iew which it commands. Another vei^" pleasing view is to be obtained from the summit of the heights above St. Goar, which rise immediately , I * \\ Germ. m. St. Goar. i i in face of the Lmieiberg. The spot is ' approached by a footpath, leading out of the high road to Eingen, lOu yds. before you come to the Trimipeter's Grotto, by the side of the bed of a winter toiTent ; the way is not difficult , to find. Another agreeable exixnlition : is to the Miihlenthal, between "Weiiau and Karbach. The Frotestant Ch., near the centre of the town, of pleasing architecture, stands over the ciy]:)t of the old Ch. of St. Goar (built 1465). In the CdhoHc ' Ch. of St. Goar is the rude image of \ that holy hermit, who in the 7th cent, settled here to preach Chiistianity to the iiide inhabitants, and who after- wards gave his name to the town. It is recorded that once, to prove his sanc- tity, he hxmg up his cloak on a simbeam, a miracle which was imitated by St. Elizabeth at Marburg, who hung out her washing to dry on a sunbeam. His shrine, after his death, in 647, became a place of pilgiimage, and is still famed for workmg miracles, and his help is supposed to have rescued many a poor boatman who prayed to him from the peiils of the Ge'wiiT (a whiiipool in this part of the river), and the enchant- ments of the Xymph of the Lmlei. (rt.) The Nassau bank of the Ehine hereabouts also affords pleasant excur- sions and points of view. Boats are always ready at St. Goar to transport visitors across the river to rt. Goarshauscn (Inn, Adler — Aigle; the steamers will set you down here). Here mules may be hii-ed to explore the pretty Schweitzer Thai (Swiss Valley), traversed by a limpid stream descending in numberless small cascades between precipitous walls of rock, and tiuniing many water-mills. At the en- ti'ance of this valley, above the walled Wllage of St. Goai-shausen, rises the veiy picttiresque Castle of the Cat (a contrac- tion of Katzenelnbogen, Cat's Elbow, the name of its original possessors). The view from it is not inferior to that fi'om the 1. bank. Those who feel an ardour to climb still higher may reach the brow of the Lurlei, and gaze upon the Ehine ft'om the brink of this lofty pre- cipice. Another agreeable excursion from 160 ROUTE 38. — THE RHINE (d). lurlei. oberwesel. Sect. II. middle of the river, and visible when the water is low, are the rocks called the 7 Sister J (see next page). 1. Oberwesel. — Inns: Eheinischer Hof ; — Trierischer Hof ; — Goldener Pfropfenzieher (Golden Corkscrew — the sign painted by one of the Diis- seldorf artists, Schi'odter). Oberwesel (the YesaHa of the Homans), a small town of 2.300 inhab., one of the most charming spots on the Rhine, is highly pictm-esque from its lofty round tower (^Ochsetith'vrm) at the water-side, its many-turreted walls, and Gothic build- ings. Among the latter is the Ch. of our La.dij (Liebfi'auenkii'che) , outside the town at its upper end, one of the most highly decorated as well' as taste- ful examples of Gothic architecture upon the Rhine. It was consecrated in 1331, Its porches are richly sculp tared, and the vaulting of the cloisters is sin- gular. The rood-loft (Lettner) is a rich specimen of Gothic. The choir is 80 ft. high. The altar-piece of carved wood, richly gilt, consisting of a series of niches, filled with the figiu-es of prophets, patriarchs, and saints, is of the same age as the church, and is the perfection of elegance and delicacj". In a side chapel are many monuments of the Schomberg family, bearing i-udely- carved effigies of knights in armoiir, ladies in stomachers and ruffs, and babies in swaddling clothes, like mimi- mies or the larvae of insects. The older Ch. of St. Martin, with a large square tower and octagonal lan- tern, is also interesting from its ar- chitecture. In it is a Deposition from the Cross by Diepcnhecl:. In some period of the dark ages a boy named Werner is said to have been most impiously crucified and put to death by the Jews in this place. A similar story is told in many other parts of the world ; even in England, at Gloucester and Lincoln {vide Chau- cer). It is probable that the whole was a fabrication, to serve as a pretext for persecuting the Jews and extorting money from them. A little Chapel, erected to the memoiy of this TTeraer, stands upon the walls of the town, close to the Rhine. (1.) Schmberg. This i-uincd castle Goarshausen will occupy a morning, j Ascend the Forstbach, or Schweitzer- j thai, to the ruined Castle of Eeichenberg, \ one of the most interesting in the vi- cinity of the Rhine, built 1284, ruined in 1302, but shortly after restored by Baldwin of Treves in an Asiatic style, traces of which may be observed in the gatev>-ay. It was destroyed by Tilly in the 30 years' war. RettuTi by the village of Patersberg, whence by far the finest view of the Rheinfels is to be obtained. (rt.) A short way above St. Goar, ; but on the rt. bank, rises abruptly fr'om i the water's edge the bare, black, and pei-pendicular precipice called the Lur- lei. (1.) At the side of the high , road, opposite this colossal cliff, is a gi-otto occupied by a man whose em- ■ ployment it is to awaken by pistol or , bugle, for the gratification of travellers, ' the remarkable Echo of the Lmlei, : which is said to repeat soimds 15 times. The aspect of the Lurlei fr'om this point is very grand. The GeiTaan stu- dents amuse themselves by asking the echo, " AVho is the Burgomaster of Oberwesel ?" Answer — " Esel " (the , German for Ass) : a joke of which the burgomaster highly disapproves. There is a fishery of salmon in this part of the river. j At the bend of the Rhine between St. Goar and the Lurlei rock is the whirlpool (Wu-bel) called the Gevsirr, \ and above it a rapid called t?i,e Bank, | formed by the stream dashing over a number of sunken rocks, increased by the sudden bend which the river here makes. The passage of the large rafts which na\'igate the Pchine over this spot is difficult and dangerous ; the forepart is often dragged 5 or 6 feet under the surface, the crews plunged up to their necks in water, and men have been washed overboard by the tumultuous , waves dashing over the slippery plank. The perils of this spot, taken in con- nection -^'ith the mysterious echo, no doubt gave birth to the superstition that the Lurlei was haunted by a beauteous ' but wicked nymph or SjTen, who dis- \ tracted and begiuled the passing boat- man with her magical voice only to overwhelm and di'own him in the waves of the whirlpool. Above this, in the Rhea. Prussia. R. 38. — the ehixe (d). gutenfels. pfalz. 161 behind nished on, hearing^ the cry, in expectation of another battle." — /. 'G. L. A toll is here paid, by all vessels na- ■s-igating the Rhine, to the Dnlie of Xassau, the only chieftain remaining on the river ^vho still exercises this feudal previlege. In the middle ages no less than 32 diiferent tolls were es- tablished on the Ehine. In the middle of the river, opposite Caub, rises the quaint castle called the Pfalz, built by the Empr. Lewis the Bavarian, previous to 1326, as a convenient toll-house ; it now belongs to the Duke of Xassau. To this little island Louis le Debonnaireretii-ed to die, worn out with the cares of empii-c, 840, " desii-ing that a thatched lodge or leafy hut, such as had scr^-ed him while himt- ing in the forest, should be prepared." Here, " lying on his couch, lulled by the soothing music of the gm-ghng waters," he breathed his last.* — .S'. Ac- cording to a popular tradition the Pfalz served in former times as a place of refuge and seciuity whither the Countesses Palatine repaired previous to their accouehements, which, were it true, would be a proof of the insecure life led by princes as well as peasants in the tui-bulent times of the middle ages. Such an occurence may have actually taken place in a single instance, but it is very unlikely that a rude toll- house should repeatedly have served as a princely abode. There are diuigeons under it below the level of the river, in which state-prisoners of rank were once confined. The castle is accessible by means of a ladder, and the only enti'ance is closed by a portcullis (FallthlLr). The well which supplies it with water is filled fi-om a source far deeper than the bed of the Rhine. t(l.) Bacharach (/h?j, Post) is en- circled by antique walls, and defended by 12 towers, of strength in former days, of picturesque and ornamental appear- ance in the present. They arc singidar in their construction, ha^ing only 3 walls, the side towards the town being on the rock was the cradle of an illus- trious family of the same name. The English Schombergs ai-e a bi'anch of it, and the hero of the Boyne, Marshal Schomberg, sprang fi-om the same stock. It receives its name (Beautiful Hill), as the story goes, fi'om 7 beau- tet3us daughters of the house, who by tlieir charms turned the heads of half the yoimg knights far and near ; but were, at the same time, so hard-hearted that they would listen to the suits of none of them, and were therefore changed into 7 rocks, which are seen even to this day projecting out of the bed of the Rhine below Oberwesel, when the water is low. (rt.) G'fte/ifels, a ruined castle above the town of Caub, traditionally (r) said to be named after a fair lady called Guda, who was beloved of Richard of Cornwall, Empr. of Gemiany, and bro- ther of our Henry III. In the 30 years' war Gustavus Adolphus directed an attack upon the Spaniards, posted on the opposite bank, from its battle- ments, but, after 6 days of luiceasing hostilities, was unable to efiect a pas- sage in the face of the wary General Spinola. The castle remained in habi- table condition down to 18u7, when, owing to the expense of keeping it up, the roofs and wood- work were sold by auction, and the building converted into a ruin. (it.) C".".b (7n/?5 ; Xassauer Hof; Giiinewald) has slate-quanies under- ground, and is principally remai-kable as the spot where Bliichei-'s aiTny crossed the Rhine on Xew Year's Xight, 1814. It was from the heights above that the view of the Rhine first burst upon the Piiissians, and ch'ew forth one simul- taneous and exulting ciy of triumph. " To the Gei-mans of eveiy age this great river has been the object of an affection and reverence scarcely inferior to that with which an Egyj^tian con- templates the XQe, or the Indian his Ganges. When these brave bands, having achieved the rescue of their native soil, came in sight of this its ancient landmark, the burden of a himched songs, they knelt and shouted The Rhine I the Rhine ! as with the heart and voice of one man. Thev that were * See Palgrave's eloquent History of Nor- mandy, 1851 — a work aboundini:ay from "Wiesbaden to Frankfurt by Castel passes by Biberich, where there is a station. Passengers hound for Frank- furt or Wiesbaden may disembark here, and take the train to Wiesbaden in 10 mitt., and to Frankfurt in 1^ hr., sav- ing thereby half an hoirr's detour by the river and detention at Mayenee. Tariff for porterage from steamer to railway station, and vice versa at Bibe- rich : — For trunks and largo and heavy parcels, 6 kreutzers each; for small do., 3 kr. each. The train is drawn by horses along a short branch from Bibe- rich to the main line. (Rte. 95.) The red towers of Mayenee (1.) now appear in sight, suiToimded by fortifica- tions, connected by a bridge of boats over the Rhine with rt. The fortified subiu'b of Castel (Bahrdt's Inn, large and good, close to the railway), which forms the tete de pont. 1. Matxz (Fr. Mayenee ;) Inns: Rheinischer Hof, best; Eiu-opaischer Hof : Hessischer Hof, good and quiet ; Hollandischer Hof, good ; H. d'Angle- terre, pretty good — all on the Quay close to the Rhine ; Drei Reiehs- Kronen (Thi'ee Crowns); at Castel, on the rt. bank of the Rhine, near the Railway Station, Bahrdt's Hotel. The landing-places of the steamers of the Upper and Lower Rhine are nearly a mile apart from each other. Porter- age is very exorbitant. Florins and kreutzers here come into use (Sect. VIII.) ; but Prussian dollars are also current. Mayenee, the Moguntiacum of the Ro- mans, belongs to the Grand Duke of Hesse-Darmstadt, and is the most con- siderable and important town in his dominions ; but, as the chief and strong- est fortress of the German Confedera- tion, it is garrisoned by Prussian and Austiian troops in nearly equal num- bers, and is commanded by a governor elected alternately fi'om either nation ; for a period of five years. It lies on the j 1. bank of the Rhine, nearly opposite j the junction of the Main. It has 36,600 \ inhab., and 8000 men garrison. I Upon the Quai, where the steamer ■, stops, are 3 large red buildings — the I Eurfiirstliche Schloss, or ancient Palace cf the Electors of Mayenee, now con- verted into a Museum ; the Grossherzog- liche Schloss, originally Dentsckes Haus I (Teutonic House). It seiwed as a resi- ! dence for Napoleon, and has now become I the palace of the governor of the fortress, j and the Arsenal. I The most remarkable obj ects in Mainz I are — the Cathedral, a vast building of red sandstone, blocked up on all sides ' but the E. by mean houses, less inter- esting for any beautj* of architectui'e (as it is built in the massive roxmd-arched [ style) than for its great antiquity, hav- ' ing been begun in the 10th and finished in the 11th cent. ; but the date of the : oldest parts now remaining, viz. the E. choir, transept, and nave, may be re- i ferred to the period intervening between ' 978 and 1137. The building, however, i has suffered so much at different times fi-om conflagrations, fr'om the Prussian I bombardment of 1793, and aftenvards \ (1813) from having been converted into i a barrack and magazine by the French, that the only portion of the oiiginal structure remaining in a tolerably per- I feet state is that behind the altar at the I E. end (978—1009). The octagonal tower (Pfan-thurm) at the E. end has ! been surmounted with a cupola of cast- iron 70 ft. high, designed by Moller. I This ch., as well as those of Worms, Treves, and Spire, has a double choir j and high altars both at the E. and W. i ends, and 2 transepts. The W. choir I dates from 1 200—1239 : the side chapels i on the X. side were added 1291, those I on the S. 1332. The most beautiful of them, that of All Saints, containing a very fine window, was built 1317. The 1 double chapel of St. Gothard, adjoining 1 the N.W. transept, is a particularly in- teresting specimen of Gothic, on ac- count of the period at which it was built (1136). It is therefore to be re- gretted that, for the sake of a few paltiy I dollars' rent, it should be let as a leather warehouse. The interior of the cathe- Men. Pi EOUTE 38. THE RHINE (d). ilAYEXCE. 173 di-al is filled with Monuments of Episco- pal Electors of Mainz ; the greater num- ber, placed upright against the piers and ■walls, are interesting illusti-ations of the progress and decay of the temporal power of the German chiu-ch. The Ai'ch- bishops of Mainz had the right of plac- ing the crown on the head of the Ger- man Emperors, and are sometimes re- presented on their tombs in that act. That of Archbp. Peter von Asfeldt (1305 — 1320) bears, in addition to his own effigy rudely carved, those of the Em- perors Hemy YII., Louis the Bavarian, and John King of Bohemia, all of whom he had crowned ; but, while his figm-e is on a scale as large as life, theirs are only half the size, and appear like childi'en beside him. The Egyptians in theii' sculptiu-e resorted to the same method of giving importance to their chief personages, and Sesostris appears a giant among pigmies. The mommients best worth notice in point of art are the following, executed at the end of the 1 5th or beginning of the 16th cent. : Prince Albert of Saxony, 148-1:; Canon Bemhard von Breidenbach, 1497, executed with gi'eat truth of ex- pression and most delicate fijiish; Archb. Berthold von Henneberg, 1504, still more pure ia style ; Archb. Jacob of Liebenstein (15u8), and Uriel von Gemmingen. Among those of later date we may mention that of Baron Dalberg (1606), the oldest baron in Geraiany. Thi-ee other mommients de- serve mention on accoimt of the persons whose memories they record. One is that of Fastrada, third wife of Charle- magne (794), by the side of the Beauti- ful Dooriray leading into the cloisters, (date 1397-1412), lately restored. She was not buried here, but in a church now destroyed, fi'om which the monu- ment was removed. Another is the tomb of the Minstrel or Minnesanger Frauenlob, "Praise the Ladies," so called from the complimentaiy charac- ter of his verse. His real name was Heinrich von Meissen. He was a canon of Mainz cathedral, and so great a fa- vourite of the fair sex, that his bier was supported to the gi-ave by 8 ladies, who pom-ed over it libations of wine at the same time that thev bathed it with their teai"s. His monument, a plain red tombstone, stands against the wall of the cloisters. It bears his portrait in low relief, copied (1783) from the original, which wa? desti'oyed by the carelessness of some ".vorkmen. Amore worthy monu- ment from Schv:anthaler' s chisel was erected ia 1843 to the " Ladies' Min- sti-el," by the ladies of Mayence. On the 1. side of the nave is a red sand- stone monimient, erected 1357, to St. Boniface, the apostle of Germany, and fii'st Archbp. of Mayence. He was an Englishman named Winfi'ied, bom at CrecHton, in Devonshii-e, of noble and wealthy parents ; and became a monk in the Benedictine Abbey of Xutsall, near Winchester, in which, in the be- ginning of the 8th cent., he taught poetry, histoiy, rhetoric, and the Holy Scripttires. He left his country, -ndth 1 1 other monks, to preach the gospel to the barbarous nations of Gennany ; in the coiu'se of his mission he converted more than 100,000 heathens ; his mis- sionary laboiu"s, inteiTiipted only by 3 short visits to Eome, lasted more than 30 years, and extended fi'om the Elbe to the Rhine, and from the Alps to the ocean. He was created a bishop, but without a diocese, by Pope Gregory 11. ; archbp. and Primate of all Ger- many by Gregory III. ; and by Pope Zachary, Archbp. of Mentz, then first constituted the metropolis of the Ger- man chm-ches. Observe also the pulpit, a modem restoration ; the figures of the apostles are copied from those by Peter Yischer at Nuremberg. An ancient font of lead, foi-merly gilt (1328), behind the eastern altar, and the brazen doors opening into the Market-place (called SpeiseMarkt), on the X. side of the cathedral, also de- serve notice ; they were brought from the ruined Liebfi-auen ki rche , and are as old as the 10th cent. In 1135 Bp. Adalbert I. caused to be engi-aved on the upper valves of the doors an edict, by which he conferred various import- ant pri-v-ileges upon the to^m in consi- deration of the aid which the citizens, his subjects, had afforded him, in res- cuing him out of the hands of the Em- peror. They procured his release from prison bv seizing on the person of the k2 174 EOUTE 38. THE RHI^'E (d). MAIXZ. MUSEUM. Sect. II. Emperor, and detaining him as a host- age until their o"vm sovereign vas de- livered np. In the sacristj/ are preserved two very ancient chalices, probably of the 10th cent. ; one, the gift of Aix-hbp. Willigis, is a ciuious sample of Byzan- tine art. The Elector of Mentz, who was also Ai'chbishop, was premier piince of the German empii-e ; he presided at Diets, and at the election of Emperor, where he exercised veiy powerful influence ; so that one Primate, "Werner, on pro- posing a candidate, is reported to have added, '• I have others in my pocket." His dominions comprehended 146 Ger- man square miles, with a population of 400,000 souls, and a revenue of 1| mil- lion of florins. He maintained a body- guard of 2000 men and a squadi'on of hussars. The canons of the Cathedi'al, sup- ported by its enoiTnous revenues, lived a jo'\'ial life, as may be gathered from the answer they returned to the Pope, who had rej)roved them for their worldly and luxiu'ious habits : " We have more wine than is needed for the mass, and not enough to tiu-n oiu- mills with." St. Stephens Ch. (in the S.W. part of the to^vn), buUt 1317, has a nave and 2 aisles of nearly ecpal height : the clois- ter is of the 15th cent. It contains some old paintings on gold grounds and nvunerous monxinients. Iluse^'in, in the ancient Kui'fiirstlichc Schloss (close to the Rhine, and at the end of the long street called Die grosse Bleichc) . The collections consist of, 1 . Paintiu:,'-?, of no gi'eat excellence. The best works are, 1 . Christ and the Four Penitents, David, the Magdalen, the Prodigal Son, and the Penitent Thief, by Ott'j Vennh'.s ; 2. A CaiTuelite Monk receiving the dress of his order from the Virgin, A. Caracci. 3. St. Francis receiving the Stigmata (five woimds), Quercim; 16. Virgin and Child, Lo- renzo da Credi, the gem of the collec- tion ; 17. St. Apollonia, Domenichino ; 8. St. Andrew and St. Ursula, by Lu- cas van Leyden, or some old Gennan master. 20-28. The Life of the Virgin, by M. Griinewald, are curious: {ilso Adam and Eve, by Albert Diirery but so much injm-ed and painted over as to show few traces of the master. 2. An- tiquities, curious, because for the most part foimd in the neighboiu'hood, such as Eoman altars, votive tablets, and inscriptions in "which the names of the legions stationed on this spot are com- memorated. There are also several capitals of columns from the palace of Charlemagne at Ingelheim, in the style of Roman architectiu-e, being, h\ fact, the plunder of ancient buildings in Italy ; some frag-ments of sculpture from the venerable Kaufhaus, pulled down with- out cause in 1805 ; and a model of the double stone bridge which Napoleon proposed to throw over the Rhine here. The Tov:n Library is a verj- i-espectable collection, where are preserved some interesting specimens of the earliest printing. The Theatre is a handsome building designed by Moller, after the classical model of the theati'es of the ancients, in which the outer fonn bears some relation to the interior. The Public Gardens (die neue Anlage) outside the fortifications, on the S., be- yond the Neue Thor, and nearly oppo- site the mouth of the Main, are highlj' desen-ing of a visit, on account of the beautiful view they command of the junction of the Main and Rhine, of the to^vn of Mayence, the Rheingau, and the distant range of the Taunus. To add to the attractions of this spot, the ex- cellent miHtaiy^ bands of the Austrian and Pnissian regiments play here once a- week, Friday, betR"een 4 and 8 p.m. There is a cafe at one extremity of the garden, forming the favoxmte evening resort of the inhabitants in summer. Another good view may be had from the top of the Toner of Drusus, an an- cient Roman structure, believed by some to be the tomb of Drusus, son-in-law of Augustus, the founder of Mayence, whose body was brought hither after his death. From mutilation or decay, its base is now reduced to smaller di- mensions than the upper part, which may have produced in it a fanciful re- semblance to an aeom, and i>erhaps have given rise to the name Eichelstein, acorn, by which it is "snilgarly known. All the external and well-fitted ma- Rhen.PriLS. R. 38. — the ehine (d). mainz. e^vGLish church. 17o sonry lias long since been stripped off, and the passage for the staircase lead- ing to the top was di-illed through the solid mass in 1689. It stands \rithin the Citadel, but is readily shown by one of the sokUers. Excavations made in fonn- ing new fortifications have laid bare the foundations of the original Roman Castel- I'xm Moguntianum of Drusus, and show that it was an oblong square, with flank- ing towers, planted on the eminence overlooking the confluence of the Main. The niusic of the Austrian and Prus- sian military bands, which may be heard on parade almost every day in the -week during summer^, is remarkably good. Mayence has been from very early times a frontier fortress. It owes its existence to the camp which Drusus pitched here, which he immediately afterwards converted into a pennanent bulwark against the Germans. It soon became the most important of that chain of forti'csses which he buHt along the Rhine, and which were the germs of most of the large to\\Tis now existing on that river. Though reduced from its former wealth and splendour by the fortunes of war, and still showing, in its iiTcgular streets and shattered and trun- cated buildings, the eficcts of sieges and bombardments, it ought not to be regarded merely as a dull garrison town. Eiu'ope is indebted to this city for two things which have had the greatest influence in cfiecting human improvement — the liberation of trade from the exactions of the feudal aristo- cracy, and the Printing Press. It was a citizen of Mayence, Arnold von Wal- boten, who first suggested the plan of freeing commerce from the oppression of the knightly highwa}-men, with whose strongholds the whole Continent was overspread at the beginning of the I'ith cent., by a confederation of cities which led to the foimation of the Rhenish League, 1247. This same Walboten deser^'es to be held in grateful remembrance by every Rhine tourist ; since many of the ruined castles which line its banks were re- duced to their present pictui-csque con- dition at his instigation, and imdcr the energetic rule of the Emperor Rudolph of Habsburg, as being the haunts and strongholds of tp-anny and rapine. Mainz was the cradle of the art of Printing, and the birthplace and resi- dence of John Gensfleisch, called Gut- enberg or Gutemberg, the discoverer or inventor of moveable types. In 1837 a bronze statue of Gutemberg, modelled by Thorwaldsen, a Dane, and cast at Paris by a Frenchman, was erected in the open space op- posite the Theatre. The expenses (26,000 fl.) were defrayed by sub- scriptions from all parts of Europe. Gutemberg' s house no longer exists ; but upon its site stands the Cicil Casino, a club or reading-room at the end of the Schuster Gasse, the members of Avhich have erected a small statue of him. Gensfleisch (literally, goose-flesh) was bom between 1393 and 1400, in the comer house between the Emmeran St. and the Pfandhaus St.. which still exists, and liis/?/-^^ printing-office, from 1443 TO 1450, is the house called Hof zmn Jungen, or Fdrberhof. He was biu'ied in the ch. of St. Francis, now pulled do^vn : it stood opposite to the Hof zumHumbrecht, and the new houses of the Schuster Gasse now occupy its site. The English Church service is performed every Simday by a clergyman licensed by the Bishop of London, in the Lycee, formerly Jesuits' College. Xear the village of Zahlbach, about a mile beyond the Gauthor, are consider- able remains of a Human aqueduct nearly 3000 ft. long, which conveyed vrater to supply the gai'rison ; 62 pillars remain, but it is said to have originally con- sisted of 500. The reservoir vvhich it fed is hardly to be detected at present, in a small pond near the Gauthor, called the Duck-puddle (Entenpfuhl) . Excellent Hochheinier and PJ,lue vine may be procured at the house of Hoff"- man. Yon Zabem, bookseller, has a good collection of guide-books, maps, and prints. A bridge of boats, 1666 ft. long, over the Rhine, unites Mainz to Cassel, or Castel (CasteUum Drusi), a busy and flourishing faubourg, strongly fortified as a tete de pent. At the extremity of the bridge a bomb-proof block-house serves in time of peace as a ban-ack ; 176 ROUTE 39. THE AHR VALLEY. AHRWEILER. Sect. II. but in case of war the roof can be re- moved, and the upper platform mounted ■«atli cannon. There is a hea\y toll for carriages passing the bridge. Raihmy to Frankfurt in 1 hr. ; — to Wiesbaden by Biebiich in 16 min. — Trains 6 times a-day. (Rte. 99.) Eiluxi/jen daily to Dannstadt ; to Coblenz ; to Worms ; to Saarbruck, Metz, and Paiis. (Rte. 101 .) The excursions to be made from Ma- yence are, — to Frankfurt by railway; to Wiesbaden ditto (6 m.), \4siting the Chateau and Garden of Biebrich on the ^Yay. (Rte. 99.) Steam-boats go from Mayence several times a day to Coblenz and Cologne, twice a day to Mannheim during summer, and daily to Strasburg (see Rte. 102). ROUTE 39. THE AHR VALLEY. — REMAGEN TO AHR- WEILER AND ALTENAHR. From Remagen to Altenahr, 4 Germ, m. = 19 Eng. m. There is a good car- riage-road from Bonn to Altenahr, over the'hill direct, 3| Germ, m = 17^ Eng. m. ; going this road and returning to Bonn by Remagen, the excui-sion will occupy a long day of 8 or 1 hrs. Schnellpost daily from Bonn to Alten- ahr in 4 hrs., and to Treves in 18 hrs. The scenery of the Ahr valley is by many esteemed equal in beaut)'- to that of the Rhine. By means of excellent roads it may be explored ^^dth the ut- most ease and convenience. A carnage may be hired at the Preus- sischer Hof in Remagen, with 1 horse, to Altenahr and back, for 3 thai. Pas- sengers by the steamer mscy land at Linz, and, crossing the Rhine to Kripp, engage a carriage there, or start from Sinzig. The pedestrian may cross the hills from Bonn to Altenahr, by the Kreuz- berg, Ippendorf, Rottgen, and Mecken- heim, or, landing from the steamer at Remagen, after seeing the church on the Apollinarisberg may walk over the shoiddcr of the hill, and join the car- riage road at Heppingen. The road on the 1. bank of the Rhine as far as Re- magen is described p. 146. Between Remagen and Sinzig the Ahr in summer often di-ies up to a mere thread, but, swelling in winter to a furious torrent, enters the Rhine. A caiTiage road, turning oif abruptly at the bridge of Sinzig, ascends the valley along the 1. bank of the stream, passing through Bodendorf and Lorsdorf ; and under the basalt-capped hill of Lands- krone. The ruined walls on its sum- mit are those of a castle, built 1205 by Philip of Hohenstaufen diiring the war between him and Otho of Br^ms^vick for the Imperial crown, 1198 - 1208. Hence, during these wars of Guelph and Ghibeline, his troops attacked the Archb. of Cologne, and laid waste the neighbouring towns. It was destroyed by the French 1689 ; only its chapel escaped, partially built over a cave lined with basaltic colmnns, which serves as sacristy. There is a good view from this hill of the winding of the Ahr. Close by the road-side, at Heppingen, there is a mineral spring. Below Ahr^veiler the valley is tame and open, though rich and well cultivated. •2\ Ahrv:eiler (12 m. from Remagen by the carriage road, 9 j by the road over the hiU. Inris : Ki'euzberg ; the host has capital Ahrbleichart ; — Kai- serlicher Hof; — Stern, good), a town of 2500 inhab., whose chief occupation and wealth are derived from thcu' vine- yards, which cover the slopes of the valley. ArhweUer is the centre of the wine' trade of the vaUey : the average annual produce is 19,000 ohms=about 74,000 English gallons. The situation of the tovTD. is prettj- ; it is still sur- roimded by walls, and is approached by 4 gates. The church is a beautifiil Gothic edifice, with a treble chou- (date 1245-74). The town was burnt by the soldiers of Turenne, 1646, and suf- fered again from the French in 1688. The pictiu-esque Cakarienberg, on the opposite side of the Ahr, is crowned with a Franciscan convent, which has I been converted into an Ursuline nim- neiy, and occupied by sisters from Montjoie, who keep a ladies' school. The gate tower at the entrance of the town from Walporzheim is an interest- ing object, well preserved externally. At "Walporzheim, the first village traversed by the road after leaving Hhem'sh Prussia, route 39. — the ahr valley, altexahe. 177 Arh^reiler, the Bm*gundy grape is cul- tivated, and produces a sti-ong red wine, wliich is highly piized. — Ahrbleichait (?'. e. Bleich-roth, pale-red). Here the valley contracts, and is hemmed in by rocky cliffs, and the wild and beautiful scenery, which has obtained for the val* ley the name of ''Kleine Schweitz," begins. At Marienthal, to the rt. of the road, are the ruins of a convent. Above the road rise singidarly formed, jagged precipices, 200 feet high, from which an isolated block, called die h'.mte Kuh, projects over the road. A foott)ath leads over the hills from be- hind the village of Demau to Alten- ahr; "the carnage road, now conti- nued iminten-uptediy along the 1. bank of the Ahr, passes in sight of the pic- turesque "^"xllage of Eech, and under a rock crowned by the rtdned castle of Saffenburg, to Maischoss. The patient toU exerted in cultivating the vine on every accessible shelf of rock up the declivities of the hills aroimd is not siupassed in the most valuable vine- yards on the Rhine. Hiire and at Lochmiihle is the principal fishery of JRwnpchen (minnows), the Cyprinm jyhoxinus of naturalists, which are taken in baskets (like eel pouts) placed in weirs or dams of the river. They should not exceed an inch in length, and, hav- ing been cooked in cider and water, ari packed in baskets made of willow bai'k, which imparts to them the bitter flavour for which they are esteemed." The Ahr is also celebrated for its crawfish and trout, which, however, are taken chiefly in its tributary streams, "The rocks at Lochmiihle are low and nan-ow, and a passage has been cut through them by whic-h the road passes without fol- lowing the -windings of the river round the projecting hill, but rejoins it on the other side of the cutting. The road then makes a nearly semicircular sweep along the river-side, being supported on a wall washed by it." — T. H. Before reaching Altenahr a most striking scene opens out : precipices of slate rock rise round to a height of 350 ft., partly wooded, partly covered -with vines, and on their highest peak are perched the ruins of the Castle of Alt- enahr, the finest object in the whole valley. A footpath strikes off to the rt. above Eeimcrzhofen, and leads to the Cross, the best point of vievr in the vaUey, whence the castle is well seen. A path on the opposite side leads up to the castle, or down into Altenahr. The traveller shoiild send on his caniage from this to Altenahi-, and walk up to the cross. The precipitous rock, crowned by the castle, seems to deny all passage up the valley ; the river sweeps round its base, and forms so complete a ciu-ve, that, after a coiu'se of a mile and a half, it almost returns to the same point. A tunnel 192 ft. long has been cut through the rock to allow the passage of the road. If Altenahr {Inns: Uh-ich's, at the entrance of the town, and Caspaii's are good and clean) is a village of 400 inhab. Ascend to the ruined Castle of Altenahr, above the town ; the view will richly reward th« trouble of the ascent. The traveller should then ascend the hill on the W. side of the valley, be- yond the bridge of Altenahr, in order to command a full prospect of the wind' ing course of the Ahr ; the path, how- ever, is steep. Travellers having come to Altenahr in a caiTiage, or being unable to walk, will of coiu'se retrace their steps to the Rhine. A moderately good walker may cross the hills by a bridle-road, which, by the dii-ections given below, he can easily find without a guide, pro\'ided he can speak a little German, fi-om the vale of the Ahr to the abbey of Laach (7 stunden=20 miles) (Rte. 40";, v.-hence he should retm-n to the Rhine thi'ough the pretty valley of Brohl, which ought not to be missed. The carriage road from Altenahr up the valley proceeds by way of Alten- burg, situated tmder a singular isolated rock, formerly cro-^Tied by a castle of the lords of the Ahr. The castle of Kreuzberg, with the village of the same name, presents a striking point of ^-iew, and the chmxh of Piitzfeld, perched up in the rocks, with a singu- larly high steeple, is also very pictur- esque. " The road continues through Bi-iick and HiJnningen to Diimpelfeld, where the Adenau faUs into the Ahr, 178 ROUTE 40. THE LOWER EIFEL. LAKE OF LAACH. Sect. 11. and the tfaveller proceeding to Treves quits that river. The carriage road ceases at 2 1 Adenaii, a to"«'n of 1200 inhab., on one of the tributaries of the Ahi', under the mountain called Hohe Acht, 2-434 ft. above the sea, and from which there is a fijie view. Adenau itself contains nothing worth notice ; but not far distant are the niins of the castle of jS'iirherg, the finest and most extensive feudal stronghold in the Eifel. From hence the traveller may find his way to Mayen (p, 180), passing another old castle, Vimeburg, whose lords in ancient days, besides other possessions, were the proprietors of 23 villages. The traveller proceeding on foot to the Abbey of Laach from Altenahr should proceed up the valley on the road to Adenau by Altenbm-g and Ptitz- feld to Briick, and there turn to the eastward along the Hurein brook or Kesselingerthal, He need not go along the road as far as Biiick ; but may, if he pleases, cross the shoulder of the hill above Putzfeld into the Kesseling val- ley. Proceed up this valley through Kesseling (2 hrs. from Altenahr) and Staftel; a little beyond which latter place, where a brook comes down a valley and falls into the Hurein, tiu-n to the right, i. e. the S., and, skirt- ing along the side of the hill to the E. of the brook, proceed to Xieder-Hecken- bach. At the sign-post in this village turn to the left to Ober-Heckenbach, and so on to Hannebach. In passing over the high ground bet^'een these two places there is a fine view of the seven mountains ; and just after leaving Hannebach, the castle of Olbriick is seen standing out boldly on the left. From Hannebach proceed over the ridge to Engeln, thence over the high land in a S.E, direction to two crosses, or rather a broken cross, where the rt.-hand road leads to Mayen, and that on the left to Laach. About f hr. further on, a sign- post at the entrance of a beech wood points with one of its arms to Laach ; plunge boldly into the wood, and after a short walk the lake and abbey biu'st upon you. EOUTE 40. THE LOWER EIFEL. BROHL TO THE LAKE OF LAACH, MAYEN, AXD LCT- ZERATH. The traveller may leave the Ehine at Brohl or Andemach (see p. 147). Suppose he starts for Brohl (where Xurm's imi is good), a cross-road, but calciilated for light carriages, ascends the beautiful valley of Brohl, passing in succession Xippes, a hamlet named from the Dutch Xieuwe Huis, the paper- mill and trim garden of M. Fuchs, the Trass mills and quanies, the Castle of Sch'xeppenhurg, once belonging to the counts of Mettemich, beneath which are many spacious halls and cavernous chambers hollowed out of the rocks. Some way higher up the valley issues forth the spring of Tonnissteia (\~ stunde), whose agreeable mineral water resembles those of Selters, but is more efiervescent. Mixed ^-ith Rhenish -v^-ine and sugar it is very palatable. Xear the spring stood an ancient Carmelite convent, ahnost concealed beneath clifis of tuff'-stone and slate : it was demo- lished, and the materials sold for their value, in 1829. Xumerous jets of carbonic gas issue out of the rocks in this neighboiu-hood, some of which have been ingeniously collected by the owner of a chemical manufactory^, and are employed in his works. Oui- path here tm-ns out of the Brohlthal, diverging to the 1. into a side valley. The scenery of the pretty winding valley is veiy pleasing as far as I Wasseaach, a small village (6 m. fi-om Brohl), lying at the foot of the hills, whose interior includes the lake of Laach, and ha^dng an humble inn, Laacher Hof, where pike from the lake may generally be had. A continued ascent of about 1 m. from the village leads to the margin of the Laacher See, a very singvdar lake, of a nearly circular fonn, supposed to occupy the' crater of an extinct volcano, and nearly resem- bling the crater lake of Bolsena, in Italy. It lies QQQ ft. above the Ehine, is about 1| m. long, and about 1^ broad, its area being 1300 acres. The depth is great, increasing towards the Rhemsh Prussia. route 40. — the lower eifel. laach. 179 centre, where a phimb-line sinks to 2 1-4 ft. There is a popular notion similar to that attached to the kkc Avemiis, in Italy, that no bu'd can fly over the Laacher See, in consequence of the poi- sonous vapoiu's arising from it. This belief seems to have originated fi'om the eu'ciimstanoe that a jet of carbonic aeid gas issues fi-om a scarcely percept- ible opening on the N. E. side of the lake. It is the only remaining symp- tom of the volcanic action once so powerful in this district. Bodies of birds, squirrels, bats, toads, 40 ft. high, by natural seams or fissiu'cs, and some of" them arc left to support the roof. The small additional expense of torches to light up these caverns will be well repaid. Their temperature is icv cold. k3 180 ROUTE 41. COBLEXZ TO TREVES. MDNSTER. Sect. II. From Mendig (where there is no good inn) the traveller may return to the hanks of the Ehiae at Andemach (6 m.) by a had road. There are, however, many other objects of interest, both for the lover of the pictiu-esque and for the geologist, in this district. About 2 m. S. W. of Laach are the cave-like excavations of BeU, whence oven-stone (pieiTc au four) is obtained. The dii-ect road fi-om Mendig to Cob- lenz (14 m.) passes the Ch. of St. Genovefa. A tolerable road leads from Mendig to Mayen, along the banks of the Xette, passing the interesting and well-pre- served castle of Burresheim, under the Hoch Simmer, a volcanic mountain. There are many other fine old rained castles in the Eifel, as Yu-neburg, 01- briick, a noble ancient foiiress : its donjon measures 45 ft. by 30 at its base, and it has a tower 170 feet high. Wer- nerseck and Manderscheid (p. 197) are two more remarkable castles. Mayen {Imis : Post ; — Stem, com- fortable) is a picturesque and ancient town, 6 m. fi'om Laach, thi'ough Bell and Ettringen, with a castle surrounded by walls and gardens. There are many millstone quanies near it. Schmllpost daily to Coblenz. From Mayen the traveller has the choice of the following routes : — 1. By Polch to Mlinster-Maifeld, Schloss Elz, Treis, and Garden, where he will find himself in the most beautiful spot on the Moselle, and may ascend that river to Treves, or descend to Coblcnz. Starting from Mayen very early in the morning, and proceeding through CoUig to Pillig and Schloss P^Tmont in a car- riage, the traveller may, after inspect- ing Schloss Pyrmont, walk across the countiy to Schloss Elz, see that, and, descending the valley of the Elz, reach Moselkem in time for the steamer de- scending to Coblenz. 2. The high post- road to Treves and Coblenz (Rte. 41). 3. If he take an interest in geology, he may proceed by a rough cross-road to the mountain called " Hohe Acht," near Kalebora, 2200 feet above the sea, com- manding from its simamit a most exten- sive view. He will find a road leading thence to Liitzerath and Bertrich (p. 181), to Ahrweiler (p. 176), and to the Upper Eifel (p. 196> EOUTE 41. COBLENZ TO TREVES — BERTRICH. lof Pruss. m. = 71 Eng. m. Schnellpost daily in 16 hours ; with extra post the distance may be travelled easily in 12. The road, though very hilly, is good, and the coimtry (especi- ally in the neighbourhood of Liitzerath) not unpicturesque. "SVithin a short dis- tance, between the road and the Moselle, there are some channing scenes. As there is no post-road along the banks of the MoseUe, the best way to explore its beauties is to ascend or descend it in the steamer (p. 187). Upon the first stage from Coblenz to Treves lie many unimportant villages ; but the fii-st of them, Mettemich, gives its name to a family now known aU over Europe. [Twice a week the schnellpost, in- stead of passing through Polch, makes a slight detoui' by the little town of Mayen, 3^ G. m. (Ete. 40) to Kaiser- sesch, If m.] 3A Polch. [The small to-^-n of Miinster-Maifeld {Inn: Bey Canaris) Hes on the left of the road, about b m. off, in a beautiful situation. By some it is said to have been the birthplace of Caligula {}) The Ch. of St. Martin., standing on a Roman foundation, " is handsome in the interior, though plain. It contains a marble group, nearly life-size, of the Deposition, and 2 fine sculptui-ed Tr}-p- tychs, or folding altar-pieces, painted. The W. end is quite castellated." — F. S. About 3 m. distant, in the midst of one of the most pictiu-esque of all the tributary valleys of the MoscUe, stands the vciy interesting old Castle of Elz., described in Ete. 42. The castle is about 3 m. distant from the Moselle. About 3 m. higher up the vaUey is another ca.stle,Fyrmont., in ruins, having been burat b)^ the Swedes in 1641 ; near it is a cascade.] Halfway between Kehrig and Dun- genheim the road crosses the picturesque valley of the Elz. The traveller coming from Treves, Rhenish Prussia. KOUTE 41. BERTEICH. 181 and wishing to explore the Loirer Eifcl (Rte. 40), would turn off to the left at Kehrig, towards Mayen, instead of proceeding at once to Coblenz. 2^ Kaisersesch. Cross the picturesque Martenthal. 2^ Liitzerath. Inn : Post ; not good. A public carriage goes daily from Liitzerath to Alf on the Moselle : it belongs to the postmaster, who is also postmaster at Alf. He runs another carnage to Dreis. See Ete. 44. This is the best starting-point for an cxcm-sion to the volcanoes of the Upper Eifd. (Rte. 45.) [An excellent road leads through most interesting scenery from Liitzerath to Alf on the ]Moselle, about 10 m., pass- ing the veiy retired Baths of Bertrich, n^rly half-way. They lie in the depths of the narrow valley of the lies, or Issbach, distinguished for its sinuosities, which present a succession of scenes, varying every few yards, and for the umbrageous foliage of the woods, which clothe its sides from top to bottom. Just before the road descends into the valley, it passes near the Falkenlei, a conical hill cut in two as it were, crested wdth basalt, in the crannies of which the falcons nestle. It was probably a vol- canic crater, from which a stream of basalt, occupying the lower part of the valley above the slate rocks which form its sides, may have issued, though the lava ciurent has not been absolutely traced to this source. Its gloomy cre- vices and grottoes, glazed M-ith black, are v'eU v:orth exploring. A mile farther, at the junction of a little rivulet with the Iss, another basaltic current entei-s the valley. It appears to have been cut through by the stream, which, falling in a small cascade, has laid open a singular* grotto, the sides, roof, and floor of which consist of small basaltic colunms, worn away at the joints, so as to re- semble cheeses. This has obtained for the cave its common name of cheese cellar (Kasekeller). The junction of the clay-slate and lava is very distinctly seen in the bed of the rivulet. The Baths of Bertrich consist of an assem- blage of inns and boarding-houses (among which Werling's Inn, the Ktir- haus, is very good), in a romantic and retired spot, shut in by hills, and al- most canopied by woods, intersected by agreeable walks. The v.-aters are wanii (90^ Fahr.) and sulphurous. The sea- son lasts till August ; but Bertiich is a quiet rather than fashionable water- ing place, and its accommodations are homely compared with Baden or "Wies- baden. It is well situated as head- quarters for travellers intending to ex- plore the MoseUe, The steamboat from Coblenz to Treves touches daily at Aj, a village at the junction of the' Issbach and MoseUe 5 m. below the Baths (Ete. 42). A capital road leads thither. From Bei-tiich to Treves, a rough but picturesque road, over the mountains, falls iuto the high road at Wittlich (8 m.) ; see below.] About 2 m. out of Liitzerath the road crosses what is called the Liitzerather Kehr {from kehren, to turn), one of the valleys peculiarly characteristic of the Eifel district, and remarkable for their wonderful windings and contortions. Every projection on the one side of it coiTesponds ^dth a bay or recess on the other, so that the sti'eam of the Ues or Issbach, which flows through it, driven from one side to the other by these ad- vancing and retreating buttresses, is seen at one time in 7 different bends or turns, taking at every bend which it makes an exactly opposite du'ection to that in which it had previously flowed. It is altogether a SLii2:ular scene. 2| WittHch (Lm^: Post; good), a town of 2200 Inhab. An exti-emely bad cross-road leads hence to Bertrich baths (8 m.). The descent into the glen on this side is very fine. 2 Hetserath.' Beyond Schweich the MoseUc is ci'ossed by a feny, and the road pro- ceeds by the rt. bank to Treves, passing, near the entrance of the io^vn, the Porta XigTa, or Black Gate (p. 184). 2| Treves (Fr. Treves; Ger. Trier). Lms : Trierischer Hof, very good; Das Eothc Haus (the red house), comfortable and Avell situated ; Luxemburger Hof. This ven,' ancient city stands on the rt. bank of the Moselle, in a valley of exuberant richness, surrounded by low, vine-clad hiUs ; it has 16,000 Inhab. An inscription on the wall of the Eotheu 182 ROUTE 41. TREVES. ROMAN REMAINS. CATHEDRAL. SeCt. II. Haus (formerly the To-R-n-hall) asserts that Treves -^as built before Eome — " Ante Romam Tre^-ilis stetit annis MCCC." AVithout giying credit to this, it may fairly be considered the oldest city in Germany. Julius Caesar, when he iirst led the Roman armies into this part of Europe, foimd Treves (b. c. 58) the flourishing capital of a poTver- ful nation, the Treviri, who, as allies of the Romans, rendered them gi-eat as- sistance in conquering the neighboui'ing tribes. The Empr. Augustus esta- blished here a Roman colony, under the name of Ang^Ma Treviroram, and be- stowed on it the privileges of ha^dng a senate and magistrates of its ovvti. It became the capital of First Belgic Gaul (which, it must be remembered, com- prised not only Gaid, properly so called, but the whole of Spain and Britain) ; and in later times it was the residence of the emperors ConstantitLs, Constantino the Great, Juhan, Yalen- tinian, Yalens, Gratian, and Theodosius, and became so eminent in commerce, manufactures, wealth, and extent, and withal so advanced in learning and the arts, that Ausonius the poet, who lived here, calls it the second metropolis of the empire. It was indeed the capital of the Roman empire X. of the Alps. Although almost annihilated during the invasion of the Goths, Hims, and Van- dals, it arose to a height of splendour nearly equalling its former state, imder the nile of the Archbishops of Treves, who were Princes and Electors of the empire. Many of them seem to have aimed more at temporal than spiritual sway. They maintained large annies, which, after the fashion of the times, they dad not scniple to lead in person, clad in armour. The ambition and talents of many of these episcopal i-ulers increased theii- dominions so much as to obtain for them considerable political in influence Germany. Treves was taken by the English under Marlborough in the '^''ar of the Succession, 1702-4; and at the French Revolution suffered the usual fortune of ha^-ing its churches and convents stripped of their wealth, and the buildings turned into stables or warehouses. Before that event Treves boasted of possessing more ecclesiastical buildings than any other city of the same size. Treves is at present a decayed town, owing the chief interest it possesses for the traveller to the Eoiruxa remmns still existing in and about it. No other city of Germany or northern Europe pos- sesses such extensive relicts of the mas- ters of the world. They are not, it is time, in the best style of art, and are remarkable rather for vastness than beauty ; and in this respect bear no comparison with the Roman remains in the S. of France or in Italy. They have likewise suffered severelj^, not only from the Vandalism of the Vandals themselves, but from the prejudices of the early Christians, who believed they were doing good ser\'ice to their reli- gion by effacing all ti-aces of Paganiana from the earth, jVIany of the buildings have been demolished, to furnish ma- terials for modem constructions. I In the market-place stands a pillar I of granite, surmoimted by a cross, raised ' to commemorate the appearance of a fiery cross in the sky, seen, according to an obscure tradition, in 958. The Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Helen is an UToguilar building, chiefly in the earliest Romanesque style. The semicircular tenninations both of the E, and W. ends are full of Roman bricks. Indeed the nucleus of the building is supposed to have been of Roman constioiction, and to have been built by the Empress Helena, mother of Constantino the Great, who deposited in it the supposed relic, our Saviour's Coat u-ithout seam ; which, after an in- terval of 34 years, was exhibited for 8 weeks in 1844 to 1,100,000 pilgrims ! The first historical mention of it is in 1190; a full account has been pub- lished by Prof. Marx, of Treves. The original building of Helena is supposed to have consisted of 9 arches supported in the centre by 4 colossal pillars of granite ; 3 of these stUl exist in their place ; indeed, all the 4 Corinthian ca- pitals are visible in the interior of the church. The fourth gave way, and, to prevent the total destruction of the building, its place was supplied by a square pier of masonry, and the others were walled up by Archbp. Poppo, who Rhen. PriLS, e. 41. — liebfeauexkieche. palace, baths. 183 repaired tlie cliiirch in the llth cent. This fractiu'ed column lies at present on the outside of the church ; it must have been brought from a distance, — perhaps from the Odenwald. The E. chou' was added in the latter half of the 12th cent., and is an instance of the latest and lightest Eomanesque. The chui'ch T\-as roofed and altered about 12. J. The carving of the marble pulpit is good, as far as the mutilations caused by the French leave the means of judging. The seats of the choir are singularly inlaid with ivoiy and wooden mosaic (marqueterie) . A portion of the large funds derived fi-om the exhibition of the Holy Coat are being applied to the restoration of the Cathedi'al, which is earned into effect by painting over the marble and wood caiTing, and white- washing the stonework. The cloisters date fi'om a very early period. Adjoining the cathedral stands the far more graceful Church of oiu- Lady (Liehfrauenkirche), built in the most elegant Pointed style, between 1227 and 1243 ; and being one of the earliest specimens of pure Gothic, to be com- pared with the similar and contempo- raneous churches of Marburg in Hesse, Altenberg near Cologne, and the ca- thedi-als of Amiens, Salisburj-, and Co- logne. The semicirculai' portal is richly ornamented with sculptui-e, and the in- terior, in the shape of a Greek cross, is supported by 12 pillars, each bearing the picture of an apostle, A little black stone in the pavement near the door is the only spot whence all these can be seen at once. The moniunentof Archbp. Jacob von Sii-k is a fine work of an un- known sculptor. A doorv\-ay in the X. transept also is well worth attention. The portal of the Jesuits' Church is ven,- good. The Palace of the Electors and Bishops, a very handsome and extensive build- ing, is now a barrack. The principal staircase displays much rich and elabo- rate carving. This palace stands paitly upon the site of an enoiTuous Roman edifice, only a fi-agment of which re- mains ; the larger portion ha^-ing been demoKshed to make way for the episco- pal edifice, erected in 1614. This co- lossal fi-agment has been included in the palace, and goes with the vulgar by the name of the Heathens' Tower (^Eeiden- thurrn). It was probably the Basilica or imperial hall attached to the Palace, the semicircular termination or apse at the E. end having been the tribim.al ; and the whole perhaps at one time tiu-ned into a church ; as was the case with similar halls in Rome. Be this as it may, the gigantic proportions of this Roman edifice, whose walls are more than 90 ft. high, and 10 ft. thick, give a very good idea of the vast dimensions of the whole when entire. It is at the same time a mastei'piece of architecture ; as the bricks and tHes of which it is wholly composed remain to this day perfectly smooth on the sm-face, solid, and compact, and the walls, after the lapse of ages, are without a crack or seam ; but the King of Prussia has caused it to be cleared out and restored in its original condition, and to its former use as a ch. Additional in- terest attaches to these old walls, if we consider them as the favourite residence of Constantine, and that out of them issued the decrees which governed at the same time Rome, Constantinople, and Britain. In front of this bmlding extends an open space of gToimd, now \i5cd for di'illing troops ; at its ftuther exti'emity stand the shattered remains of the Baths, Thermae {BUder-Palast). Until within a few years they were included in the S. E. angle of the fortifications of the town, and were half biuled in the earth ; so that the windows on the fii"st story, being on a level with the ground, served as an enti^ance into the town, and were barbai'ously broken away at the sides, in order to admit the market- carts of the peasantry : from this the building got the name of the White Gate. Under the direction of the 184 ROUTE 41. TREVES. AMPHITHEATRE. BLACK GATE. Sect. II. Prussian government these ruins have been laid bare. They resemble, on a small scale, the Thermae of Caracalla and Domitian at Rome. Vaulted rooms, reservoir's, remains of a hypocaust, earthen pipes, and channels for the pas- sage of hot as well as cold water, have been brought to light, and seem to. ex- plain the original destination of the building. The massiveness of the well- tiuTicd arches, and the thickness of the walls, mil excite admiration at the skill of the builders who raised them, and sm-j^risc at the violence which has re- duced them to so utter a state of dila- pidation. Aboiit \ m. to the E. of the baths, outside the walls, on the road to Ole- wig, is the Roman Amphitheatre. It comes unexpectedly into sight, being scooped out of the side of the Marsberg, a hiU covered with vineyards, which but a few years ago extended over the arena itself. The late King of Pi'ussia purchased the ground, and cleared away the earth which covered it to the depth of 20 ft. It is interesting in an his- torical as well as an antiquarian point of view, as it was upon this spot that Constantino entertained his subjects with a spectacle which he caUed Prank- ish sports (Ludi Francici), and which consisted in exposing many thousand unarmed Frankish prisoners to be torn in pieces by wild beasts. He twice exhibited these diversions (a. d. 306 and 313), and the fawning chroniclers of the time have not scrupled to call it a magnificent sight, "magnificum spec- taculum, — famosa supplicia." So great was the number of victims, that the savage beasts desisted of their OAvn ac- cord from their work of destruction, and left many alive, fatigued with slaughtering. Those who siu-vived were made to fight as gladiators against one another but they are said to have spoilt the amusement of the hard-hearted spectators, by vokmtarily falling on each other's swords, instead of contend- ing for life. The arena itself, excavated out of the solid rock, and carefully le- velled, is 234 ft. long, and 155 broad: deep channels for water iim round and through the centre : they were supplied by an aqueduct from the stream of the Ruwer. Horns, tusks, and bones of various wild animals have been dis- covered in digging, and one or two cave- like vaults in the side walls were, it is supposed, the dens in which they were confined previously to exhibition. This Amphitheatre, capable of holding about 6000 persons, was of humble pretensions in comparison -with those of Nismes, Verona, or the Coliseum, as, instead of being suiTounded by several ranges of vaulted arcades of masonry, the sloping banks of earth, thrown up in excavating the arena, served to support the seats for the spectators. All traces of these have disappeared. The stones were probably used for building houses, as the amphi- theatre was long regarded no otherwise than as a quany. Archways of solid masomy flanked by towers (no part of which now remain) formed the main entrances to the arena at the N. and S. E. extremity ; in addition to which, 2 vaulted passages (vomitoria), bored through the hill, led into the arena fi-om the side of Treves, and still remain in tolerable preservation. One of them has been converted into a cellar, and contains the wane which grows imme- diately over it. It is commonly called the Kaiser keller (Ccesar's cellar), because it is supposed to have led to the Roman Emperor's private box. The other is not yet cleared out. The Roman Aque- duct^ which conveyed water to Treves from the Ruwer, still exists in those places where it passed under ground ; it was 3 or 4 ft. bi'oad, and nearly 6 ft. high. The part which was supported upon pillars across the valleys had en- tirely disappeared. The Black Gate, Porta Nigra (Schwarzes Thor), called also Porta Martis, is the most interesting monu- ment of antiquity in Treves ; and has all the massive simplicity of the Roman style. Neither its age nor use has been satisfactorily ascertained, but it is re- puted (with much probability) to have been built in the days of Constantino the Great, between 3i4 and 322. Kug- Icr, indeed, regards it as a work of the Franks, dating not from classic times, but from the middle ages. Its front is decorated with rows of Tuscan columns, its lower story is very massive, and it Ehenish Prussia. ROUTE 41. — teeves. bridge, abbeys. 185 may have originally been the entrance gate on the N. line of the city AvaU. Some have fixed the date of the building prior to the aiTival of the Eo- mans, and have called it the Forum, Capitol, or Council-house, of the Bel- gae ; but the style of architecture favours the belief that it was a work of the Lower Empu-e. In the lith cent, an anchorite named Simeon of Syracuse, who had been a monk in the convent of Mount Sinai, on his return from the Holy Land posted himself on the top of the build- ing, in imitation of his namesake Simeon the Sty lite. His ascetic and eccentric life gained for him the repu- tation of sanctity ; and in consequence he was enrolled in the calendar. Xot long after his death the building was consecrated and dedicated to St. Simeon by Archbp. Poppo. To fit it for the service of religion, he added a semi- circular apsis to one end, which still remains a curious specimen of architec- tiu'e, and formed 3 churches in it, one above the other, in which ser^-ice was regularly performed down to the begin- ning of the present century. Like most ancient stiiictiu'cs, the lower part of it, as far as the tops of the gateways, had become bmied beneath eai'th and rub- bish, so that the enti'ance to it was by a long flight of steps, leading to the fii'st floor. In this state Xapoleon found it on his aiTival at Treves. It is in- sinuated that a want of ammunition, as much as a taste for art, induced him to fi-ee the building fi'om its incumbrances, as he went no fuither than tearing off tlie thick lead from the roof, which he melted into bullets. The work of im- ])rovcment has been executed by the Prussian government ; the building has been divested of its ecclesiastical cha- racter, and restored, as far as possible, to its original condition, the eaith ha\T^ng been cleared fi-om its base. It exhibits various marks of the dilapida- tions of barbarous ages and people. The masonr}-, of vast blocks of sand- stone, averaging 4 or 5 ft., but in some instances 8 or 9 ft. long, rough on the outside, was originally so neatly fitted together, without the aid of cement, that the joints of the stones could scarcely be discerned ; but they have been chipped and mutilated at their angles, in order to extract the metal clamps which united them, and now seem to hang together by their comers. The interior ser\'es to hold a few shat- tered fi-agments of antiquity, of no great interest, dug up in the neighboiu- hood: the most curious pieces are, a bas-relief of gladiators foimd in the amphitheati-e, a mei-maid -fl-ith 2 tails, several earthenware pipes from the baths, and 2 Eoman milestones from Bitburg. Besides the Eoman remains already eniunerated, there is within the town (in the Dietiichs Strasse, not far from the Eothe Haus), a Tov:er or Propug- naculum, in an excellent state of pro- seiwation. The Bridge over the Moselle is most probably the oldest Eoman monument in Treves, and foimded in the time of Augustus ; it is mentioned by Tacitus, and the date of its consti'uction has been fijxed by a learned antiquary about 28 years B.C. It originally stood near the middle of the to^vn, which has gradually d-s\'indled away till it has left the bridge at one extremity. Having resisted the storms of barbaric invasion, and the wild times of the middle ages, it was blown up by the French during the wars of Louis XIY. !, In consequence, the only ancient parts remaining are the piers of large stones, brought from the lava quarries at Men- dig, near the lake of Laach. Many single blocks are fr-om 6 to 9 ft. long, 3 broad and 3 thick. There were anciently 4 abbeys at Treves, celebrated for their riches and extent all over Geimany ; but of their wealth nothing now remains, and even the original edifices, desti'oyed by fii-es and violence, are replaced by modem structiu-es. They are — St. Matthias, about a mile above the town, now con- verted into a school. The ch. (partly ancient) is actually visited by many thousand pUgrims. St. Maxirriiii, at one time perhaps the richest Benedictine monastery in Germany, is now used as a ban-ack ; it occupies the site of a palace of Constantino, but possesses no other interest. St. Martin's on the 186 ROUTE 41. — TREVES. TOW^^ LIBRARY. IGEL. Sect. II. Moselle is a cliina manufactory. St. Mary of the Four Martyrs., below the towTi, stands where the residence of the Roman Prefect stood, and where 4 soldiers of the Theban legion suffered martjTdom, according to the tradition. In the Gymnasimns Gebdude (formerly a University, now removed) is the Toicn Library of 94,000 vols., contain- ing many literaiy curiosities, the chief of them being the famous Codex Aureus, a MS. of the four Gospels Avritten in golden letters, formerly in the abbey of St. Maximin, to which it was given by Ada, sister of Charlemagne. It is bound in plates of silver gilt, on which are embossed figures in high relief, interspersed with precious stones ; and in the centime is a splendid cameo, said to represent Augustus and his family. There is also here Archbishop Egbert's copy of the Gospels, as well as other MSS., and many printed books of great value ; among them Gutemberg's fii-st Bible. There is also a large collection of ancient coins and medals, and Eoman remains, principally found at Treves. The Fathers of the Church, St. Am- brose was bom here, and St. Jerome studied here. The Environs abound in delightful points of excursion, fine views, &c. Pallien, a village on the 1. bank of the MoseUe, at the mouth of a ravine up which the road to Aix-la-Chapelle is carried, is worth visiting on account of the picturesque character of the rocky dell, of the vrater-mills enclosed be- tween its cliffs, and of its brick bridge of a single arch thrown over the ravine by Xapoleon. (Etc. 43.) On the height above Pallien stands a pretty viUa, called the White House : it com- mands a good general view of the vaUey of the Moselle and of the town of Treves. Igel, a small village, with an inn, about 6 m. from Treves, on the high road to Luxembiu'g, and upon the an- cient Eoman highway, is particularly deseiwing of a visit from all who take an interest in remains of antiquity, on accoimt of the lyel Silule (monument of Igel), a beautiful Eoman stinictm'e, standing in the midst of it, close to the road. It is a four-sided obelisk of sand- stone, more than 70 ft. high, bearing carvings, inscriptions, and bas-reliefs, but so mutilated in parts, that neither its age nor destination has yet been precisely ascertained. 4 or 5 different explanations have been given of it, and at least as many readings of the inscriptions by the antiquaries. One states it to have been raised to com- memorate the maniage of Constantine and Helena ; another, that it records the birth of Caligula, tracing some re- semblance between his name and that of the place, Igel. A third considers it to allude to the apotheosis of some person of imperial rank. The plain matter of fact seems to be, that it was set up by two brothers named Secundi- nus ; partly as a funeral monimient to theh' deceased relatives ; partly to cele- brate their sister's marriage, which is represented on one of the bas-reliefs by the figures of a man and woman joining hands. The Secundini were a rich and powerful family, who, it appears from the inscription, in addition to other offices, held those of postmaster and chief of the commissariat, and supplied the Eoman army with food, accoutre- ments, and carnages, which is further denoted by the figm-e of a chariot, filled with armour, kc, the subject of ano- ther bas-relief. From the style of the architecture and carvings, the monu- ment has been referred to the time of the Antonines : some imagine it to be- long to the era of Constantine. INIalte Brvm says, " the end of the 4th cen- tury." " It has great excellence as a work of art, and as a successful example of the combination of monumental architecture with sculptural decoration ; as a whole, its preservation is also re- markable." — G. C. L. Sohicllposts daily from Treves to Coblenz in 14 hours, to Luxemburg in 6 hours, to Metz in 15 : — to Bingcn (Ete. 46); and to Aix-la-Chapellc in 19 hrs. (Ete. 43.) Steamboats on the Upper Moselle between Treves, Thion\dlle, and Metz during the summer. See Handbook FOR France. Daily between Treves and Cobleaz. (Ete. 42.) Rhenish Prussia. ROUTE 42. THE MOSELLE. 187 EOUTE 42. THE MOSELLE. — FROM TREVES TO COBLEXZ. Distance, about 150 Eng. m. : — more than double that of the land journey, owing to the windings of the river. "SYell-appointed steamers daily : — up to Treves in 1^ day, starting from Co- blenz at 6 a. m. for Bemcastel, and proceeding on the folloTving day to Treves; down in 12 hrs., starting from Treves at 5 a.m. They take car- riages. Roic-hoats may be hired at every village to cross or drop down the river for short distances. Becker's " Map of the Course of the Moselle," and Delkescamp's "Pano- rama," may be useful. The voyage up or down the Moselle is a most interesting excursion ; 3 or 4 days may be very agi'eeably spent on its banks. This liver offers a new and pleasing route to travellers visiting the Rhine, who have hitherto been content to go and retm-n by Cologne, thus re- tracing their steps over groimd they have seen before. The route by the Moselle is equall}' accessible ; by taking it, they will add vanety to their jour- ney, and make a better use of their time. An agreeable way of seeing the lowxr part of the Moselle in detail in one day is to take the steamer from Coblenz up the river to any given spot of interest where it stops, just far enough to allow the traveller to visit the glens and ruins on each side, making use of a boat occasionally, and work- ing downwards, taking care to stop at some village where the dowTi steamer A^-ill put in to take up passengers. Thus he may go up to Garden, Aiken, take a walk to Ehrenbrn-g, cross to Gondorf, go up to Cobcrn, cross back to Kiederfell in time for the evening boat, and so return to Coblenz. The Prussian government has devoted a considerable siun to the improvement of the bed of the Moselle between Co- blenz and Treves. In order fully to appreciate the beauties of the Moselle, it is necessary lO land at certain points indicated in the following route, and ■\iew it fr-om its high banlcs. I The Pedestrian alone can reach by j by-paths and cross-roads, not passable for carnages, the finest points of ^iew ; at one time creeping along the margin of the river, at another sui-veying it from the heights above. In every village he may find a boat in which he may embark when tired, and may thus shift about from one side of the river to the other. By crossmg the narrow necks of land he may often save 6 or 8 miles, and reach in ^ hom' a spot that a boat would require 3 or 4 to arrive at. In making these short cuts, however, he may sometimes miss fine scenes on the river. The Iiiiis upon the Moselle are im- proved, but many of them wiU by no means satisfy fastidious travellers. ' Those at Bemcastel, Alf, and Carden ■ are capital ; at Zeltingen tolerable. The usual Charges at the Inns, seen and confii-med annually by the magis- trates, are, for dinner 15 S. gr., tea or coffee 5, supper 10, a bottle of wine from 5 S. gr. to 1 Th., a bed 8 to 15 S. gr., bottle of Seltzer water 5 S. gr. The banks of the Moselle, though on the whole inferior in beauty to those of the Rhine, by no means present a repetition of the same kind of scenery. It is generally of a less wild and barren character; instead of black bare ravines and abrupt precipices, it is bordered by round and undulating hills, covered not merely with -sines, but often clothed in rich woods, such as the Rhine can- ! not boast of. It is much enlivened ' with pictiu-csque towns and "tillages, of which there are more than 100 be- tvreen Coblenz and Treves, while ruins of old castles, watch-towers, and Gothic chm-ch steeples are not wanting to give a religious or romantic tone to the landscape. The Moselle is particularly remarkable for its very complicated windings, which in several parts of its coiu'se form projecting promontories, almost isolated by the liver. Some of the side valleys, too, which merge into the Moselle, are in the highest degree picturesque ; and the view of the ex- traordinaiy windings of the river, from the heights above it, are as singular as they are enchanting. The Moselle is not deficient in classical associations : 188 ROUTE 42. THE MOSELLE. TEARBACH. Sect. II. it is even the subject of a poem by Ausonius, written probably during his residence at Treves ; and traces of the Eomans may be discovered in almost every village along its banks, if not above gi-ound, at least wherever the soil is turned by the spade. The first part of the voyage from Treves to Bemcastel presents nothing of gi'eat interest : and it is not worth while to enumerate names of unimport- ant villages. 1. The tall chimneys in the recess of a valley, and the wreaths of smoke proceeding therefrom, proclaim the kon- works of Quint. rt. Neumagen is the Roman No- viomagus, where Constantino had a palace, the " incljiia castra Constan- tini" of Ausonius, of which few frag- ments now remain. The Church was built 1190, partly with the materials of the Roman palace. 1. Pisport (Pisonis Porta), Hain's Inn. One of the most famous vine- yards on the Moselle. rt. Opposite Dusemond is another vineyard, producing the capital ^dne called Brau'iieherger. rt. Miihlheim. Here the scenery improA'es in beauty. rt. Bemcastel '{Inns : Di-ei Konige, clean and good . fare, most comfort- able ; the landlady speaks English ; — JSTiederehe ; — the Post, not bad), a dii'tj^ town of 2000 Inhab., on the way from Bingen to Treves (Rte. 46), pictiu-- esquely situated imder a ruined castle perched on a ledge of the Himdsruck mountains, which here approach close to the Moselle. There is a ferry here. Travellers tired of a boat should by all means cross the hUls to Trarbach, an agreeable walk of an hour from Bem- castel. The distance by land is about .3 miles, by water 15. The inn at Trar- bach is bad. 1. Dii-ectly oyposite Bemcastel lies Cus. The Hospital was founded by Cardinal Cusanus, who was bora here, the son of a poor fisherman, and raised himself to that dignity by his talents. Attached to it is a Gothic chapel con- taining the veiy fine monument of John of Xeuberg (1569). The rt. bank of the Moselle is here draped with ^dnc- yards from top to bottom, (rt.) A little below Graach is the Priory of Mar- tinshof, now secularized. rt. Zeltingen. — Huber's Inn, toler- ably comfortable and moderate. This may be said to be the centre of the wine district of the Moselle, in which all the best sorts are produced. 1. Uerzig. Below this village, in the face of a taU red cliff called Michael- slei, a castellated wall is visible. It covers the mouth of a cave which once served to harbour a band of robber- knights, and afterwards to shelter a hermit. It was accessible only by means of high ladders. rt. Trarbach (the derivation of the name, from "Thronus Bacchi," is pro- bably fanciful). — Inns: Brauneberg, and Grafinburg. The best red wine of the Moselle may be had here. The situation of this highly picturesque but most dirty little town, of 1300 inhab., is very beautiful ; it lies in the mouth of a side valley, opening upon the Mo- selle : but it is not otherwise interest- ing, and its naiTow and dii'ty streets offer no temptation to penetrate AWthin its gates. A neat TownhaU, in modem Gothic style, has been built. The castle above it, called Grafinburg, was one of the strongest between Treves and j Coblenz, commanding entirely the pas- sage of the Moselle. It was the family residence of the noble Counts of Spon- heim, and was built in the 14th cent. (1338) with an Archbishop's ran- som. A long and deadly feud had existed between the Archbishops of Treves and the Counts of Sponheim, when, in 1325, the death of Coimt Henry held out to the reigning Ai-ch- bishop, Baldwin, the prospect of enrich- ing himself at the expense of the widowed Countess; taking advantage, therefore, of her improtected position, he made inroads into her domain, plun- dering her subjects, and laying waste her lands. The Countess Loretta, how- ever, was gifted with a manly spirit, i and was not a person to submit tamely I to such insults and injmy : so, calling i together her vassals, she boldly ex- I pelled the intmders with loss and { disgxace ; equally to the suiiirise and incUgnation of Baldwin, who little JRhemsh Prussia. ROUTE 42. TEABEX. ALF. 189 expected such, opposition from a female. ; The very same year, as the bishop -^as j quietly and unsuspectingly sailing down '. the Moselle to Coblenz, -vrith a small retinue, his barge "was suddenly arrested nearly abreast of the Castle of Starken- burg, by a chain stretched across the river belo^r the surface ; and before he had time to recover fi'om his surprise, armed boats put off fi'om the shore, and he Tvas led a prisoner into the Castle of the Coimtess. She treated her perse- cutor M-ith courtesy, but kept him fast •within her "waUs until he agreed to abandon a fort which he had begun to build on her territory', and paid down a large ransom. The finest sceneiy of the Moselle lies between Trarbach and Cobem. 1. Traben. — Inn, Hotel Claus, unpre- tending, but clean and moderate. Opposite Trarbach rises a high hill, converted into a promontory by the windings of the Moselle. On the simi- mit of it Yauban constructed for Louis XIV. (1681), in the time of peace, and upon German territoiy, a strong for- tress, completely commanding the river up and down. The pretext for this proceeding was the unjust claim lu-ged by Louis to the domains of the Coimts of Sponheim. After 8000 men had been empL^yed in constructing it, and an expenditiu^e of many millions of francs had been incurred, it was razed to the ground, in conformity with the treaty of Rys\\ick, 16 years after it was built, and a few broken walls and shat- tered casemates alone mark the site of Fort Montroyal. The view from it is grand. rt. Starkenburg, a village on an emi- nence, which once bore a castle of the same name, belonging to the Counts of Sponheim, and mentioned above. Its outworks extended down to the water- side, and some towers and walls still remain. rt. Enkii'ch, a village of 2000 inhab. ; near it are fragments of shafts of pillars, which go by the name of the Temple, and are perhaps Roman. On approaching (rt.) the village of Piindeiich, the ruins of (1.) JIarienburg, alternately a nunneiy and a fortress, appear in sight ; and from their posi- tion, on the siunmit of a high dorsal ridge, which the Moselle by its -wind- ings converts into a promontory, remain long in view. The distance to Alf, from (1.) the village of Reil, near which a steep footpath (Rothenpfad, from the red colom- of the soil) strikes upwards through the -vineyards across the Isth- mus, "is under 3 m. ; by the winding MoseUe it is a voyage in ascending of 1^ hoiu-. Travellers should on no ac- coimt omit to land here, opposite Piin- derich, and walk across the neck to Marienbui'g and Alf, which may be done in an hour. The view from the eminence a little to the W. of Marien- burg, called Frinzenskopfchcn, is the most surprising and pleasing that the whole com'se of the Moselle presents. It is a little like that fr-om Symon's Tat on the Wye, but is on a much grander scale. Owing to the excessive sinu- osities of the river, 4 different reaches appear in view at once, radiating as it were from the f )ot of the rock on which you stand. A waving amphitheatre of hills, covered with dark forest, occupies the horizon, and nearer at hand vine- clad slopes, villages at the water-side, and old castles, with the Fort Arras on the Issbach, to the W., are the acces- sories of this beautiful panorama. There is a little inn within the niins of Marienbm-g, where you may breakfast or dine. rt. ZeU (Koch's Inn, not bad) is a little town of 1800 inhab, opposite the point of the promontoiy on which Ma- rienburg stands, overlooked by a guar- dian watch-tower, 1. .\lf. (Inn, Bei Theissen, excellent,) Alf, a good halting-place for the traveller on the Moselle, is a village prettily situ- ated at the mouth of the winding valley of the Issbach ; above it stands the chm-ch, and farther up the valley rises the picturesque hill fort of Arras, which stood out for a long time, in 1 1 38, against Adalbert, Archbishop of Treves, who swore not to shave till he had taken it, and kept his word. 2 m. up the valley are the extensive iron forges and fur- naces of M. Remy, constructed accord- ing to the most improved English method. The iron is brought from Bendorf on the Rhine, the coal from the 190 ROUTE 42. THE MOSELLE. COCHEM. CARDEX. Sect. II. mines of Saarbnick. About 6 m. up this sylvan valley are tlie retired Baths of Bertrich. (p. 181) ; an excellent new caiTiage road leads to tbem fi-om Alf, ■u-here vehicles may usually be pro- ciu'ed. No one sboiild quit Alf ^^dtbout enjopng the very extraordinary pros- pect from the Prin^enskopfchcn near the Marienbui'g mentioned above — half an hour's walk. Soon after lea-vdng Alf there is a very remarkable echo. 1. Bremm, a wide and solitary spot, enclosed by huge dark hills. It is dif- ficult to guess how the river finds its way out ; indeed it has very much the appearance of the head of a lake. The steep slopes behind the village resemble somewhat the cliff of the Lurlei in boldness, but they are covered with \T.nes to the very top. rt. On the pretty (green meadow op- posite stood, until the time of the French Revolution, the nunnery of Stuben ; the massive wall of a ruined chapel, pierced with pointed windows, still remains. 1. There is a path from the village of Eller over the bills to Cochem, only 4 m. long. The windings of the river between these two places cannot be less than 12 m., but those who avail them- selves of this short cut will lose some of the prettiest scenery on the river. 1. Ediger is charmingly situated. 1. Senhals. Heimich's Inn. Little else than %*ines visible hereabouts, (rt.) Scnheim at alittle distance from the river. rt. Beilstein. Inn execrable. Tra- vellers should on no account think of stopping here. One of the most pic- tui'esque iniined castles on the Moselle, surmounted by a square donjon-keep, overlooks Beilstein. It belonged to the Electors of Treves, who deputed their noble vassals, the Metternichs and "W^innebm'gs, to hold it for them. The small village nestles at the foot of the rock on which it stands. 1. Cochem. — Inns ; H. de 1' Union ; Cornreichs; Eomischer Konig. The distant view of this ancient town of 2500 Inhab., guarded as it were by the 2 picturesque castles aloft upon the hUls behind, is most romantic and attractive. But let the stranscr be satisfied with admiring it at a distance, since, within, it surpasses in the filth and closeness of its streets all other towns on the Moselle. The Castle at the upper end was an imperial fortress; in 1689 it held out, together with the town, for a long time against the forces of Louis XIY., but being at last, after 4 separate as- saults, taken by storm, the greater por- tion of the gan-ison, consisting of 1600 Brandenburgers, and many of the citi- zens, were inhumanly put to the sword, and the houses and castle burnt. This ati'ocious act was ordered by the French Marshal Boirfflers, and executed by his subordinate officer, M. de Grignan, the son-in-law of Madame do Sevigne. The lower castle of Winneburg is lost from view as you draw near the town, being situated some way up the glen of the Endertbach. It is the most ancient family seat of the Metternichs; the head of the house at present being the late Austrian Prime Minister, who has repaired it and fitted it up. The large building seen above the spire of the chtu'ch, near the lower end of the tOMTi of Cochem, was originally a Capuchin convent, and is now a school. 1. Clotten, . a small A-iUage, with a chiu'ch on an eminence, in the gap of a vaUey overlooked bj* a ruined castle. Monotonous hills inteiwene for a con- siderable distance between Clotten and it. Treis, situated within a little amphitheatre of hills, from which, at a short distance fi-om the river, 2 castles look down : one of them, Wildburg, was won in hard fight by an Archbishop of Treves, in the 12th cent. An elegant modem church hasbecn erected at Treis. 1. Carden (Spikerman's inn, good and clean. N.B. No good inn between this and Coblenz) is a pictiu'esque old village, in one of the most Kvely situa- tions on the Moselle. The Church, con- spicuous with its 3 towers, was built in the 12th cent., in honour of St. Castor, whose body was bmied here, and after- wards removed to Coblenz. The ex- terior and E. end are in the Bomancsque style of architecture. AVithin, there is a curious antique font, and a repi'cscn- tation of the Entombment ; the figm-es are of stone, as large as life. xU the lower end of the to^vn, by the water- Bhen. Frusdi'a. r.ouTE 42. —the moselle, schloss elz. 191 side, stands a picturesque castellated building, vrith projecting tiuTcts, sirr- roimded by a red fringe-like ornament, and sm-mounted by peaked roofs ; but of its history nothing is kno^mi. " Be- hind it is a Eomanesque dTV-elling-house, of the 12th or 13th cent., free fi-oni alterations and inteiiDolations, "vs-hich has been unaccountably neglected by di-aughtsmen and antiquaries." — F. P. [A road nms from Garden to the very interesting old Castle of Elz, the beau- ideal of a feudal foi-tress of the middle ages ; but the -walk to it is still fm-ther shortened by landing at the village of 1. Miiden, from 'n'hich it is not more than 2 m. distant, but the way is not easy to find. A steep path ascends the hill, behind the village ; then, sti'iking thi'ough fields and orchards to a farm-house, reaches a pretty gi-een meadow, from which the winding vale of the Elz is visible, and out of which peer the singular peaked turrets of its castle, which no traveller should pass without visiting. The little stream of the Elz, remark- able for its excessive windings, almost encircles the tall bold rock on which the castle stands. A nan-ow isthmus of rock prevents its being an island, but this has been cut through, and over the ditch thus formed a bridge is thrown, forming the only approach. The banks of the river are thickly grown over "nith trees and brushwood ; and a second and rival castle, rising opposite to Schloss Elz, and within bow-shot of it, contri- butes to the beauty of this romantic valley. The Castle of Elz is a singu- larly' iiTCgular building, or gi'oup of buildings, adapted to the form of the rock on which it stands. The whole pile rises so abiaiptly from the preci- pitous sides of the rock that its pedestal appears scarcely large enough to hold it. The path leading up to the main entrance is cut in the rock, and is steep and slippery. It is the cradle of one of the most ancient and noble families in this part of Germany, and is an almost solitary example of a feudal residence spared by fire, war, and time, and re- maining in nearly the same condition that it was 2 or 3 centuj-ies ago. It has lately been repaii'od, and is inhabited. I The interior is a labyi-inth of passages, , tuiTet-stairs, and chambers, many of : which are of in-egulai* shapes. Many of the apartments are himg roimd with family porti-aits, having the same degree j of merit which similar subjects in I English coimtiy houses usually exhibit. j There are cimous ornamented fireplaces I (not stoves), and some rooms are paved i with monastic-looking tiles, -svith pat- terns impressed, not coloiu'ed. In one room there are a few pieces of armour, and one or two morsels of painted glass. I These relics, and old frirniture, tapestry, j (fcc, are interesting, as illustrating the mode of life of generations long passed away. The sti'eam of the Elz is seen from the projecting tmTets, flov^-ing in I its snake-like coiu'se in the depth of the ; wooded gorge 80 or 100 ft. below. The i rival castle before aUuded to, Trutz-Eh^ j on the opposite rock, was built to defy i the Lords of Elz, by Baldwin Bishop ' of Treves, who besieged them for many i months, and cutting off, by this counter ' castle, the approaches to their strong- : hold, at length compelled them to sur- render. They afterwards held this I castle also as a fief from the Bishop, I whose vassals they became. j About 3 m. higher up the valley ; stands another castle, Schloss Ptjrmont^ I biu-nt by the Swedes in 1641 ; and near ^ it is a cascade. About 3 m. N. of Elz I lies Munster-Maifeld. (Ete. 41.) j The Elz faUs into the MoseUe at I Moselkern, about 4 m. below the Castle, : but the path do-^Ti the pictiu-esque valley j is very bad, fording the stream, or I crossing it on stepping stones, 12 or 13 I times in that short distance. The easier i way to Moselkem is to cross the hill, I or follow the heights along the brink of I the glen, which command noble -^-iews.] i 1. Moselkern (Inn enlarged), a village at the mouth of the pictui-esque vale of j Elz. j 1. The Castle of Bischofsstein was a ! stronghold belonging to the Ai'chbishops of Treves. Its tall cylindrical donjon tower is gu-t round with a white streak, and a ruined chapel adjoins it. It was built 1270. 1. Hatzenport. Moritz's Inn. rt. Brodenbach stands near the mouth of the Ehi-enbach. The ravine out of 192 ROUTE 42. THE MOSELLE. ALKEX. COBERX. Sect. If. wMch it issues should by aU means be j explored. At fii'st gloomy and dark, it ; in a short while opens out, and discloses ' a lovely yalley ^vith green meadows, ! vineyards, and water-mills closed up in ; front by a rocky height, on the summit j of which, only 2 m. distant from the j Moselle, stands the castle of Ehrenberg, towering above the tree tops. It is a [ splendid monument of old times, still in ' a tolerable state of presei-vation ; as it , owes its decay to time and neglect, not j to violence. It may be said to sm-pass | in beauty any individual castle on the ! Ehine, and is well worth %isiting. It j now belongs to the v. Stein family. j rt. Aiken, an ancient town, con- nected by a chain of towers ■^'ith Schloss i Thnron^ one of the most pictru-esque castles on the Moselle, on the height above. It has two circular keeps, and the green ivy creeps along its walls, j It was built in 1209, and was held in 1246 by a robber knight, the Pfalzgrave i Zom. Having committed depredations j in the tenitory of his neighbours, the Archbishops of Treves and Cologne, he was besieged for 2 years by then- com- bined forces, who, during that time, emptied 3000 butts of wine. The gar- rison, having consumed all their pro- visions, suri'endered the castle ; but : Zom cut his way through the enemy, j 1. The village of Catenes is said to j derive its name from a chain (catena) I formerly stretched across the river at ! this point, to arrest boats and compel | them to pay toll. 1. Gondorf. The conspicuous build- , ing at the upper end of this village, by j the water- side, is the family mansion of the Coimts von der Leyen, another of ; the oldest and most noble races on the \ Moselle ; which numbers among its \ members many generals in the Imperial j armies, and 3 Electors of Treves and { Cologne. The building was repaired | in 1814, and has since passed out of the i possession of the Ley ens. i At the lower end of the -vollage stands ! a gable-faced house, connected with a ■ tall tower of defence, built 1350, and j said to have belonged to the Knights j Templars. A large quantity of potters' and pipe clay, obtained from pits 3 m. oflf, at Dreschenich, is here embarked, and sent to Holland, to form pipes for the Dutch- men. It is quite white, and of good quality ; it is dug out from beneath a bed of gravel. 1. Cobem. The heights behind this little town are crowned by 2 ruined castles — the lower, or Niederhnrg^ and the Oberburg. "Within the enclosure of the upper castle stands the very remark- able Chapel of St. Matthias. The way to it passes the new church, and the house of the pastor, who keeps the keys of the chapel, and "«all lend them to discreet persons. A steep footpath strikes up from a mill, through the vineyards, and behind the lower castle, which it leaves on the right. The view fi'om the top is fine, and it takes about 20 min. to reach it. St. Matthias's Chapel is an elegant little Gothic struc- ture, in the form of a hexagon, sup- ported within upon 6 clusters of co- lumns, each formed of 5 detached marble pillars. The exact date of the building is unknown, but the style of the architecture is that of the first half of the 13th cent., and its foimders are supposed to have been Crusaders, who caused it to be erected on their return from the Holy Land. This may account for the somewhat Saracenic aspect of its interior. AU the arches are rounded, except those which sup- port the central tower, which are pointed and slightly horse-shoed ; the lower windows are in shape like the ace of clubs. The effect of the interior is ex- tremely light and graceful, and this chapel deserves to be visited by all who interest themselves in architecture. It has been repaired by the architect Las- saulx. rt. Diebelich (quasi Diabolich) is famous for T^-itches, who in the middle ages were believed to haunt peculiarly this spot, and to hold meetings for mid- night revelry on the top of a neigh- bouring mountain. At the end of the loth century, a bishop, who had-wTitten a book upon witchcraft, caused 25 per- sons to be burned here for that crime 1 This is a pretty spot, surrounded by orchards and walnuts, with fine wooded banks opposite. 1. "Winningen is a Protestant village, PJien. Prussia, eoute 43. — aix-la-chapelle to teeyes. 193 though all around are Popish. A neat modern school-house faces the river. rt. Ley. At the breaking up of the frost in the MoseUe in 1830 this Tillage was hiuied nearly 30 feet deep in ice, which broke the timber framework of many of the houses, and entirely swept away several ; overspreading all the lower vineyards. (See p. 151.) 1. Giils, distinguished by its modem t^Tn sjDires, is surroimded by orchards, which furnish cherries and walnuts in large quantities for exportation to Hol- land. A veiy narrow and dangerous carriage-road has been completed along the rt. bank of the Moselle, fr-om Mcsel- weiss to XiederfeU. "WTien improved and extended farther up words, it will become equally conducive to the con- venience of the tourist, and to the pros- perity of the valley. 1. The spire of the Ch. of Mettemich is seen above the trees. rt. Moselweiss, a small village sup- posed to be the Yicus Ambitianus of the Romans, and the spot where Agrippina gave birth to Caligula. The tower of file church is of great antiquity, and is mentioned in records of the year 1209. Above Moselweiss rise the fortifications of Foi-t Alexander, one of the outworks of Coblenz, situated between the Moselle and the Ehine. rt. COBLEXZ (p. 151). Some of the finest scenery on the Moselle may be explored in 2 days, from Coblenz, thus : Take the steamer as far as Alf, and put up at the good inn there (p. 189) ; proceed thence in a post-chaise to the Baths of Bertrich, 3 m. ofi", where the Kurhaus affords good quarters : here dine ; and if time can be spared, proceed after dinner to the Falkenlei, and return to Alf to sleep. Kext morning rise early, and ascend the hiU called Prinzenskopf- chen ; then take the descending steamer and return to Coblenz, or, if time will allow, stop at Carden, and walk or drive to Schloss Elz and Munster-Maifeld, returning to Carden to sleep. Xext morning hire a row-boat to Aiken, and walk thence in 2 h. up a side valley to the interesting castle of Ehrenburg, retirming in time for the steamer to Coblenz, or proceeding thither by the carriage road do^\-n the rt. bank of the Moselle. A shorter exclusion may be made by taking the up steamer as far as Treis, in the morning, retiuTong by the doim boat in the afternoon. EOUTE 43. AIX-LA-CHAPELLE TO TREVES. 20 Pruss. m. = 93^ Eng. m. Schnellpost daily in 21 hrs. The accommodation for travellers is on a very low scale. The only tolerable sleeping quarters are at Priim, but they I are indiff"erent. I This excellent macadamised road was I completed in 1836, by the Prussian go- ' vemment, to open a communication ' along the Belgian frontier; its design seems rather militaiy than commercial. It lies through a coimtry wild and dreary in paits, in others veiy beau- tiful ; in all most interesting to an English botanist, who will find in the wild heath between Treves and Mont- joie, and in the latter town itself, some of the rarest plants of his own coimtry. The road on leaving Aix-la-Chapelle is carried under the Cologne railway, and past the pictm-esque fragment of a ruined castle, Schonforst, near which is a very IsLvge lime-tree. About 7 m. from Aix is the village of Comeli-Munster, with 750 inhab. The extensive remains of its ancient convent, foimded 815, by Lewis the Pious, are turned into a cloth manufactury. 2j Konigsberg. 2i Montjoie, a small town of 3000 inhab., on the Poer, manufactures much cloth. [Bauer's Inn is the best.] Its fine and nearly perfect Castle was almost entirely pulled down 1836. There are slate-quarries outside the town. The ^-illage of Kaltenherberg (1370 inhab.) lies at the foot of the moimtain range called Hohe Veen (Fr. Hautes Fanges, The High Fen). Their- high- est summit is 2200 ft. above the sea : this is a wild and sterile district, abounding in bogs and marshes. The inhabitants are chiefly "Walloons. 2~ Biitgenbach (Inn, Poste), a village of 500 souls. A cross road hence to Spa, by Malmedi (Rte. 44). 194 ROUTE 43. PRUM. ROMAN HIGHy\-AY. Sect. II. This stage lies over a -u-ild di'eaiy track, part heath, part forest, which is burnt for charcoal, to 2 LosheiBi, a small village. Its Church contains some relics : the cloth with which oiu' Saviour girt himself and chied the apostles' feet — a part of his winding-sheet — fragments of the skuU of St. Cornelius I ! Near this a good cross road, on the 1., leads from Losheim to Hillesheim, in the Eifel (p. 196). Here begins the chain of hills called Schneifel, Schnee Eifel (Snow Eifcl). 2f Prilm — />m, Goldner Stem; the best sleeping quarters between Aix and Treves, but indifferent. — D. G. Cheap and du-tv. Bed, 15 S. gr. ; tea, 8 S. gr. ; breakfast, 8 S. gr. This small town lies at the S. extremity of the Schneifel, immediately beneath a beau- tifully wooded hill, and has 2100 Inhab. Early in the 7th cent, the Benedictine monks fixed upon this agreeable val- ley, sheltered by hills and shrouded in woods, to build a monastery, which in course of time became one of the most wealthy near the Ehine. Its abbots had the rank of princes, and their estates lay not only in the immediate neighbourhood, but inPicardy, Zuti)hen, Guelch'cs, &c. Amheim and St. Gear were possessions of the convent. Char- lemagne bestowed large grants upon it. His natiu'al son, Pepin, became a monk here after incuning his father's displea- sure by his disobedience. The Empr. Lothaire retired hither, and also took the cowl. He converted his crown into a crucifix, which was preserved down to the time of the French Revolution, when all the property of the monastery was confiscated. A portion of the old convent alone survives, and is now con- verted into a school. The church near it, in the Italian style, and uninterest- ing, replaces the magnificent original church of the Abbey Sancti Benedicti ad Fratura (whence the modera name Priim), of which no vestige now re- mains. In the burial-fjroimd, outside the to-n-n, a stme cross is planted on the spot M'here the high altar stood. The walls of this edifice were pulled down to furnish materials for rebuilding the houses of the town after it had been destroyed by fire in 1769. The excur- sion to the Upper Eifel (Rte. 45) may be made fi'om Piiim. There is some difficulty in obtaining a carnage here, except from the postmaster. In 1837 i one with 2 horses was hired here for 3 dollars a day. The distance to Gerol- stein is about 12 m. The road is prac- ticable only for light carriages. Hereabouts the modem road faUs in with the great Roman highvay from Treves to Cologne. It is proved, by an inscription found at Marmagen, that Agrippa was the dii-ector of this, the greatest work of the Romans in their Rhenish provinces. It was canied through a country still wild and xm- peopled, but in their days as little trod- den as the backwoods of America are now. It appears by the Roman Itiner- ary^, that, besides numerous post-houses ! (jnutationes, for changing horses), there ; were 6 mansioncs along this line of road, [ sers'ing at the same time as military 1 posts, gan'isoned with ti'oops ; as hotels, in which the emperors themselves were accommodated on their journeys; and as stations of relays of horses for comiers. The first of these was at Tolbiacum (Zidpich, the spot where Clovis and the Franks defeated the Alemaimi), the last at Bsecte Mens (Bitburg). Accoimts have been published of a vast subter- raneous aqueduct, extending all the way fi'om Cologne to Treves, nearly parallel with the high road ; and it is j certain that remains of such a structure ' are still visible at 10 or 12 different places between the two cities. Con- sidering that both these cities were situated on great rivers, well furnished with water, it is difiScult to comprehend the use of so extensive a conduit. The writers of the middle ages, indeed, have not scrupled to affimi that it was intended to convey a sti-eam of wine between them ! The most probable exjjlanation of it is, that, instead of being one continuous water-coiuse, it is nothing more than a number of small unconnected aqueducts built at the same time, and probably M-ith similar materials, to supply different stations on the Roman road with water. 41 m. beyond Pmm is Schonecken, a small village of 1538 Inhab. The Rhemsh Prussia. EOUTE 44. — SPA TO COBLEXZ. 195 niins of the ancient castle stand upon a commanding height. It originally be- longed to the family of the Counts of Viandcn, who possessed the advowson of the abbey of Priim. It "R-as desti-oyed by the French in 18C2 and sold by them for building materials. 2i Balesfeld. BetAveen this and Bit- biu-g the road does not pass a single ■\-iIlago. The coimtry is a tract of high land, with a rough climate and a baiTcn soil, but aboimdmg in -woods, and fre- quently opening into beautiful %"ie"svs. The inhabitants ai'enideand xmpolished, their houses and persons alike slovenly, in proportion as the land they inhabit is wild and remote. They are also ig- norant and superstitious ; and, not con- tented ^^'ith keeping the usual holidays and festivals of the chiu-ch, almost eveiy village has a patron saint of its own, in whose honoiu: festivals are celebrated. Each saint is siipposed to have a pecu- liar province and to preside over some particular class of diseases. Thus St. Apollonia is invoked in cases of tooth- ache ; St. Blaize, to avert sore throats ; St. Lambert, to cure epilepsy ; St. Odi- lia, for sore eyes ; St. Lucia, for other complaints ; St. Gertrude is engaged to di'ive away rats ; and St. Wendelin is , looked upon as the protector of cattle. On theii" anniversaries the people flock in crowds to the chm'ches dedicated to these medical saints so rich in remedies, bringing oiferings not only of money, - but also of butter, eggs, pigs' heads, (fcc, which give the church the appear- \ ance of a market-place rather than a , place of worship. L'pon those days no ; work is done, and the evening concludes usually in drinking and gambling. I 2 Bitburg (//««, Poste, not good), a tOA^-n of 1700 inhab., anciently a Ro- ! man station, Bajdae Yicus. j [About 10 m. W. of Bitburg, within | the frontier of Luxembiu-g, but scarcely accessible by roads, stands Vianden, a ca$t!e exceeding in extent almost any on the Rhine, an ancient possession of the house of Nassau, seated on a rock above the river I'Our. It was in good preservation until within a few years, when it was put up for sale and im- roofed. It has a remarkable chapel in the form of a decagon. 17 m. S. W. of | [b. & K.] Bitburg is the ancient convent of £ch- ternach, also in Luxemburg. Its Church of St. ^''illibrod is a basilica of great antiquity. Its pillars, decorated with Corinthian capitals, may be relics of some Pioman edifice.] At Fliessem, about 3 m. from Bitburg, on the road to Priim, and not more than 5 am. from the road, is a Roman \i\la. It contains very perfect and beautiful mosaics and a hypocaust in excellent preservation, curiously illus- trating the mode of heating biiildings and apaitmcnts by the Romans. Two Roman milestones were dug up in a wood near Bitbirrg ; they stood on the ancient high road, a short distance fi-om the new post-road. They bear the name of the Empr. Hadrian, in whose reign they were set up, and the dis- tance marked upon them was 22,000 paces (M. P. XXII.) from Treves. Be- tween Bitburg and If Helenenberg there is not a single village ; but traces of the Roman road appear in sight from time to time. The very beautiful ch'/rch at Helenenberg (called also the hospital) is now tiurned into a barn. Xear Pallien, a village whose inhabitants live partly in caves cut out of the rocks, the road is earned over a deep ra^dne upon a bridge of a single arch, built by Xapoleon (p. 186) ; and a passage has been hewn for the road itself in the solid rock, for a con- siderable distance, imtil it reaches the bank of the ]MoseUe, immediately oppo- site the city of 2i Treves (see Rte. 41). The liew of Treves in descending is ver^- strik- ing. ROUTE U. SPA TO COCLENZ. 20i Pruss. m. = 93| Eng. m. Two easy days by post — to Hilles- heim the 1st day. The engineering and making of the road is very good, and, passing through a volcanic country, it is chiefly fonned with an excellent ma- terial — basalt. Though carried through a hiUy countr}-, the road is so well laid out, that 8 m. an hour on an aver- age may be made. The coimtry offei-s very varied scenery — hill and vale, L 196 ROUTE 45. — UPPER EIFEL. Sect. IT. beecli forests, heaths, com, and grass- lands. A gradual ascent of nearly 4 m., shaded by an agreeable avenue of trees, leads out of the yalloy of Spa, passing first the abandoned gaming-house and afterwards the mineral spring of Sau- veniere, situated in a clump of trees. Beyond this lies a high, level, and bare district of barren heath, resembling Dartmoor. At the viilago of Francoiu'- champs the road to Malmedi, tm-ning to the 1., leaves that to Sfarelot, in whose chiuxh is preserved the very curious Shrine (Chasse) of St. Bemacle. It is of copper gilt, ornamented with precious stones, mosaics, and statuettes of the Saint, the Virgin., and twelve Apostles, of silver gilt. It is probably a work of the 11th cent. About I5 m. further runs the Prus- sian frontier, where baggage is slightly examined (§ 47). A fine view is gaiaed on winding doM-n the steep hill, of red sandstone, from the table-land into Mal- medi. 2^ Malmedi (Inn, Cheval Blanc, an humble inn), a small town of 4000 inhab., famous for the manufactirre of sole leather for shoes, there being 50 tanneries here in active work. The hides are derived from South America. The Ardennes forest furnishes the best bark. The greater part of Germany is supplied from Malmedi and Stavelot, and many of the tannci-s are very wealthy. The fantastic houses and gardens, in and around the town, chiefly theu' property, are somewhat in the Dutch style. The most remarkable of them, Montbijou, lies on oiu* road a little way out of the to^vn. The road enters the great highway from Aix to Treves (Bte. 43), about 8 m. from Malmedi, a little beyond 2 Blitgenbach (Rte. 43). 2 Losheim, in p, 194. Here a road branches off to the E., passing under the ruined castle Kronenbiu-g, to If Stadtkyll {Inn, Post), on the road from Aix-la-Chapelle to Coblenz by Mayence, which is traversed daily by a schnellpost. 2 Hillcsheim {Inn., Post ; comfort- able, with ci^-il people, who make high charges), a curious oldto^\-n, siurounded by walls fi'om which there are fine views. From a hill near it a fine view is obtained of the Eifel. The country hence to Kellberg and Mayen presents fine forests and patches of beech, and some oak, with hills of volcanic forms in all directions. 3 Kellbcrg. — Inn, Post. A public caniage runs between the Ahr valley and Kellbcrg, meeting that between Coblenz and Losheim. Yiews of the castle of Xm-berg. Throiigh an inte- resting coimtry, passing many dome- topped hills — from whose egg-shape perhaps the distiict is called Ei-fel (r) — and near to the picturesque castle Yir- neberg, to 3^ Mayen (see Etc. 41 and 40), on the post-road to 31 Coblenz (Etc. 37). EOUTE 45. THE UPPER EIFEL — PRuM TO GEROL- STEIX, DAUN, AND LUTZERATH. The coimtiy of the Eifel Gebirge is particularly interesting to the geolo- gist, from the decided traces of volcanic agency which it exhibits in its lava currents, and numerous extinct craters, j many of them now filled with lakes or tarns. Apart from this consideration, the sceneiy of the Eifel has many fea- tures of no inconsiderable beauty and interest to induce the ordinaiy traveller to visit it. " The high groimd consti- tuting this tract of country is much diversified with finely fonned emi- nences, which are often conical or crater-shaped, and frequently wooded ; the valleys are remarkable sometimes for their bold and rocky sides, fi-equently capped with old castles, and conti-acting into nan-ow glens ; sometimes for their softer or wooded and verdant character ; aboA'c all, the great peculiarity' of the disti'ict is the secluded, often much concealed, and singidar ' maars ' or crater-lakes." — T. T. Meres in Eng- lish. The region of the Eifel is still the haimt of wolves and wild boars ; the former not iinfrequently approach hu- man habitations in the winter, and commit depredations on the flocks. The traveller visitins; the Eifel fi'om Rhenish Pr ROUTE 45. UPPER EIFEL. 197 Aix-la-Chapelle or Spa will proceed b}' the roads described in Etes. 43 or 44 as far as Priim (Rte. 43). A post- road runs hence to Bonn and Cologne. At Priim we may tiun aside to enter upon the district of the Eifel. The roads throughout it are almost invari- ably bad, especially in wet weather, and the coimtiy hilly. Gerolstein, where the tour of the Eifel properly begins, is about 10 m. fi-om Priim. It has a tolerable inn, with good beds, kept by the Biirgermeister (Schreiber). It is a pictui-esque town on the Kyll, in a valley running between cliffs of limestone and dolomite, which, more particularly on the X. side, often present precipitous and striking escai-p- ments, and peculiarly fonned, and sometimes isolated, rocky eminences. Above the town are the ruins of a Castle. An interesting exem'sion, and one that may easily be accomplished in a forenoon, is to start by the footpath leading to the clear carbonated spring at the bottom of the valley, to cross the river Kyll, and ascend the hill opposite (to the N. of the to-«-n). On the smnmit is a perfectly fonned diy crater called the Pfaffenkaule. The siurface of the hollow is now cultivated, but traces of volcanic action are everywhere apparent. A little to the "NV. is a stream of lava which divides into 2 branches, and includes a hollow space termed the Hagelskaule, Xear it, to the S., there is a considerable cavern, situated in the cliffs termed the Buchcn- loch, fonned by one of the numerous fissures in the sti-ata, but probably en- larged by art. Thence the field may be crossed to the Ice grotto of Eoth, in order to see which lights and a guide may be procured at a farm-house and inn near the ch. of Roth. In this cavern, which is a sort of natural ice- house, ice is always to be found during the summer, but it is said to disappear in M-inter. In returning to Gerolstein, the road may be varied by crossing the base of the Auberg, where innumerable fossil shells, corals, t walks, you may choose the Marten- Weg, on the further side of the Lahn, or the ffenrietten- Weg, and Mooshut, overlooking Ems, whence there is a fine view. Kernmenau is a fijie point of view at the top of the mountain behind Ems. The Eoman rampart called Pfahhjrahen (described at p. 213) passes along the crest of thehUls above Kemmenau, and, descending into the valley of the Lahn, crosses that river near Ems, and pro- ceeds towards Heinrichshof. Brauhach, and the Castle of Marks- h'lrg, on the Rhine, distant about 7 m., will form a pleasant day's excursion. (See p. 157. The can-iage-road runs past the Forsthaus ; a footpath at the back of Heinrichsbad leads through the wood to Becheln. The return to Ems xA^ ROUTE 95. — NASSAU. SCHWALBACH. 205 may be varied by descending the Eliine to Labnstein by a boat, or along the rt. bank, and ascending the valley by the side of the Labn to Ems. A visit to the castles of Xassau and Stein, 6 m. bigber np tbe Labn valley, on tbe high road to Frankfurt, is another particularly agreeable exciu'- sion. These i-uins serve as the rendez- vous of many a picnic paiiy. The Coni'ent of Anistein, and the Chapel of Winden, both commanding beautiful views, and only 3 m. above Xassau, may be visited on the same day from Ems. (See Ete. 96.) After lea^T.ng Ems on the vray to Xassau and Schwalbach, the road passes the old -walled town of Dausenau, behind which rims a footpath leading up the rapine and over the hills to Ems, descending at the back of the Kiu-haus, commanding fine views. The high road follows the windings of the Labn through a beautiful valley as far as Nassau. — Tan: Ki'one. 5 m. from Ems. A chain bridg'c has been erected here over the Lahn, on the 1. bank of which rises the old- and pictmesque Castle of Nassau, the cradle (Stamm- schloss) of the families of Xassau and Orange. It was built by a Coimt of Laui'enburg in 1101. In the 13th cent. the family divided into 2 branches, from the elder of which spiings the present Duke of Xassau, while the yomiger is represented by the King of Holland. The castle stands on the summit of a conical rock, and a little lower down is the less extensive ruin of the Castle of Stein, the baronial .seat of another veiy ancient family, who have held for 500 years thefr estates and castle on the banks of the Lahn as a fief from the Emperor of Ger- many. The present owner, the Grafin von Giech, is still of the same race, and resides in the modem chateau situated in the valley hard by, which is also sho^^'n to strangers, and contains ancient armour, trophies of the war, and other curiosities. She is the daughter of the enlightened and patriotic Prussian minister, whom Xapoleon contemptu- ously designated " Un nomme Stein." He had the merit of inti'oducing into the Prussian government those re- forms which have contributed lai-gely [ to raise that coimtry to its present 1 eminence. The minister v. Stein, the last male of his family, is buried at ' the A-illage of Friicht, 3 m. S.'V^''. of ' Ems. Agreeable and easy paths have been ! cut through the woods leading to and •] aroimd these 2 ruins. The views from i them, and from the Gothic tower erected ^ by the Baron von Stein on a command- ing point, are as pleasing as the ruins themselves are pictiu-esqiie. Strangers are freely permitted to roam about and enjoy themselves in these grounds. In short, a day devoted to a \isit to Xassau from Ems ^vill assuredly not be con- sidered misspent. There is a very agreeable walk from Xassau to Ems up the valley of Diene- thal, and by Sulzbach, on the S. side of the Lahn. | The beauties of the Lahn valley con- tinue upwards beyond Amstein (3 m.) j and Limbm-g (Rte. 96), along banks I decorated with pictiu-esque castles in \ niins, and smiling industrious villages. Beyond Xassau our road ascends by ' a steep hill, and quits the valley of the j Lalin. The view from the height, - looking down upon it and its castles, is * most beautiful ; but after that, adieii to picturesque scenes. The road passes , over a bleak ti'act of high land, very ; scantily peopled, the collages and habi- \ tations in general being snuggly nestled | in the narrow and steep ra-si-nes which intersect in all directions this upper | countiy. There is some fine wooded country near j 2 Singhofen. ] 1-5 Holzhausen. | Schwalbach, from its peciiliar situ- J ation, suiik as it were between hills, is j scarcely seen until it is entered. This i little town, though not devoid of beauty ' in its position and en^-irons, commonly does not strike the stranger with the frill admiration he had anticipated fr-om the perusal of the " Bubbles." Xot that the author's descriptions are in- exact, or even exaggerated, but that it requires a turn of mind similar to liis OAvn to elicit that pleasure which he derived from the objects themselves, and which his readers enjoy from 206 I^OUTE 95. SCHV\'ALBACH. SPPJXGS. Sect. III. Ills attractive and quaint account of them. 2 Langen-Schwalhach. — Inns: Allee Saal (H. du Promenade), largest and best situated, named from a shady avenue of trees close beside it ; daily table-d'hote at 1 ; in the evening the rooms serve for dancing on Sundays, as well as for music — in fact, become the .isscmbly-rooms. Xassaixer Hof, good and moderate ; table-d'hote at 1 . H. de TEiu-ope. H. au Due de Nassau, clean and good ; table-d'hote at 1 and 3 ; passing travellers are not readily received for less time than 14 days. Post. Lodging-houses : Pariser Hof, clean ; H. Poyal, foi-merly Beiden Indien ; Englischer Hof, where the author of the "Bubbles" lodged. At the lodging- houses there are no tables-d'hote ; but ■\dsitors can be provided with breakfast and tea, and have their dinners sent in to them from one of the hotels. Schwalbach (in English, Swallows'- l.>rook), though within a few years elevated to the dignitj' of a town (pop. 1800), has still the appearance of a long straggling village. AR the most considerable buildings are inns or lodging-houses. It is said to have been kno-\vn to the Eomans, and has for nearly 3 cent, been one of the most frequented of German watering- places (§ 41) ; but until the appear- ance of the " Bubbles from the Brun- nen" our countrymen had passed through it year after year without taking any notice of it. The beneficial effects of its sti-engthening and re- freshing waters will secure to it in future an annual succession of ^dsitors from our island. Already many thou- sand English have taken up thefr siuumer residence on the spot, each with the Bubble-blower for his guide ; and Spa, Aix-la-Chapelle, and other v/atoring-places have been compara- tively deserted by them in conse- quence. In order to enter into the spii'it of the Brunnen of Nassau, no visitor can dispense with the " Bubbles ;" he must take the book in his hand. Supposing every one to be furnished M'ith it, or at least to have read it, travellers are refeiTcd to it for aU general descrip- tions ; and the following short accoimt pretends to nothing more than the filling up of one or two points of in- formation upon which the author of the " Bubbles " has not thought it vrorth while to dwell. Schwalbach has the advantage over Ems and Wiesbaden of being more free fr'om bustle and formal resfraint, v.'hicli, with those in search of quiet and retire- ment, will gain for it the preference over these 2 wateiing-plaecs. In the height of summer the heat is excessive, and is more severely felt from the want of shade, the hills around being bare of ti'ees, and the plantations recently formed not ha^dng attained sufficient maturity to afford shelter from the sun. The season is usually over by the end of August ; it begins in June, The winter and spring are cold, and full 3 weeks later than at "NViesbaden and in the Rheingau. The town is appropriately called Long Schwcd'jacliy from the arrange- ment of its houses in one extended line. It contains a Boman Catholic and 2 Protestant Churches^ and a Synagogue for the Jews. Near the upper end of its long sfrect are situated the principal Hotels, the Promenades, the Wells (Brunnen), and the Bath-house (Bad- haus). The three principal springs, which supply water for (h-inking as well as bathing, are — 1. The Weinhnmnen, so named from some fancied resemblance to wine in its taste ; and, 2. The Staid - brunnen : both of these contain ii'on and carbonic acid gas in slightly va- rving proportions ; but the "Weinbrim.- nen is more largely imprcg-nated with steel than the Stahl (steel) Brunnen. — 3. The Pauline, a spring which has been more recently discovered, and is named after the Duchess of Nassau, containing less iron than the other two. The Pauline spring has been traced to its fountain head at the upper end of the valley, where its water biu-sts out in greater quantity, and more bub- bling with gas. The Badhans is a handsome build- ing, supported by an open colomiade, which serves as a walk in wet weather. JS^assau. EOUTE 95. — SCnWALBACII. EXCURSIOXS. 20: and as a siitlter for a great many itine- rant traders, who set tip their stalls here in the season. There ai'e scarcely any other shops in Sch-walbach. Persons who intend to make use of the baths should know that they ai-e much in request, and diuing the height of the season are occupied from 6 in the morning till 1 P. 'Si. Every hour of the day is bespoken beforehand, and allotted to some one or other, whose name is entered in a book opposite to the hour. Those who are not pimctual to their time rim the risk of losing their tiu'n. The baths on the upper story are filled from the Pauline, those on the lower fr'om the Stahl and Wein- brunnen, the waters being previously heated artificially. The price of a single bath is 48 kr., and the bath servant, who supplies towels, receives 4kr. The i water in which the patient prepares to immerse himself is, to use the " old man's" words, " as thick as a horse- pond, and about the colour of mulli- gatawny soup." Garments immersed in it contract stains as deep as red ochre, and they who immerse their heads will find that *' their pillow in the morning looks as if a rusty 18 lb. shell had been reposing on it." The qualities of the water, however, are bracing and strengthening in a high degree. The cU 'jfnal proceedings of the vi- sitors at the baths are nearly as follows : they rise as early as 6, and resort to ! the wells to drink their allotted po- | tions, keeping themselves in constant ; motion backwards and forwards be- \ tween everj' glass. The water appears I to produce a desii'e for walking, and \ the Wiilking is with difficulty carried \ on without the invigorating aid of the '. water. After 2 or 3 hi-s. of thLs ex- j orcise they have fairly earned their \ breakfasts. The business of the bath i will occupy an hour of the forenoon ; j and before dinner another course of j water is usually prescribed. The diimor-bell for the table-d'hote j sounds at 1, and the irksome ceremony : is rarely over in less than an hour and j a half: when it is concluded, the Gcr- j mans usually allow themselves a short time to ruminate, to diink their coffee, ; and to smoke their pipes. At this time of day the donkeys, the slaves of the visitors at the baths, whose lives are spent in canying, are to be seen in long array, ready to be engaged. The charges for horses, asses, and caniages are fixed by tariff, according to the length of the excui-sions. Donkeys, inferior to those at Ems, 36 kr. the hour. At 6 o'clock the ceremony of diinking the Avaters begins again. In the evening the AUee Saal is lighted up, and music on most days of the week — gaming at all times — serve to amuse the visitors. On Sundays the English Service is performed in the upper Protestant ch. in the Lange Gasse, soon after 11 A.:,r. The steep roimd-backed hills which hem in the town of Schwalbach and its Brunnen are intersected in aU di- rections with paths. From the summit of the heights a number of pleasing views are obtained. One of the most interesting is that from the little rustic Avooden pavilion which stands on the top of the hill, by the side of the road leading fr-om Schwalbach to Y»'ics- baden. This agreeable " point do ■vue" is not much more than 20 min. walk fi'om the Pauline, and those who fear to face the hiU on foot may make the ascent on the back of a donkey. About -5 an hoiu-'s walk fr-om Schwal- bach is Adolphsech, a ruined castle, said to have been built by Coimt Adolph of Xassau, before he became Emx^eror, as a residence for a fair lady, his favourite. The excursion, however, which sur- passes all others aroimd Schwalbach, is that to the Castle of IloJie-iistein. The caniage-road leading to it is dust)' and monotonous ; the better way is to follow the windings of the little stream called the Aar, on foot or upon donkeys, passing fii-st under the castle of Adolph- seck, and then threading the valley up- wards for a distance of 6 m. Its great charm is the variety of scenes it xm- folds, its changes at every turn, its openings and closings ; at times ex- panding into broad verdant meadows, then contracting to a naiTow strait with overhanging masses of rock on both sides. At last the ffi'and old castle of 208 ROUTE 95. SCHV-'ALBACH. SCHLAXGEXEAD. Sect III. Ilohonstoin appears in sight, in a rery romantic situation, perclied on tlie sum- mit of a Ligh Hack xJ^^cipice, and foraiing a termination of the vista. This imposing feudal stronghold of the Counts of Katzenelnbogen was taken and sacked in the Thirty Years' "War, and is no^v totally dismantled, though some precautions have been taken to preserve it from further decay. A ^illage composed of a fe\r poor cottages crouches at the foot of the rock ; and a small Inn -will furnish the traveller ■with a dish of troiit or cra^vfish from the "^^^iedenhach brook, or a bottle of sour wine, if needed ; but it is -vrell to take provisions -svith you. There are many other old castles among the valleys of the Taunus, each of which may be made the object of a day's excursion, particularly those of Katzenelnhogen (Cat's Elbow), bmlt by the Counts of that name, who an- ciently possessed the country between the Rhine and the Lahn ; it is situated in a wild and solitary district, Burg ScJvcalbach, and Arteck. Pleasing excursions are, 1. to Frankf-art by Xeuhof, Idstein, Esch, and Konig- stein (Rte. 97); 2. to Dictz and Limbiu'g (Ete. 96), by Holzhauscn ; ?>. do-«Ti the Wisperthal to Lorch on the Ehine (Ete. 38, p. 162); this last must be perfonucd in a carnage of the country. NkclerSelters, the spring which pro- duces the far-famed Seltzer water, may be visited from Schwalbach, but it is a long day's journey, by cross-roads, which even in the best season are veiy rugged. The spiing itseK is situated on the high post-road leading fi-om Limburg to Frankfrirt, and it is of course most easily accessible in that direction. The admirable description of the author of the "Bubbles" will probably afford more gratification than even a visit to the spot. The road which he took led him past the Eisen- h.'.mmery an immense hammer, lifted by a water-wheel, which forges iron by its fall (one of the lions generally visited by the water-drinkers of Schwal- bach), tnrough the vUlages of Xeuhof and T^''Urges, both of which are post- stations, where fresh horses may be had, to the spring of Selters, situated about ~ m. from the ^illage of Sel- ters, which is also a post-station, and provided with a small inn called the Xassauer Hof. About a million and a half of bottles are exported amiually, and the quantity is increasing. Instead of returning to Schwalbach by the sam.e road which brought him, the traveller may make an agreeable variation by following the co\u"se of the Lahn by land, or descending that sfream in a boat to ZS'assau or Ems. (See Ete. 96.) A capital macadamised road, but very hilly, leads fi'om Schwalbach to ScJilangenhad (about 4 m.), another Bninnen of Nassau (^Tnns, Hcssischer Hof; Xassauer Hof), in a delightful though retired situation, almost buried amongst wooded hills. It is neither a town nor ^illage, but consists of a group of lodging-houses. Two of these enormous buildings, resembling cotton- mills in their size and number of win- dows, called the Old and New BadhauSy fui-nish accommodation for visitors. The price of each room, marked on the door, varies from 36 kr. to 3 or 4 fl. daily. Table-d'hote, at 1, costs 1 fl., and, for 1 fl. 45 kr., the same dinner is served in private. The Eauenthaler wine is good here. It is generally necessary to bespeak rooms by letter beforehand, from the Badmeister, an officer appointed by the Duke of Xassau, who has the charge of both houses. This place receives its name of Schlangenbad (Serpent's Bath) fi-om the great number of snakes and vipers, as well as the harmless kind, which not only aboimd in the neighbom-hood, but even haunt the springs themselves, for the sake of the warmth yielded by the water, or for the fi'ogs, the food of the vix>er. The old man who manages the baths will exhibit some of them. The Baths are situated in the ground floor of the Old and Ncu: Badhans, and have a somewhat dark and gloomy aii\ The temperatiire of the water is only SO" Fahrenheit, so that it needs to bo heated for bathing. The sequestered little -^-aUey of Xassau. EOUTE 95. — SCHLAXGEXBAD. BATHS. 209 Sclilangenbad affords more complete retirement than any of the baths of Nassau. It is annually ^asited by about 800 guests, including many princes and persons of the highest dis- tinction from all parts of Germany and Eussia, including frequently some members of the royal family of Prus- sia. <' No part of the bviilding is exclu- sirely occupied by these royal guests ; but, paying for their room no more than the prices marked upon the doors, they ascend the same staircase, and walk along the same passages, with the himi- blest inmates of the place. The silence and apparent solitude which reigned in this new badhaus were to us always a subject of astonishment and admii'ation. Tlte cell of the hermit can hardly be more peaceful." — Bubbles. " The baths of Sehlangenbad are the most harmless and delicious luxuries of the sort I have ever enjoyed ; and I really quite looked forwai'd to the morning for the pleasure with which I paid my addresses to this delightful element. The effect it produces on the skin is very singular : it is about as wai-m as milk, but infinitely softer : and after dipping the hand into it, if the thumb be iiibbed against the fin- gers, it is said by many to resemble satin. Nevertheless, whatever may be its sensation, when the reader reflects that people not only come to these baths from Russia, but that the water in stone bottles, merely as a cosmetic, is sent to St. Petersburg and other dis- tant part? of Europe, he will admit that it must be soft indeed to have gained for itself such an extraordinary degree of celebrity ; for there is no town at Sehlangenbad, not even a village : nothing, therefore, but the real or fan- cied charm of the water coidd attract people into a little sequestered valley, which, in every sense of the word, is out of sight of the civilised world ; and yet I must say that I never remem- ber to have existed in a place which possessed such fascinating beauties ; be- sides which (to say nothing of breathing pure dry air), it is no small pleasure to live in a skin which puts all people in good humour — at least with themselves. But besides the cosmetic charms of this water it is declared to possess virtues of more substantial value : it is said to tranquillize the nerves, to soothe all in- flammation; and from this latter pro- perty the cures of consumption v.hich are reported to have been effected, among human beings and cattle, may have proceeded. Yet, whatever good effect the water may have upon this in- sidious disorder, its first operation most certainly must be to neutralise the bad effect of the climate, which to consump- tive patients must decidedly be a very severe trial ; for, delightful as it is to people in robust health, yet the keen- ness of the moimtain air, together with the sudden alternations of temperature I to which the valley of Sehlangenbad is exposed, must, I think, be anything biit 1 a remedy for weak lungs. " The effect pi-oduced upon the skin by lying about 20 minutes in the bath ; I one day happened to overhear a short j fat Frenchman describe to his friend in ; the following words : — ' Monsieur^ dans ces bains on devient absolnment amoureux I de soi-meme !' I cannot exactly cor- j roborate this Gallic statement, yet I : must admit that limbs, even old ones, ' gradually do appear as if they were ' converted into white marble. The skin assiunes a sort of glitteiing, phosphoric j brightness, resembling very much white objects which, having been thro^mi ' overboard in calm weather within the tropics, many of my readers have pro- bably watched sinking in the ocean, ' which seems to blanch and illuminate them as they descend. The effect is ' very extraordinary ; and I know not ' how to accoimt it, imless it be pro- duced by some prismatic refraction, ' caused by the peculiar particles with which the fluid is impreg-nated. " The Sehlangenbad water contains ' the muriates and carbonates of lime, soda, and magnesia, "with a slight excess of carbonic acid, which holds the car- bonates in solution. The celebrated ' embellishment which it produces on the skin is, in my opinion, a sort of corrosion, which removes tan, or any other artificial covering that the sur- face may have attained from ex[)osm-e I and ill-treatment bv the sun and wind. m3 210 ROUTE 95. SCHLAXGEXBAD, EXCURSIONS. Sect. III. In short, the "body is cleaned by it, just ! as a kitchen-maid scoiu's her copper i saucepan : and the effect being evident, ladies modestly approach it from the j most distant parts of Europe. I am ; by no means certain, however, that ; they receive any peiToanent benefit ; i indeed, on the contrar)', I should think that their skins wotd'd eventually be- , come, if anything, coarser, from the ; removal of a slight veil or covering in- tended by nature as a protection to the cuticle." — Bubbles. From the above description of these "Waters, it will be evident that Schlan- I genbad is peculiarly a " ladies' bath ;" ; and it may be conjectm-ed, from its , effects in calming the mind, invigora- : ting the limbs, and smoothing wi-inkles j from the skin, that if " the foxmtain of youth," so zealously sought for in for- mer days even at the very ends of the earth, exist anywhere, it is to be found | in the lonely valley of Schlangenbad. i The invalid who has imbibed in his skin the fen'uginous particles of the Sehwalbach water, usually repairs hither afterwai'ds, in order to wash away the rust by a course of bathing at the Scr- ' pent's Spring. There is nothing extra- } ordinary in the mineral contents of these i Avaters which would enable chemists to | account for their vii'tue ; it probably | proceeds from some peculiar admix- 1 tui-e derived from the chemistry of j nature, which at present art is imable ' Xjo explain, and eq[uaUy incapable of imitating. Tradition relates that the spring was discovered some hundi-ed years ago by a sick heifer, who every day sepa- rated herself from the herd to drink of it. The herdsman, surprised both at ' the periodical absence of the animal, ' and at the improvement in her con- { dition, traced her foosteps one day, | until he discovered her drinking at the ! Y/arm spring, which now affords the same relief to human invalids which \ it did in the first instance to the quadru- ped. I Schlangenbad is provided neither with a gaming-table nor a ball-room ; ' those who seek such amusements must . repair to Sehwalbach or ^^''iesbaden. i A band of music plays on the walks, ■ to enliven the daily promenade of the water-drinlcers ; but the chief attractions of the place are the more natural and secluded walks among the woods and hills of the neighbourhood. Donheys are the favourite means of conveyance, for gentlemen as well as ladies, here as elsewhere, among the baths of the Taunus. English Church Service, during the season, at 5 p.m., in a chapel belonging to the Duke of Xassau. Schlangenbad is situated ■v^-ithin a few miles of some of the most beautiftd scenery of the Ehine, overlooked for the most part by the great herd of tra- vellers, who content themselves with steaming up and do^^ni the river. "Within the distance of a day's excur- sion are situated the following inter- esting spots : — 1. Georgenbom, a village which com- mands a beautiful prospect over the Rhine and the Main ; and Frauenstein, a small hamlet, with an old castle, and a very ancient and large lime ti'ce. 2. The Monastery of Eberbach, in a highly picturesque situation, at the bottom of a wooded dell, described p. 170. In the way to it the sti'anger will pass Eauenthel, a small village, with famous vineyards in its neigh- bourhood ; and the chapel of Buben- hausen, a magnificent point of view ; the ruined castle of Scharfenstein (once a stronghold of the Archbishops of Mavencc) ; and the beautiful Gothic chapel (1449) of Kiech-ich (p. 171). Eberbach was foimded in 1131, by St. Bernard, the preacher of the Cru- sades. "^^Tiile he rambled about in doubt where to fix his holy establish- ment, a boar issuing out of a thicket indicated with his snout the spot upon ■«-hich the chiu-ch was afterwards reared. The monks of St. Bernard were famed for their riches and hospi- tality; — the order possessed in the Hheingau, and within a space of 3 leagues, no less than 6 convents — Zufenthal, Eberbach, Gottesthal, Ei- bingen, Nothgottes, and ^larienhau- sen ; they were besides the o^vners of the Steinberg vineyard, and used to export its produce in vessels of their ovn down the Rhine to Cologne. JS^assaii. nOUTE 95. "WIESBADEX. 211 Tho vineyards, tlie ■wines, and the con- vent, -fi-itli its estate and cellars, no-«' belong to tlie Duke of Nassau. The destination of the building has been changed to a prison and lunatic asy- iimi ; but he retains the cellars in then- ancient use ; they are stored -ndth the most precious wines : some sorts sell on the spot for 7, 9, or 11 florins the bottle, and even laigher. The arehi- tectm-e of the church is much admired. The Swedish minister and general, Osenstiema, took up his winter C[uar- tcrs in the convent, 1631. The view from the height called the Boss, near the convent, is one of the finest in the Rheingau. (See p. 171.) Immediately below it is the famed Steinberg vine- yard. 3. To the castle and "vineyard of Johannisberg, and the Niederwald, described m p. 169. The carriage- road lies along the highway to May- ence, as far as the village of Xeudorf, where it turns to the rt., and follows for a couple of miles a lane leading to Eltville on the gi-and route, along the rt. bank of the Rhine, to Riidesheim. There is a bridle-road dii-ect from Schlangenbad to Eberbach and the Niederwald, thi-ough the woods; but a guide would be necessary to find it out. There is a cross country foot or horse path, from Schlangenbad to Wiesbaden, by the Chaussee house, or by Frauen- stein and Dotzheim, Road from Schwalhach to Frankfurt. The post-road, on quitting Schwal- hach, at once begins to ascend. The way to Schlangenbad and Mayence turns down a valley to the rt. before you surmount the hUl called liohe Wi'.rzel, from whose top there is a very remarkable prospect, stretching over the Rhiue and Main, with Mayence in the middle distance, and the Bcrgstrasse in the backgi'ound. On the 1. is seen the village of Klarcnthal, with its ci-devant ! convent, and further in the distance the j Platte, a himting-seat of the Duke's : , both favourite points of excursions for the inhabitants of "Wiesbaden. 2 WiESBADEx has been justly called " a city of lodging-houses," almost every building being appropriated cither to the reception or entertainment of visitors. Iniis : Rose, kept by Schmidt, good — charges very reasonable and landlord most attentive ; Tier Jahres- zeiten(Four Seasons), a large andhand- some building ; Post (or Eagle, Adler), rather bustling — charges are fixed by a piinted tariff; Nassauer Hof, a first- rate, well-fiuTiished, quiet hotel, in the gTeat square and close to the theatre — charges reasonable (these 4 have ha.ths in the house) ; Taimus Hotel ; Schiitzen- hof (Shootei-'s Hotel) ; H. Diiiinger, and London Hotel, both near the railway. There are besides more than 20 houses licensed to aflord lodgings only, where meals are not provided ; but there are restaurateiu-s in the town who will send in dinners. The author of the " Bubbles" foimd the landlord of the Englische Hof " exceedingly civil and anxious tohumoirr his old-fashioned whims and oddities." There are baths in the house. The iceekhj charges are — for a good bed- room 20 fr. ; for break- fast 7 fr. ; a bath costs 1 fi'. The best tables-d'hote are at the Kiu-saal, where a dinner costs 1 fl. at 1 o'clock, 1 fl. 45 kr, at 4 o'clock. For this moderate siun a most excellent din- ner, comprising all the delicacies of the season, even ice, is provided. 1 5 dif- ferent dishes are sometimes given for \hd. ! {. e. one penny a dish on an average. Such a dinner could not be had in England for less than 15s. Wiesbaden is the capitalof the Duchy of Xassau, and has 14,000 inhab. It is the residence of the Dulce and the seat of his govermnent. To these cir- cumstances, however, it is in no-\viso indebted for its present prosperity, but to the celebrity of its baths and mineral waters. (§ 41.) The number of visit- ors attracted to this spot in search of health and pleasm-e has of late amotmted to 15,000 annually. Though the most frequented of all the Gcraian baths, the society is not of so high an order as that fomid at Ems or Baden. From its vicinity to Frankfurt and^Mayence it is subject to the constant influx of citizens from these 2 places, and it may in this respect be tcimcd the Mai'gate of Germany. This is mentioned merely 212 EOUTE 95. VriESBADEX. KUR3AAL. SPRINGS. Sect. III. lij vraj of distinguishing this fi-om other -w-atciing-places, and not by way of disparagement, for in the season there is no lack of high German aristocracy, and princes and nobles from all parts of the Continent. The other German visitors, of -svhateTer cl Class, are well- conducted, qniet, and respectable. Wies- baden has a " season" of longer dura- tion than most of the other baths, and is almost always full from June to Sep- tember, and even later, if the autumn pi'ove fine. The most remarkable edifice is the Kwsaal, occupying the E. side of a square, the X. and S. sides of which are lined by colonnades filled with gay shops, serA-ing as a promenade in wet weather and as a sort of bazaar during the whole of the season. Opposite the Kursaal, in one comer of the square, is the thcati-e, in the other the huge hotel of the Tier Jahreszeiten. The Km-saal serves the fourfold pur- pose of banquet, ball, reading, and gaming room, and forms the centre of attraction and gaiety. It consists of a very splendid saloon of large dimensions, siuTounded by pillars of Limburgmarble. A table-d'hOte dinner is served here (see p. 211), sometimes to as many as oOO persons, of all ranks, fi-om sovereign princes do-^Ti to ordinaiy bourgeois. On Sunday the Kursaal is so numerously attended that it is necessary to bespeak a place the day before ; and it often happens that the great room is not large enough to contain all the guests. In the evening it is appropriated to danc- ing. Twice a week (Wednesday and Saturday), a public ball is given, to which the admission is 1 fl. for gentle- men — ladies are admitted gratis. It begins at 10 o'clock. On the rt. hand of the salle are the gambling-rooms, M-hcre gaming is car- ried on almost from moi-ning to night. A Frenchman, Chabert, pays 43,000 florins yeaily rent for the pri-^-ilege of opening gaming tables. The public lose at them 275,000 fl. per annum on an average ! ! On the 1. are supper-rooms, which are usually fully occupied in the evening. Supper is seixed ;\ la carte. When dinner is over every one be- tjikcs himself to the gardcsi behind the Kiu'saal, to sip coffee or ices. Tables are jDlaced out in the open air, within hearing of a band of music, which always plays on these occasions; and while the gentlemen indidge in what Mrs. Trollope is pleased to call " the nasty habit of smoking," the ladies, in the homely and industrious fashion of Germany, generally occupy themselves by knitting while they chat. At such times the space behind the Km-saal is so completely filled with companj', and the tables are so crowded together, that there is barely room to pass ; high and lowai'e promiscuously mingled together, and the whole forms the most pleasing and characteristic scene of " Wiesbaden Life." The houi's of diinking the waters are fi'om 5 or 6 to 8 in the morning, and again partially in the evening about 6 or 7. A short interval is allowed to elapse between the morning di-aught and the balh. A long avenue of stumpy acacias sers'es as a promenade for the water- drinkers, and leads up to the piincipal spring, the A ocA6r?/renm (boiling spring). It has all the appearance of a caldron in violent ebidlition, and its temperatui'o is 56^ of Eeaumrn-, equal to 156° of Fahrenheit. Its waters are used both for drinking and to supply the principal baths in the town ; but so copious is the source that after all this consumption a vast quantity runs over and escapes through the gutters and di-ains. A sti'anger is astonished at first, as he walks along the streets, to perceive clouds of vapour arising on all sides out of the ground. This may be sup- posed to add somewhat to the wannth of the place in summer : if other places are hot, Wiesbaden may be said to be boiling hot. There are 13 other spiings in the town, all of a high temperatLu-e. The spring next in heat and volume is that rising in the garden of the Adler hotel (48^ Eeaumiu'). It is probable that they are all derived from one cen- tral source, breaking out in differer^t spots, as theii- mineiul ingredients are nearly the same, and the slight difier- enco of temperature may arise solely from their being more or less distant from the fountain-head. iassau. ROUTE 95. WIESBADEX. PFAHLGEABEX. 21; The \rater-clrinkers repaii' to the "well at 5 or 6 o'clock a.m., and, receiving their portion scalding hot, walk about, glass in hand, until it is cool enough to be drunk. In taste it has been coni- pai-ed to chicken broth. By 8 o'clock the promenade is usually cleared, and the business of bathing begins. The water in the bath is covered with a greasy film or scum, which collects on the surface while cooling : and which, however uniuA-iting it may appear, is the test of its being quite fi-esh, and not having been used before. After the ceremony of the bath, the doctors allow theii- patients to take their breakfast, vi"hich they have thus in a manner earned. The hot springs and their medicinal properties were well kno-u-n to the Eomans, who called them Fontes Mat- tiaci. Pliny the natiu-alist says of them, that they retain their heat for the space of 3 days : — " Stmt et Mattiaci in GeiTnania fontes calidi quonmi haus- tustriduofervet." — Xat. Hist.Yih.ol.c.2. Foi-merly the waste waters fi'om the springs were allowed to collect in a pond outside the town, which, in con- sequence of its retaining for a length of time a warm temperatui-e, became the resort of wild-fowl in winter. Even now that they are carried ofi" at once to the Ehine, they not only never freeze, but, by their warmth, even preserve tliat part of the river where they enter free from ice. They serve as a niu-sery or stew for cai^p, which, fostered by the heat, grow to an enormous size in them. They deposit a copious calcareous sedi- ment or stalactite, which would in a short time choke up the pipes and channels in which they are canied through the town, were they not regu- larly cleared out. Bubbles of gas rise through the water at the springs, a phenomenon quite independent of those caused by the boiling temperatiu-e, and indicating, probably, some connection of the springs v.ith volcanic agency in the interior of the earth. The Bomaus established a station here — they built a fort or castle on the hill to the X.W. of the town, still known as the Romerberg, which was for a long time garrisoned by the '22nd Legion, as is proved by inscriptions on stones and stamps upon the tiles foimd near the spot. There is an obscure tradition that Xero had a mansion here ; and another hill near the Bomerberg goes by the name of Xerosberg. The inhabitants of the countiy, the Mattiaci, a division of the warlike German tribe, the Catti, became allies of the Bomans. In the 3rd cent, the barbarian Germans attacked and desti'oyed the Boman for- tresses on the rt. bank of the Bhine, and Wiesbaden shared the fate of the rest. Ashes and calcined bones still dug up on the Bomerberg attest its ruin ; and the period at which it took place is marked by the coins foimd there, none being later than the time of GalLienus. In addition to iutls, tiles, coins, lamps, bones, and such trifling remains, with which the ground in and about the to^wn teems, whenever the foundation of a house is dug ; ancient baths have been discovered in several places ; and votive tablets, bearing the thanks of some noble Boman to the gods for ciu-es effected by the waters, are preserved at the Museimi. In after times Charlemagne used constantly to repair hither from his favourite resi- dence at Ingelheim, to enjoy the baths. He built himself a palace (Sala) in the street which still retains the name of Saal Gasse, though the building has dis- appeared. In the town at the bottom of the Heidenberg Strasse, and behind the Ad- ler hotel, is a small piece of stone wall, called the Heidenmaucr (Heathen's Wall). The top of the Heidenberg Sti-asse is 60 or 80 ft. higher than the best part of Wiesbaden. It is now a street of low habitations. The old for- tified Boman town was clearly some- where here. The antiquaries fi_s on the Romerberg Sti'asse, the next sti'eet paral- lel to the Heidenberg Str. A few miles to the N. of "Wiesbaden are the remains of a fortified wall, pass- ing thi-ough a great extent of coimtiy. It is called the Pfahlgraben. Before the Eomans quitted the coiuitry N. of the 214 ROUTE 95. WIESBADEX. MUSEUM. Sect. III. Ilhine, they raised this stupendousbarrier j along their frontier. It was begun, ac- cording to Tacitus, by Drusus, stepson of Augustus, to defend his conquest from the inroads of the Germans, and was finished by Hadrian and CaracaUa. It resembles the Picts' wall in England, but siu'passes it in extent. It consists of a rampart fi-om 12 to 18 ft. high, strengthened by towers at regular dis- tances, and with a fosse origrually lined ^vith palisades, whence its name. It commences at Xeuwied on the Ehine ; it runs thence by Montabauer to Ems, across the Lahn by Miehlen, Schwal- bach, "NVehen, Idstein, and Heftrich to the foot of the Feldberg, and fi'om thence may be traced in a X.E. direc- tion, hj Wehi'heim, towards Butzbach. Several of the summits of the Taunus are crowned by forts or cii'cular ram- parts. This wall, raised to protect the Mattiaci against the inroads of the Catti, has been supposed, but erroneously, to foi-m part of the great stone wall con- structed by the Empr. Probus from the Danube to the Ehine, to protect the provinces of the empire against the Alemanni. (See Gibbon, ch. xii.) The SchWsschen (little palace), in the "Wilhelm's Strasse, contains a veiy good Public Library of 60,000 volumes, includ- ing among the MSS. the Vision of St. Hildcgard, on parchment, with remark- able miiiiatures of the 12th cent., and a Mmeum or Cabinet of Antiquities^ chiefly local, or derived from the Duchy of Xassau. The most curious relic, per- haps, is a bas-relief found at Heddem- heim, near Frankfm-t, representing the youthful god Mvthras, in a Phrygian bonnet, in the act of sacrificing a pros- trate bull, siin-ounded by symbolical figures, and sunnounted by the 1 2 signs of the Zodiac. The worship of Mythi-as was introduced by the Romans from Persia, and set up by the Pagan priest- hood in opposition to Christianity, then in its infanc}'. A Soman town, and a temple of Mythi-as, existed at Haddornheim, from the ruins of which this and other curious bas- reliefs, statues, altars, &c. have been foiind. Here is also the bronze top of the standard of a cohort of the 22nd Legion ; a curiously carved altar-piece (25 ft. long and 9 ft. high), fi-om the sequestrated abbey of Marienstadt, near Hachenbiu'g, dating from the 13th cent. ; the monuments of Diether and Eber- hard von Katzenelnbogen brought from the convent of St. Clara, and some painted glass. There is also a collection of Pictures, but few of them answer to the names attached to them. The Theatre begins at 6 p. m. A handsome E. Catholic chiu-ch has been built, with 2 towers of open work, in the Louisen Platz. The Duke of Xassau is building a superb Greek Mausoleum, at a cost of 250,000/., to contain the remains of his fij'st wife, a Eussian princess, and her re- cumbent effigy in marble by Hopfgartcn. Strangers residing for a few weeks can be introduced by members of the Casino to read the newspapers in their reading-room. English Church Service is performed every Sunday, dui'ing sarnnier, in the Lutheran Church in the Kirch Gasse, by an English clergyman, at 1 1 a.m. and 6 P.:w. ; during winter, in the Hotel de la Eose, at 11 a.m. and 3^ p.m. Eilvjagen daily to Ems and Coblenz ; 3 times a day to Eiidesheim ; dally to Limburg. AYiesbaden differs fi'om the other watering-places of Xassau, in being a regularly built town. It is also some- what noisy and bustling during the season, but has the same advantages with the rest in beauty' of situation, and a picturesque neighbourhood, affording agreeable walks and rides, and the most complete retirement within a few hun- di'cd yards of its precincts. By ascend- ing any of the adjacent heights, ele- vated only a few hundi'ed ft. above the town, a chaimiag prospect is disclosed to view, of the Ehine and fertile Eheingau, in which the sj^ux'S and boat-bridge of Mayence form a prominent object; and the horizon is backed on the E, by the Odenwald and by the Melibocus sur- mounted by its white tower ; on the S. by the ridge of the Donnersbcrg or Mont Tonnere, inEhenish Bavaria. From the Geisherg, about a mile from the town, this \dew is seen to great advantage. One of the pleasantest walks, and nearest at hand, is thi-ough the shrub- hanging their basement stories, forms \ a complete contrast to the new. Many '■ of the houses are of great antiquity, j especially in the quarter aroimd the i Cathedral and Eomerberg; they pre- | serve all the character of " the ancient j Imperial Free City." The cmiosities i of Frankfurt are — ! The Cathedral (Dom) ; it is chiefly remarkable for its antiquity (the nave, I the oldest part, dates from the 13th ! cent., and the choir fi'om 1338), and \ on accoimt of the coronation of the Em- i perors of Germany having taken place within it. The chui'ch is not much dis- tingiushed for beauty or symmetry of architecture. The &iest poition is its tower, begim 1415, and carried on for nearly 100 years to its present condition, and still unfinished. It has also a fine S. doorway, which is blocked up by sheds. The interior is veiy plain, whitewashed, and with a vile modern gallery ninning roimd one side of the transepts and the aisles. It contains one or two cmious monuments, especially that of the Em- 216 IIOUTE 95. — FRAXKFUrtT. ROMER. Sect. III. pcror Guntlier of Sch^arzlmrg (on the rt. of the choir), who was killed (1349) by his rival Charles lY., and that of Rudolph of Sachsenhausen abundantly ornamented ; a cuiuous group of old painted scidptiu'e of the 12th cent, representing the Death of the Virgin (in the chapel on the 1. side of the choir) ; and a remarkable clock, 1460, close to the jST. door. St. Bernard preached the Crusade to an enthusiastic audience, and perfonued mii-acles, in this church. In the Election Chapel (^''ahlkapelle) the Emperor was chosen : and 46 Emperors, after ha^TJig here gained their election, Avere afterwards crov^Tied in front of the high altar. Here are shown the chair in which the Emperor sat in chiu-ch, and two of the stools for the Electors. The TovM - house, called Homer, a building of the 15th cent., has also far less of architectural beauty to re- commend it than of historical interest, as the scene of the ceremonies attend- ing the Election of the Emperors, and the place where the festivities succeed- ing their coronation were celebrated. The walls of the banqueting-room or Kaiser saal, an irregular apartment, in the shape of a rhomboid, where the Emperors were entertained, and waited on at table by kings and princes, are cot*ered with their portraits (52) in the order of succession, from Conrad I. to Francis II., recently painted by Lessmj, Bendeman, Bethel, and other eminent living artists, in the place of some vile daubs of the sign -post school. Under nearly every one is the motto which the Emperor adopted at his coronation, like sergeants-at-law when called to the degree of the coif. At the end of the HaU is the Judgment of Solomon by Steinle. These jiaintings are the gifts of different royal, noble, and private persons, citizens of Frank- furt, (Src., and many have great merit. The Hall has been restored in adherence to the ancient style, the decoration of the ceiling being cojiied from the ori- ginal design. In the election chamber (^Yahlzimmer), the Senate of Frankfurt now holds its sittings. Here is pre- served the famous Golden Bull, or deed by which the Empr. Charles lY. (1356) settled the mode of Election of the German Emperors, and the number of the Electors. It is shown for the exlxa- vagaiit fee of a ducat, which many will consider the sight of a dusty parchment hardly to deserve. The Kai^ersaal, which is on the 1st floor, is open to the public every Monday and ^\''ed- nesday from 11 to 1 : at other times admission may be gained by ringing the bell of that door of the antecham- ber of the Wahlzimmer, which is op- posite to the door by which it is en- tered. In the Market-place, called the Edmerberg, in fi'ont of the building, upon the occasion of the Imperial coronation, an ox was roasted whole, from which the Arch-Steward (Erb- Tnichsess) cut a slic^ for the Emperor : a fountain flowed with wine from which the Arch- Cupbearer (Erb-Mimdschenk) fiUed his glass, and the Arch-Marshal distributed corn from a silver measure ; and the popidace enjoyed the privilege of appropriating the scarlet cloth upon which the Emperor walked from the cathedi'al. So greedily was it cut away behind him as he passed onwards, that he ran the risk of having his heels cut also. The ceremonies observed at an Imperial coronation may be seen in some old prints on the staii'case of the public library, and in the election chapel at the cathedral. Drav^-ings of the re- galia too are hung up on the library staircase. St. LeonharcVs Ch. (1323), near the river, occupies the spot where the pa- lace of Charlemagne stood : no ti'aees of it now exist. He assembled the Bishops and Princes of the Empii-o here at Frankonofuixl (the Frank's ford). The Saalhof, a gloomy modern build- ing (1717), near the Main, retains the name alone of the palace of his son and successors. The Gothic chapel, however, appears to be as old as the 10th cent. Sachsenhausen, the Southwark of Frankfurt, on the 1. bank of the river, is, as its name implies, a Saxon colony — a different race from the Franks on the rt. bank of the Main, and is under a distinct jurisdiction. Immediately above the old Bridge over the Main, i^. assail. ROUTE 95. — FRANKFURT. MUSEUM. 217 Avh.ich is cro\nied by a modern statiic of Charlemagne, on tlie side of Sach- senhansen, stands the ancient Palace of Ihc Knights of the Teutonic Order. Close to the bridge are remains of the old palace of the Counts of Isenberg ; one side is of good Elizabethan Gothic. There are two institutions for the encouragement of arts and sciences, ■which reflect the highest credit iipon the town of Frankfiut. 1. The Stddel 3Iuseum of Pictures, a handsome building, in the Xeue Main- zer Strasse, is named after its fotmder, a citizen of Frankfurt, who bequeathed his collections of paintings, drawings, and cngra^-iiigs to the city, along with a large srun, amoimting to about 83,000/., for building and maintaining a Public Gallery and School of Art. The sum annually available for the purchase of pictures is about 800 guineas. The secretary is M. Passa- ^"ant, the biogTapher of EaphaeL The collection is open to the public gi-atis, from 10 to 1, daily, except Satiu-day, when it is open to strangers passing through, from 11 to 1. The pictiu-es which it contains con- sist of some curious specimens of the early masters of Germany and the Low Countries, of a not very numerous or remai'kable collection of Dutch and Italian masters, and of some of the best works of the modern German School. The following are perhaps the most worthy of notice : — IstPoom. Italian School. \,Pervgino — Yii'gin and Child. 19, Gio. Bellini — Holy Familj-. 399, Jfor^ffo —Yii-gin and Child, with the four Fathers of the Latin Chiu-ch (from Cardinal Fesch's collection : cost 30,000 fl.), a very re- markable work, perhaps the finest by the master on this side the Alps. 400, Paris Bordone — Sketch for his great pictui-e at Venice, representing the Fisherman presenting St. Mark's Eing to the Doge. (Handbook for N. Italy, p. 359.) \Lnd Boom (Grosser Saal). Here are tlic following works of modern German artists: — 96, Hiibner — Job with his Friends. 99, Lessing — Huss before the Council of Constance. Verj^ carefully composed and elaborately finished ; los- ing, indeed, much of its power by its minute finish. 100, Achcnbach — Storm on the coast of Xorway. 103, Bethel — Daniel in the Lions' Den. 104, Schwrr — The Good Samaritan. 106, Lessing — Ezzelin in Prison, after the Battle of Cassano. 3/'t? Boom. Ocerheck — The Triumph of Christianity in the Ai-ts. Considered a chef d'oem-re of the aiiist : all the heads are portraits of persons renowned as authors, di^-ines, or artists. In this production of elaborate pedantry the ti-aveller will easily discover how much the artist has borrowed from Raphael's School of Athens and Dispute of the Sacrament. 111. A remarkable altar- piece, consisting of a centre and two wings, representing the events of the Crucifixion, by a Cologne artist of the beginning of the 1 5th cent. ; foi-merly attiibuted to Schoreel. In this room are some ciurious works of the early German School, and a portrait by Q. Metsys, 138, erroneously called Knip- perdoUing. Uh Boom. Dutch and Flemish Schools. A poor collection. 186, Hohhema — Landscape. 194, Buysdael — Storm clear- ing off. Wood and WaterfaU. 201, Wynants — Landscape. -21, Bubens — Portrait of his infant Daughter, who afterwards became a nun. In the room beyond the last there is nothing worthy of remark, but in the next are the following works: — 344, Schadoir — The wise and foolish Virgins. 347-356, Steinle — 10 colom'ed cartoons, for the fi-escoes at the Castle of Rheineck (p. 275). 357-361, .S'cAno/T— Cartoons of subjects fi-om Orlando Fiuioso. 362-371, Bambonx — 10 coloured draw- ings fi-om the Divina Commedia. In a room opening out of the 3rd room, and called the Fresco-Saal, is a fresco by Veit, representing the introduction of the arts into Germany l)y Christianity, with two allegorical figiu-es of Italy and Geimany at the sides. Here are casts of the latest of Ghiberti's 2 cele- brated bronze doors of the Baptistery, Florence ; and of parts of the other, and of that by Andrea Pisano ; and a singular and very remarkable composi- tion, in teiTa-cotta, representing the Virgin and Saints, by Giorg. Andrioli, 218 ROUTE 95. FRAXKFURT. MUSEUM. LIBRARY. Sect. III. 1511, fi'om the Ch. of the Madonna del Eosario at Gubbio, in the proyince of Urbino. The very interesting collec- tion of engravings contains some etch- ings by Flemish masters not to be met %vith in any other cabinet. 2. The Senhenherg Museum of Na- t'lml Eistory (close to the picturesque Eschenheim Gate, a building of the l-ith cent.) contains very good col- lections in the various branches of na- tiu-al historj', tolerably "well arranged. Many rare specimens, not to be found in other museums, -were brought to Em-ope by the enterprising ti-aveller Riippell, a native of Frankfiu't, from Egypt, Xubia, the shores of the Eed Sea, and Abyssinia. They are the re- sult of several arduous and interesting journeys undertaken by him, at his o\VTL expense, for the benefit of this museum. A small annuity has been settled on him for life by the city of Frankfiu't since his retiuTi. There is a small ethnological collection at the top of the hotise. The Museum is opened to the public gratis, twice a Tveek, for 2 hrs. ; "Wed. 2 to 4 ; Frid. 1 1 to 1. Members have access every afternoon. A small fee to the keeper will procure admission for a stranger from 8 to 1 and 3 to 6 on other days, to this collection. Dannccker' s Statue of Ariadne, in the garden of Mr. Bethman, near the Fried- burg Gate, is the great boast of Frank- furt, and deserves to be ranked among the distinguished productions of modem art. The artist, whose works are little knoT^Ti in England, was a native of Wiirtemberg. The statue is placed in a pavilion built for its reception, and is usually shown fi-om 10 to 1 daily. Here is preserved a mask from the face of the unfortunate Prince Lichnowsky, so basely and cruelly nuu-dered by Re- publican bloodhounds, Sept. 19, 1848, near this spot. A very pretty reduced copy of the Aiiadne in bronze may be had of Ihlee, Xo. 63, Zeil. Just outside the Friedburg Gate stands the mommient erected by the King of Prussia to the memory of the Hessian soldiers killed in the siege of Frankfm-t, 1792. The Public Library, in a handsome building, facing the Main, close to the Ober MaiiT Thor, is a useful collection of books. In the entrance-haU is a marble statue of Gothe, by Marchesi. It is open to the public, Tues. and Thiu's. 11 to 12. The Libi-arj' possesses a few curiosities, among which are por- traits of Luther (by L. Cranach'?), and of his wife Cath. a Bora; 2 i;)air of Luther's shoes, two missals with cmioua old carvings in ivory on the covers, and a fine copy of the first edition of the Bible printed by Faust, at IMentz. The Library is open, Tues. and Thiu-s. 11 to 12 ; Wed. and Frid. 2 to 4. St. George's Hospital (Ileiligegeist), behind the Library, is a handsome building, and a well-regulated establish- ment. The poet Gothe was bom at Frank- furt, in the house marked F. Xo. 74, in the Hirschgrahen, 1749. His father's coat of arms, which, by a ciuious coincidence, bears the poetical device of 3 lyres, still remains over the door. A monumental statue of him by Sch.ran- thaler of Munich has been set up ia the Alle'e, facing the Theatre ; it is of bronze, pedestal and figure, and is a fine work : the subjects of the bas- reliefs are taken from Gothe' s works. A group of statues of Gutenberg, Faust, and Schofi^r, the inventors of printing, wiU soon be placed in the Rossmarkt. Luther resided in a corner house in the Dom Platz, now marked by hir, bust and the inscription, " In silentio et ppe erit fortitudo vestra." — C. IZ. Frankfm-t is the cradle of the Eoth- schild family ; the house in which they were born is in the Judengasse (Jews' Street), which long retained the pri- mitive air of antiquity, and the usual rags and refuse of a Jew's quai-ter, but is gradually becoming modernized. The Jews, who form no inconsider- able portion of the community here, have till very lately been treated v\'ith gTcat illibcralitj' by the Free Tot^ti. The gates of the quarter to which they were exclusively confined were closed upon them at an early horn- every night, after which ingress and egress were alike denied. This arbitrary mimicipal regulation was enforced, until Marshal JVassau. EOUTE 95. — FRANKFURT. EXCHAXGE, ETC. 219 Jourdan, in bombarding tbe town (1796), knocked do^vn tbe gate of tbe Je-u's' quarter, akmg witb many bonscs neai" it, and they bare not been re- placed since. Anotber tp'aniiical law, not repealed imtil 18o4, restricted tbe number of marriages among tbe He- brews in tbe town to 13 yeaidy. Tbe Synagogue, an old and cmious Gotbic building, is situated in tbe Judengasse. The Jews are no longer compelled to live in this street, but may bii'e or piu-- cbase houses in other quarters. Tbe principal business can-ied on at Frankfiu't is banking and jobbing in the funds. A new Exchange (Borse) has been built on tbe Xcue lli-ame, behind the Eomer. It is in tbe style vrhicb at ^Munich is called Byzantine ; and built of a brown stone, with stripes of red stone an-anged in. tbe fashion of the Cathedral at Sienna. The architect is Staler, of Berlin; tbe statues in front represent Hope and Prudence, tbe quarters of tbe Globe, Commerce, &c. The interior is a curious mongTcl style of semi-mauresque, but worthy notice. The Braunfels, which formerly served that imrpose, is an old building in which the Empr. Maximilian and Gus- taru.s Adoli>hus resided ; it is filled v>'itb ti'aders at the fair time. Xear the Borse is the modern Ch. of St. Paid, in which the would-be German Parlia- ment of 1848 met. Frankfurt has hitherto been a staple place, or entrepot, for central Eiu'ope, receiving the productions and manufac- tiures of all parts of the world, to dis- tribute them in detail over the whole Continent. In 1836 it acceded to the Prussian Custom-house league (§ 32), which may perhaps irifluence the ex- tent of its commercial transactions in futm-e. The Franlfurt Fairs are held at Easter, and 3 weeks before Michael- mas. They are less important than formerly. "WTiilc they last, and diu-ing the week preceding their commence- ment, the inns in the to'wii are thronged to excess, so that it is difficult to obtain accommodation. The articles exposed for sale are mostly inferior to English manufactm-es, but at the same time cheaper; about one-fifth of tbe booths are pipe-shops and one-thii-d toyshops ! The territory of Frankfurt does not much exceed 10 Eng. sq. m. in extent ; its limits are marked by ancient watch- towers erected on the high roads. The Germanic Diet meets at the resi- dence of the Austi-ian Ambassador, in the building formerly tbe Palace of the Prince of Thurn and Taxis. Ministers from Great Britain, tbe United States, and almost aU tbe states of Em-ope, reside here ; and travellers going to Axistria or Italy should not neglect this opportimity of having their passport properly rise. As the Passport Offices are only open a few boiu-s in the day, generally 2, 3, or 4 hoiu's in the morning, and all close at noon; and as the applicants are often very numerous, no time should be lost in sending the passport to be vise. The English P. 0. is open 9^—12; tbe U. States, 11—1; Aus- trian and Prussian, 10 — 12, and 3 — 5 P.M.; Bavarian, 9 — 11. N.B. Xo passport can be vise imtil it has received the signatui-e of tbe re- presentative of the coimtiy to which tbe bearer of the passport belongs. The office of British Consul is most worthily filled by Mr. Koch, one of the most eminent citizens, bankers, and Rhine wine exporters in Frankfurt. His house of business is Xo. 6, am Salzbaus, comer of the Eossmarkt. Of the multitude of English travellers who annually visit Frankfui't, there are few who cannot bear personal testi- mony to the lu-banity and kindness of Mr. Koch. The English Service is performed once every Sunday at the French Ch. in the Allee, or in the Lutheran Ch. called Weisse Frauenkircbe at 11^ by the chaplain of tbe embassy. English Physician, 'Wm. Scott, M.D. : Dr. Spies is highly spoken of. The Theatre is very respectable in its orchestra and performers; it is usually open 5 days in the week; it begins at 6 and ends at 9. There is a summer theatre at Bockenhoim, a -pil- lage near Frankfurt on tbe X.W., and the first Stat, on the Frankfurt and Casscl Eailway (Ete. 70). 220 ROUTE 95. — FRAXKFURT OX THE MAIX. Sect. III. The Post-office is No. 52 in the Zeil, a fe^v doors from the Hotel de Russie, ou the same side of the street. The Casino is one of the best clubs (§ 44) in Germany ; nearly 100 dif- ferent papers are taken in ; among them most of the French papers, Galig- nani's Messenger, the Times, and one or two other English journals. Stran- gers are liberally admitted upon the introduction of a member, and even ladies on certain days. The Cafe Milani, in the Kossmarkt, next to the Hotel d'Angleten-e, is on the plan of French and Italian Cafes and has a room for ladies, -vrhere no smoking is allowed. Baths. — Grebs' warm, cold, vapour baths, &c., Main Kay, J 45, close to the Leonhards Thor and St. Leon- hard's Ch., are good. The shop of M. Jiigel, the bookseller, opposite the gxeat guard-house, is a l)leasant lounge. Besides guide-books, maps, and views likely to be useful and interesting to travellers, there are usually some very tolerable pictures, or other objects of art for sale here. Mr. Jiigel is the Galig-nani of Frankfurt ; he speaks English, and is veiy civil and obliging in fm-nishing all sorts of in- formation to sti-angers. 3fr. Wilmaa's (67 Zeil) and Mr. Schmerber's (opposite the Hotel de Eussie) shops possess similar advantages. Bohemian glass may be had at Tac- chi's. No. 44 in the Zeil, and at Vogel- sang and Miiller's, Liebfrauenbcrg, G 53, who have a manufactory near Strakonitz. The reliefs cut in stags' horn (Hirsch- horn), after the manner of a cameo, are very pretty. They are made in the neighboming village of Bocken- heim. They may be had at BiJhler's shop, 26 Zeil, and Bing's, also in the Zeil, and elsewhere. The bronze copy of the ^Vi-iadne of Dannecker is to be had here, and at Ihlee's, 63, Zeil. Pillot and Sohn, 35 Zeil, opposite the Hotel dc Eussie, is a good shop for canvas work in wool, and embroidery (Sti-amin and Stickerei). Mr. S. Gands, 200 Mainzer Gasse, is recommended to the editor as a teacher of German. He is a native of Hanover. At Jdger's shop Qldgersche Bv.cli- handhmg'), on the Dom Platz, oppo- site the N. door of the Cathedi'al, one of the oldest geogi-aphical establishments in Germany, a large assortment of maps, geogi'aphical works, &c., is kept. —G. B. G. J. J. Weiler, on the Wollgraben (Let. A. No. 36), not far from the bridge, is a respectable money-changer. L. A. Hahn, Zeil, is also a money- changer. Public Gardens. — The agreeable belt of gardens which encircles the to-rni of Frankfurt is one of its most pleasing and ornamental features. No stranger should omit to visit them. They occupy the site of the ancient fortifications. At the W. extremity of Frankfurt, on the bank of the Main, there are public gardens, called Mainlust, where a band plays in the afternoon. The Old and Neio Cemeteries, about 1^ mile from the Fi'iedberg Gate, are worth visiting (§ 45). The gi'ound com- mands a charming view of Frankfurt and the Taimus. Among the monu- ments under the arcade at the upper end, that of the Bethman family, with beautiful bas-reliefs by Thoncaldsen, is well worth notice. They are seen by looking through the door of open work at the N. end of the arcade. A costly monument has been set up to the Countess Eeichenbach, who was mar- ried to the late Elector of Hesse. Sommering the naturalist, and Feuer- bach the lawj'er, are biiried here. Here is a Monument to the Prince LichnoAvsky and Gen. Aucrswald, Prus- sian dcjiuties to the Diet, so dastardly murdered by Revolutionary assassins, Sept. 18, 1848. Also to several Prussian officers who lost their lives in storming the baiTicades on that occasion. Many pleasant Excijrsions may be made from Frankfurt. 1. To Wies- baden and the Brunncn of Nassau by raHway (Rte. 95). 2. To the Tau- nus moimtains by railway as far as Hochst and Soden (Rte. 97). 3. To Homburg and its splendid new KvrhaKS. By rail to Bonamos Stat, of the Main- "\Veser Bahn. Omnibus 8 or 10 times a day (Rte. 97). To Offenbach, by rail- Js^assau. ROUTE 96. GIESSF.X TO COBLEXZ. WEILBUEG. 221 vray, 2 m. above Frankfurt, on the 1. braik of the Main, a flomishing, indus- trious town. The Prince of Thum and Taxis enjoys the right of managing the Posts of some of the minor German states. His head post-office is at Frankfiu't, Eih.ragen {Office^ Zeil, behind the post-office) — daily to Coblenz in 12 hrs., to ^Veilburg in 7 hrs., — to Sie- gen by "Wetzlar in l-t hrs., — to "^tirz- biirg in 13 hrs., Xuremberg in 25 hrs., — to Ratisbon in 38 krs., — to Paris by Metz, malleposte and rail, in 25 hrs. Railroads : — to Mayence and TVies- baden, — to Darmstadt and Heidelburg, combined teiToinus outside the Gallus Thor — to Cassel — Main -Weser Bahn partially — to Hanau — to Offenbach, Steamers on the Main to Wiii'zburg daily. (See Handbook S. Germaxy.) Haiiser, the Lohnkutscher, is recom- mended as a respectable person, from whom carriages and horses may be hired (§ 34). Hire of a carriage for a journey. — " At Frankfurt the ordinary charge made by an innkeeper is 5 fr. a day for a caleche holding 4 inside, to be drawn by 2 horses, the postilion driving from the box; sometimes, however, such a carriage may be had for 4 fr-. a day, if taken for some time. Such a carriage, secondhand, may be piu-- chased in Frankfmt for 20/. or 30/." ROUTE 96. GIESSEX TO COBLENZ, AND DESCENT OF THE LAHN, BY WEILBURG, LlilBURG, AND EMS. 14 Germ. m. = 60 Eng. m. A schnellpost daily in 13^ hrs. Giessen lies on the high road from Frankfurt to Cassel. (Rte. 70, p. 378.) Our road follows the 1. bank of the Lahn. A railvay is tallied of: 1851. There is a splendid view from the hill over which the road approaches. 2 "Wetzlar. — Inn, Herzogliches Haus ; tolerable, and ci%-il people. This was anciently a free Imperial town, and seat of the Imperial Cham- ber from 1698 to 1806; but at the Peace of Paris, it, together with the isolated ten■itor^' attached to it, was made over to the King of Prussia. It is old and badly built, but is chaim- ingly situated in the Lahn vallev; it contains about 5500 inhab., and has a I Cathedral or Dora, a fine Gothic edifice, I built at 3 periods; it is amicably di- i vidcd between Catholics and Protes- j tants. The old portal, called Heiden- thiuTu, is said to be of the 8th c;^nt. The interior is cxirious, the monuments are weU preserved. "Wetzlar derives some celebrity from being the scene of Gothe's romance, " The Soitows of "W'erther," founded on events which actually occun-ed here. The hero was a Legations Secretaiy, named Jeni- salem ; he is buried in the churchyard outside the 'Walbach Gate. In front of that gate is Charlotte's Foimtain, and the house of her father, whose name was Amtmann Buff. The author has described, xmder the name of Walheim, the %-illage of Garbenheim, 2 m. distant. The French General Hoche died at "Wetzlar of consumption. 2 m. below Wetzlar is the fine Gothic ch. of Altenberg, recently restored, ori- ginally attached to a convent. It con- tains cm-ious monuments. The next stage lies at some distance from the river, passing the town of Braunfels ; on the height above is the Chateau of the mediatised Prince of Solnis -Braunfels. Immediately beyond it the Prussian territory ends, and that of Xassau begins. 3 "Weilbui-g — {Inns: Schwan, good, with a fine ^-iew). Traube is beauti- frilly situated on a high bank above the river, being built on a peninsula, which is joined to the 1. bank by a narrow neck of land, and has a Castle, an- ciently the residence of the Ducal I family of Xassau -"W'eilbiu'g, — removed since the extinction of the line of ' Xassau-Usingen to Biberich. The I gardens extend down to the river. The I Dukes of Xassau are biu-ied in a chm-ch j here. In the vicinity there is an ex- i tensive park. The view of "W'eilburg i is surpassed by few scenes in X. Ger- ; many, the principal features being the old castle on a rock, the bridge, and ' the winding river. The hill on which I "Weilbiu-g stands has been perforated 222 ROUTE 96. — LIMBURG. THE LAHX. DIETZ. Sect. III. by a Tunnel for the passage of the waters of the Lahn. It is lighted Avith gas, and sen'es as a canal. The Lahn is to be made navigable as far as Mar- biu'g, at the expense of Prussia, Nassau, Hesse-Cassel, and Hesse-Darmstadt. It was at "Weilburg, that in 1836, Mr. HoUond, M.P. for Hastings, Mr. Monck Mason, and Mr. C. Green, de- scejided in the " Xassaii Balloon," ha^-ing made the voyage from London to this place in 18 hrs., staiting at li P.M., and ai-riving here at 7J on the folloAving morning. [There is a road hence by Usingen, over the Taimus, and down upon Hom- biirg to Frankfurt, 8 Germ. m. = 38^ Eng. m. A public conveyance runs daily on this road. The road between Weilbiu'g and L^singen passes through some fine forests, mostly belonging to the Duke of Nassau, whose park is passed. At L'singen is a palace be- longing to the Duke. From the top of the hill, before descending into Hom- bui-g, there is a fine view of the Oden- wald, as far as the Duchy of Baden.] This part of the valley of the Lahn is picturesque, enclosed by wooded hills, and is interesting to the geologist. It was formerly partitioned out between the 4 reigning houses of Solms, Isen- burg, Nassau, and Konigstein. The post road from Weilburg to Limbiu-g is for the most part uninteresting; that passing by the ancient town and castle of Runkei, being a cross road, is bad. A little above Limburg, on the rt. bank of the Lahn, is the very old Cliii.rch of Dietkirchen, standing on a rock, and containing bones of St. Mat- thew and St. Lubentius, as it is re- ported. 3 Limburg (Inns: Nassauer Hof; Deutscher Tlof ; Belle vue), a very an- cient town on the Lahn. The superb Cathedral of St. George towers pre- eminently above the other buildings. It was originally foimded 909, but the existing edifice is not older than the end of the 1 2th or beginning of the 1 3th cent. Its architecture is particu- larly interesting, as it exhibits the latest character of the Byzantine style, mixed with the commencement of the Pointed Gothic. It contains several monuments of princes of Nassau, and a veiy old font, but is sadly disfigured by whitewash. The ^aews of the winding Lahn from this chiu'ch and from the pictiu'esquc bridge, and that of the church itself, fiom a mill on the bank of the river, are very fine. The MS. called Lim- burg Chronicle is one of the oldest sources of German history. A boat may be hired at Limbtu'g to descend the river to Ems and Coblenz. Limbm-g is con- nected bv good macadamised roads with Frankfurt, 8^ Germ. m. (Ptte. 47); and "Wiesbaden, 6 Germ. m. Nieder- Selters is about 9 m. off (p. 208). Eilu-agen to Cologne daily, in 1 5 hrs. Wiesbad.en daily, in 5 hrs. At Limburg the high road crosses and quits the Lahn. The next stage lies over a hilly country : 1. see S. Oran- ienstein and Schloss Schaumburg. 3 Montabaur {Tnn: "VTeisses Ross), a very picturesque town ; its old castle originally belonged to the Elector of Treves ; is now a himting lodge of the D. of Nassau. This stage lies through pretty coimtry ; a magnificent view of Ehi-enbreitstein is obtained fi'om the last hill before reaching 3 Coblenz (Rte. 37, p. 151). The Lahn between Limbm-g and I Ems is very picturesque, and well worth exploring ; but the road along this part of its course is a cross road not practicable for English can-iages. Dietz, 3 m. from Limburg (Tnas : Hof von Holland ; good and clean ; Adier), is romantically situated on the Lahn, which is crossed by a bridge 600 years old, overlooked by the castle of its an- cient coimts, of Nassau-Dietz, built on the summit of a rock, now the principal l)rison of Nassau. Not far off is Oran- ienstein, a chateau of the D. of Nassau, not inhabited nor remarkable. At Dietz, a boat with 2 rowers may be hired for 6 or 7 fl. to descend the Lahn to Ems. The river winds so much as to make the distance nearly double that by the high road, and the passage to take up 6 hrs. It is not imHke the AYye, though at first the scenery exhibits a sameness of beauty, y^cissau. tOUTE 97. — THE TAUXUS MOUXTAIXS. 223 the Mils on both sides being covered vrith. wood, and not distinguished by much variety of shape ; but the nu- meroxis villages and ruined castles on its banks contribute to embellish the %-ie-ws. A fevr miles below Dietz is the mineral spring of Fachingen on the L, and, about as far again lower down, GeUnau on the rt. bank of the Lahn. Many thousand bottles of the water are exported annually : it is very like that of Selters. At a little distance from the Lahn, on its 1. bank, half-way be- tween Fachingen and Geilnau, are the castles of Balduiasteia, built 1325, by a bishop of Treves, the most interesting object on the road ; and Schaumburg, once the residence of the princes of Anhalt-Bernburg, extinct since 1812, now belonging to the Archduke Stephen. A mile beyond Geilnau, and about 14 fi'om Ems, is Holzappel (Inn, Bar), a small and uninteresting town, sur- roimded by fine mountains. On the road not far from it, close to the river, stand the ruins of the castle of Lauren- hurg, the original residence of the Nas- sau family, who bore the name of Counts of Laurenbiu-g down to the middle of the 12th cent. rt. Further on are the village of Obemhof, and the small but very per- fect old castle of Langenau, with its Avails, gates, towers, and external for- tifications complete, but filled with xHe modem buildings, seated on a flat which seems to have been once an island. L The ruined Abbey of Amstein, standing conspicuous on the side of a mountain, opposite Langenau, presents a splendid and pictiu-esque' front to the gaze of the passenger. It was the feudal seat of a long line of coimts, the last of whom, Louis of Amstein, ha^-ing no son, married and portioned off his 7 daughters, dividing among them a part of his estates ; then converting his castle into a convent, he endowed it with the rest of his property, and finally became a monk himself. It is now a Penitentiary for Rom. Cath. Priests ! There are no remains of the original castle. The Church is entire ; its 2 towers date from 1359. "WTien the Lahn is low, it is fordable opposite to Amstein ; at other times those who come from Xassau must cross by the ferry at Obernhof, higher up. The road from. Dietz to Ems, though bad, is practicable for post carriages, and is very pictui'esque. It does not, however, follow the course of the Lahn until a short distance from Obemhof, about 2 leagues from Xassau. By a steep ascent it reaches Holzappel ; thence, through a beech forest, it passes above Obemhof, and moimting to a gTeat height, occupies the narrow neck of an isthmus between the deep glens of the Lahn and TVeinahrbach. Next passing Langenau and Arnstein it reaches 3i Nassau (Etc. 95). 1 Ems (p. 202). ROUTE 97. THE TAUXUS MOUNTAINS, FROM WIES- BADEN TO FRANKFURT, BY EPPSTEIS", KONIGSTEIN, AND HOilBURG. The E. extremity' of the Taimus chain of hills, though little known to English tourists, will well repay those who may be tempted to explore it. The district here referred to might be nearly included within a triangle drawn between the towns of "VN'iesbaden, Frankfrirt, and Hombm-g. This pai4 of the chain presents in its narrow pas- toral valleys, clear pm-ling sti'eams, and wooded heights, scenery of the utmost beaut\', diflering from that nearer to the Rhine in its character of sylvan solitude, and perhaps surpassing it in vai-iety. Roads. — The post road from "Wies- baden to Frankfurt passes considerably to the S. of these hiUs ; but that from Frankfrirt to Limburg crosses them. There is a carriage road direct from Wiesbaden to Konigstein through Epp- stein, quite practicable even for a heavily laden Gennan can-iage, though it is bad in some places. The part between Xam-oth and Bremthal is bad after wet weather. The other roads are scarcely practicable for an English can-iage, though passable, with some diffieidty, for a light German caleche. The best mode of exploring this coun- 224 ROUTE 97. EPPSTEIX. KONIGSTEIX. Sect. III. try is on horseloack or on foot, as the teauties of manj" of its valleTS will be lost to those who confine themselves to carriages and the high roads. Those ■who do not mind jolting over rough roads may indeed approach them in a coiuitry car, and then with the aid of a guide penetrate into theii- recesses on foot. Pedestrians may explore the finest parts of this fertUe and picturesque hill-coTmtry district in 2 days, by adopt- ing the followitig course. Take the Taunus Railv:ay (Rte. 99) to Hat- tersheim Stat., walk thence to Hofheim (2 m.), ascend to the chapel (^ hr.'s walk) to Eppstein (5 m.), visit the castle ; — to Konigstein (5 m.). In the evening explore the castle, and Falkcn- stein. Early next morning ascend the less and greater Feldberg (5 m.), then walk to the Altkonig (4 m.), back to Konigstein (4 m.), dine there. In the afternoon take the diligence to Sodeu, whence a branch railwavruns toHochst. (p. 227.) At Hattersheim a tolerable country road, but destitute of shade, tui-ns off to the N.W., and leads to the pretty village of Hofheim (2 m.). The chapel on the height commands a view which will well repay the troiible of ascending to it. The valley of Lorsbach, above Hofheim, as far as Eppstein (5 m.), is very beautiful indeed. Eppstein (Inn, The Oil Mill), de- lightfully situated at the junction of 4 valleys. The wild and sequestered village is wedged in a naiTow defile between rocks and mountains. The massy towers and donjons of the old baronial castle, perched like an eagle's nest on the most accessible point of rock, overhang it. The family of Eppstein seems nearly as old as that of Nassau ; many of its members were chancellors of the em- pu-e and ai'chbishops of Mayence. One of them crowned the Empr. Fredk. Barbarossa, at Aix-la-Chapelle, and aftei'wards was made Patriarch of Jeru- salem. The line became extinct in the 16th cent. : several of their monimients still exist in the village Church. The Castle now belongs to a gentleman of taste and knowledge of antiquities, who takes care of it, and has planted the little ten-aces with flowers, and made every part accessible. The castle is cut off from the moim.tain by a deep diy trench, evidently artificial. Konigstein is about 6 m. X.E. fr'om Eppstein ; the way thither lies thi-ough the pretty vale of Fischbach. " The whole landscape, the hanging woods, variously tinted by autumn, the jutting rocks, the sombre sequestered recesses in the glen, and the lonely stillness which pervaded the scene, sometimes reminded one of some of the least wild of Salvator's romantic scenes, or of the cool and lovely valleys of Caspar Pous- sin." — Autmmi near the Rhine. From Fischbach to Schneidhain the way lies across the open table-land — thence it ascends to Konigstein. — Inns : Post, or Stadt Amsterdam, good; the landlord has a trout stream : Lowe (Lion), which has a garden attached to it. This village is a post station on the high road fi'om Frankfurt to liimburg. Above it, on the height, rises the ruined Castle of Konigstein, a modem forti'ess with bastions and casemates, engrafted on a feudal stronghold of the middle ages, with battlements and watch-towers. It belonged originally to the Counts of Falkenstein, and afterwards to the Barons of Eppstein; was taken by Gustavus Adolphus in the Thii'ty Years' War, and by the French, who dis- mantled it and blew up its works in 1796. There is a fine view from it over the vaUcys of the Main and Ehine, while the neighbouring castles of Falk- enstein and Kronberg are most pic- turesque objects in the foregroimd. An excellent carriage-road goes from Konigstein to Soden, whence there is a branch railway to the Hochst station on the Frankfurt and Mayence Railway. Those who travel on foot, or who do not mind rough cross-roads, may con- tinue on to the Falkenstein, about a mile N.E. from Konigstein. This bold and picturesque i-uin is an imposing relic of a feudal stronghold and baronial resi- dence of the days of chivahy, and the exquisite view from it renders it one of the most interesting points of the tour. It was the cradle (Stammhaus) of a Nassau. ROUTE 9" -GREAT FELDBERG. HOMBURG. 225 noble family named Xuringen, before it was added to the possessions of the house of Nassau. 3 m. S.E. of Konigstein lies the watering-place of Soden, well pro\T.ded with lodging-houses : brine springs rise near it. There is a good road down the hill from Konigstein eastward to Kron- berg, 2 m., a village of about 1400 Inhab., prettily situated, surrounded by orchards and nursery gardens. Here is another ruined Castle ; its owners, a knightly family, were engaged in con- stant feuds with the city of Frankfiu-t, A painting, still existing, represents a victory gained by its barons over the burghers of the free city. There is a mine- ral spring at Kronthal, a little farther on, to which people resort in summer ; and the Kiu'haus aiFords good quarters. The Great Feklberg, the highest of the Taunus moimtains, rises imme- diately to the N. of Falkenstein and Kronberg. The summit, 26t30 ft. above the sea, is accessible for carriages, and is about 3 m. distant. It commands one of the most extensive panoramic views to be met with in X. Germany, including the Rhine and Main, the great cities and toT^Tis on their banks as far as Strasburg, whose spii'e is said to be visible in clear weather, and the moimtain ranges of the Black Forest, Vosges, Mont TonneiTc, Odenwald, and Taunus, A huge fragment of quartz rock at the top of the Feldberg is call-ed Brime- hilda's bed, from a tradition that a beautiful Frankish queen of that name took refuge here from her enemies. Upon the Altkonig (2400 ft.), the near- est neighbour S.E. and the mountain next in height to the Feldberg, are the remains of ancient entrenchments, of unknown origin, composed of vast heaps of stones piled up in circles. There is a direct road from Kronberg to Frankfurt; but the journey may be agreeably extended by continuing on- wards through a pretty eounti-y to Ober- Ursel, where the old chmx-h is curious, and thence to HOMBCRG. — Inns : H. MaiUard ; H. d'Angletcrre, well situated; Hcs- sischer Hof, moderate ; Hotel Quatre Saisons, new and large, with a tablc- [b, & R.] d'hote at 5. 2nd class Irms : Goldener Adler ; Engel ; H. de Frankfurt. The rent of good lodgings in good situations varies from 15 to 20 florins per week for 3 or 4 rooms, and fr-om 5 to 7 fl. for a single bedi-oom, from June to Sept. House -rent has risen considerably within the last few years. Homburg is a small town of 3500 inhab., prettilv situated on an eminence in the midst of cultivation, and half surrounded by projections from the Taimus. The dis- covery of Mineral Springs, partly by boring Artesian wells, has converted Homburg, since 1844, into a fr-equented watering-place. The waters are very valuable in cases of disordered liver and stomach. There are 5 springs: that of Elizabeth, compared with the Rakoczy at Kissingen, contains more carbonic acid than any other saline spa known, and on that accoimt sits lightly on the dyspeptic stomach; the Stahl- brimnen, like the ferruginous water of Spa ; Kaiserbrunnen, similar to the Carlsbad water; Badequellc, a salt spring like that of Kreuznach ^ and Ludicigs- briinnen. Dr. Prytherch is the resident English physician. On the reputation of these waters some French speculators have built, at a cost of 20,000/., a Kvrhav.s, one of the most splendid in Germany, decorated internally with fi-escoes, &c., by artists from Munich. It contains halls, dining (table-d'hote at 2 and 5), cofiee, and smoking rooms ; also a reading room, where English and foreign papers and periodicals are taken in. The real de- stination of the building is as a gaming- house, that disgrace to the minor princes of Germany, and it furnishes the chief som-ce of revenue to the state of Hesse Homburg. Let those who are disposed to risk their money inquire what is the character of the managers, and be on their guard. The expenses of such an enormous and splendid establishment must be paid out of the pockets of tra- vellers. About 50,000 florins are lost here annually by the public in play. It is only fair to obsen'e that an admi- rable band provided by the managers, plays thrice a day on the walks, and that the establishment affords groat accom- modation to strangers. N 526 EOUTE 98. IXGELHEIM. Sect. IIT. The chief building is the gloomy Palace of the Prince of Hesse Homhnrg, or Schloss. Its most conspicuous feature is a lofty detached tower in the prin- cipal court, resembling an old Scotch castle, a remnant of a former building. Over the inner gateway peers forth an equestrian figure of Prince Frederick of Hesse, who by a bold charge gained the victor}^ of Fehrbellinn over the Swedes for the Great Elector of Brandenburg. It contains a collection of Roman an- tiquities dug up on the Saalburg, 3 m. off. The gardens immediately attached to the castle were tastefully laid out in the style of English pleasure-groimds, by the late Landgravine Elizabetli (daughter of George III.), but are neg- lected and going to ruin. Between these and the foot of the Taimus extend a succession of flower - gardens and shrubberies on either side of the public road, itself an avenue of fine Lombardy poplars. Beyond this lies the Park, and on the slopes of the hills are many pleasant walks and drives cut in all directions through the woods and forests around, which clothe the sides of the Taunus ; so that the wanderer may penetrate for miles under the refreshing shade of the forest, and may at last find himself on the summit of some emi- nence, commanding the country far and ■Niade. Tlie salt-v:orks of Nauheim, with the interesting boiling fountain, are distant 1:^ hr.'s drive K.E. from Hom- burg. The road runs through Fried- berg. (See Rte. 70.) English Church Sei^ice every Sunday. Homburg is 9 m. from Frankfurt, p. 215. 8 or 10 omnibuses run daily to and fro, in 1^ hr. ROUTE 98. BINGEN TO MAYENCE, BY INGELHEIM. 3^ Germ. m. = 16 Eng. m. There are 2 roads fi-om Bingen to Mayence ; one along the rt. bank of the Rhine, the most interesting, but not a post -road, described in Rte. 38, and the following, on the 1. bank, but at some distance from the river side. Both are traversed daily by Schnellposts. On quitting Bingen, it sku-ts the base of the Rochusberg, and begins to ascend a long but gradual eminence. Near the top stands a small obelisk erected by the French, bearing the in- scription, "Route de Charlemagne, termine en I'an I. du regne de Napo- leon." From this point, and from the heights a Kttle further on, the view is most channing, extending over the Rhine, through the whole of the Rhein- gau, as far as the distant range of the Taunus. In such a situation it was that Charlemagne built his favourite residence of 1^ Ingelheim, now reduced to a miserable village, about 1:^ m. from the bank of the Rhine. Some writers suppose that it was the birthplace of Charlemagne ; at least he loved to dwell here, and built himself (768 to 774) a magnificent palace, which he decorated with 100 columns of marble and por- phyry, the spoils of Roman buildings, and with rich mosaics, sent to him by Pope Hadrian from Ravenna for that purpose. The site of the edifice is now occupied by mud hovels and dung- heaps, and partly by a Jews' burying- ground. It stood near the smaller of the two churches — the one nearest to Mayence ; and the only relics remain- ing of it are a few mutilated fragments of pillars within the church, and a column of granite inserted in a comer of an old ruined gateway. In the church is also shown the monument of one of Charlemagne's 4 queens, a rudely carved stone, on which a female figure, crowned and in regal attire, is discernible. The ornaments round the stone in the pointed style indicate clearly that it is of a much later time than the reign of Charlemagne. These paltry fragments, and a few mouldering walls, are aU that remain to teU where the palace of the great King stood. — The other church, on the side of Bingen, with a tall square tower, is an interest- ing example of the Romanesque style. The red wine of Ingelheim is verj' tolerable. 2 Mayexce (Rte. 38). ROUTE 99. mayence to FRANKFURT. — RAILWAY. 4^ Germ. m. = 20| Eng. m. This Pailroad, the Taunits-Bahrij Na ROUTE 100. — VALE OF THE XAHE. 227 opened in 1840, is a single line, double only in places to allow the ti-ains to pass each other. The Terminus is in Castel, opposite to Mayence, on the rt. bank of the Ehine. {Tnn, Bahrdt's.) Onmibuses ply to and fro for 12 kr. The branch lino to Wiesbaden (6 trains daily, in 16 min.) is carried right thi-ough the fortifications of Castel, passes fort Montebello to Mosbach Stat, whence a branch line (for horses) leads to Biebrich on the Rhine. Trains go 6 times a-day in 1^ h. to Frankfurt. Fare in the second class [Diligences') (there is a better class some- what more expensive), l-^ fl., including 40 lbs. of baggage. Any quantity above that pavs at a very extravagant rate, viz. 5 fl'. for 300 lbs. The transport of a jirivate carriage is 6j fl. A bridge-toll (briickengeld) of 30 kr. is paid for a carnage with 2 horses, in crossing the bridge of boats from Mayence to CasteL Castel belongs to Hesse Dannstadt ; but a little way out of the walls 2 painted posts, by the road-side, mark the frontier of Nassau. The railway is carried at first along the rt. bank of the Main, along the slope of the vineyards. About 4 m. on the road is Hochheim Stat., a village on the summit of a hill of moderate elevation. In its immediate vicinity, and along the sunny banks sloping down to the Main, for a space of 3 m., are the xine- yai-ds which produce the wine called Hoch, — a name improperly given by the E]iglish to Rhenish -wines. The best wine is gro\\Ti in the vine^'ards below the church, which are sheltered from cold winds by the houses of the town. They were anciently the pro- perty of the Chapter of Mayence, but now belong to the Dvike of Nassau, and are highly valuable. The narrow strip of ground upon which the railway passes through them was veiy costly. Florsheim Stat. 2^ HattersheimStat.(Nassauer Hof); a starting-place for an excursion to the Taunus Moimtains (Ete. 97). Hochst Stat., on the Nidda, which is crossed by a bridge. The chief build- ing in it is the deserted Palace of the Elector of Mainz, now propertj^ of Bo- longaro, a rich tobacconist, erected in the last cent. At Hochst there is a very old Church. Branch liaiiwau fi"o«i this to Soden (3 m.) at the foot of tlie Taunus, and diligence thence to Koniastein. (Ete. 97.) The Feldberg, the highest of the range, and the Castle of Falken- stein at its foot, are visible near this. The boundary of the territory of Frank- fiu-t is marked by an ancient watch- tower on the post-road to the 1. 2 Frankfurt-a-M. (Ete. 95.) Ter- minus, outside the St Gallus Thor. EOUTE 100, THE VALE OF THE XAHE. — BINGEX TO KREUZNACH AXD SAARBRuCK. 19| Germ. m. = 91 Eng. m. A post-road, macadamised. Schnell- posts daily to Saarbriick by EJi-euznach and Birkenfeld in 16 hi-s. To Treves daily in 14^ hi's. Omnibuses 6 times a-day between Bingen and Kreuznach for 10 sgr. The most beautiful scenery of the Nahe is confined to the vicinity of Kreuznach and Oberstern. A car- riage with 2 horses may be hu-ed ft'om Bingen to Kreuznach and back in 1 day (26 m.), for 7 or 8 fl., including the diive to Miinster- am- Stein (2^ m. beyond KJi-euznach), in order to visit the Eheingrafenstein. Omnibus fre- I quently to Kreuznach. The Nahe poui-s itself into the Ehine at Bingen, through a portal formed by the Eochusberg on the rt. ! side, and the Eupertsberg on the 1., [ after a coiu'se of scarcely 60 m., during which it bathes the ten'itories of 5 difi'erent sovereigns — Oldenbiu-g, Hesse Homburg, Prussia, Bavaria, and Hesse Darmstadt [ The road runs along the 1. bank of the Nahe, which is Prussian; the rt I belongs to Darmstadt : it passes the villages of Miinster, Laubenheim, and Brezenheim, before it reaches 2 Kreuznach (Inns: Oranienhof; Englischer and Pai'iscr Hof; Ehein- stein ; Pfalzer Hof; Adler ; Dheil's 1 lodging-house, well-conducted), a poor though populous town of 9000 Inhab. belonging to Prussia, in a pictm-esque situation, which has lately risen uito i great repute as a Matering-place, so N 2 228 ROUTE 100. — KEEUZXACH. EBERNBURG. Sect. III. that the accommodation is scarcely adequate to the number of visitors. Kreuznach is much resorted to on ac- count of its cold Saline Spring, situated on an island j m. above the town. A careful analysis has discovered the ex- istence in the water of iodine and bro- mine in small quantities. It has been found singularly beneficial in scrofu- lous cases, and the resort to it is rapidly increasing ; the number of visitors ex- ceeds 3000 annually. A Knrhaus and Baths are erected near it within a grove of acacias, and an avenue of poplars leads to the spot. There are also brine baths here. The ruined choii- of the C%,, near the bridge, is picturesque and of a good style (date 1332). A good \\c^x of Kreuznach may be had from the pleasure-groimd on the top of the Schlossherg. In 1632 Kreviznach was taken by assault by the troops of Gus- ta\^is Adolphus. A part}^ of English volunteers serving under him was most instrumental in its capture. The attack was led by Lord Craven, the champion of the Queen of Bohemia ; and not only he, but every English officer present, was wounded on this occasion. Bookseller. — Jiigel, of Frankfurt, has a shop here. Physician. — Dr. Oscar Prieger, who speaks English. There is a carriage-road hence to the top of the Bheingrafenstein, on the rt, bank of the Nahe, which commands a fine view up the river, and may be reached in ^ an hour's time. 2 m. above Kreuznach, on the 1. bank of the Nahe, are the Salinen, or Saltworks, of Theodorshalle ; and on the rt. bank those of Karlshalle, be- longing to the Grand Duke of Darm- stadt. They consist of a collection of very long sheds, filled with faggots, through which the salt water is made to trickle, after being raised by pumps, in order to evaporate it, and convert it into saturated brine, fit for the boiling- house. The springs naturally contain but 1^ per cent, of saline particles, which require to be raised to 26 or 28 per cent, to convert it into saturated brine. 1 m. fui-ther (3 m. from Kreuz- nach) is another extensive saline, called Miinster-am- Stein, built on a flat, nearly encircled by the Nahe, at the foot of the magnificent precipice of red porphyiy 600 ft. high, which is crowned by the Castle of BheingrafcU' stein, an ancient stronghold of the Rheingraves, destroyed by the French in 1689. It is literally perched, like an eagle's nest, on a pinnacle of the rock, and is accessible from the salt- works by a ferry and a very steep foot- path, but more easily by descending upon it from the hill above. From a neighbouring and still higher peak, called the Gans (Goose), the best view over the Xahe is obtained. [A little above the Rheingrafenstein, at the junction of the Alsenz with the Nahe, rises Ehemhurg, a castle which belonged to Franz of Sickingen, the last of the knights errant, the terror of Worms and Frankfiu't, who, though but a simple knight, besieged the cities of Metz and Treves with an army of 2000 horse and 17,000 foot, bidcling defiance to the Emperor. In this stronghold he sheltered from persecu- tion many of the early Eeformers, who were his bosom friends. Melancthon, Bucer, and (Ecolampadius, took refuge here under his roof; and Ulric von Hutten composed several of his works in this retreat. Its defences were so much augmented and strengthened, that it was thought capable of bidding defiance even to the armies of the em- pire. After Sickingen' s death, how- ever, his castle, though stoutly defended at first, was at length suiTendered to the Electors of Hesse and of Treves, who carried ofi" all the spoils, and then burnt it. The valley of the Alsenz con- tains some picturesque scenes and se- veral ruined castles. Inns : Miilloi-'s at Alsenz ; and Horster's (very fair) at Dielkirchen, 9 m. from the top of the Donnersberg (p. 230). Near Ober- moschcl is the quicksilver-mine of Landsberg, now unproductive. Be- tween Obermoschel and Meissenheim there are coal-mines, which extend all j the way from the Glan to the borders j of the Alsenz ; the quicksilver is also situated in the coal formation.] During the next stage from Kreuz- nach the road quits the side of the Nahe, and, leaving these castles and ^^assau. ROUTE 100. — OBERSTEIX. SAAEBEUCKEX. 229 the salt-TTorks considerably on the 1., proceeds direct to Sobemheim, passing on the rt. of the Castle and Abbey of Sponheim, the cradle of one of the no- blest and most ancient families on the Ehine. 1. near Staudemheim lie the exten- sive ruins of the convent of Dissibo- denberg, A little below Sobemheim the Xahe receives the waters of the Glan. '2\ Sobemheim [Inns : Post ; Adler), an old town, pop. 2300. In the 10th cent, the inhabitants, aided by the Pope, who granted them an indulgence for 2 5-ears, built a bridge over the Xahe ; since then the river has changed its bed, and left the bridge on dry land. At Martinstein a basin-shaped valley opens out, at whose extremity rise the majestic iiiins of the Casile of Dhaim, commanding a fine view. A path leads down from them, past the village of Dhaiui and Johannisberg, into the Xahe valley again. Below Johannis- berg a wild gorge opens out, through which a road rims to i 2-| Kim, — Inns: Eheinlander;"Wittwe Doll The scenery fi-om the Castle of Dhaun to Oberstein is magnificent, and will well repay the toilsome jour- ney from Kreuznach. | 2-^ Oberstein (^Tnns : Post; Caesar) is one of the dirtiest small to-wTis : it is possible to conceive. " It is very picturesque from its old ruined wooden buildings, and beautifully situ- ated on the Nahe, shut in by high and romantic clifi's, chiefly of porphj-ry or amygdaloid, abounding in agates, ame- thysts, &c., of great beauty and variety. The business of cutting and polishing them occupies a considerable number of the inhabitants. The stones are ground and polished by means of gi'ind- ing- stones of red sandstone, moved by water-wheels in nimierous small mills scattered along the neighbouring streams. There ai-e large polishing mills at Idar, l^m. off. Close to Ober- j stein are 2 fine precipitous isolated rocks. On the summit of each are re- mains of an ancient castle ; one still inhabited by peasants, the other quite a ruui. Immediately under the latter, | in the face of the precipice, about | of ; its height above the valley, a large ca-\-ity has been hollowed out, in which 1 the ancient Lutheran church may be 1 said to be embedded." — T. T. It is i approached by stairs cut in the rock. j The living rock forms the roof and one | side of the building ; the other side is ; built up with a wall of masomy, in which are 2 large windows to light the interior. A spring of wator gushes " out of the floor. j The agate manufactory is not so pro- j fitable as formerly ; but the locality is interesting to the mineralogist, as, in '. addition to very fine and large agates, < he will here be enabled to collect many I other rare minerals and crystals, as ■ chabasite, harmotome, &c. . Oberstein belongs to the distant ] duchy of Oldenburg. The territory ; on the opposite side of the river for- 1 merly belonged to Saxe Cobm-g, but has [ been sold to Prussia. : The vale of the Nahe loses its beauty 1 and interest above Oberstein. The ! road continues excellent. j 2i Birkenfeld (/««, kept by Widow ! Medicus) is the chief town of the : principality of that name, belonging to ' Oldenburg, and contains a plain white- washed Ducal Chateau. [A hilly, but well macadamised road, i pro^aded with post-horses, leads over the bleak high land of the Hochwald, , from Birkenfeld, by Hemieskeil (a straggling ^-illage, containing nothing \ remarkable), 3 Germ, m., to Treves, 4 i Germ. m. = about 32 Eng. m.] , 3:^ St. Wendel. A fine Church here. | Ij Ottweiler. Friedi-ichsthal. ! At Duttweiler, about 3 Eng. m. N. of Saarbriicken, is a seam of coal which has been on fire for 140 yeai's. It is called " der hrennende Berg J' 4 Saarbriicken or Saarbriick (7?i>is ; ' Post ; Bar), a Prussian to^-n of 8000 Inhab. on the Saar, which here begins to be na^-igable, and is crossed by a bridge connecting the town with tho | suburb of St. Johann. The Schloss \ was, down to 1793, the residence of the ' Princes of Nassau- Saarbriicken ; and in the ScMosskirche are some monu- ments of them. There are several coal- mines in the neighboiu-hood. About 230 ROUTE 100. — SAAELBRUCK TO TREVES. Sect. III. 2 m. S. of Saarbiiicken, and higher up the valley of the Saar, is Amiial, with a fine Gothic church (1315), in which are some remarkable monuments of the Nassau- Saarbruckcn family. Schnellposts daily, to Saarloiiis and Saarburg ; to Mainz ; and to Ki-eiiznach. Steamboats rim daily between Saar- briicken and Saarlouis. Raibjcays to Metz and Paris ; — to Mannheim by Kaiserslautem, Ete-. 1 03. ROUTE 100 a. SAARBRDCK TO TPwEVES, BY SAARLOUIS. 12} Gei-m. m. = 56| Eng. m. Schnell- post daily in 10 hrs. The road from Saarbriicken (see Ete. 100) to Treves descends the beautful valley of the Saar. 3-^ Saarlouis {Inns: Eheinischer Hof ; Salm), a strong frontier fortress of Prussia, with a long stone bridge over the Saar, which flows half round the town, and sometimes dimng the winter lays part of it under water. The forti- fications, constructed by Yauban, in the com'se of 1 year, for a bet with Louis XIV., may be inundated by sluices. One of the barracks contains an Artesian well. Its name was changed diuing the first French revo- lution to Sarrelibre. The Inhab. (7000) are partly descended from English prisoners placed here by Louis XIY. It is the birthplace of Marshal Ney, whose father's house is marked by a tablet. By the peace of Eysw^k, France was left in possession of Saar- louis, but it was transferred to Pnissia | by the treaties of 1814-15. | 2^ Merzig. At about one- third of the I way between this place and Saarburg, j at Mettlach, was a Benedictine abbey, ! founded in the 7th cent., now a pottery, j The ruins of a castle Montclair peer j down upon the valley from an almost | inaccessible cliiF. The Saar is crossed by a ferry, and the road ascends. About 1 3 m. before reaching Saarburg, and off , the road near the river, is Castel, in a ; lofty position, originally a Roman castle, repaired in 1838 by the present King of Prussia as a chapel in which to burj' | the remains of King John of Bohemia, i only son of the Emp. Henry VII., who was killed in the battle of Crecv, 1346. 3 J Saarhurg (/nns : Funck's ; Post), a small town, placed in a pretty open- ing of the A'alley of the Saar, where the small stream called the Leuk falls into it. There is a waterfall on the Leuk, near some pictxu'csque niins of a Castle. The Saar is crossed near its junction with the Moselle at Conz ; date of bridge, 1782. Ausonius alludes to a very old one on this spot. " Qua bis tema fre- munt scopulosis ostiapilis." Near here are scanty remains of a summer palace of the Lower Empire. The Monument of Lyel is passed a little further on. 3 Treves (Ete. 41). EOUTE 101. MAYEXCE TO METZ : — RAILWAY FR03I KAISERSLAUTERN. 21^ Germ. m. and 7f French posts = 146 Eng. m. Diligence daily in 34 hrs. ; maUeposte in less. This road was made by Napoleon, to open a direct communication be- tween Mayence and Paris, and thence is called the Imperial road (Kaiser Strasse). 1^ Xiederolm. 1^ Worrstadt. 1:^ Alzei [Inns : Darmstadter Hof: Poste ; ziun Kaiser), a veiy ancient town (3500 Inhab.), known to the Eo- mans as Altiaia. The Castle, an ex- tensive ruin, was destroyed by the French in 1689. The road quits Hesse Darmstadt and enters Bavaria at the village of Morschheim. 1^ Kirchheim Boland {Inn, Poste), a town of 3200 Inhab., having iron- works in its Aacinity. [The Mont Tonnerre (Donnersberg) is about 6 m. distant. The road leaves it on the rt., winding round its base. It is mentioned by Tacitus, who calls it Mons Joris. During the French do- mination it gave the name to a De- partment, of which Mayence was the chief town. The moimtain is 209O Par. ft. above the sea, and is composed of poqihyry. On the plateau at the top is a farm-house, once an old convent, Darmstadt. ROUTE 102. — MAYEXCE TO STRASBUEG. 231 M-hicL. affords humble accommodation. It is enciix-led by a "wall, whose origin is vmknowTi, though it is supposed to be Eoman. The best xiev;- is obtained from the poiat called Hirtenfels, or from the signal tower which was erected for a trigonometrical survey, but it is not so fine as that from the Melibocus on the opposite side of the Ehine.J 11 StandebuhL 2 m. R of Dreisen lies GoUheim (/««, Hfrsch), where the Empr. Adol- jjhus of Xassau was slain bv the lance of his rival the Empr. Albert, 1298; a stone cross under an open chapel marks the spot 2^ Sembach. The Ch. of Otterberg, a little to the X.'^T. of Sembach, is a beautiful Gothic structure, begixa by the Empr. Conrad II., 1040, but com- pleted at a much later period- ic- Kaiserslautern [Inns : Donners- berg, very good ; Baierischer Hof, dear ; Post), a town of 6500 Inliab., in a very l^retty situation. Its antiquity is very great. The Empr. Barbarossa built a strong castle here, which was destroyed by the French in the War of the Suc- cession, and a prison now occupies its place. Three successive engagements took place near this in 1793-94, be- tween the French and Germans, in which the last gained some advantage. There are considerable woollen manu- factories here. Eaibcay to Hombiu'g, Mannheim, and Saarbiiick, called the Pfalzer - Ludwigsbahn. Ete. 103. Eilwagen to Alzsys. 2 Landstuhl Stat (/«ws : Engel ; Baierische Krone ; Post), a town of 1500 Inhab-, which formerly belonged to the Coimts of Sickiugen, whose Castle in ruins overhangs the town ; its walls are 24 ft. thick, and many of its chambers are hewn out of the rock. The brave and ehivah-ous Franz of Sickingen, the Cid and Bayard of Germany, the friend of Luther and of Gotz of Berlichingen, lost his life in it, in a bold struggle to defend it from the besieging forces of his deadly and powerful enemies, the Bishop of Treves and the Elector of Hesse. His death was caused by a heavy beam de- tached by a cannon-ball from the roof. f which fell on him and crushed him. j He was bmied under the altar of the I Catholic churchy where his monument, mutilated by the French, may stiU be seen. 1^ Bruchmiihlbach Stat. 1^ Homburg Stat {Inn, Karlsberg), a town of 2840 Inhab., has a hand- some church, built 1840. The foi-tress : upon the Schlossberg, celebrated in the i history of the Thiity Yeai-s' ^ar, was ! razed 1714. Omnibuses to Zweibriic- I ken in 1-i hour. 2 Euhrbach. A productive coalfield is reached at Bexbach and Xeunkirchen. At Renderich is the Bavarian fron- tier. 2 Saarbriicken Stat., Prussian. Ete. 100. 1^ Forbach is the first place within the French frontier. Eailway from Forbach to Metz [Iati, H- des Yictoires), and Paris. See Handbook for France. EOUTE 102. THE RHINE (E). MAYEXCE TO STRAS- BURG, BY WORMS, ilANXHEIM, AND SPIRES. The Rhine, above ]Mayence, loses all its beauty ; the wide plain thi'ough which it flows, bounded by the very distant chains of the Vosges and Hai-dt on the W., and the Odenwald and Black Forest on the E., is as dull and nearly as flat as HoUand. The river does not fall more than 22 ft between Spfres and Mannheun, A Railway is in progress from Mayence to Ludwigshafen, opposite to Mannheim. The following route passes through the tciritorj' of Hesse as far as "Worms, thence through Rhenish Bavaria to Marmhcim ; it conducts the traveller to the ancient Imperial cities of Wojtus and Spires, so iuteresting in an liisto- rical point of \xq^, and so dull and desolate in their present state. Those who prefer pretty- scenery should take the Rte. by Darmstadt and the Berg- strasse (R. 105). WTiichever Rte. is followed, the traveller should not omit to visit Heidelberg and Baden. 232 nOUTE 102. — NIERSTEIX. OPPEXHEIM. Sect. in. Steamers ascend the Ehine from I Mayence to Mannheim twice a-day, in 6 hrs., returning in 4; from Mann- I heim to Strasbiirg orSee Rte. 101. Bruchmiihlbach Stat, j The road quits the Bavarian territory and enters that of Prussia. Hamburg Stat. (See p. 231.) Omnibus to Zweibriicken in 1 hr. A productive ; coalfield is reached near ! Bexbach Stat. j Neunkirchen Stat. I Saarbriicken to I Treves. (See Rtes. 100, IOOa.) ROUTE 104. ilANXHEIil TO ZWEIBRUCKEN (dEUX FONTS), THROUGH NEUSTADT, LANDAU, AND ANNWETLER. 15 Germ. m. = 69 Eng. m. Rhenish Baran'a. route 104. — durkheim. neustadt. 241 Railvxvj to Xeustadt in 1 hr. (See Ute. 103.) Thence Eih.ragen daily. The cii-cle of the Rhine {Rhein Kreis) includes much pleasing scenery among the chains of the Haardt and Yosges mountains, and many old towns and castles, interesting from then- history. The following route, not much traversed hitherto by English travellers, lays open some of the most interesting objects in this part of the coimtiy, and will conduct to the prison of Eichard Coem-- de-Lion, an object of interest for all Englishmen. They must not expect, however, to meet with a good road, or ver\' capital accommodation. If the traveller keeps the post -road he will follow that from Mannheim to Mayence as far as 1-5 Oggersheim (p. 235). 2 Diirkheim. — Inn^ Tier Jahrs- zeiten, good. This town, of 5500 Inhab., was once the residence of the Princes of Leiningen-Hardenburg, whose palace was bm-nt by the French, 1794; it was originally a strong forti-ess, but its works have long since been razed ; it is now chiefly remarkable for its agree- able situation at the foot of the hills on the skirts of the plain of the Rhine, and at the entrance of the valley of the Isen- ach, up which rvms the road to Kaisers- lautem, and for its pleasing en^drons. The chief beauties of the Rheinpfalz begin at Diirkheim, on the borders of the Haardtgebirge. The proper way — indeed the only one — to explore its heights and valleys is on foot, guided by a good map — such as Reizmann's map of Germany, sheets 199 and 218, price 15 Sgr. each. "Within a short distance lie the salt- works of Phillipshall. The sxmimit of the nearest height, the Kastanienberg, is croMTied by the Heidenmauer (Pa- gan's Wall), a rampart of loose stones 8 to 10 ft. high, 60 or 70 wide at the base, enclosing a space of about 2 m. The Romans are said to have built it to keep in check the barbarians : and Attila is reported to have passed the Mdntcr in it, after haA'iug expelled the Romans, and when on his way to take possession of Rome itself. It has given a name to a novel of Cooper, the American. Near it is the Devil's I Stone, a natural rock, bearing the im- i pression of a gigantic paw, on which : the pagans are said to have sacrificed. ! The view from it over the plain of the Palatinate, along the Rhine and Xeckar as far as Heidelberg, and the near I prospect of fertile and industrious val- j leys, is highly pleasing. At the entrance of the Isenachthal, at I the top of a hill neaiiy encircled by the I stream, stand the graceful loiins of the ; Ahheii of Limhurg, with its vast church, ; foimded 1030, by Conrad the Salique, I in the style of the Dom of Spfres, and I destroyed by the Swedes 1632. The j height on which it stands commands fine I views, and is now converted into gar- dens. A crypt and part of the cloister remain. Within sight of the ruins of the abbey are those of Ilardenhurg , the castle of the Counts of Leiningen, its gTcatest enemies, who were engaged in constant feuds with the monks, and burnt the abbey in the 1 5th cent. One of the Raugi-afs of Hardenburg, having made the abbot his prisoner, built his head into the wall of the castle, with his face towards the abbey, that he might see the conflagration. The road to Xeustadt passes through Wachenheim, Forst, and Deidesheim, (/«7i, Baierischer Hof), all famous for the wines produced in the neighbour- ing vineyards. It is a most delightfril ride. Geologists will remark with in- terest the eruption of basalt, proceeding fi'om the mountain called Peclistein- Kopf : the basalt assiunes the shape of baUs. 2 Neustadt an der Haardt. — Inns : Post ; Golden er Lowe. This town of 8000 Inhab. is old and iminviting ■«-ithin, but its situation at the foot of the Haardt mountains is delightful. Its Church, finished in the 14th cent., contains curious monuments of the Pfalzgraves. In the fore-court, called the Paradise, some remains of ancient fi-esco paintings may bo traced. The neigh- bourhood abounds in ruined castles, many of which were reduced to their present condition in the Peasants' "War (1525). Railroad to the Rhine at Mannheim, to Kaiserslautem and Saarbriicken. On the hiU above the town rise the 242 KOUTE 104. LANDAU. AXXWEILEE. Sect. III. ivy- clad ruins of the Castle Winzingen, called Haardter Schlosschen (originally the summer residence of the Electors Palatiae, now attached to a modem viHa), and "Wolfshixrg, destroyed in the Thirty Years' War. It commands a fine view, extending as far as Heidel- b3rg castle. About 2 m. S. of Xeustadt is the Maxburg, formerly Castle of Hamhach, built by the Emp. Henry lY., who is said to have set out from hence on his disgraceful pilgrimage to Rome barefoot, in 1077, to appease the anger of the haughty Pope Hildebrand. It was presented to the Bang of Bavaria, on his maniage, by the Rheinkreis. He has begun to restore and rebuild it un- der the name of Maxhurg. The view from it is fine, but inferior to that from the Madenburg. Is ear Xeustadt very extensive quar- ries are excavated in the Buntersand- stein and Muschelkalk ; the latter abounds in fossils. The road passes Edenkoben {Inn, Schaaf, good), a town of 4500 Inhab., surrounded by "s-ineyards, producing a -wine of inferior quality. Xear at i hand may be seen the ch. and tower of | the ruined convent Heilsbruck. | 2 Laxdau. — Inns : Schwan ; Schaaf i (Sheep). This strong fortress of the i Germanic Confederation is occupied by ' a garrison of Bavarians, and numbers ! 6000 Inhab. It is situated on the | Queich, which fills its fosse with water, i It has been an object of contest in , every great European war from the 15th cent, and consequently its his- tory is nothing but a succession of } sieges, blockades, bombardments, cap- | tures, and surrenders. During the Thirty Years' War it was taken 8 times, by the ti'oops of Count Mansfeldt, by the Spaniards, Swedes, Imperialists, and French. In the 17th cent, it fell j into the hands of the French, -^^as for- I tified by Yauban, and was considered i impregnable until 1702, when it was taken by Margrave Lewis of Baden, i From 1713 to 1815 it remained in the i hands of the French. It stood a siege of 9 months in 1793, in the course of ] which 30,000 shells, &;c., were thi'own into it. In the following year the pow- der magazine blew up, and the bell of the Eathhaus was carried by the explo- sion as far as the Aollage of Godramstein, where it was dvig up in a meadow some years afterwards. The gates of the for- tress are shut at an early hour. An agi'eeable excm-sion may be made to the Madenburg, near Eschbach (Gun- tor's Inn), the most perfect castle in the Rheinpfalz, which long was the property of the Archbishops of Spires, ruined by the French 1680. The ■\iew from it is the finest in the district. A guide should be engaged at Eschbach to cross the hills to Trifels, 6 m. to the E. The walk from it through the woods to Annweiler, taking Trifels by the way, is about 8 m. A league from Landau, at Gleisweiler, is a hydro- therapic establishment kept by Dr. Schneider. The post-road from Landau to Zwoi- briicken is good. It runs up the pretty valley of the Queich, a beautiful pass of the Yosges, to 1-5 Annweiler. — Inn, Post. This is a town of 2600 Inhab,, on the Queich. The ruined castle of Trifels, memo- rable as the prison of Richard CcBur-de- Lion, is 5 m. distant. It is now a total ruin ; one square tOAver alone remains in a tolerably perfect state to attest its former strength ; but the subterranean dungeon, in which, according to tra- dition, he was confined, and watched night and day by giiards with drawn swords, is still pointed out. After being captured by his treacherous ene- my, Leopold of Austiia, on his return from the Holy Land, Richard was sold by him for 3(t,000 marks of silver to the Emp. Henry YL, who basely detained him a prisoner from 1192 to 11 94-. It was probably beneath these walls that the song of the faithful minstrel Blon- del fii'st succeeded in discovering the prison of his master, by procuiing the vocal response from the royal trou- badour. In 1193 his shameless jailor, the Emp., brovight Richard in chains before the Diet at Hagenau, to answer the charge of the miirder of Conrad of MontfeiTat, which he repelled with such manly and persuasive eloquence, and proved so clearly his innocence, that the Diet at once acquitted him, and ordered his chains to be knocked Bhenish Bavaria, eoute 105. — feaxkfurt to basle. 243 off. In 1194 he ^ras released from Trifels in consideration of a ransom of 130,000 marks of silver. The castle of Trifels stands on the summit of a singular mountain of sandstone (Buntersandstein) called the Sonnenberg, 1422 ft. above the sea- level. It was a favoiirite residence of the Gei-man emperors, and must have been a place of great magnificence as -well as strength. Frederick Barba- rossa, and many of his predecessors and successors, held their court here, and the Regalia of the empire "were depo- sited within its walls for security. It was also used as a state prison for many luifoituuate captives besides Eiehard of j England. It has remained a ruin | ever since the Thirty Years' TTar, when ' it was taken by the Swedes ; but it has j something imposing even in its present j state. The walls of the donjon are j very thick, and 40 ft. high, the cha- | pel has been sti'ipped, and the mar- ! ble pillars removed fi'om it to the | ch. of Annweiler. An agreeable path leads up from the to-wn to the castle, 3^ hr. walk, whence the view is very pleasing ; two of the neighbouring heights are also crowned with castles. iomweiler contains nothing remark- ! able, but the scenery of the valley of , the Queich, for 12 m. above it, should i not be left unseen. The scenery be- | tween Annweiler and Dahn is paii:icu- larly interesting fi-om the extraordinary forms assumed by the sandstone rocks (Buntersandstein), which have been split and fissiu'ed in all directions. At | Willgartswiesen (//m, Lamm ; good and cheap) is a pretty new Ch. with j twin towers. A walk of 2 hrs. by | Hauen stein, with a guide, brings you to Dahn (//m, Ritter St. Georg), near \ which rises the overhanging rock | called Jungfernsprmig. Dahn may be j \isited by a slight detour on the way i to Pirmasens ; the distance is about \ 15 m. 2 Kaltenbach. 1:^ Pii-masens (/««, Post, Lamm), a ! \o\vn of 5(»00 Inhab. i 2^ Zwcibriicken {French^ Deux \ Ponts). — Inns : Post ; Zweibriicker Hof. A town of 7300 Inhab., in a very pictiu-csque situation, once the . capital of the duchy of Zweibriicken, or Deux Ponts. the dukes resided in the Po.la e, partly destroyed by the French, and the remains now converted into a Catholic ch. The name of this place is siipposed to be derived from the Uco bridges leading across the river Erbach to the palace. The Princi- pality once belonged to the crown of Sweden, but fell by inheritance to the King of Bavaria, to whom it now be- longs. The series of the Classics known as "The Bipont Edition" was printed here by a society of learned men in 1779. Eihragen daily to Carlsnihe. Zweibriicken is 1:^ Germ, m, distant from Hombiu-g, which is on the road fi-om Mayence to Metz, and has a Stat, on the Mannheim and Saarbriick rail- way. (Rte. 101.) EOUTE 105. FRANKFURT TO BASLE, BY DARMSTADT, HEIDELBERG, CARLSRUHE, AXD FREI- BURG. — RAILWAY. From Frankfru-t to Heidelberg or Mannheim, in 3 hrs. by the Main- Xekar Eise-ahahn. — 10^ Germ. m. = 46^ Eng. m. Heidelberg to Haltingen Stat. 4 m. from Basle, in 9 hrs., by the Badische Staatsbahn. — 34 Germ. m. =156^ Euo* m- Terminits in Frankfru-t outside the GaUus Thor. The line crosses the Main at Frank- fui-t by a new bridge, and passes 1. on the height the icatch-tower of Sachsen- haxsen, whence the xiew over Frank- fru-t, the Main, the distant Taimus, and the immediate foregroimd of neat villas and A-ineyards is very pleasing. At Sachsenhausen the railway to Offenbach tui-ns off to the E. Langen Stat. The coimtry, as far as Darmstadt, is flat and iminteresting. Darmstadt Stat. — Inns: Darm- stadter Hof ; Traube (Bimch of Grapes). Kohlers, near the railway stat., outside the Rheinthor, is a handsome building. Darmstadt, the capital of the Grand Duchy of Hesse Darmstadt, the residence of the Grand Didce, and seat of the gOYcrnment and ^44 ROUTE 105. — DAEMSTADT. Sect. III. chainbers, has a pop. of 22,000 (chiefly Protestants). It is a dull, uninteresting to\\Ti, which need not detain the ti'a- veller long. The appearance of tor- pidity is increased by the extent of surface over which it is spread. The streets are straight and very wide, the squares numerous ; and many of the houses are built singly, with intervals between them. The old town, with its dark and confined streets, is very pro- perly kept in the background, and none of the great thoroughfares jmss through it. Near the end of the Rhein- strasse, leading from the railway, rises a Cohnnn, 134 ft. high, suiTaounted by a statue of the Grand Duke Louis, by Schv:anthaler. The Catholic Ch. built by Moller, a native architect, is worth notice. Its exterior is of brick ; the interior, a ro- tunda, 173 ft. in diameter and 123 ft. high, sun'ounded by pillars, 50 ft. high, is imposing, though simple. The Grand Duke lives in a New Palace of no great architectural preten- sions, next door to the Traube Hotel. The Old Palace (Altes Schloss) has been fi.tted up as a residence for the Hereditary Grand Duke (Erb- Gross Herzog). It is a structiu-e of various ages, fi-omthe 16th to the 18th; still surrounded by a chy ditch, now con- verted into a shrubbery and garden. It contains likewise the Mxseum of Paint- ings and of Natural History. Among the 700 pictures which fill the gallery, the following seem best worth notice : — The Purification of the Virgin by William of Cologne, sometimes called William Calf, a rare master. — Schoreel, the Death of the Yu-gin. — L. Crananch, portrait of Albert of Brandenburg, Ai-chbp. of Mayence, as St. Jerome with his lion ; and of Luther and his "Wife. — Portraits of Louis XIV. and XV., Cardinal Mazarin, Maria Lec- zinsky, Marie Antoinette, Cardinal Fleury, and Madame du Bany, by French artists. — In the Dutch School : 8chaU;e)i, portrait of "William III. of England. — Vandgk, Virgin and Child; sketch of the portrait of Lord Pem- broke.— P. Potter (-?), Cow and Herd, ■with a horn. — Uckhout, a Man's Head. — Tenters, Peasants. — P. de Hooge, I Dutchman and his Wife. — Remhrandty I portrait of his Second "Wife. — Italian \ School : P. Veronese, sketch of the great picture in the Louatc of the Maniage ' in Cana. — Titian (?), a Venus (doubt- ful). — Velasquez, a Child in a white frock. — Domenichino, David and Na- than. — Raphael (?), St. John in the VTildemess, varj'ing slightly from the paintings of the same subject at Flo- rence, and in the Stafford gallery ; the Archangel Michael. St. Genoveva by a modem German artist, Steinhruck. There is some very curious painted glass in this gallery, and numerous an- tique ivory carvings, enamels, &:c. " In the Collection of Coins are many of the thin and barbarous Bracteatse of the middle ages." — F. S. Ilnseum of Natural History. The most valuable and interesting part of this collection are the fossils, found in the neighbom-hood of the Rhine, such as remains of the whale and elephant, some from the bed of the Rhine : seve- ral very perfect skulls, and numerous other bones of rhinoceros from Oppen- heim ; of Sus antiquus and Mastodon from Eppelsheim : numerous perfect jaws and other remains of the Deinothe- rium, an extinct amphibious animal, equalling the elephant in size, and feeding like the Dugong upon herbs and weeds growing in the water. These imequalled specimens were found in sandpits at Eppelsheim, near Alzei, along Avith mariae shells. The fossils of this museum have been de- scribed in a work published by Dr. Kaup. The Palace also contains a good Public Library of 200,000 vols. ; the inhabitants of the town are allowed to take books home. The Theatre (Hof-Opemhaus), near the Palace, was built in 1819 from the designs of Moller. Near the theatre is the Exercire Haus (Diilling House), a sort of large riding-school. It was built for the purpose of drilling the garrison under cover in bad weather, and is re- markable for the great size of its roof, 157 ft. broad, and 319 ft. long ; con- structed, it is said, by a common car- penter, after architects of pretension had declared the task impossible. The H. Darmstadt. EOUTE 105. ODEXWALD. 245 building now sei"\'es as a depot for aitillery. The Gardens of the Palace (Bosquet, or Hcrmgarten) are very prettily laid out, but sadly neglected; one \oity white poplar is remarkable ; within them is the giave of Margia^TJie Henrietta Cai-oline, great-grandmother of the present King of Pmssia. The spot was chosen by herseK in her lifetime, and Frederick the Great engTaved upon her lUii the words, " Sexu fcemina, ingenio vir." The landlord of the inn will intro- duce the traveller to the Casino club. The House of Commons of the duchy assembles under the same roof, and, at particular seasons, balls, concerts, and assemblies take place in it. There is very little commerce at Darmstadt ; the inliabitants depend in a great measure on the court. A mile or two out of the town is the preserve, where icild boars are kept for the ducal chasse. Strangers are often taken in the evening to see the animals fed Eiludijen daily to Mayence (4:- Germ, m. in 3 J hrs.), by Gross-Gerau, cross- ing the Main by a ferry opposite Castel. Eberstadt Stat. A little beyond this (1.) is the ruined castle of Frankenstein. The picturesque district called the Odemcald (forest of Odin) begins a few m. S. of Darmstadt, not far from this station. It lies to the E. of the railroad and of the high road to Hei- delberg, and some of its most inter- esting scenes, particularly the Melibo- cus, may be -v-isited on the way thither. The entire exciu-sion may not suit the taste or convenience of all travellers; but the ascent of the Melibocus mountain should be omitted by none, as it cannot fail of affording gratification by its fine panoramic "sdew. [A very good but hilly road leads from Darmstadt to Heidelberg, through the heart of the Odcnwald, amid scenery of gi'cat interest. The stats, are Brens- bach, Erbach (see p. 2-46), and Hii-sch- hom. The distance, 55 m. The best sleeping place is Michelstadt, but as the Inn (Lion) is not good it is better to push on.] The P^ailroad, for the greater part of the way, runs near the old post-road from Darmstadt to Heidelberg, which is celebrated for its beauty. It is called Bergstrasse (moimtain road, from the Latin strata montana, although, in fact, perfectly level), because it runs along the base of a range of hills, which form the E. boundary of the valley of the Bhinc- Its chief beaut^k' arises from the feitilitA' and high cultivation of the district it overlooks, rich in its luxiiriant vegetation of vines and maize, enlivened by glimpses of the Bhinc, and bounded by the outline of the Yosges moimtains in France. (1.) The wooded and vine-covered range of mountains, with their old castles, form- ing the boimdary of the Odenwald, runs parallel with the raiboad and at a short distance from it ; rt. stretches a vast sandy flat, through which the Bhine wanders, bounded by the heights of Mont TonneiTe and the Yosges at 50 or 60 m. distance. The villages and towns are beautifully situated at the foot of the mountains, overhung by vine-covered slopes, and embosomed in orchards, which extend in cheerful avenues along the road fi-om one town to another. "Almost every moxmtain of the Bergsti-asse, and many of those in the Odenwald, are crowned by a castle ; which, embosomed in the woods of beech, or surrounded by vineyards, adds the interest of its anti- quity and chivalrous associations to the charms of the landscape." — Autamn near the Bhine. Z^vingenberg Stat, close under the woody Melibocus. Those who wish to ascend the Meli- bocus should leave the railroad here (/«n, Lowe). Take refreshments with you — none are to be had above — and ask for the key of the tower. The -s-isit, including ascent and descent by Schloss Auerbach, the best way to return to the road, occupies 3 hi's. walking. The tower alone commands the xiavr on the side of the Odenwald, over its forest-clad hills ; the keys are kept at Auerbach, and at Alsbach. The whole excm-sion to the Melibocus, Felsberg, Felsenmeer, and through the valley of Schonberg back to Auerbach and Zwingenberg, occupies about 6 hrs. 246 EOUTE 105.— THE MELIBOCUS. EEBACH. Sect. III. The MeUhocus, or Malchen, is a conical hill of granite, 1632 Paris ft. above the sea : it is the highest of the Oden-vrald chain of hills, and is conspicuous far and -^de, on account of the white tower on its top, erected 1772, as a Belvedere. The view from it is most extensive, owing to the vast expanse of flat in the valley of the Ehine below. " The more distant objects are, Spu-es, and Mannheim with its slated dome to the 1. ; Worms and its Gothic c-athedral, opposite ; and the dark towers of jSIayence, lower down. The tower is built' on the very edge of the declivity. The smoking villages, the gardens, vineyards, and orchards of the Bergstrasse, appeared immediately be- neath us. We traced the course of the Ehine, which now gleamed in the bright sun, and appeared little removed from the base of the moimtaui, from above Maxmheim, almost to Bingen, a distance of nearly 60 Eng, m. At Bingen it loses itseKin the defiles of the Rheingau mountains, which bound the \dew on that side. The course of the placid Neckar and itsjimction with the Ehine are veiy visible, as also that of the Main. By the help of a good tele- scope, in a clear day, you may distin- guish the tower of Strasburg cathedral, at a distance of above 100 Eng. m. Towards the X. the view reaches the moimtains in the neighboixrhood of Giessen, in Hesse, 60 m. distant. To the E. lies the Odenwald, over the chaotic wooded hills of which the pro- spect sti-etches as far as the vicinity of AViirzburg— a distance of 60 or 70 m. ; while on the W., across the Rhine, the eye ranges over the smooth plain, till it is bounded by the blue broken tops of the Mont Tonnerre and the Yosgcs moimtains, at a nearly equal distance." Autumn near the Ehine. [Those who intend to extend their walk through the Odex^vald continue by a convenient path to another moun- tain, the Felsberg, 3 m. off, sunnountcd by a hunting-lodge (Jagerhaus), which also commands a fine "sdew. The valley which separates it from the Melibocus is one of the wildest in the Odenwald A little way from the Jagerhaus, on the declivity of the hill, by the side of the path leading to Reichenbach, lies the Riesensdule (Giant's Cokimn), a gi- gantic column of hard syenite, similar to the rock of which the mountain is composed, and without doubt quar- ried on the spot ; it is about 30 ft. long, nearly 4 in diameter, and taper- ing towards one end. Its origin and use are imknown, but it must be of great antiquity. Not far off lies a vast block of the same stone, called Eiesenaltar^ bearing on it incisions and marks of the saw. The appearance of these vestiges of human power and art in the depths of a sequestered forest is peculiarly striking, and not easily ac- counted for. Some have supposed that they are of German origin, and were intended to form part of a temple of Odin. It is more probable that they are the work of Roman artificers, dviring the time they were established in this part of Germany, which was included in the Agri Deciunates. It was at one time proposed to erect the coliman on the field of Leipzig, as a monument of that victory — a project more easily started than executed. The Felsenmeer (Sea of Rocks) is a singular accumulation of fragments of syenite, some of vast size, heaped upon one another, and extending from neai- the top of the Felsberg ahnost to Reichenbach. They are of the same kind of rock as the mountain itself, so cannot have been transported from a distance. They appear like an avalanche of stones, hiu'led by some convulsion of natiu'e from the summit. From this point again the traveller has the choice either of returning to Zwingenberg Station, by way of Reichenbach and Auerbaeh, or of proceeding about 18 m. from Auer- baeh, along a tolerable road, passing through Schonberg, Reichenbach, the hUl of Winterkasten, and Reichels- heim, to Erhach {Inn^ Zum Odenwald ; no good inn). This small tovro. is situated in a valley lying upon the new red sandstone (Buntcrsandstein) and muschelkalk of geologists. The Castle of the Counts of Erhach, a modem building, erected on the site of an ancient baronial residence, the greater part of which, except the H. Darmstadt, p.oute 105.— erbach. castle of rodensteix. 247 donjon to^rer, was removed in the last cent., contains a very interesting Ar- mov.ry, highly deserving of a visit. There are many suits, an-anged, some on horsehack, in the attitude of the toiuTiament, others on foot. The history of every one is known : many have belonged to ancestors of the family, others have been worn by robber knights (Raubritter), not a few of whom expiated their crimes on the wheel or scaifold. Those which have a more general historical interest are, the suits of Philip the Good of Bur- gundy, the Empr. Frederick III., Maximilian I. of Austria, Gian Gia- como Medici, Margrave Albert of Brandenbm-g, Gustavus Adolphus, and "Wallenstein. The last two, with many other suits in the collection, were brought n-om the arsenal at Xurem- berg. Here is besides the panoply of Franz of Sickingen, and his fiiend Gutz of Berlichingen, with the iron hand, brought from Heilbroim, and a small suit made for Thomele, the dwarf of the ArchdiLke Ferdinand of Austria, and worn by him on some festive occa- sion when he was presented in a pie to the company seated at table. There are other curiosities in the castle, such as fire-anns of various periods, painted glass, antiques, vases, &c. ; in short, it is highly worthy of a \-isit fi-om strangers. In the chapel are the cofl&ns in v\-hich Eginhard, secretary and son- in-law of Charlemagne, and the faith- ful Emma his wife, were buried ; they were removed fi-om the church in Seli- genstadt in 1810. Eginhard was an ancestor of the Erbach family. Erbach is connected by a very good post-road with Darmstadt ; the dis- tance is o-i Germ, m., and the coim^try is very beautiful. There is also a way from Erbach to Heidelberg by Beer- felden and Eberbach on the Xcckar, from M'hence the descent of that river may be made in a boat, or the road along the banks may be followed. About 9 m. X.W. from Erbach, between Eeichelsheim and Bilstein, and near the fonncr place, in a wild and secluded mountain district, surrounded by forests, lies the Castle of Jlodenstein, ■ the scat of the singular superstition of I I the icild Jager, the Knight of Eoden- { stein, who, issuing from out the ruined walls of the. neighbouring castle of Schnellert, his iisual abode, announces the approach of war by traversing the air with a noisy cavalcade, to the Castle : of Bodenstein, situated on a solitary mountain opposite. " The strang'e noises heard on the eve of battles are authenticated by affidavits preseiwed in i the village of Eeichelsheim ; some are of so recent a date as 1743 and 1796, and there are persons who profess to have been convinced by their eyes as weU as their ears. In this manner the people assert that they were fore- warned of the victories of Leipzig and Waterloo. If the spectral host return at once to Schnellert, nothing mate- rial occurs ; but if the hixntsman tarry with his train, then some momentou's event, threatening evil and calamity ^ to Germany, is expected by the people i to occm*. The flying army of Boden- stein may probably be owing to a simple cause. The power of -the wind is very great, and its roar singularly solemn and sonorous in these vast districts of forest. In the pine forests it some- times tears up thousands of trees in a night." — Autumn near the Bhine. The legend of the Wild Himtsman has been attributed, with some proba- bility, to another cause— the passage at night of vast flocks of the larger birds of passage, as cranes, storks, &:c., through the air in their annual migi-a- tions. The rustling of so many wings, and the wild cries of the fovd, heard in the darkness of night and in the solitude of the forest, may easily have fm-nished the superstitious peasant with the idea of the aerial huntsman and his pack. Since the dissolution of the German empire, the spectre, it is said, has given up his nocturnal chase ; at least, the inhabs. of the farm-house standing directly imder the Bodenstein have not, for many years, been dis- turbed by noise or sight that can be traced to a ghostly origin. There is a road from Eeichelsheim by Fiirth to "Weinheim Stat, on the Bergstrasse.] 248 ROUTE 105. — AUEREACH. STAEKENBURG. Sect. III. The Railroad rims nearly parallel with the Bergsti-asse from Darmstadt to Weinheim, -where it diverges to cross the Neckar at Ladenhurg, be- yond which it joins the railroad be- tween Mannheim and Heidelberg half- way between those towns. On the 1. not far beyond the Zwin- genberg Stat, lies Auerbach {Inns : Krone (Cro^vn), good; — Rose), one of the prettiest \-illages on the Berg- strasse. It is sometimes resorted to as a watering-jdace, on account of a mi- neral spring in the neighbourhood. In the village itself there is nothing re- markable, but it is worth while to explore the beauties of its neighbour- hood. A gi-adual ascent, practicable for a light char, leads past the Brunnen to the ruins of the Castle of An.erberg, one of the most picturesque in the Odenwald, 2 m. from the village. It was dismantled by the French under Turenne, 1G74, and time is fast com- pleting the work of destruction begun by man ; one of its taU slender towers fell in 1821, and the other threatens to follow it. The hill on which it stands is composed of granite and gneiss. A shady and easy path conducts from the ruins to the Melibocus ; guides and mules are to be hii-ed by those who re- quire them, and carriages can safely ascend, A little S. of Auerbach is a hillock in the middle of a field, called Landberg, upon which in ancient times the Burgraves of Starkenburg held, in the open air, their tribunal called Gaugericht. Bensheim Stat, (/nn, Sonne), a town of 4000 Inhab., with a new ch. in the round style, built by MoUer. [About 3 m. AV. of Bensheim, off the road, is the i-uined Abbey of Lorsch, the oldest Gothic edifice in this part of Gei-many. A fragment of a portico, which served as an entrance into the original church, consecrated in 774, in the presence of Charlemagne, his queen, and two sons, still exists. The rest of the building is of the 11th cent., and exhibits a specimen of the debased Roman style. A part of the building, at present used as a storehouse for fruit, dates from 1090. Lorsch is now only interesting to the antiquarian and architect The holy monks who founded the abbey not only spread ci- -<.-ilisation and religion thi'ough the sur- rounding countiy, but redeemed it from the state of a wilderness, like the back-woods of America, and brought it under cultivation. In process of time the priory surpassed in wealth and extent of possession many bishop- rics and principalities. Duke Thassilo of Bavaria, deposed by Charlemagne, for treason, ended his days here as a monk.] Heppenheim Stat. — Inn, Halber Mond (Half Moon), good, capital trout, and vnne of the counfry. This small town of 3700 Jnhab., like most others on the Bergsti-asse, has an ancient and decayed appearance, but is prettily situated. The church was built by Charlemagne. On a commanding height behind rise the towers of Stark- enburg Castle, built 1064 by the abbots of Lorsch as a defence against the at- tacks of the German Emperors. It afterwards belonged to the Archbishops of Mayence, who considered it their strongest fortress, and maintained a garrison in it down to the time of the Seven Years' War. It was taken by the Spaniards under Cordova (1621), by the Swedes under Gustavus Adol- phus (1631), and was twice fruitlessly besieged by Turenne (1645 and 1674). The ascent — ^ an hr.'s drive by a rough road — from Heppenheim is not very difiicnlt, and is well repaid by the beautiful view. The ground round these picturesque ruins is tastefully laid out in a garden. A post -road rims from Heppenheim through Lorsch and Biirstadt to Worms, 2| Germ. m. A little way out of Heppenheim the raifroad crosses the frontier of Darm- stadt into Baden. Hemsbach Stat. Near here is the coxmtry seat of M. Rothschild of Frank- fui-t, surmounted by 2 towers. He has large estates here. "\Veinheim Stat. {Inns : Der Karls- bcrg, near the Post ; Pfalzcr Hof, near the bridge on the Weschnitz) is an ancient town, surroimded by towers and a ditch ; it lies on the "Weschnitz, and has 4900 Inhab., whose wealth consists in the orchards and vineyards arovmd. The best wine of the Berg- Baden. ROUTE 105. — HEIDELBERG. 249 strasse is the Huoberger, which grows near Weinheim. Above the towni is the castle of Windeck^ remarkable for its cylindrical donjon tower. The raih-oad beyond Weiaheim takes a bend to the S. "W. away from the Bergsti-asse, and makes dii-ect for the Xeckar. Gross-Sachsen Stat. Beyond this Ladenburg Stat., a toMTi with walls and towers, and a handsome church (St. Gallus), on the rt. bank of the Xeckar, Avhich the Eailway here crosses by a fine bridge. Friedrichsfeld Stat — Jimction here with the Eailway from Mannheim to Heidelberg, from which places this stat. is nearly equally distant. Schwetzin- gen Gardens are 1^ m. off (p. 236) ; the ruined castle of StroJdenherg, above the town of Schriessheim, may be discemed on the L Heidelberg is hidden from view until you are just opposite to it. Heidelberg Stat., about ^ m. out- side the Klingel Thor. — Inns : Hotel Schrieder, near the railway tenninus, comfortable, good view ; — P. Karl, in the market-place, near the Castle ; — Badischer Hof ; — H- de Hollande, near the bridge ; — Adler, near the P. Karl, clean and moderate. If pressed for time, you may walk in ^ hr. from the railway by the Klingel Thor, thence along the inside of the town wall to the Castle ; retiu-ning down the footpath into the Karlsplatz, and through the town back to the Rail- way. From the great Ch. a street leads N". in 5 min. to the Bridge, which is a fine point of view. Carriages are wait- ing at the Railway, which, at the moderate rate of about 1 fl. the hour, will di-ive you to the Castle, up the Neckar, to the top of the Konigstuhl, and back, in 3 or 4 hoiurs, giving ample time to see the Castle. The beauty of the Bergstrasse has been perhaps exaggerated ; that of Heidelberg cannot be too much ex- tolled ; it is charmingly situated on the 1. bank of the Xeekar, on a narrow ledge between the river and the castle j rock. It is almost limited to a single | street, nearly o m. long, from the Rail- ; way Stat to the Heilbxonn gate. It has i [b. & R.] ; lo,Ov'0 Inhab., half Rom. Catholics. Few towns in Em-ope have experienced, to a gi-eater extent, or more frequently, the hoiTors of war, than the ill-staiTed I Heidelberg. Pre^T-Ous to the Thirty Years' War it displayed in its buildings all the splendour- arising from flovuish- ing commerce and the residence of the comt of the Electors Palatine of the Rhine. It has been 5 times bom- barded, twice laid in ashes, and thi-ice taken by assavdt and delivered over to pillage. In 1622 (the fatal period of ! the Thirty Years' War) the ferocious Tilly took the town by storm after a cruel siege and bombardment of nearly , a month, and gave it up to be sacked i for 3 days together. The gan-ison re- [ treated into the castle, headed by an I Englishman named Herbert ; but the j death of their commander, who waa I shot, compelled them to surrender in a I few days. The Imperial troops retained ; possession of the place for 1 1 years ; : after which it was retaken by the Swedes, who were hardly to be pre- I ferred as fr-iends to the Imperialists as I foes. But Heidelberg was destined to j sufier far worse evils fi'om the French. j In 1674 the Elector Charles Louis i incurred the displeasm-e of Louis XLS'. ; and a French army, imder Tiu-enne, I was in consequence let loose upon the i Palatinate, canying slaughter, fire, and i desolation before it. The Elector be- '■■ held -with disfress, from the castle in ' which he had shut himself up, the i inroads of foreign troops, and flame and I smoke rising up along the plain from i bvuning towns and villages. Unable to i oj^pose the Frenc-h with equal force at j the head of an army, but anxious to ! avenge the wrongs of his country, he resolved, in a spirit which some may deem Quixotic, others chivalrous, to endcavoiir to end the contest with his own sword. Accordingly he sent a cartel to Mai'shal Turenne, challenging him to suigle combat. The French general retiu-ned a ci^-il answer, but did not accept it. The ambition of Louis XIV. led him, on the death of the Elector, to lay claim to the Palatinate on behalf of the Duke of Orleans ; and another French army, more wicked than the first, was marched across the 250 ROUTE 105. — HEIDELBERG. UNIVERSITY, ETC. Sect. III. Ehine. Heidelberg was taken and burnt, 1688, by Mclae, a general \rhose brutality and cruelty svu'passed tbat of Tilly. But it -n-as at the following siege, imder Chamilly, in 1693, tbat it was reserved for the French to display the most merciless tyranny, and prac- tise excesses "worthy of fiends rather than men, upon the town and its inhab., paralleled only in the French Reyolu- tion, and which AviU ever render the name of Frenchman odious in the Palatinate. The castle was betrayed through the cowardice or treachery of the governor, with the garrison, and many of the townspeople who had fled to it for refuge. The cruelty of the treatment they met with was, in this instance, heightened by religious intol- erance, and no mercy was shown to the Protestants. On this occasion the castle ■was entirely ruined. The Unkersitii^ founded 1386, is one of the oldest in Germany : the number of students is about 700. It is as a school of law and medicine that Hei- delberg is most distinguished. Many of the professors at the present time are men of great reputation : Gmelin, dis- tinguished in natural history and che- mistiy ; Tiedemann, in anatomy ; Pairlus, in theology ; Mittermeyer, in criminal law. Gervinus and Schlosser reside here in retirement. As an edifice the University is not remarkable. It is a plain and not very large house in the small square (Lud- wigs Platz) near the middle of the town. The Library^ in a building by itself, consists of 120,000 volumes, be- sides MSS. A portion of the famous Palatine Library, which was carried off by the Bavarians in the Thirty Years' War, and sent to the Vatican as a present to the Pope, and as a trophy of the success of the Catholic cause, was restored to Heidelberg by Pope Pius VII. in 1815. The volumes sent back, 890 in number, relate principally to German history. It is related that Tilly, being in want of straw after taking the castle, littered his cavaby with books and MSS. from the library of the Elector, at that time one of the most valuable in Europe. The cimosi- ties of this collection as it at present stands are, — a Codex of the Greek Anthology, 11th cent. ; MSS. of Thucy- dides and Plutarch, of the 10th and 11th, and many autogi-aj)hs of remark- able persons ; Luther's MS. translation of Isaiah ; his Exhortation to Prayer against the Turks ; and a copy of the Heidelberg Catechism, annotated by him ; the Prayer-book of the Electress Elizabeth (James I.'s daughter); a Mass-book, ornamented ^vith minia- tiu-es, by John Dentzel of Ulm, 1499. The library is freely open to all persons for 2 hrs. "daily, except on Simdays. The Anatomical and Zoological Mu- seums are placed in a building in the suburb, formerly a Dominican con- vent. Several professors have good Prii-ate Collections ; the best are Creuzers' ca- binet of antiquities ; Leonhard's fossils and minerals, particularly rich in spe- cimens illustrative of the geology of this part of Germany ; and Professor Bronn's fossils of the neighboiu'hood of Heidelberg, There is also a dealer in minerals, the produce of the neighbour- ing district, at No. 211, Schiffgasse. The Museum Club (^§ 44), opposite the University, contains reading, ball, and concert rooms, well suppKed with papers and jom-nals. Neither the public nor private build- ings in the to-\vn are at all remarkable in an architectural point of view, chiefly owing to the destniction caused by repeated sieges. One house, however, survives, which in the richly decorated fa9ade, ornamented with statues, coats of arms, &c., may give some notion of former splendour ; it is the inn called Zum Ritter, from the figure of a knight on the top : it was built in 1592. It stands in the market-place, near the Church of the Holy Ghost, in which many electors and coimts palatine were bm-ied. Their fine monuments were destroyed by the French in 1793, when neither reverence for the dead nor the saxjredness of the building prevented it becoming the scene of slaughter and sacrilege. The church is divided by a partition wall between the Catholics and Protestants, and the two services are perfonned under the same roof. The resistance of the townspeople to one Baden. r.OUTE 105. HEILELBERG CASTLE. 251 of the electors, wlio "vranted to deprive the Protestants of theii- half of this church, occasioned hiin to remove the Electoral court from Heidelberg to Mannheim in 1719-20, The Ch. of St. Peter is remarkable as being the oldest in the town, and because Jerome of Prague, the com- panion of Huss, attached to its door his celebrated theses, which he maintained, at the same time expounding the Re- formed doctrines to a large multitude of hearers assembled in the adjoining churchyard. Here also is the simple tomb of Olimpia Morata, who com- bined the feminine grace and beauty of a woman with the intellect and learn- ing of a philosopher. Persecuted as a heretic in Italy, the land of her bii'th, she was forced to fly, along with her husband, a German, and at length settled at Heidelberg, where she de- livered lectm-es to a large and admiring audience. Her extraordinary acquire- ments in learning, her beauty, misfor- tunes, and early death, shed a peculiar interest upon her grave. The objects of greatest interest here are the Castle, and the \-ie%^'S of the Rhine and Neckar valley. The Castle, anciently the residence of the Electors Palatine, presenting the combined character of a palace and a fortress, is an imposing ruin. The building displays the work of various hands, the taste of different foimders, and the styles of successive centui'ies : it is highly interesting for its varied fortunes, its picturesque situation, its vastness, and the relics of architectm-al magnificence which it still displays, after having been three times bm'nt, and ha%'ing ten times experienced the hoiTors of war. Its final ruin, how- ever, did not arise from those causes ; but after the greater part of the build- ing had been restored to its former splendour in 1718-20, it was set on fire by lightning in 1764 ; and since the total conflagration which ensued, it has never been rebuilt or tenanted. It is { at present only a collection of red stone | walls, and has remained roofless for j nearly a centurj^ It is approached by j a carriage-road from behind, and by a winding foot-path on the side of the ' Xeckar. The oldest part remaining is probably that built by the Electors Rudolph and Rupert. It has aU the chai-acter of a stronghold of the middle ages, and the teeth of the portcullis still project from beneath the archway leading to it. The Friedrichsbau, named from the Elector, who built it in 1607, is distinguished by excessive richness of decoration : its fagade to the S. is ornamented with statues of ancestors of the Electoral family from Charle- mag-ne. The part of the building most deserving of admiration, for the good taste of its design and the elegance of its decorations, is that which overlooks the river, and extends along the E. side of the quadi'angle (g in the plan), built by Otto Heniy (1556), in the style called ciaque- cento, which is allied' to the Elizabethan of England. The statues of heroes from sacred and pro- fane history, which decorate the front, though of (keuper) sandstone, are by no means contemptible as works of ai-t. The English traveller will view with some interest that part of the castle called the English Pcdace (s), from its ha^-ing been biiilt for the reception of the Princess Elizabeth Stuart, daughter of James L, and grand-daughter of Mary Queen of Scots. The triiunphal arch (q), having pillars entwined with i\y-leaves, was erected by her husband, the Elector Frederick Y., afterwards King of Bohemia, to celebrate their nuptials; it led to the flower-garden which he caused to be laid out for her pleasiu'e, and it still goes by the name of Elizabethen Pforte. " "When her husband hesitated to ac- cept the crown of Bohemia, this high- hearted wife exclaimed, ' Let me rather eat dry bread at a king-'s table than feast at the board of an elector :' and it seemed as if some avenging demon hovered in the air to take her literally at her word; for she and her family lived to eat diy bread^ay, and to beg it before they ate it; but she trould be a queen." — Mrs. Jamesox, The granite piUars supporting the canopy of the well (n) in the corner of the court of the castle are said by some to have been brought fi-om Charlemagne's pa- 02 252 ROUTE 105. — HEIDELBERG CASTLE. Sect. III. lace at IngeUieim, though they are un- doubtedly derived from the quarry in the Odemvald. (See p. 246.) In a cellar under the castle (e, /) is the famous Heidelberg Tun, constructed 1751 ; it is the largest wine-cask in the world, 36 ft. long and 24 ft. high ; being capable of holding 800 hogsheads a a a. Footpath leading up to the Castle. b. Carriage-road. c. Platform or Terrace. d. Building of Frederick IV, (1607). The statues in the facade are ancestors of the reign- ing house of Bavaria, from Charlemagne and Otho of Wittelsbach. e. Cellar containing the Tun. J". Entrance to it. g. Building of Otho Henry, or Hitter Saal, be;.'un 1556, "finished 1559. This is the finest fiortion of the Castle ; it is in the best style of talian architecture, and the sculpture' with which it is decorated is of high merit. h. Octagon Tower (1525), first struck bv the lightning which finally consumed the Castle in 1704. /. Library Tower. fi. Frederick II, s Buildings (15-)9). /. Oldest part of the Castle, begun in IJ 1 by the Elector Rudolph. ! m. Rupert's Building, begun 1400. ! n. Well, under a Canopy supported by pil- lars brought from Ingelheim (of Odenwald granite). , 0. Grand Gateway (1355), with Portcullis. p. The Blown-up Tower. ! q. The Gate raised in honour of the English Princess Elizabeth, daughter of James I. ; her great-grandson was George I. r. The Garden. s. The English Building erected for the Prin- cess Elizabeth, bv her husband the Elector Frederick IV. (16o'7). t. Tower built by Elector Lewis V. 1533, Its walls are 22 ft. thick. It was destroyed by the French, 1689. Baden. ROUTE 105. HEIDELBERG. KO.;iGSTUHL. 253 or 283,200 bottles, wliicli is far less, after all, than the dimensions of one of the porter vats of a London brewer. In former days, when the tun was filled with the produce of the vintage, it was usual to dance on the platform on the top. It has, however, remained empty since 1769, more than half a centiuy. One of the towers which formed the outer defences of the Castle {der ges- prenjte Thurni) (j?), was tmdermined and blown up by the French ; but so thick were the walls, and so strongly built, that, though nearly the whole of one side was detached by the explosion, instead of ciimibling to pieces it merely slid down from its place, in one solid mass, into the ditch, where it still re- mains. Subterranean passages, for the most part still preserved and accessible, extend imder the ramparts. The Gardens (originally laid out by the engineer Solomon de Cans) and Shrubberies roxmd the castle, and the adjoining Terrace to the eastward, afford the most agreeable walks and splendid points of view it is possible to conceive over the Xeckar, issuing out of its vine-clad valley, and winding thi'ough a plain of the utmost fertility to join the Ehine, which appears here and there in distant flashes glittering in the sim. Spires and towers proclaim the existence of cities and villages almost without number, and the land- scape is boimded by the outline of the Yosges mountains. The best general View of the Castle may be obtained from the extremity" of the teiTaee raised upon arches, and pro- jecting over the Xeckar. The build- ing, however, is so grand an object, and the surrounding country so exceedingly beautiful, that the stranger will hardly be satisfied with seeing it fi'om one point. He shoidd mount the heights on the rt. bank of the Xeckar, either by a path leading from the end of the bi'idge, which is steep, or by a more gradual ascent from Xeiienheim. An agi'eeable path, easily accessible, called the Philosopher's Walk, conducts along the slope of the hill fronting the town. The hill behind it, which stands in the angle between the valley of the Rhine ind Xeckar, called the Heiligenberg, presents a more extensive prospect. On the top are ruins of a castle and chui'ch of St. Michael, which succeeded to a Eoman fort biiilt on the spot. In 1391 the wild sect called Flagellants made a pilgrimage to this holy moim- tain, clad in black, and wearing a white cross in fi'ont and behind. In the Thirty Tears' "War Tilly opened his trenches to bombard the town from this point. About 50 yards above the bridge, on the rt. bank, in a solitary inn called Hirschgasse, the students' duels are fought. 4 or 5 sometimes take place in a day ; and it is no uncommon thing for a student to have been engaged in 25 or 30, as principal, in the coiu'se of ■i or 5 years. The Konigstuhl, the highest hill in this district, lies behind the to'svn and castle. The summit may be reached in 1 or 1:^ hr.'s walk, or in a carriage, and the ^-iew is the most extensive in the neighbourhood. A lofty tower has been erected for the convenience of visitors, who often repair hither to see the Sim. rise, and if possible to extend the limits of the panorama, which in- cludes the valleys of the Rhine and Xeckar, the Odenwald, Haai'dt Moim- tains on the W., the Taunus on the X."S\''., the ridge of the Black Forest on the S., with the Castle of Eberstein- berg, near Baden, and the spke of Strasbiu-g Minster, 90 m. off. Tilly bombarded the town from this hill, after his attack fi'om the rt. bank had failed : remains of his trenches are still visible. There is a small tavern near the top, called Kohlhof, where persons anxious to see the sim rise sometimes pass the night previously. The banks "of the Xeckar above Heidelberg are verj- interesting, and afford many pleasant excursions — one of the most agi-eeable being to Xeckar- gemiind {Inn, Pfalz), 6 m. off; the excursion may be agreeably prolonged to Xeckar Steinach, on the rt. bank {Inn, Die Harfe). The com-se of the Xeckar is described in the Handbook Fopw S. Germany. (Rte. 159.) A road, overlooking the Xeckai', runs from tho castle along the shoulder of ^54 EOUTE 105. LAXGEXBEUCKEX. DURLACH. Sect. III. the hill to the Wolfs Brumien, an agi-eeable walk of 2 ni. It is a pretty retired nook, named from a spiing -which rises there. There is a small inn close to it, famed for its beer and trout (kept in gi^eat numbers, and fattened in ponds and tanks; many of them attain a lai-ge size). Here, according to tradition, the enchantress Jetta, who lived on the spot, and fii-st foretold the gTcatness of the house of the Pala- tinate, was torn in pieces by a wolf. You may retura hence to Heidelberg by the road along the margin of the river. At Handschuhsheim, about 2 m. on the road to Darmstadt, is one of the most extensive collections in Europe of Mexican Antiquities, belonging to Herr Uhde. The cherries of Dossenlieim, a ^-iHago about 2 m. beyond Handschuhsheim, on the Bergs-trasse, are sent by steam- boats to the London market. At the village of Xeuenheim, which is on the rt. bank of the Xeckar, nearly opposite to the railway station, in a house that goes by the name of Monch- hof, according to an obscure tradition, Luther was lodged when he passed through Heidelberg in 1518. Droshies may be hired for excursions in and aroxmd the town. Heidelberg is a cheap place of resi- dence, provisions being moderate and abundant. An English gentleman, who resided here in 1S34, states his expenses for the year to have been but 380/., including horses, carriage, house-rent, and servants. Eiludgen, daily, to Heilbronn in 7 hrs., to Stuttgard in 12, and to Wiirz- bui'gin 15 (Rtc. 110). Eaihrays : — to Mannheim ; trains in 35 min., stopping at Friedrichsfcld, which is the junction station of the Frankfiirt and Darmstadt Railway. The Baden Bail" ay — Heidelberg to Bale, with branches to Baden-Baden and Kehl (opposite Strasbiirg) : trains to Carlsruhe in 1-^ hrs. ; Baden 3 hi-s. ; Kehl in 5 hrs. ; to Freiburg in 7 hrs. ; Halti'ingen, 8 m. from Bale, in 9 hrs. : the 2nd-clas3 carnages are commo- dious, with stuffed seats, and quite respectable. Steamboats on the Jfeckar to Heil- bronn, in 13 or 14 hrs., descending in 7 or 8. (See Handbook S. Germany, Ete. 159.) St. Ilgen Stat. The country to the S. of Heidelberg scarcely retains any trace of the beauty of the JBergstrasse, but the line is car- ried through a flat but fertile coimtr^', with a rauge of hills to the eastward. Wiesloch Stat. rt. The large build- ing called Kisslau was formerly a Ducal Palace, but is now a State Prison. Langenbriicken Stat. — Inn, Post. Here are sulphur baths. The establish- ment is well managed ; the house large, commodious, and well furnished. There is a table-ragen hence to Wildbad in 6 hj-s. After passing (rt.) Gottesau, once a convent, now an artillery barrack, wo reach the handsome buildings which compose tho Baden. EOUTE 105. — CAELSLL'HE. 255 Carlsruhe Stat. — Inns: Post (Gold- enes Kreutz), table-d'hute 1 fl., iii- cluding wine ; Erbprinz, good; H. d'Aii- gleteiTe ; Pariser Hoi ; Hof von Hol- land. There are very good baths in the town. Carlsruhe, the capital of the Grand Dnehy of Baden, the seat of govei-nment and of the Chambers of Eepresentatives, and residence of the comt and foreign ministers, contains 22, MOO Inhab. It is a pretty but rather dull to-\vn, and one of the youngest capitals of Gennany, as it was not begim till 1715. It owes its origin, not to any fitness in the situation for trade or manufactures, but solely to the accident of the MargTave Charles of Baden build- ing a hunting-seat on the spot, which he fixed on from its seclusion and retirement, the siUToimding countiy being at the time an almost xminter- rupted forest. He called this retreat " Charles's Eest." In a few years, however, his solitude was invaded by other dwellings, and converted into a populous settlement, and the himting- lodge became the nucleus of a new city, which derived from it the name of Karls-iiihe. It is regularly built, in the form of a fan, or rather of a wheel. The main streets, like the spokes, all radiate from the palace, which termi- nates the ^-ista in eveiy street ; so that the citizens who wish " to know which way the wind blows," must necessarily look to the palace weathercock. The streets are pro\-ided Avith trottoirs, a rare convenience in Gennan towns, of which neither Vienna nor Munich can boast. From the railway you enter Carls- ruhe by the Ettlinger Gate, and pass, in ti-aversiiig the street leading to the palace, the monuments of the Grand Duke Kaii (d. 1818), a bust; Lewis (d. 1830), a statue; and that of the Margrave Charles "William, foimder of Carlsrulie, a pyramid of red sand- stone, with a neat inscription. The 2 last are in the market-place, on the W. side of which is the Bathhaus, on the E. the Protestant C'/t., and further on, in the coiu:t-yard of the palace, is the statue of the Grand Duke Karl Fre- derick (cL 1811), by Schwanthaler. The Polj-technic school was built by Hiibsch in 1836. Over the portal are statues of Keppler and Erwin von Steinbach. The Palace or Schloss presents no- thing remarkable. The view from the tiuTet which siuTuounts it, called The Bleithurm, deserves to be seen, as it will give a correct notion of the singu- lar plan on which Carlsruhe is built. The town is nearly siuTOimded by the Haardt Forest, which is intersected by roads radiating from the palace, and corresponding with the streets of the to'wn. Beyond this are seen the sil- very windings of the Pihine, and be- hind it the Yosges Moimtains, in France ; while to the S. the pic- turesc[ue outline of the Black Forest mountains, and on the X. those of the Bergstrasse, complete the panorama. The Theatre attached to the palace is open 3 times a week. The building is plain in its exterior, but is well fitted up within. The Estates or Parliament of Baden hold theii- sittings here : then- debates ai-e open to the public. One of the finest buildings is the Academie Gebiiude, erected by Hiibsch, 1843, of gi-ey sandstone, with stripes of red. It is decorated with frescoes by Schirind, and contains a collection of paintings. There are — a porti-ait of Colbeit, Ph. de Champagne ; 2 por- traits by Van der Heist ; many Dutch pictures ; and a medallion portrait of XcAvton, by de Witte. Those of the old masters are of 2nd rate value, but there are good specimens of the modem German school : Achenbach, Dietz, Schwind. There is a Museinn of Natural His- tory^ on the rt. of the palace, rich in fossil remains ; a large portion of the skeleton of a mammoth was dug up at Oos. Caiisiiihe also possesses a library of 90,000 vols, and a botanic garden. The Palace Gardens and those called Amaliensruhe, which are thrown open to the public, alford agi'eeable walks. Another pleasant short walk is to the %-iIlage of Biertheim, where there are good baths. A noble avenue of Lombardy pop- lars, the oldest and highest in Gennany, 256 LOUTE 105. — CARLSRUHE. RASTADT. Sect. III. none being under 90 ft., and some more than 120 ft. Mgh, 2 m. long, leads to- vrards Diuiach. Stiiltz, the celebrated tailor, is tbe founder of an hospital in this to^m, near the Miihlberg gate, vrhich he en- dowed with a sum of 100,000 fl. ; he was in consequence created a baron. In the shops of Franz Xoldeke and M. Bielefeld will be found a number of interesting publications, engra^-ings of all sorts, with guide-books, and views of the Rhine, and of Baden, &:c. The Club (§ U) is caUed the Mu- seum ; strangers may be admitted to it by a member. M. Xoldeke will intro- duce English strangers. All the Ger- man, many French, and a few English papers are taken in here. In the Friedhof is the grave of Jung Stilling, who died here 1817. Eihragen twice claUy^ to Stuttgart in 7^ hrs. ; to Augsburg in 25 ; to "Wild- ' bad in 6^; to Zweibriicken in 11 -5; I to Landau in 3-^ ; to Pfirzheim in 3. ■ Baibray continued. — About 2 m. from | Carlsruhc, on the rt. of the railroad, is ' Eulach, where is a modem Romanesque Ch., with 2 towers, built by ffiibsch, : 1838. The interior contains fi'escoes i by Dietrich of Stuttgart. [ ' Ettlingen Stat. Malsch Stat. Muggensturm Stat. Omnibus to Gernsbach. The Duchy of Baden is one of the most fertile districts in Gennany, and that part of it through which the railroad passes produces tobacco in largj quantities, maize, hops, hemp, and flax, besides eveiy species of grain. It is a coimtry of wine also, and oil, as the hills are clothed with ^-ineyards, and the roads are shaded by luxuriant walnut-trees, from the nuts of which an excellent and clear oil is pressed, nearly as good for culinary purposes as fine olive-oil. The agricultural pea- santry in this country commonly wear cocked-hats, even in the fields, — a sin- gular decoration for a ploughboy. Rastadt Stat. — Inns: Badischer Hof ; Goldenes Kreutz. This toMoi, of 6000 Inhab., on the Murg, is a duU place, but has been converted into a strong Fortress of the Gennan Con- federation, as a frontier defence against France. The Palace, built by the eccentric Margravine Sibylla (see below), is a large edifice of red sandstone. It was the residence of the last Margraves of Baden, but is now uninhabited, and has a deserted and decaying appearance. Its design is on the whole handsome ; and it has a further claim to attention, because 2 Congresses, important in the annals of Eiu-ope, have assembled imder its roof: one in 1714, when Marshal Yillars and Prince Eugene signed a treaty of peace in the small unpainted cabinet, its walls stained with ink-spots, still pointed out to visitors ; the second, in 1797-99, which was terminated abruptly by the mys- terious miu'der of the French envoys, Roberjot and Bonnier, as they were quitting the town, after a conference. Xo satisfactoiy light has ever been thrown upon the instigators or peii^e- trators of this foul assassination, and direct violation of the law of nations, committed, it is supposed, in the ex- pectation of finding secret and important papers on the persons of the victims. About 10 min. walk outside thcRheinau gate a monument marks the spot where the French deputies were murdered. The Picture Gallery (so called) is filled with a great deal of trash ; but in another apartment are preserved the Tiu'kish ti'ophies, horsetail stand- ards, arms, &c., gained by the Mar- gi-ave Louis in his successful cam- paigns against the Turks, together with the armour he wore, and his portrait. In fui'ther testimony of his successful valoiu-, portraits of 4 Circassian slaves are pointed out, part of the \'ictor's share of the booty, who accompanied him home. Many of these things were stolen by the revolutionary blackguards who called themselves Freischaaren, about 6000 men, consisting of mutineer soldiers, students, Poles, and Hunga- rians, who got possession of Rastadt in 1849, but surrendered the place in July of the same year. After lea-\^ng the Rastadt Stat, the railway crosses the river Murg, and a little further passes at aboiit -5 m. on the 1. the Favourite, an old-fashioned Baden. ROUTE 105. — RASTADT. THE FAVOURITE. 257 and deserted chateau of the Margraves of Baden, built by the Margravine Sibylla, ^vife of the heavy Louis of Baden, who fought against the Turks along with Prince Eugene. It is nei- ther large nor very handsome, and any splendour it may originally have pos- sessed is faded and decayed. It is chiefly interesting as illustrating the manners and tastes of fonuer days, and from the singular character of Sibylla, its founder. In her youth she was very handsome, and not a little vain of her beauty ; as a proof of which she has left in her boudoir 60 or 70 portraits of herself, in as many different cos- tumes. The old-fashioned fuiTiitm'c of the chateau, orignally tawdry rather than tastefid, is nearly worn out. There are no works of art in the house ; but one or two old cabinets filled with glass, and some singular Delft ware in the forms of birds and beasts, are kept in the lower rooms. In the garden of the chateau is an odd, many-sided build- ing, resembling a Chinese temple : this was Sibylla's Chapel. A youth of fri- voKty seems, in her case, to have ter- minated in an old age of bigotry and superstition. Before an altar within it, in a chamber designedly rendered as gloomy as a dungeon, she spent the greater part of her days and nights, during the latter years of her life, in- flicting upon herself all kinds of priva- tions and penances. Here is still pre- served the scourge of whipcord, ending in wire points (like a cat-o'-nine- tails), with which she used to discipline herself ; also, her hair shirt, and a cross of wii'c net-work, with points turned inward, which she wore next her skin, while 2 circular pieces of the same were placed for her to kneel upon. Her bed was a thin rush mat, laid on the floor ; and her only companions were 2 wooden figm-es, as large as life, of the Virgin and St. John. These were her guests, and with them she used to sit down to table ; equal portions of every meal being served to all three ; but their share was afterwards given to the poor. The Favourite is about 6 m, from Baden. Oos Stat. — A branch Baihray di- verges hence to Baden 3 m. E. (Rte. 106.) The railway then crosses the | Oos rivulet. ; Sinzheim Stat. ' Steinbach Stat., at the foot of the hill of Ybur-g, the biithplace of ErMin, the architect of Strasbiu'g Minster. Buhl Stat.— /«n, Post. Ottersweier Stat. Here the vaUey of Hub opens out on the E. ; within it lie the Hubbad and the ruined Castle of "Windeck. i Achern Stat.~At Sassbach, 2 m. 1. of I the raih'oad, stands an obelisk of granite, j erected in 1829, by the French, to mark I the spot where their great General Tu- j renne was killed by a cannon ball, while reconnoitring the Austrian armv, 27th July, 1675. This is the 4th mo- . nument which has been sot up to his memoiy, the others ha'S'ing been de- stroyed. His death aiTcsted instantly { the success of the French aims, no ge- | neral in his army being found capable ! of following up his plans. The most j contradictory and futile orders were } issued ; till the troops, discouraged by j inaction and failure, exclaimed in irony,' " Lachez la pie (the piebald charger of Turenne, upon which he had so j often led them to victory) ; elle nous conduira." The bowels of Turenne were interred in the little chapel of St. Nicholas ; his body was conveyed to ; France. [An interesting excursion may be j made by Ober- Achern, Cappel, and Ot- I tenhofen, to the ruins of the Abbey of Allerheiligen (All Saints), destroyed by fii'e 1803. (/«w, beim Forster.) Below the convent the hill has been cleft by Q, zigzag fissure for 400 ft. ; through \ this chasm a stream forces its way in 1 numerous falls.] j A little beyond this the railroad I crosses the Bench, a stream descending j from the Kniebis. j Bench en Stat. ! Appenweier Stat. A railway here I branches ofi" rt. to Kehl (Sti-asbiu-g), 1 2 Germ. m. = 9^ Eng. m. Travellers 1 boimd for Strasburg, and going after- j wards to Freibui'g or Schaffhauscn, will j find it convenient to go on to Offenburg, i and, leading their baggage there, to retiu-n thence to Strasburg. They ^ mav deposit it at M. Pfaehler's (of the 1 8 258 EOUTE 105. — OFFEXBURG. FREIBURG. Sect. III. Fortuna) new establishment, ox)posite the station, without incurring any exti'a expense. [A road goes from Appenweier over the Kniebis to Freudenstadt and Stuttgart (39 m.) by Oberkirch, 2 m. from which is the fine Gothic Ch. of Lautenbach (built 1471), Oppe- nau (Inn, Krone : not a regular post station, but will supply horses), and 3 Freudenstadt. From Appenweier an Eih.rdgen to Kippoldsau, the last place in Baden on this road, in 6 krs.] i-t, The spire of Strasburg Minster is -visible, 1, The well-preserA^cd Castle of Staufenberg, built in the 11th cent., by a Bp. of Strasburg, crowns a distant eminence. Offexburg Stat. — Here the traveller may dine verj' comfortably, as ^ hr. is allowed. The best railway dinners in Eiu'ope from the 1st Mav to the end of October, at the Stat., by Pfaehler, of the Fortuna Hotel, a verj^ good /nn, a capital cuisine, and a clever and obliging host, who imderstands English. He is also a wine-merchant, and his Zeller and IQingelberger wines, grown near this, are very good ; the price of a cask varies from 12/, to 15/. La Poste. Offenburg is a town of 3700 Inhab., situated at the entrance of the valley of the Kinzig, through which runs the direct road from Strasbiu'g to Schaff- hausen (Rte. 108). The modem Go- thic Castle of Oi^ejihiirfi, at the mouth of the Kinzig Thai (See Rte. 108), is 2 m. distant. It has been built by a Russian nobleman at a cost of 30,0o0/. Strasbiu'g is about 12 m. distant. The railway then crosses the Kinzig. Nieder-Schopfheim Stat. Friesenheim Stat. Dinglingen Stat. — Lm, Post; good and cheap, l-^ m. E. lies Lahr (Post ; Sonne), a floimshiug and industrious town, on the Schutter. W. beyond the Rhine appears the outline of the Yosges Moimtains, E. the red sand- stone cliffs of the Black Forest. On a steep conical hill rise the ruins of Scliloss Hohengeroldseck, destroyed by the French, 1697. Kippenheim Stat. The village of Kippenheim is the birthplace of Mr. (afterwards Baron) Stultz, the tailor : a neat monument of cast-iron has been set up by the road- side to his memoiy. Orschweier Stat. Beyond this the railroad crosses the Ettenbach, and here, a little to the E. of the railroad, is Ettenheim, where a party of French emigi'ants, among whom was the Due d'Enghien, were seized, 1804, by 2 columns of troops sent by Kapoleon across the Rhine, who thus committed a breach of the law of nations, and a -s-iolation of the territory of the German Confederation. The Dolce was inhumanly shot 6 days after, at Yin- cennes. Herbolzheim Stat. Kenzingen Stat. — /n/z, Lachs (Sal- mon) ; good and clean. Pdegel Stat. rt. The Kaiserstuhl, an isolated, volcanic, hilly range, fei-tile and thickly peopled, rises oiit of the plain of the Rhine . S. W. of this place, the railway bends E. to avoid it, pass- ing between it and the Black Forest range. The summits of the Bcllchcn and Blauen are conspicuous. Emmendingen Stat. 1. beyond the iovm, the Castle of ffochburg, one of the most extensive ruins in Germany, appears. Denzlingen Stat. About 3 m. IS", of Freibiu'g, on the 1., is the ruined Castle of the Covmts of Zahringen, founders of the reigning family of Baden. From the ruins a beautiful view is obtained over the sur- rounding district, called the Breisgau ; for nearly 500 years a province of Aus- tria, but ceded to Baden by the Peace of Presburg, 1805. Freiburg Stat. — {Tnns : Zahringcr Hof, very good; Deutscher Hof, good, and very civil landlord; Engel (Angel); Goldner Lowe (Golden Lion); Pfau (Peacock) ; Sauvage (Wilder Mann), very fair; Hotel Fohrenbach, close to the railway.) This, the ancient capital of the Breisgau, is situated in one of the prettiest spots on the out- skirts of the Black Forest, at the mouth of the HoUenthal (Yalley of Hell), upon the Dreisam, runlets from which are carried through all the streets. It has 15,000 Inhab. (1500 Protestants re- cently settled here). Baden. route 105. — freiburg. mixster. uxiyersity. 259 The Minster is remarkable as being almost the only large Gothic church in Germany -which is finished, and which has escaped destruction from fire or the violence of war. It is equally admired for the delicate symmetry of its proportions, and the good taste of its decorations. It owes its existence, partly to the munificence of the princes of Zahringen ; but also to the zeal and liberality of the citizens of Freiburg, who taxed themselves to the utmost, and made great sacrifices to complete it. The architect's name is unknown ; Erwin of Steinbach, who built Sti'as- burg, may have been his pupil. It was begim. under Conrad III., of Zahiingen, 1152. The nave, "W. front, tower, and lich porch below it, date from 1236-72, and are by far the finest part of the building ; the choir is infe- rior, and of a later period, 1513. The oldest parts are the transepts, together with their external tiuTCts, in the round style. The W. tower, 380 ft. high, one of the very few of the kind ever com- pleted, exhibits a skilful transition from a squai-e base into an octagon, which is surmoimted by a pyramidal spire of the most exquisite open-work tracery, all of stone, of extreme bold- ness as weU as lightness. The ascent of the tower (6 kr.) gives a good idea of the beauty of the building : — the view is better from the Schlossberg. Beneath the tower is the main en- trance into the church, by a magnificent portal, richly ornamented with sculp- tui-es. The portal leading into the choir fi'om the X. also deserves atten- tion ; the sculptm-es below the arch represent the Creation by the Deity in the form of an old man, shaping the sun, moon, and stars out of balls, and breathing life into Adam. The interior of the church contains the monument and armed effigy of Berchtold Y., last Duke of Zahringen (1228) ; a curious carved pulpit, the work of George Kempf, 1561; and a singular piece of sculpture of the Lord's Supper, consisting of 13 figui-es, by an artist named Hauser, 1561. The win- dows are filled with stained glass, of beautiful colours ; the oldest is of the 15th cent.; that of the choir, supe- I rior in point of drawing, dates only I from the beginning of the 16th. That ; in St. Alexandei-'s or the Miners' ' Chapel, is from designs . of Baldung Giiin, 1515, and very fine. Some I good modern painted glass has been , inserted. I In the chapel of St. Martin (Locher- ' ers), on the X. of the choir, a remark- able carving in wood represents the Yii'gin, sheltering beneath her mantle a ^ whole host of worshippers of all ranks, including popes, cardinals, bishops, etc., ; date 1520. Prior (Domprobst) Boek- : lin's chapel contains his monumental effigy in armour, and a Crucifix of silver, hammered and gilt, of Eastern work- I manship. j The paintiag over the high altar, set within an elegant Gothic fi-amework, is I by Hans Baldung Griin (an old painter ' of Gmiind in Swabia, d. 1552). The chief subject, in the centre when the doors are opened, is the Ascension of the Virgin and her Coronation by the First and Second Persons in the Triaity : on the shutters at either side are the 12 Apostles. The outside of these is occu- pied by 4 subjects — the Annunciation, Visitation of Elizabeth, Birth of Christ, and Flight into Egypt (perhaps the best). At the back of these paintings are others by B. Griin also, visible from the chou- aisle, the chief piece being a row of poi'traits of magisti'ates of Frei- bm-g. On the one side are St. George and St. Lawrence; on the other, St. John Baptist and St, Jerome as a cardinal. It is cmious, rather than beautiful, as a work of art. The Bishop's throne, carved in wood, 1851, deserves notice. The University Chapel in the S. aisle contains 2 good pictures by Holbein, in his early style — a Nativity, and an Adoration of the Magi ; the latter very fine, especially the figure of the Vir- gin. It was painted for the Obcmedt family, whose portraits are introduced below. The University, foimded 1456, has onlj- 228 students. It is the Eoman Catholic seminary of the Grand Duchy of Baden. Heidelberg is Protestant. Freibui-g is now the see of an arch- bishop. Near the gate leading to Frankfurt 260 ROUTE 105.— ALT-BREISACH. MINSTER. Sect. III. stands tlic Protestant Churchy an ele- | gant building in Romanesque (Byzan- ■ tine) style, witli an octagon tower. It t was skilfully, transferred, stone by stone, ' from an old convent at Thennenbach, ^ 15 m. off in the forest, to wbicb it was oiiginally attached. The Kaufhaus, S. of the cathedral, is a very qiiaint Gothic building of the 16th cent., resting on pointed arches, decorated externally with fresco por- traits gilt of the Empr. Maximilian, his son Philip I., Charles Y., and Ferdinand I. The Gothic portal under the arcade exhibits a singular an'angement. 2 Gothic Fonntoins in the sti'eets are worth notice. The town is flomishing from the wine and timber trade and the manufacture of chicory. There are delightful Walhs round the castle hill (Schlossberg), about ^ hr.'s walk from the minster. The ascent begins near the Schwaben Thor. The eye ranges over the vale of the Dreisam, bounded in the distance by the waving outline of the Black Forest Hills rising one be- hind another. The filagree work of the spire is seen from this to the gi'catest advantage. The beautiful scenery of the Hollen- thcd, on the way from Freiburg to Schaff- hausen, is described in Rte. 109. A traveller, not intending to pass through it on his way to S^-itzerland, should make an excursion from Freiburg as far as Stcig, 11 m., to ex])lore its beauties. Eihrajen daily to Schaffhausen in 1 1 hrs., and Constance in IS, through the Hollenthal ; to Alt-Breisach in 2i hrs., and thence to Colmar — stat. on the rail- way. [16 m. "W. of Freiburg, on the rt. bank of the Rhine, stands Alt-Breisach, a de- cayed town, once a fi-ontier fortress, and the key of Germany on the "NY., but with nothing to show its fonner impor- tance save the Minster of St. Stephen, on a hill. It contains some monuments and a silver shrine, which held the relics of the martyrs Gervasius and Protasius, found by St. Ambrose at Milan, and placed by him in the Ch. of St. Ambro^ gio (Handbook ]S". Italy, p. 162). Its chief ciiriosity, however, is its beautiful Altar Sateen, carved in wood. The central compartment is occupied by the Coronation of the Virgin, a very mas- terly work of art, with the date 1526, and the monogi-am of the sculptor, Hans Leifrink, or Lcychman. The l.-hand shutter bears the representation of the patron saints of the town ; the rt.-hand is occupied by St. Stephen and St. Lawrence. Below the centre the 4 Evangelists are gi'ouped, composing theii- gospels. The whole is siu-mounted by pinnacles, that in the centre reaching up to the roof A monument to the Grand Duke of Baden, Carl Frederick, has been placed on the top of the Eg- gardsberg, where once stood the Citadel.'] The Baden Bailarnj — Trains in 2 hrs. to Haltingen from Freiburg. S^chaUstadt Stat. Ki'otzingen Stat. Xear this are the ruins of Staufenburg Castle. Heitersheim Stat. Miilheim Stat. (Inn, Krone). [About 3 m. E. of the railroad are the baths of ^a- denv:eiler {Inns : Eomerbad, good ; Stadt Carlsi-uhe), The waters were known to the Romans, and the baths erected by them were discovered, 1748, in a very per- fect state of preservation. They consist of 4 large and 8 smaller baths, and include a vapoiu'-bath, anointing-room, dress- ing-room, Benazet, who formerly farmed the gam- bling-houses of Paris. He has fitted up i the interior with much taste and great ! splendour. The gaming-tables draw ■ hither much disreputable society, and I must be considered as a very serious dis- \ advantage to the place. It is chiefly [ through their baneful influence that I Baden has sadly fallen off in respecta- bility of late years. Immediately above the highest houses of the town rises das neue Schloss (new castle) — called new only by way of distinguishing it from the still older ! castle on the very summit of the hill 1 above, ia which the Duke's ancestors ' I resided during the insecui-e times of the [ middle ages, down to 1471, when the j I present new schloss was foimded. It < I was burnt and ruined in the fatal year 1689 b}- the French army that ravaged I the Palatinate, but was aftei-^vards re- stored in its present form. It is an ^ I ugly building, only remarkable for its I situation and the ciuious Dungeons be- j neath it. Under the guidance of the j casteUan, the sti-anger is conducted into I these singular vaults down a winding j stair, xmder the tower in the rt.-hand , comer of the inner court, through an ancient bath consti'ucted by the Eo- ■ mans. This entrance has been broken through in modern times ; originally ; the dungeons were only accessible \ fi'om above, by a perpendicular shaft or i chimney running through the centre ' of the buUding, and still in existence. The ^-isitor, in passing imder it, can i barely discern the daylight at the top. j According to tradition, prisoners, boimd I fast in an arm-chair and blindfolded, 1 were let down by a windlass into these j dark and mysterious vaults, excavated ! out of the solid rock on which the castle is foimded. The dimgeons were closed, not with doors of wood or ii'on, but with solid slabs of stone, turning upon i pivots, and ingeniously fitted. Several of them still remain ; they are nearly a foot thick, and weigh fi-om 1200 to 2000 lbs. In one chamber, loftier than ; the rest, called the Hack Chamber (Fol- ' ter-Kammer), the instruments of tor- 1 tm-e stood ; a row of iron rings, form- j ing part of the fearful apparatiis, still j remains in the wall. In a passage ad- ] joining there is a well or pit in the j floor, now boarded over, originally co- i vered with a trap-door. The prisoner | upon whom doom had been passed was - led into this passage, and desired to kiss an image of the Virgin placed at ' the opposite end ; but no sooner did his feet rest on the trap-door than it gave Avay beneath his weight, and pre- cipitated him to a great dei>th below, ] upon a machine composed of wheels, I armed with lancets, by which he was ; torn to pieces. This di-eadful pimish- ment was called the " Baiser de la 264 ROUTE 106. BADEX-BADEX. CHURCH. Sect. III. Vierge," and the fatal pit, with its trap- door, an oubliette ; because those who were precipitated down it were ' ' oublie';-;" never heard of more. The secret of this terrible dungeon remained im- known tmtil, as the story goes, an at- tempt to rescue a little dog, which had fallen thi-ough the planking above the pit, led to the discoveiy, at a depth of many yards, of fragments of ponderous wheels set round with rusty knives, with portions of bones, rags, and torn garments adliering to them. The last and largest of these vaults is called the Hall of Judgment. Here the judges sat upon stone benches, remains of which may still be traced round the waU. Behind the niche where the president (Blutrichter) sat is the outlet to a subteiTanean passage, by which the members of the court entered ; it is said to have communi- cated at one time with the Alte Schloss on the top of the hiU, but is now walled up. According to popular belief, these dungeons were the seat of a Secret Tri- bunal (Vehmgericht), such as that de- scribed so weU by Scott in Anne of Geierstcin, and by Gothe in Gotz of Berlichingen. It must be remembered, however, that the famous Yehme of Westphalia held its m^eetings, not in the dark, nor in dungeons, but in broad day, and in the open field. (See p. 369.) There is little doubt that these pri- sons were the place of meeting of a mysterious tribimal, over which the lord of the castle most probably presided. Similar prisons (excepting the stone doors) arc to be found in almost every well-preserved baronial fortress of the middle ages ; and, though sometimes appropriated to the trial of real offences committed within the seignem-'s juris- diction, were not unfrequently the in- struments of tp-anny, and the scenes of dark crime ; while at the best, from the secrecy of the proceedings, such a trial must have been but " wild jus- tice." The upper part of the castle is only worth notice on account of the fine view from its windows, and of the open shaft running through the building from top to bottom, within the winding staircase, which was the means of access to the dungeons below. It was di- vided by a partition, extending the whole way do\\'n. It is supposed that a prisoner, with his eyes blindfolded, was admitted by a door in the hall, opposite the principal entrance of the castle, was seated in an arm-chair, wound up to the top by a windlass through one side of the shaft, and let down by the other into the prisons of the secret tribTinal. This shaft, at least, served to convey air into those subter- ranean chambers. The small garden adjoining the castle and the ten^ace called Schneckengarten (snail garden, because snails were once bred in it for the table) are agreeable walks, com- manding fine views. The Parish Church is noticed chiefly as being the biu'ial-place of the Mar- gi'aves of Baden, and as containing several of their monuments. The most interesting are those of Margrave Louis William, who distinguished himself against the Turks, and was considered one of the first - generals of his time. He seiwed in 26 campaigns, and in his numerous battles was never vanquished ; he died 1707 : Piiace Eugene served under him. His monument is by Pi- galle (the sculptor of that of Marshal Saxe at Strasburg), and is not in good taste. Margrave Frederick, although Bishop of Uti-echt, is represented on his tomb clad in armotir, but with a mitre on his head instead of a helmet. An- other of the family, Leopold William, also fought against the infidel, in token of which his monument (one of the best in the collection) is supported by Turks, chained. He was the colleague of Stahremberg and Montecucoli, and died at Warasdin in Hungary, 1671. At the E. end of the town is a Com-ent of nuns of the Holy Sepiilchre : theii- dress is black, in sign of moiirning ; to be worn tmtil the Holy Sepulchre shall be again rescued fr'om the Infidels by the Christians. The sisters conduct a female school ; the seiwice in theii- con- vent chapel, aided by the voices of a female choir, is very impressive and pleasing. The English Chtrch Service is per- formed every Sunday in the Spito.l Baden. ROUTE 106. — EXCURSIOXS. EBERSTEIXBURG. 265 Kirche, at 11. English visitors usually subscribe tOT\-ards the stipend of the clergyman.. Dr. C. Freeh, a resident Gennan physician, understands the English lan- guage and practice. Post-Office. — Letters arrive from and are despatched to Strasbui-g twice, and to Carlsruhe once a day. Extra-post. — The post-master is en- titled to charge 15 kr. above the usual sum for every horse sent out fi-om Baden. Hired carriages, donkeys, and riding- horses are to be had in abundance dur- ing the season at all the principal inns. About 2 or 3 in the afternoon they collect at the end of the avenue leading to the Conversationshaus, to await employers. All the charges are fixed according to distance, by a printed taiiff (taxe). Excursions. — A stranger cannot be at a loss for excursions : let him follow almost any path leading out of the town, and he will find it a pleasant walk. One of the most agreeable, and usually the first taken, is that to das alte Schloss (2-^ m., an hour's ■walk), the conspicuous ruin which rises out of the woods on the summit of the hill above the town. A carriage-road, commencing behind das neue Schloss, leads up the hill to it in zigzags, but a shorter foot-path is open for pedes- trians, or those who ti-ust to mules and asses, the usual beasts of burden em- ployed in this excursion. The shade of the woods thi-ough which the path winds alleviates the fatigue of the ascent in the heat of the day, while seats, opportimely placed, wherever a projecting rock displays the view to advantage, enable the wanderer to re- cruit his strength, if weaiy. The Alte Schloss was the earliest residence of the ancestors of the reign- ing house of Baden. Its situation afforded its owners secmity from foes diu'ing many centuries of rapine and disorder. At length, in the 15th cent., when the right of private warfare was abolished, the Lords of Baden ven- tured to descend from their tower on high, and settled in the Xew Chateau, close to tlie town. This interesting and picturesque old ruin was disman- tled and reduced to its present state by the French in the devastating war of the Palatinate. The ^dew which the galleries roxmd its mouldering battle- ments afi'ord is the most pleasing and extensive ia the neighbourhood of Baden. On one side ai-e seen the dark bills of the Black Forest, luxuiiantly i clothed with the woods from wliich ' they get their name, contrasting with ■ the verdure of the valleys they enclose, ' while the town of Baden at oiu- feet, \ numberless ^allag•es, church spires, con- vents, and mills, clustering on the borders of winding streams, fill the foregi'ound : on the other side, the hills subside into the plain of the Rhine, whose course may be ti-aced in the distance, backed by the Yosges Moun- i tains in France. I A path leading from the gateway of ] the castle to the left, and winding I rotmd the shoiilder of the hill, conducts i to Ehersteinhurg (2 m.), another ruin, ; near a ^allage of the same name. i " This is an agreeable prolongation of the morning's excursion. Walks are also cut in the hill above the castle to i the curious rocks called Felsenhriicke ' on the summit, whence a good view over the level land to Strasburg may be enjoyed." — D. J. The views from the top of the other : hills around Baden, the Jagdhaus (Himting Lodge, from which the spire j of Strasburg may be seen), the Tburg, \ 6 m. (accessible for. carriages only part of the way — to the foot of the hill), I and the Mercurimherg , 5 m. (on whose i summit a tower is bmlt), partake more ! or less of the character of that from the Alte Schloss. Nevertheless, a person residing some time at Baden will find each of them a pleasant excursion, \ afibrding most excellent sitxiations for 1 a picnic party. I Lichtenthcil. An avenue of shady I oaks, commencing near the S. end of the town of Baden, leads up the valley to the Conrent of Lichtcnthal, \ 1^ m. It was richly endowed in ancient j days by the Margi-aves of Baden, but I has imdergone the fate of all such reli- [ gioTis establishments ; its revenues only ! escaped entire confiscation by the inter- ' fcrence of the Grand Dvd£e, but tho 266 ROUTE 106. — LICHTEXTHAL. NEU-EBERSTEIX, Sect. III. nimiber of its imnates is now reduced to '2>j nuns. In the older and smaller of the two churches attached to the convent are many ciu-ious monuments of the Margraves, bearing their mailed effigies, and the crest of goat's horn displayed on their helmets : one prince lies on a slab or table, clad in mail, -with bars of iron running down the sleeves, a cui-ious transition fi'om chain to plate armoiir. The Orphan house attached to the convent is one of the foundations of the charitable London tailor Stultz, who was created a nobleman by the Grand : Duke of Baden. The convent and the \illage of Ober- heitern, close to Lichtenthal, lie at the ' enti-ance of a beautiful valley, which , well deserv^es to be explored. It is • the picture of quiet seclusion, a minia- , ture of a Swiss valley. A clear rippling ; stream flows through the midst, and sets in acti^^ty several saw-mills ; rich verdant meadows and well cultivated cornfields line its banks, and extend up to the hem of the forest, which clothes all the hills around with its | dark foliage. A carriage-road leads as far as Geroldsau, a picturesque ^•illage, where visitors are invited to walk up to a waterfall called the Butte (6 m. from Baden). The Avalk is pleasant ; but as for the waterfall, it is a paltiy jet, dried up for a great part of the season, when its attractions are most needed. A pedestrian disposed to take a good long walk may go to Yburg, proceed thence with a guide over the hills to Geroldsau and the waterfall, and return to Baden by Lichtenthal, making alto- i gether 12 or 13 miles. i A traveller pressed for time may visit i the most interesting objects around Baden in 6 hrs., with a carriage and 2 horses, costing 6 florins. After seeing the Old Schloss, which will take up 3 hrs. on foot, he may diive by Lichten- thal to Neu-Eberstein ; thence descend the Mm-gthal to Gemsbach, by Ot- tenau, Eothenfels, and Kuppenheim, to the Favoiu-ite ; whence he may cither return to Baden, or proceed on to the Kastadt station (p. 256). The most pleasing excursion, however. beyond doubt, among the many which lie within the reach of the visitor at Baden, is that to the Valley of the Murg. The drive to Gemsbach and Xeu Eberstein (6 m.) and back will occupy a morning or afternoon ; but it is well worth a stranger's while to de- vote a whole day to the beauties of the Mui'gthal. An admirably constructed road leads from Lichtenthal direct to Schloss Eber- stein, a drive of 1^ hr., winding gra- dually over the ridge of steep hills, a spur or promontory shooting out from the Black Forest range, which di^ddes the valley of Baden from that of the Murg. After viewing it, the traveller may descend the valley to Gemsbach. The Castle of Neu Eberstein, an an- cestral fortalice of the Grand Ducal family, projects forward on the summit of a beetling crag, in a situation ena- bling its owners, in ancient days, to command the passage up and down the stream and valley, and to take toll from aU comers. The old feudal ruin has been built xip into a modern residence, and is inhabited during part of the year by some members of the Grand Duke's family. Strangers arc freely admitted to see it. In ±i-ont of it, on a stone pedestal, is placed a huge statue of a wild boar. (Eber.) The Gothic furniture, ancient armour, and painted glass with which it is decorated, though cm-ious, will hardly distract the stran- ger's attention from the exquisite view which he wiU gain from the platform in front. The road descends in zigzags from the castle-gate to the Mui'g, and joins a shorter footpath through the wood, at a little white chapel called Der Klingel, the resort of pilgrims at certain seasons. In the small town of Gemsbach (Inns: Stern ; Soime), 2000 Inhab., at the comer of the market-place, is a hand- some red Elizabethan house. The saw- mills, which abound here, are busily employed in cutting into planks the noble trees of the Black Forest, which, haAong been floated down the Murg, are here collected, sorted, cut, and made up into larger rafts, to find their way down the Ehine to Holland. About an hour's di-ivebevond Gems- Baden. EOUTE 107. — BADEX TO STEASBURG. 267 bach, and lower do-wTi the valley of the Miu'g, is Eothenfels, -vrith a fine hotel, pleasantly situated at -what is called the Elizabethenqiielle. ' Those -srho intend to wander fiu-ther up the valley above Eberstein will find a footpath descending from the castle straight to the village of Oberzroth, where they will find themselves again at the side of the Mxu-g. The beauties and wildness of the liver-banks in- crease as yoti ascend the stream. The villages passed in succession are Hil- ; pertsau, where the road crosses over to • the rt. bank of the Muxg ; "Weissenbach ; Langenbrand, on a lofty granite rock, a very striking object ; Gtiusbach, where the wooden houses resemble those of ; Switzerland; and Forbach {Tan, Krone), \ the last "^'illage belonging to Baden, 1 2 m. from Baden. As the road beyond | is up-hill, Forbach generally forms the | limits of a day's excursion, if the tra- ; veller intends retiu-ning the same do.y to Baden ; but for those who have time i to spare, it may be observed that the ■ vale of the Murg is only the entrance \ to other verv beautiful valleys of the ! Black Forest. I In the side valley of the Eauhmiinz- j ach, a few miles above Forbach, and in the midst of the moimtains, may be | seen a kind of tank (SchweUimg), i foiTQed by damming up the stream, j which is opened at stated periods to ■ float down vast masses of timber. The vaUey of the Miu-g loses much of its beautA' in its upper exti-emity. The frontier of Wiiitcmberg is reached at the post station Schiinmiinznach {Inns : Post and Zum "Waldhom), 2 posts from "NVildbad. See Handbook of South Germany, Route 162, where the road from Baden to "Wildbad is described. j EOIJTE 107. ' BADEN TO STEASBURG — RAILWAY. 2 Germ, m, from Appenweier Stat, to Kehl, and 6 French kilometres thence I to Strasburg= 13 Eng. m. , A branch line from the Appenweier \ Stat., on the Great Baden railwav (Ete. 106), leads W. to Kehl. Trains ; run in 25 min. , Kork Stat. 1 2 Kehl Stat.— /r.n ; Post, or TTeisses Lamm ; comfortable, and a ci^il host. Kehl, on the bank of the Ehine, at the confluence of the Kinzig and Schut- ter with the Ehine, though dignified by the name of a t0T\-n, resembles more nearly a village. It was once a strong fortress of the Geiman empire, strength- ened as a bulwark against France, and has consequently been bombarded, bm-ned, and razed more than a dozen times by French armies on crossing the Ehine. At present its fortifications are dismantled, and Germany is unpro- tected at this point. To guard against this, the German Confederation ai-e causing the towns of Gemersheim on the 1. bank of the Ehine, and Eastadt on the rt., to be converted into places of strength. As the French Custom-house miist be encountered on the opposite side of the Ehine, persons wishing merely to see Strasbm-g, and not to penetrate faither into France, had better leave their baggage at Kehl. The distance to Strasburg is nearly 4 m. From Kehl omnibuses constantly ply to Strasburg. The gate at the end of the bridge of Kehl is closed soon after simset. The Ehine opposite Sfrasburg is divided into 2 branches by an island, upon which stands the French Custom- house, and (L) a little way beyond it, sun-ounded by willows, the monu- ment erected to General Dessais, in- scribed with the words " a Dessaix, I'AiTQee dvi Ehin, 1800." The island is connected with the main land by a bridge of boats on each side. After passing the second bridge, the road passes on the S. side of the Citadel oi Strasbiu-g, considered a masterpiece of the skiU of Yauban ; and, a few hun- dred yards beyond it, reaches the gate of the city, where passports are de- manded, if the sti-anger do not intend to remain more than 12 hrs. in the town, his passport is kept for him at the guard-ho\xse till he returns, other- wise it is sent to the police. Near the Austerlitz gate, or Metzgerthor, by which the road from Kehl enters Stras- biu-g, is a milestone inscribed " Route de Paris a Ticnne !" 268 P.OUTE 10' -STRASBURG. CATHEDRAL. Sect. III. 10* STRASBURG(Genn.Sti-assbtu'g).— Inns : Yille de Paris ; a handsome house, good cuisine, best ; — Rothes Haus (Mai- son Rouge), on the Grande Place, good ; — La Fleur ; — Hotel de Metz, near the | Eailway Stat. | Strasbm-g, capital of the ancient province of Alsace (Elsass), is a strong frontier fortress, ^vith 68,000 Inhab., (30,<)00 Protestants), and a gamson of 600u men, even in time of peace, on the 111, which, on its way to join the Rhine, at the distance of about a mile, intersects the tOAvn in all directions, in canals. Strasburg is the Argentoratum of the Romans. Though it has been united to France for more than a cent, and a half, and fonns at present the chief town in the Dept. du Bas Rhin, yet it bears aU the external aspect of a German town in the appearance of its streets and houses, and in the costimie and language of its inhab. Louis XIY. got possession of Strasburg, which was a Free Imperial city of the German empire, in 1681, by an unwarrantable attack during the time of peace. The principal and most interesting building in the town is the Cathedral, or Munster, one of the noblest Gothic edifices in Eui'ope, remarkable for its Spire, the highest in the world, rising 468 ft. above the pavement; 24 ft", higher than the Great P'si-amid of Eg>7A, and 140 ft. higher' than St. Paul's. The artist who designed this admirable mastei-piece of airy open- work was Er'j:in of Steinhach : his plans are still presers'ed in the town. He died in 1318, when the work was only half finished: it was continued by his son, and after^Nards by his daughter Sabina. The remains of this family of architects are interred within the cathedral. The tower was not com- pleted till 1439, long after their deaths, and 424 years after the church was commenced, by John Hiiltz of Cologne, j who was summoned to Strasburg for this end. Had the original design been earned into execution, both the towers would have been raised to the same height. A door^'ay in the S. side * The real distance is 3f m.— 6 kilono. ; 4 ' kilom. extra are charged. I of the truncated tower leads to the summit of the spire. On the platform, about I of the way uj), is a station for the watchmen, who are set to look out for fires (§ 43). One of them will ac- company any person who has permis- sion from the Mayor to moimt the upper spire, and will rmlock the iron grate which closes the passage. There is no difficult\^ or danger in the ascent to a person of ordinary nerve or steadi- ness of head ; but the stonework of the steeple is so completely open, and the pillars which support it are so v,dde apart, and cut so thin, that they more nearly resemble a collection of bars of iron or wood ; so that at such a height one might almost fancy oneself sus- pended in a cage over the city ; and, if the foot were to slip, the body might possibly drop thi'ough the open fret- work. At the same time, the elaborate- ness of the fracery, and the sharpness of the angles and ornaments, are jn-oofs of the skill of the architect and the excellent materials he had chosen ; and it is only by a close inspection that the delicacy of the workmanship can be truly appreciated. Within a few feet of the top the winding stair terminates, under a species of car^'ed rosette. Several instances are recorded of per- sons who have either fallen or have thrown themselves ofi" the top. The "view of the multitude of rusty- coloured tiled roofs of tlie town is not veiy pleasing ; nor is it the buxl's-eye panorama of the rich district around, of the Rhine and Black Forest in Germany, and of the Yosges Mountains on the side of France, that will reward the adventurous climber ; but rather the exploit, the great elevation, and the near view which it affords of the steeple. Now, to descend to the body of the church. The exterior of the W. end deserves the most minute examination. " The gigantic mass, over the solid part of which is thrown a netting of detached arcades and pillars, which, notAvithstanding their delicacy, from the hardness and excellent preservation of the stone, aie so true and shai-p as to look like a veil of the finest cast- iron, contains a circular window 48 Baden. ROUTE 107. STRASBURG. PUBLIC BUILDIXGS. 269 ft. in diameter, and rises to tlie height of 230 ft. ; L e. higher than the towers of York Minster." — Hope's Architecture. ■' The building," says Dr. "VMieweU, " looks as though it were placed behind a rich open screen, or in a case of woven stone. The effect of the com- bination is very gorgeous, but with a sacrifice of distinctness from the mul- tiplicity' and intersections of the lines." The nave was begun in 1015, and finished in 1275. The Eomanesque i choir is part of an older building, attri- buted to the time of Charlemagne. The most remarkable things in the interior ' are the vast and beautiful "W. marigold window, 43 ft. in diameter ; the rich painted glass, executed ia the 15th , cent., filling nearly all the windows ; . the Font in the N. transept ; the Pul- ! pit of carved stone (date 1487) ; and . the famous Clock in the S. transept, i made by a li^•ing artist of Strasbm-g to replace an older one which had fallen to decay. The full mechanism is set in motion at noon only. The S. i ti-ansept is supported by a beautiful : single pillar, ornamented with statues : [ above the Gothic border, which runs ' along the wall, appears a statue of the architect of the Minster, Erwin of Steinbach, carved by himseK: he is , interred here, and in 1835 his family tombstone was discovered in the little coiu't behind the chapel of St. John. ; The Gxiild of Freertuisons has existed at Strasburg since the fovmdation of ^ the Minster, and is the parent of the ! lodges throughout Germany. ] The Frauenhaus, once a nunnery, near the Minster, has an elegant Go- thic winding-stair of stone, and some curious scvdpture. The C/i. of St. Thomas, appropriated i to the use of a Protestant congregation, j contains the Monument of Marshal Saxe, \ the masterpiece of the sculptor Pigalle, erected to his memory by Louis XV. It represents the general descending ; with a calm mien to the giave, while j France, personified in a beautiful fe- | male figure, endeavours to detain him, j and at the same time to stay the i threatening advance of Death. It is j looked upon as a very successful effort \ of the chisel : there is a tenderness of ' expression about the female figure which is truly charming. Schopflin, ( and a brother of the pastor Oberlin, are j buried in this chm-ch ; and there are ; one or two other small monuments. . Two bodies, said to be of a Count of j Xassau-Saai'werden and his daughter, I are shown, on accoiuit of the wonder- fully perfect state in Avhich flesh and clothes have been preserved after the lapse of more than a cent. This is i ti-uly a disgusting spectacle. The Academie Boyale, originally a Protestant school, foimded 1538, raised to the dignity of a imiversity in 1621, but suppressed at the Revolution, has l^roduced several remarkable scholars, as Schopflin, Oberlin, Schweighauser, kc. : here also Gbthe completed his studies, and took his degi-ee of Doctor in Laws, 1772. His residence at Stras- burg is admirably described in his auto- biogi-aphy. The Academy possesses a Museum of Xatural History, which ranks far higher than the common average of provincial collections. It is very com- plete in the yjroductions of Alsace, and especially in the fossils of the gres bi- gaiTe ; and there is a large series of the fossil plants discovered at Sulz les Bains and Miihlhausen. The botanical collection contains the section of the trunk of a silver fir, from the Hoch- wald, near Barr; its diameter was 8 ft. close to the groimd, its height 150 ft. There are many other specimens of woods preserved in such a manner as not only to interest the botanist, but to be useful to the practical man, to the carpenter and the like,by shoAving the texture and quality of the timber. The Public Library, of more than 100,000 vols., boasts of many literary cui'iosities : the principal are, the " Landsberg Missal" of Hen-ade, Ab- bess of Hohenberg, richly and co- piously decorated with illuminations and miniatm-es in the early Byzantine st^-le, executed in 1180; a missal, Avi'itten on pur[)le vellum in silver let- ters ; many early printed books ; Cicero, printed by Faust, 1465 ; a Bible, printed at Strasburg, 1466, by Egge- stein; Mentelin's Bible, printed here in tlje same year. The earliest attempt at printing was 270 ROUTE 107. — STEASBURG. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. Scct III. made at Strasburg (about 1436) by Jolin Gutenberg, who finally brought his invention to perfection at Mayence. Peter Schofter, who assisted him, and made many improvements, particularly in the casting of metallic letters, was a citizen of Strasburg. A bronze statue has been erected to him in a small place near the Cathedi'al. The 'pose and drapeiy are bad. A bronze statue of Gutenberg by David has been set up in the Place Gutenberg. Persons interested in militaiy mat- ters will be disposed to visit the Arsenal of a forti'ess so important as vStrasburg : it contains fire-arms for 155,000 men, and 952 pieces of cannon, 412 of which are required for the de- fence of the town and the citadels. There is a cannon foundry here, and one of the largest depots of artilleiy in France. By means of large sluices, constructed in the time of Louis XV. by Yaiiban, at the spot where the 111 enters the town, the country around Strasburg, between the Rhine and the lU, can be laid under water, and the city rendered unapproachable by an army, and ahnost impregnable. The Seminaire is a huge and hand- some edifice, close to the cathedral ; it was originally the bishop's palace. There is a good pro\dncial Theatre here, near the square caUed Broglie, from a governor of Alsace of that name. A very splendid Synagogue was erected, in 1834, by the Jews. It is curious to contrast the present A^-ith the former condition of that people in this city. Nowhere did they suffer more cmel or tyrannical persecutions. The street called Brand Strasse (Fire- street) was so named because, on the spot where the Prefecture now stands, a bonfire was made, in 1348, to burn the Hebrews; and 2000 of that de- voted race, accused of having poisoned the wells and foimtains, and thus caused the plague which desolated the city about this time, were consumed in the flames. From henceforth no Jew was allowed to live within the walls ; and the summons of a horn, blown every evening from the Minster toM'er, com- pelled them all to depart. , The body of General Kleber (a I native of Strasbiu'g), originally in- i teiTed in the Minster, has been re- moved to a vault in the centre of the ; Place d'Ai-mes (Paradeplatz) , and a ', monument has been erected over it. I Strasbm-g is famous for its Fates cle foies gras, made of the livers of geese, which are enlarged to an un- I natui-al size by the process of shut- 1 ting the birds up singly in coops too i narrow to allow them to tiu'n, and I stuffing them twice a day with maize. I They are generally kept in a dark i cellar, and the winter is the season for ] fattening them, coolness being essen- tial. There is such a coop in almost every house in the town. Sulphur is steeped in the water given to the birds to increase their appetite. Instances 1 are known of a goose's liver which had I attained the weight of 2 or even 3 lbs. J Hummel, No. 9, Hue des Serruriers, is said to make good pates. The gates of Strasbui-g are shut at 10 o'clock, after which neither ingress nor egress is allowed. The principal Promenade is the Ruj)rechtsau^ an extensive space laid out in walks and gardens, beyond the walls. The Strasburg and Paris Eailroad — from Strasbm-g to Paris in 1 5 hrs. when finished. Diligences to Lyons (Malle- poste, in 27 hrs.) — to Landau in 12^ hrs- (See Handbook for France.) Railroads to Basle — see Handbook FOR France — from Kehl to the Great Baden Railway — to San-ebourg. Steamers descend the Rhine from Strasburg to Mannheim and Mayence daily. (Rte. 102.) From Strasburg to Mannheim you go nearly as quickly by river as by rail (including 1 hr. to j and fi'om the stations), viz. in Q^ hrs., I but it takes 2 long days to mount up- wards from Mayence. ROUTE 108. OFFENBURG TO SGHAFFIIAUSEN AND CONSTANCE, BY THE KINZIGTHAL AND DONAUESCHINGEN. 22 Genu. m. = 102 Eng. m. to SchafF- hausen. Thence to Constance, 6^ Germ, m. = 30 Eng. m. Baden, ROUTE 108. — OFFEN BURG TO CONSTANCE. 271 Eilvcigen daily from Oftenbiirg to Schaffliausen in 15:1 hrs., and to Con- stance in 1 9:^ hrs. Offenbnrg: — Lm, Die Fortuna (Ete. 105) — is situated at the enti-anee of the valley of the Kinzig. This stream descends from the Black Forest, and joins the Ehine at Kchl. The scenery at its upper extremity is very pleasing, though inferior to that of the HoUen- thal (Rte. 1 09). 2 m. beyond OfFenburg, near the pretty ^"illage of Ortenburg, the modern Gothic Castle of the Russian Baron Berkholz is conspicuous on the 1. of the road, upon an eminence overlook- ing the mouth of the Kinzigthal. The first small town of the I'oute is Gengenbach ; it has 2000 Inhab., and an old monastery, no^v secularised, Avith a fine ch. attached to it. 2^. Bieberach. The scenery from Bieberach to Hornberg is veiy pic- tm-esque, almost romantic. The road passes tlurough Steinbach and Hass- lach {Inn and Baths : Furstenberger Hof, clean and cheap, on the 1. bank of the Kinzig, before reaching 2:^ Hausach. Inn comfortable. The ruined castle anciently belonged to a branch of the family of FUrsten- berg, M'ho ^vere seigneurs of the town. A road turning ofi:' on the 1. conducts to the baths of Eippoldsau. (Hand- book, South GERiiAXY.) Our road, continuing to the rt., passes through a country' which has c^uite a Swiss character. The broad- roofed wooden houses, the costume of the people, and, above aU, the frequent occurrence of goitre, tend to increase the resemblance. 1^ Hornberg. — Inns : Post, oflf the road, comfortable "sleeping quarters ; Bar (Bear). This little town is beautifully situated under a height, crowned by an old donjon keep, and at the foot of the main chain of the Black Forest range. The skeleton of these moun- tams is granite ; and they attain their greatcst elevation (4616 ft. above the sea) near Feldbcrg. The new line of road to Triberg avoids a wearisome ascent and uninter- esting coimtiy, being carried up the valley of the Gutach, one of the most sequestered and beautiful ia the Black Forest, and through a gorge, being partly hewn in the rock, to 1^ Triberg. The posthouse (Ba- densche Hof), the best on the line, good, rather dear, is at a little distance from the village, of 800 Inhab., which lies off the road in a very romantic si- tuation, hemmed in by high precipices, from one of which, IJm. distant from the inn, a pretty waterfall descends. Triberg is the centre of a manufacture peculiar to the Black Forest, that of wooden clocks, exported to the number, it is said, of 200,000 yearly, under the name of Dutch clocks, not only thi'oughout Eiu'ope, but even to Ame- rica and China. The sulphm'-coloiu-ed straw-hats worn by the peasantry are also made here. Beyond Triberg there is a very long but easy ascent. The Briegach, one of the head- waters of the Danube, rises within a short distance of 1^ St. Georgen. Here is a Bene- dictine convent of great antiquity, one of the focuses of the civilization of the surrounding district. It was biu-nt by a Duke of Wiirtemberg because the monks refused to adopt the Eefonna- tion, but was soon succeeded by ano- ther. Euins of the old convent exist. The new road, which is excellent, ends at Peterzels, about a mile beyond St. Georgen. An almost contiauous de- scent leads to 2 Yillingen — Inns, Post ; Blume ; neither good — a market town, 3600 Inhab., siUTOunded by bleak hOls. It has the appearance of ha^-ing been built on the site of a Eoman encamp- ment. It is a square crossed by 2 maia streets at right angles, one passing through the centre of the square, the other somewhat on one side of it. There are 4 gates, one at each end of these streets. About 4 m. E. of Yillingen, near a village called Swenningen, is the Source of the Xeckar. This is indeed a land of fountains and of watercourses ; and though the height of the mountains is not great, and they have no glaciers or pei-petual snow, yet the reservoirs of the Black Forest feed with large sup- plies the two principal rivers of Eu- rope. The flakes of Avinter snow which 272 F.OUIE 108. — DOXAUESCHINGEX. BLUMBERG. Sect. III. descend upon some of the ridges, nay, even the drops of rain falling on oppo- site sides of a house, in some situations, are destined to end their career at the two opposite extremities of a continent ; and, ^^'hile part find their way to the German Ocean, others, which reached the gTound within a few feet of them, take an opposite coTirse, and fall into the Black Sea. 2 Donaueschmgen. — Inns : Schtitze ; Falke. This town is the chief place of the small Landgi-aviate of Baar, and contains 3053 Inhab. The principal building is the Palace of the mediatised Prince of Fiirstenberg, a plain modem edifice. In a comer of the garden, and be- tween the walls of the palace and the chm-ch, is a roimd basin filled with clear sparkling water, which may be seen bubbling up from the bottom. Its waters, running out of the basin, are conducted for about 50 yds. in a subterranean channel into the Brieg- ach, which from that point receives the name of the Danube. This little basin, imder the castle window, goes by the name of the Source of the Da- nube. The real origin of that river seems to have been involved in a por- tion of the same mystery which con- ceals the source of the Kile. The claims which the basin in the comi:- yard has to be considered the source are, that the name of Danube is not given to the river until the waters of this little rill are received into it, and that the two upper streams, the Brege, whose fountain-head is at the solitary chapel of St. Martin, about 5 m. N.W. of the tillage of Furtwangen, and 25 m. fi'om Donaueschingen, and the Briegach, rising near the convent of St. George, 20 m. ofi', in spite of the previous length of their course, are both liable to be exhausted by drought, untU supplied by the rill from the castle garden of Prince Fiirstenberg. The whole coimtr^- round Donaues- chingen may be compared to a wet sponge, so abundant and numerous are the sources of water in springs, rills, ponds, and marshes, all of which go to swell the tide of the Danube. About a mile out of Donaueschingen, at the village of Hiilfingen, the road crosses the Brege, which in regard to its previ- ous length may be looked on as the main stream of the Danube ; the Briegach falls into it about a mile lower down. I Eilwdgen, in 9 hrs., dii'cct from ! Donaueschingen to Constance by Gei- singen (1:^ Germ. m.). Engen (2), where Moreau beat the Austrians, in 1800, with a loss of 7000 men on either side. The height of Hohenhowen, an extinct volcano, once more vomited forth flames ; but in spite of the tre- mendous fire of the Austrian artil- lery planted on it, it was carried bv the French. Eadolfzell(3). Constance"(2^). In the midst of the bare open coun- try, interspersed with tufts of fiu'ze traversed on the way to Schaflhausen, a mined castle is seen on a hill, with a village on the slope beneath it, at a little distance to the 1. of the road. This is Fiirstenberg, which gives its name to the piincipality, now media- tised. Riedbohringen is a small callage. 2^ Blumberg ; a desolate-looking post-house. Custom-house near. This stage is almost entirely occu- pied in the ascent and descent of a steep hill called the Eande. The view from the top, near a wooden crucifix, is charming. On the 1. are seen 3 i singular mountains, which from their i shape may at once be kno^^ii as ex- tinct volcanoes ; they are called Hohen- stoffeln, Hohenkrahe, and Hohen- twieL Further on, in the distance, a wide expanse of the Lake of Con- stance, with the towers of Constance itself, backed by the snowy mountains of Switzerland,, rises to view. Half way down the hill is a row of small houses ; these are the Douane of the Baden frontier (§ 32). Immediately beyond them the ti'aveller reaches Swiss ground, and the road passes through a j little valley, completely Swiss in aspect as well as situation, to 3 SCHAFFHAUSEN (sCC HANDBOOK FOR Switzerland). Inns : Weber's, at the Falls, nearly 2 m. from the town ; Couronne, good, and not expensive. 273 ) INDEX ACHERY. ACHERX, 257. Adenau, 178. Ahr, river, mouth of, 14';. excursion up the vaiiey. I Ahrweiler, 176. Alirbleichart -nines, 17',. Aix-la-Chapelle, 119. Congresses of, 119. Hotel de Yille, 120. Cathedral, 120. Mi- 1 neral springs and baths, 122. New Redoute, 122. Theatre, Boule-ard, 123. Alf, 189. I Aiken, 192. | Alt-Breisach, 260. I Altenahr, 177. ' Altenburg, abbey of, IJ5. Altenkirchen, 199. Alzei, 2io. Andemach, 148. Annweiler— Castle of Trifels, 242. Antwerp, 49-63. Cathedral and works of Eubens, 50. Spire, 54. Churches — of St. Jacques, 55 ; St. Paul, 55 ; St. Andrew, 56 ; Augustins, 56 ; St. Anthony, 57. Museum of pictures, 57-60. Docks, Go. Citadel and Siege, 61. Hotel de Ville and Bourse, 62. Railroad, 63. siege by the Duke of Parma, 29. * to London, 26. Apollouarisberg, 145. Ardenne, seat of King Leopold, 104. Ardem^es, the forest of, 104. Argenfels, 147. Artevelde, James and Philip van, 43. Assche, 31. Ath, 21. Audenarde, 19. Bacharach, 161. Baden, duchy of, 248, 256. Baden-Baden-, 261. Inns, 261. Beauties of 1 situation, 261. Hot springs, 262. Xew ! Schloss, Secret Tribunal and its dungeons, 263. Church, 264. Convent, 266. Cuiiver- sationshaus, 263. Physicians, Post Office, ; 265. Excursions around — Alte Schloss, 265 ; Ebersteinburg, Lichtenthal, 265 ; Gemsbach, ; 266. Murgthal, 267. i Baden sveiler, 260. Belgilm, I. Introductory information, 1-T4. General view of, 6. Passports, i. Monej-, 2. Posting, 2 ; other modes of travelling, 4. Railroads, 4. Cities of, and architecture, 8. Bensheim, 248. [b. & R.] 37. Churches, ji. , 33, 36. HStelde COCHEM. B&rgstrasse, 245-249. Bergues, 24. Bemcastel, 188. Bertrich baths, 181. Biberich, 171. Bingen Loch, 165. BixGEN, 166. St. Roch'- Chapel, 167. Bitburg, 195. Black Forest at Baden, 265. Bleichert ^vine, meaning of, 177. Bonn, 140. University, 141. Museum, 141 Poppelsdorf, 141. Kreuzberg, 142. Boppart, 158. Borcette, 123. Bouillon, 106. Braine le Comte, 106. Braubach, 157. Brauneberger wine, 188. Breisach, Alt, 260. Brohl, trass mills of, 147. Bruges, 33- Les Halles, Patutings of Hemling a Ville, 35. Academy, 36. Palais de Jus- tice, 36. Brussels, 67-81. Park, 68. King's Palace, 68. Palace of the Prince of Orange, 68. Chambers, 63. Museimi, 68. Library, 69. Hotel de Ville, 70. Broodhuis, 70. Cathe- dral of St. Gudule, 70. Notre Dame de Cha- pelle, 71. Shops, 73. Lace, 7?. Theatre, cafes, post-office, 72. Diligences, 73. Pro- menades and en^■i^ons, 73. Excursion to Waterloo, 73 ; to TerNTieren, 95. Burtscheid, 123. Calais, 14. Carlsruhe, 255. Its origin, palace, 255. Blei- thurm, 255. Theatre, other buildings, 255. Castel on the Rhine, 172, 227. Castles on the Rhine, 162. Caub, 161. Caxton, William, 127. Charlemagne's grave, 120. Charleroi, lao. Chaudfoutaine, 90. Chimes, or carillons, 9. Chokier, 84. CoBLENZ, 151-156. Fortifications of, 151. Goo-s-HEi3r, 2i5. Its histon-, objects to detain traveller: gardens, theatre, club, 2j6. Marceau, moniunent of, 150. Marksbiu-g, 157. Matexce, 172-176. Cathedral, 172 gardens, 174. Tower of Drusus 174. Museiun, 174. Printing here, 175. Gutemburgs statue, 175. ZSIechlin, 65. Meerf elder Maar, 197. :Mendig quarries, 179. Metternich, birthplace of Prince, 152. Castles, 190. Mev.se, the river, from Xamiu- to Liege, 8j. from Xamur to Dinant and Givet, 102. Moxs, 107. ]\Iontabaur, 222. ]\IosELLE river, junction with the Rhine, 150. Ice on the, 151. Descent of, 187-195. "Wines, 187. Steamers on the, 186. Moselkem, 191. Moselweiss, 19J. Mouse Tower, 165. Miinster-Maifeld. 180. My Uncle Toby,'48, 82. Nahe, river, mouth of, 1 65 . Excursion up the, 227. NAMrR, 82. Cathedral, 82. Church of St. Loup, 82. Citadel, 82. Cutleiy, 82. Nassau— Corns— Posting, 200, 201. Castle of, 205. Baths and Brunneu, 202,' 213. Keckor, source of, 271. at Heidelberg, 253. Neustadt an der Haardt, 241 . Neuwied, 149. Nicholas, St., 49. Niederselters, 208. Nieder^vald, the, 167. Nierstein vineyard, 232. NiveUes, 80. Nonnenwerth, 145. Oberlahnstein, 157. Oberstein, 22Q. Oberwesel, iKo. OdeniL-ald, excursion in the, 245 247. Offenbach, 220. Offenbiu-g, 258, 271. Oggersheim, 235. Omer, St., i6. Oppenheim, beautiful Gothic church, 232. Ostend, 31. Oudeuarde, 19. Pallien, 186. Passports— Necessity of, and mode of obtain- ing, vi. French viii. Prussian, ix. Aus- SPETER. trian, ix. Belgian, viii. English and Foreign Consuls", X. English Secretary of States, ix. Pays de Waes, 48. Pfahlgraben, 213- Pfalz, 161. Phillipsburg, 239. Pisport, 188. Poppelsdorf, 142. Priim, 194. Prussia — Piissport, ix. New custom-house system, no. Money of, no. Travelling in. III. Posting m, III. Inns, 113. Quatre Bras, 81. Ptafts on the Pvhine, 137 Eemagen, 146. Eheineck, 147. Eheinfels, 158. Pvheingau, 162. Rheiugrafenstein, 228. Rheinstein, castle of New, 163. Rhense, 157. The Rheste (B) from Nijmegen to Cologne, 114-117. (C) Cologne to Coblenz, 136. Byron"s description of, 136. a German account of, 137. Rafts on, 137. Scenery of, 139. best mode of seeing, 139. (D) Coblenz to Mayence, 156. scenery near Bingen, 166. castles, 162. wines and vineyards, 163, 168. (E) from Maj-ence to Strasburg, 231-240. scenery dull, 231. gold washed from its sands, 240. caution as to taking places in the steamers direct from London, 139. Richard Ccem--de-Lion's prison, 242. Eolandseck, 145. Kud*:shtirn, 168. Wine, 168. Saarbriicken, 229. Saarlouis, 230. Salzig, 158. Sassbach, death of Tnrenne, 257. Saventhem, Vandyck's adventure at, 94. Sayn Valley, and iron- works of, 150. Schlangenhad, 2c8. Schonberg, or Schomberg, 160. Schwalbach, 205. " The Bubbles," 205. Springs, 206. Excursions, 207. Setters, 208. Seltzer water, 208. Seraing, 84. I Seven Mountains, 144. I Siebengebirge, 142, 144. Sieg river, 140. Siegburg, 198. Sinzig, 147. Skeleton tours, xi., xii. Soignies, forest of, 74. Spa, 91. Mineral 5i»rings, 91. Reduufe, 91. Caves near, 93. Speier, 237. 276 ii^r»EX. SPIRES. Spiees, 2j7-2i9. Its eventful historj', 2?7. Atrocities of the French, 238. Cathedral, 238. Antiqmties, 239. Alt Portal, Retscher, 239. Stadtkyll, 196. Stavelot, 196. Steamboats, London to Antwerp, 26. Ostend, 31. Cologne to Coblenz and Mayence, 140. Mayence to Mannheim and Strasburg, 2j2. Steinberg vineyard and wine, 171. Stolzenfels, 156. Strasburg, 268. Monument to Dessaix, 267. The Rhine at, 267. Miinster, 268. Spire, 268. Marshal .Saxe's monument, 269. Mu- seum and library, 269. Invention of print- ing, 270. Arsenal, 270. The Jews' SjTia- gogue, 270. Pates de foies gras, 270. Ru- prechstau, 270. Stultz, Baron, hospital founded by, 256. His birthplace, 258. Termonde, 48. Tete de Flandre, 49. Tilly's bii-thplace, 81. Tirlemont, 97. Tongres, 98. Tonnerre, Mont, 230 Tournay, 19. Trarbach, 188. Trass, 147. Treves, 181. History of, 181. Antiquities, 182. Cathedral, 182. Church of om- Lady, 183. Heathen-s tower, 183. Roman batiis or ^Tiite Gate 183. Amphitheatre, 184. Black Gate, 184. Bridge, 185. Library, Codex Axn-cus, 186. Igel, 186. Trier, 181. ZWIXGEXBERG. Trifels Castle, prison of Richard Ctxur-de-Liou, 242. Trond, St., 98. Turnhoul, 64. Unkelstem, 145. Verviers, 93. Vesdre, valley of the, 89, 94. Vilvorde, 67. Vimeberg Castle, 178. Walloon language, 7. Waterloo, 74-80. Plan of, 76. Weilburg, 221. Weinheim, 248. Wetzlar, 221. " Sorrows of Werther, 221." WiESBABEX, 211. Inns and baths, 211. Kur- saal, 211. Kochbrunnen, 212. Temperature of the springs, 212. Roman remains, 21?. Pfahlgraben, a wall extendmg from the Rhine to the Danube, 213. Museum, Thea- tre, 214. Platte, 215. Biberich, 215. Wines and vineyards of the Rhine, 163. WoKMS, 233. Present state and former great- ness : seat of imperial Diets, 233. Cathedral, 233. Ypres, 24. Zahringen, 259. Zeltingen, 188. Ziilpich, 125, 194. Zweibmcken (Deux Pouts), 24?. Zwingenberg, 245. PRINTED BY W. CLOWES AND SOXS, STAINfFORD STREET. :^''^^^J^_ MURRAY^S HAND-BOOK ADYEETISER. 1852. PP.INTED FOR THE CONVENIENCE OF THOSE PARTIES WHO ARE DESIROUS OF COMMUNICATING INFORMATION TO TRAVELLERS ON THE CONTINENT. Failished Annually. 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MURRAY'S HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. MESSRS. J. & E. MTRACKEN, 7, OLD JEWRY, LONDON, AGENTS, BY APPOINTMENT, TO THE ROYAL ACADEMY, And Agents generally for the reception and Shipment of WorI:s of Art, Baggage, (Lc. PROM AKD TO ALL PARTS OP THE "WORLD, Retckx their sincere acknowledgments to | British Artists resident abroad, having the NoMlity and Gentry for the liberal | occasion to send home their Works for patronage hitherto confen-ed on them. They . Exhibition, or to be passed by the Academy, hope, by the moderation of their charges, and , Trill find it advantageous to address them to their unremittingcare in passing through the ' the care of 3Iessrs. J. and R. M<^Crackex, CusTOM-HousE Property confided to them, to j whose appointment enables them to offer merit a continuance of the favours they have ] every facility. heretofore enjoyed. Their establishment i Parties favouring J. & R. M<^C. with Con- comprises DRY AND SPACIOUS WARE- j signments, are requested to be particular in HOUSES, where Works of Art and all j having the Bills of Lading sent to them descriptions of Property can be kept during 1 DIRECT by post, and also to forward their the Owner's absence, at most moderate rates j Keys with the Packages, as all Goods MUST of rent. BE EXAMINED immediately on arrival. J.& R. M<^C. undertake to execute Commis- j J. & R. Mi^C. keep Lachrymse Christi and sions, for the pui-chase of Pictures, Statuary j Marsala Wines of first quality, also Port in Marble and Alabaster, Bronzes, &c., being and Sherry; and are general Importers of in direct correspondence with Artists, Agents, French and other Foreign AVines. and Bankers throughout the Continent. Packages sent, by Steamers or otherwise, to Southampton and Liverpool, also attended to. THEIR PRINCIPAL CORRESPONDENTS ARE AT f, AT AT . r Messrs. Chartiee, Mory, & Vogue. i^ALAito ^ Messrs. Isaac Vital & fils. BOULOGNE S. M.... Messrs. Chartier, Moey, & Vogue. Mr. H. Sire. TMr. M. Chexue, Packer, Rue Croix Petits Champs, No. 24. PARIS -< Mons. Havet, Roulagier, 10, Rue Grange Bateliere. ( „ Petit Fils aine, id., 2.3, Rue de la Concorde. HAVRE Mr. A. Chaumoxt, Mr. Thojias Taylor, Messrs. P. Devot &Ca, M » T>5jT7TT TV- S Messrs. Horace Bouchet & Co. MAKbi:.lLLEfe j^ Messrs. Buzutil, Richard & Co. Mons. Philigeet. BAGNERES DE BI- ) GORRE, (Hautes [-Mr. Auie'Geruzet, Marble Works. Pyrenees) j BORDEAUX Mr. Aime'Geeuzet, 8, Place des Quinconces. GIBRALTAR Messrs. Archbold, Johnston & Powers. Messrs. Turner & Co. LISBON Mr. Arthur Van Zellee, Benin. & Orient. St. Nav. Co.'s Offices. SEVILLE Julian B. Williams, Brit. Vice-Cons. Don Juan Ant". Bailly NICE Messrs. A. Lacroix & Co., British Consulate. rpvn A ^ Messrs. Gibes & Co. ; Mr. A. G. Barchi. vTii.:sUA -^ ^j^, gomersall, British Vice-Consul. MILAN Messrs. Buffet & Beruto, Piazzale di S. Sepolcro, No. 3176. CARRARA Mr. Vincenzo Ln-Y, Sculptor. ■ Messrs. W. Macbean & Co. Messrs. Thomas Pate & Sons. Messrs. Henderson Brothers. Messrs. Maquay, Pakenham, & Smyth. Messrs. Giac". Micali & Fig". Sculptors in Alabaster and Marble. Mr.M.RiSTORi. Mr. Joseph Guano. Mr. Henry Du^'N. Messrs. Della Valle Brothers, Artists in Scagliola. [ ^Messrs. G'". Galliani & Co. py5j . i Mr. Ferd. Peverada. ^^°^ \ Messrs. Huguet & Van Lint, Sculptors in Alabaster and Marble. l' Messrs. Emji'^ Fenzi & Co. Messrs. Plowden & French. Messrs. I Maquay & Pakenham. Mr. Gaet°. Bianchini, Mosaic Worker, T?T m>v\:m:' j opposite the Cappella de' Medici. Mr. Antonio di Luigi Pia- JrLUKi^NCi:. < cENTi. Mr. J. TouGH. Messrs. F"i. Pacetti, Picture-frame I Makers, Via del Palagio. Messrs. Nesti Ciabdi & Co. Mr. F. l^ Leopoldo Pisani, Sculptor, No 1, sul Prato. VOLTERRA Sig. Otto. Callaj, and Sig. G^JS^ Cheeici, LEGHORN MURRAY'S HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. MESSRS. J. X R. MCCRACKEN'S CORRESPONDENTS— con^mwci. BOLOGNA Mr. Flavio Peeotti, British Yice-Consul. ANCONA Messrs. Moore Meeellet & Co. / Messrs. Fkeeboex & Co. Messrs. Toklonia & Co. Messrs. _^„_ J Macbean&Co. Mr. Carlo Teebbi. Messrs. Plowdes, Chol- i^'^^^i^ j jielev, &Co. Messrs. PAKEiTHAii, Hooker, & Co. Mr. Luigi i Branchixi, at the English College. CIVITA VECCHIA. Mr. J. T. Lowe, Junr., British Yice-Consul. Mr. T. Arata. XT 4 PT 17 ^ I Messrs. Igguldex & Co. Messrs. W. J. Tubxer & Co. Messrs. ^^^^^* t CoDiixG, Wood, & Co. PALERMO Messrs. Browx, Fraxck, & Co. MESSINA Messrs. Cailler & Co. i3Ir. Emaxtjel Zajdiit. Mr. J. Aspixall. Rosixa Dimech & Brothers, No. 69, Strada Teatro, Valletta, Sculptors in Malta Stone. Mr. P. P. Decesabe, 53, Strada Reale, Sculptor in Malta Stone. Mr. Fortuxato Testa, 92, Strada S^^ Lucia. Messrs. Jost^. Darmaxix & Soxs, 45, Strada Levante, Mosaic Workers. CORFU Mr. J. W. Taylor. ALEXANDRIA Messrs. Briggs & Co. CONSTANTINOPLE Messrs. C. Haxsox & Co., and Mr. Black. SMYRNA Messrs. Haxsox & Co. BEYROUT Mr. Hexry Heald, ATHENS, PIR.'EUS Mr. J. J. Buchereb. -irwrn-p i Messrs. Freres Schielix. V Ji-iNiCii, I Messrs. S. & A. Blumexthal & Co. Mr. Johx Habeis. TRIESTE Messrs. Geokge Moobe & Co. OSTEND Mr. F. A. Belleeoche. Messrs. Bach & Co. Mr. St. Ajioub. GHENT Mr, J. De Buysee, Dealer in Antiquities, Marche au Beurre, 21. BRUSSELS TyjT,-.,TT;,T,p r Messrs. F. Mack & Co., Kipdorp. 174S. AJ\ i vv tL.tif I Mr.P. VAX Zeebeoeck, Picture Dealer, &c.. Rue desRecoUets, 2076. i Messrs. Prestox & Co. Messrs. S. A. Levixo & Co. Messrs. L. KOili^KUAiU J Mayer&Co. Messrs. C.HEiEyLVxx& Co. Messrs. Bouthy& Co. /^e\r nr- t^tt:' f Mr. J. M. Farixa, vis-k-vis la Place Juliers. COLOGNE I Messrs. Gn-e. Tilmes & Co. T.r \ vrAjPT? J Mr. G. L. Kayseb, Expediteur. irlAl li..N(^±. I Tyjj._ Joseph Thuquet. Mr. W. Kxl'ssmax, Cabinet Maker. ( Mr. P. A. Tacchi's Successors, Glass Manufacturers, Zeil D, 17. or. *xix.'T7r»T3T^ r, >r Madame Veuve J. H. Stiebel, Zeil D, 30. iKANKt OKi U. Ji. , jigssi-s gixG Brothers, Zeil D, 31. Mr. F. Bohlee, Zeil. i Mr. G. A. ZiPF, Ross Markt. MANNHEIM Mr. Dixkelspeil. Messrs. Eyssex & Claus. r Mr. Hy. Wijdier, Printseller, Promenade St., No. 12. Messrs. MUNICH -< May & Widjiayer, Printsellers. Mr. F. Steigebwald, Glass ( Manufacturer. Messrs. L. Negrioli & Co. T-Tc-oTMn T^xT J Mr. E. STEIGER^vALD, Glass Manufacturer. KibblNGL.N I Messrs. J. Bergmaxx & Co. RATISBON Mr. Acguste Koch, Dealer in Antiquities. NUREMBERG Mr. Paolo Galimberti, at the Red Horse, Dealer in Antiquities. BASLE Messrs Jeax Preiswerk & Fils. BERNE Mr. Auguste Buesche. Mr. Albert Teumpy. „T^^,^ . ( Messrs. Ritzchel, Pere & Fils, Grand Quai. U±.iNi^v A I Messrs. Aug. & Victor Sxell. LAUSANNE Mr.L. Loxgchamps. INTERLACKEN Mr. J. Wyder. GRINDELWALD ... Mr. S. Rothacheb, Fils. HAMBURG Messrs. Schaab & Clauss. Zahx & Vivifi. T>v \ r T-T- f Mr. W. Hofmax-n, Glass Manufacturer, Blauern Stern. i-KAUUi:. -; jj^ ^ y Lebeda, Gun Maker, &c. t- K-DT ajiKT\ J Mr. Thomas Wolf, Glass Manufacturer. CAKLbliAU I jjj. ^^^^ KxoLL, au Lion Blanc. VIENNA Mr. W. Hofmaxx, Glass Manufacturer, am Lugeck, No. 768. SALSBURG Mr. Alois Duregger. ( Messrs. Gebrudek Rocca, Printsellers, Unter den Linden. BERLIN -< Messrs. Phalaxd & Dietrich, Carriers. ( Mr. Liox M. Cohx, Coram" Expediteur. TMJir<=r.Trv S Messrs. H. W. Bassenge & Co. Messrs. G. F. Thode Sohne. i>Kt.&ui:.iN (Madame Helexa Wolfsoiix, Schbssergasse, No. 5. NEW YORK Me8srs.WiLBUB& Scott. MURRAY'S HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. MUNICH. FRANCIS STEIGERWALD, -MANUFACTURKR OF ALL KINDS OF CUT, OR ORNAMENTED WITH GILDING, PAINTING, OR ENGRAVING, Begs respectfully to inform the Public that his large Stock at MUNICH, the acknowledged seat of the Fine Arts in Germany, is, as it has been for many years, carefully supplied with the NEWEST and CHOICEST PRODUCE of his FACTORY. Francis Steigerwald has also an Establishment at Kissingen during the Season. Requesting his Customers and Correspondents in ENGLAND to contii^ue to this Establishment the favour and confidence they have been pleased to bestow on his former one at FRANK- FORT ON THE MAINE, he begs to state that Purchases or Orders will be transmitted on the shortest notice, and without any further trouble, through the medium of his Agents, Messrs. J. osite Place, or Market" on their address cards or labels, speculating witli respect to the proper name " Julich" on the carelessness or forgetfulness of the consumer. I therefore beg to inform all strangers visiting Cologne that my establishment, which has existed since 1709, is exactly opposite the .Julich's Place, forming the comer of the two streets, Unter Goldschmidt and Oben Marspforten, No. 23, and that it may be the more easily recognised, I have put up the anns of England, Russia, &c. &c., in the front of my house. By calling the attention of the public to this notice, I hope to check that system of imposition which has been so long practised tov/ards foreigners by coachmen, valets de place, and others who receive bribes from the vendors of the many spurious compounds sold under my name. A new proof of the excellence of my manufacture has been put beyond all doubt by the fact of the Jury of the Great Exhibition in London having awarded me the Prize Medal —See the Official Statement in No. 20,9.34 page 6 of the " Times" of this month. COLOGNE, October, 1851. j^ ^^ FARINA, Opposite tlie Julich's Place. *J* My Custom-house Agents in London are Messrs. J. & R. M'Cracken, 7, Old Jeivry ; and viy Agent for Great Britain is Mr. Wm. Langenbeck, 15, Maddox Street^ Regent Street, and 9, Lime Street, City. MURRAY'S HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. 13 UNION BANK OF LONDON SIR PETER LAURIE, Aldeemax, Governor. WILLIAM MOUNTFORD NURSE, Esq., Deputy Governor. Rt. Hox. the Lord Mayor. J. Barnes, Esq. J. Farquhar, Esq. Leo Schuster, Esq. P. NoRTHALL Laurie, Esq. C. Lyall, Esq. J. Chapmax, Esq. H. HuLBERT, Esq. A. Boyd, Esq. Lt.-Col. Mathesok, M.P. J. Scott, Esq. William Wilson Scrimgeour, General Manager. Walter Laurie, Secretary. CIRCULAR NOTES. CIRCULAR NOTES of the value of £10 and upwards, /ree of expense, and LETTERS OF CREDIT payable at the places indicated below may be obtained at the Head Office, 2, Princes Street, Mansion House; Argyle Place; and 4, Pall Mall East. Abbeville Canada Gottenbourg j Middlebourg San Francisco Aix-en-Provence Canton Gottingen Milan San Sebastian Aix-la-Chapelle Cape Town Graefenburg Modena Santa Cruz Alexandria Carlsbad Granville Montpellier Schwalback Aleppo Carlsruhe Grasse Montreal Seville Algiers Cassel Gratz Moreton Bay Shauflfhausen Alicante Catania Grenada Moscow Siena Almeria Cephalouia Grenoble Moulins Singapore Amiens Cette Halifax Moulmein Smyrna Amsterdam Ceylon Hamburg Munich Spa Ancona Chalon Hanover Munster Stettin Angers Chambery Havre Murcia St. Galle Antwerp Chaux de fonds Hague Nancy St. Malo Archangel Cherbourg Heidelburg Nantes St. Omer Athens Christiana Hermanstadt Naples St. Petersburg Augsbourg Christiansand Homburg es Neufchatel St. Quentin Avignon Civita Yecchia monts New Orleans St. Thomas Avranches Clermont Fer- Hong Kong New York Stockholm Baden-Baden rand Innspruck Nice Strasbourg Bagdad Coblenz Interlaken Nismes Stuttgardt Bagneres dc Big Cobourg Jaflfa Nurembourg Sydney Bahia Coire Jerusalem Odessa Tarbes Barcelona Cologne Kissingen Oleron Teneriflfe Basle Constance Kbnigsberg Oporto Toplitz Bayonne Constantinople Lausanne Orleans Toronto Beirout Copenhagen Leghorn Ostend Toulon Bergen Cordova Leipsic Palemio Toulouse Berlin Corfu Liege Paris Tours Berne Coranna Lille Parma Treves Besaufon Creuznach Lisbon Patras Trieste Bilbao Damascus Locle Pau Turin Blois Dantzic L'Orient Perpignan Utrecht Bologna Darmstadt Lubeck Pesth Valenciennes Bombay Delhi Lucca Pisa Valencia Bonn Dieppe Lucerne Port St. Mary Venice Bordeaux Dijon Lyons Prague Verona Botzen Dresden Madeira Presbourg Vevey Boulogne Drontheim Madras Quebec Vienna Bremen Dunkirk Madrid Rastadt Vigo Breslau Dusseldort Magdebourg Ratisbonne Vitoria Bruges Elberfeld Malaga Rennes Warsaw Briinn Elsinore Malta Rheims Weimar Brunswick Emms Mannheim Riga Wiesbaden Brussels Florence Mantua Rio de Janeiro Wildbad Burgos Foix Marienbad Rome Worms Cadiz Francfort Marseilles Rostock Wurzbourg Caen Geneva Mauritius Rotterdam Yverdon Cairo Genoa Mayence Rouen Zante Calais Ghent Melbounie Salamanca Zaragosa Calcutta Gibraltar Messina Salzburg Zurich. Cambrai Gotha 14 MURRAY'S HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. LUCERNE. Board and Lodging Six Francs a Day, Children Half-price, at PHILIP PENSION SEGESSEE'S AU TIVOLL Commanding beautiful views of the Lake and Mont Pilate, situated about half-a-mile from Lucerne. Any enquiries will be readily answered by Higford Burr, Esq., Alder- maston, Newbury, who can strongly recom- mend the Establishment. THE SCOTTISH TOURIST FOR 1852. (19th Edition.) Kow ready, One Volume, 12mo, 8s. 6d., OLIVER & BOYD'S SCOTTISH TOUmST for 1852. Being a Guide to the Cities, Towxs, An- tiquities, Seats of the Nobility, and Picturesque Lake and Mouxtaix Scexery of Scotland; with numerous Illustrative Engravings and carefully prepared Travel- { ling Maps. ] This well-known M-ork, now the property \ of Messrs. Oliver & Botd, has been almos't i entirely rewritten, and gives full and accu- i rate information on every thing that can prove interesting or amusing to the Tourist, j The separate Tours are minutely described, and enlivened with a pleasing variety of ! Anecdote and Historical Reminiscence. [ Oliver & Boyd, Edinburgh. Simpkix, Marshall, & Co., London. FOUEIGN BOOKS.: GERMAN, FRENCH, ITALIAN, SPANISH, SWEDISH, DANISH, ANT) DUTCH GRAM MARS, DICTIONARIES, DIALOGUES, and a choice stock of the LITERATURE of the CONTINENT is always to be found at FRANZ THIMM'S, 88, NEW BOND STREET, LONDON. Just published, fcap., os. cloth. HELEN OF INNSPRTICK OR, THE MAID OF TYROL. a POEM, IN SIX CANTOS, Illustrative of the War of Liberation in 1809 embracing the exploits and execution of Hofer. " The story of the Tyrolese struggle for freedom is well narrated, and many of the passages have true poetic power and beauty." — Literary Gazette. " A composition singularly free from faults. A volume of more than respectable poetry." — Critic. London: Hamilton, Adams & Co.; Bristol: H. Oldlaxd. THE LONDON AND WESTMINSTER BANK Issues Circular Notes for £10 each, FOR THE USE OF TRAVELLERS AND RESIDENTS ON THE CONTINENT. They are payable at every important place in Europe, and enable a Traveller to vary kis route without inconvenience. No expense is incurred, and when cashed, no charge is made for commission. They may be obtained at the head office of the London and West- minster Bank, in Lothbury ; or of its branches, viz. : — 1, St. James's-square, 214, High Holborn. 3, Wellinston-street, Boroi'igh, 87, High-street, Whitechapel, and 4, Stratford- place, Oxford-street. J. W. GILBART, General Manager. BEST FAMILY WEEKLY NEWSPAPER. BELL'S WEEKLY MESSENGER Has been established for more than half a century, and is acknowledged to be the best Weekly Newspaper now publi.shed. Its circulation greatly exceeds that of any other paper of its class, a fact resulting fi-om the high reputation it has obtained for the extent, variety, and correctness of its infoi-mation on all subjects embraced by a general news- paper, as well as by its rigid exclusion of everything, either in the shape of advertisements or otherwise, offensive to morals and good taste. In Politics it is Conservative, in Religion thoroughly Protestant ; while its Commercial Intelligence commends it to the Merchant and the Man of Business. To English Families residing on the Continent it will prove peculiarly acceptable, as it contains a full and authentic record of all domestic affairs of general interest, and a carefully prepared Summary of Foreign News. It can be for- warded to any part of the Continent. Price 6d., or 58c. weekly, and 6s. 6d., or 7f. 80c. per quarter, paid in advance. Orders should be addressed to the Publisher, at the Office 2, New Bridge-street, Blackfriars, London or to any Newsvendor. MURRAY'S HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. 15 FRANKFORT 0. M. MESSRS. LOHR k ALTEN PBOPEIETOES OF THE ROMAN EMPEROR HOTEL, Beg to recommend their House to English Travellers. This large and well situated Establishment is conducted under the immediate superintendence of the Proprietors, and newly furnished with every comfort. The " Roman Emperor " is often honoured by Royal Families and other high personages. The following have lately honoured this Hotel — H.il. THE KING AND QUEEN OF TVURTEMBERG. H.M. THE QUEEN OF HOLLAND. H.R.H. THE CROVrN PRINCE AND PRINCESS OLGA OF WURTEMBERG. H.I.H. THE ARCHIDUKE OF AUSTRIA. &c. &c. &c. Table d'hote at 1, 1th. 30c., Wine included. Breakfast, 36c. „ „ 4^, 1th. 4oc., without Wine. Tea, 42c. Bed Rooms, from 1th. to 3th. BRUSSELS. CARRIAGES AND HORSES. T. SUFFELL Respectfully infonns British and American Travellers they can always obtain a choice of EXCELLENT VEHICLES, GOOD SADDLE HORSES, TO COXYEY PAKTIE5 TO AND FROM WATERLOO, At very reasonable prices. GENOA. HOTEL CROCE DI MALTA, MRS. y. PERNETTI. For Carriages by the dav, half day, or hour, apply to T. SUFFELL, 12. Rue De Ravensteiu, Montagne de la Cour. on the right hand side descending from the Place Royale. Carriages of every description for town use. A Pair of Horse Carriages for Waterloo. 20 fr. ; Gig or Cab, 15 fr.; and a Saddle Horse, 12 fr. This Hotel, which is the first in Genoa, is situated in a most convenient ! position for visitors. I It has been lately re-embellished and refurnished, and is conducted on a most liberal scale, under the personal active superintendence of the Proprietor, who takes this opportunity to assure all those who may honour her with theii- patronage, that nothing will be left undone to ensure their comfort and convenience, as well as to maintain the reputation of her Establishment. 16 MURRAY'S HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER." The Official Descriptive and Illustrated Catalogue of the Great Exhibition of the Industry of all Nations. SUPPLEMENTAL VOLUME OF ILLUSTRATIONS of O those Articles for which PRIZE AND COUNCIL MEDALS have been awarded by the Jurors of the Great Exhibition of the Industry of all Nations. Messrs. SPICER BROTHERS and WM. CLOWES & SONS are preparing for publi- cation a Volume of Illustrations, in the highest style of Art, as a Supplemental Volume to the Illustrated Catalogue, which will embrace a large portion of those objects which are not included in the three volumes already published. This Volume will also include the Report of the Commissioners for the Exhibition, 1851, containing a mass of valuable information connected with the Great Exhibition, Statistical Tables of Number of Visitors, Amounts taken, &c. THE COMPLETE OFFICIAL DESCRIPTIVE AND ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE OF THE GREAT EXHIBITION OF THE WORKS OF INDUSTRY OF ALL NATIONS, 1851. In three handsome Volumes, cloth, lettered, gilt edges, price Three Guineas. Wholemorocco £5 5 I Whole Calf £5 Half do 4 15 I Half do 4 10 This work forms a complete Scientific, Historical, and Illustrated Record of the Great Exhibition of 1851. The numerous Illustrations consist of the most interesting and important objects of Art and Industry exhibited ; and original Notes and Papers have been contributed by the following gentlemen. Henry Cole, C.B., F.R.S. James Glaisher, F.R.S. J. E. Gray, F.R.S. Robert Hunt, Keeper of Mining Records. Robert Ellis, F.L.S. S. Clegg, Jun., F.R.S. W. De La Rue, F.R.S. J. Spurgin, M.D. John Wilson, F.R S.E. Henry Dibdin. W. C. Aitkin. H. Maudslay, C.E. Robert Hendbie, Jun. J. A. Nicholay. Professor Owen, F.R.S. Baron Justus Liebig, F.R.S. Professor Lindley, F.R.S. Professor Forbes Royle, F.R.S. Professor Bell, F.R.S., Sec. R.S. Professor E. Forbes, F.R.S. Professor Ansted, F.R.S. Professor Hosking. Professor A. De Morgan, M.A. Philip Pusey, M.P., F.R.S. Rev. J. Barlow, F.R.S. Rev. J. Booth, F.R.S. Captain L. L. Boscawen Ibbetson. F.R.S. Dr. Lyon Playfair, C.B., F.R.S. M. DiGBY Wyatt, C.E., F.R.I.B.A. " The work is without precedent in the annals of literature." — Atheyiceum. " The sole industrial source for future investigations connected with the yet undeve- loped resources of the 19th century.'' — Daily Neics. " A complete literary type of the original to which it refers."— T/wes. EXHIBITION 1851.-JURY REPORTS. rPHE REPORTS BY THE JURIES on the Subjects in the J- 30 Classes into which the Exhibition was divided, are issued in two editions, one in large type, forming 2 vols., super-royal 8vo, of about 1000 pages each, price Two Guineas; and the other in small type, double columns, forming 1 vol., super royal 8vo, of about 1000 pages, price One Guinea. Both editions will be unifonn in size with the Official De- scriptive AND Illustrated Catalogue. POPULAR RECORD OF THE GREAT EXHIBITION.— -L HUNT'S HANDBOOK, being an Explanatory Guide to the Great Exhibition of the Industry of All Nations, 1851. In 2 vols., price 6s. By Robert Hunt, Professor of Mechanical Science, Government School of Mines. nPHE OFFICIAL SMALL CATALOGUE, Finally Corrected JL and Improved Edition, with a full Alphabetical and Classified Index of Contributors and of Articles exhibited. Lists of Commissioners and others engaged in the Exhibition «S;c., in one volume, with the British and Foreign Priced Lists, price 7s. 6d. SPICER BROTHERS, Wholesale Stationers. WM. CLOWES and SONS, Printers. Official Catalogue Office, 2, Tudor-street, New Bridge-street Blackfriars, and of all Boooksellers. MURRAY'S HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. 17 To all Persons of Taste intending to Visit London. M ECHI, Of Xo. 4, LEADEXHALL STREET, near Gracechurch Street, LOXDOX, Has long been renowned throughout the civilised world for RAZORS, STROPS, CUTLERY IN GENERAL, NEEDLES, DRESSING-CASES, WORK-BOXES, TEA-TRAYS, AND PAPIER MACHE IN ALL ITS VARIOUS APPLICATIONS, AS WELL AS EVEBY REQUISITE FOR THE TOILET AXD WORK-TABLE. His well-known Emporium has been re-decorated in a style suitable to the improved spirit of the age, and has received an accession of Stock calculated to meet the extraordinary demand which he anticipates. Among the sights of London, none are more interesting and extraordinary than its shops, and for a combination of taste and elegance, there is not one more conspicuous than Mechi's. Those who wish to see the Manufactures of England displayed in the most attractive manner must not omit to visit Mechi's, where they will find an abundance of objects adapted to the requirements of every class of purchasers. Catalogues will be furnished gratis, or sent to any address in England, post free. 4, LEADENHALL STREET, NEAR THE INDIA HOUSE. NICE-MARITIME. HOTEL VICTORIA. BY J. ZICHITELLI, CROIX DE MARBRE, JARDIN DES PLANTES. This Hotel is delightfully situated, facing the Sea, and possesses a southern aspect. The accommodation is of a superior quality, and adapted for the Nobility, Families, or for Single Travellers. ENGLISH COOKERY. Now ready, with 100 Illustrative Woodcuts. Post 8vo. 65. Strongly bound. MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Founded upon principles of Economy and Practical Knowledge, and adapted for Private Families. A New Edition, most carefully revised and improved. JOHN MURRAY, Albemarle Streht. MAPS Published under the super- intendence of the SOCIETY for the DIFFUSION of USEFUL KNOW- LEDGE, 9^. coloured, Qd. plain, each. The whole of the Maps and Plans have lately been most carefully revised, and all the recent discoveries added. The ATLAS COMPLETE, 161 maps and 51 plans of towns, with index, plain, in 1 vol., half morocco or russia, Ql.lls.- in 1 vol.. half morocco, or russia, coloured, 9Z. 143. The LIBRARY ATLAS, containing Eu- rope, Asia, Africa, America, and Australia, with index, in 1 vol., half morocco or russia, plain, 61. 5s. ; coloured, 71. 7s. The SCHOOL ATLAS, Modem, 21 maps, with index to places, half-bound, plain, 13s. ; coloured, 18s. The INDEX to the MAPS, Atlas size, 55.; in 8vo. cloth, 55. The WORLD, on the GNOMONIC PRO- JECTION, plain, 35.; coloured, 4s. 6(/. GEOLOGICAL MAP of ENGLAND and WALES, fullv coloured bv hand, 55. The STARS on the GNOMONIC PRO- JECTION, plain, 35.; coloured, 65. Six maps, larger size, plain, 155. ; coloured, 1?. I5. ATLAS of INDIA. 20 coloured maps, half-bound, I85. ; circuit leather, I65. ATLAS of NORTH and CENTRAL AMERICA, 19 coloured maps, half-bound, 175. MAP of ENGLAND and WALES, on roller, fully coloured, 12*. The MAP of LONDON, corrected to the present time, price Is. plain ; Is. 6d., coloured , 35. bound in cloth, or 6*. on roller, varnished. A Catalogue, containing the whole of the maps, can be had of all Booksellers. Purchasers can have any of the ilaps in case, on roller, or bound, accordin.c to their order, on applying to the Publisher. G. Cox, 12, King William-street, Straud> and all Booksellers. 18 MURRAY'S HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. MALTA.-EGYPT.-INDIA.-IONIAN ISLES. BS Appointment THE LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTY. H. B. Majesty's Steam Packets, possessing every requisite accommodation for the comfort of passengers, keep up a regular Communication between England and India, vid Marseilles, Malta, and Alexandria, twice a ilontli. These fine Vessels leave Marseilles for Malta on the 9th and 26th. and Malta for Marseilles about the 12th and 24th, performing the passage in about 68 hours. On the 13th one of these Packets is despatched to Alexandria with the India :Mails and passengers, which place she leaves with the Homeward Mail and passengers about the 21st, occupying about 90 hours in the voyage. The Packet for Marseilles waits her arrival, also one of the Peninsular Company's Boats, to convey passengers to England vid Gibraltar, to the 26th. IONIAN ISLES. On the 1st and 13th of each month one of these Packets is despatched to Corfu, vid Cephalonia, Zante and Patras, from whence passengers can proceed to Athens. She remains at Corfu four days, and retm-ns (calling at the above ports) to Malta, arriving on the 10th and 23rd, in time to secure passages to England, via Gibraltar or Marseilles. Freights on Specie in accordance with Admiralty regulation ; 1 per Cent, on Silver, I on Jewellery. Freight on Packages and Parcels may be known on application at the Agents'. Passages, including Wines, a liberal Table, and every Expense. 1st Class. Female Servants. 2nd Class. 3rd Class, if Victualled. 3rd Class, not Victualled. £ s. d. £ s. d. £ s.